a human-wildlife romance
- Laikipia combines private conservancies, outstanding wildlife and pioneering community-led conservation in central Kenya.
- Home to rare species including black rhino, Grévy’s zebra, and reticulated giraffe.
- Private conservancies allow night drives, walking safaris, horse riding and exceptional wildlife encounters.
- Luxury lodges offer exclusive safaris with expert guides and outstanding conservation experiences throughout.
- Pairs perfectly with the Maasai Mara for a complete and diverse Kenya safari itinerary.
- Laikipia is one of Africa’s most reliable destinations for spotting the elusive black leopard in the wild.
Want to visit Laikipia to witness its wildlife up close? Check out our ready-made safaris to Laikipia here. Or let our travel experts plan the perfect sustainable African safari for you.
“It was not just the beauty and wildness of the landscape. It was not just the smells, intense of dust and elephant, of jasmine and moonflower, nor the incredible concert of birds singing with liquid voices in the golden afternoons. It was not just the profile of the hills and the short purple sunsets, nor the vivid colours of the hibiscus and of the sky and of the yellow grass, nor the emotions of a sudden rustle of leaves of a scared francolin while I was walking alone in the bush, nor the surprise of the leopard, still as a statue in the full moon.”
As Kuki Gallman so vividly describes in her iconic novel, I Dreamed of Africa, Laikipi is a land of staggering natural beauty and biodiversity, enriched by complex cultural strands of human history and influence. The plateau is a mosaic of wildlife conservancies, ranchlands, rangelands and commercial farms that bridge the gap between East Africa’s savannas to the south and the arid lands of the Horn of Africa to the north. Here, endangered species often roam alongside Boran cattle and camels across a conservation landscape unlike any other in Africa.
The basics
Laikipia (‘treeless plain’ in Maa) is one of Kenya’s 47 counties, covering an area of 9,500km2 (950,000 hectares) and part of the much broader Ewaso ecosystem. The Ewaso Ng’iro River flows north-east through the county, fed by tributaries flowing off Mount Kenya’s glaciers. For the most part, the entire region is open to wildlife and fences are limited to the wetter southern areas where farming is more prevalent, and human-wildlife conflict is a common occurence.
The landscape is dominated by ancient gneisses, which form rocky outcrops and hills, while the western lava sheets bear testament to the tumultuous history of the Great Rift Valley. The Aberdare Mountains run along Laikipia’s southwestern boundary, while Mount Kenya’s shadow looms large to the southeast. Most of the county lies at altitudes over 1,500m, so, despite lying across the Equator, the climate is relatively cool and temperate, becoming increasingly dry towards the central and northern regions.
A different kind of wild space
Apart from Mukogodo and Rumuruti Forest Reserves, none of Laikipia’s various wildlife areas has formal protected status (that is, none of them is a game reserve or national park). Instead, the guardianship of the wilderness is based on the Kenyan conservancy model. Here, the lines between wild spaces and humanity are blurred. Many of the properties involved in wildlife conservation and tourism combine these efforts with raising livestock. Several group ranches are operated by community-owned companies, many of which have devoted their efforts to conserving vast swathes of land.
Scattered throughout Laikipia are privately owned and community-managed conservancies supported by a thriving conservation and tourism industry. Today, the Laikipia Conservancies Association brings together 32 member conservancies and ecolodges, collectively protecting more than 4,100 km² (over 414,000 hectares) of connected wildlife habitat. Together, these conservancies form one of Africa’s largest and most successful privately managed conservation landscapes. Some of the major conservancies include:
| Ol Pejeta Conservancy | 360km2 (36,000 hectares) |
| Ol Ari Nyiro (also known as Laikipia Nature Conservancy) | 365km2 (36,500 hectares) |
| Naibunga (a group ranch composed of 9 ranches) | 477km2 (47,700 hectares) |
| Loisaba Conservancy | 230km2 (23,000 hectares) |
| Borana Conservancy (contiguous with Lewa Conservancy) | 130km2 (13,000 hectares) |
| Il Ngwesi (a group ranch) | 93km2 (9,300 hectares) |
| Lekuruki Conservancy | 92km2 (9,200 hectares) |
| Ol Jogi Conservancy | 240km2 (24,000 hectares) |
| Sosian Conservancy | 97km2 (9,700 hectares) |
| Ol-Lentille Conservancy | 162km2 (16,200 hectares) |
The above list of operational conservancies is complemented by several unfenced private ranches, many of which offer their own intimate safari experience. Together, conservancies, community organisations, landowners and conservation partners manage this vast ecosystem as one of Africa’s most successful conservation landscapes. It is also open to the renowned Lewa Wildlife Conservancy to the east and attached to the Mount Kenya Forest and National Park to the southeast.
Laikipia’s precious wildlife treasures
The plateau’s gradual transition from intensive livestock farming to wildlife haven is a testament to the success of a progressive and inclusive conservation approach. Laikipia’s heterogeneous landscapes now offer some of the most magnificent wildlife viewing in Kenya, from the standard Big 5 experience to more unusual and elusive creatures.
The county is home to the second-largest elephant population in Kenya, and many of these herds now migrate north to Samburu during the two rainy seasons. Naturally, big cat sightings are regular and always exciting, but equally enthralling are the opportunities to spot the sloping back of a striped hyena, the absurdly elongated neck of the peculiar gerenuk and the spear-tipped horns of the Beisa oryx.
Laikipia has also become one of the world’s best destinations to see melanistic (“black”) leopards. These extraordinary cats are not a separate species but ordinary African leopards carrying a rare recessive genetic mutation that produces an overabundance of dark pigment. Though they appear entirely black, their characteristic rosette pattern remains visible in bright sunlight. For decades, black leopards in Africa were considered little more than legend, with only unconfirmed reports and a handful of historical records.
That changed in 2018, when camera traps in Laikipia produced the first scientifically documented photographs of a wild African black leopard in more than a century. Since then, the region has become synonymous with these elusive cats, with several individually recognised animals inhabiting a handful of conservancies. The most famous is Giza Mrembo (“Beautiful Darkness” in Swahili), a female whose life has been closely followed by guides and photographers as she matured from a cub into a successful hunter. Despite her conspicuous dark coat in Laikipia’s relatively open woodland, she has adapted remarkably well, relying on stealth, speed and intimate knowledge of the terrain to hunt prey such as dik-dik. While sightings can never be guaranteed, Laikipia offers the best opportunity anywhere in Africa to encounter a wild black leopard, making it a bucket-list destination for wildlife enthusiasts and photographers alike.
Part of Laikipia’s real magic lies in its inordinate concentration of endangered species, particularly rhinos. Perhaps most famously, the Ol Pejeta Conservancy is home to the last two northern white rhinos in the world, vigilantly guarded day and night. Najin and her daughter Fatu were given to the Ol Pejeta Conservancy by the Dvůr Králové Zoo in Czechoslovakia in 2009. Najin’s father – Sudan – was the last surviving male northern white rhino, but he died in 2018. Scientists continue to advance an ambitious assisted reproduction programme using stored northern white rhino genetic material and southern white rhino surrogate mothers. While significant progress has been made, Najin and Fatu remain the last two northern white rhinos on Earth.
White rhinos aside, Laikipia is also home to nearly half of Kenya’s black rhinos. Many of the conservancies and ranches have dedicated rhino sanctuaries that have contributed immensely to rhino conservation in East Africa. The county is an important stronghold for the endangered Grévy’s zebra, reticulated giraffe (also known as the Somali giraffe), and Jackson’s hartebeest (regarded as a rare hybrid between the Lelwel and Coke’s hartebeest). African painted wolves (wild dogs) course across the vast woodlands and open plains, their propensity for covering large distances supported by the size of the ecosystem available to them. The Sweetwaters Chimpanzee Sanctuary in Ol Pejeta is also the only place in Kenya where visitors can see chimpanzees, as they do not occur naturally.
Variety and adventure – the Laikipia safari experience
Apart from its remarkable wildlife, the Laikipia experience can be defined by two quintessential principles: exclusivity and freedom. The private conservancies and ranches guarantee that visitors can immerse themselves in the wilderness, free from the almost crushing pressure of tourist numbers in the more renowned national parks and game reserves.
This high-quality, low-density approach to tourism has opened up unique experiences for visitors, such as accompanying ecological teams in the field to monitor endangered species, track lions or walk with baboon troops. Variety is the order of the day, and tailored adventures are the norm in Laikipia.
Because most conservancies are privately managed, guides enjoy greater flexibility than in Kenya’s national parks. Guests can venture off-road when appropriate, enjoy guided bush walks, horse riding, camel safaris, mountain biking and night drives, experiences rarely permitted elsewhere in Kenya. Combined with low visitor numbers and remarkable wildlife diversity, Laikipia delivers one of East Africa’s most exclusive and immersive safari experiences.
Laikipia offers some of Kenya’s finest safari accommodation, ranging from stylish owner-operated bush camps to ultra-luxury lodges overlooking vast private conservancies. Many properties host only a handful of guests, creating an intimate safari experience with exceptional guiding and personalised service. Several lodges are deeply involved in conservation, allowing guests to meet researchers, trackers and anti-poaching teams while learning about the challenges of protecting wildlife beyond national parks.
Free from the rules and restrictions of national parks, the lodges offer expertly guided walks, night drives and horse safaris. Intrepid visitors can opt to explore the landscape on a mountain bike or quad bike, rolling along paths inaccessible to the average vehicle and discovering hidden nooks and crannies. Those that prefer a more sedate pace can hop on the back of a camel and enjoy the scenery from a novel vantage point, accompanied by the gentle tinkle of camel train bells.
As a general rule, Laikipia does not stint on comfortable accommodation, though there are options available to suit tighter budgets. There are a number of either community-owned or community-operated lodges for conscience-driven travellers. However, it is important to note that access to the vast majority of the conservancies and ranches is restricted to guests, and only Ol Pejeta offers access to day visitors.
Like the Maasai Mara, there are two rainy seasons in Laikipia: the ‘short’ rains in October/November and the ‘long’ rains lasting from March until June. Though rainfall levels are not as high as they are in the Mara, high rainfall may affect the activities and the wildlife viewing.
Laikipia combines particularly well with the Maasai Mara for a safari. While the Mara offers unrivalled concentrations of plains game and predators, Laikipia provides a quieter, more exclusive safari centred around conservation, rare species and varied safari activities. Together, the two destinations create one of Kenya’s finest safari combinations.
A triumph of conservation
Though Laikipia offers various habitats and experiences for the discerning visitor, these are all underscored by a common theme – authenticity. In Laikipia, the fortunes of people and wildlife are inextricably linked. This is not to say that this process has been without its own challenges, and indeed, Laikipia has seen its fair share of conflict and heartache. However, the inclusive approach that values livelihoods and biodiversity has successfully used tourism to galvanise the creation of one of the largest wilderness areas in Kenya.
The concept of individually- or community-owned conservancies should be considered a Kenyan conservation success story. Tourists that visit these conservancies and ranches play an enormous role in ensuring the future of these protected wilderness areas and supporting a continuous revenue stream for the local communities. With over 65% of Kenyan wildlife existing outside of government-protected wilderness areas, it is easy to see why conservancies will be critical to conservation efforts in the future. The sprawling plateau of Laikipia, home to some of the most endangered species in Africa and steeped in complex history, is the perfect example of this process in action.
Laikipia is unlike anywhere else in Africa. Here, world-class wildlife encounters unfold across living landscapes where conservation, communities and sustainable tourism work hand in hand. From tracking black leopards and endangered rhinos to exploring vast private conservancies on foot, horseback or game drive, every safari feels personal and purposeful. For travellers seeking exceptional guiding, remarkable biodiversity and a deeper understanding of modern conservation, Laikipia delivers one of Kenya’s most rewarding and unforgettable safari experiences.
Further reading
- Seeing a black leopard in the wild is an extraordinary feat. But Dan Peel has captured incredible photos of Laikipia’s now famous black panther. Check out these black leopard pics here
- An invasive big-headed ant in Kenya is altering tree cover, opening the savanna and reducing lions’ hunting success in Laikipia. Read about how an invasive ant is sabotaging lion hunts in Laikipia here
- Laikipia pairs well with a Maasai Mara safari. This interesting introduction to Kenya’s Maasai Mara will have you contacting Africa Geographic to book your next African safari. Read more about Maasai Mara here
- Laikipia Plateau is one of Kenya’s 47 counties, a mosaic of wildlife conservancies, ranchlands, and commercial farms bridging East Africa’s savannas. Read more about Laikipia safaris here
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