This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
Trophy hunting in Madikwe? + understanding Okavango + wild dog safari
Safaris don’t happen on Instagram
The bull elephant stood meters from us, his posture oozing curiosity and perhaps a degree of uncertainty. We were silent, relaxed and absorbed in the moment. This was inter-species communication via sentience and body language. I was doing bush time with Lizz and two close friends, all experienced in the ways of observation and enjoying each moment for what it is.
My photo (above) has attracted a few suggestions that we were ‘too close’ and ‘reckless’, etc. The de rigueur keyboard reaction to a single image that seldom captures the true essence of the experience – the Instagram safari. You will better understand the moment in our video below.
Earlier, we were trundling along a dusty winter morning bush track in an old Landy when we spotted a herd of frisky bulls jostling a hundred meters away. We switched off and watched the spectacle. One of the ellies broke off and headed our way, the others moving off to our right, still messing about. Our bull approached in that jaunty way they have, the shuffle-run that covers ground quickly, his head bobbing and trunk swinging. Yet his last few meters were all about cautious curiosity before he settled down next to us. His bright, observant eyes took us all in, scanning our vehicle and watching our every move. After several minutes of safari nirvana, he gave us a wonderful ear-clap and we respected the message by heading off.
The best safari moments happen in between photos – those moments of learning and wonderment. For our safari guests already out there, or about to head out, safari njema, good people!
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
City life is bulking up the locals – and we’re not just talking about gym bros. Did you know that some dwarf chameleons living in cities are growing bigger than their wilderness counterparts? Research reveals that African dwarf chameleons living in urban environments are not only surviving – they’re thriving. Compared to their countryside cousins, city slickers of the Bradypodion genus are longer, heavier, and in better shape overall.
Factors like abundant food, fewer predators, and a lesser need for climbing trees could be behind this growth spurt in the city dwellers. However, other studies have noted higher competition between males in other dwarf chameleon species in urban areas. Either way, it’s a fascinating peek into how some reptiles are adapting fast to our concrete jungles. So next time you spot a Bradypodion in the suburbs – that little dude might just be living his best life.
This week we share the news that trophy hunting may return to Madikwe & Pilanesberg, targeting elephant & buffalo in both parks, & rhino in Madikwe – according to a tender invitation from the North West Parks and Tourism Board. See the story below. Plus, we also share our comprehensive guide to understanding the Okavango Delta.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
The Okavango Delta is an enormous watery oasis, home to an astonishing variety of wildlife and host to some of the best Botswana safaris
Story 2
HUNTING NORTH WEST
Trophy hunting may return to Madikwe & Pilanesberg, targeting elephant & buffalo in both parks, & rhino in Madikwe – per a tender from NW Parks & Tourism Board
TRAVEL DESK:
2 SAFARI IDEAS
Southern Africa wild dog safari – 14 days – from US$13,735pps
This unforgettable 14-day journey through Southern Africa, led by expert guides, will take you to all the best spots to see endangered African wild dogs. Visit Hwange, Mana Pools, Linyanti and Khwai, and stop over in Victoria Falls. Experience guided bush walks, game drives, mokoro excursions and canoe trips – all in search of painted wolves.
Botswana salt pans expedition – 6 days – from US$6,743pps
Find your soul on this journey to Makgadikgadi Pans – including a quadbike trip to the fabled Kubu Island. An iconic exploration of the vast Botswana salt pans – coupled with game drives in grassy plains and brush packed with a surprising amount of wildlife. Meet meerkats, sleep under ancient baobabs and a gazillion stars, and enjoy luxury tented accommodation and delicious meals.
OUR SAFARI GUESTS SAY…
Another 5-star review for teamAG! Seasoned AG safari guest Roger enjoyed an unforgettable Greater Kruger and Kalahari safari:
“South Africa May 2025. After last year’s visit to Timbavati Nature Reserve and Tswalu Kalahari Reserve, I was keen to repeat the experience as these two places always deliver great viewing and their staff are excellent.
Whilst in Timbavati, I heard about the white lions in Ngala, the reserve adjoining the Timbavati. I asked AG expert Christian to put together a trip including the three destinations above. The first stop was Tanda Tula, and as usual, the game viewing was excellent. Great sightings of a rhino and calf, lions bringing down a buffalo, leopards, and a first sighting of an African harrier hawk attempting to break into a hornbill nest in a tree trunk, to name a few.
Next stop was Ngala, and we saw two white lions: a female and a one-year-old cub. The final stop was Tswalu. During my visit last year, we spent a lot of time with the wild dogs but didn’t see them make a successful hunt. The priority this time was to see them hunt to conclusion. The guide made sure this was fulfilled. We saw three takedowns. Other great sightings included a black rhino with two equally long horns, caracal, aardvark, and brown hyena. Tswalu certainly delivered on this visit. I can’t wait to return.
All the connecting flights, transfers, etc. went without a hitch.
Yet another incredible experience organised by Christian. I’m looking forward to our next trip!”
WATCH: Perhaps you have always wanted to see the Big 5 with your family, trek for mountain gorillas, or watch the drama of the Serengeti great migration, followed by sand-in-your-toes time on a white sandy beach? Or maybe you seek absolute wilderness, where it’s just you and your thoughts. Africa Geographic makes these dreams come true for you. Ask Africa Geographic to plan your next African safari. (01:06) Click here to watch
Trophy hunting may soon return to Madikwe Game Reserve and Pilanesberg National Park* – targeting elephant, buffalo and black rhino in Madikwe, and elephant and buffalo in Pilanesberg. This, according to the bid proposal document for a tender invitation released by the North West Parks and Tourism Board (NWPTB) in May.
In the original tender documentation, NWPTB invited proposals from professional hunters, outfitters, and culling teams to hunt wildlife in 14 provincial reserves during the 2025/2026 financial year. The tender proposal guidelines suggested that all hunting activities must be completed by 30 September 2025. In addition to Madikwe and Pilanesberg, other North West provincial reserves such as S.A. Lombard Nature Reserve and Molopo Nature Reserve were also included in the document. Three categories of game removal – including trophy hunting, biltong hunting and culling were cited for different reserves. Various species were included in different categories, including Cape buffalo, wildebeest, blesbok and zebra.
Among the most controversial allocations that were published in the tender documents for trophy hunting are:
25 elephant, 2 black rhino, and 10 buffalo in Madikwe
10 elephant and 5 buffalo in Pilanesberg
The inclusion of black rhino, a critically endangered species, has especially shocked onlookers. With over 30 photographic tourism lodges in Madikwe alone, there is growing anxiety that the latest developments could inflict reputational damage and jeopardise conservation and tourism investment.
A black rhino in Madikwe
Stakeholder meetings are ongoing this week in Madikwe and Pilanesberg to discuss the tenders. The NWPTB has committed to improved communication, but the clock is ticking, with the original tender submission process deadline set for 10 June. There are also whisperings of the tender being altered or pulled since the outcry, but this could not be confirmed.**
Some stakeholders – including lodge owners, tourism investors and conservationists – claim they were not informed of the tender invitation before it was issued. Many are concerned about a lack of transparency in the initiation of the hunting tender, suggesting that the rushed nature of the process is likely motivated by a desperate need for rapid fundraising.
“It’s deeply concerning that tourism partners have been excluded from decision-making, especially given their long-standing investment in anti-poaching and wildlife management,” said one tourism stakeholder who asked to remain anonymous.
The original tender invitation advertisement published in May
Government’s position
Despite the backlash, the North West provincial government insists the move is both necessary and legally sound. According to Member of the Executive Council, Bitsa Lenkopane, the decision reflects a broader strategy to balance ecological realities, economic needs, and community interests. Lenkopane heads up the North West Department of Economic Development, Environment, Conservation and Tourism (DEDECT).
“We are in the space of bringing balance,” Lenkopane told Africa Geographic. “Balance in this case is about those in business, landowners, and those who are managing the land.”
Lenkopane emphasised that communities around Madikwe and Pilanesberg – such as the Bakgatla-ba-Kgafela and other traditional authorities – have increasing say over land use, and the government’s role is to facilitate their needs and guide conservation efforts.
Cape buffalo in Madikwe would also be hunting targets
The inclusion of rhino and elephant in the tender
Lenkopane would not comment on the tender specifically, but when asked about the possible hunting of black rhino, she suggested, “We have the legislation as a province. We also understand the position of CITES [Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora] and some measures that are in place regarding the quota of rhinos. I am satisfied about the application of the law in the whole space.”
Lenkopane also cited the province’s burgeoning populations of elephant as a central concern, especially in Madikwe. “The management of [elephants’] ratio to the land which they are occupying must not result in extinction and endangering of other species,” she said.
The hunting tender document explicitly refers to the proposed hunting activities as a form of “game reduction”.
Both Madikwe and Pilanesberg are fenced reserves, with Madikwe encompassing 75,000 hectares and Pilanesberg 50,000 hectares.
Population management in Madikwe
Madikwe does face a conundrum, with its reported 1,600 elephants far exceeding the optimal population size of 500 elephants cited in Madikwe’s 2022/2023 Elephant Management Plan. The plan notes the upper carrying capacity limit for elephants in Madikwe is 1,000. But the report clearly states that “culling is not a preferred option… and is considered a last resort.” Furthermore, selective hunting in Madikwe of adult bulls is only permitted under “exceptional circumstances”. The report goes on to claim that “trophy hunting is not efficient at population control – it is more tied to economics and problem animal control.”
In December last year, media coverage decried an increasingly dire situation in Madikwe, where elephants were allegedly dying of starvation due to overgrazing and drought. At the time, the NSPCA entered the reserve to investigate and humanely euthanise suffering elephants. Reports estimated 80 of Madikwe’s elephants had died from starvation due to drought and overgrazing since August 2024. NWPTB ecologist Pieter Nel noted that the drought and uncontrolled growth of the elephant population were the main drivers of deaths in Madikwe. “Having too many elephants in a reserve harms the entire ecosystem,” Nel told The Mail and Guardian at the time. “I think Madikwe has shown what can happen if you pass that threshold.”
Elephants trek over dusty ground in Madikwe
Piet Nel’s words foreshadowed the current proposal, saying the reserve drastically needed to reduce its elephant numbers to bring it back to a situation where the system can properly recover. Nel said there had previously been a conscious decision to use non-lethal methods of managing the elephant population, but “we have to admit it didn’t yield the desired results… Now, we will have to look at other ways, including lethal options.”
For now, the MEC insists, the government’s focus remains clear: “We want to develop communities. We want to protect our animals. We want to balance the ecosystem.”
Lenkopane also confirmed that an elephant management task team, composed of ecologists, academic representatives from universities, and government entities, has been established and is feeding into the provincial strategy. “We’ve got universities involved because we want them to guide us on the recent developments,” she said.
But the ecologists and tourism stakeholders consulted by AG also questioned whether the findings of this task team have fed into the tender decision, stating that the research is still ongoing in the reserve and the resolution to hunt is thus premature.
When asked about how age, sex, and tusk size determinations will be made around elephant trophy hunting targets in Madikwe and Pilanesberg, Lenkopane declined to comment on the details of the procurement process, citing tender protocols. Lenkopane said these details will be worked out by “the universities and experts”.
An added challenge for Madikwe is the restrictions on population management of black rhino and buffalo populations, which are non-translocatable due to the presence of Bovine Tuberculosis (bTB) in the reserve. “Consumptive use,” Madikwe’s Elephant Management Plan notes, may be allowed where legislation permits – but only where other options have failed.
Hunting organisations
Regarding stakeholder sentiment around the possibility of trophy hunting taking place in North West reserves, Lenkopane says, “People are excited – I must say – but there’s a lot of consultation and public comments. Some refused to come, but some came. We’ve had about two to three rounds. They were all consulted.”
The province’s long-standing relationships with hunting bodies is no secret. “We have relationships with different organisations like Phasa [Professional Hunters’ Association of South Africa],” notes Lenkopane. “We take them seriously and we also view their issues as seriously as we view the issues of communities.”
In January 2025, Lenkopane attended the Dallas Safari Club Annual Convention and Sporting Expo – arguably one of the largest annual gatherings of hunters in the USA. Lenkopane stated her visit aimed to “attract foreign investment in order to revitalise the North West Province’s protected areas network and enhance contribution to South Africa’s biodiversity economy.” The North West government asserted at the time it was working closely with Phasa and the Custodians of Professional Hunting and Conservation South Africa to resolve “concerns regarding export quota processes”.
Parks with hunting pasts
Big Five hunting in Madikwe and Pilanesberg was phased out in the mid-2000s following resistance from tourism operators and international guests. A former provincial official confirmed that earlier hunting models led to tourist cancellations, reduced wildlife sightings, and long-term reputational damage. “Guests also complained about reduced sightings and all these led to the Board discontinuing hunting in both reserves,” said the former official.
Current developments have stakeholders questioning if zoning and logistical issues were properly evaluated in the tender process, such as the placement of hunting camps, potential conflict between tourists and hunters, and the enforcement of rules and standard operating procedures to manage this overlap.
“With such a density of photographic tourism infrastructure, it’s almost impossible to conduct hunts without impacting guests – whether through gunshots, carcass disposal, or road closures,” added ecologist Roger Collinson, who has worked extensively in Madikwe and Pilanesberg. “Is the potential short-term financial gain from trophy hunting worth the likely long-term loss in tourism income, brand damage, and broader socio-economic benefits?” says Collinson.
Critics warn that the long-term costs of reintroducing trophy hunting may far outweigh short-term financial gains. “If even a few international tour operators or agents pull out over this, the economic fallout for tourism in Madikwe could far exceed any income from a handful of hunts,” said one tourism investor.
Will elephants be targets of trophy hunting in Madikwe?
The eyes of the world
With reputations, ecosystems, and endangered species on the line, the outcome of this decision could echo far beyond the borders of Madikwe and Pilanesberg.
As the June 10th deadline for tender submissions approaches, the debate over trophy hunting in Madikwe and Pilanesberg has laid bare deep tensions. Whether this initiative serves as a practical response to ecological strain or a short-sighted bid for revenue, its outcomes will have lasting implications – not only for wildlife and the tourism economy in the North West Province, but also for how South Africa is perceived on the global conservation stage.
*Pilanesberg National Park, despite its name, is not an official South African national park, as it falls under the jurisdiction of the North West provincial government. Its status as a reserve in a former independent homeland earned it the name “National Park”, but its management does not fall under SANParks or the National Protected Areas Act.
**Update 5 June: An altered version of the tender bid documents published on the North West Tourism Facebook page did not mention trophy hunting in Madikwe and Pilanesberg.
The Okavango Delta emanates in the highlands of Angola, where the mighty Okavango River begins as just a trickle before gradually becoming the third largest river in southern Africa that flows for over 1,600km to reach inland Botswana. Around 60,000 years ago, the river deposited water into Lake Makgadikgadi, a paleolake believed to have covered over 100,000km² of Botswana’s interior. At a time when we were just dragging ourselves into the Later Stone Age, most of southern Africa was rattled by severe seismic activity that created a tectonic trough. The earthquake (or earthquakes) must have come as something of a shock to the residents of the area, but also happened to change the shape of the earth’s crust to block the Okavango’s original path almost entirely.
The river water had nowhere to go and poured relentlessly into the Kalahari Desert, creating the endorheic basin of the Okavango Delta – one of the largest inland deltas in the world. Today, the Okavango River continues to discharge around 11km³ of water every year into the swamps that spread across an area of 6,000km²–15,000km² (depending on the time of the year). One of the Seven Natural Wonders of Africa and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Okavango Delta – including Moremi Game Reserve in its centre and Khwai on the eastern fringes – is an enormous oasis home to a wide variety of wildlife, and its tourist value contributes around 13% of Botswana’s GDP.
The herd navigates the waters
An alluvial fan
The Okavango River flows into Botswana at the small village of Mohembo before fanning out into a combination of twisting channels and lagoons lined by thick beds of papyrus and reeds along the Delta floodplains, initially through a comparatively narrow area known as the Panhandle. The swamplands of the Okavango are permanently flooded, but the bog surrounding them fills seasonally, depending on water levels. The Delta layout is somewhat dynamic. While the water may follow different routes depending upon changing sandbanks and blockages, the Delta waters will fill up main channels, then secondary channels, and eventually overflow and saturate floodplains. Forces of scouring, sediment deposition, animal activity, and vegetation blockages (and over a more extended time period, formation of tree islands) cause channels to become wetter or progressively drier. So some areas get wetter over time, and some get drier. The wetter areas may spill over into irregularly flooded areas, or even flood woodlands during high floods.
Furthermore, the tectonic trough responsible for the formation of the basin of the Delta is relatively flat. Still, there are many islands of various sizes (the largest being Chief’s Island) and salt islands with barren white centres that are too saline for plant growth.
The waterways around these islands are one of the Okavango’s biggest drawcards, and many tourist lodges overlook some of the more extensive permanent lagoons of the region. Visitors flow to the Delta yearly to explore its watery surrounds either by motorboat or on the famous and more traditional mokoro (or mekoro, plural). This canoe-like vessel allows visitors to immerse themselves (ideally not literally) in nature as they drift through the reeds. The location of each lodge will determine what activities they can offer guests at certain times of the year.
The Okavango Delta is home to a significant population of lions
A seasonal sensation
A fundamental difference exists between Okavango’s “wet/rainy season” and the “flood season”. As described, the Okavango River’s source is in Angola, an area with a far higher average annual rainfall than Botswana. The rains in Angola are at their highest in January. Still, the increase in water levels takes months before it reaches the Delta itself, making an exploration of the Delta a seasonally variable experience. Typically, the floodwaters reach the head of the Delta around May, but the progress of the water through the dense swamps is slow, and the highest water levels are seen in June/July. The rains in Botswana are also seasonal, and, bearing in mind that nature can be highly unpredictable, the wet season begins around November. It ends around March, as the temperatures start to drop.
Exceptional sightings abound in the Delta
January: Right in the middle of the rainy season, as the foliage is at its thickest, January is not necessarily the best time of year for wildlife viewing, but the scenery is probably at its most spectacular, emphasised by dramatic afternoon thunderstorms. The Delta is also crowd-free during this time of year. The migrant bird species have all recovered from their respective travels, and most are in full breeding display mode.
A young leopard is unphased by the drenching rains
February: As in January, the Delta is verdant, lush and pulsates with life in February. The days can still be blisteringly hot, and the thunderstorms persist, making driving conditions difficult. Despite the wet conditions, the actual water levels of the Delta may still be too low for specific water activities in certain areas. February is also still a relatively quiet time in terms of other travellers, so you’ll have the plains all to yourself.
March: The days tend to become drier as March progresses, and the first winter chill can be felt in the evenings towards the end of the month. While there is still a risk of very heavy rains, the Delta is beautiful in March, the migrant birds are bulking up in preparation for their return journey, and, importantly, it is still low season, so many camps and lodges offer special rates. As grasses are relatively high during this time, it’s essential to have an excellent guide to navigate the area.
Up close and personal to an elephant, viewed from a mokoro
April: Though the temperatures of the nights can drop rapidly, the daytime April temperatures tend to be pleasant and warm (still hot on some days). The antelope species explode into rutting season, and the dry floodplains are dominated by fighting impala rams that have spent the rainy season preparing for this crucial moment. If the rains start early in Angola, the water levels might rise in April, and there is a feeling of electric energy in the air before the dry season begins.
May: The hot days without rain begin to dry out the surrounding seasonal waterholes in the areas around Chobe and Linyanti, while the floodwaters from upstream start to flow into the northern edges of the Delta. As a result, elephants and other plains wildlife are drawn to the Delta, and thus, the spectacular wildlife sightings of the Okavango dry season begin. As the water levels rise, water activities such as motorboating become possible throughout the region.
June: The coldest nights are recorded in June, with temperatures dropping to around 2˚C each night, but the days are pleasantly mild, especially for those not accustomed to southern African heat. June is also denning season for the region’s painted wolf (African wild dog) packs, which often results in more frequent sightings, and the thinning vegetation improves the quality of all sightings. June marks the beginning of the high season, and Okavango Delta safaris at this time should be planned well in advance.
Familiar sights in the Delta: painted reed frog (left) and water lilies (right)
July: July marks the height of the flood, and water levels have risen throughout the region, becoming essential for the area’s wildlife as the dry season takes hold. As rains have ceased, the vegetation begins to turn brown; trees lose their leaves, and the days are dusty. As vegetation dwindles, animals struggle to conceal themselves, and wildlife viewing enters its most productive phase.
August: The wildlife viewing in August in the Delta is extraordinary as animals tend to congregate along the edges of waterways in search of food. The days are just warming up, and the water levels remain relatively high, so land- and water-based activities are possible throughout the region. For birders, herons, storks, and egrets arrive in their hundreds to build their nests in the lagoons.
September: The temperatures begin to rise dramatically in September, and the Okavango Delta is the only source of food and water for all wildlife in the region. The water levels start to recede, and the only greenery is close to the waterways, making September one of the best months for wildlife sightings.
Wading through the waters: a lion (left) and red lechwe (right) explore the Delta
October: October is one of the hottest months in the Okavango. Without the relief of afternoon thunderstorms, daytime temperatures regularly peak over 40˚C . The almost non-existent vegetation makes it easy to spot predators and is never far from the channels, making them the highlight of an Okavango Delta safari in October. The flood levels have dropped considerably, and, depending on the area, some water activities may no longer be possible.
November: The arrival of the rainy season also sees the arrival of tsessebe, lechwe and impala calves. The predators have no sympathy for the vulnerability or innocence of these youngsters and take full advantage of the situation against the backdrop of the first thunderstorms of the season.
December: As the second wettest month of the year, there is always the possibility of being rained out, but the wildlife viewing remains good, and it is an exceptional experience to watch the bush rejuvenate with the relief of the rains. The water levels are low across the Delta, so this is not the best time of year for those interested in water activities, apart from some of the more central and northern lodges that have access to deeper water for most of the year.
Elephants on a leisurely delta trek
Year-round delights
While it is undoubtedly true that the peak safari season of June to October offers the best wildlife sightings, the Okavango is always an exceptionally wildlife-rich wilderness area that offers unique attractions year-round. The low-density tourism model adopted by the Botswanan authorities means that most safari experiences in the Delta are through luxury camps and lodges, many of which have exclusive access to private concessions. This, in turn, means that the revenue necessary to conserve a key wilderness area can be maintained with minimal impact on the area itself.
Burchell’s zebras cross the waters of Moremi Game Reserve, in the Delta
The Okavango’s wildlife sightings are extraordinary, offering anything from the Big 5 to enormous herds of red lechwe plunging through the shallow floodplains, secretive sitatunga, wild dogs, two hyena species and massive herds of buffalo and elephants drawn to the only permanent water during the dry season. The Okavango is a birder’s paradise and every year a variety of bird species nest side by side at enormous heronries – herons, storks, darters, egrets (including slaty egrets) and occasionally even pink-backed pelicans all using the same trees or matted reed-beds to breed.
As expected, the water canals are also home to many fish species, including tilapia, tigerfish, and catfish, and ‘catch-and-release’ fishing is permitted along the Panhandle. Some camps in the Delta offer fishing with seasonal restrictions. Decreasing water levels at the end of the flood season also result in the annual catfish run, where thousands of African sharptooth catfish swim back up the channels, hunting and being hunted as they go.
No trip to the Okavango Delta is complete without a mokoro ride down lush waterways
The Okavango Delta offers diverse accommodations and travel options to suit various preferences and budgets, from luxurious lodges, which provide exclusive safari experiences with elegant tented rooms and private pools, to more affordable camps, emphasising closeness to nature over opulence. For those seeking adventure, mobile camping safaris offer a unique way to explore the Delta, with options ranging from budget-friendly setups where guests assist with camp duties to more luxurious versions with full staff support.
The natural fauna and flora of the Okavango Delta have adapted to an ever-changing ecosystem
Travelling to the Okavango Delta typically involves flying into Maun International Airport, followed by a short charter flight to your chosen lodge or camp.
Africa’s Eden
The combined natural beauty and ecological importance of the Okavango Delta has gained several affectionate nicknames, from the ‘Jewel of the Kalahari’ to ‘the Louvre of the Desert’ and ‘Africa’s Last Eden’. The Okavango Delta is a natural phenomenon created by a unique combination of geographic, climatic and biological conditions where the natural fauna and flora have adapted to an ever-changing ecosystem. For visitors to Botswana’s iconic wilderness, this means a chance to explore an almost untouched, pristine wetland system where Africa’s wild dramas have played out mostly unchanged for the past 60,000 years.
Check out this fantastic gallery of images by Hannes Lochner, which will have you booking your Okavango Delta (Botswana) safari with us and packing your bags
Moremi Game Reserve lies at the heart of the Okavango Delta and is the only formally protected section of the Delta. Read more about Moremi here
That word ‘luxury’ is so subjective and often alienating. It has been hijacked by purveyors of excess and opulence, and speaks of chunky watches and fast cars shoved into conversations and social media posts. And yet, an evolved version of luxury goes to the core of the tailor-made experiential safaris that we craft at Africa Geographic, in addition to our conservation media and donations. Hold my sundowner G&T, and let me explain.
With us the renaissance of ‘luxury with purpose’ transcends opulence and embraces meaning. Luxury safaris should no longer be defined by crystal glass chandeliers or rimflow pools but by soulful connection, exclusivity of experience, and purposeful impact.
Our safari guests crave stories, authenticity, and the reassurance that their journey is contributing to something greater. Holidays that transform. Of course, some fortunate travellers can afford a higher price tag than others, but that is the way of the world. Our focus at teamAG is to persuade our guests to employ their comparative wealth in the pursuit of changing lives on both sides of the travel experience.
As the world reawakens to the value of wild spaces, choose responsible safaris that honour the land and its people. Help us redefine luxury – not as excess but as experience, intention, and legacy.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Ever wondered why elephants are so… wrinkly? Turns out those creases are more than just good looks. Elephant wrinkles – especially on their trunks – aren’t random folds, but functional features that aid in gripping, shape-shifting, and even reveal a kind of “trunkedness”. Yes, elephants, like humans, show left- or right-handed preferences when grabbing things.
Scientists have studied various elephants, from unborn calves to zoo-dwelling pachyderms, to understand their glorious folds, and found that these wrinkles begin developing in the womb and deepen with age. Think of it as nature’s way of building better tools. Proof, once again, that evolution doesn’t waste a wrinkle.
We will soon be announcing the WINNERS of Photographer of the Year 2025… And what a journey it’s been! But, we have chosen the FINALISTS, and this week we share two galleries filled with our entrants’ epic photos.
Plus we share the magic of West Coast National Park: from wildflowers to whales, ancient footprints and epic birding.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Fancy a guided photographic safari in Kenya’s Maasai Mara? Join award-winning photographer Arnfinn Johansen on this exclusive safari for four guests. Highlights include guided game drives with an experienced Maasai guide in a modified photographic vehicle and accommodation at Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp. Departure Dates: 24 October–1 November 2025. Only 2 spaces left.
Experience the best of Mana Pools – inland and floodplains – with safari expert and photographic guide, Villiers Steyn. This epic photographic safari, led by two expert guides, is for the adventurous traveller and photographer seeking incredible wildlife action. Mana Pools National Park in Zimbabwe offers raw and surreal photographic opportunities. SADC rates available. Only 1 space left! (Check out the video at the bottom of this newsletter to see what’s in store for your Villiers Steyn safari)
YOUR SAFARI JUST HELPED SAVE AFRICA’S VULTURES
We’ve got incredible news to share – you made a real difference.
Thanks to your safari booking with Africa Geographic, we’ve proudly donated US$5,000 to the Endangered Wildlife Trust’s Birds of Prey Programme in response to a heartbreaking mass vulture poisoning incident just weeks ago. This emergency support helped fund rapid rescue missions and rehabilitation efforts that prevented a potential crisis in southern Africa.
When you travel with AG, you do more than explore Africa’s wild places – you help protect them. A portion of every AG safari booking goes directly to vital conservation projects like this one. Because of your decision, Africa’s vultures are getting a second chance.
Ready to plan your next life-changing safari?
Let us craft your dream journey – and know that your adventure supports the creatures that need it most. Check out some of our safari ideas here.
WATCH: A photographic safari in Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe, offers an extremely wild, untamed experience. Villiers Steyn headed up an Africa Geographic photographic safari to Chitake Springs, Mana Pools, and here’s how it went down. You too can join Villiers on a photo safari to Mana Pools – see the safari details above. (09:23) Click here to watch
West Coast National Park brings to mind aquamarine waters and a sun-kissed coastline – accompanied by wildflowers, whales, ancient footprints and flamingos. But there’s more to West Coast National Park than meets the eye. Just 90 minutes from Cape Town, this coastal gem offers seasonal spectacles, fascinating history, and an incredible diversity of life. Whether you’re a birder, beachcomber, or history buff, adventure awaits.
Stretching along the rugged coastline of South Africa’s Western Cape, West Coast NP is a kaleidoscope of natural and cultural wonders. From the clear waters of Langebaan Lagoon and the annual eruption of wildflowers to ancient human footprints and over 250 bird species, this park is a treasure trove. More than just a summer escape, it offers immersive experiences within a richly diverse ecosystem, no matter the season.
Wildflowers in West Coast NP’s Postberg section
One of South Africa’s 21 national parks, West Coast NP spans over 47,000 hectares, including contractual areas and offshore islands inaccessible to the public – Marcus, Malgas, Schaapen and Jutten Islands. These offshore sanctuaries provide critical nesting areas for several red-listed seabird species, including the Cape gannet. The park also encompasses five Marine Protected Areas along its Atlantic coastline: Malgas, Jutten and Marcus Islands, the Langebaan Lagoon, and Sixteen Mile Beach.
Cape gannets on Malgas Island
Langebaan Lagoon, the park’s most striking feature, is a shimmering expanse of turquoise that draws a diversity of birdlife and plays a vital conservation role. The surrounding salt marshes are unique, as no river feeds the lagoon. These marshes account for approximately 32% of South Africa’s entire salt marsh habitat – a crucial ecological asset. The lagoon supports thriving populations of crustaceans, molluscs, and marine algae, and also serves as a nursery for juvenile fish.
While summer is a great time to visit, winter leading into spring reveals a very different kind of magic. It may not be ideal for sunbathing unless you’re brave, but the landscape dons a different outfit. In August and September, visitors can witness the annual wildflowers, transforming the landscape into a vibrant tapestry of colour and new life. The park’s Postberg section, renowned for its breathtaking carpets of wildflowers, opens exclusively during these months.
A sea of flowers appears in August and September
The importance of the park stretches beyond its natural beauty: West Coast NP also holds immense historical and paleontological significance. The park and its surroundings are a treasure trove of paleontological wonders, boasting many Pliocene and Pleistocene fossil beds found just 10km north of the park, offering a glimpse into the distant past. One of the most remarkable discoveries within the park’s boundaries is the fossil imprints of ancient human footprints, found in Kraalbaai in 1995. Dubbed Eve’s Footprint, the print is estimated to be a staggering 117,000 years old, providing a tangible link to our ancestral past. Visitors can view a replica of the print at the Geelbek Information Centre, while the original print is housed in Iziko’s South African Museum in Cape Town.
While most travellers visit for the park’s history and lagoon, there are significant wildlife populations in the park worth seeking out. Bontebok, springbok, eland, Cape mountain zebra, red hartebeest, Cape grysbok, and more roam the park’s varied habitats. Look out for caracal and rock hyrax, as well as carnivorous residents like the honey badger, Cape fox, yellow mongoose, small grey mongoose, and water mongoose, among others.
Eland amidst the wildflowersBontebok in the coastal dunes
Birding in West Coast NP
It may be hard to believe, but this single destination hosts over a quarter of South Africa’s recorded bird species. With over 250 species documented, the West Coast National Park is a birding haven. Thanks to the mix of ocean, fynbos, and the globally significant Langebaan Lagoon – a Ramsar Site – bird diversity is exceptionally high. Species such as the curlew sandpiper, sanderling, and red knot migrate up to 15,000km from Russia to breed here. With four bird hides to choose from, you’re spoiled for birdwatching opportunities.
Flamingos gathering on the shores of Langebaan Lagoon
The Langebaan Lagoon is a hotspot for observing migratory wader species, especially in summer. In September and March, you can witness these long-distance travellers in various stages of breeding plumage as they arrive or prepare to leave. The Geelbek Hide is the best vantage point for wader viewing, where the rising tide brings the birds closer for spectacular sightings. The park’s diverse fynbos habitat also boasts a wealth of resident bird species, from the southern black korhaan to the vibrant bokmakierie, Cape penduline tit and even species like African marsh and black harrier, making it a true haven for avian enthusiasts.
Geelbek Hide
The coastal islands at the lagoon mouth offer the perfect breeding habitat for coastal birds like Cape gannets, African penguins, cormorants, terns and gulls.
Black oystercatchers along the coastal waters
Things to do
The park’s attractions extend beyond just the Langebaan Lagoon and the ocean, which provides the chance for swimming and water activities. Hiking and nature trails weave through the diverse landscapes, dotted with fragrant fynbos, ideal for those who appreciate the smaller things. Keep an eye out for Cape mountain zebra or the elusive eland. Two trails are open only during flower season and must be booked in advance: the overnight Postberg two-day trail and the 12.9km Steenbok Day Trail. Several shorter trails are also available without prior booking.
Hiking in Postberg
The lagoon is divided into three zones. One remains a protected wilderness area with no access, while the others permit activities – one for non-motorised and the other for motorised vessels and fishing. Cyclists can explore the park both off-road and on tarred roads. A round trip from the gate to Kraalbaai and back spans 70km on tar, while the longest off-road trail stretches 17km.
One of three zones in the lagoon allows for motorised boatingNumerous trails and roads are suitable for cyclists
There are also numerous spots for swimming, including in Kraalbaai. Tucked between sculpted cliffs and the shimmering shallows of Kraalbaai, Preekstoel is a secluded haven of sun, sea, and striking geology. Named after the remarkable rock formation that resembles a preacher’s pulpit (“Preekstoel” in Afrikaans), this hidden gem is perfect for swimming, sunbathing, or simply soaking in the coastal beauty. Even when shared with a few fellow beachgoers, it feels like your own private paradise.
Frolicking in the calm waters of Langebaan Lagoon around Preekstoel
From August to September, the park is also a prime spot for viewing southern right whales along the coast, solidifying its status as a whale-watching destination.
For some of the most breathtaking views in the West Coast NP, head to the Seeberg viewpoint. From this elevated perch, you’ll gaze across the shimmering southern reaches of the Langebaan Lagoon, with sweeping vistas stretching to Table Mountain and the distant Cederberg mountains. The 4.6km trail from the Langebaan Gate to Seeberg is a scenic journey through fynbos-covered slopes, offering plenty of photo-worthy moments along the way. On a clear day, the Atlantic viewpoint near the West Coast Gate is another worthwhile stop, complete with picnic spots and panoramic coastal views.
Seeberg viewpoint
Explore and stay
Considering a longer stay? You can overnight on the lagoon aboard one of the permanently moored Kraalbaai Houseboats. Each has its own charm and amenities, including braai facilities. The largest can accommodate up to 24 people. Prefer to stay on land? SANParks offers five cottages within the park, including two beachfront options, in addition to options available for school and group stays. There are also other privately owned chalet options in the park.
There are various self-catering cottage options available in the park
Whether you’re seeking respite from city life or a deeper connection with South Africa’s stunning natural landscapes, the West Coast National Park delivers an unforgettable experience. Pack your walking shoes, camera, and sense of wonder – and get ready to explore where land and sea converge in a breathtaking celebration of nature.
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is underway. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. Photographer of the Year is held in association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in June 2025.
This is Photographer of the Year 2025 Finalists Gallery 2. To see the other Photographer of the Year Finalists gallery, click here: Gallery 1.
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is underway. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. Photographer of the Year is held in association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in June 2025.
This is Photographer of the Year 2025 Finalists Gallery 1. To see the other Photographer of the Year Finalists gallery, click here: Gallery 2.
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
Top 109 photos + Big 5 AND great apes in 1 safari
Turns out happy hour isn’t just for humans.
In the forests of Guinea-Bissau, wild chimpanzees have been spotted sharing fermented African breadfruit. Motion-triggered cameras caught them passing around naturally alcoholic fruit, and researchers were left wondering: is this bonding behaviour, boozy indulgence, or both?
Chimps rarely share food unless there’s something in it for them, which makes this moment of primate generosity intriguing. Perhaps a little ethanol unlocks not just dopamine, but diplomacy? The so-called “drunken monkey hypothesis” suggests that our ancestors evolved to seek out fermented fruit – riper fruit is higher in sugar – and maybe, just maybe, a bit of social joy came along for the ride. No sign of hangovers yet. Just good company, ripe fruit, and one more curious way we’re not so different from our forest cousins.
And speaking of sharing things that bring us joy: I’m thrilled to announce that we’ve selected the Top 109 photos for Photographer of the Year 2025! Narrowing them down took days of passionate debate among our judges, but the results speak for themselves. These four galleries are visual feasts, not to be missed.
So pour yourself something fruity, and enjoy the show.
Taryn van Jaarsveld – Editor, Africa Geographic
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Story 1 Top 109 – Gallery 1
Photographer of the Year 2025 entries for the Top 109 are here! Enjoy Gallery 1
Story 2 Top 109 – Gallery 2
Submissions for Photographer of the Year 2025 are now closed. Check out Gallery 2
Story 3 Top 109 – Gallery 3
Photographer of the Year 2025 winners will be announced in June. Here’s Gallery 3
Story 4 Top 109 – Gallery 4
Photographer of the Year winners will enjoy a safari to Odzala-Kokoua NP. Check out Gallery 4
This safari flattens three bucket-list items in one epic trip – in one country! From searching for the Big 5 in Akagera NP to the forests of Nyungwe NP for chimpanzees, and Volcanoes NP for mountain gorillas. What more could you ask for? Aside from rare golden monkeys, the Kigali Genocide Memorial and more – which are also on offer during this safari.
Watch unhabituated western lowland gorillas and other shy forest creatures from the comfort of elevated treehouses overlooking forest clearings in Odzala-Kokoua National Park, Congo-Brazzaville. Find gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffalos, bongos, dwarf crocodiles, huge flocks of grey parrots and green pigeons, and other iconic wildlife species that roam the forests, baïs and rivers of Odzala-Kokoua.
Inspiring Africa’s young conservationists
Keen to support a bold and creative conservation initiative that’s protecting wildlife and empowering the next generation? Check out our Collar a Lion Campaign.
This campaign aims to protect lions, and the communities that coexist with them. As part of the efforts to mitigate human-wildlife conflict, the Southern African Conservation Trust (SACT) is bringing conservation to life in rural communities through vibrant comics and posters that teach children and families how to coexist with lions and other free-roaming wildlife. These fun, practical resources are already making waves in schools near protected areas, and with your help, they can reach even more.
By supporting the campaign, you’re helping build a future where lions roam wild and children walk to school safely. It’s a simple, meaningful way to support both wildlife conservation and community resilience.
WATCH: In a bold move to reverse the ecological impact of fencing and habitat fragmentation in the Eastern Cape, South Africa, 42 elephants have been translocated from Addo Elephant National Park’s Main Camp to its Kabouga section. This keystone species will now help revive natural ecosystem processes – opening vegetation, dispersing seeds, and restoring biodiversity. The project marks a vital step toward species-led landscape restoration, reconnecting elephant corridors and reactivating the ecological roles these giants once played across a rejuvenated, expanded wilderness. (04:17) Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is underway. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. Photographer of the Year is held in association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Final judging will take place during the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in June 2025.
This is Gallery 1 of the Top 109. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 109 galleries, click here: Gallery 2; Gallery 3; Gallery 4
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is underway. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. Photographer of the Year is held in association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Final judging will take place during the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in June 2025.
This is Gallery 2 of the Top 109. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 109 galleries, click here: Gallery 1; Gallery 3; Gallery 4
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is underway. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. Photographer of the Year is held in association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Final judging will take place during the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in June 2025.
This is Gallery 3 of the Top 109. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 109 galleries, click here: Gallery 1; Gallery 2; Gallery 4
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is underway. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. Photographer of the Year is held in association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Final judging will take place during the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in June 2025.
This is Gallery 4 of the Top 109. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 109 galleries, click here: Gallery 1; Gallery 2; Gallery 3
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
Ape intimacy decoded + final photos + Vic Falls thrill
The ‘Responsible Travel’ illusion
Self-proclaimed conscious travellers sprinkle their Instagram posts with hashtags like #sustainabletravel and #leaveonlyfootprints, and bathe in the warm glow of virtue. But look closely and you will find that most ‘travel with purpose’ is sterile, vanilla, mass-market mediocrity.
What has a beach resort in a gated compound, a quick bus tour of some ‘local culture’ staged for tourists and your mojito served with a paper straw got to do with protecting wildlife and empowering local people? Nothing. Zero. It’s environmental theatre with room service.
Real responsible travel – holidays that support biodiversity and empower local communities – are often sidelined by holidaymakers because they are less tidy and more complex to arrange. They usually involve staying in smaller lodges rather than big international chains, access via bumpy roads or small planes, and – horror of horrors – no mobile phone reception (Wi-Fi is usually available, albeit slow). Did you know that one of the best ways to travel responsibly is to travel outside the safari high-season months of July to September?
Let’s be brutally honest: mass tourism is a machine that extracts value from nature and people, wraps it in a shiny brochure, and sells it back to tourists with a bow on top. It commodifies cultures and sterilises wild places.
So the next time someone waxes lyrical about responsible travel while sipping a cocktail at a mega-resort that flattened a mangrove forest, call them out. Or better yet, lead by example. Book a trip that supports conservation and empowers local communities. Anything less is just green-tinted tourism.
Those of us pursuing the holy grail of responsible travel are not yet perfect, but we are working on it. Please help us set the standard.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
What’s small, warty, and has been a total mystery until now? Tomopterna banhinensis, a newly described sand frog from Mozambique that slipped under the radar for decades. In the vast mosaic of Africa’s biodiversity, it’s humbling to realise how many puzzle pieces we’ve yet to find – some hiding in plain sight.
The discovery of this new, charming cryptic frog highlights the power of patient science, collaboration, and a sharp eye for tubercles. Morphologically, the frog closely resembles other sand frogs, which is why it went unnoticed until now. Only careful genetic analysis revealed it was something new. Its discovery highlights how many “lookalike” frog species may still be hidden across Africa, which can be unveiled through DNA sequencing. The world is still wilder, and richer, than we can imagine.
Below, we examine how chimps and bonobos use sex to keep the peace. We also bring you the final gallery of new Photographer of the Year 2025 entries. Now, the judging – and fun – begins!
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Story 1 FINAL PHOTOS
Our final week of new entries for Photographer of the Year! Winners will be awarded a safari to incredible Odzala-Kokoua National Park
Story 2 APE SEX
Research reveals bonobos & chimps use sex to resolve tension. Great ape sex offers insight into the evolutionary roots of human intimacy
This safari delivers two of Africa’s most popular safari meccas: the iconic Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, and Chobe – Botswana’s most popular national park. Enjoy an activity every day, from river cruises to game drives, a helicopter flight over Victoria Falls and, for the more adventurous, bungee jumping and river rafting – and so much more!
A 10-day luxury safari escape. Indulge in adventure through the Makgadikgadi Pans, the Okavango Delta, and Moremi Game Reserve. Stay in immersive lodges, enjoy helicopter flights into the heart of the bush, and witness breathtaking wildlife.
WATCH: South Sudan is home to the largest land mammal migration on Earth: the Great Nile Migration. During this migration, an estimated 6 million antelope move north and east across the country towards Gambella National Park in Ethiopia after the seasonal rains. Knowing this has allowed African Parks to amplify the safeguarding of this globally significant landscape and its wildlife, while working together with local communities, to uphold their livelihoods and cultural needs. (06:24) Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is underway. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Final judging will take place during the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in June 2025.
Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week
Could sex be more than just reproduction – for chimps and bonobos too? We’ve long known that physical intimacy in humans can defuse tension, mend rifts, and build bonds. But are we the only primates using pleasure as a peacekeeping tool? New research dives deep into the post-conflict behaviours of our closest relatives, revealing surprising parallels between how humans and the great apes use sex – and a few intriguing differences too. These insights may change the way we see the origins of human sexuality.
Humans often hug, kiss, and touch after arguments. We have long understood that sex is about more than just reproduction. Throughout history and across cultures, it has helped us express intimacy, build stronger bonds, and navigate social power dynamics. However, the question remains: do our closest animal relatives, such as bonobos and chimpanzees, also utilise sex for purposes beyond mere mating? Insights into the sexual lives of our primate cousins could shed fascinating light on the evolutionary origins of this uniquely human trait.
New research published in Royal Society Open Science offers insight into the way these great apes use sex. Researchers from Durham University’s Department of Psychology spent over 1,400 hours observing chimpanzees at the Chimfunshi Wildlife Orphanage Trust in Zambia, and bonobos at the Lola ya Bonobo sanctuary in the Democratic Republic of Congo.
Chimpanzees at Chimfunshi Wildlife Orphanage Trust in Zambia
Lola ya Bonobo houses three groups of bonobos in enclosures that vary in size from 15 to 20 hectares, featuring rainforest, swamp, lake, stream, and open grass areas. Chimfunshi houses four groups of chimpanzees in enclosures ranging from 19 to 77 hectares, set within miombo woodland. Both sanctuaries are home to wild-born individuals, as well as those orphaned and rescued from the pet and bushmeat trades, and animals born within the sanctuaries. In both environments, the animals can roam and forage independently, but a team provides them with fruits and vegetables twice a day.
Lead researcher Jake Brooker explained that they observed spontaneous fights and followed the victims, recording all their social interactions, both with uninvolved group members and with the individuals they had fought. The team also conducted a feeding experiment to create a competitive situation, allowing them to observe how group members behaved when tensions were high.
Bonobos and chimpanzees are valuable to study because they are our closest living relatives. While chimpanzees are often the stars of evolutionary theories, bonobos share around 98.7% of their DNA with humans, just like chimps. There are some key differences between the species. Female coalitions and their sons lead bonobo societies, whereas alpha males and their male allies lead chimpanzee groups.
Bonobos share around 98.7% of their DNA with humans
This backdrop of contrasting social structures fuelled the researchers’ expectations. Bonobos have a reputation as the “make love, not war” apes, so the research team expected to see significant differences between the two species. Brooker noted they expected bonobos to use sexual behaviours, like genital contact, more often after conflicts or during feeding competition. While they knew chimps did this too, they did not expect it to happen as frequently as it did, and the extent of the overlap surprised them.
The study revealed that while bonobos were more likely to use genital contact after conflict, both species showed similar rates of this behaviour before feeding when competition for resources intensified. “We did think male-male chimp pairs might use sex more than other chimp pairs, but the tendencies were still reasonable across all pairs in both species,” says Brooker.
Interestingly, female bonobos and male chimps were more likely to initiate these interactions, hinting at sex-specific roles in social bonding. Female-female bonobo pairs were the most frequent users of sexual behaviours, while it was predominantly male-female pairs in chimps, usually initiated by the males. However, sexual contact occurred across all pairings.
Jack the chimpanzee offers Kenny the chimpanzee reassurance and comfort
What stood out most was how these great apes used genital contact in anticipation of feeding competition. They also found that group differences influenced the frequency of these interactions. While age did not affect this post-fight sexual action in either species, older apes were more likely to initiate sex before feeding. This suggests that it may be a learned behaviour passed down over time.
The researchers believe that these sexual interactions serve a critical social function: conflict resolution and tension reduction. In stressful situations, genital contact can help calm individuals, strengthen bonds, and prevent fights from escalating. This aligns with findings from human research, which indicate that physical intimacy can reduce stress and foster social connections. In bonobos and chimpanzees, sexual contact may serve as a signal of reconciliation or a means to maintain harmony within the group.
The study challenges the idea that only humans use sex for complex social reasons and suggests that this is an ancient primate trait, suggesting that our last common ancestor with these great apes likely used sex for purposes beyond mere reproduction. The researchers argue that the social role of sex is not a uniquely human construct, but rather an ancient and flexible trait passed down through our shared evolutionary lineage.
As scientists continue to unravel the social intricacies of these great apes, their intimate behaviours offer a compelling window into the origins of human sexuality and social dynamics. The secret lives of our primate cousins may hold the key to understanding some of our most fundamental social instincts.
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
Bon Jovi the lion’s tragic end + penultimate pics + Kenya family safari
Bon Jovi is one of many free-roaming male lions that have been killed by humans, either for fun and ego or to protect lives and livelihoods.
I met Bon Jovi in Liuwa Plain – what a magnificent lion! Although from a biological perspective, he was no more special than the other maned craggy males who roam free and ensure genetic diversity. His demise by euthanasia is such a sad indictment on humankind; our expansion at the expense of all else. I don’t blame rural villagers for not wanting dangerous animals roaming their towns and farmlands – that scenario has already played itself out across the Planet, and our species always wins. While I mourn the loss of individuals like Bon Jovi and the creep of our species into every nook and cranny, I also celebrate that Africa has many wild places where these great beasts still thrive.
That said, the social media hysteria and false accusations aimed at the vets, officials, and field rangers who had to perform this horrible task are a concern. The libellous accusations and cut-and-paste alternative solutions smack of hatred, naivety and a deep-seated disconnect with the reality at ground level here in Africa.
Thank you for choosing to absorb the facts as presented by my team and for understanding how complex these situations are. Thank you also for supporting Africa Geographic in our drive to tailor-make responsible safaris where local people benefit significantly and see the benefit of having dangerous wildlife in their neighbourhoods.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
They found them just in time. Dozens upon dozens of vultures, poisoned and barely clinging to life beside an elephant carcass laced with toxic agrochemicals – bait for harvesting body parts for the illegal wildlife trade. What followed in Kruger National Park’s remote Mahlangeni Section this week was a rescue at one of the largest poisoning events seen in the park – with 123 vultures found dead at the scene. SANParks rangers and Endangered Wildlife Trust specialists led the charge, with support from vets and rehabbers, administering atropine, activated charcoal and fluid therapy on site – emergency first aid for birds on the brink.
84 Cape, white-backed and hooded vultures were rescued, carried out by helicopter and vulture ambulance, whisked off to safety under the watch of vets, pilots and volunteers. Against the odds, 83 birds are still alive. Poacher’s poisons are swift. But so too are the responses of those who care. This was conservation at its finest: fast, fierce, and full of heart. To every ranger, vet, pilot and quiet hero behind the scenes – thank you.
Below, we share all the details that led to the famous lion Bon Jovi being euthanised. And we bring you two galleries of the best photos for our penultimate week of entries for Photographer of the Year 2025.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Story 1 BON JOVI EUTHANISED
Famous lion Bon Jovi was euthanised close to a rural village in community-owned land near Zambia’s Kafue NP after reportedly killing cattle
Story 2 PENULTIMATE PICS 1
Photographer of the Year 2025 is now closed for entries! Here are our top photos for Week 12 of the competition – Gallery 1
Story 3 PENULTIMATE PICS 2
Explore Gallery 2 of our Week 12 entries from Photographer of the Year 2025. Winners will be awarded a safari to Odzala-Kokoua
Combine three iconic parks with family fun for everyone. This nine-day family safari to Kenya’s three most iconic destinations is packed with adventure for everyone. Expect an astonishing variety of wildlife encounters, from the Big 5 and Great Wildebeest Migration of the Maasai Mara National Reserve, to huge elephant tuskers in Amboseli National Park and the ‘Samburu Special Five’ – gerenuk, reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, Somali ostrich and beisa oryx.
The perfect bush and beach trifecta. A classic Tanzanian bush and beach safari that immerses you in iconic locations with time-honoured luxury camps. This is an unforgettable 10-day sojourn that blends the untamed beauty of Tanzania’s northern safari circuit with the tranquil allure of its pristine beaches. You’ll journey through Lake Manyara National Park to the awe-inspiring panoramas of the Ngorongoro Crater, the sweeping plains of Serengeti National Park, and the sun-kissed shores of Zanzibar.
Our safari guests say…
Another 5-star review for teamAG! Subrahmanyan enjoyed a first-class Southern African safari:
“Karen, our safari expert from Africa Geographic, was truly exceptional. The itinerary she put together covering South Africa, Zimbabwe and Botswana, was at first-class lodges, and the safari experiences and river cruises were magical. The staff at the lodges and the drivers and trackers made us feel at home.
Our travel started with a 2-day delay thanks to the weather and the cancellation of our flight from New Jersey! Karen was immediately accessible and made the necessary changes almost seamlessly. She prepared detailed documentation for our insurance claim and was available even on the weekend. We would highly recommend Karen and Africa Geographic and will be using their services in a few years when we visit Tanzania, Kenya and Uganda!”
WATCH: June–July marks the beginning of the best wildlife-viewing season in Africa. There is very little rain expected (the dry season prevails), and temperatures are moderate – perfect safari weather. Here’s what you can expect from a June–July safari. (01:37) Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is underway. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Final judging will take place during the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in June 2025.
Here is Gallery 2 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other gallery, follow the link: Gallery 1
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is underway. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Final judging will take place during the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in June 2025.
Here is Gallery 1 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other gallery, follow the link: Gallery 2
Well-known lion Bon Jovi has been darted and euthanised near a rural village in community-owned farmland northwest of Zambia’s Kafue National Park after reportedly killing cattle. He had been relocated two months earlier to Kafue from Liuwa Plain National Park after also killing cattle in neighbouring villages. All information was provided by James Milanzi, Zambia country manager African Parks.
Given his behaviour and deteriorating condition due to the scarcity of natural prey outside Kafue, the decision to euthanise Bon Jovi was made as he posed a threat to both humans and livestock. The operation to dart and humanely euthanise him was performed by a team consisting of vets from Zambia’s Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW), Wildlife Police Officers, and African Parks staff.
Bon Jovi is a son of legendary lioness Queen Sepo – one of the founder population of lions brought in to repopulate Liuwa Plain. Poaching and illegal trophy hunting had eradicated lions from Liuwa Plain National Park in Zambia in the 1990s. Except for one lioness – Lady Liuwa. Lady Liuwa roamed the park on her own for many years –- sometimes seeking the company of humans. Despite being too old to breed, Lady Liuwa headed up the newly established pride until she died of natural causes in 2017. After many setbacks, lions are now flourishing in Liuwa Plain once again, and playing their vital ecosystem roles. Bon Jovi sired many cubs, and his adult sons now rule the plains. He was eight years and seven months old when he died.
The charismatic Bon Jovi was relocated in late February to Kafue from Liuwa Plain after killing cattle in villages bordering the unfenced national park. He was fitted with a GPS collar and closely monitored after his release in Kafue. After spending March roaming the vast unfenced Kafue, in early April he made his way into community farmland northwest of the park, where he resumed killing cattle.
Says James Milanzi, the Zambia country manager African Parks: “African Parks is grateful to DNPW for their support in resolving this unfortunate issue. As humans and wild animals live in closer proximity, the potential for conflict increases and responsible steps must be taken to ensure the safety and livelihoods of local communities. While this particular lion was euthanised due to human-wildlife conflict, the reality is that large protected areas like Kafue are crucial for the survival of Africa’s wild lions. This incident underscores the critical need for the long-term conservation of ecosystems like Kafue, as they provide space for lions to survive. African Parks, in partnership with the DNPW, is committed to ensuring the long-term protection and sustainability of Kafue’s wild lion population.”
African Parks manages Kafue National Park in collaboration with DNPW, and Liuwa Plain National Park in collaboration with DNPW and the Barotse Royal Establishment.
Every now and then, science gets a helping hand from something richer than data: deep, lived knowledge. This week, that knowledge helped identify the world’s first fossilised pangolin trackway, found on South Africa’s Western Cape coast – and confirmed with the help of two Ju/’hoansi San trackers from Namibia.
Not bones, but footprints. Not a skeleton, but a fleeting moment, pressed into sand 120,000 years ago and now preserved in stone. The discovery is groundbreaking – not only for what it tells us about where pangolins once roamed, but for how it was uncovered: through a partnership between scientists and two Indigenous Master Trackers. The discovery confirms that pangolins were once distributed across a larger range than they are now. Stories like this are why we do what we do. Following the faint spoor of the past, we find new reasons to protect what remains.
And speaking of footprints through ancient southern Africa… Namibia’s landscapes don’t just hint at the past, they encapsulate it. Namibia’s deserts, shipwrecked coastlines and contoured dunes are a paradise for photographers. This week, we follow the lens into some of Namibia’s most striking photographic hotspots. See our story below.
We also bring you our latest collection of photos from Photographer of the Year 2025. From baby gorillas in Rwanda to stilt-walkers in Ethiopia, leopards in the Mara to flamingos over Mozambique, this gallery captures rare wildlife moments and cultural traditions – one frame at a time. Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries, but, we still have two more galleries of entries that we will bring you in the next two weeks, consisting of the cascade of photos that we have received in the last few days.
Until next time, follow the tracks, and tread lightly.
Taryn van Jaarsveld – Editor, Africa Geographic
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Story 1 PHOTOGENIC NAMIBIA
Namibia is a photographer’s paradise, and in this post we show you where to go to get the most from your photographic safari
Story 2 INCREDIBLE PHOTOS
Photographer of the Year 2025 is now closed for entries! Here are our top photos for Week 11 of the competition
This safari combines the adventure of a Big 5 Zululand safari with the warm waters and white sandy beaches of the KwaZulu-Natal coastline. Expect 5-star treatment all the way. From a luxury tented camp in a riverine forest on the Msunduze River in Manyoni Private Game Reserve, to luxurious living in a boutique beach guest house, this safari is a real treat. Enjoy exciting game drives, spa treatments, delicious dining under the stars, ocean swimming, and snorkelling.
Discover the Big 5, cheetahs and wild dogs of Majete Wildlife Reserve and its conservation successes, before unwinding on Lake Malawi’s tranquil white sand beaches and enjoying the water activities on offer. Seamlessly transition between these stunning locations for the perfect combo safari.
WATCH: Liwonde National Park, Malawi, offers some of the best river-based viewing in Africa of elephants, crocodiles and hippos. The park stretches along the banks of the Shire River – just south of Lake Malombe and Lake Malawi. Verdant landscapes consist of riverine floodplains, woodlands, and arid savannahs. This is a great comeback story of how a sustainable Big-5 safari destination was reclaimed from a poached wasteland. (0:36) Click here to watch
Namibia continues to feature prominently on the must-visit list for passionate nature photographers – and for good reason. Expansive landscapes, untouched wilderness, and a rich diversity of wildlife (including the Big 5) make this southern African gem a dream destination for anyone eager to capture wild nature at its finest. That said, a few key elements can make or break your photographic journey, chief among them being knowing where to go.
Take your time
Namibia is vast – truly vast – and packed with photographic gems. Attempting to cover all the highlights in one whirlwind safari trip to Namibia may be challenging. Doing justice to the country’s visual potential takes time and intention. In fact, even a few weeks will barely scratch the surface.
We recommend selecting a handful of your favourite photographic hotspots, planning a trip of at least three weeks, and staying a minimum of three nights at each location. This gives you the freedom to return to promising spots in different light, explore hidden corners, and fully absorb the essence of each destination.
A word of advice: Namibia’s gravel roads, while scenic, can be slow going – often corrugated and rough. Allow plenty of time between destinations so you’re not racing the sun to your next overnight stop. After all, you’ll want to be camera-ready for golden hour, not stuck in a dusty car rushing to check in.
These iconic aloes thrive in Namibia’s arid, rocky terrain. Nowhere are they more striking than at the Quiver Tree Forest, where their golden-brown bark and sculptural forms glow in the early morning and late afternoon light.
This surreal grove allows photographers to capture bold silhouettes against richly coloured desert skies – especially rewarding at sunrise or sunset.
The Fish River Canyon is the second-largest canyon in the world – a geological marvel that impresses with its vast scale, rugged formations, and raw remoteness. It’s a paradise for photographers, hikers and nature lovers.
The best time to photograph this dramatic landscape is at dusk, when the canyon walls come alive in soft, glowing hues as the sun dips low on the horizon. Plan your visit during the cooler months (May to September) to avoid extreme temperatures.
Fish River Canyon
NAMIBRAND NATURE RESERVE, Southern Namibia
One of the largest private nature reserves in Namibia, NamibRand is a mosaic of red dunes, gravel plains, and rugged desert mountains. It’s also home to healthy populations of gemsbok, Hartmann’s mountain zebra, springbok, and ostrich.
The sheer scale, silence and diversity of NamibRand make it a haven for photographers in search of Namibia’s quieter, more textured moods. Look out for golden light rolling over grassy plains and the chance to capture wildlife in wide, cinematic landscapes.
While floodwater in the pan is a rare sight, occurring only every few years and highly unpredictable, the area’s dry beauty is more than enough to keep your shutter clicking.
A brown hyena in SossusvleiTraversing Sossusvlei’s dunes
DEADVLEI, near Sossusvlei
Once a hidden gem, Deadvlei has become one of Namibia’s most iconic photo destinations in the Sossusvlei region. Here, the blackened skeletons of long-dead camel thorn trees rise from a chalk-white pan, framed by some of the highest dunes on Earth.
The stark contrast and haunting stillness make for an unforgettable photographic experience. Visit early in the morning or late afternoon to make the most of long shadows and dramatic light.
Deadvlei’s skeletal trees make for incredible photo subjects. (Check out more pics from Christopher Scott here)
Skeleton Coast National Park, North Atlantic Coast
Bleak, beautiful, and otherworldly, the Skeleton Coast stretches along Namibia’s remote northwestern coast. This realm of shifting dunes, shipwrecks, salt pans and sea mist offers wonderful photographic opportunities. Despite its desolate appearance, this coastal desert teems with life for those who know where to look. Here, jackals leave delicate tracks on the sand, rusty and long-abandoned ships decay into surreal sculptures, and desert-adapted lions roam the dunes in search of seals and scavenging opportunities. For photographers, the interplay of texture, light, and isolation offers a truly unique experience.
Desert-adapted lions on the Skeleton Coast
Spitzkoppe, Damaraland
Often dubbed the “Matterhorn of Namibia,” Spitzkoppe rises like a forgotten relic from the flat gravel plains of Damaraland. This ancient granite outcrop was once a sanctuary for the San (Bushmen), drawn here by abundant game, fresh spring water, and sheltering caves adorned with rock art.
Today, the stark beauty and sculptural drama of Spitzkoppe’s towering boulders continue to enchant photographers and travellers alike. The golden glow of sunrise and sunset paints the rocks in rich hues, while the crystal-clear desert night sky invites long-exposure stargazing beneath natural rock arches.
Situated along Namibia’s dramatic Skeleton Coast, Cape Cross Seal Reserve is home to one of the largest Cape fur seal colonies on Earth. Here, tens of thousands of seals haul out along the Atlantic shore, forming a chaotic but captivating spectacle.
Photographers can get surprisingly close to these marine mammals, capturing intimate moments of pups nursing, bulls posturing, and families lazing in the coastal sun. While the scent can be overwhelming, the photographic opportunities are unrivalled.
A Cape fur seal at Cape CrossBlack-backed jackals devour a seal carcass at Cape Cross
Etosha National Park, Northern Namibia
Etosha is Namibia’s premier wildlife photography destination – and with good reason. The animals here are habituated to vehicles, allowing for close encounters and compelling photographic moments ranging from intimate portraits to sweeping scenes of herds traversing the shimmering pan.
During the dry season, wildlife gathers at Etosha’s many waterholes, making it one of the best places in Africa to photograph multi-species interactions. Expect to see elephants, rhinos, lions, hyenas, cheetahs and, if you’re lucky, a leopard or two. The diversity of plains game – springbok, wildebeest, kudu, zebra, gemsbok – is complemented by over 400 bird species, making Etosha a year-round draw for photographers and birders alike.
Etosha offers incredible wildlife viewingMasses of wildlife gather at Etosha’s pans
Hoanib River Valley, Kaokoland
Winding through the rugged desert mountains of remote Kaokoland in northwestern Namibia, the Hoanib River is a predominantly dry watercourse that flows only during rare periods of substantial rainfall. Despite its arid nature, it supports a surprising array of desert-adapted wildlife, including elephant, lion, giraffe, gemsbok, and more.
Photographers will find inspiration in the contrast between life and desolation – towering white-trunked ana trees rising from the fog, gemsbok silhouetted against burnt-orange sands, and elephants navigating the dry riverbed in search of water.
The Hoanib’s moods shift with the seasons: blisteringly harsh in mid-summer, but touched by an eerie beauty during foggy winter mornings, when moisture from the Atlantic creeps inland.
A desert-adapted elephant in Hoanib Valley
Epupa Falls, Kaokoland
On the border with Angola, far in the remote reaches of Kaokoland, the Kunene River spills over a series of rocky ledges to create the cascading Epupa Falls – one of Namibia’s hidden gems.
Here, ancient baobabs cling to rocky outcrops above the white spray, while palm-lined banks frame the river. The setting is a tranquil contrast to the surrounding arid land, and the photographic opportunities are rich: dreamy long-exposure waterfall shots, golden-hour baobabs, and cultural encounters with Himba communities who live nearby.
Epupa Falls in the incredible glow of the sun peaking out of the horizon
Mahango Game Reserve, Zambezi Region, Northern Namibia
Tucked in Namibia’s lush northeast, where the Okavango River crosses into Botswana, Mahango Game Reserve is a verdant outlier in this largely arid country. The reserve forms part of the Bwabwata National Park and is a haven for wildlife and birds – an essential stop for nature photographers exploring the Zambezi Region.
Here you’ll find riverine forests, reed-fringed marshes, and wide floodplains that support large herds of elephant, buffalo, hippo and a variety of rare antelope species such as roan, sable and sitatunga. Over 450 bird species have been recorded in the area – from fish eagles and kingfishers to the elusive Pel’s fishing owl – offering rich rewards for patient photographers.
Red lechwes in MahangoA lone Cape buffalo bull in Mahango
Final thoughts
Namibia rewards patience, curiosity, and a keen eye. Rather than rushing between locations, settle in and allow each landscape to reveal its secrets over time. Whether you’re chasing the soft pinks of dawn or the shadows of ancient trees, Namibia offers a photographer’s paradise – one frame at a time.
Western Namibia is a land of heat, sand, sea and remarkable biodiversity surviving against the backdrop of harsh but stunning scenery. Learn more about the land of ochre here
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is open for submissions. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2025 to midnight on 30 April 2025. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in early June 2025.
Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week
Do you remember ‘My Octopus Teacher’ – the documentary that created a tsunami of realisation that octopodes are special beings worthy of our respect? Well, hold onto your false teeth because ‘Pangolin: Kulu’s Journey’ on Netflix will blow your socks off. Trust me. Scroll down to our video of the week for more info.
It’s almost time for the prime safari season when tourists visit Africa’s special places in large numbers to enjoy the awesomeness. It’s no secret that the national parks and reserves away from private concessions become over-crowded – from Maasai Mara and the Serengeti to Kruger, Chobe, Etosha and Khwai. At that time of year, we see too many vehicles, poor behaviour (by tourists and guides) and harassment of wildlife. The convergence of self-drivers, large hotels/lodges, overland and mobile safari operators, and day visit operators is too much for our wild places.
Our tailor-made safaris avoid these areas during the silly season, and if our guests want to be there to see the Mara River crossings, for example, we ensure that the rest of their safari, away from those epic events, is quiet and peaceful. AND, of course, our lodge partners and their guides conduct themselves impeccably (or they get it in the neck from us).
This peak season overcrowding is a conundrum for the safari industry, which we must solve. You can help by working with my travel experts to design your safari to be responsible and spectacular. This is certainly achievable with the right advice and guidance…
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
When ants become contraband, you know biodiversity is in trouble. Forget rhino horn: Kenya’s latest wildlife trafficking bust involved thousands of rare queen ants, smuggled in modified syringes and test tubes through Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta International Airport. Their destination? The exotic pet trade in Europe and Asia.
It sounds absurd. And, let’s consider the implications. Wildlife crime is evolving. Traffickers are exploiting global courier networks and niche markets, targeting even the tiniest, most obscure species. Nothing is safe. Fortunately, authorities are catching up. The Kenya Wildlife Service has called this case a landmark in the fight against biopiracy – not just for stopping the smuggling, but for drawing attention to the urgent need to protect genetic resources, no matter their size.
You can check out other incredible ants in this week’s Photographer of the Year galleries – plus more. From eccentric chameleons to deadly zebra crossings, two super tuskers and striking gorillas, this week’s photo galleries bring you more wild and wondrous Africa. Plus, we bring you a guide on Ethiopia’s Simien Mountains National Park, which offers a cornucopia of experiences, including otherworldy creatures, a spectacular massif and sweeping valleys. Check out these stories below.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Story 1 SIMIEN MOUNTAINS
Simien Mountain National Park in Ethiopia offers a cornucopia of experiences – Simien wolves, endemic ibex, geladas and breathtaking trekking
Story 2 EPIC PICS 1
Our Week 10 entries are in! Check out Gallery 1 of the latest pics. Enter to win a safari to Odzala-Kokoua
Story 3 EPIC PICS 2
Week 10 of Photographer of the Year is here! Explore Gallery 2 & enter to win a trip to Odzala-Kokoua
Omo Valley is one of Ethiopia’s most fascinating melting pots of tribal diversity. This eight-day cultural experience will offer you the unique opportunity to learn about the ancient customs and practices of Ethiopia’s indigenous tribes. Join us and experience the wonders of this extraordinary region and its fascinating people.
Here are your front-row seats to the Greatest Show on Earth. You’ll experience the Wildebeest Migration in Kenya from the banks of the Mara River inside the Maasai Mara National Reserve. Sentinel Mara Camp is perched on the river’s high banks in a cool riverine forest. You’ll also explore Musiara Marsh and Paradise Plains – known for their excellent big cat sightings.
Another 5-star review for teamAG! Colin enjoyed a birding bonanza safari to Amboseli in Kenya:
“Christian from Africa Geographic organised a 5-day bird-hide session near Amboseli National Park, specifically to photograph a number of waxbill species. The hide was basic (I was told this in advance) but the number and species that visited the hide were remarkable and all target species – and more – were photographed. Nearby Sentrim Amboseli was fantastic and an excellent choice!” – Colin Roberts
WATCH: A man finds new purpose when he helps rescue a baby pangolin – one of the most trafficked animals in the world – in a sting operation in South Africa. He embarks on a heartfelt mission to rehabilitate and prepare the vulnerable animal for a life of freedom in the wild. From the director of My Octopus Teacher comes Pangolin: Kulu’s Journey, an exploration of the connection between humans and the creatures we share our world with. Check out the trailer for this new documentary. (02:24) Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is open for submissions. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2025 to midnight on 30 April 2025. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in early June 2025.
Here is Gallery 2 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other gallery, follow the link: Gallery 1
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is open for submissions. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2025 to midnight on 30 April 2025. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in early June 2025.
Here is Gallery 1 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other gallery, follow the link: Gallery 2
In Africa, there exists a landscape that would not be out of place in a Sir Arthur Conan Doyle or Michael Crichton novel about lost worlds. A spectacular massif where sharp crags and cliffs plunge into sweeping valleys – the jarring angles and jagged ridges softened by a gentle palette of brown, green and amber. Though the terrible lizards of science fiction are absent, the atmosphere is primal, and the fauna and flora of Simien Mountains National Park in Ethiopia are no less otherworldly.
Trekking through the Simien Mountains offers the chance to come face to face with some of the continent’s most unique creatures, including Africa’s most endangered carnivore – the Ethiopian wolf, the sure-footed endemic ibex, primates that wear their hearts on their sleeves (well, chests) and thieving thick-billed ravens.
Simien Mountains NP and the Ethiopian Highlands
Increasing numbers of people are discovering the joys of Ethiopian travel, and exploring the Simien Mountains National Park is at the top of most lists. The 220km2 (220,000-hectare) park – a World Heritage Site – was established in 1966 and zigzags across the Simien Mountain Range in northern Ethiopia.
A number of trekking routes are available for the more adventurous traveller seeking to visit some of Africa’s highest peaks
These mountains are as ancient as they look and predate the formation of Africa’s Great Rift Valley by some 30 million years. They had their beginnings 75 million years ago during the Cretaceous period when dinosaurs really did rule the land. As continents very slowly shifted, magma built up beneath a dome of rocks, forcing it upwards into what is now the Ethiopian Highlands (most of which sits above 1,500m) – home to 80% of Africa’s tallest mountains. A series of volcanic eruptions during the Oligocene period deposited a basaltic lava layer between 3,000 and 3,500m thick, leaving behind the remnants of a shield volcano across much of what is now the Simien Mountains.
This primordial havoc created a landscape of breathtaking beauty. For most people, the astonishing scenery is the park’s biggest drawcard (and is probably responsible for several twisted ankles on rocky paths). The popular (and surprisingly accessible) trekking routes are designed to make the most of the views. They include trails to the peaks of Ras Dashen (4,550m – the highest mountain in Ethiopia) and Mount Bwahit (4,437m), with various lookout spots along the way, including a view of the Jinbar Falls. The peaks Imet Gogo (3,926m) and Inateye (4,070m) can also be reached on foot.
A Rüppell’s griffon vulture soars past the Jinbar Falls
Unlike most African national parks, Simien Mountains National Park has not excluded local inhabitants, so expect to see cultivated land and rural communities dotted throughout. Increasing human populations have put parts of the park under severe pressure, and projects are underway to mitigate these effects.
Wild inhabitants
Naturally, the high altitudes (something to consider when planning hikes in the area) and isolation of the mountain range have led to a high degree of endemism. The park’s resident Walia ibex (Capra walie) is perhaps the most well-known example. This stocky and powerful member of the goat family is found only in the mountains of Ethiopia. Once critically endangered and one of the most threatened mammals in the world, their numbers have recovered to just under 1,000 at last estimate. Far from the average farmyard billy goat, these imposing animals can weigh over 100kg and sport large, backwards-curving horns that grow up to a meter in length.
The majestic Walia ibex
The Simien Mountains are also home to the endangered Simien (Ethiopian) wolf, though sightings of these sleek red canids are still relatively rare, and they are often seen at a distance. The Simien wolf is found only in a handful of isolated mountain ranges in Ethiopia, with the largest subpopulation located in the Bale Mountains, further south.
The “lowlands” of the Simien Mountains (which are still around 2,000m above sea level) are also populated by jackals, bushbucks, bushpigs and even elusive servals and leopards.
An Ethiopian wolf hunts for giant mole rats
Gambolling geladas
Of all the varied and unusual wildlife offerings on the Simien Mountains, the coiffed geladas are the stars of the show. These endemic primates are sometimes referred to as bleeding-heart monkeys or, incorrectly, as gelada baboons, and are found only in the Ethiopian Highlands. Though morphologically quite similar to baboons, the gelada is the last surviving member of the Teropithecus genus and the only primate that is primarily a graminivore (grazer). The large populations found in the park have become entirely accustomed to the presence of gawking hikers, allowing fascinated visitors a genuinely intimate glimpse into their day-to-day lives.
A male gelada on the move poses a threatening sight
The gelada’s almost uncanny ability to strike a pose (against the backdrop of the jaw-dropping scenery) has also made them a firm favourite with photographers. Sporting hairstyles that would make Tina Turner long for the 80s, the geladas are well protected against the biting cold of the high altitudes. To complete the oddball look, a bright band of bare crimson skin cuts across their necks and chests and serves a similar function to the multicoloured perineum of other primate species.
Like baboons, geladas are intelligent and socialable, so their group dynamics are endlessly entertaining. As the adults graze, groom or slumber (or perhaps, make eyes at each other), youngsters of various ages gambol energetically through the heather, occasionally prompting one of the large males to display enormous canine teeth in a brief warning. (For an entertaining account of Africa Geographic senior safari consultant Christian Boix’s encounter with a very forward gelada, have a look here.)
The alpha male views his kingdom
Astonishing biodiversity of the Simien Mountains
If the landscape sets the prehistoric tone, then the vegetation completes the picture. The Montane forest zone at the base of the mountains gives way to the Ericaceous belt (or sub-Afroalpine zone), which is replaced by the Afro-alpine zone. Bizarre-looking giant lobelias dot the landscape, while red-hot poker plants, the Abyssinian white roses and white everlastings add splashes of colour.
Fascinating, untouched flora awaits visitors to the Simien Mountains
So ancient is the landscape that one might be forgiven for expecting a pterodactyl to come soaring out of the abyss at some of the viewpoints. This is unlikely, but eager birders will still be rewarded with exciting and intriguing birding opportunities. The chasms and gorges offer some of the best bearded-vulture viewing in the world. The massive and striking birds are regularly spotted scouring the cliff faces for food. The vultures are known to drop bones or unfortunate tortoises from a great height, shattering them on the rocks below. (Incidentally, the Greek playwright Aeschylus was supposedly killed by a misdirected tortoise dropped by a bearded vulture – so watch your head!)
Over 180 bird species have been recorded in the park, of which five are endemic to Ethiopia and another 12 to Ethiopia and Eritrea. These include a small population of red-billed chough living on the Gich plateau, the Abyssinian catbird, Abyssinian longclaw, Ankober serin, and black-headed siskin. It is, however, possible that the thrill of seeing the near-endemic thick-billed raven may wear thin after one has stolen the second or third snack of the trip…
A Walia ibex rests, gazing over the valley below
A walk in the park
Travel to the Simien Mountains is normally by road from Addis Ababa and should include a stop in Gondar. The city is home to the Fasil Ghebbi, a walled fortress and palace compound which was once the seat of Ethiopian emperors. The fortress is dominated by a massive castle that belonged to Emperor Fasilides in the 17th century. The architecture is a combination of Portuguese, Indian and local designs.
Grazing livestock on the slopes of the mountains
While some of the more spectacular parts of the mountains can be accessed by vehicle, most visitors prefer to explore the trails on foot. Trekking is usually done over a few days, with nights spent camping at one of the nine campsites spread throughout the park (three main campsites within the national park, and six further afield). These consist of basic facilities. Visitors organising their hikes must first visit the park headquarters in Debark to pay their fees, secure the necessary permits, and meet with their park scout. All hikers must be accompanied by a trained and armed park scout while in the park. A trained guide is also recommended for first-time visitors looking to learn more about the fascinating natural history of the region.
Hiking a calm leg of one of the Simien Mountains trails
Getting to the Simien Mountains
There are lodges in the mountains that serve as good bases for acclimatising to the altitude or perhaps for a day or two of rest after trekking the park’s many trails. Chat to our safari experts about planning a trip there, and they’ll help plot the best course of action.
It is worth mentioning that the altitude is extreme for some visitors. It is essential to factor in an additional day or more for those particularly sensitive to its effects. The lodges will also be able to provide guides, pack animals, and provisions for more intrepid adventurers. Other organisations will also aid in organising a trek, but caution is needed as opportunistic scam artists are looking to capitalise on travellers cutting costs.
The trekking campsites in the park close down during the rainy season from June to August, when the park is largely inaccessible. However, the months following the rains are arguably the best time to visit, when the park is verdant, and the streams and rivers flow. The drier months of December until April are warmer, but the views are less spectacular and somewhat hazy, while the Jinbar Waterfall dries up to a trickle. At over 3,500m, the nights are cold and the mornings frosty – be prepared with the appropriate clothing and equipment. Malaria incidents are rare at these altitudes, but precautions must be taken when travelling through the lower and more densely populated cities and towns.
Rolling hills as far as the eye can see
A natural highlight
In Ethiopia, a country bursting with ancient marvels, the Simien Mountains are a natural highlight – a place to immerse yourself in resplendent scenery and revel in the extraordinary and outlandish plants and animals that live there.
Further reading:
Ethiopia is a fascinating country. Only discovered by cultural and wildlife tourists in recent decades, it is one of three countries in the world that has never been colonised. Discover Ethiopia through a visual journey
The Ethiopian wolf is the most endangered carnivore in Africa. Found only in the Ethiopian Highlands, they are threatened by habitat loss. Read about the Ethiopian wolf here
The trend to ‘de-extinct’ species is a waste of time and money. The latest example involves heralded but fake claims that the massive dire wolf (of Game of Thrones fame) had been brought back from extinction. What these lab-dwellers have actually done is genetically edit gray wolf with a few dire wolf-like traits. In the words of paleoecologist Jacquelyn Gill, as quoted in Scientific American, ‘This is a designer dog.’ What, exactly, is the point of putting so much effort and money into manufacturing a fake species when actual, extant gray wolves (all wolf species, actually) are being vilified, hunted, trapped, and poisoned over much of their range? There are more ‘zombie conservation’ examples – but I have run out of space.
Contrast that with our Photographer of the Year galleries below. Each year, we are knocked back by the quality of photos submitted, and this year again boasts a spectacular crop. We are in the final weeks of the entry submission period, so if you have been dallying, it’s time to send in your entries. The winners get to join my team on an epic journey of discovery into Odzala-Kokoua National Park in Congo-Brazzaville (not the troubled DRC). If the thought of lowland gorilla, forest elephant and bongo does not excite you, how about Demidoff’s galago, palm civet, Congo clawless otter, Hartlaub’s duck and Nkulengu rail?
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
They may not inspire postcards, but vultures are proving to be some of Southern Africa’s most valuable ecological assets. A new BirdLife report states that vultures are worth up to $1.8 billion a year to Southern Africa’s economy. That figure stems from their ecosystem services: clearing carcasses, preventing the spread of disease, flagging poaching activity, and keeping things tidy in the bush. And yet, vultures remain among the most threatened bird groups on the continent. The report highlights the monetary risks of ignoring the birds’ decline. As expert carcass decimators, they’re doing the work most of us would rather not think about. Conservation isn’t just about saving species – it’s about safeguarding the invisible systems that sustain us all.
7 dramatic kills, 14 moments of serenity, 6 chaotic captures, 7 babies, and plenty more – that’s what you’ll find in this week’s Photographer of the Year galleries – see our two galleries below. Plus, we take a look into Timbavati’s trophy hunting policies, annual offtakes and conservation funding, and ask the question – is trophy hunting a sustainable complement to photo tourism in the reserve? The latest story in our Decoding Hunting series.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Story 1 SHOOTING FOR SUSTAINABILITY
Can regulated trophy hunting support conservation in a modern reserve reliant on tourism? We explore the case of Timbavati
Story 2 STUNNING PHOTOS – GALLERY 1
Our Week 9 entries are in! Check out Gallery 1 of the latest top pics. Enter to win a safari to Odzala-Kokoua
Story 3 STUNNING PHOTOS – GALLERY 2
Week 9 of Photographer of the Year is live! Click to explore Gallery 2 & enter to win a trip to Odzala-Kokoua
Dreaming of visiting South Africa? Enjoy this iconic bush & beach safari – the best that South Africa has to offer. Be swept off your feet with wall-to-wall wildlife action – with exceptional Greater Kruger Big 5 game viewing. This safari also includes a full-day road trip taking in the stunning scenery and cultural delights of the Lowveld. And then, head on to vibey, sophisticated Cape Town & the nearby winelands.
This best-of-Malawi safari takes you to the Big 5 havens of Majete Wildlife Reserve, Liwonde National Park and the rugged wilderness of Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve. The three parks are managed by African Parks – a non-profit conservation organisation. These conservation success stories are what responsible travel is all about. Come and find out for yourself and make a real difference where it counts.
Colleen embarked on a Rwandan adventure with AG: “Exceptional trip with all details meticulously taken care of. From the airport pickup and drop-off, to transport and accommodation and guides, all was taken care of. I am a keen birder, but my travel partner was not keen on doing any birding. But Christian organised separate activities so we both could get the most out of our trip.
We started off with 3 days in Nyungwe NP, and all I can say is that it made me want to go again and stay longer. After Nyungwe, we were whisked to Akagera NP. Travel time was taken into consideration with coffee and bathroom breaks, and we still managed to reach Akagera in time for a sunset boat cruise. Both Nyungwe and Akagera are great spots for nature lovers.
This is my second trip arranged through AG, and everything was organised very efficiently. Christian was easy to approach with many questions beforehand, and he understood what I wanted. He arranged excellent local guides to get the most from our short trip to this beautiful country. I will definitely approach AG for future Africa trips. As a female and often solo traveller, it takes away any concerns about logistics, finding good guides, transport, and accommodation. I’ve used other agents before, but for future trips, I will not look any further than AG.”
WATCH: In the fight against illegal wildlife trafficking, an unexpected hero has emerged – the African giant pouched rat. Scientists in Tanzania are training these rodents to detect hidden contraband like pangolin scales, rhino horns, and ivory in shipments passing through ports and airports. These giant rats could revolutionise anti-trafficking efforts with their extraordinary sense of smell and problem-solving abilities. (06:55) Click here to watch
Trophy hunting is one of the most polarising topics in conservation. Supporters argue that, when properly regulated, hunting can generate funding for wildlife reserves, support anti-poaching efforts, and contribute to habitat preservation. Opponents say it threatens biodiversity, disrupts ecosystems, and undermines non-consumptive tourism models. But where does the truth lie? Is trophy hunting a necessary evil, a beneficial conservation tool, or an outdated practice needing reform? To explore this debate, we turn to Timbavati Private Nature Reserve (TPNR), a key component of the Greater Kruger ecosystem in South Africa.
Unlike state-protected areas, Timbavati receives no government funding. The reserve relies on a mixed funding model that includes photographic tourism and regulated hunting. Africa Geographic has been engaging with Timbavati management to ask difficult questions about its trophy hunting policies and offtakes. Timbavati, in response, has supplied detailed information on their hunting offtakes and feedback on their current policies and philosophies.
In the case of Timbavati, it is essential to position this debate within the broader context of the Greater Kruger ecosystem, which operates as an interconnected social-ecological system. The discussion around hunting is not merely about ethics, but about balancing conservation, community needs, economic stability, and sustainable land use.
A crucial contextual note is that TPNR is distinct from the lodges in the reserve. Timbavati consists of privately owned properties whose owners have agreed to collaborate by removing fences to allow wildlife to roam freely. Some landowners operate lodges on their land subject to Timbavati regulations. Other landowners have no lodges on their land, and some have leased their land to third parties to build and manage lodges – again, subject to Timbavati regulations. The landowners pay levies to TPNR, and lodges pay Timbavati fees for every tourist visiting the reserve. The TPNR is responsible for managing the reserve in accordance with Kruger National Park regulations (as it forms part of the Greater Kruger open system), maintaining infrastructure and preventing poaching (their most significant cost). Landowner levies, tourism bed-night fees and trophy hunting fund Timbavati.
Timbavati offers a valuable case study for assessing whether trophy hunting can be a viable tool for long-term conservation. In this article, we analyse Timbavati’s financial model, hunting quotas, and ecological impact for the 2023/2024 period – and ask the ultimate question: is the reserve’s approach to hunting sustainable, or should conservation funding be secured through alternative means?
The role of trophy hunting in Timbavati’s revenue model
Timbavati faces the ongoing challenge of securing sustainable funding for conservation. Unlike national parks, Timbavati doesn’t receive any government contribution and must generate its own revenue to finance operations. The reserve relies on two main funding streams: photographic tourism and trophy hunting. While photographic tourism contributes most of Timbavati’s budget, and Timbavati is a popular Big-5 safari destination, trophy hunting has historically been a financially significant – yet controversial – element of the reserve’s financial model.
“The Greater Kruger area is a mosaic of values held by diverse stakeholders, including private landowners, local communities, conservation authorities, and tourism operators,” says Edwin Pierce, warden of Timbavati. “These stakeholders hold different perspectives on wildlife management and land use. TPNR’s model reflects this diversity, maintaining a balanced approach between photographic tourism and regulated hunting. Many landowners within the reserve express valid concerns about over-reliance on tourism revenue, fearing that it could lead to over-tourism issues similar to those observed in East Africa. Trophy hunting, when carefully regulated, thus serves as a complementary economic activity that mitigates economic vulnerability and the risks associated with tourism saturation.”
Within one year between 2023 and 2024, photographic tourism contributed over 70% of the reserve’s budget, with conservation levies paid by tourists ranging from R510 to R575 per person per night. Over the same period, 28 commercial hunters accounted for about 8% of the total income. The question, however, is whether this reliance on hunting remains ecologically and financially viable.
“The complexities of managing a large private nature reserve increase daily,” says an article on Timbavati’s sustainability approach. “A good example of this is the relentless challenge we face in dealing with rhino poaching. In our reserve alone, the costs for security and anti-poaching have escalated by a staggering 900% in the last 6 years, taking up 63% of our annual operating budget…. And while we fight against organised crime and illegal wildlife trade, other serious challenges need to be faced – like integrating the Greater Kruger wilderness and surrounding communities in ways that are sustainable and that reduce the risk of protected area fragmentation.”
Where does hunting revenue go?
Managing a private reserve is a costly endeavour. Conservation funding covers anti-poaching efforts (which alone consume 63% of the annual budget), habitat management, staff salaries, infrastructure maintenance, and ecological monitoring.
In the case of trophy hunting, as with all other revenue generated, revenue goes towards community engagement, anti-poaching initiatives, and reserve management. Regulated hunting also aligns with the Greater Kruger Hunting Protocol, which intends to ensure that hunting practices do not negatively impact the sustainability of a particular species.
Analysing the numbers: lion, elephant, and buffalo
Timbavati adheres to strict quotas when it comes to hunting offtake. In the 2023/2024 hunting season, out of 87 animals approved for hunting by provincial authorities, 60 were hunted, amounting to less than 0.43% of the reserve’s total wildlife population. In the breakdown of species hunted, Cape buffalo made up 42% of the total, while no elephants were hunted due to ongoing CITES-related restrictions on trophy exports. Other animals trophy hunted included hippos, kudu, impala, warthog, waterbuck, giraffe, blue wildebeest, Burchell’s zebra, nyala and spotted hyena.
Buffalo: A 2022 population study estimated that there were 1,106 buffalo in the reserve at the time. The recommended offtake was 25 individuals, including 15 bulls and 10 reproductive-aged cows. This represents 2.3% of the total population.
Elephant: No hunting offtake of elephants happened during the 2023/2024 period, although Timbavati did request permission to hunt bulls. The reserve continues to monitor elephant populations closely.
Lion: There is no specific mention of lion quotas in the most recent data, and Timbavati did not request permission to hunt any lions. Lion hunting remains a contentious issue within the broader Greater Kruger conservation landscape.
Hunting offtake details: age and trophy specifications
Details regarding approved and actual hunting offtake provide clues into the reserve’s approach to sustainable utilisation. No elephant bulls were hunted due to CITES restrictions, but quotas had been allocated for specific age classes based on tusk size per side. On the other hand, Cape buffalo hunting followed trophy measurement guidelines based on population insights obtained through annual surveys.
“Annually, a detailed Cape buffalo population assessment is conducted within the Timbavati,” explains Pierce. This systematic population assessment includes aerial surveys and ground-based observations, assessing physical characteristics such as horn size and body condition, which correlate with age classes.
“Cape buffalo herds are located daily within predetermined sections of the TPNR with a fixed-wing aircraft during the survey period. This systematic way of locating herds and individuals ensured a total coverage of the TPNR during the survey,” says Pierce. A total of 841 buffalo were aged and sexed during the demographic study.
80 out of 252 bulls aged 6 years and older within the sampled population were categorised for potential hunting. Therefore, 31.7% of bulls aged 6 years and older within the sampled population were classified according to the categories within the Greater Kruger Hunting Protocol:
Buffalo bull < 34 inches: 29 individuals (36.2% of the sampled population)
Buffalo bull < 38 inches: 39 individuals (48.8%)
Buffalo bull unlimited: 12 individuals (15%)
Based on these demographics, the recommended offtake included 10 bulls with horn spreads under 34 inches, four bulls under 38 inches, and one bull classified as unlimited. Timbavati says that this approach ensures that older, non-reproductive bulls are primarily selected, minimising genetic disruption within herds:
Buffalo bull < 34 inches: 10 individuals
Buffalo bull < 38 inches: 4 individuals
Buffalo bull unlimited: 1 individual
However, limited direct evidence addresses the genetic impact of selectively hunting older, non-reproductive bulls. One study examining the effects of trophy hunting on Cape buffalo horn size and population structure concludes that there were no apparent effects on horn spread or population dynamics. However, the study warns that while hunting pressures in Greater Kruger are not high enough to affect horn spread, more liberal hunting regulations may lead to artificial selection against smaller horn spreads occurring.
“The selection of older, non-reproductive bulls is guided by the Greater Kruger Hunting Protocol, ensuring that genetic diversity and population stability are preserved,” says Pierce. “While there is limited peer-reviewed data specifically on Cape buffalo breeding cessation, the management approach is based on field data and established wildlife management practices, prioritising the removal of older, non-breeding individuals to minimise genetic disruption.”
Timbavati says that their selective approach to trophy hunting of buffalo bulls ensures that older, non-reproductive bulls are primarily selected, minimising genetic disruption within herds
The role of culling: Impala management and the arrival of wild dogs
In addition to regulated trophy hunting, Timbavati undertakes culling operations to manage herbivore populations and maintain ecological balance. Impalas, particularly, are subject to culling due to their high numbers and impact on vegetation availability.
During the 2023/2024, “Of the 1,700 impala allocated for ecological offtake during the same period, a total of 822 were removed by management in culling operations, with 426 removed by landowners within the reserve,” says Pierce. This means 1,248 impalas were culled, representing just under 95% of the total offtakes of all species.
Wild dog packs moving into the reserve also influenced impala management decisions. “A decision was, however, taken by Timbavati management to request the removal of only 1,700 of the recommended 2,000 individuals, due to an increase in the number of wild dog packs frequenting the reserve,” Pierce explains. This shows how predator-prey dynamics impact conservation strategies, requiring constant monitoring and adaptive management.
Is this level of hunting sustainable?
From a purely numerical viewpoint, the hunting offtake follows a sustainable approach. The reserve conducts annual aerial censuses and demographic studies to ensure offtakes don’t compromise population stability. But we know that sustainability is about more than just numbers. A truly sustainable approach involves analysis of genetic diversity, ecological balance, and impacts on predator-prey dynamics within a reserve.
The debate around whether hunting in Timbavati is sustainable goes beyond this reserve’s borders. Timbavati’s open ecosystem means hunting decisions impact animal populations moving between private reserves and Kruger National Park. While a controlled hunting offtake of buffalo may not threaten the overall buffalo population, hunting apex predators like lions (if permitted) can disrupt pride structures and alter ecosystem stability. However, as noted above, Timbavati did not request lion offtakes for the 2023/2024 period.
No lions were hunted in Timbavati in the 2023/2024 season
“TPNR follows stringent scientific protocols to ensure sustainable hunting practices,” says Pierce. “These practices align with the overarching goal of maintaining ecological balance and preventing habitat fragmentation. The Greater Kruger landscape thrives on maintaining large, interconnected habitats, and TPNR’s practices are aligned with this principle.”
The bigger question: why continue trophy hunting?
However, the glaring question we have to ask is – if trophy hunting contributes only 8% of Timbavati’s budget and comes with ecological and reputational risks, why continue?
Timbavati’s strategy of economic diversification and land-use philosophy says that trophy hunting remains beneficial due to:
Economic insurance: “Timbavati continues to include trophy hunting within its economic model because it provides financial stability during times when tourism revenue may be disrupted, such as global crises,” says Pierce. “While it only contributes 8% of the budget, its value lies in economic diversification, mitigating the risks associated with relying solely on photographic tourism. [Trophy hunting] is a strategic financial buffer during economic downturns.”
While photographic tourism provides the lion’s revenue share, it is vulnerable to market fluctuations. Global crises, like the 2014 Ebola outbreak in West Africa, highlighted the fragility of tourism-dependent economies. Although the epidemic was geographically distant from significant safari destinations in Southern and East Africa, photographic tourism in these regions experienced significant declines due to widespread travel fears. In contrast, trophy hunting operations continued with limited disruption. This disparity is attributed to the hunting market’s distinct clientele and operational model, often less susceptible to global travel apprehensions. Timbavati management argues that trophy hunting provides an alternative revenue stream that is less sensitive to seasonal downturns. “It is crucial to acknowledge that while hunting revenue is comparatively smaller, it offers resilience when tourism income is disrupted, such as during global crises,” says Pierce. But as hunting only contributes 8% of Timbavati’s revenue, its overall contribution would still be limited in times of crisis, considering its minimal impact on the overall budget.
Low human footprint: Unlike photographic tourism, which requires lodges, vehicles, and staff, there is a standing belief that trophy hunting has a lower ecological footprint – higher fees for fewer feet through the door. “Hunting’s lower human footprint compared to high-volume tourism helps balance the environmental impact, reinforcing the need for diverse income strategies rather than single-source dependency. Our aim is to maintain a diversified revenue model to ensure long-term conservation success and financial resilience,” says Pierce. A few hunters generate more considerable revenue. While hunting utilises some existing tourism infrastructure, such as roads and lodges, it does not require the continuous game drives and vehicle movements for high-volume photographic tourism. A single hunter contributes financially at a scale comparable to many photographic tourists but requires fewer game drives, staff, and vehicles, resulting in less continuous impact.
Community initiatives: Timbavati reports that some hunting revenue is allocated to local community initiatives.“A portion of the revenue from regulated hunting is allocated to community projects in neighbouring areas,” says Pierce. “As highlighted in community engagement sessions, the most pressing issues for residents around Greater Kruger include employment, education, and reducing human-wildlife conflict. Presenting hunting as a practical tool that supports these socio-economic priorities can help contextualise its continued inclusion within the reserve’s financial model.”
By involving neighbouring communities in conservation benefits, the reserve is likely to foster support for wildlife protection. However, one can argue that this is not a differentiator because tourism revenue also contributes to community projects and involvement.
Political and policy considerations: While it may be a bitter pill for some to swallow, hunting is embedded in South Africa’s conservation policies as a tool for sustainable utilisation. It is important to note that Timbavati has demonstrated a commendable level of transparency by openly sharing data on sensitive issues like hunting when requested – setting a valuable precedent that other trophy hunting operations would do well to follow.“We are confident that our management practices and our robust monitoring and evaluation tools support every decision we make, whether it be about hunting, photographic tourism, or any other conservation management decision,” says Pierce.
The future of Timbavati’s funding model
Timbavati’s reliance on trophy hunting is far lower than in previous decades. The reserve has made strides in balancing its budget through photo tourism.
“TPNR has taken progressive steps to reduce dependency on hunting revenue,” says Pierce. “Transitioning to alternative funding sources is ongoing, but the current model ensures both financial sustainability and ecological balance.”
As conservation costs continue to rise, eliminating hunting may not be a practical solution. Instead, the focus should be on ensuring hunting quotas remain science-based, transparent, and aligned with ecosystem sustainability. It will also be an essential exercise to compare Timbavati’s 2024/2025 numbers when they are finalised.
The long-term challenge for Timbavati – and other private reserves in the Greater Kruger – will be to explore alternative funding models.
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is open for submissions. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2025 to midnight on 30 April 2025. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in early June 2025.
Here is Gallery 2 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other gallery, follow the link: Gallery 1
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is open for submissions. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2025 to midnight on 30 April 2025. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in early June 2025.
Here is Gallery 1 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other gallery, follow the link: Gallery 2
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
Chimps trafficked to billionaire’s zoo + top photo votes
In a world overwhelmed by uncertainty, it’s easy to feel anxious, disconnected, and weary.
But there is healing in the wilds of Africa – in the gentle touch of early morning golden light on the wildebeest herds of the Serengeti, the whisper of a bat’s wing beats as it works a fruiting tree in the Sabi Sand, and the solemn silence of the Mountains of the Moon. The simple presence of wildlife following ancient rhythms, and rural people pursuing lives of dignity and respect for nature. Travel is more than escape; it is a return to what truly matters.
You’ll find clarity and purpose in Africa’s wild places. Remember how it feels to breathe deeply, marvel again, and be fully present. Exploration has always been a human instinct, and now, as humanity battles with change, it can restore our sense of connection.
We love telling you about lost species returning from the brink! For the first time in 73 years, the black-lored waxbill has been spotted – this time caught on camera. Thought lost to time, a group of eight birds were spotted flitting near Lake Kabwe in the Democratic Republic of Congo’s (DRC) Upemba National Park. Researcher Manuel Weber had to convince the travellers he was with to turn the boat around to get a good view of what had seemed like a group of unexceptional seedeaters. This is the first documented record of the species since 1950, and also the first photograph ever taken of the bird. Thankfully, Manuel trusted his gut. A lesson for today.
The DRC has more lost birds than almost any other region on Earth, and this rediscovery underlines the importance of continued exploration and conservation in overlooked corners of Africa.
Staying in the DRC, where a controversy over wild chimpanzees trafficked to India’s Vantara Zoo using suspect CITES permits has NGOs demanding global action. Check out the story by Daniel Stiles below. Plus, it’s been a bumper week of entries for Photographer of the Year 2025, and we bring you two epic galleries below featuring dramatic and fleeting moments in the wild.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Story 1 TRAFFICKED CHIMPS
Controversy erupts over wild chimpanzees trafficked from DRC to India’s Vantara Zoo using suspect CITES permits. NGOs demand global action
Story 2 TOP SHOTS – GALLERY 1
Our Week 8 entries are in. See Gallery 1 of the latest epic pics. Enter to win a safari to see forest elephants and lowland gorillas
Story 3 TOP SHOTS – GALLERY 2
Week 8 of Photographer of the Year is live! Tap to explore Gallery 2 & enter to win a trip to Odzala-Kokoua NP
Glamping at its best! Experience northern Botswana during prime season on a fully catered mobile safari. Explore Moremi, Khwai, Savute and the Chobe River waterfront. Led by experienced guides, you’ll track big cats and wild dogs, and glide silently down meandering waterways in search of glittering birds and exciting wildlife.
Discover wild Madagascar on this connoisseur safari that takes you deep into Madagascar’s remote corners, where rare wildlife and rich local culture await. Explore the Ifotaka Community Forest with the Antandroy tribe and search for Verreaux’s sifaka and white-footed sportive lemurs. Then head northwest to Namoroka’s surreal Tsingy landscapes, home to 10 lemur species, flying foxes, tenrecs, fossa, and the elusive aye-aye.
Another 5-star review for teamAG, where our guest Wendy enjoyed a solo adventure to Uganda and the Maasai Mara:
“An unforgettable safari experience with Leonie Cook. As a solo female traveller from Canada who typically enjoys handling my own planning and bookings, I was initially nervous about letting someone else take the reins for such a significant trip. Adding to my concerns was the fact that I had limited knowledge of the countries I planned to visit (Uganda & Kenya) and the distance I’d be travelling. I had countless questions and different proposals about my trip, and Leonie was always there to answer everything and set my mind at ease. In today’s world with so many online scams, trusting a company I wasn’t familiar with was daunting. However, it gave me immense comfort knowing that Leonie lived in Kenya and had firsthand experience with many of the destinations she suggested for me.
When it came to pricing, I quickly understood that a lot of behind-the-scenes work and effort goes into creating a seamless safari experience. The team made it all come together effortlessly. I am beyond grateful to Leonie, AG, and all of the incredible people I encountered: guides, rangers, managers, staff, drivers, pilots, and the wonderful locals. Throughout my trip, I always felt safe, and I could reach out to any team member if I needed assistance. Pick-ups were always punctual, and I was greeted with smiles at every turn. The entire staff went above and beyond to make me feel welcome and special.
Lastly, being able to witness the stunning creatures in their natural habitat, so close and personal, was a life-changing experience. It’s something I’ll never forget. I truly had the safari of a lifetime!” – Wendy Iannone
WATCH: Mismanagement of plastic around Victoria Falls is putting both its wildlife and community in grave danger. But three local men believe that they have found a solution which will drain the plastic from the area and lock it away for good. See how a near-death experience with an elephant brought plastic recycling Ele-Collection into existence. (08:18) Click here to watch
An operation involving the transfer of endangered chimpanzees from the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) to India has sparked international outrage and serious questions about wildlife trafficking, corruption, and misuse of CITES permits. At the centre of the controversy is a high-profile Indian zoo project, Vantara, and DRC wildlife authorities accused of misrepresenting wild-caught animals as captive-bred to facilitate their export. Conservationists warn that this case could signal a dangerous new chapter in the global illegal wildlife trade. Note: The information in this article is based on allegations and ongoing investigations*.
The trafficking of chimpanzees from the DRC has long been a troubling issue. The country is home to vital populations of great apes, but widespread poaching – often for the bushmeat trade – frequently results in orphaned young chimpanzees being captured and sold. Sanctuaries like Lwiro Primate Rehabilitation Centre serve as a refuge for these animals, working to provide care and eventual rehabilitation. However, these efforts are threatened by corrupt practices, as highlighted by the recent attempt by DRC’s Congolese Institute for the Conservation of Nature (ICCN), the wildlife authority of the DRC, to remove chimpanzees from Lwiro, allegedly under the guise of a zoo revitalisation project.
ICCN letter authorising the Kinshasa Zoo director to “recover” 12 chimpanzees
The letter was signed by Yves Milan Ngangay, Director General of ICCN, which is also responsible for the nation’s sanctuaries and public zoos.
The Lwiro sanctuary, situated in a tropical forest 45km from Bukavu, just outside Kahuzi-Biega National Park, is home to about 130 chimpanzee survivors of poaching and attempted trafficking. Many saw their mothers butchered for bushmeat before their eyes and are undergoing rehabilitation at Lwiro.
The staff courageously refused to hand over the chimpanzees, and ICCN left empty-handed. Local community and conservation groups heard about the incident and issued a strong press release on 12 January condemning the attempt to “capture 12 chimpanzees at the Lwiro Primate Rehabilitation Centre. This action, initiated by the ICCN general management, constitutes a serious threat to the conservation of these endangered primates and undermines the commitment of many international partners.”
The communique announced a five-year programme to renovate the country’s zoos and botanical gardens to strengthen their role in biodiversity conservation by collecting various primate and artiodactyl (even-toed ungulate) species for research, staff training and conservation breeding.
In the communique, he criticised those who had stopped the lawful transfer of the primates to begin the “experimental” work at the Kinshasa Zoo.
Most noteworthy in the communique was that “the collection of specimens by the Institute in this vast programme can only be made from sanctuaries or else from rehabilitation centres and public and private animal parks, depending on their status and relationship with the Institute”
Several critics of the scheme have pointed out that the dilapidated Kinshasa Zoo does not have the facilities, staff or financial capacity to implement the programme presented by ICCN.
“If the mission is true, the chimpanzees will be sent to a real death trap,” warned Sara Rosenberg, a former volunteer at the Lwiro Primate Rehabilitation Center, referring to the transfer.
AG has received screenshots from videos taken on 25 January 2025 showing the zoo and chimpanzees in cages there.
On 13 February this year, Ofir Drori, founder-director of the wildlife law enforcement NGO EAGLE, posted a press release on their website, seen by AG but since removed, stating that in recent months, nine chimpanzees had arrived at the Kinshasa and Kisangani zoos from unexplained sources. Drori speculated that the chimps had been collected with the intention of selling them and stated:
“Links from ICCN lead to a likely buyer of the chimps. There has been a major rise in primates and other wildlife shipping to India for the past 6 months, with a sole buyer: the so-called Greens Zoological Rescue and Rehabilitation Centre (GZRRC).” GZRRC is the original name of Vantara, which aims to be the biggest zoo in the world. It is owned by Mukesh Ambani as part of GZRCC and headed up by his son, Anant Ambani.
Recently arrived chimpanzees in Kinshasa Zoo live in dirty, cramped cages
Later that day, on 13 February, the chimps were flown to India on a private jet. Our sources later alleged that the chimpanzees had arrived at Vantara. The DRC CITES export permit allegedly lists nine chimpanzees in the shipment, with a “Z” (zoo) purpose code and “C” (captive-bred) origin. To use a “C code”, the Appendix I specimens must have been second-generation born in captivity, and their progenitors must have been acquired legally.
The DRC CITES export permit
Contacted by AG, Ofir Drori suggested, “There are no great ape breeding facilities anywhere in Africa, and the chimps at the Kinshasa Zoo were certainly not bred in captivity. The wild is the only logical source for them.”
The chimpanzees, therefore, were likely not acquired from lawful sources. This contradicts the specification made in the ICCN official communique that states collection “can only be made from sanctuaries or else from rehabilitation centres and public and private animal parks according to the laws applying to them”. The CITES permit states that the Kinshasa Zoo is the exporter. This fact also contradicts the stated purpose of collecting the chimpanzees in the first place, which was “for research, staff training and conservation breeding”. “They were collected to sell,” suggested Drori.
ICCN has denied the selling of chimpanzees. In an interview with Mongabay Africa, chief site director of the Kinshasa Zoo, Matata Ngirabose Bruno, who also headed the ICCN mission that visited Lwiro, categorically said that “the zoo does not sell animals”.
ICCN documents dated 27 December 2024, seen by AG, authorise the collection of eight chimpanzees found in captivity in villages around Buta, which is in northeastern DRC about 200 kilometres north of Kisangani. They were to be transferred to the Kinshasa Zoo by 12 January 2025. Therefore, these chimpanzees will have been present in Kinshasa Zoo when EAGLE reported the arrival of chimps from unknown sources. It also placed these chimps at Kinshasa Zoo just a month before nine chimpanzees were reportedly exported from the zoo to Vantara.
The young chimps found in captivity in villages were likely collateral damage to bushmeat hunting, and therefore, they were captured from the wild. Under normal circumstances, such recovered chimpanzees are sent to a sanctuary for rehabilitation and proper care – not to a zoo, which usually have little capacity to offer care and rehabilitation to the young chimps.
This also brings into question the listing of the source of these chimps as “Code C” (born in captivity). The fraudulent listing of source codes as “Code C” is a well-known tactic in trafficking circles, known as a “C-scam”. Examples of the relatively common C-scam can be found in a recent report on great ape trafficking published by the Global Initiative Against Transnational Organised Crime. CITES has dealt with such cases in the past by ordering a suspension of trade by the offending parties until remedial action is taken.
Not the first shipment to Vantara
On 6 March 2025, United for Wildlife released an alert alleging that “from March of 2024 at least eight consignments of CITES-listed primates, including chimpanzees, an Appendix I species, and other wildlife were shipped on flights from the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) to India.” The alert stated: “The consignments possibly contained laundered and smuggled species hidden amongst legally traded animals, including chimpanzees, bonobos, and gorillas, and permits associated with the consignments may have been falsified, according to multiple confidential sources.” DRC CITES export permits issued between 6 December 2024 and 30 January 2025 also indicate the alleged importer as GZRRC.
One of the permits for exporting primates, birds, and turtles to GZRRC was from a known DRC animal trader. Were great apes concealed in some of the shipping crates?
Other allegations made against Vantara
In March of 2024, M Rajshekhar published an article on Vantara in the Himal Southasian newspaper. While not drawing on any legal proceedings or findings from authorities, the article suggested numerous irregularities in the origin of Vantara’s elephants from within India. It also pointed to further irregularities in the origin of other endangered species from international suppliers who were not the usual sources of animals in need of rescue and rehabilitation. The sources appeared to be commercial exotic animal traders or sources with records associated with illegal wildlife trade. On 6 March this year, the Wild Animal Protection Forum of South Africa issued a report that questioned the extensive range of species (36) and high number of animals (765) exported to Vantara. It highlighted various problems with the different species exported, which allegedly Vantara asserts were all rescues from detrimental circumstances.
The WAPSFA report expressed concern about Vantara’s breeding plans: “The lions and tigers exported from South Africa appear to have been purchased and exported from breeding facilities in South Africa… They will now be transformed into breeding machines, exploited within the numerous animal breeding facilities (nurseries) outside the main zoo.”
The report continued: “WAPFSA would need to be convinced, based on independent, verifiable evidence that the additional list of species exported from South Africa were saved or rescued from adverse conditions.”
Later in March, the UK-based Independent reported that Vantara had dismissed the complaint by the South African coalition as “entirely false and baseless” and said they had served them a legal notice over the report.
On 13 March, the Süddeutsche Zeitung published an investigative article that alleged many irregularities regarding the sourcing of animals at Vantara, including the probability that some had been sourced from the wild, not captivity. The article alleged that 39,000 animals were being kept in Vantara by the end of 2024. A European wildlife dealer is quoted in the article as stating, “Regardless of which wholesaler I talk to, the supply of wild animals is bought up. The supply lists are getting shorter because everything goes to India.” The fact that this demand also leads to more wild captures was “obvious” to the animal dealer.
Further action
ICCN is currently collecting other animals allegedly listed in Vantara’s “rescue list”, including bonobos and gorillas. A concerned group of wildlife NGOs has drafted a report detailing several instances of trade irregularities, including the chimpanzee trade reported here, and recommended amongst other measures that the CITES Secretariat and the Standing Committee (SC) request that India agree to suspend imports of live specimens of CITES-listed species, and that Parties refrain from issuing permits for the export of live animals of CITES-listed species to India, until this issue can be discussed at SC79. These procedures are preliminary in nature.
The 79th meeting of the CITES Standing Committee will be held in November this year in Samarkand, Uzbekistan, immediately preceding the Conference of the Parties. The issue around Vantara is set to be one of the most contentious items on the agenda, pitting NGOs against a powerful billionaire family.
As international scrutiny intensifies, the case of the trafficked chimpanzees highlights the urgent need for stronger enforcement of wildlife trade laws and greater transparency in both exporting and importing countries. The upcoming CITES Standing Committee meeting in Uzbekistan could prove pivotal in setting new precedents for accountability, especially when powerful private interests are involved. For now, the fate of the trafficked chimpanzees – and potentially many more endangered species – rests on whether global conservation authorities are willing to confront systemic loopholes and hold perpetrators to account, regardless of their influence or wealth.
*Editor’s note: This story has been edited post-publication to protect sensitive information.
Further reading
Kahuzi-Biega National Park is a biodiversity haven and sanctuary for critically endangered gorillas, where conservation triumphs over challenges. Read more about Kahuzi-Biega here.
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is open for submissions. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2025 to midnight on 30 April 2025. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in early June 2025.
Here is Gallery 2 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other gallery, follow the link: Gallery 1
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is open for submissions. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2025 to midnight on 30 April 2025. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in early June 2025.
Here is Gallery 1 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other gallery, follow the link: Gallery 2
How welcome are American tourists in Africa as President Trump implements his policy changes? Some United States safari guests have expressed these concerns to our travel experts. This is what I tell them:
American society seems divided at the moment, with anxiety and aggressive rhetoric being the order of the day. And so I totally get why American tourists wonder if African society has also flipped into this state of uncertainty and fear in reaction to their President’s actions. Let me deal with that question clearly: NO, we have not.
HERE, IN AFRICA, we continue to respect and welcome Americans as adventurous, generous, educated guests – regardless of their political affiliations. We have bigger things to concern ourselves with, and we trust that the American people will solve their own issues.
It’s too early to predict the likely impacts of President Trump’s policies on Africa’s economies, but they will likely be severe for wildlife conservation and humanitarian projects that have grown dependent on USAID.
I sense a profound sadness about the situation rather than animosity towards the American people. There is the realisation that some African governments and NGOs have grown too dependent on aid (from all corners of the globe) and need to up their game to have more robust revenue-generation models. Also, there is hope that some vital aid support from the American people will return once President Trump has served his term.
More than ever, the African tourism industry needs our American (and other) friends to sustain our biodiversity and rural people in the current political climate – by visiting as tourists. Please share this message with your United States friends who are considering an African safari.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
I’ve probably heard my last woodland kingfisher chatter of the season in a Johannesburg park this past week. These small but mighty birds will embark on their journeys north to warmer climates now. But where do they go? A new study has found that some woodland kingfishers are travelling 4,000km to South Sudan. But the biggest surprise is how and why they navigate the route to get there. Scientists tracking them with tiny geolocators found they migrate with remarkable precision, closely following the Intertropical Convergence Zone (ICZ). This is a moving band of seasonal rains that shifts north and south of the equator, attracting insects, small snakes, and frogs – and thus birds – at different times of the year. Their journey shows how deeply nature is connected: weather patterns, seasonal shifts, and even the smallest creatures moving in sync.
It’s been another bumper week of Photographer of the Year entries, with the pics coming in in droves. Enjoy our gallery filled with action-packed photos. Less than a month left to enter! Plus, a new survey sheds light on declining lion numbers in Kruger’s north. Check these out below.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Photographer of the Year 2025 is here! Enter for a chance to win a safari to incredible Odzala-Kokoua National Park
TRAVEL DESK:
Discover the magic of Odzala-Kokoua National Park, Congo-Brazzaville, with two unique safari experiences. Choose between an immersive gorilla trekking adventure, where you track habituated lowland gorillas on foot through the forest, or a slower, lodge-based safari, offering rare sightings of unhabituated gorillas and other wildlife from elevated treehouse platforms overlooking forest baïs – a short walk from your room. Two incredible ways to experience Congo’s forest wonders:
Trek for an up close encounter of habituated western lowland gorillas on this eight-day safari. Find the hidden wildlife on guided baï and rainforest walks. Take a river cruise or go on a kayak safari down Lekolo River and experience the wealth of life living in and on the shores of these waterways. This safari will leave you spellbound and with unforgettable memories to take home.
Unhabituated lowland gorilla watching in Odzala-Kokoua – 8 days – from US$4,055pps
Watch unhabituated western lowland gorillas and other shy forest creatures from the comfort of elevated treehouses overlooking forest clearings in Odzala-Kokoua NP, Congo-Brazzaville. Find gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffalos, bongos, dwarf crocodiles, huge flocks of grey parrots and green pigeons, and other iconic wildlife species that roam the forests, baïs and rivers of Odzala-Kokoua.
Another 5-star review for teamAG, thanks to Nikolay’s whirlwind adventure to Uganda:
“An absolutely amazing experience! Murchison Falls National Park, a rhino sanctuary, chimpanzee trekking, numerous game drives… all beautifully fitted into a short 2-day trip! Outstanding support throughout, brilliant service. Memories for a lifetime! Keep it up Africa Geographic. Thank you!”
WATCH: Botswana has more elephants than any other country on the planet. But what’s been hailed as a great conservation success story has become a deadly problem. While they have turbo charged photo tourism, in some parts of the country there are two elephants for every human. Stories of elephants causing havoc – destroying crops and even killing people – are fuelling anger towards these majestic animals. Journalist Stephanie March travels across Botswana to see who is benefitting and who is paying the price for this conservation triumph. (30:27) Click here to watch
Anecdotal evidence from Kruger National Park often suggests the south of the park offers better lion viewing than the north. Some of the best Kruger lion sightings occur in the Satara-Skukuza region. But is this merely a matter of terrain, lion density, road geography or luck? Or does it reflect lower lion numbers in Kruger’s northern areas? A recent survey by the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT) has provided fresh insight into Kruger National Park’s northern lion population. As conservationists work to understand the challenges facing these apex predators, the findings highlight key trends that could influence future wildlife management strategies.
The Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area (GLTFCA), which includes South Africa’s Kruger National Park and Limpopo National Park in Mozambique, is known as one of Africa’s last ten lion strongholds. However, a recent lion survey by the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT) has shown worrying data on the lions of the GLTFCA. The survey took place in Kruger’s Nxanatseni North region, which includes the Pafuri, Vlakteplaas, Punda Maria, Shangoni, Woodlands and Shingwedzi sections – an area covering 5162km2. The survey, conducted in collaboration with South African National Parks, shows a potential 63% decline in lion numbers in the area over the 18 years spanning the most recent surveys.
Previous lion surveys indicated larger populations, with fluctuating results. In 2005, a call-up survey estimated the population to be 283. Three years later, a survey with reduced sampling estimated the population to be around 75 lions. In 2015, the original 2005 call-up survey was replicated, resulting in an estimate of 119 lions. And then, a 2023 estimate put the population at 122 lions. The EWT’s latest count aligns closely with the latter two surveys, indicating a population of around 105 lions. What is concerning, however, is that the latest numbers represent the lowest number recorded in the past 10 years.
The results revealed that lion density is lowest in the Pafuri and Punda Maria areas. These areas are thought to suffer from relatively high levels of snaring for bushmeat. Here, lions have also been caught as by-catch in snares set for other wildlife, and some have also been poisoned as a means to harvest their body parts.
Additionally, the data indicates that proximity to water is a significant factor influencing lion density across the landscape. Lion populations were the highest in areas close to water sources. While lions are not directly dependent on fixed water sources (they do not need to drink every day, and obtain some much-needed moisture from prey), their primary prey species are. The closure of artificial waterholes in the Kruger may have had an impact on lion numbers and density in this semi-arid Nxanatseni North region.
Lion densities are much lower in Kruger’s northern regions
Important to note is that technology and conservation methods have greatly improved over the past few years, as have survey methods. Previous surveys used a technique known as lion call-ups or call-ins, where recorded buffalo distress calls played through speakers attracted lions to preselected sites at least 8-12km from each other. But, this method had limitations, including the risk of double counting individuals, and limitations in times of poor weather.
Understanding how many lions roam Africa’s wild spaces is not just an academic exercise – it’s a crucial step in ensuring their survival. Conservationists have long grappled with the challenge of accurately estimating lion populations. But, a different approach to counting lions by their whisker patterns – a means of identification that is similar to the way we use the human fingerprint – provides a deeper insight into the makeup of lion populations By combining camera trap data, GPS tracking, and statistical modelling, researchers can provide a greater insight of individual lions within a population. This assists in drafting future plans for lion management within conservation areas.
In the survey, researchers used camera traps and their own photographs to capture lion data. These techniques allowed them to capture high-quality photographs of the lions to identify individual animals based on their unique whisker spot patterns. They would then create a studbook to determine whether they had identified the same lions in different areas.
The lions of Kruger were identified using whisker spot patterns
“Once we cross-referenced the lions identified to those already in the studbook, we could determine whether they were new lions or needed to log them as duplicates. The ideal scenario is to recapture [data on] the same lions in an area as many times as possible, and not to find new lions for several weeks,” explained Marnus Roodbol, the EWT’s Carnivore Conservation Programme Lowveld Project Manager.
Researchers also excluded any lions under the age of one year, as this age group tends to have a high mortality rate. “There are so many environmental factors contributing towards the mortality of young lions such as male lions, other lions fighting around a kill, snakes, hyena, etc. Once they break through the one-year gap, we can be safe to say that they have a higher chance of survival,” says Roodbol.
Lions under a year old were excluded from the survey
Counting lions in a vast wilderness such as Kruger is no easy feat and comes with challenges. Scientists drove 10,006 km and deployed camera traps for 2,684 trap nights during the survey. But Roodbol explains that capturing data on the same lions presented a challenge. “The northern lions can be very skittish due to, for example, low tourist numbers in the north of the Kruger National Park and fewer roads where they are exposed to tourists.”
Furthermore, road closures and ongoing habitat restoration efforts, which made accessing certain areas difficult, compounded the situation. Patience was essential, as capturing the necessary images of both sides of an individual lion was no simple task.
According to Kruger National Park communications and marketing manager Isaac Phaahla, similar surveys take place in the south of the park. However, it does seem that the north’s lions are declining faster. On why this is the case, he has some answers. “The result of the survey looks at different suppositions, water availability, poisoning, and snaring, but it neglects to look at the huge hyena population in the area. There is also the aspect of lions not knowing human borders, and they sometimes end up in Zimbabwe or Mozambique,” says Phaahla.
With lion survey numbers over the years showing a decline in Africa, conservationists must determine how often to conduct these surveys moving forward. “We will look at doing these surveys either annually or biannually with SANParks,” Roodbol confirms. More frequent monitoring will help track population trends more accurately and assess the effectiveness of conservation strategies.
The goal is not just to determine how many lions exist but to understand how they are distributed across different landscapes and how their populations are connected. Conservationists stress that without precise data, interventions – such as creating wildlife corridors to connect isolated populations – are based on guesswork rather than science. As climate change, habitat loss, and human-wildlife conflict continue to threaten Africa’s lions, the ability to count these big cats correctly may well be the key to their long-term survival.
As apex predators, lions play a crucial role in maintaining the balance of Kruger’s ecosystem. Their decline could have far-reaching consequences for the park’s biodiversity. Continued research, improved conservation measures, and increased awareness will ensure these iconic big cats continue to roam Kruger’s landscapes for generations to come.
Want to go on a lion-seeking safari? Browse our top safaris showcasing the Big 5. Or longing to visit Kruger? Check out our ready-made safaris to Greater Kruger. Alternatively, we’ll help you plan your niche and tailor-made lion safari.
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is open for submissions. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2025 to midnight on 30 April 2025. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in early June 2025.
Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
Africa’s top lion hotspots + salt pans expedition + wildest pics
Back in the day, my geography teacher enjoyed spanking naughty boys on the bum with a wooden bat in front of the class. After each such ordeal, we had to sign the bat, which he had nicknamed ‘trane’ (‘tears’ in Afrikaans). Our English language teacher made us eat chalk if we failed her live spelling tests. Goodness, how things have changed!
Things have also changed in the wildlife conservation world. Up to the 1980s, painted wolves (wild dogs) were shot as vermin in national parks in many parts of Africa, and until 1994, entire families of elephants were culled in the Kruger National Park.
Yet many in the commercial extraction industries – including mining, wild forest logging, fishing and trophy hunting of free-roaming animals – continue as they did hundreds of years ago as if nothing has changed, despite massive evidence of collapsing resources.
Another thing that has not changed is our drive to provide responsible options for travellers seeking tailor-made experiential safaris. Thanks for your support. Is it time to plan your next safari?
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
For a decade and a half, Uganda’s big carnivores – lions, leopards, and spotted hyenas – have been living in the conservation shadows. That’s until a team of local and international experts decided to roll up their sleeves, get to ground level, and count, count, count. With a mix of rangers, university students, lodge owners, and even trophy hunters – over 100 collaborators in total – Uganda embarked on the country’s largest carnivore survey. Over 26,000km of driving, 7,500 camera-trap nights and hours of training to ID lions later, we now know that Murchison Falls’ lions are holding their ground, but Queen Elizabeth’s famous tree-climbers are sadly on the decline. Meanwhile, leopards are doing just fine and hyenas are proving surprisingly resilient. So, what’s the takeaway? There is a lot to be done to help Uganda’s lions in the face of poaching, habitat loss and human-wildlife conflict. Science is saving Uganda’s big carnivores, one whisker spot at a time – and more importantly, it’s uniting the country’s conservationists for a common cause. 🦁📊
This week’s Photographer of the Year selection captures the spirit of Africa in crystal clear detail. There’s plenty of wild drama and golden afternoon light to delight. And then, our safari experts have put their heads together to come up with a tight list of the best spots to see lions in Africa. Don’t miss this must-read guide below.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Story 1 STUNNING PHOTOS
Photographer of the Year 2025 is here! Enter for a chance to win a safari to incredible Odzala-Kokoua National Park
Story 2 LION HOTSPOTS
For the best chance of seeing lions in the wild, head to one of Africa’s top lion hotspots – recommended by AG safari experts
Fancy a guided photographic safari in Kenya’s Maasai Mara? Join award-winning photographer Arnfinn Johansen on this exclusive safari for four guests. Highlights include guided game drives with an experienced Maasai guide in a modified photographic vehicle and accommodation at Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp. Departure dates: 24 October–1 November 2025. Only 2 spaces left!
Find your soul on this journey to Makgadikgadi Pans – including a quadbike trip to the fabled Kubu Island. An iconic exploration of the vast Botswana salt pans – coupled with game drives in grassy plains and brush packed with a surprising amount of wildlife. Meet meerkats, sleep under ancient baobabs and a gazillion stars, and enjoy luxury tented accommodation and delicious meals.
Vusa the Lion Guardian: Helping kids navigate life in lion territory
How do you teach young children about the challenges of living alongside Africa’s apex predator? The Southern African Conservation Trust (SACT) has an answer: an exciting new comic and poster featuring Vusa the Lion Guardian. This fun yet vital educational tool helps rural schoolchildren and their families understand human-wildlife conflict and how to stay safe. The comic teaches kids how to build bomas to protect livestock from lions, while the poster lays out life-saving “do’s and don’ts” for unexpected lion encounters – crucial knowledge for children walking to school through wild landscapes.
Recently, students from Nsongwa Primary School, bordering Hwange National Park, received their very own Vusa comics, sparking curiosity and conversations about conservation. Now, SACT needs your help to get these essential resources into more classrooms, clinics, and community centers across Africa. Want to support this game-changing project? Read more about our Collar a Lion campaign to see how you can make a difference!
WATCH: In the heart of Uganda’s Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, Phoebe Niringiyimana is one of few female guides leading treks that bring visitors face-to-face with majestic mountain gorillas. Witness her deep connection with these incredible creatures in this heartwarming video. (01:58) Click here to watch
Aptly named the “King of Beasts”, the African lion is an iconic wildlife species, and the joy of seeing these big cats on safari is at the top of many bucket lists. Despite their popularity, lions are not as common as one might expect, and sightings are never guaranteed. A century ago, there were as many as 200,000 wild lions in Africa, but today only about 20,000 remain, and lions are confined to about 15% of their former range.
Despite these alarming declines, several destinations still offer a strong chance of seeing these big cats in the wild. For the best chance of seeing lions in the wild, head to one of Africa’s top lion hotspots. Our safari experts put their heads together to come up with this list of the best destinations to see wild lions in Africa. While these options offer excellent chances and opportunities to see lions – from rare subspecies to Africa’s largest prides – our list is only a selection of the multitude of spots where travellers can see lions in Africa.
Mara-Serengeti Ecosystem, Kenya & Tanzania
Including the Maasai Mara and Serengeti
Stretching over 24,000 km² from Serengeti National Park in Tanzania to the Maasai Mara National Reserve in Kenya, the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem is home to one of the highest densities of lions in the world.
A trio of handsome males in Serengeti National Park
The Serengeti boasts the oldest lion research project in Africa, the Serengeti Lion Project, which has been operating for nearly 50 years. In addition, expect good lion encounters in the Ngorongoro Crater, on the fringes of the Serengeti ecosystem.
Across the border in Kenya, the wide-open savannah plains of the Maasai Mara National Reserve offer excellent lion viewing, with large prides accustomed to tourist vehicles. The Mara lions have been made famous by the popular BBC TV series, Big Cat Diaries.
The sub-adults of Maasai Mara’s Topi pride attempt to hunt a large buffalo
Northern Botswana
Including the Okavango Delta, Khwai and Chobe
From dry savannahs to lush wetlands, northern Botswana has it all, and lions abound in this vast wilderness. These lions have adapted to their varied environments and prey on a wide range of species, from elephants and hippos to buffaloes and impalas. And in the harsh, dry winters when water is scarce, lions even compete with crocodiles to scavenge on rotting carcasses. Okavango Delta lions swim between islands and negotiate channels and floodplains during the annual flood season (June to August) in search of prey.
Hunting lechwe in the waters of the delta
The Okavango Delta (and Moremi Game Reserve) hosts one of the largest lion populations in the world, but also expect to see lions in the adjoining Chobe National Park, as well as in Khwai Community Concession and the larger Khwai Private Reserve in the unfenced wilderness of northern Botswana. The region offers a dramatic wilderness experience ideal for lion enthusiasts.
A big male lion walks past a small elephant herd during the height of the Okavango’s dry season – making sure to safely keep his distance.Grinning and bearing it, this lioness crosses the river in Khwai
Greater Kruger & Kruger National Park, South Africa
The Greater Kruger is South Africa’s premier wildlife destination and, as an open system with Kruger National Park, is home to the majority of the country’s wild lions. Kruger National Park, larger than Wales, is renowned for its diverse lion habitats, ranging from open plains to dense woodland. While lions occur throughout Greater Kruger and Kruger National Park, they can be difficult to find in the more remote northern areas. The large open plains in the central areas and the higher prey density further south mean more lions are seen here. Within the Greater Kruger, Timbavati is particularly famous for its naturally occurring population of white lions, making this area a must-visit for those seeking rare lion encounters.
A white lion in Ngala, TimbavatiA pride on the hunt across one of Kruger National Park’s public dirt roads
Northern Namibia
Including Etosha and Kaokoland/Damaraland
Namibia’s lion population is distributed across the northern reaches of the country, with Etosha National Park hosting the most accessible population. Etosha lions are best viewed in the dry winter months, and the best strategy to view them is to park at one of many waterholes and wait for them to come to you.
Escaping the heat and flies in Etosha
Perhaps the most fascinating Namibian lions are the desert-adapted lions, which occur in the remote Kaokoland/Damaraland region of the northwest, an area of sand dunes and sparse vegetation, wedged between Etosha and the barren Skeleton Coast. These formidable lions eke out a living despite the harsh landscape, low prey density and conflict with farmers.
Desert-adapted lions on Namibia’s Skeleton Coast
The best time to view the desert-adapted lions is during the dry winter season (June to October). During this time, they can be found hunting around the sparse water sources or lazing about in the open, soaking up the morning sun.
Luangwa Valley, Zambia
The Luangwa Valley in Zambia is renowned for its large lion prides, with South Luangwa National Park offering the most accessible lion sightings. South Luangwa is the birthplace of African walking safaris – a very special wildlife experience for any safari-goer. Encountering wild lions on foot with an experienced guide is one of Africa’s quintessential safari experiences. With frequent sightings of large prides of up to 30 lions in South Luangwa, it’s a must for lion enthusiasts.
Young and regal male lions of South Luangwa
Hwange, Zimbabwe
Hwange National Park hosts a good population of lions and prey species – including large herds of buffalo, a favourite item on the menu. Additionally, these lions are known for hunting elephants. Zimbabwe’s largest national park offers excellent lion habitat – including grass plains, deciduous woodlands and thorn savannah. Hwange’s network of waterholes offers good positioning for tourists seeking to witness a lion kill. Just a short drive from Victoria Falls, Hwange is a convenient add-on to your Southern African safari.
Buffalo is one of the preferred prey choices of lions in Hwange
Tsavo, Kenya
Tsavo National Park, one of the largest in Kenya, is famous for its maneless lions and its resilient prides. These lions, which are smaller than the typical African lion, are particularly known for their unique appearance and behaviour. The lions of Tsavo have distinct adaptations – such as scant-to-absent manes – that have evolved in response to the extreme heat of this harsh arid landscape. Observing these fascinating lions, along with other wildlife species, is a must for every bucket list.
One of Tsavo’s scanty-maned lions moves off from an agitated elephant
Kalahari Desert, South Africa & Botswana
Including Tswalu Kalahari, Kgalagadi & the Central Kalahari
The Kalahari Desert is home to some of Africa’s most striking big cats: black-maned lions. The lions of Tswalu Kalahari Reserve, Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and Central Kalahari Game Reserve are particularly notable for their remarkable adaptations to the harsh desert environment.
A dark-maned lion of Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
These lions are known for their resilience, hunting in one of the most challenging ecosystems in Africa. Their distinctive black manes make them a special sight to see. The stark beauty of the Kalahari, combined with the dramatic lion sightings, makes it a must-visit for lion lovers.
The Kalahari’s striking landscapes offer an epic setting for lion sightings
Mana Pools, Zimbabwe
Mana Pools National Park in Zimbabwe is another excellent location for lion sightings. Known for its incredible biodiversity and pristine wilderness, Mana Pools offers some of the best lion viewing in Africa. The park is renowned for its walking safaris, where visitors can encounter lions on foot, adding a thrilling element to the experience.
Away from the river, at the foot of the escarpment, is Chitake Springs – a remote and truly wild safari experience. Here, the spring is a perennial water source in a dry riverbed – the only water source for concentrations of wildlife. During the dry season, large herds of buffalo, elephant and other herbivores converge on the water, and lions line the steep river channel banks to ambush their prey as they drink.
A mating pair of lions beneath the tall acacia albidas of Mana PoolsLions bring down a buffalo separated from its herd in Chitake Springs
Zakouma, Chad – for West African lions
In West Africa, Zakouma National Park in Chad is home to elusive West African lions. These lions are smaller than their East and Southern African counterparts but no less impressive. Zakouma offers an authentic, off-the-beaten-path safari experience, with opportunities to see these rare and critically endangered lions. Zakouma is managed by African Parks in partnership with the Government of Chad and local communities. In the process, Zakouma has seen major conservation boosts, a significant reduction in poaching, and a revitalisation of tourism in the Greater Zakouma Ecosystem.
West African lions in Zakouma
Bale Mountains, Kafa & Awash, Ethiopia
In the Highlands of Ethiopia, the lion subspecies Panthera leo melanochaita – to which the Cape lion is genetically similar – still survives in the Bale Mountains, Kafa Reserve, and Awash National Park. These lions are a distinct subspecies known for their darker manes. These rare lions are critically endangered due to habitat loss and historical hunting pressures. To see these lions in person, chat to our experts, who can advise on the best time to travel and which lodges offer easy access to seeing them when they come out of the forests.
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is open for submissions. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2025 to midnight on 30 April 2025. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in early June 2025.
Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
Pillaging Kenya’s wildlife + penguin victory + feast of photos
The African penguin just scored a major legal victory – because even birds need good lawyers and scientists on their side! After years of wrangling, BirdLife South Africa and SANCCOB have secured a huge win for South Africa’s penguins. The hard-won court order issued by the Pretoria High Court following a settlement agreement forces commercial fisheries to keep their hands off the fish around six key African penguin colonies: Dassen Island, Robben Island, Stony Point, Dyer Island, St Croix Island and Bird Island. Translation? More fish for these tuxedoed treasures and a fighting chance to dodge extinction. With a decade-long fishing ban around key breeding colonies, the penguins might just waddle their way back from the brink. It’s a win for conservation, a loss for overfishing, and a reminder that sometimes, persistence (and a good legal team) pays off!
This week, we bring you an in-depth investigation from northern Kenya, where rampant poaching & wildlife trafficking are threatening endangered species such as reticulated giraffes, hirolas & cheetahs. Read our story below. And, we bring you the top toe-curling photos from Week 5 of Photographer of the Year – yet another fabulously raw African photo fiesta.
Taryn van Jaarsveld – Editor, Africa Geographic
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Story 1 PILLAGING KENYA
Poaching & wildlife trafficking in northern Kenya are driving endangered species to the brink
Story 2 FABULOUS PHOTOS
Photographer of the Year 2025 is here! Enter for a chance to win a safari to Odzala-Kokoua NP
TRAVEL DESK:
Our top picks for you this week: two epic Zambian safaris
This safari visits central and northern Kafue National Park, Zambia – teeming with predators and vast herds of lechwe, buffalo and elephants. You’ll explore the Kafue River, vast stretches of river valleys, and the swampy floodplains of Busanga Plains, which are brimful with big cats, their prey, and prolific bird life. Enjoy daily guided activities, including game drives, walking safaris, and boating.
A luxury safari in Zambia, where comfort meets extraordinary wildlife encounters in Lower Zambezi and South Luangwa National Parks – two of the country’s top safari destinations. Indulge in bespoke service, breathtaking landscapes, and intimate wildlife experiences, all while enjoying seamless luxury and discreet, attentive hospitality. This safari is an unforgettable journey and the ultimate safari escape.
Seasoned safari guest Cindy sent us a message that perfectly captures the magic of being part of the AG safari tribe:
“I was already a veteran Africa safari traveller by the time I booked with Africa Geographic recently. I had spent every year since 1996 self-driving with my late husband, and then solo from 2015. My first travel agency experience before finding AG was not overwhelming. My past travel experience made me a more difficult customer, not an easier one! I had high expectations and wanted personal service. When I signed up for a safari with AG, I soon found I had found my home. My first booking was for a Serengeti safari. I was hesitant at first, having read so much about overcrowding, out-of-control tourists, and mediocre accommodation. I needn’t have worried. AG safari expert Christian Boix set me up with a perfect trip and I enjoyed every minute.
Next was a revisit to Tswalu and Londolozi. Although I had been to both already, Christian went the extra mile for me, smoothed my travel from beginning to end, and not one thing went wrong. Next up will be Kenya, a trip I have been longing to do for years, and I have no doubt that the meticulous planning Christian has done for me will make for a grand success. I can’t wait!”
WATCH: Walking in the bushveld with an experienced guide is a great way to learn about the detail of nature. You will be shown the tell-tale signs that animals leave when they pass by and evidence of violent encounters between predators and prey. And because you are not in a vehicle, your senses will be alert to the sounds and smells we miss on game drive – a thrilling experience. Spend a minute or two enjoying a few visuals of what you can expect on a Kruger walking safari. (01:40) Click here to watch
In the remote landscapes of northern Kenya, an alarming wave of poaching and smuggling is pushing iconic wildlife species toward the brink. From reticulated giraffes to hirolas and cheetahs, various endangered species are risking local extinction. A dangerous mix of armed poacher gangs, wildlife trafficking networks, and regional instability is fueling the crisis. With bushmeat demand rising and wildlife smuggling funding militia groups, conservationists warn that urgent action is needed to prevent local extinctions. Noor Ali reports
Abdi Mohamed Dubow Liban was a 16-year-old boy when he first witnessed poachers shoot dead an elephant while herding camels in Kenya’s Wajir South, bordering Somalia. Liban, now 72, says that, all those years ago, the family’s livestock interacted with different wildlife, including elephants, giraffes, and rhinos. They all lived peacefully until poacher gangs descended into the region bordering Somalia and Ethiopia in the 1970s. He says the poachers wreaked havoc, slaughtered hundreds of elephants, and forced the few that survived to escape for safety. He expressed fears of a repeat of the 1970s–1980s poaching scenario, which reached an alarming level that saw Kenya lose half of its elephant population, prompting the country to ban the ivory trade in 1973.
“Poachers shot dead an elephant close to a spot where I was herding livestock at a grazing field along the Isiolo-Wajir county border,” Liban says, vividly recalling his first encounter with poachers in 1970. “They killed elephants and rhinos along the Ewaso Ngiro River like rats, and poaching became the norm until the last, lucky ones that survived the butchering escaped far away to central Kenya,” he recalls.
That was the last time elephants and rhinos were present in their masses along Kenya’s Lorian Swamp in Wajir South, an area stretching from Isiolo to Wajir and Somalia, says the elderly man, who recently took part in a demonstration to protest the latest wave of poaching after 14 giraffes were killed in the area around Sabuli Wildlife Conservancy, south of Wajir County.
Liban is emphatic that the government must act and stop the massive decimation of wildlife species like reticulated giraffes, antelope, and Somali ostriches. These wildlife, he says, must be protected from poacher gangs operating along the Kenya-Somalia border, warlords, agents of terrorists, and the devastating effects of climate change and recurring droughts.
Somali ostriches in northern Kenya
“We don’t have ostriches here anymore. They were captured, consumed, and sold at the Dadaab refugee camp and across the border in Somalia,” says Liban. “It’s a really sad, scary moment. Many have been hunted and killed for their meat, and many are dying due to drought. I am afraid some of my grandchildren and great-grandchildren won’t be able to see them.”
In the past three years, he has watched thirsty, emaciated wildlife collapse and die due to thirst and hunger resulting from drought. Liban says, “I have walked past giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, and antelope carcasses strewn all over the place in the remote grazing fields. In the last few years, they have been dying from starvation and dehydration,” he says of his experience in the midst of the recent drought, one that killed masses of wildlife.
The rise of poaching in Northern Kenya
Residents from the vast region bordering Somalia and Ethiopia, which has suffered a spate of terror attacks from Al-Shabaab terrorists, lament the presence of armed poachers killing dozens of wildlife.
Mukhtar Noor, a local community conservationist from Biyamadow, warned that giraffes, ostriches, gazelles, hirolas, and predators are facing the threat of local extinction if the government delays acting in time to protect the remaining few.
“The poachers are butchering giraffes, gazelles, ostriches, zebras, dik-diks, quails, and antelopes in droves. Many are dying from drought and strange diseases. We are losing the majority of them to game meat poaching,” he says. Snares used by poachers, he says, are a threat to livestock and have inflicted serious injuries and even killed many goats and camels. The barbed wire snares are set up close to water points, grazing fields, and areas with shrubs and shade, which are common spots for both wild and domestic animals, he added.
According to conservation organisations operating across the border region, reticulated giraffes are being depleted at an alarming rate, making them the most poached and endangered wildlife species in the area. Conservationists warn that the reticulated giraffe population endemic to the region has drastically reduced by 50% over just the past 30 years – from 36,000 to only 15,950 today. The widespread poaching of reticulated giraffes led to their inclusion on the IUCN Red List and their classification as Endangered in 2018.
Antelope such as hirola, numbering between 245-400 in the wild today and classified as critically endangered, are also being targeted in the latest wave of poaching in Kenya. Some of the key factors that have spurred giraffe poaching and its decline include regional instability, terrorism, ethnic fighting, and a growing belief that giraffe body parts can cure HIV/AIDS and boost male libido.
NECA CEO Sharmake Mohamed says the surge in poaching in Kenya has been fanned by the myth that bushmeat offers relief to terminal illnesses and by the quest to avoid veterinary medicine-contaminated livestock meat, which is blamed for lifestyle-linked diseases like high blood pressure, diabetes, and HIV/AIDS infections. The local conservation organisation recorded at least 76 reticulated giraffe poaching incidents between July and September 2024, during which 14 giraffes were killed in a single raid. Local rangers estimate that around 10 giraffes and dozens of antelopes are killed each day across the border counties of Garissa, Wajir, Mandera, Marsabit, and Tana River, primarily for their meat.
“A significant portion of giraffe meat, and ostrich meat and eggs are sold at Dadaab refugee camp, large quantities are smuggled into Somalia, and some are being delivered to Al-Shabaab militants,” Mohamed says. This is confirmed by other sources, including local chiefs. “The rest of the game meat is sold locally in villages, while some is transported to Nairobi and Mombasa,” he added.
Mohamed, who is also an honorary warden of Sabuli Wildlife Conservancy in Wajir, says dozens of lions and hyenas are being killed in worsening cases of human-wildlife conflict and retaliatory attacks. “Game meat business and smuggling of wildlife,” he says, “are believed to be a source of funds for militia group operations across the border in Somalia.”
Preventing the depletion of Kenya’s wildlife heritage is a daunting task, requiring action against heavily armed and dangerous poachers linked to war-torn Somalia and Ethiopia. He added that Sabuli has 30 community scouts who conduct patrols and work with local youths and elders to speak out against the bushmeat trade, poaching, and consumption. They also deliver hay and water to wildlife across the area during drought periods. He disclosed that more than 200 animals were lost due to the severe drought experienced three years ago in Wajir South alone.
And there is another disturbing trend arising in the region: Local conservation organisations are deeply disturbed by the alarming surge in wildlife smuggling and the trafficking of cheetahs and lion cubs from the region to Somalia, Ethiopia, and the Arabian Peninsula states, including the UAE, Saudi Arabia, Qatar, and Yemen. Cheetahs and lion cubs are illegally smuggled out to locations where they are kept as status symbol pets.
Of around 6,500 wild cheetahs in Africa, fewer than 1,000 cheetahs remain in Kenya. A security officer working with a local community conservation group in Wajir South (who preferred not to be named) says that lions and cheetahs smuggled from the region are sold to different markets in Somalia and Ethiopia. The smuggling of cheetahs and lion cubs is driven by demand from warlords and clan militias, for whom keeping these animals as pets has become a status symbol. The animals are also used to torment and torture captives and critics.
One man, Ebrahim*, a reformed poacher who now works as a wildlife scout, confessed that he made a fortune selling three lion cubs and six cheetah cubs to Somali traders and agents of the Al-Shabaab terror group between 2021 and 2022. “I dropped out of high school due to a lack of fees and tried to join the army and police, but I was unsuccessful because they don’t recruit dropouts. A friend introduced me to the game-meat trade and the smuggling of cheetahs and lion cubs,” he says.
A single cheetah cub could sell for $500, while a group of three or more cheetahs earns $800 per cub, Ebrahim says. He admitted to killing the mothers of lion cubs to capture them, after monitoring newborn cubs for over a month. He eventually decided to quit after receiving reports of his impending arrest or possible killing by rangers and security personnel. “I was fed up with living as a fugitive. I was more hunted than the wildlife I was hunting, which forced me into drug abuse to stay awake and alert to avoid arrest,” says Ebrahim, who took advantage of an amnesty granted to local poachers and surrendered to avoid the same fate as the many wild animals he had killed.
Kenya conservation efforts and poaching challenges
Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS), however, says all hope is not lost. They have implemented a series of measures to combat the increasing cases of bushmeat trafficking and the poaching of cheetahs and lions, which have been linked to the presence of Al-Shabaab and poacher gangs operating in the expansive border area.
Commanders in charge say the agency has made significant strides in combating wildlife crimes, which they describe as a serious security threat that undermines conservation efforts and exacerbates regional instability. KWS regional senior warden Jacob Ilo Orahle says heightened surveillance and a series of sting operations in recent months have helped contain the situation.
Once a common sight in northern Kenya, reticulated giraffes now face a dire future as poaching and habitat loss drive them toward extinction
Ilo Orahle says, “more than ten poachers, including two of the most notorious on our wanted list who were responsible for the killing of 70 giraffes, have been killed,” since early 2024. In a recent case, Ilo Orahle, says, “rangers shot dead a poacher after he had killed a giraffe”.
KWS has adopted a multifaceted approach to tackling the crisis by engaging local communities, NGOs, and all state security agencies. A new patrol base has been established at a poaching hotspot in Shantaabaq, along the Wajir and Garissa county border, to crack down on cross-border poachers and locals engaged in illegal hunting. A team of rangers is now working jointly with the police, special border patrol, Rapid Deployment Unit personnel, and the military to contain the vice and stop smuggling to the Dadaab refugee camp and along the Kenya-Somalia border. Stepped-up intelligence gathering has enabled the agency to foil several poaching attempts and intercept deliveries of bushmeat.
The agency was scheduled to hold a series of public meetings at the Dadaab refugee camp. Multiple security sources believe the surge in bushmeat poaching is one of the Somali-based Al-Shabaab terrorist group’s expanded business ventures, aimed at sustaining its income.
“For a long time, Al-Shabaab funded its operations through the charcoal trade and human trafficking. Now, it is heavily involved in game meat and wildlife smuggling,” says a security official in Garissa County, eastern Kenya. Ragtag militias, independent poacher gangs, and Al-Shabaab have intensified their activities, taking advantage of the near absence of security forces in vast parts of northern Kenya to deplete wildlife with impunity, according to security officials.
Near the Ethiopian border, Jima Wildlife Conservancy has reported a significant number of cheetahs being captured and smuggled to Ethiopia and Somaliland for onward delivery to the Arabian Peninsula. “Recently, two herders stumbled upon four snared cheetahs. They were rescued after the incident was reported to a local chief,” says Abdullahi Ibrahim, patron of the conservancy group. “Giraffes, zebras, guinea fowl, gazelles, gerenuks, and dik-diks from Kenya are sold at Kadaduma Market in Ethiopia, which specialises in bushmeat. They wiped out their own wildlife years ago, so now they cross into Kenya to replenish their stocks,” he added.
Giraffe skins are also used to make water containers and ornaments, and hair from their tails is used for stitches in female circumcision (FGM) procedures.
A giraffe skull in Isiolo
Abdullahi Ibrahim further revealed that locals in Wajir County recently shot dead two male lions at a Gurar grazing field after the animals allegedly mauled livestock. He says human-wildlife conflict incidents are exacerbated by habitat loss.
Protecting rare wildlife species in northern Kenya requires a unique set of strategies, he argues, and cannot be achieved solely by arming locals to fight poachers.
“Neglect of this region, which has suffered from water shortages for six decades since independence, is to blame. We must build more water pans and boreholes to provide for both livestock and wildlife,” he says. He also blamed Ethiopia’s Oromo Liberation Army rebels for widespread poaching in Marsabit County, Kenya, from where they operate and stage frequent attacks in southern Ethiopia.
Mohamed Nur, a member of the conservancy group, regrets that the Somali ostrich has been completely wiped out in the area due to false claims that its fat and eggs can eliminate HIV, boost libido, and serve as a lucky charm. “Bushmeat dealers are masters of deceit. They spread falsehoods, claiming it is an effective alternative medicine and a natural remedy for terminal illnesses like diabetes and high blood pressure,” he says.
Abdi Shabo, from the Protection and Conservation of Endangered Species (PCONES) in Isiolo, blamed the neglect of the region and its exclusion from national conservation efforts for the rampant poaching in northern Kenya. He pointed out that conservation in Kenya is concentrated in popular tourist destinations, while most wildlife lives in unprotected areas.
“Our people have nothing to gain from wildlife apart from losing livestock and loved ones in human-wildlife conflicts. The crisis must be declared a national disaster, and resources must be mobilised to protect wildlife across northern Kenya,” he says.
An urgent call to protect Kenya’s wildlife
Kalapta Epuyo, an Isiolo Peace Net initiative campaigner, notes that recurring conflicts and frequent droughts have driven many people, especially youths, into desperation.
“Wildlife poaching has surged across the region in recent years due to prolonged drought and massive livestock deaths. Locals engage in poaching for survival, to escape hunger, and to restock their livestock lost to banditry and drought,” he says. Wajir South MP Mohamed Adow criticises the manner in which poacher gangs have been left to operate with impunity, calling on the UNHCR to provide alternative fuel sources for refugees at Dadaab to curb firewood harvesting, which contributes to habitat destruction and bushmeat consumption.
Kenya’s drought assessment report, released by the Ministry of Tourism and Wildlife in early 2023, indicated that the country lost hundreds of wildlife due to the worst drought in recent history. However, conservation efforts have boosted elephant numbers, now growing at 5% annually, reaching 36,000 from a historic low of 16,000 in 1989. Kenyan journalist Issa Husein, who is also actively involved in wildlife and environmental campaigns, is disturbed by the fact that Kenya’s conservation efforts and resources are being wasted and reversed by neighbouring countries.
“Our wildlife are killed to feed foreign markets in Somalia and Ethiopia. Down south, in Kenya, our elephants – the tuskers – are hunted and killed by trophy hunters in Tanzania. Our enemies and threats are well known; they must be confronted and stopped,” says Hussein.
The fight against wildlife poaching in northern Kenya is a battle for survival—not just for the region’s endangered species, but for the ecosystems and communities that depend on them. Strengthening conservation efforts, improving security, and addressing the root causes of poaching are critical steps in protecting these species for future generations.
*Not his real name.
Further reading
The giraffe is a wonder of evolution, and a vital part of Africa’s ecosystems. Read all there is to know about the planet’s tallest creature. Read more about giraffes here.
Researchers say there are four species and seven subspecies the correct division. Check out the research.
Cheetah Conservation Fund data analysis confirms social media’s role in advertising illegal wildlife trade, including trafficking of cheetahs for illegal pet trade. Read more here.
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is open for submissions. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2025 to midnight on 30 April 2025. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in early June 2025.
Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
Congo ghosts caught on camera 🐆 + phenomenal pics + honeymoon safari
With humans going through an angry phase, I regularly take a mental step away from the craziness – to remind myself why our brief existence on this mortal coil is so precious.
I am profoundly grateful to be able to watch the stunning black-collared barbets working the freshly fruiting Lowveld fig tree 20m to my west, smell rain in the air, hear a kudu alarm bark and taste my sunrise coffee. Join me in celebrating these little things – the Greatest Show on Earth. Each of you will have your own version of these gifts – seek and enjoy …
That’s all I want to say this week. Thanks for listening; keep the passion.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
I LOVE sharing great conservation news with you!
A century after its discovery, the Wolkberg Zulu butterfly is finally getting the legal protection it desperately needs. This tiny, rock-lichen-eating butterfly, found only in two high-altitude patches of Limpopo’s Wolkberg Mountains, is now safeguarded under South Africa’s first conservation servitude for a threatened butterfly. Thanks to a passionate landowner and a team of conservationists, including the Lepidopterists’ Society of Africa and the Endangered Wildlife Trust, this fluttering gem has a fighting chance. A big win for conservation, and hopefully, the first of many! A perfect display of passion, skill and dedication coming together to save a country’s natural heritage.
It’s now Week 4 of Photographer of the Year 2025, and this week brings a selection of untamed, raw and breathtaking pics. Check out our gallery of entries for this week. Plus, we share some truly astonishing photos from the heart of Congo-Brazzaville’s Nouabalé-Ndoki NP, where Will Burrard-Lucas’s camera trapping skills have brought us rare images of epic forest creatures. Check out the story below.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Story 1 CONGO’S GHOSTS
Stunning high-definition camera trap images reveal Nouabalé-Ndoki’s hidden creatures, including golden cat, leopard and palm civet
Story 2 UNTAMED PICS
Our Week 4 Photographer of the Year 2025 selection is here! Enter for a chance to win a safari to Odzala-Kokoua NP
This walking safari tracks the wise old elephant herds as they follow the Galana River through Tsavo National Park, Kenya. Sharing the elephants’ home on equal footing and encountering the famous Tsavo maneless lions, gerenuks and hirolas (the world’s rarest antelope) will supersede any previous game-viewing experiences you’ve had. Stay in beautiful tented camps harking back to a bygone era, and explore the surroundings on game drives in the afternoons. The perfect balance between comfort and adventure.
Celebrate your love with a five-day safari atop the Oloololo Escarpment, overlooking the stunning Mara Triangle at Angama Mara. Enjoy a private guide and vehicle, a one-hour photoshoot, and a Maasai blessing, plus gourmet cuisine, luxury lodging, and epic game drives. A honeymoon to remember!
“Leonie at Africa Geographiccreated a fantastic itinerary for us: 11 days, from Uganda and Bwindi to Nairobi and Maasai Mara (Kenya). We had an amazing time – any small hiccups were dealt with and sorted quickly. Highly recommended.” – Barry Eichmann gave teamAG a 5-star review.
WATCH: Ukuri offers safari camps for responsible travellers to Africa. Check out this short video showcasing what Ukuri is all about. (0:29) Click here to watch
Deep in the heart of the Congo Basin, amidst the dense rainforests of Nouabalé-Ndoki National Park, photographer Will Burrard-Lucas embarked on a mission: to unveil the hidden lives of the forest’s most elusive creatures. Through a year-long camera-trapping project, Burrard-Lucas, with the support of the Wildlife Conservation Society, has captured rare, high-definition images of the park’s remarkable wildlife. His feats include capturing images of the rarely seen African golden cat, and the forest’s apex predator: the enigmatic leopard.
Secrets of the Nouabalé-Ndokirainforest
“Tropical rainforests don’t give up their secrets easily,” says Emma Stokes, vice president of Field Conservation at WCS (Wildlife Conservation Society), which has for 30 years collaborated with the Congolese Government to administer and protect the park and its buffer zone. “You can spend years walking through these forests without seeing much of the extraordinary wildlife that lives there. You only know it’s there by the signs it leaves behind.”
Nouabalé-Ndoki, a pristine wilderness in northern Congo-Brazzaville, is one of the last untouched refuges for many rare species. Its towering trees, murky swamps, and dense undergrowth provide sanctuary for creatures seldom seen: red river hogs, duikers, golden cats, and, of course, the ever-elusive leopard. For Burrard-Lucas, it was the ultimate challenge. “The parks stands as one of the best examples of a pristine forest ecosystem in the Congo Basin. There are no roads within Nouabalé-Ndoki, the trees have never been logged, and the interior still harbours animals that have had little or no contact with people,” he says.
“Wherever you go, you get the sense that wildlife lurks just out of sight, behind the veil of vegetation,” he explains. “One of the animals that I was most keen to photograph was a leopard… The mere possibility of capturing a photograph of such an elusive creature was incredibly exciting.”
A forest elephant drinks from a baï
Heart of the forest
Burrard-Lucas’ journey to Nouabalé-Ndoki was no easy feat. After a gruelling 12-hour drive from Brazzaville to Ouesso, he continued by boat up the Sangha River to Bomassa, to the park’s headquarters. From there, a 21km trek through waist-deep swamps – guided by expert Bayaka trackers – was required to reach the remote research camps where his Camtraption camera traps would be set. And navigating the forest comes with its own challenges, such as stumbling on elephants that are well-concealed by the forest, and needing to keep an eye out for western lowland gorillas. “Occasionally, as you traipse through the forest, you might surprise a silverback gorilla, and he will explode out of a thicket so suddenly, screaming so loudly, that it makes your hair stand on end and your heart pound out of your chest,” says Burrard-Lucas.
From bad-tempered elephants to colonies of ants devouring rubber seals and intense humidity, the camera traps had their challengesWhile in Mondika, Burrard-Lucas joined researchers to photograph western lowland gorillas in personWestern lowland gorillas spotted in the treetops
Throughout the project, cameras were set at three research sites, including at Mbeli Baï, Goualougo and Mondika on the Central African Republic border.
Once in place, the camera traps faced their challenges. “Bad-tempered elephants dismantled set-ups, colonies of ants devoured rubber seals, and the intense humidity quickly took its toll on anything that wasn’t meticulously sealed,” Burrard-Lucas recalls. Yet, despite the hardships, the project delivered stunning results.
A forest elephant in a clearing in Nouabalé-Ndoki
Capturing the unseen of Nouabalé-Ndoki
The project yielded photos of many rainforest rarities, including water chevrotain, yellow-backed duiker, black-footed mongoose, red river hog, brush-tailed porcupine, Peter’s duiker, African palm civet, giant pangolin, blue duiker, forest buffalo and forest elephants. Among the highlights was a breathtaking shot of an African golden cat – one of Africa’s rarest and most elusive felines. This marked the first time the species had been captured in high definition in the wild in Congo.
This photo of an African golden cat captured by camera trap was a crowning achievement for Burrard-Lucas
But the crowning achievement was a single, electrifying image: a male leopard captured prowling a secluded trail near Mbeli Baï. “It was a large male, captured on a secluded trail near Mbeli Baï… and without a doubt, the most magnificent specimen I have ever photographed,” says Burrard-Lucas.
Local trackers and researchers played a crucial role in identifying the best locations for these camera traps.
“These photos are amazing,” says Seraphin Ngouna, who works on one of the park’s research sites and belongs to a community native to the forest. Ngouna, who maintained the cameras in the field, says, “I’m even happier to know these pictures will be published for other people to see.”
“It was a large male, captured on a secluded trail near Mbeli Baï… and without a doubt, the most magnificent specimen I have ever photographed.”
Conservation through imagery
While scientific camera traps are often used to measure wildlife abundance, Burrard-Lucas’ high-definition images do more than this: they connect people to these hidden ecosystems and inspire conservation efforts.
“These photos celebrate unseen wildlife and call for action to protect it,” says Sabine Plattner, owner of Kamba Africa, which partnered with the U.S. Agency for International Development (USAID) and the Nouabalé-Ndoki tourism development program to initiate the project with the photographer. “Through these images, visitors can see what life is like in the forest and the type of animals that inhabit it.”
Amongst some of the finds captured by the camera traps was a chimpanzee mother “fishing for termites” at a termite mound in Goualougo while sitting with her baby (details and pictures of which are yet to be published by WCS). This fishing technique entails chimpanzees placing a stick into the mound and waiting for termites to cling to it before eating them. “The resulting photos of her feeding while her baby watched – the passing on of this specialised technique from one generation to the next – made all the hard work worthwhile.”
From documenting termite-fishing chimpanzees to capturing the raw power of a rainforest storm, the camera-trap project offers a rare window into the wild heart of Africa. “Many of the animals photographed remain poorly studied, yet their survival is already threatened by habitat loss,” says Burrard-Lucas. “Every image is both a celebration of the forest’s richness and a reminder of what is at stake if these ecosystems are not safeguarded.”
Yet, as Burrard-Lucas acknowledges, this is only the beginning.
“Even in a place as rich in wildlife as Nouabalé-Ndoki, some creatures remain almost mythical – ghosts of the forest, rarely glimpsed even by those who know it best,” he reflects. “I guess there’s nothing for it but to return one day and see what additional secrets the rainforest might yield.”
Forest elephants captured in the heart of the forestRed river hog photographed by a camera trapAn African palm civet traverses a forest trailA forest buffalo comes for a drink at a pool
Peter’s duikerA blue duiker sets off the camera trapA majestic and stealthy forest elephantWater chevrotainA brush-tailed porcupine caught mid-scurryBlack-footed mongooseYellow-backed duiker, a near-threatened antelope of the forestAn endangered giant pangolin, captured fleetingly on camera
You, too, can enjoy an epic safari to the heart of Congo-Brazzaville’s rainforests. Odzala-Kokoua National Park encompasses rainforest that is more readily accessible. Keen to find lowland gorillas, forest elephants, bongos and much more? Check out our ready-made gorilla safaris to Odzala-Kokoua here.
Further reading
Western lowland gorillas, forest elephants & more. Odzala-Kokoua NP is another of Congo-Brazzaville’s rainforest kingdoms – for an African safari with a difference.
Forest elephant numbers are believed to have plummeted 86% in just 31 years yet their role in maintaining forest ecosystems is critical. Read more about forest elephants.
Research has uncovered population density declines of 90% for forest elephants across Africa in 53 years. Read more here.
A sojourn in Congo-Brazzaville brings Simon Espley face to face with a paradise of forest elephants, western lowland gorillas & forest baïs. Read about his trip to Odzala-Kokoua NP here.
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is open for submissions. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2025 to midnight on 30 April 2025. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in early June 2025.
Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
Hoedspruit’s 140 leopards + photo feast + our big news
I am SO PROUD right now!
We have arrived at the next stage of Ukuri’s journey towards consequential significance for Africa’s vast remote areas. Ukuri – an Africa Geographic group company – now allows you to book your adventure in one of African Parks’ wilderness camps online, in real-time – using our handy booking tool.
You can now easily plan your adventure – be that in Bangweulu Wetlands and Liuwa Plain in Zambia, Odzala-Kokoua in Congo-Brazzaville, or Liwonde, Nkhotakota and Majete in Malawi. The coming months will see more camp options added – from African Parks and other protected area managers where wildlife and local communities benefit significantly from the camps and lodges.
I won’t bore you with the technical details of this announcement – we have been under the hood for a year. Suffice to say you will not find the same standard of helpful info about these epic parks and camps anywhere else, and the booking process is intuitive and easy. Check out this example of one of Ukuri’s camps – Shoebill Island Camp in Zambia’s Bangweulu Wetlands, home to shoebills and the only wild black lechwe population on Earth.
Onwards and upwards! Thanks for reading this
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Cape Vultures have graced the skies of the Eastern Cape for the first time in 30 years – yet more proof that nature has a flair for dramatic comebacks. Over 80 wild vultures were spotted near Mountain Zebra National Park, and conservationists are practically doing cartwheels. Many vulture species are teetering on the edge due to habitat loss, collisions with energy infrastructure, poisoning, trade in vultures for belief-based purposes, and negative public perception. But, this reappearance in the Eastern Cape could be a sign that these feathered clean-up crews are making a slow but steady return. As Kerri Wolter from Vulpro – which recently moved their rehabilitation centre to Shamwari in the Eastern Cape – says, vultures are starting to return to their historical roosting sites. “Vultures are nature’s misunderstood heroes. By recognising them as crucial ecological guardians we can re-write the story around vultures and inspire meaningful conservation.” So, here’s to vultures – those disease-fighting, eco-friendly waste disposal warriors of the wilderness. Let’s hope this is a sign they’re back in business and soaring high!
This week’s Photographer of the Year selection is a feast for the senses: life-or-death moments, wild drama and grit captured in breathtaking detail. Dive in below. And then we look at the many, many leopards of Hoedspruit – South Africa’s ever-growing bushveld town on the border of Greater Kruger. We examine their fascinating movements, the threats they face and the people working to save them.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Story 1 HOEDSPRUIT’S LEOPARDS
Discover how the Ingwe Research Program studies Hoedspruit’s leopards, using citizen science to track them & boost conservation
Story 2 FEAST OF PHOTOS
Photographer of the Year 2025 is here! Enter for a chance to win a safari to incredible Odzala-Kokoua National Park
A 10-day luxury safari escape. Indulge in a lavish adventure through Makgadikgadi Pans, the Okavango Delta, and Moremi. Stay in exquisite lodges, enjoy helicopter flights, and witness breathtaking wildlife: all with impeccable service and gourmet dining.
Nicole’s family safari in South Africa was extraordinary – earning us a 5-star review:
“Christian did an outstanding job organising an unforgettable trip for my family and me to South Africa. We began planning our journey only two months prior to our December travel dates, and Christian created an itinerary that far exceeded our expectations. We enjoyed two incredible safaris (Manyoni Private Game Reserve and iSimangaliso Wetland Park) over the course of eight nights, which struck the perfect balance between family-friendly and fun experiences for adults. Following the safaris, we spent four nights in Cape Town, soaking in the city’s beauty and culture, before embarking on a breathtaking tour of the Garden Route. Thanks to Christian’s expertise, we had an extraordinary experience. I recommend his services for anyone looking to explore South Africa in a truly memorable way.”
WATCH: Where do the leopards go when they leave Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate in South Africa? Safari expert Villiers Steyn finds out, chatting to Ingwe Leopard Program’s Marine Servonnat. (12:20) Click here to watch
Leopards are survivors. They are highly adaptable to change, opportunistic regarding food resources (empowered by a relaxed approach to sustenance), and have vast home ranges. Their natural tendency towards secrecy allows them to remain undetected and unseen even when ever-present. But with urbanisation enveloping even some of the most rural areas in South Africa, safe spaces for leopards are shrinking. In the bushveld town of Hoedspruit, a formerly rural area that has seen rapid expansion over the past few years, leopards are struggling to slip past the modern world unscathed. Enter the Ingwe Research Program, an initiative determined to untangle the fate of Hoedspruit’s leopards and their precarious coexistence with humans.
The program aims to study leopard distribution in a 325km2 area, including non-protected areas between two conservation areas: Greater Kruger in the east and the Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve in the west. Through research, the program is assessing the spatial distribution of leopards through environmental characteristics and anthropogenic factors to understand how they influence leopards’ habitat use and movements.
So far, 140 leopards from Hoedspruit have been fully identified by the program, but many still have temporary IDs and require more pictures to complete a unique identikit.
What is the secret to Ingwe’s ability to gather such detailed information? The people of Hoedspruit themselves. Thanks to the program’s focus on collaborating with reserves, lodges, wildlife estates and ordinary citizens, Ingwe has a comprehensive overview of the movements of Hoedspruit’s leopards. Ingwe has been gathering data on leopards in the area since 2022.
“Over 380 citizen scientists have shared their leopard sightings with the NPC. Citizen science is an invaluable tool for species conservation,” says Marine Servonnat, executive director of the Ingwe Research Program.
With such a collaborative network, Ingwe can understand leopards’ movements and numbers at a much larger scale.
Citizen scientists, including residents, tourists and safari guides, can document leopard sightings via a conservation mobile app known as SMART. These contributions feed into the African Carnivore Wildbook (ACW), an AI-powered platform that matches leopard spot patterns, providing researchers with invaluable movement data. ACW facilitates analysis from 11,000+ images already received from over 7,000 unique sightings.
In addition to the 140 leopards identified in Hoedspruit, the program has also identified 65 leopards from Greater Kruger (some of which you may have come across on a Greater Kruger safari), which form part of the research that will analyse population trends in various reserves with different characteristics situated inside and outside of formally protected areas.
This information, coupled with the information from non-protected areas, helps track changes in species populations and identify trends that may indicate threats or conservation successes.
Home ranges of some of Hoedspruit’s male leopards
Seen to be believed
The researchers have also come across some fascinating tales in their findings.
One leopard, the “Wild Dog Dam male”, bewildered researchers due to his wanderlust. First sighted in the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, he meandered 30km west to Excellence Game Farm, only to backtrack 25km east within two hours. A month later, he appeared another 25km south in Olifants West Nature Reserve, leaving researchers scratching their heads – and marvelling at the incredible power of shared data.
“If this information was not compiled under one project and the data not shared, one could think these were three different male leopards. This is very important to help streamline the number of individuals in the area and understand how the leopards move,” says Servonnat.
The Wild Dog Dam male leopard
The data has also allayed fears when well-known leopards have disappeared. Tlanga, a leopard born in the Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate in early 2020, dispersed in 2023 and vanished for seven months before popping up as a relaxed new resident in Kapama Game Reserve.
Then there’s Ntsakelo, also born in Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate. Ntsakelo was a particularly bold young male who thought nothing of sauntering through human-dominated spaces until he, too, mysteriously disappeared for four months – leaving researchers nervously checking roadkill reports. Thankfully, he resurfaced on a citrus farm, looking none the worse for wear.
These stories form the heart of Ingwe’s scientific mission: to understand where leopards go and how they navigate human-dominated landscapes.
Leopard Ntsakelo, born in the Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate and a known wanderer
A road runs through it: the perils of Hoedspruit’s R40
Most pressingly, Ingwe is trying to solve a dilemma on behalf of Hoedspruit’s leopards: how to keep them from becoming casualties of progress.
Hoedspruit’s R40 provincial road is a lifeline connecting local communities, towns and reserves. Unfortunately, it’s also a death trap for wildlife. Seven leopards were killed in just 10 months in 2024 due to collisions with cars on the region’s roads, including the R40, alongside countless hyenas, jackals, and wild dogs. One leopard was killed by a train in the same period.
One of the leopards killed on the R40 provincial road
The Road Ecology Project, spearheaded by Ingwe in partnership with sponsor AirNav Systems, aims to turn this tide. Through this initiative, researchers are methodically identifying roadkill hotspots, assessing underpasses and culverts, and using a citizen science network to track leopard crossings. Armed with this data, the program will implement tangible solutions – including reinforced culverts, enhanced crossing points, and new signage to prevent further deaths.
The bigger picture: protecting Hoedspruit’s leopards
Ingwe’s work goes beyond keeping leopards off roads. The program is a conservation think tank exploring how leopards move through non-protected areas, how human-wildlife coexistence can be improved, and how to create ecological corridors between South Africa’s great wilderness spaces, improving connectivity and the safe dispersal of wildlife.
The program is helping to reduce a research gap as 85% of leopard research in South Africa takes place inside protected areas, even though leopards mainly occur outside of protected areas.
The challenge, of course, is funding. High-tech camera traps, fuel, trained researchers, and long-term monitoring require support.
Ultimately, the fate of Hoedspruit’s leopards isn’t just in the hands of researchers – it’s in the hands of residents, travellers, and conservation enthusiasts who value a world where these magnificent cats still roam free.
The Ingwe Research Program offers multiple ways to contribute – from becoming a citizen scientist and logging leopard sightings to donating, sponsoring equipment or projects, or raising awareness – there are many ways that ordinary people can help.
Because a world without leopards? Now, that would be truly unthinkable.
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is open for submissions. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2025 to midnight on 30 April 2025. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in early June 2025.
Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week
This is why I stopped photographing wildlife while on safari.
Kwando Reserve, Botswana. It was a hot dry-season day, and we were parked in a copse of almost-bare mopane trees. About 30m away, a huge, venerable kudu bull fought for his life. Backed into a blue bush, he was surrounded by a pack of wild dogs. Each time one of these incredible hunters made a dart at him, he slashed his white-tipped horns in an arc. They were patient, and so was he. More than two exhausting hours later, he made his cautious escape while the dogs rested nearby in a rare pool of shade. They noticed his departure but were too fatigued to do anything about it.
Our game-drive vehicle had a mix of keen amateur photographers and people like me who take the odd snap on their mobile phones. Throughout the drama, the photographers were griping about the harsh sun overhead, shrubbery getting in the way of their shot, and having left a more suitable lens at home. For me, two hours felt like minutes as I absorbed every moment as this courageous kudu defied the odds and lived to see another day, and the dogs used every ounce of their cunning and athleticism to secure a meal – at risk of injury or even death. What an epic occasion to be in the moment and not distracted by technology.
Of course, wildlife photography helps us celebrate nature’s wonders (our Photographer of the Year is a testament to that) – and we are all voyeurs, living vicariously through those evocative images that tell Africa’s stories. But while on safari, I choose to be totally in the moment. Each to their own. Many professional wildlife photographers I meet out there have learned when to put the camera down so they can ply their trade and also enjoy the moments for what they are – nature revealing her secrets and sometimes showing off.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Flying lessons, but make it wild! For 300 years, the northern bald ibis forgot how to migrate. Until humans stepped in, using a small aircraft and foster parents to teach the birds how to migrate again. With their bald red heads, long curved beaks and quirky greeting rituals, these gregarious birds were once widespread across North Africa, the Arabian Peninsula, and Europe. But until recently, they have been extinct in Europe, and had only one stable population in Morocco. Breeding efforts have worked well, but without wild ancestors to guide the ibises, they had no idea where to fly for winter. That’s when Austria’s Waldrappteam stepped in, guiding ibises cross country with the help of an ultralight aircraft, in a move influenced by the real-life Canada geese that inspired 90s film Fly Away Home. During the flights – the team have been perfecting these migrations for 20 years – human foster parents sit on the back of the microlight, waving and shouting encouragement to the birds as they fly.
Last year, 36 ibises completed a 2,800km journey from Austria to Spain. This project is helping the species reclaim lost ground beyond its African populations – one human-led migration at a time.
This week, we received news that famous Liuwa Plain lion Bon Jovi has been relocated: read more in our news story. Simon also shares his recent adventure to Hwange, during which he embarked on a conservation safari with our Photographer of the Year 2024 winners. Plus, we’ve chosen the best photos for the second week of our 2025 competition. Check these all out below.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Story 1 BON JOVI RELOCATED
Famous Liuwa Plain lion Bon Jovi has been relocated to Kafue National Park after killing cattle and becoming a threat to local villagers
Story 2 LION COLLARS & PHOTOGRAPHERS
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 winners headed on a Hwange conservation safari, handing over lion collars, visiting community projects, & exploring Zim’s wilds
Story 3 WILDEST PHOTOS
Photographer of the Year 2025 is here! Here is our selection for Week 2 of the competition. Enter for a chance to win a safari to incredible Odzala-Kokoua National Park
A luxury safari in Zambia, where comfort meets extraordinary wildlife encounters in Lower Zambezi and South Luangwa National Parks – two of the country’s top safari destinations. Indulge in bespoke service, breathtaking landscapes, and intimate wildlife experiences, all while enjoying seamless luxury and discreet, attentive hospitality. This safari is an unforgettable journey and the ultimate safari escape.
Fancy a guided photographic safari in Kenya’s Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya? Join award-winning photographer Arnfinn Johansen on this exclusive safari for four guests. Highlights include guided game drives with an experienced Maasai guide in a modified photographic vehicle, and accommodation at Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp. Departure Dates: 24 October–1 November 2025. Only 2 spots left!
The Pangolarium – a dedicated pangolin care facility – has opened in South Africa’s Lapalala Wilderness in the Waterberg. Built by the African Pangolin Working Group (APWG) in partnership with Lapalala with support from Lepogo Lodges, this groundbreaking centre provides medical care, rehabilitation, and vital research for these elusive creatures.
TeamAG’s Nadia and Sarah attended the Pangolarium’s launch, witnessing firsthand the incredible work being done to protect pangolins and experiencing conservation in action. Learn more about this crucial initiative here.
WATCH: A verdant forest paradise, and the location of our Photographer of the Year 2025 winner’s prize: Odzala-Kokoua NP in Congo-Brazzaville is a bucket-list safari spot. Western lowland gorillas, forest elephants, bongos, dwarf crocodiles, huge flocks of grey parrots & green pigeons – and much more are on offer here. Learn more about this magical part of the Congo. (05:27) Click here to watch
Travel in Africa is about knowing when and where to go, and with whom. A few weeks too early/late or a few kilometres off course, and you could miss the greatest show on Earth. And wouldn’t that be a pity?
Trust & Safety
Guest payments are processed through Flywire, a leading international payment gateway known for its high safety and security standards. Also, we are members of SATSA, who attest to our integrity, legal compliance, and financial stability.
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level.
YOUR safari choice does make a difference - thank you!
TRAVEL DESK: 
WATCH: Perhaps you have always wanted to see the Big 5 with your family, trek for mountain gorillas, or watch the drama of the Serengeti great migration, followed by sand-in-your-toes time on a white sandy beach? Or maybe you seek absolute wilderness, where it’s just you and your thoughts. Africa Geographic makes these dreams come true for you. Ask Africa Geographic to plan your next African safari. (01:06) Click here to watch
Want to visit the Okavango Delta on safari? 
Trophy hunting is one of the most polarising topics in conservation. Supporters argue that, when properly regulated, hunting can generate funding for wildlife reserves, support anti-poaching efforts, and contribute to habitat preservation. Opponents say it threatens biodiversity, disrupts ecosystems, and undermines non-consumptive tourism models. But where does the truth lie? Is trophy hunting a necessary evil, a beneficial conservation tool, or an outdated practice needing reform? To explore this debate, we turn to Timbavati Private Nature Reserve (TPNR), a key component of the Greater Kruger ecosystem in South Africa.
