Managing elephants in South Africa’s protected areas is one of conservation’s most persistent dilemmas. Elephants are a keystone species that shape ecosystems – opening landscapes, dispersing seeds, and maintaining biodiversity. But some studies identify elephants as the main drivers of large-tree loss in African savannahs, especially when their populations go unchecked. A new study on Kruger elephants explores how the opinions and strategies of managers, landowners, and tourists differ on managing elephant impacts, from culling to contraception and protecting large trees.
In the reserves of the Associated Private Nature Reserves (APNR), which form part of the Greater Kruger ecosystem and share an open boundary with Kruger National Park, elephant numbers have increased sharply – from about 500 in 1993 to between 2,000 and 3,000 today. At the same time, large trees have declined, especially in areas dense with artificial waterholes. This trend has created concern among reserve managers, landowners, and tourism operators, all of whom depend on a balance between elephants, vegetation, and visitor experience.
A study published in the European Journal of Wildlife Research by Cook, Witkowski, and Henley (2025) explores how the insights and opinions of conservation managers, landowners, tourists, and guides differ on elephant management – from culling and contraception to closing waterholes. It reveals a clash of ethics, economics, and ecology that shapes how Africa balances its giants and trees – and challenges one-size-fits-all conservation thinking.
The legacy of Kruger elephants
Between 1967 and 1994, more than 14,000 elephants were culled in Kruger National Park to maintain a population “carrying capacity”. That policy ended under international pressure, allowing numbers to increase rapidly to more than 30,000 today.
The removal of fences between Kruger and the APNR in 1993 allowed elephants to roam freely into the private reserves. However, because these reserves maintain a much higher density of artificial waterholes than Kruger – roughly 2.5 per km² versus Kruger’s 0.1 per km² – elephants spend more time concentrated in smaller areas. The result: persistent browsing and bark-stripping that kill large, old trees, some of which are crucial for nesting birds, shade, and tourism value. However, elephant feeding is not purely destructive. By dispersing seeds in their dung and opening up dense vegetation, elephants promote plant diversity and maintain grassland habitats. Still, because elephants favour certain tree species and sizes, sustained browsing can remove specific tree types or height classes from an area, affecting other species that depend on large trees for nesting.
This situation, often called “the elephant problem,” forces managers to weigh ecological science against ethical and economic considerations.
An elephant browses beneath ancient baobabs in Kruger – shaping the landscape
The study
Researchers surveyed 170 stakeholders in the APNR – including conservation managers, property owners, tourism staff, and visitors – to gauge support for four strategies to reduce elephant impacts on trees: waterhole closures, to disperse elephants naturally; tree protection, such as wire-netting or beehive deterrents; contraception, to limit population growth, and culling, to reduce numbers directly.
Respondents rated these approaches using a five-point scale and were invited to comment on their reasoning. The analysis examined how age, experience, gender, and stakeholder role influenced views on each option.
Shared concern, divided solutions
Almost all respondents agreed that elephants and large trees are both valuable. 97% said elephants contribute to tourism, and 96% supported protecting large trees on both ecological and aesthetic grounds.
However, while most acknowledged that elephants damage trees, fewer believed there are “too many elephants.” Many saw tree loss as a natural ecological process rather than a crisis. This tension – between recognising ecological impact and resisting population control – runs throughout the study.
Elephants gather at a Kruger waterhole
Managing Kruger elephants: what people support
Waterhole closure received the strongest support overall (59%), especially among younger conservation managers, who viewed it as a natural and ecologically sound approach. They argued that reducing artificial water availability would restore seasonal movement patterns and relieve localised pressure on trees.
Tourism operators were less convinced, worrying that closing waterholes could reduce wildlife sightings and, by extension, visitor satisfaction. The economic risk of “fewer elephants to see” weighed heavily against perceived ecological benefits.
Tree protection methods, such as wire-netting or beehives, were popular with property owners and tourists (77% support). They were seen as practical and non-lethal, as they protect iconic trees while maintaining tourism appeal. But respondents also commented on limitations: these methods are labour-intensive, costly, and unrealistic at scale. Participants observed that “it’s not realistic to protect every tree this way”. This highlights the gap between local success and landscape-wide impact.
Non-lethal options like contraception aim to reduce long-term pressure on landscapes
Contraception divided opinion sharply (43% support). Tourists were generally in favour, seeing it as humane and consistent with modern conservation ethics. Long-term stakeholders, particularly older landowners and conservation managers, were more sceptical. They questioned whether large-scale contraceptive programmes are feasible in the wild, citing cost, logistics, and uncertainty about social effects on elephant herds.
Culling was the most contentious option. Just over half of respondents (51%) agreed it would reduce tree damage, but culling also brought strong ethical opposition. This was especially true among tourists. Older respondents in the study were more likely to support culling, recalling its past effectiveness. Conservation managers viewed it as a pragmatic, if undesirable, tool for population control. Others rejected it outright as incompatible with modern conservation values and harmful to South Africa’s tourism image.
The study found clear demographic divides. Age and experience mattered. For example, those over 50, who had lived through the culling era, were more supportive of lethal control. Younger respondents preferred adaptive, non-lethal management – reflecting a shift towards “compassionate conservation,” which emphasises welfare as well as ecology.
Gender also played a role in stakeholder opinions: men were more likely to support culling than women. Tourism stakeholders tended to prioritise visitor experience, while conservation managers focused on ecological function.
The study showed many conservation managers were in favour of waterhole closures. Property owners favoured non-lethal options like tree protection and contraception. Tourists clustered almost entirely around non-lethal preferences.
Feeding on branches in Kruger
A values-based approach to managing Kruger elephants
The study concludes that there is no single “correct” strategy for managing elephants and trees. Instead, management should be adaptive and values-based – combining scientific monitoring with social acceptability.
While ecological data can identify when intervention is needed (for example, when tree loss exceeds thresholds), stakeholder values determine which interventions are socially sustainable. In the APNR, this might mean a mix of localised tree protection, selective waterhole management, and population control through contraception, with lethal measures considered only as a last resort.
The study also highlights the importance of communication and education. Misunderstandings about the feasibility of contraception, or the ecological outcomes of waterhole closures, suggest a need for ongoing dialogue between managers, landowners, and visitors.
The study offers a framework for balancing science and human values, aiming for coexistence between elephants, trees, and people
The broader lesson
Elephant management is often portrayed as a technical problem, but this research shows it is equally a social one. Decisions about waterholes, contraception, or culling are shaped by ethics, economics, and experience as much as by ecology.
By documenting these perspectives, the authors provide a framework for balancing scientific objectives with human values – a critical step in ensuring long-term coexistence between elephants, large trees, and the people invested in both.
Research shows that wire-netting can be used to significantly increase tree survival by reducing elephant impact on large trees. Check out the study on this net win here
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
She said yes! One of our guests just got engaged while on safari in the intoxicating forests of Congo-Brazzaville – sending my team into raptures.
The privately shared video taken by him as he dropped to his knee and fumbled his words had me hanging on with bated breath, and her reaction was priceless. Dropping her water bottle with a loud clunk, she stammered her acceptance …
That they were on the elevated wooden platform of their tented suite in Odzala-Kokoua National Park at the time made the moment even more special. How epic to share that special moment in such a remote location, with that gorgeous forest backdrop? And, after several sightings of western lowland gorillas, forest elephants and forest buffalo!
One of the group had this to say when I asked for her favourite moment:
“Hard to choose, it was such a great trip! My favourites: The spotted hyena with its kill on the road that surprised us when driving to Moba. Hearing chimpanzees at Moba Beach‘s mirador while having a freshly made omelette and potato pancake… it felt very luxurious at this beautifully remote place. The baby gorilla taking cover in its mum‘s arms during the rain. Sunbirds and crocodiles. The rain forest hikes, boat trips and the swim in the Lokoue River.”
Meanwhile, we are crafting our portfolio of Bush & Beach safari ideas for 2026 – anybody fancy some toes-in-the-sand time to wash off the dust of your bushveld safari? While you are there, put aside precious time to search for whale sharks, manta rays and dugongs.
The charismatic lemur’s home – Madagascar’s dry forests – are also home to baobabs, rare birds and many other unique lemurs. But they are vanishing under the weight of farming, fires, logging, and hunger-driven bushmeat hunting. The Ankoatsifaka Initiative for Dry Forests, a coalition of NGOs, scientists, and government voices, are determined to flip the script. By rallying behind the sifaka, they aim to boost patrols, support communities, and safeguard a landscape vital for both people and wildlife. The sifaka’s role as a seed disperser makes it a builder of forests and futures. If the “dancing lemur” can capture global imagination, Madagascar’s dry forests might just step into the spotlight where they belong – bringing much needed awareness to their plight.
This week, we bring you a visual feast and a fight for the future: 10 years of Remembering Wildlife photography, and Tacaguma Chimpanzee Sanctuary’s frontline battle to save chimps in Sierra Leone.
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We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
WILDLIFE PHOTOS
Discover 10 years of Remembering Wildlife: world-class photography driving conservation and protecting endangered species
SAVING CHIMPS
Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary leads Sierra Leone’s fight for chimp conservation – an inspiring story shaping the future
Expect to be romanced, seduced and awed by three prime locations and effortless luxury. This exquisitely crafted 11-day luxury journey through Southern Africa combines the vibrant culture and scenic beauty of Cape Town and its renowned Winelands, with the unparalleled Big Five safari experience of the Greater Kruger and the iconic Victoria Falls – The Smoke That Thunders.
This iconic safari combines the wildlife riches of Khwai in the eastern reaches of the Okavango Delta, and Chobe National Park in Botswana, with the awe-inspiring majesty of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. First, you’ll visit Khwai to get your predator fix, then move on to Chobe to witness massive herds of elephants and other wildlife along the banks of the Chobe River. Last but not least, the grand finale: witnessing the mighty Zambezi River plunging into the misty gorges below at iconic Victoria Falls.
Has a long-lost leopard been spotted? The leopard known as the “Lion Pan male” was once a familiar sight in Kapama Game Reserve in Limpopo, South Africa. But he mysteriously vanished in April 2024. For more than a year, his fate was unknown.
But the Ingwe Research Program, which is on a mission to save the leopards of Hoedspruit, has just confirmed his presence in Makalali Game Reserve. This, after they received new images from Siyafunda (a wildlife conservation and community development organisation in Makalali). Ingwe’s researchers used AI to sift through the more than 14,000 photos in minutes, and were able to confirm the sighting. The Lion Pan male had resurfaced, an astonishing 57km away from his original home range – the longest recorded dispersal in the program’s history.
This milestone highlights both the power of AI and the reach of the Ingwe network, which now includes over 45 partner lodges and reserves working together to monitor and conserve leopard populations. Each data point expands our understanding of leopard ecology, survival, and movement across fragmented landscapes.
You can support Ingwe’s work by joining our Spots on the Line campaign, and help to secure a future for Africa’s most elusive big cats.
WATCH – AFRICAN SAFARI INSPIRATION:
In honour of the life and work of the late, great Jane Goodall: See how the zoologist, primatologist and chimpanzee expert’s passion for wildlife and unshakable drive have persevered and set an example for future generations. (01:28:49) Click here to watch
In the quiet predawn light of Timbavati, a Temminck’s pangolin slowly unfurls from its rolled-up armour. Across ecosystems, photographers have documented encounters like these: desert lions rediscovering ancient hunting skills on Namibia’s Skeleton Coast; a litter of 17 African wild dog pups emerging from the den for the first time in the Kruger. Each image tells a story of survival, resilience, and the unseen battles faced by wildlife.
Marking a decade of conservation through the eyes of the world’s finest wildlife photographers, the latest edition in the Remembering Wildlife series, 10 Years of Remembering Wildlife, shines a light on species most in need of protection. From elephants to pangolins, this 10th volume celebrates not just extraordinary wildlife photography but a global commitment to safeguarding animals and their habitats.
The images are more than art – they are urgent messages from the natural world. Mountain gorillas in Bwindi display playful defiance against the odds. A photographer tracks an endangered pangolin as it forages in the undergrowth. Elephants traverse drought-stricken landscapes in Amboseli, searching for life-giving waters. Through these encounters, Remembering Wildlife reveals both the fragility and tenacity of life.
The series is the vision of photographer and conservation champion Margot Raggett, whose determination to speak for animals has united some of the world’s best photographers and conservationists. What began with a single book, Remembering Elephants in 2016, has grown into a series of ten, including Remembering Rhinos (2017), Great Apes (2018), Lions (2019), Cheetahs (2020), African Wild Dogs (2021), Bears (2022), Leopards (2023), and Tigers (2024). To date, the series has sold over 55,000 books, raising more than £1.26 million (US$1.58 million) for 80 conservation projects in 34 countries across the world.
This year’s edition is the largest yet, including 200 pages and featuring images from renowned names in wildlife photography such as James Gifford, Tristan Dicks (who captured the cover photo), and Jonathan & Angela Scott, who also contributed the foreword. The book is divided into two sections: a retrospective of iconic images from past volumes, and a new section showcasing the world’s most trafficked mammal, the pangolin. Among these are 20 images selected through a global competition, offering rare insight into a creature most people will never encounter. All profits from the book support pangolin conservation.
Pangolins have roamed the Earth for 80 million years, yet over the past decade, more than a million have been removed from the wild, primarily for scales used in traditional medicine and meat as a delicacy, mostly in Asia. They also face habitat loss and electrocution, as their instinct to curl into a ball can prove fatal against electric fences. Margot Raggett explains:
“Pangolins are fascinating and endearing creatures, closely related to mongooses and cats, each with its own character. The scale of the illegal trade is likely higher than we realise, but there are dedicated conservationists, researchers, vets, and volunteers working tirelessly to protect them. This book supports those efforts.”
Collaboration lies at the heart of Remembering Wildlife. Many projects funded by the series are proposed by photographers themselves, and all work closely with local NGOs, researchers, and communities. Beyond protecting animals, these initiatives educate and empower people to safeguard wildlife for the next generation.
Want to see magnificent wildlife on an African safari? Search for your perfect safari here. Or let us build one just for you. We donate a portion of every safari sold to selected conservation efforts at ground level.
As the series reaches its 10-year milestone, its legacy is visible not just in books but on the ground: safer landscapes, empowered communities, and wildlife given a fighting chance. Margot reflects:
“The project has grown far beyond what I imagined when I started. The community it has created, the momentum for conservation – it’s humbling and a true privilege. This book reminds us of what could be lost if we don’t act and supports those on the frontlines protecting our planet’s wildlife.”
10 Years of Remembering Wildlife is a call to action, a testament to resilience, and a tribute to the species that cannot speak for themselves.
Below, enjoy a selection of photos from 10 Years of Remembering Wildlife:
Photographer Pedro Amaral says: “This photo was taken on January 1, 2022, in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – an unforgettable way to begin the year. A solo trip, long delayed by the pandemic, turned into a leap of faith: three days, three gorilla treks. That morning, rangers offered me the chance to visit a distant gorilla family alone, which meant a longer, more demanding hike. I didn’t hesitate. For a full hour, I observed the group in silence, captivated by the young gorillas and their playful energy. Their carefree behaviour reflects a larger conservation success: mountain gorillas are the only great ape whose numbers are increasing.” Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, UgandaPhotographer Griet Van Maderen says: “I was drawn to desert lions after meeting Philip Stander from the Desert Lion Conservation Project, who introduced me to their incredible story. These lions, uniquely adapted to survive Namibia’s harsh Skeleton Coast, are among the rarest in the world, with only about 70 left. Philip’s dedication inspired me to follow their journey, witnessing their resilience firsthand. Over the years, I observed their evolving hunting behaviour – how Alpha, the mother, rediscovered seal hunting and passed it to her daughter, Gamma. Capturing this rare moment on the beach was not just about photography but about documenting their survival and raising awareness.” Skeleton Coast, NamibiaPhotographer James Gifford says: “Instead of focusing on the negative aspects of rhino poaching, I wanted to convey a sense of hope – a new beginning almost – as if these were the first rhinos being forged in a fire of creation. Shooting into the sun, the effect of the backlit dust created a blurred shadow image, adding to the ethereal atmosphere. Botswana’s multi-decade rhino relocation project had been one of the continent’s success stories until the Covid outbreak, when the lack of tourists and watchful eyes precipitated a sharp spike in poaching incidents, which drastically reduced overall population numbers.” Central Kalahari Game Reserve, BotswanaPhotographer Lance van de Vyver says: “In this rare and powerful scene, a pride of lions stumbled upon a wild pangolin – an armoured survivor of Africa’s nocturnal world. Mistaking it for a plaything, the lions spent 14 relentless hours toying with the rolled-up creature, unable to penetrate its tough scales. Although the pangolin was unharmed by the lions’ teeth or claws, a testament to its incredible natural defences, sadly it did eventually succumb to heat and stress.” Tswalu Kalahari Reserve, South AfricaPhotographer Morkel Erasmus says: “We were fortunate to be the first people to see a litter of 17 painted dog pups emerge from their den for the very first time to meet the rest of the pack… it is a morning I will never forget.” Greater Kruger, South AfricaPhotographer Tom Way says: “In extreme years of drought, elephants travel from afar to seek refuge under the towering Mt Kilimanjaro, whose snowmelt gives life to the lush swamps within Amboseli National Park. Elephants travelling into the park from the northwest have to cross Lake Amboseli, which is bone dry unless there are extended rains.” Amboseli National Park, KenyaPhotographer Daryl Balfour says: “These were two of three young male lions, brothers, whom we followed frequently in the Maasai Mara a number of years ago. This evening, after tracking them across the Purrungat Plains on a dark, gloomy afternoon, two of them posed perfectly atop a termite mound as the sun popped out for a brief few moments of glorious golden light at the end of the day.” Maasai Mara National Reserve, KenyaPhotographer Tom Mason says: “I created this image of a Temminck’s ground pangolin whilst working in Namibia with the Africat Foundation, at their reserve in Okonjima. The reserve provides a safe haven for pangolins, with the foundation monitoring and tracking individuals to understand more about their movements and behaviour. Working closely with the researchers, I joined them on multiple nights to walk with the pangolins as they foraged on the reserve through the early hours. It’s with great thanks to the team at Africat who made this possible. To create this image, I worked with a slow shutter speed and a very small amount of rear-sync flash, to show the movement of this wonderful species as it moved through the undergrowth, following alongside with the research team to get myself positioned ahead of the pangolins’ movements.” Okonjima Nature Reserve, NamibiaPhotographer Nelis Wolmarans says: “The image is of the late mountain gorilla silverback named Munyinya. He was the dominant silverback of the Hirwa family, and the image was taken in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park. Munyinya originated from the Susa family. After several skirmishes with the dominant silverback of the Susa family, Kurira, he left to start his own family in 2006. Munyinya died in February 2020 from a respiratory illness, although he had also suffered a lightning strike in February 2020 that killed other members of his group. Munyinya’s death was followed by his group’s leader, Uburanga, taking over the leadership of the Hirwa family.” Volcanoes National Park, RwandaPhotographer Torie Hilley says: “One very early morning, we found African wild dogs on the road, and they looked like they had just woken up to start their movement. We pulled to the side and got out of the car (in Mana Pools, you are allowed to be on foot) to photograph the dogs coming towards us. They didn’t disappoint. We gave them their space, but they chose to approach and then passed us very calmly and casually. It was an incredible moment to capture the pack coming straight at me. A moment I will never forget.” Mana Pools National Park, ZimbabwePhotographer Chad Cocking says: “A light at the end of a dark tunnel. During lockdown, with no tourists around, I came upon this pangolin early one winter’s morning. I waited patiently for it to unfurl itself, but when it did and realised I was not a threat, it slowly got up and walked off into the bush… not a bad way to start the day!” Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, South AfricaPhotographer Shem Compion says: “The scent of rain is even detectable for us humans. For elephants, it’s a driving force and also a guiding one. In Amboseli, after months of drought, elephants are lured by good rainfall.” Amboseli National Park, Kenya
About10 Years of Remembering Wildlife
10 Years of Remembering Wildlife is the 10th book in the celebrated Remembering Wildlife fundraising series, which has raised more than £1.2 million GBP (€1.55 million USD) for conservation projects since it began in 2016.
The aim of the creators is to make the most beautiful book ever seen on the particular species they cover. These books, in turn, raise awareness of the plight facing the species featured, and funds to protect it. Each book is full of images generously donated by many of the world’s top wildlife photographers, with 94 contributing this year. All profits from the sale of this book will be donated to projects working to protect pangolins in the wild. Read more and order the book here: www.rememberingwildlife.com
Check out more epic wildlife photography galleries here:
Scott Ramsay’s Spirit of Africa explores the continent’s essence through powerful images, moving stories & a call to protect her wilderness. Check out his gallery here
Stunning high-definition camera trap images reveal Nouabalé-Ndoki’s hidden creatures, including golden cat, leopard and palm civet. Check out these epic photos here
High in the misty hills above Freetown, the Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary has become a beacon of hope for Sierra Leone’s most iconic species. Here, 123 rescued western chimpanzees live in safety, their stories a testament to both the brutality of human exploitation and the extraordinary power of compassion. Tacugama is more than a refuge – it is a symbol of resilience, a rallying point for conservation, and a glimpse into the future of chimpanzee tourism in Africa.
It was still early as I wound my way up the narrow, forest-lined road into the hills above Freetown, Sierra Leone’s capital city. The city’s bustle faded behind me, replaced by the hum of cicadas and the faint sound of water – perhaps a small stream or a distant waterfall. Then, just as the mist began to lift from the canopy, I heard it, a chorus of whoops and pant-hoots rising from the trees. I had arrived at Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary, home to 123 rescued western chimpanzees.
From the viewing platform near the nursery, I watched as young chimps swung between ropes, wrestled in the grass, and sprawled in the morning sun. It was a scene of energy and playfulness, but also of survival. Every chimp here carries a story of loss, and every one of these lives is a testament to the work being done, by some very committed individuals, in this small corner of Sierra Leone.
Playful antics masking stories of survival and resilience
Chimpanzees – a species under threat
Sierra Leone’s forests are disappearing at an alarming rate. Since 2000, the country has lost an estimated 35% of its forest cover, and in some areas, more than 80% has gone. These forests are home to the critically endangered western chimpanzee, a subspecies found in only a handful of West African countries.
In the 1970s, there were an estimated 20,000 chimpanzees in Sierra Leone. By 2008, only 5,500 remained. Some had lost out to agriculture, logging, and the development of roads and infrastructure. Others had fallen victim to the bushmeat trade or been trafficked as illegal pets, usually in appalling conditions.
Each rescued chimp embodies the wider struggle of Sierra Leone’s dwindling wild populations – and their future hope
The beginning of Tacugama
In 1988, Bala and Sharmila Amarasekaran were travelling through the Sierra Leonean countryside, 250km from Freetown, when they saw an emaciated young chimpanzee tied to a tree. “The first moment he looked at us and hugged us, we knew we couldn’t leave him there. We knew if we left this little guy behind, he would die,” Bala recalls. They paid $20 for him, took him home, and named him Bruno.
What they thought was a single rescue quickly becomes something more. One rescued chimp soon became seven, all of whom were housed in a makeshift shelter in their Freetown garden. In dire need of space, Bala and Sharmila begin lobbying for land to build a proper sanctuary. After six years of persistence, they were finally granted 40 hectares in Sierra Leone’s Western Area Peninsula National Park, a narrow chain of hills and pristine rainforest in the heart of the Freetown peninsula. In 1995, Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary was born.
Healing begins here: chimps scarred by snares and trauma find safety within Tacugama
Building a chimpanzee refuge
As news of Tacugama spread, more chimps began arriving, some surrendered voluntarily, others confiscated under Sierra Leone’s Wildlife Conservation Act. Many bore the scars of their past: missing hands from snares, deep lacerations from abuse, or a fearful mistrust of humans after being torn from their mothers. Tacugama became a haven for them all, providing them with a second chance at life.
Within two years, the sanctuary had 24 chimpanzees, all of whom had been rescued from desperate situations. Bala and his team continue working through the challenges of building facilities in the forest, all the while navigating the country’s political instability. Over the coming years, they would steer Tacugama through Sierra Leone’s 11-year civil war, military coups, the Ebola crisis, and the Covid-19 pandemic; never ceasing in their efforts to rescue and protect chimpanzees.
A baby chimp delights in play with bubbles: an enrichment activity used to stimulate curiosity and development
A national symbol
Renowned primatologist and zoologist Jane Goodall visited Tacugama in 2006, lending her global influence to raising the sanctuary’s profile and championing its conservation work. Her support helped inspire a movement that, after years of advocacy by Tacugama, finally led, in 2019, to the chimpanzee being officially declared Sierra Leone’s national animal and the new face of the country’s tourism.
It was a celebratory moment for Tacugama. “This was great for us,” says Aram Kazandjian, Tacugama’s development manager. “The government prioritised chimp protection. Being the national animal meant it was prohibited to kill, sell, eat, or keep them at home.” But as Bala tells me, this was not the end of the battle. It was the start of a new challenge: turning symbolic protection into lasting change. “It took us 25 years to get them declared the national animal,” he says. “But now it’s about taking pride in that and seeing how we can carry this legacy forward and protect the species”.
In Tacugama’s clinic, a caregiver cradles three youngsters – from those orphaned to those born in the sanctuary, each are now held in safety
Beyond the sanctuary
While Tacugama provides lifelong care for over 123 chimpanzees, its mission extends far beyond the sanctuary’s fences. Through the Tacugama Community Outreach Program (TCOP), the organisation works in seven of Sierra Leone’s districts, promoting sustainable land use, discouraging hunting, encouraging coexistence between people and wildlife, and most importantly, fostering a national conversation about conservation – all initiatives designed to help protect wild chimpanzees, so that more don’t end up at the sanctuary.
Programmes involve practical measures, such as planting cash crops like cocoa, coffee, and cashews in buffer zones, to provide income for communities, while reducing pressure on forests. In addition, education programmes in local schools and villages aim to instil pride in protecting chimpanzees and their habitats.
But getting local communities to buy into chimpanzee protection takes patience. For people struggling to feed their families and send their children to school, conservation is often a luxury they can’t afford.
From forgotten victims to national icons, the chimps embody a country’s evolving identity
Precious, Little Prince, and the cost of survival
Despite these efforts, the need for rescues continues. In the nursery, Precious, a female estimated to be less than two years old, was found after poachers killed her family. She carries a pellet lodged in her chest, likely from a stray bullet aimed at her mother.
Another youngster, Little Prince, arrived after being kept by a Freetown social media influencer. Before that, he’d been found clinging to his dead mother’s body, which was caught in a hunter’s trap.
These two youngsters are fortunate to have found a home at Tacugama, but their lives will never be as free and wild as they should be. Since 1995, Tacugama has rescued and rehabilitated more than 200 western chimpanzees. These sad stories are a stark reminder of what Bala calls “the grim equation”: for every chimpanzee that reaches the sanctuary, eight to ten will have died in the wild – the 123 chimps currently at Tacugama may well represent the death of at least 1,000 others.
A rescued youngster undergoes a careful health check – vital care that gives Tacugama’s chimps a second chance at life
Present crisis: A sanctuary closed in protest
In May 2025, Tacugama made international headlines by closing its gates to tourists in protest at unchecked deforestation and land grabbing in the sanctuary’s buffer zone.
Tacugama occupies land that was once “community forest” – land that could be used freely by anyone under traditional laws. However, in 2012, the land on which the sanctuary is situated, along with a surrounding buffer zone, was designated a national park. This status prohibits private land development. Despite this, illegal construction and logging continued, eroding the sanctuary’s buffer zone and encroaching dangerously close to its boundaries. “Within the national park boundaries, you will find a range of both completed and incomplete structures – from permanent residences to commercial outlets and entertainment facilities like bars. Many of the buildings are still under construction, but a significant amount of land clearance has already taken place,” says Sidikie Bayoh, Tacugama’s communications officer.
Sierra Leone’s weak rule of law, combined with its population growth and the demands of a burgeoning metropolis, is gnawing at Tacugama’s edges. Attacks in the form of arson, illegal construction, vandalism and threats, all steadily intensified until there was no choice but to close the sanctuary, until law and order could be restored. As Bala puts it, “It’s really threatening the sanctuary’s existence… because it’s too dangerous when people come close to a wildlife preserve like this.”
Sanctuary under siege: encroaching construction threatens the chimps’ last refuge
Government response and future outlook
After months of petitioning, Bala has finally gained some traction, even meeting with the country’s president, Julius Maada Wonie Bio. “The president was furious when he saw the pictures I showed him,” Bala says, “But the real issue here is that there are already policies in place, the government already creates departments to address this. There are already people being paid with taxpayers’ money to prevent land encroachment… They should be ashamed. I shouldn’t have to go to the president for something like this,” he continues, shaking his head in despair.
While Sierra Leonean authorities have acknowledged the problem, there is frustration at the slow pace of enforcement. The government launched a crackdown, installing boundary markers, engaging local communities, and conducting raids on illegal logging operations. But follow-up was lacking, and the loggers and other trespassers returned.
Tacugama’s closure is not silence – it’s a cry for help to save both forest and species
Why Tacugama matters, NOW
Tacugama is more than a refuge; it’s a bellwether. As one of West Africa’s most established chimpanzee sanctuaries, it has become a symbol of Sierra Leone’s potential for wildlife protection, ecotourism, and national pride.
Sanctuaries like Tacugama are the frontline of triage, rescuing victims of the pet trade and snares, rehabilitating the rehabilitatable, and keeping the conservation crisis visible. Their education, policy advocacy and community programmes reduce the flow of orphaned chimps and safeguard the forests that wild populations depend on.
Many travellers come to Africa with dreams of trekking through forests to see chimpanzees in the wild. But those same forests are shrinking fast, and the chimpanzees that depend on them face mounting threats from poaching, trafficking, the pet trade, and habitat loss. This is why chimp conservation, and awareness of their plight, matters so deeply to anyone passionate about primates. Sanctuaries like Tacugama play a critical role in rescuing victims, educating the public, and fighting for stronger protection of both species and forest. The fact that Tacugama’s own buffer zone is under threat from encroachment, even within a protected national park, is a stark reminder of how urgent this fight has become
Tacugama’s closure is not an act of defiance, but a desperate appeal. Its fate rests with those willing to protect its forests and defend the ideals on which it was created. For now, the sanctuary remains quiet – home to chimps, but empty of visitors – still fighting for survival, and for the hope of opening its doors again.
Eyes that tell a story: a rescued chimp stares out, a reminder of what’s at stake
What can you do for chimpanzees?
For safari enthusiasts, supporting chimp conservation isn’t only about where you can trek for chimps today; it’s about ensuring there will still be chimps to meet tomorrow. You can make a tangible difference by backing organisations that defend habitat, curb trafficking and invest in community livelihoods—work that reduces the very pressures creating sanctuary orphans. When you do book chimp trekking elsewhere in Africa, choose operators that follow strict primate-welfare protocols (limited group sizes, minimum viewing distances, no contact or feeding, health screening/masking where required) and that direct fees into conservation and community benefit. Ethical choices upstream translate into fewer rescues downstream. Consider pairing any future trekking plans with a contribution to sanctuary and landscape protection funds. The most meaningful chimp encounter is the one your choices help make possible.
A mother chimp gently cradles her infant, a glimpse of tenderness in the sanctuary’s forest
A story of hope
In a country often internationally associated with its hardships, Tacugama is a symbol of resilience for both people and wildlife. The image of Bruno, the first rescued chimpanzee, now appears on the national passport, a reminder of how far the sanctuary has come since that day in 1988.
And while the challenges remain immense, Tacugama has shown that determined, sustained action can make a difference. For nearly three decades, its small but dedicated team has been working to ensure that Sierra Leone’s chimpanzees have a future.
As Bala puts it: “We can’t save every chimpanzee, but we can change the story for this species in Sierra Leone. And that’s worth everything.”
Further reading
How DRC’s endangered chimpanzees end up in a billionaire’s Indian zoo: Controversy erupts over wild chimpanzees trafficked from DRC to India’s Vantara Zoo using suspect CITES permits. NGOs demand global action. Read more here.
Boozy chimps + Great Migration debate + wild dog hotspots
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From our editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
It turns out that our primate ancestors enjoyed cheeky tipples long before humans raised their first glass. New research has found that wild chimpanzees in Côte d’Ivoire and Uganda consume the alcohol equivalent of a daily bottle of lager: from eating naturally fermented fruit.
This finding fuels the so-called “drunken monkey” hypothesis: that our own fondness for a sundowner may be an inherited taste from primate ancestors who learned that overripe figs and plums pack both sugar and spirit. But the chimps aren’t getting drunk. The alcohol levels, while measurable, aren’t enough to impair survival or cause hangovers. Instead, scientists suggest the behaviour strengthens social bonds as the chimps gather to enjoy the fallen fruit.
So next time you sip a cold one, raise it to the original foragers. And if you’d like to see these fruit-ferment aficionados for yourself, join us on an Africa Geographic chimp-trekking safari – where the encounters are intoxicating, but the drinks are strictly from a bottle.
This week, safari guide Adam Bannister tackles the Great Migration debate – beyond the river crossings to the survival of East Africa’s golden goose – and we spotlight Africa’s six best wild dog hotspots for your next safari
Taryn van Jaarsveld – Editor, Africa Geographic
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
GREAT MIGRATION DEBATE
The Great Migration is more than river crossings. Adam Bannister talks overtourism’s risks & calls for ethical, conservation-first safaris
WILD DOG SAFARIS
Longing to see African wild dogs? Here are the six best spots to see painted wolves in Africa – perfect for your next safari with us
The perfect bush and beach trifecta. A classic Tanzanian bush and beach safari that immerses you in iconic locations with time-honoured luxury camps. This is an unforgettable 10-day sojourn that blends the untamed beauty of Tanzania’s northern safari circuit with the tranquil allure of its pristine beaches. You’ll journey through Tarangire National Park to the awe-inspiring panoramas of the Ngorongoro Crater, the sweeping plains of Serengeti National Park, and the sun-kissed shores of Zanzibar.
3 countries & 3 iconic parks in one safari! Experience the thrill of the wild with a luxury safari that takes you from the heart of Timbavati in Greater Kruger to majestic Victoria Falls and the breathtaking Chobe Riverfront. Drift along the Chobe River as hundreds of elephants drink and play nearby, and watch a leopard mother and her cubs in total serenity
AG safari guests, Teresa and Joan from Ireland, went on a dream South Africa trip to Madikwe and Cape Town:
“Magical trip to South Africa. What a fabulous time we had in South Africa, booked seamlessly through Ro and Linda at Africa Geographic.
Our trip was to Madikwe Game Reserve, where we stayed for 3 nights. The lodge was very welcoming – beautiful place to stay within the park – and the food was so varied and delicious. The game drives exceeded our expectations… we had many close-up views of the animals. A shout out to our safari guide Ashley, who shared all his knowledge of the animals (and he was a really polite gentleman). And of course, to Heidi, the lodge manager, who had a lovely birthday cake for me on my 60th birthday.
Our internal flights to get to Cape Town ran very smoothly, and we were then picked up punctually and stayed at the Queen Victoria Hotel in Cape Town for 3 nights. What a lovely place! We visited all the ‘to-do’ sites there, including Table Mountain, Boulders Beach and Robben Island. A big thank you to Lloyd, whom we booked for a day to drive us around, through AG. All in all, a fabulous itinerary made to our liking. Thank you, AG: I would highly recommend them. Teresa and Joan.🐾🌍x”
Planning an African safari can be overwhelming – but it doesn’t have to be. Wildlife photographer Andrew Macdonald shares what makes an Africa Geographic safari truly extraordinary. (03:26) Click here to watch
A sighting of African painted wolves (wild dogs) is one of the most exhilarating safari experiences and a guaranteed highlight for guests. From their frenetic hunts to playful pack time, these lithe and athletic predators present true poetry in motion. But, unfortunately, they are also one of Africa’s most endangered carnivores.
Looking for the best place to see them in the wild? Here’s a list of our top six favourite wild dog destinations:
The wild dogs of Mana Pools National Park rose to prominence as the star characters in the BBC series, Dynasties. Yet, for those in the know, the national park and surrounds have long been recognised as one of the best places in Africa to see these charismatic canids.
What makes Mana a particularly fabulous destination for viewing painted wolves is that it offers walking safaris aplenty. Regular encounters have ensured that the painted wolves are unusually comfortable with people on foot. It is important to remember that this is a privilege, not a right, and the African painted wolves should be treated with absolute respect. Keep noise to a minimum, set up a comfortable distance and enjoy the magic of this truly unique experience.
Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park also hosts a large wild dog population. Hwange ranks among Africa’s premier strongholds for painted wolves, with an estimated 200 individuals spread across more than 30 packs. The sheer scale of the park and its diverse habitats provide excellent conditions for these wide-ranging predators, making sightings a rewarding possibility for patient safari-goers. Adding depth to the experience, the Painted Dog Conservation Centre on Hwange’s fringes offers visitors the chance to learn about one of the continent’s longest-running wild dog protection initiatives, from rehabilitation to groundbreaking research.
The low-angle photographic opportunities in Mana Pools, Zimbabwe, are difficult to rival
2. Northern Botswana
Most of Northern Botswana, including Khwai Private Reserve, Chobe National Park, and the Okavango Delta, is prime habitat for wild dogs and a vital population stronghold for these carnivores. The combined landscape of protected areas provides these ever-moving hunters with the space they need. As the river systems ebb and flow, painted wolves charge across the flood plains to chase down their abundant prey. Read more about our CEO, Simon Espley’s, incredible experience searching for wild dog pups in Okavango Delta here – “my best wild dog sightings ever”.
A pack photographed in Khwai Private Reserve, northern Botswana
3. Madikwe Game Reserve, South Africa
Since their translocation to Madikwe Game Reserve in 1994, African painted wolves have become the unofficial mascot of this arid, malaria-free reserve tucked away in northern South Africa, close to the Botswana border. Though their path to success has not always been easy, the wolves are now well established, and the sparse Madikwe vegetation makes it easier to keep an eye on their antics.
The frenzy after the hunt in Madikwe Game Reserve
4. West and Central Zambia
Home to the largest painted wolf population in Zambia, Luangwa Valley (including both South Luangwa National Park and North Luangwa National Park) stands out as a conservation success story where these tie-dyed predators are concerned. During the dry season, Luangwa’s multitudinous herbivores gather around the life-giving Luangwa River and painted wolves take full advantage of the buffet on offer. The floodplains set the stage for thrilling displays of athleticism as the energetic canids hurtle after antelope or reaffirm their pack bonds with a game of tag and tumble.
Beyond the Luangwa, Zambia offers two more compelling destinations for painted wolf enthusiasts. In Kafue National Park, wild dogs are staging a quiet comeback, with three packs now thriving since the original pair was introduced – a testament to the dedicated work of the Zambian Carnivore Program. Sightings here are still a matter of good fortune, but each encounter carries the thrill of witnessing a population in recovery. Further west, the vast grasslands of Liuwa Plain now host a reintroduced pack, roaming alongside the park’s famed hyenas and cheetahs. Lions were once absent from Liuwa but have since begun to return, though not yet in full force – a dynamic that has created space for painted wolves to re-establish themselves in this remarkable ecosystem.
A wild dog on the banks of the Luangwa River above a colony of carmine bee-eaters
5. Greater Kruger, South Africa
Bucking the overall population trend, the Kruger’s painted-wolf population is not declining and may even be steadily increasing. In Kruger National Park, use the sighting boards in camp and chat to park guides to get up-to-date information on recent reliable hotspots. Alternatively, a stay at one of the private reserves and lodges in Greater Kruger during the denning season (typically winter: June until August) will ensure unbeatable sightings of the pups emerging to take in their new world, much to the joy of the rest of the pack.
Feeling playful in Kruger National Park
6. Laikipia, Kenya
Known for its exclusive safari experiences and exceptional record for protecting endangered species, vast Laikipia county is almost entirely covered by private and community conservancies, creating a large habitat for painted wolves to roam.
The Kenyan conservancy model gives its visitors glorious freedom, allowing any visit to be tailored to specific interests. Want to tag along with a research team tasked with monitoring the painted wolves? Though not always a guaranteed option, Laikipia is an excellent place to start.
Never a dull moment
Given their fast-paced lives, keeping up with painted wolves can present something of a challenge, but the reward is well worth the effort involved. With their boundless vitality, astonishing altruism and unmistakable wet-dog smell (with a tinge of something vaguely goat-like), there is never a dull moment when African painted wolves come bounding by.
Resources
New DNA analysis reveals surprising prey in African wild dog diets, reshaping our understanding and informing vital conservation strategies. Read more about the surprising secrets of African wild dog diets here
Tsavo’s African wild dogs face major threats. Tsavo Trust & Painted Wolf Foundation are working to save these painted dogs. Here’s how they are doing it
The Great Wildebeest Migration is one of the most extraordinary wildlife events on Earth: over a million wildebeest, accompanied by zebra and gazelle, moving in a continuous cycle between the Serengeti and the Maasai Mara. It is a story of survival and renewal, of predators shadowing prey, of grasslands being grazed and replenished. It is about the balance of an ecosystem that has shaped life in East Africa for centuries.
And yet, in the way we market and consume it today, the migration is often reduced to a single spectacle: wildebeest river crossings. If we are not careful, we risk treating this natural marvel as a one-off attraction rather than a fragile, living system – and in doing so, we could kill the golden goose that has nourished both wildlife and communities for years.
How the media changed the story
For decades, visitors celebrated the scale of the migration itself: the sound of hooves rolling across the plains, the dust clouds on the horizon, the predators waiting patiently at the edges. The wonder lay in the abundance – in witnessing one of the last great movements of animals on Earth.
But mobile phones, cameras, and marketing campaigns changed the story. River crossings, with their plunging wildebeest and ambushing crocodiles, are cinematic. They became the easy sell for glossy brochures and television documentaries, and today for social media. Tour operators began building itineraries around them, knowing that images of wildebeest hurling themselves off cliffs were enough to persuade travellers to part with their money.
River crossings are dramatic, but the Migration is far more than this single perilous moment
The danger is that we have narrowed the migration into a single moment. Guests come to Serengeti National Park and Maasai Mara National Reserve seeking one dramatic scene, and investors build lodges to service that demand. Too often, crossings are treated as entertainment rather than as what they truly are: moments of life and death.
The economics of the Great Migration
The Migration is not just an ecological marvel – it is also an economy in itself. Tens of thousands of people depend on it for their livelihoods: from guides and drivers to camp staff, lodge owners, and communities offering spare rooms. Many people have invested their savings in safari vehicles or in building modest camps to capture some of the tourism demand. I believe we often underestimate the knock-on effect of how many families are completely dependent on tourism – especially in East Africa.
This reality makes the problem complex. On one hand, we cannot simply strip away those opportunities or pull the rug from beneath people who have invested their lives in tourism. On the other hand, the uncontrolled growth of camps and vehicles is placing enormous pressure on the phenomenon that sustains them.
There is also an uncomfortable contrast between operators. Some camps genuinely invest in conservation and community: they employ and train local people, channel funds into protection programmes, and even secure land for wildlife. Others, however, operate as little more than roadside hotels, offering beds but contributing little to the wider ecosystem. Fancy lodges with polished marketing campaigns and high-end interiors can sometimes fall into this category too – their glamour and branding may impress guests, but in reality, they are no more supportive of conservation than the simpler roadside options.
Even good management can be undermined. The Mara Triangle, for instance, has invested heavily in upgrading its infrastructure and maintaining roads. But this has drawn more and more vehicles from outside its borders, all coming to benefit from these improvements. By raising standards, the Triangle has inadvertently attracted an unsustainable burden of extra traffic.
This is the heart of the challenge: the migration has become such a vast economy that everyone wants a piece of it. That is understandable. But it is also shortsighted. If we continue to exploit it without restraint, we risk destroying the golden goose itself.
In preparing this piece, I reached out to eight local Maasai guides to hear their perspectives. All chose to speak anonymously, a decision that is telling – there is a fear of repercussions for voicing criticism. Yet each of them echoed the same sentiment: the current scale of overtourism is eroding the heart of the migration. They spoke of how the experience has been degraded, not only for wildlife but also for visitors, and how the once-proud reputation of ecotourism in the Mara is being chipped away. Their words were sobering and a reminder that those closest to the ground often see most clearly the direction in which things are heading.
Enforcement and accountability
One of the most urgent problems is the weakness of enforcement. Fines, too often, are toothless. I have witnessed guests offer to pay fines on behalf of guides – essentially encouraging them to break the rules.
The conversation goes like this:
“How much is it to drive off-road here?”
“We are not allowed.”
“Yes, but if you did, how much would they fine you?”
“10,000 Kenyan Shillings.”
Okay, great. Drive off-road, and we will pay for it if they stop us.”
I have heard this exchange on many occasions. It exposes a failure in the system. If fines are so low that they become part of the cost of doing business, they will never serve as a deterrent. What is an extra US$80 or so on top of a trip that would have cost thousands? Heavy penalties – financial AND professional – must be introduced. Guides must realise that breaking the rules is not an option.
The false Great Migration fixes
In conversations about overtourism in the Mara, a few simple “solutions” are often put forward. Raise park fees. Cap visitor numbers. Ban new developments. On the surface, these sound appealing. In practice, they are not straightforward.
Take the issue of raising park fees. Two years ago, the cost to enter the reserve rose sharply, from US$80 to US$200. We were told this would reduce numbers. It has not. Cars still crowd the crossings; the only change is that visitors now pay more, and the public knows management is collecting greater revenues.
Imagine if fees rose again, to, say, US$500 per person per day. (Keep in mind it currently costs US$1,500 for a permit to view gorillas in Rwanda for a single hour!) Lower-end lodges and camps would potentially collapse overnight. A whole tier of travellers would be priced out. Worse, conservation would risk becoming elitist. Local communities, whose support is vital to the survival of wildlife, could be locked out of landscapes they have protected for decades.
Long lines on the move: raising park fees hasn’t eased crowding. Vehicles, not visitors, drive the pressure
Even the current structure is flawed. Fees are charged per person, but the pressure at crossings comes from vehicles. A car carrying one guest takes up just as much space as a car carrying nine. The system should always have been based on vehicles, not individuals.
And what of development caps? In principle, they are desperately needed. But consider the families who have already invested in cars and modest accommodation. They cannot simply be shut down. Yet, if new camps keep sprouting unchecked, the cumulative pressure will push the Mara past the point of no return.
None of these fixes is as clean as they first appear. The problem is more complicated, and pretending otherwise risks worsening the situation.
Towards real solutions
Solution 1: Capped vehicle entry
A broad cap on vehicle numbers entering the Mara could help, but the reserve is vast. The real strain lies at bottlenecks, not across the entire landscape. A more nuanced approach is needed. The challenge is how such a carrying capacity would be determined in the first place – and whether it could be enforced fairly. The Mara’s boundaries are porous; there are no fences, and it is a poorly kept secret that vehicles have not always entered or exited through official gates. If a capped system were ever to work, it would require rigorous planning, robust monitoring, and genuine commitment to control access. There is also the real question: if the park fee was raised to US$500, US$1,000 or even higher, where would that massive increase in revenue end up?
Solution 2: Viewing platforms and hides
Another idea that surfaces regularly is to construct fixed viewing points, hides, or even grandstand-style platforms, much like those at a golf tournament. The suggestion is that vehicles would park at a distance, and visitors would then walk – perhaps even through tunnels – to these structures, where they could watch the crossings in relative order and safety.
On paper, it has some appeal. But in practice, it is fraught with problems. There are at least 20 recognised crossing points along the river, many with multiple entry and exit spots. To cover them all would require a significant number of platforms. If a crossing happened just out of sight of one, visitors would miss it entirely. The Mara River is unpredictable, its water levels rising and falling throughout the season. Any hide would need to be constructed at considerable height to avoid flooding, which would demand steel, concrete, and large-scale infrastructure.
Even if designed to be discreet and aesthetically sympathetic to the landscape, such structures would still need to accommodate hundreds of people at a time. The resulting human footprint – both visual and physical – would be immense. While the concept is often put forward with good intentions, I do not believe it is a workable or desirable solution for the Mara.
Solution 3: Premium crossing permits
Another proposal is to introduce a premium ticket for access to river crossings. While this might reduce congestion, it risks creating more problems than it solves. Large operators would almost certainly buy up tickets well in advance, dominating the system. A black market could emerge, with permits being sold at extortionate prices on the eve of guest arrivals. In such a scenario, little of the money would reach conservation; middlemen would pocket most.
Solution 4: Controlled crossing points
The most promising approach may be to regulate crossings directly – not by charging extra, but through careful management and oversight. Access could be granted on a first-come, first-served basis, with vehicles guided into predetermined viewing zones. Each crossing point could be mapped and assessed to determine how many cars it can sustainably handle, ensuring that every vehicle present has a fair and unobstructed view.
This simple change would remove the incentive for dangerous behaviour. At present, much of the chaos arises from the limited number of good vantage spots. Vehicles race to secure them, turning crossings into something resembling the start of a rally. By designating parking areas and controlling numbers, that tension would disappear.
Some gentle landscaping might be required – trimming long grasses, levelling sandy banks, or clearing bushes – but this is a minor and reversible impact compared to the benefit of restoring calm and order. Natural barriers such as logs, rocks, or trenches could also protect the wildebeest entry and exit points.
This is not just an idea. I submitted such a proposal to the Mara Conservancy, which in turn forwarded it to Narok County. The concept remains simple: restore order at crossings, cost visitors nothing, and demonstrate that patience and ethics can be rewarded.
These four solutions are by no means the only options. They are simply those I hear most often discussed, and the ones I have personally considered in detail. There are undoubtedly other creative and practical approaches worth exploring.
A screenshot from a proposal document that was recently sent to the Narok County suggesting how one could integrate ‘Solution Four’ with near immediate effect into the Maasai Mara.
Alongside longer-term structural solutions, there are also immediate steps that could make a significant difference. First, only accredited and registered professional guides should be allowed to conduct safaris in the Mara, ensuring a higher standard of behaviour and accountability. Second, a portion of the increased park fees should be directed towards employing and equipping far more rangers – with vehicles, cameras, and the authority to hand out substantial fines. During migration season, especially, a visible and empowered ranger presence is essential. Finally, every visitor to the Mara should be asked to sign a simple but powerful code of conduct, one that makes clear that respect for wildlife is paramount. A model exists in the Palau Pledge, where visitors to the Pacific Island nation sign a promise in their passports to act responsibly and preserve nature for future generations. Such a pledge in the Mara would help shift expectations from the moment a safari begins. In Palau, you cannot enter without signing this pledge to protect the natural environment. Shouldn’t the Mara ask the same of its visitors?
Integrating local access
Another potential step is to guarantee a capped number of places for Kenyan residents each day, at a reduced rate. This would ensure that local people remain connected to their own wildlife, while international visitors continue to provide the bulk of funding. Done properly, this could be a win-win: inclusivity without undermining financial sustainability.
A cultural reset, transparency and trust
Finally, there must be a shift in how we view wildlife. Safari is not a right, but a privilege. Crossings are not “content” to be consumed and shared; they are moments of life and death. Guests should also be encouraged to spend time with the herds away from the river, immersed in the sheer magnitude of life unfolding across the plains.
A lack of trust underpins all of this. Where does the money go? Park fees generate millions of dollars, but how much reaches conservation on the ground? How much reaches local communities? And – though this must be asked gently – how much ends up with individuals?
These questions are not accusations, but they must be addressed. Transparency would transform perceptions. If visitors knew how their fees were spent, they would be far more willing to pay, more patient with restrictions, and more supportive of conservation strategies. The same is true of lodge approvals: who decides, and why? Openness would build confidence; secrecy only fuels suspicion.
The role of guests
Guests play a crucial role. By choosing camps that actively support conservation and employ local people, they can help ensure that tourism strengthens the ecosystem rather than simply extracts from it. Camps that invest in land, training of people, and protection of wildlife deserve to be supported over those that do the bare minimum.
Guests should also set expectations with their guides early in their trip. Make it clear that tips will be based on knowledge, interpretation, and respect for nature – not on reckless driving, racing between sightings, or forcing proximity at crossings. Guides should be rewarded for their patience, knowledge, storytelling, and ethics, not for taking risks.
And here’s a radical thought – what if lodges simply paid their guides higher salaries and scrapped tipping altogether? Imagine an industry where the incentive to impress came from stable, sufficient pay and professional pride, not from the chase for the biggest end-of-trip envelope. Of course, tipping is far too deeply embedded in safari culture for this to ever happen, but it’s worth noting that the pursuit of tips is one of the root causes of the bad behaviours we see on the ground today.
Every choice a guest makes matters. The type of camp, the questions asked, the behaviour expected – all contribute to shaping the future of the Mara.
Zebra and wildebeest on the march. Guests can shape the future by choosing camps that truly support conservation
A call to act
The Great Wildebeest Migration is under pressure. In recent years, the herds have spent less and less time in the Mara – a fact that individually everyone knows, but collectively no one appears to acknowledge or talk about. Climate change plays a role, but so too do human factors: fences, frequent burning, vehicle congestion, and the sheer density of camps along migratory routes.
We cannot kill the golden goose. We must nurture it. We must accept that change is needed, even if it is uncomfortable.
The question is not whether action should be taken. It is those who will be bold enough to make the decisions. Years ago, management admitted that the Mara was at a breaking point. Since then, numbers have grown, crossings have become more chaotic, and more large camps have been built; the only meaningful change has been a US$120 hike in park fees. That is not enough.
Above it all, the solution must come from within. Outsiders like myself can advise, support, and share ideas, but for real traction, change must be led by the Maasai community – the custodians of this landscape. Their voices, leadership, and authority are essential if the Mara is to find a sustainable future.
Who will be bold enough to make the difficult decisions? What will it take before action is truly taken?
The Great Migration is a global treasure, and protecting it requires courage and honesty. It will mean facing uncomfortable truths, regulating where regulation is overdue, and choosing long-term sustainability over short-term gain. If we fail, the cost will be irreversible – for wildlife, and for the people who depend on it.
The true wonder of the Migration lies in the endless sweep of life across the plains: not just the river
Adam Bannister is a South African-trained biologist, safari guide, author and storyteller who has spent nearly two decades immersed in some of the world’s most iconic wild places, from the Sabi Sands and Maasai Mara to the deserts of Rajasthan and the forests of Rwanda and Peru. With a passion for training guides, Adam works across Africa and India to help guiding teams unlock their full potential, combining science, storytelling and presence to elevate the guest experience. His strength lies in translating complex natural phenomena into meaningful, memorable moments in the field. Read more about Adam here.
The vast Serengeti in northern Tanzania is home to an extraordinary amount of wildlife and plays host to the greatest show on Earth – the Great Migration. Read more about Serengeti National Park here
To cull or not to cull in Madikwe? + Nyungwe crimsonwing quest + Volcanoes meet gorillas
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
There is a tiny bird that has never been photographed in the wild other than when accidentally netted during biodiversity surveys.
I have been on numerous adventures to the misty highland forests it calls home to catch a glimpse of this gorgeous avian eye candy, but alas, it has evaded me SO FAR. I also co-founded an NGO that sponsored and managed two years of netting research in their prime habitat in collaboration with Uganda Wildlife Authority – also to no avail.
Shelley’s crimsonwing – Cryptospiza shelleyi – is a species of forest finch occurring in the highland forests of the Albertine Rift in East Africa. It is classified as endangered due to habitat loss and is likely to have a small, severely fragmented and declining population.
One paradisiacal location to search for this special bird is Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda. Oh, and it is also one of Africa’s best chimp trekking destinations, and hosts 13 primate and 337 bird species, including 29 Albertine Rift endemics! AND NOW African Parks has opened a new lodge deep inside this primordial forest – Munazi Lodge – the only lodge inside the national park.
Meanwhile, as I am writing this, a giraffe and her adolescent youngster are nibbling new buds on the trees at our garden fenceline, and a drongo is dive-bombing insects disturbed by these gentle giants. Life is good.
Finally, Leo Tolstoy famously stated, “One of the first conditions of happiness is that the link between man and nature shall not be broken”.
Good news is scarce in the vulture world – which makes this discovery worth celebrating. For the first time ever, conservationists have confirmed a hooded vulture nest with a chick in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. This marks the southernmost breeding site yet recorded for the critically endangered species, expanding our understanding of its range – and bringing fresh hope for the species!
The find came during aerial surveys in Zululand and adds to other small but significant wins for Africa’s vultures, including more nests of lappet-faced vultures and growth in some white-backed colonies. With threats like poisoning, power line collisions and traditional medicine hunting still pressing, every chick is a victory.
This week, we bring you news on Madikwe’s elephant dilemma, written by an expert on the matter, Roger Collinson. There are tough conservation choices ahead. We also take you on a journey into Rwanda’s iconic Volcanoes National Park, home to gorillas and grandeur.
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
TO CULL OR NOT TO CULL
Madikwe faces an elephant crisis that forces conservation discussions about culling, hunting and tourism. Expert Roger Collinson writes
VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK
Volcanoes National Park is a leading gorilla trekking destination in Africa. This volcanic landscape offers stunning scenery & biodiversity
This is the luxury safari you’ve been dreaming of. Experience the ultimate Southern African adventure. A seamless blend of cosmopolitan Cape Town, the culinary magic of Franschhoek, and the wild beauty of Botswana’s Okavango Delta.
Be prepared for the drama and the wonder of the vast open plains. Step into the wild heart of Tanzania as the Great Migration sweeps across the vast Serengeti. Encounter endless herds, prowling predators, golden savannahs and dramatic big skies on this unforgettable safari adventure.
Africa Geographic is proud to announce our newest conservation campaign: partnering with the Ingwe Research Program to protect Hoedspruit’s leopards. These secretive neighbours quietly share our landscapes, but their survival is under serious threat – seven lost their lives on local roads last year alone.
This vital project tackles the urgent issue of road fatalities and works to implement life-saving infrastructure and signage. Ingwe’s broader work also builds the most comprehensive leopard database in the region, equipping conservationists and communities with the knowledge to reduce human-wildlife conflict.
We support this campaign because it addresses one of the most pressing challenges facing leopards today: surviving in landscapes increasingly shaped by people. Together, we can change this story.
Witness an incredible 25-year journey of love, dedication, and ecological triumph. Samara, a passionate conservation undertaking in South Africa’s Great Karoo, has painstakingly rewilded 27,000 hectares of degraded land, bringing back lions, elephants, and cheetahs after over a century of absence. (06:38) Click here to watch
Sir Attenborough was, as always, spot-on in the narration of his encounter with the mountain gorillas of the Virunga Mountains. Shortly after the ad-libbed but apt summation of his emotional journey, a young gorilla called Poppy grew tired of exchanging glances and attempted to divest him of his shoes. The now-famous scene was filmed in Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda.
Today, Volcanoes National Park is renowned as one of the leading gorilla-trekking safari destinations in Africa – a place where, against so many odds, the critically endangered mountain gorilla has flourished. And while the gorillas may be the stars, visitors are equally likely to find themselves blown away by the breathtaking scenery and astonishing biodiversity of this volcanic landscape.
Volcanoes National Park and the Greater Virunga Ecosystem
Tucked in Rwanda’s north-western corner on the borders of Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo, the 160km2 (16,000 hectare) Volcanoes National Park protects the vital Rwandan portion of the Virunga Mountains. The Virunga range consists of eight major volcanoes, of which five are in Volcanoes National Park. With Uganda’s Mgahinga Gorilla National Park in the north and Virunga National Park in DRC to the west, Volcanoes National Park is part of the Greater Virunga Ecosystem. This trio of countries acts as the guardians of just over half of the world’s remaining mountain gorillas living on the forest-swathed slopes of the imposing volcanoes.
All five of the Virunga volcanoes on the Rwandan side have long since retired from spewing lava (though there are two active volcanoes in the range in neighbouring DRC), but their presence in the park is no less dramatic for their dormancy. Mounts Karisimbi, Bisoke (Visoke), Sabyinyo, Gahinga and Muhabura are the products of ferocious geological forces that shaped this section of the Albertine Rift. The resultant rich volcanic soils laid the necessary groundwork for the astonishing floral (and therefore faunal) lifeforms on display. In addition, scientists believe that much of the eastern Congo basin was an ice age refugia, which explains the unusually high number of species and levels of endemism. These refugia are geographic regions that escaped the worst of the glacial conditions, allowing for the survival of plant and animal species.
Naturally, the visual impact of the jagged mountains looming like teeth is also somewhat breathtaking, though this can be at least in part attributed to the altitude. The park’s highest point is the peak of Mount Karisimbi (4,500 metres), and most of the park lies at over 2,000 metres above sea level – not high enough to cause altitude sickness but something that certainly takes some getting used to for unacclimatised visitors.
The significant altitudinal range within the park has also contributed to considerable variation in vegetation types, changing from tropical and bamboo forest types at lower altitudes to montane forests and Afroalpine shrublands at the highest points. Thickets, grasslands, marshes, and small lakes extend between each volcano. This medley of geological and climatic factors has conferred significant biodiversity and conservation importance to Volcanoes National Park. Of course, the park’s gorilla residents (and the work of dedicated primatologists) first put it on the safari map.
The rich volcanic soils of the Rwandan Virunga volcanoes, protected in Volcanoes National Park, set the groundwork for diverse and unique floral and faunal lifeformsThe tropical and bamboo forests of Volcanoes NP are home to famous gorillas and golden monkeys, drawing tourists from across the globe
Gorillas in water droplets suspended in the atmosphere
Close encounters with gorillas like the one experienced by Sir Attenborough all those years ago are no longer permitted. Visitors are obliged to keep their distance and attempt to move away from the gorillas if approached. Wearing masks is also mandatory for trekkers, to protect the critically endangered mountain gorillas from human-borne diseases. This is an important measure taken to ensure the safety and health of the gorillas. Nevertheless, those who go gorilla trekking in Volcanoes National Park will find their encounters meet or, more frequently, exceed expectations. The strain of an early start and arduous hike (that may go on for hours along slippery, twisting mud paths through stinging nettles) rapidly evaporates when one looks into the unfathomable brown eyes of one of our closest relatives. Though few have the eloquence of David Attenborough to describe the experience, adjectives like “spiritual”, “profound”, “soul-stirring”, “humbling”, and “magical” are thrown about like confetti by those able to find them. Others find that words fail them.
Twelve gorilla families in Volcanoes National Park are habituated for tourism (other troops are habituated solely for research purposes). These are the Susa, Igisha, Karisimbi, Sabyinyo, Amahoro, Agashya, Kwitonda, Umubano, Hirwa, Bwenge, Kwisanga and Muhoza families. Only eight tracking permits are issued per group per day, so time spent with the gorillas is incredibly intimate. Furthermore, a percentage of the permit prices are fed back into surrounding communities to develop infrastructure and improve livelihoods. This culture of sustainable tourism is rapidly becoming a proud (and successful) tradition of Rwandan conservation.
For the true gorilla devotee, it is well worth visiting Kwita Izina – an annual naming ceremony for newborn gorillas modelled off a Rwandan tradition of naming children. Conservation champions are honoured with the opportunity to bestow a name upon one of the tiny bundles of primate joy, every one of which is of vital importance to the future survival of the species. Since 2005, 437 gorillas have been named in this way, and the ceremony includes live music, dancing and, of course, essential conservation talks. A well-timed visit allows additional opportunities to speak to gorilla conservationists and park staff. The ceremony usually takes place in September to coincide with World Gorilla Day.
What Dian Fossey would have thought of this ceremony will forever remain a mystery. However, no discussion of the gorillas of Volcanoes National Park would be complete without mention of the Karisoke Research Centre and her work. Though Fossey was a controversial figure, her devotion to her gorilla subjects was absolute, and she eventually gave her life to the fight for their conservation. The abandoned Karisoke Research Centre and Fossey’s final resting place remain popular attractions, though they are only accessible on foot after a relatively strenuous 90-minute hike.
Twelve gorilla families in Volcanoes National Park are habituated for tourism, though limited permits are issued per group per dayGorilla trekking in Volcanoes National Park always meets expectations
As remarkable as they are, visiting Volcanoes National Park is not just about the gorillas. In terms of the primates, few people realise that the park is also home to troops of habituated golden monkeys. These charismatic monkeys are almost as scarce as their gorilla cousins and are only found around the Virunga region. With their handsome facial mane, auburn capes of fur, and perpetually surprised expressions, the golden monkeys are the perfect photographic subjects, and their antics are endlessly entertaining.
A pair of golden monkeys share an intimate moment
The forest is also home to forest elephants. However, there are probably no more than 50 individuals wandering the park, and they are generally skittish, unwelcome as they are in the surrounding human villages. The best chance of encountering one is on the hike to the old Karisoke Research Centre. Buffaloes occasionally venture into the forests, and smaller ungulates like bushpigs, giant forest hogs, black-fronted duikers, and bushbucks flourish in the dense vegetation.
Like Nyungwe National Park in southern Rwanda, Volcanoes National Park offers some of the best birding in East Africa. High levels of endemism and the challenges of forest birding make this one of the most electrifying places to search for the feathered specials that keep eager birders awake at night. This bird-watching haven has over 200 different recorded species, including 17 Albertine Rift endemics. At the top of Mount Bisoke (more on that later), scarlet-tufted sunbirds flit from lobelia to lobelia, while further down, Shelley’s crimsonwings do their utmost to evade the avid attentions of teamAG (and pretty much everyone else). Bright scarlet flashes draw the eye to African pittas and Rwenzori turacos, and handsome francolins make up for their comparatively drab appearance with an impressively loud voice (a family trait). Rwenzori double-collared sunbirds, African green broadbills, Rwenzori batises… the list goes on. Even novice (or dare we say disinterested?) bird watchers will find the excitement infectious.
For those wanting to learn more about the bird and mammal offerings in Rwanda, Christian Boix’s (Africa Geographic travel director and one of Africa’s top birding guides) book Wild Rwanda is the region’s most authoritative “where to find” birds and mammals guide. Its Volcanoes National Park section will be an invaluable tool to set you on the right track to target your most coveted Albertine Rift endemics and learn about this volcanic gem.
Volcanoes NP has much to offer outside of gorilla trekking, including forest birdingL’Hoest’s monkeys can be seen in the park on primate trekking experiencesBuffaloes occasionally venture into the forestsA trip to the twin lakes of Burera and Ruhondo
Pathways through the mist
For those whose legs have forgiven them their trespasses (like a few hours chasing gorillas up a mountain), Volcanoes National Park is a hiker’s paradise. The truly brave can opt for an overnight route to the top of Mount Karisimbi, the highest point in the park. The name ‘Karisimbi’ translates as ‘white shell’ – so-called due to the white cap of cloud that often covers the summit. Equally challenging is the hike to the top of Mount Muhavura to look out across the twin lakes of Burera and Ruhondo (separated by an ancient lava flow). Many visitors choose to explore the almost alien-like Afroalpine vegetation and crater lake at the top of Mount Bisoke (often, but not always, in search of the red-tufted sunbird).
These hikes depend on a certain level of physical fitness, must be booked in advance, and are always conducted in the company of a park-provided guide.
Hiking volcanoes calls for moderate fitness, with endurance and leg strength to manage hours of uneven, often steep terrain at altitudeMisty mountain tops are a common sight in Volcanoes National Park
Explore & stay
The only visitors allowed in the park overnight are those who have booked multiple-day hiking excursions. However, there are many accommodation options ranging from budget hotels to ultra-luxurious lodges on the park’s periphery. The park is open year-round, though the “best time” to visit is from June until September, the long dry season. Though the highest rainfall levels occur from March to May and again in October and November, this is an equatorial region, and rain is possible at any time. And, naturally, the famous mists do more than just hide the gorillas. Consequently, it is essential to waterproof all electronics and photographic equipment, and a good pair of non-slip, waterproof walking boots are vital.
The region’s magic doesn’t end at the park boundaries, and those with an extra day or two can opt to learn more about ancient Rwanda culture at Buhanga Eco-Park. Here the kings of old undertook a series of kingship rituals before being crowned in the park’s caves. Cave systems are extensive around Volcanoes National Park, and since it was first opened in 2014, the 2km trail through the 60-million-year-old Musanze Cave has become increasingly popular.
In Rwanda – the “Land of a Thousand Hills” – the steep, forested slopes of the five in Volcanoes National Park are indisputably among the country’s most unique offerings.
Would you like to set out on a Volcanoes National Park adventure? Our safari experts will be with you every step of the way as you plan and book your safari.
The Madikwe elephant dilemma has become a lightning rod for opinion, often loud and polarised. Much of what’s been written is deeply rooted in emotion. This is not unusual: conservation stirs deep feelings. But when complex challenges are reduced to single-issue arguments, the results can be damaging. In this op ed, Roger Collinson attempts to step back from that noise and offer perspective: the kind that comes from five decades of lived experience in the spaces where conservation, tourism, and hunting overlap – sometimes neatly, often not. Collinson reflects on Madikwe’s unique and remarkable origins, the shifting dynamics, and the economic realities that must be part of the conversation.
Madikwe Game Reserve is one of South Africa’s great conservation success stories. Established in the early 1990s on exhausted cattle farms, it was envisioned not as a nostalgic return to wilderness, but as a bold experiment in land-use transformation – one designed to uplift neighbouring communities through tourism. In just three decades, it has grown into a Big Five destination of global renown, supporting more than 30 lodges, thousands of jobs, and an economy worth hundreds of millions each year to the North West Province.
But with success has come pressure. Madikwe’s elephant population, reintroduced at the reserve’s inception, has expanded from just 250 founding animals to an estimated 1,500–1,700 today. The impacts on vegetation, tourism, and neighbouring communities have become increasingly difficult to ignore. And now, the reserve stands at a crossroads: should managers reduce the herd through culling or find alternative solutions? The question has ignited fierce debate far beyond the fences of the park.
The question of elephant management at Madikwe is not a moral contest between good and evil. It is a practical, multifaceted challenge that requires a carefully considered response. It demands clear thinking, ecological insight and value judgements, not emotional slogans. We need to understand population dynamics, vegetation trends, tourism carrying capacities, and the needs of local communities. We need proper modelling of future scenarios and potential trade-offs. Most of all, we need collaboration among all relevant stakeholders, provincial authorities, reserve managers, ecologists, community representatives, and tourism operators.
Madikwe’s elephant population has reached 1,500–1,700
The urgency of these questions was underscored in June 2025, when Africa Geographic revealed that trophy hunting may soon return to Madikwe. AG reported that a North West Parks and Tourism Board tender proposed the hunting of 25 Madikwe elephants, two black rhinos and ten buffalo in Madikwe, alongside ten elephants and five buffalo in Pilanesberg. Lodge operators warned of reputational damage, and investors decried a lack of consultation. Officials, meanwhile, defended the move as a legally sound attempt to “bring balance” between ecological realities, economic imperatives and community interests.
The subsequent surge of media commentary on Madikwe’s elephant dilemma has been disheartening. What’s being presented, whether through social platforms or traditional media, tends to reduce the issue to a false binary: “To cull, or not to cull?”
There’s no shortage of emotion, sensationalism, and often misinformation in these arguments. What is sorely lacking is context, specifically, the ecological and management realities of Madikwe itself. Reactive discourse tends to ignore complexity. Instead of engaging with the full range of ecological, social, economic, and reputational factors involved, it forces us to choose sides in a simplified, polarised argument. That’s not just unhelpful, it’s dangerous.
With five decades in conservation and tourism, I’ve learned that complex questions rarely have simple answers. I write not as someone “for” or “against” culling, but as a practitioner who has worked across both hunting and tourism. My career spans drafting South Africa’s first trophy hunting legislation in the 1970s to facilitating joint ventures between communal conservancies and professional outfitters in Namibia today. I’ve helped shape the management of reserves such as Madikwe, Pilanesberg and the !Khamab Kalahari Reserve in South Africa, and Etosha Heights in Namibia – areas that began with hunting as their economic model but later transitioned to tourism when conditions shifted. In each case, the decision was pragmatic, not ideological, based on evidence of what best served conservation and communities. These evidence-based processes were guided by the growing performance of tourism in delivering socioeconomic benefits, park revenues, and broader conservation outcomes. This included the fact that the conflict between hunting and tourism operators had reached an unmanageable state, despite zoning. That same perspective informs my views on culling in Madikwe.
My concern is this: in emotionally charged climates, decision-makers are pressured to act quickly, to be seen to “do something.” They are now stuck between a rock and a hard place, damned if they cull, and damned if they don’t. But rushed decisions made without complete understanding can cause more harm than good. What’s at stake here isn’t just the elephant population. It’s the long-term viability of Madikwe as a conservation and tourism destination. It’s the livelihoods of neighbouring communities. It’s the North West Province’s tourism economy. And it’s South Africa’s reputation for rational, evidence-based conservation on the international stage.
Yes, over Madikwe’s 30 years of existence, mistakes have been made. There has been neglect. But equally, the reserve has achieved remarkable things, economically, socially, and ecologically. There is little to be gained by finger-pointing or dwelling on the past. What matters now is how we meet today’s challenges.
What Madikwe elephant data tells us – not the hype
We’re living in an age where emotion often drowns out evidence. Nowhere is this more obvious than in some of the commentary surrounding the Madikwe elephant issue. Some organisations have warned of the exaggerated narratives causing harm. One that made me shake my head in disbelief described Madikwe at its inception as some kind of Garden of Eden and claimed it has now become “a barren wasteland struck by a nuclear bomb where vegetation has been decimated, biodiversity is collapsing, and animals are perishing due to starvation”.
Another asserted that leopards are on the verge of extinction in the reserve, apparently starving to death because there are no longer any large trees for them to hoist their prey into. The narrative continued that vultures, secretary birds, and many other species appear to be all teetering on the edge.
Vultures gathered in Madikwe
Let me be clear: Madikwe’s large trees are still standing, although their number has been reduced. Guests are still spotting leopards. And the so-called “vanishing species” are, in fact, still very much present: sightings are being reported regularly. For example, rare and endangered species, such as black rhinos, show no signs of decline (and have actually shown an increasing trend), and the populations of other large herbivores and predators have remained stable over the past six years. Yes, the elephant population did experience nutritional and drought stress, but the number that succumbed to this was 4% of the total. Unfortunate, but far from a “catastrophe”. Thus, the media’s hyperbole that carcasses are strewn throughout the reserve is somewhat exaggerated. These mortalities were predominantly in the juvenile or older age classes, as would be expected with successive years of fire and drought-stressed systems. Nevertheless, it should serve as a wake-up call: elephant numbers may now be reaching a level that could lead to repeat events if wise heads don’t intervene with balanced, well-informed solutions that avoid collapsing the tourism economy.
What bothers me most, though, is when these opinion pieces misuse the language of science to lend weight to emotional arguments. One widely repeated claim is that the carrying capacity for elephants in Madikwe is 250. Well, I know exactly where that number came from: it came from me. Certainly not from science in the way the term is being misused now. When elephants were first introduced into Madikwe in the early 1990s, I suggested a starting figure of 300. In the end, only 250 were brought in. That number wasn’t an ecological ceiling; it was a precautionary starting point. My recommendation was always that this founding population should be allowed to grow naturally, with the proviso that changes in vegetation and broader ecological indicators be closely monitored over time. That is the essence of adaptive management. You don’t fix a number in stone; you respond to what the ecosystem is telling you, over years, not weeks. This has been my conservative approach to reintroducing wildlife species, including large predators and herbivores, to the many rewilding projects I have been involved with over the past 50 years.
Unfortunately, that advice was not heeded, and the elephant population has continued to grow, despite concerns being raised along the way. As a result, we now face a set of very difficult decisions around the question: to cull, or not to cull? Or perhaps more importantly, if to cull, then how should this be approached both strategically and technically?
The idea of a fixed “carrying capacity” comes from an outdated view of nature that assumed ecological balance was static. It is, however, not. Today, we understand that ecosystems operate more like a pendulum than a set of scales.
There is no doubt that, based on vegetation monitoring results, fixed-point photos, and Google Earth imagery, the growth of the elephant population (from 250 to an estimated 1,500–1,700 over 30 years) has had a marked impact on the structure and composition of vegetation – especially with the reduction of large tree species. But this doesn’t necessarily mean Madikwe’s ecosystem is ruined or that the original vegetation state from 30 years ago is ideal for our objectives. This is discussed in more depth in the sections below.
The founding objectives of Madikwe
Madikwe’s founding objectives were distinct from those of most Southern African reserves. Based on a comparative land-use study, the creation of a Big Five reserve was identified as the most effective strategy for driving socioeconomic upliftment in a region marked by poverty, drought, and underdevelopment. Unlike reserves focused on ecological restoration, Madikwe was established primarily to benefit the surrounding Barokologadi community (also known as the ba Ga Maotwa and Bahurutshe communities) through tourism.
The goal was never to recreate a “natural” or “pristine” landscape; such concepts are no longer widely accepted by contemporary conservation professionals. This is because most ecosystems are never held in a static state and instead are shaped by ongoing environmental changes and, more recently, human influences. Such terms are subjective and fall outside the realm of scientific management.
Thus, the reserve, essentially reclaimed cattle land, was by no means a Garden of Eden at the time of its founding, and to maintain a “pristine” state was, by default, never one of its objectives.
Thus, against this background, assessing vegetation change over time is a complex task. The desired state of Madikwe’s vegetation cannot be determined solely within the realm of science. The founding objectives, centred on tourism-driven development, must remain a significant consideration, which in turn requires careful value judgments around tourism, socioeconomics, biodiversity, and sustainability. This does not mean that biodiversity considerations are entirely ignored. Instead, the conservation of rare and endangered species, such as the black rhino, cheetah, wild dog, and vultures, receives special conservation attention.
Conservation of endangered species such as the cheetah is a priority in Madikwe
In short, the idea that Madikwe has crossed some hard limit at 250 elephants is biologically unsound.
The desired state of Madikwe vegetation – historical vs future facing
Determining the desired state of the vegetation is the starting point of decision-making in this case. But this process also involves many subjective elements and value judgments, given the land use and landscape changes that have taken place in this area in the past 200 years.
Historical accounts from the 1800s describe Madikwe as an open woodland teeming with wildlife, including elephants, rhinos, and lions, amid sparse human settlement. Explorers like Holub and Cummings noted lush vegetation and grassy glades, though some, like Cornwallis Harris, recorded droughts where soil was bare of grass and “dust bowl” conditions. Frequent fires and elephant activity likely maintained this openness in high-rainfall years.
By the late 1800s, elephants and other large game had been hunted to extinction. The region was subdivided into farms, and by the early 1900s, as Herman Charles Bosman observed, degradation had set in due to overgrazing, bush clearing, drought, and fire exclusion. This worsened in the 1970s and 1980s under Bophuthatswana’s grazing leases.
A study, undertaken over 10 years in the 1970s, 30 years before the founding of Madikwe in 1993, recorded a steady thickening of the woody vegetation. At the time of the reserve’s founding, before Madikwe elephants were reintroduced, I clearly remember the north-east quarter was characterised by dense bush and eroded soils – mainly Sekelbos (Dichrostachys cinerea). This state is what I observed again when I visited Madikwe in December 2024, at the end of the drought. This negates claims in recent articles that this is a symptom of the unrestricted growth of the elephant population.
Madikwe elephants take a dip in the water, mid rainy season
Thus, against this background, deciding on the desired vegetation state for Madikwe is a complex task, but it is fundamental to resolving the dilemma “to cull or not to cull?” This is laden with value judgments and cannot be determined solely within the realm of science. The founding objectives – centred on tourism-driven development – must remain a significant consideration, which in turn requires careful judgments around tourism, socioeconomics, biodiversity, and sustainability. Furthermore, the objectives cannot simply be amended to suit current narratives or agendas.
From the above written accounts of the landscape and land use, this has changed considerably over the past 200 years, with a reduction of open grasslands and an invasion of woody plants. But after the introduction of the elephant, there has been a marked reduction in large trees and at the same time, thickening up of the bush. There is a tendency amongst some conservationists (and those that have joined the debate by proxy) to hold the notion that the first written descriptions of the landscape, or at minimum, the land neighbouring Madikwe, which is free of elephants, are what should be regarded as the “pristine” or “ideal” state for the reserve.
The reserve was by no means in a “pristine” condition when it was founded, and maintaining a “pristine” state was, by default, never one of its objectives. In any case, what is a pristine or benchmark state? Is it the state that early explorers and hunters encountered when exploring the area, as recorded in a vegetation survey undertaken some 30 years before Madikwe was established, or when the reserve was established? Given that it is beyond the realm of science to answer these questions, the only sensible way to address them is to refer back to the stated objectives and strategies of the reserve upon which it was founded and consider the trade-offs that should be made. For example, suppose a less wooded vegetation state enhances tourism and hence socioeconomic benefits: In that case, it may be expedient for value judgment-based decisions involving tradeoffs between socioeconomic objectives and biodiversity considerations
Madikwe elephant population management – logistics and ethics
Only once an agreement is reached on the “desired vegetation state” can advisors and decision makers apply their minds to the future management of the elephant population and a sequence of other questions that will follow. First and foremost, there is the fundamental question of whether or not a reduction of the elephant population is required to achieve a desired vegetation state. If the answer to this is a definitive “yes”, then what method should be used: lethal or non-lethal? How many Madikwe elephants should be removed, over what time frame, and with what consideration for age and sex ratios? Just as crucially, how will this be done in a way that minimises the negative impact on tourism and thus on the socioeconomic effects on neighbouring Bakgalagadi and Bahurutshe communities and the broader economy and reputation of the North West Province?
Based on the many opinions I have encountered over the past two years, the recommended population reduction may be as high as 1,000 elephants, or perhaps even more. It is clearly impossible to achieve this in a single operation or calendar year. Any reduction would need to be phased over several years, with contraception applied in combination with lethal or translocation methods.
Indeed, as far back as the late 1990s, it was recommended that elephant contraception be used as a management tool. This option was revisited on at least two further occasions, yet unfortunately, no follow-up action was taken. The result is that the population has now grown too large for immunocontraception alone to be an effective management tool.
An elephant family gathers at a Madikwe waterhole
With regard to contraception, a statement from the Confederation of Hunting Associations of South Africa (CHASA), titled Parliamentary oversight has a chance to do the right thing still claimed that elephant immunocontraception is highly controversial, posing “considerable risks to both individual elephants and the population as a whole”. Notably, this advocacy statement from CHASA fails to mention the numerous peer-reviewed publications and successful outcomes of contraception programs currently implemented in 50 reserves over the past thirty years.
When recommending a combination of management approaches, I never envisaged that the population would grow to the present estimate of 1,500 or more. Unfortunately, that advice was either not heeded or not fully understood. As a consequence, the elephant population has continued to increase despite concerns being raised over time. Although there are many opinions that the elephant population, together with the entire Madikwe ecosystem, has already gone over the cliff, this has not yet happened. In my opinion, it could be claimed to be teetering on the edge. It is thus critical to make calm and wise decisions to rescue it from the impending abyss – in whose depths we may find the collapse of Madikwe tourism as well as the local socioeconomic situation.
Tourism versus trophy hunting in Madikwe
Currently, 31 tourism lodges operate within Madikwe, along with three community-based lodges located just outside the reserve – but directly linked to its tourism value chain. Together, they offer around 740 beds. This is perhaps one of the highest densities of tourist beds per hectare in South Africa. The combined annual direct economic contribution of these operations to the local economy is conservatively estimated at between R500 million and R700 million. This figure includes payroll, operational costs, VAT, direct taxation, and ongoing lodge refurbishments and expansions.
To give just one example: preliminary socioeconomic data indicate that Madikwe has created approximately 1,000 direct jobs for people from neighbouring communities, with a combined annual take-home payroll of R100 million. That’s real income supporting real families at the household level.
In contrast, while annual income from trophy hunting has not yet been precisely calculated, early estimates based on proposed quotas suggest it would be significantly lower than the revenue and more sustainable job creation generated by tourism – even if hunting were to be allowed inside the reserve. Furthermore, there is a misconception that the price listed for a trophy is the revenue that will go directly to the North West Parks and Tourism Board or the neighbouring communities. What seems to be misunderstood is that a significant portion of this fee goes to the professional hunter to cover their considerable operating cost. Thus, only a portion of the prices listed on brochures is actually received by the North West Parks and Tourism Board. In an ideal world, much of this revenue would be allocated to managing Madikwe instead of paying head office salaries and other costs. The same should apply to concession fees paid by tourist lodge operations.
Above all, any intervention must avoid undermining Madikwe’s tourism appeal: It is tourism, not controversy, that sustains both the reserve and the livelihoods it supports.
Preserving Madikwe’s tourism appeal is paramount
When the recent tender was released to the hunting fraternity, inviting them to apply for hunting rights in the Madikwe and Pilanesberg areas, Madikwe’s quotas were listed as 25 elephants, two black rhinos, and several buffalo. This caused considerable controversy, and as a result, the North West Parks and Tourism Board temporarily withdrew Pilanesberg and Madikwe from the tender invitation. Consultation processes are planned over the coming months before any final decision on trophy hunting in Pilanesberg and Madikwe is made.
What must be clearly understood is that trophy hunting of 25 elephants is not a solution to the “cull or not to cull” dilemma, or indeed, to reduce population levels. On the contrary, allowing trophy hunting in Madikwe carries extremely high risks and is likely to have a far more damaging impact on tourism and the reserve’s socioeconomic benefits. To put it bluntly: to hunt in Madikwe is to gamble away many hundreds of millions in tourism revenue for only a few million in return from trophy hunting. Notwithstanding this financial consideration, if the quota of the 25 trophy-hunted elephants mentioned for Madikwe is confined to adult bulls, alarm bells should be ringing as to how disruptive this may be to the social behaviour of the entire Madikwe elephant population. Experience elsewhere demonstrates that this disruption may pose a danger to tourists visiting the reserve.
Poorly planned hunting could disrupt the social behaviour of the entire Madikwe elephant population
In view of the above, if the notion of trophy hunting in Madikwe comes back on the table it needs to be backed by a thorough plan on a range of logistical consideration and how it can be carried out with most importantly quotas, hunting lodges, zonation between hunting and tourism activities, a Code of Conduct, strict rules and, most importantly, a cost benefit analysis of tourism versus hunting. This cost-benefit analysis is the essential starting point of any tourism versus hunting discussion/debate.
While concerned and effective groups have hailed the recently appointed provincial elephant management task team, there are also others less optimistic about the efficacy, transparency and selective inclusion of this task team. Of most significant concern is the lack of feedback to the public and slow progress of this task team; and many are comparing it to the many never-ending Commissions of Inquiry that South Africa has seen. Given the urgency of resolving the current elephant dilemma, it is disappointing that the team is still at the “talk shop“ level and nowhere near providing recommendations and operational procedures for implementation. At this rate, it would seem that decisions and implementations may not be done before the next drought arrives. There are also concerns that specific expertise is not represented in the task team panel. These include, most notably, animal welfare organisations, economists, veterinarians, and individuals with longstanding and successful experience in elephant contraception endeavours.
Final thoughts on the Madikwe elephant dilemma
If interventions such as contraception or even culling had been implemented when first proposed in the late 1990s, the situation today would likely look very different – especially considering that elephant populations can double every 10 to 15 years. A plan was presented, but it appears that the North West Parks did not act on it. Had action been taken then, the reserve would have saved millions in management costs. Instead, the problem has compounded, and any response now – whether culling, contraception, or relocation – will come at a far greater price.
The logistical challenges are immense. Removing a thousand elephants from a 50,000-hectare reserve is not a straightforward task. Even without tourists, the practicalities, how to move them, how to dispose of carcasses, are daunting. Attempting it in one year is impossible; even two years would likely be insufficient. Phased removal is essential, and without concurrent contraception, births will continue, keeping the gap between birth rate and offtake stubbornly wide.
The economic implications are equally stark. The opportunity cost is enormous: not just the direct cost of a mass cull, but what is lost in tourism revenue, jobs, and reputational damage over decades. Hunting, for example, might generate perhaps R100 million, but little of that reaches the reserve itself. Tourism, by contrast, brings in close to a R1 billion annually, sustaining livelihoods and communities. To gamble that steady income against short-term, limited gains is, in practical terms, reckless.
Even with careful phasing, reducing the population at this scale may be impossible without significant disruption. Lodges may need to close temporarily or even permanently. Tourism could be halted. The consequences ripple far beyond economics: herd dynamics would be thrown into chaos, and the broader ecosystem would be destabilised.
Tourism brings in close to R1 billion to Madikwe annually
That being said, culling may now be the only realistic option, but it will demand extraordinary planning. Only a clever, meticulously conceived plan could reduce Madikwe’s elephants without simultaneously collapsing tourism. Otherwise, the reserve faces the classic dilemma: damned if they do, risking tourism, jobs, and reputation; damned if they don’t, risking uncontrolled elephant growth and ecological degradation.
This is the result of decades of inaction and neglect. It is not an easy choice, and it is not one to be taken lightly. It will be interesting to see the imminent report by the Madikwe elephant task team and what its purpose is.
Considering the range of issues involved – briefly outlined here but examined in more depth in my full report – the matter still requires a stronger team of experts to provide decision-makers with practical solutions.
Roger Collinson has worked at the intersection of conservation and tourism for more than 50 years. He began his career with the Natal Parks Board in the 1970s and 1980s, where he helped draft South Africa’s first trophy hunting legislation and was later named South African Conservationist of the Year by PHASA.
With over three decades of experience in research, protected area planning, management, and development, Collinson has worked across South Africa, Botswana, Zambia, Namibia, Madagascar, and Lesotho. He has served as both a hands-on manager and a technical advisor to governments, NGOs, and private sector organisations in wildlife conservation, tourism, and community-based natural resource management (CBNRM). As Director and Executive Chairman of Bop Parks (the National Parks Board of Bophuthatswana – now North West Parks and Tourism Board), he oversaw the development of Pilanesberg National Park and Madikwe Game Reserve – both recognised with national and international awards. His academic background includes a B.Sc. in Zoology and Entomology, a B.Sc. Honours in Entomology, and an M.Sc. from the Institute of Natural Resources, University of Natal. Over his career, Collinson has played a key role in planning and managing various reserves. Today, he works in Namibia, facilitating joint ventures between communal conservancies and professional hunting outfitters, often navigating the transition between hunting and tourism. His experience informs his balanced perspective on complex issues such as culling, trophy hunting, and land-use decisions.
Further reading
Trophy hunting to return to Madikwe & Pilanesberg? AG broke the news that hunting may return to Madikwe & Pilanesberg, targeting elephant & buffalo in both parks, & rhino in Madikwe – per a tender from the North West Parks and Tourism Board
Madikwe Game Reserve is a malaria-free safari haven and conservation success story that benefits people, wildlife and the ecosystem
Are sustainable safaris real? + Victoria Falls + wild Madagascar
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
You asked, and we listened! It is now easy and intuitive to discover our crafted safari ideas to spark the imagination and start planning your next experiential safari with us. Click or tap here to see what’s on offer and refine your selection using the filters on the left. Rather than hijacking this precious time with you, I have made a video of the discovery process that you can watch below my editorial.
On another topic, thanks for all the feedback and comments on social media and in our app about the complex issues we cover via our conservation publishing. Thanks also for understanding, respecting and supporting us in our journey towards being the coolest safari company in the world, where truth and responsibility are as important as having a superb safari holiday!
Meanwhile, bushveld temperatures are spiralling upwards as we transition into summer and hope for good early rains. Wahlberg’s eagles are back from their wanderings, fat geckos have reappeared under every wall-light fitting, mozzies irritate at night, and tall knobthorn trees are replacing their scented white blooms with vibrant green crowns. Life is good.
Discover wild Madagascar on this connoisseur safari that takes you deep into Madagascar’s remote corners, where rare wildlife and rich local culture await. Explore the Ifotaka Community Forest with the Antandroy tribe and search for Verreaux’s sifaka and white-footed sportive lemurs. Then head northwest to Namoroka’s surreal tsingy landscapes, home to 10 lemur species, flying foxes, tenrecs, fossa, and the elusive aye-aye.
A luxury safari in Zambia, where comfort meets extraordinary wildlife encounters in Lower Zambezi and South Luangwa National Parks – two of the country’s top safari destinations. Indulge in bespoke service, breathtaking landscapes, and intimate wildlife experiences, all while enjoying seamless luxury and discreet, attentive hospitality. This safari is an unforgettable journey and the ultimate safari escape.
Good news from Zambia: leopards and wild dogs are thriving in Kafue National Park. Where do the baby sea turtles of the western Indian Ocean go after their frantic dash into the surf? For decades, scientists called it the “lost years”: when hatchlings vanish into the sea and reappear on the beaches where they were born years later, with no clues to where they’ve been.
Thanks to a new computer model, we may now have answers. Researchers “released” thousands of virtual hatchlings into digital currents of the Mozambique Channel to predict where they go. The results? The model suggests that green turtles cruise up East Africa, hawksbills island-hop near the equator, while loggerheads and leatherbacks loop around southern Africa. If we know where young turtles travel, we know where they’re most at risk, and where conservation efforts should focus. Protecting nesting beaches is only half the battle. The real challenge is safeguarding their watery highways across the high seas.
This week, we bring you a fresh look at sustainable safaris – and take you to Victoria Falls, where thundering mist meets magic, and unforgettable safari romance. Check these out below!
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
SUSTAINABLE SAFARIS
Victoria Falls is the world’s largest waterfall: a breathtaking African safari destination of myth, magic & romance
VICTORIA FALLS
Victoria Falls is the world’s largest waterfall: a breathtaking African safari destination of myth, magic & romance
African safari: Our safari guests say…
AG safari guests, Steve and Anne from the UK, went on a dream Southern Africa trip to Victoria Falls, Khwai and the Garden Route:
Southern Africa Trip of a Lifetime – ”Ben from AG made this trip to Southern Africa seamless and fantastic. This was my wife’s turn at a ‘trip of a lifetime’ and AG delivered. All the transfers and hotels were fantastic and allowed us the freedom along the Garden Route to get to the places we wanted to go. We needed the expertise of southern African safari experts for this, and Ben delivered.”
Soil is vital for plant growth, supports biodiversity, filters water, and keeps ecosystems balanced. But in Kenya, worsening droughts have left the soil damaged and dry, threatening both nature and local communities. But one surprisingly simple method being implemented by the Maasai community is transforming barren lands into thriving ecosystems. (10:13) Click here to watch
The rivers of Africa are her lifeblood. Streams trickle down the mountains and gradually unite to form some of the most spectacular and biodiverse waterways, carving gorges across the continent. Nothing, not even geography, can hold them back as they tumble off cliffs and through dramatic ravines. As the largest waterfall in the world, Victoria Falls needs little introduction.
Even to the uninitiated, the name conjures images of breathtaking vistas, verdant vegetation, thrill-seeking and water thundering down into gorges, releasing spray that can often be seen kilometres away. The falls are also officially known as Mosi-oa-Tunya or “The Smoke That Thunders” in the Lozi language of the area – a name that perfectly captures the almost mystical atmosphere of this World Heritage Site. Victoria Falls is a place of myth, magic, and romance.
The world-famous Victoria Falls marks the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe, where the mighty Zambezi River gathers its strength and tumbles off a fractured basalt plateau into a series of dramatic gorges 100 metres below. Though not the tallest waterfall (on land, this title is held by Angel Falls in Venezuela), at an impressive width of 1,708 meters, the Victoria Falls creates the single largest continuous falling curtain of water in the world. At the height of the rainy season, five hundred million cubic meters of water hurtle over the edge every minute, sending up clouds of rainbow spray. From there, the river is forced through a narrow and twisting path between walls of steep rock – a churning tumble of Grade V rapids ideal for thrill-seekers looking to test their nerve.
The mighty Zambezi River widens to plunge over the Victoria Falls. Zimbabwe is on the left bank, Zambia is on the right
Zambia lies on the northern and eastern sides of the falls (topographically slightly higher), while Zimbabwe is situated south and west. The neighbouring cities of Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwean side and Livingstone on the Zambian side are thriving tourism hubs easily accessed by road, rail or air. Upstream of the falls, the Zambezi River flows across an almost flat basalt plateau in a shallow valley teeming with wildlife and dotted with sedate luxury lodges away from the bustle of the central tourism regions. The Victoria Falls Bridge connects the two countries – a 1905 marvel of engineering that spans the Second Gorge, designed as part of Cecil Rhodes’ Cape to Cairo Railway vision.
The mighty Zambezi River
Zimbabwe or Zambia?
For those new to Victoria Falls, the first question is usually where to stay – the Zimbabwean or the Zambian side? Fortunately, crossing over to either side is a relatively painless process that requires a simple visa purchase and can be easily accomplished on foot. While both sides offer spectacular views of the falls and most activities, there are subtle differences between the two towns and certain attractions that can only be accessed from one or the other side.
Victoria Falls is the smallest of the two towns and is almost entirely tourism-based, with many backpackers, cafes, lively bars, and colourful local markets. The falls are just two kilometres away. Livingstone is slightly larger and offers a more city-like feel and a better representation of authentic local life. It is situated somewhat further from the falls, but the Zambian side is known for its stunning accommodation options along the riverside.
The Falls as seen from the Zimbabwean side
Around two-thirds of Victoria Falls is situated on the Zimbabwean side, which means more viewpoints are accessible from this side. It is also slightly lower than the Zambian side, and during the dry season (see below), water still flows even if the Zambian side has dried up completely.
However, the lower water levels at the start of the dry season open up the seasonal chance to visit Livingstone Island and Devil’s Pool, which are only accessible from the Zambian side. Livingstone Island is often touted as the point at which David Livingstone first set eyes upon Victoria Falls. However, given that the island sits right on the edge of the largest waterfall in the world, one has to imagine that he had an inkling before then.
Devil’s Pool is accessible during the low-water season
Whatever the case, the island is still a historical landmark and marks the site where Livingstone reeled out a length of calico weighted with a bullet to measure the height of the falls. From there, courageous visitors can swim out to either Angel’s Armchair (June-August) or the more famous Devil’s Pool (late August-December). Here, thousands of years of erosion have excavated a deep pool, with a thick rock wall right at the edge of the falls that allows tourists to take daredevil photographs without being carried over the edge by the current. It is vital to accompany experienced tour guides to these attractions, as rigorous safety measures and an intimate knowledge of the river are essential.
A rainbow over the falls.
Adrenaline capital of the world
Devil’s Pool is just one of the many adventures on offer in Victoria Falls that have marked it as the “adrenaline capital of Africa”. The rapids below the falls are classified as Grade V and present some of the best white water rafting in the world. Adrift on inflatable rafts, armed with just a plastic oar and a lifejacket, visitors throw themselves at the river’s mercy, safe in the knowledge that expert guides are on hand to assist as necessary. Nothing is quite as humbling as experiencing the sheer power of a churning river (especially while underneath it), but the calm stretches also allow for peaceful moments of quiet appreciation of the exquisite gorge views. White water rafting is only possible at certain times of the year – depending on the rainfall. It is guaranteed during your August safari and in September, but the season may extend between June and September.
White-water rafting can be done during August and September
Suppose rafting alone is not sufficient to fill one’s adrenaline quota. In that case, there are several other anxiety-inducing options, including bungee jumping or swinging off the Victoria Falls Bridge, cable gliding/ziplining, abseiling, skydiving and microlight flights. After all that excitement, it is essential to decompress with a more sedate activity like a sunset cruise, a train trip with canapes and cocktails or even the time-honoured tradition of a High Tea in a historical setting.
Microlighting over the Falls in full mist
Seasons and water levels
The Falls are usually at their most dramatic from late February to May, when the most water tumbles into the chasm below and a curtain of spray hovers over the Falls. The flip side of this is that there is a chance that the rainbow-lit spray may partially obscure the Falls. After months of dry weather, the falls begin to reduce in size and reach their lowest levels towards the end of the year when bare rock faces are clearly visible, particularly on the Zambian side. This, too, presents different opportunities for visitors, allowing them unobscured views of the falls and the opportunity to go rafting.
At certain times of the day, the mist from the waterfall catches the light at just the right angle, creating arched rainbows. Viewed from the forest amidst clouds of butterflies and accompanied by the cries of trumpeter hornbills, the effect is like something out of a fairy tale. Possibly even more magical are the lunar rainbows, visible for three nights a month.
A Victoria Falls trip offers the perfect escape for almost every traveller, from the solo adventurer and budget-strapped student to families with children and romantic couples. There is a vast range of hospitality options, from shared accommodation in backpacking establishments to ultra-luxurious lodges on the Zambezi banks. The lively towns are filled with historical and cultural experiences.
Two small national parks protect the falls and their surroundings: the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park on the Zambian side and its twin, the Victoria Falls National Park, on the opposite side of the river. Neither are ‘Big 5’ reserves, but they are teeming with wildlife. Elephants are everywhere in Victoria Falls (and should be treated with the requisite respect and caution).
Elephants are abundant in and around Victoria FallsSpotting rhinos a hop, skip and jump away from the Falls
Visitors can spend time tracking rhinos on foot in the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. Those searching for a more traditional safari experience (and large predators) can visit the nearby Zambezi National Park in Zimbabwe or travel further afield to Hwange National Park, or Botswana’s Chobe National Park. Upstream, canoe safaris navigate between hippos and crocodiles while admiring elephants feeding on the banks and searching for the nearly 470 bird species found in the Victoria Falls region.
Comfortable shoes with sufficient traction are always good, especially for the slippery paths around viewpoints or descending into the gorge. Waterproofing for all equipment is essential, especially when water levels are high.
Dawn over Victoria Falls from a footpath on the Zimbabwean side
Epic experiences at Victoria Falls
With a smorgasbord of natural, cultural, and gastronomic delights on offer and only a few days to enjoy them, deciding how best to spend one’s time can be something of a challenge! Check out our comprehensive list of things to do at Victoria Falls here, or see a few highlights below.
Guided tours of the Falls
A guided walking tour of the Falls is one of the most rewarding ways to experience this natural wonder. Led through the rainforest by an expert, you’ll not only witness the spectacle from the best viewpoints but also gain insight into the history, geology, and ecology of the area. Guides point out birdlife, trees, and seasonal highlights that often go unnoticed, while the dense spray, at times falling like rain, adds to the exhilaration. Raincoats are provided during high-water months when the vapour rises thick and heavy.
The ‘Flight of Angels’
For a perspective that even David Livingstone could only imagine, helicopter flips, aptly called the Flight of Angels, offer panoramic aerial views. Specially designed bubble windows give passengers unobstructed vistas of the Zambezi River snaking toward the edge, the curtain of water tumbling into the Batoka Gorge, and the rainbow mist that rises hundreds of metres into the sky.
The Flight of Angels – a helicopter trip over the Falls to enjoy them in their full glory
Zambezi sunset cruises
Upstream of the falls, the Zambezi takes on a calmer, more reflective character. Sunset cruises drift between islands and sandbanks as the sky turns gold and crimson. Hippos surface with grunts, elephants wade in the shallows, and birds skim low over the water. Sundowners and snacks complete the ritual, making it one of the most relaxing ways to end a day of adrenaline.
Sunset cruise over the Falls
Cultural encounters
Beyond the natural drama, Victoria Falls offers memorable cultural experiences. The Boma Restaurant in Zimbabwe blends food with theatre, where guests dine on venison and traditional dishes while dancers, drummers, and storytellers bring local culture to life. Meanwhile, the craft markets and galleries brim with sculpture, textiles, and carvings: handmade works that carry the stories of the region’s artisans.
Enjoy the electric atmosphere while dining at The Boma
Whether you come for the thundering spray at its peak or the adrenaline of low-water adventures, Victoria Falls offers an ever-changing spectacle. Each season reveals a different face of this natural wonder, reminding travellers that no two visits are ever quite the same.
Resources
Victoria Falls is one of Africa’s most popular tourist destinations – for good reason. Here’s our ultimate Victoria Falls to-do list: Things to do in Victoria Falls
They say that tourism is one of the best ways to pay for nature conservation. But is this always the case? When planning a safari to Africa, it is essential to remember that how we travel can be just as impactful as where we travel. Safari tourism has helped protect mountain gorillas in Rwanda and Uganda, and supported endangered African penguin colonies in South Africa; however, it has also placed a strain on ecosystems when not managed properly. Overcrowding at Wildebeest Migration river crossings, proposals for large-scale lodge expansions in the Maasai Mara and Serengeti, and poorly sited developments along migration routes show how quickly a positive force can tip into harm. As Africa’s safari destinations grow in popularity, travellers are increasingly faced with a choice: will their journeys contribute to conservation and community resilience, or will they inadvertently add pressure to already fragile systems?
There is a complex balance between tourism, conservation, and overtourism. Responsible decisions by travellers, operators, and policymakers can help ensure that nature truly benefits from our presence. To safeguard Africa’s protected areas, we would do well to heed the warnings from overtourism elsewhere, learning from the missteps on other continents to better reflect on – and improve – our own approach
In Bali, Indonesia, tourism can sometimes be a liability rather than a benefit. Sixty-five percent of Bali’s freshwater supplies are funnelled to tourism. A hotel room in Bali consumes up to 800 litres of water daily, whereas the Bali residents use only 200 litres of water per person per day. The impacts of tourism also ripple into culture – residents have complained about tourists’ disrespectful treatment of spiritual ceremonies, particularly the water cleansing Melukat ceremonies. Tourists have co-opted these ceremonies as opportunities for social media content, rather than as moments of inner reflection and peace.
Moving to colder climes: Antarctica, a sensitive environment with fragile ecosystems, received more than 100,000 tourists in the 2024 tourist season. This is a system where the risk of introducing invasive plant species is high, and where vegetation can take years to recover from just a single footprint. Each tourist arrival accounts for an average of 83 tons of snow loss, as the black soot emitted by cruise ships hastens melting by absorbing sunlight. Regulating tourism is tricky because the Antarctic Treaty is the only governance entity and operates on a consultative basis. There is currently no science-based regulatory framework in place to protect the Antarctic from the increasing impacts of human activities.
Clearly, the forces driving tourism can result in negative consequences if not properly managed.
This leads us to the question: how do we manage overtourism?
It’s not as simple as ‘cutting down the number of tourists’ visiting a protected area (or scenic hotspot or natural wonder). Money plays a big role in the equation, and at first glance, more tourism means more money. For years, conservationists have been advocating for ecotourism as a sustainable financial mechanism to fund and maintain nature and protected areas, and it has, indeed, succeeded in many instances. Some examples include gorilla tourism’s contribution to the protection of mountain gorillas and their forest habitat in Rwanda and Uganda, and how ecotourism has supported the conservation of the African penguin in South Africa (Michler 2024).
Globally, tourism generated a record US$1.6 trillion in 2024, and in Africa, the travel and tourism market is projected to reach a market volume of US$35.98bn by 2030. But this could potentially lead to environmental harm. For example, in January 2024, when the Serengeti National Park reported plans to increase the number of lodges in the park by 250% and the number of permanent tented camps by 300%, the UNESCO World Heritage Site authorities threw up their hands in horror. They asked the park about the potential environmental impacts of “the increasing density of… tourism infrastructure… on the wildebeest migration”. “And the Serengeti is not alone in facing such pressures. Elsewhere in East Africa, similarly troubling developments are underway. In the Maasai Mara, plans for a Ritz-Carlton hotel to be built in an established migration pathway appear to be moving forward.
Clearly, lines need to be drawn in the sand. Who decides where to place the lines, and how do they make their choice?
Existing measures to curb tourist numbers
Governments and other authorities have imposed bans on tourists and introduced restrictive measures to protect places of significance. In the Galapagos Islands, Ecuador, tourism is regulated by rules such as walking on marked trails, guided visits to protected areas, and prohibiting private yachts at key natural sites. In Okinawa, Japan, visitor numbers to Iriomote Island are capped at 1,200 per day to protect endangered species.
In Africa, the drive to prevent overtourism is also present.
Mokoro safari in the Okavango Delta. Botswana’s high‑value, low‑volume helps prevent overcrowding in sensitive areas like the Okavango Delta
In Botswana, the National Ecotourism Strategy, launched in 2002, established a high‑value, low‑volume (HVLV) tourism model. This intentionally limits tourist numbers while encouraging higher per‑visitor spending. The goal is to minimise environmental impacts while maximising revenue for conservation and local communities. By focusing on fewer but higher‑paying visitors, Botswana avoids overcrowding in sensitive areas like the Okavango Delta, supports conservation funding, and preserves wilderness quality.
In Namibia’s Dorob National Park, situated along the country’s central coast, tourism activities are strictly regulated through zoning and permitting. Recreational uses like powered flights, commercial operations, structure-building, and wildlife disturbance (feeding, hunting, chasing, etc.) are prohibited unless with a permit from the Ministry of Environment and Tourism. Also in Namibia, Communal Wildlife Conservancies, legally recognised under the Community-Based Natural Resource Management (CBNRM) framework (since the mid-1990s), allow local communities to manage land and wildlife. Communities partner with tourism operators to offer guided tours, lodges, and safari services, while wildlife revenues fund community development projects. By distributing the economic benefits of tourism directly to communities – and giving them a stake in maintaining healthy wildlife populations – this model disperses tourism pressure more evenly across landscapes and promotes sustainable stewardship. This zoning and permitting scheme helps preserve fragile habitats, such as breeding areas for birds, and curtails reckless tourism that could damage ecosystems or lead to overtourism hotspots.
In Kenya’s Maasai Mara, park fees have increased as a means to curb overcrowding at wildlife sightings. Yet, this has not prevented chaos at some river crossings.
These measures have sometimes been implemented when the crowds have already had negative repercussions, and they require heavy regulation, which bears further costs. Is there a way to do things differently? Tourism is more than just tourists, so evidently, we need to look at the bigger picture.
What is tourism, and why does it sometimes become too much? The travel and tourist industry can be defined as “…essentially the renting out for short-term lets of other people’s environments, whether this is a coastline, a city, a mountain range, or a rainforest.” The crunch comes when the costs exceed the income, such as when costly externalities occur (for example, tourists littering the beach). When this happens, few prosper and many lose. Extending the beach-littering example, there are many cases where hotel owners happily collect accommodation revenue, but do not pay for the beach to be cleaned up, basically externalising the costs to the public purse.
Interestingly, the label of “overtourism” often comes first from the people who are being affected by the consequences, such as local communities. Therefore, to some degree, the categorisation of overtourism has been in the eye of the beholder. Not surprisingly, local communities often raise the red flag because they are recipients of the impacts, whether this is the inconvenience of their town being overrun by tourists or their parks’ vegetation being trampled flat by increasing foot traffic. The takeaway from this is that tourism needs to be done hand in hand with local people. However, the flow of tourists is also subject to broader forces beyond local stakeholders. For example, once destinations gain popularity, they tend to remain in high demand, even when they are already under pressure from overtourism, making it difficult to tip the scale toward lesser-known alternatives.
Is the concept of “tourist carrying capacity” a useful one?
There is comfort in numbers, and many have tried to pin down the ‘tourist carrying capacity’ of a place or park. Yet such calculations are often built on shaky assumptions and imprecise methods. For one thing, different carrying capacity assessments of the same area yield varying numbers, and, as Spencely (2022) notes, land does not have an inherent carrying capacity.
Carrying capacity does not take into consideration that what a park manager values from the land may differ significantly from what a resident values. Therein lies the crunch. How many tourists are too many, and when do you know that tourism impacts have crossed a threshold? When does Plant Species A’s population decline by 31,45%? When does the mayor of the town tell the residents to stay indoors to make room for the tourists? When do tourists use more water than residents do? How do you create one number that meets all of these criteria?
Tourism impact is not always directly related to numbers; it is often more linked to the behaviour and actions of tourists (Spencely 2022). Perhaps the question needs to be flipped: Will the destination use tourism or be used by it?
A systemic approach to overtourism
Instead of asking how many “too many” is, we could ask, “What are the desired conditions?” (Spenceley 2022). Overtourism management (aka crowd control) needs to encompass context, communities, visitor experience and the entire travel chain. It’s possible to turn tourism management on its head to become more proactive – by intentionally providing a suite of tourism opportunities and diversity of settings to maximise experiences, whilst minimising impact. This doesn’t sound very easy, but there are tools in the tourism toolbox that can guide this type of proactive, holistic approach. Take, for example, how the Interagency Visitors Management Council (IVMC) manages visitor use in the California State Parks in America through the use of a ‘Visitor Use Management Framework’ (VUMF). This Framework provides a planning process for the IVMC to find a way to maximise benefits for visitors while proactively preserving the environmental, social and managerial conditions that they prefer. They used the framework to develop clearly defined and transparent outcomes to be achieved and how these will be monitored. And by its very nature, a VUMF integrates the values and preferences of all the constituents (managers, travel agents, tourists, communities). These values are considered just as important to sustainability as the remediation of the biophysical impacts. In other words, there is shared commitment and accountability.
The IVMS Council needed a defensible, transparent decision-making process, and the four building blocks of the VUMF provide this. In a nutshell, the framework integrates (a) identifying desired conditions for resource, visitor experiences, and facilities, (b) understanding how visitor use influences the achievement of those goals, (c) developing and implementing strategies to manage visitor use, and (d) monitoring, evaluating, and adjusting management actions. Frameworks could be considered an ‘antidote’ to relying on the reactive strategy of using ‘tourist carrying capacity.’ Instead, the sweet spot of sustainability lies in the inclusion of all roleplayers’ needs, values and the shared responsibility of setting intentional goals and desired outcomes. The VUMF has been used by many other US parks and in many protected areas and tourist destinations around the world, including in Costa Rica, Belize, Chile, and Mexico. Other frameworks include the Visitor Impact Management (VIM), Visitor Activity Management Process (VAMP), the Limits of Acceptable Change (LAC) and the Visitor Experience and Resource Protection (VERP) (see Spencely 2022 for a review).
So, what is the tourist’s role in responsible safaris?
If you visit Africa’s beautiful nature reserves and protected areas, then you too can contribute to sustainable or responsible tourism:
You could opt to travel in green season, rather than peak season – reducing pressure on the ecosystem you are visiting.
You could take responsibility for your behaviour and decisions while travelling. For example, tourists to New Zealand are encouraged to commit to the Tiaki Agreement, which promotes caring for New Zealand’s nature and communities, inspiring visitors to form a deeper connection with the place, and to reflect this in their attitudes and behaviours.
You could support initiatives that prioritise local needs.
You could offset your travel carbon footprint.
Overtourism is not just a distant problem – it is a challenge we face here in Africa’s most treasured landscapes. From the Serengeti to Kruger National Park, the choices of travellers, operators, and policymakers determine whether tourism becomes a force for protection or a source of pressure. By travelling responsibly, supporting sustainable destinations, and respecting local communities and ecosystems, each of us can help ensure that Africa’s wildlife, landscapes, and cultures continue to thrive. The future of these iconic places depends on thoughtful decisions today – because true adventure is only meaningful when it leaves the world better than we found it.
When planning your African safari, who you travel with matters. Choosing a responsible tour operator ensures your journey supports conservation, uplifts local communities, and avoids the pitfalls of overtourism. By selecting destinations that prioritise sustainability over volume, you can experience Africa’s wild beauty in a way that protects it for generations to come. Check out our safari ideas here, or let our travel experts plan the perfect African safari for you by clicking here.
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
DO YOU KNOW how difficult it is to do good?
You will know by now that we donate a portion of the proceeds of every safari we craft for our guests to projects that make a difference at ground level for people and wildlife.
One such chosen project has been sponsoring lion research collars in the greater Hwange region. These free-roaming lions face huge pressure – from poaching, loss of prey base and habitat, to human-wildlife conflict and trophy hunting. These collars enable researchers to better understand lion movements and help keep roaming lions away from villages in this vast, unfenced landscape, thereby reducing loss of human lives and livelihoods. Local people are gainfully employed doing the research and responding by chasing the lions away from villages when the GPS collars trigger an alarm. It’s a win-win.
The collars are, unfortunately, ineffective at protecting the lions against trophy hunters with low or no ethical standards. Witness the hullabaloo surrounding the legal but deeply unethical killing of Blondie and a string of other Hwange pride males over the years.
Our support for local conservation projects comes at a cost to them. We insist on mutual respect, transparency, and exemplary ethical standards. This is not negotiable or up for debate.
And so I regretfully announce that, for now, we have shifted our geographical focus for sponsored lion research collars away from Hwange. We will continue to support lion research elsewhere via our donations, and we are now actively engaging with other research teams. I will keep you posted.
YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Explore the majesty of the mighty Zambezi River and Victoria Falls, and then head into the heart of the raw wilderness of South Luangwa National Park, Zambia – the birthplace of walking safaris and one of Africa’s leopard hotspots. Your last stop is Nankoma Island on Lake Malawi, where you’ll enjoy sun-soaked adventure and ultimate relaxation.
A luxury safari in Zambia, where comfort meets extraordinary wildlife encounters in Lower Zambezi and South Luangwa National Parks – two of the country’s top safari destinations. Indulge in bespoke service, breathtaking landscapes, and intimate wildlife experiences, all while enjoying seamless luxury and discreet, attentive hospitality. This safari is an unforgettable journey and the ultimate safari escape.
Good news from Zambia: leopards and wild dogs are thriving in Kafue National Park. This, according to Musekese Conservation, a nonprofit monitoring wildlife in the Musekese-Lumbeya section of the park. Camera-trap surveys in the area identified 95 individual leopards. At densities of up to nine leopards per 100km², some sections of the park rank among the most leopard-rich landscapes in Southern Africa. And if that’s not good news enough, wild dogs have also rebounded in Kafue – from a single pair to three active packs, with a brand-new pack spotted this year. Lions remain scarcer, but their numbers are slowly climbing too.
These results highlight what determined protection and conservation partnerships can achieve: a landscape where wildlife has a real chance to flourish again.
This week, we bring you a double dose of wild: a deep dive into Mozambique’s Maputo National Park, and fresh insights into the secret dining habits of African wild dogs.
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
MAPUTO NATIONAL PARK
Discover Mozambique’s Maputo National Park – a wild mosaic of elephants, dunes, forests, reefs, and turtle-nesting beaches
WILD DOG DIETS
New DNA analysis reveals surprising prey in African wild dog diets, reshaping our understanding of hunting behaviour
Collaring Kruger’s lions
Ten lions in Kruger National Park are currently part of an exciting project aiming to provide insight into how lion pride behaviour differs in fenced and open systems. Nelson Mandela University researchers (NMU), vets and teams from the Southern African Conservation Trust (SACT) fit satellite-tracking collars on the lions.
This vital project aims to compare various behaviours between open and fenced systems by:
Testing the effect of pride strength on territory size;
Measuring territory infringement;
Testing the pride’s aggressive response during territory infringements;
Comparing stress levels of prides; and
Comparing the ratio of prey resource availability to home range size.
You can help in this important study by sponsoring a collar in full or by donating any amount – large or small – to support this critical conservation project. Learn more here.
WATCH – AFRICAN SAFARI INSPIRATION:
A poignant short documentary exploring how SANParks uses different types of K9s as part of their approach to combating poaching in Kruger National Park. (21:28) Click here to watch
Mozambique, a country celebrated for its vivid coastlines and vibrant cultural tapestry, is home to one of the most important ecological treasures in Southern Africa: Maputo National Park. Stretching across the country’s southern tip, near the borders of South Africa and Eswatini, the park forms the heart of the Maputaland Centre of Endemism – a globally recognised hotspot of biodiversity and ecological importance, and one of the 36 most biologically diverse and endangered regions in the world
Born from the merger of two distinct reserves – the Maputo Special Reserve (Reserva Especial de Maputo) and the Ponta do Ouro Partial Marine Reserve – the park now protects over 1,700 km² of terrestrial and marine wilderness. It is also central to the Usuthu-Tembe-Futi Transfrontier Conservation Area, which reconnects fragmented habitats across international borders. The Futi Corridor links Maputo to South Africa’s Tembe Elephant Park, while the Ponta do Ouro coastline meets the iSimangaliso Wetland Park World Heritage Site in neighbouring South Africa.
Mozambican gem
Only a two- to three-hour drive from the capital, Maputo, this park offers both accessibility and adventure —a rare combination for those eager to immerse themselves in wild landscapes.
Buffaloes dot lush wetlands
Historically, the area was recognised as a game reserve as early as 1932, to protect the small herds of elephants that roamed the coastal plains. Over the decades, the reserve’s boundaries have expanded, and its status has been elevated, reflecting the growing awareness of its ecological significance worldwide. Today, Maputo National Park stands as a testament to Mozambique’s commitment to conservation, offering a sanctuary for an impressive array of flora and fauna and a haven for nature enthusiasts, conservationists, and ecotourists.
Maputo National Park’s landscapes of contrast
The landscape of Maputo NP is a vivid tableau of contrasts, where coastal dune forests give way to verdant grasslands, and dense thickets and towering fig trees fringe freshwater lagoons. The park’s topography is primarily flat, though interspersed with rolling hills, particularly in the inland regions, which offer panoramic views of the surrounding wilderness.
One of the most striking features of the park is its mosaic of ecosystems. The coastal zone, with its sandy beaches and mangrove swamps, transitions seamlessly into lush coastal forests that are home to myriad plant species, including endemic and rare varieties. Inland, the park is characterised by grasslands interspersed with patches of woodland that thrive on sandy, well-drained soils. These grasslands are punctuated by freshwater lakes and rivers that support abundant aquatic life and provide essential resources for the park’s terrestrial inhabitants.
Maputo NP features a diverse array of wetlands, including swamps, freshwater lakes, coastal lagoons, and mangrove forests
The park’s connection to the Indian Ocean creates a dynamic interface where terrestrial and marine systems interlace. Offshore, the marine protected zone includes coral reefs, seagrass beds, and nesting beaches that sustain turtles, dolphins, and seasonal humpback whales.
The park’s tropical climate defines its rhythms. From November to March, rains fill rivers and lagoons, bringing lush vegetation and abundant birdlife. The dry season, from April to October, offers easier wildlife viewing because animals gather at dwindling waterholes.
Maputo NP’s experiences for travellers
Maputo National Park offers diverse attractions that cater to the discerning traveller who seeks both adventure and serenity. The park’s appeal lies not only in its natural beauty but also in the variety of experiences it offers.
Elephant Coast
The park’s emblematic elephants – once reduced to a fragile remnant during Mozambique’s civil war – have made a stirring recovery. Herds roam the coastal plains, often framed by the glittering ocean. Few wildlife experiences rival the sight of elephants against a backdrop of dunes and surf.
Elephants are a priority in Maputo NP’s conservation strategy
Lagoa Piti
For those seeking tranquillity and a deeper connection with nature, a visit to Lagoa Piti is a must. This forest-fringed freshwater lake is a sanctuary for birders and quiet seekers. With its mirror-like waters and diverse avian life, Lagoa Piti offers tranquillity and rare sightings in equal measure.
Ponta do Ouro
Renowned for beaches, diving, and dolphins, Ponta do Ouro is the crown jewel of Maputo NP. Diving enthusiasts are particularly drawn to this area, where the underwater world is teeming with life. The coral reefs are alive with kaleidoscopic fish, turtles, and rays. During the summer months, the waters off Ponta do Ouro become a migratory path for humpback whales, offering a rare opportunity for whale watching. Endangered loggerhead and leatherback turtles return to nest on the sandy beaches each summer.
Leatherback turtle hatchlings make their way to the water
Scenic drives and trails
Travellers can explore on self-drives or guided walks. A highlight is the coastal road from Ponta do Ouro to the mouth of the Maputo River, where the ocean, dunes, and woodland unfold in ever-changing panoramas. For the adventurous, hiking trails thread through woodland and grassland, offering close encounters with the park’s varied ecosystems.
The wildlife of Maputo National Park is as diverse as its landscapes. The park is home to a wide range of species, many of which are of significant conservation concern. The elephant population is perhaps the most iconic of the park’s inhabitants. These elephants, a key focus of the park’s conservation efforts, are often seen in large herds, particularly during the dry season when they gather around the park’s water sources.
Maputo NP’s last census recorded over 12,000 animals now roaming the park, including recently introduced zebra to supplement the population
In addition to elephants, large mammals such as buffalo, hippo, and antelope, including nyala, suni, and red duiker, also roam. Some species remain elusive, rewarding the patient visitor with fleeting glimpses.
In recent years, Maputo NP has been the stage for one of southern Africa’s most ambitious rewilding projects. Since 2018, the Mozambique National Administration for Conservation Areas (ANAC) and Peace Parks Foundation have partnered to restore the park’s ecological heartbeat after decades of conflict and poaching. By 2022, more than 5,100 animals had been translocated, including 11 species that had been locally extinct. Plains game such as kudu, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, eland and buffalo were carefully sourced and released, creating the prey base and ecological diversity needed for a thriving system. The success of these efforts was reflected in the 2021 aerial census, which recorded over 12,000 animals now roaming the park, an extraordinary resurgence in a short space of time.
Building on this foundation, conservationists have begun to reintroduce predators to restore ecological balance. In 2022, five spotted hyenas were translocated from Mozambique’s Sabie Game Park to Maputo National Park, reviving a species once eradicated here. As nature’s consummate scavengers, hyenas play a critical role in recycling nutrients and keeping ecosystems clean. Their arrival signals a new chapter in the park’s revival: not only strengthening predator-prey dynamics but also laying the groundwork for the return of other carnivores, including cheetahs.
Spotted hyenas have been reintroduced to Maputo NP
Birdlife is particularly rewarding, with over 350 recorded species. Enthusiasts can search for regional specials such as Neergard’s sunbird, pink-throated twinspot, rosy-throated longclaw, Rudd’s and Woodward’s batis, African broadbill, and black coucal.
The marine section amplifies this richness: reefs teem with life, dolphins patrol the shallows, and turtle nesting grounds underscore the park’s global conservation importance.
A pod of dolphins along the coast of Maputo NP
Explore & stay in Maputo NP
Maputo NP lies about 100km south of Maputo. The journey takes 2–3 hours by road. A 4×4 vehicle is recommended, especially in sandy or wet-season conditions. International travellers can connect via Maputo International Airport.
When it comes to accommodation, there is much to choose from. From luxury eco-lodges and tented camps that blend into the landscape, to rustic campsites under the stars, the park caters for a range of tastes and budgets.
Knowledgeable local guides enrich the experience with ecological insights and help visitors uncover wildlife that might otherwise go unnoticed.
From November to March, rains fill the rivers and lagoons of Maputo NP
The best time to visit Maputo National Park is during the dry season, from April to October. During this time, the weather is generally cooler and drier, making it easier to spot wildlife, which tends to congregate around known water sources. The dry season also offers better road conditions, making it easier to navigate the park. However, for those interested in marine life, particularly turtle nesting or whale watching, the wet season offers unique opportunities, albeit with the challenge of heavier rains and more difficult driving conditions.
A wilderness reborn
Maputo National Park offers a rare combination of natural beauty, biodiversity, and a sense of wilderness that is increasingly hard to find. The park embodies Mozambique’s commitment to restoring wild places and reconnecting ecosystems fractured by conflict and human pressure. It is a park where elephants walk through dunes, forests echo with the calls of rare birds, and turtles return to ancient nesting grounds.
For travellers seeking authentic wilderness, rich biodiversity, and the thrill of exploration, Maputo National Park is a destination that lingers long after you leave.
Maputo NP is a wilderness reborn
Further reading
Ultimate bush and beach combo safari: Bush or beach? There’s no need to choose! We bring you the best combo safaris featuring epic beach & bush destinations for the ultimate African holiday
Limpopo National Park: Explore wild beauty, 4×4 trails, rare wildlife & local culture in Mozambique’s Limpopo National Park – part of a visionary peace park
Saving Mozambique’s last dugongs: How do we save the last dugong population on Africa’s east coast? African Parks and the government of Mozambique are building local understanding of the elusive dugongs of the Bazaruto Archipelago seascape
The Mozambique turquoise coast – from above: A gallery of seductive images of the Mozambique coastline – pack your bags and include your costume, beach towel and suntan lotion
The African wild dog (painted wolf) has a reputation as a relentless pack hunter, primarily targeting medium-sized antelope like impalas. But recent scientific sleuthing into their scat has painted a more nuanced picture of their dining preferences. DNA analysis has uncovered their surprising dietary habits, challenging long-held beliefs and offering fresh insights for conservation.
Africa’s iconic painted wolves, or African wild dogs (Lycaon pictus), are a species teetering on the brink, listed as endangered since 2012. With only an estimated 600 wild dogs left in South Africa, understanding their ecology and behaviour is essential for their survival. One crucial piece of this puzzle is their diet – what exactly do these highly social carnivores eat? A groundbreaking study by researchers from the University of Pretoria employed DNA metabarcoding, a technique that identifies multiple species within a single environmental sample, to analyse faecal matter from wild dogs across seven distinct landscapes. This method revealed a broader menu than previously documented, including a few unexpected prey species.
The study, conducted by Bridget C. O’Connor and the UP team, specifically focused on the largest wild dog population in South Africa, found within the Kruger National Park. The researchers utilised faecal samples collected across seven different landscape types in KNP.
Traditionally, diet analysis relied on methods like visually examining faecal matter, stomach contents, or direct observation of hunts. While these provided some insights, they often come with logistical limitations and reliability issues, leaving significant gaps in knowledge. But the new methods of DNA metabarcoding and stable isotope analysis (SIA) offer more reliable and accurate dietary predictions. SIA indicates an animal’s trophic level and general prey type, but typically cannot identify specific prey species. DNA metabarcoding, however, can pinpoint species-level diet details by matching DNA barcodes in samples to reference databases.
The usual prey suspects and surprising additions
Previous observations suggested that African wild dogs primarily prey on medium-sized ungulates, with impala (Aepyceros melampus) being their key prey species due to its abundance in most South African reserves, including Kruger National Park. Both the stable isotope analysis and the metabarcoding results from this study supported this existing understanding, identifying impala as the major prey species across almost all landscape types studied.
However, the DNA metabarcoding unveiled some unexpected additions to the wild dog menu, including Cape hares, francolins, and vlei rats. The presence of smaller prey species suggests that highly social, cooperative wild dogs may not always rely on coordinated pack hunts. Instead, individual members might occasionally embark on solo foraging missions, supplementing their diet with opportunistic catches.
Impala were identified as the major prey item for wild dogs in Kruger, as expected, but a few surprising prey items were also found
This contradicts the traditional view of wild dogs as “rate-maximising optimal foragers” that specialise in abundant medium to large ungulates and forgo opportunistic hunts, indicating a level of adaptability and resourcefulness that challenges the traditional view of their strictly cooperative hunting strategies.
Perhaps the most intriguing detections were those of spotted hyena and elephant DNA. However, this is not necessarily indicative of predation, but rather points to the complex ecological interactions and shared habitats that these canines navigate. Instances of wild dogs consuming elephant dung, perhaps to extract nutrients or target dung beetles, further exemplify their opportunistic feeding habits.
Insights for wild dog conservation
Understanding the full spectrum of the African wild dog’s diet is vital for effective conservation. Recognising their dietary flexibility informs habitat management and prey availability assessments, ensuring efforts align with ecological needs. As populations face threats from habitat fragmentation and human-wildlife conflict, insight is key for crafting protection plans. In this light, DNA metabarcoding is a game-changer, enriching knowledge of wild dog ecology and highlighting the potential of advanced genetic tools in research. Faecal samples provide a “short-term snapshot” of diet (up to four days), often more accurate for resolving landscape-specific differences than the “long-term information” from hair samples.
By unveiling hidden aspects of feeding behaviour, scientists can better predict how these predators adapt to environmental change. Precise knowledge of wild dog diet also improves nutritional protocols for captive populations and informs translocation decisions. In South Africa, many wild dogs belong to managed or free-roaming groups overseen by organisations such as the Endangered Wildlife Trust, which may hold them temporarily to aid translocations. This insight enhances conflict mitigation and provides clearer indicators of ecosystem health. The study also identified priorities for future research, including more comprehensive prey DNA databases, blocking host DNA amplification, and ensuring fresh samples for stronger results.
The study challenges the notion that wild dogs are strictly cooperative hunters
This research marks a significant step forward in our understanding of the African wild dog’s ecological role. By peering into wild-dog dietary habits through the lens of DNA analysis, researchers have uncovered a previously unappreciated level of dietary breadth and behavioural adaptability – moving beyond general assumptions to uncover the hidden truths of their daily meals. These detailed findings are crucial for ensuring the long-term survival of these magnificent predators in the wild.
Hope for African wild dogs?: Could we double African wild dog (painted wolf) numbers by 2050? With funding, collaboration and recovered territory, it’s possible.
The 6 top places to see painted wolves: Looking for the best place to see African painted wolves? We bring you six of our favourite spots to scout for wild dogs
Soul of the safari + best of bush & beach + 4 giraffes
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
Shhhhh, it’s a secret!
The soul of a safari is not about ticking off the Big 5 or witnessing Mara River crossings during the Great Wildebeest Migration, although those are indeed extremely special encounters to be cherished. It’s the moments in between (or in place of) these encounters that define a memorable journey.
Our treasured repeat safari guests often share with us the moments they remember for years as they go about their everyday lives on the treadmill of working life.
Our guests love watching predators converge on alates (flying termites) emerging after the first rains – from eagles to leopards, toads to chameleons – all gorging on those parcels of nutrition. Next time, try tasting the termites to see what the fuss is all about – delicious!
They relish the quickening of senses, that narrowing of focus, when walking near dense thickets and hearing oxpeckers chirring their alarm calls from above.
And they know the joyous freedom and fulfilment that comes from skipping an early morning game drive to stroll around the lodge gardens looking for birds before settling on the deck with a mug of coffee and freshly baked biscuits.
Our connoisseur guests enjoy the luxury of not seeing another human during a game drive, as often happens in remote areas off the beaten tourism tracks and outside of the busy peak safari season.
If you yearn to experience the true soul of a safari, start the discussion with one of our safari experts.
This essay was powered by a heady blend of pressed coffee and a bushveld dawn chorus. Bliss. Peace out
Sometimes, the smallest creatures carry the biggest weight. Case in point: the speckled dwarf tortoise(Chersobius signatus) – the world’s tiniest tortoise, and South Africa’s latest conservation celebrity.
Thanks to the Endangered Wildlife Trust, the Lokenburg Conservation Servitude has been registered on a farm in the Northern Cape, securing long-term protection for this pocket-sized reptile and its fragile habitat. Within Lokenburg, in the Bokkeveld landscape, special tortoise management zones will help keep pied crows in check, giving the tortoises a fighting chance.
What’s more, the Nel family, who’ve farmed Lokenburg for six generations, are showing how rooibos and livestock farming and biodiversity can thrive side by side.
Their commitment proves that conservation and community livelihoods don’t just coexist – they can actually strengthen each other. And thanks to this cooperation, South Africa’s smallest tortoise just scored one of its biggest wins.
This week, we bring the news that the IUCN has now officially recognised that there are four separate giraffe species, and not just one species with several subspecies. Plus, we bring you our list of the ultimate bush and beach combo safaris.
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
ULTIMATE BUSH AND BEACH
Bush or beach? There’s no need to choose! Here are the top combo safaris featuring epic beach & bush destinations
FOUR GIRAFFES
The IUCN has confirmed that there are four giraffe species and not one – reshaping conservation across Africa
The IUCN has confirmed that there are four giraffe species and not one – reshaping conservation across Africa This luxury safari offers an unforgettable introduction to the stunning beauty of Kenya’s diverse landscapes and endangered species. Encounter rare Nubian/Rothschild’s giraffes up close, see the Big Five, find majestic rhinos – Africa’s unicorns – and unwind in luxurious accommodations amidst breathtaking landscapes. You’ll also engage in a range of activities, ranging from hiking to horseback riding, bush picnics and bush walks.
The perfect bush and beach trifecta. A classic Tanzanian bush and beach safari that immerses you in iconic locations with time-honoured luxury camps. This is an unforgettable 10-day sojourn that blends the untamed beauty of Tanzania’s northern safari circuit with the tranquil allure of its pristine beaches. You’ll journey through Tarangire National Park to the awe-inspiring panoramas of the Ngorongoro Crater, the sweeping plains of Serengeti National Park, and the sun-kissed shores of Zanzibar.
AG safari guest Aurore from the UK went on a brilliant family safari to Botswana:
“Sally-Anne helped us plan a trip in the Okavango Delta and did an excellent job at it. She listened carefully to our expectations and was able to offer an outstanding itinerary with a variety of landscapes and experiences, which was within our budget. Her knowledge of the area added huge value to the planning process. The execution was flawless with very enjoyable camps and straightforward transfers between camps, and we had a brilliant holiday. Would not hesitate to highly recommend.”
Spy cameras, disguised as dung and an egret, follow a baby elephant who strays from his herd and learns why it’s dangerous to be alone in the wild. (05:06) Click here to watch
The traditional combination of a bush and beach holiday is one of the most popular approaches to any trip to Africa – for good reason. Spending time on safari is undoubtedly the perfect balm for the soul. Yet the early mornings and exciting activities of a frenetic safari are best complemented by a few days of relaxing on one of Africa’s magnificent beaches.
But how to choose the best locations? Have a look at our list of the best bush and beach combos.
Greater Kruger, South Africa & the beaches of Mozambique
The Greater Kruger, South Africa’s premier safari destination, offers some of the best safari experiences on the continent, especially when it comes to seeing the Big 5. With a couple of spectacular sightings under one’s belt, the renowned beaches and azure waters of Mozambique are just a short flight away, offering the perfect Mozambique beach holiday
Here, visitors can recline on white sands (cocktail in hand) or take to the waters to enjoy the cornucopia of oceanic creatures in the Mozambique Channel. The beaches of Ponta Mamoli remain one of Mozambique’s best-kept secrets, despite their proximity to the South African border, while further afield, the islands of the Bazaruto Archipelago National Park protect some of the country’s rare marine mammals.
The extensive white beaches of the Bazaruto ArchipelagoGreater Kruger offers some of the best safari experiences on the continent
KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa
KwaZulu-Natal province is one of South Africa’s most diverse regions, home to myriad habitats and animal life.
KZN offers many wild opportunities for experiencing the bushveld and wild animals, from verdant forests and wetlands to rolling savannas and grasslands. A number of wildlife reserves – including Big 5 parks such as Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park and Manyoni Private Game Reserve – offer a plethora of wildlife experiences. As an added bonus, its long stretch of coastline is lined by characterful and picturesque beaches with stunning year-round weather. The beaches of iSimangaliso Wetland Park are as wild and private as they come, neighbouring Mkuze Game Reserve offers ample wildlife viewing, and just further south, the Dolphin Coast lines the vibrant beach town of Ballito (with magnificent Salt Rock well worth a visit).
Spotting the Big 5 in ManyoniWhale watching off the coast of Isimangaliso Wetland Park
South Luangwa, Zambia & Lake Malawi, Malawi
Not so keen on the salty residues of the ocean? How better to wash away the dust and ease tired feet at the end of an invigorating walking safari in South Luangwa than in the crystalline waters of a freshwater lake surrounded by palm-tree fringed beaches?
An idyllic beach on the shores of Lake Malawi
Walking safaris in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park offer the opportunity to experience enormous herds of elephants and buffaloes, as well as dazzling leopard sightings. After exploring the park, head to the extensive shoreline of Lake Malawi, with its tiny beach villages, resorts and lodges. The lake offers the adventurous tourist a plethora of opportunities to explore the waters – above or below the azure ripples.
South Luangwa is a vast wilderness and playground for tourists seeking an authentic safari experienceThe lengthy white beaches of Lake Malawi are lined with tiny beach villages, resorts and lodges
Not for nothing is this one of Tanzania’s most popular attractions, and electrifying wildlife experiences are all but guaranteed. So, why not dive into the embrace of the Indian Ocean, soak up the resplendent marine scenery and take a few days to reflect on a life-changing vacation in the privacy of intimate Mafia Island? And why not tick an experience with endangered sea turtles off your list while you’re at it?
A trip to the Serengeti – an essential destination for any avid safari-goer – is well complemented by a beach break to Mafia IslandSnorkelling to see whale sharks off the coast of Mafia Island (Check out @daniellamborn for more images)
The Tanzania tour: quieter safari circuits and an island paradise
Serengeti and Ngorongoro are spectacular for wildlife viewing, but they are not Tanzania’s only safari fare. Some of the less well-known national parks are equally exhilarating, and they are quieter and kinder on the pocket.
Spotting chimps in Mahale National ParkCheetahs in Ruaha National Park. Tanzania offers a robust safari circuit
Think Gombe and Mahale National Parks for chimpanzees, dry-season Katavi National Park, the predator extravaganza of Ruaha National Park or the wildlife smorgasbord in Nyerere National Park (incorporating Selous Game Reserve). From there, a short trip off the mainland will deposit fortunate travellers on the vibrant island of Zanzibar – an eclectic melting pot of cultures offering a beach holiday unlike any other. Try this epic Ruaha / Mafia Island bush and beach combo
The crystalline waters of Zanzibar beautifully round off a Tanzania safari
Take your pick, Kenya
Ah, Kenya, a country blessed with beauty and wildlife in abundance. Safari options abound in this land of plenty. Take in the iconic scenes framed by Mount Kilimanjaro in Amboseli National Park, search for black leopards in Laikipia County, or revere the giant red tuskers of arid Tsavo East and West National Parks. As if these wildlife delights were not enough, the Kenyan coastline is equally bestowed with impressive holiday destinations, from lively Watamu and Malindi to the more peaceful and reserved Diani and Lamu.
The otherworldly coastlines of MalindiKenya has much to offer the visitor seeking a diverse array of experiences, including: the majestic elephants of AmboseliSundowners on Kenya’s northern beaches
Maasai Mara, Kenya & Seychelles
No visit to Kenya is complete without a stop to appreciate the rolling vistas of the celebrated Maasai Mara at least once. Pack in over a million wildebeest and zebras trundling their way through during the Great Migration, and the scene is set for unforgettable Kenyan experience. And afterwards, why not travel a little further afield to the glorious islands of the breathtaking tropical paradise of Seychelles?
Combine the romance of the Seychelles (and peaceful Mahé Island as pictured) with the wide plains and epic wildlife sightings of the Maasai MaraEpic wildlife sightings of the Maasai MaraSunrise in the Maasai Mara
Greater Kruger and Cape Town, South Africa
Greater Kruger is such an epic and easily accessibly option that we had to name it twice. There are few holiday combinations more iconic than Cape Town and the Greater Kruger. Start at the southern tip of Africa, where the Mother City offers a rich mix of culture, history, fine dining, and dramatic natural beauty. From strolling along the vibrant V&A Waterfront to summiting Table Mountain or exploring the Cape Winelands, Cape Town is an adventure in itself.
Once the city lights fade behind you, fly north to immerse yourself in the untamed wilderness of South Africa’s Greater Kruger. Complementing a ocean meets winelands holiday with sightings of leopards, lions, and elephants makes for a world-class experience. The combination of cosmopolitan Cape Town and the raw bushveld drama of the Kruger makes this one of Africa’s most timeless safari-and-beach pairings.
The oceans of Cape Town are a must-visitExperiencing elephants on foot in Greater Kruger
Addo and Garden Route, South Africa
For a family-friendly bush-and-beach pairing, the Eastern Cape and its iconic reserves such as Addo Elephant National Park, coupled with the Garden Route, deliver in spades. The Garden Route’s dramatic coastline winds past lush forests, lagoons, and golden beaches, making it one of the most scenic drives in the world. Towns such as Knysna, Plettenberg Bay, and Wilderness offer plenty of opportunities to relax, hike, or paddle, while whale-watching and marine safaris add a salty twist to the journey.
At the end of the route lies Addo Elephant National Park and a collection of surrounding private reserves, where malaria-free safaris bring visitors face-to-trunk with elephants, lions, and more. This combination is particularly popular with families thanks to its accessibility, variety, and balance of relaxation and adventure – a safari experience wrapped in South Africa’s coastal splendour.
Experience the Big 5 in Addo Elephant National ParkAddo and surrounding reserves offer a quintessential safari experienceThe coastline of South Africa’s Garden Route
Final thoughts on your bush and beach combo safari
From the thrill of game drives and walking safaris to the restorative calm of palm-fringed shores, bush-and-beach holidays offer travellers a chance to experience Africa in its fullest expression. Whether it’s watching elephants in Greater Kruger before sinking your toes into the sands of Bazaruto, or combining Tanzania’s diverse wildlife with Zanzibar’s vibrant beaches, each pairing brings its own unique rhythm of adventure and relaxation. However you choose to blend the wild with the waves, one thing is certain – Africa’s bush and beach safaris promise a journey you’ll never forget.
For centuries, giraffes were thought to be a single species. Now, after years of debate and groundbreaking research, science has officially recognised four distinct giraffe species. This historic IUCN decision reshapes how the world will conserve Africa’s tallest giants.
The classification of giraffes has proved surprisingly contentious over the past few decades. For centuries, all giraffes were considered a single species, with nine subspecies officially recognised. However, groundbreaking research, significantly advanced by the Giraffe Conservation Foundation (GCF) and the Senckenberg Biodiversity and Climate Research Centre (SBiK-F), has now confirmed what scientists have suspected for over a decade: there are not one, but four distinct species of giraffe, and seven subspecies. This has been formally recognised in a historic International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) decision. This landmark reclassification is set to reshape giraffe conservation efforts across Africa.
This isn’t taxonomy for taxonomy’s sake. Treating giraffe as four species sharpens conservation priorities, unlocking species-specific action where it’s most needed. As the Giraffe Conservation Foundation puts it, “each giraffe species faces different threats,” so management can now be tailored accordingly, and with more urgency.
A decade of giraffe discovery and debate
The journey to this pivotal decision began over a decade ago. In 2016, collaborative research involving the GCF and SBiK-F first suggested a four-species division based on genetic data. The data showed deep divergences between giraffe populations.
Dr. Axel Janke, a geneticist at SBiK-F and Goethe University, expressed surprise at the “large genetic differences in giraffe” given their seemingly limited morphological and coat pattern variations.
Research showed that these lineages diverged roughly 230–370 thousand years ago: Middle Pleistocene timing comparable to well-known mammal splits. One recent genome study even shows that reticulated giraffe carry ancestry from historical admixture between northern and southern giraffe ~200,000 years ago: ancient mingling that didn’t erase species boundaries.
This initial study, however, sparked considerable debate over the correct classification. Scientists have historically proposed anything from two to nine different giraffe species. The re-evaluation of giraffe taxonomy was critical, particularly as the IUCN had previously recognised only one giraffe species, albeit with nine subspecies, each with a separate conservation status.
And so, the IUCN Species Survival Commission’s Giraffe and Okapi Specialist Group (GOSG) Taxonomic Task Force, launched in 2024, embarked on an extensive review.
Prof. Janke and the SBiK-F, together with GCF under Dr Julian Fennessy, spearheaded a continent-wide genomic study that saw researchers collect tissue samples from giraffe populations across Africa, even in politically unstable and remote regions such as Chad, Niger, and South Sudan.
The scientific evidence was compelling, relying on multiple lines of investigation:
Extensive genetic data: Analyses of nuclear and mitochondrial DNA revealed large differences between several giraffe lineages – strong evidence of multiple species. These genetic divergences were profound, so much so that “the differences between giraffe species are as distinct as those between brown and polar bears,” according to Prof. Janke.
Morphological differentiation: Studies of skull structure and bone shape also showed notable differences across regions, complementing the genetic findings.
Biogeographic assessments: Researchers also considered the role of natural barriers, such as major rivers, rift valleys, and arid zones, which could have contributed to the evolutionary isolation of these distinct populations.
Natural barriers such as the Nile River, Lake Victoria, the Kunene and Zambezi Rivers, and climatic/phenological divides help explain why these lineages remained distinct over evolutionary time.
Together, these robust findings provided the scientific support needed to raise certain giraffe populations to full-species status, acknowledging their unique evolutionary histories. “To describe four new large mammal species after more than 250 years of taxonomy is extraordinary,” remarked Prof. Janke, “Especially for animals as iconic as giraffe, which roam Africa in plain sight”.
“This landmark taxonomic revision by the IUCN Giraffe and Okapi Specialist Group reflects the best available science and provides a globally standardised framework to inform conservation,” stated Michael Brown, Co-Chair of the IUCN GOSG.
The report officially recognises four distinct giraffe species, each with its own subspecies:
Northern giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis) – With approximately 7,037remaining, this species is divided into three species: West African (G. c. peralta), Kordofan (G. c. antiquorum), Nubian (G. c. camelopardalis).
Northern giraffes in Niger (left) and Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda
Reticulated giraffe (Giraffa reticulata) – With around 20,091 remaining, this species currently has no proposed subspecies.
A reticulated giraffe in Samburu National Park, Kenya
Masai giraffe (Giraffa tippelskirchi) – Approximately 43,926 individuals remain, and the study suggests the recognition of the following as subspecies: Masai s.s. (G. t. tippelskirchi), Thornicroft’s (G. t. thornicrofti).
Masai giraffes
Southern giraffe (Giraffa giraffa) – The most common, with around 68,836 remaining, it has two subscpecies: South African (G. g. giraffa), and Angolan (G. g. angolensis).
Southern giraffe
Why this matters for the conservation of giraffes
This isn’t just an academic exercise; it’s a critical turning point for conservation. Recognising four species offers a more nuanced understanding of the unique conservation threats and opportunities each of these distinct taxa faces across the diverse African landscapes they inhabit. As Dr Fennessy emphasised: “This recognition is more than symbolic… Each giraffe species faces different threats, and now we can tailor conservation strategies to meet their specific needs. It gives African countries and the global community the tools to act, before it’s too late”.
The IUCN will now assess each species separately for the Red List. This will also influence national and international conservation policies aimed at preventing giraffe decline. By understanding giraffe taxonomy more precisely, conservationists are better equipped to assess their status and implement effective strategies.
While the latest population assessments for these giraffe species showed current increases for northern, reticulated and southern giraffe, and a stable Masai giraffe population, IUCN assessments look at long timeframes (over a period of three generations or 10 years) and consider factors such as fragmented ranges, and ongoing threats such as poaching and habitat loss when assigning status.
Early signals suggest three of the four may qualify as threatened, reflecting declines and fragmentation that were easy to underestimate when numbers were pooled. This highlights the urgency of the situation. As Stephanie Fennessy, GCF’s Executive Director, profoundly stated: “What a tragedy it would be to lose a species we’ve only just discovered”.
The future of Africa’s giraffes
This historic decision underscores the importance of combining intensive fieldwork with cutting-edge genetics to drive real-world conservation outcomes. Taxonomy, as the GOSG reminds us, is an evolving science, and as new evidence emerges, classifications will continue to be reassessed.
For now, this landmark reclassification lays a crucial foundation for protecting Africa’s magnificent, long-necked giants.
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
Did you know?
Odzala-Kokoua NP (Congo-Brazzaville) is the most reliable of only a few places in the world where you can encounter both habituated and unhabituated gorillas?
What’s the difference? Some gorilla families have been habituated to meet small groups of tourists who pay for a trekking permit to spend time with them. Tourists trek in mountainous terrain to find these gorillas and wear masks during their one-hour encounter. On the other hand, it is possible to watch unhabituated gorillas and other wildlife such as forest elephants, forest buffaloes and bongos from an elevated covered tree house overlooking a forest clearing. For gorilla watching, there is no time limit to your stay; you can watch numerous gorillas as they come and go, there is no strenuous hiking involved, no masks to be worn and no trek permit payment.
A few weeks ago, one of our guests, a solo lady traveller, enjoyed both options and saw 50 western lowland gorillas in 14 days. She also saw chimpanzees, bongos, sitatungas, hyenas hunting red river hogs and plenty of forest elephants and forest buffaloes. There is no question in my mind that this is Africa’s most enticing safari offering right now, and that my team is best equipped to make this safari happen for travel connoisseurs. Email Stef to plan your gorilla odyssey.
Oh, just to remind you that Congo-Brazzaville is the small African country to the west of the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC). The troubled region in the far east of DRC is more than 1,500km from Congo-Brazzaville, which is a peaceful and safe country to visit.
Some animals are so elusive they might as well be folklore, and the African striped weasel is one of them. A slinky little black-and-white ghost, it bounces across the veld in the dead of night, vanishing before most of us even realise it exists. Blink, and you’ll mistake this mysterious carnivore for a polecat. And rumour has it they hunt mole rats inside their tunnels – though we don’t know enough about them to be sure. In truth, most people will never lay eyes on an African striped weasel.
But this secretive carnivore is no myth. A new research project by PhD candidate Kyle Smith from the University of Pretoria aims to uncover how these little predators live, what they hunt, how they move, and where they persist. The biggest challenge? Simply finding them. That’s where citizen science comes in. Sightings, photos, GPS pins, even scat if you’re brave (or unlucky) enough to find it. So, if you’ve crossed paths with a striped shadow on four legs, now’s the time to speak up and report your experience.
This week’s stories take us from hard truths to hopeful horizons: a new study lays bare the risks of South Africa’s commercial lion farming industry, revealing its lack of conservation value, while in Namibia’s Kunene Region, long-awaited rains have brought renewal and fresh life to this remarkable desert landscape and its wildlife.
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
KUNENE’S REVIVAL
Rains in Kunene spark hope: wildlife returns, communities rebuild, and conservancies lead recovery in this Namibian desert frontier
CAPTIVE LIONS
A new study of 160+ sources outlines the risks of South Africa’s commercial lion farming industry – warning it may fuel demand for lion body parts
Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas
Bush & beach safari – 7 days – from ZAR62,790pps
This safari combines the adventure of a Big 5 Zululand safari with the warm waters and white sandy beaches of the KwaZulu-Natal coastline. Expect 5-star treatment all the way. From a luxury tented camp in a riverine forest on the Msunduze River in Manyoni Private Game Reserve, to luxurious living in a chic boutique beach guest house, this safari is a real treat. Enjoy exciting game drives, spa treatments, delicious dining under the stars, ocean swimming, and snorkelling.
Ultimate Kafue safari – 7 days – from US$5,590pps
This safari visits central and northern Kafue National Park, Zambia – teeming with predators and vast herds of lechwe, buffalo and elephants. You’ll explore the Kafue River, vast stretches of river valleys, and the swampy floodplains of Busanga Plains, which are brimful with big cats, their prey, and prolific bird life. Enjoy daily guided activities, including game drives, walking safaris, and boating. Free return flights between Lusaka and Kafue are included!
AG safari guest Louise, from Australia, went on a magical and life-changing solo adventure to Odzala-Kokoua National Park, Congo-Brazzaville:
“I wanted to go to the Congo Basin, but it was difficult to find travel info. I made an enquiry to AG and the next day Stefan phoned me in Australia from South Africa. He understood exactly what I wanted and soon sent a proposed itinerary with no ties attached. Stef handled everything down to the smallest detail.
When I ran into difficulty boarding my flight to Congo, Stef had no hesitation in assisting me, even though I had organised my own flights…. He stayed with me through the stressful process until I was cleared to board… and once in Brazzaville, I was taken care of right there in the airport… and it was plain sailing from there.
My trip was beyond belief. All the camps I went to were so nice. Imbalanga was amazing for the forest treks and the baï that is only a three-minute walk from the camp…. I was lucky enough to see two different groups of gorillas and a troop of colobus monkeys. I went there a couple of times a day…. When the primates were there, they were there for hours….
I then went to the Kamba camps…. I went on two gorilla treks: both very different experiences. The first was adrenaline-charged as there was a rogue silverback hanging around the group, causing some drama. The second was a lot more chilled but very, very cute. Lots of young ones and one particularly cheeky blackback. My guides, Dylan and Ben, were amazing and knowledgeable. They did everything within their power to make sure I saw the wildlife without disturbing them. I saw more forest elephant than I ever imagined. I even saw some rare creatures, be it ever so fleeting, including chimpanzee, bongo, and sitatunga antelope…. It was just amazing to be in the forest or on the river. I have done quite a bit of travelling, but this was the best trip ever. Being in the forest is magical…. I have been asked where I want to go next but the truth is, I just want to go back. No disappointments – not one.”
Western lowland gorillas, forest elephants, bongos, dwarf crocodiles, huge flocks of grey parrots & green pigeons – and much more. Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote northwest of Congo-Brazzaville is covered in forests, rivers, marshes, and swamps, and is an integral part of the Congo Basin. The most distinctive characteristic of the Congo rainforest is the forest baïs – island clearings in the sea of trees. Here, marshy areas rich in minerals and salts attract a plethora of wildlife. Odzala-Kokoua is one of Africa’s oldest national parks and the ideal destination for lowland gorilla watching. (05:27) Click here to watch
For more videos celebrating Africa, check out our videos here
After years of crippling drought, Namibia’s Kunene Region is stirring back to life. Desert-adapted wildlife is returning and local conservationists are working to secure a brighter future for people and nature alike. Gail Thomson returns to the region and is heartened by what she finds: desert wildlife rebounding, communities rebuilding, and recovery in this stark but spectacular region.
Namibia’s Kunene Region is home to famously desert-adapted wildlife that lives alongside the Ovahimba, Ovaherero and Damara people. This area is almost entirely covered by communal conservancies, many of which have been operating for over 20 years. The last ten years have been a challenging time for the people and wildlife sharing this landscape due to widespread drought.
During a trip in early March this year, my husband and I witnessed the effects of this multi-year drought, as the rocky desert landscape looked harsh and barren. This all changed with good rains in April and May 2025 – the best the Kunene has received in many years. We decided to organise another trip in July to see how the rains had transformed the landscape, and to find out how the wildlife and people in communal conservancies are faring.
What we found were signs of a new dawn for the region. Wildlife is starting to repopulate the area, while dedicated community conservationists are finding ways to support their recovery.
Kunene after the rains
Finding life in the desert
The key to understanding the Kunene is an expert guide. While anyone with a 4×4 vehicle can explore the Kunene Region on their own, few will see beyond the landscape to understand wildlife movements and human behaviour in response to the recent rains. We therefore met up with Boas Hambo, a local expert in the Kunene Region, to gain deeper insights.
Boas is part of a new generation of African conservationists who are bringing African perspectives and ideas to a field that non-Africans have historically dominated.
We approached the semi-arid Kunene Region from the west, via the stark true desert of the Skeleton Coast. While these gravel plains host many forms of life, not much of it can be seen while driving. Only after travelling inland for nearly 50km did we start encountering patches of yellow that could conceivably be grass. As we drove, the tiny tufts gave way to fully grown grass plants that had turned from green early in the wet season to their yellow winter form.
The grass was a welcome sight, clothing the red rocks in a gossamer cloak that thickened to a fluffy carpet in areas that received excellent rainfall. Such abundant grass is beautiful, yet it shows that there are few grazing animals left to eat it. Many cattle have died in recent years, leaving livestock-dependent communities destitute and hungry. “Milk is an extremely important part of the diet out here,” says Boas. “When we run out of maize meal, we survive on cups of milk from our cattle and goats.” But milk becomes scarce when the cattle are all dead, and goats and sheep are barely clinging to life.
Communities are heavily dependent on livestock – and drought threatens their survival
Unsurprisingly, wildlife numbers have been dropping each year during the drought and are now very low, according to annual game count figures. These game-count trends reflect both real population decreases and movement. “Each animal has a different way of dealing with the drought – for example, the Hartmann’s mountain zebras move into the inaccessible mountainous areas during drought in search of natural springs and grazing that is not accessible to cattle,” Boas tells us.
He also suggests that now that the drought has broken, the gemsbok will spend more time in the true desert to the west, where there is still grass and plenty of gemsbok melons – fleshy desert fruits that gemsbok love. Since the game counts take place by road and do not cover the coastal desert or the inaccessible mountains, it is difficult to say precisely how many gemsbok and zebras have died in the drought versus how many have moved.
Mountainsides lush after recovery
What we do know, courtesy of a giraffe-specific monitoring programme by Giraffe Conservation Foundation, is that giraffe numbers have remained stable during the drought years. As specialist browsers, the giraffes do not need grass, although they will benefit from fresh leaves after the rains. On our trip, we saw baby giraffes in nearly every herd we encountered, indicating that their population should grow. Surprisingly, giraffes do not need to drink water – although they drink readily when water is available, they can obtain all the moisture they need from leaves alone.
And Boas is optimistic: “I saw many more animals during the conservancy game count this year than in previous years, although the official statistics for the whole count aren’t out yet.”
Stark contrast: a giraffe before the rains……and giraffes after the rains
During our many hours on the road exploring, we got to know Boas’s backstory. Like many young Herero and Himba boys growing up in the 80s, Boas was sent to look after goats at an age when most urban children start attending primary school. Although he started school later than most, he seized his opportunity for education with both hands. As a teenager, he took a job with Integrated Rural Development and Nature Conservation (IRDNC).
Boas flourished with IRDNC and was promoted from general camp-hand to trainer of community game guards. After that, he worked with the Community Rhino Rangers Programme to counter the threat of black-rhino poaching in the communal conservancies. He now works for Conservancy Safaris Namibia, leading multi-day expeditions that explore the Kunene Region. As a result of his work, he has spent many hours on the road with numerous conservation stalwarts, including Garth Owen-Smith, Dr Margaret Jacobsohn and Russell Vinjevold – mentors who provided different perspectives and experiences on conservation and tourism.
Boas in a quiet moment along the river
During his varied career, Boas has followed desert-adapted lions for weeks on end, patrolled thousands of square kilometres to monitor and protect black rhinos, assisted conservancies to develop and implement natural-resource management plans, and introduced international guests to the vast wilderness he calls home. He has not forgotten his farming roots, however, and still keeps livestock near his home in Warmquelle, Kunene.
In short, there are few people alive today who possess such a deep understanding of local culture and farming practices, animal behaviour, practical nature conservation and the role of tourism in the Kunene Region. His perspective on the wildlife we saw and the conservation concepts we discussed enriched our journey and added meaning to our observations.
Elephants and lions in the famous Hoanib River
Unlike giraffes, elephants are heavily dependent on water and therefore greatly affected by the drought. In Kunene, the herds have been increasingly restricted to the dry riverbeds, where natural springs and artificial waterpoints quench their thirst. The giant Ana trees provide nutrient-rich pods, while riverine vegetation survives the drought better than outside the riverbed.
View from the Khowarib Community Campsite, located in the upper reaches of the Hoanib River. This water comes from a permanent spring that does not reach the lower parts of the Hoanib. Even the dry parts of the river support more vegetation during drought than elsewhere
The restrictions that drought places on elephant movement and nutrition nonetheless take a toll. Elephant calves suffer the most during drought. Half of the calves in this far western population died within their first year during 2023, according to a report from Desert Elephant Conservation. Female elephants that are barely meeting their nutritional requirements will not readily come into oestrous, and those that do have calves may not produce enough milk to sustain them.
On our trip down the Hoanib River, a stronghold for desert-adapted elephants, we saw some of the new babies of the season. “I counted 14 baby elephants in the Hoanib earlier this year,” says Boas, “it seems that we are now in a ‘baby boom ’ and I hope that this population will continue to grow.” These elephants are a key tourist attraction for the few lodges in the Hoanib Valley.
Spotting young elephant calves – an indication of recovery
That night, we camped outside the riverbed at one of the bush camping sites. This site is far enough away from the river to be safely out of the way of the wildlife – including hungry lions. During a drought, lions can benefit from staying in riverbeds and near waterpoints, knowing that their prey will have to come to them. When the drought breaks, however, lions find themselves in a precarious position. The prey species spread out to take advantage of the widespread grazing and natural water sources. When the overall population is as low as it is now, hunting becomes very difficult.
The lions have adapted to this situation in several ways, some of which are fascinating for research, while others are concerning from a human-lion conflict point of view. In the Hoanib River, the lions started specialising in giraffe hunting, which became the most common prey animal available. On our trip, we found the male lion known as “OB” feeding on a giraffe that he had killed the night before.
We heard this good news long before we found the lion, since we encountered Allu Jauire Uararaui – a human-wildlife conflict specialist for Integrated Rural Development and Nature Conservation under Russell Vinjevold – soon after entering the river valley. Boas and Allu are old colleagues, and Allu readily agreed to us following him to the lion and its kill. They have been watching this lion’s movements via its satellite collar for months, and were mainly concerned when it left the Hoanib and started roaming near human settlements. “This male lion is significant, since he is the only adult male left in this area”, explains Allu, “so I came out here to check that he was back in the riverbed and not out in the village lands.”
Managing these lions is a delicate balancing act, one which Boas and Allu know all about. Boas had followed the female lion known as “Charly” for a whole month while assisting a Japanese film crew. Tragically, she killed well-known Namibian businessman, Bernd Kebbel (who generously supported the conservation of desert lions), when he exited his tent during a night in the Hoanib River a few weeks before our visit. The authorities promptly euthanised the lion due to the danger she presented to both tourists and locals.
Besides the male lion we encountered and Charly, the other desert-adapted lions in the western Kunene have moved to the coast, where they hunt Cape fur seals and other marine life. Dr Philip “Flip” Stander documented the return of lions to the coast and currently focuses his research on how they are adapting to their new diet and surroundings. OB, the lion we saw, is now the pride male in the area, and he joins the lionesses regularly to mate. The current pair of cubs on the coastline is his.
“The lodges and tour operators want to see more lions, which is understandable,” Boas remarked, “yet there is not enough prey yet to support the lions – we need to focus on rebuilding the prey base, while still trying to keep the few remaining lions out of harm’s way.” If prey numbers increase and stabilise, then lions could be reintroduced from populations in the eastern parts of the Kunene, after consultation with the relevant conservancies.
Supporting Kunene conservancies at a critical time
After leaving our bush camp near the Hoanib, we headed north through Puros village, across the Hoarusib River and into Orupembe Conservancy – our destination: Etaambura Lodge – one of my favourite places to stay in Namibia. Etaambura is managed by Conservancy Safaris, and both are owned by five conservancies including Orupembe: Puros, Sanitatas, Okonjombo and Marienfluss.
Etaambura Lodge
Conservancy Safaris and Etaambura were founded by Garth Owen-Smith and Dr Margaret Jacobsohn (co-founders of IRDNC), together with friends who accompanied them on multi-day journeys through the region. Their primary purpose was to provide support for the conservancies. Their current community development and conservation efforts are supported through Jamma Communities & Conservation. Their community initiatives included the building of a school, and the ongoing school feeding programme for the village near Etaambura. The lodge also provides cash benefits to the community during the worst part of the drought.
A family of Monteiro’s hornbills that live near Etaambura
Boas’ primary mission on this trip was to initiate the new project called “Okamutenge”, the Otjiherero word for the small bag tied to the end of the stick that Ovahimba people carry when going on a journey. The Okamutenge Community Conservation Support project will assist the community game guards in doing regular anti-poaching patrols and community outreach visits.
“Now that the drought has broken, the conservancies can start rebuilding their wildlife populations – if they can ensure that poaching is kept to a minimum,” explains Boas. “Since the people living here have lost most of their livestock, the temptation to poach for meat is higher than ever.”
From the early days of the conservancy programme until today, the goal has been to stop poaching rather than catch poachers. This requires developing close relationships with the communities, creating awareness about the value of wildlife through tourism and hunting, and arresting perpetrators when necessary. Community game guards can do this work most effectively, since they know their area and are trusted by their people.
We accompanied Boas and Henry Tjambiru, the assistant lodge manager at Etaambura, to the Orupembe Conservancy office to meet with their game guards. Boas brought with him eight new pairs of boots and enough food for a 10-day foot patrol, marking the start of the Okamutenge project. He would deliver similar supplies to the Sanitatas Conservancy once we had left. If they secure more funding, their support will extend to Puros, Okonjombo and Marienfluss Conservancies.
During the meeting, he explained that Henry would provide transport into the area to be patrolled (either in Orupembe or Sanitatas), and the game guards would do the patrols and provide feedback. Boas would provide them with additional training before the first patrol to ensure they covered the ground efficiently and responded appropriately to suspected poaching incidents. The game guards were extremely grateful for the support, as their conservancy’s vehicle had broken down beyond repair; they had no other way of patrolling the far reaches of their large conservancy.
Hope for the future of Kunene
During our six-day trip into the Kunene, we drove through all of these conservancies and others around them. We saw giraffe and springbok herds throughout the landscape, and the elephants and OB the lion on the Hoanib River. We also encountered a gemsbok, zebra and ostriches (including one flock of young ones accompanied by three adults). Boas spotted a black rhino just before we joined him, even though we did not actively track rhinos.
A springbok herd in recovering veldWe encountered a flock of young ostriches with adults
A trip like this does not constitute a game count, but it is an indication of what tourists are likely to see on a Kunene Region expedition. “If we get another year or two of good or even average rains, we could recover our wildlife to near pre-drought levels,” says Boas. “We will need to look at strategically translocating some species into areas where they are currently depleted, but the most important thing we can do right now is to support the game guards and their conservancies.”
The wildlife in Kunene can rebound, provided that the conservancies keep functioning and everyone working in the region pulls in the same direction. Tourists visiting Kunene discover how communities are conserving this harsh, yet spectacular part of the planet – and in doing so are supporting their important work.
Western Namibia is a land of heat, sand, sea and remarkable biodiversity surviving against the backdrop of harsh but stunning scenery. Learn more about the land of ochre here
Gail is a conservation scientist who focuses on carnivore conservation and human-wildlife conflict.
She has a passion for creating public awareness of conservation through her popular writings. She has many years of field experience in Namibia , Botswana and South Africa working on human-carnivore conflict and wildlife monitoring projects.
* With thanks to Conservancy Safaris Namibia and Jamma Communities & Conservation for supporting this trip.
South Africa’s commercial captive lion breeding industry, a sector that has grown to encompass roughly 350 facilities holding nearly 8,000 lions, has long been a subject of debate. While proponents have claimed a role in conservation, new research presents a sobering challenge to this narrative, questioning whether the industry is in fact harming wild lion populations
Over the past three decades, a contentious industry has quietly been established in South Africa, steadily growing louder and more robust as it gained popularity. In the face of threats to wild lion populations, captive-lion breeding claimed to contribute to conservation.
Many claim captive lion breeding can reduce the pressure on wild lion populations by supplementing commercial demand for lions, their parts and derivatives. But there is also an alternative effect: captive-lion breeding can increase the demand for lions and their body parts, which essentially threatens wild populations.
A group of researchers from Blood Lions and World Animal Protection is attempting to put the debate to rest. Their latest research, including a systematic review titled Reviewing evidence for the impact of lion farming in South Africa on African wild lion populations, published in the journal Animals, highlights the urgent need for a shift in policy.
The comprehensive study entailed the review of 126 peer-reviewed articles and 37 public reports published between 2008 and 2023, in efforts to assess whether commercial captive lion breeding helps reduce pressure on wild lion populations.
The scale of the industry
South Africa’s commercial lion breeding industry has seen rapid growth since the 1990s, expanding to an estimated 7,838 captive lions, along with thousands of other big cats, across 342 commercial facilities for tourism, hunting and trade. To put this into perspective, in 2021, Four Paws estimated that the number of farmed lions in South Africa was four to five times larger than that of wild lions.
The captive lion industry primarily thrives on tourist entertainment like cub petting and walking with lions, as well as the commercial trade of lion body parts and derivatives.
Protecting wild range and behaviour is central. Evidence does not support captive breeding as a conservation tool
Investigating captive lion conservation claims
The central question investigated by the researchers was whether this commercial captive lion breeding provides a sustainable solution to reduce pressure on wild lion populations. Their comprehensive review yielded a concerning conclusion: there is currently no scientific evidence to substantiate the industry’s claims that commercial captive lion breeding protects wild lion populations.
On the contrary, the findings suggest that it may be driving demand for lion parts with potentially damaging consequences for the species in the wild. Dr. Angie Elwin, a contributing researcher and Head of Research at World Animal Protection, says, “Our review finds no clear evidence that South Africa’s captive lion breeding industry benefits wild lion populations.” Elwin continues, “…it could be doing harm by fuelling demand for lion parts. Given the precarious status of lions globally, any claims of conservation value should be treated with extreme caution. Lessons from tiger farming show that legal trade from captive animals has failed to protect wild populations and may even accelerate their decline. We risk repeating the same mistake with lions.”
A free-ranging pride takes a break on the plains. Continent-wide numbers are still on the decline
The evidence against captive lion breeding
The study evaluated the evidence against five key criteria to determine the potential benefits and threats of lion farming in a conservation context. Here’s what they found:
Cost-efficiency: Although captive hunts are generally cheaper than wild hunts, direct comparisons of overall profitability between wild and captive-sourced lion products are scarce. However, captive facilities boost profitability through diverse income streams, including selective breeding for rare traits like white lions and hosting paying international volunteers.
Genetic maintenance of captive populations: A significant knowledge gap exists regarding the genetic health and diversity of captive lion populations, primarily due to a lack of official records and comprehensive genetic analysis. While there’s limited evidence of wild lions being taken to stock captive facilities, the absence of a reliably maintained studbook system raises concerns.
Protection from criminal activity: The study revealed inadequate protection for wild populations from criminal activity linked to lion farm facilities. Evidence, though sporadic and often anecdotal, points to potential laundering of wild-sourced lion parts through captive facilities and a patchwork of inconsistent legislation across authorities. The direct link between lion farming and the poaching of wild lions remains largely unquantified.
Consumer preferences: While some captive-bred lion products, like those for trophy hunting, might be preferred for specific traits or guaranteed kills, the research indicates mixed preferences, with no clear evidence that farmed lion parts consistently substitute for wild ones. For traditional medicine, consumers often don’t distinguish between wild and captive sources, and lion bones are even passed off as tiger bones.
Market demand: The review suggests that rather than simply meeting existing demand, commercial captive breeding may actually be stimulating new demand. This includes the emergence of new markets, such as interactive tourism experiences (like cub petting) that create additional demand for breeding lions for revenue. Rising wholesale values for lion skeletons also point to increasing demand. The review notes that lion skeletons have historically been exported to East and Southeast Asia for traditional medicine markets; although the legal skeleton trade is currently halted following a 2019 court judgment, other legal and illegal channels persist, including trophies and live exports.
Current state of affairs
Importantly, the researchers note that South Africa’s wild lion populations are considered stable, due to intensive management on large protected areas and many smaller reserves. But continent-wide, lions remain Vulnerable and declining, with targeted poaching for body parts rising as an emerging threat.
One of the most damning results from the study was that researchers found insufficient data to effectively evaluate any purported conservation benefits of captive lion breeding. Instead, their analysis identified several “red flags” suggesting that lion farming could accelerate and facilitate commercial demand for lions and their body parts, potentially jeopardising wild populations. This contrasts with the 2018 assessment by the Scientific Authority of South Africa, which previously concluded that the export of captive-bred lion products did not negatively impact wild lion populations.
In July this year, Minister of Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment, Dr Dion George, announced the imminent publiction of the Lion Prohibition Notice, which will prohibit the establishment of new captive lion facilities for commercial purposes. However, there is still a long way to go before a full prohibition of the commercial breeding and keeping of captive lions.
The driving force: Demand for lion parts
The review highlighted that while trophy hunting of captive lions has seen a decrease following events like the US boycott after Cecil the lion’s shooting, a parallel surge in demand for lion bones from Southeast Asia has taken its place. These bones are often passed off as tiger bones for use in traditional Chinese medicine products like tiger cake, tiger wine, and other “tiger” derivatives. The staggering profit margins, with a 60-fold increase between the South African skeleton sale value and the end consumer price, incentivise this trade.
The research identified several “red flags”, suggesting that captive lion breeding may:
Accelerate and facilitate commercial demand for lions and their body parts;
Increase opportunities for laundering poached wildlife through legal commercial trade; and
Operate within a patchwork of contrasting legislation across various authorities, creating legal loopholes and making fraud difficult to monitor
A caged captive lion cub. The conservation value of breeding remains unproven
Beyond conservation: Animal welfare and public health risks in the captive lion industry
The concerns extend far beyond the conservation impact on wild lions. The High-Level Panel report, released as a part of the Draft policy position on the conservation and ecologically sustainable use of elephant, lion, leopard and rhinoceros in 2021, led to the government’s decision to ultimately close the industry. These findings outlined that the captive lion breeding industry:
Damages South Africa’s eco-tourism and conservation reputations;
Lacks necessary transformation;
Is widely accused of animal welfare neglect and abuse; and
Poses public health concerns, including the risk of diseases like tuberculosis being transported through wildlife products.
A call for urgent action
The research underscores the urgent need for a shift in policy. The researchers and contributing organisations are calling on the South African government to take critical next steps based on these findings. Dr. Louise de Waal, Director of Blood Lions, emphasises the need for global caution: “We need to err on the side of caution globally, but in particular in lion range states, to refrain from facilitating further emergence of commercial captive predator breeding and trade.”
She highlights that this is especially relevant given the increased wildlife trafficking opportunities between Africa and Southeast Asia, partly fuelled by the expansion of initiatives like the Belt and Road Initiative (a global infrastructure development strategy adopted by the government of China in 2013).
The new research adds significant weight to these arguments, urging the Department of Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment to take critical next steps: to impose an immediate moratorium on the breeding of lions in captivity and to develop a structured and time-bound phase-out plan for the broader commercial predator industry.
While wild lion populations in South Africa are currently considered unchanging, these research findings highlight the significant and potentially detrimental compounding effects on already vulnerable lion populations and other large felid species across their ranges. The industry’s lack of transparency, coupled with identified knowledge gaps in consumer preferences, supply-demand dynamics, economic comparisons, genetics, and the extent of illegal activities, further strengthens the call for a definitive end to commercial captive lion breeding.
A new survey sheds light on the state of the lion population in the north of Kruger, revealing trends that could shape future conservation efforts. Read more about Kruger’s lion population here
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
What started as a stressful discovery evolved into one of my best wild dog sightings ever.
Recently, I was in Botswana’s Okavango Delta with one of our Botswana safari experts, scouting for lodges that meet our expectations of outstanding, responsible safari experiences. On the game-drive transfer from the airstrip to our remote bushcamp, we stopped at an active wild dog den, to find, to our horror, that it had recently been under siege by lions trying to kill the pups. The den entrance was caved in, leaving a tiny gap, and the claw marks above the entrance bore testament to the lions’ huge efforts to get to the pups. That must have been terrifying for those pups!
We sat for a while and tried to figure out what had happened to the pups and adults. During our contemplations, we heard faint, plaintive whining from deep inside the burrow – evidence that at least one of the pups was still alive. But where were the adults? Had the alpha female been killed defending her pups, and where were the lions? So many questions. Not wanting to influence what was an ongoing natural event, we left the scene as the daylight faded and headed to our bushcamp to wait out the night before returning in the morning. It was a long night.
Soon after first light, after a scrumptious but hurried breakfast, we returned to the den to find that the entrance had been opened up, and a confusion of tiny footprints suggested that at least some of the pups had survived and been moved by the adults. These were tiny pups, still suckling, so they could not have gone far. And the threat of lions, leopards and hyenas was always there, as evidenced by the number of times we encountered them over the next few days as our guides, Dix and Chocolate, pieced together the puzzle.
They are local bushmen, born and brought up here, and they learned and honed their skills as subsistence hunters. Their tracking skills are off the charts, and their granular knowledge of the area is extraordinary. We followed many lines of spoor, investigated what we thought were ideal den locations and reacted to countless bush signals alerting us to nearby predators.
I can’t begin to describe the relief and euphoria when, after hearing a wild dog contact call, we also heard the squeals of tiny pups. We followed those clues to find the new den, secreted away in a termite mound hidden by tall grass. What followed was many hours immersed in wonderment and awe, observing these incredible predators care for their 12 precious bundles of joy.
We watched the alpha female feeding her ravenous brood, adults disciplining wandering pups, den excavations with sand flying everywhere, pack member greeting ceremonies as they returned from their wanderings and even a successful impala hunt by some of the pack as others remained to guard the den. A highlight for me was confirmation that wild dogs do use sneezing as a voting mechanism to get the resting pack to wake up and go hunting. If you have doubts, watch my video below for proof.
The impala hunt was a typical wild dog strategic manoeuvre, spreading out in a long line and padding silently through the woodlands before splitting into groups to target specific opportunities. We followed one splinter group, losing them a few times in the woodlands, before Dix and Chocolate cracked the code and got us to the scene just seconds after four dogs took down an impala. As usual for these efficient hunters, within seconds of the distress bleat at the moment of attack, the impala had been eviscerated, and the dogs were gulping down choice bits. Gory for sure, but this is real, wild Africa doing her thing. Again, we benefitted from deep bush skills demonstrated by our guides.
I have spent countless hours in the company of painted wolves, and these few days rank as amongst my best encounters ever. I will return.
Our choice of lodgings on this occasion was an intimate (4 tents | 8 guests) bushcamp on the shore of a permanent channel in the Okavango Delta. This camp is old-school; meaning the focus is on authenticity and comfort rather than ostentatious designer decor, rim-flow pools and imported chefs. Of course, there is room for all comfort levels in this wonderful industry, but on this occasion, less is more.
Speaking of returning, how about joining us in 2026 to this part of the Okavango Delta for a deeply immersive safari to search for wild dogs, leopards, lions and much more? Please book early to avoid disappointment – start the discussion.
Some moments in nature feel like a wink from the universe – little reminders that we share this planet with remarkable, unpredictable wildlife. Over the past 20 years, wild orcas have been documented offering humans food. Fish, stingrays, seaweed, even seabirds: all presented, sometimes repeatedly, as if waiting for us to take the bait. Are they trying to make friends, start a cross-species cultural exchange, or gently manipulate us into… something? No one’s sure. But one thing is clear: these intelligent, social giants are as curious about us as we are about them.
This week, we’re diving into more wonders: South Africa’s rare Barrydale redfin and why it matters for the health of our rivers, plus nine extraordinary African safaris – with water at their centre – that prove rivers and lakes are as thrilling as any game drive.
Enjoy exploring Africa with us!
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
9 WATER SAFARIS
Africa’s rivers, streams and lakes are her lifeblood. Here’s our list of some of our favourite water safaris on the continent
FRESHWATER CANARIES
Rare South African fish like the Barrydale redfin warn of our rivers’ decline – saving them means saving our freshwater lifelines
Travel Desk
TWO AFRICAN SAFARI IDEAS
Southern Africa mega safari – 19 days – from US$10,670pps
Be swept off your feet with wall-to-wall wildlife action on this iconic southern African safari. You’ll visit Greater Kruger to experience the Big 5 and rarer treasures. You’ll also visit South Africa’s mother city, Cape Town, and her winelands. Plus, you’ll experience the wilds of Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park in Botswana; and the majesty of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe – for a once-in-a-lifetime adventure.
Best of Malawi’s safari parks – 10 days – from US$4,680pps
The best-of-Malawi safari takes you to the Big 5 havens of Majete Wildlife Reserve, Liwonde National Park and the rugged wilderness of Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve. The three parks are managed by African Parks – a non-profit conservation organisation. These conservation success stories are what responsible travel is all about. Come and find out for yourself and make a real difference where it counts.
AG safari guests Jennifer and Tim from Switzerland went on a special mother-and-son safari to Zimbabwe and Botswana:
Unforgettable mother & son safari – How Africa Geographic & Stefan’s expert care guided us every step of the way: “Our journey began long before we set foot in Africa – with a simple online enquiry through Africa Geographic. Within seconds, I was contacted by Karen, who warmly invited me to chat about our hopes, preferences, and expectations… The very next morning, I received an email from Stefan, who would become our dedicated travel consultant for what would turn out to be the trip of a lifetime.
From that first message onward, everything flowed seamlessly. Stefan was thorough, responsive, and incredibly attentive. He answered every single question I had, no matter how detailed or specific, and remained kind, patient, and professional, never rushing me or pushing for decisions. We worked closely to craft our ideal itinerary, and I never felt anything less than fully supported. Naturally, I was a bit nervous when it came time to make the first payment… But Stefan’s transparent communication and genuine care gave me confidence and peace of mind. Even after our booking was finalised, Stefan stayed in touch over the months leading up to the trip, checking in and helping us feel prepared. And once the journey began, he continued to communicate throughout our travels, making sure everything was unfolding as planned…
I wholeheartedly recommend Africa Geographic to anyone considering an African adventure – no matter where in the world you’re starting from…. This was more than a vacation, it was a transformative journey. And Stef, from the bottom of our hearts: thank you.”
This short video offers a snapshot of Tsavo Trust’s work on the ground: protecting wildlife, supporting communities, and safeguarding Kenya’s iconic Tsavo ecosystem through aerial and ground operations, conservation partnerships, and sustainable development initiatives (06:11) Click here to watch
Every river has a character, and every waterway symbolises vitality. Life in Africa revolves around its rivers, streams and lakes, defining the essence of the wildernesses they flow through. A safari can be more than game drives, so why not opt for one of the continent’s numerous safaris on and around her waters, and explore Africa through its lifeblood?
Below is a list of our favourite iconic waterways that make for epic safaris.
Okavango Delta, Botswana: Water safaris by mokoro and boat
The swampy wildlife oasis of the Okavango Delta is one of the most extraordinary safari destinations in Africa, and a ride in a mokoro is an essential part of any exploration. These traditional dugout canoes cut silently through the wetlands’ many channels, propelled by expert guides’ poles. Aside from the peaceful immersion in one’s surroundings, this is the perfect way to encounter wildlife – from elephants to frogs and everything in between. In the deeper channels and lagoons, motorboat excursions open up even more of the delta, offering a different perspective and access to areas the mokoros cannot reach.
Glide by mokoro on the waters of the Okavango DeltaDeeper delta waters can be explored by motorised boat
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe and Zambia: Rafting on Batoka Gorge’s white waters
At Victoria Falls, the mighty Zambezi River plunges 100 metres off a basalt plateau before being forced through a narrow and twisting path of Batoka Gorge. The rapids below the falls are classified as Grade V and are widely acknowledged as offering some of the best white water rafting in the world.
Adrift on inflatable rafts, armed with just a plastic oar and a lifejacket, visitors throw themselves at the river’s mercy. Nothing is quite as humbling as experiencing the sheer power of a churning river (especially while underneath it). And after the rather steep climb out of the gorge on somewhat shaky legs, a sundowner imbibed looking out over the “smoke that thunders” is a must! This is one of the most epic water safaris you’ll ever experience.
Clouds of mist over the Smoke that ThundersWhite river rafting on Batoka Gorge, Victoria Falls
Jinja, Uganda: Kayak the Nile
The Nile River is the longest in the world, and its journey begins at the edge of Lake Victoria as it spills out of the lake into a series of plunging rapids. Not much compares to the thrill of riding the tumbling waves, pitting skill against the tremendous power of the torrent. And there are plenty of long flat stretches of calm water to steady the nerves, recover the muscles and marvel at the beauty of rural Uganda.
If this sounds too much (or perhaps when one’s shoulders and arms have had enough), opt for an ice-cold drink on a sedate sunset boat cruise.
The raging waters of the River NileAdrenaline junkies can Kayak the River Nile at Jinja
Mambili and Lokoué Rivers, Odzala-Kokoua NP, Congo-Brazzaville: River cruise through the Congo Basin
In the heart of the Congo Basin, the Mambili and Lokoué rivers weave through Odzala-Kokoua National Park’s lush rainforest, offering a water safari unlike any other. A river cruise here means gliding past forested banks alive with movement – from the flicker of colourful birds to the stealthy ripple of a slender-snouted crocodile. Keep watch for breaching tiger fish, shy sitatunga antelope, water monitors, and troops of agile and grey-cheeked mangabeys. If you’re lucky, you might even glimpse the elusive De Brazza’s monkey or a forest elephant pausing for a drink. These tranquil waterways not only connect remote lodges like Camp Imbalanga but also provide one of the best vantage points for spotting the park’s rich wildlife without disturbing it.
Boating the winding waters of the Congo BasinAG’s Simon Espley and Brendan Taylor enjoy a boat cruise on the Mambili RiverSpotting a slender-snouted crocodile basking on a branch
Chobe River, Botswana and Namibia: Cruise on a riverboat
The Chobe River is Africa’s elephant Eden, its lush floodplains and surroundings home to the world’s highest density of these magnificent pachyderms. This corner of the continent is renowned for its water safaris. Explore the various channels and side creeks or meander peacefully, watching elephants snorkel and wrestle in the water. From predator to prey, the abundance of life on display along the riverbanks tinges any voyage with more than a hint of excitement.
Spot Chobe’s abundant wildlife from a riverboatSunset over Chobe
Lake Tanganyika, Tanzania: Float or dive lazy waters
Only two parks in Tanzania offer chimpanzee trekking: Gombe Stream and Mahale Mountains National Parks, and both are found on the banks of Lake Tanganyika. The terrain of these parks is mountainous, and if the chimps are particularly capricious, a trek might entail several hours of strenuous hiking. As such, there is no doubt that the only way to celebrate a successful day is to leap with joy into the cool embrace of the clear waters of the world’s longest freshwater lake. Sandy beaches are perfect for lazing the days away or soaking up romantic sunsets. Or, to make the most of water safaris to Lake Tanganyika (which hosts over 350 fish species), explore the waters by diving, snorkelling or kayaking.
The peaceful waters of Lake Tanganyika, on the edge of Gombe and Mahale National ParkExplore the waters by kayaking, diving and snorkelling
Lake Kariba, Zimbabwe and Zambia: Explore vast shorelines
The fertile shores of Lake Kariba and its fresh waters attract diverse birdlife and wildlife, including elephants, buffalo and various antelopes. Keep an eye out for lions and leopards too. Lake Kariba’s water safaris can be enjoyed in simple pleasure or luxurious style. Dozens of lodges perched on the water’s edge allow you to awaken to the copper glow of the sun rising over the endless lake. Spend the day admiring the scenery or watching elephants browse the shoreline of Lake Kariba. And at the end of the day, the calm waters are the ideal place to admire the starlit skies. There are plenty of opportunities to explore the shorelines from the water, whether on a catamaran cruise, motorboat or even a houseboat. For a wilderness retreat on the shores of Lake Kariba, visit Matusadona National Park, which is easily combined with safaris to Hwange National Park for a truly epic African safari.
Elephants enjoying the deep waters of Lake Kariba, Matusadona National ParkWhere the lake meets luxury – tranquillity on the shores of Lake Kariba, with endless viewsCruise Lake Kariba’s shorelines on a catamaran cruise or motorboat
Lake Malawi, Malawi: Barefoot safaris
Lake Malawi offers a plethora of fun for every intrepid safari goer, from the super active to the deeply relaxed. Across the shoreline of Lake Malawi, tiny beach villages and lodges offer many opportunities to explore the waters – above or below the azure ripples. Boat trips provide the perfect vantage to appreciate the lake’s blazing sunsets. Snorkel or dive beneath the surface to take in the fishy kaleidoscope darting around the rocks in the shallows. Sailing and kayaking are at the top of the list for those eager to investigate the various bays and coves along the shoreline. And for beach lovers, there is ample opportunity to lounge along Lake Malawi’s sandy shores and breathe in the crystalline waters, drink in hand.
Barefoot bliss alongside Lake MalawiSoft sandy beaches overlooking endless waters
Lake Ihema, Akagera NP, Rwanda: Birding and big game safaris from the water
Bordered by papyrus swamps and dotted with islands, Lake Ihema – Rwanda’s second-largest lake – is a sanctuary for aquatic birds and a prime spot for relaxed game viewing. Boat cruises here are unhurried affairs on this vast lake in Akagera National Park, which features the Big 5. Drift past pods of hippos, enormous Nile crocodiles, and buffaloes grazing at the shoreline. The air rings with the calls of fish eagles, kingfishers, and hamerkops, and the keen-eyed may spot jacanas tiptoeing across lily pads or even a rare shoebill in the reeds. Morning, afternoon, and sunset departures each offer their own magic – from soft dawn light catching a heron’s wings to fiery skies reflected in still waters. It’s the perfect complement to a northern Akagera game drive, rounding out your wildlife checklist with sightings only possible from the lake’s calm surface.
Boat cruises on Lake Ihema are unhurried affairsSpotting hippos from the boatElephants dip and sip in Lake Ihema
From the Tradouw Redfin in Barrydale’s Huis River to the Clanwilliam Sandfish in the Olifants catchment, South Africa’s endemic freshwater fish are sounding an alarm. Their precarious survival is a measure of the health of our rivers – systems under pressure from invasive species, altered flows, and degraded habitats. Protecting these fish means protecting the lifeblood of the landscapes and communities that depend on them. Christy Bragg delves into the plight of South Africa’s freshwater fish
A flash of silver. A glimpse of a sliver of silver tail, and then it’s gone, back into the depths of the tannin-rich waters. The sight disarmed me – this was a very rare freshwater fish species – the Barrydale redfin (Pseudobarbus sp. ‘burchelli Tradouw’), also known as Breede redfin or Tradouw redfin. I was watching them slip between the foamy bubbles caused by the outpouring of a pipe set into the weir in the river. What is so special about a pipe in the weir? This little pipe is a clever solution to an age-old dilemma in water resource management: how do we share the water?
This tiny little fish, with red tips on its fins, is an endemic species. It only occurs in South Africa, and then only in the Breede River system. What’s more, this particular lineage is limited to little tributaries, most notably in isolated pools of the Huis River above Barrydale within the Tradouw catchment.
And in this space, the tiny fish occupies less than 40km² of habitat, making it highly vulnerable to environmental change. Its remaining waters are increasingly threatened by reduced flow from municipal abstraction, habitat degradation through bank alteration and vegetation loss, pollution, and the spread of invasive alien plants and fish. These pressures not only disrupt the natural seasonal flow patterns essential for the species’ breeding and feeding, but also degrade water quality and reduce refuges during dry periods. It is no wonder then that the Barrydale redfin is classified as Critically Endangered on the IUCN Red List.
Once, miners relied on the faintest signs of distress from canaries deep underground to warn of danger. Today, the Barrydale redfin plays a similar role in our freshwater systems – its struggle is a subtle but urgent signal of the troubles gathering in our rivers.
South Africas rivers are slowly filling up with pollution, from sewage to partially metabolised medications and hormones. Some of our rivers are drying up – becoming trickles of mud and alien weeds. Where rivers once carried the rhythms of native fish and invertebrates, invasive species have since unsettled and diminished their diversity. Our climates are getting hotter, and many rivers are drying more rapidly than the norm. But, the last scrappy shoals of indigenous fish are the signposts to our future. When our river ecosystems are damaged, the fish tell the tale.
What happens when the water stops flowing in our rivers? Water in rivers is like blood in veins – without blood, we shrivel up like a dried raisin, and we lose access to oxygen and nutrients. We need to keep a small amount of water flowing in the rivers to keep the ecosystem processes going – essential processes like flood retention, infiltration, dilution of hazardous substances, and resilience to droughts. Scientists refer to this minimum amount of water needed for habitat and human health as the ‘ecological reserve’. We also need this small amount of water in the rivers for the survival of rare and unique freshwater fish species.
The fish are flagships for the health of our rivers. The bad news is that indigenous freshwater fish are hanging onto existence by the tips of their fins.
Turning the tide for the Barrydale redfin
The journey to help the Barrydale redfin began with people who love fish – including from CapeNature, Endangered Wildlife Trust and the Freshwater Research Centre. This group of fish enthusiasts had been counting the redfin for years and had been worrying about how rapidly the population was declining.
Along with local communities and other conservation agencies interested in conserving these fish, the enthusiasts secured funding from donors, and took action to save the redfins living in the rivers of Barrydale in the Western Cape, South Africa. Thanks to the willingness of local authorities, communities, and the efforts of civil society organisations, farmers, engineers, and town residents, the project is tackling the redfin’s conservation on several fronts, combining ecological restoration with community-led water stewardship.
One issue was that 100% of the low flows in the Huis River running through Barrydale were being abstracted. After everyone had sucked up their portions of the water, there was very little water left. At least 10% flow would need to be re-allocated to the downstream ecosystem in order to restore redfin habitat. And so, one of the most innovative solutions to saving the fish came in the form of a little pipe: with project support, the municipality retrofitted a release valve on the weir, diverting water back to the river. This adjustable pipe allows a small flow into the river, just enough to keep pools in the river for redfin habitat.
If we are willing to share water with biodiversity, we all win. Protecting the fish means we need to manage our resources with wisdom and awareness, which leads to all-around sustainability.
Freshwater fish conservation: A model for healthy rivers
The Barrydale redfin project then spawned other projects that encourage treating our rivers with respect and gratitude. If you visit the Huis River today, you will notice the banks have been freshly planted with riverine plants, and you will hear the chainsaws cutting down alien invasive plants to keep the river healthy and flowing. There are monitoring gauges in the river to keep track of flow, and there are brave ideas about creating synergy between fish, water and people.
Translocating small Clanwilliam sandfish to allow them a chance to grow
Similarly, if you visit the beautiful Biedouw River Valley in the Olifants-Doring River catchment, you might come across a group of people holding big nets in the river. They are carefully catching baby Clanwilliam sandfish (Labeo seeberi). The sandfish is a beautiful fish with little whiskers and translucent golden scales. It used to be so abundant that locals reported whole rivers churned up and teeming with these fish during their spawning migrations. Not anymore.
The Clanwilliam sandfish faces unimaginable threats. Dams block their migratory paths and alien invasive fish prey on the sandfish fry (the baby sandfish). Dirty water released into the river pollutes its habitat, whilst at the same time, thirsty crops gulp down its water.
To aid in the conservation of the sandfish, fish conservationists, through the Saving Sandfish project, are catching small fish to relocate them to a safer area, where they can grow larger without being preyed upon by the largemouth bass that inhabit the rivers. When the fish have grown big enough, the conservationists release them back into their rivers to run the gauntlet of the alien invasive fish. It’s a small solution, but small ripples can spread far and wide. So far, the conservationists have released over 2,800 sandfish back into the rivers. These fish are being tracked and monitored, and the research shows that they are surviving and returning to the Biedouw to keep the circle of life going.
Clanwilliam sandfish
Expanding conservation beyond the redfin
In several countries, rivers have been recognised in law as having rights to their waters. Environmental advocates have successfully argued for legal personhood, enabling these rivers to be treated as living entities with the right to thrive and to have a voice in decisions that affect them. Yet, the health of these ecosystems is in serious decline. The IUCN estimates that a quarter of all freshwater species are now threatened with extinction, while a 2024 WWF report found that migratory fish populations have declined by an average of 81% since 1970.
Freshwater is an essential resource – vital to human societies and the species that depend on it. The warning signs from our rivers and wetlands are clear; safeguarding aquatic biodiversity is not optional but imperative.
Like canaries in a coal mine, the struggles of aquatic species signal deeper trouble in our freshwater systems – trouble that will touch us all if left unchecked.
Fight for the fynbos fish: Learn about the redfin minnow, the most widespread group of freshwater fishes in the Cape Floristic Region, and find out why these fish face a serious risk of extinction.
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
It’s been a harrowing week for my team.
Our reward for publishing facts about the trophy hunting of Blondie the Hwange lion has been a spate of malicious attacks, gaslighting and threats. These ugly missiles came from both extreme ends of the hate spectrum – pro- and anti-hunting – and often from private or fake social media accounts. All because we broke the news of Blondie’s death. We have been publishing factual articles since 1991, so we are used to the chaos when science clashes with beliefs. And yet this time, the volume and ugliness were staggering, even if from a tiny minority. On the bright side (there is always a bright side), we have exorcised our followers of these lowlifes. Believe what you want, but be nice. When in doubt, read our Rules of Engagement.
Our breaking news article was picked up by multiple international news media platforms, talking heads and tabloids, resulting in a snowball effect and amplified awareness. Unfortunately, some of these platforms resorted to factually bereft headlines and claims to gain attention. It is what it is.
Two things stood out to me during this process:
Anti-hunters accused us of giving tracking data from Blondie’s collar to hunters. Blondie was wearing a tracking collar sponsored by us. Blondie used to roam outside of the national park, and so was tracked by WildCRU (the Oxford University research team) to prevent human-wildlife conflict. To be clear, we do not have access to live data (and do not want it). We have received limited belated updates on the lions wearing AG-sponsored collars. And when probed for more detail on the trophy hunting of Blondie before we went live with the news, WildCRU met our requests with a deafening silence.
Pro-hunters accused us of claiming that the hunt was illegal, and compiled gaslighting opinion editorials based on that lie. Our actual wording was “sources say the hunt took place legally“ and nowhere in the article did we suggest otherwise. But of course, facts never get in the way of a diversionary tactic; a typical trophy hunting strategy when the spotlight shines on poor behaviour. To be clear, Blondie’s hunt was legal but deeply unethical; he was collared and was a young male with cubs. Zimbabwe’s adaptive, age-based hunting guideline recommends the hunting of lions over 6 years old, but a murky points and quota system means the hunting of lions under age 6 still takes place.
Why do we do this? Because we care. And we like to believe that you do too. And because, if we do not establish the facts and keep you informed, who will? Many of our tourism and conservation industry colleagues avoid difficult discussions like this. Thanks to the minority who do take the risk of nailing their colours to the mast – sincerely appreciated.
Most importantly, I am in awe of my team. Their hard work, passion and courage stand out in a sea of conservation mediocrity like dog’s balls on a canary.
Speaking of science and considered opinions, the Op Ed below by respected biologist and lion researcher Paul Funston will ruffle a few feathers. Well done, Paul, on daring to go against the flow with some inconvenient truths! Our second story is about walking safaris – safari soulfood. We delve into 11 epic options for those who prefer a more immersive African holiday.
Thanks for taking up precious time to read this, and for supporting our cause by choosing Africa Geographic as your safari company.
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
LION TROPHY HUNTING
Dr Paul Funston unpacks the scientific and ethical failures of lion trophy hunting policies – and the deadly cost to iconic pride males
WALKING SAFARIS
Walking in the bushveld with an experienced guide is a great way to learn about the detail of nature. Here are 11 top walking safaris
Travel Desk
TWO AFRICAN SAFARI IDEAS
Habituated lowland gorilla trekking in Odzala-Kokoua – 8 days – from US$13,980pps
Trek for an up-close encounter of habituated western lowland gorillas on this eight-day safari. Find the hidden wildlife on guided baï and rainforest walks. Take a river cruise or go on a kayak safari down Lekolo River and experience the wealth of life living in and on the shores of these waterways. This safari will leave you spellbound and with unforgettable memories to take home.
Maasai Mara specialist photographic safari, Kenya – 9 days – from US$7,605pps
Fancy a guided photographic safari in Kenya’s Maasai Mara? Join award-winning photographer Arnfinn Johansen on this exclusive safari for four guests. Highlights include guided game drives with an experienced Maasai guide in a modified photographic vehicle and accommodation at Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp. Departure Dates: 24 October–1 November 2025. Only 1 space left!
Your AG safari just helped save Tsavo’s tuskers, South Africa’s pangolins and Africa’s birds of prey.
Thanks to your safari booking with Africa Geographic, you have made a real difference. We’ve just donated a portion of our safari earnings to some incredible conservation projects: Tsavo Trust’s big tusker project, Provet and the Limpopo Pangolin Collective, and the Endangered Wildlife Trust’s Birds of Prey Programme.
When you travel with AG, you do more than explore Africa’s wild places – you help protect them. A portion of every AG safari booking goes directly to vital conservation projects like these. Because of your decision, these key species remain protected.
Ready to plan your next life-changing safari?
Let us craft your dream journey – and know that your adventure supports the creatures that need it most. Check out some of our safari ideas here.
Blondie, a well-known, young, collared pride male in Zimbabwe’s Hwange region, was recently trophy hunted after reportedly being lured with bait. His death has sparked global outrage and raised urgent questions about lion conservation. Watch the video to learn more about this unfolding story. (03:50) Click here to watch
Africa, the untamed continent, beckons adventurers with its extraordinary wilderness spaces and unique wildlife. There are many ways to explore its wonders, but none is more immersive and intimate than what is offered on walking safaris. On foot, the sudden amplification of sound, smell, touch and adrenaline creates a profound sense of connection to nature that has been all but lost in our frenetic, modern lives.
Options for walking adventures when on an African safari vary. There’s something on offer for all adventurers: from a morning or afternoon stroll while staying at a lodge, to a fully fledged walking safari taking place over a few days, where you have the option to sleep out in basic tents. We’ve included various options below, covering the best of all there is on offer.
So, lace up a sturdy pair of walking shoes and prepare to ignite your wanderlust with our 11 favourite African walking safari destinations….
Often referred to as the home of walking safaris, Zambia’s Luangwa Valley is a playground for visitors seeking an authentic and unspoilt wilderness. Here, generations of expert guides have followed in the bootprints of Norman Carr to conserve the tradition of exceptional on-foot experiences. Stride over sandy riverbeds, navigate oxbow lakes and discover riverine forests, all the while observing the rich diversity of life (from dung beetles to elephants!) in Luangwa. Check out safaris in South Luangwa here.
Walking safaris in South Luangwa offer an authentic wilderness experienceThe incredible thrill of spotting wild dogs on foot in South Luangwa
Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe
Mana Pools National Park is one of Zimbabwe’s most breathtaking protected areas, known for its picturesque Zambezi River floodplains, ethereal Ana tree groves and abundant wildlife. From African wild dogs (painted wolves) and towering elephant bulls to massive herds of thirst-driven buffalo and the lions that stalk them, Mana is a land designed to be explored up close and personal. It is also one of the few national parks where travellers can walk without a guide. Zimbabwe is also home to some of the best (and, in some cases, eccentric) walking guides in Africa, and securing their services is guaranteed to bring out the best in your African safari. Check out our safaris in Mana Pools here.
Adventurous travellers will find in-your-face wildlife drama on a Mana Pools walking safari
Alternatively, if you are looking for a truly wild walking experience, where you’ll camp in a remote spot with limited facilities, and have daily encounters with wild animals, then Chitake Springs offers just the ticket. Chitake Springs is a remote area in the southern reaches of Mana Pools, away from the Zambezi River. The campsite, used for walking safaris, is based at the only available water source in this part of the park – a magnet for wildlife. Find out more about safaris to Chitake Springs here.
Enjoying an early morning coffee before the day’s adventures at Chitake SpringsHeading out for the day’s adventures at Chitake Springs
Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda
Trekking for mountain gorillas is a walking safari of a very different kind – one that many have described as a profound and spiritual experience. The fern-fringed, muddy paths of the fairy-tale Bwindi Impenetrable Forest are verdant and bursting with secret sounds. While finding the gorilla families may take several hours of hiking, the reward at the end is the chance to go eye-to-eye with our endangered and sentient relatives. Observe their intricate social interactions, marvel at their human expressions, and be moved by the simple presence of these extraordinary creatures. Browse our safaris to Bwindi here.
Traverse Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in search of mountain gorillas
Akagera National Park, Rwanda
Akagera National Park is Rwanda’s only Big 5 reserve and has fast become one of Africa’s most exciting safari destinations. A standout experience here is the opportunity to traverse a northern area of the park on foot with expert rangers while tracking white rhinos: a rare and thrilling chance to connect with these endangered giants up close. Check out our safaris to Akagera here.
Spot Akagera’s white rhinos on foot
Okavango Delta, Botswana
The swampy oasis of the Okavango Delta in Botswana is undoubtedly one of the most extraordinary wildlife destinations in Africa, which, by extension, makes it one of the best places to traverse on foot. Marvel at the Delta’s labyrinthine channels and vast floodplains as you tread softly through the wilderness in the company of the highly skilled guides who know the secrets of this waterlogged paradise. Your walking safari will likely also involve time in a mokoro – gliding silently along the water channels as your expert poler reveals this water wonderland to you. We have several safaris to the Okavango Delta – see more here.
Tread lightly through the Delta to experience incredible wildlife on foot
Tsavo East and West National Parks, Kenya
The rugged beauty of the vast Tsavo landscape is filled with the ancient magic of true wilderness, and walking here is akin to escaping to a bygone era. This is a land of legends, where many of Africa’s largest remaining tuskers roam, their thick skins shaded rust by the region’s famous red soils. From open savannahs and massive river systems to lava fields and woodlands, experienced guides will lead you in the search for giant elephants, maneless lions, gerenuk, fringe-eared oryx and even critically endangered hirola antelope. See our safaris to Tsavo National Park here.
Follow in the footsteps of legendary tuskers in Tsavo
Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
The Serengeti is synonymous with Africa’s Great Wildebeest Migration – the Greatest Show on Earth. Still, few realise its vast plains can be explored on foot, granting unique privacy even in the busiest tourist months. Imagine embarking on a journey in the company of Maasai guides eager to share their intimate knowledge of their wilderness heritage. Witness the awe-inspiring landscapes, spot lions lazing under acacia trees, and feel the thrill of being surrounded by hundreds of thousands of wildebeest and zebras on one of Africa’s most immersive walking safaris. Peruse our safaris to the Serengeti here.
Just under 100km away, the diverse and wildlife-rich Ngorongoro Conservation Area also provides explorers an opportunity to walk in the largest unbroken caldera in the world, explore extinct volcanoes, and meet Maasai herders along the way
Walk across the vast Serengeti plains to get up close to the migration action
Gonarezhou National Park, Zimbabwe
Zimbabwe’s Gonarezhou National Park is perhaps one of the country’s best-kept African safari secrets but for an ardent following of experienced travellers drawn to the park’s remote and rugged appeal. The iconic Chilojo Cliffs are perhaps Gonarezhou’s most famous feature. However, the ancient baobabs, thriving elephant herds and jaw-dropping vistas all contribute to securing the park as an exceptional walking safari destination.
Exploring Gonarezhou’s land of red cliffs and elephants on foot is an immersive experience
Laikipia County, Kenya
The mantra of the private conservancy experience in Kenya is one of exclusivity and freedom, and nowhere is this better epitomised than the mosaic landscapes of Laikipia County. Here, the low-density, high-quality approach allows travellers to customise their experience in a truly unique manner. Going on at least one walk is a given. Still, the full experience can even include accompanying ecological teams into the field to aid in monitoring endangered species, tracking lions, or even walking with baboon troops. With each step, you become a part of this remarkable landscape, forging a meaningful connection with the wilderness and creating memories that will last a lifetime.
Enjoy true freedom and experience conservation up close in Laikipia
Greater Kruger, South Africa
The private reserves bordering South Africa’s world-famous Kruger National Park offer the chance to leave the confines of a vehicle behind and set out on foot, led by experienced trackers and armed rangers. Stroll along ancient animal trails, learn about the region’s fascinating flora, and come face-to-face with some of the region’s Big 5 residents. Check out our safaris to Greater Kruger here.
A walking safari in Kruger takes adventurers deep into the middle of Big-5 country
Skeleton Coast National Park, Namibia
In the desolate beauty of Namibia’s Skeleton Coast National Park, embark on a unique walking safari that combines rugged landscapes with fascinating wildlife encounters. Traverse the vast dunes and arid plains, where desert-adapted elephants roam, lions hunt in the shifting sands, and seals frolic along the coastline. This untamed wilderness showcases the astonishing resilience of life in the most extreme of environments. Check out spots to stay in and around the Skeleton Coast here.
Explore the land of endless dunes, desert lions and arid plains on foot along Namibia’s Skeleton Coast
And on that footnote
From the sweeping plains and savannahs to the remote reaches of the coastlines and dense forests, Africa’s walking safari destinations offer an intimate connection with nature that few other experiences can match. Whether you seek the thrill of encountering iconic wildlife, the tranquillity of walking through pristine landscapes, or the chance to recentre your soul, it’s time to open your senses to the wild beauty of Africa.
A rugged sleep out while on a primitive walking safari
Author: Dr Paul Funston – African Lion Conservation
Across Africa’s protected areas, lion trophy hunting remains a highly contentious issue – especially when young, iconic pride leaders are killed under the guise of sustainability. Policies like the widely adopted “Six-Year Rule” are meant to regulate this practice, but critics argue that they’re outdated, misapplied, and biologically flawed. In this searing opinion piece, leading lion conservationist Dr Paul Funston draws from decades of fieldwork and research to unpack how current regulations are failing lion populations – and why meaningful reform is urgently needed.
The issue of hunting underage and iconic lions around Africa’s protected areas is a longstanding problem. Personally, I am sick of it. The injustice, the spin, the intransigence, the occasionally poor conduct by the hunting fraternity, and even poorer governance by statutory authorities.
Seeking solutions to the age issue in their Letters to Nature paper in 2004, Karyl Whitman, Craig Packer and others, focusing on the Serengeti lion population, suggested that lion populations could remain stable if only male lions of six years or older were trophy hunted.
This led to the suggestion of a six-year age threshold or “Six-Year Rule” as an acceptable standard for lion trophy hunting. It was widely supported by conservation scientists as sustainable. I was not convinced. The model did not consider whether the hunted males had cubs, their notoriety, or the current effects on lion populations by other causes of lion mortality. Bottom line: it was just a mathematical model with significant caveats.
Chief amongst these is that the Serengeti is not the typical African savannah, with the model not taking account of biological differences across the lion range. Nor did it account for other sources of human-induced lion mortality, such as poaching, persecution, and the effects of habitat encroachment. All of which are significant causes of lion mortality and population decline in virtually every lion population in Africa.
African governments that conserve and hunt lions were thrilled; the “Six-Year Rule” allowed minor amendments to their lion trophy hunting. Amendments that quelled the queries being raised by CITES, the United States Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS) and other international bodies governing trophy importation.
Mopane, a pride male who was killed in a trophy hunt, striding over his territory in the East of Hwange
The era of the “Six Year Rule” legitimising hunting very young male lions had well and truly arrived. Well-meaning scientists had given African governments an easy way out of their problems.
It took twelve years for new research to emerge suggesting that the “Six-Year Rule” was inadequate. This research was done in a more typical savannah woodland system in South Luangwa National Park in Zambia. Here, as with most other areas, lions were trophy hunted, poached, persecuted and exposed to habitat encroachment and were in decline.
However, these recommendations still did not account for familial ties of the lions, nor their notoriety. These were recommendations not at the individual level, but rather at the population level. Again, it was purely mathematical, predicting the impact of removing male lions of a certain age from a lion population.
It was, however, far more sensitive to lion populations and offered a much better alternative. Thus far, however, it has been ignored by all range states hunting lions, most lion conservationists, as well as regulating bodies such as CITES, USFWS, etc.
The model assumes all males above a certain age would be removed and examines the effects on the lion population. Although this seems unrealistic, in most African hunting blocks, it is likely that all male lions above a certain age could potentially be hunted each year. Such is the demand to hunt wild African lions, and so high are the typical quotas.
Entering the fray in Zimbabwe
When I started working on trophy hunting issues in Zimbabwe in 2012, it was common practice for hunters to shoot lions as young as two to four years old. Lions of five, six or older were by far the minority in the annual harvest. I have examined the photos of many hundreds of trophy-hunted lions since then, to assess their age. It’s a task I don’t like! Notwithstanding my feelings, since Zimbabwe implemented an age-based hunting system in 2013, the hunters have steadily increased the age at which lions are harvested, but not by enough.
Lion SOAfM2 of the Somadada pride was bow hunted in the Gwaai ICA in 2018 at the age of 2.5 years old
There’s currently a pause – an intransigence – to adapt the existing “Six Year Rule” to integrate the more recent scientific findings from Zambia, the “Greater-Than-Seven-Year Rule”. A situation which is reflected in all range states that hunt lions. They were quick to improve in the mid-2000s, but have not kept up with new evidence. This is because CITES, USFWS and other importing nations are content with the “Six Year Rule”, and the African range states vehemently push this, making inaccurate claims that they are using the “best available science”.
The governing bodies are permitting the hunting of lions who have seldom been successful fathers. It’s completely unacceptable. African range states and international governing bodies have failed to look after lion populations, ignoring new scientific findings.
Lions like Blondie – a father of ten young cubs – are killed as a result. It’s legal and supported by the authorities.
Blondie the lion was trophy hunted at the age of 5 years and 3 months
Each country has slightly different regulations, but all the major lion hunting countries – Tanzania, Mozambique, Zimbabwe and Zambia – apply some version of the outdated “Six Year Rule”. The best would seem to be Niassa National Reserve in Northern Mozambique, where lions must be over six years old to be considered for a reasonable quota, effectively making the minimum age of seven years old. In Tanzania, the rule is six years old, and the same applies to Zambia.
However, in Zimbabwe, the legal limit is five, which is not old enough! How can the legal age for hunting a lion in Zimbabwe be five? At times, this would mean male lions being hunted that have never even sired cubs, let alone raised them to dispersal age.
Zimbabwe has a bizarre version of the “Six-Year Rule”. In Zimbabwe, if a hunting outfitter, with a quota of two male lions, hunts two lions, six-year-old or older males, he is rewarded with an additional lion on quota the following year. However, if a five-year-old lion is hunted, the quota remains unchanged. Unchanged for hunting a male lion barely old enough to breed!
The quota is only suspended if a lion under four years old is hunted.
This is why shooting Blondie was legal. It’s got nothing to do with whether or not he was baited, collared, etc. Five years old = fair game.
It happens all the time. In 2017, hunters lured a male lion, Sinangeni, across the infamous railway line that separates Hwange National Park from hunting blocks and shot him at only three and a half years old. Sinangeni had formed a coalition with the son of Cecil, Xanda, a magnificent lion just going on six years old.
Cecil, the regal lion of Hwange, who ruled over the Ngweshla area of Hwange, was trophy hunted in 2015 – causing an international outcry
Xanda and Sinangeni were fathers to cubs in two prides of lions. Undeterred by killing the underage Sinangeni, the hunters soon killed Xanda, barely two years after his famous father had been killed. The cubs of their pride never stood a chance. They vanished, along with the hopes for Cecil’s lineage that flowed through Xanda.
The consequence? The hunting outfitter’s quota was reduced from two to one.
Basically, in Zimbabwe, hunters can kill whichever lion they like with no or minimal sanction. In my experience in the country, many hunting outfitters are willing to operate within the rules set by the government. But there are some rogue operators who consistently hunt underage lions who secure their permits and permissions through political connections. These operators cast a bad light on those professional hunters who stick to the rules set by the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority (ZPWMA).
I was present in Harare in a key workshop in 2013 with ZPWMA when a fellow scientist, overly sensitive to their fellow Zimbabwean trophy hunter friends, pushed this rule to the point of implementation. It was implemented to “accommodate” Zimbabwean trophy hunting operators not willing to change practice significantly, and to protect revenue streams for the government.
It was a poor decision, and it’s still in place more than a decade later. No matter my pleas as a leading lion scientist to have it changed. No matter how many Xandas and Blondies are killed. The safari operators and the government largely seem to be indifferent. The broader society protests, the more entrenched they become. It’s all about making money as close to the skin as possible; it’s not about population persistence and viability.
An image posted of Blondie’s trophy hunted body on social media. The image has since been removed
The reason for the poor use of the “Six-Year Rule” in Zimbabwe is that, in the findings of Whitman and Packer’s 2004 study, it was suggested that hunting all six-year-olds and five-year-olds would only slightly reduce the lion population, not causing a significant decline.
Trophy hunters managed to get away with this interpretation when authorities introduced the new lion hunting rules in 2013. This was a misuse of the scientific input of myself and others, and has continued to fool CITES, USFWS, and others that lions are sustainably hunted in Zimbabwe.
Many researchers know this. But they don’t oppose it. Every year, GPS-collared lions are killed by hunters. Researchers state that GPS-collars are not there to protect lions from being hunted, but simply to include information on research databases. Fine, but then use the data to contribute to research.
Just how long does research need to continue, when there are already existing findings that can be used to contradict Zimbabwe’s reasoning for the “Six Year Rule”? Being a conservation scientist today requires more than just publishing papers in a country miles away from the reality on the ground. Hwange is not just a research laboratory for endless research and camera trap surveys; it is a conservation landscape needing input and guidance.
Blondie photographed in April
Seven years old – a bare minimum for lion trophy hunting
The difficulty in accurately determining a lion’s age in the field complicates the issue further. The recommendation is that any hunted lion should be at least seven years old or older (Creel et al. 2016). Thus, in my book, there should be an “Eight-Year Rule”.
This is supported by Jennifer Miller, myself, and several other scientists who reported in Biological Conservation in 2016 that seven years, or ideally older, was the minimum age at which the juncture was estimated. We found that five- and six-year-old lions could not be reliably told apart.
Thus, both key scientific advances in 2016 have been ignored by Zimbabwe and the other range states that hunt lions. The flawed “Six-Year Rule” remains in place two decades later, unchallenged by WildCRU and Panthera (who both engage in lion conservation activities in Hwange, such as the mitigation of human-wildlife conflict between lions and communities), CITES, USFWS, and others. Zimbabwe has been given a free pass to hunt underage lions.
ZPWMA faces a significant challenge. They are mandated to generate income from wildlife, including through trophy hunting, to support protected area management. Trophy hunting is a substantial source of revenue outside of Zimbabwe’s national parks. ZPWMA have little to no choice but to allow hunting, to contribute to the management of parks and other wildlife estates.
Trophy hunting outfitters, driven by their need to earn a living, naturally benefit from and encourage this relationship. The Zimbabwean government sees no issue with this arrangement. They find it acceptable to have photographic tourism in some areas and sustainable hunting in others. It’s been that way ever since parks were established under British rule from the 1920s to the 1940s. The modern, independent government has not reviewed or altered these policies in any significant way.
The practice of trophy hunting occurs throughout the hunting season every year, with about 30 wild lions hunted annually across Zimbabwe, most of which are six years old, and some are older than that. At a broader level, this is considered sustainable.
Notoriety – Trophy hunting of iconic lions
However, even the “Eight-Year Rule” presents a conundrum: if all lions above a certain age are hunted, and even if this is biologically sustainable, does it then mean every lion above that age is fair game?
Controversy inevitably arises when well-known lions, like Blondie, Cecil, Humba, Netsai, etc. are hunted. These lions, often seen as iconic and beloved, spark public outcry, mainly when they are hunted near areas that are also used for photographic tourism. This creates a significant problem as these lions are not just animals; they are seen as essential members of their ecosystems and our broader societal community.
Thus, the issue extends beyond just age. Lions that have gained iconic status, regardless of their age or whether they have cubs or not, are treasured by society. The broader public will never view their hunting as a legitimate or “sustainable” practice. No matter whether supported scientifically or not.
This sentiment was evident in the reactions to the deaths of lions like Cecil, Humba, and Netsai, who, despite having fulfilled their biological roles, siring countless cubs, were mourned when hunted.
Humba and Netsai were brothers of the Nora pride. Both were trophy hunted
Blondie, by comparison, has not fathered any cubs to dispersal age – his cubs are still young.
The Zimbabwean government faces a complex situation. They need to balance the interests of safari hunters and photographic tourism operators, who often clash, especially near the borders of national parks such as Hwange. This conflict damages Zimbabwe’s image and reputation for wildlife conservation and must be addressed.
A potential solution could involve a new system where, once a lion is deemed to be iconic, it becomes untouchable, protected from hunting regardless of its age. In this system, unknown male lions above seven years of age are hunted without sanction on quota. This approach could alleviate much of the controversy surrounding lion hunting in Zimbabwe.
In conclusion, the Zimbabwean government must revise its policies based on scientific evidence, adjust the age threshold for hunting, and find a way to protect iconic lions. These steps are essential to resolving the ongoing conflicts and improving the management of the country’s wildlife resources.
The question though remains, can “we” – perhaps those of you who read this article – live with a system in countries like Zimbabwe, Zambia, Tanzania and Mozambique, and potentially Botswana, where lions in hunting blocks of seven years of age or older are hunted sustainably interspersed with years of no hunting, and where a select few agreed-upon lions are classified as iconic – therefore are not trophy hunted, ever?
This is a higher-level question – is lion trophy hunting legitimate at all? If the answer to this is “no”, then a lot of thinking and many challenges await. It’s time we decided – is it the famous lions we care so much about, or all lions? What are the real costs and benefits?
Dr Paul Funston is a leading African conservationist with over 30 years of experience dedicated to the protection of lions. He holds a PhD in Zoology from the University of Pretoria, where he studied lion population dynamics and behaviour in Kruger National Park. Paul is a recognised authority on predator-prey relationships, habitat connectivity, and sustainable lion conservation.
He has led major conservation initiatives across Africa – including in KAZA, East, West, and Southern Africa – focusing on protected area expansion, community-based coexistence programmes, and predator-prey recovery policy. His work includes developing lion-proof livestock enclosures, training postgraduates, and mentoring young conservationists in lion monitoring.
As Director of African Lion Conservation (PTY) LTD, Paul consults with governments, NGOs, and reserves to shape predator management strategies and support habitat restoration. A wildlife photographer and specialist safari guide, he uses his fieldwork to inspire global audiences and drive impact. His life’s work ensures Africa’s lions continue to thrive in the wild.
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Bonobos challenge power norms + secret safari season + epic Lake Malawi safari
Did you know that the actual prime safari season is not the crowded months of July and August? That busy period is largely a function of the extended northern hemisphere summer break. Sure, wildlife activity in those months is good, often excellent, but the subsequent months hold richer rewards usually enjoyed by fewer travellers with good safari advice.
For example, in Southern Africa, the months of September to mid-November offer sightings that are often off-the-charts. The dry season is peaking and the first rains have not yet arrived. Access to water and food is limited and sightings are predictable. These are warm months, especially October and November which can be very hot, which keeps the less intrepid away, but for those seeking safari nirvana, these are superb months. And prices have usually come off the busy season highs. Even the popular Mara River crossings extend into mid October in most years …
Africa is a huge, complex continent, with regional and seasonal variances added to the longer cycles of boom and bust that nature uses to drive evolutionary change. No matter which time of year you travel, there is always something going on that will blow your mind and remind you that we are mere passengers on Good Ship Earth. Ask us, we live here.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
It’s a joy to share good news that celebrates Africa’s wild places. Maputo National Park has just been named Mozambique’s first natural World Heritage Site: a recognition of its glow-up from depleted wilderness to thriving sanctuary. Here you’ll find nesting turtles, roaming elephants, undisturbed coral reefs and extraordinary mangrove forests – making this a conservation win worth celebrating. We’ll soon share a full guide to exploring this extraordinary park where wildlife thrives, communities benefit, and tourism makes a real impact.
In the meantime, don’t miss our guide to another unique Mozambican protected area, Limpopo National Park, below. Plus, we examine how female bonobos are flipping the script on power politics in our Decoding Science story.
Enjoy exploring Africa with us!
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Whether you are a passionate beginner or a seasoned creator, this unique art safari offers the chance to hone your skills with professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls. Soak up the atmosphere of the Big-5 Timbavati Private Nature Reserve in the Greater Kruger, South Africa and channel it into artistry! 06–12 September 2026 – only 3 spots left!
Explore the majesty of the mighty Zambezi River and Victoria Falls, and then head into the heart of the raw wilderness of South Luangwa National Park, Zambia – the birthplace of walking safaris and one of Africa’s leopard hotspots. Your last stop is Nankoma Island on Lake Malawi, where you’ll enjoy sun-soaked adventure and ultimate relaxation.
AG safari guest, Anni from South Africa, went on a solo safari to Botswana. Here is what she had to say about her experience:
Magical Mashatu. “Mashatu Tented Camp was exactly what mysoul needed. Remote, small, not too many people. Only canvas between me and nature, yet comfortable. Every night I heard hyenas, jackals and at times lions calling. I knew I was truly in the wild. I saw leopards, lions, cheetahs, loads of elephants, and so much more. I could not have asked for more. The guides had amazing bush skills, and the staff was very accommodating. Other guests in the camp were great company for a solo traveller. My trip was unforgettable, and a huge thank you goes to Christian Boix and the Africa Geographic team for a very well-organised trip.”
WATCH:
From elephant hunter to devoted guardian: Ndondondo Bienvenu now protects Chinko’s last elephants. Witness his powerful transformation and the revival of this Central African Republic wilderness once on the brink. (06:31) Click here to watch
Tucked between the iconic Kruger National Park and the Limpopo River lies a vast, untamed wilderness few have explored. Limpopo National Park in Mozambique, part of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park (GLTP), offers remote 4×4 adventures, immersive community encounters, and a slower, wilder safari experience. This is where nature returns on its terms – and travellers are invited to be part of that story.
Centrally located in the spectacular landscapes of Southern Africa’s Lowveld, Limpopo National Park offers a serene wilderness escape. Framed by the rugged Lebombo Mountains to the west and bordered by the world-renowned Kruger National Park, this remote Mozambican sanctuary is laced with scenic rivers – the Olifants in the south, the Shingwedzi through its heart, and the great Limpopo to the east, from which the park takes its name.
Established in 2001, Limpopo National Park – also known as Parque Nacional do Limpopo – was founded with a vision: to conserve biodiversity, uplift rural communities, and nurture eco-tourism in a historically marginalised region. The park spans a vast 1.1 million hectares (11,000km2) of unspoiled wilderness and natural beauty.
Three major rivers flow through the park: the Olifants in the south, the Shingwedzi through its heart, and the great Limpopo to the east
The park is co-managed by the Mozambican government and the Peace Parks Foundation. The park is part of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area (GLTFCA) and aims to restore wildlife migration routes and promote sustainable tourism. The Peace Parks Foundation has been involved in the park’s development since 2001, with a focus on infrastructure, community support, and conservation.
At the centre of this conservation vision is the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park (GLTP) – a cross-border initiative that links key protected areas across Mozambique, South Africa, and Zimbabwe. Once fully realised, this area will connect iconic conservation regions, including Kruger, Limpopo, and Gonarezhou National Parks.
Visiting Limpopo National Park is more than just a nature getaway – it’s a chance to support and witness a visionary conservation journey.
Admiring the dry Shingwedzi riverbed
Landscape and ecology of Limpopo NP
Limpopo National Park’s landscape is a patchwork of ecological features. From the jagged Lebombo Mountains to lush riverine forests along the Limpopo, the park reveals a striking range of ecosystems.
Although the region is dry, with an average annual rainfall of 550 mm, its rivers, when flowing, are lifelines. During the summer rains, these watercourses draw wildlife in droves, offering vibrant, seasonal wildlife spectacles.
The park’s ten identified landscapes offer ecological diversity, with five dominating most of the terrain. Among these, the Nwambiya Sandveld is particularly important – a habitat rarely found in neighbouring Kruger and home to rare and endangered flora.
A quintessential sight in the park – an iconic baobab tree
The mopane shrubland, dominated by the hardy mopane tree, may seem less promising for game viewing, but it supports a surprising diversity of mammals, birds, reptiles, and invertebrates.
The Lebombo Mountains and hilly granite plateaus along the park’s western edges bring rocky drama and scenic views, while the striking Shingwedzi Cliffs rise above the river, offering epic lookouts.
Grassy floodplains trace the rivers, while mixed woodlands cloak the rocky hills of the Lebombo. There is also a narrow belt of riverine woodland along major watercourses – a corridor teeming with life rarely seen in other parts of the park.
The Massingir Dam is a prominent feature that plays a significant role in the park’s ecosystem and local communities. It’s the second-largest reservoir in Mozambique, situated on the Olifants River.
These varied habitats bring scenic immersion and incredible wildlife encounters.
Massingir Dam
Limpopo NP’s tourist attractions
Limpopo National Park is far more than a stopover between South Africa and Mozambique – it’s a destination in its own right. Wildlife sightings here may be less prolific than in Kruger, but the park’s remote serenity is part of its allure. With sections of the border fence removed, wildlife is returning naturally.
For intrepid travellers, the 4×4 self-drive route is a must. Navigate the park’s rugged terrain between Pafuri, Mapai, Giriyondo, and Massingir, camping at designated sites along the way. Don’t miss the dramatic Shingwedzi Cliffs.
Cultural immersion is another highlight. Seven villages remain within the park’s boundaries, offering visitors insight into local community traditions. As the park undergoes development, a voluntary resettlement program led by the Mozambican government aims to balance human presence with wildlife conservation. The project has relocated four villages to three development nodes, providing safe housing, access to clean water, fertile agricultural land, and services such as schooling and health care.
There are seven villages in the park
Currently, a few guided activities are on offer. Paddle the Rio Elefantes on a three-day canoe trail, camping along the banks. Some visitors opt for the five-day Elefantes Gorge Backpacking and Fishing Trail for a blend of hiking, fishing, and solitude.
For a rugged thrill, tackle the five-night Shingwedzi 4×4 Eco-Trail – featuring remote camping, river crossings, and immersive bush experiences. The four-day Palarangala Wilderness Trail offers guided game walks and wilderness camping for a slower, more intimate bush experience.
Alternatively, there is the Lebombo Hiking Trail – a four-day journey through unspoiled landscapes with experienced guides, wildlife sightings, and unforgettable scenery.
Shingwedzi Cliffs amongst dense woodlands
Wildlife
The dry season, from July to October, offers the best wildlife viewing in Limpopo NP. As surface water becomes scarce, animals congregate at waterholes, increasing the likelihood of sightings. It’s also the ideal time for travel: fewer mosquitoes, comfortable temperatures, and better road conditions.
The park shares much of its biodiversity with Kruger and is home to iconic species, including elephants, buffalo, zebras, giraffes, and sable antelopes. Although sightings can be sporadic, especially of predators, listen at night for the haunting calls of hyenas and lions. In less frequented parks like this one, wildlife takes time to acclimatise to tourism, making each sighting that much more special.
A rarer sighting of a cheetah in the parkAn elephant family traverses the landscape
Hippos and crocodiles inhabit the rivers, and conservation efforts continue to support endangered species, including African wild dogs and black rhinos.
Birders are in for a treat – over 500 bird species have been recorded. The rainy season, from November to April, is peak birding time, when migrants arrive, and many birds display their breeding colours – even if it clashes with optimal game-viewing months.
Look out for African fish eagles, lilac-breasted rollers, bateleurs, kori bustards, lappet-faced vultures, and saddle-billed storks. Listen for the distinctive call of the southern ground hornbill – a sound as evocative as the African bush itself.
Notable sightings might include African broadbills, eastern nicators, pink-throated twinspots, grey-rumped swallows, lemon-breasted canaries, African pygmy geese, and the elusive Pel’s fishing-owl.
Timid Burchell’s zebras peer from the dense brush
Explore and stay in Limpopo NP
Planning ensures the best possible experience.
From May to August, dry winter days are cool and comfortable, with crisp nights around 10°C and pleasant days in the mid-20s – ideal for game drives. Summers (November to April) bring searing heat, humidity, and dramatic afternoon storms. Daytime temperatures often exceed 40°C, though the average sits in the low to mid-30s.
Accommodation options range from rustic campsites to comfortable chalets. Whether you’re seeking guided game drives or self-sufficient camping, there’s something for every type of explorer. Staying in nearby villages and taking day trips into the park is also an option.
The park’s accommodation includes four 4×4 campsites, an overlander site for camper vans, individual camping stands, and self-catering chalets.
The park’s 4×4 routes are not for the faint of heart
Access is straightforward via road or air from Mozambique, South Africa, or Zimbabwe. The nearest airports are in Maputo (Mozambique), Hoedspruit (South Africa) and Mbombela (South Africa), with car hire and guided tour options readily available.
Entry gates – including Giriyondo, Pafuri, Massingir, and Mapai – operate year-round, with seasonal hours. Always check road and border conditions in advance and travel in a sturdy, well-equipped vehicle.
Limpopo National Park is not about instant gratification or ticking species off a list. It’s a place for those who savour stillness and seek meaning in the quiet return of wildlife. As the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Park vision edges closer to reality, every visit here becomes more than just a safari – it becomes part of a continental conservation legacy.
Take a deep dive into the reserve that makes up one of Africa’s most iconic safari destinations: Greater Kruger, South Africa
The iconic Kruger National Park is one of the world’s great conservation success stories and a popular safari destination to find the Big 5. Read more about Kruger National Park here
Female bonobos challenge dominance norms in the animal kingdom. Violette, a high-ranking bonobo female of the Ekalakala group, rests on her back while other group members groom each other
In the lush, dense rainforests of the Democratic Republic of the Congo, one of our closest relatives is rewriting the rules of power. While most primate societies, and most mammals for that matter, are male-dominated, bonobos are different. Here, the females call the shots. They decide whom they want to mate with, and when males make advances, females ward them off instead of submitting. Females even control the shared food sources, with males patiently waiting their turn. This has puzzled naturalists for a long time, as it is unusual behaviour in the animal kingdom. What makes the bonobo society so different from other primates? How did the females get to the top?
For years, unusual behaviour has long puzzled scientists, and it took analysing 30 years’ worth of data to find some answers about bonobo dynamics. A study published in Communications Biology offers insights into what led females to the top. It is not brute strength, but something else entirely: the power of sisterhood.
Researchers analysed data from six wild bonobo communities in DRC’s Kokolopori Bonobo Reserve. What they uncovered challenges the long-held belief that strength and aggression dictate dominance. Instead, bonobos show us a different path, where social bonds and cooperation determine who holds power. It is a revelation that challenges long-held assumptions about how status works in nature.
Gloria, a high-ranking bonobo female from the Kokoalongo group in the Kokolopori Bonobo Reserve, is groomed by a female coalition partner
“We present for the first time evidence that female coalitions [are] a way by which females gain power against males,” Martin Surbeck of Harvard University, who runs the Kokolopori Bonobo Research Project station. “Female coalitions exist in other species and can take the form of matrilines (line of descent from a female ancestor), like in female-philopatric baboons, but bonobos are special in that coalitions are mainly formed against males, and between unrelated females,” says Surbeck.
That’s remarkable, considering bonobo society is fluid. Females are the ones who migrate, often joining unfamiliar groups. Yet even as outsiders, they form the stable core of their communities. “Adult males, often their sons, accompany them,” noted Surbeck. “Bonobo groups split into smaller subgroups called parties that vary in size and composition, but they sometimes also travel together. Female coalitions can occur anytime during the day when needed, though they do not seem to gang together in anticipation.”
Barbara Fruth of the Max Planck Institute, who has led the LuiKotale Bonobo Project research station for 30 years, adds: “There were competing ideas for how, none of which had ever been tested in wild bonobos living in the jungles in which they evolved.”
The study tested three main ideas. One, the self-organisation hypothesis, suggests that social dynamics shift through repeated victories and losses, and momentum builds, allowing some females to climb the ranks despite their smaller size. In male-heavy groups, constant competition can weaken some males. Another, the reproductive control hypothesis, argues that if males cannot easily determine when females are fertile, especially when several females are fertile simultaneously, they lose control over mating. This levels the playing field and shifts influence to the females.
But it was the female coalition hypothesis that stood out. The findings were clear: females unite during conflicts, particularly against males. This significantly boosts their rank and reduces harassment. “I did not expect such a clear indication of the relevance of female coalitions,” explains Surbeck. “I thought that female sexuality would matter more, since we’ve seen that, on a dyadic level, females gain leverage against males when signalling ovulation.”
The Ekalakala bonobo group rests on a fallen tree in the Kokolopori Bonobo Reserve. In the middle, the bonobo female Ivoire is the highest-ranking individual in the group
Across the six bonobo communities studied (drawn from three field sites with observation periods of two to six years), 85% of coalitions were female-led and directed at males. These were not random emotional outbursts, but they were strategic and coordinated, often sparked by disputes over food or male aggression. In those moments, the effect was apparent: dominance came not from strength, but from unity.
One of the particular findings that stood out was the clear link between coalition strength and female dominance rank. Females who formed effective coalitions more frequently consistently held higher status. These alliances helped them access better food sources, assert themselves in group decisions, and reduce male harassment.
Why is this significant? In many mammalian societies, males tend to dominate. Bonobos break this narrative. Their society demonstrates that cooperation, rather than conflict, can lead to power and influence.
Of course, gathering these insights was not an easy task. “One of the biggest challenges of the study,” Surbeck notes, “was that bonobos only occur in remote parts of the DRC. The logistics of running long-term study sites and collecting the necessary data were incredibly demanding.”
Yet those efforts have paid off. This study deepens our understanding of primate behaviour and challenges assumptions about dominance and gender in the animal kingdom. It shows that, under the right conditions, solidarity can be stronger than force.
Want to go on a bonobo-seeking safari? We’ll help you plan your tailor-made bonobo safari. Alternatively, browse our other safaris here.
Resources
Martin Surbeck, Leveda Cheng, Melodie Kreyer, Gerrit Gort, Roger Mundry, Gottfried Hohmann, Barbara Fruth. Drivers of female power in bonobos. Communications Biology, 2025; 8(1)
Further reading
Research reveals bonobos & chimps use sex to resolve tension. Great ape sex offers insight into the evolutionary roots of human intimacy. Read more here
Controversy erupts over wild chimpanzees trafficked from DRC to India’s Vantara Zoo using suspect CITES permits. NGOs demand global action
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Collared pride lion hunted in Hwange + 10 African safari sundowner spots + epic Madagascar & Rwanda safaris
This week witnessed one of the most shocking examples yet of mass tourism gone mad.
This recent Instagram video by private guide Nick Kleer shows numerous safari vehicles crowding the Kogatende Crossing in Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park, preventing the wildebeest herds from crossing the Mara River during the Great Wildebeest Migration. It clearly demonstrates poorly trained, unethical guides and carefree tourists out of their vehicles. The lack of law enforcement is also evident and de rigueur. I have vented about this before, and I repeat that while our governments view wildlife tourism as a cash cow with minimal investment required, this will only get worse.
Our industry also has to step up. My promise to you is this: We will identify the responsible operators, and I will contact each CEO for a pointed discussion. We vet the partners for our tailored safaris very carefully, and if any are involved in this disgusting fiasco, the relationship will be terminated. If enough of my fellow travel company CEOs do this, we can turn the tide.
This massive pressure on Africa’s wildlife and ecosystems is evident in many other popular areas, such as Kruger National Park, Maasai Mara National Reserve, Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park.
On a happier note, scroll down to the heart-warming video below of a dramatic wild dog relocation in Mozambique. I was hooked from the first second. Well done to video creator Paul Steyn, a former teamAG member, and to the conservation teams on the ground – sterling effort!
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
It’s been a big month for South African Environmental Minister Dion George, who made two major conservation announcements that could signal a shift in South Africa. First up is the imminent publication of the Lion Prohibition Notice, which will ban new captive lion breeding facilities. It’s not an industry shutdown, but a move that many have been fighting for, which says that breeding lions for cub petting, trophy hunting, and the bone trade is no longer acceptable.
Hot on the heels of that news is the launch of the Rhino Renaissance Campaign in Kruger National Park, an ambitious 10-year plan to rebuild the white rhino population from 2,000 to 12,000. But getting to 12,000 rhinos will be a tall order. Big promises have been made. Will they shake things up on the ground, or are they lofty words destined to drift away on the policy breeze? We’ll be watching.
Trophy hunting season has arrived. And, as if on cue, we have discovered devastating news from Hwange: another collared lion has been trophy hunted. An Africa Geographic-sponsored collar, no less. There are serious ethical questions around this hunt, due to the presence of the research collar, and the young age of the lion, which had not reached the minimum age of 6 years required under Zim hunting guidelines. When will those who preach sustainable hunting confront the unethical practices within their own ranks and demand accountability instead of silence? Read more in our report on the hunt below.
And finally, to lift the mood and send you off with a smile, we’ve rounded up 10 of the most spectacular African safari sundowner spots in Africa. These golden-hour gems are all in places where wildlife is protected, biodiversity is celebrated, and the only thing getting taken away is your breath.
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Discover wild Madagascar on this connoisseur safari that takes you deep into Madagascar’s remote corners, where rare wildlife and rich local culture await. Explore the Ifotaka Community Forest with the Antandroy tribe and search for Verreaux’s sifaka and white-footed sportive lemurs. Then head northwest to Namoroka’s surreal tsingy landscapes, home to 10 lemur species, flying foxes, tenrecs, fossa, and the elusive aye-aye.
This safari flattens three bucket-list items in one epic trip – in one country! From searching for the Big 5 in Akagera NP to the forests of Nyungwe NP for chimpanzees, and Volcanoes NP for mountain gorillas. What more could you ask for? Aside from rare golden monkeys, the Kigali Genocide Memorial and more – which are also on offer during this African safari.
Amateur photography is my hobby, and each trip has been unique, well-planned, and fulfilled my purposes. Whether it was a tented camp in Zambia to see the bat migration, or a safari to Ethiopia. For our latest trip, I wanted to introduce my family of 11 (including 5 children) to the gorillas and chimpanzees of Uganda, the golden monkeys in Volcanoes NP in Rwanda, and the Great Migration in Serengeti NP. The details of the trip met our needs and desires. The smallest details were kept in mind, with travel arrangements precisely arranged. The drivers and guides were kind, knowledgeable, and fun to be with. Dining was always good.
AG safari expert Christian makes each journey a joy, and removes the anxieties of being in places that are really unknown to us. His judgment is always aligned with our needs, which are his first priority. And, on this past journey, the treks into the rainforests of Kibale and Bwindi were fantastic, and the golden monkeys in bamboo forests allowed for fantastic photography. Driving for miles and miles in the Serengeti among 1.5 million wildebeest and 400,000 zebras enabled me to begin to comprehend the magnitude of the Migration. We also saw a cheetah making a kill of a young Grant’s gazelle. Trust and enjoy.”
WATCH:
They were denning outside of safety: pups at risk, options few. In a bold conservation first, a wild dog pack is relocated 400km to a new life. This is the extraordinary story of a rescue no one thought possible. (20:53) Click here to watch
Blondie, a well-known, collared pride male lion in Zimbabwe’s Hwange area, has been trophy hunted after being lured into a hunting area with bait – leaving behind 10 cubs
During the week of 29 June 2025, Blondie was shot and killed by a trophy hunter just outside Hwange National Park, in the Gwaai / Sikumi Forest area. Despite wearing a conspicuous research collar and being younger than the recommended minimum hunting age of six years, this young lion was lured out of a photographic concession and killed in what many are calling a deeply unethical hunt. Yet, sources say the hunt took place legally, with all required permitting in place. The Professional Hunter is allegedly a member of the Zimbabwe Professional Guides Association (ZPGA).
Blondie was collared by the University of Oxford’s Wildlife Conservation Research Unit (WildCRU), using a collar sponsored by Africa Geographic, in April this year. These GPS satellite collars are fitted to track free-roaming lions, prevent human-wildlife conflict, and support long-term conservation. Africa Geographic approached WildCRU and the University of Oxford for comment, but we are yet to receive an official response.
Africa Geographic CEO Simon Espley had this to say: “As the sponsor of Blondie’s research collar, we are dismayed and angered by this development. That Blondie’s prominent collar did not prevent him from being offered to a hunting client, confirms the stark reality that no lion is safe from trophy hunting guns. He was a breeding male in his prime, making a mockery of the ethics that ZPGA regularly espouses and the repeated claims that trophy hunters only target old, non-breeding males.”
Blondie enjoying the morning sunshine
At the time of his death, according to one source, Blondie was 5 years and 3 months old and the dominant male of a pride that included three adult females and ten cubs – seven cubs around one year old and three approximately one month old. Zimbabwe hunting regulations recommend a minimum age of 6 years for lions trophy hunted, focusing on mature, non-pride males.
At just over five years old, Blondie was in the prime of his life. He was not a transient male on the periphery; he was a territory-holder, and a father. His sudden loss is expected to cause turmoil for the pride, with a high likelihood that incoming rival males will kill his youngest cubs. Such infanticide is common in lion dynamics, especially when coalitions shift. In the chaos that follows, the lionesses may flee the safety of the concession into communal lands, where snares and human conflict await.
Blondie with his Zingweni pride cubs
Blondie had often been seen on the private photographic concession since 2022 (where hunting is prohibited). Blondie took over the Zingweni pride and sired the current cubs. The pride’s movements frequently followed buffalo herds around Dete Vlei and into the Ganda Forest, outside Hwange National Park’s boundary.
According to reports from operators in the area, Blondie was last seen in his core range in June 2025. Observations suggest that he was baited out of the photographic concession over a period of several weeks and lured into the hunting area, where he was subsequently shot. The entire pride reportedly followed him during this period.
There are concerns that the Professional Hunter (PH) involved in the hunt was aware that Blondie was collared and that he had dependent cubs. It has been reported that, two weeks prior to the hunt, the hunter confirmed seeing Blondie with cubs and lionesses. When approached by AG for his side of the story, the PH declined to comment, other than to say that the hunt was “conducted legally, and ethically.”
An image posted of Blondie’s trophy-hunted body on social media. The image has since been removed
Blondie was the last known descendant of the Somadada pride, which had previously moved from Hwange into community areas. He had since established a stable pride in an area where resident lions have historically been scarce, due in part to conflict with local communities and previous hunting pressure.
Stakeholders have raised questions about the ethics of the hunt, specifically concerning the lion’s age, his status as an active pride male with dependent cubs, and the presence of a research collar.
AG reached out to the Zimbabwe Professional Guides Association for comment – we are yet to receive a response.
The photographic operators in the region report that there are few, if any, established lion prides within the hunting concessions themselves. As a result, male lions are often drawn from adjacent photographic areas or park lands. Conservationists and local stakeholders continue to call for a review of lion hunting quotas along the boundaries of Hwange National Park, and for clearer ethical guidelines in such cases.
Blondie photographed in April 2025, shortly before being collared by the research team
Hwange National Park’s lion population has long been under pressure from trophy hunting operating from adjacent hunting concessions. These concessions frequently lure pride males out of protected photographic tourism zones – often using bait – to make them available to hunters. Known lions like Cecil, Xanda, Mopane, Sidhule, and others have been trophy hunted just outside park boundaries, despite having research collars or being active pride males, leading to major demographic disruption within local prides. Studies indicate that from 1999 to 2012, human activity caused approximately 88% of male lion deaths in Hwange, mostly through trophy hunts, resulting in skewed age-sex structures and affecting cub survival and pride stability. Although local lion numbers rebounded when hunting quotas were reduced, renewed hunting pressure has coincided with renewed population declines and ongoing conservation concern.
Can an African safari bring healing? Aaron Gekoski heads to Zimbabwe to explore Hwange and Matobo National Parks to find out. Read more here
Trophy hunters killed breeding lion Mopane – from Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park – in a mirror of the Cecil tragedy. Here’s how we told it when it happened
Cocktails anyone? African safari tradition dictates that the end of the day be celebrated with a traditional sundowner – and snacks, of course! – enjoyed as the last golden rays of the setting sun impart their hue to the surrounding wilderness. Whether accompanied by designer G&Ts, local brews/wines, or some ice-cold water for the somewhat sunburned, there is no doubt that Africa boasts some of the planet’s best places to watch the sun go down.
Below is a list of some of our favourite sundowner spots, and why (in no particular order). Find your inspiration here, and start dreaming about that epic African safari.
Enjoying a sundowner as darkness falls over the Oloololo escarpment, the plains of the Maasai Mara below
The Oloololo Escarpment rises sharply 300 metres above the plains of Maasai Mara, affording visitors an extraordinary view of the serpentine path of the Mara River. If you are a fan of classic films, you might recognise this spectacular vantage as the one seen in the film Out of Africa. Recreate your own African romance and celebrate the spectacle that is the Great Migration. Take a moment to breathe, take a step back, and quite literally see the “big picture”.
Overlooking the escarpment
2. Sossusvlei, Namib-Naukluft National Park, Namibia
The dying embers of the day over the Namib-Naukluft
The stark beauty of this salt and clay pan at the heart of the Namib-Naukluft National Park lies in the towering cerise dunes – some of the world’s largest. The rich, soft sand of Sossusvlei has drifted in over the centuries, and begins to glow as the sun sets while the barking geckos begin their evening chorus. It is time to settle back with a sundowner and watch the rise of arguably the best stargazing display in Africa.
Sundowners in the desert
3. Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe (or Zambia)
The sunset through the mists of Victoria Falls
The world-famous Victoria Falls mark the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. As the mighty Zambezi tumbles down over 100 metres, it throws up a spray that can, on occasion, be seen for kilometres. At dusk, the descending peace allows you to consider what David Livingstone must have felt when he first laid eyes on the world’s largest waterfall.
4. Ngorongoro Crater, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania
A magical evening on the rim of Ngorongoro Crater
At the centre of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area lies the Ngorongoro Crater – the largest intact caldera in the world – surrounded by a rim that rises 2,300 metres above the grasslands below. Almost all Africa’s iconic animals, including the Big 5 and beyond, shelter in this geological cradle. Where better to appreciate the ancient geological forces that shaped East Africa than from the rim of a massive, extinct volcano? It’s a bit like stepping back in time to a lost world (but with readily available drinks).
Incredible vistas overlooking the crater
5. Forest baïs, Odzala-Kokoua National Park, Congo-Brazzaville
Treetop hides overlook baïs frequented by forest elephants
Odzala-Kokoua National Park, rich in biodiversity, lies in the northern reaches of Congo-Brazzaville and protects an enormous expanse of pristine Central African rainforest. Its many streams tumble their way through the trees before draining into the swampy forest baïs. Nestled deep in these Congo rainforests, Odzala-Kokoua offers treetop hides where you can sip as forest elephants, buffaloes and other wildlife descend to drink at these mineral‑rich baïs at day’s end. Okay, so this is less about the sunset and more about the atmosphere befitting a life-changing sundowner. Alternatively, you can stay at the camp’s elevated deck, enjoying sundowners around a fire as evening sets in and the night noises of the rainforest envelop you.
The deck of Camp Imbalanga in Odzala-Kokoua is engulfed by forest. Here, you can enjoy a fireside sundowner along with forest sounds
6. Chobe River, Chobe National Park, Botswana
Paddling home in the Chobe evening
The Chobe River, the lifeblood of Chobe National Park, marks the border between Botswana and Namibia before its confluence with the Zambezi River to the east. A sundowner is, in theory, meant to be a relaxing experience, but the sense of anticipation as thirsty wildlife approaches the water’s edge in the day’s final moments adds another dimension to your sundowner. Watch from the comfort of many a lodge deck perched along the river, or head out on a river cruise as the last rays descend on the day.
A sunset cruise on the Chobe River
7. Lake Malawi, Malawi
A fisherman makes his way home on Lake Malawi
Lake Malawi (also known as Lake Nyasa) is an African Great Lake – the southernmost lake in the East African Rift System and the fifth-largest freshwater lake in the world. The shores are lined by unspoiled sandy beaches, and below the surface, over 1,000 different freshwater fish species dart between the rocks. Why Lake Malawi? Because beaches, sunsets and cocktails are a winning combination.
The ultimate in relaxation on the shores of Lake Malawi
8. Lanner Gorge, Makuleke Contractual Park, Greater Kruger, South Africa
The afternoon wanes over Lanner Gorge
This magnificent viewpoint marks the border between the magical Makuleke Contractual Park and the Kruger National Park. Here, the Luvuvhu River has carved a winding path through the sandstone to create a breathtaking gorge that is over 150 metres deep at some points. The views from the lookout point provide the perfect spot to ponder what life must have been like for the people of Africa’s ancient civilisations 900 years ago.
9. Luangwa River, South Luangwa, Zambia
The perfect way to end a day on the Luangwa River
Life in the Luangwa Valley centres around the Luangwa River and the rich floodplains that spill over into the surrounding savannahs and woodlands. South Luangwa is the largest of the valley’s four national parks and is renowned for the enormous herds of elephants and buffaloes that congregate along the riverbanks. After an adrenaline-tinged day of walking in Big 5 country, soaking your feet in the cool waters of the Luangwa River is the perfect way to decompress.
Spotting elephants riverside
10. Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
Sundowners on the grassy plains of the Serengeti
The Serengeti’s vast, golden plains set the stage for some of Africa’s most unforgettable sundowners. Out on game drive, guides often find a quiet kopje or open stretch of savannah where you can watch the sun melt into the horizon, silhouetting giraffes or elephants in the amber light. Back at camp, the experience continues with drinks around a crackling fire, overlooking the wilderness as dusk gives way to starlight and the sounds of the nocturnal Serengeti awaken. Pure safari magic.
Final thoughts
Wherever you might find yourself in Africa, enjoying the beach, sitting with sleepy lions, or decompressing after a walking safari, stay there. Take a moment, look up and appreciate the unique display nature has prepared for you.
Sunset is a gorgeous time of the day anywhere in Africa
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Another Botswana tusker hunted + wild Nsumbu, Lake Tanganyika + 2 idyllic bush & beach safaris.
They will not stop targeting Africa’s free-roaming icons till every trophy has been surgically removed and hangs on a wall somewhere as a silent testimony to warped values, greed and ego. Our newsbreak below refers.
The trophy hunting industry targeting free-roaming wildlife is rotten to the core; the operators who do care about genuine sustainability (yes, they do exist, despite their mute status on issues like this) are swamped by the rest. They know that, and we know that. This outdated industry continues to suck away Africa’s biodiversity despite rapidly reducing free-roaming genetic stocks because enough individuals are sufficiently incentivised to keep the machine rolling and because the marketing machine is slick and aggressive. Cue the social media attacks. The end will come when all worthwhile individuals have been extracted. To better understand my view on hunting including and beyond free-roaming trophies, click here.
Meanwhile, my team and I continue bringing these atrocities to the world’s attention in the hope that the tide turns before we reach ground zero. We can do this, we can drive trophy hunting off the map by outcompeting them.
Know that every safari you enjoy with us supports our conservation media efforts, in addition to our donations to projects that make a tangible difference at ground level here in Africa. Thank you, and Safari njema, good people!
As I write this, a gang of red-headed weavers is smashing the fresh pollen buds of a flowering knob-thorn tree about 30 meters away – a wonderful spectacle indeed 🙂
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
In the extreme conditions of the bushveld, where South Africa borders Botswana, and frosty cold mornings meet blazing hot afternoons, helmeted guineafowl have shown us that survival is all about clever adaptation.
After a year-long study from Madikwe, researchers have found that guineafowls have developed their own way of handling the heat (and the chill). While some animals huddle for warmth or sprint for shade, guineafowls puff up like feathered pom-poms when it’s cold, stretch tall and catch the breeze when it’s hot, catch morning sunrays to heat up, and gather in noisy flocks not for warmth, but to find food and keep an eye out for predators. No drama, just smart daily moves that help them ride out nature’s wild mood swings. And as our climate throws more curveballs, it’s clear: being flexible, having options, and knowing when to sunbathe might just be the secrets to survival.
This week, we bring you a guide to Zambia’s remote Nsumbu NP, a wildlife-rich wilderness on the shores of Lake Tanganyika. Plus, we report on yet another shocking super tusker trophy hunt. See these stories below.
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
The perfect bush and beach trifecta. A classic Tanzanian bush and beach safari that immerses you in iconic locations with time-honoured luxury camps. This is an unforgettable 10-day sojourn that blends the untamed beauty of Tanzania’s northern safari circuit with the tranquil allure of its pristine beaches. You’ll journey through Lake Manyara NP to the awe-inspiring panoramas of the Ngorongoro Crater, the sweeping plains of Serengeti NP, and the sun-kissed shores of Zanzibar.
This safari combines the adventure of a Big 5 Zululand safari with the warm waters and white sandy beaches of the KwaZulu-Natal coastline. Expect 5-star treatment all the way. From a luxury tented camp in a riverine forest on the Msunduze River in Manyoni Private Game Reserve, to luxurious living in a chic boutique beach guest house, this safari is a real treat. Enjoy exciting game drives, spa treatments, delicious dining under the stars, ocean swimming, and snorkelling.
OUR SAFARI GUESTS SAY…
Here’s what our travellers have to say about their epic family adventures through Africa:
“AG recently arranged a trip for my two adult kids and myself to Kafue NP and Busanga Plains in Zambia. We stayed in the Musekese and Ntemwa-Busanga Camps. Our trip was a delight in all aspects. The local charter flights were very good, and ground arrangements flawless. Both camps are beautifully sited, comfortable and very well run. All staff are so friendly and our two guides excellent. A bonus was the quality of the food. Liuwa Plain is our next objective!” – Peter, South Africa
“AG safari expert Benjamin was particularly attentive on email and helped sort a few of our issues quite quickly. Friendly and co-operative. Our guides in Tanzania and Kenya were super knowledgeable and attentive. Highlights were the hot air balloon experience and bush breakfast, and seeing lions and elephants up close. More highlights were the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust visit, our giraffe experience, Diani Beach and spending time with the Tanzanians and Kenyans.” – Jill, Australia
WATCH:
She’s the last of her kind – elusive, solitary, and deeply stressed by human contact. SANParks and top ecologists are working on a sensitive, long-term plan for the lone Knysna elephant. Jeff Ayliffe joins the team in the forest to uncover her story. (04:42) Click here to watch
On the remote shores of Lake Tanganyika, where Zambia meets the vastness of Africa’s Great Lakes, lies Nsumbu National Park, a place where wilderness whispers of revival and resilience. Once scarred by decades of poaching and neglect, Nsumbu is now a conservation success story, where elephants roam freely, lions return to ancestral grounds, and rare thickets flourish once more. Here, the rhythm of nature is uninterrupted, the landscapes are untouched, and the spirit of Africa is alive and thriving.
Nsumbu is based at the northernmost tip of Zambia and the southern shores of Lake Tanganyika, close to Lake Mweru. The Nsumbu Mweru Landscape comprises three national parks, three Game Management Areas, a community conservancy, and substantial tracts of intact habitat that link these protected areas. Wildlife once ranged across the entire ecosystem in significant numbers, but then years of illegal hunting took their toll, depleting the park’s wildlife. Extensive conservation efforts over the past decade have, fortunately, led to a turnaround, with monitoring showing a growth in wildlife numbers, particularly in the heart of the park, where animal populations are now spreading across larger areas.
A rocky start and a brighter future
Nsumbu National Park covers 2,026km², including over 100km² of protected lake waters and approximately 100km of lake shore. Natural bays, rocky coves, vertical cliffs, and sandy beaches line the park’s long shoreline, while inland, rugged hills, deep valleys, and grasslands are cut through by the Lufubu River, which, flanked by escarpments on either side, marks Nsumbu’s eastern boundary and feeds a variety of streams and wetlands.
Like other remote parks in Zambia, Nsumbu was virtually abandoned in the 1980s and 1990s. What followed was several decades of decline. A historical trade route, demand for ivory, political instability in neighbouring DRC and decades of rampant poaching for game meat, predominantly with wire snares, depleted the area’s wildlife, and led to the total loss of lion, leopard and black rhino.
Poaching has now been brought under control, and animal numbers are increasing, in part thanks to a buffer zone created by the two Game Management Areas that adjoin the park. In 2017, Frankfurt Zoological Society (FZS) formed the Nsumbu Tanganyika Conservation Programme (NTCP) in partnership with the Zambian Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW), resulting in a significant and positive impact on the park. Recovery of the Nsumbu Tanganyika Ecosystem is underway. Today, herds of elephant and buffalo are seen once again, and healthy populations of antelopes in turn attract predators. There is also good birdwatching here, with over 300 species recorded. Nsumbu also holds the most extensive remaining tracts of Itigi-Sumbu thickets – a fragile ecosystem of which over 60% has been lost in the last 50 years.
In 2024, Nsumbu National Park achieved the International Union for Conservation of Nature’s (IUCN) Green List Status, awarded only to the most sustainable and efficient global conservation efforts. Nsumbu is only Zambia’s second park on the list, the other being North Luangwa National Park, whose management is also a partnership between FZS and DNPW.
Elephants on the water’s edge
Wildlife of Nsumbu
Nsumbu is not a prime wildlife-viewing destination, but animal populations are definitely on the increase. Elephants and buffaloes often come to the lakeshore to drink, and a variety of antelope species, including roan, sable, eland and hartebeest, can be seen on game drives. Bushbucks, warthogs and pukus regularly frequent the beaches. The rare blue duiker is one of the park’s specialities, along with the shy, swamp-dwelling sitatungas. Other species found here are spotted hyena, side-striped jackal, serval, zebra, impala, waterbuck and reedbuck. Lions were reintroduced to Nsumbu in 2024, with further reintroductions planned for the future. Leopards are rare, and the spotted hyenas are shy, but can be heard and sometimes even seen at night.
Pukus amongst the grassesSitatunga resting amidst Nsumbu’s wildlife
Flora of Nsumbu
Lake Tanganyika is a typical Rift Valley lake, characterised by dramatic, steep sides for much of its length. In most places, the shore is rocky, but there are also sandy stretches. The Lufubu River dissects the park, which runs through the Yendwe Valley. In this and other valleys in the park, there are groves of riparian trees, including the apple-ring acacia (Acacia albida) and Natal mahogany (Trichilia emetic), along with dense, shrubby woodland (Pteleopsis anisoptera). Along the lakeshore, strangler figs and candelabra trees are found, while the remainder of the park is primarily comprised of miombo woodland and combretum thicket, with patches of Itigi-Sumbu thicket.
The lush landscapes of Nsumbu, complete with candelabra trees
Itigi-Sumbu thicket is a rare ecosystem, composed of up to 100 species, many of which are endemic. The most extensive remaining tracts of the Itigi-Sumbu forest are found only here in Nsumbu, as well as in parts of Tanzania and small pockets of the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Characterised by thick, primarily deciduous, woody vegetation, and traditionally the habitat of elephants and black rhinos, this is a unique and endangered vegetation type, crucial yet fragile. With their restricted distribution, sensitivity to fire and vulnerability to deforestation, studies indicate that roughly 50% of the Itigi-Sumbu thickets in Tanzania and up to 70% in Zambia have already disappeared.
Nsumbu harbours the largest remaining stretches of Itigi-Sumbu thicket
Birdlife of Nsumbu
Birdlife in the Nsumbu National Park is prolific, with a total of 329 species recorded within the park, including many summer migrants. Commonly encountered species around the lake include the grey-headed gull, lesser black-backed gull, white-winged black tern, whiskered tern and, of course, the ubiquitous African fish eagle. Flamingos are one of the more spectacular migrants, while lakeshore inhabitants include African skimmers and spoonbills, along with a variety of storks, ducks and herons. Palm-nut vulture and Pel’s fishing owl are also occasionally seen.
The lake and its fish
Lake Tanganyika is Africa’s deepest and longest lake, spanning over 600km and containing 15% of the Earth’s available freshwater. Teeming with hippos and some of the largest crocodiles in Africa, swimming is not advisable. Nile crocodiles here can reach up to six metres in length, and hippos regularly emerge at night to ‘mow’ the grass. Also found in the lake are endemic reptiles like the Lake Tanganyika water snake (Lycodonomorphus bicolour) and water cobra (Boulengerina annulata). However, it is the life that has evolved here over the last 10 million or so years that makes Tanganyika special.
Jewels of Tanganyika – the lake’s endemic cichlids flash brilliant colours in Africa’s inland sea
Changing water levels over the millennia and a patchwork of habitats have led to an explosion of evolution among the lake’s cichlids, with around 250 unique and individual species. The cichlids of Tanganyika are remarkable in their diversity, complexity of behaviour, colour and breeding habits, and all but two species in the lake are endemic.
Nsumbu photographed from Lake Tanganyika
The Lufubu River
Beyond the lake, the free-flowing Lufubu River is the largest tributary of southern Lake Tanganyika. The sizable and perennial Lufubu River winds its way through the park, dissecting it from west to east, before pouring itself into the lake. Along its 250km journey, from the highlands to the lakeshore, the catchment encompasses diverse streams, beautiful oxbow lakes, and wetlands. The magnificent Chika Falls and the smaller Mwepwe Falls are Zambian heritage sites. At the same time, the extensive wetlands where the Lufubu meets the lake are part of the Ramsar Wetland of International Importance site that covers the length of Tanganyika’s shoreline within Zambia. The Lufubu is poorly documented and understudied, with great potential for species discovery. A 2023 study found that 25 of the 37 species sampled in the Lufubu are undescribed and endemic to the system.
Chika Falls on the Lufubu River
Nsumbu Tanganyika Conservation Project
The Nsumbu Tanganyika Conservation Programme (NTCP) is a long-term conservation partnership between the Zambia Department of National Parks & Wildlife and the Frankfurt Zoological Society, aiming to restore and protect the wider Nsumbu ecosystem. Since the start of the NTCP in 2017, a comprehensive conservation and protection strategy has been implemented, including investments in professional law enforcement, a canine unit, and rigorous snare removal. These efforts have seen a turnaround in this once heavily poached and depleted ecosystem. NTCP is also actively working to improve fisheries management and promote sustainable fishing practices in and around Nsumbu.
Local and indigenous communities play a vital role in the ongoing recovery and protection of Nsumbu. In surrounding community lands, conservation and livelihoods are deeply intertwined. Through collaborative initiatives such as the NTCP, local residents are engaged in anti-poaching patrols and sustainable natural resource management. Employment opportunities in park operations, tourism, and infrastructure development have provided alternative incomes and strengthened community buy-in. Traditional knowledge and cultural heritage also inform conservation strategies, fostering a sense of custodianship over the landscape. As wildlife returns and tourism slowly grows, these communities are increasingly positioned as stewards and beneficiaries of Nsumbu’s revitalisation, ensuring the park’s future is not only wild but also inclusive.
Since the start of the NTCP in 2017, a protection strategy, including anti-poaching patrols, has been implemented
Ecological monitoring, including camera traps and line transects, has been initiated, with analysis showing an increase in animal numbers, indicating recovery rooted in the well-protected heart of the park. In the early years of NTCP, elephants sought refuge in the more protected northern sector of the park. Today’s collar data show that, with improved protection, elephants are spreading across wider areas of the park for the first time in decades. No elephants have been recorded as poached since 2018, and despite increased patrols, fewer and fewer snares are being recovered.
NTCP is working to promote sustainable fishing practices in and around Nsumbu
In 2021, 200 buffaloes and 48 zebras were successfully translocated to Nsumbu National Park from North Luangwa to boost the remnant populations in the area. Buffalo and zebra, along with puku and warthog, are key prey species for lions, and their reintroduction was also part of a long-term plan to reintroduce lions, the apex predator, to Nsumbu. As a part of rewilding initiatives, in September 2024, three lions (two females from the same pride and a male from a different pride) were successfully translocated from North Luangwa National Park to Nsumbu.
A newly reintroduced lion surveys its ancestral realm
When to visit
Nsumbu receives few visitors, so it never feels crowded. From July to October, at the middle to end of the dry season, the water in the bush dries up, and the animals tend to stick closer to the lake. This is the best time for wildlife viewing. The thinner vegetation also means easier game viewing.
During the rainy season, from November to April, the lake is at its most beautiful, and this is a popular time to visit for angling. Most of the rain falls in thunderstorms, in the late afternoon or early morning, with lots of sunshine in between. Large numbers of migrant birds visit during the wet season, and the landscapes are stunning, with many perennial waterfalls visible from the lake. The terrestrial part of the park is inaccessible during this time.
Pukus at the feet of Nsumbu’s towering hills
Getting there
For intrepid self-drivers, the journey from Lusaka takes around two days, either via a direct route to Nsumbu, where the final stretch is a gravel road, or to Mpulungu Harbour, where travellers can arrange a speedboat transfer or board the local ferry. Those looking for a quicker option can fly to Kasama, followed by a road transfer to Mpulungu and a private boat across the lake to Nsumbu. The most seamless journey is a private charter flight straight into Chisala Airstrip within the park – ideal for those short on time.
Explore and stay
Safari-goers in Nsumbu National Park can enjoy a variety of activities that showcase the park’s diverse landscapes and rich biodiversity. Game drives offer the opportunity to spot a wide range of wildlife and incredible birdlife. Along the lake’s edge, guided boat safaris reveal hippos, crocodiles, and the striking scenery of hidden bays and sheer cliffs. The more adventurous can explore the Lufubu River by boat or on foot. Anglers will also find a variety of options here. Whether on land or water, every activity in Nsumbu offers a sense of exploration and discovery in one of Zambia’s most unspoiled wildernesses.
Despite its remote and wild setting, Nsumbu National Park offers a selection of intimate lodges and comfortable camps that blend seamlessly into the natural landscape. Nestled along the scenic shores of Lake Tanganyika, these accommodations range from beachside chalets to budget-friendly rooms and well-equipped campsites. Many feature lake views, onsite dining, and relaxed communal spaces, while some offer added luxuries such as swimming pools and air-conditioned rooms. Activities from these bases include guided game drives, fishing excursions, boat safaris, snorkelling, and sundowner cruises, making them not just places to stay, but immersive experiences in their own right.
Nsumbu National Park stands as a testament to nature’s resilience and the impact of dedicated conservation. From the depths of Lake Tanganyika to the heights of its escarpments, the park offers an unparalleled experience for those seeking solitude, adventure, and a connection to the wild. As wildlife returns and ecosystems flourish, Nsumbu invites travellers to witness the rebirth of a wilderness that, once on the brink, now thrives with life and promise.
Elephant amidst the brush
Find out about Zambia for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.
Liuwa Plain NP and Busanga Plains are two Zambian hidden gems, where thunderstorms transform plains into lush landscapes dense with wildlife. Read about Liuwa Plain here, and Busanga Plains here
This 109-pound tusker was recently hunted in Botswana’s NG42. Faces have been obscured for legal reasons – in accordance with privacy and defamation laws. Photo supplied
Another massive elephant bull was recently killed in northern Botswana, according to our trusted sources on the ground: the surgical removal of Africa’s large-tusked elephants by trophy hunters continues. This bull had at least one tusk weighing 109 pounds, ranking him among Africa’s largest elephants.
This magnificent Botswana tusker was trophy hunted in NG42, a trophy hunting concession leased and managed by Johan Calitz Safaris. The professional hunter (right) and the client featured in the photo above are citizens of Botswana. NG42 borders Chobe National Park to its north and Nxai Pan National Park to its south, and has been earmarked for possible inclusion into Nxai Pan NP to protect the annual Botswana zebra migration between the parks.
We estimate there are 86+ tuskers remaining across Africa. Southern Africa is home to 59+, while East Africa hosts 27+ tuskers. This count excludes Central African forest elephant populations, where tusk measurements are rarely estimated.
Botswana, a popular luxury photographic safari destination, hosts the largest fluctuating elephant population in the world, with many of these animals migrating seasonally across much of southern Africa, particularly in the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA), where Botswana and Zimbabwe are the largest fluctuating populations. These elephant migrations are increasingly obstructed by human settlements, farms, mining, major roads, fences and other man-made obstacles, forcing free-roaming elephants into reduced areas. ‘Fear zones’, where elephants are persecuted by poachers, farmers and/or trophy hunters, also dictate elephant movements and stress levels.
Human-elephant conflict occurs in areas where humans and elephants compete for land and water – and many rural human lives and livelihoods are lost in the process. This is a major concern and focus area for African governments, and the Botswana government is no exception. Ecosystems, where elephants congregate in increasing numbers near water during the dry winter months because of the above pressures, are also suffering as elephants denude these areas of large tree cover.
Comment from our CEO, Simon Espley:
“The killing of Africa’s remaining large-tusked elephants by trophy hunters will not solve any human-elephant conflict or habitat issues. The volume of elephants hunted is not sufficient to reduce elephant populations. Instead, the likely result of selecting large-tusked elephants as trophies will be to hasten the disappearance of these genetically gifted icons from the African landscape. This probability in my lifetime will be a sad indictment of an archaic industry that promotes killing for fun and ego and that refuses to evolve to modern realities where the ‘resource’ is no longer abundant and inexhaustible.“
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Guides or influencers? + Tanzania safari circuits decoded + Tsavo tusker Buchuma
Shots fired! The editorial below from a respected safari guide will piss off some of his colleagues and attract vitriol. Uncomfortable truths tend to do that.
Sticking your head above the parapet always results in a defensive reaction from those who benefit from this behaviour, and, of course, unwelcome attention from those who react emotionally to headlines and fail to invest time in absorbing the details. Trust me in that regard; I have the scars to prove it.
Of course, Adam is referring to a tiny minority of safari guides who enjoy a skewed influence because their behaviour and posts are emotive and therefore favoured by algorithms that seek engagement above all else. To the other guides, those not engaging in these tactics, I say this: call out your colleagues on their behaviour. Drop them a direct message and do not back down when they inevitably react defensively. If you don’t regulate your own industry, the algorithms will…
Swimming against the tide is tiring, but ultimately rewarding. Congrats to you, Adam, for your brave missive. Hopefully, some of the culprits will rise above their self-appointed social media influencer status and change their ways.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
South Africa’s national bird, the elegant blue crane, is in trouble. Once the centre of a conservation comeback story, the blue crane’s stronghold populations have declined drastically, including in the Overberg and Karoo – enough to reclassify this iconic species as Vulnerable. The reasons are complex: fewer chicks fledging, habitat loss, collisions with powerlines, nests lost to predators or machinery, and farmlands that once seemed like safe havens proving treacherous under the weight of agrochemicals and poisoning.
But, this is not a swan song: the blue crane soared once before thanks to focused conservation, and it can again. This news is a call to action for all of us who find joy in a crane’s rattling call to support conservation efforts and spread the news.
This week, we bring you a comprehensive guide to Tanzania’s safari circuits, with everything you need to know. Plus, we look at the pressure that influencer guides are placing on wildlife, with a hard-hitting Op-Ed from Adam Bannister.
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Combine three iconic parks with family fun for everyone. This nine-day family African safari to Kenya’s three most iconic destinations is packed with adventure for everyone. Expect an astonishing variety of wildlife encounters, from the Big 5 and Great Wildebeest Migration of the Maasai Mara National Reserve, to huge elephant tuskers in Amboseli National Park, and the ‘Samburu Special Five’ – gerenuk, reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, Somali ostrich and beisa oryx.
This walking safari tracks the wise old elephant herds as they follow the Galana River through Tsavo National Park, Kenya. Sharing the elephants’ home on equal footing and encountering the famous Tsavo maneless lions, gerenuks and hirolas (the world’s rarest antelope) will supersede any previous game-viewing experiences you’ve had. Stay in beautiful tented camps harking back to a bygone era, and explore the surroundings on game drives in the afternoons. The perfect balance between comfort and adventure.
BUCHUMA, ONE OF AFRICA’S LAST GREAT TUSKERS
Buchuma is a true giant of Tsavo, Kenya – a rare super tusker whose sweeping ivory touches the earth. First identified in 2014, Buchuma is known for his striking, wide tusks (the right one slightly shorter due to a break) and a unique scar on his left abdomen.
We’ve partnered with Tsavo Trust to help protect extraordinary elephants like Buchuma. Fewer than 100 of these tuskers remain across the continent – and Tsavo is home to at least ten. These elephants are constantly threatened by poaching and trophy hunting beyond Kenya’s borders.
Your support can help keep them safe. Donations go directly to Tsavo Trust’s dedicated aerial and ground teams, who monitor and protect these living legends every day. Help safeguard Africa’s last tuskers – find out more and lend your support here.
WATCH: Check out this teaser for Out of Mined – a powerful documentary that lays bare the beauty and fragility of South Africa’s West Coast. From sweeping coastal scenes to the voices of local defenders, the documentary is a call to action against the devastation caused by heavy mineral and diamond mining. The documentary outlines one urgent mission: to protect what remains of the West Coast. (02:07) Click here to watch For more videos celebrating Africa,check out our videos here
As social media rewards spectacle over substance, some private guides are prioritising viral content at the expense of ethics, safety, and the very animals they claim to champion. Drawing on firsthand accounts from across Africa and India, Adam Bannister explores the troubling rise of performative guiding – and makes a compelling call for a return to integrity, collaboration, and true connection with the wild
Private guiding, when done well, is one of the most valuable roles in the modern safari world.
Private guides bring a depth of knowledge, passion and continuity that can elevate a journey to something extraordinary. They often act as global ambassadors for conservation, bridging cultures and ecosystems. They open the eyes of their guests, and sometimes local guides too, to new ways of seeing the natural world. Their experience across diverse biomes allows them to offer layered perspectives, connecting dots across continents. At their best, they collaborate, inspire and enrich every environment they enter.
But with significant influence comes great responsibility. And, increasingly, I’ve noticed a troubling trend – one that’s being raised not by outsiders or critics but by the very people who share the field with them: the camp-based, often local guides who host these private guides on their home turf.
Over the past few months, I’ve been travelling across Africa and India, conducting training workshops for local, camp-based guides. In each of these sessions, I always carve out time to ask a simple but telling question: “What is the greatest challenge you face in your work as a guide?”
The answer, echoed across multiple camps, isn’t demanding guests, rain, bumpy roads, long hours or even time away from family. It is the behaviour of some private, often foreign, guides. And it strikes a chord that I can no longer ignore.
These are not just any guides. These are individuals, often high-profile, social media-famous personalities, who accompany their guests on safaris, frequently travelling between countries and camps. Increasingly, their work appears fuelled by Instagram likes, dramatic imagery and the need to secure the next client. But, in doing so, some are pushing boundaries – not only the ethical boundaries of wildlife viewing but also the patience and professional standards of local teams.
The best safaris are guided by respect, patience, and presence
Local guides have told me, time and again, that it is these celebrity-style private guides (not the many who operate with care and professionalism) who make their jobs most complicated. They feel pressured to park in unsafe locations. They’re pushed for closer, riskier approaches. They’re urged to allow clients out of the vehicle, even in the presence of predators, all to get that coveted low-angle shot.
Some go so far as to place guests on foot beside lions, wild dogs, cheetahs or elephants – not for the guest’s deeper connection but for the sake of content. A quick scroll through their feeds reveals thousands of followers and carefully edited highlight reels of clients standing within metres of wild, dangerous animals.
This behaviour is deeply troubling. It’s reckless. It’s dangerous. And it erodes the foundation of responsible guiding.
What’s perhaps most disheartening is the imbalance of power. Many local guides, young men and women born into these landscapes, and trained under strict codes of conduct, feel unable to speak up. When a guide with hundreds of thousands of followers leans in and says, “It’s fine, trust me”, it takes extraordinary courage to push back.
Many don’t. They defer. They become, as one guide sadly told me, “just the driver”. But this is not how it should be. A great private guide should enhance an experience, not dominate it. They should bring depth, collaboration and storytelling, not override safety protocols and dismiss the concerns of professionals who live and work in that ecosystem. They should uplift industry standards, not drag them down.
Let’s be very clear: We are witnessing a shift where the image has become more important than the animal. And worse still, where the image is secondary to the footage of us getting the picture.
Wildlife appreciation used to be precisely that – quiet reverence, long hours of observation and interpreting the subtle nuances of wild behaviour. Now, for some, it has morphed into “look at me”. Guides once praised for patience and insight are being overshadowed by those who specialise in risk, spectacle and viral content. But there’s another layer of absurdity to all this.
In this stock photo, a leopard, clearly distressed by the photographer’s presence, snarls in warning. The desire to create intriguing content is encroaching on the animal’s space, safety, and dignity, and endangering guests: a line no ethical guide should cross
Increasingly, these high-profile guides aren’t just chasing content at the expense of ethics; they’re doing it at the expense of their own guests. Guests who have paid generously for the privilege of private guiding now find themselves watching their guides perform for a camera. The guides are busy framing their reels and stories instead of interpreting the experience for those who hired them.
The priorities have become warped. Moments that should be about connection – a family of elephants crossing a river, the twitch of a leopard’s tail or the powerful sound of a lion’s roar – are instead treated as content opportunities. Instead of narrating behaviours or deepening understanding, some guides are walking into frame, adjusting GoPros and Insta360 cameras or instructing the guest to “stand just here” so the guide can get a shot.
It’s no longer about enriching the guest’s safari; it’s about building the guide’s brand. We can dress it up however we want. We can write lengthy captions about our extensive experience and how we’ve “read the situation perfectly”. But the truth is: If you’re looking through a lens or a phone screen, you are not fully present. You are not in control. And, if something goes wrong, the animal pays the price. It becomes stressed, habituated and unpredictable – or worse, it’s labelled a problem and removed.
We cannot pretend to champion conservation while simultaneously breaking the rules to manufacture drama for our benefit.
Let’s revisit what it truly means to be a guide. Our role is to expose people to the natural and cultural heritage of a place: its stories, its subtleties and its sacredness. To interpret behaviour, not stage it. To elevate the dignity of the animals and landscapes we work in, not reduce them to backdrops for personal branding.
Social media has given us incredible power. But with it comes enormous responsibility. If we have large followings, we must lead by example. If we claim to care about conservation, we must act like it, not just say it in hashtags. The irony is stark. The very platforms that could be used to educate and inspire are encouraging a race to the bottom, where the loudest, boldest and most outrageous content wins. The losers, inevitably, are the animals.
As an industry, we need a reckoning. We must ask ourselves: Are we part of the solution, or are we fuelling the problem? Let’s not forget why we guide. It is not for fame. It is not for followers. It is to awaken something in others – to be a bridge between the wilderness and the people lucky enough to witness it. The moment we place our content above the guest’s experience – or the animal’s welfare – we have stopped being guides.
If you’re seeking an unforgettable safari that makes a real difference, browse our ethical safaris and journey with purpose. Africa Geographic crafts tailor-made luxury safaris with trusted, ethical partners who prioritise conservation, communities, and animal welfare.
We have become influencers masquerading in khaki. This is not an attack on private guiding. Quite the opposite. It is a plea for the incredible power and potential of private guiding to be used well, with humility, ethics and grace. At its best, private guiding transforms lives, creates ambassadors for wild places and helps raise standards across the board. But it must be grounded in the right intentions. It’s time we return to integrity. It’s time we restore respect for wildlife, for each other and the guiding profession.
Because when a photograph becomes more important than the animal, we all lose.
Adam Bannister is a South African-trained biologist, safari guide, author and storyteller who has spent nearly two decades immersed in some of the world’s most iconic wild places, from the Sabi Sands and Maasai Mara to the deserts of Rajasthan and the forests of Rwanda and Peru. With a passion for training guides, Adam works across Africa and India to help guiding teams unlock their full potential, combining science, storytelling and presence to elevate the guest experience. His strength lies in translating complex natural phenomena into meaningful, memorable moments in the field. Read more about Adam here.
Further reading
Habituating leopards: Jamie Paterson & Maxine Gaines take an in-depth look at leopard habituation & tourism ethics. Read the story here
In a refreshingly honest opinion editorial, we look at eco-ethics amongst safari guides as they go about finding animals for guests. Check it out here
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Parrots, predators & the Karoo + Zambia safari highlights
When it comes to the secrets of anti-ageing, perhaps it’s time we stop looking to serums, surgery and snake-oil salesmen, and start taking notes from the forests of Madagascar. African wildlife, once again, is showing us how it’s done. Move over Kris Jenner: the fat-tailed dwarf lemur has just emerged as Planet Earth’s most unexpected age-defying role model.
New research reveals that during deep hibernation, these tiny primates lengthen their telomeres (the protective caps on our DNA that normally shrink with age): effectively pressing pause (and rewind) on cellular ageing. While we power through stress and screen time, these lemurs are outliving their peers simply by switching off and sleeping through the lean seasons. Now scientists are hoping these sleepy little wonders might hold clues for us to better understand ageing in humans, without the need for living in a tree hole for seven months. Who knew the secret to youth might be a long, uninterrupted nap?
This week, we explore the wonders of one of South Africa’s lesser-known national parks: another gem of the Karoo, Mountain Zebra National Park. Plus, we debate whether captive breeding of parrots can reduce pressure on wild populations, or worsen the conservation crisis. Check out our stories below. And don’t miss out on our two incredible safaris to Zambia.
Taryn van Jaarsveld – Africa Geographic Editor
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
A luxury safari in Zambia, where comfort meets extraordinary wildlife encounters in Lower Zambezi and South Luangwa National Parks – two of the country’s top safari destinations. Indulge in bespoke service, breathtaking landscapes, and intimate wildlife experiences, all while enjoying seamless luxury and discreet, attentive hospitality. This safari is an unforgettable journey and the ultimate safari escape.
This safari visits central and northern Kafue National Park, Zambia – teeming with predators and vast herds of lechwe, buffalo and elephant. You’ll explore the Kafue River, vast stretches of river valleys, and the swampy floodplains of Busanga Plains, which are brimful with big cats, their prey, and prolific bird life. Enjoy daily guided activities, including game drives, walking safaris, and boating.
OUR SAFARI GUESTS SAY…
Here’s what our travellers have to say about their epic family adventures through Africa:
Fabulous stay at Robins Camp: “Our trip to Robins Camps in Hwange NP, Zimbabwe, with a family group of 11 people, was perfect from start to finish. AG expert Dave took the time to understand what we were looking for and found the perfect 2-day stay for us within our time constraints and budget. He answered any questions thoroughly and promptly. It was delightful to disconnect from our busy lives, and just sit around the pool in the middle of nature, watching animals. The game drives were the highlight of our stay. Our guides were extremely knowledgeable about wildlife and were patient in answering our questions. It was a special treat to see hippos in their natural habitat, and to see three female lions with their two cubs. We are still savouring our memories. – Diana, USA
Africa Geographic planned a perfect Tanzania bush and beach safari for my family. Safari expert Stef planned our trip, and the lodges and camps were outstanding. The beach holiday was a perfect ending. Our guide Thomas was fantastic. – Tyrone, USA
WATCH: Planning an African safari can be overwhelming – but it doesn’t have to be. Wildlife photographer Andrew MacDonald shares what makes an Africa Geographic safari truly extraordinary. AG have been safari experts and storytellers since 1991, using deep, local knowledge to craft tailor-made journeys filled with unforgettable wildlife, luxurious lodges, and meaningful connections. All you need to do is show up and soak it all in – knowing your trip is making a real difference. Ready to plan your dream safari? Let Africa Geographic guide the way. (03:26) Click here to watch
Parrots, with their vibrant plumage, distinctive voices, and remarkable intelligence, have long captivated the human imagination. The popularity of parrots as pets has increased dramatically over the last decade, spurred on by social media and by the exotic pet trade’s hunger for rarity. As trade has increased, so too has commercial captive breeding of these birds. And yet some researchers are asking the controversial question: Does captive breeding help or hinder the conservation of the wild parrot populations?
According to the IUCN Red List, of the 398 known species of parrots, 18 are critically endangered, 39 are endangered, and 55 are vulnerable. Parrots are among the most threatened avian groups worldwide, and many parrot species are at risk of extinction.
Parrots in peril
Among Africa’s parrot species, the African grey parrot (Psittacus erithacus) stands out as one of the most heavily trafficked birds in the world. Prized for its intelligence and mimicry, this species has suffered catastrophic declines due to illegal trapping and habitat loss. By some estimates, populations in parts of West Africa have dropped by over 90%. (Population strongholds remain in a few West African protected areas, such as Congo Brazzaville’s Odzala-Kokoua National Park). Despite its listing on CITES Appendix I, trade continues in many regions through loopholes and poor enforcement. Its close relative, the Timneh parrot (Psittacus timneh), once considered a subspecies, is also under severe pressure and now classified as Endangered. Other African parrots facing growing threats include the Cape parrot (Poicephalus robustus), South Africa’s only endemic parrot, which is Endangered due to habitat fragmentation and historical trapping, and the Rüppell’s parrot (Poicephalus rueppellii), which is increasingly targeted for trade in Namibia and Angola. While not as globally prominent as African grey parrots, species like the rosy-faced lovebird (Agapornis roseicollis), Fischer’s lovebird (Agapornis fischeri), and Meyer’s parrot (Poicephalus meyeri) are also impacted by wildlife trade, facing pressures from local trapping, habitat loss, and poorly regulated regional markets that continue to remove wild individuals despite captive breeding efforts. Without stronger protection and enforcement, several of these species risk being lost from the wild.
A caged African grey parrot. Popular as a pet, grey parrots are of the most heavily trafficked birds in the world
The current global protected area network only covers 10% of parrots’ total geographic range, according to a 2020 study. This lack of habitat protection adds urgency to discussions about potential conservation strategies.
The captive breeding debate
It is this dire situation that has led researchers to weigh up all options in the fight to save parrot populations, with their findings laid out in a recent publication. One approach is to question whether commercial captive breeding is successful in reducing pressures on wild birds. Historically, the overexploitation of wild parrots for the pet trade has led to drastic population declines in certain species, and conservationists aim to prevent such impacts from recurring. That is why researchers from the World Parrot Trust and World Animal Protection set out to investigate whether commercial captive breeding of parrots is a plausible intervention to address unsustainable trade. The researchers sought to determine whether breeding parrots in captivity would result in fewer birds being taken from the wild. They developed a set of conditions or prerequisites that must be met before one can justify the use of captive breeding as a conservation tool. The researchers then investigated whether these conditions were being met by reviewing and collating the scientific and grey literature for 16 parrot species currently traded as pets.
The study is important, as captive breeding is increasingly being promoted, sometimes by governments, sometimes by private interests, as a potential solution to the overexploitation of wild parrots. The idea is that if consumer demand can be met with legally bred birds, the incentive to poach wild individuals will decrease. It’s a “supply-side” approach, akin to farming rhinos to harvest their horns and reduce illegal trade in horn.
Fischer’s lovebirds in a breeding aviary. These lovebirds are commonly linked to wildlife trade concerns due to ongoing wild capture and habitat decline
However, as the study itself notes, this premise is riddled with untested assumptions, and there’s very little empirical evidence showing that captive breeding reliably reduces pressure on wild populations, especially in the parrot trade. What’s more, there’s growing concern that the mere presence of legal markets provides cover for laundering wild-caught birds.
Captive breeding may fuel, not curb, trade in parrots
As researchers unpacked the evidence for whether captive breeding could offset demand on wild populations, they found that the captive-bred parrot trade is stimulating and facilitating trade in wild-sourced parrots, rather than hindering it.
One of the key considerations highlighted in the review is that parrots are high-maintenance creatures, and some species may take years to mature sexually. This challenges the assumption that breeding is a more cost-effective solution for traders – it is not more cost-effective than sourcing birds from the wild. For those illegally trading wild birds, illegal capture incurs few upfront costs.
Captive breeding costs include the authorities’ expenses for monitoring and regulation. Without this regulatory control, there would be no way to verify that breeding stock is not being taken from wild parrots.
Regulatory failure and laundering risks
For captive breeding to be considered as an effective conservation measure for protecting wild birds, the scenario would need to ensure no wild birds be removed from the wild for any reason. This criterion has been repeatedly broken by captive breeders removing wild birds for restocking or improving genetic breeding stock. Furthermore, wild birds are often captured or poached under the guise of captive breeding programs, an unintended consequence with a negative impact on wild populations. Commercial captive breeding would need to be governed by adequate regulatory measures to prevent laundering, and this level of control is often lacking in many countries.
Demand uncertainty and market gaps
The researchers also considered whether consumers preferred captive-bred parrots to wild-caught parrots (much like the question of whether farming of rhinos for their horns could prevent illegal trade in wild rhino horn). They did not have enough data to conclude whether this held, but calculated that it could have a significant impact on the demand side of the pet trade. This gap was one of many significant knowledge gaps that need to be addressed before breeding is even considered as an effective conservation measure.
Even in cases where researchers identified that quick-breeding parakeets and cockatiels could be bred in sufficient quantity to supply and even exceed demand, this was only applicable within domestic, low-value markets. Furthermore, this scenario does not address illegal trade of rarer, high-value species.
Rosy-faced lovebirds, while less targeted in the illegal trade due to their wide availability through captive breeding, are a major part of the broader pet market landscape
There were also unintended consequences of captive breeding. The study also re-emphasises that legitimising the pet trade can stimulate demand on both wild and captive populations. The researchers warned that large-scale captive breeding may inadvertently boost wild capture, highlighting significant unknowns: productivity data, scale in Asian markets, and profitability under strong oversight remain lacking.
Illegal trade in parrots persists
Despite some captive‐breeding efforts, the illegal parrot trade remains rampant. In 2024, seizures included 60 parrots in Indonesia, 36 African greys in Nigeria, and over 12,000 in the DRC. Bolivia alone loses approximately 22,000 wild parrots annually to the pet trade. This underscores that trafficking continues unabated, with wildlife crime valued at roughly $20 billion/year. However, tackling enforcement has gained a digital boost: advanced AI methods (such as language-learning models and image-recognition models) are now capable of detecting illegal wildlife trade advertisements online, offering a promising new weapon against clandestine sales.
On another hopeful note, some source nations are taking serious steps: in April 2025, DRC’s Tshopo Province imposed a ban on wild-caught African grey parrots, a major blow to traffickers using river and airport routes. However, the efficacy of this measure will depend on consistent enforcement.
Rethinking conservation priorities
The authors conclude that the efficacy of captive breeding in reducing pet-trade pressures on wild populations is difficult to prove. They affirm that the conditions for it to work are rarely met and that, in many cases, captive breeding exacerbates the problem. Still, the fact that the conversation is happening at all is a signal of how deeply the commodification of wildlife has permeated conservation discourse.
Wild Cape parrots in flight
The study recommends that decision-makers review captive breeding policies carefully before committing parrot species conservation to interventions with uncertain outcomes.
Furthermore, beyond considering captive breeding as a far-fetched conservation tool, the survival of parrots in the wild depends on meaningful habitat protection, strong law enforcement, and a societal shift away from treating wildlife as novelty pets.
Africa’s parrots are colourful characters that live in complex social groups. But they are among the most threatened of all bird families. Read more about Africa’s parrots here
A recent study examines how social media marketplaces facilitate the trafficking of endangered African grey parrots. Check out the study here
In the heart of South Africa’s Eastern Cape, where grasslands roll into ridges and the Karoo sun shines golden, there is a national park that rarely makes it onto bucket lists. It does not draw convoys of safari vehicles or Instagram fame. But Mountain Zebra National Park, just outside Cradock and three hours from Gqeberha (formerly Port Elizabeth), quietly delivers something far richer: space, solitude, and a conservation story worth telling.
Among boulder-strewn ridges and wind-swept grasslands, a quiet conservation triumph has taken root, where endangered zebras found sanctuary and cheetahs and lions returned to land that once forgot them. This is not the home of your typical African safari, but a lesser-known gem – home to four of the Big Five – worth exploring.
It starts with a zebra
It all began with a zebra, or more accurately, the Cape mountain zebra, a delicate, sure-footed cousin of the better-known plains variety. By the 1930s, hunters pushed this particular subspecies to the brink. A small number remained, hanging on in isolated pockets of the Karoo.
Cape mountain zebra in the foothills
Recognising the urgency of the zebra’s situation, the South African government set aside a sliver of land in 1937, just over 1,700 hectares, as a refuge for the remaining animals. This modest gesture planted the seed for what would eventually become a full-fledged national park. Fast forward to today: the park now covers over 28,000 hectares and supports a thriving population of Cape mountain zebras.
A zebra foal frolics through the long grasses of the Mountain Zebra National Park grasses
Cape mountain zebras are unmistakably different from plains zebras (or its southern subspecies, Burchell’s zebra), which do not occur in this park. They come with a dewlap under the neck and solid stripes that do not run under the belly. They are also stockier and made for rocky areas.
Mountain kingdom
What sets South Africa’s Mountain Zebra NP apart is its scenery. Vast plains give way to thickets, slopes scattered with boulders, and the Bankberg Mountains to crown it all. For anyone with a love of space and stillness, this park is an invitation to slow down, revealing a kind of drama that unfolds at its own pace. The diverse terrain is ideal for mountain bikers, hikers, and 4×4 enthusiasts, while traditional safari experiences such as guided game drives and bush walks are also available.
Rising from 910 to a lofty 2,135 metres above sea level, Mountain Zebra NP offers a landscape as varied as it is spectacular. At its highest point, Bakenkop peaks at 1,954 metres, offering panoramic views that will leave you breathless in more ways than one.
Endless horizons and shifting light: Mountain Zebra National Park’s rugged beauty stretches in every direction
The park’s southern reaches are particularly dramatic, where the rugged Bankberg mountains surge skyward, with altitudes ranging between 1,300 and 1,900 metres, and some rocky outcrops pushing beyond the 2,000-metre mark. The Bankberg escarpment particularly offers dramatic hikes and 4×4 routes that unveil shifting vistas, making the park both geologically fascinating and visually breathtaking. From the moment you pass through the entrance gate at 998 metres and ascend to the reception area at 1,215 metres, you’re immersed in a high-altitude haven sculpted by time and teeming with life.
Since 2012, the park has been actively restoring degraded land using erosion-control techniques and initiatives to clear invasive plants like prickly pear and jointed cactus. These efforts rejuvenate natural habitats and develop local employment and skills through public‑works programs, strengthening ecology and communities.
The road less travelled, winding its way into the heart of the Bankberg mountains.
Wildlife in Mountain Zebra NP
This variation in terrain means game viewing is diverse, too. Black wildebeest and springbok graze on the plains along with other antelopes like red hartebeest, eland and blesbok. The mountain reedbuck and grey rhebok prefer the high mountain slopes along the Kranskop Loop, one of the park’s scenic routes. One might run into Cape buffalo in the protected thicket and wooded valleys. And a few fortunate travellers may even get to spot the park’s black rhinos.
Twin sentinels of the Karoo: blesbok stand watch in the grass
Big cats were absent from this landscape for a long time, but in 2007, SANParks reintroduced cheetahs to the park, which historically occurred in the region. Since then, Mountain Zebra NP has been pivotal in restoring South Africa’s cheetah population. This rewilding effort began with two females from Samara Game Reserve, followed by two males to establish a breeding population. Mountain Zebra NP soon became a key player in the Cheetah Range Expansion Project (originally the Cheetah Metapopulation Project), an initiative by the Endangered Wildlife Trust to secure the future of cheetah populations confined to fenced reserves across the subcontinent. Cheetah numbers flourished rapidly, prompting early translocations to maintain genetic diversity and reduce inbreeding risk. Since then, the park has contributed more than 35 cheetahs to metapopulation efforts across Southern Africa, including rewilding sites in Malawi and Zambia.
Springboks on the plains
Beyond its conservation science accolades, the national park offers guests a rare privilege: the opportunity to explore the Karoo wilderness on foot, witness these free-roaming cheetahs from a respectful distance, and observe the success of modern conservation in action firsthand. The experience is immersive and humbling: tracking these elusive cats using telemetry across sun-drenched ridges and valleys where they’ve reclaimed ancestral ground.
Tracking collared cheetahs with telemetry equipmentMountain Zebra National Park’s cheetahs are thriving and are an essential source of genetics for the cheetah metapopulation
The park is also home to lions, which were reintroduced in 2013, after an absence of 130 years from the area. At the time, three lions (one female and two males) were introduced to the park. In 2019, the area welcomed its first litter of cubs. This means that the park is home to four of the Big Five (including leopards – only elephants are absent).
This park is also an excellent destination for animals rarely seen in other wilderness areas, including elusive aardwolf, brown hyena and bushpig. Aardvark and porcupine are also seen on guided night drives through the park. And a lucky few have even spotted black-footed cats in the park.
Flora and birdlife in Mountain Zebra NP
The vegetation of Mountain Zebra NP is a rich mosaic of three distinct types: Karoo Escarpment Grassland, Eastern Upper Karoo, and Eastern Cape Escarpment Thicket. These represent elements of three major South African biomes: Grassland, Nama-Karoo, and Thicket. This blend supports high biodiversity, ecological resilience, and scenic variation. The grasslands, dominated by Merxmuellera disticha and hardy shrubs like Euryops annuus, are prone to natural fires and offer critical forage for large herbivores, especially on the park’s north-facing, sun-warmed slopes. The more arid Eastern Upper Karoo shifts with rainfall, alternating between grassy and shrubby dominance. The park boasts exceptional botanical richness with over 680 plant species recorded, including 13 Red Data species. Crucially, the vegetation types preserved here are among the least protected elsewhere in South Africa, making MZNP a vital stronghold for the long-term conservation of South Africa’s unique arid and transitional flora.
The park’s golden vistas stand ready to be explored.
Because of the varied vegetation and habitat, including open plains, mountainous areas and thickets, birdlife delivers great variety. With over 270 species recorded, it is a birder’s paradise. Open plains, such as in the Rooiplaat area of the park, draw larks, pipits, blue cranes, secretarybirds, and bustards. The rocky slopes are prime territory for raptors like Verreaux’s eagle, martial eagle, and jackal buzzard. River thickets shelter smaller species. Drakensberg rockjumper and ground woodpecker are frequently seen around the park’s mountain cottages.
Things to do in Mountain Zebra NP
Beyond the animals you can find on self-drive or guided game drives, Mountain Zebra NP holds human history, too. Several rocky areas in the park protect ancient rock art. A guided walk to these sites reveals more than just pigment on stone. It is a glimpse into how people once lived in and related to this area.
There are also 4×4 routes for the adventurous, and two walking trails within the rest camp. Whether on foot or behind the wheel, the sense of space is always present.
On Saltpeterskop, one of the prominent kopjes in the park, British soldiers etched their names and a full-sized chessboard into the rock during the Anglo-Boer War. Legend has it they played long-distance games with comrades in Cradock using signal mirrors to communicate the moves. Guided walks up to this spot are on offer for fit travellers.
Game drives may yield incredibly rewarding sightings
Explore and Stay
The park’s accommodation suits a range of budgets and preferences – from camping under the stars to cosy family cottages. The newest addition, the rock chalets, is highly recommended for its views. If you are after solitude, skip the main rest camp and opt for a rustic mountain cottage or the charming historic guesthouse. Prefer camping? There’s a well-equipped site for tents and caravans too.
The Black Eagle Trail, leaving from the main rest camp, offers a 2.5km hike with exceptional views
Mountain Zebra NP may not draw massive crowds like the Kruger National Park, but that is part of its power. It offers a rarer chance to experience South Africa’s wild spaces without the bustle. To linger, to breathe, to watch a jackal pass through the twilight or to hear the first call of the birds at dawn.
Cape Mountain zebras are the park’s namesake and pride
Mountain Zebra NP is not about ticking species off a list. It’s about listening to wind in the grass, watching the earth breathe, and witnessing a wilderness that healed itself. In these high Karoo spaces, travellers don’t just visit nature. They walk inside a conservation story still being written.
From relaxed elephants to hard-working dung beetles, Addo Elephant National Park is another Eastern Cape park worth exploring. This conservation marvel is packed with wildlife, adventure, and history. Read more about Addo here
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Leopard hunting exposé + Join a Zambian wildlife translocation safari this July
Experienced travellers regularly ask me to recommend one safari that makes an immediate, measurable conservation impact. This is it.
In late July, African Parks is translocating hundreds of zebras and wildebeest from Zambia’s Liuwa Plain to Kafue. Six Africa Geographic guests will join their crew of vets and rangers on the ground in Liuwa Plain to monitor herds, shepherd them towards capture bomas and load them into trucks. And they will witness a release in Kafue. There may also be veterinary procedures related to scientific research and the treatment of injuries, if necessary. You could join that VIP group and play your part. It will be noisy, dusty and fast-paced at times, but always deeply meaningful at conservation ground zero. I have joined this and other crews on similar missions – it’s exhilarating and immensely satisfying. Not only do you get your hands dirty and learn a great deal about conservation, but your safari price also directly finances these translocations.
And yes, you will have time for game drives and other epic safari activities – in Liuwa Plain and the astonishingly fantastic Busanga Plains, Kafue. In Liuwa Plain, your stay will be hosted by African Parks in a comfortable tented camp built specifically for this experience, while in Kafue, you’ll be hosted in a rustic safari bush camp. The short flights between Lusaka, Liuwa and Kafue will give you an epic birds-eye view of this vast biodiverse landscape.
As you read this, I am in Botswana – first the Central Kalahari and then the Okavango Delta, inspecting lodges and finding the magic that goes into our tailor-made safaris. This is one tough aspect of my job, but someone has to do it 😉
Thanks for reading this.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
For the first time in six years, an elephant has been spotted in Senegal’s Niokolo-Koba National Park – and not just any elephant, but Ousmane, a lone bull who is a forest and savannah hybrid. Captured by a camera trap in the moonlit hush of the forest, his unexpected cameo has reignited hopes that the park’s once-silent herds may return. With millions invested and boots on the ground, conservationists are starting discussions on rewilding a population that had all but vanished. Dare we hope? If the latest forest whispers are anything to go by, then definitely.
This week, we examine a report that details the extent to which trophy hunting is affecting leopards. And, we dive into the magical world of mountain gorillas, with everything there is to know about these gentle giants.
Happy exploring!
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Dusty air, pounding hooves and the warm sun on your neck: this is what you can expect from this exclusive safari opportunity. Join Africa Geographic and African Parks on a hands-on conservation adventure this July, where you will be right at the central part of a wildebeest and zebra translocation operation. In Liuwa Plain, you’ll assist the AP capture team in monitoring and capturing herds. Stay in a purpose-built tented camp, meet park managers, and see the conservation process from the inside. Then, witness the dramatic release of translocated animals into one of Africa’s great wildernesses, Kafue. You’ll also enjoy immersive game drives, walking safaris, and serene nights at Ntemwa-Busanga Camp in Busanga Plains.
This safari flattens three bucket-list items in one epic trip – in one country! From searching for the Big 5 in Akagera NP to the forests of Nyungwe NP for chimpanzees, and Volcanoes NP for mountain gorillas. What more could you ask for? Aside from rare golden monkeys, the Kigali Genocide Memorial and more – which are also on offer during this safari.
MAKE YOUR MARK FOR WILDLIFE CONSERVATION
Support our Collar a Lion, Save a Pangolin and Guarding Tuskers conservation campaigns – vital efforts protecting Africa’s most vulnerable species.
Lions have lost 75% of their population in 50 years. Pangolins remain the world’s most trafficked mammal. Fewer than 100 great tuskers roam the Earth. Your support on these campaigns helps conservation teams on the ground make a lasting impact. Learn more about our campaigns now.
WATCH: This powerful video, featuring HRH Prince William, reveals the courage, care, and hope driving the battle to save a species on the brink of extinction. Left orphaned and vulnerable after brutal poaching attacks, baby rhinos face a desperate fight for survival. But thanks to the fearless guardians at Kruger National Park and Care for Wild, these calves are given a second chance at life. Check out this snippet from BBC Earth’s Guardians. (10:32) Click here to watch
There are few wildlife encounters as profound or humbling as locking eyes with a mountain gorilla in its misty highland home while on an African safari. These great apes, one of four gorilla subspecies, share more than 98% of our DNA, and their human-like behaviour, deep social bonds and intelligent gaze create a powerful sense of connection. Mountain gorillas (Gorilla beringei beringei) live only in the cloud forests of the Virunga Massif and Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, in troops led by dominant silverbacks who mediate troop movements, resolve conflicts and protect their families. Watching them forage, play or care for their young in the wild is a privilege that leaves a lasting imprint on every traveller fortunate enough to witness it.
With fewer than 1,100 individuals remaining, mountain gorillas are classified as Endangered, their survival a hard-won conservation success built on community collaboration, veterinary care, research and tightly regulated tourism. Trekking to see these gentle giants has become the ultimate bucket list experience – a journey through emerald montane forests where mist clings to the canopy and every rustle might reveal a primate of extraordinary presence. It’s not just another wildlife sighting; it’s a soul-stirring communion with one of our planet’s most iconic species, making it a quintessential African safari and a testament to the power of sustainable, ethical travel.
“The thrill of trekking for mountain gorillas in the astonishingly beautiful misty highlands of East Africa is not difficult to explain. Quietly observing these gentle giants as they go about their day is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for a privileged few, and to be treasured beyond compare. If you are lucky enough to exchange glances with one of the troop, you will become aware of that narrow genetic gap between our two great ape species. The exchange of recognition, of awareness, is apparent. This is not the heart-thumping primordial fear one experiences when a twitchy lion gives you the stare, or that adrenaline rush when that cantankerous old buffalo bull rises from the bluebush thicket and fixes you with his myopic glare. No, this is different. This is gentle to-and-fro communication at a spiritual level.”
~ Simon Espley, CEO of Africa Geographic
‘Mark’, the dominant silverback of the Nyakagezi Group, takes some time out in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park in Uganda
What’s in a name?
There are two gorilla species – the eastern gorilla (Gorilla beringei) and the western gorilla (Gorilla gorilla).
There are two subspecies of the eastern gorilla, namely the mountain gorilla (Gorilla beringei beringei) and the eastern lowland/Grauer’s gorilla (Gorilla beringei graueri). There are two subspecies of the western gorilla, namely the western lowland gorilla (Gorilla gorilla gorilla); and the Cross River gorilla (Gorilla gorilla diehli). Mountain gorillas, the focus of this article, are found in Rwanda, Uganda, and the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC).
Conservation status and distribution
The mountain gorilla population is estimated at 1,063 individuals, up from fewer than 900 individuals in 2010. This increase is primarily due to the cooperation from communities that live near mountain gorillas, NGOs that operate on the ground, and tourists, who pay in hard currency for the privilege of trekking to see mountain gorillas.
Mountain gorillas are found in two populations in Africa:
As a result of the above conservation successes, the mountain gorilla was reclassified in the IUCN Red List as ‘Endangered’ in 2018 (facing a very high risk of extinction), improved from its previous category of ‘Critically Endangered’ (facing an extremely high risk of extinction).
Major threats to mountain gorillas
Factors contributing negatively to mountain gorilla conservation status include poaching for bushmeat, the continuing political instability in parts of the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC), habitat loss/degradation, and the risk of disease transmission by humans, domestic animals and livestock. There is a distinct possibility that the subspecies could experience a 25% reduction in the next 20 years.
As of 2025, tourism in DRC’s Virunga National Park remains suspended due to ongoing armed conflict. Key access routes are closed, park staff have been evacuated, and gorilla trekking and other ecotourism activities have been halted in conflict zones.
Silverback in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park
Mountain gorilla habitat loss
The primary threat to mountain gorillas comes from forest clearance and degradation, as the region’s growing human population struggles to eke out a living. Conversion of land for agriculture and competition for limited natural resources, such as firewood, lead to varying degrees of deforestation. Also, the harvesting of charcoal, as a fuel source in cooking and heating, has also destroyed gorilla habitat.
The border between Bwindi Impenetrable National Park and community landIn the tea plantations alongside the tangled forest of Bwindi, a young gorilla contemplates the photographer
Diseases, immunity and survival
Gorillas are vulnerable to human diseases, and when coming into contact with humans, can pick up a variety of illnesses, from the common cold to Ebola, all of which can prove fatal.
Following the COVID‑19 pandemic, gorilla tourism protocols have been tightened to protect both humans and primates from disease transmission. Measures such as mask-wearing and increased distance rules have significantly reduced the incidence of respiratory illness in habituated gorilla groups.
As gorillas have not developed the necessary immunities, first-time exposure to an illness or virus that is relatively innocuous to humans may devastate an entire population. However, studies have found that mountain gorillas that are regularly habituated with researchers and tourists have survived better than unvisited gorillas; they benefit from the greater protection available in those areas and from regular monitoring. Increased survival is also largely due to better veterinary care of sick and injured gorillas.
Poaching and bouncing back
In recent years, there has been increased targeting of mountain gorillas for bushmeat and the pet trade. Gorillas can also be caught and harmed by snares set for other animals.
Fortunately, non-profit organisations such as Gorilla Doctors provide on-the-ground veterinary care to gorillas in their natural habitat, treating injuries from snares, fights, or other ailments. They also play a role in rescuing and rehabilitating orphaned gorillas. Their mandate is to monitor the populations of mountain and Grauer’s gorillas – the two subspecies that live in the Albertine Rift – and, when the life or well-being of an individual gorilla or family group is at stake, intervene.
Innovative community-based conservation projects also continue to thrive around gorilla habitats. Initiatives such as the rehabilitation and rewilding of orphaned gorillas are helping to support both wildlife and the local economy.
As a result, mountain gorilla conservation is one of Africa’s greatest wildlife success stories, with population numbers rising steadily thanks to decades of collaborative effort. This progress is the result of intensive monitoring, habitat protection, community-driven conservation, and carefully managed tourism that directly funds their protection.
A family portrait of the Rugendo mountain gorilla family in Virunga National Park
Moving mountains
Mountain gorillas live for 35–40 years in the wild, in troops with home ranges that vary from three to 15 km². They typically move only about 500 metres per day, due to the mountainous terrain and readily available food. Male mountain gorillas usually weigh 195kg with an upright standing height of 168cm. Females stand at 100kg and 140cm. They live primarily on the ground but will climb sturdy trees in pursuit of food.
Mountain gorilla troop dynamics
Mountain gorillas live in troops of up to 20 individuals, made up of one adult male who is usually older than 12 years (often called a ‘silverback’ because of the silver fur on his back), a few adult females and their offspring of various ages. Some troops will have more than one mature male, but only one leader/alpha male. The subordinate male (often called a ‘blackback’, and typically 8–12 years old) plays a backup role and will assume the leadership role if the silverback dies. Both males and females tend to emigrate from their natal groups, with females leaving at an earlier age than males.
The silverback is the troop leader, making all the decisions, mediating conflicts, determining the group’s movements between feeding and resting/sleeping sites, and taking responsibility for the troop’s safety and well-being. The bond that a silverback has with his females forms the core of gorilla social life. Females seek relationships with males for mating rights and for protection against predators (primarily leopards) and outside males (which may kill young gorillas). If a mother dies or leaves the group, the silverback will often look after her abandoned offspring. Experienced silverbacks are known to remove poachers’ snares from the hands or feet of their group members.
The dominant silverback mountain gorilla and one of his female companions attempt to relax in a clearing in the forests of Volcanoes National Park. Their peace is upended by a restless youngster, a tangle of limbs, nips, and mischief. He bites, pulls legs and arms, and tries to evoke playtime, to no avail. Giving up, he sits between his guardians for a sulk
Aggressive encounters between males and females in a troop are rare, but females can act aggressively towards each other (particularly if not related). Conflicts are most often resolved by threat displays intended to intimidate, including hooting, rising onto the legs, throwing of sticks and leaves, chest-beating, kicking with one leg, sideways running on all fours and thumping the ground with the palms.
Rival silverbacks from different troops have been known to kill each other during territorial battles, where they use their huge canines as effective weapons. When a silverback dies, his position in the group may be taken over by one of the younger group males, failing which a new silverback may join the group, often killing all of the infants of the dead silverback.
Mountain gorilla nests, food and reproduction
Mountain gorillas make nests on the ground for daytime resting and for sleeping at night. The nests are made of a loose pile of branches and leaves. Babies sleep with their mothers and start building their own nests when they are about three years old.
Mountain gorillas are vegetarians, eating leaves, stems, pith, and shoots, with fruit making up a small part of their diet. Protein in the form of insects and grubs makes up about 3% of the diet.
A young gorilla is distracted while eating in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park
Mountain gorillas mate year-round, once they reach sexual maturity, which is at the age of 10 to 12 years for females and 11 to 13 years for males. The gestation period lasts 8.5 months, and females can give birth every four years.
Baby mountain gorillas are, like humans, vulnerable and dependent on their mothers for survival. Male gorillas are not active in caring for the young (unless the mother dies), but they do play a role in socialising them with other youngsters and protecting them from aggression within the group. Infants remain in contact with their mothers for the first five months, sleeping in the same nest and suckling at least once per hour during that time. After five months, infants begin to move away from their mothers, gradually gaining independence. By the third year, juveniles are weaned and sleeping in separate nests from their mothers.
Young gorilla baby and mom in Volcanoes National Park
Great communicators
Mountain gorillas use a variety of distinct vocalisations to communicate within their densely forested home. These include grunts and barks while travelling, screams and roars to signal alarm or warning, and rumbling belches of contentment during feeding and resting periods.
Tiny gorilla foot in Virunga
Want to see gorillas on your next African safari? Gorilla trekking has been described by many as a life-changing experience. Browse our top gorilla safaris here.
Gorilla trekking
Despite their size and strength, mountain gorillas are gentle, intelligent creatures whose lives revolve around complex social interactions, quiet routines, and deep familial bonds. Observing them in the wild reveals not only their physical grace but also their emotional depth, as well as how they nurture their young, resolve disputes, and express curiosity or contentment through subtle gestures. These moments of connection are what make gorilla trekking such an extraordinary experience: a rare opportunity to witness one of our closest living relatives living freely, on their own terms, in one of Earth’s last remaining montane rainforests.
The best and most practical places to go mountain gorilla trekking are in the dense, mountainous forests of Rwanda and Uganda. Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park offers the most accessible and luxurious experience, with well-maintained trails and high-end lodges, ideal for travellers short on time. Uganda provides a more immersive and adventurous option in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, while Mgahinga Gorilla National Park provides a quieter alternative with stunning scenery and fewer crowds.
For the truly intrepid, Virunga National Park in the DRC offers a raw and rugged trek (when open for trekking) – best check in with your safari expert before settling on a safari here. Each destination offers its own magic, whether it’s the ease and polish of Rwanda, the jungle depth of Uganda, or the edge-of-the-map thrill of the DRC.
Gorilla trekking in Volcanoes National Park
Final thoughts
There is an uncomfortable paradox unfolding in the mountain gorilla conservation space, which highlights the role that humans play on both sides of the equation. On the one hand, humans pose the greatest threat to gorillas, and, at the same time, humans represent the most viable conservation solution.
Mountain gorilla populations are now slowly trickling upwards, thanks to the dedicated work of so many passionate people on the ground – from locals who live amongst these gentle giants to government conservation agencies, researchers, non-profit entities and paying tourists. Let’s savour this rare victory in the ongoing war to keep Earth’s charismatic species, in fact, all species, safe from extinction.
A mother and baby mountain gorilla rest in Volcanoes National Park
To bring medical support to mountain gorillas, a group of veterinarians brave one of the world’s most dangerous national parks. Read more about Gorilla Doctors here
Mgahinga Gorilla NP, on the forested slopes of 3 extinct volcanoes in Virunga Conservation Area, is an important home to mountain gorillas. Read more about Mgahinga Gorilla NP here
Trekking through the ancient rainforests of Bwindi, Uganda to find mountain gorillas brings Ryan Biller face-to-face with a childhood dream. Read more about his journey walking with gorillas here
Virunga NP offers unparalleled biodiversity. Rain forests, gorillas, endemic birds, bubbling volcanoes, and safari favourites await. Learn about the wonders of Virunga
Volcanoes National Park is a leading gorilla trekking destination in Africa. This volcanic landscape offers stunning scenery & biodiversity. Read more about Volcanoes here
Leopards are Africa’s most enigmatic big cats: silent, solitary, and vanishing fast. Behind their fading presence lies a thriving global industry built on prestige, profit, and skull measurements. According to a damning new report, The Leopard Hunters, the stealthy cat is now squarely in the crosshairs. Despite being listed as a Vulnerable species, leopards are still being legally hunted and exported in large numbers each year.
TheLeopard Hunters report, recently released by the Wildlife & Conservation Foundation and Ban Trophy Hunting, is a look into the global trophy hunting industry’s impact on Africa’s leopards. It reveals the identities of high-profile hunters and the companies that facilitate hunts. It also quantifies the international trade in leopard trophies, and exposes the often illegal methods used to hunt leopards. It also details how governments are enabling this trade, often without the data needed to justify it. Drawing on CITES trade data, industry records, and first-hand accounts, the report uncovers how the pursuit of hunting accolades, such as those awarded by Safari Club International, is accelerating the decline of leopard populations.
The report also explores the ecological consequences of selectively removing dominant animals from the wild. Ultimately, the report calls for a critical reassessment of the industry’s claims to conservation.
In 2023 alone, 709 leopard trophies were exported from Africa by international big game hunters – more than half of them to the United States. This, despite leopards being listed as ‘Vulnerable’ under CITES Appendix I: a conservation red flag that bans trade in these species except under exceptional circumstances. This means that the commercial trade in leopards is forbidden. Legal international trade is limited to hunting trophies and skins under export quotas for range states.
Including Canada and Mexico, North American hunters accounted for 403 trophies (57%). European hunters took home 199 leopard trophies (28%), with significant numbers going to Spain, Germany, France, and Hungary.
From predator to prize
Trophy hunting of leopards, as the report reveals, is a horror show. Tales abound of live duikers wired to trees to lure leopards after dark, wounded animals burned out of warthog burrows by igniting petrol poured into the burrows, wounded animals left to suffer for days at a time, and hunts with bows or handguns. The ethics are questionable; the methods grotesque.
The report details how the big cats are baited – often with zebras shot expressly for the purpose – and then shot from hides. They’re then entered into Safari Club International’s prestigious Record Book by measuring their skulls to the sixteenth of an inch. Hunters can win prizes for ‘Predators of the World’ or collect-them-all accolades such as ‘African 29’ (which requires a hunter to shoot at least 29 different African species to win an award).
Many of the most prominent hunts are arranged through commercial safari operators, some of which offer packages costing over $150,000, bundling leopard hunts with lions, elephants, and other species. At least 63 leopard hunts were on sale on BookYourHunt.com at the time of the report’s release.
A few images of leopard trophy hunts shared by hunting outfitters on social media
Big names killing leopards
The report names high-profile individuals involved in record-breaking kills, including a major donor to Donald Trump, a Spanish trophy hunter who has shot 167 leopards, and a former World Wildlife Fund US director. These and other hunters are celebrated within the Safari Club International (SCI), which incentivises the killing of large animals via a competitive points system and Record Book entries based on skull size. There are currently 2,071 leopards listed in SCI’s Record Book, representing documented kills by trophy hunters
Powerful lobbying organisations like SCI and Conservation Force continue to fight for hunting rights, even overturning trophy import bans in places like New Jersey. This raises concerns about the erosion of conservation policy under private influence.
The genetic price of glory
The bigger the skull, the bigger the brag. But scientists warn this has real consequences. The report criticises the ‘artificial selection’ pressure this creates: removing dominant males from the gene pool, which undermines leopard populations’ ability to adapt to environmental challenges. When the largest, healthiest males are selectively removed, the report suggests this weakens gene pools, reduces resilience to disease and climate change, and accelerates the decline of already vulnerable populations.
In the leopard’s case, numbers are estimated by the report authors to have plummeted by up to 90% over the past 50 years, from an estimated 700,000 in the 1960s to about 50,000 today. The report identifies trophy hunting as a significant driver of this collapse. Some African countries have introduced either permanent (Zambia) or temporary (South Africa) hunting moratoriums in response over the years.
Leopard numbers have plummeted by up to 90% over the past 50 years – from an estimated 700,000 in the 1960s to about 50,000 today, according to the report
Questionable leopard data
One of the most troubling realities is the paradox at the heart of leopard hunting quotas. Despite the leopard’s elusive nature and wide-ranging habitat, which make accurate population estimates notoriously difficult, hunting quotas for the species are often among the most aggressive of any big cat. In some countries, annual export allowances remain high, even as local populations decline. The report raises urgent questions about how these quotas are being set. Without robust, independent, and up-to-date scientific data on leopard numbers, how are governments justifying continued, and in some cases increasing, trophy allocations? The uncomfortable answer may lie in the lobbying influence of hunting organisations and the revenue streams they promise, rather than any defensible conservation science.
A tale of two leopards
And yet, there is hope. The report relays an important case study of a Maasai elder: Boniface Mpario. The veteran Maasai guide tells the story of Mrembo, a leopard he came to know well after spotting it often in the northern Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. The leopard was beloved by tourists, raised cubs under the gaze of telephoto lenses, and became a living asset to her community. One leopard, five daughters, multiple litters – and years of steady ecotourism income.
This is the critical fork in the conservation road: one path leads to dollars earned once from a bullet; the other, to years of revenue from wildlife tourism. One ends in a taxidermy mount, the other in more generations of leopards to come.
So, what now?
The Wildlife & Conservation Foundation has called for an immediate moratorium on leopard trophy hunting. But powerful lobbying groups like Conservation Force and Safari Club International continue to fight for their right to kill with high-calibre rifles.
The continued trophy hunting of leopards, despite mounting conservation concerns, represents a failure of both governance and global wildlife protection systems. It raises uncomfortable questions about whose interests are being served, and at what cost to biodiversity. Without urgent reform, transparent science-based quota systems, and stronger international safeguards, the leopard may join the growing list of species sacrificed for vanity and vague promises of conservation. The time for scrutiny and action is now.
Further reading
Can regulated trophy hunting support conservation in a modern reserve reliant on tourism and wildlife? We explore the case of Timbavati
Is hunting justifiable? Simon Espley explores the ethics & realities of hunting’s impact on conservation, biodiversity, & local communities. Read Simon’s op ed here
Leopards: These breathtakingly beautiful, charismatic, powerful & mysterious creatures are the top request on safari. Learn about them here
Leopards have unique voices. A groundbreaking study shows how researchers can identify these elusive cats by their distinct roars. Read more here
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Can chainsaws save rhinos? + Great Migration guide + Botswana safari thrills
Shifting Baselines is a scary reality that keeps me awake at night. It refers to how each generation accepts the ecological degradation of its lifetime as the new normal. Over time, we forget what the planet was like not that long ago. It is a quiet kind of erasure, an incoming tide, as our species spreads its exclusive-use strategy across Earth.
The term was coined by marine biologist Daniel Pauly in 1995 to describe how fisheries scientists would evaluate the current state of fisheries based on what they witnessed at the beginning of their careers, rather than the untouched, original state. The same could be said of how we treat the remaining equatorial forests, free-roaming lions and migrating birds (I could go on, but hopefully you get my point).
Nowhere is Shifting Baselines better illustrated than with Africa’s elephant populations. Scientists believe that there were as many as 20 million African elephants two centuries ago, 10 million in the 1930s, and approximately 400,000 today. And yet, many in the conservation industry call for the further reduction of elephant populations because there are ‘too many’. Scary indeed.
Your African safari arranged by Africa Geographic helps keep Africa’s wild spaces as they have always been – wild and biodiverse. Safari revenue funds our conservation publishing, and we donate a portion to specific needle-moving conservation projects at ground level. Thank you!
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
And now, for the good news. It has been just over a week since seventy southern white rhinos touched down in Rwanda’s Akagera National Park in one of the largest cross-continental rhino translocations in history. In an awe-inspiring feat of conservation logistics, African Parks and the Rwanda Development Board orchestrated a 3,400km journey from South Africa to Rwanda – involving cranes, crates, trucks, and a Boeing 747. It’s all part of African Parks’ bold Rhino Rewild Initiative to return 2,000 rhino to safe, well-managed protected areas across Africa.
The rhinos began their journey with a stay in KwaZulu-Natal, acclimatising and building immunity to diseases before taking to the skies. After a carefully monitored journey, they’ve arrived in Akagera. They are being closely watched by a vet team to help them settle into their new home. This is a win for rhinos. And it’s a win for wild spaces, visionary conservationists, and the belief that bold ideas can reshape the future. Welcome home, rhinos. Rwanda looks good on you.
In more good rhino news, an excellent Greater Kruger case study shows that dehorning has reduced poaching by 78%. See below. Plus, we bring you the ultimate guide to the Great Migration – everything you need to know for planning your next safari.
Happy exploring!
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Be swept off your feet with wall-to-wall wildlife action on this iconic southern African safari. You’ll visit Greater Kruger to experience the Big 5 and rarer treasures. You’ll also visit South Africa’s mother city, Cape Town, and her winelands. Plus, you’ll experience the wilds of Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park in Botswana; and the majesty of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe – for a once-in-a-lifetime adventure.
This iconic safari combines the wildlife riches of Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park in Botswana with the awe-inspiring majesty of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. First, you’ll visit Khwai to get your predator fix, then move on to Chobe to witness massive herds of elephants and other wildlife along the banks of the Chobe River. Last but not least, the grand finale: witnessing the mighty Zambezi River plunging into the misty gorges below at iconic Victoria Falls.
OUR SAFARI GUESTS SAY…
Here’s what our travellers have to say about their epic journeys through Africa:
Trip of a lifetime. “Extraordinary experience. Every detail was thoughtfully
arranged. I felt taken care of from start to finish. From the breathtaking wildlife to the incredible guides and accommodation, everything exceeded my expectations.” – Virginia, from the USA, travelled with us to Zimbabwe and Botswana
Couldn’t have asked for more! “AG safari expert Benjamin knocked it out of the park! We are the DIY type and have never used a travel agent before, so we were sceptical. Ben took the time to ask all the right questions and tweaked the plan based on our feedback until it was perfect (we didn’t make it easy on him!). The trip was all we dreamed of and more! I can’t recommend this company enough for a once-in-a-lifetime trip.” – David, from Germany, travelled with us to Greater Kruger and Zimbabwe
WATCH: Tsavo Trust is an action-oriented, field-based, Kenyan not-for-profit conservation organisation seeking to secure and protect the Tsavo Conservation Area in Kenya. This short video offers a snapshot of Tsavo Trust’s work on the ground – protecting wildlife, supporting communities, and safeguarding the iconic Tsavo ecosystem through aerial and ground operations, conservation partnerships, and sustainable development initiatives. (06:06) Click here to watch
The Serengeti and Maasai Mara ecosystems see huge herds of wildebeest and zebras migrating in a continuous search for the best food and water. Although this journey follows a similar annual route, exact timing varies, based on rainfall.
When the rains beckon, the wildebeest go. In spite of the big cats in waiting, or the rivers thick with crocodiles, they diligently follow their inner compass in a never-ending circular journey.
An epic river crossing of wildebeest takes place in the Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya
The herds follow a clockwise migration through Tanzania’s Serengeti ecosystem. In February and March, they give birth on the nutrient-rich southern plains, including in and around the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. From there, they move north through Serengeti National Park and the Maswa Game Reserve, with some splintering off into the Grumeti Reserves in April and May, while others continue through the Central Serengeti. By July, the herds converge in the Lamai region along the Mara River, straddling the Kenya-Tanzania border, where dramatic river crossings peak in August and taper off by the end of September or mid-October. Most of the herds do not fully cross into Kenya but linger along the river’s edge. In October, as southern rains begin, the herds start their return journey via the Central Serengeti and the Loliondo Game Controlled Area on the park’s eastern boundary. By December and January, they are back in the south, ready to begin the cycle again.
During the migration, about 250,000 wildebeest and 30,000 zebra die every year as a result of predation by carnivores, drowning, thirst, hunger, and exhaustion.
And following the herds is another migratory species – human safari die-hards, who revel in the drama and magic of this, the Greatest Show on Earth. This is no cookie-cutter African safari, as nature does not keep Swiss time, and even the well-documented river crossings are not predictable as to when and where. In fact, it’s the unpredictability that is the drawcard, and experienced travellers and guides know how to enjoy the many layers of bush life while waiting for the dramatic river crossings and predator action.
A hyena amidst the wildebeest action in Ngorongoro Crater
Follow the Great Wildebeest Migration
Rainfall drives the event, so tracking the herds is not an exact science, but the same general pattern plays out each year.
JANUARY:
Rains in the southern Serengeti plains bring nutrient-rich grass, beckoning the herds to the Ndutu area. If you want to find the wildebeest in January, Naabi Hill and Lobo are the places to look. Many females in the herd are heavily pregnant at this point, and moving towards greener grasses is of top priority. These fertile plains, formed by volcanic activity in the Ngorongoro region, produce short, mineral-rich grasses that thrive during the rainy season but dry up quickly when it ends. Their high nutritional value makes them especially attractive during calving season, when the herds instinctively seek out the best grazing to support their young.
A young wildebeest calf suckles from its mother in Serengeti National Park, Tanzania. For more pics from Subi Sridharan, check out @subisridharan
FEBRUARY:
Every year, half a million wildebeest are born on the Serengeti plains, and February is the month with the highest birthing rate, sometimes seeing as many as 8,000 born each day.
The abundant new grass makes the area around Lake Masek and Lake Ndutu the ideal place for the wildebeest to give birth. The herd will stay put for a while in the southeast Ndutu area after the calves are born, before heading north in a clockwise direction.
Calving season means adorable wobbly babies finding their legs – a bonus for predators, who do not play nicely. If you want to see a wildebeest just hours old, your best chance is to go out at midday when they typically give birth, to allow the babies the time to gain strength before nightfall.
The Serengeti also boasts a particularly healthy lion population, with over 3,000 lions in the reserve. This is of considerable significance when you realise that these big cats are not faring as well across the African continent.
A newborn wildebeest calf
MARCH:
The mobile camps in the Serengeti provide an up-close and personal experience of the migration. You can find the herds in the Ndutu and Kusini Maswa region, in the southwest of the park. Having the babies in tow means they move a bit slower. And be prepared for some afternoon rainfall in March.
APRIL:
If you visit in April, you are going to need your rain jacket. The herds amble from the Ndutu region, past the Simba Kopjes, in the direction of Moru. The herds have now split into large groups, rather than the massive concentrations that stretch as far as the horizon. Simba Kopje is where the lions are, and it’s worth spending some time searching for lions. The wettest part of the day is the evening. The rainfall makes the plains slippery, and vehicles without 4×4 mode will struggle to go anywhere. While some wildebeest herds continue their march through the Central Serengeti, some head further west into Grumeti Reserve.
MAY:
For those wildlife photographers looking for action shots, set your sights on May in the Serengeti. The ‘long rains’ keep on going throughout the month. And as the calves get bigger and stronger, the distances the herd covers get longer. You’ll most likely find them between Moru and Makoma, moving north.
JUNE:
By June, the rains have abated somewhat, and the herds have spread out. The front-runners have already reached the Mbalageti River. But those bringing up the rear could still be as far back as the southernmost corner of the Simiti and Nyamuma Hills. The herds are now often in long lines as they head north.
JULY:
July is mating season in the Serengeti. You can find the herds in the Grumeti Reserve, in the west of the Serengeti, and moving past Fort Ikoma. Crossings of the Grumeti River are worth hanging around for, but this area is vast and relatively underdeveloped with lodges, so river crossings are harder to find.
Additionally, the Grumeti River lacks the volume of water that the Mara River possesses, and its crossings are not as spectacular. The herds graze their way northward as they move toward the Maasai Mara in Kenya. This is a transborder event.
Chaos reigns supreme at the dramatic river crossings
AUGUST: Come August, the herds have made their way up to the northern Serengeti and face their biggest challenge yet: the Mara River. The river flows through the Maasai Mara into the Serengeti. And while the gushing murky waters are captivating, they are also possibly responsible for the highest death toll en route, killing many thousands of wildebeest.
Sometimes the herds plunge en masse off steep banks in their desperate attempts to get across the river, or after being spooked by lions, and the fall alone will kill many individuals. Others drown as they are crushed by the sheer volume of panicking wildebeest trying to scramble up the equally steep banks on the other side. Every death means dinner for crocodiles, birds and fish – such is nature’s bounty.
Dust is kicked up as the wildebeest make their way across the Mara River in Kenya
And amidst the panic, the dust and the noise, the big cats and hyenas pick off the stragglers and the injured. Be warned that aside from the massive herds, the river crossings also attract large volumes of tourists, who congregate at strategic points to witness this spectacle.
There is no class system here, as privately guided wealthy couples in open Land Rovers jostle for the best views with budget backpackers crammed into minivans with pop-up roofs.
A water monitor sits on a dead wildebeest in the Mara River after a migration crossing in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya
SEPTEMBER:
You can catch the tail end of the Mara River crossing or go see the herds out in the vast rolling grasslands of the Maasai Mara, where their numbers are like flies in places. Pack your hat, because the weather will be warm, sunny and dry.
OCTOBER:
Although Mara River crossings can stretch into October, usually this month ushers in a scene of casual grazing in the Maasai Mara. The push is over, and the fresh grass is the reward. For the survivors, that is.
Hyenas overwhelm a wildebeest in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya
NOVEMBER:
What is known as ‘the short rains’ begins in November, triggering another move, as the herds leave Kenya and move south to western Loliondo and the Lobo area in Serengeti National Park. Whether it rains in November or not is nature’s call. But pack some extra jerseys for the cooler weather. At this point, the herds organise themselves into smaller family groups and get on with the serious business of grazing.
DECEMBER:
By December, the herds are back in the south of Serengeti and towards Ngorongoro Conservation Area, and the first act begins all over again.
A calm scene of grazing wildebeest in Ngorongoro Conservation Area
River Crossings
When people say they’ve come to see the Great Migration, they often mean they have come to see the river crossings. Watching the wildebeest hurl themselves into the water, one after the other, in a flurry of panic, sends a surge of adrenaline through the most seasoned bush-junkie. Watch this dramatic video of a Mara River crossing.
An unlucky wildebeest is targeted by a crocodile during a river crossing
The river crossings are the scenes we’ve all watched on Planet Earth – the chaotic clamber of wildebeests, zebras and a few antelope species across turbulent crocodile-infested waters. And then, of course, you have the lions waiting amongst the riverine shrubs to ambush unsuspecting victims. For those of us with limited time and rudimentary camera equipment, it can be challenging to capture the full impact of thundering hooves, the frantic urgency to get to the other side and the drama of predations. Sometimes, the best strategy is to put the camera down and watch and absorb the drama unfolding before you.
Avoiding the tourists
Avoiding tourists is somewhat of a sport in the Serengeti and Maasai Mara, particularly during the peak safari season. If you are the tourist who skips the Eiffel Tower and seeks out that artisan cheese store in the back alleys of Paris, then perhaps give the Mara River crossings a miss, and opt for the vast herds visible in other areas during the green season.
Peak season crowds are a common sight at river crossing points
The rainy season, from late March to late May, offers up a less crowded Serengeti, as the herds move into the western part of the park. The mass of animals moving across the plains is captivating, but what you are really on the lookout for is a hunt. And the open plains give you prime viewing.
Moving away from the herds and following a pride of lions has its own bittersweet rewards. The predators face struggles of their own out on the plains: defending their territories, protecting their cubs, and nursing the battle wounds from a particularly hard hunt.
Just because it is the rainy season doesn’t mean it will rain. And if it does, it might not be a continual downpour. Again, the whims of the wild. As a bonus, catching the lodge off-season means less pricey accommodation.
Vast Serengeti plains dotted with wildebeest, and a cheetah surveying the scene
Avoiding tourists is more of a challenge in the Mara; the reserve is smaller and as soon as the herds arrive, so do the crowds. The trick here is to stay in one of the private conservancies bordering the reserve. They are close enough to make day trips to see the herds doable, and it means fewer crowds back at camp. These private conservancies can offer activities not permitted in the parks, such as night drives and bush walks.
Decide what you want to see the most: this will impact the timing and location of your visit. Broadly, the choices are river crossings, massive herds as far as the eye can see or calving. You will enjoy predator action at all times.
Choose your lodge carefully because easy access to the herds is vital. You don’t want to spend hours getting to and from the best locations, eating the dust behind a long line of other vehicles.
If you seek privacy and exclusive wildlife encounters during the migration, choose a lodge in one of the conservancies neighbouring the parks. Alternatively, consider visiting during the ‘secret season’.
A successful crossing
The Closing Curtain
If you think about it, the wildebeest is a rather understated animal, zoomed past on most safaris to get to something ‘more exciting’. It’s rather awesome that there is a show that puts them on the centre stage. And, with a bit of planning ahead, the front row seats are yours.
Wildebeest avoid an irate hippo, Maasai Mara National Reserve
Resources
The vast Serengeti in northern Tanzania is home to an extraordinary amount of wildlife and plays host to the greatest show on Earth – the Great Migration. Read more about Serengeti National Park here
Safari report-back: Simon Espley’s luxury Serengeti safari during the wildebeest migration brought drama, excitement, awe and wonder. Check out Simon’s report on Serengeti here
Ngorongoro Conservation Area, centred on Tanzania’s famous crater, is a spectacular safari destination of abundant wildlife & ancient history. Read more about Ngorongoro here
This interesting introduction to Kenya’s Maasai Mara will have you contacting Africa Geographic to book your next African safari. Read more about Maasai Mara here
In the world of conservation, few animals carry the burden of celebrity quite like the rhino. The rhino is a walking target: its horn is falsely believed by a distant market to cure cancer and other ailments, and is also considered a status symbol in these markets. And despite decades of boots on the ground, drones in the sky, and millions of dollars spent on anti-poaching, the grim scoreboard of poaching keeps ticking up. But what if the best way to save a rhino is to cut off its horns? Is a chainsaw the most effective tool in saving rhinos? A new study on rhino dehorning suggests so
A team of scientists and conservationists from southern Africa has just delivered a jarring research report on rhino protection. By pooling expertise and data across multiple reserves, the report aimed to provide a clearer picture of how dehorning influences rhino behaviour, ecology, and conservation outcomes.
Their study, published in Science, lays it out in stark terms: Dehorning rhinos by surgically removing their horns – a painless procedure – was the only intervention that consistently reduced poaching across 11 major reserves in the Greater Kruger ecosystem (a stronghold that protects 27% of all of Africa’s rhinos). And the strategy proved dramatically effective.
A dehorned black rhino in Greater Kruger
The numbers game: guns, dogs, and dollars
Over a seven-year period (2017–2023), 1,985 rhinos were killed in the very areas that are supposed to be the last bastions of safety. That’s around 6.5% of the population annually – a slow bleed in the life expectancy of a species. This, according to the Kuiper et al study spearheaded by the Greater Kruger Environmental Protection Foundation (GKEPF). To better understand the long-term impacts of dehorning on rhinos, GKEPF established a collaborative research project involving reserve managers, field rangers, and scientists from the University of Cape Town, Nelson Mandela University, Stellenbosch University, and the University of Oxford. This multi-institutional effort was further supported by key conservation bodies, including South African National Parks (SANParks), WWF South Africa, and the Rhino Recovery Fund.
The project was initially conceived by those working on the frontlines of rhino conservation and was driven by Sharon Haussmann, CEO of GKEPF, who tragically died less than a week before the study results were published (leaving the researchers to dedicate this project to her).
Recognising the need to assess the effectiveness of their significant investments in anti-poaching tools, such as tracking dogs and AI-enabled surveillance, GKEPF set out to evaluate whether these interventions were truly making an impact.
To combat rhino poaching, reserves poured roughly US$74 million into traditional antipoaching tactics: ranger teams, canine units, fences, infrared cameras, and even polygraph tests (5,562 of them). This resulted in over 700 poacher arrests. Unfortunately, this high-tech, high-cost effort showed no clear statistical effect on reducing poaching (although one could argue that, without these interventions, numbers could’ve soared even more).
Teams on the ground are up against a giant: organised criminal syndicates move faster than the justice system. Arrested poachers walk free. And insiders often leak information, for example, through the advance notice of patrol movements. High-risk poaching remains prevalent, driven by “horn demand, wealth inequality, embedded criminal syndicates, and corruption,” says the study. In this world of wildlife crime, enforcement is a leaky bucket. So, what actually worked?
A recently dehorned white rhino and calf
The rhino in the room
Enter rhino dehorning: a blunt, counterintuitive solution. By removing the primary motivation for the kill – the horn – experts are dramatically reducing the reward for the crime.
Across the eight reserves that implemented rhino dehorning (dehorning 2,284 rhinos in total), poaching plummeted by an average of 78%. The data showed it wasn’t just a correlation; it was a causal, abrupt change. Rhino killings didn’t slowly decline: they dropped off immediately after the horns were removed. No other intervention came close.
Even at the level of individual rhinos, the difference was staggering: horned individuals had a 13% chance of being poached annually, compared to just 0.6% for their dehorned counterparts. On average, dehorning all rhinos on a reserve reduced poaching by ~75% from pre-dehorning levels.
Significantly, the cost of this intervention weighed in at a low US$570 per rhino operation to conduct the dehorning, less than 2% of the total antipoaching budget. In a world of limited conservation funding, lower-cost solutions are imperative.
Dehorning all rhinos on a reserve reduced poaching by ~75% from pre-dehorning levels
The fine print on rhino dehorning: not a silver bullet
Of course, rhino dehorning is not without caveats. Rhino horns regrow, meaning dehorning must be repeated every 18 months. In some areas – particularly Kruger National Park – even dehorned rhinos were still poached. In total, 111 dehorned rhinos were still poached during the study period (107 of these were poached in Kruger NP between 2022–2023). This is because up to 15cm of horn remains after the procedure, as veterinarians must leave a protective layer to avoid damaging the sensitive growth plate at the base of the horn. Even a stub of horn holds black-market value, and Kruger National Park’s porous border with Mozambique offers easy syndicate access. Furthermore, only between 50–55% of rhinos in Kruger National Park are dehorned.
Moreover, there’s the philosophical and ecological question: What does it mean to keep a rhino hornless? So far, research suggests little negative impact on survival, but the long-term consequences, particularly behavioural ones, are still murky. One study suggested that dehorning black rhinos significantly reduces their home range size and weakens social interactions, especially between males. These behavioural changes could have long-term hidden impacts on reproduction, territory use, and population dynamics.
Another consideration is that, as evidence suggests, dehorning rhinos in one area may simply shift poaching pressure to regions where rhinos remain horned, as seen in Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park in 2022, South Africa’s second-largest rhino stronghold. However, in 2024, Hluhluwe-iMfolozi embarked on a major dehorning operation which also saw a reduction in rhino poaching.
A dehorning operation in Greater Kruger
Rethinking the war on rhino poaching
While this study suggests more effective impacts from rhino dehorning, it doesn’t argue against traditional interventions, but rather calls for a multi-pronged approach. Ranger patrols, tracking dogs, community support, and aerial surveillance still matter, particularly as a backup plan. But if the goal is to stop poaching before the bullet is fired, then removing horns might work better than pursuing transgressors.
And perhaps that’s the real takeaway: conservation is messy. It’s not always romantic. Sometimes, it involves a chainsaw. But if the trade-off is between a hornless rhino and no rhino at all, then the choice becomes heartbreakingly simple.
Want to go on a rhino-seeking safari? Browse our top safaris showcasing the Big 5. Or longing to visit Kruger? Check out our ready-made safaris to Greater Kruger. Alternatively, we’ll help you plan your tailor-made rhino safari.
We have a winner! The Winners’ Gallery for Photographer of the Year 2025 is now live. Check it out below
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And the winner is…
After months of breathtaking entries and inspired storytelling, our Photographer of the Year 2025 journey has come to a close. From 6,738 submissions, 349 extraordinary images were chosen and featured in 23 galleries – each a window into authentic Africa.
This year’s winners will join us on an exclusive AG safari to Camp Imbalanga in Odzala-Kokoua National Park, Congo-Brazzaville, where they’ll see critically endangered western lowland gorillas and explore one of Africa’s most pristine rainforests.
Congratulations to our Photographer of the Year 2025 winner, runners-up and highly commended finalists, whose images moved us deeply. We applaud you all for your exceptional skill and captures. For those who didn’t make it through, know that we didn’t reach this selection easily – this boiled down to weeks of deliberation and more than a few sleepless nights.
Thank you to our incredible community of photographers – you’ve once again captured the soul of Africa. Check out the gallery below.
For those adventurers among you gripped with wanderlust and keen to head out to experience the best of Africa, check out our 5 incredible safari ideas below.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Embark on a rainforest adventure into the heart of Odzala-Kokoua NP. Encounter western lowland gorillas, forest elephants, bongos & flocks of grey parrots in a truly remote African wilderness.
Pamper yourself with a luxury safari to the Makgadikgadi Pans, northern Okavango Delta & Moremi. Revel in lavishly appointed lodges, creature comforts, helicopter flights, superb cuisine & epic wildlife sightings
This safari makes a difference at ground level. Enjoy spectacular wildlife viewing, go on bush walks, visit a rhino conservation project, & help keep Hwange’s vital waterholes full, while visiting secluded lodges.
Safari to Kenya’s 3 most iconic destinations. Big 5 encounters, the Great Wildebeest Migration, huge elephant tuskers in Amboseli & the ‘Samburu Special 5’. This safari is packed with daily activities, including for kids
Explore the predator-rich areas of Hwange, Mana Pools, Linyanti in Chobe, & Khwai in search of wild dogs. The Painted Dog Conservation Centre, game drives, helicopter flips & a trip to Victoria Falls await
And the winner is… After many months of jaw-dropping submissions, endless deliberation, and animated debate, we are proud to announce the winners of Photographer of the Year 2025.
This year, a theme emerged as if directed by nature itself – motion. Whether it was a lanner falcon swooping through a cloud of startled finches, a spoonbill shaking off water droplets during a bath, the quiet gaze of a gorilla following the flight of a butterfly, or a leopard shaking off a summer rainstorm, our photographers captured fleeting moments of action frozen in time.
Thank you to our generous partners for this year’s competition, Ukuri and African Parks, for supporting this celebration of Africa. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy an Africa Geographic safari exploring the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here.
A note from our CEO
What a thrilling ride this year’s competition has been!
Each photograph told a story not just of wildlife, but of momentum – the visceral energy of survival, the grace of instinct, the surprise of interaction. We saw a red-headed finch escape by mere inches, a gorilla mesmerised by a butterfly, and predators in moments of power and pause.
We are reminded again that wild moments are not staged. They happen in an instant – and then they’re gone. Our photographers, with grit, patience and skill, managed to catch these rare slices of time.
Artificial Intelligence is now part of the post-processing toolkit, yes – but let’s be clear: we do not accept AI-generated imagery. What we celebrate here is real Africa, captured by real people, in real time.
To all who entered, thank you. Your images show what is possible when passion meets purpose. In a world of digital illusions, your photographs are a testament to authenticity, dedication, and love for our wild continent.
Christina’s photograph is a masterclass in simplicity and timing. A crystal-clear leopard mid-shake, scattering a halo of water droplets, is framed by the sinuous lines of the tree. Captured in the middle of a rainstorm, the image balances chaos and calm with grace. The composition is beautifully controlled – the leopard’s one open, focused eye draws the viewer inward, anchoring the swirling spray and lending the photo a rare intimacy. The colour palette – rich greens and browns, golden fur, flashes of white water – reflects the storm-soaked bushveld in high contrast. The chosen angle, directly in the eyeline of the leopard, places the viewer in quiet proximity. This is not only a perfectly timed shot but a deeply evocative one. Every element – light, form, motion and mood – works in harmony to create a photograph that is both technically exceptional and emotionally resonant. A truly stunning image.
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Christina says: “We spotted the leopard sleeping in a tree and decided to wait. After a long period of suspense, with my finger on the camera’s shutter release, the leopard suddenly lifted its head and shook the water from its wet fur. Within seconds, the still life turned into an explosion of water droplets, in the middle of which the alert eye of the big cat seemed to be looking directly into my camera aperture. The picture was taken on one of my first safaris, which sparked my passion for wildlife photography. I only realised later what a rare moment I was able to capture with this photo. Even today, after numerous wonderful photo trips to various African countries, this moment is still one of my photography highlights. My thanks go to my fantastic guides, Bernhard and Hennie.”
About photographer Christina Schwenck
Born in Kassel, Germany, Christina is a clinical psychologist. In her spare time, she explores wild corners of Africa with a camera in hand. Her travels have taken her to South Africa, Kenya, Botswana, Namibia, Tanzania and Uganda. Wildlife photography is her mindfulness – a meditative exercise in patience, observation, and reverence for the natural world.
Frozen in time, this image is pure adrenaline. The lanner falcon’s laser focus, the blur of escaping finches, the proximity of near-capture – it all culminates in a jaw-dropping display of nature’s fine margins. Ernest’s technical daring (that razor-thin depth of field!) paid off magnificently.
The lanner falcon is suspended mid-air in perfect profile, its wings slicing the frame with predatory intent. The falcon is etched in crisp detail – from the subtle curves of its wing coverts to the fine stippling around the eye. The red-headed finch, moments from capture, twists just out of reach, its escape rendered in a blur. The scattering flock, each bird flaring off in a different direction, adds a burst of chaos to the composition – a dynamic counterpoint to the falcon’s frozen form. It’s an image of pure tension and elegant violence – a cinematic moment distilled into a single frame.
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Ernest says: “The moment I saw my first lanner falcon hunt in Kgalagadi back in January 2017, I was captivated. The sheer speed of the strike ignited a photographic quest: to capture that precise instant a falcon intercepts its prey in mid-air. Seven years, and thousands of attempts later, I finally achieved a photo I’m truly proud of. This photo was taken in December 2024 during a five-day holiday at Polentswa Campsite in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. The dry conditions at Polentswa attracted abundant birdlife to the waterhole, creating prime hunting opportunities for juvenile lanner falcons. I committed several hours each morning and afternoon to photograph their aerial pursuits.
Using a Canon R6MK II and a Canon EF 400mm f2.8 MK II lens, I opted for a high-risk, high-reward strategy. By setting the aperture to f2.8, I leveraged the full-frame sensor to achieve an exceptionally shallow depth of field, creating that striking background blur that isolates the subjects. While many would have played it safe with a larger aperture, this choice was crucial to the success of the photograph. What truly makes this photo for me is the raw intensity in the lanner falcon’s expression as the red-headed finch, by a mere whisker, dodges a bitter fate and escapes the falcon’s deadly talons.”
About photographer Ernest Porter
A professional wildlife photographer and guide from Johannesburg, Ernest’s passion for wildlife began during childhood visits to Kruger. Fresh out of high school in 2010, he sacrificed three electric guitars and an amplifier for his first starter-bundle camera. Thereafter, he spent years honing his skills at Walter Sisulu Botanical Gardens, photographing the resident Verraux’s “eagles.”
His first visit to Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in 2017 was love at first sight; he’s returned countless times since. A multiple Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year finalist, he now leads photo safaris and inspires others to find awe in the African wild.
The gorilla’s gaze is fixed, entranced, as an orange butterfly – the same hue as its eyes – flits into frame. The moody forest lighting forms a delicate canvas for this flash of colour. A breathtaking image of curiosity and stillness.
What makes this image truly extraordinary is its emotional and visual symmetry. The gorilla, momentarily transfixed, halts all movement to observe the delicate flutter of the butterfly – a reaction so human in its wonder that it bridges the perceived divide between species. The matching amber tones of the gorilla’s eyes and the butterfly’s wings form a visual echo that ties subject to subject in quiet reverence. Bold in colour, rich in mood, and timeless in emotional impact.
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Mary says: “It was a day defined by quiet connections. Beneath the lush canopy of Bwindi, I observed a young female gorilla gently nestled against the protective bulk of a silverback. The atmosphere was serene, filled with gentle sounds of the forest, until a sudden burst of delicate color broke through the calm. An unexpected visitor, a vibrant butterfly, appeared out of nowhere, fluttering gently through the air. Captivated, the young gorilla’s eyes widened, and in that moment, a beautiful interaction unfolded as a silent, shared wonder between two vastly different beings. I held my breath, hoping the butterfly would drift ever closer. The butterfly danced gracefully around the gorilla. This photograph captures not just the gorilla’s gentle curiosity but also a brief, beautiful moment where two creatures paused, noticing each other, bound by wonder and discovery.”
About photographer Mary Schrader
Based in San Diego, California, Mary’s roots in theatrical design and visual storytelling give her wildlife photography a narrative depth. Mary has photographed wildlife across the globe, from Africa’s golden plains to the icy stillness of the Arctic. But it’s the quiet moments – glances, gestures, pauses – that captivate her. Mary’s work honours the untamed and tells stories of connection. When not in the field, she’s home editing photos with coffee and a cat by her side.
This image captures an extraordinary moment of raw power and timing. The composition is tight and theatrical – one warthog lunging low, the other bracing mid-charge, their eyes locked in fierce intent. The suspended dust, side-lit by warm bush light, adds dramatic texture and depth. A rare action shot. Warthog behaviour is seldom captured with such clarity and tension. The elongated tusks of both males are striking, underscoring the danger and grit of this encounter. One warthog, caught mid-lunge, seems to be sliding through a cloud of earth, while the other holds his ground with legs anchored and head poised, preparing to absorb the assault. Their glaring eyes are intently focused on their opponents. The contrast between the motion-blurred dust and the razor-sharp rendering of the warthogs adds a cinematic quality to the scene. The lighting is particularly remarkable: a pocket of golden bushveld glow illuminates the fighters, carving them out against an otherwise gloomy sky. A bold and immersive image that stands out for its action, light, and visceral composition.
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Alex says: “These warthogs were very large and very powerful – and fighting for prime territory around a waterhole in the dry season. The fight went on and on, neither combatant wanting to give in, and, as they seemed well matched, it was as much a battle of wills as of strength. Neither wanted to concede. They drifted further and further away until, finally, one gave up and ran off, still pursued by the victor. I think I was as exhausted, due to the excitement of the spectacle, as they were.”
About photographer Alex Appleby
A computer programmer from Norfolk, UK, Alex is enthralled by the rawness of wildlife photography. Africa, with its unparalleled diversity, draws her back again and again. Her images seek to reflect behaviour, essence, and the emotion of action. Alex views photography as a way to strip away worries and focus on the now.”
A sublime study in focus and restraint. The detail in the lion’s eye – its glassy reflection, the mirrored sky, the curve of lashes – is mesmerising. The shallow focus isolates that unforgettable gaze, and the golden fur is rendered with exquisite sharpness – every strand visible and warmly lit. Exceptional control of light and composition. The lion’s iris, captured in such crisp detail, resembles a celestial sphere – a planetary disc orbiting a pupil, with soft cloud forms and light reflections creating an almost cosmic depth. A closer look reveals a tick, and a fly, beneath the eye, tiny intrusions into this otherwise serene moment, reminding us of the reality of life in the bushveld.
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Benjamin says: “Lions are so widely photographed that it’s often difficult to get a unique image of one. I’d been trying to take a unique image of a lion for a long time, when the perfect opportunity presented itself. Whilst out on a drive, we were lucky enough to find a pride of lions sleeping in the grass. This large male lion stood up and walked so close to our game drive vehicle, that I had to stop down to f10 to get the whole eye in focus. I wanted to capture the reflection in its eye to have a ‘lion’s-eye view’. I was very pleased to come away with this capture.”
About photographer Benjamin Loon
At only 18 years old, Benjamin is already creating standout wildlife imagery. Raised in a small bushveld town in South Africa, he transitioned from macro to wildlife photography and spends every free moment in the field. His work aims to draw attention to moments in nature that too often go unnoticed – and his talent ensures we won’t miss them.
A photograph of sculptural power and patience. The low light, and rich tones of mud, blood, and marsh create a striking scene. Compositionally, the figures are central and rising – the lion, all sinew and claws, the buffalo, braced and bewildered – captured with clarity under fading light.
This image unfolds like a myth – the lion and buffalo appear to erupt from the earth itself, their forms fused in motion and tension. The lion, slick with marsh mud, clings to the buffalo’s back, expression focused. The buffalo’s bloodied snout and heaving form anchor the frame, resistance in the face of conflict. The lion’s decision to go it alone after hours of failed attempts adds another layer of narrative weight to the image: a story of solitude, persistence, and instinct-driven determination. This is poetry in motion – primal, powerful, and unforgettable.
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Eric says: “We spotted a group of five lions in the marsh, a little way off from us. Their behaviour was unusual, going back and forth into the water in between rests on drier ground. We realised they were trying to chase a buffalo to a more favourable location for hunting, while the buffalo was determined to stay sheltered in the marsh. The lions were exhausted after hours of struggling in the muddy terrain. Occasionally, they would all but disappear into the mud. After three hours, there was no change in the situation, and shooting conditions deteriorated as we began to lose light. We were about to head back to camp, when we saw a determined lion heading towards the buffalo. After a slow progression into the marsh, the lion was no longer visible. But suddenly, he jumped onto the buffalo’s back.
Thanks to my 600mm f/4L lens, I was able to properly focus to shoot a series of images. At 7pm, the light had already disappeared, and I was shooting at high ISO and low speed. After a struggle, the buffalo eventually moved out of the marsh with the lion on its back. At that point, the delegation of lions brought him down.”
About photographer Eric Coiffier
Eric studied biology and has always been interested in nature and ecology. He spent years photographing landscapes and street scenes in black and white before turning to wildlife. Now a globe-trotting nature photographer, he’s especially drawn to polar regions and Africa. His approach pairs scientific curiosity with artistic minimalism – capturing emotion and motion in stark natural frames.
A perfect storm of mood and movement. Hannes’ signature skill in using desert dust as atmosphere is evident here – the hazy silhouettes of thorn trees, the grainy sky, and the faint ghost of heat. The composition leans into narrative – the male’s surprise, the female’s defiance, both isolated by the natural vignette of swirling sand.
This is a visual standoff forged in grit and tension. The lioness stands firm in the foreground, her body coiled in a growl, daring the larger male to close the gap. He appears momentarily taken aback – leaning slightly, his ears pinned, caught between aggression and caution. The confrontation is quietly explosive, and it’s this restraint that makes the image so powerful. The earthy light, filtered through the storm, lends a whimsical tone to the entire scene, like pigment brushed across canvas.
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Hannes says: “The male’s powerful presence commanded the surrounding territory, and no other lion dared to approach, knowing well that his dominance keeps all rivals at bay. The air was thick with tension as the lioness made her stance clear. Yet, the male remained close, unwilling to relinquish control.
About photographer Hannes Lochner
An iconic name in African wildlife photography, Hannes is a multi-award-winning professional wildlife photographer. Hannes is known for his long stints in the Kalahari and his striking use of light and motion. Hannes has produced five magnificent photographic collections, three of which were dedicated entirely to the Kalahari. To achieve this, he lived in the Kalahari for six years, where he spent hundreds of hours capturing inspiring images of this captivating landscape and its enigmatic inhabitants.
Hannes is extraordinarily talented at image composition and the interplay of various light conditions. His pictures show the essence of the landscape and its animals while telling their stories. His passion for art ensures that his pictures stand out from the work of conventional wildlife photographers. His skills enable him to produce work that attracts great attention continuously. Hannes is also passionate about passing on his knowledge.
He has earned international accolades, and his work reflects deep observation, patience, and a storytelling instinct honed in the wild.
An iconic subject captured with refined perspective. Jordan’s use of vertical space and compositional scale showcases Boswell’s acrobatics while emphasising the immense sweep of the Zambezi Valley. The soft golden light, and placement of Boswell’s frame dwarfed beneath the mashatu tree, root this scene in dry-season elegance. A timeless portrait of a legend. This is not just a photograph of a well-known elephant. It is a celebration of behavioural wonder, of ecological context, and of the delicate balance between strength and poise.
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Jordan says: “Boswell is without a doubt the biggest celebrity in Mana Pools, a big bull elephant who stands on his hind legs to reach nutritious green leaves, particularly in the dry season. Whilst he is not the only elephant to display this behaviour in the Zambezi Valley, he’s known for his gentle nature around both humans and herds of elephants, at times using his special technique to pull down branches, allowing them to feed when food within their reach is scarce.
We were told that Boswell hadn’t been seen for six days – then he walked straight through camp. As he passed us, we hopped into the vehicle and followed him before getting out and continuing on foot, where we watched as he stood up no less than six times as the sun was setting! Sometimes the wild just surprises you with the most magical moments imaginable, and it’s a case of being at the right place at the right time.”
About photographer Jordan Fry
A childhood fascination with nature documentaries turned into a photographic journey across Africa. Jordan has always been captivated by African wildlife, ranging from mega to microfauna and how they all contribute their own important role within an ecosystem. Originally from the UK, Jordan trained as a guide in South Africa and has returned to the continent frequently since. His images aim to capture raw beauty and ignite deeper conversations about conservation and connection.
A study in camouflage and contrast. Marcio’s image draws the eye with its painterly palette – burnt rust, ochres, and pale desert light – echoed flawlessly in the chameleon’s colour shift. The balance between natural form and human artefact offers a layered composition rich in texture, visual rhythm, and ecological commentary. The chameleon’s textured skin mirrors the mottled rust of the corroded metal pipe it’s climbing, down to the subtle flecks of red and orange. Compositionally, the frame is minimal yet impactful. The arid landscape offers little distraction, allowing the viewer to focus on the fine interplay of colour, light, and form.
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Marcio says: “This photo was taken on a windy morning in the Namib Desert. The chameleon found brief shelter beside a rusty can, and I was struck by how its changing colours mimicked the corroded metal. Estimates suggest that an aluminium can take 200 to 500 years to decompose in the environment.”
About photographer Marcio Lisa
Brazilian photographer Marcio Lisa fell in love with Africa during a 2012 National Geographic assignment. With over 40 trips to the continent behind him, visiting 13 countries, his work focuses on visual storytelling rooted in conservation. His eye for detail and pattern brings a signature aesthetic to even the harshest environments.
A stark reminder of life and death. What makes this image exceptional is its duality. On one level, it is a straightforward portrayal of a kill – raw, wild and essential. But Marina’s composition elevates the moment to something more reflective. The serene look on the dik-dik’s face, the three cheetahs clutching together and sharing their prize, the quiet symmetry of their position – all contribute to a composition of haunting beauty. This is a triumph for the young cheetahs, a moment of instinct realised, but the story is told with restraint and poetry rather than brutality. The choice of black and white removes the distraction of blood and colour, allowing the viewer to focus on form. A difficult scene to photograph, and harder still to portray with such empathy and visual grace. A remarkable piece of storytelling.
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Marina says: “Three young cheetah brothers, caught in a moment of instinct and learning, hold a dik-dik in their jaws. Despite the tension, there’s poetry in the prey’s face, a quiet contrast to the intensity of the hunters.”
About photographer Marina Cano
Marina Cano is a Spanish wildlife photographer with over 25 years of experience, including two decades dedicated to nature photography. Her evocative, intimate style has earned her international acclaim, including features on the cover of National Geographic and multiple photography awards.
A Canon Europe, Banana Republic Wildlife, and Skylum Global Ambassador, Marina was named Doctor Honoris Causa in Bogotá in 2023 for her contributions to conservation through photography. She has published four wildlife books, served on international photography juries, and represented Spain in the World Photographic Cup for three years.
A graceful composition of scale and serenity. The elephant’s wrapped trunk adds dynamic shape to the otherwise still scene, while the muted layers of mountain and cloud give a soft grandeur. The road leading toward Kilimanjaro draws the eye, inviting us into the frame. Iconic, timeless, and evocative. The bull elephant, in musth and well-weathered, pauses to test the air, his trunk coiled in a fluid, almost sculptural knot. That gesture, full of purpose and grace, injects a sense of motion into the still, muted palette.
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Nili says: “It was mid-morning in Amboseli National Park, and the snowy peak of Mount Kilimanjaro was wrapped in clouds. Herds of elephants began their march into the park, heading for the Ol Tukai swamps to feed on the soft reeds and get relief from the sweltering heat. A few bull elephants had come into musth after the severe drought. This bull was one of them, trailing the herds. One herd had just crossed the road in front of us, and this bull was following right behind them. Just before he crossed the road, he stopped on the edge, smelling the air. That is the moment I captured this iconic image of an elephant bull and Mount Kilimanjaro. Two of Africa’s icons.”
About photographer Nili Gudhka
Kenyan-born and raised, Nili traded a corporate career for a life among the wild. Today, this wildlife photographer now spends her days tracking leopards, studying elephants, and planning safaris. Her photography is rooted in deep love for her homeland and a desire to show Africa’s raw, majestic truth.
Aerial storytelling at its finest. Roan’s composition distills strategy into still-life – the trough a frame within the frame, the hartebeest oblivious, casting long shadows as they march. The parched terrain speaks volumes, and the high angle insight. A tactical image full of tension and anticipation. From above, we see the dusty, cracked expanse of Tsavo East laid bare: no water, no foliage, no movement save that of the hartebeest. The composition is simple, yet rich with narrative. The aerial perspective transforms the scene into a tactical diagram, a blueprint of ambush. The casual, unaware posture of the hartebeest trio adds to the building tension — we know what they don’t. It’s a rare and privileged view into predator-prey dynamics, framed with discipline and a documentarian’s eye.
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Roan says: “This shot was taken during a routine anti-poaching patrol from my fixed-wing aircraft. Flying low and slow, I get to see some pretty incredible sights, which I capture by flying with my knees while shooting out of the window. Below me, a lioness was tucked deep into a dry water trough, barely visible, waiting in ambush. In the distance, a herd of hartebeest marched steadily toward the waterhole. I’d seen her try and fail with zebras earlier on. As the herd approached, she launched from the trough in a cloud of dust, closing the gap in seconds, only to miss her final pounce by a fraction.”
About photographer Roan Carr-Hartley
A conservationist, pilot, and field operator with the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, Roan spends his days flying across East Africa in support of wildlife protection. He spends his days flying over remote wilderness, tracking poachers, rescuing injured animals, and supporting teams on the ground. Photography has become his way of recording the remarkable – and often heart-pounding – encounters he experiences from the air and ground.
A display of motion captured with grace and clarity. The monochrome treatment elevates the image, making each droplet shimmer against the dark water and background. The spoonbill’s pose – wings part-lifted, feathers radiant – is frozen at just the right second to reveal its quiet splendour. Spoonbills are often overlooked in the avian spotlight, their beauty subtle and behaviour reserved. But here, Tania has transformed a fleeting, everyday movement – a bird shaking off water – into something ethereal and unforgettable. The photo captures the spoonbill mid-rinse, wings delicately lifted, droplets arcing in crystalline clarity around its body. Every feather glows under a shaft of light that carves through the darkness, creating a sublime contrast between illuminated plumage and the murky water below.
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Tania says: “I wanted to highlight the elegance and raw energy of the moment – the droplets, the pose, the contrast. The spoonbill was mid-bath. I knew this shot had to be in monochrome to enhance its mood and drama.”
About photographer Tania Cholwich
Tania is a South African wildlife photographer with a passion for storytelling through motion. Africa runs in her veins, and wildlife is central to her work. With a strong conservation ethic and artistic eye, she captures raw, authentic and action-filled moments that inspire deeper connection with the wild.
A moody, intimate portrait of one of Africa’s rarest giants. The shallow depth of field and soft directional light bring out every crease and flake of mud on the elephant’s skin. The central eye contact – sharp and yellow-green – pierces the forest gloom, grounding the image in emotional intensity. A masterfully composed close encounter. The forest elephant, often elusive and rarely photographed this clearly, emerges from the darkness like a spectre: its skin slick with mud. The splash of pale earth on its trunk adds contrast and narrative, suggesting a recent rub against moss-covered trees, an interaction with its rainforest world. It stares directly into the lens, confrontational and vulnerable. The image’s dark edit is a bold creative choice that heightens the contrast between form and texture. That this scene was captured in Gabon’s Loango National Park, a place of profound biodiversity but relatively few wildlife photographs, makes it even more powerful.
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Turgay says: “Forest elephants are perceived as much more aggressive than their savannah cousins, especially outside their forest homes, where they are downright hostile. I experienced their hostility first-hand in Gabon. In the fading daylight, I had been busy photographing another local species, the rosy bee-eater, when I noticed some forest elephants venturing out of the forest to graze. They soon went back into the forest. Assuming that the sighting was over, I started to pack away my camera gear when one of them charged out of the forest and headed directly to our vehicle. My driver was justifiably concerned and started to whisk us away as quickly as possible. I was seated in the back row and managed to take a few shots with the only camera I had, and with no chance to adjust my settings. Suddenly, the elephant decided its message had been received, abandoned the mock charge, and turned around and trotted back into the safety of its forest home. This image is what I saw from the back of the vehicle.”
About photographer Turgay Uzer
Turgay began dabbling in film photography at a young age. A retired physics professor turned globetrotting wildlife photographer, Turgay’s passion spans the African savannah to the icy wilds of South Georgia. His favourite travel destinations are Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park, Botswana’s Okavango Delta, and Brazil’s Pantanal, among others. A multiple photography award winner, his work seeks out rare species and moments of quiet drama. With a deep knowledge of animal behaviour, he captures their world with reverence and clarity.
A deeply emotive and technically challenging portrait. The bars, the gaze, the glow in the cheetah’s just-woken eyes – all speak to the tension between captivity and freedom. Composed from a crouch at eye level, Wiki’s framing draws the viewer into the cheetah’s perspective. A visual metaphor for the fragility and hope of rewilding. That raw, flickering gaze, filled with disorientation, light, and instinct, holds the viewer in place. There’s no distraction here – just soft light, shallow depth, and one powerful stare. There is tenderness here, and gravity. The subdued colour palette and diffused light add to the intimacy.
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Wiki says: “This cheetah – Edie – had just opened her eyes after sedation. She’s the first captive-born cheetah from Australia to be rewilded in Africa. After treatment, she was released back into the wild, contributing valuable new genetics to South Africa’s cheetah population. I wanted to capture the very moment she came back to awareness, marking her return to the wild after weeks of rehab.”
About photographer Wiki West
Wiki is a conservation photographer and storyteller who left her data analytics career to work full-time on wildlife initiatives across Africa. She’s collaborated with the Wildlife Emergency Fund, African Parks, and other NGOs to document collarings, rescues, and rewildings. Her work is immersive, emotional, and grounded in deep research and trust.
Travel in Africa is about knowing when and where to go, and with whom. A few weeks too early/late or a few kilometres off course, and you could miss the greatest show on Earth. And wouldn’t that be a pity?
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YOUR safari choice does make a difference - thank you!
Are you keen to see the elephants of South Africa’s Greater Kruger? Check out these amazing safari ideas to Greater Kruger. 
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
About 10 Years of Remembering Wildlife
About Adam Bannister
Roger Collinson has worked at the intersection of conservation and tourism for more than 50 years. He began his career with the Natal Parks Board in the 1970s and 1980s, where he helped draft South Africa’s first trophy hunting legislation and was later named South African Conservationist of the Year by PHASA.
What’s more, the Nel family, who’ve farmed Lokenburg for six generations, are showing how rooibos and livestock farming and biodiversity can thrive side by side.
About Gail Thomson
Dr Paul Funston is a leading African conservationist with over 30 years of experience dedicated to the protection of lions. He holds a PhD in Zoology from the University of Pretoria, where he studied lion population dynamics and behaviour in Kruger National Park. Paul is a recognised authority on predator-prey relationships, habitat connectivity, and sustainable lion conservation.
Blondie, a well-known, collared pride male lion in Zimbabwe’s Hwange area, has been trophy hunted after being lured into a hunting area with bait – leaving behind 10 cubs
As social media rewards spectacle over substance, some private guides are prioritising viral content at the expense of ethics, safety, and the very animals they claim to champion. Drawing on firsthand accounts from across Africa and India, Adam Bannister explores the troubling rise of performative guiding – and makes a compelling call for a return to integrity, collaboration, and true connection with the wild
Leopards are Africa’s most enigmatic big cats: silent, solitary, and vanishing fast. Behind their fading presence lies a thriving global industry built on prestige, profit, and skull measurements. According to a 
Born in Kassel, Germany, Christina is a clinical psychologist. In her spare time, she explores wild corners of Africa with a camera in hand. Her travels have taken her to South Africa, Kenya, Botswana, Namibia, Tanzania and Uganda. Wildlife photography is her mindfulness – a meditative exercise in patience, observation, and reverence for the natural world.
A professional wildlife photographer and guide from Johannesburg, Ernest’s passion for wildlife began during childhood visits to Kruger. Fresh out of high school in 2010, he sacrificed three electric guitars and an amplifier for his first starter-bundle camera. Thereafter, he spent years honing his skills at Walter Sisulu Botanical Gardens, photographing the resident Verraux’s “eagles.”
Based in San Diego, California, Mary’s roots in theatrical design and visual storytelling give her wildlife photography a narrative depth. Mary has photographed wildlife across the globe, from Africa’s golden plains to the icy stillness of the Arctic. But it’s the quiet moments – glances, gestures, pauses – that captivate her. Mary’s work honours the untamed and tells stories of connection. When not in the field, she’s home editing photos with coffee and a cat by her side.
