Africa's Eden - a land before time
- Ngorongoro combines extraordinary wildlife, ancient history and living Maasai culture in one landscape.
- The crater protects dense wildlife populations, including black rhinos, lions and abundant predators.
- Oldupai Gorge and Laetoli reveal some of humanity’s most significant evolutionary discoveries.
- The wider conservation area hosts Great Migration calving season between January and March.
- Year-round safaris combine spectacular game viewing with volcanic scenery, culture and archaeology.
Want to visit Ngorongoro Crater to witness its wildlife up close? Check out our ready-made safaris to Ngorongoro Conservation Area here. Or let our travel experts plan the perfect African safari for you.
Some two million years ago, a volcano roughly the size of Mount Kilimanjaro exploded dramatically and collapsed in on itself. Millennia later, its caldera’s ancient walls, in what is now the Ngorongoro Conservation Area (NCA), are still intact, encircling and cradling one of the most biodiverse and precious wild spaces in Africa. The effect is almost cinematic, creating an impression of motionless time, sheltered and protected from the unrelenting advance of human development.
People, livestock and wildlife have shared the Ngorongoro Conservation Area for generations under one of Africa’s most distinctive multiple-land-use conservation models. While this balance continues today, it has also become the subject of significant conservation and community debate in recent years.
Ngorongoro Crater offers a spectacular wilderness that offers wild marvels, breathtaking scenery and complex insight into human history at every turn.
Quick facts
The Ngorongoro Conservation Area (NCA) covers approximately 8,292 km² (829,200 hectares) in northern Tanzania and forms part of the greater Serengeti ecosystem. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is recognised for both its exceptional natural heritage (since 1979) and its outstanding cultural significance (added in 2010), reflecting its unique combination of wildlife conservation, living Maasai culture and globally important archaeological sites. Widely regarded as one of Africa’s greatest natural wonders, the NCA encompasses Ngorongoro Crater, Oldupai Gorge, Laetoli, several smaller volcanic craters, forests, lakes and vast short-grass plains that host part of the Great Migration‘s annual calving season. While the migration essentially follows a circular route, the northwest of the NCA is considered its starting point. Unlike a national park, the area is managed by the Ngorongoro Conservation Area Authority under a multiple-land-use model that allows wildlife and Maasai pastoralists to coexist across much of the landscape.
The Crater is the area’s flagship tourism feature, but the NCA also encompasses several smaller craters, forests, gorges, mountains, lakes, and wetlands in a smorgasbord of ecological variety. Wildlife aside, the secrets of humanity’s ancient histories are enfolded within Ngorongoro’s unique landscapes, and to many, this is the ‘cradle of humankind’. Some of the most famous paleoanthropological sites in the world are found in Oldupai Gorge (Olduvai Gorge), while Laetoli is home to literal footprints of hominid history.
Somewhat unsurprisingly, given the exceptional biodiversity and historical value, the NCA is a designated World Heritage Site. However, under Tanzania’s national law, it is neither a national park nor a game reserve. It is managed independently by the Ngorongoro Conservation Area Authority as a parastatal organisation.
The brief, recent history
In the mid-20th century, Ngorongoro was incorporated into the Serengeti National Park, but this was met with considerable backlash from local Maasai pastoralists, who had already been excluded from vast swathes of their homelands to make way for protected areas. Ngorongoro was born of a compromise between conserving history and biodiversity while recognising the value of the land to the Maasai people and neighbouring tribes. This unique multiple-use area was the first of its kind in Africa, and the experiment has proved largely successful. However, burgeoning human populations have necessitated certain policy changes.
These Tanzanian conservation areas are recognised for their ecological importance, historical significance, cultural value and utility for traditional land uses.
The Crater
At 264 km² (26,400 hectares), Ngorongoro Crater is the largest intact caldera in the world, surrounded by a heavily forested rim that rises to 2,300m above the grasslands below. The crater’s centre is dominated by the seasonal Lake Magadi (also spelt Makati), fed by the Ngoitokitok Spring and the Munge River. Courtesy of a complex geological history, the alkaline lake is mineral-rich, and every year, lesser flamingos are attracted to its salty, shallow waters during the breeding season between October and December.
Given the extraordinary biodiversity, it is only to be expected that the wildlife on offer is equally varied and exciting. Almost all of Africa’s most iconic animals, including the Big 5 and beyond, shelter in this geological cradle. Visitors to the crater have the best chance of seeing one of the region’s fabled black rhinos, which are notoriously difficult to spot. The crater’s black rhinos spend their evenings hidden in the yellow-green fever-trees of the Lerai Forest but descend to the open plains during the day. Though hit hard by poaching in the last century, the numbers have been bolstered by translocated black rhinos from South Africa, and each rhino is now individually monitored and protected. The crater now supports one of Tanzania’s most closely protected populations of eastern black rhinos. Intensive anti-poaching measures, veterinary monitoring and carefully managed breeding have helped the population recover steadily over recent decades, making Ngorongoro one of the best places in East Africa to see this critically endangered species.
The crater is also rumoured to be home to the highest lion density in Africa, possibly by creative marketing teams. Regardless of this speculation’s veracity, it is highly unusual to visit the crater without encountering Africa’s largest cat. While Ngorongoro supports one of Africa’s best-known lion populations, their relative isolation within the crater has required ongoing genetic management through carefully monitored natural dispersal and conservation programmes.
The lion’s fiercest competition, spotted hyenas, are also present in large numbers and are the subjects of a decades-long research project. Keep an eye out for these misrepresented predators lurking along the banks of Lake Magadi, waiting for the opportunity to charge through the shallow waters and snatch up an unsuspecting flamingo.
Souvenirs of history
Olduvai (or Oldupai) Gorge is a steep-sided ravine, named for the Maasai word “oldupai”, which means the “place of the wild sisal” in reference to the plants which dominate. Archaeological research in Olduvai Gorge, nearby Lake Ndutu, and surrounding sites has yielded a timeline of our species’ evolution. It traces the progression from scavenging/hunting to the use of stone tools and, eventually, to iron. The scattered fossils, tools and bone fragments reveal the gradual development of communal societies and social complexities that would eventually define our successes (and failures) as a species.
Bone fragments of Homo habilis (approximately 1.9 million years old), Paranthropus boisei (about 1.8 million years old), Homo erectus (1.2 million years old) and, eventually, Homo sapiens (17,000 years ago) have all been found around the gorge.
Just 45km south of Olduvai, the discovery of several sets of footprints preserved for close to 4 million years settled the archaeological debate about whether bipedalism or large brain size evolved first. Famed archaeologist Mary Leakey and her team excavated the Laetoli footprints, which are tentatively believed to have belonged to Australopithecus afarensis. This discovery has been interpreted as proof that early hominids were bipedal long before the evolution of the human brain. Somewhat whimsically, the footprints were discovered by Andrew Hill, who was visiting Dr Leakey at the time. He dodged an elephant dung missile lobbed by a colleague, fell over and found himself staring at history preserved in solidified volcanic ash.
The footprints have since been covered to prevent erosion damage, and none of the active archaeological sites is open to tourists. However, as one of the largest onsite museums in Africa, the Olduvai Gorge Museum offers curious tourists the opportunity to view the footprints’ casts and read about their interpretation. Founded by Mary Leakey in the 1970s, the museum sits on the gorge’s edge and showcases many of the paleoanthropological artefacts from the area.
Ngorongoro’s wildlife
While the geography and history of Ngorongoro are deeply fascinating, the main attraction for most is the spectacular wildlife, even beyond the crater.
Each year around 1.5 million wildebeest, accompanied by hundreds of thousands of zebra and gazelle, move through the wider Serengeti ecosystem. Between January and March many gather on the nutrient-rich short-grass plains around Ndutu and southern Ngorongoro to calve. The resultant spectacle is a once-in-a-lifetime experience for dazzled tourists. Predators and scavengers of every description throw themselves into the wildebeest melee, dodging the sharp horns of defensive mothers to take advantage of the vulnerable calves.
For Ngorongoro’s carnivores, this yearly glut increases their own offspring’s chances of survival while providing ample opportunity for inexperienced youngsters to practice their hunting skills. Fortunately, with over 8,000 calves born every day, it is not all death for the calves, and visitors can also soak up the joy of watching the wobbly, fawn-coloured calves find their feet and learn to run.
Quite aside from the adrenaline-inducing predator-prey interactions, Ngorongoro is a paradise for birdwatchers. More than 500 bird species have been recorded across the conservation area, thanks to its remarkable diversity of habitats, from misty montane forests and crater rim woodlands to open grasslands, alkaline lakes and permanent wetlands. Lake Magadi often shimmers pink with lesser flamingos, while grey crowned cranes, secretary birds, kori bustards and a variety of raptors patrol the crater floor. Along the forested rim, birders can look for colourful highland specials such as Schalow’s turaco and the striking augur buzzard, making Ngorongoro one of northern Tanzania’s finest birding destinations.
Explore Ngorongoro
If there is a drawback to a safari in the Maasai Mara or Serengeti, it is that each day is focused on exploring the largely open scenery in search of more conventional sightings, which can translate into a kind of safari overload. In contrast, a safari through Ngorongoro can be interspersed with the many diversions and learning experiences.
So many rewarding experiences await visitors to Ngorongoro that an article covering the basics inevitably reads like a checklist. Yet what sets the conservation area apart is the sheer variety it offers beyond a traditional game drive. Descending into the crater for a morning safari is, of course, the highlight for many visitors, but the wider conservation area invites travellers to slow down and explore its geological, cultural and historical treasures.
The Ngoitokitok Spring remains a popular picnic stop, where visitors can enjoy lunch while watching hippos wallow in the pools below. Guided walks with an armed ranger are available in both Empakaai and Olmoti craters, offering a completely different perspective on the volcanic landscape and the chance to experience Ngorongoro on foot. A visit to Oldupai Gorge Museum brings humanity’s earliest story to life through world-famous fossil discoveries and exhibits, while cultural visits with Maasai communities provide insight into the traditions of the people who have lived alongside wildlife here for generations. During the Great Migration calving season between January and March, many travellers also combine the crater with the nearby Ndutu region, where hundreds of thousands of wildebeest gather to give birth on the short-grass plains. For those seeking quieter corners, the remote Gol Mountains and dramatic views of Ol Doinyo Lengai – East Africa’s only active carbonatite volcano – reward travellers willing to venture beyond the crater’s famous rim.
For example, the Ngoitokitok spring is a popular picnic spot with visitors. Lunch can be enjoyed to the serenading of grunting hippopotamus bobbing about in the pool below the spring. Alternatively, the two smaller craters, Olmoti and Empakaai, can be explored on foot with an experienced guide and official NCA ranger. Not far from Olduvai Gorge, the gneiss inselberg of Naseru Rock protrudes sharply from the plains, and a trip to the neighbouring Lake Natron Game Controlled Area will allow visitors to see Ol Doinyo Lengai (“The Mountain of God”), an active volcano whose recent rumblings suggest that an eruption is imminent. And while the craters are often bursting with eager tourists, the geologically fascinating Gol Mountains are more remote and less crowded for the adventurous traveller.
Where to stay
Visitors to Ngorongoro can choose from some of Tanzania’s finest safari accommodation, with most luxury lodges perched along the crater rim to maximise the spectacular views. Staying here allows guests to descend into the crater early in the morning before day visitors arrive, making the most of wildlife viewing.
For those visiting during the Great Migration calving season, seasonal tented camps around Ndutu offer front-row access to one of Africa’s greatest wildlife spectacles before continuing onward into the Serengeti.
Best time to visit Ngorongoro
Ngorongoro is one of Africa’s few safari destinations that delivers outstanding wildlife viewing throughout the year. Because the crater supports a large resident wildlife population, visitors can expect excellent game viewing in any season.
From June to October, the dry season offers cooler temperatures, clear skies and excellent visibility as animals gather around permanent water sources. January to March is particularly rewarding for travellers combining Ngorongoro with the southern Serengeti, as hundreds of thousands of wildebeest gather on the nearby short-grass plains to calve, attracting extraordinary concentrations of predators.
April and May bring the long rains, with fewer visitors, lush green landscapes and attractive accommodation rates. While occasional showers can affect road conditions, photography is often exceptional thanks to dramatic skies and vibrant scenery.
Combining Ngorongoro with the Serengeti and northern Tanzania
Few visitors experience Ngorongoro in isolation. Instead, it forms the centrepiece of Tanzania’s famous Northern Safari Circuit, alongside Serengeti National Park, Tarangire National Park and Lake Manyara National Park.
A typical itinerary begins in Arusha before travelling through Tarangire’s elephant-rich landscapes, spending a night or two at Ngorongoro, and continuing west into the Serengeti. Travellers visiting between January and March often combine the crater with the Ndutu region to witness the Great Migration calving season, while those travelling between June and October usually continue north into the central or northern Serengeti in search of river crossings.
This combination delivers an exceptional variety of landscapes, from ancient volcanic highlands and dense forests to endless plains, making it one of Africa’s most complete safari itineraries.
Conclusion
Some 3.5 million years ago, a trio of our hominin ancestors took a stroll through some soft volcanic ash towards the local waterhole. They left behind a powerful reminder of our ancient, varied human roots. One can but wonder at the lives experienced by the people who left their footprints in the ash.
In many ways, this legacy has continued in the NCA. The multiple-land-use policy recognises the intimate connection that human residents have to land and its creatures. For tourists, the NCA offers an opportunity to dive back in and reconnect with history, wild spaces, and animals against the primordial backdrop of breathtaking Ngorongoro.
Further reading
- How and when to experience the Great Wildebeest Migration: The Great Wildebeest Migration is the quintessential African safari experience. Here’s our detailed guide on everything you need to know
- Tanzania is a bucket list destination for safari enthusiasts & wildlife lovers. Here’s the lowdown on its four unique safari circuits. Read more about Tanzania’s safari circuits here
- Ngorongoro Conservation Area, centred on Tanzania’s famous crater, is a spectacular safari destination of abundant wildlife & ancient history. Read more about Ngorongoro safaris here
- The vast Serengeti in northern Tanzania is home to an extraordinary amount of wildlife and plays host to the greatest show on Earth – the Great Migration. Read more about Serengeti National Park here
- When the rains beckon, the wildebeest go, and this never-ending circular journey makes for a compelling safari experience. The Mara River crossings during August to October are fraught with danger, and one gets caught up in the drama of the moment, the chaos, the celebration of life. Read all there is to know about the Great Migration here
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