Page 4 – Africa Geographic

Healing in Hwange

We all have our own ways of dealing with stress. Some speak to professionals or pop pills. Others release endorphins via exercise or yoga, and meditate themselves into a state of zen-ness. Hippocrates prescribed a dose of greenery. “Nature,” he said, “is the greatest physician”. Whilst it’s unlikely that Hippocrates ever went on an African safari in Hwange, his words still ring true today. But many are discovering this great secret: the art of healing through safari. A safari is a cathartic experience, with lions or elephants playing the part of therapists, prowling their way deep into our psyche, stomping out negative thoughts (at least temporarily, anyway).

The pandemic blindsided us and brought challenges we didn’t see coming and never thought possible. We were isolated from each other, from travel, and for many, from the natural world. As we start life in a post-COVID era, can we find solace amongst the animals? I headed to Zimbabwe to find out.

A dose of the good stuff

For the past 13 years I’ve worked as an environmental photojournalist and filmmaker, covering stories of human-animal conflict. In the process I have witnessed the best – and the worst – of humanity. I had lived in Africa before – in Mozambique, South Africa and Zanzibar – and as the pressures of a few years of gruelling work began to weigh on me, I longed for the continent.

I missed the smells of a savannah after a heavy rainstorm and those dense, brilliant night skies. I daydreamed of wild, open spaces packed with wildlife, and sitting around a campfire chugging whiskey, listening to stories of lives spent in the bush.

As travel opened up in the post-pandemic world, I decided it was time to test out Hippocrates’ theory, and in March my girlfriend Marie and I set off for Zimbabwe from our home in the Philippines. At first, we were unsure of visiting during green season (the rainy months between December and April). But a good buddy, Mark Butcher (aka ‘Butch’), who runs a few lodges in Zimbabwe – one of which (Bomani Tented Lodge) I added to my itinerary – reassured me that green season meant relaxed animals due to an abundance of water and food, and fewer tourists.

Rhinos, Rhodes and rings

After four flights we arrived at Bulawayo Airport a little bleary-eyed, to be greeted by Phil and Sharon Stead, owners of Amalinda Safari Collection. From here it was a 45-minute drive to Amalinda Lodge in Matobo National Park: the first stop on our three-week tour.

The Matobo National Park is found in the Matobo Hills, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is the oldest national park in Zimbabwe. And it might be one of the most romantic destinations on Earth. Every part of Amalinda Lodge pays homage to Matobo’s giant granite domes. We ate amongst them, slept next to them, swam on top of them, and went on game drives with them as the backdrop.

The Matobo Hills also house one of Africa’s rhino conservation success stories and provide impressive tracking encounters. On our first morning, we came within 5m of a pair of white rhinos, as our guide Howard – aka the “rhino oracle” – explained how rhinos here are flourishing due to intensive anti-poaching efforts.

Hwange — Matopos offers some of the best rhino sightings in all of Zimbabwe

Back at the lodge that evening, we made our way up to a vantage point with Sharon, Phil and a couple of bottles of Champagne. As the sun set over Matobo’s two-billion-year-old hills, I knelt down on one knee, pretended to pull a drone out of my bag, and whipped out an engagement ring for Marie instead. She said “yes”. It had been quite the first day in Zimbabwe.

The next couple of days passed by, a heady mix of celebrating, spending time with rhinos, and enjoying our honeymoon suite. We even found time to visit the grave of Cecil John Rhodes, set on top of a mountain with sensational views. Ending on a high, we packed our bags and headed on the next leg: to Bomani Tented Lodge, in Hwange National Park.

Bomani, Bigboy and the Baggage Handlers

Upon arrival, it turned out that Butch was true to his word: we did indeed have the entire place to ourselves. Bomani is situated on a 2000-hectare private reserve: visitors have virtually no neighbours aside from the animals that regularly visit the waterhole in front of the lodge. Bomani has a real family atmosphere and we were made to feel at home by the lodge manager, the charismatic Bigboy, and our guide, Ndaba.

Whilst enjoying a cup of coffee over the campfire with Butch at 5am, mist dispersing around the lodge, a golden blur caught Butch’s eye. It turned out to be the lion Lesang (pictured in the main image of this story), son of renowned lion Cecil, a magnificent specimen who was on the lookout for a mate.

Lesang is one of many lions that roam locally, along with a grizzled coalition known as ‘The Baggage Handlers’ (so named because they once raided the luggage of a charter aircraft on the runway to get to some vacuum-packed fillet steaks). On a couple of occasions, we were fortunate to see them with kills.

During the many coffees shared with Butch and the Imvelo team, I learnt of some of the ways they are contributing to the surrounding community, including building schools, creating employment, providing water and assisting with healthcare. They have recently been involved in an ambitious project to bring white rhinos back to Hwange. What makes the initiative so exciting is that rhinos are being reintroduced onto community land, where community members become custodians and benefit from tourism through increased employment.

Shortly after our trip, Butch and the team were busy preparing the rhinos for their trip to Hwange. Once in Hwange, they will enter into the care of the ‘Cobras’ – an anti-poaching group selected from the community and trained by Imvelo. Having seen the Cobras in action, it looks like the rhinos will be in safe hands.

A short drive from Bomani leads to Ngamo Plain – a wide-open savannah filled with the who’s who of safari. On a single morning, Butch showed us lion, cheetah, elephant, zebra, buffalo, wildebeest, waterbuck and a lot more.

The final leg

Waving goodbye to the team from Imvelo, we headed north to Khulu Bush Camp in the north-eastern section of Hwange, to meet up again with Sharon and Phil. The lodge is a mirror of Sharon: elegant, stylish and beautifully put together.

Khulu is famous for its deck and plunge pool, where one can view elephants gathering at a large waterhole to drink. Sitting there with a gin and tonic in hand, we received news that a lioness and her cubs were feasting on a kudu close to the lodge.

Another highlight of our stay was hiding under a platform at neighbouring Ivory Lodge, where the elephants would congregate. Crouching with my camera, mere inches away from their trunks, made me sweat in places I didn’t know I could sweat. Shooting from this close with a wide-angle lens provides an intimate insight into elephant herds that telephotos can’t.

The Amalinda Collection also has its own conservation body, the Mother Africa Trust, which aims to empower local communities around Hwange and Matobo. Sharon took us to some of the lion bomas funded by the trust, which protect cattle from predators. Mother Africa has also been involved in building schools and has a dedicated anti-poaching unit.

While we were at the homestead, we met a man who had been injured by a bull elephant a few years ago and now struggles to walk. For many here, supporting family brings daily battles. One misplaced step and treasured cattle could be killed or worse – human life can be lost. The daily stresses I had come to Hwange to escape paled in comparison to the true grit I witnessed here.

A trip to Africa – experiencing its raw realities and overwhelming biodiversity – brings a true sense of perspective. We left Zimbabwe humbled, thrilled, exhausted, and with renewed energy and appreciation for our natural world. For those wanting to deal with demons, there’s nowhere quite like it.

Want to go on Hwange safari? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

Resources

Zimbabwe’s oldest and largest national park, Hwange is a safari paradise that hosts large populations of elephants, lions and wild dogs. Read more here.

The annual wildlife count in Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park is a wonderful citizen-science project for all. Tony Park tells his story.

THIS WEEK

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Moving elephants + rhino run + Serengeti migration safari

The skimpy bikini barely covered her bits, and the danger of a wardrobe malfunction was real. No robe or kikoi in sight – just a few tiny pieces of string. This was no private beach – it was a roadside cafe on the busy main road in the bustling rural town of Gede, eastern Kenya. Men were gawking (as we do) but, more importantly, several people were obviously uncomfortable (bordering on angry) at the ample display of flesh amongst the modestly dressed locals. She was a tourist from Europe and the only Mzungu in the establishment. My guide – we were parked across the road – told me that scenes like this are common in August, when western world holidaymakers descend on the tropical coastline of Kenya. What is it about some people on holiday that they abandon all sense of decency and respect for local culture? Shakes his head, walks away.

Meanwhile, the knobthorn trees in my bushveld hometown bordering the Greater Kruger are smothered in canopies of white flowers, and their sweet aroma wafts through my window as I type this note to you. Many trees are still bare, but here and there tiny green buds are popping up as the temperatures rise and daylight hours lengthen. It’s a good time to be in the bushveld!

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

This week I’d like to send a shoutout to conservationists. This month, 263 elephants were translocated in a cross-country odyssey that is the stuff of legend. I can only imagine the sleepless nights, tiresome labour and toilsome hours put in by the wildlife warriors involved in the move. The elephants are starting to settle into their new home in Kasungu National Park after they were darted, loaded into trucks, and transported 350km north from Liwonde National Park in a colossal month-long operation driven by African Parks. Read more about this milestone in Malawi’s conservation journey in our first story.

Kruger’s wildlife warriors are also continuing the good fight, battling the scourge of rhino poaching in the region. Those on the frontlines defending these precious specimens could use all the help they can get. But how can you help? Simon recently accompanied the runners and walkers undertaking the epic Timbavati Traverse, an ultramarathon through Timbavati Private Nature Reserve held to raise funds for the increasing costs of fighting the rhino war. Read more about how you can support the cause below.

Happy celebrating Africa to you all!

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

As any sitcom trope will tell you, the sight of a spider inspires terror and squealing in the majority of the human population. A few individuals are scooped up in the nearest glass and deposited safely outside, but I suspect most bedroom-dwelling arachnids end up as eight-legged smudges on laminate floors. So here’s a little fact that might make you think twice next time:

Did you know that scientists have discovered evidence of a REM sleep-like state in jumping spiders? The random twitching of their legs even suggests that they might dream – like a dog or a cat chasing something in their sleep. Cute, right?

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/the-march-of-malawis-elephants/
MOVING ELEPHANTS
African Parks has successfully translocated 263 elephants from Liwonde National Park to Kasungu National Park, Malawi

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/not-on-our-watch-the-timbavati-traverse/
RHINO RUN
The Timbavati Traverse is an excellent opportunity for bushveld walkers & runners to make a real difference for Greater Kruger’s rhinos

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

It’s a good time to start planning your next safari. Why now, you ask? Because it’s always a good time to invest in your health and wellbeing 🙂

Here are two popular safari options which we can tailor to suit you. For more options, go here.

Desert & delta safari – 11 days traversing the Okavango Delta, Chobe and Nxai Pan national parks (Botswana) and Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe). Mid-range and luxury packages are available.

Serengeti great migration safari. This iconic safari will get you front-row seat action as the Great Wildebeest Migration makes its way through the vast Serengeti ecosystem, where most of the great migration occurs. Our chosen dates and camps are to maximise sightings based on where the herds are at the time.

WATCH: Malawian elephants on the move: View incredible footage from the recent translocation of 263 elephants from Liwonde to Kasungu (02:14). Click here to watch

Not on our watch: The Timbavati Traverse

His words bounced around my head that night around the fire as Timbavati warden Edwin Pearce briefed us on the next day’s adventure. ‘Not on our watch.’ He was referring to the scourge of rhino poaching and the fear amongst us all that rhinos would be poached to extinction in the wild. Unfortunately, the Kruger region has buckled under a massive rhino poaching onslaught, and rhinos need all the help they can get – from us all. One of the fund-raising activities to finance the ever-increasing costs of fighting the rhino war is the Timbavati Traverse – a unique walking and running marathon held in the reserve.

I was thrilled to be invited to cycle the event as an assistant guide – to help keep the runners safe from dangerous wildlife. Timbavati Private Nature Reserve is, of course, home to the Big 5…

As a veteran of many mountain bike events, I have to take my hat off to Timbavati for how well managed this event is. The race village buzzed with vibey entertainment, the food tables along the route groaned with delicious treats and the armed rangers who accompanied each running and walking group were very professional. This is one slick, superbly managed event.

And the animals certainly played along. My group had close (but safe) encounters with herds of elephants and buffaloes and with two crashes of rhinos – how serendipitous! One group of four white rhinos was so close to the track that we waited about 20 minutes before they headed off. The chilly morning mist was lifting, the robin-chats were announcing the new day with their sweet melodies, and hornbills were catching the first rays of the sun high up in the knobthorn trees. And four rhinos were parked about 30 meters away. It was a surreal moment for us all. Later that morning, we saw another three rhinos heading for cover after we disturbed their mud bath next to the track. So, rather than the usual race, this is a journey – something to be enjoyed at a gentle amble.

You and I need to step up to help our protected area managers raise the cash required to fight this war. Every little bit helps. Of course, the tourism industry plays a huge role, and many fantastic NGOs move mountains daily. But the diminishing importance that governments worldwide place on wild matters makes efforts such as this vital. It’s up to the private sector to play the role our political leaders are paid to do but fail dismally at. It is what it is.

If you enjoy walking or running, why not train up and book your place in this epic event or sponsor someone less able to afford the price ticket. Or train and raise sponsorship from friends or one of the many online crowd-funding platforms. The two distance options are a 45km run and 21km walk.

Can we win this war? Hell yes. But we must move beyond the social media chatter and the blame game. So start now – click here and learn more about the Timbavati Traverse.

This story is dedicated to Timbavati ranger Anton Mzimba who was recently murdered in what is suspected to be a poaching gang hit, and all anti-poaching staff who put their lives on the line to keep rhinos safe.

The march of Malawi’s elephants – 263 elephants translocated to Kasungu

Elephants, Malawi — Elephants sedated and loaded in Liwonde National Park

31st of July 2022 saw the conclusion of a colossal one-month operation to translocate 263 elephants from Liwonde National Park to Kasungu National Park, Malawi. This impressive undertaking marks another milestone in Malawi’s journey towards establishing the country as a conservation role model in Africa.

The translocation was jointly managed by the International Fund for Animal Welfare (IFAW) and Malawi’s Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW), with the elephants being provided by Majete Wildlife Reserve and Liwonde National Park (both managed by African Parks).

Kasunga National Park is Malawi’s second-largest national park. Once home to a population of around 1,200 elephants during the 1970s, rampant poaching desecrated elephant numbers, and just 49 individuals remained in 2015. Since 2015, IFAW has been working with the DNPW to address law enforcement, wildlife crime, infrastructure and capacity within the park. With the park’s future secured, IFAW and the DNPW formed a partnership to boost populations and fast-track restoration efforts. With the generous support of non-profit Elephant Cooperation and various other philanthropic funders, 263 Liwonde elephants were darted, loaded into trucks, and transported 350km north to their new home.

African Parks’ involvement in Malawi dates back to 2003 when the organisation first partnered with DNPW to assume managerial responsibility for Majete Wildlife Reserve. Following Majete’s spectacular revival, Liwonde National Park and Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve joined the African Parks portfolio in 2015, followed shortly by Mangochi Forest Reserve in 2018.

DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.

In keeping with a proud African Parks tradition, these parks have flourished, with burgeoning tourist numbers, improved local community relations and increased security. Their success has become a springboard for Malawian conservation and benefited protected spaces across the country. With poaching all but eliminated, Liwonde National Park in southern Malawi has essentially reached its carrying capacity for elephants. Thus, a unique scenario exists where the national park can act as a “source population” to augment elephant populations in protected areas across the country.

In addition to the elephants, the move also saw 431 additional wildlife, including impala, buffalo, warthog, sable, and waterbuck translocated to supplement Kasunga’s remaining wildlife. Brighton Kumchedwa, Malawi’s Director of National Parks and Wildlife, said of the initiative that “[t]he addition of elephants and other wildlife species to Kasungu National Park will benefit Malawi tourism and communities through job creation, thereby fuelling a conservation-driven economy”.

This is not the first time that Liwonde’s elephants have moved across the country as part of Malawian conservation efforts. In 2016, the largest elephant translocation ever undertaken saw 500 elephants moved from Liwonde and Majete to repopulate Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve in central Malawi. The translocations have also helped alleviate pressure on Liwonde’s recovering habitats and reduced human-wildlife conflict on the densely populated fringes of the park.

The success of this project is a testament to the DNPW’s strategy of working with partners to secure its natural resources and maintain healthy ecosystems in the country’s parks. Returning animals to protected spaces is essential in supporting the nascent tourism industry and establishing the country as a world-class safari destination.

THIS WEEK

Please take your seats, dinner is about to be served. Tswalu Kalahari Reserve, South Africa

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Wild Akagera + painted wolf pups + responsible safaris

1,8 metric tons – that’s the amount of carbon dioxide I added to the climate change problem during my recent safari to Kenya. I want desperately not to have my travel choices contribute to destroying our precious ecosystems and biodiversity. And so I tried to work out how many indigenous trees to plant to offset my personal CO2 emissions for this safari. Because I love planting indigenous trees.

My online research generated a myriad of requests to donate to NGOs undertaking to plant trees on my behalf. That sounds like a neat way to quickly offload my guilt without much personal effort. But it turns out that the science behind this solution is not as simple as that because many factors come into play. One suggestion that stuck out during my research is that preserving existing (and restoring degraded) habitats is a more effective strategy than planting young trees.

Coincidently, during my trip to Kenya, I spent time with a wonderful NGO securing tracts of indigenous forest by purchasing land from local communities and creating sustainable forest-related livelihoods for those communities. Of course, this project is not unique – there are numerous worldwide. But this project relates specifically to my safari. And so, I plan to mitigate my footprint by donating to this cause. More about this fantastic project when teamAG publishes my writings in the coming months.

Feel free to treat my carbon footprint mitigation attempts with scorn or to share your own strategies in the comments section below (app only) or in the forum section of our app.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

The quintessential Rwandan safari consists of trekking to find gorillas and other primates, and exploring rainforests and volcanoes. But did you know that Rwanda has a Big Five park, which is a refuge for savannah-adapted wildlife? Akagera National Park’s status as a premier safari destination has risen over the past decade, in large part thanks to African Parks’ involvement. Read our first story below to find out all there is to know about travelling to this corner of the continent.

This week, we are also delving into research that shows there is order in wild dog hunts. Scientists have long been intrigued by the social structures and hierarchies of wild dog packs. But new findings confirmed a fascinating approach in pack dynamics: when the pack makes a kill, pups eat first. Read more about what all this means in our second story below.

In the past few weeks, we’ve been analysing the issues surrounding leopard habituation. Our in-depth analysis, undertaken by Jamie Paterson and Maxine Gaines, delves into the unintended consequences this has for leopards.
This story is now available on our public website for easy access – see below.

Happy celebrating Africa!

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Now and again, a little tidbit of new research comes along that completely unsettles my understanding of how certain things work.

If you (like me and many other guides I know) were under the impression that woodpeckers’ skulls act as shock absorbers, prepare to have your world rocked. Did you know that woodpeckers’ heads function as stiff hammers rather than safety helmets? This, despite the fact that the shock of the repeated impacts exceeds the concussion threshold for humans.

I have a headache just thinking about it.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/akagera-national-park/
AKAGERA, RWANDA
Akagera National Park is Rwanda’s last refuge for savannah-adapted wildlife, and safeguards Central Africa’s largest protected wetland

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/kids-eat-first-research-on-wild-dog-feeding-habits/
WILD DOGS
New research shows that there is order in wild dog hunts, and pups are the first to eat at a carcass

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/habituating-leopards/
HABITUATING LEOPARDS
Does the habituation of leopards by the tourism industry create problems and result in unintended consequences for leopards?

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

This week we feature 2 epic short safaris for the time-pressured traveller and those wanting to top up their longer safaris with the ultimate finale

Botswana’s salt pans – 4 days
This could be your zen moment – those vast desolate pans and giant ancient baobabs bring out the philosopher in us all. Or take advantage of the many activities on offer (how about that salt pan sleep-out?) to end your safari with a bang. Prices to suit all budgets

Gorilla trekking in Rwanda – 3 days
This primal experience is on most ultimate traveller bucket lists. Why not add 3 days of gorilla trekking to your Maasai Mara or Serengeti safari to create the ultimate dream vacation?

DID YOU KNOW that you will find more than 340 camps & lodges on our app? And we feature ready-made packages that even the most experienced traveller will drool over. Login, select ‘Travel with us’ from the menu above and search based on place and other important choices (such as lodges in non-malaria areas or packages that include the Big 5). You can add your selection of lodges and packages to your wishlist – which will remain saved until you choose to edit or delete.

New safaris in the works

This cheetah and her cubs posed beautifully for our CEO Simon last week in Tsavo East National Park, Kenya. Simon has just returned from his safari, which was spent researching exciting destinations to add to our list of recommended lodges, and finding new adventures for our travel experts to add to your next itinerary. Watch this space for exciting things to come!

WATCH: How African wild dogs keep the ecosystem in check: In Gorongosa, Mozambique, where the species was wiped out completely, an ambitious scheme reintroduced them – with positive consequences for the whole ecosystem (07:31). Click here to watch

Kids eat first: research on wild dog feeding habits

Kids eat first: new research on wild dog feeding habits — Research shows that wild dog pups are granted exclusive access as soon as they arrive to feed on a carcass

One of the most endearing characteristics of the African wild dog (painted wolf) is the bond between pack members, particularly when they have pups in their midst. While typically only the dominant female will breed each year, every individual cooperates in raising the next generation, bringing food back to the den for both the mother and the youngsters. Recent research quantifies how this altruistic approach plays out when the pups leave the den, and the pack makes a kill: essentially, the pups get to eat first.

Researchers from the University of New South Wales, the Taronga Western Plains Zoo and Wild Entrust Africa (formerly known as the Botswana Predator Conservation Trust) analysed nearly three decades of observational data from the Okavango Delta and surrounding areas. Individual painted wolves were identified by the unique coat patterns, and the research focused on established breeding packs rather than newly established packs without pups. While previous studies have qualitatively and anecdotally described the exclusive access given to painted wolf pups at a kill, the authors of the current study were able to quantify (assign values that can be statistically analysed to) these feeding patterns.

African wild dogs are cursorial predators (they run through the vegetation and flush their prey), and pack members are often separated while hunting. The adults that catch the prey will start feeding (allowing them access to the most nutritious organs first) until the rest of the pack members catch up. If the pack has pups, they are granted exclusive access to the carcass as soon as they arrive. The adult dogs will sit back and wait “patiently” for their opportunity to feed. This is in stark contrast to most other social predators, where access to food is generally determined by rank and strength. For example, lion cubs that arrive at a carcass will have to fight for their place at the dinner table and often have to wait until the pride adults have sated their initial hunger.

Once the painted wolf puppies have eaten their fill, the dominant members of the pack will feed, followed by the next youngest in line. This confirms that painted wolves do follow an age-based feeding system. Consequently, older and less dominant members of the pack may find little meat remaining by the time they get the opportunity to feed. Despite this, the researchers observed little overt aggression around kills (again, in contrast to lion feeding behaviour), even from the dominant pair.

For any predator, hunting carries an inherent risk of injury. For the wild dog, high-speed chases ending in a struggle with prey can result in broken bones, torn ligaments, and myriad other potential injuries. So, if older pack members are unlikely to get priority access, what incentivises their participation given the potential risks involved? The authors postulate that older dogs are motivated to actively participate in kills to feed before the younger pack members arrive. However, there are occasions when the pack is separated during the hunt. If remaining pack members are unaware that prey has been caught, the painted wolves responsible for the kill will feed for a while then circle back to recruit the rest of the pack. This speedy arrival of the rest of the pack likely ensures more eyes and ears on alert for kleptoparasites and larger predators like lions, which are a significant cause of natural wild dog mortalities.

Of course, this system also ensures that the pups are provisioned while they cannot hunt for themselves. The dominant breeding female is also guaranteed access to valuable carcass parts once the pups have fed. In packs where intra-pack relatedness is high, the subdominant pack members gain by helping to raise litters of close kin.

Like wild dogs, human beings also developed a food sharing system at some point in our evolutionary history. Though it is difficult to fully contextualise, the authors suggest that “a detailed understanding of food sharing in African wild dogs may contribute to our understanding of the origins and implications of sharing more broadly.”

Africa Geographic would like to extend thanks to first author, Dr Neil Jordan, for allowing the use of his personal graphics of the study findings. Dr Jordan is affiliated with the Centre for Ecosystem Science, School of Biological, Earth and Environmental Sciences (BEES) of the University of New South Wales (UNSW), Sydney; the Taronga Institute of Science and Learning of the Taronga Western Plains Zoo; and Wild Entrust Africa.

Resources

The full article can be accessed through a paywall here: Jordan, N.R., Golabek, K.A., Behr, D.M. et al. “Priority of access to food and its influence on social dynamics of an endangered carnivore”. Behav Ecol Sociobiol 76, 13 (2022).

Wild Entrust Africa is an AG club project. Learn more about the project and how to support their work here (follow the instructions below to join the club).

Want to learn more about wild dogs? Here are five fascinating facts on the canids.

Want to spot wild dogs on your next safari? Here are the top 6 places to see painted wolves.

Akagera National Park

Every protected space in Africa comes with its own story, with elements from every genre: drama, thriller, romance and tragedy. The fates and fortunes of these parks are irrevocably bound to those of the people around them, and no two chronicles are ever the same. Each visitor to an African wilderness experiences a snapshot in time, a chapter or two at most. But for those fortunate enough to visit Rwanda’s Akagera National Park, these may just be the best chapters in the entire saga. In the past decade, Akagera has established itself as a park on the rise – demonstrating an almost unbelievable transformation into Rwanda’s only Big 5 park and one of the premier African safari destinations on the continent.

Akagera National Park

The 1,122km² (112,200 hectares) Akagera National Park is situated on the eastern edge of Rwanda, where the boundary with Tanzania is marked by the sinuous bends of the Akagera River (for which the park is named). Akagera safeguards Central Africa’s largest protected wetland, consisting of a complex system of lakes linked by papyrus-lined swamps. Away from the marshes, the jagged lines of animal pathways weave across vast plains and sweeping highlands like a network of veins, a testament to Akagera’s status as Rwanda’s last refuge for savannah-adapted wildlife.

Find out about Akagera for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.

As clouds gather above the rolling sandstone hills and elephants feed peacefully in woodland valleys below, the breathtaking vistas are almost primaeval. The landscape, teeming with life at every level, seems so eternal that it is hard to imagine that its very existence was so recently threatened. Yet less than three decades ago, during the Rwandan Civil War and the years of recovery that followed, the park was invaded and denuded, its wildlife decimated by poaching and human-wildlife conflict.

Sizeable herds of buffalo, topi and zebra are everywhere in Akagera, taking advantage of bountiful grasses

Akagera’s rehabilitation can be attributed to the partnership between African Parks and the Rwanda Development Board. They entered into a joint management agreement in 2009 and began the day-to-day running of the park in 2010. Their progressive stewardship stayed the destruction and turned the narrative from looming catastrophe to one of long-term, sustainable conservation. Thanks to considerable investment in the park’s infrastructure and security, existing wildlife populations began to recover, bolstered by ambitious reintroduction programmes. Tourist numbers, both local and international, grew in leaps and bounds, and by 2019, Akagera was 90% self-financing.

Most importantly, community involvement has always been a fundamental tenant of African Park’s approach to managing all the parks under their guardianship, and Akagera is no different. Today, 300,000 people on the park boundary directly benefit from its existence, while educational programmes and support for community enterprises have reshaped local perceptions. Nearly half of the visitors to the park in 2019 were Rwandan citizens.

Maasai giraffe were among some of the first large mammals to be reintroduced after poaching in the latter half of the 20th century wiped out existing populations

The return of the animals

Under certain circumstances, nature’s remarkable innate resilience allows wildlife numbers to recover independently, and the only human intervention needed is to provide them with a safe space to do so. This is always the preferred approach, but more dramatic measures are necessary when population numbers are too low to recover, if genetic sustainability is compromised, or a species is locally extinct. In Akagera, the restoration to its natural state has necessitated several large-scale wildlife reintroductions that have effectively reversed several local extinctions.

Savannah elephants and Maasai giraffe were among some of the first large mammal species to be reintroduced after poaching in the latter half of the 20^th century wiped out existing populations. A small herd of young elephants arrived in the park in 1975, with giraffes following some ten years later. Today the park’s growing elephant population is estimated to be around 100 individuals, while some 80 giraffes are wandering its confines.

White rhinos have also been reintroduced into the park

Akagera is also reclaiming its title as one of Africa’s rhino havens. In the 1970s, the park was estimated to be home to over 50 eastern black rhinos, but widescale poaching hit them particularly hard. The last sighting of a black rhino occurred in 2007 before they were considered locally extinct. Ten years later, the park was deemed to be sufficiently secure for their return, and 18 eastern black rhinos made the cross-continent journey from South Africa to their new home in Rwanda. They were joined two years later by a further five rhinos sourced from European zoos – the first such operation of its kind. Despite their somewhat different (definitely colder) start in life, the zoo rhinos seem to be adapting well to life in their ancestral homeland. At the end of 2021, the first white rhinos arrived from Phinda Private Game Reserve in South Africa in what was the single largest rhino translocation ever conducted.

The park’s lions suffered a similar fate during the 1990s – all 300 lions in the park were killed before the 21^st century. A founder population of seven lions was sourced from South Africa in 2015, followed by two males in 2017 to increase genetic diversity. To suggest that the lions have taken to their new home would be something of an understatement – the population has quadrupled in seven years. Spotted hyenas and leopards are also found in healthy numbers in the park.

Lions once again can call the Akagera home

Akagera’s flourishing ecosystem

Though the reintroductions of specific iconic species were prodigious enterprises in their own right, the natural recovery of Akagera’s landscapes and existing wildlife populations has been equally impressive. At the start of 2010, wildlife numbers were estimated to be fewer than 5,000 and are now believed to be well over 13,000 and ever-increasing.

Savannah elephants now also call the park home

Sizeable herds of buffalo, topi and zebra are everywhere, taking advantage of the bountiful grasses, while defassa waterbuck are perfectly at home wading through the swamps and reeds past pods of hippo. The endangered roan antelope may be somewhat elusive, but the towering statuesque eland are unmistakable, dwarfing surrounding impala and duiker. Klipspringer show off tip-toe agility on the rocky crags of hilly slopes. The primates are represented by large olive baboon and vervet monkey troops, the consummate survivors. Sightings of blue monkey are less frequent, but they have been spotted over recent years, firmly disproving the belief that they are extinct in the park.

Sizeable herds of zebra are found in Akagera

Akagera National Park is also one of the best birding regions in Africa, if not the world, with over a whopping 480 species recorded in the park. The diversity of habitats on display means that fervid birders can apply their skills in several different ways, from peering through reeds and rushes for a papyrus gonalek to scanning the skies for the grasshopper buzzard, or listening out for the call of a red-faced barbet in a thicket. Other notable species include Tabora and Carruthers’ cicticolas, white-crested turaco and northern brown-throated weaver. Shoebills have been seen lurking in the swamps, and, most recently, a sighting of the somewhat unfairly named plain nightjar had the birding chatrooms all aflutter.

Birding in Akagera is prolific – keep an eye out for grey crowned cranes

Explore & stay

With the plans for Akagera’s continued upward trajectory firmly rooted in tourism, every effort has been made to make the park the perfect destination for visitors from every walk of life. Each of the activities on offer was carefully selected to show off the park’s many strengths and provide the ideal way to explore every inch of the many varied habitats on display. Naturally, game drives (including night drives) form the backbone of the park experience, but guided walks, specialised birding tours and boat cruises on forest-fringed Lake Ihema offer an entirely different perspective. Very unusually, travellers can even opt for the “behind the scenes” tour of the park headquarters, where they can talk to park officials and learn more about the strenuous business of keeping a national park operational. Cultural community experiences also provide the opportunity to learn more about Rwanda’s remarkable people while contributing to local enterprises.

Though Akagera is accessible year-round, the best time to visit is during the dry season, from June until September, when the wildlife viewing is at its best and rain is less likely to be disruptive. For the budget traveller, there are four public campsites: Shakani on the shores of Lake Shakani (where fishing is permitted), Mutamba at the highest point in the park, Muyumbu overlooking Lake Ihema and Lake Shakani, and Mihindi, near the shores of Lake Mihindi. Karenge Bush Camp is a good mid-range option, offering furnished tented accommodation. There is also a few high-end accommodation options inside the park, including Ruzizi Tented Lodge, which is fully catered.

You can see more on Karenge camp here:

When it comes to safari stereotypes, Rwanda is invariably associated with gorilla trekking, but in truth, this tiny country offers the full African adventure. Akagera National Park is the ideal complement to a gorilla trekking mission into Volcanoes National Park or a canopy tour of Nyungwe National Park. For those wanting to learn more about the bird and mammal offerings in Rwanda, Christian Boix’s (Africa Geographic director and one of Africa’s top birding guides) book Wild Rwanda is the region’s most authoritative “where to find” birds and mammals guide.

Everybody loves a comeback story, but it is even more uplifting when the main character is a vital piece of African wilderness. Akagera National Park is already unrecognisably improved from the ravaged land of twenty years ago – proof that responsible tourism and sustainable conservation bring long-term security to both people and wildlife.

Resources

Read about the intricate link between conservation and community in Akagera National Park.

Read about the rise of tourism in Akagera National Park here.

Lions were reintroduced into Akagera in 2015. Read more about the occasion here.

Habituating leopards

In May 2022, the news broke of the tragic death of leopard Hosana, one of the well-known leopards of the Sabi Sand Game Reserve in South Africa. The announcement inspired a social media furore (to the point that #Hosana trended on Twitter). It also reopened several complex conservation/tourism concerns for public dissection, analysis and, on occasion, misinterpretation. For the authors of this article, with deep personal connections to Hosana and Sabi Sand Game Reserve , his death inspired a desire to tackle some of these issues head-on.

Hosana’s end at the hands of a counter-poaching unit (CPU) may have lit the fire, but much of what follows comes from years of observing, questioning and researching conventional beliefs in old habits and established practices. The concerns raised extend beyond Hosana and deal with complex topics like guide, tracker and field-staff training, habituation, tourism ethics, and human-wildlife conflict. Given the intricacy of the issues at play, we have attempted to address each topic thoroughly to avoid misinterpretation and false conclusions.

When named and known leopards are killed in conflict with humans, the automatic assumption appears to be that habituation must be at fault – often with conflicting ideas of what that means. We set out to investigate the validity of this assumption as systematically and scientifically as possible to avoid questionable leaps of logic, speculation and hysteria. We approached scientific organisations, experienced guides, trackers and reserve managers and sifted through multiple research papers to examine the question from every angle.

We found that, unsurprisingly, human-wildlife conflict continues to be one of the leading causes of anthropogenic leopard mortalities (Viollaz 2016). However, there is no evidence that habituated leopards are disproportionately affected. Nor is there any indication that habituated leopards are more likely to be dangerous to people or livestock in South Africa. However, we did confirm that there is a dearth of appropriate training for wildlife encounters offered to most field operatives and counter-poaching units across the country. This is a danger to the humans working within wild spaces and the wildlife they are trying to protect.

The following article makes continuous reference to the Sabi Sand Game Reserve (hereafter the Sabi Sands) in South Africa. This is not an indictment of the reserve. The area has one of the highest densities of leopards on the continent and is the “home of leopard habituation” as we know it. It is an invaluable reference point for this discussion. Our conclusions are specific to South Africa, where national parks and reserves are fenced. While many of the issues raised could be applied to national parks, private reserves and private concessions in other parts of Africa, our research was region-specific.

Leopard habituation

Hosana’s death inspired considerable discussion on social media around habituation, rehashing a well-worn topic that is often debated with little appreciation of what precisely it entails. So what does habituation mean?

It is crucial to be pedantic here because, otherwise, far too much bad behaviour falls under the label of “habituation”. At its simplest definition in this context, we are referring to the habituation of leopards as the removal of the strongest feelings of fear and the desire to escape from safari vehicles (and their associated sounds, smells and so on). Repeated exposure teaches the animal not to be afraid.

Habituation should not be confused with either taming or attracting animals. We would argue that the regular feeding of wildlife by visitors (as often occurs in public campsites in national parks, resulting in aggressive “problem” animals) is taming or attraction, not habituation. When a wild animal begins associating humans or vehicles with a basic need (such as food) and loses all fear, that animal has been partially tamed. Similarly, driving too close to animals or interfering with their behaviour is not bad habituation; it is bad guiding.

When “done right”, habituation results in an animal that simply ignores the humans in vehicles around it and continues to behave naturally, allowing it to be viewed with minimal impact. From the animal’s perspective, it does not expend valuable time and energy getting away from people. The importance of this cannot be overstated because most wild animals are carefully balanced on a knife-edge of survival, and running and hiding to avoid vehicles only adds to this strain and distraction.

Leopard habituation was essentially pioneered during the late 1970s at Londolozi Private Game Reserve in what is now the Sabi Sands (Hess, 1991). Through the exceptional tracking skills and abundant patience of a few individuals , a kind of trust was established. It gave rise to generations of leopards comfortable with vehicles and established the reserve as one of Africa’s top leopard-viewing destinations ( Hess, 1991; Hancock, 2000; Kure, 2003 ).

Young cubs learn by observing their habituated mothers’ reactions, so tourist-filled vehicles quickly become nothing to fear. Thus, over time, the habituation process in a reserve with a long history of leopard viewing gets easier and less intrusive. However, these are wild animals, so nuances and variations are inevitable. Leopards have distinct personalities, and specific individuals (even those from the same litter) may either prove impossible to habituate or be extremely confiding. Habituation can also be specific: a leopard that will lie in the shade of a green safari vehicle may be extremely unsettled by a white car following behind it.

Bad impressions or experiences are remembered, which is why habituation requires that each guide work respectfully with each animal to reinforce the message that humans in vehicles are not a threat. Detailed observation of their behaviour is essential: “listening” to the animal, watching their body language, switching off the vehicle while they are alert or hunting, keeping a comfortable following distance and so on. The aim is to be an impartial observer, and habituation makes that easier. However, months of careful habituation work can be undone very quickly by a few insensitive guides (which we address at a later stage).

The benefits of leopard habituation

Of the many threats to the planet’s wild fauna and flora, habitat loss has perhaps the most profound and far-reaching effects on species and ecosystems (Purvis et al ., 2000). In the face of inexorable human advancement, space for wild animals is ever-shrinking, and Africa is no exception. Ecotourism and photographic safaris have made an almost incalculable contribution towards mitigating this reality – providing a viable economic model to keep land in a (mostly) wild state and protecting wildlife in the process (Buckley, 2003; Buckley 2010, Balmford et al ., 2015; Mossaz et al ., 2015). There is no doubt that the presence of habituated leopards (and other predators) brings tourists to certain reserves to view them (Lindsey et al., 2005). How many visitors to the Sabi Sands travelled thousands of miles to see Hosana? There is an obvious relationship between tourism, the money generated from tourism and the ability to pay for conservation, buy and protect more land, maintain fences, provide jobs for desperately poor people and so on (Buckley 2003, Buckley, 2010).

The links between habituation and scientific knowledge are perhaps not as well known (except for the work done with the great apes). Yet the conservation of many secretive (and potentially dangerous) species hinges on this knowledge. Cryptic carnivores like leopards are challenging to study ( Balme et al . 2009 ), and scientific work on these species primarily relies on camera trapping and collaring animals. Collaring poses many risks to the animals in question ( Hayward et al. 2012 ), while camera trapping is far less intrusive ( du Preez et al. 2014 ). Regardless, collaring and camera trapping are limited in terms of what they reveal about the behaviour of the studied species. Habituation of leopards has opened our eyes to much that was hidden before (Balme et al., 2013): grandmothers adopting and successfully raising their grandchildren ( Balme et al. 2012 ), males tolerating adult cubs (Pirie et al. 2014) as well as sharing kills and mates with their independent male offspring. The philopatry of female leopards was revealed to guides by habituated leopards (Hess, 1991) years before being confirmed by telemetry studies (Balme et al. 2017; Fattebert et al., 2015; Fattebert et al., 2016). Through habituation we have been granted extraordinarily detailed insights into the secret lives of these beautiful cryptic cats. This knowledge is critical for conservation. Many assume that to conserve a species, we just need an understanding of population numbers and habitat and prey requirements. But behavioural science is crucial too.

A controversial example of how habituation can influence conservation decisions relates to recent leopard hunting regulations implemented in South Africa. These allow for male leopards of seven years or older to be legally hunted, provided you have the correct permits ( DEA 2018 ). The justification is that at seven years old, they are mature males who have likely sired cubs and passed on their genes to the next generation ( Balme et al. 2012 ) and are therefore expendable.

Every guide we have ever spoken to disagrees with the logic behind this. A seven-year-old male is only starting to establish himself as a dominant male with a territory. We know this because of years of habituating and following habituated males. Hosana was over six years old at the time of his death, and as far as we are aware, he has potentially only fathered three cubs that survive him. Two of these (the Nkuwa female’s cub and the Serengeti female’s cub) are still relatively young and very vulnerable to infanticide when a new male moves into his vacant territory. The other potential cub is a young male born of the Nkangala female. He is not entirely independent yet, and has a long road to travel before we can say for sure that he will survive and breed. Without the knowledge that comes from careful and long-term observations of habituated leopards, we would have to accept the suggestion of seven years being a reasonable age to hunt a male leopard. Habituation provides conservationists with crucial information to advise the government on the ethical management of leopards – management critical to the survival of the species.

Leopard habituation on foot

There is a fundamental distinction between habituating animals to people in vehicles and habituating them to people on foot. Truly wild animals are almost always human-averse. The only exceptions are wild animals on islands where human presence has been non-existent or infrequent over evolutionary time. Most unhabituated animals have an innate fear or wariness of people and will flee or hide (or, in rare circumstances, attack) when confronted by a person. Some of this response comes from recent persecution, but much of this wariness must have its roots in evolution. Humans are alpha predators and have been for thousands of years. Animals know to expect humans around manmade infrastructure (such as lodges) but respond differently to the sight of a person walking through the bushveld.

The upshot is that a wild animal comfortable around safari vehicles filled with tourists is not automatically relaxed with people on foot. However, in reserves in many parts of Africa, tracking is the only reliable way to locate leopards for the safari vehicles, so a slightly different desensitisation process is followed. Expert trackers follow tracks and find the animal. When the animal is sighted, the tracker and guide back away slowly to indicate that they are not a threat. The leopard may run initially but, given their curious natures, seldom moves far, allowing the tracker and guide team to return with the vehicle and drive to the spot where the animal was last seen.

As this process is repeated, some leopards gradually learn that people on foot come and go and do not represent a threat. This is not done with the intention of walking guests to these animals or fully habituating them on foot, far from it. Most reserves have strict policies against tracking cats with tourists in tow. Though young individuals may initially be curious and even approach or follow a tracking team, they invariably grow out of this behaviour. A wild adult leopard will move away from people approaching too closely on foot.

Hosana on foot

Jamie Paterson’s personal account:

During my time spent presenting live safaris for WildEarth on Djuma Private Game Reserve from 2015 to 2019, I believe that we as a film crew spent more time than was appropriate with Hosana on foot. I have spent months reflecting on this conclusion and seeking advice from those more expert than myself. We only started approaching him and his sister without the vehicle when they were just under a year old, but they would still have been at a highly impressionable age. It was not uncommon for us to spend extended periods sitting within their comfort zones.

Whether or not our actions contributed to his death is impossible to know and may even be unlikely. However, upon reflection, I do think spending so much time with him on foot had the potential to make him more vulnerable to anthropogenic conflict. This is my personal belief and one that is not necessarily shared by those who worked with me at the time. It is challenging to view objectively because Hosana’s death was, whatever the circumstances, a freak event. Like all adult leopards we had experience with, we know that he grew out of his youthful curiosity and began moving away from people on foot. Had he not encountered the counter-poaching unit (CPU) that day, he probably would have gone on to live a natural life with no harm done.

But in my opinion, the fact that Hosana began to behave differently as an adult does not mean that the lesson we instilled in him over the years (that people hanging around on foot do not represent a threat) was forgotten. To be clear, I do not for one second believe that this process would have made him more dangerous to people or even more likely to charge. But whatever the circumstances surrounding his death, the risk was always that if push came to shove (defending a kill, for instance), we had already shaped his natural instincts and responses to the sight of people moving into his personal space.

I raise this now not as a confession (a few thousand people watched us do it live) but because I feel there is a fundamental lesson to be learnt from this. I know that during my time at WildEarth, we as a guiding team strove to maintain a high standard of ethics and keep our impact to a minimum. We did not spend time with those cubs to exploit them for financial or narrative gain – the thought that we could be jeopardising their futures would have horrified us. We were exceedingly cautious about reading their behaviour, never frightening them and never venturing (or allowing them) too close. We experienced something magical with Hosana and wanted to share it with the world to build a connection between our audiences and a wild leopard. The circumstances all aligned – his mother was relaxed, he was young and male and curious, and so on. To my knowledge, no other leopard followed by WildEarth’s live safaris has been habituated to people on foot to the same extent.

We all have 20/20 hindsight, and I cannot speak for others, but I look back on my actions with regret. I know of guides who leave their trackers on foot with young leopards while at other sightings and those that spend their day off sitting with their favourite leopards. I am in no position to pass on instruction, but we (and the experts we have spoken to) cannot condone this. I hope future film crews and guides will remember this message when deciding how to view an individual animal on foot, particularly a relaxed predator. We must constantly remind ourselves that we are not the only people that an animal may encounter on foot and that the animal may move away to an area where they are unknown and where their accommodating nature could be misunderstood.

leopards — Famous Sabi Sands leopard Hosana

Human-wildlife conflict

Human-wildlife conflict is an enormous topic and one that is largely beyond the scope of this article. Nearly two-thirds of leopard distribution in South Africa fall outside protected areas ( Jacobson et al., 2016 ). Leopards are highly adaptable, have a broad geographic range and readily adapt to human-dominated environments, making them a leading carnivore conflict species in South Africa ( Seoraj-Pillai, 2016 ). Snaring and the poaching of leopards for their pelts are also significant threats to leopard safety.

Leopards have probably been lurking around human habitation, largely unseen, for as long as there have been humans and leopards in the same place. In South Africa, there is no evidence to suggest that habituated leopards from private reserves are more likely to endanger livestock or people. All the studies we accessed on leopard livestock killings and other types of conflict come from research conducted in areas where leopards are unhabituated (example: Constant, 2014; Pitman et al., 2017; Seoraj-Pillai, 2016; Viollaz et al., 2021 ). Leopard attacks on people, which are rare, seldom seem to involve habituated individuals (we know of two incidents involving habituated leopards during our respective careers). Our research into historic leopard attacks all involved unhabituated animals (a reminder that we consider animals around camps that have been fed or associate people with food as tamed, not habituated). Habituated leopards are still wild animals – they may go on to kill livestock or injure people – but they do not appear to be more likely to do so because they have grown up in private reserves around people.

But what of the reverse? Does habituation make these leopards more vulnerable? Young male leopards disperse in search of territory. Some may get lucky and find themselves a territorial vacuum down the road from their natal range, but others must seek further afield. The longest recorded dispersal was a subadult male that travelled a minimum distance of 353km (194.5km in a straight line) through three different countries: Mozambique, Swaziland and South Africa ( Fattebert et al. 2013 ). Thus the chances of a young habituated male leopard leaving the sanctuary of the reserve he was born in are higher than for a female.

Some young males simply disappear, never to be seen again. The majority will have died of natural causes – dispersal is a dangerous time in a young leopard’s life. However, the authors wondered if these young dispersal male leopards that have spent their lives near people and walking through lodges may be blithely walking into a far more dangerous world, robbed of an instinctive wariness that might have increased their survival odds.

Fortunately, neither expert opinion nor our research supports this conclusion. Balme et al. (2019) investigated the population dynamics of Sabi Sands and found that few leopards leave the reserve’s boundaries. According to their data, human factors have accounted for less than 2% of known leopard deaths in and around the Sabi Sands since 1975. By comparison, over half of all known leopard deaths in the Phinda-uMkhuze complex between 2002 and 2012 were anthropogenic, including legal destruction by farmers due to livestock depredation, snaring and poaching ( Balme et al ., 2009 ). (It should be noted that the leopard population in the Phinda-uMkhuze complex has since largely recovered due to policy changes.)

This may not be an apple-to-apple comparison, but these two protected areas share similar habitats, levels of prey abundance and natural leopard densities ( Naude et al. , 2020 ). As such, these are revealing statistics. They tell us that other more pressing factors are at play than habituation, such as fence quality, neighbouring-land use and even variations in local cultural perspectives of leopards. So, we can but conclude that habituated leopards – like Hukumuri and others – may still die in human-wildlife conflict because it is one of the significant threats facing leopards in South Africa today. But not because they are habituated to vehicles or people.

The importance of training

This is one of the most important conversations to come out of Hosana’s death and one that we believe to be far more pressing than the impact of habituation: the training of guides, counter-poaching units and field operatives for wildlife encounters. Guide, expert tracker and author Alex Van Den Heever recently informed us that over 90% of South Africa’s field rangers he has evaluated in tracking skills – those walking the bushveld daily – are not sufficiently skilled to manage wildlife encounters. This aligns with the authors’ personal experiences and is a deplorable state of affairs. It is incumbent upon reserve and park authorities to ensure that the teams employed to operate within their wild spaces are fully trained.

Approaching this topic without seeming to point fingers is nigh on impossible, and yet that is not the intention. This is not to say that every reserve and national park is employing poorly trained CPUs or field operatives. Those involved in counter-poaching operations put their lives on the line to keep our wilderness areas safe for the myriad species that inhabit them. We salute them and are forever indebted to them for being the soldiers in the war against poaching. However, if we as guides need to question our motives and ethics around habituation, and ask some tough questions, perhaps the CPUs and field rangers operating in these areas also need to question if they could do things differently.

Anyone (be they guides, trackers, CPUs, field rangers, security staff and even hospitality staff) working in a reserve or national park where wildlife will be encountered should be appropriately trained for such events. In places where animals are habituated, this training needs to consider that the wildlife may be more relaxed around people on foot and may not behave as expected or move off as readily if approached.

It is telling that over the many decades of living alongside habituated leopards in the Sabi Sands, incidents of conflict within the reserve are limited to a handful of isolated events. To the best of our knowledge (and that of those we questioned), no guide has ever had to shoot a leopard in self-defence, on foot or from a vehicle. That is as it should be. The number of leopard/human encounters on foot in the Sabi Sands is exceptionally high because, as mentioned above, they are tracked by guides and trackers for vehicle sightings. Tracking these cats often results in finding mothers and cubs and leopards with kills. In these circumstances, one would assume leopards might react defensively or aggressively, but this is rarely the case. This is due partly to the habituation process and partly to the skill of the guides and trackers at not provoking the animal, remaining neutral and appearing unthreatening.

Two vastly different forms of training are offered to those who walk in the bushveld. One approach is that of “sensitivity comes first”. Reputable guide-training facilities focus not only on rifle handling and shooting but also train guides not to provoke an animal to the point that it feels the need to charge. Through countless scenarios, training walks, shadowing experienced trackers, Big-5 pressure testing and unarmed walk experiences, guides are equipped with the experience, confidence and knowledge to approach animals on foot without threatening them. The overwhelming message in good training is that if an animal charges you, it is invariably your fault. You have to use your training to de-escalate the situation to ensure the safety of the animal, your guests, and yourself. Sensitive training emphasises that it is not the rifle that gets you out of a tricky situation but your calm assessment and reaction. The rifle is there for legal reasons, and we, as guides, must be appropriately trained to use it. But the focus is on respect for the animals and one’s ability to get out of encounters without provoking the animal to the point that it has no option but to attack.

Then there is the kind of training we will refer to as reactive training. The emphasis here is on rifle handling, speed and shot placement – how to react quickly with a rifle and put the target down as fast as possible. Unfortunately, reactive training is prevalent in the guiding industry and even more so for CPUs sent out into reserves to search for poachers. Maxine has trained guides in three African countries and has spoken to rangers in national parks and guides in Botswana and Zimbabwe – their training follows an almost identical approach. Some reserves and countries still require that you provoke an elephant or buffalo to charge and then shoot it as part of your training to be a guide (ZPGA 2022 ). During their careers as guides, both authors have attended “dangerous game” workshops and training sessions for rangers and guides that focus mainly on shot placement and rifle handling skills over reading an animal’s behaviour and making appropriate choices. The rifle instinctively becomes the first resort, the best defence against wild animals. There is a disconnect here, and we believe the ecotourism industry, particularly in Southern Africa, needs to evolve beyond this.

Naturally, CPUs need specialised training to face the very real threat of armed poachers. Walking with wildlife can be dangerous, and we acknowledge that there may be instances where there is no choice but to shoot an animal. There is an undeniable need for secrecy around how CPUs are trained. We are also aware that in many instances, CPUs are armed with low-caliber weapons intended for human encounters, and not for large animals (though this arguably increases the need for a sensitive approach to animal behaviour). T here is no excuse for sending poorly trained (for wildlife encounters) teams out into the wild to endanger their own lives and those of the animals they encounter. We see no reason why the knowledge and experience of expert trackers, guides, field rangers and CPUs could not be shared to the benefit of all parties.

Van den Heever reports that Tracker Academy has started a new training programme aimed in part at addressing these concerns. The academy’s Rhino Guardians programme will equip field rangers with the skills necessary to improve tracking competence, dealing with potentially dangerous animals on foot, and bushcraft.

Ethics of the guides

This is a well-established topic, and we can add little new except to re-emphasise the importance of self-reflection as a guide. Many guides unfortunately lack the humility to understand that tourists come to Africa to see the animals, not the guide. Thus instead of making the wilderness the focus of the safari, they selfishly promote themselves at the expense of the wildlife. These are the “bad” guides – tip chasers and attention-seekers with little genuine respect for the wild – and this will only be exacerbated by the appeal of transient social media fame. Nothing we say is likely to change that. It is up to the reserve management and guiding teams to weed out these insensitive guides and either offer further training or dismiss them. In the best reserves, this does happen. In others, it does not, and the same mistakes are repeated again and again.

However, the truth is that even good, sensitive guides may find that certain boundaries can be hard to gauge because there is no one-size-fits-all instruction manual for ethical guiding. This is why regularly evaluating one’s choices and having open discussions is vital – ask questions of yourself and others. We spoke at the start of established practices – some are tried, tested and correct. But our knowledge of what is and is not appropriate is constantly evolving, and the best guiding teams adopt new ethical practices (like using spotlight filters, for example) when new evidence is presented. Trophy hunting may be rightly subject to considerable scrutiny, but there is no reason why the ecotourism industry – which also has a significant ecological impact – should be given a free pass.

Final thoughts

These questions and conversations are perhaps not new to those who have spent a lifetime discussing them around the fire in guiding and reserve management circles. However, they are important ones to continue addressing. They speak to the responsibilities of private reserves and “ecotourism”/photographic safaris and the role of the potentially lucrative tourism industry in conservation. Left unaddressed, deaths of animals such as Hosana leave room for misunderstanding and feed the growing cynicism directed at management teams of conservation areas.

We are gravely concerned by the apparent lack of training offered to guides, field operatives and CPUs that we expect to risk their lives to keep our wildlife safe. This is a recipe for future tragedies, human and animal alike.

Had we the time and tools to quantify the benefits and drawbacks of habituation (correctly understood and defined), there is no rational doubt that the benefits would outweigh any potential negatives by a substantial margin in the South African context. To reiterate, the Sabi Sands is home to one of the highest densities of leopards in Africa – higher than comparable habitats in neighbouring Kruger National Park (L Smythe, personal communication). Incidents of conflict within the reserve or in neighbouring villages (that we are aware of) are low compared to the neighbouring Kruger National Park and other regions with wild, unhabituated leopards.

Among the deluge of tributes to Hosana, we have seen a few scoff at the fuss made of this “named celebrity” leopard. We know the many arguments against naming wild animals – they have been debated to death and are largely moot in today’s world. But the impact of this one leopard, whose life was broadcast across the planet, cannot be overstated. He inspired a passion for wildlife across generations, cultures and continents. He brought people who otherwise might never have considered a safari, to Africa. He also brought Africa to those for whom travel was an impossibility. He taught us so much about leopard life. Human-wildlife conflict and habitat loss continue to be the two greatest threats to Africa’s wildlife and wild spaces. Hosana’s death should serve as a stark reminder of this. While questions around habituation and guiding practices will always be critical discussion points, we cannot lose sight of the fact that leopards (and Africa’s wild spaces) face other, far graver threats.

The authors would like to thank the following individuals for their invaluable assistance and guidance in compiling this article: Alex Van Den Heever, Dr Lucy Smythe, James Hendry, Dr Julien Fattebert and James Richard.

References (some are available through a paywall)

Balme, G.A., Hunter, L.T. and Slotow, R.O.B., 2009. Evaluating methods for counting cryptic carnivores . The Journal of Wildlife Management , 73(3), pp.433-441.

Balme, G. A., Slotow, R. and Hunter, L. T. B. 2009. Impact of Conservation Interventions on the Dynamics and Persistence of a Persecuted Leopard (P anthera pardus) Population, Biological Conservation , 142(11), pp. 2681–2690

Balme, G., Hunter, L. and Britz, N.D.W., 2012. A case of offspring adoption in leopards, Panthera pardus . South African Journal of Wildlife Research, 42(1), pp.63-66.

Balme, G. A., Hunter, L., & Braczkowski, A. R. (2012). Applicability of age-based hunting regulations for African leopards . PloS one, 7(4), e35209.

Balme, G.A., Batchelor, A., de Woronin Britz, N., Seymour, G., Grover, M., Hes, L., Macdonald, D.W. and Hunter, L.T., 2013. Reproductive success of female leopards Panthera pardus: the importance of top‐down processes. Mammal Review , 43 (3), pp.221-237.

Balme, G. A., Robinson, H. S., Pitman, R. T., & Hunter, L. T. B. 2017. Flexibility in the duration of parental care: Female leopards prioritise cub survival over reproductive output. Journal of Animal Ecology, 86(5), 1224–1234.

Balme, G. et al. 2019. Big Cats at Large: Density, Structure, and Spatio-Temporal Patterns of a Leopard Population Free of Anthropogenic Mortality , Population Ecology , 61(3), pp. 256–267.

Balmford, A., Green, J. M., Anderson, M., Beresford, J., Huang, C., Naidoo, R., et al. 2015. Walk on the wild side: estimating the global magnitude of visits to protected areas. PLoS Biology, 13(2), e1002074.

Buckley, R., 2003. Case studies in ecotourism . CABI.

Buckley, R., 2010. Conservation tourism . CABI.

Constant, N.L. 2014. A socio-ecological approach towards understanding conflict between leopards (Panthera pardus) and humans in South Africa: Implications for leopard conservation and farming livelihoods. Ph.D., Durham University, Durham, UK.

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du Preez, B.D., Loveridge, A.J. and Macdonald, D.W., 2014. To bait or not to bait: a comparison of camera-trapping methods for estimating leopard Panthera pardus density . Biological Conservation , 176, pp.153-161.

Fattebert, J., Balme, G., Dickerson, T., Slotow, R., & Hunter, L. (2015). Density-dependent natal dispersal patterns in a leopard population recovering from over-harvest. PLoS ONE, 10(4)

Fattebert, J., Balme, G., Robinson, H. S., Dickerson, T., Slotow, R., & Hunter, L. (2016). Population recovery highlights spatial organisation dynamics in adult leopards. Journal of Zoology, 299(3), 153–162.

Hancock, D (2000) A Time with Leopards. Black Eagle Publishing, Cape Town, South Africa.

Hayward, M.W., Somers, M.J., Kerley, G.I., Perrin, M.R., Bester, M.N., Dalerum, F., San, E.D.L., Hoffman, L.C., Marshal, J.P., Mills, M.G. and Nel, J.A., 2012. Animal ethics and ecotourism . African Journal of Wildlife Research , 42(2).

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Higham, J. E. S. and Shelton, E. J. (2011) Tourism and Wildlife Habituation: Reduced Population Fitness or Cessation of Impact?,” Tourism Management , 32(6), pp. 1290–1298.

Jacobson, A. P., Gerngross, P., Lemeris, J. R., Jr, Schoonover, R. F., Anco, C., Breitenmoser-Würsten, C., Durant, S. M., Farhadinia, M. S., Henschel, P., Kamler, J. F., Laguardia, A., Rostro-García, S., Stein, A. B., & Dollar, L. (2016). Leopard ( Panthera pardus ) status, distribution, and the research efforts across its range . PeerJ, 4, e1974.

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Mann, G., Pitman, R., Broadfield, J., Taylor, J., Whittington-Jones, G., Rogan, M., Dubay, S., and Balme, G. (2018). South African Leopard Monitoring Project, Annual report for the South African National Biodiversity Institute.

Mossaz, A., Buckley, R.C. and Castley, J.G., 2015. Ecotourism contributions to conservation of African big cats. Journal for Nature Conservation , 28 , pp.112-118.

Naude, V. N. et al . 2020. Unsustainable Anthropogenic Mortality Disrupts Natal Dispersal and Promotes Inbreeding in Leopards, Ecology and Evolution , 10(8), pp. 3605–3619. doi: 10.1002/ece3.6089.

Pirie, T.J., Thomas, R.L., Reilly, B.K. and Fellowes, M.D., 2014. Social interactions between a male leopard (Panthera pardus) and two generations of his offspring. African journal of ecology , 52 (4), pp.574-576.

Pitman, R.T., Fattebert, J., Williams, S.T., Williams, K.S., Hill, R.A., Hunter, L.T.B., et al. 2017. Cats, connectivity and conservation: incorporating data sets and integrating scales for wildlife management. Journal of Applied Ecology , 54, 1687–1698.

Purvis, A., Gittleman, J.L., Cowlishaw, G. and Mace, G.M., 2000. Predicting extinction risk in declining species. Proceedings of the royal society of London. Series B: Biological Sciences , 267 (1456), pp.1947-1952.

Seoraj-Pillai, N. (2016) Human-wildlife conflict in subsistence and commercial farmers in north-eastern South Africa . Ph.D., University of Witwatersrand, Johannesburg, South Africa.

Stein, A.B., Athreya, V., Gerngross, P., Balme, G., Henschel, P., Karanth, U., Miquelle, D., Rostro, S., Kamler, J.F. and Laguardia, A., 2016. Panthera pardus . The IUCN Red List of Threatened Species 2016: e. T15954A50659089. Gland, Switzerland: IUCN.

Viollaz, J.S., 2016. When human-leopard conflict turns deadly: A cross-country situational analysis . City University of New York.

Viollaz, J. S., Thompson, S. T. and Petrossian, G. A. (2021) When Human-Wildlife Conflict Turns Deadly: Comparing the Situational Factors That Drive Retaliatory Leopard Killings in South Africa, Animals : an open access journal from MDPI , 11(11).

ZPGA (2022). https://zpga.org/areas-of-focus/education/ downloaded 20 July 2022

About the authors

Jamie Paterson, scientific editor at Africa Geographic, was born in South Africa and grew up exploring the country’s wild spaces at every available opportunity. On successfully completing her honours in law at the University of Cambridge, she returned home and dove headlong into the wilderness, working as both a research and trails guide. Jamie also spent several years as a wildlife television presenter for WildEarth, NatGeo Wild and SafariLIVE in the Lowveld of South Africa and the Maasai Mara in Kenya. A desire to tell Africa’s stories as they deserve to be told led her to Africa Geographic, where she now works as the scientific editor. Jamie is currently completing a degree in Veterinary Science at the University of Pretoria.

Maxine Gaines is a wildlife biologist, with a BSc Honours degree and over 12 years of experience observing and studying leopards in the wild. Her undergrad degree was a BSc with majors in Botany and Zoology from Wits University. Maxine then went on to study a BSc Honours in Environmental Management through UNISA which she achieved cum laude. She has more than 12 years of experience observing and studying leopards in the wild, 10 of these at Londolozi Game Reserve in the Sabi Sands, Greater Kruger National Park. There, leopards were a particular interest and Maxine was one of three Leopard Specialist Guides for many years. After leaving Londolozi, she was privileged to work as a guide and trainer of field guides for &Beyond (then CCAfrica) in East Africa. She was able to add to her knowledge of leopard behaviour in this very different environment. She is currently a student again enrolled at UNISA for an MSc in Nature Conservation, with Predator Behaviour and Conservation being the focus of her studies.

THIS WEEK

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Tented camps + giraffe evolution + wildlife warriors

This week we are celebrating African icons. In our first story, we celebrate a safari icon: the humble tent – a symbol of freedom for adventurers. From simple canvas stretched over poles to opulent villas in remote destinations, tents enable their inhabitants to be fully immersed in their surroundings and experience the rawness of the wild. We’ve put together a selection of our favourite tented camps on the continent below.

In our second story, we are delving into the evolutionary wonders of another icon of the African safari: the giraffe. How does the world’s tallest animal cope with high blood pressure? Learn more below.

We’d also like to take a moment this week to honour the rangers who make conservation in Africa possible. 31 July is World Ranger Day. But we head into this year’s commemorations under a cloud. In the past few weeks we’ve learned of tragedies befalling rangers who are dedicated to protecting rhinos and other endangered species. Whether meeting poachers on the ground or being targeted by poaching syndicates for the good work they are doing, these rangers risk their lives and families to fight for our wildlife. This day is about more than taking a moment to acknowledge their work – it is to honour the sacrifices made by these wildlife warriors. What can you do to help? Keep backing conservation in Africa, and the ranger-support and anti-poaching projects that empower rangers to do their good work.

Happy celebrating Africa to you all!

Taryn van Jaarsveld – Editor

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

I have been fortunate to spend a significant portion of my life staring at wild animals, but, every now and again, I still have moments of existential wonder at their remarkable shapes and sizes. When you next find yourself with a minute or two to spare, have another look at the winners of this year’s Photographer of the Year and marvel at the diversity of forms, figures and colours on display.

Did you know that giraffe have a mean average blood pressure twice that of most mammals? Blood pressures that high could easily kill a human being (or at least substantially compromise the cardiovascular system). So, how do giraffe survive it? You’ll have to read our second story below to find out.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/africa-under-canvas/
TENTED CAMPS
Camping in the bushveld is an immersive experience. Here are some epic tented camps in Africa – from basic budget options to luxurious glamping

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/giraffe-evolution-pieces-of-the-puzzle/
GIRAFFE EVOLUTION
Genetics reveals secrets of giraffe evolution – how the world’s tallest animal copes with high blood pressure and maintains bone density

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Our CEO’s choice. This is one for the experienced traveller wanting to do something completely different; a total break from the clutter of modern-day life and Covid-era stresses. Search for lowland gorillas, bongos, forest elephants, dwarf crocodiles and flocks of grey parrots in the jungles and bais of the Odzala-Kokoua National Park in Congo.

For the lovers of art, we have one place left on this popular art safari in Big 5 Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger – departing in August. Join professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls, who will share advice and tips in the field and back in camp.

Or find (and even design) your own safari. It’s easy: login to our app, tap/click the ‘Travel with us’ tab, and select either ‘packages’ or ‘lodges’. You can filter your choice by place and other important choices (such as lodges in non-malaria areas or packages that include the Big 5). You can add your selection of lodges and packages to your wishlist – which will remain saved until you choose to edit or delete.

Supertuskers in Tsavo East

Meet monitor Christine Mwende and supertusker Konomoju2. Our CEO Simon spent time with them and Tsavo Trust in Tsavo East National Park in Kenya a few days ago. Simon is currently at the coastal paradise of Watamu tracking down the Sokoke scops owl, golden-rumped sengi and other wondrous creatures before heading to the Maasai Mara National Park for the Greatest Show on Earth.

Want to head out on a cross-continent adventure with us? Check out our special offers, packages and discounts on lodges.

WATCH: In their mission to protect Amboseli’s wildlife, Big Life Foundation has built a barrier against poachers. Now, people from local communities work to protect wildlife. Ranger by ranger, their force has grown bigger. More than 300 rangers now protect 647 000ha (02:20). Click here to watch

Africa under canvas

A tent is a marvellous thing: not just a safe, weatherproof cocoon but a symbol of freedom for avid explorers the world over. For the safari industry, tents have always played a pivotal role in countless journeys to Africa, sometimes evolving from simple canvas stretched over poles to opulent villas in remote destinations. Yet the one thing they all have in common is a sense of absolute immersion, with just a thin piece of material between their occupants and the wilderness (and creatures) on the other side… These are our some of our favourite tented camps from across Africa:

Everything but the Range Rover

Ultra-luxury in the middle of some of the remotest corners of Africa may sound like something of an oxymoron, but these tented camps prove that nothing is impossible.

Duba Plains Suite, Okavango Delta, Botswana

This exquisite private two-bedroom tented villa is tucked away in an exclusive section of the Okavango Delta, arguably the home of the luxury safari. The suite is raised on a wooden decking offering an unparalleled vantage point to observe the Delta’s famed wildlife viewing. Elegant features and attention to detail make this one of the most luxurious tented camp options.

Mara Plains Jahazi Suite, Olare Motorogi Conservancy

The intimate Mara Plains Jahazi Suite is so beautifully designed and appointed that were it not for the sweeping views and draped canvas overhead, it would be easy to forget that one was in a tent in Africa. Dine out to a lamplit dinner on the veranda before retreating to a night of sleep serenaded by Mara’s wild creatures.

Jack’s Camp, Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, Botswana

In the middle of a land of vast space and otherworldly vistas, Jack’s Camp is resplendent, swathed in muslin and canvas: an homage to a forgotten era of safaris. The rich colours and ornate décor make time spent in the camp almost as engaging as exploring the wilderness beyond.

Angama Mara, Mara Triangle, Kenya

There are few views as magnificent as the one from Angama Mara’s beautifully appointed tents, decorated in the dazzling colours of traditional Maa culture. The name “Angama Mara” was inspired by the Swahili word for “suspended in mid-air”, and each tent “floats” 300 metres above the plains of the Maasai Mara, with the dark green S-bends of the Mara River curving south as far as the eye can see.

Tented camps — Jack’s Camp in the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans pays homage to a forgotten era of safaris; Mara Plains Jahazi Suite is intimate and beautifully designed; iconic Angama Mara offers some of the continent’s best views; find luxury in the Okavango Delta at Duba Plains Suite

The definition of glamping

With the rise of the luxury tented safari experience came the increasing popularity of the term “glamping” – a portmanteau of “glamorous” and “camping”. These destinations take glamping to a whole new level.

Lemala Nanyukie Lodge, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania

“Nanyukie” translates as “endless plains” in Maa, the perfect description of the celebrated Serengeti surroundings. Lemala Nanyukie Lodge is based in a region of the Serengeti known for its exceptional concentration of cats, so anticipate falling asleep to the sound of a lion’s roar rumbling through the canvas walls, at one of Africa’s most comfortable tented camps.

Saseka Tented Camp, Thornybush Private Game Reserve, Greater Kruger, South Africa

Each of the luxury tents in Saseka comes with its own private deck, outdoor shower, and pool with views over the riverbed of one of the most wildlife-dense reserves in South Africa.

Mara Nyika Camp, Naboisho Conservancy, Kenya

Mara Nyika is an intimate tented camp set in a valley of one of the Maasai Mara’s largest private conservancies. Privacy and pampering are the fundamental pillars of the Mara Nyika Camp experience, set against one of the most spectacular backdrops in Africa.

Chisa Busanga Camp, Kafue National Park, Zambia

On a beautiful island in the heart of Busanga Plains you’ll find extraordinary Chisa Busanga Camp – characterised by human-sized bird’s nests inspired by the design of a weaver’s nest. Built from sticks and lined with canvas, this architectural marvel offers a unique way to experience the seasonal Kafue National Park.

The tent next door

Roughing it in the wild is all good and well, but there is absolutely nothing wrong with wanting some creature comforts while doing so. Thankfully, you’ll find the perfect balance at these tented camps.

Ongava Tented Camp, bordering Etosha National Park, Namibia

A safari classic, the Meru-style tents of Ongava Tented Camp all have ensuite facilities, open-air showers and private verandas. Tucked in a hidden valley at the foot of a dolomite hill, the camp is a natural extension of the arid landscape surrounding it.

Explorer Camp, Shamwari Private Game Reserve, South Africa

Explorer Camp is the ideal destination for those looking to explore Shamwari Private Game Reserve on foot. Here, visitors will discover the natural bounty of diverse flora, abundant insects, and the region’s many large and small mammals. Rustic and intimate, Explorer Camp offers the perfect combination of simple amenities and natural immersion.

Lemala Ngorongoro, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania

Hidden in an ancient acacia forest a short distance from the rim of the world-famous Ngorongoro Crater, the spacious tents of Lemala Ngorongoro Tented Camp are carefully positioned to provide privacy to their guests while keeping the impact on the pristine forest to a minimum. And it’s just a short drive to the magnificent wildlife viewing on the Crater’s floor!

Hide out in an ancient acacia forest at Lemala Ngorongoro; Immerse yourself in the Etosha landscape at Ongava; Discover Shamwari on foot with Explorer Camp as your base

Back to basics

Escaping to the wild doesn’t have to be about enjoying every convenience, and sometimes simpler really is better. There are plenty of ways to camp out in comfort without breaking the bank!

Flatdogs Camp, South Luangwa National Park, Zambia

The safari tents at Flatdogs Camp encapsulate the essence of an authentic “Africa under canvas” experience, set in a prime position along a riverbank in the heart of the world-renowned South Luangwa National Park.

Ndutu Kati Kati Tented Camp, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania

Ndutu Kati Kati is a seasonal mobile camp, strategically situated in southern Serengeti from December to March, just in time to take advantage of the excitement of the arrival of the Great Migration. This camp is all about wildlife viewing, and the simple tents are the perfect base to rest between adventures.

Sango Safari Camp, Khwai Community Concession, Botswana

Nestled in the shade of the riverine trees overlooking the remarkable Khwai River, the ensuite Meru-style tents of Sango Safari Camp offer the perfect base from which to explore this magnificent part of the Okavango Delta. As one of the continent’s most exceptional little tented camps, Sango Safari Camp provides a neat compromise between affordability and subtle comfort.

Back of beyond

Get off the beaten track and explore, then curl up in bed and embrace the sounds of the African bushveld after dark.

Ivory Trail Adventure, Gonarezhou National Park, Zimbabwe

This mobile camping experience allows exploration of the remotest corners of one of Zimbabwe’s greatest wilderness areas. The Ivory Trail Adventure is undeniably aptly named, with simple stretcher beds, bucket showers, and a long-drop toilet.

Ishasha Wilderness Camp, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda

Escape to the banks of the Ntungwe River at the Ishasha Wilderness Camp in Uganda’s Queen Elizabeth National Park, where you will share your space with resident troops of black-and-white colobus monkeys or a herd of passing elephants.

Mundulea Bush Camp and Walking Trails, Mundulea Nature Reserve, Namibia

The low-impact tents of Mundulea Bush Camp are hidden among woodland and dolomite outcrops in the unspoiled Karstveld. Each tent has its own private veranda area where guests can take a moment to soak in the absolute peace and quiet of this remote region of Namibia’s central highlands.

Mwaleshi Camp, North Luangwa National Park, Zambia

In the vast wilderness of Africa’s golden valley, North Luangwa National Park is often referred to as the home of the walking safari, and most of comfortable Mwaleshi Camp’s activities are conducted on foot. Here canvas has been replaced by thatching, but the effect is just as immersive. The simple camp perfectly matches the authentic, down-to-earth tone that epitomises the Zambian safari experience.

Want to head out on your canvas safari? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

Resources

Check out these authentic glamping options in Greater Kruger.

For a different type of immersive experience, check out our favourite places to sleep out under the stars in Africa.

Read our tips on staying safe in the presence of wild animals while exploring the African bushveld.

Giraffe evolution – pieces of the puzzle

Giraffe evolution has long fascinated biologists. Unique in the animal kingdom, their towering stature confers considerable advantages for access to out-of-the-way resources and vantage for spotting predators. Recent research delves into how giraffe genetics have shaped their ability to defy gravity. The giraffe’s great height comes with significant physiological challenges, including maintaining the necessary blood pressure and bone density to support it.

Giraffes need to pump blood up to two metres above the level of the heart to supply the brain with oxygenated blood. This, in turn, necessitates pumping blood at a pressure double that of most other mammals – pressure that would cause severe damage to the human cardiovascular system.

Giraffe evolution - pieces of the puzzle — How the giraffe survives with such high blood pressure is a mystery slowly being unravelled by scientists

Factoring in growth

Research had previously isolated a gene known as FGFRL1 (the fibroblast growth factor receptor-like protein 1). In giraffes, this gene shows seven mutations not present in other ruminants. Given that different mutations in this gene are known to cause cardiovascular and skeletal defects in humans and mice, researchers hypothesised that the giraffe’s exceptional FGFRL1 must be responsible for some of its specialised adaptations.

To test this, the authors of the new study used cutting-edge technology to insert the giraffe gene into mice. The modified mice and a control group without the gene then received a drug to increase blood pressure. The results were pretty conclusive: the “giraffe-type FGFRL1 mice” suffered less cardiovascular and organ damage than the normal mice. In fact, after 28 days of exposure to the angiotensin II drug, the modified mice showed no indications of hypertension – their blood pressure remained at the average.

Though the mechanisms behind this gene action are still not understood, the authors tentatively speculate that this research may well contribute to future gene therapies for humans suffering the adverse effects of high blood pressure.

Dem bones

Giraffes have one of the highest skeletal growth rates of any mammal – a calf will double its height during its first year. As a general rule, fast skeletal growth rates are associated with decreased bone strength, but adult giraffes have average bone mineral density. Interestingly, the “giraffe-type FGFRL1 mice” had significantly higher bone mineral densities, bone volume/total volume ratios and average trabeculae (essentially, the supportive “struts” in bone) thickness than the normal mice. Thus, it seems highly probable that the FGFRL1 gene in giraffes plays a role in maintaining compact and robust bones.

This particular finding goes to the heart of the basics of evolution and, in particular, evolutionary pleiotropy. Pleiotropy describes a situation where one gene impacts two or more seemingly unrelated physical traits. This may help explain how substantial phenotypic changes could have taken place over a relatively short evolutionary time.

Constant vigilance

In compiling the genome assembly, the study details how giraffes are adapted to have what is thought to be the best eyesight of any of the Artiodactyls (even-toed ungulates such as antelope and buffalo). This may be particularly important for giraffe because their reaction speeds are fractionally slower than most mammals because of a delay in neuron transmission caused by neuron length. Not only did the researchers identify several genes related to optical development, but they also showed that the giraffe has a reduced sense of smell. Compared to its closest relative, the okapi, the giraffe lacks at least 53 olfactory-related genes. This may well be a natural trade-off in sensory acuity seen in other animals (often arboreal species).

Unlike most other animals, a resting giraffe is not particularly well suited to rising quickly and gracefully, making them more vulnerable to predators. They also require high volumes of food. As a result, giraffe sleep durations are among the lowest recorded. The study outlines clear evidence of the rapid evolution of specific genes critical in maintaining circadian rhythms and sleep arousal systems. Thus, the giraffe’s genome allows for short and fragmented sleep.

A tall order

Though the mysteries of the giraffe’s great height are far from entirely revealed, this research goes a long way towards improving our understanding of evolution on a genetic level. In particular, it provides crucial insights into how pleiotropy and some “lucky” mutations produced one of the most fascinating creatures on the planet.

Resources

The full study can be accessed here: “A towering genome: Experimentally validated adaptations to high blood pressure and extreme stature in the giraffe”, Liu, C., et al. (2021), ScienceAdvances

Read more about the subdivision of giraffe species and subspecies here.

To learn about how you can contribute to the conservation of giraffes, read more about our project partner The Giraffe Conservation Foundation. Login to view – details below.

THIS WEEK

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Habituating leopards + vibrant Majete + Big-5 safari heaven

I have just arrived at Tsavo East National Park in Kenya – my first stop on an epic safari planned by teamAG

We head out soon to spend precious time with those giant dignified tuskers that define this area and perhaps even catch a glimpse of hirola – the world’s rarest antelope! I will be accompanying a biodiversity patrol for a few days – to appreciate the work that goes into keeping Tsavo safe. After that, I journey to the coastal forest of Arabuko Sokoke to learn about the work being done to preserve this precious place – and to track down Sokoke scops owl, golden-rumped sengi and other delights. And finally, my safari heads off to the Maasai Mara to join clients on a photographic safari. We will use a modified photography vehicle, and off-road driving permits only issued to approved guides who drive responsibly. That’s three stories you can look forward to 🙂

FOMO? Perhaps it’s time to contact us to start planning your next safari. You can do that by replying to this newsletter or emailing our team at travel@africageographic.com – let them know your wishlist. First, check out our packages here (website) and here (app). Safari njema!

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

A few weeks ago, we ran a balanced and heartfelt reflection on famous Sabi Sands leopard Hosana’s untimely death. The ensuing discussion on our story continued for weeks, as interested parties weighed in on our platforms. What became clear was that a slew of issues required consideration and investigation.

This week Jamie and co-author Maxine Gaines – who both hold deep connections to Hosana and Sabi Sand Game Reserve – have, after thorough research and enquiry, penned an exceptional and exhaustive analysis on leopard habituation and the ethics of tourism surrounding leopards. The story below is available exclusively on our app for the next few days, where you can join the discussion with the AG tribe. Get the app to view – it’s free.

Malawi’s Majete Wildlife Reserve has all the makings of a coveted safari destination. This realm of towering granite hills, grassy plains, abundant wildlife and the mighty Shire River has seen droves of tourists returning to experience a vibrant and thriving wilderness. Read our guide on this reserve, and on how to visit it, in our second story below.

Happy celebrating Africa to you all!

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Almost exactly seven years ago, I first set foot in the Sabi Sand Game Reserve, bursting with excitement and somewhat wide-eyed at the position I had found myself in. Would that I could travel back in time – what words of frail wisdom would I impart? (I have some ideas, though not all are relevant to the topic at hand.)

Did you know that the habituation of leopards (and many other species), has contributed enormously to our scientific knowledge of these beautiful, cryptic animals? Our first story of the week, written by myself and my friend Maxine Gaines, is the culmination of months of work and careful consideration. It tells the story of leopards we have known, their habituation to people and the ethos of the industry we both understand well. Its messages are borne from the heart, and we sincerely hope they are received in the spirit in which they were intended.

Conservation today is a tangled web of complex challenges, each strand convoluted and inextricably linked to several others. It is often much easier to villainise and rail against the “bad guys” (and tar others with the same brush) than to face the fact that silver bullet solutions are few and far between.

Somehow taking a middle ground has become the new extremism, attracting ire and condemnation. But I still believe in honesty and transparency and hope our story below reflects that.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/habituating-leopards/
HABITUATING LEOPARDS
Following the death of leopard Hosana, Jamie Paterson & Maxine Gaines take an in-depth look at leopard habituation & tourism ethics

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/majete-wildlife-reserve/
EPIC MAJETE
Malawi’s Majete Wildlife Reserve is a booming Big-5 destination. Epic scenery, cheetahs & wild dogs, & the Shire River await

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Our CEO’S choice is one for the experienced safari-goer seeking the ultimate experience (and images) of raw Africa at her best. Join popular photographer guide Villiers Steyn and experienced local guides in Chitake, Mana Pools, Zimbabwe. Four places left.

JUST DO IT! For the pursuit of culinary delights and Big-5 safari heaven, there is this: Bush & beach, Pinotage to predators – South Africa – 12 days. You know you want to

Find other ready-made packages or even design your own safari. It’s easy: login to our app, tap/click the ‘Travel with us’ tab, and select either ‘packages’ or ‘lodges’. You can filter your choice by place and other important choices (such as lodges in non-malaria areas or packages that include the Big 5). You can add your selection of lodges and packages to your wishlist – which will remain saved until you choose to edit or delete.

You can help desert lions

Did you know that the AG app hosts a hand-picked selection of trusted conservation and community projects that are of real benefit to Africa’s people, ecosystems and wildlife? This empowers the AG tribe to offer support & donate to projects that make a difference.

We’ve just added Desert Lion Conservation Trust to our list of conservation projects. The trust has been collecting data on the desert-adapted lion population and studying their behaviour, biology and ability to adapt to the harsh desert environment. Their work is mitigating threats and providing much-needed help to these magnificent and resilient lions. See how you can help.

WATCH: Lemurs get high | We know many animals self-medicate. Check out these lemurs chewing on toxic millipedes and spreading them on their bodies – seemingly as an insect repellent – while becoming intoxicated in the process (02:40). Click here to watch

Majete Wildlife Reserve

It’s been a long journey, and the guardians of the small crate and its precious cargo are exhausted. A pair of amber eyes gleam in the darkness, wary and burning with wildfire. The crate slides open, and in a blur of spots and tawny fur, the cheetah hurtles out into the wild of her new home – one of the first cheetahs to set foot in Malawi’s Majete Wildlife Reserve in decades. Her arrival is just one step in the delicate process of transforming this vital piece of Africa back into a vibrant and thriving wilderness.

Majete Wildlife Reserve has all the makings of a coveted safari destination, a reserve now afforded the opportunity to live up to its considerable potential. And two years after cheetahs returned to Majete, the first cubs emerged from a secret den, marking the dawn of a new era for the reserve.

The reserve and Malawi’s wild spaces

In the Lower Shire River valley in Malawi’s southwestern corner, Majete Wildlife Reserve encompasses 700km2 (70,000 hectares) of towering granite hills, grassy plains, and miombo woodlands. Bulbous star chestnuts have forced their way up through the rocky kopjes, and hulking baobabs dot the savanna, while the riparian forests of the river valley are lush with ilala palms and ancient mahoganies.

Every river in Africa has its own distinctive character, and these landscape lifelines tend to dominate and define the continent’s wild spaces. So it is in Majete, where the two main rivers are entirely unalike. The Mkulumadzi is gentle and charming, flowing through patches of boulders and along small open floodplains. The more famous Shire is mighty, fast and deep (check out this footage of the capricious river after heavy rains), forcing its resident hippos and crocodiles to endure the currents. The Shire subsumes the smaller Mkulumadzi in the heart of Majete and continues south to tumble over the picturesque Kapichira Falls. Nearly two hundred years ago, David Livingstone and his crew followed the course of this river, which would eventually (after a detour around the falls) lead them to the shores of Lake Malawi. The Shire is the only outlet of Lake Malawi in the north and winds its way through Malawi before eventually joining the Zambezi River to the south.

Second chances and new hopes

Majete Wildlife Reserve was the first protected area to fall under the management auspices of African Parks back in 2003. Prior to that, the reserve was a reserve in name only. Charcoal burning and logging had divested vast patches of land of their woodlands, and poaching had claimed the lives of everything from elephants and rhinos to the once vast herds of buffalo and innumerable antelope species. Not one tourist had ventured to the reserve in three years.

After a lengthy negotiation, the non-profit organisation African Parks entered into a public-private partnership with the Malawi Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW). As part of their now well-established (but then trailblazing) method, African Parks assumed responsibility for the rehabilitation and long-term management of the reserve while providing a source of sustainable income for surrounding communities. They inherited a “wasteland with no perceived value, and little to no hope for a revival”.

Majete Wildlife Reserve — African Parks has implemented programs to protect the reserve, with teams successfully securing the safety of wildlife populations in the reserve

But revive it they did, in a careful and painstaking process that has taken close to twenty years. Rather than rushing into a hasty attempt to restock Majete, management teams established the necessary infrastructure and relationships needed to secure the reserve’s long-term future. As is fundamental to the African Parks’ approach, the first step was to institute community development and engagement programs to prove the importance of protecting the reserve. Fences sprang up around the perimeter, the road network was increased tenfold, and lodges, camps and a visitor centre were prepared for the inevitable return of the tourists.

The early days establishment of a smaller and more manageable fenced inner sanctuary (fence since removed) provided a safe haven for both the remaining and translocated wildlife to flourish. Meanwhile, the reserve’s team of 12 grew to over 140 well-equipped, well-motivated and well-trained staff members. In a remarkable testament to their efforts, not one elephant or rhino has been lost to poaching since their return to the reserve.

Tourists have begun to reappear in their droves, with 11,000 visitors generating more than USD 500,000 in revenue in 2019. Aside from the reserve running costs, this money is channelled into community education scholarships, social infrastructure such as clinics, malaria prevention, and bee-keeping projects.

Back from the brink

With remaining wildlife numbers on the rise and their safety ensured, the time had come to bring back the species lost to poaching. First came seven black rhinos in 2003, followed by elephants with the arrival of a herd of 70 in 2006 and additional herds in 2008 and 2009. Today a healthy population of elephants roam Majete Wildlife Reserve, fulfilling their role as ecosystem engineers and reversing the damage to the reserve’s habitats. Translocated giraffes, buffaloes, and sable antelopes all joined the ranks of a burgeoning herbivore population. Since African Parks took over management, more than 5,000 animals from 17 species have been brought into Majete.

Today the reserve is home to a multitude of antelope species, including waterbuck, eland, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest, common duiker, kudu, nyala, bushbuck, Sharpe’s grysbok and suni. With sufficient prey species on the menu, the large carnivores were next on the arrival list. Lions, leopards, cheetahs and, most recently, wild dogs have all made the journey from other countries (mainly South Africa – a trip of over 5,000km) to restore Malawi’s predator populations. These animals fall under the umbrella of the Malawi Predator Metapopulation Management Plan, allowing for an overarching management approach. Along with elephants and rhinos, they and their offspring have aided in the rewilding and genetic supplementation of other reserves around Malawi, such as the Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve in the north of the country.
The gradual rehabilitation of Majete has also been of tremendous benefit to its avian residents (and migrants). Over 300 bird species have been recorded in the reserve. July to November marks the passage of a plethora of migratory bird species through the reserves, including African skimmers and diminutive rock pratincoles. For enthusiasts, Arnot’s and boulder chats, racket-tailed rollers, Pel’s fishing owls, cuckoo hawks, and Boehm’s bee-eaters are all highlights.

Explore & stay

Selecting an African safari destination is often a deeply personal decision, based on any number of different factors and requirements, from budget to wildlife viewing. One such motivating factor not to be overlooked or dismissed is the story of a reserve and the vital contribution each visit makes to its survival. Every tourist who arrives at this nascent reserve to learn (and retell) its story is an essential cog in the tourism-conservation machine.

Find out about Majete for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.

They will also find themselves well rewarded by a piece of African paradise unspoilt by mass commercial tourism. This may not be the perfect destination for first-time safari-goers clutching a wildlife checklist, but seasoned travellers will revel in the low-key atmosphere, unusual scenery and unexpected joy of encountering wildlife once locally extinct.

The reserve is open to day visitors, but there are campsite and lodge options for those looking to opt for a longer exploration. Thawale Lodge is one such destination in a prime location, offering a fully-catered experience of Majete.

You can see more on Thawale Lodge here:

The Mkulumadzi River and its lawn-like flood plains are well-suited to guided walking safaris, with the bonus of enjoying a well-earned lunch and swimming at the reserve’s Heritage and Education Centre afterwards. Boat excursions on the Shire River are also on offer. The reserve is open year-round but arguably at its best during the dry months from April until October, when the wildlife concentrates around available water. Majete can get very warm, with midday temperatures often exceeding 40 degrees Celsius and very humid conditions with the arrival of seasonal rains.

Sundowners in the reserve; camps and lodges such as Game Capture Camp (top right) and Thawale Lodge (middle row) are becoming firm favourites with tourists; wild dogs have also returned to the reserve; and lions are now very much at home

Magical Majete

There could be no better description of the restoration of Majete Wildlife Reserve than a labour of love, born of twenty years’ worth of dedicated toil. In many ways, for African Parks, it set the stage for the future – a platform to trial new and innovative methods to protect the continent’s most vulnerable wild spaces and proof of just what can be accomplished. What’s more, Majete’s success became a springboard for Malawian conservation, echoes of which can be seen across the country’s other parks and reserves.

African Parks entered into management agreements for Liwonde National Park and Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve, both in Malawi, in 2015.

THIS WEEK

Jackal alert! A startled ostrich takes evasive action. Photographer of the Year 2022 entrant.

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Cheetah first + self-medicating chimps + gorilla trekking

It’s time to take the management of national parks and reserves away from government and hand over to experts in the private sector. And I mean on a worldwide basis. Time and again, we see ‘protected areas’ neglected to the point that they are poached to a state of barren wasteland or government-sanctioned rape by extraction industries such as mining and logging. How often have we been told that there is no money for conservation or that other priorities are more important? Government ministers are usually political appointments – with precious little understanding of conservation, let alone the deep passion that is so necessary. Imagine if your retirement fund was run by a labour union steward or open-heart surgery performed by bookkeepers. It’s simply ludicrous that government-appointed stooges head up our precious protected areas with little to no experience or passion. And then there is the fraud and corruption that is now endemic amongst some of our ‘leaders’. That said, I need to make a loud shout-out to the rangers and others at ground level who keep the wheels turning, despite such huge odds.

Some African countries have seen the light and handed over protected area management duties to stellar organisations like African Parks. And the results speak for themselves. Well done to these far-sighted leaders. So let’s see more of that!

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

A few months ago, researchers in the Kgalagadi were observing the cheetah they dubbed ‘Lizzie’ and her subadult cub Lokesh, wandering over the dunes. Behind Lokesh, small blurry bundles came into view. With the appearance of these four new cubs, our understanding of cheetah behaviour would change forever. Read our first story below to find out what is so fascinating about this occurrence, which is providing invaluable insight into our understanding of these precious cats. I can only imagine the childlike awe Lizzie’s observers experienced on this discovery – a reminder that despite the bad news, losses, and often thankless struggles faced by conservationists, there is still hope and new wonder to be uncovered.

So too are we discovering new behaviour in primates. Scientists have observed self-medicating behaviour in chimps. Read more about these and other innovative examples of animals self-medicating in our second story.

Happy celebrating Africa to you all!

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

With limited exceptions, we know very little about the lives of individual wild animals. No matter how extraordinary, a sighting offers but a snapshot in time. So is it any wonder these wild creatures, like the cheetah of our first story, continue to surprise?

I suspect that we are destined to learn a great deal more about the complex sociality of seemingly solitary cats. Indeed, the past few years have seen the experts frantically rewriting the books on cougar social behaviours. And did you know that wild leopard and cheetah mothers may adopt another’s cubs? Take Naserian, for instance – a cheetah I spent a few months following in the Maasai Mara. She adopted her nephew and raised him alongside her young son for several months.

Isn’t the wild’s endless capacity for the unexpected simply marvellous?

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/kalaharis-overlapping-cheetah-litters/
CHEETAH FIRST
A cheetah mother has been observed simultaneously raising two cheetah cubs of different age classes – never witnessed in the wild

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/making-hippocrates-proud-how-animals-self-medicate/
SELF-MEDICATING CHIMPS
Scientists have observed chimpanzees medicating the injuries of their peers – a behaviour never seen in the animal kingdom

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

If you have safari FOMO because so many lucky travellers are currently out there enjoying their African adventures then consider these two epic opportunities to reboot and indulge yourself 🙂

• 3 days in epic Rwanda to trek for gorillas. This 3-day insertion into paradise is ideal for that quick getaway or as an add-on to your East African safari

• Or really push the boat out and indulge in this 19-day mega safari – a proper southern African sojourn. From Cape Town to Vic Falls and Chobe to Khwai, this is the ultimate gift to yourself and your loved ones

• Visit our app to see more epic packages or plan your own safari by selecting ‘lodges’ in the menu dropdown. It’s easy

Marvellous Madikwe

App subscriber Colin West writes:
“We have just returned from our first stay at Buffalo Ridge Safari Lodge in Madikwe Game Reserve. We have loved Madikwe ever since our first visit 11 years ago. It is a great location with extensive views, spacious lodges, and extremely experienced guides. The lodge is owned by a local community who are determined to make your stay memorable and enjoyable. Around the lodge we saw elephants feeding around the main deck, while klipspringers rested on the steps leading up to the game-drive vehicles. We had great close-up sightings of cheetah, elephant, lion, and so many other creatures. This was very much down to Godfrey, our guide, who looked after us so well. We thoroughly recommend Buffalo Ridge to anyone wanting a top-end experience without having to pay top-end prices.”

Check out Buffalo Ridge Safari Lodge in our app. App subscribers can book our partner lodges at discount prices.

Want to write a review? Share tales of your travels as Colin did, on our forum.

WATCH: Here’s what happens after an elephant dies. As this film crew witnessed, elephant carcasses briefly become busy ecosystems of their own. (Viewer discretion advised.) (06:47). Click here to watch

Making Hippocrates proud: How animals self-medicate

Cases of animals self-medicating have been widely recorded over the past few decades. Self medicating is a survival trait that chimpanzees, birds, orangutans and lemurs all share with humans. Now, scientists have observed chimpanzees treating peers for injuries – a first for the animal kingdom.

Scientists observed 19 different instances where the chimpanzees “medicated” themselves:

Members of the Rekambo chimpanzee troop in Gabon have recently been observed rubbing insects onto open wounds.
Even more astonishing, the chimpanzees not only treated their own wounds in this fashion but those of others as well.
No other animal (apart from humans, of course) has ever been observed treating the injuries of others.
Most interesting, is that this case was not just a once-off event.
One mother rubbed an insect onto her offspring’s wound, and the same behaviour was observed in two other adult chimpanzees.
It is still uncertain what kind of insects were used and whether the “insect ointment” the chimps created aided injury healing or prevented infection.
Was it the chimpanzees’ intention to treat the injuries? That remains unanswered for now but seems likely given that these celebrated primates targeted open wounds.

There are also many examples in nature of animals using the chemical properties of plants or insects for a specific purpose:

Orangutans were recently recorded chewing on leaves known to have anti-inflammatory properties and then rubbing the resultant saliva-leaf lather on their skin.
Capuchin monkeys rub their fur with plants with insect-repellent chemicals.
Chimpanzees have been seen swallowing bitter, unpalatable leaves of Aspilia plants, some of which are anti-helminthics (to rid their bodies of parasitic worms).
Millipedes – fascinating creatures that they are – are also popular in the animal kingdom, possibly because they secrete noxious chemicals with antimicrobial properties.
Hornbills have been observed using crushed millipedes to line the cavities and entrances of their nests, which may help to keep bacteria and fungi from flourishing in the confined place while the chicks fledge.
Lemurs have also been recorded chewing on millipedes, possibly to treat tummy troubles. The lemurs swallowed some of the unpleasant mixture and spread the remaining ointment on their genitals, anuses, and tails.
Many birds have been observed “anting” – rubbing ants over their bodies. The formic acid produced by some of these ants is thought to help soothe irritated skin and keep ectoparasites and microbes at bay.

While many cases of animals self-medicating – also known as zoopharmacognosy – are coming to light, there is still much for us to learn in this fascinating field. Have you observed these behaviours, or similar behaviours, in the wild? Let us know.

Kalahari’s overlapping cheetah litters

Somewhere far north in the Auob riverbed in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park of South Africa, a female cheetah wanders out of the dunes. Her eyes lock onto a springbok and she moves closer to her unsuspecting quarry. Moments later she is at full speed. The springbok sees her and runs – but it is too late. The cheetah sits on the side of the dune, panting heavily, successful in her mission to feed her family. So far, this is nothing unusual. A female cheetah hunting a springbok to provide for her growing cubs is a daily occurrence in the southern Kalahari Desert. On this occasion, however, everything is different.

Her sub-adult male cub, 15 months old, appears over the dunes. Behind him four small bundles of fur appear, hardly recognisable as cheetahs, emerging from the den to join their mother and older brother on the kill. The mother – dubbed “Lizzie” by researchers from the Kalahari Leopard Project, was born in 2016. Her mother is known to researchers as “Corinne” and is currently one of the oldest cheetahs in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.

Cheetahs are one of the most intensively studied large carnivores on the planet. But a female raising two of her own litters of different age classes at the same time is something scientists have never seen before. The first sighting of these cheetah cubs occurred in October 2021. After observing this cheetah family for some time, the Cheetahs of the Kalahari Project has been able to gain insight into this rare occurrence.

In the beginning

The story began in early 2016 when Lizzie was born. Her mother Corinne was one of the best-known cheetahs in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, and both Corinne and Lizzie had been monitored since birth by the Kalahari Leopard Project. Corinne was born in March 2011 and her mother was collared by cheetah researchers Gus and Margie Mills in 2006. Knowledge of the matrilineal bloodline of these cheetahs thus goes back four generations.

After dispersal from her mother, Lizzie became a prolific independent hunter and claimed a home range in the far north of her mother’s range. In June 2020 she had her first litter, of which one male cub – Lokesh – survived the denning phase. He grew up as a single cub and nothing out of the ordinary happened for almost a year.

In May 2021 we noticed that Lizzie started marking, behaviour that is normally only displayed by females in oestrus. Multiple males ventured far out of their normal territories to visit Lizzie’s home range. When we received news of sightings of Lizzie accompanied by different males during May, we still did not expect her to get pregnant. Her 11-month-old male cub was still far from independence and cheetah females do not usually enter oestrus unless their current cubs have dispersed, are very close to dispersal age, or if all of their cubs die. But during the winter months we didn’t see or hear anything about Lizzie. We grew fearful that something had happened to her and her cub. Thankfully, they reappeared in September while hunting springbok in the riverbed. But we noticed something odd: Lizzie had suckling marks.

On 30 October 2021 our suspicions were confirmed when Lizzie finally showed her new litter of four cubs to the world. Cheetah females keep their litters hidden in a den for about eight weeks. Thereafter the mother will start to take them with her wherever she goes. Most cubs are fully weaned within three weeks after emerging from their den and they are introduced to fresh meat as soon as the denning phase is over.

From the moment her new litter emerged we monitored this special family on a daily basis and recorded their behaviour in detail. Lizzie and her extended family started moving around in their usual home range, allowing us to spend months in their presence.

Navigating new relationships

This situation – an adult female with a new litter of eight-week-old cubs, accompanied by an older cub (a 15-month-old brother in this case), had never been documented by anyone in the wild before. The cubs’ relationship with their older sibling seemed fragile for the first days after their emergence from the den and Lokesh often played too rough with the little ones. We noticed the subadult male seemed caught between two worlds. He tried to hunt with his mother, but also couldn’t resist playing with his younger siblings.

First-ever case of overlapping cheetah litters in the wild — The unusual family – mother, subadult Lokesh and four young siblings – kept a tight bond

Their behaviour in the next few weeks was remarkable. The subadult male started to take on the role of “surrogate mom”, and the young cubs spent more time with him. He played with them, washed them and called for them when they lagged behind. This gave Lizzie the opportunity to focus on hunting efficiently for her large family. He would still accompany his mother during hunts – spoiling quite a few of them! But whenever the two were out hunting, Lokesh would focus on the young cubs if danger emerged. On multiple occasions, jackals threatened the young cubs while Lizzie and Lokesh were hunting. She would often make a call and the subadult male would abandon the hunt and return to his younger siblings. Lizzie often left Lokesh with his younger siblings, seemingly to “babysit” them. The first month flew by and it seemed these young cubs were safe with two older cheetahs looking after them.

Disaster strikes

The young cubs were growing fast and discovering more of their mother’s home range. But moving larger distances meant more chance of running into danger. A shortage of prey and an unusually high density of cheetahs in Lizzie’s home range in January 2022 meant she had to walk up to 20km a day to find food. All four cubs made it into the new year – though one of the four was significantly smaller than the others. The first disaster struck on the night of 7 January.

Lizzie is a skilled hunter. Where other cheetahs usually need to get within 50–100m of their prey before launching a pursuit, she can hunt from wide distances. On occasion, she has even taken the chance to start running at a distance of about 250m from her prey, and been successful. But her determination to succeed in the hunt landed her in trouble that night.

Lizzie missed a hunting opportunity that afternoon and so followed a group of springbok into the twilight. After we followed her tracks the next day, it became evident that she had walked over 7km on a moonless night in pursuit of prey. I struggled to locate the family at first. But we soon spotted Lizzie coming down from the dunes, followed by a very nervous Lokesh and only three small cubs. Going back on their tracks, we found that one small set of tracks had gone missing. One of the cubs had likely been separated from the family. From tracking and circumstantial evidence we determined black-backed jackals had killed the cub after it was lost, and we later found seven jackals eating the cub’s remains.

Lizzie and her family later returned to the area where the tracks had indicated the cub had gone missing. They called for the cub incessantly for the next two days, staying in the area for some time – unusual for Lizzie. The entire family, including the subadult male, were calling for long periods of time during the days after the loss.

After that, prey became even more scarce and Lizzie would walk many kilometres a day to find the odd springbok in the riverbed. She went into the dunes to hunt steenbok on occasion but often returned unsuccessful.

On 18 January Lizzie and her family walked 10km to a waterhole to drink. Unaware of three lions sleeping nearby, Lizzie and her family walked dangerously close to them through the riverbed. A sudden thunderstorm created a dust devil of sand and visibility decreased. A lightning strike woke the lions, who then noticed the cheetah and cubs. The sandstorm created cover for the lioness and she charged the unsuspecting cheetahs. She killed one cub. Both Lizzie and Lokesh sprinted back to distract the other lions from killing more youngsters. Cheetahs are no match for any lion and the two males charged at the adult cheetahs. Lizzie and Lokesh made a narrow escape. One cub was left disoriented, calling for its mother and siblings from the riverbed. Lokesh came back from the dunes and managed to draw the cub away from danger.

In contrast to their actions when losing the first cub, the cheetah family did not remain in the area or call for the cub. They had seen the lions kill the cub and there was no doubt as to its fate.

Greener pastures

After this the family’s fortune changed for the better. The two remaining cubs continued to grow, play and explore the home range. Lokesh’s bond with them stayed strong. He became a better hunter. By the end of May 2022, the family were still together. He would still play with his smaller siblings, but his behaviour towards the now older cubs became more sexual. The cubs responded with more defensive behaviour, less playful than before. The subadult male had remained with his mother for a total of 23 months.

The two young cubs are now big enough to outrun threats and are growing quickly. The Cheetahs of the Kalahari Project will keep monitoring these and other cheetahs within the southern Kalahari and hope to contribute to cheetah conservation in the wild with the knowledge we gain. One thing we know for sure is that cheetahs will never cease to amaze us!

Why is this case so special?

We at the Cheetahs of the Kalahari Project have a few years of experience working with or studying large carnivores in the wild, and we had never heard of a case in which a wild female cared simultaneously for her overlapping litters of different age groups. After consulting friends and colleagues we discovered how truly special this case was. Gus and Margie Mills who conducted the first extensive cheetah study in the southern Kalahari between 2006 and 2012, Vincent van der Merwe from the Endangered Wildlife Trust and Femke Broekhuis from the Serengeti Cheetah Project all have many years of field experience with wild cheetahs, and none of them had ever heard of a case like this. This (to our knowledge) is the first and most extensively studied case of a female cheetah with overlapping litters in natural history.

Resources

To learn more about cheetah behaviour, read here.

Citizen scientists contribute important data to the Cheetahs of the Kalahari Project. If you have been to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in the last ten years and have photographed cheetah there, share your pics and info with the Cheetahs of the Kalahari Project (cheetahsofkgalagadi@gmail.com). Include the location, date and any important additional info. Read more about the project here.

THIS WEEK

Chanan Weiss and his family connect with a mountain gorilla on Karisimbi Mountain, in Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda.

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Trophy hunting lions + Madagascar + Mara Champagne safari

The butterfly effect is a simplistic explanation of how a tiny movement – like a butterfly flapping its wings – can later result in a far greater effect elsewhere – like a tornado. Your African safari is a bit like that. And the more remote and off-the-beaten-track your destination is, the larger the local effect. Your holiday creates employment and sustainable livelihoods, which promotes pride, long-term thinking and substantial conservation benefits. Convince a friend to join you or follow in your footsteps and your butterfly effect will amplify. This is no bunny-hugger wishy-washy namby-pamby fairytale – it’s proven fact. And I have seen it with my own eyes – many times. Be a butterfly for Africa – create a whirlwind of safari goodness. My team are standing by for your safari enquiry.

This is a good time to remind you about the Africa Geographic manifesto – what drives teamAG and makes us do what we do

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Lion numbers have decreased by 43% throughout Africa in the past 25 years, and their range has declined by more than 90%. Trophy hunting cannot be tagged as the primary culprit for declining lion numbers, but there is little evidence to prove the wildlife conservation benefits that many supporters claim.

This week we share one of the most comprehensive overviews of the relationship between lion trophy hunting, community development and lion conservation. In our second story below, Dr. Hans Bauer, an Oxford University research fellow who has been working in the African conservation space for the past 25 years, examines how trophy hunting has delivered (or, as his findings reflect, failed to deliver) for wildlife on the continent, and highlights how local communities benefit very little from this industry. This is an important article that highlights challenges to conservation in Africa, and questions trophy hunting’s true value in habitat and wildlife preservation.

On a brighter note, we shine a light on one of the richest biodiversity hotspots in Africa, featuring tropical rainforests, azure lagoons, and white beaches. Northern Madagascar offers a wide array of weird and wonderful fauna, flora and scenery. Not to mention the opportunity to see fossas and lemurs up close! The extensive guide below is the last in our four-part Madagascar series, offering in-depth insight into travelling this magical land.

Happy travelling Africa to you all!

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

In a tiny pocket of forest in northwest Madagascar lives a very unusual lemur. It is critically endangered, and there are believed to be fewer than 1,000 individuals remaining. They look almost identical to the closely-related black lemur (Eulemur macaco) but for one striking difference…

Did you know that the blue-eyed black lemur (Eulemur flavifrons) is one of the only primate species apart from humans to have consistently blue eyes? As far as scientists can tell, there is no shared genetic basis between the blue eyes of humans and those of lemurs. Instead, it is an example of the convergent evolution of a rare phenotype on the distant branches of the primate family tree.

Just a fun fact to keep in mind while reading our first story below!

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/northern-madagascar-biodiversity-hotspot/
NORTHERN MADAGASCAR
Biodiversity, lush rainforests, mangroves, azure lagoons, palm-fringed beaches, lemurs and ferocious fossas

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/trophy-hunting-will-not-save-africas-lions-opinion-editorial/
LION TROPHY HUNTING
Op ed: Trophy hunting won’t save Africa’s lion populations & UK’s ban on imports is a positive conservation step – Hans Bauer

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

This signature Maasai Mara safari offers supreme luxury, a private vehicle, hot-air ballooning and champagne breakfasts. And your huge room has magnificent views as far as the eye can see

SPECIAL OFFER – pay 5, stay 4 – Arriving at El Karama Lodge in Kenya’s Laikipia is like walking into your own bushveld home – the privacy and authenticity evoke a sense of peace and relaxation. Enjoy activities to fill your day, or just chill at the pool after yoga and a massage. Expect locally sourced food and mouth-watering bushveld cuisine

Our East African adventure

App subscriber Chanan Weiss and family travelled to Rwanda, DRC and Tanzania’s Mafia Island with AG in June. Visiting Nyungwe Forest – one of Africa’s oldest rainforests – Chanan had the joy of coming across a troop of Angola colobus monkeys. Chanan captured this intimate moment between a colobus and its baby. The Weiss family also experienced straw-coloured fruit bats on Lake Kivu’s Napolean Island, Grauer’s gorilla in Kahuzi-Biéga National Park, and mountain gorillas in Volcanoes National Park.

“This was a long-anticipated adventure that was better than we could have imagined,” says Chanan.

Book with AG and you too can head out on an African adventure, and spend a few days on the mountainous edge of the Nyungwe Forest at dreamy forest retreat Nyungwe House.

WATCH: Why Africa needs community-led conservation: In this TED Talk, conservationist Resson Kantai Duff calls for a major shift in how conservation in Africa works, showing why the people closest to the land are the ones best fit to care for it (13:32). Click here to watch

Northern Madagascar

This time we adventure to northern Madagascar, in our four-part series on this wondrous island. See the resources section at the end of this story for the other three stories in the series.

For the last 88 million years, life on Madagascar has been on its own – creating an island of evolutionary oddities and myriad diverse travel experiences. Sometimes referred to as a “Noah’s Ark” or the “eighth continent” due to its geographic isolation and high levels of endemism, the island of Madagascar is, simply put, enormous. It is approximately 587,000km² (around two and a half times the size of the United Kingdom). A combination of ocean currents and dramatic topography has created a tapestry of different climates and habitats perfectly suited to the island’s peculiar inhabitants (or the other way round).

The island is home to over 300 recorded birds (60% of which are endemic) and 260 species of reptile – including two-thirds of the world’s chameleon species. There are over 110 species of lemurs spread throughout Madagascar’s protected areas, in a variety of shapes and sizes but all possessing a shared, wide-eyed charisma. Six of the world’s eight baobab species occur only in Madagascar. All in all, the natural history is unique, shaped by the fascinating and beautiful, isolated island habitats.

In an ideal world, a trip to Madagascar would extend over weeks to give the curious traveller every opportunity to explore the magnificent island. Realistically, however, time is usually limited and deciding where to invest one’s attention is guaranteed to create a significant traveller’s quandary. This four-part series is intended to help guide this decision.

Northern Madagascar

The island’s northernmost tip – the “tropical north” – is one of its richest biodiversity hotspots, with lush tropical rainforests and mangroves extending to azure lagoons and white, palm-fringed beaches. Here visitors will find the perfect chance to explore some of Madagascar’s whacky fauna, flora, and scenery in the national parks, before stretching out on the sand to admire the Indian Ocean, cocktail in hand.

The Diana Region of north Madagascar is home to some twenty protected areas, from national parks to “New Protected Areas” and strict nature reserves. These are scattered between picturesque cacao, coffee, and ylang-ylang plantations, while the coastline and the archipelago deliver a tropical paradise escape. From geographical wonders to endemic wildlife, northern Madagascar provides the most efficient opportunity to enjoy the best of Malagasy worlds with the added advantage of being off the main tourist route (with, perhaps, the exception of Nosy Be).

Amber Mountain National Park

Named for the copal deposits of amber resin from the forest’s trees, Amber Mountain National Park is Madagascar’s oldest national park. It is a small (182km²) reserve that packs a significant biodiversity punch. This unique montane rainforest pocket is known for its spectacular waterfalls, green-lit forest paths and crater lakes – a verdant mountain surrounded by arid lands. The tropical oasis was formed on an isolated volcanic massif, which receives more than three times the annual rainfall than the low altitude regions. The forests are decorated by liana-draped trees and orchids, while the floor is carpeted by ferns and lined with thick moss.

Like many of Madagascar’s protected areas, Amber Mountain is home to a treasure trove of unusual wildlife, including a multitude of mammals and an abundance of quirky reptiles. Naturally, the eight lemur species (including the newly discovered and endemic Montagne d’Ambre dwarf lemur) are the park’s flagship attraction, but the forest is also home to a number of Madagascar’s captivating predators. Visitors should keep an eye out for the russet ring-tailed vontsira (ring-tailed mongoose) and the genet-like Malagasy civet. For those with sharp eyes, chameleons such as the endemic Amber Mountain dwarf chameleon are hidden in plain sight on every surface from the leaves and bark to the litter on the forest floor. Imagine the thrill of finding your own Brookesia (dwarf chameleon) in Amber Mountain’s leaf litter-strewn paths.

Like most tropical African forests, Amber Mountain offers exciting birdlife: the endemic Amber Mountain rock thrush, the white-throated rail, Madagascar blue pigeon and even the odd sighting of the endangered Madagascar fish eagle.

Ankarana Special Reserve
and the “grey tsingy”

The Malagasy word “tsingy” is a perfect fit for the landscape of Ankarana Special Reserve, situated around 100km south of Diego Suarez. It translates roughly as a land where you cannot walk barefoot (alternatively, to walk on tiptoes). This, of course, could be applied to a significant portion of Madagascar, much of Africa and all public locker rooms but is particularly well suited to the jagged forest of limestone rocks that create one of the most bizarre landscapes imaginable. Prehistoric (literally – the rocks were formed some 150-million years ago) razor-sharp rocks have kept human advancement at bay, and wildlife has flourished as a result. (A much vaster example of this geology is Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park in western Madagascar.)

The pinnacles of rock in Ankarana rise from the plateau, and a network of well-maintained trails and rope bridges link vantage points, making exploration of the park strenuous but rewarding. Below, hidden within the rock crevices and canyons, are dense sections of dry forest home to one of the highest densities of primates anywhere in the world. Ankarana is a population stronghold of the endangered crowned lemur and Sanford’s brown lemur, both found only in northern Madagascar. It is also one of the few protected areas where sightings of Madagascar’s largest mammal predator – the fossa – are relatively common.

Clockwise from top left: Golden-brown mouse lemur; Sanford’s brown lemur; crowned lemur; ring-tailed mongoose

The geography is as fascinating below ground as it is above it. The foundations of the Ankarana Reserve are riddled with caves and tunnels – remnants of a time when the area was an underwater coral reef. The reserve is steeped in the history of the Antankarana people who once sought refuge in these caves, undeterred by the presence of the enormous Madagascan free-tailed bats. Some of the caves remain sacred and are out of bounds for visitors because of local beliefs and taboos. Even more bizarrely, some of these watery channels can only be explored at certain times of the year (November to April) because they are otherwise inhabited by Nile crocodiles! Though the chances of encountering a crocodile are slim, the fact that these creatures have adapted to life in the gloom of a cave for most of the year is astonishing. Though considerably smaller than the crocodiles, massive Oustalet’s, panther chameleons and superbly camouflaged leaf-tailed geckos abound in Ankarana.

Red Tsingy

Between Ankarana and the main city of Antsiranana (previously Diégo-Suarez), a much smaller tsingy-like region exists, referred to as the “Tsingy Rouge”. Here the scarlet sands have eroded to make crimson spires of dried silt. Unlike the uncompromising solidity of the grey tsingy, the Red Tsingy is fragile, and visitors are now prohibited from standing on or among the stalagmites.

The Nosy Be Archipelago

After the rigours of enthralling but rough-and-ready exploration, the final stop in any tour of northern Madagascar must be a visit to one of the region’s pristine coastlines where you can laze on the beach and maybe be lucky enough to revel in the sight of a white-tailed tropicbird gliding over the coastline. Visitors can choose to stop off at the region’s capital – Antsiranana – for a less exorbitantly priced beach holiday or retreat to the seclusion of one of the offshore islands.

Nosy Be translates as “big island” and is one of Madagascar’s most popular tourist destinations. Here the luscious scents of cinnamon, vanilla, frangipani, and ylang-ylang plantations infuse the air, creating an olfactory extravaganza – hence the nickname “perfume island”. Nosy Be is a tropical paradise for beach-lovers, with warm clear waters, coral reefs, and water sports like kite surfing and scuba diving. The thrill of sighting a whale shark off the beaches is also a highlight. Away from the white sands, the Lokobe Strict Reserve is one of the best places in Madagascar to see the endangered, gremlin-like black lemurs.

Nosy Be is also the gateway to some smaller and often uninhabited islands. You might share a reef off Nosy Tanikly with a pod of dolphins, enjoy a beach picnic on the isthmus of Nosy Iranja. Kayaking in the silent dawn around Nosy Sakatia might thrill you with the sound of a leatherback turtle breaking the surface to breathe. While a sunset from Tsara Komba, sunkissed, salty-lipped and holding a Kumquat Rhum Arrange cocktail in hand is the perfect way to celebrate a day well spent.

Stunning beaches, oceans and hospitality of northern Madagascar

The ins and outs of exploring Madagascar

Madagascar’s tropical climate is typically enjoyable all year round, though the wet season runs from November to March, usually with minimal winds. February carries the highest risk of fierce tropical cyclones. The cooler dry season from April until October alleviates the worst of the oppressive heat, particularly when hiking on the islands or through Ankarana Special Reserve. The winds pick up at the beaches, making it the ideal time for kite surfing enthusiasts but less pleasant for those who do not appreciate being stung by grains of sand.

There are plenty of budget and camping opportunities in or near all of the destinations mentioned above. It is advisable to travel in Madagascar with a reputable company, but it is possible to hire a car to drive between the various attractions. However, the roads are bad, particularly during the wet season, and a 4 x 4 is essential. That said, road travel is fascinating and often accompanied by the glorious scent of roadside-roasted cashew nuts.

Final thoughts

Northern Madagascar is a fantastical land – a natural evolutionary playground and a human kaleidoscope of cultural influences. Remarkable, offbeat, and enticing, this magical island offers an intoxicating combination of unique wildlife viewing and magnificent scenery. There is far more to Madagascar than our four-part series could ever hope to convey, but there is no question that it is a country with something to offer everyone. Our travel consultants are always on standby to help you plan the Madagascan holiday of your dreams.

Want to go on safari to Northern Madagascar? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

Resources

South and Central Madagascar

Eastern Madagascar

Western Madagascar

Lemurs of Madagascar

Fossa: Five fascinating facts

Madagascar photo gallery

Photographers:

Ken Behrens is a birder, naturalist, consultant, guide, and photographer, who is based in Madagascar. He is the co-author of several books, including Wildlife of Madagascar. His work can be seen at ken-behrens.com

Alastair Marsh’s photography can be seen and purchased from www.alastairmarsh.co.uk

Nosy Hara leaf chameleon (left) and panther chameleon

Trophy hunting will not save Africa’s lions – Opinion editorial

By Hans Bauer, Research fellow: Northern Lion Conservation, University of Oxford. Originally published by The Conversation

Trophy hunting will not save Africa’s lions – so the UK ban on imports is a positive step for wildlife conservation. Over the past 25 years, I have spent a lot of time counting lions as part of my job. Only last month, I spent three hours with two males – possibly brothers – right next to my car in Maze National Park, Ethiopia. Lions come in the night, very quietly. Despite weighing well over 150kg, you do not hear their footsteps. What you hear is their breathing, the turbo of the killing machine.

Had I turned on a light immediately, they would have run away. These lions are skittish, even if they face no threat from trophy hunters in Africa’s national parks. So we spend half an hour in the pitch dark before I finally switch on a small red light to count the eye reflections. Another pause, then a bigger red light enables us to see their sex and age.

We get lucky: with the big spotlight they move to a discrete distance, but we still get to watch them for an hour before retiring to our tents a few hundred metres away. The lions have long lost interest in us but the ranger makes a campfire which smoulders all night, just to be safe. This park has no outposts, no visitors and no emergency services, so we need to stay out of trouble.

Maybe you have counted lions in a zoo or wildlife park: “I see three – no wait, there’s a tip of another tail and a flickering ear, so four, or five?” People on safari in popular destinations where lions are habituated to cars may have had the same experience. In the wilderness, however, lions are hard to spot – across much of their range you don’t see them very often at all, especially during the day.

I have spent countless nights sitting on top of my vehicle, playing buffalo or warthog cries with a megaphone, trying to catch a glimpse of lions attracted by these sounds. I have walked for days to find footprints or put up automated camera traps. For every day of fieldwork there is a day of grant writing before and a day of reporting afterwards – but yes, it is a wonderful job.

I once found lions in a part of Ethiopia where they had not been documented and added a blob on the distribution map. Unfortunately, over the last 25 years, it has been much more common to reduce or delete entries from our African Lion Database.

My research shows that during this time, lion numbers have decreased by 43% throughout Africa, and that their range has declined by more than 90%. There are now roughly 25,000 lions in 60 separate population groups, half of which consist of less than 100 lions. Their existence is particularly threatened across West, Central and East Africa.

Lion hunting — Lion range throughout Africa has declined by more than 90%

I first went to Cameroon in 1992 to do my Master’s project in Waza National Park, and have worked in various parts of Africa ever since (I currently live in Mali). My main research focus with WildCRU – Europe’s first university-based conservation research unit – is the mitigation of human-lion conflicts. I study the difficult balance between people’s livelihoods and the conservation of biodiversity, working close-up at village level but also at national and international perspectives.

This led to me being asked to give evidence to the UK’s All-Party Parliamentary Group (APPG) on Banning Trophy Hunting, which on 29 June 2022 presented its report on the impacts of trophy hunting to the environment secretary, George Eustice. This follows the UK government’s announcement in December 2021 that it would ban the importing of body parts of 7,000 species* including lions, rhinos, elephants and polar bears. On average, roughly ten lion “trophies” are imported into the UK each year, among many other threatened species.

There are many ways to look at this issue, and the debate usually ends up in a deadlock between utilitarians and moralists. I won’t hide my sympathy for the latter – I work with organisations such as the Born Free Foundation. But after a week in the field living on pasta and tinned tomato sauce, I will eat bushmeat in a village with no alternatives if it has been harvested legally and sustainably.

The future of trophy hunting in Africa was not on the table during the APPG’s discussions about a UK import ban – and if it was, it would be for African scientists to advise their governments of the pros and cons. In my view, however, the evidence is clear that trophy hunting has not delivered for wildlife in most parts of Africa, and that local communities benefit next to nothing from its continued practice.

How trophy hunting works

Trophy hunting is a controversial topic in conservation circles. In some cases, the fact that lions are doing better in parts of southern Africa has – wrongly, in my view – been attributed to it. But in itself, trophy hunting is not the lions’ biggest threat either; my research shows that more are killed when they attack livestock, or perish when their habitat and prey is diminished by agricultural encroachment or poaching.

In Africa, trophy hunting’s popularity grew during colonial times when all sorts of slain animals were sent back to Europe. Nowadays, antelopes are this industry’s most hunted animals – but the most prestigious targets remain the “big five”: lion, leopard, elephant, rhinoceros and buffalo.

A client might pay a local entrepreneur or hunting guide anywhere between £10,000 and £100,000 for a “bag” that includes a lion – and the super-rich may pay (or donate) even more. It’s a lot of money for a holiday, and trophy hunting mostly attracts rich, white, middle-aged men from western countries.

Hunting guides are businessmen (almost all are male). They generally lease government land that has been designated for conservation through “sustainable use”. Known as trophy hunting “blocks”, these areas vary widely (anywhere between 500km² and 5,000km²) and each has annual quotas for the amounts of different species that may be shot by trophy hunters.

In theory, this restricts the killings to a level the population can sustain. Hunting guides then manage their blocks to maintain these wildlife numbers, including organising anti-poaching patrols. The guides employ staff, pay the land lease, trophy fees and a bunch of other costs – including to a taxidermist and export company to deliver the skin and skull to their client after the kill. It is a big industry that claims to be good for both wildlife and local people, but these guides are not charity workers; they maximise their benefits and minimise their costs.

Trophy hunting also does not focus (as is sometimes suggested) on killing off the older, weaker animals in any block. Wildlife populations grow fastest when their densities are low, so that food and aggression are not limiting factors. In order to minimise any such competition – and to offer the biggest trophies – trophy hunts will target healthy animals, not just the old and infirm.

Lions, lion hunting and livestock

The methodology used for setting trophy hunting quotas varies from country to country. Cameroon, for example, has traditionally had very high quotas for lions, but these were not based on scientific rigour. In 2015 we published our first survey results based on observations done by three teams tracking lions over a vast range.

Each team drove for thousands of kilometres across Cameroon, very slowly, always with two trackers stationed on the bonnet of each 4×4 looking for footprints. We got stuck, camped, waited for trophy hunters to depart before being allowed into a particular area, struggled to get diesel, tolerated the heat and the tsetse flies – it was all part of our daily routine following the lions.

Ultimately, we counted 250 lions, 316 leopards and 1,376 spotted hyenas. Cameroon does not offer a trophy hunting quota for leopards, and hyenas are not popular with hunters – but as a result of our count, the country’s annual lion quota was reduced from 30 to ten. Today this quota is still applied throughout northern Cameroon’s Bénoué ecosystem, which has 32 trophy hunting blocks in between its three national parks.

Of these 32 blocks, however, more than ten no longer have any resident lions. And when the blocks lose their lions, this also threatens those living in the national parks – as there is a big difference between having 250 lions spread across 30,000km² of contiguous habitat, or three isolated populations of 50 in parks of 3,000km² each.

When I visited Cameroon again in 2021, I observed cattle everywhere – which is not a good combination with lions. Many of these herds had come from neighbouring countries – pastoralists running from the threat of terrorists in Mali and Niger. As a result, the pressure on these areas, and those who manage them, is intense. It is hard enough to integrate local communities in conservation work, much harder with nomadic people.

Whenever livestock grazes in an area with lions, you inevitably get some depredation. Lions will kill some livestock and, in retaliation, people will kill some lions. This is perhaps the biggest challenge in lion conservation, and all the programmes I know are working to mitigate it. There are tools available to reduce the damage, from flashlights and watchdogs to mobile enclosures and more. But this only works if you know the people living there and can collaborate towards a common goal – not if you have different people passing through every time.

In fact, the pastoralists I have met are usually quite tolerant – they like lions. A herder in Cameroon once told me: “If a lion attacks one cow this year, I will know that God has not forgotten me.” Another in Ethiopia said: “We do not think lions take our livestock to hurt us. As a result, we do not refer to it as an ‘attack’ or ‘killing’ – they are taking what they need.”

Nonetheless, some people – pastoralists and others – inevitably pay a high price for co-existing with lions, and they would prefer them in someone else’s backyard.

I have collared lions in several countries. I know the thrill of a hunt, but a dart gun does not kill – and the information you get from a lion’s collar is amazing. In Waza National Park, I followed lions this way and some behaved very well – but the worst offender killed a hundred-thousand dollars’ worth of cattle in our time there. The park’s warden asked me: “How long do you think the local people will pay this price for lion conservation?”

Almost all lion trophy hunting zones in Africa are part of larger ecosystems that include national parks, and in most cases the hunt quotas are based on the entire population of lions, including those living in the parks. An argument used by trophy hunters is that they are protecting extra land with extra lions – but it’s not that simple.

While trophy hunting blocks do add lions and extra habitat, they can still become a drain on the overall population when lions move out of the parks into emptied territories within the blocks. These so-called “source-sink dynamics” became a global news story in July 2015 because of Cecil, the black-maned lion that my WildCRU colleagues were satellite-tracking when he was killed by an American trophy hunter.

Cecil had been lured from Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe and was shot by Walter Palmer, a dentist from the Minneapolis area. It was actually quite a routine occurrence, but the death of Cecil the Lion created a worldwide media storm – feeding into the UK’s proposal for a ban on trophy hunt imports.

The lion hunting model starts to unravel

Throughout most of Africa, lion numbers are declining. While trophy hunting is far from the only reason for this, the evidence clearly shows it has failed in its promise to provide a significant boost to wildlife conservation. I once thought it might offer benefits too, but studying its impacts and costs has taught me otherwise.

Trophy hunting is allowed in countries throughout East, Central and West Africa including Burkina Faso, Benin, Central African Republic, Cameroon, Ethiopia, Sudan and the Congo – and in all these countries, lion declines have been particularly steep. The Central African Republic is the most extreme example: almost half the country was designated as hunting blocks, yet wildlife there has all but disappeared. In 2012, the late researcher and conservationist Philippe Bouché published Game Over! – the title said it all.

Trophy hunting has proved increasingly vulnerable to, on one hand, rising management costs due to the increased threats of agricultural encroachment and poaching (of both lions and their prey), and on the other, reduced income from smaller wildlife populations.

Two rules-of-thumb are widely used: a sustainable annual “harvest” is one lion per 2,000km², and the annual management of a trophy hunt block costs around US$1,000 per km². Together, they suggest it costs around two million dollars to “produce a lion”. These numbers vary hugely between areas and, of course, trophy hunters shoot other species at the same time, but exceptional conditions are needed for the hunt companies to break even. At the same time, local communities living with wildlife are, understandably, demanding their fair share. The model starts to unravel and fall apart.

In Zambia and Tanzania, for example, 40% and 72% respectively of trophy hunting areas have been abandoned. Management costs are rising and private operators do not find it profitable anymore, except in a handful of the best areas. This is not due to any outright ban but rather, the inability to balance costs and benefits.

Across Africa, in the vast majority of cases, trophy hunting has not delivered more lions – whether because of financial imbalances, increased terrorism, land mismanagement or increased livestock mobility (or a combination of these factors). This failure to deliver undermines the already contested justification for the continued killing of lions by trophy hunters. And as the decline continues, many communities stand to lose a wildlife heritage that could, under a different approach to conservation, provide them with employment and stability.

Success stories?

Namibia and Botswana in southern Africa are often cited as models for conservation, which implies their experience could be replicated elsewhere. Trophy hunting has been presented as a success factor in these countries. But in reality, how instructive are the experiences of two large countries with a combined population of less than 5 million people for the other billion-plus Africans living in more densely populated areas?

Certainly, these two countries have a lot of wildlife – but is this due to the effects of trophy hunting, or to very low human population densities, diversified tourism industries and well-resourced wildlife institutions? In Botswana, trophy hunting was banned from 2014 to 2020, but despite abundant polemicising from both pro- and anti-hunting advocacy groups, I’m not aware of any evidence of a significant impact on its national lion and elephant numbers. In short, Botswana’s conservation efforts will succeed with or without trophy hunting.

While southern Africa has, in general, been quite successful in keeping its wildlife species stable, this is also not always through natural processes. There has been a lot of habitat engineering and captive breeding, so that many of the animals you find in confined nature reserves are, in fact, bred and auctioned.

In South Africa, for example, around 8,000 lions live in captivity for the benefit of a small number of rich owners, having been bred like livestock. This model does nothing to improve habitat or biodiversity levels, nor does it support rural socio-economic development. The country’s overall trophy hunting quota is around five wild lions and 500 captive lions each year, and while the US banned trophy imports from South Africa in 2016, most imported lion trophies into the UK have been killed there.

Another issue for Africa as a whole is that biologists have flocked to southern Africa’s conservation hotspots such as the Okavango Delta in Botswana and Kruger National Park in South Africa, which possess good infrastructure and lots of wildlife. As a result, there is an over-representation of people who have worked there among Africa’s community of conservation science, advocacy and practice. Many may never have worked outside southern Africa, and may not be aware of what is happening in the rest of the continent.

I’m not denying that some countries have been successful in their conservation efforts, and that trophy hunting has, in isolated cases, been part of that success. But the “if it pays, it stays” approach which seems to underpin many arguments in favour of trophy hunting has much more often led to the loss of natural ecosystems. This decay affects the vast majority of lion ranges, and an even greater majority of African citizens.

The banning of trophy hunt imports in the UK and elsewhere can, I believe, help to reduce or even reverse this decline. The UK ban is supported by a large majority of British voters. France, the Netherlands and Australia have already banned lion trophy imports, and the EU and US have restricted their imports. Since most clients want their trophy, that means significantly fewer potential clients overall, indirectly affecting Africa’s policy options.

The way forward

Throughout the continent, most policymakers stick to the prevailing narrative that trophy hunting supports conservation. In this way, a small white elite continues to have exclusive access to conservation areas that are off-limits for the average citizen to visit, or for public agencies to invest in. Trophy hunting is getting in the way of much-needed innovation and investment.

I agree with trophy hunters that the land they use is important habitat for lions and their prey. No one wants these areas to spiral down. However, the current situation feels like that famous frog in boiling water story – countries in Africa are afraid to jump out until they no longer can.

The largest and most important conservation area in West Africa is the 25,000km² W-Arly-Pendjari (WAP) region, on the boundary between Benin, Burkina Faso and Niger. With around 400 lions, it is the only three-digit lion population in West Africa, and it also possesses the largest West African populations of elephant and buffalo.

Half of WAP’s land is managed for trophy hunting. Yet over 20 years, these blocks have contributed less than 1% of the region’s total conservation budget. Much of the area is now increasingly threatened by terrorist incursions and large parts have been abandoned, including the hunting blocks.

In Benin, however, the situation is changing. Lion trophy hunting has been ditched and a trust fund established that promises to fund the country’s conservation activities in perpetuity. While mainly funded by Benin and German government agencies, the fund has an independent international structure and several other donors have contributed. The park’s management, now delegated to a non-profit organisation, is striving to improve local livelihoods by generating employment and offering support for community initiatives that do not harm the local wildlife.

Of course, we should not expect wildlife to fix poverty and instability where 50 years of development work have been unsuccessful. But I visit Benin every year and where I used to find a dozen friendly but unorganised staff, I now see hundreds of local people trained, employed and proud. In the past, some children might have gone to school reluctant to learn things they would not need as subsistence farmers. After visiting the park, however, I see signs that they want to learn skills and compete for career options their parents did not have.

Another glimpse of a better future can be seen in Akagera National Park, Rwanda, which was completely depleted in the 1980s and 1990s. Rwanda is the only country in Africa with a population density higher than India’s. It is a country facing a huge number of challenges, yet Akagera is a conservation success story. Following an initial investment in the area’s recovery, it is now breaking even through ecotourism with primarily Rwandan visitors. While this cannot be expected to work everywhere, it has worked in this most unlikely of places.

The true cost of saving African lions, and their prey and habitats, is estimated to be around US$ 1 billion per year. With such funding, Africa could quadruple its lion numbers up to 100,000 without creating any new protected areas. At the moment, lions exist at only about a quarter of their ranges’ full capacities. Funding and community engagement are both critical to increasing this figure.

Ultimately, international solidarity is a much more substantial, and sustainable, source of funding than trophy hunting. Our approach to the extinction crisis should be similar to the one for climate: biodiversity justice as well as climate justice. The 2021 COP26 climate summit in Glasgow discussed the proposed annual fund of US$100 billion to help less wealthy nations adapt to climate change and mitigate further rises in temperature. A similar fund for supporting global biodiversity will be proposed at the COP15 summit in Montreal in December 2023. A billion dollars for Africa’s lions and other wildlife may sound unrealistic, but in the arena of international policy, it should not really be a problem.

African nations are sovereign, and hold the key to the future of the lion. Some may be keen to retain trophy hunting – but they know that demand is shrinking as UK politicians are the latest to respond to the concerns of their constituents.

Above all, the trophy hunting debate is divisive, draining energy from conservationists in Africa and around the world who agree on most other issues. Now is surely the time to focus our efforts on far better alternatives for the conservation of lions and other endangered species.

Remember those two lions in Maze National Park? They are part of a small population which has the park as its core area, but which roam the entire landscape in that part of southern Ethiopia. Sometimes a few lions make it across to the next park for some welcome genetic exchange. Maze’s head warden has lots of rangers to assist in monitoring them, but only one motorbike. There is no hotel for hours around, no fuel station, no media. He does not need trophy hunters, he needs a car.

* Ed’s note: While this figure has been retrieved from the official announcement by the UK government, the validity of the number “7,000” has been brought into question by researchers, who claim only 73 different species have been imported into Britain in the past 40 years.

Resources

Lion hunting sustainability in Africa has been extensively investigated by pragmatic experts desperate to conserve our remaining wild lions – read more here.

Read 27 things you need to know about lion hunting and trophy imports in the US, and the impact lion hunting is having in Africa.

Read an opinion post by Dereck Joubert on lion hunting, in which he refutes claims of its so-called benefits.

Dr Craig Packer, known for his research on lions in Tanzania, has been calling on the lion hunting industry and government departments to adopt a transparent, scientifically-based strategy to ensure the sustainability of lion populations. Read our interview with Dr Packer here.

Massive meta-analysis on recreational hunting (including lion hunting) fails to find answers to the crucial questions of the polarising hunting debate. Read the insights that 50 years of scientific research bring to the debate.

THIS WEEK

On safari with Africa Geographic. Klaserie Private Nature Reserve – Greater Kruger, South Africa

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Wild Meru + Pongola’s elephant crisis + Maasai Mara photo safari

There is much debate about the impact of Kruger’s increasing elephant population on trees – especially knobthorn and marula. Often the discussions degenerate to hardliners calling for elephants to be culled in large numbers to protect trees.

Did you know that impalas destroy countless tree saplings? And that there is a growing body of evidence relating to a complex relationship between elephants, fire and climate change regarding treefall rates and bush encroachment?

Decision-makers have realised that the provision of artificial dams and waterholes is a significant reason for the ‘elephant problem’. You see, elephants remain near these water sources during the dry months and denude the nearby trees – instead of roaming far and wide as they would usually do. The removal of these manmade water sources is ongoing in the Kruger National Park. However, this same strategy is not being pursued in the contiguous private game reserves (the Greater Kruger) – probably because the negative impact on the tourism experience would be significant. I have seen some dams in the private reserves being renovated and, in the process, made larger. Hmmmmm …

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Think of the quintessential African safari and your mind will surely conjure images of the baobab-dotted savannahs of Kenya. You’ll picture wildebeest herds spread across the Maasai Mara, and elephants trundling the plains below Mt Kilimanjaro. But there is a resilient protected area in the country that doesn’t always get the attention it deserves. Meru National Park is a vital wilderness area in Kenya. As home to arguably one of the most famous lions in history – Elsa of Born Free fame – Meru captures the nostalgia of the true African safari. Check out our first story below for all the insights you need to visit this magnificent piece of the continent.

This week we’re also delving into a complex wildlife management issue. Pongola Game Reserve (PGR) in northern KwaZulu-Natal recently announced it would no longer be keeping elephants on its property. We have given PGR General Manager Malcolm Thomson the platform to explain the reserve’s decision. Faced with rapidly growing elephant populations and many restrictions on the management of these numbers, Malcolm explains it is no longer practical, viable or economically sustainable for PGR to host elephants. This is an important story in highlighting the management challenges elephants pose for landowners. Read about these challenges below.

Happy celebrating Africa to you all!

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Did you know that in a secret valley in the Maasai Mara (the Mara Triangle, to be exact), there is a forsaken Volkswagen bus? It has been there for over thirty years, abandoned after a breakdown and reclaimed by nature to be used as a jackal den. Hidden within is a geocache (for those not in the know, geocaching is a global, GPS-based treasure hunt).

Have you ever seen the Mara Triangle VW? What are some of the best-kept historical secrets of Africa’s wild spaces? Download our app and share your comments below!

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/meru-national-park/
WILD MERU
Meru National Park is a resilient expanse of vital Kenyan wilderness. This Big 5 safari destination of ‘Born Free’ fame is a land reborn

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/pongolas-elephant-management-crisis/
SHEDDING ELEPHANTS
Pongola Game Reserve can no longer keep its elephants. Malcolm Thomson explains the challenges of elephant management

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Our most spectacular photographer-guided safari is back! New 2023 dates and prices are available for this cracker of an adventure in the Maasai Mara.

Desert & delta safari – 11 days traversing the Okavango Delta, Chobe and Nxai Pan national parks (Botswana) and Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe). Mid-range and luxury itineraries available.

OR, design your own safari – login to our app, tap/click the ‘Travel with us’ tab, select ‘lodges’. You can filter the lodges by place and even select lodges in non-malaria areas. You can add lodges to your wishlist – which will remain saved until you choose to edit or delete.

Make an impact with AG

The AG tribe has done it again! By donating to our hand-picked conservation projects via the app, you’ve made a huge difference to Africa’s wildlife. Moses Selebatso, from Kalahari Research and Conservation, writes:

“We are sincerely thankful for the donation received from Africa Geographic app subscribers. With the donation, we’ve been able to continue our annual commitment to improving the breeding success of the endangered Cape vultures in Botswana. In 2018, research findings showed that bone deformities in Cape vulture chicks were preventing chicks from flying, and in some cases causing fatalities. This inspired a new project – providing bone fragments to supplement the vultures’ diet to improve eggshell structure as well as strong bone development. The donations received from AG subscribers helped us provide this much-needed supplementation.”

Photo: Cape vultures feeding on bone fragments, photographed by KRC’s camera traps (left), and a Cape vulture pictured in flight (right).

WATCH: The warthogs and mongooses of Mweya, Uganda, have developed a very interesting symbiotic relationship. Watch to see a warthog take a trip to the mongoose spa (01:53). Click here to watch

Meru National Park

With unearthly stands of gaunt doum palms, sprawling grasslands, twisting riverine forests, and swamps populated by abundant wildlife, Meru National Park is perhaps Kenya’s best-kept (or maybe forgotten) safari secret. Exploring this national park is less about ticking off a checklist or rushing to the next sighting, and more about marvelling at the scale of this unspoilt wilderness free from the crowds of the more popular Kenyan safari circuits.

There is no doubt that had Joy Adamson still been alive today to witness the miraculous recovery of Meru National Park, she would have been delighted. Today, the park has been restored to its former glory – a magnificent chunk of wilderness central to one of Kenya’s largest protected areas.

Meru National Park and the Meru Conservation Area

Meru National Park occupies 870km² (870,000 hectares) of central Kenya, some 300km from the capital city Nairobi and offering views of snow-capped Mount Kenya on the distant western horizon. The park forms a vital part of the much larger Meru Conservation Area, which centres around the Tana River system and protects nearly 5,000km² (five million hectares). It covers habitats that range from lush green vegetation on rich volcanic soils to semi-arid scrublands and open plains. In addition to the Meru National Park, the complex of protected areas includes Bisanadi, Rahole and Mwingi (formerly Kitui North) National Reserves and the massive Kora National Park. The result is one of Kenya’s most extensive protected spaces, second only to the Tsavo ecosystem in size.

Meru National Park	807km² (87,000 hectares)
Kora National Park	1,787km² (178,700 hectares)
Bisanadi National Reserve	606km² (60,600 hectares)
Mwingi National Reserve	745 km² (74,500 hectares)
Rahole National Reserve	870km² (87,000 hectares)

The Tana River that marks Meru National Park’s southern boundary is Kenya’s longest river, flowing from the Aberdare Mountain Range and fed by springs from Mount Kenya, before winding a sinuous path to the Indian Ocean. The many permanent rivers that flow through Meru, including the major Rojerwero and Ura Rivers, are part of the Tana River basin and define the landscape of the park. These waterways are fed by springs on the Nyambeni Mountains and flow in parallel, creating the impression that the park is made up of a series of islands. Beneath a thick fringe of riverine forest, hippos and crocodiles lurk in the dark waters.

Many permanent rivers that flow through Meru form part of the Tana River basin

The wilderness that inspired Born Free

Like many of Africa’s protected areas, Meru’s story is one of triumphs and tragedies. The park gained international renown during the 1960s when the adventures of George and Joy Adamson and their hand-raised lioness Elsa made first literary and then cinematic history. The Adamsons raised Elsa from a cub, and Joy documented their experiences in a series of novels, the Born Free series. Elsa was eventually released into Meru National Park to live wild, and her final resting place is marked by a small gravesite on the park’s southern boundary. The park’s popularity skyrocketed when the eponymous film was produced, and visitors flocked to explore the famous setting.

Tragedy struck during the 1980s as poaching and unrest tore through much of Kenya. Both Joy and George were murdered in separate incidents, and the region’s wildlife was decimated. The park fell into disrepair, and the flood of tourists slowed to a trickle before drying up almost entirely. Hope came some 20 years later when concerted conservation work by the Kenyan Wildlife Service, the French Development Agency and the International Fund for Animal Welfare set in motion the painstaking process of returning the park to its former glory. The infrastructure was repaired with a substantial cash donation, and security and anti-poaching measures were put in place.

For the birds, and the Big 5

Today, the park is one of the country’s best maintained, but, more importantly, the wildlife and ecosystem have bounced back. Relocations of various species bolstered remaining populations, and Big 5 sightings are increasingly common (though not guaranteed). Elephant numbers have grown from fewer than 210 at the height of the poaching to over 670 at present. The region is also considered a Lion Conservation Unit by the IUCN. Though the long grasses in some areas can make predator spotting challenging, lions, cheetahs, and leopards are all present in healthy numbers, and encounters are even more special because they are seldom shared with anyone else.

The park’s reintroduced rhinos – black and white – are restricted to a smaller, fenced sanctuary where they can be best protected. However, this does little to detract from the wildness of the experience – the 84km² (8,400 hectares) enclosure section is perfectly sized to ensure that eager tourists have to work for their sightings!

Iconic animals aside, the many varied habitats of Meru are made all the more unique by the disparate rainfall levels across the park. This ensures a spectacular variety of fauna and flora, from moist savanna to the more arid specialists. Large herds of buffalos, impalas and zebras trudge through the swamps and feed alongside the rivers, and the sharp whistles of alarmed Bohor reedbucks hint at their presence in the reeds. The stark geometric patterns of reticulated giraffes tower over the woodlands. Lesser kudus, gerenuks, common beisa oryx, Grévy’s zebras and Somali ostriches prefer the drier parts of the park, while the tiny Günther’s and Kirk’s dik-diks are ubiquitous throughout.

The same diversity of habitats supporting Meru’s assortment of mammal species makes the park exceptionally attractive to birding enthusiasts. Over 400 species have been recorded here, with everything from wetland birds to grass and woodland specials. Pel’s fishing owls lurk beneath the canopies of the dense river trees, and recent sightings of threatened Hinde’s babblers in the park had birders aflutter. Other birds of particular interest include African finfoots, red-necked falcons, three-banded coursers, Somali bee-eaters, golden palm weavers, Boran cisticolas and black-billed wood hoopoes.

Explore & Stay

Want to go on safari to Meru? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

Though the safari experience in Meru matches, if not outstrips, that of many of Kenya’s more popular safari destinations, visitor numbers to the park have remained low. The result is an extraordinary sense of true wilderness that the Kenyan Wildlife Service describes as “brilliant on a magnificent scale”. From the vantage point of one of the many rocky outcrops, travellers can look out across the diverse scenery without another person in sight.

The park is easily accessible via the tar road from Nairobi or direct flight to an airstrip. There are several well-maintained public campsites for those looking to explore on a budget. The roads are generally in exceptional condition, and navigating the park is made simple by sign-posted junctions.

Though Meru is open throughout the year, the best wildlife viewing occurs during the long dry season from June until September. Like much of East Africa, the park experiences two rainy seasons: the long rains from March until May and the short rains in October and November. The long grasses during the rainy season can make it difficult to see animals, and elephants often move out of the park along ancient migratory paths to the north. Given its Equatorial position, daytime temperatures vary little throughout the year, and the days in Meru are usually hot and often dry.

There are several other activities in and around the park for those with spare time (or for whom the excitement of daily game drives has palled). A trip to Adamson Falls, where the Tana River is forced through a narrow rock valley, is a popular attraction. Walking safaris offer the perfect opportunity to take in the scenery at a more sedate pace.

Further afield, outside the confines of the park, riverboat tours of the Tana River, fly camping, fishing and horse- and camelback safaris are all options for more intrepid tourists.

For those looking for a more luxurious experience, several tiny boutique lodges and camps in and around the park are perfectly positioned in some of the most scenic parts of Meru. The quiet and intimate arrangement makes Meru a perfect destination for families with children.

A land triumphantly reborn

It is common for travel articles on Meru (and many other parts of Africa) to describe the park as “unspoilt”. This is an understandably attractive representation – one which recreates the ‘blue chip’ documentary feeling of a vast wilderness untouched by human influence. But Meru is not untouched or unspoilt and to describe it as such is to understate the effort that has gone into undoing the damage of history.

Instead, Meru National Park is an extraordinary expanse of vital Kenyan wilderness, restored and resilient. And in the process, it has returned once again to a safe and immersive safari destination – a land reborn.

Pongola’s elephant management crisis

Elephant in Pongola during drought — An elephant photographed in Pongola Game Reserve during a lengthy period of drought

EDITOR’S COMMENT: Pongola Game Reserve in northern KwaZulu-Natal is home to an impressive array of wildlife, including four of the Big Five (excluding lion), hippopotamus and crocodile. The reserve (and in particular, one of its main landowners, the Karel Landman Trust) recently broke the news that it would no longer be keeping elephants on its property. In this opinion editorial, the general manager for Pongola Game Reserve, Malcolm Thomson, explains the management challenges that led the KLT to this decision. Africa Geographic has provided the reserve with the platform to lay these issues out on the table from the perspective of private landowners as a case study for how these practicalities play out on the ground. Views are the author’s own. One thing is clear: there are no easy answers when it comes to managing elephant populations in small reserves and finding humane and practical solutions to real problems.

Update 20 January 2023: There has been an increase in the number of human-wildlife conflict incidents on the eastern shores of Jozini Dam in recent months, with a reported 69 elephants roaming the dam’s shores after escaping Pongola Game Reserve East into Phongola Nature Reserve. According to the reports, at least 25 elephants have been killed in poaching incidents related to this conflict. In an incident on January 11^th, tourists on a cruise boat on Jozini Dam were forced to take cover as poachers were firing shots nearby. Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife announced it will be engaging with the PGRE to translocate the elephants back onto the PGRE property or into a suitable protected area as early as March//April 2023. Ezemvelo said it had also engaged with the local community to discuss the recent incidents of human-wildlife conflict.

By Malcolm Thomson – General Manager: Pongola Game Reserve

The current situation regarding elephant management and maintenance of elephants on private property in South Africa has led to many private landowners who have elephants on their property having to rethink their positions on whether to keep them there. Many reserves are not dependent on the tourism value of these elephants. Current legislation, and the national norms and standards regarding their management, place so many restrictions on elephant management that, for many, it is no longer practical, viable or economically sustainable to host elephants.

Many years ago, when legislation in South Africa changed to allow private landowners to own the wildlife on their property, wildlife numbers increased substantially due to the establishment of many private game reserves and because wildlife had value. It became viable to maintain and manage wildlife on a sustainable-use basis (through both consumptive and non-consumptive utilisation). This benefited wildlife to such an extent that more land is conserved on private property in South Africa today than in state-owned reserves. Conservation can be defined as “the wise, sustainable utilisation of our natural resources”. Elephants are just one species of many that private landowners manage towards the goal of wise, sustainable utilisation.

The current restrictions on elephant management are set to reverse the above gains made in private wildlife management. Elephants will soon begin to disappear off private property as they no longer have any benefit to the private landowners, who are prevented from maintaining a viable and productive conservation business. If the current situation continues, one will probably only find elephants in state parks and a small number of private game reserves in the future.

Pongola’s position

Pongola Game Reserve has been in operation for nearly 50 years. The PGR’s (namely the Karel Landman Trust’s) revenue streams come from various sources. These include accommodation, ecotourism activities as well as consumptive utilisation (editor’s note: ‘consumptive wildlife utilisation’ in the wildlife industry refers to hunting, harvesting for the commercial sale of meat, local consumption, and the capturing and selling of live wildlife). We are dependent on our wildlife business to survive financially.

We can’t afford to subsidise species with utilisation restrictions, especially if they also destroy habitats that other species depend on. Elephants are major habitat changers and, if not managed in balance with the other species in a reserve, may degrade that habitat. This is happening in many of the habitats where elephants are present.

It is hard to argue that elephant populations in South Africa are in crisis, as many try to. Most elephant populations in South Africa substantially exceed the carrying capacities of the properties on which they occur. This is directly due to the legislative management restriction imposed by the government. The only crisis is that there are far too many elephants and nowhere for them to go.

Elephants in Pongola — Elephants at the water’s edge in Pongola Game Reserve

In our case, Pongola Game Reserve was sold the vision of creating a transfrontier park (across South Africa and Eswatini) by the state. This has never materialised. We introduced elephants in 1997 as part of the transfrontier park vision. At the time, there were no restrictions placed on elephant management and they were managed in the same way as we manage all our other species, which is as it should be. Restrictions were only placed on their management in 2008 when the government issued National Norms and Standards for the Management of Elephants in South Africa. This was when our problems began.

Income through sustainable utilisation

Before detailing our challenges, it needs to be made clear that we own the elephants by definition of the law, and they are our assets. We carry 100% of their management costs. The government does not contribute financially to their management. Despite this fact, the state dictates how we are permitted to manage them. Our business is sustainable-utilisation based, and this is how we successfully manage all our other species, yet we are restricted on the management of our elephant.

Pongola Game Reserve cannot continue to run a business with the current unrealistic restrictions on the sustainable use of certain species. The associated red tape results in loss of potential income for the private wildlife industry. Landowners will resort to commercial farming due to their wildlife business becoming unviable – undoing the excellent progress made on land under conservation and reversing the increases made in wildlife numbers in South Africa.

Desperate times

One practical example of how this plays out is right on our doorstep, where one landowner, whose property previously formed part of the Pongola Game Reserve, changed his land use back to agriculture. This was due to the impracticalities associated with the excessive elephant numbers on the reserve and the financial implications. Once habitat for black rhinos, elephants and other wildlife, that area is now cleared of vegetation and planted with sugarcane.

Another example demonstrates the unmoving stance taken by the state. Pongola experienced a devastating drought between 2014 and 2020, which resulted in the reserve needing to cull a large number of zebra, blue wildebeest and impala to enable other species to have a better chance of survival. We also applied for the culling of 86 elephants as the population was already way above the reserve’s carrying capacity of 30 elephants. Our pleas were ignored with no sympathy or understanding for our situation.

Restrictions on elephant management

Several conditions need to be met before managers can be permitted to implement any lethal management solutions for elephants. While our previous management plan included approval for the hunting of a certain number of elephant bulls, the management plan for the next 10 years is currently under review. Until the plan is approved, we cannot hunt any bulls.

Among the conditions that need to be met before lethal management is approved, our most significant challenges are:

Range manipulation – provide proof that management is unable to expand the land available to the elephant:
There is only so much one can do to achieve “land expansion”, so this option is mainly unrealistic and is a temporary solution. All this does is delay the inevitable need to decrease numbers, as the population will become too large for an expanded property.

Translocation – provide proof that management is unable to find alternative properties to which excess elephants can be moved (involving capture and relocation):
The fact is that new properties to which elephants can be moved are scarce. For property owners with suitable habitats, many already have too many elephants themselves or don’t want to take elephants due to the current unrealistic management restrictions.

Contraception – implement contraception program on the females:
Contraception has no practical population management benefits. All it does is create an ageing population over a period of time. We do not believe that contraception is an ethical solution. Furthermore, it is a costly exercise.

The above conditions need to be met before one can revert to lethal management through culling and hunting. It takes years to reach this point, and in the time being, the elephant population continues to grow unchecked, with all the negative ramifications to the surrounding environment that go along with it. Properties need to monetise the population somehow to spend money on the population sustainably. For us, the only positive income balance to come from elephants is through controlled hunting.

While up until recently we were allowed to hunt bulls, we have not had access to these bulls for hunting. Elephants previously roamed the section of the Pongola Game Reserve northeast of the (N2) highway – within a total area of 8,497 ha in size (including Dubula and the PGRE property – see map below). During the drought when Pongolapoort Dam levels were low, and due to overpopulation, the elephants moved around the boundary fences at the dam onto the Royal Jozini Big 6 Private Estate in Eswatini. After that, a large portion of the population moved around the northern side of the dam back into South Africa onto the eastern shores of Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife’s Phongolo Nature Reserve. There is a standard game fence (with electric strands) between Dubula and the Phongolo Nature Reserve, but the low water levels enabled elephants to move to Phongolo.

While water levels have now risen, elephants can still, and do, cross on occasion. The elephants are still in Royal Jozini Big 6 Private Estate and Phongolo Nature Reserve, with the occasional movement of some elephants into Pongola Game Reserve. Neither Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife nor the Royal Jozini Big 6 Private Estate will permit any lethal management (in the form of hunting or culling) while the elephants are still on their properties. Due to the high numbers of elephant they will continue to occupy these new areas. Without culling and hunting, the elephant population will continue to reach high numbers.

Furthermore, the 2022 hunting and export quota for elephant, black rhino and leopard has been suspended, due to a court application by The Humane Society International – Africa against the Minister of Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment, for not following due process in the allocation of these quota. As such Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife will not be issuing any hunting or export permits for these species.

Pongola elephant management map — The property lines between Pongola Game Reserve, Phongolo Nature Reserve and Royal Jozini Big 6 Private Estate show how elephants were able to move between properties when water levels were low during times of drought.

Legislation states that, when culling, managers need to cull an entire herd at once (and not just a portion of the herd or selectively cull individuals over time). This brings challenges of its own. Practically speaking, how would one dispose of 85 carcasses simultaneously? In a country where poverty and hunger are all around us, you cannot waste a valuable protein source.

We should be permitted to manage our elephants the same way we do all our other species. The argument that elephants are more “special” than other species is not valid: all species should be managed under similar principles.

Due to all of the above, it is not practical, beneficial or economically viable for Pongola Game Reserve to continue maintaining elephants.

Our decision to remove elephants in the near future has resulted in the engagement and the attention of the National Department of Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment (DFFE) and Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife. Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife indicated that they are currently drafting a proposal (for the bigger picture and Pongola area) which is awaiting approval from their head office before being submitted to us for discussion. It became clear through our engagement that we are not unique regarding our concerns, as there are many other private properties currently in the same position. DFFE has undertaken to investigate improvements in this regard.

Our decision to remove elephants will stand unless the ‘bigger picture proposal’ being developed by Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife is beneficial to the goals of our elephant management. Similarly, if the new National Norms and Standards for the Management of Elephants in South Africa being drafted by the government are not beneficial to the management of elephant on private property and our goals of sustainable utilisation, then there is no point in keeping the elephant and a decision will need to made on how to achieve their removal. This will take some time to implement, as this on its own brings several logistical issues.

Rethinking the future of elephant management

The reality for the private wildlife industry and the business of conservation is that the adage of “if it pays, it stays” holds. The state will have to rethink current legislation if elephant populations are to remain on private properties and reserves in the future.

We in the private wildlife industry are professionals in what we do. Let us do what we do best to benefit wildlife in South Africa, which can thrive through sustainable use management, as we have proved in the past and continue to do.

Note: On 4 May 2022, Pongola Game Reserve received feedback from Minister of Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment, Barbara Creecy, commenting on Examvelo KZN Wildlife’s commitment to developing a joint management agreement with private sector stakeholders. The letter states there is a “need for innovative and balanced partnership arrangements between state protected areas and adjacent private wildlife areas.” These, Creecy states in the letter, “result in win-win sustainable arrangements, with strong conservation outcomes, and which stimulate the local economy through biodiversity-based enterprises.” The letter further reads, “reaching such agreements in Pongola can provide an important model for success, and I encourage all stakeholder [sic] to work collaboratively, with meaningful participation, to quickly craft the joint management plan [for elephants], and give momentum to economic growth of the area.”

Related reading

Do we have elephant problem? There are no simple answers. Read our report on the facts.

Is there a direct link between elephants and the ongoing loss of large trees? A recent study suggests elephants benefit ecosystems (in open systems) by improving plant diversity. Read more about this here.

Researchers suggest adapting conservaton strategies to the sentience of elephants. Read more here.

THIS WEEK

A lion grimaces as a dust storm sandblasts his face. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. Photographer of the Year entrant

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Volcanoes & gorillas + Luangwa lessons + post-pandemic Zim

Some 23 years ago, I learnt a lesson about context that defines me today.

Lizz and I had endured a particularly gruelling few years at work, so we packed the Landy and headed north for a 3-month sabbatical. Meandering south through the Luangwa Valley in Zambia after spending time in a bush camp on the Mwaleshi River in North Luangwa National Park, we had reached the Nsefu sector of South Luangwa NP. Earlier, we had been delayed for a few hours by a herd of browsing elephants surrounding us. I was concerned that we would not reach the town of Mfuwe before darkness descended. Seeing a dignified old man strolling his shamba (agricultural plot), I decided to ask his advice in case we needed to spend the night nearby.

After the usual pleasantries that so define discussions with rural African folk, I explained our situation. He provided the requested advice, and then, after a long pause, he politely questioned my state of mind at such a trivial roadblock to our plans. “Do you see these cans?” he asked, holding two flatted Coke cans. “These are all that stand between my family and starvation.” Every day and night, I must keep elephants and other animals away from our fields, or we will lose everything. If I see elephants, I run at them and bang the cans together to scare them away. I never know when they will arrive or whether I will succeed in keeping our food safe. For you, the cans mean whether your food is fresh or not. Either way, you are ok. For me, they are everything.”

Postscript: We made it to Mfuwe before nightfall. We gave the gent what remained of our tinned supplies. I still drive the same Landy 🙂

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

There is much to celebrate in the post-pandemic world: travel has opened up across Africa, and the AG tribe is making up for lost time by embarking on safari adventures. But the devastating socio-economic impacts of COVID-19 linger in communities dependent on tourism. In Zimbabwe, 1 in 3 people employed in the tourism industry lost their jobs due to the pandemic. Dianne Tipping-Wood travelled to Zim to meet some of the men and women who are picking up the pieces in the post-COVID reality. See our first story below.

This week, we shine a light on one of the leading gorilla trekking destinations in Africa: Volcanoes National Park. Visitors to this piece of paradise will also be blown away by the breathtaking scenery and astonishing biodiversity of this volcanic landscape.

In the past few weeks, we’ve also been looking into the science surrounding the hunting of large-tusked elephant bulls. Our in-depth look into the science of elephant population genetics is now available on our public website for easy access – see below.

Happy exploring Africa to you all!

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/surviving-in-post-pandemic-zimbabwe/
POST-PANDEMIC ZIM
As tourism slowly recovers in post-pandemic Zimbabwe, hunger still stalks the country. Many resort to the basics to survive the loss of income

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/volcanoes-national-park/
GORILLA HAVEN
Volcanoes National Park is a leading gorilla trekking destination in Africa. This volcanic landscape offers stunning scenery & biodiversity

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/elephant-bulls-breeding-and-trophy-hunting/
ELEPHANT HUNTING
Does the hunting of large-tusked bulls lead to the decline of tuskers & elephant population genetics? We examine the science

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Instead of linking you to some of our safari packages, today we show you how to find them on our app.

It’s easy: Login to our app, tap/click the ‘Travel with us’ tab, select ‘Packages’ and off you go. You can filter the packages by place and experience and even select only non-malaria packages. Once decided you can add that package to your wishlist.

Or, to plan your own safari, select ‘Lodges’ from the same tab and follow the same logic.

Both options enable you to see the prices in a variety of currencies. This is a new app feature, so we are still busy loading up our packages.

Safari njema!

Our Kenyan safari with AG

App subscriber Richard Rolfe says:
“My wife Anne and I go away every January to soak up some sun. As January 2022 approached, prospects looked doubtful as COVID restrictions were slow to lift. I sent a query to AG in November. I got a reply the next day, from Christian – who had led a trip I’d been on to Cameroon in 2010. During the booking process, we were fortunate (thanks to Christian pushing us to make decisions) to be in a position to hit the “Go” button & make firm bookings ahead of many others.

Having studied AG’s article on Samburu, we decided this should be part of the trip. With wild dogs being a key objective, Christian suggested Laikipia Wilderness Camp. We added beach time in Watamu, nearby Arabuko Sokoke Forest for endemic birds, then three days at Satao Camp in Tsavo East. Samburu had the best overall wildlife viewing and some unusual bushveld birds. All in all it was an exceptional safari!”

WATCH: Camera trap footage from Côte d’Ivoire’s Comoé National Park reveals chimpanzees making “tools” out of sticks, to capture water from trees during the dry season. The findings support research that suggests chimp behaviour is influenced by their direct environment. As these primates face a rapidly shrinking habitat, this research can contribute toward essential conservation efforts (02:04). Click here to watch

Volcanoes National Park

Sir Attenborough was, as always, spot-on in the narration of his encounter with the mountain gorillas of the Virunga Mountains. Shortly after the ad-libbed but apt summation of his emotional journey, a young gorilla called Poppy grew tired of exchanging glances and attempted to divest him of his shoes. The now-famous scene was filmed in Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda.

Today, Volcanoes National Park is renowned as one of the leading gorilla trekking destinations in Africa – a place where, against so many odds, the critically endangered mountain gorilla has flourished. And while the gorillas may be the stars, visitors are equally likely to find themselves blown away by the breathtaking scenery and astonishing biodiversity of this volcanic landscape.

Volcanoes National Park and the Greater Virunga Ecosystem

Tucked in Rwanda’s north-western corner on the borders of Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo, the 160km² (16,000 hectare) Volcanoes National Park protects the vital Rwandan portion of the Virunga Mountains. The Virunga range consists of eight major volcanoes, of which five are in Volcanoes National Park. With Uganda’s Mgahinga Gorilla National Park in the north and Virunga National Park in DRC to the west, Volcanoes National Park is part of the Greater Virunga Ecosystem. This trio of countries acts as the guardians of just over half of the world’s remaining mountain gorillas living on the forest-swathed slopes of the imposing volcanoes.

All five of the Virunga volcanoes on the Rwandan side have long since retired from spewing lava (though there are two active volcanoes in the range in neighbouring DRC), but their presence in the park is no less dramatic for their dormancy. Mounts Karisimbi, Bisoke (Visoke), Sabyinyo, Gahinga and Muhabura are the products of ferocious geological forces that shaped this section of the Albertine Rift. The resultant rich volcanic soils laid the necessary groundwork for the astonishing floral (and therefore faunal) lifeforms on display. In addition, scientists believe that much of the eastern Congo basin was an ice age refugia, which explains the unusually high number of species and levels of endemism. These refugia are geographic regions that escaped the worst of the glacial conditions, allowing for the survival of plant and animal species.

Naturally, the visual impact of the jagged mountains looming like teeth is also somewhat breathtaking, though this can be at least in part attributed to the altitude. The park’s highest point is the peak of Mount Karisimbi (4,500 metres), and most of the park lies at over 2,000 metres above sea level – not high enough to cause altitude sickness but something that certainly takes some getting used to for unacclimatised visitors.

The significant altitudinal range within the park has also contributed to considerable variation in vegetation types, changing from tropical and bamboo forest types at lower altitudes to montane forests and Afroalpine shrublands at the highest points. Thickets, grasslands, marshes, and small lakes extend between each volcano. This medley of geological and climatic factors has conferred significant biodiversity and conservation importance to Volcanoes National Park. Of course, the park’s gorilla residents (and the work of dedicated primatologists) first put it on the safari map.

The rich volcanic soils of the Rwandan Virunga volcanoes, protected in Volcanoes National Park, set the groundwork for diverse and unique floral and faunal lifeforms, including the tropical and bamboo forests that are home to the famous gorillas and golden monkeys, drawing tourists from across the globe

Gorillas in water droplets suspended in the atmosphere

Close encounters with gorillas like the one experienced by Sir Attenborough all those years ago are no longer permitted. Visitors are obliged to keep their distance and attempt to move away from the gorillas if approached. This is an important measure taken to ensure the safety and health of the gorillas. Nevertheless, those who go gorilla trekking in Volcanoes National Park will find their encounters meet or, more frequently, exceed expectations. The strain of an early start and arduous hike (that may go on for hours along slippery, twisting mud paths through stinging nettles) rapidly evaporates when one looks into the unfathomable brown eyes of one of our closest relatives. Though few have the eloquence of David Attenborough to describe the experience, adjectives like “spiritual”, “profound”, “soul-stirring”, “humbling”, and “magical” are thrown about like confetti by those able to find them. Others find that words simply fail them.

Twelve gorilla families in Volcanoes National Park are habituated for tourism (other troops are habituated solely for research purposes). These are the Susa, Igisha, Karisimbi, Sabyinyo, Amahoro, Agashya, Kwitonda, Umubano, Hirwa, Bwenge, Ugyenda and Muhoza families. Only six tracking permits are issued per group per day, so time spent with the gorillas is incredibly intimate. Furthermore, 10% of the permit prices are fed back into surrounding communities to develop infrastructure and improve livelihoods. This culture of sustainable tourism is rapidly becoming a proud (and successful) tradition of Rwandan conservation.

For the true gorilla devotee, it is well worth visiting Kwita Izina – an annual naming ceremony for newborn gorillas modelled off a Rwandan tradition of naming children. Conservation champions are honoured with the opportunity to bestow a name upon one of the tiny bundles of primate joy, every one of which is of vital importance to the future survival of the species. Since 2005, 328 gorillas have been named in this way, and the ceremony includes live music, dancing and, of course, essential conservation talks. A well-timed visit allows additional opportunities to speak to gorilla conservationists and park staff. The ceremony usually takes place in September to coincide with World Gorilla Day.

What Dian Fossey would have thought of this ceremony will forever remain a mystery. However, no discussion of the gorillas of Volcanoes National Park would be complete without mention of the Karisoke Research Centre and her work. Though Fossey was a controversial figure, her devotion to her gorilla subjects was absolute, and she eventually gave her life to the fight for their conservation. The abandoned Karisoke Research Centre and Fossey’s final resting place remain popular attractions, though they are only accessible on foot after a relatively strenuous 90-minute hike.

Creatures in the clouds

As remarkable as they are, visiting Volcanoes National Park is not just about the gorillas. In terms of the primates, few people realise that the park is also home to troops of habituated golden monkeys. These charismatic monkeys are almost as scarce as their gorilla cousins and are only found around the Virunga region. With their handsome facial mane, auburn capes of fur, and perpetually surprised expressions, the golden monkeys are the perfect photographic subjects, and their antics are endlessly entertaining.

The forest is also home to forest elephants. However, there are probably no more than 50 individuals wandering the park, and they are generally skittish, unwelcome as they are in the surrounding human villages. The best chance of encountering one is on the hike to the old Karisoke Research Centre. Buffaloes occasionally venture into the forests, and smaller ungulates like bushpigs, giant forest hogs, black-fronted duikers, and bushbucks flourish in the dense vegetation.

Like Nyungwe National Park in southern Rwanda, Volcanoes National Park offers some of the best birding in East Africa. High levels of endemism and the challenges of forest birding make this one of the most electrifying places to search for the feathered specials that keep eager birders awake at night. This bird-watching haven has over 200 different recorded species, including 17 Albertine Rift endemics. At the top of Mount Bisoke (more on that later), scarlet-tufted sunbirds flit from lobelia to lobelia, while further down, Shelley’s crimsonwings do their utmost to evade the avid attentions of teamAG (and pretty much everyone else). Bright scarlet flashes draw the eye to African pittas and Rwenzori turacos, and handsome francolins make up for their comparatively drab appearance with an impressively loud voice (a family trait). Rwenzori double-collared sunbirds, African green broadbills, Rwenzori batises… the list goes on. Even novice (or dare we say disinterested?) bird watchers will find the excitement infectious.

For those wanting to learn more about the bird and mammal offerings in Rwanda, Christian Boix’s (Africa Geographic travel director and one of Africa’s top birding guides) book Wild Rwanda is the region’s most authoritative “where to find” birds and mammals guide. Its Volcanoes National Park section will be an invaluable tool to set you on the right track to target your most coveted Albertine Rift endemics and learn about this volcanic gem.

Pathways through the mist

For those whose legs have forgiven them their trespasses (like a few hours chasing gorillas up a mountain), Volcanoes National Park is a hiker’s paradise. The truly brave can opt for an overnight route to the top of Mount Karisimbi, the highest point in the park. The name ‘Karisimbi’ translates as ‘white shell’ – so-called due to the white cap of cloud that often covers the summit. Equally challenging is the hike to the top of Mount Muhavura to look out across the twin lakes of Burera and Ruhondo (separated by an ancient lava flow). Many visitors choose to explore the almost alien-like Afroalpine vegetation and crater lake at the top of Mount Bisoke (often, but not always, in search of the red-tufted sunbird).
These hikes depend on a certain level of physical fitness, must be booked in advance, and are always conducted in the company of a park-provided guide.

Explore & stay

Want to plan your Volcanoes safari? Scroll down to the end of this story to research and get in touch with our travel team to start the discussion.

The only visitors allowed in the park overnight are those that have booked multiple-day hiking excursions. However, there are many accommodation options ranging from budget hotels to ultra-luxurious lodges on the park’s periphery. The park is open year-round, though the “best time” to visit is from June until September – the long dry season. Though the highest rainfall levels occur from March to May and again in October and November, this is an equatorial region, and rain is possible at any time. And, naturally, the famous mists do more than just hide the gorillas. Consequently, it is essential to waterproof all electronics and photographic equipment, and a good pair of non-slip, waterproof walking boots are vital.
The region’s magic doesn’t end at the park boundaries, and those with an extra day or two can opt to learn more about ancient Rwanda culture at Buhanga Eco-Park. Here the kings of old undertook a series of kingship rituals before being crowned in the park’s caves. Cave systems are extensive around Volcanoes National Park, and since it was first opened in 2014, the 2km trail through the 60-million-year-old Musanze Cave has become increasingly popular.

In Rwanda –the “Land of a Thousand Hills” – the steep, forested slopes of the five in Volcanoes National Park are indisputably among the country’s most unique offerings.

Resources

Combine a visit to Volcanoes National Park with Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda or Virunga National Park in the DRC to complete the biodiversity experience.
Check out our authoritative guide to the different species and subspecies, to help you in getting to know the gorillas.
Learn more about The Mountain Gorilla: Gentle Giants of the Forests.

Surviving in post-pandemic Zimbabwe

Rose Tshuma is fishing from the eastern bank of the Zambezi River, just in front of the Sidinda Fishing Camp in Zimbabwe, where she works as a housekeeper. “Look across at that crocodile. We’re all hungry,” she says as her eyes follow the stealthy hunter patrolling the opposite shore. The 52-year-old has a wry sense of humour and a keen awareness of the realities of rural life in this part of Zimbabwe. She knows from experience that hunger is no joke.

About eighty kilometres upstream, the mighty Zambezi River plunges more than one hundred meters down the famous Mosi-Oa-Tunya (The Smoke that Thunders), the Lozi name for Victoria Falls, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It pushes on through constricting gorges offering some of the world’s best white-water rafting to this calmer stretch of river: prime game fishing territory for species like feisty tigerfish and vundu, the largest freshwater species in southern Africa. The river then winds its way towards Kariba Dam, Mozambique, and the Indian Ocean.

When tourism suffers

Tourism has always been vital to Zimbabwe’s economy, and in 2019, it contributed a total of 5.8% to the country’s GDP and 8.6% of the total employment. The town of Victoria Falls is an international tourism hub surrounded by national parks and game management areas, including Zambezi National Park and the vast Hwange National Park.

But as Tshuma notes, even here, things are hard. So, working with local partners, the African Nature-Based Tourism Platform gathered data on the effects of the pandemic on tourism businesses in 11 African countries, including Zimbabwe, to identify the hardest-hit communities and enterprises and their most pressing needs. The platform was launched in April 2021 with $1.9 million from the Global Environment Facility (GEF) and is working with local partners in 11 countries, including Zimbabwe, to mobilise at least US$15 million to benefit the most vulnerable.

The eighty enterprises surveyed in Zimbabwe indicated almost 1 in 3 people employed in the tourism value chain had lost their job due to the pandemic. Tshuma’s colleague, tracker Sylvester Ndlovu, has been out of work for nearly two years, while others are on reduced pay as tourism businesses in the area haven’t been able to pay their employees a full salary, given the lack of bookings. Ndlovu sold some of his goats for about US$30 each and used the remaining herd for meat and milk. Others have sold hard-earned vehicles and assets to put food on the table.

Surviving in post-pandemic Zimbabwe — Rose Tshuma with a chessa she caught; portrait of Rose; Rose fishing from the eastern bank of the Zambezi River near Sidinda Fishing Camp

As in Zimbabwe, tourism workers all around southern Africa are facing similar challenges, as COVID-19-related bans have strangled international travel, leaving tourism-reliant communities searching for new opportunities. And without the salaries, service fees, tips, and gratuities that supplement rural tourism-dependent livelihoods, the hardest hit people are harvesting wild fruits or snaring animals to survive.

As one of few still employed in the sector, Tshuma will get a modest salary and rations like maize meal, rice, oil, and salt at the end of the month, plus the fish she catches. “I know what it’s like to live off wild fruits,” she says, pointing to the hard, fibrous ilala palm nuts that grow close to the river. “I have eaten those in drought years.” She anticipates challenging months ahead, as many villages in Zimbabwe’s Hwange District already rely on food aid from The World Food Programme.

In 2020 The Zimbabwe Vulnerability Assessment Committee (ZimVAC) estimated that 7.7 million Zimbabweans (5.5 million in rural areas) would experience food insecurity at the peak of the lean season, exacerbated by drought, economic uncertainty, and the COVID-19 pandemic. 2022 doesn’t look much better. A prolonged dry spell followed the early rains, and showers in March and April have come too late for the wilting crops in nearby fields.

Sharing space and resources

The storms have also turned the river brown overnight, and Tshuma isn’t optimistic about her chances today, as the local fish she likes to catch to eat – bream and chessa – favour clear water. When a herd of buffalo comes down to drink late afternoon, she reels in one last time. There are no guests in camp, but she still has chores. The property needs to be maintained for when travel resumes. “I am optimistic people will come back. We must survive until then,” she says.

Without tourism-related jobs, income, and meat from hunting, conservation isn’t an easy sell to villagers living in this important wildlife corridor in the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area.

The web of interdependence between people and wildlife can be as muddy as the river after the rain. Years of drought, overgrazing, livestock diseases, and human-wildlife conflict have put pressure on natural resources in an area that includes Hwange National Park, Zambezi National Park, Victoria Falls National Park, and dozens of lesser-known but ecologically important areas where people and animals live together.

Sharing space and resources like freshwater often leads to conflict between people, crocodiles, elephants, baboons, leopards and hyenas, which raid fields and kill livestock. Safari hunting, fishing, and photographic tourism are an integral part of the economic model for these areas. These income streams make losses of crops and livestock easier for communities to bear.

“These communities find themselves very desperate,” says Charles Jonga, CEO of the Community Areas Management Programme for Indigenous Resources (CAMPFIRE), Zimbabwe’s community-based natural resource management forum administered through Zimbabwe’s rural district councils. They are the African Nature-Based Tourism Platform’s country partner for Zimbabwe. Designed to create an economic value from wildlife resources for people living with wildlife “and suffering the associated opportunity costs,” the organisation has had its ups and downs. Navigating the vagaries of Zimbabwe’s land reform process and associated political uncertainties since its inception in the 1980s, people report mixed feelings about its impact in recent years. And without tourism revenues, the last two years have been some of its most challenging, says Jonga.

Progress postponed

The lodge Tshuma works for is in a conservancy formed in 2018 through CAMPFIRE, with the help of a local safari operator, supported by the Global Environment Facility and the World Bank, and coordinated by WWF Zimbabwe. They had aimed to help address food security issues in the area, but “the pandemic has halted everything,” says conservancy manager Lindon Stanton. Projects, including solar-powered irrigation and livestock breeding programs, were postponed due to a lack of tourism-related income.

The business plan developed with CAMPFIRE and the community showed how the villagers would benefit from future live animal sales and meat production from legal wildlife harvesting; the conservancy would employ game scouts and support various small enterprises. Instead, they are barely covering costs and are likely to have to procure feed for their recently established population of buffalo [previously illegally hunted out of the area], as the expansion of the conservancy to 20,000 hectares is on hold until more funding comes through. Still, Stanton suggests, they’re doing their best with the resources they have to protect the wildlife that they hope will one day revitalise rural economies.

“We clear dozens of illegal snares [from the conservancy] and fishing nets from the river,” says conservancy game scout Emmanuel Mapeta. He believes people are mainly poaching small game because they are “trying to survive.”

There is still hope that promised jobs and projects will materialise, as “the only way to take the pressure off natural resources is to create the food security and job opportunities for people,” says Stanton. But he also repeats the refrain from everyone in the tourism supply chain: “if the last two years have taught us anything, it’s that we can’t rely on one thing. We must all do something else.”

In rural areas, though, there aren’t many options. “2020 introduced a far worse scenario [than we have faced before] when balancing the needs for conservation and the expectations of communities,” said Jonga. Speaking of CAMPFIRE’s aims, he says, “we’re looking at initiatives within this and other communities that have the potential to create incomes linked to markets. This hasn’t been sufficiently pursued because we need extra resources to get these projects going. Given the lack of tourism, the gestation period for these projects becomes too long. They cannot evolve independently from the very minimal income currently being generated.”

Hunger looming

In Zimbabwe, nearly every survey respondent reiterated the dire need for financial assistance for staff salaries, anti-poaching units, and infrastructure rehabilitation for enterprises and communities. The most urgently requested support was equipment, from uniforms for game scouts to solar boreholes and irrigation infrastructure to improve water access. This information has been captured in a summary report, shared publicly via the platform. The African Nature Based Tourism platform’s next step is to match resilience-building activities with funding options. In some cases, funders may want to use the platform’s data; in other cases, the platform team might work from beginning to end with beneficiaries to develop proposals and get them funded.

In Sidinda, with hunger looming, people focus on surviving the dry season, meaning irrigation schemes for crops are top of mind for many. According to the United Nations, agricultural activities provide food and income for 60-70% of the population of Zimbabwe (UN, 2021), making it ideal as a business that complements tourism. However, most African Nature-Based Tourism Platform surveyed enterprises are found in Zimbabwe’s arid and semi-arid regions and need irrigation to grow crops successfully. Despite one of Africa’s mightiest rivers running through its heart, the Sidinda area is dry for months of the year, even when the rains are good.

A few kilometres from the conservancy gate, the Shoko family lives adjacent to a shared field. A borehole sunk by the conservancy with a solar-powered pump briefly changed their lives. Villagers were able to grow vegetables like butternut, tomatoes, and onions. Some produce was sold to a business in Victoria Falls that processed sun-dried tomatoes, some were sold in the community to supplement diets, some were sold to the fishing lodge to feed guests, and some were consumed directly by the growers.

The pump broke, though, and the community is desperate to fix it, but neither they nor the conservancy has the money. Meanwhile, the field is overgrown, and the crops wilted. “We’ve failed to grow anything this season because there is no water. We are worried about food,” says Jeremiah Shoko, the 73-year-old pump keeper. He has some goats and a few chickens, which he can sell, but “we’re looking for projects to help us get money to feed our babies.”

Unlike the Shokos, farming cousins Mungala Ncube (49) and Makani Tshuma (57) have had a good growing season. They planted early and swapped drought-sensitive maize for more resilient sorghum and millet. Their husbands worked in the Zimbabwe tourism industry, and their crops represented crucial income for the last two years, but elephants have just raided one of their fields.

They are philosophical about the incident – “it could have been worse” – but believe that training and employing wildlife scouts from and in the community would help mitigate human-wildlife conflict and create much-needed jobs. “Next, we need money to grind what we have harvested,” said Ncube, adding that she hopes they will have enough to feed themselves and their families, plus a small surplus of nine or ten buckets to sell for school fees. They get US$5 for a twenty kilograms bucket of millet or sorghum. School fees cost US$45 per year per child.

“We need to promote rural development to make communities self-dependent,” says Hwange Rural District Council CEO Phindile Ncube. He says having strategies that provide some resilience, like nature-compatible activities that can be sustainably managed locally, is critical to people’s wellbeing. And while currently, COVID-19 is a huge stressor on an already stressed system, calamities can come in the guise of climate change, another pandemic, or political instability.

Building from the ground up

Small projects can have a significant impact in areas like this one in Zimbabwe, which is why the African Nature-Based Tourism Platform is looking for funding to help communities and small and medium enterprises recover from the pandemic and become more resilient to future shocks and stressors, says WWF’s Nikhil Advani, the project manager. The idea is not to replace tourism in Zimbabwe but to complement it because despite the hardships so many are facing, people are still optimistic about its potential.

“There have been some new investments in tourism, even during the pandemic, especially in and around Victoria Falls,” notes Jonga. Just upstream from the Victoria Falls, in the Zambezi National Park, one such new development, Mpala Jena Zambezi River Camp, opened in December 2021. Head guide Blessed Mpofu is from Chisuma, fifteen kilometres below the falls, on the road to Sidinda. Camp Manager at Mpala Jena Rabbon Nyoni was raised in Victoria Falls, where many of his childhood role models worked in the safari industry. They explained how the money they earn at the lodge filters through to the villages where they grew up.

During the worst months of the pandemic, Mpofu was on half-pay and had to sell his Landcruiser to meet his financial obligations to his family. “From a rural boy, I had gotten somewhere in my life, so this was a huge step back. My dream has always been to start a guide school, and I’ve had to put that on hold. But I used the money from the sale of my Landcruiser to drill a borehole in Chisuma and start doing some farming,” he explains. He’s also gone ahead with a business plan and getting permission from the Hwange Rural District Council for his guide school. Like Tshuma, he has faith in better days to come. Until then, their cash flow is as vital a lifeline as the river itself.

Resources

Find out what you can do to help build back the tourism industry after COVID-19.

Read about the negative impact COVID-19 has had on conservation in Africa.

THIS WEEK

Can you see what safari client Angela Key is looking at? Scroll down to find out.

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Science & tusker hunting + sleep under stars + spotting shoebills

This is a true story – that always earns me a few wry smiles in the telling. Years ago I was with a group of American safari clients on game drive, and one of them asked me where I am from. “I am African,” I replied. “No,” she said, “where are you originally from?” “I am African, born and bred,” I repeated, and they looked confused. So I asked them a question: “If I was to move to America and become a citizen, would you refer to me as African-American?” There was a thoughtful silence before the smiles broke out.

What’s this got to do with safari & conservation? Everything, because if we are to keep Africa’s biodiversity safe from abusive exploitation we need to step away from the social constructs that divide us and embrace our differences. teamAFRICA!

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Does the hunting of large-tusked elephant bulls lead to the decline of tuskers, and what is the impact on elephant population genetics? Since we released the news that two of Africa’s largest elephants were trophy hunted in Botswana, the debate over the hunting of Africa’s tuskers has been flowing in the stories section of our app (check out the comments on the original story, and the debate on our retrospective of the matter). In our first story below we take a deep look into the science surrounding the matter, and the effects of hunting older elephant bulls. This story is available exclusively on our app for the next few days. Get the app to view – it’s free.

On a brighter and lighter note: who needs 5 stars when you can have a gazillion? Could you imagine anything better than spending a night under the African sky, stargazing while tucked into a warm and luxurious bed? We’ve put our heads together to find the continent’s best destinations for sleeping out under the stars. You can find unbeatable prices on these destinations and more by checking out our collection of lodges. See our second story below.

Happy indulging in Africa to you all!

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

The vast majority of those reading this are right-handed because that describes approximately 90% of the human population. There is an astonishing amount of research into human “handedness” and its relationship with everything from sports to health.

But did you know that elephants also favour their left or right side? In their case, however, it’s called “tuskedness“. Almost all elephants (>95%) favour one or the other tusk, with an almost even split between right and left tuskedness. The dominant tusk is used more frequently and thus wears down more than its subordinate. There is also evidence that they have a preference for rightward or leftward use of their trunks, though it is still not yet known how this relates to tusk use.

Behavioural lateralisation (the asymmetrical expression of cognitive functions) is observed across multiple animal families and makes for fascinating reading for those looking to fall down a rabbit hole. (After reading our stories, of course.)

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/elephant-bulls-breeding-and-trophy-hunting/
ELEPHANT BULLS & HUNTING
Does the hunting of large-tusked bulls lead to the decline of tuskers & elephant population genetics? We examine the science

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/sleep-out-under-the-stars/
SLEEP OUT UNDER THE STARS
Stargazing under African skies from a comfortable bed will add magic to any safari. Here are our top spots for sleeping out under the stars

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

This Big 5 safari in the malaria-free Madikwe Game Reserve is excellent value for money. Madikwe is known for sightings of African wild dog (painted wolf), cheetah and brown hyena. And for twitchers, there are 400 migrant and resident bird species.

Tanzania’s Serengeti hosts the wildebeest migration – the greatest show on Earth – for the entire year as the herds move clockwise (more or less) around the vast Mara/Serengeti ecosystem. So whether you want to experience the drama of the Mara River crossings in the north or the predator action during the calving season in the south, there is a safari for you. We can tailor this safari to your budget and preferred travel time.

Searching for shoebills with AG

App subscriber Angela Key travelled to Uganda with AG. ? Navigating Mabamba Swamp with expert bird guide Harriet Kemigisha, Angela got up close with a shoebill, and was finally able to photograph the dinosaur bird in person. Check out Nkima Forest Lodge, within walking distance of Mabamba Swamp for excellent rates – and you could soon be in Angela’s shoes ?

WATCH: Why is this spot in the Congo Basin attracting so much attention? Scientists have discovered a massive peatland in the area – the most extensive tropical peatland on earth, holding 20 times as much carbon as the USA releases from burning fossil fuels in a year. See why conservationists are seeking protection for this area (06:34). Click here to watch

Elephant bulls – breeding and trophy hunting

Trophy hunting is a controversial and multifaceted subject. One aspect of this debate concerns the targeting of elephant bulls with large tusks in hunting, and whether or not this is an acceptable loss to elephant population genetics. With large-tusked elephants in decline, what does the science say on the subject?

Proponents of the trophy hunting of these elephant bulls generally either argue that the individuals selected are at an age where they have already had time to contribute to the gene pool or are no longer reproducing. Those against the practice argue that hunting these “genetically gifted” elephants amounts to the “surgical removal of Africa’s remaining large-tusked elephants”.

Summary

Populations across Africa may differ in terms of the effect of ageing on reproductive potential. Extrapolations from one area may not apply with absolute certainty to another.
Bull elephants exhibit indeterminate growth, and their tusk growth rate increases exponentially throughout their lifetime.
Bulls can and do sire offspring from around 25 years of age, but their reproductive success increases until they reach a peak roughly between 45 and 49 years of age.
On average, their reproductive success decreases slightly from the age of 50 to 54 and more significantly from 55 to 61 years of age.
Individuals have been recorded in musth (suggesting they can reproduce) at the age of 63.
Senescence may result in breeding cessation when a bull can no longer maintain the necessary physical condition to compete and mate – the age when this occurs is likely to be highly variable.
Factors other than age play a role in reproductive success, including the timing of musth cycles.
Given the difficulty of accurately ageing an elephant by sight and their capacity for reproduction into old age, the margin for error is relatively narrow.
We do not fully understand the genetic mechanisms of tusk size, which impact its heritability. This will play a role in determining whether a large-tusked elephant can be considered to have contributed “sufficiently” to elephant genetics before his death.

This article focuses on summarising the available science on growth, tusk size and breeding as a function of age in adult male African savannah elephants. However, at the outset, it is essential to clarify that there will always be individual physiological differences within any population. The ageing process (and its effects on reproductive potential) will never be the same for two individual male elephants. This is also true of populations of elephants living in different parts of the continent, exposed to various environmental factors and, most importantly, consuming slightly different diets.

How do elephants age?

Elephants feed almost constantly throughout the day to meet the metabolic requirements needed to sustain their massive frames. Elephants are equipped with four enormous molars (two on the top jaw and two on the bottom) that wear down due to continuous chewing. These molars are replaced five times during their lifetime (equating to six sets of teeth). When the final set wears down entirely, the elephant can no longer chew properly and will eventually die of malnutrition or related complications.

Bull elephants have a maximum life expectancy of around 60-65 years, and they continue to grow throughout their lives (indiscriminate growth). However, experts estimate that only around half of all male elephants survive to peak competitive age, and relatively few (approximately 10%) live longer than around 50 years old (Moss 2001, Poole et al. 2013).

Tusk growth in African savannah elephants (Loxodonta africana) is sexually dimorphic, with the tusks of the males growing thicker and longer than those of the females. Research suggests that not only do these tusks grow throughout the elephant’s life, but the growth pattern appears to be exponential rather than linear. In other words, their tusks grow at an accelerating rate as they get older – particularly in terms of increasing mass and circumference (Spinage 1994, White and Hall-Martin 2014).

Longevity, indeterminate growth, and increasing tusk size point towards sexual competition favouring larger and older male elephants. As dominance between bulls is determined by body size (Poole 1989b), the natural conclusion is that older elephants will have increased mating success, borne out by the available research.

Musth and the reproductive lifespan of a bull elephant

Bulls reach sexual maturity (are physically capable of mating and producing offspring) at around the age of 15, but under natural conditions, it may be several years before they can secure the opportunity to mate. Around the age of 25 to 30 years, male elephants start entering into musth cycles characterised by a substantial increase in testosterone concentrations and several behavioural, physiological and physical changes.

The importance of musth in elephants cannot be understated. Males in musth are more aggressive towards competitors, engage in mate guarding and reduce foraging time to prioritise the search for oestrus females (Rasmussen et al. 2008, Taylor et al. 2019). Females receptive to mating (in oestrus) also show a preference for musth bulls (Poole 1989). However, this does not mean that elephant bulls not in musth do not sire offspring. Opportunistic mating does occur, and non-musth bulls are responsible for a constant, low percentage of the paternity of calves (Hollister-Smith 2007, Rasmussen 2008). However, musth bulls will dominate mating opportunities, even those smaller than non-musth competitors and most conceptions will result from a bull in musth (Hollister-Smith 2007, Poole et al. 2013). When two musth bulls compete for access to females, body size generally determines dominance – tusk size does not seem to play a role (Poole 1989b). This suggests that large-tusked elephants are no more likely to be successful in sexual competition than a counterpart of similar age.

Thus, elephant bulls over the age of 30 rely on musth as their primary reproductive strategy. Older bulls with longer musth cycles will inevitably have more mating opportunities than younger individuals. Research indicates that the “median duration of musth increases from two days for males aged 16–25 years, to 13 days for males aged 26–35 years, to 52 days for males aged 36–40 years, to 69 days for males aged 41–45, to 81 days for males aged 46–50 years, and then declines again to 54 days for males aged 51–60 years of age” (Rasmussen 2008, Poole et al. 2013). Males over the age of 35 are generally only in musth once a year (Poole 2013). Elephant bulls up to 63 years old have been observed exhibiting musth, suggesting that for some individuals, at least, almost lifelong reproduction is possible.

To summarise: “The longer a male survives and the older he becomes, the more ‘successful’ he has the opportunity to be. Thus, a strong relationship exists between the number of years that a male has been seen to be in musth and the total number of conceptions that occurred during his musth periods” (Poole 2013).

Elephant bulls, breeding and trophy hunting — An elephant bull in musth. Bulls over the age of 30 rely on musth as their primary reproductive strategy

Peaks, declines, and the contribution of younger males

In keeping with the above conclusion, research from Amboseli shows increasing reproductive success with increasing age (Hollister-Smith 2007). Genetic samples were taken from 89 adult male elephants and 279 calves and their mothers. Their analysis shows a gradual increase in reproductive success (measured by calves sired) from around 30 to a peak from 45 and 53 and then decline to around the same level of a male in his early 40s. The oldest elephant that sired a calf was 59 years old, and four males sired 14 calves between them in their 50s. The three oldest males (aged 48, 53 and 58) were responsible for 30% of the paternity in question.

In the study, males in their mid-20s sired calves, but this was an uncommon occurrence. However, males under the age of 35 fathered 29% of the calves. So, while males do produce more offspring in their later years, they have likely contributed to the genetics of a population before that. However, whether this contribution is sufficient to ensure the continuity of the large-tusked phenotype is scientifically uncertain and depends at least in part on the heredity of the trait (more on this below).

How old is that elephant?

Outside of known and extensively studied individuals, the most accurate way to age an elephant is to examine the condition of its molars. Naturally, this is difficult in the field and ageing an elephant by sight (particularly on foot) is inherently challenging. Experts rely on several physical features, including body condition (very old elephants have a gaunt appearance), posture and head shape.
A recent study from Kenya (Taylor et al. 2019) emphasised the importance of the effects of musth on elephant energy expenditure. Elephants in musth were found to walk faster and further than those not in an active reproductive state. This results in decreased feeding time, and in older bulls that maintain these musth cycles for months, the increased energy expenditure manifests as a significant loss of body condition (Poole 1989). As a result, when hunting an elephant, hunters could mistake a bull in musth for an older individual during a hunt.

Ageing an elephant by looking at the tusk size is also considered by experts to be problematic due to the considerable variation within individuals (Whyte and Hall-Martin 2014). While it is safe to assume that an elephant sporting large tusks is likely to be an older individual, whether or not they are within the “prime breeding” age bracket of between 45-49 is difficult to determine. Individual subjects of long-term studies whose ages are known, such as well-known tuskers Tim, Tolstoy and Satao (from Kenya) and Isilo (from South Africa), had substantial tusks well before their 50s. Given that tusk growth increases as the elephant ages, hunting young elephants before they exhibit signs of being a “tusker” may also result in the loss of large-tusk genetics.

Heritability – the next big question?

It is apparent that tusk size is a heritable trait, but the extent of this heritability and its genetic basis are still not understood and likely to be complex. Recent genetic research on the elephants of Gorongosa identified some of the genes involved in tusk growth, including one linked to the X chromosome and one autosomal chromosome (Campbell-Staton et al., 2021). This research was based on exploring the phenomenon of tuskless elephants, and tusk size is probably determined by the effects of additional genes (and likely environmental factors). The dominant or recessive nature of the alleles (a variant form of a gene) will also affect physical manifestation of this trait.

The significance of this goes to the heart of the argument about whether or not large-tusked elephants killed over the age of fifty have contributed “sufficiently” to the genetics of a herd to preserve the large-tusk phenotype. Simply put, the more genes involved in producing large tusks, the smaller the chances of passing them along during one breeding event. Conversely, the more mating opportunities, the higher the chances of securing the future of large-tusk genetics in one or more offspring. (Of course, a corollary to this is that bulls with small tusks could still carry some alleles related to large tusk growth.)

Final thoughts

The vast majority of the available research on the reproductive lives of male savannah elephants comes from long-term research conducted in Kenya, in the greater Amboseli ecosystem in particular. Exactly how this applies to elephant populations in other ecosystems is a matter for further study.

However, it is clear from existing research that claims of elephants over the age of 50 being “past their prime” are demonstrably false. These animals are still capable of mating and producing calves with greater success than when they were in their 20s and 30s. Furthermore, hunting a bull elephant between the ages of 45 and 49 under the mistaken impression that he was older will result in the loss of his most reproductively successful years. The margin for error here is a narrow one and emphasises the need for caution in aging prospective trophy bulls.

The significance of an elephant’s prior contribution to the tusk sizes of future elephant generations depends at least in part on the genetic basis of tusk size – a factor that has not yet been scientifically clarified. Without this knowledge, it is difficult to know with any certainty whether or not a trophy hunted bull has been given “sufficient” opportunity to pass on his large-tusked legacy before he is killed. Statistically, the more conceptions he contributes to, the greater the chance of genetic perpetuation. Thus the ethical question at hand becomes one of risk – are we willing to take that chance with large-tusked elephants?

Further reading

Researchers say the large-tusked elephant is in decline, and should be protected from trophy hunting. Read more here.

Elephant hunting in Botswana: read about the granting of elephant hunting licences in the country here.

References

* Some references are available through a paywall

Campbell-Staton, S., Arnold, B.J., Gonçalves, D., Granli, P., Poole, J., Long R.A., Pringle, R.M., Ivory poaching and the rapid evolution of tusklessness in the African elephant, Science, (2021), 374:6566, 483-487
Henley, M.D., Aging elephants – a practical guide. (2012) Unpublished report
Hollister-Smith J. A., Poole J. H., Archie E. A., Vance E. A., Georgiadis N. J., Moss C. J., Alberts S. C., Age, musth and paternity success in wild male African elephants, Loxodonta africana, Animal Behaviour,74:2 (2007), 287-296
Moss C.J., The demography of an African elephant (Loxodonta africana) population in Amboseli, Kenya, Journal of Zoology, 255 (2001), 145-156
Poole J. H., Announcing intent: the aggressive state of musth in African elephants, Animal Behaviour, 37 (1989a), 140-152
Poole J. H., Mate guarding, reproductive success and female choice in African elephants, Animal Behaviour, 37 (1989b), 842-849
Poole J. H., Lee, P. C. & Moss, C. (2013) Longevity, competition and musth: a long-term perspective on male reproduction. Amboseli Elephants: a Long-term Perspective on a Long-lived Mammal (Ed. by C. Moss & H. Croze). Chicago: University of Chicago Press
Rasmussen H.B., Okello J.B.A., Wittemyer G., Siegismund H.R., Arctander P., Vollrath F., Douglas-Hamilton I., Age- and tactic-related paternity success in male African elephants, Behavioral Ecology, (2007) 19:1, 9-15
Spinage, C.A., 1994. Elephants. T & A D Poyser, London
Taylor, L.A., Vollrath, F., Lambert, B., Lunn, D., Douglas-Hamilton, I., Wittemyer, G., Movement reveals reproductive tactics in male elephants, Journal of Animal Ecology, (2020) 89:1, 57-67
Whyte, I.J. and Hall-Martin, A.J. “Growth characteristics of tusks of elephants in Kruger National Park.” Pachyderm 59 (2018): 31-40.

Sleep out under the stars

There is little in the world that can match the atmosphere of the African wilderness at night. As the dark comes alive with the sound of nocturnal stirrings and the blaze of the Milky Way burns its way across the sky, there is nothing quite like spending a night in the open, stargazing. Of course, for some, the stony ground and clinging sleeping bag are part of the experience, but, for the rest, luxury sleepout options abound.

These days, most lodges are equipped with every modern convenience. This is not a bad thing, but it can undermine the allure of an escape into the wild. A night under the stars is the perfect remedy: a way to reset, unplug and connect with Africa in the most authentic way possible.

So, lie back, put your feet up and immerse yourself in the magic of the African night with our top 13 sleepout spots.

Check out our selection of safaris that allow you to sleep out under the stars. Alternatively, browse all of our ready-made safaris, or let us help build one just for you.

For the wildest night of your life

There is no better way to soak up the wildness of the African night, than with a night spent stargazing in the open, sounds of nocturnal activity echoing close by.

Skybeds, Khwai Private Reserve, Botswana: Northern Botswana is one of Africa’s most prolifically productive safari destinations, so a night spent in Skybeds overlooking the only permanent water source for miles around is guaranteed to be an adventure. Fall asleep to the sound of rumbling elephants, whooping hyenas and roaring lions, awakening to the savannah dawn’s crisp beauty.

Kanana Deck, Okavango Delta, Botswana: In the heart of the Okavango Delta, the Kanana Deck is what dreams are made of – quite literally. Unadorned yet comfortable, the Kanana Deck offers a safe way to experience the electrifying nightlife in one of the wildest spots in Africa.

Elephant Hide Star Bed at Kaingo Camp, Shenton Safaris, South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: The Luangwa River is the core of the entire Luangwa Valley ecosystem. The Elephant Hide Star Bed nestled in a jackalberry tree on its banks is perfectly positioned to take advantage of the action. With nothing separating you from the African night but the thin gauze of a mosquito net, the experience is vividly wild and soul-refreshing.

Sleep out under the stars - stargazing from the comfort of your bed — Skybeds in Khwai Private Reserve, the Elephant Hide Star Bed at Kaingo Camp in South Luangwa National Park, and the Kanana Deck in the Okavango Delta all make for a wild night in the open

For the purest desert stargazing experience

Southern African stargazing is legendary, and there is nowhere better to experience it than in a desert, where the night sky is bright, clear, and unobscured by city lights or tall trees.

Namib Dune Star Camp, Namib-Naukluft National Park, Namibia: Some of the best star bathing can be done in the austere Namib Desert. Namib Dune, an adventure camp, is perched on the top of ancient ochre dunes overlooking the majesty of the desert. Enjoy a sundowner on the deck and take in the view before wheeling the bed out onto the deck and snuggling into its warmth. Although the desert nights may be chilly, the cold only makes the blanket of stars more spectacular.

The Malori, Tswalu Kalahari Reserve, South Africa: Arrive as the setting sun begins to paint the Kalahari sands in shades of red, and choose your Nepenthe nectar of choice to drink in the arrival of the darkness. Then retire to sink into soft linens and drift off to sleep serenaded by barking geckos.

For extreme solitude and respite

Far from the madding crowd in the quiet of night is where pure peace can be found. For soaking up the vastness of space and the universe beyond, uncomplicated elegance and seclusion are best.

Meno a Kwena, Makgadikgadi Pans, Botswana: A comfy mattress, a lamp, and the vast expanse of the Makgadikgadi Pans stretching out in every direction without another soul for miles around? This is a sleepout at its purest – a no-frills embrace of the essence of this extraordinary piece of wilderness.

Africa on Foot Treehouse, Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, South Africa: How better to celebrate an already adventurous day on foot amongst the continent’s most iconic animals than with a well-earned night spent stargazing in the open air of the bushveld? Africa on Foot is removed from the crowds, and offers tranquillity and comfort to counterpoint days out exploring.

For open-air luxury

Sleeping roofless does not mean compromising on quality and opulence. Comfort and leisure can still take priority when spending a night out in the open.

Tuludi Sky Suite, Khwai Private Reserve, Botswana: Simple, elegant, and tasteful, the Tuludi Sky Suite provides its visitors with every luxury while blending perfectly into its wild environment. Enjoy sitting next to the cosy fire as the creatures of the Okavango night come alive and embrace the dawn the following day with a refreshing open-air shower.

Starbed Treehouse at Victoria Falls River Lodge, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe: Rising on stilts above the mighty Zambezi River and nestled in the treeline of Kandahar Island, the Starbed Treehouses offer expansive views of magnificent surroundings. The double story treehouse provides all the comfort of a five-star luxury lodge, complete with a plunge pool, but it is the king-sized bed on the open upper deck that makes this stargazing experience truly extraordinary.

For waking up to incredible views

Nothing beats the satisfaction of waking up to the first rays of the sun stretching out across the plains below, straight onto your duvet. Breathtaking night skies and even better morning views make for overwhelming magic.

Star bed, Samara Karoo Reserve, Karoo, South Africa: Samara’s star bed, perched on the Milk River, will take your breath away. From the comfort of your bed, you can watch as wildlife descends to the water to drink. Soak up views over the mountainous landscape, free of light and noise pollution, while marvelling at the Milky Way. Drift off to sleep in the warm bed, and wake up to the birdsong of the Karoo.

Samara’s star bed offers views over the spectacular Karoo

Loisaba Star Beds, Loisaba Conservancy, Laikipia, Kenya: Generally, the Milky Way steals the show on most African sleepouts, but, at Loisaba, it is the sunrise that is the showstopper. Even the latest habitual sleeper will be inspired to rise before dawn breaks to sip on a hot beverage and watch the sun slowly drench the rolling plains below in gold.

Star Bed, Busanga Plains Camp, Kafue National Park, Zambia: Not many can say they have spent the night in the open amidst the wetlands of Kafue National Park, where palm groves, papyrus-choked reed beds and lily-covered lagoons support an abundance of life. The jewel of Kafue, Busanga Plains hosts a lush mosaic of grassy seasonal floodplains stretching to the horizon. The Star Bed at Busanga Plains Camp is on a four-meter platform amidst the palms, overlooking the floodplains below. Wake up to a cacophony of magical sounds in this birding and wildlife paradise.

Ol Donyo Lodge, Chyulu Hills, Kenya: Hewn into the ancient lava rock that dominates the dramatically beautiful Chyulu Hills, the Ol Donyo Lodge is every bit at one with nature as it appears. Here, sleeping under the stars is simply viewed as an essential part of the safari experience, and every suite is equipped with a starbed on the upper level so that its visitors can use it at will. Unsurprisingly, many visitors spend every night of their visit embracing this stargazing opportunity.

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Greater Kruger wildlife count + magnificent hippos + grey parrots

Kruger is known to many as ‘the greatest place on earth’, and I’m delighted I’ll be getting my own fix in the north of the park in just two weeks’ time. (And you can too – check out our discounted rates on some epic Kruger lodges here).

As one of the most robust conservation areas in South Africa, the land encompassing Kruger National Park and Greater Kruger is home to South Africa’s greatest wildlife populations. The APNR, a collection of reserves in Greater Kruger, provides an essential tract of land for Kruger’s animals to roam. Monitoring these populations helps preserve the integrity of this important ecosystem. We delve into the latest APNR census results to highlight the fascinating ebb and flow of nature – see our first story below.

This week we also celebrate the most hardy and entertaining of animals: the magnificent hippopotamus. Jamie shares some personal encounters with the powerful and speedy beasts, and some intriguing facts shedding light on these mysterious semi-aquatic creatures. These pics and insights are guaranteed to bring lightness to your being. Check out our second story.

Happy indulging in Africa to you all!

Taryn van Jaarsveld — Editor

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

The phrase “illegal wildlife trade” immediately brings to mind things like rhino horn, ivory, pangolin scales and lion bones. But did you know that parrots are one of the most trafficked animal families in the world? Their popularity in the pet trade (along with extensive habitat loss) has meant that 60% of Earth’s Psittaciformes (parrot) species are in decline.

Take the African grey parrot, for example. They are currently listed as Endangered on the IUCN Red List and, prior to their inclusion on Appendix I of CITES in 2017, were trapped in their thousands to supply the pet trade. Fortunately, there are those dedicated to protecting remaining wild populations. Dr Rowan Martin has shared updates on the work of the World Parrot Trust on our forum. To check out the post, download our app (details below). You can also seamlessly donate to the project to support their significant contribution to parrot conservation!

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/keeping-count-wildlife-populations-in-kruger-private-nature-reserves/
KEEPING COUNT
Associated Private Nature Reserves (APNR), part of Greater Kruger, completed their 2021 wildlife census. We analyse the ebb & flow of results

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/hippopotamus/
ALL ABOUT HIPPOS
The hippopotamus – a large semiaquatic mammal – is one of the most powerful, speedy and feared animals in Africa

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Desert & delta
This iconic and ever-popular 11-day safari is about water – or the lack thereof. We visit Victoria Falls, Okavango Delta, Chobe and the desolate Botswana salt pans in our quest to understand how water defines southern Africa’s wild places. Options for all budgets. And we can tailor the duration to suit you – drop this, add that …

And now for something completely different
Look away if your ideal safari is in the comfort zone because this is not your average vanilla-flavoured outing! Search for lowland gorillas, bongos, dwarf crocodiles, forest elephants and flocks of grey parrots in the dense forests of Congo in this one-of-a-kind, life-changing adventure.

Make an impact with our app

Ian Macallan of Project Luangwa, says:

“Thanks to a donation received from AG’s app subscribers, Project Luangwa was able to provide 15 new desks to Yosefe Secondary School in Zambia, helping to provide a proper workspace for Grade 1 pupils who had up until recently been sitting on the floor in class. As class sizes continue to rise, we can often see 4 or 5 students crammed onto one small desk. Rural schools in the country face many challenges.”

See how you can make a difference in Africa by checking out our trusted app projects.

WATCH: Anatolian shepherd dogs play an important role in alleviating human-wildlife conflict between livestock farmers and predators in Namibia. Meet Captain, a guard dog who dutifully watches over and protects his herds morning, noon and night (03:15). Click here to watch

Hippopotamus

It was just before the arrival of the rains in the South African Lowveld, when the heat seems relentless. We had come across a solitary bull hippopotamus, squeezed into a tiny patch of remaining mud, the skin on his back cracked and dry. I parked the safari vehicle at a comfortable distance, observing his body language for any signs of upset, as hippos are understandably grumpy at the height of the dry season. But he could have been dead for all the movement he showed – only the slight twitches of his ears gave him away as he snoozed.

We sat for a while, contemplating the harshness of nature before I did something unfortunate. It was blazing hot, and there was not a single patch of shade. And so, I pulled out a spray-on sunscreen. Without thinking, I depressed the nozzle, and all hell broke loose…

With a sound akin to the unblocking of the world’s largest toilet, the bull extracted himself from the mud wallow and launched himself at us, mouth agape and enormous tusks front and centre. In the time it took me to start the car and throw it into reverse, he had covered the significant distance between us and was almost level with my door. I had a brief but unfortunate view of the back of his throat before I hurtled backwards up a steep slope. The bull pulled up short and shot me a rightfully affronted look. I suspect, had he been able to talk, he would have muttered some very unflattering words. To say I was decidedly rattled, deeply regretful and suitably chastened would be an understatement.

That night, the heat broke, the heavens opened, and summer rolled in on thick cumulus clouds. The bull hippo was gone the next day.

Quick introduction

I have had many other hippopotamus sightings, which have been more interesting or even more dangerous than the sunscreen incident (we were, after all, in a car and able to move away). Yet that moment still stands out in my mind as the most spectacular display of power from a hippopotamus I have witnessed – for the sheer speed with which the two-tonne bull went from dozing to full-on gallop.

As one of the largest land mammals in the world and distributed across most of sub-Saharan Africa’s waterways, the hippopotamus (Hippopotamus amphibius) probably needs little in the way of introduction. These semiaquatic behemoths prefer to spend the vast majority of their days (sometimes 16 hours or more) in the water, emerging at night or on cloudy days to graze. Despite this hydrophilic existence, hippos are surprisingly poor swimmers. They prefer to wallow in the shallows where they can stand on the river floor and move through the water by trotting or leaping along the bottom. Their dense bones confer a high specific gravity which allows them to counteract the buoyancy of the water – but this also means they cannot float.

Their specially designed skulls align the ears, eyes and nostrils on the top of the head, so these sensory organs can protrude above the surface while the hippo remains otherwise submerged. When submerged entirely, the muscles around the ears and nostrils constrict and fold to seal off to keep the water out. A hippo can hold its breath for around five minutes due to a slowed metabolism but must regularly emerge to replenish its oxygen supplies.

Though this aquatic existence confers several advantages, there is one significant trade-off: a hippo’s skin is extremely sensitive to the sun. Most people by now are familiar with the hippo’s “blood sweat” – a pinkish substance secreted onto the skin that is not blood at all but rather a specialised sunscreen. The two pigments – hipposudoric acid and norhipposudoric acid – also have antimicrobial properties to help guard the skin against infection.

Quick facts

Mass:	Males: average 1, 500kg (up to over 3,000kg)
Mass:	Females: average 1,300kg
Shoulder height:	1.30 – 1. 65m
Social structure:	Territorial males and pods of females and offspring
Gestation:	243 days (eight months)
Life expectancy:	Up to 40 years
Conservation status:	Vulnerable

Like a fish to water

The hippopotamus (Hippopotamus amphibious) is one of two living members of the Hippopotamidae family. The second member is the endangered pygmy hippopotamus (Choeropsis liberiensis), native to the forests and swamps of West Africa. Several extinct members of the Hippopotamidae, some almost identical to the present-day species, once dominated the river systems across Europe and Asia (including the River Thames!). There were also at least three species of Malagasy hippos, one of which only went extinct roughly 1,000 years ago, which coincides with the arrival of humans on the island.

Endangered pygmy hippos are native to West Africa

The hippopotamids’ closest relatives are the cetaceans – whales and dolphins. The two groups likely split from the other artiodactyls (like ruminants) around 60 million years ago and then diverged from a common semiaquatic ancestor some six million years later. The cetaceans eventually evolved to become fully aquatic, while the hippopotamids remained dependent on access to land.

Two (or more) hippos in a pod

Compared to other large land-dwelling mammals in Africa, the social interactions between hippos are challenging to study – even distinguishing young males from females is impossible when only their heads are visible. As a result, it is highly likely that there are nuances to their behaviours and social structures yet to be unravelled.

What we do know is that when water and space are plentiful, hippos form small associations of up to 15 or more individuals, known as schools, pods or, somewhat facetiously, bloats. These family groups typically consist of a territorial bull, cows, and their offspring, and mother-daughter bonds are deep-seated and may persist over a lifetime. Young males may be tolerated around the dominant bull, provided they behave submissively around him. They will often gather in small bachelor groups before eventually striking out on their own to claim a territory when they are around seven to eight years old.

Hippos do not adopt a social approach for nocturnal feeding forays, and most prefer a night of solitary snacking (where they may consume over 50kgs of grass in an evening). Interestingly, the territoriality of the bulls does not seem to extend to their land-based life, and researchers now believe that the middens are not territorial as previously thought. Male territoriality revolves around mating rights, so the region he defends in the water and along the riverbank may vary and does not extend to foraging beyond the river.

When space is at a premium (such as during the dry season when available water is limited), hippos may pack together in their hundreds. Still, they do so with seemingly great reluctance, and fights are a regular occurrence.

Frolicking hippos

Hippos may breed throughout the year, though there is usually a peak in calving during the wet season. Mating usually takes place in the water, and the female is forced to snatch quick gasps of air before the male dunks her back under the surface. Conception is followed by an eight-month gestation and the birth of a calf that may weigh up to 50kg. (It is worth considering how short this gestation period is compared to other mammals. In terms of size comparison, both rhino species give birth to calves of a similar size but their gestation period is almost double that of a hippopotamus. Even humans have a longer gestation.)

Social interactions between hippos are challenging to study; as the calf grows, it becomes more confident and playful; hippo mothers are highly protective of their young; hippos in their hundreds crowd into the last remaining waters during the dry season in Katavi National Park, Tanzania; hippos form small associations of up to 15 or more individuals. For more images from Danielle Carstens, follow @dcwildlifephotography

The hippo mother gives birth on her own in a quiet pool of water, and the calf instinctively strikes out for the surface immediately. The pair remain isolated until the enchanting little calf is old enough to be introduced to the rest of the pod at around a month old. As the calf grows, it becomes more confident and playful, often engaging in wrestling matches with other calves of a similar age.

Hippopotamus mothers are highly protective of their young, and hippo calves have few natural predators – generally, only lions and large spotted hyena clans attempt to hunt them. Even the massive crocodiles that share the rivers and pools are reluctant to attract maternal ire. However, one aspect of hippo behaviour that often shocks witnesses is the rare instances of infanticide. This is typically committed by the dominant bull during a territorial disruption or in times of stress, and the mother is seldom able to prevent it.

Speaking hippo

Naturally, visual communication between individuals is inevitably reasonably limited in the murky underwater environment. As a result, much hippo communication is vocal, with a laugh-like grunt being perhaps the most well-known of their vocal repertoire. However, few people realise that aside from the above surface grunts, roars, bellows and shrieks, hippos also communicate underwater. Studies show that up to 80% of hippo vocalisations are made below the surface. Some of these sub-aquatic songs are very similar to the high-pitched calls produced by whales.

A hippo can open its mouth to almost 180 degrees

Visually, the famously wide yawn is perhaps the hippo’s most notorious body language cue. The joint of the jaw is situated far back in the skull, and the orbicularis oris (the muscle we all have around our mouths) is folded in such a way in the hippo that, at full stretch, it can open its mouth almost 180 degrees. This serves to reveal an intimidating set of tusks, particularly in adult males, and should usually be interpreted as a threat display. The lower canine tusks curve upwards and can grow over 50cm in length, while the lower incisors present a forward-facing barrier of spears. The tusks are used as offensive weapons, predominantly when two bulls fight.

Fights between territorial males become more common when available water starts to shrink during the dry season. These clashes can be ferocious and fatal if one party does not back down. The vanished bull is sent packing, which, when water is scarce, can be a death sentence in the hot sun due to their sensitive skins.

The most dangerous animal in Africa?

These fearsome tusks are feared by all who encounter them, including people. The hippo is often touted as “Africa’s most dangerous animal” and the one that “kills the most people on the continent”. Both of these statements are distinctly unfair and demonstrably false. For a start (though admittedly somewhat pedantically), malaria-spreading Anopheles mosquitoes are also animals and indirectly kill up to half a million people every year. Furthermore, crocodiles likely kill just as many, if not more, people as hippos, but the bodies are frequently not found, and the victim disappears without a trace.

That said, hippos do earn their dangerous reputation. They can be aggressive and are massive, well-armed animals capable of doing significant harm. And unless you happen to be Usain Bolt, they can outrun you. Yet even this needs to be considered in context. Hippos are aquatic animals, and humans are dependent (and more populous) around water. Hippos feel safest in the water and are unlikely to bother people when fully submerged. It is when people come between them and their place of safety (or a calf) or, like my bull, during the dry season when space is at a premium, that they are most likely to attack. Staying out of their way is the best course of action. However, unfortunately, this is simply not possible for many people dependent on the river systems and living without running water.

Caught up in the tide

Of course, as dangerous as hippos can be to people, mankind too has wrought destruction on their species, and they now occupy just a fraction of their historical range. At present, the IUCN estimates there are somewhere between 115,000 and 130,000 Hippopotamus amphibius in Africa and lists their conservation status as “Vulnerable”. Though the assessors have listed the overall population trend as stable rather than decreasing, there are still many parts of Africa where hippo numbers have declined precipitously. Their close relative, the pygmy hippopotamus, is listed as “Endangered”, and there are believed to be fewer than 2,500 remaining.

The main threats facing the hippopotamids are habitat loss (as is the case for all large African mammals) and poaching for their tusks, valued in the ivory trade. They are also frequently victims of bushmeat poaching.

Yet, like other large mammals such as elephants and rhinos, hippos are important ecosystem engineers. The copious amounts of dung flung into the water by their swishing tails (much to tourist delight) provides nutrients to the many aquatic species that inhabit the waterways of Africa. Furthermore, their movement through channels and along the riverbed helps prevent a build-up of silt and moribund material, improving the river’s flow.

The greatest of beasts

When watched from a safe and comfortable distance, hippos are fascinating and delightful animals. They are also powerful, speedy and deserving of absolute respect. From the charming little calves and placid cows to playful adolescents and awe-inspiring bulls, there is something profoundly intriguing about the knowledge that we still have so much to learn…

Keeping count – wildlife populations in Kruger’s private nature reserves

Wildlife populations in Kruger private nature reserves — Buffalo seen from the air in Timbavati Private Nature Reserve

Recently, five private reserves that form the Associated Private Nature Reserves (APNR) in South Africa – a vital part of the Greater Kruger ecosystem – provided Africa Geographic with the data from their 2021 population censuses. We have sifted through this APNR census information to highlight the fascinating ebb and flow of nature and how reserve managers have to balance this against anthropogenic stressors to preserve the integrity of the ecosystem.

To do this, we start by looking at some of the key points from our analysis and provide important context for interpreting the results before breaking down the population trends for certain important species and families. [Editorial note: Due to security concerns, rhino trends and numbers have been omitted.]

INTERPRETING IN CONTEXT

Wildlife counts are invaluable for reserve management teams but cannot be viewed in isolation. CONTEXT IS EVERYTHING, and while each member of the APNR conducts their own census every year (resources allowing), it is a connected ecosystem. Ideally, these population censuses should be interpreted in combination with those of the Kruger National Park because they share an unfenced ecosystem. This is particularly true for animals with massive home ranges like elephants, buffalo, and wild dogs.
The counts have the potential to be meaningless without context and informed interpretation. Once the numbers are known, the real work begins for ecologists and managers – sorting through what is or isn’t important or relevant (or even natural) and finding explanations for anomalies.
Interpretation involves consideration of many different aspects, including climate (rainfall in particular), increased land area (the addition of Thornybush Game Reserve to the APNR in 2018, for example) and the impact of other species.
It is important to note specific correlations as the overabundance or scarcity of key species can significantly impact both the environment and other species.
No count is ever 100% accurate and only provides a snapshot in time, so analysing trends is essential.
This is not to say that individual results are insignificant. Local precipitous declines or overpopulations can indicate a serious problem that may not always have a natural or apparent cause.

THE ASSOCIATED PRIVATE NATURE RESERVES (APNR) – BACKGROUND

The 197,885 ha APNR is an association of privately owned reserves on the western edge of the Kruger National Park. Initially, the APNR consisted of just three reserves: Timbavati Private Nature Reserve (53,395 ha), Klaserie Private Nature Reserve (60,080 ha), and Umbabat Private Nature Reserve (17,910 ha). These three reserves removed their fences bordering the Kruger National Park in 1993. Balule Private Nature Reserve (55,000 ha) joined the association just over a decade later, and the fences between Balule and Klaserie dropped in 2005. Thornybush Game Reserve (13,866 ha) became the fifth reserve to join when the fences between Thornybush, Klaserie and Timbavati were removed in 2018.

The combined APNR comprises nearly two-thirds of the entire Greater Kruger – 344,000 hectares (860,000 acres) of protected land to the west of Kruger National Park that provides a more substantial area for wildlife to roam freely. Other members of the Greater Kruger include the Sabi Sand Reserve, Manyeleti Game Reserve, Letaba Ranch Game Reserve, and Makuya Nature Reserve. Land use varies from private leisure to photographic tourism and trophy hunting on some properties. For those reserves that conduct hunting, wildlife censuses are necessary to set appropriate quotas each year.

A WORD ON COUNTING

Counting wild animals is an enormous and costly exercise that requires that adaptive techniques for each species be balanced against the economic and logistical realities of each reserve. The APNR alone is roughly the size of Mauritius. The vast majority of the counts are conducted by air, with counters, spotters and data recorders spending days hanging out of a helicopter or plane. These are highly skilled individuals capable of not only spotting the animals but also often able to provide a breakdown of the demographics (males, females, and juveniles) of every animal seen. The counts are conducted towards the end of the dry season when vegetation cover is minimal, and the animals are more visible.

Larger animals like elephants and buffalo are generally easier to count (and fewer in number than, say, impala), so population estimates tend to be more accurate. Large herds (like breeding herds of buffalo) can be photographed, and these high-resolution images can then be used to count individuals. Though all animals spotted from the air are recorded in each census, common sense plays a role in interpretation. For example, a sighting of only one lion in Thornybush’s 2021 aerial count does not mean that there is only one lion on the reserve.

Furthermore, though predators are often spotted from the air, aerial counts do not provide accurate population estimates, particularly for cryptic animals like leopards and some smaller carnivore species. As a result, some reserves use camera traps and sightings information and conduct call-ups for their predator census. A call-up count involves placing bait and playing the sound of a prey species in distress over a speaker. The sound generally attracts the lions, spotted hyenas, and the occasional leopard and smaller carnivore. Wild dogs (painted wolves) and cheetahs are less likely to respond, even during the day and alternative methods have to be implemented if a population estimate is required. These predators also have large home ranges and regularly move in and out of reserves.

Predator populations are fluid and dynamic, fluctuating depending upon a variety of circumstances, including both inter- and intraspecific competition.

TRENDS AND THE 2016 DROUGHT IN GREATER KRUGER

The idea of a “stable” population is somewhat misleading, as there is no such thing in nature and, in reality, long-term wildlife populations fluctuate, ideally within a sustainable range. This range is determined by the carrying capacity of the reserve, dictated by geography, climate and flora of the landscape. Even when a once-off disaster (a disease outbreak or drought) causes a more dramatic decline in numbers, the species concerned often recover, provided their previous numbers were sufficiently robust.

The ebb and flow is evident throughout the data from all five reserves, especially concerning buffalo numbers during and after the 2015/2016 drought. Though the number of buffalo dropped substantially during the drought period, it is important to note that this is largely accounted for by the movement of buffalo herds to more favourable habitats to the east (in the Kruger National Park). Trends such as these emphasise the importance of large connected habitats. The 2016 drought was the first drought experienced since the removal of fences between the APNR and the Kruger National Park. This, in turn, allowed for greater ecological resilience in the face of extreme conditions.

Even as rainfall levels increased in later years, the return of the buffalo and the recovery of other ungulate numbers were by no means instantaneous, and lag effects were to be expected. What’s more, knock-on effects were experienced in other, less obvious ways. For example, deprived of buffalo, resident lions would have been forced to rely more heavily on other species for sustenance. There is also a seasonal change in prey species selection, with more wildebeest killed by lions during the wet season and weakened buffalo targeted during the dry season.

APNR census — Comparisons of selective grazer and wildebeest trends in Klaserie Private Nature Reserve in relation to rainfall demonstrate that, even as rainfall levels increased in later years, the return of the recovery of ungulate numbers were by no means instantaneous, and lag effects were to be expected (Graphs © Colin Rowles)

ELEPHANTS

Entire APNR – Elephant numbers in the APNR have gradually increased since 2004, when the population stood at around 1,038. The population peaked in 2018 (3,297). In 2021, the total count from all five reserves was 3,144 elephants.

Balule – Balule has seen the most significant increase in elephants utilising the property over the past four years – 86%. 1,053 elephants were counted in 2021, representing the highest population (and density) of the five reserves. The demographics of the elephants entering Balule have also gradually changed since the reserve opened to the rest of the APNR in 2004. Initially, young males dominated, but today, breeding herds and calves are firmly in the majority.

Klaserie – 718 elephants were counted in 2021, increasing 62% since 2017.

Timbavati – 875 elephants were counted in 2021, compared to the 465 in 2017 (a nearly two-fold increase).

Thornybush – When Thornybush dropped its fences in 2018, the number of elephants in the reserve shot up from just over 50 individuals to 349. The population peaked at 770 before decreasing to 368 again in 2021. This increase and then decrease could be explained by the after-effects of the drought and the return of good rains in subsequent years. The dense, nutritious habitats that dominate much of Thornybush were more attractive to elephants until the flora in other regions recovered, resulting in some of the herds dispersing.

Umbabat – 130 elephants were counted in 2021. However, Umbabat elephant counts have varied considerably over the past four years, possibly explained by its relatively smaller size and close proximity to the Kruger National Park.

BUFFALO

Entire APNR – During (and almost exclusively due to) the 2015/2016 drought, the APNR buffalo population dropped from 7,291 to 2,251 in just two years. However, numbers have been slowly increasing with a couple of years’ worth of good rains, and the 2021 count stands at 3,725. Individual counts from the various APNR reserves are highly variable due to the nature of buffalo herds and the “snapshot” of the count. A breeding herd of over 500 may decide to leave the property the day before a count or arrive a day after. This is one area where an overall trend is more revealing.

PREDATORS

LION AND SPOTTED HYENA

Balule – Balule has experienced substantial growth in its lion population over the last decade. However, the verified numbers from the 2020 and 2021 censuses indicate a stabilisation and a minor decline, from 137 to 124 individuals. Curiously, Balule’s lion population has been nearly double that of neighbouring Klaserie and Timbavati in recent years. This could be partly explained by high prey biomass, but of particular interest is the high proportion of mature and young males in Balule compared to “normally” observed demographics. The managers theorise that may be due to the reserve’s geographical location. Young dispersal males may be pushed continually further west until they reach Balule, which marks the western boundary of this section of the Kruger ecosystem, where they can go no further without breaking out of the protection of the reserve. However, this leaves unanswered questions about Klaserie as the immediate neighbour to the east (see below).

Typically, high lion densities are associated with lower spotted hyena numbers, but this is not the case in Balule. 96 individual spotted hyenas were identified during the 2021 predator census, suggesting that spotted hyena densities in Balule are roughly on par with the surrounding reserves.

Klaserie – Klaserie’s call-up predator census in 2021 yielded a count of just 18 lions, compared to around 40 and 50 in 2020 and 2019, respectively. Naturally, this does not represent the reserve’s total lion population. However, this is a significant drop from previous years, and the call-up counts of 2021 were dominated by spotted hyena responses (80%). 141 spotted hyenas were counted in the 2021 census, compared to just under 80 the previous year. Lions and spotted hyenas are in direct competition, and a rise in hyena numbers could account for lower-than-expected lion populations.

Timbavati – According to the reserve ecologists, Timbavati has a population of between 55-60 lions which is in line with the long-term trend of the reserve.

Thornybush – The current resident lion population on Thornybush numbers 26 individuals. Reserve authorities estimate between 25 and 30 spotted hyenas.

Umbabat – The lion population was estimated at around 12 to 16 individuals, belonging to between two and three prides. The hyena numbers are believed to be approximately 50 to 60, and reports suggest that the population is growing.

LEOPARDS

Entire APNR – Leopards are notoriously difficult animals to count, and those that do respond to call-ups are not representative of the total population. Klaserie and Umbabat anecdotally report healthy populations of leopards. The most robust data comes from Balule and Timbavati.

Balule – The Balule predator census combined call-up results with sightings data and camera trap images. The identification of individuals helped in this process, and Balule confidently estimates the number of leopards at around 76.

Timbavati – Timbavati has been conducting surveys of their leopard population since 2013 (except for 2020 due to COVID). In conjunction with the South African Leopard Monitoring Project (a cooperative effort between the NGO Panthera, SANBI and other partners), camera trap surveys have provided reliable long-term trends for the reserve. The reserve leopard monitoring reports note a significant drop in leopard densities in 2019. While the 2021 data records a slight increase, there has still been a concerning decline of 50% between 2018 to 2021. It is important to note that this decline refers to leopard densities, measured in the number of leopards per 100km². Interestingly, the number of adult males and females has remained consistent between 2019 to 2021, but the number of young males appears to have decreased. The report offers a couple of suggested explanations for this, including lion movements, but emphasises the importance of long-term trend monitoring to inform management practices.

WILD DOGS

Entire APNR – Wild dogs utilise enormous home ranges except when packs are denning, before the pups can keep up. A pack counted on Balule one day could easily turn up on a neighbouring property the next day. As such, precision counting is next to impossible. Nevertheless, anecdotal evidence suggests that the APNR wild dog population is healthy and possibly even growing.

Balule – 22 wild dogs were recorded in Balule: three packs of five and one pack of seven individuals.

Klaserie – Reserve authorities report that wild dog populations have flourished in Klaserie in recent years, possibly due to water abundance, favouring impala population growth. The single largest pack size recorded on the reserve was 50 individuals!

Thornybush – At the time of writing, two packs regularly use Thornybush. One pack of six individuals is currently denning on the reserve.

Umbabat – Wild dog sightings are regularly reported in Umbabat, with pack sizes varying from eight to 30 individuals.

GIRAFFE

Entire APNR – Giraffe numbers in the APNR peaked at 1,127 in 2018 and have since remained stable when all five reserves are considered as a unit.

BLUE WILDEBEEST, KUDU, IMPALA, WATERBUCK AND WARTHOG

Entire APNR – Balule has recorded a significant decline in blue wildebeest (-57%), kudu (-44%), impala (-37%), waterbuck (-54%) and warthog (-63%) from 2018 until 2021. Population peaks and troughs have probably occurred naturally for millennia (especially before and after a drought). However, it is interesting that the same trend is not entirely mirrored in the counts from other APNR members. Where declines in the other reserves occurred over the same period, as was the case for impala, kudu and wildebeest numbers, the drop in populations was not nearly as substantial. The only comparable drop was seen in warthog numbers in Klaserie, which also decreased 61% (from 236 to 91) between 2018 and 2021. Waterbuck numbers increased in Klaserie and Thornybush, and kudu numbers nearly doubled in Umbabat.

Determining an exact explanation for this trend is just one example of the challenges that face those managing these wild spaces. Was it caused by increasing vegetation thickness making counting challenging? Could it be attributed to Balule’s comparatively high lion, hyena, and elephant densities? Is it just part of a natural cycle, or is there another, unseen explanation?

OTHER NOTEWORTHY POINTS

Balule’s census indicates a concerning drop in crocodiles counted, down from over 120 in some years to just 30 individuals. The authors of the census report suggest that this warrants further investigation. In addition, comparing counts in the Kruger National Park would be interesting, as the Olifants River flows west through Balule and into the Kruger. It may be a counting artefact but could also indicate a problem with the health of the river ecosystem.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Counting animals comes with challenges (and strained eyes), but analysing the data is a far more cerebral and long-term exercise. Wildlife counts are vital to understanding any wilderness and significantly impact management decisions. Accurate population estimates and trends aid short-term and long-term decisions (like waterholes or hunting quotes, for example) and identify potential problems while there is still a chance to remedy them. However, an overarching perspective is often invaluable in the case of connected ecosystems – be it the APNR, the Kruger ecosystem, conservancies in East Africa or Transfrontier conservation areas.

What do you think about the ebb and flow of various species numbers in the APNR? We’d love to hear your thoughts. Follow the instructions below to download our APP and share your comments – it’s free!

Resources

Read more on the complicated processes around counting animals here.

Read more on the importance of good counts in aiding lion conservation here.

THIS WEEK

Miss me? Well then, go on safari with Africa Geographic! Kidepo Valley, Uganda.

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And the winner is …

It’s early prime safari season and we have clients all over Africa enjoying this incredible place. Safari njema, folks!

Exciting news is that our app now empowers you to play a bigger role in planning your own safari. You can now select lodges from the ‘Travel with us’ tab by place (country, reserve name) and add them to your ‘wishlist‘. Our team are on stand by to mould your wishlist into a life-changing safari – when you are ready. You can also toggle between map view and list view, select non-malaria options and see prices in the currency of your choice.

We are now loading ready-made safari packages to the mix – which you can also add to your wishlist. Again you can filter by place – and also by your preferred experience. Expect more packages in the coming weeks as we populate that app feature.

Another great improvement to the app is that you can filter our stories and forum posts by topic – simply tap/click the red topic labels and voila!

Exciting times 🙂

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

?? We have a winner! ??
Sound the trumpets, beat the drums – see the conquering heroes come! This week, we reveal the winner, runners-up and highly commended images from Photographer of the Year 2022. We’ve celebrated epic Africa through impeccable images from some of the world’s most talented photographers.

Thank you to every photographer who courageously shared your valuable art with us, so that we may all experience Africa as you have. Your skill and creativity have brought this magic right to us – and for that, we thank every one of you.

Happy celebrating Africa to you all!

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Evolution is one of those things that happens so slowly that we can’t really see the changes, right? Well, not entirely, as it turns out. Did you know that in certain animals, adaptive evolution may be occurring up to four times faster than previously believed?

Scientists looked at 19 different wild populations of birds and mammals studied over several decades to figure this out. The data utilised represent around 2.6 million hours of fieldwork and a quarter of a million study subjects! They then applied some somewhat complicated genetic models and statistics to quantify the rate of evolution.

As the lead author explains, we are witnessing Darwinian evolution “acting observably in our lifetimes“.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-winners/
AND THE WINNER IS
We have a winner! See the winning image, runners-up and highly commended entries from Photographer of the Year 2022

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

3 Epic safaris to do before you kick the bucket. Not all safaris are born equal. Some are so special by the very nature of what they offer that even our seasoned teamAG consultants feature them in their personal ‘must-do’ lists.

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Wildlife viewing is excellent – Manyeleti boasts regular sightings of the Big 5 (lion, leopard, rhino, elephant, buffalo) and other species such as zebra, hippo and giraffe. Predators such as cheetah, hyena and African wild dogs are also regularly encountered.

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“Earlier this year, I went on an epic 17-day Kenya safari with AG. We searched for and found super tuskers and endangered hirola in Tsavo and Amboseli. In Mara we had great leopard, lion, serval and cheetah sightings. I stayed at Satao Camp (Tsavo East), Satao Elerai Camp (Amboseli) & Sentinel Mara Camp (Maasai Mara) and, booking with AG, I received a great rate. So when it came down to it, I saved US$ 1,485 on my trip. Plus, I got some iconic shots of elephants against the backdrop of Kilimanjaro to boot.”

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WATCH: One minute and 15 seconds of Botswana’s finest landscapes, waterways and wildlife, to inspire your next safari. Get the AG app to start planning your upcoming safaris now (01:15). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2022 Winners

Announcing… ?? the winners of Photographer of the Year 2022 ??! We’ve waited on this moment with bated breath, and the results do not disappoint. The winner and two runners-up will share the princely sum of US$10,000 and join their partners and our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana, where they’ll take more wonderful snaps of our wildlife, landscapes and people.

Photographer of the Year is Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

A note from our editor

What a feat – we have reached the summit of Photographer of the Year 2022 – after traversing 7,389 glorious entries, which rendered 344 images selected in our weekly galleries. We’ve narrowed these wondrous images down to 14 highly commended, two runners-up, and one ultimate winner.

Over the past few months, we’ve witnessed authentic Africa come to life. We’ve been granted rare otherworldly glimpses into the ocean’s depths and onto the peaks of the continent’s tallest mountains, into rare species, ethereal treescapes, and some uncanny creatures in compromising positions. We’ve witnessed wondrous wildlife caught in junctures between survival and demise and in moments of calm and affection. We’ve been transported by visceral images of intimate human rites and rituals, and our understanding of the natural world has been tested and enlightened, igniting introspection and inspiration. From victorious wins to desperate losses, from new life to untimely death, we’ve realised that the great continent will never cease to surprise us. All of our entrants found themselves in precisely the right place at the right time, and through their skill and creativity, they have brought this magic right to us – and for that, we thank every one of you.

I gush over these enlightening experiences as it bears repeating that the selection process was tough. But our chosen winners are right where they belong. They have evoked emotion, told explicit tales and captured true Africa with artistic and considerate skill. Thank you to everyone who fearlessly laid the wares of your efforts and skill bare so that we may experience Africa as you have.

Lastly, we offer thanks and gratitude to our sponsors, Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection, whose epic prizes are the most fitting reward for the endeavours of these excellent photographers.

WINNER – PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR 2022

Last seconds of life. A mother zebra makes one final attempt to separate her foal from its pursuant – but fails. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya.

Judges’ comment:

There is something about this dramatic capture of a split-second in the lives of this cheetah and zebras that transcends the many predation photos that we receive for consideration. The desperate battle for survival is etched on their faces, and a final goodbye between mother and child emphasises the raw emotional energy of the moment. This is the first predation photo to win Photographer of the Year.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“That morning, we decided to follow four cheetahs on the hunt. We followed them for hours. We passed herds of topis, gazelles, and zebras. We knew something was going to happen. When, five hours later, our Maasai guide whispered, ‘they are going for the zebras,’ I was convinced they would attack the topis or gazelles dotted across the valley. Seconds later, the cheetahs burst into a small group of zebras. One cheetah ran towards us, clinging onto a foal. In those seconds, I took this picture of the mother zebra launching a last attempt to push her foal away from the attacking cheetah. She failed. I will remember those last seconds for the rest of my life.”

About photographer Alex Brackx

Alex Brackx is a wildlife photographer who teaches languages in Belgium. He started to pursue nature photography in 2010 while travelling in South and Central America. Through further travels in Asia, Belarus, Finland, and again South America, he began to hone his craft, travelling to film and take photos of wildlife. For Alex, it is a thrill to photograph his observations of animals, birds, landscapes, jungles, deserts and oceans.

Instagram: @alex_brackx_nature

RUNNERS-UP

(in no specific order)

Sandy anemones (*Aulactinia reynaudi*), found in shallow coastal waters around southern Africa, are dependent on tidal and wave action to bring oxygen and nutrients. When there is not enough ‘fresh’ water, the anemones close up. But when their pools are full of water, a bright festival of colour ensues. False Bay, South Africa. © Geo Cloete

Judges’ comment:

The explosion of colour against the restless energy of the waves, with backlighting courtesy of the sun, combine with the photographer’s patience and technical skills to create an exceptional capture. The ocean’s creatures are largely hidden from us, so otherworldly. This image helps us cross the divide; hopefully, enough of us will listen when we are told that our future depends on healthy oceans.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“Sandy anemones are native to the very shallow waters around the coasts of southern Africa. Those living in rock pools are greatly dependent on tidal and wave action for their survival. These actions bring nutrient and oxygen-rich water to these mostly stationary creatures. When there is not enough ‘fresh’ water, the anemones will close up, and the landscape will become rather barren-looking. But when these pools are full of water, a kaleidoscope of colours can be seen. It’s as if they celebrate life as they are so vividly reminded about the fragile line between feasting and starving with each tidal change.”

About photographer Geo Cloete

Geo Cloete is a multifaceted artist with a degree in architecture from Nelson Mandela Bay University. His photographic works have been recognised through various photographic competitions. Geo has completed award-winning works in architecture, jewellery, sculpture, and photography. As a life-long “aqua man” with an undying love for the ocean, it’s been his passion to share the beauty, splendour and exquisiteness of the underwater world through his photographic projects. Geo strongly believes in the notion that we only love that which we know, and we only protect that which we love. In 2016, in recognition of his contributions to ocean conservation, Geo was selected as a partner for Mission Blue, an organisation that inspires action to explore and protect the ocean.

Instagram: @geo_cloete
Facebook: @GeoCloete

Floating water. A splendid sunbird demonstrates a preference for water from a leaking pipe mere metres from the Saloum River. Sokone, Senegal. © Cecile Terrasse

Judges’ comment:

The mystical impression that this sunbird is carrying a drop of precious liquid to some sacred place makes this a unique capture. Of course, split-second timing was required, and the photographer spent ten days working the scene.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“I am passionate about bird photos, and during my trip to Senegal, I sprained an ankle. I could not walk for days. But I noticed that sunbirds were regularly coming to drink water at a pipe that had a leak. It seemed as if these birds preferred to drink this ‘softer’ water, as the water of the Sine Saloum River is very salty. For ten days in a row, I photographed these birds at that spot. Finally, I could capture the perfect moment, as this sunbird took this water droplet into its mouth.”

About photographer Cecile Terrasse

Cecile Terrasse is a French wildlife photographer. Cecile enjoys spending time in nature, particularly observing and photographing birds. She strives to capture beautiful light and ambience in her photographs.

Instagram: @cecileterrasse_wildlife

HIGHLY-COMMENDED

(in no specific order)

Fade to fynbos. A Knysna dwarf chameleon disappears into the vibrant colours of an Erica shrub. Garden Route Botanical Gardens, George, South Africa. © Brendon White

Judges’ comment:

The explosion of colours immediately tags this capture worthy of a second look. What a wonderful celebration of a cryptic creature accessible to anybody in the right area with loads of patience. Note the flat (non-arched) posture and lack of dark colouration on the chameleon – it’s relaxed.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“A Knysna dwarf chameleon disappears into the vibrant colours of an erica shrub. These chameleons are surprisingly common in the Garden Route Botanical Gardens, although until you get your ‘eye in’, they can be quite tricky to spot.”

About photographer Brendon White

Originally from Francistown, Botswana, Brendon spent much of his childhood enjoying the outdoors. His father’s keen interest in birds and bird photography sparked Brendon’s passion for the same when he left school. This led him to pursue a degree in nature conservation. After working in a variety of southern Africa’s diverse habitats, including four years as a field guide at Phinda Private Game Reserve, he and his wife Zandri moved to the Isles of Scilly in the UK. They now spend their free time searching for rare birds and other interesting wildlife. Without large animals to distract him, Brendon is currently working on photographing the diverse moth species that the UK has to offer.

Instagram: @brendon_white_

A Tsonga fisherman spears a fish caught by the tide in a fish kraal trap. Kosi Bay, South Africa. © Hesté de Beer

Judges’ comment:

Both the fish and the fisherman are caught in a trap. Decreasing naturally functioning habitat means fewer fish and fewer sustainable protein sources and jobs. This is another of Africa’s stories – that vital bond between biodiversity and local people.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“Early morning at low tide, this Tsonga man speared a fish in his family’s fish kraal, which consists of a guide fence that curves towards a fish trap, allowing fish easy entry, but no escape. The Tsonga tribal authority granted his family this specific site for building the kraal. For centuries, the Tsonga people have fished the Kosi Bay lake system, using a skill passed down from generation to generation. Historically, these fish kraals provided a significant food source. In the 1990s, the numbers of these kraals trebled, leading to overfishing in the area. Today, fishermen in the area struggle to provide for their families because of the dwindling fish population.”

About photographer Hesté de Beer

Hesté de Beer hails from a family of skilled photographers, but it was not until 12 years ago that she became interested in the craft. At the time, she asked her father to introduce her to the world of photography. He is still her mentor and strictest critic. Hesté travels with her partner to distant locations around the globe to pursue the most endangered species of the animal kingdom. Through her travels, she has witnessed the adverse effects of the ever-growing human population and technology on the natural world and ancient tribes and cultures. Hesté aims to raise awareness of this plight through her photography.

White-fronted bee-eaters take flight. The Aloe Farm, Hartbeespoort, North West, South Africa. © Sean Davis

Judges’ comment:

This bee-eater stack had us all searching for signs of a composite image! What a celebration of these beautiful birds, movement and grace. Stunning!

Photographer and photo details – read more

“White-fronted bee-eaters are such busy birds and constantly look for insects to feed on. I arrived at the Aloe Farm’s nesting wall to find the bee-eaters flying in and out of their nests and settling on perches along the wall. There were ten bee-eaters perched next to each other: some were basking in the sun, others snacking on insects, and many were preening themselves. Suddenly, something startled them, and they took flight – allowing me to capture this image.”

About photographer Sean Davis

Sean Davis is an amateur nature photographer who has a passion for bird and wildlife photography. Working in the printing industry, he has always had a fascination with photography. In 2015, he accompanied a friend on an outing to photograph birds and the bug bit. Seven years on, Sean has travelled to many destinations in pursuit of honing his skill. He enjoys constantly learning from other inspiring photographers whilst photographing and experiencing the beauty of birds and nature across southern Africa.

Instagram: @sdphotography_za
Website: sdphotography.co.za

Shades of night descending. A black leopard skulks off with a freshly caught dik-dik. The dark colour of this leopard’s fur is caused by melanism, earning it the name ‘black panther’ – a name given to any black-coated big cat within the Panthera genus. Laikipia, Kenya. © Nick Kleer

Judges’ comment:

The stuff of legends. This breathtaking image is for the countless numbers of wildlife enthusiasts that have tried in vain to see a black leopard, let alone photograph one, and with a kill! No further words are required.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“On the night I captured this shot of a young female leopard, I was hosting a safari with guests to spot her. This was the last of our six nights, and we had been hoping for a good view of her. She delivered spectacularly. We observed her for almost an hour, and she was clearly on the hunt. It is tough to follow a black leopard at night as they camouflage very well. We alternated spotlit scans of the area with periods of darkness in the hopes she would be successful on the hunt. And then we heard it: the unmistakable cry of an animal that had been caught. Silence followed. We scanned again. She appeared out of the shadows, carrying a dik-dik kicking helplessly. The leopard proceeded to carry the then lifeless animal toward a nearby riverbank through dense scrub. We moved to an opening where I captured her dragging the carcass over the rocks. Her eyes and the dik-dik lit up for the briefest moment against the pitch-black background before she disappeared and melted into the darkness. This encounter was beyond privileged, and I count myself extremely lucky to have been able to capture this moment.”

About photographer Nick Kleer

Nick is a wildlife guide who has been guiding for 13 years. Most of his guiding career has been spent in South Africa, where he has worked in public and private reserves. Nick has spent most of this time pursuing his greatest passion: big cats. In his spare time, he searches for big cats outside of the African continent, in destinations such as India and Brazil, searching for tigers and jaguars. For the past three years, Nick has stepped out of lodge-based guiding in favour of privately guided trips. He now travels with guests on safari trips to incredible destinations through Africa and beyond. He aims to inspire a love of wildlife through his photography and raise awareness of the importance of conservation of wild areas to make a positive impact on the world of the wild and all its inhabitants.

Instagram: @nickkleer

An Ethiopian herder watches over his cattle as they rest. Ethiopia. © Kevin Dooley

Judges’ comment:

Excellent composition and creative post-production make for a striking portrait. The dramatic sky seems to radiate from this herder – to give him wings – and his intense stare adds to the energy of this capture.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“We left camp around 4.30am. Even in the excited anticipation of photographing the remote tribes of Ethiopia, I dozed on and off as we rocked back and forth along the long and dusty road. Our goal was to reach the tribal village before sunrise. We wanted to capture authentic images of the people going about their morning activities. I love photographing people – I have been a professional portrait photographer all my adult life. When we arrived, the men were busy with their cattle, and I saw this gentleman standing on a small sand mound, watching over his cattle. The sunrise was full of dramatic clouds and beautiful textures. The light was flat enough to maintain detail in the man and the sky. I knelt and placed the clouds in perfect alignment. The man glanced over his cows, and I made the exposure. This will always be one of my favourite photographic moments.”

About photographer Kevin Dooley

Kevin Dooley is an award-winning wildlife, portrait and wedding photographer who grew up in Placitas, New Mexico. His interest in photography began at an early age when at 14, he was gifted with a 35mm camera. Working as an assistant photographer and darkroom technician in his father’s portrait studio, Kevin began his life-long career in photography. After completing service in the US Navy, he returned to New Mexico and opened his photography studio in Albuquerque. During the 39 years the studio has been in operation, he has received numerous awards and been published in many publications. He has also released a photography book: Wild faces in wild places. Africa has always had a special place in Kevin’s heart. He thrives on sharing this amazing place with others.

Instagram: @kevindooley_idubephotosafaris

André Bauma and his ward, Ndakasi – rescued as an infant when the rest of her family was murdered. Bauma and Ndakasi remained close throughout her life until she died in his arms in 2021. Virunga National Park, Democratic Republic of the Congo. © Marcus Westberg

Judges’ comment:

This photo tells the story of one of Africa’s true conservationists – a man who has dedicated his life to saving mountain gorillas – one gorilla at a time. Unlike many in the greater wildlife industries space, Andre Bauma has realised that for some species, we are down to every individual being vital for population stability.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“Andre Bauma rescued the then two-month-old Ndakasi in Virunga National Park, Democratic Republic of Congo, in 2007. Poachers had killed her parents, and she was still clinging to her mother’s dead body when she was found. Carrying her to safety inside his shirt to keep her warm, Andre came to take on the role of both mother and father, sharing Ndakasi’s bed, feeding her, playing with her, and comforting her at her new home, the Senkwekwe Mountain Gorilla Sanctuary. Their bond grew stronger, with Andre often speaking of Ndakasi and the other orphaned gorillas as his children. In September 2021, despite access to specialist veterinarians, Ndakasi succumbed to illness and died in Andre’s arms, 14 years after he found her.”

About photographer Marcus Westberg

Marcus Westberg is an award-winning Swedish photographer and writer who focuses primarily on conservation topics in sub-Saharan Africa and Scandinavia. He is a photographer for African Parks, and his work is frequently found in publications such as the New York Times, Washington Post, bioGraphic, Vagabond, GEO and Wanderlust.

Instagram: @marcuswestbergphotography

Allegory of life and death. Zimanga Private Game Reserve, South Africa. © Hendri Venter

Judges’ comment:

This is not an image to gladden the heart. On the contrary, our judges agonised over this depiction of “cruelty”. Is this wanton violence; should we suppress it because of the poor baby monkey’s lot? Or should we stay the course we chose 31 years ago to also reflect harsh reality? And that, dear reader, is why we chose this image – because the emotional rollercoaster it sparks in our minds leads to a better understanding of how nature works.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“While following a pride of lions in Zimanga Private Game Reserve early one morning, I noticed something attracted the young male lion’s attention, and I followed his gaze. He had noticed that a young vervet monkey had wandered away from the troop, foraging on the ground in dense vegetation. The vervets were oblivious to the predator, and he made his move. The noise of his hastened approach alerted the mother, and she turned to rescue her baby. Lion and mother arrived together, and opportunistically the lion turned his attention to the desperate mother. In trying to save her baby, she paid the ultimate price for her maternal instinct.”

About photographer Hendri Venter

Hendri Venter is a photographic guide at Zimanga Private Game Reserve in South Africa. He has always been enchanted by wildlife and the natural world. Growing up on a farm, he enjoyed spending time with its seemingly endless expanse of wildlife. Exploring nature by horseback and by foot, he formed a strong sense of appreciation and amazement for all things natural. He enjoys taking images that capture the endless ebb and flow of nature.

Instagram: @hendriventer

Children entertain themselves beneath towering Grandidier’s baobabs – the tree giants of Madagascar, which grow up to 25 metres tall. Western Madagascar. © Aimin Chen

Judges’ comment:

The juxtaposition of these massive Grandidier’s baobabs and the playing children makes for a telling story. The kids belong to parents that sell their wares to tourists that come to wonder at the baobabs. Without tourism money, those trees will likely go the way of much of Madagascar’s natural vegetation, and the rural villagers would have fewer livelihood options. This is one of Africa’s most compelling stories – the bond between biodiversity, local people and tourists.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“The photo was taken in August 2018. The name ‘baobab’ is derived from an Arabic term meaning ‘seed-bearing fruit’. As it takes seven years for a small tree to grow only 50cm high, some of the oldest baobabs with thick trunks are regarded as holy trees. Many people come to the trees to pray for children, money, good fortune and illness. In Madagascar, locals regard the baobab tree as sacred, and it is known as the ‘tree of life’.”

About photographer Aimin Chen

Aimin Chen is an independent photographer who spends much of her time focusing on field photography. Aimin has always loved the life and culture of Africa and hopes to continue to record more wonders of the world with her camera.

After standing statue-like for the longest moment, a shoebill makes the attack and captures a marbled lungfish. A satisfying moment for the photographer: “When the shoebill catches a fish in front of you, you will never forget that action.” Mabamba Swamp, Uganda. © Guenther Kieberger

Judges’ comment:

You can wait for hours while the dinosaur of birds patiently monitors a lungfish breathing hole on a floating raft of papyrus reeds. And then, nothing. Or, your patience might be rewarded with a brief glimpse of a kill – and a blurry photographic memento. Rarely do you capture the perfect shot of predator and prey. That makes this an exceptional capture worth celebrating.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“The prehistoric-looking shoebill is an iconic bird in Uganda. My dream of photographing this bird in its natural environment led me to Entebbe. I travelled with the guide and boatman on a wooden dinghy to Mabamba Swamp, where we found one bird standing in the swamp vegetation. Our boatman was able to manoeuvre the dinghy into the ideal spot to capture the photo. But the hard work was yet to begin: we were waiting for the bird to hunt. This can take hours, as shoebills – too heavy to chase their prey – stand still for long periods, waiting for unsuspecting creatures to swim close by. But after a long wait, the bird suddenly made an attack, catching a large lungfish – grabbing a beak full of swampy vegetation in the process. It is magical to share this moment with others. What an extraordinary bird!”

About photographer Guenther Kieberger

Guenther Kieberger hails from Austria. He picked up his passion for wildlife photography ten years ago. Working as a cameraman on wildlife documentaries, he travels to many destinations on adventures around the world. His photos have been widely published in books and magazines. His photographic pursuits centre around identifying specific wildlife subjects to capture and focusing solely on the species in question throughout a photographic trip. Sharing these images with people who cannot experience these moments for themselves brings him joy.

The herd brings the drama as it arrives at a spring to drink. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Jens Cullmann

Judges’ comment:

If you have experienced the oppressive heat and enveloping, suffocating dust at the peak of the African dry season, you will live this capture with every cell in your body. The desperate search for water is written on every face as this pathfinder leads her herd to the natural spring.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“For the past ten years, I have spent a few months a year in northern Zimbabwe, where, in untouched wilderness, one can still watch nature’s dramas unfold. In 2021, at the end of the dry season, I spent a couple of weeks at Chitake Springs in the interior of Mana Pools National Park. With dwindling food sources, soaring temperatures up to 45°C, and the daily need to drink, the buffalo were drawn to whatever water remained. I was on foot when I captured this image as the herd of buffalo arrived at the spring. Given the dynamics and unpredictability of the encounters, there is always a lot to consider when in these situations!”

About photographer Jens Cullman

Jens Cullman was born in Nuremberg, Germany, in 1969. His introduction to photography was at age 13, when he received his first camera. As a teenager, he worked with black-and-white film and image developing until he was able to acquire more sophisticated equipment. During a trip to Namibia and Botswana in 2003, Jens’ passion for wildlife photography really ignited, and he has grown in stature since then. He has won several prestigious international awards. Jens was the winner of the Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year 2020 and a runner-up in the 2019 competition. He uses his photography to create awareness about conservation issues and preserving natural habitats.

Instagram: @jens_cullmann
Website: jenscullmann.de

A chimpanzee peers up at a commotion of cascading fruit, urine and branches falling from overhead. Just like the photographer, he seems concerned he may be the target. Kibale National Park, Uganda. © Johan Siggesson

Judges’ comment:

A brilliant capture of the moment when a mere glance becomes a ponder, a calculation even. Our genetic similarities aside, this image forces us to recognise another great ape as sentient and thoughtful.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“After two unforgettable gorilla treks in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, the next step on the expedition was visiting Kibale National Park to see the chimpanzees. We found a large family group and stayed with them for some time. We were able to observe the many different personalities in the group. Some were shy and skittish, whilst others were bold. We came across this individual who was very comfortable in our presence. I felt privileged to be accepted in his presence. Some of the other family members in the group were still in the trees above, and, just like me, this chimp was regularly looking up, seemingly worried that he would be the target of fruit, urine and branches falling from the trees above.”

About photographer Johan Siggesson

Johan, an award-winning wildlife photographer, was born in Sweden. Since 2001 he has lived on the small Mediterranean island of Malta, where he recently published his first book, on the island’s wild orchids. He regularly guides photographic tours around the world. After his first safari to Kenya in 2012, he took up wildlife photography full-time. Since then, he has had great success in prestigious international photography competitions. More recently, he was appointed as a Fellow of the Malta Institute of Professional Photography and an elected member of the Swedish Association for Nature Photographers. In his new home country of Malta, a keen interest in nature is not woven into the island’s culture, nor is it a priority in politics. With both his local and international work, Johan hopes to raise awareness and appreciation for the natural world that we are all part of.

Instagram: @johan_siggesson_photo
Facebook: @johansiggessonphotography
Website: www.johansiggesson.com

Gently symmetry. An underground hide provides the opportunity to see eye-to-eye with a pair of endangered reticulated giraffes, elegant aquiline muzzles brushing the mineral-rich red earth of the salt lick. Ol Jogi Wildlife Conservancy, Laikipia, Kenya. © Julian Asher

Judges’ comment:

What goes where, and who owns what? A bit of fun as we are forced to concentrate for longer than the usual glance at our busy mobile phone feeds.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“I’ve always been struck by the sense of calm projected by giraffes, and there was something almost meditative about the concentration of these two, and the demure sweep of their lashes and slow grace of their long velvet noses as they nuzzled the soil – as if they were savouring the moment. I chose my angle and held my breath as their heads moved ever closer, and they continued to brush against the earth – until they finally attained a fleeting moment of symmetry.”

About photographer Julian Asher

Born in San Francisco and currently based in London, Julian Asher has lived in cities around the world, including New York, Zurich, Berlin, and Cape Town. Julian is an award-winning photographer who will go to great lengths in the name of the perfect shot, including being duct-taped into a doorless helicopter over the Okavango Delta in Botswana. The risks have paid off – his work has won multiple awards and has been exhibited at the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History in Washington, DC. As a photographer, Julian focuses primarily on wildlife and wild places – with a particular interest in predators and their behaviour and in indigenous peoples and their traditions. He spends several months a year in the field in Africa, Asia, and Latin America. He enjoys sharing his love of the natural world by leading photography workshops and planning safaris as the founder of Timeless Africa, a triple-bottom-line sustainable travel company. Julian serves on the boards of several Africa-focused NGOs centring on conservation and education.

Instagram: @pictusafrica
Website: http://www.timelessafrica.com/

A leopard sneaks in under the fence line of Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate. Hoedspruit, South Africa. © Owen Gröbler

Judges’ comment:

This leopard sliding under the electric fence of a residential wildlife estate on the outskirts of a bushveld town is a sensational illustration of peri-urban leopard survival and cunning. It’s also a sad depiction of a wild creature “navigating between two prison cells”, as one Facebook observer commented.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“The leopardess captured in this image has been the primary subject of a peri-urban leopard identification project that I started over three years ago. Her territory includes a disturbed landscape with a large human presence. Despite this, she has found a way to survive while evading our detection almost entirely and has successfully raised at least three litters of cubs to independence. I was determined to capture an image which showcased her remarkable versatility, so I set out to look for her, day after day, night after night. After almost two years of failed attempts, fortuitous circumstances finally intervened. On a late afternoon game drive, my wife and I spotted the leopardess and one of her cubs outside the perimeter fence line. I reversed the vehicle to a respectful distance and cut the engine. Though these leopards are hypersensitive to human presence, I was certain they had a kill on the wildlife estate, so they would need to enter underneath the electric fence. I waited until the mother leopard emerged from the roadside thickets and effortlessly slid underneath the electric fence. I witnessed the leopard’s mellifluous motion through my camera’s viewfinder as the firing shutter captured her attention. Then the cub swiftly followed her mother. Now, this resilient peri-urban leopard’s story is known by many.”

About photographer Owen Gröbler

Owen is an aspiring conservation photographer based in South Africa, with a desire to highlight the challenges faced by tenacious peri-urban leopards in the Greater Kruger region. Owen has published a coffee table book, Searching for spots, about the leopards he has monitored through the duration of a leopard identification project he runs on Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate. His goal is to improve people’s mindsets toward human-predator co-existence and encourage the protection of the natural habitat. Although Owen has a deep love for leopards, he is a nature enthusiast who enjoys birding and the challenges that wildlife photography presents. Travelling to wild spaces and capturing unique moments is where he feels most at home.

Instagram: @a_bush_Owen

Website: www.searchingforspots.com

After a long hot December day near Punda Maria Rest Camp, an elephant calf rests at its mother’s feet. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Ilna Booyens

Judges’ comment:

Mom’s massive foot gently cradling her tiny baby seems to curve around that delicate ear. A touching, tender moment that so defines elephants and makes us want to spend time with them.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“This photo was taken during a visit to Kruger National Park in December 2021. It was a scorching day near Punda Maria when we spotted a large herd of elephants making their way down to the river to quench their thirst and cool off in the water. One female elephant was not interested in joining the fun and was just standing still. At first, I thought she was injured or sick, but as we drove closer, I noticed her tiny calf resting peacefully at her feet in the shade that she provided. An epitome of a mother’s love and protection of her little one.”

About photographer Ilna Booyens

Ilna Booyens is an award-winning wildlife photographer whose work has been featured in numerous publications. She has always been drawn to the bushveld’s sights, sounds, and smells. Her passion for wildlife photography started in 2015 when she was gifted with a camera. She enjoys the connection developed with the natural world when photographing its wonders. Ilna spends as much time as possible in the bushveld, testing her patience and perseverance by braving extreme weather conditions and driving for hours to find the perfect subject.

Instagram: @booyensilna

THIS WEEK

Pemba Island, Tanzania. Find the best prices for this and other inspirational camps & lodges in our app.

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Photo finalists ? + rhino-horn trade + gorilla trekking

Announcing… ??the finalists for Photographer of the Year??. After much deliberation over the past few weeks, we’ve narrowed down 7,389 submissions to 44 truly exceptional images. Kick-start your weekend with an endorphin rush as you indulge in these marvellous images.

The scourge of rhino poaching has policymakers seeking creative solutions. In 2021, discussions on rhino-horn trade were floated by Barbara Creecy’s High-Level Panel – sparking highly polarised debate. Would the farming of rhinos prevent illegal trade in wild rhino horn? In our third story below, we examine the research into the preferences of the actual consumers of rhino horn – which has a significant bearing on the potential impact of legalising the trade in rhino horn.

Happy indulging in Africa to you all!

Taryn van Jaarsveld — Editor

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Did you know that rhinos make squealing noises like cetaceans (dolphins and whales)? Rhinos of all ages use this whine to communicate, though it is especially adorable when the youngsters do it. If you don’t believe me, follow the link to enjoy an enchanting pair of rhino calves squealing for their lunch.

It’s cute, right?

Over 100 rhinos have been massacred in Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park in South Africa in just five months. We could debate the merits of trade (see our story below) in circles for eternity and would likely never reach a consensus, but we are running out of time to act. South Africa’s rhinos are vanishing in front of our eyes. Though if Minister Creecy is to be believed, it is simply increased anti-poaching measures in Kruger (and not dwindling rhino numbers) that has sent poachers scurrying to Kwa-Zulu Natal …

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-finalists-gallery-1/
FINALISTS GALLERY 1
The final round of Photographer of the Year 2022 is here! Check out our 1st gallery of finalists

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-finalists-gallery-2/
FINALISTS GALLERY 2
The top images for Photographer of the Year have been chosen. Check out the 2nd gallery of finalists

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/farmed-vs-wild-rhino-horn-what-the-research-tells-us/
RHINO HORN
Does farming of rhinos prevent illegal trade in wild rhino horn? Research into consumer preferences sheds light on the rhino-horn trade. Club members only

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

The BEST VALUE in the Maasai Mara right now? Our 6-day safari at the intimate Enkewa Camp in the southeastern Maasai Mara ecosystem. This eco-friendly camp is owner run, so expect attention to detail and a homely feel – ideal for singles, couples and groups seeking to recharge their batteries and enjoy traditional Kenyan hospitality.

MOUNTAIN GORILLA TREKKING is the ultimate bucket-list choice amongst our safari clients. We have our popular 3-day gorilla trekking safari in Rwanda for the time-pressured traveller. Prices are excellent, even more so for SADC tourists. It’s time to tick this one off your list …

WATCH: Five minutes of calm – explore South Africa’s forest beneath the waves. Many algal forests are in decline due to warming oceans. But along South Africa’s coastline, the 1,200km-long Great African Sea Forest still thrives (05:02). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2022 Finalists – Gallery 1

Here are the finalists in our 2022 Photographer of the Year! We will announce the overall winner and two runners-up in the beginning of June. They will share US$10 000 in prize money and join their partners and our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.

This is Gallery 1 of the finalists. To see the other Photographer of the Year top finalists, click below:
Photographer of the Year 2022 Finalists – Gallery 2

Photographer of the Year is Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Cleansing with smoke and heat. A Samburu mother invites a photographer in to witness the daily rite of disinfecting a milk container with smoke. Waso, Kenya. © Bob Chiu

Photographer of the Year 2022 Finalists – Gallery 2

This is Gallery 2 of the finalists. To see the other Photographer of the Year top finalists, click below:
Photographer of the Year 2022 Finalists – Gallery 1

Photographer of the Year is Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

An anti-poaching ranger touches a rhino skull in Namibia. The rhino had been shot, but escaped its pursuers and died with horns intact. The horns were removed by Namibian authorities when the body was found, but the remains of the rhino were left where they lay. Namibia. © Marcus Westberg

After a long hot December day near Punda Maria Rest Camp, an elephant calf takes a rest at its mother’s feet. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Ilna Booyens

Farmed vs wild rhino horn – what the research tells us

As conservationists and rangers work around the clock to protect Africa’s rhinos, scientists on the other side of the globe are attempting to unravel different aspects of the trade: including the perspectives and market preferences from actual consumers of rhino horn. Do these consumers prefer the horn of a wild rhino over that of a “farmed” or captive rhino? The answer to this question has a significant bearing on the potential impact of legalising the trade in rhino horn.

Rhino populations in Africa continue their dizzying decline due to poaching. The Kruger National Park – a protected area in South Africa where populations were once thriving – for example, has experienced a 75% decline in population numbers in the past 10 years. Conservation circles are locked in a fierce debate on whether legalising the horn trade would save these iconic animals or be the instrument of their final destruction. (A complete summary of the nuances of this debate can be found here: Rhino horn trade – yes or no.) The success or failure of a controlled trade strategy will depend on several factors, including how the market develops if legal restrictions are removed. This is a complex question involving everything from economics to sociology, and it is almost impossible to predict accurately.

THIS WEEK

Wish you were here? Savute, Botswana. Contact one of our safari consultants and describe your perfect holiday.

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Of mammoths & tuskers + fantastical Madagascar + horny toads

Why is transparency SO DIFFICULT for some? The info-gathering journey for my follow-up below was an interesting one. Our usual network of information brokers performed well, as usual – thanks to every one of you. And also a SHOUT OUT to Nyambe Nyambe of KAZA who was courteous and professional in fielding teamAG questions about elephant trophy hunting. BUT

Our attempts to determine THE FACTS from the trophy hunting industry about this particular Botswana tusker hunt were met with petulance, insults, smoke and mirrors. We are used to this from a minority of loud individuals within the industry – water off a duck’s back – but from representative body officers? I won’t repeat what is included in the notes below my op-ed (or stoop to their levels of personal and brandAG attacks), but I will say that the LACK OF dignity, professional courtesy and foresight exhibited by the representative body for Botswana trophy hunters will come back to haunt them. Hopefully, the ethical members from within that body will one day exorcise the rot.

I will be enjoying a 4-day mountain biking sojourn deep in the northern Kruger National Park as you read this, with other bushveld junkies. SAFARI NJEMA my friends

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

We will soon be revealing the finalists, and shortly thereafter, WINNERS of Photographer of the Year. Our team of judges is deeply immersed in a cauldron of contemplation, giving each pic in our Top 101 galleries due deliberation. Watch this space!

Will Africa’s great tuskers face the same fate as the now-extinct woolly mammoths? A few weeks ago we broke the news that two of Botswana’s largest tuskers were trophy hunted. This week, Simon delves into the great debate following this fallout, and spotlights the threat this brings to community wealth, an important wildlife corridor and tusker survival. See our first story below.

Madagascar – the fantastical land of plenty – is a natural evolutionary playground and a human kaleidoscope of cultural influences. For those seeking spiny forests, elegant sifakas, ring-tailed lemurs and desert canyons, south and central Madland is just the ticket. Read more in our second story.

Happy celebrating Africa to you all!

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Science is a serious business. The business of publishing in scientific journals even more so. This is why I find brief glimpses of humour so profoundly refreshing. Along with fun taxonomic names, tongue-in-cheek article titles are right up my alley.

Take my most recent read, entitled “Finding love in a hopeless place”. It’s about frogs. More specifically, it is about desperate frogs. Did you know that during their chaotic breeding seasons, male frogs will grab almost anything in the hope that it’s a female? When this approach goes wrong, it is called misdirected amplexus (amplexus describing the Anuran mating position). These love-struck amphibians have been known to clasp boots, carcasses and pythons.

Given that the Bufonidae were well represented in this research, I can think of at least one alternative title that would have worked just as well. Though it probably wouldn’t have made it past the reviewers…If you think you know what I was thinking (or have a better idea), why not share it in our club comments section?

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/how-much-to-kill-a-woolly-mammoth/
HUNTING TUSKERS
The trophy hunting of 2 of Botswana’s largest tuskers threatens community wealth, a wildlife corridor & tusker survival. By Simon Espley

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/south-and-central-madagascar-wondrous-wildlife/
ANCIENT ADVENTURES
South & central Madagascar is popular with tourists for spiny forests, elegant sifakas, ring-tailed lemurs & desert canyons

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

A rare find indeed – affordability in the birthplace of walking safaris. This well-priced safari is a must for those seeking true wilderness and expert walking guides. Expect excellent game viewing (did someone say LEOPARDS?) and tracking on foot, plus epic bush breakfasts and unforgettable sundowners. Unwind, detox and let 5 days in remote Africa recharge your batteries.

And then there is this – 19 days in paradise – Greater Kruger, Cape Town & the Winelands, Khwai, Chobe and Victoria Falls. From bush to beach, Pinotage to predators and the biggest curtain of falling water in the world, this epic safari showcases the best that southern Africa has to offer.

WATCH: Your feel good fix for the week! Watch two rangers rescue an exhausted honey badger, trapped in the base of a marula tree (04:01). Click here to watch

How much to kill a woolly mammoth?

The debate after we broke the story on the trophy hunting of two of Africa’s largest tuskers in Botswana has focussed on the ethical issues surrounding trophy hunting, and rightfully so. Should humans be permitted to kill animals for fun? And then there is the potential threat to big-tusker genes of selectively removing these giants from the breeding pool.

But for this post, I focus on three other issues that go to the core of trophy hunting, and hunting elephants, as a conservation tool:

1. FAIR VALUE

The trophy hunter paid at least US$80,000 for the ‘pleasure’ of killing this giant elephant*. Is this ‘fair value’ for one of a diminishing population of large-tusked elephants (tuskers)?

The questioning of fair value is essential. For example, what would the modern-day trophy hunter pay TODAY to kill a woolly mammoth – how many millions of USD? Because in 20 years, that will be a relevant comparison – these giant elephants are the woolly mammoth of today, and their slide into oblivion is surely a concern.

2. ADEQUATE COMPENSATION – RURAL COMMUNITIES

We have been advised that the Tcheku Community Trust, on whose land (NG13) this tusker was killed, was paid BWP200,000 (about US$16,285) for this elephant hunt – by a company called Old Man’s Pan Propriety Limited.

The company is owned by professional hunter Leon Kachelhoffer and Derek Brink – one of Botswana’s wealthiest men. So let’s be clear about this. Two wealthy individuals generate a massive 500% return on this giant elephant – and an entire community has to survive on the scraps.

Obviously I do not speak for this community (based in an area where protein sources are likely scarce) – who may appreciate an estimated minimum 600kg of elephant meat that such a hunt could produce. However, of concern is that our request to BWPA (see below) and Kachelhoffer for evidence – photos – that the meat was given to community members was refused. Also, suggesting that the supposed meat provision is a substitute for the cash they should have earned is insulting – the ultimate slap in the face for these desperate people. Do they know what this elephant was really worth?

The community trust’s total elephant allocation for the year is five elephants – all purchased in advance by Kachelhoffer and Brink. Seeing how little the community benefited from the killing of one of Africa’s largest tuskers, I would imagine that their revenue expectations for the remainder of the year are pretty grim.

This is nothing more and nothing less than the syphoning off of rural community wealth by hardened wealthy businessmen.

Is this the true face of Botswana’s much-acclaimed ‘sustainable’ trophy hunting strategy? In May 2019, Botswana’s President Masisi justified the decision to recommence trophy hunting by emphasising that local communities will be guaranteed far more than just menial jobs and will enjoy the economic benefits of sustainable wildlife management. I have no conceptual issue with controlled, sustainable hunting in areas where photo tourism fears to tread – because Africa’s people HAVE to be incentivised to have wild animals in their midst. Otherwise, we will end up like much of the ‘developed’ world – devoid of free-roaming wildlife. But is this how President Masisi envisaged involving impoverished, marginalised communities in the wildlife industry? Is this particular scenario fair to the good people of Botswana, or even sustainable – surely not!

3. MIGRATING ELEPHANTS

And what about the rural people in neighbouring countries – how do they benefit from this once-off event?

After all, this giant elephant was an international wanderer who would undoubtedly have paid his way via many photographic appearances over the years in the nearby (in roaming bull elephant terms) popular tourist areas of the Okavango Delta, Chobe, Caprivi, Victoria Falls and Hwange – to name a few.

On the topic of international elephant migration routes, we approached Nyambe Nyambe, executive director of Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA), for feedback about trophy hunting elephants in elephant migration routes and the possibility of this creating ‘fear zones’ which hinder migration away from human-elephant conflict areas. One of KAZA’s aims is to enable elephant migration away from human-elephant conflict zones.

Nyambe pointed out that KAZA partner states consider trophy hunting a component of the wildlife economy. But he also said, “Partner States have imposed moratoriums on trophy hunting in particular areas of KAZA for purposes of rebuilding the populations alongside strengthening other conservation measures…”

Why then does Botswana create a new controlled trophy hunting area out of NG13 – which is slap bang in the elephant-migration corridor? On the face of it, this seems contrary to the underlying KAZA strategy to create safe migration corridors and alleviate human-elephant conflict.

Nyambe pointed out that KAZA cannot prevent partner states from going against the spirit of the partnership: “Any potential negative effects that could arise from efforts towards sustainable use (not just from hunting) will be duly investigated to mitigate any unplanned or negative impacts,” but KAZA does not take up issues with partner states, and rather relies on partner states to “engage with other or a particular partner state in the event of a concern.”

On the subject of fear zones, Nyambe suggested that my concerns are noted but probably overstated because trophy hunting does not occur across the entire wildlife dispersal area.

PARTING THOUGHTS

Botswana, and any other country, has the sovereign right to decide their own way forward when it comes to conservation issues such as these. And their focus on local people as beneficiaries of the wildlife industries is justified and necessary.

But surely Botswana can do better than this? Permitting a few privileged individuals to benefit at the expense of desperate rural communities is going to end badly – for Batswana and for their wildlife and ecosystems.

The trophy hunting industry is incapable of self-regulation and has never been transparent about its dealings. The authorities need to step in and enforce better transparency and accountability. They need to ensure a better distribution of wealth for Botswana’s rural people, better mitigation of human-wildlife conflict and a more sustainable offtake of genetically gifted animals that are now so popular as mantelpiece adornments.

* Notes

a) Three separate sources advised us that the minimum price for this sized elephant was US$80,000 to US$100,000

b) Our request to professional hunter Leon Kachelhoffer for information about the hunt proceeds, NG13 environmental management plan, license tender process and other specifics was initially met with assurances of cooperation, but he suspended discussions shortly after that. We were subsequently sent a letter by Kachelhoffer’s fellow Botswana Wildlife Producers Association committee members. The letter provided generic notes about elephant hunting and how the elephant was located in the vast NG13 but did not provide the requested information mentioned above. This lack of transparency is, unfortunately, par for the course. In a bitter, strongly worded follow-up letter, the BWPA advised us that they would not be responding to future requests for information.

South and central Madagascar

This time we adventure to southern and central Madagascar, in our four-part series on this wondrous island. See the resources section at the end of this story for the other three stories in the series.

South and central Madagascar

Madagascar’s ancient geography – shaped by volcanic forces and tectonic tearing – consists of a rather thin band of coastline, the massive central plateau and several massifs scattered across the island. The eastern section is lush and green, watered by Indian Ocean trade winds and with the forested escarpment descending in a series of steep steps to the rugged coastline. Further west, the arid highlands and grasslands of central Madagascar are riven by stark desert canyons. The weather becomes even drier as the land slopes gently to the island’s southern tip, giving way to the strange and formidable plants of the Tolkienesque spiny forests.

The southern circuit of Madagascar is more popular with tourists and includes two of the island’s most famous parks: Ranomafana and Isalo National Parks. Away from the main holidaymaker routes, the south-central highlands offer a vast but intimidating adventure for intrepid and experienced explorers. However, the more circumspect traveller will find these more accessible destinations provide a great fill of Madagascar’s wondrous wildlife and sublime scenery.

South and central Madagascar — Diademed sifaka

Ranomafana National Park

Situated on the precipitous slopes of the High Plateau, the forests of one of Madagascar’s largest national parks cover an area of around 416km² (41,600 hectares). The name comes from the Malagasy term for ‘hot springs’ (‘rano’ meaning water and ‘mafana’ meaning warm), in which visitors can soak aching muscles after hiking the undulating and sometimes strenuous trails. Ranomafana and Berenty Private Reserve (see below) are absolute musts when visiting this part of Madagascar. The park is part of the Rainforests of the Atsinanana UNESCO World Heritage Site – a serial property composed of six national parks protecting relict forests along the eastern strip of Madagascar and known for their exceptional biodiversity. The other five parks are Masoala National Park, Marojejy National Park, Zahamena National Park, Andringitra National Park, and Andohahela National Park.

Ranomafana owes its existence to Dr Patricia Wright and her discovery of the golden bamboo lemur in 1986. This prompted the authorities to declare the region a national park and helped save the dwindling populations of one of the most unusual primates in the world. As a result, the critically endangered golden bamboo lemur is probably the park’s star character. Their main claim to fame is that they are the only primate specialising in a bamboo diet (chimpanzees and gorillas eat bamboo, but it does not form the basis of their diets). No one fully understands how they process the enormous quantities of cyanide present in the bamboo shoots’ soft stalks and growing tips. Experts estimate that they ingest approximately 50 times the lethal dose for a similarly sized mammal every day.

Apart from the cyanide guzzling golden bamboo lemurs, Ranomafana is home to many other lemur species, including the eastern woolly lemur, eastern grey bamboo lemur, red-bellied lemur, greater bamboo lemur, black-and-white lemur, red-fronted brown lemur, ruffed lemur, small-toothed sportive lemur, and the Milne-Edwards sifaka. The bushbaby-like mouse lemurs are undoubtedly the forest’s cutest offering – emerging at night with the eerie aye-ayes (for fortunate travellers) to take advantage of the plethora of insect life. Ayes-ayes are most easily seen near Tamatave.

Madagascar is an incredible birding destination, with at least five endemic bird families: vangas, ground-rollers, cuckoo rollers, Malagasy warblers and mesites. Though the forests (and birding opportunities) of Ranomafana are similar to those of Andasibe-Mantadia, Ranomafana offers the best chance to spot (among others) the yellow-bellied sunbird-asity, the cryptic warbler, and Madagascan snipe. Of course, this being Madagascar, the reptiles (especially chameleons) are many and varied, and the waterways and forest paths are dotted with colourful little frogs. The aptly named giraffe-necked weevils are another Madagascan endemic – a peculiar insect with an elongated neck designed for nest building and fighting off rivals.

Isalo National Park

Delving further into Madagascar’s interior, the 815km² (81,500 hectares) Isalo National Park is a world apart from the tropical rainforests of the east. Hot and dry though it may be, Isalo is one of Madagascar’s busiest parks for a reason. The views are different every day, with shifting shadows and changing colours creating a living work of art as the sun moves across the sky. Isalo boasts wooded ravines, idyllic pools like “Piscine Naturelle”, and incredible flora. The park is also very close to the main road.

Isalo is often described as Madagascar’s equivalent of the Grand Canyon, though this is probably a slight overstatement. Regardless, the scenery is not dissimilar to Arizona’s in the US, complete with dramatic canyons and colourful sandstone ridges. The sweeping panoramas can be explored across several different hikes ranging from a few hours to several days in duration. Some magnificent trails also descend into the sclerophyllous (hard leaved, drought-adapted) woodlands of the gorges to arrive at limpid pools where visitors can refresh body and soul.

Here tourists delight in the antics of the park’s ring-tailed lemurs. They’re unlikely to bust out any dance moves or speak with Sasha Baron Cohen’s inexplicable Indian accent like DreamWorks’s famous (mis)representation, but these black and white lemurs are equally sassy. From the endemic and distinctive elephant’s foot (which looks a bit like a bulbous bonsai baobab) to several native species of aloe, the plant life is unique and fascinating. Recent studies indicate that the park is home to 24 different amphibian species, 47 reptiles, and over 100 different bird species have been recorded in Isalo.

All this said, seeing birds and mammals in Isalo can be tricky. An excellent birding option is Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park, where expert bird guides will delight you with incredible sightings of giant couas, cuckoo-rollers, the highly restricted Appert’s greenbul and myriad non-venomous snakes and endearing chameleons.

Clockwise from top left: Giant-striped mongoose; giraffe-necked weevil; red fody; yellow-bellied asity; long-tailed ground roller

Tsimanampetsotsa National Park

No discussion of southern Madagascar would be complete without mentioning the island’s seemingly inhospitable but enthralling spiny forests (cover image above). Situated in the south-western corner of Madagascar, the 432km² (43,200 hectares) Tsimanampetsotsa National Park lies in the driest part of the country and protects a section of this unique ecoregion. This is a difficult area to access, but it is not impossible – you can catch a boat to Anakao from Toliara and then a four-wheel-drive or open truck tour from Anakao to the park. The park can only be accessed by road. One has to wonder at the various pronunciations of the name local taxibrousse (a Malagasy bush taxi) drivers must have heard from eager tourists. Tsimanampetsotsa takes its name from Lake Tsimanampetsotsa – the “lake in which no dolphins live”. There are indeed no dolphins in the salty waters, but at certain times of the year (April-November), the alkaline lake is covered in a pink flush of greater and lesser flamingos.

Tsimanampetsotsa is also home to one of the rarest carnivorans in the world: the Grandidier’s mongoose (also known as the giant-striped mongoose or Grandidier’s vontsira). As playful and bold as any mongoose species, they are commonly seen at campsites searching for scraps. They are not found anywhere else on the island.

Away from the sacred salt lake and associated wetlands, the landscape changes to the sparse dry woodlands that define the ecoregion of southern Madagascar. The region boasts exceptionally high levels of plant endemism, with an estimated 95% of plant species classified as endemic. These include the unmistakable octopus trees (Didierea madagascariensis) – a kind of woody semi-succulent not dissimilar to a cactus. They sport enormous and vicious-looking thorns, but this does little to deter the groups of critically endangered Verreaux’s sifaka from clambering and leaping between them. With their profoundly disproportionate limbs, these sifakas are designed for arboreal life, and when moving across the ground, they are forced to do a two-legged canter on their back legs, with arms thrust out to the side for balance.

Scattered within the dry forest plant life are the brooding outlines of ancient, squat baobabs. Known as fony (sacred) baobabs (Adansonia rubrostipa), these trees are fascinating ecosystems in their own right. An ancient baobab, nicknamed the “Grandmother” (or “Mother of the Forest”), has recently been revealed to consist of three different, fused trees: one 200 years old, one 1,000 years old and the oldest being 1,600 years old. The roadrunner-like long-tailed ground-roller dashes around at the base of these trees, its wings lined by bright blue streaks. In the Mitoho Grotto, a hidden cave, blind sleeper goby fish still swim the freshwater pools, isolated forever. Here, fossils bear testament to a time when giant lemurs the size of small gorillas once roamed.

One need not travel to Tsimanampetsotsa if it is a little out of the way and time is limited. A few kilometres north of Toliara, in the Ifaty area, there are great lodges, a reef, guides and bird guides that will show you Didierea and baobabs along with all the bird endemics the area has to offer.

Berenty Reserve

On the banks of the Mandrare River, the small private Berenty Reserve also protects around a third of Madagascar’s remaining tamarind gallery forest. It is a popular destination for visitors looking for close encounters of the lemur kind – ring-tailed lemurs are the true stars of Berenty. Lucky visitors might be treated to a sighting of a Verreaux’s sifaka’s “dancing” movements. Other great fauna to look out for in Berenty include Dumeril’s boa, Madagascar flying fox, sickle-billed vangas and running coua.

The ins and outs of exploring southern Madagascar

Want to go on safari? to Madagascar? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

Madagascar’s tropical climate is typically enjoyable all year round. However, the wet season and tropical cyclones during the summer (November to March) can make Ranomafana National Park inaccessible. The cooler dry season from April until October alleviates the worst of the oppressive heat, which is particularly important when exploring the island’s central highlands or southernmost tip where temperatures regularly exceed 35–40˚C. You will need just over two weeks to explore this part of Madagascar.

There are plenty of budget and camping opportunities in or near all of the major parks, but luxury accommodation is relatively sparse. An exploration of Madagascar is often a rough and ready experience. It is advisable to travel in Madagascar with a reputable company, but hiring a car to drive between the various attractions is possible. The roads are bad, particularly during the wet season, and a 4×4 is essential. Parts of the central plateau are dangerous to travel through, and it is advisable not to travel alone without being well informed.

Land of plenty

Madagascar is a fantastical land – a natural evolutionary playground and a human kaleidoscope of cultural influences. Remarkable, offbeat, and enticing, this magical island offers an intoxicating combination of unique wildlife viewing and magnificent scenery. There is far more to Madagascar than our series could ever hope to convey, but there is no question that it is a country with something to offer every nature enthusiast. Our travel consultants are always on standby to help you plan the Madagascan holiday of your dreams.

The rainforest of Ranomafana National Park

Want to plan your safari? Get in touch with our travel team to start the discussion.

Enquire now

Check out our preferred camps & lodges for the best prices, browse our famous packages for experience-based safaris and search for our current special offers.

Resources

Northern Madagascar

Eastern Madagascar

Western Madagascar

Lemurs of Madagascar

Fossa: Five fascinating facts

Madagascar photo gallery

Photographers

Alistair Marsh’s photography can be seen and purchased from www.alastairmarsh.co.uk

THIS WEEK

I see you. Okavango Delta, Botswana. 2019 Photographer of the Year entrant Clare Doolan

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Top 101 photos + leopard Hosana’s death + Kaokoland’s Himba

The southern hemisphere autumn chill has nothing on the incandescence emitting from AG’s Photographer of the Year 2022. The competition is hotting up, and we’ve selected the Top 101 entries (from a whopping total of 7,389 submissions!) for the year. Our winners are somewhere in these four galleries below.

Hosana, famous leopard of Sabi Sand, has been killed. News of the leopard’s untimely death evoked an outpouring of emotion on social media. Sabi Sand has subsequently issued another statement defending the APU’s actions, stating “there is exponentially more at play here than meets the eye,” and that this “isolated incident is in fact a miniscule fraction of a much bigger picture”. Sadly, further details are unforthcoming. The facts we do know so far are contained in Jamie’s balanced and heartfelt reflection on the incident and Hosana’s life, in our first story below.

In our second story, anthropologist Izzy Sasada delves deep into the challenges facing Kaokoland’s Himba people, reflecting on how climate change and marginalisation are forcing Namibia’s iconic tribe towards modernity.

On a brighter note, safari season is upon us! Check out the hundreds of options we have for travel across the continent – it’s not too late to plan your 2022 travels.

Happy indulging in Africa to you all!

Taryn van Jaarsveld — Editor

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Did you know that leopards sometimes fall asleep while hunting? Admittedly, no one else I have spoken to has ever witnessed something similar, and my sample size for this fact is one leopard. His name was Hosana, and I was watching him hunt impalas. He was still relatively young, and I think he might have been trying to learn from past failed hunts, which he had messed up with an overeager approach.

He was crouched in the grass, watching the herd gradually moving towards him. It was one of those gloriously warm autumn days, and the antelope were in no hurry. When the moment finally arrived for him to launch an attack, nothing happened. Still nothing happened when one of them stepped just two metres away from his head. And then the impalas were gone, and I took a closer look. Hosana had dozed off, blissfully unaware that his lunch had just wandered away.

This was just one of the memories running through my mind as I wrote our first story below.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/hosana-famous-sabi-sand-leopard-killed-under-tragic-circumstances/
HOSANA KILLED
Well-known leopard Hosana of Sabi Sand has been killed in self-defence by an anti-poaching unit – our scientific editor’s take

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/himba-a-people-in-transition/
NAMIBIA’S HIMBA
The Himba people navigate an uncertain, modernising world affected by climate change and marginalisation

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-top-101-gallery-1/
TOP 101 – GALLERY 1
The next round of Photographer of the Year 2022 is here! Check out Gallery 1 of the Top 101.

Story 4
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-top-101-gallery-2/
TOP 101 – GALLERY 2
Gallery 2, featuring standout images from Photographer of the Year. Entries are now closed.

Story 5
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-top-101-gallery-3/
TOP 101 – GALLERY 3
Competition is hotting up in our 2022 selection! Check out some of the top entries in Gallery 3.

Story 6
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-top-101-gallery-4/
TOP 101 – GALLERY 4
Photographer of the Year overall winners will be announced in late May. See some of the Top 101 entries in Gallery 4.

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

The BEST VALUE in the Maasai Mara right now is this 6-day safari at the intimate Enkewa Camp in the southeastern Maasai Mara ecosystem. This eco-friendly camp is owner run, so expect attention to detail and a homely feel – ideal for singles, couples and groups seeking to recharge their batteries and enjoy traditional Kenyan hospitality.

And, for the lovers of art, we have one place left on this popular art safari in Manyeleti Game Reserve in the Greater Kruger. This last place is for ladies only because you will share your room with another lady. Join professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls, who will share advice and tips in the field and back in camp.

Wildlife viewing is excellent – Manyeleti boasts regular sightings of the Big 5 (lion, leopard, rhino, elephant, buffalo) and other species such as zebra, hippo and giraffe, and predators such as cheetah, hyena and African wild dogs, which are regularly encountered.

WATCH: Longing for a new experience, for an escape? Retreat to the makhani palm forests of Kaokoland, Namibia, to refresh the soul. Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp is a magical, cosy lodge on the Kunene River, where you’ll experience the culture of Namibia’s iconic tribe, the Himba people (02:30). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2022 Top 101 – Gallery 4

Here are the Top 101 entries in our 2022 Photographer of the Year! We will announce the overall winner and two runners-up in the beginning of June. They will share US$10 000 in prize money and join their partners and our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.

This is Gallery 4 of the Top 101. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 101 galleries, click below:

Gallery 1
Gallery 2
Gallery 3

Photographer of the Year is Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

A dramatic crossing of the Mara River. Serengeti National Park, Tanzania. © Artur Stankiewicz

Photographer of the Year 2022 Top 101 – Gallery 3

This is Gallery 3 of the Top 101. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 101 galleries, click below:

Gallery 1
Gallery 2
Gallery 4

Photographer of the Year is Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Photographer of the Year 2022 Top 101 – Gallery 2

This is Gallery 2 of the Top 101. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 101 galleries, click below:

Gallery 1
Gallery 3
Gallery 4

Photographer of the Year is Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Photographer of the Year 2022 Top 101 – Gallery 1

This is Gallery 1 of the Top 101. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 101 galleries, click below:
Gallery 2
Gallery 3
Gallery 4

Photographer of the Year is Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

The Himba – a people in transition

Deep in the heart of Kaokaland in the Namibian desert live the Himba people – a group of semi-nomadic pastoralists who have lived there for hundreds of years. But climate change, combined with a lack of government support and ongoing marginalisation, is forcing this iconic tribe to choose which parts of modernity to claim, and which to reject.

Namibia’s iconic tribe

If you are familiar with any of Africa’s tribal groups, it is probably the Himba. The tribe are renowned for their unique adornments and their continued adherence to tradition. Women of the tribe are bare-breasted and heavily decorated with symbolic jewellery. They cover their bodies with ‘otjize’, a mixture of animal fat and ochre which gives their skin and hair a reddish hue.

Traditionally, these cattle-herding tribes live in wooden huts which encircle a sacred ancestral fire, and daily work revolves around rearing and herding livestock.

The Himba people have long avoided contact with the modern world, continuing their quiet lives of pastoral cattle-herding in the barren corner of north-western Namibia for generations. The region had no direct Western influence until well into the 20th century, and little is known about the inhabitants of Kaokoland before the first European expeditions in the remote area.

Consequently, the Himba people have often been presented (in particular in recent tourism brochures) as timeless and archaic, representing a ‘forgotten’ or ‘ancient’ age of Africa.

The Himba - a people in transition — A traditional Himba village near Epupa Falls

A foot in each world

Whilst presented as isolated from the modern world, in reality, many Himba people are now moving towards modernity. As the tribe is in transition, Himba culture is not static nor homogenous, and while some aspects of their lifestyle are being left behind, new opportunities await those moving from the barren desert to towns.

For those members of the tribe keen to take the plunge, the nearest town is Opuwo, the capital of the Kunene region. The small settlement contains schools, shops and petrol stations, and for many newcomers, it is the first taste of life in the 21st century.

For an unfamiliar traveller, it is indeed a sight. The town is a melting pot of Namibia’s other tribes too, and large groups converge on the streets of Opuwo, drinking beer, chatting on mobile phones, and gathering in their dozens. Seen alongside the Himba tribe are the Herero people, known for their extravagant Victorian-style dresses, and also members of the Zemba group.

Push factors

Compared to traditional living, life in towns such as Opuwo may seem more convenient, but in reality, there are more push than pull factors causing people to move from rural homesteads.

Mr Ondoba, a Himba traditional chief whose original homestead is 180km north of Opuwo, explains why his family has made the journey south. “Life has become far harder for us in recent years,” he says. Sitting in the shade of one of Opuwo’s many bars, he has a miniature spear tucked behind his ear which he uses to snort ground tobacco between sentences. “We lost all of our cattle to drought a few years ago, and that’s why we’re here. Life without cattle – it is impossible.”

Mr Ondoba now owns a small garden in Opuwo to harvest maize and other plants. While he and his family have enough to survive, his current lifestyle is a far cry from that established in the historic practice of cattle-herding.

The loss of cattle makes it practically impossible for traditional life to continue, as cattle are the basis for subsistence; the need to graze cattle has dictated the Himba’s nomadic way of life for hundreds of years. Cattle have cultural significance too, determining social status, and forming an integral part of marriage and dowries.

Many other Himba residents in Opuwo share a similar story to Mr Ondoba. Down the street, sisters Veerii and Ondu sit on the hard floor, drinking beer. They, likewise, have moved to Opuwo in recent years. “Before, in Onjuva [a homestead about an hour’s drive away] things were better for us. We could live easily. But our cattle were taken – we think by a lion, and we could not stay.”

Namibia’s Community Based Natural Resource Management (CBNRM) programme provides compensation when livestock is lost to predators through the human-wildlife conflict compensation scheme. But it appears the scheme’s efforts are proving inadequate for many.

According to Dr Michael Bollig, an anthropologist who has conducted extensive fieldwork in the Kunene region, the human-wildlife conflict compensation is a “cumbersome process, whereby the conditions are nonsensical.”

“Compensation is a tricky business,” he explains, “conservancy budgets are often too small to adequately compensate for lost livestock, and local communities do not have the administrative infrastructure right away to compensate for this pertinent issue – how could they?’

“Resultantly, compensation is returned at a quarter of the market price for cattle, sometimes after far too great of a waiting time, and the management is so complicated that very few are successful.”

Veerii and her sister’s experience supports this. “We knew we were on a list waiting for compensation, but we never received the money.” Veerii explains, “if the government helped us just by providing say two or three goats, we could rebuild our livestock and we would not have to beg here.”

Livestock loss is exacerbated by extreme droughts which have plagued the region in recent years. Some scientists believe these extreme conditions to be linked to climate change. As global temperatures are set to rise further in the coming decades, the situation in Kunene reflects the general global trend of climate change impacting socio-economically vulnerable groups, from countries that have contributed the least to global emissions.

New problems

For all their hopes of a new life in Opuwo, things are perhaps a disappointment for many Himba people who have made the move. Life in a town requires money, and it is difficult for newcomers to find employment. Many Himba people now survive from the government’s pension scheme, often with one person’s pension handout providing for the entire family.

In homestead Otjakati, just an hour’s drive from Opuwo, life is far quieter. Here, the elders worry about the fate of those looking for employment in towns.

‘”They leave looking for a job, but they won’t find one. Even the most educated Himba won’t get a job,” one of the elders explains. “Then, they turn to things like drinking and end up spending all of the money on alcohol, and then the problems start, like crime and prostitution.”

Alcoholism certainly appears to be a problem amongst Himba urbanites, and the streets of Opuwo are lined with numerous bars.

Discrimination, and favouritism towards dominant tribes are felt to be reasons why few Himba people attain employment. “Most Himba cannot even get a sweeping job,” Ueri tells me, “people think we are dirty.”

A tribe in transition

The world for the Himba people is changing. With inadequate compensation when cattle are lost to predators, exacerbated by an increased frequency of droughts, it is likely that more Himbas will be forced towards towns like Opuwo in search of employment.

Anthropologist and conservation pioneer Margie Jacobson, who has spent decades conducting fieldwork with the Himba tribe, explains how this move is impacting the group.

“Whilst they continued to be great subsistence herders for generations after contact with so-called ‘modernity’,” she says, “now their social systems are beginning to erode.”

“Now,” she explains, “those… democratic and powerful structures are breaking down. With the introduction of euro-centric education, party politics, wage labour and a cash economy, in many cases, every man is for himself.”

Recent research also indicates a loss of indigenous knowledge as Himba people move to towns, with cosmopolitan Himbas experiencing a reduced ability to focus during optical tests than their pastoral counterparts (much like urban people who also exhibit this reduced ability to focus).

Although the Himba people now face a plethora of previously unfamiliar problems as the modern world encroaches upon them, their historical resilience in the face of change should give us hope. Culture is not static, and the Himba should not be perceived as fossilised relics of a past time.

And why shouldn’t they enter the ‘modern’ world?

“The Himba are people,” says Margie, “they want the things that we want, and they have every right to them.”

Asking the elders at Otjakato “where will you be in 20 years’ time?” they assert in response, “we will still be in the homestead, where we belong… but of course, we will visit Opuwo.”

Note: some names have been changed.

Resources

To see images of Himba culture, view a photo series captured by travel photographer Matthieu Rivart.

For insight into Himba traditions and history, read more here.

For travellers hoping to experience the traditional culture of the Himba people, Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp hosts guided visits to a Himba village in the Epupa area (proceeds contribute to care packages for the village). This lodge in the heart of Kaokoland is based on the perennial Kunene River.

Hosana, famous Sabi Sand leopard, killed under tragic circumstances

The message on our group chat read, “Guys, just reading now that Hosana has been killed”. It was followed by a screenshot of the official announcement from the Sabi Sand Wildtuin social media account (the official social media account of Sabi Sand Game Reserve) confirming that a male leopard had been killed by an anti-poaching unit acting in self-defence. The statement, released on Friday, 6 May 2022, notes a “strong likelihood that the leopard was the Hosana male” – a leopard made famous by the Wild Earth live safaris that had followed his story since birth. I have known him since he was born, as I was guiding in Sabi Sand at the time.

Hosana – the legend

Hosana has been in the spotlight since he was only a few hours old. He was born in Djuma Private Game Reserve in the Sabi Sand Game Reserve (Greater Kruger) on the 2nd of February 2016. We know this because footage of him and his sister, Xongile, was broadcast across the globe during a live safari only a few hours after his birth. His mother, Karula, was a legend in her own right and an extremely confiding cat, even when tracked on foot. She allowed us untold hours of access to her cubs, and we watched with joy from the vehicles as they slowly transformed from tiny, clumsy balls of fluff to miniature versions of the lithe predators they were destined to become.

We realised that Karula was sufficiently comfortable for us to approach her and the cubs on foot, though we never pushed her boundaries by trying to get too close. Hosana and Xongile became increasingly accustomed to these strange bipedal interlopers, initially curious but eventually ignoring us. We would sit on the ground and watch two wild leopard cubs play, and I would have to pinch myself occasionally at the magic of it all. He was named Hosana – meaning “the little chief” – and he became famous.

Karula was getting older and eventually disappeared in 2017, just after the cubs turned a year old. Xongile vanished shortly afterwards, following a savage fight with her older sister. Suddenly alone in the world, Hosana had to face independence far sooner than he was ready for, and we watched his struggles with bated breath as the Little Chief learnt to survive.

Against all odds, he did survive and, in so doing, won the hearts of the thousands of people who watched his transformation from bumbling teenager hunting terrapins to a skilled predator. He regularly waltzed through the camp, often in broad daylight, drank from the swimming pool, and occasionally came and looked through the windows of my room. One of the last times I saw Hosana, he was sleeping peacefully 15 metres away from where I was standing. He was three years old and dispersed shortly after that.

We watched from afar like proud mother hens as Hosana filled out, gained a few new scars and eventually established his territory and began siring cubs.

The incident

On Friday, 6 May 2022, the Sabi Sand Wildtuin social media pages released a statement confirming that an adult male leopard, believed to be Hosana, had “ambushed” an anti-poaching unit (APU) patrolling a drainage line at dusk. They “responded in self-defence resulting in the leopard losing its life”. Africa Geographic immediately reached out to the Sabi Sand authorities to request further information about the date of the incident and a detailed explanation of the circumstances that led to the leopard’s death. AG also asked for images to confirm that the leopard was, as the statement suggested, Hosana. AG had not yet received a response at the time of publication but will update this article as and when one is forthcoming. None of our other sources were able to confirm conclusively that the leopard was Hosana (through images). However, we can safely assume that it was Hosana as the Sabi Sand authorities would not have invited the inevitable outcry without cause.

The unfortunate use of the word “ambushed” was a poor choice and seemed to imply that Hosana set out to do deliberate harm to the APU. Of course, leopards can and do hunt people on rare occasions (and assuming the leopard wouldn’t hurt people just because it was Hosana is anthropomorphism at its worst). Perhaps this was precisely what happened, but such opportunistic attacks on people are unusual. It seems highly unlikely that Hosana would target a group, especially given his history of being tracked on foot.

The first statement noted that “a full investigation” had been carried out, and it was concluded that all safety protocols were adhered to. However, a second statement was issued on 8th May, stating that the Sabi Sand authorities had conducted “preliminary investigations”, “will be engaging further with the contracted Anti Poaching Unit”, and “are conducting a full investigation”. They confirm that a more detailed statement will be forthcoming.

Bravery in the face of danger

Speculation is inevitable without knowing the exact details of how it all played out (and the conspiracy theories that spring up are almost impressive). We do not know the circumstances – the leopard may have been sick, injured, mating or defending a kill. The APU may have been moving very silently (as would be expected during an anti-poaching patrol) and surprised him. However, we can say that the APU must have believed that he posed a real and immediate threat to their safety. These men and women risk their lives to protect our continent’s most endangered animals, and we cannot vilify their reaction in the heat of the moment. They work under considerable pressure and in perilous circumstances. That was not Hosana the beloved leopard to them – it was an animal capable of killing a person with relative ease and speed.

No matter how special that leopard was to so many, a leopard’s life cannot be valued above an anti-poaching team’s safety. Their work in protecting the region’s rhinos and other endangered species and searching for and clearing snares is vital and requires enormous bravery. When patrolling the bushveld on foot, there is always a risk of encountering a potentially deadly animal, and things can go wrong quickly. Just a few days before the announcement about Hosana, 36-year old Shando Mathebula was killed by a buffalo while carrying out his duties as a field ranger in the Kruger National Park. By virtue of the nature of their work, APUs are forced to move quietly at risky times of the day, increasing their chances of a lethal encounter. It could have been an elephant, hippo, lion, or buffalo, but in this case, it was Hosana.

A tragic combination of circumstance

We are not able to comment on what wildlife training the APU in question had received. However, a full-blown leopard warning charge is a genuinely terrifying thing, and it requires preparation and training to face it down and then extricate oneself safely. It can be explosive, loud and fast. This incident does emphasise the importance of training those who operate in the field to handle wildlife encounters – both for their safety and that of the animals they meet in the line of duty. There may be circumstances where there is no option but to shoot an animal to save lives, but it should always be the last resort.

If the leopard in question is Hosana, he was cut down in his prime. This is an absolute tragedy. I mourn for the leopard we knew and loved – a goofball who treated us to endless hours of both hilarious antics and fascinating leopard behaviour. We learned so much from him about leopard life, and I am so profoundly grateful for having had the opportunity to watch him grow. To me, and to so many, he was a special cat, and while he would never have known it, he changed a fair few lives for the better. His clumsy insouciance was undeniably endearing, his resilience heartening. After everything he survived, it is deeply upsetting for those who knew him that he died in this way.

In loving memory of Hosana, 2016 – 2022

I cannot find it in my heart to blame the actions of the APU, though I do not doubt that they are currently being dragged through the mud on various platforms. I hope that lessons were learnt and that his death was not entirely in vain.

I am sorry, Hosana, for how things ended. You inspired a love of Africa and her creatures in people of every generation across the world, and I hope that when the grief is less raw, your legacy will continue to drive that passion and bring people together. I donated to a rehabilitation and anti-poaching organisation in your memory because, to me, you were the essence of the wild, and now, more than ever, the wild needs our support.

Rest in peace, Little Chief.

Want to send your tributes to Hosana? Join the club to share your memories and tributes below. Learn how below this story.

Resources

Read about Hukumuri, another leopard made famous by live safaris, who died last year.

Read more about leopard behaviour here.

THIS WEEK

The setting sun spotlights a herd of elephants in Botswana’s Okavango Delta. Photographer of the Year 2019 entrant.

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Last epic photo entries + best spots to see leopard + the swallow songstress

The hairy rock fig tree is again dripping with delicious ripe figs, and our bushveld garden is the centre of attention for frugivores seeking that energy fix. Green pigeons, black-collared barbets, grey go-away-birds and other feathered beauties are jostling for the spoils during the day, and epauletted fruit bats and woodland dormice are amongst the nighttime partygoers. OK, this exciting news (for us) does not rock the world like Elon Musk buying Twitter or Depp suing Heard for US$50m – but it’s all relative. Right? Enjoy your own personal relativity – it’s free and all around you. Seriously.

In other local news, the onset of the dry winter months sees queleas begin to flock like locusts and the thinning out bushveld means that we now hear more roaring lions and whooping hyenas during the dark hours. The morning air has a chill to it, and that morning dose of pressed coffee goes down like a home-sick mole 🙂

This is also the start of the safari season – a busy time for teamAG (loving it) – and our clients are out there having fun, learning stuff and making a difference. Safari njema!

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

I’m a bit giddy this week as the final entries for Photographer of the Year are now in. We had so many extraordinary pics in our last round of submissions that we’ve put together two jam-packed galleries for you.

Our entrants this week have scoured under-explored corners of the continent. I’m particularly taken with the photos of Sahara wanderers, Sebeïba ceremonies, and Algeria’s ancient Hoggar Mountains. Omar Dib’s images invoke echoes of spiritualism past and ethereal glimpses into the present. Also not to be missed is some otherworldly underwater photography. There’s plenty to satisfy the wildlife cravings too, including a black leopard photographed in the dead of night in Laikipia. Check out our two galleries below.

In our story, you’ll also spot a black leopard – and tips on where to find one – which will likely serve as a reference for your leopard-seeking adventures for years to come. We’ve compiled a list of our seven favourite leopard-viewing destinations for (almost) guaranteed sightings. So read on and let the adventures begin!

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Did you know that female songbirds sing? Goodness Jamie, I hear you exclaim, of course they do! That is patently obvious to anyone who has ever spent more than five minutes watching a member of the enormous Passeri (songbird) clade.

And yet, scientists only just recently confirmed that female barn swallows (one of the most researched bird species on the planet) like a good ditty as much as their male companions. How did this come to be? It comes down to research bias, and the authors of the resulting paper explain it best themselves. However, one of their conclusions is that “men [the predominant researchers] are significantly less likely than women to lead research projects studying female song”. Of course, the reverse is true in some cases. For instance, we are only just beginning to understand the role of bull elephants in herd memory, behaviour and demographics.

Biases aside, the female birdsong revelation also shows that sometimes a disconnect can develop between science and the bleedin’ obvious.

Story 1
EPIC PHOTOS 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-13-gallery-1/
One of two galleries featuring our Week 13 Photographer of the Year selection – our last round of entries – filled with award-worthy submissions celebrating Africa. Final judging will take place through the month of May

Story 2
EPIC PHOTOS 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-13-gallery-2/
The second gallery of our Week 13 selection – our last round of entries – chock-a-block with extraordinary Photographer of the Year entries. Winners will be announced at the end of May

Story 3
SPOTTING LEOPARDS
https://africageographic.com/stories/the-7-best-places-to-see-leopards-in-africa/
Want to see leopards on your next safari? Here are the 7 top destinations for seeing this elusive member of the Big 5

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

We have a few places left on our 2023 photographer-guided safari to the wild Chitake Springs (Mana Pools, Zimbabwe). The safari sold out within hours of going live on our website, so we opened a second slot for those that missed out. We will not be adding further slots for 2023 because the authorities restrict volumes – for good reason. Last chance to reserve your place on this epic safari!
– Here is why you need to go on this safari
– Check out the details here

JUST DO IT

For the pursuit of culinary delights and Big 5 safari heaven, there is this: Bush & beach, Pinotage to predators – South Africa – 12 days. You know you want to

OR, DESCRIBE YOUR IDEAL SAFARI and we will hand-craft it

WATCH: In the coming weeks, billions of newly spawned sardines will flank the coast of South Africa. The frenzy of pursuant predators will produce a spectacle followed by hundreds of marine enthusiasts. See what the Sardine Run fuss is all about (03:04). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 13 – Gallery 2

Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.

Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here is Gallery 2 of the best submissions for this week.

Exit downstage left. Children play outside the Hotel Mahazatra in Antananarivo. Madagascar. © Aimen Chen

Living still life. A Natal forest treefrog (*Leptopelis natalensis*) sits for its portrait. Kenneth Steinbank Nature Reserve, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. © Hendrik Louw

An impressive leopard surveys his forest kingdom. Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania. © Hannah Strand

Surefooted mountain dweller. The endangered Walia ibex is found only in the mountains of Ethiopia. Simien Mountains National Park, Ethiopia. © Hesté de Beer

A young, curious and restless pangolin takes an interest in its photographer. Mozambique. © Jo Taylor

A cheetah cub in joyful full trot. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Willie van Schalkwyk

Sunrise captured from Assekrem hermitage. At 2,726 metres high, the early 20th century hermitage overlooking the Hoggar Mountains once served as a retreat for Frenchman Charles de Foucaut, who spent the last years of his life studying Tuareg language and culture. Ahaggar National Park, Algeria. © Omar Dib

A tapestry of red-billed queleas takes flight. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Prelena Soma Owen

A black mamba takes shelter from a snake eagle. Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana. © Sara Jenner

Dance macabre. A lioness drags a zebra carcass away after having her fill. The photographer had the opportunity to follow the pride during three days of feeding. On the third day, this lioness dragged the remaining carcass away into a site between tall grasses. Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana. © Silvia Ribeiro

Sandy anemones (*Aulactinia reynaudi*), found in shallow coastal waters around southern Africa, are dependant on tidal and wave action to bring oxygen and nutrients. When there is not enough “fresh” water, the anemones close up. But when their pools are full of water, a bright festival of colour ensues. False Bay, South Africa. © Geo Cloete

I’ve got you covered. A cheetah mother and her sub-adult cub take a quiet but vigilant rest. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Willie van Schalkwyk

After standing statue-like for the longest of moments, a shoebill makes the attack and captures a marbled lungfish. A satisfying moment for the photographer: “When the shoebill catches a fish in front of you, you will never forget that action.” Mabamba Swamp, Uganda. © Guenther Kieberger

After the successful kill, the shoebill gulps plenty of water, washing down its fish prey. Mabamba Swamp, Uganda. © Guenther Kieberger

Portrait of a frenzied and ferocious sugar ant. Capturing an image of this busy ant was a challenge for the photographer, who was pleased with the focused and striking result. Frankfort, Free State, South Africa. © Dawie Broekman

A young man practises his dancing during the annual Sebeïba ceremony in the oasis of Djanet. Male dancers and female singers represent their communities during the rituals held in the first month of the Islamic lunar calendar. “The Touaregs have celebrated this event every year for more than 3000 years. This picture shows one of the children dancing like a man… and learning how to protect this national heritage of Algeria.” Djanet, Algeria. © Omar Dib

In a rare moment of tranquility amidst the angry ocean and the treacherous rugged west coast of South Africa, the stars align. The photographer had tried for years to capture a magical occasion of calm depicting the life apparent in the intertidal zones and rock pools. “I had to work as fast as possible to capture all the photos required for this panorama whilst staying well alert.” Western Cape, South Africa. © Geo Cloete

Friendly fire. Not all interactions between the usually sociable Cape weavers are amicable. When real estate and resources are tight, those stepping out are reminded to toe the line. Langebaan, South Africa. © Geo Cloete

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 13 – Gallery 1

Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here is Gallery 1 of the best submissions for this week.

Static trapeze. A young mountain gorilla hones its climbing skills. Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda. © Daniel Walther

In an unusual occurrence, small fish evade the tentacles of a smack of South African box jellyfish (*Carybdea branchi*), which in this case did not appear to be hunting the fish. “I was able to observe both for a while and none of the fish were caught,” says the photographer, who speculates this may be a rare case of commensalism – with the small fish possibly taking refuge between the tentacles. Cape Town, South Africa. © Geo Cloete

Great expectations. A serval kitten tests the boundaries of its agility as mom keeps a watchful eye. © Andrea Castelli

Floating water. A sunbird demonstrates a preference for water from a leaking pipe, mere metres from the Saloum River. Sokone, Senegal. © Cecile Terrasse

Imminent inquisition. A boomslang on the hunt in Mokala National Park. South Africa. © Chris de Billot

The persistence of memory. A mountain gorilla idly watches over his family, appearing to be deep in thought. Virunga National Park, Democratic Republic of Congo. © Christy Bennie

“Though she be but little, she is fierce”. A barking gecko fights back after facing the fate imposed by a juvenile pale chanting goshawk. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Willie van Schalkwyk

Big smooches. A tender moment between a black-backed jackal and its pup. Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Botswana. © Danielle Carstens

A minute yet radiant grass fly dazzles. Frankfort, Free State, South Africa. © Dawie Broekman

Mighty things from small beginnings grow. A *Baryphas* jumping spider scans her surroundings from the perches of a fallen yellow leaf. Frankfort, Free State, South Africa. © Dawie Broekman

A pangolin rescued from the illegal trade photographed while undergoing rehabilitation. The pangolin will be released back into the wild once the rehabilitation is complete. South Africa. © Dominic Cruz

A colony of purple soft coral (*Alcyonium fauri*) – 4mm organisms made up of polyps with eight arms each – extend their arms to feed. Here, one polyp can be seen retracting all of its arms to its mouth after catching food. Cape Town, South Africa. © Geo Cloete

Warm words with a Sahara wanderer. Nomads of Algeria once travelled the desert in great numbers. Today the rovers of this ever-changing landscape have been reduced to small groups, scattered across the harsh sandy terrain. “I met this nomad in the heart of the desert. He smiled through our entire meeting. I asked if I can photograph him and share these images, and was so happy when he accepted.” Tamanrasset, Algeria. © Omar Dib

A pygmy goose launches off the Chobe River. Chobe National Park, Botswana. © Danielle Carstens

An ostrich, rudely interrupted during her dust bath, leaps into retreat after being startled by a predator. Namibia. © Vicki Santello

A desert-adapted lioness, collared for scientific research, strides across the harsh landscape. Namibia. © Vicki Santello

Burning inversion. The morning light bursts through the silhouettes of baobabs. Kubu island, Makgadikgadi, Botswana. © Simone Osborne

The 7 best places to see leopards in Africa

There are many reasons why leopards are at the top of African safari request lists. Breathtakingly beautiful, charismatic, powerful, elusive, mysterious, and endlessly unpredictable – no one adjective can fully capture the wild essence of these impressive cats. Whether draped lazily across a tree bough or concealing themselves for a slow stalk and decisive pounce, no one leopard sighting is ever the same. We’ve compiled a list of our favourite leopard viewing destinations for (almost) guaranteed sightings.

Want to go on a leopard-seeking safari? Browse our African safaris on offer here.

1. The Greater Kruger, South Africa

This corner of South Africa is famous for its spectacular leopard encounters, especially in the southern regions of the Greater Kruger, where leopard densities are at their highest. Private reserves like Sabi Sands Game Reserve have a long history of leopard habituation, and the leopards here are probably the most relaxed on the continent. The guides and trackers in these areas are intimately familiar with the territories and movements of their spotted comrades and will provide a background (and even lineage) of the individuals seen.

2. South Luangwa National Park, Zambia

Vying with the Greater Kruger for the highest leopard densities on the continent, South Luangwa National Park is a haven for these elegant cats. The verdant floodplains, oxbow lakes, and riverine forests along the Luangwa River – the region’s lifeblood – are perfect pardine territory. Guests are regularly treated to multiple leopard sightings in a day.

3. Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana

The wetlands, grasslands, and thickets of the Okavango Delta teem with wildlife and predators abound in this rich wilderness. While animal viewing in Moremi Game Reserve is typically at its best during the dry season, wild dog and leopard sightings are the norm year-round.

4. Samburu National Park, Kenya

Unofficially designated as the leopard capital of Kenya, arid and dramatic Samburu’s rocky outcrops and striking riverine trees provide perfect vantage points where leopards can strike the typical photographic pose. And with Samburu being somewhat off the beaten African safari track, chances are you won’t have to share your sighting with a crowd of eager tourists.

5. The Mara-Serengeti Ecosystem, Kenya and Tanzania

Leopard densities in the Mara-Serengeti Ecosystem are high, and, like our first four destinations, a sighting of at least one individual is all but guaranteed. However, what sets this region apart is the magnificent scenery, which has the potential to change the entire character of a sighting. Instead of lurking in the thickets, the leopards of Mara-Serengeti are often obliged to move in the open or through tall grassland. The sight of a leopard dwarfed by the sheer scale of the expansive Maasai Mara or renowned Serengeti is not easily forgotten. Throw in typical leopard unpredictability and the chaos of the Great Migration, and the scene is set for genuinely extraordinary and action-packed encounters.

6. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa & Botswana

With their effortless beauty, leopards are suited to almost any setting but are perhaps most breath-taking against the ochre and gold palette of the Kalahari Desert. Naturally, the leopard population here occurs at lower densities, and sightings are not necessarily a given. However, the sparse vegetation works to the advantage of eagle-eyed visitors.

7. Laikipia County, Kenya

Laikipia County is one for the leopard connoisseur – those fortunate enough to have travelled and filled many a memory card with pictures of leopards from around the continent. The county, and Loisaba Conservancy, in particular, has recently found social media acclaim with the revelation that it is home to unusual black leopards. These mysterious cats have a rare genetic mutation that results in melanism and are believed to be more common in forested areas where their atypical colouring works to hide them in the shadows. Of course, they are elusive, and there are no guarantees – but isn’t anticipation half the fun of an African safari?

Special mention: Nyika National Park, Malawi

Malawi’s concerted conservation efforts have borne exceptional biodiversity and resulted in a nascent tourism industry offering singular safari experiences. Nyika National Park extends across the vast Nyika Plateau, an enormous granitic dome over 2000 metres above sea level. The rolling hills are home to the highest density of leopards in Malawi, and while the secretive cats are still somewhat shy, sightings are becoming increasingly common, particularly at night. The positive feedback loop of growing numbers of tourists supplementing conservation funding has gone a long way to securing the future of one of Africa’s most unique wildernesses.

Resources

To support leopard conservation, check out, the The Cape Leopard Trust and the Mara Predator Conservation Programme.

Leopard enthusiasts – now’s your time to shine. Tell us about your favourite leopard destination.

THIS WEEK

Can you feel it? That safari feeling. For the best prices login to our app

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Last chance + Tarangire’s migration + farewell to super tusker Tolstoy

Last chance …

This is the FINAL COUNT DOWN for entries to our immeasurably inspirational Photographer of the Year. Entries close in two days, and then my amazing team starts to sift through the weekly selections for the nuggets. US$10,000 and an epic Botswana safari on offer for the winners!

MEANWHILE, the South African Minister of Environment (et al.) has been instructed by the courts to pause her plans to issue trophy hunting quotas for leopards, black rhinos and elephants. In my op-ed of a few months ago, I bemoaned her application of suspect ‘science’ in her decision-making processes – and that’s precisely what the courts have decided. She failed to provide the requisite scientific evidence that such hunts would not be detrimental to the species, amongst other shortcomings. Watch this space for counter-measures by the trophy hunting industry and retabling of the quotas.

Surely it’s time for real science and demonstrable benefits to local people to be the primary parameters in these critical decisions and for political wrangling to exit backstage?

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

In ANOTHER BLOW to Africa’s dwindling population of giant elephants, Amboseli super tusker Tolstoy has died, six weeks after being treated for a spear wound. We celebrate the life of this iconic, majestic elephant in our second story below.

This week we had a really tough time narrowing down the excellent entries for our Photographer of the Year Week 12 selection. This gallery is one of our best yet – so grab a coffee and take a moment to browse and be inspired by some incredible moments captured around the continent. See the gallery below.

As a member of the AG tribe you are naturally familiar with the Great Migration. But another often forgotten national park in northern Tanzania offers a similar and no less sensational experience: the Tarangire Migration. Tarangire National Park is a mecca for wildlife enthusiasts. Every year during the dry season, the Tarangire River becomes one of the only available sources of water, and tens of thousands of animals are drawn to its banks. Read more about the true romance offered on safari in this national park, in our first story below.

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

The 27th of April was World Hyena Day, and while I have personally always found World Something Days a bit trite, I can never resist the urge to share a fun fact about my favourite animal.

There is a very persistent misconception (twisted from dated research) that spotted hyena cubs are the Cain and Abel of the animal kingdom – committing siblicide on a regular basis. Did you know that this is largely utter nonsense? Yes, hyena cubs are born with fully erupted teeth, and they will squabble to establish dominance during their first few weeks. During times of resource shortages, this hierarchy may translate to facultative siblicide because the dominant sibling outcompetes its submissive sibling for access to milk – but such instances are rare.

Given their already poor reputation, it seems unfair to suggest that spotted hyenas are born with such murderous instincts. Sibling bonds in hyenas are strong, and, for twin sisters, in particular, they may last a lifetime.

Story 1
MAGNIFICENT TARANGIRE
https://africageographic.com/stories/tarangire-national-park/
Tarangire National Park’s amazing scenery, giant baobabs and abundance of wildlife make for the perfect safari

Story 2
LOSING TOLSTOY
https://africageographic.com/stories/iconic-super-tusker-tolstoy-dies-in-amboseli/
Amboseli super tusker Tolstoy (51) has died, six weeks after being treated for a spear wound

Story 3
INCREDIBLE PICS
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-12/
Browse our Week 12 Photographer of the Year entries. Last chance to enter and win!

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

DESERT & DELTA – 11 days
This iconic and ever-popular safari is about water – or the lack thereof. We visit Victoria Falls, Okavango Delta, Chobe and the desolate salt pans in our quest to understand how water defines southern Africa’s wild places. Options for all budgets.

WALKING WITH GIANTS – 13 days
Join us in Kenya’s Tsavo National Park as we follow the wise old elephant herds over an 80km walking route along the Galana River and onwards by vehicle to the Indian Ocean coast at Malindi. We hope to see huge elephant tuskers, the famous Tsavo maneless lions, rare hirola and fringe-eared oryx, the long-necked gerenuk and many of the over 500 bird species. This is an authentic safari – from a bygone era!

WATCH: This ghost town in Namibia is haunted by a rare creature. Watch how elusive brown hyenas have made a home in the Namib Desert ruins (03:14). Click here to watch

Iconic Amboseli super tusker Tolstoy dies

Iconic super tusker Tolstoy dies in Amboseli — Tolstoy pictured in front of Mt Kilimanjaro

Tolstoy, the Amboseli super tusker, has died at the age of 51, just weeks after being treated for a spear wound.

Tolstoy was speared in his right front leg six weeks ago, likely by a farmer defending his crops from one of the tusker’s night-time crop-raids, according to Big Life Foundation. He was treated by joint Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS)/David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust (DSWT) mobile veterinary units at the time, and the teams continued to monitor him following the treatment.

On the morning of his death on 27 April, rangers in Kimana Sanctuary (the central part of a corridor linking Amboseli National Park and Chyulu Hills) who had been checking on Tolstoy every morning and evening since the initial treatment, found him lying down. While it was not unusual for him to lie down, on closer inspection the rangers found that he was struggling to get up.

“Following another treatment, the rescue team spent hours trying to get him back on his feet, eventually trying to prop him up with a front-end loader,” says BLF’s Jeremy Goss. “But this time around, he was just too weak, and died lying there.”

The combined efforts of thirty people from KWS, DSWT, and BLF, one helicopter, four vehicles, the front-end loader, and the best veterinary medicine possible was not enough to prevent Tolstoy from succumbing to his injury.

Tolstoy was a member of the prolific TD family of super tuskers, and survived multiple spear wounds and drought over the years. He was uncle to Amboseli’s famous elephant, Tim, who died in 2020 at the age of 50. The two were often seen together and maintained a kinship throughout their lives. Tolstoy’s mother, Teresia, was the matriarch and leader of the TD family, known for her long, straight tusks. “The males born to the TD family have all been magnificent and each one has had a calm and gentle personality,” according to Amboseli Trust for Elephants. “Tim and Tolstoy had many friends among the independent males and were much admired by the females.” Tolstoy’s tusks were once so long that they grazed the ground as he walked. But the lower portion of his tusks were sawn off by Kenya Wildlife Service in an attempt to relieve him of extra baggage – an action which was criticised by some at the time.

“Tolstoy was one of the few elephants in Africa with thick tusks that grazed the ground,” according to Elephant Voices. “To the world he was a super tusker. To us, he was Tolstoy, an elephant who came up through the ranks over the course of the time we have worked in Amboseli – from a calf in a well-known family, to a role model to younger males and a father to many of Amboseli’s younger elephants.”

One of Kenya’s much-loved elephant elders and ultimately a victim of human-wildlife conflict, Tolstoy was well known by conservationists for his calm nature. The spear wound that led to his death was the fourth spearing incident he suffered in as many years. “The case of Tolstoy is a reminder that there is still a lot of work to be done and this will not be able to continue without financial support and the support from the communities who must reckon with Tolstoy and his like on a daily basis, especially with regards to land subdivision,” says BLF’s Josh Clay.

Land subdivision plans have been completed for areas in the Amboseli ecosystem, whereby one million acres have been divided into tens of thousands of privately owned plots. It is essential that communities and conservation organisations work together in creating land-use plans that take into account the needs of both humans and wildlife to prevent similar incidents of conflict in the future.

Tolstoy was a familiar sight in and around Amboseli (photos courtesy @ryan.wilkie.photos)

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 12

Our Photographer of the Year 2022 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.

We are open for entries from 1 February 2022 to midnight on 30 April 2022. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2022, and the winners will be announced end May 2022.

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week

Tiptoeing on the clouds. A crab spider considers the white roses of a quiet suburban garden. Centurion, South Africa. © Hendrik Louw

Lioness and cubs in the aureate morning light of the Maasai Mara National Reserve. Kenya. © Alex Brackx

Knock, knock, anybody home? A rock monitor emerges from an unproductive stakeout in the bowels of a tree stump. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Leshalabe Matlala

Gotcha! Serval in flight. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Andreas Hemb

The wind ruffles the fur of a large gelada, exaggerating its large and intimidating appearance. Simien Mountains National Park, Ethiopia. © Pepe Arespacochaga

A picture-perfect lioness at the golden hour. Liuwa Plain National Park, Zambia. © Andrew Macdonald

Portrait of a Kilimanjaro mustard baboon spider – a feisty, old-world tarantula. Ruiru, Kenya. © Robin James Backhouse

A black-maned Kalahari lion surveys everything the light touches. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Anja Denker

A bickering blowout between two hooded vultures, squabbling for the spoils of a nearby warthog carcass. Zambezi National Park, Zimbabwe. © Anup Kiritbhai Mistry

Read between the lines. The face of Medina, the 95 year-old matriarch of a Bisharin nomad family, tells tales of an almost century spent in the Bayuda Desert. Sudan. © Beatrice Wong

Buffalos with grass-stained horns comically cavorting. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Ilna Booyens

An intensive grooming session nurtures chimp kinship in Kibale National Park, Uganda. © Gonçalo Ferreira

Mating of the damselflies. Parys, Free State, South Africa. © Haig Fourie

Twice shy. A leopard cub timidly peers out from the tree canopy. Naboisho Conservancy, Kenya. © Heiko Mennigen

Flower power. A juvenile spiny flower mantis clutches onto the violas, showing off its powers of aggressive flower mimicry. Kenneth Stainbank Nature Reserve, Durban, South Africa. © Hendrik Louw

All eyes on you. A rain spider (*Palystes* sp.) locks its eight eyes on the photographer. Mt. Kenya, Kenya. © Robin James Backhouse

An ostrich indulges in a dramatic dust bath. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Ilna Booyens

Kaleidoscopic salt pans of Walvis Bay. Namibia. © Jaroslaw Klej

Last seconds of life. A mother zebra makes one final attempt to separate her foal from its pursuant – but fails. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Alex Brackx

A doe-eyed steenbok ram forages peacefully, unperturbed by the presence of the photographer. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Leshalabe Matlala

Of provocation and regret. A juvenile lanner falcon is unimpressed with a black-backed jackal who startled the doves away from Polentswa waterhole. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Botswana. © Michiel Duvenhage

A Neumann’s marsh terrapin photographed amidst the ponds of Ruiru, Kenya. © Robin James Backhouse

Star of the show. An imposing silverback makes his way downstage. Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda. © Pedro Amaral

An African wild cat freezes to cautiously observe its surroundings. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Peter Winnan

A small calf blithely amuses itself with its mother’s tusks as she grazes on. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Robert Elliott

An acrobatic four-striped grass mouse dines out at a dizzying height. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Ilna Booyens

A juvenile rhinoceros viper – a species heavily poached for the pet trade – clings on to existence in a small fragment of a once-great forest. Kakamega Forest, Kenya. © Robin James Backhouse

A pre-game stretch as this spotted eagle-owl prepares for an evening hunt. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Ilna Booyens

Serval kittens in sprightly play. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Andreas Hemb

Tarangire National Park

Northern Tanzania’s safari scene is dominated by the Serengeti and neighbouring Ngorongoro Crater. There are many good reasons for this – sightings are reliable, especially when the Great Migration is passing through, and the scenery is breathtaking. Yet there is a third, often forgotten, national park in the northern circuit: Tarangire National Park. Tarangire is a place of giant baobabs, fever tree forests, shimmering swamps and sweeping vistas, where wildlife roams in abundance. In this region, travel is still infused with the true romance of an African safari.

Tarangire National Park

Situated in Tanzania’s Manyara Region, just southeast of Lake Manyara National Park, Tarangire is just over 100km from the city of Arusha. This makes it easily accessible for travellers en route to the Serengeti National Park and Ngorongoro Conservation Area, situated further west. The national park extends over 2,850km² (280,500 hectares), but the land available to wildlife is expanded by Game Controlled Areas, conservancies, and the Tarangire Conservation Area. Here, people and wildlife exist side-by-side. Several luxury lodges operate in these concessions on the park’s fringes, allowing their guests to experience both the park and the increased freedom away from its confines – by offering night drives, for example.

From the Tarangire River in the north, rolling hills give way to vast swamps. These soak up the rain like sponges and maintain a tinge of green, even during the dry season. Away from the watery marshlands, the landscape is dotted with granitic ridges, red-earth termite mounds and sparse whistling thorn (Vachellia drepanolobium) woodlands. Throughout, bulbous baobabs (Adansonia digitata) impose themselves upon the backdrop, dwarfing even the enormous herds of elephants that forage around them.

The Tarangire Migration

Life in the northern section of the park (in terms of lodges, campsites, and wildlife) revolves around the sinuous bends of the Tarangire River. This geographical feature plays a pivotal role in Tarangire’s most remarkable natural phenomenon – the Tarangire migration. Though not involving the same wildlife numbers as the famous Great Migration, Tarangire’s migration is arguably equally sensational given its strict seasonality and the exceptional variety and densities of wildlife.

The park is part of an enormous ecosystem that includes Lake Manyara, the Maasai Steppe, and the area from Lake Natron to Mount Kilimanjaro. Every year during the dry season, the Tarangire River becomes one of the only available sources of water, and tens of thousands of animals are drawn to its banks and floodplains from miles in every direction. These include several species of antelope, buffalo, giraffe and zebra. Elephants also arrive in their hundreds, and Tarangire is believed to have one of the largest elephant populations in Tanzania.

Elephants, elephants (and everything else) everywhere

Tarangire is an elephant enthusiast’s paradise. It is impossible to spend time in the park without encountering these iconic pachyderms, feeding at the base of a baobab, strolling through the riverine forests or playing in the mud of the marshes. They are often present in a conglomeration of herds that may number close to 300 individuals – an incredible sight for even the most seasoned safari-goer.

Elephants aside, Tarangire is home to one of the greatest concentrations of wildlife outside of the Serengeti ecosystem. The dry season influx of ungulates sees a profusion of wildebeest, zebra, gazelle, eland, hartebeest and buffalo assembled near the river, or around residual pools in the swamps. Such a concentration of prey serves to attract the attention of the park’s various resident predators – particularly the ever-attendant lions. The lions of the Silale Swamps are particularly renowned, not only for their marshy hunting techniques, but also for their habit of lounging in the boughs of trees, perhaps to escape the tsetse flies. Leopards and cheetah are also present, though less regularly seen, and even African painted wolves (wild dogs) come haring through the park on occasion.

Away from the wetter areas of the park, visitors may even be fortunate enough to spot a gerenuk or fringe-eared oryx, making Tarangire one of the few places in Tanzania to see these arid specialists.

Twitching through Tarangire

For those able to tear their eyes away from the mammal life on display, Tarangire’s many varied habitats confer it the status of one of Tanzania’s top birding hotspots, with over 500 species recorded. From chattering flocks of yellow-collared lovebirds to stately ostriches picking their way across the plains, avid birders will find it a struggle to know where to look next. In contrast to mammal viewing, the best bird sightings are during the wetter months (November to May). This is when the swamps come into their own for waterbird watching, and migrant arrivals fill the skies. In addition, many dry-region bird species such as vulturine guineafowl and northern pied babbler are present at the margins of their ranges. Enthusiasts can while away the hours searching for the drab but sought-after endemic rufous-tailed weavers and ashy starlings, or search for the flash of colour signalling the arrival of the dazzling red-and-yellow barbets.

Explore & Stay

Like much of East Africa, Tarangire experiences two rainy seasons: the “short” rains in November and the “long” rains in April and May. However, heavy rainfall can occur any time from November until May, and many of the lodges and camps close down for the rainy season when the park becomes boggy and difficult to traverse.

Accommodation ranges from the basic to luxury in Tarangire; a hot-air balloon safari offers an opportunity to see the Serengeti from a unique perspective at Lemala Mpingo Ridge Lodge; here, guests can enjoy sweeping views across the Tarangire River and valley

Accommodation options in Tarangire National Park and surrounds range from public and private campsites to high-end luxury lodges. Naturally, Tarangire is at its best during the dry season, from July until October. During this time, concentrations of wildlife are mind-boggling, and, conveniently, this is also when tsetse flies are at their least active. Walking safaris at this time of year are as phenomenal as game drives, and the open habitats allow for comfortable and easy encounters with the larger wildlife species. For those looking to combine their trip with a chance to see the Great Migration, this is generally when the zebra and wildebeest begin to move north into the Maasai Mara in Kenya.

One of the major attractions of Tarangire National Park is that even during the tourism high season (June to August) when many of the parks throughout Africa are at their busiest, it remains one of Tanzania’s best-kept, uncrowded secrets.

Tarangire Treetops is situated on the path of an annual elephant migration, amid a landscape of rolling, baobab-studded hills

The perfect safari

Tarangire is often treated simply as a stop-over between the more popular destinations on Tanzania’s northern safari circuit. Yet those visitors who opt to explore this varied and fascinating national park are richly rewarded by one of Africa’s most underrated safari destinations. With magnificent scenery and an abundance of wildlife, Tarangire National Park has every ingredient needed for the perfect safari.

Want to go on safari to Tarangire? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

THIS WEEK

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Epic pics (last chance to enter) + best pools + Mara family safari

There has been much ANGER and polarised debate about two of Africa’s largest elephants in Botswana being reduced to hunting trophies on some needy person’s wall. And so it should be – these critical issues need to be broadcast to the world so that decision-makers understand the gravity of the situation and work to stop this annihilation of Africa’s icons. Thanks to those who weighed into the debate in the comments beneath our breaking news report. As often happens, many of the large news networks picked up on our story and repackaged it for their audiences – excellent!

What has this got to do with your next African safari?

Our profound belief is that people should safari in Africa knowing the brutal truths, the SPECTACULAR joys, and the real difference they can make when choosing a long-haul African safari over a short-haul beach vacation. This is why teamAG blends these flavours into our eclectic story recipe for you – we believe that YOU want to know what makes Africa tick and how you can get involved via discussion, safari or donations. Sadly many safaris are still sold based on myths and a sanitised version of Africa.

We are currently awash with safari enquiries – proving that increasing numbers of people are taking our Manifesto seriously. Thank you all from the bottom of our hearts. Safari njema!

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Only one week left! If you haven’t entered Photographer of the Year, now’s your chance. The entries are boiling beyond fever pitch. This week’s selection (below) is one of our hottest yet, featuring famous gorilla Ndakasi and her rescuer André Bauma, and magnificent cats of the Mara. Enter now!

This week we’re also bringing some poolside magic to top off your safari. Whether your vibe is gazing out over the big blue in an oceanside pool, or spending your safari break taking a fresh dip while gazing over wildlife at a waterhole – we’ve got a recommendation for you in our second story.

Safe travels to you all.

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

If you haven’t seen the documentary Virunga, do yourself a favour and watch it immediately (or as soon as you have finished reading this newsletter). When you do, you will understand how André Bauma (see this week’s Photographer of the Year gallery) became beloved by millions worldwide. His unflinching refusal to leave his gorilla charges as the M23 rebel fighters invaded the national park was an act of absolute heroism.

Animals have always paid the price of our wars. Did you know that curlew sandpipers and many other bird species depart from Africa on their migration back to Europe in the next week or two? For many, their path will take them directly across the skies of Ukraine… Somewhat unsurprisingly, “warfare ecology” is becoming an increasingly important field of study.

Story 1
EPIC PHOTOS
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-11/
This week’s selection for Photographer of the Year. Winners will receive their share of a US$10,000 cash prize and an epic Botswana safari. Don’t miss out.

Story 2
BEST POOLS
https://africageographic.com/stories/africas-30-best-swimming-pools/
Our list of THE 30 best swimming pools in Africa. Best views, best sightings, spots for sundowners & more!

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

This could be the BEST INVESTMENT you ever make
Family safari SPECIAL OFFER – stay 4, pay 3. This classic 6-day safari at Enkewa Camp in Kenya’s Maasai Mara is what families dream of – for kids of all ages ;-). Expect fun activities in camp, a local village and the bushveld. And, of course, the usual Mara wildlife Big 5 extravaganza – enjoyed in a game drive vehicle, on foot or in a hot air balloon.

Zen Safari moments
This 4-day SALT PANS add-on to your Botswana safari is ideal for that feeling (we all know it) at the end of an enthralling, exhausting wildlife safari when you want to chill out and reboot. Price ranges to suit all pockets

WATCH: The largest mammal migration on Earth. Can you guess the species? (0:44). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 11

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week

Shaking it off. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Andrea Castelli

Camel thorn trees and mountains in the early morning light. Sossusvlei, Namibia. © Rian van Schalkwyk

A lone gemsbok crosses impressionistic dunes. Perfectly adapted to its desert environment, the gemsbok can go days without water, thriving in this barren landscape. Namib desert, Namibia. © Dewald Tromp

Relevé in shades of coral. Flamingos sashay through the shallows. São Sebastião, Vilanculos, Mozambique. © Jay Roode

A flock of red-billed queleas against the early morning light. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Jens Cullmann

An underground hide provides the opportunity to see eye-to-eye with a pair of endangered reticulated giraffes, aquiline muzzles brushing the red earth in symmety. Ol Jogi Wildlife Conservancy, Laikipia, Kenya. © Julian Asher

A colourful klipfish shows off its good side. False Bay, Cape Peninsula, South Africa. © Peet J. van Eeden

Fear and confusion in the eye of a black rhino before its horns are removed by a team of veterinarians using a chainsaw – an unfortunate but necessary measure to protect rhinos against the illegal wildlife trade. South Africa. © Marcus Westberg

The herd crosses a dry lake. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Yaron Schmid

Serval on the prowl, backlit by the setting sun. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Andreas Hemb

An African wildcat rests in a camel thorn tree, its coat blending in with the tree’s bark. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Daniela Anger

A secretary bird feasts on a juvenile mole snake. The bird’s nictitating membrane – which can be drawn across the eye for protection and to moisten it while maintaining vision – is visible. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Marijke Claassen

Reading an ancient hand-written Bible in Lalibela – one of Ethiopia’s holiest cities and a site of pilgrimage for many Christians in the country. © Mark Levitin

A ceremonial warrior – a member of the chief’s retinue – performs during the Odwira Festival. Dunkwa-on-Offin, Ghana. © Nyani Quarmyne

Rain-soaked leopard. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Andrea Castelli

Zebras among a sea of chaos at a waterhole. Etosha National Park, Namibia. © Rian van Schalkwyk

Killer instinct. A cheetah, captive bred in a zoo in Canada and relocated to Imire Rhino and Wildlife Conservancy in Zimbabwe as a part of a rehabilitation programme, makes its first-ever kill. After 60 days spent in a boma to acclimatise to its new surroundings, the cheetah underwent a “soft release” exercise, slowly allowing it to transition to the wild. Within 24 hours of its release from the boma, this cheetah managed to prey on a waterbuck calf. Zimbabwe. © Sam Turley

Africa’s 30 best swimming pools

Africa’s sensational destinations each come with their own magnetism. But no matter where you happen to find yourself, a magnificent swimming pool is guaranteed to add an extra element of magic.

Read on to discover our favourite pools in Africa.

Want to go discover the best swimming pools while on an African safari? We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or let us build one just for you.

Best for ocean views

What can be better than gazing out over the big blue, cocktail in hand, while floating in temperate, calm waters? Look no further to find the best oceanside pools.

Azulik Lodge, Vilanculos, Mozambique: Perched atop a massive dune in a wildlife sanctuary is the tropical paradise of Azulik Lodge. As views from infinity pools go, this one across this corner of the Indian Ocean is hard to beat. Grab an R&R (Tipo Tinto rum and raspberry) or some fruit kebabs, and let the peace of paradise wash over you.

Canelands Beach Club & Spa, Salt Rock, South Africa: With 180˚ views of the ocean, the long pool at Canelands Beach Club & Spa is the perfect spot to watch for the fins of passing dolphins surfing the waves.

Tintswalo Atlantic, Cape Town, South Africa: Situated on the ocean’s edge, below Chapman’s Peak and offering spectacular views of one of the most beautiful urban/natural settings in the world, the view from the Tintswalo Atlantic pool is simply unbeatable.

Grab a cocktail at Azulik Lodge; soak up Cape Town at Tintswalo Atlantic; search for dolphins at Canelands Beach Club & Spa

Best for bush views

You can never get too much of the bush. But after a long day out on safari, soaking it all up while washing off the day and taking in the surroundings can be just the decompression you need.

Ol Donyo Lodge, Chyulu Hills, Kenya: 1.4 million years ago, ancient tectonic forces began to propel lava to the surface in a series of volcanic eruptions that created the Chyulu Hills. Today, the swimming pool at Old Donyo Lodges looks out across this magnificent ancient scenery where some of the last great tuskers still roam.

Settlers Drift, Kariega Game Reserve, South Africa: Tucked into a steep, densely vegetated slope in a remote corner of Kariega Game Reserve, Settlers Drift offers spectacular views over the Bushman’s River, and the pool is the best spot to take it all in.

Khaya Ndlovu Manor House, Hoedspruit, South Africa: The infinity pool at Khaya Ndlovu Manor House looks out across to the Limpopo Drakensberg Mountains and over the miles of bushveld between. On a blazing hot Lowveld day, take refuge in the pool and watch arguably one of the most beautiful sunsets in the world.

Amalinda Lodge, Matobo Hills, Zimbabwe: Matobo Hills is Zimbabwe’s oldest national park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Like the rest of Amalinda Lodge, the swimming pool has been incorporated into a granite outcrop to look out across a wilderness of wildlife and history.

View the bush below at Settlers Drift; overlook the Drakensberg at Khaya Ndlovu Manor House; experience true wilderness at Amalinda Lodge

Kubu Kubu Tented Lodge, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania: In the heart of Serengeti National Park, the pool at Kubu Kubu Tented Lodge overlooks the vast sweeping plains of the “place where the land runs forever”. Close to the Maasai kopjes, the Museum of Olduvai Gorge, Seronera and the Grumeti River, visitors here will have no shortage of options for adventuring. But a day spent at the pool overlooking the bush is high up on the bucket list for memorable moments in the Serengeti.

Kubu Kubu Tented Lodge’s view over the Serengeti makes a whole day spent in the pool well worth it

Best for sighting wildlife

Don’t feel like being out on safari for the day? Satiate your FOMO by having your own sightings right in camp.

Mihingo Lodge, near Lake Mburo National Park, Uganda: Perched high atop the granite boulders of a kopje, the Mihingo Lodge infinity pool provides a magnificent vantage point for spotting wildlife in the savannah valley below.

Mihingo Lodge offers arguably one of the best pools in Africa

Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge, Gonarezhou National Park, Zimbabwe: On the northern border of Gonarezhou National Park, one of the last true pristine wilderness areas in Africa, Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge looks out across the vast expanse of the Save River. Sip a cocktail in the cool waters while watching animals moving in for a drink below.

Saruni Samburu, near Samburu National Reserve, Kenya: Guests of Saruni Samburu can take their pick between two different swimming pools that overlook a waterhole. Escape the arid heat and watch as some of Samburu’s fascinating wildlife wanders through! Check out our Samburu special offer here.

Gonarezhou’s Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge overlooks the Save River; view the waterhole from Saruni Samburu’s pool; take a dip in the Great Karoo at the Manor House in Samara

The Manor House, Samara Karoo Reserve, Great Karoo, South Africa: Samara Karoo Reserve is a pioneering conservation journey to regenerate South Africa’s semi-arid Great Karoo region through rewilding and responsible tourism. The mountain landscape unfolds over a 21-metre infinity pool, descending to a waterhole frequently visited by wildlife.

Best oases in the African heat

Africa’s sweltering sun and desert destinations don’t need to leave you feeling flustered. Soothe away the scorch in the cool welcoming waters.

Pel’s Post, Makuleke Contractual Park, Kruger National Park: The magnificent eco-lux property Pel’s Post offers views over the Luvuvhu River. It is an exclusive-use property, so the pool is shared only with family and friends. Temperatures in the magical Makuleke Contractual Park regularly exceed 40˚C, so a refreshing dip, with the sound of elephants not far off, is essential.

The swimming pool at Pel’s Post overlooks the Luvuvhu River

Chitwa Suite, Sabi Sands Game Reserve, South Africa: Picture this: you’re awoken at the crack of dawn with freshly brewed coffee, treated to a morning of leopard sightings and returned to the lodge for a sumptuous breakfast. The remaining hours of the day stretch ahead, begging to be filled with something relaxing yet extraordinary. As the sun bakes overhead, this is the perfect time to escape into the azure waters of your private swimming pool.

Kwessi Dunes Lodge, NamibRand Nature Reserve, Namibia: In the vast desert wilderness, the pool at Kwessi Dunes Lodge is a veritable oasis with a view of the waterhole that draws in wildlife day and night.

Mkulumadzi Lodge, Majete Wildlife Reserve, Malawi: This pool, perched above the confluence of the Shire and Mkulumadzi Rivers, is perfect for cooling off after a day out in Malawi’s Majete Wildlife Reserve. Surrounded by a riverine forest of marula, leadwood and star chestnut trees in a private concession, visitors will find true tranquillity in this piece of heaven.

Experience a true oasis in the Namibian desert at Kwessi Dunes Lodge; while away the hours in Chitwa Suite’s pool in Sabi Sands; take a cool poolside break at Mkulumadzi Lodge

Best for sundowners after a long day

Nothing can beat the magic of a sundowner on safari. But some spots offer just a little more magic than others – especially when you can float about, cocktail in hand.

Duba Plains Camp, Okavango Delta, Botswana: Raised above the marshy Delta on decking made of recycled railway sleepers, each suite at Duba Plains features a private plunge pool – the perfect private spot to watch the sun go down and reflect on a day packed full of Okavango action.

Duba Plains Camp offers private pools for each suite

Bakuba Lodge, Ankilibe, Madagascar: After a day exploring the nearby mangrove beach in the fishing village of Ankilibe, situated in magnificent southern Madagascar, this picturesque pool at Bakuba Lodge will offer welcome relief. Or choose to spend the day out taking a trip on the Onilahy River, and head back to the lodge to settle down for a local-rum cocktail.

Makanyi Private Game Lodge, Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, South Africa: The graceful curves of the Makanyi Lodge swimming pool are perfectly in keeping with the rest of the lodge aesthetic – graceful, yet unobtrusive in its bushveld setting.

Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda: World-famous Murchison Falls National Park was one of the premier safari destinations in Africa and is once again a park on the rise. Nile Safari Lodge and its glorious swimming pool look out over a tranquil section of the Nile River from a raised riverbank.

Enjoy sundowners above the Nile River at Nile Safari Lodge; take a breather poolside at Makanyi Private Game Lodge; Experience a sunset like not other at Bakuba Lodge

Pumulani Lodge, Lake Malawi, Malawi: Gaze over the sunset flickering over the waters of Lake Malawi in this stunning infinity pool. Set on top of a hill in this fascinating part of the world, one could be forgiven for thinking they’ve found paradise. When you’re not treading water in the pool, head down to the lake-shore bar for cocktails on the beach.

Best for immersing yourself in your surroundings

Just when you thought your experience of these destinations could not get better… These pools will make you feel like you can reach out and touch the forest, ocean, mountains or river nearby.

Lemala Wildwaters Lodge, Kalagala Island, Nile River, Uganda: Watch the fierce rapids of the mighty Nile River come tumbling right past from the cool, calm comfort of the Lemala Wildwaters swimming pool. A visit to this remote and wild section of the Nile is like stepping back in time.

The Nile River churns past at Lemala Wildwaters Lodge, offering one of the best pools one can experience

Denis Private Island, Seychelles: Does the idea of an infinity pool on a private tropical island seem like overkill? It isn’t, trust us. Rinse off the sea salt and float about in the shade, cocktail in hand.

Sundy Praia, Príncipe Island, São Tomé and Príncipe: Hidden in the veritable jungle, Sundy Praia is one of several historical plantations now overtaken by the wild forests of Príncipe. The crystal waters of the infinity pool merge perfectly with those of the Atlantic Ocean just beyond.

Track and Trail River Camp, bordering South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: Spend whole afternoons in this pool with views across the Luangwa river, surrounded by the sounds of the bush. Track and Trail River Camp is located on a breath-taking spot overlooking the South Luangwa National Park.

Denis Private Island is picture-perfect; view the river below while poolside at Track and Trail River Camp; Sundy Praia’s pool is perched above the Atlantic Ocean

Jua Retreat, Zanzibar, Tanzania: Situated in the southeast of Zanzibar on the tip of the Michamvi peninsula, Jua Retreat’s beaches and immersion into nature promise an extraordinary experience. This pool, mere metres from the beach, offers the chance to soak up the sea air in the cool respite of one of Africa’s most beautiful pools.

Breathe in the sea air while having a refreshing dip at Jua Retreat

Best for true luxury

As if the food, service, surroundings and safari are not enough: these pools epitomise the luxury offered by their respective establishments – and are perfectly selfie-worthy to boot!

Jack’s Camp, Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, Botswana: Jack’s Camp is resplendent in draped muslin and canvas – as is its pool. Shelter from the oppressive midday heat beneath the folds of the tent – a homage to a forgotten era of safari.

The iconic 1940s-style interiors at Jack’s Camp offer old-world luxury

Chikunto Safari Lodge, South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: Boutique luxury ecolodge Chikunto is located on the iconic ‘Big Bend’ site overlooking the Luangwa River in South Luangwa National Park in Luangwa Valley. The saltwater counter-current swimming pool overlooks a waterhole, providing an inviting space to cool off and relax, or even get some exercise – in between adventuring in the bush.

The Motse, Tswalu Kalahari Reserve, Kalahari, South Africa: From the landmark Korannaberg mountains to the grassy, red dunes rippling away to the horizon, this vast tract of Kalahari wilderness is one of the most atmospheric destinations on our list.

The Oyster Box, Umhlanga Beachfront, South Africa: The Oyster Box does nothing in half measures – unapologetic grandeur and lavish interiors adorn every corner of this exclusive luxury hotel. Naturally, the swimming pool would have to live up to the standard throughout the rest of the hotel, which it does in absolute style.

True romance at the Motse in Tswalu in one of Africa’s best pools; Chikunto Safari Lodge offers a boutique luxury ecolodge experience; the Oyster Box offers an iconic view of the Umhlanga lighthouse

THIS WEEK

Victoria Nile River Lemala Wildwaters — Fancy going off-radar on an island in the Victoria Nile River, Uganda? Go here for the best prices at Lemala Wildwaters plus many others.

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Tuskers hunted + best photos + 3 days in Vic Falls

A lucky few of you may be reading this newsletter from bed, the beach or while watching wildlife at a favourite waterhole – as a string of April holidays around the globe come as splendid respite. Perhaps you’re spending the temporary quietening of the mad rush dreaming up new travel exploits. Never fear, as teamAG’s wheels keep on turning!

I highly recommend drawing travel inspiration from this week’s Photographer of the Year gallery below. I’m blown away by the diverse subject matter in this week’s selection, including a number of allegories on life and death from Chobe, Kruger and Sossusvlei, and even skateboarders “shredding the patriarchy” in Morocco. There are only two weeks left to get your entries in, so don’t miss out.

On a nauseating note, trophy hunters in Botswana have killed two of the largest elephants on the continent. The outcry on our social media pages at this news was immense, and with good reason. That an elephant hunt of any kind – never mind of a large tusker – could be allowed in an important elephant-migration corridor boggles the mind. Read more in our first story.

Knowing the size of animal populations in protected areas and reserves is at the heart of effective conservation strategies. Those in the know predict that one day, wildlife will be counted by drones and AI. Read how researchers are laying down the foundations for this in our second story.

Happy indulging in Africa to you all!

Taryn van Jaarsveld — Editor

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Not all that long ago, we were just another species wandering the globe, subject to the same whims of weather and fortune as any other wild creature. So it is only natural that evidence of that time remains.

One such example is our relationship with honeyguides, which probably goes back to the time of Homo erectus. Certain members of this bird family will guide people to beehives so that they can feast on the spoils once the useful humans have broken open the hive. Seasoned travellers among you probably knew that, but did you know that in northern Tanzania, this guidance increases the Hazda tribe members’ bee-raiding success rate by 560%? The Boran people of East Africa and the Yao honey-hunters of Mozambique also have a unique call to attract the bird and begin the search.

The sad thing? As these traditional ways of life gradually disappear from human existence, the “guiding” instinct of the honeyguide will vanish entirely …

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/trophy-hunters-kill-two-of-africas-biggest-elephants-botswana/
TUSKERS HUNTED
Trophy hunters have killed two of Africa’s largest elephants in Botswana

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/counting-animals-the-technology-helping-conservationists/
COUNTING ANIMALS
Counting wildlife in Africa’s massive protected wild areas can be a complicated process. Read how technology can help

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-10/
BEST PHOTOS
Check out this week’s Photographer of the Year entries. Only two weeks left to enter! Cash prizes and a Botswana safari are up for grabs

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

And now – for something completely different
Look away if your ideal safari is in the comfort zone because this is not your average vanilla-flavoured outing! Search for lowland gorillas, bongos, dwarf crocodiles, forest elephants and flocks of grey parrots in the dense forests of Congo in this one-of-a-kind, life-changing adventure.

Enjoy a quick break (or safari add-on) at Africa’s adventure capital. Victoria Falls is massively famous for many excellent reasons. Repeat visitors or newbies will enjoy chunks of wall-to-wall action and swathes of chill time staring in awe at the smoke that thunders. This is a 3-day quick fix that we can massage to suit your ideal time in heaven.

WATCH: 72 seconds of safari heaven to encourage you to get our APP and start planning your safaris (01:12). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 10

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week

Aerial abstract. A bird’s-eye view of Sossusvlei reveals life sprouting from the dunes. Namib-Naukluft National Park, Namibia. © Lucy Gemmill

Trophy hunters kill two of Africa’s biggest elephants in Botswana

The surgical removal of Africa’s large-tusked elephants by trophy hunters continues. Two massive bulls have been killed in the last few weeks in northern Botswana. The tusks of the two bulls each weigh more than 100 pounds and 90 pounds respectively – marking them as among Africa’s largest elephants.

The 100-pounder

The 100-pounder tusker is the largest elephant to be hunted in Botswana since 1996, according to contributors on AfricaHunting.com. The professional hunter involved is Leon Kachelhoffer and the elephant was hunted in the area known as NG13 (see map below). The location of the hunt is significant – refer to the closing discussion below.

Tusk dimensions:
Tusk 1: Weight 105.6 pounds (48kg) | length 238.76 cm (7,83 feet) | circumference 49.5cm (19.5 inches)
Tusk 2: Weight 95.7 pounds (43.5kg) | length 223.52 cm (7.33 feet) | circumference 49,5cm (19,5 inches)

Editorial note: We contacted Leon Kachelhoffer with the following request: “In the interests of transparency and accurate reporting, could you answer a few questions? We would like to clarify the nationality of your client, the total amount paid by the client and how that amount is distributed to the various suppliers and communities.” He responded by advising us that he is “a bit busy at the moment”. We will update this post if he does come through with the requested information. FURTHER UPDATE: Our follow up report is worth reading.

Trophy hunters — The 100-pounder tusker recently hunted in NG13, northern Botswana. Faces have been obscured for legal reasons – in accordance with privacy and defamation laws.

The hunted elephant’s tusks weighed 201.3 pounds combined. Faces have been obscured for legal reasons – in accordance with privacy and defamation laws.

The 90-pounder

The 90-pounder (estimate provided by AfricaHunting.com) was recently hunted by Johan Calitz Safaris, also in northern Botswana. At this stage, we have no further information about this elephant.

The big picture

Botswana hosts the largest fluctuating elephant population in the world, largely because of historically sound conservation practices and a dominant photographic tourism industry. Elephants migrate seasonally across much of southern Africa (particularly in the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area – KAZA), with Botswana and Zimbabwe hosting the largest fluctuating populations. These elephant migrations are increasingly obstructed by human settlement, farms, mining, major roads, fences and other man-made obstacles – forcing free-roaming elephants into reduced areas. ‘Fear zones’, where elephants are persecuted by farmers and/or trophy hunters, also dictate elephant movements and stress levels. Read this research for more information about the impact of trophy hunting on elephant movements.

Human-elephant conflict occurs in areas where humans and elephants compete for land and water – and many rural human lives and livelihoods are lost in the process. This is a major concern and focus area for African governments, and the Botswana government is no exception. Ecosystems, where elephants congregate in increasing numbers near water during the dry winter months because of the above pressures, are also suffering as elephants denude these areas of tree cover.

Trophy hunters kill two of Africa’s biggest elephants in Botswana

Comment from our CEO Simon Espley:

“The 100-pounder hunt took place in NG13 – which is in the elephant migration corridor that KAZA hopes will help reduce human-elephant conflict. Angola and Zambia have large tracts of suitable elephant habitat and the KAZA strategy is to ensure that wildlife migration corridors remain free of obstacles and fear zones – so that elephants can again move freely between the KAZA countries and place less pressure on Botswana’s people and ecosystems. The location of this hunt pegs NG13 as a ‘fear zone’ (see research link above) for elephants – resulting in this particular hunt being damaging to Botswana’s wish to reduce human-elephant conflict and so improve the lives of its people.

The surgical removal of Africa’s remaining large-tusked elephants by trophy hunters will not solve any human-elephant conflict or habitat issues. The volume of elephants hunted is not sufficient to reduce elephant populations. Instead, the likely result of the selection of large-tusked elephants as trophies will be to hasten the disappearance of tuskers from the African landscape.”

Counting animals – the technology helping conservationists

Counting wild animals can be a complicated process, particularly when estimating populations in some of Africa’s massive protected wild areas. Yet policymakers and conservationists need to make the best possible decisions regarding the programmes put in place to conserve certain species, especially where limited budgets are available.

Consistent analysis is vital to monitoring population trends over the years and proactively identifying potential threats and problems, rather than attempting to rectify population declines after the fact. Now scientists working with Save the Elephants and Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) have shown how technology can be used to make aerial population surveys more accurate.

Typically, aerial wildlife counts are considered a more accurate method for counting animals, particularly in open spaces and where larger animal species are concerned. The standard method is to fly systematic reconnaissance flights over transects or along a survey line, with a ‘rear-seat-observer’ counting the number of animals within the transect or within a specific distance of the line. These numbers are used as sample units, and the population is extrapolated from there using various statistical methods. The researchers compared this method to a newly-devised ‘oblique-camera-count’ over Tsavo National Park. They concluded that human counters missed approximately 14% of the elephants, 60% of the giraffe, 48% of the zebra and 66% of the larger antelope. This, in turn, suggests that aerial counts have resulted in significantly undercounted wildlife populations.

This is not as a result of any negligence or lack of expertise on the part of the counters – animals can be hidden under dense vegetation, or cryptically coloured. Safety concerns mean that the plane has to maintain a specific altitude and speed, so counters only have a maximum of 7 seconds to count a particular area. Added to that is the inevitable variability as a result of aircraft type, ground speed, altitude, sample strip width and observer fatigue and the fact that using a helicopter to allow for more thorough counting is prohibitively expensive.

While these limitations had long been recognised, this is the first study of its kind where continuous oblique imagery (more suited to areas where animals might be resting under trees than imagery taken from directly overhead) was acquired over the complex terrestrial environments in Africa. Tsavo was chosen because wildlife counts had been planned for that period but it also presented challenges due to high ambient temperatures, strong winds and turbulence. The cameras were mounted to mimic the viewing perspective of the human counters. The images were later analysed by a team of interpreters who methodically worked through and enlarged thousands of images to identify and count animals.

At this stage, the authors of the study acknowledge that this process of image interpretation is labour intensive, as the interpreters went through over 200 images a day for nine months. Thus, they explain that this is just the starting point in the move towards more automated counting by machine learning where, at the very least, a software program can flag the potential presence of an animal. As technology improves, so will the ability to conduct aerial counts more accurately and cost-effectively.

As Save the Elephants has previously explained in an annual report, ever-changing technology has enormous implications for the conservation sphere. From specialised recognition software, scientists have already developed algorithms that recognise individual zebras and leopards. This information can only serve those tasked with protecting wilderness areas and the animals that call them home. Says Frank Pope, CEO of Save the Elephants: “Counting wildlife is critical for management but is expensive and surprisingly hard. Modern cameras mounted on aircraft can greatly improve accuracy, but counting the wildlife in the hundreds of thousands of images that result is impractical. Artificial intelligence holds the key to processing the images, and making these surveys cheaper as well as more precise. One day wildlife will be counted by drones and AI – what we’re doing is laying the foundations for that future.”

Resources

The full study can be accessed here: “Comparing an automated high-definition oblique camera system to rear-seat-observers in a wildlife survey in Tsavo, Kenya: Taking multi-species aerial counts to the next level”, Lambrey, R., Pope, F., Shadrack, N., et al, (2020), Biological Conservation

The Save the Elephants annual report referenced can be accessed here.

THIS WEEK

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Moremi glamping + best pics + tiger farming + Chobe developments

So we all SURVIVED one overpaid Hollywood narcissist (OHN) bitch-slapping another OHN on stage while a coterie of OHN’s gawked and then applauded. Moving on swiftly.

The Botswana government is trying to force-feed its good people a very bitter lemon. Our third story below is a classic case of political manoeuvring at the cost of the environment and an already established economy. That the Batswana need FAR MORE direct involvement in the tourism industry is not in doubt – that has to happen. But killing the goose that lays the golden eggs is short-sighted and naive. Time will reveal the shady dealings and identity of the predetermined beneficiaries. Walks away shaking his head …

And finally, from the maladroit to the RIDICULOUS, there is this. Lab-grown lion and tiger meat for sale. Laugh or cry – your choice

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

The mornings have turned crisp and the leaves are yellowing here in a fresh Autumn Johannesburg. To stay warm, I’m turning my attention to toastier destinations. This week we explore the wonders of a mobile glamping safari in Moremi Game Reserve – an AG expedition that’s not to be missed. Check out our second story.

The Week 9 entrants to Photographer of the Year have also been out and about in the African sun – and they’ve brought back incredible, award-worthy images. This week’s gallery is filled with rare species, otherworldly treescapes, and some interesting creatures in some, ahem, passionate positions. Check these out below.

Our third story focuses on Botswana’s dubious call for tenders for 8 new lodges in Chobe NP. We’re also delving into the stark reality of South Africa’s big-cat farming industry. Illegal tiger and lion breeding is still rampant in the country, despite Barbara Creecy announcing plans for a complete ban on the captive-lion industry. See how this illegal trade threatens wild populations of these animals across the world in our final story below.

Happy indulging in Africa to you all!

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

It is no secret that our relationship with alcohol goes back a very long way. As far back as there have been people, they have been finding new and inventive ways to ferment things. In many countries, indulgence in the Bacchanalian delights has translated into an enormous public health concern.

But did you know that this love of liquor may well link to our evolutionary history? The theory is (appropriately) called the “drunken monkey” hypothesis and suggests that the attraction has its roots in early dietary requirements. Scientists recently proved that spider monkeys in Panama prefer fruits with a higher ethanol content – quite possibly because they can metabolize the alcohol and harness additional calories. So, in theory, people have a penchant for booze because our early, fruit-eating ancestors derived nutritional rewards from it. Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on your perspective), we are no longer limited to the 2% alcohol content of slightly “off” fruit, hence people making monkeys of themselves …

Story 1
BEST PHOTOS
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-9/
Award-worthy images of the African continent in our Week 9 selection of Photographer of the Year shots. Get your entries in now!

Story 2
MOREMI MAGIC
https://africageographic.com/stories/moremi-bucket-list-mobile-safari/
Explore Moremi on a mobile glamping safari with expert guides: 5 spots open in AG’s May expedition

Story 3
NEW CHOBE DEVELOPMENTS
https://africageographic.com/stories/botswana-to-develop-8-new-lodges-on-chobe-riverfront/
Botswana’s plans for eight new lodges in Chobe NP, despite recommendations and regulations against developments, have angered environmentalists

Story 4
TIGER FARMING
https://africageographic.com/stories/big-cat-farming-and-illegal-tiger-trade-in-south-africa/
South Africa’s illegal tiger trade and farming of other big cats threaten the wild populations of these animals across the world

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Come get it while it’s still warm!
A last-minute cancellation means that we can offer a VERY SPECIAL price for this dream glamping safari in late May. Six days in intoxicating Khwai and Moremi for US$2,380 per person is a steal (5 places available). There is also one seat left for a late April departure for US$2,215. Fully-catered mobile safaris that will reboot your life. For further info also refer to our story above.

And, for the pursuit of culinary delights and Big 5 safari heaven, there is this: Bush & beach, Pinotage to predators – South Africa – 12 days

WATCH: South Africa’s vervet monkeys survive in urban spaces (03:31). Click here to watch

Botswana to develop 8 new lodges on Chobe Riverfront?

The decision by the Botswana government to call for tenders for the development of eight lodges of 75 beds each on the Chobe Riverfront within Chobe National Park (CNP) has raised concerns amongst stakeholders and environmentalists.

This process seems to be going ahead, despite stipulations in the current gazetted CNP management plans that no new lodge developments should take place within the park. Antagonists are questioning the Botswana government’s commitment to wildlife conservation and raise concerns that this tender process is being fast-tracked via allegedly illegal and unconstitutional means.

The government also appears to have disregarded existing USAID-funded 2020 CNP Management Plan Review recommendations that no further lodges be developed within the national park. In this regard, the recently edited draft CNP Management Plan (which has not yet been gazetted) goes against advice by consultants as evidenced by the existing management plan.

The country’s Ministry of Environment, Natural Resources Conservation and Tourism recently invited citizen-owned companies and consortiums to submit ‘expressions of interest’ to lease eight lodge sites within an area on the Chobe Riverfront , with little notice provided and reportedly without following due process – threatening the survival of Chobe National Park. The eight lodge sites measure three hectares each along the Chobe River and are spaced two kilometres apart. Tender processes for three additional lodge sites (totalling 11) proposed in the updated draft management plan – in the Madamboza and Ngwezumba Medium Intensity Use zones – have not yet been initiated.

The Ministry’s invitation sent earlier this year for Expressions of Interest (EOI) called for parties to submit ‘Management Plans’ related to the sites in question – for the development and operation of tourism sites lease periods of fifty years. Applicants were expected to attend a compulsory site visit to proposed sites on 3 March of this year, and EOI applications were due on 21 March. No affected entities or stakeholders were given the opportunity to consult and discuss the proposed development of lodges before the EOI invitation was published.

Various stakeholders, including public and private corporates, SMMEs, owner-operated establishments, NGOs and private citizens (under the name Concerned Stakeholders Chobe District) filed a formal opposition to these development plans in a Letter of Objection on 7 March. Various concerns were raised by the parties, stating that the “clandestine” manner in which government rushed the tender process raises suspicions of illegal and perhaps even unconstitutional conduct by the Ministry.

“The rushed time frame offered on that brief public notification to participate in the EOI was unrealistic and provides ample speculation to the legality and inclusiveness of the process,” states the Letter of Objection. “It begs the question, had select participants already been established/offered the chance to tender before the all-too-brief public notice was made?”

Botswana to develope 8 new lodges on Chobe Riverfront — Stakeholders opposing the new Chobe NP lodge sites fear overdevelopment could threaten the delicate Chobe River ecosystem and existing tourism operations.

Botswana’s government appears to be fast-tracking the initial allocation of land in order to speed up the allocation of the sites and allocation of land to empower Batswana. This was related during a session of Parliament at the end of March by the Minister of Environment, Natural Resources Conservation and Tourism, Philda Kereng, who stated that the management plan had been updated with technical advice and in fact showed that up to 11 lodge developments could be established on the Chobe Riverfront. “The sites that could be built there are 11 [sic] but we are going for eight because we don’t want high traffic there,” she said. Furthermore, Kereng stated that bid winners would conduct EIAs and then incorporate these into their specific plans for the sites.

This is a complete about-turn by the government, which in recent years (under different administration) rejected proposals for development within the CNP Riverfront, including for the establishment of an elephant orphan sanctuary, the construction of a communications tower by Botswana’s telecommunications regulator and a lodge proposed by the Botswana Defence Force (BDF) Welfare Trust Fund. At the time, the Department of Environmental Affairs stated no further development of lodges within the CNP should be considered as the environmental and long-term economic impacts of such developments far outweigh any perceived short-term economic benefits. In the 2017 rejection of the BDF’s proposed lodge, the Department stated the increase in the carrying capacity of the area created by one new lodge on the Chobe Riverfront would “significantly put pressure on the environment, the natural resources and the Chobe River front [sic] area.” Only five years later, the government is pushing for the development of eight lodges in this area.

In a further twist, consultants to the USAID-funded 2020 CNP Management Plan Review noted with concern that updated versions of the Management Plans in question appear to have been altered after they signed off on their approvals.

Consultant Lin Cassidy requested that the names of the USAID-funded team be removed from the latest approved plans, stating “we have learned that versions of [these] management plans…. that we submitted to the Department of Wildlife and National Parks (DWNP) and which were accepted and approved by DWNP, may have been changed since our submission and completion of our contract.”

The Hospitality and Tourism Association of Botswana (HATAB) has added its voice to those in opposition to the developments, stating these will have a “very significant impact” on the Chobe Riverfront by increasing congestion and environmental pollution, restricting animal movement and “placing increased pressure on already threatened species such as the Chobe bushbuck” – especially during the lodge construction process. Once lodges are up and running, the maximum 75 beds for each facility would potentially mean 600 more people in the park at peak times – in addition to support staff for each lodge.

While the stakeholders are not in opposition to economic upliftment and the creation of employment opportunities, there are major concerns that the proposed developments will threaten the environmental wellbeing of the national park, and that the tender process has been unconstitutional. The proposed developments could contribute to human-wildlife conflict, threatening animal populations that are already contending with encroaching agricultural developments and human settlements. The new lodges will result in the loss of 8km of wildlife corridors and up to 8km of wildlife-viewing roads within an already limited road network. “The impact of increasing an already high-traffic volume by an estimated minimum of 50 game viewing vehicles will be devastating to the quality of the tourist experience and will certainly change wildlife behaviour and distribution,” states the Letter of Objection. “The myriad environmental impacts seem not to have been considered at all.”

The letter raises concerns that expansion of these lodge sites, which are bounded by the main road to the south and annually flooded plains to the north, can only occur laterally east and west, consuming more river frontage and exacerbating the degradation of the ecosystem.

Further objections to the tender process have been raised by young tourism entrepreneurs, who say the specifications, which require companies to own existing tourism licences, favour established businesses and do not support the creation of opportunities for the youth of Botswana, reports Mmegi Online.

“Our interpretation is that only companies that are operational and own a tourism-related business are favoured,” reads a complaint by Eco Tours director, Othusitse Ranko. “It is our considered view that the above is discriminating to individuals and companies, especially the youth who haven’t had an opportunity before to own and operate tourism-related facilities and who by default won’t have the required tourism licence.”

Stakeholders opposing the developments are in agreement that the oversaturation of the market by businesses is unsustainable and could lead to all-round collapse – of both the delicate Chobe River ecosystem and of existing tourism operations within CNP. “The jewel of Botswana requires protection,” read the objection by HATAB, “and thus we encourage our government, developmental and environmental partners to protect our parks for the benefit of our posterity.”

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 9

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week

Moremi: bucket-list mobile safari

If the thought of glamping in Botswana’s Big 5 wilderness appeals to your sense of freedom and adventure, you may be ticking a magical Moremi safari off your bucket list before you know it. Moremi Game Reserve is in the renowned Okavango Delta. We are offering an extraordinary fully-catered mobile safari expedition to Moremi with a touch of pampering and minimal effort on your part – only five spots are open in our upcoming May expedition. You could soon find yourself gliding through the waters of the Okavango on a mokoro, indulging in the local knowledge of an expert guide who’ll leave no stone unturned to unlock Moremi’s secrets, and falling asleep to the sounds of lion roars and hyena cackles piercing the darkness. Why settle for five stars when you can have five million?

Read more about this incredibly priced special offer departing in May this year. This is a rare opportunity to experience this epic adventure at an exceptional price.

Moremi: Bucket-list mobile safari — Big 5 sightings abound in Moremi

No-fuss mobile camping adventure

This experience is designed for adventurers longing to explore Botswana’s most pristine and wild areas – from Moremi’s Xaxanaka and 3rd Bridge areas to magnificent Khwai and the eastern regions of the Okavango Delta – without the hassle. A hospitality team takes care of all the practicalities, from setting up and breaking camp in Meru-style tents at every destination, cooking three delicious meals a day over an open fire and expert guiding while exploring the wilderness. The accommodation in spacious mobile canvas tents includes beds with linen and fleece blankets, en-suite bucket showers, comfortable bush toilets, open kitchen, mess area, and campfire hearth.

In between various day-time adventures and game drives, safari-goers can float along the waters of the Delta on a mokoro, which provides the opportunity to silently approach unsuspecting wildlife. Witnessing an elephant splashing about in the water, sneaking up on otters or viewing hippos and crocodiles at eye level is a profound experience, both hypnotic and exhilarating.

After mornings and afternoons spent ambling through the bushveld in the true spirit of African adventure, guests arrive back at camp for sundowners around the fire (don’t wander too far – lest you stumble upon a curious lion or hyena). Evenings are spent stargazing while staying warm around the campfire as dinner is prepared by hosts.

Moremi’s pristine wilderness

The fascinating habitats of the Okavango Delta make for a safari paradise. Exploring this with your group’s safari vehicle and local guide with in-depth knowledge of the area means the opportunity to come face to face with the Big 5, hyena, wild dog, cheetah, and the more scarce but equally desirable creatures such as aardwolf and pangolin (which do require a dash of good luck). There is a great deal of freedom when on safari in this area – night drives, walking safaris, and even off-roading are allowed. Birding is prolific, with over 400 species recorded, including Pel’s fishing owl, coppery-tailed coucal and iconic colonies of seasonal carmine bee-eaters.

Unwind through the rhythm of the wild

When AG CEO Simon Espley returned from this bucket-list adventure, his time on this bushveld escape had him returning infinitely nourished. “There’s a rhythm to this mobile safari that encourages you to truly, seriously unwind,” he says. “Time takes on a different meaning, perhaps because you have more of it. Your lullabies are sung by hyenas, lions, leopards, hippos, nightjars and owls. You’ll be pampered, bush-style, from dawn to dusk. But, you’ll also recharge your batteries and reconnect with the real you.”

Want to join this epic safari? Guests can book an entire mobile expedition for family and friends or join an existing expedition. Read more or book here.

Big cat farming and the illegal tiger trade in South Africa

South African farmers illegally breed tigers and other big cats for sale into the luxury goods and traditional medicine markets. This illegal tiger trade and associated big cat farming threatens the wild populations of these animals across the world, as illegal networks launder wild-poached and captive-bred animals and their body parts.

This and other revelations are contained in a new report compiled by the South African office of animal-welfare organisation FOUR PAWS. Note that in mid-2021, South Africa’s Minister of the Department of Forestry, Fisheries and Environment (DFFE), Barbara Creecy, announced plans for a complete ban on the controversial captive-lion breeding industry – but despite that, the industry remains firmly in place.

The global captive tiger population is three times the size of the remaining wild population

Other big cats bred and trophy hunted in South Africa for export include lions, leopards and jaguars. The report focuses on the captive-tiger industry in South Africa, but most issues raised also impact the other big cat species.

This commercial trade in tiger parts flouts agreements set out by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) that state “tigers should not be bred for trade in their parts and derivatives.” Report author Kieran Harkin says: “It is clear that South Africa is overtly allowing tigers and other big cats to be intensively bred for commercial trade in their body parts. This is unacceptable as the farming of tigers for commercial trade has detrimental effects on wild tiger populations. South Africa is playing a significant role in contributing to the decline of a species that is non-native to Africa. They need to shut down this industry to help reverse the decline of all big cats and not just the tiger.”

“The lack of effective regulations for species like tigers combined with the existence of a legal captive-lion industry and bone trade, has allowed a legal industry to flourish, whilst also acting as a conduit for an illegal trade,” says Fiona Miles, Director of FOUR PAWS in South Africa.

The report ultimately calls for South Africa to end its big-cat industry and reverse its role as an exporter of big cats and their parts. This would give the relevant enforcement authorities a better chance to tackle the illegal trade within and from South Africa.

A lack of effective regulations or minimum conditions for species like tigers and lions has allowed a legal industry to flourish

Notable extractions from the report

Worldwide, there are an estimated three times as many tigers in captivity (+/- 12,600) as there are in the wild (4,400).
The hunting and killing of tigers is permitted in all nine South African provinces.
The regulations relating to the keeping, breeding, killing, and trading of tigers are so different between the nine South African provinces as to make effective management and record-keeping impossible.
Most live tigers exported went to Vietnam, China and Bangladesh.

The largest number of tigers exported from South Africa was to zoos. The number-one importer of tigers from South Africa is China. *© FOUR PAWS*

The exact number of captive tigers in South Africa is not known. Requests to the provincial authorities for accurate tiger statistics were either ignored, replied to in part or confusing/inaccurate. Similarly, the volume of live tigers and tiger parts traded is unknown.
A study of the CITES Trade Database reveals that 359 live tigers and 93 tiger ‘trophies’ were exported from South Africa between 2011 and 2020. In addition, 34 items exported were labelled as code ‘T’ (for commercial purposes) – a direct contravention of CITES Decision 14.69.
There are no known tiger zoos or captive breeding facilities that introduce tigers into the wild or maintain studbooks to maintain genetic diversity. This is also a contravention of Cites Decision 14.69, which stipulates that the breeding of captive tigers is restricted to a ‘level supportive only to wild tigers.’
CITES records in Egypt indicate that 15 live tigers were imported from South Africa, yet South African records indicate only 4 live tigers exported to Egypt. These discrepancies in CITES records are commonplace and ensure that proper analysis of the scale and nature of trade in wild species and their parts is impossible.
Lions: South Africa exported 27,418 lions and lion parts between 2011 and 2020 – the majority of which were captive-bred.
Leopards: South Africa exported 61 live leopards (of which 48 were captive-bred), 807 leopard ‘trophies’ and 374 skulls during 2011 and 2020.
Big cats bred in South Africa and exported live are facilitating the growth of big cat breeding operations throughout the world.

Requests by FOUR PAWS to provincial authorities for accurate tiger statistics were either ignored or inaccurate. © *FOUR PAWS*

Recommendations from the report on the lion and tiger trade

As the legal industry has made the tiger trade and trafficking of lion parts easier, the report makes the following recommendations to minimise the negative effects of the intensive tiger- and lion- breeding industry:

South Africa should end the commercial breeding of all big cats and the export and commercial trade in live animals and parts.
A clause should be introduced whereby current owners can keep their living animals but must stop all breeding and allow the animals to see out their lives naturally – with all welfare needs met.
Detection and law enforcement efforts around smuggling should be increased at South Africa’s entry and exit points.
Awareness around the modus operandi of wildlife trafficking syndicates should be increased amongst key stakeholders.
The majority of the 27,418 exported lions and lion parts from South Africa between 2011 and 2020 were captive-bred

Conclusion

South Africa has become a haven for the illicit big-cat breeding industry. It is clear from this report that nobody knows how many big cats are being kept in South Africa or the volume and nature of illegal and legal trade – least of all the relevant authorities required by law to control the industry and maintain accurate records. The burgeoning trade encourages illegal operations and contributes to the demise of wild big-cat populations. Neither international nor South African authorities effectively control the lion or tiger trade, or reign in the burgeoning illicit trade.

Resources

Full report: Harkin, K. & Locke, S. 2022. Year of the tiger? Big cat farming in South Africa: the need for international action. FOUR PAWS.

Read more on the ban of the captive lion industry in South Africa.

Read more on FOUR PAWS and their work in South Africa.

Comment – teamAG – Friday 01 April 2022

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Awesome photos + talking elephants + Africa’s jackals

The great continent is well and truly open for travel, with restrictions easing up around borders every week. I’m bursting with bliss to see our AG community buzzing with trip plans – plotting voyages to the shores of Lake Kariba, prepping for mountain gorilla treks in Uganda and lacing up boots for walking safaris in Greater Kruger. Our forum is alive with requests for travel and tipping advice, and teamAG’s safari experts are aglow with ideas and inspiration.

Our first story below is a handy guide on the rare and tasty craft beers our travellers can order on their African journeys. We’ve skipped the mass-produced regulars in favour of the special flavours you’ll find nowhere else in the world. I’m sure many of you will soon be toasting your safaris along the Okavango River or watching the sun go down over the Namib Desert with a cold one in hand.

We’re also celebrating the continent’s most underestimated carnivores – daring and endearing jackals. Read our second story to see why they are a favourite for us.

There is only one month left to get your entries in for Photographer of the Year. The extraordinary pics keep rolling in: see our third story to see which images made the cut this week.

Happy indulging in Africa to you all!

Taryn van Jaarsveld — Editor

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Once a year, on April Fool’s Day, a popular social media site shares a crudely manipulated image of wildlife doing something crazy. A few years ago, their chosen joke was a picture of an elephant carrying a lion cub. The caption explained that the mother lioness was tired, and the elephant, in the spirit of peace and love, opted to help her out. The picture went viral, with thousands of comments about how we could learn a thing or two from animals—a perfect example of how people are at their most gullible when they want to believe. And people want to believe that wildlife behaves like children’s stories.

On that, here’s an extraordinary fact that sounds a lot like a hoax (but isn’t). Did you know that there is an elephant in captivity in Korea believed to be capable of mimicking human speech? Koshik can “say” five words in Korean: “hello”, “sit”, “lie down”, “no” and “good”. We are still a long way from knowing everything about elephants’ capabilities. (But we do know they don’t go around helping lion cubs across the road…)

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/6-beers-to-order-on-safari/
BEST BEERS
Our guide to the 6 best locally brewed beers from top-class breweries to enjoy on your African safari

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/jackals-of-africa-consummate-survivors/
AFRICA’S JACKALS
Jackals are expert opportunists and the ultimate survivors of the African bushveld

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-8/
BEST PICS
Our selection of Photographer of the Year 2022 entries for Week 8 is out now

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

6 ways to enjoy the magnificent MAASAI MARA & SERENGETI

Migration season – river crossings – Maasai Mara and Serengeti
Migration season – babies and predators
Green season – avoid the crowds
Take the family – activities for kids
Special offer – Maasai Mara & Samburu for 7 days
Photographers – expert guides + modified vehicle + offroad permits

WATCH: Anatomy of a bribe. A riveting exposé by Al Jazeera’s Investigative Unit into corruption in the Namibian fishing industry. This is a story of how foreign companies plunder Africa’s natural resources. (51:11). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 8

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week

6 beers to order on safari

What better way to celebrate a successful safari than to crack open a cold one at the end of a long hot day, take that first refreshing sip and stare at the majesty of Africa around you? For almost as long as there have been people, they have been brewing beer. Across cultures and continents, the bacchanalian discovery of the delicious and intoxicating product of fermented cereals became ingrained in everyday life.

Like the rest of the world, Africa has a long-standing and merry history of brewing beer – both commercially and traditionally. Preparing (and consuming) indigenous beers is still a part of life, especially in rural areas and during customary celebrations. For many tribes, the rituals involved vary depending on specific events and require different vessels and formalities for each. Umqombothi, chibuku, changa’aa, khadi, hydromel… Africa is awash with distinctive traditional brews – some of which are more meal than drink!

While beer enthusiasts may protest in horror, the truth is that the basic beer recipe is not a complex one: some malted barley here, a handful of hops there, plenty of water and enough yeast to get the party started. However, brewers in Africa rely upon sorghum and maize and flavour the product with everything from fruits and flowers to roots and honey. These local techniques have been gradually incorporated in commercial, craft and boutique brewing practices to create flavours unique to each country.

Have a look at our list of unusual favourites below to guide your decision.

6 best beers to order on safari — Devil’s Peak Beer Company’s zero-alcohol Hero Original; the Okavango Craft Brewery’s Delta Lager; The Big Five Brewery’s Temstout; Namib Dunes Craft Brewery’s Irish Red; Tiemann Beer’s Wild Dog Shempa Ale; and Twiga Brewery’s Blonde Ale

1. ‘Delta Lager’ from the Okavango Craft Brewery, Botswana

The Okavango Craft Brewery sources their millet from the small-scale farmers around the Okavango Delta – at premium prices. In partnership with the local NGO Ecoexist, the aim is to reward local communities for their efforts to coexist with elephants and stimulate local economies while producing the perfect quality beer to toast your safari in the Delta. Be sure to order one when on your next adventure in this iconic, pristine wetland system.

2. Wild Dog Shempa Ale from Tiemann Beer, Zambia

From the vats of Zambia’s first craft beer producers, the Wild Dog range from Tiemann Beer has taken the country by storm. Zambia is famous for its walking safaris, and the light, flavourful ale is the perfect end-of-day beverage to gulp down while soaking tired feet in the Luangwa River. When next you head to the vast Zambian wilderness playground in search of an authentic, unfussy safari experience on foot, be sure to order a Shempa Ale.

3. Irish Red from Namib Dunes Craft Brewery, Namibia

Beer is to desert as oxpecker is to buffalo: the perfect pair. Beer brewing is a source of national pride in Namibia, and in keeping with this proud tradition, Namib Dunes Craft Brewery has produced some of the best beers for watching the sun go down over the red dunes of the Namib Desert.

4. Twiga Blonde Ale from Twiga Brewery, Tanzania

Operating from the green slopes of Mount Meru in Arusha, Twiga Brewery is a small, independent operation offering hand-crafted beverages of the highest international standard and craftsmanship. As the wildebeest and zebra gallop across the savannah during the Great Migration, take a moment to celebrate a day of extraordinary sightings while sipping on the Twiga Blonde Ale.

Crack open a cold one while watching the Great Migration; refresh while overlooking the Namib Desert; or sip on an ale at the edge of the Luangwa River

5. Temstout from The Big Five Breweries, Kenya

From one of the top breweries in Kenya, The Big Five Breweries, this full-bodied beer carries a hint of dark chocolate and, of course, a strong coffee flavour from a country that produced some of the best coffee in the world. Whether heading to the magical Maasai Mara, or to spot tuskers in Tsavo or Amboseli National Parks be sure to keep an eye out for this beer on the menu.

6. Hero Original from Devil’s Peak Beer Company, South Africa

Devil’s Peak Beer Company’s Hero Original presents the ideal solution for those who want to enjoy the crisp taste of a beer from one of South Africa’s premier craft breweries, minus the alcohol. Whether saluting the day surrounded by the magnificent vistas of Cape Town or lounging away in the heat of a South African bushveld afternoon, you can refresh with the non-alcoholic Hero range.

So, what should your order be? Well, for a start, forgo the more commercial brands and take a chance on something more distinctively African.

Want to sample these tasty beers on safari? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

Resources

Sip on your favourite African beer at the bery best sundowner spots.

Is beer o’clock the best time of the day? Have a look at our guide to the highs and lows of the safari day.

Did we miss something? Tell us about your safari beer of choice by commenting below.

Jackals of Africa – consummate survivors

A lion’s roar or hyena’s whoop are considered “iconic”. But the song of the jackal is one of the wild’s most hauntingly beautiful sounds, easily on par with spine-tingling wolf howls in other parts of the world. As dusk descends, the haunting lupine melody of the continent’s most underestimated carnivore cuts through the air and raises goosebumps on the skin.

The basics

Nearly anyone on safari is likely to encounter a jackal at some point, often around a lion kill and very seldom at the centre of attention. They are expert opportunists and masterful lurkers with iron-clad stomachs capable of handling everything from rotten carcasses to berries and even lion faeces. As underappreciated species go, jackals are very close to the top of the African safari list. Without the rarity factor, they are generally overlooked or dismissed. This is unfortunate as they are fascinating, intelligent, social and, on occasion, clownish creatures. Besides, any animal that dares to snatch the scraps out from beneath a hungry lion’s nose should be entitled to automatic respect. They are also skilful hunters, particularly the black-backed variety.

Not to be confused with foxes (of which there are several species in Africa, learn more about them here), jackals are taller and stockier than the various members of the Vulpes genus, with longer, more obviously wolf-like facial features. There are two species in Africa – the black-backed and side-striped jackal. Another species, the golden jackal, inhabits parts of southern Europe and Asia. As the name indicates, the black-backed jackal can be distinguished by the saddle of black (with white patterns) that runs across the centre of the back, while the stripe of the side-stripped jackal is often indistinct.

Jackal and elephant — A black-backed jackal on the prowl near Kasane Forest, Botswana

The side-striped has the more extensive range of the two species and is found throughout much of sub-Saharan Africa. They are notably absent in the more arid areas of the southwestern part of Southern Africa, where black-backed jackals reign throughout most of South Africa, Botswana and Namibia. Where the two species do overlap (as they do across much of East Africa), the black-backed jackal seems to dominate, despite being the smaller of the two. This has often been connected to the observation that black-backed jackals appear to hunt more frequently (and hunt bigger prey) than their side-striped cousins. However, whether this is true across all populations and habitat types has yet to be confirmed.

These differences aside, there are several species similarities. Both jackals are omnivorous, with plant matter accounting for over 50% of their diet in some places. They are also both monogamous and territorial.

Jackals of Africa — A side-striped jackal spotted in the Okavango Delta

Quick facts

	Black-Backed Jackal	Side-Striped Jackal
Mass	6-13kg	6.5-14kg
Shoulder height	38-48cm	35-50cm
Social Structure	Monogamous, small family groups	Monogamous, small family groups
Gestation	Just over two months	Just over two months
Number of pups	One to nine pups	Three to six pups

The lifelong couple

As they are monogamous, there is minimal sexual dimorphism between male and female jackals. The bond between mated pairs is profound and may last for several years – usually the duration of their lifespan. The couples are almost inseparable and cooperate in virtually every aspect of their joint lives. This includes foraging and, on occasion, hunting cooperatively to bring down larger prey. In East Africa, jackals are renowned for a tendency to target Thomson’s gazelle fawns. One member of the duo (or small family) will fend off the spirited defence of the mother while the other lunges for the fawn. There is even anecdotal evidence of jackals using a “fascination display” to lure prey or distract larger predators from their meals. They lie down and squirm comically, attracting curious prey close enough to grab or infuriating a predator to the point that it temporarily forsakes its kill, only for the jackal to leap up and snatch a bite.

The breeding pair will also join forces to defend territories against other jackals, and observational research shows that the death of one partner has dire consequences for the survivor, usually involving the loss of territory and subsequent displacement. Territorial boundaries are ignored when a large carcass is present, and not even the pair’s combined efforts are sufficient to deter trespassers.

Playing happy families

A successful couple will raise several litters of puppies throughout their lives, some of which will stay on to help their parents with the subsequent litter before dispersing. The pups are born in a den, which is usually an abandoned aardvark or warthog tunnel, but the female may excavate the tunnel herself. She remains with the helpless pups for up to three weeks or longer until they emerge above ground on wobbly legs. During this time, the male and any older offspring will forage for her and regurgitate food upon their return. As the pups grow and begin to explore, she will join forces with the rest of her family to provide for their voracious appetites. All family members will bravely defend the pups against predators several times their size, snapping and snarling at hyenas or dashing in front of lions to draw them away from the vulnerable puppies. Naturally, this means that having older offspring “helpers” has a direct bearing on pup survival, particularly for larger litters.

Jackal pups transform from fluffballs into competent predators within a few short months

The tiny pups rapidly transform from cuddly fluffballs to competent predators, and they are already able to hunt for themselves (albeit somewhat unsuccessfully at times) at six months old. They remain with their parents for another two months, after which most will disperse, but some will stay behind as helpers. Research shows that the dominance hierarchy between siblings, particularly pronounced in black-backed jackals, may well play a role in determining which individuals decide to stick around.

A wolf in jackal’s clothing

In 2015, the scientific community was rocked (well, relatively) by the revelation that Africa was, in fact, home to two jackal species, not three as previously believed. The third member – now known as the African wolf – had diverged from the Asian golden jackals well over a million years ago.

Later research revealed that it is a genetically admixed canid with both grey and Ethiopian wolf ancestors. The African wolf (Canis lupaster) looks and behaves exactly like a jackal, showing how classification based on morphology or behaviour alone can be distinctly deceptive.

Advancements in genetic analysis have contributed significantly to the reclassification of many supposedly related species across several prominent mammal families, including the canids. DNA analysis from several studies shows that both the black-backed and side-striped jackals are the basal members of the wolf-like clade. In other words, they diverged very early on and are genetically distinct from the other members like the wolf and coyote (and domestic dog). As such, the IUCN Canid Specialist Group recently recommended that their scientific genus be designated as Lupulella, rather than Canis. The recommended scientific name for the black-backed jackal is Lupulella mesomelas, while that of the side-striped jackal is Lupulella adusta.

Jackals and people

Since the jackal-headed Anubis (okay, so technically, he was an African wolf) first weighed the hearts of the dead, and possibly long before, jackals have played a role in the mythology of many different cultures. In many, they are the bad guy, a cunning trickster, or a sorcerer capable of shape-shifting. In Khoikhoi legends, many of the stories involve the jackal outwitting or betraying the lion. Some of these beliefs persist today, and jackal body parts and pelts are used in traditional medicine by tribes throughout Africa.

Today, however, their biggest threat comes from conflict with farmers, especially those with smaller livestock animals – as jackals will readily hunt lambs. For several centuries, jackals were seen as vermin, and various lethal methods were employed to rid the farms of their presence. Yet, as bigger wildlife species were gradually eradicated from farmlands throughout history, jackals remained, despite being killed in large numbers. Fortunately, today, educational programmes have begun to change attitudes towards the jackals and non-lethal (and more effective) techniques such as guard dogs are used to ensure livestock safety. Despite being persecuted for centuries, jackal numbers are believed to be stable and healthy populations persist across most of their natural range.

Jackal scavenger — An opportunistic black-backed jackal taking a chance

Ultimate survivors

For the most part, the human brain is not particularly well designed to grasp the timescale of evolution. It’s a bit like understanding the size of the universe – immense but in a nonspecific way. Yet for aeons, nature has had time to play with different recipes for survival, rejecting failed attempts without mercy and casually throwing environmental curveballs into the mix. Over the years, these forces have shaped teeth, lengthened and fused tarsals and carpals, stretched out trunks, created opposable thumbs and designed wildlife perfectly adapted for their chosen environment and competitors.

Out of this melee, the continent’s two jackal species emerged relatively early on compared to the other dog family members. From then on, these clever little canids have proved repeatedly that they are the ultimate survivors of the African bushveld and should be appreciated as such.

Resources

Browse pics from a fantastic black-backed jackals vs honey badgers sighting.

Or see pics of black-backed jackals hunting thirsty birds in the Kgalagadi.

Enjoy this video of two jackals serenading each other (and their neighbours).

Comment – teamAG – Friday 25 March 2022

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Brilliant pics + elephant auction + Katavi + ultimate Mara safari

Rant alert!

Recently we published our thoughts on the 6 best places to see painted wolves (wild dogs). Of course, you may have suggestions on how to improve on this list – which are always welcome. But here’s the thing: On our Facebook page, every comment focussed on our choice of name for Lycaon pictus – some so AGGRESSIVE that we hid the comments. Not one person on Facebook responded to the advice provided in our story. Not one. Juxtapose that with the comments in our app – every comment was relevant to the topic at hand. This is why we built the app – for relevant, CONSTRUCTIVE discussions. Plus, of course, to find the best prices at Africa’s most authentic camps & lodges. And to make secure donations to conservation projects that make a difference at ground level.

I am so over how social media has become a cesspit of trolls, scams and manipulative algorithms. Moving on. Please GET OUR APP (there is also a desktop version) by scrolling to the prompts below.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Photographer of the Year is picking up steam! With every selection, it becomes harder to narrow down entries to a choice few. Don’t miss our epic Week 7 gallery below.

And if the entries are not enough to inspire longing for adventure, our story on Katavi National Park – Tanzania’s wildest secret – will. This guide to an electrifying safari nirvana, teeming with herds in the dry season, will have you packing your bags.

We’re moving with giants this week, and delving into the challenges of human-elephant conflict. In our third story below, read how beloved super tusker Tolstoy was saved last week after meeting the wrong end of a spear.

Majestic elephants conjure intense emotion in us. It’s no wonder Namibia’s controversial elephant auction has sparked debate. The first captured elephants have now entered the murky muddle of international wildlife trade. Our last editorial below, by conservationist Gail Thomson, is the most balanced view I have read on the matter to date, and is not to be missed.

Happy indulging in Africa to you all!

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Did you know that we share around 96% of our genome with chimpanzees? Here’s another fun fact – that number is almost meaningless unless you happen to have a relatively comprehensive understanding of the science of DNA. The number jumps around from 96% to 99% for a start, depending on which similarity is measured. Chromosomes, genes, proteins, gene expression, mutations – it all gets very complicated!

Yes, we share many of our genetic building blocks with our closest relatives. But roughly 35 million differences change everything! These differences created the characteristics that make us uniquely human: our permanently bipedal stance, hairless (mostly) bodies and extraordinary intelligence (and frightening capacity for evil). The point is that tiny changes matter. And on a related (ha) note, a reminder that you can download our app and seamlessly donate to 61 vetted conservation organisations. Just a thought…

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-7/
BRILLIANT PHOTOS
The entries are getting tougher to judge as the great pics keep rolling in. Check out our Week 7 selection, and don’t forget to enter.

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/katavi-national-park/
WILD KATAVI
Tanzania’s Katavi draws hoards of wildlife in the dry season & flourishes under floodplains in the rainy months

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/super-tusker-tolstoy-treated-for-spear-wound/
TUSKER TROUBLE
Rangers jumped into action to treat super tusker, Tolstoy of Amboseli, for a spear wound following conflict with farmers

Story 4
https://africageographic.com/stories/namibias-elephant-auction-evaluating-the-results/
ELEPHANT AUCTION
Opinion Editorial: balancing conservation, welfare & legality around Namibia’s controversial elephant auction

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

The ultimate Maasai Mara safari for those wanting to push the boundaries of their photography – to achieve THAT image that everyone talks about. Award-winning photographer-guide + a specially modified vehicle for those low-angle shots + off-road driving permits = the perfect combo. Need we say more? August 2022 – 2 places left.

Budget safari – South Luangwa, Zambia. This well-priced safari offers exceptional guiding and an authentic bush camp safari for travellers on a modest budget. Luangwa Valley is the birthplace of walking safaris and enjoys one of Africa’s highest leopard densities.

WATCH: Baby elephants rescued from mud in Mana Pools. Footage from two years ago that tugs at the heart-strings (02:45). Click here to watch

Super tusker Tolstoy treated for spear wound

Originally published by Big Life Foundation

Super tusker Tolstoy of Amboseli National Park in Kenya is a living natural wonder, carrying some of the largest tusks on the planet. So when the rangers from Big Life Foundation, who preserve the wildlife and habitats of the Amboseli-Tsavo-Kilimanjaro ecosystem, don’t see Tolstoy for a while – they go looking.

When Tolstoy’s absence was noticed last week, the rangers set out to search beyond their regular patrol areas. Eventually, they found Tolstoy resting under a tree. All appeared well, until the giant took a step. It was evident that Tolstoy was struggling to walk. After getting closer to get a better view, the rangers could identify the problem: Tolstoy had a puncture wound in the joint on his front right leg.

A wound like this was no accident. Tolstoy is known for raiding crops. He usually returns unscathed from his night-time forays into farmland but, when he is caught in the act of crop-raiding, farmers will do whatever they can to defend their fields. In this case, Tolstoy was speared in the leg. Crop-raiding by elephants can cost a farmer their entire season’s income in one night, and despite Tolstoy being one of Africa’s last remaining ‘super tuskers’, that doesn’t stop farmers from protecting their livelihoods. It is also not the first time this has happened. Tolstoy was treated for three spear wounds in 2018 – injuries that were also received during crop-raiding.

The joint Kenya Wildlife Service/David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust mobile veterinary unit was quick to respond, but the decision to treat Tolstoy was not made immediately. Darting an animal of his size, particularly with a wound in a sensitive joint, is extremely risky because the elephant may not be able to stand after treatment. The decision was made to wait 24 hours and see if his condition improved.

Tolstoy super tusker — Tolstoy was darted and quickly treated by the vet team. After receiving a jab to wake up, he retreated to rest in the shade.

The rangers stayed by his side through the waiting period, spending the entire night out with him. However, the wound showed no sign of improvement. The decision was then made to dart him – which was done quickly and professionally. His wound was thoroughly cleaned and treated, and Tolstoy was given antibiotics and painkillers before receiving a jab to wake him up.

With great effort, Tolstoy finally stood and stared back at the treatment team, before retreating into the shade. For now, his prognosis looks good. But he is unfortunately not yet in the clear and Big Life’s rangers will continue to monitor him as his wound heals and he walks the road to recovery. The rangers will also continue to spend their nights out in the farms around Amboseli and Tsavo National Parks, keeping elephants safe and helping farmers to protect their crops – in the hopes of preventing similar occurrences in the future.

Learn more about Big Life Foundation’s work or make a donation here.

Resources

Want to follow super tuskers on safari in Tsavo and Amboseli? We show you how.

You can also read about AG travel client Roger’s experience searching for super tuskers on the app forum.

Read more about the super tuskers of Tsavo.

Learn about dealing with the challenge of crop-raiding elephants in Tanzania.

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 7

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week

Namibia’s elephant auction: Evaluating the results

Note from our CEO Simon Espley: ‘This is an emotional topic for most of us. The author of this opinion editorial on Namibia’s elephant auction succinctly differentiates between the science and the ethical issues at play and between fact and speculation. This is a tough read for those of us who believe that there can be no justification for capturing wild elephants and subjecting them to incredible hardships and early death in zoos and other forms of prison. The lucky ones will be moved to large protected areas in Africa, but many will disappear through CITES loopholes into the fog of the wildlife trading industry. That said, it is important to read the facts so that our opinions are informed, and to recognise that solutions have to be found in instances where elephants and humans clash for space and water.’

By Gail Thomson, originally published by Conservation Namibia

Namibia’s decision to auction 170 elephants from human-elephant conflict hotspots has to date resulted in the capture and translocation of 37 wild elephants from the Kamanjab and Omatjete areas. Both captures for the elephant auction involved family groups of elephants, with one group translocated to a private reserve in Namibia run by N/a’an ku sê and the other exported to two safari parks in the United Arab Emirates (UAE). Following the conclusion of these transactions, more details are now available that allow for an evaluation of the decision to auction elephants and its consequences.

The reasons for this tender are covered in detail in a previous article on this topic. Elephant numbers are increasing and their range is expanding in Namibia, which is both a cause for celebration and concern. The key concern is related to human-elephant conflict, especially in areas where elephants have not occurred for decades. The dominant land use in these areas is livestock farming, where fencing and water infrastructure (pipes, reservoirs, drinking troughs) are not built to withstand elephants.

The elephant removal plan was thus a short-term action to alleviate some of the conflict by removing elephant herds from high-conflict areas, while simultaneously providing income to the Game Products Trust Fund (GPTF). This Fund does not contribute to MEFT’s overall budget, but is ring-fenced for conservation projects and the Human-Wildlife Conflict Self-Reliance Scheme. Long-term plans that MEFT wants to implement to reduce human-elephant conflict would thus be funded through the GPTF. Offers to pay the GPTF without removing any elephants from the target areas were not aligned with MEFT’s primary objective to reduce elephant numbers and did not include specific amounts of money or detailed plans of action. Such vague promises were therefore not considered valid bids.

Thus far, N$ 4.4 million has been paid to the GPTF by two successful bidders. One of these bidders, the N/a’an ku sê Foundation, translocated 15 elephants from the Omatjete area to their newly established private reserve covering 33,000 hectares. The other successful bidder is game farmer Gerrie Odendaal, who bought the elephant herds and resold them to two safari parks in the UAE. Since the latter bid involves exporting elephants into captive conditions outside the natural elephant range, it is the more controversial of the two. (Note that another 20 elephants have been sold on auction but are yet to be captured, and their destination yet to be revealed.)

Elephant movements in Namibia — (Left) The coloured marks represent elephant movements in Namibia, and the southern border of Etosha is represented by the upper green line. The herd moved to N/a’an ku sê’s property came from the pale blue area (Omatjete-Kalkfeld-Fransfontein). The herd exported to UAE via quarantine in Gobabis was from the pale green area (near Kamanjab). The core range of desert-adapted elephants is around the dry riverbeds in communal conservancies and protected areas further west. (Right) A land use-map showing the same overview of Namibia, demonstrating freehold and communal farming areas. Note that the desert-adapted elephant population generally ranges to the west of the red line on the map (areas receiving less than 150mm of rain per year on average)

The main issues involved with capturing wild elephants for the purposes of captivity relate to elephant conservation and welfare. Exporting elephants internationally must further satisfy conditions set by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES). Here, I provide relevant information on each of these issues as they relate to the current elephant auction.

Elephant Conservation

There are two aspects of MEFT’s elephant tender that need to be considered to evaluate this decision in terms of elephant conservation. The first is whether there was any conservation value to this decision in Namibia, and the second is whether there is any conservation value at the elephants’ ultimate destinations.

The contribution to GPTF and the short-term alleviation of some human-elephant conflict in the two target areas has some conservation value. This is especially so if the N$ 4.4 million is earmarked not just for conservation projects generally but for implementing longer-term research and conservation projects that aim to reduce conflict and assist local farmers. Alleviating the current conflict by removing some elephants (other herds remain in the area) further shows these farmers that MEFT is willing to take concrete action to reduce conflict in the long term. Evidence of collaborative projects between MEFT, the Namibian University of Science and Technology’s Biodiversity Research Centre and Elephant Human Relations Aid strongly suggest that the elephant removals will be followed up with future assistance.

The case for elephants being exported to safari parks in the UAE having conservation value at their destination is much weaker. The Namibian Chamber of Environment (NCE) strongly agrees with the IUCN African Elephant Specialist Group on this matter: keeping elephants in captivity provides no direct benefit to elephant conservation in the wild. As Dr Chris Brown, CEO of NCE states, “keeping elephants in zoos is a Victorian-era practice that has no place in modern conservation, which focuses on maintaining wild animal populations and their associated ecosystems”.

This is part of a larger debate, however, as zoos and safari parks worldwide claim that they have a role to play in educating the public and creating awareness of the need to conserve animals in Africa. Some zoos provide conservation grants, while others claim to contribute to species conservation through research and captive breeding programmes. One of the safari parks receiving these Namibian elephants is a member of the European Association of Zoos and Aquaria (EAZA) and the other states that EAZA will be a partner in their future breeding programmes. Both parks have refused to be publicly named as destinations for these elephants.

Regardless of the claims made by zoos and safari parks of their contribution to conservation, it would have been vastly preferable if these elephants were sent to other African range states with depleted elephant populations. As MEFT discovered from the responses to their tender notice, however, there are vanishingly few areas in Africa that are ready to receive elephants at this time. MEFT is certainly willing to engage with other African countries to assist with restocking depleted elephant populations, but one would first have to address the causes of that depletion (e.g. poaching) before undertaking a reintroduction programme.

In early 2020, African Parks signed a management agreement with Iona National Park, which is part of a Transfrontier Conservation Area (TFCA) that includes Namibia’s Skeleton Coast National Park. Elephants from north-western Namibia would therefore be well-suited to conditions in south-western Angola. It will likely take a few years of improving the infrastructure and staff capacity to address poaching in Iona before they are ready to accept elephants. African Parks did not approach MEFT regarding these elephants, so it is reasonable to conclude that they are not ready to receive elephants yet. MEFT is more than willing to support an elephant translocation to Angola provided they receive a formal request from that government.

Moving elephants within Namibia to areas that are suitably fenced is another option, which was provided by N/a’an ku sê’s new private reserve. Like other Southern African nations with growing elephant populations, however, there are very few areas in Namibia that can host more elephants. Translocating the elephants back into Etosha National Park, for example, would have a low likelihood of success because Etosha’s population is close to its capacity. This is why these elephant groups broke out of Etosha in the first place – to seek water and grazing elsewhere. Further, the Etosha fence line is in no fit state to keep elephants inside the park. Even some private farms in Namibia that have elephants struggle to maintain their fences against elephant damage, thus becoming a source of human-elephant conflict rather than a solution.

With clearly limited options for translocating wild elephants to other areas within natural elephant range that could make a significant contribution to conservation, what other options remain for MEFT? The only other practical option for reducing elephant numbers in the short-term is culling. Unlike the tender option, this would provide no income to GPTF. Since CITES prevents international ivory trade, the only value that could be captured from culling is the meat that could be locally distributed or sold. As Botswana discovered, this option is even less popular among the general public than a live elephant auction.

Elephant Welfare

Some of the greatest protests against exporting elephants to captivity are related to animal welfare. Certainly, if the destination of these elephants were small concrete enclosures in disreputable zoos, this move would be rightly condemned on animal welfare grounds alone. The practice of separating young animals from their mothers and training them using cruel or questionable methods to “break” them is abhorrent. The conditions of the Namibian tender (that family groups had to be moved together) were such that unscrupulous buyers such as these would not be interested, and several other conditions set out in the tender document addressed elephant welfare during the translocation process.

Gerrie Odendaal, the game farmer who organised and paid for the translocation, quarantine and export of the 22 elephants destined for the UAE was also concerned for the welfare of these animals. He remained in constant contact with an independent veterinarian and the MEFT wildlife veterinarian during the time that the elephants were in his care. He says that when they arrived at his 28-hectare quarantine facility, the elephants were aggressive and afraid of people, probably because they were continually harassed on the farms around Kamanjab. Odendaal continues, “after a few weeks in my care, they calmed down considerably and even females with young calves were comfortable in the presence of people.” Odendaal commented, “I even fed the older bull with apples straight from my hand, although I respected their space and never approached them on the ground.”

Photos of these elephants reveal neat puncture holes in the ears of some of the older females, which have most likely been caused by small-calibre bullets intended to chase the elephants away from farms where they were unwelcome. Sadly, one of the younger elephants seems to be an orphan. Odendaal speculates: “It is old enough to feed itself, but does not associate closely with any of the adult females. It seems that its mother was killed sometime before we captured the herd.”

The 28-hectare camp is based on the final destination facility at one of the safari parks (the elephant enclosure at the other one is 24 hectares). Prior to the elephants’ arrival, Odendaal’s quarantine area contained large camel thorn trees and plenty of smaller bushes, but the elephants have destroyed these trees in the last few months (the quarantine period had to be extended due to COVID-related travel restrictions). Artificial shade near the feeding area has therefore been provided to replace the shade trees. Odendaal provided bales of lucerne, branches harvested from bushes on the rest of his farm, and hundreds of apples to sustain the elephants’ healthy appetites. The herd was provided with fresh piped water and a muddy pool to cool themselves off.

In consultation with a veterinarian who has many years of experience with elephants, the 22 elephants that were captured in Kamanjab were split into two female herds, with one unrelated bull each, that were delivered to the two safari parks at the same time. While in quarantine, all of these elephants were kept together and the two sub-groups were identified by closely observing how the herd split up when moving around the camp. The elephants that were born in the quarantine facility (having been conceived in the wild prior to capture) were added to the Namibian CITES export permit and were provided with extra care during transit. On the Namibian side of this translocation, every effort was taken to ensure the welfare of these elephants, and the destinations in the UAE seem to be capable of maintaining a high welfare standard.

Concerns nonetheless remain about the destination of the next generation of elephants, if these herds breed successfully in the UAE. Dr Brown comments: “Their future is now out of our hands. Will they land up in Victorian-style, cramped zoos, or in even worse caged conditions in China? What prevents these safari parks from selling elephants on to less reputable places? It is imperative that zoo associations (EAZA and others) ensure that captive elephant populations are carefully monitored to prevent welfare abuses of this nature.”

CITES Permits

Import and export permits are not provided by CITES itself, but each country must have its own national authority that provides such permits, following rules and guidelines set by CITES. The national authorities report to CITES regularly on their numbers of imports and exports, and provide information to the CITES Secretariat on specific decisions when required.

CITES categorises plants and animals that are (or could be) threatened by international trade into Appendix I, II and III (Appendix III is not of concern here). Species in Appendix I are considered to be highly threatened by international trade. CITES therefore restricts all trade in these species, except under specific conditions. Appendix II species are considered to be not currently threatened by international trade, but could become so if this trade is not closely controlled. African elephants are listed as Appendix I in all range states except Namibia, Botswana, South Africa and Zimbabwe, where they are listed under Appendix II.

Previous exports of elephants from Zimbabwe to non-African states (including China and the UAE) were completed under Appendix II guidelines, which state that the animals can only go to appropriate and acceptable destinations. At the most recent CITES Conference of the Parties (CoP18) in 2019, the definition of what is appropriate and acceptable was amended to destinations located within the natural range of African elephants and that contribute to in situ (i.e. in the wild) conservation programmes.

A recent statement by CITES on the Namibian elephant export explains the conditions that national authorities must adhere to when issuing export and import permits for Appendix I and II species. From this statement, it is clear that if Appendix II conditions are not met, the animals must be treated as Appendix I species. Given the recent restrictions on exporting Appendix II species outside of elephant range, these Namibian elephants are being exported and imported under Appendix I conditions.

Under these conditions, the Namibian national authority (MEFT) must be satisfied that this particular deal is:
a) not detrimental to the survival of the species;
b) not illegal under national laws;
c) the translocation methods must minimise the risk of injury, damage to health or cruel treatment; and
d) that an import permit has been granted by the destination country.

The Namibian government has met all of these conditions and is therefore operating within CITES regulations.

As the importing country, the UAE national authority must be satisfied that:
a) the transaction is not detrimental to the survival of the species;
b) the facility where the elephants will be kept is suitably equipped to house and care for them; and
c) the elephants are not to be used for primarily commercial purposes.

The last clause does not refer to money being paid to the exporter for the animals, but for how the buyer in the importing country will use those animals. Since the UAE has granted an import permit that covers both safari parks, it seems that their national authority is satisfied that they meet all three of these conditions (the third condition is described in more detail here).

On final evaluation

The definitive evaluation of MEFT’s decision to auction 170 elephants is thus not straightforward. From a CITES point of view, it is legal. In judging whether or not it was a good decision, one must take into account both conservation and welfare concerns.

For conservation purposes, at the very least, these decisions must not compromise the survival of the elephant population. Removing 170 elephants from farmlands outside protected areas will not have a detrimental effect on the survival of the Namibian elephant population, thereby meeting this minimum condition. The most vulnerable sub-population in Namibia occurs in arid areas on the unfenced communal conservancies and protected areas in the far west: these are commonly known as the desert-adapted elephants. The elephants that were removed are not part of the desert-adapted population, but occur directly south of Etosha.

MEFT and its partners are implementing a longer-term plan to try and mitigate the conflict between farmers and the remaining elephants. It is reasonable to say that a net gain for conservation was achieved for Namibia by selling rather than culling these herds. Nevertheless, keeping elephants in captivity has no direct conservation value, as reintroductions from captivity into the wild are far more costly and risky for the elephants than wild-wild translocations.

On the welfare side, our actions must limit animal suffering as much as possible. In this case, not removing elephants from farmlands also has negative welfare implications, as they may be harassed and even killed by frustrated farmers. We do not know what the elephants would choose if given the option between a safe, boring life in captivity, a dangerous life alongside hostile humans, or a quick death at the hands of a professional culling team. Of the options available for captivity, large safari park enclosures that allow whole family herds to stay together in semi-natural conditions are preferable to individual elephants living in cramped zoo conditions.

In an ideal world, none of this would be necessary. Humans and elephants would have no problems living side-by-side, the elephant range could keep expanding across southern Africa with no difficulties, and poaching would no longer be a problem. No elephants would be kept in captivity worldwide, and anyone wishing to see an African elephant would visit protected areas on the continent and thus boost tourism revenues. Unfortunately, we do not live in an ideal world. In reality, decision-makers have to strike a balance between competing human and elephant needs, while taking elephant conservation and welfare into account.

Resources

Dive into the key questions for human-elephant conflict research.

Read more on the story behind the Namibian elephant auction.

Learn about the great balancing act between elephants and communities.

Katavi National Park

Life in sub-Saharan Africa is ruled over by the cadence of the seasons. Nowhere in East Africa is the dichotomy between the dry and wet season more apparent than in Tanzania’s Katavi National Park. The arrival of the rains transforms landscapes, and a scarcity (or overabundance) can mean the difference between life and death. As the last thunderstorm dissipates beyond the horizon in Katavi, the park swelters beneath a merciless sun. Rivers slow to a trickle, honeycomb cracks appear in the mud, and the remaining water becomes a raw battleground. Hippos pack together in lingering wallows, crocodiles slither into sandbank caves, and herbivores must run the predator gauntlet as they line up to quench their thirst each day. For those in the know, this is what makes the remote Katavi one of the most electrifying safari destinations – a seldom-visited natural nirvana.

Katavi National Park

At 4,500km²(450,000 hectares), Katavi is one of Tanzania’s largest national parks. It is situated not far from the country’s western border, just east of Lake Tanganyika in a truncated arm of the Great Rift Valley (the Rukwa Rift Basin) that ends around Lake Rukwa. The Lyamba Iya Mfipa and Mlele escarpments line the park to the west and east. The protected area is significantly augmented by surrounding game reserves, including Rukwa, Lukwati and Luafi (also spelt Lwafi) Game Reserves. Together with the national park, these reserves encompass some 12,000km² (1,2 million hectares) of prime wilderness, stretching to the Ruaha ecosystem to the east and the chimpanzee forests of Mahale National Park to the north. Much of the park is dominated by miombo woodland interspersed by vast open clearings (including the 425km² – 42,500 hectares – Katisunga Plain) and floodplains. Naturally, life revolves around the park’s rivers and reed-lined waterway networks. The Katuma River feeds the seasonal Katavi and Chada Lakes, its network supplemented by the Kavu and Kapapa Rivers. Ancient riverine forests dominated by tamarind trees line these river systems, providing ample shade for the elephants, buffalos and tourists that seek refuge beneath the canopy during the soporific heat of the day.

East Africa is, of course, a safari mecca and there are many places where wildlife viewing is simply extraordinary. Yet Katavi, on Tanzania’s southern circuit, stands out because it is so far off the traditional beaten safari track that it receives fewer than 500 visitors every year. Those visitors who make the journey are richly rewarded and often find themselves with a vast chunk of African savanna to themselves, without another tourist in sight.

Leopard in tree — Katavi’s predators are not as habituated to humans as in more popular reserves, providing truly wild experiences

Without the pressure of high tourist densities, the park authorities offer more freedom and activities to their adventurous patrons. Walking safaris are permitted in the company of an armed ranger, and self-drive visitors looking to camp in the park have innumerable options when picking a suitable site.

The park’s animals are less accustomed to people and vehicles. While far from skittish, they do not display the almost zoo-like disinterest in passing cars as seen in some more popular safari destinations. This, combined with Katavi’s remote and secluded ambience, gives the impression of a world where, for once, humankind is not entirely in control.

The Wild West

While Katavi’s far-flung and off-the-map quality is its most impressive drawcard, that is not to suggest that the wildlife sightings are not jaw-dropping in their own right. As already mentioned, Katavi truly comes into its own as a safari destination during the dry season. As the grass turns golden, the vanishing water turns the park into an extravaganza of nature at her most raw. This region boasts Tanzania’s highest densities of hippos and crocodiles – obviously species entirely dependent upon the presence of water. Yet, both have adapted to survive the annual disappearance of their preferred habitat for months at a time. Pods of hippos pack themselves into mud wallows by the hundreds, desperately seeking protection from the blazing sun. Social though hippos may be, hundreds of two-tonne animals crowded together are bound to cause the odd neighbourly feud and fights between bulls are especially common. During this spectacle, the resultant photographic opportunities are renowned for their bleak representation of nature’s savagery. Somewhat sensibly, the crocodiles prefer to avoid these Brobdingnagian mosh pits. Instead, they crowd into caves on the riverbanks, slithering over each other for a prime spot and entering a state of dormancy to wait out the dry season.

Bloats of hippos numbering in the hundreds are a common sight in Katavi during the dry season

The more land-based creatures of Katavi are also forced to congregate around the drying water points, and the profusion of wildlife on display from May until October is an impressive sight. The Katavi region is known for its massive herds of buffaloes and numerous elephants, and hosts robust populations of lions, painted wolves (wild dogs), cheetahs, and hyenas. Elands gather in large herds in certain parts of the park, and fortunate visitors could be lucky enough to spot both roan and sable antelopes.

Over 400 bird species have been recorded. Naturally, most visitors are looking to take advantage of the mammal displays of the dry season, which does not equate with the best birding opportunities that Katavi offers. Instead, the best time for bird watching in the park is when the migrant species return to “summer” in Katavi from November until April, coinciding with the arrival of the rains. During these months, the seasonal lakes fill, and floodplains revert to boggy marshland, making the waterbird viewing exceptional.

Wildlife in Katavi — Large gatherings of wildlife around the shallowing water points in the drier months provide astonishing displays

Explore & Stay

Want to go on safari to Katavi? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

Though Katavi may be remote, the park and surrounds offer a small number of luxury lodges on par with grandeur and comfort found anywhere else in Africa. These beautiful camps are carefully positioned to take full advantage of the arid months, offering spectacular “armchair” wildlife viewing from the lodge decks between game drives. Unfortunately, most of the camps are closed for part of, if not all, of the rainy season from November until May, when the roads become sludgy, and parts of the park become totally inaccessible. For the more intrepid visitor, camping and self-drive through the park is an option, though it is essential to consider the journey to get there (measured in days rather than hours). Most visitors opt to fly into the Ikuu airstrip – a three-hour flight from Dar es Salaam.

Accommodation in Katavi — Chada Katavi is a luxurious option when exploring the park, and Mbali Mbali offers a comfortable, remote experience away from regular tourist routes

Parting thoughts

In the heart of Katavi National Park, near Lake Katavi, an innocuous-looking tamarind tree holds a deep spiritual meaning. Here, the Bende and Pimbwe people believe that the spirit of Katabi – a great hunter – has taken up residence, and he looks out across the mountains where his wife, Wamweru, resides. Katavi was named for Katabi, the hunter-spirit, and it is believed that gifts and offerings placed at the base of the tree will bring good fortune and blessings. The local people are seemingly content to share the favours of Katabi, and visitors are encouraged to leave behind their gifts to the precious tree.

This gem of cultural history is just one part of what makes the Katavi experience so raw and intense – an awareness of both the power of nature and our intimate, intuitive connection to it. With her seasonal foibles and dramatic interplay of life and death, untrammelled Katavi is genuinely one of Tanzania’s best-kept secrets.

Giraffe in Katavi — Katavi’s camps are carefully positioned to take full advantage of the surroundings

Comment – teamAG – Friday 18 March 2022

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Best photos + top painted wolf spots + Japan’s illegal ivory

Once in a blue moon, a safari opportunity comes along that awakens the ESSENCE of me. As if someone has stuck a big spoon into my soul and stirred every raw nerve, every instinctive impulse.

I had, of course, heard of Chitake, but THESE IMAGES & VIDEO became the stirring spoon, and I took more notice. Then my colleague Nadia spent a few days there and came back with stories of sleepless nights because of the loud nocturnal battles between lions and their targets – buffaloes and elephants. She is an experienced guide with tons of bush time – and not prone to exaggeration. Her final summation: ‘Next level.’

And so we crafted this safari. The first group of six sold out in hours, and we have four places left on the second (and only other) group. This safari is not about rim-flow pools and crystal champagne flutes – it’s in-your-face primal Africa. Here be dragons …

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

When teamAG isn’t out finding the best safaris, we’re at our desks packaging them for delivery to you. So we too have time to develop travel FOMO. Especially when we’re choosing (and reliving) Africa’s 6 painted wolf hotspots – see our first story below. For me, it’s Kruger. For Simon, the vital population of Khwai, and for Jamie, the famous canids of Mana Pools.

Our third story brings you the week’s best photos, where you can visit the otherworldly Danakil Depression and the tuskers of Amboseli.

By contrast, images of raw ivory from Japan’s legal market, which commoditises elephants and conceals illegal international trade, bring a stark reality home. Our second story below refers.

Send us your thoughts (join the club to comment)!
Happy celebrating Africa to you all.

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

At the top of your newsletter, the photograph features the glorious sandstone Chilojo Cliffs, Gonarezhou National Park’s most famous landmark. Below them flows the Runde River on its way to the confluence with the Save River and then a meandering journey of over 300km to the Indian Ocean. Why do I mention this? Because Zambezi sharks are regularly recorded at the confluence.

Did you know that the Zambezi shark (bull shark) thrives in both salt and fresh water? These are not just brief forays upriver into estuaries either – they have been known to travel as far as 1,100km from the ocean up the Mississippi River and 4,000km up the Amazon River into Peru. These are usually gravid females searching for a safe place to give birth. So a short trip to landlocked Zimbabwe is nothing for a shark with travel FOMO.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/the-6-top-places-to-see-painted-wolves/
PAINTED WOLF
Here are the 6 top spots in Africa to scout for wild dogs

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/japan-an-illegal-ivory-traders-haven-new-report/
ILLEGAL IVORY
Japan’s domestic ivory market has created a haven for illegal traders – new report

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-6/
BEST PHOTOS
Our selection from this week’s magnificent Photographer of the Year entries

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Kick back, turn up the volume and let this video from Quatermain’s 1920s Safari Camp wash over you and awaken your need to get back in touch with who you really are. Visit our collection of camps and lodges to find the best prices at this and other outstanding safari establishments.

WATCH: Epic aerial footage of African landscapes you are dying to visit (0:58). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 6

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week

On the dry lake beds of Amboseli, a breeding herd leaves its night-time resting spot to head to the marshes. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Sam Hankss

Satisfaction. A satiated cheetah takes a break after a meal. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Aarti Shah

The volcanic chemicals of otherworldly Dallol decorate hydrothermal ponds trapped amongst ancient coral reefs and salty minerals. Danakil Depression, Ethiopia. © Hesté de Beer

After the breeding season, Lake Bogoria’s alkaline waters are a haven for almost a million lesser flamingos – more than a quarter of the global population of these birds. Kenya. © XIAOCHENGUANG

The new king of Liuwa Plain strides across the vast landscape. Liuwa Plain National Park, Zambia. © Andrew Macdonald

Once plentiful, only a few remaining super tuskers roam Amboseli National Park today. Here, super tusker Craig towers above the camera, with Mount Kilimanjaro in neighbouring Tanzania seen in the distance. Kenya. © Dewald Tromp

A lion cub takes a break from rolling in the grass after suckling. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Dirk Johnen

Playtime for two young elephant calves. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Gabriela Staebler

Eyes on the prize. A cheetah sets her laser-focused sights on a Thomson’s gazelle. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Jenny Zhao

A trader from the Afar Triangle, bound for Mekele, packs his camel with slabs of salt mined from one of the Earth’s hottest places. Here, Red Sea floods 30,000 years ago created one of the world’s richest salt deposits. Danakil Depression, Ethiopia. © Hesté de Beer

Remarkable patterns of tracks criss-cross the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans. Occasional small herds of wildebeest and zebra cross the expanse to take advantage of the more nutritious grasses sprouting on the edge of the pans. Botswana. © James Gifford

Back to black. Grey crowned cranes perch in front of two black rhinos. Kenya. © Yaron Schmid

Mega-gardener of the forest. The straighter, downward-pointing tusks of the smaller forest elephant distinguish it from the savannah elephant. These elephants play a crucial role in dispersing many tree species in their last strongholds in West and Central Africa. Loango National Park, Gabon. © Lynn Gindorff

Head’s up! A Nile crocodile feasts on the head of a badly decomposed antelope. Thornybush Game Reserve, South Africa. © Matthew Holland

A black-backed jackal takes a dove by surprise at Polentswa waterhole. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Michiel Duvenhage

Sunrise silhouette of a mating pair of lions in the Maasai Mara National Reserve. Kenya. © Jenny Zhao

Samburu moran (warrior), Sam, at Ololokwe Mountain. This sacred desert mountain holds cultural significance for the Samburu tribe. Kenya. © Mojgan Arashvand

A Cape cobra attempts to devour a small leopard tortoise near Dikbaardskolk waterhole. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Pierre Rossouw

The drama is tangible when witnessing a hippo brawl from the bow of a boat. Chobe River, Botswana. © Antionette Morkel

A family of elephants, bothered by a bull in musth not far behind, crosses the plains below Mount Kilimanjaro. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Sam Hankss

An early morning scuffle in Amboseli National Park. Kenya. © Thorsten Hanewald

A Suri woman wears a unique lip plate featuring a hollow centre. Omo Valley, Ethiopia. © Hesté de Beer

Long in the tooth. A Nile crocodile’s mouth is filled with up to 68 sharply pointed teeth. Chobe River, Botswana. © Trix Jonker

The 6 top places to see painted wolves

A sighting of African painted wolves (wild dogs) is one of the most exhilarating safari experiences and a guaranteed highlight for guests. From their frenetic hunts to playful pack time, these lithe and athletic predators present true poetry in motion. But, unfortunately, they are also one of Africa’s most endangered carnivores.

Looking for the best place to see them in the wild? Here’s a list of our top six favourite painted-wolf destinations:

Want to see wild dogs on an African safari? We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or let us build one just for you.

1. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe

The wild dogs of Mana Pools National Park recently rose to prominence as the star characters in the BBC series, Dynasties. Yet, for those in the know, the national park and surrounds have long been recognised as one of the best places in Africa to see these charismatic canids.

What makes Mana a particularly fabulous destination for viewing painted wolves is that visitors can walk without a guide. Regular encounters have ensured that the painted wolves are unusually comfortable with people on foot.

It is important to remember that this is a privilege, not a right, and the African painted wolves should be treated with absolute respect. Keep noise to a minimum, set up a comfortable distance and enjoy the magic of this truly unique experience.

2. Northern Botswana

Most of Northern Botswana, including Khwai Private Reserve, Chobe National Park and the Okavango Delta, is prime habitat for wild dogs and a vital population stronghold for these carnivores. The combined landscape of protected areas provides these ever-moving hunters with the space they need. As the river systems ebb and flow, painted wolves charge across the flood plains to chase down their abundant prey.

Painted wolf in Khwai — A pack photographed in Khwai Private Reserve, northern Botswana

3. Madikwe Game Reserve, South Africa

Since their translocation to Madikwe Game Reserve in 1994, African painted wolves have become the unofficial mascot of this arid, malaria-free reserve tucked away in northern South Africa, close to the Botswana border. Though their path to success has not always been easy, the wolves are now well established, and the sparse Madikwe vegetation makes it easier to keep an eye on their antics.

Wild dogs in Madikwe — The frenzy after the hunt in Madikwe Game Reserve

4. Luangwa Valley, Zambia

Home to the largest painted wolf population in Zambia, Luangwa Valley stands out as a conservation success story where these tie-dyed predators are concerned. During the dry season, Luangwa’s multitudinous herbivores gather around the life-giving Luangwa River and painted wolves take full advantage of the buffet on offer. The floodplains set the stage for thrilling displays of athleticism as the energetic canids hurtle after antelope or reaffirm their pack bonds with a game of tag and tumble.

Painted wolf at Luangwa River — A wild dog on the banks of the Luangwa River above a colony of carmine bee-eaters

5. Greater Kruger, South Africa

Bucking the overall population trend, the Kruger’s painted-wolf population is not declining and may even be steadily increasing. In Kruger National Park, use the sighting boards in camp and chat to park guides to get up-to-date information on recent reliable hotspots. Alternatively, a stay at one of the private reserves and lodges in Greater Kruger during the denning season (typically winter: June until August) will ensure unbeatable sightings of the pups emerging to take in their new world, much to the joy of the rest of the pack.

A painted wolf in Kruger National Park — Feeling playful in Kruger National Park

6. Laikipia, Kenya

Known for its exclusive safari experiences and exceptional record for protecting endangered species, vast Laikipia county is almost entirely covered by private and community conservancies, creating a large habitat for painted wolves to roam.

The Kenyan conservancy model gives its visitors glorious freedom, allowing any visit to be tailored to specific interests. Want to tag along with a research team tasked with monitoring the painted wolves? Though not always a guaranteed option, Laikipia is an excellent place to start.

Never a dull moment

Given their fast-paced lives, keeping up with painted wolves can present something of a challenge, but the reward is well worth the effort involved. With their boundless vitality, astonishing altruism and unmistakable wet-dog smell (with a tinge of something vaguely goat-like), there is never a dull moment when African painted wolves come bounding by.

Want to go on a safari to seek wild dogs? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

Resources

Read more on the rebranding of ‘wild dogs’ to ‘painted wolves’.

For more on their biology see 5 facts on wild dogs and read about 11 fascinating canid species.

For more on African painted wolf conservation, read about a new pack released into Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park and about their return to Gorongosa after decades of absence.

Read about a proposed theory of change that could increase painted wolf populations across Africa.

For more photos of the three packs of painted wolves featured in BBC’s Dynasties, check out the book Painted Wolves: A Wild Dog’s Life by Nicholas Dyer and Peter Blinston. The book can be purchased here.

Tell us about your favourite wild dog destinations:

Japan: An illegal ivory trader’s haven – new report

Japan is failing to regulate its domestic ivory market, resulting in the perfect cover for illegally imported ivory and a supply source for illegal export. This is according to a new report compiled by the non-profit organisation, the Japan Tiger and Elephant Fund (JTEF). The report challenges the Government of Japan’s (GoJ) claim that “Japan has been implementing stringent measures to ensure that its domestic ivory market is not contributing to poaching or illegal trade”, calling it “flawed and unjustified”.

In 2016, the state parties to the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) adopted a resolution calling for those member states with a legal domestic ivory market to take urgent measures to close the commercial trade. Three years later, at the next Conference of the Parties, those states (including Japan) that opted not to do so were requested to report to the Secretariat on the measures taken to ensure that these domestic ivory markets were not contributing to poaching or illegal trade.

Japan remains the world’s most significant open ivory market. In response to the CITES request, the Government of Japan issued a firm assurance that these measures were in place, pointing to controls such as the stringent oversight of dealership registration, the compulsory registration of whole tusks and the use of carbon dating to determine tusk origin. However, the comprehensive 22-page report from the JTEF gives detailed examples of how these measures have failed in their supposed purpose.

In summary, findings of the JTEF report include:

The persistent illegal ivory exports from Japan result from the country’s authorised legal market selling many different ivory items.
The compulsory registration of ivory dealers (or renewal thereof) should involve a rigorous examination of eligibility – something the Government of Japan claims is done. However, the JTEF contends that this examination is, in reality, non-existent and does not preclude the registration of problematic dealers.
The requirement to register all whole tusks was successfully bypassed as registered dealers simply cut them into pieces and processed them into Hanko (traditional signature stamps).
The use of carbon dating to increase scrutiny for whole tusk registration came too late, and a vast number of tusks with unknown origin and acquisition have been legalised and entered the market.
Despite assurances of traceability, the report indicates that there is no official verification on the legality of origin and acquisition at the point of production for ivory cut pieces and products, making traceability impossible.
Closing the domestic legal market may be the only way to eliminate the significant trade loopholes.
The influence of Japan’s buoyant domestic ivory market on the international community’s goal of preventing illegal international ivory trade should not be downplayed.

Semi-processed ivory pieces observed at indoor antiques fairs in Tokyo and Kyoto; Display of ivory items at a shop in Tokyo’s tourist areas; Raw ivory displayed at an auction house; Newly manufactured ivory products found at two shops in Tokyo’s major tourist areas

Each chapter of the report is dedicated to one of the measures supposedly set to prevent Japan’s legal market from contributing to the illegal trade in ivory. For example, the first chapter delves into how, despite “rigorous examination”, dealership registration is granted or renewed for kingpins in the ivory market, even when these companies have a recent-track record of illegal ivory trade.

The second chapter deals with the requirement for all whole tusks to be registered before they are involved in any transactions. The registration process requires identifying each tusk’s legal origin and acquisition. According to the JTEF, the dealers predicted the 2019 tightening of tusk registration ahead of time. Given that the law only requires that whole tusks are registered, traders rushed to take advantage of the loophole by cutting registered and unregistered tusks. Unregistered stockpiles are posed as registered stockpiles using the registration cards of those already consumed.

The report also claims that carbon dating to examine tusks upon registration was intentionally delayed. As a result, tusks of unknown but questionable origin were legalised and entered the market before carbon-dating analysis may have exposed their background.

The report challenges the Government of Japan’s claims that stringent measures are in place to ensure its domestic ivory market is not contributing to poaching or illegal trade

The authors of the JTEF report conclude that not only has the Government of Japan failed to regulate the domestic ivory market, but these failures are systemic and consistent and have left the market open to the illegal trade in tusks. They call upon Japan to end all ivory trade as a matter of urgency, stating that the “stockpile is vast and the market remains tireless”.

A few weeks after the release of the JTEF report, the Standing Committee of CITES agreed that countries must continue to report on their domestic ivory markets. The EU has also called for an analysis of whether ivory seizures connected to countries that have not closed their domestic ivory markets may influence illegal international trade – a call echoed by Gabon.

Resources

For more on the extent of Japan’s ivory trade, you can watch the video of shocking evidence of Japan’s dirty ivory trade.

For more on how ivory Hanko stamps became popular, read Elephant ivory and the Japanese Hanko stamp.

And finally, read about how TRAFFIC and the WWF have also called for the closure of Japan’s ivory market.

The full report from the Japan Tiger and Elephant Fund can be accessed here: Sakamoto, M., (2022), ‘Japan’s Tireless Ivory Market: A Trader’s Haven Free of Strict Control‘, Japan Tiger and Elephant Fund.

Comment – teamAG – Friday 11 March 2022

Cape clawless otters frolic in the coastal waters of Vermont, Western Cape, South Africa.

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Epic pics + Central Kalahari magic + entertaining otters

Such Disneyfied drama!

Fig, a confiding and beloved leopardess from a conservancy bordering the Maasai Mara, is no more – killed by a male lion. I can imagine how traumatic this must have been for the guests and guides that bore witness. And yet this PRIMAL process plays itself out all over wild Africa, in so many ways.

One gent, a respected photographer and local lodge owner, was so upset about the manner of Fig’s demise that he threw himself into a rather dramatic Facebook post. He described the lion as “a brutal alpha male” that “invaded a small unthreatening enclave“. On the lion’s behaviour, he commented that the “leonine tyrant savaged its innocent prey in an unprovoked, unnecessary and seemingly unwarranted attack“. Fig was described thus: “She was our bank, inspiration, figurehead, and confidant. She was our Zelensky.”

Stepping aside from the peculiar reference to the Ukraine situation, reactions like this from a person of influence in response to nature behaving normally emphasize the ongoing Disneyfication of real life in Africa. CELEBRATE Fig and mourn her, but never ever condemn nature for doing her thing. Drops the mic

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Is there a right way to photograph people?

A few of this week’s Photographer of the Year entries capture intimate human moments around the continent – allowing visceral views into diverse cultures and sparking introspection in the AG office. When is photographing people intrusive? Where is the line drawn between respectfully representing a complex situation, or reducing it to a one-sided, simplistic narrative? Is it invasive to position one’s lens amidst a Maasai circumcision ceremony or a Boloye dance – or does this depend on the circumstances in which a subject agrees to be photographed?

Our consensus in the office is reflected in our guidelines for submissions. Authenticity is key. Permission: essential. And the subject’s understanding of the potential exposure a photograph’s journey can bring: vital. The results can be wonderful – images that enlighten through education, stirring the viewer’s understanding of the world and expanding horizons. A single image can ignite action and change history. And it can bring inspirational Africa straight to you, our AG family. We’d love to hear your thoughts on this – comment on our Photographer of the Year entries via our first story below (join the club to comment).

For a bit of escapism this week, our second story below takes you to the wildlife-dotted plains of Kalahari Central Game Reserve. Read about this remote part of Botswana, which calls to the most rough and ready of adventurers. Happy indulging in Africa to you all!

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Every story has its villain, and nature is no different when trying to force it into a neat narrative. Vilification is inevitable when animals don’t conform to our moral expectations. It’s peculiar, the disparate values people assign different species – a lion killing a buffalo is exciting, a lion killing a leopard is a tragedy, a lion killing lion cubs is an abomination. (All often discussed in horror over a steak or pork chop dinner.)

But did you know that scientists have traced the neural pathways of infanticide? Their results are not all that straightforward, but, in essence, aggressive acts towards young of the same species (like infanticide) are mediated by regions of the brain entirely separate from those associated with other types of aggression. This behaviour is pure instinct and is therefore simply part of the natural way of things. And we cannot cherry-pick the aspects of nature we choose to appreciate…

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-5/
EPIC PICS
Celebrate Africa’s people and wildlife in our Week 5 selection of Photographer of the Year shots. Submit your entries now.

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/central-kalahari-game-reserve/
CENTRAL KALAHARI
Botswana’s Central Kalahari Game Reserve is a true wilderness that casts a spell on her visitors

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

MOUNTAIN GORILLA TREKKING is always a favourite bucket-list choice amongst our safari clients. We have our popular 3-day gorilla trekking safari in Rwanda for the time-pressured traveller. Prices are excellent, even more so for SADC tourists. It’s time to tick this one off your list …

TIPPING – when to tip and how much? Now that the go-on-safari surge is gaining momentum, we address this perennial source of angst amongst travellers. Here then, are a few tips about tipping.

WATCH: The illegal trade in African grey parrots is facilitated by traders using social media – as presented by BBC Click. This documentary features club member World Parrot Trust – Africa. Watch this portion 02:01 – 11:15

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 5

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week

Namaqua sandgrouse on lift off at Bedinkt Waterhole. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Michiel Duvenhage

A hippo lies motionless in the mud during a hot day. The hippo’s fine epidermis renders its skin extremely sensitive to direct sunlight. Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda. © Andrei Daniel Mihalca

Flamingo affection at Rocherpan Nature Reserve. West Coast, South Africa. © Leon Labuschagne

Two of Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park’s oldest cheetah females (sisters born in 2011), both accompanied by litters of sub-adult cubs, cooperatively hunt a gemsbok calf. South Africa. © Mark Kaptein

A toktokkie beetle feeds on a dragonfly in the Namib desert. Namibia. © Antionette Morkel

A Cape sugarbird flies over a protea after feeding on its sweet nectar. Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, Cape Town, South Africa. © Braeme Holland

A member of the nomadic Fulani tribe from West Africa displays face tattoos and characteristic adornments. Republic of Benin. © Mojgan Arashvand

Zenabu, also a member of the Fulani Tribe, displays the tattoos which indicate the diversity within small groups of this region in the norther parts of Benin. Republic of Benin. © Mojgan Arashvand

Three blue wildebeest engage in a fierce battle. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Dominique Maree

A cheetah family slows down for a quiet moment of nursing. Every few days the mother must move her cubs to avoid predators. This female has been collared for monitoring purposes. Marataba, Marakele National Park, South Africa. © Francoise Fourie

A Suri woman with decorated ear plate and large lip plate. The size of the lip plate indicates the number of cattle required for a Suri woman’s dowry. Omo Valley, Ethiopia. © Hesté de Beer

The wild, athletic movements of a ‘panther man’ dancing a Boloye dance. Côte d’Ivoire. © Inger Vandyke

A young Maasai boy’s face is painted during the Elatim circumcision ceremony. Tanzania. © Lewi Haskins

Male southern masked weavers having a spat at a hide near Bloemfontein. Free State, South Africa. © Michiel Duvenhage

Cape fur seals gather where the Namib Desert and the Atlantic Ocean meet. Namibia. © Anne-Françoise Tasnier

Through a glass darkly. These young giraffe and guardians seem to forge a mirror image on a ridge in Maasai Mara National Reserve. Kenya. © Millie Kerr

A *Nephila* spider (golden-orb web spider) snacks on a fly. Harare, Zimbabwe. © Tiffany Duncan

Strawberry anemones have the ability to glow if subjected to UV light. Fluorescence absorbs high-energy light and re-emits it as low-energy light. Partridge Point Dive Site in False Bay, South Africa. © Peet J van Eeden

The owner of these dromaderies ‘conducts’ his camels as they drink from a well dug to water passing caravans between the ancient Ksours of Oualata and Tichitt. From here, the caravans leave for Mali, Côte d’Ivoire and Burkina Faso to transport harvested salt. Mauritania. © Romain Miot

A male lion showing a flehmen response while doing his morning rounds. This often takes place when a lion sniffs and smells the urine of another. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Sharlene Cathro

A Cape sugarbird perches amongst colourful blooming common mimetes. Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, Cape Town, South Africa. © Braeme Holland

Central Kalahari Game Reserve

The Kalahari casts a spell upon her visitors – the kind of magic that can only be experienced first-hand. It is partly to do with a sense of space, a true wilderness stretching as far as the eye can see, both untamed and austerely beautiful. Yet, there is an element to the mystery of its allure, creating a tantalising combination of the immediate and the timeless. At the heart of this vast stretch of sand lies Botswana’s rugged Central Kalahari Game Reserve, where travellers can refresh world-weary souls beneath the cool blaze of the Milky Way.

The reserve and surrounds

As the name clearly implies, the Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR) is situated smack in the middle of Botswana at the centre of the Kalahari Basin. Descriptors such as “vast” or “extensive” fail to do justice to the sheer scale of this enormous reserve, which extends over 52,800km² (over five million hectares) of arid bushveld. Along its boundaries, several private conservancies have successfully converted former farmland back to its original state and the protected area is further supplemented by the 2,500km² (250,000 hectares) Khutse Game Reserve to the south.

The word “Kalahari” shares its etymology with “Kgalagadi”, likely drawn from the Tswana word “kgala”, which can be roughly translated to mean “thirst” or “to dry up”. Thus, Kalahari is interpreted as “land of great thirst” and Kgalagadi as “a waterless place”. Whatever the exact translation, the overtones are unmistakable – this is a land devoid of surface water, a harsh and inhospitable wilderness. Yet once again, this fails to encapsulate the complexity of this amazing landscape fully.

One of the Kalahari’s most iconic sights

The Kalahari Desert is technically more semi-desert (apart from the far southwestern portion) and encompasses several different types of habitats, including grasslands, scrubland, and rich arid savanna – all of which can be found within the CKGR. Throughout the reserve, there is evidence of a more bountiful time in the Kalahari’s history, when rainfall was more abundant and temperatures a little less extreme. Fossil riverbeds crisscross the reserve, the most famous of which is Deception Valley in the northeast corner, so named because of the mirage created over the surface of the salt pan.

Although the terrain may seem harsh, nature always finds a way to survive, and the CKGR is no exception. Though not necessarily as abundant as the Okavango and Chobe areas to the north, wildlife abounds in CKGR, from herds of antelope to the predators that have learnt to stalk them through the long grasses.

Fundamentals

For the most part, the remote CKGR attracts a certain kind of traveller. These hardy adventurers are the sort prepared for any eventuality, driving 4x4s packed to the brim with equipment, water, fuel and everything but the kitchen sink (and sometimes a makeshift kitchen sink). With the astonishing capacity to set up/dismantle a rooftop tent with the speed and efficiency befitting a Formula One pitstop crew, they revel in the unspoilt peace of the wild. They will readily assist the less experienced with only a faintly detectable hint of smugness.

Adventurous travellers will be at ease setting up camp in the open wilderness of the reserve

Though it is unnecessary to be such a dab-hand at overlanding, a self-drive stay in the CKGR cannot be approached without meticulous planning. There are no shops within the reserve, and sufficient food, fuel, firewood and water must be purchased beforehand (only one camp has running water, which is not always available). Fuel supplies should be gauged with the significant distances between four entrance gates and the various campsites in mind.

The roads alternate between thick sand and clay that turns into sludge during the short rainy season. Phone signal is non-existent, and visitor density is extremely low, so it is not uncommon to spend the day exploring without seeing another soul. The northern section of the park tends to be slightly busier and offers greater concentrations of wildlife. This may all sound somewhat intimidating, but the result is more than worth the effort. This is, without doubt, one of the wildest parts of Southern Africa. The immersion in nature is absolute, and it is pretty easy to imagine one has this wilderness entirely to oneself.

Not much can compare with the experience of sleeping in a tent, with just a slip of canvas between you and the black-maned lion roaring in your campsite – with miles between you and the nearest civilisation.

Still too much? Well, fear not, less intrepid travellers can still experience the magic of the Kalahari without having to worry about being self-sufficient. The reserve and surrounds are peppered with luxury lodges where guests can still revel in the beauty and isolation of the desert — more on this below.

The creatures of the Kalahari

A leonine visit in the middle of the night is a common campsite occurrence in the CKGR, but, as might be expected, there is an element of luck involved in all desert wildlife sightings, particularly where predators are concerned. However, lions, leopards, cheetahs and African painted wolves (wild dogs) are all resident, albeit in low densities compared to some of the northern parts of Botswana.

The famous black-maned lions of the Kalahari draw many visitors to CKGR

Elephants can and do move through the reserve. Still, sightings are few and far between, and elephant enthusiasts should visit the Okavango Delta, or head to Khwai or Chobe National Park for their pachyderm fix. The upshot of this is that CKGR is generally not marketed as a suitable option for the first time or once-off safari-goers looking for the ‘Big 5’ and other iconic safari wildlife. Yet, the African desert never disappoints those who appreciate animal marvels of every shape and size.

Elephants are a less common and thus more special sighting in the reserve

Brown hyenas slink through the ancient riverbeds and smaller carnivores like jackals, caracals and honey badgers are always a highlight. The families of bat-eared foxes are a source of constant entertainment, sporting ridiculously oversized ears and somewhat sardonic expressions, while charismatic meerkats forage through the undergrowth. The usual assortment of campsite opportunists – ground squirrels, hornbills, mongooses and spurfowls, for example – are always around and don’t be surprised to find one drinking your shower water next to your feet with zero regard for privacy.

The wide-open plains of the Kalahari make for striking wildlife sightings

First people of the Kalahari

The Kalahari is the ancestral homeland of various San peoples, the oldest human inhabitants of the region and collectively one of the most persecuted groups in Southern Africa. The Gana, Gwi and Tsila Bushmen (as they have expressly confirmed they prefer to be called) previously occupied the now CKGR region as nomadic hunter-gatherers. In fact, the reserve was initially established as a “place of sanctuary” for them during the 1960s.

However, a campaign to relocate the inhabitants began two decades later, culminating in forced removals to “resettlement camps” outside the park during the mid-1990s. The move was “justified” on conservation grounds but coincided with the discovery of diamonds in the southern section of the reserve. Though some of the Gana, Gwi and Tsila people have since won their legal battle to return to their ancestral homeland, returning to their old way of life has proved next to impossible. The legal conflict continues to this day in one of the most expensive court cases in Botswana’s history. (For a brief account of some of their hardships, read about the struggle of the Kalahari people.)

Central Kalahari Game Reserve — The CKGR experience – game drives, walks, cultural interactions with the subcontinent’s First People and iconic African animals.

One of the highlights for many travellers is to spend time with Bushmen, tracking or learning more about their cultures and traditions. The Gana, Gwi and Tsila Bushmen have a deep and intimate connection to their homeland, and these experiences can be highly educational. Though a complete account of the land conflict in Botswana is beyond the scope of this article, it is beholden upon visitors to bear this context in mind when visiting the reserve and interacting with those who call it home. It is also essential to research the various cultural programmes on offer to ensure that the Bushmen guides receive the proceeds of this tourism-generated revenue.

Desert Rose

Though there are no roses in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, the desert does bloom once a year. The fauna and flora of the Kalahari are all beautifully adapted to survive the pulse of the desert seasons, patiently awaiting the arrival of the rains. As storm clouds gather and lightning scythes through the sky, there is almost a palpable sigh of relief from the parched earth and inhabitants. The transformation is almost immediate and utterly breathtaking. The plants seize their chance before the greedy sand soaks up the water, bursting into life, covering the red dunes in shades of green and yellow.

The reserve comes alive in the rainy season

The salt pans of the north fill with water, and the herbivores gather in large numbers around the surrounding grass plains, forming impressive herds of giraffe, wildebeest, zebra, oryx, impala and springbok. Many give birth during the height of the green season, much to the delight of tourists and predators.

Explore & Stay

Want to go on safari to Central Kalahari Game Reserve? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

Very unusually, this desert rejuvenation means that the rainy season (between November and March) is the best time to visit the Central Kalahari Game Reserve or surrounding private conservancies. Though the afternoon thunderstorms can be disruptive to plans, they do help to take the edge off the summer heat. The only downside is that the clay soils turn into sludge, making driving conditions somewhat tricky. As expected, temperatures can be extreme, with boiling days and very chilly nights, especially during the dry season.

Luxury accommodation is available for those not willing to rough it on a self-drive 4X4 trip

There are several very basic campsites spread throughout the park, divided into state-run campsites and others that are privately operated. Generally, there is a trade-off between price and state of cleanliness/infrastructure that can be easily inferred from the above distinction. The luxury lodges offer the perfect alternative for those less keen on the necessary planning and potential pitfalls of self-drive. Of course, one of the significant advantages of going the lodge route is that the heat of the day can be spent dipping in and out of swimming pools looking out across the spectacular desert scenery!

The vast plains make for spectacular sunsets

Resources

A first-hand account of camping in CKGR – Camping in the Central Kalahari

Stunning photo gallery – The Dark Side of the Kalahari

Comment – teamAG – Friday 04 March 2022

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Best photos + stunning sundowner spots + new hunting quotas

South Africa has used specific scientific inputs to justify hunting quotas of 10 leopards, 10 black rhinos, and 150 elephants for this year. Some CONTEXT that shines a light on dubious ’science’ being applied by our Minister:

1. LEOPARDS (10): Zero hunting quotas were issued in 2016 & 2017 because SA’s scientific authority declared that the number of leopards in the country was UNKNOWN and that trophy hunting posed a high risk to the survival of the species. Seven quotas were granted in 2018, despite significant reductions in leopard populations – including in the provinces now deemed to have ‘stable or increasing’ populations, according to Minister Creecy. Fast forward to 2022, and the quota has increased to ten leopards thanks to ‘robust data’.

2. BLACK RHINOS (10): The Minister openly declares that South Africa has 2,000 black rhinos – to justify hunting ten (0,5%). And yet she refuses, for security reasons, to divulge how many rhinos remain in our national parks after rampant poaching. So each year, we have to dig that information up.

3. ELEPHANTS (150): She is silent on how many large-tusked elephants remain in South Africa – the favoured target for trophy hunters. Most of the 150 elephants will likely be hunted on the privately and community-owned reserves on the western border of Kruger National Park (there is no fence).

#украина

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor

There is balance in nature, but it’s not a pleasing, harmonious equilibrium. It’s struck through a never-ending ebb and flow. A win here, a desperate loss there. It’s not always pretty to watch. It can unfold in scenarios unsettling for even the most hardened conservationist. I can’t stop thinking about Shafeeq Mulla’s Photographer of the Year entry for this week: an infant vervet monkey clings to the lifeless body of its mother, clutched in the jaws of a leopard. Its fate hangs in the balance – a downbeat in the rhythm of the wild. Just one of many breathtaking photos in this week’s selection in our third story below.

I’m intrigued by the superstitions surrounding ground-hornbills – the bringers of rain and thunder – and how this translates, in some cases, to the fierce protection of these birds, and in others to their persecution. Read more about these iconic birds in our first story below.

Oh, to dig my toes into the sands of an unspoiled beach on the shores of Lake Malawi, cocktail in hand, as fishermen on mokoros drift by to beat the setting sun. Our selection of the top 10 sundowner spots in Africa in our second story will have you itching to escape on your next safari.

Happy indulging in Africa to you all.

From our Scientific Editor

Did you know that some bats like to roost in pit latrines? The industrious microbes working away on the objectionable contents generate heat, creating a cosy (if pungent) place for the bats to hide. The additional protection of the concrete slab also keeps predators at bay, ensuring a good day’s sleep for the toilet’s residents. The only thing they have to worry about is the occasional anthropogenic interruption.

A chance in-situ encounter with one such surprised bat (combined with the realisation that this phenomenon was absent from scientific literature) inspired further research. The findings were recorded in the African Journal of Ecology in a paper entitled “Like a bat out of hell“.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/southern-ground-hornbill-africas-rara-avis/
CHARISMATIC THUNDERBIRDS
The southern ground-hornbill is an endangered species that marks the dawn chorus with its haunting call

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/africas-10-most-sublime-sundowner-spots/
SUNDOWNER, ANYONE?
We reveal our top 10 sundowner spots in Africa – best enjoyed with exotic cocktails and snacks

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-4/
STUNNING PHOTOS
The fourth weekly selection of entries for Photographer of the Year 2022 is out now

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

The 2022 safari booking season has kicked off with a vengeance, and Africa’s wild places will once again soon be blessed with travellers – although still at lower volumes than prior to Covid. So if you have not yet booked your next safari with us, consider these gems:

Desert & delta safari – 11 days traversing the Okavango Delta, Chobe and Nxai Pan national parks (Botswana) and Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe). Mid-range and luxury itineraries available.

Our CEO’s choice. This is one for the experienced traveller wanting to do something completely different; a complete break from the clutter of modern-day life and Covid-era stresses. Search for lowland gorillas, bongos, forest elephants, dwarf crocodiles and flocks of grey parrots in the jungles and bais of the Odzala-Kokoua National Park in Congo.

And finally, this I-want-to-be-there video from The Outpost Lodge in the far north of Kruger National Park will have you ferreting out your dusty passport and packing your bags. Check out our app for the best prices at this and other camps & lodges throughout Africa.

WATCH: Free-roaming BLACK RHINOS are flourishing in Namibia – because rural people have an incentive to have them around (8:10). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 4

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week

A young crocodile snaps at an eland, grasping its nose but quickly losing its grip on the fortunate antelope. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Jens Cullmann

A boomslang preying on southern-masked weaver chicks is mobbed by a protective male. Ngala Private Game Reserve, Greater Kruger, South Africa. © Matt Walsh

Avoiding crocodiles in a mad dash across the Khwai River. Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana. © Alexis Castillo

Bob Marley (famed lion of the Maasai Mara), hunting a warthog in its burrow – soon after receiving a wound from the warthog’s tusk. After a long battle, he succeeded in the hunt. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Fizan Chaudhry

A juvenile malachite kingfisher catches a damselfly and proceeds to swallow it whole. Intaka Island Wetlands, Cape Town, South Africa. © Braeme Holland

A family of black-backed jackals unites just before sunset. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Charlene Bacchioni

A litter of cubs, fresh out of the den, disturbs a moment of peace. Samburu National Reserve, Kenya. © Sue Dougherty

Craig, a 50-year-old super tusker of Amboseli, strikes a pose. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © David Dhaen

A monitor lizard hides in a knothole, blending into the bark of the tree. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Faaiq Ebrahim Khan

A trick of the light as a hippo blows water from its nostrils. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Jens Cullmann

A lion cub rests between meals on the sun-scorched legs of his elephant meal. Savuti, Botswana. © Hannes Lochner

Trying to escape a cauldron of struggling wildebeest in the low water levels of the Mara River. Serengeti National Park, Tanzania. © Hesté de Beer

A bashful grey crowned crane – a regular at Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary – is done posing for the day. Uganda. © Piritta Paija

The herd leaves Chitake Springs in the early morning. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Jens Cullmann

A juvenile white-throated swallow encourages its parent to head out to find more food. Marievale Bird Sanctuary, South Africa. © John Mullineux

The herd stands on high alert as a cheetah passes by, seemingly unperturbed by their presence. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © David Dhaen

Standing tall in front of the apparition of Mount Kilimanjaro. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Kerry de Bruyn

Springboks hide in the shade of a tree at Etosha Pan. Etosha National Park, Namibia. © Markus Vetter

A red-necked falcon lands in the shallows. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Michiel Duvenhage

Heading out on an early morning prowl near Mata Mata Rest Camp. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Charlene Bacchioni

Mom’s legs provide safety while at the water for a drink. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Paul Crosland

A young shoebill photographed in Mabamba Swamp, near Entebbe. Uganda. © Piritta Paija

A haunting call cuts through the morning quiet. Moditlo Private Game Reserve, South Africa. © Reece Ferris

Risking life and limb on a straggling buffalo. Chitake Springs, Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Jens Cullmann

Clinging to the lifeless body of its mother, an infant vervet monkey’s fate hangs in the balance. South Luangwa National Park, Zambia. © Shafeeq Mulla

A mother gorilla, infant close behind her, seems at ease with her audience. Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda. © Sue Dougherty

A slender mongoose ventures out of hiding. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Terry Carew

Africa’s 10 most sublime sundowner spots

Cocktails anyone? Safari tradition dictates that the end of the day be celebrated with a traditional sundowner – and snacks, of course! – enjoyed as the last golden rays of the setting sun impart their hue to the surrounding wilderness. Whether accompanied by designer G&Ts, local brews/wines, or some ice-cold water for the somewhat sunburned, there is no doubt that Africa boasts some of the planet’s best places to watch the sun go down.

Want to go on safari to one of these sublime spots? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

Here is a list of some of our favourite sundowner spots, and why (in no particular order):

1. The Oloololo Escarpment, Maasai Mara, Kenya

Enjoying a sundowner as darkness falls over the Oloololo escarpment, the plains of the Maasai Mara below

The Oloololo Escarpment rises sharply 300 metres above the plains of Maasai Mara, affording visitors an extraordinary view of the serpentine path of the Mara River. If you are a fan of classic films, you might recognise this spectacular vantage as the one seen in the film Out of Africa. Recreate your own African romance and celebrate the spectacle that is the Great Migration. Take a moment to breathe, take a step back, and quite literally see the “big picture”.

2. Sossusvlei, Namib-Naukluft National Park, Namibia

The dying embers of the day over the Namib-Naukluft

The stark beauty of this salt and clay pan at the heart of the Namib-Naukluft National Park lies in the towering cerise dunes – some of the world’s largest. The rich, soft sand that has drifted in over the centuries begins to glow as the sun sets while the barking geckos begin their evening chorus. It is time to settle back with a sundowner and watch the rise of arguably the best stargazing display in Africa.

3. Victoria Falls Zimbabwe (or Zambia)

The sunset through the mists of Victoria Falls

The world-famous Victoria Falls marks the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. As the mighty Zambezi tumbles down over 100 metres, it throws up a spray that can, on occasion, be seen for kilometres. At dusk the descending peace allows you to consider what David Livingstone must have felt when he first laid eyes on the world’s largest waterfall.

4. Ngorongoro Crater, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania

A magical evening in the Ngorongoro Crater

At the centre of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area lies the Crater – the largest intact caldera in the world – surrounded by a rim that rises 2,300 meters above the grasslands below. Almost all Africa’s iconic animals, including the Big 5 and beyond, shelter in this geological cradle. Where better to appreciate the ancient geological forces that shaped East Africa than from the rim of a massive, extinct volcano? It’s a bit like stepping back in time to a lost world (but with readily available drinks).

5. Naga stream, Odzala-Kokoua National Park, the Republic of Congo

A refreshing drink after a day of forest trekking

Odzala-Kokoua National Park, rich in biodiversity, lies in the northern reaches of the Republic of the Congo and protects an enormous expanse of pristine Central African rainforest. Its many streams tumble their way through the trees before draining into the swampy forest baïs. Okay, so this is less about the sunset (the most you will see are some golden shafts filtering through the trees) and more about the atmosphere befitting a life-changing sundowner, soaking tired feet after a day spent with lowland gorillas.

6. Chobe River, Chobe National Park, Botswana

The Chobe River, the lifeblood of Chobe National Park, marks the border between Botswana and Namibia before its confluence with the Zambezi River to the east. A sundowner is, in theory, meant to be a relaxing experience, but the sense of anticipation as thirsty wildlife approaches the water’s edge in the day’s final moments adds another dimension to your sundowner.

7. Lake Malawi, Malawi

A fisherman makes his way home on Lake Malawi

Lake Malawi/Lake Nyasa is an African Great Lake – the southernmost lake in the East African Rift System and the fifth-largest freshwater lake in the world. The shores are lined by unspoiled sandy beaches, and below the surface, over 1,000 different freshwater fishes dart between the rocks. Why Lake Malawi? Because beaches, sunsets and cocktails are a winning combination.

8. Lanner Gorge, Makuleke Contractual Park, Kruger, South Africa

This magnificent viewpoint marks the border between the magical Makuleke Contractual Park and the Kruger National Park. Here the Luvuvhu River has carved a winding path through the sandstone to create a breathtaking gorge that is over 150 metres deep at some points. The views from the lookout point provide the perfect spot to ponder what life must have been like for the people of Africa’s ancient civilizations 900 years ago.

9. Luangwa River, South Luangwa, Zambia

The perfect way to end a day on the Luangwa River

Life in the Luangwa Valley centres around the Luangwa River and the rich floodplains that spill over into the surrounding savannahs and woodlands. South Luangwa is the largest of the valley’s four national parks and is renowned for the enormous herds of elephants and buffalos that congregate along the riverbanks. After an adrenaline-tinged day of walking in Big 5 country, soaking your feet in the cool waters of the Luangwa River is the perfect way to decompress.

10. Wherever you are, Africa

Sunset is a gorgeous time of the day anywhere in Africa

Wherever you might find yourself in Africa, enjoying the beach, sitting with sleepy lions, decompressing after a walking safari. Stay there. Take a moment, look up and appreciate the unique display nature has prepared for you.

We’ve shown you ours, and now it’s your turn. Tell us about your favourite sundowner spot or memory by logging in to our app and commenting below this story. Details on how to get the app can be found below.

Southern ground-hornbill – Africa’s rara avis

Nothing quite compares to the moment that morning breaks over the African bushveld. Through the strident calls of francolins, kingfisher trills, and melodious cuckoos cuts a low, booming sound – a primitive, hollow and deeply evocative duet that brings to mind an ancient instrument. It is the voice of Africa’s thunderbird: the southern ground-hornbill. This charismatic bird is one of Africa’s most iconic bird species. And the dawn chorus would simply not be the same without the haunting sound of the thunderbird.

The basics

The southern ground-hornbill (Bucorvus leadbeateri) is the largest member of the hornbill family by far – a stocky bird around the size of a wild turkey, weighing anywhere between 2.0 to 6.2kg. Other than the fringe of white primary feathers on the edges of their wings, they are almost entirely clad in plumage of glossy ebony feathers. Their faces are characterised by vivid patches of bare crimson skin, giving the vague impression that they have been smacked in the face by an overripe tomato. Adult females can be easily distinguished by a patch of violet-blue skin below the beak that extends down the throat. Though these bright patches likely play a significant role in intraspecies communication, recent research has shown that, along with the casque (an extension of the maxilla bone on the beak), these wattles play a role in thermoregulation.

Ground-hornbills can and do fly – surprisingly gracefully for such large birds – but spend 70% of their days on the ground (hence the name). Their fierce yellow-green eyes are lined by a thick layer of long eyelashes that help to protect them from dust, sticks, and other risky realities of life spent foraging at ground level. Ground-hornbills are fierce avian apex predators, feeding on everything from snakes to small mammals. They use a combination of robust, scaly legs and a mighty beak to subdue prey. Though often described as omnivorous, most research indicates that they are almost exclusively carnivorous, with the bulk of their diet consisting of arthropods.

Ground-hornbills live in highly territorial groups that occupy individual ranges of 100-250km2 (depending on the type of habitat and quality of resources available). The consequence of this is that, despite a relatively large distribution across 16 countries in Southern and East Africa and parts of Central Africa, they occur at relatively low densities. They are among the continent’s most threatened birds and are allocated an overall classification of “vulnerable” on the IUCN Red List. Southern ground-hornbills belong to the Bucorvus genus along with their close relatives, Abyssinian ground-hornbill (Bucorvus abyssinicus) of northern sub-Saharan Africa and West Africa.

A ground-hornbill with a grizzly scrub hare meal

Quick facts

Length: 90–129cm
Wingspan: 1.2–1.8m
Mass: Females: 2.2–4.6kg / Males: 3.5–6.2kg
Social structure: Cooperative breeding groups, usually with a dominant breeding pair
Breeding season: The wet season (between late October and March in Southern Africa)
Life expectancy: Around 40–50 years in the wild, up to 70 in captivity!

Birds of a feather

Southern ground-hornbills are obligate cooperative breeders – the largest known cooperative breeding bird in the world. They live in groups of up to twelve individuals, usually consisting of the breeding pair and male helpers from previous clutches. These (typically male) offspring delay dispersal for years to help care for future generations. Though female offspring may remain with the parents for a few years, only one adult female is tolerated in a group, and breeding is strictly between the breeding pair. This babysitting and caregiving experience is a vital learning curve – individuals that do not have around six years of helper experience do not breed successfully upon maturity.

Caregiving is offered to both the mother and chick once it hatches. The female will nest in a deep hollow of large trees (they are particularly picky on that subject, more below) at the start of the rainy season and lay between one and three eggs. Unlike other smaller hornbill species, she does not close herself off from the outside world, but the males of the group will keep her fed and protected while she incubates the eggs for just over 40 days. She remains with the newly hatched chick for another month while her bevvy of helpers flurries backwards and forwards with tasty snacks for mum and baby.

Though the female almost always lays more than one egg, only one chick will survive more than a few days, with either active or passive siblicide being a common occurrence. The adults will ignore the younger siblings, even when food is abundant, leading researchers to hypothesise that these eggs are simply an “insurance policy” if the first doesn’t hatch.

Southern ground-hornbills are extremely slow to mature and take more than two months to fledge fully. Even then, the juveniles remain dependent on their parents and older siblings for at least another year, if not two. As a result of this extremely high level of parental investment, it is not uncommon for breeding pairs to only produce one chick every three years.

These juveniles can be easily picked out of a group because the bare patches around the eyes, throat and face are grey. For the next six years, this skin will gradually transform to yellow, mottled orange and eventually red as the bird reaches maturity between six and seven years old. Even then, though the bird is likely sexually mature, they are unlikely to breed for several more years.

The distinctive wing feathers of the ground-hornbill

Long live the ground-hornbill

Southern ground-hornbills (and Abyssinian ground-hornbills) tick many boxes that make a species particularly vulnerable to steep population declines. They are a long-lived species that require high levels of parental care and take years to mature and produce offspring of their own. Even then, only one chick is forthcoming every three years – their reproduction rate is low. This is a similar problem to that experienced in species like rhinos or elephants. However, while those large mammal species have relatively low natural mortality rates, ground-hornbill chicks are exceptionally vulnerable during fledging. (They do, however, have very high natural survival rates once they reach adulthood.)

Ground-hornbills almost exclusively nest in the hollows of large, long-lived tree species. Unfortunately, these are usually the first plant species to disappear due to human encroachment. When a female’s preferred nest site is destroyed, it may take her years to accept a suitable replacement, which can destabilise the breeding groups.

Other threats facing ground-hornbills include secondary poisoning, particularly when the hornbills scavenge poison-laced carcasses intended for other species. Lead toxicosis is also a threat. Ammunition containing lead spreads fragments through carcasses; the discarded portions left behind after hunting can easily lead to the deaths of ground-hornbills and any scavengers, avian and mammal.

Finally, ground-hornbills are known to make enemies of local communities. Anyone who has ever watched a hornbill attack its reflection will be able to testify to this family’s indignant determination to see off a potential rival. Imagine a turkey-sized bird with a beak large enough to crush bone and picture the potential damage to windows, cars, and any other reflective surface. In impoverished rural communities, this destruction of property makes ground-hornbills obvious targets for persecution.

The bringer of thunder

Interestingly, throughout their range, southern ground-hornbills are the subjects of considerably disparate traditional beliefs. In some cultures, they are strongly associated with death and misfortune, which may translate to either direct killing and persecution or a taboo around harming them, depending on the belief. Ground-hornbills are sometimes associated with altered human perception, making them popular in traditional medicines.

Perhaps the most well-known belief surrounding ground-hornbills is their association with rain and thunderstorms. This likely arose since their breeding season (when they call most frequently) occurs at the height of the rainy season. So powerful is this belief in some cultures that it is thought that a single feather left in a river could result in a flood. For the most part, this association with rain (and, therefore, life) works to the benefit of the southern ground-hornbill. However, it can result in hornbills being targeted for rituals and traditional medicine during times of drought.

Conserving the ground-hornbill

Though the southern ground-hornbill is listed as “vulnerable” by the IUCN Red List, there are several countries within their range where the ground-hornbill is severely threatened. They are endangered in South Africa, Namibia, Lesotho and Swaziland and may soon be critically endangered in South Africa and Lesotho. The populations in Kenya, Tanzania, Malawi, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Mozambique also require concerted conservation efforts to keep numbers stable.

The many threats facing them, combined with contrasting cultural perceptions, require multi-pronged approaches from the organisations dedicated to conserving the ground-hornbill. This is accomplished through (among other initiatives) education programmes, the provision of nest boxes, and the protection of remaining habitats. Some projects also remove the second chick from the nest (only the older chick survives under natural conditions) and hand-raise the youngsters. Artificial breeding groups are created before the birds are released back into their former range. This must be done in such a way that the birds do not form an attachment to the human caregivers (through puppets and other methods). The young hornbills must also be given sufficient “helper practice” during the first, crucial developmental stage years.

Tortoises are something of a ground-hornbill speciality

Conclusion

Sadly, the very traits that make southern ground-hornbills one of Africa’s most iconic bird species have made them more vulnerable to human impact. Fortunately, programmes aimed at changing perceptions through culturally bespoke initiatives are showing signs of success. Protecting the southern ground-hornbill is essential not just because of their ecological role. They are complex, social animals, and we still do not fully understand the nuances of their intelligence or evolution. Through research, we hope to learn more on the finer nuances of this charismatic bird.

Resources

Watch a leopard raiding a ground-hornbill nest here.

Those wishing to contribute to the conservation of ground-hornbills can visit the Mabula Ground-Hornbill Project here.

Comment – teamAG – Friday 25 February 2022

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Extraordinary pics + Chitake killing fields + caracals & Tom Cruise about town

As I sip my early morning mug of pressed coffee …

Tom Cruise is 250m away in a gorgeous boutique guesthouse – probably conducting his early morning rituals. He is in town for several months to shoot Mission Impossible 8. The chop of helicopter rotors overhead has become part of our lives as he travels to and from the steep forested gorges west of town. Tom has charmed this sleepy bushveld town on the Greater Kruger border with his down-to-earth manner – a true gent. Many celebs pass through on the way to nearby lodges, but few have stirred local imagination like our Tom.

Other local news is that a crocodile attacked a lady as she fished a nearby river and a young girl was dragged from her bed by a hyena. Both survived but suffered severe injuries and psychological trauma. And the marula trees are dripping with delicious fruit, driving elephants wild as they scramble to harvest this nutritious annual bounty. Life goes on.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor

After viewing this week’s Photographer of the Year selection, I’m dreaming of travel. Playful youngsters are stealing the limelight: check out the tiny jackals, baboon, leopard and seals in our third story. From new life to its creation by honeymooning lions, our photographers are pulling out the stops to capture the untamed continent.

So too has Jens Cullman, who in our first story battled the heat and dust to photograph the rituals of the Chitake Springs killing fields. The raw tension is palpable in Jens’ images – undoubtedly why the Chitake safari we offer at the end of the story booked out within hours of going live.

Our second story focuses on the urban caracals of Cape Town. I have been fortunate to bump into one in a Western Cape village – an experience more will have, with research showing caracals are attracted to the fringes of human development, at significant risk.

Right now, I’m plotting how to get to the lush Kgalagadi, which is singing with life after rains. Where will you be making your next wild discovery?

From our Scientific Editor

We all know that one person who revels in the discomfit of others as they pop and crack their various joints, from knuckles to necks. What causes this noise? This has proven to be a vexing question with several explanations, though the most common cause is likely gas bubbles caused by sudden negative pressure. Another potential explanation – like the elands in our ‘Did you know?’ fact of the week below – is the movement or readjustment of tendons and ligaments.

The good news? Cracking joints does not cause arthritis. Dr Donald Unger spent 60 years popping the knuckles of his left hand and not his right, with no unfortunate consequences. He was awarded the 2009 Ig Nobel Prize for his efforts – a suitable reward for his dedication to science.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/chitake-killing-fields/
KILLING FIELDS
Chitake Springs is a remote camping area in Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools National Park – offering an extremely wild, untamed safari experience

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/caracals-of-cape-town/
URBAN CARACALS
Caracals are attracted to the edge of urban spaces at significant risk, according to recent research.

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-3/
EXTRAORDINARY PICS
Our selection of Photographer of the Year 2022 entries for Week 3 is out now

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

SOLD OUT – BUT …

Our 2023 photographer-guided safari to the wild Chitake Springs (Mana Pools, Zimbabwe) sold out within hours of going live on our website after publishing an epic photo gallery and video this week. So we have opened a new slot for those that missed out. We are unlikely to add further slots for 2023 because the authorities restrict volumes – for good reason. Last chance to reserve your place on this epic safari!

CAN YOU FEEL IT?
Check out this I-want-to-be-there video from club member Chuini Zanzibar Beach Lodge – can you feel the sand between your toes and picture that idyllic sunset through the glass of your ice-cold mojito? Check out this island retreat and other camps & lodges here.

DID YOU KNOW: What goes click click click? When mature eland bulls over a certain size walk, their knees produce a loud clicking sound believed to be caused by a tendon slipping over the leg bone. One study suggests that this is used by males as a display of dominance. Click here for more

WATCH: Did you know that a pangolin eats up to 70 million ants per year? And that the ground pangolin can climb trees? Check out this epic video (0:31). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 3

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week

An infant chacma baboon is fascinated by a blob of drool. Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana. © Kevin Dooley

A leopard peers out at distant wildlife from a large Mashatu (nyala) tree. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Chris Jolley

A female southern-masked weaver inspects her mate’s work. KwaZulu Natal, South Africa. © Cindee Beechwood

A southern ground-hornbill shows off its impressive wingspan in flight. South Luangwa National Park, Zambia. © David Pugh

A sizeable Mozambique spitting cobra spreads its hood in self-defence upon release into Buffelsdrift Game and Nature Reserve, after being safely removed from a residential area. Roodeplaat, South Africa. © Dean Polley

Full moon just after sunset. Sabi Sands Game Reserve, South Africa. © Pieter Dannhauser

After following each other closely while both hunting for small prey, an immature pale chanting goshawk and slender mongoose face off in the stumps of a dead tree. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Hendrik Steyn

A lioness stares at vultures perched in a dead leadwood tree above. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Henrico Muller

A Cape fur seal and pup find some breathing space in the midst of a robust, successful breeding colony off the west coast of South Africa. Namaqua National Park, South Africa. © Hesté de Beer

Briefly vexed in the midst of a honeymoon. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Vicki Santello

Red-billed queleas catch the first rays of sun for the day. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Jens Cullmann

An immature martial eagle perches at a great height near Lower Sabie Rest Camp. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © John Mullineux

Lolling about in the midmorning lull. Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda. © Karen Bongrain

A giant of Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Yaron Schmid

A joyous greeting between a mother black-backed jackal and her pups. Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana. © Kevin Dooley

A painted reed frog enjoys an evening sojourn on a lily pad. This image was captured using an underwater camera submerged underneath the lily pad, with a torch positioned above. Sabie, South Africa. © Veronique Pretorius

A black-headed heron’s patience pays off at Leeuwdril Waterhole. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Leon Labuschagne

Luluka, a well-known leopard of Maasai Mara, hunts an unsuspecting steenbok after a long, slow stalk. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Peter Hudson

Catching the last rays of sun at the world’s largest Cape fur seal breeding colony. Cape Cross Seal Reserve, Namibia. © Peter Reitze

A chimpanzee rests in the darkness of the tropical forest. Kibale National Park, Uganda. © Andrei Daniel Mihalca

After being chased up a leadwood tree by two hyena, a leopard settles down for dinner. Sabi Sands Game Reserve, South Africa. © Pieter Dannhauser

Maasai Mara resident leopard Luluka and cub head back from a playful drink. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Ruzdi Ekenheim

Sand bathing in the desert dirt. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Sharlene Cathro

Putting up a tremendous struggle after an ambush on the river bank. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Vicki Santello

A leopard enjoys a midday nap directly overhead, allowing a unique angle for the photographer. South Luangwa, Zambia. © Alastair Stewart

Caracals of Cape Town – navigating a landscape of fear

With the ever-expanding human population, wild animals across the globe have had to find a way to adapt to our presence. This means balancing the potential rewards (increased foraging opportunities) with the inevitable risks (such as conflict with people and domestic animals, and hazardous traffic). New research from the Urban Caracal Project examines how caracals navigate the dangers of city life in the Cape Peninsula. These highly adaptable mesocarnivores (mid-sized carnivores) are attracted to the interface of human development and wild spaces – at a significant potential cost.

To investigate how caracals adapt their behaviours, researchers from the project focused on the cats’ foraging-habitat selection across the Cape Peninsula – a section of Table Mountain National Park (TMNP) – in Cape Town. Previous research suggests that the Peninsula population numbers between 48 and 64 caracals, and the population is geographically isolated by the city of Cape Town. The borders of this region of TMNP are predominantly urban in the north, but become progressively less so to the south. The researchers divided the study region into the ‘urban region’ (north) and the ‘wildland region’ (south).

Between 2014 and 2016, 26 different caracals were captured and fitted with GPS collars. Over six months, the collars (designed to eventually fall off) provided regular updates on the caracals’ locations. The researchers combined this data with prey remains and scat analysis to examine how and where the caracals chose to hunt. They also looked at the behaviour at feeding “clusters” (where the GPS location data is clustered around a point over a specific period) to determine how the feeding caracals were behaving when in a “landscape of fear”.

The results show that caracals living in the urban region are drawn to the urban edge, foraging at the interface of the wilderness and human habitation where prey is abundant. In contrast, caracals that live in the wildland region avoid the urban edge. This selective behaviour indicates that caracals can become habituated to the presence of people and the various anthropogenic dangers. They become increasingly attracted to rewarding areas despite the risks. To mitigate the chances of being found, these “caracal urbanites” conceal themselves in surrounding vegetation and reduce their movement during times of high human activity, “hiding in plain sight”, rather than moving away.

So, is this attraction to city life a problem for caracals if they have learnt to mitigate the risks? Understanding the traits that allow caracals to persist outside of protected areas is important for designing effective conservation methods. Caracals on the fringes have learnt to trade off the increased resources with some serious risks. The dense road networks in and around cities are a significant cause of mesocarnivore mortality throughout the world, and this is particularly true for Cape Town’s caracals. In addition, exposure to things like rat poison and pesticides, as well as domestic animal diseases, remain a constant danger.

Behavioural plasticity – a change in behaviour resulting from exposure to stimuli – is essential, but if the costs of city life outweigh the benefits, this attraction to urban fringes could reduce population fitness. This is described as an “ecological trap” – the animals are repeatedly drawn to an attractive but harmful environment – and has the potential to lead to local extinction. Thus, even though the caracals may seem to have the city “all figured out”, the Urban Caracal Project is working on reducing some of the risks they will inevitably face. Some strategies include reducing pesticides, maintaining vegetative cover (especially in vineyards, which the caracals prefer) and traffic calming, particularly at popular crossing points.

Naturally, maintaining existing protected areas and increasing connectivity remains a priority.

Resources

The Urban Caracal Project operates in partnership with the Cape Leopard Trust. If you would like to learn more about their projects and research or potentially contribute to their vital work, you can do so here: The Cape Leopard Trust.

The full study can be accessed through a paywall here: “Hiding in plain sight: risk mitigation by a cryptic carnivore foraging at the urban edge”, Leighton, G. R. M., et al., 2021, Animal Conservation

Read more on the life of caracals here.

Chitake – predators’ playground

“It was so hot, often 34 degrees Celsius by 5 am and mid-forties by late morning, that I could not transfer my precious photos – for fear of frying the computer. My cameras were so hot that at times I could not hold them for long. The gritty dust got in everywhere – including inside camera bodies and lenses. And let’s not even talk about the insects biting me 24/7 – mosquitos at night and tsetse flies by day… This is paradise, and I will be back next year!”

Every year photographer Jens Cullmann (our 2020 Photographer of the Year) spends months camping in Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools during the peak of the dry season (September to October) – seeking out the famous resident painted wolves (wild dogs) – on foot, at a distance. He often waits for hours on end in the oppressive heat at favourite stake-outs and waits for the drama to unfold. At other times he walks for hours, revelling in the pure bliss of being self-sufficient in one of Africa’s iconic wildlife meccas.

His 2021 sojourn was different. “There were fewer dogs this year – but more hyenas (clans of up to 20) and lions. And I saw fewer big bull elephants this year. So I decided to move my base camp to Chitake Springs.”

Chitake Springs is a remote area in the southern reaches of Mana Pools National Park – on the Chitake River, a tributary of the Zambezi River. The campsite has no facilities and campers have to be self-sufficient and comfortable amongst wild animals. The spring is a perennial water source in a usually dry riverbed and provides the only water source for concentrations of wildlife. Large herds of buffalo, elephant and other herbivores converge on the water – especially during the late dry season – and predators line the steep river channel banks to ambush their desperate prey as they drink.

Jens continues: “At times, it was carnage as lions killed six buffalo calves per day. I have heard that they also target young elephants here, but this time it was all about the huge buffalo herds.”

His parting thoughts: “Chitake Springs at this time of year is very hard work for a photographer – physically very demanding and tough on your equipment. It gets hotter than it does along the Zambezi River because there is no cooling river breeze, and there is more dust. And the camping is far more basic and insular. I worked hard to produce the images below – and hope that AG’s passionate fans enjoy them.”

We share a few of Jens’ favourite images from this trip in this gallery. To stay in touch with Jens, please follow him on Instagram and Facebook, where he regularly shares his pictures and thoughts.

Scroll to the end of this gallery to book your place on a guided safari to this photographic haven, and view a dramatic video of lions killing a buffalo as witnessed by Jens.

Chitake — Buffalo emerge from the dust to drink as attendant oxpeckers swirl

An exhausted buffalo is no match for hungry lions

This lioness is all concentration as she hones in on her prey

Thirsty buffaloes seem unaware of the threat of watching lions

An exhausted young kudu faces up to his imminent death

BOOK NOW

BOOK YOUR PLACE IN OUR PHOTOGRAPHER-GUIDED SAFARI TO CHITAKE SPRINGS

Comment – teamAG – Friday 18 February 2022

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Finest photos + celebrating glorious gerenuks + sidestepping rhino realities

The denial and spin continues …

South Africa’s Minister of the Environment – Barbara Creecy – hosted this CRINGEWORTHY scripted ‘interview’ a few days ago, where she again heralded the drop in rhino poaching numbers as a ‘step-change in anti-poaching activities’. However, again she ignored the primary reason for the reduced poaching – the 75% plummet in Kruger rhino populations over the last 10 years.

BUT this time, she went one step further – claiming a ‘shift in poaching to private reserves’ and suggesting that government anti-poaching units were doing so well that they could now educate private landowners. Chokes on his breakfast cereal. The poaching numbers from 2021 suggest that she is either misinformed or intentionally DEFLECTING focus from the facts. 451 rhinos were poached last year, of which +/- 320 were from government reserves/parks.

My network suggests that about 1,500 Kruger rhinos remain (2020 estimate was 2,809) – from 11,026 a decade ago.

Perhaps anti-poaching funding is due for renewal, and this was a publicity stunt? It’s time for our minister to extract ground-level info and shift from spin doctoring to factual accuracy. She is blessed with hard-working, loyal staff in the reserves – and yet she ignores their input. She should address the REAL ISSUES that hamper efforts to save rhinos – like endemic corruption at all levels of government.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor

What goes into taking the perfect photograph?
All of the photographers featured in this week’s Photographer of the Year selection can attest to the power of being at the exact right place at the right time: at a waterhole in Addo Elephant National Park as hyenas take down a kudu; on the banks of Chitake Springs as a herd of buffalo storms in to drink; up at the crack of dawn to capture the vapours of a lion’s warm breath on a cold Maasai Mara morning; tracking an Ethiopian wolf on the Sanetti Plateau moments before it hunts; or waiting out the pouring rain for the reward of a dramatic cheetah hunt in Phinda. You can indulge in these experiences in our second story below. Our first story deals with a rather photogenic, cheerful, and comical subject: the gawky gerenuk of East Africa.

There is an extraordinary experience waiting around every corner of wild Africa. All you need is a little patience, and a pinch of luck. And quite a bit of preparation.

Being at the right place at the right time takes planning: working out itineraries, seeking out expert guides, finding the best route and transport, and the ideal spot to lay your head. That’s why our team of safari experts is constantly planning once-in-a-lifetime experiences for our AG tribe. You can check out these safaris on our website and these camps and lodges in our private travel and conservation club.

Happy indulging in Africa to you all!

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/gerenuk-africas-gawky-oddball/
GLORIOUS GERENUK
Endearing, comical and almost alien – these giraffe gazelle are high on the safari bucket list

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-2/
BEST PHOTOS
Photographer of the Year 2022 entries for Week 2 are here! Enter for a chance to win your share of US$10,000 and a Botswana safari.

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

IT’S SPECIALS SEASON!
We have added two lip-smacking special offers to our travel desk – each of which offers an epic safari at seldom-seen prices.

Stay 4, pay 3 at the stunning & luxurious Tintswalo Safari Lodge in the Big 5 Manyeleti Game Reserve (Greater Kruger, South Africa). Check out the low price for club members in the info section on the right.
3 places left – 6 days in the magical Botswana wilderness for US$2,215. This is a fully catered mobile safari that journeys to Moremi and Khwai.

DID YOU KNOW: Familiar voice: HIPPOS recognise vocalisations from individuals and respond differently to those of “strangers”

WATCH: Super tuskers – huge, gentle, majestic icons of a species under pressure (0:36)

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 2

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week

A view to a kill. Olare Motorogi Conservancy, Kenya. © Alastair Stewart

A herd of buffalo rushes down to Chitake Springs to drink, raising a cloud of dust. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Andrei Daniel Mihalca

Two white rhino – horns blunted after removal – form a striking image in Greater Kruger. South Africa. © Dominic Cruz

Heading out on a cold August morning. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Boone Thomson

A young caracal renders a piercing stare at dusk. Caracals have remained resilient in the face of the rapid urbanisation of the Cape Peninsula. Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, Cape Town. © Braeme Holland

The herd crashes onto the banks of Chitake Springs. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Jens Cullmann

A serval kitten stays close to its protective mom. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Yaron Schmid

Of all the big cats, leopards are the strongest climbers. South Luangwa National Park, Zambia. © Dawie Maree

A trio of lions strengthen their social bonds through licking and nuzzling. Etosha National Park, Namibia. © Dirk Johnen

An elegant little egret scrutinises its surroundings for hunting potential. Amanzimtoti, South Africa. © Dominic Cruz

A young Mundari herder holds onto two massive-horned Ankole-Watusi cattle, considered ‘kings of the cattle’. South Sudan. © Joe Buergi

Three white rhinos, closely guarded for protection, continue to graze into the early evening. Great Karoo, South Africa. © Hennie Blignaut

An endangered Ethiopian wolf heads along the Sanetti Plateau with its ice rat prey. Bale Mountains National Park, Ethiopia. © Hesté de Beer

A master of camouflage, the mossy leaf-tailed gecko blends into the bark of whichever tree forms its perch. Andasibe-Mantadia National Park, Madagascar. © Sumeet Moghe

A young cheetah is shielded by the tall grasses of Deception Valley. Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Botswana. © Jens Cullmann

An exhausted kudu faces up to its fate. Addo Elephant National Park, South Africa. © Antionette Morkel

An African rock python curls up safely in the high branches near Duke waterhole. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Johan

The textures and colours of Augrabies Falls at sunrise after heavy rains in early 2022 make for a spectacular sight. Augrabies Falls National Park, South Africa. © John Mullineux

A wildebeest herd makes its daily trek across the dry lake beds to access lush green grasses. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Kerry de Bruyn

Waking up at sunset after a light nap. Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana. © Kevin Dooley

Taking a breather while feeding after a dramatic zebra hunt in the pouring rain. Phinda Private Game Reserve, South Africa. © Matthew Povall

Two hippos have it out on the Chobe River. Botswana. © Antionette Morkel

This spotted hyena had a thorough roll in a muddy, almost-dry waterhole to cool off in the heat of the day. Etosha National Park, Namibia. © Melanie Loubser

A leopard gains leverage from an angled tusk while feeding on an elephant carcass. Botswana. © Raquel Barao

A highly venomous Egyptian saw-scaled viper seen on the shores of Lake Baringo. This small snake accounts for a high number of snakebites in Africa – many of which are lethal. Kenya. © Robin James Backhouse

A pregnant lioness targets a wildebeest tripped up in the confusion of a startled herd at Salvadora waterhole. Etosha National Park, Namibia. © Sumeet Moghe

Lions bring down a buffalo separated from its herd in Chitake Springs. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Andrei Daniel Mihalca

A hooded vulture in graceful flight. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Urs Niklaus

A gerenuk’s characteristic neck holds its head up high. Samburu National Reserve, Kenya. © Yaron Schmid

A helmeted guineafowl forages in the early morning. Indlovu River Lodge, Greater Kruger. © Braeme Holland

Gerenuk – Africa’s gawky oddball

Africa boasts an impressive collection of over 70 antelope species. Some, like sable and gemsbok, are stately and proud. Others, like impala and springbok, are elegant and graceful. Bongo, kudu and nyala are drop-dead gorgeous, and the little duikers are indisputably cute. And then there is the gerenuk…

The basics

It’s probably somewhat unfair to label the gerenuk (Litocranius walleri) strange or weird-looking. After all, we are perfectly happy to accept a five-ton animal with a prehensile nose or one that stands over four metres tall and has a purple tongue. Perhaps it is simply a matter of exposure – gerenuk very seldom have a starring role in nature documentaries, nor do they feature heavily in artistic photographs of Africa’s wildlife in all its glory. Yet, there is something captivating about the gerenuk that draws the eye and makes it difficult to look away. They are, for want of a better word, goofy.

Gerenuk seem, for all the world, as though some cosmic power took hold of an impala and stretched it vertically without adding any proportional width. Their necks are absurdly long, and this, combined with the unique ability to balance on slender hind legs unsupported, allows them to feed at heights of over two meters. To complete this bizarre image, they have disproportionately small heads, which only serve to make their eyes look enormous.

The name gerenuk comes from the Somali name for the animal: gáránúug.

Unravelling the exact genetic relationships between antelopes is devilishly complex and very much a work in progress. With the advent of improved genetic sequencing techniques, genetic evidence regularly contradicts what appears to be obvious morphological similarities. We know that despite the similarity in looks and colour, gerenuk are not closely related to impala at all.

Instead, gerenuk belong to the Antelopini tribe, which includes the true gazelles (like the Thomson’s gazelle). They are also the only member of the genus Litocranius. Bizarrely, within the Antelopini tribe, the gerenuk is related to the springbok, though the two do not overlap in range at all. While springbok are confined to the drier parts of Southern Africa, the gerenuk is spread across the semi-arid areas of northern Tanzania, Kenya, Djibouti, Ethiopia and Somalia. Across parts of this range in Somalia, the gerenuk is sympatric with another antelope called the dibatag or Clarke’s gazelle (Amoodorcas clarkei), which may be their closest relative. This has yet to be genetically confirmed, and, while the two are placed in separate genera, they are almost identical but for their horns and facial markings.

Quick Facts

Shoulder height:	Males: 89-105cm
	Females: 80-100cm
Mass:	Males: 31-52kg
	Females: 28-45kg
Social structure:	Small herds or solitary
Gestation:	6.5-7 months
Life expectancy:	Up to 13 years or longer in captivity
Conservation status:	Near Threatened

How the gerenuk got its neck

It is a great shame that Rudyard Kipling, in the bedtime tales he told his daughter, did not alight upon the gerenuk as a possible protagonist because it is perfectly suited for a fanciful tale about how it came to look the way it does. Indeed, such a tale might provide a useful starting point because, in truth, we still don’t fully understand the process. Long necks have evolved independently in several extant (and many extinct) species, from dinosaurs to their living relatives (like ostriches) and from giraffe to the gerenuk, inspiring many a theory on their origins.

The apparent answer offered to most of us in school biology lessons on the giraffe is that long necks allow for access to juicy leaves above the reach of other competitive browsers. Unfortunately, life (and, by extension, evolution) is seldom this simple. Scientists have offered up several competing theories that have turned the giraffe’s cervical region into an icon of evolutionary biology. As it turns out, long necks have several useful functions, including fighting, watching for predators, and thermoregulation. And of course, the long neck may have evolved for one reason but conferred several advantages later on.

As for gerenuk, their curious bipedal predilection suggests that in their case, a mouthful of fresh leaves was evolution’s ultimate goal. Not only are their top two cervical vertebrae modified to prevent sub-luxation (in other words, a serious crick in the neck), but their lumbar vertebrae are also designed to aid their balance, as are their wedge-shaped hind hooves. Though most people are simply taken aback by the sight of an upright antelope, a closer look also reveals a supportive set of gluteal and thigh muscles that would make even the most avid cyclist jealous.

Peering at the neighbours

Adult male gerenuk are territorial and solitary, generally only associating with the females that wander into their range. These territories are habitually marked by a viscous black secretion from the preorbital glands. The females are somewhat more social but generally only form small herds of fewer than six individuals. Their associations are temporary, and solitary females are a common sight.

Interestingly, despite their preference for dry habitats, the females do not seem to have a seasonal oestrus period, and they can breed throughout the year. As with all antelope, the fawns are born precocial and can stand on wobbly legs as early as 15 minutes after birth. Adorably, records from hand-reared and captive fawns show that they will start trying to balance on their hind legs from as early as two weeks old. Wild gerenuk mothers typically hide their fawns in dense vegetation for up to four months, returning every morning and evening to suckle them.

By a year old, the young are fully independent of their mothers. At this point, male offspring will occasionally form bachelor groups with other sub-adults for another two years until fully grown and capable of fighting for and defending a territory.

Unlike their Thomson’s gazelle cousins, gerenuk are reluctant runners, relying on their keen senses and surprising ability to melt into the background. When facing a predator, they will trot away or adopt a “stotting” behaviour, a high-kneed, stiff trot. A full gallop is generally reserved for emergencies, and even then, the gerenuk only reaches top speeds around half of that of a springbok or Thomson’s gazelle. This sedentary lifestyle also helps them to conserve water.

Where to find them in the wild?

Gerenuk prefer thornbush, avoid dense thickets or open grasslands and their densities increase in dry regions where competition with other browsers is reduced. They are perfectly adapted to survive in even the driest areas and can go for months, if not years, without drinking. The moisture that they require is drawn from selective browsing. Like most arid-dwelling animals, their kidneys are well designed to reduce water loss by concentrating their urine, and specially designed nasal passages minimise evaporative loss.

Current estimates suggest that there are fewer than 100,000 gerenuk left in the wild, and their numbers are decreasing, prompting the IUCN to change their conservation status to “Near Threatened” on the Red List in 2008. This is expected to change to “Vulnerable” in the not-too-distant future, particularly as density information from Somali is scant but unlikely to be positive. Habitat degradation and unsustainable hunting are responsible for at least a 25% decline in numbers over the past two decades.

Fortunately, their numbers remain stable in most protected spaces across their range. A visit to Kenya’s Samburu and Meru regions will guarantee sightings of these dainty antelope, and they are also found in scattered numbers in Amboseli, Lewa and the parts of Tsavo. In Tanzania, they are reasonably common around Lake Natron.

Consider this special Kenya safari offer to see gerenuk and other dryland specialists: Maasai Mara and Samburu – 7 days for US$3,640 per person sharing

Want to go on safari to see gerenuks? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

Conclusion

These tiny “giraffe gazelle” are decidedly endearing and, yes, even comic. But once you get used to the somewhat alien appearance of the unique gerenuk, you start appreciating that they are genuinely one of Africa’s most wondrous creations.

Comment – teamAG – Friday 11 February 2022

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Best pics + super tuskers + hope for painted wolves

Taps the mic …

Last week was a HAPPY WEEK for our fledgling travel & conservation club. We paid out our first round of conservation project donations to the lucky recipients. This is the humble beginning of what we hope will become a steady stream of vital funding from YOU, our club members, to those carefully selected projects. Thanks SO MUCH for those once-off donations and monthly pledges – no matter how modest. We forward the entire amount received from you to the projects, the only deductions being bank/platform fees. This is only the beginning, ladies and gents – please support us in our mission to increase our combined positive impact on the ground – in Africa. Join the club to contribute via constructive discussions, donate to projects, and go on safari at carefully selected camps & lodges.

These past few weeks, your teamAG has been green with ENVY at the daily updates from our safari guru Christian Boix as he trawled Tsavo and Amboseli in Kenya for super tuskers, predators, aardvarks and those amazing eye-level hippos in the crystal clear water of Mzima Springs – amongst other epic encounters. Christian is mostly desk-bound for his role as our safari director, but now and then, we set him free to host long-standing safari clients – a task he relishes. On this occasion, he accompanied regular safari client Roger Whittle. Roger has a LIFE LIST, and each year he ticks off a few more epic encounters with us. Be like Roger 😉

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor

Pleased to meet you, AG tribe. I’m your new editor.

A few weeks into this summer’s heavy rains in the South African Highveld, I witnessed a spectacle in the sleepy town of Heidelberg, Gauteng. Hundreds of ever-patient giant bullfrogs emerged in an unremarkable field alongside a cigarette factory after five years underground. Scientists don’t know how the bullfrogs know that a particular puddle will last the 24 days required for tadpole metamorphosis – yet when the rains come, they rise from slumber en masse, competing aggressively for breeding rights.

Not long after the spectacle, my own patience was rewarded. It feels surreal introducing myself to you as the new AG editor, as a long-time follower of the brand that has inspired my wanderlust, driven my intrigue for conservation, and affirmed my love for this wild continent.

Our three stories below will activate your own wanderlust – from Christian’s travels, to wild dogs, and our first epic selection of Photographer of the Year 2022 photos.

I can’t wait to lead you to rare experiences, inspire you to get your feet on the ground, and to celebrate Africa with you.

From our Scientific Editor

“It takes a village to raise a child” – a saying generally attributed to African origins. I’ve been trying to devise a suitable conservation equivalent because a similar theme applies. The back-breaking process of protecting a species (or wild space) is a collective one. Cooperation and knowledge-sharing are vital if we are to gain an overall perspective of the survival prospects of any one animal.

This is precisely the approach followed by the conservationists at the Painted Wolf Foundation. They have compiled a comprehensive review of the state of painted wolves across the continent and devised a plan to secure their future. Read all about it in our second story below.

Next week, Dianne Skinner of the Painted Wolf Foundation will be one of the many experts presenting their experiences in saving these charismatic carnivores. The African Wild Dogs United Virtual Conference will run from the 14th to the 18th of February, and the not-to-be-missed programme features the biggest names in painted wolf conservation. For more information on how to purchase tickets, have a look at this post on our club forum.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/time-with-super-tuskers/
SUPER TUSKERS
Searching for super tuskers? We spotted three legendary elephants in one safari trip – here’s how

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/hope-for-african-wild-dogs-new-report/
PAINTED WOLVES
Could we double African wild dog numbers by 2050? With funding, collaboration and recovered territory, it’s possible

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2022-weekly-selection-week-1/
BEST PHOTOS
The first weekly selection of entries for Photographer of the Year 2022 is here! Cash prizes of US$10,000 and a Botswana safari are up for grabs.

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

CEO’s choice: SPECIAL OFFER – A small window has opened to enjoy a 6-day fully catered mobile safari to Moremi and Khwai in Botswana for the crazy price of US$2,215 per person sharing. This glamping safari runs in late April, and there are 4 spaces left at this price.

• See the safari details here: Moremi Magic

• Watch a video about mobile safaris in Botswana

• Read this travelogue by our CEO about his time on this safari

DID YOU KNOW: An elephant’s trunk is one of the most sensitive body parts in the animal kingdom. It is supplied by two trigeminal nerve ganglions, each of which has around 400,000 nerves

WATCH: ‘Money makes them unsympathetic’ – a powerful doccie about mining on South Africa’s west coast and its effects on local people and the environment (37:15)

Photographer of the Year 2022 Weekly Selection: Week 1

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Natural Selection.

Here are the best submissions for this week

The Tano Bora all-male coalition sets out on the hunt. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Alex Nilles

Preparing for touchdown, a white-backed vulture comes in for a landing. Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana. © Kevin Dooley

A serval zones in on its prey. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Yaron Schmid

Atop a termite mound, a cheetah and cubs warm up in the morning sun. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Andy Campbell

Two cubs creep out of their den, near Balule Satellite Camp, to meet their mother in the early morning light. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Charmaine Joubert

Zig zagging across the waters, a large wildebeest herd ventures the hazardous crossing of the Mara River. © Dale Davis

Crossing the chilled waters in Moremi. Okavango Delta, Botswana. © Jens Cullmann

Shaking off the dampness after a soak from a thunderstorm. MalaMala Game Reserve, South Africa. © Damon Hoskin

A male southern masked weaver starts construction on a nest, hoping to attract a female that will approve of the new dwelling. Buffesldrift Game and Nature Reserve, South Africa. © Dean Polley

While the pack rests on the fringes of the Okavango Delta, one wild dog keeps her eye on a cheetah and cub passing by. Khwai Private Reserve, Botswana. © Hesté de Beer

An African darter fluffs its feathers while waiting for the warmth of the sun on a cold morning. Wilderness, Western Cape, South Africa. © Dominique Maree

Interacting in the limbs of a tree just before dark. Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana. © Kevin Dooley

A black rhino dashes one final glance at the camera before hightailing it in the opposite direction. Kenya. © Andy Campbell

Two San bushmen enjoying the sunset on a dune in the Kalahari Desert. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Ferdinand Veer

After stealing an impala kill from a leopard on the edge of the Sand River, a Nile crocodile clamps down on its prize. Sabi Sands Game Reserve, South Africa. © Gabriel Keet

A wobble of ostriches huddles in the dust near Rooiputs waterhole. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Gert Lamprecht

A Tonga fisherman spears a fish caught by the tide in a “fake” kraal trap. Kosi Bay, South Africa. © Hesté de Beer

A Maasai warrior poses with his weapons. Tanzania. © Jack Swynnerton

Two gemsbok butt heads during a brawl. Etosha National Park, Namibia. © Jason Kandume

An African skimmer fishes in the early morning. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Jens Cullmann

A red-billed oxpecker and buffalo enjoy the water at Chitake Springs. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Jens Cullmann

The curious gorilla infant focuses its gaze on the photographer while its mother continues to feed. Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda. © Karen Bongrain

A mud bath gets messy for the photographer. Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana. © Kevin Dooley

On safari at Tuludi Camp with Africa Geographic, our skilful guide led us away from an agitated matriarch as she launched into an unprovoked charge about 200m from the vehicle. Khwai Private Reserve, Botswana. © Hesté de Beer

Resting on the parched plains with a backdrop of billowing smoke. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Andy Campbell

A lioness keeps a watchful eye on her onlookers through the carcass of a kill. Thornybush Game Reserve, South Africa. © Michael Tucker

A cub – offspring of the famously successful cheetah mother, Kisaru – takes a brisk jog through the dry grass. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Venkateshwar Govindaraj

Hope for African wild dogs? New report

Could African wild dog (painted wolf) populations double by 2050? A theory of change offered in a new report proposes it may be possible to save one of Africa’s most endangered carnivores – through collaboration, recovering former territory and improved funding. These athletic predators have suffered centuries of persecution, and the space available to them is ever-shrinking. How are wild dogs faring across Africa, and what can be done to secure their future? Conservationists and scientists from the Painted Wolf Foundation have compiled a comprehensive assessment of the state of painted wolf conservation – from population estimates to conservation strategies – and hypothesise that numbers could double in the best-case scenario.

The method

Executive director of the Painted Wolf Foundation Diane Skinner identified and approached 37 individuals from 28 organisations operating in 12 African countries. Where possible, the organisations selected are directly involved in monitoring and conserving painted wolves or are responsible for managing protected areas within their range. Collectively, these organisations cover over 800,000km² (80 million hectares) of painted wolf habitat – home to at least 4,500 wild dogs.

The 145-page report – Securing the Future of the Painted Wolf – looks into the broader conservation landscape of painted wolves, and includes a breakdown by country.

wild dog — Habitat loss and fragmentation is a major threat to painted wolf populations

The findings

Painted Wolf Foundation has estimated the current population numbers as below, providing an anecdotal snapshot in time. These numbers and the direction of change reflect those taken during 2020, at the time of consultation.

The largest populations of painted wolves of the areas surveyed occurred in:

Luengue-Luiana National Park (Angola): ±600
Northern Botswana: 700–800
Niassa Special Reserve (Mozambique): 300–350
The Kruger Ecosystem (South Africa): 250–400
The Ruaha Landscape (Tanzania): ±500
The Luangwa Valley Ecosystem (Zambia): ±300
The Zambezi Valley (Zimbabwe): ±250

[Editorial note: at the time of research, detailed information about the population in the Selous/Nyerere Ecosystem (Tanzania) was not available. However, assessments from 2012 suggested this region was home to one of the largest populations of painted wolves in Africa at the time.]

Populations are believed to be increasing in:

Aire de Conservation de Chinko (Central African Republic)
Gorongosa National Park and surrounds (Mozambique) [Editorial note: painted wolves were reintroduced to the national park in 2018.]
Private reserves in South Africa as part of the Wild Dog Range Expansion Project
The Serengeti Ecosystem (Tanzania)
Luangwa Valley Ecosystem (Zambia)

Populations are believed to be decreasing in:

Okamatapati and Otjituuo Conservancies (Namibia)
Greater Kafue Ecosystem (Zambia)

The remaining populations are either stable, or their status is unknown (but likely decreasing in many of the regions surveyed).

Hope for painted wolves? — Current reported status of painted wolf populations across Africa

The threats

The report identifies the major threats facing wild dogs across Africa. Naturally, these are region-specific (take, for example, this case of a declining dynasty in Mana Pools), and certain threats may be more significant than others. However, a common theme is habitat loss and fragmentation – one of the greatest threats to wildlife in Africa. This is particularly true in the case of the painted wolf, which is a wide-ranging species that occurs at low population densities. In South Africa, for example, painted wolves once roamed the entire country but are now restricted to just a fraction of their historic range (a comparative map of former and present ranges can be found here).

Painted wolves are also victims of the illegal bushmeat trade, as snares and gin traps intended for antelope are indiscriminate. Outbreaks of diseases such as distemper or rabies, carried by domestic dogs, can wipe out entire packs. Road accidents are also common causes of wild dog mortalities in some areas. Conflict with farmers occurs throughout the painted wolf range, even though their reputation as mass livestock killers far exceeds their actual impact.

All of the above threats are exacerbated by the fact that wild dogs struggle to persist with high densities of competing predators like lions and spotted hyenas. As most of Africa’s wildlife is now concentrated in protected areas, painted wolves are forced to exist on the periphery of these regions, increasing their chances of encountering anthropogenic threats.

African wild dog conservation gaps

While celebrating the impressive efforts of various conservation initiatives working to protect wild dogs, the report shows that, when looking at the species as a whole, the best that can be said is their numbers are somewhat stable. In many areas across their range, numbers are decreasing, while in others, there are yawning gaps in knowledge about numbers, status, and movements. The threats facing this charismatic species are not dissipating and will become more severe as the human population burgeons, exacerbating habitat loss.

So how to shift the paradigm from individually treading water to safely increasing painted wolf rangelands and supporting the species across the continent? The report’s authors first pinpointed the conservation gaps – where tried and tested conservation measures are not deployed due to a lack of funding, knowledge, or expertise. These include macro issues such as a lack of effective habitat management and comprehensive community engagement and education. Filling these gaps would help create protected landscapes where all wildlife, including painted dogs, can thrive.

However, conservation of painted wolves requires species-specific interventions to address the micro issues, such as the management of disease outbreaks or denning behaviour close to hostile communities. In many areas, the organisations attempting to protect painted wolves lack technical resources or funding (or both). In others, there are no organisations specifically directing their attention to wild dog conservation. Even though there are existing conservation methods that have proved highly effective, there are few mechanisms whereby nascent organisations learn these methods or benefit from the experiences of others.

Embedded constraints

In addition to identifying conservation gaps, the report also points to constraints within painted wolf conservation initiatives. These include the image and perception of painted wolves (as vermin, feral dogs), the need for a unifying global voice, and strategic collaboration to share day-to-day challenges and solutions for shared learning.

The most significant constraint is, unsurprisingly, funding and fundraising. The Painted Wolf Foundation report roughly estimates that painted wolves across the entire continent receive US$2.5 million in conservation funding each year. To put this into perspective, South Africa’s state organisations alone may spend upwards of US$80 million annually to protect the country’s rhinos. Their poor image perception and lack of conspicuous crises (such as poaching) render painted wolves’ fundraising appeal narrow. For smaller organisations with limited personnel, the fundraising burden is enormous.

A theory of change

With these gaps and constraints in mind, the Painted Wolf Foundation partnered with the Wildlife Conservation Network to conceive a “theory of change”. This three-pronged approach was developed with the goal of doubling the number of wild dogs in Africa by 2050. The three strategies are:

Improve and support existing painted wolf conservation through increased funding and shared best practices.
Recover former territory where painted wolf populations have been eradicated so they can naturally recolonise or be sustainably reintroduced. This would benefit not just painted wolves but also work to ensure a more secure future for other wildlife.
Encourage, fund and support collaborations between painted wolf conservationists and other entities. Improving communication and collaboration between organisations is essential for the future of painted wolves but comes at an inevitable cost.

With these measures in mind, the Painted Wolf Foundation and Wildlife Conservation Network (WCN) are actively fundraising with the ambition to create the Painted Wolf Fund. This will be run on the same lines as the WCN’s successful Lion Recovery Fund and Elephant Crisis Fund.

How to help the wild dog

The report produced by the Painted Wolf Foundation is one of the most comprehensive and up-to-date assessments of painted wolf conservation ever published. It reads not as a criticism of current conservation initiatives but as a celebration of the valiant efforts of dedicated individuals and organisations. However, the threats facing painted wolves will only increase. It will take a monumental feat of collaboration to change the trajectory to ensure they survive and thrive. This analysis provides a fundamental starting point for this process.

To support their work, you can donate to The Painted Wolf Foundation here.

Resources

Access the report: Securing the Future of the Painted Wolf. Skinner, D., Dyer, N., Blinston, P., Thomson, P., Lindsey, Dr P., Hofmeyr, M. (2021). Painted Wolf Foundation, Wildlife Conservation Network.

Painted Wolf Foundation’s Diane Skinner will be presenting a special session (Securing the future of the painted wolf: a strategy for transforming the trajectory of Lycaon pictus), at the African Wild Dogs United virtual conference on Tuesday 15 February. To find out more and to register for the event, click here.

For more information on the report, or on the Painted Wolf Foundation, email info@paintedwolf.org.

Time with super tuskers

They are the fabric of legend, and not even the simmering anticipation from days of searching can prepare seekers for the moment of finally finding one. They are the super tuskers of Africa – the last rare relics of an era long forgotten. But coming face to face with a super tusker is not always a guarantee – although it is always a highlight for even the most seasoned traveller.

Our very own safari director Christian Boix and safari client Roger Whittle recently set off on an odyssey to Amboseli and Tsavo East National Parks – known for their impressive herds of elephants – in the hopes of photographing the tuskers. Through dogged determination, they finally found what they were looking for.

Home to giants

Tsavo has the last notable population of big tuskers in the whole of Africa. Once a common sight, roaming far and wide across East, Central and Southern Africa, big tuskers have almost been wiped off the African continent – a combined result of trophy hunting, large-scale exploitation of ivory in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, and devastating poaching.

But thankfully, the last remaining tuskers are given their best chance for survival in Tsavo, where elephants are closely monitored for protection against poaching and injury. The Tsavo Trust’s Big Tusker Project, in collaboration with Kenya Wildlife Services, provides aerial and ground support to collect data and respond to imminent threats to the living legends. This ongoing presence is a significant deterrent to poachers and other illegal activity.

Today, nine giant bull tuskers remain in Tsavo. There are also 27 emerging tuskers and four iconic cow tuskers on the Tsavo Trust and KWS Tusker database – which is why visitors have the best chance of seeing some of Africa’s biggest tuskers there.

Stained red by the rich soils of the Amboseli-Tsavo ecosystem, the living legends make for a striking image against the towering backdrop of Mount Kilimanjaro – attracting photographers from across the globe.

Spotting a super tusker

Finding the super tuskers does not always come easily, and it always helps to be accompanied by more experienced seekers. It was only after a few days of searching and with a dash of luck that Christian and Roger were successful. “We found them through dogged determination. We followed up on all the latest sightings and other leads. We gambled on where we thought their feeding habits might lead them. And after days of seeking bull groups, searching from morning until evening, we finally found what we were looking for.”

The party had the privilege of meeting three super tuskers on their journey. Craig, a 50-year-old gentle giant of Amboseli, is a well-loved favourite in the area. Ulysses, also one of the larger super tuskers of Amboseli, once survived a deep spear wound that was treated by vets – and was, therefore, a remarkable sighting for the duo. The party then spotted super tusker MK2 in Tsavo East.

“Craig was surrounded by an entourage of well-aged bulls. They all stuck around and stayed alert – though not fearful – when they noticed us. Each elephant took turns to sniff and check on the old man,” says Christian. And they weren’t the only ones tailing Craig. “KWS scouts were in attendance – they have a tough job keeping tabs on the safe whereabouts of each Tusker in the area.”

While the specific locations of super tuskers are always kept under wraps, Christian says seekers will “do well to visit Satao Elerai in Amboseli and Satao Camp in Tsavo East, which serve as excellent bases from which to find the legends”. Here, visitors can spend much time on safari with knowledgeable guides who have worked in the area for years. Satao Elerai also offers night game drives in the conservancy, which not all lodges in the area do.

And what to do after finally snapping a legend? “Book our next trip!” says Christian. “Roger could not get enough of my almost fanatical obsession to track down a target!”

Want to go on an African safari to seek super tuskers? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

Resources

Christian and Roger visited Satao Elerai and Satao Camp as their bases for searching for the super tuskers.

You can learn more about Tsavo Trust here.

You can also join us as we walk with the giants of Tsavo East on a 13-day adventure, where we follow elephant herds over an 80km walking route along the Galana River.

WATCH: Meet Craig – super tusker (0:36)

Comment – teamAG – Friday 04 February 2022

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Start your engines + great elephant news + best safari time of day?

It’s THAT time of year again. Entries are now open for our annual celebration of Africa’s amazingness, and we have already seen epic images arriving in the inbox. Our Photographer of the Year again offers cash prizes of US$10,000 and a fabulous safari to Botswana. My heart sings, and all of us at teamAG look forward to three months of eye candy followed by a tough month of judging. We will begin sharing weekly selections soon. Start your engines, ladies and gents – details here.

THANKS SO MUCH for the massive support for my rant last Friday about online retailer Takealot offering gin traps for sale to Joe Public. To cut a long story short, they have apologised and ‘delisted’ the gin trap. My decision to withdraw our accounts with them (personal and AG business) stands firm – their apology lacked sincerity, and the lack of a named human being in the process was telling. Your avalanche of social media and email pressure on Takealot worked well – you are my heroes 🙂

GREAT NEWS in our second story below – about forest elephants. Scroll down and tap to find out the details! Our first story below is often hotly debated by safari experts and passionistas. SO, what is your favourite time of the safari day? Those photos get my safari juices flowing.

BY THE WAY, a (reliable) source tells me that only 6 rhino horns have been recovered from the estimated 900 horns (450 rhinos) poached last year. That proportion – 0,7% – provides perspective on how ineffective the world’s governments and agencies are at policing illegal trafficking …

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Scientific Editor

Giraffe are a source of endless fascination for anatomists, physiologists and those who work to unravel the inner workings of the mammalian body. Within their lanky frames, many adaptations work to counteract the physics challenges posed by a neck that reaches a lofty height of six metres. Blood pressure aside, a giraffe’s neck weighs roughly a third of its body mass, and the massive nuchal ligament that effortlessly holds the head upright is a marvel of evolution. And, as if the neck weren’t complex enough, our ‘did you know’ fact of the week below explains how giraffe are capable of extraordinary cervical contortions.

Of course, for our Photographer of the Year entrants, these fascinating facts are largely overshadowed by the sheer photogenic nature of these iconic animals. Will it be the giraffe’s turn to shine during this year’s competition? Only time will tell, but I can tell you that everyone at team AG is profoundly excited!

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/safari-time-our-favourite-time-of-day/
SAFARI TIME
Between meals, cocktails & pool dips, when should you head into the wild? We recommend our favourite safari time of day

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/more-forest-elephants-in-gabon-than-previously-thought-new-research/
GREAT NEWS
There are more forest elephants in Gabon than previously believed – first elephant population estimate in 30 years

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

• At last there are strong signs that we are all learning to live with Covid, and that the safari industry is slowly climbing out of the doldrums of the last two years. Many countries are now significantly reducing Covid requirements – making it easier to travel to Africa. Among many examples of the impact of fewer restrictions, United Airlines has reported massive increases in bookings for their direct flights from the US to South Africa.

• FastJet has announced direct flights between Victoria Falls and Maun –Botswana’s bushveld frontier town – in their 50-seater Embraer ERJ145 aircraft. This route was previously only available by private charter.

• Can you feel the sand between your toes and that cold G&T in your hand? Enjoy the beach and bush vibes in this relaxing video from Thonga Beach Lodge. Did you know that you can enjoy significant booking discounts for this and many other African camps & lodges in our travel & conservation club?

DID YOU KNOW: Neck ache? The joints between giraffe neck vertebrae are ball-and-socket joints – just like a human shoulder. The head is held upright by an extremely strong nuchal ligament.

WATCH: Return of the leopard. A story of hope: Zinave National Park in Mozambique welcomes its first leopards since the rewilding process began (7:33)

A dose of the good stuff

Rhinos, Rhodes and rings

Bomani, Bigboy and the Baggage Handlers

The final leg

Moving elephants + rhino run + Serengeti migration safari

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Wild Akagera + painted wolf pups + responsible safaris

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Akagera National Park

The return of the animals

Akagera’s flourishing ecosystem

Explore & stay

Leopard habituation

The benefits of leopard habituation

Leopard habituation on foot

Hosana on foot

Human-wildlife conflict

The importance of training

Ethics of the guides

Final thoughts

About the authors

Tented camps + giraffe evolution + wildlife warriors

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Everything but the Range Rover

The definition of glamping

The tent next door

Back to basics

Back of beyond

Factoring in growth

Dem bones

Constant vigilance

A tall order

Habituating leopards + vibrant Majete + Big-5 safari heaven

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

The reserve and Malawi’s wild spaces

Second chances and new hopes

Back from the brink

Explore & stay

Magical Majete

Cheetah first + self-medicating chimps + gorilla trekking

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

In the beginning

Navigating new relationships

Disaster strikes

Greener pastures

Why is this case so special?

Trophy hunting lions + Madagascar + Mara Champagne safari

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Northern Madagascar

Amber Mountain National Park

Ankarana Special Reserve and the “grey tsingy”

Red Tsingy

The Nosy Be Archipelago

The ins and outs of exploring Madagascar

Final thoughts

Resources

By Hans Bauer, Research fellow: Northern Lion Conservation, University of Oxford. Originally published by The Conversation

How trophy hunting works

Lions, lion hunting and livestock

The lion hunting model starts to unravel

Success stories?

The way forward

Wild Meru + Pongola’s elephant crisis + Maasai Mara photo safari

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Meru National Park and the Meru Conservation Area

The wilderness that inspired Born Free

For the birds, and the Big 5

Explore & Stay

A land triumphantly reborn

By Malcolm Thomson – General Manager: Pongola Game Reserve

Pongola’s position

Income through sustainable utilisation

Desperate times

Restrictions on elephant management

Ankarana Special Reserve
and the “grey tsingy”