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Tuskers death toll reaches 5 + breathtaking photos
FIVE. The death toll of giant Amboseli elephants by trophy hunting in recent months has risen to 5. These icons are protected against hunting in Kenya but not when they wander across the border into Tanzania.
In what can best be described as eco-sabotage, a small but influential cabal of Tanzanian trophy-hunting operators are driving their industry over a cliff. These morally bankrupt individuals have one goal in mind – loads of cash – and have enough clients slobbering at the mouth to bag one of the last 100-pounders before they are either protected or extinct.
Numerous trophy hunters have contacted us to express their concerns, but few have spoken out with any conviction against the rotten eggs in their industry. And there are enough ethical hunters in the online forums we monitor to stop the rot. But none of them go beyond a few words of concern.
The tourism industry, too, remains largely silent. A leading entity representing many of us – tour operators and lodges – refused to publish to their members our concern about the situation. Are we the only high-profile tourism brand prepared to speak out publicly?
Obviously, boycotting Tanzania’s tourism industry would be disastrous. That route would weaken tourism and make trophy hunting more important as a revenue generator. What we need is for more members of the tourism and broader hunting industries to stick their necks out and demand an end to this attack by a few delinquent trophy-hunting operators on the remaining tusker population across Africa.
History will judge our generation for not taking decisive action against the evil ones.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
In non-human primates, aggression is often used to maintain social order (quite the opposite of its effects in human society).
Chimpanzees have a reputation as the most aggressive of the apes – often resorting to lethal violence. But bonobos – our close relatives – were long thought of as the mellow peacemakers of the animal kingdom. But did you know that bonobos are actually quite aggressive – perhaps even more so than notoriously forceful chimps?
Researchers studying bonobos in the Democratic Republic of Congo and chimpanzees in Tanzania compared male behaviour in both species and found that acts of aggression – such as hitting, biting and chasing – were more common in bonobos. Aggressive bonobos were also more successful in mating. But, other academics have suggested that comparing aggressive behaviour in the two species is not fair, as chimpanzees are known to kill, while bonobos are not. At least the bonobos have one up on humans in that respect.
Speaking of… don’t miss our update on the trophy hunting of ANOTHER two large tuskers along the Tanzania/Kenya border below. Also, check out the important report on the state of Africa’s migratory animals, and this week’s breathtaking Photographer of the Year gallery.
This primate quest will take you to meet the apes and monkeys of East and Central Africa. From critically endangered Grauer’s gorillas and legendary mountain gorillas to charismatic golden monkeys and noisy chimpanzees, this safari is a celebration of all things primate. You’ll visit Rwanda, Uganda and DRC, and the spectacular scenery and enthralling birding are added bonuses!
This is an off-the-beaten-track safari in Kenya for those who want the magnificence of the Maasai Mara National Reserve without the crowds. Search for the Big 5, enjoy prolific bird life, and visit local Maasai villages and markets to enjoy an authentic cultural experience. You’ll stay at intimate owner-run Enkewa Camp, where you’ll feel like part of the family – while still enjoying the tranquillity of privacy.
Have you submitted your entry for Photographer of the Year 2024? There is just ONE MONTH LEFT to get your entries in. Visit our website for all you need to know, from how and where to enter, to our competition rules and the epic prizes on offer – including a conservation safari and a lion research collar sponsored in your name. Don’t miss your chance to become the next Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year!
WATCH: Akagera National Park, Rwanda, is home to Central Africa’s largest protected wetland, consisting of a complex system of lakes linked by papyrus-lined swamps. In the remote north of the park, you will find Karenge Bush Camp, perched on a ridge overlooking the wildlife-rich Kilala Plains below. Karenge is an off-the-grid getaway for safari enthusiasts seeking privacy and solitude. (06:31) Click here to watch
Migratory animals come in all forms and shapes, from bats to birds, wildebeests to whales. But most migratory species have one thing in common: they face increasing anthropogenic damage to their habitats and migratory corridors.
A report released by the United Nations Convention on the Conservation of Migratory Species of Wild Animals has shown a drastic decline in the world’s travelling animals. The conservation status of many migratory species faces dire prospects, with those occurring in Africa facing the sharpest declines.
Migratory animals migrate across national jurisdictional boundaries for a variety of reasons. Sometimes, species track favourable resources or move to different climates. Sometimes, animals are in search of optimal breeding sites (such as areas with suitable resources to feed and nourish the young safely). Sometimes, whole populations move, and sometimes, solitary individuals migrate.
But the flyways, swim ways, and migratory paths of these travelling animals have lost the resources and security previously offered. The connectivity between their departure and destination has been fragmented by land use change, pollution (noise, light, and chemical pollution), hunting, and/or climate change. How can we prioritise the same security for migratory animals, like the vultures and whales of Africa?
Why should we care?
Beyond the fact that our wildlife has an intrinsic right to exist on earth, as much as we do, these animals play valuable roles in the agricultural sector (bats and other mammals, bugs and birds are important pollinators), in our culture, as a food source and in our recreational activities (tourism, etc.). They can be ecosystem regulators and provide food for other species (prey) or regulate the abundance of different species (predators).
The Convention on the Conservation of Migratory Species (CMS) is an international framework developed to protect the travel requirements of migratory species. The latest report from the CMS indicates that more than one in five CMS-listed species are threatened with extinction, and 44% have a decreasing population trend. Worryingly, 97% of CMS-listed fish species are threatened with extinction. Fish don’t have many travel options; they can take the river – and that’s it. Significant barriers, such as dams, are not conducive to fish migration.
CMS-listed species in Africa have shown an average decrease of 27% in abundance between 1970 and 2017. But not only abundance matters – sometimes even losing individuals within a population of migratory species poses a considerable risk, especially for long-lived animals (like elephants) that rely on social learning and collective memory to successfully navigate key corridors.
When species cross countries, conservation laws and policies change too – and though a species population might be well-protected in one country, there is no guarantee that it will afford this protection in another country. For example, since commercial whaling was stopped in the 1980s, the subpopulation of humpback whales in the South Atlantic has increased. However, the subpopulation in the Arabian Sea has fewer than 350 individuals and is threatened by ship strikes and entanglement from fish nets.
The long and winding road for migratory species: threats
Unsustainable hunting and collecting affects nearly three-quarters of all CMS-listed terrestrial mammals (70%) and is particularly of concern in regions affected by political instability or poverty. Hunting of birds in western and southeastern Africa is often not monitored – this hinders the international community’s ability to tally the global impact on the species and prevents accurate quota setting.
The Serengeti-Mara ecosystem provides a prime example of how agriculture, settlements, roads and fences have caused habitat loss and fragmentation – affecting migratory routes for the Great Wildebeest Migration
The impact of ongoing human encroachment on habitats is pervasive, as is evident in the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem in Tanzania and Kenya, where the Great Wildebeest Migration occurs. Agriculture, settlements, roads, and fences change the quality and availability of habitat for the blue wildebeest and plains zebra, which in turn affects the CMS-listed apex predators, including cheetah, lion, and African wild dog, that rely on these migrations.
The increase in land use for agriculture also results in insect population declines, which removes a key food source for migratory birds. Dugongs suffer from similar issues, but their migratory habitat is seagrass, which is lost through port expansion and pollution.
The degradation of seagrass threatens the conservation of dugongs
Energy infrastructure also impacts migration, such as wind turbines, which can potentially disrupt the migratory paths of birds like the black harrier. Barriers to migration are not only from permanent infrastructure – shipping traffic has increased, and along with this, ship strikes on whale sharks and cetaceans are increasing.
Climate change has many ramifications for migrating species because they follow seasonal resources. Imagine migrating hundreds of kilometres to reach spring in your preferred breeding site, only to find that it’s still winter there.
Climate change also has other unexpected impacts on migratory species; for example, African wild dogs hunt less in extreme heat and rear fewer pups than those raising pups in cooler weather.
Climate change can affect the number of pups reared by wild dogs
So what can be done about these issues?
The CMS provides a solution-based, cooperative approach to assist migratory species in their travels. They are like a travel agency for animals, working with governments, civil society and the private sector to create connected journeys for species through difficult terrain and looming threats. For example, the CMS Energy Task Force is a global forum that guides renewable-energy activities to avoid and minimise negative impacts on migratory species.
Only through collaboration at all levels of society and sectors will we succeed in protecting our travelling fauna on their long and windy paths through this world.
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
Last week I mentioned a rather hilarious gorilla encounter in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. That got me thinking of the difference between encounters with habituated and non-habituated gorillas. Chalk and cheese. Of course, both types of encounter are with wild gorillas, but the habituation aspect of gorilla encounters in Uganda and Rwanda does result in a different experience.
During a recent expedition to Odzala-Kokoua National Park in Congo-Brazzaville, I was lucky enough to encounter non-habituated western lowland gorillas on several occasions. All of these encounters were while waiting patiently – often for many hours – in observation towers on the edge of forest clearings known as baïs. The gorillas will often leave immediately if you disturb them, sometimes screaming blue murder – a cacophony that assaults the eardrums and echoes in the confines of the baïs.
Of course habituated gorilla encounters are one of the world’s best wildlife encounters – which I recommend highly – and they raise significant amounts of money to keep mountain gorillas safe. That said, having thoroughly enjoyed both types of encounter for what they are, I found the ‘wilder’ experience in Odzala-Kokoua refreshing and less intrusive.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
And now for something completely macabre… In ancient Greece, the Scythians would sew together the scalps of their enemies to make cloaks. This is one of the earliest accounts of such morbid behaviour. But there is a creature in Africa that can one-up the Scythians – by wearing a backpack made up of the bodies of its victims.
Acanthaspis petax is an assassin bug found in Kenya and Tanzania that disguises itself by covering its body in corpses. The bug is often seen moving around with this “backpack” on its abdomen – usually made up of the empty corpses of ants. Researchers think this acts as olfactory camouflage for when the bug is hunting other ants, or as a visual distraction for larger creatures trying to hunt the bug. At least this “defense mechanism” proves very effective in deterring predators…
Below, check out Irene Amiet’s travel diary from Busanga Plains, the jewel of Kafue, and don’t miss the magnificent photos from this week’s Photographer of the Year selection.
Let us take you on an adventure. Fancy seeing all Namibia has to offer? Or perhaps experiencing the glamping safari of your dreams? Check out these once-in-a-lifetime safaris:
Experience the best of Namibia, from the red dunes of Sossusvlei and the wildlife of Etosha to the prolific bird life in Walvis Bay’s coastal wetlands. Over 13 days, your private guide will reveal the majesty of Namibia, its phenomenal wildlife and compelling historical and cultural diversity. You will have plenty of time to explore this vast country, meet local people and experience Namibia’s fauna and flora.
This is the glamping safari that dreams are made of: six days in the intoxicating Okavango Delta on a fully catered mobile safari. You’ll be led by experienced guides while exploring Khwai Community Concession and Moremi Game Reserve. Go in search of the big cats and wild dogs in the dry woodlands and floodplains, and glide down meandering waterways in a mokoro in search of hippos, elephants and avian candy.
WATCH: Odzala-Kokoua National Park is an epic destination for experiencing Congo-Brazzaville’s secretive wildlife species such as western lowland gorillas and forest elephants. Camp Imbalanga, nestled under the shady canopy of enormous trees, is an unfenced forest camp a short walk from Imbalanga Baï – one of many baïs in the park. (01:54) Click here to watch
The horizon as seen from Busanga Plains stretches in every direction and the lowering sun paints the grasslands with a gilded brush this late afternoon. Every lechwe’s horn, every stone is set aglow. The hippos’ eyes catch the metallic light as does the spray their crashing jaws create. Two male puku stand still and alert by the last of the water, their eyes trained to a spot beyond our vehicle.
Despite the cover of tall papyrus reeds, the antelopes sense danger.
Hidden from their sight are no less than twenty lions. Three generations lay outstretched on their backs, paws in the air as they roll around before falling back into a digestive coma. This pride includes such Busanga legends as the lion referred to by some as “Killing Machine”, a grandmother now, and her daughter, “Princess” as well as their sub-adult-offspring and smaller cubs from a different litter.
One cub raises on her haunches, waiting patiently for the puku to relax and lower their heads to drink before she charges at them, just as the adults have taught her. The attempt is half-hearted and the puku scatter safe of striking distance, blowing sharp warning calls through their nostrils.
This scene plays out in an area of Zambia’s Kafue National Park which is over 90 air-minutes away from the big cities of Lusaka and Livingstone, where we spent a few days exploring the plains. Stretching over 720km², Busanga Plains is at the top of the list when it comes to game viewing – as there is a low ratio of human visitors to wildlife.
The plains are only accessible between April and October when the floods have receded enough to allow for road transport but those four months offer some of the best game viewing in Southern Africa. Thousands of red lechwe and puku assemble along the receding water channels which shelter hippos and catfish.
The ancient head of a crocodile breaches the water, snapping at some unsuspecting jacana. Crowned cranes and yellow-billed storks shake their wings in airborne retreat before carefully stalking back to their fishing spot.
A southern ground-hornbill glides past like a marionette from a puppet show taken flight. Surrounding the plains are woodlands which shelter elephants during the heat of the day. The woodlands allow ample foliage for the browsers, and even for the grazers such as roan and sable antelope who may also take a selective nip here and there. And, there are plenty of spots for hyenas to build their dens. We spot all of these during a four-hour morning drive.
This game-rich habitat makes Busanga a veritable paradise for lions, many of which have been captured in documentary series such as Swamp Lions and Kings of Busanga Plains.
Early one morning, we get to witness the pride male “General” follow a female referred to as “Nala”. He stalks her along thin-stemmed acacia trees and across open plains, his mane coiffed by the breeze, a silhouette fit for a movie. Unfortunately, his intended catches sight of a young intruder who piques her interest. She makes a dash for the stranger with the golden coat, General in hot pursuit. The youngster sees the battle-scarred elder and runs for his life. Soon after, Nala’s focus is back on the old and trusted General who pursues her for three hours with intermittent rest to mark his territory.
This time of year, the plains are thirsting for water, and the clouds assemble at night only to disperse by morning. Thunder can be heard in the distance, but the sun breaks through once more. As there are no geographical restrictions, a wind often swipes across the plains, which in the warmer months can feel as if a blow-dryer was aimed at one’s face.
As the heat rises, we leave the lions, who have found a shaded spot on one of the raised patches of shrubbery and palm trees – which would be islands in the wet season.
When the sun sets, more hippos start grunting, competing for the deepest water, and we watch the grenadine red skies melt into darkness, with the occasional opened jaws breaking the dusky silhouette. Their grunts will accompany us throughout the night and blend with the lion’s deep call as we lay in our tents, immersed in this truly remote wilderness, the truest luxury of a safari experience.
Red lechwes engage in battleSibling love on the plainsA large crocodile emerges from the flooded plainsSouthern ground-hornbill in flightAcacias tower over a pride maleA tussle between hippos during the heat of the dayScarred old male “General” engaged in a slow pursuit of female, “Nala”A spotted hyena cub frollicking on the plainsEasing into an afternoon dozeBusanga Plains at dawn
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? African Parks has been responsible for the management of Kafue National Park since 2022. Kafue became the 20th park in African Park’s portfolio of stabilised and rehabilitated protected areas across the continent. Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
Kafue National Park is Zambia’s oldest and largest national park – known for sweeping plains and wetlands, and abundant and unique wildlife. Read more about Kafue here.
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
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The truth about KAZA’s elephants + mesmerising pics
I have an amusing gorilla story for you. Many years ago, I was relaxing on the verandah of a chalet in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, having just spent an epic morning birding this avian treasure trove. My lodge of choice was a few hundred meters from Bwindi’s gorilla-trekking centre in Buhoma – the starting point for all hikes in this area. Gorilla treks can last up to six or eight hours and take you deep into the forested hills.
Lo and behold, a family of mountain gorillas emerged from the dense undergrowth, ambled towards me, and settled about 10m away. This was a welcome bonus to an already superb day because normally, you have to pay a gorilla-trekking fee and hike for hours. Yet here they were at my chalet!
The cherry on top was when a party of eight tourists arrived with their guides. This was the culmination of their trek to find their allocated gorilla family group. So they settled in a few meters away to enjoy their 60 minutes of gorilla time while I, feet up on my verandah, sipped my delicious African tea and nibbled on freshly baked ginger biscuits, pretending all the while that this was not absolutely hilarious!
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Who wants to live forever?
In this week’s Photographer of the Year gallery, you will find a striking image of an ancient welwitschia captured by Wiktoria West. Like baobabs and cycads, welwitschias can live to well over 1000 years old. But did you know that there are some animals on earth that can outlive these plants, and some that can even live forever? Forget 120-year-old crocodiles, 200-year-old bowhead whales and 500-year-old clams: coral-like glass sponges can live in the deep ocean for 10,000+ years.
But, there is a group of small aquatic invertebrates, known as hydras, that have the potential to live forever. As hydras are made up of stem cells, they are able to regenerate through duplication, and don’t deteriorate as they age. They can also regrow lost body parts – even their heads. While the “immortal” hydras can die when eaten by predators, if able to avoid external dangers, (in theory) they can regenerate forever.
You can check out Wiktoria’s welwitschia and other mesmerising photos in this week’s gallery. And then, a new analysis of elephant population trends in KAZA (covering land in Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, and Zimbabwe) shows the impact of poaching and trophy hunting on elephants, slowed population growth, and negative population trends outside of protected areas – check out this important story below.
Dreaming of your bucket-list Maasai Mara safari or longing for a magical gorilla-trekking experience in Uganda? Or better yet – why not combine the two? Check out the epic safaris below, or let our travel team help you plan your dream safari
Explore the northernmost limits of the Maasai Mara-Serengeti ecosystem while skipping the migration-season crowds. Using Sentinel Mara Camp as your base, you’ll go in search of resident lion prides, cheetahs, and leopards. You’ll also find elephants, plains game, and exceptionally gorgeous sunsets – all critical ingredients to the quintessential Maasai Mara experience.
Trekking mountain gorillas is one of the most exhilarating experiences in the world – and where better to do this than Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, the birthplace of mountain-gorilla trekking? On this safari, you’ll also seek out the tree-climbing lions of Queen Elizabeth National Park and explore the biodiversity of Entebbe Botanical Gardens.
Help save poached pangolins
Remember the pangolin brought into Provet Animal Hospital around eight months ago? She was confiscated from the illegal wildlife trade and found clutching her 230-gram newborn pup which was born prematurely.
Thanks to Provet Wildlife Services and Umoya Khulula Wildlife Centre, this pangolin pup is now a very lively and feisty teenager, weighing over 5kg.
The cost of rescuing a pangolin and hospitalising it for ONE week is about US$800 (R15,000). You can help with this process by donating and lending your support to the hard-working teams who are dedicated to saving Africa’s pangolins.
Note: all pangolins are housed at offsite locations for security reasons
WATCH: Wouldn’t you rather be on safari? Check out this video for inspiration – and let Africa Geographic take you there with our unique, handcrafted safaris. (00:45) Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
A technical review of a recent census of elephant populations in southern Africa provides thought-provoking details behind the broader figures. Detailed analysis of population and carcass trends by country and region reveals the impact of poaching and trophy hunting on elephants. This granular information allows us to understand the human impacts on elephants better and empowers conservationists to make informed decisions.
[Editorial note: Useful definitions and explanations for some of the terms used can be found at the end of the article.]
At the end of 2023, the Kavango-Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area 2022 KAZA Elephant Survey results, revealing an estimated population of 227,900 savannah elephants. The magnitude of such an endeavour cannot be underestimated: KAZA covers a 520,000km2 network of landscapes across five different countries (Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, and Zimbabwe), and to count its elephants is an undeniably impressive feat. The results suggest with cautious optimism that the world’s largest population of savannah elephants remains stable.
Yet the problem with viewing this massive region through a wide-angle metapopulation lens is that vital country- and regional-level nuances are lost. Some of these missing details have essential ramifications for guiding management and conservation policies. In the space of a few months since the release of the survey report, non-governmental organisation Elephants without Borders (EWB) has produced their technical review of the results. They offer a more granular analysis of elephant population trends and compare the data with those of previous surveys to provide comprehensive context.
Some of the important questions they set out to answer included:
How and where are populations changing within countries?
Are large elephant populations in Zimbabwe and Botswana still growing?
How are elephant populations faring where hunting is occurring?
Is poaching affecting elephant populations in KAZA?
Their 36-page report, which uses more localised data to focus on trends and changes, offers detailed answers to some of these questions and more. We have summarised the more critical aspects of their findings below.
Northern Botswana’s elephants
As expected, the 2022 KAZA Elephant Survey revealed Botswana to be home to most of the KAZA elephant population (58%). In addition to this fact, there are several reasons why this region is of particular interest to policymakers and conservationists. One particularly sensitive aspect is the lifting of the elephant trophy hunting moratorium in 2019, often defended by the rhetoric of a rapidly expanding elephant population. Another is growing evidence of increased poaching activity.
According to the EWB analysis, overall elephant populations in northern Botswana have changed little between 2010 and 2022 (in direct contradiction to several government statements). At most, the report indicates a maximum growth rate of 2% per year between 2010 and 2022 and emphasises that “elephant numbers are no longer proliferating in Botswana”.
However, there are notable differences in the population trends across the different landscapes. Elephant numbers within Moremi Game Reserve, Chobe National Park, the Okavango Delta, and surrounding ecotourism regions remained either stable or increased between 2018 and 2022. Outside of these protected areas, many forest reserves, farming areas, and hunting blocks have shown negative population trends.
The authors of the EWB report also spent time separately analysing trends within the Okavango Panhandle populations. They explain their specific focus on this region as it is home to “controversial” elephant populations, plagued by perceptions of burgeoning populations and increased human-wildlife conflict. The report concludes that, once again, contrary to public government statements, elephant numbers have remained roughly stable in the Panhandle since 2010. Comparison with more recent surveys revealed an 18% decline in overall elephant numbers since 2018.
Mortalities and poaching
All carcass ratios in northern Botswana increased substantially between 2014 and 2022 (from 8.2 % to 12.4%). To put this into context, 8% is generally considered by ecologists and statisticians to be the cut-off for a growing or stable population. If the ratio is higher, mortalities likely outweigh births, resulting in a decreasing population. 63% of Botswana’s elephant population occupies regions with a greater carcass ratio than 8%. Once again, this was not a homogenous change seen across all of the areas surveyed: carcass ratios in Moremi Game Reserve, Chobe National Park, the Okavango Delta, and surrounding ecotourism regions remained either unchanged or decreased. The most significant increases were seen in the southeastern part of the study area, where elephant populations were also noted to have declined.
Equally concerningly, of all the regions surveyed in 2022, Botswana’s fresh/recent carcass ratio (mortalities within 12 months of the survey) was also the highest (0.70%) in KAZA. During EWB’s 2018 study, researchers identified several poaching “hotspots”, including parts of the Okavango Panhandle and the Khwai area. Encouragingly, fresh/recent carcass ratios were lower in these regions. However, they were raised at the border with Namibia near the Kwando and Chobe Rivers and the Savute region of Chobe. According to the 2022 KAZA Elephant Survey report, these carcasses were examined and found to have their tusks intact. However, EWB reports conducting reconnaissance flights in 2023 and 2024 (after the 2022 survey flights) and locating 56 poached elephants. Most of these were found in NG15 and NG18 (the Linyanti region just west of Chobe National Park).
This documentation of poached elephants was done over a small area, and numbers may also be high in areas not assessed, with the study noting that “this small sample is not sufficient for estimating poaching rates in an area of over 500,000 km2. More monitoring of poaching is badly needed in KAZA.”
Hunting
During their analysis, EWB compared elephant population trends in areas with and without trophy hunting to understand how hunting might affect elephant dynamics or vice versa. They found that between 2018 and 2022, the elephant numbers, on average, increased in areas without hunting and decreased significantly in those with hunting. The same pattern was observed for breeding herds and bulls, though the changes across the intervening four years were insignificant for bulls. These changes do not suggest that trophy hunting is causing an overall population decline but rather that elephants are moving from hunting to non-hunting areas (which, it should be noted, could cause complications if elephants move to areas with higher human populations – exacerbating human-elephant conflict).
The cause for these shifts remains unknown, though the authors suggest that elephants may be shifting to avoid the disturbance caused by trophy hunting. They also highlight that if these movements are a consequence of trophy hunting, they may undermine the initial reasons for reinstation and call into question its sustainability as a practice.
Angola
Though Angola and Zambia combined are home to just 4% of KAZA’s elephants, the former has gained considerable interest as a potential elephant habitat since the end of the Angolan Civil War in the early 2000s. So much so that it has even been suggested that Botswana could translocate “excess” elephants to the region. The 2022 KAZA survey reported an elephant population growth of 80% between 2015 and 2022. However, a major qualifier is attached to this statistic: the count was likely substantially skewed by a few anomalously large herds counted near the Kwando River. The authors of the EWB analysis state outright that it is implausible that Angola’s elephant population has increased to such an extent.
This interpretation is supported by the previous 2015 census, which recorded fresh/recent carcass ratios of 10% – one of the highest such ratios ever recorded in savannah elephants and one highly likely to be associated with a declining population. Between 2015 and 2022, elephants have all but vanished from the western part of the Angolan region of KAZA, and the authors recorded a 98% decline in populations along the Cuito and Kavango Rivers.
Interpreted in combination, these signs all point towards an “elephant population in trouble”. Worryingly, the EWB analysis describes Angola as an attractive population sink for elephants, meaning that elephants may move into Angola from areas of high elephant density in Botswana and Namibia but then struggle against extrinsic factors such as high levels of poaching and even landmines left behind from the years of civil war. Over time, these population sinks have the potential to contribute to broader population declines.
Zimbabwe
The 2022 KAZA Elephant Survey and subsequent EWB analysis point to largely positive news regarding Zimbabwe’s elephant populations. Populations in northwest Matabeleland and Sebungwe have remained stable (and even increased). Similarly, Hwange National Park’s numbers have remained largely stable, though there has been some internal shifting within the park (which the authors suggest could be linked to new artificial waterholes). Moreover, all-carcass and fresh/recent-carcass ratios decreased to some degree, suggesting the possibility of reduced poaching pressure in Zimbabwe.
Namibia
The EWB analysis notes that elephant numbers generally decreased along Namibia’s border with Angola (while being stable along the Botswana border).
Zambia
Due to differences in counting techniques (see below), EWB was relatively limited in its ability to formally compare the current survey to those conducted previously in Zambia and thus was unable to determine trends accurately.
However, the 2022 survey reports a worrying decline in estimated elephant populations in the Kafue region from 6,688 in 2015 to 3,840 in 2022. Even with wide confidence margins, this population reduction is concerning, and EWB authors suggest that further surveys in the Kafue are warranted.
Elephants wading in Okavango Delta
The power (and limitations) of surveys of elephants
“The 228,000 elephants estimated to occur in KAZA seems large. However, determining the health of KAZA’s elephant population requires interpreting that number in light of how it has changed from earlier estimates.” In this respect, the EWB is somewhat critical of the report from the 2022 survey, which did not include any formal trend analysis. They emphasise that the primary goal of any census should not be the count itself but rather trends over time.
One of the primary challenges faced by EWB in compiling their analysis was that the modified methodology of the 2022 survey made comparisons with surveys of previous years more challenging. In particular, stratum boundaries were changed from preceding surveys, making it difficult to compare results and investigate trends. In some instances, EWB overcame these differences by reformulating previous data to match the new methodology as closely as possible. However, the strata for Zambia were so changed that any simple comparisons between years were impossible.
The authors suggest that even when a survey is conducted without the intention of detailed trend analysis, it should still be structured to facilitate the process. They conclude that the best way to do this is to keep the stratum boundaries consistent, or if change is necessary, such changes should be made “with a nod towards facilitating comparison.” It is unclear why the strata for the 2022 survey were altered.
Final thoughts on KAZA’s elephants
The Kavango-Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area is conservation on a grand scale – designed to promote resilient habitats and animal populations. Population overviews such as the one provided by the 2022 survey are undeniably important, especially for a species as impactful as elephants. It is deeply encouraging that the overall numbers of elephants are stable.
However, detailed analysis allows for detecting nascent threats before they have disastrous effects on a population. As the authors of the EWB report conclude, “managers need accurate and detailed information about how and where elephant populations are changing to effectively manage KAZA’s 227,900 elephants”.
Definitions
Carcass ratios: a technique used by ecologists to put mortalities into context and determine whether a population is likely to be growing, declining or stable.
All-carcass ratios: carcass estimates as a percentage of live elephant and carcass estimates. Previous ecological studies have shown that a ratio of over 8% is generally the cut-off for a stable population. If the ratio goes any higher, the mortality rate outstrips the birth rate, and the population begins to decline.
Fresh/recent carcass rations: carcasses deemed to be less than 12 months old as a percentage of live elephant and carcass estimates. This ratio can be used to detect emergent population challenges such as poaching surges and disease events.
Strata/stratum boundaries/stratification: when conducting an aerial survey, the region of interest is divided into strata (that is, it is stratified), and the sizes and shapes of these strata are determined by environmental conditions such as permanent water availability, vegetation type and landscape use. These, in turn, determine the spacing of the transects flown by the aerial counting team. So, for example, a section of riverine habitat surrounded by lush flood plains will likely support a higher density of animals and thus requires that the counting team flies narrow transects to estimate the number of animals present accurately. Conversely, pilots can fly much wider transects in a sparse area without drinking water and little vegetation because there are fewer animals to count, so the risk of underestimating populations is reduced.
A high-powered Botswana delegation has been attempting to convince UK and EU decision-makers not to give in to pressure to ban the import of hunting trophies.
In this televised interview, Botswana president Masisi, a highly intelligent man and superb orator, made various dubious claims to support the case for trophy hunting. His primary concern, he said, was safety – because elephants ‘maul and maraud people.’ Of course, human-elephant conflict is a very real problem in parts of Botswana BUT these are not the elephants being hunted. Trophy hunters are not interested in the perpetrators of human-elephant conflict; they are after the dwindling population of large-tusked lone bulls. To put it more plainly: trophy hunting has no impact on the issue that Masisi claims is the primary benefit of trophy hunting. It’s obvious in this interview that he views elephants as nothing more than political collateral. An inconvenient truth for Masisi is that during his reign there has been a significant increase in elephant poaching in Botswana. He has also lorded over the decimation by poachers of what was a growing wild rhino population. Rhinos were reintroduced to Botswana by the previous regime and their conservation partners – most of whom have been cold-shouldered by the Masisi regime.
Masisi also referred to the UK’s sovereign right to determine their own regulations as ‘a resurgence of colonial conquest’. Come again? To cap it off he lamented the peddling of ‘untruths’ by those opposed to trophy hunting. Oh the irony!
It’s a pity that the Sky News interviewer and subsequent talking heads did not understand the topic and so could not interrogate the obvious flaws in his claims and the gaping omissions.
Masisi does make some excellent points about the need for his people to be incentivised to conserve animals – it’s just a pity that he also trots out untruths and hypocritical generalisations. Any sustainable conservation strategy has to be transparently applied and be rooted in science and factual accuracy
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Did you know that, by 2070, Africa’s venomous snakes may have migrated to new territories, creating problems for people not used to dangerous encounters of the reptile kind?
Climate change is affecting the distribution of all animals on the planet, threatening delicate populations and causing some species to go extinct. New research that focused on 209 venomous snakes in Africa predicts that in the next half century, snakes will migrate to new environments that remain suitable when temperatures rise (by an average of 5ºC). The domino effect could cause the spread of diseases (due to the absence of snakes to control rodent populations), challenges to public health where antivenoms are scarce, and threats to livestock and livelihoods. What can be done? Investment into scientific research that tackles the problems facing the continent’s wildlife and people is essential.
Don’t miss our Week 3 Photographer of the Year gallery below, and our story on Kingsley Holgate’s journey of hope to Majete, Malawi.
Longing for an escape to warmer climes? To lounge beside the ocean? Here’s your chance to dive in and spend a holiday in paradise. Check out our options below, or let our experts plan your unique balmy safari.
On this 9-day safari of discovery you’ll explore the natural, cultural and historical wonders of the two magical islands of São Tomé and Príncipe. You’ll visit roças, experience the other-worldy coastline by boat, venture deep into rainforests and see unique flora and fauna, while spending time with local people to gain true insight into life in this island nation.
Discover Madagascar’s pristine and raw beauty. Experience powdery white beaches, palm trees, magical forests, lemurs and impossibly blue waters on this tropical-island escape. You’ll visit the rainforests and Blue Lagoon in Ambodilaitry Masoala Marine Reserve on the island’s northeast coast, and spend days kayaking on the lagoon, walking its shores and snorkelling its coves.
Photographer of the Year 2024
Have you submitted your entry for Photographer of the Year 2024? Curious about what all the excitement is about? Visit our website for all you need to know, from how and where to enter, to our competition rules and the epic prizes on offer – including a conservation safari and a lion research collar sponsored in your name. Don’t miss your chance to become the next Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year!
WATCH: Liuwa Plain National Park in Zambia is home to precious Ramsar site wetlands, new lion prides & remote wilderness to get lost in. It also plays host to Africa’s second-largest wildebeest migration. With seemingly boundless horizons, the open landscape is not unlike that of some of East Africa’s most renowned safari destinations – minus the crowds. (04:23) Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
We can’t believe our eyes: park manager John Adendorff, some 40 smartly turned-out members of the ranger corps and other staff are gathered under the giant ‘Welcome to Majete Wildlife Reserve’ sign, waiting for our arrival. It’s a magnificent surprise as they form a guard of honour and then, in perfect unison, escort the expedition Defenders in a boot-thumping, chanting formation to the Park’s parade ground and its Ranger Memorial. What an honour for our Afrika Odyssey team.
John grins from ear to ear. “They’re the best,” he says as the corps performs a complicated, close-order parade ground drill to the staccato commands shouted by their imposing, red-sashed sergeant major. They’re preparing for a significant event – Majete’s 20th anniversary celebration.
Majete’s rangers form a guard of honour for the Afrika Odyssey expedition team
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
Nestled in the low-lying Shire River valley in southern Malawi and encircled by rugged highlands, Majete is a remarkable tale of a once-declining reserve revitalised into a sanctuary for wildlife. In 2003, it was the first park to come under African Parks management when a historic 25-year agreement with the Malawi government was signed. So began an extraordinary story of hope and restoration, and over the next few days, we find out just how much there is to celebrate. It’s precisely why we’ve dedicated much of our lives to this rather unusual conservation, community and culture-themed journey of purpose.
“Let’s go to where it all began,” suggests John, but I go down with malaria; and have to stay behind to sweat it out at the game capture campsite. The rest of the gang pile onto the back of John’s bakkie and take a wandering track through the reserve, passing towering granite hills, open savannahs and beautiful miombo woodlands dotted with ilala palms, silvery-barked African star-chestnut trees and the occasional baobab, some of which must be over a thousand years old. The park is served by two main rivers: the gentle Mkulumadzi and the mighty Shire, which converge here in Majete before joining the Zambezi to reach the Indian Ocean.
We drive down a steep rocky bank marked by a massive African mahogany tree, one of the biggest we’ve ever seen, to reach the Phwadzi Springs. Held in place by a strangler fig, we find the old, twisted metal ladder leading to a viewing platform once used by George Dudley Hayes – GD for short – a pioneering conservationist who often camped here and played a critical role in Majete being proclaimed a game reserve in 1955. In those days, the area teamed with wildlife, and Hayes recorded in his diary seeing a host of animals at these springs, including sable, eland, zebra, duiker, buffalo, lion, hyena and leopard. In 1956, he casually noted a pack of wild dogs playing around. It was the last known record of the species in Majete.
Majete is one of Malawi’s most popular Big 5 reserves, offering a good chance of spotting leopards
Here, in this historic place, John adds water to the Zulu calabash and from the eye of the spring, his daughter Josie and Dutch visitors Jules, Matisse and Steven select water-smoothed round pebbles – another of this expedition’s traditions. We’re collecting symbolic pebbles from each of the 22 African Parks-managed areas we visit. We will use them to build a legacy ‘Isivivane’ (stone cairn) at AP’s head office HQ in Johannesburg at the end of this Afrika Odyssey journey in a few months.
Park manager John Adendorff fills up the expedition calabash with water from the Phwadzi Springs; Kingsley helps African Parks staff with the provision of eye tests and reading classes in the Majete community
Driving back to camp, John shares more about the history of Majete. The subsequent decline of the reserve in the ‘70s and ’80s must have been heart-wrenching for GD Hayes as charcoal burning, logging, and poaching ravaged the wildlife. The last rhino was seen in the ‘80s, large carnivores disappeared in the ‘90s, and the park’s sole surviving elephant was killed in 1992. By 2002, only a handful of antelope remained, the park’s infrastructure consisted of just one broken building, the roads were wrecked, and not a single tourist had visited the park in three years.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? You can plan and book your African Parks safari to Majete Wildlife Reserve and other parks by clicking here.
In 2003, African Parks took over the management and the rest, as they say, is history. Since then, more than 5,000 animals from 17 species have been reintroduced, including black rhino, elephant, lion, giraffe and cheetah.
Lions have been reintroduced into the reserve and are now thriving
“And isn’t it fantastic that in 2021, we were able to introduce six wild dogs after a 60-year absence, and they’ve just had their second litter of pups – the pack now numbers 24!” says John. “I can just imagine the grin on GD Hayes’ face as he sat up on his tree platform all those years ago.”
Wild dogs introduced into the reserve are doing well
Its recovery has been so successful that Majete has been able to help restore other parks in Malawi, including 150 elephants, as part of the historic 500 Elephants translocation to Nkhotakota in 2017. But that’s only one part of this incredible story. Around the fire at night, John tells us that hundreds of jobs have been created, the park has not lost a single rhino or elephant to poaching, and the surrounding communities have become enthusiastic supporters as they see their livelihoods, health, and education improve, thanks to Majete’s existence.
The Majete team offer a grand welcome to the Afrika Odyssey expedition
John’s boundless energy, engaging leadership approach and immense pride in the Majete team are obvious. “We follow the ‘broken window’ policy here: if it’s broke, don’t leave it – fix it!” he tells us. John’s a veritable goldmine of information and never-ending stories; he spent 28 years at Addo Elephant National Park in South Africa’s Eastern Cape, rising through the ranks to leave an indelible legacy before moving to Majete – our ribs ache from laughter at some of his more risqué anecdotes.
Community extension manager Dixie Makwale signs the Scroll
Community extension manager Dixie Makwale, who has a smile as wide as the Shire River, invites us to join their monthly Umuganda community clean-up day. Everyone pitches in – John, the head office team, rangers, wildlife monitors, tourism staff, visiting volunteers, workshop mechanics and handypersons. It takes place at the Kakoma health centre. It includes a ‘chicken parade’ of litter collection, malaria education for pregnant women and moms with infants, eye tests and reading glasses for the poor-sighted, and a Wildlife Art competition.
Gathering for the Umuganda community clean-up dayHelping to prevent malaria amongst women and children at the Majete-supported Kakoma Clinic
Then, the highlight is a frenetic, crazy-costumed cultural event by the ritualistic Gule Wamkulu dancers, who we’re told are favourites of this region’s Chewa and Manganga people. Dixie also tells us that 50 wildlife clubs have been established, and 2,500 children visited the reserve last year to learn about wildlife conservation first-hand.
He invites us to spend a story-telling evening around the campfire with a group of kids spending a few educational days at the park’s youth camp; we’re astonished at their insightful understanding of environmental issues and the need to protect Africa’s wild areas.
Majete has come a long way in the last 20 years, from a sink to a source of value that now provides hundreds of jobs and supports thousands of community members. At last light one evening, we stand on a granite hill viewpoint with 360° views stretching as far as the eye can see – it’s time to say goodbye to the miracle of Majete. This was Dr Anthony Hall-Martin’s favourite place – it was thanks to his far-seeing grit and determination that this thriving park became the cornerstone of the African Parks story.
Traditional Gule Wamkulu dancers at Majete’s Umuganda community day
On a brass plaque attached to a stone plinth is a tribute to his vision and leadership and a poem he used to recite:
“Make no little plans,
They have no magic to stir men’s blood,
And probably, they will not be realised.
Make big plans deep into the future,
Aim high in hope and work.
Have faith, remembering that a noble plan, once recorded, will never die.
But we will still be a living thing long after we are gone.”
How apt is the last line as his legacy lives on, not just here at Majete but in 21 other wildlife areas in 12 countries across this beautiful continent?
Our visits to Malawi’s three African Parks-managed conservation areas of Nkhotakota (the old forest reserve that’s been reborn and restocked with 500 elephants and more), Liwonde & Mangochi (a picture-postcard park that’s been wholly revitalised) and now Majete (African Parks’ very first project now celebrating 20 years of operation – a complete miracle of conservation that’s become Malawi’s most visited Big five reserve), have all been wonderful, eye-opening experiences for the Afrika Odyssey expedition team. We’re truly delighted that this small country of Malawi has provided us with such valuable stories of hope for Africa’s wildlife and wild spaces.
Zikomo Kwambiri, and congratulations to everyone.
Resources
Malawi’s Majete Wildlife Reserve is a booming Big 5 destination. Be drawn by epic scenery, cheetahs & wild dogs, & the mighty Shire River. Read more about Majete here.
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Tusker hunt photos emerge + more
About 20 years ago a bunch of adventurous lads rubber-ducked the mighty Zambezi River from source to mouth to raise funds for anti-malaria campaigns in the region. It was an epic adventure that delivered many life-lessons.
The annual floods had arrived in Western Zambia and we came across many temporarily abandoned villages – and found ourselves drifting between the elevated wooden-platform homes. The Lozi people move to higher ground to the east during the floods, marking the occasion with the famous Kuomboka festival. One night we found a tiny island that seemed perfect for camping. Unbeknown to us, the entire ant population of Barotseland was sheltering on this rare patch of elevated land. These angry warriors ate the bottom of one of our tents and persuaded us to spend the night huddled around our meagre fire slapping our legs or sleeping in the floating rubber ducks! We also learned how to avoid becoming flat dog (crocodile) food while taking a communal bucket-shower on the banks of the Zambezi – but that’s another story.
My last visit to the birth floodplains of the Zambezi River was late last year. Liuwa Plain National Park in Zambia is one of Africa’s rising wildlife destinations. Among other things, Liuwa hosts the second largest wildebeest migration – it’s like a mini Serengeti. Have a look here and start planning your next safari. 100% of revenue received by African Parks from your Liuwa safari goes to wildlife conservation and community empowerment.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Falcons are incredibly fast and skilled hunters. But did you know that there is one falcon that has taken its hunting abilities to the next level?
The Eleonora’s falcon, which breeds off the coast of Morocco and winters in Madagascar, has come up with a unique way of keeping its meals fresh – by catching small live birds and trapping them inside rocky prisons. Ornithologists observing one population of the birds on the Mogador archipelago reported that the falcons caught little birds, stripped them of their flight feathers and shoved them into deep holes in the rocks. Cunning!
In an update to our recent story on three elephants trophy hunted in Enduimet, Tanzania, we are now able to publish the photos from the first hunt of super tusker, Gilgil – see our story below. Photographer of the Year 2024 is warming up rapidly, and this week’s epic photos are hot, hot, hot… Check them out in the gallery below. And read our fascinating story about how a wobbly earth and once-green Sahara led to the spread of humans.
Enjoy this iconic bush and beach safari – the best that South Africa offers. Greater Kruger’s exceptional Big 5 game viewing will sweep you off your feet. This safari also includes a full-day road trip to the stunning scenery and cultural delights of the Lowveld. Then, head on to vibey Cape Town, her beaches, and the nearby Winelands.
Be captivated by the rawness of the Greater Kruger wilderness. This one-of-a-kind mobile-camping safari is for adventurous travellers. Walk the bushveld with a guide and trackers while the ground team moves your tented camp to a new location every night. This soul-food safari will reconnect you with nature and recharge your batteries.
WATCH: A wonderful sighting of a baby zebra taking its very first steps after just after being born in Thornybush Game Reserve, Greater Kruger, South Africa. (01:00) Click here to watch
It’s an interesting tale, and it takes place in the hot, arid Sahara Desert in Africa. Actually, it takes place in the warm, wet and green Sahara. The Sahara Desert was not always the hyper-arid, dune-swept region it is now. It has been lush-green, damp and full of rivers in the past (about 230 times in the last 8 million years, every 21,000 years or so, to be more precise). During these green periods, vegetated corridors created distribution channels for various species – including humans. So, how did the Sahara change so much? What led to the climatic variations that changed the desert into a savannah?
It all comes down to the Earth’s dance in the Milky Way: the past changes occurring in the Sahara are linked to cyclic variations in the Earth’s orbit. To understand this, one needs to know how our Earth moves. We all know that the Earth rotates every 24 hours (causing day and night) and that it undergoes a 365-day revolution around the sun (causing seasons), but did you know that every 100,000 years, the shape of Earth’s orbit shifts between circular and oval (a phenomenon known as eccentricity)? And that every 41,000 years the tilt of Earth’s axis changes (termed obliquity) between 22.1 and 24.5 degrees? These changes in the eccentricity and obliquity cycles are responsible for driving the ice ages of the past 2.4 million years. Furthermore, the Earth is not a perfect sphere; it bulges at the Equator and is influenced by the sun’s gravity, moon, and planets. Just like a spinning top, it sometimes wobbles during its rotation. This is called ‘precession’ and is defined as the slow change in the direction of Earth’s rotational axis, and it varies on a 21,000-year timescale. There are no prizes for guessing then that the 21,000-year precession cycle is linked to the 21,000-year timing of the wet, green Sahara periods.
How does a wobbly Earth make a desert go green?
Firstly, one needs to understand what climate systems influence North Africa. The region’s climate is governed by three different systems: the northern (Mediterranean and northernmost Atlantic) coastal belt of westerly rains that fall mainly during the late autumn to early spring, and the West and East African monsoons (WAM and EAM) which bring summer rains to the subtropical regions located west and east of the River Nile. When the Earth wobbles on its axis (precession) at different times during the cycle, the seasons will become more or less extreme in the northern or southern hemisphere. When the precession causes the Northern Hemisphere to be closer to the sun during the summer months, there is an increase in North African summer rainfall. This happens because of an increase in the amount of solar radiation in the tropics, which is the engine that fuels the monsoon system. This then results in the enhancement of East African Monsoon summer rainfall over the southern part of the Nile catchment and the Ethiopian highlands and also causes the intensification and enhanced northward penetration of the West African Monsoon summer rains over the present-day Sahara. During these times, the increased rainfall and solar radiation resulted in the greening of the Sahara, with swathes of savannah vegetation and abundant lakes and rivers. These are the so-called Green Sahara Periods (GSPs) or the (more prosaic) term “North African humid periods” (NAHPs).
However, the humid periods sometimes do not occur (they skip a beat). Using climate change modelling, Armstrong et al. (2023) found that these periods occurred during the ice ages when sizeable glacial ice sheets covered much of the polar regions. These vast ice sheets cooled the Earth’s atmosphere, offset precession’s warming influence and suppressed the expansion of the African monsoon system.
In summary: the Earth wobbles, temperatures go up in some places and down in others, the monsoon engine is revved up, and more rain falls in the Sahara, except for during the Ice Ages, which are driven by the eccentricity cycle (how circular Earth’s orbit is around the sun). During these times, the vast surface area of ice sheets causes cooling, which offsets the warming. This is one of the most exciting findings of Armstrong et al. (2023); it shows us how connected everything is. The desert is linked to the ice, and the vegetation is linked to the movement of the Earth.
How did we first learn about these wet periods in the Sahara?
Studies on pollen analysis and marine and lake sediments in the Sahara have shown us that there was far more vegetation during these periods than there is now. But we also know about these GSPs through the details of the rock art in the area. The humans living during those greening periods told the story of antelopes, crocodiles, hippos, and giraffes through the language of art. The details of the rock art in the World Heritage Site, Tassili n’Ajjer, located in south-east Algeria at the borders of Libya, Niger and Mali, contain some of the “most eloquent expression of relationships between humans and the environment, with more than 15,000 drawings and engravings testifying to climate changes, wildlife migrations, and the evolution of humankind on the edge of the Sahara. This art depicts water-dependent species like the hippopotamus, which have been extinct in the region for thousands of years.”
The Sahara Desert today
So how did the greening of the Sahara change humankind’s journey?
We need to keep the bigger picture in mind. The Sahara Desert takes up 9 million km2, one-third of the African continent, and when dry, represents a significant barrier to the dispersal of species, including ancient hominid races. The theory is that these GSPs led to vegetated corridors, which then allowed changes in species’ distribution and evolution and may have facilitated the out-of-Africa migrations of ancient humans. These fertile phases presumably resulted in a significant expansion of human populations, which may, in turn, have increased the number of favourable genetic mutations which underpinned the speciation of hominin lineages.
Combined with the environmental variability associated with GSPs coming and going, the humans probably arrived and left, which might have had an additional impact on human population dynamics as it might have split African and Asian populations. When GSPs ended, human groups were likely forced to retreat to already densely populated areas or to survive in regions with still water. There is a significant association between the currently known first and last appearance datums of the major hominin lineages, suites of technological behaviours, and dispersal events with the predicted intervals of prolonged high climate variability associated with precession cycles.
Therefore, a wobbly Earth led to periods of increased climate variability, prompting human adaptability and flexibility and leading to evolutionary change in the hominids. So, if you are feeling a little off-colour today, just cast your mind back millions of years and think about how much of our history is based on a wobble. We need the wobblies to keep us on our toes.
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
Leopards have been particularly active in our neighbourhood recently. One gent living in our street literally bumped into one in his garden a few nights ago – it was chasing his dog, which had ventured into the dark to take a leak. Leopard and human got a helluva fright and scarpered in opposite directions – a lucky break for the dog!
This got me thinking about humankind’s relationships with wild animals. Of course, we define everything according to our ever-increasing needs and sense of self-importance (ego vs eco), but here and there, we also benefit opportunistic species. The local leopards certainly seem to enjoy supplementing their diets with tasty canine snacks, and mongooses, bush babies and vervet monkeys clearly benefit from our kindness and waste. Another example is the stable yard in our wildlife estate – a haven for dung beetles and the creatures that feast on them. Purists may roll their eyes, but I enjoy life in this buffer zone between the Greater Kruger bushveld to the east and farmlands to the west.
Thanks for all the emails and social media support about the ongoing situation regarding trophy hunters picking off the remaining super tuskers. We are proud to have helped spark a growing campaign to stop this morally bankrupt, unsustainable plunder of Africa’s wild spaces. We are monitoring a few trophy hunting forums and have noticed some hunters challenging the bad apples, which is good to see. This is a developing situation – expect more news in the coming months.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Imagine you are wandering the desert, with not a drop of water in sight. A juicy melon appears – like manna from heaven. But it’s not quite ripe yet… How to deter thieves from pinching your melon while you wait for it to reach optimum sweetness?
Black-backed jackals have solved this conundrum – by urinating on the near-ripe melons.
Scientists have discovered that jackals in the Namib Desert urinate on the Nara melons to deter other animals from eating them, allowing them to ripen to their own taste. They made the discovery while studying the role jackals play in distributing the seeds of the nara plant (which they do very well through their faeces). Jackals can suss out which melons are ripe, or are about to ripen, with one quick sniff.
This week, we have, after much anticipation, published the first Photographer of the Year gallery for 2024, and our first entries do not disappoint! Check out the gallery below. We’ve also put together the ultimate guide to Mapungubwe National Park – not to be missed.
This bumper safari is about water – or the lack thereof. This adventure will take you from the majestic Victoria Falls to the watery wilderness of the Okavango Delta, and from the predator-rich northern Botswana floodplains to the remote Central Kalahari and desolate salt pans. 11 days of safari splendour.
This safari offers a jam-packed three days of nonstop action in Africa’s adventure capital – ideal for a short break or as an add-on to another safari. Either way, Victoria Falls, one of the world’s Seven Wonders, is a destination well worth ticking off your bucket list. Experience the magic of “the smoke that thunders” – whether getting drenched while admiring the view or participating in the many activities on offer here, from white-water rafting, to gorge swinging, helicopter flights, boat cruises, game drives, canoeing and more.
‘Conservation Kraal Challenge’ to mitigate farmer-predator conflict
The Cape Leopard Trust is challenging the public to put their creativity and engineering know-how to the test to help make a difference for leopard conservation. The Trust is hosting a national competition to find designs for an affordable, safe, durable, portable and predator-proof kraal (a protective enclosure) to secure livestock. Read more about this unique challenge on our forum so that you can help conserve wildlife and help find a practical solution for farmers suffering stock losses.
WATCH: Nyungwe National Park hosts Africa’s most extensive protected tract of montane forest. This verdant oasis is a biodiversity hotspot bursting with life. Nyungwe covers 1,019km2 of forested mountains, burbling streams, sun-starved valleys, and extensive swamps seemingly hiding a myriad of new species waiting to be discovered (or rediscovered). Learn more about Nyungwe in this video. (07:42) Click here to watch
There is an undercurrent of mysticism that pervades the arid savannahs of Mapungubwe National Park. Here, as the wind whistles past sandstone ridges and boulder-strewn kopjes, it seems to carry echoes of the park’s vibrant history. Gnarled baobabs stand sentinel around every corner, squat and silent witnesses to the changing fortunes of the region’s human and animal inhabitants.
Mapungubwe is one of South Africa’s most evocative protected spaces, beckoning to intrepid travellers and promising a journey of discovery.
Mapungubwe National Park
Situated in the northernmost reaches of South Africa against the border of Botswana and Zimbabwe, the relatively tiny 28,000-hectare Mapungubwe National Park safeguards a precious chunk of the country’s heritage. From the lush riverine forests and magnificent trees to the expansive savannahs and rugged sandstone formations, the park’s scenic beauty cannot be overstated. Its northern boundary is marked by the iconic Limpopo River, where visitors can stare out over its confluence with the Shashe River and marvel at the massive herds of elephants crossing between countries without care for international borders.
The “great grey-green, greasy Limpopo River”
To the north, across Kipling’s “great grey-green, greasy Limpopo River” on the Botswana side, lies the Northern Tuli Game Reserve, which, in turn, is contiguous with Zimbabwe’s Tuli Circle Safari Area. The Venetia Limpopo Nature Reserve lies south of Mapungubwe, with Vhembe Game Reserve to the west and Mapesu Private Game Reserve to the southeast. These protected landscapes and several private properties in all three countries will form the cornerstone of the Greater Mapungubwe Transfrontier Conservation Area (GMTCA). The GMTCA is still under development, but when it reaches its full envisioned potential, it will conserve nearly 5,000 km2 (500,000 hectares) of unique and vital southern African wilderness.
The creation of the GMTCA should help to ensure that the conservation of Mapungubwe’s extravaganza of natural beauty and legendary wildlife will remain a priority. However, for most visitors, the park’s human history takes centre stage, as this remarkable sanctuary was once home to the oldest known kingdom in southern Africa. The Kingdom of Mapungubwe – its capital perched atop the golden ridges of Mapungubwe Hill – flourished just under a thousand years ago. Today, its remnants lie scattered across the landscape, offering tantalising clues into the lives of its occupants during a time of power and prestige.
Elephants cross the dry riverbeds at the confluence of the Limpopo and Shashe Rivers
Golden rhinos, lucrative trade, and lofty rulers
Though Mapungubwe, and the Mapungubwe Hill in particular, had long held a vital cultural significance to the area’s local people, its archaeological importance came to light in the 1930s when an excavation uncovered a treasure trove of artefacts. Over time, the findings revealed the rise and fall of a complex Iron Age society (some 5,000 people at the civilisation’s height) that occupied the region from around circa AD 900-1300. It soon became clear that the Kingdom of Mapungubwe had been a hub of trade and cultural exchange, with links to the Middle East, India and China via East African ports.
Among the most famous discoveries were gold and ivory objects, including an exquisite golden rhinoceros, which has become a symbol of the park and its history. This palm-sized artefact was delicately crafted (right down to the minute details of its ears, horn, and tail) from wood and covered in thin sheets of gold – a testament to the skill and artistry of its creator. Other finds included delicate ceramics, glass beads, and terracotta figurines.
The Mapungubwe Interpretation Centre
Exactly why the civilisation collapsed is a matter for some debate, with several theories ranging from changing climates to shifting trade routes posited. Whatever the reason, by the 14th century, the people of the Kingdom of Mapungubwe had moved on. Historians believe that the three best-known stone-walled kingdoms of southern Africa – Mapungubwe, Great Zimbabwe and Thulamela – were all connected, with people migrating first from Mapungubwe to Great Zimbabwe and then on to Thulamela over the centuries.
Today, the Mapungubwe Cultural Landscape is a Unesco World Heritage Site. Visitors to Mapungubwe can learn more about this fascinating period of South African history at the park’s Interpretation Centre. The centre’s unique architecture is a marvel in itself, while the museum displays inside include some of the original artefacts (and some replicas) and a wealth of information. A guided heritage walk to the top of Mapungubwe Hill, where the kingdom’s rulers once dwelled in a walled fortress, looking down on the “commoners” in the valleys below, is another must.
A lush baobab in leaf
Everything the light touches…
From the top of Mapungubwe Hill, looking down on a landscape painted in shades of ochre, green and gold, it is easy to imagine how the rulers of old must have felt about their precious realm. The kingdom’s people may be long gone, but the wildlife they shared their space with remains, much to the joy of eager safari-goers.
Sipping at the water’s edge
Though cultural curiosities typically eclipse wildlife viewing in this small national park, that is not to say that Mapungubwe is not an impressive safari destination in its own right. This is especially true as it lies between the arid habitats to the west and the moist Lowveld savannahs to the east, allowing for incredible variety and biodiversity. Elephants are everywhere in Mapungubwe, and every corner seems to reveal another special sighting, from breeding herds and young calves playing in the mud to placid old bulls napping in the shade of a baobab or nyala tree. The plains and mopane woodlands support a variety of antelope species, including massive eland, stately oryx, delicate impala and shy steenbok. Above them on the kopjes, nimble klipspringers leap from boulder to boulder, their hooves beautifully designed for life on the rocks.
Sandstone cliffs form striking backdrops throughout the park
Lucky visitors may even be fortunate enough to glimpse one of the park’s white rhinos or a leopard lounging in the forest. The park is also occasionally home to one of South Africa’s only free-ranging lion populations, who come and go from the park at will. Similarly, packs of African wild dogs (painted wolves) make rare but exhilarating appearances from time to time. And, of course, every wildlife encounter is made all the more special by the spectacular backdrop against which it unfolds, especially as the dry season sets in and animals are drawn to the banks of the Limpopo.
A young male takes respite from the heat of the day. Lions are occasionally spotted in the park
The skies above Mapungubwe are adorned with over 400 bird species, from vibrant bee-eaters to majestic raptors, creating a kaleidoscope of colours that dance in the African sunlight. The crags of the sandstone cliffs have attracted nesting pairs of majestic Verreaux’s eagles, while the dense foliage around the river offers the perfect habitat for Pel’s fishing owls. One of the best ways to experience bird life in the park is to set out across the wooden platforms of the treetop walkway. (It is important to note that though the Limpopo is never really grey-green or greasy, it can be significant and has been known to wash parts of the walkway occasionally – so check beforehand if the canopy is open).
The treetop walkway
Explore & stay in Mapungubwe
Mapungubwe National Park is both a premier national park and a time capsule, preserving South Africa’s timeless heritage for generations to come. It is a destination that offers the chance to delve into the annals of history, connect with the natural world, and gain a deeper appreciation for the continent’s diverse cultural tapestry. Though the park is small and could arguably be explored in a day, there is no question that a few days are needed to do it (and its story) justice.
There are a couple of camps, ranging from basic safari tent accommodation to relatively luxurious chalets, all of which are ideally positioned to take in some of the park’s diverse landscapes. There is also a well-maintained campsite for those looking for a fully immersive experience and more self-sufficient experience. Guided drives are offered, but visitors can self-drive around the park, though some routes are only accessible with a 4X4. Due to its more recent and controversial 20th-century history, the Mapungubwe is divided into eastern and western portions by a section of private property inaccessible to park guests. One has to exit the park to move between the two, but the drive is short and scenic.
The swimming pool at Mapungubwe’s main camp, Leokwe, often attracts thirsty elephants
Mapungubwe is situated in an arid and warm part of South Africa, and summer temperatures from October to April regularly top the mercury at over 45˚C. Most people prefer to visit during the dry winter from May until September, when the daytime temperatures are cooler, and wildlife viewing is most spectacular. However, those that tolerate heat well would be rewarded on a summer visit when the migratory birds arrive, and the rains have washed away the dust haze, accentuating the summer greens and spectacular scenery.
Resources
Botswana’s Tuli Block, also part of the Greater Mapungubwe Transfrontier Conservation Area, is a place where the wind carries stories of the past, whispering over rocks, around baobabs and across the vast wilderness. Read more about Tuli here.
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
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10 tuskers left in Amboseli? + Picture-perfect Liwonde
Our best photography prize ever? Entries are open for Photographer of the Year – our annual celebration of Africa’s awesomeness. And this year we tweaked things to grant our three winners the status of legitimate conservation heroes. They get to each sponsor a lion research collar (paid for by teamAG) and so play a practical role in the conservation of Africa’s free-roaming lions – a wonderful tribute to their photographic prowess! And they and their partners will join me on safari in Hwange, Zimbabwe to learn about lion conservation. Amongst other thoroughly fascinating experiences we will spend time with researchers and local rural people at the coalface of lion conservation.
AI-generated images are now a dime a dozen on social media – attracting adoring comments about the wonder of nature (rolls his eyes). Chubby-cheeked cherubs hugging quaffed lions compete for our attention with seriously accurate (but fake) renditions of wild animals. Our mission is to reflect the REAL AFRICA – warts and all. And that is why we will NOT permit AI-generated images in Photographer of the Year. They are not photographs – it’s as simple as that. Using artificial intelligence in your post-production work on photographs is permitted if the result faithfully represents the original scene (AI is already integrated into most post-production software). See our competition rules here. Search your archives and enter now – and perhaps join me in Hwange to make a real difference at ground zero!
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Will the Garden Route’s lone female elephant soon have a herd? She goes by many names – including Ou Poot, Strange Foot, and Matriarch – but to most she is known as THE Knysna Elephant. The single female elephant has existed as a ghost in Knysna’s forests and fynbos, South Africa, for many years, and is the only female elephant in the world known to exist in the wild completely by herself.
Camera trap and ecological studies have helped us learn more about her (see more in the video below). Worryingly, her stress levels are abnormally high – likely as she’s under chronic stress from being alone, and becomes more strained when sensing humans are near. But recent studies conducted by SANParks support the re-introduction of more elephants to the area. Watch this space!
Now to East Africa’s elephants, where the integrity of Amboseli’s elephant population is in jeopardy, and the super tusker population is down to about 10. Read about the hunting of A THIRD elephant in Enduimet, and what YOU can do about this, below. In further developments, Amboseli Trust for Elephants has positively identified the first hunted bull as Gilgil, a breeding elephant aged 35, who would have just been entering his prime reproductive years. Our sources confirm that Gilgil was a 100-pounder. See more in our story…
Lastly, don’t miss our story on Kingsley Holgate’s expedition to picture-perfect Liwonde.
Experience Congo-Brazzaville’s Odzala-Kokoua National Park, one of Africa’s oldest parks and the ideal destination for your bucket-list gorilla-trekking safari. Luxurious camps, dense rainforests, peaceful river activities and habituated western lowland gorillas await. In this 9-day safari, you’ll also search for forest elephants, bongos, dwarf crocodiles, vast flocks of grey parrots and green pigeons – and much more.
This Rwandan gorilla-trekking adventure will take you through pristine afro-montane forests packed with golden monkeys, colourful Rwenzori turacos and prehistoric three-horned chameleons. And, of course, the star of your safari is a silverback mountain gorilla, accompanied by his family – spotted in the depths of paradise.
Do you have a friend who wants to go on an African safari? Refer them to Africa Geographic, and you’ll help protect lion populations in Africa.
Here’s how:
If a person you refer to AG books a safari with us, both of you will be added to an AG lion COALITION, and AG will donate $250 towards the satellite collaring of a lion.
Each satellite collar costs $2,500 – this means that once the COALITION reaches ten referrals – raising enough to purchase a collar – we finalise that COALITION and start building the next one.
Once that COALITION’s lion has been identified and collared, each COALITION member (including you) receives general updates from the research team about the lion – secure in the knowledge that they have made a decisive contribution to the ongoing survival of Africa’s free-roaming wild lions.
WATCH: Learn more about the local extinction of Knysna’s elephants, the last elephant in the Knysna Forest, and the work being done to save her. (07:14) Click here to watch
It’s Day 85 of this Afrika Odyssey expedition. We’re now feeling the pace, as we hug the shores of Lake Malawi to reach Liwonde National Park, the seventh park of the southern Africa chapter of our trip. Jack Johnson’s moody Times like these plays over the Defender sound system – so much memory-lane stuff swirling around in our heads. Today, Lake Malawi is as calm as a millpond, but it isn’t always so.
Ross’s voice comes over the radio: “Remember when we were hit by that storm going across the lake?” He’s referring to our dangerous 14-hour crossing of Lake Malawi during a previous expedition to track the entire length of the Great African Rift Valley. It had been a nightmare of bailing and throwing up, as the captain of the hopelessly overloaded wooden dhow (he’d taken on too many passengers, some of them mums with tiny babies – very reckless) struggled with only a small outboard to keep the boat’s prow into the wind, as massive waves threatened to capsize us. An argument had broken out – some of the passengers wanted to turn back. “Masadandaule – be calm, don’t complain!” the captain had urged. He knew that if we turned, the boat could broach and that would be the end.
“Never ever!” had shouted Shova Mike, our expedition mountain biking veteran, as we jumped ashore in the dark and staggered onto a baobab-ringed beach on Likoma Island. Pulling on an imaginary cigar and putting on a posh accent, he’d intoned, “Never ever, in the history of this vast inland sea, have so many seasick passengers been pushed by so few horsepower, across such dangerous waters!”
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
That journey had taken us all the way down Lake Malawi and Lake Malombe to the Shire River, Liwonde National Park’s lifeline, and beyond. Now, ten years on, we’re back and Liwonde is even better. The birdlife is unbelievable, and buffalo, sable antelope and dusty elephant herds come down to the river to drink. Pods of hippos everywhere, waterbuck galore and fantastic lion sightings.
A lion spotted in Liwonde
It’s great to reconnect with park manager Dave Robertson and his wife Erica, who we know from their days in Zululand. Together with their Liwonde team, we gather for welcome sundowners on the banks of the Shire, which, thanks to Cyclone Freddy’s double deluge, has become a lake.
Park manager Dave Robertson with the expedition calabash
It’s time again for the calabash ceremony, and Dave wades into shallows. We couldn’t have asked for a more magnificent scene; the sun setting behind tall Borassus palms, a fat full moon rising over the Chinguni Hills, hippos grunting and a small herd of elephants swimming across the river. It proves to be one of the most iconic images of the expedition thus far.
Dave Robertson and the Liwonde anti-poaching unit
It is a picture-perfect postcard of a park, and once again, we’re reminded that thanks to African Parks and the Malawi government, Liwonde has been pulled back from the brink of destruction to become the Big 5 success it now is. Over the past seven years, cheetah, lion and wild dog have been reintroduced, along with critically endangered black rhino in one of the largest international translocations in history. Fish stocks in the park’s 30km stretch of the Shire River are increasing rapidly and, with the return of predators, vultures have made a welcome comeback. Liwonde has now become the source for major wildlife relocations. Not only for some of the 500 elephants that went to Nkhotakota, but numerous other species have also been moved to other Malawian parks from Nkhotakota.
Cheetah have been successfully reintroduced into the park
It’s always great to get stories from the people on the ground. High-spirited field guide Nelson Chikwewa tells us that, when he was a boy, the elephants were always breaking out, there was terrible human-wildlife conflict, poachers were doing as they pleased (even coming in from Mozambique with guns), and elephant poaching was rampant. With Nelson at the wheel, we meander through large glades of tall cathedral mopanes and gnarled, grey baobabs. We pass an armed ranger on a motorbike. “Since African Parks took over in August 2015, there’s been proper law enforcement. Mr Lawrence, our field operations manager, and his team are doing an excellent job,” says Nelson with a big grin. “Over 50,000 snares have been removed, and they have controlled the poaching. We must be one of the best parks in Africa now!”
Elephants grazing in the Shire River
We smile knowingly. Lawrence Munro is an old friend. He and I worked together for years fighting rhino poaching and jointly started the Zululand Anti-Poaching Airwing. He’s still greatly admired in Zululand; undoubtedly, African Parks attracts the best people.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? You can plan and book your African Parks safari to Liwonde National Park and other parks by clicking here.
As Lawrence is on leave, we feel a practical joke is in order – expeditions are fuelled by good humour. He’s known as a stickler for military-style neatness, with everything precisely in its place. So, with Dave and Erica as willing co-conspirators, we shoot a video clip of Sheelagh, unrecognisable in a ranger’s gilly suit, apple-pieing Lawrence’s immaculate office! We all get the giggles imagining Lawrence’s horrified expression when he sees the video of some camouflaged stranger sitting at his messed-up desk. (A couple of weeks later, Sheelagh gets a two-word WhatsApp: ‘You Rat!’)
The Liwonde team pose on the banks of the Shire River
Over a million people live around Liwonde and, as with the other African Parks-managed wildlife reserves we’ve visited, the dedication to their neighbours is inspiring. With community manager Matias Elisa at the helm, we first visit the park’s environmental education centre for conservation work with kids. The park has established 94 wildlife clubs and literacy programmes in the surrounding schools, and children are regularly transported in the Liwonde game-viewing bus to spend fun-filled educational days at kids’ camps, as well as game drives with Liwonde guides. There’s a hugely popular Chipembere (rhino) Football League, a ‘Goat Pass On’ project that provides extra protein to families, monthly Umuganda community clean-up days, and busy irrigation schemes that grow acres of vegetables. Thousands of wood-efficient stoves have been distributed to reduce wood and charcoal consumption. The Spicy Farmers chilli growing project has also been a major success, resulting in a big drop in elephant breakouts.
Liwonde environmental education officer Susan Chimbaza writes her message in the Scroll; Liwonde ranger guide Nelson Chikwewa loves educating children about conservation
Our visit is not just about Liwonde, though. Dave says that in 2018, the Malawian government extended African Parks’ mandate to include the adjoining Mangochi Forest Reserve, so increasing the park’s footprint by 60%. There’s no direct link road yet, so it’s a long drive that loops north, close to the Mozambique border. En route to Mangochi, we stop at the park’s Honey with Heart project, where we meet beaming Clement Mnandi and his team. “Beekeeping is an alternative to poaching, charcoal, firewood and logging. This project empowers 580 beekeepers and benefits 3,500 households,” Clement tells us proudly. McCormick Phiri, one of the beekeepers, says he’s done well enough to buy a new motorbike and Anafi Mdala is, despite a clubfoot, one of the best honey producers. It certainly takes ‘heart’.
We’re joined by Meiring Smit, Mangochi’s young and energetic field operations manager, who’s done a great job of constructing a new ranger camp, airstrip and office. Meiring and a small team were also responsible for building plank bridges and cutting a steep, sinuous 4×4 track by hand to the top of Mangochi Mountain. In first and second gear, we growl and wind upwards through the pristine forests to reach the ruins of Fort Mangochi. “Your Defender is the first ever to reach this point,” Meiring says as, under the fort’s imposing walls, we munch a tailgate lunch of Erica’s home-baked bread and leftover nyama from the jolly braai of the night before. The fort’s strategic and picturesque location on the mountaintop offers breathtaking views of Mangochi’s valleys and plains that stretch towards Mozambique.
The view across Mangochi Forest Reserve
“With its unspoiled forests, a breeding population of leopards and unique bird and butterfly species, Mangochi is a crucial extension of Liwonde. Once the fencing is complete, it will provide extra space for elephants and other wildlife – and it has great potential for adventure tourism,” Dave says excitedly.
Kingsley and the Liwonde team pore over the Scroll of Peace & Goodwill
The following morning, as we watch three bull elephants lazily feeding in the gardens of the park’s HQ, Dave comes hurrying towards us, carrying the Africa Parks Scroll of Peace & Goodwill. He’s spent the night thinking carefully about his message of hope for Africa’s wildlife and wild spaces:
“Liwonde is an extraordinary piece of old Africa, with its slow Shire River full of crocs and hippos, and ancient baobabs … Mangochi is a forest wonderland, steeped in history with soaring granite outcrops above steeply wooded slopes and crystal clear streams. Together, they form an incredibly diverse complex that is under significant and increasing pressure – yet we have hope.
The Cambridge dictionary defines ‘Hope’ as wanting something to happen, or to be true, and usually having a good reason to think that it might. In African Parks and the dedicated men and women of the organisation, we have that good reason! Our hope is not naïve, or blind to the challenges and obstacles ahead; but we will persevere and ensure this remarkable place continues to thrive and that the communities are better off for the park’s existence, with dignity and mutual respect.”
It’s a powerful salute to this peaceful place – the poachers’ guns now thankfully silenced – where life still plays out to the rhythms and pace of wild Mama Afrika.
Sheelagh (second from right) poses with the Liwonde team, along with the expedition calabash
We’ll be ending the Malawian chapter of this Afrika Odyssey expedition at Majete Wildlife Reserve, the place where African Parks’ story began 20 years ago. It’s a bit of a pilgrimage; we’ve been looking forward to it for months, and the excitement is high.
Kingsley catches up on note-taking during a quiet moment
Resources
Liwonde National Park is an exceptional safari destination, revived from the brink of destruction & now a key protected area in Malawi. Read more about Liwonde here.
Amboseli elephants roaming Amboseli National Park, with Mt Kilimanjaro tucked behind clouds. Amboseli’s super tuskers are down to 10
Update 23/04/2024: We can confirm that two more large-tusked elephants have been trophy hunted in Tanzania near the Kenya border. A fourth elephant was hunted in Enduimet on 11 April – likely from the Amboseli elephant population. A fifth elephant was hunted in Longido, to the west of Enduimet, during the week of 14 April. The hunts were allegedly conducted by the same hunting outfitter that hunted previous elephants in the area and involved high profile members of Tanzania’s hunting fraternity. Our sources advise that unscrupulous outfitters are willing to violate the moratorium on hunting along the Kenya/Tanzania border, with no regard for the precarious state of Amboseli’s dwindling super tusker population. Meanwhile, those with detailed information are on lockdown, nervous to reveal details for fear of persecution – while petitions to the Tanzanian government fall on deaf ears.
Update 28/03/2024: Africa Geographic is now able to share photos taken shortly after the first trophy hunt that took place in Enduimet, showing the carcass and tusks of super tusker Gilgil. In the first image, Gilgil’s carcass can clearly be seen, and in the second, the tusks, removed from the carcass (measuring 99 pounds and 110 pound), are visible.
The carcass of super tusker Gilgil, trophy hunted in Enduimet; and Gilgil’s tusks after being removed from the carcass. The men pictured here were not members of the hunting party
Update 14/03/2024:Amboseli Trust for Elephants has positively identified the first trophy-hunted bull as Gilgil, a breeding elephant aged 35, who would have been approaching his prime reproductive years. Male elephants reach their prime breeding years at or about 40 years. Our sources confirm Gilgil was a ‘100-pounder’, with one tusk weighing 99 pounds and the other 110 pounds.
Amboseli tuskers down to 10 as trophy hunters operate in stealth mode
12 March 2024 – A third elephant hunted last week in the Enduimet area of Tanzania, within 40km of the Kenya/Tanzania border, has amplified the debate around hunting free-roaming cross-border elephant populations and super tuskers and driven a wedge between segments of the hunting community. With another three hunting licenses granted for elephant hunts in this region in the coming months, the integrity of the Amboseli elephant population is in jeopardy.
Following these legal hunts, about 10 super tuskers are left in the Amboseli Ecosystem, according to Big Life Foundation. This ecosystem encompasses land on either side of the Tanzania/Kenya border, including Amboseli National Park and surrounding conservancies in Kenya, as well as the Enduimet Wildlife Management Area and beyond in Tanzania.
The Amboseli elephant population includes well-known super tuskers (elephants with one or both tusks weighing over 100-pounds) such as Craig, Esau, Tee-Jay, Michael and One Ton – famous super tuskers that attract thousands of tourists yearly. Hunting is illegal in Kenya, but these elephants are vulnerable to trophy hunting when crossing into Tanzania, where hunting elephants with a license is legal.
Super tusker Craig in Amboseli National Park
In January, Africa Geographic broke the news that two super tuskers were hunted in the Enduimet area, close to the Kenyan border, in the latter half of 2023, sparking division within the hunting community and outrage outside of it. On 1 March this year, Africa Geographic received unconfirmed reports that a third elephant had been hunted in the Enduimet region. Shortly after this, news of the hunt started circulating on social media. On 11 March, Big Life Foundation released a statement confirming that a third elephant had been hunted. The statement noted that the elephant’s carcass was also burnt (as with the first two hunts), making identifying the specific elephant impossible. The tusk size of the third hunted elephant is unknown.
Elephant Voices, Big Life Foundation and Amboseli Trust for Elephants have released a Joint Statement on the Amboseli Elephants calling for the protection of this cross-border population and raising concerns about the granting of three further elephant-hunting licenses. These organisations are calling for the reinstatement of a moratorium on hunting in the border region, which has been in place since 1995:
“Our position is that the Amboseli cross-border population should be protected from trophy hunting because it is unique and highly valuable as a scientific base of knowledge of elephants. In addition, it represents one of the last gene pools for large tusks. A successful moratorium held for 30 years.… We appeal to the Tanzanian and Kenyan governments to work together to protect this cross-border population, to recognise its immense scientific value and to ensure that these treasured elephants are not the target of trophy hunters.”
All 2,000 elephants in the Amboseli elephant population are known, as they have been closely studied by the Amboseli Elephant Research Project (AERP) for 51 years.
“There are 63 elephant families in the Amboseli population, of which 17 families, consisting of 365 members, regularly spend time in Tanzania. In addition, approximately 30 adult male elephants, over the age of 25 years, use the Enduimet area and beyond in Tanzania as part of their home range,” says the Joint Statement. “For half a century, Enduimet has been a favourite area for a particular set of adult males who use it as part of their ‘bull area’, which is an area they use when they are bulking up for their next reproductively active period.”
Other stakeholders are also pushing for Tanzania to reinstate the cross-border agreement with Kenya to protect these elephants, with a petition on Change.org calling for signatures.
“Male elephants grow throughout their lifetime, as do their tusks.… By selecting older individuals, hunters not only have a damaging effect on elephant lives and society, but are negatively influencing the genetic future of the Amboseli population, not to mention the ecosystem’s tourism potential,” says the Joint Statement. Big Life added in their own statement, that “old bulls are not past their reproductive prime, as hunters contend. Research has shown that elephant bulls only reproduce consistently by age 40, by which time 75% of them will have died. So older bulls are in fact disproportionately important for breeding.”
Meanwhile, the African Professional Hunters Association has warned its members not to share photos on social media of hunted species that will “inflame public opinion”, and not to “deliberately market” any areas as “bordering non-hunting areas”. “The reality is that there are certain elephant bulls that we simply must avoid a confrontation with.… As to ignore such could come at grave cost to the entire act of elephant hunting,” reads the letter to members.
Since the killing of the third elephant, Africa Geographic has consulted with sources close to the hunt. While confirming that an elephant was shot in Enduimet, most sources refused to be named or provide documentation for fear of their safety. However, speculation on the identity of the hunting company and hunters involved is rife, with one prominent Texan hunter openly posting details of daily hunting activities in Enduimet on social media during the same period that the third elephant was shot. In the days following the killing of the elephant, he made his Instagram account private and has been inactive since. According to Instagram posts from the hunting party, the individuals were operating on a 21-day hunting license and killed at least 19 other animals during this period, including spotted hyenas, Patterson’s eland, Grant’s gazelle, gerenuk, Kirk’s dik-dik, lesser kudu, as well as wildebeest and zebra for “bait for a cat hunt”.
Various statements from within the trophy hunting industry, including the statement by Tanzanian spokesperson Michel Mantheakis addressed to Africa Geographic, indicate that there is a rising trend amongst a small faction of the industry for concealing these hunts targeting super tuskers rather than moving away from hunting them.
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Kingsley Holgate in Nkhotakota + saving cranes
Last weekend, I attended a joyous event that renewed my faith in local conservation efforts. A particularly beneficial 2,364 hectares of privately owned land has been added to Timbavati in the Greater Kruger – consolidating the significant conservation success of this wonderful Big 5 private nature reserve that shares an unfenced border with Kruger National Park. We watched as Wiggill and de Vos family members cut the wire fence that has, since I can remember, prevented wildlife from accessing an extensive stretch of the Klaserie River. Research projects have commenced to measure the impact on biodiversity and large trees as elephants move in to utilise what was forbidden fruit.
Meanwhile, a short distance away at my home, the warthog boars have started lip-clacking, heralding the start of the rut. The loud metallic clacking goes on for hours as the tunnel-vision gents follow the sows, nose to tail. Unfortunately the rainy season has been disappointing; some bushwillow trees are already turning orange, and the sparse grass has withered to straw. Are we in for a harsh dry season ahead?
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
And now for more news worth celebrating: A bird thought to be lost to science has been rediscovered in the cloud forests of the Democratic Republic of Congo. Not just one, but 18 yellow-crested helmetshrikes reappeared in bright yellow helmeted glory, chattering away in the trees, to a herpetology team from the University of Texas – who were exploring the forests on the mountain of the Itombwe Massif. The helmetshrike, which has not been seen in two decades, is endemic to the western slopes of the Albertine Rift. And the cherry on top? The discovery provides further motivation to drive the protection of these tropical forests from mining and logging.
Below, read about Kingsley Holgate’s expedition to Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve, and learn about the intricacies of crane conservation in South Africa’s wetlands.
This iconic 8-day safari combines the wildlife riches of Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park with the awe-inspiring majesty of Victoria Falls. First, you’ll visit Khwai to get your predator fix, then move on to Chobe to witness massive herds of elephants and other wildlife along the banks of the Chobe River. Last but not least, the grand finale: witnessing the mighty Zambezi River plunging into the misty gorges below at Zimbabwe’s iconic Victoria Falls.
This is the glamping safari of your dreams: six days in the intoxicating Okavango Delta on a fully catered mobile safari. You’ll be led by experienced guides while exploring Khwai Community Concession and Moremi Game Reserve. Go in search of the big cats and wild dogs in the dry woodlands and floodplains, and glide silently down meandering waterways in a mokoro to find hippos, elephants and avian candy.
Have you entered our Photographer of the Year 2024 yet? Submit your photos showcasing the exceptional biodiversity of Africa – from its oceans and lakes to its forests, savannahs, and grasslands. Share your photos featuring Africa’s incredible wildlife, diverse cultures and breathtaking landscapes, and you may become a winner. Don’t forget to check out the awesome prizes on offer – an impactful conservation safari and personal sponsorship of a lion research collar for each of our three winners. We look forward to seeing your submissions!
WATCH: Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve is Malawi’s oldest and largest reserve – encompassing 1,800km² of wild and rugged terrain. It extends east from the edge of the escarpment of the Great Rift Valley to just short of the shoreline of Lake Malawi. It is the ideal playground for hikers, mountain bikers and wilderness-seekers. Nkhotakota is Africa at her most raw and beautiful, removed from the indignities of mass commercial tourism. (06:03) Click here to watch
We’re supposed to be quiet at Henry Nsamjama Hide in Nkhotakota, but Kingsley’s stomach is giving out a series of frightening gurgles and groans. We get the giggles. “Must be worms, or that massive breakfast they served at the Environmental Centre,” he says with a grimace. “There’s a worm dose in the first aid kit,” Ross says helpfully, as the tummy gives out a particularly loud trumpeting sound. “Shhh – you’ll scare the elephants.” There follows a long, drawn-out jumbo-like rumble. We can smell and hear them in the forest…but then we realise it’s Kingsley again, and the elephants are quickly gone, disappearing like grey ghosts – too much competition! Sheelagh Antrobus shares news from the road.
A pair of hamerkops head-bob on the water’s edge as if in a whisper just audible above the Beard’s stomach growlings. We discuss how they are a close relative of the shoebills we’d recently seen in Bangweulu Wetlands. We watch a herd of roan antelope, kudu, waterbuck and a magnificent ebony-black male sable with huge scimitar horns walk serenely across the forest-fringed grasslands. Scenes like this would have been impossible 10 years ago.
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
It’s been called ‘one of the world’s largest restoration efforts.’ Nestled beneath the Chipata Mountain, a vast network of rivers weave through the wooded hills and dense miombo forests that make up Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve. First proclaimed in 1938, it is Malawi’s largest and was once home to 2,000+ elephants. But by 2012, years of ivory poaching had reduced the elephant population to a mere 100 animals, charcoal and logging were out of control and what was once a sanctuary for many wildlife species had diminished to a silent and empty forest. In 2015, the Malawian government joined forces with African Parks, and so began Nkhotakota’s journey of revival.
Fellow adventurers have an uncanny way of bumping into each other in the most unexpected of places. On a sandy track, we meet up with good Kiwi mate and keen conservationist Pete Eastwood, his brother Kevin and the lovely Adele. They’ve spent a few days here and scribble these words in the expedition Scroll:
“Nhotakota is a place of peace, tranquillity, pristine forests and friendly people, a Garden of Eden being restored with animals that once belonged here, and a reflection of what Malawi looked like a millennia ago.”
Kingsley with overlanders Kevin, Adele and Pete, who paused their journey to sign the Scroll
We’ve travelled this ‘Warm Heart of Africa’ many times before, most recently last year on our world-first – the transcontinental Hot Cape-Cold Cape expedition from Cape Aghulas on Africa’s southern tip to Nordkapp in Norway’s Arctic Circle in the new Land Rover Defenders. Over the years, we’ve seen first-hand the massive deforestation in this small country, caused by logging, charcoal, agriculture and population explosion. Now, as we get to explore Nkhotakota’s vast, still intact forests, we realise what a miracle of conservation it is that this piece of wilderness has not only survived but now has a new lease on life.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
It’s a Saturday afternoon but park manager David Nangoma is hard at work at their newly built HQ. The set-up is immaculate: graded roads, neat-as-a-pin workshops and fresh new signage give the sense of a place confidently being reborn. Smiling, cheerful, positive and with a playful sense of humour, we immediately warm to him. Raised in the Serengeti by his grandparents, David’s love for wildlife began at an early age. The afternoon hours speed past as he regales us with fascinating tales of both adversity and triumph – the greatest being 500 Elephants, the biggest and most successful elephant translocation in the world that took place in 2016-2017.
500 elephants were introduced into Nkhotakota between 2016 and 2017
This remarkable story had a two-fold mission: to restock Nkhotakota and reduce elephant overpopulation pressure on Malawi’s Liwonde National Park and Majete Wildlife Reserve. It’s easy to imagine the massive scale of it all; swarms of helicopters, teams of rangers, wildlife vets, game capture experts and volunteers including Prince Harry, big cranes and long convoys of flat-bed trucks transporting 500 elephants 350km by road across Malawi to Nkhotakota, along with 2,000 other animals. Then last year, a further 800 animals were reintroduced. In just seven years, this green jewel has been transformed into a thriving haven for wildlife and a tourism asset for the people of Malawi.
Kingsley examines the poaching material used to construct the elephant sculpture, named “Problem”
Nkhotakota’s environmental education centre is arguably the best we’ve ever seen – a work of art designed in the shape of an elephant. Along with the colourful and descriptive murals and information boards, conference centre and restaurant (great grub and friendly staff) the other main attraction is a life-sized elephant statue called ‘Problem’. Constructed from wire snares and jagged-tooth saw blades confiscated from illegal loggers, and dozens of poachers’ homemade firearms of every type, shape and bore, it epitomises the struggle that Nkhotakota’s elephants and other wildlife have endured.
David Nangoma holds the expedition’s Zulu calabash, having topped it up with water from the Bua River, and the “talking stick”, with the Nkhotakota team in the background
David is rightly proud of Nkhotakota’s transformation but reminds us that community education and awareness are key to the park’s survival: “If conservation education isn’t inculcated at a young age, children will grow up with a mindset that every animal is only a food source, and trees are only good for fuel. But if they learn early, they will become long-term ambassadors for Africa’s wildlife,” he says as we walk down a steep footpath to the Bua River, Nkhotakota’s principal water course. In a spectacular setting of rapids, pools, thick forest and elephant tracks crisscrossing the sandy banks, David – looking carefully out for crocs (“there are some monsters here”) – balances on the rocks to add a symbolic splash to the expedition’s Zulu calabash.
Nkhotakota’s principal watercourse, the Bua River, hosts some monster crocodiles
Timothy Maseku, Nkhotakota’s community extension manager, tells us that the park now provides hundreds of jobs, and thousands of people living on the boundaries benefit from income-generating projects such as beekeeping, dried-mango processing, chilli farming and irrigation. Schools and wildlife clubs have planted a whopping 100,000 trees and community members are regularly allowed into the park to harvest mushrooms, bamboo, thatching grass and medicinal herbs.
Community projects around Nkhotakota have been helping to reforest the park by planting trees
With Timothy and his energetic team, we roll up at a community school for a fun morning of conservation education and a wildlife art competition. The kids overcome their shyness to recite their wildlife-themed poetry, before swarming around the expedition Defenders for an impromptu geography lesson, using the Afrika Odyssey map printed on the bonnet. Then, at an African Parks-built community clinic that cares for hundreds of households, we’re able to provide eye tests and reading glasses to grannies and grandpas, and in a campaign supported by Land Rover, malaria prevention education and mosquito nets for pregnant women and mums with young children. What a great vibe – dancing, singing, and appreciating the good neighbourliness coming from the park.
Children from the communities on Nkhotakota’s boundary take part in the conservation art competition
Our base camp is at the tented Nkhotakota youth hostel inside the reserve. To the timeless sounds of an African night, Jacob Kwakwala talks animatedly about his work. “32 kids at a time from the surrounding communities come and stay here every weekend – it’s all about learning and seeing the wildlife. This camp and our education centre provide unforgettable memories, key to unlocking children’s understanding of the need to protect the environment.”
On our last morning, we’re astonished to find a huge crowd waiting at the park’s HQ – it seems everyone has turned out to say farewell: David and the management team, tough-looking rangers, Timothy and his community crew, staff from the Education Centre, even workshop mechanics. All insist on writing personalised messages of hope for Africa’s conservation in the expedition scroll and posing for a jolly team photo. We leave to cheerful shouts of “Zikomo Kwambiri – come back soon!”
Nkhotakota’s rangers line up to sign the expedition Scroll
What’s been achieved here at Nkhotakota in just 7 years is incredible. As we turn the expedition Defenders south down the shores of Lake Malawi, the words of Peter Fearnhead (CEO of African Parks) come to mind: “Seldom do we hear good news about elephants in Africa. This successful translocation was a pivotal moment for Malawi, which has emerged as a leader in African elephant conservation and park restoration. Rehoming 500 elephants and knowing they will thrive in Nkhotakota is a story of hope and survival, and a real example of what is possible with good collaboration.”
Wattled cranes rely on wetlands and grasslands for survival – linking them to the human populations that depend on these ecosystems
Wattled cranes are the largest crane species in Africa; globally Vulnerable but Critically Endangered in South Africa and Ethiopia. They rely on wetlands for breeding, and natural grasslands account for 75% of their breeding territory. It is, in fact, these characteristics of the wattled crane breeding biology that most significantly tie humanity to wattled cranes. Endangered Wildlife Trust’s Lara Jordan reports
In South Africa, the wattled crane population has declined by 35% over 20 years, leading to the population falling to numbers as low as 131 in 1995. In a water-scarce country like South Africa, wetlands play a crucial role through the storage, purification, stream-flow regulation and recharging of groundwater. All Earth’s creatures rely on natural water mechanisms (such as wetlands and rivers) for survival. But in South Africa, 35–50% of wetlands have been lost. In KwaZulu-Natal, the stronghold of South Africa’s wattled crane population, an estimated 50% of wetlands were lost between the 1950s and early 1980s. The loss of these wetlands is ascribed to damming, draining, afforestation, overgrazing, road building, siltation, and water abstraction. As the South African human population continues to increase, so too will water demands.
Occupying a complex space
Unfortunately, natural grasslands come under similar pressure as wetlands: only 2.8% of all grasslands are protected. Moreover, 65% of grasslands in South Africa have been irreversibly transformed through maize, sunflowers, sorghum, and wheat production. The mining industry, urban development, and rural sprawl are destroying vast areas of intact grasslands. These impacts, combined with the degradation of the biodiversity of grasslands through overgrazing, poor management, and lack of resources, are contributing to the increasing pressure on wattled cranes.
The mesic grasslands in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands and Southern Drakensberg, where wattled cranes breed, require a specific management practice. Mesic grasslands occur in higher rainfall areas, where fires and grazing are meant to maintain landscape biodiversity. The climate in these regions consists of low precipitation, allowing grasslands to thrive. Good management of these grasslands mirrors natural ecosystem processes, so land users will burn in winter to allow for diverse new growth. Likewise, managing grazing livestock on these lands is a vital balance between climate, correct stocking density and limiting the time livestock is fed on an area. Limiting this time imitates the migration of antelope such as eland over this land.
Wattled cranes are winter breeders, and it is in this complex space that we find them successfully breeding. Disturbance at wattled crane nest sites impacts the breeding success of the species, and if landscape-management practices are not sensitive to breeding birds, then the success of the nest is unlikely. As wattled cranes primarily breed on farmlands, they depend entirely on the goodwill of landowners and farmers.
Wattled cranes living alongside their domestic land sharers
Preserving wattled crane habitat
Over the last three decades, conservation efforts have focused on preserving wattled crane nest sites by working with land users and farmers to develop sustainable practices. Through these efforts, we have observed a steadily increasing trend for wattled cranes within KwaZulu-Natal. In 2020, we recorded the most significant population count – of 399 wattled cranes – as part of an annual aerial survey. These surveys are conducted by the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT)/International Crane Foundation Partnership, the EWT/Eskom Strategic Partnership and Ezemvelo KwaZulu-Natal Wildlife (the provincial conservation authority).
A wattled-crane chick rescue before the necessary wetland and grassland burn
During this time, we have collected many success stories of our work. We have supported farmers by protecting an egg or a chick during the necessary winter burns. In these areas we have prevented further landscape degradation by helping farmers place the land into Biodiversity Stewardship Schemes, and helped farmers turn these tracts of land into nature reserves. We have worked with farmers to remove fences in which wattled cranes have been caught. We have engaged with communities to share the value of the species. We have educated communities on why feral dogs are a threat to cranes. This nest-by-nest approach may seem to be a slow method of increasing a population. Still, it is now a proven technique, and with only an estimated 81 nesting territories in KwaZulu-Natal, every nest site matters. Advancements to the monitoring repertoire include satellite transmitters on wattled cranes to understand their movement. Understanding the non-breeding birds that account for 50% of the wattled crane population is important. Furthermore, understanding the species’ habitat preference and their nesting, foraging, and roosting requirements is vital to ensure a habitable landscape remains for the species.
Wattled crane nesting territory against the backdrop of a rural community where feral dogs harassed the birds at the nest site
It was the Greek philosopher Heraclitus who was quoted saying, “Everything changes, nothing stands still”. This is an astute observation for these post-Covid times. Costs are increasing – especially fuel costs – causing the cost of food to increase. The war in Russia has impacted fertiliser costs, further increasing food prices. Farming is changing to keep up with costs, and land ownership is changing due to economic challenges. The culmination of these impacts has increased the workload for conservationists who must develop new relationships as land changes ownership, to maintain the work being done in the home range of wattled cranes. This vital nest-to-nest monitoring will remain a prominent part of wattled crane conservation to mitigate threats – and needs to be maintained.
As we look into the future, new threats that far exceed the scale previously utilised for wattled crane conservation are emerging. Avian influenza and malaria can severely impact the population of wattled cranes. The changing distribution patterns of diseases – which evolve due to climate change – will have to be monitored across South Africa due to the high movement patterns of fowl. This will need to form part of a national, if not international, effort.
Wattled cranes rely entirely on the goodwill of landowners and farmers for survival
Wattled cranes and water
The increase in floods and droughts that are affecting South Africa impact people AND wildlife. These extreme conditions impact wattled crane chick survival and could further reduce breeding success for the species. Yet, we are fortunate that wattled crane needs are aligned with the needs and desires of the human population. We require water, and so do the cranes. This will not change. The conversion of wetlands to dams with the correct research and technical input could provide nesting territories, supporting the species’ population growth.
Protecting wetlands benefits cranes – and it also protects people in the face of climatic extremes. Intact wetlands can help control flooding and contribute to water resilience during droughts. Similarly, grasslands are a vital grazing resource for commercial and subsistence farmers. Appropriate grassland and wetland management is a skill that needs to be learned to maximise stock production, whilst preserving the grasslands over the long term.
Wattled cranes are dependent on wetlands for nesting. This chick, just a few days old, can swim across to the nest site, where it is protected from predators
Predicted climate change for South Africa will likely cause a shift in the production of maize in the core wattled-crane home range. As other areas become too dry or too prone to drought, we expect to see an increase in the conversion of grasslands to maize lands in the Midlands and Southern Drakensberg. Maize is the staple diet for many South Africans. More conversion of grasslands to cultivated fields will cause a new decline in the population of wattled cranes. The South African human population is 60.41 million and is expected to increase to 62.90 million by 2025. Invariably, the increase in human population will worsen current pressures on wattled cranes. So, perhaps the biggest threat to wattled cranes in South Africa is the increasing demand for food for a rising population. Add to this climatic changes, which cause agricultural needs to expand within the home range of the wattled cranes. The future of cranes rests in the uncertainty of this space.
Researchers have uncovered a looming extinction crisis for Africa’s birds of prey, painting a grim picture for the continent’s raptors. Read more here.
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Our CEO tackles hunting chairman + Photographer of the Year OPEN
I wrote the open letter below with huge reluctance. We (all of us) have better things to do than respond to public attacks on our integrity, and yet here we are.
We were going to ignore the rambling ideological sermon aimed at AG a few weeks ago, but after numerous nudges from far and wide we changed tack. Urgh, I hated every second of the writing process – some written deep in the Congo rainforest where we marvelled at the magnificent wildlife and enjoyed the company of welcoming locals. There is so much to celebrate, and here I am wasting precious energy on this relic industry from a bygone era. Yet someone has to stand up to this stuff, and inject common sense and factual accuracy into a topic that is smothered in layers of misinformation.
On a more important note, how are you? Every Wednesday morning when I sit on the verandah with my mug of coffee and envisage my thoughts for today’s newsletter, I feel a huge sense of companionship and shared passion. Thank you
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
We are SO EXCITED to announce that Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for entries TODAY – see more details below. Villiers Steyn’s photo gallery from Chitake Springs, also below, will help provide photo inspiration.
On a more sombre note, South Africa’s rhino poaching stats for 2023 show a concerning increase in rhinos lost. 499 rhinos were poached in 2023 – an 11% rise in poaching. And while there has been a decrease in rhinos poached from the Kruger National Park, poachers have now turned to KwaZulu-Natal’s Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park, which bore the brunt of the losses – 307 last year. Government will need to better support anti-poaching initiatives and NGOs to tip the scales in the rhinos’ favour. We provide a full report on the Kruger rhino population every year – to be updated soon, once detailed figures are available.
Looking for a unique safari experience? Check out our art safaris, where Africa’s wildlife will inspire your creative talents. Whether you’re a passionate beginner or a seasoned creator, these popular safaris guided by a professional artist will nurture your soul.
Buffalo Ridge Safari Lodge in malaria-free Big 5 Madikwe Game Reserve, South Africa, will serve as your home base. Enjoy morning and afternoon game drives, attend daytime art workshops and sketch wildlife in the best setting possible. 12–19 September 2024 – only 1 spot left!
Soak up the atmosphere of the Big 5 Timbavati Private Nature Reserve in the Greater Kruger, South Africa and channel it into artistry! 21–27 September 2024 – only 1 spot left!
Dust off your cameras because Photographer of the Year 2024 is here! Start searching your photo collections for that phenomenal image. We’re looking for your photos that celebrate Africa and capture the continent’s splendour, from wildlife action and landscapes to African culture and safari experiences.
WATCH: Photographer of the Year 2024 promises to go down in history as the best one ever! We have extraordinary prizes on offer – including the chance to contribute to lion conservation in Hwange. Find out more and take inspiration from last year’s entries by watching this video. Start sending your entries now! (01:29) Click here to watch
I first heard of Chitake Springs when I was seven years old. The place where lions live in gangs, not prides, and where buffalo herds are so big, they kick up dust clouds that darken the skies. Fast forward 34 years, and Chitake Springs is much the same. Instead of daydreaming about it, I’ve just dusted off my camera after spending eight unforgettable days there leading a photographic safari for Africa Geographic.
As the crow flies, Chitake Springs lies approximately 50km from the Zambezi River in Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools National Park. Unlike the rich flood plains along the Zambezi, where relaxed elephant bulls and packs of curious African wild dogs pose in an iconic blue haze, the Chitake River habitat is much more rugged. Massive sausage trees, wild mangos and Zambezi figs line the edge of the riverbed, while ancient baobabs tower over the burnt orange landscape like sentinels. And fresh water bubbles up right throughout the year from the white sand in the river below. This water attracts thirsty buffalo and the hungry lions that hunt them. While exploring the area on foot, however, we learnt that it’s also the lifeblood for myriad other species.
The fresh water of Chitake Springs bubbles up from white sands in the river, attracting animals to drink
During our trip, we camped in the dense riverine thicket alongside the Chitake River downstream from the spring itself. Each morning at 5.30 am, I was woken by the cheerful song of a white-browed robin-chat, followed by the footsteps of professional guide Carl Nicholson, who ensured that no dangerous animals were lurking nearby. Tropical boubous and crested guinea fowl soon joined the dawn chorus while we sipped freshly brewed ‘moerkoffie’ around the fire.
We left our campsite on foot at sunrise, following the well-used elephant paths in the riverbed upstream towards the spring. The camp’s resident troop of baboons usually accompanied us, thankfully less interested in our leftover toast than they were in the fresh elephant dung scattered in the sand. Their antics made for some stunning golden-hour photographs.
Depending on the direction and distance of the lion roars he had heard at night, Carl would choose different vantage points on the riverbank to scan the surroundings. We hoped to spot Hollywood, the biggest of three adult males, or any of the other 17-odd pride members that call Chitake home, and we weren’t disappointed. The only thing we saw more than the lions were their tracks, which crisscrossed the riverbed each morning. Luckily, Carl is an expert tracker, and more often than not, we followed him over the freshest set to Lion Triangle, a sunlit shelf close to where the river bends sharply that has become a favourite resting place for the lions.
It’s up to here that the water from the spring trickles before disappearing beneath the sand again, and, photographically speaking, it was my favourite spot. When there were no lions nearby, we lay flat on our stomachs in the sand, waiting for vibrant flocks of Lilian’s lovebirds to swoop in and quench their thirst right in front of us. On several occasions, impalas would also come down, providing more amazing ground-level photographic opportunities.
Around 9 am, our backup guide, Manu, would meet us at a fig tree overlooking the spring, loaded with coffee, tea and camping chairs. We’d usually sit until eleven, hoping a large herd of buffalo would come thundering down one of the many dusty chutes surrounding the spring. Since they drink at any time of the day, it’s a gamble, and twice we just missed them – once leaving an hour before they drank and another time arriving ten minutes too late.
On our second-to-last morning, however, luck was on our side. We were staking out the water when we heard the characteristic chirps of red-billed oxpeckers, followed by deep grunts and the dull thudding of heavy hooves. We quickly chose a safe spot from which to photograph the action and watched as more than two hundred buffalo stampeded down into the riverbed, briefly disappearing in their dust cloud before nearly draining the spring dry.
The springs attract massive herds of buffalo
Around midday, we gathered under a colossal sausage tree in the centre of camp. We recounted such memorable moments while feasting on freshly baked bread rolls loaded with gooseberry jam before settling into a shady spot to pass the hot September afternoons. This was also an excellent time to look for seldom-seen birds like eastern nicators, red-throated twinspots and Livingstone’s fly-catchers, all of which are residents at Chitake.
Since it was too hot to walk in the afternoons, we typically took a short game drive around 4 pm each afternoon. On more than one occasion, we found lions resting in trees, supposedly to get respite from the relentless heat and tsetse flies. We returned to camp shortly after sunset each evening, when herds of ghostly elephants slowly made their way to the water. The only thing more remarkable than their silent footsteps was Carl’s sixth sense, which ensured we saw them before they strolled past our campsite. Why they drink almost exclusively at night at Chitake remains a mystery.
With an empty bucket shower and a full belly, I went to bed each night to the haunting soundtrack of spotted hyenas and the roars of Hollywood and his brothers. I felt like a child again, and like seven-year-old me on safari, I wished for The Sandman to come early so I could wake up again to the song of the white-browed robin-chat and another day in this wild and extraordinary place.
Sipping freshly brewed ‘moerkoffie’ around the fireHeading down to the springs to search for photographic opportunitiesHerds of impalas drinking at the springs provide amazing ground-level photosAn eastern nicator entertains guests near the tents during the heat of the dayThe party encountered members of Chitake’s 17-odd lion pride regularly“On more than one occasion, we found lions resting in trees, supposedly to get respite from the relentless heat and tsetse flies.”The photographers lay flat in the sand, waiting for vibrant flocks of Lilian’s lovebirds to visit the springs“The only thing we saw more than the lions were their tracks.”Gridlocks of buffalos would often visit to drain the fresh waters of the springsA side-striped jackal taking time out in the heatSpotting cubs near the springs was a treatThe group would wait daily for buffalos to head down the dusty chutes to the watersHeading out along the riverbed in search of the day’s treasures
Join Villiers on a photographic safari
Villiers Steyn and Africa Geographic will be leading a photographic safari from 20-28 September 2024 – this time to Mana Pools, Zimbabwe. You’ll immerse yourself in the best that Mana Pools has to offer – from floodplains to valley – and enjoy excellent photographic opportunities and guidance. Only two spaces left! To book this8-night safari for $9,322pps, contact our travel team here. (This safari does not go to Chitake Springs. To check out a safari to Chitake Springs, click here).
BACKGROUND: We approached Michel Mantheakis – chairman of the Tanzanian Hunting Operators Association (TAHOA) – before publishing our report on the recent trophy hunting of two super tuskers in Tanzania. We requested that he provide specific information and context so that our report would be accurate and contextual. He acknowledged our request and undertook to respond but failed to reply thereafter. Other experts were happy to reply to our questions. Once our report went live, Mantheakis compiled this letter, which he circulated widely. We requested evidence of his claims in this letter, and he undertook to provide those but failed again to do so. Our CEO, Simon Espley, responds.
Dear Mr Mantheakis
I am responding with reluctance after advice and requests from several corners, including members of the trophy hunting industry who seem embarrassed by your actions. I fact-check your claims below, but first, this:
You were recommended to us by a highly regarded member of the Tanzanian conservation industry as the ideal person to help us understand the facts behind the trophy hunts referred to above. And so, during our research, we emailed you in good faith in your capacity as chairman of TAHOA. We hoped that you would provide the required input and help us maintain our 32-year tradition of accurate reporting on these sensitive matters.
Our request to you was for the specifics related to these hunts. Yet, your public response after our report was a generic ideological sermon, complete with misinformation, unsubstantiated claims and cheap shots aimed at Africa Geographic.
Our report provided verified facts about the two hunts alongside necessary context and input from respected conservation experts. You were given the opportunity to be part of that equation, but you chose to abstain. Instead, you chose to deflect from the topic and inject anger and bitterness. Surely you can see that your approach is not conducive to much-needed constructive engagement and problem-solving? We remain open to constructive dialogue if you decide to provide facts specific to these hunts.
Important context:
Judging by your letter, you do not represent the broader hunting industry. There are examples of trophy hunting industry operators in open ecosystems who play significant roles in ecosystem and biodiversity conservation. There are also numerous examples of hunting in private reserves and fenced farms, which provide conservation benefits. Timbavati Private Nature Reserve (mentioned by you) is a good example. The sector of hunting that you ostensibly represent surgically removes certain FREE-ROAMING animals with sought-after traits and seems bereft of scientific rigour and moral compass. This distinction we make between the various aspects of the broader hunting industry is essential if we are to weed out harmful practices.
Your letter suggests that you hold the key to wildlife conservation outside of national parks – that others, such as NGOs, scientists, researchers and the photographic tourism industry – are de facto irrelevant. Your choice of words is exclusive, not inclusive, and the arrogance of your claims beggars belief.
Our journey is different. We believe in transparency, accountability and constructive dialogue amongst all parties to find practical science-based solutions to today’s reality – burgeoning human populations and massive threats to biodiversity and ecosystems. That’s why we requested your input into these specific hunts. If you require further information about our methodology,refer to our manifesto.
Now, to correct the misinformation in your letter:
1. Your words:
“The Tanzania Tourist Hunting industry is 130 years old, and it has been well-regulated throughout its existence. It is recognized as the only viable form of land use in game reserves and areas with wildlife outside the National Parks and the Ngorongoro Conservation Area.”
“Hunting concessions currently comprise of 260,677 sq km which is 29% of Tanzania’s surface area, hence a much larger area than the 113,621 sq km that National Parks cover which is only 12% of Tanzania’s surface area.”
“I am proud to say that most hunting companies in Tanzania operate their own anti-poaching programs in cooperation with the TAWA at a huge annual cost, to safeguard all the natural resources and wildlife within their hunting concessions to safeguard their business interests.”
FACT CHECK:
You have only presented one side of the coin – the shiny side. Your industry abandoned 110 out of 154 Tanzanian hunting zones in which you had exclusive use – because they were no longer profitable for trophy hunting. That’s 140,000 km² of land – that could’ve benefitted conservation – lost. This land was utilised by the trophy hunting industry you hold in such high esteem – and then abandoned once depleted. This abandoned land no longer contains trophy animals and is being reduced to rack and ruin – playing host to poaching, mining, logging and other harmful activities. That you proudly trumpet the land still being hunted as an example of a “viable” and “well-regulated” industry and ignore the elephant in the room speaks volumes. This pro-hunting article highlights the reality facing the trophy hunting industry in Tanzania. And yet you claim that all is well in your industry …
2. Your words:
“… anti-hunting publications like Africa Geographic. You are not transparent or a balanced media and have a reputation for always twisting the truth to fit your anti-hunting narratives, that only benefits your business interests.”
FACT CHECK:
We emphasise factual accuracy and science, which we acknowledge inconveniences those with an ideological approach. Please educate yourself by visiting our website and typing in the word ‘hunting’ in the search bar. Amongst others, you will find the following interesting articles that help provide information and context behind the hunting industry – telling both sides of the story:
“ You… will not even comment positively on any of the anti-poaching efforts that are funded largely by hunting revenue in the same reserves and to the benefit of the photo tourism camps you promote, who also operate in the Timbavati.”
FACT CHECKS:
A. Your information about Timbavati is incorrect. As recently confirmed to me by a member of their Exco, their considerable anti-poaching efforts are now predominantly funded by photographic tourism, with trophy hunting playing an ever-reducing role.
B. Regarding your claim about my Timbavati writings, I refer you to my opinion editorial in response to misinformation in South African news media about trophy hunting in Timbavati. In this article, I make a strong call for fact-based reporting to replace headline baiting and misinformation.
4. Your words:
“Your anti-hunting activism is causing the loss of thousands of square kilometres per year of wildlife habitat in Tanzania and the illegal slaughter of more wildlife annually than ever taken by hunting.”
FACT CHECK:
As proven above, the Tanzanian trophy hunting industry has been shedding concessions due to overhunting and poor management. That you blame us and a coterie of organisations for this says enough about you and those you represent. If shining a light into dark corners in search of transparency and accountability translates as “anti-hunting” then you have a rocky road ahead. Blaming others will not win any battles against the many threats faced by the wildlife industries – habitat loss, poaching, human-wildlife conflict, and climate change, to name a few. The free-roaming resource is a fraction of what it was, and attitudes are changing. Human populations have expanded at significant environmental cost, and the planet can no longer afford the unfettered removal of diminishing populations of free-roaming animals with specific sought-after genetic traits. You behave like nothing has changed since the 1900s, which is foolish and unsustainable in the modern context. Perhaps you should consider handing over the reins to others who better understand the modern conservation landscape.
5. Your words:
“In Tanzania the CITES quota is only 50 elephant per year out of a population of over 60,0000, that is a very minimal quota of only 0.08% of a stable and growing population”
AND YET:
Our article covered the hunting of two super tuskers and expressed concern about the future of the remaining tiny population of super tuskers – estimated by elephant researchers at 50–100 across Africa. Your topic switch to Tanzania’s entire elephant population is a classic avoidance strategy. This blanket refusal to discuss details while continuing to broadcast misleading generic soundbites again speaks volumes about your strategy to avoid transparency and accountability.
6. Your words:
“2 legally hunted very old and past breeding bull elephant, taken last year, that brought great financial benefit to both the Government and local communities.”
AND YET:
We requested information from you about these two bulls and specifics about the benefits for local communities – to help explain the context to our audience. You did not provide that information. Transparency should lie at the core of any sustainable industry. The information vacuum you left has again been filled by rampant speculation on social media. That’s on you – don’t blame us or others for the consequences of your actions. If you were more transparent and accountable, the discussions would be more relevant and productive, and there would be less fodder for peddlers of misinformation.
CRUCIALLY:
Update 14/03/2024: Amboseli Trust for Elephants has positively identified the first trophy-hunted bull as Gilgil, a breeding elephant aged 35, who would have been approaching his prime reproductive years. Male elephants reach their prime breeding years at or about 40 years. Our sources confirm Gilgil was a ‘100-pounder’, with one tusk weighing 99 pounds and the other 110 pounds.
7. Your words:
“240 Tanzanians were killed by Elephant. Anybody who finds this irrelevant is unconscionable and has no moral authority to criticize Tanzania’s National conservation policy and efforts.”
AND YET:
This is a rather basic attempt at bait-and-switch. These two hunts we reported on had nothing to do with human-wildlife conflict, and the hunts were not to remove ‘problem animals’. On this occasion, our article does not address the terrible burden imposed on some of Africa’s rural people by dangerous animals. We cover this matter extensively on our website – here is an example: Life with Elephants. Please do not cheapen this important matter by attaching your flag to the human rights cause. The trophy hunting industry is hardly the poster child for human rights or skills uplifting and empowering Africa’s rural villagers.
8. Your words:
“You seem to think there is sinister wrongdoing in disposing of Elephant carcass by burning or burying it; however, in this part of Tanzania it is actually a very responsible conservation act to prevent pastoral people from poisoning the carcass, which if you had done your research, is commonly practiced in order to kill Lion, Leopard and Hyena that frequently prey on their livestock.”
AND YET:
We asked you to provide important contextual information about the burning of carcasses. Again, you did not. We were advised by several professional hunters – one associated with TAHOA – that this is a highly uncommon practice.
9. Your words:
“The anti-hunting community intentionally refuses to distinguish between Conservation-Based Hunting, which is a selective, sustainable and a legal tool of conservation, and poaching, which is an illegal and devastating criminal act.”
HERE’S THE THING:
Claiming to be “sustainable” does not make it so, no matter how loud you shout. What about the current situation makes you think what you do is sustainable? Trophy hunting of free-roaming animals is an extraction industry (like mining and hardwood logging), and any claim of sustainability has to be proven based on data. Show me accurate historic population stats of Tanzania’s target species (including large-tusked elephants as a genetic focus) compared to annual offtakes of each. If your industry were genuinely sustainable, you would not avoid providing these facts and details specific to each hunt.
In my considered opinion, if an activity further reduces the population of a species or genetic trait already in decline, then that activity is, by definition, not sustainable. Claiming that other factors contributing to population declines are ‘worse’ illustrates a lack of conservation thinking. That you insist on this ongoing veil of secrecy suggests that you are aware that your activities are not sustainable and hope to continue for as long as you can get away with it. In that way, I believe you do not represent the best interests of the broader hunting industry.
FINALLY
You speak of “working together” and us being “conservation partners”. We approached you in the spirit of that august goal. Yet you ignored our request for information that would have provided further accuracy and context. Instead, you chose to sully our name with a toxic mix of misinformation and condescending generalisations that have little relevance to Africa Geographic or the topic at hand – and which you refuse to back up with relevant evidence. That is not how partners behave. Your actions were cowardly and invidious – certainly not exemplary behaviour from the chairman of a respected trophy-hunting organisation.
I can’t help wondering what happened to that core trophy-hunting principle of FAIR CHASE. To recall the words of Cynthia Moss: “Shooting an Amboseli bull is about as sporting as shooting your neighbour’s poodle”. Is this what your sector of trophy hunting has been reduced to?
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
For the sake of transparency, this was our emailed request to you, sent on 29 December 2023 and acknowledged by you on 2 January 2024 (two points redacted as these are still under investigation):
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Raptors in crisis + Holgate in Bangweulu + Odzala-Kokoua adventure
Just in from Congo-Brazzaville – Odzala-Kokoua National Park to be precise. This was my first safari to west-Central Africa (unlike some in my team) and so many animals and birds we encountered were personal lifers, and the many and varied night sounds not easy to identify. The mouthwatering list of mammals we did not get to see – like potto, Lord Derby’s flying squirrel, elegant galago and long-tailed pangolin (to name a few) – means I will certainly be back. And then there are the extraordinary forest birds – we did not even scratch the surface.
What an adventure – from crashing our drone into a tributary of the Congo River (it survived after 5 minutes of underwater filming – including some very curious fish!) to an early morning two-hour bash through dense forest understory in the pitch dark to get to the remote Lokoue baï where we watched Western lowland gorillas feeding on tasty treats. Expect a travel diary in the not-too-distant future.
Did you know that Madagascar has reintroduced giant tortoises, that last wandered the island 600 years ago, to its shores? But that’s not the best part. Introducing these tortoises may be the key to restoring woodlands and limiting wildfires across Madagascar’s grasslands.
The project, which began in 2018 with a group brought in from Seychelles, aims to rewild Madagascar with thousands of the Aldabra giant tortoises. Historically, these tortoises were important ecosystem engineers in Madagascar, before they were wiped out by hunters. The tortoises feed on dry materials on the forest floor, mopping up the dry fuel that aids fires, and also disperse seeds in their droppings, aiding the proliferation of woodland habitat. The daring conservation strategy behind the reintroduction suggests the 350kg tortoises will help restore Madagascan forests, grassy woodlands and shrublands.
Don’t miss our stories this week on Kingsley Holgate’s expedition to Bangweulu Wetlands, and the dire situation of raptors in Africa, below.
We have two thrilling safaris lined up for those seeking a water-inspired introduction to some of Africa’s best destinations. Start planning your safari now
Blend the vibey coastal city of Cape Town and the nearby Winelands in South Africa with the safari wilderness of Botswana’s Okavango Delta. Two of Africa’s most popular destinations in one safari!
Experience the two magical islands of São Tomé and Príncipe.
Indulge in the natural, cultural and historical wonders of this one-of-a-kind nation and explore its other-worldly coastline by boat.
Safari report-back
Sharon Traeger and family recently enjoyed our Ultimate Primate Safari. The Traegers began their safari in Kigali and went on to seek out gorillas in Volcanoes NP (Rwanda) and Mgahinga Gorilla NP (Uganda). They then enjoyed a little beachside R&R on the “Rwandan Riviera” at Lake Kivu, before visiting Virunga NP (DRC) and Nyungwe NP (Rwanda). They wrapped up their safari with visits to Mafia Island and Dar es Salaam in Tanzania. Read why Sharon recommends this luxurious experience:
“We had a great experience with guidance from Christian from Africa Geographic. He helped us plan, customise, and experience the Ultimate Primate Safari. We saw gorillas, monkeys, chimpanzees, and whale sharks in their natural settings. Our wonderful guide, Gaston, helped us enjoy East Central Africa with personalised attention and care. Thank you for a truly memorable journey.”
WATCH: WildCRU’s Lion Guardians and Boma Project helps protect communities around Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe, from incidents of human-lion conflict through an innovative early warning system and the use of mobile bomas. The project’s Long Shields Guardian Programme employs and trains local men and women to protect villages from lions, safeguard cattle, and aid wildlife management. (05:47) Click here to watch
Behind us are Iona in Angola, Matusadona in Zimbabwe, and Liuwa Plain and Kafue national parks in Zambia, all of which have shared incredible stories of hope for Africa’s conservation and communities. It’s mid-afternoon by the time we swing onto the road that leads towards the Bangweulu Wetlands in north-eastern Zambia and down a narrow sand track lined with mud-and-thatch homesteads, cassava and maize fields, droves of cheerful, waving kids, heavily laden bicycles and roadrunner chickens.
Then, across rickety plank bridges and through swathes of elephant grass taller than the Defenders, in a race against the setting sun to reach a small, secretive lake called Waka Waka, hidden in the miombo woodlands.
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
Of bicycles and dugouts in Bangweulu
It is not our first time here. Around the campfire, we reminisce about a memory-lane expedition that some 20 years ago had taken us along this same route. With nyama sizzling on the coals and enamel mugs of sustenance, Ross reminds us of how, in those early days, we’d taken our battered old Landy 300 Tdi’s as far as possible into the swamps. The rains had just ended, and it was tough going, the wheels of the overloaded Landies spinning as we pushed, slid and winched through black mud to reach the vast open plains of Bangweulu. And then, in dugout canoes, on old ‘Made in India’ bicycles, and wading through the swamps on foot with a team of porters supplied by Chief Chiundaponde, we’d travelled through the constantly shifting channels and sandbanks.
Crossing the swamps with bicycles (Kingsley Holgate, left) and dugout canoes (Ross Holgate, right), 20 years ago
That night in our tent on the shores of Lake Waka Waka, listening to the sound of the wind sighing in the trees, I think back to how we’d camped at Chikuni Island out on the plains, and then crossed the river by the dugout to arrive at Chief Chitambo’s village.
A lifeline for wildlife
The next day, it’s a quick, early morning bowl of oats with honey and peanut butter, then a dash to meet the African Parks team now working to protect these vast Bangweulu Wetlands – a name in the Bembe language that means ‘where the water meets the sky’ – so vast it’s as if there’s no horizon. At the African Parks’ Nkondo headquarters, we’re met by engaging ethno-biologist Clemmie Borgstein and friendly camp dog Bullet.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? You can plan and book your African Parks safari to Bangweulu Wetlands and other parks by clicking here.
“Bangweulu is one of the most important wetlands in Africa, fed by 17 rivers and drained by just one,” Clemmie explains. “Its story starts in the hills of Lake Tanganyika, where the Chambeshi River streams out from the rocks and down to the Wetlands, delivering a seasonal flood that inundates the plains. The water rises through a shifting complex of channels until it is finally released into the Luapula River, which drains out of the swamps and curves in a great arc to feed into the Congo River system and eventually makes its way to the west coast of Africa to enter the Atlantic Ocean.”
Herds of black lechwe on the plains of Bangweulu
African Parks joined forces with six Community Resource Boards and Zambia’s Department of National Parks and Wildlife in 2008 to create the Bangweulu Wetlands Project. Since then, this community-owned protected area (not a national park) has become a lifeline for wildlife and 60,000-odd people who live within its boundaries and rely on its natural resources.
“This is home to the last significant population of black lechwe and over 400 bird species, including the rare shoebill, but what’s even more unique about Bangweulu is the interface between people and nature,” Clemmie continues. “We can’t lose this landscape to people – and we can’t lose the people to this landscape.”
A shoebill stretches out its wings in the swamps
Smiling, good-natured Lloyd Mulenga, Bangweulu’s community manager, is itching to get going. First up is a visit to the current Chief Chiundaponde to pay our respects and for His Excellency to endorse the expedition’s Scroll. The Chief is fascinated by the Defender 130s and insists on getting behind the wheel, all “ohs and aaahs…so much space” – until he spies the toy snake on our dashboard. He exits the Landy with a speed that belies his age, then doubles over with laughter when Ross assures him that it’s fake but very good at deflecting the interest of pesky traffic cops.
The people’s park of Bangweulu
The next stop is Mwushi Primary School; the teachers and children turn out in huge numbers and perform a comical skit, acting out the stalking walk of shoebill and the massing of black lechwe on the plains. They can’t take their eyes off Kingsley’s beard – after weeks of expedition life, it’s looking incredibly bushy – but only two are brave enough to take up the challenge of giving it a pull. The conservation art competition is a colourful success and it’s good to hear community leaders talking enthusiastically to the children about the importance of preserving the Bangweulu landscape.
In a big tent at the local clinic, we meet scores of poor-sighted elderly people who slowly filter in for eye tests and reading glasses; some brought on the back of bicycle taxis, others walking with the aid of grandchildren – as always, their appreciation is heartwarming.
Expedition members test the eyesight of members of the community for the Right to Sight campaign
Afterwards, we’re treated to a vibrant Bisa cultural event with a traditional lunch of catfish, cassava and chikanda (a polony-looking gastronomic delight made from the tubers of orchids and pounded groundnuts) and a drumbeating, gyrating ‘no-poaching’ song and dance performance; even the delightful midwife from the clinic jumps up and shakes her booty.
Ross Holgate and the African Parks team enjoy a lunch of catfish, cassava and chikanda at the Bisa cultural event
Bangweulu is a people’s-park, divided into swamps, vast plains and agricultural lands – it feels like time has stood still here. We’re keen to reach ‘where the water meets the sky’, so tackle a long dirt track through vibrant villages to reach the heart of the wetlands. Men in jackets and ties on bicycles and brightly dressed women in kangas and headscarves throng the road, many carrying plastic chairs to their simple mud-bricked, thatched-roof churches. Children shout greetings of ‘How are you-you-you?’ and the sounds of Sunday singing and harmony fill the air.
Good humour and a touch of madness
Our wild Nsobe Campsite is idyllic: a little island of trees on a large old antheap that, in the wet season, stands above the flooded plains, with just a simple circle of stones for a fireplace. The surrounding grassy plains are dotted with hundreds of gnome-like, grey termitariums. We dress up one solitary little fellow with a scarf, beanie, sunglasses and binoculars, name it ‘Norman No-mates’ and invite him around for a braai… our expeditions always run on good humour with a touch of madness!
Beyond our base camp, we’re ecstatic to see thousands of black lechwe and tsessebe amassed on the plains, with vast flocks of wattled cranes soaring and dipping like a synchronised aerial ballet. We learn that zebra, puku, waterbuck and buffalo have been re-introduced, the shy sitatunga, oribi and reedbuck are flourishing, and cheetah are back after a century’s absence. This is also the land of the elusive shoebill.
A cheetah tucks into its prey in Bangweulu
It’s not easy being a shoebill
Knowledgeable birding guide Webby Mweya takes us into the wetlands. Poling slowly through the extensive stands of papyrus, passing fishing villages, handwoven reed fish traps and chattering families navigating the channels in their narrow dugouts, we nose into a quiet backwater and find what we’ve been hoping for – one of Africa’s rarest and most curious birds. “Look!” says Webby with excitement. “You can see she is relaxed – eaten too many barbel fish! This shoebill’s name is Hope. She was rescued as a fledgling and then returned to the swamps by Maggie; you must meet her.”
“It’s not easy being a shoebill,” Webby remarks as we take a meandering route to the shoebill rehabilitation facility at Chikuni Island, the only one of its kind in the world. “Fire is a big threat to their nests; eagles and crocodiles take the eggs, and sometimes fishermen steal them. These birds are sought-after in the illegal bird trade. But we now have guards to watch the nests day and night.”
And so, we meet Maggie Hirschbauer, the dedicated shoebill researcher. Armed with a giant, muppet-like puppet, she greets us with “Shhhh!” This is a quiet zone; she doesn’t want the birds disturbed by noise. What follows is a fascinating glimpse into the secret life of shoebills. Just above a whisper, Maggie tells us that Bangweulu is their southernmost range, and there are no more than 8,000 birds left in the wild, existing in a handful of habitats between Zambia and South Sudan. Shoebills live for over 30 years but, as Maggie explains, they practice siblicide, so she removes the second egg and hatches it in an incubator when possible. Raising them isn’t easy either; to stop the chicks from getting used to humans, Maggie dresses in a dark ‘abaya’ and uses the shoebill puppet as a substitute parent.
Kingsley shares the Afrika Odyssey map with shoebill researcher, Maggie Hirschbauer
Silently, we get to observe three adult birds in their bomas; Maggie will release them when Zambia’s annual three-month fishing ban begins in December, and people leave the swamps. Walking to the edge of a channel, she slips off her shoes and wades in to add symbolic Bangweulu water to the expedition calabash, the fifth such ceremony of this Afrika Odyssey expedition.
Our minds stuffed with shoebill info, we wander back to camp through the herds of black lechwe and notice something strange. The air is full of flying spider webs – long, trailing strands of silk being blown by the wind that gets caught in the Defenders’ radio aerials like flying pennants. We stop to take a closer look. The grassy plains are covered in cobwebs, a shimmering sheen stretching as far as the eye can see, glowing gold and red in the rays of the setting sun. It’s stunningly beautiful and adds a special something to Bangweulu’s magic.
A seasonal flood inundates the plains of Bangweulu
The conservation economy of Bangweulu
Our last night is spent around the campfire with park manager Phil Minnaar and the Bangweulu community board members. Sprinkled with Phil’s entertaining bush pilot stories, we learn that the black lechwe population has recovered from 18,000 to over 40,000 today, fish stocks are increasing, poaching is under control, tourism numbers are on the rise and community enterprises (fisheries, honey production and lechwe off-takes) are generating more and more income for the Bangweulu people every year.
“When I arrived here, there were only three small stores in Chiundaponde village, and basic goods were in short supply; now, there are over 30 shops and other businesses, all driven by this conservation-based economy,” says Phil.
Camping at Nsobe Campsite
As the campfire burns low, Sheelagh opens the Scroll and reads Maggie’s heartfelt words:
“The shoebill… A massive flying creature that is utterly unique. Shy, sensitive, secretive, yet it carries a stature to intimidate even the strongest men. The shoebill is Bangweulu’s icon and flagship species because the land, water, community and bird are inextricably linked. If this habitat of vast open sky, fresh crystal-clear water, and variable vegetation of floating grasses, sedges, reeds, and papyrus suffer, if the fish dwindle, the shoebill will disappear – they have nowhere else to go. People, too, rely on this habitat; fishing is the largest economy in the region and forms the undercurrent of their culture. It has been my greatest privilege to know this species and see how the community living in these wetlands is engaging in their conservation. This continued involvement and spread of knowledge of the importance and rarity of these unique creatures will ultimately keep them alive for generations to come.”
It’s a poignant ending to a frenetic and fascinating few days in this ageless landscape. Ahead of us lies an exciting route to reach Malawi, country number four, on this journey to connect 22 African Parks-managed protected areas in 12 countries.
Researchers have uncovered a looming extinction crisis for African raptors
Imagine a world where iconic African raptor species like the secretarybird, Wahlberg’s eagle, African harrier-hawk and brown snake eagle, amongst others, are no longer around – vanished from the landscape. While this may sound like a doomsday prediction, without intervention, this might one day be a reality – especially in the west of the African continent.
In a stark revelation, an international team of researchers has uncovered a potential looming extinction crisis for Africa’s birds of prey, painting a grim picture of the reality faced by these magnificent savannah species. Long-term road surveys across parts of Africa revealed alarming declines in nearly 90% of the 42 raptor species studied, with more than two-thirds possibly qualifying as globally threatened.
The study, co-led by Dr Phil Shaw from the Centre for Biological Diversity at the University of St Andrews in the United Kingdom and Dr Darcy Ogada from the Peregrine Fund, used decades of road surveys across four African regions. The surveys entailed recording the abundance of raptors seen from the road in a stretch of 100 kilometers, and noting how these numbers changed over time. The study was conducted in West Africa (Burkina Faso, Niger and Mali), Central Africa (northern Cameroon), Kenya in East Africa and Botswana in Southern Africa. The study examined encounter rates between 1969 and 1995 and between 2000 and 2020.
Martin Odino, part of the research team, spots raptors in northern Kenya
The results show that larger raptor species have experienced particularly steep declines, especially in unprotected areas, where the birds are more susceptible to persecution and human pressure. Data showed that raptors have declined more than twice as fast outside protected areas, reiterating the urgent need for conservation efforts. Currently, only 14% of land on the African continent is formally protected, with sub-Saharan Africa experiencing the most severe rate of land degradation in the world.
Shaw expressed concern, stating that since the 1970s, extensive forest and savannah areas have been converted into farmland, intensifying threats to African raptors. With the human population projected to double in the next 35 years, the need to extend Africa’s protected area network is now greater than ever.
Ogada agreed with the sentiment. “Africa is at a crossroads in saving its magnificent birds of prey. In many areas, we have watched these species nearly disappear. One of Africa’s most iconic raptors, the secretarybird, is approaching extinction. There’s no single threat imperilling these birds; it’s a combination of many human-caused ones; in other words, we see deaths by a thousand cuts.” Their study was particularly challenging in some areas where a lack of raptor encounters made analyses difficult.
While the reality seems bleak for large raptors, the future is not much brighter for species previously listed as ‘Least Concern’ on the Global Red List. The research highlights the risk of raptors such as Wahlberg’s eagle, African hawk eagle, long-crested eagle, African harrier-hawk, brown snake eagle, and dark chanting goshawk becoming globally threatened.
Dark chanting goshawk
The late Dr Jean Marc Thiollay’s long-term monitoring efforts in West Africa laid the study’s foundation, revealing the high human footprint in the region. Many raptors unique to West Africa, like the Beaudouin’s snake-eagle, are slowly vanishing from the landscape.
The study highlighted the urgent need for habitat conservation, aligning with the Convention on Biological Diversity’s COP15 goal of expanding conservation areas to 30% by 2030. It calls for restoring natural habitats in unprotected areas, improved legislation for species protection, and increased public involvement in raptor conservation efforts.
Despite the daunting results, the study also spurred positive action, leading to the creation of the African Raptor Leadership Grant, with The Peregrine Fund Africa as one of 13 partners. The grant supports emerging African scientists, boosting local conservation initiatives and knowledge of raptors across the continent.
“We awarded the first grant to Joan Banda, a Zimbabwean studying the illegal trade of owls in markets in Nigeria. She is an MSc student at the A.P. Leventis Ornithological Research Institute in Nigeria,” says Ogada. Her study looks at the implications of the belief-based use of owls on populations in two regions in Nigeria. She has been administering questionnaires in villages near Important Bird Areas to understand community perceptions and the socio-economic drivers of the trade in owls and to determine the effects of this trade on local owl populations. “We look forward to hearing more about her study and its implications.”
Joan Banda discusses owls with village elders in Nigeria
The findings serve as a wake-up call for the dire state of Africa’s raptors, emphasising the need for swift and comprehensive conservation measures to secure the future of these vital species and the ecosystems they support.
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Reawakening Kafue + Photographer of the Year
How’s this for impactful photography! Our 2024 Photographer of the Year is particularly exciting for teamAG – a significant change to the previous editions of our popular competition. Each of our three winners gets to sponsor a lion research collar – in lieu of our previous cash prize. The US$2,500 cost per collar will be paid for by Africa Geographic. Plus, our winners and their partners will join Lizz and me on a conservation safari in Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park. In addition to many game drive G&T moments, we will get to understand the issues facing wild, free-roaming lions and what is being done by NGOs and local people to protect them. More details here. The 2024 edition of our Photographer of the Year kicks off on 1 March.
I am currently in the gobsmackingly wondrous Odzala-Kokoua National Park in Congo-Brazzaville with teamAG videographer Brendan. Our mission is to find and film Western lowland gorillas, forest elephants, bongos, dwarf crocodiles and huge flocks of grey parrots and green pigeons. African Parks is in the process of upgrading an existing forest camp to fully catered status and training local people to manage the camp. You too can be here – soon. Check this out to whet your appetite.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Here’s a riddle: My life is short. For the majority of my life, I’m not yet alive, and my species ceases to be. What am I?
The answer is fascinating.
The Madagascan Labord’s chameleon spends the majority of its life as an egg. Once hatched, the chameleon matures rapidly, reaching adulthood within two months and breeding quickly thereafter. Shortly after laying eggs, the females die, and not long after that, the males join them. That means that, for about seven months of the year, there are no members of the species alive on the planet – and the entire population exists in eggs buried underground. Just as fascinating, is the recent footage scientists captured of a female Labord’s chameleon rapidly deteriorating after laying her eggs, and dying in a flurry of colour. You can check out this footage in our video of the week, below. The moral of her story? Life is short. Find your purpose, pursue it with vigour, live life in colour, and glow before you go.
While you await the launch of Photographer of the Year 2024, check out the exceptional gallery of images from our 2023 winner, Remya Warrier, below. And read about the adventures of Kingsley Holgate’s Afrika Odyssey expedition to Kafue National Park.
Discover the Big 5, cheetahs and wild dogs of Majete Wildlife Reserve and its conservation successes, before unwinding on Lake Malawi’s tranquil white sand beaches and enjoying the water activities on offer. Seamlessly transition between these stunning locations for the perfect combo safari.
Omo Valley is one of Ethiopia’s most fascinating melting pots of tribal diversity. This ten-day cultural experience will offer you the unique opportunity to learn about the ancient customs of Ethiopia’s indigenous tribes. Join us and experience the wonders of this extraordinary region and its fascinating people.
Photographer of the Year 2024
Dust off your cameras because Photographer of the Year 2024 opens on 1 March, and the prizes are what dreams are made of! Start searching your archives for images that encompass the celebration of Africa.
In addition to having a lion research collar sponsored in their name, winners will be awarded a conservation safari, including stays at Camelthorn Lodge and Bomani Tented Camp in Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe, and a trip on the Elephant Express rail car. Sponsored by AG and Imvelo Safari Lodges and proudly in association with the Southern African Conservation Trust and WILDCRU.
WATCH: In this remarkable and rare footage, a Labord’s chameleon from Kirindy Forest, western Madagascar, erupts in a rainbow of colour – “as if uttering her last words” – moments before death. All the members of this species die before the dry season arrives – and the species survives through the hatching of eggs that are buried underground. (03:17) Click here to watch
Many of you will know that funny old saying: ‘How do you eat an elephant?’ Answer: One bite at a time. Nowhere is that more accurate when weighing up the monumental work going into restoring Kafue National Park in the heart of Zambia – and it’s only just begun. Sheelagh Antrobus shares news from the road.
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
Journey to Kafue
In Mongu, we fuel the big Defender 130s, resupply the grub-boxes and head east. It was some time ago that we last travelled this road. We’re stunned by the explosion of people, potholes and extraction out of the miombo woodlands: battered old trucks loading hundreds of big plastic-and-twine bags from endless charcoal stations, the air thick with smoke from charcoal kilns and massive piles of indigenous wood stacked on the roadside awaiting collection. It’s an incredibly distressing scene. Zambia is known to have one of the highest deforestation rates in the world, caused by many issues, and this region is one of the worst affected.
Piles of indigenous wood stacked on the roadside near Mongu, Zambia
200km later, it’s a relief to cross an invisible line into Kafue National Park. Suddenly, the trees and grasslands reappear, and the air clears, and we’re reminded why these wildlife areas are so important and must be protected. As night falls, we reach the park’s Chunga HQ and, somewhat exhausted from pothole-dodging, set up a basecamp on the banks of the beautiful Kafue River.
Camping in one of Kafue National Park’s campsites
There to meet us are park manager Craig Reid and his wife Andrea. Such kindred spirits – theirs is an exciting story to tell: born and bred in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa, they started their conservation lives in Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park, then set their sights on broader horizons and joined African Parks, beginning at Liuwa Plain in 2007 (it was Craig who reintroduced the lions and ended Lady Liuwa’s lonely existence). “That was before the tarred road from Mongu to Kalabo existed,” laughs Andrea. “I will never forget the long riverboat journeys we had to make across the Barotse floodplain to get supplies from Mongu – not easy when you’ve got two small children in tow!”
In 2010, they moved to Bangweulu Wetlands, spending four years in that remote northwest corner of Zambia, before moving to Liwonde National Park in Malawi 2015, African Parks’ newest management project. As we’ll soon be visiting both on this Afrika Odyssey expedition, we’re fascinated by their anecdotes of life in these vastly different wild regions, leading them to their greatest challenge yet.
The following day, Craig leads us into the park’s newly built Ops Centre – a double-storey, tennis court-sized building that hums with energy and intelligent technology. In one corner stands a display of confiscated poaching paraphernalia: wire snares, pangas, bicycles, axes, saws and firearms. “It’s there to remind us of the challenges we face daily. But I never thought I’d see the day we’d be managing parks from computer screens,” he remarks wryly, pointing to a vast, wall-mounted monitor that’s manned 24/7 and uses the EarthRanger programme to track wildlife and human movements throughout the expanse of the park. “It’s a game-changer and one we can’t do without if we’re going to restore Kafue.”
Lions are commonly encountered in Kafue
The beast that is Kafue
Craig outlines the problems that have beset Kafue over the years and the staggering amount of work now facing his newly formed 425-strong staff team. Like the size of Kafue, it’s challenging to comprehend.
“Kafue is a beast of a park,” he begins. “Proclaimed in 1950, it is Zambia’s oldest national park. At 2.4 million hectares, it is 500,000 hectares bigger than South Africa’s Kruger National Park. Suppose you include the nine Game Management Areas bordering the park. In that case, that’s almost 7 million hectares – and this greater Kafue ecosystem makes up 25% of the world’s largest transboundary conservation area, the Kavango-Zambezi TFCA, which stretches between Zambia, Angola and Namibia.”
It is massive. We’d felt the extent of it in 2015, when we’d travelled the entire length of the Park from the old railway line, sheds and steam engines at Mulubezi in the south to the Busanga Plains in the north, as part of an expedition to find the geographic centre of Africa deep in the rainforests of the Congo.
But for decades, Kafue existed in quiet despair as lack of funding and effective management allowed poaching and deforestation to take their toll on both landscape and wildlife. “When I flew over it for the first time, I couldn’t believe the well-worn bicycle tracks crisscrossing the park like highways, bringing supplies to established poaching and logging camps and carrying out bushmeat, charcoal and felled timber. It was an industrial-scale industry of destruction, much of it linked to illegal syndicates that stretch far beyond Zambia’s borders,” Craig says quietly, gazing at the floor-to-ceiling map of this national park that’s the size of Wales.
Our expedition team is, for once, at a loss for words. After a long silence, Ross asks, “How do you begin to fix this – at this scale?” It’s like a light going on. Craig grins, and our education into the work to reawaken this extraordinary ‘beast’ unfolds.
While there is still much work to be done in Kafue, wildlife such as cheetah are still present in the park
An exceptional tourist destination
“Fortunately,” Craig tells us, “huge tracts of Kafue’s wilderness still exist and, whilst heavily diminished, numbers of wildlife remain, including elephant, lion, leopard, wild dog and cheetah, the highest diversity of antelope species in Africa and over 500 bird species. There’s plenty to build on, and we also need to ensure that the Kafue River catchment area is protected. It is Lusaka’s water supply and an important ecosystem for various fish and amphibious species. Kafue has the potential to become an exceptional tourism destination in the next five to ten years and provide employment and long-term benefits to thousands of local people.”
Packs of endangered wild dogs (painted wolves) revel in the open space afforded by Kafue’s plains
Much has already been done since 2021 when the Zambian government invited African Parks to help resurrect Kafue National Park: over 2,000km roads graded, bridges repaired, water and power restored, aircraft hangers built, park offices and staff quarters revamped, and the state-of-the-art law enforcement centre constructed. Hundreds of jobs have been created, the park’s rangers and law enforcement teams intensively retrained, and a community education programme established.
Thanks to the strong partnership between Zambia’s Department of National Parks and Wildlife and African Parks, poaching and deforestation are on the decline, wildlife monitoring is back in place, plans are afoot to bring in thousands of wildebeest, zebra and buffalo to restore their numbers and there’s a long-term goal to reintroduce black rhino. There’s still a monumental amount of work to do; even so, we’re struck by the resolve and confidence of everyone we meet that Kafue NP will, in time, be restored to its former glory.
We spend a few action-packed days with the park’s community teams and a cheerful bunch of Stellenbosch university students (friends of Craig and Andrea’s children) who get fully involved in a vibrant conservation education day at the Chungu Primary School. We participate in a malaria-prevention programme at the park’s clinic, and in providing eye tests and reading glasses for elderly community residents. More pages in the Scroll are filled with positive messages of hope for conservation. Peter Indala (Department of National Parks and Wildlife Area Warden) is given the honour of adding symbolic Kafue River water to the expedition’s calabash.
Kafue ranger Gracious Siabasimbi writes a message in the expedition ScrollPeter Indala adds Kafue River water to the expedition’s calabashThe Kafue management team outside the park’s Chunga headquarters
Our evening campfires are jolly affairs, shared with some colourful characters: bush pilots, field operations managers, scientists, staff from AP’s Zambia office and community workers. All confirm that Craig, with his vast experience and quiet, determined manner, is the right man to lead the reawakening of this beast – and everyone agrees it’s just in the nick of time.
Bidding farewell to the Kafue HQ team, we head south to Lake Itezhi Tezhi – elephant, hippo and herds of puku, zebra, and impala graze peacefully on the shoreline. At Konkomoya Lodge, we’re greeted like long-lost friends by Andrea Porro and Catarina, a colourful Italian couple who’ve heard about our wildlife odyssey and insist on treating us to a great food and hospitality night. Andrea fell in love with Kafue 17 years ago and decided to leave his life as a graphic artist and photographer in Italy to rebuild Konkomoya into a wood-and-canvas place of beauty. He handcrafted much of the furnishings himself, and the walls are filled with his spectacular photographs of Kafue’s wildlife.
Andrea tells us he’s an artist, not a scientist. “I can’t give you the actual increase in game numbers, but something has happened here in the short time since African Parks took over the management of Kafue. You can see it in the behaviour of the wildlife; they’re calmer and seem to know they’re safe now. Even the leopards seem more chilled and unafraid – look at this.” He shows us a video clip of a leopard walking casually into the lodge’s dining area one evening, jumping onto the coffee table and sniffing at the wooden sculpture of a leopard beautifully handcrafted from small pieces of mopane by Pam Carr, daughter of Zambia’s legendary conservationist Norman Carr, who was Kafue’s Park Warden in the 50s.
We’d love to stay longer, but the Zen of Travel is calling; it’s time to point the two expeditions Defenders north – the next stop is the Bangweulu Wetlands. Thanks to all involved, this expedition to link all 22 African Parks-managed conservation areas across the continent is turning into a fascinating journey of purpose.
Capturing the winning photo for Africa Geographic’s Photographer of the Year 2023 was no mean feat for Remya Warrier. Her photo of a rain-soaked lion shaking its head to a backlit halo of water droplets created an otherworldly effect. Remya met the challenges of rapid movement and early morning light with skill, and her post-production edits created a dramatic yet moody image worthy of our award. “It’s all about learning to dance in the rain,” said Remya.
Remya is a passionate wildlife photographer, naturalist and conservationist from Kerala, India. Her childhood love of wildlife has taken her to various biodiversity hotspots around the world. In 2021, Remya moved to Maasai Mara, Kenya, to pursue her passion for wildlife photography and conservation initiatives.
In this gallery, we share a few of Remya’s favourite images. You can see more of Remya’s work on Instagram here.
“I am truly honoured to be awarded the Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year 2023. Thanks a lot to Africa Geographic for this recognition. I’m happy to be part of this great initiative for conservation and raising awareness,” says Remya.
Below, be mesmerised by Remya’s unique pursuit of capturing wildlife.
Queen Kaboso on the lookout for prey. “The harsh light of the afternoon snuck through the foliage, creating complementary glowing hotspots within the frame.” Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. Nikon D850 | 400mm | F/6.3 | 1/640 sec | ISO 400Dust storm. Taken amidst the harsh droughts in Amboseli. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. Nikon D4 | 290mm | F/8 | 1/1000 sec | ISO 400Cheetah silhouette at sunrise. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. Nikon D850 | 340mm | F/11 | 1/3,200 sec | ISO 125“This was one of the first images I took in Mashatu during my visit with Africa Geographic for the Photographer of the Year winner’s trip. Mashatu always holds a special place in my heart.” Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana. Nikon Z6ii | 270mm | F/5.6 | 1/100sec | ISO 400Photographer of the Year 2023 winning image: Soaked after an afternoon shower. “The rains in Mara open doors for some very unique and magical frames.” Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. Nikon D850 | 340mm | F/6.3 | 1/3,200 sec | ISO 1,250Hyena silhouette. “I have no words to describe how dramatic Mara sunrise and sunsets can be.” Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. Nikon D850 | 350mm | F/8 | 1/8,000 sec | ISO 200Portrait of lion. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. Nikon D850 | 400mm | F/7.1 | 1/4000 sec | ISO 800Black panther – that rare jewel of Africa. “It was a highly rewarding experience watching the hunting ability of this black panther – especially with its extra gift of nocturnal camouflage.” Laikipia, Kenya. Nikon Z6ii | 160mm | F/5.6 | 1/250 sec | ISO 16,000Rhino – a frame from Solio Ranch Conservancy, Kenya. Nikon D4 | 135mm | F/7.1 | 1/800 sec | ISO 200“Upon arrival we could hear the hooting and screaming of chimpanzees. There was a conflict between two groups. It was truly an experience to see how this group intimidated the intruders.” Kibale National Park, Uganda. Nikon Z6ii | 85mm | F/5.6 | 1/250 sec | ISO 10,000A sunset silhouette from Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, Botswana. “The desert habitat facilitates extraordinary sunset opportunities, especially as animals visit the waterholes just before dusk.” Nikon Z6ii | 80mm | F/6.3 | 1/40 sec | ISO 5000
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Drum roll please…
I am SO PROUD to introduce UKURI – Safari camps for responsible travellers – our new venture that will make a difference to rural people living in Africa’s remote wilderness areas far from the usual tourism hotspots. Ukuri is a booking platform for safari camps that offer real benefits for conservation and communities.
Ukuri’s first accommodation partner is AFRICAN PARKS – who have appointed Ukuri as their booking platform for lodges & campsites managed by them. 100% of tourism revenue earned by African Parks goes to conservation and local communities. African Parks plans to expand the accommodation options across their 22 protected areas in Africa – so watch this space. And we will add further camps outside of African Parks once Ukuri finds its feet.
Why? We want to help Africa’s rural people who live amongst wildlife see the value of wilderness. They will be motivated to conserve wild spaces & creatures if they share in the economic benefits.
Dave Wilson, Head of Commercial Development – African Parks had this to say: “We are excited to partner with Africa Geographic to help improve the marketing and reservations of our camps in the protected areas we manage. With this partnership, African Parks can increase revenue into the ecosystems and communities where it is most urgently needed.”
IF YOU ARE A SAFARI TRAVELLER: Visit the Ukuri website to find amazing places and accommodation options and to book your stay. Please share with your friends.
IF YOU ARE AN AGENT OR TOUR OPERATOR: Include African Parks lodges in your packages by registering as an Ukuri supplier. You can manage your own bookings online, or the Ukuri team will do so for you. Please share with your networks.
Ukuri /oo-KOO-ree / • noun
Ukuri means ‘truth’ or ‘authentic’ in the language of Kinyarwanda (spoken across central and east Africa)
This package is the one chance to flatten three bucket-list items in one epic safari – in one country! From searching for the Big 5 in Akagera NP – one of Africa’s conservation success stories – to the forests of Nyungwe NP for chimpanzees, and Volcanoes NP for mountain gorillas. What more could you ask for? Aside from rare golden monkeys, the Kigali Genocide Memorial and more – which are also on offer during this safari.
WATCH: Ukuri offers safari camps for responsible travellers to Africa – that make a measureable difference to conservation and communities. Watch this short video showcasing what Ukuri is all about. (00:29) Click here to watch
Our journey to Liuwa Plain from Matusadona National Park follows the Zambezi Valley via ‘Mosi-oa-Tunya’ (the smoke that thunders). To resupply, we push on via the elephants of Chobe and into Katima Mulilo in Namibia’s Caprivi Strip, which is bordered by the Linyanti, Chobe, Cuando and Zambezi Rivers. Crossing into Zambia and dodging convoys of Copperbelt trucks making their way to Walvis Bay, there’s still that exciting sense of leaving the southern Africa orbit behind: we love the easy-going nature of the Zambian people and the anticipation of what lies ahead. The anticipation on our journey to Liuwa Plain is pulpable. Sheelagh Antrobus shares news from the road.
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
Singing across Sioma
We camp close to the base of the spectacular Sioma Ngonye Falls. Created by a basalt dyke that dams up the Zambezi, the falls form a broad crescent interrupted by rocky outcrops, creating a strikingly picturesque scene. Above Sioma Ngonye, stretching upstream towards Angola, is the vast Barotse floodplain and the river kingdom of the Lozi people. To get there in the old days was a great adventure of bad roads and ferry crossings, and you had to work at it. But now the old Senanga ferry that often broke down is no more, replaced by the new Sioma Bridge, which, if the wind is right, ‘sings’ as you cross it.
En-route to Liuwa Plain, the expedition team camped out near the base of the Sioma Ngonye Falls. Here, Kingsley catches a breather overlooking the swirling waters of the Zambezi
Barotseland is one of the most beautiful parts of the Zambezi and is well known for the Kuomboka Ceremony that has been taking place annually for over 300 years. That night, the wind blows cold; we huddle around the campfire as Ross knocks up his favourite chicken stew, and Kingsley, by the light of a headtorch, reads a note from an old expedition journal:
‘The Kuomboka is like something out of Cleopatra’s time on the Nile. When the annual flood waters arrive, the Barotse King… travels in his zebra-striped royal barge, the Nalikwanda, accompanied by 120 traditionally-dressed paddlers all rowing in perfect unison to the beat of the massive onboard royal drums and xylophones. Should a paddler, dressed in his finery of plumes and animal skins, miss a beat, he is unceremoniously tossed overboard amongst a flotilla of hundreds of dugout canoes and other boats, which escort the Royal Party to higher ground and the King’s palace at Limulunga, a short distance north of the bustling river port of Mongu.’
It’s no longer a long and challenging riverboat journey to cross the Barotse floodplains from Mongu; nowadays, there’s a raised 70km tarred road with a score of bridges that brings you to Kalabo – gateway to Liuwa Plain National Park, known for its spectacular gathering of blue wildebeest, the second largest wildebeest migration in Africa.
Liuwa Plain is known for its large gathering of blue wildebeest, and forms the site of the second largest wildebeest migration in Africa
Far from the madding crowd
It’s at Kalabo that the tarred road ends. Smiling, good-natured Felix Mayungo, Liuwa Plain’s community development manager, will escort us across the Luanginga River by ferry. “Please deflate your tyres; from now on, we will be in deep sand,” he says. So, to the hiss of escaping air, curious locals cluster around the route map printed on the bonnet of one of our Defender 130s for a quick ‘expedition briefing’ on this odyssey to link all 22 African Parks-managed areas in 12 countries across the continent. With clanking and grating, the ferry noses up to the bank and drops the two ramps.
Workshop mechanics in Liuwa Plain gather around to sign the expedition scroll
For the conservation-minded adventurer seeking to explore wild spaces far from the madding crowds, you should add Liuwa Plain National Park to your bucket list. Situated in western Zambia, these vast golden grasslands with 360-degree views, dotted with tree-islands, stretch between the Luanginga River to the west, the Luambimba River in the east, and of course, the Zambezi. With the arrival of the rains in December, the plains are transformed into a water wonderland of sparkling lagoons, vast herds of zebra, tsessebe, oribi, red lechwe, and, if you get your timing right, the second-largest migration of blue wildebeest in Africa.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Plan and book your African Parks safari to Liuwa Plain and other parks here.
Vast herds of zebra pepper the Liuwa Plain landscape
Across the Luanginga, the Defenders come into their own with a throaty growl, as in high-lift sand mode, we tackle the soft, deep, winding tracks across endless yellow grass plains. It’s incredibly beautiful and has a wonderful sense of wilderness, space and freedom. We’re entering a whole new world, extending for some 3,660km²: and what a transformation since we were last here, more than 20 years ago.
Navigating the soft sand tracks of Liuwa Plain in the expedition vehicles
The word Liuwa simply means ‘plain’. There’s a local legend that one Litunga (king) planted his walking stick on the plains, where it grew into a large Mutata tree, which can still be seen today. It is a magical paradise, especially when the wildebeest is massing on the plains and spring flowers carpet the white sand sea.
In 1890, the King of Barotseland appointed his people as custodians of this landscape. But, by the turn of this century, decades of unsustainable land use and poaching – especially during the 1975-2002 civil war in neighbouring Angola when soldiers poured into the park in pursuit of meat and money – caused a rapid decline in all species and reduced the lion population to just one lonely lioness.
With the arrival of the December rains, the plains are transformed into a water wonderland of sparkling lagoons
The Liuwa Plain legacy
In 2003, realising what was at stake, the Barotse Royal Establishment and Zambia’s Department of National Parks and Wildlife invited African Parks to help restore the legacy of Liuwa Plain, and with this came hope. Effective conservation law enforcement strategies were implemented to reduce bushmeat poaching, and sustainable land use and fish harvesting methods were introduced to the communities. Then, in 2008, a series of wildlife reintroductions were rolled out to restore species that once roamed the plains in abundance. First came lions, eland and buffalo to provide a healthy prey base for the growing predator populations. Today, the park is home to 47,000 wildebeest and thousands more antelope, large hyena clans, a thriving cheetah population, wild dogs and lions, and is a sanctuary for over 300 bird species.
Liuwa Plain hosts a thriving cheetah population
One expedition Defender behind the other, we follow meandering, deep sand tracks across the pancake-flat terrain. The scale is bewildering; the cloudless sky looms above like a massive dome as the horizon disappears over the Earth’s curvature. The sense of space, silence and freedom is blissful. We stop at the much-revered King’s Pool, where, by tradition, a percentage of fish caught here by the Liuwa Plain communities is given in tribute to the King of Barotseland. Catfish bubble and burp, saddlebill storks and wattled cranes take to the sky, African jacana scuttles across the water lilies, and a secretary bird stalks off into the distance.
Community members fishing in the national park More than 10,000 Lozi people live within the park’s boundaries.
Felix slips off his shoes and wades in to add a splash of symbolic water to the expedition’s calabash – a ceremony taking place at 22 special locations on this journey to link all African Parks-managed areas across the continent. Heading back to camp as the sun disappears in a fiery red ball, we’re thrilled to see the wild dog pack setting out on a hunt.
Felix Mayungo, Liuwa Plain’s community development manager, gathers water from the King’s Poll in the expedition calabash
“One of the beauties and unique qualities of Liuwa is the coexistence of people and wildlife,” Hickey Kalolekesha, the park’s Field Operations Manager, tells us. “All the chiefdoms have radio comms with us and keep us informed of wildlife movements and suspicious individuals entering the area. And the people say: ‘These are OUR wildebeest, OUR Lion.’…there’s an entrenched sense of ownership, and we all work together – community, government, traditional leaders – to protect this special place. The Liuwa landscape gets under your skin: the openness, the unusual sightings, the tranquillity and the happy people here – you can’t fake the Liuwa Smile,” he says with a big grin of his own.
The Liuwa Plain team
The park is now the largest employer in the region and provides critical education and health benefits to hundreds of community members. And there’s excellent work being done to help generate income from natural resources: beekeeping, honey processing, dried mango production and a busy fish-drying facility that even exports to the Congo. Over 200 children have received scholarships; more than 4,000 local farmers have benefitted from skills training. Because of the reintroduction of wild dogs, the park has also initiated a rabies-vaccination programme, and thousands of community dogs and cats are now safe from this deadly disease.
What’s also great for the overland adventurer are the opportunities to pitch your tent and throw out your bedroll at several community-owned wild campsites dotted across the plains, which generate tourism income for the Liuwa people.
The expedition team conduct an eye test on a local man, to provide him with a new pair of glasses – part of the humanitarian support that the team is providing along their route
In the shade of a 100-year-old mango tree, to the vibrant sounds of kids practising their poetry, singing and dancing for the annual Liuwa Drama Festival in which every community school competes (this year’s theme is ‘Against Wildfires’), we meet Area Chief Mundandwe. “Conservation isn’t new to us – it’s been part of our way of life for time immemorial,” the chief begins before telling us the poignant story of Lady Liuwa – the last lioness who’d lost her pride to hunters and poaching. “She was such a friendly lioness but so lonely that she would seek out human company. One of her favourite places was the thicket of trees where Mambeti, the daughter of a Lozi chief, was buried near the King’s Pool. There used to be many lions here: I remember as a child not being able to go to school sometimes because they were close by. So we, the community, were delighted when African Parks suggested reintroducing them. Lady Liuwa finally had a family again, and though she couldn’t breed, she helped raise a new generation of Liuwa Plain lions. She died of old age in 2017, and in our culture, we believe she was the spirit of Mambeti.”
Kingsley and Sheelagh with Chief Mundandawe
“My hope is that African Parks remains here for a very long time and there’s lots of goodwill to also incorporate the Game Management Area to the north-west of Liuwa, to give the wildebeest full protection on their migration,” says Chief Mundandwe before bidding us farewell. In the expedition’s Scroll, he writes: ‘All creatures were created for a purpose, and we are all inter-connected. Conservation is doing God’s work; it takes sacrifice but it’s our job to protect them.’
We loved our time at Liuwa: busy days working with the smiling communities, the generosity of spirit of the committed African Parks teams and the sense of endless space and solitude. Then comes a surprise gift: our final night is hosted by eclectic King Lewanika Lodge, named after the Litunga: hot showers, fluffy towels, warm blankets, and food not cooked over a smoky campfire! What a treat – made even more memorable as Godfrey and Elias, the lodge’s charismatic guides, at last light locate 10 of the park’s 17 lions engaging in a beautiful reunion of head-rubbing, tail-waving, purring delight. That night, the staff dressed in traditional costumes gave us a cultural enactment of music and dance from the 300-year-old Kuomboka ceremony.
‘What makes Liuwa so special is the equal respect given to the communities and wildlife alike,’ writes researcher Sarah Weiner in the expedition’s Scroll. ‘We are all one and the same, coexisting in this beautiful landscape. There is magic in the silence and the whispering wind; magic in the breathtaking sunrises that greet us in the mornings and the sunsets that put us to sleep each night.’
This Afrika Odyssey journey is about finding stories of hope for Africa’s wildlife and wild spaces. Our time at Liuwa Plain – so different, so full of conservation, community and culture – is no exception.
Back across the Luanginga ferry, we turn the Defenders towards the expedition’s next destination. It’s said to be the second largest park in the world, about the size of Wales, and it’s had a complicated past; I will keep you posted.
There are four extant species of the family Hyaenidae: aardwolf (Proteles cristata), brown hyena (Parahyaena brunnea), spotted hyena (Crocuta crocuta) and striped hyena (Hyaena hyaena). A recent review of scientific literature on Hyeanidae (analysing 907 papers) reveals the trends and gaps in the research on hyenas and other Hyaenidae species.
My first memory of a hyena comes from when I was six years old. My family lived in a research camp in the Okavango Delta, while my father was studying baboons. I woke up one night to the clamour of hyenas cackling and my mother shouting. Four spotted hyenas had barged through the reed door of the hut to see if they could get their jaws on my father’s uneaten supper (he was out watching baboons that night). My mom yelled at them and banged pots with a big spoon, putting them off their mission, so my first human-hyena conflict ended on a good note. We rescued most of the supper, and the hyenas fled from my spoon-wielding mother. However, hyenas generally get a bad rap, even though not all human-hyena interactions are negative.
When researchers recently set out to review scientific literature on Hyeanidae, they found a number of gaps in the research around various species, including in studies on the outcomes of human-Hyaenidae interactions.
A striped hyena photographed in Ol Pejeta Conservancy
Hyena in the eyes of the public
It is worth remembering that Hyaenidae species are important to ecosystems and are a big drawcard for tourists embarking on an African safari. They are also biodiversity indicators, but there are also negative connotations associated with hyenas. The three bone-cracking Hyaenidae species (brown, spotted and striped hyena) may prey on threatened species; and they sometimes prey on livestock. Hyenas have occasionally been known to attack humans or scavenge human remains. They are also somewhat difficult to study, being nocturnal, wide-ranging and long-lived. But Hyaenidae contribute to the ecosystem in numerous ways, including through disease regulation. The literature review highlights an imbalance in reporting on the positive effects of hyenas. A quarter of all literature on Hyaenidae is focused on human-hyena interactions, and the majority of this reports on conflicts and livestock predation events. In contrast, very few of these studies reported on the human impacts on Hyaenidae, such as infrastructure impacts or snare and poisoning events.
The studies conducted on Hyaenidae since 1900 have not been balanced concerning species, place or topic. For example, there were only 44 field studies on aardwolves and 519 on spotted hyenas. Only 66% of the 67 Hyaenidae-range states have produced at least one hyena publication, and most of the studies have been done in South Africa, Kenya and Tanzania. Topics have changed from focusing on basic biology to distribution and range, human–hyena interactions and anthropogenic impacts. Most of the studies (60%) were within (or at least partially conducted within) a protected area. Yet only 2.6%, 0.2%, 3.4% and 1.2% of the ranges for aardwolves, brown hyenas, spotted hyenas and striped hyenas, respectively, are comprised of protected areas!
Only 2.6% of aardwolf range is found in protected areas
The primary threats to Hyaenidae are habitat loss and fragmentation, declining prey populations and conflict with humans. The first two exacerbate the third, as with increased habitat loss and prey reductions, Hyaenidae are forced into closer contact with humans, and conflicts increase. Given the increasing pressures on hyenas and wild areas under burgeoning human populations and climate change impacts, we must shift our research focus to human-Hyaenidae interactions and conflict management. There were no studies, for example, on aardwolf disease transmission, human infrastructure navigation, immigration, and dispersal. Yet the impact of roads and human development on Hyaenidae is pervasive.
The spotted hyena has the lion’s share of the publications when looking at Hyaenidae literature
It is food for thought: how do academics decide to prioritise research? Are research topics ad hoc or based on the most apparent species? The spotted hyena has the lion’s share of the publications, and one might consider this to be because it is the ‘extrovert’ of the hyenas, adaptable, opportunistic, and an apex predator that comes into conflict with humans more so than the brown and striped hyena, which also consume livestock. (The termite-snacking aardwolf sometimes comes under fire from humans, too, because of mistaken identity.) We need to consider whether scientific research is being conducted opportunistically. From the results of this study, it appears that horizon scanning is an essential element for prioritising research topics – what are the present and future threats, and what do we need to know to mitigate these?
The authors suggest that significant conservation concerns are being overlooked, such as whether the “Least concern” IUCN classification of the aardwolf is accurate given the scarcity of data on distribution and population. We don’t even know whether the genetically differentiated north-eastern aardwolf population might, in fact, be a different species from the southern population.
For the common good
The authors recommend that going forward, research should be directed towards understanding what it takes for Hyaenidae to “survive, thrive and co-exist with humans”. They emphasise the importance of community engagement in effective management and conservation, which few Hyaenidae studies have incorporated. Valuing meaningful community engagement in wildlife research is critical for anticipating and mitigating the challenges of human-wildlife interactions.
Even though the hyenas are considered “common”, this “common-ness” should be maintained, given that Hyaenidae have a unique ecological role and are indicators of the bigger picture of the biodiversity of our socio-ecological landscapes.
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How elephants name each other + Mgahinga’s gorillas
I am one of those softies who rescue insects floating in the pool – even tiny ones. Silence the sniggers, please; there’s more. Since I built a small wooden “jetty” tethered in one corner of the pool, I have not had to fish out dead lizards or mice. I learned that trick from farmers who place tethered logs in their cement dams to prevent animals and birds from drowning. Have I changed the world by doing these small things? No, but I feel good about this part of my voyage through life. Kind deeds significantly benefit your well-being and health – not that this is why we do them (right?).
Africa Geographic was born of the same energy and context. I was in the finance industry and felt a strong urge to do something more meaningful. This has been one helluva journey – since 1991. We try to make a difference in the way we know how – articles that reflect the real Africa and safaris that celebrate this remarkable place. We have made mistakes and learnt lessons – such is life. And we developed our manifesto along the way – our ikigai about life as a social impact brand. The journey continues and teamAG will keep doing what we do. Thanks for your support and companionship.
To all who rescue insects from your pool – you have my profound respect!
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
We are slowly learning HOW giraffes have evolved to cope with their great height. Giraffes have specific genes that ensure fewer adverse effects from the gravity-defying high blood pressure needed for pumping blood through their large bodies, eyesight and sleep habits that have evolved to allow for hyper vigilance, and genes that maintain robust bones.
But did you know that ancient relatives of the giraffe evolved long necks to help them fight better – and not simply to reach the scrumptious leaves on the tippy tops of vachellia trees as previously thought? Victors of male neck fighting, who were more likely to mate, passed their long-neck genes onto offspring – a theory that has been labelled the “necks for sex” hypothesis.
This week, we’re bringing you a comprehensive guide to Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, and a fascinating study that suggests elephants give one another specific names. See our stories below.
This brief safari delivers two of Africa’s most popular safari meccas: Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe – an iconic African destination, and Chobe – Botswana’s most popular national park. Enjoy an activity every day, from river cruises to game drives, horse riding and, for the more adventurous, bungee jumping and river rafting – and so much more! You tell us how many in your party and dates that suit you, and our safari experts will craft your dream safari.
How are men and women living around Hwange National Park helping to prevent human-wildlife conflict? The Long Shields Guardian Programme employs and trains local community members to protect villages from lions, safeguard cattle, and aid in wildlife management. GPS collars fitted on lions provide an early-warning system to the guardians, who are able to act quickly to prevent incidents of conflict. Guardians patrol daily, alerting villagers through a WhatsApp group when lions approach, and deterring the lions from community lands. This innovative ‘Mobile Boma’ concept safeguards livestock, enhances food security, and reduces lion killings. The programme’s expansion has led to an increase in crop yields, a reduction in predation, and fewer retaliatory lion deaths. Find out more about the programme and donate to support peaceful human-lion coexistence
WATCH: Spend a few minutes with the elegant beach-loving forest elephants of Luango National Park, Gabon – and see how these elephants warn off unwanted attention with displays of strength. (02:19) Click here to watch
In a dense corner of Africa in a land dotted by the dramatic, forested figures of ancient volcanoes, a trio of countries protect just over half of the world’s remaining mountain gorillas. Destinations like Virunga and Volcanoes National Parks have become synonymous with mountain gorilla trekking and conservation, but there is a third national park, so often forgotten, that forms the final corner of the triangle. Uganda’s Mgahinga Gorilla National Park is a small park that packs an astonishing biodiversity punch and offers some of Africa’s most exclusive gorilla trekking.
*Cover image: Mark, the 40-year-old leader of the Nyakagezi gorilla family, enjoys some alone time in the dense bamboo forest of Mgahinga. For more images from Michael Stavrakakis, check out @pics.stavtook on Instagram.
Mgahinga Gorilla National Park
At just 34 km2 (3,400 hectares), Mgahinga Gorilla National Park is Uganda’s smallest national park, tucked away in the country’s southwestern corner. With Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park to the north and Virunga National Park in the Democratic Republic of Congo to the west, Mgahinga completes the trifecta of parks protecting the Greater Virunga Ecosystem. Shaped by ancient (and relatively modern) volcanic forces, this primaeval landscape is known for its phenomenal scenic beauty and extraordinary biodiversity. It also protects just over half of the world’s remaining mountain gorillas.
A mountain gorilla enjoys the morning sun on the slopes
The topography of the region is dominated by the looming forms of the eight Virunga volcanoes, of which three extend into Mgahinga Gorilla National Park: Muhavura (4,127 m), Gahinga (3,474 m), and Sabinyo (3,645 m). Unlike the two active volcanoes in neighbouring DRC, these peaks no longer explode at unpredictable intervals. Instead, their forested slopes support a plethora of life, from the celebrated mountain gorillas and coiffured golden monkeys to slinking leopards and an array of endemic birdlife.
Want to plan your African safari to meet the gorillas and golden monkeys of Mgahinga? We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.
The dramatic changes in altitude also ensure that despite Mgahinga’s relatively small size, the park is a mosaic of diverse habitats. Steaming swamps give way to the verdant green of bamboo forests, which then melt into the dense Albertine Rift montane habitat at higher altitudes. Incongruously, at such tropical latitudes, the peaks of the iconic volcanoes are sparsely covered with alpine zones and moorland.
A baby gorilla samples the forest fare while dangling from a vine. Check out more images from @hillary_shots here
Precious primates – silverbacks and golden monkeys
Regarding the Ugandan gorilla trekking experience, Mgahinga has traditionally been overshadowed by Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, which lies some 50km to the north and is home to the country’s only other population of mountain gorillas. This is partly because Mgahinga’s habituated gorilla family – the Nyakagezi family – have occasionally been known to cross the park’s boundary into Rwanda. However, in recent years, they have been all but resident on the Ugandan side of the ecosystem, and encounters are increasingly reliable.
Mother and infant gorilla nap peacefully while surrounded by a watchful band
Not for nothing is gorilla trekking considered a safari bucket list essential. Though the time spent with gorillas is strictly limited to prevent over-exposure, the impact of such an encounter makes an indelible impression on the human soul. Though the hike through the forest can be physically demanding, the reward at the end is a goosebump-inducing meeting with our sentient relatives.
Naturally, the gorillas are the stars of a visit to Mgahinga, but they have found stiff competition in their bright-eyed smaller cousins, the golden monkeys. These unique endangered animals are restricted to the highland forests of Central Africa and are found only in a handful of national parks, of which Mgahinga is one. They are named for their mottled gold facial mask and are usually found snacking on bamboo stalks. With the success of well-established gorilla trekking as a conservation model, park authorities have similarly habituated troops of these primates so that they can be observed without affecting their day-to-day behaviours. Visitors to Mgahinga can opt for the standard trek or spend several hours with the habituation team.
A golden monkey stands to attention
Kingdom Animalia
The rich volcanic soils and moist tropical climate have ensured that the Greater Virunga Ecosystem is a hotbed for floral and faunal diversity. Moreover, scientists studying the region believe that much of the eastern Congo basin was an ice age refugia, which escaped the worst of the glacial conditions that once blanketed the earth. Consequently, endemism levels are high, particularly when it comes to the feathered residents of the forest. Challenging though forest birding may be, Mgahinga is home to an impressive list of bird species, including several Albertine Rift Valley endemics and many more specials of the Afrotropical mountain habitat.
A juvenile bronze sunbird silhouetted by dim light
A hike along forest paths (perhaps serenaded by the melodious Kivu ground thrush) will reveal the dramatic flashes of African pittas and Rwenzori turacos. At the same time, a more strenuous route to the lobelias at the top of the volcanic peaks may be rewarded by the sight of scarlet-tufted sunbirds. True to its name, the Grauer’s swamp warbler can be heard singing its little heart out in the reeds of the Kabiranyuma and Kazibakye swamps in competition with the vocal handsome francolin on the peripheries. Further into the forest, sunbirds abound, with regal, blue-headed, and Rwenzori double-collared sunbirds all contributing to the kaleidoscope of colour. The company of one of Uganda’s expert bird guides will unlock the park’s full birding potential, and eager aviphiles will find themselves dashing from dusky crimsonwings to Rwenzori batises and then on to the search for a montane nightjar.
For those who can tear their eyes away from the primate and avian extravaganza, the trails are decorated in butterflies of every shape and colour. Sharp-eyed visitors (or, more likely, the experienced guide) may even be lucky enough to spot one of the park’s rare Jackson’s chameleons – a three-horned creature that looks for all the world as though it sprang from the time of the dinosaurs. Elephants, leopards, giant forest hogs and bushpigs are all present in the forest but are shy and seldom encountered.
Heading into Sabinyo Gorge in search of rare birds
Meandering in Mgahinga
With such abundant natural marvels, it isn’t difficult to understand why hiking is such a popular activity in Mgahinga. The well-kept trails range from short excursions and nature walks to full-day adventures up one of the three volcanic peaks to take in the panoramic views over Uganda, Rwanda and the DRC. The hike through Sabinyo Gorge is particularly favoured by birders but enchanting for visitors looking to explore the fantastical scenery and vegetation on display.
Another popular excursion is a trip to the Garama Cave, which extends some 342 metres beneath a plateau and is of sacred significance to the local Batwa people. In the gloom of the cave, conflict councils were held to discuss the defence of their lands, and the relics of their culture and religion can be found throughout the chambers. The Batwa people were evicted from the Mgahinga region when it was gazetted as a national park, but some remain on the park’s fringes. Cultural tours allow visitors to learn more about their way of life and the challenges of adapting to the loss of their ancestral lands.
Visitors can experience the culture of the Batwa while visiting Mgahinga, or hike up the volcanoes in the park
Explore & stay
Mgahinga Gorilla National Park experiences two rainy seasons: one from February to May and a second from September to December. However, rain is possible at any time of year, and visitors should always be well-prepared to waterproof valuables. Comfortable clothes with long sleeves and layers and a sturdy pair of boots are essential to making the most of the Mgahinga experience.
A luxury lodge near the park’s gate offers the only tourist accommodation available within Mgahinga itself, but there are several budget and mid-range camps on lodges along the park’s outskirts. Those wishing to travel slightly further afield could also explore options on the banks of nearby Lake Mutanda or Lake Bunyonyi, both astonishingly beautiful, framed by lush hills and dotted with tiny islands.
The Virunga mountains peak out from behind Lake Mutanda and Lake Mulehe
Final thoughts
While Mgahinga may be small compared to its neighbours, the national park is a vital cornerstone of the Greater Virunga Ecosystem, one of Africa’s most mysterious and untamed wildernesses.
Do elephant rumblings contain names? New research may have the answer
How do you call an elephant? By its name. This might appear to be the start of a bad joke, but the fact that elephants might have individual names for each other is a first in the animal kingdom. Do elephant rumblings contain names? New research has shown that it is possible that elephants have individual names, and they get one another’s attention by using these names.
Elephant name-calling
The nearest similar behaviour in animals has been observed in dolphins mimicking the particular calls of an individual whose attention they want to attract. Dolphins have their own unique set of squeaks and whistles, which self-identifies them to the group, but what is different about Bottlenose dolphins (Tursiops truncatus) is that when a dolphin wants to communicate with another dolphin, it mimics or copies that individual’s unique call signature.
Despite this being a fairly unique behaviour amongst wild animals, it is still cognitively simple to communicate to an individual by imitating that individual’s signature call. One step further is what humans do – attaching a non-mimicking, essentially arbitrary vocal label (aka “name”) to an individual. (My name, “Christy”, does not reference the sounds I make). This type of vocal recognition requires a new level of cognitive processing to connect a general sound “label” to one individual. It requires verbal learning (as individuals are not born knowing the names of their peers), memory, and assigning a symbolic meaning to individuals.
How to communicate with an elephant
A recent study (which is yet to be reviewed) included some intriguing experiments to find out more about how elephants communicate with each other.
Firstly, we know that elephants are great communicators – they can mimic sounds and have a wide variety of low-frequency rumblings. Many travellers will have experienced these rumblings while on an African safari. For example, they have a “Contact Rumble” when the caller is far away, is visually separated from the herd, and wants to get in touch again. They also have a “Greeting Rumble”, for when they haven’t seen each other for ages and they meet up again.
Elephants communicate using various techniques, including rumbling
Researchers for this study, published on bioRxiv, recorded and analysed the calls and rumblings of elephant groups from the greater Samburu ecosystem in northern Kenya and the Amboseli National Park in southern Kenya. They observed the elephants’ interactions, noting calls and when a response was initiated by a call (through vocalising or approaching a caller). They then analysed the calls to see if vocal labels were uniquely associated with an individual and if different callers used the same vocal label (name) when addressing that individual.
The results showed receivers of calls could be correctly identified from the call structure of other elephants and that there was a commonly used acoustic signal – like a label or name – in the calls to that individual. There were, however, varying sounds and rumblings in these calls, suggesting multiple messages encoded in these rumblings. The scientists suggest that results may be blurred by the fact that rumblings are not as simple as, “Hey you, Ellie, get over here!” but probably contain more information, such as in, “Hey Ellie, you want to join us? We’re thirsty, and we’re off to the waterhole while Mom isn’t looking.”
The fascinating result, however, occurred when the researchers played back recorded calls of specific herds back to these same herds in the field. They tested these vocal labels (names) in the field and compared the reactions of 17 wild elephants to the playback of calls. When the elephant heard its name in a call, it approached the recorder more quickly and vocalised more quickly than to calls without its name.
Final thoughts
So, it’s not quite a cut-and-dried case of elephants definitively having names, but there is some evidence to support the vocal identification of individuals. Why would elephants want to call each other? Elephants are social creatures, and their groups tend to split and re-connect frequently. As humans tend to respond positively when their name is used in an instruction, so too might elephants.
The hybrid elephants of Kibale: Read about a study from Kibale that has laid the groundwork to distinguish between forest/savannah elephant hybrids and different elephant species.
Putting elephants on the map – exploring connectivity in southern Africa: Read about how elephants move across southern Africa through protected areas and beyond
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Mashatu in colour + 90 hunted leopards?
The leopard mating experience is far from peaceful – as demonstrated in Kevin Dooley’s pic above. Did you know that leopards on honeymoon may mate as much as 256 times in four days? But, even with this radical number, these honeymoons are not always successful in producing offspring. One study found that only 28% of adult female leopards in the Kruger National Park gave birth per year. Little comprehensive research has taken place on the mating habits of leopards, as they are elusive and difficult to study.
This also means obtaining a reliable population count of leopards is notoriously challenging, if not impossible. Which is why we recently asked Botswana’s Department of Wildlife and National Parks how they calculated the trophy hunting quota of 90 leopards for 2024. We are still waiting for a response and will keep you posted.
This leopard-mating pic, taken in Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana, was the runner-up in our 2023 Photographer of the Year. teamAG is busy warming up for our 2024 competition – coming soon – and we can’t wait to share the details with you in a few days!
The winners from our 2023 competition headed to Mashatu recently and found this area of the Tuli Block to be an extremely rewarding photography destination. Check out some of their pics in the gallery below.
Estimating population sizes of spotted hyenas is also a tricky process. But a new study from Tanzania has produced the first population density estimates of this kind for spotted hyena in Tanzania – check out our second story.
Dreaming of visiting South Africa? Enjoy this iconic 12-day bush & beach safari, showcasing the best that South Africa has to offer. Be prepared to be swept off your feet with wall-to-wall wildlife action – with exceptional Greater Kruger Big 5 game viewing. This safari also includes a full-day road trip taking in the stunning scenery and cultural delights of the Lowveld. And then, head on to vibey, sophisticated Cape Town & the nearby winelands.
Lynn Killam and friends headed on a mobile safari to Botswana with us. Lynn says:
“The wildlife was fascinating. We loved the staff in camp, and were really happy to have visited. We loved camping and the outdoor areas. The mokoro was really great and we enjoyed the boat on the Chobe River. Our guide Paul was a delight. He was informative, helpful and funny, and told us the backstory on many of the animals along the way. I learned a lot from him, and we enjoyed his company very much. And he has the patience of Job!
But the absolute highlight was the animals. We watched wild dogs after a kill and saw them following a herd of wildebeest. We saw so many lions and listened to Paul tell us what he knew about each pride. The elephants were magnificent and the birds were fantastic. The wildlife – from the insects to the mega-mammals – were indescribably beautiful. Also – the baobabs! The experience was superb.”
WATCH: Most children living near South Africa’s Kruger National Park have never seen an elephant or lion. In many of these communities, children fall asleep to the sounds of lions roaring, but don’t get to see the animals for themselves. But the Future Rangers Program is working to change this reality – instilling a passion for wildlife conservation in future generations. (03:55) Click here to watch
My favourite moment in Botswana’s Mashatu Game Reserve was spending time with two magnificent male lions lurking on a rocky ridge high above the arid landscape below. They were new to the area and keeping a low profile – not keen to let the dominant pride males know of their presence. Our tracker, Goms, had somehow spotted the mohawk of one of the lions as we trundled along a bush track far below. These huge muscular specimens were about three years old – dispersed from their natal pride to seek their own territory and breeding rights. They were feral yet noble, and something about that steely look in their eyes told me that the new kings had arrived.
We also spotted six leopards in the first two days, a cheetah mom and her adolescent cubs on a kill, hyenas and many lions. We marvelled at huge blue-grey eland bulls going clickety-clack and even larger elephants as the herds sought water in this, the late dry season of September 2023. And we savoured rusks and early morning coffee under riverine canopies of Mashatu, sycamore fig, ana, boerbean and leadwood trees as Meyers parrots screeched hysterically overhead. We also enjoyed the most spectacular underground photographic hide sessions where the only way to rest the eyes was to gaze heavenward (scroll down for more about that). Safari heaven.
This was Tuli Block – southern Botswana – at its best. Lizz and I spent five glorious days here with our 2023 Photographer of the Year winners and their partners.
Keen to head onto your own trip to this epic safari destination? Check out our safaris to Tuli Block here. We have ready-made safaris to choose from or ask us to build one just for you.
During our five days at Mashatu, we spent afternoon and morning sessions at the Mashatu Photo Hide. I attended as a non-photographer – armed with a mobile phone only. Both sessions were spectacular, but the morning session produced the most prolific wildlife encounters. The ground-level photos above were taken during these sessions, giving you an idea of the intimacy of the encounters. For an even better idea of what to expect, watch this excellent video by one of our crew – professional photographer Andrew Macdonald.
We sat in awe as squadrons of wildlife arrived, drank and left – vast herds of eland, giraffe, kudu, impala, zebra and wildebeest. We also enjoyed ogling green pigeons with their bright yellow socks, held our collective breaths as a pearl-spotted owlet worked the flocks of lark-like buntings and marvelled at the restless energy as wave after wave of queleas clambered over each other like a plague of mice. Usually, an alarm snort would scatter the crowds, and the resultant temporary silence seemed eternal. Then, it would start all over again as thirsty animals made their approach, gathering confidence as others joined. The elephants would then arrive to scatter the crowds and dominate the waterhole until they, too, had slaked their thirst and gone their way.
After hours of intense action, with full hard drives and aching eyes, we left to recharge our batteries with lunch or sundowners and canape nibbles. What an experience!
Capturing the action at Mashatu Photo Hide
Our lodgings
Enjoying the view from Mashatu Tent Camp
We stayed at two Mashatu lodges during our stay. Both were comfortable and offered service with a smile and superb food.
Mashatu Lodge offers 14 suites with private deck, air-conditioning, a double bed and extra-large single bed, a seating area that includes a single day bed, an en-suite bathroom with bath and shower facilities and a separate W.C. The guest common area features a day lounge, large swimming pool, the Discovery Room (a museum of all things Mashatu, past and present), dining area, Gin Trap bar and fully stocked curio shop with African crafts, clothing and jewellery. There is Wifi in the guest common area.
Mashatu Tent Camp offers eight tents tucked under the branches of shady trees, accessible via meandering pathways. Each elevated tent has private outdoor ensuite facilities, including a toilet and shower. The guest common area includes a lounge, dining and bar area plus an open-air thatched gazebo and boma (enclosure) overlooking the floodlit, well-populated waterhole (which has a small underground photo hide). The camp’s plunge pool invites guests to cool off and escape the relentless heat typical of the summer months. Wifi is available in the guest common area.
Resources
Watch Andrew Macdonald’s video on why wildlife photography hides on safari are a must-do – filmed while on our Photographer of the Year winners’ safari in Mashatu.
How do you count spotted hyena? For many years, conservationists have struggled to find ways to estimate the population size of animals that are active at night and difficult to identify individually. To get an accurate estimate of the number of hyenas in a reserve, care must be taken not to count the same animal twice. In a new study, a team of researchers used camera trap surveys to determine hyenas’ spatial density across a Tanzanian landscape – providing the first population density estimates of this kind for spotted hyena in Tanzania.
Thriving or diving?
Hyenas have earned a bad reputation from movies like The Lion King, where they are portrayed as the drooling, ‘bad guys’ of the savannah. They have been considered relatively unaffected by human presence and are classified as “Least Concern” by CITES. But the species has lost 24% of its range in the last 40 years and is subject to increased threats from snaring, loss of habitat and a reduced prey base. And with limitations on counting hyena in the past, it is difficult to know if the species is thriving or diving. Knowing how many hyenas there are in a landscape allows conservationists to assess how well a conservation intervention works – if the numbers are low, then something is amiss.
Despite this, there have been relatively few studies on hyenas, at least when compared to lions. Although possibly a more sought-after predator by many safari-goers, the lion is not more important than the hyena. Hyenas play an essential role as a predator and scavenger in the ecosystem. The recent study points out that only three “spatially explicit capture-recapture” (SECR) studies of hyena have been done in East Africa, and none in Tanzania. The “spatially explicit” part is essential: knowing the numbers of hyenas associated with specific habitats or regions gives us much information on what could be driving the numbers (e.g., an area with optimal prey habitat might have a higher density of hyena). The “capture-recapture” is crucial because it allows the researchers to ensure they aren’t double-counting individuals. Usually, this would require “marking” an animal with a ring or a tag, which puts animals under unnecessary stress. To get around this, instead of using tags to identify individuals (to avoid counting the same animal twice), the researchers used the hyenas’ spots.
Researchers used hyena spot patterns to identify specific individuals
Spot the difference
The study used camera traps in four surveys across an area recognised as a Key Landscape for Conservation – the Ruaha-Rungwa ecosystem in southern Tanzania. This 45,000 km2 landscape consists of different habitat and land-management types. The researchers used camera trap photos to guide the individual identification of spotted hyena, using the unique spot patterns of the hyenas’ fur to work out who was who in the hyena world. This allowed them to use SECR modelling to estimate spotted-hyena population density at the four survey sites.
Where do hyena roam?
The four camera trap surveys were located in (a) the core area of Ruaha National Park, which is highly protected, productive and is used primarily for tourism; (b) an area of primarily miombo woodland in Ruaha (c) to the north in Rungwa Game Reserve, which is primarily miombo woodland used for trophy hunting activities, and (d) to the east of Ruaha in the community-managed Mbomipa and Waga Wildlife Management Area (WMA), which is similar in productivity to Ruaha but is adjacent to village lands. The Rungwa Game Reserve and Wildlife Management Areas buffer Ruaha.
Notably, there were almost twice as many hyena – 10.8 – recorded per 100km2 in the protected and productive Ruaha National Park, compared to 5.82 in the game reserve and 5.11 in the Wildlife Management Area. Interestingly, a higher density of hyena was associated with a higher density of lions, which raises questions about the role of interspecific competition between lion and hyena. Studies have shown that lions can be a significant source of mortality for hyenas, but other studies have shown that hyenas benefit from lions by stealing their kills.
The lower number of hyenas in the WMA is likely due to the greater human disturbance in the WMA, which borders unprotected village land. The cameras recorded evidence of this activity, showing images of snared hyenas and illegal excursions. The closer proximity to humans increases the incidence of human-wildlife conflict, and studies have shown that hyena are often poisoned to reduce cattle predation. This study demonstrates that the protection offered to hyenas – by buffering human contact in the core national park by WMAs and games reserves – works. The core national park may serve as a source population, from which hyenas disperse into the WMAs and game reserves, which act as sinks, as the individuals in these areas face higher mortality risks.
The findings also provide some of the first insights into spotted hyena population ecology in miombo woodland habitat. Estimates from miombo woodland in Ruaha (3.55 per 100km2) and Rungwa (5.82 per 100 km2) were considerably higher than estimates from miombo habitats elsewhere (for example, at 2.62 in Majete Game Reserve, Malawi). Densities in the miombo woodland of Rungwa were likely highest as this area receives high rainfall and likely supports high prey density and, consequently, more hyenas.
A hyena carries its cub to a new den site
The bigger hyena picture
Using spatially explicit density methods allows for a bigger picture to emerge. How the hyena uses the landscape depends on multiple factors that interact and impact population size. Habitat type (productivity in terms of supporting prey numbers) and protection from human-induced mortality (snares and disturbance) seem to have a more significant impact on digits than the presence of other predators (lion and leopard). Knowing this gives conservationists a better idea of what hyenas need to persist in landscapes of mosaic uses and habitats.
Spotted hyenas have elaborate sex lives, and high-ranked male spotted hyenas are more reproductively successful than their low-ranked rivals – read why here.
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THE Big-5 guide + Lake Mburo + pro photo safari
Try this method to REBOOT your appreciation of Africa’s awesomeness when you are next on safari. Come game drive time, leave the camera and mobile phone back at camp. Separation anxiety is a real thing, but it will pass as you enjoy the theatre of the wild. Your senses will swell with a sense of purpose as you engage them more fully to extract the nuances of every natural signal that enters your personal space. You see, when we use our recording devices we deactivate most of these senses to focus purely on the mission to create a digital confirmation of real life. We outsource the experience to a device and focus instead on the device settings and lens view. Compare the wild celebrations of previous New Year’s Eve parties when that clock struck midnight to the current version: mute creatures pointing cell phones in the air. Get my point? Savour the moments on that game drive and think about a revamped relationship with your recording device – make it subservient to your appreciation and enjoyment of life.
Thanks to all who shared last week’s story about two more giant elephants – super tuskers – killed by trophy hunters. The article caused quite a stir on social media: there has been a slew of debate and we are proud to have triggered that essential process. Some important people have taken notice and we hope that wise decisions are being made. Thanks also to those who sent us additional information about the hunting parties involved – all useful info has been forwarded to relevant organisations. KEEP SHARING the article! A luta continua
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
How do plants survive droughts in arid areas? Well, in the semi-desert of the Karoo, South Africa, the hero of our story is none other than a tiny tortoise.
Did you know that the diminutive Karoo dwarf tortoise plays an essential role in the survival of plants in the Karoo? At 11cm long, the tortoise is one of the world’s smallest. Researchers have just found that the tortoises plays a vital part in helping plants to survive drought by dispersing seeds to suitable microsites for germination. The tortoise locates and eats rare plants, and passes viable seeds through its digestive tract. As an added bonus, the tortoise’s preferred habitat of ample shade and run-off water happens to be the ideal habitat for germination. And that is how this tiny, highly endangered tortoise packs a huge punch, highlighting the broad role that understudied species can play in a landscape.
Talking about dynamite in small packages, don’t miss our story on Lake Mburo, Uganda’s smallest national park – which offers ample wildlife and diverse habitats. And if you’re on a quest to see the Big 5 on safari, check out the essential tips and ready-made safaris in our second story below.
Fancy a guided photographic safari in the Maasai Mara? Join award-winning photographer Arnfinn Johansen on this exclusive safari for four guests in Maasai Mara, Kenya. Highlights include guided game drives by an experienced Maasai guide in a modified photographic vehicle, and accommodation at Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp.
Olivier Billon and family went on a South African safari with AG. From Greater Kruger to Cape Town, the Billons had a whirlwind taste of the best South Africa has to offer. Olivier says:
“We had a marvellous family trip during the Christmas holidays. AG tailor-made a perfect trip for us. The choice of lodges in the Kruger area was very good and well sequenced – and we met very professional and smiling staff everywhere. The accommodation in Cape Town was very comfortable and well located. The communication with AG’s travel experts was very fluid and efficient. We highly recommend AG!”
WATCH: Not for the faint hearted. A rhino stuck in a muddy waterhole attracts the attention of hungry lions… But will a passing elephant be able to help? These tourists witnessed hours of wildlife action at Aus waterhole in Etosha National Park. (02:58) Click here to watch
Adventurer or birder, serious wildlife spotter or aquafile, or simply seeking that once-in-a-lifetime African safari – Lake Mburo National Park awaits you. Lake Mburo is Uganda’s smallest national park, with an area of just 260 km2, but it packs a punch with its diversity of natural wonders. There’s a little magic for everyone, from lakes to savannah, from giraffes to leopards, from walking to fishing.
The Lake Mburo National Park (Lake Mburo)’s slogan is “whispers of the wild”, and indeed the soughing of wind in the trees and grasses brings peace to the city-worn soul. If one listens carefully, there are other whispers in the wind, voices from bygone eras, from people who have loved the land before.
Check out Uganda for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from – or ask us to build one just for you.
A visit to the Lake Mburo National Park is often included on safari itineraries because it offers the sweeping vistas of the typical savannah habitat, and it is also the only protected area in the country with impala and Burchell’s zebra. Lake Mburo offers the quintessential African safari experience. One feels that at any moment, Hemingway may join you for a gin and tonic around the campfire.
Guided walks allow up-close encounters with Lake Mburo’s wildlife
But Lake Mburo goes one step better. Besides the savannah element, the park is a treasure trove of other habitats, including five lakes and 50km2 of wetlands. The park hosts hills and shrublands, grasslands, seasonal and permanent swamps, rocky outcrops and thickets. With each habitat comes its cast of inhabitants, from birds to otters.
The park hosts a treasure trove of habitats, including five lakes shrublands and grasslands
The wild things of Lake Mburo
The birds are the jewels in Lake Mburo’s crown. With over 300 bird species recorded here, many associated with the acacia and water habitats in the park, this is a birder’s dream come true. Birds adorn the trees like Christmas decorations, tiny dots of colour and chirp. Lake Mburo has given many a birdwatcher their first exciting glimpse of the elusive African finfoot with its bright red, big feet or the sighting of the brown-chested lapwing that arrives in November to hang out on the zebra trails.
More than 300 bird species are recorded in Lake Mburo, including saddle-billed stork
The rasping calls of the near-threatened red-faced barbet will draw you into the woodlands and, in the wetlands, there is the opportunity to watch the giant, solemn-looking shoebill (actually part of the pelican family), standing still and ponderous at the water’s edge. Other bird species with names that roll off the tongue include the green-winged pytilia, papyrus yellow warbler, African paradise flycatcher, black-headed gonolek, rufus-bellied heron and many more. Lake Mburo has the highest concentration of raptors in Uganda (35 species), including the African-Eurasian migrant the African harrier hawk.
The national park is the only one in Uganda with eland, impala and klipspringer. It is also home to the largest zebra population in Uganda – estimated at 5,000 large – and probably contains the highest concentration of leopards found anywhere in Uganda (about 25 in total, according to a recent camera trap study). Other animals that inhabit the park include buffalo, waterbuck, topi, oribi, warthog, reedbuck, hyena, genet, bush pig and white-tailed mongoose. The lakes support about 300 hippos and a heap of Nile crocodiles. Three otter species frolic in the lakes’ waters: Congo clawless, Cape clawless, and the spotted-neck otter.
Lake Mburo is home to abundant wildlife, including defassa waterbuckLake Mburo is the only protected area in Uganda with impala and Burchell’s zebraLarge herds of impala can be found in the park
The story of Lake Mburo
Lake Mburo’s history explains why it has remained a sanctuary of wilderness. Before it became a protected area, it was known for the culture of pastoralists who roamed its plains and hills as the “Karo Kurungi” (translated as “beautiful land”). The culture of the Banyankole Bahima people has been instrumental in preserving its beauty. Part of this is that the Bahima believed that the beauty of their Ankole cattle depended on preserving the pastoral beauty of the ancestral lands of Karo Kurungi. Ankole cattle, a breed of Sanga long-horned cattle, are well-adapted to living on sparse forage and minimal water and provide meat and very rich milk. The Bahima believed they had been charged with the care of the Ankole and that their cattle’s success depended on the land remaining beautiful – and thus unfarmed, uncropped and unfenced. This prevented other factions of the Banyankole – the Bahinda and Bairu farming class – from turning Karo Karungi into a production landscape of farms and fences.
Ankole cattle are an important part of the heritage of Bahima people
As rangeland grazing in the savannah biome is determined by the unpredictable vagaries of sun and rainfall, pastoralists needed to meander far and wide with their cattle. This intermittent grazing, unrestrained by fences, allowed the grasslands to rest and recover after grazing. The cattle grazing also kept the grasslands open from bush encroachment (when acacia tree thickets started to dominate the plains). In essence, the pastoral nature of the Bahima kept the savannah intact.
Visitors will sometimes see Ankole cattle grazing alongside zebra in the park
This, however, all went awry when the park was gazetted in 1983, and residents were evicted from the land with little consultation and no compensation. Effectively, the Bahima were abruptly disconnected from their “Beautiful Land” and their pastoralist identity. But the story does not stop there. People in power listened to the story of the Bahima’s Ankole cattle, of how the culture’s values were tied inextricably to the land, and the state reopened the park and degazetted some of the land in 1986. Now, the park is unfenced and managed to include the values of the Banyankole culture as well as the protection of wildlife. As a result, visitors will sometimes see these cattle, stippled with patterns that look like the dapplings of light through the trees, grazing alongside zebra in the park. The park and the people have started a new journey together, which is why Lake Mburo is so special. It is one of the few places left that reflects Africa’s fenceless, wild, untamed rangelands. It is an oasis amongst the surrounding landscape’s dairy farms and subsistence croplands.
Eland grazing in Lake Mburo’s woodland
Activities in Lake Mburo
The park offers an array of guided activities – enough to whet the tastebuds of any explorer – from walking and cycling to horseback safaris and game drives. These provide a unique experience of moving amongst the giraffe and zebra in their habitat.
Admiring a defassa waterbuck
Night game drives can be arranged to increase your chances of seeing night-dwelling creatures, such as bush babies, genet, leopards and porcupines.
A guided game drive will take visitors to the heart of the action
Visitors can also take to the water in Lake Mburo on a two-hour boat cruise, which allows the opportunity to watch crocodiles and hippos, hear the iconic call of the African fish eagle and seek out exciting wetland birds. Private cruises can also be arranged. Fishing permits are also issued by the Uganda Wildlife Authority to allow the chance to catch tilapia in the lake.
Hippos resting in one of Lake Mburo’s five lakes
Explore and stay
Keen on visiting Lake Mburo for your next African safari? The park offers a wide variety of accommodation options available in and outside the park, from affordable camping sites to luxury lodges. It is easily accessible and only a 3-hour drive from Kampala, though there are also chartered flights available from Entebbe International Airport to the airstrip in Mbarara, a 90-minute drive from Lake Mburo.
Sundowners with a view, anyone?
Lake Mburo NP is often included as a convenient and enjoyable halfway stop point on the long drive between Kampala and Bwindi Impenetrable National Park – popular for its gorilla trekking opportunities.
The park’s annual rainfall and temperatures average 800 mm and 28°C, respectively. The best times to visit are during Lake Mburo’s two dry seasons: December to February and June to August.
If you can visit this “Beautiful Land” with its abundant birdlife, speckled cattle, pronking impala and lissom giraffe, then don’t hold back – Africa’s magic awaits you.
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2 super tuskers hunted in Tanzania
Yet again a concerning trophy-hunting report interrupts and postpones what was going to be a celebratory editorial.
Our story below is just another example of how individuals within the trophy-hunting industry are focussed on removing the extraordinary but dwindling populations of genetically gifted individuals amongst our free-roaming wildlife.
To our ever-supportive AGtribe across the planet, please share this article far and wide. Sparking just one relevant decision-maker could generate enormous conservation benefits. Even the hunters amongst you know that this is wrong and that things have to change.
This is a shout out to other safari tourism brands and individuals to get involved – join us in identifying and calling out this destructive, immoral behaviour. Share the link below with influential people in your networks – you know who they are. Go beyond your corporate handcuffs; stick your head above the parapet and condemn the evil ones. Yes, you may suffer insults, threats and sanctions (we certainly do) – but your clients and followers will know what you stand for. You know what to do – just do it. Please.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Elon Musk has again warned that Artificial Intelligence is a risk to humanity that could lead to civilisation destruction, and called for its regulation. Musk’s foreboding has us all questioning – will AI be used for good, or evil?
In the hands of the right people, it can work wonders. Did you know AI is helping conservationists manage ecosystems and protect endangered species?
Analysing masses of data on animal behaviour and habitat condition is the perfect job for AI – simplifying tasks that would take humans years. In the right hands, AI combats biodiversity loss, monitors ecosystems and identify trends – streamlining conservation efforts.
Whether you are a passionate beginner or a seasoned creator, this unique art safari offers the chance to hone your skills with professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls. Soak up the atmosphere of the Big-5 Timbavati Private Nature Reserve in the Greater Kruger, South Africa and channel it into artistry. 21-27 September 2024 – only 3 spots left! Or, get in touch with our travel experts to plan your 2024 safari.
Want to make your mark for wildlife conservation in 2024?
Consider lending your support to our Collar a Lion and Save a Pangolin campaigns. These key species and the experts tirelessly protecting them need our help to make an impact on their long-term survival.
Why do these projects need your support?
The African lion is a vulnerable species – their population has decreased by 75% in just five decades. Any donation – large or small – will help finance collars and support this critical conservation project.
Your donation will help shift the scales in favour of these pangolins – it will provide the funds to deal with the seasonal influx of these precious creatures – the world’s most trafficked animal.
WATCH: Our safari experts view January and February as the months to experience the calving season for wildebeest in Maasai Mara, and predator action in Kruger. The weather is fine on East Africa’s paradise islands, and clear skies make for excellent gorilla trekking. Here’s what’s on offer for your January and February safaris. (01:30) Click here to watch
Update 23/04/2024: We can confirm that two more large-tusked elephants have been trophy hunted in Tanzania near the Kenya border. A fourth elephant was hunted in Enduimet on 11 April – likely from the Amboseli elephant population. A fifth elephant was hunted in Longido, to the west of Enduimet, during the week of 14 April. The hunts were allegedly conducted by the same hunting outfitter that hunted previous elephants in the area and involved high profile members of Tanzania’s hunting fraternity. Our sources advise that unscrupulous outfitters are willing to violate the moratorium on hunting along the Kenya/Tanzania border, with no regard for the precarious state of Amboseli’s dwindling super tusker population. Meanwhile, those with detailed information are on lockdown, nervous to reveal details for fear of persecution – while petitions to the Tanzanian government fall on deaf ears.
Update 28/03/2024: Africa Geographic is now able to share photos taken shortly after the first trophy hunt that took place in Enduimet, showing the carcass and tusks of super tusker Gilgil. In the first image, Gilgil’s carcass can clearly be seen, and in the second, the tusks, removed from the carcass (measuring 99 pounds and 110 pound), are visible.
The carcass of super tusker Gilgil, trophy hunted in Enduimet; and Gilgil’s tusks after being removed from the carcass. The men pictured here were not members of the hunting party
Update 14/03/2024:Amboseli Trust for Elephants has positively identified the first trophy-hunted bull as Gilgil, a breeding elephant aged 35, who would have been approaching his prime reproductive years. Male elephants reach their prime breeding years at or about 40 years. Our sources confirm Gilgil was a ‘100-pounder’, with one tusk weighing 99 pounds and the other 110 pounds.
Trophy hunted: 2 super tuskers in Tanzania
10 January 2024 – A trend of Tanzanian trophy hunters targeting ‘100-pounder’ elephants has raised concerns of a new threat to the last few remaining super tuskers, of which as few as 50–100 may still be alive today.
In recent months, trophy hunters have killed two super tuskers – bulls with at least one 100-pound tusk – close to Tanzania’s border with Kenya. This greater Amboseli ecosystem is a famous haven for these giant elephants, where many have become habituated as a result of close interaction with humans. The trend of targeting these ecologically and economically important animals requires immediate critical attention.
What we know about these two super-tusker hunts:
Two ‘super-tusker’ elephants (defined in East Africa as elephants with at least one tusk weighing 100 pounds) were trophy hunted in the West-Kilimanjaro area of northern Tanzania in the latter half of 2023. West-Kilimanjaro includes the Enduimet Wildlife Management area, surrounding government-owned land and private ranches.
Two different hunting companies were responsible.
In both cases, the hunters burnt the elephant carcasses – an uncommon practice amongst hunting operators in Tanzania.
All super tuskers are individually known to conservation organisations, but the identity of these elephants has not yet been established. The burning of the carcasses made post-mortem ID impossible.
All information at hand suggests that the required permits were in place for both trophy hunts.
Super tusker 1 – September 2023
The first hunt took place in Enduimet Wildlife Management Area in September 2023.
The elephant was killed approximately 24km from the international border between Tanzania and Kenya.
There are unconfirmed reports that the hunting operator identified the specific super tusker while the elephant was outside the hunting block and targeted the elephant shortly after it crossed into the hunting zone.
Africa Geographic contacted the relevant hunting operator and requested information about the elephant in question, such as images and tusk sizes. The operator responded to our message but refused to provide the requested information.
Update 14/03/2024: Amboseli Trust for Elephants has positively identified the first trophy-hunted bull as Gilgil, a breeding elephant aged 35, who would have been approaching his prime reproductive years. Male elephants reach their prime breeding years at or about 40 years. Our sources confirm Gilgil was a ‘100-pounder’, with one tusk weighing 99 pounds and the other 110 pounds.
Super tusker 2 – November 2023
The second hunt occurred in November 2023 on a piece of land neighbouring Enduimet Wildlife Management Area – approximately 36km from the international border between Tanzania and Kenya.
A helicopter was observed flying extensively in the area in the days preceding the hunt. Using an aircraft to find or coerce target animals is considered extremely unethical by responsible trophy hunters.
Africa Geographic contacted the relevant hunting operator and requested information about the elephant in question, such as images and tusk sizes. The operator responded to our message but refused to divulge any information and was, unfortunately, somewhat disparaging of our requests for transparency.
About super tuskers and this cross-border elephant population
There are estimated to be between 50 and 100 elephants remaining in Africa with at least one tusk weighing 100 pounds or more. Most of these roam the unfenced regions of southern Kenya and northern Tanzania, but some are still found in Southern Africa. The population has been decimated by the combined impacts of the ivory trade (legal and poached), human-wildlife conflict and trophy hunting. Read more about the trophy hunting of super tuskers here (Botswana) and here (Zimbabwe).
There are regulations governing a minimum tusk size requirement for trophy-hunted elephants in Tanzania, but no stipulation of a maximum tusk or body size.
The Amboseli elephant population is one of the best protected in the world and the subject of the world’s longest-running population study. Being extremely habituated, this elephant population is also one of the primary attractions that make Amboseli National Park one of Kenya’s top three most-visited national parks.
Eight young Amboseli males were recently satellite-collared to determine the behaviour and range of young males who had recently left their natal families. Two of these males spend most of their time in Tanzania, near Enduimet, Tinga Tinga and beyond. Earlier radio-collaring of older males also showed extensive and frequent movement between Kenya and Tanzania.
Enduimet area: “For some of the big males, the Enduimet area is part of their non-musth range when they are fairly sedentary. Once in musth, they will range across most of the Amboseli ecosystem, which is cross-border,” said Cynthia Moss, director of Amboseli Trust for Elephants during an email discussion with Africa Geographic.
Amboseli elephants are habituated to vehicles and also to people on foot because they live among the Maasai people. Photographers lie on the ground to photograph the magnificent giant elephants as they stroll close by unconcerned. “Shooting an Amboseli bull is about as sporting as shooting your neighbour’s poodle,” said Moss in an interview conducted in 1996.
The ‘value’ of elephants – the science and ethics
The debate on justification for sport-hunting elephants continues, and government policies vary widely across Africa. However, there are specific reasons why targeting ‘super-tuskers’ is ill-advised:
Genetic scarcity: Following centuries of selective removal by the ivory trade (legal and poached) and trophy hunters, genes for large tusks are becoming increasingly rare, as evidenced by the scarcity of big-tusked elephants. There are estimated to be between 50 and 100 elephants remaining in Africa with one tusk weighing 100 pounds or more.
Breeding value: Long-term research has shown that males between 40–54 years (which have the largest tusks) have the highest reproductive success.
“Elephant males continue to go through yearly musth cycles well into their 50s. When they are in musth, they roam far and wide to find females for mating,” said Moss.
She further explained:
“Females exercise choice, and they prefer to mate with older males in musth. Elephant males only start coming into musth in their late 20s, but it is the older males in their 40s and 50s that the females choose. Elephants grow throughout their lifetime, and their tusks grow faster in their last decade of life. When a female chooses a mate, she chooses one for his age, which indicates health and robustness. These older males have proven their genetic quality because they have survived to an older age. We have no indication that the females are choosing males with larger tusks. However, the larger tusks are an advantage to a male in a fight.”
Social value:Older bulls are also important in elephant society for their control of behaviour in younger bulls. Older male elephants – whether they have big tusks or not – are important to other, younger males in teaching and setting examples. They are also important friends and companions to other elephants.
Economic value: The Greater Amboseli Ecosystem contains some of the most economically valuable and best-known elephants on the planet – like Craig – that are a primary attraction for tourists to the Greater Amboseli Ecosystem and a pillar of an industry which generates millions of dollars in revenue every year. The trophy fee to hunt the largest category of elephant in Tanzania is approximately $20,000. The average elephant’s lifetime value from attracting tourists is estimated at $1,607,625 – while the value of a large-tusked individual would be much higher. Killing one of the last remaining giant elephants on Earth for the benefit of one hunting operator and client appears to be a huge waste of revenue opportunity, aside from other important conservation issues discussed here.
Ethical considerations: The debate about sport-hunting a highly social, long-lived, intelligent animal continues. However, these questions are amplified in this context when the elephants being killed are extremely habituated and trusting due to good protection and frequent interactions with tourists.
Historic ban on trophy hunting of these cross-border tuskers
When considering a solution, there is a precedent for exactly this situation. After three well-known Amboseli elephants were killed by sport hunters near the Kenya-Tanzania border in 1994, authorities from both countries were apparently able to reach an agreement toban hunting “along the border” until Kenya and Tanzania could best decide how to manage hunting tourism in this area.According to a newspaper article, this agreement was announced by then Principal Secretary of the Tanzanian Ministry of Natural Resources, Tourism and Environment, Dr. Ben Moshi, but we have not been able to source a copy of such an agreement. However, it would appear that there was a historic solution that was mutually acceptable and respected until recently, and this could be revisited.
Our search for specifics about the hunting of these tuskers:
Enduimet management, the Tanzania Wildlife Management Authority, and the Tanzania Hunting Operators Association were all approached for comment and have yet to respond. Relevant information will be added to this article as we receive responses.
Giraffes are quite sociable creatures – a dynamic that is riveting to witness when on an African safari. So sociable that they get together with other giraffes and form little groups that join up and disband throughout the day, based on unknown giraffe social cues. This socialisation is referred to as fission-fusion dynamics, which sounds like something an atom would do, but is actually what giraffes do. But how are these bonds formed? Researchers studying Maasai giraffes have tried to find out.
Giraffes – the social butterflies
Females, in particular, like to form close-knit communities with other possibly related females, whereas the young males tend to disperse and form loose coalitions (bachelor gangs), and the older males are more independent and roam alone, searching for receptive females (the equivalent, I imagine, of a mature gent cruising for ladies).
Girl giraffes need their best friends, as they have higher survival rates when hanging together in herds. Also, hanging out with the girls means that mom has a babysitter to take care of the kids when she wants to get a drink at the waterhole. Studies show that females share nonparental offspring care in giraffe ‘creches’ (aka babysitting).
Let’s get together, yeah yeah yeah
A group of researchers studying social associations in Maasai giraffe speculated that these females forming long-term associations were related. This could imply that staying with aunts and nieces confers greater fitness (increased survival). The authors decided to see if females might choose who they hang out with based on their appearance – according to their spot variation. As spot pattern is heritable, related giraffes should also have similar spot patterns.
So, the first thing to know about giraffe spot patterns is that there is an exceptionally high variation in spot patterns in the Masai giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis tippelskirchi). The second thing to know is that the giraffe has exceptional visual acuity among mammals based on the anatomy of their eye and adaptations of their visual genes. Communication among giraffes could be primarily visual. The characteristic coat colour of a giraffe is reddish-brown spots set within a network of white lines. As their eyes are particularly sensitive to red pigments, this could mean that their excellent eyesight allows them to discriminate between individual giraffes.
Masai giraffes in Amboseli National Park, Kenya
What beautiful spots you have, dear
To understand if a giraffe chose friends with similar looks (spotty coats), the researchers first had to describe the differing spot markings of different giraffes. The authors described the spot pattern of 399 free-ranging adult female Masai giraffes inhabiting a large, unfenced landscape in Tanzania. They chose to measure ten traits of all the spots within one region on the flank of the giraffes and recorded characteristics such as the number, circularity, solidity, size, area, and orientation of spots. They then drove around the landscape to see which females were grouped.
They found that the shape of spots was mainly a predictor of female pairing or grouping. Females preferred to mingle with other females of similar spot shapes. Thus, they conclude that female giraffe associations may be based on kinship as reflected by heritable spot traits. The visual cue of coat spot pattern may enable kin recognition in general and potentially individual identification of familiar giraffes. The authors hasten to add, “…we do not suggest that giraffes are mathematically quantifying the shape of the individual spots of other giraffes they encounter, but they may be able to rapidly assess the general ‘gestalt’ of the patterns.”
It’s an exciting theory, and further research would identify whether giraffes are using smell to identify relatives (and not spots) or whether these similarities are genetic in origin. Meanwhile, I will enjoy the idea that giraffes choose besties based on their sense of dress; polka dots are the ‘in-thing’ in giraffe fashion this year!
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Mountains of the Moon + parent like a Wahlberg’s eagle
Apparently we are pouring $billions into humanoid bots, gene-editing therapies, and brain implants to ‘improve’ our lives. At the same time we are pillaging the planet that sustains us. What could possibly go wrong?
Meanwhile, at ground level in Africa, our Photographer of the Year 2023 winners witnessed a rather gritty incident during their safari in Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana. We came across a stressed giraffe wandering around, after-birth dangling. A party of jackals were tailing her, hoping to snack on that juicy morsel. Having eaten her newborn shortly after it dropped, they were intent on cleaning up. We were all contemplative after witnessing this dramatic demonstration of natural processes. How different that was to the sanitised, packaged world our species is intent on creating, at the exclusion of real life.
Be the change you want to see in the world. Never give up
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Life is tough for rodents in Africa. When they’re not dying out due to habitat loss or poisoning, they’re dodging predators of all shapes and sizes, bearing teeth, claws, beaks and thumbs. To survive as a rat in Africa, one must grow a thick skin. One must innovate: just like the African crested rat, found in East Africa.
Did you know that the crested rat coats its fur in a poison so lethal it can fell an elephant, to protect itself from predators? The rat chews on the toxic poison arrow tree and transfers the toxins onto its fur. The poison then causes distress, or even sudden death, in its attackers. The rat’s other adaptations include a large stomach to detoxify poison, tough skin and a reinforced skull.
May you experience prosperity and opportunity in 2024 – and may you also develop a thick skin, strong stomach and hard head for any toothy challenges that come your way.
This week, don’t miss our story on Rwenzori Mountains for travel inspiration, and read about the fascinating parenting style of the Wahlberg’s eagle – all below.
Maasai Mara Champagne safari – 6 days – from US$7,115pps
Luxury awaits on this carefully curated safari, designed to complement the magnificence of the vast Maasai Mara plains. Complete with a private vehicle, picnics galore, and a hot-air balloon flight with a Champagne breakfast, this safari will impress even the most discerning traveller. Plus, this safari is conducted from the comfort of the glamorous Angama Mara, perched on the edge of an escarpment, overlooking the ‘Out of Africa’ scenery below. What are you waiting for?
Safari trip report – Birding in Madagascar
Colleen Krog went on a birding safari with us to Andasibe-Mantadia in Madagascar. Thank you for your 5-star review, Colleen! Here is what Colleen had to say about her experience:
“Based at Feon’y Ala, I was able to explore Andasibe-Mantadia thoroughly over a couple of days. This was the first time I did a birding trip like this – as I am usually an occasional birder.
Our guides, Tojo and Maurice, were really excellent and made all the difference. I am sure they often guide more experienced birders and photographers. But I am a novice, and really enjoyed the trip. They really went out of their way to show me incredible species – and went above and beyond! It really made all the difference. They were on a mission to find every bird that is found in the area. We walked plenty and bashed through dense forest. It was so much fun!”
WATCH: Fancy a pick-me-up? Take a breather and enjoy a moment of Kruger lion cubs exploring, tumbling, huddling and roughhousing as they await the return of their grown ups. (02:54) Click here to watch
Lying just 33 kilometres north of the equator, snug in the heart of the African continent, a world of mystery and unparalleled beauty awaits the adventurous – the Rwenzori Mountains. Rising majestically along the border between Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo, these enigmatic peaks evoke a sense of wonder and intrigue to all who visit – providing for an African safari like no other.
The landscape of the Rwenzoris is a dramatic blend of rugged peaks, deep valleys, and cascading waterfalls. Towering above the surrounding plains, the snow-capped mountains create a breathtaking panorama. Glacial lakes shimmer amidst the lush vegetation, and the thundering waters of the Mubuku and Bujuku Rivers add to the park’s pristine beauty. The diverse topography of the region and its location in the tropics offers a seldom-seen diversity of ecosystems, from bamboo forests to alpine meadows and moss-draped valleys.
Of rainmakers and mighty rivers
Recognised for its unique biodiversity and the value of water flowing from its mountainsides, the Rwenzori Mountains National Park was established in 1991. In 1994, UNESCO afforded it World Heritage Site status, and in 2008, it was named a Ramsar site for its value in the protection of wetlands. The park now conserves almost 1,000km² of this unique and vulnerable region with its five distinct vegetation zones and unprecedented levels of endemic species.
The Rwenzori Mountain region has been home to many diverse people and societies for millennia. All recognised the value of the water flowing from the peaks and held them sacred. The Bakonzo people even named the mountains “rainmaker”, a fitting name for what is one of Africa’s most essential water sources.
Exploring the Mubuku River on foot
Ptolemy, the Greek-Egyptian astronomer, mathematician, and geographer, incorrectly identified the Rwenzoris as the source of the Nile River, giving the range its charming moniker “Montes Lunae” or the “Mountains of the Moon”. Not until much later was the true source discovered at Lake Victoria in Uganda.
Since becoming known outside of Africa, the region has captivated the imaginations of explorers, adventurers and scientists worldwide, sparking expeditions to try and unravel the mysteries and secrets of this primordial wonder.
The national park’s various trekking experiences are undoubted highlights
Moody rainforests and misty Rwenzori peaks
The Rwenzori massif stretches for roughly 120 kilometres along the western leg of the Albertine Rift, its jagged ridges, glacial valleys, and lush vegetation creating an otherworldly landscape that beckons the adventurous. These majestic giants are adorned with a crown of ever-present snow and ice, defying their equatorial location and creating a unique alpine environment. The unique combination of high altitude, equatorial location, and calm, wet climate in the Rwenzori Mountains has resulted in distinct ecosystems and rich biodiversity. It is not only the imposing height and alpine beauty that define the Mountains of the Moon. Its exceptional biodiversity and remarkable flora characterise the region. Within its diverse ecological zones, from the lowland rainforests to the moss-draped afro-alpine zone, one can discover a wealth of endemic plant species, colourful birdlife, and elusive wildlife.
The central mountain massif, Mount Stanley (also known as Mount Ngaliema), comprises three 5,000m peaks, of which Margherita is the tallest at 5,109m above sea level. This is the third highest peak in Africa after Kilimanjaro and Mount Kenya, but is perhaps the most difficult to summit because of the very rugged nature of the terrain there.
The highest peaks in the Rwenzori Mountains are permanently snowcapped. Here, the snows of Margherita, part of Mount Stanley, can be seen
Trekking the Rwenzori grand trails
The Rwenzori Mountains National Park offers many attractions catering to nature enthusiasts and adventure seekers, making for a truly unique African safari experience. The park’s undoubted highlights are the Rwenzori Mountain trekking experiences available. Multi-day hikes, ranging from moderate to strenuous, allow visitors to immerse themselves in the grandeur of the mountains. The most popular trekking route is the Kilembe Trail, which allows adventurers to explore the lower slopes of the mountains and witness breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape without the exhilarating challenge of tackling the higher peaks.
If time is a challenge, a day trip with a trained and knowledgeable guide will take you along trails offering insights into the region’s unique ecology, while pointing out endemic plant species, identifying bird calls and revealing the cultural charm of the area. Participating in cultural activities, such as traditional dances, storytelling sessions, and visits to local villages, will help you gain a deeper appreciation for the region’s heritage while contributing to the livelihoods of the people who protect this environment.
A trek up the Rwenzoris takes adventurers through five distinct vegetation zones, from grassland and plantations to a surreal afro-alpine landscape
Rwenzori forest specials
A visit to this region will enthral and richly reward you with sightings and experiences beyond your expectations. Your trek up these “rainmaker mountains” will take you gradually through five distinct vegetation zones, from grassland to the surreal afro-alpine landscape and on to equatorial glaciers. This diversity of habitats is rewarding but naturally yields “specials” found nowhere else. Regardless of your passion, you’ll find yourself marvelling at far more than you thought you might have should you embark on a trip to the Rwenzoris for your next African safari.
The early stages of a trek introduces visitor to the rustic lowland surroundings of coffee, vanilla and banana plantations. These soon give way at around 2,500m to shady and often misty montane forests with moss-covered trees, closed canopies, waterfalls and streams.
Multi-day hikes in the Rwenzori Mountains range from moderate to strenuous
Here, you will do well to scan for some of the elusive forest specials the park is known for. If you are quiet and lucky, you may catch a glimpse of the Rwenzori red duiker on the forest floor. At the same time, up in the canopy, Rwenzori colobus and blue monkeys and an intriguing diversity of bird specials await. For the sharp-eyed, hiding in plain sight is the prehistoric and somewhat comical-looking Rwenzori three-horned chameleon.
The park boasts seventeen of the twenty-four Albertine Rift endemic bird species, but they will take hard work and perhaps a little luck to find. Keep an eye out for the Rwenzori turaco, handsome francolin, strange weaver, Rwenzori nightjar, barred long-tailed cuckoo, Cassin’s hawk eagle, Shelley’s crimsonwing and purple-breasted, blue-headed and Rwenzori double-collared sunbirds.
Hiring a good bird guide will help you “grab” these species, which can be frustratingly elusive. Bring a good pair of binoculars, as the low-light forest viewing conditions can make viewing difficult.
At around 3,000m, trekkers enter an eerie and dark zone of giant bamboo grasses up to 30 metres tall, which will obscure the sky as if nature is covering one’s eyes for the surprise to come. Soon, a heather and moor wonderland is revealed as the equatorial peaks appear above.
Giant groundsels dotted across the Rwenzori Mountains
The real wonders of the Rwenzoris start above 4,000m, where botanical marvels, which evolved in isolation over millions of years, can be found. This is the afro-alpine zone – perhaps the most surreal part of this mountain world. Shrouded in mountain mists and inaccessible due to the challenging terrain, the area has been a refuge for plant life undergoing perilous evolutionary journeys. This isolation has allowed plants to evolve uniquely, adapting to the extreme conditions and carving out their niche in this montane ecosystem. The remarkable giants of the Rwenzori Mountains are a testament to the power of adaptation and the extraordinary wonders nature can create.
Enchanting giant lobelias (Lobelia gibberoa) stand tall, like sentinels, along the rugged slopes. These are among the most iconic plant species of the Rwenzori Mountains, reaching staggering heights of up to 10 metres, making them true botanical giants. Sharing their lofty habitat are giant groundsels (Dendrosenecio adnivalis), another botanical wonder of the Rwenzori Mountains. With their woody stems and tufts of silver-grey leaves, they seem to belong to a different era altogether. The groundsels bloom with clusters of bright yellow flowers that attract a myriad of insects, adding life to this surreal environment.
Exploring the Rwenzori Mountains National Park is a thrilling adventure with a range of accommodation options to suit your preference, from comfortable lodges to campsites. The nearby town of Kasese provides a convenient base for trekkers, offering hotels and guesthouses for those seeking a more urban experience.
Staying in the park or its vicinity allows visitors to savour the tranquillity of the mountains and embrace the soul-stirring beauty of this unique destination. Nyakalengija Park headquarters and campsite is an excellent place to begin your trip. Register at the park office, obtain the necessary permits, and meet your experienced local guides and porters who will accompany you throughout your journey.
Kilembe Base Camp offers accommodations for hikers and provides basic facilities while also being a convenient starting point for that hiking route.
Mount Baker and Lake Bujuku can be seen from the Bujuku Peak hike’s camp
Bujuku Valley is a picturesque area renowned for its stunning scenery. Visitors can traverse this valley, crossing fast-flowing rivers and observing mesmerising waterfalls along the way. The challenging Bujuku Peak hike offers panoramic views of the mountains and valleys.
For those seeking a shorter trek, the Mahoma Trail is a popular option. This trail takes visitors up through pristine bamboo forests, offering glimpses of diverse bird species and the chance to see the elusive Rwenzori turaco.
The Rwenzori Mountains National Park is an enchanting world where nature’s wonders are magnificently displayed. From the towering peaks to the astonishing alpine flora, every facet of this extraordinary landscape beckons travellers to embark on a remarkable life-altering journey. For those who visit, the Rwenzoris will etch themselves on the soul.
Why does the Wahlberg’s eagle lay only one egg? Most other eagles in their genus (Aquila) lay a second egg as a type of insurance policy – and in most cases, the second fledgling is killed through siblicide. The answer to the Wahlberg’s unique parenting style is fascinating…
The hard truth about birds in the nest
Most eagle chicks in the Aquila genus are ‘siblicidal’. This means that siblings fight each other to the point of death. The chicks are fiercely competitive for the food brought to the nest by the parents, and often, the bigger chick in the nest kills the smaller one, either through monopolising the food or pecking the younger sibling to the point where it is too cowed to move or beg and starves. So, what are the possible (evolutionary) reasons for this?
Dr Rob Simmons has always been fascinated by eagles. He became particularly interested in why some eagle species laid two eggs yet only ever rear one chick (because of siblicide). Why not just lay one egg? There has long been a theory that eagles lay two eggs as an insurance policy – if the first egg fails to hatch or the fledgling dies, they still have the second egg. However, the insurance policy does not hold true for all species that lay two eggs. In some species, the second egg regularly fails to hatch, even if the first one is unsuccessful. Could other life-history traits or environmental factors explain why some eagles lay one egg and some two eggs? If second eggs are not energetically costly for eagles to produce, all eagles should lay two eggs as an insurance policy. But some do not. The Wahlberg’s eagle (Aquila wahlbergi) regularly lays only one egg per clutch.
So, Simmons hatched a plan. He realised he could learn more about why an eagle would want to invest in two eggs by experimenting with an eagle that typically lays only one.
Wahlberg’s eagle is one of the smallest Aquila eagles (weighing only 1.3kg). It is an African migrant that breeds at high densities throughout southern Africa. Unusually for its size (there is a general allometric relationship in birds – species with smaller body sizes tend to have larger clutch sizes), the Wahlberg’s eagle typically lays only one egg per clutch. However, very occasionally, they do lay two eggs. This makes them an ideal species to look for patterns underlying the costs and benefits of one versus two eggs. Dr Simmons based his post-doctorate on the breeding dynamics of this species and conducted his fieldwork in Sabi Sand Game Reserve – Greater Kruger. How does one measure breeding success in nests many metres above your head? Simmons spent much time hanging from the high branches of jackalberry trees on a swaying rope ladder, sometimes up to 15 metres above the ground, measuring and weighing eggs and fledglings in Wahlberg’s eagle nests. He also used extendible mirrors as a less energetic way to check on their family life.
A Wahlberg’s eagle’s single egg in the nest
One of the first things Simmons confirmed was that the incidence of natural two-egg clutches was very low in this species. In 88 breeding events, a two-egg clutch was laid naturally only twice and in one of these nests, the first egg was unsuccessful, and the second egg survived, so the insurance policy proved valid.
But then why don’t all the pairs lay two eggs? Are these eagles all talking to the same investment broker?
Could it be that they lay two eggs when food is abundant? Previous experiments where Simmons gave extra food to breeding pairs before they laid did not result in any two-egg clutches. The abundance of food doesn’t explain the low incidence of two-egg clutches.
Simmons then wondered if the chicks exhibited siblicide, given that the Wahlberg’s eagle usually lays only one egg. He brought some small, similar-sized Wahlberg’s eagle chicks into his field laboratory and paired them up with each other in nest trays. He then rapidly had to unpair them, as they showed intense sibling aggression. They even climbed out of their nest trays to attack their neighbours in their boxes!
So now Simmons knew he had a species that usually laid one egg but could also lay two, which would result in siblicide.
He then asked if these eagles could rear two chicks given the chance, so he decided to add an extra chick of similar size to eight Wahlberg’s eagle nests. To avoid the second chick being killed by the first one, he waited until the aggressive phase had finished (about 35 days) and then added the extra fledgling to the nest. Imagine coming home to discover, out of the blue, that you have double the number of mouths to feed!
Simmons watched the nests carefully, and the parents accepted both chicks. There was no apparent aggression, and the adults appeared to feed both chicks equally. So, what happened to the chicks in these nests?
An eagle in the hand is worth two in the bush
Of the eight Wahlberg’s eagle pairs given a second chick by Simmons, only one pair succeeded in raising both chicks to the age of first flight. In all cases, the second chick lost weight and ended up smaller than the first. Simmons pinned it down to parental care. The parents just couldn’t cope with feeding two offspring. What was more fascinating was what the parents decided to do the following year. They rested! By tagging 35 adult Wahlbergs, Simmons found out that most breeding pairs returned to their territories every year – so he could compare the breeding success of birds that raised one chick and those that were given two. Significantly fewer of the pairs that had two chicks bred the following year compared to pairs that only had one chick.
A Wahlberg’s eagle catching flying ants as they emerged from their nest, Kruger National Park
So, let’s sum up what he has found out. It is costly for the Wahlberg’s eagles to have two chicks. Two are hard work to feed and have poor survival rates. Plus, the parents become too exhausted to breed the following year (so less eagle young is produced in the long run).
Egg-cellent investment
Could it be that hatching success is so great that the eagles don’t need a second egg for insurance? No, their hatching failure (ca 12,3%) is similar to that of other carnivorous birds that do produce two-egg clutches. So, what could be the advantage of producing a single egg? Simmons compared the Wahlberg’s eagle eggs to those of other species. The egg sizes of raptor species laying just one egg per clutch were 20-55% larger than the first egg of raptors laying two eggs per clutch. Simmons also observed that the sizes of hatched Wahlberg’s eagle eggs were bigger than the unhatched (unsuccessful) eggs. The bigger – the better. Big eggs might bring increased hatching success or chick survival.
All eagles are not equal. They don’t always choose the same insurance policy either. One might expect the Wahlberg’s eagle, with chicks demonstrating siblicide behaviour and small body size, to follow the insurance egg policy of having two eggs – but this is not the case. Simmons shows that clutch size might be a function of the number of chicks the parents can feasibly afford to feed, and they therefore ‘choose’ to make one larger egg.
Bigger eggs are more hatchable, so the Wahlberg’s eagles are putting their investment in a nest egg (excuse the pun) – in one big, successful egg rather than two smaller eggs. They are choosing egg quality over egg quantity. Single, large eggs do not require second-egg insurance as they are intrinsically more likely to hatch. Lots of studies point to the fact that chicks hatching from large eggs enjoy greater chances of nestling survival and enhanced growth characteristics than small chicks and eggs. This larger body size confers a measurable survival advantage and has been correlated with lifetime success. Therefore, large egg size can have a reproductive advantage in later life – what your broker would call a high-risk, high-reward strategy. Whereas eagles that lay two eggs in a clutch could be said to be putting all their eggs in one basket. The inevitable siblicide is the fine-tuning of getting bang for your buck – parent eagles tolerate siblicide as it optimises the quality of the remaining chick.
Cost-benefit analysis
Simmons qualifies that producing a large viable egg is most likely in long-lived bird species. Long-lived species would want to maximise adult survival and thus avoid the smaller two insurance eggs as this would compromise their ability to produce larger, higher-quality eggs. The intrinsically higher hatchability of large eggs offsets the need for second-egg insurance and results in large chicks with enhanced survival prospects. Put that in the bank!
During 2023 you engaged with our stories more than 2 million times. More than 27,000 new adventurers joined our tribe. And many of you travelled with us to the wildest corners of the continent for your safari fix.
This, in the context of the last decade, where 16 million of you have read our stories that reflect the complexity and reality of life at ground level here in Africa. That’s 16m caring individuals from across the globe – our tribe – that have taken on board the science and considered opinions, and helped us spread the word and CELEBRATE AFRICA.
Here are some of our highlights from 2023, the year that was:
Our 2023 story picks
Things to do in Victoria Falls
Victoria Falls is one of Africa’s most popular tourist destinations – for good reason. We shared our ultimate Victoria Falls to-do list, and our tribe started planning their adventures.
Trophy hunted
A male desert-adapted lion was hunted amidst suspicious circumstances in Namibia. We asked questions of MEFT and triggered international awareness and action
15 Top African wildlife experience
We prepared the ultimate guide to your African safari bucket list. Here were our choices of 15 top African wildlife experiences on the continent
Vet fences
Our most popular story showed you care about the welfare of Africa’s wildlife. Gail Thomson asked whether Namibia & Botswana should bring down their veterinary fences
Archeological magic in Makgadikgadi
Archaeological sites in the Makgadikgadi salt pans reveal how ancient humans used black silcrete formed from lake mud to make tools
Bush or beach?
There’s no need to choose! We brought you the best combo safaris featuring epic beach & bush destinations for the ultimate African holiday
Our most popular safaris in 2023
Big 5 + chimps + gorillas in Rwanda
Is this the best bucket-list safari out there? AG’s followers think so! This safari offers the chance to flatten three bucket-list items in one epic safari – in one country!
Maasai Mara migration season safari
This safari offers front-row seats to the greatest show on Earth – the Great Wildebeest Migration in Kenya’s Maasai Mara
Southern Africa mega safari
This safari-to-end-all-safaris will sweep you off your feet. An iconic holiday in southern Africa that combines Greater Kruger, Cape Town and the Winelands, Khwai, Chobe and Victoria Falls
Your top social media pics this year
202,510 of you checked out this photo of a lion cub taking a breather between mouthfuls and absolutely loved it. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya58,670 of you loved this image of a leopardess carrying her cub, her iron jaws made gentle by motherhood as she transports her precious cargo. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya58,560 of you held your breath when you saw this picture. “A jackal pressured this tawny eagle into dropping its quarry moments after it had managed to grab the pup.” The mother rescued the pup and transported it to a new den, unharmed. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya17,950 of you were enchanted by this young elephant. The calf seemingly snuggled up to its mother, showing affection that we all felt through the lens. Madikwe Game Reserve, South Africa
Your impact this year
This year, you helped make a difference for Africa’s wildlife by supporting our conservation campaigns.
As pangolin-poaching season kicked off in the cooler winter months, you stepped up to help treat pangolins rescued from trafficking. Thank you for supporting our Save a Pangolin campaign. You helped provide treatment and rehabilitation for pangolins saved from poaching and taken for treatment at Provet Wildlife Services, just outside Greater Kruger.
You also helped save Africa’s free-roaming lion populations by supporting our Collar a Lion campaign. By donating to our conservation partner, the Southern Africa Conservation Trust, you raised funds to purchase GPS satellite collars to monitor lion populations and drive the conservation of wild lions.
Looking to 2024
Our 2024 resolution is again to uncover new, responsible safari options and fascinating stories for you – our tribe of passionate travelling conservationists. Thank you for helping us to deliver on that promise in 2023.
We’ll be back with your regular dose of African celebration next week.
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Happy festive season, tribe!
It’s time to relax with family and friends as we enjoy the last days of the year. It’s been a wonderful year for teamAG and hopefully for you as well. This week, instead of our usual newsletter fare, we share with you a brief celebratory video (click the video above). Our last newsletter for the year next week will feature our favourite stories from 2023.
Our safari experts will be on duty over the entire festive season in case you decide to start planning your next epic safari!
Sometimes the revealing facts we publish come at great personal risk and cost. Our information comes from a variety of sources – including from within governments, parastatals and specific industries committing the foul acts. As you know, governments and industries hate the negative publicity that evidence of incompetence, fraud and corruption brings. The disturbing article below about the rise (again) of elephant poaching in Botswana is a case in point.
To the heroes who risk all to help us shine a spotlight on the truth: I SALUTE YOU. A luta continua …
Meanwhile, back in my bushveld hometown, dinner is served! Recent rains have brought out the flying termites and everything with a mouth is feasting on these nutritious morsels. From frogs to scorpions and eagles to doves – they’re all tucking in. Good times!
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
The partnership between humans and honeyguides – birds who solicit the help of humans to break open bees’ nests – has long been known to science. The birds lead the human honey hunters to the bees, and then feast on the wax and bee larvae left after hunters have raided the nest. Scientists also discovered years ago that the birds and honey hunters evolve together, with humans developing calls to entice and summon the honeyguides when they have a hankering for honey.
But did you know that greater honeyguides learn the very specific dialects of their local honey hunters? It’s not the catchiness of the tunes that attracts the birds, but rather that they have learnt the traditions of their local humans.
A new study shows that “the birds recognise and respond to calls from their local area”. The call used by Yao honey hunters in Niassa Special Reserve in Mozambique, for example, is very different from the call used by the Hadza honey hunters in northern Tanzania. When scientists played the Mozambican calls to honeyguides in Tanzania, the birds were less likely to respond, and vice versa. The study shows that birds develop their own cultures, and humans and honeyguides sustain each other’s traditions in their specific locales.
If you’re longing to walk the bushveld and get in touch with these and other facts of nature, check out the guide we’ve put together on walking safaris. And don’t miss our story on increased elephant poaching in Botswana below.
Early bird special – Kafue explorer – From US$2,175pps
Visitors to Zambia’s vast Kafue National Park are treated to magnificent displays of Africa at its most spectacular. Explore this extraordinary wilderness – its waterways, floodplains and miombo woodlands – and encounter the park’s abundant wildlife along the way. Take advantage of this early bird special and you could be setting off for Zambia soon! Book before 31 March 2024 and save big on a safari of a lifetime.
Saving Africa’s wild lions
You can help save African lions! Africa’s free-roaming lions are under threat from human-wildlife conflict. These lions are an essential part of the continent’s ecosystems, its tourism industry, and its livelihood.
Thankfully, the Southern African Conservation Trust (SACT) and partners have embarked on a project to conserve lions. They require GPS satellite collars to develop lion management plans. They also provide an early warning system to local communities about the whereabouts of lions, allowing them to react quickly to potential problems and avoid human-lion conflict.
You can help to save these wild lions by making a contribution to the SACT through our Collar a Lion campaign.
Find out more about how you can help save free-roaming lions and what your sponsorship will include.
WATCH: A Kruger walking safari will show you wild Africa, at your own pace. Stroll along ancient animal trails, learn about the region’s fascinating flora, and come face-to-face with some of the region’s Big 5 residents (01:40) Click here to watch
These photos of elephant poaching incidents in Botswana were all taken recently
A recent spate of arrests of elephant poachers in Namibia has shone the light on an apparent increase in poaching of elephants in Botswana and led to questions surrounding the efficacy of anti-poaching systems in the region.
Africa Geographic is aware of at least four separate incidents within ten days this past month, where arrests were made in Namibia of poaching groups smuggling tusks. Seizures totalled up to at least 68 elephant tusks weighing almost a ton. Arrests occurred in Namibia’s Zambezi region, which borders Botswana and Zambia. Most tusks allegedly came from elephants recently poached in Botswana.
In one arrest operation, officials acted on information that the Zambezi region is being used as a transit route to smuggle the tusks of poached elephants from Botswana to Zambia.
In addition, Africa Geographic has learned that 25 carcasses of recently poached adult bull elephants have been identified in Botswana’s NG15 wildlife management area (Linyanti Reserve), south of the Savuti Channel, in October and November 2023. These carcasses showed signs of suspicious human activity: skulls had been chopped, tusks removed, and spinal cords cut. Another elephant carcass with tusks missing was seen in Chobe National Park. The age of these carcasses showed that they were poached between September and November this year.
“Over the last few years there have been several alleged cases involving poaching gangs from Zambia, some Namibians, and complicit Botswana enforcement personnel,” says Mary Rice, Executive Director of the Environmental Investigation Agency, “Most interdictions have taken place in Namibia, where it seems, the enforcement community are more effective – and proactive – in tackling the armed gangs involved; gangs who have moved through the Botswana landscape, laden down with firearms, expedition equipment and a massive haul of large tusks.”
Rice draws attention to the challenges of policing Botswana’s vast wilderness to intercept poaching incidents. “We know that poaching gangs have been exploiting the weak governance and enforcement of Botswana’s vast wilderness area for several years. Recent documented cases include significant rhino poaching incidents and interdictions of rhino horn. Still, with Botswana’s rhino population seriously depleted now, gangs are turning their sights increasingly to ivory,” says Rice.
With rhino poaching incidents in the region on the decline – most likely due to the depletion of rhino populations, poachers are seemingly turning to ivory to fill the gap.
Elephant poaching cases in Namibia are also on the increase. Spokesperson for Namibia’s Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism (MEFT) Romeo Muyunda said in a recent interview that “while we are winning the fight against the illegal killing of rhinos, elephant poaching is picking up.” When the interview was conducted at the end of November, Namibia had recorded eight cases of elephant poaching for 2023 to date, an increase from four cases reported in 2022. Myunda noted that elephants poached in 2023 were killed in the Kavango and Zambezi region communal areas.
An elephant with tusks removed and skull chopped
In 2018 and 2019, Africa Geographic reported on a spike in elephant poaching in Botswana, and it seems that a similar reoccurrence is brewing. But since 2019, little information has been published about elephant poaching in Botswana.
However, the 2022 KAZA Elephant Survey revealed that elephant carcasses made up an estimated 10.47% of the total population in the Kavango-Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area, which covers land in Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe. Fresh and recent carcasses (elephants that died in the 12 months prior to the survey) represented 0.51% (1,165 elephants) of the total estimate. The highest ratio of fresh and recent carcasses was observed in Botswana (962 carcasses – 0.72%). A concentration of fresh and recent carcasses was identified in the border region between Botswana and Namibia along the Kwando-Linyanti-Chobe River system.This is a cautionary signal of a possible negative population trend requiring further assessment. Following the release of the results, Darren Potgieter, KAZA Elephant Survey coordinator, said, “Factors such as ageing populations, improved sampling methodologies, environmental conditions, and poaching could all be at play here.”
The Environmental Investigation Agency database indicates that there have been 21 seizures of ivory linked to Botswana since 2017. Key countries linked to the illegal ivory trade in Botswana include Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe; Namibia and Zimbabwe (and Zambia) are transit countries for ivory sourced from Botswana involving Zambian nationals, according to Rice.
“Whilst there was a lull in illegal trade during Covid, large seizures are now being made again, which indicates an ongoing illegal trade. Nigeria has emerged, and has been confirmed, as the key exit point for ivory and other wildlife en route to Asia,” says Rice. “It is also a consolidation point for products sourced from the region – Gabon, DRC – but also from southern Africa.”
The current state of affairs and alleged lack of action to subvert poaching in Botswana has conservationists questioning the Botswana government’s stance.
“The poachers in Botswana seem to be able to pick and choose among the largest elephants in their area of operation… indicative that these poachers can take their time, travel around, follow elephant herds, camp out, select what they want,” said conservationist, Dr Pieter Kat, in a recent statement published on social media. “I am of the opinion that the poachers have established a collaborating network of people in Botswana facilitating poaching gunners, transporters, suppliers of food and other necessities to the ‘resident’ teams.”
Meanwhile, in South Africa, elephant poaching incidents are also on the increase. During the 2022-2023 financial year, Kruger National Park lost 32 elephants to poaching, compared to nine elephants poached in the previous year. SANParks, however, reported that this poaching was “driven largely by bushmeat, rather than ivory, demand.” One elephant was also poached in Mapungubwe National Park, which borders Botswana and Zimbabwe.
* AG contacted Boswana’s Department of Wildlife and National Parks for comment but received no response.
Africa, the untamed continent, beckons adventurers with its extraordinary wilderness spaces and unique wildlife. There are many ways to explore its wonders, but none is more immersive and intimate than what is offered on walking safaris. On foot, the sudden amplification of sound, smell, touch and adrenaline creates a profound sense of connection to nature that has been all but lost in our frenetic, modern lives.
Options for walking adventures when on an African safari vary. There’s something on offer for all adventurers: from a morning or afternoon stroll while staying at a lodge, to a fully fledged walking safari taking place over a few days, where you have the option to sleep out in basic tents. We’ve included various options below, covering the best of all there is on offer.
So, lace up a sturdy pair of walking shoes and prepare to ignite your wanderlust with our 11 favourite African walking safaris….
Often referred to as the home of walking safaris, Zambia’s Luangwa Valley is a playground for visitors seeking an authentic and unspoilt wilderness. Here, generations of expert guides have followed in the bootprints of Norman Carr to conserve the tradition of exceptional on-foot experiences. Stride over sandy riverbeds, navigate oxbow lakes and discover riverine forests, all the while observing the rich diversity of life (from dung beetles to elephants!) in Luangwa. Check out safaris in South Luangwa here.
Walking safaris in South Luangwa offer an authentic wilderness experience
Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe
Mana Pools National Park is one of Zimbabwe’s most breathtaking protected areas, known for its picturesque Zambezi River floodplains, ethereal Ana tree groves and abundant wildlife. From habituated packs of African wild dogs (painted wolves) and towering elephant bulls to massive herds of thirst-driven buffalo and the lions that stalk them, Mana is a land designed to be explored up close and personal. It is also one of the few national parks where travellers can walk without a guide. Zimbabwe is also home to some of the best (and, in some cases, eccentric) walking guides in Africa, and securing their services is guaranteed to bring out the best in your African safari. Check out our ready-made safaris in Mana Pools here.
Adventurous travellers will find in-your-face wildlife drama on a Mana Pools walking safari
Alternatively, if you are looking for a truly wild walking experience, where you’ll camp in a remote spot with limited facilities, and have daily encounters with wild animals, then Chitake Springs offers just the ticket. Chitake Springs is a remote area in the southern reaches of Mana Pools, away from the Zambezi River. The campsite, used for walking safaris, is based at the only available water source in this part of the park – a magnet for wildlife. Find out more about safaris to Chitake Springs here.
Enjoying an early morning coffee before the day’s adventures at Chitake SpringsHeading out for the day’s adventures at Chitake Springs
Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda
Trekking for mountain gorillas is a walking safari of a very different kind – one that many have described as a profound and spiritual experience. The fern-fringed, muddy paths of the fairy-tale Bwindi Impenetrable Forest are verdant and bursting with secret sounds. While finding the gorilla families may take several hours of hiking, the reward at the end is the chance to go eye-to-eye with our endangered and sentient relatives. Observe their intricate social interactions, marvel at their human expressions, and be moved by the simple presence of these extraordinary creatures. Browse our ready-made safaris to Bwindi here.
Traverse Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in search of mountain gorillas
Akagera National Park, Rwanda
Akagera National Park is Rwanda’s only Big 5 national park and, in recent years, has established itself as one of the premier African safari destinations. From papyrus-lined swamps to savannah woodlands, the park’s magnificent landscapes provide the perfect backdrop for superb wildlife sightings and birding. Check out our safaris to Akagera here.
Visit Africa’s largest protected wetland and explore Rwanda’s only Big-5 national park on a walking safari in Akagera
Okavango Delta, Botswana
The swampy oasis of the Okavango Delta in Botswana is undoubtedly one of the most extraordinary wildlife destinations in Africa, which, by extension, makes it one of the best places to traverse on foot. Marvel at the Delta’s labyrinthine channels and vast floodplains as you tread softly through the wilderness in the company of the highly skilled guides who know the secrets of this waterlogged paradise. Your walking safari will likely also involve time in a mokoro – gliding silently along the water channels as your expert poler reveals this water wonderland to you. We have several ready-made safaris to the Okavango Delta – see more here.
Tread lightly through the Delta to experience incredible wildlife on foot
Tsavo East and West National Parks, Kenya
The rugged beauty of the vast Tsavo landscape is filled with the ancient magic of true wilderness, and walking here is akin to escaping to a bygone era. This is a land of legends, where many of Africa’s largest remaining tuskers roam, their thick skins shaded rust by the region’s famous red soils. From open savannahs and massive river systems to lava fields and woodlands, experienced guides will lead you in the search for giant elephants, maneless lions, gerenuk, fringe-eared oryx and even critically endangered hirola antelope. See our ready-made safaris to Tsavo National Park here.
Follow in the footsteps of legendary tuskers in Tsavo
Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
The Serengeti is synonymous with Africa’s Great Wildebeest Migration – the Greatest Show on Earth. Still, few realise its vast plains can be explored on foot, granting unique privacy even in the busiest tourist months. Imagine embarking on a journey in the company of Maasai guides eager to share their intimate knowledge of their wilderness heritage. Witness the awe-inspiring landscapes, spot lions lazing under acacia trees, and feel the thrill of being surrounded by hundreds of thousands of wildebeest and zebras on one of Africa’s most immersive walking safaris. Peruse our safaris to the Serengeti here.
Just under 100km away, the diverse and wildlife-rich Ngorongoro Conservation Area also provides explorers an opportunity to walk in the largest unbroken caldera in the world, explore extinct volcanoes, and meet Maasai herders along the way
Walk across the vast Serengeti plains to get up close to the migration action
Gonarezhou National Park, Zimbabwe
Zimbabwe’s Gonarezhou National Park is perhaps one of the country’s best-kept African safari secrets but for an ardent following of experienced travellers drawn to the park’s remote and rugged appeal. The iconic Chilojo Cliffs are perhaps Gonarezhou’s most famous feature. However, the ancient baobabs, thriving elephant herds and jaw-dropping vistas all contribute to securing the park as an exceptional walking safari destination.
Exploring Gonarezhou’s land of red cliffs and elephants on foot is an immersive experience
Laikipia County, Kenya
The mantra of the private conservancy experience in Kenya is one of exclusivity and freedom, and nowhere is this better epitomised than the mosaic landscapes of Laikipia County. Here, the low-density, high-quality approach allows travellers to customise their experience in a truly unique manner. Going on at least one walk is a given. Still, the full experience can even include accompanying ecological teams into the field to aid in monitoring endangered species, tracking lions, or even walking with baboon troops. With each step, you become a part of this remarkable landscape, forging a meaningful connection with the wilderness and creating memories that will last a lifetime.
Enjoy true freedom and experience conservation up close in Laikipia
Greater Kruger, South Africa
The private reserves bordering South Africa’s world-famous Kruger National Park offer the chance to leave the confines of a vehicle behind and set out on foot, led by experienced trackers and armed rangers. Stroll along ancient animal trails, learn about the region’s fascinating flora, and come face-to-face with some of the region’s Big 5 residents. Check out our safaris to Greater Kruger here.
A walking safari in Kruger takes adventurers deep into the middle of Big-5 country
Skeleton Coast National Park, Namibia
In the desolate beauty of Namibia’s Skeleton Coast National Park, embark on a unique walking safari that combines rugged landscapes with fascinating wildlife encounters. Traverse the vast dunes and arid plains, where desert-adapted elephants roam, lions hunt in the shifting sands, and seals frolic along the coastline. This untamed wilderness showcases the astonishing resilience of life in the most extreme of environments. Check out spots to stay in and around the Skeleton Coast here.
Explore the land of endless dunes, desert lions and arid plains on foot along Namibia’s Skeleton Coast
And on that footnote
From the sweeping plains and savannahs to the remote reaches of the coastlines and dense forests, Africa’s walking safari destinations offer an intimate connection with nature that few other experiences can match. Whether you seek the thrill of encountering iconic wildlife, the tranquillity of walking through pristine landscapes, or the chance to recentre your soul, it’s time to open your senses to the wild beauty of Africa.
A rugged sleep out while on a walking safari in Akagera National Park
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Black leopard pics + malaria-free safaris + finding lost species
Yesterday, I booked our flights to the biodiversity treasure trove that is the jungles of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in Congo-Brazzaville. This is a bucket-list trip for me – seeking western lowland gorillas, forest elephants, bongos, dwarf crocodiles and huge flocks of grey parrots and green pigeons. I get all twitchy just thinking about it.
The cost and hassle of international travel got me considering why we all go on safari. African safaris are not just a voyage into the unknown; they are a call to action. They invite us to witness the intricate tapestry of life, urging us to protect it. In embracing nature’s raw beauty, there is a silent pact – a commitment to preserve habitats, respect ecosystems, and ensure the harmonious coexistence of every living creature. Your safari makes a difference at ground level for African conservation and local people living amongst wildlife.
Meanwhile, late last night, spotlight in hand, I escorted my two Jack Russels into the garden for their usual pre-snooze pee. The garden corner smelled strongly of fresh buttered popcorn – so I picked the lads up and took them back indoors. Do you know why I did this? The answer is in the footer of this newsletter*.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Did you knowthat a blind mole with super hearing, missing for 86 years and listed as one of the world’s Most Wanted Lost Species, has just been rediscovered along the western coast of South Africa?
It took the olfactory powers of a border collie, surveys of 300km of coastline and the novel use of environmental DNA sequencing to confirm that De Winton’s golden mole is not extinct. The mole almost never surfaces above ground, and “swims” through sand dunes in tunnels that are almost untraceable – except in rare cases when they surface to forage for insects at night.
By collecting 100 soil samples from underground tunnels and matching them to a lone museum specimen of the mole, teams from Endangered Wildlife Trust, Re:wild and the University of Pretoria confirmed the species. Since the discovery, four more populations of De Winton’s golden mole have been found. The discovery is an exciting step in the use of environmental DNA tracking – using the DNA shed from animals as they move through the environment – for finding lost species.
For a look into another rare and fascinating animal – a wild panther – check out Dan Peel’s story, with photos, on the incredible black leopard of Laikipia. And for those of you planning a January safari, be sure to use the helpful resource we’ve shared below, with all the tips you’ll need.
Art safari with Alison Nicholls – Madikwe Game Reserve, South Africa – 8days – from ZAR61,100 Experience the bushveld while unlocking your creativity as you join professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls on this art safari. Buffalo Ridge Safari Lodge in malaria-free Big 5 reserve, Madikwe, South Africa, will serve as your home base. Enjoy morning and afternoon game drives, attend daytime art workshops, and hone your wildlife-sketching skills in the best setting possible. Artists of all levels are welcome!
Special Offer: Save 15% at Kariega Main Lodge, Eastern Cape, South Africa
Kariega Game Reserve in the Eastern Cape, South Africa, offers excellent game-viewing and birding experiences in its diverse ecosystems. Take advantage of this special offer and save on your stay in this Big 5, malaria-free destination. Book a minimum three-night stay in 2024, and you’ll enjoy 15% off your booking. Valid for bookings 1 May–31 July 2024. Ts&Cs apply.
Safari report back – Botswana mobile safari
Jane Allin went on a mobile safari with us to Botswana, visiting Moremi Game Reserve, Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park. She also travelled to Kasane in Botswana, and to Hwange in Zimbabwe. Here’s what Jane had to say about her safari:
“Wow, what an incredible experience! A mobile safari is a great way to feel part of the environment and leave nothing but footprints. With no fences surrounding us, the animals were free to wander into our camp – which added extra excitement, especially when lions roared throughout the night VERY close to camp in Savute in Chobe. We had the best sightings I have ever had of leopards and wild dogs in Khwai. We also saw lions every day as well all as honey badgers, side-striped jackals, spotted hyenas and much more! Literally hundreds of elephants were the highlight in Chobe, many with tiny babies. The guides were great, the food excellent, the tents comfortable and camp was beautifully set up for us each evening.
We also spent two nights at Bakwena Lodge, Kasane – I cannot rate this place highly enough – and three nights at The Hide, Zimbabwe, which was truly spectacular!
This is the third trip I have done with AG and I highly recommend them. Every trip has been good value for money and impeccably organised. Thank you Christian. I will be back!”
WATCH: A rare sighting of Laikipia’s (Kenya) black leopard caught on film by Graham Boulnois. “We got glimpses of her as she approached. Suddenly she dove into a bush. There was a squeal and she emerged with a young dik-dik. Dik-diks are her favourite prey and she may take three each night.” (01:02) Click here to watch
Seeing a black leopard in the wild is an extraordinary feat. A wild encounter that dreams are made of. But tales of this magnificent creature reverberate from a small, wild county in Kenya. Dan Peel has spent hours with this rare black panther in Laikipia. He shares his story – and incredible photos – of this famous leopard.
Gazing out over the expansive vistas of Laikipia, a profound sense of tranquillity washes over me. A sudden chill in the air brushes against my face, descending from the snow-capped peaks of Mount Kenya in the distance. The sun falls rapidly towards the horizon in this part of the world; the rocky ridge I am sitting on in Laikipia Conservancy, Kenya, is just under 100km north of the equator. It’s the onset of the golden hour, my favourite time of day. Not only because the light throws a beautiful golden hue over everything it touches, but in this specific region, it signifies the leopard hour.
I watch the colossal storm clouds gather over the western horizon, above the scar traversing Africa – the Great Rift Valley. Emerging from the river below, a herd of elephants don their “black socks”, showing me they have been wading through the chilly, brown waters of the Ewaso Narok River. The scene exudes quintessential African charm; my thoughts wander, and I am in my happy place.
Suddenly, a single nasal whistle pierces the stillness, jolting me back to full alertness. Peering down the valley beneath, I hear another whistle, the distinctive alarm call of the dik-dik, a small knee-high antelope that thrives in this region.
This is precisely what I’ve been waiting for – an alarm call, the most dependable way to locate leopards in Laikipia. Scanning the valley below, the river, the luggas (Swahili for gullies), and the dark rocky outcrops. Inspecting every bush meticulously, I strain my eyes until they water, momentarily lowering my binoculars before resuming my search. I’m determined to pinpoint the dik-diks responsible for the call and, hopefully, the reason for their distress. A quick movement catches my eye, a mysterious shift in the scenery I can’t see. My entire focus narrows onto the specific bush that drew my attention. I hold my gaze there, unable to identify anything unusual. But still, I wait; I have been sitting on this ridge all afternoon waiting for this exact moment. In an instant, the dik-dik alarms intensify. In this area, I know what that means. There is a leopard on the move. Now to find it.
Taking a pensive cat pose
The dark basalt rocks beneath the bush begin to move – a moving shadow. Immediately, the shape takes form. And there she is, as if she was never in hiding, strolling out of the trees into the open. The dik-diks redouble their efforts to let the world know there is danger lurking. But they are not even given a momentary glance.
Holding her tail high in the classic arch of a leopard at ease, she glides across the open ground down towards the river – pure grace and beauty held like a coiled spring of unfathomable power. There is no animal, in my opinion, that commands as much respect.
The black leopard’s rosettes are visible in the sunlight
But this is no ordinary leopard; this is a black leopard. A rare genetic variety, this black leopard calls Laikipia home. In fact, Laikipia is home to the largest known population of black leopards. This is an animal that I had previously only ever dreamt about, a mythical creature that was beyond any chance of sighting.
This individual, I know well. This is Giza, the black leopard of Laikipia. I have been privileged enough to spend the last two years of my life following her, photographing her, watching and learning from her incredible journey from a playful cub into a lethal huntress.
My experience in the African bush started as a young boy growing up on a wildlife farm in Zimbabwe. I had always been fascinated by everything natural. But above all, leopards held my interest. Something about their enigmatic presence, piercing eyes, and ability to unleash unbelievable power or just as quickly slink into the bush without a trace.
Backlit while on the night prowl
Throughout my decade and a half of guiding, I had heard whispers of the existence of black leopards in Africa. Still, there was never enough to hold faith in – rumours of a fleeting glimpse or an unidentifiable blurry camera-trap photo. It was not until my career took me to Laikipia that these rumours became more credible. More than a myth, these were real animals, rare and elusive, but real.
A culmination of incredibly fortunate events led us to become acquainted with Giza Mrembo – which is the full name we at Laikipia Wilderness Camp gave her. Meaning ‘the beautiful darkness’ in Swahili, it is a name that she lived up to in the next two years we got to know her.
In early 2022, the drought had ravished this part of Kenya. Many plains game species moved large distances in search of even the smallest patch of grazing, or perished in their efforts. This mass devastation was hard to watch, but it did bring about a unique situation. In times like this, predators thrive – on a seemingly unlimited supply of meat – and their numbers grow. Amid this chaos, Giza’s mother, a regular golden spotty leopard, introduced us to her one-year-old cub, Giza. And so this incredible journey began.
A side profile portrait of Giza
When we first crossed paths with Giza, she was a young leopard, still heavily reliant on her mother. She and her mother had been feasting on one of the unfortunate casualties of the drought. My initial encounter with her was a mix of excitement and deep emotion, a feeling impossible to put into words adequately. I had dreamt of encountering such an animal since I was a young boy.
Initially, she allowed only a brief glimpse, but over time, she grew bolder. Taking cues from her mother, she appeared at ease in our presence.
Giza’s life has been difficult, marked by close bonds and formidable challenges. Following in her mother’s footsteps, she has evolved into a skilled huntress, albeit with a unique technique. Her jet-black coat, advantageous in dense forests, or under thick undergrowth or moonless nights, offers little camouflage in the rugged acacia shrubland of this African region.
Leopards are renowned masters of camouflage, but Giza has never been one to blend in; she seems to have never grasped the concept. Her hunting strategy revolves around covering as much ground as possible, relying on surprise rather than stealth. She moves swiftly from one bush to another, hoping to catch a dik-dik off guard and pounce before it can successfully escape. She has skillfully harnessed the dense population of dik-diks to her advantage.
The black leopard’s coat provides little camouflage in Laikipia’s landscape
With such an efficient hunting technique, her prowess did not go unnoticed. After numerous nights of observing this, the resident male leopard in the area figured out that he could secure a free meal nearly every night by following Giza. His size and strength left poor Giza no chance, and the persistent male became an increasing problem for her. Losing almost every kill she made dealt a devastating blow, causing her condition to deteriorate. As challenging as it was to witness, it was nature’s way, and I had to let it unfold.
Marking her territory
After a few months of this struggle, Giza was visibly ailing. Her ribs and spine were showing. She devised a solution to her predicament as a tribute to her undeniable tenacity. She didn’t choose to challenge her male competitor because she couldn’t, or to abandon her territory in an area already teeming with leopards. Instead, her answer was to become an even more proficient hunter, and so she did. Almost overnight, she began killing two dik-diks each night, the first presented reluctantly as a peace offering to appease the male and the second to sustain herself.
The undeniable adaptability and resilience of Giza, the black leopard, is awe-inspiring. Beyond her breathtaking beauty, her presence and energy set her apart from any other leopard I have had the privilege of encountering.
Dan Peel is a professional safari guide. His book, Moving Shadows, offers a captivating collection of photographs capturing the story of ‘Giza Mrembo’, a black leopard of Laikipia.
Through a blend of vivid photographs and compelling narratives, the book follows Giza’s extraordinary evolution from a curious cub to a powerful huntress.
Amidst the harsh realities of the African wilderness, Giza learns to navigate her environment with skill and finesse, utilising the cover of darkness and moonless nights to her advantage.
Tanzania is an extraordinary country, replete with an abundance of mesmerising natural marvels and magnificent cultural nuances. It is an essential bucket-list destination for safari enthusiasts and wildlife lovers. Of course, in an ideal world, these visitors would have boundless time and money to explore the country at leisure, but this is not a realistic option for most. For many, a trip across the world to visit Tanzania’s majesty may be a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Tanzania is traditionally divided into “safari circuits” to ensure that travellers make the most of their special journey.
These circuits divide Tanzania into the four corners of the compass and consist of an itinerary of destinations designed to minimise travelling time and maximise the experience. Tanzania is a diverse country, so each circuit offers its own unique magic, divergent scenery, and appealing wildlife encounters. The northern, southern, western, and eastern circuits encompass a selection of national parks, reserves, conservation areas and even, in the case of the eastern circuit, islands and beaches, that visitors can choose based on their interests.
Tanzania’s northern circuit
The northern circuit is unequivocally the most popular circuit on this list and includes destinations that are the stuff of safari, travel and film-making legend. For first-time visitors who only plan to visit Tanzania, this is almost unfailingly the place to start. It involves some of the best roads in Tanzania, so every destination is easily and (relatively) quickly accessible, and there are countless accommodation options available for every budget, from basic campsites to some of the most luxurious lodges in Africa.
The northern circuit stretches from Lake Victoria in the west to Mount Kilimanjaro in the east, and it is bounded by the Kenyan border to the north and Tarangire National Park to the south. It includes such iconic names as the Serengeti and Ngorongoro, and, naturally, more time should be devoted to exploring these areas than others.
Serengeti National Park
Serengeti National Park is a land synonymous with the very essence of an African safari, where the majesty of the scenery and expansive atmosphere is matched by extraordinary wildlife viewing. Here, sweeping grass plains, rocky outcrops and woodlands support myriad animal species, all engaged in a primordial battle for survival.
A typical sighting in Serengeti National Park. To see more pics from Alexander Ley, check out his profile here
Naturally, the Serengeti ecosystem is most famous for its role in the Great Migration – the largest overland migration on earth. In fact, most of the year, the wildebeest herds move through the Serengeti before passing the international boundary into the Maasai Mara. No words can fully capture the dazzling feeling of sitting in amongst hundreds of thousands of animals that stretch as far as the eye can see or throw themselves helter-skelter at the mercy of the river crossings. However spectacular though it may be, the Serengeti is about more than the migration. The Big 5 are all present, and encounters with big cats and hyenas are all but guaranteed, viewed against the backdrop of breathtaking scenery.
The Serengeti ecosystem also incorporates several surrounding reserves and game control areas, all contiguous with the national park. These include Grumeti Controlled Area, Ikorongo Controlled Area, Loliondo Game Controlled Area and Maswa Game Reserve. The national park is also open to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area described below.
Ngorongoro Conservation Area
Ngorongoro Conservation Area is often described as Africa’s Eden, with its most prominent feature being the Ngorongoro Crater. This ancient volcanic caldera encircles one of the most biodiverse and precious wild spaces in Africa, giving the impression that time stood still at the centre of the massive geological cradle. Here, many of Africa’s most iconic animals (including the Big 5) thrive, and every year, Lake Magadi flushes pink as hundreds of flamingos arrive during the breeding season.
An elephant grazes at the bottom of the crater
Outside the crater, the Ndutu region of Ngorongoro serves as a critical resting point in the Great Migration, as over a million wildebeest arrive on the short grass plains to calve. At the height of the chaos, over 8,000 calves are born each day, forced to find their feet quickly or be lost to the predators that throw themselves into the wildebeest melee with joyous abandon.
The steep-sided ravine of Olduvai (or, more correctly, Oldupai) Gorge is another of Ngorongoro’s significant attractions, having yielded a timeline of our evolution as a species. The scattered fossils, tools and bone fragments reveal the gradual development of societies and social complexities that today define Homo sapiens.
Lake Manyara National Park
Lake Manyara National Park is named for the eponymous lake along its eastern edge, with the remainder of the park sandwiched between the lake and the dramatic hills of the Great Rift escarpment to the west. Known for its spectacular displays of flamingos and other water birds, Manyara is lowkey and less frenetic than the extravaganza of Serengeti or Ngorongoro. This makes it ideal as a perfect launchpad for exploring the northern circuit of Tanzania.
Lake Manyara is the perfect destination to start your Tanzania circuit
Tarangire National Park
Not far from Lake Manyara, Tarangire National Park is the southernmost park in the northern circuit. It is a land of giant baobabs, fever tree forests, shimmering swamps and sweeping vistas – unequivocally one of Africa’s most underrated African safari destinations, bursting with abundant wildlife. It is also an essential landscape for one of the lesser-known migrations in Tanzania because, during the dry season, the Tarangire River becomes one of the only available water sources. Tens of thousands of animals are drawn to its banks and floodplains from miles in every direction.
Don’t get too close! Spotting elephants on a guided walk
Mount Kilimanjaro
As Africa’s highest mountain, Mount Kilimanjaro needs little by way of introduction, as every year, thousands of amateur and expert hikers set out to summit its peak. Its snow-capped summit stands out incongruously against the flat Rift Valley scenery below, and even those reluctant to don hiking boots should be content to gaze upon this African legend from its base.
An iconic shot of Mount Kilimanjaro, photographed from Amboseli
Arusha National Park and Mount Meru
The city of Arusha acts as the gateway to the northern circuit, meaning that Arusha National Park is usually the first or the last stop for travellers navigating the route. Within the park, the dormant volcano of Mount Meru is occasionally referred to as the “little brother” of Mount Kilimanjaro. It offers a much quieter and more intimate experience, along with spectacular wildlife encounters en route to the summit.
Mount Meru is Kilimanjaro’s “little brother”
Tanzania’s southern circuit
In contrast to the bustling northern circuit, Tanzania’s southern safari circuit is remote and wild, characterised by a feeling of absolute immersion without ever skimping on East Africa’s famous hospitality standards. This region is famed for its back-to-basics and authentic approach, where exploring on foot is an essential part of the experience and you can go for days without encountering another tourist. Much of this region is relatively arid compared to the luscious plains of the north but still incorporates areas with thriving swamps, verdant forests and spectacular waterfalls.
Ruaha National Park
Ruaha National Park is a gem of the southern circuit, an enormous and untamed semi-arid wilderness, divided by live-giving river systems and dotted with the pyknic forms of ancient baobabs. The rugged park supports high densities of herbivores (including sizeable herds of elephants) and one of the largest lion populations on the continent. Leopard, cheetah, spotted hyena and African wild dog (painted wolf) sightings are frequent, and some lucky visitors have even managed to spot one of the park’s elusive striped hyenas.
A matriarch leads the herd to water in Ruaha
The protection of the greater Ruaha ecosystem is extended by the contiguous Rungwa, Kizigo, Usangu and Muhezi game reserves, all offering their own African safari experiences.
Nyerere National Park/Selous Game Reserve
The newly declared Nyerere National Park now extends over three sides of the Rufiji River valley, carved from the former Selous Game Reserve. The Rufiji River dominates the landscape, fanning into an intricate network of channels, oxbow lakes, and swamps, supplying a never-ending parade of thirsty animals drawn to the water’s edge. Though the declaration of the national park is intended to boost Nyerere’s tourism potential, there is no question that this remains something of a forgotten corner of Africa, where wildlife connoisseurs can lose themselves in the vast wilderness.
Wildlife viewing in Nyerere and Selous is exquisite
Mikumi National Park
Mikumi National Park lies adjacent to the northern border of Nyerere National Park and is easily accessible from Dar Es Salaam, making it a popular choice for local tourists. However, few international guests have yet to discover the splendour of Mikume’s expansive floodplains and prolific animal sightings.
The giants of Mikumi
Udzungwa Mountains National Park
Despite its proximity to the western edge of Nyerere National Park, the misty forests and picturesque, tumbling waterfalls of Udzungwa Mountains National Park make it seem worlds apart. These mountains are a biodiversity hotspot characterised by mind-boggling levels of endemism, with species including the Iringa red colobus, the Sanje crested mangabey, the Udzungwa partridge and the rufous-winged sunbird.
A mangabey spotted in Udzungwa
Tanzania’s western circuit
Unlike the northern and southern safari circuits, Tanzania’s western circuit breaks away somewhat from the more traditional safari fare. This is a shorter and more specialised circuit and should be combined with aspects from the northern or southern circuit if time and resources allow.
Gombe Stream National Park
Situated on the northeastern shores of Lake Tanganyika, the tiny Gombe Stream National Park is one of only a few places in Tanzania where chimpanzees can be encountered in the wild. This intimate park sports exceptional biodiversity and is celebrated as the park where Jane Goodall first set up her now-famous research centre. Here, visitors can follow expert guides into the heart of the forest in search of our chimpanzee kin, admiring the many other primate species along the way.
A chimpanzee greets the setting sun in Gombe Stream
Mahale National Park
Also situated on the banks of Lake Tanganyika, Mahale National Park is substantially larger than Gombe, extending over the craggy Mahale Mountains and across rolling hills to the east. The forested western slopes are home to a substantial population of chimpanzees, with many families being the subjects of scientific study for over 50 years. And how better to celebrate a successful (and exhausting) day spent trekking for chimps than diving into the cool embrace of Lake Tanganyika’s crystal waters or lounging on its beaches, cocktail in hand?
Picturesque Lake Tanganyika
Katavi National Park
Katavi National Park is one of Tanzania’s most electrifying African safari destinations, ruled by the cadence of the rainy season. During the late dry season, the park swelters beneath a merciless sun and its residents are forced to compete for access to the remaining water in a dramatic battle for survival. Visitors who venture here off the beaten safari track are rewarded with a natural African nirvana that they can enjoy all to themselves.
Elephants of Katavi
Tanzania’s eastern/coastal circuit
With all the excitement of an African safari, complete with early mornings, dusty roads and adrenaline-inducing sightings, it is well worth taking a few days to collect one’s emotions before returning home from Tanzania. And where better to do that than on one of the country’s paradise tropical beaches? Though the mainland offers some beautiful spots to soak in the sun, the islands off-shore provide the best seaside escapes.
Zanzibar Island
Zanzibar is the largest and most popular of Tanzania’s islands, renowned as a honeymoon destination and beach paradise. From dazzling beaches to the vibrant cultural hub of Stone Town, Zanzibar is an accessible and relatively affordable island Utopia.
The island paradise of Zanzibar
Mafia Island
Less crowded and more exclusive than Zanzibar, Mafia Island offers the perfect place to soak up the resplendent marine scenery, including snorkelling, diving with whale sharks, and even watching hundreds of turtle hatchlings make their perilous first journey to the sea.
Mafia Island is a beach haven away from the crowds
Pemba Island
Like Mafia Island, Pemba Island is quieter than Zanzibar, removed from the trappings of mass tourism. Its fertile soils support rolling hills covered with fruit-laden coconut, banana and cassava trees. The warm waters surrounding it are famous for their exceptional diving and snorkelling opportunities.
Dolphin spotting off Pemba Island
Final thoughts
No matter the safari circuit, Tanzania is a country that consistently delivers excitement and copious natural wonders to its fortunate visitors.
In recent years, studies have shown that riverine rabbits frequent areas far outside of the riverine habitats thought to be their main domain. But why has it taken so long to discover additional populations outside of the riverine habitats of the Nama-Karoo? What technologies have helped study their behaviour, and how can new methods of study impact conservation of the species? Christy Bragg explains how methods of gathering significant information about the species has changed over the years.
Riverine rabbits. With a name like that, one would expect these creatures to live near rivers, and up until a few years ago, they were indeed considered to be riverine-habitat specialists. This species was believed to be restricted to the shrubby alluvial floodplains of the rivers in the Nama-Karoo in South Africa. But then, someone pulled the rabbit out of the hat: a riverine rabbit was spotted in renosterveld vegetation (a vegetation type of the Cape Floristic Region), in the southern Cape, on a hillslope. It has since been spotted in many other habitat types, including succulent-Karoo plains in the southern Cape. Indeed, its scientific name, Bunolagus monticularis, gives us a clue about the different places it likes to live. “Monticularis” means mountainous. And these rabbits have since been found to frequent mountainous areas – and not just flat river plains.
What do we know about the riverine rabbit?
But what has caused the delay in discovering populations outside of the riverine areas of the Nama-Karoo? Firstly, the riverine rabbit is not easy to study. They are nocturnal, shy and, in the dark, resemble hares (such as the scrub hare and Cape hare). Secondly, studies done in the Nama-Karoo in the 1980s showed that the population might be declining due to the conversion of natural riverine habitat to agricultural lands. And thirdly, because they were not expected to be found outside the Karoo floodplains; searches for them outside this habitat have been limited.
Despite this, they have been recorded in the Touws River region in the southern Cape. Subsequently, they have been spotted in and around Anysberg Nature Reserve, a provincial reserve near Laingsburg (also in the southern Cape), and near Baviaanskloof in the Eastern Cape. Rabbit roadkill later alerted the conservation authorities to the presence of riverine rabbits near Uniondale, also in the southern Cape. Today, there’s another way to detect riverine rabbits: camera traps have significantly contributed to our understanding of this species’ ecology and distribution in recent years.
Surveying sensitive species
Through camera trap surveillance, the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT), has bolstered conservation efforts for the critically endangered riverine rabbit – having positioned at least a hundred camera traps in varying habitats to monitor the rabbits.
Before using camera traps, surveys for riverine rabbits were an intensive undertaking, where ten or more humans would walk through the habitat over several days, shouting and calling, hoping to flush a rabbit. But one camera trap in the hand is worth ten humans in the bush because a camera trap works 24/7. Now, using motion detection, these cameras are triggered to capture images of the rabbits in various habitats – providing invaluable insight into their secret lives.
Camera traps are the quiet, accurate observers in the habitat, scanning far more significant areas over more extended periods than walking-line surveys could ever accomplish.
Several camera trap studies have shown that the riverine rabbit is crepuscular, not purely nocturnal. This means they are more active during the dawn (early mornings) and dusk (late evenings). Some preliminary research also showed that rabbits and hares do not share habitat. This whet the interest of Dr Zoe Woodgate, from the University of Cape Town, who completed her doctorate on this fascinating rabbit. Woodgate wanted to know more about what determines the more peculiar habitat choices of the riverine rabbit, so she conducted her fieldwork in the Sanbona Wildlife Reserve, a private game reserve in the Western Cape.
A riverine rabbit captured by camera trap in Sanbona Wildlife Reserve
Woodgate set up 150 cameras in 30 sites across the southern half of the reserve. This included setting up clusters of five cameras at each of the 30 sites to maximise detection of the species. Each group was spread over 15ha, and cameras were left out in the field for 45 days. She also measured some environmental factors, such as terrain ruggedness, site degradation (due to agricultural activities before the establishment of the reserve), and how close to drainage lines the rabbits occurred.
The results were intriguing. Firstly, she found that the territories of rabbits and hares did not overlap at all. Both hares and riverine rabbits had similar activity patterns, but although they were out and about at the same time of night, they did not live in the same places – likely due to the fact that they competed with one another.
The data also showed that the riverine rabbits were not closely associated with rivers. Woodgate’s model showed that rabbits are more affected by the presence of their competitors, the hares, than by rivers. She also noted that hares would choose living in less suitable terrain over sharing habitat with rabbits. Both hares and rabbits prefer level, rolling plains, but hares would choose less preferable terrain in areas where they co-occurred with rabbits. But what can be concluded from this? Do rabbits displace hares, or do hares outcompete rabbits?
There are mixed views. Some experts believe the hares are bigger and nastier and perhaps ‘bully’ rabbits out of their habitat. Some believe rabbits are the quiet kings of their habitat and displace hares to less preferable habitats. Only time and more research will tell.
Cameras, riverine rabbit conservation and wind farms
Camera traps are a critical component in the conservation toolbox. By setting up camera traps in more ‘unusual’ habitats, several new populations of riverine rabbits have been found, and more are expected to be discovered. Conservationists work with farmers and landowners to protect properties that host riverine rabbits under biodiversity stewardship or custodianship. These stewardships recognise landowners as the custodians of biodiversity on their land. And by protecting species such as riverine rabbits, their habitats are also protected – conserving many other plants and animals.
As South Africa increases its renewable energy supply, wind farm development proliferates in the Karoo. Camera traps have proven extremely useful for detecting whether this species occurs in proposed development areas. If firm evidence (from a camera trap) shows that a riverine rabbit is in the area, adequate mitigation measures can be implemented to protect the rabbit and its habitat. For example, turbines can be located a suitable distance from the rabbit’s habitat, and corridors can be developed to ensure its safe and secure movement through the landscape. However, more research is needed on how this species is affected by renewable energy development. For example, the jury is still out on whether the turbines’ noise impacts rabbit behaviour.
Roll on, riverine rabbit
Searching for the riverine rabbit is like a giant Easter bunny hunt, with more and more bunnies being discovered in unexpected hiding places every year. So, if you are ever exploring the rolling hills of the Cape provinces, near Loxton, Sutherland, Montagu, Touws River, Barrydale or even Worcester and Robertson, keep your eyes peeled for this Easter bunny. If you spot a rabbit-like creature, how will you know it’s a riverine rabbit and not a hare? The riverine rabbit has a telltale moustache, a dark black line on its chin, big, satellite-dish ears and hairy bunny-slipper feet. Also, watch for their fluffy tails, resembling a big brown powder puff (whereas the hares have scrawny, black-and-white tails). If you spot one, consider yourself lucky, as they are shy and secretive, and few people have had the privilege of seeing them in the wild.
References
Duthie, A.G. (1989), “Ecology of the Riverine Rabbit Bunolagus monticularis.” MSc dissertation, University of Pretoria, Pretoria.
Woodgate, Z., Distiller, G. and O’Riain, M.J. (2021). “Hare today, gone tomorrow: the role of interspecific competition in shaping riverine rabbit occurrence”. Endangered Species Research, 44 pp. 351-361.
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Use it or lose it + mongoose violence & other stories
‘Use it or lose it’ they chant from the sidelines – axes, guns and bulldozers at hand…
There is huge expectation in Africa that the remaining wild areas provide a variety of benefits for expanding local and regional human populations, IN ADDITION to high-level ecosystem services such as clean air, filtered water and sociocultural heritage.
Indeed many agitators draw hard lines in the sand, suggesting that these wild areas should be turned into something more immediately useful – such as timber, meat and farmland. That local communities need to benefit financially and culturally is non-negotiable, clear and obvious BUT how far can we push ecosystems to deliver to increasing demands and expectations?
Those of us in the wildlife industries are focussed on SUSTAINABLY utilising these precious remaining wild areas, and juggling many balls to ensure that local communities, wildlife and ecosystems benefit for the foreseeable future.
The photo safari industry has its challenges – including high capital setup costs, concession fees and staff overheads and a lengthy cashflow breakeven phase. And seasonality means months of no/low occupancies and losses. Also, the photo safari industry enjoys lower margins (and political support) than competing extractive industries such as mining, trophy hunting and hardwood extraction.
And yet teamAG would not consider any other vocation! This is our calling and our passion :-). Thanks for your safari bookings, donations to 3rd party campaigns and engagement with our stories – you fuel us to do what we do!
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Did you wake up and choose violence today? If you’re a female banded mongoose, the answer is probably yes. Banded mongooses – extremely social animals living in groups – are known for successful cooperative living. They forage, sleep, and defend and raise their offspring together.
But a study from a few years ago found that female banded mongooses will lead their rabbles into deliberate conflict with rival groups to increase their chances of mating with unrelated individuals. The females do this when they are in estrus – and the males of their group are grossly preoccupied with protecting their females. They use this state of distraction to incite violence with competitors and, during the chaos and confusion, mate with males from the newcomers. The sense of community is strong, but harmony – not so much…
Are you starting to plan your next December holiday? We have all the tips you need below. Plus, hamerkop’s nests are the largest bird nests (created by individual birds) in the world – but they aren’t the only ones using them! Read our second story for more.
Start planning your 2024 African experience now. How about a cultural extravaganza to Ethiopia or whale watching from a stylish beach lodge in South Africa? Reach out to our travel team today!
Ethiopia – Cradle of Humankind – 8 days/7 nights – from US$2,360pps
This historic tour takes you on a journey to discover churches hewn from rock, World Heritage Sites, castles, ancient tombs, art, and archaeological artefacts. You’ll enjoy historical city sites, boat trips to see monasteries, Ethiopian cuisine and traditional entertainment.
Special offer: Morukuru Beach Lodge, South Africa
Longing for beachside bliss? Take advantage of this special offer at Morukuru Beach Lodge in De Hoop Nature Reserve – in the heart of South Africa’s whale-watching region. Book your stay during whale season and take advantage of this stay 3, pay 2 special from 1 July – 12 September 2024
Safari report back – Chitake Springs
Brenda Hobday travelled with AG to Chitake Springs in Mana Pools NP, Zimbabwe, for a photographic safari. Here’s her 5-star review about her time on safari!
“Africa Geographic arranged the most amazing photographic trip to Chitake Springs. Most memorable was the buffalo stampeding into the springs: experiencing the build up as we realised we were between the buffalo and the springs, wondering which shute they might choose, and then witnessing the charge down to the springs. This was closely followed by the back-lit baboons and the Lilian’s lovebirds drinking (and finding out later that the lions were watching us as we crawled the river bed while trying to capture water-level photos…). Definitely one for the top of the bucket list!”
WATCH: A ban on poaching has positively impacted the wildlife of Zakouma National Park, Chad. No elephants in the park have been poached since 2016. Actress and environmental activist Shailene Woodley travels to Zakouma to learn how rangers from African Parks work with locals to protect the land and help it thrive (2:49). Click here to watch
The hamerkop nest is an engineering work of astonishing proportions. Breeding pairs of these medium-sized wading birds spend months meticulously placing carefully selected sticks to create one of the largest nests of any individual bird in the world. However, not every bird species is as diligent when it comes to nest building, and sometimes, it is more energy-efficient to take advantage of the hard work of others. Scientists from the University of KwaZulu-Natal in South Africa have trawled through existing research and combined this with observational research to determine which species use hamerkop nests for breeding purposes.
In all fairness to the somewhat cheeky nest usurpers, building a nest is an activity that demands considerable investment in time and energy. Like cuckoos outsourcing chick rearing, opting for the easy route and avoiding construction fuss where possible is a sensible breeding strategy. And in nest terms, a hamerkop nest is positively palatial. These twig structures may measure over 1.5 metres in diameter, weigh over 50kgs, and can include 8,000 sticks. They include a sizeable internal chamber where chicks can be raised to fledging in relative luxury. It should come as no surprise that these structures offer appealing housing alternatives to other species. This is even more true because some hamerkop pairs are what researchers have termed “compulsive” nest builders and may construct and then abandon several nests every year.
A hamerkop nest in Kruger National Park
So which birds have learned to adopt the natural version of possession being nine-tenths of the law? Using data from 18 different African countries, the authors found 251 reports of 20 bird species utilising hamerkop nests. Six of these – barn owls, knob-billed ducks, Egyptian geese, Dickinson’s kestrel and Verreaux’s eagle-owls – actively kicked the hamerkop pairs out of their nests. Knob-billed and African black ducks, Egyptian and African pygmy geese, Dickinson’s and grey kestrels, barn and Pel’s fishing owls and Verreaux’s eagle-owls were all found to utilise the inner chamber.
In contrast, spur-winged geese, several stork species, hooded vultures, martial eagles, and spotted eagle-owls were only observed using the top of the hamerkop nest. In some cases, the hamerkop pairs continued to occupy the inside of the nest while other species settled on the roof.
Knob-billed ducks and Verreaux’s eagle-owls actively kick hamerkop pairs out of their nests
Most of the identified species can and do make nests of their own, suggesting that their use of hamerkop nests is mainly opportunistic. However, the barn owl – which was by far the most commonly reported species – does not make a nest at all and appears to be heavily reliant on hamerkop nests in some areas. There is a possibility that grey kestrels may also exclusively breed in hamerkop nests. The authors also emphasise that the list of species using these nests will likely be far more extensive than those identified in this paper. As such, they suggest that further in-depth field studies could be highly worthwhile.
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Fragile lion kingdoms + South African safari
As you read this, we are in Zambia’s Liuwa Plain National Park documenting the soon-to-be-launched Liuwa Camp. This awesome tented safari lodge is tucked away on a floodplain island under a shady canopy of tall trees. Every year at around this time the rains transform the landscape – sand lilies pop up like fireworks explosions, countless waterfowl arrive and Africa’s 2nd largest wildebeest migration takes place amidst a growing population of lions, hyenas, cheetahs and painted wolves.
This is the erstwhile home of that iconic lioness Lady Liuwa – who I was fortunate to spend time with shortly before her death at the venerable age of 17. Lady Liuwa founded what is now a healthy population of lions. Her story echoes the rise of Liuwa Plain NP, under the management of African Parks, as a conservation success story and wilderness destination for those looking beyond the Big 5 and rim-flow pools. Watch this space for more about Liuwa Camp and the community that will benefit directly from your visit.
Speaking of lions, thanks to those who have matched teamAG by sponsoring a research collar to help reduce incidents of human-lion conflict – and those who have donated (no amount too small). I know that many CEOs, team leaders, decision-makers and other inspirational people read our newsletter – join us in making a difference? This is a vital project if we wish to keep dispersing lions safe from the ultimate predator.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Does a starfish have a head? Scientists have for many decades been perplexed by the question of what comprises the head of a starfish. With their five identical arms, how can we tell which is the front, the back, the top, or the tail? One popular conclusion has been that the starfish does not have a head at all.
But a study has just found that the opposite is actually true. While analysing the gene signatures of juvenile sea stars, researchers found that those associated with head development could be found all over the bodies of the starfish, while genes that usually code for an animal’s torso and tail were missing. In short, starfish have evolved to lose their bodies, developing over time into nothing but hunting, crawling heads!
This week, we’re exploring the fragile kingdoms of Africa’s lions in our first story. In our second story, we’ve put together the ultimate guide to your next safari to South Africa – complete with a selection of ready-made safaris. See below.
Story 2 https://africageographic.com/travel/places/south-africa
SOUTH AFRICAN SAFARI
A safari in South Africa offers the world in one country – from the Big 5 & lodges of Greater Kruger to the fine dining & pizazz of Cape Town
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Fancy a mobile safari in Botswana? Book now and you’ll save big time. Or plan that incredible beachfront holiday to KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. Read on, and reach out to our travel team now!
EARLY-BIRD SPECIAL – Botswana classic: fully catered mobile safari – $5,990pp (save 10%) – 10 nights
Explore all of northern Botswana during prime season on a fully catered mobile safari. Beginning in Kasane and ending in Maun, and led by experienced guides, you’ll track big cats and wild dogs, and meander along the Chobe River. Book this authentic Botswana safari experience today and don’t miss out on the early-bird special, high-season rate of US$5,990pp, valid for 7–17 July 2024.
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Book your stay for 2024 and take advantage of this Stay 4 pay 3 or Stay 3 pay 2 special offer. The Oyster Box’s lavish interior spaces are adorned with attractive original artwork and unique furnishings, and the beautiful tropical gardens create an oasis of tranquillity against the backdrop of the Indian Ocean. Special valid 14 Jan–12 Dec 2024 (excluding block out dates). Specific room types apply.
Collar a lion
You can help save free-roaming lions by taking part in our Collar a Lion campaign.
Why are GPS collars important for lion conservation?
Collars help researchers study the effects that fences have on spatial & social behaviours of wild lions.
They allow the monitoring and tracking of lion prides and their natural movement between protected areas and on park boundaries.
Collars provide an early-warning system to protect local villages from lions, safeguarding their cattle and aiding in wildlife management.
Become a lion warrior by sponsoring a collar. You will be making an essential impact on the preservation of future lion populations. Read more about how to contribute here.
WATCH: Wouldn’t you rather be on safari? Let Africa Geographic take you there. Check out these epic safari moments to inspire. Choose from our carefully curated safari packages or customise your own adventure with our travel team. Why wait? Start planning your perfect trip now! (0:45). Click here to watch
The African lion is an iconic symbol of Africa, associated with strength and majesty. In reality, the kingdom of the lion is under pressure. In a recent study, researchers have given us greater insight into what is causing concern for the remaining populations of the African lion.
Paws for thought
The African lion is classified as vulnerable on the IUCN Red List of threatened species;
There has been a 36% reduction in the species range in the last 21 years;
Population surveys estimate that ca. 20,000 to 25,000 lions are left in the wild;
There are only 62 remaining free-ranging wild lion populations remaining in Africa, less than half of which have over 100 lions;
Lions are now confined to 8% of their historic range distribution; and
There are marked differences in how well lions do across different populations. Lion populations in Botswana, for example, are thriving and have increased by 12%, but in West and Central Africa, populations have declined by a worrying 66%.
The bigger picture
Conservationists have for years described the risk of extinction for a species through quantifiable metrics, such as a change in habitat, numbers of mortalities, or percentage of the animal’s population in protected areas. But in a new study, Nicholson et al. (2023) point out that these measures are often based on assumptions. For example, just because an area has been declared a protected area by the authorities does not mean that protection is automatically conferred. Governance of protected areas varies across space and time; some reserves do not or cannot enforce this protection. Some countries do not have the resources to maintain anti-poaching units or effectively manage human-wildlife conflict. Context is always critical. In a reserve surrounded on all sides by livestock farmers, lions are more vulnerable to the consequences of human-wildlife conflict (due to lions preying on livestock) than lions in a reserve buffered by other reserves. Lions in a reserve in countries with stable political environments are more secure than lions in states facing political instability.
To integrate this notion of context, the authors introduce the concept of ‘fragility’. Fragility is, in essence, the opposite of resilience. The authors define fragility as the measure of how vulnerable to damage or harm a species is. Resilient populations bounce back after an adverse event. But fragile populations don’t.
Ecological fragility refers to those ecological factors that make a lion population vulnerable, such as lack of connectivity to other lion populations (this would impact genetic diversity and resilience to disease, etc). They then introduce the concept of socio-political fragility as defined by factors such as human population numbers, political stability and environmental policy. This novel way of assessing the fragility of different African lion populations gives conservationists a more realistic way of understanding which populations face high risk.
A pride of lions in full stride on the plains of the Serengeti, Tanzania
Where are the fragile lion populations?
Ethiopia’s Maze National Park lion population is ranked the most ecologically fragile due to its exposure to high cattle and human densities within the lions’ range. Other ecologically fragile geographic populations include Lake Manyara, Nechisar and Toro-Semiliki. In contrast, the lion populations in the Selous-Niassa (Tanzania and Mozambique) and Kavango-Zambezi (Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe) systems are considered the least ecologically fragile.
When the socio-political context is considered, however, the analysis reveals that the lion populations in Somalia and South Sudan are considered the most fragile, as they score low in governance and conservation-policy categories. From a socio-political perspective, South Africa, Namibia and Botswana lion populations are considered the least fragile.
The combination of ecological and socio-political fragility gives a different index; thus, a different perspective emerges. Overall, Somalia’s lion populations were evaluated as being the most fragile, Botswana’s the least. Sadly, almost half the countries that scored a high overall fragility comprise 39% of the lion’s range and were primarily located in the northern parts of Africa. Poor governance, population pressure, conflict and poverty are prevalent in these northern countries, and these factors hinder effective conservation.
Using the lens of context to describe the fundamental fragility of this species allows conservationists to make different choices in prioritising scarce resources. For example, the DRC and Cameroon had similar high overall fragility scores, but other factors drove their scores. Cameroon lions had more increased ecological fragility, whereas DRC lion populations were considered fragile because of high political conflict and instability. Therefore, conservationists could decide to direct resources into working with the ecological fragility in Cameroon, which would arguably have more impact and be more accessible than expending resources in the high-risk environment in the DRC.
Choosing which lions to save
Conservationists understand how to deal with ecological fragility. However, addressing the more complicated context of social and political barriers that limit effective lion conservation will require a different set of tools and encompass a far more comprehensive range of stakeholders. This would require levels of involvement from stakeholders such as policymakers, local traditional leadership, international role players and law enforcement. But tackling anthropogenic pressures at a national scale can take a long time.
The study raises interesting philosophical questions about our choices in conservation. Do we direct all our resources into the low-hanging fruit, i.e., the lion populations in stable, well-resourced countries? Is this a feasible long-term strategy? Do we ignore the small (<250) lion populations found in just under half of all lion-range countries in favour of larger populations? How do we do less harm by redirecting resources? Considering that the cost of effective lion conservation would exceed US$3 billion per year, based on rough estimates, how is raising this funding feasible when almost all African lion-range countries are in the top 50% (highest poverty) of the Global Multidimensional Poverty Index?
What is clear from the study is that more systemic interventions are needed in the lion conservation arena. This paper provides the first step in understanding more about the contextual threats facing our rapidly dwindling populations of the roaring icon of Africa.
You can help save wild, free-roaming lions by supporting our “Collar a lion” campaign – in partnership with the Southern African Conservation Trust. Read more here.
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Elephants vs trees + Expedition Matusadona
On my drive home yesterday I saw a leopard tortoise on the side of the road, his head submerged in a puddle of water from recent early summer rains. Not the tortoise in the epic image above. I parked the car and walked up to him (or her; I didn’t check), thinking he had drowned. On closer inspection I saw that he was sucking water in, eyes closed in ecstasy beneath the surface – his skinny pulsing neck the only sign of life. After about a minute his eyes popped open underwater. He jerked his head out of the water, stared at me myopically and trundled off. I sat for a few minutes reliving the moment, absorbing the energy of what that small temporary puddle of water meant to him.
I need another safari. Chat to you next week, from some very remote spot in Africa. In the meantime, maybe its also time for your next safari – ready-made or crafted just for you. Enjoy the planning process – it’s part of the journey!
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Did you know that an obscure species of rain frog, only ever seen once before, has just been found live and kicking on the north-west coast of South Africa? Branch’s rain frog was first described from a single specimen found in the Northern Cape in 2008, and has not been seen since. Until last week, that is – when the Endangered Wildlife Trust and other researchers rediscovered the frog while surveying priority habitats on the coast. After spotting tiny footprints in the sand dunes, the team tracked these and found not one, but two of the elusive frogs – a major success for future conservation work in the area!
This week we’re showcasing the second in a series of stories from Kingsley Holgate’s Afrika Odyssey expedition – this time on the renaissance of Matusadona National Park. And in some good news, Elephants Alive have found that wire netting can help save Africa’s tree from elephants. Read more in our second story.
Journey to an island paradise in Malawi, or into the heart of the African bushveld in Zimbabwe. Both idyllic settings offer an irresistible chance to unwind and relax. Enquire today and let your African adventures begin!
Mumbo Island escape – Lake Malawi – 6 days/5 nights – from US$1,470pps
Escape to an uninhabited island paradise in Lake Malawi to switch off and detox. For the active, there is kayaking, snorkelling, swimming, scuba diving and walks in the stunning island forest. Or flop into a shady hammock and chill. You decide! This island escape is ideal for couples, families and even groups of friends.
Emerald season special – $450pppn – Somalisa Camp, Hwange NP, Zimbabwe
Nestled in the heart of Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe, this intimate tented bush camp provides the perfect setting for a relaxing safari experience with your loved ones. Book a minimum two-night stay and take advantage of this irresistible discount. Valid 1 November–21 December 2023 & 05 January–31 March 2024
Client report-back – Zambia & Vic Falls
Ulrich Schmauke recently returned from his trip to Kafue National Park, Lower Zambezi National Park, South Luangwa National Park and Victoria Falls with AG:
“Our trip to Zambia was unforgettable. I’ve never seen so much game as we did in just nine days. Sausage Tree Camp and Lion Camp were superb. Lunch in the Zambezi River, and in the bushveld, were unforgettable. Victoria Falls Hotel remains one of my favourite hotels in the world. Christian, as usual, organised the trip (he has organised a few for us before) and all worked out excellently.”
Want to go on a safari like this?Browse our ready-made safarisand chat to our safari experts to plan your ultimate safari!
WATCH: Moving an elephant family to safety. Watch as the Sheldrick Trust translocates a family of elephants – two moms and two calves – off community land and back to the safety of Kenya’s Tsavo East National Park (5:01). Click here to watch
To reach Matusadona National Park, the second destination in the Holgate Foundation’s Afrika Odyssey expedition, we cross Botswana’s Tuli Block en route to Zimbabwe and set up a wild camp in community-owned cattle lands. There are still plenty of signs of wildlife around. As it’s the school holidays, the next generation of Holgate explorers – Kingsley Holgate’s grandkids Miabella and Scarlett – have come along on this chapter. They love expedition life and certainly add colour and humour to the journey.
As night falls, a clapped-out bakkie comes rattling down the dirt road, screeches to a stop in a cloud of dust and then bumps across to where we’re pitching our tents. Out tumble four friendly Tswana locals, a big-stomached jovial gent in a holey T-shirt is carrying a 12-bore shotgun. It turns out they’re the community’s anti-poaching/stock-theft brigade. “You are most welcome,” he says with a chuckle, “but please be careful – plenty of elephants around here.” The girls’ eyes go as round as saucers, and they quickly pull their chairs closer to the campfire.
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
We dislike busy commercial border crossings, so leave Botswana from the remote Mabolwe Border Post. “You can cross into Zimbabwe only when the Shashe River is dry,” says the friendly border official before selling us hot, fresh magwinyas (small doughnuts) baked by his wife. Then, we’re off across the wide, tree-lined, sandy riverbed. In the small 10mx10m Mlambapele Border Post office on the Zimbabwean side, we can only write good things in a dog-eared notebook marked ‘Compliments and Complaints’. Whilst we go through the rigamarole of checking passports and vehicle papers, Scarlett makes friends with a trussed-up black-and-white goat, which she names Oreo, much to the amusement of the locals, who have other plans for it. We’re the only border-crossers, and there are smiles all around. The entry stamp comes down with a thump – welcome to Zimbabwe!
Elephants rushing to the shores of Lake Kariba
Zigzag to Matusadona
Across Matabeleland we encounter donkey carts, baobabs, friendly smiles and waves from kids in wide-brimmed, school-issue sun hats. We follow little-used dirt tracks through cattle country to enter the Matopos from the south. Our safari sees us camping amongst wildlife with forever views over this ancient place. At sunset, we sit quietly amongst the huge, lichen-covered granite boulders where ley lines are said to interconnect. Iridescent green-blue lizards scuttle over the rockface, and elephant shrews dash between the smooth, round boulders glowing gold in the fading light. A black eagle soars overhead, and the only sound to be heard is birdsong carried on the wind. There’s magnetic energy here.
We dodge potholes down to Mlibizi on the southern shoreline of Lake Kariba, where, around the evening campfire, we chat about our past expeditions on the Zambezi – our favourite river.
The final zigzag to our safari in Matusadona National Park is an adventure, and we pass giant, centuries-old baobabs and neat Batonka villages. We navigate narrow bridges with dangerously crumbling sides. Mopane flies share our roadside lunch of tuna sarmies with tomatoes bought at a village market. We stop at a roadside craft stall and purchase a small, hand-carved wooden rhino from a Batonka craftsman, which we symbolically name ‘Dona’. Miabella buys a little wooden pangolin and calls it ‘Halo’. Black rhinos were once such an iconic species in the Zambezi Valley until poaching wiped them out, and pangolins are now the most trafficked animal in the world. How interesting that, out of this region’s iconic wildlife, the craftsman had chosen to carve these two endangered species.
Kingsley with the golden boulders of Matopos, where the Afrika Odyssey team camped en route to Matusadona
Resilience
Matusadona means ‘where the dung falls’, referring no doubt to the steepness of this incredibly wild and beautiful escarpment that sharply drops 600m to the Kariba shoreline far below. It is said that on occasion, a round dung dropping can tumble far down the steep, well-pounded elephant tracks that crisscross this ancient gateway. In the rainy season, these tracks transform into a wonderland of waterfalls and adventure-filled treks through deep gorges.
Travelling into Matusadona National Park, we expect a difficult, rough and rocky track from the top of the escarpment to the Kariba lakeshore below. But then we witness something remarkable that this part of the world hasn’t seen in years. It’s a big, noisy, yellow and powerful endangered species: a brand new grader. Thanks to African Parks now managing this venerated Zimbabwean park, the machine is hard at work making the steeply sloping road easily passable, providing a further incentive for 4×4 travellers to make this fascinating journey.
Find out about Zimbabwe for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.
Matusadona offers adventure in 147,000ha of wilderness. Apart from the newly restored lodges and serviced campsites, there are also genuinely wild, unfenced 4×4 sites. We come across some overlanders wild camping next to an inlet of Lake Kariba. Nearby, two big male lions feed on a dead hippo as squabbling vultures scrabble for a foothold in the surrounding trees. A substantial crocodile cruises out into deeper water festooned in green water hyacinth, a single, pale purple flower comically perched above one primaeval eye. We encounter a safari roadblock on the track down to Tashinga Camp – as lions block our path. At the camp, park manager Mike Pelham and his wife Tracey are waiting to welcome us. Surrounded by impala and visited by the occasional elephant, we pitch camp under the spreading branches of giant sycamore fig trees on the shoreline of Lake Kariba.
Wild camping at Tashinga Camp
In the morning, we head to the operations room, where we meet the team from the Matusadona Conservation Trust (MCT) – a vibrant partnership between ZimParks and African Parks that began in 2019. “I’ve never seen people work so hard to become part of the new MCT,” remarks Mike, as members of the law enforcement corps snap to attention. Tough, intelligent, disciplined and committed, the challenges of restoring this park are immense for Mike and his staff: fish and bushmeat poaching, illegal gold panning up in the mountains, destructive fire-burns and human-wildlife conflict. The challenges of restoring the Matusadona ecosystem, protecting the pristine rivers and springs on the escarpment and rebuilding community relationships are all taken in stride. To top it all off, there is also the training up a first-class law enforcement team that will ensure the protection of black rhinos and other vital species when the time comes for them to be re-introduced.
“There’s immense pride here; we don’t compromise on what’s become known as ‘Matusadona quality’. Resilience is the key attribute that we look for in all our staff,” Mike tells us as he stands in front of a map that shows the ruggedness of the park’s terrain, the Kariba shoreline and surrounding community districts. “As you know, things have been tough here in Zim, so a good job, decent living conditions and being paid on time means a lot. We’re also extremely fortunate to have the full support of ZimParks and excellent cooperation with the National Judiciary’s dedicated Wildlife Directorate. Despite the difficulties of the past few years, these two departments have remained solid.”
The African Parks team from Matusadona embrace the Afrika Odyssey expedition team
“But in today’s world, conservation cannot be successful without the support of neighbouring communities,” he continues. “So a big focus of the MCT is working with community structures and district councils to build knowledge and ensure that local people also benefit from Matusadona.” And this is where the African Parks model of community involvement is outstanding. Daniel Sithole, Matusadona’s Community Manager, tells us that tomorrow is Umuganda Day – an idea taken from the Rwandan practice of people coming together once a month to engage in community outreach and help one another.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
The expedition team is all hands-on deck. The following morning, we load one of the expedition Defenders onto a small ferry and chug across the Ume River, pushed along by a noisy, belt-driven, single-cylinder engine to Masamba Fishing Camp. This is one of two commercial livelihood projects on the lakeshore, which have seen a seven-fold increase in the catch thanks to the MCT’s efforts to protect the legal permit holders and stop fish-poaching syndicates from plundering the Matusadona shoreline.
Crossing the Ume River to reach Masamba Fishing Camp
Jovial Chief Mola and the village councillors greet us warmly before we all get to work to give the community hall a colourful makeover. Dirty walls are cleaned and painted, and then, using the ample stencils we’ve brought from SA, the building is transformed into a kaleidoscope of colour with a wildlife theme. Rhino, elephant, giraffe, zebra, lion, cheetah and buffalo, and ‘Musoma Hall’ in big, bold letters are all painted onto the walls. It’s great to see the enthusiasm of the Matusadona staff and camp residents, all wanting their turn with a paint brush, as school children sit in the shade of a big knob-thorn tree, putting the finishing touches to their Wildlife Art assignments. There are bright colours, laughter and smiles all around with Chief Molo presenting simple prizes – building bridges between conservation and communities.
There’s so much good stuff to do and such a good vibe that the Umuganda events stretch into the next two days with Daniel and his community team. There are malaria-prevention drives for pregnant women and mothers with young children, and the distribution of reading glasses to poor-sighted elderly folk at local clinics. Then there is the decorating of the walls of Matusadona Primary School inside the tidy and freshly-painted staff village, and the judging of the regional finals of the children’s Wildlife Art Competition – all with an exciting conservation theme.
Children from the community colour in for the Wildlife Art competitionPainting Musoma HallConducting eye tests at the local clinic
Tired, dirty and covered in paint, we stagger back to camp each evening. We love the golden glow of the sunsets over Kariba with views across to Bumi Hills. Lions roar at the full moon, we hear grunting hippos, and there is a hyena skulking in the shadows, hoping we’ve left the camp kitchen door open. Around the campfire at night, we get to chat more with Mike and his Matusadona team. We also meet fascinating characters like Richard and Gilly Thornycroft from the Flying For Wildlife Trust, who arrive in their light sport aircraft to fly volunteer aerial patrols. We listen intently to their stories of hope for the future of this magnificent piece of Africa.
Renaissance
One morning, there’s much excitement at the park’s headquarters: a large herd of buffalo has appeared on the Matusadona shoreline for the first time in weeks. “The staff say they can’t believe how the animals are returning to the lakeshore,” says Mike with a grin. “The wildlife isn’t scared anymore – even elephants with tiny babies are revealing themselves again.” What a wonderful sign of this legendary park’s renaissance.
Animals such as buffalo are returning to the lake shore
As always, some symbolic traditions are linked to this Afrika Odyssey expedition. Carrying his rifle as if it’s an extension of his body and reading faint tracks and signs, Mike gives us short cameos of wildlife movements as we track through the mopane woodland to a secret pool fed by the springs that bubble out of the Matusadona escarpment. It’s a beautiful spot; a hippo explodes through the long grass and scrambles up the opposite bank. Mike draws us into a huddle and, in a whisper, says, “In the old days, when Matusadona was a black rhino stronghold, I tracked many of them to their favourite secret drinking pools just like this one.” He reverently dips the expedition calabash into the crystal-clear pool. He collects a thimbleful of symbolic water – a ceremony that will take place in all 22 protected areas managed by African Parks on our 12-country journey.
Collecting water from a pool fed by the springs of the Matusadona escarpment, to add to the symbolic expedition calabash
There’s a strong smell of elephant. We come across a mound of fresh dung, the leaves and grasses hardly chewed – a sign of old age and few teeth. Mike silently tracks forward and points out an elderly elephant cow, her bony head just visible as she browses from a tamarind tree, oblivious to our presence.
As we return to the road, Mike bends down and grabs a fistful of foliage from a grey-green shrub. “This is wild basil, which, along with many other herbs and plants that grow here, makes Matusadona a great habitat for black rhino. One day, if all goes according to plan and the communities approve, we’ll have them back here. It will be a full circle as they will be the progeny of the original Zambezi Valley black rhino, removed 30 years ago to places of safety to protect their genealogy – along with sable and roan antelope and eland, which are also needed to restore the entire ecosystem. When that happens, Matusadona will become an anchor of safety and security – not just for wildlife, but for the wider community. That’s our 10-year goal.”
Matusadona is becoming a safe zone for wildlife such as lions
It’s with a degree of sadness that in the expedition Defenders, we climb back up and over the escarpment trailing clouds of dust. Matusadona has touched our hearts, and we feel like we’ve had a master class in conservation excellence. That night, back on the Zambezi at Deka, we take out the expedition’s Scroll of Peace and Goodwill for Conservation and read the handwritten messages from the Matusadona team.
Mike writes: “The adventure of rebuilding Matusadona has started, and I am incredibly proud that it will be restocked from other protected areas within Zimbabwe. The biggest gift that you can provide from this Afrika Odyssey expedition is to spread the news that Matusadona and Zimbabwe overall are still on the conservation map. Wilderness areas and the possibility for true adventure still exist, and our greatest asset – our people – are friendlier and more welcoming than ever.”
We certainly second that. With a sense of excitement, we continue our journey to connect these irreplaceable African Parks-managed areas across the continent. A great story of hope is unfolding.
South Africans have a peculiar affinity for large, iconic trees. The country’s Limpopo province is home to Africa’s tallest tree and the second thickest tree in the world.South Africa even boasts its own Champion Trees Projects since 1998, run by the Department of Water Affairs and Forestry. Landowners and nature enthusiasts throughout the country are exceptionally proud – and rightly so – of the large trees on their properties and in the nature parks they visit, as they make for iconic landmarks and provide shelter to all kinds of species that call the savannah home. Are you wondering how to best protect trees from elephant damage? Which methods work and when? New research, originally published by Elephants Alive, may have the answers.
The threats faced by trees: elephants and other agents
Where nature reserves house elephants, Africa’s largest land mammal is often singled out as the leading cause of destruction of the large trees with which they share the landscape. Elephants break trees to get easier access to the leaves, roots and nutrients. They also remove the bark to access the nutritious cambium layer underneath. As bark often strips off circularly around the trunk, this may lead to ring barking, causing the tree to die off as the cambium layer is responsible for transporting nutrients upwards from the soil. Yet, elephant feeding on trees has been found to benefit other species: dispersing seeds in fertile dung and improving plant diversity by opening up grassland areas, to name a few. However, elephants are selective about the tree species and heights they forage on, and their presence can eliminate certain tree species or height classes from an area over time. This can have cascading effects on other species that depend on these trees, like raptors or vultures nesting in tall trees.
An elephant bark-stripping
Besides elephants, tree survival in African savannahs can also be affected by other ecological factors, like fire frequency and intensity, termite infestation, and drought stress. High fire frequencies can negatively affect woody biomass and the regeneration of large tree saplings. Drought stress can cause hydraulic failure and vulnerability to biotic attacks, leading to large tree declines even without the presence of elephants. Smaller herbivores, like impala, have been found to decimate great numbers of tree seedlings, thus negatively affecting tree regeneration.
A divisive debate ensues, where concerns about elephants as an endangered species and their role in preserving biodiversity are juxtaposed with the wish and need to preserve large trees as Africa’s natural landmarks. The complex interactions between elephants, other ecological factors, and tree survival in African savannahs have been causing headaches for conservationists and reserve management for decades. Different strategies have been implemented to limit or redistribute elephant impact to protect large trees. For instance, as elephant foraging is primarily centred around water sources, reducing the number of water points may limit the overall effect of localised destruction and population growth.
A bark-stripped tree
Protecting large trees: what & how?
Trees may also be directly protected using “wire-netting” to prevent elephants from stripping the bark, which can facilitate tree mortality from various other causes. Wire-netting has previously been found to improve large-tree survival significantly. Highly cost-effective due to the affordability of materials and ease of application, wire netting can be applied en-masse to protect large amounts of trees at little cost. However, little is known regarding the lifespan of wire netting if not maintained and how effective it is as a long-term tree-protection solution.
Offering an answer to this uncertainty, a newly released study by Elephants Alive shows how wire-netting and various environmental factors, combined with the impact of elephants, influence the survival of large trees. The research offers a better understanding of the conservation challenges that reserve management faces while protecting large trees.
The study was conducted over 12 years in the Associated Private Nature Reserves (APNR) in South Africa. The APNR shares an unfenced boundary west of the Kruger National Park. The Elephants Alive research team, led by Dr. Michelle Henley and Robin Cook, conducted field assessments of 2,758 trees in 2008, 2012, 2017, and 2020. The tree species under investigation were false marula, knobthorn, and marula trees. Approximately half (or 1,395 trees) were wire-netted at the beginning of the study period.
The main goals of the study were to:
Investigate how many of each type of tree survived over the 12 years in the APNR.
Examine whether using wire netting to protect the trees affected their survival during the same 12-year period.
Understand how various environmental factors (drought, fire), combined with the impact of elephants, influenced the survival of these trees during three different surveys conducted within the 12-year timeframe.
During their field assessments, the researchers recorded the diameter of the tree trunk, fire damage, presence of termites, ants and bracket fungus, the level of elephant impact on each tree, whether the tree had wire netting, the condition of the wire netting, and its survival status. For each year, the researchers also collected data on the mean annual rainfall closest to the trees’ location, elephant-bull and breeding-herd densities, and the distance to the nearest surface waterhole.
Robin Cook on a field survey of a stem snapped marula tree
Wire-netting to the rescue: a simple solution to a complex issue?
In total, 33% of trees survived the 12-year study period. The distance to water sources did not significantly affect tree mortality, as the multitude of artificial waterholes in the APNR provides ready access to water. This finding emphasises the importance of other methods to limit the detrimental effects of elephant impact on large trees in areas where limiting water sources isn’t an option.
The study showed that using wire netting significantly improved the survival of large trees. Wire netting prevents elephants from bark-stripping, but the trees remain vulnerable to heavier forms of elephant impact like stem snapping and uprooting. Wire-netting is thus most successful for trees with a more than 40cm diameter. The method of wire-netting is a second important aspect of the success rate. Nevertheless, the effectiveness of wire-netting decreased after four years if the netting lost its structural integrity. Over one-fifth of the wire-netted trees in the study had damaged or fallen-off chicken mesh, making the wire-netting ineffective against bark-stripping. This highlights that wire netting can lose its effectiveness if not properly maintained. Conservation managers should consider replacing the chicken mesh after about four years to ensure continued tree protection.
The researchers also discovered tree survival was lowest during drought, particularly for false marula and knobthorn. This suggests that drought can negatively affect the survival of these tree species. Elephants, mainly, increase their impact on trees during drier months when grass quality decreases. This impact may be further amplified for trees with shallow rooting systems (like false marula and knobthorn), making them vulnerable to water stress and competition for soil water compared to trees with deeper roots. An increased percentage of dead marula trees during the final survey period (2018-2020) may be attributed to a fire that affected the area where many of these trees were located. Adult marula trees are particularly susceptible to intense fires, especially after experiencing elephant impact.
Left: A marula tree with wire netting and termite damage (the reddish mud covering the bark). Right: Elephant reaching for higher branches
Elephants Alive’s research provides evidence of how the complexity of environmental factors has affected the mortality trends of three large tree species within the APNR savannah system over 12 years. The results show that wire-netting can be used as a mitigation method to significantly increase tree survival by reducing elephant impact on these trees. However, conservation managers must replace wire netting every four years to maintain efficiency. The results have also shown that tree survival was positively affected by an increase in mean annual rainfall (for false marula and knobthorn) and negatively affected by fire events (marula trees). These results provide important insights into how various environmental factors have influenced large tree survival where trees co-occur with elephants.
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Questionable desert-adapted lion hunt + wild pigs
The most frustrating part of our mission to tell Africa’s stories warts-and-all is trying to unearth the facts when members of the wildlife industries appear to have behaved badly. Our story below about the latest trophy hunting of a livestock-killing Namibian desert-adapted lion is a case in point.
The lack of transparency; in fact let’s call this what it is – a blanket of secrecy – is not conducive to finding solutions to the many problems that beset our wild places as humans and wildlife vie for territory. During our attempts to determine two critical issues – how the trophy hunters found this lion in that vast desert and where he was killed – we were stonewalled by those who have the info and the mandate to communicate and validate the facts so that there is no speculation. Both issues go to the core of whether this was a legal hunt. Legality is important in the quest for sustainable solutions, right?
Based on the facts at hand, we stand by our deductive reasoning as detailed in the article, but I have assured the Namibian powers-that-be that we will amend the article and issue a public statement if any requested contradictory evidence comes to light – via official or other channels.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
The dead walk among us. Or, at least, zombie ants do. Did you know that Ophiocordyceps unilateralis (cordyceps for short) – the zombie-making fungus featured in The Last of Us – is real?
The parasitic fungus infects carpenter ants, where its spores are picked up by the ant on the rainforest floor (check out this zombie ant in Sapo National Park, Liberia). In an extraordinary feat of mind control, the fungus forces the ant to leave the safety of its nest, climb to a height and lock its mouth around a leaf, before growing and then feeding off the ant’s vital organs. Luckily, this parasitic fungi cannot infect humans (for now…).
This week, don’t miss our incredibly important story on the questionable hunting of a desert-adapted lion, and our comprehensive guide to the many wild pigs of Africa – both below.
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WATCH: Why are photographic hides a must-visit? Andrew Macdonald travelled with Africa Geographic to Northern Tuli Game Reserve, Botswana, as part of the annual Photographer of the Year winner’s trip. Andrew experienced the Photo Mashatu sunken hide for some epic photographic opportunities. In this video, Andrew shares the highlights of his time in the hide (8:23). Click here to watch
From the despotic Napolean and arachnophile Wilbur to timid Piglet and hardworking sheep-pig Babe, suids (pigs) feature prominently in literature and popular culture. This is perhaps unsurprising given that the domestic pig is one of the most numerous large animals on the planet. However, there are also at least 18 wild species in the Suidae family (depending on the taxonomist), indigenous to Europe, Asia, and Africa. Of these, six species of wild pigs are found on the African continent, rooting their way across savannahs, lurking along dark forest paths, and enjoying a mud wallow as much as the next pig – these are the wild pigs of Africa.
The warthogs (Phacochoerus africanus and Phacochoerus aeithiopicus)
With their wide distribution and diurnal habits (and iconic vocals of a free-spirited, animated representative), warthogs are undoubtedly the most famous of all of Africa’s suids, often spotted on the quintessential African safari. These hardy animals are ubiquitous across savannahs, and almost any safari is all but guaranteed to yield at least one sighting. Unbeknownst to most, there are two species of warthogs roaming the continent – the common warthog (Phacochoerus africanus) spread throughout much of sub-Saharan Africa and the desert warthog (Phacochoerus aeithiopicus), which is isolated to the Horn of Africa.
Adult warthogs attain a size of around 75kg when fully grown, though mature males may weigh as much as 150kg. Their grey, wrinkled skin is covered by a spare smattering of coarse hair and the characteristic facial “warts” (actually just outgrowths of thick skin) for which they are named are particularly well-developed in boars, often extending as much as 15cm from below their eyes. The tusks of the males are also usually longer than those of the females. These modified canine teeth exist in pairs – the impressive upper maxillary pair and the shorter but razor-sharp mandibular pair. Though built a bit like tanks, warthogs display an astonishing turn of speed when necessary, and if flight fails, the tusks can be utilised as deadly weapons in a fight.
The common warthog
Like most species, warthogs subsist on a primarily herbivorous diet, using their specialised snouts to shovel the juiciest bulbs and roots. However, they will supplement this carbohydrate-heavy fare with insects, eggs and even carrion on occasion. After a day foraging, they retreat to underground burrows to pass the dangerous hours of darkness. Boars in their prime are usually solitary (except during the short, fierce breeding season), but females remain in small natal sounders and will care for each other’s piglets.
The other wild pigs
Four additional species of wild pigs prominently found in Africa are the bushpig, red river hog, giant forest hog, and the African subspecies of the Eurasian wild boar – the North African boar.
The bushpig (Potamochoerus larvatus)
The stocky, shaggy bushpig overlaps considerably with the distribution of its distant cousin, the warthog. However, in contrast, few safari-goers ever glimpse these shy animals. Their evasion can be partly explained by their predominantly nocturnal habits, but, in truth, despite their reputation as “aggressive” and “dangerous” animals, bushpigs are usually extremely wary of humans and avoid them where possible.
Though roughly the same average mass as warthogs, this is where the physical similarities between the two pigs end. Bushpigs are covered in a thick, bristly coat that can vary in colour from a reddish-brown to dark grey, often with a lighter underbelly and a white mane. Their eyes are tiny, and the tusks are all but hidden beneath the thick skin of the snout (though they are still present and capable of inflicting considerable damage). Bizarrely, despite significant and apparent differences, warthogs and bushpigs were considered the same species for most of the 20th century and bushpigs only attained species status in the early 90s.
The striking colours of the bushpig
As the name implies, bushpigs prefer dense vegetation and are often found in thickets, forests, swampland or riverine areas. However, they are adaptable and will readily occupy disturbed habitats around agricultural areas, often to the dis”grunt”lement of the neighbouring farmers. Like warthogs, bushpigs rely heavily on plant matter for sustenance, and their status as crop pests is often well-deserved as they have a taste for anything from sugarcane and maize to sweet potatoes and carrots. However, their omnivorous palate is also highly developed, favouring eggs, fledgling birds and carrion in any state of decay. They have even been observed stalking and killing young antelope.
Bushpigs are social animals and live in breeding sounders of up to 12 or more members. The dominant individuals, especially the boars, are very defensive of their sounders and intruders (including two-legged ones) will be chased away at considerable speed.
Red river hog (Potamochoerus porcus)
A close relative of the bushpig, red river hogs (pictured in this story’s cover image) are found primarily in the rainforests of West and Central Africa and are perhaps the most winsome of all Africa’s porcine offerings. They are covered by a luxurious pelt of ochre-coloured fur, which contrasts dramatically with their black and white markings. The comically over-large ears end in long, thin tufts outlined by a shock of white hair. These curl at the tips, giving the impression that the hogs have donned the African equivalent of a court jester’s hat. In contrast, the tiny piglets are decorated with a delicate pattern of pale stripes and spots.
Red river hog piglets have patterned pattern pale stripes and spots on their fur
Their diet and social structure are similar to that of the bushpig, and they communicate continuously with other members of the sounder with a vast repertoire of grunts and squeals. Though primarily nocturnal, they may emerge to forage and wallow around water points during the day. The forest baïs of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the Republic of the Congo are among some of the best places to encounter them in the wild.
Giant forest hog (Hylochoerus meinertzhageni)
In terms of averages, the giant forest hog is considered the largest of all living wild pigs but is also one of the world’s most mysterious. Like the red river hogs, they lurk in the depths of the thick forests in West and Central Africa. Despite their intimidating size and Gothic covering of jet-black fur, giant forest hogs are exceptionally retiring. They are seldom encountered in the wild, even by those who research their habits.
Consequently, there is still much more to learn about this porcine colossus, from subspecies (or even species) distinctions to conservation status. We know they live in family groups, and these sounders include a dominant boar that plays a hands-on (hoof-on?) role in protecting offspring. There is also a strong suspicion that the giant forest hog may be more threatened than its IUCN Red List status of “least concern” implies due to snaring and bushmeat poaching.
Giant forest hogs in Aberdare National Park, Kenya
Eurasian wild pig/wild boar (Sus scrofa)
As the ancestor of most domestic pig breeds, the Eurasian wild pig or wild boar is a relatively well-known species (though one was somehow mistaken for an escaped lion in Berlin in mid-2023!). These dishevelled beasts are widespread across most of Europe and Asia and have been introduced to North America and Australasia (where they have become a problem in some areas). The African subspecies – the North African boar (Sus scrofa algira – also called the Barbary wild boar) – is smaller than its European relatives and is found in Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia.
Another desert-adapted lion has been trophy hunted in Namibia. The collared lion, known as ‘XPL-107’ and ‘Mwezi’ by researchers, was the only remaining black-maned desert-adapted lion in the area.
The established facts, as detailed below, led to us asking a few uncomfortable questions of a senior representative of Namibia’s Ministry of Environment and Forestry (MEFT). We use his replies, evidence gleaned from our sources and deductive reasoning to arrive at serious doubts about the legality of this hunt.
The location of the lion on the day of his demise – as evidenced by data from his collar GPS device – suggests he was hunted either in Skeleton Coast National Park (illegal) or in an adjoining concession operated solely for tourism purposes (unauthorised). The collar provides data every four hours via satellite, allowing for an accurate record of his movements on 11 October 2023 – the day he was killed:
12h00: XPL-107 was located 4km inside Skeleton Coast National Park. Lions usually rest up in shade during the heat of the day – especially during summer – and only move around or hunt during the cooler hours. He was located within 600m of this position for the eight hours between 04h00 and 12h00.
16h00: failed collar ping. Collar pings have an almost 100% success rate. Failure would suggest that by 16h00, the lion was being transported in the back of a vehicle, GPS device facing the floor.
20h00: XPL-107’s body is located at Khowarib hunting camp. This is 99km as the crow flies from his position at 12h00 – along very poor roads that would take a vehicle many hours to traverse. Ironically, this ping also triggered an ‘Early Warning System’ – designed to notify monitors that a lion has moved into an area of potential human-wildlife conflict. The above location pings suggest that XPL-107 was killed between 12h00 and 16h00. Bearing in mind that lions seldom move great distances during the heat of the day, deductive reasoning suggests that this lion was either killed inside Skeleton Coast National Park (illegal) or in neighbouring community land leased to a tourism company (unauthorised). Also note that if XPL-107 had moved outside of these protected areas, his collar would have sent an early-warning system ping. The only such ping occurred when his carcass was located in the hunting camp.
No designated officials within the relevant conservancies or concession holders were informed that there was a legitimate hunt authorised in the area. We are also informed that neither the Directorate of Scientific Services at MEFT nor the relevant MEFT lion-conflict manager were informed about the planned hunt.
We questioned the MEFT representative during a telephone call as to how the trophy hunting party located XPL-107 in such a vast area and, specifically, whether the collar location data was used for this purpose. Research collars are for the purposes of research and human-wildlife conflict prevention. The representative denied the use of the collar location data by the trophy hunting party. However, we know that one particular MEFT official who did not show prior interest in the location data of any lions, logged in every day from 21 September 2023 (when XPL-107 was named a ‘problem-causing animal’) until the day the lion was shot. This particular official only looked at XPL-107 data and did not log in again after the day XPL-107 was killed. Deductive reasoning based on this information and the hunting party movements described below would suggest that the collar data was used to locate XPL-107 for trophy-hunting purposes.
The movement of two vehicles carrying the hunting party (including two foreign nationals and a rifle) and MEFT officials was recorded as follows:
The two vehicles entered the Palmwag concession at the Aub gate
On being questioned about the rifle, MEFT claimed they were there for ‘policing’. No permit related to a hunt was presented
There is no record of the vehicles leaving the area via an official/manned gate
XPL-107 was declared a ‘problem-causing animal’ by MEFT around 21 September 2023 – after being suspected of killing livestock on two occasions in July 2023. In the first incident, he was seen by a scout where 14 goats were killed, and data from his collar verified his presence. In the second incident, where a Brahman bull was killed, XPL-107 was not seen, but collar data confirms that he was in the area at the time. There appears to be little doubt that he was responsible for these livestock deaths. There do, however, seem to be doubts about whether MEFT followed the necessary procedures to declare XPL-107 a so-called ‘problem-causing animal’. Delhra, a Namibian non-profit working with local farming communities to preserve wildlife within the Kunene region of Namibia, has suggested in various social media announcements that the Minister must, in terms of section 53 of the Nature Conservation Ordinance 4 of 1975, declare a problem-causing animal as such via a notice in the Official Gazette. During our telephone discussion with a MEFT spokesperson, it was confirmed that MEFT had not done so. The same MEFT representative undertook to provide incident reports related to the two livestock attacks but has not yet done so.
Unlike with other human-lion conflict cases in this area, no attempt was made to use established mitigation measures to avoid killing another desert-adapted lion. A few weeks before this, lion OPL24 was successfully relocated after killing a few goats. Further back, lion XPL131, who caused far greater damage than XPL107, was relocated by MEFT twice before finally being declared a problem-causing animal.
The Ehi-rovipuka Conservancy has been allocated two male lions as trophies this year. The trophy hunting of XPL107 will not be counted as one of these trophies because his killing was enabled under the ‘problem-causing animal’ provisions. And so, two additional male lions will be removed from the threatened desert-adapted lion population for trophy-hunting purposes.
XPL-107 was seen mating with the last surviving lioness of the Obab Pride from 29 September to 5 October 2023 – as reported by researchers – days before he was shot. Researchers described him as ‘one of the most reproductively successful males in the population’.
Follow the money: According to the MEFT official we spoke to, this trophy hunt generated a total of N$300,000 for local communities and N$20,000 for a fund for conservation and human-wildlife management. The total amounts to approximately US$17,000 – which is about 28% of the likely trophy fee of US$60,000 paid by the trophy hunting client (as per a recent trophy hunting advertising campaign for a ‘male lion trophy’ in Namibia). The important question is why African communities are continually being short-changed by the trophy hunting industry.
About desert-adapted lions and the communities that share their landscape
Desert-adapted lions occupy an area of approximately 40,000 km2 in Namibia’s remote and barren northwest. They share this landscape with about 19,300 humans – mostly small-scale pastoralists for whom drought and predation represent significant threats to livelihoods. Lions account for 20% of livestock losses.
The population of lions in the Kunene Region to the northwest of Etosha National Park is only 57-60 individuals, BUT of these, an estimated24 are desert-adapted lions (the far-westerly population). This population fluctuates significantly based on rainfall, prey base and human persecution. The entire population in the Kunene Region went from a low of perhaps 20 individuals in the late 1990s to an estimated high of 180 in 2015.
Convincing livestock farmers that lions should occupy the same landscape at all is a tough ask, especially when there are no obvious benefits. The tenuous relationship between communal farmers and lions has engendered retaliatory and preventive killing of lions. Since 2000, retaliatory killings have accounted for 89% of recorded lion (non-cub) mortalities – with more than 130 lions killed during this period.
Some view trophy hunting as one model demonstrating economic benefits to local people – if the industry is managed sustainably and legally. Considerable effort is made to prevent and mitigate livestock losses resulting from lion predation. One such method is to track individual lions using satellite collars, which trigger warning SMSs when the lions are near livestock so that local people can chase the lions away. Another method is the provision of safe fenced areas where livestock can be moved at night.
The desert-adapted lion is not a separate species from lions found in less arid areas. They do, however, display remarkable adaptions that enable them to live in this inhospitable region – which non-adapted lions would not survive.
READ MORE about desert-adapted lions and measures to protect them.
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Kruger rhino tally + salt pan archaeology + bad banks
Did you know that a handful of top banks have invested into companies that make traditional Chinese medicine from endangered animal parts? Think pangolins, rhinos, leopards and tigers.
Based in Australia, Canada, the EU, Japan, Switzerland, the UK and USA, many of these banks are signatories to the Principles for Responsible Investment or members of the International Corporate Governance Network, which has publicly expressed concerns about biodiversity loss and species extinctions. Seven are members of The Royal Foundation’s United for Wildlife (UfW) Financial Taskforce, which was launched in 2018 to stop the trafficking of wildlife. Trading in these animal parts is also strictly forbidden by CITES.
You will find further info and the list of the banks here. Boycotting them probably won’t achieve much. However, writing to their CEOs to express your disappointment – and persisting when the doors are inevitably slammed shut, will do more good than you may realise. CEOs are human too, and hundreds of weighty messages will achieve the desired effect. You know what to do …
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Invasive mammals are the main cause of animal extinctions on islands worldwide. Did you know that mice are eating their way through the Marion Island bird population – even giants like wandering albatrosses?
Marion Island is an important seabird stronghold in the sub-Antarctic Indian Ocean, and invasive house mice accidentally introduced to the island by sealers in the 1800s are devastating its populations. But, there is hope: Learn more about the Mouse Free Marion project here.
This week, we bring you the latest update on Kruger’s rhino population, and fascinating insights into the archaeological wonders found in the Makgadikgadi salt pans.
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Take advantage of this incredible special offer at Lewa Wilderness and you’ll soon find yourself exploring one of Kenya’s oldest private safari destinations. This beautiful lodge is based in Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, Laikipia, and is shadowed by the magnificent Mount Kenya. Stay three nights and pay for two, or stay four nights and pay for three (specific dates apply).
Collar a Lion campaign
Long Shields Guardian Programme
How are men and women living around Hwange National Park helping to prevent incidents of human-wildlife conflict? The Long Shields Guardian Programme employs and trains people from local communities to protect villages from lions, safeguard cattle, and aid in wildlife management. GPS collars fitted on lions provide an early-warning system to the guardians, who are able to act quickly to prevent incidents from happening. Guardians patrol daily, alerting villagers through a WhatsApp group when lions approach, deterring them from community lands. This innovative ‘Mobile Boma’ concept helps protect livestock, enhances food security, and reduces lion killings. The programme’s expansion has led to an increase in crop yields, a reduction in predation, and fewer retaliatory lion deaths. Find out more about the programme and donate to support peaceful human-lion coexistence.
WATCH: Making contact: A K9 conservation story. This series tells the personal stories of companionship, perseverance and connection of those fighting the scourge of poaching in South Africa, while highlighting the key organisations and protected areas making a difference on the ground (4:53). Click here to watch
The salt pans of Botswana’ Makgadikgadi hold an unusual magic that I’ve heard described as “humbling”, “healing”, or even “disturbing”. What is it about this dusty old lakebed, jammed full of salt and grass and scrub mopane, that makes visitors feel this way? That seems to challenge our sense of self, irreversibly? That draws people back time and time again?In the Makgadikgadi, the skies are huge, and the sense of space is overwhelming. But there is more than the landscape. As part of a team of scientists who have spent time studying the magic of the Makgadikgadi, we have long known that, just below the saltpan surface of the pans lies an ancient story written in stone artefacts, thousands of years ago. Archeologists are now just beginning to find the ability to read it.
Bounded by ancient shorelines, Botswana’s salt pans were once one part of one of Africa’s largest lakes. Running nearly 200km from east to west, this lake covered an area of 66,000km² –about the size of Sri Lanka. The lake has come and gone over the last hundred thousand years as tectonism has reorganised river systems. Natural climate cycles during the last 200,000 years have also periodically brought vastly different rainfall conditions to the region. Today, the site is made up of mostly mud and puddles, with the wettest parts in Sowa Pan in the east supporting an extraordinary diversity of birdlife in the rainy season – including a migration of up to 88,000 pairs of flamingos.
Thousands of flamingos perched on the salt pans
In the dry winter months, most of the surface dries out and firms up – a little like a giant bowl of porridge left out in the sun. Self-drivers know the risks here well: break through the hard-baked porridge top, and it might cost you days of digging, if not your entire vehicle. Many come here for that challenge. Others are drawn by the vast expanse of salt and sky, the baobabs that mark its boundaries, and the 20,000-body strong migration of zebra and wildebeest that covet the Makgadikgadi’s mineral-rich grasslands.
Find out about Makgadikgadi Pans for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.
More recently, however, tourists are coming for another reason. In 2019, a controversial academic paper used mitochondrial genetic evidence to argue that the Makgadikgadi was once the ‘homeland’ of humanity, from which groups of anatomically modern humans migrated between 130,000– 110,000 years ago. That argument has not been persuasive for most scientists working on human origins, but it has thrown a spotlight on a little-known quirk of this ancient lakebed – that it is filled with the stone tools of ancient humans.
For a long time, the difficulties of operating in an ephemerally stable bowl of porridge kept all but the most eager of archaeologists at bay. But, over the last seven years, our small team of international scientists in collaboration with the University of Botswana have painstakingly pieced together thousands of fragments of worked silcrete to try to understand how long humanity has been hanging out in this lakebed and what on earth they might have been doing here.
Remnants of the Late Stone AgeExamining Paleolithic stone tools; handling raw material found in an excavated site
Logging over 80 new Stone Age archaeological sites and artefact scatters on the lakebed, the researchers excavated six of these in detail, stripping back the surface salt rind to carefully map every fragment of stone artefact deposited at the sites. The archaeologists then used an approach known as Chaine Operatoire – reconstructing the operational sequence of the stone tool makers to see what choices those humans were making in the past. How was the tool made? How was it used? Resharpened? Recycled? Why was it discarded?
All the excavated sites had a common theme – they withheld the fleeting remnants of a band of Middle Stone Age humans who sat for a few moments or hours on a dry lake bed, taking time out to fashion tools out of silcrete. Geochemical fingerprinting of both the artefacts and natural outcrops of silcrete in the basin enabled geologists to determine where the material for making the tools had come from. The chemical signatures suggest this was a landscape well-known to Middle Stone Age people, and evidence shows these people would move large lumps of suitable rock between 7 and 55km if they thought it was high enough quality. Nearly all the archaeological finds were made from black silcrete formed from the lake mud, its fine-grained texture perfect for fashioning tools.
Excavation of one of the sitesTaking it all in
The abundance of silcrete in the basin lent itself to perfectionism, with tool-makers happy to discard tools impaired by the slightest mistake. Bungled artefacts were often found a little way from where the rest of the knapped fragments were refitted, and the archaeologists like to joke that they might have been thrown in anger or frustration at the mistake – a 70,000-year-old tantrum recorded in mud and stone. No perfect tools were found at any of the sites – those had presumably been taken away for hunting elsewhere. Neither was there evidence of any of the imperfect remnants used in hunting. These were most likely retooling sites for groups of people rich in time and stone. Sometimes, the knappers produced knives and scrapers, but mostly, they made points that were symmetrical and not too thick, the kind that might be hafted as a spear for hunting. It is hard not to speculate that all those years ago, we too may have once been much like the lions that annually follow the herds of migrating Zebra into the basin today: walking a journey that offered rich rewards.
Sampling for Optically Stimulated Luminescence dating
Perhaps the biggest surprise in this geochemically active basin full of migrating ungulates was how well-preserved these sites were. In some cases, locating where a single human sat and fashioned a tool 75,000 years ago was possible. As well as piecing together the archaeology, our team used Optically Stimulated Luminescence (OSL) dating to reconstruct how and when the landforms and sediments around the sites were deposited. From this, we concluded that several of these sites were rapidly buried by lake sediments not long after they were occupied. They remained buried for thousands of years until sometime in the last few centuries when the lakebed experienced some of the driest conditions of its long and dramatic history. Eroding as vast plumes of dust, removing these ancient lake sediments reveals older surfaces from past dry times. This unique landscape history has allowed the lake to preserve phenomenal snippets of our human story – windows that transcended extraordinary periods to open onto a few tangible moments of our collective past.
Giant hand axes of ancient humans
Time seems compressed in the Makgadikgadi, and it feels like one can almost touch the ghosts of humanity’s ancestors. Sometimes, I watch visitors sit on that lakebed; I see them take in the enormity of that connection. I see them reach out and touch a rock last held by a man or woman who walked here 70,000 years ago. I see them trying to picture a 66,000km² lake, already disturbed by the vastness of billions of stars above their heads, already in awe of the giant Baobabs that have witnessed so many of us come and go over thousands of years. I see their sense of place in the big picture being profoundly destabilised, and I see them clock the extraordinary collective journey of humanity. In a world that is now so obsessively focused on the self, this place provides a very different perspective, one that can be healing, humbling, and disturbing. That is the magic of the Makgadikgadi.
Rhino populations in Kruger National Park continue to decline despite innovative strategies implemented to prevent rhino poaching. The latest population count, reported in the SANParks Annual Report 2022/2023, reveals that the total rhino population has declined by 16.2%, from an estimated 2,458 rhinos in 2021 to 2,060 in 2022.
Despite investing in access control, air support, security staff, specialised detection technology, K9 Units, dehorning and ranger training, 98 rhinos were lost to poaching in Kruger National Park in 2022. This is a decrease of 49.7% in poaching compared to the 195 rhinos lost in 2021.
“Innovative strategies implemented in Kruger National Park, which has historically borne the brunt of this scourge, led to a decline in poaching numbers by 49,74% compared to the previous year,” says Pam Yako, Chairperson of the Board for SANParks.
7.1% of the white rhino population was lost to poaching and 3.4% of the black rhino population.
There were an estimated 1,850 (between 1,711 and 1,988*) white rhinos in Kruger by the end of 2022, compared to the 2,250 (between 1,986 and 2,513*) counted in 2021. For black rhinos, the 2022 survey estimated 210 black rhinos present in Kruger, compared to 208 for the 2021 reporting period*.
(*Editorial note:All population estimates are given a margin of error, as population counts over large areas carry uncertainty. When calculating the percentage decline/increase, these margins of error are included in the statistical analysis. Although the 2022/2023 annual report states that for “the past three years, black rhinos remained at an estimated 210 individuals,” actual estimates from these reporting periods were 208 for 2021 and 202 for 2020.)
SANParks also reported that the lagging effects of drought contributed to the continuing decline in white rhino numbers. In contrast, black rhinos did not experience the drought effect, and births were slightly higher than total losses.
The Kruger National Park Rhino Management Plan zones the park into core areas with suitable rhino habitats. In these core conservation zones, there was an overall decline of 19.58% in the rhino population, “primarily due to white rhinos leaving these areas in response to poaching and moving to known localities of suitable habitat,” according to the report. On a positive note, the black rhino population in these core conservation zones increased by 12% since 2020, and substantial increases in black rhino populations were recorded in certain priority zones.
SANParks referenced an initiative to establish rhino strongholds outside Kruger to encourage range expansion. Furthermore, 702 rhinos were dehorned in Kruger, and by the end of 2022, approximately 70% of the park’s rhinos had no horns. (Dehorning has been highlighted as an effective strategy in reducing poaching).
702 rhinos were dehorned in Kruger in 2022
Despite the decrease in poaching incidents in Kruger, reports have shown a shift in poaching away from the Kruger National Park to private reserves in KwaZulu-Natal. However, no rhinos were lost to poaching in the six other SANPArks-operated parks hosting rhinos (Addo Elephant, Karoo, Mapungubwe, Marakele, Mokala and Mountain Zebra National Parks). The rhino populations in these parks increased by 7%.
The annual report also highlights cause for concern regarding snaring for bushmeat in and around parks. SANParks removed one snare from a black rhino, treated 17 injured white and two black rhinos and recovered five white rhino orphans in Kruger, stating that many of these cases were linked to snaring targeting other species.
SANParks also reported that it has started removing disease-free rhinos from Kruger (cleared of bovine tuberculosis), but “this has limited options and can affect the dynamics between the remaining rhinos.”
While poaching rates have shown a significant decline, an analysis of Kruger National Park’s overall population estimates over the past ten years indicates a continued downward trend in rhino numbers despite an increase in anti-poaching initiatives. In the past ten years, Kruger’s total rhino population has decreased by 78%, from 9,383 in 2013 to 2,060 by the end of 2022.
“It has become evident that South Africa needs a species recovery plan for white rhino that considers the support required for conserving rhino across extensive wildlife systems,” says Minister of the Department of Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment Barbara Creecy. “Partnerships with private rhino owners will be important to the plan. SANParks has been requested to lead the development of such a recovery plan as a key element of its work in this coming financial year.”
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Deadly electric fences + East vs Southern African safari
We are deep into my favourite safari months in Southern Africa. October and November see searing heat and clouds of dust – keeping most holidaymakers away and reserving the epic wildlife encounters for connoisseurs. The lack of fresh water sees wildlife congregated near the few remaining drinking spots, and high drama as tempers flare and predators cash in. Welcome early rains may take the edge off the heat and dust for a day or two, but the action continues unabated.
Meanwhile my sources tell me that elephant poaching is on the rise again in northern Botswana. Apparently the Zambian syndicates that have stripped Botswana of her rhino population have taken many tons of raw ivory in the last few months – including one of the few remaining tuskers (giant elephants with tusks that weigh 100 pounds each side). Northern Kruger National Park is also under siege, with lions and vultures being targeted. Perhaps one day our governments will protect their revenue-producing, job-creating wildlife with as much passion as they do their salaries and errant colleagues …
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
What is the deadliest cat in Africa? The answer may surprise you. (Unless, of course, you’ve seen the videos of these cats surfacing in recent years).
Lions, mightily ferocious, have a hunting success rate of 19-25%. Leopards kill their targets 38% of the time. One of the most lethal predators in Africa, cheetahs, who snap up their prey on 58% of their hunts, could almost be named the greatest hunting cat. But the crown for deadliest feline in Africa goes to its tiniest: the black-footed cat. Weighing in at around 2kg, these cats have a hunting success rate of 60%. Though they may resemble domestic tabby cats, and their bright eyes and bushy tails make them incredibly endearing, these little killers capture more prey in a single night than a leopard does in six months.
Despite its status as one of Africa’s deadliest animals, these fatal felines are extremely rare and under-researched. Little data is available on black-footed cats, making conservation of the species very difficult. They are so tiny that they cannot even trigger regular camera traps. Thankfully, a small group of scientists is putting this “anthill tiger” on the map, having established a database on the cats and advocating for their protection. You can learn more about these kitty killer machines here.
Below, check out our handy guide that will help you choose between an East or Southern African safari, and read our story on the animal toll of electric fences.
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Pangolins, steenboks, and large reptile species, including rock monitors and tortoises – were the species most likely to be killed by electric fences in a new study published in the African Journal of Wildlife Research. According to the author, body size, defensive behaviour, and seasonal flux, all play a role in influencing the risk of an animal having a fatal encounter with an electric fence.
Throughout Africa, fences (and many other anthropogenic structures such as roads) have changed the face of the natural landscape. In some instances, they play an essential role in safeguarding protected areas, conserving endangered species, and reducing human-wildlife conflict. Equally, the deleterious effects of these barriers on wildlife regarding habitat fragmentation, migration and seasonal resource access are relatively well documented.
In much of southern Africa, electrified fencing is utilised by both the state and private sectors to delineate property boundaries and constrain animal movement. In South Africa, private reserves, game ranches (usually for hunting purposes), and intensive wildlife farming operations have multiplied in recent decades, with a concurrent increase in electric fencing. Previous studies have raised concerns about the dangers that these electric fences pose to ground pangolin and tortoises. However, while the potential adverse effects of electric fences have long been known to reserve managers and ecologists, research quantifying the threat and risk factors to other species remains scant.
Slow-moving tortoises retract into their shells when shocked, and therefore remain in contact with the live wire
The new research was conducted on the Kalahari Oryx Private Game Farm in the Northern Cape Province of South Africa. 108km of electric fencing was monitored over nearly five years. During this time, Dr Darren Pietersen of the University of Pretoria recorded 782 wildlife interactions with the electric fence involving 43 vertebrates, including mammal, reptile, and bird species. Two hundred thirteen of these encounters were fatal. The species with the highest mortality rates were rock monitors (59), steenboks (40), pangolins (28), serrated tent tortoises (28) and kori bustards (15). Naturally, animals found entangled with the fence but still alive were rescued and either released or rehabilitated, including six pangolins, two rock monitors, two kori bustards and two red hartebeests.
Small wildlife, including amphibians and reptiles, are often victims of electric fences
Overall, Pietersen found that reptiles were most likely to be killed by an interaction with electrified fencing, followed by birds and then mammals. He identified three critical factors that influenced the outcome of such an encounter – size, season and defensive behaviour. Very small species, such as rodents and lizards, can pass beneath the wire strands unharmed, and large animals may damage the fence but are unlikely to become entangled or electrocuted. Medium-sized animals such as pangolins and monitor lizards large enough to touch the wires but still small enough to become entangled are most at risk. The wet season also increased the incidence of electrocution, possibly due to increased reptile activity and the dispersal behaviour of mammals. The moisture levels may also have contributed to the greater conductivity of the animals and the ground.
The effect of defensive behaviour is most clearly demonstrated by pangolins and tortoises, both slow-moving and which freeze when threatened. They then curl into a ball (pangolins) or retract into their shells (tortoises). As a result, they remain in contact with the live wires, subjecting them to continuous shocks until they eventually succumb. Of particular interest in this study was that rock monitors were the most frequent victims of fences. This was likely due to a low number of tortoises in the study site, but it is an important finding as rock monitors have not featured as a risk species in previous research.
This paper adds to the steadily growing body of available data on the impact of electric fences on African wildlife. The statistics are staggering: previous research by Pietersen and other authors estimates that over 30,000 reptiles are killed every year. Possibly worse still, they estimate that annual fence mortalities include between 377 and 1,028 ground pangolins in South Africa alone. That makes electric fences one of the greatest threats facing an already beleaguered species.
An impala shocked by an electric fence
There are well-documented mitigation measures that could help to reduce the number of wildlife mortalities. These include turning the fences off at certain times or purposely creating entry and exit points in the fence for the passage of smaller animals. “Smart energisers” can also monitor individual strands and turn off the current to low strands if there is any evidence of a trapped animal (if current is repeatedly drawn from that strand, for example). Raising the lowest electrified strand by just 30cm will also allow most reptiles and pangolins to pass unhindered beneath it. Many of these strategies are cheap and easy to implement, and widespread education is necessary to ensure that all stakeholders – from private reserves to livestock farmers – are brought on board to help protect the continent’s smaller and more vulnerable species.
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Tanzania’s cheetahs + salt pans + hierarchy of fear
Life in the bushveld is tough! We have monkeys pillaging our attempted vegetable garden, kudus snapping young planted trees in their dry season desperation to find food, leopards snacking on pet dogs, squirrels chewing the roof lining, spitting cobras and scorpions in the garden…
I would not have it any other way.
My late mom told me that, when I was about eight or ten, I lectured our priest for using leopards as symbols for evil during his Sunday sermon. Apparently I was incensed at his reckless symbolisation of one of nature’s superstars. I have been swimming upstream ever since 🙂
My point is this. Enjoy every second of your life, every glimpse of nature doing her thing, every hint of changing seasons and sniff of rain in the air. This is it. The great safari of life. Peace out
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
What is the scariest sound in the African savannah? The answer is fairly obvious…
The sound of humans – of course.
Researchers studying the hierarchy of fear in mammals in the South African bushveld revealed that wildlife were more fearful of the sound of human voices than that of lions. Researchers placed cameras and audio speakers near waterholes in Greater Kruger, and played a series of sounds – including birdsong, dogs barking, gunshots, lions growling, and humans talking – to animals passing by. Nineteen species fled instantly when hearing human voices, and reacted more quickly and fearfully than when hearing the snarls of lions.
Why? Because, according to the researchers, humans are “super predators”. We humans are lethal, and dangerous – evoking the greatest fear in animals. Hard to argue that one.
Below, you can check out our stories for this week. We’re revealing the secrets of southern Tanzania’s cheetahs, and giving you the low-down on all there is to know about visiting Botswana’s salt pans.
Longing for an escape to warmer climates? To lounge beside the ocean? Here’s your chance to dive in and spend your holiday in paradise! Get in touch with our experts to book your balmy safari.
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Saving lions
You can help save African lions! Africa’s free-roaming lions are under threat from human-wildlife conflict. These lions are an essential part of the continent’s ecosystems, its tourism industry, and its livelihood.
Thankfully, the Southern African Conservation Trust (SACT) and partners have embarked on a project to conserve lions. They require GPS satellite collars to track the natural movement of lions between protected areas, and to develop lion management plans. These collars provide data to computer simulations, allowing all parties to monitor lion prides on park boundaries. They also provide an early-warning system to local communities about the whereabouts of lions, allowing them to react quickly to potential problems and avoid human-lion conflict.
You can help to save these wild lions by making a contribution to the SACT through our Collar a Lion campaign.
Find out more about how you can help save free-roaming lions and what your sponsorship will include.
WATCH: Our safari experts view November as the month of variety and for seeking out localised migrations and other unique safari experiences. From the world’s largest mammal migration, to fine weather in the Cape Winelands and low-season rates in Madagascar – here’s what’s on offer for your November safari (1:10). Click here to watch
In the heart of Botswana lies a land so strange, so otherworldly, that to visit is like walking across the surface of the moon. The air shimmers, and white clay crackles underfoot, baked hard by an unforgiving sun. From horizon to horizon, emptiness stretches for endless miles, broken only by the occasional stand of palm trees that stand stark against the sky. Botswana’s salt pans are among the largest on earth. For those who make the journey for this unique African safari, the reward is a sense of absolute isolation and remoteness against the backdrop of some of Africa’s most hauntingly beautiful landscapes.
Salt of the earth
Once upon a time, the mighty Okavango River poured south from Angola and emptied into a vast paleolake larger than Switzerland – Lake Makgadikgadi. Then seismic activity shook southern Africa, changing the shape of the earth’s surface and blocking the river’s flow. Lake Makgadikgadi gradually dried up, leaving behind a dry and apparently barren wasteland. Though often referred to as just Makgadikgadi Pan, the region comprises a series of salt pans stretching for hundreds of miles in every direction, interspersed by sandy desert and covering some 16,058 km2(1.6 million hectares) of the Kalahari Basin. The largest are Ntwetwe Pan, Sua/Sowa Pan and Nxai Pan.
The baobabs of Kubu Island
Rising from the flats of the pan-like fossilised Leviathans are iconic igneous rock islands dotted with the squat forms of ancient baobabs. The most famous of these are Kubu and Kukome islands in Sua Pan. Kubu Island is so important to Botswanan heritage that it is one of the country’s national monuments. Hidden here (and scattered throughout the pans system) lies evidence of our human history in the form of stone tools, walls and other relics. Some of these even pre-date the era of Homo sapiens, and several scientists have argued that Makgadikgadi should be considered the birthplace of humankind.
Though the landscape is rugged, it is anything but desolate: the rims of the pans are fringed with palm fronds, frayed umbrella thorn trees and scrubby savanna, where desert-adapted wildlife eeks out an existence in the extremes. And every year, when the first storm clouds darken the skies, the parched dustbowl transforms into a lush paradise, flushed with a soft blanket of green. Drawn to this profusion of mineral-rich grasses, zebras arrive in their thousands, following the ancient pathways of Africa’s longest terrestrial migration. They are accompanied by herds of wildebeest, oryx and other antelopes, while resident and nomadic predators alike stalk hot on their heels. Fed by the nearby ephemeral Nata River, the pans fill with water, attracting flocks of water birds, including ducks, geese, pelicans, and flamingos.
An aerial view of the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans
Of twin parks and salt pans
Much of this vital habitat is protected by a twin pair of national parks: the 3,900 km2 (390,000 hectares) Makgadikgadi Pans National Park and the 2,590 km2 (259,000 hectares) Nxai Pan National Park to its north.
Makgadikgadi Pans National Park covers part of Ntwetwe Pan, with the remainder of the park consisting of grasslands and a scattering of smaller salt pans. The Boteti River runs along its western boundary, acting as the only permanent water source for miles around. Even at the height of the dry season, the Boteti is an oasis for thirsty wildlife, including throngs of elephant, giraffe, zebra and wildebeest.
Nxai Pan National Park is home to seven impressive baobabs made famous in the 19th-century painting by British artist Thomas Baines. This tranquil oasis had provided him shelter as he accompanied pioneer James Chapman on a journey through the Kalahari towards Victoria Falls. The “Baines’ Baobabs” still stand, almost unchanged over 160 years later.
Elephants drink at the waters of Nxai Pan
Botswana’s great migrations
Unbeknownst to most people, Botswana is home to two impressive migrations, both of which centre around the Makgadikgadi-Nxai Pan ecosystem. These migrations offer astounding (often less crowded) wildlife sightings and testify to the genetically programmed instinct to migrate. Across the continent, fences have halted most of Africa’s large mammal migrations across the continent. But when veterinary fences in Botswana were moved in the mid-2000s, researchers and conservationists were astounded to see some of the zebra herds return to two ancient migratory patterns.
The first of these is the Chobe-Nxai Pan zebra migration. At a round trip of over 1,000km, scientists have only recently recognised it as the longest terrestrial migration in Africa. The herds spend the harshest of the dry months around the Chobe River flood plains from June until early November before over 20,000 zebras begin the journey southwards. These herds disperse throughout the Nxai Pan National Park and remain there for about three months, from December to February, gathering their strength before beginning the return journey north.
The Okavango-Makgadikgadi migratory route is a shorter and smaller migration that involves around 15,000 zebras that complete a 500km roundtrip each year. These animals spend the dry season around the Okavango Delta floodwaters before moving to the Makgadikgadi Pans area when the rains fall.
Zebras have once again returned to their migratory routes centering around the Makgadikgadi-Nxai Pan ecosystem
Survivors of the salt pans
Even once the zebras have departed from the salt pans, the Makgadikgadi and Nxai Pans regions still thrum with life. Herds of springbok, impala, giraffe oryx, eland and hartebeest are resident all year round. Leopards lurk in the denser forests and along the riverbank, while lions of the black-maned Kalahari stock spend their days in the shade and cover enormous distances at night. Cheetahs and wild dogs (painted wolves) frequent the open grasslands, and hyenas of both the brown and spotted varieties abound. Of the smaller predators, black-backed jackal are ubiquitous, as are the adorable families of bat-eared foxes. Aardwolves and aardvarks emerge at dusk, and some lucky visitors are even treated to the sight of the elusive striped polecat.
One of the region’s major attractions is the groups of habituated meerkats. These charming little characters have learned to treat visitors as part of their everyday environment, sometimes even climbing onto delighted guests to gain a higher vantage point.
Makgadikgadi has long held a reputation as a sterling birding destination – a concept that might seem strange in light of its harsh desert aspect. Yet during those rare years when the rains are good, and even the largest pans fill to the brim, the region turns into a wetland paradise, including the associated birdlife. Flocks of greater and lesser flamingos arrive in droves, decorating the pans in a delicate shade of pink, accompanied by trawling great white and pink-backed pelicans, ducks and geese. The community-managed Nata Bird Sanctuary on the northern edge of Sua Pan protects one of the world’s largest breeding sites of lesser and greater flamingos.
Wattled cranes, red-knobbed coots, pied avocets, African spoonbills, grey-headed gulls, white-winged terns and a variety of storks, ibises, and herons are all additional waterbird highlights. Away from the water, long-legged secretary birds stalk through the grasslands, and ostriches display their motley feathers.
Flamingos fly over the Makgadikgadi Salt Pan
Explore & stay at the salt pans
Want to go on a safari to Botswana’s salt pans? To find lodges in or near Makgadikgadi, search for our ready-made packages and get in touch with our travel team, scroll down to after this story.
Botswana’s salt pans are a rare safari gem in that they are equally spectacular as a wet or dry season destination. While the rainfall of the summer months (between late November to early March) does make the pans themselves largely inaccessible, the experience of desert-turned-sanctuary is hard to beat. Many of the herbivores give birth around this time of year, and migrant animals arrive by hoof or wing in their thousands. It is as though the very land itself breathes a sigh of relief, refreshed and sufficiently revived to survive the long dry months ahead.
Taking a bath at Nxai Pan
By contrast, the dry season from March to October offers the best opportunity to take advantage of the escapism for which the salt pans are so famous. The scenery is at its most evocative at this time of year, and, with the ground once again flat and hard, visitors can set out on foot, horseback, 4×4 or quadbike and head out onto the vast salt flats. Take a few steps in any direction and embrace a sense of isolation and space so profound that it seems to warp time itself. Even better are nights spent under the diamond-studded skies, enjoying some of the best star-gazing on the continent.
Budget campsites are available, and a self-drive adventure through the salt pans region is an excellent option for the well-prepared traveller. However, Makgadikgadi is famous for its more luxurious lodge options, many of which are styled as a romantic homage to a forgotten safari era. A stay at one of these lodges means that you have an expert guide at your disposal, along with many other salt pan-exclusive activities to add to the safari wish list.
With wild cheetah populations declining, the science of their conservation requires an understanding of their distribution across protected and unprotected landscapes. However, within Africa and East Africa in particular, studies on cheetahs are strongly geographically biased, with much of the research conducted in a handful of well-studied areas. In 2021, a multidisciplinary team of conservation scientists set out to thoroughly investigate the Ruaha-Rungwa ecosystem in southern Tanzania for the first time.
The Ruaha-Rungwa ecosystem extends over 50,000km² (500,000 hectares) of savannah habitat. It includes the Ruaha National Park, Rungwa, Kizigo and Muhesi Game Reserves, as well as surrounding “Wildlife Management Areas” and “Game Controlled Areas”. The level of protection and anthropogenic pressure varied across the different landscapes. Though the Ruaha-Rungwa ecosystem has long been believed to be home to Tanzania’s second-largest cheetah population, little empirical or current data existed to support this claim prior to this research. (Tip: to book your safari to see the cheetahs of Tanzania’s Serengeti, click here.)
In their ground-breaking study, the scientists used various methods to assess cheetah numbers, distributions and densities. The first involved using camera traps placed in different habitats across the study area and set up during the dry seasons of 2018 and 2019. The cheetahs photographed were individually identified using their unique spot patterns. This approach allowed conclusions to be drawn about the densities in the different habitats. The Ruaha Carnivore Project had also previously deployed camera traps in some of the surrounding unprotected village lands as part of a community engagement programme. The data from these 43 traps was analysed using the same approach.
The researchers also relied upon expert trackers to systematically record any tracks from cheetahs spotted on vehicle-based transects conducted throughout all protected areas and the unprotected eastern village landscapes. And finally, all photo-tourism guides operating in Ruaha National Park recorded all cheetah sightings in 2018 as part of a collaborative effort with the Ruaha Carnivore Project. The guides recorded their GPS position and took digital images that were later identified to an individual level. (In their conclusion, the researchers suggest that a relationship between scientists and tourism operators is an under-appreciated and cost-effective data source when monitoring large predators in Africa.)
In combining the data from these techniques, the scientists were able to draw several conclusions about the Ruaha-Rungwa’s cheetah population. Their findings confirmed that cheetahs are present in western Ruaha National Park and the contiguous Rungwa South Open Area, whereas previously, these areas were listed as within “possible” cheetah range. In fact, cheetah were found to be widely distributed throughout the entire ecosystem across various habitats administered by an array of land management strategies. These included areas reliant on either phototourism or hunting for revenue and surrounding rural villages.
However, the cheetah appear to occur at low densities, so while they may be found across a large area, this does not necessarily equate to a large population size. Of those observed by guides in Ruaha National Park in 2018, only 11 individuals were identified, belonging to four separate groups. The spoor and camera trap data yielded similar results. The authors theorise this may be due to “biotic” factors rather than anthropogenic pressures. Most of the recorded cheetah were found to be utilising miombo woodland habitats, which adds to a growing body of evidence that woodlands and regions of dense vegetation, rather than just grasslands, are valuable habitats for cheetah. However, in the arid Ruaha-Rungwa landscape, these woodlands are associated with low prey densities, which would impact cheetah densities.
One particular cheetah was captured on two camera traps 64km apart in under two months, providing evidence of wide-ranging movement within this population. As such, the authors conclude by emphasising the urgent need for more surveys to the west of the Ruaha-Rungwa landscapes towards Katavi National Park, especially as this region would be vital for connectivity between populations.
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Hybrid elephants + Lake Manyara + prime-season Bots special
Last night, a lion roared closer to our home than usual – the husky groan reverberating through the thin night air. Lizz and I wondered if this individual had breached our wildlife estate fence and entered from the neighbouring Greater Kruger. We always keep close tabs on our dogs at night because of neighbourhood leopards, so after a brief moment of anxiety (prey species instinct?), we settled back to enjoy the moment.
We live in a brick house in a well-managed estate, so lions are a welcome presence – entertainment, if you will. Many of Africa’s rural villagers are not so fortunate. They have basic accommodations made of mud, sticks and grass, and their livestock spend the nights crowded into makeshift kraals – scant protection against a pride of lions. For them, lions represent a significant threat to lives and livelihoods. No wonder, then, that human-wildlife conflict is the biggest threat to lion populations. There used to be wild lions across Europe, but they disappeared as the human population exploded. Africa’s human population, too, is expanding. And yet Africa still has wild, free-roaming lion populations – a testament to our rural people.
I cannot stress enough the importance of wild, free-roaming lions for Africa’s ecosystems. And for her tourism industry – a vital source of empowerment, jobs and upskilling for local people. To learn more, please visit our website, search for ‘lions’, and enjoy years of science-based reporting.
Did you know that scientists have just discovered a new species of pangolin? The extraordinary tale of its discovery speaks to the sorry state of affairs around these mammals: the new species was identified when analysing pangolin scales confiscated from the illegal trade. The investigation of these scales revealed genetic markers not seen in any known species – this undiscovered pangolin had fallen into the hands of poachers.
With only eight previously known species of pangolin (four in Africa, and four in Asia), the addition of a ninth species – named Manis mysteria – expands our knowledge of their diversity and evolutionary history. Conservationists can now focus on protecting this newly identified species, working to tackle the supply and demand of the pangolin trade and ensuring the survival of pangolins.
In our first story below, we continue our look into interesting species, with a study focusing on identifying hybrid elephants. Plus, you can read all about Lake Manyara National Park, the perfect base from which to launch your Tanzania safari.
Fancy a mobile safari in Botswana? Book now and you’ll save big time. Or plan that incredible family holiday to Maasai Mara, and kids will stay free! Read on, and reach out to our travel team now!
EARLY-BIRD SPECIAL – Botswana classic: fully catered mobile safari – $5,990 pp (save 10%)
Explore all of northern Botswana during prime season on a fully catered mobile safari. Beginning in Kasane and ending in Maun, and led by experienced guides, you’ll track big cats and wild dogs, and meander along the Chobe River. Book this authentic Botswana safari experience today and don’t miss out on this early-bird special, high-seasonrate of US$5,990pp, valid from 7–17 July 2024.
Kid’s stay free at Angama Mara, Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya
Stay on the edge of the Great Rift Valley and experience heart-stopping wildlife scenes year-round. Two children under the age of 12 stay free between 5 January – 31 May, and 1 October – 22 December 2024.
Angama Mara is a remarkable safari lodge overlooking Kenya’s Maasai Mara – offering a thrilling experience for the whole family.
Mega four-country safari
Our safari client, Gail Robins-Browne, and company, recently returned from a mega-safari (38 days) to Congo-Brazzaville, Rwanda, Uganda and Kenya. Gail enjoyed a boat trip on the Nile River, breakfast on the Mara River, kayaking and spotting forest elephants in Odzala-Kokoua National Park, and walking in Laikipia. Here is what Gail had to say about her experience:
“The itinerary planned was complex as it included Congo-Brazzaville, Uganda and Kenya. Nevertheless, the resulting trip was excellent. Christian (AG safari expert) was very responsive to all our queries. We had many amazing experiences, excellent guides and all camp accommodations – while varied – were very satisfactory!”
WATCH: The Kwakuchinja Wildlife Corridor allows thousands of animals to migrate between two national parks: Lake Manyara and Tarangire. The Chem Chem Association is working to stem the tide of poaching and human-wildlife conflict along this ancient corridor. Here’s how (7:45). Click here to watch
Africa is renowned for its spectacular sunrises and sunsets, blazing in a tapestry of red and gold that inspires artists and photographers alike. And, of course, these twilight displays are complemented perfectly by specific settings. One such example can be experienced in Tanzania’s Lake Manyara National Park, where the brilliance of light on the water blends into the rosy blush of over a million flamingos. There is no better way to set the tone for the majesty of a Tanzanian safari.
The world around Lake Manyara
Lake Manyara National Park is named for the eponymous lake along its eastern edge, and two-thirds of the 325 km2 (32,500 hectares) park extend over this shallow lake’s surface. The remainder of the park includes an astonishing variety of habitats sandwiched between the lake and the dramatic hills of the Great Rift escarpment to the west. The park is also part of the larger UNESCO Lake Manyara Biosphere Reserve, which incorporates the entire lake basin. To the south, along the escarpment, the national park is buffered by the Marang Forest Reserve, and both the Manyara Ranch and the Kwa Kuchinja wildlife migration corridor link Manyara to Tarangire National Park in the east. These vital connections allow the park to function as part of an enormous migratory ecosystem that includes the Engaruka Basin, Maasai Steppe, Lake Natron and Mount Kilimanjaro.
Lake Manyara’s water levels rise and fall seasonally, revealing vast salt flats in the dry season
The lake itself has no outflow but is fed by underground springs and streams originating in the Ngorongoro highlands, eventually tumbling off the escarpment walls in a series of delicate waterfalls and joining to form nine little rivers. Manyara is described as a soda lake, meaning the water is very alkaline, creating perfect breeding conditions for the hundreds of thousands of flamingos wading along the shoreline (more on these below). Water levels rise and fall seasonally, revealing miles of salt flats during the dry season. Even at the height of the rainy season, the lake only reaches depths of around three metres and is only a few centimetres deep across most of its area.
In the park’s northern section, the same underground water that supplies the lake also supports an unusual and verdant groundwater forest. Apart from offering welcome shade in tropical temperatures, the dense stands of towering mahogany and lush fig trees are a breeding site for thousands of pink-backed pelicans. A bit further south, the forest gives way to open Acacia (Vachellia/Senegalia) woodland savannah, where the park’s elusive but famed tree-climbing lions are sometimes found. Thick clumps of sedges, luminous yellow fever trees and wild date palms line the lake shores, river systems and swamps.
Lake Manyara is known for its tree-climbing lions. For more photos from Frederica Vinci, follow @rica_red on Instagram
Along the park’s western boundary, the escarpment rises sharply over a thousand metres, the steep slopes dotted with the lumpy forms of ancient baobabs and the unmistakable spikey forms of pencil cactus (Euphorbia tirucalli), for which the park is named. “Emanyara” is the local name for this succulent plant, traditionally used to create fences around rural dwellings. The park also has hot springs at Maji Moto (literally “hot water”), where water bubbles out over 60˚C.
The national park was established to safeguard the region’s substantial elephant population and tree-climbing lions. Lake Manyara and Tarangire National Parks are home to some of Tanzania’s highest elephant densities, and at certain times of the year, there are grey pachyderms seemingly around every corner. The tree-climbing lions are also a major drawcard, though they have probably since been eclipsed by the lions of the Serengeti and Queen Elizabeth National Park in Uganda, which are also often observed leopard-like in the boughs of trees. Exactly why some lion populations display this arboreal tendency remains unconfirmed, though it may be motivated by a desire to escape tsetse flies and other biting pests.
Lake Manyara is home to some of Tanzania’s highest elephant densities
Of course, to focus solely on elephants and lions would undermine the other equally thrilling animal offerings of the park. For instance, several habituated troops of olive baboons provide endless hours of entertainment, and vast herds of buffalo, wildebeest, zebra and Thomson’s and Grant’s gazelles move across the grasslands. Squadrons of banded mongoose trot across the park in search of insect prey, and servals stalk the swamps while nimble klipspringer pairs leap along the cliffs above them. Bat-eared foxes, civets and honey badgers are commonly encountered on night drives in the park. Even otters lurk along the rivers that feed the lake, and jacuzzi-loving hippos languish in a pool below the park’s hot springs.
Vast herds of zebra, wildebeest and buffalo occupy Lake Manyara’s grasslands
Flamingos and their feathered friends
Yet for all that Lake Manyara National Park offers fantastic mammal viewing against a magnificent backdrop, the park’s feathered occupants are the park’s true stars. In particular, Lake Manyara is famous as a gathering site for hundreds of thousands of migratory greater and lesser flamingos. One study estimated nearly two million lesser flamingos and around 40,000 greater flamingos had assembled in the lake, though numbers vary considerably each year, and global flamingo populations are declining. The warm alkaline waters of soda lakes across East Africa favour the growth of the algae upon which the flamingos feed. The shallow, caustic waters are the perfect place for them to construct mud nests away from predators.
Millions of migratory flamingos gather in the lake
Like neighbouring Tarangire National Park, Lake Manyara is one of Tanzania’s top birding hotspots. Naturally, the lake and surrounding rivers extend exceptional waterbird sightings during the wet seasons, including flocks of clumsy pelicans, elegant cormorants, gaudy grey crowned cranes, spoonbills, herons of every shape and size and an eclectic collection of storks ranging from motley marabous to the stately saddle-billed stork. Away from the water, the chatter of noisy silvery-cheeked hornbills fills the forest, and majestic Verreaux’s eagles haunt the cliffs. Vultures like the critically endangered white-backed and Rüppel’s ride the thermals, while pairs of Ayre’s hawk eagles hunt helmeted guineafowl.
Lake Manyara hosts thousands of pink-backed pelicans. which breed in dense stands of towering mahogany and lush fig trees
Explore & stay in Lake Manyara
Lake Manyara is just two hours’ drive from Arusha on good roads. While accommodation inside the park is luxurious (and limited), there are many options along its fringes to suit most budgets.
Guided night game drives are allowed in the park
Like much of East Africa, Manyara experiences two rainy seasons: the “short” rains in November and the “long” rains between March and May. For all that the wet months can make traversing the park more challenging, they coincide with the arrival of many migratory bird species, including the flamingos. This time of year is also when the park is arguably at its most scenic: the lake is full, the vegetation verdant and the cliffs of the escarpment covered in a gleaming web of waterfalls.
Apart from the usual vehicle-based activities, there is also a canopy walk on narrow bridges through the treetops of the groundwater forest, which is especially good for birders searching for forest specials. And, assuming the lake is high enough, canoe safaris offer a different perspective and the best way to admire the escarpment from the water.
Hundreds of giraffes dot the plains surrounding the lake (composite image)
Final thoughts on Lake Manyara
The Lake Manyara safari experience is lowkey and less frenetic than the wildlife extravaganza of the Serengeti or Ngorongoro. Yet, this is not a reason to dismiss or overlook this hidden gem of a national park, which offers an intimate and beautiful destination to bookend your once-in-a-lifetime safari.
Aerial view of Lake Manyara
* Note that seasonal changes (and periods of heavy rainfall and drought) alter lake levels, grasslands and the movement of wildlife.
There are two species of African elephant – the savannah elephant (Loxodonta africana) and the forest elephant (Loxodonta cyclotis). As the names imply, the two generally occupy distinct habitats and are theoretically easily distinguishable. However, forest and savannah elephants are known to produce fertile hybrids in regions where their habitats overlap, particularly in Kibale National Park in Uganda. Visual differentiation between the different species and hybrids is an essential aspect of research into their behavioural and ecological variations. Now, a newly published study from Kibale has laid the groundwork for this process.
Astonishingly, despite decades of genetic evidence, forest elephants were only recognised as a separate species (rather than a subspecies of the savannah elephant) by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature at the start of 2021. The reasons for the delay in their recognition were complex, but the existence of known fertile hybrids played a significant role.
In order to investigate the phenotype (the physical appearance) of the hybrids, the researchers first had to establish the most important (and easily assessed) differences between forest and savannah elephants. This they did by comparing nearly 300 reference images of elephants across multiple forest and savannah areas in Africa. As the direct study of shy elephant populations can be challenging, they aimed to identify morphological criteria that could be easily assessed on camera trap images. They also selected features that did not require precise measurements. Ultimately, six morphological criteria were identified: the position of the lobe of the ear in relation to the mandible, the distance between tusks and trunk, the tusk orientation (both in profile and when viewed face-on), the indentations of the temporal region/shape of the forehead and the curvature of the spine. The researchers were able to distinguish between forest and savannah elephants with 90% certainty using these criteria.
Both forest and savannah elephants are found in Kibale National Park, but little was known about the proportions of each species or the number of hybrids. Consequently, the next step of this study was to scrutinise the physical appearance of all elephants in the forested Sebitoli area of northern Kibale. Analysis of 1,408 videos from camera traps revealed that 36.8% of the elephants matched the savannah phenotype, 12.1% the forest phenotype and 51.1% an intermediate phenotype between the two. The latter probably includes the hybrids.
The difficulty arises because elephant hybrids are fertile, meaning that multiple levels of hybridisation are possible (a pure savannah elephant could cross with a pure forest elephant, or two hybrids could breed and so on). In addition, any population always has a degree of individual variation. Furthermore, forest elephants are known as a “paedomorphic form” of the savannah elephant. This means adult forest elephants more strongly resemble young savannah elephants, making it challenging to create a one-size-fits-all set of criteria.
Thus, the authors recommend further study combining genetic analysis and phenotypic characteristics. However, while genetic methods are precise, they are expensive and time-consuming, so the goal should be creating an accurate “species assignment key” as a simple tool to distinguish savannah, forest and hybrid elephants. The authors emphasise the importance of this process in terms of conservation efforts. The forest elephant is classified as Critically Endangered, and the savannah elephant is Endangered. Any effective conservation actions require “precise information on the biology, behaviour and reproduction of each species”, which makes identifying them essential.
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You can save lions + are Kruger rhinos safe?
Now and then I will ask you to break through the scroll of modern life to make a REAL DIFFERENCE on a specific issue. Today is such a day.
Dispersing male lions are the genetic lifeline for Africa’s rapidly diminishing free-roaming lion populations. They leave the pride at about two to three years of age – often forced out by the pride male/s – to team up with other outcast males to find territory with food and females. When you hear about lions that have ‘escaped’ from protected areas it’s often dispersing young males doing what nature intended. Many don’t get to sire future generations – this is nature’s plan to ensure that only the fittest survive to strengthen the gene pool.
There are plenty of natural reasons why many dispersing male lions don’t make the cut – but, increasingly, humankind is a significant factor. Human-wildlife conflict is probably the biggest threat they face – humans killing lions that threaten their livestock. And who can blame Africa’s rural villagers? They are following the example set by others across this precious planet. Another is the removal of habitat and prey species by humans as we ‘develop’ the remaining wild areas and create islands of our protected areas. A further threat is trophy hunters killing free-roaming male lions as they disperse. We have got to the point where every dispersing male lion needs to be protected. Killing them off for fun and ego is not conservation, no matter how powerful and aggressive the trophy hunting lobby is.
This is where you come in: Whatever the reasons that prevent male lions from playing their intended role, scientists need more information about their dispersal habits. Team Africa Geographic has dug deep into our pockets to sponsor a lion collar; you can too. Perhaps team up with friends or colleagues, or donate even just a small amount – it all helps. Please join us to empower researchers to better protect Africa’s iconic free-roaming lions.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Did you know that two African gems have just been added to UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites? The forest massif ofOdzala-Kokoua National Park in Congo-Brazzaville, which protects an enormous section of Central Africa’s rainforests and its critically endangered forest elephants, has been added as a new site (you can find safaris to Odzala-Kokoua here). The Adrefana dry forests ofMadagascar have been added as an extension to the existing World Heritage area in Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park. This recognition can drive the international prominence of these sites, encouraging responsible tourism and sustainable development, while safeguarding local environments and traditions.
Here’s hoping their newly found status will foster global cooperation in their protection, ensuring they endure for future generations – and ensuring you can make your dreams of visiting these spectacular African destinations a reality. (We can help make this dream happen for you too – just get in touch with our safari experts).
Speaking of travel dreams – we’ve put together the ultimate to-do list for visiting one of South Africa’s most popular destinations – Cape Town. See below. You can also check out our guide to Botswana’s zebra migrations, and read about the efficacy of Greater Kruger’s rhino conservation interventions.
It’s prime time to witness both the Great Wildebeest Migration in Tanzania and the zebra migration in Botswana. To take advantage of the two specials on offer below, contact our safari experts – and they’ll plan your ultimate African safari
LAST-MINUTE SPECIAL – US$4,030 per person sharing (5 days) – for October 2023 only – 23% OFF
The Great Wildebeest Migration in Serengeti National Park, Tanzania is an event you WANT to experience. For this special offer, we’ve chosen specific dates and camps to maximise sightings based on where the herds are at the time. Don’t miss your chance to witness this epic wildlife event! Get 23% off when booking for October 2023.
Honeymoon special: 50% off for partners at Migration Expeditions, Nxai Pan
Spend your honeymoon at Migration Expeditions, located in Nxai Pan National Park, Botswana – a prime location for witnessing the extensive zebra migration. This seasonal camp is set up specifically to witness this vital event. This honeymoon special is valid until 21 December 2023 for a minimum 6-night stay.
Safari report-back:
My bucket-list holiday
Sugnet Toerien and her group of friends recently returned from their AG safari to Kenya, where they set out to experience the Maasai Mara migration. They stayed atTamarind Tree Hotelin Nairobi andSentinel Mara Campin Maasai Mara National Reserve. Thanks for the awesome review, Sugnet!
“Booking a safari holiday to the Maasai Mara through AG was an absolute game-changer for my travel experience. From start to finish, their service exceeded all expectations, and I can’t praise them enough for helping me create memories that will last a lifetime.
What truly sets AG apart is their dedication to creating personalised itineraries. They took the time to understand my preferences and interests, ensuring that every aspect of the safari catered to my desires. Whether you’re a wildlife enthusiast, a photography enthusiast, or a cultural explorer, they can design an itinerary that perfectly suits your needs. A massive thank you to safari expert Christian for making our bucket-list holiday come true!”
WATCH: There aren’t very many scavengers that can do what vultures do – especially when it comes to removing dangerous diseases from the environment. But many of Africa’s vultures are either critically endangered, or endangered. Here’s how the Endangered Wildlife Trust is using their wealth of knowledge to drive conservation of these birds (4:00). Click here to watch
Nestled between a rugged mountain range and the Atlantic Ocean, the city of Cape Town is one of South Africa’s most popular tourist destinations – for good reason. From exquisite natural beauty and magnificent beaches to edgy urban delights and colourful histories, the city is a traveller’s paradise. But with so much on offer, what to choose and how to make the most of a visit? Here is our ultimate Cape Town to-do list to perfectly tailor your chosen activities.
Find out about Cape Town for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.
Cape Town’s mountains & adventures
Cape Town is one of South Africa’s foremost hiking and thrill-seeking destinations, and can perfectly round out any African safari. The city is defined by its unique position at a point where mountains meet the sea. The entire city is enfolded in the “armchair” of the Cape Fold Mountain Range, and everyone from casual ramblers to hardened adrenaline junkies will be itching to explore the great outdoors. Grab a pair of sturdy shoes and investigate the many adventures on offer.
The cable car ride to the top of Table Mountain offers incredible views of the city and beyond
Climb (or ride the cable car) to the top of the iconic Table Mountain and explore the paths that crisscross the top.
After a short hike, enjoy a picnic at the top of Lion’s Head beneath the full moon, looking down at the twinkling lights of the city. This is a very popular outing in the city, so be prepared for a busy trail on the way up. Also note the trail is quite technical and can be challenging at peak times.
Lion’s head offers the perfect spot for picnicking
Silently paraglide over Camps Bay and take in the majesty of Cape Town from above.
Zipline over Elgin Valley and enjoy a bird’s-eye view of the rugged scenery below.
Gallop across the white sands of Noordhoek beach on horseback in a cloud of sea spray.
Horse riding on iconic Noordhoek Beach
Sand & sea
Along with the mountains, Cape Town’s beaches are one of her most popular attractions, offering everything from dazzling white sands and turquoise waters to ample space and calm coves. And while the waters of the Atlantic Ocean may be chilly, they are brimming with marine life. Don your swimsuit or squeeze into a wetsuit and enjoy a day at the seaside:
A view of Table Mountain from Bloubergstrand
Walk the sands or laze in the shade on the world-famous beaches of Clifton 1-4, Camps Bay, Llandudno, Long Beach and Bloubergstrand.
Grab a surfboard and test out your skill on the waves of Muizenberg.
Enter the murky underwater world of the kelp forests and free dive or snorkel in search of fascinating sea life.
A sevengill shark at the depths of a kelp forest. See more pics from Tracey Jennings on Instagram via @scubabunnie
Take to the calm azure waters in a kayak (day or night!) and admire the views of the city from a different perspective.
Meet the charismatic little African penguins of Boulders Beach (look, don’t touch them – they are wild animals, and they will bite!).
Embrace new trends and water-bike your way around Simon’s Town and the False Bay Coast.
Join the Cape fur seals in the water and watch them transform from awkward land-dwellers to sleek and agile predators.
Seals frolicking amidst the corals in Atlantic waters
Cultural Cape Town: history & art
Cape Town has always been a gateway to South Africa, setting the stage for a rich history and a melting pot of colourful cultures. There are undoubtedly some areas of the city that are steeped in the tragic and turbulent history of South Africa, but it is of vital importance that these stories are never forgotten. Set out to learn more about the past and indulge your inner aesthete in a cultural journey through the Cape:
Look in on Woodstock’s bustling hub of creativity, offering everything from street art to furniture showrooms.
Take the solemn journey to Robben Island and tour the prison where Nelson Mandela and many other apartheid dissidents spent decades incarcerated.
The experience awaiting visitors to Robben Island
Head out to the District Six Museum, which documents the story of apartheid in one of Cape Town’s most politically and historically significant suburbs.
Take your pick of world-class art exhibitions and galleries from the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary African Art and the Ellerman House collection to the Norval Foundation and Iziko South African National Gallery.
Explore the Cape Town Holocaust & Genocide Centre, the first of its kind in Africa to commemorate the victims and survivors of Hitler’s Nazi regime.
Visitors to the Cape Town Holocaust and Genocide Centre view a collection of photographs from family albums of South African Jews
Urban vibes and gourmet meals
Cape Town is as vibrant and diverse as the natural world that surrounds it. Every neighbourhood comes with its own particular ambience, ranging from hip and happening to arty and urbane. There is an endless array of cosy cafes to experience and a collection of some of the world’s best seafood restaurants. And that’s not to mention the psychedelic nightlife! Head out onto the streets and enjoy the best experiences the city has to offer:
Wander Kloof Street, exploring the exciting shops, cafes, restaurants, and bars along the way.
Feel hip and happening on buzzing Bree Street, the “coolest” street in town, and wash down a scrumptious meal with a designer cocktail or artisanal beer.
Explore the rows and alleys of the famous Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, Cape Town’s unofficial shopping and dining capital. Drop in to visit the Two Oceans Aquarium while you’re there.
Experience the hustle, bustle and ocean fragrances of the V&A Waterfront
Discover any of the many rooftop bars and markets scattered throughout the city, each offering its unique ambience.
Support the city’s talented actors, singers and dancers at one of the many shows on offer at the time.
Blink dazedly at the kaleidoscope that is Bo-Kaap – a suburb decorated in almost every colour imaginable.
The colourful houses of the Bo-Kaap
Cultivated Cape Town: gardens & vineyards
The Cape region is famous for its unique and astonishingly diverse indigenous plant life, but it is also home to many of the most beautiful and stately gardens in the country. Some of South Africa’s most famous winelands are found just inland from Cape Town, where wine enthusiasts can enjoy the best of South Africa’s bouquets against the verdant background of mountains and valleys. Grab a hat (or a glass) and revel in the Cape’s cultivated greenery:
Wine tasting at Babylonstoren
Check out the squirrels in The Company’s Garden, a green oasis in the heart of the city.
Continue the Bacchanalian delights at Boschendal Farm, in one of the most picturesque valleys in the Cape Winelands.
Spend the day exploring the cultivated and indigenous exhibits of Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden before taking to treetops on the Tree Canopy Walkway
The Boomslang Canopy Trail at Kirstenbosch
Walk the paths of Stellenberg Gardens, a beautiful old estate surrounded by stately and ancient oak trees.
Sample the best wine Babylonstoren Farm has to offer, where oenophiles can wax lyrical about earthy aromas and smooth finishes, and amateurs can pretend they know the difference.
The magical grounds of Babylonstoren Farm
Take a tour
Cape Town is a sedate city, but with so much to explore, it is well worth embarking on a tour designed to take in as many of the region’s attractions as possible. So, grab a bike, hire a car, or jump aboard a bus and let the exploration begin:
A view of the Atlantic Seaboard featuring the Cape Town City Bowl and impressive Table Mountain
Rent a bicycle or a scooter and join the lively throngs of cyclists, joggers, couples, and dog walkers wandering the length of Sea Point Promenade.
Change down a gear and navigate the scenic curves and precipitous cliffs of Chapman’s Peak Drive (check ahead of time that Chapman’s Peak is open – as it is sometimes closed due to bad weather).
The road snaking along Chapman’s Peak provides breathtaking views of the Atlantic Seaboard
Hiccup your way through the Constantia Wine Route and move between modern and stylish wineries to the more mature vineyards and ancient farmhouses.
Explore the wild and rugged ecosystem of the Cape Peninsula on a journey to visit the lighthouses of Cape Point.
View the lighthouses at Cape Point
Take a day trip to visit each of the charming small towns and beaches of False Bay.
Hop on and off the famous red double-decker City Sightseeing buses, which offer some of the simplest ways to take in as much of Cape Town as possible.
The City Sightseeing bus offers a great way to explore Cape Town
Dehorning rhinos is the only intervention that shows strong statistical evidence for reducing poaching
Protecting Africa’s rhinos is monumental and requires courage, persistence, creativity and extraordinary strength of character. No single strategy is sufficient against the scourge of poaching that has annihilated rhinos in their thousands, and conservationists have had to employ a multitude of different interventions in an attempt to stem the tide. However, every intervention comes at a cost: financial, personnel-related, ecological or otherwise. Understanding what interventions have worked and to what extent is essential in forging a path forward. This requires robust statistical analysis and managerial insight based on years of operational experience. A new report from the Greater Kruger region in South Africa offers just that.
South Africa is home to the majority of Africa’s rhinos, and the largest remaining wild population exists in the Kruger National Park and surrounding reserves. High poaching rates and the need for holistic and evidence-based thinking led to the creation of Project FIRE (Framework of Interventions for Effective Rhino Protection Evaluation), bringing together a cross-disciplinary team of reserve managers, ecologists, scientists, and other stakeholders. The collaborative efforts of data analysts, representatives of two state reserves (including the Kruger National Park) and nine private reserves have culminated in a 17-page report evaluating rhino conservation efforts from 2017 to 2021.
They identified and evaluated several intervention areas, including access control to the protected area, camera technologies, K9 units, integrity (polygraph) testing, dehorning, detection zones, air support, ranger training and equipment, rhino monitoring, fences and fence alarms. Evaluating these indices (which could encompass several variables) required identifying exactly how each was expected to help, how its success could be measured and the extent of its limitations. In this manner, the data could be quantified and fed into statistical models for analysis. Naturally, any statistical analysis needs to be interpreted within the context of the situation, particularly in one as complicated as the anti-poaching reality in the Greater Kruger. Thus, the “manager narrative” and insight played an integral role in compiling the final report.
[Editorial note: The authors elected not to include an executive summary of the report to encourage the reader to read the full report and appreciate the results’ complexity, context and nuance. Though we have provided a summary below, we would reiterate the suggestion to read the report to fully understand the intricacies of the issues at play.]
A minimum of ZAR 1.1 billion (USD 61 million) was spent protecting rhinos from 2017–2021, of which ZAR 660 million was spent in the Kruger National Park (USD 37 million). The most costly interventions in the Kruger National Park were access control, air support, security staff and specialised detection technology. Similarly, security was one of the most significant expenses for the other reserves, but fences (maintenance and upgrades) and ranger training and equipment also featured as substantial costs.
One of the report’s primary findings was that dehorning was the only intervention that showed strong statistical evidence for reducing poaching. As such, there is a strong statistical and logical case in favour of dehorning as an effective strategy. However, the authors emphasise that this does not imply that other measures were ineffective, but simply that evidence in their favour was inconclusive with the available data. Furthermore, many security measures, such as K9 teams and aerial support, successfully reacted to poaching incidents and captured poachers, which does not automatically translate to reduced poaching rates.
A dehorned rhino in Greater Kruger
A lack of variation within the data (as most reserves have implemented most interventions and thus cannot be compared to those without) reduced the statistical power of the analysis. Many interventions may be effective in principle without demonstrating any statistical association with poaching. Furthermore, corruption or internal involvement may result in the circumvention of otherwise effective measures. A reserve may have a high number of poacher arrests, but this will do little to deter future excursions if the criminal justice system (from law enforcement to the courts) does not work successfully to punish the crime, as evidenced by multiple repeat offenders.
The report’s conclusion offers several insights into anti-poaching interventions’ current status and the authors’ analysis results. In particular, it highlights that “most interventions do not directly address, and are at the mercy of, significant external factors such as socioeconomic inequality, entrenched criminal syndicates, corruption and horn demand”. In addition, many of the analysed interventions are reactive (detecting and arresting poachers), and the effectiveness of dehorning may relate in part to the fact that it is a proactive intervention. The report also acknowledges that implementation and competence vary widely across the study region. Poor implementation, rather than the intervention itself, may contribute to its lack of success. They explain that “[e]ffective operation management is essential…It requires strong leadership, strategic planning and the ability to make informed decisions in a dynamic, challenging and ever-changing environment”.
The report concludes with lessons for the future of the conservation of rhinos. The authors emphasise the power of shared learning and the importance of collaboration between scientists, academics and reserve managers. Perhaps the most encouraging words from the report are found in the foreword of the report, offering a message of hope from the custodians of our remaining rhinos: “We will succeed. The cause of protecting these magnificent creatures is too great, and the people dedicated to the cause are too dogged for any other outcome.”
Reference
Kuiper, T., Haussmann, S., Whitfield, S., Altwegg, R., Ferreira, S., Shaw, J., Polakow, D., Hofmeyr, M., Pierce, E., Nowak, I., Rowles, C., Zowitsky, H., Oliver, I., Boyd, W., Bird, J., Worth, E., van Tonder, M., Bourn, M., Greef, Z., Hartman, Z. (2023). Evaluating the cost and effectiveness of rhino conservation interventions in the Greater Kruger. A Greater Kruger Environmental Protection Foundation Report.
Further reading
– Missing the point: A new study suggests that dehorning can negatively impact the social behaviour of black rhinos. Read more here.
– The state of Africa’s rhino: Read our analysis of the IUCN report containing the most recent rhino numbers, trends, poaching incidents, conservation measures and trade updates.
East Africa’s Great Migration is perhaps the most famous large mammal migration in the world, and for good reason, but few people realize that Africa is home to several smaller mammal migrations that are equally spectacular in their own way. Two such migrations are those of the zebras in Botswana, one of which is the longest mammal migration in Africa. These migrations offer astounding (and often less crowded) wildlife sightings, but, more importantly, they are a testament to not only the resilience of nature in the face of human interference but to the genetically programmed instinct to migrate.
In the late 1960s, Botswana entered into an agreement with the European Union to provide cattle for food purposes, but while this deal may have been lucrative at the time, it came with stringent conditions. One of these was that Botswana needed to take measures to avoid spreading foot-and-mouth disease between wild animals and domestic cattle. Thus, a series of veterinary fences were erected that separated swathes of land and cut off the pre-existing migratory routes. When these fences were moved in the mid-2000s, researchers and conservationists were astounded to see a portion of the zebra herds begin to follow two ancient migratory patterns: the Chobe-Nxai Pan and Okavango-Makgadikgadi migratory routes.
The Chobe-Nxai Pan zebra migration: longest mammal migration in Africa
While there has been plenty of anecdotal evidence as to the seasonal movement of various animals in Botswana, it was only in 2012 that researchers confirmed through the use of tracking collars that the zebras were completing an unexpectedly long return journey of over 1,000km each year. Until then, the zebras’ route through inaccessible parts of Botswana via the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area had kept their movements largely hidden.
The herds spend the harshest of the dry months around the Chobe River flood plains from June until early November before massing in early December when over 20,000 zebras begin their journey southwards – triggered by rain in the Nxai Pan area. Most travel in an almost straight line before arriving in Nxai Pan National Park in two to three weeks, while others take less direct routes, often stopping at Seloko Plain before joining the rest a few weeks later.
These herds disperse throughout Nxai Pan National Park (part of the greater Makgadikgadi Pan system) and remain there for about three months – December to February – before returning to the north. This return route to the Chobe River and north into Namibia is less direct and more circuitous, taking about three months (March to May), with some zebra travelling over 800km before being forced to return to more permanent water systems such as the Chobe River.
Okavango-Makgadikgadi zebra migration
Somewhat smaller than the Chobe-Nxai Pan migration, this 500 km return route sees the movement of around 15,000 zebras between Moremi / Okavango Delta and the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park.
The herds take advantage of the Okavango Delta floodwaters during the dry season, which lasts until November / December. The migration in November / December is triggered by rains in the Makgadikgadi area. The journey takes a few weeks, and the herds remain in the Makgadikgadi area, feeding on the nutritious grass for about three months – December/January to February/ March. Around March, the zebras begin to mass on the western edge of Makgadikgadi Pans National Park before setting off on their return route past Maun and into the south-eastern areas of the Okavango Delta, including Moremi Game Reserve.
Interestingly, only about 55% of the zebras undertake this migration, with the remaining 45% staying in the Moremi Okavango Delta area.
When to see Botswana’s zebra migrations?
The best time to view zebras feeding on the seasonal green grasses of the Makgadikgadi Pans ecosystem is during the rainy season of December to March each year, with March being when zebras are massing for the return trips north or east to their dry season feeding grounds.
One significant benefit of setting out on an African zebra migration safari is that they are most dramatic during the low tourism season in Botswana, meaning lower lodge rates and fewer safari vehicles. The Boteti River on the western edge of Makgadikgadi Pans National Park provides one of the only permanent water sources in the area for thirsty zebras, which means that large concentrations of zebra can be found there as the herds move in and out of the Pans area.
The future
Once, mass large mammal migrations occurred throughout southern Africa on a tremendous scale, including the migration of an estimated half a million wildebeest through Botswana’s Central Kalahari Game Reserve. These migrations have all but been eradicated, mainly due to the erection of cattle / veterinary fences blocking the original routes. The revival of the zebra migrations in Botswana has led researchers and conservationists to hope that ancestral migratory routes could be recovered if given the opportunity, not just in Botswana but throughout the world.
It does not require a leap of logic to understand that migrations can allow large mammal numbers to increase beyond what they might if they were resident in an area by ensuring that resources are not over-utilized (by over-grazing, for example). It is too soon to tell what impact these zebra migrations will have on zebra numbers, but for those fortunate enough to witness them moving en mass, there is no choice but to marvel at nature’s sheer genetic determination and resilience.
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November safari sorted + down with vet fences?
With so many clients on safari right now, out there somewhere in this extraordinary continent, my mind turned to WHY we do this. We are not the ‘usual’ safari company – in that we invest significant resources into compiling stories about Africa.
Over sixteen million of you have read these stories in the last decade – stories that reflect the complexity and reality of life at ground level here in Africa. That’s 16m caring individuals from across the globe – our tribe – that have taken on board the science and considered opinions, and helped us spread the word.
Based on these stories and our reputation for designing authentic experience-based safaris, some of you choose us as your travel company when you visit Africa. That revenue powers us to go further, do more. THANK YOU.
We have a manifesto – our ikigai – that fuels us and provides direction whenever we are faced with a fork in the road. There have been many such moments since we began this wonderful journey 32 years ago. You can read our manifesto here.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Did you know that music can have similar effects on animals that it has on humans?
A beloved Kruger National Park camp recently hosted a popular annual classical music concert. A small social media storm broke out at the closing of the camp to host such an event. A wonderful setting for enjoying an orchestra, or harmful to the animals?
Well, as it turns out, classical music has a calming effect on a range of animals, including gorillas and dogs. It reduces aggression and increases sociability in chimpanzees. Cows soothed by classical music produce more milk. And birds’ brains react to music similarly to the way humans’ do. Crocodiles exposed to Bach’s Brandenburg Concertos in an MRI scanner were stimulated to produce similar brain patterns to those of birds and mammals (how did they get a crocodile into an MRI machine, you may ask?). Also pertinent to this question is that symphonic music peaks from about 120dB, but in an outdoor setting, there is likely a major drop off by the time it reaches animal ears. Researchers also question whether animals are stimulated by music because they find it appealing, or because the unfamiliar sound makes them want to flee. Food for thought the next time you are contemplating Baroque in the bush.
In more brain fodder for this week, Gail Thomson asks whether Namibia and Botswana should bring down their veterinary fences. We also explore the unique experiences you can expect when going on safari in November – so you can start planning now. See our stories below.
Whether on a guided photographic safari in the Maasai Mara, or exploring the plains of the Serengeti, we have offerings where you can safari in classic style in these tented camps. Take your pick or combine the two: our experts are ready to design your unique African safari.
Special offer – Book 5 nights and only pay 4 at Olmara Camp
Don’t miss your chance to enjoy this special offer and stay in a tented paradise on the eastern plains of Serengeti National Park, Tanzania. Olmara Camp is located at the crossroads of endless grassy plains and woodlands, in an area surrounded by meandering rivers and dramatic ancient granite kopjes. Offer valid until 23 December 2023
“A powerful experience”
This is how our travel client Tracy McLachlan described her back-to-back art safaris atKambaku Safari Lodgein Greater Kruger and Bush House in Madikwe Game Reserve. Thank you for the stellar review, Tracy!
“The attention to detail was incredible. Christian (AG safari expert) was thorough and responsive when arranging my two art safaris, as well as other accommodation. Everything was seamless and stress-free. All staff at Kambaku greeted me and other guests by name throughout my stay. They remembered my preferences and interests and seemed to anticipate my every need – making sure I was always comfortable.
Our guide, Gideon, and tracker, Eric, were such delights to be with. They were attentive, kind, and generous with their knowledge and time. They both had such lovely senses of humour. They understood what our safari group was trying to achieve and worked hard to ensure each guest had a good view for sketching wildlife. They were genuinely interested in what we were working on and shared their insights regarding the specific animals we were sketching. It was a very rich experience of viewing animals, and learning about them and the ecosystem. And we had incredible sketching opportunities.”
WATCH: Chitake Springs in Mana Pools National Park is a growing talking point amongst photographers for producing raw wildlife action. Here’s what happened when Villiers Steyn led an Africa Geographic photographic safari to this untamed Zimbabwean wilderness, known for its large lion prides and massive herds of buffalo (9:23). Click here to watch
If you have ever been on a road trip through Botswana or Namibia, you would likely have encountered a veterinary fence. A checkpoint comes into view at a seemingly random location along your route. When you stop, you are asked if you have any meat and told to walk through murky water. If you were carrying some meat for your next braai or barbeque, this is the last you will see of it. Each vet fence comprises two parallel fence lines that extend for thousands of kilometres. Veterinary fences were not erected to inconvenience tourists, but why is this necessary? The answer is complicated and not without controversy in both Namibia and Botswana. Gail Thomson asks if Namibia and Botswana should bring down their veterinary fences.
Botswana’s fences have caused the deaths of millions of animals, while Namibians living north of its fence see it as part of the legacy of apartheid. Despite the social and ecological ruptures they have caused, the fences remain. As you will soon discover, taking down these veterinary fences is about much more than dismantling thousands of kilometres of wire and wooden poles.
Why veterinary fences? A historical perspective
The Namibian fence is officially known as Veterinary Cordon Fence and unofficially as “the Red Line”, which is how it is depicted on maps. This 1,250km double fence line runs from the eastern border with Botswana, along the southern boundary of Etosha National Park and right through to the desert in the west.
The Red Line was initially developed as a concept rather than a physical fence as part of the German colonial government’s response to rinderpest in 1898. Starting in East Africa, rinderpest was a deadly disease introduced by cattle brought onto the African continent that wiped out over 90% of the cattle, buffalo and other antelope populations at the time. It also had a devastating effect on human populations due to the resulting starvation.
A series of police posts on the main roads were set up to prevent the movement of livestock from northern Namibia to southern Namibia along a line running east to west. Ultimately, these efforts were futile as rinderpest swept southwards through transmission between wild and domestic animals.
Despite its failure to control disease transmission, the Red Line was a useful political tool because it separated the southern part of Namibia that the Germans focused on colonising from the northern lands where they had less control. The area south of the fence became known as the Police Zone, i.e. the zone where colonising farmers could be ‘kept safe’ by the police.
When the South African government took charge of Namibia after World War I, they recognised the utility of the Red Line for political purposes and disease prevention. However, it was many years before a fence materialised from the concept. Instead, the Red Line was a 30–100km wide zone that was assumed to be free of livestock and most antelope due to a lack of natural surface water. The zone included the vast Etosha Pan and (at the time) its waterless surrounds. Strategically located police posts were used to prevent people from driving their livestock through the zone to access markets in the south.
An outbreak of Foot and Mouth Disease (FMD) in the 1960s finally created the impetus to turn the zone into a double fence line. Buffalo are primary carriers of FMD, which can be transmitted to cattle when they come into contact with each other. FMD can infect other antelope species (e.g. kudu) but these rarely transmit it to other species. Infected buffalo show few or no clinical signs of the disease, while cattle suffer from lesions in the mouth and feet that reduce their productivity (it is usually non-fatal for adult cattle).
Buffalo are primary carriers of Foot and Mouth Disease
The fence line and associated police posts further restricted human movement from north to south, which fitted well with the apartheid government’s intentions to keep the ‘black homelands’ in the north separate from ‘white farmlands’.
Botswana’s history as a British Protectorate rather than a colony means that its fences do not have the same colonial undertones. However, the whole purpose of their veterinary fences is to satisfy the European Union (EU) by controlling globally recognised transboundary animal diseases that could threaten European cattle farms. Most of these fences were erected after Botswana’s independence in 1966 and are far more extensive than Namibia’s Red Line.
The first fence to be erected (completed in 1958) was the Kuke fence running from the Namibian border, along the northern boundary of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR), then turning 90 degrees north towards the Okavango Delta. The Southern Buffalo Fence rings the Okavango Delta and meets the northern part of the Kuke fence. It was erected in 1982 to keep buffalo in the Delta and away from cattle farms, mainly to prevent FMD transmission.
The outbreak of Contagious Bovine Pleuropneumonia (CBPP), another recognised transboundary animal disease (infecting cattle but not African buffalo), prompted the construction of several more veterinary fences in the northern half of the country in 1995–1996. Due to the contagious nature of CBPP and its international trade significance, all cattle were slaughtered in Ngamiland (north-west Botswana) between 1995 and 1998. Two fences constructed at the time (the Setata and Nxai Pan fences) have since been removed. Altogether, Botswana’s many separate fences cover over 10,000 km.
Negative impacts of veterinary fences
While fences in Namibia caused some ecological disruption (hundreds of buffalo were shot south of the fence to prevent them from dying against the fence), the impact on Botswana’s wildlife was devastating. Millions of wildebeest and zebra died along the Kuke vet fence because it was inadvertently erected across their historical migration routes between the Kalahari and the Okavango Delta.
Besides the internal veterinary fences, the national boundary fences running between Namibia and Botswana cause severe disruption of wildlife movement in this central part of the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA). The initial construction of these fences coincided with significant declines in buffalo, tsessebe, roan and sable antelope in Namibia. Recent evidence from satellite collars on elephants reveals that family herd movements are restricted by fences, even though elephants frequently break the national boundary and vet fences.
Finding other ways of reducing disease transmission that do not include fences could open up international markets for meat and start to commercialise cattle farming
The impacts of vet fences in Namibia and Botswana have been both socio-economic and ecological. In both countries, farmers living on the ‘wrong side’ of the fence (i.e. where FMD and other diseases are considered endemic) have access to few markets for their meat. Although many of these farmers keep cattle for cultural purposes and rarely sell their cows, limited market access makes a shift towards more commercial farming practices even less likely.
The continued strict separation between buffalo and cattle creates an economic and conservation problem. As a game species, disease-free buffalo are highly valued and sold in neighbouring South Africa for high prices. Still, game farms in Namibia and Botswana are prevented from stocking buffalo for fear of disease transmission. This limits the potential for the wildlife economy in both countries to outcompete the livestock farming industry and prevents buffalo from recovering its historical range.
Disease-free buffalo are a valuable commodity, sold for high prices in South Africa
Finally, maintaining thousands of kilometres of double fences is a significant cost for both countries, although probably more so for Botswana. Elephants are constantly breaking the vet fences, allowing cattle to enter wildlife areas (e.g. the Okavango Delta) and mingle with buffalo. If these cattle are herded back out again, they could cause disease outbreaks affecting all livestock farmers in the country.
The symbolism of the Namibian Red Line as a means of oppression and separation cannot be ignored, although a detailed discussion of this is beyond the scope of this article.
Veterinary fences are bad, but…
Wildlife-proof fences can reduce human-wildlife conflict, whether erected for disease control or some other purpose. Fence breaks between Etosha National Park, the Okavango Delta and their surrounding farmlands often result in livestock or crop losses and subsequent killing of the wild animals involved.
One doesn’t need a crystal ball to predict what would happen if these fences were removed entirely. Cattle herders searching for better grazing in these protected areas would push further into them, where lions and other large carnivores would easily pick them off. Conversely, lions and other carnivores would expand their range into the adjacent farmlands and cause even more conflict than currently.
Finding other ways of reducing disease transmission that do not include fences could open up international markets for meat and start to commercialise cattle farming. While this could have positive implications regarding poverty alleviation, it may also intensify human-wildlife conflict by increasing the economic value of lost livestock. Both countries already struggle to provide sufficient payments for livestock losses due to human-wildlife conflict, even in places where livestock are not farmed commercially.
Finally, veterinary protocols in both countries that are associated with vet fences – e.g. livestock inspections and ear tags for tracing cattle ownership – maintain relatively high standards of disease control. If vet fences come down, such protocols could be relaxed or disregarded, leading to more disease outbreaks among livestock.
Many farmers in Namibia and Botswana keep cattle for cultural purposes
Looking to the future
If the negative impacts of vet fences generally outweigh the positives, why do these two independent African nations still maintain them? The short answer: to maintain access to the lucrative EU market for meat products.
The highest value market for livestock from both countries is the EU. If infected meat is imported into the EU, it is possible (though far from as likely as live animal imports) that FMD and other cattle diseases will infect European cattle. Consequently, if meat-exporting countries such as Namibia and Botswana cannot prove to the EU that their meat is not contaminated, they will be locked out of this lucrative market.
Therefore, solutions to the vet fence problem focus on reducing the likelihood of disease transmission to the point where it can be proven that meat from infected zones poses no threat to international markets. The first step in this direction is using an animal management system called Commodity-Based Trading (CBT) that combines livestock management, quarantine zones, and specific ways of slaughtering at abattoirs to reduce the chances of disease transmission to near zero.
This system is recognised by the international governing body World Organisation for Animal Health (WOAH, formerly OIE) which maintains standards for animal imports and exports to reduce the chances of disease transmission. However, the EU imposes stricter standards than those recommended by WOAH and thus is unlikely to accept meat produced through CBT methods.
A sudden increase in the supply of relatively cheap meat from Africa is seen as a threat to farmers within the EU, so this discussion goes beyond disease transmission and into the realm of politics. Until that changes, farmers may have to settle for using CBT to access markets within Africa and others outside of the EU, which are at least stronger than domestic markets in those zones.
The need for more intensive livestock management to implement CBT has a silver lining. If cattle must be herded and kept away from buffalo and other wildlife as much as possible (as per CBT guidelines), they will be better protected from predators. Better-managed cattle are also more productive, as young animals can be treated timeously when the herder notices they are ill. The Herding 4 Health programme in Botswana uses this approach to improve livestock health, open access to regional African markets, and reduce cattle losses to lions and other predators.
Commodity-Based Trading could reduce the chances of disease transmission amongst livestock to near zero
Bringing the fences down
Vet fences have been a constant presence in Botswana and Namibia for decades. The reasons for erecting and maintaining these fences go far beyond disease transmission. This means that any efforts to take these fences down must include, but not be limited to, technical fixes related to animal health. Political interventions, trade deals, and changing farmer and veterinary perceptions are essential. One must also consider the unintended negative consequences of taking fences down and have strategies in place to mitigate these wherever possible.
If Botswana and Namibia can navigate these uncharted waters successfully, bringing selected fences down could herald a new era for improving livelihoods, restoring wildlife migratory routes and further integrating the livestock and wildlife economy. Are these potential long-term benefits worth the extra effort and economic uncertainties? If so, we should seriously consider bringing at least some of the fences down.
Gail Thomson would like to thank Dr Mark Jago (Namibia) and Dr Mark Bing (Botswana) for their input into this article based on their veterinary expertise.
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Rhino crisis averted + KAZA elephants + South Luangwa safari
Just back from six days in Botswana’s Tuli Block with our 2023 Photographer of the Year winners. To say that we were blown away by the wildlife sightings and photographic opportunities is putting it mildly. Six different leopards in the first three days, lions everywhere and a relaxed cheetah mom with three cubs made for riveting days in this arid paradise. And a morning in a sunken photo hide that was so busy with comings and goings and epic photographic moments, we returned to the lodge elated and exhausted. Expect a gallery of outstanding photos in the months to come. Our featured image above is a brief hors d’oeuvre…
And what a wonderful group to spend time with! The fascinating discussions and hilarious banter set the tone and added layers of enjoyment to what was already an epic safari. Thanks to my teamAG travel experts for excellent planning and management of our safari and to Mashatu Botswana for hosting us at their superb lodges – and for the slick, effortless service and delicious food that catered for our diverse dietary requirements. Good times!
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
What do African penguins and the James Webb Space Telescope have in common?
African penguins may have feathers and wings, but they cannot fly. The James Webb Telescope has neither, yet it is flying through space at about 1,200km/h. Their inability to fly puts penguins at a distinct disadvantage to their flying seabird relatives, as they are unable to find food on the wing. Thank goodness then, that penguins have a strong sense of smell – which helps them detect prey at sea at up to 2km away. A study conducted off the coast of South Africa found that penguins find their prey by smelling the compound dimethyl sulphide, emitted by phytoplankton in prey patches.
It turns out that the James Webb Telescope, too, can detect the same compound – produced only by life – by analysing the chemical signature of molecules in light. Now, for the first time, the telescope has detected dimethyl sulphide out there – on a planet 120 light years from Earth. This is the most promising possibility of alien life found to date. The telescope has also detected carbon dioxide and methane on the planet – possible signs of a water ocean underneath a hydrogen-rich atmosphere. Could the planet be harbouring phytoplankton, or feathered creatures, like planet Earth? Only time will tell.
You may also be fascinated by our tale of a flower sexually deceiving a beetle into becoming its pollinator in our second story below. Or take some time out to dream of your travels through Africa, as we focus on Nyerere National Park, a rugged wilderness area in Tanzania. See our first story.
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We introduce you to the new Tanda Tula Safari Camp – with an irresistible special offer! The camp has been redesigned, taking full advantage of its location along the Nhlaralumi River in South Africa’s Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger. It’s a place of endless space, privacy, and a true paradise! Book 4 or more nights at Tanda Tula’s new home and get 1 night free! Valid 01 October-15 December 2023 & 09 January-31 March 2024
Epic Tuli photo safari
Our 2023 Photographer of the Year winners are pictured here after a superb session in the Photo Mashatu underground hide. They enjoyed an epic Tuli Block (Botswana) safari, courtesy of our travel experts. Ask us to plan your next safari.
WATCH: Several of our safari experts view October as the best month for a safari in Africa. Click here to see why (2:00). With predators easy to spot at waterholes in southern Africa, fewer crowds at Mara River wildebeest crossings and warm weather at the beach, there are plenty of reasons to start planning an October safari now. Let us help you plan your next safari!
In today’s onslaught of media content, words like “unchanged” and “pristine” are bandied about with reckless and inaccurate abandon. Few of Africa’s remaining protected areas are either unchanged or pristine, and to describe them as such is to whitewash the stories of the continent’s resilience. In a time of tremendous change for the Selous Game Reserve, the declaration of Nyerere National Park will be an important chapter in the history of one of Africa’s greatest wilderness regions.
A new chapter?
In 2019, the now-deceased former president of Tanzania, John Magufuli, announced that the vast Selous Game Reserve would be split in two. The northern, southern, and western sides became the Nyerere National Park, while the eastern section remained the Selous Game Reserve. At 30,893 km2 (over three million hectares – more than twice the size of the Serengeti National Park), Nyerere National Park is the largest national park in East Africa. It protects a magnificent mosaic of Vachellia (Acacia) savannahs, grasslands, miombo woodlands, marshes and riverine forests, features which once justified the Selous Game Reserve’s inclusion as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
To the east, the park continues as the much-reduced Selous Game Reserve, which nevertheless encompasses some 20,155km2 (around two million hectares – the size of the Kruger National Park). Nyerere is also contiguous with Mikumi National Park in the northwestern corner, which, together with nearby Udzungwa National Park, helps to connect the greater Selous ecosystem to the Ruaha ecosystem in the west.
Nyerere National Park now extends over three sides of the Rufiji River valley, including such tributaries as the Beho Beho and Ruaha Rivers. The Rufiji River – the largest in Tanzania – dominates the landscape, plunging through Stiegler’s Gorge and eventually fanning out into an intricate network of channels, oxbow lakes and swamps. At the height of the rainy season, it transforms into an angry torrent of brown water that changes the face of the landscape each year. In the dry season, it supplies a never-ending parade of thirsty creatures of every shape and size, drawn to the water’s edge and offered welcome shade by towering Borassus palms. Its waterways define the Nyerere/Selous experience, with game drives taking place along the banks and boat safaris across the interconnected lakes – offering a unique African safari option.
The Rufiji River valley from above
What’s in a name?
Regarding photo tourism, Selous Game Reserve has typically been overshadowed by the northern Tanzanian safari circuit. In contrast to the latter, a Selous safari has always been considered a more rough and ready experience, better suited to experienced safari-goers with a taste for a rugged and authentic wilderness. The same principle applies to Nyerere National Park, though there are plans to increase the park’s tourism footprint.
Even before the creation of Nyerere, photo tourism organisations and lodges have always predominated in the region north of the Rufiji River system. The rest of the Selous was divided into hunting blocks, but this arrangement will no longer apply to those areas now included within the national park. Under Tanzanian law, national parks are afforded the highest levels of legal control over human activity and habitation and are managed by the Tanzanian National Parks Authority, TANAPA. According to government statements, the intention is to improve the road networks and general accessibility of the park and increase the number of camps and lodges.
Nyerere protects significant populations of elephant
The ‘Selous’ safari
There is no question that, as a safari destination, Nyerere National Park is brimming with untapped potential, but this is not to say that its pleasures are entirely unknown. Wildlife connoisseurs and Selous enthusiasts have long revelled in the opportunity to visit this forgotten corner of Africa, losing themselves to the sheer vastness of the wilderness. The scenic Rufiji River is always a highlight, but the hills, plains, dry riverbeds, marshes, forests and even the park’s hot spring ensure that every day is filled with variety and excitement.
Find out about Tanzania for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.
Safari spotting in Nyerere
Unsurprisingly, such a vast area of diverse habitats would support an impressive array of fauna and flora. The park is home to the Big 5 (though sightings of its black rhinos are rare), protecting significant populations of elephant, buffalo and lion, as well as many leopards. (For more African safaris offering Big 5 experiences, click here). Cheetah, spotted hyena, giraffe, zebra, eland, Coke’s hartebeest, waterbuck, and wildebeest are all present in healthy numbers in the park, and hippo and crocodiles are abundant in the permanent waterways. However, the region is most renowned for its substantial African wild dog (painted wolf) population, which may be one of the largest on the continent. Other rarities include large herds of sable antelope, puku and the delicate and shy suni.
The park is home to the Big 5, including leopard
Over 440 bird species have been recorded in the park, including a profusion of bee-eaters, a kaleidoscope of kingfishers, and a chatter of hornbills. Specials like the Udzungwa forest partridge, rufous-winged sunbird, Pel’s fishing owl and African skimmer are bound to enthral expert birders, and the plethora of great white pelicans, storks and herons occupying the lakes and rivers add delightful splashes of colour to an already picturesque scene.
Navigating Nyerere
In a place as vast and untamed as Nyerere, any visit should make the most of the opportunity to explore in every possible way. Indeed, game drives are an essential aspect of the experience. Yet one day spent in a vehicle could be followed by a morning’s boat safari and breakfast on a sandbar – surrounded by hippos and without another human being in sight. The terrain unequivocally lends itself to exploration on foot, in the company of an expert guide to expose and translate the natural marvels of the park. And for those looking for absolute immersion in nature, some lodges offer fly camping, with tents set up in the middle of the wilderness, with just a thin layer of canvas between their occupants and the creatures of the Nyerere night.
Nyerere’s dry riverbeds deliver epic sightings
Other attractions include the hot springs and the grave of Frederick Courteney Selous, the British explorer, officer, hunter and conservationist for whom the Selous Game Reserve was named. He was killed by a German sniper during World War I near the Beho Beho River.
Explore & stay in Nyerere
No matter the changes wrought over the next few years, it is doubtful that Nyerere will see the same number of tourists that flock to the north of the country every year. Instead, the park will likely retain the old Selous feeling of authentic, low-density, high-quality safaris centred around appreciating the surrounding wilderness. And while the scenery may be rugged, there is no shortage of luxury and ultra-luxury accommodation options – meaning that adventurous days end in the comfort of traditional East African hospitality. From rustic and simple to lamplit luxury, there are choices to suit most budgets.
Nyerere’s accommodation offerings have something to meet most budgets
The dry season from June until October offers the best wildlife viewing, as the vegetation is less dense, and animals are drawn to the banks of the Rufiji River. Much of the park becomes inaccessible at the height of the rainy season from around March to May. Tanzania’s second dry season, from mid-December until March, is also a good time for visiting birders looking to catch the incoming migrant species (and take advantage of low season rates).
Cruising the Rufiji River
An important adden‘dam’
Along its journey through the Selous to the Indian Ocean, the Rufiji River passes through Stiegler’s Gorge, once considered to be one of the main attractions in Selous, where the water plunges through a narrow ravine with walls 100 metres high. Here, former president Magufuli has commissioned the construction of Stiegler’s Gorge Hydropower Dam.
Despite the considerable outrage from environmentalists, construction began in 2020, and the dam is now apparently a fait accompli. Beset with challenges, the date of completion has been delayed to 2024. While the dam is set to cover just 2% of the Selous area, it will flood vital riverine forests and inevitably impact downstream habitats. Consequently, those wishing to experience the “old Selous” would be advised to book sooner rather than later.
Final thoughts on Nyerere
An ancient baobab stands sentinel on the plains below the Beho Beho Hills, squat and silent. Just over a hundred years ago, it would have witnessed World War I in Africa as bullets flew and nations clashed. Today, its presence serves as a poignant reminder that, while all things eventually pass, no wilderness is free from the scars of human folly. Nyerere National Park and Selous Game Reserve will soon be irrevocably changed, but the very essence of their wildness will endure. Elephants will still feed, dwarfed by towering palms, hippos will find their feet in new waterways, and fleet-footed wild dogs will bound across open plains. And adventurous souls will still find refuge in the raw and ancient beauty of ultimately untameable Nyerere.
River-side walking safaris take travellers to the heart of the action
Deep in the heart of the fynbos of South Africa lives a rare orchid, Disa forficaria, which has a fascinating relationship with its pollinator, the longhorn beetle, Chorothyse hessei. From the title of this article, one might think it should come with a PG rating but rest assured – this is simply nature at work in her strange and wonderful ways. The story of how the relationship between Disa forficaria and the longhorn beetle was discovered is fascinating in itself.
Disa forficaria is an orchid species identified from only nine plants from 11 records in the past 200 years and was considered extinct until one plant was rediscovered in 2016. Secondly, this orchid flowers only once every two years. Thirdly, only one flower opens at a time, and usually only if the sun is shining. Lastly, its pollinators’ activity is tightly linked to the midday hours. Nevertheless, after many visits to the lone specimen of Disa forficaria, biologist Callan Cohen struck lucky. One sunny day he found that one of the orchid’s intricate flowers was in full bloom, and he was taking photographs of this rare beauty when he saw what he thought was a wasp landing on the lip of the flower. He watched in amazement when the wasp-like insect started to copulate with the flower.
This looked like a case of sexual deception. The flower was attracting pollinators to its blooms by mimicking a female insect. But to prove this, further investigation was needed, and so Cohen assembled a team of scientists, each a specialist in either pollination, entomology, orchids or chemistry. They started to piece the remarkable puzzle together.
The pollinator
The scientists established that the suspect was not a wasp but a wasp-mimicking endemic longhorn beetle, C. hessei, and so, after noting that the only insects that visited the orchid were individuals of the longhorn beetle, and only males, the scientists set out to discover what was attracting this beetle to this flower.
The flower
The flowers of the Disa forficaria don’t have any nectar or food rewards but instead sweeten the deal by providing a “boudoir” for the beetle-gentlemen. One could say that the flowers are “dressed up” to look and smell like female longhorn beetles. Orchid species generally have flowers with a modified median petal – the labellum – and, together with the two horizontal petals, the flower forms a landing platform for a visiting insect. The labellum of this particular orchid species is hairy and kidney-shaped and at its tip is a hairy cleft. At the other end of the lip are some narrow, hairy petals which curve backwards, have minute hairs, and resemble antennae.
The interaction between beetle and flower
So what is the motive for the beetle? The male longhorn beetle wants a female longhorn beetle. But the wool is pulled over the male longhorn beetle’s eyes. First, he gets the scent of a female beetle. He follows it, and on arriving at a flower of D. forficaria, he lands on the flower’s labellum and sees some fine, curved petal appendages. He begins to stroke these with his antennae and also even occasionally bites the petals (which is common mating behaviour described for other longhorn beetles). He then starts copulatory behaviour. The authors have even found beetle sperm in the petal’s cleft. So how does pollination occur? The beetle is similar in length to the flower’s lip, and this means that it is perfectly positioned, whilst in the act of releasing its sperm, for the pollen packages attached to its thorax (gathered from previous foraging trips) to be deposited onto the orchid’s stigma. The authors observed that flowers that had been pollinated by the beetle later developed into fruit, thus showing the success of the pollination “event”.
The longhorn beetle attempting to copulate with the orchid. Photograph courtesy Callan Cohen and www.birdingafrica.com
The scent of a woman-beetle
But how did the beetle find his flower lover? The authors observed that the beetles used typical odour-tracking foraging movements, which was a clue to what attracted them: the scent. They then obtained an extract from the flower and, using complicated and intensive experimentation, identified the volatile compound in the floral extract which could be involved in the attraction. They called this compound ‘disalactone’ and proceeded to synthesise more of it. After establishing that longhorn beetle antennae reacted to puffs of this scent in the laboratory, they took this “beetle perfume” into the field to test it.
To determine whether the compound attracted the longhorn beetle, they set out an array of open glass vials, some containing the disalactone and others just acetone (to act as a control). They found that the jars of the disalactone attracted C. hessei longhorn beetles, all of which were male. The control jars did not attract any beetles.
In the meantime, as all this analysis and experimentation was happening in the laboratories, the original orchid plant in the field had sadly disappeared. But the scientists proceeded to do field experiments near the original orchid plant. This time they got creative and made model flowers consisting of dark beads on a dry reed, with ‘‘antennae’’ of plastic-coated wire and a small tuft of hair approximating the hairy lip of the flower at one end of the model. Some of the model flowers were treated with a droplet of disalactone in acetone, and the others with pure acetone (controls). Lo and behold, male C. hessei beetles were attracted to the disalactonen flowers and “frenetically” copulated with them too.
From this, the authors deduced that these orchids were luring the males to their flowers with a particular scent, most likely a scent closely simulating female longhorn beetle pheromones. The shape of the fake flowers was important, too, in eliciting copulatory behaviour. This behaviour promotes the transfer of pollen from the beetle to the flower’s stigma, thus facilitating effective pollination. The case was solved: this orchid was sexually deceiving male longhorn beetles! Sexual deception of bees and wasps by plants has often been observed, but deceiving beetles is a relatively rare and unique phenomenon in the plant kingdom.
And more good news
The field experiment also yielded another exciting discovery. Some of the male beetles that visited their fake flowers were seen to be carrying pollen sacs. So the scientists took samples of the pollen and, using DNA analysis, the pollen was identified as belonging to the Disa forficaria species, meaning that, happily, there are still other D. forficaria plants in existence out there – somewhere. Indeed, we might even be able to find them if we can work out a way to use male longhorn beetles to survey for them. This type of surveying would be a world first!
The authors conclude that the orchid’s sexual deception might be the reason for the ongoing persistence of this orchid species, even at such low population sizes. The fidelity of the male beetles to their female beetle-mimicking flowers might enhance the transfer of pollen, thus achieving high pollination rates and fruit set. Therefore, ensuring the survival of one of the rarest orchids in the world. The wiles of the wild are fascinating indeed.
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Rhino crisis averted + KAZA elephants + South Luangwa safari
WOW! In one masterstroke African Parks has solved one particular rhino crisis, silenced the solution-bereft peanut gallery and proven yet again what a fine organisation they are. Yes, there will be challenges, but my goodness what a move! If you are not sure what I mean, scroll down. On that note, our exciting upcoming joint tourism project with African Parks to increase responsible international tourism to their parks – Ukuri – has one more hurdle to clear before we go live. The launch delays – related to regulatory matters – have been unfathomably frustrating. Both teams are chomping at the bit to get the show on the road. Stand by for more information 😉
As you read this I will be on safari in Botswana’s Tuli Block with our 2023 Photographer of the Year winners. Tuli is one of the most under-rated safari destinations in Southern Africa. I was last there about ten years ago and look forward to meeting our talented winners and reacquainting with the Land of the Giants.
Meanwhile, in my hood the knobthorns are bedecked in golden canopies whose sweet perfume floats in and out of my day unannounced. Temperatures are rising and the bushveld is cork dry. The dry season will peak in a couple of months before the hoped-for short rains of October-November usher in the green season. Life is good!
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
We celebrate every conservation victory that boosts the rhino population. In our first story below we mention that there are fewer than 13,000 southern white rhinos left. But did you know that Africa is also home to the world’s most endangered antelope – the hirola – whose population numbers pale in comparison to rhinos?
There are fewer than 400 hirolas left in the wild (and none in captivity) in the few areas they remain in Kenya, and possibly Somalia. Wiped out by rinderpest, civil war, and habitat loss, they have been dubbed a “refugee species” as they are restricted to less than 5% of their historical range. Those that remain owe their survival to a few local Kenyan communities who set up the Ishaqbini Hirola Conservancy, and to the Hirola Conservation Program. But predictions are there will be fewer than 20 hirolas left in the next 50 years. Food for thought.
Also check out our second story below, which delves into the state of elephants in the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation area – a population that represents more than half of the remaining African savannah elephants.
Fancy an affordable, privately guided safari that takes you to the birthplace of walking safaris – South Luangwa? Or a special offer, perfect for families, to an island in the Okavango Delta, Botswana? Get in touch now!
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The fantastic combo of walking and driving on this epic South Luangwa safari will appeal to experienced safari-goers and first-timers alike. Expect exceptional game viewing and tracking on foot, scrumptious bush breakfasts and unforgettable sundowners. Did we mention leopards?
Kids stay FREE at Delta Camp, Okavango Delta, Botswana
Hidden in the forest of palm-studded Chief’s Island in the Okavango Delta, this camp is the perfect setting for a family safari. Book a family room for two adults, and two kids can stay free! Valid for bookings made up until the end of 2024. Now is your chance to introduce your kids to Africa!
South African safari: Cape Town & Timbavati
The McGrory family travelled with us to South Africa, visitingThe Commodore Hotelin Cape Town,Umlani Bush Campin Greater Kruger and more. They share their five-star safari experience:
“Christian (AG safari expert) organised a spectacular trip for us to South Africa on very short notice at a busy time of year. He did an amazing job of figuring out the best options for us. When our flight from the US was cancelled, he rearranged our days and managed to fit in almost all of the activities we had originally planned while minimising our stress.
Christian found safari lodges for us that were just the perfect vibe for our group, with an extremely knowledgeable guide who found us some unbelievable wildlife moments. In one safari lodge, we spent an afternoon by ourselves in a treehouse where we were extremely lucky to observe more than 30 elephants coming to drink at the waterhole. We managed to see leopards and wild dogs and even hyenas fighting over a dead buffalo after dark – and a lion kill as well. An absolutely unforgettable experience. We will be back!”
WATCH: Not for the faint hearted: A few months ago, video footage emerging from Mossel Bay, South Africa confirmed that orcas are capable of pursuing, capturing and incapacitating great white sharks – behaviour never before witnessed in such detail. This footage confirmed that the practice of orcas killing great white sharks was spreading – a trend that has far-ranging consequences for the sharks and the marine ecosystem. (3:08). Click here to watch
African Parks has just purchased the world’s largest rhino breeding operation – John Hume’s Platinum Rhino – to rescue and rewild the 2,000 southern white rhinos that, up until now, faced an uncertain future.
African Parks announced it would rewild the rhino over the next ten years to well-managed, secure protected areas across Africa. By establishing new populations and supplementing strategic populations, this move will significantly boost the future prospects of the species.
Rhino breeder Hume, who has been on the verge of bankruptcy for the past few years, made headlines earlier this year when he once again placed Platinum Rhino up for auction. The auction received no bids, putting these rhinos at risk of poaching and fragmentation. The 7,800-hectare captive-breeding rhino project, operating in the North West province of South Africa, has reportedly been tallying up a cost of $9,800 a day – an amount that Hume could no longer afford to pay.
After being approached by concerned members of the conservation fraternity about the potential crisis that awaited these rhinos, African Parks conducted due diligence and secured funding for the transaction. With the support of the South African government, African Parks agreed to purchase the farm and its rhinos.
The 2,000 rhinos represent up to 15% of the world’s remaining wild southern white rhino population (at less than 13,000 individuals), which is currently under extreme pressure due to poaching.
African Parks has extensive experience managing protected areas and conducting large-scale wildlife translocations. Over the years, the conservation NGO has brought rhinos back to Rwanda, Malawi and the Democratic Republic of Congo.
A southern white rhino cow and calf – two of the rhinos that will be rewilded within the next ten years
African Parks will phase out Platinum Rhino’s breeding programme, rewild the rhinos and bring the project to an end once all rewilding has occurred.
“African Parks had no intention of being the owner of a captive rhino breeding operation with 2,000 rhinos. However, we fully recognise the moral imperative of finding a solution for these animals so that they can once again play their integral role in fully functioning ecosystems,” said Peter Fearnhead, CEO of African Parks.
The South African government pledged support for the cause. Barbara Creecy, South African Minister of Forestry, Fisheries and Environment, said the government is “ready to support African Parks and other partners with technical and scientific advice in developing a conservation solution that includes translocating the animals over a period of time to suitable parks and community conservancies in South Africa and on the African continent.”
The Kavango-Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area has released the 2022 KAZA Elephant Survey results, revealing with cautious optimism that elephant populations within the region are stable.
The KAZA Transfrontier Conservation Area (TFCA) covers land in Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, and Zimbabwe. KAZA’s elephant population represents more than half of the remaining African savannah elephants on the continent.
The survey reveals an estimated elephant population of 227,900 in the KAZA TFCA – an increase of 10,000 from the population estimate made by the 2016 IUCN African Elephant Status Report. However, distinctly high elephant carcass ratios in certain areas may indicate high elephant mortality rates, highlighting the need for more investigation.
The survey revealed that Botswana hosts the highest number of elephants, with 131,909 elephants estimated to be present in the country during the survey. Across the KAZA TFCA, 58% of the elephants were found to be in Botswana, 29% in Zimbabwe, 9% in Namibia, and the remaining 4% were found in Zambia and Angola combined. Zambia is the only country showing a decline in elephant populations, with an estimated population of 3,840.
Elephant carcasses made up an estimated 10.47% of the total population – a cautionary signal of a possible negative population trend requiring further assessment. “Several factors are likely contributing to the somewhat elevated mortality we’re observing,” said Darren Potgieter, KAZA Elephant Survey coordinator. “Factors such as ageing populations, improved sampling methodologies, environmental conditions, and poaching could all be at play here.” Habitat loss and associated human-elephant conflict and disease were also cited as possible reasons for high mortality rates.
Fresh and recent carcasses (elephants that died in the 12 months prior to the survey) represented 0.51% (1,165 elephants) of the total estimate. The highest ratio of fresh and recent carcasses was observed in Botswana (962 carcasses – 0.72%). A concentration of fresh and recent carcasses were identified in the border region between Botswana and Namibia along the Kwando-Linyanti-Chobe River system. The Botswana Department of Wildlife and National Parks was informed of the high number of fresh carcasses seen during the survey, and an investigation into the cause of death is ongoing. Based on investigations, poaching has been ruled out, and the tusks on the carcasses were intact.
The survey also produced estimates for other species populations, such as buffalo, giraffe, wildebeest, and zebra. The number of livestock herds reflected a ratio of wildlife to domestic stock that was almost equal, highlighting growing pressures on water and rangelands.
The survey’s insight into human and livestock population distribution in relation to wildlife showed growing fragmentation and isolation of wildlife habitat. This fragmentation due to encroachment of human and livestock activity affects the connectivity and mobility of wildlife populations, making the ecosystem “vulnerable to disturbances and less able to adapt to changing climatic conditions”, said the report. There was also a trend of elephants being absent from regions heavily populated by humans and livestock. The survey revealed notably high pressure in the central Zambezi region of Namibia. This region, covering the Kwando and Zambezi-Chobe Wildlife Dispersal Areas, is critical for wildlife movement and migration.
The distribution of elephants showed a higher density of elephants near permanent water sources such as the Okavango and Chobe-Linyanti-Kwando River systems, as well as in parts of northwestern Matabeleland (Zimbabwe), where artificial water supplies are widely available in Hwange National Park.
Elephants in the Okavango Delta
Given the large survey area, several aircraft needed to be deployed simultaneously, requiring careful coordination. The survey was flown from August to October 2022 during the dry season when elephants could be seen more easily. The survey involved reconnaissance flights, ground support from logistics teams and various observers. 310,865km2 were sampled over 700 hours of flights. Using the CITES Monitoring the Illegal Killing of Elephants (MIKE) programme Aerial Survey Standards, the survey ensured rigorous quality assurance metrics.
In a joint communique, ministers from the KAZA TFCA pledged to translate the survey’s findings into practical policy measures and supportive legislation to ensure the long-term persistence of wildlife in the region.
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Hyenas in Maputo + dwarf mongoose + Namibian safari
Those of you that have been reading our stories for so many years will know that we focus on science and telling Africa’s stories from ground level. One way we do that is by decoding science – where we unpack peer-reviewed scientific findings and reword them so that you and I can understand and celebrate nature’s complexities and adaptive journey.
And there has been no-one better at doing this than Jamie Paterson, our scientific editor. Jamie, who is also studying to be a vet, has an eye for detail and a deep passion that goes way beyond anyone else I know. Her studies have reached that critical point where she will take a back seat from her teamAG duties. Her AG duties will be performed by others, but you will hear from Jamie now and then, just not as regularly. For example, she will continue to lead an annual safari to find and observe spotted felines and other predators. Thanks for sharing our journey so far Jamie, here’s to our ongoing friendship and your exciting future as a wildlife vet.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
“There is no time like Spring, when life’s alive in everything…” – Christina Rosetti
Today is Spring Day in Southern Africa, and after being frost-locked through winter, I could not be more relieved that hidden life is breaking through once again!
You will no doubt enjoy our two features this week, as they were penned by our dynamic Scientific Editor Jamie. And with Spring’s new beginning, we wish Jamie strength and good fortune on her new journey as she bids AG a subtle farewell.
Our first story below is the ultimate to-do list for Victoria Falls, which needs little by way of introduction. The perfect destination for adrenaline junkies, budget-conscious travellers, romancing couples and even for families, Vic Falls offers a smorgasbord of natural, cultural, and gastronomic delights. Check out our first story below to start planning your own adventure!
Our second story recognises the wonders of that graceful icon of the African safari: the kudu. As one of the more reliable sentinels in the bushveld and a picture of natural perfection in its own right, spotting a kudu is always a treat. Happy reading!
Story 2 https://africageographic.com/stories/kudu/
THE KUDU
Known for impressive spiral horns & doe-eyed, graceful countenance, the kudu is a fascinating antelope and an icon of the African safari
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
Our safari selections this week include a magic safari combo of Big 5 bushveld and beach life in Malawi, as well as a SUPER November special at an idyllic lodge in Zambia. Have a peak below and be inspired to book your next safari with us.
Malawi Big 5 bush & beach safari – 7 days / 6 nights – from US$3,170pps
Discover the Big 5, cheetahs and wild dogs of Majete Wildlife Reserve before unwinding on Lake Malawi’s tranquil shores. Seamlessly transition between these stunning locations, and experience the conservation success that is Majete, as well as the white sand beaches and water activities of one of Africa’s most popular great lakes.
I have always loved this time of year, even living in the Highveld, where the cold has yet to lift. With its cheerful birdsong, luminous greens and bright blossoms, Spring for me comes with a sigh of relief.
But today is bittersweet because, as Simon and Taryn have intimated, the time has come for me to focus on my studies. And to do that, I need to step back from my permanent duties as part of teamAG.
Given the number of articles I have written (nearly 300, I counted!), it seems strange that words should be failing me now, but I am struggling to do justice to the extraordinary company that is Africa Geographic. And, of course, its team of dedicated professionals. I shall be forever grateful for having had the opportunity to work alongside such incredible individuals, driven as they are by passion and integrity.
Likewise, it has been a profound privilege to share some of Africa’s majesty – triumphs and tragedies alike – with our dedicated subscribers, followers and travellers. Thank you for sharing in my passion (and tolerating my occasionally peculiar sense of humour!).
Fortunately, as Simon explained, this is not a permanent farewell, and the ongoing friendship will ensure that I shall always be able to call Africa Geographic home.
THANK YOU
A big THANK YOU to all those who donated to help pangolin poaching victims during our three-month Save a Pangolin campaign. Your donations will continue to cover the expenses of treatment, medical equipment, and rehabilitation, to give these pangolins a second chance at spending a long life in the wild. We are happy to report that since May, four pangolins who received treatment from Provet have successfully been rehabbed and released back into the wild, while four are still undergoing treatment and rehabilitation.
Please continue to lend your support and donate to this important cause. Africa’s pangolins and the dedicated teams saving them still need YOUR help!
Please note all pangolins are housed off-site at a secure location for security purposes.
WATCH: Longing to see gorillas in the wild? Come on safari with Africa Geographic and make your travel dreams a reality. Choose from our carefully curated safari packages or customise your own adventure with our travel team. Why wait? Start planning your perfect trip now! (0:56). Click here to watch
As the largest waterfall in the world, Victoria Falls needs little by way of introduction. Even to the uninitiated, the name conjures images of water thundering down into gorges, mist-soaked vistas, verdant vegetation, and adventure. The lively towns of Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwean side and Livingstone on the Zambian side are split down the middle by the Zambezi River at its most dramatic – the perfect escape for every traveller, from adrenaline junkies and budget-strapped students to families and romancing couples.
With a smorgasbord of natural, cultural, and gastronomic delights on offer and only a few days to enjoy them, deciding how best to spend one’s time can be something of a challenge! Have a look at our ultimate Victoria Falls to-do list to inspire your next itinerary. Then, check out all the info you need for planning your Victoria Falls safari here (including our ready-made packages). And search for the best accommodation in Victoria Falls here.
Grab your camera and set out on a tour of mighty Victoria Falls
It should go without saying that the magnificent waterfall should be the first port of call for any visit to the region. Here the mighty Zambezi River gathers its strength and tumbles off a plateau nearly two kilometres wide before plunging into a series of dramatic gorges 100 metres below. The tours through the forests and to the best viewing points are conducted in the morning and afternoon to showcase this spectacle of Africa in the best light. With shimmering rainbows, clouds of thick spray and the thundering power of the water, touring the Falls is an all-encompassing sensory extravaganza.
There are a number of excellent viewing platforms for experiencing Victoria Falls
Soak in the magic of the sunset on a Zambezi Dinner Cruise
Upstream of the Falls, the Zambezi River is gentle and serene, offering the perfect balm for the soul after an action-packed day. Decompress as the ripples of the river shimmer beneath one of Africa’s blazing sunsets and give way to the romance of the moment, replete with good food, fine drink and excellent company.
Enjoy delicious snacks and sundowners while listening for the cry of the fish eagle in the fading sunlight hours
Tour Livingstone Island, enjoy breakfast or high tea and take a dip in Devil’s Pool
Livingstone Island is often touted as the point at which David Livingstone first set eyes upon Victoria Falls (though one must imagine the noise might have tipped him off beforehand) and is positioned at the very edge of the Falls. Follow in David’s footsteps to the island in the company of experienced guides before sitting down to a hearty breakfast or high tea. Thrill-seekers can also swim into a rock pool (Devil’s Pool) and perch with elbows dangling out over the drop below!
It is important to note that this activity is only offered during the low-water months from August to January and can only be accessed from the Zambian side of Victoria Falls.
Take a dip in hair-raising Devil’s Pool
Spot the Big 5 on a game drive
Zambezi National Park (Zimbabwe), Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park (Zambia) and Victoria Falls Private Game Reserve (Zimbabwe) all provide exceptional opportunities to encounter the Big 5, along with a variety of other species. Climb aboard an open four-wheel drive vehicle and see if you can spot one of the region’s elusive black rhinos!
Spot the Big Five in one of the protected areas near the Falls
Take in the fascinating story of Victoria Falls on the Historical Bridge Tour
Transport yourself back in time to when Cecil John Rhodes envisioned a railway running from Cape to Cairo and the geographical impediments blocking its path. Descend onto the catwalks below the Victoria Falls Bridge and consider the feats of engineering involved in its construction at the very start of the 20th century. The tongue-in-cheek guides will provide a light-hearted but detailed history of this remarkable structure.
The historical Victoria Falls Bridge
Adventure to nearby Chobe National Park for the day
Botswana’s Chobe National Park is a name imbued with the spirit of safari legend – a land of dramatic wildlife viewing and hundreds upon hundreds of elephants. Set out on a short drive from the Falls to the nearest border post, where a Botswana guide will collect you for the day’s activities. Enjoy a morning boat cruise on the lazy Chobe River, admiring the wildlife on the floodplains before enjoying lunch and an afternoon game drive.
Enjoy sundowners on the Chobe River
Plunge through the rapids of some of the best white water rafting in the world
The rapids below the falls are classified as Grade V, and nothing is quite as humbling as experiencing the sheer power of the water, armed with just a plastic oar and a lifejacket. The mighty river will propel you through a thrilling series of twists, turns, and heart-stopping drops, interspersed with stretches of calm where you can catch your breath and soak in the beauty of the towering gorges and verdant surrounds.
White water rafting is only guaranteed in August and September, though the season may vary depending on water levels.
Experience world-class white water rafting below the Falls
Immerse yourself in a gourmet experience at the Dusty Road Township Dining Experience
Situated deep in the heart of the bustling Chinotimba township, not far from Victoria Falls town centre, Dusty Road offers a vibrant dining experience unlike any other. Amidst rustic tables and flickering lanterns, indulge your tastebuds with a tantalizing array of flavours crafted from locally sourced ingredients.
Enjoy the tasty delights of the Dusty Road Township Experience
Chase that adrenaline rush on the flying fox/gorge swing/zipline/bungee jump
Victoria Falls is considered Africa’s adventure capital and is overflowing (literally?) with electrifying activities for thrill-seekers. The bungee jump off the iconic Victoria Falls Bridge is one of the world’s highest jumps. The gorge swing will pendulum you out over Batoka Gorge in an exhilarating zero-gravity experience. Intrepid travellers on the zipline (foefie slide) will reach speeds of over 100km/hr over the gorge, while those looking for a more sedate (but still vertigo-inducing) approach can opt for the flying fox.
The Gorge Swing is only for the brave
Embark on a journey through time (and enjoy a scrumptious meal) on the Steam Train
Climb aboard the luxury steam train at Victoria Falls station and let it transport you to a bygone era of splendour. The train will stop on the Victoria Falls Bridge just in time to watch the sunset in one of the most magical spots in Africa. Then it is time to sit down to a gourmet dinner as the train chuffs its way through the bushveld.
Experience the elegance of a steam train dinner
Take to the skies and admire the scenery of Victoria Falls from above on the ‘Flight of Angels’ helicopter trip
David Livingstone was so taken with the beauty of the Falls that he famously suggested that “scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight”, so how better to appreciate them than from the sky? The helicopters have cleverly designed bubble-shaped windows to enjoy the panoramic views over the falls and surrounds.
Enjoy a flip to experience an epic view of Victoria Falls
Keep on track on a Bicycle Tour along the Zambezi River
Cycle along the Batoka Gorge, stopping every now and again to take in the breath-taking views before encountering the world-famous Big Tree (a massive baobab believed to be 3,500 years old) and cycle across the Victoria Falls Bridge, all in the company of an expert guide.
Dine out on the world-famous experience at The Boma
The Boma restaurant is about more than ordering dinner; it is a complete Zimbabwean cultural experience. Join the hand-washing ceremony before sampling the traditional beer to whet the appetite before dinner. During the varied meal of everything from venison to mopane worms, Tsonga dancers, storytellers and entertainers will hold the floor. Then take to the dance floor and show off your newly-mastered dance moves!
Enjoy the electric atmosphere while dining at The Boma
Saddle up and canter out into the wilderness on horseback (all experience levels are catered for!)
Exploring the wilderness on horseback is a unique experience, not least because the wild animals do not perceive the horses as a threat, allowing for unusually close encounters with otherwise shy ungulates such as kudu or impala. Spend the day tracking elephants and buffaloes in the deep shade of the Zambezi River’s riverine forests and perhaps even stop for a brief siesta during the day’s hottest hours.
Horse ride through this beautiful corner of Africa
Clip on a harness and swing out on a Canopy Tour
With a network of nine slides over the gorges, trails and a ropeway bridge through the hardwood forests, the Victoria Falls canopy tour offers some of the area’s best views. Furthermore, this experience is open to adventure-seekers of all ages, including families and groups.
Ziplining provides a whole new perspective on the Falls
Go curio and craft shopping and find the perfect souvenir from the perfect Victoria Falls holiday
Enthusiastic shoppers will find their senses overwhelmed on this daily tour of open-air markets, crochet halls, galleries and boutique stores selling handcrafted works of art. Admire the stone sculptures, wooden carvings, textiles, jewellery and crochet lovingly created by local artisans and pick out gifts for loved ones back home.
There are so many curios to choose from when shopping in and around Victoria Falls
Now that you are armed with our ultimate Victoria Falls to-do list, it’s time to start planning your holiday! Contact our travel experts to explore one of the world’s most incredible natural marvels.
If cliches are to be believed, then beauty is in the eye of the beholder – a subjective standard upon which there can be no universal agreement. Yet of Africa’s over 70 antelope species, there can be no question that some are more bewitching than others. There are the stately eland and the glamorous sable, the burnished nyala and the beguiling impala. And then there is the kudu, the doe-eyed epitome of grace and elegance, all slender legs and eyes and a magnificent set of horns.
There are no beauty competitions in the wilderness (thank goodness), but if there were, the kudu would unequivocally be a shoo-in for one of the top spots.
All about the kudus (kudos?)
There are two species of kudu – the greater kudu (Tragelaphus strepsiceros) and the lesser kudu (Tragelaphus imberbis). Though humans could probably have done a better job with the common names (“lesser” is a bit pejorative, is it not?), the monikers accurately capture the size difference between the two. The greater kudu – an icon of the African safari – is substantially taller and heavier than its comparatively petite cousin. Lesser kudu also have a smaller distribution and are found only in East Africa, with a preference for semi-arid habitats. Greater kudu occur more widely across much of the continent, including most of southern and East Africa and just south of the Sahel in Central Africa.
Size aside, the morphological differences between the two species are subtle. The males are similarly equipped with an impressive pair of spiralling horns (more on these below), and sexual dimorphism is pronounced. Both species are decorated with a strip of white on the back, which bleeds into a delicate pattern of stripes running down the flank like dripping paint. White chevrons run from the inside of the eyes, contrasting against the rufous coat. Male greater kudu have a well-developed ridge of hair that runs down the length of the neck like an upside-down mohawk. This feature is absent in the lesser kudu, which instead has a striking set of black and white bands.
Both species are cryptic antelope with a preference for dense vegetation. They are not fast and rely instead on their agility and spectacular jumping prowess to escape potential predators, jinking and jiving through the trees when pursued. Kudu are relatively strict browsers (though greater kudu have been observed grazing) and can survive for long periods without drinking, supplementing their water intake with succulents and fruits.
Kudu can effortlessly leap two and a half metres into the air
Quick facts about the kudu
Greater kudu
Lesser kudu
Av. Height (shoulder)
M: 135-160cm
F: 121 cm
M: 95-105 cm
F: 90-100 cm
Av. Mass
M: 190-270kg
F: 120-210 kg
M: 90-108 kg
F: 56-70 kg
Gestation period
240 days (8 months)
Between 7 and 8 months
IUCN Red List
Least Concern
Near Threatened
To a greater or lesser extent
It is no secret that our understanding of antelope phylogeny is not dissimilar to a tangled ball of wool at present – based on physical similarities and occasionally inaccurate assumptions. Scientists are using genetic tools to disentangle the mess and have made considerable strides towards understanding evolutionary relationships. However, a great deal of work is still to be done. Kudu belong to the Tragelaphini – the spiral-horned antelope tribe, which includes nine different species in two genera (for now). Thus, they are related to eland, nyala, bushbuck, sitatunga and the bongo. The closest relatives to this tribe are bovines, such as buffalos, bison, and wild cattle.
The natural assumption would be that the greater and lesser kudu would be more closely related to each other than any other member of the Tragelaphini tribe, but, fascinatingly, this does not seem to be the case. A comprehensive analysis conducted in 2005 of mitochondrial DNA suggested that the lesser kudu is the basal member of the tribe. Even more confusingly, later research on nuclear DNA indicated that lesser kudu and nyala separated from the rest of the Tragelaphini at least 13 million years ago. Either way that means that, bizarrely, the lesser kudu is more closely related to the nyala, and the greater kudu is more closely related to the mountain nyala. The distance between the lesser kudu and the rest of the Tragelaphini tribe has even prompted some scientists to argue that it represents an entirely different genus – the Ammelaphus.
As if the hairs could not be split any finer, next comes the subspecies question. There are currently three commonly accepted subspecies of greater kudu:
s. strepsiceros – occurs over much of southern Africa
s. chora – found in northeastern Africa, in northern Kenya, Ethiopia, Somalia, Eritrea and eastern Sudan
s. cottoni – found in scattered populations in Chad and western Sudan
None of these subspecies has yet been recognised on the IUCN Red List. Some biologists have even proposed splitting the greater kudu into four different species (!) based on genetic evidence and morphological differences. But we may have to cross that bridge when it becomes more widely accepted…
Greater kudu (left) and lesser kudu (right)
Spiralling out
At this juncture, moving swiftly along from the minutiae of kudu taxonomy to some of their more apparent features seems appropriate. Naturally, the impressive spiral horns of the bulls tend to leave a lasting impression on first-time visitors to Africa, making them a delightful spot on any safari. (Check out these safaris where you can spot kudu and more). In greater kudu, these bony protuberances can achieve two and a half or even three full twists and, if straightened, would reach over a metre in length. Record-breaking specimens have been measured at over 180cm.
Male kudus darken with age, and the rufous coat becomes greyer in colour
The bulls use these horns primarily as an intimidation tactic. Kudu are gregarious and not territorial, but competition may arise over a female in oestrus (receptive to mating). However, actual physical confrontations are rare, and the larger, more dominant bull usually frightens away potential competitors by displaying his full size. Evenly matched contenders may clash horns, sometimes with fatal consequences. Though such reports are sporadic, kudu bulls have been known to tangle their twisting horns so severely that they find themselves locked together and may eventually die of dehydration, a broken neck or predation.
Like the stag of Aesop’s Fables, these magnificent horns have disadvantages, especially for an animal that usually runs through dense vegetation to escape predators. When fleeing, the bulls occasionally stretch their heads forward and tilt the horns flat along their necks, making navigation challenging. (There is a common old guide’s tale that they can roll their eyes back and look back at the pursuing predator through the hollow horn – it should not need to be clarified that this is physically impossible. The horn is solid bone.) It does not, however, seem to hinder them unduly!
Kudu bulls may clash horns over females in oestrus
The sense and sensibility of the kudu
The enormous satellite-dish ears of the kudu are another notable feature contributing to their other-worldly, innocent beauty. Fairly obviously, these exaggerated auricles are essential in catching and amplifying sound waves, conferring an exceptional sense of hearing. The kudu’s excellent aural faculties and equally acute eyesight make them one of the more reliable sentinels in the bushveld. When a kudu spots a potential predator, it lets loose an astonishingly loud alarm bark that can travel several kilometres on a cold morning. Many a desperate guide following this booming sound has found themselves well rewarded with a leopard or lion sighting courtesy of a vigilant kudu.
Kudus let out loud alarm barks when alerted to the presence of predators
Even without the bonus of a big cat, any aesthete should appreciate the opportunity to feast their eyes upon the picture of natural perfection that is the kudu. They are shy animals and not always confiding around vehicles full of loud, gawking onlookers, but most will allow for a brief sighting if approached carefully. Kudu-seekers will generally find greater kudus without difficulty on most popular safari tracks. Lesser kudus can be a bit more tricky, but the arid areas of southern Kenya and northern Tanzania are an excellent place to start.
Want to see greater and lesser kudu in the wild? Get in touch with our travel team to discuss your kudu-seeking safari – details below this story.
After this post went live, we received the results of an audit of the Tcheku Community Trust, reflecting significant financial irregularities. The most serious involves the trophy hunter featured in our exposé. According to the audit report, the 2022 trophy hunting fee of US$100,000 paid by the hunter was about half of the stipulated reserve price. The audit report reveals that the Trust general manager accepted the lower offer from the trophy hunter without the required approval of the Trust Board. One wonders why he would do that. No wonder the trophy hunter’s gross profit we reported is so obscenely high!
The discussions in our app reveal a few pro-hunters attempting to whitewash this situation. One gent accused me/AG of a “hit job on the hunting industry ameteurshly (sic) disguised as a social injustice crusade“. The argument put forward by another is that this is the only alternative to no revenue at all. My my, what low standards the trophy hunting industry demands we all accept.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Every species has a part to play in its ecosystem. Hyenas, though often mistaken for the underdog, keep natural checks and balances in place between dead matter, plant life, prey and predators. So when an important ecosystem engineer like the hyena is absent, a tipping point looms. Aspiring to this bigger picture, Maputo National Park in Mozambique has released five hyenas into its system to recalibrate the balance – scoring a rewilding win for southern Africa. Read more in our first story.
And from one fearsome predator to the next: In our second story, we honour one of Africa’s most ferocious and courageous fighters: the dwarf mongoose. With razor-sharp claws and sharp teeth juxtaposed with an otherwise adorable fluffy exterior, the dwarf mongoose is Africa’s smallest mammalian predator. Read more to see what we love about these enigmatic little creatures.
Let us take you on an adventure to experience all Namibia has to offer or go in search of the Big 5 in Greater Kruger. Let us make your safari wishes a reality:
What does it take to keep a wild rhino alive in South Africa? There is no short or easy answer to that question. There may not even be a right one. The custodians of our beloved tubby grey icons have been thrust into an ever-changing war without rules, forced to trial and evaluate different strategies as they go along.
Compiled by a cross-disciplinary team of scientists and reserve managers, the 17-page report delves into the successes and failures of various interventions, including camera technologies, K9 units, dehorning and so on. This monumental project is of profound importance and offers an eye-opening glimpse into the complexities of rhino conservation. It is well worth a read!
Wonderful safari experience to South Africa & Zimbabwe
The Siskind family had a wonderful experience travelling with us to Pungwe Safari Camp in Greater Kruger, South Africa and to Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge bordering Gonarezhou National Park, Zimbabwe. They had spectacular wildlife encounters in both countries and also had multiple wild dog sightings. Their plains game and elephant sightings were just as plentiful. Michael Siskind shares feedback on the experience:
“Africa Geographic was able to tailor our trip to what we wanted: a small unpretentious bush camp in the greater Kruger, where wildlife sightings are perhaps easier to come by, coupled with the wilderness experience of the far more remote Gonarezhou. AG succeeded on all accounts. Our week in Gonarezhou was essentially our own private expedition into the park. Due to the logistics of the trip, its success was dependent on the smooth functioning of multiple transfers, both vehicle and plane. The trip was very well organised and all transfers took place without a hitch. We look forward to planning another trip with AG!”
WATCH: Watch as two of Africa’s biggest and heaviest animals go head to head in a very rarely seen sighting. The hippo is trying his luck with the rhinos, but the rhinos are having none of it (2:44). Click here to watch
Fearsome predators are stalking the savannahs of Africa. With pointed, gleaming teeth and razor-sharp claws, they roam in packs and instil fear into the heart of their prey. They are ferocious fighters, capable of taking on deadly enemies through lightning-fast reflexes and almost reckless courage. They are dwarf mongoose, and each one is roughly the size and weight of a soda can.
Pint-sized predators
Africa’s smallest mammalian predator – the dwarf mongoose (Helogale species) – is an animal that is remarkably easy to anthropomorphise. Something in their beady, shining eyes speaks to considerable intelligence and personality, wrapped in an adorable, fluffy package. They are found from Ethiopia and Somalia to the northeastern corner of South Africa. Dwarf mongoose are a common sight on safari, though often dismissed in favour of the bigger and “more exciting” animals (to find the ideal African safari and spot dwarf mongooses in the wild, click here). Yet a bit of patience guarantees a rewarding sighting in their charming company.
Dwarf mongooses belong to the Herpestidae family, comprising over thirty mongoose species (including suricates/meerkats) spread across Europe, Africa, and Asia. Unbeknownst to most, there are two species of dwarf mongoose: the common dwarf mongoose (Helogale parvula) and the overlapping Ethiopian dwarf mongoose (Helogale hirtula). Though mongooses are famously charismatic animals, a considerable facet of dwarf mongoose appeal is their sociality. Like the banded mongoose and meerkat, dwarf mongoose live, reproduce and forage in cooperative groups.
These groups number between three to thirty individuals, where everything from territorial defence to raising pups is a team affair. A consequence of this collective approach to life is a complex social structure and hierarchy governed by fascinating community rules and peppered with surprising nuances.
Dwarf mongoose operate in cooperative groups with complex social structures
Quick dwarf mongoose facts
Length
18-30cm
Mass
210-350 grams
Social structure
Groups of up to thirty
Gestation
49-53 days
IUCN Red List classification
Least Concern
Dwarf mongoose: tiny terrors of the bush
During the day, dwarf mongoose move through the vegetation in search of predominantly insect prey (but will also feed on reptiles, small mammals and birds). However, standing just a few centimetres off the ground makes it almost impossible to maintain visual contact, and thus vocal communication is of tremendous importance in dwarf mongoose societies. They chatter almost constantly to each other via a series of contact squeaks. Threats are communicated through a multitude of alarm calls, which convey not only the type of threat (bird, snake, and so on) but also the urgency. Some calls will make the entire group stop and look around, while others will send them scurrying for the nearest cover.
Fierce though the little animals may be, they are still on the menu for various birds of prey, mammalian predators and snakes. Like most members of the mongoose family, dwarf mongoose have some innate resistance to snake venom, but contrary to popular belief, this does not confer complete immunity.
They may be Africa’s smallest mammalian predator, but dwarf mongoose are incredibly fierce
Miniature monarchs
A dominant pair lead dwarf-mongoose groups, usually consisting of the oldest male and female. These pocket-sized patricians are the only ones guaranteed to reproduce, while the rest of the group (composed of related and unrelated individuals) focuses on protecting the pups each season. This can entail everything from babysitting and guarding the den to providing food and teaching the pups valuable hunting skills. Like meerkats, some subordinate females (around 12%) mate and fall pregnant, but these offspring are usually either aborted or killed by the dominant female. The reproductive cycles of all group females are highly synchronised, meaning that they enter oestrus within days of each other. Consequently, subordinate females may further contribute by lactating and suckling the dominant pair’s pups.
Naturally, the drive to reproduce is a biological imperative. So, subordinate mongooses are left with two options: wait their turn for a shot at the top position or disperse and find another group with better prospects. In dwarf mongooses, both males and females disperse, though males are more likely to do so.
A dwarf mongoose relaxes in the sand in the Okavango Delta
Playful pups, hungry hornbills (and viral videos)
Pups are born during the rainy season when insect prey is abundant and prosperous groups may raise several successive litters of four to six pups yearly. The minuscule pups are born into a dangerous world, and even the relative security of their termite mound dens does not guarantee their safety. Snakes represent a constant threat to young babies, so den-bound young are left with babysitters. At the same time, the rest of the group forages. If a snake is spotted, these babysitters will sound the alarm and even mob and distract the offending reptile while the pups are transported to safety.
Den-bound pups are left with babysitters
When the pups emerge from the den, their world is filled with things to explore and lessons to learn. With the energy intrinsic to the young of all mammals, they immediately engage in nibbling, wrestling, begging for food and, hilariously, scent-marking. The latter is particularly entertaining because dwarf mongoose have scent glands positioned under the tail, and the secretions are deposited as high above the ground as possible (conveniently at nose level for the receiver). Given their rather stubby legs, this contortion involves a handstand accompanied by an impressive wiggle. For uncoordinated, growing pups, it is a movement that is particularly difficult to master.
Another important lesson for dwarf mongoose pups is good relations with their neighbours. Dwarf mongooses have a particularly fascinating mutualistic relationship with hornbills. The hornbills can scoop up the insects disturbed by the foraging mongooses while providing additional security through watchful eyes at a higher vantage point. This association is so beneficial to both parties that they will await the arrival of the other before setting out for the day. However, in one now-viral incident, a baby mongoose was recorded inviting the hornbill to play with it by “pretending to be dead“.
Sentinels, signals, and snubbing
In addition to pup rearing, dwarf mongoose engage in several other cooperative behaviours, including acting as sentinels and allogrooming. Through observing these behaviours, scientists have gleaned a wealth of information about the subtleties of dwarf mongoose ethology. For example, serving as the group’s lookout is a particularly revealing behaviour as it comes at some cost to the individual in the form of lost foraging and feeding opportunities. It also requires considerable trust because, although the rest of the group remains alert, a dozy sentry could spell death from above or below. Research has shown that new arrivals (immigrants) are considered less “trustworthy” as sentinels for up to five months until they have earned the group’s trust. Conversely, the male and female of the dominant pair appear to be regarded as the most reliable sentinels.
Sentinels are rewarded with allogrooming for their time served
Though acting sentinel may seem a burdensome task, experts have also found it well-rewarded come sunset. Just before they retreat below ground for the night, the group members gather together at the entrance of their chosen burrow and set about grooming each other. Allogrooming reinforces the bonds between group members and helps to reduce anxiety levels. Animals that acted as sentinel each day were rewarded with this affirming grooming during these socialisation periods, suggesting that dwarf mongoose are not only aware of which individuals are putting in the work but capable of retaining that information throughout the day. Even more astounding, troublemakers that instigate aggressive encounters are also noted with disdain and “punished” at the end of the day with less attention. In other words, bullies are essentially snubbed by the rest of the group!
A considerable facet of dwarf mongoose appeal is their sociality
Final thoughts on dwarf mongoose
A dwarf mongoose sighting is usually first announced by a streak of brown fur flashing across the track. But sit tight, and you will hear the chirrups of the rest of the group as they regroup. With patience, their natural curiosity generally wins out, and little heads will emerge to investigate the situation with bright eyes. While lions and elephants are always exciting finds, it is always worth remembering that Africa’s little animals can be just as enthralling.
Spotted hyena have returned to Maputo National Park
Apex predators have serious status. The lion lies in first place in the mighty hierarchy of Africa’s food chain – a fair call given their magnificence and top-down significance. But no species exists in isolation; survival hinges on the interplay between each species. Aspiring to this bigger picture, Maputo National Park in Mozambique (declared in 2021, joining Maputo Special Reserve and Ponta do Ouro Partial Marine Reserve) is topping up its scavenger quota, beginning this month with five spotted hyena incoming from Sabie Game Park. Not to oversell the underdogs, this represents another great if unsuspecting, rewilding win for southern Africa. Peace Parks Foundation shares this report.
“Without impalas and hyenas, the lion cannot be the king of the jungle.” – African proverb
For a time, wildlife suffered across Mozambique’s protected areas and, as a result, so did ‘functionality’ – how well the environment could work, by and for itself. Rebuilding this rhythm at scale is a highly sensitive, strategic process since every living thing has its place and dependencies within the system. This includes spotted hyena, previously eradicated in the park, but for a small leftover population. To fix this and restore the balance that comes with a vital scavenging role is precisely what Mozambique’s National Administration for Conservation Areas (ANAC) and Peace Parks have set out to do.
A new age and status for Maputo National Park
Maputo National Park was proclaimed in 2021 after merging Maputo Special Reserve, and Ponta do Ouro Marine Reserve. It forms an integral 1,700km² of the Lubombo Transfrontier Conservation and Resource Area. (To learn more about safaris in this special area, click here.) Remarkably, the park falls within the Maputaland-Pondoland-Albany Biodiversity Hotspot, one of 36 hotspots amongEarth’s most biologically diverse and endangered ecoregions. This has been a powerful motivation in presenting it to the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) for assessment and approval as a World Heritage Site, an extension of the adjoining iSimangaliso Wetland Park in South Africa, which already carries World Heritage status.
ANAC, which directs the management of Mozambique’s National Parks and Reserves, and Peace Parks Foundation signed a 15-year agreement in 2018 to restore, develop and manage the park – taking joint responsibility for the health and wealth of its supernature in the wake of a civil war. Among this region’s remaining biodiversity bank were many species needing rehab – and not just the iconic ones.
The art of revival: go big with hyena to go wild
And so began an ambitious wildlife translocation programme to Maputo National Park. The aim is to bring back nature by reintroducing animals historically found in the area. Boosting the recovery of their populations is essential to developing the park as a tourist destination. Still, it is vital to restoring balance and abundance far and beyond the acclaim of re-building the Big Five and friends.
Hyena are relative latecomers to the rewilding party, with an impressive inventory of plains game having been introduced over time to Maputo National Park and thriving since. Now it’s the turn of the hunter-scavengers, and they should have no shortage of dining options.
Rewilding began with kudu, impala, giraffe, buffalo, wildebeest, eland, zebra and other plains game species being trucked in. By 2022, 5,101 animals had been successfully translocated into the park from wildlife-plentiful parks and reserves, including 11 species that had become locally extinct. Many are now bouncing back naturally under the renewed protection of the park’s rangers, and thanks to natural animal ‘walkways’ restoring connectivity between historical ranges.
The park’s 2021 aerial census counted more than 12,000 animals, a marker of richness and progress but not necessarily completeness. And so the need has been recognised for the reintroduction of scavengers: the five hand-picked hyenas from Sabie Game Park, a protected area in western Mozambique which shares its borders with South Africa’s iconic Kruger National Park. Sabie can happily and healthily spare a small clan thanks to its wildlife revival.
Translocations require immense patience, skill and resilience. The success of these operations, from shifting five scavengers to scores of herbivores, is thanks to the expert teams, experienced organisations and supporting partners to Peace Parks
No rewilding operation is a basic case of shifting species X from A to B. An expertly coordinated and carefully executed plan is tailored to each translocation, often involving multiple teams and partners. The Mozambique Wildlife Alliance, an organisation key to the success of this move and many gone before, makes the vastly complex process of relocating animals safely and smoothly orchestrated. Its vets have seen many a species land successfully in their new homes and go on to flourish. With a quarter of Mozambique declared conservation space equipped with a visionary rewilding outlook and great motivation, their services will be valued here for many years.
When moving hyena, micro-management is required from the start, given the complex hierarchical clan structure. Family ties and hierarchy must be respected for the founder population to get along with each other and their neighbouring kin. The capture is equally complex; successful baiting in the dark depends on duping and doping the suspicious scavengers. Once caught, they are loaded onto vehicles and translocated directly to bomas in Maputo National Park. Resting and refuelling in these holding pens allows them time to build reserves and get new bearings until they’re declared good to go by the vigilant vets and the Maputo National Park conservation team.
Setting up a bait station to attract hyenas
Bad-turned-good friends with benefits
With plains game thriving and a prey stockpile mounting nicely, it is now the predators’ time to shine in the park. The spotted scavengers are vital in paving the way for the much-anticipated big cats and helping things run smoothly and cleanly.
The new clan will act in a supporting predation role to the cheetah that is hoped to be introduced soon – and all eyes will be on them as they do. Some of them will have satellite collars fitted pre-release. This data feed, along with the park’s considerable camera trap network, will allow teams to monitor group composition and condition and to understand each individual’s patterns of movement and behaviour.
The hyenas were released into bomas inside Maputo National Park
Their new home is full of hope and opportunity, which is long overdue for a species with a history of coexisting on the edge. It is also a new era richly deserved by a park where dedicated efforts to rewild, protect, connect and sustain already influence entire landscapes and communities within and beyond its bounds. It is a promising prospect for hyenas as they gradually re-establish and extend their range to benefit the entire transboundary tree of life.
Gaining this species which values kinship so highly for its survival, Maputo National Park can be proud to forge this ecological friends-with-benefits relationship between hyenas, humans and ecosystems. It is a testament to the will to revive great spaces and their many wild assets… and uplift the underdog.
“Declare kinship with the hyena, and all hyenas are your friend.” African Proverb.
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Best safari month + talking testes + elegant impala
There is a debate going on in our office about the best time to go on safari, and several of our safari experts swear October is the best month for an African adventure. With predators easy to spot at waterholes in southern Africa, fewer crowds at those Mara River wildebeest crossings and warm weather favouring relaxation on the beach, there are plenty of reasons to start planning an October safari now. Read why in our first post below.
And then, as common as mud yet far more captivating, impalas are a staple of any safari experience. Described by ecologist Dr Richard Estes as “the perfect antelope”, impalas are known for their resilience and athleticism. We still enjoy spending time observing herds of these doe-eyed mammals, and our second story below may have you seeing them in a new light.
Finally, the vets at Provet this week are treating one of their tiniest pangolins yet – a newborn pup whose mom clung to him with all her might to protect him from poachers. Read more about our Save a Pangolin campaign and find out how you can help below.
Story 2 https://africageographic.com/stories/impala/
ELEGANT IMPALA
Impalas are one of the most common yet remarkable antelope species. We celebrate these doe-eyed safari stalwarts
Desert & Delta – 11 days/10 nights – from US$5,295pps
This iconic safari is about water – or the lack thereof. This safari ranges from the majestic Victoria Falls to the watery wilderness of the Okavango Delta, from the predator-rich northern Botswana floodplains, to the remote Central Kalahari and desolate salt pans.
Special offer: Stay 4, pay 3 at Duba Plains Camp
Duba Plains Camp lies in the heart of the Okavango Delta in a matrix of palm-dotted islands, floodplains and woodland. Book 4 nights and only pay for 3! Valid 1 November to 19 December 2023.
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Let’s talk (briefly) about testicles. In particular, their position in relation to the rest of the body. Those among you that are a) in possession of testicles and b) have ever suffered some kind of trauma to that general vicinity should be able to attest to the fact that their placement makes them vulnerable. And a cursory glance at a galloping buffalo bull should be sufficient to convince you that life could be worse.
Why would nature have designed things so? Thermoregulation, right? We were all taught that the testes hang outside the body to keep them cool for sperm production. But did you know that the reason for external testicles is actually contested in the study of evolutionary sciences? Because we don’t know what came first – cooler testicles or the requirement thereof. And there are plenty of exceptions to the rule. Elephants and rhinos have internal testicles without significant reproductive challenges and, perhaps more appealingly, without wandering around with an additional exposed appendage.
Temperature control aside, there are several competing theories to explain external testes, including a “training” hypothesis, a “galloping” hypothesis and, somewhat entertainingly, a “display” hypothesis. You can read more about the subject here.
PANGOLIN PUP!
Another pangolin pair has been saved by Provet Animal Hospital. A Temminck’s ground pangolin was recently confiscated from the illegal wildlife trade in the Northern Cape. On inspection, local vets discovered she was clutching and protecting her little newborn pup, still wrapped in afterbirth. In extreme trauma situations, pangolins often deliver pups early. She was found with a head wound inflicted by poachers who had attempted to pry her curled body open using a spade.
The pair were then airlifted to Provet for treatment and rehabilitation. Unfortunately, the mother had no milk to offer her pup. The little male had already lost 30g since his initial weigh-in and had extremely low blood sugar levels. Dr Debbie English and her team made the tough decision to separate the mother and pup to give them the best chance of survival.
PLEASE NOTE ALL PANGOLINS ARE HOUSED OFF-SITE AT A SECURE LOCATION FOR SECURITY PURPOSES
WATCH: Go behind the scenes of one of the largest ever animal translocation projects in the world. Watch how African Parks and partners embarked on a project to reinvigorate the elephant population of Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve (4:34). Click here to watch
TRAVEL DESK: 
WATCH: Akagera National Park, Rwanda, is home to Central Africa’s largest protected wetland, consisting of a complex system of lakes linked by papyrus-lined swamps. In the remote north of the park, you will find Karenge Bush Camp, perched on a ridge overlooking the wildlife-rich Kilala Plains below. Karenge is an off-the-grid getaway for safari enthusiasts seeking privacy and solitude. (06:31) Click here to watch
Considering Busanga Plains for your next African safari? Check out 
*Cover image: Mark, the 40-year-old leader of the Nyakagezi gorilla family, enjoys some alone time in the dense bamboo forest of Mgahinga. For more images from Michael Stavrakakis, check out 
There are two species of African elephant – the savannah elephant (Loxodonta africana) and the forest elephant (Loxodonta cyclotis). As the names imply, the two generally occupy distinct habitats and are theoretically 
Deep in the heart of the fynbos of South Africa lives a rare orchid, Disa forficaria, which has a fascinating relationship with its pollinator, the longhorn beetle, Chorothyse hessei. From the title of this article, one might think it should come with a PG rating but rest assured – this is simply nature at work in her strange and wonderful ways. The story of how the relationship between Disa forficaria and the longhorn beetle was discovered is fascinating in itself.
The Kavango-Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area has released the 2022 KAZA Elephant Survey results, revealing with cautious optimism that elephant populations within the region are stable.
