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From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
There is much to share this week, but first: the troubling situation unfolding in the Amboseli ecosystem, where at least 15 elephants have died over recent weeks. Most were adult females and calves, and several showed partial paralysis before dying.
Preliminary toxicology tests by the Kenya Wildlife Service detected cyanide in samples, making poisoning the leading explanation. Further testing is needed to confirm whether concentrations were lethal. Big Life Foundation says that if cyanide was responsible, the source remains unknown, with no evidence yet that it was deliberately introduced. Big Life is working closely with KWS and partners to investigate. Amboseli scientist Dr David Western has urged investigators to examine natural cyanogenic toxins, including manyatta grass after heavy rains. The deaths recall Botswana’s 2020 elephant die-off, later linked to cyanotoxins in waterholes, though Amboseli may prove entirely different. For now, cyanide is the strongest clue, but not the final answer.
In more positive news, we bring you two stories that celebrate resilience: the return of cheetahs to Greater Luangwa after nearly 30 years, and an exploration of Kenya’s legendary Tsavo, where vast landscapes and thriving wildlife remind us what long-term conservation can achieve.
Did you know?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
TSAVO LEGENDS
Tsavo East and West National Parks in Kenya are famed for legendary tuskers, red-dust landscapes and immense horizons, offering a rare sense of scale and remoteness.
CHEETAHS TO LUANGWA
Cheetahs have returned to Greater Luangwa after 30 years. We explain why North Luangwa was chosen for their release, and what will shape their long-term success.
Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas
Ultimate South Luangwa – 8 days Discover the untamed beauty of South Luangwa National Park, Zambia – a renowned leopard stronghold and the birthplace of walking safaris. Embark on expertly guided bush walks and game drives, spend a night under the stars in a secluded sleepout, and refine your photographic skills in one of Africa’s finest hides. An authentic safari experience that reconnects you with the wild at its most raw and real.
Kenya’s super tuskers – 9 days
Journey to Kenya’s Tsavo in search of the great tusked elephants that define Africa’s vast open landscapes. Alongside meaningful time with these gentle giants, you will seek out Tsavo’s famous maneless lions, the extraordinary gerenuk, the hirola (the world’s rarest antelope) and a rich array of other wildlife. Witness hippos and crocodiles from a glass-fronted underwater chamber at a crystal-clear spring, enjoy the option to sponsor orphaned elephants, and stay alert for the elusive, rarely seen striped hyena. Time spent with tuskers is an investment in your soul.
AG safari guests Tracy and Ferguson from the USA went on a dream vacation to South Africa, visiting Manyeleti, Klaserie, Johannesburg and Blyde River Canyon:
“My team at Africa Geographic was amazing. They took the time to listen to what I wanted to experience on my trip and designed the perfect itinerary for me. They were always available whenever I had a question and made sure I was well prepared, from the time I booked until the end of my trip. They even checked in on me after I returned home. Thank you, Linda, Wayne, and Sonja for making my dream vacation such an amazing and unforgettable experience.”
One of the reasons Cape Town is so special is the effortless connection to wildlife and landscape. Stefan Winterboer, AG safari expert, explains why he loves the Mother City: its dramatic mountains and easy access to nature set it apart from other world-class cities. Here is your inspiration to book your next Cape Town adventure with Africa Geographic. (0:54) Click here to watch
Each of Africa’s national parks and protected areas has its own rich, vibrant history, and some, like Tsavo, have travelled a more challenging road than others. Shaped by Kenya’s history, a fair share of luck and, often, the blood, sweat and hard work of passionate conservationists, Africa’s protected wild spaces are treasure chests of our natural heritage.
Perhaps because of their complex histories, some of these wild spaces engender a particular mystique. This is especially true of Tsavo East and Tsavo West National Parks. Together, they form the heart of the broader Tsavo Conservation Area and an essential part of the greater Amboseli–Tsavo ecosystem. Tsavo is captivating: a place of vast horizons and the ancient magic of the truly wild. Rich red soil stains the leathery hides of its elephants, and the sight of a herd of these red giants crossing the Galana River beneath doum palms is not easily forgotten.
The sometimes-harsh beauty of the landscape captured the heart of Denys Finch Hatton, the aristocratic adventurer and lover of Out of Africa author Karen Blixen, in a way few other wild spaces did. It was in Tsavo West that he died in 1931, when the aircraft he was piloting crashed near Voi.
From untimely deaths and man-eating lions to devastating poaching wars, Tsavo has not travelled an easy road. Today, however, Tsavo East and Tsavo West together protect more than 22,000km², making them Kenya’s largest combined national-park wilderness. When the adjoining Chyulu Hills National Park is included, the protected landscape exceeds 23,000km².
Named after the Tsavo River, which flows through Tsavo West before joining the Athi River to form the Galana, this enormous Big 5 ecosystem lies between Nairobi, Kenya’s capital, and Mombasa on the Indian Ocean coast.
A herd of elephants crosses Tsavo’s grassy plains, a familiar sight in one of Kenya’s greatest wilderness landscapes
The parks are divided by the Nairobi–Mombasa transport corridor, including the A109 highway and the old and standard-gauge railway lines. This position has shaped Tsavo’s history and continues to make it one of Kenya’s most practical destinations for travellers combining safari and coast.
The enormous scale of Tsavo supports a striking diversity of habitats, from the open, red-earth plains and semi-arid savannas of the east to the wooded hills, lava flows, springs and rocky escarpments of the west.
The east-flowing Tsavo and Athi Rivers merge in the centre of Tsavo to form the Galana River (pictured) which then flows to the coast
Tsavo East
At approximately 13,700km², Tsavo East National Park is the larger of the twin parks and generally the more arid. Apart from rocky outcrops near Voi and the gorges and riverine vegetation of the Galana River, much of the park consists of open grassland, thornveld and red-earth savanna stretching towards the horizon.
What defines Tsavo East above all else is space. Visitor density is low, particularly away from the more accessible southern areas, and it remains possible to spend long hours exploring without seeing another safari vehicle.
Fringe-eared oryx are among the dry-country specialists found on Tsavo East’s open plains and thornveld
The reopening of northern areas, that had been closed during the worst of the poaching years, has expanded the part of the park accessible to visitors. This remote landscape is particularly appealing to travellers hoping to find African wild dogs, though these wide-ranging predators are never easy to predict.
Geologically, Tsavo East is fascinating. The Yatta Plateau, which traces much of the park’s western boundary, is regarded as the world’s longest lava flow, extending for more than 300km. Mudanda Rock, a vast inselberg and natural water catchment, offers panoramic views over a seasonal pool where elephants and other wildlife gather to drink.
Wildlife enthusiasts should watch for the long-necked gerenuk, lesser kudu and fringe-eared oryx, all dry-country specialists that help give Tsavo its distinctive character.
A gerenuk stretches to browse, using its long neck and hind legs to reach leaves beyond other antelopesA striking rasp of vulturine guineafowl
Tsavo East is also home to a small introduced population of hirola (Beatragus hunteri), one of the world’s rarest antelopes. The species’ remaining natural range lies in northeastern Kenya, close to the Somali border, and the Tsavo population was established as an insurance population beyond that restricted range.
Sightings of black rhino and striped hyena are uncommon but rewarding. Birding is excellent, with about 500 species recorded, including golden-breasted starling, African orange-bellied parrot, vulturine guineafowl and Somali ostrich.
Three critically endangered hirolas in Tsavo East, where an introduced population safeguards the species beyond its natural range
Tsavo West
Tsavo West National Park covers approximately 9,000km² and is generally more developed and readily accessible than Tsavo East, particularly in its northern reaches near the Tsavo River and Nairobi–Mombasa highway.
Close to the Tanzanian border and Mount Kilimanjaro, Tsavo West is topographically dramatic. Mountains, inselbergs, rocky ridges and sheer cliffs bear witness to ancient tectonic shifts and more recent volcanic activity.
Fertile volcanic soils and comparatively higher rainfall support denser vegetation than that found across much of Tsavo East. This can make wildlife more difficult to locate, but the scenery is magnificent. On clear mornings, travellers in the western reaches of the park may see Kilimanjaro rising beyond the Tanzanian border.
A herd of plains zebras gathers to drink
Mzima Springs is one of Tsavo West’s best-known attractions. Rain falling on the Chyulu Hills filters through porous volcanic rock before emerging from the ground as a series of clear pools and streams.
A submerged viewing chamber allows visitors to peer beneath the surface, where fish pass the windows and hippos and crocodiles may appear through the green water. Visibility varies with conditions, and the hippos are not guaranteed to perform on cue, but the springs remain a beautiful place to explore on foot.
Hippos in the crystal-clear waters of Mzima Springs
Dense stands of date and raffia palms, along with fruiting trees and thick riverine vegetation, attract monkeys and abundant birdlife, making Mzima a welcome oasis during the dry months.
Not far from Chyulu Gate, the Shetani lava flow forms a broad expanse of folded black rock, created by eruptions thought to have occurred only a few centuries ago. Klipspringers and rock hyraxes pick their way across the jagged surface, while leopards occasionally use the lava fields and surrounding woodland.
Leopard resting in the woodlands of Tsavo East
“Shetani” means “devil” in Swahili, a name said to reflect the reactions of local people who witnessed the landscape being swallowed by molten rock.
The nearby lava caves should be visited only where access is officially permitted and with current local guidance. Conditions and park regulations can change, and caves may shelter bats or other wildlife.
Tsavo West is also important black-rhino country. Sightings remain difficult in the park’s thick vegetation, but the expanded Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary and wider protected landscape form an important stronghold for the critically endangered eastern black rhino.
A klipspringer on Shetani lava flow
The Ghost and The Darkness
No account of Tsavo would be complete without the story of its most infamous lions.
In 1898, during the construction of a railway bridge over the Tsavo River, two male lions repeatedly attacked workers living in camps beside the building site. Fires, thorn barriers and other attempts to keep the lions away proved ineffective, and many workers fled. Construction was interrupted while Lieutenant-Colonel John Henry Patterson attempted to hunt the animals, eventually killing both in December 1898.
Ambush. A lioness takes cover in an empty water trough – the perfect spot for launching an ambush
Patterson later claimed that the lions had killed 135 people. Contemporary railway records attributed 28 deaths to them, while later isotope analysis of the lions’ hair and bone estimated that they had eaten approximately 35 people. That research could not establish the total number killed but not consumed, so the precise death toll remains unknown.
The lions’ preserved skins and skulls are now held by Chicago’s Field Museum. Their story inspired several books and films, most famously The Ghost and the Darkness.
There is no single accepted explanation for the attacks. The most likely answer is a combination of opportunity, prey shortages, human activity and the physical condition of the lions. One of the animals had severe dental damage, including an infection at the root of a canine tooth, which may have made humans easier to catch and consume than large wild prey.
The late-19th-century rinderpest pandemic, which devastated wild and domestic ungulates across eastern Africa, may also have reduced the lions’ usual prey base. Poor camp security, human remains along the railway route and the large number of workers sleeping in temporary shelters probably created further opportunities.
A pair of Tsavo lions stretches atop a rocky outcrop, surveying the surrounding plains in the early light
The Tsavo experience
Visitors should be prepared for heat. Temperatures can be fierce during the hotter dry periods, particularly from January to March and again during parts of the June-to-October dry season. Early-morning and late-afternoon game drives are usually the most productive and comfortable, while the middle of the day is best spent in shade.
Tsavo’s adult male lions are often described as maneless, though this is an oversimplification. Many have manes, but these tend to be shorter, sparser and less developed than those of lions in cooler ecosystems. Research has linked this reduced or delayed mane development to Tsavo’s consistently hot climate, although age, genetics and social conditions may also play a role.
A scantily maned lion strides as an elephant watches, a tense encounter between two of Tsavo’s most formidable residents
The dry season from June to October generally offers the easiest game viewing as wildlife gathers around rivers, dams, springs and permanent waterholes. January to March provides a second dry-season window. The wetter months bring green landscapes, migrant birds, dramatic skies and fewer visitors, but wildlife can disperse and unsealed roads may become difficult after heavy rain.
Tsavo is enormous. Distances between gates, camps and attractions are easily underestimated, and a route that appears short on a map may take several hours. It is better to explore one section properly than to rush between distant points.
Self-driving is possible, particularly for travellers experienced in African national parks, but careful preparation is essential. Fuel, drinking water, a good map or offline navigation, a sound spare tyre and sufficient daylight should never be afterthoughts. Mobile coverage is unreliable in remote areas, while roads may become sandy, rocky or muddy depending on the season.
Most first-time visitors will gain more from travelling with an experienced guide or using a lodge vehicle. Good guides understand the park’s distances, road conditions and seasonal wildlife movements and can interpret a landscape in which sightings are often less obvious than in smaller, busier reserves.
Iconic massive herds call Tsavo home
Red elephants and giant tuskers
Tsavo is famous for its red elephants and for the great tuskers that still roam its plains. The colour comes not from a genetic difference but from the iron-rich red soil in which the elephants dust and wallow.
The ecosystem’s position beside major transport routes proved disastrous during the poaching crisis of the 1970s and 1980s, when elephant and rhino populations collapsed. Decades of conservation work, aerial surveillance, anti-poaching patrols and collaboration between state and private organisations have supported an extraordinary recovery.
Tsavo is known for the giant tuskers that roam the area
Recent conservation reports put the wider Tsavo elephant population above 15,000, with some landscape estimates exceeding 17,000. Exact totals vary according to the area and survey period being discussed, but Tsavo remains home to Kenya’s largest elephant population.
A handful of surviving bulls qualify as “super tuskers”, generally understood to be elephants with tusks weighing around 45kg or more on each side, or so long that they nearly brush the ground. Seeing one is never guaranteed. These elephants travel widely, often beyond national-park boundaries, and their movements are closely monitored for security reasons.
Tsavo Trust plays a central role in protecting these elephants, working closely with the Kenya Wildlife Service and other conservation partners to monitor known and emerging tuskers across the wider Tsavo Conservation Area. Its aerial unit provides regular surveillance over this vast, often roadless landscape, while mobile ground teams track individual elephants, record their movements and respond to threats. This focus on tuskers strengthens security for the broader ecosystem too, benefiting other wildlife, including hirola, while helping to safeguard the connected landscapes on which these wide-ranging bulls depend.
Your safari can help protect Tsavo’s tuskers. Africa Geographic donates a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects, including campaigns supporting Tsavo Trust’s aerial and ground teams. Learn more and support our Guarding Tuskers campaign.
Even without a super-tusker sighting, the experience of watching a family of elephants emerge through red dust or gather at a waterhole is reason enough to visit.
Those who know Tsavo bear testimony to its unique atmosphere and profound impact. It is difficult to capture the experience fully in words. Boundless skies and immense spaces combine with a tangible sense of history to create one of East Africa’s most compelling wilderness journeys.
Tsavo’s legendary red-stained elephants
Planning a Tsavo safari
A rewarding visit should ideally include both parks, with at least two or three nights in each. Travellers with limited time can choose according to their interests.
Tsavo East is best suited to those seeking immense open landscapes, red elephants, dry-country species, big-tusker country and a strong sense of solitude. Its open terrain generally makes wildlife easier to spot than in the denser west.
Tsavo West is the more scenic and varied of the two, with volcanic hills, Mzima Springs, lava flows, rocky valleys, Kilimanjaro views and a wider selection of accommodation. Wildlife viewing may require more patience, but the landscape rewards slower exploration.
Combining the parks works particularly well for travellers moving between Nairobi and the Kenyan coast. Road journeys from Nairobi to the principal Tsavo gates generally take about four hours before delays, while access from Mombasa and the nearby coast can take around two hours, depending on the gate, traffic and final destination. Light aircraft also serve several airstrips in and around the parks.
Elephants take a bath in Satao Camp’s waterhole
Accommodation ranges from established lodges to intimate tented camps, and location should be considered as carefully as comfort. Staying near the area you intend to explore reduces long transfers and allows more time in the field.
For a road safari beginning in Nairobi, Tsavo West is often the logical first stop, followed by Tsavo East and then the coast. Travellers starting in Mombasa, Diani Beach or elsewhere along the coast can reverse the route or concentrate on Tsavo East for a shorter safari.
The parks also combine naturally with Amboseli, the Chyulu Hills and private or community-managed conservancies in the wider ecosystem. A longer itinerary can link Amboseli’s Kilimanjaro views with Tsavo West’s volcanic landscapes, Tsavo East’s red plains and several nights beside the Indian Ocean.
A minimum of four nights across the two parks gives travellers a useful introduction, but six or seven nights allow time for longer drives, quieter areas and unhurried wildlife watching. Serious photographers, elephant enthusiasts and travellers seeking remote wilderness may want longer still.
A cheetah surveys Tsavo’s open plains from the elevated vantage point of a termite mound
For a deeper encounter with Tsavo’s elephants, guided walking safaris offer the chance to experience their landscape on foot. Moving quietly through the bush reveals details often missed from a vehicle, from tracks and feeding signs to the scale of the terrain itself. In the company of experienced guides, walkers may encounter elephants, dry-country antelopes, abundant birdlife and other wildlife while gaining a richer understanding of this vast ecosystem.
Pausing to watch a herd of elephants moving across Tsavo’s open landscape while on a walking safari to see Tsavo’s tuskers
This is not a safari destination built around racing from one crowded sighting to the next. Tsavo rewards patience: time beside a waterhole, a long search along the Galana, a leopard melting into dense woodland, or a distant elephant bull materialising through a veil of red dust.
For travellers who seek wilderness, elephants, unusual dry-country wildlife and a natural bush-and-beach journey, Tsavo remains one of Kenya’s great safari landscapes.
A family group of elephants crosses the open plains, their hides coloured by Tsavo’s iron-rich red dust
Further reading
Compare Kenya’s famous Maasai Mara with Tsavo and explore one of Africa’s greatest wildlife destinations, renowned for the Great Migration and exceptional predator sightings. Check out our Maasai Mara safari guide
Discover where to stay, when to visit, the wildlife to expect and why Samburu is one of Kenya’s most rewarding safari destinations. Check out our Samburu National Reserve guide
Cheetahs have returned to Zambia’s North Luangwa after more than 30 years.
North Luangwa was selected as a reintroduction site for its scale, connectivity and varied habitats.
Mixed habitats may help cheetahs avoid lions, leopards and spotted hyenas.
South Africa’s metapopulation supplied suitable founders with experience of competing predators.
Tracking will test whether the cheetahs disperse, breed and establish a self-sustaining population.
Want to visit North Luangwa on safari? Find safaris to and info on North Luangwa here. We also have plenty of other ready-made safaris to choose from, or let us build one just for you.
Six cheetahs have been translocated from South Africa to North Luangwa National Park, marking the first stage of an attempt to restore the species to Zambia’s Greater Luangwa Ecosystem after an absence of more than 30 years. The three males and three females arrived in July 2026 and will be joined by further cohorts later in 2026 and 2027. The project aims to introduce at least 18 cheetahs over two years and, ultimately, establish a self-sustaining population across the wider Luangwa landscape.
The return of the cheetah is important beyond the arrival of six animals. The project will determine whether a carefully selected founder population can adapt to a large, unfenced ecosystem containing established populations of lions, leopards and spotted hyenas. It will also examine whether South Africa’s managed cheetah population can contribute to restoring the species across its former range.
The founders were selected for age, sex, genetic diversity and prior experience living alongside lions and other competing predators
Why North Luangwa was selected for cheetahs
Cheetahs historically occurred in the Luangwa Valley, with the last recorded sightings in 1998. Their disappearance is thought to have followed successive anthrax outbreaks and wider human disturbance across the valley.
North Luangwa was not chosen simply because cheetahs once lived there. The Zoological Society of London conducted a quantitative habitat suitability assessment using movement and habitat-use data collected from cheetahs at other sites. These findings were applied to the Luangwa Valley to identify suitable habitat and guide the selection of the release area.
Four possible sites were then assessed using a matrix intended to identify the safest and most appropriate location. The final site lies in a remote southern section of North Luangwa National Park.
The assessment challenges the common assumption that cheetahs depend primarily on open grasslands. This perception has partly been shaped by where cheetahs have historically been easiest to observe, follow and film.
“The association of cheetah in open plains is a bit of a false narrative we have created for ourselves over many decades,” says Olivia Sievert, head of Endangered Wildlife Trust’s Cheetah Conservation Project.
Cheetahs can use mixed landscapes containing woodland, thickets and more open areas. In ecosystems occupied by other large carnivores, this variation may be particularly important because it gives cheetahs more opportunities to avoid competitors.
“The scale and ecological integrity of this landscape make it uniquely suited to support wide-ranging wildlife, and provides a rare opportunity for cheetah restoration at a meaningful scale,” says Sievert.
Sievert says the Luangwa Valley’s mixed habitat structure should allow cheetahs to avoid competing predators at a habitat scale. The size and ecological integrity of the landscape also provide space for a wide-ranging species to move, hunt and establish territories.
North Luangwa has benefited from strengthened protected-area management, recovering wildlife populations and maintained connectivity with surrounding Game Management Areas. Lions, African wild dogs and other large carnivores already occur across the ecosystem, while cheetahs remained absent.
Restoring cheetahs would therefore complete the landscape’s carnivore guild – the group of carnivore species occupying and interacting within the same ecosystem.
North Luangwa’s riverine woodlands, floodplains and open habitats form a varied landscape selected for the cheetah reintroduction
Living alongside larger predators in North Luangwa
Suitable habitat and prey do not remove the risks posed by other carnivores. Lions, leopards and spotted hyenas can kill cheetahs or take their prey, and lions are the largest cause of mortality within South Africa’s cheetah metapopulation.
“For these reasons we only selected cheetah for this project that came from reserves in which they co-exist with lions and where possible the full suite of competing predators,” Sievert says. “This will help mitigate for this risk but certainly won’t guarantee no loss of cheetah to competitors.”
Lions are well established in North Luangwa and pose a risk to the reintroduced cheetahs, making predator avoidance a key measure of adaptation
The six founders were therefore selected from Thanda Private Game Reserve, Manyoni Game Reserve, Nkomazi Game Reserve and Dinokeng Game Reserve, where they had lived independently alongside similar prey and competing predators.
Researchers will monitor whether they continue hunting successfully, avoid competitors and adjust their movements in a much larger wilderness.
“The cheetah were self-sustaining on their natal reserves in South Africa prior to being captured for this project, and with prey species being fairly similar in the Luangwa Valley to that of South Africa, we are confident they will be hunting fine and avoiding competing predators as well,” says Sievert. “We are really focused on watching to see if the males begin to develop territories as that will play a big role in creating a population.”
The development of male territories will be particularly important because stable territorial behaviour can influence breeding opportunities and the establishment of a resident population.
A staged release for cheetahs
The cheetahs will not all be released directly into the open landscape.
After quarantine in South Africa and transport to Zambia, they were placed in holding bomas for health monitoring and initial acclimatisation. Some are being released into a 2,000-hectare predator-proof sanctuary, while the others are being released into the wider ecosystem. “The sanctuary has been specifically designed to help the Cheetah establish familiarity with the release area before entering the wider ecosystem,” says Sievert. “By temporarily concentrating animals within a defined space, it encourages interactions between males and females while promoting scent-marking and territory establishment. This is particularly important for males, whose scent-marking locations form a critical part of Cheetah social structure.” These markers may encourage site fidelity, helping to anchor the animals to the release area before they enter the unfenced landscape.
Each cheetah has been fitted with a satellite and VHF tracking collar. Trained monitors from the Zambian Carnivore Programme will follow their movements, hunting, health, behaviour and interactions with other species. Monitoring will also allow teams to detect threats such as snares.
This information is central to adaptive management. Adaptive management uses monitoring results to adjust conservation decisions as new evidence emerges. In this case, the behaviour and survival of the first animals will guide the release and management of later cohorts.
Most wild cheetahs in South Africa live in fenced reserves. Individual populations may be too small or isolated to maintain genetic diversity without intervention. The Endangered Wildlife Trust therefore works with landowners and government authorities to move cheetahs between reserves, managing relatedness, breeding and population size across the network. These all form part of South Africa’s cheetah metapopulation – from which all six cheetahs were sourced. A metapopulation is a group of separate populations managed collectively through the movement of animals between reserves.
Since the metapopulation was established in 2012, it has recorded average annual growth of 8.8%. This growth has made it possible to select suitable animals for range-expansion projects without weakening the source population. Their relocation demonstrates how a managed population can supply animals for restoration elsewhere.
The longer-term ambition is different. The Luangwa population is intended to require progressively less supplementation and translocation.
Cheetahs can travel long distances, and project partners anticipate that some animals may disperse beyond North Luangwa relatively early. Dispersal happens when animals move away from their original or established range, often in search of territories, mates or resources.
These movements could eventually take cheetahs through the Greater Luangwa Ecosystem, including towards South Luangwa.
One of the goals of the projects is to “strengthen connectivity for cheetah across cheetah landscapes,” according to the Cheetah Conservation Initiative. Collar data will reveal how they use the landscape and whether existing connectivity is sufficient for movement across more than seven million hectares of protected habitat.
Measuring success in stages
It is too early to define a timeline for success. The safe arrival of the first cheetahs is one stage. Breeding will be another. The central biological objective is a population able to persist with minimal supplementation from South Africa.
The African Range-Wide Cheetah Conservation Initiative and project partners have positioned the cheetah for this project as an umbrella species. “Together, these efforts aim to secure a thriving landscape where both people and wildlife can sustainably coexist and prosper,” the initiative asserts. Protecting an umbrella species requires investment in large areas of habitat, monitoring, law enforcement, community upliftment and landscape connectivity, which can benefit many other species.
The project has already created employment and supported skills development and livelihoods in the surrounding Munyamadzi Game Management Area. In 2025, the cheetah project provided 183 jobs in an area with few other sources of formal employment.
The scientific test now begins. The cheetahs must adjust to an ecosystem far larger than their South African reserves, establish territories, avoid competing predators, find prey and move through an open landscape.
Their satellite collars will show whether the ecological preparation was accurate and where management must adapt. The broader conservation value for the cheetah will depend on whether the project can turn a carefully managed founder group into a connected, breeding population across the Greater Luangwa Ecosystem.
When should “clever” cheetah breed? New research shows how cheetah mothers time breeding with baby booms of prey, boosting cub survival in changing African landscapes
North Luangwa in Zambia is a remote Big 5 wilderness with a sparse road network. The camps are rustic and fully immersive – for the ideal walking safari. Read more about safaris to North Luangwa here
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
Exciting news: A NEW GORILLA ENCOUNTER is coming
We received thrilling news this week. The painstaking habituation of the Kassa family of western lowland gorillas in Odzala-Kokoua National Park (Congo-Brazzaville) is nearing completion. If all goes according to plan, we expect to welcome the first Africa Geographic and Ukuri guests to spend time with this gorilla family during 2027.
The 3½-year habituation process has followed strict, internationally proven protocols, ensuring that these extraordinary encounters are conducted with the utmost respect for the gorillas. One of my team members will visit the Kassa family in a few months, accompanying a small group of invited travel professionals as they experience this conservation milestone.
I often say that the existing gorilla experience in northern Odzala-Kokoua, near Camp Imbalanga, is the finest in the world. You sit quietly in an elevated treehouse overlooking a forest clearing, waiting for the gorillas to emerge from the rainforest. There are no masks, permits, strenuous hikes, or one-hour time limits, and you get to see as many gorillas as appear during your vigil. And while you wait for these fellow great apes to arrive, the forest delivers pure magic. Forest buffalo, forest elephants, bongos and even leopards may step silently into view. One of our guests was privileged to watch a gorilla family and a leopard in the same clearing at the same time! Add the spectacular birdlife, and you have what remains, for me, the most inspiring safari experience in Africa.
Now imagine complementing that unforgettable treehouse encounter with a guided trek to meet the newly habituated Kassa family in their rainforest home. It promises to be one of Africa’s most extraordinary wildlife experiences.
We have a waiting list for travellers who would like to be among the first to experience this pioneering conservation success. We will confirm the exact timing for 2027 once the habituation process is complete.
Congo-Brazzaville is a safe, welcoming destination, and the feedback from our Africa Geographic and Ukuri guests has been overwhelmingly enthusiastic. For those who dream of immersing themselves in one of Earth’s last great wildernesses, this ancient rainforest has a way of exceeding every expectation.
And more good news, this time from Mozambique. The country has released the results of its latest national wildlife census, estimating more than 22,700 elephants and reporting a dramatic decline in elephant carcasses since the previous survey. These findings point to a reduction in large-scale poaching and reflect years of investment in law enforcement, protected areas and cross-border conservation. The census also recorded encouraging signs for other large mammals, including buffalo, giraffe, zebra and hippo. Challenges remain, particularly where people and wildlife increasingly share the same landscapes, but these results show that sustained conservation efforts are making a difference.
This week, we also explore new research showing that safari guides and vehicle behaviour can influence elephants more than fixed viewing distances alone. And for those planning their next adventure, we journey along eight iconic African rivers, discovering the waterways that shape some of the continent’s most extraordinary safari experiences.
Did you know?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
8 AFRICAN RIVERS
Discover eight African river safaris, featuring classic safari destinations, wildlife spectacles and iconic waterways. Part 1 of our African Rivers series.
ELEPHANTS AND GUIDES
A new study finds that safari guides and vehicle approach influence elephant behaviour, suggesting behaviour-based viewing may outperform fixed-distance limits.
Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas
Botswana family adventure – 7 days Experience Botswana’s legendary wildlife on a family safari designed to inspire the next generation of explorers. From mokoro excursions and game drives to child-friendly bush activities, dedicated safari heroes create unforgettable adventures across the Okavango Delta, Moremi and Savute.
Lowland gorilla watching in Odzala-Kokoua NP – 8 days
Western lowland gorillas, forest elephants and one of Africa’s most extraordinary rainforest safaris. Discover one of Africa’s last great wildernesses in Odzala-Kokoua National Park, where western lowland gorillas, forest elephants, bongos, forest buffalo and other elusive rainforest species thrive. View wildlife-rich forest clearings from elevated treehouses and experience an unforgettable safari in the heart of Congo-Brazzaville.
Would you like to be among the first to watch Spots on the Line – our new documentary? Join us on 19 August for the online premiere of Africa Geographic’s original documentary, following the Ingwe Research Program’s race to understand and reduce leopard road deaths in the Greater Kruger (you can check out the film trailer at the bottom of this newsletter).
More than a film, this is a chance to support the research that is helping make Africa’s roads safer for leopards and other wildlife. Every ticket sold contributes directly to Ingwe’s ongoing work, from identifying collision hotspots to developing practical conservation solutions.
Reserve your virtual seat, be part of the premiere, and help turn this story into lasting conservation impact. Tickets are also available for the in-person premiere, to be held in Hoedspruit, South Africa.
Buy your tickets here for either the virtual or in-person premiere, taking place on 19 August. Your ticket helps fund conservation where it matters most.
WATCH
Leopards are remarkably adaptable, but roads are becoming one of their greatest threats. Spots on the Line follows the Ingwe Research Program as it combines years of fieldwork, citizen science and AI to uncover how leopards move through the Greater Kruger landscape, identify deadly road-crossing hotspots and develop practical solutions to save lives. This powerful new Africa Geographic documentary reveals the science, the people and the hope behind one of South Africa’s most important leopard conservation initiatives. Join us on 19 August for the exclusive online premiere and be among the first to watch. (02:04) Click here to watch the trailer
Discover eight of Africa’s most iconic safari rivers, home to the continent’s greatest wildlife spectacles and legendary destinations for river safaris.
Follow the waterways that define the classic African safari, from the Great Migration on the Mara to the Okavango Delta and Victoria Falls.
Explore world-famous national parks, private reserves and wilderness areas shaped by Africa’s greatest rivers.
Experience Africa’s signature river safaris, including game drives, boat cruises, mokoro excursions, canoe safaris and guided walks.
This is Part 1 of our two-part series, celebrating the classic river safaris that belong on every Africa travel bucket list.
Long before the first lion is spotted or the first elephant emerges from the bush, rivers have already shaped the landscape. They carve valleys, nourish forests, sustain floodplains and determine where wildlife gathers. Across Africa, they influence the rhythms of migration, breeding and survival, drawing animals to their banks through seasons of abundance and drought alike.
Some rivers have become synonymous with Africa itself. They host the Great Migration, plunge over the world’s largest waterfalls, disappear into inland deltas or sustain wildlife concentrations found nowhere else on Earth. They are the classic safari rivers – destinations that have inspired generations of travellers and continue to define the African safari experience.
This is the first in our two-part series exploring Africa’s greatest safari rivers. Here, we follow the continent’s iconic waterways – the rivers that belong on every safari lover’s wish list. In Part 2, we’ll venture beyond the classics to discover Africa’s lesser-known safari rivers, where remote wilderness, fewer visitors and extraordinary wildlife await.
Mara River – The river of decision
Hot air ballooning over the Mara River
Few wildlife spectacles compare with the Great Migration. Every year, more than a million wildebeest, accompanied by hundreds of thousands of zebras and gazelles, move through the Serengeti–Mara ecosystem in search of grazing and water. The Mara River is one of the migration’s greatest obstacles, and its crossings have become one of nature’s defining dramas – placing this river as one of our top destinations for river safaris.
The river itself is relatively modest, but its steep banks, strong currents and large Nile crocodiles turn every crossing into a spectacle. Herds may gather for hours before a single wildebeest commits. Within seconds, thousands may follow. Dust, water and chaos meet in a display that no photograph fully captures.
River-crossing opportunities are found in Kenya’s Maasai Mara National Reserve and Tanzania’s northern Serengeti National Park, generally between July and mid-October. However, the timing and location of crossings vary from year to year with rainfall and herd movements, and sightings cannot be guaranteed. Mobile camps that follow the migration offer flexibility, while permanent camps near established crossing areas reward patient wildlife viewing. Sunrise hot-air balloon flights provide another perspective on the scale of the Serengeti–Mara ecosystem.
Wildebeest cross the Mara River in a feast of chaos
Zambezi River – A river of contrasts
The epic curtain of falling water at the heart of the Zambezi River – Victoria Falls
Few rivers transform as dramatically as the Zambezi. At Victoria Falls, it plunges over a basalt edge into a series of gorges, creating one of the world’s largest curtains of falling water when the river is in full flow. Spray rises high above the gorge and sustains a narrow strip of rainforest along the falls.
Travellers come for the spectacle as much as for the surrounding activities, whether white-water rafting through the Batoka Gorge when conditions permit, taking a helicopter flight above the falls, or following rainforest paths to viewpoints along the cataract. The Zambezi is the grand old dame of river safaris, offering an elegant and classic safari experience.
Dry plains in Lower Zambezi National Park
Farther downstream, the Zambezi broadens and slows along Zambia’s Lower Zambezi National Park and Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools National Park. Channels, islands and wooded floodplains create one of Africa’s most atmospheric safari landscapes. Canoe safaris pass elephants, hippos and crocodiles, while guided walks reveal wildlife from ground level.
Victoria Falls can be easily combined with the Lower Zambezi, although reaching Mana Pools generally requires different flight or road arrangements. Together, these destinations reveal both the power and tranquillity of one of Africa’s great rivers.
Chobe River – Where elephants gather
Massive herds of elephants gather along the Chobe River during the dry season
The Chobe River becomes an essential source of water during Botswana’s dry season. As surrounding pans and seasonal water sources diminish, wildlife converges on the river in remarkable numbers, particularly elephants. Family groups arrive throughout the afternoon, crossing channels, swimming between islands and coating themselves in mud before returning to the woodlands.
The Chobe Riverfront offers the best in river safaris, and particularly rewarding wildlife viewing during the dry months, usually from May to October. The river is best experienced through a combination of boat cruises and game drives. Afternoon cruises place visitors close to drinking elephants, buffalo, hippos, crocodiles and abundant waterbirds, while drives explore the floodplains and surrounding woodland in search of predators and plains game.
Chobe also combines easily with nearby Victoria Falls, creating one of southern Africa’s most accessible safari pairings.
Sundowner cruising the Chobe River
Okavango Delta – The river that never reaches the sea
In the heart of the action at Okavango Origins, on the seasonal floodplains of the northern Okavango Delta
The Okavango is one of Earth’s great geographical wonders. Rising in the Angolan Highlands, the river’s origins flow southeast through Namibia’s Caprivi Strip before spreading across northwestern Botswana.
Rather than reaching the ocean, its waters form an enormous inland wetland within the Kalahari Basin. UNESCO describes the Okavango as Africa’s largest endorheic delta – a river system with no outlet to the sea – and one of the world’s few major interior deltas that remains largely intact.
Floodwater originating in Angola arrives in much of the delta during Botswana’s dry winter season. It spreads through a shifting network of channels, permanent swamps, seasonally flooded grasslands and islands, creating an oasis that supports exceptional wildlife. The extent and timing of flooding vary across the delta and between years.
Zebras traverse the wide channels of the Okavango
The delta is best explored through a combination of experiences. Traditional mokoro excursions move quietly through shallow channels, guided walks reveal tracks, plants and smaller wildlife, and game drives on larger islands search for lions, leopards, elephants and African wild dogs.
Many lodges are situated within private or community-managed concessions, including Jao, Vumbura, Kwara, and Abu. Activities and water levels vary significantly between concessions, so the choice of camp should be carefully matched to the season and the traveller’s priorities.
Gliding through the woodland channels of the Okavango Delta on a mokoro
Luangwa River – Birthplace of walking safaris
Walking safari along the Luangwa River in South Luangwa
The Luangwa River follows a naturally shifting course, flooding during the rainy season and leaving behind oxbow lagoons, channels and pools as water levels recede. These habitats sustain high concentrations of wildlife through the dry months. Leopards thrive in the valley, elephants browse beneath riverine trees, and hippos gather in the remaining permanent water.
South Luangwa’s greatest contribution to African safaris is cultural as well as geographical. Conservationist Norman Carr helped pioneer and popularise the modern walking safari in the region, allowing travellers to explore wildlife habitats on foot under the guidance of trained professionals.
South Luangwa National Park remains one of Africa’s leading walking-safari destinations. Combining walks with traditional game drives provides a deeper understanding of the landscape, where animal tracks, birdsong, insects and changes in vegetation become as important as sightings of larger wildlife.
Drama on the banks of the Luangwa River: early rains had swollen the river and cut the pack off from crossing. Here, the collared alpha assessed currents and crocodile risk. See more pics from Sameer Kumar here
The Nile at Murchison Falls – Where a great river roars
The Nile is forced through the narrow cleft at Murchison Falls
At Murchison Falls, the Victoria Nile forces its way through a narrow cleft in the rock before plunging into the gorge below. The water’s compression and force create one of Uganda’s most dramatic natural spectacles.
Below the falls, the river becomes broader and calmer as it flows towards Lake Albert through Murchison Falls National Park. Boat trips along this section regularly reveal hippos, crocodiles, elephants, buffalo and other wildlife along the banks. Giraffes are generally encountered during game drives on the park’s northern savannas rather than near the river.
Shoebills may be found in suitable wetlands, particularly towards the Nile Delta near Lake Albert, but sightings are not guaranteed. Murchison Falls can be combined with chimpanzee trekking in Kibale National Park or mountain-gorilla trekking in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park to create a varied Ugandan wildlife itinerary.
Lazing about near the Nile River in Murchison Falls National Park
Rufiji River – Tanzania’s quieter wilderness
Magic on the Rufiji River
The Rufiji River defines the northern safari area of Nyerere National Park, which was created from part of the former Selous Game Reserve. Its channels, lakes, sandbanks and floodplains distinguish it from Tanzania’s better-known northern safari circuit.
River boat safaris pass hippos, crocodiles and elephants along the river and its associated lakes, while fish eagles, kingfishers, skimmers and other waterbirds patrol the channels. Game drives explore miombo woodland, open plains and riverine habitats in search of lions, buffalo, elephants and African wild dogs.
Hippos lazing in the Rufiji River
At more than 30,000 km², Nyerere protects an immense southern Tanzanian wilderness. It is also an important stronghold for African wild dogs. For travellers seeking a quieter alternative to northern Tanzania, the Rufiji offers a safari experience characterised by expansive landscapes, varied activities and relatively low visitor numbers.
Sabie and Sand rivers – Where leopards bask
Elephants trudge the lush grasses alongside the Sabie River
The Sabie and Sand Rivers flow through South Africa’s Greater Kruger ecosystem – arguably one of the most sought-after Big 5 safari destinations in Africa. The Sabie River crosses southern Kruger National Park, supporting productive riverine habitat and some of the park’s highest concentrations of wildlife. The Sand River flows through the Sabi Sand Nature Reserve before joining the Sabie system.
The Sabi Sand Nature Reserve takes its name from these two rivers and is internationally renowned for reliable leopard viewing. Its long safari history, skilled guides and trackers, and the ability to follow wildlife off established roads under controlled conditions have contributed to the quality of its predator sightings.
Other Greater Kruger reserves, including Timbavati, Thornybush, Klaserie and Balule, form part of the wider unfenced ecosystem but are not defined by the Sabie and Sand rivers. Each has its own waterways, habitats, access rules and tourism model.
Together, Kruger National Park and the adjoining private and community reserves provide an exceptional variety of experiences, from independent self-drive journeys to guided lodge safaris with night drives, walks and off-road tracking where regulations permit.
Sundowners at the Sand River’s edge
Final thoughts on river safaris
Africa’s iconic rivers have shaped far more than landscapes. They have created the wildlife spectacles, national parks and safari experiences that first drew many of us to the continent. Whether experienced from a mokoro in the Okavango, a boat on the Chobe, a canoe along the Zambezi or beside the Mara during a migration crossing, each reveals a different face of wild Africa.
Yet these famous waterways are only part of the story. Beyond them lie rivers that remain less travelled but no less remarkable – waterways flowing through remote deserts, forgotten floodplains and ancient rainforests. In Part 2, we’ll explore Africa’s hidden river safaris, where some of the continent’s most rewarding wilderness experiences still feel like well-kept secrets.
Botswana’s top safari destinations: Discover Botswana’s top safari destinations, from the Okavango Delta and Chobe to Mashatu, Selinda and the Makgadikgadi Pans
The best malaria-free safari destinations: Want to head on safari while avoiding the risk of malaria? Here’s our round-up of the best malaria-free safari destinations in South Africa
Okavango Delta safari planning guide: Plan your Okavango Delta safari: when to go, where to stay and how to experience Botswana’s iconic inland oasis in intimate camp
• A three-year study from KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa, investigated how elephants respond to safari vehicles and individual wildlife guide behaviours. • Elephant behaviour changed most when safari vehicles approached within 20 metres of the animals. • Individual wildlife guides consistently elicited different behavioural responses from the same elephant population. • Warning and uncertainty behaviours declined as viewing distances increased during safari encounters. • Elephants remained alert even at greater distances, despite fewer behavioural responses overall. • Researchers recommend interpreting elephant behaviour rather than relying only on fixed viewing distances.
Ready to experience Africa’s elephants responsibly? Explore our Big 5 safari ideas and let our Safari Experts create a tailor-made safari that respects wildlife and supports conservation.
Every day, safari guides make hundreds of decisions that shape wildlife encounters. How close should they approach? When should they stop? At what point is an elephant no longer simply aware of a vehicle, but reacting to it?
A new South African study suggests those decisions matter. Researchers found that elephants changed their behaviour more frequently when safari vehicles approached within 20 metres, and that different wildlife guides consistently elicited different responses from the same elephant population. Rather than relying on a fixed viewing distance, the authors argue that guides should pay closer attention to what the elephants themselves are communicating through their behaviour.
The study was conducted between 2022 and 2024 on a 5,600-hectare private game reserve in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. The reserve is home to 28 African elephants living in three family groups and one unrelated adult bull. The research was led by scientists from the Centre for Functional Biodiversity at the University of KwaZulu-Natal, with co-authors from Wildlife ACT, Wildlife and Ecological Investments, and the University of KwaZulu-Natal.
Reading elephants and their behaviour
Elephants rarely move directly from calm to aggression. Instead, they communicate through a sequence of behaviours that reflect how they are assessing a situation.
Some behaviours indicate simple awareness of a vehicle. Others suggest uncertainty, vigilance or conflict, while more obvious displays – such as ear spreading, head raising or throwing debris – can signal that an elephant is becoming increasingly uncomfortable. These responses provide a window into how elephants cope with repeated encounters with tourist vehicles.
Previous research has also shown that tourism can increase stress hormone levels in elephants. When stress becomes prolonged, behavioural flexibility may decrease, and aggressive responses can become more likely. Behaviour therefore provides an important way of assessing how elephants experience tourism.
Following elephants over three years
Over three years, the team accompanied commercial game drives, recording 458 videos from 101 elephant sightings – more than 3,400 minutes of elephant behaviour – to investigate how vehicle approach distance and the behaviour of individual wildlife guides influenced elephant responses.
Each time a vehicle stopped or repositioned, the researchers measured its distance from the elephants and recorded how the animals responded. They also noted which wildlife guide was driving, recognising that different guides may have different driving styles and approach strategies.
The recorded behaviours were grouped into six categories, ranging from vigilance and avoidance to interaction with the vehicle, conflict and confrontation, and aggression towards vehicles.
This bull elephant approached the vehicle from a distance and stood there for an extended period before wandering off
Distance changed elephant behaviour
Across all behaviours combined, elephants reacted more frequently when vehicles approached within 20 metres. Behavioural responses declined significantly as viewing distance increased.
The clearest differences were seen in three behavioural categories.
Ambivalent behaviours – including several distinctive trunk movements – became more common at the closest distances. The authors interpret these as signs that elephants may be weighing different responses, such as remaining where they are or moving away.
Conflict and confrontation behaviours, including head raising, ear spreading and throwing debris, were also more frequent when vehicles were close. These warning displays became less common beyond about 40 metres.
The researchers also recorded interactive behaviours, such as elephants approaching, smelling or touching vehicles. Although these encounters are often viewed positively by tourists, the authors note that they still represent a behavioural response to the vehicle rather than an absence of disturbance.
Interestingly, vigilance behaviours did not differ significantly across viewing distances, suggesting that elephants can remain aware of approaching vehicles even when they are 80 to 100 metres away.
Researchers found that elephants displayed more behavioural responses when safari vehicles approached within 20 metres
Not all guides produced the same responses
The study also found that individual wildlife guides consistently approached elephants at different distances. Some guides were associated with significantly higher frequencies of ambivalent behaviour, while one guide triggered significantly more conflict and confrontation behaviours than the baseline guide.
The authors suggest these differences likely reflect individual approach strategies and driving styles. The study did not identify the guide or examine which aspects of their approach strategy contributed to these responses. They also point to previous research showing that elephants can recognise individual humans and have strong long-term memories, raising the possibility that elephants learn to associate particular vehicles or guides with previous experiences.
Looking beyond fixed viewing distances
Many reserves use minimum viewing distances for elephants, but these recommendations vary considerably.
To interpret elephant behaviour, the researchers used the Awareness Zones model developed by Save the Elephants. The idea is that the elephant’s behaviour determines whether a vehicle should remain where it is or retreat. Rather than relying on a fixed viewing distance, the model classifies an elephant’s response into four behavioural zones. In the Comfort Zone, elephants continue their normal activities with little sign of disturbance. In the Alert Zone, they become aware of a vehicle but generally remain calm while monitoring it. The Warning Zone is marked by behaviours indicating increasing discomfort, such as head raising, ear spreading or other displays that signal a vehicle has come too close. The Critical Zone represents the point at which an elephant may flee or respond aggressively if the pressure continues. The model is designed to help guides read the elephant’s behaviour in real time, recognising that different individuals and populations may tolerate different viewing distances.
In this study, elephants were more likely to remain in their Comfort Zone at greater viewing distances, while Alert Zone responses became more common during closer encounters. Critical Zone responses occurred across most viewing distances, but not in the 81–100 metre category.
A behavioural approach
The authors conclude that both vehicle proximity and the behaviour of individual wildlife guides influence how elephants respond to safari vehicles. Because elephant populations, habitats and previous experiences differ between reserves, they suggest that interpreting elephant behaviour through the Awareness Zones model may be more useful than relying on a single predetermined viewing distance. They also recommend reserve-specific codes of conduct and guide training that places greater emphasis on recognising elephant behaviour during encounters.
The study proposes that elephant behaviour itself may provide a better guide to human proximity than relying on a fixed viewing distance alone
Reference
Roos, Tenisha & Garai, Marion & Eggeling, Tamara & Bolaños, Antonio & Mitchell, Brett & Delsink, Audrey. (2026). Too Close for Comfort: The Effect of Wildlife Guides on Elephant Behaviour. African Journal of Wildlife Research. 56. DOI: 10.3957/056.056.0215.
Are viral safari guides putting content before conservation? Adam Bannister’s opinion editorial is a call to restore ethics, respect, and integrity in wildlife guiding
Will Kruger’s private reserves cull elephants? Explore the science and policy behind the APNR elephant management debate in Simon Espley’s opinion editorial
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
Elephant culling: what the science actually says
My networks have been buzzing with claims that culling is back on the table in some of the Kruger private reserves (APNR) – the same reserves we hold up as tourism success stories. When I’ve pressed senior APNR management on the science behind their thinking, the responses have been vague, defensive, and at times openly hostile. That reaction is what convinced me to dig in and write the article below.
It’s a long read, and deliberately so. There’s a lot to take in, and I’d ask you to sit with it rather than skim. You’ll hear from scientists and elephant experts about ice cream trees, fear zones, and why culling won’t do what its advocates promise; it won’t save the trees.
What you’ll come to see is that culling means killing a threatened species with a rapidly declining population to compensate for our own past, and ongoing, conservation blunders.
The debate is dominated by a slogan: “there are too many elephants, so cull them.” It’s a clean line, and that’s exactly the problem; it collapses the moment you test it against the evidence. Even careful, intelligent people reach for that straight-line logic, because it settles an uncomfortable question quickly. The science doesn’t let us off so easily.
This article will frustrate anyone hoping the answer is simple. But the elephants deserve better than a slogan, and so do you.
So read it in full. Weigh what the experts actually say. And if you find it useful, pass it on. Then, if APNR management do decide to cull – in whatever form, and whatever they choose to call the intentional killing of elephants – respect that the decision is theirs to make, but hold them personally accountable for it. These are, after all, our elephants.
Could asking the spirits for help be the answer to our environmental troubles?In southern Benin, conservationists have found a unique way to ensure the protection of disappearing mangrove forests, and it isn’t through fences or fines. They’re working with Vodun spiritual leaders to declare threatened mangroves sacred. Before a forest is protected, a Fâ priest seeks permission from the spirits, drawing on the authority of the Zangbéto deity to prohibit the cutting down of trees, fishing, and other destructive activities. In some villages, spiritual guardians ensure these traditions are upheld. For many local communities, that spiritual authority carries more weight than any government regulation. The approach has already helped safeguard around 500 hectares of mangroves, protecting one of West Africa’s most important carbon stores. Where conservation builds on deeply held cultural values, protection can become part of everyday life rather than simply a legal obligation.
This week, discover why Kenya’s Meru National Park deserves a place on every safari traveller’s radar, from its remarkable wildlife recovery to its rich conservation history. Plus, don’t miss Simon’s Op-Ed on the great elephant management debate.
Did you know?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
OP ED: KRUGER CULLING
Will Kruger’s private reserves cull elephants? Simon Espley explores the science and policy behind the elephant management debate
MERU NP
Meru National Park is a resilient expanse of vital Kenyan wilderness. This Big 5 safari destination of Born Free fame is a land reborn
Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas
Liuwa & Busanga – Zambia’s iconic floodplains – 12 days Liuwa and Busanga’s seemingly boundless horizon reminds us of East Africa’s most renowned safari destinations – MINUS THE CROWDS. Discover Zambia at its wildest across the Busanga Plains and Liuwa Plain National Park, where vast floodplains, dramatic skies and remote wilderness set the stage for exceptional wildlife. Expect thriving predator populations, seasonal wildflowers, abundant birdlife and Africa’s second largest wildebeest migration, all without the crowds.
Maasai Mara explorer – 11 days
This safari explores two distinct regions of the Maasai Mara, from the wild solitude of the Sand River in the south to the Mara River crossing drama of the central reserve. Expect exceptional Big Five and predator sightings, authentic owner-run tented camps, meaningful Maasai cultural encounters and seamless flights between camps, allowing more time to experience one of Africa’s greatest wildlife spectacles.
AG safari guests Rui and Natercia from Portugal went on a Congo Basin expedition to find gorillas in Odzala-Kokoua, Congo-Brazzaville.
Odzala-Kokoua and Camp Imbalanga. “The organisation of our trip to Camp Imbalanga in Odzala-Kokoua NP was extremely professional and efficient. Luis and Lumbani were tireless in easing our doubts and making sure that the safari fitted our wishes. Their help with the thorough preparation of all visa documents for the Congo embassy ensured a seamless entry into the country. And last but not least, Camp Imbalanga was a good surprise – Imbalanga Baï gifted us with unforgettable sightings of unhabituated lowland gorilla families. The Congo Basin forests and rivers in Odzala-Kokoua were so beautiful and pristine that we felt as though we were the first humans there.”
Check out our new Shorts series, Masters of disguise. In each instalment, we’ll look at a different African animal that has mastered the art of camouflage. Join our safari expert, Stefan Winterboer, as he explains why the leopard is the ultimate master of disguise. (01:17) Click here to watch
With unearthly stands of gaunt doum palms, sprawling grasslands, twisting riverine forests, and swamps populated by abundant wildlife, Meru National Park is perhaps Kenya’s best-kept (or maybe forgotten) safari secret. Exploring this national park is less about ticking off a checklist or rushing to the next sighting, and more about marvelling at the scale of this unspoilt wilderness free from the crowds of the more popular Kenyan safari circuits.
There is no doubt that had Joy Adamson still been alive today to witness the miraculous recovery of Meru National Park, she would have been delighted. Today, the park has been restored to its former glory – a magnificent chunk of wilderness central to one of Kenya’s largest protected areas.
Meru National Park and the Meru Conservation Area
Meru National Park occupies 870km² (87,000 hectares) of eastern Kenya, some 300km from the capital city Nairobi and offering views of snow-capped Mount Kenya on the distant western horizon. The park forms a vital part of the much larger Meru Conservation Area, which centres around the Tana River system and protects nearly 5,000km² (500,000 hectares). It covers habitats that range from lush green vegetation on rich volcanic soils to semi-arid scrublands and open plains. The formally described Meru Conservation Area includes Meru and Kora national parks and the adjoining Bisanadi and Mwingi reserves. Some broader regional descriptions also include neighbouring Rahole National Reserve. The result is one of Kenya’s most extensive protected spaces, second only to the Tsavo ecosystem in size.
A sundowner bush walk reveals tracks, plants and smaller details easily missed from a safari vehicle
Meru National Park
870km2 (87,000 hectares)
Kora National Park
1,787km2 (178,700 hectares)
Bisanadi National Reserve
606km2 (60,600 hectares)
Mwingi National Reserve
745 km2 (74,500 hectares)
Rahole National Reserve
870km2 (87,000 hectares)
The Tana River, which forms much of Meru’s southern boundary, is Kenya’s longest river. Its headwaters and tributaries drain the Aberdare Range and Mount Kenya before the river flows southeast to the Indian Ocean. The many permanent rivers that flow through Meru, including the major Rojerwero and Ura Rivers, are part of the Tana River basin and define the landscape of the park. These waterways are fed by springs on the Nyambeni Mountains and flow in parallel, creating the impression that the park is made up of a series of islands. Beneath a thick fringe of riverine forest, hippos and crocodiles lurk in the dark waters.
Many permanent rivers that flow through Meru form part of the Tana River basin
The wilderness that inspired Born Free
Like many of Africa’s protected areas, Meru’s story is one of triumphs and tragedies. The park gained international renown during the 1960s when the adventures of George and Joy Adamson and their hand-raised lioness Elsa made first literary and then cinematic history. The Adamsons raised Elsa from a cub, and Joy documented their experiences in a series of autobiographical books, the Born Free series. Elsa was eventually successfully released into Meru National Park to live wild, and her final resting place is marked by a small gravesite on the park’s southern boundary. The park’s popularity skyrocketed when the eponymous film was produced, and visitors flocked to explore the famous setting.
Tragedy struck during the 1980s as poaching and unrest tore through much of Kenya. Both Joy and George were murdered in separate incidents, and the region’s wildlife was decimated. The park fell into disrepair, and the flood of tourists slowed to a trickle before drying up almost entirely. Hope came some 20 years later when concerted conservation work by the Kenya Wildlife Service, the French Development Agency and the International Fund for Animal Welfare set in motion the painstaking process of returning the park to its former glory. The infrastructure was repaired with a substantial cash donation, and security and anti-poaching measures were put in place.
Meru’s hillside lodges overlook a vast mosaic of plains, rocky ridges, woodland and riverine forest.An elephant moves through Meru’s green seasonal landscape – a landscape nourished by rivers flowing from the Nyambeni highlands
For the birds, and the Big 5
Today, the park is one of the country’s best maintained, but, more importantly, the wildlife and ecosystem have bounced back. Relocations of various species bolstered remaining populations, and Big 5 sightings are increasingly common (though not guaranteed). Elephant numbers have grown from fewer than 210 at the height of the poaching to over 900. The region is also considered a Lion Conservation Unit by the IUCN. Though the long grasses in some areas can make predator spotting challenging, lions, cheetahs, and leopards are all present in healthy numbers, and encounters are even more special because they are seldom shared with anyone else.
A tense scene on Meru’s wildlife-rich plains
The park’s reintroduced rhinos – black and white – are restricted to a smaller, fenced sanctuary where they can be best protected. However, this does little to detract from the wildness of the experience – the 84km² (8,400 hectares) section is perfectly sized to ensure that eager tourists have to work for their sightings!
Meru is home to the endangered Grévy’s zebraReticulated giraffes cross the plains, their prominent third ossicones and geometric coats identifying features of northern Kenya’s iconic species
Iconic animals aside, the many varied habitats of Meru are made all the more unique by the disparate rainfall levels across the park. This ensures a spectacular variety of fauna and flora, from moist savanna to the more arid specialists. Large herds of buffalo, impalas and zebras trudge through the swamps and feed alongside the rivers, and the sharp whistles of alarmed Bohor reedbucks hint at their presence in the reeds. The stark geometric patterns of reticulated giraffes tower over the woodlands. Lesser kudus, gerenuks, common beisa oryx, Grévy’s zebras and Somali ostriches prefer the drier parts of the park, while the tiny Günther’s and Kirk’s dik-diks are ubiquitous throughout.
A white-throated bee-eater feasts on a stink beetle – one small highlight in a park recording more than 420 bird species. See more pics from Rudolf Hug here
The same diversity of habitats supporting Meru’s assortment of mammal species makes the park exceptionally attractive to birding enthusiasts. Over 420 species have been recorded here, with everything from wetland birds to grassland and woodland specials. Pel’s fishing owls lurk beneath the canopies of the dense river trees. Other birds of particular interest include Hinde’s babbler, African finfoot, red-necked falcon, three-banded courser, Somali bee-eater, golden palm weaver, Boran cisticola and black-billed wood-hoopoe.
A rhino and calf pass a game-drive vehicle inside Meru’s intensively protected rhino sanctuary
Explore and stay in Meru
Meru National Park lies roughly 290–350km by road from Nairobi, depending on the chosen route and entrance gate. Travellers can approach through Embu and Ura Gate or travel via Nyeri, Nanyuki and Meru town towards Murera Gate. Although much of the main journey is on surfaced roads, the transfer generally occupies most of a day once stops and the final approach are included. A high-clearance 4×4 is recommended, particularly during the wetter months when unsurfaced roads inside and near the park may become slippery or uneven.
Sundowners from a private verandah at Elsa’s Kopje bring a quiet close to the day as evening light settles across Meru’s uncrowded wilderness
Flying is the quickest and most comfortable option to reach Meru. Light aircraft and private charters use several airstrips within or near the park, including Kinna, Mulika and Mughwango. The most convenient airstrip depends on the location of the lodge, and road transfers are arranged between the airstrip and accommodation.
Meru has a relatively small and varied selection of places to stay. At the upper end are intimate boutique lodges built into rocky hillsides or positioned above open plains, riverine forest and wildlife-rich valleys. These usually offer spacious cottages or tented suites, full-board dining, swimming pools and privately guided game activities, including night drives. Their limited room numbers suit couples, honeymooners and travellers seeking privacy.
Canvas accommodation at Rhino River Camp looks into leafy forest beside the slow-flowing Kindani River
Smaller tented camps offer a closer connection to Meru’s forests and rivers, often with canvas rooms set beneath mature trees or overlooking seasonal waterways. Some camps lie just outside the park boundary, providing convenient access to the rhino sanctuary and western game-viewing areas.
KWS also operates guesthouses, cottages and public or special campsites for self-drive travellers and visitors seeking simpler accommodation. Camping requires greater self-sufficiency, including food, drinking water, equipment and sufficient fuel. Facilities and access conditions should be confirmed before arrival.
A private sundowner stop offers time to absorb Meru’s scale between afternoon and evening game viewing
Safaris in Meru
Meru offers a quieter alternative to Kenya’s busiest safari destinations. Visitor numbers remain low, game drives are seldom crowded, and sightings often unfold without several vehicles gathering around the same animals.
A coalition of young males in Meru
Meru pairs particularly well with destinations offering a contrasting landscape or safari style. Mount Kenya and the Laikipia Plateau add highland scenery, private conservancies, walking and community-based experiences. Samburu, Buffalo Springs and Shaba extend the northern-species theme through more arid country. The Maasai Mara adds open plains, denser concentrations of predators and, seasonally, the Great Migration. A beach stay on Kenya’s coast can also follow Meru for a bush-and-beach itinerary.
enjoying the quiet that distinguishes a Meru safari
A land triumphantly reborn
It is common for travel articles on Meru (and many other parts of Africa) to describe the park as “unspoilt”. This is an understandably attractive representation – one which recreates the ‘blue chip’ documentary feeling of a vast wilderness untouched by human influence. But Meru is not untouched or unspoilt and to describe it as such is to understate the effort that has gone into undoing the damage of history.
Instead, Meru National Park is an extraordinary expanse of vital Kenyan wilderness, restored and resilient. And in the process, it has returned once again to a safe and immersive safari destination – a land reborn.
Further reading
Compare Kenya’s famous Maasai Mara with Meru and explore one of Africa’s greatest wildlife destinations, renowned for the Great Migration and exceptional predator sightings. Check out our Maasai Mara safari guide
Discover where to stay, when to visit, the wildlife to expect and why Samburu is one of Kenya’s most rewarding safari destinations. Check out our Samburu National Reserve guide
Learn why Laikipia’s private conservancies, remarkable wildlife diversity and exclusive safari experiences pair perfectly with a visit to Samburu. See our Laikipia safari guide
An Africa Geographic investigation into the elephant culling debate unfolding in South Africa’s Associated Private Nature Reserves (APNR). By CEO Simon Espley
Scientists argue elephant impacts depend more on movement than overall population size.
Artificial waterholes concentrate elephants, intensifying local damage to vulnerable tree species.
Research suggests managing elephant distribution is more effective than broad-scale culling.
APNR’s plan to include elephant culling in their management plan has prompted calls by Africa Geographic for greater scientific transparency and public accountability.
South African law allows culling only after other management options have been properly considered.
The elephant culling debate has returned to the private reserves that share an unfenced border with South Africa’s Kruger National Park – and it has returned carrying all the old ghosts.
Member game reserves, Timbavati, Klaserie, Umbabat, Balule, and Thornybush, that make up the Associated Private Nature Reserves (APNR), are Big Five tourism meccas that can surely not afford the likely political storm should they choose to cull elephants. At the same time, the APNR is economically dependent on tourism models built around aesthetic landscapes and iconic, easily accessible wildlife species. This dilemma is reflected in the current ideological chasm between the opposite sides of this debate.
The rationale behind the rumblings about culling is familiar: that localised elephant concentrations are placing severe pressure on large trees in sections of the APNR used for tourism and trophy hunting.
But the scientific debate surrounding elephant culling in southern Africa has changed profoundly over the past three decades, since culling was last practised.
Today, the scientific argument is not about “too many elephants.” It is about spatial ecology, landscape homogenisation, artificial water provision, ecosystem resilience, ethical conservation, and the role humans play in creating the very conditions now being used to justify culling.
Important context: these reserves share an unfenced boundary with Kruger National Park. So the elephants move freely across a landscape jointly managed by SANParks and adjoining private reserves, within a national regulatory framework. These elephants are held in trust by SANParks, a public entity, on behalf of the people of South Africa.
What this situation demands, above all, is transparency, open debate and a clear-eyed assessment of the science. Not so, according to APNR chairperson Richard Napier, who is also chairperson of Thornybush Collection, Thornybush Nature Reserve. More about that later.
In a world packed with noise, facts matter. And in the absence of detailed public information from APNR management, we provide the information you need here so you can make up your own mind about this issue. We offer the best available evidence from published peer-reviewed literature, South Africa’s national management frameworks, and leading elephant scientists on what culling can and cannot achieve, what alternatives exist, and why the APNR finds itself at this crossroads.
The APNR context: a system without fences, yet not without constraints
To understand the elephant (Loxodonta africana) question in the APNR, one must first understand the landscape. Since 1993, when the boundary fences between the private reserves and Kruger National Park were removed, wildlife has been free to roam across roughly 2,2 million hectares. The APNR contributes about 200,000 hectares to this matrix.
Kruger’s elephant management framework, which strongly influences regional management approaches, emphasises that elephant management should increasingly focus on influencing movement patterns rather than on reducing elephant numbers. The strategic shift is toward adaptive, site-specific management aimed at restoring ecological heterogeneity rather than maintaining fixed carrying capacities.
The total Kruger landscape, including the national park, APNR and other private and community-owned reserves, while vast, is a managed system bounded by fences, roads, settlements, and human infrastructure on all sides except where it opens to Mozambique and Zimbabwe in the east and north.
This distinction is important to the elephant debate. Writing in 2024, plant ecologist Professor Eugene Moll, in a widely read Daily Maverick op-ed, put it plainly: “Kruger is not an open system. It is fenced. Movement is constrained. Predators do not regulate elephant numbers. Humans do. That makes Kruger a managed system, whether we are comfortable with that idea or not.” The same logic applies to the APNR reserves, which are used more intensively for tourism and trophy hunting and contain a denser network of artificial waterpoints.
The Kruger National Park’s elephant population stands at approximately 39,390 (35,468-43,312) individuals, according to SANParks – derived from their 2025 sample surveys. SANParks does not estimate elephant numbers for the APNR.
Proponents of elephant culling have long insisted that the Kruger National Park can sustain only about 7,500 elephants, which is based on outdated management practise from the mid-1900s. The thinking is also based on a subjective preference for mature trees, open savanna mosaics and habitat stability. And yet, ecosystems and wildlife populations are not stable; they are constantly changing.
Dr Sam Ferreira of SANParks explained in a podcast with Origins Foundation that the 7,500 figure was never scientifically derived – it originated from a ship’s hold capacity to livestock carrying-capacity models applied to wildlife, yielding an arbitrary 0.3 elephants per km² across 2 million hectares.
Ferreira goes on to explain that historic carrying-capacity estimates are highly uncertain and depend heavily on habitat assumptions. In the podcast interview, he notes that some estimates place Kruger’s carrying capacity between 2.1 and 5 elephants per km², depending on habitat type. He also explained that elephant impact is not a function of how many elephants there are. Instead, it is a function of elephant activity. He elaborated that 10 elephants will have the same impact as 100 elephants concentrated in one area because of the ‘Ice Cream Aisle’ effect.
As Ferreira points out, “Saying that 30,000 elephants are destroying Kruger is like blaming a bee for ruining a garden. It’s not that simple. Elephants go where the resources are. When there’s plenty of water and food, they stick around, snack on trees, and, yes, sometimes knock a few over. But when resources shift, so do the elephants.”
Just as humans love ice cream and head to that supermarket aisle, elephants prefer certain tree species, such as marula (Sclerocarya birrea), knobthorn (Senegalia nigrescens), and red bushwillow (Combretum apiculatum), and will always gravitate to areas with those trees. If water is provided nearby, elephants will seldom move far from those trees. Culling their numbers will not alter that dynamic, because even a handful of elephants will have the same effect.
Dr Mike Chase is an elephant biologist, founder of Elephants Without Borders, and is widely regarded as one of the world’s foremost authorities on elephant population dynamics at the landscape and continental scale. He was the principal investigator of the Great Elephant Census (2014–2016), the most comprehensive continent-wide survey of savanna elephants ever conducted. A major finding of the census is that the African elephant population declined by 144,000 animals in just seven years (2007–2014), at an annual rate of 8%.
This is the essential context for any discussion about elephant culling. Proponents of lethal management advocate for culling a species that is globally listed as Endangered and has a rapidly declining population. Politically convenient population narratives that drive local management decisions while ignoring the species’ plight are precisely what the APNR needs to guard against as it frames its culling case.
Elephants are recognised as ecosystem engineers, shaping savanna landscapes through their movements and feeding behaviour
What should the Kruger look like?
Proponents of elephant culling often argue from a particular vision of what Kruger should look like, while others prioritise ecological processes and landscape change.
Ferreira explained that research shows that trees were falling over before elephants were culled between 1967 and 1994, and that they continued to do so after culling. “This tells me that other dynamics are happening, and we need to shift our reference window far longer back”.
He explained that it is important to understand the Kruger history when assessing what the landscape ‘should’ look like. The Kruger landscape had a large elephant population in the 1700s. These elephants were decimated by ivory hunting, when Portuguese and Arab hunters and traders stripped the area (of humans and elephants), as evidenced by export records.
Then there was the outbreak of Rinderpest in the late 19th century that devastated the continent’s wildlife. Particularly affected were antelope such as impala and nyala, which eat trees at the sapling stage, and are exponentially larger consumers of trees than elephants.
This combined decimation of wildlife resulted in the Kruger landscape developing over a period of 200-250 years, with little herbivore use and the consequent growth of many trees.
Ferreira referred to the work of Dr Uys de Villiers (“Tol”) Pienaar, who argued based on historical records, early ranger accounts, photographs, hunter diaries, and ecological observations, that much of the Kruger landscape in earlier historical times was considerably more open and less densely wooded than many people now assume.
A small herd crosses a river in Kruger
This means that the Kruger National Park, as it was inherited by park managers when it was established in 1926, was very different from what it had been 250 years earlier. Ferreira observed that their reference point at the time was therefore artificial and that the removal of dense tree cover by elephants and other natural processes is arguably nature restoring Kruger to what it was.
He mentioned that some areas in Kruger currently have more trees than before, while others have fewer, and that the park now has more woody cover than ever. This spread of woody cover is a function of climate change (more carbon in the air), and elephants are among the most important natural agents limiting woody thickening, alongside factors such as fire and grass covering.
Importantly, more trees do not automatically equate to better conservation outcomes: South Africa’s grasslands and open savannas are globally important ecosystems, and excessive woody encroachment can threaten species that depend on open habitats.
Modern ecology increasingly recognises that ecosystems are dynamic, disturbance-driven systems. Elephants are now widely recognised as ecosystem engineers and keystone species capable of creating biodiversity-enhancing heterogeneity when their impacts are spatially variable.
The water question: how a management decision became an ecological problem
The most illuminating thread in the current elephant debate is all about water; specifically, the unintended consequences of providing artificial water to a landscape whose ecological dynamics are fundamentally governed by water scarcity.
Dr Jeanetta Selier, speaking in an extended interview for the Origins Foundation Podcast, notes that Kruger National Park management established many artificial waterholes in the 1960s, 70s and 80s. The initial motivation was not ecological management but visitor experience: keeping wildlife visible and accessible near roads and rest camps. The ecological consequences, particularly the effect on elephant distribution and population dynamics, were not fully understood at the time. It was only in the late 1990s that KNP began closing a significant portion of those waterholes, roughly two-thirds of them by the early 2000s, as part of a deliberate shift toward restoring naturalised water gradients across the landscape.
Artificial water provisioning increased dry-season herbivore residency, reduced natural movement patterns and contributed to landscape homogenisation.
She describes the mechanism with exceptional clarity. In a natural savanna system, she explains, elephants are forced to concentrate around permanent water sources during the dry season and to disperse widely in the wet season when water is abundant, to find food. This seasonal rhythm serves as a natural population regulator. Many calves die from prolonged periods without water and from walking long distances.
But what happens when water is available everywhere, year-round? Selier explains that in that case, elephants do not need to move great distances to find water. Consequently, they utilise the nearby food sources (primarily trees) intensively for a much longer period. Fewer calves die, and the population grows more rapidly.
The data supporting this argument is striking. Selier’s research found that, before Kruger began closing artificial waterholes in the late 1990s, elephants in Kruger spent 75% of their time in exactly the same locations during both wet and dry seasons. In most parts of Africa, seasonal home-range overlap ranges from 0 to 35%.
After Kruger National Park revised its water policy and began closing artificial waterholes and boreholes, Selier notes, “We started seeing increases in juvenile mortalities and a drop in the growth rate of the elephant population across the Kruger landscape, and we’re seeing elephants using the landscape more variably.”
“SANParks’ current scientific understanding is that elephant impacts are driven less by elephant numbers alone and more by the intensity and duration of elephant activities in specific ecologically sensitive areas,” Ferreira told Africa Geographic, when asked to comment on SANParks’ current scientific position on the role of artificial water provisioning in influencing elephant behaviours. “Water, together with food, comfort, and safety, strongly influences elephant movement patterns and localised space use.”
“Artificial water provisioning can increase prolonged elephant use of sensitive areas, contributing to localised vegetation impacts and habitat degradation,” Ferreira continues. “SANParks therefore follows a mechanism-based, spatially explicit approach focused on altering elephant activities and space use at local scales. Interventions may include changing water provisioning and, where necessary, reducing local elephant densities in ecologically sensitive areas.”
The consequence of a dense, perennial water network is the piosphere effect – zones of extreme herbivore pressure radiating outward from waterpoints where vegetation degradation is intense and self-reinforcing. The APNR’s water infrastructure, in short, is actively concentrating elephants, thereby magnifying their impact on the vegetation the reserves are being asked to protect.
These findings are reinforced by a recent study from the Greater Kruger landscape, which found that reconnecting protected areas after decades of elephant exclusion has led to rapid changes in woody vegetation, with the most pronounced impacts occurring where elephant densities exceed approximately three elephants per square kilometre. Crucially, the authors conclude that artificial water provisioning and long-term landscape fragmentation have amplified these localised impacts, reinforcing the view that effective management should focus on elephant movement and distribution rather than elephant numbers alone.
When questioned by AG about APNR plans to follow the KNP example of closing artificial waterholes, Napier and Balule and APNR Head Warden Ian Nowak did not provide detailed responses regarding possible waterhole closures.
A subsequent conversation with another reserve official confirmed that waterhole negotiations among landowners are deeply political, making rationalisation difficult in practice.
Kruger began closing artificial waterholes in the late 1990s
The disappearing ice cream trees, the marula
No species better illustrates the tension at the heart of this debate than the marula tree (Sclerocarya birrea). An iconic component of the lowveld savanna, this tree is relished by elephants at every stage of growth, from bark and leaves to fruit. Sapling marulas are equally palatable to impala, nyala, and other browsers, suppressing regeneration even where mature trees survive.
Professor Eugene Moll’s 2026 Daily Maverick op-ed documents the trajectory with the authority of a lifetime’s botanical fieldwork: “Historical photographs of central Kruger show magnificent stands of mature marulas with expansive canopies. Today, in many areas, what remains are broken trunks, stripped bark and bare ground. In places like the Crocodile Bridge area, the pattern is unmistakable: elephants have smashed or ring-barked the trees, and exceptionally high numbers of impala and other herbivores have removed every seedling and sapling that tries to establish. The result is a closed ecological trap. Old trees are dying, and young trees are not replacing them.”
Ferreira provides a more nuanced scientific counterpoint: “Animals, especially big animals, influence what’s there. There are places where trees increase; there are places where trees decrease.” Ferreira has identified 56 Kruger areas of concern, but revealed an unexpected finding: tree loss did not correlate neatly with elephant density. “What really concerned me is why do I have as high elephant impact when the elephant densities were very low?”
Ferreira’s argument is not that the impacts of elephants are benign. It is that managing by number alone, the underlying logic of culling, misdiagnoses the problem. The critical variable is not how many elephants are present, but where they spend their time, for how long, and what attracts them there. “What is the mechanism of elephants having influence at a locality?” he asks. “And given that I now know what that mechanism is, what is my best way to interfere with the mechanism?”
Marula trees are among elephants’ favourite food sources. Scientists say managing elephant movement may be more effective than reducing elephant numbers
Historical culling: what the science shows
Elephant culling is not a new idea in South Africa. Between 1967 and 1994, Kruger National Park culled 14,629 elephants in a systematic effort to keep the population below 7,500 animals. The programme was suspended in 1994, due to growing international opposition and contested ecological justifications.
The scientific consensus on the Kruger culling period is illuminating. Dr Selier describes the outcome candidly: “If we look at the culling programme for elephants, the purpose of culling was the assumption that if we bring down the numbers, or manage the numbers, trees won’t die. That didn’t work out that way. Trees were still dying at the same rate as they were dying before, bringing elephant numbers down.” The reason, as Ferreira’s work later clarified, is that culling addresses density but not behaviour, and elephant impacts in many localities are driven primarily by the latter.
This is consistent with Owen-Smith et al.’s landmark 2006 paper in the South African Journal of Science, which found that the spatial distribution of elephants, governed by access to water, matters more than absolute population size.
Scholes and Mennell’s comprehensive 2008 scientific assessment, Elephant Management: A Scientific Assessment for South Africa, commissioned by the South African government to inform the new norms and standards, noted that culling entire family groups causes severe psychological trauma to elephants and disrupts social structure in ways that can persist across generations.: an impact documented extensively by Cynthia Moss, Joyce Poole, and their colleagues at the Amboseli Elephant Research Project.
Research by Rob Slotow and colleagues on the consequences of orphaned juvenile elephants, the young bulls that survived Kruger’s culling programme and were translocated elsewhere, documented the severe behavioural pathologies that resulted. These included extraordinarily high rates of aggression and the killing of white rhinos at Pilanesberg. The subsequent introduction of older bull elephants resolved the behavioural crisis.
Kruger National Park employees slitting the throats of culled elephants
Landscapes of fear
Both Ferreira and Selier refer to the strategy of creating “landscapes of fear”. This amounts to creating so much associated elephant stress about an area that they avoid it.
For example, it is well known that elephants, if they can, often avoid areas where trophy hunting is regularly practised. Chase notes that elephants often move out of known hunting areas, such as those in the APNR, and gather in other areas, thereby worsening tree destruction by concentrating them in smaller areas.
By contrast, culling is not illegal. Ferreira notes that an effective way to achieve a ‘landscape of fear’ without breaking the law is to engage in selective culling, although this remains a controversial and highly debated management approach. And yet, he points out, shooting a small number of elephants will not achieve the desired effect of saving the ice cream trees, because other elephants will step in to exploit them.
Additionally, creating fear zones around iconic tree locations would be a bizarre, ill-conceived strategy, as these are also prime tourist zones where tourists want to see elephants. This juxtaposition of cause and effect and law versus ethics bedevils the culling debate.
APNR elephant culling – the battle for transparency
A few months ago, during a chance encounter, APNR chairperson Richard Napier told me that elephant culling could form part of the amended elephant management plan once approved. He strongly defended this position during our discussion. This wasn’t the first warning sign: weeks earlier, an angry APNR landowner had messaged me with equal certainty that culling would begin, and another landowner told me that reserve management was under significant pressure from certain landowners to cull.
At a subsequent meeting, called by Napier to discuss elephant management, the discussion centred on elephant culling as one of the management options under consideration, as well as pressure from some landowners. Despite inviting us to discuss the matter, he did not provide the scientific evidence or analysis underpinning his position. He was openly critical of our request for transparency and of Africa Geographic’s commitment to science-based conservation reporting.
At the same meeting, Nowak dismissed ongoing elephant collar research, saying, “Why would we need elephant collars? If we want to know where an elephant is, we will ask our rangers.” This view contrasts with the emphasis placed on telemetry and long-term monitoring as management tools, and with the views of prominent elephant scientists, discussed in this article. Nowak is a noted critic of tourism as a conservation tool and a proponent of trophy hunting, despite repeated controversial trophy-hunting incidents occurring at Balule.
I got the impression during the meeting that both men were uncomfortable with the word ‘culling’ and were looking for alternative terminology. An average of over 200 elephants are killed each year in the Kruger National Park, a reality that goes by without much public attention. SANParks has historically provided limited public detail about the reasons for management-related elephant deaths, although a breakdown published by Howard Hendricks and Sam Ferreira has now clarified that 207 of 951 elephant deaths over six years resulted from conservation management interventions*. These may include elephants that were deemed to be so-called ‘problem animals’ due to breaking infrastructure or threatening human lives inside or outside the park. Perhaps the APNR management plan is to define elephants that are known to push over large trees near lodges as ‘problem animals’ and to shoot them in order to create fear zones in those areas. Of course, I am speculating here based on my discussions with APNR officials, but this strategy would enable them to cull elephants under another name, and perhaps avoid provoking the same public reaction as if they did so by historical methods.
A subsequent informal conversation with another reserve official offered a softer picture: he downplayed the likelihood of culling. He noted that any such decision would require a public consultation process. That was somewhat reassuring, but given concerns that larger landowners could have disproportionate influence in such a process, it did little to ease my concern that personal ideology was overriding science. Smaller landowners and lodge owners we contacted independently were unaware of any plans for culling.
Given the contradictory messaging, secrecy, and pressures at play, I felt it necessary to bring this issue into the public spotlight.
Supporters of intervention argue that the issue is not simply elephant numbers but the loss of mature tree cohorts, reduced regeneration of species such as marula, and potential impacts on species that depend on woodland habitats. They contend that reserve managers have a responsibility to intervene when biodiversity objectives are threatened. Whether culling is the appropriate intervention remains the central point of disagreement.
A tree knocked down by elephants in Kruger
The alternatives: what does the science support?
Several elephant management options exist, each with advantages and limitations. The strongest scientific support is for reducing artificial water provisioning, which research in Kruger suggests can alter elephant movement patterns, reduce localised impacts on vegetation and slow population growth. For the APNR, where extensive artificial water infrastructure remains in place, a phased reduction of perennial waterholes represents the most scientifically defensible first intervention.
Other tools, including removing fences to re-establish elephant migratory routes, immunocontraception, translocation and targeted culling, may have a role in specific circumstances.
However, both Selier and Ferreira argue that management should first focus on addressing the underlying drivers of elephant concentration and habitat impacts. Neither supports a return to the systematic culling practised in Kruger before 1994, although both acknowledge that targeted culling could be considered as a measure of last resort within an approved management framework and after non-lethal alternatives have been exhausted.
Elephant culling in Kruger National Park took place before 1994
The national framework: what South Africa’s law and policy require
South African law permits culling only under an approved management plan, supported by evidence that other population management options have been appropriately considered, evaluated and rejected.
Additionally, harassing elephants is unambiguously illegal under both Nemba and ancillary legislation. Specifically, it is illegal to disturb, stress, or interfere with elephants. They must be treated humanely and must not be subjected to unnecessary stress at any time, including during management activities.
Additionally, under the Animal Protection Act 71 of 1962 (which runs alongside Nemba), any person who ill-treats, overloads, frightens, tortures, or causes unnecessary suffering to any animal commits an offence.
The normalisation of killing elephants
The APNR is not alone in considering elephant culling.
Don Pinnock reports in Daily Maverick that bureaucratic delays, the suspicious influence of the hunting lobby, and poor management of the Madikwe Game Reserve and KwaZulu-Natal provincial reserves have led to a likely scenario of elephant culling to paper over the cracks in these small fenced reserves.
Conclusion: the hardest conservation is the most honest
The APNR’s elephant dilemma is not, in the final analysis, a simple question of too many elephants.
It is a question of what happens when you attract a large, intelligent, socially complex, ecologically powerful megaherbivore into a human-controlled system and then discover, decades later, that the landscape is changing in ways you did not intend.
Put another way, actively attracting elephants to man-made waterholes for gin-and-tonic moments and then shooting them is, in my view, a bridge too far, as a short-term response to a problem shaped by decades of prior management decisions and which nature is already addressing.
Whether that relationship that nature is trying to re-establish can be restored, and in what form, is a question that the APNR’s elephant management plan must now answer. Technocratic management approaches can underplay the ethical gravity of deliberately killing highly intelligent social animals.
Science offers the tools. The choice of how to use them remains, as it always has, a human responsibility.
* Editor’s note: This paragraph was updated after publication following the release of an article by Howard Hendricks and Sam Ferreira providing a breakdown of Kruger National Park’s elephant mortalities over the preceding six years.
Further reading
The Kruger debate: A new study explores how stakeholder opinions differ on managing elephants, from culling to contraception, in APNR, Kruger. Read more on the Kruger debate here
KAZA Transfrontier Conservation Area (2023). KAZA Elephant Survey 2022: Fact Sheet and Joint Communiqué. Livingstone, Zambia.
Louw, A.S., MacFadyen, S., Ferreira, S. & Hui, C., 2021, ‘Elephant population responses to increased density in Kruger National Park’, Koedoe 63(1), a1660. https://doi.org/10.4102/koedoe.v63i1.1660
Mauguière, J. (2022). Artificial water provisioning and herbivore impacts in the Greater Kruger landscape. Unpublished research thesis.
Selier, J., Ferreira, S., Mafumu, H., Slotow, R., Muingi, A., et al. (2025). A national elephant heritage strategy for South Africa. African Journal of Wildlife Research, 55(sp2). https://doi.org/10.3957/056.055.0316
Selier, S.A.J., Henley, M., Pretorius, Y. & Garaï, M. (2016). A conservation assessment of Loxodonta africana. In The Red List of Mammals of South Africa, Swaziland and Lesotho. SANBI and EWT.
Smith, E., Brown, L.R. & Barrett, A.S. (2024). Insights into artificial waterhole utilisation patterns by elephants and rhinos: Lessons from a South African Nature Reserve. PLOS ONE, 19(10): e0312158. https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0312158
Wessels KJ, Peel MJS, Smit IPJ, Armston JD, Li X, Lal P & Urbazaev M. 2026. Assessing the impacts of changing elephant densities on woody vegetation structure in private reserves within the Greater Kruger National Park, South Africa. Biological Conservation 317:111815. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.biocon.2026.111815
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
A new word for me:
So, today I learned the term for what is an ongoing daily delight: nature tapping me on the shoulder to remind me about life’s mysteries; often unexplained, always totally awesome.
“Glorians” are ordinary, often overlooked presences in nature and everyday life that reveal our interconnectedness with the world, as popularised by environmental activist and writer Terry Tempest Williams. They could be the scent of blossoms drifting in the air or elephants pushing over a tree to reach new leaves in the crown.
This morning, while mulling over business challenges in the safari industry caused by global uncertainties, and fuelled by a mug of pressed coffee, my thoughts were interrupted.
Recently, every morning just after sunrise, a squadron of Cape glossy and Burchell’s starlings streak overhead like Exocet missiles, their wingbeats reverberating in the air, destination unknown. Today, though, they interrupted their flight path to descend on a flowering mountain aloe in our garden; the yellow-orange flowers a beacon in the drab winter landscape. It’s a chilly morning, and the starlings have an energy budget to top up after a long night. About 50 birds harvested the nectar, waiting in nearby trees to take their turn, clambering on the head of flowers and bickering loudly. Then, all of a sudden, they were gone.
Speaking of amazing natural events, we still have a few bednights left to experience the Okavango Delta floods during the prime safari season this year (or next). Check out this amazing itinerary and contact my team to craft your own safari. Or, why not treat your friends and family members to this safari and earn up to $1,000?
How many large mammals are still waiting to be discovered? More than you might think. Scientists have just described only the fifth new African monkey species discovered in the past 75 years: a shy, canopy-dwelling colobus from the forests of the DRC with striking pink-orange lips. Known locally as the Likweli, it had eluded science despite living within reach of nearby villages. In interviews across 52 communities, people in only eight had ever seen it. Living high in the canopy, this elusive monkey is more often heard than seen, announcing its presence with a deep, resonant roar. Like all colobus monkeys, it lacks thumbs, but this is no handicap. Instead, the absence of thumbs allows these agile primates to move more efficiently through the treetops without their hands catching on branches. Researchers also hope to uncover the purpose of its remarkable pink-orange lips and what other secrets this mysterious primate still holds.
This week, we reveal where you’re most likely to tick off all of the Big 5 on a single safari, with our expert guide to Africa’s top Big 5 destinations. We also journey to Kenya’s spectacular Samburu, where rare wildlife, rich culture and the iconic Samburu Special Five make this one of East Africa’s most rewarding safari destinations.
Our stories this week
DISCOVER SAMBURU
Samburu – an arid land steeped in rich tradition, where people, livestock, and wildlife thrive side by side, sharing precious resources.
BIG 5 – ONE SAFARI
Can you really see all the Big 5 on one safari? We’ve ranked the best places to see all five iconic species in a single trip.
Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas
Family safari to Maasai Mara, Amboseli & Samburu – 9 days Three iconic parks, unforgettable wildlife and family fun for all. This safari combines Kenya’s three most iconic wildlife destinations, from the Great Migration and Big Five of the Maasai Mara to Amboseli’s giant tuskers and Samburu’s unique Special Five. Packed with family-friendly activities, exceptional wildlife and time to simply relax together, it’s an adventure everyone will remember.
MalaMala & Madikwe Big 5 safari – 9 days
An exclusive journey in search of the Big Five and much more. Track the Big Five across two of Africa’s finest wildlife destinations, MalaMala and Madikwe, where contrasting landscapes deliver vastly different safari experiences. Expect exceptional game viewing, from near-guaranteed leopards to brown hyenas and gemsbok, while staying at two exclusive lodges renowned for their privacy, heritage and outstanding guiding.
Every Africa Geographic safari helps protect the people who protect Africa’s wildlife.
Thanks to travellers who book with us, we’ve donated to the Southern African Conservation Trust’s Shepherd’s Shield programme. A portion of every safari booking funds carefully selected conservation initiatives that protect wildlife, support frontline conservation teams and deliver practical solutions where they’re needed most.
Our donation helps provide specialist accident and medical insurance for Animal Protection Unit rangers and elephant shepherds working on the frontline. These teams respond to human-wildlife conflict, remove snares and protect both wildlife and neighbouring communities.
Book an Africa Geographic safari and help us continue funding conservation that counts. You can also support the Shepherd’s Shield programme directly here and help protect the people who protect Africa’s wildlife.
We’ve been nominated as Africa’s Leading Tour Operator AND as Africa’s Leading Luxury Safari Company in the 2026 World Travel Awards, and we’d love your support.
By voting for Africa Geographic, you’re backing a more conscious and meaningful way to travel: one that celebrates Africa’s extraordinary biodiversity, connects travellers with authentic experiences, and contributes to conservation on the ground. Voting closes today, 17 July, at midnight!
How to vote:
1. Register here.
2. Complete the short sign-up form and check your inbox to activate your account.
3. Once registered, head to the Africa voting page here.
4. Scroll down to the following categories, click on them, and vote for Africa Geographic:
Africa’s Leading Tour Operator 2026
Africa’s Leading Luxury Safari Company 2026
Every vote genuinely helps, and we’re incredibly grateful for your support!
WATCH
Journey into the rainforests of Congo-Brazzaville’s Odzala-Kokoua National Park. Here, forest walks, river safaris and the remarkable Imbalanga Baï offer unforgettable encounters with western lowland gorillas, forest elephants, bongos and other elusive rainforest wildlife. This short film showcases one of Africa’s greatest wildernesses and our sister company, Ukuri. Click here to watch. (06:50)
Beyond the Great Migration and Kenya’s famous southern savannas lies Samburu, a rugged northern wilderness where rare wildlife, community conservation and ancient traditions come together. Home to the iconic Samburu Special Five, this extraordinary region rewards travellers seeking a quieter, more authentic safari experience.
Samburu County is an arid land steeped in culture and traditions, where people, livestock, and wildlife walk side by side, sharing precious resources. Like the relationship between the Samburu and elephants, a visit to the county is as much about the colourful, resilient people as the weird and wonderful wildlife and fascinating scenery.
A Samburu legend tells of a young girl leaving home for the first time with her new husband. Though her father commanded her not to look back, the girl’s heart was aching with sadness, and she turned to glance at her family manyatta (home). Angered by her defiance, the god N’gai punished her. That night she began to swell before eventually bursting out of the hut as the first elephant and running off into the night. Thus, the Samburu people say that elephants are related to them by blood. Elephants are revered, and, to this day, every time a Samburu elder encounters an elephant skull, they will place green grass and saliva on it (representing water and good growth) as a sign of respect.
Samburu is one of Kenya’s finest destinations for leopard sightings, particularly along the Ewaso Ng’iro River
Samburu County
Samburu County in north-central Kenya stretches from Laikipia and Isilio counties in the south all the way to the southern shores of Lake Turkana in the north. It marks the dramatic transition from the lush savannas of south Kenya and the vast deserts that extend through the Horn of Africa. Situated at a much lower altitude than the neighbouring Laikipia Plateau, the weather is usually hot, and rainfall levels low. The resultant scenery is beautiful in a way unique to arid areas – rugged and austere, overlooked by magnificent outcrops and rolling hills.
The exception to this can be found on the banks of the Ewaso Ng’iro River, situated on Samburu’s southern boundary, and surrounded by the Samburu National Reserve. The Ewaso Ng’iro River forms the lifeblood of Samburu National Reserve. Rising on the slopes of Mount Kenya and fed by rainfall and highland catchments, it winds east through northern Kenya before eventually disappearing into the Lorian Swamp. In this otherwise arid landscape, the river sustains lush riverine forests, towering doum palms and abundant wildlife. Even when surface flows diminish during prolonged dry spells, underground water continues to nourish the vegetation, creating one of northern Kenya’s richest wildlife corridors.
The silhouette of doum palms lining the river, as dawn breaks over Samburu
Samburu’s Wild Spaces
Samburu National Reserve is northern Kenya’s flagship safari destination and forms part of the greater Ewaso ecosystem. Though covering just 165 km² (16,500 hectares), it supports remarkable biodiversity and is contiguous with Buffalo Springs National Reserve in neighbouring Isiolo County, while Shaba National Reserve lies immediately to the east. Together, these three protected areas safeguard one of Kenya’s most distinctive wildlife landscapes.
Beyond the national reserves, a network of community conservancies, including Kalama, Westgate, Namunyak and Sera, has transformed conservation across northern Kenya. These conservancies protect vital wildlife habitat while supporting local Samburu communities through responsible tourism. Many visitors now combine the national reserve with one or more conservancies, enjoying lower visitor densities and exclusive activities such as guided walks, night drives, camel safaris and authentic cultural experiences that are not generally permitted within the national reserve.
An elephant along the Ewaso Ng’iro River, the permanent water source that supports life across Samburu’s dry landscape
Together, these conservancies protect hundreds of thousands of hectares of wilderness across northern Kenya, ranging from riverine forests and acacia savannas to rugged mountain landscapes and arid rangelands. Each offers a slightly different safari experience, but all share the same commitment to conserving wildlife while creating sustainable livelihoods for local communities. This connected network allows elephants, lions, wild dogs and other wide-ranging species to move freely across the landscape, making Samburu one of Kenya’s most important conservation strongholds.
Visitors often combine the more “traditional” Laikipia safari experience with Samburu’s astonishing scenery and wildlife oddities (see below). Like Laikipia, Samburu’s conservancy model demonstrates how conservation and community livelihoods can work hand in hand. With around 65% of Kenya’s wildlife occurring outside formal national parks and reserves, these community-managed landscapes have become essential to the country’s long-term conservation success.
Under the direction of the Northern Rangelands Trust, many of the above conservancies offer their own intimate safari experiences and, where contiguous, are managed as one ecological entity. The conservancies have faced tremendous challenges, yet the majority are shining examples of how community involvement can transform conservation through inclusivity and tourism.
Samburu’s rugged hills, volcanic outcrops and sweeping savannas create one of Kenya’s most distinctive safari landscapes
The Samburu Special 5
Catchy phrases like “the Big 5”, “the Secret 7”, and “the Ugly 5” in reference to certain wildlife species are tremendously effective marketing tools that sell everything from t-shirts and curios to safaris. In the case of Samburu, the “Samburu Special 5” is a fitting moniker for an exclusive wildlife checklist in this arid region of Africa. Included in the Special 5 are the gerenuk, the reticulated giraffe, the Grevy’s zebra, the Somali ostrich and the common beisa oryx.
The remarkable gerenuk stands upright on its hind legs to browse leaves beyond the reach of most antelope
Nothing can really prepare a person for their first sight of a gerenuk in the wild. Looking for all the world like a stretched-out impala, these peculiar antelope are one of Africa’s genuine oddities – designed to stand on their hindlimbs and use bizarrely elongated necks to nibble on hard-to-reach leaves. They are in equal parts graceful and hilarious.
Grevy’s zebras thrive in Samburu’s open grasslands, where dramatic mountain backdrops complete the sceneReticulated giraffes are among Samburu’s signature species, instantly recognisable by their sharply defined geometric coat patterns
The endangered Grevy’s zebra is the largest of the three zebra species and quite possibly the most attractive. They can be easily distinguished from their plains zebra cousins by their large, round ears, neat and close-set stripes, white bellies, and fawn-coloured muzzles. The majority of the remaining wild Grevy’s zebras are found in northern Kenya, with small, isolated populations in Ethiopia. Equally geometrically easy on the eye are the reticulated giraffe, the rarest of the giraffe species after the Northern giraffe. The reticulated giraffe is one of Africa’s most distinctive giraffe species, instantly recognisable by its sharply defined chestnut patches separated by bright white lines.
The elegant beisa oryx is superbly adapted to Samburu’s arid landscapes and forms part of the famous Samburu Special Five
The Somali ostrich was only recently identified as a separate species, rather than a subspecies of the common ostrich found throughout most of Africa. They are native to the Horn of Africa and are also sometimes referred to as the blue-necked ostrich – during courtship, the necks and legs of the males turn blue instead of flushing pink! And finally, the common beisa oryx is one of two subspecies of the East African oryx found in Kenya.
…and their equally special compatriots
While Samburu is not necessarily at the top of the list for many first-time safari-goers, it offers an astonishing abundance of wildlife, including iconic species. Thanks to concerted conservation efforts, elephants abound, and the population increases significantly during the two rainy seasons when they migrate north from Laikipia. Samburu is home to the headquarters of Save the Elephants, founded by Iain Douglas-Hamilton, making the elephants here among the most extensively studied in the world. Buffalo are common in the wetter areas and riverbanks. Apart from the aforementioned gerenuk and oryx, other dry-country antelope include the lesser kudu and the adorable (and ubiquitous) Kirk’s and Günther’s dik-diks.
Healthy elephant populations roam freely between Samburu National Reserve and neighbouring community conservancies
Samburu is also a predator haven. It is one of Kenya’s most reliable destinations for leopard sightings, particularly along the Ewaso Ng’iro River, while resident lion prides, cheetahs and spotted hyenas ensure rewarding predator viewing throughout much of the year. African painted wolves (wild dogs) and even the rare and elusive striped hyena can be seen in the reserve. There is always an element of surprise in wildlife viewing in Samburu, with the added advantage that it is far less crowded than the more popular southern Kenyan safari areas.
Open plains and scattered scrub provide ideal habitat for cheetahs raising cubs in northern Kenya
Though rhinos are almost entirely extinct in Samburu, visitors to the Sera Community Conservancy can spend time tracking newly introduced black rhinos on foot in a massive 540 km2 (54,000 hectares) sanctuary. Given the notoriously cheeky nature of these remarkable animals, this is guaranteed to be a thrilling experience within the safe parameters laid out by expert Samburu guides.
As it occupies such a unique position between desert and savanna, it is only to be expected that the birding on offer in Samburu would be sublime. There are several coveted endemic and arid specialists to be found across its heterogeneous landscapes. Some bird species to watch for include the charismatic vulturine guineafowl, Somali bee-eater, golden pipit, white-headed mousebird, D’Arnaud’s barbet, and rosy-patched bush-shrike. Have a look at our CEO Simon Espley’s account of his birding adventures in Samburu.
The iridescent vulturine guineafowl is one of northern Kenya’s most striking birds and a favourite among birdwatchers
Samburu’s colourful people
From the reserves to conservancies and from budget accommodation to the ultra-luxurious lodges of Samburu, everything is almost exclusively operated, managed and staffed by local Samburu people. The Samburu people refer to themselves as the Lokop/Loikop people and were traditionally semi-nomadic pastoralists, following the rain to provide food for their livestock. Their nomadic lifestyle has been largely phased out, but cows, sheep, goats, donkeys, and camels (a more recent addition) are of tremendous cultural importance. The Samburu language is a dialect of Maa, the language of the Maasai people, with whom the Samburu share many lifestyle similarities.
The Samburu people’s rich traditions, colourful attire and deep connection to the land remain central to every visit
The Samburu people are known in particular for their beautiful and intricate beadwork (which is always on sale for entranced tourists) and vivid traditional outfits. However, their wisdom and deep connection to their homeland add to the depth and wonder of the Samburu experience. Expert Samburu guides will freely share their knowledge and traditions with fascinated tourists, and visitors to the Namunyak Conservancy can visit the local “Singing Wells”. Here, the warriors gather in the dry riverbeds to dig wells to satiate their livestock, singing haunting traditional melodies as they work.
Where to stay
Samburu combines dramatic wilderness with some of Kenya’s finest safari accommodation. Visitors can choose from simple riverside camps, comfortable tented camps and boutique safari lodges within Samburu National Reserve, while the surrounding conservancies offer an even greater sense of exclusivity. Many luxury lodges overlook the Ewaso Ng’iro River or are tucked beneath doum palms and acacia woodland, blending seamlessly into the landscape.
Sasaab overlooks the Ewaso Ng’iro River
The conservancies are particularly renowned for their intimate, low-density safari experiences, with fewer vehicles, exceptional guiding and opportunities to explore beyond traditional game drives. Guided walks, camel safaris, night drives, fly camping and meaningful cultural interactions with Samburu communities create a more immersive safari than is possible in many national parks.
Whether travelling as a couple, family or photographer, Samburu offers accommodation ranging from comfortable safari camps to ultra-luxury lodges with private plunge pools, spa facilities, gourmet dining and personalised guiding.
Safaris in Samburu
Samburu is one of Kenya’s most rewarding year-round safari destinations. Unlike the Maasai Mara, wildlife viewing here is not centred around a seasonal migration but around the permanent lifeline of the Ewaso Ng’iro River, which attracts animals throughout the year. Visitors come to see the Samburu Special Five, and the excellent elephant populations, and of course, the predators.
The Ewaso Ng’iro River is Samburu’s lifeline, sustaining wildlife and lush riverine forest throughout the year
The best wildlife viewing generally falls during the dry seasons from June to October and January to March, when vegetation is sparse and animals concentrate around remaining water sources. These months also offer cooler temperatures, clearer skies and excellent photographic conditions.
The green seasons, typically April to May and November to December, transform the landscape with fresh vegetation and dramatic skies. Birdlife is at its peak as migratory species arrive, while photographers often favour these quieter months for softer light, lush scenery and fewer safari vehicles.
Many travellers combine Samburu with Laikipia, Ol Pejeta Conservancy or the Maasai Mara to experience Kenya’s remarkable diversity of landscapes and wildlife.
Northern Kenya supports most of the world’s remaining Grevy’s zebras, making Samburu one of the best places to see this endangered species
Further reading
Discover where to stay, when to visit, the wildlife to expect and why Samburu is one of Kenya’s most rewarding safari destinations. Check out our Samburu National Reserve guide
Compare Kenya’s famous Maasai Mara with Samburu and explore one of Africa’s greatest wildlife destinations, renowned for the Great Migration and exceptional predator sightings. Check out our Maasai Mara safari guide
Learn why Laikipia’s private conservancies, remarkable wildlife diversity and exclusive safari experiences pair perfectly with a visit to Samburu. See our Laikipia safari guide
Gain a deeper appreciation of Samburu culture by learning about Maa, the language shared by the Maasai and Samburu peoples, and the traditions it helps preserve.
Experience the colour, traditions and enduring spirit of the Samburu people through this striking gallery celebrating one of Kenya’s most fascinating cultures.
Read about Africa Geographic CEO Simon Espley’s three-day birding safari through Samburu as he searches for some of northern Kenya’s most spectacular bird species.
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
Misinformation about elephant tuskers
Super tuskers have been in the news a lot recently. Last week we reported on the trophy hunting of a 110-pounder in Botswana, and this week saw the natural death of One Ton (see our video at the end of this mail), the cherished giant bull that roamed Kenya’s Chyulu Hills.
A point of clarification: a tusker (or super tusker) is generally defined as an elephant with at least one tusk weighing 100 pounds (45.4kg) or more. In East Africa, where elephants tend to have smaller bodies and often carry longer, more slender tusks than their southern African counterparts, the ivory can appear disproportionately large and may even touch the ground.
One respected Kruger National Park section ranger, in response to my Facebook post about the Botswana bull, suggested that the bull was “only 17lbs (8kg) more than the average for a 50-year-old Kruger elephant” and therefore hardly worth reporting, citing research by Whyte and Hall-Martin. However, the study he quotes from the 1900s does not report an average tusk weight for 50-year-old Kruger bulls. It is a statistical growth model based on the heaviest tusks of 709 culled male elephants, and the authors themselves note considerable variation between elephants. Presenting 93 pounds as the average tusk weight of 50-year-old Kruger elephants lends the study a level of precision and certainty that the authors themselves do not claim. This distinction isn’t just academic. By making 93lbs sound like a normal, expected tusk weight, the comparison makes a genuinely rare individual sound unremarkable. That framing quietly normalises the loss of exceptional genetics to trophy hunting.
It is important that discussions about elephant conservation are grounded in what the science actually says, rather than in simplified interpretations of complex research.
My thanks to everyone who emailed me about the trophy-hunted Botswana tusker. Several readers asked whether they should boycott Botswana and other countries that still permit trophy hunting. My answer, which I explain in a video recorded during my bush walk over the weekend, is that we should do the opposite. By supporting responsible photographic tourism in these countries, we strengthen the economic alternative to trophy hunting and help shift the balance towards a future in which living elephants are worth more than dead ones. We are standing by for your safari enquiry.
Conservation success stories rarely emerge from conflict zones. Yet a new study by researchers from Panthera and partners has found encouraging signs for one of Africa’s rarest big cats. The good news is that camera-trap surveys in Benin’s Pendjari National Park (which is managed by African Parks) have revealed that the density of critically endangered West African leopards increased between 2017 and 2023, despite the region facing intense pressure from armed groups, habitat loss and poaching. Fewer than 354 of these leopards are thought to remain across West Africa, making the increase significant. For one of Africa’s rarest leopards, even a small recovery is worth celebrating.
This week, we compare Africa’s most romantic honeymoon safari destinations, from the Serengeti and Okavango Delta to the beaches of the Indian Ocean. We also explore Kenya’s remarkable Laikipia Plateau, where pioneering conservancies, black leopards and exceptional wildlife have made it one of Africa’s finest safari destinations.
Our stories this week
LAIKIPIA PLATEAU
Discover Kenya’s Laikipia Plateau – luxury safaris, rare wildlife, black leopards and pioneering conservancies. This is your complete guide to Laikipia
TOP HONEYMOON SPOTS
Planning your honeymoon? Compare Africa’s best safari destinations and find the perfect romantic adventure, from the Serengeti to the Okavango, Cape Town, and beyond
Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas
Secret season – Maasai Mara and Laikipia – 9 days Follow in the footsteps of the big cats made famous by the BBC’s Big Cat Diaries and Disney’s African Cats. Explore the northern reaches of the Maasai Mara in search of resident lions, cheetahs, leopards, elephants and abundant plains game, before visiting Ol Pejeta Conservancy to see black rhinos, the world’s last northern white rhinos and inspiring conservation in action beneath Mount Kenya. Expect exceptional wildlife, ancient acacias and unforgettable sunsets.
South Luangwa & Lower Zambezi explorer – 10 days
A leopard hotspot, the birthplace of walking safaris and the mighty Zambezi River: Journey from the wildlife-rich floodplains of South Luangwa to the remote islands of the Lower Zambezi on an authentic safari showcasing the best of wild Zambia. Explore by game drive, boat and guided walks, with exceptional wildlife, legendary leopard sightings and immersive experiences in two iconic river landscapes.
We’ve been nominated as Africa’s Leading Tour Operator AND as Africa’s Leading Luxury Safari Company in the 2026 World Travel Awards, and we’d love your support.
By voting for Africa Geographic, you’re backing a more conscious and meaningful way to travel: one that celebrates Africa’s extraordinary biodiversity, connects travellers with authentic experiences, and contributes to conservation on the ground.
How to vote:
1. Register here.
2. Complete the short sign-up form and check your inbox to activate your account.
3. Once registered, head to the Africa voting page here.
4. Scroll down to the following categories, click on them, and vote for Africa Geographic:
Africa’s Leading Tour Operator 2026
Africa’s Leading Luxury Safari Company 2026
Every vote genuinely helps, and we’re incredibly grateful for your support!
Our safari guests say…
AG safari guests, mother-daughter duo Susan and Kellie from the USA, recently returned from an unforgettable Kenyan safari.
Their safari combined elephant-filled Amboseli beneath the snow-capped peak of Mount Kilimanjaro with the legendary Maasai Mara, before ending with an iconic stay at Giraffe Manor and visits to the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust. Their safari blended exceptional wildlife viewing, warm hospitality and meaningful conservation experiences – and this is what they had to say afterwards:
“Africa Geographic is the best! Ramona and Tracie were wonderful and provided a much-appreciated experience, one we’ll never forget. I can highly recommend Africa Geographic.”
Take a minute to watch this moving tribute to One Ton – a gentle giant whose immense, ground-sweeping tusks and calm presence made him one of Africa’s most iconic elephants. This short video celebrates his remarkable legacy and the importance of protecting the few super tuskers that remain. Then read our story exploring how many of these extraordinary giants are left in Africa and why their conservation is so important. (0:51) Watch here
“It was not just the beauty and wildness of the landscape. It was not just the smells, intense of dust and elephant, of jasmine and moonflower, nor the incredible concert of birds singing with liquid voices in the golden afternoons. It was not just the profile of the hills and the short purple sunsets, nor the vivid colours of the hibiscus and of the sky and of the yellow grass, nor the emotions of a sudden rustle of leaves of a scared francolin while I was walking alone in the bush, nor the surprise of the leopard, still as a statue in the full moon.”
As Kuki Gallman so vividly describes in her iconic novel, I Dreamed of Africa, Laikipi is a land of staggering natural beauty and biodiversity, enriched by complex cultural strands of human history and influence. The plateau is a mosaic of wildlife conservancies, ranchlands, rangelands and commercial farms that bridge the gap between East Africa’s savannas to the south and the arid lands of the Horn of Africa to the north. Here, endangered species often roam alongside Boran cattle and camels across a conservation landscape unlike any other in Africa.
A watchful lion surveys giraffes across Laikipia’s dramatic mosaic of kopjes and open savanna
The basics
Laikipia (‘treeless plain’ in Maa) is one of Kenya’s 47 counties, covering an area of 9,500km2 (950,000 hectares) and part of the much broader Ewaso ecosystem. The Ewaso Ng’iro River flows north-east through the county, fed by tributaries flowing off Mount Kenya’s glaciers. For the most part, the entire region is open to wildlife and fences are limited to the wetter southern areas where farming is more prevalent, and human-wildlife conflict is a common occurence.
The landscape is dominated by ancient gneisses, which form rocky outcrops and hills, while the western lava sheets bear testament to the tumultuous history of the Great Rift Valley. The Aberdare Mountains run along Laikipia’s southwestern boundary, while Mount Kenya’s shadow looms large to the southeast. Most of the county lies at altitudes over 1,500m, so, despite lying across the Equator, the climate is relatively cool and temperate, becoming increasingly dry towards the central and northern regions.
Laikipia is wild, magical, whimsical. Ancient valleys and dramatic escarpments shape Laikipia’s spectacular highland landscapes.
A different kind of wild space
Apart from Mukogodo and Rumuruti Forest Reserves, none of Laikipia’s various wildlife areas has formal protected status (that is, none of them is a game reserve or national park). Instead, the guardianship of the wilderness is based on the Kenyan conservancy model. Here, the lines between wild spaces and humanity are blurred. Many of the properties involved in wildlife conservation and tourism combine these efforts with raising livestock. Several group ranches are operated by community-owned companies, many of which have devoted their efforts to conserving vast swathes of land.
Scattered throughout Laikipia are privately owned and community-managed conservancies supported by a thriving conservation and tourism industry. Today, the Laikipia Conservancies Association brings together 32 member conservancies and ecolodges, collectively protecting more than 4,100 km² (over 414,000 hectares) of connected wildlife habitat. Together, these conservancies form one of Africa’s largest and most successful privately managed conservation landscapes. Some of the major conservancies include:
Ol Pejeta Conservancy
360km2 (36,000 hectares)
Ol Ari Nyiro (also known as Laikipia Nature Conservancy)
365km2 (36,500 hectares)
Naibunga (a group ranch composed of 9 ranches)
477km2 (47,700 hectares)
Loisaba Conservancy
230km2 (23,000 hectares)
Borana Conservancy (contiguous with Lewa Conservancy)
130km2 (13,000 hectares)
Il Ngwesi (a group ranch)
93km2 (9,300 hectares)
Lekuruki Conservancy
92km2 (9,200 hectares)
Ol Jogi Conservancy
240km2 (24,000 hectares)
Sosian Conservancy
97km2 (9,700 hectares)
Ol-Lentille Conservancy
162km2 (16,200 hectares)
The above list of operational conservancies is complemented by several unfenced private ranches, many of which offer their own intimate safari experience. Together, conservancies, community organisations, landowners and conservation partners manage this vast ecosystem as one of Africa’s most successful conservation landscapes. It is also open to the renowned Lewa Wildlife Conservancy to the east and attached to the Mount Kenya Forest and National Park to the southeast.
Laikipia’s precious wildlife treasures
The plateau’s gradual transition from intensive livestock farming to wildlife haven is a testament to the success of a progressive and inclusive conservation approach. Laikipia’s heterogeneous landscapes now offer some of the most magnificent wildlife viewing in Kenya, from the standard Big 5 experience to more unusual and elusive creatures.
Laikipia is home to Kenya’s second-largest elephant population
The county is home to the second-largest elephant population in Kenya, and many of these herds now migrate north to Samburu during the two rainy seasons. Naturally, big cat sightings are regular and always exciting, but equally enthralling are the opportunities to spot the sloping back of a striped hyena, the absurdly elongated neck of the peculiar gerenuk and the spear-tipped horns of the Beisa oryx.
The elegant gerenuk has an absurdly long neck, and when feeding, stands on its hind legs to browse leaves beyond the reach of most antelopeThe striped hyena is also one of the rare animals to spot in Laikipia
Laikipia has also become one of the world’s best destinations to see melanistic (“black”) leopards. These extraordinary cats are not a separate species but ordinary African leopards carrying a rare recessive genetic mutation that produces an overabundance of dark pigment. Though they appear entirely black, their characteristic rosette pattern remains visible in bright sunlight. For decades, black leopards in Africa were considered little more than legend, with only unconfirmed reports and a handful of historical records.
One of Laikipia’s elusive black leopards
That changed in 2018, when camera traps in Laikipia produced the first scientifically documented photographs of a wild African black leopard in more than a century. Since then, the region has become synonymous with these elusive cats, with several individually recognised animals inhabiting a handful of conservancies. The most famous is Giza Mrembo (“Beautiful Darkness” in Swahili), a female whose life has been closely followed by guides and photographers as she matured from a cub into a successful hunter. Despite her conspicuous dark coat in Laikipia’s relatively open woodland, she has adapted remarkably well, relying on stealth, speed and intimate knowledge of the terrain to hunt prey such as dik-dik. While sightings can never be guaranteed, Laikipia offers the best opportunity anywhere in Africa to encounter a wild black leopard, making it a bucket-list destination for wildlife enthusiasts and photographers alike.
A black leopard hunts in Laikipia
Part of Laikipia’s real magic lies in its inordinate concentration of endangered species, particularly rhinos. Perhaps most famously, the Ol Pejeta Conservancy is home to the last two northern white rhinos in the world, vigilantly guarded day and night. Najin and her daughter Fatu were given to the Ol Pejeta Conservancy by the Dvůr Králové Zoo in Czechoslovakia in 2009. Najin’s father – Sudan – was the last surviving male northern white rhino, but he died in 2018. Scientists continue to advance an ambitious assisted reproduction programme using stored northern white rhino genetic material and southern white rhino surrogate mothers. While significant progress has been made, Najin and Fatu remain the last two northern white rhinos on Earth.
Endangered reticulated giraffes – their striking coats are unique to northern Kenya
White rhinos aside, Laikipia is also home to nearly half of Kenya’s black rhinos. Many of the conservancies and ranches have dedicated rhino sanctuaries that have contributed immensely to rhino conservation in East Africa. The county is an important stronghold for the endangered Grévy’s zebra, reticulated giraffe (also known as the Somali giraffe), and Jackson’s hartebeest (regarded as a rare hybrid between the Lelwel and Coke’s hartebeest). African painted wolves (wild dogs) course across the vast woodlands and open plains, their propensity for covering large distances supported by the size of the ecosystem available to them. The Sweetwaters Chimpanzee Sanctuary in Ol Pejeta is also the only place in Kenya where visitors can see chimpanzees, as they do not occur naturally.
Laikipia is a global stronghold for the endangered Grévy’s zebra, the world’s largest wild zebra speciesWhite rhinos have made a remarkable comeback in Laikipia, where carefully protected populations now thrive within secure conservancies
Variety and adventure – the Laikipia safari experience
Apart from its remarkable wildlife, the Laikipia experience can be defined by two quintessential principles: exclusivity and freedom. The private conservancies and ranches guarantee that visitors can immerse themselves in the wilderness, free from the almost crushing pressure of tourist numbers in the more renowned national parks and game reserves.
This high-quality, low-density approach to tourism has opened up unique experiences for visitors, such as accompanying ecological teams in the field to monitor endangered species, track lions or walk with baboon troops. Variety is the order of the day, and tailored adventures are the norm in Laikipia.
A lion rests against a backdrop of ancient granite outcrops
Because most conservancies are privately managed, guides enjoy greater flexibility than in Kenya’s national parks. Guests can venture off-road when appropriate, enjoy guided bush walks, horse riding, camel safaris, mountain biking and night drives, experiences rarely permitted elsewhere in Kenya. Combined with low visitor numbers and remarkable wildlife diversity, Laikipia delivers one of East Africa’s most exclusive and immersive safari experiences.
A guided bush walk in Laikipia
Laikipia offers some of Kenya’s finest safari accommodation, ranging from stylish owner-operated bush camps to ultra-luxury lodges overlooking vast private conservancies. Many properties host only a handful of guests, creating an intimate safari experience with exceptional guiding and personalised service. Several lodges are deeply involved in conservation, allowing guests to meet researchers, trackers and anti-poaching teams while learning about the challenges of protecting wildlife beyond national parks.
Free from the rules and restrictions of national parks, the lodges offer expertly guided walks, night drives and horse safaris. Intrepid visitors can opt to explore the landscape on a mountain bike or quad bike, rolling along paths inaccessible to the average vehicle and discovering hidden nooks and crannies. Those that prefer a more sedate pace can hop on the back of a camel and enjoy the scenery from a novel vantage point, accompanied by the gentle tinkle of camel train bells.
Exploring the landscape on camelback
As a general rule, Laikipia does not stint on comfortable accommodation, though there are options available to suit tighter budgets. There are a number of either community-owned or community-operated lodges for conscience-driven travellers. However, it is important to note that access to the vast majority of the conservancies and ranches is restricted to guests, and only Ol Pejeta offers access to day visitors.
Like the Maasai Mara, there are two rainy seasons in Laikipia: the ‘short’ rains in October/November and the ‘long’ rains lasting from March until June. Though rainfall levels are not as high as they are in the Mara, high rainfall may affect the activities and the wildlife viewing.
Laikipia’s luxury tented camps offer refined comfort, outstanding guiding and exclusive access to private conservanciesGathering around the fire at Ol Pejeta, one of Laikipia’s many lodges
Laikipia combines particularly well with the Maasai Mara for a safari. While the Mara offers unrivalled concentrations of plains game and predators, Laikipia provides a quieter, more exclusive safari centred around conservation, rare species and varied safari activities. Together, the two destinations create one of Kenya’s finest safari combinations.
A triumph of conservation
Though Laikipia offers various habitats and experiences for the discerning visitor, these are all underscored by a common theme – authenticity. In Laikipia, the fortunes of people and wildlife are inextricably linked. This is not to say that this process has been without its own challenges, and indeed, Laikipia has seen its fair share of conflict and heartache. However, the inclusive approach that values livelihoods and biodiversity has successfully used tourism to galvanise the creation of one of the largest wilderness areas in Kenya.
African wild dogs roam widely across Laikipia’s interconnected conservancies, hunting with remarkable teamwork
The concept of individually- or community-owned conservancies should be considered a Kenyan conservation success story. Tourists that visit these conservancies and ranches play an enormous role in ensuring the future of these protected wilderness areas and supporting a continuous revenue stream for the local communities. With over 65% of Kenyan wildlife existing outside of government-protected wilderness areas, it is easy to see why conservancies will be critical to conservation efforts in the future. The sprawling plateau of Laikipia, home to some of the most endangered species in Africa and steeped in complex history, is the perfect example of this process in action.
Warriors perform their traditional adumu jumping dance, celebrating strength, agility and cultural heritage passed down through generations
Laikipia is unlike anywhere else in Africa. Here, world-class wildlife encounters unfold across living landscapes where conservation, communities and sustainable tourism work hand in hand. From tracking black leopards and endangered rhinos to exploring vast private conservancies on foot, horseback or game drive, every safari feels personal and purposeful. For travellers seeking exceptional guiding, remarkable biodiversity and a deeper understanding of modern conservation, Laikipia delivers one of Kenya’s most rewarding and unforgettable safari experiences.
Further reading
Seeing a black leopard in the wild is an extraordinary feat. But Dan Peel has captured incredible photos of Laikipia’s now famous black panther. Check out these black leopard pics here
Laikipia pairs well with a Maasai Mara safari. This interesting introduction to Kenya’s Maasai Mara will have you contacting Africa Geographic to book your next African safari. Read more about Maasai Mara here
Laikipia Plateau is one of Kenya’s 47 counties, a mosaic of wildlife conservancies, ranchlands, and commercial farms bridging East Africa’s savannas. Read more about Laikipia safaris here
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
Despite the strategic radio silence from hunters about their trophies, reports are surfacing that more tuskers are being taken in Botswana. The latest is a huge bull with a single tusk weighing an estimated 110 pounds (see the photo below).
With Botswana also suffering from increased poaching in recent years, big-tusked elephants in that country will soon be extremely rare, as they already are in Tanzania, whose population has been hammered by the dual impact of trophy hunting and poaching. Tanzanian trophy hunters have resorted to picking off big bulls that roam from Kenya, which does not permit trophy hunting.
The conservation impact of trophy hunting of these giants is no different to that of poaching. Poachers want the ivory for the market; trophy hunters want it for the wall; both go after the bulls with the biggest tusks. These are the very animals whose experience, genetics and social authority hold herds together. When they are gone, something irreplaceable goes with them.
Botswana has set a record trophy hunting quota of 430 elephants for 2026, the highest anywhere in the world. There are fewer than 90 tuskers left in Africa. Bearing in mind that trophy hunters target big ivory, it does not take a mathematical genius to see the problem here.
And yet Botswana’s politicians and the ‘sustainable use’ lobby ignore this stark reality and distract from criticism by conflating the tusker population with the overall elephant population, making unverified claims about the supposed benefits of trophy hunting and claiming that killing the last remaining big-tusked elephants will reduce human-elephant conflict.
What will it take for common sense to prevail? Time will tell.
Does this mean we should boycott tourism in Botswana and Tanzania? NO, that would undermine remote, conservation-based tourism, and hand even more influence to those who argue that trophy hunting is the best way to generate revenue and jobs from natural resources. Every safari booked strengthens the non-consumptive wildlife economy and shifts the balance further towards photographic tourism. I genuinely believe that this is accelerating the decline of trophy hunting of free-roaming wildlife, and that gives me hope.
So my answer is unequivocal: If you want to help us eradicate the stain of trophy hunting in our wild unfenced areas, now is the time to visit Africa.
What keeps a baboon family together? According to decades of research, it’s the females. Unlike males, which leave their birth groups as they mature, female baboons spend their entire lives surrounded by mothers, daughters and sisters, building lifelong social bonds that do far more than strengthen family ties. Researchers have found that females with the strongest relationships experience less stress, live significantly longer and raise more surviving offspring than those that are socially isolated. Cooperation, grooming, protection and support between female relatives help buffer the challenges of daily life, creating benefits that last a lifetime. Survival isn’t always about strength or speed, but sometimes about the company you keep.
This week, we descend into Tanzania’s spectacular Ngorongoro Crater, where extraordinary wildlife densities meet one of Africa’s richest archaeological landscapes. We also explore new research revealing how elephants are reshaping the Greater Kruger, transforming savannas as restored landscapes reconnect and nature’s ecosystem engineers reclaim their role.
Also in this week’s newsletter: the Okavango Delta is in spectacular flood, and we’ve secured rare high-season availability at one of its classic safari camps. See more under our safari picks below.
Our stories this week
RESHAPING KRUGER
Elephants are transforming Greater Kruger as landscapes reconnect, revealing new insights into savanna ecology, carbon and conservation
NGORONGORO CRATER
Ngorongoro Conservation Area, centred on Tanzania’s famous crater, is a spectacular safari destination of abundant wildlife & ancient history
Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas
Okavango Delta in flood The Okavango Delta is currently experiencing excellent flood levels, transforming this UNESCO World Heritage Site into a shimmering wilderness of channels, lagoons and floodplains alive with wildlife. To take advantage of these exceptional conditions, we have secured exclusive high-season availability at a rustic Delta camp that captures the spirit of Africa’s golden age of safari and experiential travel. Expect expert-guided game drives, mokoro excursions, bush walks and boat safaris in one of Africa’s most extraordinary destinations. Let us tailor-make the perfect Okavango adventure to suit your needs, or explore these exclusive ready-made Delta itineraries (click to view the 4-day or 5-day options). Get in touch with us to plan your adventure.
Classic Tanzania: bush & beach safari – 10 days
The perfect bush and beach trifecta. A classic Tanzanian bush and beach safari that immerses you in iconic locations with time-honoured luxury camps. This is an unforgettable 10-day sojourn that blends the untamed beauty of Tanzania’s northern safari circuit with the tranquil allure of its warm-water beaches. You’ll journey through the awe-inspiring panoramas of the Ngorongoro Crater, the sweeping plains of Serengeti National Park, and the sun-kissed shores of Zanzibar.
We’ve been nominated as Africa’s Leading Tour Operator AND as Africa’s Leading Luxury Safari Company in the 2026 World Travel Awards, and we’d love your support.
By voting for Africa Geographic, you’re backing a more conscious and meaningful way to travel: one that celebrates Africa’s extraordinary biodiversity, connects travellers with authentic experiences, and contributes to conservation on the ground.
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1. Register here.
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4. Scroll down to the following categories, click on them, and vote for Africa Geographic:
Africa’s Leading Tour Operator 2026
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Every vote genuinely helps, and we’re incredibly grateful for your support!
Our safari guests say…
AG safari guests Cristian and Luisa from the UK went on an unforgettable honeymoon safari to Tanzania.
A truly exceptional honeymoon safari, thoughtfully planned and unforgettable. We booked our honeymoon safari with Africa Geographic, and it turned out to be one of the most memorable trips of our lives. From the very first call, the experience felt personal and thoughtfully designed. Stefan took the time to understand what we enjoyed, what we hoped to experience, and even what pace suited us, before suggesting any destination. Based on that conversation, he recommended Tanzania, and the itinerary he built for us was beautifully balanced and perfectly aligned with what we wanted. The logistics were seamless thanks to Wayne, who handled every detail behind the scenes. Transfers, timings, internal flights – everything worked smoothly, and we always felt supported.
The safari itself was extraordinary. Each place we stayed had its own atmosphere and purpose, and the flow of the trip was perfect: Kilimanjaro, Tarangire, Lake Manyara, Ngorongoro, Olduvai, Ndutu, and the Serengeti. We had so many highlights – a night game drive where the spotter found a camouflaged chameleon in the dark, the breathtaking views from Maweninga Camp, the huge elephant herds of Tarangire, the surreal beauty of the Ngorongoro Crater, seeing a leopard up close, witnessing a wildebeest river crossing, visiting Olduvai Gorge, and even having elephants walk right up to our tent in the Serengeti… We would recommend Africa Geographic without hesitation to anyone looking for a safari that is personal, well-designed, and truly special.
Explore some of Africa’s wildest corners in this short film, visiting conservation-focused lodges in landscapes home to gorillas, chimpanzees, shoebills, dugongs and much more – with our sister company, Ukuri. (08:58) Watch here
Some two million years ago, a volcano roughly the size of Mount Kilimanjaro exploded dramatically and collapsed in on itself. Millennia later, its caldera’s ancient walls, in what is now the Ngorongoro Conservation Area (NCA), are still intact, encircling and cradling one of the most biodiverse and precious wild spaces in Africa. The effect is almost cinematic, creating an impression of motionless time, sheltered and protected from the unrelenting advance of human development.
People, livestock and wildlife have shared the Ngorongoro Conservation Area for generations under one of Africa’s most distinctive multiple-land-use conservation models. While this balance continues today, it has also become the subject of significant conservation and community debate in recent years.
Ngorongoro Crater offers a spectacular wilderness that offers wild marvels, breathtaking scenery and complex insight into human history at every turn.
Quick facts
The Ngorongoro Conservation Area (NCA) covers approximately 8,292 km² (829,200 hectares) in northern Tanzania and forms part of the greater Serengeti ecosystem. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is recognised for both its exceptional natural heritage (since 1979) and its outstanding cultural significance (added in 2010), reflecting its unique combination of wildlife conservation, living Maasai culture and globally important archaeological sites. Widely regarded as one of Africa’s greatest natural wonders, the NCA encompasses Ngorongoro Crater, Oldupai Gorge, Laetoli, several smaller volcanic craters, forests, lakes and vast short-grass plains that host part of the Great Migration‘s annual calving season. While the migration essentially follows a circular route, the northwest of the NCA is considered its starting point. Unlike a national park, the area is managed by the Ngorongoro Conservation Area Authority under a multiple-land-use model that allows wildlife and Maasai pastoralists to coexist across much of the landscape.
The Crater is the area’s flagship tourism feature, but the NCA also encompasses several smaller craters, forests, gorges, mountains, lakes, and wetlands in a smorgasbord of ecological variety. Wildlife aside, the secrets of humanity’s ancient histories are enfolded within Ngorongoro’s unique landscapes, and to many, this is the ‘cradle of humankind’. Some of the most famous paleoanthropological sites in the world are found in Oldupai Gorge (Olduvai Gorge), while Laetoli is home to literal footprints of hominid history.
Somewhat unsurprisingly, given the exceptional biodiversity and historical value, the NCA is a designated World Heritage Site. However, under Tanzania’s national law, it is neither a national park nor a game reserve. It is managed independently by the Ngorongoro Conservation Area Authority as a parastatal organisation.
Delicately meandering through a field of flowers in Ngorongoro Conservation Area
The brief, recent history
In the mid-20th century, Ngorongoro was incorporated into the Serengeti National Park, but this was met with considerable backlash from local Maasai pastoralists, who had already been excluded from vast swathes of their homelands to make way for protected areas. Ngorongoro was born of a compromise between conserving history and biodiversity while recognising the value of the land to the Maasai people and neighbouring tribes. This unique multiple-use area was the first of its kind in Africa, and the experiment has proved largely successful. However, burgeoning human populations have necessitated certain policy changes.
These Tanzanian conservation areas are recognised for their ecological importance, historical significance, cultural value and utility for traditional land uses.
Rhinos strolls across the crater floor
The Crater
At 264 km² (26,400 hectares), Ngorongoro Crater is the largest intact caldera in the world, surrounded by a heavily forested rim that rises to 2,300m above the grasslands below. The crater’s centre is dominated by the seasonal Lake Magadi (also spelt Makati), fed by the Ngoitokitok Spring and the Munge River. Courtesy of a complex geological history, the alkaline lake is mineral-rich, and every year, lesser flamingos are attracted to its salty, shallow waters during the breeding season between October and December.
The crater boasts high densities of lion
Given the extraordinary biodiversity, it is only to be expected that the wildlife on offer is equally varied and exciting. Almost all of Africa’s most iconic animals, including the Big 5 and beyond, shelter in this geological cradle. Visitors to the crater have the best chance of seeing one of the region’s fabled black rhinos, which are notoriously difficult to spot. The crater’s black rhinos spend their evenings hidden in the yellow-green fever-trees of the Lerai Forest but descend to the open plains during the day. Though hit hard by poaching in the last century, the numbers have been bolstered by translocated black rhinos from South Africa, and each rhino is now individually monitored and protected. The crater now supports one of Tanzania’s most closely protected populations of eastern black rhinos. Intensive anti-poaching measures, veterinary monitoring and carefully managed breeding have helped the population recover steadily over recent decades, making Ngorongoro one of the best places in East Africa to see this critically endangered species.
The crater is also rumoured to be home to the highest lion density in Africa, possibly by creative marketing teams. Regardless of this speculation’s veracity, it is highly unusual to visit the crater without encountering Africa’s largest cat. While Ngorongoro supports one of Africa’s best-known lion populations, their relative isolation within the crater has required ongoing genetic management through carefully monitored natural dispersal and conservation programmes.
The lion’s fiercest competition, spotted hyenas, are also present in large numbers and are the subjects of a decades-long research project. Keep an eye out for these misrepresented predators lurking along the banks of Lake Magadi, waiting for the opportunity to charge through the shallow waters and snatch up an unsuspecting flamingo.
Massive flocks of flamingos in Lake Magadi
Souvenirs of history
Olduvai (or Oldupai) Gorge is a steep-sided ravine, named for the Maasai word “oldupai”, which means the “place of the wild sisal” in reference to the plants which dominate. Archaeological research in Olduvai Gorge, nearby Lake Ndutu, and surrounding sites has yielded a timeline of our species’ evolution. It traces the progression from scavenging/hunting to the use of stone tools and, eventually, to iron. The scattered fossils, tools and bone fragments reveal the gradual development of communal societies and social complexities that would eventually define our successes (and failures) as a species.
Bone fragments of Homo habilis (approximately 1.9 million years old), Paranthropus boisei (about 1.8 million years old), Homo erectus (1.2 million years old) and, eventually, Homo sapiens (17,000 years ago) have all been found around the gorge.
Just 45km south of Olduvai, the discovery of several sets of footprints preserved for close to 4 million years settled the archaeological debate about whether bipedalism or large brain size evolved first. Famed archaeologist Mary Leakey and her team excavated the Laetoli footprints, which are tentatively believed to have belonged to Australopithecus afarensis. This discovery has been interpreted as proof that early hominids were bipedal long before the evolution of the human brain. Somewhat whimsically, the footprints were discovered by Andrew Hill, who was visiting Dr Leakey at the time. He dodged an elephant dung missile lobbed by a colleague, fell over and found himself staring at history preserved in solidified volcanic ash.
The footprints have since been covered to prevent erosion damage, and none of the active archaeological sites is open to tourists. However, as one of the largest onsite museums in Africa, the Olduvai Gorge Museum offers curious tourists the opportunity to view the footprints’ casts and read about their interpretation. Founded by Mary Leakey in the 1970s, the museum sits on the gorge’s edge and showcases many of the paleoanthropological artefacts from the area.
Walking in the steps of humanity’s history
Ngorongoro’s wildlife
While the geography and history of Ngorongoro are deeply fascinating, the main attraction for most is the spectacular wildlife, even beyond the crater.
Each year around 1.5 million wildebeest, accompanied by hundreds of thousands of zebra and gazelle, move through the wider Serengeti ecosystem. Between January and March many gather on the nutrient-rich short-grass plains around Ndutu and southern Ngorongoro to calve. The resultant spectacle is a once-in-a-lifetime experience for dazzled tourists. Predators and scavengers of every description throw themselves into the wildebeest melee, dodging the sharp horns of defensive mothers to take advantage of the vulnerable calves.
A little cub keeps up with mom’s stride across the crater
For Ngorongoro’s carnivores, this yearly glut increases their own offspring’s chances of survival while providing ample opportunity for inexperienced youngsters to practice their hunting skills. Fortunately, with over 8,000 calves born every day, it is not all death for the calves, and visitors can also soak up the joy of watching the wobbly, fawn-coloured calves find their feet and learn to run.
Quite aside from the adrenaline-inducing predator-prey interactions, Ngorongoro is a paradise for birdwatchers. More than 500 bird species have been recorded across the conservation area, thanks to its remarkable diversity of habitats, from misty montane forests and crater rim woodlands to open grasslands, alkaline lakes and permanent wetlands. Lake Magadi often shimmers pink with lesser flamingos, while grey crowned cranes, secretary birds, kori bustards and a variety of raptors patrol the crater floor. Along the forested rim, birders can look for colourful highland specials such as Schalow’s turaco and the striking augur buzzard, making Ngorongoro one of northern Tanzania’s finest birding destinations.
A large tusker in the heart of the crater
Explore Ngorongoro
If there is a drawback to a safari in the Maasai Mara or Serengeti, it is that each day is focused on exploring the largely open scenery in search of more conventional sightings, which can translate into a kind of safari overload. In contrast, a safari through Ngorongoro can be interspersed with the many diversions and learning experiences.
So many rewarding experiences await visitors to Ngorongoro that an article covering the basics inevitably reads like a checklist. Yet what sets the conservation area apart is the sheer variety it offers beyond a traditional game drive. Descending into the crater for a morning safari is, of course, the highlight for many visitors, but the wider conservation area invites travellers to slow down and explore its geological, cultural and historical treasures.
Maasai warrior crosses the crater edge
The Ngoitokitok Spring remains a popular picnic stop, where visitors can enjoy lunch while watching hippos wallow in the pools below. Guided walks with an armed ranger are available in both Empakaai and Olmoti craters, offering a completely different perspective on the volcanic landscape and the chance to experience Ngorongoro on foot. A visit to Oldupai Gorge Museum brings humanity’s earliest story to life through world-famous fossil discoveries and exhibits, while cultural visits with Maasai communities provide insight into the traditions of the people who have lived alongside wildlife here for generations. During the Great Migration calving season between January and March, many travellers also combine the crater with the nearby Ndutu region, where hundreds of thousands of wildebeest gather to give birth on the short-grass plains. For those seeking quieter corners, the remote Gol Mountains and dramatic views of Ol Doinyo Lengai – East Africa’s only active carbonatite volcano – reward travellers willing to venture beyond the crater’s famous rim.
Experiencing the view
For example, the Ngoitokitok spring is a popular picnic spot with visitors. Lunch can be enjoyed to the serenading of grunting hippopotamus bobbing about in the pool below the spring. Alternatively, the two smaller craters, Olmoti and Empakaai, can be explored on foot with an experienced guide and official NCA ranger. Not far from Olduvai Gorge, the gneiss inselberg of Naseru Rock protrudes sharply from the plains, and a trip to the neighbouring Lake Natron Game Controlled Area will allow visitors to see Ol Doinyo Lengai (“The Mountain of God”), an active volcano whose recent rumblings suggest that an eruption is imminent. And while the craters are often bursting with eager tourists, the geologically fascinating Gol Mountains are more remote and less crowded for the adventurous traveller.
Empakai Crater is a stunning, lesser-known volcanic caldera in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area
Where to stay
Visitors to Ngorongoro can choose from some of Tanzania’s finest safari accommodation, with most luxury lodges perched along the crater rim to maximise the spectacular views. Staying here allows guests to descend into the crater early in the morning before day visitors arrive, making the most of wildlife viewing.
For those visiting during the Great Migration calving season, seasonal tented camps around Ndutu offer front-row access to one of Africa’s greatest wildlife spectacles before continuing onward into the Serengeti.
Elegant lodges offer incredible views as far as the eye can seeElegant lodges offer incredible views as far as the eye can see
Best time to visit Ngorongoro
Ngorongoro is one of Africa’s few safari destinations that delivers outstanding wildlife viewing throughout the year. Because the crater supports a large resident wildlife population, visitors can expect excellent game viewing in any season.
From June to October, the dry season offers cooler temperatures, clear skies and excellent visibility as animals gather around permanent water sources. January to March is particularly rewarding for travellers combining Ngorongoro with the southern Serengeti, as hundreds of thousands of wildebeest gather on the nearby short-grass plains to calve, attracting extraordinary concentrations of predators.
April and May bring the long rains, with fewer visitors, lush green landscapes and attractive accommodation rates. While occasional showers can affect road conditions, photography is often exceptional thanks to dramatic skies and vibrant scenery.
Ngorongoro Crater is a haven for hordes of wildlife, including flamingos, zebras and a lot more
Combining Ngorongoro with the Serengeti and northern Tanzania
Few visitors experience Ngorongoro in isolation. Instead, it forms the centrepiece of Tanzania’s famous Northern Safari Circuit, alongside Serengeti National Park, Tarangire National Park and Lake Manyara National Park.
A typical itinerary begins in Arusha before travelling through Tarangire’s elephant-rich landscapes, spending a night or two at Ngorongoro, and continuing west into the Serengeti. Travellers visiting between January and March often combine the crater with the Ndutu region to witness the Great Migration calving season, while those travelling between June and October usually continue north into the central or northern Serengeti in search of river crossings.
This combination delivers an exceptional variety of landscapes, from ancient volcanic highlands and dense forests to endless plains, making it one of Africa’s most complete safari itineraries.
A leopard in the Ndutu Region of Ngorongoro
Conclusion
Some 3.5 million years ago, a trio of our hominin ancestors took a stroll through some soft volcanic ash towards the local waterhole. They left behind a powerful reminder of our ancient, varied human roots. One can but wonder at the lives experienced by the people who left their footprints in the ash.
In many ways, this legacy has continued in the NCA. The multiple-land-use policy recognises the intimate connection that human residents have to land and its creatures. For tourists, the NCA offers an opportunity to dive back in and reconnect with history, wild spaces, and animals against the primordial backdrop of breathtaking Ngorongoro.
Ngorongoro Conservation Area, centred on Tanzania’s famous crater, is a spectacular safari destination of abundant wildlife & ancient history. Read more about Ngorongoro safaris here
The vast Serengeti in northern Tanzania is home to an extraordinary amount of wildlife and plays host to the greatest show on Earth – the Great Migration. Read more about Serengeti National Park here
When the rains beckon, the wildebeest go, and this never-ending circular journey makes for a compelling safari experience. The Mara River crossings during August to October are fraught with danger, and one gets caught up in the drama of the moment, the chaos, the celebration of life. Read all there is to know about the Great Migration here
The first signs are subtle: a snapped marula branch here, a toppled knobthorn there. Then, almost imperceptibly, the landscape begins to change.
Across the Greater Kruger ecosystem, elephants are once again moving freely through landscapes that were, in many instances, inaccessible to them for more than half a century. As conservationists have removed fences and restored connectivity between private reserves and the Kruger National Park, one of Africa’s most important ecosystem engineers has begun reshaping landscapes that had developed over decades in their absence.
Elephants are nature’s ecosystem engineers, breaking branches and toppling trees to create the diverse mosaic of habitats
A new study published in Biological Conservation has now revealed just how profound the changes can be. Using a combination of long-term field monitoring and aerial count data collected by the Agricultural Research Council (Dr Mike Peel, Animal Production Institute), airborne LiDAR surveys and cutting-edge radar satellite technology (Dr Konrad Wessels, George Mason University), scientists tracked changes in woody vegetation cover and biomass across more than 4,000 km² of private reserves adjacent to Kruger National Park. The results paint a remarkable picture of ecological transformation brought about in a relatively short time by changes in elephant densities following the removal of fences.
What makes this study particularly powerful is that it captures a rare natural experiment. As fences between Kruger National Park and neighbouring private reserves were removed at different times over the past three decades, each reserve effectively represented a different stage of elephant recolonisation. With more than 35 years of elephant and vegetation monitoring, researchers observed how woody vegetation responded as elephants returned to landscapes from which they had long been excluded. The study is further unique in that it relates data collected in the field directly to remotely sensed data, with significant results at scale (spatial and temporal).
Many private reserves bordering Kruger maintained very low elephant numbers for decades. Large trees matured, canopies expanded, nutrient cycling was enhanced, and substantial carbon stores accumulated within the landscape. Importantly, this dense woody vegetation was not necessarily representative of the typical open savanna. Following the erection of veterinary fences in the late 1950s and 1960s, many of these reserves remained largely isolated from elephants for between 50 and 80 years. During that time, large numbers of palatable trees accumulated (for example, Lannea schweinfurthii, Senegalia nigrescens and Sclerocarya birrea) because elephants were no longer browsing, breaking and toppling them as they otherwise would have. The study suggests that the dramatic vegetation changes seen after fence removal represent a transition back to a typical open savanna woody vegetation structure, rather than simply the loss of trees.
When fences were removed, however, elephants responded quickly. In some reserves, elephant densities increased from fewer than 0.5 elephants per square kilometre to more than 5 elephants per square kilometre within two years. The impact was dramatic. Woody canopy cover fell from roughly 50% to 20%, while above-ground woody biomass declined by more than two-thirds. The rapid change is potentially exacerbated by the high density of waterholes in private reserves that allows elephants access to permanent water sources and their favourite trees. These changes unfolded in as little as four years, after which woody biomass approached levels similar to, and in cases lower than, those found across the surrounding Greater Kruger landscape. After four to five years the elephant densities decrease again, but maintain a positive trend similar to Greater Kruger, along with a slower rate of continued woody biomass loss.
The study documents the ecological response to reconnecting landscapes that had been artificially fragmented for decades. Many of these private reserves had been isolated from elephant populations for between 50 and 80 years, allowing unusually dense woody vegetation to develop in their absence. As elephants regained access, they re-established ecological processes that had long been absent, shifting the vegetation towards the more open savanna conditions found across the wider Greater Kruger ecosystem.
The researchers found that the initial spike in elephant density was also temporary. Newly opened reserves experienced a rapid influx of elephants, attracted by decades of accumulated woody vegetation and abundant palatable tree species. As those resources became less concentrated and the vegetation began to resemble neighbouring reserves, elephant densities declined again, but resembled the ever-increasing density of the growing Greater Kruger population.
The study found that newly reconnected reserves experienced a temporary surge in elephant numbers before densities declined as animals dispersed across the wider landscape
Ecosystem engineers at work
Elephants are often described as ecosystem engineers – species capable of physically modifying their environment. They break branches, push over trees, strip bark and create openings in dense woodland. The study also highlights that not all of these changes should be viewed as negative. While elephants reduce woody cover and large trees, they also suppress bush encroachment and create more open savanna. Through these activities, elephants influence everything from habitat structure and biodiversity to nutrient cycling and carbon storage. For some animal species, these changes are beneficial. More open habitats promote grass establishment, support increased grazing opportunities and yield greater structural diversity at the landscape scale. For others, particularly species dependent on large mature trees (e.g. hole-nesting birds, nesting raptors, vultures, bushbabies, genets and even leopards), the consequences are less favourable. If woody cover is reduced too much, highly palatable, shade-loving grass species will become less abundant as the nutrient pumps and tree canopy are removed.
The challenge for conservation managers is that these benefits often come with costs for species dependent on mature trees and for the storage of above-ground carbon.
A new understanding of thresholds
One of the study’s most important findings was the apparent emergence of a threshold. At elephant densities below one and a half elephants per square kilometre, woody biomass changes were relatively modest and difficult to separate from other environmental influences. Above the three-elephants-per-square-kilometre threshold, however, above-ground woody biomass density and tree canopy cover losses accelerated rapidly in a relatively short space of time. This raises questions about long-term trends in elephant densities in the Greater Kruger, their different impacts on large trees versus shrubs, and how these habitat changes may affect other animal species – the topic of ongoing research.
Conserving substantial carbon stocks may not be feasible in conservation areas with elevated elephant densities
The Kruger elephant management paradox
The subdivision of land and the fencing off of protected areas in the Greater Kruger area adjacent to the KNP began in the late 1960s. This disrupted the natural east-west herbivore migration, and because many of the fenced-off areas lacked perennial water, artificial water points had to be constructed. The result was an excessive supply of artificial water points in these areas and the proliferation of water-dependent animal species such as impala and, more recently, elephant, as fences were removed. This means elephant, impala and other water-dependent species are permanently present (temporally continuous utilisation) across the entire adjacent protected-area landscape of the Greater Kruger system, at increased densities, all of the time.
Therefore, while removing fences to join Greater Kruger reestablished elephant movement across the landscape and resulted in more open savanna structure, some processes led to substantial changes in vegetation structure, loss of big trees and significantly reduced carbon stocks.
Woody vegetation in savannas is widely recognised as a critical global carbon reserve that can play an important role in natural climate solutions across Africa, by capturing CO2 from the atmosphere in woody biomass. However, conserving substantial carbon stocks may not be feasible in conservation areas with elevated elephant densities, a reality that conservationists must address.
The study encourages managers to strive for large, connected landscapes with spatial variability in elephant densities – for example, by using management tools such as the strategic placement or removal of artificial waterholes in some areas to create a mosaic of habitat conditions that supports a wide variety of grazing and browsing opportunities. Conservation is increasingly about navigating trade-offs between connectivity, biodiversity, ecosystem function and carbon storage.
Ultimately, the study argues that the goal should not be to maximise either trees or elephants everywhere. Instead, the healthiest savanna landscapes are likely to be large, connected systems with natural variation in elephant densities and vegetation structure. In some areas, dense woodland may persist; in others, elephants will maintain more open habitats. It is this shifting mosaic, rather than any single vegetation state, that supports the greatest diversity of habitats, species and ecological processes.
Looking ahead at Kruger elephants
As more conservation areas reconnect fragmented landscapes, the lessons from Greater Kruger are likely to resonate far beyond South Africa.
The return of elephants is not simply a story about wildlife recovery. It is a story about how one species can reshape an ecosystem, alter the structure of entire landscapes, and remind us that successful conservation often means allowing nature’s most powerful engineers to do what they have always done. Yet it also highlights that when the density of these powerful ecosystem engineers exceeds certain thresholds, it can lead to dramatic changes in habitat structure, the loss of large trees, and reduced carbon stocks, all of which run contrary to other conservation objectives. For example, natural climate solutions projects that aim to mitigate climate change by protecting carbon stocks and enhancing carbon sequestration to reduce Greenhouse Gas Emissions may only be feasible in areas with sufficiently low elephant densities. The satellite monitoring methods demonstrated and calibrated with in-field data in this study are being applied to the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area to track changes in woody vegetation dynamics driven by multiple drivers, including humans, fire, drought, and, of course, elephants.
About Dr. Konrad Wessels and Dr. Mike Peel
Dr. Konrad J. Wessels is an Associate Professor of Remote Sensing in the Department of Geography and GeoInformation Science at George Mason University. His research applies geospatial science and Earth observation to study environmental sustainability.
Dr. Mike J.S. Peel is a Doctor of Philosophy and Specialist Scientist at the Agricultural Research Council, South Africa and a visiting researcher at the School of Animal, Plant and Environmental Sciences at the University of the Witwatersrand.
Reference
Wessels KJ, Peel MJS, Smit IPJ, Armston JD, Li X, Lal P & Urbazaev M. 2026. Assessing the impacts of changing elephant densities on woody vegetation structure in private reserves within the Greater Kruger National Park, South Africa. Biological Conservation 317:111815. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.biocon.2026.111815
Further reading
The Kruger debate: A new study explores how stakeholder opinions differ on managing elephants, from culling to contraception, in APNR, Kruger. Read more on the Kruger debate here
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
The most lucrative wildlife industry
Big news in South Africa is that notorious rhino horn smuggler Dawie Groenewald has been fined R10 million (US$604,000) for rhino horn trafficking. This, after 16 years of evasive manoeuvring.
Groenewald operated a massive rhino horn trafficking syndicate supplying the highly lucrative black market in Southeast Asia. Other syndicate members, including his wife, two prominent veterinarians, a helicopter pilot, and several professional hunters, await their judgment day.
Amongst other nefarious tactics, he took advantage of the ethically flexible trophy hunting industry by organising pseudo hunts, where wealthy Americans and Thai sex workers were used as a front. Hunting rhinos is legal, whereas trading in rhino horn is not. Once the rhinos were killed, the horns were laundered into the illegal rhino horn trade industry and the carcasses buried.
Groenewald was linked to the illegal sale of at least 384 rhino horns, with an estimated value of US$7 million. Not a bad return compared to a US$604,000 downside!
These days, Groenewald is at the centre of a bitter trophy-hunting feud in Botswana, where local communities and rival hunting operators have accused him of a range of wrongdoings, including bribing a government official, to secure a lucrative trophy-hunting concession.
The cost/benefit analysis here does not read well for those trying to shut down the illegal wildlife industries. This cavernous gap between financial benefits and the consequences when caught has to be closed if we are to win the war against the evil ones!
Thirty-five years after cheetahs disappeared from the country of Eswatini, conservationists have brought them back. Two females and two males have been successfully reintroduced to Royal Jozini Private Game Reserve as part of the Southern African cheetah metapopulation programme, laying the foundation for the country’s first breeding population in a generation. With the cats already thriving and beginning to establish neighbouring territories, we hope that the first cubs may not be far away.
The return of an apex predator is always more than the return of a single species. It signals the restoration of ecological processes, renewed genetic diversity and growing confidence that landscapes can once again support the wildlife they once lost.
This week, we head to Kenya’s iconic Maasai Mara to discover why there’s so much more to this legendary ecosystem than the Great Migration. We also follow two young Kalahari cheetahs whose contrasting fortunes reveal just how precarious life can be in one of Africa’s toughest landscapes.
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Our stories this week
MAASAI MARA HOW TO
This introduction to Kenya’s Maasai Mara explores why the reserve remains one of Africa’s greatest safari destinations
KALAHARI CHEETAHS
Two young cheetahs face vastly different fates in the Kalahari, revealing the realities of survival in one of Africa’s wildest semi-deserts
Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas
Malaria-free Big 5 safari in South Africa – 9 days
Discover two of South Africa’s most spectacular malaria-free reserves on a classic Big Five safari, starting in Marataba within Marakele National Park with guided game drives, bush walks and riverside relaxation, before continuing to community-owned Madikwe Game Reserve, a conservation success known for thriving wildlife, expert guiding, seamless transfers and luxurious, family-friendly lodges. This safari is ideal for families and first-time safari goers
Maasai Mara & gorilla trekking – 10 days
Two of Africa’s greatest wildlife encounters in one unforgettable safari. This expertly coordinated East Africa journey combines two of the continent’s most unforgettable wildlife experiences: a classic Big Five and Great Migration safari in Kenya’s Maasai Mara, followed by intimate gorilla trekking in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. Short flights between destinations maximise your time in the wild.
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WATCH
From playful hyena cubs and a rare aardwolf to lions tackling buffalo and endangered wattled cranes, our latest Top Wildlife Clips episode brings you Africa’s most unforgettable sightings from May. Join us for a mini virtual safari across the continent. (07:47) Click here to watch
The Maasai Mara combines iconic wildlife, dramatic scenery and thriving community conservation.
The Great Migration is spectacular, but exceptional safari experiences occur year-round.
Community conservancies protect wildlife while supporting Maasai livelihoods through responsible tourism.
Conservancies offer exclusive safaris with fewer vehicles, walking safaris and night drives.
Choosing the right season and location shapes every Maasai Mara safari experience.
Want to visit Maasai Mara National Reserve to witness its wildlife up close? Check out our ready-made safaris to Maasai Mara here. Or let our travel experts plan the perfect sustainable African safari for you.
The Maasai Mara ecosystem is one of the most famous wilderness areas in Africa and one that attracts visitors from near and far. The breathtaking view of the sunrise from Oloololo (Siria) Escarpment, some 2,000m above sea level and 300m above the plains below, was forever etched into human memory by the film “Out of Africa”.
Below the mountains, the Mara River winds its serpentine route to the south, hidden beneath groves of riverine trees, and the fields of red oat grass stretch as far as the eye can see. It is from here that one can really understand why the Maa people of the area referred to this place as “Mara”, which, literally translated, means “spotted” or “mottled” – concerning the trees and clumps of vegetation that dot the landscape.
Hunting the herds on the plains
Scenically, the Maasai Mara is one of the most beautiful places on the planet. The dawn light is a photographer’s dream: golden and soft. Rather than detracting from the natural beauty, the multicoloured hot air balloons drifting silently through the air add something fantastic to the morning atmosphere. For centuries, the Maasai people have shared this land with their wild neighbours – look carefully, and you will find the ancient grooves of the cattle paths worn by millions of bovine hooves marking the routes to salt licks still used today. Look even more carefully, and you might just find an abandoned old Volkswagen bus hidden in a secret valley known only to a few observant or lucky souls.
A leopard marches through a herd of gazelle
The facts
The Greater Maasai Mara Ecosystem covers more than 350,000 hectares (3,500km²) of protected and wildlife-friendly land in southwestern Kenya. At its heart lies the 151,000-hectare Maasai Mara National Reserve, surrounded by a network of community-owned conservancies that collectively protect more than 200,000 hectares of critical habitat. Together, these unfenced conservation areas form one of Africa’s most important wildlife landscapes, connecting with the Serengeti ecosystem to the south in Tanzania and extending towards the Loita Plains to the north and east.
The Mara Triangle on the western bank of the Mara River comprises one-third of the Maasai Mara National Reserve. It is run by the Mara Conservancy on behalf of Narok County Government. The remaining two-thirds of the Reserve, on the eastern side of the Mara River, is run by the Narok County Government.
Community-owned conservancies currently make up more than 140,000 hectares, with additional land under negotiation. Prominent conservancies within the reserve include (but are not limited to):
Conservancy
Area (km²)
Mara North
292 (29,170 hectares)
Mara Naboisho
210 (21,000 hectares)
Olare Motorogi
135 (13,500 hectares)
Ol Kinyei
75 (7,540 hectares)
Lemek
70 (7,020 hectares)
Ol Chorro Oiroua
65 (6,470 hectares)
Enonkishu
24 (2,400 hecftares)
Nashulai
40 (400 hectares)
Olderkesi
105 (10,500 hectares)
Pardamat Conservation Area
260 (26,000 hectares)
Siana Conservancy
110 (11,000 hectares)
Oloisukut Conservation
93 (9,300 hectares)
Olarro North & South
100 (10,000 hectares)
The concept of individually- or community-owned conservancies should be considered a Kenyan conservation success story. The rangelands surrounding the National Reserve were once cattle grazing lands, but now the communities of landowners rent out the land to tourism operators, and the wildlife is protected. Tourists that visit the conservancies play an enormous role in ensuring the future of these protected wilderness areas by ensuring a continuous revenue stream for the local communities. Given that the use of the land is reserved for paying tour operators, it also means that visitors to these areas are treated to a more exclusive safari experience. With over 70% of Kenyan wildlife existing outside of government-protected wilderness areas, it is easy to see why conservancies will be critical to conservation efforts in the future.
Today, the Greater Maasai Mara’s conservancies are recognised internationally as a benchmark for community-based conservation. They have helped secure vital wildlife habitat beyond the boundaries of the National Reserve, maintained traditional pastoral livelihoods and supported one of the highest densities of large mammals anywhere in Africa. With more than 70% of Kenya’s wildlife occurring outside formally protected areas, these conservancies are increasingly seen as essential to the long-term survival of the country’s wildlife and one of the strongest examples of conservation working hand in hand with local communities.
Hot-air ballooning over the river
Beyond the migration
The Great Migration is one of nature’s greatest spectacles. Every year from August until October, 1.3-1.5 million wildebeest, accompanied by roughly 200,000 zebra and several hundred thousand gazelles, make the treacherous journey from the Serengeti into Maasai Mara. Driven by their quest for food, they flow across the landscape and are forced across crocodile-infested rivers: battling currents and leaping over hippo only to be forced to dodge the predators waiting on the opposite bank. It is a chaotic, adrenaline-inducing smorgasbord of survival instincts on a knife-edge and the predators throw themselves into the melee with joyous abandon. Predator-prey interactions are common, and visitors often witness dramatic hunting behaviour.
A cheetah mom with a full litter of cubs navigates the plains
That said, there is far more to the Maasai Mara than the migration. All year round, wildlife enthusiasts are treated to spectacular sightings of the Big 5, and the cheetah sightings are astounding. The Mara remains one of Africa’s premier destinations for cheetah sightings, thanks to its open grasslands and healthy predator populations. The Mara is home to some of the largest hyena clans in Africa. Black rhinos remain uncommon but can occasionally be seen, particularly in the Mara Triangle and selected conservancies. Many visitors have found themselves delighted not only by the larger animals but also by courageous jackal, cheeky bat-eared foxes and graceful serval, as well as the striking crowned cranes and ubiquitous secretary birds.
Crossing the Mara River
The experience
The Maasai Mara has something to offer every taste (and an array of varied budgets), but the knowledge of experienced guides can make the difference between a good safari and a once-in-a-lifetime adventure. Guides know the weather, the area, the best (and worst) roads and the animals, and they can use that information to make informed decisions. A canny visitor (or guide) can use the topography to their advantage during the high tourist season by using crests and viewpoints to spot sightings from a distance but during the quieter times, finding animals often requires more effort and skill. A particularly good time to visit the Mara is just after the departure of the migration: the grass is shorter; the predators often experience a ‘baby-boom’, and there is far less pressure from other safari vehicles. The Maasai Mara experience also lends itself to women planning their safari – alone or in groups.
Big 5 sightings are abundant
The Mara is enormous and covering ground is essential to experiencing the beauty of this ecosystem in its entirety. The days may be long, but nothing is as refreshing as lunching beneath the boughs of an ancient fig tree, languishing in its shade and perhaps speculating as to how much history the fig has witnessed over its long life. The rains are biannual – the “short rains” usually arrive around November and dissipate sometime in January and then the “long rains” begin again in April until around June. The weather, however, is unpredictable and torrential downpours and afternoon thunderstorms are not uncommon. Getting stuck up to the axles in black cotton soil is part of the Mara experience and should simply be accepted in the spirit of adventure.
A cheetah walks the ridge, against the Mara’s fleeting dusk colours
For the most part, the afternoon thunderstorms dissipate just in time for another Mara treat: the sunset. With the dust of the day washed away by the rain, the landscape is once again drenched in gold, this time with the faintest of pinkish hues. The extraordinary beauty of the Maasai Mara and its abundance of wildlife make it deserving of its reputation as one of the most exceptional safari experiences in Africa.
A lioness surveys her kingdom
Reserve or conservancy?
First-time visitors are often surprised to discover that “the Mara” is not a single protected area. The ecosystem is divided between the Maasai Mara National Reserve and a network of community conservancies that surround it.
The National Reserve offers classic Mara landscapes and some of the most famous migration crossings. Conservancies, by contrast, offer lower visitor densities, night drives, walking safaris and greater flexibility for photographers. Many seasoned safari-goers choose an itinerary that combines both, gaining access to the best wildlife experiences across the ecosystem.
Black rhinos remain uncommon but can occasionally be seen, particularly in the Mara Triangle and selected conservancies
Choosing where to stay
One of the defining features of a Maasai Mara safari is the sheer diversity of accommodation. Visitors can choose from classic tented camps, family-friendly safari lodges, intimate owner-run camps and some of Africa’s most exclusive luxury properties.
The Maasai Mara National Reserve tends to offer larger lodges and easier access to migration river crossings, while the surrounding conservancies focus on low-density tourism, smaller camps and more personalised guiding. Many conservancy camps limit guest numbers and vehicle density, creating a more private safari experience. The choice ultimately depends on priorities: maximum wildlife density, photographic opportunities, family travel, exclusivity or budget.
Elegant comfort on the banks of the Mara River
The luxury safari experience
The Maasai Mara has evolved into one of Africa’s premier luxury safari destinations. Exclusive camps in conservancies such as Mara North, Naboisho, Olare Motorogi and Olderkesi combine exceptional wildlife viewing with world-class hospitality, private vehicles, fine dining and highly personalised guiding.
For many travellers, the greatest luxury is not the thread count or wine list but the exclusivity of the experience itself. Conservancy regulations often limit vehicle numbers and guest beds, allowing visitors to enjoy sightings without crowds. Activities unavailable in the National Reserve, such as night drives, guided walks and off-road wildlife viewing, add further depth to the safari experience.
Ballooning over the Mara River
When is the best time to visit the Maasai Mara?
The Maasai Mara offers a year-round spectacle.
The dramatic Mara River crossings during the Great Migration, August to mid-October, are prime time. This is the peak tourism season, with many tourists and vehicles at the crossing points and predator sightings. The river crossings are all within the national reserve, so crowds are unavoidable. Booking a lodge in a private concession in one of the community reserves means fewer tourists during game drives, except when viewing river crossings. If you wish to view the river crossings, then late September and early October are less crowded than August and most of September.
Alternatively, the ‘Secret Season’ (late mid-October to April) provides lush landscapes, abundant predator action on new calves, and significantly lower visitor numbers for an exclusive, tranquil experience.
Experiencing the thundering herds on foot during a walking safari
When the rains beckon, the wildebeest go, and this never-ending circular journey makes for a compelling safari experience. The Mara River crossings during August to October are fraught with danger, and one gets caught up in the drama of the moment, the chaos, the celebration of life. Read all there is to know about the Great Migration here
A photographic journey through Kenya’s Maasai Mara during the Little Rains, where light, wildlife and vast horizons shape moments of wonder. Check out these epic photos here
Citizen scientists are uncovering rare insights into individual cheetah lives in the Kalahari.
Two young cheetahs reveal how survival depends on opportunity, persistence and luck.
An unusual coalition acceptance highlights the social flexibility of male cheetahs.
A vulnerable orphan’s fate underscores the risks facing dispersing juveniles.
Long-term monitoring helps reveal behaviours and survival challenges rarely witnessed in the wild.
Want to see cheetahs on safari? Check out this cheetah conservation safari. We also have plenty other ready-made safaris to choose from, or let us build one just for you.
In the Kalahari Desert, patience is rewarded.
After years of following cheetahs across this vast, arid landscape, I have witnessed a wide range of behaviours, yet the Kalahari always seems to reveal new stories to those willing to watch carefully and keep an open mind.
When I am in the southern Kalahari, my attention is inevitably drawn to one of the ecosystem’s most iconic predators: the cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus). I know this population intimately through my involvement in Cheetahs of the Kalahari, an independent citizen-science project focused on the cheetahs of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.
The project is run by Wilmari Barnfield, Melanie Gorsler, Mark Kaptein and myself. While the project is not associated with any conservation authority, we rely on visitors to the park to share photographs and sightings, allowing us to identify individual cheetahs and maintain long-term records of the population.
I personally visit the park several times a year, collecting observations while travelling as a regular visitor. Within the project, each cheetah is identified by its unique spot pattern and recorded using identification codes, sighting histories and population data. We maintain detailed records and produce identification guides that enable visitors to recognise individual animals and contribute valuable sightings.
Most often, I focus on females, particularly those with cubs. Their movements tend to be more predictable, making them easier to follow over extended periods. But in December 2025, an unexpected story began to unfold – one centred on a young male.
A brief note on cheetah naming
Throughout this article, individual cheetahs are referred to by names. These names are used solely as a practical way to distinguish known individuals and communicate observations. Within the project, all animals are identified scientifically through unique spot patterns and recorded using formal identification codes.
Citizen science depends on collaboration, and every sighting is important. I often receive messages from visitors excited to share which cheetah they have encountered, and those reports frequently become valuable additions to the dataset. In return, I am always eager to integrate this information into the broader understanding of the population. In remote ecosystems such as the Kalahari, every pair of eyes in the field contributes to the bigger picture.
An unlikely alliance
In December 2025, I began receiving reports of a young lone male cheetah following an established coalition known as the Thompson Twins. Male cheetahs often form coalitions, usually with brothers, to defend territory and improve their chances of survival. Outsiders, however, are rarely welcomed.
At first, the young male – later named Thys – kept his distance. He moved like a shadow behind them: cautious, and persistent. He was noticeably smaller than the coalition males and clearly aware of the risk he was taking.
The young male following the Thompson Twins
Male cheetahs can be aggressively territorial towards rivals. Encounters may escalate rapidly and can result in severe injury or death. For Thys, approaching two dominant males significantly larger than himself was a considerable gamble.
On 15 January 2026, he reduced the distance and moved in close. The reaction was immediate. The Thompson Twins confronted him with force, posturing, biting and asserting dominance. For hours, Thys remained under pressure and unable to break free from their control. But the encounter did not end there.
The Thompson twins confront the young male, ‘Thys’
Thys displayed classic submissive behaviour often seen when a cheetah attempts to join an established coalition. Individuals in this situation frequently use soft vocalisations and make themselves appear as non-threatening as possible by lowering their bodies, flattening their ears and adopting a crouched posture. Such behaviour helps reduce the likelihood of further aggression from dominant males.
Though slightly injured, Thys survived the encounter. In the days that followed, something remarkable happened: the coalition began tolerating his presence.
Despite receiving a number of injuries, Thys survived the confrontation
Gradually, the tension diminished. The three males were observed resting together and later feeding on the same kills. What began as hostility evolved into tolerance and, eventually, apparent acceptance.
Three months later, the trio remained together. For a young male dispersing alone, this outcome is unusual.
The period after leaving the mother is one of the most dangerous stages in a cheetah’s life, particularly for a lone male dispersing before the average dispersal age recorded in the Kalahari, which is typically between 18 and 22 months. Mortality rates are high, especially in an environment where prey availability fluctuates, and encounters with lions, leopards, and spotted hyenas pose constant risks.
The trio remains together
Young cheetahs are still developing their hunting skills and often struggle to secure prey consistently. Some succumb to starvation, while others are injured or killed by predators during this vulnerable phase.
According to long-term research conducted by Gus and Margie Mills and published in Kalahari Cheetahs: Adaptations to an Arid Region, approximately 31% of cubs survive to independence. Survival after dispersal and before successful territory establishment is estimated at between 40% and 60%, depending on environmental conditions. The principal causes of mortality during this period include starvation, predation and the physical demands of long-distance movement.
Thys’ persistence appears to have played an important role in his eventual acceptance by the coalition – a development that may significantly improve his chances of long-term survival.
A different fate and a struggling cheetah mother
At the same time, another story was unfolding.
On 10 January 2026, I spotted a lone cheetah resting in the shade. At first glance, I thought it was a well-known female named Lizzie. As I approached, however, the differences became clear.
This was a young female, no more than a year old. At her estimated age, she would normally still have been accompanying her mother. Yet she was alone.
She did not call out, as separated cubs often do. Instead, she remained silent and watchful. She appeared thin, though not yet emaciated. When she finally moved, something felt unusual.
The young cheetah female
Cheetahs are typically purposeful in their movements. Once they choose a direction, they tend to commit to it unless something intervenes. This young female did the opposite. She hesitated repeatedly, changed direction and appeared uncertain of where to go. Then she disappeared into the dunes.
I searched for her over the following days without success. In a landscape as unforgiving as the Kalahari, uncertainty often carries serious consequences. Yet nine days later, she reappeared alive and in better condition than expected. Once again, she moved north and vanished. Meanwhile, another adult female was becoming a growing concern.
The young female
Eli, Lizzie’s sister, was raising her first litter of four cubs. Unfortunately, she had already lost one cub during the early months. In early January 2026, she had been successfully hunting blue wildebeest calves with increasing confidence. For a young mother, it was a promising start. However, targeting blue wildebeest calves carries considerable risk. Adult wildebeest often defend their young aggressively, and I have received numerous reports and photographs showing cheetahs being charged and attacked during these encounters. Their horns can inflict severe injuries, sometimes fatally.
Eli with her cubsEli hunting a wildebeest calf, facing the wrath of a wildebeest mother
For a female raising cubs, every hunt requires balancing the need to feed herself and her offspring against the danger posed by defensive prey.
By early February 2026, Eli’s condition had deteriorated significantly. She was visibly emaciated. Her hunting behaviour had also changed. Rather than targeting her typical prey, she had begun killing black-backed jackals and Cape foxes – unusual behaviour for such a highly specialised predator. This shift may indicate increased stress, declining condition or difficulty securing preferred prey.
Her cubs also appeared weakened and bore multiple injuries. Despite repeated kills, the condition of the family did not seem to improve.
In February, Eli began to look progressively worse – with bones protrudingEli turned to hunting jackals
On 16 February 2026, I received a report of Eli and her cubs. While examining the photographs, I noticed that one of the young cheetahs appeared slightly larger than the others. After comparing spot patterns, I confirmed that it was not one of Eli’s cubs. It turns out the young female I had encountered earlier had joined Eli’s family group.
By this stage, Eli appeared to be accompanied by only two of her original four cubs, indicating that another cub had likely been lost. Eli seemed willing to tolerate the orphaned female in close proximity – behaviour that is unusual for a female cheetah, particularly a relatively inexperienced young mother.
Unfortunately, neither Eli, her cubs nor the orphaned female appeared to be in good condition.
Eli with three cubs – one of which was an orphaned female not belonging to her
On 22 February 2026, the situation reached a critical point. That morning, Eli was seen with her cubs and the young female. When she eventually moved off, only her cubs followed. The orphaned female remained behind, calling persistently and appearing too weak to keep up. Not long after, reports emerged of a female leopard killing a cheetah in the area. The timing raised immediate questions, but the identity of the victim remained uncertain.
By the end of February, Eli, her cubs and the young female did not appear in good conditionThe young female in very poor condition
Careful examination of photographs and spot-pattern analysis eventually provided the answer. The cheetah killed by the leopard was the orphaned young female.
It is a tragic outcome. Already separated from her mother and forced to navigate independence prematurely, the young female had briefly found companionship alongside another female with cubs of a similar age. Eli’s apparent tolerance of her presence represented an unusual and fascinating behavioural observation. Whether that relationship might have influenced the young female’s future can never be known. Circumstances ultimately took a different course, and her brief, uncertain journey came to an end.
The young female was killed by a leopard
Two cheetah stories, one landscape
These two stories unfolded simultaneously within the same harsh environment.
One tells of a young male who improved his chances of survival through persistence and acceptance into an established coalition. The other highlights the vulnerability of a solitary juvenile attempting to navigate life without maternal guidance. Such outcomes are not unusual in the Kalahari. Life here is shaped by drought, competition, predation and opportunity. For cheetahs, survival is never guaranteed. Yet every sighting contributes to a broader understanding of this remarkable population. Through the observations of visitors, photographers and citizen scientists, individual lives can be followed across years, revealing stories that might otherwise remain hidden among the dunes.
A cheetah mother has been observed simultaneously raising two cheetah cubs of different age classes – behaviour never witnessed in the wild. Read our last update from the Cheetahs of the Kalahari Project here.
About Lucia Quindici
Lucia Quindici is a field guide, naturalist and co-founder of the independent citizen-science project Cheetahs of the Kalahari. Working alongside Wilmari Barnfield, Melanie Gorsler and Mark Kaptein, she helps document and monitor the cheetahs of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park using photographic identification and visitor-contributed sightings.
Citizen scientists contribute important data to the Cheetahs of the Kalahari Project. If you have been to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in the last ten years and have photographed cheetah there, share your pics and info with the Cheetahs of the Kalahari Project (cheetahsofkgalagadi@gmail.com). Include the location, date and any important additional info. Read more about the project here.
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
Photos that trigger
Our winning photograph this year is perhaps the most evocative wildlife image I have ever seen. It is also highly polarising, prompting protests that it crossed a deeply personal boundary.
Let me be clear: we welcome all feedback on our selections. Engaging with our community is one of the most rewarding parts of this job, even, and perhaps especially, when that feedback challenges us.
One beautifully reasoned email from a long-time subscriber argued that our winning image represents a slide by the tourism industry into raw voyeurism. He pointed out that 14 of our 53 finalist photos feature predators and prey, suggesting this selection reflects a broader cultural sickness, a bloodlust among tourists who only value nature for its violence. It was a compelling perspective that sparked an interesting email discussion.
I agree with him on one point: the winning photo is undeniably graphic and hard to stomach. It took me several viewings to see past the raw, upsetting visual impact to appreciate the technical mastery behind the lens.
Where our views diverge, however, is the idea that the intense energy of this photograph translates into an industry-wide pathology.
As a species, our fascination with apex predators and the morbid drama of the kill is well-documented. Yet many of us share a profound discomfort with the modern influx of Instagram and YouTube “influencers” who chase engineered drama, cross ethical boundaries and disrupt animal behaviour to fluff up their engagement metrics. But that is not what happened here.
In this instance, the photographer acted with absolute professional integrity. He did not stage the moment, nor did he centre himself in the narrative. The event unfolded naturally, and he simply used his craft to document it.
The profound, visceral impact of this image is precisely why it earned Petr Slavík the title of Photographer of the Year. It reached out, grabbed us by the nerve endings, and communicated an undeniable truth about the wild. That truth may be uncomfortable for a modern humanity accustomed to a pampered, packaged view of nature, but it is an authentic depiction of the brutal struggle for survival that defines the natural world.
So, yes, this is an incredibly tough photo to look at. But no, it does not represent a slide into voyeurism. It represents a mirror held up to nature, entirely unblinking.
We are deeply grateful for the difficult questions our tribe members raise. The resulting dialogue is invaluable, keeping us sharp, reflective, and always questioning our own boundaries.
Elephants may be the architects of Africa’s savannahs, but some of their most important beneficiaries are creatures small enough to fit in the palm of your hand. A 15-year experiment in Kenya found that when elephants disappeared from parts of the landscape, the dung beetles that depend on their dung began disappearing too. In the experiment, nearly a quarter of dung beetle species vanished, along with two-thirds of the individual beetles, in areas where elephants were absent.
This is one of the clearest demonstrations yet of coextinction, where the loss of one species directly triggers the decline of another. What’s more, without the beetles, dung accumulated, seed dispersal declined and nutrient cycling slowed, weakening the processes that keep savannah ecosystems functioning. Protecting elephants means protecting an entire community of life that depends on them, including some of the smallest and easiest to overlook.
This week, we explore the possibilities of safari in the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area, and bring you a guide to the 11 canid species present in Africa.
Our stories this week
KAZA SAFARI
Journey through KAZA, Africa’s largest conservation landscape, where wildlife, communities and tourism connect five nations
AFRICAN CANIDS
11 African canids, from wild dogs and jackals to foxes, hunt the continent’s deserts, alpine grasslands, savannahs and woodlands
Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas
Southern Africa wild dog safari – 11 days
This unforgettable 11-day journey through Southern Africa, led by expert guides, will take you to all the best spots to see endangered African wild dogs. Visit Hwange, the Okavango Delta, Kwando Reserve, and stop over in Victoria Falls. Experience guided bush walks, game drives and mokoro excursions – all in search of painted wolves.
Namibia safari – Sossusvlei to Etosha – 13 days
A 13-day private guided safari through the best of Namibia. This safari showcases the towering dunes of Sossusvlei and the Atlantic coast at Walvis Bay to the ancient landscapes of Damaraland, the wildlife-rich plains of Etosha and Onguma, and the vibrant capital of Windhoek. With plenty of time to explore, meet local communities and enjoy exceptional wildlife and birding, this is the ultimate Namibian journey.
We’ve been nominated as Africa’s Leading Tour Operator AND as Africa’s Leading Luxury Safari Company in the 2026 World Travel Awards, and we’d love your support.
By voting for Africa Geographic, you’re backing a more conscious and meaningful way to travel: one that celebrates Africa’s extraordinary biodiversity, connects travellers with authentic experiences, and contributes to conservation on the ground.
How to vote:
1. Register here.
2. Complete the short sign-up form and check your inbox to activate your account.
3. Once registered, head to the Africa voting page here.
4. Scroll down to the following categories, click on them, and vote for Africa Geographic:
Africa’s Leading Tour Operator 2026
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Every vote genuinely helps, and we’re incredibly grateful for your support!
Our safari guests say…
AG safari guests, John and Kristen from the USA, had a top-notch safari in Tanzania:
“Christian Boix of Africa Geographic planned our safari to Tanzania. His on-the-ground knowledge of Tanzania, professionalism, and responsiveness throughout the process were top-notch. The trip went seamlessly. Our guide’s knowledge was excellent. We saw so much wildlife. The accommodations were beautiful. The staff at every place we stayed were professional, welcoming and attentive. The food was delicious. We also appreciate Africa Geographic’s involvement in conservation efforts. I wouldn’t hesitate to refer Christian and Africa Geographic to others!”
You saw the photographs in our Photographer of the Year competition. Now watch the heartbreaking video. After a failed attempt to cross Zambia’s fast-flowing Luangwa River, a pride of lions became trapped on a steep riverbank. While the adults eventually escaped, two small cubs were left behind. As crocodiles and hippos closed in, the cubs ran desperately along the bank in search of an escape route that never came. Filmed over an entire day by wildlife photographer Marc Mol, the footage captures one of nature’s most brutal realities, including the moment a massive crocodile seizes a cub as it makes a final dash for safety. (08:03) Watch here
KAZA links five nations into Africa’s largest transboundary conservation landscape.
Wildlife corridors enable elephants and other species to move freely.
Tourism creates livelihoods that strengthen conservation and community development.
Local initiatives address human-wildlife conflict through practical, community-led solutions.
Travellers experience interconnected ecosystems, cultures, and iconic safari destinations.
Want to visit the protected areas of Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area on safari? Let us tailor-make your safari to KAZA.
Motoring across a flooded Zambezi floodplain towards an island of low trees, wind in our hair and the late-afternoon sun sinking ever so slightly towards the horizon, it felt like we had slipped into another world.
We were travelling through one of Africa’s last great connected wildernesses – a journey that would take us across rivers and borders, through quiet floodplains and iconic national parks, into places where wildlife still moves as it always has. Along the way, we would encounter elephants, birds and vast landscapes, alongside the people and ideas shaping the future of conservation in this remarkable region.
Just us – four photojournalists in Namibia’s Zambezi Region (formerly the Caprivi Strip), in the far northeast of the country – exploring a legendary southern African safari attraction: the Kavango-Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area (TFCA).
The acronyms can be off-putting, but to understand what KAZA is about, it helps to first set the scene – to understand who is who, and what is where, on this immense southern African canvas.
Spanning parts of five countries – Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe – and involving government ministries, local communities and conservation organisations such as WWF and African Parks, KAZA is the world’s largest terrestrial transboundary conservation area.
It is every bit as vast as it sounds: a multi-country conservation landscape roughly the size of France. At its heart lie the Kavango, Kwando and Zambezi river systems, supporting critical habitats upon which both people and wildlife depend.
Kaza: cross-border conservation
At the heart of KAZA’s conservation vision is a simple but powerful principle: wildlife does not recognise political boundaries. For centuries, elephants, buffalo, predators and countless other species moved freely across the vast river systems, floodplains and woodlands that today span five nations. By linking protected areas, conservancies and community-managed landscapes into a single connected ecosystem, KAZA helps restore and maintain these ancient migration routes, allowing wildlife to respond naturally to seasonal changes in water, food availability and breeding opportunities.
This connectivity is particularly important for wide-ranging species such as elephants and African wild dogs, whose long-term survival depends on access to large, interconnected landscapes. By protecting ecological corridors across international borders, KAZA not only supports healthier wildlife populations and greater genetic diversity but also strengthens the resilience of one of Africa’s most important conservation strongholds for generations to come.
One of KAZA’s greatest strengths is the ease with which travellers can move between its diverse destinations. Well-established tourism infrastructure, international airports in hubs such as Kasane, Livingstone, Victoria Falls and Katima Mulilo, and a network of road, air and river connections make multi-country safaris remarkably accessible. Within a matter of days, travellers can experience Namibia’s floodplains, Botswana’s elephant-rich waterways, Zambia’s conservation initiatives and Zimbabwe’s iconic wilderness areas. This seamless connectivity transforms what might once have been separate safari destinations into a single, interconnected journey through one of Africa’s last great wilderness systems.
As we move through it, what becomes clear is that KAZA is not simply a conservation area – it is a living system. Wildlife depends on freedom of movement; communities depend on the land and rivers; and tourism, when done well, becomes the thread that binds both together.
Wild dogs in the Lower Zambezi Region
Stretching from Luengue-Luiana National Park in southeastern Angola, through a mosaic of national parks, forest reserves and community-managed conservancies, to Zambia’s Lower Zambezi National Park, KAZA is increasingly viewed as central to the future of sustainable tourism and conservation in southern Africa.
Vital to its success are the employment and livelihood opportunities it creates, helping secure both the future of wildlife populations and the integrity of the rivers and watersheds upon which all life here depends.
Back to the unsung floodplain
It is April, and the dry season is still a few months away. To the east, two fishermen are bathed in the glow of sunset as they cast a net from their mokoro. All around us, as we drift silently around the island in pursuit of an African black crake delicately stepping between flooded branches, comes the sound of birds settling in to roost.
We drift, we listen, and we begin to understand the rhythm of this place in Namibia’s Zambezi Region, wedged between Angola, Zambia and Botswana.
A landscape of rivers, floodplains and wetlands, Namibia’s Zambezi Region offers a safari experience unlike the country’s more arid destinations. Visitors are drawn by exceptional birding, seasonal concentrations of elephants and buffalo, river-based activities and a sense of exclusivity in one of southern Africa’s least crowded wildlife destinations.
In the dry season, the same scene could feature elephants, buffalo and the multitude of creatures that follow them to water.
Boating in Namibia’s Zambezi Region
This is a landscape where floodplains pulse with life and more than 400 bird species fill the air – a quieter safari experience perhaps, but no less extraordinary. It feels utterly private and exclusive. We find ourselves immersed in a version of Africa that is becoming increasingly rare: uncrowded, unscripted and deeply authentic.
We arrive via Katima Mulilo, the regional hub of the Zambezi Region, just two hours by road from Botswana’s transport gateway of Kasane. When I was in the air force, fresh out of university, Katima was considered the back of beyond. Today, it is thriving – thanks largely to tourism and the industries that support it.
Birding and river guide Vincent Walubita, trained through initiatives linked to KAZA, joins us as our skipper threads the boat through papyrus-fringed channels in search of Allen’s gallinule, hidden among a distracting abundance of egrets, herons and jacanas. With more than 400 species recorded in the region, Vincent explains that seeing fifty or more species on a single cruise is not unusual.
We follow his lead through the waterways, realising that here, knowledge of birds and rivers is not simply a skill – it is a livelihood.
Further west, we visit Horseshoe Bend, a seasonal wetland within the Kwando system where wildlife congregates during the dry months. Elephants arrive in slow procession, antelope edge cautiously in to drink, and predators wait patiently on the margins.
Kwando and the living Bwabwata corridor
Moving further along the B8 highway, deeper into Namibia’s eastern Zambezi Region and the Kwando River landscape, the character of the land begins to shift.
Nearby, at the Sijwa Project, we meet a recycling team transforming waste into opportunity. Forty discarded aluminium cans become a single butter dish destined for use in nearby safari camps. Discarded plastic water bottles are also turned into sustainable ecobricks. It is a small-scale enterprise, but symbolic of a larger KAZA philosophy: conservation creating opportunity, and opportunity reinforcing conservation.
Ecobricks made from bottles are used for construction – one of Sijwa Project’s initiativesThe recycling team at Sijwa
We continue west into Bwabwata National Park, one of Namibia’s most fascinating protected areas. Unlike most national parks, people live within its boundaries, sharing space with elephants, buffalo and predators.
Leopard in Bwabwata
Here, conservation is not separated from daily life. The park forms one of KAZA’s most important wildlife corridors, allowing animals to move between ecosystems much as they have done for centuries. It is a reminder that connectivity – both ecological and social – lies at the heart of the KAZA vision.
Elephants in Bwabwata
Chobe: the gathering of giants
After several days exploring Namibia’s Zambezi Region, we cross into northern Botswana, arriving in Kasane on the edge of Chobe National Park.
The Chobe River frontage, bordering Namibia, is undeniably busy – and for good reason. A collection of lodges and hotels offers front-row access to a floodplain system renowned for its wildlife. We arrive at the river’s edge as elephants gather in their hundreds, creating one of Africa’s most celebrated wildlife spectacles. Buffalo spread across the floodplains, hippos churn the shallows, and birdlife fills every branch, reedbed and sandbank.
Close encounters on the Chobe River
Yet as famous as Chobe is for its wildlife, it is the people who reveal tourism’s deeper value.
Guide Richard Kamwi Rungwe demonstrates this almost immediately. Within 20 metres of leaving the riverbank by boat, we have already added giant kingfisher, African pied wagtail and wood sandpiper to our list before the sun has fully risen above the horizon.
His knowledge is not merely impressive; it is a reminder of how conservation and tourism create careers rooted in the natural world.
Darter drying out its plumage along the Chobe River
Crossing the Zambezi
From Chobe, we head east, to Victoria Falls.
Few destinations encapsulate the spirit of KAZA quite like Victoria Falls. Known locally as Mosi-oa-Tunya, “The Smoke That Thunders”, the world’s largest sheet of falling water straddles the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe and serves as a focal point for tourism across the region. Beyond the spectacle of the falls themselves, visitors can enjoy river cruises, wildlife experiences, adventure activities and cultural encounters that support thousands of livelihoods on both sides of the border. As one of Africa’s most recognisable travel destinations, Victoria Falls plays a vital role in attracting visitors whose spending helps sustain conservation efforts and community development throughout the wider KAZA landscape.
We cross the Victoria Falls Bridge, which spans the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia at one of Africa’s most iconic natural landmarks.
Victoria Falls Bridge between Zimbabwe and Zambia
A few hours beyond the border, lies Livingstone. While many visitors know Livingstone as the gateway to Victoria Falls, the town has evolved into one of southern Africa’s most versatile safari hubs. Situated on the banks of the Zambezi River and surrounded by wildlife-rich landscapes, Livingstone offers easy access to game drives in Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, river safaris, birding excursions and conservation-focused experiences. Its strategic location within the wider KAZA region also makes it an ideal base from which to explore neighbouring Botswana, Namibia and Zimbabwe, allowing travellers to combine iconic attractions with meaningful encounters that highlight the region’s conservation and community initiatives.
On the outskirts of Livingstone in southern Zambia, lies the suburb of Dambwa. Built along a traditional elephant corridor leading up from the nearby Zambezi River, Dambwa provides a vivid example of the challenges that accompany growing human populations in wildlife landscapes.
Here we meet birding guides Gift Ng’andu and Mukumbuta Akayamborwa. They explain how elephants routinely pass through the streets of this expanding settlement, helping themselves to the mango trees that fill household gardens. The result is predictable: conflict between people and wildlife. Gift and Muku are helping to bridge that divide.
Through a WhatsApp-based early warning network, residents can alert them whenever elephants enter the area. The guides then assist in safely encouraging the animals to continue on their way. During peak periods, Gift says, they may receive as many as 40 calls in a single night.
It is a practical, locally driven response to one of conservation’s most pressing challenges. We also visit the Victoria Falls Wildlife Trust, where conservation science supports wildlife management across the broader KAZA landscape, providing veterinary expertise, research and monitoring that benefit both wildlife and people.
Inside Victoria Falls Wildlife Trust’s forensic laboratory
Communities at the centre
Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park lies only a few kilometres back towards Livingstone, but our focus shifts instead to the remarkable Tukongote Community Project established along this stretch of the Zambezi.
A school, extensive organic gardens and a daily feeding scheme – all supported through tourism revenue – are quietly transforming lives. These are not abstract development interventions. They are practical systems supporting education, nutrition and long-term opportunity.
Organic gardens serve the Tukongote Community
I ask two women preparing lunch for the children whether neighbouring communities feel envious of what has been achieved here. They shake their heads. “No,” they reply. “They try to make their schools better.”
Conversations like these reveal the deeper layer of this journey – how tourism, when it works, extends beyond wildlife viewing to support communities, and in doing so, strengthens the very foundations of conservation across the KAZA landscape.
Many would argue that among the greatest privileges of safari – alongside the landscapes and wildlife – are the human connections and life lessons gathered along the way. Such conversations, and the stories they reveal about tourism’s role in conservation, are found throughout this vast transboundary region.
If safari is a train station, then the Kavango-Zambezi initiative is the platform from which countless journeys depart. And as we step off, we realise this journey has traced not merely destinations, but connections – across countries, ecosystems and communities. For the traveller, KAZA offers something increasingly rare: a safari that is not confined to a single park or even a single country, but unfolds across an entire living landscape.
From the flooded plains of Namibia’s Zambezi Region to the wildlife-rich banks of Chobe, from elephant corridors in Livingstone to the spray and thunder of Victoria Falls, each stop reveals a different facet of one of Africa’s last great connected wilderness systems.
It is a safari defined not only by what you see, but by how those experiences connect – wildlife, people and place – leaving you with the sense that you have travelled through something far larger, and far more meaningful, than a destination.
As the journey draws to a close, what lingers is not a single wildlife sighting or destination, but an appreciation for the connections that bind this remarkable landscape together. Across rivers, borders and ecosystems, KAZA demonstrates that conservation is most effective when wildlife can move freely, communities benefit from tourism, and travellers become part of a larger story. In an increasingly fragmented world, the region offers a compelling vision of what is possible when nations, people and nature work together to protect a shared wilderness for generations to come.
Boating on the Zambezi River in Livingstone
About Angus Begg
Angus’ journey as a traveller began as a journalist, covering pivotal moments in South African history, from Nelson Mandela’s release to the country’s first democratic elections.
Over the years, he has transitioned his passion for storytelling into the realms of photography, videography, and safari guiding, weaving tales of landscapes, wildlife, and people along the way.
Whether crafting a documentary, curating a safari itinerary, freezing a moment through the lens or writing copy for a client, his mission remains the same: to share a destination’s soul with those of curious disposition, and to facilitate engagement with real people and their stories.
Resources
Victoria Falls is one of Africa’s most popular tourist destinations – for good reason. Here’s our ultimate Victoria Falls to-do list: Things to do in Victoria Falls
Victoria Falls, the smoke that thunders, is the world’s largest waterfall: a breathtaking African safari destination of myth, magic & romance. Here’s our ultimate Vic Falls guide.
KAZA elephants – new analysis adds vital details: An analysis of elephant population trends in KAZA shows a worrying increase in poaching, slowed population growth, negative population trends outside of protected areas, and the need for more accurate information to combat threats
Africa’s 11 canids range from painted wolves to tiny desert foxes.
Canids evolved as endurance hunters before spreading into Africa from Asia.
African painted wolves are cooperative hunters facing severe conservation threats.
Ethiopian wolves survive only in isolated high-altitude Ethiopian populations.
Foxes and jackals thrive through adaptability across Africa’s diverse habitats.
Want to see some of Africa’s canids on safari? We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or let us build one just for you.
Today, 11 African canids, from excitable African painted wolves and shrewd jackals to the tiny fox species, hunt the continent’s desert, alpine grassland, savanna and woodland.
Some 40 million years ago, the first identifiable canid (dog) species, Prohesperocyon wilsoni, arose in what is now Texas. The fossilised remains were classified as Canid partially because of the absent, upper third molars and an enlarged bulla (a hollow structure in the ear). As canids diversified across North America, evolution favoured them with several cursorial adaptations including long limbs and lightweight bodies. They were built to run from the start – a family trait that served them well and has survived in most species. When cooling climates exposed the Bering land bridge, canid ancestors raced, trotted, and slunk across to spread through Asia, Europe and eventually Africa.
Black-backed jackal fighting off vultures at a kill
African painted wolf (Lycaon pictus)
The most well-known African canid, African painted wolves (wild dogs), are the third-largest extant canid in the world and the largest in Africa. They are coursing, cooperative hunters, with lithe, athletic bodies built for speed and stamina. Their frenetic hunting style exploits panic and confusion, creating fast-paced, exhilarating sightings for those fortunate enough to encounter a pack on the move.
Wild dogs in the Lower Zambezi Region
African painted wolves live in tight-knit packs, and there is little so heart-warming as watching pack members affectionately reaffirming their bonds. In social situations, the intimate relationships are expressed in joyful greeting ceremonies and play sessions, accompanied by an endearing array of squeaks, yips and whines. The alpha pair typically monopolises breeding, while the rest of the pack devote their attentions to feeding and caring for both the mother and her pups during the denning period.
They are the only member of the Lycaon genus and the only canid to have four toes on the front foot (they lack a dewclaw). Human persecution, habitat loss and fragmentation, and disease have all played a role in devastating African painted wolf populations. They are currently listed as “Endangered” on the IUCN Red List.
Today, roughly 6,600 adult and yearling African painted wolves survive across 39 subpopulations, with only about 1,400 mature breeding individuals contributing to future generations.
Black-backed and side-striped jackals (Canis mesomelas and Canis adustus)
It is bewildering that the average safari-goer dismisses jackals, intent rather on chasing down traditionally iconic creatures. This is unfortunate because jackals are attractive and adventurous little predators in their own right. Both species are consummate survivors with an indiscriminate palate and a boldness that belies their slender physiques. Jackals are opportunistic omnivores that can quickly and efficiently dispatch invertebrates, birds, reptiles, or even small antelope, but will also readily wolf down fallen fruit or seeds. Furthermore, any animal that dares to snatch the scraps out from beneath a hungry lion’s nose should be entitled to automatic respect.
Jackals are monogamous and territorial, though they may gather in larger numbers when there is a more substantial carcass. Grown offspring from the previous year’s litter occasionally stay and help their parents with subsequent pups – before dispersing. Interestingly, though the black-backed jackal is the smaller of the two, where black-backed and side-striped jackals do occur in the same place, the black-backed tends to dominate interactions.
Side-striped jackalBlack-backed jackal
African golden wolf (Canis lupaster)
The African golden wolf is notable mainly for the insights it has provided researchers of African canid evolution. Until recently, it was classified as an African variant of the golden jackal, which is widespread throughout the Middle East and Asia. Though scientists had long argued for a distinction between the two species, genetic analyses confirmed that the African golden wolf is a distinct species and is more closely related to grey wolves, Ethiopian wolves and coyotes than to the Eurasian golden jackal.
Slightly larger than the two jackal species, African golden wolves can catch and kill prey nearly three times their own mass. This is unusual however, and golden wolves tend to confine themselves to smaller prey species such as rodents, birds, lizards, snakes, and insects.
The wolf-like ancient Egyptian deities such as Anubis (the god of death) may have been based on African golden wolves.
African golden wolf
Ethiopian wolf (Canis simensis)
The Ethiopian wolf has the lamentable honour of being the rarest carnivore in Africa. Recent estimates from the Ethiopian Wolf Conservation Programme indicate approximately 454 adult Ethiopian wolves in 99 packs across six isolated populations in the Ethiopian Highlands. The species us listed as Endangered on the IUCN Red List.
They are endemic to the Ethiopian Highlands and found at altitudes over 3,000m above sea level, with more than half found in the Bale Mountains, and they can also be seen in the Simien Mountains. The remaining five populations are isolated and fragmented; threatened by habitat degradation, conflict with humans and diseases carried by feral domestic dogs.
Ethiopian wolves in the Bale Mountains
While most African canid species are fairly generalist feeders, these beautiful, russet-coated Simien wolves are particularly adept at hunting Afroalpine rodents, especially big-headed mole-rats. The wolves wait patiently until a rodent emerges from its underground burrow before pouncing and digging frantically at the entrance. Interestingly, some wolves form temporary associations with geladas, and research indicates that their hunting efforts are more successful when they associate with these foraging troops. The wolves do not attempt to hunt the geladas, and the primates appear unconcerned by the canids’ presence.
In 2024, researchers documented Ethiopian wolves feeding on nectar from red-hot poker flowers, potentially making them the first large carnivore known to act as a pollinator.
While Ethiopian wolves tend to be solitary hunters, they live in small packs with an established hierarchy and one breeding female, who, when she dies, is usually replaced by one of her daughters.
Ethiopian or Simien wolf
Bat-eared fox (Otocyon megalotis)
These little African canids are the world’s most specialised insect-eating canids and, despite their common name, are not true foxes (genus Vulpes). Instead, they are the only Otocyon member, set apart by their unusual dentition adapted for demolishing invertebrates. They have up to 50 teeth (most canids have around 42), with reduced shearing surfaces on the molars and unique morphological adaptations which allow for extremely rapid chewing. The majority of their prey consists of harvester termites.
Bat eared fox and kit, Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
Bat-eared foxes are highly social and live in mated pairs or small family groups that forage, play and rest together. Somewhat unusually, the males take on the majority of caretaking activities where the young are concerned.
They are easily identified by their enormous ears (second only to the fennec fox below), and their scientific name refers specifically to this characteristic: “mega” meaning large and “otus” meaning ear. Serengeti National Park, Samara Private Game Reserve, Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and Central Kalahari Game Reserve all offer good opportunities to see bat-eared foxes while on safari.
Bat-eared fox, Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
Cape fox (Vulpes chama)
The only true fox species in sub-Saharan Africa, the delicate Cape fox prefers semi-arid and arid habitats. In true fox fashion, they are omnivores with a taste for everything from small mammals to seeds and fruit. Though common throughout most of Southern Africa, Cape foxes are nocturnal and seldom seen except in certain reserves where they have become habituated to people.
Cape fox
Though they appear to form monogamous bonds, Cape foxes prefer to forage alone, and the male and female usually only associate during the breeding season. When the kits are born in underground burrows, the male will care for and defend both the mother and young for the first few weeks.
The fennec fox is the smallest canid species on the planet, weighing less than 2kg. They are perfectly adapted for the aridity and blistering temperatures of their Sahara Desert habitat. Most noticeably, their enormous ears, proportionately the largest of any canid species in the world, help dissipate heat – not unlike the ears of an elephant.
Fennec fox in the Sahara Desert, Tunisia
Their tiny paws are covered in dense fur to protect against extreme heat and maintain traction on the desert sands. Fennec foxes’ most astonishing achievement is the ability to pant at 690 breaths per minute (over ten breaths per second!) without the expected adverse effects of hyperventilation.
They forage for insects, reptiles, small mammals and birds at night. Plants supplement the diet and aid with hydration.
The fennec fox’s Disney-like appearance has made it a popular exotic pet, even though it is ill-suited to a domestic existence away from its natural desert habitat. Though they are highly social, little is known about the intricacies of their societies, and most behavioural observations have been gleaned from captive individuals.
Pale fox (Vulpes pallida)
Pale foxes are the least studied of all African canids, and little is known about their day-to-day lives or individual numbers. They inhabit the Sahel region of the African continent (the transition zone between the Sahara Desert and savannahs further south). They are distinguished from the Rüppell’s fox (see below) by the black tip on their tails. Just a fraction smaller than the Cape fox, pale foxes are omnivorous and predominantly nocturnal.
Pale fox in Zakouma National Park
Rüppell’s fox (Vulpes ruepelli)
The Rüppell’s fox is confined to the continent’s northernmost reaches and is distinguished by a white-tipped tail and black markings under the eye. Like all desert-dwelling foxes, they have enormous ears, though not quite to the same degree as the fennec fox. Though the species is widely distributed, there is little available information on Rüppell’s foxes.
Rüppell’s fox
Red fox (Vulpes vulpes)
Typically associated with the countryside and alleys of European cities, few people realise that red foxes also occur in Africa’s northern fringes. This species is largest of the true foxes, though the southern grey desert subspecies is significantly smaller and less brightly coloured than its European counterparts. These animals are not as well adapted to truly arid areas as other desert foxes and tend to be more common around rivers and oases where there is better access to water.
Red fox (this is an individual photographed in Europe. In Africa, the red fox tends to be much smaller and greyer than in Europe.)
Barking up the family tree
As the canid ancestors loped their way across Asia and into Africa, they faced competition from the two other hyper-carnivorous predator families: the Felidae (cats) and the Hyaenidae (hyenas). For all predators, the competitive landscape was changing as prey species evolved to run faster through increasingly open habitats. This evolutionary arms race was to shape all three families. The felids came to rely almost exclusively on stealth and ambush, while the dog-like hyenas (distinct from their bone-crunching relatives) all but disappeared (with one exception).
And African canids? They took on the various forms described above – most are lightweight and fleet of foot and all are bright-eyed, intelligent, and adaptable.
[Editorial note: Blanford’s fox (Vulpes cana) has been recorded on the Sinai Peninsula in Egypt. There is only one record of an individual collected west of the Suez Canal. While it is possible there are resident populations in the African portions of Egypt, this is unconfirmed, and we have thus omitted this animal from our list.]
Further reading
Longing to see African wild dogs? Here are the six best spots to see painted wolves in Africa – for your next safari with us. Here are the 6 top places to see painted wolves on safari.
Jackals are the ultimate survivors of the African bushveld. These social & intelligent canids are expert opportunists and masterful lurkers. Read more about jackals here.
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
Flying mice
One of my favourite bushveld experiences is staking out dry-season waterholes in the arid Kalahari. The endless traffic of thirsty mammals aside, it’s the avian action that I seek.
This time last year, I was in Botswana’s Central Kalahari Game Reserve, checking out the fabulous Dinaka Lodge for our safari guests. After my fair share of lions, cheetahs and a host of desert-adapted species such as brown hyenas, ground squirrels, oryxes, and springboks, I needed some time out from game drives.
There is a busy waterhole in front of the lodge, and after watching countless swarms of red-billed queleas descend to drink, like flying mice, often harassed by lanner falcons, shikras and other deadly missiles, I decided to get some video footage. I set up my phone on a stand at the water’s edge, hit start, and retired to my room for a nap. Looking closely at the resulting footage, I see that the flock included many other species, such as shaft-tailed whydahs and fawn-coloured larks. Click the link below to enjoy the spectacle and hear more from me about this epic safari experience. Pour a mug of coffee, or something stronger, and prepare yourself for four minutes of awesomeness (turn up the sound).
Why would a chimpanzee spend more than a decade throwing rocks at the same tree? That’s the question researchers are trying to answer in the remote forests of Guinea-Bissau, where certain male chimpanzees repeatedly return to specific trees to hurl stones, pant-hoot and drum on buttress roots. The behaviour is exceptionally rare, observed in only a handful of chimpanzee communities, and may represent a form of communication, territorial marking or even something approaching symbolism. Intriguingly, some of these “stone-throwing sites” have remained active for more than ten years.
It feels fitting to reflect on nature’s capacity to surprise this week, as we announce the winners of Photographer of the Year 2026. Over 12 weeks, we received 6,084 entries from photographers around the world, selecting just 285 images for our weekly galleries. Again and again, photographers captured moments that challenged expectations: an Ethiopian wolf feeding from wildflowers, a mountain gorilla high in the rainforest canopy, an aardvark emerging into the last light of day, and dramatic encounters that unfolded in fractions of a second. This year’s competition became a celebration of revelation. Africa still rewards patience with the extraordinary. Our winners will soon embark on an Africa Geographic safari to Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda, where chimpanzee trekking through one of Africa’s most biodiverse forests awaits. See more on the prize in the video at the end of this newsletter.
Congratulations to all of our winners and thank you to all the incredible photographers who entered!
DID YOU KNOW?
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WE HAVE A WINNER
WINNING PHOTOS
The wait is over! Announcing the winner, runners-up and highly commended photos from Photographer of the Year 2026!
Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas
Maasai Mara Explorer – 11 days
Two faces of the Maasai Mara. This safari explores two distinct sides of the Maasai Mara, from the wild solitude of the Sand River in the south to the Mara River crossing drama of the central reserve. Expect authentic, owner-run lodges, exceptional guiding, discreet service and superb meals as you experience two unforgettable aspects of this iconic ecosystem.
Gorilla trekking in Bwindi, Uganda – 6 days
A bucket-list pilgrimage to Uganda’s mountain gorillas. Trek mountain gorillas in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, the birthplace of gorilla trekking and one of the world’s most exhilarating wildlife experiences. Explore Bwindi’s jungle paradise, spend time with the Batwa people, search for Queen Elizabeth National Park’s tree-climbing lions and discover the rich biodiversity of Entebbe Botanical Gardens.
As we reveal the winners of Photographer of the Year 2026, take a moment to revisit the adventure that awaits them. This year’s winners will journey to Rwanda’s spectacular Nyungwe National Park – one of Africa’s oldest and most biodiverse rainforests. Their prize includes chimpanzee trekking, encounters with Rwenzori pied colobus monkeys, forest hikes to hidden waterfalls, walks along Nyungwe’s famous canopy walkway, and the thrill of soaring above the treetops on one of Africa’s longest ziplines. Hosted at the beautiful Munazi Lodge and made possible by our partners African Parks and Ukuri, this unforgettable safari is a celebration of Africa’s wild places and the photographers who bring them to life through their images. (04:37) Watch here
We are proud to announce the winners of Photographer of the Year 2026. This year, a theme emerged as if orchestrated by nature itself – revelation. Again and again, our photographers captured moments that challenged expectations: an Ethiopian wolf feeding from wildflowers, an aardvark emerging into the last light of day, a mountain gorilla high in the rainforest canopy, and a leaf-tailed gecko hidden in plain sight. Photographers documented the drama and unpredictability of life in the wild, from a leopard cub’s final stand against a pride of lions to a jackal and vulture locked in battle over a meal. Africa still has the power to surprise, revealing extraordinary stories to those patient enough to look.
Over the 12 weeks of the competition, we received 6,084 entries, of which we selected 285 in our weekly selections.
Thank you to our generous partners, Ukuri and African Parks, for supporting this celebration of Africa. The overall winner, runners-up and their partners will enjoy an Africa Geographic safari to Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda, staying at the newly built Munazi Lodge, the only lodge inside the park. Their adventure will include chimpanzee trekking, canopy walks high above the forest floor, waterfall hikes and encounters with black-and-white colobus monkeys in one of Africa’s most biodiverse montane forests. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2026 prizes here.
A note from our CEO
These photographs are far more than beautiful images. They are acts of patience, devotion and wonder that reflect a fierce respect and unmatched artistry. Again and again, the photographers behind these images have shown us Africa not as a destination, but as a living, breathing masterpiece.
To every photographer who entered: thank you. For the early mornings, the sleepless nights, the long journeys, the uncomfortable hides, the dust, the rain, and the uncertainty. For caring enough to look deeper, to wait longer, and to share what you found.
In a digital world increasingly flooded by the synthetic wave of AI-generated slop, hollow fabrications that dominate our screens, fool the masses, and distort biological reality, your work is a sanctuary. Thank you for refusing to become slaves to the algorithm. For rejecting the cheap distractions of fake perfection that disconnect us from the most vital thing we have: the natural world. By staying true to your lens, you have stayed true to the authentic, unvarnished soul of Africa.
As judges, we have marvelled, debated and been inspired. As lovers of Africa, we are simply grateful. Grateful that so many talented storytellers continue to reveal the soul of this continent through their lenses, and generous enough to share that gift with all of us.
Some photographs stop you in your tracks, while others challenge what you believe is possible. This image does both.
At first glance, the scene appears almost unreal. The dust, the tangle of bodies, the desperate struggle at its centre – it resembles a dark allegory rather than a wildlife photograph. Yet the closer one looks, the more remarkable it becomes. Every subject remains legible within the chaos. The eye moves from lion to leopard cub, from swirling dust to flailing limbs, discovering new details with each viewing. Maintaining focus, composition and exposure during a moment unfolding at such speed is an extraordinary achievement.
Beyond its technical excellence, the image forces us to confront one of nature’s most uncomfortable realities. The systematic elimination of future competitors is less often witnessed and even more rarely photographed. The emotional weight of the scene is impossible to ignore. The leopard cub’s final act of defiance transforms the photograph from a record of behaviour into a story of courage against overwhelming odds. What elevates this image above all others is its authenticity. Nothing here is embellished or staged. It is profoundly affecting. In an era where extraordinary images are often met with scepticism, reality can still surpass imagination. An exceptional and unforgettable piece of wildlife storytelling.
Given the extraordinary nature of the scene, the image, along with a sequence of photographs taken immediately before and after the encounter, was carefully reviewed and authenticated by our judges. It is not AI-generated and has not been manipulated using AI processes. The photograph accurately represents the original event: nature can still produce moments more astonishing than fiction.
Photo and photographer details – read more
Petr says: “An ordinary morning at the end of the dry season on the Chobe River quickly turned into one of the most dramatic wildlife encounters I have witnessed.
A pride of lionesses with cubs was resting on a rise. They had not made a kill for three days and were carefully watching the surrounding area. About 300 metres away, two leopard cubs, approximately five months old, emerged from the bush near the road. They drank quickly before disappearing back into the thicket. Unfortunately, one of the lionesses noticed them and immediately charged.
The cubs vanished into dense cover, but the entire pride followed. We slowly drove along the road towards the centre of the action. Suddenly, from a shrub only a few metres from our vehicle, we heard roaring, growling and then a piercing scream. The lionesses had found one of the cubs.
In the dust stirred up by the struggle, the leopard cub fought against overwhelming odds. One of the lionesses even allowed a lion cub to join the attack. Unable to stand properly, the leopard cub still managed to bite the young lion. Moments later, one of the lionesses ended the confrontation. The pride moved away. The elimination of competition between apex predators was complete. What remained was the lifeless body of the leopard cub. I tell myself in vain: But this is the law of nature.”
About photographer Petr Slavík
Wildlife photographer Petr Slavík was born in Mělník, Czech Republic. He is the winner of several international wildlife photography awards, including Photographer of the Year in the Czech Nature Photo competition.
Petr is the author of the photographic books Wild Hearts and Close Encounters, co-author of Wild Planet, and creator and producer of the documentary trilogy In the Track of the Predator, broadcast on Prima Zoom television. He also leads photographic expeditions to some of the world’s most remote wilderness areas and serves as a Nikon ambassador in the Czech Republic. Instagram: petrslavikphoto
This photograph reveals something deeply personal while remaining profoundly respectful. The framing is exceptional. By positioning the viewer between the cow’s legs, Metlha transforms a farming scene into something far more immersive. The composition draws us into the centre of the moment while preserving the dignity of those within it. Every element feels deliberate: the father seated behind, the child receiving the milk, and the natural frame created by the cow. The monochrome treatment strips away distraction, allowing gesture, expression and symbolism to take centre stage.
More than documenting an event, the photo preserves a tradition. The act itself is simple, but it carries deep meaning: a blessing for prosperity, health and continuity. The photograph speaks of family, but also of heritage and the passing of knowledge from one generation to the next. Powerful cultural photographs often rely on trust. This image could only have been made because the photographer was accepted into the space and recognised the significance of what was unfolding before him. The result is an honest and beautifully observed portrait of Setswana life.
Photo and photographer details – read more
Metlha says: “I took this photograph in a village about five kilometres from Botswana’s capital city while on assignment for a news agency, documenting how climate change was affecting farmers.
Early one morning, I joined a family in their kraal. As they milked their cattle, they shared stories about how changing weather patterns were affecting their livelihoods. As the conversation flowed, the family became comfortable with my presence and I was no longer seen as an outsider. While photographing the morning routine, an unexpected moment unfolded. The father called his son over and, instead of handing him the milking duties, sat the boy on his lap and directed fresh milk straight from the cow into his mouth. With my Canon EOS 5D Mark III and Canon EF 24–105mm lens, I quickly moved to the opposite side of the cow to create a stronger composition and captured a moment I never expected.
Later, he explained that some people traditionally believed this act was a blessing, wishing children prosperity and a future filled with cattle. I later converted the image to black and white to reflect a tradition rooted in the past.”
About photographer Metlha Ngubevana
Metlha Ngubevana is a Botswana-based wildlife photographer and visual storyteller who uses photography to advocate for wildlife conservation and celebrate Africa’s rich cultural heritage. He began his career as a photojournalist with Botswana’s state-owned newspaper before joining Press Photo, one of the country’s leading news agencies. Through journalism, he developed a passion for storytelling and increasingly focused on wildlife, conservation, climate change and culture.
His work has been published internationally through Xinhua News Agency, bringing attention to African wildlife, conservation initiatives and cultural traditions. Today, Metlha works as a photographic guide in Chobe, where he continues to create imagery that connects people with nature and encourages a deeper appreciation for conservation.
Few photographs combine scientific significance, conservation value and visual impact as successfully as this one. At first glance, the image appears beautifully simple: an Ethiopian wolf feeding among vivid red-hot poker flowers in the Afroalpine highlands. But the longer one looks, the more extraordinary the scene becomes. The rich reds of the blooms contrast strikingly with the wolf’s soft coat, while the clean composition isolates a behaviour that until recently was completely unknown to science.
The image documents one of the most remarkable natural history discoveries of recent years. Scientists only recently confirmed that Ethiopian wolves feed on nectar and may transfer pollen between flowers as they forage — making them the first known large carnivores documented acting as pollinators. Amit has transformed a scientific observation into a compelling visual story, allowing viewers to immediately grasp the significance of this behaviour. The photograph also carries considerable conservation weight. The Ethiopian wolf is Africa’s most threatened carnivore, with fewer than 500 individuals remaining in the wild. To photograph such a rare species engaged in newly documented behaviour is an extraordinary achievement. Even among the continent’s known wildlife, there are still stories waiting to be discovered.
Photo and photographer details – read more
Amit says: “Watching and photographing an Ethiopian wolf licking the bright red flowers while unknowingly serving as a pollinator was one of the most surprising moments I have experienced in the field. At first, I was not sure what I was seeing. The wolf approached the flowers calmly and focused on feeding from the blooms scattered across the Afroalpine grassland. As I realised what was happening, I noticed pollen collecting on its muzzle as it moved from flower to flower. Through my camera, I was witnessing a behaviour that had only recently been recognised by science.
This unique behaviour was only recently discovered and documented for the first time. In doing so, the wolves act as pollinators. As they forage, the wolves’ muzzles become covered in pollen, which they transfer from flower to flower while feeding. Individual wolves have been recorded visiting up to 30 blooms during a single feeding session, with members of different packs using the same resource.”
About photographer Amit Eshel
Growing up in a small community in Israel, Amit Eshel developed a fascination with wildlife long before he picked up a camera. Nature was his playground, and his childhood was spent searching for animals, sketching wildlife and dreaming about encounters in the wild.
After graduating with honours in Illustration, Animation and Graphic Design, Amit combined his artistic background with his passion for animals, initially creating wildlife-inspired jewellery using his photographs as reference material. Over time, photography itself became his primary focus. Today, Amit leads wildlife photography expeditions and works on personal projects in remote locations around the world. His photography combines an artist’s eye for composition with a deep interest in animal behaviour and natural history. In 2018, he made the decision to pursue photography professionally and has since built a career dedicated to documenting remarkable wildlife moments.
Atmosphere drives this image. Suspended dust softens the scene, reducing predator and prey to ghostly figures emerging from the haze. The wild dog stands alert in the foreground while the zebra materialises behind it, creating an unusual moment of visual symmetry between two animals that would normally be cast in opposing roles. The muted palette and layered dust transform a familiar wildlife encounter into something far more contemplative: a study of isolation, uncertainty and survival in the aftermath of pursuit.
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Hannes says: “A lone African wild dog stands alert in the foreground while the rest of the pack moves through a haze of dust behind it. In the background, a solitary zebra watches the scene unfold. The muted tones and dusty conditions create a striking atmosphere, drawing attention to the contrast between predator and prey. Layers of suspended dust add depth to the composition, capturing a quiet moment of vigilance in the Kalahari.”
About photographer Hannes Lochner
Hannes Lochner is a South African wildlife photographer, author and safari guide renowned for his work in the Kalahari. His distinctive style combines dramatic light, atmospheric conditions and behavioural storytelling to create images that reveal the character of Africa’s wild places. Hannes leads photographic safaris across Africa, where he shares his knowledge of wildlife, conservation, and photography with guests from around the world. His work reflects a deep appreciation for nature and a commitment to capturing authentic moments in the field. For the past several years, Hannes and his wife, Noa Koefler, a wildlife videographer, have travelled and worked throughout Africa, continually building a body of work that celebrates the beauty, character, and diversity of the continent’s wildlife. His work has appeared in major international publications and has been recognised in numerous wildlife photography competitions around the world.
The scale of this photograph is astonishing. A predator barely three millimetres long is transformed into the subject of a grand portrait, framed by glowing petals and delicate stamens that resemble flowing fabric. The soft backlighting illuminates both flower and mantis, creating a sense of shelter and vulnerability not often seen in insect photography.
Beyond the beauty of the image lies a testament to patience and fieldcraft. Finding a newly hatched mantis is challenging enough; presenting it with such elegance and intimacy is another achievement entirely.
Photo and photographer details – read more
Hendrik says: “As a macro photographer, I have learned to recognise areas where certain insects are likely to occur. After following what was probably the same female mantis for some time, I discovered an egg case and visited it regularly over a six-week period. This was only the second time I had witnessed common green mantis babies emerging. I was fortunate to spot a few of them as they scattered after hatching. This individual, which was about a day old and only 3mm long, paused among the stamens of a flower early one morning.
To create a greater sense of scale and intimacy, I used a 28mm lens with extension tubes and photographed from a low angle to capture the backlighting and early morning atmosphere. For me, this image best captured the balance between vulnerability and predatory instinct in such a tiny creature.”
About photographer Hendrik Louw
Hendrik Louw has been pursuing photography for more than 27 years, ever since picking up a second-hand camera and joining a photographic club in 1999. While he enjoys many genres of photography, his true passion lies in macro photography, particularly the fascinating world of frogs, mantises and spiders. Hendrik’s work reveals the beauty and complexity of often-overlooked creatures. His images have earned recognition in numerous international photography competitions, and he regularly shares his passion through workshops and photographic congresses. Outside of photography, Hendrik works as an environmental manager and climate change specialist.
Few images convey panic quite as effectively as this one. Backlit spray fills the frame as the baboon charges through the water, pursued by a lioness emerging from the chaos behind it. The silhouettes, illuminated droplets and monochrome treatment reduce the scene to pure movement and tension.
What makes the photograph compelling is knowing that this was only one chapter in a remarkable sequence of events. Devon recognised the moment instantly, reacted decisively and produced an image that captures the drama of the chase at its most intense.
Photo and photographer details – read more
Devon says: “I had been photographing hippos at sunset, hoping to capture a backlit spray image as one surfaced. Suddenly, chaos erupted on the far side of the pool when a large baboon began barking loudly enough to disturb everything around it.
Looking up from my camera, I saw the baboon running for its life with a lioness in pursuit. The baboon plunged into the water, apparently assuming the lioness would not follow. It was right: she turned away moments after this photograph was taken. However, the baboon soon found itself surrounded by hippos standing up in the shallow water around it.
The baboon eventually scrambled back to shore, where the lioness resumed the chase. The entire sequence lasted only seconds. Being able to react, recompose and adjust my settings came from years spent behind a camera, understanding animal behaviour, and, of course, a little bit of luck.”
About photographer Devon Jenkin
Born in Zimbabwe, Devon Jenkin has spent much of his life working in Africa’s wild places as a guide, camp manager and wildlife film crew support specialist. Today he works as a wildlife photographer and photographic guide, sharing his passion for conservation and authentic wildlife experiences through photography and small-group safaris.
This is a photograph built on patience, persistence and good fortune. The helmet vanga is one of Madagascar’s most sought-after endemic birds, rarely seen and even more rarely photographed at its nest. To find a helmet vanga is a privilege; to follow it to an active nest is an extraordinary stroke of luck. The vivid blue bill and striking eye immediately draw attention, while the fork of the tree creates a natural frame around the bird and her eggs. Beyond its visual appeal, the image documents a fleeting and privileged encounter with one of Madagascar’s most remarkable species.
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Heste says: “To see the iconic helmet vanga (Euryceros prevostii), it is essential to have a local guide. The dense rainforests on the steep slopes of Marojejy hide some very special animals. I was fortunate to be guided by Volamamy Richelin from the nearby village of Manantenina. Our main objective was to find the elusive silky sifaka. While following a group of sifakas, Richelin spotted a helmet vanga. We followed the bird and were fortunate enough to watch her fly to a nest containing two eggs. Richelin worked closely with two local trekkers from the village, whose knowledge and experience helped us find these remarkable animals in very challenging conditions.”
About photographer Heste de Beer
Heste de Beer is a wildlife photographer driven by a passion for finding unusual and special animals in remote places. While photography is an important part of the experience, her primary goal is to spend time observing wildlife and documenting their daily activities and interactions. Through her images, she hopes to share the beauty of these encounters with others.
Aardvarks are among Africa’s most elusive mammals, making any meaningful sighting memorable. To photograph one in warm afternoon light, fully exposed and going about its business before darkness has fallen, is rare. The rich golden tones, clean composition and alert posture of the aardvark combine to create a portrait that feels both intimate and celebratory, shining a spotlight on a species few people ever have the privilege of seeing.
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Laura says: “An aardvark is one of the rarest African mammals to find, let alone photograph, and seeing one has long been a dream of mine. As a South African, I had grown up with only fleeting glimpses of this fascinating creature, usually at night and only for a few moments.
Aardvarks are nocturnal and typically emerge under the cover of darkness to feed on ants and termites. However, they are sensitive to cold and need to feed in bursts, returning to their burrows to digest and keep warm. A sudden cold snap in the central Kalahari caused temperatures to drop dramatically, limiting the amount of time this aardvark could spend feeding at night.
As it was shortly after a full moon, there was only a brief period of darkness before moonlight illuminated the landscape. Extending its feeding period into the early evening became worthwhile, creating an exceptionally unusual opportunity to observe an aardvark at sunset. For me, it was a once-in-a-lifetime experience to watch this individual digging, feeding and moving about completely relaxed and indifferent to our presence. It also offered a chance to appreciate the unique features of one of Africa’s most elusive mammals in beautiful natural light.”
About photographer Laura Dyer
Laura Dyer is a South African wildlife photographer, photographic guide and safari leader. She leads small-group and bespoke safaris throughout Africa and is passionate about inspiring a love of the natural world through photography. Alongside guiding and teaching photography, Laura works with lodges, conservation organisations and filmmakers to help raise awareness of wildlife and conservation issues across the continent.
This image transforms a familiar predator-prey scene into something almost dreamlike. Backlighting, dust and shadow combine to create a striking silhouette, while the wild dog’s projected shadow adds an unexpected layer of visual intrigue. The photograph distils the energy and chaos of a feeding frenzy into a single, elegant frame where shape and atmosphere become the dominant storytelling tools.
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Greg says: “The day’s excitement seemed over. We were returning to camp at Chitake Springs after an afternoon game drive and dusk was settling over the dry riverbed. Suddenly, a pack of African wild dogs burst into camp and brought down an impala a short distance from where we were standing. What followed was one of the most exhilarating wildlife photography experiences of my life. The dogs fed frantically in the deep, dry sand, throwing vast clouds of dust into the still evening air.
I positioned myself at eye level and chose to shoot directly into the light. Rather than revealing detail, the backlighting transformed one of the dogs into a silhouette. The dust became an essential part of the image, acting like a natural screen and revealing the shadow of my subject behind it. For a brief moment, the combination of fading light, swirling dust and the intensity of the feeding created a scene unlike anything I had witnessed before.”
About photographer Greg du Toit
Based in Hoedspruit, South Africa, Greg du Toit is a fine-art wildlife photographer whose work is created entirely through authentic encounters in Africa’s wildest spaces. Describing himself as an old-school wildlife photographer, Greg uses light as his creative tool, simplifying and distilling natural scenes to create images that connect viewers with the essence of Africa’s wilderness.
Conflict unfolds in an instant, and Kevin has captured it at precisely the right moment. The jackal’s expression, the spread wings of the vulture and the extended talons create a frame filled with tension and movement. Scavengers are often overlooked in wildlife photography, yet this image highlights the fierce competition that surrounds every feeding opportunity and the risks animals take to secure a meal.
Photo and photographer details – read more
Kevin says: “I often search for interactions between jackals and other predators. I find jackals fascinating: they are clever, quick and remarkably brave. On this occasion, an old elephant carcass had attracted a variety of predators and scavengers. The interactions between the jackals and vultures were particularly intense and highly photogenic. The jackal in this image was doing everything it could to prevent the vultures from feeding.
At one point, the jackal grabbed a vulture by the chest and ended up with a mouthful of feathers. The vulture immediately retaliated, grabbing the jackal’s face with its talons and possibly injuring its eye. Fortunately, I had already set my camera for a fast shutter speed, allowing me to capture the action sharply at the decisive moment.”
About photographer Kevin Dooley
Kevin Dooley’s love for adventure and wild places began in childhood and eventually led him into a career combining portrait and wildlife photography. Today, Kevin and his wife Tricia operate a safari and photographic adventure company. As a certified African ranger and wildlife guide, he is passionate about sharing wildlife experiences and encouraging others to appreciate and care for the natural world.
This image succeeds because it reveals a landscape in an entirely unexpected way. Rising through a blanket of mist, the dark monoliths resemble islands adrift in an ocean of cloud. The photograph balances scale, atmosphere and simplicity beautifully, transforming one of Angola’s most extraordinary geological formations into a scene that feels almost surreal. It is a reminder that Africa still holds landscapes capable of surprising even the most experienced travellers.
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Cliff says: “We were camped at the base of the Black Stones in Pungo Andongo, central Angola. These massive rock formations have stood here for hundreds of millions of years and have witnessed centuries of history.
At 5am, however, my focus was entirely on the weather. A thick mist had settled across the Malanje Plateau and visibility was almost non-existent. I launched my drone to see whether there was anything above the cloud layer. As soon as the drone broke through the mist, the landscape was transformed. The surrounding savanna disappeared beneath a blanket of white, leaving only the dark peaks rising through the fog like islands in a sea.
It was one of those rare moments where a familiar landscape becomes something completely different, revealing a perspective that would otherwise remain hidden.”
About photographer Cliff Fawcett
Cliff Fawcett is an Royal Photographic Society-accredited photographer whose work explores the psychology of photography and why certain images resonate so strongly with viewers.
Combining a background in human behaviour with a passion for exploration, Cliff has spent the past several years travelling across continents in his 1997 Land Rover Defender, documenting remote landscapes and testing visual storytelling in some of the world’s most challenging environments.
This image offers a refreshing perspective on one of Africa’s most photographed species. Rather than focusing on power or dominance, Mark presents the gorilla as part of its rainforest environment, surrounded by layers of moss, mist and foliage. The soft palette and careful framing create a sense of calm, while the elevated position of the gorilla reveals a behaviour and viewpoint less commonly seen by photographers.
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Mark says: “This photograph was taken in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park during a personal photographic project focused on mountain gorillas in the canopy. Most mountain gorilla photography naturally happens on the forest floor, where families feed, rest and move through dense vegetation. On this occasion, I hoped to photograph a large male elevated in the trees and framed by the rainforest itself.
After a demanding climb through steep, wet terrain, I was able to position myself closer to eye level with this gorilla as he fed calmly among moss-covered branches. The forest was cold, misty and beautifully still. Soft light filtered through the canopy, creating depth and helping separate him from the distant trees.
What makes this image meaningful to me is the quietness of the moment. Mountain gorillas are often photographed for their strength and dominance, yet here the story felt very different. He was balanced, composed and completely at home in the canopy. I chose not to frame the image too tightly because I wanted the surrounding forest to be part of the story.”
About photographer Mark Fernley
Mark Fernley is a British wildlife photographer, photo safari host and co-founder of Untamed Photo Safaris. His work focuses on ethical wildlife photography, animal behaviour and creating images that place wildlife within the atmosphere of their natural environment. Together with his wife, Jaren Fernley, he leads specialist photographic safaris across Africa, helping photographers create meaningful encounters and compelling wildlife images.
It takes skill to capture a moment like this in the chaos of the waterhole. Timing is everything in action photography, and this image captures the decisive fraction of a second when predator and prey narrowly miss each other. The finch erupts from the water in a spray of droplets while the jackal’s jaws snap shut just behind it. The fleeing birds in the background and the painterly quality of the light add depth and drama to an already extraordinary moment.
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Hannes says: “The harsh conditions of the Kalahari dry season draw wildlife of every size to the precious waters of a shrinking waterhole. As a female red-headed finch rose from the water’s edge, droplets scattering into the air around her, a black-backed jackal launched itself forward in a sudden burst of speed.
The photograph captures one of the countless dramas that unfold around scarce water sources in the Kalahari. Every visit carries both opportunity and risk, and even the smallest creatures must remain constantly alert. In this instance, agility and timing prevailed, and the female finch lived to drink another day.”
About photographer Hannes Lochner
Hannes Lochner is a South African wildlife photographer, author and safari guide renowned for his work in the Kalahari. His distinctive style combines dramatic light, atmospheric conditions and behavioural storytelling to create images that reveal the character of Africa’s wild places. Hannes leads photographic safaris across Africa, where he shares his knowledge of wildlife, conservation, and photography with guests from around the world. His work reflects a deep appreciation for nature and a commitment to capturing authentic moments in the field. For the past several years, Hannes and his wife, Noa Koefler, a wildlife videographer, have travelled and worked throughout Africa, continually building a body of work that celebrates the beauty, character, and diversity of the continent’s wildlife. His work has appeared in major international publications and has been recognised in numerous wildlife photography competitions around the world.
What a delightful encounter with one of Madagascar’s most remarkable reptiles. Curled up, the leaf-tailed gecko appears perfectly at home, its camouflage so effective that it can easily be overlooked. The image captures a charming moment with a species that is both difficult to find and challenging to photograph, making the guide’s sharp eye and the photographer’s careful composition all the more impressive.
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Lynn says: “Only at my guide’s insistence did I look more carefully and realise that it was not a plant but a leaf-tailed gecko. I had been completely misled by the astonishing camouflage of this animal. The shape of the gecko’s head echoed that of its tail, which was held above its body like a branch. The texture of its skin resembled weathered foliage, making it difficult to separate the animal from its surroundings.
What fascinated me most was how my brain kept switching between seeing a plant and seeing an animal, trying to determine where one ended and the other began. I was drawn to the simplicity of the scene and the elegance of an animal so perfectly adapted to its habitat. The image invites viewers to slow down, look again and discover something they may not have noticed at first glance.”
About photographer Lynn Rosenzweig
Born in South Africa and now based in the United States, Lynn Rosenzweig has been passionate about photography since receiving her first film camera at the age of 17. Her work is driven by a fascination with animal behaviour, wildlife interactions and the stories that emerge through careful observation. Through decades of travel and exploration, she has documented wildlife, landscapes and cultures around the world, always seeking moments that reveal something deeper about the natural world.
We had a lot of entries of this magic moment from Jens, and it was very difficult to choose our favourite as they were all so magnificent. But this incredibly unique image of the frog hiding in the sea of butterflies just shows how rewarding it can be when patience pays off. The young African bullfrog becomes both hidden and celebrated within the frame. The rich colours, unusual subject combination and low perspective create a photograph that feels distinctly Kalahari: some of the reserve’s most remarkable stories unfold on a miniature scale.
Photo and photographer details – read more
Jens says: “With great excitement, I visited the Central Kalahari Game Reserve in Botswana in mid-March after a period of heavy rain. On my first day, I came across a small muddy pond next to the track where young African bullfrogs were engaged in their quest to survive. At the same time, thousands of butterflies were gathering around the mineral-rich edges of the pond.
To photograph the frogs and butterflies, I positioned my vehicle beside the puddle and spent several days lying beneath it to escape the heat. For five to seven hours each day, I worked from ground level, often in uncomfortable positions, trying to capture the little frogs as they hunted among the countless butterflies. The effort was well worth it when everything came together in this scene.”
About photographer Jens Cullmann
Born and raised in Germany, Jens Cullmann discovered wildlife photography in the early 2000s through a combination of his love for photography and travel. Today, much of his work focuses on Southern Africa, where he is drawn to authentic wildlife moments and the beauty, strength and fragility of nature. Patience and persistence remain at the heart of his photographic approach.
Few images resonated with audiences this year as powerfully as this one. The photograph captures a behaviour that has fascinated and moved observers for decades: an elephant mother’s prolonged attachment to her dead calf. The composition is simple, but it is the emotional weight of the moment that gives the image its power. It is a difficult scene to witness and a poignant reminder of the complexity of elephant behaviour.
Photo and photographer details – read more
Sam says: “A lot of wildlife photography centres on action, but it is often the quieter moments that leave the strongest impression. We had been tracking a herd of desert-adapted elephants through the harsh landscape of Damaraland when one particular cow drew our attention. At her feet lay a stillborn calf.
As the herd browsed, she never seemed to lose contact with the calf. At times she would touch it gently with her trunk, at others she would pick it up and carry it to the next feeding area. Sometimes she carried it in her mouth.
After speaking to several local guides, we learned that she had been carrying the calf for almost a week. When we found the herd the following day, she had finally left it behind.
It is difficult not to anthropomorphise situations like this, but it appeared that the elephant was gradually coming to terms with the loss of a calf she had carried for nearly two years.”
About photographer Sam Hankss
Sam Hankss has been passionate about wildlife and Africa for as long as he can remember. After visiting South Africa as a child, he developed a dream of becoming a safari guide and later worked as a guide in the Greater Kruger, where his love for photography flourished. Today, he travels widely across Africa, leading photographic trips and sharing his passion for wildlife and conservation through guiding and photography.
This image demonstrates just how powerful light can be as a storytelling tool. Emerging from darkness and dust, the hyena appears almost ghostlike, its reflection adding another subtle layer to the composition. The photograph challenges common perceptions of a species often portrayed harshly, presenting the animal instead as elegant, mysterious and perfectly adapted to the night.
Photo and photographer details – read more
Caesar says: “Emerging from the darkness, a spotted hyena crosses the edge of a waterhole beneath the African night. Backlit by a carefully controlled light source, its outline glows against a cloud of dust, transforming a familiar scavenger into something altogether different. The reflection below mirrors its presence, creating a scene where reality and illusion briefly meet.
Often misunderstood, the spotted hyena is one of Africa’s most intelligent and successful predators, playing an important role in maintaining ecosystem balance. Here, in the stillness of the night, it becomes a symbol of the hidden life that unfolds after sunset.
This image was photographed in Shompole Conservancy, Kenya, from a dedicated wildlife photography hide that allowed close observation while ensuring the animal remained completely unaware of human presence.”
About photographer Caesar Sengupta
Caesar Sengupta is a wildlife conservation photographer, freelance writer and photography educator. He is a Canon India EOS Maestro and founder-director of DCP Expeditions LLP, a photography learning and community platform established in 2010.
A qualified medical microbiologist by training, Caesar leads photography workshops and expeditions while using photography and writing to highlight biodiversity, conservation and the lesser-known stories of the natural world.
This image captures the essence of the Simien Mountains: vast, dramatic and wild. The imposing male gelada anchors the composition while the playful youngsters and rolling mountain backdrop provide scale and context. The soft post-rain light and layered landscape elevate the image beyond a wildlife portrait, creating a powerful sense of place. Amit was in the exact right place at the right time to capture such a picturesque and voluminous image. What makes the photograph particularly successful is its balance. The geladas are neither overwhelmed by the scenery nor isolated from it. Instead, Amit presents them as part of a vast and fragile Afroalpine ecosystem, creating a portrait that feels both intimate and grand.
Photo and photographer details – read more
Amit says: “I photographed this male shortly after rain while he grazed calmly and kept watch over two playful youngsters near the edge of a cliff in the Simien Mountains. Low clouds hung over the landscape and the cool air added to the atmosphere of the scene. Geladas are unique primates that thrive exclusively in the rugged Ethiopian Highlands, living at elevations ranging from 1,800 to 4,400 metres above sea level. They are the only living primates that primarily graze on grass, with blades and seeds making up most of their diet. Across these highlands, increasing pressure from agriculture continues to fragment the grasslands on which geladas depend. Watching this male feeding while remaining aware of the youngsters around him offered a glimpse into the daily life of one of Africa’s most remarkable primates.”
About photographer Amit Eshel
Growing up in a small community, Amit Eshel developed a fascination with wildlife long before he picked up a camera. Nature was his playground, and his childhood was spent searching for animals, sketching wildlife and dreaming about encounters in the wild.
After graduating with honours in Illustration, Animation and Graphic Design, Amit combined his artistic background with his passion for animals, initially creating wildlife-inspired jewellery using his photographs as reference material. Over time, photography itself became his primary focus.
Today, Amit leads wildlife photography expeditions and works on personal projects in remote locations around the world. His photography combines an artist’s eye for composition with a deep interest in animal behaviour and natural history. In 2018, he made the decision to pursue photography professionally and has since built a career dedicated to documenting remarkable wildlife moments.
The strength of this image lies in its subject matter. Leopard and hyena encounters are usually defined by conflict, tension or avoidance, making this moment of uneasy coexistence particularly compelling. Drawn together by the demands of the dry season, predator and scavenger briefly set aside their rivalry to drink from the same water source. It is a fascinating behavioural moment and a reminder that survival often requires compromise in Africa.
Photo and photographer details – read more
Lucy says: “I was staying at Kavinga on the Ruckomechi River with my mother and father before we headed down to the floodplain to spend a week walking in the area. I took this image on 18 September 2025. The rains had not yet arrived, so animals visited the camp waterhole regularly throughout the night. I was sitting at the bird hide after supper, long after most people had gone to bed, hoping to see a civet I had photographed the previous evening. Instead, a female leopard arrived to drink. Moments later, a young hyena wandered up, seemingly unconcerned that the leopard was already at the waterhole. The leopard was clearly unhappy about the situation but equally determined to drink. She even attempted to swat the hyena at one point, although I missed the shot because it startled me so much.
After taking a drink, she slipped quietly back into the darkness. The entire encounter took place only a few metres from where I was sitting, and my heart was in my mouth the whole time.”
About photographer Lucy Gemmill
Born in Cambridge, UK, and raised on a small farm in Essex, Lucy Gemmill spent 15 years working as a commercial pilot across southern Africa, Central Africa and Central Asia before settling in Johannesburg with her family.
She began her photography journey in 2017 and quickly developed a passion for wildlife and landscape photography. Whenever possible, Lucy returns to Mana Pools, where she enjoys exploring the wilderness on foot and photographing the landscapes and wildlife that make the area so special.
South Luangwa is famous for its leopards, yet this image feels refreshingly different. Surrounded by dense green vegetation after an exceptionally wet season, the young male is photographed in an environment that contrasts with the more familiar dry-season imagery often associated with the park. The monitor lizard kill adds further interest, offering a glimpse into a less commonly photographed aspect of leopard behaviour. Combined with the leopard’s direct gaze and the photographer’s low perspective, the result is an arresting portrait of one of Africa’s most charismatic predators.
Photo and photographer details – read more
Harry says: “During April and May this year, I was fortunate to be based at Msandile River Lodge on the edge of South Luangwa National Park. Known by many as the Valley of the Leopard, I had high expectations for leopard encounters. A biblical wet season, however, meant many roads were inaccessible early in the season and the abundant greenery provided plenty of cover for these elusive cats.
Within my first few days, we came across a monitor lizard that had been killed right beside the road. Suspecting a leopard was nearby, we decided to wait. After more than an hour, our patience was rewarded when a young male emerged from the thicket and approached his kill.
I had taken the passenger seat of the vehicle, which meant there was nothing between me and the leopard sitting just three metres away. As he settled down to feed, I slowly lowered my camera to get as close to eye level as possible. For a brief moment, he looked directly down the lens. After finishing his meal, he disappeared back into the bush. I was left with a racing heart and the feeling that I had witnessed something very special.”
About photographer Harry Martin
Harry Martin is a professional wildlife photographer who has spent the last 12 years leading photographic tours from Scotland to Namibia. With a background in zoology and a lifelong fascination with wildlife, his work combines natural history, storytelling and a strong ethical approach to photography. Having started his photographic journey with 35mm film in 2005, Harry now helps photographers create memorable wildlife encounters and meaningful images in some of the world’s most spectacular wilderness.
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
An Insane Night in the Bushveld
It started quietly enough. Just after dark, I headed out for a night cycle along the bushveld tracks, my headlamp cutting through the ink. The bushveld was alive. After spotting hyenas, genets, bushbabies, and a massive, thrumming porcupine, I was pedalling back home when a lithe form shape-shifted into the beam ahead. A gorgeous leopard, watching me watch her from just ten metres away. After a mutually respectful shared moment, I left her to the night and headed home.
But the bushveld was not done with me …
Last night yielded precious little sleep in our household. At first, we drifted off to the comforting soundtrack of distant lion groans and the odd elephant squeal echoing from the nearby Greater Kruger. Then, around midnight, all hell broke loose.
Nearby, a duiker’s agonising death scream pierced the dark, immediately followed by a chaotic cacophony of wild dog chittering and hyena cackling. A minute later, dead silence. Ten minutes on, another duiker, and another pitched battle between arch-rivals. I ventured into the garden with a spotlight, only to find dozens of dancing, glowing eyes staring back at me from just beyond the fence.
After another brief respite, a larger ungulate’s desperate protests rang out, and once again the angry mobs battled for the spoils. Our two Jack Russells, usually defenders of the realm, completely abandoned their posts and sought comfort in our arms. We lay there in the dark, absorbing the raw, unfiltered reality of nature doing her thing.
Every now and then, nature ignores the rules. In the grasslands of Mpumalanga, a wattled crane and a blue crane have paired up and successfully raised a hybrid chick. This is one of the most obscure documented bird pairings in southern Africa. Remarkably, the youngster has changed appearance as it grows, first resembling a wattled crane, then a blue crane, and now looking increasingly like its wattled parent again. Yet, according to researchers from Endangered Wildlife Trust, it still runs with the speed and agility of a blue crane.
Hybridisation between crane species is exceptionally rare. The researchers have ringed and genetically sampled the bird to follow its future, hoping to answer an intriguing question: if it survives to adulthood, will it find a mate of its own? For now, this unusual youngster offers a fascinating glimpse into crane biology and a rare opportunity for study.
This week, we round up the best safari destinations in Botswana and bring you a concise comparison of East Africa’s spice islands, examining which is best for your travel style.
Our stories this week
Botswana’s top safari destinations
Discover Botswana’s top safari destinations, from the Okavango Delta and Chobe to Mashatu, Selinda and the Makgadikgadi Pans
Zanzibar vs Pemba vs Mafia
Which island is best? It depends on what you’re after: culture, beaches, variety, remote diving, untouched landscapes, or marine life. Check out our comparison guide
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Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas
From desert to delta – 10 days
Journey through three of Botswana’s most iconic landscapes. The arid Central Kalahari, the lush Okavango Delta, and the mighty Chobe River. Enjoy luxurious lodges, fine dining, and seamless service as you follow wildlife from salt pans and desert dunes to glistening lagoons and wide rivers. This safari is shaped by water and the life it sustains.
Ruaha and Mafia Island bush and beach – 8 days
Discover two of Tanzania’s extraordinary and contrasting destinations. The wild beauty of Ruaha National Park, where ancient baobabs tower over elephant herds and prowling predators, to the turquoise waters of Mafia Island, a barefoot hideaway of coral gardens and castaway calm. This classic safari-and-sea combination captures the true spirit of Africa: untamed, soulful, and unforgettable.
AG safari guest, Anne from the UK, had a super safari experience in the Timbavati, Greater Kruger:
“A safari trip to Timbavati. I have recently returned from a visit to a wonderful lodge in the Timbavati area. My trip was organised by Stefan and Wayne at Africa Geographic, and they went out of their way to make everything perfect. From the moment I arrived in Johannesburg to landing at Tanda Tula, everything went smoothly. The lodge itself was super: great game drives, lovely food and a very friendly welcome from everyone. My journey back went just as smoothly, and I was even escorted through the airport to await my flight. I was treated not just professionally but as a friend, and I hope I shall be able to make use of their services again. I must also endorse what others have said about their commitment to both conservation and community development.”
As the Okavango Delta’s annual floods reach their peak, Botswana’s most iconic wilderness is transformed into a labyrinth of waterways, islands and floodplains. This is a season of dramatic contrasts: frosty winter dawns, prowling lions adapting to life in the water, vast herds on the move, and painted dog pups taking their first tentative steps from the den. Watch this short film from Great Plains Conservation for a glimpse into one of Africa’s most dynamic wildlife spectacles. (03:29) Watch here
Botswana is one of Africa’s most celebrated safari destinations. Vast protected landscapes, low visitor densities and a conservation-first tourism model have created some of the continent’s finest wildlife experiences. From the waterways of the Okavango Delta to the desert sands of the Kalahari and salt-crusted pans of Makgadikgadi, Botswana rewards travellers with extraordinary wildlife, exceptional guiding and a sense of wilderness that is increasingly rare.
The country’s safari regions are remarkably diverse. A single itinerary can include mokoro excursions through floodplains, close encounters with elephants along major rivers, predator tracking in remote reserves and nights on a dry salt pan beneath star-filled desert skies.
These are the top Botswana safari destinations, along with what makes each one worth adding to your safari wish list.
The Okavango Delta is the crown jewel of Botswana tourism and one of the world’s most remarkable wilderness areas.
Each year, floodwaters from Angola spread across northern Botswana, creating an intricate network of channels, lagoons, islands and floodplains. This annual flood transforms the Kalahari landscape and supports extraordinary wildlife densities.
The delta is home to large populations of elephant, buffalo, lion, leopard and African wild dog, alongside hundreds of bird species. Wildlife viewing is exceptional throughout the year, particularly during the dry season when animals concentrate around permanent water.
The Okavango is also synonymous with the classic luxury safari experience. Vast private concessions, limited vehicle numbers and diverse safari activities create a highly immersive wilderness experience. Visitors can explore by game drive, mokoro, boat or on foot, with each activity revealing a different side of the ecosystem.
For many travellers, the Okavango Delta is the defining Botswana safari experience.
The Okavango Delta’s seasonal floodwaters create a vast wetland ecosystem where elephants, predators and birdlife thrive in one of Africa’s finest safari destinations
Chobe National Park: Africa’s elephant capital
Chobe National Park is famous for one thing above all else: elephants. The park supports one of the largest elephant populations on Earth, with tens of thousands moving through its forests, floodplains and river systems. During the dry season, enormous herds gather along the Chobe River, creating some of Africa’s most impressive wildlife spectacles.
The river itself is central to the Chobe experience. Boat safaris allow visitors to observe wildlife from a unique perspective as elephants swim between islands, buffalo gather on the banks, and crocodiles bask in the sun. Also expect excellent sightings of lion, leopard, spotted hyena, sable antelope and a remarkable diversity of birdlife.
Away from the Chobe River, Savute (also spelt Savuti) offers abundant wildlife encounters, including lions that specialise in hunting elephants during the dry season and leopards that catch catfish in drying pools.
For first-time safari visitors, few destinations deliver wildlife abundance quite like Chobe.
Large elephant herds gather along the Chobe River, making Chobe National Park one of the best places in Africa to witness elephant behaviour at scale
Khwai: Predator country and photographic paradise
The Khwai region lies on the edge of the Moremi ecosystem and consistently ranks among Botswana’s most productive wildlife areas.
Permanent water from the Khwai River sustains wildlife throughout the year, attracting large concentrations of herbivores and predators. Lions, leopards, African wild dogs and spotted hyenas are regularly encountered, while elephants move through the area in impressive numbers.
Khwai has become particularly popular among photographers because of its diverse habitats and excellent wildlife densities. Open floodplains, woodlands and riverine forests provide varied settings for wildlife viewing and photography.
Unlike many protected areas in Botswana, Khwai allows activities such as night drives and walking safaris, creating opportunities for sightings and experiences not possible in national parks alone.
The Khwai River sustains wildlife year-round, attracting lions, leopards, wild dogs and elephants to this photographer’s paradise on the edge of the Moremi ecosystem
Kwando Reserve: One of Africa’s great predator destinations
For serious wildlife enthusiasts, the Kwando Reserve is often considered one of Botswana’s best-kept secrets.
The reserve’s combination of river systems, floodplains and woodland habitats supports exceptional predator populations. Lions, leopards, cheetahs, spotted hyenas and African wild dogs all thrive here, creating some of the country’s most exciting wildlife viewing opportunities.
Large buffalo herds attract predators year-round, while elephants are a constant presence across the landscape.
Kwando is particularly appealing to repeat safari travellers looking for a more remote and exclusive experience. Wildlife sightings are often dramatic, and the reserve’s relatively low visitor numbers contribute to an authentic wilderness atmosphere.
Known for dramatic predator encounters, Kwando Reserve supports healthy populations of lions, leopards, cheetahs and African wild dogs in a remarkably wild landscape
Central Kalahari Game Reserve: The wild heart of Botswana
Covering more than 50,000 square kilometres, it is one of the largest protected areas in the world. Endless grasslands, fossil river valleys and rolling dunes create landscapes that feel truly untamed.
Following seasonal rains, vast numbers of springbok, gemsbok and wildebeest move across the plains, attracting predators including cheetahs, brown hyenas and the region’s famous black-maned lions.
The reserve is less about constant wildlife sightings and more about experiencing scale, solitude and wilderness. For travellers seeking a deeper connection to Botswana’s desert ecosystems, few places compare.
Endless grasslands and fossil river valleys define the Central Kalahari, where lions roam one of Africa’s largest protected wilderness areas
Makgadikgadi Pans: Botswana’s most unique safari landscape
These immense salt flats are the remnants of an ancient inland sea that once covered much of northern Botswana. During the dry season, the pans stretch to the horizon in every direction, creating one of the continent’s most striking landscapes.
When seasonal rains arrive, the transformation is dramatic. Fresh grasses emerge, attracting large herds of zebra and wildebeest. This movement forms part of southern Africa’s second-largest zebra migration.
A brown hyena on the salt flats
The region is also known for its cultural heritage, archaeological significance and desert-adapted wildlife. Visitors can combine game viewing with exploration of ancient landscapes that reveal Botswana’s deep natural history.
For travellers seeking experiences beyond traditional safari activities, the Makgadikgadi delivers something genuinely different.
Ancient salt pans stretch to the horizon in the Makgadikgadi, a landscape transformed by seasonal rains and southern Africa’s great zebra migration
Known as the Land of Giants, Mashatu is famous for its large elephant bulls, ancient baobab trees and impressive predator populations. Leopards are particularly well represented here, making the region a favourite among wildlife photographers.
The reserve’s varied terrain includes sandstone ridges, riverbeds, open plains and woodland, creating excellent habitat diversity and year-round wildlife viewing opportunities.
Mashatu also offers a different visual character to northern Botswana. The dramatic landscapes, combined with outstanding wildlife encounters, make it an excellent addition to a broader Botswana safari itinerary.
Mashatu’s giant elephants, ancient baobabs and renowned leopard sightings have earned it the nickname Land of Giants in Botswana’s eastern wilderness
Why Botswana remains Africa’s premier safari destination
What sets Botswana apart is the sheer variety of safari experiences available within one country. Travellers can glide through the waterways of the Okavango Delta, watch elephants gather along the Chobe River, track predators in Kwando and Selinda, explore the vast grasslands of the Central Kalahari and marvel at the endless salt flats of the Makgadikgadi.
The country’s commitment to conservation and low-impact tourism has helped preserve extraordinary wilderness areas while creating some of Africa’s most sought-after safari experiences.
Whether you are planning a first safari or returning to Africa’s wild places, Botswana offers a collection of destinations that consistently rank among the continent’s finest.
From zebra migrations to the Okavango Delta’s waterways and the salt pans of the Kalahari, Botswana offers some of Africa’s most diverse and rewarding safari experiences
Further reading
Botswana: My dream safari – A personal journey through Botswana’s iconic wilderness areas and wildlife encounters. Read more for first-hand safari inspiration.
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
His name was ZITO
We have confirmed the identity of the super tusker elephant killed in 2024 by a trophy hunter in Tanzania – possibly the last such giant in the Grumeti area, with tusks that sweep the ground.
Trophy hunters will tell you that picking off the big-tusked elephants is sustainable, and many even laud it as “conservation in action”. There are only about 25 super tuskers left in East Africa, and 6 were hunted in 2024 “in the name of conservation”.
As an aside, five of the six killed in Tanzania were Kenyan elephants that roamed across the border into Tanzania.
Tanzania allows trophy hunting, and Kenya does not. Of the remaining super tuskers still alive, Tanzania has approximately 5, and Kenya has 20 after the 2024 killings. Those numbers clearly spell out the impact of trophy hunting on the large-tusked elephant gene. Enough said.
My rule of thumb is that if an activity further reduces the population of a free-roaming species or a genetic trait already in decline, then that activity is, by definition, unsustainable.
Our sharing of Zito’s identity on social media this week elicited understandable anger and confusion about why this is still a thing in a world where free-roaming wildlife is diminishing. It also solicited the predictable ad hominem attacks on AG by trophy hunters and continued justification of their fetish for killing in the name of fun and ego.
Madagascar’s forests may hold far more life than scientists ever realised. A major new global biodiversity project using innovative survey methods has revealed that the island’s insects, fungi and other overlooked species follow completely different patterns of diversity to larger animals like lemurs and birds. The findings suggest that conservation areas designed around famous wildlife may be missing vast amounts of hidden biodiversity entirely. Researchers estimate Madagascar could harbour around 255,000 arthropod species alone, many still unknown to science, with every remaining patch of forest containing unique life found nowhere else on Earth. The project is also pioneering one of the largest standardised biodiversity monitoring systems ever attempted, using everything from insect traps to fungal spore samplers and camera traps to map life across the planet. Watch this space!
Meanwhile, Photographer of the Year 2026 reaches its final stages with two finalist galleries packed with astonishing moments: brutal predator encounters, surreal light, dense forests, impossible behaviour and breathtaking species from across Africa. And for safari dreamers, we head to Tembe Elephant Park: South Africa’s remote sand-forest wilderness, famous for giant tuskers, intimate Big Five sightings, spectacular birding and one of the country’s most atmospheric safari experiences.
Our stories this week
Tembe Elephant Park
Close elephant encounters, rare sand forests, and slow safari magic define Tembe Elephant Park in northern KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa
Finalists – Gallery 1
The finalists for Photographer of the Year 2026 are here! Submissions are now closed. Winners will be announced in early June
Finalists – Gallery 2
Here is Gallery 2 of finalists for Photographer of the Year 2026! Winners will be treated to a safari to Nyungwe, Rwanda
VOTE TO CELEBRATE AFRICA
We’ve been nominated as Africa’s Leading Tour Operator in the 2026 World Travel Awards, and we’d love your support.
By voting for Africa Geographic, you’re backing a more conscious and meaningful way to travel — one that celebrates Africa’s extraordinary biodiversity, connects travellers with authentic experiences, and contributes to conservation on the ground. Register and vote for us here.
Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas
Best of Malawi’s safari parks – 10 days
The best-of-Malawi safari takes you to the Big 5 havens of Majete Wildlife Reserve, Liwonde National Park and the rugged wilderness of Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve. The three parks are managed by African Parks, and their conservation success stories are what responsible travel is all about. Come and find out for yourself and make a real difference where it counts.
Art safari in the Big 5 Timbavati – 7 days
Whether you are a passionate beginner or a seasoned creator, this unique art safari offers the chance to hone your skills with professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls. Soak up the atmosphere of the Big-5 Timbavati Private Nature Reserve in the Greater Kruger, South Africa and channel it into artistry! 6-12 September 2026: only 2 spots left!
First identified in April 2017, Hatulo1 is an impressive, well-natured 45- to 50-year-old bull in his prime. Readily recognised by his symmetrical tusks, he roams widely across the landscape, and experts believe he will surely become Tsavo’s top tusker in time.
We have partnered with Tsavo Trust to protect these natural rarities, of which only an estimated 50–100 remain in the world, and at least eight still call Tsavo home. Through consistent aerial and ground monitoring, dedicated teams work tirelessly to secure a safe future for Hatulo1, safeguarding him from the constant threats of ivory poachers and trophy hunters.
This vital work is only possible because of you. We invite you to donate to our Guarding Tuskers campaign to help ensure Tsavo’s majestic giants can continue to live wild and undisturbed.
Discover the Top 7 experiences you can enjoy when staying at Ukuri lodges, from gorilla watching and chimp trekking to guided bush walks, cultural encounters, exceptional birding, and unforgettable Big 5 wildlife viewing. Set in some of Africa’s most remote and extraordinary wilderness areas, every Ukuri journey combines authentic adventure with meaningful conservation impact. (03:19) Watch here.
Our Photographer of the Year 2026 is now closed for entries. The overall winner, runners-up, and their partners will journey to Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda, staying at the newly built Munazi Lodge, the only lodge inside the park. Expect chimpanzee trekking, canopy walks high above the forest floor, waterfall hikes, and encounters with black-and-white colobus monkeys in one of Africa’s most biodiverse montane forests. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2026 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Winners will be announced in June.
This is Photographer of the Year 2026 Finalists Gallery 2. To see the other Photographer of the Year Finalists gallery, click here: Gallery 1.
Our Photographer of the Year 2026 is now closed for entries. The overall winner, runners-up, and their partners will journey to Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda, staying at the newly built Munazi Lodge, the only lodge inside the park. Expect chimpanzee trekking, canopy walks high above the forest floor, waterfall hikes, and encounters with black-and-white colobus monkeys in one of Africa’s most biodiverse montane forests. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2026 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Winners will be announced in June.
This is Photographer of the Year 2026 Finalists Gallery 1. To see the other Photographer of the Year Finalists gallery, click here: Gallery 2.
Tembe Elephant Park is a community-owned Big Five game reserve famous for big-tusked elephants in Maputaland, South Africa, next to Ndumo Game Reserve.
Experienced local guides carefully read elephant behaviour to keep close encounters respectful and safe.
The park protects some of South Africa’s largest elephants and rare sand forest ecosystems.
Tembe’s slow safari rhythm rewards patience with extraordinary wildlife moments beyond traditional game viewing.
Community-run Tembe Elephant Park Lodge supports conservation and local livelihoods through low-impact safari tourism.
Want to visit Tembe Elephant Park on safari? Book your Tembe safari here. Ukuri brings you lodges and bush camps that offer tangible, measurable benefits for conservation & communities.
There’s a magnificent elephant standing in the middle of the narrow sand track ahead of us in Tembe Elephant Park. Tembe is a community-owned Big Five game reserve famous for big-tusked elephants in Maputaland, South Africa. The afternoon heat presses down like a heavy hand. He has claimed the only patch of deep shade beneath a beautiful pod mahogany tree. There he stands, perfectly still, as if leaning into the cooler air, thinking deep elephant philosophical thoughts.
Our guide gently reverses the game-drive vehicle and pauses at a respectful distance. He nudges us slightly off the track and switches off the engine. The thundering diesel noise is replaced by the afternoon bush orchestra: insects hum, and a rainbird (Burchell’s coucal) trills its melodic call, pleading with the few clouds in the sky to release their rain and cool us all down.
It’s an elephant-in-his-kingdom kind of moment, the sort of photograph you dream of taking. But we’ve clearly disturbed this giant’s catnap. He nonchalantly scoops up a trunkful of sand and tosses it over his shoulder, dust shimmering in the heat, before stepping towards us. My heart begins to race. I’m using a wide-angle lens, and his mighty bulk quickly fills my viewfinder.
I lift my eye from the camera. Now my heart threatens to leap into my throat. He is right there on my side of the vehicle. The leathery folds of his skin, the fringe of his eyelashes, the slow sway of his trunk – I could reach out and touch him without even stretching.
And then, as quietly as he arrived, he is gone, melting back into the bush, an occasional cracking twig the only sign that he is still there. My heart resumes its usual position, but the rest of me is left in a state of absolute wonder that borders on reverence.
But before I tell you more…
Taking a dust bath at the waterhole
Where is Tembe Elephant Park?
Tembe is home to some of South Africa’s largest elephants and a rare sand forest ecosystem. You’ll find this community-owned park on the border between southern Mozambique and South Africa in northern KwaZulu-Natal.
It is far off the usual safari-goers’ beaten track and, to be honest, a bit of a schlepp to get to. But as I discovered, there is no other place that will give you such incredible, calm, face-to-face moments with elephants on their terms, in their territory.
However, before you jump in your car and head off to Tembe Elephant Park, there are two important things you need to know. First, this is rough 4×4 sandy territory with deep, shock-absorber-eating and axle-breaking holes.
Secondly, and most importantly for everyone’s safety – human and elephant alike – the chances of having encounters like ours are slim unless you are on a guided game drive with Tembe Elephant Park Lodge. You see, the guides are familiar with most of the park’s elephants.
Our guide, Kulu, has been taking people out twice a day for the last 13 years. He has learnt to judge an elephant’s demeanour. He can decide whether they might allow you into their space without feeling threatened or crowded. It’s a fine line that’s easy to misread when all you see is a wonderful photo opportunity. That’s when close encounters can quickly turn from magical to dangerous.
Ready for your own unforgettable elephant safari? Let Africa Geographic help you plan an extraordinary wildlife journey across Africa’s wildest places.
On more than one occasion, Kulu decided not to stop, picking up on minute elephant cues that you or I would never even notice. On other occasions, I noticed an elephant pause, raise its trunk to scent this noisy vehicle, and then relax as if to say: “Oh, it’s you again, Kulu.”
These moments of trust and understanding don’t happen by accident. They’re the result of Kulu’s years of quiet attention and deep respect for the elephants, and that respect is exactly what keeps close encounters calm rather than dangerous.
An elephant tests my resolve not to flinch
We stopped for the traditional afternoon game-drive sundowners on the edge of a massive swamp, where a matriarchal herd of elephants went about their elephant business. A young elephant mock-charged a heron that ignored it. Boisterous teenagers tested their strength against each other in a game of elephant wrestling, while their mothers and aunties worked steadily on their liquid intake, just like any normal extended family gathering.
We finished our sundowners at the same time as the elephant mothers and aunties. At some unknown elephant signal, the entire family moved out of the swamp towards us. Kulu suggested we sit in the vehicle and wait to see if they would come closer.
One of Tembe’s elephants moved peacefully close to the vehicle at its own pace
One very large and very daunting aunty casually moved closer to the game-drive vehicle until she was about four metres away. She paused and raised her trunk to catch our scent, I presumed. Satisfied, she stepped closer and deftly wrapped her trunk around a small dry shrub, breaking it with a massive crack and leaving a small stump in the ground.
She stepped over the stump and rocked it back and forth with her hind foot. Now she was so close I could feel the cool air wash over me as she flapped her ears. Each time they slapped against her body, it sounded like a huge bass drum resonating through her.
During her stump-rocking performance, she watched us as if she were testing our nerve: would we flinch or wouldn’t we?
After what felt like a lifetime, she stopped and moved to the back of the vehicle, where she paused. Her tummy rumbled lightly, as if she were giggling to herself, before she disappeared into the bush.
And the rest of the herd? They, too, melted away into the bush.
Close elephant encounters in Tembe happen on the elephants’ terms, guided by experienced local guides
A wild dog kill sighting adds to the unpredictability of Tembe’s slow safari rhythmA pod of hippos lurks as a herd comes down to drink
Wildlife of Tembe
Tembe protects an elephant population that once wandered freely across what is now the Mozambique border, and the park has long been famous for producing enormous tuskers. The legendary bulls Isilo, Induna and Makobona, three of the largest tuskers in southern Africa, once walked these sand forests. Though all three have since died of natural causes, Tembe still shelters impressive bulls carrying vast ivory that seems almost impossibly heavy as they move silently through the bush.
Tembe is also a Big Five reserve, although the dense sand forest and thick vegetation mean wildlife sightings are less predictable than in more open safari destinations. Buffalo, lion, leopard, black rhino and white rhino all occur here, along with giraffe, zebra, wildebeest and a variety of antelope, including nyala, kudu, waterbuck, bushbuck, reedbuck, steenbok, grey duiker and the tiny suni.
And then there are the birds. More than 340 species have been recorded in Tembe Elephant Park, making it a deeply rewarding destination for birdwatchers willing to slow down and listen carefully to the forest around them. Specials include the African broadbill, pink-throated twinspot, lemon-breasted canary, eastern nicator and the elusive Rudd’s apalis.
A Tembe lion lounges beside the sandy track, unconcerned by the slow-moving safari vehicle nearby
When an elephant holds your gaze
It’s our last day at Tembe Elephant Park, and the bush feels steeped in that bittersweet quiet that comes when you know you’re about to leave a place you’re not quite finished with.
Two elephants appear on the narrow sand track ahead. We stop and simply wait to see if they’ll approach us.
One of them angles towards us, unhurried, pausing every few steps to snack on the lush green grasses lining the track. It is so still that I can hear the grass squeak as she plucks it from the earth with her trunk. Before each mouthful, she gives the bundle a gentle shake, dust and tiny insects drifting away in the light. She comes closer and closer until she is on my side of the vehicle, and then she stops. I lower the camera. Some moments are better felt than photographed.
I can see the wiry hairs on her trunk, the map of creases around her eye, the fine dusting of sand across the folds of her skin. I lift my gaze and meet hers.
Her eyes seem to travel straight through me, peeling back the layers I didn’t know I wore, laying my soul bare to her slow, ancient appraisal. Time stretches thin and quiet between us. At last, I have to drop my eyes; I can no longer bear the weight of that careful inspection. I feel as though I’ve failed some invisible elephant examination.
“She comes closer and closer until she is on my side of the vehicle, and then she stops”
The air stirs as her ears move. Each leisurely flap sends a soft, cool breath over me, a low, steady drumbeat that seems to nudge my racing heart into her slower rhythm. The rest of the world falls away until there is nothing but her, the hush of the bush, and this small, ridiculous human trying not to move. And then my tummy rumbles. I freeze, holding my breath, praying she hasn’t heard it. Of course she has. She answers with a deep belly rumble of her own and then a gloriously inelegant fart that would put any teenage boy to shame – thankfully without the smell. I don’t respond. It’s only then that I realise I’ve been holding my breath for most of this strange, shared silence. I glance up and catch what can only be described as a twinkle in her eye. I let my breath slip out as quietly as I can. Her tummy rumbles lightly in reply and, apparently satisfied that I pose no threat and very little entertainment, she drifts towards the back of the vehicle.
One of Tembe’s large-tusked elephants
There, she decides that the rear pillar is exactly the right height for a back scratch. Her immense body leans into it, and the whole vehicle rocks, bolts creaking, as she works an itch only she can feel. Kulu shouts at her in Zulu to stop, but she ignores him with the calm assurance of a creature who knows this land has always been hers. Only when he turns the key and the engine coughs to life does she finally step away, vanishing into the green tangle.
The second elephant follows, and within moments the track is empty again, as if they were never there – except for the echo of drumbeat ears and the wild, impossible calm they’ve left behind.
When giants let you in
Long after we leave Tembe Elephant Park, I can still feel the soft drumbeat of her ears in the air, as if the rhythm had settled somewhere in my ribs and refused to leave. For a few brief days, the giants of this sand forest had opened a quiet doorway and allowed us to step, very carefully, into their world.
Tembe Elephant Park is not a place for ticking species off a list or chasing photographs to show where you’ve been. It is a place of initiation. A place where time slows to the pace of an elephant’s heartbeat, and you realise you are not the main character in this story at all, but a guest on borrowed ground. Someone to be weighed and then, if you’re lucky, quietly accepted.
You leave with nothing more tangible than dust in your clothes and the sense that something inside you has quietly shifted. That is the true souvenir of Tembe: the knowledge that, for a heartbeat or two, the giants let you in – and the quiet understanding that they did not need to.
An elephant herd gathers at a small waterhole in TembeBuffalo herds move across Tembe’s lush grasslands after seasonal rains soften the sand forest landscapeGiraffes browse quietly among Tembe’s sand forest clearings and open grassy areas
The pace of Tembe Elephant Park
Tembe Elephant Park is a remote sand forest reserve in northern KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. Days here are slow and quiet: unhurried drives, time at waterholes, and long stretches where very little seems to happen until it suddenly does.
If you prefer fast-paced, checklist safaris, Tembe may feel too still. If you’re happy to let the bush and the elephants set the rhythm, this is your kind of place.
Viewing elephants from the cool sanctuary of a hide
Safety and guided drives
The calm, close encounters with elephants in Tembe Elephant Park don’t happen by accident. This is big-elephant country, with narrow sandy tracks and dense bush. For everyone’s safety – yours and the elephants’ – guided game drives with experienced rangers are essential.
Tembe Elephant Park Lodge guides know the individual elephants and can read subtle changes in their behaviour. They decide when it’s safe to sit quietly and when it’s time to give the elephants space. That judgment is what keeps encounters magical rather than dangerous.
Walking through Tembe’s rare sand forest reveals a quieter, slower side of safari travel
4×4 and self-driving experiences in Tembe Elephant Park
The roads in Tembe are deep, soft sand with axle-eating holes. This is proper 4×4 territory, not a quick detour in a high-clearance SUV. You do need a 4×4 to self-drive in Tembe, and even then, you’ll spend much of your time in low range.
You can self-drive the routes if you have a 4×4. But the best viewing – and any close elephant moments – are usually from the lodge vehicles. They’re built for the terrain and positioned with both safety and the elephants’ comfort in mind.
Tembe’s sandy roads belong as much to lions as they do to elephants
Accommodation at Tembe Elephant Park
Tembe Elephant Park Lodge is the only accommodation available inside Tembe Elephant Park. It offers a full tented safari package, including meals and two activities per day, at a very affordable rate.
The lodge’s location inside the park means you’re immersed in the sounds of the sand forest day and night, with elephants, antelope and birdlife often passing close by.
Tembe Elephant Lodge offers an intimate tented safari experience deep inside elephant country
Tembe Elephant Park Lodge: A community-run safari lodge
Tembe Elephant Park Lodge is a community-run initiative that currently employs 55 people. Your stay helps support the Tembe people, whose ancestral land this is and who are closely involved in protecting the sand forest and its elephants.
The lodge feels less like a polished resort and more like being welcomed into a place that still belongs, first and foremost, to its original custodians.
One of the loveliest surprises at the Lodge is the massage in your own private bush spa behind your safari tent. After hours of bumping along sandy tracks, it feels wonderfully indulgent to have your muscles unknot to the sound of birds and rustling leaves. It’s oddly grounding too – a small human comfort in the middle of elephant country.
Staying here gives you the best chance of those calm, close encounters that Tembe is known for – on the elephants’ terms, in their own sand forest home.
Seen from above, Tembe’s wetlands and swamps form lifelines for elephants and other wildlife
Tucked away in South Africa’s Eastern Cape you’ll find another elephant park: Addo Elephant National Park is a conservation triumph and a wildlife lover’s paradise. Read more about Addo here.
For more destinations, lodges and bush camps that offer tangible, measurable benefits for conservation & communities, check out Ukuri.travel.
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
When my Landy is the safest overnight accommodation 🙂
We have many leopards and hyenas in the neighbourhood, so warthogs have to find whatever overnight accommodation they can to avoid being supper. Oftentimes, termite mound burrows are fully occupied, or predator activity nearby makes them a temporary fear zone. And so we frequently have hog families sleeping under my Land Rover.
Of course, they are welcome. BUT using the car in the early morning can be a hazardous undertaking, because their hurtling exit with flashing tusks could seriously damage and even kill me. So, part of my morning ritual is to check for resident hogs and scare them off, as this video illustrates.
One morning, a few years back, one of the hogs would not budge from under the vehicle and was found to be dead by snake bite. This is bushveld life!
There’s a Cape robin-chat outside my window that seems incapable of sleep. When I’m burning the midnight oil, his flittering and fluting keep me company long after dark. But this isn’t simply insomnia: it’s a symptom of the Anthropocene. Artificial light is reshaping the dawn chorus itself, pushing some birds to sing at hours far earlier and later than they should. A recent study found that robins living near streetlights begin singing well before sunrise and continue later into the night. Species like blackbirds, great tits and blue tits are also shifting their daily rhythms. Artificial light is also disrupting bats, drawing insects away from some species while exposing others to predators as they avoid illuminated skies altogether.
The research highlights urban lighting as a powerful ecological force, but also one that can be managed. Dimming, shielding or switching off unnecessary lights could help restore more natural behaviour for urban wildlife, and return a little darkness to the wild world.
And now, to the light. We’ve entered the final stage of Photographer of the Year 2026. Four galleries now hold the Top 108 photographs of the year: astonishing colour, dense forests, gorgeous infants, brutal hunts, impossibly rare species and split-second moments that feel almost unreal. Somewhere in these galleries is our winner. Check them out below.
Our stories this week
TOP 108 – GALLERY 1
The final stage of Photographer of the Year 2026 begins. Top entrants will win a chimpanzee-trekking trip to Munazi Lodge in Rwanda
TOP 108 – GALLERY 2
From dense forests to predator action, these Photographer of the Year entries showcase Africa at its wildest and most beautiful
TOP 108 – GALLERY 3
The race to crown our Photographer of the Year 2026 intensifies, and the talented winners will travel to Nyungwe, Rwanda
TOP 108 – GALLERY 4
Explore another powerful Photographer of the Year gallery filled with astonishing species, raw emotion and moments
VOTE TO CELEBRATE AFRICA
What makes an Africa Geographic safari different?
Deep local knowledge, carefully chosen lodges, and tailor-made journeys designed around extraordinary experiences in Africa’s wildest places. For over 30 years, we’ve helped travellers experience Africa meaningfully.
We are proud that this approach has earned Africa Geographic a nomination for Africa’s Leading Tour Operator 2026 in the prestigious World Travel Awards. If you’d like to support us, you can vote for Africa Geographic here.
Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas
Cheetah conservation safari – 7 days
This safari is all about cheetahs, and more. Experience luxury in malaria-free Big 5 reserves in South Africa’s Eastern Cape and Great Karoo while tracking cheetahs and discovering inspiring rewilding success stories. Enjoy family-friendly activities, authentic farmhouse-style lodges, and meaningful travel with purpose.
Kenya’s Super Tuskers – 9-days
Time spent with tuskers is an investment in your soul. Journey to Kenya’s stunning Tsavo and Amboseli in search of the large-tusked elephants that define Africa’s vast open landscapes. Along the way, look for Tsavo’s famous maneless lions, gerenuk, elusive striped hyenas and hirola, the world’s rarest antelope. Enjoy unique experiences, such as viewing hippos and crocodiles from an underwater hide and meeting orphaned elephants.
AG safari guests Theresa and William from the USA, enjoyed a dream safari to Tanzania that they will treasure forever:
“Amazing Adventure by Africa Geographic. Stef, Wayne, and the rest of the team helped us realise our dream of an African safari. Our guides Julius, Kaseem and John shared their vast knowledge of the wildlife and habitats. Such beautiful things we saw, memories to be shared and cherished. We can’t recommend Africa Geographic highly enough.”
Planning an African safari for August or September? These peak safari months deliver dramatic wildlife sightings, excellent gorilla experiences, dry-season game viewing, predator action and iconic events like the Great Migration river crossings. In this video, Africa Geographic breaks down what to expect, where to go, and why booking early is essential for Africa’s busiest safari season. (02:09) Watch here
The super tusker elephant trophy hunted in Tanzania has been identified. Zito, possibly the last super tusker in the Grumeti area, was a popular encounter for tourists.
Originally published 30 October 2024
Updated 25 May 2026: We can confirm that the elephant trophy-hunted was indeed Zito. The photo of the trophy hunting party with Zito’s carcass has surfaced on social media, two years after the super tusker was killed. According to the “Hunting and wildlife breeding” Facebook page, the professional hunter responsible is Mike Fell, who is known for posting photos of his trophies on social media under the title “Horn of the Hunter“. At the time of writing, Fell’s Instagram profile photo was of Zito’s carcass.
Updated 1 November 2024: One contact on the ground suggests that the tusk weight of the hunted elephant allegedly weighed in at 132 and 127 pounds.
Super tusker elephants have at least one tusk weighing over 100 pounds/45kg. Zito is an elephant known to roam Tanzania’s Serengeti ecosystem, Grumeti Game Reserve (on the northwest border of Serengeti National Park), and Maswa Game Reserve (south of Serengeti’s western corridor), and was formerly observed in Siana Conservancy in Kenya. Zito is a cross-border elephant and one of the last super tuskers to roam Tanzania’s greater Serengeti ecosystem.
Zito was first recorded on the Elephant Voices Mara Elephant Database around 2012 as “M190” after being seen in the Siana Conservancy, east of Maasai Mara National Reserve, in Kenya.
Gini Cowell, Field Operations Manager at the Elephant Aware conservation project (based in Siana, in the Mara ecosystem), observed this elephant for some time between 2009 and 2011 in Kenya. “Even all those years ago I remember him being very magnificent with his long, splayed tusks,” says Cowell.
“On one occasion, I remember this particular male walked calmly towards our vehicle, and he stopped to observe us while casually munching on an acacia tree branch. We noticed that he had a relatively large wound on his right rump region, which did not appear very deep or life-threatening, but he would swat at it with his tail to keep flies away. It still didn’t affect his disposition. He was clearly at ease and completely undisturbed by our presence. I strongly recall how he was so huge, majestic and yet so gentle towards us.”
Zito is likely between 50 and 60 years old. Observers have estimated Zito’s tusks to weigh between 100 and 110 pounds. He was last spotted in Grumeti in July 2024. Reports of a Maswa super tusker hunt first started doing the rounds in early October.
A video of Zito currently doing the rounds on social media. Source: Unknown (please contact us if this is your video)
A scan of trophy hunting forums reveals that Maswa was historically a popular hunting ground for super tuskers but that these elephants have now been mostly shot out.
Zito is so named for the size of his tusks – Zito means “weight” in Swahili. Zito has been referred to as “gentle and unassuming” and “incredibly relaxed” in the presence of humans.
“There is a mutual, informal agreement among stakeholders and hunters in the region that this elephant is off-limits for hunting,” says one prominent property owner in the Serengeti area.
The cross-border elephants of Tanzania and Kenya have been in the spotlight since Africa Geographic broke the news that two known super tuskers of the Amboseli ecosystem were hunted in Tanzania, near the Kenya border.
Soon after the death of these two super tuskers, another three large tuskers were hunted in Tanzania near the border, despite various calls by conservationists, scientists and the public to halt hunting in this area, frequented by Amboseli’s important elephant population. This brought the total to five large-tusked elephants hunted along the border in just eight months.
While Zito does not belong to the unique Amboseli elephant population, he has often been spotted along the border between the Serengeti and Kenya.
Zito photographed in Grumeti between 2019 and 2022
Super tuskers are increasingly rare, with an estimated 84 remaining in Africa. The targeting of super tuskers like Zito is a trend that threatens the future of this genetically distinct elephant population
Zito photographed in 2019
Africa Geographic is seeking more information about this hunt, including photos of the dead elephant. As usual, all informant identities will be treated with the strictest confidentiality. Anyone with more information on this trophy hunt is urged to send more details to editors@africageographic.com. Likewise, if you have any photo evidence of Zito alive after September 2024, please share this information and pics.
Our Photographer of the Year 2026 is now closed for entries. The overall winner, runners-up, and their partners will journey to Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda, staying at the newly built Munazi Lodge, the only lodge inside the park. Expect chimpanzee trekking, canopy walks high above the forest floor, waterfall hikes, and encounters with black-and-white colobus monkeys in one of Africa’s most biodiverse montane forests. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2026 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Winners will be announced in June.
Here is Gallery 4 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other galleries, follow the links to: Gallery 1, Gallery 2 and Gallery 3
Our Photographer of the Year 2026 is now closed for entries. The overall winner, runners-up, and their partners will journey to Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda, staying at the newly built Munazi Lodge, the only lodge inside the park. Expect chimpanzee trekking, canopy walks high above the forest floor, waterfall hikes, and encounters with black-and-white colobus monkeys in one of Africa’s most biodiverse montane forests. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2026 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Winners will be announced in June.
Here is Gallery 3 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other galleries, follow the links to: Gallery 1, Gallery 2 and Gallery 4
Our Photographer of the Year 2026 is now closed for entries. The overall winner, runners-up, and their partners will journey to Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda, staying at the newly built Munazi Lodge, the only lodge inside the park. Expect chimpanzee trekking, canopy walks high above the forest floor, waterfall hikes, and encounters with black-and-white colobus monkeys in one of Africa’s most biodiverse montane forests. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2026 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Winners will be announced in June.
Here is Gallery 2 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other galleries, follow the links to: Gallery 1, Gallery 3 and Gallery 4
Our Photographer of the Year 2026 is now closed for entries. The overall winner, runners-up, and their partners will journey to Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda, staying at the newly built Munazi Lodge, the only lodge inside the park. Expect chimpanzee trekking, canopy walks high above the forest floor, waterfall hikes, and encounters with black-and-white colobus monkeys in one of Africa’s most biodiverse montane forests. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2026 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Winners will be announced in June.
Here is Gallery 1 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other galleries, follow the links to: Gallery 2, Gallery 3 and Gallery 4
Okavango flooding like never before & our final photo entries
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter and more inspiration for your African safari.
From our CEO – Simon Espley
WHAT ARE WE DOING?
According to a BBC report, a tourist in Seychelles complained about being woken by birds at dawn. At a Thai resort in a primary forest, guests were so disturbed by frogs croaking at night that staff were asked to go out and round them up. Then there was the guest at a Kenyan tented camp who complained about a hippo brushing against their tent.
If this widening disconnect between modern humans and real life doesn’t alarm you, consider this: the same report suggested many children at tourism resorts have lost both the appetite and ability to play outdoors or appreciate nature. Nature simply doesn’t provide enough stimulation anymore.
Apparently, we’ve become so conditioned to sanitised, air-conditioned environments that traffic, sirens and screens lull us to sleep, while birdsong and frogs disrupt our circadian rhythms.
Now add the explosion of AI-generated fantasy masquerading as reality, and the expectation gap grows even wider. How long before children would rather visit Wakanda to marvel at pterodactyls hunting Homo sapiens and volcanoes erupting every few minutes?
This is why real safaris matter. Not staged experiences. Not digital fantasy. But authentic encounters with wild Africa: unpredictable, humbling, sometimes uncomfortable, always unforgettable.
Contact my awesome crew for a safari that celebrates and benefits nature and local people.
One of the most arresting images in this week’s Photographer of the Year selection shows a Damaraland elephant mother carrying her stillborn calf across the Namib Desert: touching, smelling and lifting the tiny body long after death.
Scientists have documented similar behaviour around the world: elephants standing vigil over dying relatives, carrying dead infants for days, revisiting bones and carcasses, and even appearing to bury calves beneath soil and vegetation in India. Separately, discoveries of large numbers of elephant bones in the same area (usually linked to droughts, poaching or natural die-offs) helped inspire enduring myths like the elephant graveyard made famous in The Lion King (an image that still haunts a whole generation of us!). What remains undeniable is elephants’ unusual engagement with death, and how deeply this behaviour unsettles us.
This is the final week of new entries for Photographer of the Year 2026, and it’s a spectacular one. Next, our judges begin the difficult task of narrowing down the finalists through our last rounds of voting.
This week, we explore the rare flood conditions creating one of the Okavango’s most extraordinary safari seasons in decades. It’s not too late to be one of the lucky few to witness this extraordinary phenomenon – we’ll help you plan. Plus, if you’re planning your first safari, check out our beginner’s guide to safaris below.
Our stories this week
FINAL PHOTO ENTRIES – 1
Here are our favourite pics from the final week of entries for Photographer of the Year 2026, as chosen by our judges
FINAL PHOTO ENTRIES – 2
Our top photos selected for Week 12 of Photographer of the Year. Finalists stand a chance to win a trip to Nyungwe, Rwanda
DELTA IN FLOOD
Rare floodwaters are transforming Botswana’s Okavango Delta into an extraordinary season of water, wildlife and safari exploration
BEGINNERS SAFARI GUIDE
Your first time going on safari? Here’s a complete guide to safari planning for beginners – where, when, how and more
Help celebrate Africa Geographic
We are often asked what makes an Africa Geographic safari different. It starts with deep local knowledge, carefully chosen lodges, and an understanding that timing and place are everything.
Every journey is tailored and designed to reveal Africa at its most extraordinary. We’re proud to announce that this approach has earned Africa Geographic nominations for the World Travel Awards 2026 in two categories: Africa’s Leading Luxury Safari Company and Africa’s Leading Tour Operator.
Southern Africa mega safari – 22 days
Be swept off your feet with wall-to-wall wildlife action on this iconic southern African safari. You’ll visit Greater Kruger to experience the Big 5 and rarer treasures. You’ll also visit South Africa’s mother city, Cape Town, and her winelands. Plus, you’ll experience the wilds of the Okavango Delta and Chobe Riverfront in Botswana, and the majesty of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe – for a once-in-a-lifetime adventure.
The iconic Kenya safari – 12 days
Journey to where iconic landscapes meet, from Kilimanjaro to the Mara and northern Kenya’s wild frontier. Discover Kenya’s most iconic landscapes, from Nairobi to the elephant plains of Amboseli, the predator-rich Maasai Mara and the wild frontier of Laikipia. Search for giant tusker elephants, the world’s rarest antelope, the Big Five and three hyena species, meet orphaned elephants, feed endangered giraffes and connect with local communities, with flights between destinations maximising your time in the wild.
Your safari just helped expand the range of Africa’s most endangered predators.
Thanks to your booking with Africa Geographic, we’ve just donated a portion of our safari earnings to the Endangered Wildlife Trust’s Wild Dog Range Expansion Project: an urgent project with the goal to secure safe habitat, reduce human-wildlife conflict, and give Africa’s wild dog population room to recover.
With only around 700 breeding pairs remaining, African wild dogs are among Africa’s rarest carnivores. Every viable kilometre of habitat matters, and your safari booking has helped secure it.
This is what travelling with Africa Geographic means. A portion of every safari we book goes directly to projects like this – because the places you explore deserve to be protected, and the animals you encounter deserve a future.
From ghost-like melanistic leopards to bizarre hyena mysteries and dazzling Kruger birdlife, the first episode of our Top Wildlife Clips of 2026 series is packed with unforgettable safari moments from across Africa. Journey with us from the Okavango Delta to Namibia’s dunes as we showcase April’s most thrilling wildlife encounters, captured by our tribe of safari-goers in the wildest corners of the continent. (06:04) Watch here
Our Photographer of the Year 2026 is now closed for entries. The overall winner, runners-up, and their partners will journey to Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda, staying at the newly built Munazi Lodge, the only lodge inside the park. Expect chimpanzee trekking, canopy walks high above the forest floor, waterfall hikes, and encounters with black-and-white colobus monkeys in one of Africa’s most biodiverse montane forests. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2026 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Winners will be announced in June.
Here is Gallery 1 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other gallery, follow the link: Gallery 2
Our Photographer of the Year 2026 is now closed for entries. The overall winner, runners-up, and their partners will journey to Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda, staying at the newly built Munazi Lodge, the only lodge inside the park. Expect chimpanzee trekking, canopy walks high above the forest floor, waterfall hikes, and encounters with black-and-white colobus monkeys in one of Africa’s most biodiverse montane forests. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2026 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Winners will be announced in June.
Here is Gallery 2 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other gallery, follow the link: Gallery 1
Exceptional rainfall is driving one of the largest floods in the Okavango Delta in decades.
Saturated floodplains are allowing water to spread rapidly across the Delta system.
Rising water levels are transforming safari access, wildlife movement and travel experiences.
Mokoro and boating safaris are expanding into channels inaccessible during lower flood years.
Experts believe the 2026 flood will become a benchmark event remembered for decades.
Want to visit the Okavango Delta on safari? Browse our top Okavango Delta safaris here. Or, let us plan your handcrafted, unique Okavango Delta safari. Book now to catch the 2026 floods!
The first sign of a great Okavango flood year is not dramatic. Water begins gathering quietly in channels that have lain shallow for seasons. Floodplains soften. Papyrus beds push further into the landscape. Then, gradually, the Delta expands outward – across grasslands, into woodlands and through ancient waterways that only fill in exceptional years, created by elephants, hippos and termites. In 2026, that transformation is unfolding at a scale few travellers will have witnessed before as the Delta enters an exceptional flood year. Across northern Botswana, rising water levels are reshaping one of Africa’s great safari landscapes into a vast network of navigable channels, flooded islands and thriving wetlands.
Strong rainfall across the Angolan highlands, combined with local rains and already saturated systems due to the 2025 rains, is expected to produce one of the most expansive inundations in recent decades. This convergence of conditions has been described as a “rare” and “landmark inundation” event, placing the Delta in a state of full ecological expression.
Exceptional floodwaters are spreading further through the Okavango Delta this year, creating one of the most expansive inundations in recent memory
“What makes this year particularly significant is the sequence of hydrological events that has unfolded over the past two seasons,” says Ross Exler, AG Okavango Delta safari expert. “An above-average local rainfall year in 2025 was followed by a strong flood, while 2026 has already brought exceptionally heavy rains ahead of what is expected to be another major inundation. As a result, parts of the Delta are receiving incoming floodwaters while already holding water levels comparable to the peak of the 2025 flood season.” These unusually saturated base conditions are allowing the 2026 flood to spread faster and further through the system, intensifying the scale and reach of the inundation.
This is not simply a seasonal rise in water levels. It is a system-wide transformation that reshapes landscapes, redistributes wildlife, and changes how travellers experience one of Africa’s most important wilderness areas.
The significance of a year like this lies in how completely it changes the atmosphere of the Delta, says Exler. “When the water arrives in volume, the entire system changes character,” he explains. “You feel it everywhere – in the movement of animals, the opening of channels, the soundscape, even the pace at which you travel through the landscape.”
A system defined by water in the desert
The Okavango Delta is one of the world’s most unusual ecosystems. It is an inland delta, formed where the Okavango River flows into the sands of the Kalahari Desert rather than the sea. This geological structure creates a permanent oasis in an otherwise dry landscape, spreading across 6,000km² to 15,000km², depending on water levels. Channels, lagoons, floodplains and islands shift constantly with the movement of water, constantly changing the rhythm of travel through the Delta.
New channels to little-visited areas will bring delightful wildlife experiences
A flood that begins far away from the Okavango Delta
The Okavango’s floodwaters originate in the Angolan Highlands. The river travels more than 1,600 kilometres before reaching Botswana, arriving months after the rains. Floodwaters typically reach the Delta around May and peak in June and July, when surrounding landscapes are at their driest.
In 2026, above-average rainfall upstream has intensified this process. Reports note a “stronger, earlier flood cycle” driven by rainfall in Angola and Botswana. Experts describe the 2026 inundation as the result of a powerful convergence of upstream inflows, local rainfall and already saturated ground conditions following heavy rains in both the Angolan Highlands and the Delta itself. “This is all on the heels of excellent 2025 rain and flood seasons,” says Exler.
As the flood pulse moves through the system, water is spreading more quickly and more widely, reconnecting channels and revitalising landscapes that have remained dry for years. For travellers, years like this reveal the Okavango at full expression.
The 2026 flood is allowing mokoro journeys deep into the Delta’s flooded interiors, where travel becomes quieter and more immersive
What makes 2026 a peak flood year in the Okavango Delta
For those visiting the Okavango this year, the experience will be defined by water. Mokoros and boats are moving into areas rarely accessible during lower flood years, while wildlife adapts to expanding floodplains and newly connected channels.
Flooding in the Okavango follows natural cycles, but some years stand out. This year’s combination of heavy upstream rainfall, local precipitation and already saturated conditions is expected to produce unusually high water levels. In practical terms, the Delta will expand further, fill more completely and remain inundated for longer.
This year’s flood is allowing travellers to explore parts of the Delta rarely accessible in drier seasons
How the Okavango Delta expands and transforms
As floodwaters move through the Delta, main channels fill first, followed by secondary waterways before water spills into surrounding floodplains. Channels shift, new waterways form, and floodplains become temporary wetlands. Water pushes into woodland and across terrain that is usually dry.
Wetland plants expand into previously upland areas as the Delta becomes a more continuous system of water and islands. For travellers, this changes both access and perspective. The landscape becomes more fluid, and movement follows the water.
In peak flood years, the Okavango transforms into a vast mosaic of channels, lagoons and isolated islands surrounded by water
The ecological importance of high water
Flooding is the foundation of the Okavango’s ecological system. It redistributes nutrients, supports plant growth and creates habitats for a wide range of species. Permanent channels support aquatic life, while seasonal floodplains provide grazing for herbivores, and elevated islands sustain woodland ecosystems.
High water years amplify these dynamics. Floodplains become more productive, habitats expand, and wildlife movement increases. The result is a system operating at peak productivity.
High flood levels are reshaping wildlife movement across the Delta. Elephants have no trouble adapting quickly to deeper channels and flooded plains
Wildlife response to rising water
The Okavango supports an extraordinary density and diversity of wildlife. “Because the Okavango provides a mix of habitats, including the optimal habitat for many species, the abundance of resident species is world-class,” says Delta expert Exler.
Rising waters will reshape wildlife movement and concentrate activity along islands and dry ground
During the flood season, herbivores move toward newly flooded grazing areas while predators follow prey. Wildlife also concentrates on higher ground where water is limited, creating predictable movement patterns and exceptional sightings. Species that depend on water, such as hippos and crocodiles, coexist with terrestrial animals that move between islands and floodplains.
A buffalo moves through floodwaters in the Okavango Delta. This year will bring one of the most expansive inundation seasons in recent years, as rising water reshapes grazing patterns across the landscape
A landscape designed for exploration
The Okavango is known for the variety of ways it can be explored. Its waterways allow for movement by boat and mokoro, while islands and drier areas support vehicle and walking safaris. The mokoro remains one of the defining Delta experiences, gliding quietly through narrow channels among lilies, reeds and papyrus.
The Okavango’s waterways support a rich aquatic ecosystem that expands dramatically during high flood years
In high flood years, water-based access expands significantly. “In a normal flood year, water-based activities are more restricted to permanently flooded channels,” says Exler. “This year, many channels that do not typically flood will become navigable, and will provide a rare experience to venture into savannah and woodland by water. This allows for a very unique water-based game-viewing experience.”
Floodwaters also connect parts of the Delta that are otherwise isolated, opening routes into remote regions rarely accessible during drier years. For travellers, this means exploring landscapes available under exceptional flood conditions.
Flooding brings more opportunities for water-based wildlife viewing
A season shaped by water
Tourism in the Okavango is closely linked to the flood cycle. During peak inundation, water-based activities dominate, and wildlife viewing conditions are extended as animals respond to changing water distribution across the system.
Unlike rivers that rise and fall rapidly, the Okavango’s flood spreads gradually, sustaining productive habitats over long periods. Years like 2026 represent a distinct phase in the Delta’s cycle. Travel becomes more water-based, wildlife patterns become more defined and the landscape itself feels larger and more interconnected.
“This is also an opportunity to experience a rare event, which has an outsized impact on the form and function of the Delta ecosystem,” says Exler.
Flood-adapted species such as red lechwe thrive in the Okavango’s seasonal wetlands and expanding floodplain
A Delta at full expression
The Okavango is a system built on movement and change. In 2026, the Delta is expected to reach one of its most expansive states in recent memory. Water levels are rising across the system. Channels are opening. Floodplains are filling. Wildlife is responding.
“This flood is going to reach channels that only the elders in local communities remember seeing filled,” says Exler. “It will become a benchmark flood – one that people talk about for years, possibly decades, because of the sheer scale of water moving through the system.”
This is the Delta in its most complete state – a landscape shaped by water, operating at scale and offering a luxury safari experience defined by immersion, access and ecological richness.
Floodwaters are transforming woodland habitats across the Delta, creating dynamic landscapes for guided walking safaris
Further reading
Plan your Okavango Delta safari: when to go, where to stay and how to experience Botswana’s iconic inland oasis in intimate camps
The Okavango Delta is an enormous watery oasis, home to an astonishing variety of wildlife and host to some of the best Botswana safaris. Here’s all the insight you need into understanding its ecological and conservation significance
Check out this fantastic gallery of images by Hannes Lochner, which will have you booking your Okavango Delta (Botswana) safari with us and packing your bags
Moremi Game Reserve lies at the heart of the Okavango Delta and is the only formally protected section of the Delta. Read more about Moremi here
Africa’s migratory species sustain ecosystems and livelihoods: From zebras to whales, their movements regenerate landscapes, support biodiversity, and underpin tourism, food security, and cultural heritage.
Ten remarkable migrations define the continent’s natural rhythm: Including the Great Wildebeest Migration, Botswana’s zebra trek, Zambia’s Kasanka Bat Migration, and South Africa’s Sardine Run, each is a spectacle of survival and renewal.
Seasonal rains and resources guide these journeys: Whether following fresh grass, insects, ripened fruit, or ocean currents, migrations see species adapting with Africa’s changing climates and habitats.
Protecting migratory corridors is essential: Conservation tourism, protected areas, and community-led efforts are vital in preserving these age-old natural highways for future generations.
Migratory animals are vital to Africa’s ecological balance. They drive natural cycles across borders and biomes. They regulate ecosystems, disperse seeds and fertilise soils. Their seasonal movements connect distant landscapes, ensuring the renewal of grasslands, wetlands and oceans. Yet their importance extends beyond ecology: they support food security, safari tourism, and cultural identity for communities across the continent.
Some of these migrations are among the most significant natural events on Earth. From birds and bats to whales and wildebeest, the continent’s migratory species draw tourists who wish to witness these bucket-list spectacles in person. Ethical safaris can now bring travellers face to face with nature’s great journeys without leaving a heavy footprint.
Here are 10 great African migrations worthy of your bucket list:
Burchell’s zebras cross the waters of Moremi Game Reserve, in the Delta
Two distinct migrations occur: one between Chobe and Nxai Pan, and another linking the Okavango Delta with the Makgadikgadi Pans. From December to March, rains turn the salt pans emerald-green, drawing zebras to graze and foal before they trek north as the land dries. Flamingos and springbok share these ephemeral plains, shimmering in heat haze and mirage.
Zebras on the move in Botswana
Why they migrate: To follow the rains and access seasonal grazing, ensuring water and nutrition for the herds and their young. Best time to go: December to March for the lush Makgadikgadi Pans and foaling season; May to July for returning herds and predator action. Where to go: Visit Makgadikgadi Pan, Nxai Pan or the Boteti River area. One significant benefit of setting out on an African zebra migration safari is that it is most dramatic during Botswana’s low tourism season, meaning lower lodge rates and fewer safari vehicles. Experiencing the annual occurrence on a mobile safari is the quintessential migration experience, allowing travellers to trace portions of their long, wild journey.
2. The Great Wildebeest Migration – Tanzania and Kenya
A wildebeest river crossing in the Serengeti
Across the Serengeti National Park and Maasai Mara National Reserve, one of Earth’s greatest natural dramas unfolds: the Great Wildebeest Migration. Each year, over a million wildebeest, joined by zebra and gazelle, move in a circular rhythm dictated by rain and grass – travelling a total of 800km or more during each cycle. From January’s calving season on the southern Serengeti’s nutrient-rich plains to the perilous Mara River crossings in August, their instinct to follow renewal turns the landscape into a living theatre of survival.
The herds begin in Tanzania’s Ndutu area in January, sweeping northward through the Western Corridor and Grumeti, reaching Kenya’s Maasai Mara by midyear. Come November, they journey south once more, the cycle unbroken.
Braving the Mara River
Why they migrate: To follow seasonal rains and fresh grazing across the Serengeti–Mara ecosystem, ensuring survival and reproduction in changing conditions. Best time to go: February for calving in Ndutu; June–July for the Grumeti River crossings; August–October for the Mara River crossings drama. Where to go: Join a mobile migration camp or stay in key locations – Ndutu, Grumeti, or the Mara Triangle – to follow the herds’ path. Balloon safaris, guided safaris and remote camps offer unforgettable front-row seats.
3. Liuwa Plain wildebeest and antelope migration – Zambia
Wildebeest in Liuwa Plain National Park
Far from the crowds, on Zambia’s remote western horizon, Liuwa Plain National Park hosts Africa’s second-largest wildebeest migration – around 45,000 blue wildebeest sweeping across silvered grasslands, accompanied by zebra, oribi and red lechwe. Managed by African Parks and the Barotse Royal Establishment, Liuwa’s revival tells a story of conservation triumph. Once decimated by poaching, it now thrives with returning predators – hyena clans, wild dogs, cheetah and lion prides descended from the legendary Lady Liuwa.
Driven by November rains, the wildebeest and antelope herds move with the storms in search of grazing, echoing the seasonal pulse of the Zambezi floodplains. The park’s vastness – unmarred by roads or crowds – makes this migration an experience of pure solitude.
Why they migrate: To track seasonal rainfall and reach the nutrient-rich grazing that follows the first rains across the Zambezi floodplains. Best time to go: November to April, when rains bring green grass, new life and the peak of the migration. Where to go: Liuwa Plain National Park. Guided drives and walks offer exclusive access to this unspoiled wilderness – a rare place where solitude and spectacle still coexist. Liuwa Plain offers excellent wildlife safaris.
4. The Great Nile Migration – South Sudan and Ethiopia
Tian in Boma and Badingilo National Parks
In the vast, little-known wilderness of South Sudan and Ethiopia, a natural wonder long hidden by conflict and isolation has been revealed – the world’s largest land mammal migration. Each year, an estimated six million antelope – including white-eared kob, tiang, Mongalla gazelle and reedbuck – move across the Boma–Badingilo–Jonglei landscape, a 200,000 km² ecosystem (including Boma and Badingilo National Parks) that stretches east of the Nile and into Ethiopia’s Gambella National Park. This is the Great Nile Migration.
This immense migration, newly confirmed by aerial surveys led by African Parks and the Government of South Sudan, surpasses even East Africa’s Serengeti–Mara movement in scale. The herds follow ancient floodplains and seasonal rains between January and June, painting the plains in motion as they move north and east in search of fresh grazing. Among them, predators and scavengers shadow the flow.
Tiang seen from the air
Why they migrate: To track seasonal rainfall and the fresh grazing that follows the shifting floodplains. Best time to go: The great herds cross the grasslands and wetlands from January to June Where to go: The migration takes place across the Boma and Badingilo National Parks in South Sudan, and Gambella National Park in Ethiopia. The parks are not easily accessible to the general public, and the migration happens across vast, remote areas. Therefore, it is not possible to visit these parks to see the migration. The migration has only recently been surveyed from the air to confirm its scale. However, a pilot tourism project in Maruwa, in Boma NP, is currently being developed, and Gambella is accessible through exclusive chartered aircraft safaris.
5. Kasanka Bat Migration – Zambia
8 million straw-coloured fruit bats take part in the Kasanka Bat Migration
When dusk falls over Kasanka National Park, Zambia, the sky comes alive. From late October to December, around 8 million straw-coloured fruit bats – the largest mammal migration on Earth – descend upon a single patch of swamp forest. Drawn from across central Africa, these nocturnal nomads follow the ripening of wild fruits such as musuku, fig and mango.
The Kasanka Bat Migration unfolds in Kasanka’s evergreen mushitu forest. By day, the bats hang from the trees, cloaking branches in motionless mass. At twilight, they erupt in clouds, their flight paths carving ribbons across the sky. And at sunrise, they flock back to their roosts in a kaleidoscope of wing beats and sunrays.
Why they migrate: Food – their seasonal feast in the fruiting forests of Kasanka. Best time to go: Early November to mid-December, when the colony is at its peak. Where to go: Kasanka National Park. Visit the various hides in the park, where you can witness sunrises and sunsets silhouetting millions of wings against the miombo canopy.
6. Rift Valley flamingo migration – Tanzania and Kenya
Flamingos in Lake Nakuru
Across East Africa’s ancient Rift Valley, shallow soda lakes shimmer pink with life. Here, millions of lesser flamingos gather in synchrony – their curved bills filtering cyanobacteria from saline waters. These ethereal birds drift between Lakes Bogoria and Nakuru in Kenya and Natron in Tanzania, migrating as water levels shift and feeding grounds bloom with microscopic algae. Lake Natron in northern Tanzania remains a regular breeding site, where the mineral flats harden into nursery islands safe from predators. Yet this fragile rhythm faces disruption – rising rainfall and dilution of the soda lakes threaten the flamingos’ delicate food balance and nesting zones.
Flamingos in flight over Lake Natron
Why they migrate: To feed on nutrient-rich cyanobacteria and to breed when lake chemistry aligns. Best time to go: June to October, when dry-season mirages and reduced rainfall reveal vast flocks. Where to go: Kenya’s Lake Bogoria and Lake Nakuru, or Tanzania’s remote Lake Natron. Travellers can fly over red waters and flamingo colonies on a helicopter safari. Witnessing massive flocks of flamingos taking flight against the backdrop of Ol Doinyo Lengai volcano is an experience for the books!
7. Whale Migrations – Southern Africa
Humpback whale
Every winter, the Southern Hemisphere’s great whales journey north along Africa’s coastlines, tracing ancient “blue corridors” through the ocean. Southern right whales leave their Antarctic feeding grounds in June, seeking South Africa’s temperate shallows to calve and nurse. Humpback whales follow similar routes, travelling up to 25,000 kilometres from the icy Southern Ocean to the subtropical bays of Mozambique, Tanzania and Kenya.
From Hermanus to Aliwal Shoal, these giants breach and tail-slap, echoing haunting songs that carry through the surf. But their journeys are fraught: shifting ocean temperatures and declining krill stocks threaten their feeding cycles and body condition.
Southern right whale off the coast of Hermanus, South Africa
Why they migrate: The whales head to warmer waters or their newborns, and the safety of calm coastal waters Best time to go: June to November for humpbacks and southern rights along South Africa’s Whale Coast. Mozambique’s Inhambane and Zanzibar’s southern shores offer epic sightings from July to October. Where to go: From land-based lookouts in Hermanus, Gansbaai, Plettenberg Bay and Zanzibar, or on ethical boat safaris in Sodwana and Watamu. False Bay and Kleinbaai, are also well known for land-based and boat-based viewing.
8. Migratory birds – across the continent
European bee-eater
Each year, the skies above Africa become invisible highways for millions of migratory birds. Species such as barn swallow, steppe eagle, Amur falcon, European roller and white stork traverse thousands of kilometres. These journeys follow the shifting seasons – birds flying north to Europe and Asia to visit temperate climes, then south to escape the northern winter and feed in Africa’s rich wetlands, savannahs, and deltas. Around 185 species fly from Europe and Asia to southern Africa alone.
The East African Rift Valley and the Sahara are crucial corridors, while the Mediterranean bottleneck at Gibraltar channels flocks in waves so vast they seem to cloud the horizon. Some raptors ride thermals for hours each day; others, like the tiny willow warbler, could go 2 days without food or rest when crossing the sea.
Why they migrate: To seek out better food sources and optimal conditions for breeding. Some breed in their African destinations while others breed in the north. Most migrants are insect- or seed-eaters, travelling thousands of miles as the seasons change to seek out resources. Most Palearctic migrants breed in the northern hemisphere and spend the non-breeding season in Africa. A smaller number, known as intra-African migrants, breed and move within Africa following seasonal rains and food availability. Where to go: Kenya’s Rift Valley lakes from September to April; Botswana’s Okavango Delta in summer; and South Africa’s wetlands and savannahs in the austral spring. The Zambezi floodplains also host large numbers of Palearctic waders and terns in the wet season.
Amur falcons are one of hundreds of species that make the annual flight across hemispheres
9. Barbel Run – Botswana
A frenzy of barbel during the Barbel Run
When the Okavango Delta in Botswana absorbs the floodwaters each year, the underwater plains of the Panhandle erupt with life. The Barbel Run – Africa’s hidden migration – is a frenzy of silver and muscle as catfish (Clarias gariepinus) surge upstream, churning the shallows in pursuit of smaller fish fleeing the advancing waters.
The barbel creates an intense feeding chain. Tigerfish slash through the bait balls, birds dive-bomb from above, and tourists gather to witness the spectacle.
Exploring the waterways of the Okavango Delta
Why they migrate: Triggered by rising water and temperature, barbels move en masse to spawn and hunt as the delta floods. Best time to go: August to October, when water clarity peaks and predator activity intensifies. Where to go: The Okavango Panhandle. Guided mokoro or boat excursions offer front-row seats to this underwater carnival.
10. The Sardine Run – South Africa and Mozambique
A sardine bait ball in the Indian Ocean
Each winter, between May and July, South Africa’s eastern coastline hosts a dramatic natural display – the Sardine Run. Billions of sardines (Sardinops sagax) surge northward from the cold waters of the Agulhas Bank to KwaZulu-Natal and Mozambique, driven by seasonal currents and the promise of spawning grounds.
The sea churns with life as dolphins, sharks, gannets, and whales converge in a feeding frenzy. The sardines, forming shimmering bait balls up to 20 metres across, twist through turquoise surf under aerial and underwater assaults.
Why they migrate: A genetically distinct subpopulation follows the cooling winter currents to breed – an instinctive annual journey. Best time to go: June to July, when the run peaks off South Africa’s Wild Coast. Where to go: From a dive boat at Port St Johns or Coffee Bay (both in South Africa), where divers hover amid swirling silver clouds – a cathedral of movement beneath the waves.
Final thoughts
Africa’s great migrations are the continent’s lifeblood, connecting landscapes and species across invisible frontiers. Yet every flight path, river course and ancient trail now depends on our willingness to protect it. By supporting conservation-driven lodges, protected areas and community projects, travellers help safeguard these natural highways. Supporting conservation-focused lodges, parks and community-led initiatives offers a way to keep these wild journeys alive.
Further reading
Botswana’s zebra migrations: Botswana hosts two zebra migrations, one of which is the longest mammal migration in Africa. The zebras travel in search of water and grazing
The Great Wildebeest Migration explained: The Great Wildebeest Migration is the quintessential African safari experience. Here’s our detailed guide on everything you need to know
Africa’s migratory animals under threat: Africa’s migratory animals – from wildebeest & birds, to dugongs & whales – are under threat due to habitat loss and climate change, according to a UN report
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
Once upon a time …
There was an American lady who spent 53 daystravelling solo in Africa. She journeyed to Tanzania, Mozambique, Malawi and South Africa.
To better understand the vast Serengeti, rather than simply witness it, she immersed herself in the philosophy of guiding and learning to track and understand animal behaviour. She marvelled at huge skies, black-maned lions and absolute luxury in Tswalu Kalahari, and she tracked pangolins in the emerging safari haven of Mozambique’s Gorongosa. Then she visited Malawi’s Liwonde, Nkhotakota and the Big 5 Majete to witness some of Africa’s greatest conservation success stories – the restoration of once-poached reserves into naturally behaving ecosystems where people and wildlife thrive.
Barbara is currently on the final leg of her sojourn in South Africa’s Kalahari Desert. She is enjoying hands-on conservation work – monitoring camera traps, anti-poaching patrols and updating field observations for the area’s predator population.
Amazingly, many of her stays have been in empty or near-empty lodges. Barbara chose to travel outside the prime safari season to avoid crowds and enjoy exclusive, unhurried wildlife encounters.
Her safari was compiled by our safari expert Stef and managed remotely by our 24/7 concierge crew.
Did you know some elephants mine underground? On Kenya’s Mount Elgon, elephants disappear into volcanic caves at night, navigating pitch-black lava tunnels to chip salt-rich rock from the walls with their tusks. Scientists say this behaviour is unique in the animal kingdom, and may explain why these elephants have unusually short, worn tusks. This is a survival strategy for this population of elephants, of which there are only a few hundred left. Heavy rainfall strips minerals from Mount Elgon’s soils, forcing elephants to seek sodium deep underground. Yet another glimpse into the wondrous and bizarre of our planet.
Today, this bizarre Earth wishes Sir David Attenborough a happy 100th birthday: a fitting tribute to the man who fundamentally changed how the world sees wildlife. By blending science, storytelling and an intimate view into animal behaviour, Attenborough has turned distant ecosystems into something personal and urgent, inspiring generations to care about conservation. We try to do the same here at Africa Geographic.
This week, we feature our penultimate weekly selection of Photographer of the Year 2026 photos. And for those wondering whether now is the right time to travel, we explore 10 reliable African safaris that offer seamless journeys, expert guiding, and clarity amid global uncertainty. We also spotlight South Africa, a country where Big Five safaris, dramatic coastlines, world-class food, and unforgettable landscapes come together in one remarkable journey.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
PENULTIMATE GALLERY
Here are our top entries for Week 11 of Photographer of the Year, as chosen by our judges! Winners will head on a chimp-trekking safari to Nyungwe, Rwanda
RELIABLE SAFARIS
Where to travel in Africa now: 10 reliable safari destinations offering seamless travel, expert guiding, and wonderful wild experiences – even in uncertain times
SOUTH AFRICA
A South Africa safari offers the world in one country, from the Big 5 & luxury lodges of Greater Kruger to the fine dining and cosmopolitan pizazz of Cape Town
Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas
Botswana + Namibia landscapes and wildlife – 16 days
The best of Namibia and Botswana. This journey blends the freedom of a Namibian self-drive with the ease of a fly-in Botswana safari, from towering red dunes, ancient cultures and desert-adapted wildlife to the wildlife-rich floodplains and forested islands of the Okavango Delta and Chobe River, home to prolific predators and abundant wildlife.
Okavango Delta celebration – 11 days
Immerse yourself in two remote private concessions in Botswana’s Okavango Delta on this extended safari, a rare opportunity to slow down and feel the pulse of one of Africa’s last true wildernesses. Fly, drive, boat and glide by mokoro through vast waterways, encountering wildlife at every turn and savouring unforgettable moments of absolute safari bliss.
Seasoned AG safari guest Roger, from the UK, enjoyed a rather wet, but unforgettable, safari to Laikipia and the greater Maasai Mara ecosystem, Kenya:
Kenya, March 2026. “The day we were leaving, Christian received a phone call from our first camp telling us it was flooded, and not to come!! Christian made several calls and managed to get us into two alternate camps. Without his extensive network and knowledge, this wouldn’t have been possible with any normal agent at such short notice. He saved the day!
Our first stop was Ol Pejeta, where we saw a number of rhinos, including the last two remaining northern white rhinos. Our next stop was Laikipia Wilderness Camp, which we had visited 3 years ago. We had seen Giza, the black leopard, but only at night. This time, we also saw her during the day. We also saw 10 different leopards during the 4-night stay. It was my first time seeing wild dogs swimming across the river. Next, we went to Oltepesi in the Mara. Due to the heavy rains, we were limited to the areas we could access. However, we had good sightings, including a failed attempt by lions to hunt a buffalo, and lion cubs jumping across a river. The final stop was Saruni Basecamp in the Naboisho Conservancy. Notable sightings included a newborn giraffe and buffalo. Considering the fact that we had rain every day, it was still a great trip. It could have been a disastrous start, but Christian rescued it.”
Got a wildlife moment that gave you goosebumps? We want to see it. From heart-stopping predator action to once-in-a-lifetime rare sightings, we’re looking for Africa’s most unforgettable wildlife clips – no fancy gear required. Send us your best African wildlife videos for a chance to feature in our monthly Top Wildlife Clips selection. (02:07) Watch here
Our Photographer of the Year 2026 closes for submissions at midnight on 7 May. The overall winner, runners-up, and their partners will journey to Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda, staying at the newly built Munazi Lodge, the only lodge inside the park. Expect chimpanzee trekking, canopy walks high above the forest floor, waterfall hikes, and encounters with black-and-white colobus monkeys in one of Africa’s most biodiverse montane forests. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2026 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Winners will be announced in June.
Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week
Africa’s top safari regions offer low-density travel across vast, well-managed wilderness areas.
Okavango Delta, South Luangwa, and Serengeti deliver reliable wildlife viewing with expert guiding.
Established reliable safaris and logistics ensure seamless journeys between camps, airstrips, and remote ecosystems.
Namibia, Liuwa Plain, and Kafue provide space, solitude, and emerging conservation success stories.
Travel here directly supports conservation, making each journey both meaningful and impactful.
Want a safari that runs smoothly, without the stress of an uncertain world? Explore our ready-made reliable safaris here, safe for travel right now. Or let our travel experts design a seamless, luxury safari for you.
Now is the best time to travel to Africa
Travel requires trust: in timing, in place, and in the people who guide you once you arrive. But there are times when global travel feels uncertain. Yet across Africa’s great wilderness areas, little has changed. Seasons hold. Wildlife follows ancient patterns. Safari operations continue unabated.
Safari, by its nature, is a controlled and well-managed form of travel. The continent’s leading destinations operate within defined ecosystems, with established logistics, low visitor densities, and experienced teams on the ground. For travellers seeking clarity, simplicity and reliability, a safari is the most consistent kind of holiday, offering:
Low-density tourism across vast private concessions and protected area
Strong conservation management, often under organisations such as African Parks and well-established private reserves
Streamlined safari logistics, from charter flights to lodge-based itineraries
High-quality guiding, which defines the experience as much as the wildlife itself
Direct conservation impact, where tourism revenue sustains ecosystems and communities
We’ve gathered our list of some of the most dependable safari experiences on the continent right now, places where logistics, conservation, and wilderness combine to offer a confident and deeply rewarding journey.
Okavango Delta, Botswana
The Okavango Delta remains one of Africa’s most precisely managed wilderness systems. Seasonal floodwaters transform the landscape between May and September, creating a mosaic of channels, islands, and floodplains that support exceptional biodiversity.
Safari here is structured around water and exclusivity. Camps are widely spaced within private concessions, ensuring minimal vehicle traffic and consistent wildlife encounters without crowding. Activities are varied – mokoro excursions, boating, walking safaris, and game drives – allowing for a layered understanding of the ecosystem.
Planning is key. Peak flood season offers the most iconic Delta experience, while the drier months concentrate wildlife on shrinking islands. Access is seamless via light aircraft from Maun, with most itineraries combining multiple concessions.
The Delta works because it is both predictable and dynamic – flood cycles are reliable, but each year reshapes a new experience.
Mokoro exploration in the Okavango Delta
South Luangwa National Park, Zambia
South Luangwa is one of Africa’s most well-rounded and reliable safari destinations, defined by the Luangwa River and its seasonal oxbow lagoons. Wildlife densities are high, particularly during the dry season from July to October, when animals concentrate along the riverbanks.
The area is best known as the birthplace of the walking safari, and guiding standards remain among the highest on the continent. This is not incidental – it reflects a long-established culture of mentorship and field-based training.
The Nsefu sector, in particular, offers a quieter, more traditional experience, with fewer camps and strong historical continuity.
South Luangwa works because it balances authenticity with consistency. It is not overly curated, yet it delivers reliable wildlife viewing and some of Africa’s finest guiding.
Abundant buffalo herds and hippo pods in South Luangwa
Serengeti ecosystem, Tanzania
The Serengeti is known for the Great Migration, but the ecosystem is far more complex. Seasonal movement defines the experience, with herds shifting between the southern plains, central Serengeti, and northern corridors into the Mara.
The northern circuit allows for efficient travel between key regions, while private concessions and mobile camps offer access to migration routes without the congestion seen in public areas.
Timing dictates everything. Calving season (January–March) offers predator action on the southern plains, while river crossings typically occur mid-year in the north.
The Serengeti is a fail-safe destination due to its scale and structure. Even at peak migration, there are ways to experience it without compromise – provided the itinerary is designed with precision.
More than just the migration in the Serengeti – offering one of Africa’s most reliable safaris
Greater Kruger, South Africa
The Greater Kruger system combines accessibility with consistently high-quality wildlife viewing. Kruger National Park and its surrounding reserves allow guided walks, and night drives, and within certain private concessions, off-roading driving.
Big 5 sightings are a particular strength, supported by long-term monitoring and experienced guides. Seasonal variation influences vegetation and wildlife movement, but good game-viewing is possible year-round.
Malaria considerations can be managed, and infrastructure is among the best in Africa. Direct flights into regional airstrips simplify access significantly.
Greater Kruger works because it is dependable. Logistics are straightforward, guiding is professional, and wildlife viewing is consistently strong. It is often the most practical starting point for reliable safari travel.
Elephants come down to drink in Sabi Sands Game Reserve, Greater Kruger
Namib-Naukluft National Park, Namibia
Namib-Naukluft is one of Africa’s largest protected areas, but it is Sossusvlei that defines the experience: towering red dunes, white clay pans, and stark shadow and light that shift with precision through the day. This is not a wildlife-driven safari. It is about landscape, contrast, and space.
Early mornings are essential. The dunes are best climbed at first light. Deadvlei, with its skeletal camelthorn trees, offers one of Namibia’s most recognisable scenes: stark, controlled, and entirely silent.
Access is straightforward via Windhoek, with a range of well-run lodges on private concessions bordering the park.
This region strips reliable safaris back to their essentials: distance, stillness, and a landscape that does not compete for attention. Think minimal infrastructure, and a clear emphasis on environmental preservation in a controlled, self-contained wilderness.
Sossusvlei dunes, Namibia
Liuwa Plain National Park, Zambia
Liuwa Plain offers excellent and reliable safaris and hosts the second-largest wildebeest migration in Africa. It is one of Africa’s most compelling conservation destinations. Once heavily depleted, the park has been restored under African Parks management, with wildlife populations steadily increasing.
The landscape is defined by open grasslands and seasonal flooding, which support its lesser-known but significant wildebeest migration. Predators, particularly hyenas, are a key feature of the ecosystem. Access remains limited, which is part of its appeal. Camps are small, visitor numbers are low, and the experience retains a strong sense of isolation.
The green season (November to May) is particularly rewarding, with dramatic skies and migratory movement.
Liuwa Plain is less well-known and therefore not overrun by tourists, allowing visitors to witness an ecosystem that has finally achieved equilibrium, offering one of Africa’s most reliable safaris.
Wildebeest in Liuwa Plain National Park
Laikipia Plateau, Kenya
Laikipia in Kenya represents a shift in safari thinking. Rather than a single protected area, it is a network of private conservancies and community lands that collectively support high wildlife densities and innovative conservation models.
The region is known for species diversity, including black rhino, Grevy’s zebra, and African wild dog. It is also home to various black panthers: melanistic leopards that have been well documented in the area.
Activities extend beyond traditional game drives to include walking, horse riding, and cultural engagement. Laikipia is not a wilderness isolated from people, but one shaped by coexistence and long-term stewardship. It is a land of staggering beauty & biodiversity – a mosaic of wildlife conservancies.
Rhinos under towering fever trees in Laikipia
Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda
Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda is a leading gorilla trekking destination in Africa – a place where critically endangered mountain gorillas flourish. Gorilla trekking in Volcanoes National Park is one of the most tightly regulated wildlife experiences in the world. Permits are limited, group sizes are small, and trekking is well structured.
The terrain is demanding – steep slopes, dense vegetation, variable weather – but the structure ensures both conservation integrity and visitor safety.
Encounters are time-limited, typically one hour with a habituated group, but the experience is intense and focused.
Rwanda’s infrastructure is efficient, with Kigali serving as a convenient gateway and relatively short transfer times to the park.
Volcanoes works because of control. Every aspect of the experience is managed, resulting in a consistent, high-quality encounter that prioritises both wildlife and visitor experience.
Gorilla trekking in Volcanoes National Park
Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe
Mana Pools National Park is defined by the Zambezi River and its floodplains, where seasonal dynamics shape both access and wildlife distribution. It is known for walking and photographic safaris, iconic elephants, rich birdlife, and dreamlike light. The dry season (June–October) offers the most stable conditions, with animals concentrating along the river.
The park allows for a slower, more deliberate approach to wildlife viewing. Elephants, often seen standing on their hind legs to feed, are a defining feature. Camps range from simple to high-end, but all operate within a low-density framework.
Mana Pools prioritises experience over infrastructure. It is not heavily developed, and that preserves its character as one of Africa’s most immersive wilderness areas.
An elephant visitor in camp, Mana Pools
Kafue National Park, Zambia
Kafue National Park in Zambia is one of Africa’s largest national parks, yet it remains under-visited. Its diversity is significant, from river systems to woodland and the Busanga Plains – an area known for seasonal flooding and predator concentrations.
Recent conservation investment has improved protection and infrastructure, particularly in key areas such as Busanga, where lion and cheetah sightings are frequent.
The park is best approached as a multi-region destination, with itineraries that combine the northern and southern sectors. Access typically involves light aircraft and some road transfers.
Kafue works because of its trajectory. It is improving, expanding, and becoming increasingly reliable – without losing the sense of space that defines it.
A leopard in Kafue National Park
A steady continent
Africa’s safari destinations do not operate on short-term cycles. They are shaped by long-term ecological processes, conservation investment, and accumulated expertise. That is what makes them reliable.
Travel here is not without complexity, but it is structured, intentional, and supported by systems refined over decades. For travellers seeking clarity in uncertain times, that structure offers something rare: a journey that is both predictable in its logistics and unpredictable in its moments. For travellers seeking clarity in uncertain times, these journeys stand out as some of Africa’s most reliable safaris.
Every river has a character, and every waterway symbolises vitality. Life in Africa revolves around its rivers, streams and lakes, defining the essence of the wildernesses they flow through. A safari can be more than game drives, so why not opt for one of the continent’s numerous safaris on and around her waters, and explore Africa through its lifeblood?
Below is a list of our favourite iconic waterways that make for epic safaris.
Okavango Delta, Botswana: Water safaris by mokoro and boat
The swampy wildlife oasis of the Okavango Delta is one of the most extraordinary safari destinations in Africa, and a ride in a mokoro is an essential part of any exploration. These traditional dugout canoes cut silently through the wetlands’ many channels, propelled by expert guides’ poles. Aside from the peaceful immersion in one’s surroundings, this is the perfect way to encounter wildlife – from elephants to frogs and everything in between. In the deeper channels and lagoons, motorboat excursions open up even more of the delta, offering a different perspective and access to areas the mokoros cannot reach.
Glide by mokoro on the waters of the Okavango DeltaDeeper delta waters can be explored by motorised boat
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe and Zambia: Rafting on Batoka Gorge’s white waters
At Victoria Falls, the mighty Zambezi River plunges 100 metres off a basalt plateau before being forced through a narrow and twisting path of Batoka Gorge. The rapids below the falls are classified as Grade V and are widely acknowledged as offering some of the best white water rafting in the world.
Adrift on inflatable rafts, armed with just a plastic oar and a lifejacket, visitors throw themselves at the river’s mercy. Nothing is quite as humbling as experiencing the sheer power of a churning river (especially while underneath it). And after the rather steep climb out of the gorge on somewhat shaky legs, a sundowner imbibed looking out over the “smoke that thunders” is a must! This is one of the most epic water safaris you’ll ever experience.
Clouds of mist over the Smoke that ThundersWhite river rafting on Batoka Gorge, Victoria Falls
Jinja, Uganda: Kayak the Nile
The Nile River is the longest in the world, and its journey begins at the edge of Lake Victoria as it spills out of the lake into a series of plunging rapids. Not much compares to the thrill of riding the tumbling waves, pitting skill against the tremendous power of the torrent. And there are plenty of long flat stretches of calm water to steady the nerves, recover the muscles and marvel at the beauty of rural Uganda.
If this sounds too much (or perhaps when one’s shoulders and arms have had enough), opt for an ice-cold drink on a sedate sunset boat cruise.
The raging waters of the River NileAdrenaline junkies can Kayak the River Nile at Jinja
Mambili and Lokoué Rivers, Odzala-Kokoua NP, Congo-Brazzaville: River cruise through the Congo Basin
In the heart of the Congo Basin, the Mambili and Lokoué rivers weave through Odzala-Kokoua National Park’s lush rainforest, offering a water safari unlike any other. A river cruise here means gliding past forested banks alive with movement – from the flicker of colourful birds to the stealthy ripple of a slender-snouted crocodile. Keep watch for breaching tiger fish, shy sitatunga antelope, water monitors, and troops of agile and grey-cheeked mangabeys. If you’re lucky, you might even glimpse the elusive De Brazza’s monkey or a forest elephant pausing for a drink. These tranquil waterways not only connect remote lodges like Camp Imbalanga but also provide one of the best vantage points for spotting the park’s rich wildlife without disturbing it. Deep within the forest, you can also bear witness to the wild activities around another water wonder: Odzala-Kokoua’s baïs, clearings in the forest where western lowland gorillas and forest buffalos head to drink. You can watch all the action from the comfort of a tree-top hide alongside these baïs.
Boating the winding waters of the Congo BasinAG’s Simon Espley and Brendan Taylor enjoy a boat cruise on the Mambili RiverSpotting a slender-snouted crocodile basking on a branch
Chobe River, Botswana and Namibia: Cruise on a riverboat
The Chobe River is Africa’s elephant Eden, its lush floodplains and surroundings home to the world’s highest density of these magnificent pachyderms. This corner of the continent is renowned for its water safaris. Explore the various channels and side creeks or meander peacefully, watching elephants snorkel and wrestle in the water. From predator to prey, the abundance of life on display along the riverbanks tinges any voyage with more than a hint of excitement.
Spot Chobe’s abundant wildlife from a riverboatSunset over Chobe
Lake Tanganyika, Tanzania: Float or dive lazy waters
Only two parks in Tanzania offer chimpanzee trekking: Gombe Stream and Mahale Mountains National Parks, and both are found on the banks of Lake Tanganyika. The terrain of these parks is mountainous, and if the chimps are particularly capricious, a trek might entail several hours of strenuous hiking. As such, there is no doubt that the only way to celebrate a successful day is to leap with joy into the cool embrace of the clear waters of the world’s longest freshwater lake. Sandy beaches are perfect for lazing the days away or soaking up romantic sunsets. Or, to make the most of water safaris to Lake Tanganyika (which hosts over 350 fish species), explore the waters by diving, snorkelling or kayaking.
The peaceful waters of Lake Tanganyika, on the edge of Gombe and Mahale National ParkExplore the waters by kayaking, diving and snorkelling
Lake Kariba, Zimbabwe and Zambia: Explore vast shorelines
The fertile shores of Lake Kariba and its fresh waters attract diverse birdlife and wildlife, including elephants, buffalo and various antelopes. Keep an eye out for lions and leopards too. Lake Kariba’s water safaris can be enjoyed in simple pleasure or luxurious style. Dozens of lodges perched on the water’s edge allow you to awaken to the copper glow of the sun rising over the endless lake. Spend the day admiring the scenery or watching elephants browse the shoreline of Lake Kariba. And at the end of the day, the calm waters are the ideal place to admire the starlit skies. There are plenty of opportunities to explore the shorelines from the water, whether on a catamaran cruise, motorboat or even a houseboat. For a wilderness retreat on the shores of Lake Kariba, visit Matusadona National Park, which is easily combined with safaris to Hwange National Park for a truly epic African safari.
Elephants enjoying the deep waters of Lake Kariba, Matusadona National ParkWhere the lake meets luxury – tranquillity on the shores of Lake Kariba, with endless viewsCruise Lake Kariba’s shorelines on a catamaran cruise or motorboat
Lake Malawi, Malawi: Barefoot safaris
Lake Malawi offers a plethora of fun for every intrepid safari goer, from the super active to the deeply relaxed. Across the shoreline of Lake Malawi, tiny beach villages and lodges offer many opportunities to explore the waters – above or below the azure ripples. Boat trips provide the perfect vantage to appreciate the lake’s blazing sunsets. Snorkel or dive beneath the surface to take in the fishy kaleidoscope darting around the rocks in the shallows. Sailing and kayaking are at the top of the list for those eager to investigate the various bays and coves along the shoreline. And for beach lovers, there is ample opportunity to lounge along Lake Malawi’s sandy shores and breathe in the crystalline waters, drink in hand.
Barefoot bliss alongside Lake MalawiSoft sandy beaches overlooking endless waters
Lake Ihema, Akagera NP, Rwanda: Birding and big game safaris from the water
Bordered by papyrus swamps and dotted with islands, Lake Ihema – Rwanda’s second-largest lake – is a sanctuary for aquatic birds and a prime spot for relaxed game viewing. Boat cruises here are unhurried affairs on this vast lake in Akagera National Park, which features the Big 5. Drift past pods of hippos, enormous Nile crocodiles, and buffaloes grazing at the shoreline. The air rings with the calls of fish eagles, kingfishers, and hamerkops, and the keen-eyed may spot jacanas tiptoeing across lily pads or even a rare shoebill in the reeds. Morning, afternoon, and sunset departures each offer their own magic – from soft dawn light catching a heron’s wings to fiery skies reflected in still waters. It’s the perfect complement to a northern Akagera game drive, rounding out your wildlife checklist with sightings only possible from the lake’s calm surface.
Boat cruises on Lake Ihema are unhurried affairsSpotting hippos from the boatElephants dip and sip in Lake Ihema
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter and more inspiration for your African safari.
From our CEO – Simon Espley
The demand for African safaris has been subdued in the last few months, due to the war in Iran and international political uncertainty. It is what it is.
That said, early booking season demand was high, and, fortunately, our booked guests are in expert hands if they have doubts or experience logistical issues with their itineraries. Ground handling operates as usual, but inbound logistical arrangements can be tweaked where necessary. Our safari experts and concierges are on hand to provide 24/7 support.
Perhaps lower visitor volumes during the upcoming peak safari season will lead to a better safari experience for those who do visit our shores. Fewer people translates into a more intimate experience, where the silence of the wilderness and unhurried wildlife encounters foster a deeper connection and sense of journey.
Here in Africa, life goes on. The Greatest Show on Earth continues unabated, and Africa continues to weave her magic, as she has done since the beginning of time.
Heatwaves have long been blamed for wildlife die-offs. But research from the Universities of Pretoria and Cape Town on heat stress in African birds shows it’s humidity that turns heat deadly. The researchers found humidity dramatically increases the risk of mass mortality in tropical species.
In South Africa, this insight helps explain a shocking event from a few years ago, when dozens of blue waxbills died during a 45°C heatwave in Phongolo Nature Reserve in KwaZulu-Natal. The study found that while these birds can tolerate even higher temperatures in dry air, humid conditions prevent effective cooling, pushing them into fatal overheating.
When humidity is factored in, the risk of die-offs rises sharply: a critical shift in how scientists understand climate threats. For Africa’s birds, the danger isn’t just rising heat, but air that no longer allows them to shed it.
This week, we help you prepare for your own time in the wild with a practical safari packing guide; and reveal new insights into the Maasai Mara’s hidden wildlife corridors uncovered by camera traps. Plus, it is the LAST WEEK TO ENTER PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR 2026. We bring you one of our final, unmissable galleries from our latest entries.
LAST WEEK TO ENTER!
It’s your last chance to enter Photographer of the Year 2026. This year’s winner will travel to Rwanda’s Nyungwe National Park, a misty rainforest alive with chimpanzees and other primates, birds, and ancient trees. Entries close at midnight on 7 May 2026. Click here to read more about the competition.
Our stories this week
UNMISSABLE PHOTOS
Our top pics for Week 10 of Photographer of the Year, as chosen by our judges!
Last chance to enter & win a chimp-trekking safari to Nyungwe, Rwanda
MARA’S HIDDEN CORRIDORS
A new camera-trap project in Kenya’s Maasai Mara has revealed how a little-seen part of the ecosystem functions
SAFARI PACKING
Packing for an African safari? Essential guide: neutral layers, sun protection, soft bags, plus tips for strict 15–20kg+ limits.
Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas
Maasai Mara specialist photographic safari, Kenya – 9 days
Fancy a guided photographic safari in Kenya’s Maasai Mara? Join award-winning photographer Arnfinn Johansen on this exclusive safari for four guests. Highlights include guided game drives with an experienced Maasai guide in a modified photographic vehicle and accommodation at Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp. Departure Dates: 20-28 November 2026
Ultimate South Luangwa – 8 days
Discover the untamed beauty of South Luangwa National Park, Zambia – a renowned leopard stronghold and the birthplace of walking safaris. Embark on expertly guided bush walks and game drives, spend a night under the stars in a secluded sleepout, and refine your photographic skills in one of Africa’s finest hides. An authentic safari experience that reconnects you with the wild at its most raw and real.
Your safari helped support the Mouse-Free Marion project.
Thanks to your safari booking with us, you have made a real difference. We’ve just donated a portion of our safari earnings to Saving Marion Island’s Seabirds: The Mouse-Free Marion Project. Africa Geographic has sponsored 19 hectares of the island via the “Sponsor a Hectare” initiative. Marion Island is approximately 30,000 hectares in size, and through this crowdfunding initiative, the project aims to raise R30 million, a part of the total funds needed to implement the eradication operation. With every hectare requiring a donation of R1,000, our sponsorship helps inch them closer to this vital target.
Saving this habitat is a conservation imperative. Marion Island is a globally important breeding site, home to millions of seabirds, including one-third of the world’s wandering albatrosses, as well as species found nowhere else on Earth. Tragically, stowaway mice accidentally introduced to Marion Island in the 19th century have impoverished the island’s habitats and are now literally eating seabird chicks and adults alive. Without intervention to remove the mice, many of these precious species are expected to become locally extinct.
A portion of every AG safari booking goes directly to vital conservation projects like these.
A rare glimpse into one of Africa’s most elusive mammals. Eye of the Pangolin follows two determined filmmakers on a continent-spanning quest to capture all four African pangolin species on film. From arid savannahs to dense jungles, their journey reveals the quiet magic of these remarkable creatures, and the urgent fight to save them from extinction. (45:00) Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2026 is open for submissions. The overall winner, runners-up, and their partners will journey to Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda, staying at the newly built Munazi Lodge, the only lodge inside the park. Expect chimpanzee trekking, canopy walks high above the forest floor, waterfall hikes, and encounters with black-and-white colobus monkeys in one of Africa’s most biodiverse montane forests. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2026 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 16 February 2026 to midnight on 7 May 2026. Judging will take place from February to June, and the winners will be announced in June.
Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week
A new camera-trap project in Kenya’s Maasai Mara National Reserve has revealed how a little-seen part of the ecosystem functions, to the benefit of conservation.
The Maasai Mara is widely understood as an open savannah ecosystem. This perception is shaped by tourism, which concentrates on daytime wildlife viewing across grassland plains. However, ecosystems are not uniform. Within the Mara are pockets of dense forest, riverine habitat and secluded valleys that are rarely observed directly. This project provides evidence that these hidden habitats are not peripheral – they are actively used by a wide range of species, including endangered black rhinos.
The project was conducted by wildlife photographer Will Burrard-Lucas in collaboration with the Maasai Mara National Reserve’s Rhino Unit, Narok County Government and The Safari Collection’s Footprint Trust. The work focused on a forested river crossing used by wildlife moving through dense vegetation.
* All photographs are by Will Burrard-Lucas, captured using his Camtraptions camera trap systems. For the full photographic narrative behind the project, see the original blog post here.
A buffalo moves through the river crossing recorded by camera traps, part of a multi-species corridor linking feeding and shelter areas in dense vegetation
Camera traps as a monitoring tool in Maasai Mara
Camera traps are remote, motion-activated cameras used to record wildlife without the need for human presence. They are particularly useful for monitoring elusive or nocturnal species, which are difficult to observe through conventional field patrols.
In this study, a camera was mounted above a river crossing, with a passive infrared sensor detecting animal movement. Multiple flashes were used to illuminate the scene at night while retaining environmental detail. This setup allowed continuous monitoring over several months. Rangers checked the system periodically to replace batteries and memory cards.
The value of this method lies in its ability to collect consistent, unbiased data. Unlike direct observation, camera traps do not depend on visibility conditions or human presence. This makes them particularly effective in dense vegetation where animals are easily missed.
Eland pass cautiously through the crossing, one of several species documented using this hidden route within the Maasai Mara’s forested habitats
Understanding rhino movement and population status
Black rhinos are critically endangered and require intensive monitoring. In the Maasai Mara, individuals are identified through ear-notching – a method where small, unique patterns are cut into the ears – and some are fitted with GPS tracking devices.
These tools generate data on individual identity and movement patterns. However, gaps remain when animals move through areas that are difficult to access or observe. The camera trap addressed this gap. Instead of repeatedly recording a single individual, it captured multiple rhinos using the same corridor. This indicates that the river crossing functions as a movement route between feeding areas.
Importantly, several individuals recorded had not been seen for extended periods. One rhino last observed in 2023 was confirmed alive through the images. This type of confirmation is critical in population monitoring. Conservation decisions rely on accurate estimates of how many animals exist and where they move. Camera-trap data strengthens these estimates by filling in observational gaps.
According to the Rhino Unit, sightings increased by 30 percent in 2025, with 27 unique individuals recorded.
A black rhino crosses the river corridor, one of several individuals recorded and used to confirm population presence after long absences from ranger sightings
Wildlife corridors and ecosystem function in Maasai Mara
A wildlife corridor is a route that animals use to move between habitats. These pathways are essential for accessing food, water and breeding areas. In fragmented or complex landscapes, corridors allow populations to remain connected.
The river crossing documented in this project functions as such a corridor. It is used not only by rhinos but by a range of species, including elephants, hippos, bushbuck, giraffe and leopard.
A tower of giraffes descends the riverbank, captured by remote cameras that reveal how even tall, visible species use concealed pathways
This diversity indicates that the corridor plays a broader ecological role. It supports movement across habitat types – from open plains to forested areas – and allows species to use different resources within the ecosystem. One of the most significant findings was the presence of a greater kudu. This species had not been recorded in the area for many years.
The confirmation of kudu presence has implications for management decisions. Reintroduction of the species had previously been considered. The new evidence suggests that a natural population persists, reducing the need for intervention.
A greater kudu crosses the river at night, the first recorded sighting in this area for many years and evidence that the species persists naturally
The role of hidden habitats in Maasai Mara
Riverine forests and dense vegetation zones often receive less attention than open savannahs. However, they provide important ecological functions.
These habitats offer shelter, shade and access to water. They also support species that avoid open areas, particularly during the day. In this case, the forested crossing enabled animals to move with reduced exposure. The project also documented nocturnal activity – a largely unobserved aspect of the Mara. Night-time movement is significant because many species adjust their behaviour to avoid heat, predators or human disturbance.
Camera traps provide one of the few ways to study this behaviour in detail.
An elephant calf follows its mother across the river, illustrating how family groups rely on sheltered corridors for safe movement through the landscape
Environmental change and risk
One image captured a rhino crossing the river during a flash flood. This event reflects a broader environmental trend in the Mara. Flash flooding has become more frequent, partly due to deforestation in upstream areas. With less vegetation to absorb rainfall, water runs off more quickly, causing rivers to rise rapidly.
This has implications for wildlife. Increased flooding can alter movement routes, damage habitat and create additional stress for animals already under pressure.
A black rhino crosses the river during a flash flood
The conservation picture
This project demonstrates how combining technology with field knowledge improves conservation outcomes. Rangers contributed detailed understanding of rhino behaviour and landscape use, while camera traps provided continuous, independent data. The integration of tools such as GPS tagging, EarthRanger tracking and camera traps allows for a more complete picture of how animals use the landscape.
This approach supports better decision-making. It helps identify key habitats, monitor population trends and detect changes that may require intervention. It also highlights that well-known ecosystems still contain poorly understood components. The Maasai Mara is one of Africa’s most studied reserves, yet this project reveals how much remains hidden.
Lions move through the crossing, demonstrating predator use of the same corridors as prey species
A documented but largely unseen Mara
The images from this work show a different aspect of the Mara – one defined by dense vegetation, nocturnal movement and concealed wildlife activity. They are also a practical demonstration of how visual documentation can contribute to scientific understanding.
By confirming the presence of missing individuals, identifying active corridors and recording rare species, the project provides data that directly supports conservation management. This is the significance of the study. It shifts attention from what is visible to what is essential – the processes and habitats that sustain wildlife populations beyond the view of most observers.
A herd of wildebeest crosses a forested river corridor rarely seen by visitors, highlighting how even common species use concealed movement routes
This interesting introduction to Kenya’s Maasai Mara will have you contacting Africa Geographic to book your next African safari. Read more about Maasai Mara here
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter and more inspiration for your African safari.
From our CEO – Simon Espley
Two weeks to go, and our 2026 Photographer of the Year has been a corker!
The quality of photos submitted this year for our annual celebration of Africa’s exuberant diversity has been through the roof! From gobsmacking avian jewels to great apes posing in dappled forest light and predators waging war, the entries have blown us away.
Entries close at midnight on 7 May, so get those photos in to stand a chance of being amongst our winners and joining me in Rwanda’s stunning Nyungwe National Park for chimp-trekking and an immersion into the abundance of life in this, Africa’s largest tract of protected high-altitude montane rainforest.
We will also search for 12 other primate species, including a mega-troop of over 400 Rwenzori pied colobus monkeys, and over 345 bird species, including 29 Albertine Rift endemics. We will teeter across the extraordinary elevated Canopy Walkway to gasp at the incredible views into the forest, and the really brave will chance the 2km zipline over the tops of the trees.
We will also learn about what makes this African Parks jewel one of the world’s greatest conservation success stories. All of this from our base at the new Munazi Lodge, the only available accommodation inside the national park.
Chimpanzees are our closest, most relatable relatives. A new long-term study from Uganda reveals just how complex – and volatile – their societies can be. Researchers in Kibale National Park documented a rare community split that escalated into sustained, coordinated violence, with former allies turning on one another in deadly raids over several years – a civil war of sorts.
The findings suggest that shifting social relationships alone can fracture even the strongest groups, offering rare insight into how conflict emerges in tightly bonded societies.
This week, we explore everything you need to know about chimpanzees, from behaviour and habitat to where to see them on safari. We also tackle the question of how safe it is to travel in Africa, and showcase our Week 9 Photographer of the Year gallery, packed with unforgettable moments from the continent.
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
INCREDIBLE PICS
Here is Gallery 1 of Photographer of the Year Week 9 – the top pics as chosen by our judges! Enter & win a chimp-trekking safari
MORE EPIC PICS
Here is Gallery 2 of our best pics for this week! There are only two weeks left to enter Photographer of the Year 2026. Don’t miss out
THE CHIMPANZEE
Everything you need to know about chimpanzees: habitat, behaviour, threats, and how to see them on an African safari
Why an African safari is one of the safest holidays you can choose? Discover low-risk, expert-led adventures in remote wilderness
Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas
Ultimate chimpanzee trekking safari – 8 days
Journey deep into Uganda’s forests to meet our closest wild relatives on this immersive chimpanzee safari, from the lush canopies of Kibale National Park to the dramatic Kyambura Gorge in Queen Elizabeth National Park. Track chimps, search for tree-climbing lions and connect with conservation and community along the way, all in the shadow of the Mountains of the Moon.
Okavango Delta and Vilanculos bush & beach safari – 12 days
An epic pairing of authentic bush camp and seaside luxury. This bush-and-beach escape begins in the Okavango Delta with game drives and mokoro excursions, led by expert Bushman guides in a predator-rich wilderness. Then, you’ll ease into barefoot bliss in Vilanculos, with white-sand beaches, warm ocean swims, and sunset dhow sails.
AG safari guests and best friends Debbie, Judy and Diane from the USA went on a special celebratory safari to South Africa, the Okavango Delta and Victoria Falls:
“Grace in the wild. Africa Geographic was amazing to work with. They tailored a trip specifically for us based on our wants and needs. They take the time to listen to you and understand what you are looking for from this sometimes once-in-a-lifetime experience. They are professional, courteous, friendly and with you every step of the way. Their job does not end until you are home. If I could give them more than 5 stars I would!”
A conservation triumph with a complicated future. Mountain gorillas have surpassed 1,000 individuals, a milestone once thought impossible. But success has brought a new dilemma: more gorillas, the same limited habitat, and rising tension within an already crowded forest. This powerful documentary follows scientists, rangers and local communities in Rwanda as they confront the next chapter in gorilla conservation, where every solution carries a cost. (52:00) Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2026 is open for submissions. The overall winner, runners-up, and their partners will journey to Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda, staying at the newly built Munazi Lodge, the only lodge inside the park. Expect chimpanzee trekking, canopy walks high above the forest floor, waterfall hikes, and encounters with black-and-white colobus monkeys in one of Africa’s most biodiverse montane forests. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2026 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 16 February 2026 to midnight on 7 May 2026. Judging will take place from February to June, and the winners will be announced in June.
Here is Gallery 2 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other gallery, follow the link: Gallery 1
Travel in Africa is about knowing when and where to go, and with whom. A few weeks too early/late or a few kilometres off course, and you could miss the greatest show on Earth. And wouldn’t that be a pity?
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We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level.
YOUR safari choice does make a difference - thank you!
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Want to visit Tsavo to witness its magic up close? Check out our 
Botswana has set a record trophy hunting quota of 430 elephants for 2026, the highest anywhere in the world. There are 
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
About Lucia Quindici
About Angus Begg
Wildlife photographer Petr Slavík was born in Mělník, Czech Republic. He is the winner of several international wildlife photography awards, including Photographer of the Year in the Czech Nature Photo competition.
Metlha Ngubevana is a Botswana-based wildlife photographer and visual storyteller who uses photography to advocate for wildlife conservation and celebrate Africa’s rich cultural heritage. He began his career as a photojournalist with Botswana’s state-owned newspaper before joining Press Photo, one of the country’s leading news agencies. Through journalism, he developed a passion for storytelling and increasingly focused on wildlife, conservation, climate change and culture.
Growing up in a small community in Israel, Amit Eshel developed a fascination with wildlife long before he picked up a camera. Nature was his playground, and his childhood was spent searching for animals, sketching wildlife and dreaming about encounters in the wild.
It’s your last chance to enter Photographer of the Year 2026. This year’s winner will travel to Rwanda’s Nyungwe National Park, a misty rainforest alive with chimpanzees and other primates, birds, and ancient trees. Entries close at midnight on 7 May 2026. 
