Kruger is known to many as ‘the greatest place on earth’, and I’m delighted I’ll be getting my own fix in the north of the park in just two weeks’ time. (And you can too – check out our discounted rates on some epic Kruger lodges here).
As one of the most robust conservation areas in South Africa, the land encompassing Kruger National Park and Greater Kruger is home to South Africa’s greatest wildlife populations. The APNR, a collection of reserves in Greater Kruger, provides an essential tract of land for Kruger’s animals to roam. Monitoring these populations helps preserve the integrity of this important ecosystem. We delve into the latest APNR census results to highlight the fascinating ebb and flow of nature – see our first story below.
This week we also celebrate the most hardy and entertaining of animals: the magnificent hippopotamus. Jamie shares some personal encounters with the powerful and speedy beasts, and some intriguing facts shedding light on these mysterious semi-aquatic creatures. These pics and insights are guaranteed to bring lightness to your being. Check out our second story.
Happy indulging in Africa to you all!
Taryn van Jaarsveld — Editor
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
The phrase “illegal wildlife trade” immediately brings to mind things like rhino horn, ivory, pangolin scales and lion bones. But did you know that parrots are one of the most trafficked animal families in the world? Their popularity in the pet trade (along with extensive habitat loss) has meant that 60% of Earth’s Psittaciformes (parrot) species are in decline.
Take the African grey parrot, for example. They are currently listed as Endangered on the IUCN Red List and, prior to their inclusion on Appendix I of CITES in 2017, were trapped in their thousands to supply the pet trade. Fortunately, there are those dedicated to protecting remaining wild populations. Dr Rowan Martin has shared updates on the work of the World Parrot Trust on our forum. To check out the post, download our app (details below). You can also seamlessly donate to the project to support their significant contribution to parrot conservation!
Desert & delta This iconic and ever-popular 11-day safari is about water – or the lack thereof. We visit Victoria Falls, Okavango Delta, Chobe and the desolate Botswana salt pans in our quest to understand how water defines southern Africa’s wild places. Options for all budgets. And we can tailor the duration to suit you – drop this, add that …
And now for something completely different
Look away if your ideal safari is in the comfort zone because this is not your average vanilla-flavoured outing! Search for lowland gorillas, bongos, dwarf crocodiles, forest elephants and flocks of grey parrots in the dense forests of Congo in this one-of-a-kind, life-changing adventure.
“Thanks to a donation received from AG’s app subscribers, Project Luangwa was able to provide 15 new desks to Yosefe Secondary School in Zambia, helping to provide a proper workspace for Grade 1 pupils who had up until recently been sitting on the floor in class. As class sizes continue to rise, we can often see 4 or 5 students crammed onto one small desk. Rural schools in the country face many challenges.”
WATCH: Anatolian shepherd dogs play an important role in alleviating human-wildlife conflict between livestock farmers and predators in Namibia. Meet Captain, a guard dog who dutifully watches over and protects his herds morning, noon and night (03:15). Click here to watch
It was just before the arrival of the rains in the South African Lowveld, when the heat seems relentless. We had come across a solitary bull hippopotamus, squeezed into a tiny patch of remaining mud, the skin on his back cracked and dry. I parked the safari vehicle at a comfortable distance, observing his body language for any signs of upset, as hippos are understandably grumpy at the height of the dry season. But he could have been dead for all the movement he showed – only the slight twitches of his ears gave him away as he snoozed.
We sat for a while, contemplating the harshness of nature before I did something unfortunate. It was blazing hot, and there was not a single patch of shade. And so, I pulled out a spray-on sunscreen. Without thinking, I depressed the nozzle, and all hell broke loose…
With a sound akin to the unblocking of the world’s largest toilet, the bull extracted himself from the mud wallow and launched himself at us, mouth agape and enormous tusks front and centre. In the time it took me to start the car and throw it into reverse, he had covered the significant distance between us and was almost level with my door. I had a brief but unfortunate view of the back of his throat before I hurtled backwards up a steep slope. The bull pulled up short and shot me a rightfully affronted look. I suspect, had he been able to talk, he would have muttered some very unflattering words. To say I was decidedly rattled, deeply regretful and suitably chastened would be an understatement.
That night, the heat broke, the heavens opened, and summer rolled in on thick cumulus clouds. The bull hippo was gone the next day.
Quick introduction
I have had many other hippopotamus sightings, which have been more interesting or even more dangerous than the sunscreen incident (we were, after all, in a car and able to move away). Yet that moment still stands out in my mind as the most spectacular display of power from a hippopotamus I have witnessed – for the sheer speed with which the two-tonne bull went from dozing to full-on gallop.
As one of the largest land mammals in the world and distributed across most of sub-Saharan Africa’s waterways, the hippopotamus (Hippopotamus amphibius) probably needs little in the way of introduction. These semiaquatic behemoths prefer to spend the vast majority of their days (sometimes 16 hours or more) in the water, emerging at night or on cloudy days to graze. Despite this hydrophilic existence, hippos are surprisingly poor swimmers. They prefer to wallow in the shallows where they can stand on the river floor and move through the water by trotting or leaping along the bottom. Their dense bones confer a high specific gravity which allows them to counteract the buoyancy of the water – but this also means they cannot float.
Their specially designed skulls align the ears, eyes and nostrils on the top of the head, so these sensory organs can protrude above the surface while the hippo remains otherwise submerged. When submerged entirely, the muscles around the ears and nostrils constrict and fold to seal off to keep the water out. A hippo can hold its breath for around five minutes due to a slowed metabolism but must regularly emerge to replenish its oxygen supplies.
Though this aquatic existence confers several advantages, there is one significant trade-off: a hippo’s skin is extremely sensitive to the sun. Most people by now are familiar with the hippo’s “blood sweat” – a pinkish substance secreted onto the skin that is not blood at all but rather a specialised sunscreen. The two pigments – hipposudoric acid and norhipposudoric acid – also have antimicrobial properties to help guard the skin against infection.
Hippos’ specially designed skulls allow for sensory organs to protrude above the surface; hippos spend time grazing in the evenings or in overcast weather; male territoriality does not extend to foraging beyond the water; their dense bones allow them to counteract the buoyancy of the water; hippopotamus’s skin is extremely sensitive to the sun
Quick facts
Mass:
Males: average 1, 500kg (up to over 3,000kg)
Females: average 1,300kg
Shoulder height:
1.30 – 1. 65m
Social structure:
Territorial males and pods of females and offspring
Gestation:
243 days (eight months)
Life expectancy:
Up to 40 years
Conservation status:
Vulnerable
Like a fish to water
The hippopotamus (Hippopotamus amphibious) is one of two living members of the Hippopotamidae family. The second member is the endangered pygmy hippopotamus (Choeropsis liberiensis), native to the forests and swamps of West Africa. Several extinct members of the Hippopotamidae, some almost identical to the present-day species, once dominated the river systems across Europe and Asia (including the River Thames!). There were also at least three species of Malagasy hippos, one of which only went extinct roughly 1,000 years ago, which coincides with the arrival of humans on the island.
Endangered pygmy hippos are native to West Africa
The hippopotamids’ closest relatives are the cetaceans – whales and dolphins. The two groups likely split from the other artiodactyls (like ruminants) around 60 million years ago and then diverged from a common semiaquatic ancestor some six million years later. The cetaceans eventually evolved to become fully aquatic, while the hippopotamids remained dependent on access to land.
Two (or more) hippos in a pod
Compared to other large land-dwelling mammals in Africa, the social interactions between hippos are challenging to study – even distinguishing young males from females is impossible when only their heads are visible. As a result, it is highly likely that there are nuances to their behaviours and social structures yet to be unravelled.
What we do know is that when water and space are plentiful, hippos form small associations of up to 15 or more individuals, known as schools, pods or, somewhat facetiously, bloats. These family groups typically consist of a territorial bull, cows, and their offspring, and mother-daughter bonds are deep-seated and may persist over a lifetime. Young males may be tolerated around the dominant bull, provided they behave submissively around him. They will often gather in small bachelor groups before eventually striking out on their own to claim a territory when they are around seven to eight years old.
Hippos do not adopt a social approach for nocturnal feeding forays, and most prefer a night of solitary snacking (where they may consume over 50kgs of grass in an evening). Interestingly, the territoriality of the bulls does not seem to extend to their land-based life, and researchers now believe that the middens are not territorial as previously thought. Male territoriality revolves around mating rights, so the region he defends in the water and along the riverbank may vary and does not extend to foraging beyond the river.
When space is at a premium (such as during the dry season when available water is limited), hippos may pack together in their hundreds. Still, they do so with seemingly great reluctance, and fights are a regular occurrence.
Frolicking hippos
Hippos may breed throughout the year, though there is usually a peak in calving during the wet season. Mating usually takes place in the water, and the female is forced to snatch quick gasps of air before the male dunks her back under the surface. Conception is followed by an eight-month gestation and the birth of a calf that may weigh up to 50kg. (It is worth considering how short this gestation period is compared to other mammals. In terms of size comparison, both rhino species give birth to calves of a similar size but their gestation period is almost double that of a hippopotamus. Even humans have a longer gestation.)
Social interactions between hippos are challenging to study; as the calf grows, it becomes more confident and playful; hippo mothers are highly protective of their young; hippos in their hundreds crowd into the last remaining waters during the dry season in Katavi National Park, Tanzania; hippos form small associations of up to 15 or more individuals. For more images from Danielle Carstens, follow @dcwildlifephotography
The hippo mother gives birth on her own in a quiet pool of water, and the calf instinctively strikes out for the surface immediately. The pair remain isolated until the enchanting little calf is old enough to be introduced to the rest of the pod at around a month old. As the calf grows, it becomes more confident and playful, often engaging in wrestling matches with other calves of a similar age.
Hippopotamus mothers are highly protective of their young, and hippo calves have few natural predators – generally, only lions and large spotted hyena clans attempt to hunt them. Even the massive crocodiles that share the rivers and pools are reluctant to attract maternal ire. However, one aspect of hippo behaviour that often shocks witnesses is the rare instances of infanticide. This is typically committed by the dominant bull during a territorial disruption or in times of stress, and the mother is seldom able to prevent it.
Speaking hippo
Naturally, visual communication between individuals is inevitably reasonably limited in the murky underwater environment. As a result, much hippo communication is vocal, with a laugh-like grunt being perhaps the most well-known of their vocal repertoire. However, few people realise that aside from the above surface grunts, roars, bellows and shrieks, hippos also communicate underwater. Studies show that up to 80% of hippo vocalisations are made below the surface. Some of these sub-aquatic songs are very similar to the high-pitched calls produced by whales.
A hippo can open its mouth to almost 180 degrees
Visually, the famously wide yawn is perhaps the hippo’s most notorious body language cue. The joint of the jaw is situated far back in the skull, and the orbicularis oris (the muscle we all have around our mouths) is folded in such a way in the hippo that, at full stretch, it can open its mouth almost 180 degrees. This serves to reveal an intimidating set of tusks, particularly in adult males, and should usually be interpreted as a threat display. The lower canine tusks curve upwards and can grow over 50cm in length, while the lower incisors present a forward-facing barrier of spears. The tusks are used as offensive weapons, predominantly when two bulls fight.
Fights between territorial males become more common when available water starts to shrink during the dry season. These clashes can be ferocious and fatal if one party does not back down. The vanished bull is sent packing, which, when water is scarce, can be a death sentence in the hot sun due to their sensitive skins.
The most dangerous animal in Africa?
These fearsome tusks are feared by all who encounter them, including people. The hippo is often touted as “Africa’s most dangerous animal” and the one that “kills the most people on the continent”. Both of these statements are distinctly unfair and demonstrably false. For a start (though admittedly somewhat pedantically), malaria-spreading Anopheles mosquitoes are also animals and indirectly kill up to half a million people every year. Furthermore, crocodiles likely kill just as many, if not more, people as hippos, but the bodies are frequently not found, and the victim disappears without a trace.
That said, hippos do earn their dangerous reputation. They can be aggressive and are massive, well-armed animals capable of doing significant harm. And unless you happen to be Usain Bolt, they can outrun you. Yet even this needs to be considered in context. Hippos are aquatic animals, and humans are dependent (and more populous) around water. Hippos feel safest in the water and are unlikely to bother people when fully submerged. It is when people come between them and their place of safety (or a calf) or, like my bull, during the dry season when space is at a premium, that they are most likely to attack. Staying out of their way is the best course of action. However, unfortunately, this is simply not possible for many people dependent on the river systems and living without running water.
Their speed has earned them a reputation for danger
Caught up in the tide
Of course, as dangerous as hippos can be to people, mankind too has wrought destruction on their species, and they now occupy just a fraction of their historical range. At present, the IUCN estimates there are somewhere between 115,000 and 130,000 Hippopotamus amphibius in Africa and lists their conservation status as “Vulnerable”. Though the assessors have listed the overall population trend as stable rather than decreasing, there are still many parts of Africa where hippo numbers have declined precipitously. Their close relative, the pygmy hippopotamus, is listed as “Endangered”, and there are believed to be fewer than 2,500 remaining.
The main threats facing the hippopotamids are habitat loss (as is the case for all large African mammals) and poaching for their tusks, valued in the ivory trade. They are also frequently victims of bushmeat poaching.
Yet, like other large mammals such as elephants and rhinos, hippos are important ecosystem engineers. The copious amounts of dung flung into the water by their swishing tails (much to tourist delight) provides nutrients to the many aquatic species that inhabit the waterways of Africa. Furthermore, their movement through channels and along the riverbed helps prevent a build-up of silt and moribund material, improving the river’s flow.
The greatest of beasts
When watched from a safe and comfortable distance, hippos are fascinating and delightful animals. They are also powerful, speedy and deserving of absolute respect. From the charming little calves and placid cows to playful adolescents and awe-inspiring bulls, there is something profoundly intriguing about the knowledge that we still have so much to learn…
Buffalo seen from the air in Timbavati Private Nature Reserve
Recently, five private reserves that form the Associated Private Nature Reserves (APNR) in South Africa – a vital part of the Greater Kruger ecosystem – provided Africa Geographic with the data from their 2021 population censuses. We have sifted through this APNR census information to highlight the fascinating ebb and flow of nature and how reserve managers have to balance this against anthropogenic stressors to preserve the integrity of the ecosystem.
To do this, we start by looking at some of the key points from our analysis and provide important context for interpreting the results before breaking down the population trends for certain important species and families. [Editorial note: Due to security concerns, rhino trends and numbers have been omitted.]
INTERPRETING IN CONTEXT
Wildlife counts are invaluable for reserve management teams but cannot be viewed in isolation. CONTEXT IS EVERYTHING, and while each member of the APNR conducts their own census every year (resources allowing), it is a connected ecosystem. Ideally, these population censuses should be interpreted in combination with those of the Kruger National Park because they share an unfenced ecosystem. This is particularly true for animals with massive home ranges like elephants, buffalo, and wild dogs.
The counts have the potential to be meaningless without context and informed interpretation. Once the numbers are known, the real work begins for ecologists and managers – sorting through what is or isn’t important or relevant (or even natural) and finding explanations for anomalies.
Interpretation involves consideration of many different aspects, including climate (rainfall in particular), increased land area (the addition of Thornybush Game Reserve to the APNR in 2018, for example) and the impact of other species.
It is important to note specific correlations as the overabundance or scarcity of key species can significantly impact both the environment and other species.
No count is ever 100% accurate and only provides a snapshot in time, so analysing trends is essential.
This is not to say that individual results are insignificant. Local precipitous declines or overpopulations can indicate a serious problem that may not always have a natural or apparent cause.
THE ASSOCIATED PRIVATE NATURE RESERVES (APNR) – BACKGROUND
The 197,885 ha APNR is an association of privately owned reserves on the western edge of the Kruger National Park. Initially, the APNR consisted of just three reserves: Timbavati Private Nature Reserve (53,395 ha), Klaserie Private Nature Reserve (60,080 ha), and Umbabat Private Nature Reserve (17,910 ha). These three reserves removed their fences bordering the Kruger National Park in 1993. Balule Private Nature Reserve (55,000 ha) joined the association just over a decade later, and the fences between Balule and Klaserie dropped in 2005. Thornybush Game Reserve (13,866 ha) became the fifth reserve to join when the fences between Thornybush, Klaserie and Timbavati were removed in 2018.
The combined APNR comprises nearly two-thirds of the entire Greater Kruger – 344,000 hectares (860,000 acres) of protected land to the west of Kruger National Park that provides a more substantial area for wildlife to roam freely. Other members of the Greater Kruger include the Sabi Sand Reserve, Manyeleti Game Reserve, Letaba Ranch Game Reserve, and Makuya Nature Reserve. Land use varies from private leisure to photographic tourism and trophy hunting on some properties. For those reserves that conduct hunting, wildlife censuses are necessary to set appropriate quotas each year.
A WORD ON COUNTING
Counting wild animals is an enormous and costly exercise that requires that adaptive techniques for each species be balanced against the economic and logistical realities of each reserve. The APNR alone is roughly the size of Mauritius. The vast majority of the counts are conducted by air, with counters, spotters and data recorders spending days hanging out of a helicopter or plane. These are highly skilled individuals capable of not only spotting the animals but also often able to provide a breakdown of the demographics (males, females, and juveniles) of every animal seen. The counts are conducted towards the end of the dry season when vegetation cover is minimal, and the animals are more visible.
Larger animals like elephants and buffalo are generally easier to count (and fewer in number than, say, impala), so population estimates tend to be more accurate. Large herds (like breeding herds of buffalo) can be photographed, and these high-resolution images can then be used to count individuals. Though all animals spotted from the air are recorded in each census, common sense plays a role in interpretation. For example, a sighting of only one lion in Thornybush’s 2021 aerial count does not mean that there is only one lion on the reserve.
Furthermore, though predators are often spotted from the air, aerial counts do not provide accurate population estimates, particularly for cryptic animals like leopards and some smaller carnivore species. As a result, some reserves use camera traps and sightings information and conduct call-ups for their predator census. A call-up count involves placing bait and playing the sound of a prey species in distress over a speaker. The sound generally attracts the lions, spotted hyenas, and the occasional leopard and smaller carnivore. Wild dogs (painted wolves) and cheetahs are less likely to respond, even during the day and alternative methods have to be implemented if a population estimate is required. These predators also have large home ranges and regularly move in and out of reserves.
Predator populations are fluid and dynamic, fluctuating depending upon a variety of circumstances, including both inter- and intraspecific competition.
The majority of census counts are conducted by air, with counters, spotters and data recorders spending days in helicopters or planes
TRENDS AND THE 2016 DROUGHT IN GREATER KRUGER
The idea of a “stable” population is somewhat misleading, as there is no such thing in nature and, in reality, long-term wildlife populations fluctuate, ideally within a sustainable range. This range is determined by the carrying capacity of the reserve, dictated by geography, climate and flora of the landscape. Even when a once-off disaster (a disease outbreak or drought) causes a more dramatic decline in numbers, the species concerned often recover, provided their previous numbers were sufficiently robust.
The ebb and flow is evident throughout the data from all five reserves, especially concerning buffalo numbers during and after the 2015/2016 drought. Though the number of buffalo dropped substantially during the drought period, it is important to note that this is largely accounted for by the movement of buffalo herds to more favourable habitats to the east (in the Kruger National Park). Trends such as these emphasise the importance of large connected habitats. The 2016 drought was the first drought experienced since the removal of fences between the APNR and the Kruger National Park. This, in turn, allowed for greater ecological resilience in the face of extreme conditions.
Even as rainfall levels increased in later years, the return of the buffalo and the recovery of other ungulate numbers were by no means instantaneous, and lag effects were to be expected. What’s more, knock-on effects were experienced in other, less obvious ways. For example, deprived of buffalo, resident lions would have been forced to rely more heavily on other species for sustenance. There is also a seasonal change in prey species selection, with more wildebeest killed by lions during the wet season and weakened buffalo targeted during the dry season.
Entire APNR – Elephant numbers in the APNR have gradually increased since 2004, when the population stood at around 1,038. The population peaked in 2018 (3,297). In 2021, the total count from all five reserves was 3,144 elephants.
Balule – Balule has seen the most significant increase in elephants utilising the property over the past four years – 86%. 1,053 elephants were counted in 2021, representing the highest population (and density) of the five reserves. The demographics of the elephants entering Balule have also gradually changed since the reserve opened to the rest of the APNR in 2004. Initially, young males dominated, but today, breeding herds and calves are firmly in the majority.
Klaserie – 718 elephants were counted in 2021, increasing 62% since 2017.
Timbavati – 875 elephants were counted in 2021, compared to the 465 in 2017 (a nearly two-fold increase).
Thornybush – When Thornybush dropped its fences in 2018, the number of elephants in the reserve shot up from just over 50 individuals to 349. The population peaked at 770 before decreasing to 368 again in 2021. This increase and then decrease could be explained by the after-effects of the drought and the return of good rains in subsequent years. The dense, nutritious habitats that dominate much of Thornybush were more attractive to elephants until the flora in other regions recovered, resulting in some of the herds dispersing.
Umbabat – 130 elephants were counted in 2021. However, Umbabat elephant counts have varied considerably over the past four years, possibly explained by its relatively smaller size and close proximity to the Kruger National Park.
APNR’s elephant population peaked in 2018 at 3,297/ In 2021, the total count was 3,144 elephants
BUFFALO
Buffalo counts are highly variable due to the nature and movements of buffalo herds
Entire APNR – During (and almost exclusively due to) the 2015/2016 drought, the APNR buffalo population dropped from 7,291 to 2,251 in just two years. However, numbers have been slowly increasing with a couple of years’ worth of good rains, and the 2021 count stands at 3,725. Individual counts from the various APNR reserves are highly variable due to the nature of buffalo herds and the “snapshot” of the count. A breeding herd of over 500 may decide to leave the property the day before a count or arrive a day after. This is one area where an overall trend is more revealing.
With good rains over the past few years, buffalo numbers have been slowly increasing
PREDATORS
LION AND SPOTTED HYENA
Balule – Balule has experienced substantial growth in its lion population over the last decade. However, the verified numbers from the 2020 and 2021 censuses indicate a stabilisation and a minor decline, from 137 to 124 individuals. Curiously, Balule’s lion population has been nearly double that of neighbouring Klaserie and Timbavati in recent years. This could be partly explained by high prey biomass, but of particular interest is the high proportion of mature and young males in Balule compared to “normally” observed demographics. The managers theorise that may be due to the reserve’s geographical location. Young dispersal males may be pushed continually further west until they reach Balule, which marks the western boundary of this section of the Kruger ecosystem, where they can go no further without breaking out of the protection of the reserve. However, this leaves unanswered questions about Klaserie as the immediate neighbour to the east (see below).
Typically, high lion densities are associated with lower spotted hyena numbers, but this is not the case in Balule. 96 individual spotted hyenas were identified during the 2021 predator census, suggesting that spotted hyena densities in Balule are roughly on par with the surrounding reserves.
Klaserie – Klaserie’s call-up predator census in 2021 yielded a count of just 18 lions, compared to around 40 and 50 in 2020 and 2019, respectively. Naturally, this does not represent the reserve’s total lion population. However, this is a significant drop from previous years, and the call-up counts of 2021 were dominated by spotted hyena responses (80%). 141 spotted hyenas were counted in the 2021 census, compared to just under 80 the previous year. Lions and spotted hyenas are in direct competition, and a rise in hyena numbers could account for lower-than-expected lion populations.
Timbavati – According to the reserve ecologists, Timbavati has a population of between 55-60 lions which is in line with the long-term trend of the reserve.
Thornybush – The current resident lion population on Thornybush numbers 26 individuals. Reserve authorities estimate between 25 and 30 spotted hyenas.
Umbabat – The lion population was estimated at around 12 to 16 individuals, belonging to between two and three prides. The hyena numbers are believed to be approximately 50 to 60, and reports suggest that the population is growing.
Typically, high lion densities are associated with lower spotted hyena numbers, but the most recent census data in the private nature reserves around Kruger show surprising results
LEOPARDS
Entire APNR – Leopards are notoriously difficult animals to count, and those that do respond to call-ups are not representative of the total population. Klaserie and Umbabat anecdotally report healthy populations of leopards. The most robust data comes from Balule and Timbavati.
Balule – The Balule predator census combined call-up results with sightings data and camera trap images. The identification of individuals helped in this process, and Balule confidently estimates the number of leopards at around 76.
Timbavati – Timbavati has been conducting surveys of their leopard population since 2013 (except for 2020 due to COVID). In conjunction with the South African Leopard Monitoring Project (a cooperative effort between the NGO Panthera, SANBI and other partners), camera trap surveys have provided reliable long-term trends for the reserve. The reserve leopard monitoring reports note a significant drop in leopard densities in 2019. While the 2021 data records a slight increase, there has still been a concerning decline of 50% between 2018 to 2021. It is important to note that this decline refers to leopard densities, measured in the number of leopards per 100km2. Interestingly, the number of adult males and females has remained consistent between 2019 to 2021, but the number of young males appears to have decreased. The report offers a couple of suggested explanations for this, including lion movements, but emphasises the importance of long-term trend monitoring to inform management practices.
Leopards are difficult to count, and tallies are not necessarily representative of the total population
WILD DOGS
Entire APNR – Wild dogs utilise enormous home ranges except when packs are denning, before the pups can keep up. A pack counted on Balule one day could easily turn up on a neighbouring property the next day. As such, precision counting is next to impossible. Nevertheless, anecdotal evidence suggests that the APNR wild dog population is healthy and possibly even growing.
Balule – 22 wild dogs were recorded in Balule: three packs of five and one pack of seven individuals.
Klaserie – Reserve authorities report that wild dog populations have flourished in Klaserie in recent years, possibly due to water abundance, favouring impala population growth. The single largest pack size recorded on the reserve was 50 individuals!
Thornybush – At the time of writing, two packs regularly use Thornybush. One pack of six individuals is currently denning on the reserve.
Umbabat – Wild dog sightings are regularly reported in Umbabat, with pack sizes varying from eight to 30 individuals.
GIRAFFE
Entire APNR – Giraffe numbers in the APNR peaked at 1,127 in 2018 and have since remained stable when all five reserves are considered as a unit.
Giraffe numbers have remained stable
BLUE WILDEBEEST, KUDU, IMPALA, WATERBUCK AND WARTHOG
Entire APNR – Balule has recorded a significant decline in blue wildebeest (-57%), kudu (-44%), impala (-37%), waterbuck (-54%) and warthog (-63%) from 2018 until 2021. Population peaks and troughs have probably occurred naturally for millennia (especially before and after a drought). However, it is interesting that the same trend is not entirely mirrored in the counts from other APNR members. Where declines in the other reserves occurred over the same period, as was the case for impala, kudu and wildebeest numbers, the drop in populations was not nearly as substantial. The only comparable drop was seen in warthog numbers in Klaserie, which also decreased 61% (from 236 to 91) between 2018 and 2021. Waterbuck numbers increased in Klaserie and Thornybush, and kudu numbers nearly doubled in Umbabat.
Determining an exact explanation for this trend is just one example of the challenges that face those managing these wild spaces. Was it caused by increasing vegetation thickness making counting challenging? Could it be attributed to Balule’s comparatively high lion, hyena, and elephant densities? Is it just part of a natural cycle, or is there another, unseen explanation?
A summation of the entire APNR’s wildebeest, kudu, waterbuck and warthog numbers, and impala numbers
OTHER NOTEWORTHY POINTS
Balule’s census indicates a concerning drop in crocodiles counted, down from over 120 in some years to just 30 individuals. The authors of the census report suggest that this warrants further investigation. In addition, comparing counts in the Kruger National Park would be interesting, as the Olifants River flows west through Balule and into the Kruger. It may be a counting artefact but could also indicate a problem with the health of the river ecosystem.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Counting animals comes with challenges (and strained eyes), but analysing the data is a far more cerebral and long-term exercise. Wildlife counts are vital to understanding any wilderness and significantly impact management decisions. Accurate population estimates and trends aid short-term and long-term decisions (like waterholes or hunting quotes, for example) and identify potential problems while there is still a chance to remedy them. However, an overarching perspective is often invaluable in the case of connected ecosystems – be it the APNR, the Kruger ecosystem, conservancies in East Africa or Transfrontier conservation areas.
What do you think about the ebb and flow of various species numbers in the APNR? We’d love to hear your thoughts. Follow the instructions below to download our APP and share your comments – it’s free!
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Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
?? We have a winner! ??
Sound the trumpets, beat the drums – see the conquering heroes come! This week, we reveal the winner, runners-up and highly commended images from Photographer of the Year 2022. We’ve celebrated epic Africa through impeccable images from some of the world’s most talented photographers.
Thank you to every photographer who courageously shared your valuable art with us, so that we may all experience Africa as you have. Your skill and creativity have brought this magic right to us – and for that, we thank every one of you.
Happy celebrating Africa to you all!
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Evolution is one of those things that happens so slowly that we can’t really see the changes, right? Well, not entirely, as it turns out. Did you know that in certain animals, adaptive evolution may be occurring up to four times faster than previously believed?
Scientists looked at 19 different wild populations of birds and mammals studied over several decades to figure this out. The data utilised represent around 2.6 million hours of fieldwork and a quarter of a million study subjects! They then applied some somewhat complicated genetic models and statistics to quantify the rate of evolution.
3 Epic safaris to do before you kick the bucket. Not all safaris are born equal. Some are so special by the very nature of what they offer that even our seasoned teamAG consultants feature them in their personal ‘must-do’ lists.
And, for the lovers of art, we have one place left on this popular art safari in Manyeleti Game Reserve in the Greater Kruger. This last place is for ladies only because you will share the room with another woman. Join professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls, who will share advice and tips in the field and back in camp.
Wildlife viewing is excellent – Manyeleti boasts regular sightings of the Big 5 (lion, leopard, rhino, elephant, buffalo) and other species such as zebra, hippo and giraffe. Predators such as cheetah, hyena and African wild dogs are also regularly encountered.
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“Earlier this year, I went on an epic 17-day Kenya safari with AG. We searched for and found super tuskers and endangered hirola in Tsavo and Amboseli. In Mara we had great leopard, lion, serval and cheetah sightings. I stayed at Satao Camp (Tsavo East), Satao Elerai Camp (Amboseli) & Sentinel Mara Camp (Maasai Mara) and, bookingwith AG, I received a great rate. So when it came down to it, I saved US$ 1,485 on my trip. Plus, I got some iconic shots of elephants against the backdrop of Kilimanjaro to boot.”
WATCH: One minute and 15 seconds of Botswana’s finest landscapes, waterways and wildlife, to inspire your next safari. Get the AG app to start planning your upcoming safaris now (01:15). Click here to watch
Announcing… ?? the winners of Photographer of the Year 2022 ??! We’ve waited on this moment with bated breath, and the results do not disappoint. The winner and two runners-up will share the princely sum of US$10,000 and join their partners and our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana, where they’ll take more wonderful snaps of our wildlife, landscapes and people.
What a feat – we have reached the summit of Photographer of the Year 2022 – after traversing 7,389 glorious entries, which rendered 344 images selected in our weekly galleries. We’ve narrowed these wondrous images down to 14 highly commended, two runners-up, and one ultimate winner.
Over the past few months, we’ve witnessed authentic Africa come to life. We’ve been granted rare otherworldly glimpses into the ocean’s depths and onto the peaks of the continent’s tallest mountains, into rare species, ethereal treescapes, and some uncanny creatures in compromising positions. We’ve witnessed wondrous wildlife caught in junctures between survival and demise and in moments of calm and affection. We’ve been transported by visceral images of intimate human rites and rituals, and our understanding of the natural world has been tested and enlightened, igniting introspection and inspiration. From victorious wins to desperate losses, from new life to untimely death, we’ve realised that the great continent will never cease to surprise us. All of our entrants found themselves in precisely the right place at the right time, and through their skill and creativity, they have brought this magic right to us – and for that, we thank every one of you.
I gush over these enlightening experiences as it bears repeating that the selection process was tough. But our chosen winners are right where they belong. They have evoked emotion, told explicit tales and captured true Africa with artistic and considerate skill. Thank you to everyone who fearlessly laid the wares of your efforts and skill bare so that we may experience Africa as you have.
Lastly, we offer thanks and gratitude to our sponsors, Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection, whose epic prizes are the most fitting reward for the endeavours of these excellent photographers.
WINNER – PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR 2022
Last seconds of life. A mother zebra makes one final attempt to separate her foal from its pursuant – but fails. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya.
Judges’ comment:
There is something about this dramatic capture of a split-second in the lives of this cheetah and zebras that transcends the many predation photos that we receive for consideration. The desperate battle for survival is etched on their faces, and a final goodbye between mother and child emphasises the raw emotional energy of the moment. This is the first predation photo to win Photographer of the Year.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“That morning, we decided to follow four cheetahs on the hunt. We followed them for hours. We passed herds of topis, gazelles, and zebras. We knew something was going to happen. When, five hours later, our Maasai guide whispered, ‘they are going for the zebras,’ I was convinced they would attack the topis or gazelles dotted across the valley. Seconds later, the cheetahs burst into a small group of zebras. One cheetah ran towards us, clinging onto a foal. In those seconds, I took this picture of the mother zebra launching a last attempt to push her foal away from the attacking cheetah. She failed. I will remember those last seconds for the rest of my life.”
About photographer Alex Brackx
Alex Brackx is a wildlife photographer who teaches languages in Belgium. He started to pursue nature photography in 2010 while travelling in South and Central America. Through further travels in Asia, Belarus, Finland, and again South America, he began to hone his craft, travelling to film and take photos of wildlife. For Alex, it is a thrill to photograph his observations of animals, birds, landscapes, jungles, deserts and oceans.
The explosion of colour against the restless energy of the waves, with backlighting courtesy of the sun, combine with the photographer’s patience and technical skills to create an exceptional capture. The ocean’s creatures are largely hidden from us, so otherworldly. This image helps us cross the divide; hopefully, enough of us will listen when we are told that our future depends on healthy oceans.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“Sandy anemones are native to the very shallow waters around the coasts of southern Africa. Those living in rock pools are greatly dependent on tidal and wave action for their survival. These actions bring nutrient and oxygen-rich water to these mostly stationary creatures. When there is not enough ‘fresh’ water, the anemones will close up, and the landscape will become rather barren-looking. But when these pools are full of water, a kaleidoscope of colours can be seen. It’s as if they celebrate life as they are so vividly reminded about the fragile line between feasting and starving with each tidal change.”
About photographer Geo Cloete
Geo Cloete is a multifaceted artist with a degree in architecture from Nelson Mandela Bay University. His photographic works have been recognised through various photographic competitions. Geo has completed award-winning works in architecture, jewellery, sculpture, and photography. As a life-long “aqua man” with an undying love for the ocean, it’s been his passion to share the beauty, splendour and exquisiteness of the underwater world through his photographic projects. Geo strongly believes in the notion that we only love that which we know, and we only protect that which we love. In 2016, in recognition of his contributions to ocean conservation, Geo was selected as a partner for Mission Blue, an organisation that inspires action to explore and protect the ocean.
The mystical impression that this sunbird is carrying a drop of precious liquid to some sacred place makes this a unique capture. Of course, split-second timing was required, and the photographer spent ten days working the scene.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“I am passionate about bird photos, and during my trip to Senegal, I sprained an ankle. I could not walk for days. But I noticed that sunbirds were regularly coming to drink water at a pipe that had a leak. It seemed as if these birds preferred to drink this ‘softer’ water, as the water of the Sine Saloum River is very salty. For ten days in a row, I photographed these birds at that spot. Finally, I could capture the perfect moment, as this sunbird took this water droplet into its mouth.”
About photographer Cecile Terrasse
Cecile Terrasse is a French wildlife photographer. Cecile enjoys spending time in nature, particularly observing and photographing birds. She strives to capture beautiful light and ambience in her photographs.
The explosion of colours immediately tags this capture worthy of a second look. What a wonderful celebration of a cryptic creature accessible to anybody in the right area with loads of patience. Note the flat (non-arched) posture and lack of dark colouration on the chameleon – it’s relaxed.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“A Knysna dwarf chameleon disappears into the vibrant colours of an erica shrub. These chameleons are surprisingly common in the Garden Route Botanical Gardens, although until you get your ‘eye in’, they can be quite tricky to spot.”
About photographer Brendon White
Originally from Francistown, Botswana, Brendon spent much of his childhood enjoying the outdoors. His father’s keen interest in birds and bird photography sparked Brendon’s passion for the same when he left school. This led him to pursue a degree in nature conservation. After working in a variety of southern Africa’s diverse habitats, including four years as a field guide at Phinda Private Game Reserve, he and his wife Zandri moved to the Isles of Scilly in the UK. They now spend their free time searching for rare birds and other interesting wildlife. Without large animals to distract him, Brendon is currently working on photographing the diverse moth species that the UK has to offer.
Both the fish and the fisherman are caught in a trap. Decreasing naturally functioning habitat means fewer fish and fewer sustainable protein sources and jobs. This is another of Africa’s stories – that vital bond between biodiversity and local people.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“Early morning at low tide, this Tsonga man speared a fish in his family’s fish kraal, which consists of a guide fence that curves towards a fish trap, allowing fish easy entry, but no escape. The Tsonga tribal authority granted his family this specific site for building the kraal. For centuries, the Tsonga people have fished the Kosi Bay lake system, using a skill passed down from generation to generation. Historically, these fish kraals provided a significant food source. In the 1990s, the numbers of these kraals trebled, leading to overfishing in the area. Today, fishermen in the area struggle to provide for their families because of the dwindling fish population.”
About photographer Hesté de Beer
Hesté de Beer hails from a family of skilled photographers, but it was not until 12 years ago that she became interested in the craft. At the time, she asked her father to introduce her to the world of photography. He is still her mentor and strictest critic. Hesté travels with her partner to distant locations around the globe to pursue the most endangered species of the animal kingdom. Through her travels, she has witnessed the adverse effects of the ever-growing human population and technology on the natural world and ancient tribes and cultures. Hesté aims to raise awareness of this plight through her photography.
This bee-eater stack had us all searching for signs of a composite image! What a celebration of these beautiful birds, movement and grace. Stunning!
Photographer and photo details – read more
“White-fronted bee-eaters are such busy birds and constantly look for insects to feed on. I arrived at the Aloe Farm’s nesting wall to find the bee-eaters flying in and out of their nests and settling on perches along the wall. There were ten bee-eaters perched next to each other: some were basking in the sun, others snacking on insects, and many were preening themselves. Suddenly, something startled them, and they took flight – allowing me to capture this image.”
About photographer Sean Davis
Sean Davis is an amateur nature photographer who has a passion for bird and wildlife photography. Working in the printing industry, he has always had a fascination with photography. In 2015, he accompanied a friend on an outing to photograph birds and the bug bit. Seven years on, Sean has travelled to many destinations in pursuit of honing his skill. He enjoys constantly learning from other inspiring photographers whilst photographing and experiencing the beauty of birds and nature across southern Africa.
The stuff of legends. This breathtaking image is for the countless numbers of wildlife enthusiasts that have tried in vain to see a black leopard, let alone photograph one, and with a kill! No further words are required.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“On the night I captured this shot of a young female leopard, I was hosting a safari with guests to spot her. This was the last of our six nights, and we had been hoping for a good view of her. She delivered spectacularly. We observed her for almost an hour, and she was clearly on the hunt. It is tough to follow a black leopard at night as they camouflage very well. We alternated spotlit scans of the area with periods of darkness in the hopes she would be successful on the hunt. And then we heard it: the unmistakable cry of an animal that had been caught. Silence followed. We scanned again. She appeared out of the shadows, carrying a dik-dik kicking helplessly. The leopard proceeded to carry the then lifeless animal toward a nearby riverbank through dense scrub. We moved to an opening where I captured her dragging the carcass over the rocks. Her eyes and the dik-dik lit up for the briefest moment against the pitch-black background before she disappeared and melted into the darkness. This encounter was beyond privileged, and I count myself extremely lucky to have been able to capture this moment.”
About photographer Nick Kleer
Nick is a wildlife guide who has been guiding for 13 years. Most of his guiding career has been spent in South Africa, where he has worked in public and private reserves. Nick has spent most of this time pursuing his greatest passion: big cats. In his spare time, he searches for big cats outside of the African continent, in destinations such as India and Brazil, searching for tigers and jaguars. For the past three years, Nick has stepped out of lodge-based guiding in favour of privately guided trips. He now travels with guests on safari trips to incredible destinations through Africa and beyond. He aims to inspire a love of wildlife through his photography and raise awareness of the importance of conservation of wild areas to make a positive impact on the world of the wild and all its inhabitants.
Excellent composition and creative post-production make for a striking portrait. The dramatic sky seems to radiate from this herder – to give him wings – and his intense stare adds to the energy of this capture.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“We left camp around 4.30am. Even in the excited anticipation of photographing the remote tribes of Ethiopia, I dozed on and off as we rocked back and forth along the long and dusty road. Our goal was to reach the tribal village before sunrise. We wanted to capture authentic images of the people going about their morning activities. I love photographing people – I have been a professional portrait photographer all my adult life. When we arrived, the men were busy with their cattle, and I saw this gentleman standing on a small sand mound, watching over his cattle. The sunrise was full of dramatic clouds and beautiful textures. The light was flat enough to maintain detail in the man and the sky. I knelt and placed the clouds in perfect alignment. The man glanced over his cows, and I made the exposure. This will always be one of my favourite photographic moments.”
About photographer Kevin Dooley
Kevin Dooley is an award-winning wildlife, portrait and wedding photographer who grew up in Placitas, New Mexico. His interest in photography began at an early age when at 14, he was gifted with a 35mm camera. Working as an assistant photographer and darkroom technician in his father’s portrait studio, Kevin began his life-long career in photography. After completing service in the US Navy, he returned to New Mexico and opened his photography studio in Albuquerque. During the 39 years the studio has been in operation, he has received numerous awards and been published in many publications. He has also released a photography book: Wild faces in wild places. Africa has always had a special place in Kevin’s heart. He thrives on sharing this amazing place with others.
This photo tells the story of one of Africa’s true conservationists – a man who has dedicated his life to saving mountain gorillas – one gorilla at a time. Unlike many in the greater wildlife industries space, Andre Bauma has realised that for some species, we are down to every individual being vital for population stability.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“Andre Bauma rescued the then two-month-old Ndakasi in Virunga National Park, Democratic Republic of Congo, in 2007. Poachers had killed her parents, and she was still clinging to her mother’s dead body when she was found. Carrying her to safety inside his shirt to keep her warm, Andre came to take on the role of both mother and father, sharing Ndakasi’s bed, feeding her, playing with her, and comforting her at her new home, the Senkwekwe Mountain Gorilla Sanctuary. Their bond grew stronger, with Andre often speaking of Ndakasi and the other orphaned gorillas as his children. In September 2021, despite access to specialist veterinarians, Ndakasi succumbed to illness and died in Andre’s arms, 14 years after he found her.”
About photographer Marcus Westberg
Marcus Westberg is an award-winning Swedish photographer and writer who focuses primarily on conservation topics in sub-Saharan Africa and Scandinavia. He is a photographer for African Parks, and his work is frequently found in publications such as the New York Times, Washington Post, bioGraphic, Vagabond, GEO and Wanderlust.
This is not an image to gladden the heart. On the contrary, our judges agonised over this depiction of “cruelty”. Is this wanton violence; should we suppress it because of the poor baby monkey’s lot? Or should we stay the course we chose 31 years ago to also reflect harsh reality? And that, dear reader, is why we chose this image – because the emotional rollercoaster it sparks in our minds leads to a better understanding of how nature works.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“While following a pride of lions in Zimanga Private Game Reserve early one morning, I noticed something attracted the young male lion’s attention, and I followed his gaze. He had noticed that a young vervet monkey had wandered away from the troop, foraging on the ground in dense vegetation. The vervets were oblivious to the predator, and he made his move. The noise of his hastened approach alerted the mother, and she turned to rescue her baby. Lion and mother arrived together, and opportunistically the lion turned his attention to the desperate mother. In trying to save her baby, she paid the ultimate price for her maternal instinct.”
About photographer Hendri Venter
Hendri Venter is a photographic guide at Zimanga Private Game Reserve in South Africa. He has always been enchanted by wildlife and the natural world. Growing up on a farm, he enjoyed spending time with its seemingly endless expanse of wildlife. Exploring nature by horseback and by foot, he formed a strong sense of appreciation and amazement for all things natural. He enjoys taking images that capture the endless ebb and flow of nature.
The juxtaposition of these massive Grandidier’s baobabs and the playing children makes for a telling story. The kids belong to parents that sell their wares to tourists that come to wonder at the baobabs. Without tourism money, those trees will likely go the way of much of Madagascar’s natural vegetation, and the rural villagers would have fewer livelihood options. This is one of Africa’s most compelling stories – the bond between biodiversity, local people and tourists.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“The photo was taken in August 2018. The name ‘baobab’ is derived from an Arabic term meaning ‘seed-bearing fruit’. As it takes seven years for a small tree to grow only 50cm high, some of the oldest baobabs with thick trunks are regarded as holy trees. Many people come to the trees to pray for children, money, good fortune and illness. In Madagascar, locals regard the baobab tree as sacred, and it is known as the ‘tree of life’.”
About photographer Aimin Chen
Aimin Chen is an independent photographer who spends much of her time focusing on field photography. Aimin has always loved the life and culture of Africa and hopes to continue to record more wonders of the world with her camera.
You can wait for hours while the dinosaur of birds patiently monitors a lungfish breathing hole on a floating raft of papyrus reeds. And then, nothing. Or, your patience might be rewarded with a brief glimpse of a kill – and a blurry photographic memento. Rarely do you capture the perfect shot of predator and prey. That makes this an exceptional capture worth celebrating.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“The prehistoric-looking shoebill is an iconic bird in Uganda. My dream of photographing this bird in its natural environment led me to Entebbe. I travelled with the guide and boatman on a wooden dinghy to Mabamba Swamp, where we found one bird standing in the swamp vegetation. Our boatman was able to manoeuvre the dinghy into the ideal spot to capture the photo. But the hard work was yet to begin: we were waiting for the bird to hunt. This can take hours, as shoebills – too heavy to chase their prey – stand still for long periods, waiting for unsuspecting creatures to swim close by. But after a long wait, the bird suddenly made an attack, catching a large lungfish – grabbing a beak full of swampy vegetation in the process. It is magical to share this moment with others. What an extraordinary bird!”
About photographer Guenther Kieberger
Guenther Kieberger hails from Austria. He picked up his passion for wildlife photography ten years ago. Working as a cameraman on wildlife documentaries, he travels to many destinations on adventures around the world. His photos have been widely published in books and magazines. His photographic pursuits centre around identifying specific wildlife subjects to capture and focusing solely on the species in question throughout a photographic trip. Sharing these images with people who cannot experience these moments for themselves brings him joy.
If you have experienced the oppressive heat and enveloping, suffocating dust at the peak of the African dry season, you will live this capture with every cell in your body. The desperate search for water is written on every face as this pathfinder leads her herd to the natural spring.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“For the past ten years, I have spent a few months a year in northern Zimbabwe, where, in untouched wilderness, one can still watch nature’s dramas unfold. In 2021, at the end of the dry season, I spent a couple of weeks at Chitake Springs in the interior of Mana Pools National Park. With dwindling food sources, soaring temperatures up to 45°C, and the daily need to drink, the buffalo were drawn to whatever water remained. I was on foot when I captured this image as the herd of buffalo arrived at the spring. Given the dynamics and unpredictability of the encounters, there is always a lot to consider when in these situations!”
About photographer Jens Cullman
Jens Cullman was born in Nuremberg, Germany, in 1969. His introduction to photography was at age 13, when he received his first camera. As a teenager, he worked with black-and-white film and image developing until he was able to acquire more sophisticated equipment. During a trip to Namibia and Botswana in 2003, Jens’ passion for wildlife photography really ignited, and he has grown in stature since then. He has won several prestigious international awards. Jens was the winner of the Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year 2020 and a runner-up in the 2019 competition. He uses his photography to create awareness about conservation issues and preserving natural habitats.
A brilliant capture of the moment when a mere glance becomes a ponder, a calculation even. Our genetic similarities aside, this image forces us to recognise another great ape as sentient and thoughtful.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“After two unforgettable gorilla treks in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, the next step on the expedition was visiting Kibale National Park to see the chimpanzees. We found a large family group and stayed with them for some time. We were able to observe the many different personalities in the group. Some were shy and skittish, whilst others were bold. We came across this individual who was very comfortable in our presence. I felt privileged to be accepted in his presence. Some of the other family members in the group were still in the trees above, and, just like me, this chimp was regularly looking up, seemingly worried that he would be the target of fruit, urine and branches falling from the trees above.”
About photographer Johan Siggesson
Johan, an award-winning wildlife photographer, was born in Sweden. Since 2001 he has lived on the small Mediterranean island of Malta, where he recently published his first book, on the island’s wild orchids. He regularly guides photographic tours around the world. After his first safari to Kenya in 2012, he took up wildlife photography full-time. Since then, he has had great success in prestigious international photography competitions. More recently, he was appointed as a Fellow of the Malta Institute of Professional Photography and an elected member of the Swedish Association for Nature Photographers. In his new home country of Malta, a keen interest in nature is not woven into the island’s culture, nor is it a priority in politics. With both his local and international work, Johan hopes to raise awareness and appreciation for the natural world that we are all part of.
What goes where, and who owns what? A bit of fun as we are forced to concentrate for longer than the usual glance at our busy mobile phone feeds.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“I’ve always been struck by the sense of calm projected by giraffes, and there was something almost meditative about the concentration of these two, and the demure sweep of their lashes and slow grace of their long velvet noses as they nuzzled the soil – as if they were savouring the moment. I chose my angle and held my breath as their heads moved ever closer, and they continued to brush against the earth – until they finally attained a fleeting moment of symmetry.”
About photographer Julian Asher
Born in San Francisco and currently based in London, Julian Asher has lived in cities around the world, including New York, Zurich, Berlin, and Cape Town. Julian is an award-winning photographer who will go to great lengths in the name of the perfect shot, including being duct-taped into a doorless helicopter over the Okavango Delta in Botswana. The risks have paid off – his work has won multiple awards and has been exhibited at the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History in Washington, DC. As a photographer, Julian focuses primarily on wildlife and wild places – with a particular interest in predators and their behaviour and in indigenous peoples and their traditions. He spends several months a year in the field in Africa, Asia, and Latin America. He enjoys sharing his love of the natural world by leading photography workshops and planning safaris as the founder of Timeless Africa, a triple-bottom-line sustainable travel company. Julian serves on the boards of several Africa-focused NGOs centring on conservation and education.
This leopard sliding under the electric fence of a residential wildlife estate on the outskirts of a bushveld town is a sensational illustration of peri-urban leopard survival and cunning. It’s also a sad depiction of a wild creature “navigating between two prison cells”, as one Facebook observer commented.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“The leopardess captured in this image has been the primary subject of a peri-urban leopard identification project that I started over three years ago. Her territory includes a disturbed landscape with a large human presence. Despite this, she has found a way to survive while evading our detection almost entirely and has successfully raised at least three litters of cubs to independence. I was determined to capture an image which showcased her remarkable versatility, so I set out to look for her, day after day, night after night. After almost two years of failed attempts, fortuitous circumstances finally intervened. On a late afternoon game drive, my wife and I spotted the leopardess and one of her cubs outside the perimeter fence line. I reversed the vehicle to a respectful distance and cut the engine. Though these leopards are hypersensitive to human presence, I was certain they had a kill on the wildlife estate, so they would need to enter underneath the electric fence. I waited until the mother leopard emerged from the roadside thickets and effortlessly slid underneath the electric fence. I witnessed the leopard’s mellifluous motion through my camera’s viewfinder as the firing shutter captured her attention. Then the cub swiftly followed her mother. Now, this resilient peri-urban leopard’s story is known by many.”
About photographer Owen Gröbler
Owen is an aspiring conservation photographer based in South Africa, with a desire to highlight the challenges faced by tenacious peri-urban leopards in the Greater Kruger region. Owen has published a coffee table book, Searching for spots, about the leopards he has monitored through the duration of a leopard identification project he runs on Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate. His goal is to improve people’s mindsets toward human-predator co-existence and encourage the protection of the natural habitat. Although Owen has a deep love for leopards, he is a nature enthusiast who enjoys birding and the challenges that wildlife photography presents. Travelling to wild spaces and capturing unique moments is where he feels most at home.
Mom’s massive foot gently cradling her tiny baby seems to curve around that delicate ear. A touching, tender moment that so defines elephants and makes us want to spend time with them.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“This photo was taken during a visit to Kruger National Park in December 2021. It was a scorching day near Punda Maria when we spotted a large herd of elephants making their way down to the river to quench their thirst and cool off in the water. One female elephant was not interested in joining the fun and was just standing still. At first, I thought she was injured or sick, but as we drove closer, I noticed her tiny calf resting peacefully at her feet in the shade that she provided. An epitome of a mother’s love and protection of her little one.”
About photographer Ilna Booyens
Ilna Booyens is an award-winning wildlife photographer whose work has been featured in numerous publications. She has always been drawn to the bushveld’s sights, sounds, and smells. Her passion for wildlife photography started in 2015 when she was gifted with a camera. She enjoys the connection developed with the natural world when photographing its wonders. Ilna spends as much time as possible in the bushveld, testing her patience and perseverance by braving extreme weather conditions and driving for hours to find the perfect subject.
Announcing… ??the finalists for Photographer of the Year??. After much deliberation over the past few weeks, we’ve narrowed down 7,389 submissions to 44 truly exceptional images. Kick-start your weekend with an endorphin rush as you indulge in these marvellous images.
The scourge of rhino poaching has policymakers seeking creative solutions. In 2021, discussions on rhino-horn trade were floated by Barbara Creecy’s High-Level Panel – sparking highly polarised debate. Would the farming of rhinos prevent illegal trade in wild rhino horn? In our third story below, we examine the research into the preferences of the actual consumers of rhino horn – which has a significant bearing on the potential impact of legalising the trade in rhino horn.
Happy indulging in Africa to you all!
Taryn van Jaarsveld — Editor
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Did you know that rhinos make squealing noises like cetaceans (dolphins and whales)? Rhinos of all ages use this whine to communicate, though it is especially adorable when the youngsters do it. If you don’t believe me, follow the link to enjoy an enchanting pair of rhino calves squealing for their lunch.
It’s cute, right?
Over 100 rhinos have been massacred in Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park in South Africa in just five months. We could debate the merits of trade (see our story below) in circles for eternity and would likely never reach a consensus, but we are running out of time to act. South Africa’s rhinos are vanishing in front of our eyes. Though if Minister Creecy is to be believed, it is simply increased anti-poaching measures in Kruger (and not dwindling rhino numbers) that has sent poachers scurrying to Kwa-Zulu Natal …
The BEST VALUE in the Maasai Mara right now?Our 6-day safari at the intimate Enkewa Camp in the southeastern Maasai Mara ecosystem. This eco-friendly camp is owner run, so expect attention to detail and a homely feel – ideal for singles, couples and groups seeking to recharge their batteries and enjoy traditional Kenyan hospitality.
MOUNTAIN GORILLA TREKKING is the ultimate bucket-list choice amongst our safari clients. We have our popular 3-day gorilla trekking safari in Rwanda for the time-pressured traveller. Prices are excellent, even more so for SADC tourists. It’s time to tick this one off your list …
WATCH: Five minutes of calm – explore South Africa’s forest beneath the waves. Many algal forests are in decline due to warming oceans. But along South Africa’s coastline, the 1,200km-long Great African Sea Forest still thrives (05:02). Click here to watch
Here are the finalists in our 2022 Photographer of the Year! We will announce the overall winner and two runners-up in the beginning of June. They will share US$10 000 in prize money and join their partners and our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.
Here are the finalists in our 2022 Photographer of the Year! We will announce the overall winner and two runners-up in the beginning of June. They will share US$10 000 in prize money and join their partners and our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.
As conservationists and rangers work around the clock to protect Africa’s rhinos, scientists on the other side of the globe are attempting to unravel different aspects of the trade: including the perspectives and market preferences from actual consumers of rhino horn. Do these consumers prefer the horn of a wild rhino over that of a “farmed” or captive rhino? The answer to this question has a significant bearing on the potential impact of legalising the trade in rhino horn.
Rhino populations in Africa continue their dizzying decline due to poaching. The Kruger National Park – a protected area in South Africa where populations were once thriving – for example, has experienced a 75% decline in population numbers in the past 10 years. Conservation circles are locked in a fierce debate on whether legalising the horn trade would save these iconic animals or be the instrument of their final destruction. (A complete summary of the nuances of this debate can be found here: Rhino horn trade – yes or no.) The success or failure of a controlled trade strategy will depend on several factors, including how the market develops if legal restrictions are removed. This is a complex question involving everything from economics to sociology, and it is almost impossible to predict accurately.
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Of mammoths & tuskers + fantastical Madagascar + horny toads
Why is transparency SO DIFFICULT for some? The info-gathering journey for my follow-up below was an interesting one. Our usual network of information brokers performed well, as usual – thanks to every one of you. And also a SHOUT OUT to Nyambe Nyambe of KAZA who was courteous and professional in fielding teamAG questions about elephant trophy hunting. BUT
Our attempts to determine THE FACTS from the trophy hunting industry about this particular Botswana tusker hunt were met with petulance, insults, smoke and mirrors. We are used to this from a minority of loud individuals within the industry – water off a duck’s back – but from representative body officers? I won’t repeat what is included in the notes below my op-ed (or stoop to their levels of personal and brandAG attacks), but I will say that the LACK OF dignity, professional courtesy and foresight exhibited by the representative body for Botswana trophy hunters will come back to haunt them. Hopefully, the ethical members from within that body will one day exorcise the rot.
I will be enjoying a 4-day mountain biking sojourn deep in the northern Kruger National Park as you read this, with other bushveld junkies. SAFARI NJEMA my friends
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
We will soon be revealing the finalists, and shortly thereafter, WINNERS of Photographer of the Year. Our team of judges is deeply immersed in a cauldron of contemplation, giving each pic in our Top 101 galleries due deliberation. Watch this space!
Will Africa’s great tuskers face the same fate as the now-extinct woolly mammoths? A few weeks ago we broke the news that two of Botswana’s largest tuskers were trophy hunted. This week, Simon delves into the great debate following this fallout, and spotlights the threat this brings to community wealth, an important wildlife corridor and tusker survival. See our first story below.
Madagascar – the fantastical land of plenty – is a natural evolutionary playground and a human kaleidoscope of cultural influences. For those seeking spiny forests, elegant sifakas, ring-tailed lemurs and desert canyons, south and central Madland is just the ticket. Read more in our second story.
Happy celebrating Africa to you all!
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Science is a serious business. The business of publishing in scientific journals even more so. This is why I find brief glimpses of humour so profoundly refreshing. Along with fun taxonomic names, tongue-in-cheek article titles are right up my alley.
Take my most recent read, entitled “Finding love in a hopeless place”. It’s about frogs. More specifically, it is about desperate frogs. Did you know that during their chaotic breeding seasons, male frogs will grab almost anything in the hope that it’s a female? When this approach goes wrong, it is called misdirected amplexus (amplexus describing the Anuran mating position). These love-struck amphibians have been known to clasp boots, carcasses and pythons.
Given that the Bufonidae were well represented in this research, I can think of at least one alternative title that would have worked just as well. Though it probably wouldn’t have made it past the reviewers…If you think you know what I was thinking (or have a better idea), why not share it in our club comments section?
A rare find indeed – affordability in the birthplace of walking safaris. This well-priced safari is a must for those seeking true wilderness and expert walking guides. Expect excellent game viewing (did someone say LEOPARDS?) and tracking on foot, plus epic bush breakfasts and unforgettable sundowners. Unwind, detox and let 5 days in remote Africa recharge your batteries.
And then there is this – 19 days in paradise – Greater Kruger, Cape Town & the Winelands, Khwai, Chobe and Victoria Falls. From bush to beach, Pinotage to predators and the biggest curtain of falling water in the world, this epic safari showcases the best that southern Africa has to offer.
WATCH: Your feel good fix for the week! Watch two rangers rescue an exhausted honey badger, trapped in the base of a marula tree (04:01). Click here to watch
The debate after we broke the story on the trophy hunting of two of Africa’s largest tuskers in Botswana has focussed on the ethical issues surrounding trophy hunting, and rightfully so. Should humans be permitted to kill animals for fun? And then there is the potential threat to big-tusker genes of selectively removing these giants from the breeding pool.
But for this post, I focus on three other issues that go to the core of trophy hunting, and hunting elephants, as a conservation tool:
1. FAIR VALUE
The trophy hunter paid at least US$80,000 for the ‘pleasure’ of killing this giant elephant*. Is this ‘fair value’ for one of a diminishing population of large-tusked elephants (tuskers)?
The questioning of fair value is essential. For example, what would the modern-day trophy hunter pay TODAY to kill a woolly mammoth – how many millions of USD? Because in 20 years, that will be a relevant comparison – these giant elephants are the woolly mammoth of today, and their slide into oblivion is surely a concern.
2. ADEQUATE COMPENSATION – RURAL COMMUNITIES
We have been advised that the Tcheku Community Trust, on whose land (NG13) this tusker was killed, was paid BWP200,000 (about US$16,285) for this elephant hunt – by a company called Old Man’s Pan Propriety Limited.
The company is owned by professional hunter Leon Kachelhoffer and Derek Brink – one of Botswana’s wealthiest men. So let’s be clear about this. Two wealthy individuals generate a massive 500% return on this giant elephant – and an entire community has to survive on the scraps.
Obviously I do not speak for this community (based in an area where protein sources are likely scarce) – who may appreciate an estimated minimum 600kg of elephant meat that such a hunt could produce. However, of concern is that our request to BWPA (see below) and Kachelhoffer for evidence – photos – that the meat was given to community members was refused. Also, suggesting that the supposed meat provision is a substitute for the cash they should have earned is insulting – the ultimate slap in the face for these desperate people. Do they know what this elephant was really worth?
The community trust’s total elephant allocation for the year is five elephants – all purchased in advance by Kachelhoffer and Brink. Seeing how little the community benefited from the killing of one of Africa’s largest tuskers, I would imagine that their revenue expectations for the remainder of the year are pretty grim.
This is nothing more and nothing less than the syphoning off of rural community wealth by hardened wealthy businessmen.
Is this the true face of Botswana’s much-acclaimed ‘sustainable’ trophy hunting strategy? In May 2019, Botswana’s President Masisi justified the decision to recommence trophy hunting by emphasising that local communities will be guaranteed far more than just menial jobs and will enjoy the economic benefits of sustainable wildlife management. I have no conceptual issue with controlled, sustainable hunting in areas where photo tourism fears to tread – because Africa’s people HAVE to be incentivised to have wild animals in their midst. Otherwise, we will end up like much of the ‘developed’ world – devoid of free-roaming wildlife. But is this how President Masisi envisaged involving impoverished, marginalised communities in the wildlife industry? Is this particular scenario fair to the good people of Botswana, or even sustainable – surely not!
3. MIGRATING ELEPHANTS
And what about the rural people in neighbouring countries – how do they benefit from this once-off event?
After all, this giant elephant was an international wanderer who would undoubtedly have paid his way via many photographic appearances over the years in the nearby (in roaming bull elephant terms) popular tourist areas of the Okavango Delta, Chobe, Caprivi, Victoria Falls and Hwange – to name a few.
On the topic of international elephant migration routes, we approached Nyambe Nyambe, executive director of Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA), for feedback about trophy hunting elephants in elephant migration routes and the possibility of this creating ‘fear zones’ which hinder migration away from human-elephant conflict areas. One of KAZA’s aims is to enable elephant migration away from human-elephant conflict zones.
Nyambe pointed out that KAZA partner states consider trophy hunting a component of the wildlife economy. But he also said, “Partner States have imposed moratoriums on trophy hunting in particular areas of KAZA for purposes of rebuilding the populations alongside strengthening other conservation measures…”
Why then does Botswana create a new controlled trophy hunting area out of NG13 – which is slap bang in the elephant-migration corridor? On the face of it, this seems contrary to the underlying KAZA strategy to create safe migration corridors and alleviate human-elephant conflict.
Nyambe pointed out that KAZA cannot prevent partner states from going against the spirit of the partnership: “Any potential negative effects that could arise from efforts towards sustainable use (not just from hunting) will be duly investigated to mitigate any unplanned or negative impacts,” but KAZA does not take up issues with partner states, and rather relies on partner states to “engage with other or a particular partner state in the event of a concern.”
On the subject of fear zones, Nyambe suggested that my concerns are noted but probably overstated because trophy hunting does not occur across the entire wildlife dispersal area.
PARTING THOUGHTS
Botswana, and any other country, has the sovereign right to decide their own way forward when it comes to conservation issues such as these. And their focus on local people as beneficiaries of the wildlife industries is justified and necessary.
But surely Botswana can do better than this? Permitting a few privileged individuals to benefit at the expense of desperate rural communities is going to end badly – for Batswana and for their wildlife and ecosystems.
The trophy hunting industry is incapable of self-regulation and has never been transparent about its dealings. The authorities need to step in and enforce better transparency and accountability. They need to ensure a better distribution of wealth for Botswana’s rural people, better mitigation of human-wildlife conflict and a more sustainable offtake of genetically gifted animals that are now so popular as mantelpiece adornments.
a) Three separate sources advised us that the minimum price for this sized elephant was US$80,000 to US$100,000
b) Our request to professional hunter Leon Kachelhoffer for information about the hunt proceeds, NG13 environmental management plan, license tender process and other specifics was initially met with assurances of cooperation, but he suspended discussions shortly after that. We were subsequently sent a letter by Kachelhoffer’s fellow Botswana Wildlife Producers Association committee members. The letter provided generic notes about elephant hunting and how the elephant was located in the vast NG13 but did not provide the requested information mentioned above. This lack of transparency is, unfortunately, par for the course. In a bitter, strongly worded follow-up letter, the BWPA advised us that they would not be responding to future requests for information.
This time we adventure to southern and central Madagascar, in our four-part series on this wondrous island. See the resources section at the end of this story for the other three stories in the series.
For the last 88 million years, life on Madagascar has been on its own – creating an island of evolutionary oddities and myriad diverse travel experiences. Sometimes referred to as a “Noah’s Ark” or the “eighth continent” due to its geographic isolation and high levels of endemism, the island of Madagascar is, simply put, enormous. It is approximately 587,000km2 (around two and a half times the size of the United Kingdom). A combination of ocean currents and dramatic topography has created a tapestry of different climates and habitats perfectly suited to the island’s peculiar inhabitants (or the other way round).
The island is home to over 300 recorded birds (60% of which are endemic) and 260 species of reptile – including two-thirds of the world’s chameleon species. There are over 110 species of lemurs spread throughout Madagascar’s protected areas, in a variety of shapes and sizes but all possessing a shared, wide-eyed charisma. Six of the world’s eight baobab species occur only in Madagascar. All in all, the natural history is unique, shaped by the fascinating and beautiful, isolated island habitats.
In an ideal world, a trip to Madagascar would extend over weeks to give the curious traveller every opportunity to explore the magnificent island. Realistically, however, time is usually limited and deciding where to invest one’s attention is guaranteed to create a significant traveller’s quandary. This four-part series is intended to help guide this decision.
South and central Madagascar
Madagascar’s ancient geography – shaped by volcanic forces and tectonic tearing – consists of a rather thin band of coastline, the massive central plateau and several massifs scattered across the island. The eastern section is lush and green, watered by Indian Ocean trade winds and with the forested escarpment descending in a series of steep steps to the rugged coastline. Further west, the arid highlands and grasslands of central Madagascar are riven by stark desert canyons. The weather becomes even drier as the land slopes gently to the island’s southern tip, giving way to the strange and formidable plants of the Tolkienesque spiny forests.
The southern circuit of Madagascar is more popular with tourists and includes two of the island’s most famous parks: Ranomafana and Isalo National Parks. Away from the main holidaymaker routes, the south-central highlands offer a vast but intimidating adventure for intrepid and experienced explorers. However, the more circumspect traveller will find these more accessible destinations provide a great fill of Madagascar’s wondrous wildlife and sublime scenery.
Diademed sifaka
Ranomafana National Park
Situated on the precipitous slopes of the High Plateau, the forests of one of Madagascar’s largest national parks cover an area of around 416km2 (41,600 hectares). The name comes from the Malagasy term for ‘hot springs’ (‘rano’ meaning water and ‘mafana’ meaning warm), in which visitors can soak aching muscles after hiking the undulating and sometimes strenuous trails. Ranomafana and Berenty Private Reserve (see below) are absolute musts when visiting this part of Madagascar. The park is part of the Rainforests of the Atsinanana UNESCO World Heritage Site – a serial property composed of six national parks protecting relict forests along the eastern strip of Madagascar and known for their exceptional biodiversity. The other five parks are Masoala National Park, Marojejy National Park, Zahamena National Park, Andringitra National Park, and Andohahela National Park.
Ranomafana owes its existence to Dr Patricia Wright and her discovery of the golden bamboo lemur in 1986. This prompted the authorities to declare the region a national park and helped save the dwindling populations of one of the most unusual primates in the world. As a result, the critically endangered golden bamboo lemur is probably the park’s star character. Their main claim to fame is that they are the only primate specialising in a bamboo diet (chimpanzees and gorillas eat bamboo, but it does not form the basis of their diets). No one fully understands how they process the enormous quantities of cyanide present in the bamboo shoots’ soft stalks and growing tips. Experts estimate that they ingest approximately 50 times the lethal dose for a similarly sized mammal every day.
Golden bamboo lemur
Apart from the cyanide guzzling golden bamboo lemurs, Ranomafana is home to many other lemur species, including the eastern woolly lemur, eastern grey bamboo lemur, red-bellied lemur, greater bamboo lemur, black-and-white lemur, red-fronted brown lemur, ruffed lemur, small-toothed sportive lemur, and the Milne-Edwards sifaka. The bushbaby-like mouse lemurs are undoubtedly the forest’s cutest offering – emerging at night with the eerie aye-ayes (for fortunate travellers) to take advantage of the plethora of insect life. Ayes-ayes are most easily seen near Tamatave.
Madagascar is an incredible birding destination, with at least five endemic bird families: vangas, ground-rollers, cuckoo rollers, Malagasy warblers and mesites. Though the forests (and birding opportunities) of Ranomafana are similar to those of Andasibe-Mantadia, Ranomafana offers the best chance to spot (among others) the yellow-bellied sunbird-asity, the cryptic warbler, and Madagascan snipe. Of course, this being Madagascar, the reptiles (especially chameleons) are many and varied, and the waterways and forest paths are dotted with colourful little frogs. The aptly named giraffe-necked weevils are another Madagascan endemic – a peculiar insect with an elongated neck designed for nest building and fighting off rivals.
Elephant’s Foot Plant – Isalo National Park
Isalo National Park
Delving further into Madagascar’s interior, the 815km2 (81,500 hectares) Isalo National Park is a world apart from the tropical rainforests of the east. Hot and dry though it may be, Isalo is one of Madagascar’s busiest parks for a reason. The views are different every day, with shifting shadows and changing colours creating a living work of art as the sun moves across the sky. Isalo boasts wooded ravines, idyllic pools like “Piscine Naturelle”, and incredible flora. The park is also very close to the main road.
Isalo is often described as Madagascar’s equivalent of the Grand Canyon, though this is probably a slight overstatement. Regardless, the scenery is not dissimilar to Arizona’s in the US, complete with dramatic canyons and colourful sandstone ridges. The sweeping panoramas can be explored across several different hikes ranging from a few hours to several days in duration. Some magnificent trails also descend into the sclerophyllous (hard leaved, drought-adapted) woodlands of the gorges to arrive at limpid pools where visitors can refresh body and soul.
Here tourists delight in the antics of the park’s ring-tailed lemurs. They’re unlikely to bust out any dance moves or speak with Sasha Baron Cohen’s inexplicable Indian accent like DreamWorks’s famous (mis)representation, but these black and white lemurs are equally sassy. From the endemic and distinctive elephant’s foot (which looks a bit like a bulbous bonsai baobab) to several native species of aloe, the plant life is unique and fascinating. Recent studies indicate that the park is home to 24 different amphibian species, 47 reptiles, and over 100 different bird species have been recorded in Isalo.
All this said, seeing birds and mammals in Isalo can be tricky. An excellent birding option is Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park, where expert bird guides will delight you with incredible sightings of giant couas, cuckoo-rollers, the highly restricted Appert’s greenbul and myriad non-venomous snakes and endearing chameleons.
Clockwise from top left: Giant-striped mongoose; giraffe-necked weevil; red fody; yellow-bellied asity; long-tailed ground roller
Tsimanampetsotsa National Park
No discussion of southern Madagascar would be complete without mentioning the island’s seemingly inhospitable but enthralling spiny forests (cover image above). Situated in the south-western corner of Madagascar, the 432km2 (43,200 hectares) Tsimanampetsotsa National Park lies in the driest part of the country and protects a section of this unique ecoregion. This is a difficult area to access, but it is not impossible – you can catch a boat to Anakao from Toliara and then a four-wheel-drive or open truck tour from Anakao to the park. The park can only be accessed by road. One has to wonder at the various pronunciations of the name local taxibrousse (a Malagasy bush taxi) drivers must have heard from eager tourists. Tsimanampetsotsa takes its name from Lake Tsimanampetsotsa – the “lake in which no dolphins live”. There are indeed no dolphins in the salty waters, but at certain times of the year (April-November), the alkaline lake is covered in a pink flush of greater and lesser flamingos.
Tsimanampetsotsa is also home to one of the rarest carnivorans in the world: the Grandidier’s mongoose (also known as the giant-striped mongoose or Grandidier’s vontsira). As playful and bold as any mongoose species, they are commonly seen at campsites searching for scraps. They are not found anywhere else on the island.
Away from the sacred salt lake and associated wetlands, the landscape changes to the sparse dry woodlands that define the ecoregion of southern Madagascar. The region boasts exceptionally high levels of plant endemism, with an estimated 95% of plant species classified as endemic. These include the unmistakable octopus trees (Didierea madagascariensis) – a kind of woody semi-succulent not dissimilar to a cactus. They sport enormous and vicious-looking thorns, but this does little to deter the groups of critically endangered Verreaux’s sifaka from clambering and leaping between them. With their profoundly disproportionate limbs, these sifakas are designed for arboreal life, and when moving across the ground, they are forced to do a two-legged canter on their back legs, with arms thrust out to the side for balance.
Scattered within the dry forest plant life are the brooding outlines of ancient, squat baobabs. Known as fony (sacred) baobabs (Adansonia rubrostipa), these trees are fascinating ecosystems in their own right. An ancient baobab, nicknamed the “Grandmother” (or “Mother of the Forest”), has recently been revealed to consist of three different, fused trees: one 200 years old, one 1,000 years old and the oldest being 1,600 years old. The roadrunner-like long-tailed ground-roller dashes around at the base of these trees, its wings lined by bright blue streaks. In the Mitoho Grotto, a hidden cave, blind sleeper goby fish still swim the freshwater pools, isolated forever. Here, fossils bear testament to a time when giant lemurs the size of small gorillas once roamed.
One need not travel to Tsimanampetsotsa if it is a little out of the way and time is limited. A few kilometres north of Toliara, in the Ifaty area, there are great lodges, a reef, guides and bird guides that will show you Didierea and baobabs along with all the bird endemics the area has to offer.
Berenty Reserve
On the banks of the Mandrare River, the small private Berenty Reserve also protects around a third of Madagascar’s remaining tamarind gallery forest. It is a popular destination for visitors looking for close encounters of the lemur kind – ring-tailed lemurs are the true stars of Berenty. Lucky visitors might be treated to a sighting of a Verreaux’s sifaka’s “dancing” movements. Other great fauna to look out for in Berenty include Dumeril’s boa, Madagascar flying fox, sickle-billed vangas and running coua.
Ring-tailed lemurs
The ins and outs of exploring southern Madagascar
Want to go on safari? to Madagascar? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.
Madagascar’s tropical climate is typically enjoyable all year round. However, the wet season and tropical cyclones during the summer (November to March) can make Ranomafana National Park inaccessible. The cooler dry season from April until October alleviates the worst of the oppressive heat, which is particularly important when exploring the island’s central highlands or southernmost tip where temperatures regularly exceed 35–40˚C. You will need just over two weeks to explore this part of Madagascar.
There are plenty of budget and camping opportunities in or near all of the major parks, but luxury accommodation is relatively sparse. An exploration of Madagascar is often a rough and ready experience. It is advisable to travel in Madagascar with a reputable company, but hiring a car to drive between the various attractions is possible. The roads are bad, particularly during the wet season, and a 4×4 is essential. Parts of the central plateau are dangerous to travel through, and it is advisable not to travel alone without being well informed.
Land of plenty
Madagascar is a fantastical land – a natural evolutionary playground and a human kaleidoscope of cultural influences. Remarkable, offbeat, and enticing, this magical island offers an intoxicating combination of unique wildlife viewing and magnificent scenery. There is far more to Madagascar than our series could ever hope to convey, but there is no question that it is a country with something to offer every nature enthusiast. Our travel consultants are always on standby to help you plan the Madagascan holiday of your dreams.
The rainforest of Ranomafana National Park
Want to plan your safari? Get in touch with our travel team to start the discussion.
Ken Behrens is a birder, naturalist, consultant, guide, and photographer, who is based in Madagascar. He is the co-author of several books, including Wildlife of Madagascar. His work can be seen at ken-behrens.com
I see you. Okavango Delta, Botswana. 2019 Photographer of the Year entrant Clare Doolan
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Top 101 photos + leopard Hosana’s death + Kaokoland’s Himba
The southern hemisphere autumn chill has nothing on the incandescence emitting from AG’s Photographer of the Year 2022. The competition is hotting up, and we’ve selected the Top 101 entries (from a whopping total of 7,389 submissions!) for the year. Our winners are somewhere in these four galleries below.
Hosana, famous leopard of Sabi Sand, has been killed. News of the leopard’s untimely death evoked an outpouring of emotion on social media. Sabi Sand has subsequently issued another statement defending the APU’s actions, stating “there is exponentially more at play here than meets the eye,” and that this “isolated incident is in fact a miniscule fraction of a much bigger picture”. Sadly, further details are unforthcoming. The facts we do know so far are contained in Jamie’s balanced and heartfelt reflection on the incident and Hosana’s life, in our first story below.
In our second story, anthropologist Izzy Sasada delves deep into the challenges facing Kaokoland’s Himba people, reflecting on how climate change and marginalisation are forcing Namibia’s iconic tribe towards modernity.
On a brighter note, safari season is upon us!Check out the hundreds of options we have for travel across the continent – it’s not too late to plan your 2022 travels.
Happy indulging in Africa to you all!
Taryn van Jaarsveld — Editor
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Did you know that leopards sometimes fall asleep while hunting? Admittedly, no one else I have spoken to has ever witnessed something similar, and my sample size for this fact is one leopard. His name was Hosana, and I was watching him hunt impalas. He was still relatively young, and I think he might have been trying to learn from past failed hunts, which he had messed up with an overeager approach.
He was crouched in the grass, watching the herd gradually moving towards him. It was one of those gloriously warm autumn days, and the antelope were in no hurry. When the moment finally arrived for him to launch an attack, nothing happened. Still nothing happened when one of them stepped just two metres away from his head. And then the impalas were gone, and I took a closer look. Hosana had dozed off, blissfully unaware that his lunch had just wandered away.
This was just one of the memories running through my mind as I wrote our first story below.
The BEST VALUE in the Maasai Mara right now is this 6-day safari at the intimate Enkewa Camp in the southeastern Maasai Mara ecosystem. This eco-friendly camp is owner run, so expect attention to detail and a homely feel – ideal for singles, couples and groups seeking to recharge their batteries and enjoy traditional Kenyan hospitality.
And, for the lovers of art, we have one place left on this popular art safari in Manyeleti Game Reserve in the Greater Kruger. This last place is for ladies only because you will share your room with another lady. Join professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls, who will share advice and tips in the field and back in camp.
Wildlife viewing is excellent – Manyeleti boasts regular sightings of the Big 5 (lion, leopard, rhino, elephant, buffalo) and other species such as zebra, hippo and giraffe, and predators such as cheetah, hyena and African wild dogs, which are regularly encountered.
WATCH: Longing for a new experience, for an escape? Retreat to the makhani palm forests of Kaokoland, Namibia, to refresh the soul. Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp is a magical, cosy lodge on the Kunene River, where you’ll experience the culture of Namibia’s iconic tribe, the Himba people (02:30). Click here to watch
Here are the Top 101 entries in our 2022 Photographer of the Year! We will announce the overall winner and two runners-up in the beginning of June. They will share US$10 000 in prize money and join their partners and our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.
This is Gallery 4 of the Top 101. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 101 galleries, click below:
Here are the Top 101 entries in our 2022 Photographer of the Year! We will announce the overall winner and two runners-up in the beginning of June. They will share US$10 000 in prize money and join their partners and our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.
This is Gallery 3 of the Top 101. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 101 galleries, click below:
Here are the Top 101 entries in our 2022 Photographer of the Year! We will announce the overall winner and two runners-up in the beginning of June. They will share US$10 000 in prize money and join their partners and our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.
This is Gallery 2 of the Top 101. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 101 galleries, click below:
Here are the Top 101 entries in our 2022 Photographer of the Year! We will announce the overall winner and two runners-up in the beginning of June. They will share US$10 000 in prize money and join their partners and our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.
This is Gallery 1 of the Top 101. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 101 galleries, click below: Gallery 2 Gallery 3 Gallery 4
Deep in the heart of Kaokaland in the Namibian desert live the Himba people – a group of semi-nomadic pastoralists who have lived there for hundreds of years. But climate change, combined with a lack of government support and ongoing marginalisation, is forcing this iconic tribe to choose which parts of modernity to claim, and which to reject.
Namibia’s iconic tribe
If you are familiar with any of Africa’s tribal groups, it is probably the Himba. The tribe are renowned for their unique adornments and their continued adherence to tradition. Women of the tribe are bare-breasted and heavily decorated with symbolic jewellery. They cover their bodies with ‘otjize’, a mixture of animal fat and ochre which gives their skin and hair a reddish hue.
Traditionally, these cattle-herding tribes live in wooden huts which encircle a sacred ancestral fire, and daily work revolves around rearing and herding livestock.
The Himba people have long avoided contact with the modern world, continuing their quiet lives of pastoral cattle-herding in the barren corner of north-western Namibia for generations. The region had no direct Western influence until well into the 20th century, and little is known about the inhabitants of Kaokoland before the first European expeditions in the remote area.
Consequently, the Himba people have often been presented (in particular in recent tourism brochures) as timeless and archaic, representing a ‘forgotten’ or ‘ancient’ age of Africa.
A traditional Himba village near Epupa Falls
A foot in each world
Whilst presented as isolated from the modern world, in reality, many Himba people are now moving towards modernity. As the tribe is in transition, Himba culture is not static nor homogenous, and while some aspects of their lifestyle are being left behind, new opportunities await those moving from the barren desert to towns.
For those members of the tribe keen to take the plunge, the nearest town is Opuwo, the capital of the Kunene region. The small settlement contains schools, shops and petrol stations, and for many newcomers, it is the first taste of life in the 21st century.
For an unfamiliar traveller, it is indeed a sight. The town is a melting pot of Namibia’s other tribes too, and large groups converge on the streets of Opuwo, drinking beer, chatting on mobile phones, and gathering in their dozens. Seen alongside the Himba tribe are the Herero people, known for their extravagant Victorian-style dresses, and also members of the Zemba group.
Clockwise from top left: Many Himba people who live in Opuwo live in makeshift tented accommodation; Himba women take their shopping home after a day in Opuwo; A Himba family in a semi-traditional homestead of Otjakati; Portraits of Himba women in Opuwo
Push factors
Compared to traditional living, life in towns such as Opuwo may seem more convenient, but in reality, there are more push than pull factors causing people to move from rural homesteads.
Mr Ondoba, a Himba traditional chief whose original homestead is 180km north of Opuwo, explains why his family has made the journey south. “Life has become far harder for us in recent years,” he says. Sitting in the shade of one of Opuwo’s many bars, he has a miniature spear tucked behind his ear which he uses to snort ground tobacco between sentences. “We lost all of our cattle to drought a few years ago, and that’s why we’re here. Life without cattle – it is impossible.”
Mr Ondoba now owns a small garden in Opuwo to harvest maize and other plants. While he and his family have enough to survive, his current lifestyle is a far cry from that established in the historic practice of cattle-herding.
The loss of cattle makes it practically impossible for traditional life to continue, as cattle are the basis for subsistence; the need to graze cattle has dictated the Himba’s nomadic way of life for hundreds of years. Cattle have cultural significance too, determining social status, and forming an integral part of marriage and dowries.
Scenes from a traditional village in the Epupa Falls area (first three images); frequent droughts have led to widespread livestock loss throughout the Kunene region
Many other Himba residents in Opuwo share a similar story to Mr Ondoba. Down the street, sisters Veerii and Ondu sit on the hard floor, drinking beer. They, likewise, have moved to Opuwo in recent years. “Before, in Onjuva [a homestead about an hour’s drive away] things were better for us. We could live easily. But our cattle were taken – we think by a lion, and we could not stay.”
Namibia’s Community Based Natural Resource Management (CBNRM) programme provides compensation when livestock is lost to predators through the human-wildlife conflict compensation scheme. But it appears the scheme’s efforts are proving inadequate for many.
According to Dr Michael Bollig, an anthropologist who has conducted extensive fieldwork in the Kunene region, the human-wildlife conflict compensation is a “cumbersome process, whereby the conditions are nonsensical.”
“Compensation is a tricky business,” he explains, “conservancy budgets are often too small to adequately compensate for lost livestock, and local communities do not have the administrative infrastructure right away to compensate for this pertinent issue – how could they?’
“Resultantly, compensation is returned at a quarter of the market price for cattle, sometimes after far too great of a waiting time, and the management is so complicated that very few are successful.”
Veerii and her sister’s experience supports this. “We knew we were on a list waiting for compensation, but we never received the money.” Veerii explains, “if the government helped us just by providing say two or three goats, we could rebuild our livestock and we would not have to beg here.”
Livestock loss is exacerbated by extreme droughts which have plagued the region in recent years. Some scientists believe these extreme conditions to be linked to climate change. As global temperatures are set to rise further in the coming decades, the situation in Kunene reflects the general global trend of climate change impacting socio-economically vulnerable groups, from countries that have contributed the least to global emissions.
New problems
For all their hopes of a new life in Opuwo, things are perhaps a disappointment for many Himba people who have made the move. Life in a town requires money, and it is difficult for newcomers to find employment. Many Himba people now survive from the government’s pension scheme, often with one person’s pension handout providing for the entire family.
In homestead Otjakati, just an hour’s drive from Opuwo, life is far quieter. Here, the elders worry about the fate of those looking for employment in towns.
‘”They leave looking for a job, but they won’t find one. Even the most educated Himba won’t get a job,” one of the elders explains. “Then, they turn to things like drinking and end up spending all of the money on alcohol, and then the problems start, like crime and prostitution.”
Alcoholism certainly appears to be a problem amongst Himba urbanites, and the streets of Opuwo are lined with numerous bars.
Discrimination, and favouritism towards dominant tribes are felt to be reasons why few Himba people attain employment. “Most Himba cannot even get a sweeping job,” Ueri tells me, “people think we are dirty.”
A make-shift tent set up in Opuwo; a Himba woman pictured in a village in the Epupa Falls area; Himba women visit a grocery store in Opuwo; one of the many bars which line the streets of Opuwo, often frequented by Himba people; a Himba woman in Opuwo
A tribe in transition
The world for the Himba people is changing. With inadequate compensation when cattle are lost to predators, exacerbated by an increased frequency of droughts, it is likely that more Himbas will be forced towards towns like Opuwo in search of employment.
Anthropologist and conservation pioneer Margie Jacobson, who has spent decades conducting fieldwork with the Himba tribe, explains how this move is impacting the group.
“Whilst they continued to be great subsistence herders for generations after contact with so-called ‘modernity’,” she says, “now their social systems are beginning to erode.”
A Himba woman in the traditional homestead of Otjakati
“Now,” she explains, “those… democratic and powerful structures are breaking down. With the introduction of euro-centric education, party politics, wage labour and a cash economy, in many cases, every man is for himself.”
Recent research also indicates a loss of indigenous knowledge as Himba people move to towns, with cosmopolitan Himbas experiencing a reduced ability to focus during optical tests than their pastoral counterparts (much like urban people who also exhibit this reduced ability to focus).
Although the Himba people now face a plethora of previously unfamiliar problems as the modern world encroaches upon them, their historical resilience in the face of change should give us hope. Culture is not static, and the Himba should not be perceived as fossilised relics of a past time.
And why shouldn’t they enter the ‘modern’ world?
“The Himba are people,” says Margie, “they want the things that we want, and they have every right to them.”
Asking the elders at Otjakato “where will you be in 20 years’ time?” they assert in response, “we will still be in the homestead, where we belong… but of course, we will visit Opuwo.”
For insight into Himba traditions and history, read more here.
For travellers hoping to experience the traditional culture of the Himba people, Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp hosts guided visits to a Himba village in the Epupa area (proceeds contribute to care packages for the village). This lodge in the heart of Kaokoland is based on the perennial Kunene River.
The message on our group chat read, “Guys, just reading now that Hosana has been killed”. It was followed by a screenshot of the official announcement from the Sabi Sand Wildtuin social media account (the official social media account of Sabi Sand Game Reserve) confirming that a male leopard had been killed by an anti-poaching unit acting in self-defence. The statement, released on Friday, 6 May 2022, notes a “strong likelihood that the leopard was the Hosana male” – a leopard made famous by the Wild Earth live safaris that had followed his story since birth. I have known him since he was born, as I was guiding in Sabi Sand at the time.
Hosana – the legend
Hosana has been in the spotlight since he was only a few hours old. He was born in Djuma Private Game Reserve in the Sabi Sand Game Reserve (Greater Kruger) on the 2nd of February 2016. We know this because footage of him and his sister, Xongile, was broadcast across the globe during a live safari only a few hours after his birth. His mother, Karula, was a legend in her own right and an extremely confiding cat, even when tracked on foot. She allowed us untold hours of access to her cubs, and we watched with joy from the vehicles as they slowly transformed from tiny, clumsy balls of fluff to miniature versions of the lithe predators they were destined to become.
We realised that Karula was sufficiently comfortable for us to approach her and the cubs on foot, though we never pushed her boundaries by trying to get too close. Hosana and Xongile became increasingly accustomed to these strange bipedal interlopers, initially curious but eventually ignoring us. We would sit on the ground and watch two wild leopard cubs play, and I would have to pinch myself occasionally at the magic of it all. He was named Hosana – meaning “the little chief” – and he became famous.
Karula was getting older and eventually disappeared in 2017, just after the cubs turned a year old. Xongile vanished shortly afterwards, following a savage fight with her older sister. Suddenly alone in the world, Hosana had to face independence far sooner than he was ready for, and we watched his struggles with bated breath as the Little Chief learnt to survive.
Against all odds, he did survive and, in so doing, won the hearts of the thousands of people who watched his transformation from bumbling teenager hunting terrapins to a skilled predator. He regularly waltzed through the camp, often in broad daylight, drank from the swimming pool, and occasionally came and looked through the windows of my room. One of the last times I saw Hosana, he was sleeping peacefully 15 metres away from where I was standing. He was three years old and dispersed shortly after that.
We watched from afar like proud mother hens as Hosana filled out, gained a few new scars and eventually established his territory and began siring cubs.
Hosana caught napping, using leftover meat as a pillow; Hosana in his youth; on the prowl; pictured as a young cub; resting in the safety of a tree
The incident
On Friday, 6 May 2022, the Sabi Sand Wildtuin social media pages released a statement confirming that an adult male leopard, believed to be Hosana, had “ambushed” an anti-poaching unit (APU) patrolling a drainage line at dusk. They “responded in self-defence resulting in the leopard losing its life”. Africa Geographic immediately reached out to the Sabi Sand authorities to request further information about the date of the incident and a detailed explanation of the circumstances that led to the leopard’s death. AG also asked for images to confirm that the leopard was, as the statement suggested, Hosana. AG had not yet received a response at the time of publication but will update this article as and when one is forthcoming. None of our other sources were able to confirm conclusively that the leopard was Hosana (through images). However, we can safely assume that it was Hosana as the Sabi Sand authorities would not have invited the inevitable outcry without cause.
The unfortunate use of the word “ambushed” was a poor choice and seemed to imply that Hosana set out to do deliberate harm to the APU. Of course, leopards can and do hunt people on rare occasions (and assuming the leopard wouldn’t hurt people just because it was Hosana is anthropomorphism at its worst). Perhaps this was precisely what happened, but such opportunistic attacks on people are unusual. It seems highly unlikely that Hosana would target a group, especially given his history of being tracked on foot.
The first statement noted that “a full investigation” had been carried out, and it was concluded that all safety protocols were adhered to. However, a second statement was issued on 8th May, stating that the Sabi Sand authorities had conducted “preliminary investigations”, “will be engaging further with the contracted Anti Poaching Unit”, and “are conducting a full investigation”. They confirm that a more detailed statement will be forthcoming.
Bravery in the face of danger
Speculation is inevitable without knowing the exact details of how it all played out (and the conspiracy theories that spring up are almost impressive). We do not know the circumstances – the leopard may have been sick, injured, mating or defending a kill. The APU may have been moving very silently (as would be expected during an anti-poaching patrol) and surprised him. However, we can say that the APU must have believed that he posed a real and immediate threat to their safety. These men and women risk their lives to protect our continent’s most endangered animals, and we cannot vilify their reaction in the heat of the moment. They work under considerable pressure and in perilous circumstances. That was not Hosana the beloved leopard to them – it was an animal capable of killing a person with relative ease and speed.
No matter how special that leopard was to so many, a leopard’s life cannot be valued above an anti-poaching team’s safety. Their work in protecting the region’s rhinos and other endangered species and searching for and clearing snares is vital and requires enormous bravery. When patrolling the bushveld on foot, there is always a risk of encountering a potentially deadly animal, and things can go wrong quickly. Just a few days before the announcement about Hosana, 36-year old Shando Mathebula was killed by a buffalo while carrying out his duties as a field ranger in the Kruger National Park. By virtue of the nature of their work, APUs are forced to move quietly at risky times of the day, increasing their chances of a lethal encounter. It could have been an elephant, hippo, lion, or buffalo, but in this case, it was Hosana.
A tragic combination of circumstance
We are not able to comment on what wildlife training the APU in question had received. However, a full-blown leopard warning charge is a genuinely terrifying thing, and it requires preparation and training to face it down and then extricate oneself safely. It can be explosive, loud and fast. This incident does emphasise the importance of training those who operate in the field to handle wildlife encounters – both for their safety and that of the animals they meet in the line of duty. There may be circumstances where there is no option but to shoot an animal to save lives, but it should always be the last resort.
If the leopard in question is Hosana, he was cut down in his prime. This is an absolute tragedy. I mourn for the leopard we knew and loved – a goofball who treated us to endless hours of both hilarious antics and fascinating leopard behaviour. We learned so much from him about leopard life, and I am so profoundly grateful for having had the opportunity to watch him grow. To me, and to so many, he was a special cat, and while he would never have known it, he changed a fair few lives for the better. His clumsy insouciance was undeniably endearing, his resilience heartening. After everything he survived, it is deeply upsetting for those who knew him that he died in this way.
In loving memory of Hosana, 2016 – 2022
I cannot find it in my heart to blame the actions of the APU, though I do not doubt that they are currently being dragged through the mud on various platforms. I hope that lessons were learnt and that his death was not entirely in vain.
I am sorry, Hosana, for how things ended. You inspired a love of Africa and her creatures in people of every generation across the world, and I hope that when the grief is less raw, your legacy will continue to drive that passion and bring people together. I donated to a rehabilitation and anti-poaching organisation in your memory because, to me, you were the essence of the wild, and now, more than ever, the wild needs our support.
Rest in peace, Little Chief.
Want to send your tributes to Hosana? Join the club to share your memories and tributes below. Learn how below this story.
Resources
Read about Hukumuri, another leopard made famous by live safaris, who died last year.
The setting sun spotlights a herd of elephants in Botswana’s Okavango Delta. Photographer of the Year 2019 entrant.
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Last epic photo entries + best spots to see leopard + the swallow songstress
The hairy rock fig tree is again dripping with delicious ripe figs, and our bushveld garden is the centre of attention for frugivores seeking that energy fix. Green pigeons, black-collared barbets, grey go-away-birds and other feathered beauties are jostling for the spoils during the day, and epauletted fruit bats and woodland dormice are amongst the nighttime partygoers. OK, this exciting news (for us) does not rock the world like Elon Musk buying Twitter or Depp suing Heard for US$50m – but it’s all relative. Right? Enjoy your own personal relativity – it’s free and all around you. Seriously.
In other local news, the onset of the dry winter months sees queleas begin to flock like locusts and the thinning out bushveld means that we now hear more roaring lions and whooping hyenas during the dark hours. The morning air has a chill to it, and that morning dose of pressed coffee goes down like a home-sick mole 🙂
This is also the start of the safari season – a busy time for teamAG (loving it) – and our clients are out there having fun, learning stuff and making a difference. Safari njema!
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
I’m a bit giddy this week as the final entries for Photographer of the Year are now in. We had so many extraordinary pics in our last round of submissions that we’ve put together two jam-packed galleries for you.
Our entrants this week have scoured under-explored corners of the continent. I’m particularly taken with the photos of Sahara wanderers, Sebeïba ceremonies, and Algeria’s ancient Hoggar Mountains. Omar Dib’s images invoke echoes of spiritualism past and ethereal glimpses into the present. Also not to be missed is some otherworldly underwater photography. There’s plenty to satisfy the wildlife cravings too, including a black leopard photographed in the dead of night in Laikipia. Check out our two galleries below.
In our story, you’ll also spot a black leopard – and tips on where to find one – which will likely serve as a reference for your leopard-seeking adventures for years to come. We’ve compiled a list of our seven favourite leopard-viewing destinations for (almost) guaranteed sightings. So read on and let the adventures begin!
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Did you know that female songbirds sing? Goodness Jamie, I hear you exclaim, of course they do! That is patently obvious to anyone who has ever spent more than five minutes watching a member of the enormous Passeri (songbird) clade.
And yet, scientists only just recently confirmed that female barn swallows (one of the most researched bird species on the planet) like a good ditty as much as their male companions. How did this come to be? It comes down to research bias, and the authors of the resulting paper explain it best themselves. However, one of their conclusions is that “men [the predominant researchers] are significantly less likely than women to lead research projects studying female song”. Of course, the reverse is true in some cases. For instance, we are only just beginning to understand the role of bull elephants in herd memory, behaviour and demographics.
Biases aside, the female birdsong revelation also shows that sometimes a disconnect can develop between science and the bleedin’ obvious.
We have a few places left on our 2023 photographer-guided safari to the wild Chitake Springs (Mana Pools, Zimbabwe). The safari sold out within hours of going live on our website, so we opened a second slot for those that missed out. We will not be adding further slots for 2023 because the authorities restrict volumes – for good reason. Last chance to reserve your place on this epic safari!
– Here is why you need to go on this safari
– Check out the details here
JUST DO IT
For the pursuit of culinary delights and Big 5 safari heaven, there is this: Bush & beach, Pinotage to predators – South Africa – 12 days. You know you want to
WATCH: In the coming weeks, billions of newly spawned sardines will flank the coast of South Africa. The frenzy of pursuant predators will produce a spectacle followed by hundreds of marine enthusiasts. See what the Sardine Run fuss is all about (03:04). Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.
Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.
There are many reasons why leopards are at the top of African safari request lists. Breathtakingly beautiful, charismatic, powerful, elusive, mysterious, and endlessly unpredictable – no one adjective can fully capture the wild essence of these impressive cats. Whether draped lazily across a tree bough or concealing themselves for a slow stalk and decisive pounce, no one leopard sighting is ever the same. We’ve compiled a list of our favourite leopard viewing destinations for (almost) guaranteed sightings.
A leopard spotted in Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve
1. The Greater Kruger, South Africa
This corner of South Africa is famous for its spectacular leopard encounters, especially in the southern regions of the Greater Kruger, where leopard densities are at their highest. Private reserves like Sabi Sands Game Reserve have a long history of leopard habituation, and the leopards here are probably the most relaxed on the continent. The guides and trackers in these areas are intimately familiar with the territories and movements of their spotted comrades and will provide a background (and even lineage) of the individuals seen.
2. South Luangwa National Park, Zambia
Vying with the Greater Kruger for the highest leopard densities on the continent, South Luangwa National Park is a haven for these elegant cats. The verdant floodplains, oxbow lakes, and riverine forests along the Luangwa River – the region’s lifeblood – are perfect pardine territory. Guests are regularly treated to multiple leopard sightings in a day.
3. Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana
The wetlands, grasslands, and thickets of the Okavango Delta teem with wildlife and predators abound in this rich wilderness. While animal viewing in Moremi Game Reserve is typically at its best during the dry season, wild dog and leopard sightings are the norm year-round.
See leopards year-round in Moremi; leopard densities are high in Greater Kruger; guests enjoy regular sightings of the cats in South Luangwa
4. Samburu National Park, Kenya
Unofficially designated as the leopard capital of Kenya, arid and dramatic Samburu’s rocky outcrops and striking riverine trees provide perfect vantage points where leopards can strike the typical photographic pose. And with Samburu being somewhat off the beaten African safari track, chances are you won’t have to share your sighting with a crowd of eager tourists.
5. The Mara-Serengeti Ecosystem, Kenya and Tanzania
Leopard densities in the Mara-Serengeti Ecosystem are high, and, like our first four destinations, a sighting of at least one individual is all but guaranteed. However, what sets this region apart is the magnificent scenery, which has the potential to change the entire character of a sighting. Instead of lurking in the thickets, the leopards of Mara-Serengeti are often obliged to move in the open or through tall grassland. The sight of a leopard dwarfed by the sheer scale of the expansive Maasai Mara or renowned Serengeti is not easily forgotten. Throw in typical leopard unpredictability and the chaos of the Great Migration, and the scene is set for genuinely extraordinary and action-packed encounters.
6. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa & Botswana
With their effortless beauty, leopards are suited to almost any setting but are perhaps most breath-taking against the ochre and gold palette of the Kalahari Desert. Naturally, the leopard population here occurs at lower densities, and sightings are not necessarily a given. However, the sparse vegetation works to the advantage of eagle-eyed visitors.
7. Laikipia County, Kenya
Laikipia County is one for the leopard connoisseur – those fortunate enough to have travelled and filled many a memory card with pictures of leopards from around the continent. The county, and Loisaba Conservancy, in particular, has recently found social media acclaim with the revelation that it is home to unusual black leopards. These mysterious cats have a rare genetic mutation that results in melanism and are believed to be more common in forested areas where their atypical colouring works to hide them in the shadows. Of course, they are elusive, and there are no guarantees – but isn’t anticipation half the fun of an African safari?
Maasai Mara leopards bring the action; if you’re lucky, you may spot a black leopard in Laikipia; the dramatic Kgalagadi landscapes make for excellent sightings of leopards; have a leopard sighting all to yourself in Samburu.
Special mention: Nyika National Park, Malawi
Malawi’s concerted conservation efforts have borne exceptional biodiversity and resulted in a nascent tourism industry offering singular safari experiences. Nyika National Park extends across the vast Nyika Plateau, an enormous granitic dome over 2000 metres above sea level. The rolling hills are home to the highest density of leopards in Malawi, and while the secretive cats are still somewhat shy, sightings are becoming increasingly common, particularly at night. The positive feedback loop of growing numbers of tourists supplementing conservation funding has gone a long way to securing the future of one of Africa’s most unique wildernesses.
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Last chance + Tarangire’s migration + farewell to super tusker Tolstoy
Last chance …
This is the FINAL COUNT DOWN for entries to our immeasurably inspirational Photographer of the Year. Entries close in two days, and then my amazing team starts to sift through the weekly selections for the nuggets. US$10,000 and an epic Botswana safari on offer for the winners!
MEANWHILE, the South African Minister of Environment (et al.) has been instructed by the courts to pause her plans to issue trophy hunting quotas for leopards, black rhinos and elephants. In my op-ed of a few months ago, I bemoaned her application of suspect ‘science’ in her decision-making processes – and that’s precisely what the courts have decided. She failed to provide the requisite scientific evidence that such hunts would not be detrimental to the species, amongst other shortcomings. Watch this space for counter-measures by the trophy hunting industry and retabling of the quotas.
Surely it’s time for real science and demonstrable benefits to local people to be the primary parameters in these critical decisions and for political wrangling to exit backstage?
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
In ANOTHER BLOW to Africa’s dwindling population of giant elephants, Amboseli super tusker Tolstoy has died, six weeks after being treated for a spear wound. We celebrate the life of this iconic, majestic elephant in our second story below.
This week we had a really tough time narrowing down the excellent entries for our Photographer of the Year Week 12 selection. This gallery is one of our best yet – so grab a coffee and take a moment to browse and be inspired by some incredible moments captured around the continent. See the gallery below.
As a member of the AG tribe you are naturally familiar with the Great Migration. But another often forgotten national park in northern Tanzania offers a similar and no less sensational experience: the Tarangire Migration. Tarangire National Park is a mecca for wildlife enthusiasts. Every year during the dry season, the Tarangire River becomes one of the only available sources of water, and tens of thousands of animals are drawn to its banks. Read more about the true romance offered on safari in this national park, in our first story below.
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
The 27th of April was World Hyena Day, and while I have personally always found World Something Days a bit trite, I can never resist the urge to share a fun fact about my favourite animal.
There is a very persistent misconception (twisted from dated research) that spotted hyena cubs are the Cain and Abel of the animal kingdom – committing siblicide on a regular basis. Did you know that this is largely utter nonsense? Yes, hyena cubs are born with fully erupted teeth, and they will squabble to establish dominance during their first few weeks. During times of resource shortages, this hierarchy may translate to facultative siblicide because the dominant sibling outcompetes its submissive sibling for access to milk – but such instances are rare.
Given their already poor reputation, it seems unfair to suggest that spotted hyenas are born with such murderous instincts. Sibling bonds in hyenas are strong, and, for twin sisters, in particular, they may last a lifetime.
DESERT & DELTA – 11 days This iconic and ever-popular safari is about water – or the lack thereof. We visit Victoria Falls, Okavango Delta, Chobe and the desolate salt pans in our quest to understand how water defines southern Africa’s wild places. Options for all budgets.
WALKING WITH GIANTS – 13 days
Join us in Kenya’s Tsavo National Park as we follow the wise old elephant herds over an 80km walking route along the Galana River and onwards by vehicle to the Indian Ocean coast at Malindi. We hope to see huge elephant tuskers, the famous Tsavo maneless lions, rare hirola and fringe-eared oryx, the long-necked gerenuk and many of the over 500 bird species. This is an authentic safari – from a bygone era!
WATCH: This ghost town in Namibia is haunted by a rare creature. Watch how elusive brown hyenas have made a home in the Namib Desert ruins (03:14). Click here to watch
On the morning of his death on 27 April, rangers in Kimana Sanctuary (the central part of a corridor linking Amboseli National Park and Chyulu Hills) who had been checking on Tolstoy every morning and evening since the initial treatment, found him lying down. While it was not unusual for him to lie down, on closer inspection the rangers found that he was struggling to get up.
Tolstoy, moments after being treated for a spear wound six weeks before his death
“Following another treatment, the rescue team spent hours trying to get him back on his feet, eventually trying to prop him up with a front-end loader,” says BLF’s Jeremy Goss. “But this time around, he was just too weak, and died lying there.”
The combined efforts of thirty people from KWS, DSWT, and BLF, one helicopter, four vehicles, the front-end loader, and the best veterinary medicine possible was not enough to prevent Tolstoy from succumbing to his injury.
KWS and DSWT vet teams treat Tolstoy’s spear wounds on the day he died; BLF rangers share a moment with Tolstoy – an elephant they monitored and looked after every day for several years – after his death
Tolstoy was a member of the prolific TD family of super tuskers, and survived multiple spear wounds and drought over the years. He was uncle to Amboseli’s famous elephant, Tim, who died in 2020 at the age of 50. The two were often seen together and maintained a kinship throughout their lives. Tolstoy’s mother, Teresia, was the matriarch and leader of the TD family, known for her long, straight tusks. “The males born to the TD family have all been magnificent and each one has had a calm and gentle personality,” according to Amboseli Trust for Elephants. “Tim and Tolstoy had many friends among the independent males and were much admired by the females.” Tolstoy’s tusks were once so long that they grazed the ground as he walked. But the lower portion of his tusks were sawn off by Kenya Wildlife Service in an attempt to relieve him of extra baggage – an action which was criticised by some at the time.
“Tolstoy was one of the few elephants in Africa with thick tusks that grazed the ground,” according to Elephant Voices. “To the world he was a super tusker. To us, he was Tolstoy, an elephant who came up through the ranks over the course of the time we have worked in Amboseli – from a calf in a well-known family, to a role model to younger males and a father to many of Amboseli’s younger elephants.”
Super tuskers Tim (left) and Tolstoy (right) were lifelong companions (photo courtesy @ryan.wilkie.photos)
One of Kenya’s much-loved elephant elders and ultimately a victim of human-wildlife conflict, Tolstoy was well known by conservationists for his calm nature. The spear wound that led to his death was the fourth spearing incident he suffered in as many years. “The case of Tolstoy is a reminder that there is still a lot of work to be done and this will not be able to continue without financial support and the support from the communities who must reckon with Tolstoy and his like on a daily basis, especially with regards to land subdivision,” says BLF’s Josh Clay.
Land subdivision plans have been completed for areas in the Amboseli ecosystem, whereby one million acres have been divided into tens of thousands of privately owned plots. It is essential that communities and conservation organisations work together in creating land-use plans that take into account the needs of both humans and wildlife to prevent similar incidents of conflict in the future.
Tolstoy was a familiar sight in and around Amboseli (photos courtesy @ryan.wilkie.photos)
Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
We are open for entries from 1 February 2022 to midnight on 30 April 2022. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.
Northern Tanzania’s safari scene is dominated by the Serengeti and neighbouring Ngorongoro Crater. There are many good reasons for this – sightings are reliable, especially when the Great Migration is passing through, and the scenery is breathtaking. Yet there is a third, often forgotten, national park in the northern circuit: Tarangire National Park. Tarangire is a place of giant baobabs, fever tree forests, shimmering swamps and sweeping vistas, where wildlife roams in abundance. In this region, travel is still infused with the true romance of an African safari.
Tarangire National Park
Situated in Tanzania’s Manyara Region, just southeast of Lake Manyara National Park, Tarangire is just over 100km from the city of Arusha. This makes it easily accessible for travellers en route to the Serengeti National Park and Ngorongoro Conservation Area, situated further west. The national park extends over 2,850km2 (280,500 hectares), but the land available to wildlife is expanded by Game Controlled Areas, conservancies, and the Tarangire Conservation Area. Here, people and wildlife exist side-by-side. Several luxury lodges operate in these concessions on the park’s fringes, allowing their guests to experience both the park and the increased freedom away from its confines – by offering night drives, for example.
From the Tarangire River in the north, rolling hills give way to vast swamps. These soak up the rain like sponges and maintain a tinge of green, even during the dry season. Away from the watery marshlands, the landscape is dotted with granitic ridges, red-earth termite mounds and sparse whistling thorn (Vachellia drepanolobium) woodlands. Throughout, bulbous baobabs (Adansonia digitata) impose themselves upon the backdrop, dwarfing even the enormous herds of elephants that forage around them.
The Tarangire Migration
Life in the northern section of the park (in terms of lodges, campsites, and wildlife) revolves around the sinuous bends of the Tarangire River. This geographical feature plays a pivotal role in Tarangire’s most remarkable natural phenomenon – the Tarangire migration. Though not involving the same wildlife numbers as the famous Great Migration, Tarangire’s migration is arguably equally sensational given its strict seasonality and the exceptional variety and densities of wildlife.
The park is part of an enormous ecosystem that includes Lake Manyara, the Maasai Steppe, and the area from Lake Natron to Mount Kilimanjaro. Every year during the dry season, the Tarangire River becomes one of the only available sources of water, and tens of thousands of animals are drawn to its banks and floodplains from miles in every direction. These include several species of antelope, buffalo, giraffe and zebra. Elephants also arrive in their hundreds, and Tarangire is believed to have one of the largest elephant populations in Tanzania.
Tarangire’s landscape is dotted with whistling thorn woodlands; the river and residual pools attract wildlife; massive baobab trees are a highlight (giraffes for scale – follow @fabianfridholmphotography for more images)
Tarangire is an elephant enthusiast’s paradise. It is impossible to spend time in the park without encountering these iconic pachyderms, feeding at the base of a baobab, strolling through the riverine forests or playing in the mud of the marshes. They are often present in a conglomeration of herds that may number close to 300 individuals – an incredible sight for even the most seasoned safari-goer.
Elephants aside, Tarangire is home to one of the greatest concentrations of wildlife outside of the Serengeti ecosystem. The dry season influx of ungulates sees a profusion of wildebeest, zebra, gazelle, eland, hartebeest and buffalo assembled near the river, or around residual pools in the swamps. Such a concentration of prey serves to attract the attention of the park’s various resident predators – particularly the ever-attendant lions. The lions of the Silale Swamps are particularly renowned, not only for their marshy hunting techniques, but also for their habit of lounging in the boughs of trees, perhaps to escape the tsetse flies. Leopards and cheetah are also present, though less regularly seen, and even African painted wolves (wild dogs) come haring through the park on occasion.
Away from the wetter areas of the park, visitors may even be fortunate enough to spot a gerenuk or fringe-eared oryx, making Tarangire one of the few places in Tanzania to see these arid specialists.
Tarangire offers much in terms of sightings, from the over 500 species of birds recorded, including flamingos and yellow-collared lovebirds, to large herds of elephants and ample wildlife
Twitching through Tarangire
For those able to tear their eyes away from the mammal life on display, Tarangire’s many varied habitats confer it the status of one of Tanzania’s top birding hotspots, with over 500 species recorded. From chattering flocks of yellow-collared lovebirds to stately ostriches picking their way across the plains, avid birders will find it a struggle to know where to look next. In contrast to mammal viewing, the best bird sightings are during the wetter months (November to May). This is when the swamps come into their own for waterbird watching, and migrant arrivals fill the skies. In addition, many dry-region bird species such as vulturine guineafowl and northern pied babbler are present at the margins of their ranges. Enthusiasts can while away the hours searching for the drab but sought-after endemic rufous-tailed weavers and ashy starlings, or search for the flash of colour signalling the arrival of the dazzling red-and-yellow barbets.
Explore & Stay
Like much of East Africa, Tarangire experiences two rainy seasons: the “short” rains in November and the “long” rains in April and May. However, heavy rainfall can occur any time from November until May, and many of the lodges and camps close down for the rainy season when the park becomes boggy and difficult to traverse.
Accommodation ranges from the basic to luxury in Tarangire; a hot-air balloon safari offers an opportunity to see the Serengeti from a unique perspective at Lemala Mpingo Ridge Lodge; here, guests can enjoy sweeping views across the Tarangire River and valley
Accommodation options in Tarangire National Park and surrounds range from public and private campsites to high-end luxury lodges. Naturally, Tarangire is at its best during the dry season, from July until October. During this time, concentrations of wildlife are mind-boggling, and, conveniently, this is also when tsetse flies are at their least active. Walking safaris at this time of year are as phenomenal as game drives, and the open habitats allow for comfortable and easy encounters with the larger wildlife species. For those looking to combine their trip with a chance to see the Great Migration, this is generally when the zebra and wildebeest begin to move north into the Maasai Mara in Kenya.
One of the major attractions of Tarangire National Park is that even during the tourism high season (June to August) when many of the parks throughout Africa are at their busiest, it remains one of Tanzania’s best-kept, uncrowded secrets.
Tarangire Treetops is situated on the path of an annual elephant migration, amid a landscape of rolling, baobab-studded hills
The perfect safari
Tarangire is often treated simply as a stop-over between the more popular destinations on Tanzania’s northern safari circuit. Yet those visitors who opt to explore this varied and fascinating national park are richly rewarded by one of Africa’s most underrated safari destinations. With magnificent scenery and an abundance of wildlife, Tarangire National Park has every ingredient needed for the perfect safari.
Want to go on safari to Tarangire? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.
‘I see you’ – Etosha cheetah – 2017 Photographer of the Year entrant. 2022 entries close in twelve days.
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Epic pics (last chance to enter) + best pools + Mara family safari
There has been much ANGER and polarised debate about two of Africa’s largest elephants in Botswana being reduced to hunting trophies on some needy person’s wall. And so it should be – these critical issues need to be broadcast to the world so that decision-makers understand the gravity of the situation and work to stop this annihilation of Africa’s icons. Thanks to those who weighed into the debate in the comments beneath our breaking news report. As often happens, many of the large news networks picked up on our story and repackaged it for their audiences – excellent!
What has this got to do with your next African safari?
Our profound belief is that people should safari in Africa knowing the brutal truths, the SPECTACULAR joys, and the real difference they can make when choosing a long-haul African safari over a short-haul beach vacation. This is why teamAG blends these flavours into our eclectic story recipe for you – we believe that YOU want to know what makes Africa tick and how you can get involved via discussion, safari or donations. Sadly many safaris are still sold based on myths and a sanitised version of Africa.
Only one week left! If you haven’t entered Photographer of the Year, now’s your chance. The entries are boiling beyond fever pitch. This week’s selection (below) is one of our hottest yet, featuring famous gorilla Ndakasi and her rescuer André Bauma, and magnificent cats of the Mara. Enter now!
This week we’re also bringing some poolside magic to top off your safari. Whether your vibe is gazing out over the big blue in an oceanside pool, or spending your safari break taking a fresh dip while gazing over wildlife at a waterhole – we’ve got a recommendation for you in our second story.
Safe travels to you all.
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
If you haven’t seen the documentary Virunga, do yourself a favour and watch it immediately (or as soon as you have finished reading this newsletter). When you do, you will understand how André Bauma (see this week’s Photographer of the Year gallery) became beloved by millions worldwide. His unflinching refusal to leave his gorilla charges as the M23 rebel fighters invaded the national park was an act of absolute heroism.
Animals have always paid the price of our wars. Did you know that curlew sandpipers and many other bird species depart from Africa on their migration back to Europe in the next week or two? For many, their path will take them directly across the skies of Ukraine… Somewhat unsurprisingly, “warfare ecology” is becoming an increasingly important field of study.
This could be the BEST INVESTMENT you ever make Family safari SPECIAL OFFER – stay 4, pay 3. This classic 6-day safari at Enkewa Camp in Kenya’s Maasai Mara is what families dream of – for kids of all ages ;-). Expect fun activities in camp, a local village and the bushveld. And, of course, the usual Mara wildlife Big 5 extravaganza – enjoyed in a game drive vehicle, on foot or in a hot air balloon.
Zen Safari moments This 4-day SALT PANS add-on to your Botswana safari is ideal for that feeling (we all know it) at the end of an enthralling, exhausting wildlife safari when you want to chill out and reboot. Price ranges to suit all pockets
WATCH: The largest mammal migration on Earth. Can you guess the species? (0:44). Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
We are open for entries from 1 February 2022 to midnight on 30 April 2022. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.
Africa’s sensational destinations each come with their own magnetism. But no matter where you happen to find yourself, a magnificent swimming pool is guaranteed to add an extra element of magic.
Read on to discover our favourite pools in Africa.
What can be better than gazing out over the big blue, cocktail in hand, while floating in temperate, calm waters? Look no further to find the best oceanside pools.
Azulik Lodge, Vilanculos, Mozambique: Perched atop a massive dune in a wildlife sanctuary is the tropical paradise of Azulik Lodge. As views from infinity pools go, this one across this corner of the Indian Ocean is hard to beat. Grab an R&R (Tipo Tinto rum and raspberry) or some fruit kebabs, and let the peace of paradise wash over you.
Canelands Beach Club & Spa, Salt Rock, South Africa: With 180˚ views of the ocean, the long pool at Canelands Beach Club & Spa is the perfect spot to watch for the fins of passing dolphins surfing the waves.
Tintswalo Atlantic, Cape Town, South Africa: Situated on the ocean’s edge, below Chapman’s Peak and offering spectacular views of one of the most beautiful urban/natural settings in the world, the view from the Tintswalo Atlantic pool is simply unbeatable.
Grab a cocktail at Azulik Lodge; soak up Cape Town at Tintswalo Atlantic; search for dolphins at Canelands Beach Club & Spa
Best for bush views
You can never get too much of the bush. But after a long day out on safari, soaking it all up while washing off the day and taking in the surroundings can be just the decompression you need.
Ol Donyo Lodge, Chyulu Hills, Kenya: 1.4 million years ago, ancient tectonic forces began to propel lava to the surface in a series of volcanic eruptions that created the Chyulu Hills. Today, the swimming pool at Old Donyo Lodges looks out across this magnificent ancient scenery where some of the last great tuskers still roam.
Spot tuskers from Ol Donyo Lodge’s pool
Settlers Drift, Kariega Game Reserve, South Africa: Tucked into a steep, densely vegetated slope in a remote corner of Kariega Game Reserve, Settlers Drift offers spectacular views over the Bushman’s River, and the pool is the best spot to take it all in.
Khaya Ndlovu Manor House, Hoedspruit, South Africa: The infinity pool at Khaya Ndlovu Manor House looks out across to the Limpopo Drakensberg Mountains and over the miles of bushveld between. On a blazing hot Lowveld day, take refuge in the pool and watch arguably one of the most beautiful sunsets in the world.
Amalinda Lodge, Matobo Hills, Zimbabwe: Matobo Hills is Zimbabwe’s oldest national park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Like the rest of Amalinda Lodge, the swimming pool has been incorporated into a granite outcrop to look out across a wilderness of wildlife and history.
View the bush below at Settlers Drift; overlook the Drakensberg at Khaya Ndlovu Manor House; experience true wilderness at Amalinda Lodge
Kubu Kubu Tented Lodge, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania: In the heart of Serengeti National Park, the pool at Kubu Kubu Tented Lodge overlooks the vast sweeping plains of the “place where the land runs forever”. Close to the Maasai kopjes, the Museum of Olduvai Gorge, Seronera and the Grumeti River, visitors here will have no shortage of options for adventuring. But a day spent at the pool overlooking the bush is high up on the bucket list for memorable moments in the Serengeti.
Kubu Kubu Tented Lodge’s view over the Serengeti makes a whole day spent in the pool well worth it
Best for sighting wildlife
Don’t feel like being out on safari for the day? Satiate your FOMO by having your own sightings right in camp.
Mihingo Lodge, near Lake Mburo National Park, Uganda: Perched high atop the granite boulders of a kopje, the Mihingo Lodge infinity pool provides a magnificent vantage point for spotting wildlife in the savannah valley below.
Mihingo Lodge offers arguably one of the best pools in Africa
Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge, Gonarezhou National Park, Zimbabwe: On the northern border of Gonarezhou National Park, one of the last true pristine wilderness areas in Africa, Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge looks out across the vast expanse of the Save River. Sip a cocktail in the cool waters while watching animals moving in for a drink below.
Saruni Samburu, near Samburu National Reserve, Kenya: Guests of Saruni Samburu can take their pick between two different swimming pools that overlook a waterhole. Escape the arid heat and watch as some of Samburu’s fascinating wildlife wanders through! Check out our Samburu special offer here.
Gonarezhou’s Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge overlooks the Save River; view the waterhole from Saruni Samburu’s pool; take a dip in the Great Karoo at the Manor House in Samara
The Manor House, Samara Karoo Reserve, Great Karoo, South Africa: Samara Karoo Reserve is a pioneering conservation journey to regenerate South Africa’s semi-arid Great Karoo region through rewilding and responsible tourism. The mountain landscape unfolds over a 21-metre infinity pool, descending to a waterhole frequently visited by wildlife.
Best oases in the African heat
Africa’s sweltering sun and desert destinations don’t need to leave you feeling flustered. Soothe away the scorch in the cool welcoming waters.
Pel’s Post, Makuleke Contractual Park, Kruger National Park: The magnificent eco-lux property Pel’s Post offers views over the Luvuvhu River. It is an exclusive-use property, so the pool is shared only with family and friends. Temperatures in the magical Makuleke Contractual Park regularly exceed 40˚C, so a refreshing dip, with the sound of elephants not far off, is essential.
The swimming pool at Pel’s Post overlooks the Luvuvhu River
Chitwa Suite, Sabi Sands Game Reserve, South Africa: Picture this: you’re awoken at the crack of dawn with freshly brewed coffee, treated to a morning of leopard sightings and returned to the lodge for a sumptuous breakfast. The remaining hours of the day stretch ahead, begging to be filled with something relaxing yet extraordinary. As the sun bakes overhead, this is the perfect time to escape into the azure waters of your private swimming pool.
Kwessi Dunes Lodge, NamibRand Nature Reserve, Namibia: In the vast desert wilderness, the pool at Kwessi Dunes Lodge is a veritable oasis with a view of the waterhole that draws in wildlife day and night.
Mkulumadzi Lodge, Majete Wildlife Reserve, Malawi: This pool, perched above the confluence of the Shire and Mkulumadzi Rivers, is perfect for cooling off after a day out in Malawi’s Majete Wildlife Reserve. Surrounded by a riverine forest of marula, leadwood and star chestnut trees in a private concession, visitors will find true tranquillity in this piece of heaven.
Experience a true oasis in the Namibian desert at Kwessi Dunes Lodge; while away the hours in Chitwa Suite’s pool in Sabi Sands; take a cool poolside break at Mkulumadzi Lodge
Best for sundowners after a long day
Nothing can beat the magic of a sundowner on safari. But some spots offer just a little more magic than others – especially when you can float about, cocktail in hand.
Duba Plains Camp, Okavango Delta, Botswana: Raised above the marshy Delta on decking made of recycled railway sleepers, each suite at Duba Plains features a private plunge pool – the perfect private spot to watch the sun go down and reflect on a day packed full of Okavango action.
Duba Plains Camp offers private pools for each suite
Bakuba Lodge, Ankilibe, Madagascar: After a day exploring the nearby mangrove beach in the fishing village of Ankilibe, situated in magnificent southern Madagascar, this picturesque pool at Bakuba Lodge will offer welcome relief. Or choose to spend the day out taking a trip on the Onilahy River, and head back to the lodge to settle down for a local-rum cocktail.
Makanyi Private Game Lodge, Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, South Africa: The graceful curves of the Makanyi Lodge swimming pool are perfectly in keeping with the rest of the lodge aesthetic – graceful, yet unobtrusive in its bushveld setting.
Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda: World-famous Murchison Falls National Park was one of the premier safari destinations in Africa and is once again a park on the rise. Nile Safari Lodge and its glorious swimming pool look out over a tranquil section of the Nile River from a raised riverbank.
Enjoy sundowners above the Nile River at Nile Safari Lodge; take a breather poolside at Makanyi Private Game Lodge; Experience a sunset like not other at Bakuba Lodge
Pumulani Lodge, Lake Malawi, Malawi: Gaze over the sunset flickering over the waters of Lake Malawi in this stunning infinity pool. Set on top of a hill in this fascinating part of the world, one could be forgiven for thinking they’ve found paradise. When you’re not treading water in the pool, head down to the lake-shore bar for cocktails on the beach.
Best for immersing yourself in your surroundings
Just when you thought your experience of these destinations could not get better… These pools will make you feel like you can reach out and touch the forest, ocean, mountains or river nearby.
Lemala Wildwaters Lodge, Kalagala Island, Nile River, Uganda: Watch the fierce rapids of the mighty Nile River come tumbling right past from the cool, calm comfort of the Lemala Wildwaters swimming pool. A visit to this remote and wild section of the Nile is like stepping back in time.
The Nile River churns past at Lemala Wildwaters Lodge, offering one of the best pools one can experience
Denis Private Island, Seychelles: Does the idea of an infinity pool on a private tropical island seem like overkill? It isn’t, trust us. Rinse off the sea salt and float about in the shade, cocktail in hand.
Sundy Praia, Príncipe Island, São Tomé and Príncipe: Hidden in the veritable jungle, Sundy Praia is one of several historical plantations now overtaken by the wild forests of Príncipe. The crystal waters of the infinity pool merge perfectly with those of the Atlantic Ocean just beyond.
Track and Trail River Camp, bordering South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: Spend whole afternoons in this pool with views across the Luangwa river, surrounded by the sounds of the bush. Track and Trail River Camp is located on a breath-taking spot overlooking the South Luangwa National Park.
Denis Private Island is picture-perfect; view the river below while poolside at Track and Trail River Camp; Sundy Praia’s pool is perched above the Atlantic Ocean
Jua Retreat, Zanzibar, Tanzania: Situated in the southeast of Zanzibar on the tip of the Michamvi peninsula, Jua Retreat’s beaches and immersion into nature promise an extraordinary experience. This pool, mere metres from the beach, offers the chance to soak up the sea air in the cool respite of one of Africa’s most beautiful pools.
Breathe in the sea air while having a refreshing dip at Jua Retreat
Best for true luxury
As if the food, service, surroundings and safari are not enough: these pools epitomise the luxury offered by their respective establishments – and are perfectly selfie-worthy to boot!
Jack’s Camp, Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, Botswana: Jack’s Camp is resplendent in draped muslin and canvas – as is its pool. Shelter from the oppressive midday heat beneath the folds of the tent – a homage to a forgotten era of safari.
The iconic 1940s-style interiors at Jack’s Camp offer old-world luxury
Chikunto Safari Lodge, South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: Boutique luxury ecolodge Chikunto is located on the iconic ‘Big Bend’ site overlooking the Luangwa River in South Luangwa National Park in Luangwa Valley. The saltwater counter-current swimming pool overlooks a waterhole, providing an inviting space to cool off and relax, or even get some exercise – in between adventuring in the bush.
The Motse, Tswalu Kalahari Reserve, Kalahari, South Africa: From the landmark Korannaberg mountains to the grassy, red dunes rippling away to the horizon, this vast tract of Kalahari wilderness is one of the most atmospheric destinations on our list.
The Oyster Box, Umhlanga Beachfront, South Africa: The Oyster Box does nothing in half measures – unapologetic grandeur and lavish interiors adorn every corner of this exclusive luxury hotel. Naturally, the swimming pool would have to live up to the standard throughout the rest of the hotel, which it does in absolute style.
True romance at the Motse in Tswalu in one of Africa’s best pools; Chikunto Safari Lodge offers a boutique luxury ecolodge experience; the Oyster Box offers an iconic view of the Umhlanga lighthouse
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Tuskers hunted + best photos + 3 days in Vic Falls
A lucky few of you may be reading this newsletter from bed, the beach or while watching wildlife at a favourite waterhole – as a string of April holidays around the globe come as splendid respite. Perhaps you’re spending the temporary quietening of the mad rush dreaming up new travel exploits. Never fear, as teamAG’s wheels keep on turning!
I highly recommend drawing travel inspiration from this week’s Photographer of the Year gallery below. I’m blown away by the diverse subject matter in this week’s selection, including a number of allegories on life and death from Chobe, Kruger and Sossusvlei, and even skateboarders “shredding the patriarchy” in Morocco. There are only two weeks left to get your entries in, so don’t miss out.
On a nauseating note, trophy hunters in Botswana have killed two of the largest elephants on the continent. The outcry on our social media pages at this news was immense, and with good reason. That an elephant hunt of any kind – never mind of a large tusker – could be allowed in an important elephant-migration corridor boggles the mind. Read more in our first story.
Knowing the size of animal populations in protected areas and reserves is at the heart of effective conservation strategies. Those in the know predict that one day, wildlife will be counted by drones and AI. Read how researchers are laying down the foundations for this in our second story.
Happy indulging in Africa to you all!
Taryn van Jaarsveld — Editor
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Not all that long ago, we were just another species wandering the globe, subject to the same whims of weather and fortune as any other wild creature. So it is only natural that evidence of that time remains.
One such example is our relationship with honeyguides, which probably goes back to the time of Homo erectus. Certain members of this bird family will guide people to beehives so that they can feast on the spoils once the useful humans have broken open the hive. Seasoned travellers among you probably knew that, but did you know that in northern Tanzania, this guidance increases the Hazda tribe members’ bee-raiding success rate by 560%? The Boran people of East Africa and the Yao honey-hunters of Mozambique also have a unique call to attract the bird and begin the search.
The sad thing? As these traditional ways of life gradually disappear from human existence, the “guiding” instinct of the honeyguide will vanish entirely …
And now – for something completely different
Look away if your ideal safari is in the comfort zone because this is not your average vanilla-flavoured outing! Search for lowland gorillas, bongos, dwarf crocodiles, forest elephants and flocks of grey parrots in the dense forests of Congo in this one-of-a-kind, life-changing adventure.
OR
Enjoy a quick break (or safari add-on) at Africa’s adventure capital. Victoria Falls is massively famous for many excellent reasons. Repeat visitors or newbies will enjoy chunks of wall-to-wall action and swathes of chill time staring in awe at the smoke that thunders. This is a 3-day quick fix that we can massage to suit your ideal time in heaven.
WATCH: 72 seconds of safari heaven to encourage you to get our APP and start planning your safaris (01:12). Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
We are open for entries from 1 February 2022 to midnight on 30 April 2022. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.
The surgical removal of Africa’s large-tusked elephants by trophy hunters continues. Two massive bulls have been killed in the last few weeks in northern Botswana. The tusks of the two bulls each weigh more than 100 pounds and 90 pounds respectively – marking them as among Africa’s largest elephants.
The 100-pounder
The 100-pounder tusker is the largest elephant to be hunted in Botswana since 1996, according to contributors on AfricaHunting.com. The professional hunter involved is Leon Kachelhoffer and the elephant was hunted in the area known as NG13 (see map below). The location of the hunt is significant – refer to the closing discussion below.
Editorial note: We contacted Leon Kachelhoffer with the following request: “In the interests of transparency and accurate reporting, could you answer a few questions? We would like to clarify the nationality of your client, the total amount paid by the client and how that amount is distributed to the various suppliers and communities.” He responded by advising us that he is “a bit busy at the moment”. We will update this post if he does come through with the requested information. FURTHER UPDATE: Our follow up report is worth reading.
The 100-pounder tusker recently hunted in NG13, northern Botswana. Faces have been obscured for legal reasons – in accordance with privacy and defamation laws.The hunted elephant’s tusks weighed 201.3 pounds combined. Faces have been obscured for legal reasons – in accordance with privacy and defamation laws.
The 90-pounder
The 90-pounder (estimate provided by AfricaHunting.com) was recently hunted by Johan Calitz Safaris, also in northern Botswana. At this stage, we have no further information about this elephant.
90-pounder elephant hunted recently in northern Botswana. Faces have been obscured for legal reasons – in accordance with privacy and defamation laws.
The big picture
Botswana hosts the largest fluctuating elephant population in the world, largely because of historically sound conservation practices and a dominant photographic tourism industry. Elephants migrate seasonally across much of southern Africa (particularly in the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area – KAZA), with Botswana and Zimbabwe hosting the largest fluctuating populations. These elephant migrations are increasingly obstructed by human settlement, farms, mining, major roads, fences and other man-made obstacles – forcing free-roaming elephants into reduced areas. ‘Fear zones’, where elephants are persecuted by farmers and/or trophy hunters, also dictate elephant movements and stress levels. Read this research for more information about the impact of trophy hunting on elephant movements.
Human-elephant conflict occurs in areas where humans and elephants compete for land and water – and many rural human lives and livelihoods are lost in the process. This is a major concern and focus area for African governments, and the Botswana government is no exception. Ecosystems, where elephants congregate in increasing numbers near water during the dry winter months because of the above pressures, are also suffering as elephants denude these areas of tree cover.
Comment from our CEO Simon Espley:
“The 100-pounder hunt took place in NG13 – which is in the elephant migration corridor that KAZA hopes will help reduce human-elephant conflict. Angola and Zambia have large tracts of suitable elephant habitat and the KAZA strategy is to ensure that wildlife migration corridors remain free of obstacles and fear zones – so that elephants can again move freely between the KAZA countries and place less pressure on Botswana’s people and ecosystems. The location of this hunt pegs NG13 as a ‘fear zone’ (see research link above) for elephants – resulting in this particular hunt being damaging to Botswana’s wish to reduce human-elephant conflict and so improve the lives of its people.
The surgical removal of Africa’s remaining large-tusked elephants by trophy hunters will not solve any human-elephant conflict or habitat issues. The volume of elephants hunted is not sufficient to reduce elephant populations. Instead, the likely result of the selection of large-tusked elephants as trophies will be to hasten the disappearance of tuskers from the African landscape.”
Spotting animals is easier from a helicopter, but more expensive.
Counting wild animals can be a complicated process, particularly when estimating populations in some of Africa’s massive protected wild areas. Yet policymakers and conservationists need to make the best possible decisions regarding the programmes put in place to conserve certain species, especially where limited budgets are available.
Consistent analysis is vital to monitoring population trends over the years and proactively identifying potential threats and problems, rather than attempting to rectify population declines after the fact. Now scientists working with Save the Elephants and Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) have shown how technology can be used to make aerial population surveys more accurate.
A plane flies over a herd of elephants in Tsavo National Park during an aerial count
Typically, aerial wildlife counts are considered a more accurate method for counting animals, particularly in open spaces and where larger animal species are concerned. The standard method is to fly systematic reconnaissance flights over transects or along a survey line, with a ‘rear-seat-observer’ counting the number of animals within the transect or within a specific distance of the line. These numbers are used as sample units, and the population is extrapolated from there using various statistical methods. The researchers compared this method to a newly-devised ‘oblique-camera-count’ over Tsavo National Park. They concluded that human counters missed approximately 14% of the elephants, 60% of the giraffe, 48% of the zebra and 66% of the larger antelope. This, in turn, suggests that aerial counts have resulted in significantly undercounted wildlife populations.
Elephants from the air. This is the first study where continuous oblique imagery was acquired over complex terrestrial environments in Africa
This is not as a result of any negligence or lack of expertise on the part of the counters – animals can be hidden under dense vegetation, or cryptically coloured. Safety concerns mean that the plane has to maintain a specific altitude and speed, so counters only have a maximum of 7 seconds to count a particular area. Added to that is the inevitable variability as a result of aircraft type, ground speed, altitude, sample strip width and observer fatigue and the fact that using a helicopter to allow for more thorough counting is prohibitively expensive.
While these limitations had long been recognised, this is the first study of its kind where continuous oblique imagery (more suited to areas where animals might be resting under trees than imagery taken from directly overhead) was acquired over the complex terrestrial environments in Africa. Tsavo was chosen because wildlife counts had been planned for that period but it also presented challenges due to high ambient temperatures, strong winds and turbulence. The cameras were mounted to mimic the viewing perspective of the human counters. The images were later analysed by a team of interpreters who methodically worked through and enlarged thousands of images to identify and count animals.
At this stage, the authors of the study acknowledge that this process of image interpretation is labour intensive, as the interpreters went through over 200 images a day for nine months. Thus, they explain that this is just the starting point in the move towards more automated counting by machine learning where, at the very least, a software program can flag the potential presence of an animal. As technology improves, so will the ability to conduct aerial counts more accurately and cost-effectively.
These nine oryx are almost invisible in shadow conditions
As Save the Elephants has previously explained in an annual report, ever-changing technology has enormous implications for the conservation sphere. From specialised recognition software, scientists have already developed algorithms that recognise individual zebras and leopards. This information can only serve those tasked with protecting wilderness areas and the animals that call them home. Says Frank Pope, CEO of Save the Elephants: “Counting wildlife is critical for management but is expensive and surprisingly hard. Modern cameras mounted on aircraft can greatly improve accuracy, but counting the wildlife in the hundreds of thousands of images that result is impractical. Artificial intelligence holds the key to processing the images, and making these surveys cheaper as well as more precise. One day wildlife will be counted by drones and AI – what we’re doing is laying the foundations for that future.”
These animals would not be detected had the cameras been mounted vertically
So we all SURVIVED one overpaid Hollywood narcissist (OHN) bitch-slapping another OHN on stage while a coterie of OHN’s gawked and then applauded. Moving on swiftly.
The Botswana government is trying to force-feed its good people a very bitter lemon. Our third story below is a classic case of political manoeuvring at the cost of the environment and an already established economy. That the Batswana need FAR MORE direct involvement in the tourism industry is not in doubt – that has to happen. But killing the goose that lays the golden eggs is short-sighted and naive. Time will reveal the shady dealings and identity of the predetermined beneficiaries. Walks away shaking his head …
The mornings have turned crisp and the leaves are yellowing here in a fresh Autumn Johannesburg. To stay warm, I’m turning my attention to toastier destinations. This week we explore the wonders of a mobile glamping safari in Moremi Game Reserve – an AG expedition that’s not to be missed. Check out our second story.
The Week 9 entrants to Photographer of the Year have also been out and about in the African sun – and they’ve brought back incredible, award-worthy images. This week’s gallery is filled with rare species, otherworldly treescapes, and some interesting creatures in some, ahem, passionate positions. Check these out below.
Our third story focuses on Botswana’s dubious call for tenders for 8 new lodges in Chobe NP. We’re also delving into the stark reality of South Africa’s big-cat farming industry. Illegal tiger and lion breeding is still rampant in the country, despite Barbara Creecy announcing plans for a complete ban on the captive-lion industry. See how this illegal trade threatens wild populations of these animals across the world in our final story below.
Happy indulging in Africa to you all!
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
It is no secret that our relationship with alcohol goes back a very long way. As far back as there have been people, they have been finding new and inventive ways to ferment things. In many countries, indulgence in the Bacchanalian delights has translated into an enormous public health concern.
But did you know that this love of liquor may well link to our evolutionary history? The theory is (appropriately) called the “drunken monkey” hypothesis and suggests that the attraction has its roots in early dietary requirements. Scientists recently proved that spider monkeys in Panama prefer fruits with a higher ethanol content – quite possibly because they can metabolize the alcohol and harness additional calories. So, in theory, people have a penchant for booze because our early, fruit-eating ancestors derived nutritional rewards from it. Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on your perspective), we are no longer limited to the 2% alcohol content of slightly “off” fruit, hence people making monkeys of themselves …
Come get it while it’s still warm!
A last-minute cancellation means that we can offer a VERY SPECIAL price for this dream glamping safari in late May. Six days in intoxicating Khwai and Moremi for US$2,380 per person is a steal (5 places available). There is also one seat left for a late April departure for US$2,215. Fully-catered mobile safaris that will reboot your life. For further info also refer to our story above.
And, for the pursuit of culinary delights and Big 5 safari heaven, there is this: Bush & beach, Pinotage to predators – South Africa – 12 days
WATCH: South Africa’s vervet monkeys survive in urban spaces (03:31). Click here to watch
The decision by the Botswana government to call for tenders for the development of eight lodges of 75 beds each on the Chobe Riverfront within Chobe National Park (CNP) has raised concerns amongst stakeholders and environmentalists.
This process seems to be going ahead, despite stipulations in the current gazetted CNP management plans that no new lodge developments should take place within the park. Antagonists are questioning the Botswana government’s commitment to wildlife conservation and raise concerns that this tender process is being fast-tracked via allegedly illegal and unconstitutional means.
The government also appears to have disregarded existing USAID-funded 2020 CNP Management Plan Review recommendations that no further lodges be developed within the national park. In this regard, the recently edited draft CNP Management Plan (which has not yet been gazetted) goes against advice by consultants as evidenced by the existing management plan.
The country’s Ministry of Environment, Natural Resources Conservation and Tourism recently invited citizen-owned companies and consortiums to submit ‘expressions of interest’ to lease eight lodge sites within an area on the Chobe Riverfront , with little notice provided and reportedly without following due process – threatening the survival of Chobe National Park. The eight lodge sites measure three hectares each along the Chobe River and are spaced two kilometres apart. Tender processes for three additional lodge sites (totalling 11) proposed in the updated draft management plan – in the Madamboza and Ngwezumba Medium Intensity Use zones – have not yet been initiated.
The Ministry’s invitation sent earlier this year for Expressions of Interest (EOI) called for parties to submit ‘Management Plans’ related to the sites in question – for the development and operation of tourism sites lease periods of fifty years. Applicants were expected to attend a compulsory site visit to proposed sites on 3 March of this year, and EOI applications were due on 21 March. No affected entities or stakeholders were given the opportunity to consult and discuss the proposed development of lodges before the EOI invitation was published.
Various stakeholders, including public and private corporates, SMMEs, owner-operated establishments, NGOs and private citizens (under the name Concerned Stakeholders Chobe District) filed a formal opposition to these development plans in a Letter of Objection on 7 March. Various concerns were raised by the parties, stating that the “clandestine” manner in which government rushed the tender process raises suspicions of illegal and perhaps even unconstitutional conduct by the Ministry.
“The rushed time frame offered on that brief public notification to participate in the EOI was unrealistic and provides ample speculation to the legality and inclusiveness of the process,” states the Letter of Objection. “It begs the question, had select participants already been established/offered the chance to tender before the all-too-brief public notice was made?”
Stakeholders opposing the new Chobe NP lodge sites fear overdevelopment could threaten the delicate Chobe River ecosystem and existing tourism operations.
Botswana’s government appears to be fast-tracking the initial allocation of land in order to speed up the allocation of the sites and allocation of land to empower Batswana. This was related during a session of Parliament at the end of March by the Minister of Environment, Natural Resources Conservation and Tourism, Philda Kereng, who stated that the management plan had been updated with technical advice and in fact showed that up to 11 lodge developments could be established on the Chobe Riverfront. “The sites that could be built there are 11 [sic] but we are going for eight because we don’t want high traffic there,” she said. Furthermore, Kereng stated that bid winners would conduct EIAs and then incorporate these into their specific plans for the sites.
This is a complete about-turn by the government, which in recent years (under different administration) rejected proposals for development within the CNP Riverfront, including for the establishment of an elephant orphan sanctuary, the construction of a communications tower by Botswana’s telecommunications regulator and a lodge proposed by the Botswana Defence Force (BDF) Welfare Trust Fund. At the time, the Department of Environmental Affairs stated no further development of lodges within the CNP should be considered as the environmental and long-term economic impacts of such developments far outweigh any perceived short-term economic benefits. In the 2017 rejection of the BDF’s proposed lodge, the Department stated the increase in the carrying capacity of the area created by one new lodge on the Chobe Riverfront would “significantly put pressure on the environment, the natural resources and the Chobe River front [sic] area.” Only five years later, the government is pushing for the development of eight lodges in this area.
In a further twist, consultants to the USAID-funded 2020 CNP Management Plan Review noted with concern that updated versions of the Management Plans in question appear to have been altered after they signed off on their approvals.
Consultant Lin Cassidy requested that the names of the USAID-funded team be removed from the latest approved plans, stating “we have learned that versions of [these] management plans…. that we submitted to the Department of Wildlife and National Parks (DWNP) and which were accepted and approved by DWNP, may have been changed since our submission and completion of our contract.”
The Hospitality and Tourism Association of Botswana (HATAB) has added its voice to those in opposition to the developments, stating these will have a “very significant impact” on the Chobe Riverfront by increasing congestion and environmental pollution, restricting animal movement and “placing increased pressure on already threatened species such as the Chobe bushbuck” – especially during the lodge construction process. Once lodges are up and running, the maximum 75 beds for each facility would potentially mean 600 more people in the park at peak times – in addition to support staff for each lodge.
While the stakeholders are not in opposition to economic upliftment and the creation of employment opportunities, there are major concerns that the proposed developments will threaten the environmental wellbeing of the national park, and that the tender process has been unconstitutional. The proposed developments could contribute to human-wildlife conflict, threatening animal populations that are already contending with encroaching agricultural developments and human settlements. The new lodges will result in the loss of 8km of wildlife corridors and up to 8km of wildlife-viewing roads within an already limited road network. “The impact of increasing an already high-traffic volume by an estimated minimum of 50 game viewing vehicles will be devastating to the quality of the tourist experience and will certainly change wildlife behaviour and distribution,” states the Letter of Objection. “The myriad environmental impacts seem not to have been considered at all.”
The letter raises concerns that expansion of these lodge sites, which are bounded by the main road to the south and annually flooded plains to the north, can only occur laterally east and west, consuming more river frontage and exacerbating the degradation of the ecosystem.
Further objections to the tender process have been raised by young tourism entrepreneurs, who say the specifications, which require companies to own existing tourism licences, favour established businesses and do not support the creation of opportunities for the youth of Botswana, reports Mmegi Online.
“Our interpretation is that only companies that are operational and own a tourism-related business are favoured,” reads a complaint by Eco Tours director, Othusitse Ranko. “It is our considered view that the above is discriminating to individuals and companies, especially the youth who haven’t had an opportunity before to own and operate tourism-related facilities and who by default won’t have the required tourism licence.”
Stakeholders opposing the developments are in agreement that the oversaturation of the market by businesses is unsustainable and could lead to all-round collapse – of both the delicate Chobe River ecosystem and of existing tourism operations within CNP. “The jewel of Botswana requires protection,” read the objection by HATAB, “and thus we encourage our government, developmental and environmental partners to protect our parks for the benefit of our posterity.”
Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
We are open for entries from 1 February 2022 to midnight on 30 April 2022. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.
If the thought of glamping in Botswana’s Big 5 wilderness appeals to your sense of freedom and adventure, you may be ticking a magical Moremi safari off your bucket list before you know it. Moremi Game Reserve is in the renowned Okavango Delta. We are offering an extraordinary fully-catered mobile safari expedition to Moremi with a touch of pampering and minimal effort on your part – only five spots are open in our upcoming May expedition. You could soon find yourself gliding through the waters of the Okavango on a mokoro, indulging in the local knowledge of an expert guide who’ll leave no stone unturned to unlock Moremi’s secrets, and falling asleep to the sounds of lion roars and hyena cackles piercing the darkness. Why settle for five stars when you can have five million?
Read more about this incredibly priced special offerdeparting in May this year. This is a rare opportunity to experience this epic adventure at an exceptional price.
Big 5 sightings abound in Moremi
No-fuss mobile camping adventure
This experience is designed for adventurers longing to explore Botswana’s most pristine and wild areas – from Moremi’s Xaxanaka and 3rd Bridge areas to magnificent Khwai and the eastern regions of the Okavango Delta – without the hassle. A hospitality team takes care of all the practicalities, from setting up and breaking camp in Meru-style tents at every destination, cooking three delicious meals a day over an open fire and expert guiding while exploring the wilderness. The accommodation in spacious mobile canvas tents includes beds with linen and fleece blankets, en-suite bucket showers, comfortable bush toilets, open kitchen, mess area, and campfire hearth.
Mobile camps are set up for guests every night, and include fireside comfort, Meru-style tents with comfortable beds, full catering by expedition chefs, en-suite bathrooms, and prime-time stargazing
In between various day-time adventures and game drives, safari-goers can float along the waters of the Delta on a mokoro, which provides the opportunity to silently approach unsuspecting wildlife. Witnessing an elephant splashing about in the water, sneaking up on otters or viewing hippos and crocodiles at eye level is a profound experience, both hypnotic and exhilarating.
A mokoro safari offers a fascinating look into the Okavango Delta’s ecosystems
After mornings and afternoons spent ambling through the bushveld in the true spirit of African adventure, guests arrive back at camp for sundowners around the fire (don’t wander too far – lest you stumble upon a curious lion or hyena). Evenings are spent stargazing while staying warm around the campfire as dinner is prepared by hosts.
Experience Moremi’s wilderness from a mokoro, on your own personal game drive, or even on foot
Moremi’s pristine wilderness
The fascinating habitats of the Okavango Delta make for a safari paradise. Exploring this with your group’s safari vehicle and local guide with in-depth knowledge of the area means the opportunity to come face to face with the Big 5, hyena, wild dog, cheetah, and the more scarce but equally desirable creatures such as aardwolf and pangolin (which do require a dash of good luck). There is a great deal of freedom when on safari in this area – night drives, walking safaris, and even off-roading are allowed. Birding is prolific, with over 400 species recorded, including Pel’s fishing owl, coppery-tailed coucal and iconic colonies of seasonal carmine bee-eaters.
Listen through the tent canvas for the roaring of lions
Unwind through the rhythm of the wild
When AG CEO Simon Espley returned from this bucket-list adventure, his time on this bushveld escape had him returning infinitely nourished. “There’s a rhythm to this mobile safari that encourages you to truly, seriously unwind,” he says. “Time takes on a different meaning, perhaps because you have more of it. Your lullabies are sung by hyenas, lions, leopards, hippos, nightjars and owls. You’ll be pampered, bush-style, from dawn to dusk. But, you’ll also recharge your batteries and reconnect with the real you.”
Enjoy relaxing fireside in the mobile camp, which is set up by the hospitality team
Want to join this epic safari?Guests can book an entire mobile expedition for family and friends or join an existing expedition. Read more or book here.
South African farmers illegally breed tigers and other big cats for sale into the luxury goods and traditional medicine markets. This illegal tiger trade and associated big cat farming threatens the wild populations of these animals across the world, as illegal networks launder wild-poached and captive-bred animals and their body parts.
This and other revelations are contained in a new report compiled by the South African office of animal-welfare organisation FOUR PAWS. Note that in mid-2021,South Africa’s Minister of the Department of Forestry, Fisheries and Environment (DFFE), Barbara Creecy, announced plans for a complete ban on the controversial captive-lion breeding industry – but despite that, the industry remains firmly in place.
The global captive tiger population is three times the size of the remaining wild population
Other big cats bred and trophy hunted in South Africa for export include lions, leopards and jaguars. The report focuses on the captive-tiger industry in South Africa, but most issues raised also impact the other big cat species.
This commercial trade in tiger parts flouts agreements set out by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) that state “tigers should not be bred for trade in their parts and derivatives.” Report author Kieran Harkin says: “It is clear that South Africa is overtly allowing tigers and other big cats to be intensively bred for commercial trade in their body parts. This is unacceptable as the farming of tigers for commercial trade has detrimental effects on wild tiger populations. South Africa is playing a significant role in contributing to the decline of a species that is non-native to Africa. They need to shut down this industry to help reverse the decline of all big cats and not just the tiger.”
“The lack of effective regulations for species like tigers combined with the existence of a legal captive-lion industry and bone trade, has allowed a legal industry to flourish, whilst also acting as a conduit for an illegal trade,” says Fiona Miles, Director of FOUR PAWS in South Africa.
The report ultimately calls for South Africa to end its big-cat industry and reverse its role as an exporter of big cats and their parts. This would give the relevant enforcement authorities a better chance to tackle the illegal trade within and from South Africa.
A lack of effective regulations or minimum conditions for species like tigers and lions has allowed a legal industry to flourish
Notable extractions from the report
Worldwide, there are an estimated three times as many tigers in captivity (+/- 12,600) as there are in the wild (4,400).
The hunting and killing of tigers is permitted in all nine South African provinces.
The regulations relating to the keeping, breeding, killing, and trading of tigers are so different between the nine South African provinces as to make effective management and record-keeping impossible.
Most live tigers exported went to Vietnam, China and Bangladesh.
The exact number of captive tigers in South Africa is not known. Requests to the provincial authorities for accurate tiger statistics were either ignored, replied to in part or confusing/inaccurate. Similarly, the volume of live tigers and tiger parts traded is unknown.
A study of the CITES Trade Database reveals that 359 live tigers and 93 tiger ‘trophies’ were exported from South Africa between 2011 and 2020. In addition, 34 items exported were labelled as code ‘T’ (for commercial purposes) – a direct contravention of CITES Decision 14.69.
There are no known tiger zoos or captive breeding facilities that introduce tigers into the wild or maintain studbooks to maintain genetic diversity. This is also a contravention of Cites Decision 14.69, which stipulates that the breeding of captive tigers is restricted to a ‘level supportive only to wild tigers.’
CITES records in Egypt indicate that 15 live tigers were imported from South Africa, yet South African records indicate only 4 live tigers exported to Egypt. These discrepancies in CITES records are commonplace and ensure that proper analysis of the scale and nature of trade in wild species and their parts is impossible.
Lions: South Africa exported 27,418 lions and lion parts between 2011 and 2020 – the majority of which were captive-bred.
Leopards: South Africa exported 61 live leopards (of which 48 were captive-bred), 807 leopard ‘trophies’ and 374 skulls during 2011 and 2020.
Big cats bred in South Africa and exported live are facilitating the growth of big cat breeding operations throughout the world.
Recommendations from the report on the lion and tiger trade
As the legal industry has made the tiger trade and trafficking of lion parts easier, the report makes the following recommendations to minimise the negative effects of the intensive tiger- and lion- breeding industry:
South Africa should end the commercial breeding of all big cats and the export and commercial trade in live animals and parts.
A clause should be introduced whereby current owners can keep their living animals but must stop all breeding and allow the animals to see out their lives naturally – with all welfare needs met.
Detection and law enforcement efforts around smuggling should be increased at South Africa’s entry and exit points.
Awareness around the modus operandi of wildlife trafficking syndicates should be increased amongst key stakeholders.
The majority of the 27,418 exported lions and lion parts from South Africa between 2011 and 2020 were captive-bred
Conclusion
South Africa has become a haven for the illicit big-cat breeding industry. It is clear from this report that nobody knows how many big cats are being kept in South Africa or the volume and nature of illegal and legal trade – least of all the relevant authorities required by law to control the industry and maintain accurate records. The burgeoning trade encourages illegal operations and contributes to the demise of wild big-cat populations. Neither international nor South African authorities effectively control the lion or tiger trade, or reign in the burgeoning illicit trade.
The great continent is well and truly open for travel, with restrictions easing up around borders every week. I’m bursting with bliss to see our AG community buzzing with trip plans – plotting voyages to the shores of Lake Kariba, prepping for mountain gorilla treks in Uganda and lacing up boots for walking safaris in Greater Kruger. Our forum is alive with requests for travel and tipping advice, and teamAG’s safari experts are aglow with ideas and inspiration.
Our first story below is a handy guide on the rare and tasty craft beers our travellers can order on their African journeys. We’ve skipped the mass-produced regulars in favour of the special flavours you’ll find nowhere else in the world. I’m sure many of you will soon be toasting your safaris along the Okavango River or watching the sun go down over the Namib Desert with a cold one in hand.
We’re also celebrating the continent’s most underestimated carnivores – daring and endearing jackals. Read our second story to see why they are a favourite for us.
There is only one month left to get your entries in for Photographer of the Year. The extraordinary pics keep rolling in: see our third story to see which images made the cut this week.
Happy indulging in Africa to you all!
Taryn van Jaarsveld — Editor
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Once a year, on April Fool’s Day, a popular social media site shares a crudely manipulated image of wildlife doing something crazy. A few years ago, their chosen joke was a picture of an elephant carrying a lion cub. The caption explained that the mother lioness was tired, and the elephant, in the spirit of peace and love, opted to help her out. The picture went viral, with thousands of comments about how we could learn a thing or two from animals—a perfect example of how people are at their most gullible when they want to believe. And people want to believe that wildlife behaves like children’s stories.
On that, here’s an extraordinary fact that sounds a lot like a hoax (but isn’t). Did you know that there is an elephant in captivity in Korea believed to be capable of mimicking human speech? Koshik can “say” five words in Korean: “hello”, “sit”, “lie down”, “no” and “good”. We are still a long way from knowing everything about elephants’ capabilities. (But we do know they don’t go around helping lion cubs across the road…)
WATCH:Anatomy of a bribe. A riveting exposé by Al Jazeera’s Investigative Unit into corruption in the Namibian fishing industry. This is a story of how foreign companies plunder Africa’s natural resources. (51:11). Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
We are open for entries from 1 February 2022 to midnight on 30 April 2022. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.
What better way to celebrate a successful safari than to crack open a cold one at the end of a long hot day, take that first refreshing sip and stare at the majesty of Africa around you? For almost as long as there have been people, they have been brewing beer. Across cultures and continents, the bacchanalian discovery of the delicious and intoxicating product of fermented cereals became ingrained in everyday life.
Like the rest of the world, Africa has a long-standing and merry history of brewing beer – both commercially and traditionally. Preparing (and consuming) indigenous beers is still a part of life, especially in rural areas and during customary celebrations. For many tribes, the rituals involved vary depending on specific events and require different vessels and formalities for each. Umqombothi, chibuku, changa’aa, khadi, hydromel… Africa is awash with distinctive traditional brews – some of which are more meal than drink!
While beer enthusiasts may protest in horror, the truth is that the basic beer recipe is not a complex one: some malted barley here, a handful of hops there, plenty of water and enough yeast to get the party started. However, brewers in Africa rely upon sorghum and maize and flavour the product with everything from fruits and flowers to roots and honey. These local techniques have been gradually incorporated in commercial, craft and boutique brewing practices to create flavours unique to each country.
Have a look at our list of unusual favourites below to guide your decision.
Devil’s Peak Beer Company’s zero-alcohol Hero Original; the Okavango Craft Brewery’s Delta Lager; The Big Five Brewery’s Temstout; Namib Dunes Craft Brewery’s Irish Red; Tiemann Beer’s Wild Dog Shempa Ale; and Twiga Brewery’s Blonde Ale
1. ‘Delta Lager’ from the Okavango Craft Brewery, Botswana
The Okavango Craft Brewery sources their millet from the small-scale farmers around the Okavango Delta – at premium prices. In partnership with the local NGO Ecoexist, the aim is to reward local communities for their efforts to coexist with elephants and stimulate local economies while producing the perfect quality beer to toast your safari in the Delta. Be sure to order one when on your next adventure in this iconic, pristine wetland system.
2. Wild Dog Shempa Ale from Tiemann Beer, Zambia
From the vats of Zambia’s first craft beer producers, the Wild Dog range from Tiemann Beer has taken the country by storm. Zambia is famous for its walking safaris, and the light, flavourful ale is the perfect end-of-day beverage to gulp down while soaking tired feet in the Luangwa River. When next you head to the vast Zambian wilderness playground in search of an authentic, unfussy safari experience on foot, be sure to order a Shempa Ale.
3. Irish Red from Namib Dunes Craft Brewery, Namibia
Beer is to desert as oxpecker is to buffalo: the perfect pair. Beer brewing is a source of national pride in Namibia, and in keeping with this proud tradition, Namib Dunes Craft Brewery has produced some of the best beers for watching the sun go down over the red dunes of the Namib Desert.
4. Twiga Blonde Ale from Twiga Brewery, Tanzania
Operating from the green slopes of Mount Meru in Arusha, Twiga Brewery is a small, independent operation offering hand-crafted beverages of the highest international standard and craftsmanship. As the wildebeest and zebra gallop across the savannah during the Great Migration, take a moment to celebrate a day of extraordinary sightings while sipping on the Twiga Blonde Ale.
Crack open a cold one while watching the Great Migration; refresh while overlooking the Namib Desert; or sip on an ale at the edge of the Luangwa River
5. Temstout from The Big Five Breweries, Kenya
From one of the top breweries in Kenya, The Big Five Breweries, this full-bodied beer carries a hint of dark chocolate and, of course, a strong coffee flavour from a country that produced some of the best coffee in the world. Whether heading to the magical Maasai Mara, or to spot tuskers in Tsavo or Amboseli National Parks be sure to keep an eye out for this beer on the menu.
6. Hero Original from Devil’s Peak Beer Company, South Africa
So, what should your order be? Well, for a start, forgo the more commercial brands and take a chance on something more distinctively African.
Want to sample these tasty beers on safari? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.
A lion’s roar or hyena’s whoop are considered “iconic”. But the song of the jackal is one of the wild’s most hauntingly beautiful sounds, easily on par with spine-tingling wolf howls in other parts of the world. As dusk descends, the haunting lupine melody of the continent’s most underestimated carnivore cuts through the air and raises goosebumps on the skin.
The basics
Nearly anyone on safari is likely to encounter a jackal at some point, often around a lion kill and very seldom at the centre of attention. They are expert opportunists and masterful lurkers with iron-clad stomachs capable of handling everything from rotten carcasses to berries and even lion faeces. As underappreciated species go, jackals are very close to the top of the African safari list. Without the rarity factor, they are generally overlooked or dismissed. This is unfortunate as they are fascinating, intelligent, social and, on occasion, clownish creatures. Besides, any animal that dares to snatch the scraps out from beneath a hungry lion’s nose should be entitled to automatic respect. They are also skilful hunters, particularly the black-backed variety.
Not to be confused with foxes (of which there are several species in Africa, learn more about them here), jackals are taller and stockier than the various members of the Vulpes genus, with longer, more obviously wolf-like facial features. There are two species in Africa – the black-backed and side-striped jackal. Another species, the golden jackal, inhabits parts of southern Europe and Asia. As the name indicates, the black-backed jackal can be distinguished by the saddle of black (with white patterns) that runs across the centre of the back, while the stripe of the side-stripped jackal is often indistinct.
A black-backed jackal on the prowl near Kasane Forest, Botswana
The side-striped has the more extensive range of the two species and is found throughout much of sub-Saharan Africa. They are notably absent in the more arid areas of the southwestern part of Southern Africa, where black-backed jackals reign throughout most of South Africa, Botswana and Namibia. Where the two species do overlap (as they do across much of East Africa), the black-backed jackal seems to dominate, despite being the smaller of the two. This has often been connected to the observation that black-backed jackals appear to hunt more frequently (and hunt bigger prey) than their side-striped cousins. However, whether this is true across all populations and habitat types has yet to be confirmed.
These differences aside, there are several species similarities. Both jackals are omnivorous, with plant matter accounting for over 50% of their diet in some places. They are also both monogamous and territorial.
A side-striped jackal spotted in the Okavango Delta
Quick facts
Black-Backed Jackal
Side-Striped Jackal
Mass
6-13kg
6.5-14kg
Shoulder height
38-48cm
35-50cm
Social Structure
Monogamous, small family groups
Monogamous, small family groups
Gestation
Just over two months
Just over two months
Number of pups
One to nine pups
Three to six pups
The lifelong couple
As they are monogamous, there is minimal sexual dimorphism between male and female jackals. The bond between mated pairs is profound and may last for several years – usually the duration of their lifespan. The couples are almost inseparable and cooperate in virtually every aspect of their joint lives. This includes foraging and, on occasion, hunting cooperatively to bring down larger prey. In East Africa, jackals are renowned for a tendency to target Thomson’s gazelle fawns. One member of the duo (or small family) will fend off the spirited defence of the mother while the other lunges for the fawn. There is even anecdotal evidence of jackals using a “fascination display” to lure prey or distract larger predators from their meals. They lie down and squirm comically, attracting curious prey close enough to grab or infuriating a predator to the point that it temporarily forsakes its kill, only for the jackal to leap up and snatch a bite.
The breeding pair will also join forces to defend territories against other jackals, and observational research shows that the death of one partner has dire consequences for the survivor, usually involving the loss of territory and subsequent displacement. Territorial boundaries are ignored when a large carcass is present, and not even the pair’s combined efforts are sufficient to deter trespassers.
A territorial disagreement
Playing happy families
A successful couple will raise several litters of puppies throughout their lives, some of which will stay on to help their parents with the subsequent litter before dispersing. The pups are born in a den, which is usually an abandoned aardvark or warthog tunnel, but the female may excavate the tunnel herself. She remains with the helpless pups for up to three weeks or longer until they emerge above ground on wobbly legs. During this time, the male and any older offspring will forage for her and regurgitate food upon their return. As the pups grow and begin to explore, she will join forces with the rest of her family to provide for their voracious appetites. All family members will bravely defend the pups against predators several times their size, snapping and snarling at hyenas or dashing in front of lions to draw them away from the vulnerable puppies. Naturally, this means that having older offspring “helpers” has a direct bearing on pup survival, particularly for larger litters.
Jackal pups transform from fluffballs into competent predators within a few short months
The tiny pups rapidly transform from cuddly fluffballs to competent predators, and they are already able to hunt for themselves (albeit somewhat unsuccessfully at times) at six months old. They remain with their parents for another two months, after which most will disperse, but some will stay behind as helpers. Research shows that the dominance hierarchy between siblings, particularly pronounced in black-backed jackals, may well play a role in determining which individuals decide to stick around.
A wolf in jackal’s clothing
In 2015, the scientific community was rocked (well, relatively) by the revelation that Africa was, in fact, home to two jackal species, not three as previously believed. The third member – now known as the African wolf – had diverged from the Asian golden jackals well over a million years ago.
Not a jackal: the African wolf (Canis lupaster)
Later research revealed that it is a genetically admixed canid with both grey and Ethiopian wolf ancestors. The African wolf (Canis lupaster) looks and behaves exactly like a jackal, showing how classification based on morphology or behaviour alone can be distinctly deceptive.
Advancements in genetic analysis have contributed significantly to the reclassification of many supposedly related species across several prominent mammal families, including the canids. DNA analysis from several studies shows that both the black-backed and side-striped jackals are the basal members of the wolf-like clade. In other words, they diverged very early on and are genetically distinct from the other members like the wolf and coyote (and domestic dog). As such, the IUCN Canid Specialist Group recently recommended that their scientific genus be designated as Lupulella, rather than Canis. The recommended scientific name for the black-backed jackal is Lupulella mesomelas, while that of the side-striped jackal is Lupulella adusta.
Jackals and people
Since the jackal-headed Anubis (okay, so technically, he was an African wolf) first weighed the hearts of the dead, and possibly long before, jackals have played a role in the mythology of many different cultures. In many, they are the bad guy, a cunning trickster, or a sorcerer capable of shape-shifting. In Khoikhoi legends, many of the stories involve the jackal outwitting or betraying the lion. Some of these beliefs persist today, and jackal body parts and pelts are used in traditional medicine by tribes throughout Africa.
Today, however, their biggest threat comes from conflict with farmers, especially those with smaller livestock animals – as jackals will readily hunt lambs. For several centuries, jackals were seen as vermin, and various lethal methods were employed to rid the farms of their presence. Yet, as bigger wildlife species were gradually eradicated from farmlands throughout history, jackals remained, despite being killed in large numbers. Fortunately, today, educational programmes have begun to change attitudes towards the jackals and non-lethal (and more effective) techniques such as guard dogs are used to ensure livestock safety. Despite being persecuted for centuries, jackal numbers are believed to be stable and healthy populations persist across most of their natural range.
An opportunistic black-backed jackal taking a chance
Ultimate survivors
For the most part, the human brain is not particularly well designed to grasp the timescale of evolution. It’s a bit like understanding the size of the universe – immense but in a nonspecific way. Yet for aeons, nature has had time to play with different recipes for survival, rejecting failed attempts without mercy and casually throwing environmental curveballs into the mix. Over the years, these forces have shaped teeth, lengthened and fused tarsals and carpals, stretched out trunks, created opposable thumbs and designed wildlife perfectly adapted for their chosen environment and competitors.
Out of this melee, the continent’s two jackal species emerged relatively early on compared to the other dog family members. From then on, these clever little canids have proved repeatedly that they are the ultimate survivors of the African bushveld and should be appreciated as such.
Recently we published our thoughts on the 6 best places to see painted wolves (wild dogs). Of course, you may have suggestions on how to improve on this list – which are always welcome. But here’s the thing: On our Facebook page, every comment focussed on our choice of name for Lycaon pictus – some so AGGRESSIVE that we hid the comments. Not one person on Facebook responded to the advice provided in our story. Not one. Juxtapose that with the comments in our app – every comment was relevant to the topic at hand. This is why we built the app – for relevant, CONSTRUCTIVE discussions. Plus, of course, to find the best prices at Africa’s most authentic camps & lodges. And to make secure donations to conservation projects that make a difference at ground level.
I am so over how social media has become a cesspit of trolls, scams and manipulative algorithms. Moving on. Please GET OUR APP (there is also a desktop version) by scrolling to the prompts below.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Photographer of the Year is picking up steam! With every selection, it becomes harder to narrow down entries to a choice few. Don’t miss our epic Week 7 gallery below.
And if the entries are not enough to inspire longing for adventure, our story on Katavi National Park – Tanzania’s wildest secret – will. This guide to an electrifying safari nirvana, teeming with herds in the dry season, will have you packing your bags.
We’re moving with giants this week, and delving into the challenges of human-elephant conflict. In our third story below, read how beloved super tusker Tolstoy was saved last week after meeting the wrong end of a spear.
Majestic elephants conjure intense emotion in us. It’s no wonder Namibia’s controversial elephant auction has sparked debate. The first captured elephants have now entered the murky muddle of international wildlife trade. Our last editorial below, by conservationist Gail Thomson, is the most balanced view I have read on the matter to date, and is not to be missed.
Happy indulging in Africa to you all!
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Did you know that we share around 96% of our genome with chimpanzees? Here’s another fun fact – that number is almost meaningless unless you happen to have a relatively comprehensive understanding of the science of DNA. The number jumps around from 96% to 99% for a start, depending on which similarity is measured. Chromosomes, genes, proteins, gene expression, mutations – it all gets very complicated!
Yes, we share many of our genetic building blocks with our closest relatives. But roughly 35 million differences change everything! These differences created the characteristics that make us uniquely human: our permanently bipedal stance, hairless (mostly) bodies and extraordinary intelligence (and frightening capacity for evil). The point is that tiny changes matter. And on a related (ha) note, a reminder that you can download our app and seamlessly donate to 61 vetted conservation organisations. Just a thought…
The ultimate Maasai Mara safari for those wanting to push the boundaries of their photography – to achieve THAT image that everyone talks about. Award-winning photographer-guide + a specially modified vehicle for those low-angle shots + off-road driving permits = the perfect combo. Need we say more? August 2022 – 2 places left.
Budget safari – South Luangwa, Zambia. This well-priced safari offers exceptional guiding and an authentic bush camp safari for travellers on a modest budget. Luangwa Valley is the birthplace of walking safaris and enjoys one of Africa’s highest leopard densities.
WATCH: Baby elephants rescued from mud in Mana Pools. Footage from two years ago that tugs at the heart-strings (02:45). Click here to watch
Super tusker Tolstoy of Amboseli National Park in Kenya is a living natural wonder, carrying some of the largest tusks on the planet. So when the rangers from Big Life Foundation, who preserve the wildlife and habitats of the Amboseli-Tsavo-Kilimanjaro ecosystem, don’t see Tolstoy for a while – they go looking.
When Tolstoy’s absence was noticed last week, the rangers set out to search beyond their regular patrol areas. Eventually, they found Tolstoy resting under a tree. All appeared well, until the giant took a step. It was evident that Tolstoy was struggling to walk. After getting closer to get a better view, the rangers could identify the problem: Tolstoy had a puncture wound in the joint on his front right leg.
A wound like this was no accident. Tolstoy is known for raiding crops. He usually returns unscathed from his night-time forays into farmland but, when he is caught in the act of crop-raiding, farmers will do whatever they can to defend their fields. In this case, Tolstoy was speared in the leg. Crop-raiding by elephants can cost a farmer their entire season’s income in one night, and despite Tolstoy being one of Africa’s last remaining ‘super tuskers’, that doesn’t stop farmers from protecting their livelihoods. It is also not the first time this has happened. Tolstoy was treated for three spear wounds in 2018 – injuries that were also received during crop-raiding.
The joint Kenya Wildlife Service/David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust mobile veterinary unit was quick to respond, but the decision to treat Tolstoy was not made immediately. Darting an animal of his size, particularly with a wound in a sensitive joint, is extremely risky because the elephant may not be able to stand after treatment. The decision was made to wait 24 hours and see if his condition improved.
Tolstoy was darted and quickly treated by the vet team. After receiving a jab to wake up, he retreated to rest in the shade.
The rangers stayed by his side through the waiting period, spending the entire night out with him. However, the wound showed no sign of improvement. The decision was then made to dart him – which was done quickly and professionally. His wound was thoroughly cleaned and treated, and Tolstoy was given antibiotics and painkillers before receiving a jab to wake him up.
With great effort, Tolstoy finally stood and stared back at the treatment team, before retreating into the shade. For now, his prognosis looks good. But he is unfortunately not yet in the clear and Big Life’s rangers will continue to monitor him as his wound heals and he walks the road to recovery. The rangers will also continue to spend their nights out in the farms around Amboseli and Tsavo National Parks, keeping elephants safe and helping farmers to protect their crops – in the hopes of preventing similar occurrences in the future.
Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
We are open for entries from 1 February 2022 to midnight on 30 April 2022. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.
Note from our CEO Simon Espley: ‘This is an emotional topic for most of us. The author of this opinion editorial on Namibia’s elephant auction succinctly differentiates between the science and the ethical issues at play and between fact and speculation. This is a tough read for those of us who believe that there can be no justification for capturing wild elephants and subjecting them to incredible hardships and early death in zoos and other forms of prison. The lucky ones will be moved to large protected areas in Africa, but many will disappear through CITES loopholes into the fog of the wildlife trading industry. That said, it is important to read the facts so that our opinions are informed, and to recognise that solutions have to be found in instances where elephants and humans clash for space and water.’
Namibia’s decision to auction 170 elephants from human-elephant conflict hotspots has to date resulted in the capture and translocation of 37 wild elephants from the Kamanjab and Omatjete areas. Both captures for the elephant auction involved family groups of elephants, with one group translocated to a private reserve in Namibia run by N/a’an ku sê and the other exported to two safari parks in the United Arab Emirates (UAE). Following the conclusion of these transactions, more details are now available that allow for an evaluation of the decision to auction elephants and its consequences.
The reasons for this tender are covered in detail in a previous article on this topic. Elephant numbers are increasing and their range is expanding in Namibia, which is both a cause for celebration and concern. The key concern is related to human-elephant conflict, especially in areas where elephants have not occurred for decades. The dominant land use in these areas is livestock farming, where fencing and water infrastructure (pipes, reservoirs, drinking troughs) are not built to withstand elephants.
The elephant removal plan was thus a short-term action to alleviate some of the conflict by removing elephant herds from high-conflict areas, while simultaneously providing income to the Game Products Trust Fund (GPTF). This Fund does not contribute to MEFT’s overall budget, but is ring-fenced for conservation projects and the Human-Wildlife Conflict Self-Reliance Scheme. Long-term plans that MEFT wants to implement to reduce human-elephant conflict would thus be funded through the GPTF. Offers to pay the GPTF without removing any elephants from the target areas were not aligned with MEFT’s primary objective to reduce elephant numbers and did not include specific amounts of money or detailed plans of action. Such vague promises were therefore not considered valid bids.
Thus far, N$ 4.4 million has been paid to the GPTF by two successful bidders. One of these bidders, the N/a’an ku sê Foundation, translocated 15 elephants from the Omatjete area to their newly established private reserve covering 33,000 hectares. The other successful bidder is game farmer Gerrie Odendaal, who bought the elephant herds and resold them to two safari parks in the UAE. Since the latter bid involves exporting elephants into captive conditions outside the natural elephant range, it is the more controversial of the two. (Note that another 20 elephants have been sold on auction but are yet to be captured, and their destination yet to be revealed.)
(Left) The coloured marks represent elephant movements in Namibia, and the southern border of Etosha is represented by the upper green line. The herd moved to N/a’an ku sê’s property came from the pale blue area (Omatjete-Kalkfeld-Fransfontein). The herd exported to UAE via quarantine in Gobabis was from the pale green area (near Kamanjab). The core range of desert-adapted elephants is around the dry riverbeds in communal conservancies and protected areas further west. (Right) A land use-map showing the same overview of Namibia, demonstrating freehold and communal farming areas. Note that the desert-adapted elephant population generally ranges to the west of the red line on the map (areas receiving less than 150mm of rain per year on average)
The main issues involved with capturing wild elephants for the purposes of captivity relate to elephant conservation and welfare. Exporting elephants internationally must further satisfy conditions set by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES). Here, I provide relevant information on each of these issues as they relate to the current elephant auction.
Elephant Conservation
There are two aspects of MEFT’s elephant tender that need to be considered to evaluate this decision in terms of elephant conservation. The first is whether there was any conservation value to this decision in Namibia, and the second is whether there is any conservation value at the elephants’ ultimate destinations.
The contribution to GPTF and the short-term alleviation of some human-elephant conflict in the two target areas has some conservation value. This is especially so if the N$ 4.4 million is earmarked not just for conservation projects generally but for implementing longer-term research and conservation projects that aim to reduce conflict and assist local farmers. Alleviating the current conflict by removing some elephants (other herds remain in the area) further shows these farmers that MEFT is willing to take concrete action to reduce conflict in the long term. Evidence of collaborative projects between MEFT, the Namibian University of Science and Technology’s Biodiversity Research Centre and Elephant Human Relations Aid strongly suggest that the elephant removals will be followed up with future assistance.
The case for elephants being exported to safari parks in the UAE having conservation value at their destination is much weaker. The Namibian Chamber of Environment (NCE) strongly agrees with the IUCN African Elephant Specialist Group on this matter: keeping elephants in captivity provides no direct benefit to elephant conservation in the wild. As Dr Chris Brown, CEO of NCE states, “keeping elephants in zoos is a Victorian-era practice that has no place in modern conservation, which focuses on maintaining wild animal populations and their associated ecosystems”.
This is part of a larger debate, however, as zoos and safari parks worldwide claim that they have a role to play in educating the public and creating awareness of the need to conserve animals in Africa. Some zoos provide conservation grants, while others claim to contribute to species conservation through research and captive breeding programmes. One of the safari parks receiving these Namibian elephants is a member of the European Association of Zoos and Aquaria (EAZA) and the other states that EAZA will be a partner in their future breeding programmes. Both parks have refused to be publicly named as destinations for these elephants.
Regardless of the claims made by zoos and safari parks of their contribution to conservation, it would have been vastly preferable if these elephants were sent to other African range states with depleted elephant populations. As MEFT discovered from the responses to their tender notice, however, there are vanishingly few areas in Africa that are ready to receive elephants at this time. MEFT is certainly willing to engage with other African countries to assist with restocking depleted elephant populations, but one would first have to address the causes of that depletion (e.g. poaching) before undertaking a reintroduction programme.
In early 2020, African Parks signed a management agreement with Iona National Park, which is part of a Transfrontier Conservation Area (TFCA) that includes Namibia’s Skeleton Coast National Park. Elephants from north-western Namibia would therefore be well-suited to conditions in south-western Angola. It will likely take a few years of improving the infrastructure and staff capacity to address poaching in Iona before they are ready to accept elephants. African Parks did not approach MEFT regarding these elephants, so it is reasonable to conclude that they are not ready to receive elephants yet. MEFT is more than willing to support an elephant translocation to Angola provided they receive a formal request from that government.
Moving elephants within Namibia to areas that are suitably fenced is another option, which was provided by N/a’an ku sê’s new private reserve. Like other Southern African nations with growing elephant populations, however, there are very few areas in Namibia that can host more elephants. Translocating the elephants back into Etosha National Park, for example, would have a low likelihood of success because Etosha’s population is close to its capacity. This is why these elephant groups broke out of Etosha in the first place – to seek water and grazing elsewhere. Further, the Etosha fence line is in no fit state to keep elephants inside the park. Even some private farms in Namibia that have elephants struggle to maintain their fences against elephant damage, thus becoming a source of human-elephant conflict rather than a solution.
With clearly limited options for translocating wild elephants to other areas within natural elephant range that could make a significant contribution to conservation, what other options remain for MEFT? The only other practical option for reducing elephant numbers in the short-term is culling. Unlike the tender option, this would provide no income to GPTF. Since CITES prevents international ivory trade, the only value that could be captured from culling is the meat that could be locally distributed or sold. As Botswana discovered, this option is even less popular among the general public than a live elephant auction.
Elephant Welfare
Some of the greatest protests against exporting elephants to captivity are related to animal welfare. Certainly, if the destination of these elephants were small concrete enclosures in disreputable zoos, this move would be rightly condemned on animal welfare grounds alone. The practice of separating young animals from their mothers and training them using cruel or questionable methods to “break” them is abhorrent. The conditions of the Namibian tender (that family groups had to be moved together) were such that unscrupulous buyers such as these would not be interested, and several other conditions set out in the tender document addressed elephant welfare during the translocation process.
Gerrie Odendaal, the game farmer who organised and paid for the translocation, quarantine and export of the 22 elephants destined for the UAE was also concerned for the welfare of these animals. He remained in constant contact with an independent veterinarian and the MEFT wildlife veterinarian during the time that the elephants were in his care. He says that when they arrived at his 28-hectare quarantine facility, the elephants were aggressive and afraid of people, probably because they were continually harassed on the farms around Kamanjab. Odendaal continues, “after a few weeks in my care, they calmed down considerably and even females with young calves were comfortable in the presence of people.” Odendaal commented, “I even fed the older bull with apples straight from my hand, although I respected their space and never approached them on the ground.”
Gerrie Odendaal’s 28-hectare quarantine facility features a feeding area that elephants are free to move out of surrounded by shipping containers; A close view of this elephant’s left ear reveals several neat puncture holes, likely caused by small-calibre bullets used to chase the elephants away from farms; Caretakers stand on the containers to feed them and do not approach them from the ground; Artificial shade was created near the feeding area.
Photos of these elephants reveal neat puncture holes in the ears of some of the older females, which have most likely been caused by small-calibre bullets intended to chase the elephants away from farms where they were unwelcome. Sadly, one of the younger elephants seems to be an orphan. Odendaal speculates: “It is old enough to feed itself, but does not associate closely with any of the adult females. It seems that its mother was killed sometime before we captured the herd.”
The 28-hectare camp is based on the final destination facility at one of the safari parks (the elephant enclosure at the other one is 24 hectares). Prior to the elephants’ arrival, Odendaal’s quarantine area contained large camel thorn trees and plenty of smaller bushes, but the elephants have destroyed these trees in the last few months (the quarantine period had to be extended due to COVID-related travel restrictions). Artificial shade near the feeding area has therefore been provided to replace the shade trees. Odendaal provided bales of lucerne, branches harvested from bushes on the rest of his farm, and hundreds of apples to sustain the elephants’ healthy appetites. The herd was provided with fresh piped water and a muddy pool to cool themselves off.
In consultation with a veterinarian who has many years of experience with elephants, the 22 elephants that were captured in Kamanjab were split into two female herds, with one unrelated bull each, that were delivered to the two safari parks at the same time. While in quarantine, all of these elephants were kept together and the two sub-groups were identified by closely observing how the herd split up when moving around the camp. The elephants that were born in the quarantine facility (having been conceived in the wild prior to capture) were added to the Namibian CITES export permit and were provided with extra care during transit. On the Namibian side of this translocation, every effort was taken to ensure the welfare of these elephants, and the destinations in the UAE seem to be capable of maintaining a high welfare standard.
Concerns nonetheless remain about the destination of the next generation of elephants, if these herds breed successfully in the UAE. Dr Brown comments: “Their future is now out of our hands. Will they land up in Victorian-style, cramped zoos, or in even worse caged conditions in China? What prevents these safari parks from selling elephants on to less reputable places? It is imperative that zoo associations (EAZA and others) ensure that captive elephant populations are carefully monitored to prevent welfare abuses of this nature.”
CITES Permits
Import and export permits are not provided by CITES itself, but each country must have its own national authority that provides such permits, following rules and guidelines set by CITES. The national authorities report to CITES regularly on their numbers of imports and exports, and provide information to the CITES Secretariat on specific decisions when required.
CITES categorises plants and animals that are (or could be) threatened by international trade into Appendix I, II and III (Appendix III is not of concern here). Species in Appendix I are considered to be highly threatened by international trade. CITES therefore restricts all trade in these species, except under specific conditions. Appendix II species are considered to be not currently threatened by international trade, but could become so if this trade is not closely controlled. African elephants are listed as Appendix I in all range states except Namibia, Botswana, South Africa and Zimbabwe, where they are listed under Appendix II.
Previous exports of elephants from Zimbabwe to non-African states (including China and the UAE) were completed under Appendix II guidelines, which state that the animals can only go to appropriate and acceptable destinations. At the most recent CITES Conference of the Parties (CoP18) in 2019, the definition of what is appropriate and acceptable was amended to destinations located within the natural range of African elephants and that contribute to in situ (i.e. in the wild) conservation programmes.
A recent statement by CITES on the Namibian elephant export explains the conditions that national authorities must adhere to when issuing export and import permits for Appendix I and II species. From this statement, it is clear that if Appendix II conditions are not met, the animals must be treated as Appendix I species. Given the recent restrictions on exporting Appendix II species outside of elephant range, these Namibian elephants are being exported and imported under Appendix I conditions.
Under these conditions, the Namibian national authority (MEFT) must be satisfied that this particular deal is:
a) not detrimental to the survival of the species;
b) not illegal under national laws;
c) the translocation methods must minimise the risk of injury, damage to health or cruel treatment; and
d) that an import permit has been granted by the destination country.
The Namibian government has met all of these conditions and is therefore operating within CITES regulations.
As the importing country, the UAE national authority must be satisfied that:
a) the transaction is not detrimental to the survival of the species;
b) the facility where the elephants will be kept is suitably equipped to house and care for them; and
c) the elephants are not to be used for primarily commercial purposes.
The last clause does not refer to money being paid to the exporter for the animals, but for how the buyer in the importing country will use those animals. Since the UAE has granted an import permit that covers both safari parks, it seems that their national authority is satisfied that they meet all three of these conditions (the third condition is described in more detail here).
On final evaluation
The definitive evaluation of MEFT’s decision to auction 170 elephants is thus not straightforward. From a CITES point of view, it is legal. In judging whether or not it was a good decision, one must take into account both conservation and welfare concerns.
For conservation purposes, at the very least, these decisions must not compromise the survival of the elephant population. Removing 170 elephants from farmlands outside protected areas will not have a detrimental effect on the survival of the Namibian elephant population, thereby meeting this minimum condition. The most vulnerable sub-population in Namibia occurs in arid areas on the unfenced communal conservancies and protected areas in the far west: these are commonly known as the desert-adapted elephants. The elephants that were removed are not part of the desert-adapted population, but occur directly south of Etosha.
MEFT and its partners are implementing a longer-term plan to try and mitigate the conflict between farmers and the remaining elephants. It is reasonable to say that a net gain for conservation was achieved for Namibia by selling rather than culling these herds. Nevertheless, keeping elephants in captivity has no direct conservation value, as reintroductions from captivity into the wild are far more costly and risky for the elephants than wild-wild translocations.
On the welfare side, our actions must limit animal suffering as much as possible. In this case, not removing elephants from farmlands also has negative welfare implications, as they may be harassed and even killed by frustrated farmers. We do not know what the elephants would choose if given the option between a safe, boring life in captivity, a dangerous life alongside hostile humans, or a quick death at the hands of a professional culling team. Of the options available for captivity, large safari park enclosures that allow whole family herds to stay together in semi-natural conditions are preferable to individual elephants living in cramped zoo conditions.
In an ideal world, none of this would be necessary. Humans and elephants would have no problems living side-by-side, the elephant range could keep expanding across southern Africa with no difficulties, and poaching would no longer be a problem. No elephants would be kept in captivity worldwide, and anyone wishing to see an African elephant would visit protected areas on the continent and thus boost tourism revenues. Unfortunately, we do not live in an ideal world. In reality, decision-makers have to strike a balance between competing human and elephant needs, while taking elephant conservation and welfare into account.
Life in sub-Saharan Africa is ruled over by the cadence of the seasons. Nowhere in East Africa is the dichotomy between the dry and wet season more apparent than in Tanzania’s Katavi National Park. The arrival of the rains transforms landscapes, and a scarcity (or overabundance) can mean the difference between life and death. As the last thunderstorm dissipates beyond the horizon in Katavi, the park swelters beneath a merciless sun. Rivers slow to a trickle, honeycomb cracks appear in the mud, and the remaining water becomes a raw battleground. Hippos pack together in lingering wallows, crocodiles slither into sandbank caves, and herbivores must run the predator gauntlet as they line up to quench their thirst each day. For those in the know, this is what makes the remote Katavi one of the most electrifying safari destinations – a seldom-visited natural nirvana.
Katavi National Park
At 4,500km2 (450,000 hectares), Katavi is one of Tanzania’s largest national parks. It is situated not far from the country’s western border, just east of Lake Tanganyika in a truncated arm of the Great Rift Valley (the Rukwa Rift Basin) that ends around Lake Rukwa. The Lyamba Iya Mfipa and Mlele escarpments line the park to the west and east. The protected area is significantly augmented by surrounding game reserves, including Rukwa, Lukwati and Luafi (also spelt Lwafi) Game Reserves. Together with the national park, these reserves encompass some 12,000km2 (1,2 million hectares) of prime wilderness, stretching to the Ruaha ecosystem to the east and the chimpanzee forests of Mahale National Park to the north. Much of the park is dominated by miombo woodland interspersed by vast open clearings (including the 425km2 – 42,500 hectares – Katisunga Plain) and floodplains. Naturally, life revolves around the park’s rivers and reed-lined waterway networks. The Katuma River feeds the seasonal Katavi and Chada Lakes, its network supplemented by the Kavu and Kapapa Rivers. Ancient riverine forests dominated by tamarind trees line these river systems, providing ample shade for the elephants, buffalos and tourists that seek refuge beneath the canopy during the soporific heat of the day.
East Africa is, of course, a safari mecca and there are many places where wildlife viewing is simply extraordinary. Yet Katavi, on Tanzania’s southern circuit, stands out because it is so far off the traditional beaten safari track that it receives fewer than 500 visitors every year. Those visitors who make the journey are richly rewarded and often find themselves with a vast chunk of African savanna to themselves, without another tourist in sight.
Katavi’s predators are not as habituated to humans as in more popular reserves, providing truly wild experiences
Without the pressure of high tourist densities, the park authorities offer more freedom and activities to their adventurous patrons. Walking safaris are permitted in the company of an armed ranger, and self-drive visitors looking to camp in the park have innumerable options when picking a suitable site.
The park’s animals are less accustomed to people and vehicles. While far from skittish, they do not display the almost zoo-like disinterest in passing cars as seen in some more popular safari destinations. This, combined with Katavi’s remote and secluded ambience, gives the impression of a world where, for once, humankind is not entirely in control.
The Wild West
While Katavi’s far-flung and off-the-map quality is its most impressive drawcard, that is not to suggest that the wildlife sightings are not jaw-dropping in their own right. As already mentioned, Katavi truly comes into its own as a safari destination during the dry season. As the grass turns golden, the vanishing water turns the park into an extravaganza of nature at her most raw. This region boasts Tanzania’s highest densities of hippos and crocodiles – obviously species entirely dependent upon the presence of water. Yet, both have adapted to survive the annual disappearance of their preferred habitat for months at a time. Pods of hippos pack themselves into mud wallows by the hundreds, desperately seeking protection from the blazing sun. Social though hippos may be, hundreds of two-tonne animals crowded together are bound to cause the odd neighbourly feud and fights between bulls are especially common. During this spectacle, the resultant photographic opportunities are renowned for their bleak representation of nature’s savagery. Somewhat sensibly, the crocodiles prefer to avoid these Brobdingnagian mosh pits. Instead, they crowd into caves on the riverbanks, slithering over each other for a prime spot and entering a state of dormancy to wait out the dry season.
Bloats of hippos numbering in the hundreds are a common sight in Katavi during the dry season
The more land-based creatures of Katavi are also forced to congregate around the drying water points, and the profusion of wildlife on display from May until October is an impressive sight. The Katavi region is known for its massive herds of buffaloes and numerous elephants, and hosts robust populations of lions, painted wolves (wild dogs), cheetahs, and hyenas. Elands gather in large herds in certain parts of the park, and fortunate visitors could be lucky enough to spot both roan and sable antelopes.
Over 400 bird species have been recorded. Naturally, most visitors are looking to take advantage of the mammal displays of the dry season, which does not equate with the best birding opportunities that Katavi offers. Instead, the best time for bird watching in the park is when the migrant species return to “summer” in Katavi from November until April, coinciding with the arrival of the rains. During these months, the seasonal lakes fill, and floodplains revert to boggy marshland, making the waterbird viewing exceptional.
Large gatherings of wildlife around the shallowing water points in the drier months provide astonishing displays
Explore & Stay
Want to go on safari to Katavi? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.
Though Katavi may be remote, the park and surrounds offer a small number of luxury lodges on par with grandeur and comfort found anywhere else in Africa. These beautiful camps are carefully positioned to take full advantage of the arid months, offering spectacular “armchair” wildlife viewing from the lodge decks between game drives. Unfortunately, most of the camps are closed for part of, if not all, of the rainy season from November until May, when the roads become sludgy, and parts of the park become totally inaccessible. For the more intrepid visitor, camping and self-drive through the park is an option, though it is essential to consider the journey to get there (measured in days rather than hours). Most visitors opt to fly into the Ikuu airstrip – a three-hour flight from Dar es Salaam.
Chada Katavi is a luxurious option when exploring the park, and Mbali Mbali offers a comfortable, remote experience away from regular tourist routes
Parting thoughts
In the heart of Katavi National Park, near Lake Katavi, an innocuous-looking tamarind tree holds a deep spiritual meaning. Here, the Bende and Pimbwe people believe that the spirit of Katabi – a great hunter – has taken up residence, and he looks out across the mountains where his wife, Wamweru, resides. Katavi was named for Katabi, the hunter-spirit, and it is believed that gifts and offerings placed at the base of the tree will bring good fortune and blessings. The local people are seemingly content to share the favours of Katabi, and visitors are encouraged to leave behind their gifts to the precious tree.
This gem of cultural history is just one part of what makes the Katavi experience so raw and intense – an awareness of both the power of nature and our intimate, intuitive connection to it. With her seasonal foibles and dramatic interplay of life and death, untrammelled Katavi is genuinely one of Tanzania’s best-kept secrets.
Katavi’s camps are carefully positioned to take full advantage of the surroundings
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Best photos + top painted wolf spots + Japan’s illegal ivory
Once in a blue moon, a safari opportunity comes along that awakens the ESSENCE of me. As if someone has stuck a big spoon into my soul and stirred every raw nerve, every instinctive impulse.
I had, of course, heard of Chitake, but THESE IMAGES & VIDEO became the stirring spoon, and I took more notice. Then my colleague Nadia spent a few days there and came back with stories of sleepless nights because of the loud nocturnal battles between lions and their targets – buffaloes and elephants. She is an experienced guide with tons of bush time – and not prone to exaggeration. Her final summation: ‘Next level.’
And so we crafted this safari. The first group of six sold out in hours, and we have four places left on the second (and only other) group. This safari is not about rim-flow pools and crystal champagne flutes – it’s in-your-face primal Africa. Here be dragons …
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
When teamAG isn’t out finding the best safaris, we’re at our desks packaging them for delivery to you. So we too have time to develop travel FOMO. Especially when we’re choosing (and reliving) Africa’s 6 painted wolf hotspots – see our first story below. For me, it’s Kruger. For Simon, the vital population of Khwai, and for Jamie, the famous canids of Mana Pools.
Our third story brings you the week’s best photos, where you can visit the otherworldly Danakil Depression and the tuskers of Amboseli.
By contrast, images of raw ivory from Japan’s legal market, which commoditises elephants and conceals illegal international trade, bring a stark reality home. Our second story below refers.
Send us your thoughts (join the club to comment)!
Happy celebrating Africa to you all.
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
At the top of your newsletter, the photograph features the glorious sandstone Chilojo Cliffs, Gonarezhou National Park’s most famous landmark. Below them flows the Runde River on its way to the confluence with the Save River and then a meandering journey of over 300km to the Indian Ocean. Why do I mention this? Because Zambezi sharks are regularly recorded at the confluence.
Did you know that the Zambezi shark (bull shark) thrives in both salt and fresh water? These are not just brief forays upriver into estuaries either – they have been known to travel as far as 1,100km from the ocean up the Mississippi River and 4,000km up the Amazon River into Peru. These are usually gravid females searching for a safe place to give birth. So a short trip to landlocked Zimbabwe is nothing for a shark with travel FOMO.
Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
We are open for entries from 1 February 2022 to midnight on 30 April 2022. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.
A sighting of African painted wolves (wild dogs) is one of the most exhilarating safari experiences and a guaranteed highlight for guests. From their frenetic hunts to playful pack time, these lithe and athletic predators present true poetry in motion. But, unfortunately, they are also one of Africa’s most endangered carnivores.
Looking for the best place to see them in the wild? Here’s a list of our top six favourite painted-wolf destinations:
The wild dogs of Mana Pools National Park recently rose to prominence as the star characters in the BBC series, Dynasties. Yet, for those in the know, the national park and surrounds have long been recognised as one of the best places in Africa to see these charismatic canids.
What makes Mana a particularly fabulous destination for viewing painted wolves is that visitors can walk without a guide. Regular encounters have ensured that the painted wolves are unusually comfortable with people on foot.
It is important to remember that this is a privilege, not a right, and the African painted wolves should be treated with absolute respect. Keep noise to a minimum, set up a comfortable distance and enjoy the magic of this truly unique experience.
The low-angle photographic opportunities in Mana Pools, Zimbabwe, are difficult to rival
Most of Northern Botswana, including Khwai Private Reserve, Chobe National Park and the Okavango Delta, is prime habitat for wild dogs and a vital population stronghold for these carnivores. The combined landscape of protected areas provides these ever-moving hunters with the space they need. As the river systems ebb and flow, painted wolves charge across the flood plains to chase down their abundant prey.
A pack photographed in Khwai Private Reserve, northern Botswana
Since their translocation to Madikwe Game Reserve in 1994, African painted wolves have become the unofficial mascot of this arid, malaria-free reserve tucked away in northern South Africa, close to the Botswana border. Though their path to success has not always been easy, the wolves are now well established, and the sparse Madikwe vegetation makes it easier to keep an eye on their antics.
Home to the largest painted wolf population in Zambia, Luangwa Valley stands out as a conservation success story where these tie-dyed predators are concerned. During the dry season, Luangwa’s multitudinous herbivores gather around the life-giving Luangwa River and painted wolves take full advantage of the buffet on offer. The floodplains set the stage for thrilling displays of athleticism as the energetic canids hurtle after antelope or reaffirm their pack bonds with a game of tag and tumble.
A wild dog on the banks of the Luangwa River above a colony of carmine bee-eaters
Bucking the overall population trend, the Kruger’s painted-wolf population is not declining and may even be steadily increasing. In Kruger National Park, use the sighting boards in camp and chat to park guides to get up-to-date information on recent reliable hotspots. Alternatively, a stay at one of the private reserves and lodges in Greater Kruger during the denning season (typically winter: June until August) will ensure unbeatable sightings of the pups emerging to take in their new world, much to the joy of the rest of the pack.
Known for its exclusive safari experiences and exceptional record for protecting endangered species, vast Laikipia county is almost entirely covered by private and community conservancies, creating a large habitat for painted wolves to roam.
The Kenyan conservancy model gives its visitors glorious freedom, allowing any visit to be tailored to specific interests. Want to tag along with a research team tasked with monitoring the painted wolves? Though not always a guaranteed option, Laikipia is an excellent place to start.
Never a dull moment
Given their fast-paced lives, keeping up with painted wolves can present something of a challenge, but the reward is well worth the effort involved. With their boundless vitality, astonishing altruism and unmistakable wet-dog smell (with a tinge of something vaguely goat-like), there is never a dull moment when African painted wolves come bounding by.
Want to go on a safari to seek wild dogs? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.
For more photos of the three packs of painted wolves featured in BBC’s Dynasties, check out the book Painted Wolves: A Wild Dog’s Life by Nicholas Dyer and Peter Blinston. The book can be purchased here.
Tell us about your favourite wild dog destinations:
Japan is failing to regulate its domestic ivory market, resulting in the perfect cover for illegally imported ivory and a supply source for illegal export. This is according to a new report compiled by the non-profit organisation, the Japan Tiger and Elephant Fund (JTEF). The report challenges the Government of Japan’s (GoJ) claim that “Japan has been implementing stringent measures to ensure that its domestic ivory market is not contributing to poaching or illegal trade”, calling it “flawed and unjustified”.
In 2016, the state parties to the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) adopted a resolution calling for those member states with a legal domestic ivory market to take urgent measures to close the commercial trade. Three years later, at the next Conference of the Parties, those states (including Japan) that opted not to do so were requested to report to the Secretariat on the measures taken to ensure that these domestic ivory markets were not contributing to poaching or illegal trade.
Japan remains the world’s most significant open ivory market. In response to the CITES request, the Government of Japan issued a firm assurance that these measures were in place, pointing to controls such as the stringent oversight of dealership registration, the compulsory registration of whole tusks and the use of carbon dating to determine tusk origin. However, the comprehensive 22-page report from the JTEF gives detailed examples of how these measures have failed in their supposed purpose.
In summary, findings of the JTEF report include:
The persistent illegal ivory exports from Japan result from the country’s authorised legal market selling many different ivory items.
The compulsory registration of ivory dealers (or renewal thereof) should involve a rigorous examination of eligibility – something the Government of Japan claims is done. However, the JTEF contends that this examination is, in reality, non-existent and does not preclude the registration of problematic dealers.
The requirement to register all whole tusks was successfully bypassed as registered dealers simply cut them into pieces and processed them into Hanko (traditional signature stamps).
The use of carbon dating to increase scrutiny for whole tusk registration came too late, and a vast number of tusks with unknown origin and acquisition have been legalised and entered the market.
Despite assurances of traceability, the report indicates that there is no official verification on the legality of origin and acquisition at the point of production for ivory cut pieces and products, making traceability impossible.
Closing the domestic legal market may be the only way to eliminate the significant trade loopholes.
The influence of Japan’s buoyant domestic ivory market on the international community’s goal of preventing illegal international ivory trade should not be downplayed.
Semi-processed ivory pieces observed at indoor antiques fairs in Tokyo and Kyoto; Display of ivory items at a shop in Tokyo’s tourist areas; Raw ivory displayed at an auction house; Newly manufactured ivory products found at two shops in Tokyo’s major tourist areas
Each chapter of the report is dedicated to one of the measures supposedly set to prevent Japan’s legal market from contributing to the illegal trade in ivory. For example, the first chapter delves into how, despite “rigorous examination”, dealership registration is granted or renewed for kingpins in the ivory market, even when these companies have a recent-track record of illegal ivory trade.
The second chapter deals with the requirement for all whole tusks to be registered before they are involved in any transactions. The registration process requires identifying each tusk’s legal origin and acquisition. According to the JTEF, the dealers predicted the 2019 tightening of tusk registration ahead of time. Given that the law only requires that whole tusks are registered, traders rushed to take advantage of the loophole by cutting registered and unregistered tusks. Unregistered stockpiles are posed as registered stockpiles using the registration cards of those already consumed.
The report also claims that carbon dating to examine tusks upon registration was intentionally delayed. As a result, tusks of unknown but questionable origin were legalised and entered the market before carbon-dating analysis may have exposed their background.
The report challenges the Government of Japan’s claims that stringent measures are in place to ensure its domestic ivory market is not contributing to poaching or illegal trade
The authors of the JTEF report conclude that not only has the Government of Japan failed to regulate the domestic ivory market, but these failures are systemic and consistent and have left the market open to the illegal trade in tusks. They call upon Japan to end all ivory trade as a matter of urgency, stating that the “stockpile is vast and the market remains tireless”.
A few weeks after the release of the JTEF report, the Standing Committee of CITES agreed that countries must continue to report on their domestic ivory markets. The EU has also called for an analysis of whether ivory seizures connected to countries that have not closed their domestic ivory markets may influence illegal international trade – a call echoed by Gabon.
Resources
For more on the extent of Japan’s ivory trade, you can watch the video of shocking evidence of Japan’s dirty ivory trade.
Cape clawless otters frolic in the coastal waters of Vermont, Western Cape, South Africa.
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Epic pics + Central Kalahari magic + entertaining otters
Such Disneyfied drama!
Fig, a confiding and beloved leopardess from a conservancy bordering the Maasai Mara, is no more – killed by a male lion. I can imagine how traumatic this must have been for the guests and guides that bore witness. And yet this PRIMAL process plays itself out all over wild Africa, in so many ways.
One gent, a respected photographer and local lodge owner, was so upset about the manner of Fig’s demise that he threw himself into a rather dramatic Facebook post. He described the lion as “a brutal alpha male” that “invaded a small unthreatening enclave“. On the lion’s behaviour, he commented that the “leonine tyrant savaged its innocent prey in an unprovoked, unnecessary and seemingly unwarranted attack“. Fig was described thus: “She was our bank, inspiration, figurehead, and confidant. She was our Zelensky.”
Stepping aside from the peculiar reference to the Ukraine situation, reactions like this from a person of influence in response to nature behaving normally emphasize the ongoing Disneyfication of real life in Africa. CELEBRATE Fig and mourn her, but never ever condemn nature for doing her thing. Drops the mic
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Is there a right way to photograph people?
A few of this week’s Photographer of the Year entries capture intimate human moments around the continent – allowing visceral views into diverse cultures and sparking introspection in the AG office. When is photographing people intrusive? Where is the line drawn between respectfully representing a complex situation, or reducing it to a one-sided, simplistic narrative? Is it invasive to position one’s lens amidst a Maasai circumcision ceremony or a Boloye dance – or does this depend on the circumstances in which a subject agrees to be photographed?
Our consensus in the office is reflected in our guidelines for submissions. Authenticity is key. Permission: essential. And the subject’s understanding of the potential exposure a photograph’s journey can bring: vital. The results can be wonderful – images that enlighten through education, stirring the viewer’s understanding of the world and expanding horizons. A single image can ignite action and change history. And it can bring inspirational Africa straight to you, our AG family. We’d love to hear your thoughts on this – comment on our Photographer of the Year entries via our first story below (join the club to comment).
For a bit of escapism this week, our second story below takes you to the wildlife-dotted plains of Kalahari Central Game Reserve. Read about this remote part of Botswana, which calls to the most rough and ready of adventurers. Happy indulging in Africa to you all!
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Every story has its villain, and nature is no different when trying to force it into a neat narrative. Vilification is inevitable when animals don’t conform to our moral expectations. It’s peculiar, the disparate values people assign different species – a lion killing a buffalo is exciting, a lion killing a leopard is a tragedy, a lion killing lion cubs is an abomination. (All often discussed in horror over a steak or pork chop dinner.)
But did you know that scientists have traced the neural pathways of infanticide? Their results are not all that straightforward, but, in essence, aggressive acts towards young of the same species (like infanticide) are mediated by regions of the brain entirely separate from those associated with other types of aggression. This behaviour is pure instinct and is therefore simply part of the natural way of things. And we cannot cherry-pick the aspects of nature we choose to appreciate…
MOUNTAIN GORILLA TREKKING is always a favourite bucket-list choice amongst our safari clients. We have our popular 3-day gorilla trekking safari in Rwanda for the time-pressured traveller. Prices are excellent, even more so for SADC tourists. It’s time to tick this one off your list …
TIPPING – when to tip and how much? Now that the go-on-safari surge is gaining momentum, we address this perennial source of angst amongst travellers. Here then, are a few tips about tipping.
WATCH: The illegal trade in African grey parrots is facilitated by traders using social media – as presented by BBC Click. This documentary features club member World Parrot Trust – Africa. Watch this portion 02:01 – 11:15
Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
We are open for entries from 1 February 2022 to midnight on 30 April 2022. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.
The Kalahari casts a spell upon her visitors – the kind of magic that can only be experienced first-hand. It is partly to do with a sense of space, a true wilderness stretching as far as the eye can see, both untamed and austerely beautiful. Yet, there is an element to the mystery of its allure, creating a tantalising combination of the immediate and the timeless. At the heart of this vast stretch of sand lies Botswana’s rugged Central Kalahari Game Reserve, where travellers can refresh world-weary souls beneath the cool blaze of the Milky Way.
The reserve and surrounds
As the name clearly implies, the Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR) is situated smack in the middle of Botswana at the centre of the Kalahari Basin. Descriptors such as “vast” or “extensive” fail to do justice to the sheer scale of this enormous reserve, which extends over 52,800km² (over five million hectares) of arid bushveld. Along its boundaries, several private conservancies have successfully converted former farmland back to its original state and the protected area is further supplemented by the 2,500km² (250,000 hectares) Khutse Game Reserve to the south.
The word “Kalahari” shares its etymology with “Kgalagadi”, likely drawn from the Tswana word “kgala”, which can be roughly translated to mean “thirst” or “to dry up”. Thus, Kalahari is interpreted as “land of great thirst” and Kgalagadi as “a waterless place”. Whatever the exact translation, the overtones are unmistakable – this is a land devoid of surface water, a harsh and inhospitable wilderness. Yet once again, this fails to encapsulate the complexity of this amazing landscape fully.
One of the Kalahari’s most iconic sights
The Kalahari Desert is technically more semi-desert (apart from the far southwestern portion) and encompasses several different types of habitats, including grasslands, scrubland, and rich arid savanna – all of which can be found within the CKGR. Throughout the reserve, there is evidence of a more bountiful time in the Kalahari’s history, when rainfall was more abundant and temperatures a little less extreme. Fossil riverbeds crisscross the reserve, the most famous of which is Deception Valley in the northeast corner, so named because of the mirage created over the surface of the salt pan.
Cheetahs thrive in the Kalahari
Although the terrain may seem harsh, nature always finds a way to survive, and the CKGR is no exception. Though not necessarily as abundant as the Okavango and Chobe areas to the north, wildlife abounds in CKGR, from herds of antelope to the predators that have learnt to stalk them through the long grasses.
Fundamentals
For the most part, the remote CKGR attracts a certain kind of traveller. These hardy adventurers are the sort prepared for any eventuality, driving 4x4s packed to the brim with equipment, water, fuel and everything but the kitchen sink (and sometimes a makeshift kitchen sink). With the astonishing capacity to set up/dismantle a rooftop tent with the speed and efficiency befitting a Formula One pitstop crew, they revel in the unspoilt peace of the wild. They will readily assist the less experienced with only a faintly detectable hint of smugness.
Adventurous travellers will be at ease setting up camp in the open wilderness of the reserve
Though it is unnecessary to be such a dab-hand at overlanding, a self-drive stay in the CKGR cannot be approached without meticulous planning. There are no shops within the reserve, and sufficient food, fuel, firewood and water must be purchased beforehand (only one camp has running water, which is not always available). Fuel supplies should be gauged with the significant distances between four entrance gates and the various campsites in mind.
The roads alternate between thick sand and clay that turns into sludge during the short rainy season. Phone signal is non-existent, and visitor density is extremely low, so it is not uncommon to spend the day exploring without seeing another soul. The northern section of the park tends to be slightly busier and offers greater concentrations of wildlife. This may all sound somewhat intimidating, but the result is more than worth the effort. This is, without doubt, one of the wildest parts of Southern Africa. The immersion in nature is absolute, and it is pretty easy to imagine one has this wilderness entirely to oneself.
Not much can compare with the experience of sleeping in a tent, with just a slip of canvas between you and the black-maned lion roaring in your campsite – with miles between you and the nearest civilisation.
Still too much? Well, fear not, less intrepid travellers can still experience the magic of the Kalahari without having to worry about being self-sufficient. The reserve and surrounds are peppered with luxury lodges where guests can still revel in the beauty and isolation of the desert — more on this below.
The creatures of the Kalahari
A leonine visit in the middle of the night is a common campsite occurrence in the CKGR, but, as might be expected, there is an element of luck involved in all desert wildlife sightings, particularly where predators are concerned. However, lions, leopards, cheetahs and African painted wolves (wild dogs) are all resident, albeit in low densities compared to some of the northern parts of Botswana.
The famous black-maned lions of the Kalahari draw many visitors to CKGR
Elephants can and do move through the reserve. Still, sightings are few and far between, and elephant enthusiasts should visit the Okavango Delta, or head to Khwai or Chobe National Park for their pachyderm fix. The upshot of this is that CKGR is generally not marketed as a suitable option for the first time or once-off safari-goers looking for the ‘Big 5’ and other iconic safari wildlife. Yet, the African desert never disappoints those who appreciate animal marvels of every shape and size.
Elephants are a less common and thus more special sighting in the reserve
Brown hyenas slink through the ancient riverbeds and smaller carnivores like jackals, caracals and honey badgers are always a highlight. The families of bat-eared foxes are a source of constant entertainment, sporting ridiculously oversized ears and somewhat sardonic expressions, while charismatic meerkats forage through the undergrowth. The usual assortment of campsite opportunists – ground squirrels, hornbills, mongooses and spurfowls, for example – are always around and don’t be surprised to find one drinking your shower water next to your feet with zero regard for privacy.
The wide-open plains of the Kalahari make for striking wildlife sightings
First people of the Kalahari
The Kalahari is the ancestral homeland of various San peoples, the oldest human inhabitants of the region and collectively one of the most persecuted groups in Southern Africa. The Gana, Gwi and Tsila Bushmen (as they have expressly confirmed they prefer to be called) previously occupied the now CKGR region as nomadic hunter-gatherers. In fact, the reserve was initially established as a “place of sanctuary” for them during the 1960s.
However, a campaign to relocate the inhabitants began two decades later, culminating in forced removals to “resettlement camps” outside the park during the mid-1990s. The move was “justified” on conservation grounds but coincided with the discovery of diamonds in the southern section of the reserve. Though some of the Gana, Gwi and Tsila people have since won their legal battle to return to their ancestral homeland, returning to their old way of life has proved next to impossible. The legal conflict continues to this day in one of the most expensive court cases in Botswana’s history. (For a brief account of some of their hardships, read about the struggle of the Kalahari people.)
The CKGR experience – game drives, walks, cultural interactions with the subcontinent’s First People and iconic African animals.
One of the highlights for many travellers is to spend time with Bushmen, tracking or learning more about their cultures and traditions. The Gana, Gwi and Tsila Bushmen have a deep and intimate connection to their homeland, and these experiences can be highly educational. Though a complete account of the land conflict in Botswana is beyond the scope of this article, it is beholden upon visitors to bear this context in mind when visiting the reserve and interacting with those who call it home. It is also essential to research the various cultural programmes on offer to ensure that the Bushmen guides receive the proceeds of this tourism-generated revenue.
Desert Rose
Though there are no roses in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, the desert does bloom once a year. The fauna and flora of the Kalahari are all beautifully adapted to survive the pulse of the desert seasons, patiently awaiting the arrival of the rains. As storm clouds gather and lightning scythes through the sky, there is almost a palpable sigh of relief from the parched earth and inhabitants. The transformation is almost immediate and utterly breathtaking. The plants seize their chance before the greedy sand soaks up the water, bursting into life, covering the red dunes in shades of green and yellow.
The reserve comes alive in the rainy season
The salt pans of the north fill with water, and the herbivores gather in large numbers around the surrounding grass plains, forming impressive herds of giraffe, wildebeest, zebra, oryx, impala and springbok. Many give birth during the height of the green season, much to the delight of tourists and predators.
Explore & Stay
Want to go on safari to Central Kalahari Game Reserve? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.
Very unusually, this desert rejuvenation means that the rainy season (between November and March) is the best time to visit the Central Kalahari Game Reserve or surrounding private conservancies. Though the afternoon thunderstorms can be disruptive to plans, they do help to take the edge off the summer heat. The only downside is that the clay soils turn into sludge, making driving conditions somewhat tricky. As expected, temperatures can be extreme, with boiling days and very chilly nights, especially during the dry season.
Luxury accommodation is available for those not willing to rough it on a self-drive 4X4 trip
There are several very basic campsites spread throughout the park, divided into state-run campsites and others that are privately operated. Generally, there is a trade-off between price and state of cleanliness/infrastructure that can be easily inferred from the above distinction. The luxury lodges offer the perfect alternative for those less keen on the necessary planning and potential pitfalls of self-drive. Of course, one of the significant advantages of going the lodge route is that the heat of the day can be spent dipping in and out of swimming pools looking out across the spectacular desert scenery!
1. LEOPARDS (10): Zero hunting quotas were issued in 2016 & 2017 because SA’s scientific authority declared that the number of leopards in the country was UNKNOWN and that trophy hunting posed a high risk to the survival of the species. Seven quotas were granted in 2018, despite significant reductions in leopard populations – including in the provinces now deemed to have ‘stable or increasing’ populations, according to Minister Creecy. Fast forward to 2022, and the quota has increased to ten leopards thanks to ‘robust data’.
2. BLACK RHINOS (10): The Minister openly declares that South Africa has 2,000 black rhinos – to justify hunting ten (0,5%). And yet she refuses, for security reasons, to divulge how many rhinos remain in our national parks after rampant poaching. So each year, we have to dig that information up.
3. ELEPHANTS (150): She is silent on how many large-tusked elephants remain in South Africa – the favoured target for trophy hunters. Most of the 150 elephants will likely be hunted on the privately and community-owned reserves on the western border of Kruger National Park (there is no fence).
#украина
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor
There is balance in nature, but it’s not a pleasing, harmonious equilibrium. It’s struck through a never-ending ebb and flow. A win here, a desperate loss there. It’s not always pretty to watch. It can unfold in scenarios unsettling for even the most hardened conservationist. I can’t stop thinking about Shafeeq Mulla’s Photographer of the Year entry for this week: an infant vervet monkey clings to the lifeless body of its mother, clutched in the jaws of a leopard. Its fate hangs in the balance – a downbeat in the rhythm of the wild. Just one of many breathtaking photos in this week’s selection in our third story below.
I’m intrigued by the superstitions surrounding ground-hornbills – the bringers of rain and thunder – and how this translates, in some cases, to the fierce protection of these birds, and in others to their persecution. Read more about these iconic birds in our first story below.
Oh, to dig my toes into the sands of an unspoiled beach on the shores of Lake Malawi, cocktail in hand, as fishermen on mokoros drift by to beat the setting sun. Our selection of the top 10 sundowner spots in Africa in our second story will have you itching to escape on your next safari.
Happy indulging in Africa to you all.
From our Scientific Editor
Did you know that some bats like to roost in pit latrines? The industrious microbes working away on the objectionable contents generate heat, creating a cosy (if pungent) place for the bats to hide. The additional protection of the concrete slab also keeps predators at bay, ensuring a good day’s sleep for the toilet’s residents. The only thing they have to worry about is the occasional anthropogenic interruption.
A chance in-situ encounter with one such surprised bat (combined with the realisation that this phenomenon was absent from scientific literature) inspired further research. The findings were recorded in the African Journal of Ecology in a paper entitled “Like a bat out of hell“.
The 2022 safari booking season has kicked off with a vengeance, and Africa’s wild places will once again soon be blessed with travellers – although still at lower volumes than prior to Covid. So if you have not yet booked your next safari with us, consider these gems:
Desert & delta safari – 11 days traversing the Okavango Delta, Chobe and Nxai Pan national parks (Botswana) and Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe). Mid-range and luxury itineraries available.
Our CEO’s choice. This is one for the experienced traveller wanting to do something completely different; a complete break from the clutter of modern-day life and Covid-era stresses. Search for lowland gorillas, bongos, forest elephants, dwarf crocodiles and flocks of grey parrots in the jungles and bais of the Odzala-Kokoua National Park in Congo.
And finally, this I-want-to-be-there video from The Outpost Lodge in the far north of Kruger National Park will have you ferreting out your dusty passport and packing your bags. Check out our app for the best prices at this and other camps & lodges throughout Africa.
WATCH: Free-roaming BLACK RHINOS are flourishing in Namibia – because rural people have an incentive to have them around (8:10). Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
We are open for entries from 1 February 2022 to midnight on 30 April 2022. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.
Cocktails anyone? Safari tradition dictates that the end of the day be celebrated with a traditional sundowner – and snacks, of course! – enjoyed as the last golden rays of the setting sun impart their hue to the surrounding wilderness. Whether accompanied by designer G&Ts, local brews/wines, or some ice-cold water for the somewhat sunburned, there is no doubt that Africa boasts some of the planet’s best places to watch the sun go down.
Want to go on safari to one of these sublime spots? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.
Here is a list of some of our favourite sundowner spots, and why (in no particular order):
1. The Oloololo Escarpment, Maasai Mara, Kenya
Enjoying a sundowner as darkness falls over the Oloololo escarpment, the plains of the Maasai Mara below
The Oloololo Escarpment rises sharply 300 metres above the plains of Maasai Mara, affording visitors an extraordinary view of the serpentine path of the Mara River. If you are a fan of classic films, you might recognise this spectacular vantage as the one seen in the film Out of Africa. Recreate your own African romance and celebrate the spectacle that is the Great Migration. Take a moment to breathe, take a step back, and quite literally see the “big picture”.
2. Sossusvlei, Namib-Naukluft National Park, Namibia
The dying embers of the day over the Namib-Naukluft
The stark beauty of this salt and clay pan at the heart of the Namib-Naukluft National Park lies in the towering cerise dunes – some of the world’s largest. The rich, soft sand that has drifted in over the centuries begins to glow as the sun sets while the barking geckos begin their evening chorus. It is time to settle back with a sundowner and watch the rise of arguably the best stargazing display in Africa.
3. Victoria Falls Zimbabwe (or Zambia)
The sunset through the mists of Victoria Falls
The world-famous Victoria Falls marks the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. As the mighty Zambezi tumbles down over 100 metres, it throws up a spray that can, on occasion, be seen for kilometres. At dusk the descending peace allows you to consider what David Livingstone must have felt when he first laid eyes on the world’s largest waterfall.
4. Ngorongoro Crater, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania
A magical evening in the Ngorongoro Crater
At the centre of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area lies the Crater – the largest intact caldera in the world – surrounded by a rim that rises 2,300 meters above the grasslands below. Almost all Africa’s iconic animals, including the Big 5 and beyond, shelter in this geological cradle. Where better to appreciate the ancient geological forces that shaped East Africa than from the rim of a massive, extinct volcano? It’s a bit like stepping back in time to a lost world (but with readily available drinks).
5. Naga stream, Odzala-Kokoua National Park, the Republic of Congo
A refreshing drink after a day of forest trekking
Odzala-Kokoua National Park, rich in biodiversity, lies in the northern reaches of the Republic of the Congo and protects an enormous expanse of pristine Central African rainforest. Its many streams tumble their way through the trees before draining into the swampy forest baïs. Okay, so this is less about the sunset (the most you will see are some golden shafts filtering through the trees) and more about the atmosphere befitting a life-changing sundowner, soaking tired feet after a day spent with lowland gorillas.
6. Chobe River, Chobe National Park, Botswana
Paddling home in the Chobe evening
The Chobe River, the lifeblood of Chobe National Park, marks the border between Botswana and Namibia before its confluence with the Zambezi River to the east. A sundowner is, in theory, meant to be a relaxing experience, but the sense of anticipation as thirsty wildlife approaches the water’s edge in the day’s final moments adds another dimension to your sundowner.
7. Lake Malawi, Malawi
A fisherman makes his way home on Lake Malawi
Lake Malawi/Lake Nyasa is an African Great Lake – the southernmost lake in the East African Rift System and the fifth-largest freshwater lake in the world. The shores are lined by unspoiled sandy beaches, and below the surface, over 1,000 different freshwater fishes dart between the rocks. Why Lake Malawi? Because beaches, sunsets and cocktails are a winning combination.
8. Lanner Gorge, Makuleke Contractual Park, Kruger, South Africa
The afternoon wanes over Lanner Gorge
This magnificent viewpoint marks the border between the magical Makuleke Contractual Park and the Kruger National Park. Here the Luvuvhu River has carved a winding path through the sandstone to create a breathtaking gorge that is over 150 metres deep at some points. The views from the lookout point provide the perfect spot to ponder what life must have been like for the people of Africa’s ancient civilizations 900 years ago.
9. Luangwa River, South Luangwa, Zambia
The perfect way to end a day on the Luangwa River
Life in the Luangwa Valley centres around the Luangwa River and the rich floodplains that spill over into the surrounding savannahs and woodlands. South Luangwa is the largest of the valley’s four national parks and is renowned for the enormous herds of elephants and buffalos that congregate along the riverbanks. After an adrenaline-tinged day of walking in Big 5 country, soaking your feet in the cool waters of the Luangwa River is the perfect way to decompress.
10. Wherever you are, Africa
Sunset is a gorgeous time of the day anywhere in Africa
Wherever you might find yourself in Africa, enjoying the beach, sitting with sleepy lions, decompressing after a walking safari. Stay there. Take a moment, look up and appreciate the unique display nature has prepared for you.
We’ve shown you ours, and now it’s your turn. Tell us about your favourite sundowner spot or memory by logging in to our app and commenting below this story. Details on how to get the app can be found below.
Nothing quite compares to the moment that morning breaks over the African bushveld. Through the strident calls of francolins, kingfisher trills, and melodious cuckoos cuts a low, booming sound – a primitive, hollow and deeply evocative duet that brings to mind an ancient instrument. It is the voice of Africa’s thunderbird: the southern ground-hornbill. This charismatic bird is one of Africa’s most iconic bird species. And the dawn chorus would simply not be the same without the haunting sound of the thunderbird.
The basics
The southern ground-hornbill (Bucorvus leadbeateri) is the largest member of the hornbill family by far – a stocky bird around the size of a wild turkey, weighing anywhere between 2.0 to 6.2kg. Other than the fringe of white primary feathers on the edges of their wings, they are almost entirely clad in plumage of glossy ebony feathers. Their faces are characterised by vivid patches of bare crimson skin, giving the vague impression that they have been smacked in the face by an overripe tomato. Adult females can be easily distinguished by a patch of violet-blue skin below the beak that extends down the throat. Though these bright patches likely play a significant role in intraspecies communication, recent research has shown that, along with the casque (an extension of the maxilla bone on the beak), these wattles play a role in thermoregulation.
Ground-hornbills can and do fly – surprisingly gracefully for such large birds – but spend 70% of their days on the ground (hence the name). Their fierce yellow-green eyes are lined by a thick layer of long eyelashes that help to protect them from dust, sticks, and other risky realities of life spent foraging at ground level. Ground-hornbills are fierce avian apex predators, feeding on everything from snakes to small mammals. They use a combination of robust, scaly legs and a mighty beak to subdue prey. Though often described as omnivorous, most research indicates that they are almost exclusively carnivorous, with the bulk of their diet consisting of arthropods.
Ground-hornbills live in highly territorial groups that occupy individual ranges of 100-250km2 (depending on the type of habitat and quality of resources available). The consequence of this is that, despite a relatively large distribution across 16 countries in Southern and East Africa and parts of Central Africa, they occur at relatively low densities. They are among the continent’s most threatened birds and are allocated an overall classification of “vulnerable” on the IUCN Red List. Southern ground-hornbills belong to the Bucorvus genus along with their close relatives, Abyssinian ground-hornbill (Bucorvus abyssinicus) of northern sub-Saharan Africa and West Africa.
A ground-hornbill with a grizzly scrub hare meal
Quick facts
Length: 90–129cm Wingspan: 1.2–1.8m Mass:Females: 2.2–4.6kg / Males: 3.5–6.2kg Social structure: Cooperative breeding groups, usually with a dominant breeding pair Breeding season: The wet season (between late October and March in Southern Africa) Life expectancy: Around 40–50 years in the wild, up to 70 in captivity!
Birds of a feather
Southern ground-hornbills are obligate cooperative breeders – the largest known cooperative breeding bird in the world. They live in groups of up to twelve individuals, usually consisting of the breeding pair and male helpers from previous clutches. These (typically male) offspring delay dispersal for years to help care for future generations. Though female offspring may remain with the parents for a few years, only one adult female is tolerated in a group, and breeding is strictly between the breeding pair. This babysitting and caregiving experience is a vital learning curve – individuals that do not have around six years of helper experience do not breed successfully upon maturity.
Caregiving is offered to both the mother and chick once it hatches. The female will nest in a deep hollow of large trees (they are particularly picky on that subject, more below) at the start of the rainy season and lay between one and three eggs. Unlike other smaller hornbill species, she does not close herself off from the outside world, but the males of the group will keep her fed and protected while she incubates the eggs for just over 40 days. She remains with the newly hatched chick for another month while her bevvy of helpers flurries backwards and forwards with tasty snacks for mum and baby.
Though the female almost always lays more than one egg, only one chick will survive more than a few days, with either active or passive siblicide being a common occurrence. The adults will ignore the younger siblings, even when food is abundant, leading researchers to hypothesise that these eggs are simply an “insurance policy” if the first doesn’t hatch.
Southern ground-hornbills are extremely slow to mature and take more than two months to fledge fully. Even then, the juveniles remain dependent on their parents and older siblings for at least another year, if not two. As a result of this extremely high level of parental investment, it is not uncommon for breeding pairs to only produce one chick every three years.
These juveniles can be easily picked out of a group because the bare patches around the eyes, throat and face are grey. For the next six years, this skin will gradually transform to yellow, mottled orange and eventually red as the bird reaches maturity between six and seven years old. Even then, though the bird is likely sexually mature, they are unlikely to breed for several more years.
The distinctive wing feathers of the ground-hornbill
Long live the ground-hornbill
Southern ground-hornbills (and Abyssinian ground-hornbills) tick many boxes that make a species particularly vulnerable to steep population declines. They are a long-lived species that require high levels of parental care and take years to mature and produce offspring of their own. Even then, only one chick is forthcoming every three years – their reproduction rate is low. This is a similar problem to that experienced in species like rhinos or elephants. However, while those large mammal species have relatively low natural mortality rates, ground-hornbill chicks are exceptionally vulnerable during fledging. (They do, however, have very high natural survival rates once they reach adulthood.)
Ground-hornbills almost exclusively nest in the hollows of large, long-lived tree species. Unfortunately, these are usually the first plant species to disappear due to human encroachment. When a female’s preferred nest site is destroyed, it may take her years to accept a suitable replacement, which can destabilise the breeding groups.
Other threats facing ground-hornbills include secondary poisoning, particularly when the hornbills scavenge poison-laced carcasses intended for other species. Lead toxicosis is also a threat. Ammunition containing lead spreads fragments through carcasses; the discarded portions left behind after hunting can easily lead to the deaths of ground-hornbills and any scavengers, avian and mammal.
Finally, ground-hornbills are known to make enemies of local communities. Anyone who has ever watched a hornbill attack its reflection will be able to testify to this family’s indignant determination to see off a potential rival. Imagine a turkey-sized bird with a beak large enough to crush bone and picture the potential damage to windows, cars, and any other reflective surface. In impoverished rural communities, this destruction of property makes ground-hornbills obvious targets for persecution.
Just about any sort of meat that can be overpowered will be consumed. In this case a venomous puff adder
The bringer of thunder
Interestingly, throughout their range, southern ground-hornbills are the subjects of considerably disparate traditional beliefs. In some cultures, they are strongly associated with death and misfortune, which may translate to either direct killing and persecution or a taboo around harming them, depending on the belief. Ground-hornbills are sometimes associated with altered human perception, making them popular in traditional medicines.
Perhaps the most well-known belief surrounding ground-hornbills is their association with rain and thunderstorms. This likely arose since their breeding season (when they call most frequently) occurs at the height of the rainy season. So powerful is this belief in some cultures that it is thought that a single feather left in a river could result in a flood. For the most part, this association with rain (and, therefore, life) works to the benefit of the southern ground-hornbill. However, it can result in hornbills being targeted for rituals and traditional medicine during times of drought.
Conserving the ground-hornbill
Though the southern ground-hornbill is listed as “vulnerable” by the IUCN Red List, there are several countries within their range where the ground-hornbill is severely threatened. They are endangered in South Africa, Namibia, Lesotho and Swaziland and may soon be critically endangered in South Africa and Lesotho. The populations in Kenya, Tanzania, Malawi, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Mozambique also require concerted conservation efforts to keep numbers stable.
The many threats facing them, combined with contrasting cultural perceptions, require multi-pronged approaches from the organisations dedicated to conserving the ground-hornbill. This is accomplished through (among other initiatives) education programmes, the provision of nest boxes, and the protection of remaining habitats. Some projects also remove the second chick from the nest (only the older chick survives under natural conditions) and hand-raise the youngsters. Artificial breeding groups are created before the birds are released back into their former range. This must be done in such a way that the birds do not form an attachment to the human caregivers (through puppets and other methods). The young hornbills must also be given sufficient “helper practice” during the first, crucial developmental stage years.
Tortoises are something of a ground-hornbill speciality
Conclusion
Sadly, the very traits that make southern ground-hornbills one of Africa’s most iconic bird species have made them more vulnerable to human impact. Fortunately, programmes aimed at changing perceptions through culturally bespoke initiatives are showing signs of success. Protecting the southern ground-hornbill is essential not just because of their ecological role. They are complex, social animals, and we still do not fully understand the nuances of their intelligence or evolution. Through research, we hope to learn more on the finer nuances of this charismatic bird.
Making the most of the moment when a bull elephant comes close to check you out. Elephants Alive is a project supported by our travel & conservation club.
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Extraordinary pics + Chitake killing fields + caracals & Tom Cruise about town
As I sip my early morning mug of pressed coffee …
Tom Cruise is 250m away in a gorgeous boutique guesthouse – probably conducting his early morning rituals. He is in town for several months to shoot Mission Impossible 8. The chop of helicopter rotors overhead has become part of our lives as he travels to and from the steep forested gorges west of town. Tom has charmed this sleepy bushveld town on the Greater Kruger border with his down-to-earth manner – a true gent. Many celebs pass through on the way to nearby lodges, but few have stirred local imagination like our Tom.
Other local news is that a crocodile attacked a lady as she fished a nearby river and a young girl was dragged from her bed by a hyena. Both survived but suffered severe injuries and psychological trauma. And the marula trees are dripping with delicious fruit, driving elephants wild as they scramble to harvest this nutritious annual bounty. Life goes on.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor
After viewing this week’s Photographer of the Year selection, I’m dreaming of travel. Playful youngsters are stealing the limelight: check out the tiny jackals, baboon, leopard and seals in our third story. From new life to its creation by honeymooning lions, our photographers are pulling out the stops to capture the untamed continent.
So too has Jens Cullman, who in our first story battled the heat and dust to photograph the rituals of the Chitake Springs killing fields. The raw tension is palpable in Jens’ images – undoubtedly why the Chitake safari we offer at the end of the story booked out within hours of going live.
Our second story focuses on the urban caracals of Cape Town. I have been fortunate to bump into one in a Western Cape village – an experience more will have, with research showing caracals are attracted to the fringes of human development, at significant risk.
Right now, I’m plotting how to get to the lush Kgalagadi, which is singing with life after rains. Where will you be making your next wild discovery?
From our Scientific Editor
We all know that one person who revels in the discomfit of others as they pop and crack their various joints, from knuckles to necks. What causes this noise? This has proven to be a vexing question with several explanations, though the most common cause is likely gas bubbles caused by sudden negative pressure. Another potential explanation – like the elands in our ‘Did you know?’ fact of the week below – is the movement or readjustment of tendons and ligaments.
The good news? Cracking joints does not cause arthritis. Dr Donald Unger spent 60 years popping the knuckles of his left hand and not his right, with no unfortunate consequences. He was awarded the 2009 Ig Nobel Prize for his efforts – a suitable reward for his dedication to science.
Our 2023 photographer-guided safari to the wild Chitake Springs (Mana Pools, Zimbabwe) sold out within hours of going live on our website after publishing an epic photo gallery and video this week. So we have opened a new slot for those that missed out. We are unlikely to add further slots for 2023 because the authorities restrict volumes – for good reason. Last chance to reserve your place on this epic safari!
DID YOU KNOW: What goes click click click? When mature eland bulls over a certain size walk, their knees produce a loud clicking sound believed to be caused by a tendon slipping over the leg bone. One study suggests that this is used by males as a display of dominance. Click here for more
WATCH: Did you know that a pangolin eats up to 70 million ants per year? And that the ground pangolin can climb trees? Check out this epic video (0:31). Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
We are open for entries from 1 February 2022 to midnight on 30 April 2022. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.
Their proximity to urban areas poses significant risks to caracal populations
With the ever-expanding human population, wild animals across the globe have had to find a way to adapt to our presence. This means balancing the potential rewards (increased foraging opportunities) with the inevitable risks (such as conflict with people and domestic animals, and hazardous traffic). New research from the Urban Caracal Project examines how caracals navigate the dangers of city life in the Cape Peninsula. These highly adaptable mesocarnivores (mid-sized carnivores) are attracted to the interface of human development and wild spaces – at a significant potential cost.
To investigate how caracals adapt their behaviours, researchers from the project focused on the cats’ foraging-habitat selection across the Cape Peninsula – a section of Table Mountain National Park (TMNP) – in Cape Town. Previous research suggests that the Peninsula population numbers between 48 and 64 caracals, and the population is geographically isolated by the city of Cape Town. The borders of this region of TMNP are predominantly urban in the north, but become progressively less so to the south. The researchers divided the study region into the ‘urban region’ (north) and the ‘wildland region’ (south).
A caracal and her kitten photographed in Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, situated at the foot of Table Mountain in Cape Town
Between 2014 and 2016, 26 different caracals were captured and fitted with GPS collars. Over six months, the collars (designed to eventually fall off) provided regular updates on the caracals’ locations. The researchers combined this data with prey remains and scat analysis to examine how and where the caracals chose to hunt. They also looked at the behaviour at feeding “clusters” (where the GPS location data is clustered around a point over a specific period) to determine how the feeding caracals were behaving when in a “landscape of fear”.
The results show that caracals living in the urban region are drawn to the urban edge, foraging at the interface of the wilderness and human habitation where prey is abundant. In contrast, caracals that live in the wildland region avoid the urban edge. This selective behaviour indicates that caracals can become habituated to the presence of people and the various anthropogenic dangers. They become increasingly attracted to rewarding areas despite the risks. To mitigate the chances of being found, these “caracal urbanites” conceal themselves in surrounding vegetation and reduce their movement during times of high human activity, “hiding in plain sight”, rather than moving away.
So, is this attraction to city life a problem for caracals if they have learnt to mitigate the risks? Understanding the traits that allow caracals to persist outside of protected areas is important for designing effective conservation methods. Caracals on the fringes have learnt to trade off the increased resources with some serious risks. The dense road networks in and around cities are a significant cause of mesocarnivore mortality throughout the world, and this is particularly true for Cape Town’s caracals. In addition, exposure to things like rat poison and pesticides, as well as domestic animal diseases, remain a constant danger.
Researchers from the Urban Caracal Project focused on foraging-habitat selection across the Cape Peninsula to investigate how caracals adapt their behaviours
Behavioural plasticity – a change in behaviour resulting from exposure to stimuli – is essential, but if the costs of city life outweigh the benefits, this attraction to urban fringes could reduce population fitness. This is described as an “ecological trap” – the animals are repeatedly drawn to an attractive but harmful environment – and has the potential to lead to local extinction. Thus, even though the caracals may seem to have the city “all figured out”, the Urban Caracal Project is working on reducing some of the risks they will inevitably face. Some strategies include reducing pesticides, maintaining vegetative cover (especially in vineyards, which the caracals prefer) and traffic calming, particularly at popular crossing points.
Naturally, maintaining existing protected areas and increasing connectivity remains a priority.
Resources
The Urban Caracal Project operates in partnership with the Cape Leopard Trust. If you would like to learn more about their projects and research or potentially contribute to their vital work, you can do so here: The Cape Leopard Trust.
“It was so hot, often 34 degrees Celsius by 5 am and mid-forties by late morning, that I could not transfer my precious photos – for fear of frying the computer.My cameras were so hot that at times I could not hold them for long. The gritty dust got in everywhere – including inside camera bodies and lenses.And let’s not even talk about the insects biting me 24/7 – mosquitos at night and tsetse flies by day… This is paradise, and I will be back next year!”
Every year photographer Jens Cullmann (our 2020 Photographer of the Year) spends months camping in Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools during the peak of the dry season (September to October) – seeking out the famous resident painted wolves (wild dogs) – on foot, at a distance. He often waits for hours on end in the oppressive heat at favourite stake-outs and waits for the drama to unfold. At other times he walks for hours, revelling in the pure bliss of being self-sufficient in one of Africa’s iconic wildlife meccas.
His 2021 sojourn was different. “There were fewer dogs this year – but more hyenas (clans of up to 20) and lions. And I saw fewer big bull elephants this year. So I decided to move my base camp to Chitake Springs.”
Chitake Springs is a remote area in the southern reaches of Mana Pools National Park – on the Chitake River, a tributary of the Zambezi River. The campsite has no facilities and campers have to be self-sufficient and comfortable amongst wild animals. The spring is a perennial water source in a usually dry riverbed and provides the only water source for concentrations of wildlife. Large herds of buffalo, elephant and other herbivores converge on the water – especially during the late dry season – and predators line the steep river channel banks to ambush their desperate prey as they drink.
Jens continues: “At times, it was carnage as lions killed six buffalo calves per day. I have heard that they also target young elephants here, but this time it was all about the huge buffalo herds.”
His parting thoughts: “Chitake Springs at this time of year is very hard work for a photographer – physically very demanding and tough on your equipment. It gets hotter than it does along the Zambezi River because there is no cooling river breeze, and there is more dust. And the camping is far more basic and insular. I worked hard to produce the images below – and hope that AG’s passionate fans enjoy them.”
We share a few of Jens’ favourite images from this trip in this gallery. To stay in touch with Jens, please follow him on Instagram and Facebook, where he regularly shares his pictures and thoughts.
Scroll to the end of this gallery to book your place on a guided safari to this photographic haven, and view a dramatic video of lions killing a buffalo as witnessed by Jens.
Buffalo emerge from the dust to drink as attendant oxpeckers swirl
An exhausted buffalo is no match for hungry lions
Lillian’s lovebirds gather in flocks numbering hundreds during the dry season
This lioness is all concentration as she hones in on her prey
A dusty end to this young buffalo’s life
A white-backed vulture gets the scraps
Carmine bee-eater pirouette
Thirsty buffaloes seem unaware of the threat of watching lions
Risking life and limb
A yellow-billed egret hunts for insects
An exhausted young kudu faces up to his imminent death
Red-billed oxpeckers bathing in a shallow pool
A young chacma baboon with his Cape turtle dove meal
South Africa’s Minister of the Environment – Barbara Creecy – hosted this CRINGEWORTHY scripted ‘interview’ a few days ago, where she again heralded the drop in rhino poaching numbers as a ‘step-change in anti-poaching activities’. However, again she ignored the primary reason for the reduced poaching – the 75% plummet in Kruger rhino populations over the last 10 years.
BUT this time, she went one step further – claiming a ‘shift in poaching to private reserves’ and suggesting that government anti-poaching units were doing so well that they could now educate private landowners. Chokes on his breakfast cereal. The poaching numbers from 2021 suggest that she is either misinformed or intentionally DEFLECTING focus from the facts. 451 rhinos were poached last year, of which +/- 320 were from government reserves/parks.
My network suggests that about 1,500 Kruger rhinos remain (2020 estimate was 2,809) – from 11,026 a decade ago.
Perhaps anti-poaching funding is due for renewal, and this was a publicity stunt? It’s time for our minister to extract ground-level info and shift from spin doctoring to factual accuracy. She is blessed with hard-working, loyal staff in the reserves – and yet she ignores their input. She should address the REAL ISSUES that hamper efforts to save rhinos – like endemic corruption at all levels of government.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor
What goes into taking the perfect photograph?
All of the photographers featured in this week’s Photographer of the Year selection can attest to the power of being at the exact right place at the right time: at a waterhole in Addo Elephant National Park as hyenas take down a kudu; on the banks of Chitake Springs as a herd of buffalo storms in to drink; up at the crack of dawn to capture the vapours of a lion’s warm breath on a cold Maasai Mara morning; tracking an Ethiopian wolf on the Sanetti Plateau moments before it hunts; or waiting out the pouring rain for the reward of a dramatic cheetah hunt in Phinda. You can indulge in these experiences in our second story below. Our first story deals with a rather photogenic, cheerful, and comical subject: the gawky gerenuk of East Africa.
There is an extraordinary experience waiting around every corner of wild Africa. All you need is a little patience, and a pinch of luck. And quite a bit of preparation.
Being at the right place at the right time takes planning: working out itineraries, seeking out expert guides, finding the best route and transport, and the ideal spot to lay your head. That’s why our team of safari experts is constantly planning once-in-a-lifetime experiences for our AG tribe. You can check out these safaris on our website and these camps and lodges in our private travel and conservation club.
Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
We are open for entries from 1 February 2022 to midnight on 30 April 2022. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.
Africa boasts an impressive collection of over 70 antelope species. Some, like sable and gemsbok, are stately and proud. Others, like impala and springbok, are elegant and graceful. Bongo, kudu and nyala are drop-dead gorgeous, and the little duikers are indisputably cute. And then there is the gerenuk…
The basics
It’s probably somewhat unfair to label the gerenuk (Litocranius walleri) strange or weird-looking. After all, we are perfectly happy to accept a five-ton animal with a prehensile nose or one that stands over four metres tall and has a purple tongue. Perhaps it is simply a matter of exposure – gerenuk very seldom have a starring role in nature documentaries, nor do they feature heavily in artistic photographs of Africa’s wildlife in all its glory. Yet, there is something captivating about the gerenuk that draws the eye and makes it difficult to look away. They are, for want of a better word, goofy.
Gerenuk seem, for all the world, as though some cosmic power took hold of an impala and stretched it vertically without adding any proportional width. Their necks are absurdly long, and this, combined with the unique ability to balance on slender hind legs unsupported, allows them to feed at heights of over two meters. To complete this bizarre image, they have disproportionately small heads, which only serve to make their eyes look enormous.
The name gerenuk comes from the Somali name for the animal: gáránúug.
Unravelling the exact genetic relationships between antelopes is devilishly complex and very much a work in progress. With the advent of improved genetic sequencing techniques, genetic evidence regularly contradicts what appears to be obvious morphological similarities. We know that despite the similarity in looks and colour, gerenuk are not closely related to impala at all.
Instead, gerenuk belong to the Antelopini tribe, which includes the true gazelles (like the Thomson’s gazelle). They are also the only member of the genus Litocranius. Bizarrely, within the Antelopini tribe, the gerenuk is related to the springbok, though the two do not overlap in range at all. While springbok are confined to the drier parts of Southern Africa, the gerenuk is spread across the semi-arid areas of northern Tanzania, Kenya, Djibouti, Ethiopia and Somalia. Across parts of this range in Somalia, the gerenuk is sympatric with another antelope called the dibatag or Clarke’s gazelle (Amoodorcas clarkei), which may be their closest relative. This has yet to be genetically confirmed, and, while the two are placed in separate genera, they are almost identical but for their horns and facial markings.
Reaching where no other antelope can
Quick Facts
Shoulder height:
Males: 89-105cm
Females: 80-100cm
Mass:
Males: 31-52kg
Females: 28-45kg
Social structure:
Small herds or solitary
Gestation:
6.5-7 months
Life expectancy:
Up to 13 years or longer in captivity
Conservation status:
Near Threatened
How the gerenuk got its neck
It is a great shame that Rudyard Kipling, in the bedtime tales he told his daughter, did not alight upon the gerenuk as a possible protagonist because it is perfectly suited for a fanciful tale about how it came to look the way it does. Indeed, such a tale might provide a useful starting point because, in truth, we still don’t fully understand the process. Long necks have evolved independently in several extant (and many extinct) species, from dinosaurs to their living relatives (like ostriches) and from giraffe to the gerenuk, inspiring many a theory on their origins.
The apparent answer offered to most of us in school biology lessons on the giraffe is that long necks allow for access to juicy leaves above the reach of other competitive browsers. Unfortunately, life (and, by extension, evolution) is seldom this simple. Scientists have offered up several competing theories that have turned the giraffe’s cervical region into an icon of evolutionary biology. As it turns out, long necks have several useful functions, including fighting, watching for predators, and thermoregulation. And of course, the long neck may have evolved for one reason but conferred several advantages later on.
As for gerenuk, their curious bipedal predilection suggests that in their case, a mouthful of fresh leaves was evolution’s ultimate goal. Not only are their top two cervical vertebrae modified to prevent sub-luxation (in other words, a serious crick in the neck), but their lumbar vertebrae are also designed to aid their balance, as are their wedge-shaped hind hooves. Though most people are simply taken aback by the sight of an upright antelope, a closer look also reveals a supportive set of gluteal and thigh muscles that would make even the most avid cyclist jealous.
A ram tests a ewe for her oestrus state
Peering at the neighbours
Adult male gerenuk are territorial and solitary, generally only associating with the females that wander into their range. These territories are habitually marked by a viscous black secretion from the preorbital glands. The females are somewhat more social but generally only form small herds of fewer than six individuals. Their associations are temporary, and solitary females are a common sight.
Interestingly, despite their preference for dry habitats, the females do not seem to have a seasonal oestrus period, and they can breed throughout the year. As with all antelope, the fawns are born precocial and can stand on wobbly legs as early as 15 minutes after birth. Adorably, records from hand-reared and captive fawns show that they will start trying to balance on their hind legs from as early as two weeks old. Wild gerenuk mothers typically hide their fawns in dense vegetation for up to four months, returning every morning and evening to suckle them.
By a year old, the young are fully independent of their mothers. At this point, male offspring will occasionally form bachelor groups with other sub-adults for another two years until fully grown and capable of fighting for and defending a territory.
Unlike their Thomson’s gazelle cousins, gerenuk are reluctant runners, relying on their keen senses and surprising ability to melt into the background. When facing a predator, they will trot away or adopt a “stotting” behaviour, a high-kneed, stiff trot. A full gallop is generally reserved for emergencies, and even then, the gerenuk only reaches top speeds around half of that of a springbok or Thomson’s gazelle. This sedentary lifestyle also helps them to conserve water.
The exceptional gerenuk neck at full stretch
Where to find them in the wild?
Gerenuk prefer thornbush, avoid dense thickets or open grasslands and their densities increase in dry regions where competition with other browsers is reduced. They are perfectly adapted to survive in even the driest areas and can go for months, if not years, without drinking. The moisture that they require is drawn from selective browsing. Like most arid-dwelling animals, their kidneys are well designed to reduce water loss by concentrating their urine, and specially designed nasal passages minimise evaporative loss.
Current estimates suggest that there are fewer than 100,000 gerenuk left in the wild, and their numbers are decreasing, prompting the IUCN to change their conservation status to “Near Threatened” on the Red List in 2008. This is expected to change to “Vulnerable” in the not-too-distant future, particularly as density information from Somali is scant but unlikely to be positive. Habitat degradation and unsustainable hunting are responsible for at least a 25% decline in numbers over the past two decades.
Fortunately, their numbers remain stable in most protected spaces across their range. A visit to Kenya’s Samburu and Meru regions will guarantee sightings of these dainty antelope, and they are also found in scattered numbers in Amboseli, Lewa and the parts of Tsavo. In Tanzania, they are reasonably common around Lake Natron.
Want to go on safari to see gerenuks? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.
A ewe and a ram performing their most endearing trick
Conclusion
These tiny “giraffe gazelle” are decidedly endearing and, yes, even comic. But once you get used to the somewhat alien appearance of the unique gerenuk, you start appreciating that they are genuinely one of Africa’s most wondrous creations.
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Best pics + super tuskers + hope for painted wolves
Taps the mic …
Last week was a HAPPY WEEK for our fledgling travel & conservation club. We paid out our first round of conservation project donations to the lucky recipients. This is the humble beginning of what we hope will become a steady stream of vital funding from YOU, our club members, to those carefully selected projects. Thanks SO MUCH for those once-off donations and monthly pledges – no matter how modest. We forward the entire amount received from you to the projects, the only deductions being bank/platform fees. This is only the beginning, ladies and gents – please support us in our mission to increase our combined positive impact on the ground – in Africa. Join the club to contribute via constructive discussions, donate to projects, and go on safari at carefully selected camps & lodges.
These past few weeks, your teamAG has been green with ENVY at the daily updates from our safari guru Christian Boix as he trawled Tsavo and Amboseli in Kenya for super tuskers, predators, aardvarks and those amazing eye-level hippos in the crystal clear water of Mzima Springs – amongst other epic encounters. Christian is mostly desk-bound for his role as our safari director, but now and then, we set him free to host long-standing safari clients – a task he relishes. On this occasion, he accompanied regular safari client Roger Whittle. Roger has a LIFE LIST, and each year he ticks off a few more epic encounters with us. Be like Roger 😉
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor
Pleased to meet you, AG tribe. I’m your new editor.
A few weeks into this summer’s heavy rains in the South African Highveld, I witnessed a spectacle in the sleepy town of Heidelberg, Gauteng. Hundreds of ever-patient giant bullfrogs emerged in an unremarkable field alongside a cigarette factory after five years underground. Scientists don’t know how the bullfrogs know that a particular puddle will last the 24 days required for tadpole metamorphosis – yet when the rains come, they rise from slumber en masse, competing aggressively for breeding rights.
Not long after the spectacle, my own patience was rewarded. It feels surreal introducing myself to you as the new AG editor, as a long-time follower of the brand that has inspired my wanderlust, driven my intrigue for conservation, and affirmed my love for this wild continent.
Our three stories below will activate your own wanderlust – from Christian’s travels, to wild dogs, and our first epic selection of Photographer of the Year 2022 photos.
I can’t wait to lead you to rare experiences, inspire you to get your feet on the ground, and to celebrate Africa with you.
From our Scientific Editor
“It takes a village to raise a child” – a saying generally attributed to African origins. I’ve been trying to devise a suitable conservation equivalent because a similar theme applies. The back-breaking process of protecting a species (or wild space) is a collective one. Cooperation and knowledge-sharing are vital if we are to gain an overall perspective of the survival prospects of any one animal.
This is precisely the approach followed by the conservationists at the Painted Wolf Foundation. They have compiled a comprehensive review of the state of painted wolves across the continent and devised a plan to secure their future. Read all about it in our second story below.
Next week, Dianne Skinner of the Painted Wolf Foundation will be one of the many experts presenting their experiences in saving these charismatic carnivores. The African Wild Dogs United Virtual Conference will run from the 14th to the 18th of February, and the not-to-be-missed programme features the biggest names in painted wolf conservation. For more information on how to purchase tickets, have a look at this post on our club forum.
CEO’s choice: SPECIAL OFFER – A small window has opened to enjoy a 6-day fully catered mobile safari to Moremi and Khwai in Botswana for the crazy price of US$2,215 per person sharing. This glamping safari runs in late April, and there are 4 spaces left at this price.
Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
We are open for entries from 1 February 2022 to midnight on 30 April 2022. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.
Wild dog populations are under threat – but there is hope for the future
Could African wild dog (painted wolf) populations double by 2050? A theory of change offered in a new report proposes it may be possible to save one of Africa’s most endangered carnivores – through collaboration, recovering former territory and improved funding. These athletic predators have suffered centuries of persecution, and the space available to them is ever-shrinking. How are wild dogs faring across Africa, and what can be done to secure their future? Conservationists and scientists from the Painted Wolf Foundation have compiled a comprehensive assessment of the state of painted wolf conservation – from population estimates to conservation strategies – and hypothesise that numbers could double in the best-case scenario.
The method
Executive director of the Painted Wolf Foundation Diane Skinner identified and approached 37 individuals from 28 organisations operating in 12 African countries. Where possible, the organisations selected are directly involved in monitoring and conserving painted wolves or are responsible for managing protected areas within their range. Collectively, these organisations cover over 800,000km2 (80 million hectares) of painted wolf habitat – home to at least 4,500 wild dogs.
The 145-page report – Securing the Future of the Painted Wolf – looks into the broader conservation landscape of painted wolves, and includes a breakdown by country.
Habitat loss and fragmentation is a major threat to painted wolf populations
The findings
Painted Wolf Foundation has estimated the current population numbers as below, providing an anecdotal snapshot in time. These numbers and the direction of change reflect those taken during 2020, at the time of consultation.
The largest populations of painted wolves of the areas surveyed occurred in:
Luengue-Luiana National Park (Angola): ±600
Northern Botswana: 700–800
Niassa Special Reserve (Mozambique): 300–350
The Kruger Ecosystem (South Africa): 250–400
The Ruaha Landscape (Tanzania): ±500
The Luangwa Valley Ecosystem (Zambia): ±300
The Zambezi Valley (Zimbabwe): ±250
[Editorial note: at the time of research, detailed information about the population in the Selous/Nyerere Ecosystem (Tanzania) was not available. However, assessments from 2012 suggested this region was home to one of the largest populations of painted wolves in Africa at the time.]
Populations are believed to be increasing in:
Aire de Conservation de Chinko (Central African Republic)
Private reserves in South Africa as part of the Wild Dog Range Expansion Project
The Serengeti Ecosystem (Tanzania)
Luangwa Valley Ecosystem (Zambia)
Populations are believed to be decreasing in:
Okamatapati and Otjituuo Conservancies (Namibia)
Greater Kafue Ecosystem (Zambia)
The remaining populations are either stable, or their status is unknown (but likely decreasing in many of the regions surveyed).
Current reported status of painted wolf populations across Africa
The threats
The report identifies the major threats facing wild dogs across Africa. Naturally, these are region-specific (take, for example, this case of a declining dynasty in Mana Pools), and certain threats may be more significant than others. However, a common theme is habitat loss and fragmentation – one of the greatest threats to wildlife in Africa. This is particularly true in the case of the painted wolf, which is a wide-ranging species that occurs at low population densities. In South Africa, for example, painted wolves once roamed the entire country but are now restricted to just a fraction of their historic range (a comparative map of former and present ranges can be found here).
Painted wolves are also victims of the illegal bushmeat trade, as snares and gin traps intended for antelope are indiscriminate. Outbreaks of diseases such as distemper or rabies, carried by domestic dogs, can wipe out entire packs. Road accidents are also common causes of wild dog mortalities in some areas. Conflict with farmers occurs throughout the painted wolf range, even though their reputation as mass livestock killers far exceeds their actual impact.
All of the above threats are exacerbated by the fact that wild dogs struggle to persist with high densities of competing predators like lions and spotted hyenas. As most of Africa’s wildlife is now concentrated in protected areas, painted wolves are forced to exist on the periphery of these regions, increasing their chances of encountering anthropogenic threats.
Attending to a snare victim
African wild dog conservation gaps
While celebrating the impressive efforts of various conservation initiatives working to protect wild dogs, the report shows that, when looking at the species as a whole, the best that can be said is their numbers are somewhat stable. In many areas across their range, numbers are decreasing, while in others, there are yawning gaps in knowledge about numbers, status, and movements. The threats facing this charismatic species are not dissipating and will become more severe as the human population burgeons, exacerbating habitat loss.
So how to shift the paradigm from individually treading water to safely increasing painted wolf rangelands and supporting the species across the continent? The report’s authors first pinpointed the conservation gaps – where tried and tested conservation measures are not deployed due to a lack of funding, knowledge, or expertise. These include macro issues such as a lack of effective habitat management and comprehensive community engagement and education. Filling these gaps would help create protected landscapes where all wildlife, including painted dogs, can thrive.
However, conservation of painted wolves requires species-specific interventions to address the micro issues, such as the management of disease outbreaks or denning behaviour close to hostile communities. In many areas, the organisations attempting to protect painted wolves lack technical resources or funding (or both). In others, there are no organisations specifically directing their attention to wild dog conservation. Even though there are existing conservation methods that have proved highly effective, there are few mechanisms whereby nascent organisations learn these methods or benefit from the experiences of others.
Education is key to protecting painted wolves and improving conservation efforts
Embedded constraints
In addition to identifying conservation gaps, the report also points to constraints within painted wolf conservation initiatives. These include the image and perception of painted wolves (as vermin, feral dogs), the need for a unifying global voice, and strategic collaboration to share day-to-day challenges and solutions for shared learning.
The most significant constraint is, unsurprisingly, funding and fundraising. The Painted Wolf Foundation report roughly estimates that painted wolves across the entire continent receive US$2.5 million in conservation funding each year. To put this into perspective, South Africa’s state organisations alone may spend upwards of US$80 million annually to protect the country’s rhinos. Their poor image perception and lack of conspicuous crises (such as poaching) render painted wolves’ fundraising appeal narrow. For smaller organisations with limited personnel, the fundraising burden is enormous.
A theory of change
With these gaps and constraints in mind, the Painted Wolf Foundation partnered with the Wildlife Conservation Network to conceive a “theory of change”. This three-pronged approach was developed with the goal of doubling the number of wild dogs in Africa by 2050. The three strategies are:
Improve and support existing painted wolf conservation through increased funding and shared best practices.
Recover former territory where painted wolf populations have been eradicated so they can naturally recolonise or be sustainably reintroduced. This would benefit not just painted wolves but also work to ensure a more secure future for other wildlife.
Encourage, fund and support collaborations between painted wolf conservationists and other entities. Improving communication and collaboration between organisations is essential for the future of painted wolves but comes at an inevitable cost.
With these measures in mind, the Painted Wolf Foundation and Wildlife Conservation Network (WCN) are actively fundraising with the ambition to create the Painted Wolf Fund. This will be run on the same lines as the WCN’s successful Lion Recovery Fund and Elephant Crisis Fund.
How to help the wild dog
The report produced by the Painted Wolf Foundation is one of the most comprehensive and up-to-date assessments of painted wolf conservation ever published. It reads not as a criticism of current conservation initiatives but as a celebration of the valiant efforts of dedicated individuals and organisations. However, the threats facing painted wolves will only increase. It will take a monumental feat of collaboration to change the trajectory to ensure they survive and thrive. This analysis provides a fundamental starting point for this process.
Access the report: Securing the Future of the Painted Wolf. Skinner, D., Dyer, N., Blinston, P., Thomson, P., Lindsey, Dr P., Hofmeyr, M. (2021). Painted Wolf Foundation, Wildlife Conservation Network.
Painted Wolf Foundation’s Diane Skinner will be presenting a special session (Securing the future of the painted wolf: a strategy for transforming the trajectory of Lycaon pictus), at the African Wild Dogs United virtual conference on Tuesday 15 February. To find out more and to register for the event, click here.
For more information on the report, or on the Painted Wolf Foundation, email info@paintedwolf.org.
They are the fabric of legend, and not even the simmering anticipation from days of searching can prepare seekers for the moment of finally finding one. They are the super tuskers of Africa – the last rare relics of an era long forgotten. But coming face to face with a super tusker is not always a guarantee – although it is always a highlight for even the most seasoned traveller.
Our very own safari director Christian Boix and safari client Roger Whittle recently set off on an odyssey to Amboseli and Tsavo East National Parks – known for their impressive herds of elephants – in the hopes of photographing the tuskers. Through dogged determination, they finally found what they were looking for.
Roger captures his first image of old super tusker Craig, a legend of Amboseli
Home to giants
Tsavo has the last notable population of big tuskers in the whole of Africa. Once a common sight, roaming far and wide across East, Central and Southern Africa, big tuskers have almost been wiped off the African continent – a combined result of trophy hunting, large-scale exploitation of ivory in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, and devastating poaching.
But thankfully, the last remaining tuskers are given their best chance for survival in Tsavo, where elephants are closely monitored for protection against poaching and injury. The Tsavo Trust’s Big Tusker Project, in collaboration with Kenya Wildlife Services, provides aerial and ground support to collect data and respond to imminent threats to the living legends. This ongoing presence is a significant deterrent to poachers and other illegal activity.
Today, nine giant bull tuskers remain in Tsavo. There are also 27 emerging tuskers and four iconic cow tuskers on the Tsavo Trust and KWS Tusker database – which is why visitors have the best chance of seeing some of Africa’s biggest tuskers there.
Stained red by the rich soils of the Amboseli-Tsavo ecosystem, the living legends make for a striking image against the towering backdrop of Mount Kilimanjaro – attracting photographers from across the globe.
Super tusker KM2 was sighted near Satao Camp in Tsavo East
Spotting a super tusker
Finding the super tuskers does not always come easily, and it always helps to be accompanied by more experienced seekers. It was only after a few days of searching and with a dash of luck that Christian and Roger were successful. “We found them through dogged determination. We followed up on all the latest sightings and other leads. We gambled on where we thought their feeding habits might lead them. And after days of seeking bull groups, searching from morning until evening, we finally found what we were looking for.”
(From top) Ulysses – survivor of a spear wound and old boy of Amboseli; Christian even captured a selfie with Craig; Tsavo is known for its mud-stained elephants; Christian and Roger could not believe the luck of sighting three super tuskers on one safari trip; the giants of Amboseli march on
The party had the privilege of meeting three super tuskers on their journey. Craig, a 50-year-old gentle giant of Amboseli, is a well-loved favourite in the area. Ulysses, also one of the larger super tuskers of Amboseli, once survived a deep spear wound that was treated by vets – and was, therefore, a remarkable sighting for the duo. The party then spotted super tusker MK2 in Tsavo East.
“Craig was surrounded by an entourage of well-aged bulls. They all stuck around and stayed alert – though not fearful – when they noticed us. Each elephant took turns to sniff and check on the old man,” says Christian. And they weren’t the only ones tailing Craig. “KWS scouts were in attendance – they have a tough job keeping tabs on the safe whereabouts of each Tusker in the area.”
A herd grazes in the grasses of Amboseli
While the specific locations of super tuskers are always kept under wraps, Christian says seekers will “do well to visit Satao Elerai in Amboseli and Satao Camp in Tsavo East, which serve as excellent bases from which to find the legends”. Here, visitors can spend much time on safari with knowledgeable guides who have worked in the area for years. Satao Elerai also offers night game drives in the conservancy, which not all lodges in the area do.
And what to do after finally snapping a legend? “Book our next trip!” says Christian. “Roger could not get enough of my almost fanatical obsession to track down a target!”
Want to go on an African safari to seek super tuskers? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.
Resources
Christian and Roger visited Satao Elerai and Satao Camp as their bases for searching for the super tuskers.
You can also join us as we walk with the giants of Tsavo East on a 13-day adventure, where we follow elephant herds over an 80km walking route along the Galana River.
Come on safari with AG – it will change your perspective on life.
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Start your engines + great elephant news + best safari time of day?
It’s THAT time of year again. Entries are now open for our annual celebration of Africa’s amazingness, and we have already seen epic images arriving in the inbox. Our Photographer of the Year again offers cash prizes of US$10,000 and a fabulous safari to Botswana. My heart sings, and all of us at teamAG look forward to three months of eye candy followed by a tough month of judging. We will begin sharing weekly selections soon. Start your engines, ladies and gents – details here.
THANKS SO MUCH for the massive support for my rant last Friday about online retailer Takealot offering gin traps for sale to Joe Public. To cut a long story short, they have apologised and ‘delisted’ the gin trap. My decision to withdraw our accounts with them (personal and AG business) stands firm – their apology lacked sincerity, and the lack of a named human being in the process was telling. Your avalanche of social media and email pressure on Takealot worked well – you are my heroes 🙂
GREAT NEWS in our second story below – about forest elephants. Scroll down and tap to find out the details! Our first story below is often hotly debated by safari experts and passionistas. SO, what is your favourite time of the safari day? Those photos get my safari juices flowing.
BY THE WAY, a (reliable) source tells me that only 6 rhino horns have been recovered from the estimated 900 horns (450 rhinos) poached last year. That proportion – 0,7% – provides perspective on how ineffective the world’s governments and agencies are at policing illegal trafficking …
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Scientific Editor
Giraffe are a source of endless fascination for anatomists, physiologists and those who work to unravel the inner workings of the mammalian body. Within their lanky frames, many adaptations work to counteract the physics challenges posed by a neck that reaches a lofty height of six metres. Blood pressure aside, a giraffe’s neck weighs roughly a third of its body mass, and the massive nuchal ligament that effortlessly holds the head upright is a marvel of evolution. And, as if the neck weren’t complex enough, our ‘did you know’ fact of the week below explains how giraffe are capable of extraordinary cervical contortions.
Of course, for our Photographer of the Year entrants, these fascinating facts are largely overshadowed by the sheer photogenic nature of these iconic animals. Will it be the giraffe’s turn to shine during this year’s competition? Only time will tell, but I can tell you that everyone at team AG is profoundly excited!
• At last there are strong signs that we are all learning to live with Covid, and that the safari industry is slowly climbing out of the doldrums of the last two years. Many countries are now significantly reducing Covid requirements – making it easier to travel to Africa. Among many examples of the impact of fewer restrictions, United Airlines has reported massive increases in bookings for their direct flights from the US to South Africa.
• FastJet has announced direct flights between Victoria Falls and Maun –Botswana’s bushveld frontier town – in their 50-seater Embraer ERJ145 aircraft. This route was previously only available by private charter.
• Can you feel the sand between your toes and that cold G&T in your hand? Enjoy the beach and bush vibes in this relaxing video from Thonga Beach Lodge. Did you know that you can enjoy significant booking discounts for this and many other African camps & lodges in our travel & conservation club?
DID YOU KNOW:Neck ache? The joints between giraffe neck vertebrae are ball-and-socket joints – just like a human shoulder. The head is held upright by an extremely strong nuchal ligament.
Picture it: you’ve arrived on safari, only to be greeted by a plethora of options (and wildlife) to keep you entertained for the duration of your stay at the lodge. Between meals, spa treatments and the obligatory gin and tonic by the pool, deciding how to spend your hours might turn out to be a challenge (it’s a tough life, we know…) So, what if you want to skip a drive? Have a look at our guide to the highs and lows, and decide how best to spend your safari time.
Morning
This is hands down the Africa Geographic team’s favourite part of the day. Ask any guide for their best time to be out in the bush, and nine times out of ten, they will say the morning, which should tell you all you need to know. If there is one game drive you should not skip, it’s this one.
Most of us wake with a standard routine ahead of us, and surprises are limited to mundanities such as the milk going off. Not so on safari. Nothing can top that pre-dawn feeling of a new day: the muzzy haze of an early start chased away by strong coffee, cool air and the excitement of not knowing what lies ahead. The nocturnal animals are still on the move, leaving their tracks in the sands of the morning bush newspaper, while diurnal animals stir to take advantage of the lower temperatures. For similar reasons, morning is also the best time to set off on foot.
No matter where you are in Africa, the sunrise is guaranteed to be spectacular (barring cloudy days). Dawn is a feast for the senses – smells are enhanced, sounds carry further, and the soft light makes for perfect photographs.
Sleep in and you may miss a magical sunrise
Midday
By midday, most game drives have deposited their guests back at the lodge to eat, drink, be merry or collapse during the hottest part of the day. Generally, midday is not the best safari time, especially in summer. All self-respecting wildlife retreats to the shade for a siesta (or to ruminate), and the high sun detracts from photographic opportunities.
But this is the wild, and there is always a caveat. This is a great time to check out the local waterholes in search of snorkelling elephants or to watch a wallowing rhino blowing bubbles in the mud. Wild animals are unpredictable (“they don’t read the books”, someone is bound to say), and there is always the chance of an unanticipated sighting made all the more special by having it to yourself. Cheetahs and leopards may decide to hunt in the middle of the day, when competition with lions and spotted hyenas is less likely.
There can still be action in the middle of the day
Afternoon
As the day starts to wane, the animals revive, and the bush shakes off its scorched languor. Even in winter, the starting afternoon temperatures are likely to be warm – but don’t trust anyone who says it doesn’t get cold in Africa. It does. Take a jacket – you’ll thank us as the sun goes down.
And speaking of sunsets, Africa’s are hard to beat. No matter where you find yourself, the array of reds, oranges and pinks is bound to entrance (and make pretty photos!) For those on the hunt for more unusual sightings of nocturnal beasties like aardvarks or pangolins – these are more likely to emerge early on a winter’s afternoon. Though dependent on luck, it’s a joy to see these rare creatures in daylight.
At sunset, the wilderness comes alive
Under the stars
Night safaris are something of a mixed safari time. Yes, the big predators are likely on the move, and it does offer the chance to see nocturnal animals. However, the likelihood is sightings will be fleeting and sometimes chaotic if your guide attempts to follow them off-road while also trying not to throw you off the vehicle. Guides also need to be aware of their ethical obligations with spotlights, particularly during a hunt, so you will likely miss the real action.
Nevertheless, night drives can be rewarding for those on the lookout for smaller critters like chameleons, civets or bushbabies. The most enjoyable aspects of a night in the bush are the sounds (roaring, whooping and the like) and the stars stretching overhead. It is important to note that few national parks allow night drives, and guests looking to enjoy one should be sure to book at a private conservancy or reserve that offers these.
A star safari
FOMO
All in all, the morning game drive is probably the most consistently rewarding safari time. Of course, a holiday in the bush is meant to be relaxing and if you want to skip a drive to have a massage and watch elephants drink at the lodge waterhole, do so! Just be aware that Murphy has a sense of humour, and there is always a chance your crew will return with a triumphant “you’ll never guess what we saw!”
Want to go on safari? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.
Sometimes staying in camp is a great safari option
The good news is that there are more forest elephants in Gabon than previously believed. A new study from the Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS), Gabon’s National Park Agency (ANPN) and Vulcan offers the first countrywide elephant population estimate in nearly thirty years.
Forest elephants were only recently formally recognised as a separate species by the IUCN and were immediately classified as “Critically Endangered”. This new research estimates that there are around 95,000 in Gabon, which equates to roughly 60-70% of the total global population. Astonishingly, although forest elephant numbers have been in freefall for the last century, Gabon appears to have bucked the trend, and forest elephants are believed to be present across some 90% of this Central African country.
Unlike savanna elephants, counting forest elephants from the air is almost impossible given their preference for dense forest habitat. Thus, scientists have had to search for new and inventive ways to replace aerial surveys as a method for estimating population size. One such method (used in the present study) involves collecting and analysing DNA using a genetic spatial capture-recapture model. Over three years, researchers collected 4,058 dung samples from across the country and set about identifying individual genetic signatures. Then, using complex statistical models, they used the data collected to approximate the average forest elephant densities in various regions and, by extension, calculate a population estimate.
Distribution map for forest elephants in Gabon
As might be expected, the highest densities were calculated in flat areas of preferred habitat with low levels of human pressure and interference (such as Loango National Park). Conversely, the lowest densities occurred in regions of low habitat suitability, such as those near major cities, along roads, and across the Bateke savanna.
The authors also caution that although the results of their study are primarily positive, this does not discount significant local declines that Gabon has experienced due to poaching surges in recent years.For example, in Minkébé National Park, a previous study estimated a loss of up to 81% of the forest elephants in just a single decade, from 2004 to 2014. These pockets of low elephant density have yet to recover.
Forest elephants were once widespread throughout the forests of Africa, with a population that would have numbered in the millions. Today, there are fewer than 200,000 (and likely significantly less). Most of these are found in Gabon, placing significant pressure on the country to ensure their safety and future. Protected areas constitute 22% of Gabon’s total area, meaning that the vast majority of the forest elephants exist outside these spaces. The authors estimate that some 65% of the country’s elephants occur in logging concessions. However, an accurate estimate of densities and populations is the vital first step in adaptive management strategy, which this study now provides.
As the authors conclude, “These results are of interest to local, national, and international decision-makers concerned with the conservation of this species and its habitat, with the important ecological role of forest elephants on climate regulation potential of forests, and with forest elephants as a useful indicator for healthy, intact and well-governed forests.”
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Gin trap, anyone?
WHAT TO DO when an online retailer you regularly utilise sells equipment to indiscriminately kill wild animals – and ignores requests to remove said product? Close your account. I did.
South Africa’s Takealot offers GIN TRAPS to Joe Public. Yes, those barbaric devices that maim and kill. Often the victim is in such agony that it chews off the trapped limb while bleeding out. Imagine stumbling upon this device while browsing the Takealot site for electronic devices, your favourite fudge and dog nail clippers.
After I was alerted to this product on Takealot, I spent more than a day trying to get beyond the vacuous call-centre minions (the head office number provided by them rings without reply) and wading through cut-and-paste evasive PR speak from their social media zombies. No luck. So I CLOSED our personal and Africa Geographic accounts. Note: Subsequent to the publishing of this Comment, Takealot delisted this product and offered an apology.
From a purely economic standpoint, they need to sell many gin traps to make up for the lost revenue from us. More importantly, what is quite clear to me is that brand Takealot has no MORAL compass.
Thanks to my network for the heads-up on social media. If enough of us go beyond frothing and posturing on social media, we can effect change. It’s up to us to make a difference – one brick at a time.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Scientific Editor
For our first story this week, dive into the green-hued magic of West Africa’s undiscovered paradise islands: São Tomé and Príncipe. Here forests filled with Galápagos-like evolutionary wonders tumble down mountains to meet the white sandy beaches below, and jungles reclaim abandoned plantations. The mixed bag of ecological marvels, delightfully decrepit towns, captivating history and epicurean indulgences create a sensory extravaganza that defines the São Tomé and Príncipe experience.
Next is the tale of a new and inventive way to bridge the human empathy gaps that exacerbate conflict and tear lives, tribes and countries apart. Read our second story below to learn more about how one company uses VR technology to immerse hostile tribal rivals in their antagonist’s worlds – hopefully bringing some semblance of peace along the way.
And finally, have you checked out our club forum recently? Have a look at this fascinating discussion posted by one of our club members on photographing local people and the dichotomy between the lives of those he has encountered on his travels.
• Hirola in the bag! Our maverick safari director Christian Boix is on safari in Kenya with club member Roger Whittle. Tsavo yielded an absolute gem of a sighting – the world’s most endangered antelope. Check out Christian’s photos and comments on this Facebook post.
• Our most spectacularphotographer-guided safari is back! New 2023 dates and prices are available for this cracker of an adventure in the Maasai Mara.
• This charming videoI AM FROM PRÍNCIPE will tug at your heartstrings and get you thinking about these West African islands for your detox getaway …
DID YOU KNOW: BABY HEDGEHOGS are called hoglets. Their quills are covered by a thin layer of fluid-filled skin to protect their mother during birth, but these spikes will generally emerge within a few hours
São Tomé and Príncipe are amongst Africa’s best-kept tourism secrets – two bijou volcanic islands off the west coast of the continent, brimming with ecological marvels, stunning biodiversity, captivating history, and warm, welcoming inhabitants. Imagine an island paradise where azure waters lap at the shores of deserted beaches beneath waving palm fronds. A land where thick rainforests filled with Galápagos-like evolutionary wonders tumble their way down volcanic precipices to the rocky coastline below, and the jungle has reclaimed the once widespread colonial plantations. It is a place where time has, by all appearances, stood still.
São Tomé and Príncipe
The two jungle-choked islands are about 140km apart, over 200km off the coast of Gabon in the Atlantic Ocean in the Gulf of Guinea. Together, they are Africa’s second smallest country (both in terms of population and size) after Seychelles. Along with the neighbouring islands of Bioko and Annobón, São Tomé and Príncipe owe their existence to volcanic activity as shifting tectonics formed the Cameroon Line of volcanoes and forced part of the seabed upwards over 30 million years ago. The resultant topography is dramatic. This is no land of gentle, undulating hills – instead, sharp peaks dominate the skyline, and streams radiate down the mountains into the plunging valleys below.
The resultant rich volcanic soils, equatorial climate, and monsoon rainfall levels set the stage for a staggeringly diverse range of plant life. Verdant forests cover most of the islands, ranging from lowland forests around the coastlines to the mysterious cloud forests 1,400 metres and more above sea level. As the two islands have always been separate from the African continent, endemism is high with many plant and wildlife species found nowhere else on earth. Though the islands are small, naturalists exploring São Tomé and Príncipe receive a backstage pass to evolution’s theatre – hence the islands are sometimes referred to as Africa’s answer to the Galápagos (which may, in fact, be underestimating their biodiversity importance).
São Tomé and Príncipe were (by all accounts) uninhabited by people before the arrival of Portuguese explorers in the 15th century. As the islands were gradually colonised and settled, their convenient position created an important stop-over point. The islands, particularly larger São Tomé, rapidly evolved into a major commercial and trade centre for the Atlantic slave trade. At the same time, the bountiful soils and wet climate (and the availability of free, forced labour) made the islands ideal for agriculture – predominantly sugar cane. As competition from other global sugar markets grew, the islands’ farming activities gradually transitioned to coffee and cacao, eventually becoming the world’s largest cocoa producer at the turn of the 20th century. With independence in 1975, the plantations were nationalised. Many fell into a state of disrepair and were abandoned, leaving behind a snapshot of history frozen in time. (Read on for more on these plantations – termed roças.)
A view of the Atlantic Ocean on a sunny day on São Tomé
São Tomé
At 859km², around 50km long and 30km wide, São Tomé is the larger of the two islands and the more populous by far (though everything is, of course, relative). The delightfully decrepit capital of the eponymously named São Tomé city lies in the island’s north-eastern corner: colourful, vibrant, and bearing Portugal’s colonial thumbprint. Here visitors can visit the tiny, cream-coloured 16th-century fort of São Sebastiãn and accompanying museum or the Nossa Senhora da Graça (“Our Lady of Grace” – one of the oldest cathedrals in sub-Saharan Africa) to soak in the region’s history. Alternatively, a trip through the streets past lively vendors will offer the chance to enjoy some local cuisine (fish, perhaps, with some breadfruit and cooked banana – a staple dish). The markets present the opportunity to purchase crafts and meet the local São Toméans/ Santomeans (or even spot the president wandering by in flip flops).
Pico Cão Grande bathed in cloud
Away from the city, much of São Tomé is protected by the Obô National Park, which extends to include much of Príncipe as well. In the central part of the park lies one of São Tomé’s most famous landmarks: Pico Cão Grande or the “Great Canine/Great Dog Peak”. This bizarre topographical feature stands out for miles – a tooth-like volcanic plug that rises over 370 metres above the surrounding terrain. Pico Cão Grande is the most dramatic of the many volcanic plugs, necks and outcrops on both islands, composed of a rare type of extrusive volcanic rock known as phonolite. Due to the slippery moss-covered vertical cliff faces, unpredictable fogs and unexpected deluges, few have successfully navigated the climb to the top of Pico Cão Grande.
This section of Obô National Park is also home to Pico de São Tomé, the country’s highest peak at 2,024 metres above sea level. The upper slopes are covered in primary forest, the trees swathed in decorative layers of lichen and sporting a multitude of different orchids and other epiphytic species. Unlike Pico Cão Grande, summiting Pico de São Tomé can be attempted by hikers, though a sturdy pair of boots is essential.
Príncipe Agulhas
Príncipe
Around 140 km north-east of São Tomé (a 30-minute flight away) lies the remote wonderland of Príncipe. The tiny island covers an area of 136km², including the surrounding forest-clad islets. The population numbers just under 7,000 people, most of whom reside in Santo António (the only town). In today’s world, Príncipe is the closest thing to an untouched paradise any traveller could ever hope to explore.
The entire island has been designated the UNESCO Island of Príncipe Biosphere Reserve, and the lush forests are crisscrossed by weaving trails leading to picturesque waterfalls. These verdant surroundings (together with São Tomé) are home to more endemic species per square kilometre than anywhere else on earth. Along the edges of the island and islets are the kind of beaches that are almost too perfect to be true – deserted, fringed by palms providing ample shade and warm azure waves lapping at the sand. Many of the lodges in the area sport a private beach, complete with snorkelling and canoe activities (and the odd beach bar).
The “Lost World” atmosphere of Príncipe is only accentuated by the “abandoned” plantations. Historically, these roças (also found on São Tomé) were self-contained, self-sufficient worlds ruled over by colonial households. The more extensive estates would have employed over a thousand people who lived within the roça “villages” with their own churches and hospitals. Today, most colonial mansions have been closed off or converted to luxury accommodation. However, local people still live in many of the roça villages, leading an almost entirely subsistence-based lifestyle. As the vegetation slowly reclaims the crumbling infrastructure, the result is a poignant insight into time gone past.
Astonishingly, Príncipe once found itself at the cutting edge of physics research when Arthur Eddington set out for a perfect position to observe the effects of gravity on light during a solar eclipse. This he found at Roça Sundy when he observed that the light from stars was bent by the sun’s gravity, confirming a significant aspect of Albert Einstein’s General Theory of Relativity.
Traditional Santomean sea canoes
Evolutionary islands
Since Darwin’s initial forays into the natural wonders of the Galapagos Islands, biologists have seen islands as evolutionary goldmines. The idea is that the smallest and most isolated islands will demonstrate the most dramatic examples of adaptation. São Tomé and Príncipe, having never been part of the mainland, are the perfect example of this principle in action – the endemism levels of these tiny islands are simply astonishing. To this day, new species of both fauna and flora are regularly discovered, many endemic to either one or the other island. The mammal contingent is almost entirely represented by bats and one terrestrial mammal: the São Tomé shrew.
The beaches are popular nest sites for four different species of endangered turtles. Female olive ridley, green, hawksbill and leatherback turtles begin to arrive in November to nest, and the hatchlings launch their perilous journey back to the ocean in March.
Of particular interest to biologists are the seven amphibian species. Amphibians are intolerant of saltwater, so how the six frog species and the worm-like “cobra boba” (Schistometopum thomense) found their way there is a matter for considerable debate…
Clockwise from top left: white-tailed tropicbird; Principe kingfisher; São Tomé oriole; São Tomé speirops; São Tomé prinia; Príncipe golden weaver
Birds of a different feather
Like Darwin’s finches, the birds of São Tomé and Príncipe are intriguing. It is almost impossible to give a precise number of endemics on offer, simply because different sources recognise diverse species/sub-species distinctions, and research continues. Whatever the total, it is clear that the birding on offer in São Tomé and Príncipe is extraordinary, and enthusiasts are guaranteed to tick off several species found nowhere else. Only in São Tomé and Príncipe can birders experience the thrill of standing in the gloom of the forest and looking up to see the incongruous shape of a tropicbird against the leafy backdrop of the canopy.
One aspect that makes the birdlife even more fascinating is the high levels of dwarfism and gigantism. This is a pattern seen in islands worldwide, where species of small families evolve to be bigger (likely in the absence of competition) and big species get smaller (perhaps due to lack of available space). Thus, the São Tomé and Príncipe birds include the giant weaver and giant sunbird (the world’s largest members of the two families). The mysterious São Tomé Grosbeak is the largest member of the canary family and was only rediscovered in 1991 after a century’s absence. On the opposite side of the spectrum is the critically endangered dwarf olive ibis. On the isolated island, the São Tomé oriole has lost much of its yellow pigmentation, providing vital clues about the role of colour and competition in birds.
A typical checklist of some of the birding specials on display would include the Dohrn’s thrush-babbler, São Tomé short-tail, several species of white-eyes, the São Tomé prinia, São Tomé fiscal shrike, maroon pigeon, Príncipe thrush, São Tomé lemon dove, São Tomé olive pigeon, Príncipe kingfisher, Príncipe glossy starling, Príncipe sunbird, velvet-mantled drongo and adorable São Tomé scops owl. Timneh parrots soar past in small but noisy flocks, and some of the marine birds include white-tailed tropicbirds, sooty terns and brown and black noddies.
Clockwise from top left: heading out into the ocean on a traditional canoe; yoga on the beach at Sundy Praia; waiting for a boat; flying between the islands
Explore and stay
Want to go on safari to São Tomé and Príncipe? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.
A popular phrase amongst the locals of São Tomé and Príncipe is “leve leve” – the Santomean equivalent of “easy does it”. It perfectly encompasses the laidback atmosphere of this down-to-earth country where life moves at a simpler, more human pace. Yet for all that, the two islands offer the perfect escape from worldly stresses, the plethora of activities on offer do not allow for a dull moment. From exploring underwater caves and snorkelling past bright fishes to hiking along forgotten paths in thick forests in search of feathered treasures, the purity of São Tomé and Príncipe’s natural world cannot fail to delight.
The two rainy seasons run from September to November and March until June, but the country receives high levels of rain all year round. The weather has to be taken with the same “leve leve” approach as the rest of the island. Though the risk is slight in the more remote parts of the islands, it is important to take malaria precautions. There are budget “pensão” accommodation options in the larger cities and villages, but it is at the more upmarket lodges that the true magic of the islands can be fully embraced.
Clockwise from top left: Coins from the Portuguese colonial era; craft sales on São Tomé; street scene in São Tomé
For those looking to indulge their inner Epicurean, the culinary delights are never-ending. Visitors can sample what is arguably the best chocolate in the world – dark, rich and pure and made onsite at the cacao plantations. At the world-famous Claudio Corallo Cacao and Coffee, chocolate-lovers can spoil their tastebuds with any combination of 80% dark chocolate and candied ginger/orange, salt or locally-sourced pepper.
With islands as isolated as they are, the ingredients for more substantial meals are almost all sourced from the land and combined in unusual and delectable ways. The fire and passion of Portuguese cooking are given their own local twist, creating a food experience that is both authentic and deeply flavoursome.
This mixed bag of cultural influences, fascinating and friendly local inhabitants, and the evocative history completes the sensory extravaganza that epitomises the São Tomé and Príncipe experience.
Fundação Príncipe is committed to the sustainable development of tourism on the islands of São Tomé and Príncipe. Learn about them in our private travel and conservation club – and please consider a DONATION to support their work (donating via our club is safe).
This is the inspirational story of how a virtual reality platform is being used to create peace amongst warring tribes in Uganda.
In the Karamoja region of northeast Uganda, residents have had to deal with violence for decades. Water and food shortages create tension between the different tribes and violence can flare up at any moment. Many lives, particularly those of warriors, have been lost by feuding tribes. For many of the antagonists, reconciliation seems impossible – so much suffering has been inflicted on all sides that the culture of revenge and animosity is almost impossible to change.
Two of the warring tribes include the Matheniko and the Tapac peoples, both subgroups of the famous Karamajong cattle pastoralists. Ariko is the leader of the Matheniko, Lomoromoe is from the Tapac. Both of the groups are semi-nomadic pastoralists in an arid area where growing crops is hard to impossible. Livestock, particularly cattle, are of paramount cultural and utilitarian importance to all the Karamajong.
Over the years, traditions of cattle rustling have developed with resultant feuds the origins of which no one can remember. Raids, counterraids and revenge killings are part of the local culture. Yet both the Metheniko and Tapac have very similar lifestyles and priorities. They live basic existences in homes created from branches and clay, they are dependent on cattle and they must survive in the same arid environment.
Bloodshed and cattle raiding has reduced in recent years but tensions and resentment still remain and threaten to spill over in violence at any moment.
Akiro and Lomoromoe helping with the making of the film ‘Meet the Soldier’
A meeting
What if Ariko and Lomoromoe could meet in a neutral, non-threatening space to learn about each other and forget the conflict for a moment? What if they could immerse themselves in each other’s lives? This is what Hack the Planet has facilitated using the latest techniques in the field of 360 / 3D video recordings.
Through the Meet the Soldier project, Akiro and Lomoromoe met each other in a 3D virtual space. They travelled virtually to each other’s villages and learned about the lives – challenges, hardships and cultures of their once mortal enemies.
Virtual Reality (VR) can be an effective tool in helping people relate to and develop empathy for others or unfamiliar situations. Many people view VR as something to do with the entertainment industry, few understand the power it has to change perspectives through experience. VR is experienced by the brain differently than other forms of media. Someone in a virtual environment is more capable of generating empathy for a person or situation because the brain is “fooled” into thinking it’s really experiencing the situation.
One year after the production of Meet the Soldier, a researcher from Sciences PO, a French research institute, wrote a paper investigating the project. The researcher spoke with many people involved, but one response from a local priest who knows both warriors very well was particularly illuminating.
“The two warriors are good friends now. The film has bonded them together. Every time I meet one, he inquires about the other. This is a good sign of friendship. These two warriors who had once been terrible enemies and raiders, who took pleasure in raiding and killing others; now they have abandoned the past and have become “new people”.
Hack the Planet hopes that this concept could be applicable to many other situations and conflicts in the world. What would happen if we could use the approach to bring together leaders of the world or people who live in countries at war? People who don’t have the opportunity to visit wilderness areas could be immersed in the natural world.
Tim van Deursen developed the concept of ‘Meet the Soldier’ at ‘Hack the Planet’; a technical non-profit he founded in 2016. The company works on innovative solutions to combat global and social challenges. Hack the Planet is part ofQ42 and has a complete arsenal of engineers at their disposal. Production and creation of the video were done by Wolfstreet and Teddy Cherim. Tim believes that VR is a powerful tool that could be used to bridge long-lasting conflicts; it provides a safe environment while at the same time the possibility to change perspectives. Follow Hack the planet on Twitter
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My country’s politicians regularly trumpet the success of their anti-poaching efforts – because fewer rhinos are being poached every year. You and I know that these announcements attempt to conceal the stark truth – that the Kruger National Park rhino population is in FREEFALL. Kruger hosts the world’s largest wild rhino population. Each year we have to dig deep to discover how many rhinos are left in Kruger. This year was no different. The results are shocking. Our first story below refers.
Our second story touches on a vital issue if future generations are to see FREE-ROAMING wild animals in Africa. And our third story is another in our series on that wonderful Noah’s Ark of ENDEMIC species – Madagascar.
Finally, with a few weeks to go before we open the doors to entries for our Photographer of the Year, dust off those cameras and search through your archived images. The CASH and SAFARI prizes are again worth the effort.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Scientific Editor
While I was in the Kruger National Park a few weeks ago, I was granted a brief glimpse into the inner workings of the giant machine that is South Africa’s largest national park. Sufficeth to say, the people I encountered who keep this machine oiled and running were knowledgeable, candid and tremendously passionate. Their love – yes love – for the Kruger and its wildlife was palpable.
So now it’s that time of year when we delve into Kruger’s rhino population stats. And it is not looking good.
Putting together these updates is always a somewhat heart-wrenching experience for the AG team, even if the numbers come as no real surprise. So I can only imagine what it must be like for those responsible for counting, monitoring, and protecting Kruger’s rhinos to have to watch this catastrophe unfolding in real-time.
For decades, the Kruger has been a stronghold for rhinos, supporting one of the largest populations in the world. Yet it was the very nature of Kruger’s previous rhino conservation success that made it the prime target for surging rhino poaching. Should we be asking what more could be done to protect our rhinos? Of course. But we should also remember to celebrate the efforts of those working all hours and risking life and limb to keep them safe. As SANParks officials recently wrote: “The lesson is not about who keeps rhinos safest. It is about what is the safest way to keep rhinos.”
• This classy video from Jamala Madikwe in South Africa’s North West province will have you packing your safari bags. First, though, visit our club for the best prices for this and other lodges and camps
• Did you know that you can now search for flights on Google based on lower carbon emissions?
• Stay updated with the latest Covid rules and travel logistics per country here
Rhino populations in Kruger continue to plummet due to rhino poaching
Despite back-breaking work from a dedicated and passionate SANParks team, Kruger National Park rhino populations have continued to plummet due to rhino poaching – as per the latest population count from 2020.Recently published research estimates that there are about 2,607 white rhinos remaining in the Kruger National Park, while black rhinos are estimated to number just 202. This represents a population decline of 75% for white rhinos since 2011 (from 10,621) and 51% for black rhino since 2013 (from 415).
The research, compiled by SANParks officials, analyses the impact of COVID-19 on poaching rates compared to trends observed in previous years. In summary:
Population estimates in a massive area such as Kruger carry inherent uncertainty. Thus, white rhinos could number between 2,475 and 2,752, while black rhino populations could be as low as 172 or as high as 237. The estimates for this and previous years’ population numbers are the midpoint between the low and high numbers.
The actual black rhino population size may be higher due to their preference for dense habitat and tendency for surveys to underestimate their numbers.
These population estimates apply to the year 2020 – the process of actively counting the rhino (by air), analysing the data, and subjecting the results to scientific scrutiny takes time, and there is an inevitable lag period.
During the height of the COVID-19 government-imposed “hard” lockdown, there was a significant reduction in poaching: 79.4%
However, these benefits were lost as restrictions were lifted. “The easing of restriction resulted in a significantly higher number of observed poaching incidences per day during 2020 compared to that predicted for the same period by trends from 2017 to 2019. The result indicates that year-to-year poaching rates during 2020 were not significantly lower than those in previous years…” (Ferreira et al., 2021). This contradicts previous statements by the Department of Environment, Forestry and Fisheries, claiming that poaching incidents in Kruger reduced by half in the first half of 2020.
The recruitment rates (the number of calves born that survive the year) for both species were at their lowest since 2013.
PUBLICLY AVAILABLE RESOURCES
While the SANParks Annual Report for 2020/2021 is not yet accessible to the public, the most recent available figures were published in the African Journal of Wildlife Research and are publicly available through a paywall here.
This article was originally published on the Conservation Namibia website. Written by Ingelore Katjingisiua and Ginger Mauney
From the air, Namibia is a maze of paths – some start as wide animal highways and merge into a single track before trailing off into dust, while others are long and deep, etching a path that crosses rivers, borders and memory. The generational knowledge of where they lead and why they exist is known by a myriad of species from elephants to ants, and also the people who live alongside these wildlife corridors.
Animals use corridors for a variety of reasons: elephants traverse shorter paths between grazing lands and water, while using longer paths between their wet and dry season home ranges. Large carnivores also prefer to use well-worn paths while patrolling their territories. Knowing where wildlife corridors are in the landscape and what animal species use them is thus critical for planning human use for the land. Crops planted or livestock corralled too close to these paths are in danger of being destroyed, so it makes sense to identify key corridors and plan accordingly.
Taking wildlife corridors into account is especially important in Namibia’s Zambezi Region, which lies at the heart of the five-country Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA). It is home to people and wildlife that all use the same landscape. The Namibian Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism (MEFT) therefore recognises the importance of maintaining wildlife corridors as a means of reducing human-wildlife conflict and keeping wildlife populations healthy.
Communal conservancies in the Zambezi Region are ideally suited for identifying and maintaining wildlife corridors. Conservancies are local institutions that utilise the wildlife within their respective boundaries to create jobs, improve food security and support rural enterprises; they are also tasked with monitoring wildlife populations and addressing human-wildlife conflict in partnership with MEFT. Conservancies therefore feature strongly in a report on the strategic wildlife corridors in the Zambezi Region that was submitted to MEFT in March 2020.
Although maintaining wildlife corridors is highly valuable for the whole KAZA landscape and the larger wildlife economy, it comes at a cost for farmers who live in these areas and might want to use the land for farming purposes. Conservancies and other stakeholders must therefore identify key wildlife corridors in the Zambezi Region and come up with recommendations for incentivising the farmers who live along these corridors to leave them intact. One way of achieving that is through a Payment for Ecosystem Services (PES) scheme that links the status of wildlife corridors directly to the income of conservancies, which in turn is used for the benefit of communities living in these areas. From the communities’ point of view, this system means that a well-protected wildlife corridor equals improved living conditions.
Members of the Sobbe Conservancy who are at the forefront of wildlife corridor protection in the Zambezi Region
Namibia’s homegrown PES is called Wildlife Credits – an innovative conservation initiative that rewards conservancies for proactive, verifiable conservation results. Wildlife Credits payments go directly to the stewards on the ground for conservation results already achieved: e.g. corridors protected or rare animal species sighted. Traditional funding is used to cover expenses such as boots on the ground, vehicles and training, all of which are important components of conservation, but they do not always achieve conservation results. Paying for results through Wildlife Credits thus complements traditional funding and recognises conservancies for their contribution to conservation.
Using Wildlife Credits to help protect wildlife and its habitat isn’t hypothetical: there is ample proof that it works, from the proactive protection of lions in the Wuparo Conservancy to rhino sightings in the Huab. In 2018, Wildlife Credits was applied to the protection of a wildlife corridor for the first time, focusing on a key elephant corridor in the Zambezi Region. Distell Namibia and Amarula, the liquor that is synonymous with the African elephant, formed a partnership with Wildlife Credits and the Sobbe Conservancy. Distell invested N$ 130,000 into the national Wildlife Credits fund to pay the Sobbe Conservancy for successfully protecting the critical corridor that runs through its land.
This payment was based on independently verified data showing the continued protection of the corridor and evidence that wild animals continue to move through this area. The former was confirmed through satellite images captured over a ten-month period, while the latter was shown by photos from camera traps placed along the corridor. Together, this evidence reveals that the communities living in the Sobbe Conservancy avoid planting their crops or building any structures along the corridor, which allows wildlife to move freely.
The conservancy put the payments received through Wildlife Credits (which added to the funds from Distell) to good use by connecting villages in this remote part of Namibia to the electricity grid during 2019. Six villages received transformers and electric poles, five of which now have electricity (the infrastructure for the sixth is being installed at the time of writing). This project benefits 1,012 members of the conservancy and contributes to Goal 7 of the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs): affordable and modern energy for all.
Using new technology to monitor and protect an ancient wildlife corridor
Monitoring the wildlife corridor is an ongoing effort. In 2020, the conservancy introduced the SMART mobile application to capture data that complements the camera traps deployed in the corridor. Additionally, the Sobbe Conservancy increased foot patrols of the corridor from twice a month to once a week. The corridor functions as a transit highway for elephants moving between Angola, Zambia, Namibia and Botswana. They are part of the estimated 220,000 elephants in the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA), the largest elephant population left on the planet.
The corridor monitoring efforts have further revealed how many other species use this highway: African wild dogs, civets, bush pigs, roan antelope, side-striped jackals, zebras, giraffes and porcupines, among others. Images from the camera traps even had a surprise in store for Lise Hanssen, director of the Kwando Carnivore Project, who has worked with communities in the Zambezi Region since 2007 and is assisting the Sobbe Conservancy with this project: Although we expected [and found] five of Africa’s large carnivores using this important area [lion, leopard, cheetah, wild dog, spotted hyaena], we were amazed to find an image of a brown hyaena, which is now the northern-most confirmed record of this species.
It is only through long-term collaborative work with communities and long-term support from businesses like Distell Namibia and Amarula that these exciting discoveries are possible. They are more than just facts – they add significantly to the conservation imperative for KAZA as a whole and highlight the importance of this critical wildlife corridor for long-term conservation efforts. Further, these encouraging results boost the communities’ pride in their conservation achievements. This year (2021), Distell Namibia and Amarula have pledged to build on this success by renewing their partnership with the Sobbe Conservancy and Wildlife Credits and expanding their support to include two more vital wildlife corridors in the Zambezi Region.
Camera trap images reveal the surprising variety of rare and endangered species using the wildlife corridor in the Sobbe Conservancy
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It’s THAT time again! Well, almost …
On the 1st of February, we open for entries to our annual Photographer of the Year and again hope for envy-inducing images of Africa’s extraordinary biodiversity bounty. During the height of the dry season last year I spent an unforgettable week on safari with the 2021 winners and their partners in Botswana’s Khwai Private Reserve – predator central. Our first story below is a PHOTOGRAPHIC CELEBRATION of that sojourn.
Jamie has penned an excellent intro to our second story below. I will only add that this is arguably the BIGGEST ISSUE standing between viable free-roaming wildlife populations and intact ecosystems on the one hand and their annihilation on the other. Do we really want Africa to follow the example set by the rich nations, and turn our landscapes into parking lots and our wildlife into managed herds?
Start your engines, ladies and gents – get those epic photos ready because February is just around the corner. Fantastic cash and travel prizes await 🙂
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Scientific Editor
Do you ever find yourself reaching for a word in English (or any other language) to describe an everyday situation or emotion, only to find that there isn’t one? Sometimes, like with “Schadenfreude”, one language steps in where another fails. But other times, a little inventiveness is needed. Douglas Adams and John Lloyd created The Meaning of Liff – a “dictionary of things that there aren’t words for yet”. More recently, John Koenig began concocting the sombre Dictionary of Obscure Sorrows.
One of Koenig’s made-up words – occhiolism – jumped out at me: “n. the awareness of the smallness of your perspective, by which you couldn’t possibly draw any meaningful conclusions at all, about the world or the past or the complexities of culture”.
In my opinion, there is an unfortunate lack of occhiolism in the world on so many levels. However, in the context of this message, I am thinking of our second story in particular. Attempting to address human-wildlife conflict without involving local communities at every level is not only profoundly disrespectful, but it will also prove utterly fruitless. Read the story below on why it is so vital to take steps to understand the perspectives of those who live alongside wildlife rather than imparting our own assumptions.
Did you know that our travel & conservation club features 276 of Africa’s best lodges at which you can save up to 15% on the prices usually paid? And now you can search via a ‘map view’ (zoom in to select individual lodges), select for ‘non-malaria’ options and even change the quoted price currency? To access these features look out for relevant icons next to the search bar at the top of the screen. Join the club here.
Safari njema !
DID YOU KNOW: Honeybee queens can live for up to three years, and worker bees live for just 200 days in winter and less than 40 days in summer
Tongues lolling and bulbous tummies protruding shamelessly, the painted wolves took advantage of dappled shade in a mopane glade to grab a few moments of shut-eye in the heat of a September afternoon in Khwai, Botswana. We too bunkered down, enjoying this moment of relative coolness in a parched landscape heading into the legendary ‘suicide month’ of oppressive heat before the first rains transform the landscape. September is prime game-viewing time – don’t tell a soul.
This young male cheetah was besotted with elephant dung
This is painted wolf (wild dog) country, and we encountered this group of ten on several occasions as we meandered along the bush tracks and floodplains for six blissful days. We also enjoyed regular encounters with mating lions (which strolled through camp one morning), a mother cheetah and her adolescent cub and, of course, elephants. So many elephants. During one particularly memorable game drive, we spent hours with the ‘dogs’ (again with fat tummies and bloody faces) while the mother cheetah and her cub played about 300 meters away in full view. The cub had a thing for elephant dung, hunting down and attacking them with intent. We also found two skittish young cheetahs who were new to the area – perhaps passing through in search of their own territory.
Khwai is predator-central; every game drive delivered several encounters
This was our 2021 Photographer of the Year winning group
– with a few personnel adjustments due to Covid-related travel complications
We spent six days in the vast Khwai Private Reserve, sandwiched between Chobe National Park and Moremi Game Reserve, sharing a name with the neighbouring legendary Khwai Community Concession. Of course, we enjoyed many extraordinary moments in Khwai, as Africa did her thing – enthralling us with her bounty and guile. We also enjoyed fireside chats that will stay with me for a long time to come. Safari adventures tend to shed barriers and foster cultural exchanges that open our horizons and make us better people. This was an exceptionally rewarding safari for us all, and long-term friendships were forged.
Top left: Our guide ‘KG’ Bapute at Tuludi was very patient with his camera-toting guests. Top right: Sy Nawa, our guide at Sable Alley, poses next to a large lion who was chilling out in the lodge parking area. Bottom: Our party posing in the glow of the setting sun
Two encounters stood out for me and are deserving of special mention
We spent most of one day in a sunken photographic hide at a pumped waterhole near the Chobe boundary (unfenced, of course) and ogled as huge elephant bulls arrived in droves to quench their thirst and socialize with old acquaintances. Many fights broke out as thirsty elephants jostled for position – some more determined individuals driving opponents back many skiddy meters – to the tune of squeals, trumpets and clashing ivory. Sometimes all of the elephants would vacate the water in haste and stand some distance away as if ordered to do so. Then, sure enough, within seconds, a particularly large and dominant bull would swagger in and calmly have his fill of the precious water. The experience is pretty surreal, as these giants loom above us, providing views of bellies and the underside of those huge wrinkled feet as they pad by within touching distance. The impressive collection of big camera lenses lay untouched in the corner, entirely superfluous. We emerged from our underground hide in awe of these incredible giants and acutely aware that elephants have very complex social lives and can communicate over vast distances.
Our enthralling afternoon in a sunken hide near the Khwai / Chobe border
We were tracking a leopard during one game drive when we stumbled on a magnificent sight – probably my Moment of this safari. The Khwai River has many smaller channels and lagoons that were drying up at this time of year, leaving stranded fish and crustaceans. And working that bounty were thousands of birds – pelicans, herons, storks, ducks and fish eagles – taking turns to shepherd the fish to shallow areas for harvest. The energy of the moment was off-the-charts, and we spent a few hours entranced as this rolling mass of winged predators worked the shoals. (video) In the background, a fish eagle had burgled a massive catfish from a rather indignant marabou stork and was trying unsuccessfully to take off with his pilfered catch. Our return to camp found us again deep in thought about how nature works. And then, just as we thought the day could not get better, we were treated to a scrumptious lunch on a wooden platform overlooking the floodplains – in the cool shade of massive sausage trees.
A portion of the flock working shoals of stranded fish
Surprise bushveld lunch on an elevated deck in the shade of a sausage tree overlooking a floodplain
Our lodgings were superb
I had stayed at Sable Alley on a previous safari and knew to expect bushveld luxury, excellent service and delicious food. I was not disappointed. However, it was Tuludi that blew me away. This recently-built lodge has taken bushveld luxury to new levels, with enormous bedrooms and so many private spaces in the common area it feels as if the entire lodge is yours. My favourite area is a treehouse library above the lodge common area and overlooking the floodplains – a wonderful private space to put one’s feet up and enjoy a quiet alcoholic beverage. Or two. I will be back. Two of our group were so taken by Tuludi that they have booked their family for an extended stay in 2022, and of course, they will enjoy our club member preferential rates.
Want to go on safari to Khwai? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.
Human-wildlife conflict is present to some degree across most of rural Africa. It is one of the gravest threats facing wildlife conservation. For local human inhabitants, human-wildlife conflict endangers lives and livelihoods. Naturally, much research is devoted to mitigating its effects. Part of this includes expanding our knowledge base to understand how local people actually feel about wild animals without projecting emotions and thoughts onto the people who bear the brunt of the conflict.
New research (led by scientists from the Leibniz Institute for Zoo and Wildlife Research) from Tanzania’s Ngorongoro Conservation Area adds to this body of data, suggesting that emotions and cultural significance attached to wild carnivores strongly influence the acceptance of specific management strategies. Importantly, these factors exert a more decisive influence than the extent of livestock predation – at least within Maasai pastoralist communities.
Though mainstream media has been decidedly slow to recognise the importance of the local communities that live within and around wildlife spaces, these communities play a vital role in conservation. The future survival of most wildlife will depend on whether it can persist in shared landscapes with rural farmers and pastoralists. This, in turn, means that human-wildlife conflict is inevitable, and the methods employed to alleviate it must be based not just on the animals but on the needs of these communities as well. This cannot be judged effectively without a proper appreciation of the individual challenges facing the locals of a particular area.
Naturally, previous research has indicated that more severe livestock predation will result in an increased desire for (and support of) more forceful management strategies such as relocation or even killing the predators involved. However, studies have also shown that large carnivores, in particular, are of significant cultural importance. The positive emotions attached to these charismatic animals impact how the communities accept the cost of living with them. Logically, negative sentiments towards wild predators should favour strategies to remove the animal, while positive emotions should favour more conservation-orientated management strategies.
This new research is the first of its kind to directly compare livestock predation levels with the cultural importance of the wild carnivores to determine which factor is more influential and should, therefore, be prioritised by policymakers.
To better understand the perceptions of large carnivores in Ngorongoro, the researchers conducted a hundred questionnaires with Maasai pastoralists. They focussed on the three large carnivore species most likely to cause livestock losses – lions, leopards, and spotted hyenas – and presented three different management strategies: no action, relocation, and lethal control of the predators. The questionnaire also included questions about how many cattle, sheep, goats, and donkeys had been killed by wild carnivores.
The researchers found that 87% and 76% of the respondents felt joy towards lions and leopards, respectively. Unsurprisingly, the percentage was much lower for those who felt joy towards spotted hyenas (47%), and 72% of the respondents also found hyenas to be disgusting. However, the respondents were also significantly less afraid of hyenas (13%) than of lions (49%) and leopards (44%). Hyenas and leopards were seen as culturally unimportant overall, and while lions scored higher than both, only 41% of the respondents attached cultural significance to them. Hyenas accounted for the most livestock depredation in the area.
The majority of the Maasai pastoralists accepted “no action” as a management strategy for all three carnivores. Relocation and lethal control were mostly rejected (though 31% supported the relocation of hyenas, as opposed to 11% and 14% for lions and leopards). The results suggest that emotions (particularly joy) and cultural importance are “stronger predictors of the acceptance of management strategies than livestock depredation”. Interestingly, fear seemed to have no significant effect on the acceptance of the indicated management strategy.
So how does this help to direct management strategies in the future? This is a complex question, but one of the authors’ recommendations is to focus on positive emotions in education initiatives and outreach programmes, especially where hyenas are concerned. However, the scientists emphasise that whatever the efforts, they should only be done with “collaborative, enthusiastic involvement from the community side”.
Another interesting point raised in the final discussion of the study was the unexpectedly low cultural importance of lions. This may be due to intergenerational change and sedentarism, which has reduced spiritual or emotional contact with wildlife through the loss of traditional values and practices. The authors use the example of the traditional killing of lions in the symbolic coming-of-age ceremony, which has become a rarity in Maasai societies. While undoubtedly preferable for the lions, this may have reduced the importance of lions over time.
There is no question that livestock depredation remains an important aspect of human-predator conflict. Still, this study shows that it is not the only factor influencing how communities respond to conflict management strategies. Naturally, the results of this research are specific to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, but they do affirm just how influential positive emotions can be in human-wildlife conflict and emphasise the importance of understanding their effects.
As the first author, Arjun Dheer, explains in a blog post for the Hyena Project, “multi-pronged approaches that combine physiological and cultural factors with the close involvement of local communities can help pave the way for continued human-carnivore coexistence. Maybe scientists have been barking up the wrong tree with so much focus on livestock depredation!”
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SO. The rhino horn trade debate. If you are bored of the topic, perhaps this reality-check will help to recalibrate your context?
The world’s largest wild rhino population not far from where I live is being hammered by poachers; every day, helicopters clatter overhead as teams of rangers and vets scramble to and fro. The authorities at senior level have their HEADS IN THE SAND – those not involved in the poaching syndicates – while their ground crew put their lives on the line. Every day.
Our first story below sheds light on when poaching spiked and provides possible reasons. Some experienced conservationists quoted believe that we have no option but to permit trade in rhino horn. Others say no. Have your say – what is your view? For club members only.
Our second story below celebrates one of the best athletes in Africa, and our third provides a window into the most incredible place on earth for weird and ENDEMIC creatures that time forgot.
Lastly, the great RICHARD LEAKEY passed away this week. I first met this fossil-hunter turned politician and conservationist over a private dinner, more years ago than I care to remember. He spoke his mind, and in the process, made enemies – some of whom tried to kill him. He lost both legs in a plane crash where sabotage was suspected, yet he soldiered on. There are not many leaders of sound mind left who have not been tamed by keyboard warriors and cancel culture.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Scientific Editor
I am sitting writing this from the heart of the Kruger National Park. And it is glorious: midsummer and lush, the rains have been good and the bushveld is positively pulsing with life. Sure, the wildlife spotting is a little tricky, but the wonder of the Kruger lies in the anticipation, the vast space and the majesty of the scenery.
Though we failed in our mission (for now) to see one of only three wild white lions in the world, I was perfectly content to while away the time watching a herd of elephants. The cows were standing sentinel as the calves slept through the blistering heat of the day, determined to ignore the recalcitrant youngest member of the herd. Clearly bored with nap time, he scrambled all over his prone herd mates, trying desperately to provoke a game with little succe
ss. It was such a familiar scene for anyone that has spent time with human children. For me, at least, spending time in the bushveld and with animals is less about racing from sighting to sighting and more about absorbing the magic of what is unfolding in front of me. While I recognise that time is limited for many on safari, I can say that this approach has meant that I have never, ever been on a boring game drive. Africa always delivers; we just have to learn to let her do so in her own way.
With Covid travel restrictions dropping away, it’s time to consider your next safari 🙂
• Our Okavango Delta special offer is still available for a few more months – regrettably for African citizens and residents only
• Our Kenya special offer to the Maasai Mara and Samburu is a unique chance to savour Kenya’s top two safari destinations
• For other safaris ideascheck out our travel club lodges to find your ideal getaway and send us an enquiry – it’s a simple process. Prices in the club are lower than you will find elsewhere. Join the club here
DID YOU KNOW: The largest living turtle ever discovered? A leatherback that weighed 650kg – roughly the mass of a female buffalo
This time we adventure to eastern Madagascar, in our four-part series on this wondrous island. See the resources section at the end of this story for the other three stories in the series.
For the last 88 million years, life on Madagascar has been on its own – creating an island of evolutionary oddities and myriad diverse travel experiences. Sometimes referred to as a “Noah’s Ark” or the “eighth continent” due to its geographic isolation and high levels of endemism, the island of Madagascar is, simply put, enormous. It is approximately 587,000km2 (around two and a half times the size of the United Kingdom). A combination of ocean currents and dramatic topography has created a tapestry of different climates and habitats perfectly suited to the island’s peculiar inhabitants (or the other way round).
The island is home to over 300 recorded birds (60% of which are endemic) and 260 species of reptile – including two-thirds of the world’s chameleon species. There are over 110 species of lemurs spread throughout Madagascar’s protected areas, in a variety of shapes and sizes but all possessing a shared, wide-eyed charisma. Six of the world’s eight baobab species occur only in Madagascar. All in all, the natural history is unique, shaped by the fascinating and beautiful, isolated island habitats.
In an ideal world, a trip to Madagascar would extend over weeks to give the curious traveller every opportunity to explore the magnificent island. Realistically, however, time is usually limited and deciding where to invest one’s attention is guaranteed to create a significant traveller’s quandary. This four-part series is intended to help guide this decision.
Eastern Madagascar
Madagascar is an island divided, split just off-centre by an arched spine of mountains that runs from north to south. The arid highlands sit astride the central plateau to the west before gradually descending to the sea – a palette of browns and yellows decorating sharp scenery and thorny plants. The eastern part of the island could not be more different. Tropical rainforests, resplendent in green, are the dominant vegetation type. Although these forests cover just a fraction of their historic range due to human encroachment, this emerald corridor is home to an estimated 50% of Madagascar’s biodiversity.
Away from the capital city Antananarivo (Tana) and the main tourist attractions, journeying through eastern Madagascar is a step back in time to an era before convenience and accessibility became a tourism mantra. This is where the best travel tales are made – stories of adventures to a remote idyll on the back of an ancient motorbike or in a local pirogue (dugout canoe), arriving sweaty, dusty, and elated. Of course, this is entirely at the traveller’s discretion, and there are easier ways to access some of the more popular tourist haunts in the east.
Sunset over the capital of Madagascar, Antananarivo
Andasibe-Mantadia National Park
When it comes to the wildlife viewing that Madagascar is famous for, Andasibe-Mantadia National Park (see cover image above) – formerly known as ‘Perinet’ – is one of the most important ports of call. With its plethora of fantastic beasts and easy accessibility from Tana, it is one of Madagascar’s most famous national parks. It consists of two halves: the Analamazaotra Special Reserve and the Mantadia National Park, which protect around 155km2 of precious rainforest. Historically, Analamazaotra was part of Mantadia, but logging and agriculture have isolated the two regions.
Most visitors to Analamazaotra are there to see the vocal and critically endangered indri – the largest of all living lemur species. The indri is only found in the forests of eastern Madagascar, and Andasibe-Mantadia is the best place to view them. These extraordinary creatures look something like a cross between a panda and a monkey and they fill the forests with haunting, unearthly howls. Local legends tell of a time when two brothers separated – one to become human, the other the indri. The cry of the indri, say the stories, is because they still mourn their lost sibling. However, it is well worth remembering that sacred or not, they too are subject to the demands of the physical realm and standing directly beneath them for the perfect photograph may result in an unexpected shower or worse. (This word of warning applies to all lemur sightings.)
In addition to the indri, Andasibe-Mantadia is home to at least 11 other lemur species (scientists regularly discover new lemur and chameleon species in Madagascar). These include the glamorous, limber diademed sifaka and the adorable nocturnal woolly lemurs. Like all national parks in Madagascar, the trails can only be explored in the company of a guide supplied by the park, but this will only make the trip more rewarding. Their expert direction will reveal the hiding spots of secret creatures and bring the magic of the forest to life, from tiny brightly coloured frogs to spikey tenrecs mammals that resemble hedgehogs but belongs to their own family, endemic to Madagascar.
While wandering along leafy trails to tumbling waterfalls, visitors can keep their eyes peeled for the flutterings of endemic bird species like the Madagascar yellow-brow, Madagascar wagtail or even the Madagascar serpent-eagle. Andasibe is also a good place to see Madagascar snipe, brown mesite, brown emutail, and white-throated oxylabes.
Timing a trip between September and January will mean that bright colour splashes decorate the forest as the hundreds of orchids burst into bloom.
Clockwise from top left: ruff-necked lemur; golden mouse lemur; woolly-necked lemur (photographer Jennifer Vitanzo)
Misty mountains of Masoala and the forests of the east
Extending over 2,300 km2 of the island’s north-eastern peninsula, Masoala National Park is Madagascar’s largest protected area. Famously biodiverse, Masoala is well and truly off the beaten track and accessible only by boat (or on foot for adventurous hikers with time to spare). Consequently, those who do make the journey are usually rewarded with a piece of paradise all to themselves. The park includes three separate marine sanctuaries, the Nosy Mangabe Special Reserve (see below) and sections of the Antongil Bay, while the terrestrial portion covers a mosaic of tropical rainforest, lowland forest, coastal forest, mangroves and marshes.
The captivating red-ruffed lemurs are found only in the rainforests of Masoala. These hefty lemurs play a vital role in dispersing the seeds of tropical hardwoods and are critically endangered due to habitat loss. Most of the park’s other lemur species are nocturnal, so a night walk accompanied by the swooping silhouettes of massive bats is an integral part of the exploration.
[For a more detailed account of Masoala National Park, read Magnificent Masoala.]
Maosola National Park is part of the Rainforests of the Atsinanana UNESCO World Heritage Site – a serial property composed of six national parks protecting relict forests in Madagascar. The other five parks are Marojejy National Park (not far from Maosola), Zahamena National Park, Ranomafana National Park, Andringitra National Park, and Andohahela National Park. The parks run from north to south along the eastern escarpment and support some of the most threatened plant and animal species on the island. These biodiversity hotspots are bursting with colour and life, from silky sifakas and red-bellied lemurs to Madagascar red owls and helmet vangas.
Indri – found only in the forests of eastern Madagascar
Nosy Mangabe
Just off the coast in Antogil Bay, the mountainous terrain of Nosy Mangabe swells up out of the murky green waters of the cove. It is the kind of setting deserving of a Hans Zimmer soundtrack, complete with a rum-drunk pirate wielding a cutlass and chasing his hat across the sand. Indeed, Nosy Mangabe is steeped in a rich history of trade and piracy. A rusty shipwreck stands guard at one of the coves and Dutch sailors of the 16th century scraped doodles into the rocks.
Today, the island is uninhabited but for a campsite that serves as a base for researchers and tourists. The dense forest is one of the best places in Madagascar to see the endangered aye-aye, a nocturnal evolutionary oddity designed by nature to fill the ecological niche of a woodpecker. With their long fingers and scraggly fur, these bizarre-looking lemurs were almost wiped out entirely due to an unfortunate belief that they are harbingers of evil and bad luck. The population inhabiting Nosy Mangabe was introduced to the island during the 1960s as a conservation initiative, and they have flourished ever since. Nosy Mangabe also boasts one of the largest populations of the fascinating leaf-tailed gecko – a creature with a genuinely spectacular camouflage strategy.
The outlandish and persecuted aye-aye
Whales, beaches, and reefs
True to form, the beaches of eastern Madagascar are as lush and wild as the interior – a tropical paradise Robinson Crusoe style. Far from the calm and sheltered west coast, the seas here often crash and tumble onto palm-fringed beaches and at certain times of the year, swimming in the rough seas is ill-advised. The weather can be unpleasant, and cyclones regularly batter the region from January to March each year. However, when timed correctly, there are sections of calm where shallow turquoise waters and laid-back coastal towns offer holidaymakers a piece of paradise – often cheaper and more secluded than the more popular northern islands.
Nosy Boraha (formerly Île Sainte-Marie) is a long narrow island that lies off Madagascar’s east coast. Like Nosy Mangabe, Nosy Boraha was once a notorious pirate hideout. The savage ocean claimed several buccaneer ships, and experienced divers can now explore which sea creatures have made themselves at home in the sunken wrecks. On the island, a forlorn-looking pirate graveyard dates back to the 17th century.
Every year, from July to September, humpback whales travel through the calm, sheltered channel between Nosy Boraha and Madagascar on their way north to calve (often in Antongil Bay).
A humpback whale breaches
The Pangalanes Canal and the Palmarium Nature Reserve
Further south, the Pangalanes Canal links a series of lakes, rivers, and waterways from Tamatave to Farafangana – a distance of over 645km along the coast parallel to the ocean. Used by locals as a sheltered transportation route, it passes through small towns and villages that have changed little in the past hundred years. Apart from the opportunity to observe traditional Madagascan life, a highlight for most visitors along the canal is the Palmarium Nature Reserve, which is home to several different species of highly habituated lemurs.
Clockwise from top left: Arachnis flosaeris orchid; Boophis tasymena; giant leaf-tailed gecko; Madagascan yellow-brow
The ins and outs of exploring Madagascar
Madagascar’s tropical climate is typically enjoyable all year round, though the wet season runs from November to March, usually with minimal winds. February carries the highest risk of fierce tropical cyclones, which tend to batter the east coast particularly viciously. The cooler dry season from April until October alleviates the worst of the oppressive heat, particularly when hiking on the islands or through the humid forests.
There are plenty of budget and camping opportunities in or near all of the destinations mentioned above. It is advisable to travel in Madagascar with a reputable company, but it is possible to hire a car to drive between the various attractions. The roads are bad, particularly during the wet season, and a 4 x 4 is essential. The only major exception to this is the Andasibe-Mantadia which is easily accessible from the vibrant capital Tana.
A brightly coloured helmet vanga removes a centipede from the forest ecosystem
Final thoughts
Madagascar is a fantastical land – a natural evolutionary playground and a human kaleidoscope of cultural influences. Remarkable, offbeat, and enticing, this magical island offers an intoxicating combination of unique wildlife viewing and magnificent scenery. There is far more to Madagascar than our series could ever hope to convey, but there is no question that it is a country with something to offer everyone. Our travel consultants are always on standby to help you plan the Madagascan holiday of your dreams.
Want to go on safari to Madagascar? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.
Ken Behrens is a birder, naturalist, consultant, guide, and photographer, who is based in Madagascar. He is the co-author of several books, including Wildlife of Madagascar. His work can be seen at ken-behrens.com
This time we adventure to western Madagascar, in our four-part series on this wondrous island. See the resources section at the end of this story for the other three stories in the series.
For the last 88 million years, life on Madagascar has been on its own – creating an island of evolutionary oddities and myriad diverse travel experiences. Sometimes referred to as a “Noah’s Ark” or the “eighth continent” due to its geographic isolation and high levels of endemism, the island of Madagascar is, simply put, enormous. It is approximately 587,000km2 (around two and a half times the size of the United Kingdom). A combination of ocean currents and dramatic topography has created a tapestry of different climates and habitats perfectly suited to the island’s peculiar inhabitants (or the other way round).
The island is home to over 300 recorded birds (60% of which are endemic) and 260 species of reptile – including two-thirds of the world’s chameleon species. There are over 110 species of lemurs spread throughout Madagascar’s protected areas, in a variety of shapes and sizes but all possessing a shared, wide-eyed charisma. Six of the world’s eight baobab species occur only in Madagascar. All in all, the natural history is unique, shaped by the fascinating and beautiful, isolated island habitats.
In an ideal world, a trip to Madagascar would extend over weeks to give the curious traveller every opportunity to explore the magnificent island. Realistically, however, time is usually limited and deciding where to invest one’s attention is guaranteed to create a significant traveller’s quandary. This four-part series is intended to help guide this decision.
Western Madagascar
The curvy outline of Madagascar’s western edge is a testament to a time when the island was still joined to Africa (then part of Gondwanaland) around 165 million years ago. The sheltered bays and coves closest to its parent continent were the island’s gateway to the outside world for the antecedents of its amazing wildlife. It is here that the flotsam carrying the earliest lemur ancestors would have washed ashore, while the first chameleons would have taken their initial wobbly steps into a new home on the beaches. Both of these creatures would find themselves with a world all to themselves and would go on to evolve into the myriad species known (and some still undiscovered) today.
The hot and dry region is well-deserving of its title of the ‘Wild West’, far removed from the country’s capital Antananarivo and the rich, lush forests of the east. Divided into a northern and southern section with little in the way of roads linking the two, getting to and around western Madagascar requires a degree of patience while travelling through farmlands and sparse savannas. This forbearance will, however, be richly rewarded by the scenery and wildlife on offer. Some of the most iconic images and scenes associated with Madagascar are from its enormous western portion. From upside-down trees to rocks with teeth, the island’s arid west is full of Madagascan specialities.
Clockwise from top left: Baobab alley; a bridge crossing a chasm in Grand Tsingy; a forested hillside featuring baobabs (Adansonia perrieiri); entwined Baobabs ‘Baobab de Amoureux’
Allée des Baobabs – Baobab Alley
Of all of Madagascar’s evocative settings, it is perhaps Baobab Alley that receives the most photographic attention (see our cover photo above). This exquisite stretch of dusty red road is lined by towering baobabs, some of which are over 2,800 years old and around 30m in height. Against the short surrounding scrubland, these giant Grandidier’s baobabs (Adansonia grandidieri) stand out as what is now recognised as a natural monument. At sunrise and sunset, tourists flock to admire their dramatic shapes in the golden light – their long straight bodies and peculiar crowns (like roots planting themselves into the sky) create an entirely alien atmosphere.
Of the eight species of baobab in the world, six are found only in Madagascar. The Grandidier’s baobabs of Baobab Alley are the tallest. They were once part of Madagascar’s vast tracts of dry deciduous and tropical forests. Sadly, slash and burn agriculture and relentless human advancement are estimated to have destroyed around 50% of the island’s forests in the last 60 years, and these stately giants now stand in isolation.
After that sombre thought, visitors can travel just seven km from the Baobab Alley to appreciate an ancient story of boundless love in the form of two intertwined za baobabs (Adansonia za) – the ‘Baobab de Amoureux’. The legend goes that two people were once desperately in love but were already promised to others. Desperate, the couple appealed to their god, and thus the baobabs came to be – entangled for eternity.
Clockwise from top left: Madagascar blue vanga; Madagascar serpent eagle; Madagascar blue reed-frog; Madagascar paradise flycatcher
Kirindy Mitea National Park
Not to be confused with Kirindy Private Reserve further north, the 722km2 (72,200 hectare) Kirindy-Mitea National Park is one of the more remote national parks, situated on the west coast, south of the sleepy beach town of Morondava. The large park encompasses the overlap of southern and western biotypes. The habitats are many and varied, including dry deciduous forest, tropical dry forest, spiny forest, mangroves, beaches and coral reefs. An added advantage is that few tourists travel here because it is so remote, and one can explore the hiking trails in relative seclusion (with a mandatory guide, of course).
A predatory fossa, most easily seen in Kirindy Private Reserve (photographer Pedro Ferreira)
Kirindy Private Reserve
The relatively newly established Kirindy Private Reserve (Kirindy Forest) is situated north of Morondava and is privately owned and run. Despite the region’s destructive history of logging, wildlife here managed to survive and is now flourishing. This is a reserve and not a national park, meaning that night walks are available through the reserve itself, rather than just on the outskirts. (Night walks in the national parks of Madagascar have been banned, but guides are still permitted to lead groups of tourists along the roads bordering the parks to look for nocturnal lemurs, chameleons, and other creatures of the Madagascan night.)
Kirindy Forest is the best place in Madagascar to see the lithe, carnivorous fossa – the island’s largest mammalian predator. Looking something like a cross between a cat and a mongoose (though more closely related to the latter), the acrobatic fossa is equally at home in the trees or on the ground while hunting for reptiles, birds, and lemurs. Fossa start their mating season in November, when the females take to the trees, call loudly and wait patiently to take their pick of appropriate suitors. A visit during this time does not necessarily guarantee a fossa sighting but does increase the likelihood of a genuinely exceptional sighting of one of the island’s most exciting animals. Though fossa have a widespread distribution across the island, they occur at extremely low densities and are seldom spotted in the other protected areas.
In addition to the fossa, Kirindy Forest is also home to the smallest lemur on Earth: the critically endangered Madame Berthe’s mouse lemur. This minuscule primate weighs just 30 grams on average. It is named after Madagascan primatologist and conservationist Berthe Rakotosamimanana (the reason for selecting her first name can be left to the imagination.) These tiny creatures wrap themselves in vines and sleep during the day, emerging at night to forage, so a night exploration is essential. This is especially true because they are creatures living on the edge of existence – experts suggest that they could be extinct in the next ten years if the current rate of deforestation continues.
Though the forest is bursting with reptile and birdlife, there is one final mammal species of Kirindy Forest deserving of a mention. The Malagasy giant rat (giant jumping rat) is a regular nighttime visitor to the camp and looks very similar to a springhare.
Clockwise from top left: Von der Decken’s sifaka; red-tailed sportive lemur; Verreaux’s sifaka; ring-tailed lemur; red lemur
Tsingy De Bemaraha National Park
The term “tsingy” loosely translates as a place where you cannot walk barefoot – or to walk on tiptoe. It is the perfect description for the extraordinary geology of Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park. Together with the Tsingy de Bemaraha Strict Nature Reserve, the region is a UNESCO World Heritage Site centred around the ‘Great Tsingy’ and the ‘Little Tsingy’. In places, the jagged limestone pinnacles stretch almost as far as the eye can see – a sawtooth landscape shaped by the forces of water and wind over millennia.
The park’s infrastructure is well developed and maintained, but a certain degree of physical fitness is necessary to make the most of a trip. The weather is always relatively hot, and even though the park is only accessible during the cooler dry season (April to November), temperatures regularly exceed 35˚C on the plateaus. The hikes include travelling across via ferrata, walkways and suspension bridges before descending into narrow and humid caves and canyons.
Naturally, the park’s peculiar geography is inhabited by Madagascar’s usual array of weird plants and strange creatures adapted to exist in very narrow niches. These include bottle trees and orchids to the giant coua (a bird) and the extremely rare Madagascan big-headed turtle. Of course, lemurs are ever-present, and those hoping to complete their checklists (with over 110 lemur species on the island, this would be an impressive feat) could tick off the Von der Decken’s sifaka and red-fronted lemurs, among others.
Tsingy De Bemaraha National Park
The ins and outs of exploring western Madagascar
Timing a trip to western Madagascar requires some delicate balancing of weather, wildlife and wishes. Throughout the island, some of the wildlife species go into a state of torpor during the dry winter months, starting around May and continuing until November. This applies to everything from chameleons to lemurs and is particularly true in the drier sections of Madagascar, where plant and food availability are scarce. In the west, the parks come to life during the hot rainy season from November to March, but this is also when the roads are at their worst, and some areas are completely inaccessible. May offers a good compromise – the vegetation is still lush after the wet season, and the animals are still mostly active. However, those wishing to see baby lemurs should delay until September/October.
There are plenty of budget and camping opportunities in or near all of the major parks and some more exclusive options for the more discerning visitor. The prime western destinations are far from the capital and often require a long drive on rough roads or chartered flights. Once there, it is essential to try and plan hikes and activities for the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat. Plentiful water and sunscreen supplies are crucial, as is a hat. Acquainting oneself with the colourful lives and personalities of local people en route is an inevitable part of exploring western Madagascar and only adds to the richness of the experience.
Clockwise from top left: A motorised barge trip on the Tsiribihina River; camping on the Tsiribihina River; Luxury at L’altra Faccia Della Luna – Chez Diego – Anakao; view from a room at Chez Diego; Auberge Peter Pan, Anakao; Fine dining in the middle of nowhere at the Mad Zebu
Final thoughts
Madagascar is a fantastical land – a natural evolutionary playground and a human kaleidoscope of cultural influences. Remarkable, offbeat, and enticing, this magical island offers an intoxicating combination of unique wildlife viewing and magnificent scenery. There is far more to Madagascar than our series could ever hope to convey, but there is no question that it is a country with something to offer everyone. Our travel consultants are always on standby to help you plan the Madagascan holiday of your dreams.
Want to go on safari to Madagascar? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.
Ken Behrens is a birder, naturalist, consultant, guide, and photographer, who is based in Madagascar. He is the co-author of several books, including Wildlife of Madagascar. His work can be seen at ken-behrens.com
Why did rhino poaching flare up so suddenly in South Africa just over a decade ago?
The answer to this question may provide some useful clues while searching for solutions to douse, or at least dampen, the recent poaching inferno that has swept over Southern Africa and extinguished the lives of close to ten thousand of these iconic animals. Rhino poaching is not new of course. For centuries, hunters and horn poachers of all hues have been slaughtering them across Africa and Asia – some to hang on the walls of lounges and trophy rooms, some to be carved into dagger handles or kept as status symbols, or simply crushed up for use in traditional Chinese medical potions.
Yet there was a critical point – in 2008 – when horn poaching literally exploded in South Africa – the last, large bastion of global rhino conservation.
Whoosh! It was almost as if a match had been tossed over a petrol-soaked land to ignite a massive bush fire that would spread out to engulf just about every piece of land in South Africa where rhinos had thrived for several decades in relative safety, in stark contrast to rhino populations in most other parts of Africa.
Somewhere on the plains of the Serengeti, a cheetah sprints after her terrified prey. It is a magnificent sight as muscles bunch and release, propelling her at speeds around 100km/hour. Yet there is a largely overlooked element to this evolutionary equation: the terrified Thomson’s gazelle staying just ahead at every turn, jinking and dodging until its pursuer runs out of steam. The sheer magic of the little gazelle’s athleticism is often overlooked in the excitement of a big cat sighting.
Across the Mara-Serengeti ecosystem, tourists flock to admire the hordes of wildebeest and zebra and the predators that plague them. The Thomson’s gazelles that dot the grasslands do not attract the same enthusiasm. Even the term “gazelle” is widely misunderstood and misused. Indeed, lots of people still consider the name to be a blanket term for antelope. In actual fact, while all gazelles are antelopes, not all antelopes are gazelles, but we will address that later.
Tommies
The Thomson’s gazelle (Eudorcas thomsonii) is probably the most well-known of all gazelle species and is named after Joseph Thomson, a 19th-century geologist and explorer. They are often referred to as “tommies” and are spread throughout the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem of Tanzania and Kenya.
Thomson’s gazelles are relatively small, standing under a metre at the shoulder, but they are phenomenally fast. Anecdotal evidence suggests that they may reach speeds of up to 94km/hour, though most researchers suggest a more conservative 80km/hour. Either way, they are among the fastest terrestrial land mammals. What’s more, they can sustain these speeds for much longer than most predators. Their small size confers exceptional agility, and their sharp hooves allow for sufficient traction to perform hairpin turns at top speed.
Their coats are fawn-coloured and decorated by a mixture of black and white markings on the face, flank, and tail regions. The rams and ewes have horns, but those of the females are almost ludicrous. They are spindly and short and often grow in bizarre directions or curl to grow close to the skull.
Two rams sizing each other up
The great horn debate
Some have theorised that the reason behind the gender horn difference is that the Thomson’s is an example of evolution in action. That is, the females are gradually losing their ability to grow horns at all. This, in turn, ties into the theories on why some female antelope grow horns while those of other species do not.
There are several explanations offered for this phenomenon. The first is a strong positive correlation between females growing horns and a preference for open habitats with minimal cover. Thus, the antelope is more conspicuous, and horns will serve the female well to defend both herself and any offspring. The same idea applies to large-bodied antelope that would struggle to hide. On the other hand, horns in a dense habitat are cumbersome and detract from the individual’s ability to hide. There is no survival advantage in expending energy to grow horns. A further explanation is that in species where the female has horns, it is harder for mature males to identify and chase young males away from the group, thus increasing the chances of survival for young males.
There is no consensus on exactly why the horns of female Thomson’s gazelles are so dramatically reduced, but it does fit neatly with the theories. Though they prefer mostly open habitats and are known to fight valiantly against predators, their main defence is speed.
A fleet-footed fawn
Hide-and-seek
Fortunately, the tiny Thomson’s gazelle fawns are not entirely reliant on their mother’s horns for survival. They are highly camouflaged and genetically programmed to remain still in the absence of their mothers. So powerful is this instinct that fawns have been observed to remain frozen even while being pawed by predators – often to the intense confusion of the attacker. It is incumbent on guides to be extremely cautious when driving off-road, particularly when birthing peaks.
The behaviour of a mother returning to feed her fawn is easily spotted. She will creep cautiously towards the hiding place and circle around it, stopping to scan for predators every few minutes. She may even pretend to feed at intervals. An astute and patient observer will be rewarded by the sight of their reunion and nursing.
If their secretive approach fails, the minute fawns are highly vulnerable and are preyed upon by everything from eagles to lions. Despite the aspersions cast about their horns, the mothers are courageously defensive and have been known to chase baboons and jackals away from their fawns successfully.
The terrifying gauntlet of the Mara River
Migrating
Another underappreciated fact about the Thomson’s gazelle is that it is part of the Great Migration. While the zebras and wildebeest generally take centre stage, smaller numbers of tommies also migrate, occasionally bearing the bemused expression of a small animal caught up in an irresistible tide. The journey is believed to be primarily motivated by access to water, and their migration pathway does not extend as far as that of the wildebeest or zebra. In some parts of the Serengeti, Thomson’s gazelles may form up to 90% of a cheetah’s diet. The research shows that the movements of the gazelles also affect those of the female cheetahs and non-territorial males.
The complicated phylogenetic tree of the gazelles (in green) and their nearest relatives. Note that the branch lengths are not to scale.
Family resemblance
Unfortunately, the nitty-gritty of unravelling which antelopes are gazelles is quite complicated. So, what is a gazelle, and why is the term not specific to any one genus or species? Let’s start with the basics: family, subfamily, tribe, and clade are all tools devised by scientists to convey the complex relationships between the various antelope genera. With over 90 species and a great deal of convergent evolution, this is not a simple process and involves tracing lineages backwards through time towards a common ancestor. Sometimes corrections have to be made as genetic evidence contradicts morphological similarities. If the following explanation gets a bit befuddling, feel free to skip to the final two sentences of this section.
Gazelles are part of the Antelopini tribe, which also includes the bizarre-looking gerenuk and the springbok. Geneticists have only unravelled the specific phylogenetic relationships within the tribe in the last decade. A full explanation of the genetic analysis and classification is beyond the scope of this article (and the range of most peoples’ interest). However, such research has resulted in the splitting of the Gazella genus into three: the Gazella, Eudorcas (including the Thomson’s gazelle) and Nager (for example, Grant’s gazelle). To make matters more complicated, three Asian species of the Procapra genus bear the common name “gazelle” but are not true gazelles.
Clockwise from top left: Dama gazelle; Soemmerring’s gazelle; rhim gazelle; dorcas gazelle; Grant’s gazelle; Cuvier’s gazelle; Speke’s gazelle
For the sake of simplicity: if it belongs to either the Gazella, Eudorcas or Nager genus, it is a true gazelle. If not, but it looks vaguely gazelle-shaped, it is probably closely related. For now, anyway.
Other African species of gazelle include:
Cuvier’s gazelle (G. cuvieri) – found along a strip of North Africa in Algeria, Morocco, Western Sahara and Tunisia. They are currently classified as ‘Vulnerable’ on the IUCN Red List.
Dorcas gazelle (G. dorcas) – widely distributed across most of North Africa and a strip along the Horn of Africa. They are currently classified as ‘Vulnerable’.
Rhim gazelle (G. leptoceros) – another of the North African species, rhim gazelles are found in isolated pockets in the Sahara Desert in Algeria, Tunisia, Libya and Egypt. They are currently classified as ‘Endangered’ on the IUCN.
Speke’s gazelle (G. spekei) – found in increasingly fragmented sections of a strip of the Horn of Africa, the Speke’s gazelle is currently classified as ‘Endangered’.
Red-fronted gazelle (E. rufifrons) – distributed across Africa in a narrow strip south of the Sahara Desert (the Sahel region) and currently classified as ‘Vulnerable’.
Dama gazelle (N. dama) – also known as the addra or mhorr gazelle, the Dama gazelle occupies isolated pockets in the Sahara and Sahel regions.
Grant’s gazelle (N. granti) – the range of the Grant’s gazelle overlaps considerably with Thomson’s variety, and they are often confused. However, Grant’s gazelles are almost double the size. They are listed as ‘Least Concern’.
Soemmerring’s gazelle (N. soemmerringiii) – closely related to the Grant’s gazelle, the Soemmerring’s gazelle is found across the Horn of Africa. A dwarf population is isolated in the Dahlak Kebir Island. They are listed as ‘Vulnerable).
Not a springbok
The body shape and thick black flank stripe account for the fact that tommies are quite regularly mistaken for springbok (Antidorcas marsupialis) and vice versa – even though springbok are not true gazelles. The two antelope are strikingly similar at first glance in terms of both looks and behaviour but can be readily distinguished by their distributions, which do not overlap in the wild. Springbok are isolated to the more arid areas of Southern Africa, while Thomson’s gazelles prefer the short grasslands of East Africa. Springboks are taller and heavier than tommies and display a very characteristic pronking behaviour not seen in other antelope.
The primary distinguishing features of Thomson’s gazelles and springboks are their horns. The springbok’s horns grow upwards before curving inwards towards the midline of the head, while those of Thomson’s gazelles grow upwards and then curl slightly backwards.
Springbok
Conclusion
As we admire the flashy speed of a cheetah, it is easy to forget that the cat’s fleet-footedness is the result of a continuing evolutionary race to be the fastest and, on this racetrack, the Thomson’s gazelle is the stiffest competition.
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We have HEART-WARMING news in our first story below. Nature’s resilience against our onslaught is a constant source of soul food for me – and, I am sure, you. There is so much going on behind the scenes at ground level in Africa – and this success story is just one indicator of immense conservation efforts by dedicated people.
And then we have a new bat species! And it’s ORANGE with black wings. How sad that some commentators on our Facebook page immediately focused on the link between Covid and bats and expressed fear and concerns about this beautiful creature. Oh boy, isn’t it concerning how we often fixate on the wrong end of the problem?
Finally, our third story below gives us a boy’s perspective of a few days in the life of a Madikwe game ranger. I know this kid; he is an excellent example of the benefits of a BALANCED upbringing with plenty of time outside.
OK, that’s it from me for 2021. Phew, what a year. Here’s hoping that your 2022 is better than the last two years. JUST LOOK UP
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Scientific Editor
My favourite view in the entire world: the Abel Erasmus Pass lies between the two small towns of Ohrigstad and Hoedspruit, where the road winds through the Manoutsa section of the Limpopo Drakensberg Mountains. The views at this time of year are beyond breathtaking – the air washed clean by afternoon thunderstorms, the rocks golden and the vegetation verdant. One dares not take one’s eyes off the road for more than a split second, but there are plenty of places to stop and take in the vista.
As I weave the tight corners that negotiate the precipitous decline, I always feel a sense of peace, as though a weight has been lifted – the magic of the wild. Below me, the Olifants River snakes its way through the bushveld, which stretches as far as the eye can see. To a now bush-starved city-slicker like myself, it is such a joy to know that the bush will always be there, waiting for me to return…
And the wild will await your return as well when the time comes to travel to Africa once again. Because nothing can match the miraculous effect that it has upon the soul.
• If this awesome video does not get you in a safari mood, nothing will! For the BEST PRICES at these and other lodges visit our travel & conservation club via your mobile phone app or desktop and search under ‘lodges’
• CEO choice: Simon loves this glamping safari because there is enough comfort to chillax but not so much that you feel disconnected
DID YOU KNOW:Heaviest wood in the world? The black ironwood tree Olea capensis, found throughout sub-Saharan Africa. One meter weighs roughly 1,300kg. The wood sinks in water, unlike other wood
My name is Luka, and I am ten years old. I was lucky to recently spend ten days of my school holidays in Madikwe Game Reserve in South Africa – where I spent the first eight years of my life. My mom was a guide in Madikwe, and I had my first game drive when I was just days old. Some of my story here is about dead animals, which can be upsetting. But I have lived in the bushveld for most of my life, and I am used to seeing dead animals.
It was go-go-go from the first morning I woke up! An early start with my ranger friend who I was staying with for the first while. We headed off on patrol to check the anti-poaching cameras. Mostly, this means checking and replacing batteries and fixing any cameras that animals have damaged. We found one camera with a cracked screen from an elephant tusk. After about five hours of checking cameras, it was time to head back home for some banana bread – yum yum.
Early the following morning, one of the Madikwe guides radioed that he had found a dead lion. It was the big male, Monamogolo (this means ‘old man’ in English). He was the biggest and most dominant of the Madikwe lions.
We immediately drove to the carcass. The first thing we noticed was the awful smell….worse than rotten eggs! He had probably been dead for about four to five days.
The male lion killed by other lions
We had to do a post-mortem to find out what caused the lion’s death. Only the head and the front legs were still there; hyenas must have eaten the rest. There was a broken bone in the neck from a hyena, but the clue that the cause of death was other lions came from the facial bites. We could see the tooth marks on the skull. It seemed as if the lionesses of the Jamala pride killed the old male. Monamogolo had killed three of their cubs before he died (they weren’t his cubs).
The lionesses didn’t kill him straight away but rather fought with him and then left him to die. It was weird there were no bite marks on the neck. This is where you would expect to find killing bites. Also interesting to me was that there were no injuries or cuts on the lionesses, which we bumped into later. We removed the head and paws of the lion to prevent poachers from getting hold of them and trying to sell them.
Enjoying an elephant sighting during our coffee break – glad our vehicle was just behind me
Two hours later, we received a call about a badly injured rhino bull that had been in a fight with another bull. We met up with the vet and went to the location of the injured rhino. Luckily we found the rhino easily and didn’t need to call in a chopper to look for him. The vet carefully approached the rhino on foot and successfully darted him. After the drugs took effect, we gave him some medication for his injuries. It seems the other bull hooked and stabbed the injured one behind his front legs and around his scrotum! We then drilled into his horn and inserted a microchip. The vet gave him the antidote to wake up, and then the bull peacefully went back into the bush.
It was a hectic and exciting day that I will never forget.
This is me, Luka, helping with the injured white rhino bull
The next day I went to a lodge on the western side of the game reserve for a couple of days. On the first day, we had to do the shop run to a tiny town called Derdepoort. I went with my two ranger friends. On the way, we got a call to shoot a zebra to feed some male lions in the boma. (Editors note: These boma lions are part of a project to maintain the Madikwe lion population’s genetic diversity. They will be released into the reserve when they have habituated sufficiently. The bomas do not contain any other animals, and food is provided for the lions). We searched for about three hours to find a suitably sized stallion. After loading the zebra on the back of the car, we headed to the boma.
When we dropped the carcass off the back, the lions fought over the meat. The youngest male seemed to be confused about what the zebra was and played with it for about 20 minutes. These are new lions, two young males and an older lion that will be released into Madikwe, hopefully as a coalition. This will also be good for the park seeing that one of their biggest lions has just died.
Me and my guide Evan
My next stop was more relaxing – a private lodge on the eastern side of the reserve. We enjoyed some nice game drives and relaxation after all the conservation work we had done. We were with an excellent and experienced guide – Evan. I had a lovely time with him as we got on very well. Evan is a very interesting guy, and there was so much to see. We had elephant dung tea, rubbed our backs on rhino rubbing posts and ate VERY nice game drive snacks. We also found two lionesses one morning. One of them had blood on her face. We followed, and it turned out they were on their way to fetch their cubs. With the cubs following them, they led us to a fresh kudu carcass.
It was nice to visit Madikwe again, and to remember the places I have memories of. I will visit again – hopefully often.
A large nomad lion has settled in the remote Zinave National Park, Mozambique, and there is evidence that a lioness has joined him. This extraordinary story of Africa’s apex predator recolonizing a former range is being hailed as a conservation success story.
This park was ravaged during the Mozambique civil war that ended in 1992 and subsequent poaching. Then, ten years ago, an intensive restoration and rewilding programme was launched. The inspirational programme included reintroducing more than 2,300 wild animals (14 species) – including 200 elephants – into a sanctuary within the national park.
A camera trap recently captured the image of this large lion which has since settled in the park, along with his female companion. The photographed lion is a young adult male estimated at 4 to 5 years of age. Male lions are usually pushed out of a pride at between 2 and 3 years old, becoming nomadic and attempting to establish their own territories and prides. The image was taken on a camera trap set up by park warden, Antonio Abacar. The camera trap was set up near the sanctuary fence close to one of the entry gates. Momentarily startled by the flash, the lion charged the source of the disturbance and broke the camera, but fortunately, the memory card remained intact, and the photograph was retrieved.
The first lion to roam Zinave National Park – Mozambique – in 30 years
Incidentally, this momentous occasion comes amid an exciting new phase in Zinave’s translocation programme – the introduction of predators. A clan of four spotted hyenas were settled into the park at the end of 2020 and have already produced two cubs. Two leopards, male and female, were successfully introduced in late 2021.
The populations of reintroduced herbivores have already blossomed to more than 9 000 animals, rapidly restoring the ecological balance in the park and attracting the first free-roaming lions.
Bernard van Lente, Peace Parks Foundation’s Project Manager for Zinave National Park, explains that: “With the abundant prey and safe environment available, the fact that the park can sustain large carnivores is very encouraging, and it will not be too surprising if more lion, leopard, wild dog / African painted wolf and cheetah start to make sporadic appearances, over and above the carnivores that are set for reintroduction in the coming years.”
The Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park; including Zinave NP (top right)
Zinave National Park is the easternmost anchor park of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area (GLTFCA), which also comprises Banhine and Limpopo national parks in Mozambique, Kruger National Park in South Africa, Gonarezhou National Park in Zimbabwe and various other state and privately-owned conservation areas across the three countries. Wildlife monitoring has shown that multiple species, including lions, elephants, and wild dogs, use this crucial cross-border migration route to access water, food, and breeding grounds through the ecological corridors connecting the different conservation areas.
With the assistance of several donors, the reintroduction programme has been accelerated under a 20-year co-management agreement signed in 2015 between Mozambique’s National Administration for Conservation Areas (ANAC) and Peace Parks Foundation, with the eventual goal of rewilding the entire 408,000 ha park and developing it to sustain its operating costs through ecotourism.
The last hundred years have seen lions disappearing from up to 95% of their historic range. Over 200,000 lions once roamed across Africa’s wild places; now, only an estimated 23,000 to 39,000 mature individuals remain due to habitat destruction, human-wildlife conflict, poaching and poisoning.
With bright orange fur and black wings, Myotis nimbaensis is unlike any other bat on earth.
In 2018, an international team of experts climbed into the Nimba Mountains of Guinea in search of the Lamotte’s roundleaf bat. The species is exceedingly rare—known from just a single mountain and considered critically endangered by the International Union for Conservation of Nature. Little did the scientists know that in searching for the dwindling mammal, they’d soon come face to face with something even more extraordinary—a bat species no one had ever seen before.
While most people would reach for the black or brown crayon when sketching a bat, the new species sports rusty orange fur reminiscent of an orangutan and ink-black wings streaked with auburn veins and finger bones.
Nimba Mountains, Guinea
“The bat is just particularly spectacular,” says Dr Winifred Frick, chief scientist at Bat Conservation International and an associate research professor in Ecology and Evolutionary Biology at the University of California, Santa Cruz.
In truth, it’s not all that uncommon for scientists to discover a new species these days, nor even a new mammal, but a lot of these findings are actually what you’d call “taxonomic revision,” says Frick. In other words, sometimes two animals look so superficially similar, they were originally thought to be the same. However, advances in genetics are allowing scientists to make finer distinctions between species than ever before.
For example, researchers at the California Academy of Sciences described more than 200 new species of plants and animals in 2020–and that’s just a single institution! All told, some scientists estimate that 86 percent of all life on earth has yet to be described. But of all the animal species on earth, around 97 percent are invertebrates, with 1.25 million species described so far and perhaps as many as another 30 million species out there waiting to be discovered. And while North America and Europe have been pretty thoroughly documented, the tropics still teem with undescribed plants and animals.
Of course, this is why the case of the new bat is so striking. Called Myotis nimbaensis, and described for the first time in the January issue of American Museum Novitates, this bat started raising eyebrows from the minute it flew out of an abandoned mine and into a harp trap. (Harp traps look like the musical instrument, but allow scientists to safely capture bats using a row of fine strings.)
There are other orange bats in the world, but something about this new specimen was off. Several of the scientists spent all night sifting through resources called taxonomic keys that can be used to identify one species from another. When they met the next morning for breakfast, they agreed that the specimen did not fit the description of any other species. It was time to call in backup.
The new bat species – Myotis nimbaensis
“At that point, I started getting text messages from Africa,” says Dr. Nancy Simmons, curator in charge of the Department of Mammalogy at the American Museum of Natural History in the United States.
While the researchers in the field continued trying to collect more specimens, Simmons started scouring her museum’s records for anything that came close to the new bat back in New York City. She also travelled to the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History in Washington, D.C. and the British Museum of Natural History in London to see if they had anything that might be a match. But in the end, nothing compared.
“When it came down to it, I was sure it was a new species,” says Simmons, who is also Chair of the IUCN’s Global Bat Taxonomy Working Group.
In addition to the bat’s physical characteristics, the researchers also compared the animal’s DNA and echolocation calls to other closely related species. “Those are three completely different lines of evidence that all converge on the same answer, which is that this is a different species,” says Simmons.
Not much is known about M. nimbaensis yet, though the researchers believe the species is only found in the Nimba Mountains, a range that straddles Guinea, Côte d’Ivoire, and Liberia. At just 40 kilometres in length, the Nimba Range is known as a hotspot for biodiversity—its high altitude peaks serving as “sky islands” for other rare wildlife, from West African lions and pygmy hippos to the zebra duiker and western chimpanzee.
Sunrise over the Nimba Range
Based on the bat’s closest cousins, the scientists suspect it preys upon small insects and roosts underground in caves. And because it was found flying out of an old mining tunnel, it seems likely that these human-made habitats may be crucial to the species’ continued existence. Around a dozen exploratory mineshafts already exist in this area, drilled in the 1970s and 1980s in search of iron ore deposits.
“It is well known that the biodiversity of the Nimba Mountains is under severe threat,” says Bakwo Fils Eric Moise, a zoologist at the University of Maroua in Cameroon and coauthor of the new paper, alongside Frick and Simmons.
Fortunately, the mining company that owns the land the bat was discovered on has been a willing partner in taking stock of and working to protect species endemic to this area. In fact, the scientists’ work in Guinea has been done in conjunction with an outfit called Société des Mines de Fer de Guinéa. And because many of these tunnels, called adits, are now beginning to collapse, the company is also partnering with Bat Conservation International to excavate new shafts. The idea is to create a habitat for the Lamotte’s roundleaf bat—which the scientists did manage to relocate on the fateful expedition—but the project will likely benefit the new orange bats, too.
“A discovery like this can be used as an additional argument to develop sustainable in-country programs for research and conservation,” says Moise.
So not only is the new bat a super exciting breakthrough for science, but the attention it’s garnered might just do some good for its neighbours too.
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So I was lying awake last night with monkey brain; pesky mosquitos going through their gears like F1 racing cars adding to my malcontent. Mind racing, I wondered about humankind’s fascination with cryptocurrencies, the metaverse and space travel. And how coming on SAFARI in Africa is the ideal way to get back in touch with real-life 🙂
Thanks to all for the responses to my editorial of last week. Whether you are pro- or anti-trophy hunting or in denial about that industry’s self-imposed slide towards extinction, I enjoy hearing from you. And now the EU has SUSPENDED TRADE in raw ivory on the EU market. My concerns about the loophole relating to ‘ancient ivory’, and whether this update will have much of a dampening effect on poaching aside, this is yet another sign that the wheel is turning, albeit slowly.
Speaking of ivory, our first story below is both sad and a celebration that this big boy lived a full life and his genetic legacy endures. Every big TUSKER remaining is a natural heritage and should be afforded protection from all who covet those tusks.
Our second story is vital because it speaks to the battle between human and animal rights and the use of MISINFORMATION to pressure Africa’s conservation industry to adapt to ideological frameworks that often don’t make sense at ground level here in Africa.
And finally, we all want to know how to travel in a post-Covid era of heightened awareness about our impact on EARTH. Find out how in our third story below.
Have an exceptional festive season y’all. Peace out
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Scientific Editor
My grandfather was something of a character. He once, for example, enjoyed the hospitality of the Pilgrim’s Rest jail cell (of which there was only one) after being found with a nugget of gold in his pocket. He swore blind forever after that he found it just “lying around”. He hated shopping malls and would mutter loudly about Sodom and Gomorrah if forced to visit one.
When I found myself doing the same thing yesterday, I realised that I may have inherited more than just his love of the bushveld. In all fairness, everyone knows that the absolute worst way to get into the holiday spirit is to visit the shops just before Christmas, especially during a pandemic. But my camera charger packed up, and I was desperate.
The sheer volume of “stuff” – sometimes useful, sometimes fairly useless, all in excess – bore down on me like a relentless analogy for humanity’s overindulgence. Rows of plastic, stands of gimmicks, over-priced (and hideous!) clothing and garish decorations beneath forever-burning lights – no sign here of a world barrelling towards a climate collapse. Though not yet at the point of muttering aloud, I confess the words of Wordsworth ran through my head: ” The world is too much with us…”
But let us not end on such a note. In southern China, scientists have discovered “the best dinosaur embryo ever found in history”. Its name is Yingliang, and it was just about to hatch some 66 million years ago before tragedy struck. You can read more here.
• GREAT NEWS – we have extended our popular Okavango Delta special offer by three months. Regrettably for African citizens and residents only
• Our Kenya special offer is a bucket list safari for both the year-round magic of the Maasai Mara and those iconic dryland species in Samburu – gerenuk, Grevy’s zebra, reticulated giraffe, beisa oryx and Somali ostrich
Tsavo Trust has announced with great sadness that one of Tsavo’s super tuskers, known as ‘Wide Satao’, has died of natural causes
Wide Satao was an old bull who lived a full life. He will undoubtedly have passed on his great tusker genes to future generations of elephants, and he gave many visitors to Tsavo great pleasure with his presence.
Tsavo’s “Big Tusker Project” is carried out jointly by Tsavo Trust and Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS). Save the Elephants (STE) monitors elephant movements through a joint collaring program. Wide Satao was first identified and named as an emerging tusker in August 2013. Over time his ivory grew immensely, and he was elevated to the super tusker elite category in February 2018. Since naming, he has been observed 376 times, an average of once per week over nine years.
Last week, Tsavo Trust received a call from STE advising that Wide Satao’s collar was sending immobility alerts; aerial & ground units were dispatched immediately. On arrival at the site, Wide Satao was found alive but weak, with poor body condition. He attempted several times to stand but failed. He died at 9 pm that night.
Wide Satao died of old age, but his condition had deteriorated during the extended drought that has ravaged Tsavo in recent months.
EDITORIAL NOTE:A recent report compiled by investigative journalists and publicised by a Daily Maverick article has slated Namibia’s much-vaunted community-based wildlife conservation program. This has incensed a significant portion of the Namibian conservation community. 76 entities/people have responded by way of three separate posts below – correcting factual inaccuracies of the report and questioning the motives of the journalists. To better understand the situation, please read the above links and the three responses below. The list of compilers appears below each response.
Summary of allegations made in the three responses below:
There are factual inaccuracies in the report, as detailed below
The critical report, while purporting to convey concern for people and wildlife, is based on a thinly veiled anti-hunting agenda
The Community-Based Natural Resource Management (CBNRM) has never been touted as a silver-bullet solution to Namibia’s socio-economic challenges yet is blamed for several external factors that have little to do with the CBNRM programme itself
There is no evidence that the interview “data” was gathered with the necessary permits and ethical clearance. To conduct fieldwork and social research without permits is illegal in Namibia. The methodology and scientific rigour of the report are severely wanting
There is no mention of obtaining free, prior, and informed consent from interviewees. Some of the individuals interviewed have later claimed that their responses were misrepresented or distorted to suit the report’s conclusions. In essence, the investigative process was conducted in bad faith
There appear to be conflicts of interest regarding the research funding and personal biases of the journalists
The report uses disingenuous comparisons to analyse and compare hunting revenue data to that generated by other forms of non-consumptive tourism
The report cherry-picks the challenges facing specific areas, focusing on wildlife declines in regions severely affected by drought, and socioeconomic issues in areas where wildlife populations are healthy and thriving
Conclusions regarding wildlife populations and human-wildlife conflict (particularly concerning elephants) appear to have been based on drive-by observations over a few weeks rather than substantive scientific data produced by previous studies over a more extended period
While the difficulties faced by rural Namibians highlighted in the report are accurate, the report inaccurately extends the blame to the CBNRM and, in many instances, fails to include vital context that might otherwise contradict the author’s conclusions
Response 1: Why false sympathy will not help Namibian people or elephants
Animal rights organisations seem to be strangely fixated on Namibia’s community conservation model. The reason for this fixation is obvious – Namibia includes hunting as part of its broader wildlife economy and has made greater efforts to include rural communities in conservation than most other countries in the world. Recently rated second in the world for conserving megafauna (i.e. large mammals) in a peer-reviewed scientific paper, Namibia’s strategy that includes the sustainable use of wildlife is clearly working, much to the annoyance of animal rights organisations.
It, therefore, came as no surprise when a coterie of such organisations – Animal Survival International, Animal Welfare Institute, Born Free Foundation, Fondation Frans Weber, Future for Elephants, Humane Society International and Pro Wildlife – funded this reporton Namibian conservation, despite none of these organisations funding any real conservation work in the country. Since animal rights positions are effectively countered by the success of human rights-based conservation, they specifically targeted the Community-Based Natural Resource Management (CBNRM) programme.
CBNRM was established in southern Africa during the 1980s and 1990s when several newly independent countries were looking for more inclusive conservation models than those practised by the colonial regimes. In Namibia, one of the major issues identified by rural communities was the discrepancy between wildlife ownership on freehold land (then held exclusively by white farmers) compared with communal land. While freehold farmers were granted rights to use wildlife occurring on their land a few decades before independence (leading to impressive wildlife recoveries on these lands), people on communal lands were still locked out of the wildlife economy. With no incentive to conserve wildlife perceived as belonging to the government and white people only, poaching was rife, and the human-wildlife conflict went unchecked, making some communities openly hostile towards conservation officials.
That all changed with an amendment to legislation in 1996, which allowed self-identified communities to apply for their lands to be gazetted as communal conservancies that they would manage following their own constitutions. This opened the door for people on communal lands to obtain similar rights to wildlife as freehold farmers, which soon resulted in wildlife populations increasing on land where it was formerly pushed to the brink of local extinction.
National wildlife trends in Namibia from an early rough estimate in the 1700s to today (more accurate data obtained since the mid-1900s). The turning point in the late 1960s came with changes to government policy allowing wildlife ownership on freehold land. Source: Dr Chris Brown.
In practice, operating a communal conservancy is a complicated task, as these groups of people choose to work together to conserve their resources for the common benefit. Further, the wildlife species that live on these lands are notoriously difficult to live with – elephant, lion, crocodile and hippopotamus occasionally take human lives, while these and other species (e.g. spotted hyaena, leopard, cheetah and African wild dog) frequently threaten livelihoods by destroying crops and killing livestock. Furthermore, communal conservancies are unfenced, which on the one hand makes them particularly useful as wildlife corridors but on the other introduces the difficulty of keeping unwanted visitors or illegal settlers out. Finally, these community institutions are nested within a larger socio-economic and ecological landscape that inevitably affects their operations and members’ lives.
Journalists Adam Cruise and Izzy Sasada use the complexity of CBNRM and broader societal issues that have little or nothing to do with CBNRM to create a thin veil of feigned concern for people and wildlife that does little to conceal their primary objective – to attack trophy hunting. Cruise is on record comparing the sustainable use of wildlife for the benefit of people to parasitism, where humans are the ‘parasite’ and nature is the ‘victim’. Their report would never pass any form of peer review due to its almost information-free methods section. Besides that, there are apparent conflicts of interest relating to funding, and the lead author has previously expressed extreme bias against the object of investigation – African communities using their natural resources for their benefit.
Cash flow in conservancies in 2019 with income from tourism and hunting (left). Cash flow in the same conservancies without income from hunting (right). The removal of hunting income would push most conservancies in the northeast into the red, particularly in the Zambezi Region. Conservancies for which there was either no income or no data for that year are not shown. Source: MEFT and NACSO (2021) The State of Community Conservation in Namibia (2019 Annual Report)
Regarding the methodology, nothing is said of the total interview sample size, how interviewees were selected or what kind of questions they were asked. Furthermore, there is no mention of obtaining free, prior and informed consent from interviewees or of any ethical clearance or research permits received prior to this fieldwork. Omissions of this nature are not permitted in scientific literature because they are easily used to hide interviewer bias and unethical procedures. By publishing this report without any of the relevant information described above, the interviewers effectively sidestepped all ethical requirements or the need for scientific rigour. In order to work in Namibia, foreigners must apply for permits from the Ministry of Home Affairs and Immigration, while research permits must be obtained from the National Commission on Research, Science and Technology. Conducting fieldwork and social research without such permits is illegal in Namibia.
Meanwhile, the “on-site assessment” of issues relating to elephants appears to have been based on drive-by observations lasting a few weeks in each of the regions they investigated. These random observations are then used throughout the report to cast doubt on data collected through well-established scientific methods (e.g. aerial surveys), extensive government consultations regarding human-elephant conflict, and long-term data collected by the conservancies. Elephant sightings from the ground, gathered without systematic methodology, inevitably underestimate elephant population numbers, which is why aerial surveys (and counts of individually identifiable elephants, where possible) are used to generate more accurate estimates in Namibia and elsewhere in Africa. Yet Cruise emphasises casual drive-by observations or elephant sightings recorded by the conservancies from ground-based counts, thus implying that these are more accurate than systematically collected data.
Elephant population trend in Namibia based on data collected using systematic, scientific methods. Source: MEFT (2020) Draft Elephant Management Plan.
Cruise and Sasada’s initial description of the economic benefits of trophy hunting is a telling glimpse of the bias that runs throughout the report. Comparing the contribution to the GDP from a niche sub-sector of tourism that requires free-roaming large mammals (i.e. hunting) with that of tourism, in general, is disingenuous. The entire tourism industry includes hotels, beach resorts, scenic tours, etc., which does not require any wildlife to be present; most of this tourism revenue accrues to urban areas. Dividing hunting income by land surface area is even more bizarre, especially for a vast desert country such as Namibia – hunting income is not used to cover every hectare of the country in money.
More relevant statistics that focus on the relative contributions of these two industries to communal conservancies reveal that hunting (which includes trophy and meat hunting) contributed 30% of the total revenues generated by communal conservancies. In contrast, tourism contributed 66% in 2019. Additionally, many conservancies rely solely on revenue generated through hunting for their income.
Income from all forms of consumptive wildlife use (including the value of meat distributed and fees from trophy hunters) and joint-venture tourism (including the employment of conservancy members). The impact of COVID-19 was more significant on tourism in 2020 than it was on hunting. Source: MEFT and NACSO (in press). The State of Community Conservation in Namibia (2020 Annual Report).
The authors’ other biases are visible in their treatment of conservancies located in three different regions of the country – Kunene, Otjozondjupa and Zambezi. In the Kunene Region, which has suffered a severe, prolonged drought in recent years, the focus is on wildlife declines. Drought is the ultimate cause behind the wildlife declines and the increased poverty reported among Himba people (who lost most of their livestock due to drought), yet it is barely mentioned.
Cruise, the journalist who tackled the “elephant ecology” part of the report, fails to explain that wildlife migrates extensively and/or die-off during times of drought, only to return and reproduce quickly when conditions are favourable. Therefore, his random observations at the end of a long drought period are not an accurate portrayal of wildlife trends since the start of CBNRM (these trends are publicly available here). He also appears to be unaware that these arid areas are at the extreme margin of elephant range (even without conflict with people), making this sub-population particularly vulnerable to drought. This situation further exacerbates conflict with farmers, which led to the Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism (MEFT) taking steps to reduce elephant numbers in the eastern parts of the Kunene Region through a live elephant auction.
The state of vegetation in the Kunene Region in May 2021 at the time of Cruise and Sasada’s visit (darker red = further below-average vegetation growth; darker green = further above-average growth; yellow is close to average). While some parts of the region received better rainfall at the start of this season, the ten-year drought continues unabated in many areas. Source: namibianrangelands.com.
In eastern Otjozondjupa, where elephant populations are healthy and increasing, Cruise and Sasada shift the focus from wildlife management to marginalised rural communities. Like other journalists who have dropped in to interview these communities with false sympathy for their plight, they present the many socio-economic challenges San people face today, most of which have little or nothing to do with CBNRM. Everything from alcoholism to the price of food at local shops is described in detail, while even conservancies are cast as some form of oppression.
The uninformed reader might be led to believe (deliberately, it seems) that the government appoints committees to manage these conservancies, yet this is not true. Conservancy management committees are elected by their own communities following democratic processes. One of the CBNRM-related complaints from this region was the inequitable distribution of meat – interviewees clearly wanted more meat more frequently. One wonders if the interviewer revealed that their ultimate goal was to cut off the game meat supply to these communities entirely?
Four conservancies compared in terms of their sources of returns (data from 2018). Nyae Nyae Conservancy, one of two conservancies investigated in Otjozondjupa, relies most heavily on hunting-related income and meat. Without this income, Nyae Nyae would not be able to function or distribute any meat to its members. Salambala is in the Zambezi Region, while Torra and ≠Khoadi //Hôas are in the Kunene Region. Source: MEFT and NACSO (2020) The State of Community Conservation in Namibia (2018 Annual Report).
The third region – the Zambezi (formerly Caprivi) – also has healthy wildlife populations. The journalists quote fewer people in this section compared with the other areas (which leaves open the possibility that most of the responses they received were not to their liking). They, therefore, shift their focus once more to include the failed secession attempt by some Caprivians in 1999 (what that has to do with CBNRM remains unclear), plus human-elephant conflict that is a real challenge in an environment where both human and elephant densities are high. The Zambezi Region is home to over 90,000 people and is located in the centre of the larger Kavango-Zambezi Trans-frontier Conservation Area that supports an estimated 220,000 elephants.
A common complaint reported both here and in the other regions was that not enough money is provided through the government’s conflict offset scheme (which is topped up by conservancies). What Cruise and Sasada fail to mention to their readers is that the current scheme would not exist without funds generated from the sustainable use of wildlife (via the Game Products Trust Fund). What they failed to mention to their interviewees is even more egregious – that their ultimate desire is to eliminate the current source of funding for human-wildlife conflict offsets entirely.
Expenditure by the Game Products Trust Fund (GPTF) in Namibian dollars for the period 2012-2018 – N$ 16.7 million was spent on human-wildlife conflict. All of this revenue is derived from the sustainable use of wildlife – both hunting and live sales income that the government receives. Data used with permission from the GPTF.
Taken as a whole, this report looks distinctly like a “hit-and-run” job aimed at trophy hunting, with community conservation as a secondary casualty. Now that the interviews are over, perhaps the authors would like to return to Namibia to present their results to their interviewees – with honest conclusions and detailed consequences of their recommendations. A fair presentation would include the following points:
You (interviewees) wanted more meat and other benefits from your conservancy; we want your conservancy to stop the sustainable use of wildlife, which means there will be no more meat to distribute, while other benefits will similarly decline in future.
You desired more money to offset the costs of living with wildlife; we want the current source of funding (i.e. sustainable wildlife use) for the offset scheme to be eliminated, thus leaving you with no offset scheme at all.
You complained about people who come in from outside and settle on your land illegally; we would like to weaken further the grassroots institutions in your region (conservancies) that have fought legal battles for your cause.
Unfortunately, expecting such an honest report is unrealistic since the whole investigative process was done in bad faith. Having spoken to an interviewee quoted in this report, we know that the journalists did not introduce themselves as such and obtained no consent whatsoever to use any of the quotes they obtained. Indeed, this interviewee recalls giving a very different response to the one that is attributed to her in this report. The people who provided their honest, off-hand opinions to a passing stranger would have had no idea that their words would be twisted and used against them – to worsen their current situation.
The journalists and their financiers will no doubt use this illegal and unethical report to further their animal rights agenda while not spending a dollar of their lobbying budgets to alleviate the plight of the people left in their wake. In fact, a worse situation for both people and animals would prevail if their dream of dismantling community conservation came true. Over 1,000 people who are directly employed by conservancies will lose their jobs, the meat currently being distributed will no longer be available, and the voices of marginalised rural communities will be silenced. For the animals, poaching and the associated illegal wildlife trade will skyrocket in the absence of community game guards. Unchecked human-wildlife conflict will result in more deaths (of wild animals, livestock and people), and the wildlife corridors in the Zambezi Region will be effectively closed by agriculture.
The difficulties faced by rural Namibians and reflected in this report are real, yet CBNRM has never been presented as the silver bullet that would fix every problem in society. As it stands, this democratic system of wildlife management is not perfect, and solutions to the multiple challenges that conservancies face are far from simple. If COVID-19 has taught us anything, however, it is that everything becomes much more difficult when income from wildlife-based industries is summarily cut off. The ultimate goal of this report – to effectively remove 30% of all conservancy revenues and 100% of revenues for hunting-reliant conservancies – should therefore be treated like a viral infection that would significantly weaken Namibia’s conservation efforts.
The following institutions and people supported the above response:
The Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism (MEFT) + The Namibian Association of CBNRM Support Organisations (NACSO) + 66 members of the Namibian Chamber of Environment, as follows: Speiser Environmental Consultants + African Conservation Services + Africat Foundation + Agra ProVision (Agra Ltd) + Ashby Associates + Biodiversity Research Centre, NUST (BRC-NUST) + Botanical Society of Namibia + Brown Hyena Research Project Trust Fund + Cheetah Conservation Fund (CCF) + Conservation Association of Namibia (CANAM) + Desert Lion Conservation Trust + Development Workshop Namibia (DW-N) + Eco Awards Namibia + Eco-Logic Environmental Management Consulting cc + EduVentures + Elephant Human Relations Aid (EHRA) + Environmental Assessment Professionals Association of Namibia (EAPAN) + Environmental Compliance Consultancy (ECC) + EnviroScience + Felines Communication & Conservation Consultants + Giraffe Conservation Foundation (GCF) + Gobabeb Research & Training Centre + Greenspace + Integrated Rural Development & Nature Conservation (IRDNC) + Jaro Consultancy + Kwando Carnivore Trust + LM Environmental Consulting + N/áan ku sê Foundation + Namib Desert Environmental Education Trust (NaDEET) + Namibia Biomass Industry Group (N-BiG) + Namibia Bird Club + Namibia Nature Foundation (NNF) + Namibia Professional Hunting Association (NAPHA) + Namibia Scientific Society + Namibian Association of CBNRM Support Organisations (NACSO) + Namibian Environmental & Wildlife Society (NEWS) + Namibian Hydrogeological Association + NamibRand Nature Reserve + Nyae Nyae Development Foundation of Namibia (NNDFN) + Oana Flora and Fauna + Ongava Game Reserve & Research Centre + Otjikoto Trust + Rare & Endangered Species Trust (REST) + Research & Information Services of Namibia (RAISON) + Rooikat Trust + Save the Rhino Trust (SRT) + Scientific Society Swakopmund + Seeis Conservancy + SLR Environmental Consulting + Southern African Institute of Environmental Assessment (SAIEA) + SunCycles Namibia cc + Sustainable Solutions Trust (SST) + Tourism Supporting Conservation Trust (TOSCO) + Venture Media + Black-footed Cat Research Project Namibia + Bell, Maria A + Bockmühl, Frank + Desert Elephant Conservation + Irish, Dr John + Kohlberg, Herta + Lukubwe, Dr Michael S + Namibia Animal Rehabilitation, Research & Educa on Centre (NARREC) + Sea Search Research & Conservation (Namibian Dolphin Project) + Seabirds & Marine Ecosystems Programme + Strohbach, Dr Ben + Wild Bird Rescue
Response 2: We will not be bullied
The report by Adam Cruise and Izzy Sasada on the Namibian Community-Based Natural Resource Management (CBNRM) programme is based on highly unethical and illegally conducted research, the results of which were twisted to suit their agenda. This pair of journalists entered our conservancies and spoke to people without obtaining a research permit from the government or even informing our conservancy offices of their intentions. Those of us who recall speaking to them and are quoted in their report were misrepresented, as our statements were taken out of context and used to tell an untrue story about Namibia.
As representatives of Namibian conservancies, we hereby condemn both the methods and the outcome of Cruise and Sasada’s report in the strongest possible terms. The authors and the organisations that financed this research have broken Namibian laws and shown extreme disrespect for Namibian people and their rights.
CBNRM is a critical mechanism for linking nature conservation with rural livelihoods and development needs. We, therefore, resent the deliberate use of the challenges we face – including widespread poverty, terrible drought conditions and human-wildlife conflict – as a means of dismissing our conservation efforts. We are the custodians of the last free-ranging black rhino population on earth; we live among dangerous wild animals that have been eradicated elsewhere, and we zone significant portions of our land for wildlife conservation. Yet, in this report and others driven by the same agenda, we are unfairly judged and punished – for the sole reason that we defend our right to the sustainable use of wildlife.
The challenges associated with rural development and poverty alleviation in Africa are not limited to Namibia. Yet, our progressive constitution and flagship CBNRM programme have included wildlife conservation within our development goals. Many countries in the developed world like to talk about Sustainable Development Goals. In Namibia, we live Sustainable Development. From first-hand experience, we can tell you that it is not easy balancing our people’s current, urgent needs with our desire to protect wildlife for future generations. Especially when that wildlife includes dangerous wild animals like elephants that trample our crops, destroy our water points, and even threaten our lives.
The Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism (MEFT) and the support organisations that fall under the auspices of the Namibian Association of CBNRM Support Organisations (NACSO) are trusted partners who assist us with overcoming these challenges. By contrast, none of the animal rights organisations that funded Cruise and Sasada’s report has ever provided any assistance towards conserving elephants or other wildlife in Namibia. They, therefore, have no right to criticise our conservation efforts or undermine our financial viability. Furthermore, without our active participation in anti-poaching patrols, human-wildlife conflict mitigation, and awareness creation within our respective communities, there would be no wildlife on communal lands in Namibia. Yet, the eradication of wildlife appears to be a desirable outcome for Cruise and Sasada and the organisations that funded their illegal activities.
Many of the social problems highlighted in their report are beyond the scope of communal conservancies or beyond our ability to control. Nonetheless, as community-based institutions, we have an essential role to play in bringing our members’ concerns to the attention of government and other stakeholders. While we cannot eliminate all social problems on our own, we aim to use the limited budgets we have to create tangible benefits for our communities. Cruise and Sasada dismiss these benefits as being unworthy of consideration, yet they do not offer alternative or better forms of income that we could use to increase member benefits. It is clear that they have no interest in improving the lives of the people they interviewed but rather seek to impoverish them further.
While in Namibia, Cruise and Sasada used trickery and deceit to obtain their interviews. Having stolen our words without our consent, they are using their report to bully us into submission. But we will stand by our goal of sustainable rural development; we are proud of our conservation achievements. We remain the rightful custodians of free-ranging wildlife on communal lands, and we will continue to expand our natural resource-based industries to increase benefit flows to our members. African people have been denigrated, misused and misrepresented for far too long for us to accept more of this appalling treatment at the hand of foreigners. We will not be bullied.
The following people signed the above response:
Max Muyemburuko (Chairperson of the Kavango East- and West- Regional Conservancy and Community Forest Association + Stein Katupa (Secretary-General of the Kunene Regional Community Conservancy Association) + Brisetha Hendricks (Chairperson of the Kunene South Conservancy Association) + Wesam Albius (Chairperson for the Zambezi Chairperson Forum) + Gerrie Ciqae Cwi (Chairperson of the Nyae Nyae Conservancy) + Visser N!aici (Chairperson of the N#a Jaqna Conservancy)
Response 3: Setting the record straight
≠Khoadi //Hôas Conservancy recently featured in a report by Adam Cruise and Izzy Sasada that sought to undermine Community-Based Natural Resource Management (CBNRM) in Namibia. We strenuously object to the way in which our conservancy was portrayed and wish to correct the many errors and misleading statements made in this report. These individuals came into our conservancy without informing us of the true purpose of their activities, and although one of them (Sasada) claimed to be doing ‘research’ on human-wildlife conflict, no research permit was presented.
The reporters deliberately distorted a casual conversation (not a formal interview) they had with our conservancy manager, Ms Lorna Dax, which leads us to believe that most if not all of the people they quote in their report were similarly misrepresented. In this conversation, Ms Dax responded to questions about the income generated by ≠Khoadi //Hôas Conservancy, saying that most of the revenue came from tourism, while hunting was a second important source of revenue. This is not a secret since Grootberg Lodge is well known as our primary source of income in normal years (COVID-19 significantly reduced international visitor numbers).
In their report, Cruise and Sasada distort this simple statement by saying that Ms Dax implied that hunting generated little or no income for the conservancy. They support this distortion by misusing statistics presented in the 2019 audit report for our conservancy that is kept on the Namibian Association of CBNRM Support Organisation’s (NACSO) website. This information is presented on a public website in the interests of transparency, yet it was misinterpreted (deliberately or otherwise) by Cruise and Sasada.
The audit report they refer to quotes “Potential Trophy Value” figures for each of the species that we have on our quota, with a note stating that these are average figures that are not indicative of actual income to the conservancy (which is based on a contract with the hunter that includes more than just the trophy fee). They use these figures to claim that ≠Khoadi //Hôas Conservancy generated N$ 45,000 from trophy hunting in 2019, which represented 34% of our total income for that period. For the 2019/20 financial year (running June to May), the actual amount was N$ 783,232 – over 17 times higher than their figure.
Had the reporters formally requested information from our conservancy office and provided us with a full explanation of their reasons for using this information, we could have provided the correct data. However, they would not have succeeded in their goal using an honest approach since their research was illegal, and their ultimate purpose was to discredit our conservancy.
Their report on benefit distribution among our members is also misleading, which must be deliberate since this information is contained in the 2019 audit report that they quote. Cruise and Sasada only list 7 of the 18 benefit categories that we recorded in 2019 (Table 1).
Women receiving packets of meat provided by hunting in the conservancy
Five predator-proof livestock kraals were built in 2019
A reservoir protected against elephants by the conservancy during 2019
Cruise and Sasada further misrepresent the state of our wildlife populations. Our conservancy and our neighbours in the Kunene Region have experienced a severe drought since the last good rains fell in 2011. By the time these reporters visited us in May 2021, we had endured ten years of below-average rainfall, during which time many livestock have died, and wildlife migrated to areas that had more grazing. This desperate situation was further compounded by loss of income since the outbreak of COVID-19 in March 2021. We cannot control the climate (which is getting worse due to climate change) or prevent the outbreak of a global pandemic. Yet, Cruise and Sasada blame communal conservancies for problems created by these external forces. This is simply unjust.
The rangeland condition in the Kunene Region in May 2021, when Cruise and Sasada visited ≠Khoadi //Hôas Conservancy (boundary outlined in black), measured using satellite technology. Darker red means that the vegetation is in worse condition than the long-term average (since 2002) at this time of year. Green patches are areas that received recent rainfall and therefore had more actively growing vegetation than the average (shown in yellow).
Human-elephant conflict remains one of our biggest challenges. We work with our farmers to provide water for elephants and prevent the destruction of critical water points. Our environmental shepherds (known elsewhere as game guards) have kept records of these problems for many years, and elephants are a frequent subject of debate at our community meetings. Yet, according to “a pair of goat herders” that Cruise and Sasada happened to meet while conducting their illegal research, elephants are ‘not a problem’. We do not even know if these herders are long-term residents of our conservancy – many people come in for emergency grazing purposes that are not residents or members. How would they know about the long-term struggles with elephants across our whole conservancy?
Other basic errors in their report were the number of people in our Conservancy Management Committee – there are 15 (9 men, 6 women), not as they report 17 (14 men, 3 women). We employ 9 environmental shepherds and not 7 as they report. They claim that 6.4% of our revenues are spent on community benefits, yet the actual benefit proportion for our 2019/20 financial year was 27%. This excludes the salaries paid to our staff (who are also community members) that constituted a further 24% of our budget. The authors speak of the number of jobs created by our conservancy with disdain, yet if we employed more people, there would be less money available for broader community benefits. We simply cannot employ every member of our conservancy, which is a false expectation. The jobs we do create nonetheless support several families and are linked directly to the conservation of wildlife.
Our operating costs, which accounted for the remaining half of the budget in 2020, include essential activities such as anti-poaching patrols, human-wildlife conflict mitigation projects, game counts and other wildlife monitoring activities, vehicle running costs (including to distribute benefits) and meetings to ensure good governance. Without these activities, the conservancy would not be able to conserve wildlife or run our affairs effectively.
In their report about our conservancy and others in Namibia, Cruise and Sasada use poverty, lack of sufficient benefits and funds for conflict mitigation as reasons to attack CBNRM. Yet, they also want to prevent us from generating revenue through sustainable wildlife use. It is clear to us that the authors of this report and the organisations that funded this investigation do not have the best interests of our communities at heart. Our community democratically elected our conservancy committee to govern the conservancy while our employees work for our people. Our members are our family and friends; we suffer with them when they suffer. We do not need outsiders who barely understand what CBNRM means and who clearly prefer animal rights over human rights to tell us how to conserve our wildlife or provide for our community.
The COVID-19 pandemic has decimated international travel. Hopefully though, it has also given us time to reconsider how we travel and the opportunity to evaluate how we might rebuild tourism in a more sustainable and equitable way.
As tourism (hopefully) re-opens, some exciting trends in market research show the changing priorities for potential post-pandemic travellers. These often include health, hygiene and social-distancing measures, sustainable tourism, social wellbeing, benefiting local economies, adventure and trips to natural destinations¹.
Luckily for those involved in ecotourism, wildlife safaris and nature-based experiences provide for all of these.
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So. The UK government has banned the import of hunting trophies of thousands of species – including Africa’s Big 5. The impact of this move will be significant, and you can expect a range of implications at ground level here in Africa – some positive, some negative.
In theory, the practice of the surgical removal of genetically gifted individuals from dwindling wild populations could benefit biodiversity and local people. BUT in practice, this industry (and associated government officials) has too many rotten eggs where corruption, lack of transparency and over-exploitation are de rigueur. The cases of well-managed trophy hunting concessions are to be recognised and respected for their effort – but unless the industry self-regulates to weed out the evil ones, we will see more countries follow the UK example. Times have changed – public awareness is amplified, and populism pressure is organised. Politicians that overlooked or rubber-stamped unsustainable offtakes and unsavoury practices in the old days are now being swayed the other way. Every vote counts. This outdated industry will evolve or go extinct.
The great news is that our club membership is growing fast. 2022 will see even more user-friendly tools added to help you plan your safaris and make impactful donations to worthy projects. Thanks to all that have booked safaris and donated so far 🙂
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Scientific Editor
A few years ago, I went white water rafting on the Nile. Obviously, at several points, we capsized and found ourselves at the mercy of the water, tumbling and rolling in the power of the current. I confess I was somewhat terrified when I realised I couldn’t work out up from down.
The last two years have felt a bit like that in some ways. We’ve all been plunged into the current of Covid, helplessly dragged along in its wake. As a result, tourism and travel have floundered, livelihoods and jobs (and lives) have been lost, and dreams have been shattered.
I think that to some, our fuss and indignation over the knee-jerk travel restrictions of the last few weeks might have seemed an overreaction. Still, the knock-on effects are enormous and not necessarily immediately apparent. In the last week, South Africa’s rhinos have been under siege, brutalised in the worst way imaginable. The experts say that there is always a spike in poaching around the Christmas season, but this appears to be particularly bad and carries a very sinister feeling.
Now I’m not saying that this is a direct consequence of the travel restrictions, but there is an obvious correlation. Protecting rhinos costs money. Tourism brings money and helps to conserve wild spaces and wild animals. Without tourism, the organisations tasked with keeping rhinos safe cannot fund the resources that they need to do so, and rhinos die. As economies struggle and more people dip towards or beneath the poverty line, new generations of potential poachers are created.
Africa desperately, urgently needs visitors to keep travelling to her shores to revel in her wild magnificence. Yet for two years, lodges, reserves, private owners and companies across Africa have been battling to keep their heads above water. For many, the long-lasting effects of the Omicron stigma will be the final wave that breaks them.
So thank you for removing us from the Red List but forgive us if we fail to fall over ourselves in gratitude. I know the whole world has found themselves tipped into this river of Covid together but let’s face it, the quality of the life jackets are just not the same.
• The UK government has removed all 11 African countries from their Red List and acknowledged that the selective travel restrictions did not prevent the spread of the Omicron variant of Covid. Other nations are expected to follow the UK example.
• Africa is sending anti-vaxxers packing! Botswana and Kenya are introducing regulations to restrict entry to holders of valid vaccination certificates. And so it begins …
Imbar Golt is blind. Sensing Kenya, she experiences the wonders of Africa through the smells, sounds, tastes and feels of a camping safari.
The smells of Africa – wet earth and vegetation greet me even on the short layover in Adis Ababa on the way to Nairobi.
The procedures at the airport take little time and we are soon on our way. The smell parade begins as we clear the city limits. Animals – in the rural outskirts of Nairobi, I can already smell them. Fire and smoke from a controlled burn, a dusty scent on the long roads to Mount Kenya. This is our first stop – the smells of the forest, elephant dung and the log cabin where my friend and I spend our very first night in Africa.
A bright morning in Samburu. We are travelling parallel to a river, I hear people saying there are elephants crossing. I go to the front of the truck and hold my head out of the window to listen better. Everybody else is suddenly aware that they have to be very quiet so that I can hear. And I do! I hear the calves squealing with joy, the splashing. It sounds as if the elephants are churning the river into a froth. I am in the river with them in spirit.
‘Hey, Imbar, you want to hear wells sing?’ Avner the guide asks.
My initial thought is that he is pulling my leg. But I humour him.
‘Well, let’s hear them,’ I tell him. We get off the truck and walk on a path of soft sand. I hear people talking in the distance. Not English, so I cannot understand what they are saying. Further on, there are children playing, goats bleating and women talking. We arrive at a spot, after a very short walk. Now I hear water and men in it.
‘Well, what about your wells?’ I say, smiling at Avner.
‘Seems like they don’t want to sing today.’ he replies.
‘Yes,’ I tell him, ‘ it seems like they just want to argue about the fare for their performance.’ So, alas, we heard the non-singing wells of Sarara.
In Lake Turkana, I get my chance to swim in the alkaline water. It is almost like swimming in the dead sea of my Israel.
‘Watch out for the crocs,’ says my friend.
I am a bit apprehensive but keep lying in the water, enjoying its coolness after a long drive. To me, it is magical – the energy here is special. With the rough, sharp grass on the bank, the mosquitoes and midges at night and the crocs in the lake, I feel so much at peace here. We have a gathering with the guide after dinner. I don’t remember what he talked about – I was busy listening to a fishing owl in the distance. No hyenas tonight, they have been our auditory companions most nights, before and after Turkana, but here it’s the insects and the owl.
Birds, also, are everywhere. From the first day at the airport, until the last day in Nairobi, I hear so many new ones. Some I recognise by comparing their calls to ones I have heard in the wild and in films and some I learn through the other keen birders in the group.
In the morning we go on a boat to visit the El Molo tribe on their island. They welcome us warmly and start singing and dancing. I am enchanted – such wonderful, warm people. We clap the rhythm of the song and I feel a hand taking mine and leading me into the circle of dancers. I dance with them, with men and with women. I feel one with them and one with Africa at that moment. No separation of colour, ability or race exists. We are all people with love in our hearts for each and every one. I sing the refrain with them, or as much as possible – I cannot understand a word they are singing. But that does not matter. What matters is the joy of the song and the dancing and the total acceptance between us all. I leave Turkana with a great taste for more, but another sensory experience awaits me.
A childhood fascination of mine was volcanos. I have read everything I could about them, and toured some of the volcanic areas in the north of Israel, but I never imagined the experience I have at Marsabit.
We stop near a crater, I can hear the locals chiselling and breaking blocks of basalt from the slopes. We climb higher and I can feel a void in front of me. I bend down and touch the soft soil, the eroded basalt – oops, it’s a bit slippery underfoot! I walk back a pace. My friend lets me feel some pumice. I experience the lovely lightness of the stone and how perforated and rough the texture is. We depart down a steep slope, me walking sideways, to avoid slipping. It always works.
The Maasai Mara is where we spend our last three nights in Kenya. We stop for lunch on the first day, in the middle of the wildebeest herds. Their unique sounds, the ones I have heard on countless documentaries, are now all around me. There is also a bunch of men from our group trying to imitate them.
‘What does that sound like Imbar?’ Avner the guide asks.
‘It sounds like a bunch of crazy guys!’ I say smiling. They laugh with me.
I do not hear the leopard my group sees jumping from a tree. I do not see a crossing of the Mara River, though I hear the zebra and other animals near the river. I do not see the crocs. But I hear the hippos call in Lake Baringo and the Mara. I hear so many flamingos on Lake Naivasha and enjoy the boat rides both on Turkana and Baringo. I have experienced all that I can through the senses available to me. Yes, including taste – the fruits in Africa taste sweeter, or maybe I am biased. The vegetables are fresher and the rest of the food I enjoy with the unique flavour of Africa.
These two weeks in Kenya are a magical time. The experience is spiritual. The closeness I feel to the people and to our planet Gaia is mystical and my senses, heart and soul are all a part of it.
About the author
Imbar Golt is a blind public speaker, writer and radio presenter from Eilat, Israel. She has travelled the world and visited five continents. She loves nature and is a keen birder. She recognises birds and other animals by their calls.
Another year largely defined by the COVID-19 pandemic bombarded us with negative stories. For the world’s tallest mammal, however, 2021 will end on a relatively positive note. Giraffe are still in trouble and they need our urgent help – but numbers are showing a positive upward trend. The Giraffe Conservation Foundation’s (GCF) latest estimate, based on numbers collated from all over Africa, stands at just over 117,000 individuals in the wild.
While this is still a precariously low number – particularly when compared with African elephant (there is only one giraffe for every three to four elephant) – we can see encouraging signs.
In 2016, giraffe, as a single species, were categorised as ‘Vulnerable’ by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature’s (IUCN) Red List. Now, with the new taxonomic classification of four distinct species, we can better define the conservation status of each species and understand the diverse challenges they face in Africa.
The good news is that overall giraffe numbers are on the rise. The conservation efforts of GCF and many partners appear to be showing success. Estimated at a total of 97,562 individuals in 2015, our 2020 review shows a 20% growth to 117,173 individuals in the wild today. Most importantly, these numbers are increasing across all of the recently defined four species. This is the first time that such trends have been reported in recent history. The following is a brief overview of GCF’s findings.
Northern giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis)
Consisting of three subspecies – Kordofan (G. camelopardalis antiquorum), Nubian (G. c. camelopardalis) and West African (G. c. peralta) giraffe – northern giraffe remain distributed in small, fragmented populations across East, Central and West Africa. It is important to note that the formerly recognised Rothschild’s is genetically indistinguishable from the Nubian variety, and has, therefore, been subsumed into this subspecies. While numbers remain precariously low, their increasing population is positive, particularly in Chad, the Democratic Republic of Congo and Niger.
Native: Cameroon, Central African Republic, Chad, Democratic Republic of Congo, Ethiopia, Kenya, Niger, South Sudan, Uganda
Northern giraffe
Masai giraffe (Giraffa tippelskirchi)
Masai giraffe are now the second most populous taxon with a widespread distribution throughout East Africa, including large parts of southern Kenya and central and northern Tanzania. A small, possibly extra-limital (introduced and therefore out of the historical range) population also exists in the Akagera National Park, Rwanda. Note that the Luangwa variety(G. t. thornicrofti) is a subspecies of the Masai species, and as such this species’ range extends throughout parts of the Luangwa Valley in north-eastern Zambia. The increasing number of Masai giraffe is a very positive trend, which can be attributed to a combination of improved and targeted surveys, and localised successful conservation interventions.
2015: 31,611
2020: 45,402 (increased by 44%)
Proposed conservation status: Vulnerable
Country occurrence:
Native: Kenya, Tanzania, Zambia
(Re-)Introduced: Rwanda
Masai giraffe
Reticulated giraffe (Giraffa reticulata)
Historically, it is likely that reticulated giraffe had a relatively limited distribution in northern Kenya, southern Somalia, and southern Ethiopia. Today, their numbers and range in Ethiopia and Somalia remain essentially unknown. Kenya, especially outside of formerly protected areas in the northern Kenyan rangelands and the Laikipia Plateau, remains their stronghold. In 2015, the first-ever IUCN Red List assessment for reticulated giraffe underestimated their total number, which was subsequently amended. As such, the large increase can be attributed to more accurate survey data rather than substantial population growth. Additional targeted surveys are required to better assess the status of the reticulated species in the wild.
2015: 8,661
2020: 15,985 (increased by 85%)
Proposed conservation status: Endangered
Country occurrence:
Native: Ethiopia, Kenya, Somalia
Reticulated giraffe
Southern giraffe (Giraffa giraffa)
Consisting of two subspecies – Angolan (G. g. angolensis) and South African (G. g. giraffa) – the southern species is now the most abundant. They are distributed throughout most parts of Southern Africa and more widely through extra-limital introductions. During the early 20th-century, southern populations were decimated, but over the past few decades, they have recovered. Increasing habitat in protected areas and swathes of private and communal land combined with intensive management and translocations may not only have helped to increase their numbers but have also potentially resulted in hybridisation of the two subspecies. This may threaten their genetic distinctness (biodiversity). Targeted conservation science is needed to better understand the impact of the hybridisation.
This reduction in numbers is based on a combination of better counting, a better understanding of hybridisation and natural predation. Most major and important Southern giraffe populations are stable or increasing – except for Zimbabwe but that is a very complicated case that we are trying to understand better. It is linked to a significant increase in the lion population which has a devastating impact on giraffe.
Extra-limital: Democratic Republic of Congo, Nigeria, Senegal
Southern giraffe
About the Giraffe Conservation Foundation
The GCF is the only organisation in the world that concentrates solely on the conservation and management of giraffe in the wild. GCF currently implements and/or supports conservation efforts in 16 African countries. Their work has an impact on over 400,000 km2 (100 million acres) of habitat.
Resources
To donate or support the GCF’s work, visit their club page in the Africa Geographic app
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Early morning, and first light is barely breaching the heavy mist that hangs over us like a cold, wet blanket and mutes the first attempts at an avian dawn chorus. This is the Mountains of the Moon, where DRC & Uganda meet and legends are born. I sip my mug of heavily-gingered milk tea and quietly discuss our plans for the day with my trusted friend and fixer Benson Bamatura (sadly now deceased). Our objective is simple – find and photograph a bird that has never before been photographed in the wild (aside from a few fortuitously netted during biodiversity research). Shelley’s crimsonwing Cryptospiza shelleyi – a rare endemic to the dense highland forests of the Albertine Rift – mountain gorilla territory.
We never found the stunning forest finch, despite six visits to parts of its mountainous paradise and operating a two-year netting programme in collaboration with the Ugandan authorities. Subsequent attempts to plan another personal sojourn into southern DRC to find this feathered jewel were stymied by unrest and then Corona. Unfinished business.
I mention this because right now, we all need to hang on to our dreams and trust that this crisis shall pass. Keep believing, dreaming and planning. See you in Africa – soon.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Scientific Editor
I have a particular fondness for the meaning and etymology of scientific names, something that the eagle-eyed among you may have picked up as a common theme in many of my articles.
I love that some convey a wealth of information or provide a snapshot of history. Others are either unintentionally funny or a sly wink (or wonderfully childish humour) from the scientist describing the species. Our fact of the week is one of my favourites -the memory of a somewhat ridiculous misconception of nightjar feeding habits now forever branded into ecological history.
I am always on the lookout for fascinating or humorous additions to my list of scientific name gems, so feel free to send some suggestions by joining the club and commenting below!
From our Editor-in-Chief
This will be my final ramble in the editor’s chair at Africa Geographic. It is time for me to detach myself from my desk and (hopefully) head back out into the wilderness. Obviously, this is a privilege many of us wish for in the year to come – along with wisdom from our so-called leaders. Thankfully I live in a country blessed with an astounding natural and cultural diversity so even if crossing borders is difficult, I can find solace in South Africa’s mountains, oceans and wild lands. Smiles will come from her resilient, beautiful people.
Next week, South Africa’s major inland centres will disgorge large proportions of their residents to the Western and Eastern Cape provinces. Cars full of dazed adults, their over-sugared offspring and mounds of paraphernalia they’ll never use, will travel the major arteries. Most will head for sleepy coastal villages but others will explore the wildlife in these gorgeous provinces. As our first story below explains, a Cape safari is a brilliant, malaria-free alternative to the more traditional Southern African safari destinations.
In our second story below, we explore yet more of the fascinating social goings-on in a hyena clan. This time researchers have discovered that young hyenas inherit their mothers’ social networks in much the same way as humans (and other primates) inherit the social networks their families fit into.
That’s it from me. It has been a privilege to talk to you every week over the last 11 months. With any luck, you’ll be able to read stories from me in the AG club in the not-too-distant future. Perhaps we’ll meet again over a tipple as the last embers of the day fade at some magical spot in the African wild. Until then, stay safe and please come to Africa as soon as you are able – she needs you and your soul needs her!
• Covid update: Analysts at JPMorgan have asserted that early data points to a more contagious but less severe Omicron – which would crowd out other severe variants and speed up the end of the pandemic
• United Airlines has resumed its 3 x weekly non-stop flights between its New York/Newark hub and Cape Town
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES: 
Ian Macallan of Project Luangwa, says:
WATCH: Anatolian shepherd dogs play an important role in alleviating human-wildlife conflict between livestock farmers and predators in Namibia. Meet Captain, a guard dog who dutifully watches over and protects his herds morning, noon and night (03:15). Click here to watch
App subscriber Roger Whittle says:
Alex Brackx is a wildlife photographer who teaches languages in Belgium. He started to pursue nature photography in 2010 while travelling in South and Central America. Through further travels in Asia, Belarus, Finland, and again South America, he began to hone his craft, travelling to film and take photos of wildlife. For Alex, it is a thrill to photograph his observations of animals, birds, landscapes, jungles, deserts and oceans.
Geo Cloete is a multifaceted artist with a degree in architecture from Nelson Mandela Bay University. His photographic works have been recognised through various photographic competitions. Geo has completed award-winning works in architecture, jewellery, sculpture, and photography. As a life-long “aqua man” with an undying love for the ocean, it’s been his passion to share the beauty, splendour and exquisiteness of the underwater world through his photographic projects. Geo strongly believes in the notion that we only love that which we know, and we only protect that which we love. In 2016, in recognition of his contributions to ocean conservation, Geo was selected as a partner for 
Cecile Terrasse is a French wildlife photographer. Cecile enjoys spending time in nature, particularly observing and photographing birds. She strives to capture beautiful light and ambience in her photographs.
Originally from Francistown, Botswana, Brendon spent much of his childhood enjoying the outdoors. His father’s keen interest in birds and bird photography sparked Brendon’s passion for the same when he left school. This led him to pursue a degree in nature conservation. After working in a variety of southern Africa’s diverse habitats, including four years as a field guide at Phinda Private Game Reserve, he and his wife Zandri moved to the Isles of Scilly in the UK. They now spend their free time searching for rare birds and other interesting wildlife. Without large animals to distract him, Brendon is currently working on photographing the diverse moth species that the UK has to offer.
Hesté de Beer hails from a family of skilled photographers, but it was not until 12 years ago that she became interested in the craft. At the time, she asked her father to introduce her to the world of photography. He is still her mentor and strictest critic. Hesté travels with her partner to distant locations around the globe to pursue the most endangered species of the animal kingdom. Through her travels, she has witnessed the adverse effects of the ever-growing human population and technology on the natural world and ancient tribes and cultures. Hesté aims to raise awareness of this plight through her photography.
Sean Davis is an amateur nature photographer who has a passion for bird and wildlife photography. Working in the printing industry, he has always had a fascination with photography. In 2015, he accompanied a friend on an outing to photograph birds and the bug bit. Seven years on, Sean has travelled to many destinations in pursuit of honing his skill. He enjoys constantly learning from other inspiring photographers whilst photographing and experiencing the beauty of birds and nature across southern Africa.
Nick is a wildlife guide who has been guiding for 13 years. Most of his guiding career has been spent in South Africa, where he has worked in public and private reserves. Nick has spent most of this time pursuing his greatest passion: big cats. In his spare time, he searches for big cats outside of the African continent, in destinations such as India and Brazil, searching for tigers and jaguars. For the past three years, Nick has stepped out of lodge-based guiding in favour of privately guided trips. He now travels with guests on safari trips to incredible destinations through Africa and beyond. He aims to inspire a love of wildlife through his photography and raise awareness of the importance of conservation of wild areas to make a positive impact on the world of the wild and all its inhabitants.
Kevin Dooley is an award-winning wildlife, portrait and wedding photographer who grew up in Placitas, New Mexico. His interest in photography began at an early age when at 14, he was gifted with a 35mm camera. Working as an assistant photographer and darkroom technician in his father’s portrait studio, Kevin began his life-long career in photography. After completing service in the US Navy, he returned to New Mexico and opened his photography studio in Albuquerque. During the 39 years the studio has been in operation, he has received numerous awards and been published in many publications. He has also released a photography book: Wild faces in wild places. Africa has always had a special place in Kevin’s heart. He thrives on sharing this amazing place with others.
Marcus Westberg is an award-winning Swedish photographer and writer who focuses primarily on conservation topics in sub-Saharan Africa and Scandinavia. He is a photographer for African Parks, and his work is frequently found in publications such as the New York Times, Washington Post, bioGraphic, Vagabond, GEO and Wanderlust.
Hendri Venter is a photographic guide at Zimanga Private Game Reserve in South Africa. He has always been enchanted by wildlife and the natural world. Growing up on a farm, he enjoyed spending time with its seemingly endless expanse of wildlife. Exploring nature by horseback and by foot, he formed a strong sense of appreciation and amazement for all things natural. He enjoys taking images that capture the endless ebb and flow of nature.
Aimin Chen is an independent photographer who spends much of her time focusing on field photography. Aimin has always loved the life and culture of Africa and hopes to continue to record more wonders of the world with her camera.
Guenther Kieberger hails from Austria. He picked up his passion for wildlife photography ten years ago. Working as a cameraman on wildlife documentaries, he travels to many destinations on adventures around the world. His photos have been widely published in books and magazines. His photographic pursuits centre around identifying specific wildlife subjects to capture and focusing solely on the species in question throughout a photographic trip. Sharing these images with people who cannot experience these moments for themselves brings him joy.
Jens Cullman was born in Nuremberg, Germany, in 1969. His introduction to photography was at age 13, when he received his first camera. As a teenager, he worked with black-and-white film and image developing until he was able to acquire more sophisticated equipment. During a trip to Namibia and Botswana in 2003, Jens’ passion for wildlife photography really ignited, and he has grown in stature since then. He has won several prestigious international awards. Jens was the winner of the Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year 2020 and a runner-up in the 2019 competition. He uses his photography to create awareness about conservation issues and preserving natural habitats.
Johan, an award-winning wildlife photographer, was born in Sweden. Since 2001 he has lived on the small Mediterranean island of Malta, where he recently published his first book, on the island’s wild orchids. He regularly guides photographic tours around the world. After his first safari to Kenya in 2012, he took up wildlife photography full-time. Since then, he has had great success in prestigious international photography competitions. More recently, he was appointed as a Fellow of the Malta Institute of Professional Photography and an elected member of the Swedish Association for Nature Photographers. In his new home country of Malta, a keen interest in nature is not woven into the island’s culture, nor is it a priority in politics. With both his local and international work, Johan hopes to raise awareness and appreciation for the natural world that we are all part of.
Born in San Francisco and currently based in London, Julian Asher has lived in cities around the world, including New York, Zurich, Berlin, and Cape Town. Julian is an award-winning photographer who will go to great lengths in the name of the perfect shot, including being duct-taped into a doorless helicopter over the Okavango Delta in Botswana. The risks have paid off – his work has won multiple awards and has been exhibited at the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History in Washington, DC. As a photographer, Julian focuses primarily on wildlife and wild places – with a particular interest in predators and their behaviour and in indigenous peoples and their traditions. He spends several months a year in the field in Africa, Asia, and Latin America. He enjoys sharing his love of the natural world by leading photography workshops and planning safaris as the founder of Timeless Africa, a triple-bottom-line sustainable travel company. Julian serves on the boards of several Africa-focused NGOs centring on conservation and education.
Owen is an aspiring conservation photographer based in South Africa, with a desire to highlight the challenges faced by tenacious peri-urban leopards in the Greater Kruger region. Owen has published a coffee table book, Searching for spots, about the leopards he has monitored through the duration of a leopard identification project he runs on Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate. His goal is to improve people’s mindsets toward human-predator co-existence and encourage the protection of the natural habitat. Although Owen has a deep love for leopards, he is a nature enthusiast who enjoys birding and the challenges that wildlife photography presents. Travelling to wild spaces and capturing unique moments is where he feels most at home.
Ilna Booyens is an award-winning wildlife photographer whose work has been featured in numerous publications. She has always been drawn to the bushveld’s sights, sounds, and smells. Her passion for wildlife photography started in 2015 when she was gifted with a camera. She enjoys the connection developed with the natural world when photographing its wonders. Ilna spends as much time as possible in the bushveld, testing her patience and perseverance by braving extreme weather conditions and driving for hours to find the perfect subject.
Want to go on a leopard-seeking safari? 
The roads alternate between thick sand and clay that turns into sludge during the short rainy season. Phone signal is non-existent, and visitor density is extremely low, so it is not uncommon to spend the day exploring without seeing another soul. The northern section of the park tends to be slightly busier and offers greater concentrations of wildlife. This may all sound somewhat intimidating, but the result is more than worth the effort. This is, without doubt, one of the wildest parts of Southern Africa. The immersion in nature is absolute, and it is pretty easy to imagine one has this wilderness entirely to oneself. 
