Hot air balloon over the Namib Desert, Namibia. Photographer of the Year 2019 entrant.
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It’s back! + fab photos & gregarious giraffes
It’s Friday the 13th! If you’re quaking at the thought, you probably believe that rhino horn cures cancer or that gifting a diamond will bring you love forever. Either way, hakuna matata 😉
Tigers in South Africa’s Great Karoo grassland biome – is this conservation? The 6,100 ha reserve known as Tiger Canyon in the Free State claims to be a conservation program for endangered wild tigers, with ‘various separate territories for the wild tigers and cheetahs to thrive in and survive’, where your game drive vehicle is ‘enclosed to protect you from … the tigers’.
Regarding the cheetahs, the Tiger Canyon website says, ‘walking with them is often possible … this allows photographers to get eye level and low-level shots more easily’. Tiger Canyon has historically provided cheetahs for the Endangered Wildlife Trust’s ongoing efforts to repopulate other reserves in Southern Africa.
Back to my question. Ignoring, if you can, the relatively small size of the reserve and dodgy cheetah monetisation, is breeding tigers outside of their natural range helpful to conservation? Email me here. No haters, please; I am interested in genuine discussion and learning.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
Adventure awaits on these two safaris, which will take you to the heart of the bushveld action. Our travel experts are just waiting to plan your next safari.
Greater Kruger Big 5 photographic safari – 5 days – From $1,865pps
Join award-winning photographer Ernest Porter on a private photographic safari at Pungwe Safari Camp in Manyeleti Game Reserve, Greater Kruger. Ernest will help you capture great photos and learn about every animal and bird spotted. Close encounters, approached to ensure the best shooting angles and lighting, will guarantee your ratio of “keepers”. This safari is limited to 8 guests, ensuring personal attention.
Botswana classic: mobile tented safari – 11 days – From $5,300pps
Head out on a once-in-a-lifetime safari to explore Botswana’s best protected game-viewing areas. Led by experienced guides, you will track lions, leopards, hyenas, cheetahs and wild dogs across dry savannah. Glide silently down meandering waterways in search of glittering birds and spend time with large herds of elephants cavorting in the wide Chobe River. Your hosts will move your mobile tented camp between destinations while you get the most out of your safari.
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Our 2022 Photographer of the Year, Alex Brackx, clinched his title with an image of a zebra’s last seconds of life, capturing a desperate battle for survival – an aspect of life central to our fascination with the wildlife of Africa. We invited the seasoned photographer to share some of his favourite images with the AG tribe. Alex’s portrayals of life on the African savannah will have you reaching for your cameras and longing for time out in the bushveld. See Alex’s gallery in our first story below.
As the tallest animal on Earth, the giraffe does not exactly keep a low profile. Yet, despite a worldwide enchantment with these wonders of evolution, our understanding of their social structures is lacking. But research reveals that giraffes have complex social structures not dissimilar to those of elephants. Read more about the behaviours uncovered in our second story below.
Did you know that the glass frogs in the Americas can make themselves more translucent by sequestering red blood cells in their livers? This removes most of the red colour from the blood, enhancing the effect of the translucent abdominal skin and hiding the muscles and organs. As a result, the frog becomes next to invisible on the leaves of tropical forests, the ultimate camouflage to protect it from predators while it’s sleeping.
The real mystery is how they selectively pool nearly 90% of the red blood cells in one place without triggering a clotting cascade, yet they still clot when injured. The physiological explanation may have profoundly practical applications in human medicine.
📷 Dust off your cameras! 📷
Photographer of the Year 2023 is just around the corner!
We are pleased to announce that entries open on 1st February. You have three months to get your entries in before judging during May and the winners announcement at the end May.
There are cash prizes to the value of $10,000 and an epic safari to Northern Tuli Game Reserve in Botswana up for grabs. Do you have any impressive pics that celebrate Africa? Check out the entry details here and get snapping.
Proudly sponsored by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.
WATCH: What happens when an ostrich and gemsbok come to blows? Find out in this footage of a scuffle between an ostrich trying to protect its chicks and a contentious gemsbok, captured at a waterhole in the Namib Desert, Namibia (04:56). Click here to watch
Our understanding of wild animal behaviour is ever-evolving. Analysis of available research reveals what many experts have been suggesting for decades: giraffe probably have a complex social structure that is not dissimilar to elephants.
Studying the nuances of their social structures is a complex process but is vital to unravelling evolutionary histories and designing effective conservation measures. For most large mammals, we have at least a rudimentary grasp of their social ethology. Yet, despite being one of the largest mammals on earth, the giraffe seems to have flown under the radar for an astonishing amount of time.
Until the 2000s, behavioural ecologists described giraffe as “socially aloof” (Estes 1991). The perception was that their groupings were fluid in nature, with no lasting bonds between individuals. Interpreting their social cues has been further complicated by the subtleties of their communication. Elephants and carnivores, for example, exhibit a range of vocal and body language signals that aid in interpreting the dynamics between individuals. On the other hand, giraffe are largely silent (though they do hum at low frequencies below human hearing) and apparently inexpressive. To this day, giraffe communication systems are poorly understood.
A herd of giraffe cows and calves
In order to investigate giraffe social structure, researchers from the University of Bristol conducted a review of 404 scientific papers on the behaviour and social organisation of giraffe. They aimed to test the hypotheses that giraffe have complex cooperative social systems and that these are matrilineal. In other words, whether or not giraffes form stable groups of females, whether females stay in their natal groups while males disperse and if, within female groups, individuals play a supportive role in raising and protecting calves.
The researchers found that giraffe group sizes usually consist of between three to nine individuals, though lone animals were often recorded. The groups were most likely to be kin (with the strongest association between mothers and grown offspring). In many instances, these associations remained stable for years and often consisted of three generations of related individuals. These matrilineal groups themselves seem to exist in a larger, more fluid society, with groups of related females associating with each other or males within their range. Giraffe mothers have been observed leaving their calves in a creche cared for by another adult. Cows also show distress behaviours following the death of another individual’s calf. These behaviours strongly suggest that giraffe cooperate during breeding.
The authors’ investigation also demonstrated that giraffe spend up to 30% of their lives in a post-reproductive state – similar to humans and some whales, which survive past the cessation of fertility. Female elephants and giraffe are capable of reproducing right up until the end of their natural lives but their fertility declines as they age and the time between successive calves increases considerably. The ‘Grandmother hypothesis’ (a theory that explains this phenomenon) suggests that post-reproductive peak females survive to help raise successive generations. Though this theory has received the usual degree of scientific disagreement, the finding emphasises the potential importance of older giraffe. As seen in elephants, it is possible that these old females are instrumental as repositories of knowledge, which may help giraffe survive times of drought or famine.
With giraffe populations in freefall (see Giraffes: The Silent Extinction), research such as this is essential in designing successful conservation interventions and encouraging the recognition of their levels of intelligence and complexity. Though further research is needed to fully unravel the intricacies of giraffe social structure, it is evident that they are not nearly as simple as once believed. The implications of this newfound understanding extend not just to interpreting the lives of females but also older males. Again, similar to elephants, the bulls may also have an important social role, and their selective removal (such as through hunting or culling) could have far-reaching effects.
As co-author Dr Zoe Muller explains, “Conservation measures will be more successful if we have an accurate understanding of the species’ behavioural ecology. If we view giraffes as a highly socially complex species, this also raises their ‘status’ towards being a more complex and intelligent mammal that is increasingly worthy of protection.”
Alex Brackx’s winning photo of a zebra’s last seconds of life was the first predation photo to win Photographer of the Year. There is something about Alex’s dramatic capture of a split-second in the lives of this cheetah and zebras, locked in a desperate battle for survival, that transcends the many predation photos that AG receives for consideration. “I will remember those last seconds for the rest of my life,” says Alex of his winning Photographer of the Year image.
Alex is a wildlife photographer who started to pursue nature photography in 2010 while travelling in South and Central America. Through further travels in Asia and Europe, he began to hone his craft, travelling to film and take photos of wildlife. For Alex, it is a thrill to photograph his observations of animals, birds, landscapes, jungles, deserts and oceans.
In this gallery, we share a few of Alex’s favourite images. You can see more of Alex’s work on Instagram, Facebook and Youtube, where he regularly shares his images and thoughts.
“A big thanks to Africa Geographic for believing in my pictures and for giving me and my wife the chance to discover Botswana on the Photographer of the Year winner’s trip!” says Alex.
Alex favours his Nikon D5 and Nikon D500 for capturing wildlife, as well the Nikon24-70mm (F2.8), 120-300mm (F2.8), and 500mm (F4.0) lenses.
Lion family in the early morning. I took this photo of a lion family on a beautiful morning in the Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya, in 2022. This family was reunited after two of the cubs had been hiding high up in a tree for a full day and part of the night. I love the colours of this picture. Nikon D5 | 135mm | f/4 | 1/2500 sec | ISO 640Zebra at sunset. I took this photo in Amboseli National Park, Kenya, at sunset. It was winter and the sky wasn’t clear. What I managed to get was this mysterious sunset instead. I loved this moment when the zebras were moving from their feeding places to their ‘night’ places – like a small daily migration. Nikon D5 | 300mm | f/2.8 | 1/1250 sec | ISO 1250Village weaver: a difficult new beginning. I captured this image at Lake Baringo in Kenya while standing up in a small fishing boat. The skills the weavers have for building their nests is simply amazing – especially evident when one watches them starting from scratch. On my five-week journey through Kenya I had the chance to observe many different species of weavers. Nikon D5 | 500mm | f/4 | 1/5000 sec | ISO 1250Photographer of the Year 2022 winning image: Last seconds of life, Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. A mother zebra makes one final attempt to separate her foal from its pursuant – but fails. Nikon D5 | 500mm | f/10 | 1/1000 sec | ISO 640Dwarf mongoose, Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. True to its name, the dwarf mongoose is the smallest mongoose. In fact, it is the smallest African carnivore. I love the mammals that appear when you least expect them. Nikon D5 | 500mm | f/4 | 1/3200 sec | ISO 640Serval hunting. Seeing a serval – let alone photographing one – was one of my biggest dreams before I left for Kenya. On the LAST morning of my stay in the Maasai Mara National Reserve we found one and it was amazing to see this beautiful cat walking through the long grass and hunting. What a moment. Nikon D5 | 240mm | f/2.8 | 1/5000 sec | ISO 640Black-backed jackal. Jackals are one of my favourite animals in Africa. I had a photo in mind the second time I went on a photographic trip to Maasai Mara National Reserve. It took many attempts to capture this: a jackal surrounded by a bouquet of wet grass in the morning. Nikon D5 | 300mm | f/2.8 | 1/2500 sec | ISO 400Evening stroll of a juvenile lion in the last rays of daylight, Maasai Mara, National Reserve, Kenya. This young lion was crawling to the ‘older’ group of lions after his daytime rest. The sunsets on the Mara can be incredibly beautiful and dramatic – I just love it there. Nikon D5 | 280mm | f/5 | 1/400 sec | ISO 2500Speckled mousebird, Lake Elementaita, Kenya. These birds are a very interesting, strange-looking species. Nikon D5 | 500mm | f/4 | 1/1000 sec | ISO 2500African fish eagle hunting. These eagles thrive at the big lakes in central Kenya. This picture was taken at Lake Baringo in 2021. In 2020 Lake Baringo reached its highest level since 1932. Months of sustained torrential rains in 2020 caused this lake in Kenya’s Rift Valley to flood its banks, forcing hundreds of people to flee their homes, hotels and farms. At the time, officials said the immense floods showed the devastating impact of climate change on East Africa. In the summer of 2021, the water level at this lake was still very high. Nikon D5 | 210mm | f/2.8 | 1/8000 | ISO 640Zebra family, Amboseli National Park, Kenya. I was amazed at how strong the bonds of this zebra family were. They kept rubbing themselves against each other, sniffing each other and playing together. Nikon D5 | 300mm | f/5 | 1/800 sec | ISO 1250
Hunting buffalo is so exhausting. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. Photographer of the Year 2021 entrant.
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Safari seasons + African penguins + Mara photographic safari
Sixteen million. That’s how many of you have read the natural history stories on our website during the last decade. Our largest support base continues to be USA and Canada (39%), with African countries coming in second (23%) and UK/Euro just behind at 21%. Thanks for joining us on our journey to celebrate Africa and do good via education.
That’s 16m individuals that have taken on board the science and considered opinions that reflect the complexity and reality of life at ground level here in Africa.
But 16m is not nearly enough, and we have a long road ahead. The misleading versions of African realities peddled by social media algorithms and some mainstream news media continue to receive more attention than ‘boring’ accurate facts. And that, ladies and gents, is the battle ahead. How to keep humankind’s focus on the biological realities and away from agenda-driven misinformation.
You can help by recommending this newsletter to a friend (or three). Help us provide the lens that empowers Africa’s people to protect her biodiversity. Asante sana
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
Bush or beach? We have two exceptional safaris to share this week: a unique option for avid wildlife photographers, and a special offer for the sun seekers:
Maasai Mara specialist photographic safari – 9 days – From US$ 5,100pps
Join award-winning photographer Arnfinn Johansen on this exclusive safari for four guests to Maasai Mara, Kenya. Enjoy use of a modified photographer’s vehicle and off-roading permit – increasing your opportunity for taking truly unique photos.
Zanzibar beach holiday – 8 days – From US$ 3,180pps
This special offer on an 8-day escape to the island PARADISE of Zanzibar will have your toes curling in delight. Spend your days at Elewana Kilindi Zanzibar chilling in a hammock gazing over the ocean, or out snorkelling, kayaking and enjoying the warm azure-blue waters.
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Those blessed to have spent the past festive season on the white beaches of Boulders Beach, Cape Town, can confirm that there are not many creatures as endearing as the tuxedoed African penguin. These endangered birds are well-known for their comical nature, monogamous partnerships and for adapting to life among people where necessary. Read all there is to know about these charming penguins, and the threats they face, in our first story below.
When is the best time to safari in Africa? The African continent encompasses diverse vegetation, climates, topography and animal life – meaning completely unique safaris can be enjoyed at different times of year in varying locations. So where is the best place to go for your safari in the coming months? We’ve put together a guide for your safari in March, April and May. Check it out in our second story below.
Did you know that when Stevenson-Hamilton became warden of the Kruger National Park (then Sabie Game Reserve) in 1902, there were no elephants? Having just spent a few days driving through the park, I found that almost impossible to imagine.
In the 19th century, the Ivory Trail (which ran straight through Kruger) attracted an assortment of larger-than-life hunters and ivory traders, crooks and conspirators. They, along with several wars, denuded the region of most of its elephants. The survivors fled to neighbouring Zimbabwe and Mozambique. Harry Wolhuter (one of the first game rangers of the park) described the return of the first elephants in his memoirs. Today, the Kruger teems with elephants – thanks largely to the devoted rangers who poured sweat, tears and no small amount of blood back into the park to protect them.
I’m not one for resolutions, but going into 2023, I am thankful for those who give hope for the future of our protected spaces and species – be they rangers, scientists or enthusiastic visitors.
ART SAFARI WITH AG
Trudy Duffy recently joined our Greater Kruger art safaris led by professional artist Alison Nicholls in Timbavati Private Nature Reserve and Manyeleti Game Reserve. Read her touching note to teamAG:
I am writing to thank you for organising our art safaris. You stuck with us through challenging times, adapting to new conditions and individualising itineraries. All travel and connections went smoothly. And once in South Africa, you checked in on us to make sure we were safe and satisfied.
These art safaris go beyond looking at animals to “seeing” animals and their environments, as artist strive to do. The variety of wildlife and plant life in such a short time, in such a small space, was incredible, precious and overwhelming. We had the best line of sight and company, and the expertise of our guides and trackers. And Alison was a wonderful, patient, encouraging teacher, leader and artist.
My sketchbook is filled with lines, shapes, impressions
from the animals moving about their lives
My sketchbook reflects my experience at this point
still unformed, rough draft
South Africa, beautiful, complex, teasing, soulful
unfinished
Regards, Trudy
WATCH: Our lives depend on biodiversity, and biodiversity depends on us. But our footprint is threatening it all. Can the human race invent new ways to inhabit our planet – to safeguard biodiversity? A thought-provoking short from UNESCO (01:28). Click here to watch
For most people, “penguin” immediately brings to mind an image of hunched figures huddled together, braced against the icy winds of the long Antarctic night – possibly accompanied by the soothing tones of David Attenborough. It is not a word that conjures the image of tuxedoed little birds sharing their space with bikini-clad summer holidaymakers on the sweltering beaches of South Africa. And yet, that is precisely what thousands of tourists flock to see: the endangered African penguins of the Cape.
The African penguin
The African penguin (Spheniscus demersus) is found on the southwestern coast of Africa in established colonies on 24 different islands and rocks off the Namibian and South African shorelines. While they breed within this range, their presence has been recorded as far north as Gabon and Mozambique. Historically, penguins avoided mainland nesting sites due to the risk of large-animal predation, particularly by leopards, caracals and jackals. However, a burgeoning human population reduced potential threats and kept large predators at bay. As a result, the first trailblazing penguin pairs began to nest on the mainland around forty years ago. Today, the two best-known mainland colonies are in South Africa, one at Boulders Beach in Simon’s Town and the other at Stony Point in Betty’s Bay.
The penguins proved to be quite happy to adapt to life among people, and from one breeding pair in 1985, Simon’s Town now welcomes over 1,000 couples every year. The penguins merrily trundle over beach blankets, walk the town’s streets, nest in gardens and irritably snap sharp beaks at ankles that stray too close to their eggs. Presumably unconcerned by their own celebrity, these charming little characters all but take over the town, attracting droves of visitors eager to observe their Spheniscidae antics.
Members of the African Penguin colony at Boulders Beach in South Africa gather at the water’s edge
Observers are well-rewarded because the penguins are endlessly entertaining. Part of their appeal is that they are easy to anthropomorphise. Their black-and-white markings are positively debonair, and the bare pink patch of skin (which has a thermoregulatory function) gives the impression of cynically raised eyebrows. Touchingly, African penguins are monogamous, often returning year after year with the same partner to raise the next generation as a dedicated team. They are also innately comical. Though webbed feet and flipper wings are perfect for the open seas, they do not make for good land legs, and African penguins are endearingly clumsy when out of the water. Throw in the donkey-like bray of their call (hence the former name, the jackass penguin) and the scene is set for genuine amusement.
Yet as delightful as the tableau of beaches packed with penguins may be, the truth is that African penguins face a sobering future. Their populations are believed to be just 2% of what they were at the start of the 20th century, and a 2019 count yielded a historic low of less than 21,000 breeding pairs.
A pair of penguins groom one another – their black and white markings, and bare pink patch of skin creating a striking image
Quick facts about the African penguin
Height:
60-70cm
Mass:
2.2-3.5kg (males slightly larger)
Social structure:
Monogamous pairs, breeding colonies
Incubation period:
40 days
Conservation status:
Endangered
Fish, feathers and fuzz
The penguins’ decline over the past century can be partly attributed to the horrendous exploitation of their eggs, which were enjoyed as a delicacy by their thousands until the 1970s. However, the population has declined by over 65% in the last twenty years. One of the primary reasons for this is the decrease in prey availability due to climate change and the commercial overfishing of the oceans. African penguins hunt oil-rich pelagic fish species such as sardines and anchovies but are increasingly reliant on squid, octopus, krill and shrimp to supplement their diets.
A food shortage can be particularly detrimental before and after their moulting period. Once every year, adult penguins undergo a so-called “catastrophic” moult. They return to land to replace old and damaged feathers with a new, healthy covering of insulating, waterproof plumage. This process takes two to five weeks, during which the penguin is totally land-bound, dishevelled and understandably cantankerous. Unable to hunt, they will lose 40-50% of their body mass before returning to the water. To survive this ordeal, they must bulk up ahead of time and work hard to recover condition afterwards. And they have to travel further and further to find the food they need.
Once every year, adult African penguins undergo a “catastrophic” moult. During this time, penguins are land-bound (see more pics from Kim Paffen here)
All hands (and flippers) on deck
Complete with a brand-new suit, the next arduous mission can begin. Finding a mate is the first order of business for newly fledged adults (aged four to six) ready to breed for the first time. A suitable partner is wooed by a complex dance of head twisting, bowing and beak tapping. If the seduction is successful, the honeymooners search for a suitable nest site. The pressure on this budding relationship is substantial: if breeding fails for any reason, the penguins waste little time laying blame and separate in search of a new partner.
Unlike their cousins in Antarctica, the African penguins are more concerned with keeping the eggs safe from scorching temperatures and blazing sunlight. The thick layers of guano on the islands provide the perfect nesting material, but sandy depressions, rock crevices, and manmade structures are utilised on the mainland. The best nesting sites (those with ample shade, or a cooling breeze, for example) are at a premium and aggressively defended by those couples fortunate enough to snag them. Penguin pairs that have established a successful nesting site in the past will opt to return to it year after year.
The female will lay one or two eggs, and the couple shares the 40-day incubation period, defending the eggs from seagulls, mongooses, and even other penguins (especially frustrated singles). The tiny chicks hatch as fluffy brown bundles with white bellies, ravenous appetites, and disproportionately prominent voices. Their parents will take turns heading out to hunt, braving tides, rocks and hungry Cape fur seals to return with a massive belly full of fish. It is a dangerous journey, and on occasion, one parent may not return, leaving their now solitary partner to raise the chicks as a single parent.
The first chick to hatch will always be the stronger of two siblings, but unlike birds of prey, penguins often successfully raise two chicks from one clutch. The younger sibling may have to wait for an older brother or sister to leave home before they can monopolise their parents’ attention. However, dwindling food supplies have placed increasing pressure on parental penguins, and under dire circumstances, the second chick may be left to starve.
A growing penguin chick fed on hearty meals of regurgitated fish porridge can fledge in as little as 60 days and join its peers on the beach in a crèche. Here they will gather their courage (and learn the tidal ropes) before setting out for a few years spent predominantly at sea. In the open waters, they will encounter fish for the first time and will have to learn the group hunting techniques practised by the adults. This oceanic initiation claims about 60% of all fledgling penguins. The survivors return to land to moult and grow their adult plumage, complete with a fingerprint pattern of black spots on their white undersides.
The grey plumage of sub-adult African penguins is distinctly different from that of their parents
Between the devil and the deep blue
Unsurprisingly, the beguiling African penguins have won over thousands of ardent fans since they first waddled onto the mainland. Several organisations are working hard to halt the population decline. This conservation work involves everything from monitoring and studying existing colonies to dealing with once-off disaster events like oil spills from tankers.
SANCCOB (the Southern African Foundation for the Conservation of Coastal Birds) takes in around 1,000 birds annually. Abandoned chicks are hand-reared, and sick or injured birds are treated and released back into the wild. In addition, BirdLife South Africa’s African Penguin Conservation project, in partnership with SANCCOB and CapeNature, is working to establish a breeding colony at De Hoop Nature Reserve, with successful breeding milestones already achieved in the project. (You can read more about their project and contribute to this work here.)
Naturally, the African penguin’s most crucial conservation concern is competition with commercial fisheries and subsequent declining fish stocks. Fortunately, the industrial fishing ban around False Bay dating back to the 1980s has dramatically benefited the penguins of both Simon’s Town and Stony Point. A temporary restriction around Robben Island was also shown to improve breeding success rates.
African penguins are under threat due to declining fish stocks
Where and when?
Penguins are usually present and may be encountered year-round at Boulders and Foxy Beaches in Simon’s Town and Stony Point Nature Reserve in Betty’s Bay. However, many adult birds spend their time at sea outside the breeding season. The best penguin viewing starts during the summer (around December), and by April, the breeding season reaches its zenith, and the beaches and surrounds are packed with besuited penguins. In South Africa, most penguins moult between September and January, making this the best time of year to encounter them in various states of déshabillé.
It is important to remember that as comfortable as the penguins are waddling among people, they should be given the appropriate space and respect. African penguins may be cute, plucky, sassy or any other number of anthropomorphic adjectives we can think of, but they are still endangered wild animals. And they have razor-sharp beaks.
African penguins are monogamous, returning year after year with the same partner to raise the next generation as a dedicated team
Mara Triangle Conservancy, Maasai Mara National Reserve
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New year, new adventures 🎊🐘⛺
Our 2023 resolution is to continue to uncover new, responsible safari options and fascinating stories for you – our tribe of passionate travelling conservationists.
This week sees us taking a festive break in the bushveld, but have no fear: we’ll be back with your regular dose of African celebration next week.
If your resolutions for next year include that special African safari, start the discussion now, and we’ll help you plan your epic adventure.
Celebrating the wide open spaces of Africa in the shadow of Mount Ololokwe. Samburu National Reserve, Kenya. Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant.
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Ultimate bush/beach combos + the human population problem
What a ride 2022 has been! Some good, some bad and plenty of freak’n weird stuff :-0
From awe-inspiring images of outer space by the James Webb Space Telescope to Russia invading Ukraine, and gender-fluidity and cancel culture becoming ubiquitous. Then we had SBF and the collapse of Crypto, increasing climate change impacts and the Covid long-tail impacting health and economies. This was indeed a year to remember.
All this against the backdrop of algorithmically fuelled nutters dominating social media ‘engagement’ in the race for advertising revenue while normal, reasoned voices are sidelined. And parents of young kids continue to outsource their core responsibilities to brain-frying mobile phones as humankind marches determinedly towards zombification.
AND YET Africa continues to beat its own drum and be what it is – a gobsmackingly awesome continent, a place to reboot and recover. Expect an announcement by teamAG in Q1 2023 that will deliver more affordable safaris and responsible travel opportunities with demonstrated benefits for Africa’s people and ecosystems.
We have two truly satiating safaris for those wanting to fully immerse themselves in their surroundings.
Kruger wilderness walking safari – 4 days – From US$ 750
Longing to be engrossed in the Kruger wilderness? This one-of-a-kind mobile-camping safari will expose you to the rawness of Greater Kruger. Walk the bushveld with a guide and trackers, while the ground team moves your tented camp to a new location every night. This riveting safari will reconnect you with nature and recharge your batteries.
Art safari with Alison Nicholls – 7 days – From US$ 3,685
Indulge in the bushveld in a new way on this creative safari. Join professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls on this art safari at The Bush House in malaria-free Big 5 reserve, Madikwe – South Africa. Enjoy morning and afternoon game drives and spend time in camp sketching wildlife that visits the active waterhole. Beginner and seasoned artists all welcome!
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Picture your perfect African holiday – are you perched atop a game drive vehicle, sipping sundowners and gazing over a herd of elephants? Or are you stretched out on the white sands of a balmy tropical paradise, whiling away the hours in seaside bliss? Luckily, there’s no need to choose, and a traditional combination of a bush and beach holiday is one of the most popular approaches to the ultimate African adventure. Our first story below is a comprehensive collection of the best combos for your next bush-beach holiday.
A recent study reveals that Africa’s biodiversity is under threat from human population growth, resource exploitation & climate change. Read our second story below on what needs to be done to protect Africa’s biodiversity and prevent the loss of its wild habitats and species.
Here’s wishing the AG tribe a blessed festive season filled with adventure and rejuvenation of the soul!
Given the time of year, it is appropriate to include a suitably festive fact for this week’s newsletter. Unfortunately, African wildlife does not tend to feature heavily in the symbolism of the various holidays being celebrated. So this connection is a bit tenuous…
Did you know that some subspecies of reindeer make a clicking sound when they walk? The sound comes from the movement of tendons over the bones of the fetlock joint. Eland antelope bulls also make a clicking sound, though this emanates from the carpal joint. The weird thing is that while the clicking of reindeer joints is believed to help the herd stay together (in blizzards, for example, and in the absence of Rudolph’s nose), the clicking of eland joints is now theorised to communicate size and social status to potential competitors.
It’s coming…
Photographer of the Year 2023 is just around the corner! Have you got your entries ready? We’re pleased to announce the details, prizes and rules for your 2023 entries. Read more here!
WATCH: Humans and caracals share the city of Cape Town, South Africa: Find out how these adaptable cats survive in a bustling urban environment (01:22). Click here to watch
The traditional combination of a bush and beach holiday is one of the most popular approaches to any trip to Africa – for good reason. Spending time on safari is undoubtedly the perfect balm for the soul. Yet the early mornings and exciting activities of a frenetic safari are best complemented by a few days of relaxing on one of Africa’s magnificent beaches.
But how to choose the best locations? Have a look at our list of the best bush and beach combos.
Greater Kruger, South Africa & the beaches of Mozambique
The Greater Kruger offers some of the best safari experiences on the continent, especially when it comes to seeing the Big 5. With a couple of spectacular sightings under one’s belt, the renowned beaches and azure waters of Mozambique are just a short flight away.
Here visitors can recline on white sands (cocktail in hand) or take to the waters to enjoy the cornucopia of oceanic creatures in the Mozambique Channel. The beaches of Ponta Mamoli remain one of Mozambique’s best-kept secrets, despite their proximity to the South African border, while further afield, the islands of the Bazaruto Archipelago National Park protect some of the country’s rare marine mammals.
(Top) The extensive white beaches of the Bazaruto Archipelago; (bottom) Greater Kruger offers some of the best safari experiences on the continent
KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa
KwaZulu-Natal province is one of South Africa’s most diverse regions, home to myriad habitats and animal life.
KZN offers many wild opportunities for experiencing the bushveld and wild animals, from verdant forests and wetlands to rolling savannas and grasslands. A number of wildlife reserves – including Big 5 parks such as Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park – offer a plethora of wildlife experiences. As an added bonus, its long stretch of coastline is lined by characterful and picturesque beaches with stunning year-round weather. The beaches of iSimangaliso Wetland Park are as wild and private as they come, neighbouring Mkuze Game Reserve offers ample wildlife viewing, and just further south, the Dolphin Coast lines the vibrant beach town of Ballito (with magnificent Salt Rock well worth a visit).
Hluhluwe-iMfolozi is a Big-5 game reserve; Isimangaliso Wetland Park offers wild experiences; Thompsons Bay Beach in Ballito; Diving with an oceanic blacktip shark off the coast of KwaZulu-Natal (Aliwal Shoal)
South Luangwa, Zambia & Lake Malawi, Malawi
Not so keen on the salty residues of the ocean? How better to wash away the dust and ease tired feet at the end of an invigorating walking safari in South Luangwa than in the crystalline waters of a freshwater lake surrounded by palm-tree fringed beaches?
An idyllic beach on the shores of Lake Malawi
Walking safaris in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park offer the opportunity to experience enormous herds of elephants and buffaloes, as well as dazzling leopard sightings. After exploring the park, head to the extensive shoreline of Lake Malawi, with its tiny beach villages, resorts and lodges. The lake offers the adventurous tourist a plethora of opportunities to explore the waters – above or below the azure ripples.
The lengthy white beaches of Lake Malawi (pictures 1-2) are lined with tiny beach villages, resorts and lodges; South Luangwa is a vast wilderness and playground for tourists seeking an authentic safari experience (View more pics from Mandeem Mistry at @tinytrunkphotography)
Not for nothing is this one of Tanzania’s most popular attractions, and electrifying wildlife experiences are all but guaranteed. So, why not dive into the embrace of the Indian Ocean, soak up the resplendent marine scenery and take a few days to reflect on a life-changing vacation in the privacy of intimate Mafia Island? And why not tick an experience with endangered sea turtles off your list while you’re at it?
A trip to the Serengeti – an essential destination for any avid safari-goer – is well complemented by a beach break to Mafia Island (Check out @daniellamborn for more images)
The Tanzania tour: quieter safari circuits and an island paradise
Serengeti and Ngorongoro are spectacular for wildlife viewing, but they are not Tanzania’s only safari fare. Some of the less well-known national parks are equally exhilarating, and they are quieter and kinder on the pocket.
Tanzania offers a robust safari circuit: Ruaha National Park; spotting chimps in Mahale National Park; Katavi hosts robust populations of lions; Selous Game Reserve is one of the continent’s most enormous undisturbed ecosystems
The crystalline waters of Zanzibar beautifully round off a Tanzania safari
Take your pick, Kenya
Ah, Kenya, a country blessed with beauty and wildlife in abundance. Safari options abound in this land of plenty. Take in the iconic scenes framed by Mount Kilimanjaro in Amboseli National Park, search for black leopards in Laikipia County, or revere the giant red tuskers of arid Tsavo East and West National Parks. As if these wildlife delights were not enough, the Kenyan coastline is equally bestowed with impressive holiday destinations, from lively Watamu and Malindi to the more peaceful and reserved Diani and Lamu.
Kenya has much to offer the visitor seeking a diverse array of experiences, including: the majestic elephants of Amboseli; the sandy white stretches of Diani Beach; the otherworldly coastlines of Malindi; the dust-stained wildlife of Tsavo; epic sightings of Laikipia; and the tropical paradise of Watamu
Maasai Mara, Kenya & Seychelles
No visit to Kenya is complete without a stop to appreciate the rolling vistas of the celebrated Maasai Mara at least once. Pack in over a million wildebeest and zebra trundling their way through during the Great Migration, and the scene is set for a once-in-a-lifetime experience deserving of a separate mention. And afterwards, why not travel a little further afield to the glorious islands of the breath-taking tropical paradise of Seychelles?
Combine the romance of the Seychelles (and peaceful Mahé Island as pictured) with the wide plains and epic wildlife sightings of the Maasai Mara
Keep it in the family
Travelling to Africa is an absolute privilege, and many industry and hospitality professionals are dedicated to ensuring that their guests get the most out of the experience. With that in mind, some have opted to run lodges for both bush and beach locations, ensuring high standards for both.
Combine a visit to Thonga Beach Lodge in iSimangaliso Wetland Park with a stay at Rhino Ridge Safari Lodge in Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park
One example is the Isibindi Africa Lodges, including Thonga Beach Lodge on the azure shores of iSimangaliso Wetland Park and Rhino Ridge Safari Lodge deep in the heart of Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park. Alternatively, check out Kambaku Safari Lodge in Timbavati Private Nature Reserve in the Greater Kruger and Kambaku at Sea on the Garden Route of the Eastern Cape coastline.
Visit both Kambaku at Sea and Kambaku Safari Lodge to split your time between the Garden Route and Timbavati
Tintswalo Atlantic, and Tintswalo’s lodges in Manyeleti Game Reserve offer the classic combo between Cape Town and Greater Kruger
It is said that the average person spends around a third of their life working so making the most of holiday time is essential! What are your favourite bush and beach combinations? Share them with us and others by downloading our app and commenting below.
Want to head out on a bush-beach combo safari? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team, scroll down to after this story.
The world is changing – faster than it ever has before. As wealthier countries consume more and Sub-Saharan Africa experiences population growth, what will it take to protect the remaining biodiversity? A new review by several pre-eminent conservation scientists examines future challenges and explains what steps will be necessary to avoid a catastrophic loss of wild habitats and species in Africa.
The authors begin by emphasising the unique importance of sub-Saharan Africa (SSA) in terms of diversity levels and the remaining abundance of large mammals. At present, the continent is home to 25% of the world’s mammal species, 20% of its bird species and “significant reptile and amphibian diversity”. Over 4.3 million km2 is covered by a network of protected areas that conserve landscapes and wildlife of immense value to the local tourism industry and humanity in general. The extensive remaining habitats provide a source of natural capital supporting millions of people, supply vital ecosystem services (carbon sequestering, watersheds and so on) and encompass significant cultural and heritage value.
Yet these remaining landscapes face grave threats from burgeoning human populations, associated agricultural expansion, and increasing demand (both local and global) for resources.
Historical trends have shown that populations undergo what is referred to as “demographic transition”, marked by sharp declines in mortality and fertility rates, resulting in a total shift in demographics. SSA’s transition to lower fertility rates is occurring later and slower than most other continents, and overall childbearing rates are higher. While impossible to predict with any degree of certainty, populations are expected to reach four billion by the end of the twenty-first century. While South Asia, India and China accounted for the most significant population growth during the latter 20th and early 21st centuries, SSA is expected to assume this role during the coming decades.
While much of their review is focused on the human population growth in SSA, the writers also highlight the concurrent impact of consumption rates of high-income countries, which are key drivers of biodiversity loss. This is exacerbated by the geographic separation of consumers and the environmental cost of their consumption. Twenty countries are responsible for 70% of global resource consumption and 74% of the planet’s ecological degradation. In addition, the effects of climate change are expected to place further pressure on socio-economic stability in many SSA countries and increase stress on beleaguered habitats and species.
The writers describe the challenges related to population growth and resource use in detail. However, the upshot is that already-threatened natural areas in SSA are going to experience a period of intense anthropogenic pressure.
The journey to a Green Anthropocene
The Anthropocene is the period when human activities have impacted the environment to constitute a distinct geological epoch. During this time, humans have triggered (and continue to trigger) accelerated environmental degradation, causing the sixth mass extinction in Earth’s history. Yet the authors envisage a scenario several decades in the future that they describe as the “Green Anthropocene”. Here, “human influence remains pervasive but where people prioritise nature conservation and adopt adequate mechanisms to avoid consistent loss of biodiversity, thus achieving coexistence and improved prospects for ecological restoration”. Consequently, the biodiversity that survives the bottleneck of anthropogenic pressure to reach the Green Anthropocene would be expected to have improved conservation prospects. Local and global policy decisions adopted over the next few decades will determine what remains at that point.
The steps necessary to conserve a reasonable portion of SSA’s biodiversity are multifaceted, complex at every level, and described in detail in the review. For a start, population growth is inevitable, but encouraging the achievement of demographic transition could act as a partial brake, offering the opportunity for economic growth, better land-use planning, and meaningful environmental regulation. Universal education will be important in this process, but female empowerment and emancipation will be essential, along with the promotion of family planning and access to contraception.
Land clearing for agricultural use already presents the greatest threat to remaining wildlife species through habitat loss and fragmentation. Viable populations of large mammals need expansive land areas and conserving those remaining already entails considerable challenges. Finding ways of feeding increasing numbers of people without compromising what remains will be essential in the coming decades. Good farming practices with optimum yields should help to ensure that smaller areas are required to supply maximum numbers.
An agricultural landscape in Malawi
The proposed solutions include pursuing global and local sustainability and regulating the exploitation of natural resources by foreign actors. The authors encourage a focus on renewable energy, ecosystem services and tourism, and the pursuit of growth by developing a green economy. The empowerment of communities as stakeholders and decision-makers will be critical to this process, as will encouraging the presence of wildlife as a use for land outside of existing protected areas. Strengthening conservation efforts will require a significant elevation in funding and a focus on creating new protected areas (while still possible) and improving the management of existing ones.
The authors acknowledge that, realistically, some form of “conservation triage” will be needed with expanding human populations. They urge that great care will be necessary to minimise losses and retain critical assets. Ultimately, reintroductions and rewilding will probably be necessary to restore species diversity.
The review warns that “business as usual” will result in the extirpation and extinction of much of SSA’s biodiversity as anthropogenic pressures worsen. The authors call on conservationists to throw their weight behind the empowerment of women, their families, and societies. Further research priorities include the need to understand the drivers behind the relatively large desired family size in SSA; the relationship between human population densities and conservation outcomes; the mitigation of anthropogenic pressures on nature; and to guide the commodification of ecosystem serves to enable benefits to accrue to local stakeholders.
Though couched in formal terms, the urgency and concern of the 15 authors are evident throughout the review. Existing threats to sub-Saharan Africa’s wildlife and natural areas have precipitated significant species and habitat losses. With pressures inevitably set to worsen, time is running out to enact the necessary changes to shepherd the region’s wildlife safely through.
A young mountain gorilla reaches out to the camera on a gorilla trek in Virunga National Park, DRC. Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant.
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Remarkable Virunga + COP19 win or fail?
I promised a summary of the flood of emails in response to my question two weeks ago about whether restricting low-season safari specials to locals is acceptable. So this is what you had to say:
1. Is the practice of offering low-season specials to locals acceptable? Yes – all but a few felt comfortable that this practice increases awareness and improves buy-in by local people of conservation measures.
BUT
2. Foreigners should be offered better low-season discounts than the ‘pay-3-get-4’ packages with caveats and restrictive conditions that are usually available. There was an acceptance that these offers would be priced less favourably than those offered to locals.
AND
3. Most foreigners don’t view themselves as wealthy and consider African safaris expensive, even ‘over-priced’. Safaris are unfortunately often seen as a once-in-a-lifetime experience to save up for and unlikely to be repeated. Most foreign respondents repeated the request for mid-range price options.
I am not surprised at the high level of awareness and big-picture thinking that stemmed from this exercise – you guys rock – but it’s always good to be reminded of how awesome this tribe is.
You have been heard – watch this space …
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
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Maasai Mara migration season safari – 7 days – from US$ 4,190
Experience the Great Wildebeest Migration in Kenya with this carefully crafted itinerary. Stay at Sentinel Mara Camp, perched on the high banks of the Mara River in a cool riverine forest, and explore Musiara Marsh and Paradise Plains – popular for their excellent cat sightings.
Africa’s ultimate primate safari – 8 days – from US$ 4,905
Head out on the ultimate wildlife bucket-list pilgrimage and come face to face with incredible mountain and Grauer’s lowland gorillas, chimpanzees, and golden and pied colobus monkeys. You’ll trek through the forests of Mgahinga National Park, Volcanoes National Park and Nyungwe Forest, and experience Kahuzi Biega National Park. Let us tailor dates and prices to suit your needs.
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Africa’s conservationists and politicians recently wrapped up the 19th Conference of the Parties (CITES CoP19). Our first story takes a deeper look into the future of African wildlife and ecosystems, delving into the debates and most important decisions made on African species at CoP19. Was the conference an overall win for wildlife, or a fail? Read more below.
In our second story we explore the beating heart of Africa: Virunga National Park. This remarkable park is known for hosting a third of the world’s mountain gorillas. Trekking through its rain forests to discover epic primates, and witnessing its fiery magma lava lakes bubble, is a dream of many a traveller. Read more about this magical land of unparalleled biodiversity, and start planning your Virunga adventure.
Not long ago, I saw a woman standing with a bundle of blankets in her arms, looking for all the world like a new mother. Then she flicked back a corner of the blanket and revealed the sleeping face of her pet white tiger cub. I had to walk away before I exploded.
Did you know that the Big Cat Safety Act was recently passed in the United States Senate? It will make its way to President Biden’s desk and become law. People will be prohibited from keeping big cats as pets, and public contact with these animals will be banned.
It is truly a piece of legislation to be celebrated, but I wish the rest of the world – especially South Africa – would catch on faster. People should not be able to wander around with tiny tiger cubs. Indeed, I firmly and unapologetically believe that no wild animal, be it a big cat, otter or chimpanzee, should be kept as a pet.
WATCH: Wish you were here? Check out this serene moment spent savouring the abundant wildlife to be found on safari. AG can take you there – contact us to start the discussion (00:39). Click here to watch
The 19th Conference of the Parties (CITES CoP19) drew to a close on 26 November 2022, after two weeks of intense policy debates. Some have lauded the results as an “overall win for wildlife”, while others decry the intrinsic “neo-colonialism” of CITES regulations. Throughout the conference, debates continued long into the night over an agenda which included 52 proposals to introduce, strengthen or relax trade restrictions for various plant and animal species. The following summarises the most important decisions relating to African wildlife and ecosystems.
At a glance
Eswatini’s (formerly Swaziland) proposal to remove all restrictions on the trade in rhino horn from the country’s rhinos – rejected
Namibia’s proposal to include its white rhino population on Appendix II – accepted only for the trade in live animals for in-situ conservation purposes
Zimbabwe’s proposal to remove several restrictions on the trade in ivory stocks – rejected
Zimbabwe’s proposal to remove restrictions on the trade in elephant leather goods – rejected
Burkino Faso’s proposal to transfer southern Africa’s elephant population from Appendix II to Appendix I – rejected
A moratorium has been imposed on live elephant trade until the next Conference of the Parties in three years
Some 140 threatened tropical timber species will be listed on Appendix II, some with delayed effect. In terms of African species, the protection afforded to African padauk (Pterocarpus soyauxii), pod mahoganies (Afzelia quanzensis) and African mahoganies (Khaya sp.) will take effect in three months.
Pangolins are already subject to the highest trade restrictions available under CITES. Still, all state parties were encouraged to “take all necessary legislative, regulatory and enforcement measures to close their domestic markets for commercial trade”.
Requiem sharks, hammerhead sharks, freshwater stingrays (which together account for approximately 95% of the global fin trade), and guitarfish will be listed on Appendix II
In detail
Rhinos
eSwatini’s proposal to remove all restrictions from the Appendix II listing to enable trade in rhino horn was resoundingly rejected, with 85 votes (126 total) against it. Japan, Botswana, Tanzania, Lesotho and Mozambique supported the proposal, while South Africa abstained from the vote.
Namibia’s proposal to downlist its white rhinos to Appendix II was accepted, albeit with considerable modification from the original proposal. Opposition from the European Union (EU), Uganda and the Central African Republic saw the removal of all references to the trade in horn trophies from legal hunts. Namibia accepted the amendments, and the final result allows for the trade of live animals only for in-situ conservation purposes. Any movement is also limited to the species’ natural and historical range in Africa. The proposal was opposed by Senegal, Kenya, Benin, Niger and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) but supported by Zimbabwe, Botswana, South Africa and China.
Elephants
Zimbabwe’s attempt to remove restrictions on the trade in ivory stocks was robustly rejected, with several West African countries, Kenya, Ethiopia, the EU and the UK arguing that it would effectively reopen the international ivory trade. The DRC, eSwatini, Zambia, Tanzania, Namibia, Botswana and Lesotho supported the amendments. Interestingly, India – once a staunch opponent of the ivory trade – abstained from this vote. Zimbabwe’s second proposal to lift restrictions on the trade in elephant leather for commercial and non-commercial was also rejected despite receiving 53 supporting votes, as the necessary two-thirds majority was not achieved. Their proposal was supported by the DRC, Botswana, Zambia, Namibia and South Africa and opposed by Senegal, Togo, Gabon, Mali and the Republic of the Congo.
Burkino Faso, Equatorial Guinea, Mali and Senegal presented a joint proposal to transfer southern African elephant populations (those in Botswana, Namibia, South Africa and Zimbabwe) from Appendix II to Appendix I. Benin, Togo, Kenya, Niger, Senegal, Nigeria and Burundi supported their argument. This was opposed by South Africa, Botswana, Namibia, and Zimbabwe, with the EU, Tanzania, Rwanda, Zambia, Uganda, Malawi and Japan adding their support. The proposal was rejected with 59 opposing votes.
The contentious issue of the trade of live elephants to areas outside their natural range (particularly from Zimbabwe and Namibia, which both have active markets) resulted in a temporary moratorium on live elephant exports. The elephant range states are expected to deliberate a legal framework for trade by the next Conference of the Parties in three years.
Hippopotamus
Benin and nine other countries presented a proposal to transfer Africa’s common hippopotamus from Appendix II to Appendix I, effectively banning the trade in hippo parts. Zambia, eSwatini, South Africa, Zimbabwe and Mozambique argued against the proposal, suggesting that it was not based on scientific data and that trade in hippo parts does not threaten their hippo populations. The EU’s suggestion to amend the proposal to set a quota for various countries was accepted. Regardless, the entire proposal was ultimately rejected, splitting the vote 56 for and 56 against (and without reaching a two-thirds majority).
Final thoughts
The mandate of the CITES treaty is enormous, devoted to regulating the trade of not just iconic mammal species but thousands of plant, amphibian, reptile and fish species. It is inevitable that the various outcomes of a Conference of the Parties are going to be met with condemnation or celebration, depending on the context. A complete full summary of the votes for each proposal can be found in the Summary Records of CITES CoP19. It is interesting to note that the African countries presented a far from united front at the conference. Indeed, the division between SADC countries (South Africa, Botswana, Namibia, and Zimbabwe in particular) and the rest of the countries appears more pronounced than ever.
There is a place in the heart of Africa where glacier-tipped mountains tumble down into steamy rain forests, where fiery lava lakes bubble, and savannas and grasslands stretch as far as the eye can see. It is an extraordinary park steeped in a history of tragedy and heroism: primordial and viscerally wild. A land of unparalleled biodiversity and exceptional beauty, bursting with life of every form. It is Virunga National Park in DRC, and it is remarkable.
Virunga National Park
The oldest national park in Africa, Virunga National Park covers nearly 8,000km2 (800,000 hectares) – an area roughly three times the size of Luxembourg. It conserves a diversity of habitats that surpasses any other park on the continent and is tucked along the eastern boundary of the Democratic Republic of Congo, protecting the eastward extremity of the Congo Basin. Virunga is part of the Albertine Rift (the western branch of the East African Rift) and stretches from the snow-covered peaks of the Rwenzori Mountains in the north to the Virunga Massif in the south.
The Rwenzori Mountains; rain forest on the slopes of the Virunga Mountains; a hippo wallows in the marshes of Lake Edward; the famous mountain gorillas of Virunga. You can follow Christy Bennie on Instagram
The 300km-long park is divided into three primary sectors: northern, central, and southern, which together combine to protect an astonishing array of landscapes from alpine vegetation and montane forests to lava plains and wetlands. The most visited section is the southern sector, dominated by dense montane forests home to a vital population of Africa’s remaining mountain gorillas. While many of the gorillas sensibly prefer to reside on the slopes of the dormant Mikeno volcano, the southern section is also the location of the two active volcanoes in the park – Mount Nyiragongo and Nyamuragira. Here, Virunga reaches Lake Kivu and borders Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda and Mgahinga National Park in Uganda. Together, these three protected areas form the core of the Greater Virunga Ecosystem.
The central sector is centred around the banks of Lake Edward. It includes the Rwindi plains and the Ishasha River valley, and is contiguous with Uganda’s Queen Elizabeth National Park to the east. This savannah-like section offers the best chance to spot the more “traditional” safari animals, including elephant, lion, and buffalo. The northern sector is characterised by the dramatic Rwenzori Mountains, with sharp peaks and plunging valleys that descend to the Semuliki River valley. This picturesque part of the park adjoins the Rwenzori Mountains and Semuliki National Parks in neighbouring Uganda.
Vegetation in the Rwenzori Mountains; plant life on the slopes of Mt Bisoke and Mt Karisimbi; a baby mountain gorilla photographed in the national park; giant groundsels in the rain forest on the slope of Mt Karisimbi; dense vegetation growing along the slopes of the Virunga Mountains
The magic of Virunga
Virunga is a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its spectacular biodiversity, with over 2,000 plant species, 706 bird species, and nearly 200 reptile and amphibian species. The park is also home to a diverse array of fauna and flora, including over 200 mammal species and a third of the world’s remaining mountain gorillas. Even the air is redolent with the scent of rich soil, and intrepid visitors find themselves besieged by butterflies and ebrious with delight at the natural life on show. Throw in nocturnal displays of volcanic ambivalence, and the Virunga experience is far beyond the average escape from the humdrum of city life – it is an exhilarating embrace of everything that makes Africa truly wild.
The natural beauty of Virunga represented by an eastern blue mother-of-pearl butterfly
Gorillas on the mountain
Virunga owes its existence, at least in part, to the presence of the endangered (once critically endangered) mountain gorillas. Today, they are probably the park’s most famous residents. Mountain gorillas (Gorilla beringei beringei) are a subspecies of the critically endangered eastern gorilla, and there are believed to be just over 1,000 remaining. Approximately one-third of the world’s population is found in Virunga National Park (the remainder is divided between Volcanoes, Mgahinga and Bwindi Impenetrable national parks in neighbouring Rwanda and Uganda). Described by the Virunga park authorities as the Congo’s “real treasure” (rather than oil or metals), there are believed to be over 300 of these precious primates within the park. Of these, nine gorilla families have been carefully habituated over the last thirty years. Every family comes with its dynamics, characters and stories, and the rangers have kept track of it all – you can read more about their histories and present breakdown here.
Mountain gorillas making a noise in the forest
Every morning, rangers set out at the crack of dawn to track down and monitor their charges, and by the time guests have stirred and downed their first coffee, many families have already been located. After stringent health protocols (to avoid passing human pathogens to the immunologically naïve gorillas) and a trek through thick vegetation, small groups of visitors are afforded the life-changing opportunity to spend an hour in the company of these gentle giants. As anyone who has ever spent time with gorillas will tell you, it is an experience that defies words and borders on sacred. There is something about the familiarity of their facial expressions, their familial bonds and the calm, contained power that makes gorilla trekking unlike any conventional animal encounter.
The connection between man and gorilla can be further explored at the Senkwekwe Centre, the only mountain gorilla orphanage in the world. Here dedicated keepers have raised the young survivors of anthropogenic cruelty (poaching and snaring), as well as rehabilitating eastern lowland gorillas. The orphanage is named for a silverback killed in a devastating poaching incident in 2007 that claimed the lives of seven members of the Rugendo family. It is headed by André Bauma, a man who has become almost as famous as his gorilla charges. Bauma’s love for his primate “family” endeared him to the audiences of the Oscar-nominated film, Virunga. He even attended the Oscars ceremony in Los Angeles.
The fascinating mountain gorillas of Virunga
The mammals of Virunga
Mountain gorillas aside, Virunga’s great ape collection also includes eastern lowland gorillas (Grauer’s gorillas – Gorilla beringei graueri) and chimpanzees. Park officials are in the process of habituating the chimpanzees, and accompanying the habituation teams is another of the activities on offer in the park. In contrast to the relatively sedate gorilla trekking, chimp habituation more often than not involves an adrenaline-filled race through the forest to keep up with our arboreal relatives. The Grauer’s gorillas consist of a handful of individuals isolated to the inaccessible Mount Tshiabirimu region of the park.
While the apes may be the stars, the supporting cast of around 19 smaller primate species is deserving of a special mention. Chattering troops of flamboyant eastern black-and-white colobus monkeys frequent the lodges while the booming calls of De Brazza’s monkeys echo through the valleys.
There are four recognised subspecies of the African buffalo in Africa and two of these – the Cape and forest – are found in Virunga. Some biologists even believe that a fifth subspecies, called the mountain or Virunga buffalo, should be recognised. In addition to buffalo, the plains support several ungulates, including topi, Ugandan kob, waterbuck, warthog, and red river and giant forest hog. These, in turn, keep the lions of the park suitably satiated. Together with Queen Elizabeth National Park, Virunga is considered by the IUCN to be a “Lion Conservation Unit”. It is also a vital elephant habitat, as evidenced by the unexpected migration of nearly 600 elephants from neighbouring Queen Elizabeth at the end of 2020. Massive pods of hippo lurk around the shallows of Lake Edward and wallow in the various rivers, and bongo antelope have been spotted in the park’s northern reaches.
The park is a crucial habitat for giant and tree pangolin, crested porcupine and even Lord Derby’s scaly-tailed squirrel (a rodent with a very similar design to flying squirrels). However, another creature is arguably Virunga’s (and Africa’s) most peculiar offering. The okapi is the closest known relative to the giraffe and looks very much as though someone crossed a zebra, antelope, and giraffe. Okapis are endangered, and there are probably only a few thousand remaining. While sightings of these animal oddities in Virunga are few and far between, they were spotted in the northern sector before the arrival of the militia.
An eastern lowland gorilla and baby; a black-and-white colobus monkey; a pod of hippos in the shallows of Lake Edward; de Brazza’s monkey can also be seen in the park
The birds of Virunga
As might be expected in a park that encompasses such a large variety of habitats, the birding can be described as extraordinary. However, extraordinary doesn’t even begin to cover it. With a checklist of 706 different species, there are more birds in Virunga than in the entire United States of America. Furthermore, a substantial number of these are Albertine Rift and Congolese endemics. Notable species include the prehistoric-looking shoebills, dashing Rwenzori turacos, mind-blowingly cryptic African green broadbills, and bizarre red-collared mountain babblers whose closest relative forages the slopes of Mt Jupe in Cameroon. There are melodic Kivu ground thrushes, mythical Grauer’s cuckooshrikes and yellow-crested helmetshrikes, mysterious Albertine owlets and ghostly Congo Bay owls, dazzling purple-breasted and Rockefeller sunbirds, raucous white-headed woodhoopoes, dainty Rwenzori batises, data deficient and endangered Itombwe nightjars, Prigogine’s greenbuls, Kungwe apalises, Grauer’s swamp warbler and golden-naped weavers. And last, but not least, the heart-stopping, utterly gorgeous and mysterious Shelley’s Crimsonwing, which has never been photographed other than when netted during biodiversity surveys.
Virunga means volcano
The name “Virunga” comes from the Kinyarwanda word “ibirunga”, which means “volcanoes”. The Virunga Mountains that mark the southern sector of the park consist of eight major volcanoes, most of which are dormant. The two active volcanoes in the range – Mount Nyiragongo and Mount Nyamuragira – are in Virunga National Park, and both reach heights of over 3,000 metres. Visitors who brave the climb to the summit of Mt. Nyiragongo are rewarded with a view of the world’s largest lava lake as it churns and bubbles. This sight is at its most impressive at night, so most opt to camp on the rim of the crater.
However, this is no idle volcano. Nyiragongo has erupted over thirty times since the end of the 19th century. The most recent eruption occurred in 2021 and had catastrophic consequences for the human residents of the city of Goma. Fortunately, stalwart sightseers can rest assured that the volcano’s moods are carefully monitored lest it decides to let loose its fury of molten lava.
Mist envelopes the Virunga Mountains; rain forest along the slopes of Mt Karisimbi; a young mountain gorilla; a once-in-a-lifetime experience peering into the raging lava lake of Mt Nyiragongo; a view over the Virunga mountains; the picturesque Virunga National Park landscape
War and peace
Despite the global call for protected areas to cover 30% of the earth by 2030, there are still many parks and reserves where the future hangs very much in the balance. Virunga National Park is one such park, still tumbling in the currents of war, political instability, poverty, and disease. Though the full history of the park (and the DRC) is beyond the scope of this celebration of Virunga, no coverage would be complete without mention of both the challenges and efforts involved in keeping it safe.
For decades, the people of the DRC have struggled through war and instability that has killed millions of people. As is inevitable, this tableau of human suffering has spilt over into the conservation of the country’s natural resources, and Virunga has found itself in the middle of countless conflicts. Though valiant efforts were made to protect the park, the end of the 20th century saw much of the park’s wildlife massacred almost to the point of extinction. In 2007, the mass killing of the Rugendo family of gorillas catapulted the park’s plight onto the world stage, and the global attention spurned increased funding and conservation measures. The 2008 partnership between the Congolese National Parks Authority (ICCN) and the Virunga Foundation marked a turning point in the park’s history.
The past 14 years have been far from plain sailing, and the park has suffered its fair share of losses, particularly of the brave rangers dedicated to protecting the park. Oil exploration by an English company only added to threats facing the already beleaguered park. However, taking one taxing step at a time has paid off. The mountain gorillas have increased from fewer than 70 to over 300 in ten years and hippos from 300 to over 2,000, while elephant and lion sightings are now a fairly regular occurrence. Tourism facilities were developed and improved, and a trickle of intrepid visitors gradually turned into a steady stream of people looking to experience one of Africa’s most incredible destinations. (For more on the conservation and social developments by the Virunga Alliance, have a look at their website.)
Explore & Stay
Though there are innumerable reasons to want to visit Virunga National Park, the potential insecurity in the region is of concern to many prospective visitors. Naturally, the park authorities are aware of this, and they take the safety of their guests extremely seriously. The park is periodically closed when they feel that the situation on the ground is such that security cannot be guaranteed. This may also be done to protect the highly susceptible apes from human diseases like Covid-19. The best way to establish the state of affairs and what activities are on offer is to chat to the Africa Geographic travel team, who are in constant communication with Virunga’s park authorities and regularly send intrepid travelers to the area when it is safe to do so.
There are a couple of different lodges scattered throughout the park, and the choice of activity (gorilla treks, Lava treks up Nyiragongo, game drives and so on) will determine the best place to stay. Most visitors opt to rotate through the different options. Ultra-luxury is not the order of the day in Virunga, but there are high-end accommodation options, and all the camps are comfortable. Each offers a different view of the lush vegetation and exquisite vistas. Tourism remains a cornerstone of the park’s conservation efforts, and to that end, all of the lodges within the park are non-profit, with all proceeds fed back into keeping the park protected.
Though Virunga is accessible year-round (if open to visitors), the best time to visit is during the drier months, from June until September or December until February. However, wet seasons are a good option for those with a pair of solid, waterproof boots looking to take advantage of the low-season discounts. Most visitors access the park via Rwanda and pass through the border at Goma.
Valiant Virunga
Virunga is a biodiversity spectacle but is also a testament to the courage of those that have fought and often given their lives in its defence. In this near-forgotten corner of Africa, adventurers, soul-seekers, and naturalists will find an electrifying celebration of life at its most raw – a kaleidoscope of nature’s wonders and a living history of human and wild resilience.
Want to go on a safari to Virunga? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team, scroll down to after this story.
Learn more about Dodo Bahati, a project supporting anti-poaching efforts in Virunga National Park.
Learn more about the Okapi Conservation Project, a project working to protect these unique mammals in the DRC, as well as the forests and creatures of Okapi Wildlife Reserve.
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Kruger’s declining rhinos + malaria-free safaris
I recently watched a live online trophy-hunting debate that was so boring, so devoid of intellectual fact-based to-and-fro that I wondered about the point. Two respected people at opposite ends of the spectrum said their say and answered a few canned questions. Then the show ended. Have we progressed to the point where fear of the easily-offended has cancelled the very essence of debate as a tool for learning?
Meanwhile, here at my home on the Greater Kruger border, the early rains have been promising but not spectacular. Dung beetles are out and about rolling balls of treasured poo, cuckoos are frantically calling, and scorpions are emerging from their burrows. And a second batch of dark-capped bulbuls has fledged successfully from a nest inside our front door porch. Life is good.
Finally, I received a veritable avalanche of emails responding to the question I posed last week about whether restricting low-season safari specials to locals is fair – thanks for that :-). The feedback was immensely valuable for teamAG, and I will soon write a summary of your responses. Watch out for it on our website, app and in next week’s newsletter.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
We have two transcendental safaris on offer that will immerse you in the wonders of the African bushveld – for the ultimate escape from the every-day mundane.
Southern Africa mega safari – 19 days
Be prepared to be swept off your feet with wall-to-wall wildlife action with this iconic southern African safari. You’ll visit Greater Kruger, Cape Town and the winelands in South Africa; Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park in Botswana; and Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe – for an epic, once-in-a-lifetime adventure.
Desert & delta – 11 days
This iconic safari is about water – or the lack thereof. Depending on which package you select, this safari ranges from the majestic Victoria Falls to the watery wilderness of the Okavango Delta, from the predator-rich northern Botswana floodplains, to the remote Central Kalahari and desolate salt pans.
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Every year we dig deep to find out how many rhinos remain in Kruger National Park – which hosts the world’s largest wild rhino population. And our findings this year again reveal more bad news: despite increased security and back-breaking work by the boots on the ground, Kruger’s rhino populations continue to decline at an alarming rate. Read more about the latest rhino stats in our first story below.
Are you planning your next safari but you’re concerned about the risk of malaria infection? Never fear! There are plenty of malaria-free destinations that offer the traditional luxury safari experience. Plus, many of these options offer sightings of the Big 5. We’ve put together a list of our favourite malaria-free safari spots in our second story.
Every year as the excitement of the festive season reaches fever pitch, South Africans are treated to the ethereal sight of our annual butterfly migration. Countless numbers of brown-veined white butterflies (Belenois aurota) fill the skies over fields and between high-rise buildings, delicately flapping their way towards Mozambique. For “influencers”, it is an Instagram goldmine, and for the rest of us, a joyous celebration of a timeless natural marvel.
But did you know that this year, the butterflies arrived in Johannesburg earlier than ever recorded? What makes the threat of climate change so insidious is that many of the changes are subtle, practically invisible – except to those paying attention. Is this early arrival attributable to climate changeor just seasonal variation? That isn’t an easy question to answer but phenologists worldwide are tracking these biological milestones with considerable concern. Because it’s not just the butterflies…
WATCH: AG project partner Wildlife ACT recently worked with WWF South Africa, Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife and others to translocate four orphaned black rhinos into their new home at Babanango Game Reserve. Check out this unique footage of the intricate work involved in translocating and protecting rhinos (04:21). Click here to watch
Travelling to most African countries carries some risk of malaria infection – something that should always be taken into consideration when visiting. Though a few simple precautions can mitigate the risk of contracting malaria, there are those who, for various reasons, prefer not to take the chance at all. Fortunately, South Africa offers a plethora of malaria-free destinations – without sacrificing the luxury safari experience. Plus, many of these destinations offer sightings of the Big 5 – Africa’s must-see checklist including elephant, lion, leopard, buffalo, and rhino. Have a look at our list of favourite malaria-free safari destinations:
Pilanesberg National Park
Situated at the centre of an ancient caldera of a long-extinct volcano, the Pilanesberg National Park is visually striking and bursting with life around every corner. The reserve is found in the transition zone between the Kalahari and Lowveld, making it an ecologically rich area offering thrilling wildlife viewing in picturesque surrounds.
A young male surveys his promised kingdom at the foot of the Pilanesberg mountain range
The park offers a wide variety of accommodation options, from camping and budget accommodation to luxury lodges. At 550km² in size, there is ample terrain to be explored and a diverse road network (of more than 200km) which can be explored.
A diverse range of animal species native to southern Africa can be found here, including the Big 5 and more than 360 species of birds. The reserve is just two hours drive from Johannesburg and is perfect for intrepid explorers wanting a self-drive experience.
Pilanesberg offers the best of many worlds – luxury and budget accommodation, guided game drives or self-drive options, and a high concentration of wildlife
Madikwe Game Reserve
Nestled against the border of Botswana on the fringes of the Kalahari, magnificent Madikwe is one of South Africa’s top safari destinations – malaria-free or otherwise. The exclusive Big-5 reserve teems with iconic and unusual wildlife, offering the opportunity for spectacular animal encounters and striking photography. As Madikwe is not open to day visitors, safari experiences are very personal – whether from the back of a vehicle or the back of a horse.
There is a range of camps and lodges to choose from, from high-end luxury to family or budget-friendly options, and, importantly, community-owned and run lodges that see profits going directly to community members.
Elephants gather around the waterhole at sunset
The malaria-free aspect of the reserve makes it an ideal attraction for families travelling with young children. It is also easily accessible from Johannesburg. Madikwe’s game viewing is at its best during the winter months – the dry season – as the animal life congregates near available water (often at lodges).
From decadent safaris to down-to-earth, family-oriented comfort, the Madikwe experience is a classic, guaranteed to enthral.
Madikwe offers Big-5 viewing on the fringes of the Kalahari
The Waterberg
The Waterberg region in northern South Africa is considered one of the country’s best-kept safari secrets. It is a land of rugged beauty, with imposing rock formations and mountainous massifs shaped by aeons of water erosion. Its bushveld, savannah and riparian habitats are home to abundant wildlife. The area is known for its archaeological findings dating back to the Stone Age. With its diverse mix of private lodges and budget accommodation, the Waterberg is an escape for nature lovers, history buffs and adventurers alike.
Marakele National Park in the heart of the Waterberg Mountains hosts the Big-5, far from the crowds
The growing tourism industry supports Marakele National Park and several private Big 5 reserves, such as Welgevonden Game Reserve. Marakele is located in the transitional zone between the dry western and moister eastern regions of South Africa, allowing for a remarkable variety of wildlife and biodiversity – including fynbos growing in the mountainous areas of the park. A moderate and pleasant climate ensures an enjoyable stay, with summer rainfall keeping the worst heat at bay. Rare yellowwood and striking cedar trees, grand mountains, and Cape vultures soaring through the skies make Marakele a bush experience unlike any other.
A buffalo on the Ant Collection’s private reserve near Vaalwater, Waterberg. See more images from @andrewyatesphotography here
Addo Elephant National Park
As the name suggests, Addo Elephant National Park is an elephant lover’s nirvana. As part of the national park falls along the coast, it is also the only place in Africa where visitors can encounter the ‘Big 7’, which includes the typical Big 5 assortment plus dolphins and whales.
Addo covers five of the country’s eight vegetation zones, so the biodiversity on display is staggering, accompanied by sweeping vistas and accommodation options to suit most budgets.
Addo covers five of the South Africa’s vegetation zones, and is the only place in Africa where visitors can see the ‘Big 7’ – the ‘Big 5’ plus dolphins and whales
The private reserves of the Cape
The southern and Eastern Cape are peppered with private game reserves – many of these featuring the Big 5 – where guests are granted a more exclusive experience than a national park. The Cape offers magnificent mountains, famous coastlines, and spectacular seaside scenery (also wine for the oenophiles), with a mosaic of fascinating habitats and protected spaces inland offering unique wildlife viewing.
Here visitors can experience all the best aspects of safari against the backdrop of some of South Africa’s most breathtaking, lush scenery. As a bonus, the many delights of Cape Town – from Table Mountain to penguins – are just a stone’s throw away (relatively speaking)!
Samara Karoo Reserve is one of the Cape’s exclusive and fascinating private reserves
Tswalu Kalahari Reserve
Words fail to do justice to the sense of inner peace that descends when looking out across the vast vistas of the green Kalahari. Beneath the everyday sounds of chirruping geckos and melodious bird songs, the depth of the silence is a balm for the world-weary soul. Though no elephants are wandering Tswalu Kalahari Reserve, other members of the Big 5, wild dog (painted wolf) and cheetah are all present. However, the reserve is most famous for its assortment of rare and unusual wildlife offerings like habituated meerkats, roan and sable antelope, aardvark, pangolin, brown hyena and aardwolf.
Tswalu, the gem of the Kalahari, is known for rare and unusual wildlife offerings
A note on “malaria-free”: the above list includes South African destinations only, as much of the country is officially considered malaria-free. While there are several regions within Southern Africa where the risk of transmission during the dry season is negligible, they are still considered by the World Health Organisation to be malaria-risk areas.
Want to go on a malaria-free safari? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team, scroll down to after this story.
The latest stats from SANParks reveal an ongoing decline in rhino numbers
There are now an estimated 2,250 white rhinos remaining in Kruger – a 79% reduction since 2011. The estimated black rhino population now stands at 208 – a 50% reduction since 2013.
The SANParks Annual Report 2021/2022 confirms that rhino populations in the Kruger National Park have continued to decline, with a loss of 14.7% of white rhinos over the reporting period. However, black rhino populations were estimated to have increased by 2.9%.
Unlike previous Annual Reports, the 2021/2022 Report does not provide population estimates for either white or black rhinos within the park. However, Dr Sam Ferreira, Large Mammal Ecologist for SANParks and the Scientific Officer for the African Rhino Specialist Group, has confirmed the 2021 estimates for Africa Geographic. There were an estimated 2,250 (between 1,986 and 2,513*) white rhinos in Kruger in September 2021, compared to the 2,607 (between 2,475 and 2,752), counted in September 2020. For black rhinos, the 2021 survey estimated 208 (between 160-255) black rhinos occurring in Kruger, with confidence intervals overlapping the 2020 estimate of 202 (between 172 and 237). Ferreira confirmed that the results of the 2022 census are still being analysed.
*Editorial note: All population estimates are given a margin of error, as population counts over large areas carry inherent uncertainty. When calculating the percentage decline/increase, these margins of error are included in the statistical analysis.
The white rhino population in Kruger National Park continues to decline, while black rhino populations have seen a slight increase
The 2021/2022 Report confirms that 195 rhinos were poached in the Kruger National Park in 2021, a decrease from 247 in the previous year. (The most recent statistics from the Kruger National Park suggest that 82 rhinos were killed in the park in the first six months of 2022.) No rhinos have been lost in other SANParks-operated parks, namely Addo Elephant, Karoo, Mountain Zebra, Mokala, Mapungubwe and Marakele National Parks. These rhino populations have increased by 6.2%, and populations of south-western black rhinos (Diceros bicornis bicornis) outside of the Kruger have exceeded growth performance targets.
The Annual Report indicates that a new Rhino Strategy has been developed, focusing on “achieving thriving, growing rhino populations of a minimum size; and resilient communities across all stakeholders owning, valuing and benefitting from rhinos in a safe environment”. This will include strategic dehorning, range expansion and establishing “insurance populations”. Eight hundred and five rhinos have been dehorned in the Kruger National Park between 2021 and 2022, with a focus on cows and core protection zones. The report also references the establishment of rhino “strongholds” outside of the Kruger National Park to serve as sources for re-introductions in the long term.
However, as increased security and plummeting rhino numbers have made poaching more challenging in Kruger, there has been a concerning shift in focus to KwaZulu-Natal in South Africa, where nearly 200 rhinos have been killed this year alone (mainly in Hluhluwe iMfolozi National Park), and to Namibia and Botswana.
Although the reduced poaching statistics are due primarily to there being fewer wild rhinos remaining, there is no question that the back-breaking work of passionate and dedicated SANParks employees is also a factor, and those that have contributed should be lauded for their efforts
Publicly available resources
The statistics on white and black rhinos can be found on pages 28/29 of the 2021/2022 SANParks Annual Report, while the details of conservation efforts present and future are on pages 52/53.
Silhouetted fishermen in a mokoro at sunset. Chobe, Botswana Photographer of the Year 2020 entrant
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Trek with tuskers + empowering women + we’re hiring
So I have a question
But first, this: Thanks to every one of you for being in our tribe; it’s an honour to share Africa’s awesomeness with you. And a very special note of thanks to those who travelled with us this year. As a social enterprise focusing on doing good for Africa’s wild spaces and her people, we rely entirely on revenue generated from safaris to pay our not-insignificant costs. Remember to start planning your 2023 safari now. After more than 30 years in the safari business, we know what, where and when – but space at Africa’s greatest prime season experiences is often limited as increasing numbers of people yearn to reconnect. Safari njema, good people.
Now, to my question: Is it ok to offer safari discounts to local people?
As you know, we are currently offering huge discounts (up to 75% off) at Botswana’s top lodges over the next few months – but only for SADC residents.
Look, let’s not mince words here; going on safari is a leisure option only affordable to a small minority of humankind. What we are talking about is a strategy by lodge owners to widen the net slightly to allow relatively well-heeled locals a brief glimpse into an otherwise unattainable paradise and to earn at least some revenue to cover costs over an otherwise very slow seasonal period for tourism – staff salaries and anti-poaching being amongst the highest overheads.
Please let me know your considered opinion. Comment below if you are reading this on our app; otherwise, email me to share your thoughts.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
Affordable Madikwe – 4 days – US$870
See the Big 5 in a malaria-free reserve in South Africa. Madikwe Game Reserve is a prime safari location – only a stone’s throw from the Botswana border – offering excellent wildlife viewing in one of the country’s most diverse ecosystems. It’s no wonder this is one of our most popular safaris.
Cape Town and Khwai – 9 days – US$2,940
A treat for the safari connoisseur. We’ll romance you with the Mother City’s hip restaurants, white beaches, historic wine estates and iconic landmarks. Then, we’ll whisk you off to Botswana – where you’ll be bewitched by the ebb and flow of the Okavango Delta’s life-giving floodwaters in Khwai.
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Kenya’s Tsavo National Park is the best place to see tuskers – the last remaining giant elephants still roaming our world. But did you know you can experience this national park on foot, following in the tracks of Tsavo’s giants? Norman Owen-Smith set out on the 100-mile (160km) Great Walk along the Tsavo River with AG. Read about his journey in our first story.
Our second story is a powerful piece on the realities facing women living in Africa’s rural and conservation areas. These women are particularly vulnerable to crises, due to low job security and discrimination. In a post-pandemic landscape, empowering women in the tourism sector is helping communities recover, contributing to economic empowerment. Read more below.
Experts estimate that 30-50% of the global human population has been exposed to a microscopic parasite called Toxoplasma gondii. This protozoan can only complete its sexual lifecycle in felid hosts, yet infection of other hosts precipitates a wide range of aberrant behaviours. Behaviours that seem to serve the parasite well.
For example, infected hyena cubs are more likely to be killed by lions. Similarly, exposed chimpanzees have an increased risk of encounters with big cats and rats are attracted to cat urine. Now, did you know that scientists have just discovered that Toxoplasma also appears to impact wild wolf behaviour? In this case, it doesn’t seem to make them more likely to “sacrifice” themselves to the nearest hungry cat. Instead, infection with the protozoan makes them 46 times more likely to become a pack leader – potentially affecting the dynamics of an entire pack.
And its behavioural effects on humans? Hotly debated, but it is simultaneously terrifying and fascinating to wonder at the potential influence of this all-but-invisible force of nature.
We’re hiring!
Attention marketing fundis! AG is looking for a Marketing Manager to join our team. If you’re a hands-on digital marker with a passion for travel and conservation, and want to make a real difference in Africa, this is for you. Check out the full job specs here…
Women in rural Africa are vulnerable to crises. Empowering women in tourism aids economic recovery in a post-Covid landscape
In rural conservation landscapes in many African countries, women play prominent roles in developing resilient communities. Although they are often at the very centre of the household, the heart of local communities, and the frontlines of nature stewardship, women in Africa are also particularly affected during crises, as their access to income is less secure. They also shoulder the burdens of daily life.
Surviving the pandemic
For Zambian wildlife officer turned conservation research technician Anety Milimo, COVID-19 came like a thief in the night. She knew it was out there, but not that it would take lives, jobs, and resources from her community. As a mother, she knows the demands of being a provider and caregiver. “And I’ll be frank with you, women were affected most,” says Anety.
“Having more women as front liners in tourism and conservation, especially in community and conflict situations, will benefit everyone because we are tenacious and diplomatic,” says Anety Milimo
According to the UN Women Policy Brief, COVID-19, and the Care Economy (2021), women shouldered the additional explosion of unpaid care due to discriminatory gender roles and stress on vulnerable health systems. Yet, Anety observed, women were often the first to lose their incomes from jobs deemed ‘non-essential’ when the pandemic struck.
Globally, women lost more than 64 million jobs in 2020 – a 5% loss, compared to a 3.9% loss for men. The impact of this economic crisis means that an additional 47 million women worldwide were expected to fall into extreme poverty, living on less than US$1.90 a day in 2021. According to a recent UN report, Advancing Women’s Economic Empowerment in the Tourism Sector in COVID-19 Response and Recovery, global job loss patterns were amplified in the tourism sector.
In Botswana, various public and private sector initiatives are in place for a gender-responsive recovery to support women in conservation and tourism. Here, rangers Akanyang Moronga, Galetshwajwe Sareqo and Agonneone Botshelo are undergoing nature guide training to add to their skillsets
Working with local partners, WWF’s African Nature-based Tourism Platform has gathered emerging data on the effects of the pandemic on tourism enterprises in 11 African countries, including Zambia. This data is helping identify the hardest-hit communities and enterprises and their most pressing needs. Funded by the Global Environment Facility (GEF), the platform aims to mobilise at least $15 million to benefit the most vulnerable.
The data suggests that amongst those surveyed female staff dropped from 9,235 to 3,696, and men from 22,461 to 10,091. Women entrepreneurs faced losses from the direct provision of goods and services to tourists and reduced demand from tourism supply chains.
Empowering women in tourism
“The work we’re doing on gender equity and inclusion of marginalised communities is crucial to the recovery of the tourism and conservation landscape in Africa,” says WWF’s Nikhil Advani. “Women in Africa have intimate knowledge and close relationships with natural resources, and similar to the impacts of climate change, COVID-19 hit them the hardest. They are powerful land stewards and leaders but vulnerable to shocks and discrimination, which is why working with women is so important for a more resilient future for tourism and conservation.”
In Anety’s adopted hometown of Livingstone, where life revolves around the tourists and the wildlife they come to see, post-pandemic recovery is slow. Women in Africa often work in low-skilled or informal work with less access to social protection.
“During the pandemic, women in the community were desperate. Some people moved into protected areas to get wood or put down snares. Community members broke fences. And because of fewer human activities in the park, elephants started crossing into the communities. There were accidents and people getting trampled. It was a very stressful time because, you know, we are human. We can’t watch our children go hungry, but we lacked the resources to help.”
Her department deliberately engaged with women because of their needs and influence in family settings. “Having more women as front liners in tourism and conservation, especially in community and conflict situations, will benefit everyone because we are tenacious and diplomatic. But they need support because people still look down on women or give men opportunities first,” says Anety.
Women and nature: a symbiotic relationship
While women in Africa working in tourism were disproportionately affected by the COVID-19 pandemic, they are far from passive victims. Anety and others play prominent roles in developing resilient communities in conservation landscapes. There have been public and private sector initiatives for a gender-responsive recovery and to support women in conservation and tourism.
According to WWF’s Africa Region Director Alice Ruhweza, who has more than 20 years’ experience working at the nexus of conservation and development, “There is a reason we use the words ‘mother nature’ – nature personified as a life-giving and nurturing mother. Whether it’s gathering firewood, gardening, or putting food on the table – women have a stake in nature, and it is reflected in the degree to which they care about natural resources. But there are arguments that when we link women and nature, women suffer the same fate when nature is devalued and degraded. This devaluation of both women and nature can be seen in terms such as ‘virgin Earth’, ‘fertile land’, and ‘barren soil’,” says Ruhweza.
“We need to address this by recognising the important symbiotic relationship between women and nature and ensuring women have full rights to use and benefits from natural resources, and that their voices are at the table when decisions about natural resources are made. Mother nature needs her daughters.”
Ranger Galetshwajwe Sareqo studying for her theory tests for a nature guide course
“The women we work with are strong and determined,” says Robyn Flemix, environmental monitoring and ranger coordinator for Great Plains Foundation, the philanthropic arm of the global tourism brand. In February 2022, she started managing a project to recruit and train 50 women rangers in Botswana and Zimbabwe. As rangers and natural resource monitors, they will help detect the early signs of illegal wildlife crime. Most of the new female ranger recruits worked in tourism and lost their jobs during the pandemic. “But they weren’t sitting at home waiting for something to happen. They were making plans to survive. It’s important to see that resilience as well,” says Robyn.
While the women all had skills, they didn’t have the specialist skills a ranger needs, so Great Plains decided to bolster their training program significantly. “We now understand that equipping them with the skills to enter the field needs to be part of this program. They have just completed a month’s Nature Guide Training course with African Guide Academy and did exceptionally well,” she notes.
One of the newly trained women rangers, Galetshwajwe Sareqo from Seronga Village in Botswana lost her job at the end of March 2020, after five years working in a safari company. “I had thought my life was set. From a salary to no salary, it was very difficult for me to purchase food and other basic necessities. I managed to build a poultry house and raised some broilers to sell. Getting this opportunity with Great Plains is a turning point for a better life for me and my family,” she says.
Playing a valued and viable role in taking care of protected areas allows women from communities bordering protected land to speak with authority and confidence and feel valued on the solutions side of conservation. “Equipping these women with the knowledge and the passion for conservation and for these wild spaces to be able to go back to the communities and share that with their children and the communities around them is essential. There is no reason that women should not be given equal opportunities to protect wildlife,” says Robyn. She believes the long-term conservation impact of this project will be powerful; because “female rangers will ultimately enable the type of community buy-in necessary to preserve Africa’s biodiversity.”
In addition, the African Nature-Based Tourism Platform has been running proposal-writing workshops designed to ensure a strong representation of women and community voices. The platform’s workshop approach has been recognised as an excellent example of gender-responsive measures in the GEF-7 portfolio. Their proactive steps included providing gender training to project staff, collecting sex-disaggregated data to ensure gender differences are visible and can be monitored, and aiming for gender parity across teams conducting interviews with communities. In addition, using the findings of the gender assessment and the gender-sensitive survey on COVID-19 impacts to prioritise funding opportunities for women, who otherwise might remain marginalised due to gender roles that leave them less connected and aware of opportunities, the platform is advancing gender parity in project decision-making processes and across project partners.
These examples show how skills development, multi-sector support and innovation can make women and nature more resilient. Still, its immediate relevance lies in bringing awareness to the role of women in conservation and tourism, where, according to a recent UN report, Advancing Women’s Economic Empowerment in the Tourism Sector in COVID-19 Response and Recovery, the majority of women (58%) work in the informal economy with little or no social protection. They have less access to finance and technology. Yet women’s participation in the tourism sector can contribute to economic empowerment and gender equality.
“Gender equity underpins all the work we’re doing through the African Nature-Based Tourism Platform. We’d love to see more partnerships between women-run enterprises, NGOs, the private sector, and the public sector that support women as they recover from the pandemic and make them resilient to future similar shocks and stressors,” says Advani.
As tourism slowly recovers in post-pandemic Zimbabwe, hunger still stalks the country. Many resort to the basics to survive the loss of income. Read more about communities surviving in post-pandemic Zimbabwe.
I recently had the privilege to realise my lifelong dream of travelling across Tsavo National Park in Kenya on foot on the ‘Great Walk’ with Africa Geographic. I was confident that, even at 80 years of age, I could handle the target of accomplishing 160 km (100 miles) over ten days of walking.
Moreover, I desperately needed to break out of the confines imposed by the pandemic, which had scuttled several planned trips. This expedition to the kingdom of elephants offered an opportunity to remain almost entirely in the open air in a remote area, minimising the risk of infection.
Follow in the footsteps of Tsavo’s elephants along the Great Walk
Tsavo’s tumultuous history
Tsavo National Park has a rich, and at times tumultuous, history. In 1898, two maneless lions terrorised workers constructing the railway from Mombasa to Nairobi, where it crossed the Tsavo River, devouring at least 28 people before they were shot (providing the subject for the film The Ghost and the Darkness). After the park was proclaimed in 1946, elephant population levels increased so much that scientists called for culling. The population later stabilised when at least 6,000 elephants later died in the park during a severe drought in the early 1970s. The death toll was mostly made up of mother elephants and calves confined to the vicinity of the Galana River, where food had run out. This was followed by rampant poaching, which reduced the elephant population in the park from around 25,000 to not much more than 5,000 animals. By 1989, black rhinos were almost eliminated by poaching. Since then, the vegetation has been recovering, while the elephant population has increased to around ~12,000 animals. By 1995, when I first visited the park, signs of the past damage by elephants were not very apparent, apart from the absence of baobab trees. But it was challenging to make a fair assessment back then from the confines of a motor vehicle.
Despite Tsavo’s history, today elephant populations thrive in the park
The Great Walk of Tsavo
Fast forward to our Great Walk this year. Our walking route followed the Tsavo River from where it enters Tsavo in the west to its junction with the Athi River and continued along the Galana River to exit the park in the east. This Great Walk is a single segment of a much longer expedition travelling from the summit of Kilimanjaro to the ocean north of Mombasa, a distance of 480km+. Our walk through elephant country was lavishly supported in terms of camp facilities and food by a team who shifted tents and fresh supplies from one camping area to the next while we traversed the wild, roadless areas on the opposite side of the two rivers. We had to wade across rivers to connect our walking route with camping facilities. Although the water was no more than thigh deep, there was no guarantee that a crocodile wouldn’t appear, adding to the thrill of the journey. However, we were well protected by skilled armed guides stationed at the front and back of our walking party.
A reasonable degree of fitness is needed to cope with the daily distance targets of 15 km or more, primarily through the midday heat. Our guide, Iain Allan, conveyed much of his 40-year knowledge of the region and its history, of films old and new and of his travels as an accomplished mountaineer. He has never tired of leading another walking expedition through Tsavo because each provides unique experiences.
Our group consisted of eight people, including my wife and me, plus two couples from the USA who had been on many expeditions before and two women from Australia. Our daily walk began each morning at 7:00 and ran until 13:00. Afterwards, we would enjoy a cooked lunch with fresh salads and fruit. After lunch, we spent afternoons resting until it was time for a game drive. This was followed by sundowners overlooking the river alongside our camp. These sundowners gathering us around varying river views at dusk were especially delightful.
Camping arrangements provided the luxury of comfortable beds, each tent with its own little pit toilet and bucket shower, plus expertly cooked meals.
The walkers were well protected by skilled guides stationed at either end of the party
Wild experiences
This trip provided several memorable encounters. We walked through dense shrubbery along hippo paths, trusting that the hippos would be immersed in their aquatic refuges during the day while still facing the prospect of close encounters with elephants and buffalos. Thankfully, all the hippos we saw while walking were in the river, but we were aware of incidents on previous walks when walkers had to be protected from charging hippos. Charging elephants have also, on occasion, been deflected by warning shots. Crocodiles have not caused any injuries, but every precaution was taken to cross rivers in shallow water where elephants cross. The group was kept tightly bunched until we reached the safety of land. The vegetation near the Galana River is much more open and grassy, which allowed us to see animals at a distance, and vice versa – apart from the dense salt-bush shrubbery that we had to traverse frequently to get to or from the river.
The Great Walk took the group of travellers through the various terrains of Tsavo, including through and alongside rivers
Elephants revved us twice. Once, just as we entered a tricky section of thick vegetation between the Tsavo River and a steep rocky slope, there was a loud trumpet, and our guide urged us to head back hastily and ascend the hill as high up as we could. Our passage had been blocked by a giant bull elephant evidently in musth. Fortunately, he deviated up the slope, and we were able to traipse cautiously past.
The second incident involved two female elephants in a family group. They headed towards us with a loud trumpet but veered off when we retreated hastily. We passed by many other elephants, but most remained oblivious to our presence.
The characteristic red-stained hides of Tsavo’s elephants
We had another fright when a buffalo bull galloped out of a salt-bush clump just behind us, heading off as fast as he could.
Even more thrilling were the three encounters we had with lions. In two instances, the lions were sleeping, and we crept on without disturbing them. On the third occasion, two lions ran off across the river when we appeared close by. Fortunately, the lions of Tsavo have not retained any tradition of hunting humans, preferring buffalos.
We enjoyed sightings of giraffe, zebra, fringe-eared oryx, waterbuck, Peter’s gazelle (a subspecies of Grant’s gazelle), impala, hartebeest, dik-dik, a single lesser kudu, two gerenuk and even a brief glimpse of a honey badger – with most sightings taking place in the open dry country north of the Galana River. Unfortunately, once abundant in the region, black rhinos are now rarely seen in the area. I wondered how we would have coped with these cantankerous animals puffing towards us out of the thickets.
The group experienced much wildlife along the way, including various elephant encounters, and buffalo, giraffe and zebra sightings
We saw many birds; most notably huge swarms of queleas and an aggregation of Somali bee-eaters at a Delonyx tree that was flowering and attracting bees. Among the reptiles, we saw just one snake – a cobra – and a large monitor lizard. Among insects, it was fascinating to see large numbers of white Belanois butterflies around Boscia bushes, fluttering westwards. Were they connected with the similar butterflies that we see flying in the Highveld in mid-summer going east, perhaps in some great spiral? Surprisingly, we did not experience mosquitos or tsetse flies.
The experience of being completely immersed in the wild Africa that shaped the evolution of our species for two whole weeks is unique to this Great Walk. Tsavo National Park is fascinatingly different from other East African parks in its landscapes, vegetation and fauna.
Overlooking an elephant in the Tsavo River; the author (third from left) poses with his fellow travellers
Want to go on a safari to Tsavo? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team, scroll down to after this story.
Gentle symmetry. An underground hide provides the opportunity to see eye-to-eye with a pair of endangered reticulated giraffes, elegant aquiline muzzles brushing the mineral-rich red earth of the salt lick. Ol Jogi Wildlife Conservancy, Laikipia, Kenya. Photographer of the Year 2022 entrant
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Daring giraffe move + another tusker dies + Cape porcupines
So the CoP19 decision-makers in Panama have closed the loophole that Namibia and Zimbabwe have abused to export wild-caught elephants, including babies, to zoos. The moratorium is temporary, though, to give African countries time to find common ground and hopefully make better decisions that promote conservation rather than lining the pockets of a tiny coterie of wildlife traffickers.
Exporting elephants to zoos has absolutely no positive impact on the protection of the species or on serious issues such as ecosystem protection and human-wildlife conflict.
Interesting how silent the lobbyists for ‘sustainable use’ have been about this clear case of cruelty and abuse. May they hang their heads in shame. I support sustainable use that is backed by science, accountability and transparency – none of which seem present when wild-caught elephants are trafficked to tiny concrete cells in far-flung corners of the globe.
Spare a thought for local people living with wildlife; for it is they who carry the cost to lives and livelihoods while others profit handsomely from pretend conservation.
More about the CITES Cop19 decisions in a while. Finally, be the change you seek in others. Out.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
From the iconic to the awe-inspiring, our travel team has put together two adventure offerings in Kenya and Zimbabwe:
Victoria Falls and Hwange – 7 days – US$2,630
This short but iconic safari delivers two of Zimbabwe’s most popular destinations – Victoria Falls and Hwange National Park. Experience the iconic falls and all the activities the raging Zambezi River has to offer, before heading to Hwange for rewarding wildlife viewing in Zim’s largest national park
Maasai Mara and Samburu – 7 days – US$3,755
Soak up the best of the Maasai Mara and Samburu with this Special Offer. See the Big 5 and Wildebeest Migration and then head to Samburu, in Kenya’s remote and arid far north. Here, you can experience the iconic and rarely seen ‘Samburu five’ – Grevy’s zebra, reticulated giraffe, beisa oryx, gerenuk and Somali ostrich
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
We’re moving with giants this week, celebrating their lives and the people that protect them.
An essential population of West African giraffe in the Gadabedji Biosphere Reserve, Niger, has just been bolstered by the addition of four female giraffes. This after a daring 800km translocation mission under military protection from Niger’s security-stricken ‘Giraffe Zone’, made possible by dedicated conservationists. Read more about this success story below.
In tragic news this week, another iconic Tsavo tusker has died. Lugard, a super tusker that is said to have had one of the largest sets of tusks in Africa, died of natural causes. Lugard is the second tusker to be found deceased in Tsavo in the last month. Read more about Lugard’s life and death in our second story.
In our last story, we explore the wonders of a fascinating mammal: the Cape porcupine. These endearing rodents are family-oriented, elusive and adaptable to the ever-encroaching human impact on their natural habitats. We’re celebrating their resilience in our third story.
Christina Hagen, Project Rep for Birdlife South Africa’s African Penguin Conservation project, writes on the AG Forum:
“A pair of chicks has been seen at a nest at the site of the new African penguin colony in the De Hoop Nature Reserve and Marine Protected Area, near Bredasdorp in the Western Cape, South Africa.
BirdLife South Africa, CapeNature and SANCCOB have been working to re-establish a penguin colony in the De Hoop Nature Reserve to allow breeding penguins better access to moving fish stocks. The project has now reached an important milestone with the first penguin pair successfully hatching and raising two chicks, providing new hope for the future of African penguins. This is an exciting moment for African penguin conservation as it proves that human-assisted colony establishment is possible. While this colony is still in its infancy, it has the potential to contribute to the conservation of this endangered species.”
WATCH: Check out striking footage of Tsavo’s majestic elephants, and the work done by the Tsavo Trust and Kenya Wildlife Services to protect Tsavo’s big tuskers. Keep an eye out for Lugard, the recently deceased super tusker, who can be spotted at 01:24 in the video (02:06). Click here to watch
Lugard, the iconic Tsavo super tusker, has died of natural causes at about 53 years old. Lugard is the second tusker to have died in Tsavo National Park in a month, after matriarch Dida matriarch Dida also died of natural causes.
While Lugard had lived a long life, the Tsavo Trust reports that the severe drought in Tsavo accelerated his natural death. Both of Lugard’s tusks were found intact on his carcass and were recovered.
Tsavo Trust conservation officer and pilot Joseph Kimaile spotted Lugard’s three-day-old carcass from the air during a routine reconnaissance flight in Tsavo West National Park on 21 November. An immediate ground response was then initiated by Kenya Wildlife Services and Tsavo Trust to verify the situation.
On close observation, it was determined that the fallen elephant was indeed Lugard, who had passed away from natural causes
The joint Tsavo Trust and Kenya Wildlife Services Big Tusker Project aims to deliver security and protection to the iconic tuskers through regular monitoring activities.
Lugard was known for his large tusks and the distinct wart on his trunk. His tusks were reported to be one of the largest sets on a living elephant. According to Tsavo Trust field staff, Lugard was one of the more friendly and approachable big tuskers and was easy to identify due to his characteristic wart.
Lugard was first named and recorded in the Big Tusker Project database in January 2014 and has been observed by the project on 373 occasions since.
One of the last images captured of Lugard while he was alive. Hesté de Beer managed to find and photograph Lugard only a week before his death. “He wasn’t moving around a lot,” said Hesté
“This presence and track record is something that has undoubtedly contributed to Lugard living out a full life,” reported Tsavo Trust in its eulogy to Lugard. “This is a rarity in today’s elephant world, and especially with an elephant that has carried such impressive ivory for so many years.”
Africa’s tuskers face many threats, including poaching, habitat loss and human-wildlife conflict. But these elephants are protected in areas such as Kenya’s Tsavo and Amboseli National Parks, where they are monitored for protection against poaching and injury. Kenya does not allow trophy hunting, unlike Botswana and Zimbabwe, where tuskers are targeted for trophy hunting.
The Big Tusker Project collects data and responds to imminent threats to these tuskers. This ongoing presence is a significant deterrent to poachers and other illegal activity.
Lugard regularly crisscrossed between Tsavo East and Tsavo West National Parks in the Manyani area throughout his life. Observations of his movement between the parks later led to authorities and conservationists developing an underpass under the SG Railway to allow wildlife to cross without harm.
Lugard has fathered dozens of calves over the decades, passing his genes on to many elephants who may become tuskers.
Majestic Lugard’s tusks were said to be one of the largest sets on a living elephant in Africa
An essential population of West African giraffe in the Gadabedji Biosphere Reserve, Niger, has just been bolstered by the addition of four female giraffes after a daring 800km translocation mission.
In mid-November, the four giraffes were translocated under military protection from Niger’s security-stricken ‘Giraffe Zone’, an area in W Transboundary Biosphere Reserve, east of the capital Niamey. The four females joined a group of eight West African giraffe in the reserve, which were re-introduced to the area in 2018. Before the establishment of this population, the highly threatened mammal was absent from the reserve for almost 50 years.
There are currently only 600+ highly threatened West African giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis peralta) – a subspecies of the Northern giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis) – remaining in the wild. This isolated population is restricted to the Giraffe Zone, which is not formally protected. Establishing a second viable population of West African giraffe in the Gadabedji area is key to their long-term survival.
“Operation Sahel Giraffe II”, which entailed covering the 800km journey in only 48 hours, was coordinated by the Giraffe Conservation Foundation (GCF) in collaboration with the Nigerien Ministry of Environment, with support from SaharaConservation and Wild Africa Conservation.
The four giraffes were translocated under military protection from Niger’s security-stricken ‘Giraffe Zone’
After a year of preparation, the four females were captured in the Giraffe Zone and transferred to a holding pen, where they were kept for several days to prepare them for the long and arduous journey. After travelling by truck in convoy under heavy military protection, the giraffes were successfully released into the reserve and promptly joined the resident population.
In recent months, prior to the addition of the four new females, three calves were born to the Gadabedji population. Conservationists hope the addition of these females will contribute to breeding successes within the population.
The giraffes were successfully released into Gadabedji Biosphere Reserve
Approximately 50 years ago, giraffes became locally extinct in the Gadabedji Biosphere Reserve due to drought and illegal hunting. Since 2013, Niger’s Wildlife Authority, with support from the Niger Fauna Corridor Project/GEF/UNDP, has worked towards restoring the region’s wildlife and habitat. The re-introduction has helped to enrich the reserve’s biodiversity and contributed to increasing community development and support in the area. Growing this second viable population of West African giraffe outside of the Giraffe Zone is key to their long-term survival.
“While giraffe continue to thrive in the Giraffe Zone, their safety is not guaranteed,” says Dr Sara Ferguson, Conservation Health Coordinator of the Giraffe Conservation Foundation.
In the Giraffe Zone, the giraffes share their habitat with local communities and livestock, and compete for space and resources. Their threats include agricultural encroachment, climate change and variability, human population growth, and natural-resource over-exploitation. As a result of a growing giraffe population and increasing human population pressure, giraffe have started to migrate out of the Giraffe Zone, where they find themselves in conflict situations with humans unaccustomed to their presence, and too close to the insecure border areas with Burkina Faso, Mali, and Nigeria.
“Our team took a huge risk in moving these giraffe – specifically from Koure to Gadabedji,” says Ferguson. “We captured these giraffe close to the very spot where both Nigeriens and foreign French tourists were killed in a senseless act of terrorism a few years ago when innocently visiting these rare giraffe. It was not an easy mission and keeping both giraffe and the team safe was not an easy task by a longshot. However, the reward of seeing these four majestic animals run free into their new home made it all worthwhile.”
The giraffes travelled the 800km journey in the back of a truck
In the mid-1990s, only 49 West African giraffe remained in the wild, and as a result, the subspecies was listed as Endangered on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species in 2008.
Conservation efforts by the Government of Niger, in collaboration with local and international partners, triggered the remarkable recovery to its present-day population of over 600. The population increase resulted in the downlisting of the subspecies to Vulnerable on the IUCN Red List in November 2018.
This re-introduction of West African giraffe to their former range in Niger is just one small but important milestone in the conservation efforts that the Giraffe Conservation Foundation has instigated with their partners.
As African mammals go, the Cape porcupine (Hystix africaeaustralis) is perhaps the least ambiguous in its message to the world around it – for a creature with a crest of spines, some of which are over 50cm in length, social distancing was never going to be a challenge. Yet despite their somewhat antisocial look, these fortified rodents have a surprisingly family-oriented approach to life and, if left alone, are relatively innocuous in their existence. Retiring and elusive, it is often only their family-shared attraction to human rubbish that alerts surrounding people to their presence.
The basics
Cape porcupines are the largest rodents in Africa and the fourth largest in the world after South America’s capybaras and North American and Eurasian beavers. The largest Cape porcupines measured have weighed more than 30kg, though most weigh around 20kg, with minimal size difference between the males and the females. They are found throughout Southern, Central and East Africa in a wide range of habitats from deserts to forest, and live for over 10 years in the wild. At present, Cape porcupines are listed as being of “least concern” by the IUCN.
They are stocky and powerfully built creatures with short limbs, and while they can bustle off at a fair pace if disturbed, porcupines clearly do not rely on speed or camouflage as part of their predator avoidance strategy. Instead, it is their significant armoury that keeps them safe – a strategy effective for all but the most determined or foolish of predators.
When threatened, porcupines stiffen their quills away from their bodies, forming a protective shield around their backs
The weapons
Their black-and-white quiver of quills is an example of aposematic colouring – contrasting colouration used to warn would-be predators to think twice about attacking. This is combined with specially modified hollow quills that the porcupines use to make a startling rattling sound when threatened. If these warnings are ignored, porcupines are not afraid to use these spines, sometimes to deadly effect. The quills themselves are essentially modified, hardened hairs and they come in several different shapes and sizes that all form part of the same defence system. The longest of these tend to be quite thin and flexible – the perfect tool for poking at vulnerable eyes and making it extremely difficult to get anywhere close to the porcupine’s body. A second set of quills set in clusters around the porcupine’s back and tail are shorter and thicker, creating a powerful barrier of spears that are used for precisely that purpose.
Despite the general misconception to the contrary, porcupines are incapable of shooting their spines at would-be attackers like some kind of archer. Instead, their technique when threatened is to stiffen their quills away from their bodies, forming a protective shield around their backs and then, if necessary, they reverse at high speed into their attacker. The ends of their quills are highly barbed at the tip, which enables quick penetration but makes removal extremely difficult and it is not all that uncommon to see leopards or lions with quills deeply embedded within their flesh. Though rare, these painful injuries and subsequent infections can prove fatal.
This stab-and-retreat approach is effective as a deterrent – most predators will back off from confrontation. That said, lions and leopards can and do kill porcupines, though in the case of lions this is unusual behaviour only seen in curious adolescents or particularly hungry individuals. Young leopards also find themselves attracted to the allure of such slow-moving prey and some develop unique strategies that allow them to become porcupine specialists. Using their finely honed ambush skills, these porcupine enthusiasts aim for the head before the porcupine has time to fire up its defence systems.
Fascinatingly, spotted hyenas very seldom bother to harass porcupines. In areas with high availability of prey (without such thorny exteriors), hyena cubs and porcupines sometimes share the same set of burrows. However, the rambunctious hyena cubs usually send their neighbours packing eventually. As diurnal animals, warthogs tend to make better roommates, returning to the burrow just as the porcupines are getting ready to depart. Unless there has to be an unfortunate mistiming of entry, these arrangements tend to be largely without incident.
Only the most determined – and fiercest – of predators will take their chances with a porcupine’s highly barbed quills. (View more of Anna-C Nagel’s images via @wildphotographix, and read the story of this encounter between a honey badger and Cape porcupine via the link under Resources below)
Diet and behaviour
Porcupines are almost entirely nocturnal, emerging from their underground burrows at dusk to set off in search of a mostly plant-based diet, ranging across a territory that can be over 200 hectares in certain areas. As previously mentioned, porcupines do display a particular proclivity for raiding human habitation in search of tastier meals. Vegetable gardens prove to be a particularly attractive option and unless well-protected, will seldom survive long in an area where porcupines roam. Some individuals become so brazen that they have been known to enter houses, much to the bemusement and occasional surprise of resident humans and pets.
Thanks to their rodent incisors, the signs of porcupine feeding activity are easy to spot. They have a particular appreciation for the bark at the base of tamboti trees (Spirostachys africana), even though the latex secreted by these trees is extremely toxic to humans. Their foraging activities are not entirely limited to the vegetarian options, and they regularly gnaw on bones to supplement their mineral intake.
Reproduction
Porcupines are monogamous, and both the male and female play a role in raising and protecting their young (known as porcupettes – watch this cute video). The pair mates regularly (and carefully) throughout the year, though the female typically only has one litter each year, usually during the wet season. The average number of offspring is one porcupette, but there can be up to three in a litter, born with soft quills that harden a few days after birth. The young spend their first few weeks close to the safety of a set of burrows before they are old enough to accompany their parents on foraging excursions. They reach sexual maturity at around a year old, and both the males and females disperse from their natal groups once mature.
Porcupines are almost entirely nocturnal
Resilient through and through
Even though they are sometimes hunted and eaten in the bushmeat trade and their quills are used for both ornamental purposes and traditional medicine, overall Cape porcupine numbers remain stable for now. There are regions where they are more likely to be persecuted, particularly in farming areas where their dietary preferences and ability to dig under fences do little to endear them to their human neighbours. Yet, like many members of the rodent family, Cape porcupines have shown themselves to be both resilient and adaptable to the ever-encroaching human impact on their natural habitats.
The human population has doubled in just 48 years – to 8 billion. Try suggesting that there are too many of us and face being cancelled by easily offended keyboard warriors and economists/politicians who believe that growth is good and necessary for the ongoing rollout of humankind’s exclusive-use model for Planet Earth.
The elephant population in Africa has plummeted over about the same period from 1,3 million in 1980 to 415,428 in 2015 (last census). That’s a 68% decline.
And yet vociferous and influential right-wing activists and some governments will have us believe that there are too many elephants.
Go figure ?
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
We have two enticing safaris on offer at the moment: Hone your art skills with a hands-on art safari, or spend a few days in the heart of the Maasai Mara, without the crowds. Start planning your next safari now:
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MAASAI MARA SAFARI – 6 days – US$ 2,590:
This is an off-the-beaten-track safari for those who want the magnificence of the Maasai Mara – without the crowds. Stay at intimate owner-run Enkewa Camp, where you’ll feel part of the family – while still enjoying the tranquility of privacy
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
The 19th meeting of the Conference of the Parties to CITES (CoP19) is currently underway in Panama City. There is a buzz this year around the proposal brought by ten African states to uplist hippos from Appendix II to Appendix I. Hippo specimens (especially ivory) are legally and illegally traded in large numbers, and shifting hippos to Appendix 1 should ensure stricter legal trade regulations. We’ve unpacked the issues at play in our first story.
In our second story, we explore the ideal safari for avid photographers searching for a raw experience of the Maasai Mara: Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp in Kenya’s Mara North Conservancy. We’ve seen some incredible photos emanating from Oltepesi – including this year’s winning entry for Photographer of the Year. Simon went to see for himself what Oltepesi has to offer, and was bowled over by his experience of a safari that caters to every special need of its photographer guests. Read more below.
Did you know that Madagascar was once home to several species of Malagasy hippos, lemurs the size of humans, and giant elephant birds? The biggest of the elephant bird species was around three metres tall and roughly 750 kg (take a moment to let that sink in – even the heaviest ostriches seldom weigh more than 140 kg).
So where did they go? Well, no one knows for sure, but (somewhat unsurprisingly) their disappearance seems to coincide with a human population boom on the island.
Exploring Zambia with AG
Lex van Vught and his wife Joan recently travelled with AG to South Luangwa NPandKafue NPin Zambia:
“Already spoiled by a lifetime of fabulous sightings in the wild, my wife and I experienced a phenomenon in Zambia in September that simply took our breaths away: we sat for hours in a hide 20m away from a raucous breeding colony of hundreds of pairs of southern carmine bee-eaters, breeding in tunnels in a bank near the Kaingo Camp in South Luangwa.
Equally sensational was the hide at the Mwamba Bush Camp where we spent many hours photographing a constant stream of fauna, with our subjects mere metres from us.
Another destination on our 9-day trip was Busanga Plains in Kafue – Zambia’s unspoiled national park, which is even larger than South Africa’s Kruger National Park. The transfers and tsetse flies were soon forgotten when we found ourselves surrounded by herds of lechwe from horizon to horizon. We witnessed groups of up to 30 roan antelope, hippos too numerous to count, many other mammals and abundant bird life. Our three bush camps were intimate and wonderful, and all logistics and arrangements made by AG were excellent.”
WATCH: Care for a taste of an AG safari? We are a TAILORED SAFARI company and have been crafting life-changing vacations since 1991. All budgets and interests are catered for. Start the discussion to come on safari with us! (01:05). Click here to watch
There is a camp in Kenya’s Mara North Conservancy in the Maasai Mara ecosystem that caters to photographers – of all levels. It’s co-owned by a local Maasai man and is the lifeblood of an entire community – providing jobs and financial security. In addition, the borehole and water tank at the camp provide over 2,000 people with potable water. This is Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp.
After seeing fantastic photos emanating from Oltepesi (including from our 2022 Photographer of the Year winner), I was keen to head out there to see for myself. So, armed with my mobile phone, I joined a group of AG clients for a few days of their Maasai Mara safari.
Late afternoon camaraderie between two young males – a sample of the photographic opportunities on offer at Oltepesi
The first thing that struck me when we arrived at Oltepesi after our one-hour flight from Nairobi and a 40-minute game drive to the camp was the location within a village. So daily interactions with the Maasai folk were adhoc and unrehearsed as if I was a member of their community. Strolling over to visit local children or to walk amongst the goats in their pen next to the vegetable garden was not an arranged outing, as it usually is when on safari. And taking photos was a joyful process – not as awkward as it can be. This au naturel exposure to Maasai culture added significant value and dignity to my stay at Oltepesi. As did knowing that my visit DIRECTLY benefited an entire village and so helped preserve the magic of Maasai Mara.
Daily interactions with local Maasai people are commonplace, as Oltepesi is situated within a village
And then there is the location. Mara North Conservancy borders Maasai Mara National Reserve (there are no fences), so game drives start when you leave camp. Expect livestock herds mixed in with wildlife before you cross the invisible Reserve boundary (and even inside the Reserve in places) because the Maasai owners of Mara North blend their traditional pastoral livelihood with a tourism model. None of our party felt weird about seeing herders guiding their livestock past zebras and elephants – this reminded me how flexible the Maasai people are and how they accept wild animals as valid co-inhabitants of their space. What a privilege to share their home.
A Maasai woman poses with a young lamb outside her home in the Oltepesi compound. Au naturel exposure to Maasai culture adds significant value to an Oltepesi safari
The camp is what I would call ‘functional comfort’ – everything you need as a photographer but little by way of frills. That’s why it’s so affordable compared to other camps in the area. When you spend most of your day out there taking epic photos, you don’t want to spend a fortune on unused luxuries. The camp is entirely off the grid, with 24/7 device-charging facilities in your tent and the common area. There is wifi for emails and Whatsapp. The food is wholesome, and the service is excellent.
Oltepesi is comfortable, functional and off-the-grid; expect livestock herds mixed in with wildlife
During my stay, I spent time with two Oltepesi guides – John Siololo and George Kiriama. Both were excellent – not only for their knowledge of the area and how to find wildlife but their understanding of positioning the vehicle for optimal photography.
We spent the majority of every day out there on the endless plains of the Maasai Mara, leaving camp before the first sparrow chirp and returning after the nightjars and hyenas started cranking up the volume.
Submerged deep within the herds
After hours of game drives and photography, we would pull over under a massive tree or on a rocky ridge and enjoy scrumptious Kenyan coffee, eggs, bacon and flapjacks or Kenyan beer, pasta, cold meats, salad and fresh bread rolls – depending on the time of day. We spent many hours observing wildlife movements and anticipating photographic opportunities and often remained at sightings long after other tourists had left the scene. We left sightings that had attracted too many tourists – much to my relief. This was the prime season, after all. The pace of a day like this differs from the game drive routine at most lodges. Our mission was to be OUT THERE for as long as possible – making the most of our rare time in paradise.
Game drives at Oltepesi are centred around photography – from the use of a specially modified vehicle to guides who ensure optimal experiences for photographers
Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp is the birthchild of two wonderful human beings. Norwegian semi-professional photographer Arnfinn Johansen and John Siololo first met many years back when John was a private guide and Arnfinn the client. Arnfinn returned year after year to spend time with John in the Maasai Mara. After spending time on John’s family land, the idea was born to start a lodge in 2017. Fast forward to current times, and the two gents use their combined networks to make a real difference at ground level. Amongst many endeavours, they donate bednights to the Remembering Wildlife series of photographic books – the proceeds go towards conservation projects. Right to Sight is a campaign to provide cataract surgery to prevent blindness. In 2023, Oltepesi will close for a portion of the low season to be used as a clinic for eye surgery for local people.
The photos below tell the story of my journey with the Oltepesi crew better than I can – please enjoy them.
A young male glows in the golden lightA martial eagle casts a wary eye on the photographerNonchalant as a heavy storm approaches
Young cheetahs try – and succeed in – the huntA dark-chanting goshawk takes flightRed-faced and satiatedA giant stretch to loosen the limbsAn afternoon stroll, unphased by the presence of a hyena
Want to go on a safari to Oltepesi? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team, scroll down to after this story.
Ten African states have proposed the transfer of the hippopotamus from CITES Appendix II to Appendix I ahead of the 19th Conference of the Parties.
Their 36-page proposal highlights that hippo specimens (especially ivory) are legally and illegally traded in large numbers and that the animals are currently listed as ‘Vulnerable’ on the IUCN’s Red List of Threatened Species. The shift to Appendix I should ensure stricter legal trade regulations and make it more challenging for illegal hippo parts to enter the market.
CITES and the Conference of the Parties
The Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) is a multinational treaty that regulates international trade to avoid the over-exploitation of animals and plants. As a fundamental starting point, all trade is permitted unless a species is listed in one of three appendixes:
Appendix 1 – species threatened by extinction or trade, such as cheetahs, chimpanzees and pangolins. Trade in animals listed under Appendix 1 is almost entirely banned except under exceptional circumstances, and export and import permits are required. Any captive-bred animals are treated under the auspices of Appendix 2.
Appendix 2 – species whose numbers could become threatened if subject to uncontrolled trade. Only an export permit is required to trade in animals and plants listed in this appendix.
Appendix 3 – species are included at the request of a member state wanting the cooperation of other countries to control exploitation.
Every three years, the parties to the convention (the signatory countries) meet to review the treaty’s implementation. Here, the Appendix listing of individual species is revised as an ongoing discussion regarding their numbers and the success (or otherwise) of conservation efforts. The states can also make recommendations to improve the efficiency of the implementation of the treaty. The 14th of November 2022 marks the start of the 19th meeting of the Conference of the Parties (CoP19) to the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wildlife Fauna and Flora (CITES) in Panama.
Ahead of each event, state parties are invited to submit proposals on amendments to the appendix listing of species to either strengthen or relax trade regulations. The proposals must detail how trade affects the species and any other threats they may face.
The Hippopotamus
Benin, Burkina Faso, Central African Republic, Gabon, Guinea, Liberia, Mali, Niger, Senegal and Togo submitted a joint proposal that hippos (Hippopotamus amphibius) be moved from Appendix II to Appendix I. The document details how the species was first listed as ‘Vulnerable’ in the IUCN Red List in 2006, a categorisation affirmed by the most recent assessment in 2016. The proposal also emphasises that hippos are particularly vulnerable to overexploitation due to their low reproductive output. Females only reach sexual maturity at around ten years, and mature cows produce just one calf at a minimum of two-year intervals.
The 2016 IUCN Assessment estimated a continental hippo population of between 115,000 and 130,000 mature individuals. While the overall population is considered stable, the IUCN states: “Conservation status of hippos remains precarious, and the need for direct conservation action to protect hippos and hippo habitat across their range is a priority. Although hippo populations have stabilised in some countries, hippo population declines are still reported in many countries. The growing and unabated threats of habitat loss and unregulated hunting are major challenges to hippo population viability and persistence” (IUCN, 2016).
The proposal provides a comprehensive summary of population assessments in individual countries across the continent. The upshot is hippos were already believed to be declining (or their status was unknown) in 25 of 38 of their range countries in 2016. Furthermore, research from later years indicates that some of the conclusions of the 2016 Assessment are no longer applicable. For example, the population was deemed to be increasing in Uganda, but a study published in 2021 found hippos in Murchison Falls National Park (which represents a population stronghold in Uganda) had declined 65% since 2016, from 1,683 to 590.
Hippos are particularly vulnerable to overexploitation due to their low reproductive output: females only reach sexual maturity at around ten years of age
The trade in hippos
The 2016 Assessment identified habitat loss and illegal and unregulated hunting (for meat and ivory) as the two primary threats to hippo populations. According to the CITES Trade Database, 77,579 hippo “specimens” (including ivory, teeth, trophies, skulls and live animals) were globally imported between 2009 and 2018, 98% of which were wild-sourced. Using the Trade Database statistics, the proposal estimates that these specimens represent some 13,909 individual hippos. The most common trade was in ivory carvings. The USA, France and Hong Kong were among the top importers, while the leading countries of origin were Tanzania, Zimbabwe, Uganda, South Africa, and Malawi.
In addition to the legal trade, the illegal trade in hippo ivory rose sharply following the listing of African elephant species in Appendix I in 1989. In the years following this decision, the export of illegal hippo ivory increased by an estimated 200% – a trend that has continued in the intervening decades. Between 2009 and 2018, nearly 1,000kg and over 6,000 hippo specimens destined for illegal trade were seized in 48 countries.
Safeguarding Africa’s hippos
Research suggests that for the hippo, even an offtake of 1% of the adult population sustained over several decades can result in population declines when accounting for rainfall variability and habitat loss. Yet in all the top countries of origin but for Zambia, the estimated legal trade exceeded 1% of the total population.
The hunting of hippos is completely banned in 14 African countries: Angola, Burkino Faso, Cameroon, Central African Republic, the Democratic Republic of Congo, Gabon, Ghana, Guinea Bissau, Kenya, Niger, Nigeria, Rwanda, Senegal and Somalia. Yet according to the CITES Trade Database, hippo specimens from five of these countries entered legal trade despite such exports being illegal under national law. Of all countries where the hunting and export of hippos is legal and regulated (including South Africa, Tanzania, Zimbabwe, Zambia and Malawi), only Cameroon has a national hippo management plan currently in place.
Final thoughts
The shift of animals from Appendix II to Appendix I is understandably celebrated by those campaigning for stricter trade regulations. However, it is also an indictment of the failings of conservation efforts to protect these species and should serve as a grave warning of the ongoing challenges they face. Whether hippos are uplisted to Appendix I at this CoP or one in the future, it will mark a grim milestone in the precipitous decline of another of Africa’s iconic large mammals.
Resources
CITES was established to regulate the international trade of animals & plants to avoid the over-exploitation of endangered species. Read more about how CITES works here.
A grey crowned crane stretches out its neck and wing during a mating dance. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. Photographer of the Year 2020 entrant
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Fallen tusker + magical Bazaruto + human-wildlife conflict in Namibia
Turn up the mic. I have something to say.
Social media discussions about trophy hunting as a tool to save Africa’s wild places often collapse into bitter spats. How many keyboard warriors (on both ends of the ideological spectrum) go beyond the bickering to actually DO SOMETHING?
I know of one (non-tourism) company that leases a vast (60,000 ha) hunting concession in the Mana Pools area of Zimbabwe – that’s 36km of Zambezi River frontage. Over the last five years, they have paid the annual trophy hunting fees due to the government – and yet not one animal has been hunted. They also got rid of poaching, improved the roads and implemented successful local community projects. Wildlife populations have bounced back. They did this without fanfare because they believe it is the right thing to do. Now, this slice of paradise is ready for the next phase of its journey – responsible photographic tourism. There is no shortage of willing operators keen to set up shop. But someone must fund the ongoing legacy – by paying the annual trophy hunting fees. The required amount is significant at +/- USD300,000 per annum.
Are there any well-heeled individuals or anti-hunting charities out there that are prepared to step forward? Contact me for a private discussion. My team and I have no financial interest in this operation – just a deep-seated drive to help others work their magic. No chancers, please.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
We have two thrilling safaris lined up for those seeking a fiery introduction to some of southern Africa’s best destinations.
Cape Town and Kruger safari – 7 days:
Blend sophisticated, vibey Cape Town and the Cape Winelands with exceptional Greater Kruger Big-5 game viewing in this classic bucket-list safari. We recommend 7 days, but will adapt the safari to suit your needs. Budget, mid-range and luxury options are all on offer
Okavango Delta safari – 4 days:
This safari in the Okavango Delta is a great introduction to this watery paradise. The Okavango is a lush wilderness of grassy floodplains, islands and water channels, which are engineered and maintained by hippos & elephants. Don’t miss out on one of the most fascinating ecosystems on the planet
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
This week we explore the magic of Bazaruto Archipelago National Park, a marine paradise off the coast of Mozambique. Bazaruto has all the ingredients of a sublime ocean-themed safari. Fascinating creatures, breathtaking scenery, and exceptional biodiversity define the five islands and marine habitats making up the archipelago, where diverse coral reefs thrive. If you’re keen for a barefoot adventure in one of the planet’s most beautiful seascapes, check out our first story below.
The answer to mitigating human-wildlife conflict in wild areas in Africa is no simple one. But understanding long-term trends associated with different types and frequencies of conflict incidents is essential in planning mitigation policies and aiding communities negatively affected by them. Our second story below examines research from Namibia, delving into the history of human-wildlife conflict incidents in the country between 2001 and 2019 to identify some crucial trends. An important story when trying to understand the complexities at play. See below.
Lastly, elephant Dida, tusker and matriarch of Tsavo National Park, and possibly Africa’s largest female tusker, has died of natural causes. Read more about this fallen giant in our third story.
There is a glorious moment at the end of the long dry season when the storm clouds build and release the first drops of precious, life-giving water. At this point, someone invariably says, “Ah, I love that smell,” and someone else is bound by the inexplicable laws of the Universe to nod sagely and reply, “There’s a word for that smell – it’s ‘petrichor'”. Happens every year and comes as a revelation to no one.
But did you know that the smell of petrichor is the scent of dead bacteria? Specifically, a compound called geosmin, which is released by dead microbes like Streptomyces bacteria in the soil. Apparently, the human nose is 200,000x more sensitive to geosmin than a shark is to blood in the water.
It is a pleasant smell, though.
WATCH: Watch as Verity, a 15 year old lioness in Khutse Game Reserve in the Kalahari, Botswana, fends off a pack of wild dogs so she can get to the waterhole to drink. Female lions have a life expectancy of 15-16 years in the wild: Verity has done very well for a lion of her age in the harsh Kalahari environment (02:29). Click here to watch
Picture the scene: you’ve spent the day exploring the azure waters of a marine sanctuary, suspended in the amniotic embrace of the Indian Ocean and marvelling at encounters with its enigmatic residents. Sun-kissed and slightly salty, you sip a cocktail (of a suitably lurid colour) and watch the hues of the sky and sand as Africa delivers one of her speciality sunsets. Mozambique’s Bazaruto Archipelago has all the ingredients of a sublime safari, albeit ocean-themed: fascinating creatures, breathtaking scenery, and exceptional biodiversity.
Bazaruto Archipelago National Park
Bazaruto Archipelago National Park spans a vast 1,260km² (126,000 hectares) off the coastline of Mozambique, encompassing five islands, diverse coral reefs and critical marine habitats. Declared a protected area in 1971, Bazaruto (meaning ‘island of the mist’) is the country’s oldest marine park. Three of the five islands are home to a tiny rural population of some 5,000 people, who survive predominantly through subsistence farming and harvesting the archipelago’s natural resources.
The eponymous Bazaruto Island is the largest of the islands by a substantial margin. Its eastern edge is dominated by enormous and ancient dunes, while the interior is pockmarked by inland lakes and wetlands, home to crocodiles and abundant birdlife. Benguerra and Magaruque Islands to the south are similarly structured on a smaller scale. Santa Caroline (also known as Paradise Island – for good reason) is the only true volcanic island, uninhabited and positioned between Bazaruto and the mainland. Finally, tiny Banque Island (and its satellite Pansy Shell Island) occupies the southernmost tip of the park – little more than a stretch of sand.
Each of the five islands has a unique character, but all share the same fundamentals: long stretches of the white sandy beaches for which Mozambique is renowned and a cornucopia of life in the seas around them.
A glimpse of Bazaruto’s azure-blue waters and extensive beaches
Bazaruto’s picture-perfect beaches roll on as far as the eye can see. This profusion of natural resources paved the way for abuse through overuse, illegal fishing practices, poaching and poorly regulated tourism activities, which threatened Bazaruto’s rare and endemic marine life. Fortunately, the park became the first marine reserve to fall under the management auspices of African Parks in 2017 when they partnered with Mozambique’s National Administration of Conservation Areas to protect the country’s sapphire treasure.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
The non-profit organisation immediately set about securing the region, clamping down on illegal fishing and turtle poaching, and intercepting commercial fishing vessels. To ensure the park’s long-term future, African Parks immediately established a community engagement programme to build a relationship between local communities and park management teams. Through scholarships, learning materials, uniforms, and several other initiatives, such as disaster relief, the goal is to ensure that communities sustainably benefit from their country’s resources. African Parks also worked with tourism operators in the region to formalise the regulation of activities conducted in the park.
The result is a thriving seascape with flourishing aquatic inhabitants (including endangered sea turtles and rare dugongs) and exceptional potential for high-end, low-impact tourism.
Bazaruto consists of five islands and diverse coral reefs; long white beaches dominate the island; the island is home to critical marine habitats, and sea turtles are a common sight here; Santa Caroline Island is also known as Paradise Island
Ocean safari
Bazaruto is one of the most valuable marine sanctuaries along the East African coastline, protecting critical habitats for many rare and endemic species, including iconic oceanic megafauna. The temperate and calm waters of the area act as one of the most important breeding grounds and migratory corridors of East Africa’s coast. Pods of six species of dolphins (bottlenose, common, Fraser’s, humpback, spinner and striped) cut through the turquoise waves. Below the surface, silver flashes and kaleidoscope colours reveal some 2,000 species of fishes. For half the year, migrating southern right and humpback whales move through the warm waters, their leviathan figures breaching out of the water before slamming down in a cloud of spray. Now and again, the long black fins and sleek tuxedo forms of orcas (killer whales) move silently through the tranquil seas.
For elasmobranch (cartilaginous fish – sharks, rays and so on) enthusiasts, the waters of Mozambique are home to 122 species. In particular, the country is famous for its whale shark encounters. These gentle giants are the biggest fishes in the world, reaching over 14 metres in length, dwarfing those fortunate enough to swim by their side. They congregate around Bazaruto between October and April and (provided they are treated with respect) are slow and docile, allowing for the deeply humbling privilege of time spent in their harmless company. Each of these prodigious plankton-eaters is covered in a unique constellation of white spots, which help scientists keep track of an individual’s movements across the globe.
The whale sharks generally prefer the deeper waters further from the coast, along with other pelagic sharks, manta rays and myriad fish species, including kingfish, king mackerel, marlin, and sailfish. Closer to shore, deep calm blue gives way to the hustle and bustle of the reefs. Coral reefs cover just 0.1% of the ocean yet support 25% of all marine life, which gives some idea of the tremendous diversity on display. In Bazaruto, these vibrant oceanic hubs support a plethora of fauna and flora, from eye-catching fishes to flamboyant nudibranchs.
Every year from November until March, the seas fill with female sea turtles bobbing through to nest on the islands’ beaches. Many (but not all) are returning to the place where they once made the terrifying journey to the sea as hatchlings at least thirty years previously. African Parks has implemented a turtle nest monitoring programme and has since confirmed that five species of turtle: leatherback, loggerhead, green, olive ridley and hawksbill turtles all nest on the beaches of the Bazaruto Archipelago.
2,000 species of fishes call the national park home; a crocodile fish blends into the reef; bottlenose dolphins frolic in the waves; scuba diving in the numerous coral reefs is a popular activity around the islands
A mermaid’s tale
Yet of all the marine wonders of Bazaruto, the dugongs are the archipelago’s most sought-after residents. Dugongs are the only surviving representatives of an entire family (Dugongidae), and those inhabiting Bazaruto are the last viable population in the western Indian Ocean. Cousins to the manatee, these peculiar-looking creatures look a little as though someone crossed a hippopotamus and a dolphin. Some historians have even postulated that the dugong may be the origin of mermaid mythology in certain cultures.
These massive (up to around 500kg) animals are strictly herbivorous, and their snouts are adapted to vacuum up seagrass from the ocean floor, imparting a rather woeful expression to their round faces and earning them the nickname “sea cows”. Due to the fragile nature of this remaining population of some 300 individuals, African Parks has implemented strict rules for viewing them from boats or underwater. Swimming with dugongs is only permitted in the presence of a guide and is limited to four people at a time. These restrictions (along with the other widescale protective measures) have already proved successful. At the end of 2021, Mozambique documented the largest dugong herd in East Africa in nearly thirty years.
Dugongs are the archipelago’s most sought-after residents
Explore & stay
Want to go on a safari to Bazaruto? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team, scroll down to after this story.
Bazaruto Archipelago National Park is open to day visitors and is easily accessible from the nearby towns of either Vilankulos or Inhassoro. Visitors will find accommodation options within and around these mainland hubs to suit almost any budget, from backpackers and hostels to private villas and five-star luxury. However, many visitors opt to stay within the park at one of the magnificent lodges tucked away on a private beach.
Unsurprisingly, most hours are whiled away enjoying the soft white sands of the beaches or exploring the cerulean waters beyond. Hence, activities such as diving, snorkelling, kite surfing or deep-sea fishing are the order of the day. Tiny sailboats transport sun-kissed visitors between islands, stopping over for an intimate picnic beach without another living soul in sight. Experienced equestrians can crest the dunes on horseback before galloping through the sea spray, while less-experienced riders can sit back in the saddle and let their horses amble through the lapping waves. Helicopter flips, sunset cruises on local dhows, beach barbeques and dune boarding – this magical section of the Mozambican coast is a tropical beach paradise.
For those able to drag themselves from the sea, there are inland hikes past scenic freshwater lakes (many of which are home to Nile crocodiles, so swimming is not advisable!) framed against a backdrop of enormous dunes.
Deciding on when to visit is a matter of personal priorities based on both temperatures and seasonal movements of marine life. The park is at its hottest from October to March, when the whale sharks concentrate around the Bazaruto waters. This is also the rainiest time of the year; December through April is considered cyclone season. Unless the goal of the trip is to swim with whale sharks, many travellers prefer to visit during the milder winter months between May to September. The first humpback whales move through Bazaruto in July, with the stragglers departing around October. (For a seasonal calendar of wildlife viewing and weather and up-to-date feedback on research conducted in the area, the Bazaruto Centre for Scientific Studies website is an excellent resource.)
Dhows line the beaches; explore the beaches and dunes on horseback; there are ample opportunities for water activities; fishing activities are closely controlled on the island; a dhow bobs on the water, playing host to seabirds; epic snorkelling opportunities abound throughout the archipelago
A synonym for blue
While it may not include the standard African safari “fare”, there is no question that a sojourn to Bazaruto Archipelago is defined by a celebration of its spectacular and diverse wildlife. The intoxicating thaumaturgy of water and light accentuates the stunning seascapes supporting rare and endemic marine creatures.
There are no one-size-fits-all or universal criteria for predicting and mitigating human-wildlife conflict. However, understanding long-term trends associated with different types and frequencies of conflict incidents is essential in designing mitigation policies and allocating resources. New research from Namibia examines human-wildlife conflict between 2001 and 2019 to identify some of these crucial trends.
Of the total 112,165 human-wildlife conflict incidents (HWIs) reported across the country, livestock depredation was the most common type of conflict (83%), and elephants were the species most associated with conflict incidents (22%). However, the researchers found marked variation between regions, as well as the significant impact of various factors, including distance to the nearest protected area, geography, conservancy size and, in particular, both annual and average monthly rainfall.
In arid north-western parts of Namibia, where extensive pastoralism is the main agricultural activity, livestock depredation and infrastructure damage ranked highest in frequency. In the wetter regions of the northeast, where higher rainfall and productive soils favour crop production, HWIs were more associated with crop raiding and attacks on people. A total of 1415 “problem animals” were killed or trapped across 79 Namibian community conservancies from 2001 to 2019.
The authors point to an overall lack of national spatio-temporal data as hampering the identification, targeting and prioritising of hotspots of wildlife damage throughout Africa. Given that resources to mitigate such conflict are invariably limited, they must be appropriately allocated to reduce livelihood losses. Hence mapping negative impacts and identifying drivers of high levels of damage is an essential first step in apportioning resources in a species- and area-specific manner.
Though they acknowledge that humans are the principal architect of negative interactions with animals, their results indicate the extensive adverse impacts wildlife can have on people and their livelihoods. Restricting wildlife to protected areas significantly limits wildlife abundance and distribution, but a coexistence model increases the risks of negative wildlife interactions. Thus, the study concludes that the “goal… is to both monitor these interactions and attempt to mitigate through appropriately scaled and affordable interventions which will improve tolerance towards wildlife and conservation objectives as a whole”.
An aerial view of the sandy red dunes of the Namib Desert, Namibia. Photographer of the Year 2020 entrant
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Disappearing lions + Botswana safari SADC special + Mara champagne safari
Africa’s disappearing lions have been the subject of animated discussion for years, but just how dire is the situation? Pretty dire: scientists have found that there has been a staggering 75% decline in Africa’s lion populations in the past five decades. In our first story below, we examine the disappearing habitats and disconnection leading to dwindling lion numbers.
Our second story below is for residents of the Southern African Development Community planning their summer holidays. Botswana is a dream destination for safari fanatics – though a luxurious lodge holiday here is often out of reach for those in its neighbouring countries. But that’s about to change as we make your Botswana safari fantasy come true. We’ve put together our guide of jaw-dropping special offers and staggeringly low prices for SADC residents.
If you’re a non-SADC resident, do check out our special offers and tasty packages in our Travel Desk below – we endeavour to make your safari dreams come true.
Nose-picking is a terrible human habit, is it not? There is little as off-putting as the sight of a finger venturing into the nostril in pursuit of something unmentionable.
Yet here’s the thing about rhinotillexomania – there appears to be some inexplicable impulse to do it. And human beings are not alone in this. Did you know that 12 primate species have been observed picking their noses? The most recent example was an aye-aye, filmed taking this pursuit to new extremes with its elongated finger.
Apparently, this multispecies commonality tells us that this “bad habit” may have some functional and even advantageous role. Make of that what you will…
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
We’ve put together two dream safaris that will have the worries of reality melting away, as you sink your toes into soft white beach sand or sip on bubbles overlooking the savannah.
Maasai Mara champagne safari – 6 days: This signature Maasai Mara safari offers supreme luxury, a private vehicle, hot-air ballooning and champagne breakfasts. And your huge room has magnificent views as far as the eye can see.
Mozambique beach holiday – 8 days:
SPECIAL OFFER! It’s time to SPOIL YOURSELF and recharge those batteries, and there is no better destination than Mozambique’s pristine beaches and warm ocean. 8 days of exclusive barefoot luxury.
Adventure with AG
Maggie Nunley and her partner are currently on a cross-continental adventure with AG, celebrating their honeymoon. The couple started their adventure in Mgahinga National Park in Uganda and moved on to Maasai Mara National Reserve in Kenya. They are finishing off their African holiday with a trip to Chale Island off Kenya’s Diani Beach to deflate in the warm waters of the Indian Ocean.
The honeymooners’ search for gorillas in Mgahinga proved fruitful, when they came across these majestic giants.
WATCH: What happens when a fearsome honey badger meets a mole snake – a powerful constrictor – on the battle field? A short video shedding light into the tenacity of these two species (02:10). Click here to watch
Dida, a well-known Tsavo tusker, has died of natural causes. Photos courtesy Tsavo Trust / @nicholashaller
Another big tusker has fallen – this time, the matriarch of Tsavo East. Dida, one of the largest female tuskers recorded in Africa, has died of natural causes in Tsavo National Park, as announced by the Tsavo Trust and Kenya Wildlife Services (KWS) this week.
“Dida, the area’s best-loved matriarch and the greatest repository of many decades worth of knowledge, has sadly passed,” announced Tsavo Trust in its statement.
Dida, 60-65 years old at the time of her death, was well known for her tusks that stretched right to the ground – a noteworthy occurrence in a female elephant.
“Dida died naturally of old age; in fact, she surprised us all,” continued Tsavo Trust’s eulogy. “She lived longer than many of us thought she would. To us, allowing an elephant to live its full life is something we are very proud of.”
KWS shared an image on Facebook of Dida’s decomposed remains as discovered by the team. KWS added that “those who got to know her through pictures and videos, as well as those who had the exquisite pleasure of meeting her in person, will remember her”.
Dida was well known for her tusks that stretched right to the ground – a rare occurrence for female elephants. KWS shared an image of Dida’s decomposed remains on Facebook. Photos courtesy Tsavo Trust / @nicholashaller / Keith Hellyer
In its statement on the passing of the Tsavo queen, Tsavo Trust said that Dida was the true embodiment of an iconic cow. “Over the course of her long life, she shepherded her herd through many difficult times. She was the inspiration for documentarians and the pull for tourists.”
While Africa’s last remaining tuskers are under threat, they are given their best chance for survival in protected areas such as Tsavo, where elephants are closely monitored for protection against poaching and injury. Kenya does not permit trophy hunting, unlike countries such as Botswana and Zimbabwe, where Africa’s last giant tuskers are targeted as prized trophies (follow the links for two examples). The Tsavo Trust’s Big Tusker Project and KWS provide aerial and ground support to collect data and respond to imminent threats to the living legends. This ongoing presence is a significant deterrent to poachers and other illegal activity.
Today, nine giant bull tuskers remain in Tsavo. There are also 27 emerging tuskers and three remaining iconic cow tuskers on the Tsavo Trust and KWS Tusker database.
Africa’s disappearing lions have been the subject of animated discussion for years, but just how dire is the situation?
Scientists now believe they have the answer: in five decades, the continent’s lion populations have declined by 75%. This according to research recently published by the University of Oxford’s Wildlife Conservation Research Unit (WildCRU).
The authors set out to establish a baseline lion population estimate and examine historic landscape connectivity for 1970 as a comparison point to assess the conservation of the species. They explain that conservation is subject to what has been termed a “shifting baseline syndrome”. In other words, current conservation efforts are often centred around present-day geographical ranges and population estimates. However, underestimating historical declines or trends could, in turn, underestimate extinction risk.
Disappearing habitats, dwindling lions
Habitat loss and fragmentation due to human population growth and agricultural expansion are among the most significant threats facing most terrestrial vertebrate families. Species surviving in fragmented and poorly connected habitats are more vulnerable to loss of genetic diversity, inbreeding depression, disease and stochastic events (such as drought). Lions are considered an umbrella species, meaning that conservation efforts aimed at their protection indirectly confer protection on other sympatric (co-occurring) species. They are also a charismatic representative of the range collapse experienced by many of Africa’s large mammals. Once widespread across Africa, previous research indicates that lions have experienced an 85% reduction in range since the early 16th century.
Reconstructing historical populations and distributions is a challenge facing many large-mammal scientists, as records are often scant and generalised. The authors selected the period around 1970 for their baseline for several reasons, including the existence of credible and detailed sources of information on lion ranges and populations. Furthermore, human population and development have burgeoned during the 50-year-period between 1970 and the present day, with the sub-Saharan human population doubling between 1975 and 2001. Using available information to construct a population density map of lion distribution, they derived an estimated population of 92,054 lions across the continent in 1970. At last count in 2016, the total surviving lion population was estimated at around 23,000 individuals (though experts believe it may now be under 20,000). This equates to a decline of 70,000 individuals – approximately 1,400 lions per year over five decades.
The researchers also examined lion subpopulations by area. Those in the Congo Basin have suffered most severely, and this subpopulation has been all but extirpated. From an estimated 1,600 lions in 1970, around 211 individuals remain – a decline of 93%. Similarly, the West and Central African subpopulations have declined by 87% (from 1,600 to fewer than 200). (The plight of the West African lion was recognised on the IUCN Red List in 2015 when they were listed as Critically Endangered.) Southern and East African subpopulations have fared slightly better but still declined by 73% and 65%, respectively. Southern populations declined from 36,000 to around 9,800, and East African from 31,000 to approximately 11,000.
Remaining lion habitats are important but understanding the landscape connectivity between these is a vital aspect of lion conservation. The researchers analysed the landscapes within lion range in terms of resistance to animal movement, accounting for various environmental and anthropogenic variables (such as rivers, towns, farms and roads). This information was used to calculate the relative probability of animal movement to compare connectivity in 1970 to the present day.
In 1970, much of the existing lion habitat was well connected, apart from already fragmented habitats in the West and Central regions. For the most part, lion range was contiguous, with the potential for a high degree of dispersal movement across the landscape. Today, lions occupy just 13% of their maximum historical range (66% of the 1970 range), with the most severe range loss having occurred in the Congo Basin and the West and Central region. These regions have experienced a “catastrophic collapse in range and habitat connectivity in the last 50 years” – with fewer, smaller, and more widely isolated patches of core and non-core lion habitat. Loss of connectivity was less severe in southern and Eastern African regions but significant – around 50% of previously connected habitat was lost in the intervening five decades. The remaining core areas of habitat are centred around larger protected areas.
What implications does such research have for the future of lion conservation, given that human population expansion is inevitable? The authors emphasise that even if core protected areas are secure, a lack of connectivity will result in a decline in the genetic diversity of remaining lion populations. The protection of existing wildlife corridors is critical. They also suggest that intensive meta-population (as practised in smaller wildlife areas in South Africa) may be appropriate for irretrievably isolated habitats, such as those in West and Central Africa.
Though the damage done to the lions of Africa may never be fully recoverable, the researchers suggest that it is not too late to secure wildlife corridors “through integrated land use planning exercises, implementation of human-wildlife conflict mitigation strategies and enhancement of sustainable, wildlife-based livelihoods”.
“Habitat conversion and burgeoning human populations are fragmenting natural habitat across Africa,” says lead author Professor Andrew Loveridge. “Our work on African lions shows that this process of fragmentation and population decline has accelerated over the last 50 years and provides a baseline against which to measure population recovery or decline. Our future conservation efforts need to halt habitat loss and work to preserve the remaining habitat corridors linking core populations.”
Sundowners overlooking the Indian Ocean along the Garden Route of South Africa. Lekkerwater Beach Lodge, De Hoop Nature Reserve.
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Tragedy in Kasungu + Selati Game Reserve + cross-country SA safari
It’s complicated.
Yes, safari lodges in popular, easy-to-reach areas create enormous conservation benefits locally, BUT the lodge tourism industry does little for the vast remote areas where Africa’s biodiversity is being stripped away at an alarming rate. Yes, some trophy hunting operations do safeguard remote ecosystems for a while from the threats of habitat loss and human-wildlife conflict – BUT what good is that if they leave for more lucrative opportunities after having shot out the free-roaming lions, leopards and big-tusked elephants? Botswana’s European Union-enforced veterinary fences, which surround the Okavango Delta, have helped generate huge wealth for the export beef industry BUT shredded migrating wildebeest and zebra wildlife populations. Translocating elephants to areas denuded by poaching is a good thing for elephants – BUT not always for local people (our story below refers). I could go on, but hopefully, you get my point. If solutions so often peddled on social media for Africa’s conservation issues are simple, then perhaps their promoters don’t understand the problems?
Our mission is to help you understand the real issues that impact our wildlife and people. Celebrate the good stuff, but also be aware of the issues that play out all day, every day, at ground level. Safari njema!
Bush & beach, Pinotage to predators – South Africa – 12 days:
We’ve lined up an iconic safari for travellers who want to enjoy the best of everything South Africa has to offer. This safari offers exceptional Greater Kruger Big-5 game viewing; sophisticated wining and dining in Cape Town and its nearby winelands; the best of the mother city’s sandy white beaches and iconic landmarks; and a road trip spent enjoying the cultural delights of the Lowveld’s Panorama Route. Don’t miss out!
Botswana’s salt pans – special offers for SADC residents:
SADC residents – have you ever dreamt of visiting Botswana’s vast salt pans? This festive season we’re offering incredible special offers to top Botswana destinations at up to 75% discount!
– Visit Meno a Kwena, overlooking the Boteti River, from R3,045pps (70% saving)
– Head to Migration Expeditions in Nxai Pan from US$345pps (15% saving)
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
AG strives to celebrate and support conservation successes. But conservation is a complex web of biodiversity, politics and socio-economics, where difficult choices require a diverse approach.
In August, we reported on the successful cross-country translocation of 263 elephants from Liwonde National Park into Kasungu National Park, both in Malawi. But tripling the population of elephants in Kasungu – a partly fenced area – has had tragic consequences for some of the park’s neighbours. Gail Thomson has penned a heart-breaking account on the human-elephant conflict resulting from Kasungu’s growing elephant population. See our first story below.
In our second story, we explore an alternative South African safari destination for nature enthusiasts in search of seclusion and unique experiences. Just outside Greater Kruger, Selati Game Reserve is a Big-5 haven, and home to the rarest cycad on Earth – the Lillie cycad. The reserve is also home to specials like sable, and offers guests the chance to take part in conservation activities. Read more about magical Selati in our second story below.
I hesitated somewhat with this week’s fact on the basis that I like snakes, and I dislike feeding into the hysteria that surrounds them. But did you know that scientists estimate nearly 9,000 people die from snake bites every year in Mozambique? And that is an underestimate.
It is an enormous number and is probably echoed across many African rural areas. So as tempting as it may be to emphasise the principle that snakes are more afraid of us than we are of them and should be protected (which is, of course, true), we also need to acknowledge the impact they have on people’s lives. The same applies to any human-wildlife conflict. Rural populations don’t need trite platitudes or condescending implications that their lives are worth less than those of animals. They need resources – in this case, improved medical infrastructure, training and access to antivenom.
And if having read this, you are keen on contributing to this process (albeit in South Africa), you can download our app and donate to Save the Snakes.
WATCH: Find out why Kenya is still top of many an ardent safari-goer’s list in this brief celebration of the quintessential Kenyan safari (00:45). Click here to watch
Human-elephant conflict: Communities near Kasungu face tragic losses following the introduction of new elephant herds to the national park
This article was written by Gail Thomson for the Community Leaders Network of Southern Africa, with financial support from Resource Africa, Southern Africa.
John Kayedzeka, 35, is out working in his field on the 16 September 2022, preparing it for planting later this year. His field, about 3km from Kasungu National Park, Malawi, is the main source of food for his family – a wife and two school-going children – so he works the field from the early morning hours.
Suddenly he hears shouting coming from a nearby village – perhaps people are having a loud argument? He looks up and to his surprise sees a herd of elephants moving rapidly through the bush in front of him. They are being chased back into Kasungu by the park’s rangers, who have been alerted to their presence in a nearby village. He watches with interest, but keeps a respectful distance.
What John doesn’t know is that this is not the only herd being chased back into Kasungu. Suddenly, the bush behind him erupts with the sounds of trumpeting and ground thumping. Out in the open, his only option is to run. But the elephants quickly catch up with him and knock him to the ground. He loses consciousness after the first few blows and a few seconds later his lifeless body is trampled into the ground.
Conservation and human-elephant conflict
This tragic story is not unique. Hundreds of people are killed every year by elephants and other dangerous wild animals in Africa. Yet the backstory to this incident is different to the usual human-elephant conflict occurring across the continent. Sadly, John Kayedzeka’s death was preventable.
John’s family lives in Malawi’s ‘bread basket’ or Central Region, where millions of people rely on the yields of maize and other crops for survival. Due to the high productivity of the land, this is one of the most densely populated regions in Malawi, which itself is densely populated – 20 million people living in 118,480km2.
This makes setting aside land for conservation challenging. Kasungu is wedged between subsistence farmers in Malawi to the east and those in Zambia to the west. This 2,316km2 park experienced high levels of poaching in the last few decades and was therefore performing far below its conservation and tourism potential. Elephant poaching resulted in the park’s population plummeting from 1,200 elephants in the 1970s to an all-time low of 40 in 2014.
The 2,316km2 Kasungu National Park experienced high levels of poaching in the last few decades. After the introduction of new elephant herds to the park, incidences of human-elephant conflict are on the rise
In 2015, Malawi’s Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW) entered a partnership with the International Fund for Animal Welfare (IFAW) to address the poaching problem and improve park infrastructure. Tightening up park security during the past seven years has halted and reversed population declines of elephants and other animals. By 2022, there were an estimated 120 elephants in Kasungu. Since the elephant and other wildlife populations were still well below carrying capacity, Kasungu was identified as a potential destination for animal translocations.
Meanwhile, Liwonde National Park in Southern Malawi started experiencing the opposite problem. In the same year that IFAW started working in Kasungu, African Parks partnered with the Malawian government to manage Liwonde. By reducing poaching and reintroducing some species, African Parks restored wildlife populations in this 548km2 park. But they soon realised the need for an electric fence around the whole park, to reduce human-wildlife conflict and poaching. African Parks immediately began constructing an electric fence to keep wildlife inside the park and have since completed the 140km fencing project. In response to queries, African Parks spokesperson Carli Flemmer explains, “whilst all parks managed by African Parks in Malawi are fenced, this is not a perfect solution, and breakouts of elephants can and do still occur despite best efforts. These breakouts are a threat to human life and crops. Reinforcements and innovations in fencing technology are an ongoing effort. Some of these innovations are proving very successful.”
Consequences of a rising elephant population
Once adequately protected, elephants overpopulate relatively small, fenced reserves – making Liwonde an ideal source of elephants for other protected areas. Translocating 263 elephants from Liwonde to Kasungu, therefore, makes good conservation sense. But tripling the population of elephants in a partially fenced area has had severe consequences for some of the park’s neighbours.
Malidadi Langa, representing Kasungu Wildlife Conservation for Community Development Association (KAWICCODA), reflects on the consequences of the translocation for his community and what could have been done to prevent it: “With hindsight, maybe we [the stakeholders] should have completed the fence before translocating the elephants and other animals. Maybe we rushed the translocation. Maybe we could have better prepared for possible conflict incidents. But we cannot just look back on mistakes – we now have to do something to help widows and orphans who face an uncertain future.”
When contacted for comment, representatives of both DNPW and IFAW said they had never agreed to fence the entire eastern side of Kasungu. Patricio Ndadzela, IFAW Country Director for Malawi and Zambia, states, “IFAW has funded the construction of approximately 40km of fencing and has committed to repairing and extending a further 25km of the fence in the coming months along Kasungu’s eastern boundary in Malawi.” Following this plan, half of the park’s eastern boundary will be fenced when this project is completed, while the western (Zambian) side will remain unfenced as a corridor between Kasungu and Lukusuzi National Park in Zambia.
“Since there were [previously] so few elephants in Kasungu,” explains Langa, “people living on the border had experienced few crop losses before the translocation and had let their guard down in terms of vigilance against dangerous wild animals”. DNPW reported at the time that the elephants were likely attempting to trace their route back to Liwonde. Without a fence to stop the elephants, the consequences were lethal. Shortly after the first group of elephants were brought in, two people were trampled to death by bull elephants in separate incidents. One of them, Collins Chisi from Jala village in the Chisembere area, has left behind his wife and three children (14, 16 and 18 years old) whose futures are now uncertain. The other victim, Joseph Kapalamula (27) from Nason village, Mchinji district, leaves behind a wife and two young children. The elephants were subsequently euthanised by park rangers responding to the incidents.
Not long thereafter, 72-year-old Tadeyo Phiri of Mndengwe village in the Mwase area was knocked to the ground by an elephant while he was collecting thatching grass. Although he escaped alive, his injuries are severe – he cannot walk and struggles to breathe – and he cannot afford decent medical care. Phiri was therefore discharged from hospital and sent home. Five of his children are still at school, but their now-disabled father cannot work to provide for them.
On 17 August 2022, a few weeks after the translocation, elephants broke into a house where Sikwiza Mwale (33) stored several 50-kg bags of maize that she had harvested and shelled – her entire harvest for the season. After breaking down the wall of her house, the elephants ate seven of the eight bags (350 kg of maize), leaving her and her three children with too little food for the coming year.
Human-elephant conflict has brought tragic loss to communities surrounding Kasungu. Clockwise from top left: Elephants broke down the wall of Sikwiza Mwale’s house and consumed the majority of the family’s maize harvest for the season; the Mwale family in front of their broken house; the family of Joseph Kapalamula, who was trampled to death by a bull elephant; Tadeyo Phiri was knocked to the ground by an elephant while he was collecting thatching grass, leaving him disabled. Photos supplied by KAWICCODA
John Kayedzeka’s death is thus just the latest of a series of incidents since elephants were translocated to Kasungu. John was in the wrong place at the wrong time and had no chance of escaping an agitated herd of elephants hurtling towards him like a freight train.
“These stories are heart-breaking,” says Langa, “but they are made even worse because none of the parties involved in moving these elephants is stepping up to help the community.” According to Malawian wildlife policies, no compensation is offered for damages or loss of life caused by wild animals. In the case of Tadeyo Phiri, the only assistance he has had is transport to the hospital provided by DNPW.
“When we ask for more help for Tadeyo Phiri, park officials just say that they don’t have money,” says Siwinda Chimowa, Chairperson of KAWICCODA, “yet clearly there was a lot of money available to bring these elephants in the first place.”
DNPW and IFAW both say that a certain level of support is provided when incidents occur. Patricio Ndadzela, IFAW’s Country Director for Malawi and Zambia, says “Malawi’s DNPW has provided one-off condolence support [to] the bereaved families. Under the National Parks and Wildlife Act of Malawi, the Government does not provide compensation either for injury or death. However, IFAW, through the traditional leadership of the Senior Chief for Kasungu district, has been exploring appropriate support for the bereaved families as is required by the cultural traditions of the district. This will ensure equitable means for their loved ones.”
Director of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW), Brighton K. Kumchedwa says, “each time there is such an accident or death, we assist with a requirement such as transport. [In cases of] death, we have assisted with the basics like food and a coffin, but not [with] compensation per se.”
Since the government cannot assist, Chimowa calls on IFAW, African Parks and their funding agencies to assist. “We understand the government policy of no compensation,” he explains, “but surely the non-state partners who funded this venture can provide some financial assistance until the fence is finished?”
In community meetings held before the translocation, DNPW promised that the communities would be protected using a combination of efforts. All of the elephant herds would be collared, ranger numbers would be increased and strategically positioned, and a helicopter would be on standby to help rangers find and herd elephants back into the park before they could harm anyone. While IFAW confirms that these measures have been put in place, Chimowa says that not enough has been done to prevent human-elephant conflict due to the translocation, insisting he has seen neither increased ranger numbers nor the helicopter.
In response to queries, DNPW’s Kumchedwa states that in “the majority of cases, the deaths or injuries have been a result of communities mobbing these elephants once they stray in the communities.” He suggested that because people were unaware of how dangerous elephants could be, “some people have been injured or killed as they try to take selfies with these animals. This is the case with the one who was severely injured as well as the last death,” says Kumchedwa. DNPW and IFAW say they are trying to rectify this situation through community awareness and education campaigns regarding elephant behaviour and human-elephant conflict.
Siwinda disputes these claims: “I met with Tadeyo Phiri after the attack – an elderly, poor man who, as far as I know, does not even own a smartphone.” He continues, “After speaking with the families and victims, I highly doubt that either he or John Kayedzeka were trying to get close to the elephants or mobbing them. In John’s case, the elephants were being chased by park rangers, not by the community.” Kumchedwa of DNPW acknowledges that in the case of John Kayedzeka, elephants were being chased back into the park by a team of rangers when he was killed.
IFAW’s involvement in Kasungu started as part of a cross-border project combating wildlife crime, implemented with funding from the US Agency for International Development (USAID) that came to an end in May this year before the elephant translocation took place.
Since that project ended, IFAW continues to provide technical support to DNPW on priority issues around Kasungu National Park. But the minimal financial assistance received for these incidents of human-elephant conflict thus far contrasts sharply with the recently tightened laws regarding wildlife crime. If someone is caught poaching in Malawi or engaging in illegal wildlife trade, they are liable for up to 30 years in prison with no option of a fine for serious offenders, or heavy fines and/or jail time for lesser offenders. While DNPW’s policy not to compensate victims of human-wildlife conflict is similar to those of other countries across Africa, John Kayedzeka’s case (and arguably the others mentioned here, too) is different. The elephants were brought into a partially fenced park, John was not harassing or trying to take photos of the elephants, and park rangers inadvertently caused the situation.
Langa further notes that there is no formal mechanism through which communities can report and have their grievances or complaints regarding human-elephant conflict addressed. According to him, the current situation requires a functional and transparent grievance redress mechanism for reporting, resolution, and swift feedback showing how the authorities deal with human-elephant conflict incidents.
While deaths and serious injuries make it into local newspapers, crop and livestock losses are likely to go unreported and uncompensated. This is particularly concerning in light of Malawi’s current food insecurity caused by a combination of climatic shocks leading to low crop yields, rising living costs due to global economic disruptions and national inflation rates. 2.6 million people are currently experiencing a food crisis, and a further 6.5 million are under food stress. These figures are expected to increase to 3.8 million in crisis and 6.7 million under stress in the coming months. In the context of rising food and living costs, the Mwale family’s situation is desperate after losing nearly 90% of their harvest to elephants.
Despite their understandable frustration, the community is looking for solutions rather than someone to blame for the current situation. KAWICCODA is making a few reasonable requests of those involved in the translocation and current management of Kasungu National Park (both state and non-state actors):
Prioritise fence construction on the eastern side of the park and set a deadline for completing the entire 125km fence line;
Set up a platform where communities can report their losses resulting from wildlife;
Provide financial assistance to all of the families who have suffered thus far due to the elephant translocation, and commit to providing such assistance until the fence is complete; and
In cases where elephants get out of the park, alert people to the problem before attempting to chase the elephants back into the park.
Bringing elephants and other wildlife to Kasungu is not a bad idea from a conservation and tourism perspective. DNPW has promised to share tourism revenue with neighbouring communities, and KAWICCODA reports that they have already received small amounts of money from the park. Consequently, the people living next to Kasungu are not against reinvigorating the park through wildlife translocations, but human lives are too high a price to pay for future tourism revenues. Hopefully, this call for help will result in practical solutions to prevent further loss of life.
It’s a humid afternoon in the Lowveld of South Africa, and I’m straining my ears, willing the sound of a vehicle to emerge. Along with a dozen nature enthusiasts, I’m waiting for the conservation team to load up a darted cheetah due for a tracking-collar change. Not too far from where we’re standing, in the centre of Selati Game Reserve, we will soon have the opportunity to witness a vet and team of ecologists monitor the cheetah as they undertake the collaring process. As far as wildlife experiences go, this one-on-one encounter with a big cat tops the list.
But the conservation experiences offered to guests of Selati Game Reserve are not the only attraction putting this reserve on the map. With 360-degree vistas dotted with granite koppies, the opportunity to experience the Big Five and special species such as sable antelope and black rhino, and unique access to a population of Lillie cycads (which grow nowhere else on the planet), this reserve has much to offer.
Overview
Selati Game Reserve may be the South African Lowveld’s best-kept secret. While visitors seeking Big Five safaris to the Limpopo province are inclined towards choosing the Kruger National Park and Greater Kruger reserves as destinations, adventure enthusiasts in search of seclusion and rarities off the beaten track will find great contentment spending a few days in this reserve.
Selati operates with a low-development philosophy, and limited vehicles are allowed in the reserve. The resulting wilds offer an unparalleled experience of raw wilderness and rewarding solitude in the heart of the bushveld.
Heading to the south-eastern side of the reserve, a two-track road opens up to a row of koppies forming the small range known as the “Knuckles”. Passing these, one soon reaches the Lillie Mountains
A river runs through it
Selati Game Reserve garners its name from the perennial Ga-Selati River (or Selati River), which springs from the Wolkberg Mountains, heading east to cut through the reserve before meeting the Olifants River near Phalaborwa. Balule Nature Reserve, part of Greater Kruger, lies just 6km southeast of the reserve. The area is characterised by immense granite outcrops offering incredible views from all corners of the reserve, and pockets of chartreuse indigenous vegetation.
The Ga-Selati River cuts through the reserve
The reserve was officially proclaimed in 1993 when several landowners in zones formerly dedicated to cattle farming recognised the value of preserving the area’s natural heritage. The reserve managers quickly set about repopulating the reserve with species endemic to the area, reintroducing white rhino and other species acquired from surrounding farms and the Kruger National Park. A focus on sable breeding for the years following the establishment of the reserve allowed for a robust income, facilitating the restoration of a true wilderness area. As the years went by, a few more neighbouring farms were incorporated, and the reserve grew to include the Lillie mountain range and 26km of the Ga-Selati River. Over the years, elephants were reintroduced to the area, as were a pride of lions (where before free-ranging lions had often frequented the reserve), black rhino (and accompanying sophisticated anti-poaching operations) and disease-free buffalo. An elephant immunocontraception program is implemented on the reserve to limit the population growth of these animals.
The lion population in the reserve is thriving; granite outcrops offer incredible views; the reserve hosts disease-free buffalo; elephants have also been reintroduced to the reserve; the perennial Ga-Selati River runs through the reserve, though it is dry for most of the year
Wildlife in abundance
While Selati is a Big Five destination, other fascinating wildlife also populates the reserve. Over 50 mammal species are present. What at times appears to be impenetrable bushveld gives way to pleasant paths unveiling elephants and giraffes at every corner. Cheetah, black and white rhino, spotted hyena, hippo, Nile crocodile and a large population of free-roaming sable antelope can be found in the reserve. Eland roam the expansive bushveld as leopard prowl the plains. Delightful rare species include Sharpe’s grysbok, mountain reedbuck, brown hyena, pangolin and Cape clawless otter.
An established pack of nine wild dogs (painted wolves) were also recently introduced. Over the years, introductions and management of animal populations have been conservative to complement efforts to restore the veld along the perennially dry Ga-Selati River. Similarly, artificial water points are strategically placed to prevent overexploitation of the veld and enhance wildlife viewing opportunities.
Over 315 bird species have been identified here, including Arnot’s chat, thick-billed cuckoo and Verreaux’s eagle (you can find a nesting pair in the rocky outcrops). There is also an established vulture restaurant which feeds vultures regularly, contributing to their conservation.
Giraffes are often seen when on game drives; a large population of free-roaming sable antelope is found here; the reserve’s cheetah population forms part of the EWT’s Metapopulation Project; a young male lion spotted alongside the road; elephants are a common sighting in the reserve
Lay of the land
Climbing the steep rocky path to one of the highest boulders atop the Lillie Mountains, I hear a paradise flycatcher flittering overhead, breaking an otherwise eery silence. After about 10 minutes of vigorous climbing, as the canopies grow dense, the boulders grow tall, and I start to lose my breath, we reach a temporary summit. “Here it is!” declares our guide Jenni. There before me, in an unassuming cove of boulders and shrubbery, is a 3.5m tall Lillie cycad (Encephalartos dyerianos). Within a few more metres, the cycads are jutting out of rocky crevices and groves of undergrowth at every corner. Here in the south of the reserve, the Lillie mountain range provides ideal habitat for the rare cycads.
Plant lovers will delight in the intimate encounters of the critically endangered woody plant, found nowhere else on earth but on this lone granite hill at 700m above sea level. Thankfully, the population here is guarded by anti-poaching teams which prevent the theft of these precious specimens. The cycads line the deep groves amidst the boulders en route to a steep hill offering views from horizon to horizon. Scattered across this hill are dozens upon dozens of these beauties, some only ankle high, others with stems stretching 4m into the sky. Selati may be a haven for seekers of diverse wildlife, but for dendrophiles, this reserve is the Rosetta Stone.
A large Lillie cycad specimen (Encephalartos dyerianos) up in the Lillie Mountains
The climate in this area is dry, with a mean rainfall of 530mm and average annual temperatures exceeding 18°C. The reserve’s rich and diverse geological substructures include the Murchison Greenstone belt in the northwest of the reserve and are some of the oldest rock formations on the planet. Three more granite and pegmatite formations are present, including the Willie, Lekkersmaak, and Mashishimale gneisses.
Selati plays home to six different plant communities; the most fascinating of these is the vast range of woody plant populations (including Lillie’s cycad). Mixed Combretum veld dominates the tops of mountains and hills, while Terminalia sericea trees flourish on the poor soils associated with the natural seepage lines. Mopane woodland dots the soils along the drainages and lower lying areas, while bushwillow and Vachellia species engulf the wide-open spaces.
Selati’s characteristic granite outcrops; two distinguished Lillie cycads; a giant nyala tree; an icon of the African safari – the umbrella thorn; the view from the high boulders atop the Lillie Mountains
Sundowner spots abound
A sundowner is the highlight of any safari, and Selati offers a platter of sumptuous sunset-viewing spots. Joubert’s lookout provides a 180-degree view over Galon Ridge. Junior’s Platform makes for an epic viewpoint to watch the sunrise, and groups can book the Outlook for elegant sundowners atop a hill. Trips to the Lillie Mountains in the afternoon allow views from one of the reserve’s best viewpoints. Thrill seekers can scramble over steep boulders and jump stomach-churning gaps, while the more mild-hearted can gently meander over flatter rocks while examining wooded trails and the cycads dotted through these surroundings. But a mild clamber up to the highest point is well worth the adrenalin rush, as the view from here, 730m above sea level, is breathtaking.
Galon Ridge can be seen from Joubert’s lookout; Joubert’s lookout is a great sunrise spot; the Outlook viewpoint can be reserved for elegant and private sundowners; sunrise over Selati; heading up the steep path to the Lillie cycads
Explore & Stay
There was a time in the Lowveld when our predecessors unwillingly met wildlife face to face, mostly choosing to avoid these encounters at all costs. But thrill-seekers craving a primitive taste of the ancient continent need only let the mind wander slightly to envision walking in the ancient footsteps of explorers. Walking excursions in Selati provide an uninterrupted experience of the surroundings, allowing walkers to rekindle the roots of the past by traversing a wilderness trail in the reserve and exploring myriad paths through tall grasses and clumped Vachallia species. Experienced guides lead hikers through the untouched bushveld, carefully allowing visitors intimate experiences with wildlife. Guests can choose between sleeping out under the stars or spending the night at one of Selati’s lodges.
Experience Selati’s 180-degree vistas dotted with granite koppies
Customised mountain-biking trails are also available, stopping over at either one of Selati’s lodges or safari camps over three days. With various projects linked to the World Wildlife Fund and the Endangered Wildlife Trust taking place here, such as the Black Rhino Range Expansion Project and Cheetah Metapopulation Project, guests are also offered the opportunity to take part in conservation experiences. Whether being present to witness the collaring of a cheetah, the feeding of predators in the boma awaiting release into the reserve, or even the dehorning or notching of rhinos, these activities will present a once-in-a-lifetime experience for many visitors. Witnessing a cheetah collaring up close is probably one of the most thrilling experiences of my lifetime. The collaring was a success and the data stemming from the monitoring of this cheetah is invaluable to the Cheetah Metapopulation Project.
While private landowners make up the majority of the reserve, there are three properties open to tourists, which feature comfortable lodges. Dunn’s Camp, neighbouring the sublime Ga-Selati River; Klipspringer, a whimsical retreat for families overlooking a waterhole; and luxurious Lillie Lodge, perched atop a granite outcrop in the south of the reserve, all offer intimate experiences of the surrounds.
As a low-development reserve, limited vehicles are permitted to use the roads and self-driving is not allowed (aside from travelling to your lodge destination). Tourists visiting lodges in the area have access to the road networks throughout the reserve via guided game drives on open game vehicles. The unobtrusive road network traverses wide corners of the vast reserve and consists of dirt roads – many of which require 4×4 vehicles.
Walking excursions in Selati provide an uninterrupted experience of the surroundings; the extensive network of roads can be explored on game drives; customised mountain bike trails are on offer; Lillie Lodge perches amongst the koppies; guests can take part in conservation experiences, such as rhino notching or dehorning, and cheetah collaring
Final thoughts
For those seeking a unique bushveld experience, combined with spotting the Big Five, close encounters with wildlife, rare endemics, intimate accommodation and rugged wilderness in a quiet reserve on the road less travelled, Selati is the answer.
Want to go on a Selati or Greater Kruger safari? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team, scroll down to after this story.
Local Beninese women use the beach to spread lake grasses into fan-like shapes, drying them out for mat weaving. Here, guide Assou Cosme Segla lays on the mats as a size reference. Grand-Popo, Benin
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So yesterday, I was cycling the hills above the sleepy smallholder haven that is the Crags in South Africa’s Garden Route. Lizz and I unplug here for two weeks every year. A few hours into yesterday’s meander, I met up with two locals who showed me some of their favourite forest tracks. One, a retired gent, has purchased a few smallholdings and is on a mission to force nut farming to work in an area too humid for that particular agricultural pursuit. He told me about his mission to remove that ‘scrappy bush’ (including the diverse, unique, celebrated fynbos) and replace it with regimented rows of nut trees that require intense chemical treatment and high electrified fences to prevent pilfering by humans and wildlife. A fortressed green desert. He is not a farmer and does not need to earn a living anymore, having sold his business. He just wanted something to do. The trophy nut farm is a thing amongst wealthy retired people, apparently. There goes the neighbourhood …
Meanwhile, in the bushveld town of Hoedspruit bordering the Greater Kruger, our passionate teamAG is enduring sweltering early summer temperatures – but the rain has yet to make an appearance. This is PRIME safari time – if you can stand the heat. The bushveld is cork-dry, although some of the larger trees have shed their annual flower cover for the bright green of new leaves. Eyes cast heavenward, local inhabitants await the glorious first rains …
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
We have two thrilling safaris lined up for photographic enthusiasts next year, offering up-close wildlife action and adventure. Start the discussion with us now!
Chitake Springs photographic and walking safari – 6 days:
This short, epic safari, led by two expert guides, is for the daring traveller and photographer seeking the ultimate in-your-face wildlife drama. Chitake Springs in Mana Pools National Park is a growing talking point amongst photographic guides for producing raw, untamed wildlife action. There are only 5 spots left for this safari, departing in September 2023.
Maasai Mara specialist photographic safari – 9 days:
Join us for this spectacular photographer-guided safari in the Maasai Mara. A specially modified photographer’s vehicle, off-road driving permits and the renowned big cats and Wildebeest Migration are a recipe for adventure. Join us next year in June, or August (only 2 spots left), for a once-in-a-lifetime trip.
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
At AG, we believe that cultural heritage and indigenous knowledge are powerful conservation tools.
A few weeks ago, Simon travelled to magical Arabuko-Sokoke Forest and Mida Creek on Kenya’s tropical coast, where he spent time with A Rocha Kenya – a highly effective programme using ecotourism to fund community programmes and the restoration of threatened forests. Read Simon’s inspiring account of how impactful travel can empower rural communities and boost conservation in Africa below.
If you’ve ever come across a cavernous, freshly dug hole while out walking in the African bushveld, you’ve discovered that most fantastical of features: an aardvark lair. I’ve had the pleasure of finding dozens of these dwellings while hiking grasslands, mountains and bushveld areas throughout Africa – even in nature reserves in Greater Johannesburg. But I’ve never had the fortune of seeing an aardvark in the flesh. Spotting the elusive aardvark is high up on my bucket list. Read about this keystone species and shaper of landscapes in our second story below.
We all have moments when even our native tongue fails us, and we forget a word we’ve known all our lives. Take my friend, for example, who, in a recent discussion about elephant drinking habits, referred to “elephant straws”. The word she was looking for was, of course, “trunk”, but her moment of amnesia inspired this newsletter fact-of-the-week.
Did you know that elephants suck water into their trunks at a speed of around 500 km/hour? One solid slurp will pull in three litres of water in a second. In the process, their nostrils expand in volume by 64%. However, the author was quick to emphasise that trunks are not “straws”.
WATCH: African Voices for Africa’s Forests | All across Africa, communities are pushing back against extractive industries and corporations grabbing their resources and land, by honouring indigenous methods of preserving nature and biodiversity. This short film highlights how communities are exploring nature-based solutions and climate justice to combat deforestation in Cameroon (09:01). Click here to watch
There are signs if you know what to look for… Some are obvious, like a pile of dark, freshly excavated soil or a massive entrance hole. Others are more subtle: adjacent patches of bare ground or a place where a shadow doesn’t fall quite right.
These signs hint at the existence of a network of secret tunnels, a daytime lair where one of Africa’s most fantastical animals slumbers beneath the ground: the aardvark.
The “earth pig”
The aardvark (Orycteropus afer) is one of a kind, devoid of close living relatives and the only surviving member of an entire order of animals, the Tubulidentata. Their otherworldly forms look as though they sprang straight out of the crazed imagination of an overly caffeinated fantasy writer. Giant, rabbit-like ears perch atop a bizarrely elongated head ending in a pig snout, and massive talons extend from each foot. Their stout, hunched bodies range from a dirty grey-pink to brown and thick skin is covered in a light smattering of hair. Finally, the “aardvark look” is completed by what could only be described as a giant, stumpy rat’s tail. Such an eclectic collection of features might, on paper at least, sound positively monstrous, but on the aardvark, the overall effect is somehow oddly winsome.
Of course, as is usually the case in nature, form follows function, and the aardvark’s unusual attributes are all perfectly suited to nights spent terrorising ants and termites before sleeping off a full belly in the safety of a comfortable underground den. Even the name “aardvark” is inspired by their excavation skills and subterranean habits, coming from an old Afrikaans word meaning “earth/ground pig”. The genus name “Orycteropus” translates as the “burrowing foot”.
Although they have a widespread distribution throughout much of sub-Saharan Africa, few people are afforded more than a brief glimpse of the elusive and primarily nocturnal aardvark. Their secretive natures mean that information surrounding their behaviour, particularly social dynamics, is still somewhat scant. Consequently, the aardvark has more global renown as the first word in the dictionary than a fascinating and complex mammal.
The aardvark is an elusive creature – highly secretive and hard to spot
Quick facts
Length:
1–2m
Mass:
60–80kg
Social Structure:
Solitary
Gestation:
Seven months
Conservation status:
Least concern
The nosey ones
Aardvarks subsist almost entirely on a diet of termites and ants (they are myrmecophagous), occasionally supplementing their water intake by snacking on the fruit of an aardvark cucumber. They emerge from their burrows as darkness descends (or slightly earlier during the colder, drier months) and set off searching for a meal, covering an average of around 2–5km every night. They move slowly, using their large ears and prodigious sense of smell to seek out termite and ant nests. Once located, aardvarks use their powerful claws to crack open termite mounds or dig beneath the soil, using a 30cm long tongue coated in sticky saliva to lap up the swarming insects. They will also make short work of a line of termites on the move.
Their characteristic noses are well suited to their gastronomic preferences. The tip of the snout is extremely sensitive and controlled by specialised muscles that allow it a high degree of mobility. Aardvarks, with their humongous ears and piggy snouts, also have more turbinate bones inside the nasal cavity than any other mammal, which is thought to increase the surface area for olfactory epithelium and improve their capacity to analyse scent molecules. When digging and feeding, these vulnerable nasal structures must be protected from both dirt and biting insects, and this is accomplished by a dense filter of thick nose hair and the ability to seal both nostrils tightly.
Despite some morphological and dietary similarities with New World anteaters, aardvarks and anteaters are not related, and any superficial resemblance can be attributed to convergent evolution. What sets aardvarks truly apart from any other mammal is their dental structure. The molar teeth do not have a pulp cavity or any enamel coating and instead consist of parallel tubes (hence Tubulidentata) of modified dentine held together by cementum. The sticky tongue approach to feeding means that copious amounts of sand accompany an aardvark’s meals, so the teeth wear down and are replaced continuously. However, the aardvark chews little while scoffing down tens of thousands of ants, so the muscular stomach takes over as a gizzard to further grind their food.
Dig it
Though aardvarks may have some of the keenest senses of hearing and smell on the continent, their eyesight is particularly poor. While foraging, they keep their ears pricked for approaching predators. Still, they become highly focussed when feeding, and it is surprisingly easy to creep close to a hunting aardvark unnoticed, provided one stays silent. As a result (and perhaps somewhat sensibly), they seldom stray far from a known bolt hole while feeding. When faced with a predator, their first defence is always to flee below ground. If necessary, they can dig out a tunnel up to a metre in length in less than five minutes.
However, this is not always possible, and, despite its rather bulky and cumbersome appearance, an aardvark is astonishingly fleet of foot and agile. Their long claws on shovel-like feet are formidable weapons if all else fails, and they will roll onto their backs to face a would-be attacker pointy side up.
Aardvarks dig different types of burrows: short tunnels for brief, overnight stays (“camping holes”), and dens with a straight tunnel ending in a round room and an extensive branching network with multiple entrances. Research shows that the temperatures in these tunnels fluctuate very little, acting as a warm refuge on cold days and sheltering their residents from the worst of the midsummer heat. Aardvarks move frequently, digging new dens every few days or weeks, and abandoned networks are often commandeered by warthogs, porcupines, hyenas, bats, mongooses, and even denning wild dogs (painted wolves).
Aardvarks emerge from their burrows late on winter afternoons or as darkness descends on warmer days, ready to use their large ears and powerful sense of smell to seek out termite and ant nests
The secret lives of aardvarks
The nocturnal activities of aardvarks leave behind very distinctive tracks to be discovered the following morning. Many a guide on a quiet drive or walk has pointed out a spot where an aardvark has stopped to feed, complete with claw marks and an indentation left by the tail. The guide will then invariably describe how one can tell it was a male aardvark due to two round indentations made by the scrotum. But alas! Contrary to prevalent belief, aardvarks have internal testes, and those impressions were likely left by the sizable scent glands found on both males and females.
The secretions produced by these scent glands have a profoundly pungent odour and are deliberately deposited when defecating and feeding. However, their exact function is still not fully understood. Given aardvarks’ low densities and extraordinary sense of smell, it is highly likely that these deposits offer a suitable means of indirect and long-lasting communication. Aardvarks are almost entirely solitary, but their territorial habits remain unclear. Home ranges often overlap, especially when food is plentiful, but whether or not they mark or defend territorial boundaries is unknown.
Aardvarks also likely use these scent marks as a coquettish communiqué between the sexes. Little is known about romances of aardvarks, though the male generally stays with his companion for the duration of her oestrus. Seven months later, the female gives birth to one baby belowground. Adult aardvarks may be fantastical and appealing, but it is somewhat challenging to extend such a description to their newborns. Without mincing words, newborn aardvarks are adorably ugly – pink, bald and wrinkly, with absurdly oversized feet. They are (unimaginatively) called cubs or calves. (If you have a better suggestion, they are all ears.)
After two weeks spent in the burrow’s safety, the baby begins to accompany its mother on foraging trips and will start feeding on solids some seven weeks later. By this time, it has acquired a hair covering and can now officially be described as cute. The youngster is fully weaned between three and four months old but will stay with its mother for at least a year. Occasionally, female offspring will remain with their mothers for an additional year, so it is not impossible to encounter a female with two different-aged youngsters.
As biological engineers, they shape the landscape around them
Earth shapers
As far as we know, aardvark populations are still considered stable across much of the continent, and the IUCN currently classifies them as “Least Concern”. However, there are no definitive population estimates as aardvarks are somewhat challenging to count. Due to their low densities and cryptic natures, they may be declining in some areas due to habitat loss. Like all specialist feeders, aardvarks are also particularly vulnerable to sudden population declines.
While termites and ants may seem ubiquitous, survival in extreme environments can be tremendously challenging. In the desert, for example, aardvarks undergo dramatic internal temperature changes. They have to compensate for the bitingly cold winter nights by emerging earlier in the afternoon, limiting their available feeding windows and struggling to meet metabolic requirements. During these dry months, food is scarce. After a severe drought, the authors of one particular study recorded the deaths of five of their initial six aardvark subjects. Droughts are part of typical climate patterns, but weather extremes are becoming more common, and animals like aardvarks are likely to be severely affected by climate change.
These curious creatures are a keystone species. As biological engineers, they shape the landscape around them, and their tunnels are a vital resource to a multitude of mammal, reptile, and bird species.
Arabuko-Sokoke Forest and Mida Creek on Kenya’s tropical coast near the resort town of Watamu support some of Africa’s rarest wildlife. The forest is the largest remnant of a dry coastal forest which once stretched from Somalia to Mozambique and is globally recognised for its rich biodiversity. As the wildlife fights for survival, so do the people living around the forest and creek. I had heard about a successful faith-based project that focuses on restoring threatened forests with local community members as the drivers. Intrigued, I set out to find out more.
“This is farming God’s way,” was a popular comment from the many people I encountered during my time with the A Rocha Kenya team, and, after a while, even this pantheist (or whatever the term is for my sort) saw the light. My host and founder of A Rocha Kenya – Colin Jackson – believes profoundly that the church is the sleeping giant of conservation. “Imagine if the church got each community member to plant and care for an indigenous tree!” he proffered while nonchalantly slipping a leg ring onto a tiny olive sunbird before releasing it. This got me thinking because I had never before viewed religion as a tool for conservation. After spending several heart-warming days with Colin’s team, I now do.
Ecotourism for the good of community
A Rocha Kenya runs a highly effective programme that uses ecotourism activities to provide secondary-school scholarships that meet the economic and social needs of communities living around the forest. Ecotourism funds the bursaries, and local people are taught to value and care for the forest and creek; environmental education and practical conservation activities complete the virtuous circle.
The scholarships enable local families to commit to lifestyle changes which lower their everyday impact on the forest. For example, tree nurseries of indigenous species and butterfly farming provide incentives and alternatives to illegal logging and non-sustainable fishing.
My base in the area was Mwamba Conservation Centre in the seaside town of Watamu – a rustic hostel for volunteers and tourists. Communal meals and a general all-hands-on-deck approach make this the ideal destination for single and hitched travellers wishing to get stuck into practical conservation chores while also enjoying the laid-back coastal vibe.
Mwamba Conservation Centre is a rustic hostel in Watamu, where visitors can perform practical conservation chores and enjoy the coastal vibe
Birding in Arabuko-Sokoke Forest
To fully appreciate the value of this coastal forest ecosystem, I went birding one morning in the nearby Arabuko-Sokoke National Reserve. My guide was local legend Albert Baya, another A Rocha Kenya employee. There are several highly sought-after bird species in the forest. Top of that list is the Sokoke scops-owl, which must be the cutest bird on the planet. There are a few known daytime roost sites for this tiny stunner, and we planned to head there mid-morning. First, though, we walked the forest in the early morning and managed to tick off delights such as Amani sunbird, pale batis, little yellow flycatcher, red-tailed ant-thrush, chestnut-fronted helmet-shrike, Mombasa woodpecker, coastal cisticola, Malindi pipet, southern-banded snake eagle and Fischer’s turaco. In addition, we heard Clarke’s weaver in the canopy but could not spot this elusive endemic that occurs only in a few tiny patches of forest in this area. Just think about that – this weaver occurs nowhere else in the world. We also bumped into two gorgeous golden-rumped sengis, although I only caught a glimpse as they scurried off into the dense undergrowth.
Once rising temperatures put paid to birding, we headed out to find the celebrated Sokoke scops-owl in the dense Cynometra portion of the forest. We were lucky – after leaving our vehicle, we followed a winding track for five minutes, ducked under a dense shrub and looked up into the wide-eyed stare of a pair of these gems – about 3m above me! The couple – one ginger and one grey – seemed totally non-plussed and yet unphased by our presence, and after a few minutes, they faded into snoozeville. After ecstatic but silent high-fives, we headed back to Mwamba for lunch.
A golden-rumped sengi spotted on the forest floor; a pair of Sokoke scops-owls; searching for birds in the forest
On the way back from the forest, I noticed butterfly nets hanging along a forest track (cover image). Albert explained the workings of this innovative project. Local butterfly farmers catch adult butterflies which they keep in cages for breeding purposes. The eggs hatch into caterpillars which then pupate. The pupae are sold internationally to butterfly parks for display to the public – who knew? Some of the butterflies are returned to the forest after a breeding cycle. This farming has no noticeable impact on butterfly numbers, whereas the practice is demonstrably successful in protecting this tract of forest. It’s a straightforward illustration of creating value in trees beyond firewood and furniture.
Kenya’s only coastal-tree nursery
To better understand the link between forest trees and local people, I visited A Rocha Kenya’s tree nursery near Watamu – the only coastal-tree nursery in Kenya. I was shown around the facility by the proud and passionate Alex Saidi, who explained that the trees grown from seed are provided free of charge to the families of bursary recipients for planting at their homes and in their neighbourhoods. The recipients are taught how to care for trees and use organic, no-till methods to ensure prosperous vegetable gardens – ‘farming God’s way’. The sound logic is that the trees have a better chance of survival if given to invested and trained people than if they are handed out willy-nilly – a clever strategy to ensure success. Also provided to bursary family members are energy-saving fireplaces, known as jiko, so villagers use less firewood for cooking. A Rocha Kenya also operates a tree nursery in Karara, Nairobi.
A Rocha Kenya’s tree nursery is the only coastal-tree nursery in Kenya. Here, trees grown from seed are provided to families for planting. The recipients are taught how to care for trees and use organic, no-till methods
Visiting Gedi Ruins
Albert took me to visit the 12th-century Gedi Ruins – a short drive from Watamu – which I highly recommend. This historical site has a fascinating history and is highly photogenic – well worth a few hours of your time. Unfortunately, our (mandatory) local guide rattled off his spiel with barely a breath taken, and I would recommend staying on afterwards to wander the vast site at your own pace quietly. Bring a hat, water and a snack. And for birders, I recommend taking your binoculars – we heard green barbet and Fischer’s turaco in the overhanging canopy.
The Gedi Ruins, near Watamu
Mida Creek
Another highly threatened forest type in this area is the once-extensive mangrove forests that play vital roles as fish and shellfish nurseries while offering coastal stabilisation and water purification. A Rocha Kenya supports the mangrove forests of the nearby Mida Creek with community-based projects of a similar kind. Again there is a nursery for mangrove trees. The community-built and managed boardwalk offers an excellent experience for bird-watchers – winding through the mangroves before terminating in a viewing platform at the lagoon edge to spot thousands of waders that call Mida Creek their home. I ticked off my first crab plover during my brief visit – a stunning bird, to be sure.
The boardwalks winding through the mangroves of Mida Creek offer an excellent experience for bird-watchers. These lead to the lagoon’s edge, where thousands of waders can be spotted
During my time at Mwamba, I watched team members busying themselves with moth surveys and bird-netting research and heard stories of community work, photographing sharks and monitoring plastic marine pollution. This project has many layers – a brilliant reflection of how nature works.
The teams at the Mwamba Conservation Centre get stuck into moth surveys and bird-netting research
Conserving Dakatcha Forest
A Rocha Kenya is securing blocks of the same coastal forest type as Arabuko-Sokoke – at Dakatcha Forest, about 60km away. This community-owned forest is going the way of many of Africa’s coastal forests – firewood and furniture. And so, Colin and his team are securing the land for future generations by providing the community with a set amount and implementing the same layers of sustainable-utilisation projects. What a fantastic endeavour! I have donated to this project – a direct and accountable way to mitigate my carbon footprint from this particular safari. All donations are welcome, but be aware that a US$300 donation will purchase one acre of land for conservation purposes. Now that there is a willing buyer the price of land is increasing, and Colin expects to pay up to US$500 per acre of more sought-after land. You, too, can contribute to further the cause.
A Rocha is securing Dakatcha Forest by supplying fixed amounts of wood to community members and encouraging sustainable use
I arrived at Mwamba not knowing what to expect and left feeling wiser and lighter. I sincerely hope this comment will make sense to some of you and that you will spend time in this paradise. Responsible, impactful travel is undoubtedly one of the best ways to empower rural African communities to maintain and even improve ecosystems and bolster biodiversity. Safari njema!
The Christmas lights are up in shop windows ? and the electric restlessness of the silly season is peeping out above the horizon.
So where to safari this festive season? Read on to find out!
Our first story below is one for the social media fanatics. There is no question that social platforms bring awareness to conservation issues. But are the shared posts, bold declarations and passionate comments making a difference? Our story delves into how social media attention fails to address pressing conservation threats. A poignant study for the ages.
In our second story, we’re laying down all there is to know about Kafue National Park. There is something spellbinding about this untamed Zambian expanse spanning woodland, sweeping plains, wetlands and an incredible variety of wildlife. This is one to add to the bucket list.
It’s summer in the south, and sweltering landscapes dotted with baby herbivores (predators in tow) are cooled by afternoon thunderstorms. East Africa is scant of tourists – the perfect opportunity to experience the magic in peace. Read our third story below for tips on planning your December–February safari.
Choose your next adventure! Chat to our travel experts and you could soon be jetting off to the heart of the wilderness.
Serengeti great migration safari – 5 days or more
If you’d like front-row seats as the Great Wildebeest Migration makes its way through the Serengeti ecosystem, this iconic Big 5 safari is for you. Our chosen dates & camps are to maximise on sightings, based on where the herds are at the time.
Laikipia safari special offer – stay 5, pay 4
Head out in search of adventure in Kenya’s most diverse wildlife region, teeming with endemic & endangered species. This safari will have you at the centre of the action on foot, on horseback, or from the comfort of a vehicle. Spend nights sleeping under the stars, and afternoons at a rock hide waiting for wildlife, or simply chilling – at the pool, with some yoga or a massage.
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
For the sake of ruffling some feathers, so to speak, what manmade threat accounts for the greatest number of bird mortalities every year (not counting habitat loss)? The answer is domestic cats – by a substantial margin. Did you know that cats kill an estimated 1.4 to 3.7 billion birds in the United States each year? Research from other countries, including Australia, Canada, China and South Africa, reveals similar trends.
With our uncanny capacity to polarise every debate, the outdoor/indoor cat conversation invariably descends into a vicious slanging match (I anticipate at least one angry email in the next few days). Leaving aside the discussion on “natural behaviour” and cat welfare, why is it so difficult for avid cat lovers to acknowledge their beloved furbabies’ impact on the environment? To do so does not imply that the cats are at fault! So mystifying is this level of denial that scientists even dedicated an entire paper to untangling the cognitive dissonance.
Please keep your cats inside. It’s safer for them, and it’s better for the environment.
Mouse-Free Marion
We’ve just added the Mouse-Free Marion Project to our selection of trusted conservation and community projects.
In the early 19th century, house mice were accidentally introduced to Marion Island, a seabird haven in the sub-Antarctic Indian Ocean, south-east of South Africa. This has had a devastating impact on the ecology of the island. The Mouse-Free Marion Project aims to remove the invasive mice, which are endangering the long-term survival of the seabirds and other native species of the island. Learn more about how the project is working to eradicate the problem, and see how you can help.
WATCH: Botswana is the safari connoisseur’s choice, offering some of Africa’s best game viewing, huge wilderness areas, superb lodges and most experienced guides. In this video, enjoy striking scenes from Botswana, a land of endless wildlife encounters (01:15). Click here to watch
The burgeoning popularity of social media has allowed it to evolve into a potent force with positive and negative consequences. From raising awareness to the proliferation of misinformation, social media can significantly impact conservation efforts. New research highlights how the attention elephants receive on Twitter fails to align with the most urgent conservation issues facing the species.
The researchers opted to focus on Twitter over other social media platforms because Twitter “aspires to facilitate real-time public conversations”. The studied tweets about elephants were posted between January and December 2019 and, once filtered for spam, numbered 2,484,228 tweets – which gives some idea of the reach of the messages conveyed. Of these, 3,749 tweets were manually analysed to understand their content.
The International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) has identified three primary threats facing all three elephant species (Loxodonta africana, Loxodonta cyclotis and Elephas maximus): habitat loss, human-elephant conflict, and poaching. The magnitude of each threat differs between the species. Of the tweets analysed, just 21% related directly to the three major threats identified by the IUCN, with poaching receiving the most attention (13%), followed by human-elephant conflict (7%). Less than 1% addressed habitat loss.
Instead, the most frequently discussed topics overall were elephant welfare concerns such as tourist elephant rides (23%), non-specific conservation messages (19%), and videos and non-conservation news (17%). 10% of the tweets dealt with trophy hunting and culling, which the IUCN does not consider to be conservation threats to elephant populations. Furthermore, comments from non-elephant range countries were by far the most dominant on Twitter, with 72% of tweets originating from users in these countries. These users were more likely to post about elephant welfare concerns and trophy hunting and least likely to mention human-elephant conflict.
In contrast, users from African and Asian elephant-range states were far more likely to discuss human-elephant conflict and tourism. Tweets from Asian elephant-range countries revealed a stronger focus on elephant welfare concerns than their African counterparts. Users from African range states were more likely to tweet about poaching.
The researchers raise several reasons as to why their results are concerning. Political will – influenced by public interest – is essential in targeting and addressing anthropogenic activities that represent the most significant threats to endangered species. Public opinion, in turn, can be shaped by how mainstream media frames specific topics and how they are addressed on social media. If a person is repeatedly exposed to an issue on social media, they may be more likely to perceive it as important, possibly disproportionately so. Thus, public support, time and valuable resources might be misdirected towards initiatives that do not address the core threats to species and biodiversity. The authors use the example of the current emphasis on plastic pollution in the oceans – a serious concern but one which has been disproportionately emphasised over the more pressing threats of climate change and overfishing.
In addition, the disparities between the focus of users in elephant and non-elephant range states have the potential to contribute to a fundamental failure of understanding. A lack of awareness, particularly of the impact of human-elephant conflict, has the potential to create the impression that the lives of elephants are valued over those of the humans that live alongside them. As such, the authors emphasise a need to make local realities more central in social media discourse.
Another critical aspect raised during their research concerned the most discussed event among their analysed tweets: the death of a suspected poacher, killed by elephants and eaten by lions. The discourse around this event highlighted how extreme violence towards poachers is routinely advocated on social media. The upshot of this trend is that poachers are often portrayed as less than human, with no right to life or due process. Most of these tweets originate from states where the rights of suspected criminals are legally protected. This mismatch between the rights of their citizens and those of local community members is likely to reinforce the impression in local communities that their lives are undervalued. This could further alienate communities from conservation, and the authors call on the conservation community to call out and challenge this dehumanising narrative.
Though this research was focused on some of the challenges posed by social media, the authors conclude by emphasising that it can also be instrumental in generating support for conservation initiatives. The fact that many social media users are “motivated and willing to advocate for the protection of elephants” is a positive step. “[H]owever, suitable harnessing [of] this potential requires shifting the focus on social media towards the major threats to elephant conservation.”
There is a mermaid in the waterways of Kafue National Park… or so it is said.
If the stories are to be believed, Africa’s rivers are teeming with a variety of gods, spirits, and protectors. Today, it is said that the mermaid Kitapo lurks in the waters of the Kafue River in Zambia, saving children and the virtuous from its rapids and dragging murderers and criminals into the depths to be devoured by crocodiles. Perhaps she found refuge in the many waterways of Kafue National Park, a land still wild enough for deities of old. And while sightings of her are few and far between, visitors can still experience the magic of untamed Africa in lieu of meeting a goddess.
Kafue National Park and its surrounds
Kafue National Park is Zambia’s oldest and largest national park, spanning 22,400km2 (2,24 million hectares – more extensive than Wales) in western-central Zambia. The Kafue River and its many tributaries, including the Lufupa, Lunga, Luansanza and Musa Rivers, dominate the scenery. From stretches of veined river valleys to branching streams and swampy floodplains to the manmade Itezhi-tezhi dam, these waterways are the park’s lifeblood during the dry season.
In a park the size of Kafue, variety is a given. From south to north, the landscape transforms from miombo woodland punctuated by granite outcrops to the sweeping plains and wetlands. In the northernmost corner of the park lies the veritable wildlife haven of the Busanga Plains, surrounded by the Busanga Swamps. This watery wonderland comes alive at the height of the dry season, teeming with predators, prey, and prolific bird life. For wildlife viewing, Busanga is the Kafue National Park’s hive of activity.
Find out about Kafue for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.
An early morning mist covers grassland in the Busanga Plains, located in the north of Kafue. Puku and red lechwe are visible in the low-hanging cloud of moisture rising off the plain before sunrise
A highway bisects the park, and, unsurprisingly, Busanga’s productivity means that most lodges and infrastructure are centred in the northern half. Even so, Kafue retains a remote and unspoilt feel throughout. Overshadowed by the parks of the Luangwa Valley to the east, Kafue National Park has remained one of Zambia’s best-kept safari secrets: an untrammelled, uncommercialised park boasting astonishing luxury safaris in the wildest of settings.
Kafue National Park is one of the northernmost components of the vast Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA), encompassing wilderness areas in five countries: Angola, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, and Zambia. The park is buffered by several contiguous Game Management Areas (GMAs): Mulobezi, Sichifulo, Mumbwa, Kasonso-Busanga, Lunga-Luwishi, Namwala, Bilili Springs and Nkala. GMAs were established in Zambia as a way for wildlife and humans to co-exist, allowing for consumptive use of the land, including hunting. The GMA’s around Kafue National Park theoretically add 38,384km2 (nearly four million hectares) of additional space for wildlife to roam.
Kafue is known for its mighty Kafue River; miombo woodland punctuated by granite outcrops, sweeping plains and wetlands, teeming with wildlife (hippos, zebras and puku are all pictured here)
Kafue’s frolicking wildlife
Kafue is bursting with life in abundance. Like many parks in Africa, Kafue was marred by poaching during the latter half of the 21st century, but animal populations are gradually recovering. Perhaps hardest hit after the region’s rhinos (sadly now extinct), elephants are now an increasingly common sight in the park. They gather to feed on the fruiting ilala palms or trudge through the woodlands.
Every year, the flood waters of the Lufupa recede around July, gradually uncovering the grasses of Busanga Plains and leaving small dambos (shallow wetlands) in their wake. Here the ungulates gather in their thousands, with vast herds of buffalos, impalas, red lechwes, wildebeests, waterbucks, pukus and zebras arriving to graze and sate their thirst. This visual feast is almost Serengeti-like in its decadent variety. With their specially adapted hooves, reclusive and amphibious sitatunga conceal themselves in the reedbeds, while roan and sable antelopes prefer the drier miombo forests. Blue and yellow-backed duikers secrete themselves in the undergrowth, along with the equally shy (but adorable) Sharpe’s grysboks.
Red lechwe make their way across the Busanga Plains
Naturally, this smorgasbord of prey species is an attractive prospect for Zambia’s carnivores. Lions are commonly encountered, and along with South Luangwa National Park, Kafue is one of the best places in Zambia to find leopards. It is also one of the only places in the country where cheetahs occur. Spotted hyenas provide the perfect dinner-time serenade (albeit in discordant competition with the tree hyraxes), and packs of endangered wild dogs (painted wolves) revel in the open space afforded by the plains. Smaller predators abound, with frequent sightings of servals, caracals, jackals and civets.
Kafue also has a reputation for sightings of the more unusual creatures like bushpigs, pangolins, aardvarks, honey badgers, and ubiquitous springhares. What’s more, the rivers and tributaries are home to not just the expected pods of hippos and crocodiles basking on sandbanks, but the sinuous forms of African clawless and spotted-neck otters are occasionally seen breaking the surface of the murky waters.
Kafue is home to abundant wildlife, including: lion, which are commonly encountered; vast herds of buffalo; side-striped jackal; aardvark (Kafue offers great sightings of unusual creatures); wild dog; leopard; puku; red lechwe; large pods of hippos; and roan antelope
Kafue’s avian kaleidoscope
Such an impressive list of mammal diversity is hard to match, but the bird life on display in Kafue is equally, if not more, phenomenal. With 500 odd species recorded in the park’s diversity of habitats, birding here is the best in Zambia and is guaranteed to be rewarding. The miombo woodland specials include the Souza’s shrikes, yellow-bellied hyliotas, green-capped eremomelas, green-backed woodpeckers, and eastern miombo sunbirds. In the magnificent riverine forests with their ancient trees, Pel’s fishing owls roost, and Schalow’s and Ross’s turacos display brief flashes of red and green. Here, too, birders can try their hand spotting the tiny white figures of the endemic and vulnerable Chaplin’s barbet, which roosts in fig trees.
The rich variety of life on display on the Busanga Plains extends to its feathered occupants: open-billed and saddle-billed storks vie with southern ground-hornbills and wattled and crowned cranes. Bright flashes of colour reveal a multitude of kingfisher species (including half-collared) launching themselves from suitable perches, and birds of prey soar overhead. African finfoots delight visitors as they glide past, and flocks of Böhm’s bee-eaters decorate the skies.
Prolific bird life abounds in Kafue, with over 500 species recorded. Pictured are: lappet-faced vultures; Böhm’s Bee-eater; trumpeter hornbill; grey crowned cranes; wattled cranes; African openbills; pink-throated longclaw; and half-collared kingfisher
Shining future
On the 1st of July 2022, the Government of Zambia entered into a 20-year-agreement with non-profit organisation African Parks to secure the protection and effective management of Kafue. The signing of this agreement was the culmination of years’ worth of planning and African Parks, funded by the Dutch Postcode Lottery’s Dream Fund grant, and supported by The Nature Conservancy and the Elephant Crisis Fund, had already concluded a 16-month Priority Support Plan. This involved the investment of US$3.6 million in park infrastructure, operations, an aerial census and the creation of an additional 150 jobs within the park.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
African Parks has been responsible for the management of Liuwa Plain National Park since 2003 and Bangweulu Wetlands since 2008. Kafue National Park became the 20th park in African Park’s glowing portfolio of stabilised and rehabilitated protected areas across the continent.
Explore & stay
Want to go on a safari to Kafue? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team, scroll down to after this story.
Kafue National Park is easily accessible, and accommodation options vary from budget campsites to ultra-luxury five-star lodges. It is primarily a dry-season park, and many lodges (and roads) are closed during the rainy season from December until March. Heavy downpours render most of the park largely inaccessible and increase the number of tsetse flies and the risk of malaria transmission during the rainy season. The only exception to this advice is for avid birders looking to make the most of the influx of migratory species during the summer months, though Busanga Plains remains strictly off-limits. For most visitors looking to experience the best of the park’s wildlife viewing, May until October is the time to go.
In a park the size of Kafue, it is to be expected that game drives would form the bulk of the safari experience, but not for nothing is Zambia known as “the home of the walking safari”. A guided walk is an essential part of exploring the park: quite aside from the sympathetic nervous buzz of an adrenaline-filled large animal encounter, time spent on foot is unequivocally the best way to acquaint oneself with the park and affirm one’s connection to nature. Similarly, leisurely canoe and boating safaris slow things down and allow for greater immersion in the park’s spectacular surroundings. A hot-air balloon trip offers an even more unusual perspective, gliding silently (well, mostly, the occasional sound of the burner is loud) through the air and observing the wildlife, animal tracks and networks of a connected ecosystem.
There are plenty of activities on offer in the park, including: game drives to traverse the wide expansive terrain; hot-air ballooning to experience spectacular scenery; walking safaris; sundowners; and boat cruises along the rivers
Final thoughts
There is something spellbinding about Kafue, and, with such magnificent displays of Africa at its most spectacular, one could hardly blame Kitapo for ensconcing herself in the majesty that is Kafue National Park. Visiting the park brings this magic to life, capturing the hearts of all who set foot here.
Resources
Nanzhila Plains is a hidden gem in the remote southern reaches of Kafue. Read more here.
Hesté de Beer writes: “We visited the chief of this boma, Yona Koromo, and his family regularly over a 25-year period. The family allowed us into their homes and invited us to be part of all their rituals. Here, the chief’s wife, who gave us permission for this photo, awaits the sun outside her hut.” Lake Natron, Tanzania
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My name is Simon, and I am a safariholic. Being on safari peels me open like a ripe melon and washes my stresses away – the sensory overload and endorphin rush influence my body chemistry. True story.
With that in mind, check out our last-minute Botswana special offers – up to 75% off ! Sadly, these crazy prices are for SADC residents only. I know, but few locals can afford these prices, and this is their only chance to experience the fabulosity of a luxury Botswana safari. Did someone say Zarafa, Duba, Tuludi and Jack’s?
And then there is this: South African and Namibian cheetahs are being sent to India to ‘restock’ their wildlife areas – with a different subspecies of cheetah. Many factors are at play here, and there has been so much bickering and trumpeting about this issue. At last, here is a summary we can all understand. Is this eco or ego? You decide.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
Longing for an escape? We have plenty of special deals on offer at the moment. Contact our team of experts to arrange your dream safari.
Legendary Botswana deals for SADC residents: This one is for the residents of southern Africa seeking to explore the bushveld over summer. We have secured large discounts for SADC residents (up to 75%!) at some of Botswana’s best lodges. This is for safaris taking place between October 2022 and March 2023. Check out this amazing list of lodges and BOOK YOUR SAFARI NOW.
Congo forest & lowland gorilla trekking – 9 days: Search for lowland gorillas, bongos, dwarf crocodiles, forest elephants and grey parrots in the dense Congo forests on this 9-day safari like no other. This is for you if you’re willing to go beyond the safari norm to explore and discover truly wild areas.
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
We’ve jumped from a chilly winter straight into glowing heat waves here in the Highveld of South Africa, so I greet you this week with sweat on my brow and cider in hand.
In our first story below, we explore a mysterious medieval Swahili civilisation, buried in a primeaval forest just north of the small beach town of Watamu, Kenya. A visit to the carefully preserved Gedi Ruins in Arabuko-Sokoke Forest reveals the intricacies of a once-thriving metropolis, an important but little-known medieval centre of trade in East Africa. Read more to uncover age-old tales of class division, slavery, historical cultures and international relations.
In our second story, Jamie has analysed the most comprehensive report on the status of the world’s rhinos to date. With some countries pushing to reduce the conservation status of rhinos at the upcoming COP19 in November, this summary is an eye-opener on the issues at hand.
Happy celebrating Africa to you all!
Story 1 https://africageographic.com/stories/gedi-ruins/
GEDI RUINS
Gedi was a medieval East African trade city. Today, you can visit Kenya’s Gedi Ruins to discover a lost Swahili civilisation
If you happen to be living under the cartoon misapprehension that roosters crow once as the sun rises, allow me to elucidate something. They crow for many reasons, including territorially, to celebrate a successful mating and, I am convinced, purely out of spite. When there is artificial light (like city lights, for instance), they continue this throughout the night.
Now, did you know that roosters have been recorded crowing at volumes of up to 143 decibels? By comparison, a lion’s roar is roughly 110 decibels and a chainsaw around 120. Roosters can crow so loudly that they have a special soft tissue covering to protect their own eardrums.
Why this sudden poultry fascination? Because my landlords have five adult roosters, and one of them has it in for me. Cock-a-doodle-do indeed.
Magical Richtersveld
Kristi Goodman recently sought advice on visiting the desert landscape of the Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park in the Northern Cape of South Africa. Kristi writes on the forum:
“We are going to stay in the Richtersveld Transfrontier Park in early November and we’ll be travelling from Cape Town. We have looked into camping as well as the Tatatasberg Wilderness Camp. We have heard the park is huge! Is there any advice on what to do and must-visit areas?”
WATCH: Get a taste of the vast wilderness, immersive landscapes and incredible wildlife experiences that await in Botswana, in honour of our SPECIAL OFFER safaris throughout the country for SADC residents (02:26). Click here to watch
Rhino Specialist Groups of the IUCN & TRAFFIC have compiled a report containing the most up-to-date and comprehensive analysis of rhino numbers, trends, poaching incidents, conservation measures and trade at a national and international level.
In November 2022, the 19th meeting of the Conference of the Parties (CoP19) to the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wildlife Fauna and Flora (CITES) will be held in Panama. In preparation, the African and Asian Rhino Specialist Groups of the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) and non-governmental trade monitoring organisation TRAFFIC were tasked with compiling a report on the status of the world’s rhinoceros species. The resultant report’s 90 pages contain the most up-to-date and comprehensive analysis of rhino numbers, trends, poaching incidents, conservation measures and trade at a national and international level.
This article summarises the report’s main findings on population numbers and poaching statistics, which are accurate up until the end of 2021. Though the report contains information about African and Asian rhino species, we focus purely on the data for African species. All numerical data, such as population counts, should be considered estimates within a confidence interval unless otherwise stated. Poaching rates are based on the number of detected carcasses, adjusted for imperfect carcass detection.
Most recent population stats for African rhinos
In summary:
There are an estimated 15,942 white rhinos in Africa, 11.8% lower than the 18,067 individuals at the end of 2017. Since 2012, white rhino numbers on the continent have declined by 25.2%.
Four range States conserve the largest proportion of the continent’s white rhinos: South Africa (81.3%), Namibia (7.7%), Kenya (5.5%) and Zimbabwe (2.6%).
Total black rhino numbers have risen 12.2%, from an estimated 5,495 in 2017 to 6,195 at the end of 2021.
The four range States that conserve the largest proportion of the continent’s black rhinos are Namibia (34.8%), South Africa (33.2%), Kenya (15.1%) and Zimbabwe (9.9%).
2,707 poaching incidents were recorded in Africa from 2018 to 2021. 90% of these occurred in South Africa. This represents an overall decline from 3.9% of the continental population in 2018 to 2.3% in 2021. Peak poaching levels of 5.3% were observed in 2015.
Several countries, including South Africa, recorded a decrease in poaching during the 2020 pandemic but then reported a rise again in 2021. However, the report acknowledges vigorous law enforcement and conservation efforts within several range states.
The number of horns entering illegal trade from 2018 to 2020 was estimated at between 4,593 to 5,186, with over half recovered through law enforcement activities. The 2018 to 2020 figures represent the lowest annual estimate in the past decade. However, this could be partly attributed to the 2020 pandemic.
In terms of illegal trade volume, the seven countries most affected by the illegal trade in rhino horn from 2018 to 2020 are (in order): South Africa, China, Vietnam, Malaysia, Mozambique, the United Arab Emirates and Qatar. (Total weight and number of horns seized in each country, as well as seizures where the country was implicated as part of the illegal supply chain.
Botswana was noted with concern due to the significant decline in the rhino population and unconfirmed reports of high levels of poaching in 2021.
From 2018 to 2021, there were 1,588 arrests made for crimes involving rhinos across Africa. 751 of these cases were prosecuted, and just 300 resulted in convictions.
South Africa and Namibia reported a total of 236 white rhinos and eight black rhinos legally trophy hunted from 2018 to 2021.
South Africa is home to the majority of white rhinos on the continent; as such, the country’s conservation contributions exert considerable influence on continental trends. White rhino populations in South Africa declined from 15,625 at the end of 2017 to 12,968 at the end of 2021, the lowest population since pre-2005. More than half of these are privately owned. While the country’s white rhinos accounted for 86.5% of Africa’s population in 2017, this has declined to 81.3% in 2021. The country’s total black rhinos are estimated to number 2,056 individuals, an increase of ten since 2017.
South Africa experienced peak poaching levels in 2014 when 1,215 rhinos were killed, after which poaching incidents gradually declined. 2020 saw a decade low of 394 rhinos killed, which increased to 451 in 2021. As of August 2022, 259 rhinos have been poached throughout the country for the year, most of which were killed in KwaZulu-Natal province. From 2018 to 2020, 1,116 whole horns were seized, representing at least 558 individual rhinos and around 4% of the surviving population in 2021.
Trophy hunting of both rhino species is legal in South Africa and Namibia. During the reporting period, 72 rhinos were legally trophy hunted in South Africa in 2018, 58 in 2019, eight in 2020 and 102 in 2021. This equates to a harvesting rate of between 0.37% and 1.78% of the country’s remaining population. Namibia reported that 17 white rhinos were trophy hunted in 2019 and 22 in 2021, along with three black rhinos from 2018 to 2021. The report notes that the revenue raised from these trophy hunts is important in supporting conservation costs, with hunting revenue ranging from US$15,000 to US$300,000 per rhino (black rhino hunts being substantially more expensive than white) in Namibia (South Africa did not report prices for trophy hunts).
Namibia reported an increase in black and white rhino populations over the four-year reporting period, from 975 to 1,234 white rhinos and from 1,857 to 2,156 black rhinos at the end of 2021. After South Africa (which reported 90% of all poaching incidents in Africa), Namibia recorded the second highest poaching figures in 2021 – 40 rhino carcasses detected, equating to 8% of approximately 554 rhinos poached across the continent. At least 93 rhinos were poached in 2018, 56 in 2019 and 40 in 2020. A total of 32 seizures yielded an estimated 57 whole horns from 2018 to 2021. Though not included within the report, recent numbers from Namibia indicate a concerning rise in poaching incidents for 2022, which experts suggest is due to a shift in focus by criminal syndicates. By August 2022, 48 rhinos had been poached in Namibia, 11 of which were killed over two weeks in June.
During the reporting period, Namibia reported an estimated US$1,237,575 raised through trophy hunting. The country has once again submitted a proposal for the downlisting of white rhinos from Appendix I to Appendix II (South Africa and eSwatini are currently the only two countries where white rhinos are listed on Appendix II). This would ease export restrictions for legally hunted trophies and the movement of live animals. The ten-page proposal indicates that the movement of live animals would be conducted only for in-situ conservation.
Kenya
Kenya has the third highest number of rhinos in Africa. At the end of 2021, it was home to 15.1% (938) of Africa’s black rhinos and 5.5% (873) of the continent’s white rhino, including the last two remaining northern white rhinos (Ceratotherium simum cottoni). Both black and white rhinos have increased overall since 2017, from 745 black rhinos and 513 white rhinos. Kenya’s black rhinos are the eastern black rhino subspecies (Diceros bicornis michaeli), making it home to the largest population of the least numerous black rhino subspecies.
There were no known poaching incidents in Kenya in 2020, but six rhinos were poached in 2021. Before that, four carcasses were detected in both 2018 and 2019. Three seizures representing an estimated four whole horns were made from 2018 to 2020.
Zimbabwe
Zimbabwe’s rhino populations have increased since 2017, from 367 to 417 white rhinos and from 520 to 616 black rhinos at the end of 2021. Poaching levels peaked in 2019 when 82 carcasses were discovered, followed by 12 in 2020 and four in 2021. Six seizures were made over a three-year period from 2018 to 2020, amounting to an estimated 19 whole horns. The country is in the process of dehorning its entire rhino population.
Botswana
Botswana did not provide the compilers of the report with information on population breakdowns, poaching data or law enforcement activities for 2021 – the only rhino range state not to do so. Their rhino population has been decimated from 452 white and 50 black rhinos in 2017 to 242 white and 23 black rhinos (a 46% and 54% decline, respectively) in 2021. Poaching incidents began to escalate in 2017 when nine rhinos were killed, followed by 18 in 2018, 31 in 2019 and 55 in 2020. The authors suggest that poaching levels in 2021 were likely similar to those of 2020. Two seizures equating to four whole horns were made from 2018 to 2020.
Despite this, Botswana has also proposed downlisting white rhinos to Appendix II.
Mozambique
Mozambique is an important transit country in the illegal trade of horn, supplied by poaching incidents in neighbouring South Africa. 75% of the seizures in the country (where the destination could be identified) were destined for Vietnam. The report did not mention the recent translocation of over 40 white and black rhinos to Zinave National Park from South Africa in 2022.
Additional country information in rhino populations
A new white rhino population of 30 individuals from South Africa was established in Akagera National Park in Rwanda at the end of 2021. The country’s reintroduced black rhino population has grown from 19 at the end of 2017 to 28 at the end of 2021. Zambia’s black rhino population grew from 48 to 58 in four years, but the white rhino population is now estimated at just eight individuals. Uganda’s rhinos were driven to extinction in the 1980s, but a small sanctuary is now home to a growing population of 35 white rhinos. Tanzania’s white rhino population is extinct, but the country reported an increase in black rhinos from 160 to 212. This can be partly accounted for by the translocation of rhinos from South Africa to Serengeti National Park in 2019. eSwatini (formerly Swaziland) has a population of 98 white and 48 black rhinos. The countries above all reported zero detected poaching incidents in 2020 and 2021.
A full breakdown of Africa’s rhino populations by country can be found in Table 2 on page 25 of the report.
Final thoughts on the state of Africa’s rhinos
The new report by the IUCN and TRAFFIC contains a comprehensive analysis of rhino numbers and poaching statistics across Africa and Asia but also details conservation measures, horn stockpiles, national and international law enforcement efforts, education initiatives and challenges. The exact impact of COVID-19 restrictions on the rhino horn trade is unknown. However, Sabri Zain, TRAFFIC Director of Policy, emphasised that “2020 did represent an abnormal year with low levels of reported illegal activity, law enforcement, and government reporting”. As such, the report strongly urges the continued and consistent monitoring of illegal trade.
Furthermore, most of the remaining rhinos are found in small populations, with a median reported population size of nine. 94.7% of Africa’s rhino populations comprised fewer than 200. As a result, they are particularly vulnerable to stochastic processes such as droughts and disease. While the overall decline in poaching is encouraging, it remains the single greatest threat to Africa’s rhino species, and recent increases are a cause for considerable concern.
Buried deep within thickets of primaeval forest just north of the small beach town of Watamu, Kenya, you’ll find the remnants of a mysterious medieval Swahili civilisation built from stone. Deep within the ancient, dry coastal Arabuko-Sokoke Forest, the carefully preserved ruins of the once-thriving metropolis of Gedi await enlightened exploration.
This important historical and archaeological site – today known as the Gedi Ruins (also spelt ‘Gede’) – was once a centre for trade along the East African coast and comprised dozens of stone structures and foundations dotted amongst the forest. Set amongst overgrown indigenous woodland, with butterflies, birds and Syke’s monkeys dancing about the thicket, the narrow paths winding between the excavated buildings are well worth exploring. The ruins are a reminder of the decadent cross-continental trade and diverse cultures of East Africa.
Historical significance
The thriving metropolis of Gedi once hosted a population of 2,500 people and flourished between the 12th and 16th centuries. While the oldest ruins of Gedi date between 1041 and 1278, many of the structures were rebuilt in the 15th century – evidence of an influx of inhabitants from surrounding villages and towns.
Little was known of this important Indian Ocean centre of trade outside of local lore until the early 1920s, when British colonists rediscovered the site, and it gained the attention of the British East African government. This set in motion its declaration as a national monument in 1927 and excavations of the ruins in the 1940s.
Exploration and unearthing of ancient artefacts in Gedi, such as Venetian beads, Ming Dynasty and Islamic pottery, and Spanish scissors, led archaeologists to discover that the city was once a centre of trade and wealth. Evidence shows that the city traded with China, the Near East, Arabia, India and South-East Asia. What continues to mystify historians, however, is that despite these extensive trading activities, no written record of Gedi’s existence can be found before the 20th century. Stranger still is the remote location in a forest more than 5kms from a coast with poor anchorages – which would have proved impractical for traders from across the ocean. Nevertheless, Gedi maintained economic success, and all evidence points to its importance as a cross-continental trade hub.
The remains of mosques in the city indicate the adoption of Islam by Gedi’s inhabitants in the twelfth century
As a centre for Swahili trade, it is likely that Gedi also exported gold, ivory, ebony, mangrove poles, copper, copal gum, frankincense, myrrh, crystal rock – and even slaves. While not much is known about the history of the slave trade in Gedi specifically, anecdotal evidence and lore point towards its prominence during the 18th century. Locals speak of caves near the ruins where slaves were kept before being sold and tunnels used for transport to the beaches. While East Africa was a late participant in the transatlantic slave trade, with the trade picking up towards the end of the 18th century, there is evidence of Muslim merchants trading slaves from East Africa with countries bordering the Indian Ocean as early as the 7th century. Given Gedi’s prominence as a trade city, its thriving economy, its position on the East Coast and mixed cultures, trading of slaves in Gedi was likely.
Gedi’s advanced developments set the city apart from many of its contemporary towns. These included sewage systems, lavatories, safe rooms, and formally structured streets on a grid system. In its heyday, the city likely ran on a mixed economy of livestock, agricultural and horticultural production, with certain food items also brought in through trade. Three mosques built in the north of the city indicate the adoption of Islam by Gedi’s inhabitants in the 12th century.
The town was divided by two walls, with an outer wall enclosing many mud-thatch dwellings and an inner wall surrounding the mosques and some houses. Various stone buildings in the city include a Sheikh’s palace, the aforementioned mosques, and coral-brick houses interspersed with mud-thatch houses. These structures point to a class-based division in the city structure, with elite inhabitants occupying the centre of the town, middle-class residents living in the interim division, and poorer residents living on the outskirts.
Cryptic findings from archaeological digs reveal an unexplained mass exodus from the city in the 17th century – a subject of much debate today. Evidence suggests this abandonment was due to Portuguese pressure at the time, which would have threatened trade and even led to armed incursions in the city. Added to this were the lingering menace from the Galla, a hostile nomadic ethnic group from Ethiopia, the Wazimba raids along the East African coast in 1589, and the removal of the Sheikh of Malindi in 1593. Signs that the well outside the mosque was deepened also point toward a struggle to access water – another possible reason that the site was eventually abandoned.
The remnants of varying building styles illustrate a class-based division in the city structure
Exploring the city
The ruins of former structures at the site reflect Gedi’s intricate social and economic structure. Much of the remaining grid system and the remains of walls and various buildings can still be seen in the ruins today. The complex is large, but be sure to visit the inner walls of the city where the palace is found. Of interest is a dated coral tomb engraved with Arabic script.
The city is shrouded in mysticism, and you’ll likely hear whisperings from locals about ancestral spirits residing at Gedi. Many believe that the ruins are still protected by the spirits of the city’s former religious leaders. Local tradition says that the spirits will curse anyone who harms this site.
The site is within easy reach of the towns of Malindi and Watamu. There are few signposts with directions en route to the ruins, so it is essential to have adequate directions or a driver in the know to get you there.
Travellers can visit the ruins unaccompanied, hire a guide at the entrance, or take a guided tour from Malindi or Watamu – although it is highly recommended that you set a few hours aside for unabated exploration of this fascinating, otherworldly setting. The entrance fee does not include a guide. If you’d like to hear details of the area’s history, a guide is recommended, but exploring the ruins on your own at your pace can also be an enlightening experience (don’t forget to wear comfortable shoes and bring along some water!). There are a few signposts around the ruins that provide insight into the history of the area.
Find out about KENYA for your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.
A few signs and informational boards are present at the ruins to assist visitors to navigate the lost city
Visitors to the ruins can also stop in at the Kipepeo Butterfly Project, which, through an innovative breeding programme of the forest butterflies, brings in income for the local community. Many of the items excavated from the ruins – including artefacts of trade – can be viewed in the museum on site. There is also a snake sanctuary at the ruins. The magical forest surrounds allow ample photographic opportunities for visitors.
Today, the importance of the Gedi Ruins is widely recognised. Under the care of the National Museums of Kenya, intense study of the area continues. The local community also helps maintain the ruins and benefits from tourism’s earnings. Allow a few hours for a visit: the trip to the Gedi Ruins is well worth the time and will bring to life a lost Swahili civilisation and the historical cultures of the East African coast.
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Khwai wildlife action + surviving snares + mega safari
It’s no secret that the safari industry has been hammered by the Covid-19 pandemic. Although many lodges are now full, this is partly because of Covid-delayed bookings – which will also impact the 2023 season, although to a lesser extent. This means that safari planning for next year should be done sooner rather than later if you are travelling during the high season of June to September. Start the conversation now so we can plan an expertly tailored African adventure just for you.
Speaking of heading out on that much-anticipated safari, our talented Photographer of the Year 2022 winners have just returned from their well-deserved trip to Khwai Private Reserve, Botswana. Our CEO Simon accompanied the travellers and has returned with tales of non-stop wildlife action, predator sightings and elephant antics. Read Simon’s trip report on the incredible wildlife encounters experienced by the group, complete with stunning pictures from a few of the attendees. Not to be missed in our first story below.
Our second story delves into the effects of human-wildlife conflict on lions and leopards in the Luangwa and Kafue regions in Zambia. Scientists examining the skulls of trophy-hunted lions and leopards from these areas have detected old injuries from snares and shotguns. The alarming quantity of incidents picked up by the scientists shows that the occurrence of snare entanglement for the big cats, as well as other run-ins with humans, greatly surpasses previous estimates. Read more below.
Wednesday, the 28th of September, was World Rabies Day. We (students of the Faculty of Veterinary Science) spent the day in an urban township called Soshanguve, just north of Pretoria, vaccinating community dogs and raising awareness about this fatal disease. It was an immensely enriching experience and a vital initiative conducted in conjunction with the Gauteng Department of Agriculture and Rural Development.
Did you know that infectious diseases – including rabies and canine distemper – transmitted by domestic dogs are one of the primary threats facing African wild dog (painted wolf) populations across the continent? Vaccination campaigns of rural domestic dogs may be time-consuming and expensive, but their conservation value cannot be overstated – they are the ONLY effective tool for controlling these viruses. They save animal and human lives.
There’s no better time than now to book your next adventure. October-November is a great time to embark on your safari: the rains have not yet arrived, the crowds have left, wildlife encounters are numerous and exploring all that the continent has to offer will be a delight. Whether you prefer a few days in a watery paradise, or a mega trip traversing multiple countries, we’ve got the handmade package for you:
Okavango Delta safari – 4 days: This brief safari is a great introduction to the lush wilderness of the Okavango. Glide down the complex network of waterways on a mokoro (water level dependant), spot the Big 5 while on game drives and enjoy spectacular birdwatching. Choose between a budget, mid-range or luxury option – there’s something for everyone!
Southern Africa mega safari – 19 days: This iconic southern African safari is the ultimate bucket-list adventure, covering three countries: Visit Greater Kruger, Cape Town and the winelands in South Africa, Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park in Botswana, and Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe – for a decadent once-in-a-lifetime trip.
WATCH: They’re small, cute and rather special – rock hyraxes, also known as dassies. This thrilling documentary about the lives of dassies on the South African coastline has it all: territorial disputes and declarations of war, romance and love songs, playful youngsters and raunchy teenagers, narrow escapes and hard lessons (51:39). Click here to watch
The action within meters of us was so intense, so absorbing, that now and then, we had to rest the eyes and recalibrate brains that had lapsed into states of catatonic bliss. But more about that later. My wife and I spent almost a week in August 2022 with our Photographer of the Year 2022 winners in Botswana’s Khwai Private Reserve. These few words do scant justice to the experience, and the images below go a bit further.
Our first game drive yielded a hunting party of seven wild dogs (African painted wolves) in the fading light and then a relaxed serval that sat within meters of us, paws neatly tucked in like a chilled house cat – great harbingers of things to come in our sojourn to paradise. The following morning found us parked off for hours under a massive camelthorn tree; a leopard seductively draped over a gnarled branch; legs and tail dangling. On the way back to the lodge for lunch, we bumped into a haggard one-eyed male lion – still recovering from a sound beating he recently took from pretenders to his throne. The three large intruders were still trawling the area, and our vanquished leader’s two coalition partners, eight lionesses and eight cubs, had fled. We also bumped into a leopardess and her two tiny cubs on a few occasions. The final sighting of her was sans cubs as she rested on a low-hanging bare branch in the dark of night before indulging us with a few yoga poses, sliding down the tree and strolling haughtily past us and into the night. Our photographers filled many an SD card and drained their batteries that night …
But enough about the game drives along the lush water channels that so define this eastern fringe of the Okavango Delta. What draws me to this place at the height of the dry season is the two underground photographic hides on the dry east side of Khwai Private Reserve – close to Chobe National Park (there are no fences). I have spent many hours in these hides armed with only a mobile phone and binoculars – absorbing every detail as wild Africa reveals her riches, exuberance and moods. At this time of year, there is a constant stream of big male elephants that arrive from near and far. These big boys move between Botswana, Zimbabwe, Namibia and Zambia in search of food, water and mating opportunities.
And so, this year, our group of photographic winners and their partners headed to Khwai to witness what is undoubtedly one of Africa’s best elephant experiences. These gentle giants slurp, jostle and rumble a few meters away – so close that sometimes all you can see are legs, bellies and that other large bit. It’s fascinating to see the various characters amongst the bulls and how some are respected more than others. Sometimes the water clears entirely of elephants on the arrival of an individual elephant with a confident swagger and gangster attitude.
Our winners often grabbed their expensive equipment as water sprayed into the hide while behemoths barged and sloshed outside. I spent a fair bit of time outside the hides, a few meters from the elephants but protected by a pile of logs, and on several occasions, observed them watching the humans through the hide slots as they sprayed the water into the hide. Make of that what you will.
And in-between the forest of grey legs, we also spotted gangs of banded mongoose, warthogs, impalas, emerald-spotted wood doves and Burchell’s sandgrouse trying their luck.
See our Botswana safari special offers below these epic images.
One of two underground photographic hides in Khwai Private Reserve
The east-facing photographic hides accommodate up to 6 photographers on comfortable padded chairs. The hides are underground and so cool inside – a pleasant difference to rising outside temperatures at this time of year. The best time to see large numbers of elephants is from August to November (before the first rains) from late morning onwards as they arrive to drink in the heat of the day. The two hides are a 10-minute game drive from Sky Beds ( a must-do experience) and 40 minutes from Hyena Pan Lodge (another immersive elephant destination). The area is dominated by mopane and Kalahari apple-leaf woodland and scrub – and supports good eland, roan and sable antelope populations.
The low-level perspective of the underground hides results in mesmerising photos
Perhaps the images below will go some way in illustrating what our exuberant group experienced during our time in Khwai Private Reserve. Though we all agreed that words and pictures did not adequately describe the mind-numbing underground hide experience.
We were fortunate to spend time with this large female leopard as she enjoyed a late morning snoozeClose-up photos captured from the underground hidesTower-top accommodation for sleeping under the stars at Sky BedsA leopard cub pauses to engage with us. Its sibling and mom were nearby but invisibleIncredible opportunities for abstract wildlife shots at Khwai’s underground hides; Our 2022 Photographer of the Year Alex Brackx and his wife Karen enjoying a mokoro outingThis vanquished pride male displays his battle scarsA Meyer’s parrot poses for its portrait
A muddy traipse through the waterhole by one of the behemoths, captured by the photographer at eye-levelA coppery-tailed coucal soaks up the first rays of the day, and an Africa barred owlet in late-afternoon sunlightThe mother leopard encountered several times during our safari resting on a low-hanging branch, without her cubsBull elephants put on a display at the waterholeA yellow-billed oxpecker enjoys a meal atop a young zebra; sundowners never tasted sweeter
Lodges we stayed at
Little Sable
This stylish camp in Khwai Private Reserve has eight canvas tents that each overlook a floodplain and beyond to the tree-lined bank of the deep Sable Alley water channel. The camp has a cosy feel, with privacy ensured by tall trees that also keep the tents in shade. Game-drive action starts the minute you leave the camp, and mokoro explorations of the waterways are just a short drive away.
Hyena Pan
Eight canvas tents in the shade of cathedral mopane trees look over a large waterhole that teems with elephants and other wildlife. This camp has a slightly eclectic feel – with a laid-back vibe. Set in the dry deciduous woodland back-country, this camp is best located to enjoy the underground photo hides and Sky Beds. Game drives will take you to the wildlife-rich water channels and floodplains of Sable Alley.
Sky Beds
This unique camp comprises three wooden ‘towers’ set far apart, with a central unit to enjoy meals and sundowners. Each tower has a middle-story rest room with shower and toilet and an upper-story bedroom open to the stars – making this a ‘million-star’ experience! The sky beds look over a waterhole popular with elephants, lions and other wildlife.
Human-wildlife conflict is an ever-growing threat to wildlife (and people) in Africa. Scientists from the Zambia Lion Project at the University of California examining the skulls of lions and leopards have found that simple forensic methods can improve the detection of previous non-lethal injuries from snares and shotguns.
Quantifying the extent of human-wildlife conflict is challenging for conservationists and policymakers, as many incidents go undetected and unreported. Mortality of animals is usually used to estimate its effects on wildlife, but this approach fails to include non-lethal injuries, which are difficult to detect. As a result, the potential for underestimation is high. Notably, this new research found definitive evidence of snare entanglement that greatly surpassed the previous estimates for the Luangwa and Kafue regions in Zambia. The researchers also discovered that nearly a third of the examined male lions had old shotgun-pellet injuries to their skulls.
These findings came from the forensic examination of the skulls and teeth of 112 trophy-hunted lions and 45 trophy-hunted leopards that lived in Zambia between 2000 and 2012. Researchers noticed unnatural wear marks on the teeth and, by comparison with evidence from pumas, foxes and coyotes, were able to conclude that these marks were made by biting and pulling on wire snares. The grooves left behind on the teeth are distinctive and distinguishable from natural tooth wear. Snares can have a devastating effect on both individual animals and the ecology of an area due to their indiscriminate nature and capacity for severe injury and suffering. For carnivores, the impact of snares is two-fold: depleting their natural supply of prey and causing potentially lethal injuries.
Using this method (along with other physical evidence such as characteristic scarring), the researchers found that 37% of the male lions and 22% of the leopards survived being snared and escaped during their lifetimes. Similarly, close examination of some of the skulls revealed evidence of shotgun injuries. In some cases, the pellets were still embedded in the skulls. In others, characteristic circular indentations, metal marks and bony inflammation associated with lead made these injuries easy to distinguish. 27% of the studied lion skulls had these injuries (none were found in the leopard skulls). While poachers do use shotguns, local community members may also fire shotguns to scare off carnivores without the intention of harming or killing them. However, the buckshot has the potential to cause serious injury and with the added concern of future lead poisoning.
16% of the lions from Kafue National Park and 7% from the Luangwa Valley had previously survived both snares and shotgun injuries. While it is conjecture, the researchers suggest several possible scenarios where one injury may have occasioned the other. For example, a snare injury could compromise a lion’s hunting ability, leading them to seek easier livestock prey and increasing their risk of encountering humans and being hazed with buckshot.
Interestingly, researchers concluded that the incidents of anthropogenic injuries to wild animals were higher in the Kafue region than in Luangwa. They had expected to find the opposite, as Luangwa has higher human population densities than Kafue, and poaching and human-wildlife conflict are generally more prevalent near human settlements. One possible reason is that anti-poaching and incentive programmes were more intensive and widespread in Luangwa, with an increased risk of detection due to anti-poaching programmes and higher tourist densities. However, it shows that human population size is not necessarily an accurate predictor of human-wildlife conflict, and there may be many more complex nuances.
Understanding and quantifying human-wildlife conflict is of vital importance to the survival and well-being of both Africa’s wildlife and people, as well as analysing the effectiveness of mitigation strategies. Through relatively simple forensic techniques, the authors of this new study were able to reveal more “cryptic” poaching and incidents of conflict between people and animals. They recommend that standardised photographs of the skulls and teeth of all live-captured or hunted carnivores be taken as a matter of course to aid scientific investigations.
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Ancient forest + nocturnal elephants + beach breaks
There is a plant so rare that it OCCURS ONLY on one rocky hilltop near my hometown. Nowhere else on the planet. Its human-given name is Encephalartos dyerianos – the Lillie cycad. Its numbers have been reduced to critically endangered levels by poachers – fueled by collectors and gardeners who feel that this prehistoric beauty should feature in their private collections rather than where nature intended. Go figure.
Anyway, two days ago, I hiked to the top of that hill and communed with these giants. I was accompanied by a small team of HEROES – anti-poaching folk who dedicate their lives (literally) to keeping rhinos safe. And cycads. The excellent news is that there is a plan being developed to ensure the safety in the wild of the remaining Lillie cycads. More about that later, once the ink is dry.
Elsewhere, South Africa’s Minister of the Environment et al has ordered sardine-fishing companies to CEASE FISHING in the vicinity of the last remaining African penguin colonies. The ban is temporary until all scientific input has been evaluated. Competition for food is thought to be among the pressures contributing to the decline of the African penguin population over the last century from more than a million breeding pairs to about 10,000 pairs. Hopefully, we will see more brave, far-sighted decisions like this from other people in positions of power.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
We have a SAND-IN-THE-TOES theme to our travel offers this week. It’s been a hectic year so far, and it sure feels good to think about that hammock, book and sunhat. Oh, and the strawberry daiquiri, of course. And why not blend your beach sojourn with a short bushveld immersion? Drop us an email with your wishes, and let’s start that discussion ??️?
ZANZIBAR SPECIAL OFFER
This 8-day escape to the island PARADISE that is Zanzibar will have your toes curling in delight as you reward yourself for a year well spent
MOZAMBIQUE BEACH BLISS – SPECIAL OFFER
It’s time to SPOIL YOURSELF and recharge those batteries, and there is no better destination than Mozambique’s pristine beaches and warm ocean. 8 days of exclusive barefoot luxury. Bliss
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
This week we are taking you on a journey to one of Kenya’s best-kept secrets: the Arabuko-Sokoke Forest. This ancient and almost eldritch forest, just inland from the small beach town of Watamu, is filled with weird, wonderful and endangered creatures found nowhere else on earth. The forest is a must-visit for naturalist and adventurers alike. Read our first story below to find out what makes this coastal forest so special.
New research shows that Chobe elephants are so affected by human farming activities, that they have learnt how to change their activity patterns to reduce risk of human encounters. Scientists found that Chobe’s intuitive elephants moved through the wildlife corridors in agricultural landscapes almost exclusively at night. Read more about this fascinating study in our second story below.
I have some good news about the environment! (Yes, you read that correctly.) Did you know that the ozone layer in the atmosphere is gradually recovering and may even be fully repaired in the next 40 years?
It has been 35 years since humanity took the necessary action to phase out the use of chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs – chemicals once used in refrigerators and aerosols). These were burning holes in our ozone – the stratosphere layer responsible for shielding our planet from much of the Sun’s UV rays. Since peak levels of the early 1990s, the quantities of CFCs and other ozone-depleting gases in the mid-latitude stratosphere have fallen over 50%.
It just goes to show what rapid action can achieve…
Artsy Safari
Travel client Christine recently visited Kambaku Safari Lodge, Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, for an AG safari with pro-artist, Alison Nicholls:
“You know a trip has been great when you are sad to see it end and are already thinking about the next one shortly after. Alison’s art safari helped me reconnect with my art in an inspiring and joyful way. With Alison’s expert advice I noticed an improvement in my sketches on day one and learnt how to better observe wildlife to translate what I was seeing onto my page. The daily drives helped hone my ability to capture what I was seeing quickly, and to feel more comfortable using watercolour to sketch.
The accommodation at Kambaku was amazing – as was the food, and hospitality of the lodge staff. The AG team were also great to work with. They were very responsive and helpful with all my questions and travel logistics to ensure a positive trip. I’m so glad I signed up for this memorable experience that I will always remember. ”
WATCH: The largest overland migration in the world has reached the Mara River and The Greatest Show on Earth – the crossing and recrossing of the river by the wildebeest herds – is in full swing at the moment. (43:13). Click here to watch
Kenya is renowned for her sweeping plains and savannas bursting to the brim with iconic animals. Yet she still has a few well-kept secrets to which only a fortunate few are privy. One such secret is the Arabuko-Sokoke Forest – an ancient and almost eldritch forest filled with weird, wonderful and endangered creatures found nowhere else on earth.
Arabuko-Sokoke Forest
The Arabuko-Sokoke Forest is the largest remaining fragment of dry coastal forests that once stretched along a significant portion of the East African coastline. Situated just inland of the small beach town of Watamu, the 416km2 (41,600 ha) forest lies 180km north of Mombasa, between Malindi and Kilifi. Within the Arabuko-Sokoke Forest Reserve, a tiny percentage of the total area is gazetted as the Arabuko-Sokoke National Park in the north-western corner.
The forest is a naturalist’s dream, an ornithologist’s delight, and a lepidopterist’s playground. Once ranked by BirdLife International as the second most crucial forest for bird conservation in mainland Africa, it is home to over 230 bird species. Six are globally threatened species, some endemic to the forest and surroundings. Six groups of butterflies endemic to the East African coast bejewel the leafy pathways and seasonal pools in shades of emerald, gold and cerulean. And the undergrowth shelters two unique little mammals, along with an assortment of tiny antelope and secretive predators.
Temperatures along Kenya’s coast can be sweltering at times, but beneath the towering boughs and thick canopies of Arabuko-Sokoke, this forest of rare riches offers a cool, shaded refuge for its unusual inhabitants. Three different types of forest predominate. Mixed forest typified by diverse tree flora extends across the wetter coastal sands in the east, while the Brachystegia (miombo) forests occupy the drier white sands in the forest’s centre. Finally, dense Cynometra occupies the majority of the forest on the red sands of the western edge of the park.
Arabuko-Sokoke Forest features towering boughs and thick canopies of mixed forest type, Brachystegia forest and Cynometra forests – presenting a wonder of diverse tree flora
Elephants to elephant shrews
Arabuko-Sokoke is home to herds of buffalo and elephant, restricted to a smaller section of the park by an electric fence to reduce human-wildlife conflict along the densely populated fringes of the forest. The buffalo are shy, and encounters are rare, but elephant sightings are a more regular occurrence, particularly during the dry season when the herds gather around the remaining water points.
However, most visitors to the forest are in search of far smaller and unusual creatures. One of the forest’s flagship species is a tiny animal known as the golden-rumped sengi, or elephant shrew. These distinctive animals are the largest elephant shrew species, with long, prehensile noses and brightly-coloured rumps that are undeniably endearing. Classified as ‘Endangered’ on the IUCN Red List, 90% of their known population is found in Arabuko-Sokoke Forest. The endemic Sokoke bushy-tailed mongoose is a little shier and seldom seen, as is the near-endemic Ader’s duiker (found only in Arabuko-Sokoke and Zanzibar).
Other notable mammal species include caracal, African civet, blue, red and common duiker, Garnetts and Zanzibar bushbaby, aardvark, Sykes’ monkey, yellow baboon and red-bellied and red-legged sun squirrel. Some even believe the forest is home to the elusive African golden cat, and recent camera trap projects have revealed that leopards occasionally move through the region.
A visit during the rainy seasons will reveal an array of frog species, including the Bunty’s dwarf toad, marbled shovel-snout and common squeaker, often broadcast only by their vocal contribution to the robust forest choir. Far more silent are the various reptiles such as chameleons, monitors, tropical girdled and green keel-bellied lizards, a myriad snakes and tortoises.
The golden-rumped sengi – the largest of the elephant shrews – is a flagship species in the forest; caracals also patrol the forest; elephants are present in a restricted section of the forest
Birders abound
Arabuko-Sokoke may be one of Kenya’s best-kept secrets, but it has long been a bucket-list destination for birders worldwide. The adorable Sokoke scops owl, in its many varied colour forms, is a highly localised scops owl found only here, in the Dakatcha woodlands in Kenya and the Manga and Kwamgumi forest reserves in lowland Tanzania. The endangered Clarke’s weaver is even more restricted, and this distinctive bird lives exclusively in Arabuko-Sokoke and the Dakatcha woodlands to the south. Forest birding may be challenging, but Sokoke pipits, East Coast akalats, spotted ground thrushes and Amani sunbirds make the aching neck and tired feet well worth it. These species are all also globally threatened, with limited distributions that include the forests of Arabuko-Sokoke.
The reserve also encompasses the banks and mangrove forests of tidal Mida Creek, where visitors can spend time in bird hides watching the antics of the flamingos, crab-plovers, storks, plovers, whimbrels and herons.
A pair of Sokoke scops owls; the view from Nyari View Point showing different forest types; an eastern nicator sighted in the forest; birders will delight in the diverse and unique bird species present here; a Sokoke pipit spotted in the undergrowth; an eastern green tinkerbird perches in the lower branches of the forest
The wood for the trees
Arabuko-Sokoke is all that remains of what was once a vast forested region. While it is now under the dual protective management of the Kenya Forest and Wildlife Services, the forest is still threatened. Illegal charcoal burning and harvesting continue to damage the fragile forest ecosystem significantly.
Fortunately, dedicated organisations and individuals are working hard to improve relations with neighbouring communities and ensure that benefits from increased tourism reach those living alongside the forest.
Unobtrusive roads provide access through the dense forest
Explore & Stay
Arabuko-Sokoke Forest can be explored by road and on foot, but the company of an experienced guide is essential to unpack the forest’s secrets. Not only do they know all the favoured hiding spots of the scops owls and the sengis, but the forest comes alive under their expert and intimate knowledge of the fauna and flora. For those with a yen for a longer hike, a trip to the Nyari Cliffs offers breath-taking views over the canopy, Mida Creek and the glistening Indian Ocean.
The forest is within easy reach of both the bustling beachside metropolis of Malindi and the more intimate and colourful Watamu, where guests can enjoy the best aspects of this section of East Africa’s coastline. There is an endless variety of accommodation options ranging from backpackers to high-end villas, but there are also cheap campsites inside the forest for those looking for a break from the excitement (and some shade). The historical Ruins of Gedi in the northernmost section of the forest also offer a fascinating glimpse into the history of the East African coast, one of the continent’s most decadent trade and cultural melting pots.
The historical Ruins of Gedi can be viewed in the northernmost section of the forest
The forest is accessible year-round, though storms are expected during the “long rains” of April and May, and it may be quite humid during the “short rains” of October and November.
Arabuko-Sokoke Forest is a global biodiversity hotspot, characterised by high levels of endemism and seeped in a sense of mysticism. From birds to beasties and everything in between, it is the perfect complement to a safari in the Maasai Mara or Tsavo National Park for a complete appreciation of the astonishing variety of life on display in Kenya.
Want to go on a safari to Arabuko-Sokoke Forest? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team, scroll down to after this story.
The elephants of Chobe appear to have learnt how to assess human risk and mitigate their chances of an antagonistic encounter with humans
Under cover of darkness, an elephant cow leads her herd through a wildlife corridor surrounded by crop fields… The herd of elephants moves silently through the human-dominated landscape, opting for the secrecy afforded by nocturnal passage. In fact, they are so affected by human farming activities that they will not pass this way during the daylight hours. This is according to a new study comparing elephant activity times and the use of wildlife corridors depending on the type of human development surrounding them.
The research conducted by Elephants Without Borders used data from 2012 to 2019 to investigate the impact of human pressures on elephants. The study compares six wildlife corridors in the Chobe District in northern Botswana in two vastly different human-dominated landscapes. The first was the townships of Kasane and Kazungula, while the second was the farming villages of the Chobe Enclave along the Chobe River floodplain.
Using motion-triggered cameras, scientists found that elephants moved through the wildlife corridors in agricultural landscapes almost exclusively at night, between the hours of 18:00 and 06:00. Their use periods overlapped with those of humans by just 9.1% and were not affected by crop season (suggesting that crop raiding was not the motivation). By contrast, those travelling through the urban areas were less obviously selective about their activity timings, overlapping with those of humans by 26.8%.
This research is consistent with previous research indicating that elephants change their activity patterns to reduce the risk of human encounters in a human-dominated landscape. However, the urban-activity patterns of this new research stand out. As lead author Dr Tempe Adams explains, these findings are remarkable because they show that elephants appear to distinguish different types of human developments associated with diverse risk levels and adjust their behaviours accordingly.
Research such as this becomes important as increasing human development creates more isolated islands of ever-shrinking wild habitats. Wildlife corridors connecting these remaining wilderness areas are now an essential management tool in conserving many iconic species. These corridors allow access to seasonal resources, dispersal (and associated genetic diversity) and increased resilience to changing environmental conditions. However, planning future corridors and ensuring their maintenance cannot take place without a comprehensive understanding of how different land uses and human pressures (and seasonal variations) impact how and when wild animals use these corridors.
As this research shows, the elephants of Chobe appear to have learnt how to assess human risk and mitigate their chances of an antagonistic encounter with humans. Their activity patterns differ based on surrounding human land-use on an hourly and daily basis.
Things that go bump in the night. So Lizz and I were lying awake in bed, listening to what sounded like a football game in the ceiling. Then, at first light, we spied a tree squirrel exiting the roof carrying a tiny baby bundle to safety. The genets are back, or perhaps it’s a rock monitor – both regularly raid our ceiling area for squirrel snacks. Whenever the genets are in residence our two Jack Russells are on high nocturnal alert as the genets comb the verandah for frogs and insects amongst the cushions. We call it ‘genet TV’ – the dogs watch spellbound as these beautiful lithe predators work the area on the other side of glass sliding doors – barely a meter away. On one occasion, a small-spotted genet touched noses through the glass with our entranced dogs – a surreal moment.
Two days ago, the foam nest frogs in the garden were croaking at each other – usually a sign of incoming rain. At the height of our dry season – surely not? Yesterday it rained, albeit briefly.
Life is good. Love it.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
Keen to end your year on a high? We’re here to help, soemail us your wishesand let’s craft your dream summer safari!
Or, look at the two options below and tell us how to adapt them to suit you. Your wish is our command 😉
BEACH BLISS It’s time to SPOIL YOURSELF and recharge those batteries.
There is no better destination than Mozambique’s pristine beaches and warm ocean. This 8-day SPECIAL OFFER is the ultimate in exclusive barefoot luxury. Bliss!
MARA, WITHOUT THE CROWDS The migrating herds have left, and so have the high-season crowds. What remains are the big cats, hyenas, elephants and other resident species. Expect Maasai Mara magic and relatively few other tourists also in on this secret. This 6-day package is well-priced and popular with regular Mara visitors.
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Spring has well and truly sprung and the chill has finally dissolved from the Johannesburg air. And the energy in the AG office is electric, with our travel team vigorously sending adventurers off to their long-awaited journeys across the continent.
In celebration of epic African journeys, this week we’ve published a first-hand account of a once-in-a-lifetime trek through Bwindi Impentetrable Forest. Ryan Biller recently visited Uganda for a long-awaited chance to come face-to-face with mountain gorillas. His experience did not disappoint. Ryan also spent time with the people of Buhoma Village, who play an integral part in the conservation of the forest and its inhabitants – and captured some striking portraits. Check out our first story below.
In our second story, Jamie has penned a tribute to the littlest of enigmatic creatures – the miniature owls of Africa. From the scops-owl to white-faced owls and owlets, these tiny birds of prey are some of the most charisimatic avian residents of the continent. Click through below for all there is to know about these small endearing owl species.
It is almost unanimously agreed that otters are one of the cutest animals. Perhaps the only dissenters are those that have found themselves on the wrong end of their sharp teeth and powerful bites (though attacks on humans are unusual).
But did you know that giant otters the size of lions once roamed Ethiopia? Before you gloss over that fact, just stop for a minute and imagine an otter, with all its sinuous agility, that stands roughly as high as your waist and weighs 200kg. All predator, all teeth.
The fossils of Enhydriodon omoensis date back to between 3.5 and 2.5 million years ago – around the time our close relatives, the australopithecines, would have been wandering around. And isotype analysis of the otter’s teeth suggests they were land-based hunters. So what did they eat? I’ll leave that to your imagination.
WATCH: Witness cheetah mom Sita hunting a Thomson’s gazelle on the vast plains of the Maasai Mara, in this snippet from Disney’s African Cats. Just a taste of what you can expect on a Maasai Mara Secret Season adventure (see the travel desk above to book your own trip to experience the magic of Mara) (02:24). Click here to watch
Owls are innately compelling animals. They haunt the world’s nights on silent wings, adorned in soft, subtle colours and filling the evenings with soft hoots or piercing whistles (or, in the case of the barn owl, heart-stopping screams). Yet while the larger owl species are somewhat awe-inspiring and majestic, the miniature owls of Africa are perhaps best set to capture the imagination. Of all of the continent’s charismatic avian residents, these minute little predators have the most astonishing array of anthropomorphic facial expressions. From wide-eyed curiosity or imperious judgement to surly irritation or steely fury, the smaller owl species are both endearing and oddly relatable.
What is small?
In fairness, this is a somewhat subjective judgement call for the Strigiformes species (owls), which range in size from the sparrow-sized elf owl (occuring in the southwestern United States and central Mexico) to the enormous Blakiston’s fish owl (native to China, Japan, and Russia) with a two-metre wingspan. However, for the purposes of this article, miniature/small owls are considered to be those under around 30cm (roughly 12 inches) in height. In Africa, that includes four different genera of owl: the scops-owls (Otus spp.), the owlets (Glaucidium spp.), the white-faced owls (Ptilopsis spp.) and the little owl (Athene noctua).
The small owls occupy a wide variety of habitats and very similar ecological niches, with a predominantly arthropod-based diet that may also extend to small mammals, birds, reptiles, and amphibians.
African scops-owl; Sokoke scops-owl; southern white-faced owl; and pearl-spotted owlet
Scops-owls – the subtle and secretive
The Otus genus is the largest genus of owls, incorporating at least 58 species and thus comprising roughly 20% of the world’s 220-plus owl species. The scops-owls were once grouped together with the New World screech-owls (now reclassified as Megascops). While the evolutionary relationship has yet to be fully elucidated, the scops and screech-owls are believed to be closely related.
The scops-owls are entirely nocturnal, spending their days hidden in the trees and relying on the extraordinary camouflage afforded by their mottled grey or brown plumage. As a result, they are highly cryptic species and usually only revealed by their gentle “prrrp” call, a characteristic sound that epitomises the African night. Only those with exceptionally sharp eyes (or intimate knowledge of their favourite roosting sites) can spot scops-owls roosting during the day. And those that do succeed will probably find themselves subjected to a rather haughty glare.
African scops-owl is probably the best known and most widely distributed of the African scops species. As the smallest owl in southern Africa, they stand just 15–17cm tall (to put that into perspective, these little birds could fit into an average coffee mug). However, one of the most remarkable aspects of the Otus genus is their extraordinary diversity in various fragmented habitats. This applies in particular to the endemic species of the Indian Ocean archipelagos and islands but also isolated patches of forest in West, Central and East Africa.
There are endemic scops-owls in Madagascar, Seychelles, Pemba Island off East Africa, and Karthala, Mohéli and Anjouan Comoran islands (each considered a separate species named for their respective islands). São Tomé has a scops-owl, and a new species was discovered on the neighbouring island of Príncipe in 2016. On the mainland, the cinnamon-coloured sandy scops-owl is found throughout the tropical rainforests of Central and West Africa. The endangered Sokoke scops-owl occurs only in the scattered forests of coastal Kenya and lowland Tanzania. These fascinating birds were first identified in the Arabuko-Sokoke Forest Reserve near Watamu, Kenya, and are highly polymorphic, ranging in colour from a drab grey to rufous.
The Mascarene owls of Mauritius, Réunion and Rodrigues, now known to have been scops-owls, are all extinct.
Clockwise from top: A group of Sokoke scops-owls; Sokoke scops-owls showing colour variances; African scops-owl; Madagascar scops-owl; African scops-owl
The owlets – noisy and conspicuous
In North and South America, owls from the genus Glaucidium are known as pygmy owls, but in Africa and Asia, they are referred to as owlets. They are characterised by round heads, prominent brows, a conspicuous lack of ear tufts and bright yellow eyes. Many of the owlet species are active at dawn and dusk (and even throughout the day in winter), and their piercing call-and-response whistles are unmistakable. While still small, they are far more conspicuous than their scops-owl cousins and almost invariably attract the ire of other bird species that descend en masse to mob them.
The two most well-known and widely distributed species are the pearl-spotted owlet and the African barred owlet. The two are sympatric across most of their respective ranges and can be easily confused. The pearl-spotted owlet is slightly smaller, with distinct dark false eyespots on the back of its head, while the barring on the chest of the barred owlet is more well-defined than the soft and indistinct streaks of the pearl-spotted owlet. Other species include the Sjöstedt’s barred owlet of west-central Africa, the Albertine owlet endemic to the Albertine Rift and the pretty little red-chested owlet of West and Central Africa.
The white-faced owls – the shapeshifters
There are two members of the Ptilopsis genus, found only in Africa: the northern and southern white-faced owls. They are often incorrectly termed white-faced scops-owls, and, while there is a degree of similarity (ear tufts and mottled grey colouration), the scops-owls and white-faced owls belong to separate genera.
White-faced owls have interesting strategies when confronted with a potential threat. One approach is to spread their wings, puff out their plumage and hunch over in an intimidation display. Alternatively, they may adopt what is known as “concealment posture”. The owls draw themselves up tall, pull their feathers tight against their bodies, narrow their eyes and stretch up their ear tufts. The transformation is utterly remarkable and almost a little uncanny. Many owls, including scops-owls and screech-owls, have this ability, but the change in white-faced owls is theatrical. As the name “concealment posture” suggests, it is believed to help the owl look like a tree branch. It is especially disconcerting when a roosting pair is encountered, one completely normal and the other looking like what can only be described as an evil sorcerer in a children’s film.
Clockwise from top: A northern pygmy owl in Arizona, USA; southern white-faced owl; northern white-faced owl; African barred owlet; and pearl spotted owlet
The little owl – the mythologically wise
Finally, the little owl may be well-known in Europe and Asia, but few realise that its range extends to the northern fringes of the African continent. They are similar in appearance to the owlets and roughly the same size, but their ranges do not generally overlap.
The little owl is also sometimes called the owl of Minerva and was closely associated with goddesses Athena and Minerva in ancient Greek and Roman mythology. This link with the goddesses of wisdom may explain why the owl is often a symbol of wisdom and intelligence in Western cultures.
The little owl, also known as the owl of Minerva, has a range that expands to North Africa, Asia and Europe
Would you like to do your bit for owl conservation in Africa?
In Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, I find the jungle of my childhood imagination. This forest is so thick and tangled with vines that a T-rex could emerge from this expansive sea of green and I wouldn’t be surprised. The air hangs heavy with humidity, and pearls of dew glisten on the leaves against the early morning light, barely slipping through the canopy overhead. My heart is hammering the walls of my chest as our small team of Ugandan rangers, dressed in camouflage uniforms, leads us into the fable-like Bwindi Impenetrable Forest on a trekking expedition, in search of mountain gorillas.
Silent searching
The prospect of seeing mountain gorillas with my own eyes is what brings me to Uganda. To finally trek into the heart of this 25,000-year-old rainforest is enchanting in its own way, even before catching a mere whiff of the black-haired great apes that we are hoping to encounter. The forest itself is a living manifestation of the illustrated pages of dinosaur books I read as a kid. This primaeval forest is so dense and expansive that it appears prehistoric. It is no surprise that mountain gorillas have a preference for this tropical haven.
Bwindi Impenetrable National Park is known for its dense, ancient rainforest thickets, and thick clouds of mist. With altitudes ranging from 1,160 to 2,607 meters, the forest has some of the highest levels of biodiversity in Uganda
Tufts of rain clouds hang over the forest like ghosts, lending an eerie beauty. We trek onward, with our guide, Goreth Niyibizi, leading the way. As a sheen of sweat envelopes my face and I wave bugs from my forehead, Goreth and the other three rangers come to an abrupt stop. We obediently follow suit, anxiously peering over their shoulders and into the sea of green hoping that our sought-after primates are nearby. “Gorillas?” I whisper into Goreth’s ear, between panting and trying to catch my breath. She holds up an index finger and wags it at me. “No,” she breathes softly, her voice a notch above a whisper. “Not yet.”
Trekking deeper into the forest in silence, led by knowledgeable guides, brings electric anticipation that heightens the senses
We continue onward, our group numbering a mere nine people: Goreth, two other Ugandan trackers, a local porter, an armed escort, myself, my brother, my mother, and a traveller from Czechoslovakia.
After walking for some time, the woman from Czechoslovakia quietly slips behind us and into the bushes, using it as a makeshift bathroom to relieve herself. She is quickly swallowed up into the undergrowth; she likely has more privacy in the forest than she has in many public restrooms back home. Moments later, a yelp emits from the swirl of vegetation. She staggers out of the bush, dishevelled with pants barely pulled up, a look of adrenaline-infused excitement on her face. A mother gorilla and her infant baby had sauntered past our Czech friend mid-stream. We’ve found the mountain gorillas. Or they’ve found us.
Face to face with the great apes
The ensuing moments are surreal, and will forever be etched into my memory. Up ahead of us, our trackers peer through the trees at a silverback, and behind us, the mother gorilla and her baby are now sitting three meters from us.
We all ogle the mother gorilla, who so gingerly, and with such care, cradles her baby – her maternal mannerisms human-like. We are, after all, 98% identical on a genetic level.
Any photographer knows that taking a photo is reflexive, as it usually is for me. But in this moment, I don’t want to experience these beings through the viewfinder and lens of my camera. It is a scene to be documented with the naked eye. I snap a few photos, careful not to detract from the encounter itself.
After snapping a few images of the gorillas, videographer Ryan Biller put away the camera to immerse himself in the once-in-a-lifetime experience
We spend an hour with a group of the great apes, crouched silently in the bushes, mouths gaping in awe, as we observe the silverback – a hulk of vegetarian muscle. His demeanour is protective, as with any good father, yet so incredibly gentle. We learn that this is the Mukiza gorilla family. Like a few gorilla families in Rwanda and Uganda, the Mukiza gorilla family has been habituated, meaning that they’re somewhat used to and familiar with the presence of people.
We watch as young gorillas – little bundles of thick fur – somersault through the undergrowth as they playfully wrestle each other. Mothers groom themselves and their tiny offspring as members of the group gnaw on the leafy greens all around them.
Though completely wild, the mountain gorillas seem unperturbed – even bored – by our presence. We keep a respectful distance, but the gorillas don’t mind us. We garner a vague interest from some of the young ones, but they are more infatuated with the challenge of climbing trees and tumbling around the forest floor. We occasionally receive a stare from the mighty silverback, likely gauging whether these strange, less hairy primates are any kind of threat. We earn his trust, and he graciously allows us to stay.
Conservation through collaboration
Many projected that mountain gorillas would be extinct by now – even the great Dian Fossey did. But thanks to intensive conservation efforts, the world’s mountain gorilla population is on the rise. We can thank rangers such as Goreth for being on the frontlines of defending these magnificent creatures and their remarkable homes. Another contributor to this is the collaborations formed linking tourism revenue, research, and communities. With all working together in conservation efforts, there is an incentive for those involved to protect the gorillas. Thanks to these collaborations, the IUCN conservation status of the species has been reduced from critically endangered to endangered.
A young girl, Ruth, peeks over a fence in Buhoma Village, just outside Bwindi; a young Batwa man, Idi, who lives just outside the forest, holds his little brother close; Sari, a village elder and member of the Batwa people, poses for a photo
Community members from Buhoma, a small village nestled against the very edge of the forest, play an integral role in conservation efforts. In turn, the community is dependent on revenue from tourism for income. Many of the park’s rangers and guides live in Buhoma Village. Their children go to school here, and a small health clinic nearby is funded by income generated by eco-tourism.
School children pose outside their school in Buhoma, situated on the edge of the gorilla-inhabited rainforest; Ryan Biller poses with Ugandan driver Martin, Ryan’s brother Pete, his mother Teresa and Martin’s wife after a celebratory lunch following their gorilla experience; Students from Buhoma walk home after school along the outskirts of the forest
Another group of people who have settled within the vicinity of Buhoma are from the Batwa tribe – a tribe indigenous to the region, whose people once lived and sustained themselves entirely within the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. When conservation efforts to protect the dwindling mountain gorilla population picked up steam, the Batwa people were evicted from the forest by authorities. Their removal was done on the grounds that resources in the forest are limited, and that infection and disease can be transferred between humans and the gorillas. Given that their survival previously depended on hunting and gathering in the forest, the Batwa have sacrificed much for the sake of the conservation of the great apes. The Batwa became conservation refugees and now live on a small parcel of land just outside Buhoma. Some can bring in an income through cultural tourism – by sharing their traditional rites and rituals with visitors through a ‘Batwa Experience’. Tourists can hear the music of the tribe, learn about their religion, skills in food gathering and hunting techniques, and interact with the tribe. But the move to evict the Batwa was a controversial one. Critics say authorities did not allocate enough space for resettlement or assist with employment and other basic needs.
Traditional healer Amat poses in his home. Amat uses medicinal plants from the forest to remedy villagers’ ailments
While tourism brings invaluable income to the Buhoma and Batwa communities, there is still much work to develop these collaborations to benefit all parties. What is sure, though, is that the conservation of these gorillas would not have been possible without community involvement and collaboration.
It is a great privilege for tourists such as myself to be able to experience these amazing creatures in person. More work remains for the conservation of the gorillas and to build and sustain neighbouring communities, but there is no doubt hope for the future of these animals. Our planet is far better off with mountain gorillas and their rainforest homes like Bwindi than without.
Bwindi is the fairy-tale forest we dreamed about as children; it is also where you can meet and spend time with gentle mountain gorillas. Read more here.
The mountain gorilla is the only great ape with an increasing population despite continuous pressure on its habitat. Check out the population stats here.
Our 2022 Photographer of the Year Alex Brackx and his wife Karen enjoying a mokoro outing in Khwai Private Reserve, Botswana
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??? Where to safari now + understanding snakes + Pongola’s elephant crisis
Just back from hosting our 2022 Photographer of the Year winners in Khwai Private Reserve, Botswana. We relished epic wildlife encounters, enjoyed superb hospitality from our hosts, and forged life-long friendships. I have never laughed so much while on safari as I did with this crew. Thanks to you all. Expect my report back in the coming months. But there is also a contemplative side to this note.
After 6 action-packed days with the winners, Lizz and I headed off for 4 days of bliss in Selinda and were again blown away by the experience. This got me thinking …
About the role that brave safari lodge pioneers like Colin Bell of Natural Selection (our hosts in Khwai) and Dereck & Beverly Joubert of Great Plains (our hosts in Selinda) play when they invest patient, long-term capital into these wilderness areas to generate sustainable, responsible revenue streams for local communities and stable ecosystems for wildlife. Often these landscapes have been abused by former occupants, and it takes years for the wildlife to recover and gain confidence in a human presence. The costs are significant and, let’s face it, tourism does not generate the steady cash flow that investors in mines, banks and technology companies enjoy. They are, of course, supported by a host of people – including their families, colleagues and investors – but what makes these eco-warriors so special is their grit and determination to make a difference. These businesses survive pandemics, presidents and the trials and tribulations of operating in remote, wild areas. There are others, like Beks Ndlovu of African Bush Camps, all of whom play this essential trail-blazing role. Many lodge owners survive the storms without access to large pools of capital – I bow my head to you all.
This week we’re celebrating the most remarkable of creatures: snakes. Whether you squirm at the thought of encountering snakes or harbour a deep respect for these marvels of natural engineering, you’ll find an appreciation for serpents when delving into our exploration of these complex predators in our first story.
When is the best safari season in Africa? The vast African continent straddles the equator and six time zones – meaning profoundly differing vegetation, climates and topography. This also means that there is always a good safari season in Africa. We’ve put together a go-to guide for your safari in September, October and November. Check it out in our third story below.
Some time ago, we published an op-ed by Malcolm Thomson on Pongola Game Reserve’s elephant management crisis. Conservationists Pete Ruinard and Paul Cryer have penned a thought-provoking response to this op-ed, unpacking some of the issues at play. Our second story is well worth the read for those seeking to understand the complexities of elephant-population management.
Happy celebrating Africa!
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Fads are a human thing, right? We’ve seen ineffective diets, horrendous fashions, and stupid social media challenges all come and go.
But did you know that orcas seem to follow fads? Recently, pods of orcas have taken to breaking the rudders off boats around the European coast, and no one is quite sure why. They aren’t hurting anyone, just engaging in some minor property damage.
Is that a fad? Well, maybe, maybe not, but it’s not the first time orcas have been observed copying each other. In the summer of 1987, one female took to wearing a dead salmon as a hat. In the blink of an eye, the rest of her pod followed, and soon, several other pods did as well. Then salmon went out of fashion, and they all stopped…The orca equivalent of the tide-pod challenge?
OK, so the prime safari season is in full swing. You may have missed out this year but still long for a little bush time during the coming festive season. We’re here to help!
Planning a festive season safari takes more experience and precision than the sure-thing prime safari season of June to August – because of the arrival of summer rains and what this means for wildlife movement. So what to do, where to go?
We recommend the following:
Take advantage of lower ‘green / secret’ season rates that some lodges offer ⛺
Focus on seasonal natural events at this time of year – like the migration of bats in Kasanka (Zambia), zebras in the salt pans of Botswana and wildebeest in Serengeti (Tanzania) ?
Bulk up on your bird list by ticking off the numerous avian summer migrants ?
End your bushveld safari with a spot of beach time. Did someone say strawberry daiquiris? ?
Join our scientific editor and safari guide Jamie Paterson as she searches for predators in the Sabi Sands (Greater Kruger, South Africa) early in the new year. Limited availability. ?
teamAG is on standbyfor your questions and to bring your festive season wishlist to life 🙂
Snapping away in Botswana
The winners of Photographer of the Year 2022 have just returned from their safari in Khwai Private Reserve, Botswana, where they stayed at Natural Selection’s Little Sable and Hyena Pan camps, and Skybeds. Runner Up Geo Cloete joined the trip, and writes:
“A HUGE thank you to the sponsors! It sure was a trip that dreams are made of. With so many new lifetime memories created, it will take a good amount of time to process them all and file them in the ‘it really happened’ folder.
An equally big thank you to Africa Geographic! The professionalism and passion with which Simon and his team ensure their clients enjoy the best of the best is truly admirable!
I celebrate all the beauty of the last seven days and will treasure it for the rest of my life. The gourmet meals, the beautiful people who became friends and undoubtedly the stars of the trip, and the African wildlife. May we continue to strive to secure a bright future for them all for generations to come.”
WATCH: Watch a rare and tense encounter between an elusive brown hyena and two spotted hyenas at a waterhole in Madikwe Game Reserve, captured by Jamala Madikwe (02:02). Click here to watch
Elephant gathering at the water’s edge in Pongola Game Reserve
Update 20 January 2023: There has been an increase in the number of human-wildlife conflict incidents on the eastern shores of Jozini Dam in recent months, with a reported 69 elephants roaming the dam’s shores after escaping Pongola Game Reserve East into Phongola Nature Reserve. According to the reports, at least 25 elephants have been killed in poaching incidents related to this conflict. In an incident on January 11th, tourists on a cruise boat on Jozini Dam were forced to take cover as poachers were firing shots nearby. Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife announced it will be engaging with the PGRE to translocate the elephants back onto the PGRE property or into a suitable protected area as early as March//April 2023. Ezemvelo said it had also engaged with the local community to discuss the recent incidents of human-wildlife conflict.
The recent article by Malcolm Thomson on Pongola’s elephant management crisis included vital perspectives on elephant management strategies within Pongola Game Reserve (PGR) in KwaZulu-Natal. We hope to set some facts straight in response to Thomson’s sentiments.
Thomson’s assertions were filled with inaccuracies, not only about general elephant management and its applicable laws, but also regarding the long process of building scientific and managerial knowledge about elephants living in relatively small and contained reserves. Worse still, there are glaring inaccuracies in these assertions that apply to the elephant population that Malcolm Thomson is referring to in his piece.
Elephant management must be viewed from several geographical and temporal scales simultaneously, from continental and national perspectives to small fenced reserves. Even the roughest estimates of elephant numbers show a dramatic decline in Africa over the last hundred years, so it is misleading to argue that Africa has too many elephants, and their endangered status confirms this. When viewing the broader situation, the issue of localised areas with too many elephants is a problem of distribution rather than over-population. This is especially so considering that 76% of Africa’s elephants are transboundary.
The intricacies of elephant management
In instituting the National Norms and Standards for the Management of Elephants, the South African government has taken a bold and progressive step towards managing elephants in terms of broad and local objectives while doing its best to include updated knowledge on elephant biology. The comments in Thomson’s article from Minister of Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment, Barbara Creecy, confirm a government commitment to integrated problem solving and public/private partnerships. The Minister comments that there is a “need for innovative and balanced partnership arrangements between state protected areas and adjacent private wildlife areas” to develop “win-win sustainable arrangements, with strong conservation outcomes”.
Malcolm Thomson asserts that the wishes of private landowners and the well-being of small, contained elephant populations have been ignored by the broader elephant management strategies and the Norms and Standards in particular. While the Norms and Standards are far from perfect, requiring periodic updating and revision, they make provision for private landowners with elephants to participate in a more inclusive and holistic elephant strategy. The amended Norms and Standards will likely be gazetted for implementation during 2022. By timeously submitting their elephant management plans to their provincial conservation authorities, reserve owners can benefit from a wealth of information, knowledge and funding. If, however, a landowner submits plans late or if those plans reveal a strategy aimed at personal wealth acquisition to the detriment of biodiversity conservation, then the system will expose those deficiencies. The PGR elephant management plan was submitted to the provincial authority on 8 September 2021 without sufficient time for review or to obtain the necessary provincial signatories before their existing plan expired on 16 November 2021. There is added significance with the late PGR application in that the reserve’s draft plan involved cooperation with neighbouring landowners, such that the elephants could move between multiple areas. This would make more elephant habitat available and relieve pressure on PGR. This central strategy of elephant range expansion within the draft revision of the PGR elephant management plan was omitted from Malcolm Thomson’s writing, leaving an impression that the elephant population pressure on PGR is more severe than it is in reality and that there is no alternative other than lethal control. The complexity of having elephants on small reserves is not unique to PGR, and there has been a large volume of peer-reviewed studies on these exact situations, with much of this research being utilised in the compilation and review of the Norms and Standards. Small private reserves have access to this work and can contribute meaningfully to advancements in this field.
Contemplating immunocontraception
Within the Norms and Standards, there is a hierarchy of actions about limiting elephant population numbers. One of these is immunocontraception, which Thomson dismisses as impractical, unethical and costly. Peer-reviewed scientific data collected and published over nearly 30 years would suggest otherwise. Further work on immunocontraception methods and long-term effects on population dynamics are ongoing. Immunocontraception is reversible, delivered quickly and remotely, with only short-term herd interference, and there are no hormonally induced behavioural effects. Immunocontraception is recommended in the Norms and Standards as one of the first go-to methods. It is used by 42 national, provincial, private and community reserves in South Africa (excluding the Kruger National Park), with over 1,200 cows currently under treatment. Thomson’s claims that immunocontraception is unethical are unfounded.
As for it being costly, the expenses of elephant immunocontraception are comparable with management interventions for other species, such as lion contraception, disease-free buffalo testing and even game census – all of which are part and parcel of reserve management. In the case of immunocontraception, the literature has shown that the cost benefits of limiting elephant population growth outweigh the expenditure. Of additional relevance here is that Humane Society International – Africa offered PGR immunocontraception for three years such that the costs would not fall on PGR. While there may have been certain conditions associated with this process, free immunocontraception was made available to PGR and was not accepted. What is clear is that Thomson’s dismissal of immunocontraception is unwarranted.
Thomson also comments on the difficulties that arise in trying to expand the land available to the elephants. But the elephants in the PGR case have achieved habitat expansion on their own, having shifted to the neighbouring Pongola Nature Reserve managed by Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife (Ezemvelo). The movement of these elephants to adjacent land relieves the pressure that Thomson was bemoaning (at the time of writing, there were no elephant herds in PGR “destroying habitat”). The managers and ecologists of Ezemvelo are working on the details of this impromptu elephant distribution to determine whether it can be maintained to the benefit of elephants, ecosystems and stakeholders. It should be added that, despite many logistical and financial constraints, Ezemvelo is doing excellent and progressive work, including holding meetings with local landowners and communities. (It is also worth noting that PGR management attended these meetings without expressing the views in Thomson’s article. Minutes of those meetings are public documents).
Elephant translocation and habitat expansion
Thomson’s criticism of translocation is similarly misleading. Knowledge of elephant translocation has increased enormously over the past two decades, with routine operations conducted today that were unheard of 25 years ago. Progress regarding the logistics of moving elephants and the technical means of capturing them, combined with veterinary advancements, is resulting in ongoing improvements that secure the greater well-being of individual elephants and family/group structure. This facilitates a far greater success rate with translocations. It also increases the distances that elephant groups can be moved. This, in turn, means that the possible sites for translocations are growing in number and distance from the source population: elephant translocation can now be viewed from a continental perspective. The value of this knowledge as an emerging management tool is increasingly realised and will significantly affect what is possible in African elephant conservation.
Within the United Nations Convention on Biological Diversity (of which South Africa is a signatory), large interconnected protected areas are identified as one of the solutions to the impending biodiversity crisis (the effects of which would overshadow the economic impact of Covid-19). The presence of megaherbivores within an interconnected protected area network is one of the indicators of success. But it should be stressed that a critical component of expanding areas for biodiversity protection is to avoid the errors of the past, where environmental protection was used as a thinly veiled ploy for the wealth-capture of elites. In this country (and others), this involved legalising a process that commodified and exploited the environment and all those South African people outside of the defined elites. Historical examples of this across the colonised world included promulgating legislation that denied people access to land they considered sacred and had utilised for centuries to sustain their livelihoods. In more recent (and current) renditions of the same principle, environments of critical ecological importance, both locally and globally, are being compromised and traded for political gain and monetary extraction.
While work is being done on identifying and protecting critical biodiversity areas, existing gene pools of species need to be protected. In the case of elephants, this includes limiting population growth (the root of the problem) in contained areas until bolder plans for elephant introductions in Africa are realised and feasible. In anticipation of an expanded purpose, immunocontraception research is dealing with long-term population dynamics and advanced delivery methods. Current methods do not hold all the answers, but these fields are advancing fast.
Elephant management is changing
Thomson’s summation of elephant management is simplistic, exploitative, elitist and cherry-picks scientific evidence to arrive at outdated and erroneous conclusions. For example, claiming that “all species should be managed under similar principles” glosses over the fact that elephants have advanced levels of intelligence and self-awareness, with complex communication illustrating focused sentience, emotional attachment and empathy. The Norms and Standards recognise this, and recognition of this fact is a guiding principle within elephant management strategies. As our awareness of elephants’ advanced intellectual, emotional and social capacities increases and becomes widely recognised, public perception of appropriate elephant treatment shifts. Management strategies that were acceptable three decades ago are unlikely to endure. Owners and managers of elephant reserves who do not take cognisance of this will likely suffer the consequences of the public’s disfavour and consequent economic censure.
The Norms and Standards recognise that elephants are indeed “special”, but it should be made clear that the regulation of hunting and culling are included within the document. They are, however, recognised as very different activities, not to be conflated. Within the Norms and Standards, culling is the last resort on a hierarchy of potential management actions, some of which are mentioned (and dismissed) in Thomson’s article: habitat manipulation, contraception, and translocation. For culling to be considered, all of those alternatives must have been proven to be justifiably impractical or unfeasible.
The hunting of elephants is legal in South Africa; some people want to hunt elephants, and parties have built businesses out of this demand. The Norms and Standards recognise and accommodate this. Had PGR adhered to the regulations, they could legally hunt elephants. Reserve managers should understand that culling and hunting are regulated differently for good reasons. Blame cannot be laid on the Norms and Standards due to poor action on a reserve’s part. Advocating for managing elephants without considering the bigger picture and the logic behind certain restrictions is unreasonable. Lack of engagement with neighbours, inaction to explore options for sponsored immunocontraception through available structures, and being slow on the draw when revising elephant management plans are symptoms of poor forward planning.
Final thoughts
There was a good reason why the Norms and Standards were created, with specific guidelines for Elephant Management Plans. This was partly to overcome irresponsible and unethical elephant management approaches and actions, which in turn reflected negatively on the entire country’s elephant management ethic. Malcolm Thomson’s view of elephant management could take us back there, which, far from the Norms and Standards’ progressive purpose, is entirely regressive.
Thomson’s perceptions do not necessarily reflect the views of all stakeholders involved in PGR. His statements belie current scientific knowledge and are contrary to global and local strategies to address the impending planetary crisis of biodiversity loss. The laws, regulations, and Norms and Standards around elephant management apply to everyone, including the South African government and its departments and land management agencies. The court application Thomson misquotes in his article, in which HSI-Africa is questioning the legality of the 2022 hunting quotas, is an example of an animal protection and conservation NGO holding the government accountable to its laws and regulations. That is a foundational aspect of a healthy democracy and civic activism that ensures good governance and accountability for the good of all people and the environment on which we are all entirely dependent. Thomson’s re-quote, “if it pays, it stays”, is as outdated as it is dangerous; the understanding of planetary boundaries has coined a far more sobering alternative phrase that incorporates the value and economic positioning of the earth’s oceans, atmosphere and biodiversity to humans: “if it doesn’t stay, humanity will pay”.
Snakes are not an animal group typically celebrated. Far too few people appreciate snakes as the marvels of natural engineering they are. Many are wary of them, while some are paralytically terrified at the thought. There is a rational aspect to this fear – certain snakes are dangerous, and a select few are potentially deadly. But like all fears directed at wildlife, it is only exacerbated by an unfortunate assembly of superstitions, misconceptions, and a fair amount of downright inaccurate information. What follows is a summary of some of the fascinating characteristics of these remarkable reptiles – to balance the scales, so to speak.
Ancient origins
Snakes are found on every continent on the globe apart from Antarctica, as well as many of the smaller islands. There are close to 4,000 recorded snake species in the world. From the worm-like threadsnakes to enormous pythons, they display an exceptional variety of colours, designs, and behaviours – though all share the same basic blueprint: a long muscular tube. Like (almost) all reptiles, they are ectothermic, meaning that they rely on external heat sources rather than metabolic heat to stay warm. They are also poikilotherms, so their internal body temperature (and, subsequently, activity levels) varies depending on the current ambient temperature.
The various orders of Reptilia, including crocodilians, testudines (tortoises, turtles, and terrapins), and the squamates (lizards and snakes), all have truly ancient origins. The earliest known fossils of snakes date back to the Middle Jurassic and Lower Cretaceous, roughly 170 million years ago and share many characteristics in common with their modern relatives. The consensus is that these early serpents evolved from lizards, and evidence of a once quadruped existence can be seen today in snakes such as pythons or boa constrictors, which often have vestigial rear limbs. It is, however, important not to equate primitive to crude or unsophisticated. With highly specialised fangs, complex venom proteins and a variety of other adaptions for each habitat and hunting style, snakes are highly specialised and efficient predators.
A green mamba; yellow Cape cobra; large Southern African rock python; and a spotted bush snake – all displaying a variety of snake colours and designs
The mind of a serpent
A corollary of the belief that snakes are primitive is the impression that they are mindless biting/killing machines without much cognitive function. The idea of a “reptilian complex” or “lizard brain” arose in scientific literature in the 1950s, when Paul MacLean proposed the concept of the triune brain. In essence, his theory runs that the brains of modern mammals consist of three distinct regions, with the reptilian brain at the centre and the more highly evolved neocortex on the outside. The reptilian brain is associated with the four basic functions of life (the 4 Fs): fight, flee, feed, and fornicate. The neocortex, not present in reptile brains, is associated with higher thought, language, abstraction and perception.
However, behavioural, physiological and histological evidence is mounting that this theory is a massive oversimplification of a structure as complex as the brain. Reptiles, including snakes, likely have a far greater cognitive ability, particularly learning, than once believed.
Why is this important? Because it goes a long way to controlling the fear response to snakes. When faced with a snake, it is essential to remember that you are not interacting with some brainless, pre-programmed envenomation machine. They bite to defend themselves, and humans can communicate that attack is not eminent through body language and avoiding sudden, threatening movements. The vast majority of snakebites are handling related, so when in doubt, leave the snake alone and leave the catching to the experts.
The world through their nose
Snakes are chemosensory maestros. In other words, their sense of smell is king. This is facilitated by the nose and tongue, with chemicals processed by the olfactory epithelium and the vomeronasal organ. Their famous forked tongues are highly specialised with papillae or pits, which catch and retain chemical particles and transport them to the vomeronasal organ (the Organ of Jacobson) close to the palate. This organ makes the process of smell rather than taste, as snakes do not have tastebuds. The flicking tongue collects the chemicals, and the bifid tip is believed to play a role in helping them determine the direction of the smell.
In contrast, the eyesight of many snakes is relatively poor, though naturally, this is generalisation and species-specific. The colour and detail vision of an arboreal, diurnal species like a vine snake is far more refined than that of a burrowing species. Spitting cobras also rely on good eyesight when projecting their venom with an accuracy of over 90%. Again, understanding how a snake sees the world has implications for avoiding a dangerous encounter – by avoiding sudden jerky movements when confronted by a snake you are less likely to draw their attention (or ire).
Many snakes are sensitive to UV light, while diurnal species that hunt during the day have lenses that filter UV to improve contrast. Vipers, pythons and boas can use infrared “vision” to locate prey. Pit organs around their nostrils detect heat given off by other animals and transmit these signals to the brain to create an image of the creature in front of them.
Snakes do not have any outer or middle ear apparatuses, but, contrary to popular belief, this does not mean that they cannot hear. They do have inner ear structures capable of picking up vibrations in the ground and air, as well as some sound waves in the lower frequency ranges.
While the eyesight of many snakes is poor, reliance on eyesight varies between snake species. Vipers such as this saw-scaled viper use infrared to locate prey; snakes such as this horned adder have relatively good eyesight; the boomslang has excellent eyesight; snakes use the flicking tongue and bifid tip to collect chemicals to interpret smell
The long muscular tube
Anyone who has ever watched a snake move, climb or coil will be able to attest to their tremendous flexibility, which in turn is made possible by numerous sets of ribs that extend almost the entire length of the body. They can have anywhere between 200–400 vertebrae. Pair organs like kidneys are arranged longitudinally, and snakes have an elongated right lung that is responsible for most, if not all, ventilation. Furthermore, they are astonishingly strong.
Without limbs, their locomotion patterns can be primarily divided into four different types of movements (not counting arboreal motions, which can be a mix of all four). Though the type of habitat and hunting habits of specific snakes will determine which mode they use, most snakes use all four types of movement depending on the circumstances. Lateral undulation, or serpentine motion, is the most common and familiar mode of locomotion – creating the characteristic S-shaped curves and pushing off each side in a typical slithering manoeuvre. Other types of movement include sidewinding, concertina and rectilinear motion. Traction is aided by long rectangular ventral (belly) scales.
Numerous sets of ribs allow snakes immense flexibility, demonstrated here by this sidewinder; stretching out leaves snakes vulnerable to predators, and assuming a coiled position like this puffadder offers more protection; strength, flexibility, traction and long rectangular ventral scales allow snakes to climb – offering this boomslang easy access to a weaver’s nest
Keeping a thick skin
The skin of a snake is perhaps one of its most infamous (and possibly reviled) characteristics. Despite common misconception, their skin is not slimy but is covered in a dry layer of overlapping keratin scales. Depending on the species, they may be smooth, granular, or keeled and come in various shapes. The scales are transparent (think of a shedded snakeskin), and the pigments are found in the underlying skin. Their colours range from beautiful bright colours to the subtle but equally attractive camouflage of the ground ambush predators. Colour aside, the arrangement or pattern of scales, particularly around the face, can be used to identify specific species.
Snakes are born with a set number of scales that does not increase over their lifetime, but the scales themselves will grow over time and may even change shape. The scales are shed multiple times throughout a snake’s lifetime in a process known as ecdysis. This allows the snake to replace old and damaged skin and remove parasites. Interestingly, experts dispute that moulting or shedding in snakes is part of their growth process.
A snake shedding its skin feels particularly vulnerable, especially in the early stages when the specially designed scale over the eye (known as the eye cap) turns milky and compromises its vision. This increased fear may make a shedding snake more likely to lash out if disturbed.
Heavily keeled scales are visible on a rough-scaled bush viper; horned adders also have keeled scales; a rock python’s scales are smooth; a snake sheds its scales multiple times throughout its lifetime
Pointed fangs and potent venom
Lashing out is carried out by the business end of the snake – the part that terrifies people. The teeth of snakes differ depending on their hunting styles and venom types. The venom is produced by the modified parotid gland (a salivary gland found at the back of the jaw) and, as a general rule, can be matched to the type of fangs the snake has. Though technically modified saliva, venom contains a complex mixture of proteins with toxic and potentially lethal properties, which then immobilise and begin digesting prey. In essence, neurotoxic venom attacks the nervous system to cause pain, paralysis and respiratory distress. Cytotoxic venom works on the molecular components of cells, destroying tissues and causing intense, instant pain and often resulting in necrosis and the potential loss of body parts. Haemotoxic venom destroys red blood cells and disrupts clotting mechanisms. It may be slower acting than the other types of venom but can result in massive damage to internal organs and seldom has an effective antivenom.
Members of the Viperidae (puff adders, Gaboon vipers) and Atractaspididae (stiletto snakes) families have massive, tubular, hinged fangs that swing forwards when the snake strikes to inject (usually) cytotoxic venom. Elapids, such as cobras and mambas, have much smaller fangs and inject mostly neurotoxic venom. The orifices in the fangs of spitting cobras are precisely positioned to allow them to project their venom forward and upwards. Finally, the Colubridae (boomslangs) and Homalopsidae (a group of Indo-Australian water snakes) have grooved, backwards oriented fangs set more towards the back part of the jaw. They typically (but not always) inject hemotoxic venom, but their fangs require that the prey be shifted towards the back of the mouth.
Several snakes do not have fangs at all. Constrictors such as pythons do not rely on venom to kill their prey. Instead, they strike and rapidly envelop potential prey in their coils. The powerful snake then generates a massive pressure that essentially cuts off the blood supply to the vital organs and causes death by cardiac arrest (rather than by asphyxiation) within minutes, if not seconds. Constrictors have a full set of teeth to grab and secure their victims and can still deliver an excruciating (and septic) bite. Still, they do not envenomate, and the teeth are therefore not technically classified as fangs.
Whatever the dental set-up, snakes cannot take bites out of or chew their food, meaning that anything caught has to be swallowed whole. This is accomplished by a loose articulation (joint) between the lower mandible and the skull. They can also move their upper maxilla courtesy of a quadrate bone, a characteristic shared with other reptiles, birds, and amphibians. The two halves of each jaw bone are also only loosely held together by a flexible ligament, allowing for a much greater degree of movement.
Black mambas have small fangs that inject neurotoxic venom; a Bibron’s stiletto snake has large, tubular, hinged fangs that swing forwards independently when the snake strikes; the orifices in a spitting cobra’s fangs are positioned to allow forward and upward projection of venom; rufous-beaked snakes often constrict their prey, even though they produce a neurotoxic venom
A pit of snakes
Like other members of the reptile class, most snakes lay eggs (oviparous) and are generally not thought of as contenders for Mother of the Year awards. The eggs are deposited in a suitable location, and the young inside are left to their own devices, emerging fully developed between one and two months later. However, some snake species take their maternal responsibilities more seriously and invest more energy in incubating and protecting their clutches. Python mothers will bask in the sun to warm themselves before returning to coil around the eggs to transfer heat to the eggs. She may even “shiver” to help keep the eggs warm – an extremely costly exercise that can result in the loss of over half her body weight and a two- to three-year delay between clutches.
A small number of snakes are either ovoviviparous (retaining their eggs internally until just before hatching) or even fully viviparous (giving birth to live young) with a functioning placenta. Rhinkals, certain sea snakes, most vipers and garter snakes are all examples of ovoviviparous snakes, while boa constrictors and anacondas are fully viviparous.
The young snakes use a small, sharp egg tooth on their snouts to cut their way out of the egg to emerge like perfect miniatures of the adults. In venomous species, this also means that they hatch with fully developed venom glands. As a result, a baby snake is still a potentially deadly one.
Anacondas are viviparous – they give birth to live young; the rinkhals is ovoviviparous (retaining eggs internally until just before hatching); boa constrictors are also viviparous; a corn snake hatches from its egg
Remarkable Reptiles
While every bit deserving of respect and the same degree of caution that should be afforded to any potentially dangerous wild animal, snakes are indeed marvels of nature and should be appreciated as such. Far from the aggressive creatures they have been made out to be, they are simply complex predators adapted to survive in the form that millions of years of evolution have created for them.
To lend your support to an organisation prioritising snake conservation, read more about Save the snakes on our app. (Get the app to view – instructions below)
A red-billed firefinch hot on the tail of a flying ant. Harare, Zimbabwe. Photographer of the Year 2022 Finalist
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Primate quest + Sabi safari with Jamie + sneaky hyenas
One of the most fulfilling aspects of being part of teamAG is witnessing the joy and thrill radiating from our travellers when they return from one of our safaris. The Weiss family recently travelled with us to Lake Kivu and Nyungwe Forest in Rwanda, Kahuzi-Biega National Park in DRC and Mafia Island off the coast of Tanzania, in search of weird and wonderful creatures, with a focus on primates. On their return, the family’s tally for the trip included ten primate species (including mountain and eastern lowland gorillas), Seychelles flying fox, Zanzibar galago, straw-coloured fruit bats and 150 bird species. You can read their account about their time in Central Africa, complete with mesmerising adventures, in our first story below.
Human-wildlife conflict is a major threat facing wildlife conservation and local communities across the continent. The loss of livestock, such as cattle, to wild predators is a primary source of conflict. Understanding how lions select cattle for prey could help in protecting livestock, mitigating human-wildlife conflict. Read about how researchers are doing just that in our second story below.
Happy celebrating Africa!
Taryn van Jaarsveld — Editor
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Did you know that when feeding around a large meal, low-ranking hyenas occasionally utter a low vibrating call? It’s the spotted hyena version of an alarm call and usually means danger. As the higher-ranked hyenas stop eating to look for the approaching lion, the sneaky fibbers snatch a few of the tastiest morsels for themselves.
I first witnessed this while guiding in the Sabi Sands and was hugely amused to watch as the high-ranked hyenas caught on but still couldn’t bring themselves to risk ignoring it.
Sightings like these are just one of the reasons I am so excited to be back in the Sands guiding a safari in a few months – and I would love to take you with me! Our travel team has been hard at work putting together what promises to be a thrilling adventure from the delicious comfort of Jaci’s Sabi House. Spaces are limited, and it is time-sensitive, so contact our travel team ASAP to book your spot!
There is still time to book your 2022 safari – and we know just where to send you! If the following mouth-watering options don’t suit you, drop us an email and challenge us to craft your ideal safari. All budgets catered for!
Maasai Mara champagne safari – 6 days. This was our client’s brief: “Design me a Maasai Mara safari to beat all Maasai Mara safaris. I want supreme luxury, a private safari vehicle and a hot-air balloon flight with champagne breakfast. Oh, and a view from my room to die for.”
Gorilla trekking in Rwanda – 3 days. Your gorilla trekking adventure will take you through pristine afro-montane forests packed with golden monkeys, colourful Rwenzori turacos and prehistoric three-horned chameleons. And the pièce de résistance – a mountain gorilla silverback and his family in the depths of paradise.
Magical Namibia
Marina Leuzinger and family travelled with AG to Namibia, and visited Sossusvlei, Pelican Point in Walvis Bay, Twyfelfontein, Etosha National Park and Waterberg Plateau Park. Writing from Namibia, Marina wrote:
“Today as we left Windhoek I was really hoping for our plane to be delayed and our flight to be cancelled… I haven’t had this feeling of not wanting to leave a country after a holiday for ages! So to keep it short: our trip was absolutely magical and there is still much more to be discovered in Namibia.
Thank you very much for all arrangements and bookings, for organising the car, our camps, hotels and tours. It was really TOP.”
Pic: The Leuzinger family soaking up a last sunset from Waterberg Plateau Park, Namibia
WATCH: The Ethiopian wolf is the most endangered carnivore in Africa and the rarest canid species in the world. As avid hunters of African mole-rats, they have developed various techniques to catch their prey. In this clip from David Attenborough’s Life series, watch as an Ethiopian wolf stalks its prey (01:32). Click here to watch
Rwanda is known as the Land of a Thousand Hills — accurately describing the mountainous verdant vistas of this tiny country in Central Africa. My husband Chanan Weiss and I were last in Rwanda a few weeks before the genocide broke out in 1994, oblivious to the political turmoil bubbling under the surface and the devastation soon to come. Amid the presence of UN vehicles, we set out on our jungle trek, searching for the mountain gorillas. Stumbling on these majestic creatures is one of life’s memories that remains poignant despite the passing of time.
Still spellbound, almost three decades later, we were finally in the position to set out to Central Africa again. This time, we aimed to expand our journey across countries, and to share the experience with our daughters, Laina and Abby. We provided our wishlist to the Africa Geographic team, who put together a plan for us. We hoped to seek out a variety of wildlife – with a particular focus on primates. Our resulting itinerary included Nyungwe National Park, Kahuzi-Biega National Park, Lake Kivu, Volcanoes National Park and Mafia Island.
Trekking through Kamiranzovu swamp in Nyungwe National Park, Rwanda
The primates of Rwanda’s Nyungwe Forest
Travelling to Nyungwe National Park, it felt so good to be on the road to experience the smells, sounds and unique feeling of being in Africa again! As we approached our destination, we watched the transition from the lush fields of tea plantations to the dense canopies of indigenous forest and were greeted by olive baboons and L’Hoest’s monkeys.
Nyungwe National Park is a young national park, only proclaimed in 2004. With over 100,000 hectares of protected mountain rainforest, it is considered one of Africa’s biodiversity hotspots. It is known for its diversity of birds, primates and plant species, and we knew this would be a memorable few days of exploring.
Our days were spent trekking on forest pathways, negotiating thick forest vegetation, learning about the history and conservation efforts of the park and being introduced to the birds and primates of the area. There was even a waterfall thrown in for our daughter Abby, who couldn’t resist the forest pool and its frigid waters.
We were privileged to have Claver Ntoyinkima, one of Rwanda’s foremost birding experts, for our three days in the area. Claver grew up on the outskirts of the forest, and his expertise and passion are a reminder of the human input intrinsic to conservation success. He taught us so much, from birds to beetles, politics to primates, and the scientific names of trees! Often, the people you meet in these natural spaces bring such richness to the experience.
Chanan was dizzy with excitement, armed with a massive lens, eager to capture the diverse and unique birds of the region. Of course, fleeting glimpses do not always lend themselves to perfect photos, but somehow his spirits are never dampened, and a rewarding moment makes all the other hours worthwhile.
Nyungwe National Park is surrounded by tea plantations; a white-tailed blue flycatcher in Nyungwe Forest; the Weiss family enjoying the canopy walkway above Nyungwe Forest; Laina and Abby enjoying the view in between treks; a black-crowned waxbill in the forest; a black-and-white-casqued hornbill; trekking through the forest
A five-kilometre trek can easily take four hours with our crew, as we tend to stop for every moving creature. Between Chanan’s birds and the girls’ fascination with creepy-crawlies, butterflies, and even fungi – let’s say no one was in a hurry!
Then there were the primates! We managed to observe seven different primate species over our time in the area, relying mainly on the expertise of trackers. A guide, machete in hand to clear the path, weaved us through the thick vegetation until the shaking of trees and the calls of the troops alerted us to their presence. We heard the chimpanzees before we saw them, perched atop the trees, stretching their limber bodies and fully engrossed in grooming. Quietly taking in the presence of this endangered animal – which shares almost 99% of our DNA – was thrilling. One needs a moment to take it in before quickly becoming engrossed in the detail of their fingers or the curious faces of the youngsters.
We also saw vervet monkeys on the main road while driving through Nyungwe Forest, and, thanks to Claver’s spotting abilities, a silver monkey deeper in the forest. Claver also helped us find grey-cheeked mangabeys – we hiked a few hundred metres through the thick forest after he heard them not too far off, and thankfully found them. To our surprise, we were not only rewarded with the mangabeys, but also a single Dent’s mona monkey.
While trampling noisily through the forest we almost walked into an African broadbill which was also quite exciting. We were also fortunate to see nine of the famous 41 Albertine Rift endemic bird species, including Rwenzori turaco, mountain masked apalis, Grauer’s swamp warbler, yellow-eyed black flycatcher, strange weaver and blue-headed, regal, Rwenzori double-collared and purple-breasted sunbirds.
They were, unfortunately, very hard to photograph in the limited time we had there!
A family of Ruwenzori colobus spotted in Nyungwe Forest; the Weiss family witness a Ruwenzori colobus in action; chimpanzees in the forest canopy; the family were greeted by olive baboons on the outskirts of the forest; L’Houests monkeys were also seen on arrival in the forest
An eastern lowland silverback in DRC
With some trepidation, we decided, a week before our trip, to brave the journey to Kahuzi-Biega National Park in the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC). With news of Congolese militia in conflict with Rwanda, there was some concern about the risk of us getting stuck or caught up in the conflict. Thankfully this was not the case, and our 24 hours in the DRC went by without a hitch. Contrary to expectation, we had a memorable wildlife experience and fantastic hospitality.
Kahuzi-Biega National Park is one of the DRC’s largest national parks and one of the last refuges for the critically endangered eastern lowland gorilla – also known as Grauer’s gorilla. Extending over 600,000 hectares, the park is a UNESCO world heritage site. It is considered a critical habitat for the protection of afro-montane forests and the wildlife that lives there.
The eastern lowland gorilla is the largest of the gorilla subspecies and is distinguished by its stocky body, massive head, and short muzzle. We were excited for this detour to see what was a new subspecies for Chanan and me.
We set out on a long and arduous trek through the thick forest, with trackers and guides taking us up steep, slippery mountainsides and through dense vegetation. Finally, we heard the characteristic sound of fists on chest. They had heard us before we heard them. We spent the next 30 minutes following a troop on the move – with glimpses of twin babies on a mother’s back and a mock charge by a female that briefly terrified Abby!
Then, amidst a cracking of branches and loud guttural grunts, we spotted a massive silverback up a tree. How that tree held him is still our guess – as he stretched out his huge legs and reached for leaves. After some time, the silverback trundled down the tree and plopped right in front of us to finish his meal. Experiencing this massive creature, unperturbed by our presence and allowing us to absorb this surreal moment, was exhilarating.
The photographers clicked away in delight until the star attraction decided it was enough, and he stood up and disappeared into the jungle.
In Kahuzi-Biega National Park, the Weiss family witnessed an eastern lowland silverback and spent time with the gorillas after being led through the forest thicket by guides and trackers.
Bats of Lake Kivu and gorillas of Volcanoes
Returning to Rwanda after our time in DRC, we headed to the shores of Lake Kivu to spend a relaxing few days soaking up uninterrupted views of vegetated islands. A freshwater lake nestled within Africa’s Great Rift Valley, Lake Kivu provided an opportunity to swim, kayak and explore the nearby islands.
Straw-coloured fruit bats fly over Lake Kivu
Napoleon Island, in particular, is known for its biodiversity — and is home to over 40,000 straw-coloured fruit bats. The eerie screeches of the bats were at first disconcerting, but their sweet little faces won us over, and the minutes turned into hours as we became enthralled with the spectacle.
From Lake Kivu, we set out on our journey to Volcanoes National Park. Rwanda’s roads are slow. Not because they are pot-holed, but because they are windy and steep. Vehicles share single lanes with cyclists – on bicycles laden with bags of potatoes and cabbage bound for trade with neighbouring villages – racing down mountain slopes.
Canoeing on Lake Kivu; spotting a white-eyed slaty flycatcher; the endearing sight of a double-toothed barbet; Napoleon Island is home to over 40,000 straw-coloured fruit bats; Chanan and Maria enjoying views of Lake Kivu; spotting an immature palm-nut vulture
We would soon see Volcanoes National Park approaching, the thick indigenous vegetation contrasting the heavily farmed hillsides. A vital conservation area, it protects critical habitat for the endangered mountain gorilla.
Our long-awaited trek into the forests of Volcanoes National Park began under an eerie fog hanging over the forest canopy. We trudged our way up Mount Karisimbi, following the trackers and guide to locate the family of Pablo the gorilla. There are 12 habituated gorilla families in Volcanoes National Park, some of which are habituated solely for research purposes. Here, tourism and science work hand-in-hand to benefit both people and conservation.
As we turned a corner, there amongst the jungle backdrop was a family of mountain gorillas, their black fur striking against the curtain of green. The giant silverback was splayed out in a sleepy stupor while others ate leaves, tore apart bamboo shoots and nestled with their babies. A 3-year-old baby gorilla, who was particularly curious, was so close to Abby she could have stroked him! We kept backing up and tripping over each other as he came closer to us to investigate.
The Weiss family experienced a family of mountain gorillas in misty Volcanoes National Park, including a silverback and inquisitive youngster
Despite their intimidating size and appearance, the gentle nature of the gorillas was palpable. A core focus of Dian Fossey’s early work was transforming the public perception of gorillas as aggressive beasts into that of a creature of great compassion and social intelligence.
We stayed in the town of Ruhengeri, situated at the foot of the Virunga Mountains. We loved staying here for its friendly people, safe streets, delicious food and top-notch coffee. Chanan and I were last here 28 years ago. So different to what we remember, it felt surreal to walk the same streets with our daughters. In addition to our gorilla trek, we visited the newly opened Karisoke Research Centre, canoeing the Mukungwa River and trekking the park’s golden monkeys.
Canoeing Mukungwa River; a red-billed firefinch; cyclists laden with bags of potatoes and cabbage travel between neighbouring villages to trade; a golden monkey in Volcanoes National Park; spotting an African dusky flycatcher
Deflating on Mafia Island
Our adventure’s finale took us to Tanzania’s Mafia Island – a small tropical paradise off the coast. We spent the last six days of our trip indulging in all things coastal: swimming in the warm sea, walking out to sandbanks, reading, kayaking on the calm water, snorkelling, strolling on the fine sandy beaches, playing cards, drinking from coconuts and eating fantastic food. We even had the opportunity to watch turtle hatchlings scuttle into the sea!
The azure waters of Mafia Island; a red-bellied bush squirrel; a Seychelles flying fox on Mafia Island; heading out to snorkel the calm waters; the Weiss family witnessed turtle hatchlings scuttle into the sea
Despite our seaside stupor, we added a few new mammals to our life list: Seychelles flying fox, Zanzibar galago and Zanj sun squirrel.
Our total tally for our trip included ten primates, seven additional mammals and 150 birds, thanks to Chanan’s birding skills.
Despite Rwanda’s turbulent past, the country’s approach to tourism is refreshing. We felt very safe and welcome wherever we went and thoroughly enjoyed the tourism infrastructure and efforts that have been made to protect the country’s important plant and animal biodiversity. Clean, efficient and friendly, one can understand why this is a top tourist destination in Africa. A long-anticipated adventure in Rwanda, DRC and Mafia Island was better than we could have imagined and an absolute privilege to experience.
Not sure how to distinguish between the different species and subspecies of gorilla? We’ll show you how.
For those wanting to learn more about the bird and mammal offerings in Rwanda, Christian Boix’s (Africa Geographic travel director and one of Africa’s top birding guides) book Wild Rwanda is the region’s most authoritative “where to find” birds and mammals guide.
Human-wildlife conflict is one of the gravest threats facing wildlife conservation and local communities in Africa. One primary source of this conflict is the loss of livestock , such as cattle, to wild predators. Understanding when and how these predators, such as lions, select their prey is vital in generating mitigation strategies.
Research from the University of Pretoria unravels some characteristics that make cattle more vulnerable to hunting lions. The scientists found that specific situations and cattle attributes such as mottled coat colours, small horns, youth, and social behaviour placed certain herd members at greater risk.
The study was conducted in Botswana’s eastern Panhandle region of the Okavango Delta. The fringe of the Delta is a known conflict hotspot where free-ranging livestock and wildlife coexist, and livestock losses are common. During the two-year study period, 197 cattle were killed in 143 different incidents. The vast majority (82.7%) were killed by lions, while African painted wolves (wild dogs), spotted hyenas, and leopards accounted for the remainder.
As might be expected, the scientists found that 87.1% of the incidents occurred between dusk and dawn, and all attacks on cattle in an enclosure took place exclusively at night. Though the lions killed only one cow on average, there were ten incidents where more than two cows were killed in one incident. These occurred in non-predator-proof enclosures, indicating that inadequate cattle pens may exacerbate livestock losses during single incidents. However, free-ranging cattle still accounted for the most losses during the study.
During the incidents involving enclosed cattle, the lions targeted young and inexperienced calves, prone to panic and stampeding when attacked without an escape route. Conversely, calves were avoided in incidents involving free-ranging cattle. Interestingly, lions seem to avoid heifers and adult cows in both contexts (enclosed and free-ranging), suggesting that the inherent sociality of the females reduced their risk. Instead, free-ranging bulls and oxen – more likely to be solitary than the cows – were the preferred prey.
Livestock losses are common along the Delta fringe, where free-ranging livestock and wildlife coexist
Given their size and morphological similarity to buffalo, lion predation on cattle is inevitable. However, the authors point out that the process of domestication has removed many of the wild attributes – size, horns, aggression – that would have helped cattle discourage predation attempts. Thus, it was easy to understand why more polled (hornless) or small-horned cattle were killed while long-horned cattle were avoided. However, the discovery that lions preferred mottled cows over those with a solid colour coat was somewhat harder to explain. Lions have better night vision than humans, but this has come at a cost in terms of colour and detail vision, so they tend to respond more readily to movement. The scientists theorise that “the mixed pelage pattern helps identify movement” and draw the lions’ attention more frequently than solid-coloured cows.
Though it is an entirely understandable response, the research also suggests that chasing the lions off a cattle carcass may increase attacks. The data shows that early disturbance at a kill reduced carcass consumption by 40%, the equivalent of 30kg per carcass per lion. As lions need at least an average of 6kg of food per day to maintain condition (though they do not need to feed every day and usually consume more than this in one sitting), disrupting their feeding could force them to kill more frequently in “hit and run” attacks.
So, what are the implications of this research? The authors acknowledge that selective breeding for more “wild” characteristics like longer horns and aggression is an unlikely solution, as this would only make the cattle more challenging and even dangerous to handle. Regardless, the preferences displayed by the lions were subtle. The obvious upshot is that the antipredator activities fall to the humans that care for the cattle. The most productive action would be to confine the cattle at night, but this needs to be done in suitable, predator-proof enclosures to avoid the possibility of lions developing a preference for “easy, confined prey”. This is particularly necessary during the dry season when the cattle are more likely to travel greater distances for food and water.
SO my editorial of last weekstirred a few pots and affirmed what the experienced travellers amongst you were thinking. Thanks to all who emailed me or reached out via social media. I received some encouraging nods from safari industry dagga boys – much appreciated.
AT LAST, my beloved South Africa is phasing out the abusive captive lion breeding industry. There is currently a gazetted draft White Paper on the conservation and sustainable use of South Africa’s biodiversity in play, which will provide the overarching policy context to rid us of this evil industry. This process is being driven by the Department of Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment – and our Minister Barbara Creecy is a critical roleplayer in that regard. I can only imagine the pressure she is under from those who believe that any practice is ok if it produces money. Strength to you, Madam Minister!
I am currently on safari in Botswana – my beloved Khwai, to be precise – with our 2022 Photographer of the Year winners. Expect a celebratory gallery from us in a few weeks!
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Is there anything more magical than spending an evening dining under the stars in the African wilderness while being serenaded by the sounds of nocturnal creatures? Or taking a breather from an adventurous morning of Big 5 spotting to indulge in a scrumptious brunch under a giant baobab? This week we’re celebrating the wonders of dining out on safari with 15 of our favourite gastronomic bushveld experiences – check out our first story.
We’re also examining a distressing forecast for the yellow-billed hornbills of the Kalahari. Scientists have predicted that, due to rising temperatures, these hornbills will vanish from the area within the next five years. Read more on the impact climate change is having on this population of birds in our second story below.
Did you know that there have been 13 fatal bear attacks in North America in the last two years? In all instances where the bear responsible could be identified (and occasionally even when it couldn’t), it was euthanised.
There has been another leopard incident in the Kruger region in South Africa. Sabi Sand Nature Reserve confirmed that a male leopard in “poor condition” seriously injured an employee. She was on the veranda of her residence at the time and had to be airlifted to the hospital. The leopard in question (believed to be the Nyeleti male) was put down. Given how unusual such attacks are (in southern Africa at least), it is pretty uncanny that this latest incident came on the heels of our article on leopard habituation in the Sabi Sands.
I raised the bear fact because I’ve been trying to put what seems like a spate of leopard-human conflicts into perspective for myself. It also shows that no matter where in the world it happens, when a predator behaves like a predator, it has tragic consequences for both people and the animal.
We all send our best wishes to the employee and hope for a full recovery.
Best time to see wildlife in southern Africa? INSIDER TIP from our CEO: The later in the dry season you come on safari, the better the wildlife experience. No rain for many months means predictable watering points for thirsty animals and thin vegetation – both good for wildlife sightings. If you can stomach higher temperatures and you are after pure wildlife celebration, push it as late in the dry season as you can. September to November (before the rains arrive) is usually spectacular for wildlife encounters. This is when most safari-goers have gone home and when serious photographers are out there scoring those epic images we all love to see.
With that in mind, here are a few excellent hand-made packages for the coming months:
Affordable safari in South Luangwa – 5 days. This fantastic combo of walking and driving will appeal to experienced safari-goers and first-timers alike. Expect exceptional game viewing and tracking on foot, scrumptious bush breakfasts and unforgettable sundowners. Did we mention leopards?
Three rivers safari – 7 days. This classic safari takes you to three iconic African riverine settings and two countries: Victoria Falls on the mighty Zambezi River in Zimbabwe plus Botswana’s Chobe National Park on the shores of the broad, sluggish Chobe River, and Khwai on the eastern fringes of the Okavango Delta
WATCH: Take a breather with BBC Earth and spend time unwinding at a waterhole in Mwiba Wildlife Reserve, Tanzania, as wildlife gathers to drink (27:40). Click here to watch
Delicious meals do not a holiday make, but they are certainly a vital component of the overall experience. In Africa, the safari bushveld dining experience has evolved from basic fare to competitive haute cuisine. There’s only one problem: when your days on safari are limited, do you really want to head back to camp for a meal? Fortunately, the solution is simple, and many lodges offer their guests the opportunity to dine out against the backdrop of some of the most spectacular landscapes in Africa. Serenaded by the sounds of the wild (with the occasional surprise visit from one of the performers) and with every whim taken care of, nothing could be more immersive than indulging one’s epicureanism in this setting.
A day on safari is one of the exceptions to the old maxim about breakfast being the most important part of the day. In the bushveld, breakfast is a quick snack to be bolted down with a few gulps of coffee before rushing out to enjoy the best part of the day. A few hours later, after an early start and a couple of thrilling sightings on a game drive, everyone has worked up quite the appetite. Nothing tastes quite as good as brunch in the wild.
Perched on the top of the Oloololo Escarpment and looking down over the Mara River, Angama Mara’s vantage point emphasises just how vast this critical East African ecosystem truly is. For safari-goers, that means long full days exploring the plains, and no one wants to interrupt that to race back to the lodge for food. Fortunately, the lodge’s culinary artists will have been hard at work preparing the perfect Mara picnic so that their guests do not have to miss a moment of the Great Migration action (and can watch it with a full belly)!
Pizza for breakfast? Maybe this sounds more like a student’s lazy provisions than a gourmet meal for a safari guest, but it is well worth trusting the ingenious gourmands at Morukuru in Madikwe. After a morning of frenetic sightings (Madikwe is, of course, known for its wild dogs!), Morukuru’s mobile pizza oven arrives on the scene, making fresh woodfired breakfast pizza for the windswept, elated and ravenous guests.
Zambia is the “home of the walking safari”, and the thrill of marching through through this wilderness all morning is guaranteed to ensure that the simple, wholesome brunch spread set out by the team at Track & Trail River Camp is devoured with alacrity. A quick stop to recharge the batteries in the heart of the South Luangwa wilderness before it’s time to set off again is just the ticket!
End a morning of wandering the golden green savannah with a cooked brunch, to be enjoyed while soaking up views of the surrounding wildlife moving off to the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro. Guests of Lion’s Bluff Lodge can experience a wholesome meal with delectable fresh produce and rich coffee prepped under the shade of trees, after spending hours exploring the Lumo Community Wildlife Sanctuary. There can be no better setting than this unique ecosystem which encompasses one of Africa’s most ancient elephant migratory corridors.
Brunch – complete with pizza – is the perfect respite after a morning of sightings in Madikwe; overlook rolling savannahs during the morning meal in Tsavo West for the ultimate in bushveld dining; enjoy an epic picnic with a magnificent view over the Maasai Mara at Angama Mara; recharge your batteries in a wild setting in between walks at Track & Trail River Camp
Kwessi Dunes, NamibRand Nature Reserve, Namibia
This is an exception to the brunch over breakfast approach because temperatures in the desert will have skyrocketed by midday, and the lodge pool will be calling. Instead, the Kwessi Dunes team sets out a sunrise breakfast, so guests can ogle the colour-changing dunes as the sun crests the horizon and light slowly pours over the desert sands.
Elsa’s Kopje, Meru National Park, Kenya
Considered one of the most spectacular locations in Africa, Meru National Park is a true wilderness. And Elsa’s Kopje is one of the park’s most iconic destinations. Bush brunches at Elsa’s Kopje are a chance to enjoy a full and satisfying meal, al fresco, in the middle of the plains, surrounded by wildlife. From the vantage point of one of the many rocky outcrops, travellers can look out across the diverse scenery without another person in sight. Take a moment to sit back, enjoy the spectacular views, the smells, the colours, and the gentle breeze.
Have brunch on the plains courtesy of Elsa’s Kopje for the best options in bushveld dining; enjoy an early breakfast in the dunes of NamibRand Nature Reserve
Machaba Camp is a luxurious destination on the banks of the Khwai River, built in the classic 1950’s style. Guests can intimately experience the wildness of Khwai by enjoying a luxurious picnic laid out under the trees, with wildlife not too far off. Nourishing, delicious ingredients are the order of the day, and it will be hard to not fall into a satisfying nap after enjoying the excitement of the morning game drives and indulging in a delicious brunch.
Samara Karoo Reserve, Great Karoo, Eastern Cape, South Africa
The incredible geological transformations of Samara’s semi-desert landscape beg to be the setting for a delicious meal. The team at Samara offers some amazing dining experiences, from a picnic lunch in a riverbed with cool water flowing past your toes, to mountain-top brunches and lunches overlooking the wide expanse of the Great Karoo below. Samara’s gourmet picnic food has a certain je-ne-sais-quoi that just epitomises holiday mode.
Take in epic mealtime views at Samara – a must-visit for bushveld dining; enjoy comfortable shady brunches at Machaba Camp
Starlit suppers
If brunch in the wilderness is a chance to catch one’s breath in the middle of the day, dining under the African stars is a more breath-taking experience. Especially when the lions start to roar…
Aided by the golden glow of paraffin lamps in the middle of a vast dry riverbed, the Tanda Tula staff are well versed in setting up an elegant bush dinner experience. Guests are treated to delicious food and fine wine in the heart of the Big 5 paradise that is the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve.
There is something utterly primitive about Samburu – a feeling only emphasised by an al fresco dining experience. The flames of blazing torches chase away the darkness, their flickering light harking to a time long before electricity tamed the nights of Africa, as you dine out in one of Africa’s wildest places. The area around Saruni Samburu is teeming with wildlife – so be sure to take time to listen for the nocturnal sounds as you dine.
Lekkerwater Beach Lodge, De Hoop Nature Reserve, Overberg, South Africa
If you enjoy your open-air dining with a side of whale watching, Lekkerwater Beach Lodge is just the spot. The lodge is perched between land and sea atop the ancient dunes of De Hoop Nature Reserve in South Africa’s Western Cape. The reserve is known for offering some of the world’s best land-based whale watching. Due to its location near the beach, Lekkerwater is able to offer guests al-fresco dinners on the beach, for an immersive seaside experience.
Take your bushveld dining with a side of whale watching at Lekkerwater Beach Lodge; Experience an evening supper by lamplight in a riverbed with Tanda Tula; as well as the best in bushveld dining at Saruni Samburu
Africa on Foot Wilderness Trails has made our list because of the uniqueness of the walking safari experience. Experiencing the truly wild side of the African bushveld does not mean compromising on quality – or good food. After hanging up your boots for the day, you’ll have the opportunity to dine fireside at a different location every night. So despite roughing it on the trail, nights are made very comfortable by the mobile-camp team, who prep scrumptious meals under the stars.
Kichaka Frontier Camp, Ruaha National Park, Tanzania
Visitors to this remote camp in Ruaha National Park can be forgiven for losing themselves in the intimacy of this authentic safari destination. The small camp only takes six guests at a time, who are incredibly well looked after throughout their stays in one of the most isolated areas on the continent. And with such crystal-clear nights over Ruaha, hosts maximise the potential of the night skies by hosting dinners under the breathtaking vistas of the heavens. The Kichaka team uses only the freshest local produce, and pay special attention to the tastes and preferences of guests, ensuring a fulfilling and satisfying al-fresco dining experience.
Life in wild and untamed Mana Pools revolves around the mighty Zambezi River, the region’s lifeblood during the dry season. So where better to sate one’s appetite with the Vundu Camp team than on its banks, accompanied by the gentle song of resident hippos as the blanket of the African night falls?
Tswalu Kalahari Reserve, South Africa
Tswalu’s food is among some of the best on the safari scene, which applies equally to meals outside the lodge. As the sun burnishes the red Kalahari sands, a dune picnic is a perfect place to indulge your inner gastronome.
Kichaka Frontier Camp dinners offer crystal-clear views of the Ruaha night sky; take a comforting meal after a day of walking with Africa on Foot; enjoy the finest cuisine – renowned for its bushveld dining options – at Tswalu Kalahari Reserve; dine out on the banks of the Zambezi at Vundu Camp
With their small body sizes, high metabolisms, and primarily diurnal activities, birds are vulnerable to changes in temperature and water availability. Hornbills in the Kalahari are at risk of local extinction
Scientists have predicted that the Kalahari’s hornbills will start to vanish in five years – and climate change is to blame. It is a frightening thought that an animal as seemingly ubiquitous as the yellow-billed hornbill could be threatened with local extinction. Yet the authors of a new study published in Frontiers warn that if temperatures continue on the same trajectory, yellow-billed hornbills at their study site in the Kalahari Desert will no longer be able to breed successfully by 2027 – resulting in local extinction.
Researchers in the Kuruman River Reserve in the Northern Cape of South Africa released their alarming results after a decade-long monitoring period, from 2008 to 2019. This included the drought during the 2015/2016 breeding season. The scientists compared the first three years of breeding data to the final three years of the study period. They found that nest success (defined by the successful fledging of at least one chick) declined from 58% to 17%, occupied artificial nest boxes declined from 52% to 12%, and the average number of chicks for each breeding attempt plummeted from 1.1 to 0.4. Most concerningly, of the 118 observed breeding attempts, not a single attempt was successful when the average air temperature was equal to or over 35.7˚C. According to current predictions, this average temperature will be exceeded for the entire duration of the yellow-billed hornbills’ breeding season by 2027, resulting in a predicted 0% breeding success rate.
Mass die-off events affecting bird species due to short periods of extreme temperatures are becoming increasingly common. However, this research shows that even sub-lethal increases in temperatures have a significant impact on the ecology of a region. Furthermore, hornbills would be expected to struggle during periods of drought due to a shortage of their insect and reptile prey. During the breeding season, the female yellow-billed hornbill seals herself off in a cavity of a tree or earth bank (or in artificial nest boxes) and is entirely reliant upon the male to feed her as she incubates the eggs and cares for the chicks. Thus, a shortage of resources caused by drought would hamper this process. Yet even in years of good rain, high temperatures still had deleterious effects on hornbill breeding habits.
High temperatures have detrimental effects on hornbill breeding habits. For more pics from Danielle Carstens, check out@dcwildlifephotography
The authors acknowledge that the higher temperatures inside artificial nest boxes compared to those of natural nest cavities may have impacted the results. However, the temperatures at the study site are, on average, lower than those experienced by yellow-billed hornbills at the hottest margins of their range. In addition, the effects of the higher temperatures are felt not just by the nesting female and chicks but by the males foraging for food during the day. Hornbills cannot shift their breeding season in the desert because it has to correspond with the arrival of the rains (and an abundance of prey) at the hottest time of the year. Climate change is changing temperatures (and other parameters) too quickly for birds to be able to adapt.
This research adds to a growing body of evidence of the effects global heating will have on Africa’s fauna and flora. With their relatively small body sizes, high metabolisms, and primarily diurnal activities, birds are especially vulnerable to changes in temperature and water availability. Those that survive in arid habitats like the Kalahari more so, as the window for successful breeding is limited to the duration of a short rainy season during the hottest months. According to the 2022 update to the State of the World’s Birds report, climate change now ranks as the second-greatest threat to birds across the globe after habitat destruction. Ornithologists are constantly finding new changes in bird behaviours and habits: climate change is affecting migratory patterns, seasonal rhythms, habitat and breeding ground use and even body size. The yellow-billed hornbills of this particular study represent challenges being faced by birds around the world.
And the threats posed are looming sooner than most people realise. As lead author Nicholas Pattinson explains in a press release from the University of Cape Town, “[m]uch of the public perception of the effects of climate change is related to scenarios calculated for 2050 and beyond. This renders the concept of the effects of climate change abstract to much of the general public not directly affected by extreme weather events, given that the effects are considered to concern future generations.”
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Hwange healing + kaleidoscopic chameleons + Mara madness
Listen up; I have something to say. My recent visit to the magnificent Maasai Mara was both epic and distressing.
Observing hordes of wildebeest and zebras crossing the Mara River again and again during the Great Wildebeest Migration, as the herds criss-cross the northern Serengeti and southern Maasai Mara, is one of Africa’s best safari experiences. It really is. One gets caught up in the drama of the moment, the chaos, the celebration of life. And death, as massive crocs and tactical lions gorge on the reckless and the unlucky.
BUT. How to manage that other great migration – that of large numbers of Homo sapiens converging on this tiny piece of Africa to witness this natural phenomenon?
At one of the crossings I witnessed last week, about 60 vehicles waited patiently for hours on both sides of the river – about 100m away – while the gnus and zebras slowly converged on their chosen crossing point. Then, when the first hooves hit the water, it was a crazy, chaotic rush as hundreds of tons of steel gunned with screaming engines to get to the best observation points. It was surreal, exhilarating and sickening as we all converged on what is only a few hundred meters of riverbank, jostled for position and somehow avoided collisions. The temptation to judge others was real. Did the fact that our guide behaved better make me less part of the problem? Did the fact that we left the grid-locked traffic jam to find calmer experiences give me the moral high ground? No, I was and am part of the problem.
Some things have changed from the old days. Now, guides have to allow the herds to commence the crossing before they approach the river bank – and officials in tiny green Jimny’s enforce slightly better behaviour. But it’s still chaotic and very stressful for the herds. It’s still not sustainable.
We, the travel industry, need to embrace this problem and find a more responsible way of showcasing this extraordinary spectacle before pressure groups and officious government agencies shut the door on the Greatest Show on Earth. Drops the mic
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Can nature nurture? Nature – or surrounding environment – can change a person’s outlook, or even ignite evolutionary processes.
In our first story this week, we feature a superb account by Aaron Gekoski (former Photographer of the Year winner) which attests to the healing power of nature. Exploring Hwange and Matobo National Parks in Zim, Aaron found catharsis through safari.
Scientists exploring how chameleons evolve their kaleidoscopic capacity have made a fascinating observation. By studying how a group of invasive African chameleons in Hawaii adapt to local environmental factors, the scientists have captured a snapshot of the evolutionary process in action. Read more in our second story below.
Happy celebrating Africa to you all!
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Did you know that hooved animals are born with a deciduous hoof capsule? The soft coating avoids damage to the mother’s uterus or birth canal and is called eponychium (or “foal slippers” in horses).
I ask because Care for Wild Rhino Sanctuary has released an awesome video of the birth of a rhino calf (see below). It is especially magical because the mother – Olive – was orphaned by poachers in 2013 and raised by Care for Wild Rhino Sanctuary. Every rhino calf counts, and I challenge you to watch the little creature take his first steps without your throat closing up. And if you look closely, you can see his slippers.
A remarkable achievement by the devoted staff at Care for Wild and a spark of hope for us rhino lovers. Read more about Care for Wild and their rhino birth below.
Did we mention that we offer eight carefully crafted ways to enjoy the awesomeness of the Mara / Serengeti wonderland? We cater for all budgets and all times of the year – from the busy prime season when the herds are crossing the Mara River to the secret season, which locals know is the best time to be there. Over and above that, you could plan your own safari using our app or ask us to stitch together your ideal safari.
Louwhen Bowker, Care for Wild project rep, writes on the AG forum:
“Following our announcement of a new birth at Care for Wild Rhino Sanctuary in South Africa, we are extremely humbled and privileged to be able to share this incredible footage with the world. White rhino cow Olive gave birth to a male calf on 11 August 2022. The birth was captured on video by Olive’s guard. Despite keeping his distance, Olive remained close to her long-term protector throughout the early stages of labour and kept him close during delivery. This is an unbelievably special moment to see this precious new life take his first breaths.”
WATCH: Watch as the Nomads, a group of four young male lions, prowl the western bank of the Luangwa River in Zambia, in search of new territory. In their pursuit, they enter the territory of the powerful MK Pride. Can a hunting party of MK lionesses keep them at bay? (08:00). Click here to watch
From chameleons the size of house cats to those smaller than the head of a match, custom colours are central to the Chamaeleonidae family survival strategy. How did they come to evolve this kaleidoscopic capacity? Escapees from the 1970s pet trade may hold some of the answers…
Chameleons can modify their skin colour thanks to specialised skin cells and a combination of different pigments. As relatively slow movers, they rely on camouflage and muted browns and greens to stay hidden from potential predators (and to sneak up on prey).
They do not however have the magical ability to match the colour of their backgrounds, and their talent for expressing bright colours has more to do with impressing potential mates and intimidating rivals. Thus, chameleon ancestors walked a delicate tightrope between flamboyant breeding displays and avoiding the unwanted attentions of those looking to hunt them.
In 1972, 36 Jackson’s chameleons (Trioceros jacksonii xantholophus) – native to Kenya and Tanzania – were brought onto the Hawaiian island of Oahu, destined for a life as pets. They arrived somewhat bedraggled and sunlight-deprived and were placed outside for some invigorating fresh air, at which point they promptly escaped. Fifty years later, Jackson’s chameleons have established themselves as an invasive species in Hawaii. A lack of snakes and avian predators made the islands a chameleon paradise, which is where evolutionary research comes in.
Chameleon colour signals change in response to different social stimuli
When two male Jackson’s chameleons size each other up in the wild, they display a lurid yellow-green colour. But when presented with a predator, they adopt a far more subtle and camouflaged approach.
Researchers wanted to test if 50 years’ worth of a carefree, largely predator-less existence would mean that the Hawaiian Jackson’s chameleons had more elaborate or brighter displays. To do this, the scientists exposed both Kenyan and Hawaiian chameleons to rival male and female chameleons, as well as fake models of predators. The colour changes were measured using an optic spectrometer.
The Hawaiian chameleons proved far more uninhibited than their Kenyan relatives, flaunting significantly brighter displays of colour across a greater spectrum when presented with rivals and females. They also stood out against the native Hawaiian vegetation even when faced with predators, particularly snakes.
Male chameleons experience intense sexual selection. During the breeding season, they change from dull green to a highly conspicuous bright yellow display signal. They also readily fight by locking horns and sometimes pierce their rival’s skin with their horns. In (A) a dominant male is shown in display colouration. (B) A subordinate male that lost a contest and turned from bright yellow to brown. (C) Two males fighting, both are in display colouration and relatively evenly matched. (D) A courting male in full display colour, while the female has turned to a contrasting colour, rejecting the male. See the Supplementary Materials for additional photos, including in response to a snake.
It would be a stretch to conclude that the lucky Hawaiian immigrants have evolved in only 50 years. Instead, this is more likely an example of biological plasticity (adaption to local environmental factors) – a snapshot of the ultimate evolutionary process in action. In this case, a lack of danger brought sexual competitiveness to the forefront of a biological arms race.
We all have our own ways of dealing with stress. Some speak to professionals or pop pills. Others release endorphins via exercise or yoga, and meditate themselves into a state of zen-ness. Hippocrates prescribed a dose of greenery. “Nature,” he said, “is the greatest physician”. Whilst it’s unlikely that Hippocrates ever went on an African safari in Hwange, his words still ring true today. But many are discovering this great secret: the art of healing through safari. A safari is a cathartic experience, with lions or elephants playing the part of therapists, prowling their way deep into our psyche, stomping out negative thoughts (at least temporarily, anyway).
The pandemic blindsided us and brought challenges we didn’t see coming and never thought possible. We were isolated from each other, from travel, and for many, from the natural world. As we start life in a post-COVID era, can we find solace amongst the animals? I headed to Zimbabwe to find out.
A dose of the good stuff
For the past 13 years I’ve worked as an environmental photojournalist and filmmaker, covering stories of human-animal conflict. In the process I have witnessed the best – and the worst – of humanity. I had lived in Africa before – in Mozambique, South Africa and Zanzibar – and as the pressures of a few years of gruelling work began to weigh on me, I longed for the continent.
I missed the smells of a savannah after a heavy rainstorm and those dense, brilliant night skies. I daydreamed of wild, open spaces packed with wildlife, and sitting around a campfire chugging whiskey, listening to stories of lives spent in the bush.
As travel opened up in the post-pandemic world, I decided it was time to test out Hippocrates’ theory, and in March my girlfriend Marie and I set off for Zimbabwe from our home in the Philippines. At first, we were unsure of visiting during green season (the rainy months between December and April). But a good buddy, Mark Butcher (aka ‘Butch’), who runs a few lodges in Zimbabwe – one of which (Bomani Tented Lodge) I added to my itinerary – reassured me that green season meant relaxed animals due to an abundance of water and food, and fewer tourists.
Rhinos, Rhodes and rings
After four flights we arrived at Bulawayo Airport a little bleary-eyed, to be greeted by Phil and Sharon Stead, owners of Amalinda Safari Collection. From here it was a 45-minute drive to Amalinda Lodge in Matobo National Park: the first stop on our three-week tour.
The Matobo National Park is found in the Matobo Hills, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is the oldest national park in Zimbabwe. And it might be one of the most romantic destinations on Earth. Every part of Amalinda Lodge pays homage to Matobo’s giant granite domes. We ate amongst them, slept next to them, swam on top of them, and went on game drives with them as the backdrop.
The Matobo Hills also house one of Africa’s rhino conservation success stories and provide impressive tracking encounters. On our first morning, we came within 5m of a pair of white rhinos, as our guide Howard – aka the “rhino oracle” – explained how rhinos here are flourishing due to intensive anti-poaching efforts.
Matopos offers some of the best rhino sightings in all of Zimbabwe
Back at the lodge that evening, we made our way up to a vantage point with Sharon, Phil and a couple of bottles of Champagne. As the sun set over Matobo’s two-billion-year-old hills, I knelt down on one knee, pretended to pull a drone out of my bag, and whipped out an engagement ring for Marie instead. She said “yes”. It had been quite the first day in Zimbabwe.
The next couple of days passed by, a heady mix of celebrating, spending time with rhinos, and enjoying our honeymoon suite. We even found time to visit the grave of Cecil John Rhodes, set on top of a mountain with sensational views. Ending on a high, we packed our bags and headed on the next leg: to Bomani Tented Lodge, in Hwange National Park.
Bomani, Bigboy and the Baggage Handlers
Upon arrival, it turned out that Butch was true to his word: we did indeed have the entire place to ourselves. Bomani is situated on a 2000-hectare private reserve: visitors have virtually no neighbours aside from the animals that regularly visit the waterhole in front of the lodge. Bomani has a real family atmosphere and we were made to feel at home by the lodge manager, the charismatic Bigboy, and our guide, Ndaba.
Whilst enjoying a cup of coffee over the campfire with Butch at 5am, mist dispersing around the lodge, a golden blur caught Butch’s eye. It turned out to be the lion Lesang (pictured in the main image of this story), son of renowned lion Cecil, a magnificent specimen who was on the lookout for a mate.
Bomani Tented Lodge is positioned on a private concession; A baboon resting near Bomani Lodge, as a giraffe bask in the afternoon light
Lesang is one of many lions that roam locally, along with a grizzled coalition known as ‘The Baggage Handlers’ (so named because they once raided the luggage of a charter aircraft on the runway to get to some vacuum-packed fillet steaks). On a couple of occasions, we were fortunate to see them with kills.
During the many coffees shared with Butch and the Imvelo team, I learnt of some of the ways they are contributing to the surrounding community, including building schools, creating employment, providing water and assisting with healthcare. They have recently been involved in an ambitious project to bring white rhinos back to Hwange. What makes the initiative so exciting is that rhinos are being reintroduced onto community land, where community members become custodians and benefit from tourism through increased employment.
The Cobras undergo training at their camp near Bomani Lodge; two members of the Cobras check their weapons prior to a drill; the Cobras prepare for their night patrol, keeping Hwange safe from poachers
Shortly after our trip, Butch and the team were busy preparing the rhinos for their trip to Hwange. Once in Hwange, they will enter into the care of the ‘Cobras’ – an anti-poaching group selected from the community and trained by Imvelo. Having seen the Cobras in action, it looks like the rhinos will be in safe hands.
In preparation for rhinos returning to Hwange, The Cobras work on a drill where donkeys replace rhinos.
A short drive from Bomani leads to Ngamo Plain – a wide-open savannah filled with the who’s who of safari. On a single morning, Butch showed us lion, cheetah, elephant, zebra, buffalo, wildebeest, waterbuck and a lot more.
Using a slow shutter speed and panning adds motion blur to animals on the move; There are few animals as photogenic as the waterbuck; As the sun sets over the Ngamo Plains, two cheetahs remain on the lookout for prey; A foal and her mother take a break to play on Hwange’s Ngamo Plains; A cheetah cub licks her lips after enjoying a meal
The final leg
Waving goodbye to the team from Imvelo, we headed north to Khulu Bush Camp in the north-eastern section of Hwange, to meet up again with Sharon and Phil. The lodge is a mirror of Sharon: elegant, stylish and beautifully put together.
Khulu is famous for its deck and plunge pool, where one can view elephants gathering at a large waterhole to drink. Sitting there with a gin and tonic in hand, we received news that a lioness and her cubs were feasting on a kudu close to the lodge.
Another highlight of our stay was hiding under a platform at neighbouring Ivory Lodge, where the elephants would congregate. Crouching with my camera, mere inches away from their trunks, made me sweat in places I didn’t know I could sweat. Shooting from this close with a wide-angle lens provides an intimate insight into elephant herds that telephotos can’t.
Taking advantage of Khulu’s famous gin bar, waiting for the elephants to arrive and drink; Lion cubs devouring a kudu, close to Khulu Lodge, Hwange; Photographing elephants under the floodlights provides even and soft lighting; Hiding underneath a platform at Ivory Lodge allows a different perspective on this herd of elephants
The Amalinda Collection also has its own conservation body, the Mother Africa Trust, which aims to empower local communities around Hwange and Matobo. Sharon took us to some of the lion bomas funded by the trust, which protect cattle from predators. Mother Africa has also been involved in building schools and has a dedicated anti-poaching unit.
While we were at the homestead, we met a man who had been injured by a bull elephant a few years ago and now struggles to walk. For many here, supporting family brings daily battles. One misplaced step and treasured cattle could be killed or worse – human life can be lost. The daily stresses I had come to Hwange to escape paled in comparison to the true grit I witnessed here.
A trip to Africa – experiencing its raw realities and overwhelming biodiversity – brings a true sense of perspective. We left Zimbabwe humbled, thrilled, exhausted, and with renewed energy and appreciation for our natural world. For those wanting to deal with demons, there’s nowhere quite like it.
One of the ‘Baggage Handlers’ eyes up a herd of zebra on the Ngamo Plains
Want to go on Hwange safari? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.
Resources
Zimbabwe’s oldest and largest national park, Hwange is a safari paradise that hosts large populations of elephants, lions and wild dogs. Read more here.
The annual wildlife count in Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park is a wonderful citizen-science project for all. Tony Park tells his story.
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Moving elephants + rhino run + Serengeti migration safari
The skimpy bikini barely covered her bits, and the danger of a wardrobe malfunction was real. No robe or kikoi in sight – just a few tiny pieces of string. This was no private beach – it was a roadside cafe on the busy main road in the bustling rural town of Gede, eastern Kenya. Men were gawking (as we do) but, more importantly, several people were obviously uncomfortable (bordering on angry) at the ample display of flesh amongst the modestly dressed locals. She was a tourist from Europe and the only Mzungu in the establishment. My guide – we were parked across the road – told me that scenes like this are common in August, when western world holidaymakers descend on the tropical coastline of Kenya. What is it about some people on holiday that they abandon all sense of decency and respect for local culture? Shakes his head, walks away.
Meanwhile, the knobthorn trees in my bushveld hometown bordering the Greater Kruger are smothered in canopies of white flowers, and their sweet aroma wafts through my window as I type this note to you. Many trees are still bare, but here and there tiny green buds are popping up as the temperatures rise and daylight hours lengthen. It’s a good time to be in the bushveld!
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
This week I’d like to send a shoutout to conservationists. This month, 263 elephants were translocated in a cross-country odyssey that is the stuff of legend. I can only imagine the sleepless nights, tiresome labour and toilsome hours put in by the wildlife warriors involved in the move. The elephants are starting to settle into their new home in Kasungu National Park after they were darted, loaded into trucks, and transported 350km north from Liwonde National Park in a colossal month-long operation driven by African Parks. Read more about this milestone in Malawi’s conservation journey in our first story.
Kruger’s wildlife warriors are also continuing the good fight, battling the scourge of rhino poaching in the region. Those on the frontlines defending these precious specimens could use all the help they can get. But how can you help? Simon recently accompanied the runners and walkers undertaking the epic Timbavati Traverse, an ultramarathon through Timbavati Private Nature Reserve held to raise funds for the increasing costs of fighting the rhino war. Read more about how you can support the cause below.
Happy celebrating Africa to you all!
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
As any sitcom trope will tell you, the sight of a spider inspires terror and squealing in the majority of the human population. A few individuals are scooped up in the nearest glass and deposited safely outside, but I suspect most bedroom-dwelling arachnids end up as eight-legged smudges on laminate floors. So here’s a little fact that might make you think twice next time:
Did you know that scientists have discovered evidence of a REM sleep-like state in jumping spiders? The random twitching of their legs even suggests that they might dream – like a dog or a cat chasing something in their sleep. Cute, right?
Desert & delta safari – 11 days traversing the Okavango Delta, Chobe and Nxai Pan national parks (Botswana) and Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe). Mid-range and luxury packages are available.
Serengeti great migration safari. This iconic safari will get you front-row seat action as the Great Wildebeest Migration makes its way through the vast Serengeti ecosystem, where most of the great migration occurs. Our chosen dates and camps are to maximise sightings based on where the herds are at the time.
WATCH: Malawian elephants on the move: View incredible footage from the recent translocation of 263 elephants from Liwonde to Kasungu (02:14). Click here to watch
A pod of hippos keeping a close eye on the runners
His words bounced around my head that night around the fire as Timbavati warden Edwin Pearce briefed us on the next day’s adventure. ‘Not on our watch.’ He was referring to the scourge of rhino poaching and the fear amongst us all that rhinos would be poached to extinction in the wild. Unfortunately, the Kruger region has buckled under a massive rhino poaching onslaught, and rhinos need all the help they can get – from us all. One of the fund-raising activities to finance the ever-increasing costs of fighting the rhino war is the Timbavati Traverse – a unique walking and running marathon held in the reserve.
I was thrilled to be invited to cycle the event as an assistant guide – to help keep the runners safe from dangerous wildlife. Timbavati Private Nature Reserve is, of course, home to the Big 5…
Runners and walkers enjoying the thrill of the Timbavati Traverse for a good cause
As a veteran of many mountain bike events, I have to take my hat off to Timbavati for how well managed this event is. The race village buzzed with vibey entertainment, the food tables along the route groaned with delicious treats and the armed rangers who accompanied each running and walking group were very professional. This is one slick, superbly managed event.
This crash of four rhinos kept us waiting while they watched us from a short distance away
And the animals certainly played along. My group had close (but safe) encounters with herds of elephants and buffaloes and with two crashes of rhinos – how serendipitous! One group of four white rhinos was so close to the track that we waited about 20 minutes before they headed off. The chilly morning mist was lifting, the robin-chats were announcing the new day with their sweet melodies, and hornbills were catching the first rays of the sun high up in the knobthorn trees. And four rhinos were parked about 30 meters away. It was a surreal moment for us all. Later that morning, we saw another three rhinos heading for cover after we disturbed their mud bath next to the track. So, rather than the usual race, this is a journey – something to be enjoyed at a gentle amble.
The refreshment tables en route were stocked with excellent food for this endurance event
You and I need to step up to help our protected area managers raise the cash required to fight this war. Every little bit helps. Of course, the tourism industry plays a huge role, and many fantastic NGOs move mountains daily. But the diminishing importance that governments worldwide place on wild matters makes efforts such as this vital. It’s up to the private sector to play the role our political leaders are paid to do but fail dismally at. It is what it is.
The author (red shoes) and his running companions and guides
If you enjoy walking or running, why not train up and book your place in this epic event or sponsor someone less able to afford the price ticket. Or train and raise sponsorship from friends or one of the many online crowd-funding platforms. The two distance options are a 45km run and 21km walk.
Elephants sedated and loaded in Liwonde National Park
31st of July 2022 saw the conclusion of a colossal one-month operation to translocate 263 elephants from Liwonde National Park to Kasungu National Park, Malawi. This impressive undertaking marks another milestone in Malawi’s journey towards establishing the country as a conservation role model in Africa.
Kasunga National Park is Malawi’s second-largest national park. Once home to a population of around 1,200 elephants during the 1970s, rampant poaching desecrated elephant numbers, and just 49 individuals remained in 2015. Since 2015, IFAW has been working with the DNPW to address law enforcement, wildlife crime, infrastructure and capacity within the park. With the park’s future secured, IFAW and the DNPW formed a partnership to boost populations and fast-track restoration efforts. With the generous support of non-profit Elephant Cooperation and various other philanthropic funders, 263 Liwonde elephants were darted, loaded into trucks, and transported 350km north to their new home.
African Parks’ involvement in Malawi dates back to 2003 when the organisation first partnered with DNPW to assume managerial responsibility for Majete Wildlife Reserve. Following Majete’s spectacular revival, Liwonde National Park and Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve joined the African Parks portfolio in 2015, followed shortly by Mangochi Forest Reserve in 2018.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
In keeping with a proud African Parks tradition, these parks have flourished, with burgeoning tourist numbers, improved local community relations and increased security. Their success has become a springboard for Malawian conservation and benefited protected spaces across the country. With poaching all but eliminated, Liwonde National Park in southern Malawi has essentially reached its carrying capacity for elephants. Thus, a unique scenario exists where the national park can act as a “source population” to augment elephant populations in protected areas across the country.
The immense operation was a success as 263 elephants were moved from Liwonde National Park to Kasungu National Park
In addition to the elephants, the move also saw 431 additional wildlife, including impala, buffalo, warthog, sable, and waterbuck translocated to supplement Kasunga’s remaining wildlife. Brighton Kumchedwa, Malawi’s Director of National Parks and Wildlife, said of the initiative that “[t]he addition of elephants and other wildlife species to Kasungu National Park will benefit Malawi tourism and communities through job creation, thereby fuelling a conservation-driven economy”.
This is not the first time that Liwonde’s elephants have moved across the country as part of Malawian conservation efforts. In 2016, the largest elephant translocation ever undertaken saw 500 elephants moved from Liwonde and Majete to repopulate Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve in central Malawi. The translocations have also helped alleviate pressure on Liwonde’s recovering habitats and reduced human-wildlife conflict on the densely populated fringes of the park.
The success of this project is a testament to the DNPW’s strategy of working with partners to secure its natural resources and maintain healthy ecosystems in the country’s parks. Returning animals to protected spaces is essential in supporting the nascent tourism industry and establishing the country as a world-class safari destination.
Please take your seats, dinner is about to be served. Tswalu Kalahari Reserve, South Africa
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Wild Akagera + painted wolf pups + responsible safaris
1,8 metric tons – that’s the amount of carbon dioxide I added to the climate change problem during my recent safari to Kenya. I want desperately not to have my travel choices contribute to destroying our precious ecosystems and biodiversity. And so I tried to work out how many indigenous trees to plant to offset my personal CO2 emissions for this safari. Because I love planting indigenous trees.
My online research generated a myriad of requests to donate to NGOs undertaking to plant trees on my behalf. That sounds like a neat way to quickly offload my guilt without much personal effort. But it turns out that the science behind this solution is not as simple as that because many factors come into play. One suggestion that stuck out during my research is that preserving existing (and restoring degraded) habitats is a more effective strategy than planting young trees.
Coincidently, during my trip to Kenya, I spent time with a wonderful NGO securing tracts of indigenous forest by purchasing land from local communities and creating sustainable forest-related livelihoods for those communities. Of course, this project is not unique – there are numerous worldwide. But this project relates specifically to my safari. And so, I plan to mitigate my footprint by donating to this cause. More about this fantastic project when teamAG publishes my writings in the coming months.
Feel free to treat my carbon footprint mitigation attempts with scorn or to share your own strategies in the comments section below (app only) or in the forum section of our app.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
The quintessential Rwandan safari consists of trekking to find gorillas and other primates, and exploring rainforests and volcanoes. But did you know that Rwanda has a Big Five park, which is a refuge for savannah-adapted wildlife? Akagera National Park’s status as a premier safari destination has risen over the past decade, in large part thanks to African Parks’ involvement. Read our first story below to find out all there is to know about travelling to this corner of the continent.
This week, we are also delving into research that shows there is order in wild dog hunts. Scientists have long been intrigued by the social structures and hierarchies of wild dog packs. But new findings confirmed a fascinating approach in pack dynamics: when the pack makes a kill, pups eat first. Read more about what all this means in our second story below.
In the past few weeks, we’ve been analysing the issues surrounding leopard habituation. Our in-depth analysis, undertaken by Jamie Paterson and Maxine Gaines, delves into the unintended consequences this has for leopards.
This story is now available on our public website for easy access – see below.
Happy celebrating Africa!
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Now and again, a little tidbit of new research comes along that completely unsettles my understanding of how certain things work.
If you (like me and many other guides I know) were under the impression that woodpeckers’ skulls act as shock absorbers, prepare to have your world rocked. Did you know that woodpeckers’ heads function as stiff hammers rather than safety helmets? This, despite the fact that the shock of the repeated impacts exceeds the concussion threshold for humans.
This week we feature 2 epic short safaris for the time-pressured traveller and those wanting to top up their longer safaris with the ultimate finale
Botswana’s salt pans – 4 days
This could be your zen moment – those vast desolate pans and giant ancient baobabs bring out the philosopher in us all. Or take advantage of the many activities on offer (how about that salt pan sleep-out?) to end your safari with a bang. Prices to suit all budgets
Gorilla trekking in Rwanda – 3 days
This primal experience is on most ultimate traveller bucket lists. Why not add 3 days of gorilla trekking to your Maasai Mara or Serengeti safari to create the ultimate dream vacation?
DID YOU KNOW that you will find more than 340 camps & lodges on our app? And we feature ready-made packages that even the most experienced traveller will drool over. Login, select ‘Travel with us’ from the menu above and search based on place and other important choices (such as lodges in non-malaria areas or packages that include the Big 5). You can add your selection of lodges and packages to your wishlist – which will remain saved until you choose to edit or delete.
New safaris in the works
This cheetah and her cubs posed beautifully for our CEO Simon last week in Tsavo East National Park, Kenya. Simon has just returned from his safari, which was spent researching exciting destinations to add to our list of recommended lodges, and finding new adventures for our travel experts to add to your next itinerary. Watch this space for exciting things to come!
WATCH: How African wild dogs keep the ecosystem in check: In Gorongosa, Mozambique, where the species was wiped out completely, an ambitious scheme reintroduced them – with positive consequences for the whole ecosystem (07:31). Click here to watch
Research shows that wild dog pups are granted exclusive access as soon as they arrive to feed on a carcass
One of the most endearing characteristics of the African wild dog (painted wolf) is the bond between pack members, particularly when they have pups in their midst. While typically only the dominant female will breed each year, every individual cooperates in raising the next generation, bringing food back to the den for both the mother and the youngsters. Recent research quantifies how this altruistic approach plays out when the pups leave the den, and the pack makes a kill: essentially, the pups get to eat first.
Researchers from the University of New South Wales, the Taronga Western Plains Zoo and Wild Entrust Africa (formerly known as the Botswana Predator Conservation Trust) analysed nearly three decades of observational data from the Okavango Delta and surrounding areas. Individual painted wolves were identified by the unique coat patterns, and the research focused on established breeding packs rather than newly established packs without pups. While previous studies have qualitatively and anecdotally described the exclusive access given to painted wolf pups at a kill, the authors of the current study were able to quantify (assign values that can be statistically analysed to) these feeding patterns.
African wild dogs are cursorial predators (they run through the vegetation and flush their prey), and pack members are often separated while hunting. The adults that catch the prey will start feeding (allowing them access to the most nutritious organs first) until the rest of the pack members catch up. If the pack has pups, they are granted exclusive access to the carcass as soon as they arrive. The adult dogs will sit back and wait “patiently” for their opportunity to feed. This is in stark contrast to most other social predators, where access to food is generally determined by rank and strength. For example, lion cubs that arrive at a carcass will have to fight for their place at the dinner table and often have to wait until the pride adults have sated their initial hunger.
Once the painted wolf puppies have eaten their fill, the dominant members of the pack will feed, followed by the next youngest in line. This confirms that painted wolves do follow an age-based feeding system. Consequently, older and less dominant members of the pack may find little meat remaining by the time they get the opportunity to feed. Despite this, the researchers observed little overt aggression around kills (again, in contrast to lion feeding behaviour), even from the dominant pair.
For any predator, hunting carries an inherent risk of injury. For the wild dog, high-speed chases ending in a struggle with prey can result in broken bones, torn ligaments, and myriad other potential injuries. So, if older pack members are unlikely to get priority access, what incentivises their participation given the potential risks involved? The authors postulate that older dogs are motivated to actively participate in kills to feed before the younger pack members arrive. However, there are occasions when the pack is separated during the hunt. If remaining pack members are unaware that prey has been caught, the painted wolves responsible for the kill will feed for a while then circle back to recruit the rest of the pack. This speedy arrival of the rest of the pack likely ensures more eyes and ears on alert for kleptoparasites and larger predators like lions, which are a significant cause of natural wild dog mortalities.
Researchers observed little overt aggression between wild dogs around kills
Of course, this system also ensures that the pups are provisioned while they cannot hunt for themselves. The dominant breeding female is also guaranteed access to valuable carcass parts once the pups have fed. In packs where intra-pack relatedness is high, the subdominant pack members gain by helping to raise litters of close kin.
Like wild dogs, human beings also developed a food sharing system at some point in our evolutionary history. Though it is difficult to fully contextualise, the authors suggest that “a detailed understanding of food sharing in African wild dogs may contribute to our understanding of the origins and implications of sharing more broadly.”
Africa Geographic would like to extend thanks to first author, Dr Neil Jordan, for allowing the use of his personal graphics of the study findings. Dr Jordan is affiliated with the Centre for Ecosystem Science, School of Biological, Earth and Environmental Sciences (BEES) of the University of New South Wales (UNSW), Sydney; the Taronga Institute of Science and Learning of the Taronga Western Plains Zoo; and Wild Entrust Africa.
Every protected space in Africa comes with its own story, with elements from every genre: drama, thriller, romance and tragedy. The fates and fortunes of these parks are irrevocably bound to those of the people around them, and no two chronicles are ever the same. Each visitor to an African wilderness experiences a snapshot in time, a chapter or two at most. But for those fortunate enough to visit Rwanda’s Akagera National Park, these may just be the best chapters in the entire saga. In the past decade, Akagera has established itself as a park on the rise – demonstrating an almost unbelievable transformation into Rwanda’s only Big 5 park and one of the premier African safari destinations on the continent.
Akagera National Park
The 1,122km2 (112,200 hectares) Akagera National Park is situated on the eastern edge of Rwanda, where the boundary with Tanzania is marked by the sinuous bends of the Akagera River (for which the park is named). Akagera safeguards Central Africa’s largest protected wetland, consisting of a complex system of lakes linked by papyrus-lined swamps. Away from the marshes, the jagged lines of animal pathways weave across vast plains and sweeping highlands like a network of veins, a testament to Akagera’s status as Rwanda’s last refuge for savannah-adapted wildlife.
Find out about Akagera for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.
As clouds gather above the rolling sandstone hills and elephants feed peacefully in woodland valleys below, the breathtaking vistas are almost primaeval. The landscape, teeming with life at every level, seems so eternal that it is hard to imagine that its very existence was so recently threatened. Yet less than three decades ago, during the Rwandan Civil War and the years of recovery that followed, the park was invaded and denuded, its wildlife decimated by poaching and human-wildlife conflict.
Sizeable herds of buffalo, topi and zebra are everywhere in Akagera, taking advantage of bountiful grasses
Akagera’s rehabilitation can be attributed to the partnership between African Parks and the Rwanda Development Board. They entered into a joint management agreement in 2009 and began the day-to-day running of the park in 2010. Their progressive stewardship stayed the destruction and turned the narrative from looming catastrophe to one of long-term, sustainable conservation. Thanks to considerable investment in the park’s infrastructure and security, existing wildlife populations began to recover, bolstered by ambitious reintroduction programmes. Tourist numbers, both local and international, grew in leaps and bounds, and by 2019, Akagera was 90% self-financing.
Most importantly, community involvement has always been a fundamental tenant of African Park’s approach to managing all the parks under their guardianship, and Akagera is no different. Today, 300,000 people on the park boundary directly benefit from its existence, while educational programmes and support for community enterprises have reshaped local perceptions. Nearly half of the visitors to the park in 2019 were Rwandan citizens.
Maasai giraffe were among some of the first large mammals to be reintroduced after poaching in the latter half of the 20th century wiped out existing populations
The return of the animals
Under certain circumstances, nature’s remarkable innate resilience allows wildlife numbers to recover independently, and the only human intervention needed is to provide them with a safe space to do so. This is always the preferred approach, but more dramatic measures are necessary when population numbers are too low to recover, if genetic sustainability is compromised, or a species is locally extinct. In Akagera, the restoration to its natural state has necessitated several large-scale wildlife reintroductions that have effectively reversed several local extinctions.
Savannah elephants and Maasai giraffe were among some of the first large mammal species to be reintroduced after poaching in the latter half of the 20th century wiped out existing populations. A small herd of young elephants arrived in the park in 1975, with giraffes following some ten years later. Today the park’s growing elephant population is estimated to be around 100 individuals, while some 80 giraffes are wandering its confines.
White rhinos have also been reintroduced into the park
Akagera is also reclaiming its title as one of Africa’s rhino havens. In the 1970s, the park was estimated to be home to over 50 eastern black rhinos, but widescale poaching hit them particularly hard. The last sighting of a black rhino occurred in 2007 before they were considered locally extinct. Ten years later, the park was deemed to be sufficiently secure for their return, and 18 eastern black rhinos made the cross-continent journey from South Africa to their new home in Rwanda. They were joined two years later by a further five rhinos sourced from European zoos – the first such operation of its kind. Despite their somewhat different (definitely colder) start in life, the zoo rhinos seem to be adapting well to life in their ancestral homeland. At the end of 2021, the first white rhinos arrived from Phinda Private Game Reserve in South Africa in what was the single largest rhino translocation ever conducted.
The park’s lions suffered a similar fate during the 1990s – all 300 lions in the park were killed before the 21st century. A founder population of seven lions was sourced from South Africa in 2015, followed by two males in 2017 to increase genetic diversity. To suggest that the lions have taken to their new home would be something of an understatement – the population has quadrupled in seven years. Spotted hyenas and leopards are also found in healthy numbers in the park.
Lions once again can call the Akagera home
Akagera’s flourishing ecosystem
Though the reintroductions of specific iconic species were prodigious enterprises in their own right, the natural recovery of Akagera’s landscapes and existing wildlife populations has been equally impressive. At the start of 2010, wildlife numbers were estimated to be fewer than 5,000 and are now believed to be well over 13,000 and ever-increasing.
Savannah elephants now also call the park home
Sizeable herds of buffalo, topi and zebra are everywhere, taking advantage of the bountiful grasses, while defassa waterbuck are perfectly at home wading through the swamps and reeds past pods of hippo. The endangered roan antelope may be somewhat elusive, but the towering statuesque eland are unmistakable, dwarfing surrounding impala and duiker. Klipspringer show off tip-toe agility on the rocky crags of hilly slopes. The primates are represented by large olive baboon and vervet monkey troops, the consummate survivors. Sightings of blue monkey are less frequent, but they have been spotted over recent years, firmly disproving the belief that they are extinct in the park.
Sizeable herds of zebra are found in Akagera
Akagera National Park is also one of the best birding regions in Africa, if not the world, with over a whopping 480 species recorded in the park. The diversity of habitats on display means that fervid birders can apply their skills in several different ways, from peering through reeds and rushes for a papyrus gonalek to scanning the skies for the grasshopper buzzard, or listening out for the call of a red-faced barbet in a thicket. Other notable species include Tabora and Carruthers’ cicticolas, white-crested turaco and northern brown-throated weaver. Shoebills have been seen lurking in the swamps, and, most recently, a sighting of the somewhat unfairly named plain nightjar had the birding chatrooms all aflutter.
Birding in Akagera is prolific – keep an eye out for grey crowned cranes
Explore & stay
With the plans for Akagera’s continued upward trajectory firmly rooted in tourism, every effort has been made to make the park the perfect destination for visitors from every walk of life. Each of the activities on offer was carefully selected to show off the park’s many strengths and provide the ideal way to explore every inch of the many varied habitats on display. Naturally, game drives (including night drives) form the backbone of the park experience, but guided walks, specialised birding tours and boat cruises on forest-fringed Lake Ihema offer an entirely different perspective. Very unusually, travellers can even opt for the “behind the scenes” tour of the park headquarters, where they can talk to park officials and learn more about the strenuous business of keeping a national park operational. Cultural community experiences also provide the opportunity to learn more about Rwanda’s remarkable people while contributing to local enterprises.
Explore the park on foot or by boat
Though Akagera is accessible year-round, the best time to visit is during the dry season, from June until September, when the wildlife viewing is at its best and rain is less likely to be disruptive. For the budget traveller, there are four public campsites: Shakani on the shores of Lake Shakani (where fishing is permitted), Mutamba at the highest point in the park, Muyumbu overlooking Lake Ihema and Lake Shakani, and Mihindi, near the shores of Lake Mihindi. Karenge Bush Camp is a good mid-range option, offering furnished tented accommodation. There is also a few high-end accommodation options inside the park, including Ruzizi Tented Lodge, which is fully catered.
You can see more on Karenge camp here:
When it comes to safari stereotypes, Rwanda is invariably associated with gorilla trekking, but in truth, this tiny country offers the full African adventure. Akagera National Park is the ideal complement to a gorilla trekking mission into Volcanoes National Park or a canopy tour of Nyungwe National Park. For those wanting to learn more about the bird and mammal offerings in Rwanda, Christian Boix’s (Africa Geographic director and one of Africa’s top birding guides) book Wild Rwanda is the region’s most authoritative “where to find” birds and mammals guide.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
Everybody loves a comeback story, but it is even more uplifting when the main character is a vital piece of African wilderness. Akagera National Park is already unrecognisably improved from the ravaged land of twenty years ago – proof that responsible tourism and sustainable conservation bring long-term security to both people and wildlife.
In May 2022, the news broke of the tragic death of leopard Hosana, one of the well-known leopards of the Sabi Sand Game Reserve in South Africa. The announcement inspired a social media furore (to the point that #Hosana trended on Twitter). It also reopened several complex conservation/tourism concerns for public dissection, analysis and, on occasion, misinterpretation. For the authors of this article, with deep personal connections to Hosana and Sabi Sand Game Reserve , his death inspired a desire to tackle some of these issues head-on.
Hosana’s end at the hands of a counter-poaching unit (CPU) may have lit the fire, but much of what follows comes from years of observing, questioning and researching conventional beliefs in old habits and established practices. The concerns raised extend beyond Hosana and deal with complex topics like guide, tracker and field-staff training, habituation, tourism ethics, and human-wildlife conflict. Given the intricacy of the issues at play, we have attempted to address each topic thoroughly to avoid misinterpretation and false conclusions.
When named and known leopards are killed in conflict with humans, the automatic assumption appears to be that habituation must be at fault – often with conflicting ideas of what that means. We set out to investigate the validity of this assumption as systematically and scientifically as possible to avoid questionable leaps of logic, speculation and hysteria. We approached scientific organisations, experienced guides, trackers and reserve managers and sifted through multiple research papers to examine the question from every angle.
We found that, unsurprisingly, human-wildlife conflict continues to be one of the leading causes of anthropogenic leopard mortalities (Viollaz 2016). However, there is no evidence that habituated leopards are disproportionately affected. Nor is there any indication that habituated leopards are more likely to be dangerous to people or livestock in South Africa. However, we did confirm that there is a dearth of appropriate training for wildlife encounters offered to most field operatives and counter-poaching units across the country. This is a danger to the humans working within wild spaces and the wildlife they are trying to protect.
The following article makes continuous reference to the Sabi Sand Game Reserve (hereafter the Sabi Sands) in South Africa. This is not an indictment of the reserve. The area has one of the highest densities of leopards on the continent and is the “home of leopard habituation” as we know it. It is an invaluable reference point for this discussion. Our conclusions are specific to South Africa, where national parks and reserves are fenced. While many of the issues raised could be applied to national parks, private reserves and private concessions in other parts of Africa, our research was region-specific.
Sabi Sands has one of the highest densities of leopards in Africa
Leopard habituation
Hosana’s death inspired considerable discussion on social media around habituation, rehashing a well-worn topic that is often debated with little appreciation of what precisely it entails. So what does habituation mean?
It is crucial to be pedantic here because, otherwise, far too much bad behaviour falls under the label of “habituation”. At its simplest definition in this context, we are referring to the habituation of leopards as the removal of the strongest feelings of fear and the desire to escape from safari vehicles (and their associated sounds, smells and so on). Repeated exposure teaches the animal not to be afraid.
Habituation should not be confused with either taming or attracting animals. We would argue that the regular feeding of wildlife by visitors (as often occurs in public campsites in national parks, resulting in aggressive “problem” animals) is taming or attraction, not habituation. When a wild animal begins associating humans or vehicles with a basic need (such as food) and loses all fear, that animal has been partially tamed. Similarly, driving too close to animals or interfering with their behaviour is not bad habituation; it is bad guiding.
When “done right”, habituation results in an animal that simply ignores the humans in vehicles around it and continues to behave naturally, allowing it to be viewed with minimal impact. From the animal’s perspective, it does not expend valuable time and energy getting away from people. The importance of this cannot be overstated because most wild animals are carefully balanced on a knife-edge of survival, and running and hiding to avoid vehicles only adds to this strain and distraction.
Leopard habituation was essentially pioneered during the late 1970s at Londolozi Private Game Reserve in what is now the Sabi Sands (Hess, 1991). Through the exceptional tracking skills and abundant patience of a few individuals , a kind of trust was established. It gave rise to generations of leopards comfortable with vehicles and established the reserve as one of Africa’s top leopard-viewing destinations ( Hess, 1991; Hancock, 2000; Kure, 2003 ).
Young cubs learn by observing their habituated mothers’ reactions, so tourist-filled vehicles quickly become nothing to fear. Thus, over time, the habituation process in a reserve with a long history of leopard viewing gets easier and less intrusive. However, these are wild animals, so nuances and variations are inevitable. Leopards have distinct personalities, and specific individuals (even those from the same litter) may either prove impossible to habituate or be extremely confiding. Habituation can also be specific: a leopard that will lie in the shade of a green safari vehicle may be extremely unsettled by a white car following behind it.
Bad impressions or experiences are remembered, which is why habituation requires that each guide work respectfully with each animal to reinforce the message that humans in vehicles are not a threat. Detailed observation of their behaviour is essential: “listening” to the animal, watching their body language, switching off the vehicle while they are alert or hunting, keeping a comfortable following distance and so on. The aim is to be an impartial observer, and habituation makes that easier. However, months of careful habituation work can be undone very quickly by a few insensitive guides (which we address at a later stage).
When “done right”, habituation results in a leopard that simply ignores the humans in vehicles and continues to behave naturally, allowing it to be viewed with minimal impact
The benefits of leopard habituation
Of the many threats to the planet’s wild fauna and flora, habitat loss has perhaps the most profound and far-reaching effects on species and ecosystems (Purvis et al ., 2000). In the face of inexorable human advancement, space for wild animals is ever-shrinking, and Africa is no exception. Ecotourism and photographic safaris have made an almost incalculable contribution towards mitigating this reality – providing a viable economic model to keep land in a (mostly) wild state and protecting wildlife in the process (Buckley, 2003; Buckley 2010, Balmford et al ., 2015; Mossaz et al ., 2015). There is no doubt that the presence of habituated leopards (and other predators) brings tourists to certain reserves to view them (Lindsey et al., 2005). How many visitors to the Sabi Sands travelled thousands of miles to see Hosana? There is an obvious relationship between tourism, the money generated from tourism and the ability to pay for conservation, buy and protect more land, maintain fences, provide jobs for desperately poor people and so on (Buckley 2003, Buckley, 2010).
The links between habituation and scientific knowledge are perhaps not as well known (except for the work done with the great apes). Yet the conservation of many secretive (and potentially dangerous) species hinges on this knowledge. Cryptic carnivores like leopards are challenging to study ( Balme et al . 2009 ), and scientific work on these species primarily relies on camera trapping and collaring animals. Collaring poses many risks to the animals in question ( Hayward et al. 2012 ), while camera trapping is far less intrusive ( du Preez et al. 2014 ). Regardless, collaring and camera trapping are limited in terms of what they reveal about the behaviour of the studied species. Habituation of leopards has opened our eyes to much that was hidden before (Balme et al., 2013): grandmothers adopting and successfully raising their grandchildren ( Balme et al. 2012 ), males tolerating adult cubs (Pirie et al. 2014) as well as sharing kills and mates with their independent male offspring. The philopatry of female leopards was revealed to guides by habituated leopards (Hess, 1991) years before being confirmed by telemetry studies (Balme et al. 2017; Fattebert et al., 2015; Fattebert et al., 2016). Through habituation we have been granted extraordinarily detailed insights into the secret lives of these beautiful cryptic cats. This knowledge is critical for conservation. Many assume that to conserve a species, we just need an understanding of population numbers and habitat and prey requirements. But behavioural science is crucial too.
A controversial example of how habituation can influence conservation decisions relates to recent leopard hunting regulations implemented in South Africa. These allow for male leopards of seven years or older to be legally hunted, provided you have the correct permits ( DEA 2018 ). The justification is that at seven years old, they are mature males who have likely sired cubs and passed on their genes to the next generation ( Balme et al. 2012 ) and are therefore expendable.
Every guide we have ever spoken to disagrees with the logic behind this. A seven-year-old male is only starting to establish himself as a dominant male with a territory. We know this because of years of habituating and following habituated males. Hosana was over six years old at the time of his death, and as far as we are aware, he has potentially only fathered three cubs that survive him. Two of these (the Nkuwa female’s cub and the Serengeti female’s cub) are still relatively young and very vulnerable to infanticide when a new male moves into his vacant territory. The other potential cub is a young male born of the Nkangala female. He is not entirely independent yet, and has a long road to travel before we can say for sure that he will survive and breed. Without the knowledge that comes from careful and long-term observations of habituated leopards, we would have to accept the suggestion of seven years being a reasonable age to hunt a male leopard. Habituation provides conservationists with crucial information to advise the government on the ethical management of leopards – management critical to the survival of the species.
Leopard habituation on foot
There is a fundamental distinction between habituating animals to people in vehicles and habituating them to people on foot. Truly wild animals are almost always human-averse. The only exceptions are wild animals on islands where human presence has been non-existent or infrequent over evolutionary time. Most unhabituated animals have an innate fear or wariness of people and will flee or hide (or, in rare circumstances, attack) when confronted by a person. Some of this response comes from recent persecution, but much of this wariness must have its roots in evolution. Humans are alpha predators and have been for thousands of years. Animals know to expect humans around manmade infrastructure (such as lodges) but respond differently to the sight of a person walking through the bushveld.
The upshot is that a wild animal comfortable around safari vehicles filled with tourists is not automatically relaxed with people on foot. However, in reserves in many parts of Africa, tracking is the only reliable way to locate leopards for the safari vehicles, so a slightly different desensitisation process is followed. Expert trackers follow tracks and find the animal. When the animal is sighted, the tracker and guide back away slowly to indicate that they are not a threat. The leopard may run initially but, given their curious natures, seldom moves far, allowing the tracker and guide team to return with the vehicle and drive to the spot where the animal was last seen.
As this process is repeated, some leopards gradually learn that people on foot come and go and do not represent a threat. This is not done with the intention of walking guests to these animals or fully habituating them on foot, far from it. Most reserves have strict policies against tracking cats with tourists in tow. Though young individuals may initially be curious and even approach or follow a tracking team, they invariably grow out of this behaviour. A wild adult leopard will move away from people approaching too closely on foot.
Hosana on foot
Jamie Paterson’s personal account:
During my time spent presenting live safaris for WildEarth on Djuma Private Game Reserve from 2015 to 2019, I believe that we as a film crew spent more time than was appropriate with Hosana on foot. I have spent months reflecting on this conclusion and seeking advice from those more expert than myself. We only started approaching him and his sister without the vehicle when they were just under a year old, but they would still have been at a highly impressionable age. It was not uncommon for us to spend extended periods sitting within their comfort zones.
Whether or not our actions contributed to his death is impossible to know and may even be unlikely. However, upon reflection, I do think spending so much time with him on foot had the potential to make him more vulnerable to anthropogenic conflict. This is my personal belief and one that is not necessarily shared by those who worked with me at the time. It is challenging to view objectively because Hosana’s death was, whatever the circumstances, a freak event. Like all adult leopards we had experience with, we know that he grew out of his youthful curiosity and began moving away from people on foot. Had he not encountered the counter-poaching unit (CPU) that day, he probably would have gone on to live a natural life with no harm done.
But in my opinion, the fact that Hosana began to behave differently as an adult does not mean that the lesson we instilled in him over the years (that people hanging around on foot do not represent a threat) was forgotten. To be clear, I do not for one second believe that this process would have made him more dangerous to people or even more likely to charge. But whatever the circumstances surrounding his death, the risk was always that if push came to shove (defending a kill, for instance), we had already shaped his natural instincts and responses to the sight of people moving into his personal space.
I raise this now not as a confession (a few thousand people watched us do it live) but because I feel there is a fundamental lesson to be learnt from this. I know that during my time at WildEarth, we as a guiding team strove to maintain a high standard of ethics and keep our impact to a minimum. We did not spend time with those cubs to exploit them for financial or narrative gain – the thought that we could be jeopardising their futures would have horrified us. We were exceedingly cautious about reading their behaviour, never frightening them and never venturing (or allowing them) too close. We experienced something magical with Hosana and wanted to share it with the world to build a connection between our audiences and a wild leopard. The circumstances all aligned – his mother was relaxed, he was young and male and curious, and so on. To my knowledge, no other leopard followed by WildEarth’s live safaris has been habituated to people on foot to the same extent.
We all have 20/20 hindsight, and I cannot speak for others, but I look back on my actions with regret. I know of guides who leave their trackers on foot with young leopards while at other sightings and those that spend their day off sitting with their favourite leopards. I am in no position to pass on instruction, but we (and the experts we have spoken to) cannot condone this. I hope future film crews and guides will remember this message when deciding how to view an individual animal on foot, particularly a relaxed predator. We must constantly remind ourselves that we are not the only people that an animal may encounter on foot and that the animal may move away to an area where they are unknown and where their accommodating nature could be misunderstood.
Famous Sabi Sands leopard Hosana
Human-wildlife conflict
Human-wildlife conflict is an enormous topic and one that is largely beyond the scope of this article. Nearly two-thirds of leopard distribution in South Africa fall outside protected areas ( Jacobson et al., 2016 ). Leopards are highly adaptable, have a broad geographic range and readily adapt to human-dominated environments, making them a leading carnivore conflict species in South Africa ( Seoraj-Pillai, 2016 ). Snaring and the poaching of leopards for their pelts are also significant threats to leopard safety.
Leopards have probably been lurking around human habitation, largely unseen, for as long as there have been humans and leopards in the same place. In South Africa, there is no evidence to suggest that habituated leopards from private reserves are more likely to endanger livestock or people. All the studies we accessed on leopard livestock killings and other types of conflict come from research conducted in areas where leopards are unhabituated (example: Constant, 2014; Pitman et al., 2017; Seoraj-Pillai, 2016; Viollaz et al., 2021 ). Leopard attacks on people, which are rare, seldom seem to involve habituated individuals (we know of two incidents involving habituated leopards during our respective careers). Our research into historic leopard attacks all involved unhabituated animals (a reminder that we consider animals around camps that have been fed or associate people with food as tamed, not habituated). Habituated leopards are still wild animals – they may go on to kill livestock or injure people – but they do not appear to be more likely to do so because they have grown up in private reserves around people.
The authors question whether young dispersal leopards who are more comfortable around humans and lodges may be more at risk of being robbed of instinctive wariness
But what of the reverse? Does habituation make these leopards more vulnerable? Young male leopards disperse in search of territory. Some may get lucky and find themselves a territorial vacuum down the road from their natal range, but others must seek further afield. The longest recorded dispersal was a subadult male that travelled a minimum distance of 353km (194.5km in a straight line) through three different countries: Mozambique, Swaziland and South Africa ( Fattebert et al. 2013 ). Thus the chances of a young habituated male leopard leaving the sanctuary of the reserve he was born in are higher than for a female.
Some young males simply disappear, never to be seen again. The majority will have died of natural causes – dispersal is a dangerous time in a young leopard’s life. However, the authors wondered if these young dispersal male leopards that have spent their lives near people and walking through lodges may be blithely walking into a far more dangerous world, robbed of an instinctive wariness that might have increased their survival odds.
Fortunately, neither expert opinion nor our research supports this conclusion. Balme et al. (2019) investigated the population dynamics of Sabi Sands and found that few leopards leave the reserve’s boundaries. According to their data, human factors have accounted for less than 2% of known leopard deaths in and around the Sabi Sands since 1975. By comparison, over half of all known leopard deaths in the Phinda-uMkhuze complex between 2002 and 2012 were anthropogenic, including legal destruction by farmers due to livestock depredation, snaring and poaching ( Balme et al ., 2009 ). (It should be noted that the leopard population in the Phinda-uMkhuze complex has since largely recovered due to policy changes.)
This may not be an apple-to-apple comparison, but these two protected areas share similar habitats, levels of prey abundance and natural leopard densities ( Naude et al. , 2020 ). As such, these are revealing statistics. They tell us that other more pressing factors are at play than habituation, such as fence quality, neighbouring-land use and even variations in local cultural perspectives of leopards. So, we can but conclude that habituated leopards – like Hukumuri and others – may still die in human-wildlife conflict because it is one of the significant threats facing leopards in South Africa today. But not because they are habituated to vehicles or people.
Another famous leopard, Hukumuri, was shot after killing livestock in a rural village near Sabi Sands
The importance of training
This is one of the most important conversations to come out of Hosana’s death and one that we believe to be far more pressing than the impact of habituation: the training of guides, counter-poaching units and field operatives for wildlife encounters. Guide, expert tracker and author Alex Van Den Heever recently informed us that over 90% of South Africa’s field rangers he has evaluated in tracking skills – those walking the bushveld daily – are not sufficiently skilled to manage wildlife encounters. This aligns with the authors’ personal experiences and is a deplorable state of affairs. It is incumbent upon reserve and park authorities to ensure that the teams employed to operate within their wild spaces are fully trained.
Approaching this topic without seeming to point fingers is nigh on impossible, and yet that is not the intention. This is not to say that every reserve and national park is employing poorly trained CPUs or field operatives. Those involved in counter-poaching operations put their lives on the line to keep our wilderness areas safe for the myriad species that inhabit them. We salute them and are forever indebted to them for being the soldiers in the war against poaching. However, if we as guides need to question our motives and ethics around habituation, and ask some tough questions, perhaps the CPUs and field rangers operating in these areas also need to question if they could do things differently.
Anyone (be they guides, trackers, CPUs, field rangers, security staff and even hospitality staff) working in a reserve or national park where wildlife will be encountered should be appropriately trained for such events. In places where animals are habituated, this training needs to consider that the wildlife may be more relaxed around people on foot and may not behave as expected or move off as readily if approached.
It is telling that over the many decades of living alongside habituated leopards in the Sabi Sands, incidents of conflict within the reserve are limited to a handful of isolated events. To the best of our knowledge (and that of those we questioned), no guide has ever had to shoot a leopard in self-defence, on foot or from a vehicle. That is as it should be. The number of leopard/human encounters on foot in the Sabi Sands is exceptionally high because, as mentioned above, they are tracked by guides and trackers for vehicle sightings. Tracking these cats often results in finding mothers and cubs and leopards with kills. In these circumstances, one would assume leopards might react defensively or aggressively, but this is rarely the case. This is due partly to the habituation process and partly to the skill of the guides and trackers at not provoking the animal, remaining neutral and appearing unthreatening.
Two vastly different forms of training are offered to those who walk in the bushveld. One approach is that of “sensitivity comes first”. Reputable guide-training facilities focus not only on rifle handling and shooting but also train guides not to provoke an animal to the point that it feels the need to charge. Through countless scenarios, training walks, shadowing experienced trackers, Big-5 pressure testing and unarmed walk experiences, guides are equipped with the experience, confidence and knowledge to approach animals on foot without threatening them. The overwhelming message in good training is that if an animal charges you, it is invariably your fault. You have to use your training to de-escalate the situation to ensure the safety of the animal, your guests, and yourself. Sensitive training emphasises that it is not the rifle that gets you out of a tricky situation but your calm assessment and reaction. The rifle is there for legal reasons, and we, as guides, must be appropriately trained to use it. But the focus is on respect for the animals and one’s ability to get out of encounters without provoking the animal to the point that it has no option but to attack.
Then there is the kind of training we will refer to as reactive training. The emphasis here is on rifle handling, speed and shot placement – how to react quickly with a rifle and put the target down as fast as possible. Unfortunately, reactive training is prevalent in the guiding industry and even more so for CPUs sent out into reserves to search for poachers. Maxine has trained guides in three African countries and has spoken to rangers in national parks and guides in Botswana and Zimbabwe – their training follows an almost identical approach. Some reserves and countries still require that you provoke an elephant or buffalo to charge and then shoot it as part of your training to be a guide (ZPGA 2022 ). During their careers as guides, both authors have attended “dangerous game” workshops and training sessions for rangers and guides that focus mainly on shot placement and rifle handling skills over reading an animal’s behaviour and making appropriate choices. The rifle instinctively becomes the first resort, the best defence against wild animals. There is a disconnect here, and we believe the ecotourism industry, particularly in Southern Africa, needs to evolve beyond this.
Naturally, CPUs need specialised training to face the very real threat of armed poachers. Walking with wildlife can be dangerous, and we acknowledge that there may be instances where there is no choice but to shoot an animal. There is an undeniable need for secrecy around how CPUs are trained. We are also aware that in many instances, CPUs are armed with low-caliber weapons intended for human encounters, and not for large animals (though this arguably increases the need for a sensitive approach to animal behaviour). There is no excuse for sending poorly trained (for wildlife encounters) teams out into the wild to endanger their own lives and those of the animals they encounter. We see no reason why the knowledge and experience of expert trackers, guides, field rangers and CPUs could not be shared to the benefit of all parties.
Van den Heever reports that Tracker Academy has started a new training programme aimed in part at addressing these concerns. The academy’s Rhino Guardians programme will equip field rangers with the skills necessary to improve tracking competence, dealing with potentially dangerous animals on foot, and bushcraft.
Ethics of the guides
This is a well-established topic, and we can add little new except to re-emphasise the importance of self-reflection as a guide. Many guides unfortunately lack the humility to understand that tourists come to Africa to see the animals, not the guide. Thus instead of making the wilderness the focus of the safari, they selfishly promote themselves at the expense of the wildlife. These are the “bad” guides – tip chasers and attention-seekers with little genuine respect for the wild – and this will only be exacerbated by the appeal of transient social media fame. Nothing we say is likely to change that. It is up to the reserve management and guiding teams to weed out these insensitive guides and either offer further training or dismiss them. In the best reserves, this does happen. In others, it does not, and the same mistakes are repeated again and again.
However, the truth is that even good, sensitive guides may find that certain boundaries can be hard to gauge because there is no one-size-fits-all instruction manual for ethical guiding. This is why regularly evaluating one’s choices and having open discussions is vital – ask questions of yourself and others. We spoke at the start of established practices – some are tried, tested and correct. But our knowledge of what is and is not appropriate is constantly evolving, and the best guiding teams adopt new ethical practices (like using spotlight filters, for example) when new evidence is presented. Trophy hunting may be rightly subject to considerable scrutiny, but there is no reason why the ecotourism industry – which also has a significant ecological impact – should be given a free pass.
Final thoughts
These questions and conversations are perhaps not new to those who have spent a lifetime discussing them around the fire in guiding and reserve management circles. However, they are important ones to continue addressing. They speak to the responsibilities of private reserves and “ecotourism”/photographic safaris and the role of the potentially lucrative tourism industry in conservation. Left unaddressed, deaths of animals such as Hosana leave room for misunderstanding and feed the growing cynicism directed at management teams of conservation areas.
We are gravely concerned by the apparent lack of training offered to guides, field operatives and CPUs that we expect to risk their lives to keep our wildlife safe. This is a recipe for future tragedies, human and animal alike.
Had we the time and tools to quantify the benefits and drawbacks of habituation (correctly understood and defined), there is no rational doubt that the benefits would outweigh any potential negatives by a substantial margin in the South African context. To reiterate, the Sabi Sands is home to one of the highest densities of leopards in Africa – higher than comparable habitats in neighbouring Kruger National Park (L Smythe, personal communication). Incidents of conflict within the reserve or in neighbouring villages (that we are aware of) are low compared to the neighbouring Kruger National Park and other regions with wild, unhabituated leopards.
Among the deluge of tributes to Hosana, we have seen a few scoff at the fuss made of this “named celebrity” leopard. We know the many arguments against naming wild animals – they have been debated to death and are largely moot in today’s world. But the impact of this one leopard, whose life was broadcast across the planet, cannot be overstated. He inspired a passion for wildlife across generations, cultures and continents. He brought people who otherwise might never have considered a safari, to Africa. He also brought Africa to those for whom travel was an impossibility. He taught us so much about leopard life. Human-wildlife conflict and habitat loss continue to be the two greatest threats to Africa’s wildlife and wild spaces. Hosana’s death should serve as a stark reminder of this. While questions around habituation and guiding practices will always be critical discussion points, we cannot lose sight of the fact that leopards (and Africa’s wild spaces) face other, far graver threats.
The authors would like to thank the following individuals for their invaluable assistance and guidance in compiling this article: Alex Van Den Heever, Dr Lucy Smythe, James Hendry, Dr Julien Fattebert and James Richard.
Purvis, A., Gittleman, J.L., Cowlishaw, G. and Mace, G.M., 2000. Predicting extinction risk in declining species. Proceedings of the royal society of London. Series B: Biological Sciences , 267 (1456), pp.1947-1952.
Stein, A.B., Athreya, V., Gerngross, P., Balme, G., Henschel, P., Karanth, U., Miquelle, D., Rostro, S., Kamler, J.F. and Laguardia, A., 2016. Panthera pardus . The IUCN Red List of Threatened Species 2016: e. T15954A50659089. Gland, Switzerland: IUCN.
Jamie Paterson, scientific editor at Africa Geographic, was born in South Africa and grew up exploring the country’s wild spaces at every available opportunity. On successfully completing her honours in law at the University of Cambridge, she returned home and dove headlong into the wilderness, working as both a research and trails guide. Jamie also spent several years as a wildlife television presenter for WildEarth, NatGeo Wild and SafariLIVE in the Lowveld of South Africa and the Maasai Mara in Kenya. A desire to tell Africa’s stories as they deserve to be told led her to Africa Geographic, where she now works as the scientific editor. Jamie is currently completing a degree in Veterinary Science at the University of Pretoria.
Maxine Gaines is a wildlife biologist, with a BSc Honours degree and over 12 years of experience observing and studying leopards in the wild. Her undergrad degree was a BSc with majors in Botany and Zoology from Wits University. Maxine then went on to study a BSc Honours in Environmental Management through UNISA which she achieved cum laude. She has more than 12 years of experience observing and studying leopards in the wild, 10 of these at Londolozi Game Reserve in the Sabi Sands, Greater Kruger National Park. There, leopards were a particular interest and Maxine was one of three Leopard Specialist Guides for many years. After leaving Londolozi, she was privileged to work as a guide and trainer of field guides for &Beyond (then CCAfrica) in East Africa. She was able to add to her knowledge of leopard behaviour in this very different environment. She is currently a student again enrolled at UNISA for an MSc in Nature Conservation, with Predator Behaviour and Conservation being the focus of her studies.
This week we are celebrating African icons. In our first story, we celebrate a safari icon: the humble tent – a symbol of freedom for adventurers. From simple canvas stretched over poles to opulent villas in remote destinations, tents enable their inhabitants to be fully immersed in their surroundings and experience the rawness of the wild. We’ve put together a selection of our favourite tented camps on the continent below.
In our second story, we are delving into the evolutionary wonders of another icon of the African safari: the giraffe. How does the world’s tallest animal cope with high blood pressure? Learn more below.
We’d also like to take a moment this week to honour the rangers who make conservation in Africa possible. 31 July is World Ranger Day. But we head into this year’s commemorations under a cloud. In the past few weeks we’ve learned of tragedies befalling rangers who are dedicated to protecting rhinos and other endangered species. Whether meeting poachers on the ground or being targeted by poaching syndicates for the good work they are doing, these rangers risk their lives and families to fight for our wildlife. This day is about more than taking a moment to acknowledge their work – it is to honour the sacrifices made by these wildlife warriors. What can you do to help? Keep backing conservation in Africa, and the ranger-support and anti-poaching projects that empower rangers to do their good work.
Happy celebrating Africa to you all!
Taryn van Jaarsveld – Editor
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
I have been fortunate to spend a significant portion of my life staring at wild animals, but, every now and again, I still have moments of existential wonder at their remarkable shapes and sizes. When you next find yourself with a minute or two to spare, have another look at the winners of this year’s Photographer of the Year and marvel at the diversity of forms, figures and colours on display.
Did you know that giraffe have a mean average blood pressure twice that of most mammals? Blood pressures that high could easily kill a human being (or at least substantially compromise the cardiovascular system). So, how do giraffe survive it? You’ll have to read our second story below to find out.
Our CEO’s choice. This is one for the experienced traveller wanting to do something completely different; a total break from the clutter of modern-day life and Covid-era stresses. Search for lowland gorillas, bongos, forest elephants, dwarf crocodiles and flocks of grey parrots in the jungles and bais of the Odzala-Kokoua National Park in Congo.
For the lovers of art, we have one place left on this popular art safari in Big 5 Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger – departing in August. Join professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls, who will share advice and tips in the field and back in camp.
Or find (and even design) your own safari. It’s easy: login to our app, tap/click the ‘Travel with us’ tab, and select either ‘packages’ or ‘lodges’. You can filter your choice by place and other important choices (such as lodges in non-malaria areas or packages that include the Big 5). You can add your selection of lodges and packages to your wishlist – which will remain saved until you choose to edit or delete.
Supertuskers in Tsavo East
Meet monitor Christine Mwende and supertusker Konomoju2. Our CEO Simon spent time with them and Tsavo Trust in Tsavo East National Park in Kenya a few days ago. Simon is currently at the coastal paradise of Watamu tracking down the Sokoke scops owl, golden-rumped sengi and other wondrous creatures before heading to the Maasai Mara National Park for the Greatest Show on Earth.
WATCH: In their mission to protect Amboseli’s wildlife, Big Life Foundation has built a barrier against poachers. Now, people from local communities work to protect wildlife. Ranger by ranger, their force has grown bigger. More than 300 rangers now protect 647 000ha (02:20). Click here to watch
A tent is a marvellous thing: not just a safe, weatherproof cocoon but a symbol of freedom for avid explorers the world over. For the safari industry, tents have always played a pivotal role in countless journeys to Africa, sometimes evolving from simple canvas stretched over poles to opulent villas in remote destinations. Yet the one thing they all have in common is a sense of absolute immersion, with just a thin piece of material between their occupants and the wilderness (and creatures) on the other side… These are our some of our favourite tented camps from across Africa:
Everything but the Range Rover
Ultra-luxury in the middle of some of the remotest corners of Africa may sound like something of an oxymoron, but these tented camps prove that nothing is impossible.
Duba Plains Suite, Okavango Delta, Botswana
This exquisite private two-bedroom tented villa is tucked away in an exclusive section of the Okavango Delta, arguably the home of the luxury safari. The suite is raised on a wooden decking offering an unparalleled vantage point to observe the Delta’s famed wildlife viewing. Elegant features and attention to detail make this one of the most luxurious tented camp options.
Mara Plains Jahazi Suite, Olare Motorogi Conservancy
The intimate Mara Plains Jahazi Suite is so beautifully designed and appointed that were it not for the sweeping views and draped canvas overhead, it would be easy to forget that one was in a tent in Africa. Dine out to a lamplit dinner on the veranda before retreating to a night of sleep serenaded by Mara’s wild creatures.
Jack’s Camp, Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, Botswana
In the middle of a land of vast space and otherworldly vistas, Jack’s Camp is resplendent, swathed in muslin and canvas: an homage to a forgotten era of safaris. The rich colours and ornate décor make time spent in the camp almost as engaging as exploring the wilderness beyond.
Angama Mara, Mara Triangle, Kenya
There are few views as magnificent as the one from Angama Mara’s beautifully appointed tents, decorated in the dazzling colours of traditional Maa culture. The name “Angama Mara” was inspired by the Swahili word for “suspended in mid-air”, and each tent “floats” 300 metres above the plains of the Maasai Mara, with the dark green S-bends of the Mara River curving south as far as the eye can see.
Jack’s Camp in the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans pays homage to a forgotten era of safaris; Mara Plains Jahazi Suite is intimate and beautifully designed; iconic Angama Mara offers some of the continent’s best views; find luxury in the Okavango Delta at Duba Plains Suite
The definition of glamping
With the rise of the luxury tented safari experience came the increasing popularity of the term “glamping” – a portmanteau of “glamorous” and “camping”. These destinations take glamping to a whole new level.
Lemala Nanyukie Lodge, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
“Nanyukie” translates as “endless plains” in Maa, the perfect description of the celebrated Serengeti surroundings. Lemala Nanyukie Lodge is based in a region of the Serengeti known for its exceptional concentration of cats, so anticipate falling asleep to the sound of a lion’s roar rumbling through the canvas walls, at one of Africa’s most comfortable tented camps.
Saseka Tented Camp, Thornybush Private Game Reserve, Greater Kruger, South Africa
Each of the luxury tents in Saseka comes with its own private deck, outdoor shower, and pool with views over the riverbed of one of the most wildlife-dense reserves in South Africa.
Mara Nyika Camp, Naboisho Conservancy, Kenya
Mara Nyika is an intimate tented camp set in a valley of one of the Maasai Mara’s largest private conservancies. Privacy and pampering are the fundamental pillars of the Mara Nyika Camp experience, set against one of the most spectacular backdrops in Africa.
Chisa Busanga Camp, Kafue National Park, Zambia
On a beautiful island in the heart of Busanga Plains you’ll find extraordinary Chisa Busanga Camp – characterised by human-sized bird’s nests inspired by the design of a weaver’s nest. Built from sticks and lined with canvas, this architectural marvel offers a unique way to experience the seasonal Kafue National Park.
Stay in Chisa Busanga’s human-sized bird nests; enjoy river views in Greater Kruger at Saseka Tented Camp; Mara Nyika is based in one of Maasai Mara’s largest private conservancies; pampering is the order of the day at Lemale Nanyukie
The tent next door
Roughing it in the wild is all good and well, but there is absolutely nothing wrong with wanting some creature comforts while doing so. Thankfully, you’ll find the perfect balance at these tented camps.
Ongava Tented Camp, bordering Etosha National Park, Namibia
A safari classic, the Meru-style tents of Ongava Tented Camp all have ensuite facilities, open-air showers and private verandas. Tucked in a hidden valley at the foot of a dolomite hill, the camp is a natural extension of the arid landscape surrounding it.
Explorer Camp, Shamwari Private Game Reserve, South Africa
Explorer Camp is the ideal destination for those looking to explore Shamwari Private Game Reserve on foot. Here, visitors will discover the natural bounty of diverse flora, abundant insects, and the region’s many large and small mammals. Rustic and intimate, Explorer Camp offers the perfect combination of simple amenities and natural immersion.
Lemala Ngorongoro, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania
Hidden in an ancient acacia forest a short distance from the rim of the world-famous Ngorongoro Crater, the spacious tents of Lemala Ngorongoro Tented Camp are carefully positioned to provide privacy to their guests while keeping the impact on the pristine forest to a minimum. And it’s just a short drive to the magnificent wildlife viewing on the Crater’s floor!
Hide out in an ancient acacia forest at Lemala Ngorongoro; Immerse yourself in the Etosha landscape at Ongava; Discover Shamwari on foot with Explorer Camp as your base
Back to basics
Escaping to the wild doesn’t have to be about enjoying every convenience, and sometimes simpler really is better. There are plenty of ways to camp out in comfort without breaking the bank!
Flatdogs Camp, South Luangwa National Park, Zambia
The safari tents at Flatdogs Camp encapsulate the essence of an authentic “Africa under canvas” experience, set in a prime position along a riverbank in the heart of the world-renowned South Luangwa National Park.
Ndutu Kati Kati Tented Camp, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
Ndutu Kati Kati is a seasonal mobile camp, strategically situated in southern Serengeti from December to March, just in time to take advantage of the excitement of the arrival of the Great Migration. This camp is all about wildlife viewing, and the simple tents are the perfect base to rest between adventures.
Sango Safari Camp, Khwai Community Concession, Botswana
Nestled in the shade of the riverine trees overlooking the remarkable Khwai River, the ensuite Meru-style tents of Sango Safari Camp offer the perfect base from which to explore this magnificent part of the Okavango Delta. As one of the continent’s most exceptional little tented camps, Sango Safari Camp provides a neat compromise between affordability and subtle comfort.
Flat Dogs is based in a prime position along the riverbank in South Luangwa; enjoy affordable comfort in Khwai at Sango Safari Camp; be up close to Migration action at Ndutu Kati Kati
Back of beyond
Get off the beaten track and explore, then curl up in bed and embrace the sounds of the African bushveld after dark.
Ivory Trail Adventure, Gonarezhou National Park, Zimbabwe
This mobile camping experience allows exploration of the remotest corners of one of Zimbabwe’s greatest wilderness areas. The Ivory Trail Adventure is undeniably aptly named, with simple stretcher beds, bucket showers, and a long-drop toilet.
Ishasha Wilderness Camp, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda
Escape to the banks of the Ntungwe River at the Ishasha Wilderness Camp in Uganda’s Queen Elizabeth National Park, where you will share your space with resident troops of black-and-white colobus monkeys or a herd of passing elephants.
Mundulea Bush Camp and Walking Trails, Mundulea Nature Reserve, Namibia
The low-impact tents of Mundulea Bush Camp are hidden among woodland and dolomite outcrops in the unspoiled Karstveld. Each tent has its own private veranda area where guests can take a moment to soak in the absolute peace and quiet of this remote region of Namibia’s central highlands.
Mwaleshi Camp, North Luangwa National Park, Zambia
In the vast wilderness of Africa’s golden valley, North Luangwa National Park is often referred to as the home of the walking safari, and most of comfortable Mwaleshi Camp’s activities are conducted on foot. Here canvas has been replaced by thatching, but the effect is just as immersive. The simple camp perfectly matches the authentic, down-to-earth tone that epitomises the Zambian safari experience.
Mwaleshi is an iconic destination for walking safaris; experience colobus monkeys and elephants at Ishasha; explore remote wilderness on the Ivory Trail Adventure; enjoy the unspoiled Karstveld at Mundelea Bush Camp
Want to head out on your canvas safari? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.
Giraffe evolution has long fascinated biologists. Unique in the animal kingdom, their towering stature confers considerable advantages for access to out-of-the-way resources and vantage for spotting predators. Recent research delves into how giraffe genetics have shaped their ability to defy gravity. The giraffe’s great height comes with significant physiological challenges, including maintaining the necessary blood pressure and bone density to support it.
Giraffes need to pump blood up to two metres above the level of the heart to supply the brain with oxygenated blood. This, in turn, necessitates pumping blood at a pressure double that of most other mammals – pressure that would cause severe damage to the human cardiovascular system.
How the giraffe survives with such high blood pressure is a mystery slowly being unravelled by scientists
Factoring in growth
Research had previously isolated a gene known as FGFRL1 (the fibroblast growth factor receptor-like protein 1). In giraffes, this gene shows seven mutations not present in other ruminants. Given that different mutations in this gene are known to cause cardiovascular and skeletal defects in humans and mice, researchers hypothesised that the giraffe’s exceptional FGFRL1 must be responsible for some of its specialised adaptations.
To test this, the authors of the new study used cutting-edge technology to insert the giraffe gene into mice. The modified mice and a control group without the gene then received a drug to increase blood pressure. The results were pretty conclusive: the “giraffe-type FGFRL1 mice” suffered less cardiovascular and organ damage than the normal mice. In fact, after 28 days of exposure to the angiotensin II drug, the modified mice showed no indications of hypertension – their blood pressure remained at the average.
Though the mechanisms behind this gene action are still not understood, the authors tentatively speculate that this research may well contribute to future gene therapies for humans suffering the adverse effects of high blood pressure.
Giraffes have average bone mineral density, despite fast skeletal growth rates
Dem bones
Giraffes have one of the highest skeletal growth rates of any mammal – a calf will double its height during its first year. As a general rule, fast skeletal growth rates are associated with decreased bone strength, but adult giraffes have average bone mineral density. Interestingly, the “giraffe-type FGFRL1 mice” had significantly higher bone mineral densities, bone volume/total volume ratios and average trabeculae (essentially, the supportive “struts” in bone) thickness than the normal mice. Thus, it seems highly probable that the FGFRL1 gene in giraffes plays a role in maintaining compact and robust bones.
This particular finding goes to the heart of the basics of evolution and, in particular, evolutionary pleiotropy. Pleiotropy describes a situation where one gene impacts two or more seemingly unrelated physical traits. This may help explain how substantial phenotypic changes could have taken place over a relatively short evolutionary time.
Constant vigilance
In compiling the genome assembly, the study details how giraffes are adapted to have what is thought to be the best eyesight of any of the Artiodactyls (even-toed ungulates such as antelope and buffalo). This may be particularly important for giraffe because their reaction speeds are fractionally slower than most mammals because of a delay in neuron transmission caused by neuron length. Not only did the researchers identify several genes related to optical development, but they also showed that the giraffe has a reduced sense of smell. Compared to its closest relative, the okapi, the giraffe lacks at least 53 olfactory-related genes. This may well be a natural trade-off in sensory acuity seen in other animals (often arboreal species).
Unlike most other animals, a resting giraffe is not particularly well suited to rising quickly and gracefully, making them more vulnerable to predators. They also require high volumes of food. As a result, giraffe sleep durations are among the lowest recorded. The study outlines clear evidence of the rapid evolution of specific genes critical in maintaining circadian rhythms and sleep arousal systems. Thus, the giraffe’s genome allows for short and fragmented sleep.
A tall order
Though the mysteries of the giraffe’s great height are far from entirely revealed, this research goes a long way towards improving our understanding of evolution on a genetic level. In particular, it provides crucial insights into how pleiotropy and some “lucky” mutations produced one of the most fascinating creatures on the planet.
To learn about how you can contribute to the conservation of giraffes, read more about our project partner The Giraffe Conservation Foundation. Login to view – details below.
I have just arrived at Tsavo East National Park in Kenya – my first stop on an epic safari planned by teamAG
We head out soon to spend precious time with those giant dignified tuskers that define this area and perhaps even catch a glimpse of hirola – the world’s rarest antelope! I will be accompanying a biodiversity patrol for a few days – to appreciate the work that goes into keeping Tsavo safe. After that, I journey to the coastal forest of Arabuko Sokoke to learn about the work being done to preserve this precious place – and to track down Sokoke scops owl, golden-rumped sengi and other delights. And finally, my safari heads off to the Maasai Mara to join clients on a photographic safari. We will use a modified photography vehicle, and off-road driving permits only issued to approved guides who drive responsibly. That’s three stories you can look forward to 🙂
FOMO? Perhaps it’s time to contact us to start planning your next safari. You can do that by replying to this newsletter or emailing our team at travel@africageographic.com – let them know your wishlist. First, check out our packages here (website) and here (app). Safari njema!
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
A few weeks ago, we ran a balanced and heartfelt reflection on famous Sabi Sands leopardHosana’s untimely death. The ensuing discussion on our story continued for weeks, as interested parties weighed in on our platforms. What became clear was that a slew of issues required consideration and investigation.
This week Jamie and co-author Maxine Gaines – who both hold deep connections to Hosana and Sabi Sand Game Reserve – have, after thorough research and enquiry, penned an exceptional and exhaustive analysis on leopard habituation and the ethics of tourism surrounding leopards. The story below is available exclusively on our app for the next few days, where you can join the discussion with the AG tribe. Get the app to view – it’s free.
Malawi’s Majete Wildlife Reserve has all the makings of a coveted safari destination. This realm of towering granite hills, grassy plains, abundant wildlife and the mighty Shire River has seen droves of tourists returning to experience a vibrant and thriving wilderness. Read our guide on this reserve, and on how to visit it, in our second story below.
Happy celebrating Africa to you all!
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Almost exactly seven years ago, I first set foot in the Sabi Sand Game Reserve, bursting with excitement and somewhat wide-eyed at the position I had found myself in. Would that I could travel back in time – what words of frail wisdom would I impart? (I have some ideas, though not all are relevant to the topic at hand.)
Did you know that the habituation of leopards (and many other species), has contributed enormously to our scientific knowledge of these beautiful, cryptic animals? Our first story of the week, written by myself and my friend Maxine Gaines, is the culmination of months of work and careful consideration. It tells the story of leopards we have known, their habituation to people and the ethos of the industry we both understand well. Its messages are borne from the heart, and we sincerely hope they are received in the spirit in which they were intended.
Conservation today is a tangled web of complex challenges, each strand convoluted and inextricably linked to several others. It is often much easier to villainise and rail against the “bad guys” (and tar others with the same brush) than to face the fact that silver bullet solutions are few and far between.
Somehow taking a middle ground has become the new extremism, attracting ire and condemnation. But I still believe in honesty and transparency and hope our story below reflects that.
Our CEO’S choice is one for the experienced safari-goer seeking the ultimate experience (and images) of raw Africa at her best. Join popular photographer guide Villiers Steyn and experienced local guides in Chitake, Mana Pools, Zimbabwe. Four places left.
JUST DO IT! For the pursuit of culinary delights and Big-5 safari heaven, there is this: Bush & beach, Pinotage to predators – South Africa – 12 days. You know you want to
Find other ready-made packages or even design your own safari. It’s easy: login to our app, tap/click the ‘Travel with us’ tab, and select either ‘packages’ or ‘lodges’. You can filter your choice by place and other important choices (such as lodges in non-malaria areas or packages that include the Big 5). You can add your selection of lodges and packages to your wishlist – which will remain saved until you choose to edit or delete.
You can help desert lions
Did you know that the AG app hosts a hand-picked selection of trusted conservation and community projects that are of real benefit to Africa’s people, ecosystems and wildlife? This empowers the AG tribe to offer support & donate to projects that make a difference.
We’ve just added Desert Lion Conservation Trust to our list of conservation projects. The trust has been collecting data on the desert-adapted lion population and studying their behaviour, biology and ability to adapt to the harsh desert environment. Their work is mitigating threats and providing much-needed help to these magnificent and resilient lions. See how you can help.
WATCH: Lemurs get high | We know many animals self-medicate. Check out these lemurs chewing on toxic millipedes and spreading them on their bodies – seemingly as an insect repellent – while becoming intoxicated in the process (02:40). Click here to watch
It’s been a long journey, and the guardians of the small crate and its precious cargo are exhausted. A pair of amber eyes gleam in the darkness, wary and burning with wildfire. The crate slides open, and in a blur of spots and tawny fur, the cheetah hurtles out into the wild of her new home – one of the first cheetahs to set foot in Malawi’s Majete Wildlife Reserve in decades. Her arrival is just one step in the delicate process of transforming this vital piece of Africa back into a vibrant and thriving wilderness.
Majete Wildlife Reserve has all the makings of a coveted safari destination, a reserve now afforded the opportunity to live up to its considerable potential. And two years after cheetahs returned to Majete, the first cubs emerged from a secret den, marking the dawn of a new era for the reserve.
The reserve and Malawi’s wild spaces
In the Lower Shire River valley in Malawi’s southwestern corner, Majete Wildlife Reserve encompasses 700km2 (70,000 hectares) of towering granite hills, grassy plains, and miombo woodlands. Bulbous star chestnuts have forced their way up through the rocky kopjes, and hulking baobabs dot the savanna, while the riparian forests of the river valley are lush with ilala palms and ancient mahoganies.
Every river in Africa has its own distinctive character, and these landscape lifelines tend to dominate and define the continent’s wild spaces. So it is in Majete, where the two main rivers are entirely unalike. The Mkulumadzi is gentle and charming, flowing through patches of boulders and along small open floodplains. The more famous Shire is mighty, fast and deep (check out this footage of the capricious river after heavy rains), forcing its resident hippos and crocodiles to endure the currents. The Shire subsumes the smaller Mkulumadzi in the heart of Majete and continues south to tumble over the picturesque Kapichira Falls. Nearly two hundred years ago, David Livingstone and his crew followed the course of this river, which would eventually (after a detour around the falls) lead them to the shores of Lake Malawi. The Shire is the only outlet of Lake Malawi in the north and winds its way through Malawi before eventually joining the Zambezi River to the south.
Towering hills and miombo woodlands characterise the reserve; the might Shire River subsumes the smaller Mkulumadzi in the heart of Majete; towering baobabs dot the landscape; wildlife numbers are on the rise in the reserve; a small island in the Shire River
Second chances and new hopes
Majete Wildlife Reserve was the first protected area to fall under the management auspices of African Parks back in 2003. Prior to that, the reserve was a reserve in name only. Charcoal burning and logging had divested vast patches of land of their woodlands, and poaching had claimed the lives of everything from elephants and rhinos to the once vast herds of buffalo and innumerable antelope species. Not one tourist had ventured to the reserve in three years.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
After a lengthy negotiation, the non-profit organisation African Parks entered into a public-private partnership with the Malawi Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW). As part of their now well-established (but then trailblazing) method, African Parks assumed responsibility for the rehabilitation and long-term management of the reserve while providing a source of sustainable income for surrounding communities. They inherited a “wasteland with no perceived value, and little to no hope for a revival”.
African Parks has implemented programs to protect the reserve, with teams successfully securing the safety of wildlife populations in the reserve
But revive it they did, in a careful and painstaking process that has taken close to twenty years. Rather than rushing into a hasty attempt to restock Majete, management teams established the necessary infrastructure and relationships needed to secure the reserve’s long-term future. As is fundamental to the African Parks’ approach, the first step was to institute community development and engagement programs to prove the importance of protecting the reserve. Fences sprang up around the perimeter, the road network was increased tenfold, and lodges, camps and a visitor centre were prepared for the inevitable return of the tourists.
The early days establishment of a smaller and more manageable fenced inner sanctuary (fence since removed) provided a safe haven for both the remaining and translocated wildlife to flourish. Meanwhile, the reserve’s team of 12 grew to over 140 well-equipped, well-motivated and well-trained staff members. In a remarkable testament to their efforts, not one elephant or rhino has been lost to poaching since their return to the reserve.
Tourists have begun to reappear in their droves, with 11,000 visitors generating more than USD 500,000 in revenue in 2019. Aside from the reserve running costs, this money is channelled into community education scholarships, social infrastructure such as clinics, malaria prevention, and bee-keeping projects.
Back from the brink
With remaining wildlife numbers on the rise and their safety ensured, the time had come to bring back the species lost to poaching. First came seven black rhinos in 2003, followed by elephants with the arrival of a herd of 70 in 2006 and additional herds in 2008 and 2009. Today a healthy population of elephants roam Majete Wildlife Reserve, fulfilling their role as ecosystem engineers and reversing the damage to the reserve’s habitats. Translocated giraffes, buffaloes, and sable antelopes all joined the ranks of a burgeoning herbivore population. Since African Parks took over management, more than 5,000 animals from 17 species have been brought into Majete.
Today the reserve is home to a multitude of antelope species, including waterbuck, eland, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest, common duiker, kudu, nyala, bushbuck, Sharpe’s grysbok and suni. With sufficient prey species on the menu, the large carnivores were next on the arrival list. Lions, leopards, cheetahs and, most recently, wild dogs have all made the journey from other countries (mainly South Africa – a trip of over 5,000km) to restore Malawi’s predator populations. These animals fall under the umbrella of the Malawi Predator Metapopulation Management Plan, allowing for an overarching management approach. Along with elephants and rhinos, they and their offspring have aided in the rewilding and genetic supplementation of other reserves around Malawi, such as the Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve in the north of the country.
The gradual rehabilitation of Majete has also been of tremendous benefit to its avian residents (and migrants). Over 300 bird species have been recorded in the reserve. July to November marks the passage of a plethora of migratory bird species through the reserves, including African skimmers and diminutive rock pratincoles. For enthusiasts, Arnot’s and boulder chats, racket-tailed rollers, Pel’s fishing owls, cuckoo hawks, and Boehm’s bee-eaters are all highlights.
Predators, including lions, have made the journey from other countries to restore Malawi’s predator populations; camps such as Thawale have become popular with tourists; the road network of Majete has grown tenfold; Majete has a burgeoning herbivore population; cheetahs have also been returned to the area and are thriving in the reserve
Explore & stay
Selecting an African safari destination is often a deeply personal decision, based on any number of different factors and requirements, from budget to wildlife viewing. One such motivating factor not to be overlooked or dismissed is the story of a reserve and the vital contribution each visit makes to its survival. Every tourist who arrives at this nascent reserve to learn (and retell) its story is an essential cog in the tourism-conservation machine.
Find out about Majete for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.
They will also find themselves well rewarded by a piece of African paradise unspoilt by mass commercial tourism. This may not be the perfect destination for first-time safari-goers clutching a wildlife checklist, but seasoned travellers will revel in the low-key atmosphere, unusual scenery and unexpected joy of encountering wildlife once locally extinct.
The reserve is open to day visitors, but there are campsite and lodge options for those looking to opt for a longer exploration. Thawale Lodge is one such destination in a prime location, offering a fully-catered experience of Majete.
You can see more on Thawale Lodge here:
The Mkulumadzi River and its lawn-like flood plains are well-suited to guided walking safaris, with the bonus of enjoying a well-earned lunch and swimming at the reserve’s Heritage and Education Centre afterwards. Boat excursions on the Shire River are also on offer. The reserve is open year-round but arguably at its best during the dry months from April until October, when the wildlife concentrates around available water. Majete can get very warm, with midday temperatures often exceeding 40 degrees Celsius and very humid conditions with the arrival of seasonal rains.
Sundowners in the reserve; camps and lodges such as Game Capture Camp (top right) and Thawale Lodge (middle row) are becoming firm favourites with tourists; wild dogs have also returned to the reserve; and lions are now very much at home
Magical Majete
There could be no better description of the restoration of Majete Wildlife Reserve than a labour of love, born of twenty years’ worth of dedicated toil. In many ways, for African Parks, it set the stage for the future – a platform to trial new and innovative methods to protect the continent’s most vulnerable wild spaces and proof of just what can be accomplished. What’s more, Majete’s success became a springboard for Malawian conservation, echoes of which can be seen across the country’s other parks and reserves.
African Parks entered into management agreements for Liwonde National Park and Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve, both in Malawi, in 2015.
Jackal alert! A startled ostrich takes evasive action. Photographer of the Year 2022 entrant.
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Cheetah first + self-medicating chimps + gorilla trekking
It’s time to take the management of national parks and reserves away from government and hand over to experts in the private sector. And I mean on a worldwide basis. Time and again, we see ‘protected areas’ neglected to the point that they are poached to a state of barren wasteland or government-sanctioned rape by extraction industries such as mining and logging. How often have we been told that there is no money for conservation or that other priorities are more important? Government ministers are usually political appointments – with precious little understanding of conservation, let alone the deep passion that is so necessary. Imagine if your retirement fund was run by a labour union steward or open-heart surgery performed by bookkeepers. It’s simply ludicrous that government-appointed stooges head up our precious protected areas with little to no experience or passion. And then there is the fraud and corruption that is now endemic amongst some of our ‘leaders’. That said, I need to make a loud shout-out to the rangers and others at ground level who keep the wheels turning, despite such huge odds.
Some African countries have seen the light and handed over protected area management duties to stellar organisations like African Parks. And the results speak for themselves. Well done to these far-sighted leaders. So let’s see more of that!
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
A few months ago, researchers in the Kgalagadi were observing the cheetah they dubbed ‘Lizzie’ and her subadult cub Lokesh, wandering over the dunes. Behind Lokesh, small blurry bundles came into view. With the appearance of these four new cubs, our understanding of cheetah behaviour would change forever. Read our first story below to find out what is so fascinating about this occurrence, which is providing invaluable insight into our understanding of these precious cats. I can only imagine the childlike awe Lizzie’s observers experienced on this discovery – a reminder that despite the bad news, losses, and often thankless struggles faced by conservationists, there is still hope and new wonder to be uncovered.
So too are we discovering new behaviour in primates. Scientists have observed self-medicating behaviour in chimps. Read more about these and other innovative examples of animals self-medicating in our second story.
Happy celebrating Africa to you all!
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
With limited exceptions, we know very little about the lives of individual wild animals. No matter how extraordinary, a sighting offers but a snapshot in time. So is it any wonder these wild creatures, like the cheetah of our first story, continue to surprise?
I suspect that we are destined to learn a great deal more about the complex sociality of seemingly solitary cats. Indeed, the past few years have seen the experts frantically rewriting the books on cougar social behaviours. And did you know that wild leopard and cheetah mothers may adopt another’s cubs? Take Naserian, for instance – a cheetah I spent a few months following in the Maasai Mara. She adopted her nephew and raised him alongside her young son for several months.
Isn’t the wild’s endless capacity for the unexpected simply marvellous?
If you have safari FOMO because so many lucky travellers are currently out there enjoying their African adventures then consider these two epic opportunities to reboot and indulge yourself 🙂
• Or really push the boat out and indulge in this 19-day mega safari – a proper southern African sojourn. From Cape Town to Vic Falls and Chobe to Khwai, this is the ultimate gift to yourself and your loved ones
• Visit our app to see more epic packages or plan your own safari by selecting ‘lodges’ in the menu dropdown. It’s easy
Marvellous Madikwe
App subscriber Colin West writes:
“We have just returned from our first stay at Buffalo Ridge Safari Lodge in Madikwe Game Reserve. We have loved Madikwe ever since our first visit 11 years ago. It is a great location with extensive views, spacious lodges, and extremely experienced guides. The lodge is owned by a local community who are determined to make your stay memorable and enjoyable. Around the lodge we saw elephants feeding around the main deck, while klipspringers rested on the steps leading up to the game-drive vehicles. We had great close-up sightings of cheetah, elephant, lion, and so many other creatures. This was very much down to Godfrey, our guide, who looked after us so well. We thoroughly recommend Buffalo Ridge to anyone wanting a top-end experience without having to pay top-end prices.”
Want to write a review? Share tales of your travels as Colin did, on our forum.
WATCH: Here’s what happens after an elephant dies. As this film crew witnessed, elephant carcasses briefly become busy ecosystems of their own. (Viewer discretion advised.) (06:47). Click here to watch
Scientists have observed chimpanzees treating the injuries of their fellow troop mates (Photo courtesy @miller_wildlife_photography)
Cases of animals self-medicating have been widely recorded over the past few decades. Self medicating is a survival trait that chimpanzees, birds, orangutans and lemurs all share with humans. Now, scientists have observed chimpanzees treating peers for injuries – a first for the animal kingdom.
Scientists observed 19 different instances where the chimpanzees “medicated” themselves:
Members of the Rekambo chimpanzee troop in Gabon have recently been observed rubbing insects onto open wounds.
Even more astonishing, the chimpanzees not only treated their own wounds in this fashion but those of others as well.
No other animal (apart from humans, of course) has ever been observed treating the injuries of others.
Most interesting, is that this case was not just a once-off event.
One mother rubbed an insect onto her offspring’s wound, and the same behaviour was observed in two other adult chimpanzees.
It is still uncertain what kind of insects were used and whether the “insect ointment” the chimps created aided injury healing or prevented infection.
Was it the chimpanzees’ intention to treat the injuries? That remains unanswered for now but seems likely given that these celebrated primates targeted open wounds.
There are also many examples in nature of animals using the chemical properties of plants or insects for a specific purpose:
Chimpanzees have been seen swallowing bitter, unpalatable leaves of Aspilia plants, some of which are anti-helminthics (to rid their bodies of parasitic worms).
Hornbills have been observed using crushed millipedes to line the cavities and entrances of their nests, which may help to keep bacteria and fungi from flourishing in the confined place while the chicks fledge.
Lemurs have also been recorded chewing on millipedes, possibly to treat tummy troubles. The lemurs swallowed some of the unpleasant mixture and spread the remaining ointment on their genitals, anuses, and tails.
Many birds have been observed “anting” – rubbing ants over their bodies. The formic acid produced by some of these ants is thought to help soothe irritated skin and keep ectoparasites and microbes at bay.
While many cases of animals self-medicating – also known as zoopharmacognosy – are coming to light, there is still much for us to learn in this fascinating field. Have you observed these behaviours, or similar behaviours, in the wild? Let us know.
Millipedes are a popular ‘treatment’ for many animals, as they secrete noxious chemicals with antimicrobial properties
Somewhere far north in the Auob riverbed in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park of South Africa, a female cheetah wanders out of the dunes. Her eyes lock onto a springbok and she moves closer to her unsuspecting quarry. Moments later she is at full speed. The springbok sees her and runs – but it is too late. The cheetah sits on the side of the dune, panting heavily, successful in her mission to feed her family. So far, this is nothing unusual. A female cheetah hunting a springbok to provide for her growing cubs is a daily occurrence in the southern Kalahari Desert. On this occasion, however, everything is different.
Her sub-adult male cub, 15 months old, appears over the dunes. Behind him four small bundles of fur appear, hardly recognisable as cheetahs, emerging from the den to join their mother and older brother on the kill. The mother – dubbed “Lizzie” by researchers from the Kalahari Leopard Project, was born in 2016. Her mother is known to researchers as “Corinne” and is currently one of the oldest cheetahs in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.
Cheetahs are one of the most intensively studied large carnivores on the planet. But a female raising two of her own litters of different age classes at the same time is something scientists have never seen before. The first sighting of these cheetah cubs occurred in October 2021. After observing this cheetah family for some time, the Cheetahs of the Kalahari Project has been able to gain insight into this rare occurrence.
In the beginning
The story began in early 2016 when Lizzie was born. Her mother Corinne was one of the best-known cheetahs in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, and both Corinne and Lizzie had been monitored since birth by the Kalahari Leopard Project. Corinne was born in March 2011 and her mother was collared by cheetah researchers Gus and Margie Mills in 2006. Knowledge of the matrilineal bloodline of these cheetahs thus goes back four generations.
After dispersal from her mother, Lizzie became a prolific independent hunter and claimed a home range in the far north of her mother’s range. In June 2020 she had her first litter, of which one male cub – Lokesh – survived the denning phase. He grew up as a single cub and nothing out of the ordinary happened for almost a year.
Lizzie developed into a skilled hunter. Where other cheetahs have to get within 50–100m of their prey before launching an attack, it is not rare for her to start running from about 250m from her target
In May 2021 we noticed that Lizzie started marking, behaviour that is normally only displayed by females in oestrus. Multiple males ventured far out of their normal territories to visit Lizzie’s home range. When we received news of sightings of Lizzie accompanied by different males during May, we still did not expect her to get pregnant. Her 11-month-old male cub was still far from independence and cheetah females do not usually enter oestrus unless their current cubs have dispersed, are very close to dispersal age, or if all of their cubs die. But during the winter months we didn’t see or hear anything about Lizzie. We grew fearful that something had happened to her and her cub. Thankfully, they reappeared in September while hunting springbok in the riverbed. But we noticed something odd: Lizzie had suckling marks.
On 30 October 2021 our suspicions were confirmed when Lizzie finally showed her new litter of four cubs to the world. Cheetah females keep their litters hidden in a den for about eight weeks. Thereafter the mother will start to take them with her wherever she goes. Most cubs are fully weaned within three weeks after emerging from their den and they are introduced to fresh meat as soon as the denning phase is over.
From the moment her new litter emerged we monitored this special family on a daily basis and recorded their behaviour in detail. Lizzie and her extended family started moving around in their usual home range, allowing us to spend months in their presence.
Lizzie surprised observers by birthing another litter of four cubs while her older cub was still present
Navigating new relationships
This situation – an adult female with a new litter of eight-week-old cubs, accompanied by an older cub (a 15-month-old brother in this case), had never been documented by anyone in the wild before. The cubs’ relationship with their older sibling seemed fragile for the first days after their emergence from the den and Lokesh often played too rough with the little ones. We noticed the subadult male seemed caught between two worlds. He tried to hunt with his mother, but also couldn’t resist playing with his younger siblings.
The unusual family – mother, subadult Lokesh and four young siblings – kept a tight bond
Their behaviour in the next few weeks was remarkable. The subadult male started to take on the role of “surrogate mom”, and the young cubs spent more time with him. He played with them, washed them and called for them when they lagged behind. This gave Lizzie the opportunity to focus on hunting efficiently for her large family. He would still accompany his mother during hunts – spoiling quite a few of them! But whenever the two were out hunting, Lokesh would focus on the young cubs if danger emerged. On multiple occasions, jackals threatened the young cubs while Lizzie and Lokesh were hunting. She would often make a call and the subadult male would abandon the hunt and return to his younger siblings. Lizzie often left Lokesh with his younger siblings, seemingly to “babysit” them. The first month flew by and it seemed these young cubs were safe with two older cheetahs looking after them.
While older brother Lokesh took on responsibilities such as helping to hunt or “babysitting” the cubs while their mother was out hunting, he still maintained a playful relationship with the cubs. In the third image, Lizzie shares a moment of tenderness with her cubs
Disaster strikes
The young cubs were growing fast and discovering more of their mother’s home range. But moving larger distances meant more chance of running into danger. A shortage of prey and an unusually high density of cheetahs in Lizzie’s home range in January 2022 meant she had to walk up to 20km a day to find food. All four cubs made it into the new year – though one of the four was significantly smaller than the others. The first disaster struck on the night of 7 January.
Lizzie is a skilled hunter. Where other cheetahs usually need to get within 50–100m of their prey before launching a pursuit, she can hunt from wide distances. On occasion, she has even taken the chance to start running at a distance of about 250m from her prey, and been successful. But her determination to succeed in the hunt landed her in trouble that night.
Lizzie missed a hunting opportunity that afternoon and so followed a group of springbok into the twilight. After we followed her tracks the next day, it became evident that she had walked over 7km on a moonless night in pursuit of prey. I struggled to locate the family at first. But we soon spotted Lizzie coming down from the dunes, followed by a very nervous Lokesh and only three small cubs. Going back on their tracks, we found that one small set of tracks had gone missing. One of the cubs had likely been separated from the family. From tracking and circumstantial evidence we determined black-backed jackals had killed the cub after it was lost, and we later found seven jackals eating the cub’s remains.
Lizzie and her family later returned to the area where the tracks had indicated the cub had gone missing. They called for the cub incessantly for the next two days, staying in the area for some time – unusual for Lizzie. The entire family, including the subadult male, were calling for long periods of time during the days after the loss.
After that, prey became even more scarce and Lizzie would walk many kilometres a day to find the odd springbok in the riverbed. She went into the dunes to hunt steenbok on occasion but often returned unsuccessful.
On 18 January Lizzie and her family walked 10km to a waterhole to drink. Unaware of three lions sleeping nearby, Lizzie and her family walked dangerously close to them through the riverbed. A sudden thunderstorm created a dust devil of sand and visibility decreased. A lightning strike woke the lions, who then noticed the cheetah and cubs. The sandstorm created cover for the lioness and she charged the unsuspecting cheetahs. She killed one cub. Both Lizzie and Lokesh sprinted back to distract the other lions from killing more youngsters. Cheetahs are no match for any lion and the two males charged at the adult cheetahs. Lizzie and Lokesh made a narrow escape. One cub was left disoriented, calling for its mother and siblings from the riverbed. Lokesh came back from the dunes and managed to draw the cub away from danger.
In contrast to their actions when losing the first cub, the cheetah family did not remain in the area or call for the cub. They had seen the lions kill the cub and there was no doubt as to its fate.
When the cubs were a few months old, one cub was separated from the family, and observers later saw jackals eating its remains; a few weeks later the family (pictured here just before the incident) were surprised by lions; in the confusion of a sandstorm, the lioness managed to catch and kill one of the cubs
Greener pastures
After this the family’s fortune changed for the better. The two remaining cubs continued to grow, play and explore the home range. Lokesh’s bond with them stayed strong. He became a better hunter. By the end of May 2022, the family were still together. He would still play with his smaller siblings, but his behaviour towards the now older cubs became more sexual. The cubs responded with more defensive behaviour, less playful than before. The subadult male had remained with his mother for a total of 23 months.
The two young cubs are now big enough to outrun threats and are growing quickly. The Cheetahs of the Kalahari Project will keep monitoring these and other cheetahs within the southern Kalahari and hope to contribute to cheetah conservation in the wild with the knowledge we gain. One thing we know for sure is that cheetahs will never cease to amaze us!
Why is this case so special?
We at the Cheetahs of the Kalahari Project have a few years of experience working with or studying large carnivores in the wild, and we had never heard of a case in which a wild female cared simultaneously for her overlapping litters of different age groups. After consulting friends and colleagues we discovered how truly special this case was. Gus and Margie Mills who conducted the first extensive cheetah study in the southern Kalahari between 2006 and 2012, Vincent van der Merwe from the Endangered Wildlife Trust and Femke Broekhuis from the Serengeti Cheetah Project all have many years of field experience with wild cheetahs, and none of them had ever heard of a case like this. This (to our knowledge) is the first and most extensively studied case of a female cheetah with overlapping litters in natural history.
Citizen scientists contribute important data to the Cheetahs of the Kalahari Project. If you have been to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in the last ten years and have photographed cheetah there, share your pics and info with the Cheetahs of the Kalahari Project (cheetahsofkgalagadi@gmail.com). Include the location, date and any important additional info. Read more about the project here.
Chanan Weiss and his family connect with a mountain gorilla on Karisimbi Mountain, in Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda.
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Trophy hunting lions + Madagascar + Mara Champagne safari
The butterfly effect is a simplistic explanation of how a tiny movement – like a butterfly flapping its wings – can later result in a far greater effect elsewhere – like a tornado. Your African safari is a bit like that. And the more remote and off-the-beaten-track your destination is, the larger the local effect. Your holiday creates employment and sustainable livelihoods, which promotes pride, long-term thinking and substantial conservation benefits. Convince a friend to join you or follow in your footsteps and your butterfly effect will amplify. This is no bunny-hugger wishy-washy namby-pamby fairytale – it’s proven fact. And I have seen it with my own eyes – many times. Be a butterfly for Africa – create a whirlwind of safari goodness. My team are standing by for your safari enquiry.
This is a good time to remind you about the Africa Geographic manifesto – what drives teamAG and makes us do what we do
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Lion numbers have decreased by 43% throughout Africa in the past 25 years, and their range has declined by more than 90%. Trophy hunting cannot be tagged as the primary culprit for declining lion numbers, but there is little evidence to prove the wildlife conservation benefits that many supporters claim.
This week we share one of the most comprehensive overviews of the relationship between lion trophy hunting, community development and lion conservation. In our second story below, Dr. Hans Bauer, an Oxford University research fellow who has been working in the African conservation space for the past 25 years, examines how trophy hunting has delivered (or, as his findings reflect, failed to deliver) for wildlife on the continent, and highlights how local communities benefit very little from this industry. This is an important article that highlights challenges to conservation in Africa, and questions trophy hunting’s true value in habitat and wildlife preservation.
On a brighter note, we shine a light on one of the richest biodiversity hotspots in Africa, featuring tropical rainforests, azure lagoons, and white beaches. Northern Madagascar offers a wide array of weird and wonderful fauna, flora and scenery. Not to mention the opportunity to see fossas and lemurs up close! The extensive guide below is the last in our four-part Madagascar series, offering in-depth insight into travelling this magical land.
Happy travelling Africa to you all!
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
In a tiny pocket of forest in northwest Madagascar lives a very unusual lemur. It is critically endangered, and there are believed to be fewer than 1,000 individuals remaining. They look almost identical to the closely-related black lemur (Eulemur macaco) but for one striking difference…
Did you know that the blue-eyed black lemur (Eulemur flavifrons) is one of the only primate species apart from humans to have consistently blue eyes? As far as scientists can tell, there is no shared genetic basis between the blue eyes of humans and those of lemurs. Instead, it is an example of the convergent evolution of a rare phenotype on the distant branches of the primate family tree.
Just a fun fact to keep in mind while reading our first story below!
This signature Maasai Mara safari offers supreme luxury, a private vehicle, hot-air ballooning and champagne breakfasts. And your huge room has magnificent views as far as the eye can see
SPECIAL OFFER – pay 5, stay 4 – Arriving at El Karama Lodge in Kenya’s Laikipia is like walking into your own bushveld home – the privacy and authenticity evoke a sense of peace and relaxation. Enjoy activities to fill your day, or just chill at the pool after yoga and a massage. Expect locally sourced food and mouth-watering bushveld cuisine
Our East African adventure
App subscriber Chanan Weiss and family travelled to Rwanda, DRC and Tanzania’s Mafia Island with AG in June. Visiting Nyungwe Forest – one of Africa’s oldest rainforests – Chanan had the joy of coming across a troop of Angola colobus monkeys. Chanan captured this intimate moment between a colobus and its baby. The Weiss family also experienced straw-coloured fruit bats on Lake Kivu’s Napolean Island, Grauer’s gorilla in Kahuzi-Biéga National Park, and mountain gorillas in Volcanoes National Park.
“This was a long-anticipated adventure that was better than we could have imagined,” says Chanan.
Book with AG and you too can head out on an African adventure, and spend a few days on the mountainous edge of the Nyungwe Forest at dreamy forest retreat Nyungwe House.
WATCH: Why Africa needs community-led conservation: In this TED Talk, conservationist Resson Kantai Duff calls for a major shift in how conservation in Africa works, showing why the people closest to the land are the ones best fit to care for it (13:32). Click here to watch
This time we adventure to northern Madagascar, in our four-part series on this wondrous island. See the resources section at the end of this story for the other three stories in the series.
For the last 88 million years, life on Madagascar has been on its own – creating an island of evolutionary oddities and myriad diverse travel experiences. Sometimes referred to as a “Noah’s Ark” or the “eighth continent” due to its geographic isolation and high levels of endemism, the island of Madagascar is, simply put, enormous. It is approximately 587,000km2 (around two and a half times the size of the United Kingdom). A combination of ocean currents and dramatic topography has created a tapestry of different climates and habitats perfectly suited to the island’s peculiar inhabitants (or the other way round).
The island is home to over 300 recorded birds (60% of which are endemic) and 260 species of reptile – including two-thirds of the world’s chameleon species. There are over 110 species of lemurs spread throughout Madagascar’s protected areas, in a variety of shapes and sizes but all possessing a shared, wide-eyed charisma. Six of the world’s eight baobab species occur only in Madagascar. All in all, the natural history is unique, shaped by the fascinating and beautiful, isolated island habitats.
In an ideal world, a trip to Madagascar would extend over weeks to give the curious traveller every opportunity to explore the magnificent island. Realistically, however, time is usually limited and deciding where to invest one’s attention is guaranteed to create a significant traveller’s quandary. This four-part series is intended to help guide this decision.
Northern Madagascar
The island’s northernmost tip – the “tropical north” – is one of its richest biodiversity hotspots, with lush tropical rainforests and mangroves extending to azure lagoons and white, palm-fringed beaches. Here visitors will find the perfect chance to explore some of Madagascar’s whacky fauna, flora, and scenery in the national parks, before stretching out on the sand to admire the Indian Ocean, cocktail in hand.
The Diana Region of north Madagascar is home to some twenty protected areas, from national parks to “New Protected Areas” and strict nature reserves. These are scattered between picturesque cacao, coffee, and ylang-ylang plantations, while the coastline and the archipelago deliver a tropical paradise escape. From geographical wonders to endemic wildlife, northern Madagascar provides the most efficient opportunity to enjoy the best of Malagasy worlds with the added advantage of being off the main tourist route (with, perhaps, the exception of Nosy Be).
Marojejy National Park
Amber Mountain National Park
Named for the copal deposits of amber resin from the forest’s trees, Amber Mountain National Park is Madagascar’s oldest national park. It is a small (182km2) reserve that packs a significant biodiversity punch. This unique montane rainforest pocket is known for its spectacular waterfalls, green-lit forest paths and crater lakes – a verdant mountain surrounded by arid lands. The tropical oasis was formed on an isolated volcanic massif, which receives more than three times the annual rainfall than the low altitude regions. The forests are decorated by liana-draped trees and orchids, while the floor is carpeted by ferns and lined with thick moss.
Like many of Madagascar’s protected areas, Amber Mountain is home to a treasure trove of unusual wildlife, including a multitude of mammals and an abundance of quirky reptiles. Naturally, the eight lemur species (including the newly discovered and endemic Montagne d’Ambre dwarf lemur) are the park’s flagship attraction, but the forest is also home to a number of Madagascar’s captivating predators. Visitors should keep an eye out for the russet ring-tailed vontsira (ring-tailed mongoose) and the genet-like Malagasy civet. For those with sharp eyes, chameleons such as the endemic Amber Mountain dwarf chameleon are hidden in plain sight on every surface from the leaves and bark to the litter on the forest floor. Imagine the thrill of finding your own Brookesia (dwarf chameleon) in Amber Mountain’s leaf litter-strewn paths.
Like most tropical African forests, Amber Mountain offers exciting birdlife: the endemic Amber Mountain rock thrush, the white-throated rail, Madagascar blue pigeon and even the odd sighting of the endangered Madagascar fish eagle.
Clockwise from top left: Spearpoint leaf-tailed gecko; Madagascar fish eagle; Madagascar day gecko; grey-headed love birds
Ankarana Special Reserve
and the “grey tsingy”
The Malagasy word “tsingy” is a perfect fit for the landscape of Ankarana Special Reserve, situated around 100km south of Diego Suarez. It translates roughly as a land where you cannot walk barefoot (alternatively, to walk on tiptoes). This, of course, could be applied to a significant portion of Madagascar, much of Africa and all public locker rooms but is particularly well suited to the jagged forest of limestone rocks that create one of the most bizarre landscapes imaginable. Prehistoric (literally – the rocks were formed some 150-million years ago) razor-sharp rocks have kept human advancement at bay, and wildlife has flourished as a result. (A much vaster example of this geology is Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park in western Madagascar.)
The pinnacles of rock in Ankarana rise from the plateau, and a network of well-maintained trails and rope bridges link vantage points, making exploration of the park strenuous but rewarding. Below, hidden within the rock crevices and canyons, are dense sections of dry forest home to one of the highest densities of primates anywhere in the world. Ankarana is a population stronghold of the endangered crowned lemur and Sanford’s brown lemur, both found only in northern Madagascar. It is also one of the few protected areas where sightings of Madagascar’s largest mammal predator – the fossa – are relatively common.
Clockwise from top left: Golden-brown mouse lemur; Sanford’s brown lemur; crowned lemur; ring-tailed mongoose
The geography is as fascinating below ground as it is above it. The foundations of the Ankarana Reserve are riddled with caves and tunnels – remnants of a time when the area was an underwater coral reef. The reserve is steeped in the history of the Antankarana people who once sought refuge in these caves, undeterred by the presence of the enormous Madagascan free-tailed bats. Some of the caves remain sacred and are out of bounds for visitors because of local beliefs and taboos. Even more bizarrely, some of these watery channels can only be explored at certain times of the year (November to April) because they are otherwise inhabited by Nile crocodiles! Though the chances of encountering a crocodile are slim, the fact that these creatures have adapted to life in the gloom of a cave for most of the year is astonishing. Though considerably smaller than the crocodiles, massive Oustalet’s, panther chameleons and superbly camouflaged leaf-tailed geckos abound in Ankarana.
Red Tsingy
Between Ankarana and the main city of Antsiranana (previously Diégo-Suarez), a much smaller tsingy-like region exists, referred to as the “Tsingy Rouge”. Here the scarlet sands have eroded to make crimson spires of dried silt. Unlike the uncompromising solidity of the grey tsingy, the Red Tsingy is fragile, and visitors are now prohibited from standing on or among the stalagmites.
The Nosy Be Archipelago
After the rigours of enthralling but rough-and-ready exploration, the final stop in any tour of northern Madagascar must be a visit to one of the region’s pristine coastlines where you can laze on the beach and maybe be lucky enough to revel in the sight of a white-tailed tropicbird gliding over the coastline. Visitors can choose to stop off at the region’s capital – Antsiranana – for a less exorbitantly priced beach holiday or retreat to the seclusion of one of the offshore islands.
Nosy Be translates as “big island” and is one of Madagascar’s most popular tourist destinations. Here the luscious scents of cinnamon, vanilla, frangipani, and ylang-ylang plantations infuse the air, creating an olfactory extravaganza – hence the nickname “perfume island”. Nosy Be is a tropical paradise for beach-lovers, with warm clear waters, coral reefs, and water sports like kite surfing and scuba diving. The thrill of sighting a whale shark off the beaches is also a highlight. Away from the white sands, the Lokobe Strict Reserve is one of the best places in Madagascar to see the endangered, gremlin-like black lemurs.
Nosy Be is also the gateway to some smaller and often uninhabited islands. You might share a reef off Nosy Tanikly with a pod of dolphins, enjoy a beach picnic on the isthmus of Nosy Iranja. Kayaking in the silent dawn around Nosy Sakatia might thrill you with the sound of a leatherback turtle breaking the surface to breathe. While a sunset from Tsara Komba, sunkissed, salty-lipped and holding a Kumquat Rhum Arrange cocktail in hand is the perfect way to celebrate a day well spent.
Stunning beaches, oceans and hospitality of northern Madagascar
The ins and outs of exploring Madagascar
Madagascar’s tropical climate is typically enjoyable all year round, though the wet season runs from November to March, usually with minimal winds. February carries the highest risk of fierce tropical cyclones. The cooler dry season from April until October alleviates the worst of the oppressive heat, particularly when hiking on the islands or through Ankarana Special Reserve. The winds pick up at the beaches, making it the ideal time for kite surfing enthusiasts but less pleasant for those who do not appreciate being stung by grains of sand.
There are plenty of budget and camping opportunities in or near all of the destinations mentioned above. It is advisable to travel in Madagascar with a reputable company, but it is possible to hire a car to drive between the various attractions. However, the roads are bad, particularly during the wet season, and a 4 x 4 is essential. That said, road travel is fascinating and often accompanied by the glorious scent of roadside-roasted cashew nuts.
Coquerel’s sifaka, native to northwest Madagascar
Final thoughts
Northern Madagascar is a fantastical land – a natural evolutionary playground and a human kaleidoscope of cultural influences. Remarkable, offbeat, and enticing, this magical island offers an intoxicating combination of unique wildlife viewing and magnificent scenery. There is far more to Madagascar than our four-part series could ever hope to convey, but there is no question that it is a country with something to offer everyone. Our travel consultants are always on standby to help you plan the Madagascan holiday of your dreams.
Want to go on safari to Northern Madagascar? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.
Ken Behrens is a birder, naturalist, consultant, guide, and photographer, who is based in Madagascar. He is the co-author of several books, including Wildlife of Madagascar. His work can be seen at ken-behrens.com
By Hans Bauer, Research fellow: Northern Lion Conservation, University of Oxford. Originally published by The Conversation
Trophy hunting will not save Africa’s lions – so the UK ban on imports is a positive step for wildlife conservation. Over the past 25 years, I have spent a lot of time counting lions as part of my job. Only last month, I spent three hours with two males – possibly brothers – right next to my car in Maze National Park, Ethiopia. Lions come in the night, very quietly. Despite weighing well over 150kg, you do not hear their footsteps. What you hear is their breathing, the turbo of the killing machine.
Had I turned on a light immediately, they would have run away. These lions are skittish, even if they face no threat from trophy hunters in Africa’s national parks. So we spend half an hour in the pitch dark before I finally switch on a small red light to count the eye reflections. Another pause, then a bigger red light enables us to see their sex and age.
We get lucky: with the big spotlight they move to a discrete distance, but we still get to watch them for an hour before retiring to our tents a few hundred metres away. The lions have long lost interest in us but the ranger makes a campfire which smoulders all night, just to be safe. This park has no outposts, no visitors and no emergency services, so we need to stay out of trouble.
Maybe you have counted lions in a zoo or wildlife park: “I see three – no wait, there’s a tip of another tail and a flickering ear, so four, or five?” People on safari in popular destinations where lions are habituated to cars may have had the same experience. In the wilderness, however, lions are hard to spot – across much of their range you don’t see them very often at all, especially during the day.
I have spent countless nights sitting on top of my vehicle, playing buffalo or warthog cries with a megaphone, trying to catch a glimpse of lions attracted by these sounds. I have walked for days to find footprints or put up automated camera traps. For every day of fieldwork there is a day of grant writing before and a day of reporting afterwards – but yes, it is a wonderful job.
I once found lions in a part of Ethiopia where they had not been documented and added a blob on the distribution map. Unfortunately, over the last 25 years, it has been much more common to reduce or delete entries from our African Lion Database.
My research shows that during this time, lion numbers have decreased by 43% throughout Africa, and that their range has declined by more than 90%. There are now roughly 25,000 lions in 60 separate population groups, half of which consist of less than 100 lions. Their existence is particularly threatened across West, Central and East Africa.
Lion range throughout Africa has declined by more than 90%
I first went to Cameroon in 1992 to do my Master’s project in Waza National Park, and have worked in various parts of Africa ever since (I currently live in Mali). My main research focus with WildCRU – Europe’s first university-based conservation research unit – is the mitigation of human-lion conflicts. I study the difficult balance between people’s livelihoods and the conservation of biodiversity, working close-up at village level but also at national and international perspectives.
This led to me being asked to give evidence to the UK’s All-Party Parliamentary Group (APPG) on Banning Trophy Hunting, which on 29 June 2022 presented its report on the impacts of trophy hunting to the environment secretary, George Eustice. This follows the UK government’s announcement in December 2021 that it would ban the importing of body parts of 7,000 species* including lions, rhinos, elephants and polar bears. On average, roughly ten lion “trophies” are imported into the UK each year, among many other threatened species.
There are many ways to look at this issue, and the debate usually ends up in a deadlock between utilitarians and moralists. I won’t hide my sympathy for the latter – I work with organisations such as the Born Free Foundation. But after a week in the field living on pasta and tinned tomato sauce, I will eat bushmeat in a village with no alternatives if it has been harvested legally and sustainably.
The future of trophy hunting in Africa was not on the table during the APPG’s discussions about a UK import ban – and if it was, it would be for African scientists to advise their governments of the pros and cons. In my view, however, the evidence is clear that trophy hunting has not delivered for wildlife in most parts of Africa, and that local communities benefit next to nothing from its continued practice.
How trophy hunting works
Trophy hunting is a controversial topic in conservation circles. In some cases, the fact that lions are doing better in parts of southern Africa has – wrongly, in my view – been attributed to it. But in itself, trophy hunting is not the lions’ biggest threat either; my research shows that more are killed when they attack livestock, or perish when their habitat and prey is diminished by agricultural encroachment or poaching.
In Africa, trophy hunting’s popularity grew during colonial times when all sorts of slain animals were sent back to Europe. Nowadays, antelopes are this industry’s most hunted animals – but the most prestigious targets remain the “big five”: lion, leopard, elephant, rhinoceros and buffalo.
Hunting clients may pay up to £100,000 to hunt a lion
A client might pay a local entrepreneur or hunting guide anywhere between £10,000 and £100,000 for a “bag” that includes a lion – and the super-rich may pay (or donate) even more. It’s a lot of money for a holiday, and trophy hunting mostly attracts rich, white, middle-aged men from western countries.
Hunting guides are businessmen (almost all are male). They generally lease government land that has been designated for conservation through “sustainable use”. Known as trophy hunting “blocks”, these areas vary widely (anywhere between 500km² and 5,000km²) and each has annual quotas for the amounts of different species that may be shot by trophy hunters.
In theory, this restricts the killings to a level the population can sustain. Hunting guides then manage their blocks to maintain these wildlife numbers, including organising anti-poaching patrols. The guides employ staff, pay the land lease, trophy fees and a bunch of other costs – including to a taxidermist and export company to deliver the skin and skull to their client after the kill. It is a big industry that claims to be good for both wildlife and local people, but these guides are not charity workers; they maximise their benefits and minimise their costs.
Trophy hunting also does not focus (as is sometimes suggested) on killing off the older, weaker animals in any block. Wildlife populations grow fastest when their densities are low, so that food and aggression are not limiting factors. In order to minimise any such competition – and to offer the biggest trophies – trophy hunts will target healthy animals, not just the old and infirm.
Lions, lion hunting and livestock
The methodology used for setting trophy hunting quotas varies from country to country. Cameroon, for example, has traditionally had very high quotas for lions, but these were not based on scientific rigour. In 2015 we published our first survey results based on observations done by three teams tracking lions over a vast range.
Each team drove for thousands of kilometres across Cameroon, very slowly, always with two trackers stationed on the bonnet of each 4×4 looking for footprints. We got stuck, camped, waited for trophy hunters to depart before being allowed into a particular area, struggled to get diesel, tolerated the heat and the tsetse flies – it was all part of our daily routine following the lions.
Ultimately, we counted 250 lions, 316 leopards and 1,376 spotted hyenas. Cameroon does not offer a trophy hunting quota for leopards, and hyenas are not popular with hunters – but as a result of our count, the country’s annual lion quota was reduced from 30 to ten. Today this quota is still applied throughout northern Cameroon’s Bénoué ecosystem, which has 32 trophy hunting blocks in between its three national parks.
Of these 32 blocks, however, more than ten no longer have any resident lions. And when the blocks lose their lions, this also threatens those living in the national parks – as there is a big difference between having 250 lions spread across 30,000km² of contiguous habitat, or three isolated populations of 50 in parks of 3,000km² each.
When I visited Cameroon again in 2021, I observed cattle everywhere – which is not a good combination with lions. Many of these herds had come from neighbouring countries – pastoralists running from the threat of terrorists in Mali and Niger. As a result, the pressure on these areas, and those who manage them, is intense. It is hard enough to integrate local communities in conservation work, much harder with nomadic people.
Whenever livestock grazes in an area with lions, you inevitably get some depredation. Lions will kill some livestock and, in retaliation, people will kill some lions. This is perhaps the biggest challenge in lion conservation, and all the programmes I know are working to mitigate it. There are tools available to reduce the damage, from flashlights and watchdogs to mobile enclosures and more. But this only works if you know the people living there and can collaborate towards a common goal – not if you have different people passing through every time.
In fact, the pastoralists I have met are usually quite tolerant – they like lions. A herder in Cameroon once told me: “If a lion attacks one cow this year, I will know that God has not forgotten me.” Another in Ethiopia said: “We do not think lions take our livestock to hurt us. As a result, we do not refer to it as an ‘attack’ or ‘killing’ – they are taking what they need.”
Nonetheless, some people – pastoralists and others – inevitably pay a high price for co-existing with lions, and they would prefer them in someone else’s backyard.
I have collared lions in several countries. I know the thrill of a hunt, but a dart gun does not kill – and the information you get from a lion’s collar is amazing. In Waza National Park, I followed lions this way and some behaved very well – but the worst offender killed a hundred-thousand dollars’ worth of cattle in our time there. The park’s warden asked me: “How long do you think the local people will pay this price for lion conservation?”
Almost all lion trophy hunting zones in Africa are part of larger ecosystems that include national parks, and in most cases the hunt quotas are based on the entire population of lions, including those living in the parks. An argument used by trophy hunters is that they are protecting extra land with extra lions – but it’s not that simple.
Declines in lion populations have been observed in some countries in East, Central and West Africa where lion hunting is legal
While trophy hunting blocks do add lions and extra habitat, they can still become a drain on the overall population when lions move out of the parks into emptied territories within the blocks. These so-called “source-sink dynamics” became a global news story in July 2015 because of Cecil, the black-maned lion that my WildCRU colleagues were satellite-tracking when he was killed by an American trophy hunter.
Cecil had been lured from Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe and was shot by Walter Palmer, a dentist from the Minneapolis area. It was actually quite a routine occurrence, but the death of Cecil the Lion created a worldwide media storm – feeding into the UK’s proposal for a ban on trophy hunt imports.
The lion hunting model starts to unravel
Throughout most of Africa, lion numbers are declining. While trophy hunting is far from the only reason for this, the evidence clearly shows it has failed in its promise to provide a significant boost to wildlife conservation. I once thought it might offer benefits too, but studying its impacts and costs has taught me otherwise.
Trophy hunting is allowed in countries throughout East, Central and West Africa including Burkina Faso, Benin, Central African Republic, Cameroon, Ethiopia, Sudan and the Congo – and in all these countries, lion declines have been particularly steep. The Central African Republic is the most extreme example: almost half the country was designated as hunting blocks, yet wildlife there has all but disappeared. In 2012, the late researcher and conservationist Philippe Bouchépublished Game Over! – the title said it all.
Trophy hunting has proved increasingly vulnerable to, on one hand, rising management costs due to the increased threats of agricultural encroachment and poaching (of both lions and their prey), and on the other, reduced income from smaller wildlife populations.
Two rules-of-thumb are widely used: a sustainable annual “harvest” is one lion per 2,000km², and the annual management of a trophy hunt block costs around US$1,000 per km². Together, they suggest it costs around two million dollars to “produce a lion”. These numbers vary hugely between areas and, of course, trophy hunters shoot other species at the same time, but exceptional conditions are needed for the hunt companies to break even. At the same time, local communities living with wildlife are, understandably, demanding their fair share. The model starts to unravel and fall apart.
In Zambia and Tanzania, for example, 40% and 72% respectively of trophy hunting areas have been abandoned. Management costs are rising and private operators do not find it profitable anymore, except in a handful of the best areas. This is not due to any outright ban but rather, the inability to balance costs and benefits.
Across Africa, in the vast majority of cases, trophy hunting has not delivered more lions – whether because of financial imbalances, increased terrorism, land mismanagement or increased livestock mobility (or a combination of these factors). This failure to deliver undermines the already contested justification for the continued killing of lions by trophy hunters. And as the decline continues, many communities stand to lose a wildlife heritage that could, under a different approach to conservation, provide them with employment and stability.
Success stories?
Namibia and Botswana in southern Africa are often cited as models for conservation, which implies their experience could be replicated elsewhere. Trophy hunting has been presented as a success factor in these countries. But in reality, how instructive are the experiences of two large countries with a combined population of less than 5 million people for the other billion-plus Africans living in more densely populated areas?
Certainly, these two countries have a lot of wildlife – but is this due to the effects of trophy hunting, or to very low human population densities, diversified tourism industries and well-resourced wildlife institutions? In Botswana, trophy hunting was banned from 2014 to 2020, but despite abundant polemicising from both pro- and anti-hunting advocacy groups, I’m not aware of any evidence of a significant impact on its national lion and elephant numbers. In short, Botswana’s conservation efforts will succeed with or without trophy hunting.
While southern Africa has, in general, been quite successful in keeping its wildlife species stable, this is also not always through natural processes. There has been a lot of habitat engineering and captive breeding, so that many of the animals you find in confined nature reserves are, in fact, bred and auctioned.
In South Africa, for example, around 8,000 lions live in captivity for the benefit of a small number of rich owners, having been bred like livestock. This model does nothing to improve habitat or biodiversity levels, nor does it support rural socio-economic development. The country’s overall trophy hunting quota is around five wild lions and 500 captive lions each year, and while the US banned trophy imports from South Africa in 2016, most imported lion trophies into the UK have been killed there.
An estimated 8,000 lions are kept in captivity in South Africa
Another issue for Africa as a whole is that biologists have flocked to southern Africa’s conservation hotspots such as the Okavango Delta in Botswana and Kruger National Park in South Africa, which possess good infrastructure and lots of wildlife. As a result, there is an over-representation of people who have worked there among Africa’s community of conservation science, advocacy and practice. Many may never have worked outside southern Africa, and may not be aware of what is happening in the rest of the continent.
I’m not denying that some countries have been successful in their conservation efforts, and that trophy hunting has, in isolated cases, been part of that success. But the “if it pays, it stays” approach which seems to underpin many arguments in favour of trophy hunting has much more often led to the loss of natural ecosystems. This decay affects the vast majority of lion ranges, and an even greater majority of African citizens.
The banning of trophy hunt imports in the UK and elsewhere can, I believe, help to reduce or even reverse this decline. The UK ban is supported by a large majority of British voters. France, the Netherlands and Australia have already banned lion trophy imports, and the EU and US have restricted their imports. Since most clients want their trophy, that means significantly fewer potential clients overall, indirectly affecting Africa’s policy options.
The way forward
Throughout the continent, most policymakers stick to the prevailing narrative that trophy hunting supports conservation. In this way, a small white elite continues to have exclusive access to conservation areas that are off-limits for the average citizen to visit, or for public agencies to invest in. Trophy hunting is getting in the way of much-needed innovation and investment.
I agree with trophy hunters that the land they use is important habitat for lions and their prey. No one wants these areas to spiral down. However, the current situation feels like that famous frog in boiling water story – countries in Africa are afraid to jump out until they no longer can.
The largest and most important conservation area in West Africa is the 25,000km² W-Arly-Pendjari (WAP) region, on the boundary between Benin, Burkina Faso and Niger. With around 400 lions, it is the only three-digit lion population in West Africa, and it also possesses the largest West African populations of elephant and buffalo.
Half of WAP’s land is managed for trophy hunting. Yet over 20 years, these blocks have contributed less than 1% of the region’s total conservation budget. Much of the area is now increasingly threatened by terrorist incursions and large parts have been abandoned, including the hunting blocks.
In Benin, however, the situation is changing. Lion trophy hunting has been ditched and a trust fund established that promises to fund the country’s conservation activities in perpetuity. While mainly funded by Benin and German government agencies, the fund has an independent international structure and several other donors have contributed. The park’s management, now delegated to a non-profit organisation, is striving to improve local livelihoods by generating employment and offering support for community initiatives that do not harm the local wildlife.
Of course, we should not expect wildlife to fix poverty and instability where 50 years of development work have been unsuccessful. But I visit Benin every year and where I used to find a dozen friendly but unorganised staff, I now see hundreds of local people trained, employed and proud. In the past, some children might have gone to school reluctant to learn things they would not need as subsistence farmers. After visiting the park, however, I see signs that they want to learn skills and compete for career options their parents did not have.
Another glimpse of a better future can be seen in Akagera National Park, Rwanda, which was completely depleted in the 1980s and 1990s. Rwanda is the only country in Africa with a population density higher than India’s. It is a country facing a huge number of challenges, yet Akagera is a conservation success story. Following an initial investment in the area’s recovery, it is now breaking even through ecotourism with primarily Rwandan visitors. While this cannot be expected to work everywhere, it has worked in this most unlikely of places.
The true cost of saving African lions, and their prey and habitats, is estimated to be around US$ 1 billion per year. With such funding, Africa could quadruple its lion numbers up to 100,000 without creating any new protected areas. At the moment, lions exist at only about a quarter of their ranges’ full capacities. Funding and community engagement are both critical to increasing this figure.
Ultimately, international solidarity is a much more substantial, and sustainable, source of funding than trophy hunting. Our approach to the extinction crisis should be similar to the one for climate: biodiversity justice as well as climate justice. The 2021 COP26 climate summit in Glasgow discussed the proposed annual fund of US$100 billion to help less wealthy nations adapt to climate change and mitigate further rises in temperature. A similar fund for supporting global biodiversity will be proposed at the COP15 summit in Montreal in December 2023. A billion dollars for Africa’s lions and other wildlife may sound unrealistic, but in the arena of international policy, it should not really be a problem.
African nations are sovereign, and hold the key to the future of the lion. Some may be keen to retain trophy hunting – but they know that demand is shrinking as UK politicians are the latest to respond to the concerns of their constituents.
Above all, the trophy hunting debate is divisive, draining energy from conservationists in Africa and around the world who agree on most other issues. Now is surely the time to focus our efforts on far better alternatives for the conservation of lions and other endangered species.
Lions currently exist at only about a quarter of their ranges’ full capacities
Remember those two lions in Maze National Park? They are part of a small population which has the park as its core area, but which roam the entire landscape in that part of southern Ethiopia. Sometimes a few lions make it across to the next park for some welcome genetic exchange. Maze’s head warden has lots of rangers to assist in monitoring them, but only one motorbike. There is no hotel for hours around, no fuel station, no media. He does not need trophy hunters, he needs a car.
* Ed’s note: While this figure has been retrieved from the official announcement by the UK government, the validity of the number “7,000” has been brought into question by researchers, who claim only 73 different species have been imported into Britain in the past 40 years.
Resources
Lion hunting sustainability in Africa has been extensively investigated by pragmatic experts desperate to conserve our remaining wild lions – read more here.
Dr Craig Packer, known for his research on lions in Tanzania, has been calling on the lion hunting industry and government departments to adopt a transparent, scientifically-based strategy to ensure the sustainability of lion populations. Read our interview with Dr Packer here.
There is much debate about the impact of Kruger’s increasing elephant population on trees – especially knobthorn and marula. Often the discussions degenerate to hardliners calling for elephants to be culled in large numbers to protect trees.
Did you know that impalas destroy countless tree saplings? And that there is a growing body of evidence relating to a complex relationship between elephants, fire and climate change regarding treefall rates and bush encroachment?
Decision-makers have realised that the provision of artificial dams and waterholes is a significant reason for the ‘elephant problem’. You see, elephants remain near these water sources during the dry months and denude the nearby trees – instead of roaming far and wide as they would usually do. The removal of these manmade water sources is ongoing in the Kruger National Park. However, this same strategy is not being pursued in the contiguous private game reserves (the Greater Kruger) – probably because the negative impact on the tourism experience would be significant. I have seen some dams in the private reserves being renovated and, in the process, made larger. Hmmmmm …
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Think of the quintessential African safari and your mind will surely conjure images of the baobab-dotted savannahs of Kenya. You’ll picture wildebeest herds spread across the Maasai Mara, and elephants trundling the plains below Mt Kilimanjaro. But there is a resilient protected area in the country that doesn’t always get the attention it deserves. Meru National Park is a vital wilderness area in Kenya. As home to arguably one of the most famous lions in history – Elsa of Born Free fame – Meru captures the nostalgia of the true African safari. Check out our first story below for all the insights you need to visit this magnificent piece of the continent.
This week we’re also delving into a complex wildlife management issue. Pongola Game Reserve (PGR) in northern KwaZulu-Natal recently announced it would no longer be keeping elephants on its property. We have given PGR General Manager Malcolm Thomson the platform to explain the reserve’s decision. Faced with rapidly growing elephant populations and many restrictions on the management of these numbers, Malcolm explains it is no longer practical, viable or economically sustainable for PGR to host elephants. This is an important story in highlighting the management challenges elephants pose for landowners. Read about these challenges below.
Happy celebrating Africa to you all!
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Did you know that in a secret valley in the Maasai Mara (the Mara Triangle, to be exact), there is a forsaken Volkswagen bus? It has been there for over thirty years, abandoned after a breakdown and reclaimed by nature to be used as a jackal den. Hidden within is a geocache (for those not in the know, geocaching is a global, GPS-based treasure hunt).
Have you ever seen the Mara Triangle VW? What are some of the best-kept historical secrets of Africa’s wild spaces? Download our app and share your comments below!
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“We are sincerely thankful for the donation received from Africa Geographic app subscribers. With the donation, we’ve been able to continue our annual commitment to improving the breeding success of the endangered Cape vultures in Botswana. In 2018, research findings showed that bone deformities in Cape vulture chicks were preventing chicks from flying, and in some cases causing fatalities. This inspired a new project – providing bone fragments to supplement the vultures’ diet to improve eggshell structure as well as strong bone development. The donations received from AG subscribers helped us provide this much-needed supplementation.”
Photo: Cape vultures feeding on bone fragments, photographed by KRC’s camera traps (left), and a Cape vulture pictured in flight (right).
WATCH: The warthogs and mongooses of Mweya, Uganda, have developed a very interesting symbiotic relationship. Watch to see a warthog take a trip to the mongoose spa (01:53). Click here to watch
With unearthly stands of gaunt doum palms, sprawling grasslands, twisting riverine forests, and swamps populated by abundant wildlife, Meru National Park is perhaps Kenya’s best-kept (or maybe forgotten) safari secret. Exploring this national park is less about ticking off a checklist or rushing to the next sighting, and more about marvelling at the scale of this unspoilt wilderness free from the crowds of the more popular Kenyan safari circuits.
There is no doubt that had Joy Adamson still been alive today to witness the miraculous recovery of Meru National Park, she would have been delighted. Today, the park has been restored to its former glory – a magnificent chunk of wilderness central to one of Kenya’s largest protected areas.
Meru National Park and the Meru Conservation Area
Meru National Park occupies 870km² (870,000 hectares) of central Kenya, some 300km from the capital city Nairobi and offering views of snow-capped Mount Kenya on the distant western horizon. The park forms a vital part of the much larger Meru Conservation Area, which centres around the Tana River system and protects nearly 5,000km² (five million hectares). It covers habitats that range from lush green vegetation on rich volcanic soils to semi-arid scrublands and open plains. In addition to the Meru National Park, the complex of protected areas includes Bisanadi, Rahole and Mwingi (formerly Kitui North) National Reserves and the massive Kora National Park. The result is one of Kenya’s most extensive protected spaces, second only to the Tsavo ecosystem in size.
Meru National Park
807km2 (87,000 hectares)
Kora National Park
1,787km2 (178,700 hectares)
Bisanadi National Reserve
606km2 (60,600 hectares)
Mwingi National Reserve
745 km2 (74,500 hectares)
Rahole National Reserve
870km2 (87,000 hectares)
The Tana River that marks Meru National Park’s southern boundary is Kenya’s longest river, flowing from the Aberdare Mountain Range and fed by springs from Mount Kenya, before winding a sinuous path to the Indian Ocean. The many permanent rivers that flow through Meru, including the major Rojerwero and Ura Rivers, are part of the Tana River basin and define the landscape of the park. These waterways are fed by springs on the Nyambeni Mountains and flow in parallel, creating the impression that the park is made up of a series of islands. Beneath a thick fringe of riverine forest, hippos and crocodiles lurk in the dark waters.
Many permanent rivers that flow through Meru form part of the Tana River basin
The wilderness that inspired Born Free
Like many of Africa’s protected areas, Meru’s story is one of triumphs and tragedies. The park gained international renown during the 1960s when the adventures of George and Joy Adamson and their hand-raised lioness Elsa made first literary and then cinematic history. The Adamsons raised Elsa from a cub, and Joy documented their experiences in a series of novels, the Born Free series. Elsa was eventually released into Meru National Park to live wild, and her final resting place is marked by a small gravesite on the park’s southern boundary. The park’s popularity skyrocketed when the eponymous film was produced, and visitors flocked to explore the famous setting.
Tragedy struck during the 1980s as poaching and unrest tore through much of Kenya. Both Joy and George were murdered in separate incidents, and the region’s wildlife was decimated. The park fell into disrepair, and the flood of tourists slowed to a trickle before drying up almost entirely. Hope came some 20 years later when concerted conservation work by the Kenyan Wildlife Service, the French Development Agency and the International Fund for Animal Welfare set in motion the painstaking process of returning the park to its former glory. The infrastructure was repaired with a substantial cash donation, and security and anti-poaching measures were put in place.
Meru’s vistas are characterised by lush green vegetation on rich volcanic soils, featuring semi-arid scrublands and open plains
For the birds, and the Big 5
Today, the park is one of the country’s best maintained, but, more importantly, the wildlife and ecosystem have bounced back. Relocations of various species bolstered remaining populations, and Big 5 sightings are increasingly common (though not guaranteed). Elephant numbers have grown from fewer than 210 at the height of the poaching to over 670 at present. The region is also considered a Lion Conservation Unit by the IUCN. Though the long grasses in some areas can make predator spotting challenging, lions, cheetahs, and leopards are all present in healthy numbers, and encounters are even more special because they are seldom shared with anyone else.
The park’s reintroduced rhinos – black and white – are restricted to a smaller, fenced sanctuary where they can be best protected. However, this does little to detract from the wildness of the experience – the 84km² (8,400 hectares) enclosure section is perfectly sized to ensure that eager tourists have to work for their sightings!
Iconic animals aside, the many varied habitats of Meru are made all the more unique by the disparate rainfall levels across the park. This ensures a spectacular variety of fauna and flora, from moist savanna to the more arid specialists. Large herds of buffalos, impalas and zebras trudge through the swamps and feed alongside the rivers, and the sharp whistles of alarmed Bohor reedbucks hint at their presence in the reeds. The stark geometric patterns of reticulated giraffes tower over the woodlands. Lesser kudus, gerenuks, common beisa oryx, Grévy’s zebras and Somali ostriches prefer the drier parts of the park, while the tiny Günther’s and Kirk’s dik-diks are ubiquitous throughout.
The same diversity of habitats supporting Meru’s assortment of mammal species makes the park exceptionally attractive to birding enthusiasts. Over 400 species have been recorded here, with everything from wetland birds to grass and woodland specials. Pel’s fishing owls lurk beneath the canopies of the dense river trees, and recent sightings of threatened Hinde’s babblers in the park had birders aflutter. Other birds of particular interest include African finfoots, red-necked falcons, three-banded coursers, Somali bee-eaters, golden palm weavers, Boran cisticolas and black-billed wood hoopoes.
Big 5 sightings are abundant; keep an eye out for regulars such as hyenas; the park is a birding haven featuring an abundance of species, including grey crowned cranes and white-throated bee-eaters; rhinos are protected in a safe sanctuary within the park (some photos courtesy Rudolf Hug)
Explore & Stay
Want to go on safari to Meru? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.
Though the safari experience in Meru matches, if not outstrips, that of many of Kenya’s more popular safari destinations, visitor numbers to the park have remained low. The result is an extraordinary sense of true wilderness that the Kenyan Wildlife Service describes as “brilliant on a magnificent scale”. From the vantage point of one of the many rocky outcrops, travellers can look out across the diverse scenery without another person in sight.
Experience true wilderness in Meru; for a luxury experience, many boutique lodges are perfectly positioned with views of scenic parts of the park; the Tana River is forced through a narrow rock valley at Adamson Falls; fly fishing and camping is offered just outside the national park
The park is easily accessible via the tar road from Nairobi or direct flight to an airstrip. There are several well-maintained public campsites for those looking to explore on a budget. The roads are generally in exceptional condition, and navigating the park is made simple by sign-posted junctions.
Though Meru is open throughout the year, the best wildlife viewing occurs during the long dry season from June until September. Like much of East Africa, the park experiences two rainy seasons: the long rains from March until May and the short rains in October and November. The long grasses during the rainy season can make it difficult to see animals, and elephants often move out of the park along ancient migratory paths to the north. Given its Equatorial position, daytime temperatures vary little throughout the year, and the days in Meru are usually hot and often dry.
Elsa’s Kopje offers panoramic views over the Meru plains
There are several other activities in and around the park for those with spare time (or for whom the excitement of daily game drives has palled). A trip to Adamson Falls, where the Tana River is forced through a narrow rock valley, is a popular attraction. Walking safaris offer the perfect opportunity to take in the scenery at a more sedate pace.
Further afield, outside the confines of the park, riverboat tours of the Tana River, fly camping, fishing and horse- and camelback safaris are all options for more intrepid tourists.
For those looking for a more luxurious experience, several tiny boutique lodges and camps in and around the park are perfectly positioned in some of the most scenic parts of Meru. The quiet and intimate arrangement makes Meru a perfect destination for families with children.
Several boutique lodges and camps in and around Meru offer scenic views, and comfortable accommodation from which to explore this wild safari destination
A land triumphantly reborn
It is common for travel articles on Meru (and many other parts of Africa) to describe the park as “unspoilt”. This is an understandably attractive representation – one which recreates the ‘blue chip’ documentary feeling of a vast wilderness untouched by human influence. But Meru is not untouched or unspoilt and to describe it as such is to understate the effort that has gone into undoing the damage of history.
Instead, Meru National Park is an extraordinary expanse of vital Kenyan wilderness, restored and resilient. And in the process, it has returned once again to a safe and immersive safari destination – a land reborn.
An elephant photographed in Pongola Game Reserve during a lengthy period of drought
EDITOR’S COMMENT: Pongola Game Reserve in northern KwaZulu-Natal is home to an impressive array of wildlife, including four of the Big Five (excluding lion), hippopotamus and crocodile. The reserve (and in particular, one of its main landowners, the Karel Landman Trust) recently broke the news that it would no longer be keeping elephants on its property. In this opinion editorial, the general manager for Pongola Game Reserve, Malcolm Thomson, explains the management challenges that led the KLT to this decision. Africa Geographic has provided the reserve with the platform to lay these issues out on the table from the perspective of private landowners as a case study for how these practicalities play out on the ground. Views are the author’s own. One thing is clear: there are no easy answers when it comes to managing elephant populations in small reserves and finding humane and practical solutions to real problems.
Update 20 January 2023: There has been an increase in the number of human-wildlife conflict incidents on the eastern shores of Jozini Dam in recent months, with a reported 69 elephants roaming the dam’s shores after escaping Pongola Game Reserve East into Phongola Nature Reserve. According to the reports, at least 25 elephants have been killed in poaching incidents related to this conflict. In an incident on January 11th, tourists on a cruise boat on Jozini Dam were forced to take cover as poachers were firing shots nearby. Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife announced it will be engaging with the PGRE to translocate the elephants back onto the PGRE property or into a suitable protected area as early as March//April 2023. Ezemvelo said it had also engaged with the local community to discuss the recent incidents of human-wildlife conflict.
By Malcolm Thomson – General Manager: Pongola Game Reserve
The current situation regarding elephant management and maintenance of elephants on private property in South Africa has led to many private landowners who have elephants on their property having to rethink their positions on whether to keep them there. Many reserves are not dependent on the tourism value of these elephants. Current legislation, and the national norms and standards regarding their management, place so many restrictions on elephant management that, for many, it is no longer practical, viable or economically sustainable to host elephants.
Many years ago, when legislation in South Africa changed to allow private landowners to own the wildlife on their property, wildlife numbers increased substantially due to the establishment of many private game reserves and because wildlife had value. It became viable to maintain and manage wildlife on a sustainable-use basis (through both consumptive and non-consumptive utilisation). This benefited wildlife to such an extent that more land is conserved on private property in South Africa today than in state-owned reserves. Conservation can be defined as “the wise, sustainable utilisation of our natural resources”. Elephants are just one species of many that private landowners manage towards the goal of wise, sustainable utilisation.
The current restrictions on elephant management are set to reverse the above gains made in private wildlife management. Elephants will soon begin to disappear off private property as they no longer have any benefit to the private landowners, who are prevented from maintaining a viable and productive conservation business. If the current situation continues, one will probably only find elephants in state parks and a small number of private game reserves in the future.
Pongola’s position
Pongola Game Reserve has been in operation for nearly 50 years. The PGR’s (namely the Karel Landman Trust’s) revenue streams come from various sources. These include accommodation, ecotourism activities as well as consumptive utilisation (editor’s note: ‘consumptive wildlife utilisation’ in the wildlife industry refers to hunting, harvesting for the commercial sale of meat, local consumption, and the capturing and selling of live wildlife). We are dependent on our wildlife business to survive financially.
We can’t afford to subsidise species with utilisation restrictions, especially if they also destroy habitats that other species depend on. Elephants are major habitat changers and, if not managed in balance with the other species in a reserve, may degrade that habitat. This is happening in many of the habitats where elephants are present.
It is hard to argue that elephant populations in South Africa are in crisis, as many try to. Most elephant populations in South Africa substantially exceed the carrying capacities of the properties on which they occur. This is directly due to the legislative management restriction imposed by the government. The only crisis is that there are far too many elephants and nowhere for them to go.
Elephants at the water’s edge in Pongola Game Reserve
In our case, Pongola Game Reserve was sold the vision of creating a transfrontier park (across South Africa and Eswatini) by the state. This has never materialised. We introduced elephants in 1997 as part of the transfrontier park vision. At the time, there were no restrictions placed on elephant management and they were managed in the same way as we manage all our other species, which is as it should be. Restrictions were only placed on their management in 2008 when the government issued National Norms and Standards for the Management of Elephants in South Africa. This was when our problems began.
Income through sustainable utilisation
Before detailing our challenges, it needs to be made clear that we own the elephants by definition of the law, and they are our assets. We carry 100% of their management costs. The government does not contribute financially to their management. Despite this fact, the state dictates how we are permitted to manage them. Our business is sustainable-utilisation based, and this is how we successfully manage all our other species, yet we are restricted on the management of our elephant.
Pongola Game Reserve cannot continue to run a business with the current unrealistic restrictions on the sustainable use of certain species. The associated red tape results in loss of potential income for the private wildlife industry. Landowners will resort to commercial farming due to their wildlife business becoming unviable – undoing the excellent progress made on land under conservation and reversing the increases made in wildlife numbers in South Africa.
Desperate times
One practical example of how this plays out is right on our doorstep, where one landowner, whose property previously formed part of the Pongola Game Reserve, changed his land use back to agriculture. This was due to the impracticalities associated with the excessive elephant numbers on the reserve and the financial implications. Once habitat for black rhinos, elephants and other wildlife, that area is now cleared of vegetation and planted with sugarcane.
Another example demonstrates the unmoving stance taken by the state. Pongola experienced a devastating drought between 2014 and 2020, which resulted in the reserve needing to cull a large number of zebra, blue wildebeest and impala to enable other species to have a better chance of survival. We also applied for the culling of 86 elephants as the population was already way above the reserve’s carrying capacity of 30 elephants. Our pleas were ignored with no sympathy or understanding for our situation.
Pongola Game Reserve is unable to balance tourism income with the costs of keeping elephants
Restrictions on elephant management
Several conditions need to be met before managers can be permitted to implement any lethal management solutions for elephants. While our previous management plan included approval for the hunting of a certain number of elephant bulls, the management plan for the next 10 years is currently under review. Until the plan is approved, we cannot hunt any bulls.
Among the conditions that need to be met before lethal management is approved, our most significant challenges are:
Range manipulation – provide proof that management is unable to expand the land available to the elephant:
There is only so much one can do to achieve “land expansion”, so this option is mainly unrealistic and is a temporary solution. All this does is delay the inevitable need to decrease numbers, as the population will become too large for an expanded property.
Translocation – provide proof that management is unable to find alternative properties to which excess elephants can be moved (involving capture and relocation): The fact is that new properties to which elephants can be moved are scarce. For property owners with suitable habitats, many already have too many elephants themselves or don’t want to take elephants due to the current unrealistic management restrictions.
Contraception – implement contraception program on the females: Contraception has no practical population management benefits. All it does is create an ageing population over a period of time. We do not believe that contraception is an ethical solution. Furthermore, it is a costly exercise.
The above conditions need to be met before one can revert to lethal management through culling and hunting. It takes years to reach this point, and in the time being, the elephant population continues to grow unchecked, with all the negative ramifications to the surrounding environment that go along with it. Properties need to monetise the population somehow to spend money on the population sustainably. For us, the only positive income balance to come from elephants is through controlled hunting.
While up until recently we were allowed to hunt bulls, we have not had access to these bulls for hunting. Elephants previously roamed the section of the Pongola Game Reserve northeast of the (N2) highway – within a total area of 8,497 ha in size (including Dubula and the PGRE property – see map below). During the drought when Pongolapoort Dam levels were low, and due to overpopulation, the elephants moved around the boundary fences at the dam onto the Royal Jozini Big 6 Private Estate in Eswatini. After that, a large portion of the population moved around the northern side of the dam back into South Africa onto the eastern shores of Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife’s Phongolo Nature Reserve. There is a standard game fence (with electric strands) between Dubula and the Phongolo Nature Reserve, but the low water levels enabled elephants to move to Phongolo.
While water levels have now risen, elephants can still, and do, cross on occasion. The elephants are still in Royal Jozini Big 6 Private Estate and Phongolo Nature Reserve, with the occasional movement of some elephants into Pongola Game Reserve. Neither Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife nor the Royal Jozini Big 6 Private Estate will permit any lethal management (in the form of hunting or culling) while the elephants are still on their properties. Due to the high numbers of elephant they will continue to occupy these new areas. Without culling and hunting, the elephant population will continue to reach high numbers.
Furthermore, the 2022 hunting and export quota for elephant, black rhino and leopard has been suspended, due to a court application by The Humane Society International – Africa against the Minister of Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment, for not following due process in the allocation of these quota. As such Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife will not be issuing any hunting or export permits for these species.
The property lines between Pongola Game Reserve, Phongolo Nature Reserve and Royal Jozini Big 6 Private Estate show how elephants were able to move between properties when water levels were low during times of drought.
Legislation states that, when culling, managers need to cull an entire herd at once (and not just a portion of the herd or selectively cull individuals over time). This brings challenges of its own. Practically speaking, how would one dispose of 85 carcasses simultaneously? In a country where poverty and hunger are all around us, you cannot waste a valuable protein source.
We should be permitted to manage our elephants the same way we do all our other species. The argument that elephants are more “special” than other species is not valid: all species should be managed under similar principles.
Due to all of the above, it is not practical, beneficial or economically viable for Pongola Game Reserve to continue maintaining elephants.
Our decision to remove elephants in the near future has resulted in the engagement and the attention of the National Department of Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment (DFFE) and Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife. Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife indicated that they are currently drafting a proposal (for the bigger picture and Pongola area) which is awaiting approval from their head office before being submitted to us for discussion. It became clear through our engagement that we are not unique regarding our concerns, as there are many other private properties currently in the same position. DFFE has undertaken to investigate improvements in this regard.
Our decision to remove elephants will stand unless the ‘bigger picture proposal’ being developed by Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife is beneficial to the goals of our elephant management. Similarly, if the new National Norms and Standards for the Management of Elephants in South Africa being drafted by the government are not beneficial to the management of elephant on private property and our goals of sustainable utilisation, then there is no point in keeping the elephant and a decision will need to made on how to achieve their removal. This will take some time to implement, as this on its own brings several logistical issues.
Rethinking the future of elephant management
The reality for the private wildlife industry and the business of conservation is that the adage of “if it pays, it stays” holds. The state will have to rethink current legislation if elephant populations are to remain on private properties and reserves in the future.
We in the private wildlife industry are professionals in what we do. Let us do what we do best to benefit wildlife in South Africa, which can thrive through sustainable use management, as we have proved in the past and continue to do.
Note: On 4 May 2022, Pongola Game Reserve received feedback from Minister of Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment, Barbara Creecy, commenting on Examvelo KZN Wildlife’s commitment to developing a joint management agreement with private sector stakeholders. The letter states there is a “need for innovative and balanced partnership arrangements between state protected areas and adjacent private wildlife areas.” These, Creecy states in the letter, “result in win-win sustainable arrangements, with strong conservation outcomes, and which stimulate the local economy through biodiversity-based enterprises.” The letter further reads, “reaching such agreements in Pongola can provide an important model for success, and I encourage all stakeholder [sic] to work collaboratively, with meaningful participation, to quickly craft the joint management plan [for elephants], and give momentum to economic growth of the area.”
Is there a direct link between elephants and the ongoing loss of large trees? A recent study suggests elephants benefit ecosystems (in open systems) by improving plant diversity. Read more about this here.
Researchers suggest adapting conservaton strategies to the sentience of elephants. Read more here.
Some 23 years ago, I learnt a lesson about context that defines me today.
Lizz and I had endured a particularly gruelling few years at work, so we packed the Landy and headed north for a 3-month sabbatical. Meandering south through the Luangwa Valley in Zambia after spending time in a bush camp on the Mwaleshi River in North Luangwa National Park, we had reached the Nsefu sector of South Luangwa NP. Earlier, we had been delayed for a few hours by a herd of browsing elephants surrounding us. I was concerned that we would not reach the town of Mfuwe before darkness descended. Seeing a dignified old man strolling his shamba (agricultural plot), I decided to ask his advice in case we needed to spend the night nearby.
After the usual pleasantries that so define discussions with rural African folk, I explained our situation. He provided the requested advice, and then, after a long pause, he politely questioned my state of mind at such a trivial roadblock to our plans. “Do you see these cans?” he asked, holding two flatted Coke cans. “These are all that stand between my family and starvation.” Every day and night, I must keep elephants and other animals away from our fields, or we will lose everything. If I see elephants, I run at them and bang the cans together to scare them away. I never know when they will arrive or whether I will succeed in keeping our food safe. For you, the cans mean whether your food is fresh or not. Either way, you are ok. For me, they are everything.”
Postscript: We made it to Mfuwe before nightfall. We gave the gent what remained of our tinned supplies. I still drive the same Landy 🙂
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
There is much to celebrate in the post-pandemic world: travel has opened up across Africa, and the AG tribe is making up for lost time by embarking on safari adventures. But the devastating socio-economic impacts of COVID-19 linger in communities dependent on tourism. In Zimbabwe, 1 in 3 people employed in the tourism industry lost their jobs due to the pandemic. Dianne Tipping-Wood travelled to Zim to meet some of the men and women who are picking up the pieces in the post-COVID reality. See our first story below.
This week, we shine a light on one of the leading gorilla trekking destinations in Africa: Volcanoes National Park. Visitors to this piece of paradise will also be blown away by the breathtaking scenery and astonishing biodiversity of this volcanic landscape.
In the past few weeks, we’ve also been looking into the science surrounding the hunting of large-tusked elephant bulls. Our in-depth look into the science of elephant population genetics is now available on our public website for easy access – see below.
Instead of linking you to some of our safari packages, today we show you how to find them on our app.
It’s easy: Login to our app, tap/click the ‘Travel with us’ tab, select ‘Packages’ and off you go. You can filter the packages by place and experience and even select only non-malaria packages. Once decided you can add that package to your wishlist.
Or, to plan your own safari, select ‘Lodges’ from the same tab and follow the same logic.
Both options enable you to see the prices in a variety of currencies. This is a new app feature, so we are still busy loading up our packages.
Safari njema!
Our Kenyan safari with AG
App subscriber Richard Rolfe says:
“My wife Anne and I go away every January to soak up some sun. As January 2022 approached, prospects looked doubtful as COVID restrictions were slow to lift. I sent a query to AG in November. I got a reply the next day, from Christian – who had led a trip I’d been on to Cameroon in 2010. During the booking process, we were fortunate (thanks to Christian pushing us to make decisions) to be in a position to hit the “Go” button & make firm bookings ahead of many others.
Having studied AG’s article on Samburu, we decided this should be part of the trip. With wild dogs being a key objective, Christian suggested Laikipia Wilderness Camp. We added beach time in Watamu, nearby Arabuko Sokoke Forest for endemic birds, then three days at Satao Camp in Tsavo East. Samburu had the best overall wildlife viewing and some unusual bushveld birds. All in all it was an exceptional safari!”
WATCH: Camera trap footage from Côte d’Ivoire’s Comoé National Park reveals chimpanzees making “tools” out of sticks, to capture water from trees during the dry season. The findings support research that suggests chimp behaviour is influenced by their direct environment. As these primates face a rapidly shrinking habitat, this research can contribute toward essential conservation efforts (02:04). Click here to watch
Sir Attenborough was, as always, spot-on in the narration of his encounter with the mountain gorillas of the Virunga Mountains. Shortly after the ad-libbed but apt summation of his emotional journey, a young gorilla called Poppy grew tired of exchanging glances and attempted to divest him of his shoes. The now-famous scene was filmed in Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda.
Today, Volcanoes National Park is renowned as one of the leading gorilla trekking destinations in Africa – a place where, against so many odds, the critically endangered mountain gorilla has flourished. And while the gorillas may be the stars, visitors are equally likely to find themselves blown away by the breathtaking scenery and astonishing biodiversity of this volcanic landscape.
Volcanoes National Park and the Greater Virunga Ecosystem
Tucked in Rwanda’s north-western corner on the borders of Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo, the 160km2 (16,000 hectare) Volcanoes National Park protects the vital Rwandan portion of the Virunga Mountains. The Virunga range consists of eight major volcanoes, of which five are in Volcanoes National Park. With Uganda’s Mgahinga Gorilla National Park in the north and Virunga National Park in DRC to the west, Volcanoes National Park is part of the Greater Virunga Ecosystem. This trio of countries acts as the guardians of just over half of the world’s remaining mountain gorillas living on the forest-swathed slopes of the imposing volcanoes.
All five of the Virunga volcanoes on the Rwandan side have long since retired from spewing lava (though there are two active volcanoes in the range in neighbouring DRC), but their presence in the park is no less dramatic for their dormancy. Mounts Karisimbi, Bisoke (Visoke), Sabyinyo, Gahinga and Muhabura are the products of ferocious geological forces that shaped this section of the Albertine Rift. The resultant rich volcanic soils laid the necessary groundwork for the astonishing floral (and therefore faunal) lifeforms on display. In addition, scientists believe that much of the eastern Congo basin was an ice age refugia, which explains the unusually high number of species and levels of endemism. These refugia are geographic regions that escaped the worst of the glacial conditions, allowing for the survival of plant and animal species.
Naturally, the visual impact of the jagged mountains looming like teeth is also somewhat breathtaking, though this can be at least in part attributed to the altitude. The park’s highest point is the peak of Mount Karisimbi (4,500 metres), and most of the park lies at over 2,000 metres above sea level – not high enough to cause altitude sickness but something that certainly takes some getting used to for unacclimatised visitors.
The significant altitudinal range within the park has also contributed to considerable variation in vegetation types, changing from tropical and bamboo forest types at lower altitudes to montane forests and Afroalpine shrublands at the highest points. Thickets, grasslands, marshes, and small lakes extend between each volcano. This medley of geological and climatic factors has conferred significant biodiversity and conservation importance to Volcanoes National Park. Of course, the park’s gorilla residents (and the work of dedicated primatologists) first put it on the safari map.
The rich volcanic soils of the Rwandan Virunga volcanoes, protected in Volcanoes National Park, set the groundwork for diverse and unique floral and faunal lifeforms, including the tropical and bamboo forests that are home to the famous gorillas and golden monkeys, drawing tourists from across the globe
Gorillas in water droplets suspended in the atmosphere
Close encounters with gorillas like the one experienced by Sir Attenborough all those years ago are no longer permitted. Visitors are obliged to keep their distance and attempt to move away from the gorillas if approached. This is an important measure taken to ensure the safety and health of the gorillas. Nevertheless, those who go gorilla trekking in Volcanoes National Park will find their encounters meet or, more frequently, exceed expectations. The strain of an early start and arduous hike (that may go on for hours along slippery, twisting mud paths through stinging nettles) rapidly evaporates when one looks into the unfathomable brown eyes of one of our closest relatives. Though few have the eloquence of David Attenborough to describe the experience, adjectives like “spiritual”, “profound”, “soul-stirring”, “humbling”, and “magical” are thrown about like confetti by those able to find them. Others find that words simply fail them.
Twelve gorilla families in Volcanoes National Park are habituated for tourism (other troops are habituated solely for research purposes). These are the Susa, Igisha, Karisimbi, Sabyinyo, Amahoro, Agashya, Kwitonda, Umubano, Hirwa, Bwenge, Ugyenda and Muhoza families. Only six tracking permits are issued per group per day, so time spent with the gorillas is incredibly intimate. Furthermore, 10% of the permit prices are fed back into surrounding communities to develop infrastructure and improve livelihoods. This culture of sustainable tourism is rapidly becoming a proud (and successful) tradition of Rwandan conservation.
For the true gorilla devotee, it is well worth visiting Kwita Izina – an annual naming ceremony for newborn gorillas modelled off a Rwandan tradition of naming children. Conservation champions are honoured with the opportunity to bestow a name upon one of the tiny bundles of primate joy, every one of which is of vital importance to the future survival of the species. Since 2005, 328 gorillas have been named in this way, and the ceremony includes live music, dancing and, of course, essential conservation talks. A well-timed visit allows additional opportunities to speak to gorilla conservationists and park staff. The ceremony usually takes place in September to coincide with World Gorilla Day.
What Dian Fossey would have thought of this ceremony will forever remain a mystery. However, no discussion of the gorillas of Volcanoes National Park would be complete without mention of the Karisoke Research Centre and her work. Though Fossey was a controversial figure, her devotion to her gorilla subjects was absolute, and she eventually gave her life to the fight for their conservation. The abandoned Karisoke Research Centre and Fossey’s final resting place remain popular attractions, though they are only accessible on foot after a relatively strenuous 90-minute hike.
Gorilla trekking in Volcanoes National Park always meets expectations. Twelve gorilla families in Volcanoes National Park are habituated for tourism, though limited permits are issued per group per day
Creatures in the clouds
As remarkable as they are, visiting Volcanoes National Park is not just about the gorillas. In terms of the primates, few people realise that the park is also home to troops of habituated golden monkeys. These charismatic monkeys are almost as scarce as their gorilla cousins and are only found around the Virunga region. With their handsome facial mane, auburn capes of fur, and perpetually surprised expressions, the golden monkeys are the perfect photographic subjects, and their antics are endlessly entertaining.
A pair of golden monkeys share an intimate moment
The forest is also home to forest elephants. However, there are probably no more than 50 individuals wandering the park, and they are generally skittish, unwelcome as they are in the surrounding human villages. The best chance of encountering one is on the hike to the old Karisoke Research Centre. Buffaloes occasionally venture into the forests, and smaller ungulates like bushpigs, giant forest hogs, black-fronted duikers, and bushbucks flourish in the dense vegetation.
Like Nyungwe National Park in southern Rwanda, Volcanoes National Park offers some of the best birding in East Africa. High levels of endemism and the challenges of forest birding make this one of the most electrifying places to search for the feathered specials that keep eager birders awake at night. This bird-watching haven has over 200 different recorded species, including 17 Albertine Rift endemics. At the top of Mount Bisoke (more on that later), scarlet-tufted sunbirds flit from lobelia to lobelia, while further down, Shelley’s crimsonwings do their utmost to evade the avid attentions of teamAG (and pretty much everyone else). Bright scarlet flashes draw the eye to African pittas and Rwenzori turacos, and handsome francolins make up for their comparatively drab appearance with an impressively loud voice (a family trait). Rwenzori double-collared sunbirds, African green broadbills, Rwenzori batises… the list goes on. Even novice (or dare we say disinterested?) bird watchers will find the excitement infectious.
For those wanting to learn more about the bird and mammal offerings in Rwanda, Christian Boix’s (Africa Geographic travel director and one of Africa’s top birding guides) book Wild Rwanda is the region’s most authoritative “where to find” birds and mammals guide. Its Volcanoes National Park section will be an invaluable tool to set you on the right track to target your most coveted Albertine Rift endemics and learn about this volcanic gem.
Volcanoes has much to offer outside of gorilla trekking, including forest birding, L’Hoest’s monkeys, a trip to the twin lakes of Burera and Ruhondo, and buffaloes that occasionally venture into the forests.
Pathways through the mist
For those whose legs have forgiven them their trespasses (like a few hours chasing gorillas up a mountain), Volcanoes National Park is a hiker’s paradise. The truly brave can opt for an overnight route to the top of Mount Karisimbi, the highest point in the park. The name ‘Karisimbi’ translates as ‘white shell’ – so-called due to the white cap of cloud that often covers the summit. Equally challenging is the hike to the top of Mount Muhavura to look out across the twin lakes of Burera and Ruhondo (separated by an ancient lava flow). Many visitors choose to explore the almost alien-like Afroalpine vegetation and crater lake at the top of Mount Bisoke (often, but not always, in search of the red-tufted sunbird).
These hikes depend on a certain level of physical fitness, must be booked in advance, and are always conducted in the company of a park-provided guide.
Gorilla seekers should be prepared for hiking through misty landscapes – though the promise of comfortable accommodation, from budget hotels to ultra-lux lodges, will bring much-needed rest after a long day spent searching
Explore & stay
Want to plan your Volcanoes safari? Scroll down to the end of this story to research and get in touch with our travel team to start the discussion.
The only visitors allowed in the park overnight are those that have booked multiple-day hiking excursions. However, there are many accommodation options ranging from budget hotels to ultra-luxurious lodges on the park’s periphery. The park is open year-round, though the “best time” to visit is from June until September – the long dry season. Though the highest rainfall levels occur from March to May and again in October and November, this is an equatorial region, and rain is possible at any time. And, naturally, the famous mists do more than just hide the gorillas. Consequently, it is essential to waterproof all electronics and photographic equipment, and a good pair of non-slip, waterproof walking boots are vital.
The region’s magic doesn’t end at the park boundaries, and those with an extra day or two can opt to learn more about ancient Rwanda culture at Buhanga Eco-Park. Here the kings of old undertook a series of kingship rituals before being crowned in the park’s caves. Cave systems are extensive around Volcanoes National Park, and since it was first opened in 2014, the 2km trail through the 60-million-year-old Musanze Cave has become increasingly popular.
In Rwanda –the “Land of a Thousand Hills” – the steep, forested slopes of the five in Volcanoes National Park are indisputably among the country’s most unique offerings.
Rose Tshuma is fishing from the eastern bank of the Zambezi River, just in front of the Sidinda Fishing Camp in Zimbabwe, where she works as a housekeeper. “Look across at that crocodile. We’re all hungry,” she says as her eyes follow the stealthy hunter patrolling the opposite shore. The 52-year-old has a wry sense of humour and a keen awareness of the realities of rural life in this part of Zimbabwe. She knows from experience that hunger is no joke.
About eighty kilometres upstream, the mighty Zambezi River plunges more than one hundred meters down the famous Mosi-Oa-Tunya (The Smoke that Thunders), the Lozi name for Victoria Falls, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It pushes on through constricting gorges offering some of the world’s best white-water rafting to this calmer stretch of river: prime game fishing territory for species like feisty tigerfish and vundu, the largest freshwater species in southern Africa. The river then winds its way towards Kariba Dam, Mozambique, and the Indian Ocean.
When tourism suffers
Tourism has always been vital to Zimbabwe’s economy, and in 2019, it contributed a total of 5.8% to the country’s GDP and 8.6% of the total employment. The town of Victoria Falls is an international tourism hub surrounded by national parks and game management areas, including Zambezi National Park and the vast Hwange National Park.
But as Tshuma notes, even here, things are hard. So, working with local partners, the African Nature-Based Tourism Platform gathered data on the effects of the pandemic on tourism businesses in 11 African countries, including Zimbabwe, to identify the hardest-hit communities and enterprises and their most pressing needs. The platform was launched in April 2021 with $1.9 million from the Global Environment Facility (GEF) and is working with local partners in 11 countries, including Zimbabwe, to mobilise at least US$15 million to benefit the most vulnerable.
The eighty enterprises surveyed in Zimbabwe indicated almost 1 in 3 people employed in the tourism value chain had lost their job due to the pandemic. Tshuma’s colleague, tracker Sylvester Ndlovu, has been out of work for nearly two years, while others are on reduced pay as tourism businesses in the area haven’t been able to pay their employees a full salary, given the lack of bookings. Ndlovu sold some of his goats for about US$30 each and used the remaining herd for meat and milk. Others have sold hard-earned vehicles and assets to put food on the table.
Rose Tshuma with a chessa she caught; portrait of Rose; Rose fishing from the eastern bank of the Zambezi River near Sidinda Fishing Camp
As in Zimbabwe, tourism workers all around southern Africa are facing similar challenges, as COVID-19-related bans have strangled international travel, leaving tourism-reliant communities searching for new opportunities. And without the salaries, service fees, tips, and gratuities that supplement rural tourism-dependent livelihoods, the hardest hit people are harvesting wild fruits or snaring animals to survive.
As one of few still employed in the sector, Tshuma will get a modest salary and rations like maize meal, rice, oil, and salt at the end of the month, plus the fish she catches. “I know what it’s like to live off wild fruits,” she says, pointing to the hard, fibrous ilala palm nuts that grow close to the river. “I have eaten those in drought years.” She anticipates challenging months ahead, as many villages in Zimbabwe’s Hwange District already rely on food aid from The World Food Programme.
In 2020 The Zimbabwe Vulnerability Assessment Committee (ZimVAC) estimated that 7.7 million Zimbabweans (5.5 million in rural areas) would experience food insecurity at the peak of the lean season, exacerbated by drought, economic uncertainty, and the COVID-19 pandemic. 2022 doesn’t look much better. A prolonged dry spell followed the early rains, and showers in March and April have come too late for the wilting crops in nearby fields.
Sharing space and resources
The storms have also turned the river brown overnight, and Tshuma isn’t optimistic about her chances today, as the local fish she likes to catch to eat – bream and chessa – favour clear water. When a herd of buffalo comes down to drink late afternoon, she reels in one last time. There are no guests in camp, but she still has chores. The property needs to be maintained for when travel resumes. “I am optimistic people will come back. We must survive until then,” she says.
Tracker Sylvester Ndlovu has had little work for nearly two years as the Zimbabwe tourism industry was hard hit; Chessa are a popular river fish that can be eaten fresh or dried
Without tourism-related jobs, income, and meat from hunting, conservation isn’t an easy sell to villagers living in this important wildlife corridor in the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area.
The web of interdependence between people and wildlife can be as muddy as the river after the rain. Years of drought, overgrazing, livestock diseases, and human-wildlife conflict have put pressure on natural resources in an area that includes Hwange National Park, Zambezi National Park, Victoria Falls National Park, and dozens of lesser-known but ecologically important areas where people and animals live together.
Sharing space and resources like freshwater often leads to conflict between people, crocodiles, elephants, baboons, leopards and hyenas, which raid fields and kill livestock. Safari hunting, fishing, and photographic tourism are an integral part of the economic model for these areas. These income streams make losses of crops and livestock easier for communities to bear.
“These communities find themselves very desperate,” says Charles Jonga, CEO of the Community Areas Management Programme for Indigenous Resources (CAMPFIRE), Zimbabwe’s community-based natural resource management forum administered through Zimbabwe’s rural district councils. They are the African Nature-Based Tourism Platform’s country partner for Zimbabwe. Designed to create an economic value from wildlife resources for people living with wildlife “and suffering the associated opportunity costs,” the organisation has had its ups and downs. Navigating the vagaries of Zimbabwe’s land reform process and associated political uncertainties since its inception in the 1980s, people report mixed feelings about its impact in recent years. And without tourism revenues, the last two years have been some of its most challenging, says Jonga.
Progress postponed
The lodge Tshuma works for is in a conservancy formed in 2018 through CAMPFIRE, with the help of a local safari operator, supported by the Global Environment Facility and the World Bank, and coordinated by WWF Zimbabwe. They had aimed to help address food security issues in the area, but “the pandemic has halted everything,” says conservancy manager Lindon Stanton. Projects, including solar-powered irrigation and livestock breeding programs, were postponed due to a lack of tourism-related income.
The business plan developed with CAMPFIRE and the community showed how the villagers would benefit from future live animal sales and meat production from legal wildlife harvesting; the conservancy would employ game scouts and support various small enterprises. Instead, they are barely covering costs and are likely to have to procure feed for their recently established population of buffalo [previously illegally hunted out of the area], as the expansion of the conservancy to 20,000 hectares is on hold until more funding comes through. Still, Stanton suggests, they’re doing their best with the resources they have to protect the wildlife that they hope will one day revitalise rural economies.
“We clear dozens of illegal snares [from the conservancy] and fishing nets from the river,” says conservancy game scout Emmanuel Mapeta. He believes people are mainly poaching small game because they are “trying to survive.”
Game scout Emmanuel Mapeta with snares collected around the Sidinda Conservancy.
There is still hope that promised jobs and projects will materialise, as “the only way to take the pressure off natural resources is to create the food security and job opportunities for people,” says Stanton. But he also repeats the refrain from everyone in the tourism supply chain: “if the last two years have taught us anything, it’s that we can’t rely on one thing. We must all do something else.”
In rural areas, though, there aren’t many options. “2020 introduced a far worse scenario [than we have faced before] when balancing the needs for conservation and the expectations of communities,” said Jonga. Speaking of CAMPFIRE’s aims, he says, “we’re looking at initiatives within this and other communities that have the potential to create incomes linked to markets. This hasn’t been sufficiently pursued because we need extra resources to get these projects going. Given the lack of tourism, the gestation period for these projects becomes too long. They cannot evolve independently from the very minimal income currently being generated.”
Hunger looming
In Zimbabwe, nearly every survey respondent reiterated the dire need for financial assistance for staff salaries, anti-poaching units, and infrastructure rehabilitation for enterprises and communities. The most urgently requested support was equipment, from uniforms for game scouts to solar boreholes and irrigation infrastructure to improve water access. This information has been captured in a summary report, shared publicly via the platform. The African Nature Based Tourism platform’s next step is to match resilience-building activities with funding options. In some cases, funders may want to use the platform’s data; in other cases, the platform team might work from beginning to end with beneficiaries to develop proposals and get them funded.
In Sidinda, with hunger looming, people focus on surviving the dry season, meaning irrigation schemes for crops are top of mind for many. According to the United Nations, agricultural activities provide food and income for 60-70% of the population of Zimbabwe (UN, 2021), making it ideal as a business that complements tourism. However, most African Nature-Based Tourism Platform surveyed enterprises are found in Zimbabwe’s arid and semi-arid regions and need irrigation to grow crops successfully. Despite one of Africa’s mightiest rivers running through its heart, the Sidinda area is dry for months of the year, even when the rains are good.
A few kilometres from the conservancy gate, the Shoko family lives adjacent to a shared field. A borehole sunk by the conservancy with a solar-powered pump briefly changed their lives. Villagers were able to grow vegetables like butternut, tomatoes, and onions. Some produce was sold to a business in Victoria Falls that processed sun-dried tomatoes, some were sold in the community to supplement diets, some were sold to the fishing lodge to feed guests, and some were consumed directly by the growers.
The pump broke, though, and the community is desperate to fix it, but neither they nor the conservancy has the money. Meanwhile, the field is overgrown, and the crops wilted. “We’ve failed to grow anything this season because there is no water. We are worried about food,” says Jeremiah Shoko, the 73-year-old pump keeper. He has some goats and a few chickens, which he can sell, but “we’re looking for projects to help us get money to feed our babies.”
Unlike the Shokos, farming cousins Mungala Ncube (49) and Makani Tshuma (57) have had a good growing season. They planted early and swapped drought-sensitive maize for more resilient sorghum and millet. Their husbands worked in the Zimbabwe tourism industry, and their crops represented crucial income for the last two years, but elephants have just raided one of their fields.
Game scout Emmanuel Mapeta with his colleagues; farmer Jeremiah Shoko with a cob of maize from his field; Jeremiah Shoko; Jeremiah Shoko stands at the broken borehole pump
They are philosophical about the incident – “it could have been worse” – but believe that training and employing wildlife scouts from and in the community would help mitigate human-wildlife conflict and create much-needed jobs. “Next, we need money to grind what we have harvested,” said Ncube, adding that she hopes they will have enough to feed themselves and their families, plus a small surplus of nine or ten buckets to sell for school fees. They get US$5 for a twenty kilograms bucket of millet or sorghum. School fees cost US$45 per year per child.
“We need to promote rural development to make communities self-dependent,” says Hwange Rural District Council CEO Phindile Ncube. He says having strategies that provide some resilience, like nature-compatible activities that can be sustainably managed locally, is critical to people’s wellbeing. And while currently, COVID-19 is a huge stressor on an already stressed system, calamities can come in the guise of climate change, another pandemic, or political instability.
Building from the ground up
Small projects can have a significant impact in areas like this one in Zimbabwe, which is why the African Nature-Based Tourism Platform is looking for funding to help communities and small and medium enterprises recover from the pandemic and become more resilient to future shocks and stressors, says WWF’s Nikhil Advani, the project manager. The idea is not to replace tourism in Zimbabwe but to complement it because despite the hardships so many are facing, people are still optimistic about its potential.
Farmers Mungala Ncube and Makani Tshuma show game scouts where the elephants raided their fields; Mungala Ncube in her field; Mungala and Makani harvested their sorghum and millet earlier than other farmers
“There have been some new investments in tourism, even during the pandemic, especially in and around Victoria Falls,” notes Jonga. Just upstream from the Victoria Falls, in the Zambezi National Park, one such new development, Mpala Jena Zambezi River Camp, opened in December 2021. Head guide Blessed Mpofu is from Chisuma, fifteen kilometres below the falls, on the road to Sidinda. Camp Manager at Mpala Jena Rabbon Nyoni was raised in Victoria Falls, where many of his childhood role models worked in the safari industry. They explained how the money they earn at the lodge filters through to the villages where they grew up.
During the worst months of the pandemic, Mpofu was on half-pay and had to sell his Landcruiser to meet his financial obligations to his family. “From a rural boy, I had gotten somewhere in my life, so this was a huge step back. My dream has always been to start a guide school, and I’ve had to put that on hold. But I used the money from the sale of my Landcruiser to drill a borehole in Chisuma and start doing some farming,” he explains. He’s also gone ahead with a business plan and getting permission from the Hwange Rural District Council for his guide school. Like Tshuma, he has faith in better days to come. Until then, their cash flow is as vital a lifeline as the river itself.
This is a true story – that always earns me a few wry smiles in the telling. Years ago I was with a group of American safari clients on game drive, and one of them asked me where I am from. “I am African,” I replied. “No,” she said, “where are you originally from?” “I am African, born and bred,” I repeated, and they looked confused. So I asked them a question: “If I was to move to America and become a citizen, would you refer to me as African-American?” There was a thoughtful silence before the smiles broke out.
What’s this got to do with safari & conservation? Everything, because if we are to keep Africa’s biodiversity safe from abusive exploitation we need to step away from the social constructs that divide us and embrace our differences. teamAFRICA!
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Does the hunting of large-tusked elephant bulls lead to the decline of tuskers, and what is the impact on elephant population genetics? Since we released the news that two of Africa’s largest elephants were trophy hunted in Botswana, the debate over the hunting of Africa’s tuskers has been flowing in the stories section of our app (check out the comments on the original story, and the debate on our retrospective of the matter). In our first story below we take a deep look into the science surrounding the matter, and the effects of hunting older elephant bulls. This story is available exclusively on our app for the next few days. Get the app to view – it’s free.
On a brighter and lighter note: who needs 5 stars when you can have a gazillion? Could you imagine anything better than spending a night under the African sky, stargazing while tucked into a warm and luxurious bed? We’ve put our heads together to find the continent’s best destinations for sleeping out under the stars. You can find unbeatable prices on these destinations and more by checking out our collection of lodges. See our second story below.
Happy indulging in Africa to you all!
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
The vast majority of those reading this are right-handed because that describes approximately 90% of the human population. There is an astonishing amount of research into human “handedness” and its relationship with everything from sports to health.
But did you know that elephants also favour their left or right side? In their case, however, it’s called “tuskedness“. Almost all elephants (>95%) favour one or the other tusk, with an almost even split between right and left tuskedness. The dominant tusk is used more frequently and thus wears down more than its subordinate. There is also evidence that they have a preference for rightward or leftward use of their trunks, though it is still not yet known how this relates to tusk use.
Behavioural lateralisation (the asymmetrical expression of cognitive functions) is observed across multiple animal families and makes for fascinating reading for those looking to fall down a rabbit hole. (After reading our stories, of course.)
This Big 5 safari in the malaria-free Madikwe Game Reserve is excellent value for money. Madikwe is known for sightings of African wild dog (painted wolf), cheetah and brown hyena. And for twitchers, there are 400 migrant and resident bird species.
Tanzania’s Serengeti hosts the wildebeest migration – the greatest show on Earth – for the entire year as the herds move clockwise (more or less) around the vast Mara/Serengeti ecosystem. So whether you want to experience the drama of the Mara River crossings in the north or the predator action during the calving season in the south, there is a safari for you. We can tailor this safari to your budget and preferred travel time.
Searching for shoebills with AG
App subscriber Angela Key travelled to Uganda with AG. ? Navigating Mabamba Swamp with expert bird guide Harriet Kemigisha, Angela got up close with a shoebill, and was finally able to photograph the dinosaur bird in person. Check out Nkima Forest Lodge, within walking distance of Mabamba Swamp for excellent rates – and you could soon be in Angela’s shoes ?
WATCH: Why is this spot in the Congo Basin attracting so much attention? Scientists have discovered a massive peatland in the area – the most extensive tropical peatland on earth, holding 20 times as much carbon as the USA releases from burning fossil fuels in a year. See why conservationists are seeking protection for this area (06:34). Click here to watch
Trophy hunting is a controversial and multifaceted subject. One aspect of this debate concerns the targeting of elephant bulls with large tusks in hunting, and whether or not this is an acceptable loss to elephant population genetics. With large-tusked elephants in decline, what does the science say on the subject?
Proponents of the trophy hunting of these elephant bulls generally either argue that the individuals selected are at an age where they have already had time to contribute to the gene pool or are no longer reproducing. Those against the practice argue that hunting these “genetically gifted” elephants amounts to the “surgical removal of Africa’s remaining large-tusked elephants”.
Summary
Populations across Africa may differ in terms of the effect of ageing on reproductive potential. Extrapolations from one area may not apply with absolute certainty to another.
Bull elephants exhibit indeterminate growth, and their tusk growth rate increases exponentially throughout their lifetime.
Bulls can and do sire offspring from around 25 years of age, but their reproductive success increases until they reach a peak roughly between 45 and 49 years of age.
On average, their reproductive success decreases slightly from the age of 50 to 54 and more significantly from 55 to 61 years of age.
Individuals have been recorded in musth (suggesting they can reproduce) at the age of 63.
Senescence may result in breeding cessation when a bull can no longer maintain the necessary physical condition to compete and mate – the age when this occurs is likely to be highly variable.
Factors other than age play a role in reproductive success, including the timing of musth cycles.
Given the difficulty of accurately ageing an elephant by sight and their capacity for reproduction into old age, the margin for error is relatively narrow.
We do not fully understand the genetic mechanisms of tusk size, which impact its heritability. This will play a role in determining whether a large-tusked elephant can be considered to have contributed “sufficiently” to elephant genetics before his death.
This article focuses on summarising the available science on growth, tusk size and breeding as a function of age in adult male African savannah elephants. However, at the outset, it is essential to clarify that there will always be individual physiological differences within any population. The ageing process (and its effects on reproductive potential) will never be the same for two individual male elephants. This is also true of populations of elephants living in different parts of the continent, exposed to various environmental factors and, most importantly, consuming slightly different diets.
How do elephants age?
Elephants feed almost constantly throughout the day to meet the metabolic requirements needed to sustain their massive frames. Elephants are equipped with four enormous molars (two on the top jaw and two on the bottom) that wear down due to continuous chewing. These molars are replaced five times during their lifetime (equating to six sets of teeth). When the final set wears down entirely, the elephant can no longer chew properly and will eventually die of malnutrition or related complications.
Bull elephants have a maximum life expectancy of around 60-65 years, and they continue to grow throughout their lives (indiscriminate growth). However, experts estimate that only around half of all male elephants survive to peak competitive age, and relatively few (approximately 10%) live longer than around 50 years old (Moss 2001, Poole et al. 2013).
Tusk growth in African savannah elephants (Loxodonta africana) is sexually dimorphic, with the tusks of the males growing thicker and longer than those of the females. Research suggests that not only do these tusks grow throughout the elephant’s life, but the growth pattern appears to be exponential rather than linear. In other words, their tusks grow at an accelerating rate as they get older – particularly in terms of increasing mass and circumference (Spinage 1994, White and Hall-Martin 2014).
Longevity, indeterminate growth, and increasing tusk size point towards sexual competition favouring larger and older male elephants. As dominance between bulls is determined by body size (Poole 1989b), the natural conclusion is that older elephants will have increased mating success, borne out by the available research.
Musth and the reproductive lifespan of a bull elephant
Bulls reach sexual maturity (are physically capable of mating and producing offspring) at around the age of 15, but under natural conditions, it may be several years before they can secure the opportunity to mate. Around the age of 25 to 30 years, male elephants start entering into musth cycles characterised by a substantial increase in testosterone concentrations and several behavioural, physiological and physical changes.
The importance of musth in elephants cannot be understated. Males in musth are more aggressive towards competitors, engage in mate guarding and reduce foraging time to prioritise the search for oestrus females (Rasmussen et al. 2008, Taylor et al. 2019). Females receptive to mating (in oestrus) also show a preference for musth bulls (Poole 1989). However, this does not mean that elephant bulls not in musth do not sire offspring. Opportunistic mating does occur, and non-musth bulls are responsible for a constant, low percentage of the paternity of calves (Hollister-Smith 2007, Rasmussen 2008). However, musth bulls will dominate mating opportunities, even those smaller than non-musth competitors and most conceptions will result from a bull in musth (Hollister-Smith 2007, Poole et al. 2013). When two musth bulls compete for access to females, body size generally determines dominance – tusk size does not seem to play a role (Poole 1989b). This suggests that large-tusked elephants are no more likely to be successful in sexual competition than a counterpart of similar age.
Thus, elephant bulls over the age of 30 rely on musth as their primary reproductive strategy. Older bulls with longer musth cycles will inevitably have more mating opportunities than younger individuals. Research indicates that the “median duration of musth increases from two days for males aged 16–25 years, to 13 days for males aged 26–35 years, to 52 days for males aged 36–40 years, to 69 days for males aged 41–45, to 81 days for males aged 46–50 years, and then declines again to 54 days for males aged 51–60 years of age” (Rasmussen 2008, Poole et al. 2013). Males over the age of 35 are generally only in musth once a year (Poole 2013). Elephant bulls up to 63 years old have been observed exhibiting musth, suggesting that for some individuals, at least, almost lifelong reproduction is possible.
To summarise: “The longer a male survives and the older he becomes, the more ‘successful’ he has the opportunity to be. Thus, a strong relationship exists between the number of years that a male has been seen to be in musth and the total number of conceptions that occurred during his musth periods” (Poole 2013).
An elephant bull in musth. Bulls over the age of 30 rely on musth as their primary reproductive strategy
Peaks, declines, and the contribution of younger males
In keeping with the above conclusion, research from Amboseli shows increasing reproductive success with increasing age (Hollister-Smith 2007). Genetic samples were taken from 89 adult male elephants and 279 calves and their mothers. Their analysis shows a gradual increase in reproductive success (measured by calves sired) from around 30 to a peak from 45 and 53 and then decline to around the same level of a male in his early 40s. The oldest elephant that sired a calf was 59 years old, and four males sired 14 calves between them in their 50s. The three oldest males (aged 48, 53 and 58) were responsible for 30% of the paternity in question.
In the study, males in their mid-20s sired calves, but this was an uncommon occurrence. However, males under the age of 35 fathered 29% of the calves. So, while males do produce more offspring in their later years, they have likely contributed to the genetics of a population before that. However, whether this contribution is sufficient to ensure the continuity of the large-tusked phenotype is scientifically uncertain and depends at least in part on the heredity of the trait (more on this below).
How old is that elephant?
Outside of known and extensively studied individuals, the most accurate way to age an elephant is to examine the condition of its molars. Naturally, this is difficult in the field and ageing an elephant by sight (particularly on foot) is inherently challenging. Experts rely on several physical features, including body condition (very old elephants have a gaunt appearance), posture and head shape.
A recent study from Kenya (Taylor et al. 2019) emphasised the importance of the effects of musth on elephant energy expenditure. Elephants in musth were found to walk faster and further than those not in an active reproductive state. This results in decreased feeding time, and in older bulls that maintain these musth cycles for months, the increased energy expenditure manifests as a significant loss of body condition (Poole 1989). As a result, when hunting an elephant, hunters could mistake a bull in musth for an older individual during a hunt.
Ageing an elephant by looking at the tusk size is also considered by experts to be problematic due to the considerable variation within individuals (Whyte and Hall-Martin 2014). While it is safe to assume that an elephant sporting large tusks is likely to be an older individual, whether or not they are within the “prime breeding” age bracket of between 45-49 is difficult to determine. Individual subjects of long-term studies whose ages are known, such as well-known tuskers Tim, Tolstoy and Satao (from Kenya) and Isilo (from South Africa), had substantial tusks well before their 50s. Given that tusk growth increases as the elephant ages, hunting young elephants before they exhibit signs of being a “tusker” may also result in the loss of large-tusk genetics.
A 100-pounder elephant bull felled by hunting in the CH8 concession in Botswana in July 2021
Heritability – the next big question?
It is apparent that tusk size is a heritable trait, but the extent of this heritability and its genetic basis are still not understood and likely to be complex. Recent genetic research on the elephants of Gorongosa identified some of the genes involved in tusk growth, including one linked to the X chromosome and one autosomal chromosome (Campbell-Staton et al., 2021). This research was based on exploring the phenomenon of tuskless elephants, and tusk size is probably determined by the effects of additional genes (and likely environmental factors). The dominant or recessive nature of the alleles (a variant form of a gene) will also affect physical manifestation of this trait.
The significance of this goes to the heart of the argument about whether or not large-tusked elephants killed over the age of fifty have contributed “sufficiently” to the genetics of a herd to preserve the large-tusk phenotype. Simply put, the more genes involved in producing large tusks, the smaller the chances of passing them along during one breeding event. Conversely, the more mating opportunities, the higher the chances of securing the future of large-tusk genetics in one or more offspring. (Of course, a corollary to this is that bulls with small tusks could still carry some alleles related to large tusk growth.)
Final thoughts
The vast majority of the available research on the reproductive lives of male savannah elephants comes from long-term research conducted in Kenya, in the greater Amboseli ecosystem in particular. Exactly how this applies to elephant populations in other ecosystems is a matter for further study.
However, it is clear from existing research that claims of elephants over the age of 50 being “past their prime” are demonstrably false. These animals are still capable of mating and producing calves with greater success than when they were in their 20s and 30s. Furthermore, hunting a bull elephant between the ages of 45 and 49 under the mistaken impression that he was older will result in the loss of his most reproductively successful years. The margin for error here is a narrow one and emphasises the need for caution in aging prospective trophy bulls.
The significance of an elephant’s prior contribution to the tusk sizes of future elephant generations depends at least in part on the genetic basis of tusk size – a factor that has not yet been scientifically clarified. Without this knowledge, it is difficult to know with any certainty whether or not a trophy hunted bull has been given “sufficient” opportunity to pass on his large-tusked legacy before he is killed. Statistically, the more conceptions he contributes to, the greater the chance of genetic perpetuation. Thus the ethical question at hand becomes one of risk – are we willing to take that chance with large-tusked elephants?
Further reading
Researchers say the large-tusked elephant is in decline, and should be protected from trophy hunting. Read more here.
Poole J. H., Mate guarding, reproductive success and female choice in African elephants, Animal Behaviour, 37 (1989b), 842-849
Poole J. H., Lee, P. C. & Moss, C. (2013) Longevity, competition and musth: a long-term perspective on male reproduction. Amboseli Elephants: a Long-term Perspective on a Long-lived Mammal (Ed. by C. Moss & H. Croze). Chicago: University of Chicago Press
There is little in the world that can match the atmosphere of the African wilderness at night. As the dark comes alive with the sound of nocturnal stirrings and the blaze of the Milky Way burns its way across the sky, there is nothing quite like spending a night in the open, stargazing. Of course, for some, the stony ground and clinging sleeping bag are part of the experience, but, for the rest, luxury sleepout options abound.
These days, most lodges are equipped with every modern convenience. This is not a bad thing, but it can undermine the allure of an escape into the wild. A night under the stars is the perfect remedy: a way to reset, unplug and connect with Africa in the most authentic way possible.
So, lie back, put your feet up and immerse yourself in the magic of the African night with our top 13 sleepout spots.
There is no better way to soak up the wildness of the African night, than with a night spent stargazing in the open, sounds of nocturnal activity echoing close by.
Skybeds,Khwai Private Reserve, Botswana: Northern Botswana is one of Africa’s most prolifically productive safari destinations, so a night spent in Skybeds overlooking the only permanent water source for miles around is guaranteed to be an adventure. Fall asleep to the sound of rumbling elephants, whooping hyenas and roaring lions, awakening to the savannah dawn’s crisp beauty.
Kanana Deck,Okavango Delta, Botswana: In the heart of the Okavango Delta, the Kanana Deck is what dreams are made of – quite literally. Unadorned yet comfortable, the Kanana Deck offers a safe way to experience the electrifying nightlife in one of the wildest spots in Africa.
Elephant Hide Star Bed at Kaingo Camp, Shenton Safaris, South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: The Luangwa River is the core of the entire Luangwa Valley ecosystem. The Elephant Hide Star Bed nestled in a jackalberry tree on its banks is perfectly positioned to take advantage of the action. With nothing separating you from the African night but the thin gauze of a mosquito net, the experience is vividly wild and soul-refreshing.
Skybeds in Khwai Private Reserve, the Elephant Hide Star Bed at Kaingo Camp in South Luangwa National Park, and the Kanana Deck in the Okavango Delta all make for a wild night in the open
For the purest desert stargazing experience
Southern African stargazing is legendary, and there is nowhere better to experience it than in a desert, where the night sky is bright, clear, and unobscured by city lights or tall trees.
Namib Dune Star Camp, Namib-Naukluft National Park, Namibia: Some of the best star bathing can be done in the austere Namib Desert. Namib Dune, an adventure camp, is perched on the top of ancient ochre dunes overlooking the majesty of the desert. Enjoy a sundowner on the deck and take in the view before wheeling the bed out onto the deck and snuggling into its warmth. Although the desert nights may be chilly, the cold only makes the blanket of stars more spectacular.
The Malori, Tswalu Kalahari Reserve, South Africa: Arrive as the setting sun begins to paint the Kalahari sands in shades of red, and choose your Nepenthe nectar of choice to drink in the arrival of the darkness. Then retire to sink into soft linens and drift off to sleep serenaded by barking geckos.
Namib Dune Star Camp in the Namib Desert, and The Malori in Tswalu Kalahari Reserve offer the best of desert nights
For extreme solitude and respite
Far from the madding crowd in the quiet of night is where pure peace can be found. For soaking up the vastness of space and the universe beyond, uncomplicated elegance and seclusion are best.
Meno a Kwena,Makgadikgadi Pans, Botswana: A comfy mattress, a lamp, and the vast expanse of the Makgadikgadi Pans stretching out in every direction without another soul for miles around? This is a sleepout at its purest – a no-frills embrace of the essence of this extraordinary piece of wilderness.
Uninterrupted contemplation awaits at Meno a Kwena in Makgadikgadi Pans
Africa on Foot Treehouse, Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, South Africa: How better to celebrate an already adventurous day on foot amongst the continent’s most iconic animals than with a well-earned night spent stargazing in the open air of the bushveld? Africa on Foot is removed from the crowds, and offers tranquillity and comfort to counterpoint days out exploring.
Meno a Kwena in Makgadikgadi Pans and Africa on Foot’s Treehouse in Klaserie Private Game Reserve are ideal destinations for solitude and seclusion under the night sky
For open-air luxury
Sleeping roofless does not mean compromising on quality and opulence. Comfort and leisure can still take priority when spending a night out in the open.
Tuludi Sky Suite, Khwai Private Reserve, Botswana: Simple, elegant, and tasteful, the Tuludi Sky Suite provides its visitors with every luxury while blending perfectly into its wild environment. Enjoy sitting next to the cosy fire as the creatures of the Okavango night come alive and embrace the dawn the following day with a refreshing open-air shower.
Starbed Treehouse at Victoria Falls River Lodge, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe: Rising on stilts above the mighty Zambezi River and nestled in the treeline of Kandahar Island, the Starbed Treehouses offer expansive views of magnificent surroundings. The double story treehouse provides all the comfort of a five-star luxury lodge, complete with a plunge pool, but it is the king-sized bed on the open upper deck that makes this stargazing experience truly extraordinary.
Starbed Treehouse at Victoria Falls River Lodge and the Tuludi Sky Suite in Khwai Private Reserve are luxurious alternatives for open-air sleeping.
For waking up to incredible views
Nothing beats the satisfaction of waking up to the first rays of the sun stretching out across the plains below, straight onto your duvet. Breathtaking night skies and even better morning views make for overwhelming magic.
Star bed, Samara Karoo Reserve, Karoo, South Africa: Samara’s star bed, perched on the Milk River, will take your breath away. From the comfort of your bed, you can watch as wildlife descends to the water to drink. Soak up views over the mountainous landscape, free of light and noise pollution, while marvelling at the Milky Way. Drift off to sleep in the warm bed, and wake up to the birdsong of the Karoo.
Samara’s star bed offers views over the spectacular Karoo
Loisaba Star Beds, Loisaba Conservancy, Laikipia, Kenya: Generally, the Milky Way steals the show on most African sleepouts, but, at Loisaba, it is the sunrise that is the showstopper. Even the latest habitual sleeper will be inspired to rise before dawn breaks to sip on a hot beverage and watch the sun slowly drench the rolling plains below in gold.
Star Bed, Busanga Plains Camp, Kafue National Park, Zambia: Not many can say they have spent the night in the open amidst the wetlands of Kafue National Park, where palm groves, papyrus-choked reed beds and lily-covered lagoons support an abundance of life. The jewel of Kafue, Busanga Plains hosts a lush mosaic of grassy seasonal floodplains stretching to the horizon. The Star Bed at Busanga Plains Camp is on a four-meter platform amidst the palms, overlooking the floodplains below. Wake up to a cacophony of magical sounds in this birding and wildlife paradise.
Ol Donyo Lodge, Chyulu Hills, Kenya: Hewn into the ancient lava rock that dominates the dramatically beautiful Chyulu Hills, the Ol Donyo Lodge is every bit at one with nature as it appears. Here, sleeping under the stars is simply viewed as an essential part of the safari experience, and every suite is equipped with a starbed on the upper level so that its visitors can use it at will. Unsurprisingly, many visitors spend every night of their visit embracing this stargazing opportunity.
Wake up to overwhelming views at Loisaba Star Beds in Loisaba Conservancy, Ol Donyo Lodge in Chyulu Hills and Busanga Plains Camp Star Bed in Kafue National Park
Want to plan your safari? Get in touch with our travel team to start the discussion.
Kruger is known to many as ‘the greatest place on earth’, and I’m delighted I’ll be getting my own fix in the north of the park in just two weeks’ time. (And you can too – check out our discounted rates on some epic Kruger lodges here).
As one of the most robust conservation areas in South Africa, the land encompassing Kruger National Park and Greater Kruger is home to South Africa’s greatest wildlife populations. The APNR, a collection of reserves in Greater Kruger, provides an essential tract of land for Kruger’s animals to roam. Monitoring these populations helps preserve the integrity of this important ecosystem. We delve into the latest APNR census results to highlight the fascinating ebb and flow of nature – see our first story below.
This week we also celebrate the most hardy and entertaining of animals: the magnificent hippopotamus. Jamie shares some personal encounters with the powerful and speedy beasts, and some intriguing facts shedding light on these mysterious semi-aquatic creatures. These pics and insights are guaranteed to bring lightness to your being. Check out our second story.
Happy indulging in Africa to you all!
Taryn van Jaarsveld — Editor
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
The phrase “illegal wildlife trade” immediately brings to mind things like rhino horn, ivory, pangolin scales and lion bones. But did you know that parrots are one of the most trafficked animal families in the world? Their popularity in the pet trade (along with extensive habitat loss) has meant that 60% of Earth’s Psittaciformes (parrot) species are in decline.
Take the African grey parrot, for example. They are currently listed as Endangered on the IUCN Red List and, prior to their inclusion on Appendix I of CITES in 2017, were trapped in their thousands to supply the pet trade. Fortunately, there are those dedicated to protecting remaining wild populations. Dr Rowan Martin has shared updates on the work of the World Parrot Trust on our forum. To check out the post, download our app (details below). You can also seamlessly donate to the project to support their significant contribution to parrot conservation!
Desert & delta This iconic and ever-popular 11-day safari is about water – or the lack thereof. We visit Victoria Falls, Okavango Delta, Chobe and the desolate Botswana salt pans in our quest to understand how water defines southern Africa’s wild places. Options for all budgets. And we can tailor the duration to suit you – drop this, add that …
And now for something completely different
Look away if your ideal safari is in the comfort zone because this is not your average vanilla-flavoured outing! Search for lowland gorillas, bongos, dwarf crocodiles, forest elephants and flocks of grey parrots in the dense forests of Congo in this one-of-a-kind, life-changing adventure.
“Thanks to a donation received from AG’s app subscribers, Project Luangwa was able to provide 15 new desks to Yosefe Secondary School in Zambia, helping to provide a proper workspace for Grade 1 pupils who had up until recently been sitting on the floor in class. As class sizes continue to rise, we can often see 4 or 5 students crammed onto one small desk. Rural schools in the country face many challenges.”
WATCH: Anatolian shepherd dogs play an important role in alleviating human-wildlife conflict between livestock farmers and predators in Namibia. Meet Captain, a guard dog who dutifully watches over and protects his herds morning, noon and night (03:15). Click here to watch
It was just before the arrival of the rains in the South African Lowveld, when the heat seems relentless. We had come across a solitary bull hippopotamus, squeezed into a tiny patch of remaining mud, the skin on his back cracked and dry. I parked the safari vehicle at a comfortable distance, observing his body language for any signs of upset, as hippos are understandably grumpy at the height of the dry season. But he could have been dead for all the movement he showed – only the slight twitches of his ears gave him away as he snoozed.
We sat for a while, contemplating the harshness of nature before I did something unfortunate. It was blazing hot, and there was not a single patch of shade. And so, I pulled out a spray-on sunscreen. Without thinking, I depressed the nozzle, and all hell broke loose…
With a sound akin to the unblocking of the world’s largest toilet, the bull extracted himself from the mud wallow and launched himself at us, mouth agape and enormous tusks front and centre. In the time it took me to start the car and throw it into reverse, he had covered the significant distance between us and was almost level with my door. I had a brief but unfortunate view of the back of his throat before I hurtled backwards up a steep slope. The bull pulled up short and shot me a rightfully affronted look. I suspect, had he been able to talk, he would have muttered some very unflattering words. To say I was decidedly rattled, deeply regretful and suitably chastened would be an understatement.
That night, the heat broke, the heavens opened, and summer rolled in on thick cumulus clouds. The bull hippo was gone the next day.
Quick introduction
I have had many other hippopotamus sightings, which have been more interesting or even more dangerous than the sunscreen incident (we were, after all, in a car and able to move away). Yet that moment still stands out in my mind as the most spectacular display of power from a hippopotamus I have witnessed – for the sheer speed with which the two-tonne bull went from dozing to full-on gallop.
As one of the largest land mammals in the world and distributed across most of sub-Saharan Africa’s waterways, the hippopotamus (Hippopotamus amphibius) probably needs little in the way of introduction. These semiaquatic behemoths prefer to spend the vast majority of their days (sometimes 16 hours or more) in the water, emerging at night or on cloudy days to graze. Despite this hydrophilic existence, hippos are surprisingly poor swimmers. They prefer to wallow in the shallows where they can stand on the river floor and move through the water by trotting or leaping along the bottom. Their dense bones confer a high specific gravity which allows them to counteract the buoyancy of the water – but this also means they cannot float.
Their specially designed skulls align the ears, eyes and nostrils on the top of the head, so these sensory organs can protrude above the surface while the hippo remains otherwise submerged. When submerged entirely, the muscles around the ears and nostrils constrict and fold to seal off to keep the water out. A hippo can hold its breath for around five minutes due to a slowed metabolism but must regularly emerge to replenish its oxygen supplies.
Though this aquatic existence confers several advantages, there is one significant trade-off: a hippo’s skin is extremely sensitive to the sun. Most people by now are familiar with the hippo’s “blood sweat” – a pinkish substance secreted onto the skin that is not blood at all but rather a specialised sunscreen. The two pigments – hipposudoric acid and norhipposudoric acid – also have antimicrobial properties to help guard the skin against infection.
Hippos’ specially designed skulls allow for sensory organs to protrude above the surface; hippos spend time grazing in the evenings or in overcast weather; male territoriality does not extend to foraging beyond the water; their dense bones allow them to counteract the buoyancy of the water; hippopotamus’s skin is extremely sensitive to the sun
Quick facts
Mass:
Males: average 1, 500kg (up to over 3,000kg)
Females: average 1,300kg
Shoulder height:
1.30 – 1. 65m
Social structure:
Territorial males and pods of females and offspring
Gestation:
243 days (eight months)
Life expectancy:
Up to 40 years
Conservation status:
Vulnerable
Like a fish to water
The hippopotamus (Hippopotamus amphibious) is one of two living members of the Hippopotamidae family. The second member is the endangered pygmy hippopotamus (Choeropsis liberiensis), native to the forests and swamps of West Africa. Several extinct members of the Hippopotamidae, some almost identical to the present-day species, once dominated the river systems across Europe and Asia (including the River Thames!). There were also at least three species of Malagasy hippos, one of which only went extinct roughly 1,000 years ago, which coincides with the arrival of humans on the island.
Endangered pygmy hippos are native to West Africa
The hippopotamids’ closest relatives are the cetaceans – whales and dolphins. The two groups likely split from the other artiodactyls (like ruminants) around 60 million years ago and then diverged from a common semiaquatic ancestor some six million years later. The cetaceans eventually evolved to become fully aquatic, while the hippopotamids remained dependent on access to land.
Two (or more) hippos in a pod
Compared to other large land-dwelling mammals in Africa, the social interactions between hippos are challenging to study – even distinguishing young males from females is impossible when only their heads are visible. As a result, it is highly likely that there are nuances to their behaviours and social structures yet to be unravelled.
What we do know is that when water and space are plentiful, hippos form small associations of up to 15 or more individuals, known as schools, pods or, somewhat facetiously, bloats. These family groups typically consist of a territorial bull, cows, and their offspring, and mother-daughter bonds are deep-seated and may persist over a lifetime. Young males may be tolerated around the dominant bull, provided they behave submissively around him. They will often gather in small bachelor groups before eventually striking out on their own to claim a territory when they are around seven to eight years old.
Hippos do not adopt a social approach for nocturnal feeding forays, and most prefer a night of solitary snacking (where they may consume over 50kgs of grass in an evening). Interestingly, the territoriality of the bulls does not seem to extend to their land-based life, and researchers now believe that the middens are not territorial as previously thought. Male territoriality revolves around mating rights, so the region he defends in the water and along the riverbank may vary and does not extend to foraging beyond the river.
When space is at a premium (such as during the dry season when available water is limited), hippos may pack together in their hundreds. Still, they do so with seemingly great reluctance, and fights are a regular occurrence.
Frolicking hippos
Hippos may breed throughout the year, though there is usually a peak in calving during the wet season. Mating usually takes place in the water, and the female is forced to snatch quick gasps of air before the male dunks her back under the surface. Conception is followed by an eight-month gestation and the birth of a calf that may weigh up to 50kg. (It is worth considering how short this gestation period is compared to other mammals. In terms of size comparison, both rhino species give birth to calves of a similar size but their gestation period is almost double that of a hippopotamus. Even humans have a longer gestation.)
Social interactions between hippos are challenging to study; as the calf grows, it becomes more confident and playful; hippo mothers are highly protective of their young; hippos in their hundreds crowd into the last remaining waters during the dry season in Katavi National Park, Tanzania; hippos form small associations of up to 15 or more individuals. For more images from Danielle Carstens, follow @dcwildlifephotography
The hippo mother gives birth on her own in a quiet pool of water, and the calf instinctively strikes out for the surface immediately. The pair remain isolated until the enchanting little calf is old enough to be introduced to the rest of the pod at around a month old. As the calf grows, it becomes more confident and playful, often engaging in wrestling matches with other calves of a similar age.
Hippopotamus mothers are highly protective of their young, and hippo calves have few natural predators – generally, only lions and large spotted hyena clans attempt to hunt them. Even the massive crocodiles that share the rivers and pools are reluctant to attract maternal ire. However, one aspect of hippo behaviour that often shocks witnesses is the rare instances of infanticide. This is typically committed by the dominant bull during a territorial disruption or in times of stress, and the mother is seldom able to prevent it.
Speaking hippo
Naturally, visual communication between individuals is inevitably reasonably limited in the murky underwater environment. As a result, much hippo communication is vocal, with a laugh-like grunt being perhaps the most well-known of their vocal repertoire. However, few people realise that aside from the above surface grunts, roars, bellows and shrieks, hippos also communicate underwater. Studies show that up to 80% of hippo vocalisations are made below the surface. Some of these sub-aquatic songs are very similar to the high-pitched calls produced by whales.
A hippo can open its mouth to almost 180 degrees
Visually, the famously wide yawn is perhaps the hippo’s most notorious body language cue. The joint of the jaw is situated far back in the skull, and the orbicularis oris (the muscle we all have around our mouths) is folded in such a way in the hippo that, at full stretch, it can open its mouth almost 180 degrees. This serves to reveal an intimidating set of tusks, particularly in adult males, and should usually be interpreted as a threat display. The lower canine tusks curve upwards and can grow over 50cm in length, while the lower incisors present a forward-facing barrier of spears. The tusks are used as offensive weapons, predominantly when two bulls fight.
Fights between territorial males become more common when available water starts to shrink during the dry season. These clashes can be ferocious and fatal if one party does not back down. The vanished bull is sent packing, which, when water is scarce, can be a death sentence in the hot sun due to their sensitive skins.
The most dangerous animal in Africa?
These fearsome tusks are feared by all who encounter them, including people. The hippo is often touted as “Africa’s most dangerous animal” and the one that “kills the most people on the continent”. Both of these statements are distinctly unfair and demonstrably false. For a start (though admittedly somewhat pedantically), malaria-spreading Anopheles mosquitoes are also animals and indirectly kill up to half a million people every year. Furthermore, crocodiles likely kill just as many, if not more, people as hippos, but the bodies are frequently not found, and the victim disappears without a trace.
That said, hippos do earn their dangerous reputation. They can be aggressive and are massive, well-armed animals capable of doing significant harm. And unless you happen to be Usain Bolt, they can outrun you. Yet even this needs to be considered in context. Hippos are aquatic animals, and humans are dependent (and more populous) around water. Hippos feel safest in the water and are unlikely to bother people when fully submerged. It is when people come between them and their place of safety (or a calf) or, like my bull, during the dry season when space is at a premium, that they are most likely to attack. Staying out of their way is the best course of action. However, unfortunately, this is simply not possible for many people dependent on the river systems and living without running water.
Their speed has earned them a reputation for danger
Caught up in the tide
Of course, as dangerous as hippos can be to people, mankind too has wrought destruction on their species, and they now occupy just a fraction of their historical range. At present, the IUCN estimates there are somewhere between 115,000 and 130,000 Hippopotamus amphibius in Africa and lists their conservation status as “Vulnerable”. Though the assessors have listed the overall population trend as stable rather than decreasing, there are still many parts of Africa where hippo numbers have declined precipitously. Their close relative, the pygmy hippopotamus, is listed as “Endangered”, and there are believed to be fewer than 2,500 remaining.
The main threats facing the hippopotamids are habitat loss (as is the case for all large African mammals) and poaching for their tusks, valued in the ivory trade. They are also frequently victims of bushmeat poaching.
Yet, like other large mammals such as elephants and rhinos, hippos are important ecosystem engineers. The copious amounts of dung flung into the water by their swishing tails (much to tourist delight) provides nutrients to the many aquatic species that inhabit the waterways of Africa. Furthermore, their movement through channels and along the riverbed helps prevent a build-up of silt and moribund material, improving the river’s flow.
The greatest of beasts
When watched from a safe and comfortable distance, hippos are fascinating and delightful animals. They are also powerful, speedy and deserving of absolute respect. From the charming little calves and placid cows to playful adolescents and awe-inspiring bulls, there is something profoundly intriguing about the knowledge that we still have so much to learn…
Buffalo seen from the air in Timbavati Private Nature Reserve
Recently, five private reserves that form the Associated Private Nature Reserves (APNR) in South Africa – a vital part of the Greater Kruger ecosystem – provided Africa Geographic with the data from their 2021 population censuses. We have sifted through this APNR census information to highlight the fascinating ebb and flow of nature and how reserve managers have to balance this against anthropogenic stressors to preserve the integrity of the ecosystem.
To do this, we start by looking at some of the key points from our analysis and provide important context for interpreting the results before breaking down the population trends for certain important species and families. [Editorial note: Due to security concerns, rhino trends and numbers have been omitted.]
INTERPRETING IN CONTEXT
Wildlife counts are invaluable for reserve management teams but cannot be viewed in isolation. CONTEXT IS EVERYTHING, and while each member of the APNR conducts their own census every year (resources allowing), it is a connected ecosystem. Ideally, these population censuses should be interpreted in combination with those of the Kruger National Park because they share an unfenced ecosystem. This is particularly true for animals with massive home ranges like elephants, buffalo, and wild dogs.
The counts have the potential to be meaningless without context and informed interpretation. Once the numbers are known, the real work begins for ecologists and managers – sorting through what is or isn’t important or relevant (or even natural) and finding explanations for anomalies.
Interpretation involves consideration of many different aspects, including climate (rainfall in particular), increased land area (the addition of Thornybush Game Reserve to the APNR in 2018, for example) and the impact of other species.
It is important to note specific correlations as the overabundance or scarcity of key species can significantly impact both the environment and other species.
No count is ever 100% accurate and only provides a snapshot in time, so analysing trends is essential.
This is not to say that individual results are insignificant. Local precipitous declines or overpopulations can indicate a serious problem that may not always have a natural or apparent cause.
THE ASSOCIATED PRIVATE NATURE RESERVES (APNR) – BACKGROUND
The 197,885 ha APNR is an association of privately owned reserves on the western edge of the Kruger National Park. Initially, the APNR consisted of just three reserves: Timbavati Private Nature Reserve (53,395 ha), Klaserie Private Nature Reserve (60,080 ha), and Umbabat Private Nature Reserve (17,910 ha). These three reserves removed their fences bordering the Kruger National Park in 1993. Balule Private Nature Reserve (55,000 ha) joined the association just over a decade later, and the fences between Balule and Klaserie dropped in 2005. Thornybush Game Reserve (13,866 ha) became the fifth reserve to join when the fences between Thornybush, Klaserie and Timbavati were removed in 2018.
The combined APNR comprises nearly two-thirds of the entire Greater Kruger – 344,000 hectares (860,000 acres) of protected land to the west of Kruger National Park that provides a more substantial area for wildlife to roam freely. Other members of the Greater Kruger include the Sabi Sand Reserve, Manyeleti Game Reserve, Letaba Ranch Game Reserve, and Makuya Nature Reserve. Land use varies from private leisure to photographic tourism and trophy hunting on some properties. For those reserves that conduct hunting, wildlife censuses are necessary to set appropriate quotas each year.
A WORD ON COUNTING
Counting wild animals is an enormous and costly exercise that requires that adaptive techniques for each species be balanced against the economic and logistical realities of each reserve. The APNR alone is roughly the size of Mauritius. The vast majority of the counts are conducted by air, with counters, spotters and data recorders spending days hanging out of a helicopter or plane. These are highly skilled individuals capable of not only spotting the animals but also often able to provide a breakdown of the demographics (males, females, and juveniles) of every animal seen. The counts are conducted towards the end of the dry season when vegetation cover is minimal, and the animals are more visible.
Larger animals like elephants and buffalo are generally easier to count (and fewer in number than, say, impala), so population estimates tend to be more accurate. Large herds (like breeding herds of buffalo) can be photographed, and these high-resolution images can then be used to count individuals. Though all animals spotted from the air are recorded in each census, common sense plays a role in interpretation. For example, a sighting of only one lion in Thornybush’s 2021 aerial count does not mean that there is only one lion on the reserve.
Furthermore, though predators are often spotted from the air, aerial counts do not provide accurate population estimates, particularly for cryptic animals like leopards and some smaller carnivore species. As a result, some reserves use camera traps and sightings information and conduct call-ups for their predator census. A call-up count involves placing bait and playing the sound of a prey species in distress over a speaker. The sound generally attracts the lions, spotted hyenas, and the occasional leopard and smaller carnivore. Wild dogs (painted wolves) and cheetahs are less likely to respond, even during the day and alternative methods have to be implemented if a population estimate is required. These predators also have large home ranges and regularly move in and out of reserves.
Predator populations are fluid and dynamic, fluctuating depending upon a variety of circumstances, including both inter- and intraspecific competition.
The majority of census counts are conducted by air, with counters, spotters and data recorders spending days in helicopters or planes
TRENDS AND THE 2016 DROUGHT IN GREATER KRUGER
The idea of a “stable” population is somewhat misleading, as there is no such thing in nature and, in reality, long-term wildlife populations fluctuate, ideally within a sustainable range. This range is determined by the carrying capacity of the reserve, dictated by geography, climate and flora of the landscape. Even when a once-off disaster (a disease outbreak or drought) causes a more dramatic decline in numbers, the species concerned often recover, provided their previous numbers were sufficiently robust.
The ebb and flow is evident throughout the data from all five reserves, especially concerning buffalo numbers during and after the 2015/2016 drought. Though the number of buffalo dropped substantially during the drought period, it is important to note that this is largely accounted for by the movement of buffalo herds to more favourable habitats to the east (in the Kruger National Park). Trends such as these emphasise the importance of large connected habitats. The 2016 drought was the first drought experienced since the removal of fences between the APNR and the Kruger National Park. This, in turn, allowed for greater ecological resilience in the face of extreme conditions.
Even as rainfall levels increased in later years, the return of the buffalo and the recovery of other ungulate numbers were by no means instantaneous, and lag effects were to be expected. What’s more, knock-on effects were experienced in other, less obvious ways. For example, deprived of buffalo, resident lions would have been forced to rely more heavily on other species for sustenance. There is also a seasonal change in prey species selection, with more wildebeest killed by lions during the wet season and weakened buffalo targeted during the dry season.
Entire APNR – Elephant numbers in the APNR have gradually increased since 2004, when the population stood at around 1,038. The population peaked in 2018 (3,297). In 2021, the total count from all five reserves was 3,144 elephants.
Balule – Balule has seen the most significant increase in elephants utilising the property over the past four years – 86%. 1,053 elephants were counted in 2021, representing the highest population (and density) of the five reserves. The demographics of the elephants entering Balule have also gradually changed since the reserve opened to the rest of the APNR in 2004. Initially, young males dominated, but today, breeding herds and calves are firmly in the majority.
Klaserie – 718 elephants were counted in 2021, increasing 62% since 2017.
Timbavati – 875 elephants were counted in 2021, compared to the 465 in 2017 (a nearly two-fold increase).
Thornybush – When Thornybush dropped its fences in 2018, the number of elephants in the reserve shot up from just over 50 individuals to 349. The population peaked at 770 before decreasing to 368 again in 2021. This increase and then decrease could be explained by the after-effects of the drought and the return of good rains in subsequent years. The dense, nutritious habitats that dominate much of Thornybush were more attractive to elephants until the flora in other regions recovered, resulting in some of the herds dispersing.
Umbabat – 130 elephants were counted in 2021. However, Umbabat elephant counts have varied considerably over the past four years, possibly explained by its relatively smaller size and close proximity to the Kruger National Park.
APNR’s elephant population peaked in 2018 at 3,297/ In 2021, the total count was 3,144 elephants
BUFFALO
Buffalo counts are highly variable due to the nature and movements of buffalo herds
Entire APNR – During (and almost exclusively due to) the 2015/2016 drought, the APNR buffalo population dropped from 7,291 to 2,251 in just two years. However, numbers have been slowly increasing with a couple of years’ worth of good rains, and the 2021 count stands at 3,725. Individual counts from the various APNR reserves are highly variable due to the nature of buffalo herds and the “snapshot” of the count. A breeding herd of over 500 may decide to leave the property the day before a count or arrive a day after. This is one area where an overall trend is more revealing.
With good rains over the past few years, buffalo numbers have been slowly increasing
PREDATORS
LION AND SPOTTED HYENA
Balule – Balule has experienced substantial growth in its lion population over the last decade. However, the verified numbers from the 2020 and 2021 censuses indicate a stabilisation and a minor decline, from 137 to 124 individuals. Curiously, Balule’s lion population has been nearly double that of neighbouring Klaserie and Timbavati in recent years. This could be partly explained by high prey biomass, but of particular interest is the high proportion of mature and young males in Balule compared to “normally” observed demographics. The managers theorise that may be due to the reserve’s geographical location. Young dispersal males may be pushed continually further west until they reach Balule, which marks the western boundary of this section of the Kruger ecosystem, where they can go no further without breaking out of the protection of the reserve. However, this leaves unanswered questions about Klaserie as the immediate neighbour to the east (see below).
Typically, high lion densities are associated with lower spotted hyena numbers, but this is not the case in Balule. 96 individual spotted hyenas were identified during the 2021 predator census, suggesting that spotted hyena densities in Balule are roughly on par with the surrounding reserves.
Klaserie – Klaserie’s call-up predator census in 2021 yielded a count of just 18 lions, compared to around 40 and 50 in 2020 and 2019, respectively. Naturally, this does not represent the reserve’s total lion population. However, this is a significant drop from previous years, and the call-up counts of 2021 were dominated by spotted hyena responses (80%). 141 spotted hyenas were counted in the 2021 census, compared to just under 80 the previous year. Lions and spotted hyenas are in direct competition, and a rise in hyena numbers could account for lower-than-expected lion populations.
Timbavati – According to the reserve ecologists, Timbavati has a population of between 55-60 lions which is in line with the long-term trend of the reserve.
Thornybush – The current resident lion population on Thornybush numbers 26 individuals. Reserve authorities estimate between 25 and 30 spotted hyenas.
Umbabat – The lion population was estimated at around 12 to 16 individuals, belonging to between two and three prides. The hyena numbers are believed to be approximately 50 to 60, and reports suggest that the population is growing.
Typically, high lion densities are associated with lower spotted hyena numbers, but the most recent census data in the private nature reserves around Kruger show surprising results
LEOPARDS
Entire APNR – Leopards are notoriously difficult animals to count, and those that do respond to call-ups are not representative of the total population. Klaserie and Umbabat anecdotally report healthy populations of leopards. The most robust data comes from Balule and Timbavati.
Balule – The Balule predator census combined call-up results with sightings data and camera trap images. The identification of individuals helped in this process, and Balule confidently estimates the number of leopards at around 76.
Timbavati – Timbavati has been conducting surveys of their leopard population since 2013 (except for 2020 due to COVID). In conjunction with the South African Leopard Monitoring Project (a cooperative effort between the NGO Panthera, SANBI and other partners), camera trap surveys have provided reliable long-term trends for the reserve. The reserve leopard monitoring reports note a significant drop in leopard densities in 2019. While the 2021 data records a slight increase, there has still been a concerning decline of 50% between 2018 to 2021. It is important to note that this decline refers to leopard densities, measured in the number of leopards per 100km2. Interestingly, the number of adult males and females has remained consistent between 2019 to 2021, but the number of young males appears to have decreased. The report offers a couple of suggested explanations for this, including lion movements, but emphasises the importance of long-term trend monitoring to inform management practices.
Leopards are difficult to count, and tallies are not necessarily representative of the total population
WILD DOGS
Entire APNR – Wild dogs utilise enormous home ranges except when packs are denning, before the pups can keep up. A pack counted on Balule one day could easily turn up on a neighbouring property the next day. As such, precision counting is next to impossible. Nevertheless, anecdotal evidence suggests that the APNR wild dog population is healthy and possibly even growing.
Balule – 22 wild dogs were recorded in Balule: three packs of five and one pack of seven individuals.
Klaserie – Reserve authorities report that wild dog populations have flourished in Klaserie in recent years, possibly due to water abundance, favouring impala population growth. The single largest pack size recorded on the reserve was 50 individuals!
Thornybush – At the time of writing, two packs regularly use Thornybush. One pack of six individuals is currently denning on the reserve.
Umbabat – Wild dog sightings are regularly reported in Umbabat, with pack sizes varying from eight to 30 individuals.
GIRAFFE
Entire APNR – Giraffe numbers in the APNR peaked at 1,127 in 2018 and have since remained stable when all five reserves are considered as a unit.
Giraffe numbers have remained stable
BLUE WILDEBEEST, KUDU, IMPALA, WATERBUCK AND WARTHOG
Entire APNR – Balule has recorded a significant decline in blue wildebeest (-57%), kudu (-44%), impala (-37%), waterbuck (-54%) and warthog (-63%) from 2018 until 2021. Population peaks and troughs have probably occurred naturally for millennia (especially before and after a drought). However, it is interesting that the same trend is not entirely mirrored in the counts from other APNR members. Where declines in the other reserves occurred over the same period, as was the case for impala, kudu and wildebeest numbers, the drop in populations was not nearly as substantial. The only comparable drop was seen in warthog numbers in Klaserie, which also decreased 61% (from 236 to 91) between 2018 and 2021. Waterbuck numbers increased in Klaserie and Thornybush, and kudu numbers nearly doubled in Umbabat.
Determining an exact explanation for this trend is just one example of the challenges that face those managing these wild spaces. Was it caused by increasing vegetation thickness making counting challenging? Could it be attributed to Balule’s comparatively high lion, hyena, and elephant densities? Is it just part of a natural cycle, or is there another, unseen explanation?
A summation of the entire APNR’s wildebeest, kudu, waterbuck and warthog numbers, and impala numbers
OTHER NOTEWORTHY POINTS
Balule’s census indicates a concerning drop in crocodiles counted, down from over 120 in some years to just 30 individuals. The authors of the census report suggest that this warrants further investigation. In addition, comparing counts in the Kruger National Park would be interesting, as the Olifants River flows west through Balule and into the Kruger. It may be a counting artefact but could also indicate a problem with the health of the river ecosystem.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Counting animals comes with challenges (and strained eyes), but analysing the data is a far more cerebral and long-term exercise. Wildlife counts are vital to understanding any wilderness and significantly impact management decisions. Accurate population estimates and trends aid short-term and long-term decisions (like waterholes or hunting quotes, for example) and identify potential problems while there is still a chance to remedy them. However, an overarching perspective is often invaluable in the case of connected ecosystems – be it the APNR, the Kruger ecosystem, conservancies in East Africa or Transfrontier conservation areas.
What do you think about the ebb and flow of various species numbers in the APNR? We’d love to hear your thoughts. Follow the instructions below to download our APP and share your comments – it’s free!
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Exciting news is that our app now empowers you to play a bigger role in planning your own safari. You can now select lodges from the ‘Travel with us’ tab by place (country, reserve name) and add them to your ‘wishlist‘. Our team are on stand by to mould your wishlist into a life-changing safari – when you are ready. You can also toggle between map view and list view, select non-malaria options and see prices in the currency of your choice.
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Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
?? We have a winner! ??
Sound the trumpets, beat the drums – see the conquering heroes come! This week, we reveal the winner, runners-up and highly commended images from Photographer of the Year 2022. We’ve celebrated epic Africa through impeccable images from some of the world’s most talented photographers.
Thank you to every photographer who courageously shared your valuable art with us, so that we may all experience Africa as you have. Your skill and creativity have brought this magic right to us – and for that, we thank every one of you.
Happy celebrating Africa to you all!
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Evolution is one of those things that happens so slowly that we can’t really see the changes, right? Well, not entirely, as it turns out. Did you know that in certain animals, adaptive evolution may be occurring up to four times faster than previously believed?
Scientists looked at 19 different wild populations of birds and mammals studied over several decades to figure this out. The data utilised represent around 2.6 million hours of fieldwork and a quarter of a million study subjects! They then applied some somewhat complicated genetic models and statistics to quantify the rate of evolution.
3 Epic safaris to do before you kick the bucket. Not all safaris are born equal. Some are so special by the very nature of what they offer that even our seasoned teamAG consultants feature them in their personal ‘must-do’ lists.
And, for the lovers of art, we have one place left on this popular art safari in Manyeleti Game Reserve in the Greater Kruger. This last place is for ladies only because you will share the room with another woman. Join professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls, who will share advice and tips in the field and back in camp.
Wildlife viewing is excellent – Manyeleti boasts regular sightings of the Big 5 (lion, leopard, rhino, elephant, buffalo) and other species such as zebra, hippo and giraffe. Predators such as cheetah, hyena and African wild dogs are also regularly encountered.
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“Earlier this year, I went on an epic 17-day Kenya safari with AG. We searched for and found super tuskers and endangered hirola in Tsavo and Amboseli. In Mara we had great leopard, lion, serval and cheetah sightings. I stayed at Satao Camp (Tsavo East), Satao Elerai Camp (Amboseli) & Sentinel Mara Camp (Maasai Mara) and, bookingwith AG, I received a great rate. So when it came down to it, I saved US$ 1,485 on my trip. Plus, I got some iconic shots of elephants against the backdrop of Kilimanjaro to boot.”
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Announcing… ?? the winners of Photographer of the Year 2022 ??! We’ve waited on this moment with bated breath, and the results do not disappoint. The winner and two runners-up will share the princely sum of US$10,000 and join their partners and our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana, where they’ll take more wonderful snaps of our wildlife, landscapes and people.
What a feat – we have reached the summit of Photographer of the Year 2022 – after traversing 7,389 glorious entries, which rendered 344 images selected in our weekly galleries. We’ve narrowed these wondrous images down to 14 highly commended, two runners-up, and one ultimate winner.
Over the past few months, we’ve witnessed authentic Africa come to life. We’ve been granted rare otherworldly glimpses into the ocean’s depths and onto the peaks of the continent’s tallest mountains, into rare species, ethereal treescapes, and some uncanny creatures in compromising positions. We’ve witnessed wondrous wildlife caught in junctures between survival and demise and in moments of calm and affection. We’ve been transported by visceral images of intimate human rites and rituals, and our understanding of the natural world has been tested and enlightened, igniting introspection and inspiration. From victorious wins to desperate losses, from new life to untimely death, we’ve realised that the great continent will never cease to surprise us. All of our entrants found themselves in precisely the right place at the right time, and through their skill and creativity, they have brought this magic right to us – and for that, we thank every one of you.
I gush over these enlightening experiences as it bears repeating that the selection process was tough. But our chosen winners are right where they belong. They have evoked emotion, told explicit tales and captured true Africa with artistic and considerate skill. Thank you to everyone who fearlessly laid the wares of your efforts and skill bare so that we may experience Africa as you have.
Lastly, we offer thanks and gratitude to our sponsors, Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection, whose epic prizes are the most fitting reward for the endeavours of these excellent photographers.
WINNER – PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR 2022
Last seconds of life. A mother zebra makes one final attempt to separate her foal from its pursuant – but fails. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya.
Judges’ comment:
There is something about this dramatic capture of a split-second in the lives of this cheetah and zebras that transcends the many predation photos that we receive for consideration. The desperate battle for survival is etched on their faces, and a final goodbye between mother and child emphasises the raw emotional energy of the moment. This is the first predation photo to win Photographer of the Year.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“That morning, we decided to follow four cheetahs on the hunt. We followed them for hours. We passed herds of topis, gazelles, and zebras. We knew something was going to happen. When, five hours later, our Maasai guide whispered, ‘they are going for the zebras,’ I was convinced they would attack the topis or gazelles dotted across the valley. Seconds later, the cheetahs burst into a small group of zebras. One cheetah ran towards us, clinging onto a foal. In those seconds, I took this picture of the mother zebra launching a last attempt to push her foal away from the attacking cheetah. She failed. I will remember those last seconds for the rest of my life.”
About photographer Alex Brackx
Alex Brackx is a wildlife photographer who teaches languages in Belgium. He started to pursue nature photography in 2010 while travelling in South and Central America. Through further travels in Asia, Belarus, Finland, and again South America, he began to hone his craft, travelling to film and take photos of wildlife. For Alex, it is a thrill to photograph his observations of animals, birds, landscapes, jungles, deserts and oceans.
The explosion of colour against the restless energy of the waves, with backlighting courtesy of the sun, combine with the photographer’s patience and technical skills to create an exceptional capture. The ocean’s creatures are largely hidden from us, so otherworldly. This image helps us cross the divide; hopefully, enough of us will listen when we are told that our future depends on healthy oceans.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“Sandy anemones are native to the very shallow waters around the coasts of southern Africa. Those living in rock pools are greatly dependent on tidal and wave action for their survival. These actions bring nutrient and oxygen-rich water to these mostly stationary creatures. When there is not enough ‘fresh’ water, the anemones will close up, and the landscape will become rather barren-looking. But when these pools are full of water, a kaleidoscope of colours can be seen. It’s as if they celebrate life as they are so vividly reminded about the fragile line between feasting and starving with each tidal change.”
About photographer Geo Cloete
Geo Cloete is a multifaceted artist with a degree in architecture from Nelson Mandela Bay University. His photographic works have been recognised through various photographic competitions. Geo has completed award-winning works in architecture, jewellery, sculpture, and photography. As a life-long “aqua man” with an undying love for the ocean, it’s been his passion to share the beauty, splendour and exquisiteness of the underwater world through his photographic projects. Geo strongly believes in the notion that we only love that which we know, and we only protect that which we love. In 2016, in recognition of his contributions to ocean conservation, Geo was selected as a partner for Mission Blue, an organisation that inspires action to explore and protect the ocean.
The mystical impression that this sunbird is carrying a drop of precious liquid to some sacred place makes this a unique capture. Of course, split-second timing was required, and the photographer spent ten days working the scene.
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“I am passionate about bird photos, and during my trip to Senegal, I sprained an ankle. I could not walk for days. But I noticed that sunbirds were regularly coming to drink water at a pipe that had a leak. It seemed as if these birds preferred to drink this ‘softer’ water, as the water of the Sine Saloum River is very salty. For ten days in a row, I photographed these birds at that spot. Finally, I could capture the perfect moment, as this sunbird took this water droplet into its mouth.”
About photographer Cecile Terrasse
Cecile Terrasse is a French wildlife photographer. Cecile enjoys spending time in nature, particularly observing and photographing birds. She strives to capture beautiful light and ambience in her photographs.
The explosion of colours immediately tags this capture worthy of a second look. What a wonderful celebration of a cryptic creature accessible to anybody in the right area with loads of patience. Note the flat (non-arched) posture and lack of dark colouration on the chameleon – it’s relaxed.
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“A Knysna dwarf chameleon disappears into the vibrant colours of an erica shrub. These chameleons are surprisingly common in the Garden Route Botanical Gardens, although until you get your ‘eye in’, they can be quite tricky to spot.”
About photographer Brendon White
Originally from Francistown, Botswana, Brendon spent much of his childhood enjoying the outdoors. His father’s keen interest in birds and bird photography sparked Brendon’s passion for the same when he left school. This led him to pursue a degree in nature conservation. After working in a variety of southern Africa’s diverse habitats, including four years as a field guide at Phinda Private Game Reserve, he and his wife Zandri moved to the Isles of Scilly in the UK. They now spend their free time searching for rare birds and other interesting wildlife. Without large animals to distract him, Brendon is currently working on photographing the diverse moth species that the UK has to offer.
Both the fish and the fisherman are caught in a trap. Decreasing naturally functioning habitat means fewer fish and fewer sustainable protein sources and jobs. This is another of Africa’s stories – that vital bond between biodiversity and local people.
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“Early morning at low tide, this Tsonga man speared a fish in his family’s fish kraal, which consists of a guide fence that curves towards a fish trap, allowing fish easy entry, but no escape. The Tsonga tribal authority granted his family this specific site for building the kraal. For centuries, the Tsonga people have fished the Kosi Bay lake system, using a skill passed down from generation to generation. Historically, these fish kraals provided a significant food source. In the 1990s, the numbers of these kraals trebled, leading to overfishing in the area. Today, fishermen in the area struggle to provide for their families because of the dwindling fish population.”
About photographer Hesté de Beer
Hesté de Beer hails from a family of skilled photographers, but it was not until 12 years ago that she became interested in the craft. At the time, she asked her father to introduce her to the world of photography. He is still her mentor and strictest critic. Hesté travels with her partner to distant locations around the globe to pursue the most endangered species of the animal kingdom. Through her travels, she has witnessed the adverse effects of the ever-growing human population and technology on the natural world and ancient tribes and cultures. Hesté aims to raise awareness of this plight through her photography.
This bee-eater stack had us all searching for signs of a composite image! What a celebration of these beautiful birds, movement and grace. Stunning!
Photographer and photo details – read more
“White-fronted bee-eaters are such busy birds and constantly look for insects to feed on. I arrived at the Aloe Farm’s nesting wall to find the bee-eaters flying in and out of their nests and settling on perches along the wall. There were ten bee-eaters perched next to each other: some were basking in the sun, others snacking on insects, and many were preening themselves. Suddenly, something startled them, and they took flight – allowing me to capture this image.”
About photographer Sean Davis
Sean Davis is an amateur nature photographer who has a passion for bird and wildlife photography. Working in the printing industry, he has always had a fascination with photography. In 2015, he accompanied a friend on an outing to photograph birds and the bug bit. Seven years on, Sean has travelled to many destinations in pursuit of honing his skill. He enjoys constantly learning from other inspiring photographers whilst photographing and experiencing the beauty of birds and nature across southern Africa.
The stuff of legends. This breathtaking image is for the countless numbers of wildlife enthusiasts that have tried in vain to see a black leopard, let alone photograph one, and with a kill! No further words are required.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“On the night I captured this shot of a young female leopard, I was hosting a safari with guests to spot her. This was the last of our six nights, and we had been hoping for a good view of her. She delivered spectacularly. We observed her for almost an hour, and she was clearly on the hunt. It is tough to follow a black leopard at night as they camouflage very well. We alternated spotlit scans of the area with periods of darkness in the hopes she would be successful on the hunt. And then we heard it: the unmistakable cry of an animal that had been caught. Silence followed. We scanned again. She appeared out of the shadows, carrying a dik-dik kicking helplessly. The leopard proceeded to carry the then lifeless animal toward a nearby riverbank through dense scrub. We moved to an opening where I captured her dragging the carcass over the rocks. Her eyes and the dik-dik lit up for the briefest moment against the pitch-black background before she disappeared and melted into the darkness. This encounter was beyond privileged, and I count myself extremely lucky to have been able to capture this moment.”
About photographer Nick Kleer
Nick is a wildlife guide who has been guiding for 13 years. Most of his guiding career has been spent in South Africa, where he has worked in public and private reserves. Nick has spent most of this time pursuing his greatest passion: big cats. In his spare time, he searches for big cats outside of the African continent, in destinations such as India and Brazil, searching for tigers and jaguars. For the past three years, Nick has stepped out of lodge-based guiding in favour of privately guided trips. He now travels with guests on safari trips to incredible destinations through Africa and beyond. He aims to inspire a love of wildlife through his photography and raise awareness of the importance of conservation of wild areas to make a positive impact on the world of the wild and all its inhabitants.
Excellent composition and creative post-production make for a striking portrait. The dramatic sky seems to radiate from this herder – to give him wings – and his intense stare adds to the energy of this capture.
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“We left camp around 4.30am. Even in the excited anticipation of photographing the remote tribes of Ethiopia, I dozed on and off as we rocked back and forth along the long and dusty road. Our goal was to reach the tribal village before sunrise. We wanted to capture authentic images of the people going about their morning activities. I love photographing people – I have been a professional portrait photographer all my adult life. When we arrived, the men were busy with their cattle, and I saw this gentleman standing on a small sand mound, watching over his cattle. The sunrise was full of dramatic clouds and beautiful textures. The light was flat enough to maintain detail in the man and the sky. I knelt and placed the clouds in perfect alignment. The man glanced over his cows, and I made the exposure. This will always be one of my favourite photographic moments.”
About photographer Kevin Dooley
Kevin Dooley is an award-winning wildlife, portrait and wedding photographer who grew up in Placitas, New Mexico. His interest in photography began at an early age when at 14, he was gifted with a 35mm camera. Working as an assistant photographer and darkroom technician in his father’s portrait studio, Kevin began his life-long career in photography. After completing service in the US Navy, he returned to New Mexico and opened his photography studio in Albuquerque. During the 39 years the studio has been in operation, he has received numerous awards and been published in many publications. He has also released a photography book: Wild faces in wild places. Africa has always had a special place in Kevin’s heart. He thrives on sharing this amazing place with others.
This photo tells the story of one of Africa’s true conservationists – a man who has dedicated his life to saving mountain gorillas – one gorilla at a time. Unlike many in the greater wildlife industries space, Andre Bauma has realised that for some species, we are down to every individual being vital for population stability.
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“Andre Bauma rescued the then two-month-old Ndakasi in Virunga National Park, Democratic Republic of Congo, in 2007. Poachers had killed her parents, and she was still clinging to her mother’s dead body when she was found. Carrying her to safety inside his shirt to keep her warm, Andre came to take on the role of both mother and father, sharing Ndakasi’s bed, feeding her, playing with her, and comforting her at her new home, the Senkwekwe Mountain Gorilla Sanctuary. Their bond grew stronger, with Andre often speaking of Ndakasi and the other orphaned gorillas as his children. In September 2021, despite access to specialist veterinarians, Ndakasi succumbed to illness and died in Andre’s arms, 14 years after he found her.”
About photographer Marcus Westberg
Marcus Westberg is an award-winning Swedish photographer and writer who focuses primarily on conservation topics in sub-Saharan Africa and Scandinavia. He is a photographer for African Parks, and his work is frequently found in publications such as the New York Times, Washington Post, bioGraphic, Vagabond, GEO and Wanderlust.
This is not an image to gladden the heart. On the contrary, our judges agonised over this depiction of “cruelty”. Is this wanton violence; should we suppress it because of the poor baby monkey’s lot? Or should we stay the course we chose 31 years ago to also reflect harsh reality? And that, dear reader, is why we chose this image – because the emotional rollercoaster it sparks in our minds leads to a better understanding of how nature works.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“While following a pride of lions in Zimanga Private Game Reserve early one morning, I noticed something attracted the young male lion’s attention, and I followed his gaze. He had noticed that a young vervet monkey had wandered away from the troop, foraging on the ground in dense vegetation. The vervets were oblivious to the predator, and he made his move. The noise of his hastened approach alerted the mother, and she turned to rescue her baby. Lion and mother arrived together, and opportunistically the lion turned his attention to the desperate mother. In trying to save her baby, she paid the ultimate price for her maternal instinct.”
About photographer Hendri Venter
Hendri Venter is a photographic guide at Zimanga Private Game Reserve in South Africa. He has always been enchanted by wildlife and the natural world. Growing up on a farm, he enjoyed spending time with its seemingly endless expanse of wildlife. Exploring nature by horseback and by foot, he formed a strong sense of appreciation and amazement for all things natural. He enjoys taking images that capture the endless ebb and flow of nature.
The juxtaposition of these massive Grandidier’s baobabs and the playing children makes for a telling story. The kids belong to parents that sell their wares to tourists that come to wonder at the baobabs. Without tourism money, those trees will likely go the way of much of Madagascar’s natural vegetation, and the rural villagers would have fewer livelihood options. This is one of Africa’s most compelling stories – the bond between biodiversity, local people and tourists.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“The photo was taken in August 2018. The name ‘baobab’ is derived from an Arabic term meaning ‘seed-bearing fruit’. As it takes seven years for a small tree to grow only 50cm high, some of the oldest baobabs with thick trunks are regarded as holy trees. Many people come to the trees to pray for children, money, good fortune and illness. In Madagascar, locals regard the baobab tree as sacred, and it is known as the ‘tree of life’.”
About photographer Aimin Chen
Aimin Chen is an independent photographer who spends much of her time focusing on field photography. Aimin has always loved the life and culture of Africa and hopes to continue to record more wonders of the world with her camera.
You can wait for hours while the dinosaur of birds patiently monitors a lungfish breathing hole on a floating raft of papyrus reeds. And then, nothing. Or, your patience might be rewarded with a brief glimpse of a kill – and a blurry photographic memento. Rarely do you capture the perfect shot of predator and prey. That makes this an exceptional capture worth celebrating.
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“The prehistoric-looking shoebill is an iconic bird in Uganda. My dream of photographing this bird in its natural environment led me to Entebbe. I travelled with the guide and boatman on a wooden dinghy to Mabamba Swamp, where we found one bird standing in the swamp vegetation. Our boatman was able to manoeuvre the dinghy into the ideal spot to capture the photo. But the hard work was yet to begin: we were waiting for the bird to hunt. This can take hours, as shoebills – too heavy to chase their prey – stand still for long periods, waiting for unsuspecting creatures to swim close by. But after a long wait, the bird suddenly made an attack, catching a large lungfish – grabbing a beak full of swampy vegetation in the process. It is magical to share this moment with others. What an extraordinary bird!”
About photographer Guenther Kieberger
Guenther Kieberger hails from Austria. He picked up his passion for wildlife photography ten years ago. Working as a cameraman on wildlife documentaries, he travels to many destinations on adventures around the world. His photos have been widely published in books and magazines. His photographic pursuits centre around identifying specific wildlife subjects to capture and focusing solely on the species in question throughout a photographic trip. Sharing these images with people who cannot experience these moments for themselves brings him joy.
If you have experienced the oppressive heat and enveloping, suffocating dust at the peak of the African dry season, you will live this capture with every cell in your body. The desperate search for water is written on every face as this pathfinder leads her herd to the natural spring.
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“For the past ten years, I have spent a few months a year in northern Zimbabwe, where, in untouched wilderness, one can still watch nature’s dramas unfold. In 2021, at the end of the dry season, I spent a couple of weeks at Chitake Springs in the interior of Mana Pools National Park. With dwindling food sources, soaring temperatures up to 45°C, and the daily need to drink, the buffalo were drawn to whatever water remained. I was on foot when I captured this image as the herd of buffalo arrived at the spring. Given the dynamics and unpredictability of the encounters, there is always a lot to consider when in these situations!”
About photographer Jens Cullman
Jens Cullman was born in Nuremberg, Germany, in 1969. His introduction to photography was at age 13, when he received his first camera. As a teenager, he worked with black-and-white film and image developing until he was able to acquire more sophisticated equipment. During a trip to Namibia and Botswana in 2003, Jens’ passion for wildlife photography really ignited, and he has grown in stature since then. He has won several prestigious international awards. Jens was the winner of the Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year 2020 and a runner-up in the 2019 competition. He uses his photography to create awareness about conservation issues and preserving natural habitats.
A brilliant capture of the moment when a mere glance becomes a ponder, a calculation even. Our genetic similarities aside, this image forces us to recognise another great ape as sentient and thoughtful.
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“After two unforgettable gorilla treks in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, the next step on the expedition was visiting Kibale National Park to see the chimpanzees. We found a large family group and stayed with them for some time. We were able to observe the many different personalities in the group. Some were shy and skittish, whilst others were bold. We came across this individual who was very comfortable in our presence. I felt privileged to be accepted in his presence. Some of the other family members in the group were still in the trees above, and, just like me, this chimp was regularly looking up, seemingly worried that he would be the target of fruit, urine and branches falling from the trees above.”
About photographer Johan Siggesson
Johan, an award-winning wildlife photographer, was born in Sweden. Since 2001 he has lived on the small Mediterranean island of Malta, where he recently published his first book, on the island’s wild orchids. He regularly guides photographic tours around the world. After his first safari to Kenya in 2012, he took up wildlife photography full-time. Since then, he has had great success in prestigious international photography competitions. More recently, he was appointed as a Fellow of the Malta Institute of Professional Photography and an elected member of the Swedish Association for Nature Photographers. In his new home country of Malta, a keen interest in nature is not woven into the island’s culture, nor is it a priority in politics. With both his local and international work, Johan hopes to raise awareness and appreciation for the natural world that we are all part of.
What goes where, and who owns what? A bit of fun as we are forced to concentrate for longer than the usual glance at our busy mobile phone feeds.
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“I’ve always been struck by the sense of calm projected by giraffes, and there was something almost meditative about the concentration of these two, and the demure sweep of their lashes and slow grace of their long velvet noses as they nuzzled the soil – as if they were savouring the moment. I chose my angle and held my breath as their heads moved ever closer, and they continued to brush against the earth – until they finally attained a fleeting moment of symmetry.”
About photographer Julian Asher
Born in San Francisco and currently based in London, Julian Asher has lived in cities around the world, including New York, Zurich, Berlin, and Cape Town. Julian is an award-winning photographer who will go to great lengths in the name of the perfect shot, including being duct-taped into a doorless helicopter over the Okavango Delta in Botswana. The risks have paid off – his work has won multiple awards and has been exhibited at the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History in Washington, DC. As a photographer, Julian focuses primarily on wildlife and wild places – with a particular interest in predators and their behaviour and in indigenous peoples and their traditions. He spends several months a year in the field in Africa, Asia, and Latin America. He enjoys sharing his love of the natural world by leading photography workshops and planning safaris as the founder of Timeless Africa, a triple-bottom-line sustainable travel company. Julian serves on the boards of several Africa-focused NGOs centring on conservation and education.
This leopard sliding under the electric fence of a residential wildlife estate on the outskirts of a bushveld town is a sensational illustration of peri-urban leopard survival and cunning. It’s also a sad depiction of a wild creature “navigating between two prison cells”, as one Facebook observer commented.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“The leopardess captured in this image has been the primary subject of a peri-urban leopard identification project that I started over three years ago. Her territory includes a disturbed landscape with a large human presence. Despite this, she has found a way to survive while evading our detection almost entirely and has successfully raised at least three litters of cubs to independence. I was determined to capture an image which showcased her remarkable versatility, so I set out to look for her, day after day, night after night. After almost two years of failed attempts, fortuitous circumstances finally intervened. On a late afternoon game drive, my wife and I spotted the leopardess and one of her cubs outside the perimeter fence line. I reversed the vehicle to a respectful distance and cut the engine. Though these leopards are hypersensitive to human presence, I was certain they had a kill on the wildlife estate, so they would need to enter underneath the electric fence. I waited until the mother leopard emerged from the roadside thickets and effortlessly slid underneath the electric fence. I witnessed the leopard’s mellifluous motion through my camera’s viewfinder as the firing shutter captured her attention. Then the cub swiftly followed her mother. Now, this resilient peri-urban leopard’s story is known by many.”
About photographer Owen Gröbler
Owen is an aspiring conservation photographer based in South Africa, with a desire to highlight the challenges faced by tenacious peri-urban leopards in the Greater Kruger region. Owen has published a coffee table book, Searching for spots, about the leopards he has monitored through the duration of a leopard identification project he runs on Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate. His goal is to improve people’s mindsets toward human-predator co-existence and encourage the protection of the natural habitat. Although Owen has a deep love for leopards, he is a nature enthusiast who enjoys birding and the challenges that wildlife photography presents. Travelling to wild spaces and capturing unique moments is where he feels most at home.
Mom’s massive foot gently cradling her tiny baby seems to curve around that delicate ear. A touching, tender moment that so defines elephants and makes us want to spend time with them.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“This photo was taken during a visit to Kruger National Park in December 2021. It was a scorching day near Punda Maria when we spotted a large herd of elephants making their way down to the river to quench their thirst and cool off in the water. One female elephant was not interested in joining the fun and was just standing still. At first, I thought she was injured or sick, but as we drove closer, I noticed her tiny calf resting peacefully at her feet in the shade that she provided. An epitome of a mother’s love and protection of her little one.”
About photographer Ilna Booyens
Ilna Booyens is an award-winning wildlife photographer whose work has been featured in numerous publications. She has always been drawn to the bushveld’s sights, sounds, and smells. Her passion for wildlife photography started in 2015 when she was gifted with a camera. She enjoys the connection developed with the natural world when photographing its wonders. Ilna spends as much time as possible in the bushveld, testing her patience and perseverance by braving extreme weather conditions and driving for hours to find the perfect subject.
Announcing… ??the finalists for Photographer of the Year??. After much deliberation over the past few weeks, we’ve narrowed down 7,389 submissions to 44 truly exceptional images. Kick-start your weekend with an endorphin rush as you indulge in these marvellous images.
The scourge of rhino poaching has policymakers seeking creative solutions. In 2021, discussions on rhino-horn trade were floated by Barbara Creecy’s High-Level Panel – sparking highly polarised debate. Would the farming of rhinos prevent illegal trade in wild rhino horn? In our third story below, we examine the research into the preferences of the actual consumers of rhino horn – which has a significant bearing on the potential impact of legalising the trade in rhino horn.
Happy indulging in Africa to you all!
Taryn van Jaarsveld — Editor
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Did you know that rhinos make squealing noises like cetaceans (dolphins and whales)? Rhinos of all ages use this whine to communicate, though it is especially adorable when the youngsters do it. If you don’t believe me, follow the link to enjoy an enchanting pair of rhino calves squealing for their lunch.
It’s cute, right?
Over 100 rhinos have been massacred in Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park in South Africa in just five months. We could debate the merits of trade (see our story below) in circles for eternity and would likely never reach a consensus, but we are running out of time to act. South Africa’s rhinos are vanishing in front of our eyes. Though if Minister Creecy is to be believed, it is simply increased anti-poaching measures in Kruger (and not dwindling rhino numbers) that has sent poachers scurrying to Kwa-Zulu Natal …
The BEST VALUE in the Maasai Mara right now?Our 6-day safari at the intimate Enkewa Camp in the southeastern Maasai Mara ecosystem. This eco-friendly camp is owner run, so expect attention to detail and a homely feel – ideal for singles, couples and groups seeking to recharge their batteries and enjoy traditional Kenyan hospitality.
MOUNTAIN GORILLA TREKKING is the ultimate bucket-list choice amongst our safari clients. We have our popular 3-day gorilla trekking safari in Rwanda for the time-pressured traveller. Prices are excellent, even more so for SADC tourists. It’s time to tick this one off your list …
WATCH: Five minutes of calm – explore South Africa’s forest beneath the waves. Many algal forests are in decline due to warming oceans. But along South Africa’s coastline, the 1,200km-long Great African Sea Forest still thrives (05:02). Click here to watch
Here are the finalists in our 2022 Photographer of the Year! We will announce the overall winner and two runners-up in the beginning of June. They will share US$10 000 in prize money and join their partners and our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.
Here are the finalists in our 2022 Photographer of the Year! We will announce the overall winner and two runners-up in the beginning of June. They will share US$10 000 in prize money and join their partners and our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES: 
The real mystery is how they selectively pool nearly 90% of the red blood cells in one place without triggering a clotting cascade, yet they still clot when injured. The physiological explanation may have profoundly practical applications in human medicine.
WATCH: What happens when an ostrich and gemsbok come to blows? Find out in this footage of a scuffle between an ostrich trying to protect its chicks and a contentious gemsbok, captured at a waterhole in the Namib Desert, Namibia (04:56). Click here to watch
Want to plan your African safari to spot giraffe in the wild? We have 
Christina Hagen, Project Rep for Birdlife South Africa’s African Penguin Conservation project, writes on the 
So where did they go? Well, no one knows for sure, but (somewhat unsurprisingly) their disappearance seems to 
Maggie Nunley and her partner are currently on a cross-continental adventure with AG, celebrating their honeymoon. The couple started their adventure in Mgahinga National Park in Uganda and moved on to Maasai Mara National Reserve in Kenya. They are finishing off their African holiday with a trip to Chale Island off Kenya’s Diani Beach to deflate in the warm waters of the Indian Ocean.
We’ve just added the Mouse-Free Marion Project to our selection of trusted conservation and community projects.
The burgeoning popularity of social media has allowed it to evolve into a potent force with positive and negative consequences. From raising awareness to the proliferation of misinformation, social media can significantly impact conservation efforts. 
The winners of Photographer of the Year 2022 have just returned from their safari in Khwai Private Reserve, Botswana, where they stayed at Natural Selection’s 
Marina Leuzinger and family 
Louwhen Bowker, Care for Wild project rep, writes on the AG forum:
This cheetah and her cubs posed beautifully for our CEO Simon last week in Tsavo East National Park, Kenya. Simon has just returned from his safari, which was spent researching exciting destinations to add to our list of 
Meet monitor Christine Mwende and supertusker Konomoju2. Our CEO Simon spent time with them and 
Did you know that the AG app hosts a hand-picked selection of trusted conservation and community projects that are of real benefit to Africa’s people, ecosystems and wildlife? This empowers the AG tribe to offer support & donate to projects that make a difference.
App subscriber Colin West writes:
App subscriber Chanan Weiss and family travelled to Rwanda, DRC and Tanzania’s Mafia Island with AG in June. Visiting Nyungwe Forest – one of Africa’s oldest rainforests – Chanan had the joy of coming across a troop of Angola colobus monkeys. Chanan captured this intimate moment between a colobus and its baby. The Weiss family also experienced straw-coloured fruit bats on Lake Kivu’s Napolean Island, Grauer’s gorilla in Kahuzi-Biéga National Park, and mountain gorillas in Volcanoes National Park.
The AG tribe has done it again! By donating to our hand-picked 
App subscriber Richard Rolfe says:
App subscriber Angela Key travelled to Uganda with AG. ? Navigating Mabamba Swamp with expert bird guide Harriet Kemigisha, Angela got up close with a shoebill, and was finally able to photograph the dinosaur bird in person. Check out 
Ian Macallan 
App subscriber Roger Whittle says:
Alex Brackx is a wildlife photographer who teaches languages in Belgium. He started to pursue nature photography in 2010 while travelling in South and Central America. Through further travels in Asia, Belarus, Finland, and again South America, he began to hone his craft, travelling to film and take photos of wildlife. For Alex, it is a thrill to photograph his observations of animals, birds, landscapes, jungles, deserts and oceans.
Geo Cloete is a multifaceted artist with a degree in architecture from Nelson Mandela Bay University. His photographic works have been recognised through various photographic competitions. Geo has completed award-winning works in architecture, jewellery, sculpture, and photography. As a life-long “aqua man” with an undying love for the ocean, it’s been his passion to share the beauty, splendour and exquisiteness of the underwater world through his photographic projects. Geo strongly believes in the notion that we only love that which we know, and we only protect that which we love. In 2016, in recognition of his contributions to ocean conservation, Geo was selected as a partner for 
Cecile Terrasse is a French wildlife photographer. Cecile enjoys spending time in nature, particularly observing and photographing birds. She strives to capture beautiful light and ambience in her photographs.
Originally from Francistown, Botswana, Brendon spent much of his childhood enjoying the outdoors. His father’s keen interest in birds and bird photography sparked Brendon’s passion for the same when he left school. This led him to pursue a degree in nature conservation. After working in a variety of southern Africa’s diverse habitats, including four years as a field guide at Phinda Private Game Reserve, he and his wife Zandri moved to the Isles of Scilly in the UK. They now spend their free time searching for rare birds and other interesting wildlife. Without large animals to distract him, Brendon is currently working on photographing the diverse moth species that the UK has to offer.
Hesté de Beer hails from a family of skilled photographers, but it was not until 12 years ago that she became interested in the craft. At the time, she asked her father to introduce her to the world of photography. He is still her mentor and strictest critic. Hesté travels with her partner to distant locations around the globe to pursue the most endangered species of the animal kingdom. Through her travels, she has witnessed the adverse effects of the ever-growing human population and technology on the natural world and ancient tribes and cultures. Hesté aims to raise awareness of this plight through her photography.
Sean Davis is an amateur nature photographer who has a passion for bird and wildlife photography. Working in the printing industry, he has always had a fascination with photography. In 2015, he accompanied a friend on an outing to photograph birds and the bug bit. Seven years on, Sean has travelled to many destinations in pursuit of honing his skill. He enjoys constantly learning from other inspiring photographers whilst photographing and experiencing the beauty of birds and nature across southern Africa.
Nick is a wildlife guide who has been guiding for 13 years. Most of his guiding career has been spent in South Africa, where he has worked in public and private reserves. Nick has spent most of this time pursuing his greatest passion: big cats. In his spare time, he searches for big cats outside of the African continent, in destinations such as India and Brazil, searching for tigers and jaguars. For the past three years, Nick has stepped out of lodge-based guiding in favour of privately guided trips. He now travels with guests on safari trips to incredible destinations through Africa and beyond. He aims to inspire a love of wildlife through his photography and raise awareness of the importance of conservation of wild areas to make a positive impact on the world of the wild and all its inhabitants.
Kevin Dooley is an award-winning wildlife, portrait and wedding photographer who grew up in Placitas, New Mexico. His interest in photography began at an early age when at 14, he was gifted with a 35mm camera. Working as an assistant photographer and darkroom technician in his father’s portrait studio, Kevin began his life-long career in photography. After completing service in the US Navy, he returned to New Mexico and opened his photography studio in Albuquerque. During the 39 years the studio has been in operation, he has received numerous awards and been published in many publications. He has also released a photography book: Wild faces in wild places. Africa has always had a special place in Kevin’s heart. He thrives on sharing this amazing place with others.
Marcus Westberg is an award-winning Swedish photographer and writer who focuses primarily on conservation topics in sub-Saharan Africa and Scandinavia. He is a photographer for African Parks, and his work is frequently found in publications such as the New York Times, Washington Post, bioGraphic, Vagabond, GEO and Wanderlust.
Hendri Venter is a photographic guide at Zimanga Private Game Reserve in South Africa. He has always been enchanted by wildlife and the natural world. Growing up on a farm, he enjoyed spending time with its seemingly endless expanse of wildlife. Exploring nature by horseback and by foot, he formed a strong sense of appreciation and amazement for all things natural. He enjoys taking images that capture the endless ebb and flow of nature.
Aimin Chen is an independent photographer who spends much of her time focusing on field photography. Aimin has always loved the life and culture of Africa and hopes to continue to record more wonders of the world with her camera.
Guenther Kieberger hails from Austria. He picked up his passion for wildlife photography ten years ago. Working as a cameraman on wildlife documentaries, he travels to many destinations on adventures around the world. His photos have been widely published in books and magazines. His photographic pursuits centre around identifying specific wildlife subjects to capture and focusing solely on the species in question throughout a photographic trip. Sharing these images with people who cannot experience these moments for themselves brings him joy.
Jens Cullman was born in Nuremberg, Germany, in 1969. His introduction to photography was at age 13, when he received his first camera. As a teenager, he worked with black-and-white film and image developing until he was able to acquire more sophisticated equipment. During a trip to Namibia and Botswana in 2003, Jens’ passion for wildlife photography really ignited, and he has grown in stature since then. He has won several prestigious international awards. Jens was the winner of the Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year 2020 and a runner-up in the 2019 competition. He uses his photography to create awareness about conservation issues and preserving natural habitats.
Johan, an award-winning wildlife photographer, was born in Sweden. Since 2001 he has lived on the small Mediterranean island of Malta, where he recently published his first book, on the island’s wild orchids. He regularly guides photographic tours around the world. After his first safari to Kenya in 2012, he took up wildlife photography full-time. Since then, he has had great success in prestigious international photography competitions. More recently, he was appointed as a Fellow of the Malta Institute of Professional Photography and an elected member of the Swedish Association for Nature Photographers. In his new home country of Malta, a keen interest in nature is not woven into the island’s culture, nor is it a priority in politics. With both his local and international work, Johan hopes to raise awareness and appreciation for the natural world that we are all part of.
Born in San Francisco and currently based in London, Julian Asher has lived in cities around the world, including New York, Zurich, Berlin, and Cape Town. Julian is an award-winning photographer who will go to great lengths in the name of the perfect shot, including being duct-taped into a doorless helicopter over the Okavango Delta in Botswana. The risks have paid off – his work has won multiple awards and has been exhibited at the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History in Washington, DC. As a photographer, Julian focuses primarily on wildlife and wild places – with a particular interest in predators and their behaviour and in indigenous peoples and their traditions. He spends several months a year in the field in Africa, Asia, and Latin America. He enjoys sharing his love of the natural world by leading photography workshops and planning safaris as the founder of Timeless Africa, a triple-bottom-line sustainable travel company. Julian serves on the boards of several Africa-focused NGOs centring on conservation and education.
Owen is an aspiring conservation photographer based in South Africa, with a desire to highlight the challenges faced by tenacious peri-urban leopards in the Greater Kruger region. Owen has published a coffee table book, Searching for spots, about the leopards he has monitored through the duration of a leopard identification project he runs on Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate. His goal is to improve people’s mindsets toward human-predator co-existence and encourage the protection of the natural habitat. Although Owen has a deep love for leopards, he is a nature enthusiast who enjoys birding and the challenges that wildlife photography presents. Travelling to wild spaces and capturing unique moments is where he feels most at home.
Ilna Booyens is an award-winning wildlife photographer whose work has been featured in numerous publications. She has always been drawn to the bushveld’s sights, sounds, and smells. Her passion for wildlife photography started in 2015 when she was gifted with a camera. She enjoys the connection developed with the natural world when photographing its wonders. Ilna spends as much time as possible in the bushveld, testing her patience and perseverance by braving extreme weather conditions and driving for hours to find the perfect subject.
