Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is underway. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Final judging will take place throughout the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in July 2024.
Here is Gallery 2 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other two galleries, follow the links: Gallery 1 + Gallery 3
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is underway. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Final judging will take place throughout the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in July 2024.
Here is Gallery 1 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other two galleries, follow the links: Gallery 2 + Gallery 3
GKEPF vet, Günter Nowak, carefully guides a sedated rhino to a translocation crate
120 southern white rhinos have been successfully translocated to reserves represented by the Greater Kruger Environmental Protection Foundation (GKEPF) in Mpumalanga and Limpopo, South Africa. This translocation is the second move under Rhino Rewild, an African Parks initiative to rewild 2,000 southern white rhinos into secure, protected African areas.
Editorial note about rhino poaching: Information about the presence of rhinos in protected areas comes from within – staff, third-party contractors, pseudo-tourists, relevant government departments, etc. There is no way to prevent poaching syndicates from accessing this information. Successful poaching syndicates find out exactly where in the reserve the target rhino is at any specific time – so that they can get in and out quickly. None of the information in this article is news to the syndicates, and it is also not specific enough for their purposes.
One hundred and twenty southern white rhinos have just been translocated to member reserves of the Greater Kruger Environmental Protection Foundation (GKEPF) in Mpumalanga and Limpopo provinces, South Africa. This boost to the southern white rhino population in the Greater Kruger area is part of African Parks’ Rhino Rewild initiative, an ambitious plan to rewild 2,000 southern white rhinos into secure, protected areas in Africa over the next ten years. This follows the translocation of 40 southern white rhino to Munywana Conservancy in South Africa in May.
GKEPF, established in 2016, is an alliance of nine private reserves, one provincial park, and one national park to service the protection needs of the western and eastern buffers of the Kruger National Park (KNP) and the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier National Park. This translocation comes when poaching rates within GKEPF reserves have significantly declined, indicating the effectiveness of security and anti-poaching measures.
In September 2023, African Parks purchased the world’s largest captive rhino breeding operation from John Hume in a bid to rescue 2,000 southern white rhinos following a failed auction, with one primary objective: to rewild them all to well-managed and secure protected areas, to establish or supplement strategic populations, ultimately helping to de-risk the future of the species.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
Through Rhino Rewild, African Parks is dedicated to bolstering healthy southern white rhino populations in South Africa – and recognises the country’s efforts in rhino conservation for the benefit of the African continent.
Rhinos are darted with tranquilliser from a helicopter
“Moving 120 rhinos under the Rhino Rewild initiative to GKEPF will augment the existing rhino population in the Greater Kruger and ensure that these rhino are fulfilling their role in their natural environment, which has been our vision from the start,” says Peter Fearnhead, CEO of African Parks. “Despite significant pressures, GKEPF members have played a critical role in the conservation of the Greater Kruger landscape, providing an important buffer to the Kruger, and we support their commendable progress in protecting rhino populations in their native range.”
Sharon Haussmann, CEO of GKEPF, says, “The rewilding itself bears testament to the cumulative knowledge, partnerships, and insights of a protracted period of anti-poaching efforts in the Greater Kruger landscape. That the benefits so clearly outweigh the risks presents a significant opportunity for rewarding the efforts of everyone who has remained committed to safeguarding rhino populations amid extremely challenging circumstances over the past 10 to 15 years.”
Collaboration is at the heart of GKEPF’s mandate. While rhinos will not be released into the KNP itself but into private game reserves along its western boundary, the project received consensus, collaboration, and expert inputs from KNP and South African National Parks (SANParks). This strategic placement to private reserves sharing an unfenced border with the KNP strengthens the rhino metapopulation and lays the groundwork for potential future collaboration as the Kruger continues its fight against poaching.
This region of South Africa is an ideal habitat for southern white rhinos. The fertile and water-rich grasslands of the selected release areas are suitable for ensuring optimal rhino health and population growth. Through a decade-long collaborative effort to combat rhino poaching, reserves and stakeholders have developed and shared a wealth of expertise. This has significantly bolstered their ability to proactively and effectively address poaching threats and safeguard the species.
The safety of these translocated rhinos is at the forefront for everyone involved. “The rhino will come in dehorned, which is a very effective way to decrease the poaching risk in this landscape. We’re at a point where this risk is well calculated,” says Markus Hofmeyr, a wildlife vet and Director of the Rhino Recovery Fund. “This will be the first reintroduction of rhinos into this landscape in about 50 years,” he adds.
A rhino is led towards transportation crates
Moving 120 rhinos is an enormous undertaking in every way, and it has taken, as Haussmann explains, “many, many sleepless nights” and extensive funding. African Parks is donating the animals to the reserve, with GKEPF donors contributing to the translocation costs and the subsequent ongoing monitoring of the rhino, a critical element for the project’s long-term success.
A word of thanks from African Parks: The Rob Walton Foundation and the Pershing Square Foundation are the initial funders of Rhino Rewild. Thanks to the OAK Foundation, Rhino Recovery Fund, Hancock Family, Max Planck Institute & Contemplate Wild, and Land Rover Sandton/SMH Group for their support of this translocation to GKEPF.
Günter Nowak and GKEPF CEO Sharon Haussmann inspect the ear of a tranquillised rhino prior to attaching a tracking deviceA rewilded rhino takes it first steps into Greater Kruger from a transport crateA rewilded rhino approaches the water hole inside the boma in Greater Kruger
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Africa’s parrots + epic pics + classic East African safaris
If you live in South Africa or are familiar with South African current affairs, you’ll know of the dire situation concerning the country’s power grid, which is unable to meet the nation’s demand for electricity. This results in scheduled rolling blackouts across the country, known as “load-shedding”. While load-shedding is detrimental to the country’s economy, scientists from the Fitzpatrick Institute have identified its upside: these blackouts allow the unique opportunity to study the impact of artificial light on wildlife across a wide range of habitats and species.
As home ranges of most species can be studied in total darkness during the hours of load-shedding on one evening and bathed in light during the same time the next, there are ample prospects to study the impacts of artificial light on wildlife – from feeding behaviours to species interactions and more. The researchers have challenged the global research community to exploit this opportunity to shed light on how artificial light affects the behaviours of free-ranging animals. Every cloud has a light-diffracted silver lining…
This week, we take a look at the wonders of Africa’s diverse parrot species – see our story below. And don’t miss the drama, colour, splendour and gore of our Photographer of the Year entries for week 12. Brace yourself!
Taryn van Jaarsveld – Editor
Story 1 https://africageographic.com/stories/africas-parrots/
AFRICA’S PARROTS
Africa’s parrots are colourful characters that live in complex social groups. But they are among the most threatened of all bird families. Learn more about these fascinating birds
Looking for an opulent African safari? Look no further! Our safari experts have designed two irresistible adventures that bring you the best East Africa offers. Let’s start planning your luxury African safari today
This eight-day luxury African safari offers an unforgettable introduction to the stunning beauty of Kenya’s diverse landscapes and endangered species. Encounter rare Rothschild’s giraffes up close, find the Big Five, and unwind in luxurious accommodation amidst breathtaking landscapes.
Discover Tanzania’s popular northern safari circuit, including Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti NP, and the idyllic serene beaches of Zanzibar. This safari offers a seamless introduction to the wonders of a Tanzanian bush & beach retreat. Immerse yourself in these iconic locations whilst exploring diverse landscapes and rich Tanzanian culture.
Do you have a friend who wants to go on an African safari? Refer them to Africa Geographic, and you’ll help protect African lion populations.
Here’s how:
If a person you refer to AG books a safari with us, both of you will be added to an AG lion COALITION, and AG will donate $250 towards the satellite collaring of a lion.
Each satellite collar costs $2,500. this means that once the COALITION reaches ten referrals – raising enough to purchase a collar – we finalise that COALITION and start building the next one.
Once that COALITION’s lion has been identified and collared, each COALITION member (including you) receives general updates from the research team about the lion – secure in the knowledge that they have made a decisive contribution to the ongoing survival of Africa’s free-roaming wild lions.
WATCH: A little elephant calf – only a few days old – has had enough. Tired and hungry, the pink-eared calf throws a bushveld tantrum. Take a moment to enjoy a glimpse into a precious moment in the wilderness. (02:11) Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is underway. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Judging will take place throughout the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is underway. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Judging will take place throughout the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
Throughout his life, Alex was said to be able to identify 50 different objects, count up to six, and distinguish between seven colours and five shapes. He had a vocabulary of over a hundred words and reacted with indignation when deceived. Reports suggest that he may have understood apologies, the application of pronouns and the concept of “zero”. All of these accomplishments are made more impressive because Alex was a parrot – an African grey parrot, to be precise. Alex and his ilk belong to the order Psittaciformes – one of the world’s most fascinating, intelligent, and threatened bird groupings. The Psittaciformes order encompasses over 400 species belonging to at least 101 genera, including parakeets, macaws, cockatoos, lovebirds, lorikeets and “true parrots”. While South America, Central America and Australasia play host to the greatest diversity, five genera of parrots are found throughout sub-Saharan Africa and on the surrounding islands.
In the wild where they belong, these colourful characters fill forests and savannahs with cheerful voices, constantly communicating with the other members of their complex and sophisticated social groups. So, without further ado, meet the kaleidoscope of African parrots, decorated to the nines in glamorous hues and filled to the brim with personality:
Grey matters: the Psittacus genus
Grey parrots are unequivocally the most famous of Africa’s parrot species, though sadly, their notoriety is based more on their desirability as pets than anything else. However, in the wild, they are found predominantly in the primary and secondary forests of West and Central Africa. Here, they gather in noisy flocks to forage and chatter in the canopies or descend to the clearings for a drink and a quick bite of mineral-rich clay.
A flock of 300 African grey parrots feed on the aquatic plants in a large Baï in Odzala-Kokoua National Park, Congo-Brazzaville
There are two species: the African grey parrot (Psittacus erithacus – also known simply as the grey or Congo grey parrot) and the recently recognised Timneh parrot (Psittacus timneh), which was formerly considered a subspecies. As the name suggests, both species are predominantly charcoal in colour, but the Timneh parrot is darker in colour and sports a maroon tail in contrast to the scarlet feathers of the African grey.
Timneh parrot
Due to the number of grey parrots in captivity, we know that these birds are highly intelligent, not only in speech and cognition but also in demonstrating emotion-based behaviours such as altruism. Less is known about their wild interactions, but there is no question that this intelligence translates to intricate social complexities and intimate bonds between individuals. Their repertoire reportedly includes over 200 different sounds, and they communicate almost constantly with each other while foraging.
Sadly, the wild grey parrot populations have plummeted over the past few decades to just a shadow of their former numbers (see more below). However, there are still places where one can see them in the wild, especially on the West African island of Príncipe (where they are still found in large numbers) and around the baïs of Odzala-Kokoua National Park.
Like their close relatives, the grey parrots, the wild parrots of the Poicephalus genus are endemic to Africa. There are at least eleven species, but avian taxonomy remains a somewhat murky and confused world, so that number is likely to change as future research distinguishes separate species. At present, the Poicephalus group includes:
Cape parrot (P. robustus)
Meyer’s parrot (P. meyeri)
Senegal parrot (P. senegalus)
African orange-bellied parrot (P. rufiventris)
Brown-headed parrot (P. cryptoxanthus)
Red-fronted parrot (P. gulielmi)
Brown-necked parrot (P. fuscicollisfuscicollis)
Grey-headed parrot (P. fuscicollissuahelicus)
Rüppell’s parrot (P. rueppellii)
Yellow-fronted parrot (P. flavifrons)
Niam-Niam parrot (P. crassus)
The complicated knot of parrot taxonomy is perhaps best explained by the case of the Cape parrot – South Africa’s only endemic parrot species. Until 2017, the Cape parrot, the brown-necked parrot and the grey-headed parrot were all considered subspecies of the same species, P. robustus. Research into the differences, including genetic, physical and behavioural, proved the distinction. Consequently, the Cape parrot was included on the Red List with a more conservative conservation status of ‘Vulnerable’.
Those wishing to find the Poicephalus species in the wild will find it a relatively easy task on almost any conventional safari. However, rarer species such as the Cape, Niam-Niam or Senegal parrots will likely require a specialised birding trip in the company of expert guides.
The Cape parrot is South Africa’s only endemic parrot speciesBrown-headed parrot in Kruger National Park, South AfricaMeyer’s parrot at the waterhole in Mashatu Game Reserve, BotswanaAfrican orange-bellied parrot having a drink in Tsavo National Park in KenyaGrey-headed parrot in Kruger National Park, South Africa
A loving cupful of parrots: the Agapornis genus
All nine species of lovebirds are native to Africa. However, their popularity as pets and for aviaries has seen the establishment of feral colonies and hybrid species that exist far outside their natural ranges, including in many parts of the United States.
Members of the Agapornis genus include:
Rosy-faced lovebird (A. roseicollis)
Yellow-collared lovebird (A. personatus)
Fischer’s lovebird (A.fischeri)
Lilian’s lovebird (A.lilianae)
Black-cheeked lovebird (A.nigrigenis)
Black-winged lovebird (A. taranta)
Red-headed lovebird (A. pullarius)
Grey-headed lovebird (A.canus)
Black-collared lovebird (A. swindernianus)
In the wild, most species are geographically separated, so avid birders looking to spot them all will have to travel the length and breadth of the continent. A special trip to the island of Madagascar will also be necessary to find the unique and endemic grey-headed lovebird.
Rosy-faced lovebird in flight in Spitzkoppe, NamibiaYellow-collared lovebirds in Tarangire National Park, TanzaniaLilian’s lovebirds in South Luangwa National Park, ZambiaFischer’s lovebirds in Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
The loneliest parrot: the Psittacula genus
There is only one extant representative of the parakeet genus on mainland Africa: the African rose-ringed parakeet (Psittacula krameri krameri). Its natural range extends from Guinea in West Africa to Uganda and northwards to the Nile Valley.
There is one other naturally-occurring parakeet in the vicinity – the echo parakeet of Mauritius. Sadly, this is the last living parakeet species of the Mascarene Islands. The Réunion parrot, Newton’s parakeet, Mascarene grey parakeet and Seychelles parakeet all became extinct during the 18th century due to human activity.
Rose-ringed parakeet
Islands in the sun: the Coracopsis genus
The fifth and final genus of African parrots: the largely unknown group of vasa parrots of Coracopsis. Though some disparity exists as to exact divisions, there are four confirmed species: the greater vasa parrot (C. vasa) and the lesser vasa parrot (C. nigra), both found in Madagascar, along with the Comoros black parrot (C. sibilans) and the Seychelles black parrot (C. barklyi) of their respective eponymous islands.
The members of the Coracopsis genus have several morphological features that set them apart from other parrot species. Their bodies are truncated, their necks long, their plumage without any bright colouration and the genitalia of the males are entirely unique.
A greater vasa parrot in Tsimanampetsotsa Nature Reserve, Madagascar (left), and a lesser vasa parrot in Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park, Madagascar
A word on the conservation of parrots
Globally, parrots are among the most threatened of all bird families, and while a full treaty on their conservation status is beyond the scope of this article, omitting the reality would be remiss. Their attractive looks, intelligence and propensity for mimicry have made them highly desirable as pets. Even with restrictions, the pet trade remains one of the most significant threats to their future. This is especially true for grey parrots, which have been trapped in their millions, but also for several members of the Poicephalus genus, including the Senegal parrot, one of the most frequently caught species in the wild. Their wild populations are also highly susceptible to habitat loss (primarily due to logging) and traditional medicine trade.
Resources on parrots
Visit the World Parrot Trust to learn more about the dangers facing African parrots and how to help.
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Akagera abundance + striking pics + photo safari
I had an awe-inspiring encounter with a giant elephant bull named Slot in the iconic Mana Pools many years ago.
I was chilling on the open roof rack of my Landy. It was a mild winter afternoon, the mattress was soft, and the plaintive hoots of wood doves had lulled me into a peaceful slumber. I woke when the Landy seemed to sink a few inches. Opening my eyes, I saw a massive tusk above my body and a large eye staring curiously at me. Slot (he had a large ‘key slot’ hole in his right ear) was resting his tusks on the roof rack – hence the sinking feeling. I would love to say that I nonchalantly greeted him and enjoyed this special moment. But in fact, I got the fright of my life and sat bolt upright, almost head-butting Slot. He jerked his head back and shuffled backwards at a rapid rate, stopping about 10 metres away and glared at me in indignation before clapping his ears and ambling off. I enjoyed several close encounters with this gentle giant over the years and was sad to hear of his death in 2012 due to natural causes.
Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools is one of those safari havens that should be on every bucket list – especially if you enjoy close, safe encounters on foot. Well, we have one spot left on an epic safari in late September – prime time for excellent sightings. See below for details. You will be guided by two of Africa’s best – an experienced walking guide and one of the best photographic guides. Safari njema!
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Did you know that giant ground pangolins have been rediscovered in Senegal – where they have not been seen in 24 years? A giant pangolin was recently photographed in Niokolo-Koba National Park by a camera trap, one of 217 set up to survey West African lions. The giant pangolin is the rarest of Africa’s pangolins – those fascinating prehistoric creatures that have been around for 80 million years, that are today the most trafficked animal in the world. Endangered giant pangolins are declining in their limited range in Central and West Africa, due to poaching and habitat loss. With many local extinctions of giant ground pangolins reported in recent years, this sighting is a small glimmer of hope.
For another story of hope, read about Kingsley Holgate’s Afrika Odyssey expedition journey to Akagera NP, Rwanda below. And don’t miss the striking pics in our Photographer of the Year gallery – the competition has now reached fever pitch!
These thrilling Zimbabwe safaris will show you two very different sides of a fascinating and wildlife-rich country. Opt for a photographer-guided safari to Mana Pools, or a bucket-list adventure to Vic Falls – or why not combine the two?
Mana Pools photographic safari – 9 days – From US$10,795
There is only ONE spot left on this safari, where you’ll experience (and photograph) the best Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe, has to offer. You’ll begin your safari in a private concession known for its thrilling wild-dog action, and then spend four days exploring the floodplains on the edge of the mighty Zambezi River. You’ll be personally guided by photographer Villiers Steyn and pro walking guide Carl Nicholson, who will lead you to some epic sightings and photo opportunities. 20–28 September 2024. Contact us to book, and enquire for SADC rates.
This safari offers a jam-packed three days of nonstop action in Africa’s adventure capital – ideal for a short break or as an add-on to another safari. Victoria Falls, one of the world’s Seven Wonders, is a destination well worth ticking off your bucket list. Experience the magic of “the smoke that thunders” in Zimbabwe – whether getting drenched while admiring the view or participating in the many activities on offer here, from white-water rafting, to gorge swinging, helicopter flights, boat cruises, game drives, canoeing and more.
Between 1,000 and 2,000 pangolins are electrocuted in South Africa each year. Pangolins often get caught on the trip-wire fences surrounding protected areas. These electrocutions can cause severe, if not fatal, injuries such as extreme facial swelling and bleeding from the nose and eyes. Thankfully, Provet Animal Hospital is helping to treat those pangolins that fall victim to fences.
These injured pangolins require immediate and aggressive treatment, including fluid therapy, and anti-inflammatory, pain-killer and antibiotic treatment.
If treatment and recovery are successful, rehabilitated pangolins can be released back into the wild. These pangolins are fitted with satellite and radio tags to help monitor and track their progress after release.
Your donation, big or small, will support the team at Provet Animal Hospital with the funds to deal with the seasonal influx of these precious creatures.
Note that all pangolins are housed at offsite locations for security purposes.
WATCH: Longing to explore marvellous Majete Wildlife Reserve, Malawi? Majete is one of Africa’s greatest conservation success stories and a premier Big-5 safari destination. Majete’s Thawale Lodge is a fully-catered lodge with all you’ll need for a comfortable stay. Exploring Majete by vehicle or boat is best – both activities are offered to Thawale guests. Learn more here. (09:56) Click here to watch
It’s been 165 days since we started this conservation, community, and culture-themed journey, and the Afrika Odyssey Expedition has reached its halfway point: park number 11 – Akagera National Park on Rwanda’s eastern border with Tanzania. As a first-night treat, Rwandan-born park manager Ladislas Ndahiriwe organises accommodation for us at the Ruzizi Tented Lodge – a welcome change after many days of hard travel, campfire nosh, and bucket baths.
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
We’re stunned by the beauty of Akagera. At the same time, the rolling green hills and densely wooded valleys remind us of Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park back home in Zululand; it’s the wetlands, numerous lakes, and vast papyrus swamps bordered by the meandering Akagera River that make Akagera one of the most picturesque parks in Africa, rivaling even famous reserves like Sabi Sand. We explore all the way north to the wildlife-rich Kilala Plains. On a narrow road, a big bull elephant refuses to give way and comes thundering towards us, forcing a fast reverse and quick turn of the Defenders onto a sidetrack – straight into a crash of southern white rhino. They’re part of a group of 30 translocated from South Africa in 2021, and several new calves have already been born.
The Afrika Odyssey team spent their first night in Akagera’s luxury safari lodge, Ruzizi Tented Lodge
It’s precisely what we’d hoped to see. At least they will be safe; not a single elephant or rhino has been lost to poachers in Akagera in the past 13 years. Lions and black rhinos have also been reintroduced and are flourishing, and leopards are regularly seen.
That evening, whilst setting up camp on the shores of Lake Shakani, a howling wind blows in, and ice-cold rain hits us sideways – everything’s instantly soaked, even the bedrolls. Somehow, we get the tents up and survive the night, only to be drenched again at sunrise by another sudden storm, sticky red mud coating everything. As our wet kit dries out, a fish eagle gracefully swoops over the lake and catches a monstrous catfish; it’s so big the bird can’t get airborne and flaps and flops around on the surface like a one-winged duck. That sets off a cacophony of mocking calls from other fish eagles perched in trees ringing the water’s edge – we swear we’ve never seen or heard so many of these lovely birds in one place in all our African travels. But to fully understand the extraordinary story of the survival and success of this magnificently beautiful landscape, we need to go back in time.
Drenched while camping on the shores of Lake Shakani
“Thank you – you’ve brought the rains!” laughs Ladislas as he introduces us to his energetic, youthful team and Jes Gruner, African Parks’ regional operations manager. In a meeting room dominated by a massive map of the continent depicting African Parks’ visionary ‘161 strategy’ (of which part of the goal is to directly manage 30 protected areas by 2030, covering over 30 million hectares), Akagera’s story unfolds.
“It hasn’t always been like this,” Ladislas begins. “The aftermath of the 1994 genocide against the Tutsis had a devastating impact, and Akagera was all but abandoned. When the genocide ended, returning refugees sought land for themselves, and the park was overrun with people and some 40,000 head of cattle. So, in 1997, the park was downsized by two-thirds – a pragmatic approach by the Rwandan government, allowing a traumatised population to rebuild their lives while still retaining a huge wildlife area. Even though horrific levels of poaching continued for another decade – the last black rhino was killed in 2007 – there were still viable populations of wildlife. The Rwanda Development Board realised the value of reviving Akagera, but they needed conservation expertise. They’d seen the transformation of Majete Wildlife Reserve in Malawi, so in 2010, they signed a 20-year agreement with African Parks to form the Akagera Management Company.”
Jes takes up the story. “When I arrived here as the first park manager, things were morbid. Everything was broken; the vehicles had no tyres, and the rangers had no structure or support. The park’s 300 lions had all been killed, crop-raiding elephants were causing huge problems, there were snares-snares-snares everywhere, hippo and buffalo poaching were out of control, the lakes were being overfished, and the park had become a smuggling route.”
Poaching and snaring have been almost completely eliminated in the park, thanks to Akagera’s team of rangers
Thirteen years later, Akagera has been completely transformed and is now home to thriving wildlife populations, having grown from fewer than 5,000 animals to 12,000. A well-patrolled 120km fence runs along the western boundary, protecting communities from human-wildlife conflict. Poaching and snaring have almost been eliminated by the 100-strong ranger team, which includes dedicated rhino trackers, marine rangers, and a K9 unit. Two thousand schoolchildren and over 300 local leaders visit Akagera each year as part of the environmental education programme. Tourism has increased 12-fold, and Akagera is rapidly approaching the goal of becoming 100% self-financed.
Akagera’s K9 unit is a force to be reckoned with
“A main reason why Akagera is so successful is the strong support from the Rwandan Development Board,” Jean-Paul Karinganire, the assistant tourism and marketing manager, tells us. “Not just for conservation, but also for marketing Rwanda worldwide as an exciting tourism destination. Responsible government is bringing back the glories of our national parks. With the Big Five success of Akagera’s savannah and wetland environment, the gorillas of Volcanoes National Park and the chimps in the forests of Nyungwe National Park (another African Parks-managed reserve), Rwanda is fast becoming known as a stand-alone ‘Big 7’ destination with great community and cultural activities in a safe and secure country. In addition, tourism creates employment and business opportunities for the locals – visitors need accommodation, transport, food, drink and guides. That all contributes to the upliftment of our community neighbours and helps young people to find work and improve their lives.”
Assistant park manager Jean-Paul Karinganire signs the expedition scrollThe dedicated Akagera team
A hallmark of every African Parks-run protected area we’ve visited is their out-of-the-box thinking regarding community engagement, and Akagera takes this to the next level. “It’s integral to our success; local people must be able to see tangible benefits,” Fiston Ishimwe, the park’s community liaison manager, tells us. “It’s not just about employment; although we now employ 320 permanent staff – 70% of them from adjacent communities. We’ve also embraced the Rwandan concept of working through cooperatives and helped set up several, which generate income for hundreds of people. We also use Rwanda’s monthly Umuganda clean-up days to build goodwill between the park and the people and have a vibrant education and engagement approach. We use radio and TV to reach stakeholders and local sporting events to send a strong conservation and ‘no poaching’ message.”
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? You can plan and book your African Parks safari to Akagera National Park and other parks by clicking here.
At the Gishani Fish Farm, there’s lots of humour as Eline Nyirandagijimana and Mathilde Murebwayire, the delightful aquaculturists who manage this state-of-art facility, try and squeeze broad-shouldered Ross into a too-tight regulation white coat and hunt for a giant pair of sanitised white crocs to fit Kingsley’s size 14 feet. “This project was started because poaching in Akagera’s lakes was decimating the fish species, and malnutrition was a real problem in the communities surrounding the park, so we had to find a solution,” they tell us. “Although the project has only been going for two years, we now produce 1.5 million fingerlings for sale to other fish farmers, have restocked ponds and lakes, and we’re close to reaching our target of producing 60,000 fully grown fish each year that we sell at half the price of beef to local people to improve their diet. Traders are now coming from as far as the DRC to buy our tilapia, and the fish poo is given to women in need as fertiliser for organic vegetable gardens. The demand is so high we have to expand, and best of all, we’ve saved the fish stocks at Akagera National Park!”
Lions and black rhinos are thriving after being reintroduced to Akagera
Fiston tells us that the fish farm has ignited the local economy, and the value of peoples’ land has risen, which means they can apply for larger housing loans. The second project – a cooperative that’s been given sole access to fish Lake Ihema (Akagera’s largest) under strictly controlled conditions – also provides protein free of charge to impoverished families each day, and a regular income for the co-op’s members. “The lake is now oozing fish, and a recent survey showed that over 95% of community members support the park as they see the benefits,” he says happily.
More busy days follow. Hundreds of children at the GS Ndego School create wildlife art to learn about the park, we participate in malaria prevention and Rite to Sight campaigns at the Cyarubare Health Centre and spend a fun afternoon with the Akagera K9 unit. Kenyan-born Boaz Wahika, the cheerful manager, is immensely pleased with their initial success in crossing the pure-breed K9 dogs with local hounds to reduce sleeping sickness caused by the bites of the tsetse fly. “It hasn’t been proven scientifically, but it’s working for us as cases of ‘tryps’ [canine trypanosamiasis/sleeping sickness] and dogs dying have dropped significantly. The less I have to poke an injection into one of my dogs, the happier I am,” Boaz tells us with a broad grin.
Afrika Odyssey’s Anna Holgate hands out malaria-prevention nets to moms at the Cyarubare Health CentreAfrika Odyssey’s Ross Holgate helps with the Rite to Sight campaignSchool children participate in the wildlife art competition
Sitting around the fire at the hilltop Muyumbu campsite a few nights later, the moon and stars above reflect in the eyes of a big herd of passing buffalo as Anna dreams up another of her expeditionary gastronomic delights and Sheelagh tries to decipher pages of notes by the light of a torch. The sounds of the wild surround us: lions roar in the distance, a leopard coughs nearby, the squeal of an elephant on the lakeshore below and frogs croak after the rain. In the distance, the twinkling lights of the surrounding towns and villages remind us that communities and conservation can work together in meaningful ways so that, into the future, they remain the custodians of Akagera.
Akagera has become a haven for elephantsCamping at Muyumbu campsite
Ladislas and Jes laugh and joke as they wade into Lake Shakani to add symbolic Akagera water to the expedition calabash. They take us to collect pebbles from the Krisztian Gyonygi memorial viewpoint for further symbolism. The pebbles clunk into a bag to join others collected from the ten parks already visited – pebbles that will be used to build a ceremonial isivivane (pile of stones) at the end of this Afrika Odyssey in a few months. But there are still 11 destinations before we complete our mission of connecting all 22 African Parks-managed protected areas across this magnificent continent.
Our second-to-last night in Akagera is spent at Karenge Bush Camp, which has endless views over the Kilala Plains, and the hills beyond that mark the border with Tanzania. The following day, we take a narrow 4×4 track to the high Kajumbura viewpoint. An eland is silhouetted on the crest of a hill, and a gentle oribi lies motionless in the alpine-like grasses. Surrounded by wildflowers, we stop for a tailgate lunch of boiled eggs and cold chicken. In the distance is the amoeba-shaped shimmering Lake Rwanyakizinga, and we can see the Akagera River meandering in and out of Lake Mihindi. To the west are the Matumbi Hills, looking like the folds of a great, green blanket, and to the south stretch vast papyrus swamps interspersed with more lakes with names like Gishanju and Kivumba. Towering cumulonimbus thunderheads march like galleons across the landscape – several storms are happening around us, dumping great rain curtains on the valleys below.
The team spent a night at Karenge Bush Camp, one of Akagera’s luxury safari camps
Nosing the Defenders along a thin, winding, muddy track, we’re surrounded by curious Maasai giraffes and at last light, we stop on the shores of Lake Hago. A massive croc lies on the bank, fish eagles call, and pods of hippos grunt and move lazily between the papyrus reeds; scenes so timeless that they seem to wash away the years of hardship that this wild landscape has known and the horrors and suffering of the genocide, to be replaced by a future full of hope for both people and wildlife in this small, densely populated country.
Maasai giraffe greet the expedition team
With its growing tourism numbers, Akagera has become the best-performing park in the African Parks network. It is a success model for other national parks in Central and French-speaking African countries, whose teams come here to see how stability, responsible governance and conservation expertise can create a self-sustaining and profitable wildlife haven.
We leave as a blanket of early morning mist hangs low in the valleys of Akagera. It’s hushed, but there’s a sense of peace, permanence, stability and confidence that the years ahead will only improve.
Then it’s through the ordered chaos of Kigali’s traffic, dodging thousands of bicycles and motorbike taxis and keeping a sharp eye out for Rwanda’s numerous ‘sleeping policemen’ – speed cameras in sneakily camouflaged brown-and-grey towers that sting you $25 a shot – and into the high, forested mountains of the west. The next destination is Nyungwe National Park, near the Burundi and DRC borders.
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
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Giraffes to Iona + penultimate pics + best of Southern Africa
By now you will know that African Parks has started releasing the rhinos purchased from farmer John Hume into the wild. The plan is to release their 2,000 rhinos over 10 years.
Since Hume first started lobbying for international trade in rhino horn, the conservation world has been divided about the likely impact of such a decision on WILD rhino populations. But that is not the focus of my observations today.
This brave and visionary move by African Parks is typical of their way. No fuss, no bragging or drama – get on with the job. Their conservation model is one of boots on the ground and local community benefaction and their success throughout Africa speaks for itself.
And while some human rights extremists continue to hammer what they term ‘fortress conservation’ because it apparently removes some inalienable human right to destroy nature for short-term gain, the African Parks team maintains a laser focus on doing good for Africa’s ecosystems, biodiversity and people. In a world where so much is going horribly wrong, let’s celebrate the successes. A luta continua!
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
This week’s Photographer of the Year galleries (check them out below) include an image of a fascinating and rather bewildered-looking creature: a Zanzibar red colobus monkey. This colobus, found only in Zanzibar, is one of the rarest primates on the planet. But did you know they share a unique characteristic with cows? Both cows and colobus monkeys have stomachs with four chambers for digesting greens. But the monkeys are not able to digest the non-native trees and farming crops they are inevitably attracted to, which has sparked a habit: they eat charcoal (mostly stolen from humans) to settle their indigestion.
The Zanzibar red colobus came close to extinction a few years ago when their population dropped below 2,000. But conservation efforts, including the establishment of Jozani Chwaka Bay National Park, instating communities as shareholders in the park and building speed bumps to prevent cars from colliding with monkeys, helped bolster numbers. Latest estimates put the population at 6,000 (still low). But the monkeys attract 60,000 tourists a year, and Jozani Forest is better protected than ever before as a result. An outstanding example of how conservation of species can have far-reaching benefits to economy, communities and planet.
This week we celebrate another win for Iona National Park in Angola, with more giraffes returning to the park in efforts to restore biodiversity. See more below.
Don’t miss out on our two exclusive safaris – thrilling introductions to Southern Africa’s most coveted destinations. Explore our options below, or better yet, combine the two for a truly unique and unforgettable journey. Click here for free safari planning
Be swept off your feet with wall-to-wall wildlife action on this iconic Southern African safari. You’ll visit Greater Kruger, Cape Town and the Winelands in South Africa; Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park in Botswana; and Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe – for a once-in-a-lifetime adventure.
Immerse yourself in the watery paradise of the Okavango Delta. This lush wilderness, with its grassy floodplains, islands, and water channels, is a masterpiece engineered and maintained by elephants, hippos and termites. Here’s your chance to witness one of the most captivating ecosystems on the planet.
Have you submitted your entries for Photographer of the Year 2024? There is just ONE WEEK LEFT to enter. Visit our website for all you need to know, from how and where to enter, to our competition rules and the epic prizes on offer – including a conservation safari and a lion research collar sponsored in your name. Don’t miss your chance to become the next Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year!
WATCH: Last chance to enter Photographer of the Year 2024! We’re looking for your photos that celebrate Africa and capture the continent’s splendour, from wildlife action and landscapes to African culture and safari experiences. There are some epic prizes up for grabs for our three winners. See more here. (01:29) Click here to watch
A second group of Angolan giraffes, numbering 13, has been successfully relocated to Iona National Park, Angola, as part of an ongoing conservation initiative to restore and enrich the park’s biodiversity. Last year, Angolan giraffes were returned to their historical home after an absence of more than a century, and this second translocation continues this conservation success story.
Seeing these majestic animals making their first steps in their new home was a sight no one will ever forget – a small step for the giraffe but a big step for wildlife conservation in Angola.
When Angolan giraffe returned to Iona National Park in Angola last year, this was only the start of a long-standing commitment to species conservation by the Giraffe Conservation Foundation, African Parks, and the Government of Angola, who had teamed up to bring back Angolan giraffes after a long absence. This week, an additional 13 giraffes made the long journey from central Namibia to Iona National Park in Southwest Angola. The Giraffe Conservation Foundation and African Parks sponsored the epic move. The release of the 13 giraffes was witnessed by President João Lourenço of Angola and a high-level ministerial delegation comprising over 16 ministers, the governor of Angola’s Namibe Province, traditional authorities and other dignitaries.
The giraffes running free in Iona
“The safe arrival of these giraffe to their historic home range is another critical step in restoring Iona National Parks’ ecological equilibrium. Their successful release holds huge potential to positively influence the local tourism industry. This, in turn, could generate jobs in tourism-related services, increase income for local communities, and raise awareness about the importance of preserving biodiversity”, commented Augusto Archer de Sousa Mangueira, the governor of Namibe Province.
After their capture in Namibia, the giraffe travelled over 1,300km in a journey that lasted over 48 hours before their successful release in Iona National Park, Angola, on Saturday, 18 May 2024. Last year’s translocation was successful with the introduced giraffe adapting well to their new home. To bolster this small population and help with their long-term viability, it was decided to bring in additional giraffes to help further restore the region’s ecological processes. Giraffes are important landscape gardeners who shape vegetation through browsing and dispersal of seeds due to their selective feeding habits.
The giraffe capture boma
“Bringing Angolan giraffe back to Iona National Park in Angola last year was an amazing achievement and has the makings of a true conservation success story. By reintroducing giraffe to their historical range, we re-establish their range, ensure their long-term survival and contribute to restoring the ecological balance in the region. We are excited to continue our collaboration with African Parks and the Angolan government who are great partners in these conservation efforts. Together, we can make a real difference”, said Stephanie Fennessy, executive director and co-founder of the Giraffe Conservation Foundation.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
Giraffes head off into their new home
Pedro Monterroso, park manager at Iona National Park, said: “Last year’s reintroduction of giraffe to Iona National Park was a pivotal moment in the park’s history, signifying a major milestone in the ongoing commitment of African Parks and the Ministry of Environment to restore Iona National Park towards ecological, social and financial sustainability. Today, with the release of another 13 animals, I am thrilled to witness the ongoing restoration of the park’s biodiversity. Strong partnership is essential for successful conservation and we remain grateful to the Angolan Government and the Giraffe Conservation Foundation for their unwavering support and collaboration.”
Whilst giraffe populations in general have declined in the past 35 years due to habitat loss, poaching, and other human-induced factors, recent targeted giraffe conservation efforts have seen positive effects, and several populations have started to rebound. Conserving and protecting giraffes is crucial for their survival and maintaining the balance and functionality of Africa’s ecosystems. Translocations are essential and impactful tools for conservation, and in particular, this cross-border move is a testament to the commitment of conservation by many players in Africa who work tirelessly for the protection of Africa’s unique biodiversity.
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
During a recent stroll on a nearby wooded hillside I took a photo of my foot – to determine my GPS coordinates courtesy of the photo metadata stored by my iPhone. When I swiped up to view the location metadata I was prompted to research Jack Russel terriers. My split-second confusion was replaced by a chill that ran down my spine. One of our Jackies had walked by when I took the photo – as evidenced by a white blur in the bottom left corner of my photo. Just think about that.
Artificial Intelligence (AI) is creeping into our lives at a rapid rate – like it or not. Some you know about (using Chat GPT to write your speech, for example), and some is coded into stuff you use every day. Some of the coding is to improve your product experience, but most is to benefit the relevant product manufacturer.
AI has massive implications for wildlife conservation. It will improve our ability to gather and process relevant data, for example population numbers, habitat health, and surveillance networks, and so better focus our efforts. AI will also weaponise poaching syndicates to do their thing better. To further illustrate my point, consider drones – a fun flying camera for some and lethal killing machine for others.
Tiger by the tail …
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
We know that elephants are great communicators. They have specific names for one another and transmit rumbles that connect them over large distances. They bond by placing their trunks in each other’s mouths – to comfort and reassure. Plus, they have elaborate greeting rituals – but not much is known about what the various gestures in their greetings mean. But a recent study has revealed a new level of intent and consideration in their greetings.
The researchers found that elephants greet intentionally and adapt their greetings to what other elephants are doing. For example, if a companion were not paying attention, the elephant would capture their attention by using touch before greeting. Or, if attention were already held, they’d revert to visual greetings only. Not a species for airs and graces, elephants only greet the fellows they know and like (and ignore those they don’t). And the most common form of greeting? Waving. With ears, that is. The combination of ear flapping and rumbling was the most frequently used greeting recorded by researchers. We are still learning to unpack the complex social behaviours of elephants, and every study unveils something a little more fascinating about these sentient beings.
This week, African Parks shared the news that they have rewilded the first 40 rhinos acquired from their purchase of John Hume’s Platinum Rhino operation – see below. It’s been another bumper week of Photographer of the Year, with two galleries filled with action-packed photos. Plus, Kingsley Holgate and his Afrika Odyssey team have shared the ups and downs of their expedition from Malawi to Rwanda, where their journey takes them to this fascinating country’s protected areas managed by African Parks. More below.
Explore northern Botswana’s ecosystems – Moremi, Khwai, Savute and the Chobe River waterfront – on a fully catered mobile safari. Beginning in Maun and ending in Kasane, and led by experienced guides, you’ll track big cats and wild dogs, and meander along the Chobe River.
The backdrop of this safari is one of Africa’s most hauntingly beautiful landscapes. From the stark figures of ancient baobabs, to elephants, habituated meerkats and zebra migrations, this tour of the world-famous salt pans in Botswana – Makgadikgadi Pan and Nxai Pan – goes far beyond the average “Big 5” safari.
The Kruger National Park region has lost one of it’s emerging tuskers: Ntshembo.
With only a few big tuskers still present in Kruger, it is critical to conserve remaining bulls known to have these large-tusk genes. Ntshembo (translated to Believe) was recently spotted with an infected wound, and teams from Elephants Alive decided to assist this magnificent bull. Ntshembo was in his prime breeding years, and so the vet team, led by specialist vet Dr Cobus Raath, set out to do all they could to try to save him, and allow him the chance to pass his large-tusk genes on to future generations.
When the vet team assessed the severity of the injuries, they found that Ntshembo had suffered severe nerve damage. This damage prevented Ntshembo from eating. Ntshembo was also most likely deaf in his right ear and blind in his right eye, and had lost significant condition – all likely due to having suffered this injury months before being spotted. Based on decades of experience working with injured wildlife, the vet team took the difficult but informed decision to end this exceptional bull’s suffering.
Elephants Alive is still working to help elephants like Ntshembo, and has a Fast Action fund to help in instances like this. They need your support to give elephants the best chance of survival. Please consider donating here.
WATCH: Kafue National Park is one of Africa’s largest protected areas, and is situated in the world’s largest transfrontier conservation area, the Kavango Zambezi (KAZA TFCA). The park hosts a critical population of savannah wildlife. This beautiful short film was created to highlight the importance of Kafue as a wildlife destination, and its potential to deliver revenue and provide employment to local communities. (03:13) Click here to watch
African Parks has donated 40 southern white rhino to Munywana Conservancy in South Africa – the first step of a continent-wide initiative to rewild 2,000 rhinos, purchased from John Hume’s rhino breeding operation
Editorial note about rhino poaching: Information about the presence of rhinos in protected areas comes from within – staff, third-party contractors, pseudo-tourists, relevant government departments, etc. There is no way to prevent poaching syndicates from accessing this information. Successful poaching syndicates find out exactly where in the reserve the target rhino is at any specific time – so that they can get in and out quickly. None of the information in this article is news to the syndicates, and it is also not specific enough for their purposes.
African Parks has officially launched the rewilding phase of ‘Rhino Rewild’, an ambitious plan to rewild 2,000 southern white rhinos into secure protected areas in Africa over the next ten years. In the first move of this continent-wide effort, 40 southern white rhinos were donated to the Munywana Conservancy in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa, to support the conservancy’s successful conservation and community efforts.
The white rhinos will bolster Munywana Conservancy’s current rhino population. This marks the first translocation under ‘Rhino Rewild,’ an African Parks initiative to rewild 2,000 southern white rhinos, purchased from John Hume’s Platinum Rhino farm, into secure protected areas in Africa.
The Munywana Conservancy has a historical foundation: in 2007, 9,085 hectares of land were returned to its ancestral owners, the Makhasa and Mnqobokazi communities, as part of South Africa’s land restitution process. Both communities requested that the land continue to be kept under conservation. Through this legacy, the Munywana Conservancy, now a 29,866-hectare reserve, is upheld through a collaboration of community and private landowners that include the Makhasa Community Trust, the Mnqobokazi Community Trust, &Beyond Phinda and Zuka Private Game Reserves.
“We are extremely pleased to receive these 40 rhino from African Parks to supplement the current population of white rhinos at our community conservancy,” says Thokozani Mlambo, chairperson of the Makhasa Trust, one of the four primary shareholders of the Munywana Conservancy. “We see this as recognition of the important role that community-owned land plays in conservation, and we are proud to be collaborating in such a significant partnership to rewild rhinos across our continent.”
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
The Munywana Conservancy offers a secure environment to support the rewilding of southern white rhino. With this move, Munywana’s current rhino population will be bolstered, enhancing genetic diversity, aiding future rhino translocations to other locations, and supporting tourism – a key driver of the local economy.
In September 2023, African Parks purchased the world’s largest captive rhino breeding operation – John Hume’s Platinum Rhino farm – which was facing financial collapse. The initiative’s main objective is to rewild all the rhinos to well-managed and secure protected areas, thereby establishing or supplementing strategic populations and ultimately helping to de-risk the species’ future.
“I am especially pleased to see that the very first translocation of some of the 2,000 white rhinos are going to this important landscape within South Africa, which is a flagship partnership in which communities are making a significant contribution to the conservation of our natural heritage,” says Barbara Creecy, South Africa’s Minister of Forestry, Fisheries and Environment. “On behalf of the Government of South Africa, we were very supportive of African Parks’ plan to purchase and rewild these rhino and remain a key partner in providing technical and scientific advice, and the support needed to carry out this conservation solution in South Africa and on the African continent.”
A southern-white rhino calf, one of the rhinos bred on John Hume’s Platinum Rhino farm
To achieve a successful outcome of this translocation, the animals’ body condition and parasite adaptation will be closely monitored as they adjust to their new environment. In addition, the conservancy will implement its intensive security measures to ensure the safety of the 40 dehorned rhino.
The capture team gently leads an anesthetized rhino to the crate for transport
“We believe that both African Parks and the Munywana have the same ethos and guiding principles when it comes to conservation, and in that spirit the Munywana has gladly accepted this donation, enabling these rhino to commence the process of becoming fully wild and free roaming,” says Dale Wepener, Munywana warden and conservation manager.
This first translocation was carried out by African Parks, &Beyond Phinda, Conservation Solutions and WeWild Africa, and the financial support for the move was provided by the Aspinall Foundation and the Wildlife Emergency Fund. “We recognise the magnitude and logistical feat of moving 2,000 rhino. This is just the beginning of a long-term partnership with African Parks where we can play our part in making a tangible contribution to the future of the southern white rhino in Africa,” says Damian Aspinall, chairperson of WeWild Africa.
The southern white rhino is under extreme pressure due to poaching and habitat loss, hence the need for well-protected areas to allow them to thrive. While southern white rhinos reached an all-time low of 30 to 40 animals in the 1930s, effective conservation measures increased the population to approximately 20,000 individuals by 2012. However, the dramatic rise in poaching has decreased their numbers to approximately 16,000 today. White rhinos are mega-herbivores that are important in shaping savannahs, which store approximately 30% of the world’s terrestrial carbon. Where rhinos are present, there is an increase in both flora and fauna, and thriving wild rhino populations are indicators of ecosystem renewal.
Rhinos being released into bomas as part of the habituation process in Munywana Conservancy
“The crux of the solution, and the ultimate success for rewilding these 2,000 rhino, lies in the existence of safe, well-protected and effectively managed areas across Africa, of which the Munywana Conservancy is an excellent example,” says Peter Fearnhead, CEO of African Parks, an organisation that manages 22 protected areas in partnership with governments and communities in 12 countries. “Rhino Rewild is one of our most ambitious undertakings to date, where together with a multitude of governmental, conservation and community organisations, and key funders, we have the rare opportunity to help de-risk a species, and in the process to help secure some of the most critical conservation areas not just in Africa, but in the world.”
The Rob Walton Foundation, the Pershing Square Foundation, WeWild Africa, the Aspinall Foundation, and the Wildlife Emergency Fund are among Rhino Rewild’s initial funders.
The scratched, mud-splattered map printed on the bonnet of the big Defender 130 tells the story of our quest to link all 22 African Parks-managed areas and the communities they support in 12 countries across the continent. Starting at Iona National Park in Angola and with ten protected areas now completed, spirits are high for the start of chapter two of this legacy adventure. Our next and equally challenging goal is to reach five national parks in Rwanda, DRC and South Sudan.
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
This is our 41st expedition, and its name, Afrika Odyssey, is particularly significant. It’s a revival of the name given to the first geographic and humanitarian expedition the Holgate family undertook 30 years ago. In 1993-4, Kingsley, Ross and the team back then became the first South African adventurers in decades to travel the length of Africa from the Cape of Good Hope to Alexandria in Egypt along the continent’s rivers and lakes. The expedition’s logo is also a modern redraw of that original journey’s insignia, with twin elephants representing Kingsley’s favourite animal, and our partnership with African Parks and this journey’s mission to discover powerful, positive stories of hope for Africa’s wild spaces and neighbouring communities.
Heading north, the kilometres speed by as the Zen of Travel takes us along roads less travelled. The heavily loaded, long-wheel-base Defenders are made for this type of work as we zigzag along the western wall of Africa’s Great Rift Valley to overnight at one of our favourite spots in Tanzania. Lake Shore Lodge is owned by good friends Chris and Lou Horsefall, who some 20 years ago, built this remote home-from-home paradise with forever views over Lake Tanganyika, Africa’s longest and deepest freshwater lake. It’s a grand reunion and we’d love to stay longer but the race to Rwanda is on.
The shore villages of Lake Tanganyika
By now, we should know that ‘Mama Afrika owns the time’. Crossing Katavi National Park, with its estivating crocs, congested hippo pools and massive buffalo herds, we’re brought up short by a line of stationery vehicles. On a narrow, upward bend ahead, a 30-tonne container truck is bogged down in thick sand, and a rickety, overloaded lorry carrying timber has got stuck trying to negotiate its way around.
The road is properly blocked – no way through. Kingsley’s son Ross goes scouting for a solution. “Be careful of the lions!” Kingsley shouts after him as, flapping at tsetse flies, Ross disappears into the miombo woodlands. By this time, more trucks and cars had joined the jam on both sides, including a busload of cheerful nuns and quite a crowd gathering, chattering loudly in Swahili. A helpful driver produces a heavy chain and cable and suggests harnessing two strong lorries to pull the container truck backwards and out of the way. But the driver of the stricken truck is nowhere to be found – it seems he’s gone AWOL, along with the keys. We could be stuck here for hours if not days.
Sweating profusely, Ross reappears. “If we can winch the Defenders off the road and over this steep bank, we can gun it up the hill through the trees – there’s a path at the top that will take us around the stuck trucks and back onto the road north.” Wrapping a wide strap around a tree, he attaches the winch cable and with a bit of first-gear, low-ratio and Ross yelling instructions above the groan of the winch, ‘Moyo’ (means ‘heart’ in Swahili), the first Defender inches forward. But the near-vertical, soft bank crumbles, and she starts going over – two wheels off the ground. Shouts of alarm, we race to help – a couple of beefy truck drivers included – and jump onto the running boards to keep the Defender down. A bit more winching, a brief stop to bring in the cable…everyone breathes an audible sigh of relief as foot-flat and with stones and dust flying, Moyo powers up through gaps in the trees to reach the hill’s summit.
Taking a shortcut to get around a stranded truck blocking the road
The crowd is even more excited: will the second Defender make it? There’s much shouting and helpful advice as we take a different approach this time. Behind the wheel of ‘Isibindi’ (‘courage’ in Zulu), Kingsley follows Ross’ hand signals, unsure if they are instructions or Ross doing a tsetse fly-swat dance. Bonnet in the air – the angle is crazy – the tree the cable is attached to creaks ominously and starts to lean. In double-quick time, the Beard accelerates over the bank and reaches the top. The truck drivers and nuns clap and whistle to farewell shouts of ‘Safari njema!’ (Swahili for ‘Have a safe journey’), we bump along the rough hilltop path and back onto the dirt road.
Skirting Burundi on the eastern side of the Rift, we take a lonely track along the escarpment, winding through pristine natural forests with endless views. As night fell, we camped in a grassy clearing amongst the trees. It’s spectacularly serene: not another human being in sight, the sky filled with stars, a serenade of frogs and night jars and a pot of chicken stew bubbling on the coals. It’s these ‘freedom moments’ that we love and with enamel mugs in hand, we laugh about the escapades of the day, discuss the route ahead and get to talking about the value of wild camping to an expedition. You’d think they would’ve lost their novelty after literally thousands of nights over many years, but each is still special and a critical part of every journey. We love the simplicity of it all: no cellphone signal, a small circle of light from the campfire, our tents silhouetted by flickering flames, my treasured tin bucket from Macedonia heating ‘small bath’ water, the sounds of an African night permeating the still air, and the world and its problems light years away. Nobody knows where we are; it’s a liberating feeling.
During the night, we’re woken by the crashing thunder and lightning of a massive tropical storm – the first of the season. The rain buckets down in typical East African intensity. Still, by sunrise, the skies are clear, and we’re serenaded by the mournful whooping of ground hornbills in the dripping forest, their melodies echoing off granite-strewn ridges.
400km of muddy roads later, it’s near-dark by the time we set up camp on a windswept, thunderous and lightning-lit ridge overlooking the hills of Rwanda. Memory lane for us – we’d first tried to cross this border in 1994 whilst on the first Afrika Odyssey expedition 30 years ago but were turned back because of the Rwandan Genocide at that time, in which nearly one million ethnic Tutsi and moderate Hutu were killed as the international community and UN peacekeepers stood by. But that’s history now, and this time, Rwanda is a positive story about a beautiful, proud country that’s rebounded from its past and embraced conservation and wildlife as part of its incredible revival.
It’s not for naught that Rwanda is known as the ‘land of a thousand hills’
The rain lashes down again as we cross the swollen Akagera River to reach the Rusumo Border Post. Beneath a framed photograph of President Paul Kagame, our passports are entry-stamped with great enthusiasm. “Welcome to Rwanda – it’s your home!” says the smiling immigration official, who also reminds us to drive on the right. The sun comes out to welcome us as we zigzag along tarred roads with not a single pothole, through spotless towns and villages with pretty houses decorated in blue-and-white designs, dodging hundreds of ladened bicycles and motorbike taxis. Every square inch is cultivated: tea and banana plantations, emerald-green rice paddies, lush fields of cabbages, cassava, tomatoes, onions, avos, mangos, coffee, and patchworks of steeply terraced red earth and green fields on every hillside and valley.
A Rwandan tea picker along the road to AkageraLong-horned Ankole cattleBanana bicycles are a common sight along the roads of Rwanda
It’s a Sunday, and smartly dressed churchgoers throng the pedestrian walkways and landscaped public parks. We see billboards urging the Rwandese to care for their environment. There’s not a scrap of litter; plastic bags are banned in this small, populous country, and men with spades and women with brooms in yellow reflective jackets are hard at work cleaning the deep drainage ditches on the sides of the road. Driving towards Akagera National Park, we pass genocide memorials with big signs that read: ‘Never Again’.
Kingsley takes a moment at a genocide memorial in Rwanda
Ladislas Ndahiriwe, Akagera’s park manager, meets us at their community centre, which has busy poultry, vegetable, and craft projects. It is an educational point for school children, teachers and community members, from where over 2,000 kids visit the park annually for free.
School children welcome the Afrika Odyssey team with smiles
What a welcome! Foot-stomping, drumming, horn blowing, singing and energetic, rhythmic dancing by the Nyange cultural dance group – one of Akagera’s community initiatives. Dressed in vibrant yellow, blue and white traditional cloth, they all sign the expedition’s Scroll for Conservation with hand-scripted, heartfelt messages.
Akagera NP park manager Ladislas Ndahiriwe signs the Scroll for Conservation
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? You can plan and book your African Parks safari to Akagera National Park and other parks by clicking here.
Reaching Akagera National Park, East Africa’s largest protected wetland and a conservation miracle that’s home to Rwanda’s Big 5, is a yardstick for our Afrika Odyssey expedition. It’s park number 11 – the halfway point of this mission to connect all 22 African Parks-managed areas in 12 countries across Africa. From the welcoming smiles and positive energy already evident, we sense we’ll not be disappointed. The journey continues …
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
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Odzala-Kokoua sojourn + magnificent pics
And just when you thought things couldn’t get more bizarre… Did you know that deforestation could be linked to the spread of novel coronaviruses? And in one case, the international demand for tobacco is the culprit.
Many studies show how forests form barriers between humans and disease. Now, a new study says tobacco farmers who all but depleted Raphia farinifera palms in Uganda’s Budongo Forest Reserve have inadvertently exposed primates and other wildlife to virus-riddled bat guano. Chimpanzees, reliant on the palms for minerals, turned to feeding on bat droppings after the palms disappeared. Black and white colobus monkeys and red duikers also started feeding on the guano – which scientists found contained 27 viruses, including a novel betacoronavirus. When ecosystems are disrupted, so are relationships between species – and the risk of pathogens jumping from animals to humans increases.
The simplest daily choices we make can have extreme, unintended consequences.
This week, we share Simon’s report on his incredible trip to Odzala-Kokoua NP – see below. Plus, we have a bumper load of Photographer of the Year entries for you to see – check out our two galleries.
This walking safari tracks the wise old elephant herds as they follow the Galana River through Tsavo National Park, Kenya. Sharing the elephants’ home on equal footing and encountering the famous maneless lions, gerenuks and hirolas of Tsavo will supersede any previous game-viewing experiences you’ve had. Stay in beautiful camps harking back to a bygone era, and explore the surroundings on game drives. The perfect balance between comfort and adventure.
Experience the Great Wildebeest Migration in Kenya with this bucket-list safari. Stay at Sentinel Mara Camp, perched on the high banks of the Mara River in a cool riverine forest, and explore Musiara Marsh and Paradise Plains – known for their excellent big-cat sightings. Settle into your front-row seats for the greatest show on Earth, embrace the drama of the Mara River crossings, and enjoy the expertise of excellent Maasai guides.
Searching for more safari inspiration? Check out our wide variety ofsafari ideas here
Collaring Kruger’s lions
Ten lionesses in Kruger National Park will soon become part of an exciting project aiming to provide insight into how lion pride behaviour differs in fenced and open systems. In August, teams from Nelson Mandela University (NMU) and the Southern African Conservation Trust (SACT) will set out to fit satellite-tracking collars on the lionesses.
This exciting project aims to compare various behaviours between open and fenced systems by:
Testing the effect of pride strength on territory size;
Measuring territory infringement;
Testing the pride’s aggressive response during territory infringements;
Comparing stress levels of prides; and
Comparing the ratio of prey-resource availability to home-range size.
You can help in this important study by sponsoring a collar in full or donating any amount – large or small – to support this critical conservation project. Learn more here.
WATCH: Experience the magic of a safari in May. Explore Southern Africa’s vibrant wildlife with fewer crowds, Mozambique’s pristine beaches and Seychelles’ crystal-clear waters. Don’t miss the Maasai Mara’s secret season, and marvel at the majestic Victoria Falls in full glory. (02:30) Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
Early mornings at Odzala-Kokoua National Park’s Imbalanga Baï were usually misty, and we sipped Ethiopian coffee and snacked on delicious French toast and pineapple slices as the clearing slowly revealed itself. Exquisite red-fronted duikers grazed quietly beneath us, and curious Guereza colobus peered into our elevated lookout from overhanging canopies while African grey parrots wolf-whistled overhead. And then Hartlaub’s ducks (a lifer for me) winged in to work the baï, and dashing white-crested hornbills ghosted through the canopy. I had found paradise!
I had heard stories of the arduous journey heading north from Brazzaville to the dense equatorial rainforest of Odzala-Kokoua National Park – about a muddy, potholed, 800km road trip lasting a few days. But, I was told the journey is worth every hour because the wildlife experience once you get there is off the charts.
And so I was a tad wary and contemplative about the journey ahead as I munched an early breakfast of eggs, bacon, fresh fruit, and a gigantic croissant washed down with strong aromatic coffee. My view from the elevated Brazzaville Radisson Blu terrace was impressive – over the wide Congo River towards Kinshasa on the opposite bank. Kinshasa is, of course, the capital of the neighbouring Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) – not to be confused with Congo-Brazzaville, my choice for this safari.
And so my Africa Geographic colleague Brendan and I headed out for the arduous road trip, courtesy of an African Parks driver. Imagine our surprise when, after navigating the backstreets of downtown Brazza, we emerged onto a wide tar road and proceeded north at a decent clip. The trip lasted nine hours, broken only by a stop in an impressive town called Oyo, where we loaded up on another nostril-quivering coffee and delicious pain au chocolat at a restaurant named Les Jardins d’El. We stopped a few times to watch forest elephants (a lifer for us) feeding on the roadside. The excellent tar road is a few years old, so the proffered advice I had received was somewhat outdated.
Camp Imbalanga’s airy dining room/lounge is positioned on a raised wooden deckCamp Imbalanga’s ensuite guest chalets are discreetly positioned for privacy, a short walk along forest paths from the lodge’s main area
My first night at Camp Imbalanga in Odzala-Kokoua National Park was much like the subsequent nights – hoots, whistles, sighs and screams unfamiliar to my bushveld ears. Our first day in paradise was primarily spent in an elevated hide overlooking Imbalanga baï – an easy 3-minute walk from camp. The most distinctive characteristic of the Congo rainforest is the forest baïs – island clearings in the sea of trees. Here, marshy areas rich in minerals and salts are a magnet for wildlife. During our several visits on that first day, we watched with bated breath as two different silverback western lowland gorillas ventured into the clearing at various times to feed on grasses and herbs.
The lookout over Imbalanga BaïA western lowland gorilla in Imbalanga Baï
The gorilla experience here differs significantly from the relaxed hangout with habituated mountain gorillas in Uganda and Rwanda. No arduous trek is involved; you wait in an elevated treehouse for the gorillas to appear. These are totally wild, and they will leave if you disturb them, sometimes screaming blue murder as they canter away – a cacophony that assaults the eardrums and echoes in the confines of the baïs. Usually, though, they hang out and do gorilla things while you watch in silent awe. These gorilla encounters last as long as they remain in the clearing, and you can stay in the treehouse all day – sometimes resulting in multiple sightings. A team of researchers is in the lengthy process of habituating a family group here, ensuring a more relaxed encounter at closer quarters. Having enjoyed many habituated mountain gorilla encounters, I found this ‘wilder’ experience refreshing and less intrusive. We saw several gorillas in various baïs in the following few days, including a small family group.
Speaking of culinary delights, I cannot say enough good things about the cuisine at Camp Imbalanga. The theme is best described as Congolese fare with a sophisticated urban twist. Several dishes are prepared the traditional way – wrapped in Marantaceae leaves – and presented on your plate in a quirky way – one serving mimicked the Congo-Brazzavile flag. All meals were light yet filling, emphasising vegetarian and fish dishes. The main starch is manioc (cassava), to which is added sweet potato, various vegetables, fish, fruit, freshly baked breads and dips made of ground nuts (peanuts), spinach and smoked barbel (catfish). Barbel wrapped in leaves and roasted over open coals was heavenly, and the delicious aroma as we savoured cold beers after an extraordinary safari day is a fond memory. An indigenous fruit by the name of ‘safou’ from the African pear tree Dacryodes edulis was another highlight and a first for me – an intriguing taste blend reminiscent of avocado and lemon, with an avo texture. The kitchen crew introduced the meals with pride and face-cracking grins.
Many meals are prepared the traditional way – wrapped in Marantaceae leaves
One day, we ventured to a baï called Moba Pool – a 90-minute drive along a good forest road and a 12-minute walk. On arrival, we were greeted by a herd of forest elephants enjoying a glorious mud bath, often only seeing their bums as they floated in the water, head-down to mine the floor for precious minerals. They would regularly leave the water to spend long moments contemplating, sometimes with trunks raised as they tasted us in the air. After the elephants had ghosted into the dense forest, we enjoyed a one-hour circular walk with our guide, Plaisance Mbounga – a treasure trove of information about the plants and wildlife of the area.
Venturing on a walk in Moba Pool with guide Plaisance Mbounga and Camp Imbalanga head of tourism and commercial development, Manon Jampy
We followed wide elephant walkways through the forest, marvelled at dense flutters of colourful butterflies partying on dung balls and gazed upwards to identify avian candy such as great blue turacos and white-thighed hornbills. We drank bitter but refreshing water from freshly cut lianas (the fast-growing vine is slashed, and the liquid drips out), listened to Guereza colobus croaking in the canopy like giant bullfrogs with microphones and wondered at the sky-scraper African whitewood trees with buttress roots taller than us.
Forest buffalo gathering at the edge of a pool
A few days later, we revisited Moba Pool to find a small herd of forest buffalo wallowing in the mud. Compared to the larger, craggy Cape buffalo we have in the bushveld, they are dainty and pretty, with their tufted ears and milk chocolate coats. When not ogling the big stuff, we were kept busy in the lookout tower, racking up birding lifers. My favourite of many sightings was a flock of about 20 black-collared lovebirds that visited the baï on a few occasions.
We also sojourned to the remote Lokoué Baï – an overnight rough-camping adventure. Our journey saw us motor-boat the twisting Mambili and Lokoué rivers (Congo River tributaries), sleepover at a rustic research camp and walk two hours in the dark early hours of the following day. With headlamps shining the way, our guides hacked through the dense Marantaceae understory (which regenerates within weeks) to arrive at the baï seconds before a huge downpour descended on us. Bundling into the watchtower as the heavy drops hammered the tin roof, we were thankful for the fortuitous timing. We cracked open a flask of steaming coffee and tucked into our breakfast of boiled eggs, fried toast and pancakes. The tropical deluge continued for much of the morning. Still, between showers, we saw buffaloes, a flock of 30 grey parrots, a pair of gorillas and a very muscular silverback gorilla with two juveniles. The riverboat cruises were extremely rewarding – we spotted many birds, breaching tiger fish, slender-snouted crocodiles, a sitatunga, buffaloes, water monitors, agile and grey-cheeked mangabeys and De Brazza’s monkeys.
AG’s Simon Espley and Brendan Taylor enjoy a boat cruise on the Mambili RiverGrey parrots descend on a baï to drink water and ingest minerals and saltsA slender-snouted crocodile basks on a branch
The most memorable encounter for me was a large bull forest elephant that crossed the river in front of us – snorkelling his way to the opposite bank and clambering out – his long white tusks gleaming. When the boat was stationary, the tsetse flies were a nuisance – luckily, we did not encounter them anywhere else. This rough camping adventure is extremely enjoyable for those with a sense of adventure, but note that the night in the research camp is very rustic – with thin mattresses and sleeping bags under a large tin-roofed open-sided shed. We were given a bucket of water and a bar of soap to scrub up before turning in. The food was superb, and the service was excellent. We were offered the possibility of venturing further north to Capitale Baï, where hyenas are known to hunt elephants and large flocks of grey parrots and green pigeons congregate. Sadly, time was not on our side, so we returned to Camp Imbalanga by late afternoon on the second day.
A cruise along the Mambili River
Our mission to Odzala-Kokoua was to document Camp Imbalanga, so we did not have the necessary time to search for jewels such as dwarf crocodile, bongo, golden potto, Demidoff’s dwarf galago, Lord Derby’s flying squirrel or a host of other mysterious creatures. Oh well, I will have to return soon …
THANKS
Our adventure was made all the more enjoyable by Manon Jampy, Odzala-Kokoua National Park head of tourism and commercial development, who played host and interpreter (most staff only speak French). Manon is an inspirational soul whose positive energy affects all lucky enough to spend time with her. Thanks also to legendary park manager Jonas Eriksson, who ensured our pre-trip arrangements went smoothly. Jonas and I enjoyed a stimulating mug of coffee while waiting for gorillas to appear at Imbalanga Baï. I was like a sponge absorbing his wisdom. Most importantly, our adventure was made thoroughly enjoyable by the entire team at Odzala-Kokoua – their endearing smiles, efficiency, and patience with our requests stood out for Brendan and me, and we carry fond memories. This young Congolese team is learning the tourism trade at an impressive pace – they have much to feel proud of.
Camp Imbalanga is a fully catered tented lodge featuring four ensuite canvas chalets for eight guests.
Nestled under the shady canopy of enormous trees, the ensuite guest chalets – discreetly positioned for privacy – are a short walk along forest paths from the central area. Each is on a raised wooden deck and shelters under a palm frond roof.
The central area, also on a raised wooden deck, features an airy dining room, lounge, kitchen area, small shop and firepit.
The unfenced forest camp is three minutes along a walkway from Imbalanga Baï, one of many baïs in Odzala-Kokoua National Park, where guests can view secretive wildlife species such as western lowland gorillas and forest elephants.
There are no rim-flow pools, air conditioning, or Wi-Fi. Camp Imbalanga is for those seeking a truly immersive experience powered by local people.
WATCH – about Camp Imbalanga:
African Parks:
Odzala-Kokoua National Park is managed by African Parks in collaboration with Congo-Brazzavile’s Ministry of Forest Economy, Sustainable Development and Environment. African Parks is a non-profit conservation organisation that takes on complete responsibility for the rehabilitation and long-term management of national parks in partnership with governments and local communities. They currently manage 22 national parks and protected areas in 12 countries covering over 20 million hectares.
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Mission Bazaruto + stellar photos + Zanzibar special
Does an African safari really make a difference at ground level? The short answer is YES, it does, but some more than others. Every lodge/camp employs local people with cascading benefits for their dependents and the local economy. The more benefits local people derive from the safari tourism industry and NGO activities, the more inclined they will be to support conservation and resist alternative land uses such as farming, mining, logging and trophy hunting. Many lodges have concerted programs that involve education and health benefits for local people – and more. Most will happily provide you with details if you ask them – or you can ask our safari experts to dig further to help craft your responsible safari. To do that, visit our website via the links below and follow the prompts.
How can you increase the positive impact of your safari? There are many ways, but here are three that stand out like a giant knobbly baobab against the starlit night sky:
Why not venture beyond the ‘prime’ safari season of June to September? By doing so, you reduce the environmental footprint (fewer people and vehicles to impact on the landscape and wildlife movement) and open yourself up to some of Africa’s most unique experiences – the hidden gems that safari connoisseurs often seek out. To help you plan, we’ve provided a detailed month-by-month guide to a typical year in Africa.
As a responsible traveller, you can shape the future of African safaris. Consider including visits to remote areas that are less popular than the heavily marketed destinations. These off-the-beaten-path locations often offer unique experiences and can significantly benefit from your visit. You can find a variety of these locations in this taste of ready-made safari packages.
And you could try ‘COALITION‘ – an innovative campaign dreamt up by my team that speaks for itself.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Hyenas and porcupines don’t get along, nor do hyenas and warthogs, or porcupines and warthogs, for that matter. Fair enough. So how do these three species end up shacking up underground?
Researchers have observed spotted hyenas, porcupines and warthogs – on more than one occasion – sharing the same den site in Kenya’s Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. One site was home to as many as two porcupines, six warthogs and 11 hyenas at one time – who often entered the den within minutes of each other. Not only did the animals remain safe inside with no conflict, but the hyenas also did not prey on their bedfellows on the surface. The key to the peaceful cohabitation boiled down to three things: sharing bones (at least between the hyenas and porcupines), having separate bed chambers, and, on the hyena’s part, not being able to move enough in the tight space to inflict harm. Fascinating!
Check out our Photographer of the Year gallery below (there’s less than one month left to enter!), and read about Kingsley Holgate’s mission of hope to Mozambique’s paradise island of Bazaruto Archipelago National Park.
Bush or beach? Now is the time to start planning your safari – whether to see the Great Wildebeest Migration in Tanzania, or to soak up the island vibe of Zanzibar. Or why not combine the two?
The Great Wildebeest Migration in Serengeti National Park, Tanzania, is a BUCKET-LIST experience. This safari offers a front-row seat as vast herds of wildebeest make their way through the open plains of the Serengeti. Don’t miss your chance to witness this epic wildlife bonanza.
This special offer on an escape to the island PARADISE of Zanzibar will have your toes curling in delight. Spend your days at Kilindi Zanzibar chilling in a hammock gazing over the ocean, or out snorkelling, kayaking and enjoying the warm azure-blue waters.
Our safari experts have been busy planning epic safari experiences for our tribe. From a 17-day safari across three countries (SA, Kenya & Tanzania), to a gorilla-trekking safari to Rwanda and Uganda, and a special-occasion safari to the Okavango Delta in Botswana: here’s what our travellers had to say.
“I would not change anything… Nadia helped us design a fantastic 17-day safari adventure across three countries (on short notice). Everything worked seamlessly, from flights, to properties, to transfers. More importantly, she helped immediately with any questions we had mid-journey. We could not be happier with our decision to travel with Africa Geographic. An amazing experience, with no friction.”
“An excellent and well-organised tour of Rwanda and Uganda!”
“Christian from Africa Geographic was really good in helping us with a special-occasion safari. His advice on selection of camps in the Okavango was really good. All arrangements worked well and it was a great experience.”
WATCH: Once extremely numerous, the African penguin population has plummeted from one million breeding pairs to a tiny fraction of this figure. Commercial fishing, marine pollution, and habitat destruction have taken their toll. Due to increasing pressure, the African penguin could be wiped out within a decade without active intervention. (05:18) Click here to watch
Our mission in Mozambique is to reach the Bazaruto Archipelago National Park, number 10 of this Afrika Odyssey quest to connect all 22 African Parks-managed protected areas in 12 countries. Not far from the town of Vilanculos, a new, marine-themed wildlife adventure awaits.
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
We’re hosted by old friend Veronica Bouwer, funding and special projects manager for the Bazaruto Archipelago National Park. Many years ago, she’d shared the thrills and spills of one of our expeditions in inflatable boats up the Rio Rovuma, that fascinating river that separates southern Tanzania from northern Mozambique. Now, some 20 years later, we’re in a boat again. Still, this time, it’s a state-of-the-art, shark-grey coloured 24 Novacat – African Parks’ patrol boat with two big 4-stroke outboard engines – destination Paradise Island, now known as Ilha de Santa Carolina.
Swapping the expedition Defenders for the African Parks Novacat to reach Bazaruto Archipelago
Spanning 1,430km² of the sea and five islands, the Bazaruto Archipelago is a thriving haven and one of the most critical marine sanctuaries in the Indian Ocean, protecting a host of marine species, including dolphins sharks, whales, manta rays, turtles and the largest viable dugong populations on the East African coast. Heading towards the sparkling white sand island beach, it’s as if we’re being escorted by a pod of dolphins gambolling beside the boat. Then, visible in the clear aquamarine water, several green turtle hatchlings rise to the surface – one of five turtle species that reside here. Bazaruto is the only known place in the western Indian Ocean where all five species nest every year.
Paradise Island is the only deserted island in the Archipelago, but that wasn’t always the case. We explore the fading pink and green ruins of the once-opulent Santa Carolina Hotel, which was renowned for hedonistic parties of the rich and famous in the 50s, 60s, and 70s. It’s rumoured that Elton John was a regular visitor, playing the grand piano in the ballroom with its endless turquoise sea views, and Bob Dylan penned his hit song ‘Mozambique’ here.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
Back in the patrol boat and heading for Bazaruto Island, the skipper squints into the sun and shouts, “Dugong!” He eases the boat slowly towards the ripples on the surface, and we lean over the side, eagerly searching for a glimpse. However, the dugong submerges and is quickly lost in sight. Still, its incredible marine conservation story is not lost on us.
Bazaruto is known as a safe haven for dugongs
In 2022, the dugong was relisted as ‘Critically Endangered’ on the IUCN Red List, giving it the highest level of protection. In the past five years, the African Parks team on the islands has worked tirelessly to provide jobs and livelihoods for the Archipelago’s inhabitants and nurture a growing understanding of the benefits of protecting their unique marine biodiversity. We’re told that dugong deaths caused by fishing nets have almost completely stopped, illegal activities have substantially declined, and an aerial count this year showed an increase in the dugong population with many new calves spotted—another great story of hope for conservation on this Afrika Odyssey journey.
Not a scrap of litter on the beaches of Bazaruto – thanks to the work of the women employed by the Basisa Bazaruto community group
We mention to Veronica and her team how clean the beaches are; there’s not a scrap of litter, no old plastic bottles or washed-up rubbish – almost unheard of these days – and it adds significantly to the beauty of Bazaruto. Soon, we get to know why; as the patrol boat weighs anchor in knee-deep water and we wade ashore, a singing, dancing group of women colourfully dressed in bright blue and white kangas come down the beach to greet us. It’s the Basisa Bazaruto community group that employs 50 women, who last year removed over 167 tonnes of waste from the Archipelago and sent it by dhow to the mainland for recycling. What delightful characters!
The Basisa Bazaruto ladies, with Kingsley and Sheelagh, carrying collected waste
We dance barefoot in the sand, help carry the hessian sacks, and sort through the day’s collected waste. It’s the best clean-up project we’ve ever encountered and another excellent example of how African Parks and its partners realise the importance of involving communities—and have a great deal of fun while they’re doing it.
The Bazaruto dhow loaded with waste ready for recycling
We ask Veronica where she’d like to add a splash of symbolic Bazaruto Archipelago water to the expedition’s calabash, expecting her to say from one of the beaches. But she’s a free spirit and opts for an inland, freshwater island lake. “It’s beautiful in the interior,” she says, pointing to a map. “But – you won’t believe this – we’ll have to be careful of the crocs! And we’ll have to use the island’s tractor and trailer to get there.”
Bouncing like rubber balls on a tractor ride into the interior of Bazaruto Island
It’s a beautiful day, and we’re reminded of Bob Dylan’s words: ‘I’d like to spend some time in Mozambique, the sunny sky is aqua-blue….’ as we pile our bags and tailgate lunch boxes into the trailer. It has a solid suspension, so we bounce like rubber balls, passing island villages and stopping at vegetable gardens that Veronica and her community team helped establish. Lake Lengue is beautifully calm, with hardly a ripple in the water. We keep a careful watch as Veronica, Marcella and Niema dip the much-travelled calabash – the 10th and last addition of water for this southern Africa chapter. Someone shouts, “CROC!” and the three ladies race out of the lake as if shot from a cannon; laughter all around – we celebrate with an Eixx (2M beer).
Veronica, Marcella and Niema from the Bazaruto community team collect Lake Lengue water
Many memories are created from our fascinating time on the Bazaruto Archipelago, especially at Sitone basecamp and again at the Chizungune ranger post, where the rangers—full of humour and camaraderie and totally committed to protecting this marine park—enthusiastically gathered to add their messages to the Scroll of Peace and Goodwill for Conservation that we’re carrying across the continent.
The African Parks Bazaruto team
The last time messages written in Portuguese were added to the Scroll was over 100 days ago at Parque Nationale du Iona on the Atlantic coast of southwest Angola – the very first of the African Parks-managed wildlife areas on this journey. Now, here on the Indian Ocean coast, after a 23,000km west-to-east, cross-continental journey to experience first-hand the inspiring revival of 10 national parks with so many uplifting community and cultural encounters, we’ve completed the southern Africa chapter of this Afrika Odyssey expedition.
Friends, at a time when there are so many stories of doom and gloom for conservation in the headlines, how wonderful it is for us to be part of a greater story of hope for Africa’s wild spaces and the communities that depend on them.
It’s now time for Chapter Two of this wildlife-themed odyssey. We replenish the depleted expedition grub boxes, breathe an immense sigh of relief when crucial visas arrive just in the nick of time, and repack the two trusty expedition Defender 130s to the roof racks with more conservation and humanitarian supplies. The Scroll (now heavy with hundreds of heartwarming messages) and the most travelled African calabash in the world, which collects symbolic water from each park we visit, are given pride of place.
Timeless: a sailing dhow floats across Bazaruto waters at sunset
Heading north, our next African Park destination is Akagera National Park, the largest protected wetland and the last remaining refuge for savannah species in Rwanda. This second chapter also includes a challenging journey into the remote northeast corner of the DRC and then South Sudan. It promises to be even more of an adventure with captivating conservation and community stories waiting to be revealed—we will keep you posted.
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
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Tuskers death toll reaches 5 + breathtaking photos
FIVE. The death toll of giant Amboseli elephants by trophy hunting in recent months has risen to 5. These icons are protected against hunting in Kenya but not when they wander across the border into Tanzania.
In what can best be described as eco-sabotage, a small but influential cabal of Tanzanian trophy-hunting operators are driving their industry over a cliff. These morally bankrupt individuals have one goal in mind – loads of cash – and have enough clients slobbering at the mouth to bag one of the last 100-pounders before they are either protected or extinct.
Numerous trophy hunters have contacted us to express their concerns, but few have spoken out with any conviction against the rotten eggs in their industry. And there are enough ethical hunters in the online forums we monitor to stop the rot. But none of them go beyond a few words of concern.
The tourism industry, too, remains largely silent. A leading entity representing many of us – tour operators and lodges – refused to publish to their members our concern about the situation. Are we the only high-profile tourism brand prepared to speak out publicly?
Obviously, boycotting Tanzania’s tourism industry would be disastrous. That route would weaken tourism and make trophy hunting more important as a revenue generator. What we need is for more members of the tourism and broader hunting industries to stick their necks out and demand an end to this attack by a few delinquent trophy-hunting operators on the remaining tusker population across Africa.
History will judge our generation for not taking decisive action against the evil ones.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
In non-human primates, aggression is often used to maintain social order (quite the opposite of its effects in human society).
Chimpanzees have a reputation as the most aggressive of the apes – often resorting to lethal violence. But bonobos – our close relatives – were long thought of as the mellow peacemakers of the animal kingdom. But did you know that bonobos are actually quite aggressive – perhaps even more so than notoriously forceful chimps?
Researchers studying bonobos in the Democratic Republic of Congo and chimpanzees in Tanzania compared male behaviour in both species and found that acts of aggression – such as hitting, biting and chasing – were more common in bonobos. Aggressive bonobos were also more successful in mating. But, other academics have suggested that comparing aggressive behaviour in the two species is not fair, as chimpanzees are known to kill, while bonobos are not. At least the bonobos have one up on humans in that respect.
Speaking of… don’t miss our update on the trophy hunting of ANOTHER two large tuskers along the Tanzania/Kenya border below. Also, check out the important report on the state of Africa’s migratory animals, and this week’s breathtaking Photographer of the Year gallery.
This primate quest will take you to meet the apes and monkeys of East and Central Africa. From critically endangered Grauer’s gorillas and legendary mountain gorillas to charismatic golden monkeys and noisy chimpanzees, this safari is a celebration of all things primate. You’ll visit Rwanda, Uganda and DRC, and the spectacular scenery and enthralling birding are added bonuses!
This is an off-the-beaten-track safari in Kenya for those who want the magnificence of the Maasai Mara National Reserve without the crowds. Search for the Big 5, enjoy prolific bird life, and visit local Maasai villages and markets to enjoy an authentic cultural experience. You’ll stay at intimate owner-run Enkewa Camp, where you’ll feel like part of the family – while still enjoying the tranquillity of privacy.
Have you submitted your entry for Photographer of the Year 2024? There is just ONE MONTH LEFT to get your entries in. Visit our website for all you need to know, from how and where to enter, to our competition rules and the epic prizes on offer – including a conservation safari and a lion research collar sponsored in your name. Don’t miss your chance to become the next Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year!
WATCH: Akagera National Park, Rwanda, is home to Central Africa’s largest protected wetland, consisting of a complex system of lakes linked by papyrus-lined swamps. In the remote north of the park, you will find Karenge Bush Camp, perched on a ridge overlooking the wildlife-rich Kilala Plains below. Karenge is an off-the-grid getaway for safari enthusiasts seeking privacy and solitude. (06:31) Click here to watch
Migratory animals come in all forms and shapes, from bats to birds, wildebeests to whales. But most migratory species have one thing in common: they face increasing anthropogenic damage to their habitats and migratory corridors.
A report released by the United Nations Convention on the Conservation of Migratory Species of Wild Animals has shown a drastic decline in the world’s travelling animals. The conservation status of many migratory species faces dire prospects, with those occurring in Africa facing the sharpest declines.
Migratory animals migrate across national jurisdictional boundaries for a variety of reasons. Sometimes, species track favourable resources or move to different climates. Sometimes, animals are in search of optimal breeding sites (such as areas with suitable resources to feed and nourish the young safely). Sometimes, whole populations move, and sometimes, solitary individuals migrate.
But the flyways, swim ways, and migratory paths of these travelling animals have lost the resources and security previously offered. The connectivity between their departure and destination has been fragmented by land use change, pollution (noise, light, and chemical pollution), hunting, and/or climate change. How can we prioritise the same security for migratory animals, like the vultures and whales of Africa?
Why should we care?
Beyond the fact that our wildlife has an intrinsic right to exist on earth, as much as we do, these animals play valuable roles in the agricultural sector (bats and other mammals, bugs and birds are important pollinators), in our culture, as a food source and in our recreational activities (tourism, etc.). They can be ecosystem regulators and provide food for other species (prey) or regulate the abundance of different species (predators).
The Convention on the Conservation of Migratory Species (CMS) is an international framework developed to protect the travel requirements of migratory species. The latest report from the CMS indicates that more than one in five CMS-listed species are threatened with extinction, and 44% have a decreasing population trend. Worryingly, 97% of CMS-listed fish species are threatened with extinction. Fish don’t have many travel options; they can take the river – and that’s it. Significant barriers, such as dams, are not conducive to fish migration.
CMS-listed species in Africa have shown an average decrease of 27% in abundance between 1970 and 2017. But not only abundance matters – sometimes even losing individuals within a population of migratory species poses a considerable risk, especially for long-lived animals (like elephants) that rely on social learning and collective memory to successfully navigate key corridors.
When species cross countries, conservation laws and policies change too – and though a species population might be well-protected in one country, there is no guarantee that it will afford this protection in another country. For example, since commercial whaling was stopped in the 1980s, the subpopulation of humpback whales in the South Atlantic has increased. However, the subpopulation in the Arabian Sea has fewer than 350 individuals and is threatened by ship strikes and entanglement from fish nets.
The long and winding road for migratory species: threats
Unsustainable hunting and collecting affects nearly three-quarters of all CMS-listed terrestrial mammals (70%) and is particularly of concern in regions affected by political instability or poverty. Hunting of birds in western and southeastern Africa is often not monitored – this hinders the international community’s ability to tally the global impact on the species and prevents accurate quota setting.
The Serengeti-Mara ecosystem provides a prime example of how agriculture, settlements, roads and fences have caused habitat loss and fragmentation – affecting migratory routes for the Great Wildebeest Migration
The impact of ongoing human encroachment on habitats is pervasive, as is evident in the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem in Tanzania and Kenya, where the Great Wildebeest Migration occurs. Agriculture, settlements, roads, and fences change the quality and availability of habitat for the blue wildebeest and plains zebra, which in turn affects the CMS-listed apex predators, including cheetah, lion, and African wild dog, that rely on these migrations.
The increase in land use for agriculture also results in insect population declines, which removes a key food source for migratory birds. Dugongs suffer from similar issues, but their migratory habitat is seagrass, which is lost through port expansion and pollution.
The degradation of seagrass threatens the conservation of dugongs
Energy infrastructure also impacts migration, such as wind turbines, which can potentially disrupt the migratory paths of birds like the black harrier. Barriers to migration are not only from permanent infrastructure – shipping traffic has increased, and along with this, ship strikes on whale sharks and cetaceans are increasing.
Climate change has many ramifications for migrating species because they follow seasonal resources. Imagine migrating hundreds of kilometres to reach spring in your preferred breeding site, only to find that it’s still winter there.
Climate change also has other unexpected impacts on migratory species; for example, African wild dogs hunt less in extreme heat and rear fewer pups than those raising pups in cooler weather.
Climate change can affect the number of pups reared by wild dogs
So what can be done about these issues?
The CMS provides a solution-based, cooperative approach to assist migratory species in their travels. They are like a travel agency for animals, working with governments, civil society and the private sector to create connected journeys for species through difficult terrain and looming threats. For example, the CMS Energy Task Force is a global forum that guides renewable-energy activities to avoid and minimise negative impacts on migratory species.
Only through collaboration at all levels of society and sectors will we succeed in protecting our travelling fauna on their long and windy paths through this world.
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
Last week I mentioned a rather hilarious gorilla encounter in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. That got me thinking of the difference between encounters with habituated and non-habituated gorillas. Chalk and cheese. Of course, both types of encounter are with wild gorillas, but the habituation aspect of gorilla encounters in Uganda and Rwanda does result in a different experience.
During a recent expedition to Odzala-Kokoua National Park in Congo-Brazzaville, I was lucky enough to encounter non-habituated western lowland gorillas on several occasions. All of these encounters were while waiting patiently – often for many hours – in observation towers on the edge of forest clearings known as baïs. The gorillas will often leave immediately if you disturb them, sometimes screaming blue murder – a cacophony that assaults the eardrums and echoes in the confines of the baïs.
Of course habituated gorilla encounters are one of the world’s best wildlife encounters – which I recommend highly – and they raise significant amounts of money to keep mountain gorillas safe. That said, having thoroughly enjoyed both types of encounter for what they are, I found the ‘wilder’ experience in Odzala-Kokoua refreshing and less intrusive.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
And now for something completely macabre… In ancient Greece, the Scythians would sew together the scalps of their enemies to make cloaks. This is one of the earliest accounts of such morbid behaviour. But there is a creature in Africa that can one-up the Scythians – by wearing a backpack made up of the bodies of its victims.
Acanthaspis petax is an assassin bug found in Kenya and Tanzania that disguises itself by covering its body in corpses. The bug is often seen moving around with this “backpack” on its abdomen – usually made up of the empty corpses of ants. Researchers think this acts as olfactory camouflage for when the bug is hunting other ants, or as a visual distraction for larger creatures trying to hunt the bug. At least this “defense mechanism” proves very effective in deterring predators…
Below, check out Irene Amiet’s travel diary from Busanga Plains, the jewel of Kafue, and don’t miss the magnificent photos from this week’s Photographer of the Year selection.
Let us take you on an adventure. Fancy seeing all Namibia has to offer? Or perhaps experiencing the glamping safari of your dreams? Check out these once-in-a-lifetime safaris:
Experience the best of Namibia, from the red dunes of Sossusvlei and the wildlife of Etosha to the prolific bird life in Walvis Bay’s coastal wetlands. Over 13 days, your private guide will reveal the majesty of Namibia, its phenomenal wildlife and compelling historical and cultural diversity. You will have plenty of time to explore this vast country, meet local people and experience Namibia’s fauna and flora.
This is the glamping safari that dreams are made of: six days in the intoxicating Okavango Delta on a fully catered mobile safari. You’ll be led by experienced guides while exploring Khwai Community Concession and Moremi Game Reserve. Go in search of the big cats and wild dogs in the dry woodlands and floodplains, and glide down meandering waterways in a mokoro in search of hippos, elephants and avian candy.
WATCH: Odzala-Kokoua National Park is an epic destination for experiencing Congo-Brazzaville’s secretive wildlife species such as western lowland gorillas and forest elephants. Camp Imbalanga, nestled under the shady canopy of enormous trees, is an unfenced forest camp a short walk from Imbalanga Baï – one of many baïs in the park. (01:54) Click here to watch
The horizon as seen from Busanga Plains stretches in every direction and the lowering sun paints the grasslands with a gilded brush this late afternoon. Every lechwe’s horn, every stone is set aglow. The hippos’ eyes catch the metallic light as does the spray their crashing jaws create. Two male puku stand still and alert by the last of the water, their eyes trained to a spot beyond our vehicle.
Despite the cover of tall papyrus reeds, the antelopes sense danger.
Hidden from their sight are no less than twenty lions. Three generations lay outstretched on their backs, paws in the air as they roll around before falling back into a digestive coma. This pride includes such Busanga legends as the lion referred to by some as “Killing Machine”, a grandmother now, and her daughter, “Princess” as well as their sub-adult-offspring and smaller cubs from a different litter.
One cub raises on her haunches, waiting patiently for the puku to relax and lower their heads to drink before she charges at them, just as the adults have taught her. The attempt is half-hearted and the puku scatter safe of striking distance, blowing sharp warning calls through their nostrils.
This scene plays out in an area of Zambia’s Kafue National Park which is over 90 air-minutes away from the big cities of Lusaka and Livingstone, where we spent a few days exploring the plains. Stretching over 720km², Busanga Plains is at the top of the list when it comes to game viewing – as there is a low ratio of human visitors to wildlife.
The plains are only accessible between April and October when the floods have receded enough to allow for road transport but those four months offer some of the best game viewing in Southern Africa. Thousands of red lechwe and puku assemble along the receding water channels which shelter hippos and catfish.
The ancient head of a crocodile breaches the water, snapping at some unsuspecting jacana. Crowned cranes and yellow-billed storks shake their wings in airborne retreat before carefully stalking back to their fishing spot.
A southern ground-hornbill glides past like a marionette from a puppet show taken flight. Surrounding the plains are woodlands which shelter elephants during the heat of the day. The woodlands allow ample foliage for the browsers, and even for the grazers such as roan and sable antelope who may also take a selective nip here and there. And, there are plenty of spots for hyenas to build their dens. We spot all of these during a four-hour morning drive.
This game-rich habitat makes Busanga a veritable paradise for lions, many of which have been captured in documentary series such as Swamp Lions and Kings of Busanga Plains.
Early one morning, we get to witness the pride male “General” follow a female referred to as “Nala”. He stalks her along thin-stemmed acacia trees and across open plains, his mane coiffed by the breeze, a silhouette fit for a movie. Unfortunately, his intended catches sight of a young intruder who piques her interest. She makes a dash for the stranger with the golden coat, General in hot pursuit. The youngster sees the battle-scarred elder and runs for his life. Soon after, Nala’s focus is back on the old and trusted General who pursues her for three hours with intermittent rest to mark his territory.
This time of year, the plains are thirsting for water, and the clouds assemble at night only to disperse by morning. Thunder can be heard in the distance, but the sun breaks through once more. As there are no geographical restrictions, a wind often swipes across the plains, which in the warmer months can feel as if a blow-dryer was aimed at one’s face.
As the heat rises, we leave the lions, who have found a shaded spot on one of the raised patches of shrubbery and palm trees – which would be islands in the wet season.
When the sun sets, more hippos start grunting, competing for the deepest water, and we watch the grenadine red skies melt into darkness, with the occasional opened jaws breaking the dusky silhouette. Their grunts will accompany us throughout the night and blend with the lion’s deep call as we lay in our tents, immersed in this truly remote wilderness, the truest luxury of a safari experience.
Red lechwes engage in battleSibling love on the plainsA large crocodile emerges from the flooded plainsSouthern ground-hornbill in flightAcacias tower over a pride maleA tussle between hippos during the heat of the dayScarred old male “General” engaged in a slow pursuit of female, “Nala”A spotted hyena cub frollicking on the plainsEasing into an afternoon dozeBusanga Plains at dawn
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? African Parks has been responsible for the management of Kafue National Park since 2022. Kafue became the 20th park in African Park’s portfolio of stabilised and rehabilitated protected areas across the continent. Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
Kafue National Park is Zambia’s oldest and largest national park – known for sweeping plains and wetlands, and abundant and unique wildlife. Read more about Kafue here.
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
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The truth about KAZA’s elephants + mesmerising pics
I have an amusing gorilla story for you. Many years ago, I was relaxing on the verandah of a chalet in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, having just spent an epic morning birding this avian treasure trove. My lodge of choice was a few hundred meters from Bwindi’s gorilla-trekking centre in Buhoma – the starting point for all hikes in this area. [Gorilla trekking in Bwindi](https://travel.africageographic.com/travel/safaris/gorilla-trekking-in-bwindi-uganda) can last up to six or eight hours and take you deep into the forested hills.
Lo and behold, a family of mountain gorillas emerged from the dense undergrowth, ambled towards me, and settled about 10m away. This was a welcome bonus to an already superb day because normally, you have to pay a gorilla-trekking fee and hike for hours. Yet here they were at my chalet!
The cherry on top was when a party of eight tourists arrived with their guides. This was the culmination of their trek to find their allocated gorilla family group. So they settled in a few meters away to enjoy their 60 minutes of gorilla time while I, feet up on my verandah, sipped my delicious African tea and nibbled on freshly baked ginger biscuits, pretending all the while that this was not absolutely hilarious!
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Who wants to live forever?
In this week’s Photographer of the Year gallery, you will find a striking image of an ancient welwitschia captured by Wiktoria West. Like baobabs and cycads, welwitschias can live to well over 1000 years old. But did you know that there are some animals on earth that can outlive these plants, and some that can even live forever? Forget 120-year-old crocodiles, 200-year-old bowhead whales and 500-year-old clams: coral-like glass sponges can live in the deep ocean for 10,000+ years.
But, there is a group of small aquatic invertebrates, known as hydras, that have the potential to live forever. As hydras are made up of stem cells, they are able to regenerate through duplication, and don’t deteriorate as they age. They can also regrow lost body parts – even their heads. While the “immortal” hydras can die when eaten by predators, if able to avoid external dangers, (in theory) they can regenerate forever.
You can check out Wiktoria’s welwitschia and other mesmerising photos in this week’s gallery. And then, a new analysis of elephant population trends in KAZA (covering land in Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, and Zimbabwe) shows the impact of poaching and trophy hunting on elephants, slowed population growth, and negative population trends outside of protected areas – check out this important story below.
Dreaming of your bucket-list Maasai Mara safari or longing for a magical gorilla-trekking experience in Uganda? Or better yet – why not combine the two? Check out the epic safaris below, or let our travel team help you plan your dream safari
Explore the northernmost limits of the Maasai Mara-Serengeti ecosystem while skipping the migration-season crowds. Using Sentinel Mara Camp as your base, you’ll go in search of resident lion prides, cheetahs, and leopards. You’ll also find elephants, plains game, and exceptionally gorgeous sunsets – all critical ingredients to the quintessential Maasai Mara experience.
Trekking mountain gorillas is one of the most exhilarating experiences in the world – and where better to do this than Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, the birthplace of mountain-gorilla trekking? On this safari, you’ll also seek out the tree-climbing lions of Queen Elizabeth National Park and explore the biodiversity of Entebbe Botanical Gardens.
Help save poached pangolins
Remember the pangolin brought into Provet Animal Hospital around eight months ago? She was confiscated from the illegal wildlife trade and found clutching her 230-gram newborn pup which was born prematurely.
Thanks to Provet Wildlife Services and Umoya Khulula Wildlife Centre, this pangolin pup is now a very lively and feisty teenager, weighing over 5kg.
The cost of rescuing a pangolin and hospitalising it for ONE week is about US$800 (R15,000). You can help with this process by donating and lending your support to the hard-working teams who are dedicated to saving Africa’s pangolins.
Note: all pangolins are housed at offsite locations for security reasons
WATCH: Wouldn’t you rather be on safari? Check out this video for inspiration – and let Africa Geographic take you there with our unique, handcrafted safaris. (00:45) Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
A technical review of a recent census of elephant populations in southern Africa provides thought-provoking details behind the broader figures. Detailed analysis of population and carcass trends by country and region reveals the impact of poaching and trophy hunting on elephants. This granular information allows us to understand the human impacts on elephants better and empowers conservationists to make informed decisions.
[Editorial note: Useful definitions and explanations for some of the terms used can be found at the end of the article.]
At the end of 2023, the Kavango-Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area 2022 KAZA Elephant Survey results, revealing an estimated population of 227,900 savannah elephants. The magnitude of such an endeavour cannot be underestimated: KAZA covers a 520,000km2 network of landscapes across five different countries (Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, and Zimbabwe), and to count its elephants is an undeniably impressive feat. The results suggest with cautious optimism that the world’s largest population of savannah elephants remains stable.
Yet the problem with viewing this massive region through a wide-angle metapopulation lens is that vital country- and regional-level nuances are lost. Some of these missing details have essential ramifications for guiding management and conservation policies. In the space of a few months since the release of the survey report, non-governmental organisation Elephants without Borders (EWB) has produced their technical review of the results. They offer a more granular analysis of elephant population trends and compare the data with those of previous surveys to provide comprehensive context.
Some of the important questions they set out to answer included:
How and where are populations changing within countries?
Are large elephant populations in Zimbabwe and Botswana still growing?
How are elephant populations faring where hunting is occurring?
Is poaching affecting elephant populations in KAZA?
Their 36-page report, which uses more localised data to focus on trends and changes, offers detailed answers to some of these questions and more. We have summarised the more critical aspects of their findings below.
Northern Botswana’s elephants
As expected, the 2022 KAZA Elephant Survey revealed Botswana to be home to most of the KAZA elephant population (58%). In addition to this fact, there are several reasons why this region is of particular interest to policymakers and conservationists. One particularly sensitive aspect is the lifting of the elephant trophy hunting moratorium in 2019, often defended by the rhetoric of a rapidly expanding elephant population. Another is growing evidence of increased poaching activity.
According to the EWB analysis, overall elephant populations in northern Botswana have changed little between 2010 and 2022 (in direct contradiction to several government statements). At most, the report indicates a maximum growth rate of 2% per year between 2010 and 2022 and emphasises that “elephant numbers are no longer proliferating in Botswana”.
However, there are notable differences in the population trends across the different landscapes. Elephant numbers within Moremi Game Reserve, Chobe National Park, the Okavango Delta, and surrounding ecotourism regions remained either stable or increased between 2018 and 2022. Outside of these protected areas, many forest reserves, farming areas, and hunting blocks have shown negative population trends.
The authors of the EWB report also spent time separately analysing trends within the Okavango Panhandle populations. They explain their specific focus on this region as it is home to “controversial” elephant populations, plagued by perceptions of burgeoning populations and increased human-wildlife conflict. The report concludes that, once again, contrary to public government statements, elephant numbers have remained roughly stable in the Panhandle since 2010. Comparison with more recent surveys revealed an 18% decline in overall elephant numbers since 2018.
Mortalities and poaching
All carcass ratios in northern Botswana increased substantially between 2014 and 2022 (from 8.2 % to 12.4%). To put this into context, 8% is generally considered by ecologists and statisticians to be the cut-off for a growing or stable population. If the ratio is higher, mortalities likely outweigh births, resulting in a decreasing population. 63% of Botswana’s elephant population occupies regions with a greater carcass ratio than 8%. Once again, this was not a homogenous change seen across all of the areas surveyed: carcass ratios in Moremi Game Reserve, Chobe National Park, the Okavango Delta, and surrounding ecotourism regions remained either unchanged or decreased. The most significant increases were seen in the southeastern part of the study area, where elephant populations were also noted to have declined.
Equally concerningly, of all the regions surveyed in 2022, Botswana’s fresh/recent carcass ratio (mortalities within 12 months of the survey) was also the highest (0.70%) in KAZA. During EWB’s 2018 study, researchers identified several poaching “hotspots”, including parts of the Okavango Panhandle and the Khwai area. Encouragingly, fresh/recent carcass ratios were lower in these regions. However, they were raised at the border with Namibia near the Kwando and Chobe Rivers and the Savute region of Chobe. According to the 2022 KAZA Elephant Survey report, these carcasses were examined and found to have their tusks intact. However, EWB reports conducting reconnaissance flights in 2023 and 2024 (after the 2022 survey flights) and locating 56 poached elephants. Most of these were found in NG15 and NG18 (the Linyanti region just west of Chobe National Park).
This documentation of poached elephants was done over a small area, and numbers may also be high in areas not assessed, with the study noting that “this small sample is not sufficient for estimating poaching rates in an area of over 500,000 km2. More monitoring of poaching is badly needed in KAZA.”
Hunting
During their analysis, EWB compared elephant population trends in areas with and without trophy hunting to understand how hunting might affect elephant dynamics or vice versa. They found that between 2018 and 2022, the elephant numbers, on average, increased in areas without hunting and decreased significantly in those with hunting. The same pattern was observed for breeding herds and bulls, though the changes across the intervening four years were insignificant for bulls. These changes do not suggest that trophy hunting is causing an overall population decline but rather that elephants are moving from hunting to non-hunting areas (which, it should be noted, could cause complications if elephants move to areas with higher human populations – exacerbating human-elephant conflict).
The cause for these shifts remains unknown, though the authors suggest that elephants may be shifting to avoid the disturbance caused by trophy hunting. They also highlight that if these movements are a consequence of trophy hunting, they may undermine the initial reasons for reinstation and call into question its sustainability as a practice.
Angola
Though Angola and Zambia combined are home to just 4% of KAZA’s elephants, the former has gained considerable interest as a potential elephant habitat since the end of the Angolan Civil War in the early 2000s. So much so that it has even been suggested that Botswana could translocate “excess” elephants to the region. The 2022 KAZA survey reported an elephant population growth of 80% between 2015 and 2022. However, a major qualifier is attached to this statistic: the count was likely substantially skewed by a few anomalously large herds counted near the Kwando River. The authors of the EWB analysis state outright that it is implausible that Angola’s elephant population has increased to such an extent.
This interpretation is supported by the previous 2015 census, which recorded fresh/recent carcass ratios of 10% – one of the highest such ratios ever recorded in savannah elephants and one highly likely to be associated with a declining population. Between 2015 and 2022, elephants have all but vanished from the western part of the Angolan region of KAZA, and the authors recorded a 98% decline in populations along the Cuito and Kavango Rivers.
Interpreted in combination, these signs all point towards an “elephant population in trouble”. Worryingly, the EWB analysis describes Angola as an attractive population sink for elephants, meaning that elephants may move into Angola from areas of high elephant density in Botswana and Namibia but then struggle against extrinsic factors such as high levels of poaching and even landmines left behind from the years of civil war. Over time, these population sinks have the potential to contribute to broader population declines.
Zimbabwe
The 2022 KAZA Elephant Survey and subsequent EWB analysis point to largely positive news regarding Zimbabwe’s elephant populations. Populations in northwest Matabeleland and Sebungwe have remained stable (and even increased). Similarly, Hwange National Park’s numbers have remained largely stable, though there has been some internal shifting within the park (which the authors suggest could be linked to new artificial waterholes). Moreover, all-carcass and fresh/recent-carcass ratios decreased to some degree, suggesting the possibility of reduced poaching pressure in Zimbabwe.
Namibia
The EWB analysis notes that elephant numbers generally decreased along Namibia’s border with Angola (while being stable along the Botswana border).
Zambia
Due to differences in counting techniques (see below), EWB was relatively limited in its ability to formally compare the current survey to those conducted previously in Zambia and thus was unable to determine trends accurately.
However, the 2022 survey reports a worrying decline in estimated elephant populations in the Kafue region from 6,688 in 2015 to 3,840 in 2022. Even with wide confidence margins, this population reduction is concerning, and EWB authors suggest that further surveys in the Kafue are warranted.
Elephants wading in Okavango Delta
The power (and limitations) of surveys of elephants
“The 228,000 elephants estimated to occur in KAZA seems large. However, determining the health of KAZA’s elephant population requires interpreting that number in light of how it has changed from earlier estimates.” In this respect, the EWB is somewhat critical of the report from the 2022 survey, which did not include any formal trend analysis. They emphasise that the primary goal of any census should not be the count itself but rather trends over time.
One of the primary challenges faced by EWB in compiling their analysis was that the modified methodology of the 2022 survey made comparisons with surveys of previous years more challenging. In particular, stratum boundaries were changed from preceding surveys, making it difficult to compare results and investigate trends. In some instances, EWB overcame these differences by reformulating previous data to match the new methodology as closely as possible. However, the strata for Zambia were so changed that any simple comparisons between years were impossible.
The authors suggest that even when a survey is conducted without the intention of detailed trend analysis, it should still be structured to facilitate the process. They conclude that the best way to do this is to keep the stratum boundaries consistent, or if change is necessary, such changes should be made “with a nod towards facilitating comparison.” It is unclear why the strata for the 2022 survey were altered.
Final thoughts on KAZA’s elephants
The Kavango-Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area is conservation on a grand scale – designed to promote resilient habitats and animal populations. Population overviews such as the one provided by the 2022 survey are undeniably important, especially for a species as impactful as elephants. It is deeply encouraging that the overall numbers of elephants are stable.
However, detailed analysis allows for detecting nascent threats before they have disastrous effects on a population. As the authors of the EWB report conclude, “managers need accurate and detailed information about how and where elephant populations are changing to effectively manage KAZA’s 227,900 elephants”.
Definitions
Carcass ratios: a technique used by ecologists to put mortalities into context and determine whether a population is likely to be growing, declining or stable.
All-carcass ratios: carcass estimates as a percentage of live elephant and carcass estimates. Previous ecological studies have shown that a ratio of over 8% is generally the cut-off for a stable population. If the ratio goes any higher, the mortality rate outstrips the birth rate, and the population begins to decline.
Fresh/recent carcass rations: carcasses deemed to be less than 12 months old as a percentage of live elephant and carcass estimates. This ratio can be used to detect emergent population challenges such as poaching surges and disease events.
Strata/stratum boundaries/stratification: when conducting an aerial survey, the region of interest is divided into strata (that is, it is stratified), and the sizes and shapes of these strata are determined by environmental conditions such as permanent water availability, vegetation type and landscape use. These, in turn, determine the spacing of the transects flown by the aerial counting team. So, for example, a section of riverine habitat surrounded by lush flood plains will likely support a higher density of animals and thus requires that the counting team flies narrow transects to estimate the number of animals present accurately. Conversely, pilots can fly much wider transects in a sparse area without drinking water and little vegetation because there are fewer animals to count, so the risk of underestimating populations is reduced.
A high-powered Botswana delegation has been attempting to convince UK and EU decision-makers not to give in to pressure to ban the import of hunting trophies.
In this televised interview, Botswana president Masisi, a highly intelligent man and superb orator, made various dubious claims to support the case for trophy hunting. His primary concern, he said, was safety – because elephants ‘maul and maraud people.’ Of course, human-elephant conflict is a very real problem in parts of Botswana BUT these are not the elephants being hunted. Trophy hunters are not interested in the perpetrators of human-elephant conflict; they are after the dwindling population of large-tusked lone bulls. To put it more plainly: trophy hunting has no impact on the issue that Masisi claims is the primary benefit of trophy hunting. It’s obvious in this interview that he views elephants as nothing more than political collateral. An inconvenient truth for Masisi is that during his reign there has been a significant increase in elephant poaching in Botswana. He has also lorded over the decimation by poachers of what was a growing wild rhino population. Rhinos were reintroduced to Botswana by the previous regime and their conservation partners – most of whom have been cold-shouldered by the Masisi regime.
Masisi also referred to the UK’s sovereign right to determine their own regulations as ‘a resurgence of colonial conquest’. Come again? To cap it off he lamented the peddling of ‘untruths’ by those opposed to trophy hunting. Oh the irony!
It’s a pity that the Sky News interviewer and subsequent talking heads did not understand the topic and so could not interrogate the obvious flaws in his claims and the gaping omissions.
Masisi does make some excellent points about the need for his people to be incentivised to conserve animals – it’s just a pity that he also trots out untruths and hypocritical generalisations. Any sustainable conservation strategy has to be transparently applied and be rooted in science and factual accuracy
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Did you know that, by 2070, Africa’s venomous snakes may have migrated to new territories, creating problems for people not used to dangerous encounters of the reptile kind?
Climate change is affecting the distribution of all animals on the planet, threatening delicate populations and causing some species to go extinct. New research that focused on 209 venomous snakes in Africa predicts that in the next half century, snakes will migrate to new environments that remain suitable when temperatures rise (by an average of 5ºC). The domino effect could cause the spread of diseases (due to the absence of snakes to control rodent populations), challenges to public health where antivenoms are scarce, and threats to livestock and livelihoods. What can be done? Investment into scientific research that tackles the problems facing the continent’s wildlife and people is essential.
Don’t miss our Week 3 Photographer of the Year gallery below, and our story on Kingsley Holgate’s journey of hope to Majete, Malawi.
Longing for an escape to warmer climes? To lounge beside the ocean? Here’s your chance to dive in and spend a holiday in paradise. Check out our options below, or let our experts plan your unique balmy safari.
On this 9-day safari of discovery you’ll explore the natural, cultural and historical wonders of the two magical islands of São Tomé and Príncipe. You’ll visit roças, experience the other-worldy coastline by boat, venture deep into rainforests and see unique flora and fauna, while spending time with local people to gain true insight into life in this island nation.
Discover Madagascar’s pristine and raw beauty. Experience powdery white beaches, palm trees, magical forests, lemurs and impossibly blue waters on this tropical-island escape. You’ll visit the rainforests and Blue Lagoon in Ambodilaitry Masoala Marine Reserve on the island’s northeast coast, and spend days kayaking on the lagoon, walking its shores and snorkelling its coves.
Photographer of the Year 2024
Have you submitted your entry for Photographer of the Year 2024? Curious about what all the excitement is about? Visit our website for all you need to know, from how and where to enter, to our competition rules and the epic prizes on offer – including a conservation safari and a lion research collar sponsored in your name. Don’t miss your chance to become the next Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year!
WATCH: Liuwa Plain National Park in Zambia is home to precious Ramsar site wetlands, new lion prides & remote wilderness to get lost in. It also plays host to Africa’s second-largest wildebeest migration. With seemingly boundless horizons, the open landscape is not unlike that of some of East Africa’s most renowned safari destinations – minus the crowds. (04:23) Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
We can’t believe our eyes: park manager John Adendorff, some 40 smartly turned-out members of the ranger corps and other staff are gathered under the giant ‘Welcome to Majete Wildlife Reserve’ sign, waiting for our arrival at this remarkable wildlife sanctuary. It’s a magnificent surprise as they form a guard of honour and then, in perfect unison, escort the expedition Defenders in a boot-thumping, chanting formation to the Park’s parade ground and its Ranger Memorial. What an honour for our Afrika Odyssey team.
John grins from ear to ear. “They’re the best,” he says as the corps performs a complicated, close-order parade ground drill to the staccato commands shouted by their imposing, red-sashed sergeant major. They’re preparing for a significant event – Majete’s 20th anniversary celebration.
Majete’s rangers form a guard of honour for the Afrika Odyssey expedition team
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
Nestled in the low-lying Shire River valley in southern Malawi and encircled by rugged highlands, Majete is a remarkable tale of a once-declining reserve revitalised into a sanctuary for wildlife. In 2003, it was the first park to come under African Parks management when a historic 25-year agreement with the Malawi government was signed. So began an extraordinary story of hope and restoration, and over the next few days, we find out just how much there is to celebrate. It’s precisely why we’ve dedicated much of our lives to this rather unusual conservation, community and culture-themed journey of purpose.
“Let’s go to where it all began,” suggests John, but I go down with malaria; and have to stay behind to sweat it out at the game capture campsite. The rest of the gang pile onto the back of John’s bakkie and take a wandering track through the reserve, passing towering granite hills, open savannahs and beautiful miombo woodlands dotted with ilala palms, silvery-barked African star-chestnut trees and the occasional baobab, some of which must be over a thousand years old. The park is served by two main rivers: the gentle Mkulumadzi and the mighty Shire, which converge here in Majete before joining the Zambezi to reach the Indian Ocean.
We drive down a steep rocky bank marked by a massive African mahogany tree, one of the biggest we’ve ever seen, to reach the Phwadzi Springs. Held in place by a strangler fig, we find the old, twisted metal ladder leading to a viewing platform once used by George Dudley Hayes – GD for short – a pioneering conservationist who often camped here and played a critical role in Majete being proclaimed a game reserve in 1955. In those days, the area teamed with wildlife, and Hayes recorded in his diary seeing a host of animals at these springs, including sable, eland, zebra, duiker, buffalo, lion, hyena and leopard. In 1956, he casually noted a pack of wild dogs playing around. It was the last known record of the species in Majete.
Majete is one of Malawi’s most popular Big 5 reserves, offering a good chance of spotting leopards
Here, in this historic place, John adds water to the Zulu calabash and from the eye of the spring, his daughter Josie and Dutch visitors Jules, Matisse and Steven select water-smoothed round pebbles – another of this expedition’s traditions. We’re collecting symbolic pebbles from each of the 22 African Parks-managed areas we visit. We will use them to build a legacy ‘Isivivane’ (stone cairn) at AP’s head office HQ in Johannesburg at the end of this Afrika Odyssey journey in a few months.
Park manager John Adendorff fills up the expedition calabash with water from the Phwadzi Springs; Kingsley helps African Parks staff with the provision of eye tests and reading classes in the Majete community
Driving back to camp, John shares more about the history of Majete. The subsequent decline of the reserve in the ‘70s and ’80s must have been heart-wrenching for GD Hayes as charcoal burning, logging, and poaching ravaged the wildlife. The last rhino was seen in the ‘80s, large carnivores disappeared in the ‘90s, and the park’s sole surviving elephant was killed in 1992. By 2002, only a handful of antelope remained, the park’s infrastructure consisted of just one broken building, the roads were wrecked, and not a single tourist had visited the park in three years.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? You can plan and book your African Parks safari to Majete Wildlife Reserve and other parks by clicking here.
In 2003, African Parks took over the management and the rest, as they say, is history. Since then, more than 5,000 animals from 17 species have been reintroduced, including black rhino, elephant, lion, giraffe and cheetah.
Lions have been reintroduced into the reserve and are now thriving
“And isn’t it fantastic that in 2021, we were able to introduce six wild dogs after a 60-year absence, and they’ve just had their second litter of pups – the pack now numbers 24!” says John. “I can just imagine the grin on GD Hayes’ face as he sat up on his tree platform all those years ago.”
Wild dogs introduced into the reserve are doing well
Its recovery has been so successful that Majete has been able to help restore other parks in Malawi, including 150 elephants, as part of the historic 500 Elephants translocation to Nkhotakota in 2017. But that’s only one part of this incredible story. Around the fire at night, John tells us that hundreds of jobs have been created, the park has not lost a single rhino or elephant to poaching, and the surrounding communities have become enthusiastic supporters as they see their livelihoods, health, and education improve, thanks to Majete’s existence.
The Majete team offer a grand welcome to the Afrika Odyssey expedition
John’s boundless energy, engaging leadership approach and immense pride in the Majete team are obvious. “We follow the ‘broken window’ policy here: if it’s broke, don’t leave it – fix it!” he tells us. John’s a veritable goldmine of information and never-ending stories; he spent 28 years at Addo Elephant National Park in South Africa’s Eastern Cape, rising through the ranks to leave an indelible legacy before moving to Majete – our ribs ache from laughter at some of his more risqué anecdotes.
Community extension manager Dixie Makwale signs the Scroll
Community extension manager Dixie Makwale, who has a smile as wide as the Shire River, invites us to join their monthly Umuganda community clean-up day. Everyone pitches in – John, the head office team, rangers, wildlife monitors, tourism staff, visiting volunteers, workshop mechanics and handypersons. It takes place at the Kakoma health centre. It includes a ‘chicken parade’ of litter collection, malaria education for pregnant women and moms with infants, eye tests and reading glasses for the poor-sighted, and a Wildlife Art competition.
Gathering for the Umuganda community clean-up dayHelping to prevent malaria amongst women and children at the Majete-supported Kakoma Clinic
Then, the highlight is a frenetic, crazy-costumed cultural event by the ritualistic Gule Wamkulu dancers, who we’re told are favourites of this region’s Chewa and Manganga people. Dixie also tells us that 50 wildlife clubs have been established, and 2,500 children visited the reserve last year to learn about wildlife conservation first-hand.
He invites us to spend a story-telling evening around the campfire with a group of kids spending a few educational days at the park’s youth camp; we’re astonished at their insightful understanding of environmental issues and the need to protect Africa’s wild areas.
Majete has come a long way in the last 20 years, from a sink to a source of value that now provides hundreds of jobs and supports thousands of community members. At last light one evening, we stand on a granite hill viewpoint with 360° views stretching as far as the eye can see – it’s time to say goodbye to the miracle of Majete. This was Dr Anthony Hall-Martin’s favourite place – it was thanks to his far-seeing grit and determination that this thriving park became the cornerstone of the African Parks story.
Traditional Gule Wamkulu dancers at Majete’s Umuganda community day
On a brass plaque attached to a stone plinth is a tribute to his vision and leadership and a poem he used to recite:
“Make no little plans,
They have no magic to stir men’s blood,
And probably, they will not be realised.
Make big plans deep into the future,
Aim high in hope and work.
Have faith, remembering that a noble plan, once recorded, will never die.
But we will still be a living thing long after we are gone.”
How apt is the last line as his legacy lives on, not just here at Majete but in 21 other wildlife areas in 12 countries across this beautiful continent?
Our visits to Malawi’s three African Parks-managed conservation areas of Nkhotakota (the old forest reserve that’s been reborn and restocked with 500 elephants and more), Liwonde & Mangochi (a picture-postcard park that’s been wholly revitalised) and now Majete (African Parks’ very first project now celebrating 20 years of operation – a complete miracle of conservation that’s become Malawi’s most visited Big five reserve), have all been wonderful, eye-opening experiences for the Afrika Odyssey expedition team. We’re truly delighted that this small country of Malawi has provided us with such valuable stories of hope for Africa’s wildlife and wild spaces.
Zikomo Kwambiri, and congratulations to everyone.
Resources
Malawi’s Majete Wildlife Reserve is a booming Big 5 destination. Be drawn by epic scenery, cheetahs & wild dogs, & the mighty Shire River. Read more about Majete here.
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Tusker hunt photos emerge + more
About 20 years ago a bunch of adventurous lads rubber-ducked the mighty Zambezi River from source to mouth to raise funds for anti-malaria campaigns in the region. It was an epic adventure that delivered many life-lessons.
The annual floods had arrived in Western Zambia and we came across many temporarily abandoned villages – and found ourselves drifting between the elevated wooden-platform homes. The Lozi people move to higher ground to the east during the floods, marking the occasion with the famous Kuomboka festival. One night we found a tiny island that seemed perfect for camping. Unbeknown to us, the entire ant population of Barotseland was sheltering on this rare patch of elevated land. These angry warriors ate the bottom of one of our tents and persuaded us to spend the night huddled around our meagre fire slapping our legs or sleeping in the floating rubber ducks! We also learned how to avoid becoming flat dog (crocodile) food while taking a communal bucket-shower on the banks of the Zambezi – but that’s another story.
My last visit to the birth floodplains of the Zambezi River was late last year. Liuwa Plain National Park in Zambia is one of Africa’s rising wildlife destinations, rivaling even the famous South Luangwa National Park in its appeal. Among other things, Liuwa hosts the second largest wildebeest migration – it’s like a mini Serengeti. Have a look here and start planning your next safari. 100% of revenue received by African Parks from your Liuwa safari goes to wildlife conservation and community empowerment.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Falcons are incredibly fast and skilled hunters. But did you know that there is one falcon that has taken its hunting abilities to the next level?
The Eleonora’s falcon, which breeds off the coast of Morocco and winters in Madagascar, has come up with a unique way of keeping its meals fresh – by catching small live birds and trapping them inside rocky prisons. Ornithologists observing one population of the birds on the Mogador archipelago reported that the falcons caught little birds, stripped them of their flight feathers and shoved them into deep holes in the rocks. Cunning!
In an update to our recent story on three elephants trophy hunted in Enduimet, Tanzania, we are now able to publish the photos from the first hunt of super tusker, Gilgil – see our story below. Photographer of the Year 2024 is warming up rapidly, and this week’s epic photos are hot, hot, hot… Check them out in the gallery below. And read our fascinating story about how a wobbly earth and once-green Sahara led to the spread of humans.
Enjoy this iconic bush and beach safari – the best that South Africa offers. Greater Kruger’s exceptional Big 5 game viewing will sweep you off your feet. This safari also includes a full-day road trip to the stunning scenery and cultural delights of the Lowveld. Then, head on to vibey Cape Town, her beaches, and the nearby Winelands.
Be captivated by the rawness of the Greater Kruger wilderness. This one-of-a-kind mobile-camping safari is for adventurous travellers. Walk the bushveld with a guide and trackers while the ground team moves your tented camp to a new location every night. This soul-food safari will reconnect you with nature and recharge your batteries.
WATCH: A wonderful sighting of a baby zebra taking its very first steps after just after being born in Thornybush Game Reserve, Greater Kruger, South Africa. (01:00) Click here to watch
It’s an interesting tale, and it takes place in the hot, arid Sahara Desert in Africa. Actually, it takes place in the warm, wet and green Sahara. The Sahara Desert was not always the hyper-arid, dune-swept region it is now. It has been lush-green, damp and full of rivers in the past (about 230 times in the last 8 million years, every 21,000 years or so, to be more precise). During these green periods, vegetated corridors created distribution channels for various species – including humans. So, how did the Sahara change so much? What led to the climatic variations that changed the desert into a savannah?
It all comes down to the Earth’s dance in the Milky Way: the past changes occurring in the Sahara are linked to cyclic variations in the Earth’s orbit. To understand this, one needs to know how our Earth moves. We all know that the Earth rotates every 24 hours (causing day and night) and that it undergoes a 365-day revolution around the sun (causing seasons), but did you know that every 100,000 years, the shape of Earth’s orbit shifts between circular and oval (a phenomenon known as eccentricity)? And that every 41,000 years the tilt of Earth’s axis changes (termed obliquity) between 22.1 and 24.5 degrees? These changes in the eccentricity and obliquity cycles are responsible for driving the ice ages of the past 2.4 million years. Furthermore, the Earth is not a perfect sphere; it bulges at the Equator and is influenced by the sun’s gravity, moon, and planets. Just like a spinning top, it sometimes wobbles during its rotation. This is called ‘precession’ and is defined as the slow change in the direction of Earth’s rotational axis, and it varies on a 21,000-year timescale. There are no prizes for guessing then that the 21,000-year precession cycle is linked to the 21,000-year timing of the wet, green Sahara periods.
How does a wobbly Earth make a desert go green?
Firstly, one needs to understand what climate systems influence North Africa. The region’s climate is governed by three different systems: the northern (Mediterranean and northernmost Atlantic) coastal belt of westerly rains that fall mainly during the late autumn to early spring, and the West and East African monsoons (WAM and EAM) which bring summer rains to the subtropical regions located west and east of the River Nile. When the Earth wobbles on its axis (precession) at different times during the cycle, the seasons will become more or less extreme in the northern or southern hemisphere. When the precession causes the Northern Hemisphere to be closer to the sun during the summer months, there is an increase in North African summer rainfall. This happens because of an increase in the amount of solar radiation in the tropics, which is the engine that fuels the monsoon system. This then results in the enhancement of East African Monsoon summer rainfall over the southern part of the Nile catchment and the Ethiopian highlands and also causes the intensification and enhanced northward penetration of the West African Monsoon summer rains over the present-day Sahara. During these times, the increased rainfall and solar radiation resulted in the greening of the Sahara, with swathes of savannah vegetation and abundant lakes and rivers. These are the so-called Green Sahara Periods (GSPs) or the (more prosaic) term “North African humid periods” (NAHPs).
However, the humid periods sometimes do not occur (they skip a beat). Using climate change modelling, Armstrong et al. (2023) found that these periods occurred during the ice ages when sizeable glacial ice sheets covered much of the polar regions. These vast ice sheets cooled the Earth’s atmosphere, offset precession’s warming influence and suppressed the expansion of the African monsoon system.
In summary: the Earth wobbles, temperatures go up in some places and down in others, the monsoon engine is revved up, and more rain falls in the Sahara, except for during the Ice Ages, which are driven by the eccentricity cycle (how circular Earth’s orbit is around the sun). During these times, the vast surface area of ice sheets causes cooling, which offsets the warming. This is one of the most exciting findings of Armstrong et al. (2023); it shows us how connected everything is. The desert is linked to the ice, and the vegetation is linked to the movement of the Earth.
How did we first learn about these wet periods in the Sahara?
Studies on pollen analysis and marine and lake sediments in the Sahara have shown us that there was far more vegetation during these periods than there is now. But we also know about these GSPs through the details of the rock art in the area. The humans living during those greening periods told the story of antelopes, crocodiles, hippos, and giraffes through the language of art. The details of the rock art in the World Heritage Site, Tassili n’Ajjer, located in south-east Algeria at the borders of Libya, Niger and Mali, contain some of the “most eloquent expression of relationships between humans and the environment, with more than 15,000 drawings and engravings testifying to climate changes, wildlife migrations, and the evolution of humankind on the edge of the Sahara. This art depicts water-dependent species like the hippopotamus, which have been extinct in the region for thousands of years.”
The Sahara Desert today
So how did the greening of the Sahara change humankind’s journey?
We need to keep the bigger picture in mind. The Sahara Desert takes up 9 million km2, one-third of the African continent, and when dry, represents a significant barrier to the dispersal of species, including ancient hominid races. The theory is that these GSPs led to vegetated corridors, which then allowed changes in species’ distribution and evolution and may have facilitated the out-of-Africa migrations of ancient humans. These fertile phases presumably resulted in a significant expansion of human populations, which may, in turn, have increased the number of favourable genetic mutations which underpinned the speciation of hominin lineages.
Combined with the environmental variability associated with GSPs coming and going, the humans probably arrived and left, which might have had an additional impact on human population dynamics as it might have split African and Asian populations. When GSPs ended, human groups were likely forced to retreat to already densely populated areas or to survive in regions with still water. There is a significant association between the currently known first and last appearance datums of the major hominin lineages, suites of technological behaviours, and dispersal events with the predicted intervals of prolonged high climate variability associated with precession cycles.
Therefore, a wobbly Earth led to periods of increased climate variability, prompting human adaptability and flexibility and leading to evolutionary change in the hominids. So, if you are feeling a little off-colour today, just cast your mind back millions of years and think about how much of our history is based on a wobble. We need the wobblies to keep us on our toes.
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
Leopards have been particularly active in our neighbourhood recently. One gent living in our street literally bumped into one in his garden a few nights ago – it was chasing his dog, which had ventured into the dark to take a leak. Leopard and human got a helluva fright and scarpered in opposite directions – a lucky break for the dog!
This got me thinking about humankind’s relationships with wild animals. Of course, we define everything according to our ever-increasing needs and sense of self-importance (ego vs eco), but here and there, we also benefit opportunistic species. The local leopards certainly seem to enjoy supplementing their diets with tasty canine snacks, and mongooses, bush babies and vervet monkeys clearly benefit from our kindness and waste. Another example is the stable yard in our wildlife estate – a haven for dung beetles and the creatures that feast on them. Purists may roll their eyes, but I enjoy life in this buffer zone between the Greater Kruger bushveld to the east and farmlands to the west.
Thanks for all the emails and social media support about the ongoing situation regarding trophy hunters picking off the remaining super tuskers. We are proud to have helped spark a growing campaign to stop this morally bankrupt, unsustainable plunder of Africa’s wild spaces. We are monitoring a few trophy hunting forums and have noticed some hunters challenging the bad apples, which is good to see. This is a developing situation – expect more news in the coming months.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Imagine you are wandering the desert, with not a drop of water in sight. A juicy melon appears – like manna from heaven. But it’s not quite ripe yet… How to deter thieves from pinching your melon while you wait for it to reach optimum sweetness?
Black-backed jackals have solved this conundrum – by urinating on the near-ripe melons.
Scientists have discovered that jackals in the Namib Desert urinate on the Nara melons to deter other animals from eating them, allowing them to ripen to their own taste. They made the discovery while studying the role jackals play in distributing the seeds of the nara plant (which they do very well through their faeces). Jackals can suss out which melons are ripe, or are about to ripen, with one quick sniff.
This week, we have, after much anticipation, published the first Photographer of the Year gallery for 2024, and our first entries do not disappoint! Check out the gallery below. We’ve also put together the ultimate guide to Mapungubwe National Park – not to be missed.
This bumper safari is about water – or the lack thereof. This adventure will take you from the majestic Victoria Falls to the watery wilderness of the Okavango Delta, and from the predator-rich northern Botswana floodplains to the remote Central Kalahari and desolate salt pans. 11 days of safari splendour.
This safari offers a jam-packed three days of nonstop action in Africa’s adventure capital – ideal for a short break or as an add-on to another safari. Either way, Victoria Falls, one of the world’s Seven Wonders, is a destination well worth ticking off your bucket list. Experience the magic of “the smoke that thunders” – whether getting drenched while admiring the view or participating in the many activities on offer here, from white-water rafting, to gorge swinging, helicopter flights, boat cruises, game drives, canoeing and more.
‘Conservation Kraal Challenge’ to mitigate farmer-predator conflict
The Cape Leopard Trust is challenging the public to put their creativity and engineering know-how to the test to help make a difference for leopard conservation. The Trust is hosting a national competition to find designs for an affordable, safe, durable, portable and predator-proof kraal (a protective enclosure) to secure livestock. Read more about this unique challenge on our forum so that you can help conserve wildlife and help find a practical solution for farmers suffering stock losses.
WATCH: Nyungwe National Park hosts Africa’s most extensive protected tract of montane forest. This verdant oasis is a biodiversity hotspot bursting with life. Nyungwe covers 1,019km2 of forested mountains, burbling streams, sun-starved valleys, and extensive swamps seemingly hiding a myriad of new species waiting to be discovered (or rediscovered). Learn more about Nyungwe in this video. (07:42) Click here to watch
There is an undercurrent of mysticism that pervades the arid savannahs of Mapungubwe National Park. Here, as the wind whistles past sandstone ridges and boulder-strewn kopjes, it seems to carry echoes of the park’s vibrant history. Gnarled baobabs stand sentinel around every corner, squat and silent witnesses to the changing fortunes of the region’s human and animal inhabitants.
Mapungubwe is one of South Africa’s most evocative protected spaces, beckoning to intrepid travellers and promising a journey of discovery.
Mapungubwe National Park
Situated in the northernmost reaches of South Africa against the border of Botswana and Zimbabwe, the relatively tiny 28,000-hectare Mapungubwe National Park safeguards a precious chunk of the country’s heritage. From the lush riverine forests and magnificent trees to the expansive savannahs and rugged sandstone formations, the park’s scenic beauty cannot be overstated. Its northern boundary is marked by the iconic Limpopo River, where visitors can stare out over its confluence with the Shashe River and marvel at the massive herds of elephants crossing between countries without care for international borders.
The “great grey-green, greasy Limpopo River”
To the north, across Kipling’s “great grey-green, greasy Limpopo River” on the Botswana side, lies the Northern Tuli Game Reserve, which, in turn, is contiguous with Zimbabwe’s Tuli Circle Safari Area. The Venetia Limpopo Nature Reserve lies south of Mapungubwe, with Vhembe Game Reserve to the west and Mapesu Private Game Reserve to the southeast. These protected landscapes and several private properties in all three countries will form the cornerstone of the Greater Mapungubwe Transfrontier Conservation Area (GMTCA). The GMTCA is still under development, but when it reaches its full envisioned potential, it will conserve nearly 5,000 km2 (500,000 hectares) of unique and vital southern African wilderness.
The creation of the GMTCA should help to ensure that the conservation of Mapungubwe’s extravaganza of natural beauty and legendary wildlife will remain a priority. However, for most visitors, the park’s human history takes centre stage, as this remarkable sanctuary was once home to the oldest known kingdom in southern Africa. The Kingdom of Mapungubwe – its capital perched atop the golden ridges of Mapungubwe Hill – flourished just under a thousand years ago. Today, its remnants lie scattered across the landscape, offering tantalising clues into the lives of its occupants during a time of power and prestige.
Elephants cross the dry riverbeds at the confluence of the Limpopo and Shashe Rivers
Golden rhinos, lucrative trade, and lofty rulers
Though Mapungubwe, and the Mapungubwe Hill in particular, had long held a vital cultural significance to the area’s local people, its archaeological importance came to light in the 1930s when an excavation uncovered a treasure trove of artefacts. Over time, the findings revealed the rise and fall of a complex Iron Age society (some 5,000 people at the civilisation’s height) that occupied the region from around circa AD 900-1300. It soon became clear that the Kingdom of Mapungubwe had been a hub of trade and cultural exchange, with links to the Middle East, India and China via East African ports.
Among the most famous discoveries were gold and ivory objects, including an exquisite golden rhinoceros, which has become a symbol of the park and its history. This palm-sized artefact was delicately crafted (right down to the minute details of its ears, horn, and tail) from wood and covered in thin sheets of gold – a testament to the skill and artistry of its creator. Other finds included delicate ceramics, glass beads, and terracotta figurines.
The Mapungubwe Interpretation Centre
Exactly why the civilisation collapsed is a matter for some debate, with several theories ranging from changing climates to shifting trade routes posited. Whatever the reason, by the 14th century, the people of the Kingdom of Mapungubwe had moved on. Historians believe that the three best-known stone-walled kingdoms of southern Africa – Mapungubwe, Great Zimbabwe and Thulamela – were all connected, with people migrating first from Mapungubwe to Great Zimbabwe and then on to Thulamela over the centuries.
Today, the Mapungubwe Cultural Landscape is a Unesco World Heritage Site. Visitors to Mapungubwe can learn more about this fascinating period of South African history at the park’s Interpretation Centre. The centre’s unique architecture is a marvel in itself, while the museum displays inside include some of the original artefacts (and some replicas) and a wealth of information. A guided heritage walk to the top of Mapungubwe Hill, where the kingdom’s rulers once dwelled in a walled fortress, looking down on the “commoners” in the valleys below, is another must.
A lush baobab in leaf
Everything the light touches…
From the top of Mapungubwe Hill, looking down on a landscape painted in shades of ochre, green and gold, it is easy to imagine how the rulers of old must have felt about their precious realm. The kingdom’s people may be long gone, but the wildlife they shared their space with remains, much to the joy of eager safari-goers.
Sipping at the water’s edge
Though cultural curiosities typically eclipse wildlife viewing in this small national park, that is not to say that Mapungubwe is not an impressive safari destination in its own right. This is especially true as it lies between the arid habitats to the west and the moist Lowveld savannahs to the east, allowing for incredible variety and biodiversity. Elephants are everywhere in Mapungubwe, and every corner seems to reveal another special sighting, from breeding herds and young calves playing in the mud to placid old bulls napping in the shade of a baobab or nyala tree. The plains and mopane woodlands support a variety of antelope species, including massive eland, stately oryx, delicate impala and shy steenbok. Above them on the kopjes, nimble klipspringers leap from boulder to boulder, their hooves beautifully designed for life on the rocks.
Sandstone cliffs form striking backdrops throughout the park
Lucky visitors may even be fortunate enough to glimpse one of the park’s white rhinos or a leopard lounging in the forest. The park is also occasionally home to one of South Africa’s only free-ranging lion populations, who come and go from the park at will. Similarly, packs of African wild dogs (painted wolves) make rare but exhilarating appearances from time to time. And, of course, every wildlife encounter is made all the more special by the spectacular backdrop against which it unfolds, especially as the dry season sets in and animals are drawn to the banks of the Limpopo.
A young male takes respite from the heat of the day. Lions are occasionally spotted in the park
The skies above Mapungubwe are adorned with over 400 bird species, from vibrant bee-eaters to majestic raptors, creating a kaleidoscope of colours that dance in the African sunlight. The crags of the sandstone cliffs have attracted nesting pairs of majestic Verreaux’s eagles, while the dense foliage around the river offers the perfect habitat for Pel’s fishing owls. One of the best ways to experience bird life in the park is to set out across the wooden platforms of the treetop walkway. (It is important to note that though the Limpopo is never really grey-green or greasy, it can be significant and has been known to wash parts of the walkway occasionally – so check beforehand if the canopy is open).
The treetop walkway
Explore & stay in Mapungubwe
Mapungubwe National Park is both a premier national park and a time capsule, preserving South Africa’s timeless heritage for generations to come. It is a destination that offers the chance to delve into the annals of history, connect with the natural world, and gain a deeper appreciation for the continent’s diverse cultural tapestry. Though the park is small and could arguably be explored in a day, there is no question that a few days are needed to do it (and its story) justice.
There are a couple of camps, ranging from basic safari tent accommodation to relatively luxurious chalets, all of which are ideally positioned to take in some of the park’s diverse landscapes. There is also a well-maintained campsite for those looking for a fully immersive experience and more self-sufficient experience. Guided drives are offered, but visitors can self-drive around the park, though some routes are only accessible with a 4X4. Due to its more recent and controversial 20th-century history, the Mapungubwe is divided into eastern and western portions by a section of private property inaccessible to park guests. One has to exit the park to move between the two, but the drive is short and scenic.
The swimming pool at Mapungubwe’s main camp, Leokwe, often attracts thirsty elephants
Mapungubwe is situated in an arid and warm part of South Africa, and summer temperatures from October to April regularly top the mercury at over 45˚C. Most people prefer to visit during the dry winter from May until September, when the daytime temperatures are cooler, and wildlife viewing is most spectacular. However, those that tolerate heat well would be rewarded on a summer visit when the migratory birds arrive, and the rains have washed away the dust haze, accentuating the summer greens and spectacular scenery.
Resources
Botswana’s Tuli Block, also part of the Greater Mapungubwe Transfrontier Conservation Area, is a place where the wind carries stories of the past, whispering over rocks, around baobabs and across the vast wilderness. Read more about Tuli here.
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
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10 tuskers left in Amboseli? + Picture-perfect Liwonde
Our best photography prize ever? Entries are open for Photographer of the Year – our annual celebration of Africa’s awesomeness. And this year we tweaked things to grant our three winners the status of legitimate conservation heroes. They get to each sponsor a lion research collar (paid for by teamAG) and so play a practical role in the conservation of Africa’s free-roaming lions – a wonderful tribute to their photographic prowess! And they and their partners will join me on safari in Hwange, Zimbabwe to learn about lion conservation. Amongst other thoroughly fascinating experiences we will spend time with researchers and local rural people at the coalface of lion conservation.
AI-generated images are now a dime a dozen on social media – attracting adoring comments about the wonder of nature (rolls his eyes). Chubby-cheeked cherubs hugging quaffed lions compete for our attention with seriously accurate (but fake) renditions of wild animals. Our mission is to reflect the REAL AFRICA – warts and all. And that is why we will NOT permit AI-generated images in Photographer of the Year. They are not photographs – it’s as simple as that. Using artificial intelligence in your post-production work on photographs is permitted if the result faithfully represents the original scene (AI is already integrated into most post-production software). See our competition rules here. Search your archives and enter now – and perhaps join me in Hwange to make a real difference at ground zero!
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Will the Garden Route’s lone female elephant soon have a herd? She goes by many names – including Ou Poot, Strange Foot, and Matriarch – but to most she is known as THE Knysna Elephant. The single female elephant has existed as a ghost in Knysna’s forests and fynbos, South Africa, for many years, and is the only female elephant in the world known to exist in the wild completely by herself.
Camera trap and ecological studies have helped us learn more about her (see more in the video below). Worryingly, her stress levels are abnormally high – likely as she’s under chronic stress from being alone, and becomes more strained when sensing humans are near. But recent studies conducted by SANParks support the re-introduction of more elephants to the area. Watch this space!
Now to East Africa’s elephants, where the integrity of Amboseli’s elephant population is in jeopardy, and the super tusker population is down to about 10. Read about the hunting of A THIRD elephant in Enduimet, and what YOU can do about this, below. In further developments, Amboseli Trust for Elephants has positively identified the first hunted bull as Gilgil, a breeding elephant aged 35, who would have just been entering his prime reproductive years. Our sources confirm that Gilgil was a 100-pounder. See more in our story…
Lastly, don’t miss our story on Kingsley Holgate’s expedition to picture-perfect Liwonde.
Experience Congo-Brazzaville’s Odzala-Kokoua National Park, one of Africa’s oldest parks and the ideal destination for your bucket-list gorilla-trekking safari. Luxurious camps, dense rainforests, peaceful river activities and habituated western lowland gorillas await. In this 9-day safari, you’ll also search for forest elephants, bongos, dwarf crocodiles, vast flocks of grey parrots and green pigeons – and much more.
This Rwandan gorilla-trekking adventure will take you through pristine afro-montane forests packed with golden monkeys, colourful Rwenzori turacos and prehistoric three-horned chameleons. And, of course, the star of your safari is a silverback mountain gorilla, accompanied by his family – spotted in the depths of paradise.
Do you have a friend who wants to go on an African safari? Refer them to Africa Geographic, and you’ll help protect lion populations in Africa.
Here’s how:
If a person you refer to AG books a safari with us, both of you will be added to an AG lion COALITION, and AG will donate $250 towards the satellite collaring of a lion.
Each satellite collar costs $2,500 – this means that once the COALITION reaches ten referrals – raising enough to purchase a collar – we finalise that COALITION and start building the next one.
Once that COALITION’s lion has been identified and collared, each COALITION member (including you) receives general updates from the research team about the lion – secure in the knowledge that they have made a decisive contribution to the ongoing survival of Africa’s free-roaming wild lions.
WATCH: Learn more about the local extinction of Knysna’s elephants, the last elephant in the Knysna Forest, and the work being done to save her. (07:14) Click here to watch
It’s Day 85 of this Afrika Odyssey expedition. We’re now feeling the pace, as we hug the shores of Lake Malawi to reach Liwonde National Park, the seventh park of the southern Africa chapter of our trip. Jack Johnson’s moody Times like these plays over the Defender sound system – so much memory-lane stuff swirling around in our heads. Today, Lake Malawi is as calm as a millpond, but it isn’t always so.
Ross’s voice comes over the radio: “Remember when we were hit by that storm going across the lake?” He’s referring to our dangerous 14-hour crossing of Lake Malawi during a previous expedition to track the entire length of the Great African Rift Valley. It had been a nightmare of bailing and throwing up, as the captain of the hopelessly overloaded wooden dhow (he’d taken on too many passengers, some of them mums with tiny babies – very reckless) struggled with only a small outboard to keep the boat’s prow into the wind, as massive waves threatened to capsize us. An argument had broken out – some of the passengers wanted to turn back. “Masadandaule – be calm, don’t complain!” the captain had urged. He knew that if we turned, the boat could broach and that would be the end.
“Never ever!” had shouted Shova Mike, our expedition mountain biking veteran, as we jumped ashore in the dark and staggered onto a baobab-ringed beach on Likoma Island. Pulling on an imaginary cigar and putting on a posh accent, he’d intoned, “Never ever, in the history of this vast inland sea, have so many seasick passengers been pushed by so few horsepower, across such dangerous waters!”
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
That journey had taken us all the way down Lake Malawi and Lake Malombe to the Shire River, Liwonde National Park’s lifeline, and beyond. Now, ten years on, we’re back and Liwonde is even better. The birdlife is unbelievable, and buffalo, sable antelope and dusty elephant herds come down to the river to drink. Pods of hippos everywhere, waterbuck galore and fantastic lion sightings.
A lion spotted in Liwonde
It’s great to reconnect with park manager Dave Robertson and his wife Erica, who we know from their days in Zululand. Together with their Liwonde team, we gather for welcome sundowners on the banks of the Shire, which, thanks to Cyclone Freddy’s double deluge, has become a lake.
Park manager Dave Robertson with the expedition calabash
It’s time again for the calabash ceremony, and Dave wades into shallows. We couldn’t have asked for a more magnificent scene; the sun setting behind tall Borassus palms, a fat full moon rising over the Chinguni Hills, hippos grunting and a small herd of elephants swimming across the river. It proves to be one of the most iconic images of the expedition thus far.
Dave Robertson and the Liwonde anti-poaching unit
It is a picture-perfect postcard of a park, and once again, we’re reminded that thanks to African Parks and the Malawi government, Liwonde has been pulled back from the brink of destruction to become the Big 5 success it now is. Over the past seven years, cheetah, lion and wild dog have been reintroduced, along with critically endangered black rhino in one of the largest international translocations in history. Fish stocks in the park’s 30km stretch of the Shire River are increasing rapidly and, with the return of predators, vultures have made a welcome comeback. Liwonde has now become the source for major wildlife relocations. Not only for some of the 500 elephants that went to Nkhotakota, but numerous other species have also been moved to other Malawian parks from Nkhotakota.
Cheetah have been successfully reintroduced into the park
It’s always great to get stories from the people on the ground. High-spirited field guide Nelson Chikwewa tells us that, when he was a boy, the elephants were always breaking out, there was terrible human-wildlife conflict, poachers were doing as they pleased (even coming in from Mozambique with guns), and elephant poaching was rampant. With Nelson at the wheel, we meander through large glades of tall cathedral mopanes and gnarled, grey baobabs. We pass an armed ranger on a motorbike. “Since African Parks took over in August 2015, there’s been proper law enforcement. Mr Lawrence, our field operations manager, and his team are doing an excellent job,” says Nelson with a big grin. “Over 50,000 snares have been removed, and they have controlled the poaching. We must be one of the best parks in Africa now!”
Elephants grazing in the Shire River
We smile knowingly. Lawrence Munro is an old friend. He and I worked together for years fighting rhino poaching and jointly started the Zululand Anti-Poaching Airwing. He’s still greatly admired in Zululand; undoubtedly, African Parks attracts the best people.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? You can plan and book your African Parks safari to Liwonde National Park and other parks by clicking here.
As Lawrence is on leave, we feel a practical joke is in order – expeditions are fuelled by good humour. He’s known as a stickler for military-style neatness, with everything precisely in its place. So, with Dave and Erica as willing co-conspirators, we shoot a video clip of Sheelagh, unrecognisable in a ranger’s gilly suit, apple-pieing Lawrence’s immaculate office! We all get the giggles imagining Lawrence’s horrified expression when he sees the video of some camouflaged stranger sitting at his messed-up desk. (A couple of weeks later, Sheelagh gets a two-word WhatsApp: ‘You Rat!’)
The Liwonde team pose on the banks of the Shire River
Over a million people live around Liwonde and, as with the other African Parks-managed wildlife reserves we’ve visited, the dedication to their neighbours is inspiring. With community manager Matias Elisa at the helm, we first visit the park’s environmental education centre for conservation work with kids. The park has established 94 wildlife clubs and literacy programmes in the surrounding schools, and children are regularly transported in the Liwonde game-viewing bus to spend fun-filled educational days at kids’ camps, as well as game drives with Liwonde guides. There’s a hugely popular Chipembere (rhino) Football League, a ‘Goat Pass On’ project that provides extra protein to families, monthly Umuganda community clean-up days, and busy irrigation schemes that grow acres of vegetables. Thousands of wood-efficient stoves have been distributed to reduce wood and charcoal consumption. The Spicy Farmers chilli growing project has also been a major success, resulting in a big drop in elephant breakouts.
Liwonde environmental education officer Susan Chimbaza writes her message in the Scroll; Liwonde ranger guide Nelson Chikwewa loves educating children about conservation
Our visit is not just about Liwonde, though. Dave says that in 2018, the Malawian government extended African Parks’ mandate to include the adjoining Mangochi Forest Reserve, so increasing the park’s footprint by 60%. There’s no direct link road yet, so it’s a long drive that loops north, close to the Mozambique border. En route to Mangochi, we stop at the park’s Honey with Heart project, where we meet beaming Clement Mnandi and his team. “Beekeeping is an alternative to poaching, charcoal, firewood and logging. This project empowers 580 beekeepers and benefits 3,500 households,” Clement tells us proudly. McCormick Phiri, one of the beekeepers, says he’s done well enough to buy a new motorbike and Anafi Mdala is, despite a clubfoot, one of the best honey producers. It certainly takes ‘heart’.
We’re joined by Meiring Smit, Mangochi’s young and energetic field operations manager, who’s done a great job of constructing a new ranger camp, airstrip and office. Meiring and a small team were also responsible for building plank bridges and cutting a steep, sinuous 4×4 track by hand to the top of Mangochi Mountain. In first and second gear, we growl and wind upwards through the pristine forests to reach the ruins of Fort Mangochi. “Your Defender is the first ever to reach this point,” Meiring says as, under the fort’s imposing walls, we munch a tailgate lunch of Erica’s home-baked bread and leftover nyama from the jolly braai of the night before. The fort’s strategic and picturesque location on the mountaintop offers breathtaking views of Mangochi’s valleys and plains that stretch towards Mozambique.
The view across Mangochi Forest Reserve
“With its unspoiled forests, a breeding population of leopards and unique bird and butterfly species, Mangochi is a crucial extension of Liwonde. Once the fencing is complete, it will provide extra space for elephants and other wildlife – and it has great potential for adventure tourism,” Dave says excitedly.
Kingsley and the Liwonde team pore over the Scroll of Peace & Goodwill
The following morning, as we watch three bull elephants lazily feeding in the gardens of the park’s HQ, Dave comes hurrying towards us, carrying the Africa Parks Scroll of Peace & Goodwill. He’s spent the night thinking carefully about his message of hope for Africa’s wildlife and wild spaces:
“Liwonde is an extraordinary piece of old Africa, with its slow Shire River full of crocs and hippos, and ancient baobabs … Mangochi is a forest wonderland, steeped in history with soaring granite outcrops above steeply wooded slopes and crystal clear streams. Together, they form an incredibly diverse complex that is under significant and increasing pressure – yet we have hope.
The Cambridge dictionary defines ‘Hope’ as wanting something to happen, or to be true, and usually having a good reason to think that it might. In African Parks and the dedicated men and women of the organisation, we have that good reason! Our hope is not naïve, or blind to the challenges and obstacles ahead; but we will persevere and ensure this remarkable place continues to thrive and that the communities are better off for the park’s existence, with dignity and mutual respect.”
It’s a powerful salute to this peaceful place – the poachers’ guns now thankfully silenced – where life still plays out to the rhythms and pace of wild Mama Afrika.
Sheelagh (second from right) poses with the Liwonde team, along with the expedition calabash
We’ll be ending the Malawian chapter of this Afrika Odyssey expedition at Majete Wildlife Reserve, the place where African Parks’ story began 20 years ago. It’s a bit of a pilgrimage; we’ve been looking forward to it for months, and the excitement is high.
Kingsley catches up on note-taking during a quiet moment
Resources
Liwonde National Park is an exceptional safari destination, revived from the brink of destruction & now a key protected area in Malawi. Read more about Liwonde here.
Amboseli elephants roaming Amboseli National Park, with Mt Kilimanjaro tucked behind clouds. Amboseli’s super tuskers are down to 10
Update 23/04/2024: We can confirm that two more large-tusked elephants have been trophy hunted in Tanzania near the Kenya border. A fourth elephant was hunted in Enduimet on 11 April – likely from the Amboseli elephant population. A fifth elephant was hunted in Longido, to the west of Enduimet, during the week of 14 April. The hunts were allegedly conducted by the same hunting outfitter that hunted previous elephants in the area and involved high profile members of Tanzania’s hunting fraternity. Our sources advise that unscrupulous outfitters are willing to violate the moratorium on hunting along the Kenya/Tanzania border, with no regard for the precarious state of Amboseli’s dwindling super tusker population. Meanwhile, those with detailed information are on lockdown, nervous to reveal details for fear of persecution – while petitions to the Tanzanian government fall on deaf ears.
Update 28/03/2024: Africa Geographic is now able to share photos taken shortly after the first trophy hunt that took place in Enduimet, showing the carcass and tusks of super tusker Gilgil. In the first image, Gilgil’s carcass can clearly be seen, and in the second, the tusks, removed from the carcass (measuring 99 pounds and 110 pound), are visible.
The carcass of super tusker Gilgil, trophy hunted in Enduimet; and Gilgil’s tusks after being removed from the carcass. The men pictured here were not members of the hunting party
Update 14/03/2024:Amboseli Trust for Elephants has positively identified the first trophy-hunted bull as Gilgil, a breeding elephant aged 35, who would have been approaching his prime reproductive years. Male elephants reach their prime breeding years at or about 40 years. Our sources confirm Gilgil was a ‘100-pounder’, with one tusk weighing 99 pounds and the other 110 pounds.
Amboseli tuskers down to 10 as trophy hunters operate in stealth mode
12 March 2024 – A third elephant hunted last week in the Enduimet area of Tanzania, within 40km of the Kenya/Tanzania border, has amplified the debate around hunting free-roaming cross-border elephant populations and super tuskers and driven a wedge between segments of the hunting community. With another three hunting licenses granted for elephant hunts in this region in the coming months, the integrity of the Amboseli elephant population is in jeopardy.
Following these legal hunts, about 10 super tuskers are left in the Amboseli Ecosystem, according to Big Life Foundation. This ecosystem encompasses land on either side of the Tanzania/Kenya border, including Amboseli National Park and surrounding conservancies in Kenya, as well as the Enduimet Wildlife Management Area and beyond in Tanzania.
The Amboseli elephant population includes well-known super tuskers (elephants with one or both tusks weighing over 100-pounds) such as Craig, Esau, Tee-Jay, Michael and One Ton – famous super tuskers that attract thousands of tourists yearly. Hunting is illegal in Kenya, but these elephants are vulnerable to trophy hunting when crossing into Tanzania, where hunting elephants with a license is legal.
Super tusker Craig in Amboseli National Park
In January, Africa Geographic broke the news that two super tuskers were hunted in the Enduimet area, close to the Kenyan border, in the latter half of 2023, sparking division within the hunting community and outrage outside of it. On 1 March this year, Africa Geographic received unconfirmed reports that a third elephant had been hunted in the Enduimet region. Shortly after this, news of the hunt started circulating on social media. On 11 March, Big Life Foundation released a statement confirming that a third elephant had been hunted. The statement noted that the elephant’s carcass was also burnt (as with the first two hunts), making identifying the specific elephant impossible. The tusk size of the third hunted elephant is unknown.
Elephant Voices, Big Life Foundation and Amboseli Trust for Elephants have released a Joint Statement on the Amboseli Elephants calling for the protection of this cross-border population and raising concerns about the granting of three further elephant-hunting licenses. These organisations are calling for the reinstatement of a moratorium on hunting in the border region, which has been in place since 1995:
“Our position is that the Amboseli cross-border population should be protected from trophy hunting because it is unique and highly valuable as a scientific base of knowledge of elephants. In addition, it represents one of the last gene pools for large tusks. A successful moratorium held for 30 years.… We appeal to the Tanzanian and Kenyan governments to work together to protect this cross-border population, to recognise its immense scientific value and to ensure that these treasured elephants are not the target of trophy hunters.”
All 2,000 elephants in the Amboseli elephant population are known, as they have been closely studied by the Amboseli Elephant Research Project (AERP) for 51 years.
“There are 63 elephant families in the Amboseli population, of which 17 families, consisting of 365 members, regularly spend time in Tanzania. In addition, approximately 30 adult male elephants, over the age of 25 years, use the Enduimet area and beyond in Tanzania as part of their home range,” says the Joint Statement. “For half a century, Enduimet has been a favourite area for a particular set of adult males who use it as part of their ‘bull area’, which is an area they use when they are bulking up for their next reproductively active period.”
Other stakeholders are also pushing for Tanzania to reinstate the cross-border agreement with Kenya to protect these elephants, with a petition on Change.org calling for signatures.
“Male elephants grow throughout their lifetime, as do their tusks.… By selecting older individuals, hunters not only have a damaging effect on elephant lives and society, but are negatively influencing the genetic future of the Amboseli population, not to mention the ecosystem’s tourism potential,” says the Joint Statement. Big Life added in their own statement, that “old bulls are not past their reproductive prime, as hunters contend. Research has shown that elephant bulls only reproduce consistently by age 40, by which time 75% of them will have died. So older bulls are in fact disproportionately important for breeding.”
Meanwhile, the African Professional Hunters Association has warned its members not to share photos on social media of hunted species that will “inflame public opinion”, and not to “deliberately market” any areas as “bordering non-hunting areas”. “The reality is that there are certain elephant bulls that we simply must avoid a confrontation with.… As to ignore such could come at grave cost to the entire act of elephant hunting,” reads the letter to members.
Since the killing of the third elephant, Africa Geographic has consulted with sources close to the hunt. While confirming that an elephant was shot in Enduimet, most sources refused to be named or provide documentation for fear of their safety. However, speculation on the identity of the hunting company and hunters involved is rife, with one prominent Texan hunter openly posting details of daily hunting activities in Enduimet on social media during the same period that the third elephant was shot. In the days following the killing of the elephant, he made his Instagram account private and has been inactive since. According to Instagram posts from the hunting party, the individuals were operating on a 21-day hunting license and killed at least 19 other animals during this period, including spotted hyenas, Patterson’s eland, Grant’s gazelle, gerenuk, Kirk’s dik-dik, lesser kudu, as well as wildebeest and zebra for “bait for a cat hunt”.
Various statements from within the trophy hunting industry, including the statement by Tanzanian spokesperson Michel Mantheakis addressed to Africa Geographic, indicate that there is a rising trend amongst a small faction of the industry for concealing these hunts targeting super tuskers rather than moving away from hunting them.
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Kingsley Holgate in Nkhotakota + saving cranes
Last weekend, I attended a joyous event that renewed my faith in local conservation efforts. A particularly beneficial 2,364 hectares of privately owned land has been added to Timbavati in the Greater Kruger – consolidating the significant conservation success of this wonderful Big 5 private nature reserve that shares an unfenced border with Kruger National Park. We watched as Wiggill and de Vos family members cut the wire fence that has, since I can remember, prevented wildlife from accessing an extensive stretch of the Klaserie River. Research projects have commenced to measure the impact on biodiversity and large trees as elephants move in to utilise what was forbidden fruit.
Meanwhile, a short distance away at my home, the warthog boars have started lip-clacking, heralding the start of the rut. The loud metallic clacking goes on for hours as the tunnel-vision gents follow the sows, nose to tail. Unfortunately the rainy season has been disappointing; some bushwillow trees are already turning orange, and the sparse grass has withered to straw. Are we in for a harsh dry season ahead?
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
And now for more news worth celebrating: A bird thought to be lost to science has been rediscovered in the cloud forests of the Democratic Republic of Congo. Not just one, but 18 yellow-crested helmetshrikes reappeared in bright yellow helmeted glory, chattering away in the trees, to a herpetology team from the University of Texas – who were exploring the forests on the mountain of the Itombwe Massif. The helmetshrike, which has not been seen in two decades, is endemic to the western slopes of the Albertine Rift. And the cherry on top? The discovery provides further motivation to drive the protection of these tropical forests from mining and logging.
Below, read about Kingsley Holgate’s expedition to Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve, and learn about the intricacies of crane conservation in South Africa’s wetlands.
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WATCH: Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve is Malawi’s oldest and largest reserve – encompassing 1,800km² of wild and rugged terrain. It extends east from the edge of the escarpment of the Great Rift Valley to just short of the shoreline of Lake Malawi. It is the ideal playground for hikers, mountain bikers and wilderness-seekers. Nkhotakota is Africa at her most raw and beautiful, removed from the indignities of mass commercial tourism. (06:03) Click here to watch
We’re supposed to be quiet at Henry Nsamjama Hide in Nkhotakota, but Kingsley’s stomach is giving out a series of frightening gurgles and groans. We get the giggles. “Must be worms, or that massive breakfast they served at the Environmental Centre,” he says with a grimace. “There’s a worm dose in the first aid kit,” Ross says helpfully, as the tummy gives out a particularly loud trumpeting sound. “Shhh – you’ll scare the elephants.” There follows a long, drawn-out jumbo-like rumble. We can smell and hear them in the forest…but then we realise it’s Kingsley again, and the elephants are quickly gone, disappearing like grey ghosts – too much competition! Sheelagh Antrobus shares news from the road.
A pair of hamerkops head-bob on the water’s edge as if in a whisper just audible above the Beard’s stomach growlings. We discuss how they are a close relative of the shoebills we’d recently seen in Bangweulu Wetlands. We watch a herd of roan antelope, kudu, waterbuck and a magnificent ebony-black male sable with huge scimitar horns walk serenely across the forest-fringed grasslands. Scenes like this would have been impossible 10 years ago.
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
It’s been called ‘one of the world’s largest restoration efforts.’ Nestled beneath the Chipata Mountain, a vast network of rivers weave through the wooded hills and dense miombo forests that make up Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve. First proclaimed in 1938, it is Malawi’s largest and was once home to 2,000+ elephants. But by 2012, years of ivory poaching had reduced the elephant population to a mere 100 animals, charcoal and logging were out of control and what was once a sanctuary for many wildlife species had diminished to a silent and empty forest. In 2015, the Malawian government joined forces with African Parks, and so began Nkhotakota’s journey of revival.
Fellow adventurers have an uncanny way of bumping into each other in the most unexpected of places. On a sandy track, we meet up with good Kiwi mate and keen conservationist Pete Eastwood, his brother Kevin and the lovely Adele. They’ve spent a few days here and scribble these words in the expedition Scroll:
“Nhotakota is a place of peace, tranquillity, pristine forests and friendly people, a Garden of Eden being restored with animals that once belonged here, and a reflection of what Malawi looked like a millennia ago.”
Kingsley with overlanders Kevin, Adele and Pete, who paused their journey to sign the Scroll
We’ve travelled this ‘Warm Heart of Africa’ many times before, most recently last year on our world-first – the transcontinental Hot Cape-Cold Cape expedition from Cape Aghulas on Africa’s southern tip to Nordkapp in Norway’s Arctic Circle in the new Land Rover Defenders. Over the years, we’ve seen first-hand the massive deforestation in this small country, caused by logging, charcoal, agriculture and population explosion. Now, as we get to explore Nkhotakota’s vast, still intact forests, we realise what a miracle of conservation it is that this piece of wilderness has not only survived but now has a new lease on life.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
It’s a Saturday afternoon but park manager David Nangoma is hard at work at their newly built HQ. The set-up is immaculate: graded roads, neat-as-a-pin workshops and fresh new signage give the sense of a place confidently being reborn. Smiling, cheerful, positive and with a playful sense of humour, we immediately warm to him. Raised in the Serengeti by his grandparents, David’s love for wildlife began at an early age. The afternoon hours speed past as he regales us with fascinating tales of both adversity and triumph – the greatest being 500 Elephants, the biggest and most successful elephant translocation in the world that took place in 2016-2017.
500 elephants were introduced into Nkhotakota between 2016 and 2017
This remarkable story had a two-fold mission: to restock Nkhotakota and reduce elephant overpopulation pressure on Malawi’s Liwonde National Park and Majete Wildlife Reserve. It’s easy to imagine the massive scale of it all; swarms of helicopters, teams of rangers, wildlife vets, game capture experts and volunteers including Prince Harry, big cranes and long convoys of flat-bed trucks transporting 500 elephants 350km by road across Malawi to Nkhotakota, along with 2,000 other animals. Then last year, a further 800 animals were reintroduced. In just seven years, this green jewel has been transformed into a thriving haven for wildlife and a tourism asset for the people of Malawi.
Kingsley examines the poaching material used to construct the elephant sculpture, named “Problem”
Nkhotakota’s environmental education centre is arguably the best we’ve ever seen – a work of art designed in the shape of an elephant. Along with the colourful and descriptive murals and information boards, conference centre and restaurant (great grub and friendly staff) the other main attraction is a life-sized elephant statue called ‘Problem’. Constructed from wire snares and jagged-tooth saw blades confiscated from illegal loggers, and dozens of poachers’ homemade firearms of every type, shape and bore, it epitomises the struggle that Nkhotakota’s elephants and other wildlife have endured.
David Nangoma holds the expedition’s Zulu calabash, having topped it up with water from the Bua River, and the “talking stick”, with the Nkhotakota team in the background
David is rightly proud of Nkhotakota’s transformation but reminds us that community education and awareness are key to the park’s survival: “If conservation education isn’t inculcated at a young age, children will grow up with a mindset that every animal is only a food source, and trees are only good for fuel. But if they learn early, they will become long-term ambassadors for Africa’s wildlife,” he says as we walk down a steep footpath to the Bua River, Nkhotakota’s principal water course. In a spectacular setting of rapids, pools, thick forest and elephant tracks crisscrossing the sandy banks, David – looking carefully out for crocs (“there are some monsters here”) – balances on the rocks to add a symbolic splash to the expedition’s Zulu calabash.
Nkhotakota’s principal watercourse, the Bua River, hosts some monster crocodiles
Timothy Maseku, Nkhotakota’s community extension manager, tells us that the park now provides hundreds of jobs, and thousands of people living on the boundaries benefit from income-generating projects such as beekeeping, dried-mango processing, chilli farming and irrigation. Schools and wildlife clubs have planted a whopping 100,000 trees and community members are regularly allowed into the park to harvest mushrooms, bamboo, thatching grass and medicinal herbs.
Community projects around Nkhotakota have been helping to reforest the park by planting trees
With Timothy and his energetic team, we roll up at a community school for a fun morning of conservation education and a wildlife art competition. The kids overcome their shyness to recite their wildlife-themed poetry, before swarming around the expedition Defenders for an impromptu geography lesson, using the Afrika Odyssey map printed on the bonnet. Then, at an African Parks-built community clinic that cares for hundreds of households, we’re able to provide eye tests and reading glasses to grannies and grandpas, and in a campaign supported by Land Rover, malaria prevention education and mosquito nets for pregnant women and mums with young children. What a great vibe – dancing, singing, and appreciating the good neighbourliness coming from the park.
Children from the communities on Nkhotakota’s boundary take part in the conservation art competition
Our base camp is at the tented Nkhotakota youth hostel inside the reserve. To the timeless sounds of an African night, Jacob Kwakwala talks animatedly about his work. “32 kids at a time from the surrounding communities come and stay here every weekend – it’s all about learning and seeing the wildlife. This camp and our education centre provide unforgettable memories, key to unlocking children’s understanding of the need to protect the environment.”
On our last morning, we’re astonished to find a huge crowd waiting at the park’s HQ – it seems everyone has turned out to say farewell: David and the management team, tough-looking rangers, Timothy and his community crew, staff from the Education Centre, even workshop mechanics. All insist on writing personalised messages of hope for Africa’s conservation in the expedition scroll and posing for a jolly team photo. We leave to cheerful shouts of “Zikomo Kwambiri – come back soon!”
Nkhotakota’s rangers line up to sign the expedition Scroll
What’s been achieved here at Nkhotakota in just 7 years is incredible. As we turn the expedition Defenders south down the shores of Lake Malawi, the words of Peter Fearnhead (CEO of African Parks) come to mind: “Seldom do we hear good news about elephants in Africa. This successful translocation was a pivotal moment for Malawi, which has emerged as a leader in African elephant conservation and park restoration. Rehoming 500 elephants and knowing they will thrive in Nkhotakota is a story of hope and survival, and a real example of what is possible with good collaboration.”
Wattled cranes rely on wetlands and grasslands for survival – linking them to the human populations that depend on these ecosystems
Wattled cranes are the largest crane species in Africa; globally Vulnerable but Critically Endangered in South Africa and Ethiopia. They rely on wetlands for breeding, and natural grasslands account for 75% of their breeding territory. It is, in fact, these characteristics of the wattled crane breeding biology that most significantly tie humanity to wattled cranes. Endangered Wildlife Trust’s Lara Jordan reports
In South Africa, the wattled crane population has declined by 35% over 20 years, leading to the population falling to numbers as low as 131 in 1995. In a water-scarce country like South Africa, wetlands play a crucial role through the storage, purification, stream-flow regulation and recharging of groundwater. All Earth’s creatures rely on natural water mechanisms (such as wetlands and rivers) for survival. But in South Africa, 35–50% of wetlands have been lost. In KwaZulu-Natal, the stronghold of South Africa’s wattled crane population, an estimated 50% of wetlands were lost between the 1950s and early 1980s. The loss of these wetlands is ascribed to damming, draining, afforestation, overgrazing, road building, siltation, and water abstraction. As the South African human population continues to increase, so too will water demands.
Occupying a complex space
Unfortunately, natural grasslands come under similar pressure as wetlands: only 2.8% of all grasslands are protected. Moreover, 65% of grasslands in South Africa have been irreversibly transformed through maize, sunflowers, sorghum, and wheat production. The mining industry, urban development, and rural sprawl are destroying vast areas of intact grasslands. These impacts, combined with the degradation of the biodiversity of grasslands through overgrazing, poor management, and lack of resources, are contributing to the increasing pressure on wattled cranes.
The mesic grasslands in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands and Southern Drakensberg, where wattled cranes breed, require a specific management practice. Mesic grasslands occur in higher rainfall areas, where fires and grazing are meant to maintain landscape biodiversity. The climate in these regions consists of low precipitation, allowing grasslands to thrive. Good management of these grasslands mirrors natural ecosystem processes, so land users will burn in winter to allow for diverse new growth. Likewise, managing grazing livestock on these lands is a vital balance between climate, correct stocking density and limiting the time livestock is fed on an area. Limiting this time imitates the migration of antelope such as eland over this land.
Wattled cranes are winter breeders, and it is in this complex space that we find them successfully breeding. Disturbance at wattled crane nest sites impacts the breeding success of the species, and if landscape-management practices are not sensitive to breeding birds, then the success of the nest is unlikely. As wattled cranes primarily breed on farmlands, they depend entirely on the goodwill of landowners and farmers.
Wattled cranes living alongside their domestic land sharers
Preserving wattled crane habitat
Over the last three decades, conservation efforts have focused on preserving wattled crane nest sites by working with land users and farmers to develop sustainable practices. Through these efforts, we have observed a steadily increasing trend for wattled cranes within KwaZulu-Natal. In 2020, we recorded the most significant population count – of 399 wattled cranes – as part of an annual aerial survey. These surveys are conducted by the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT)/International Crane Foundation Partnership, the EWT/Eskom Strategic Partnership and Ezemvelo KwaZulu-Natal Wildlife (the provincial conservation authority).
A wattled-crane chick rescue before the necessary wetland and grassland burn
During this time, we have collected many success stories of our work. We have supported farmers by protecting an egg or a chick during the necessary winter burns. In these areas we have prevented further landscape degradation by helping farmers place the land into Biodiversity Stewardship Schemes, and helped farmers turn these tracts of land into nature reserves. We have worked with farmers to remove fences in which wattled cranes have been caught. We have engaged with communities to share the value of the species. We have educated communities on why feral dogs are a threat to cranes. This nest-by-nest approach may seem to be a slow method of increasing a population. Still, it is now a proven technique, and with only an estimated 81 nesting territories in KwaZulu-Natal, every nest site matters. Advancements to the monitoring repertoire include satellite transmitters on wattled cranes to understand their movement. Understanding the non-breeding birds that account for 50% of the wattled crane population is important. Furthermore, understanding the species’ habitat preference and their nesting, foraging, and roosting requirements is vital to ensure a habitable landscape remains for the species.
Wattled crane nesting territory against the backdrop of a rural community where feral dogs harassed the birds at the nest site
It was the Greek philosopher Heraclitus who was quoted saying, “Everything changes, nothing stands still”. This is an astute observation for these post-Covid times. Costs are increasing – especially fuel costs – causing the cost of food to increase. The war in Russia has impacted fertiliser costs, further increasing food prices. Farming is changing to keep up with costs, and land ownership is changing due to economic challenges. The culmination of these impacts has increased the workload for conservationists who must develop new relationships as land changes ownership, to maintain the work being done in the home range of wattled cranes. This vital nest-to-nest monitoring will remain a prominent part of wattled crane conservation to mitigate threats – and needs to be maintained.
As we look into the future, new threats that far exceed the scale previously utilised for wattled crane conservation are emerging. Avian influenza and malaria can severely impact the population of wattled cranes. The changing distribution patterns of diseases – which evolve due to climate change – will have to be monitored across South Africa due to the high movement patterns of fowl. This will need to form part of a national, if not international, effort.
Wattled cranes rely entirely on the goodwill of landowners and farmers for survival
Wattled cranes and water
The increase in floods and droughts that are affecting South Africa impact people AND wildlife. These extreme conditions impact wattled crane chick survival and could further reduce breeding success for the species. Yet, we are fortunate that wattled crane needs are aligned with the needs and desires of the human population. We require water, and so do the cranes. This will not change. The conversion of wetlands to dams with the correct research and technical input could provide nesting territories, supporting the species’ population growth.
Protecting wetlands benefits cranes – and it also protects people in the face of climatic extremes. Intact wetlands can help control flooding and contribute to water resilience during droughts. Similarly, grasslands are a vital grazing resource for commercial and subsistence farmers. Appropriate grassland and wetland management is a skill that needs to be learned to maximise stock production, whilst preserving the grasslands over the long term.
Wattled cranes are dependent on wetlands for nesting. This chick, just a few days old, can swim across to the nest site, where it is protected from predators
Predicted climate change for South Africa will likely cause a shift in the production of maize in the core wattled-crane home range. As other areas become too dry or too prone to drought, we expect to see an increase in the conversion of grasslands to maize lands in the Midlands and Southern Drakensberg. Maize is the staple diet for many South Africans. More conversion of grasslands to cultivated fields will cause a new decline in the population of wattled cranes. The South African human population is 60.41 million and is expected to increase to 62.90 million by 2025. Invariably, the increase in human population will worsen current pressures on wattled cranes. So, perhaps the biggest threat to wattled cranes in South Africa is the increasing demand for food for a rising population. Add to this climatic changes, which cause agricultural needs to expand within the home range of the wattled cranes. The future of cranes rests in the uncertainty of this space.
Researchers have uncovered a looming extinction crisis for Africa’s birds of prey, painting a grim picture for the continent’s raptors. Read more here.
Travel in Africa is about knowing when and where to go, and with whom. A few weeks too early/late or a few kilometres off course, and you could miss the greatest show on Earth. And wouldn’t that be a pity?
Trust & Safety
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DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? 
A second group of Angolan giraffes, numbering 13, has been successfully relocated to Iona National Park, Angola, as part of an ongoing conservation initiative to restore and enrich the park’s biodiversity. Last year, Angolan giraffes were returned to their historical home after an absence of more than a century, and this second translocation continues this conservation success story.
. All meals were light yet filling, emphasising vegetarian and fish dishes. The main starch is manioc (cassava), to which is added sweet potato, various vegetables, fish, fruit, freshly baked breads and dips made of ground nuts (peanuts), spinach and smoked barbel (catfish). Barbel wrapped in leaves and roasted over open coals was heavenly, and the delicious aroma as we savoured cold beers after an extraordinary safari day is a fond memory. An indigenous fruit by the name of ‘safou’ from the African pear tree Dacryodes edulis was another highlight and a first for me – an intriguing taste blend reminiscent of avocado and lemon, with an avo texture. The kitchen crew introduced the meals with pride and face-cracking grins.
