Deep in the heart of the Congo Basin, amidst the dense rainforests of Nouabalé-Ndoki National Park, photographer Will Burrard-Lucas embarked on a mission: to unveil the hidden lives of the forest’s most elusive creatures. Through a year-long camera-trapping project, Burrard-Lucas, with the support of the Wildlife Conservation Society, has captured rare, high-definition images of the park’s remarkable wildlife. His feats include capturing images of the rarely seen African golden cat, and the forest’s apex predator: the enigmatic leopard.
Secrets of the Nouabalé-Ndokirainforest
“Tropical rainforests don’t give up their secrets easily,” says Emma Stokes, vice president of Field Conservation at WCS (Wildlife Conservation Society), which has for 30 years collaborated with the Congolese Government to administer and protect the park and its buffer zone. “You can spend years walking through these forests without seeing much of the extraordinary wildlife that lives there. You only know it’s there by the signs it leaves behind.”
Nouabalé-Ndoki, a pristine wilderness in northern Congo-Brazzaville, is one of the last untouched refuges for many rare species. Its towering trees, murky swamps, and dense undergrowth provide sanctuary for creatures seldom seen: red river hogs, duikers, golden cats, and, of course, the ever-elusive leopard. For Burrard-Lucas, it was the ultimate challenge. “The parks stands as one of the best examples of a pristine forest ecosystem in the Congo Basin. There are no roads within Nouabalé-Ndoki, the trees have never been logged, and the interior still harbours animals that have had little or no contact with people,” he says.
“Wherever you go, you get the sense that wildlife lurks just out of sight, behind the veil of vegetation,” he explains. “One of the animals that I was most keen to photograph was a leopard… The mere possibility of capturing a photograph of such an elusive creature was incredibly exciting.”
A forest elephant drinks from a baï
Heart of the forest
Burrard-Lucas’ journey to Nouabalé-Ndoki was no easy feat. After a gruelling 12-hour drive from Brazzaville to Ouesso, he continued by boat up the Sangha River to Bomassa, to the park’s headquarters. From there, a 21km trek through waist-deep swamps – guided by expert Bayaka trackers – was required to reach the remote research camps where his Camtraption camera traps would be set. And navigating the forest comes with its own challenges, such as stumbling on elephants that are well-concealed by the forest, and needing to keep an eye out for western lowland gorillas. “Occasionally, as you traipse through the forest, you might surprise a silverback gorilla, and he will explode out of a thicket so suddenly, screaming so loudly, that it makes your hair stand on end and your heart pound out of your chest,” says Burrard-Lucas.
From bad-tempered elephants to colonies of ants devouring rubber seals and intense humidity, the camera traps had their challengesWhile in Mondika, Burrard-Lucas joined researchers to photograph western lowland gorillas in personWestern lowland gorillas spotted in the treetops
Throughout the project, cameras were set at three research sites, including at Mbeli Baï, Goualougo and Mondika on the Central African Republic border.
Once in place, the camera traps faced their challenges. “Bad-tempered elephants dismantled set-ups, colonies of ants devoured rubber seals, and the intense humidity quickly took its toll on anything that wasn’t meticulously sealed,” Burrard-Lucas recalls. Yet, despite the hardships, the project delivered stunning results.
A forest elephant in a clearing in Nouabalé-Ndoki
Capturing the unseen of Nouabalé-Ndoki
The project yielded photos of many rainforest rarities, including water chevrotain, yellow-backed duiker, black-footed mongoose, red river hog, brush-tailed porcupine, Peter’s duiker, African palm civet, giant pangolin, blue duiker, forest buffalo and forest elephants. Among the highlights was a breathtaking shot of an African golden cat – one of Africa’s rarest and most elusive felines. This marked the first time the species had been captured in high definition in the wild in Congo.
This photo of an African golden cat captured by camera trap was a crowning achievement for Burrard-Lucas
But the crowning achievement was a single, electrifying image: a male leopard captured prowling a secluded trail near Mbeli Baï. “It was a large male, captured on a secluded trail near Mbeli Baï… and without a doubt, the most magnificent specimen I have ever photographed,” says Burrard-Lucas.
Local trackers and researchers played a crucial role in identifying the best locations for these camera traps.
“These photos are amazing,” says Seraphin Ngouna, who works on one of the park’s research sites and belongs to a community native to the forest. Ngouna, who maintained the cameras in the field, says, “I’m even happier to know these pictures will be published for other people to see.”
“It was a large male, captured on a secluded trail near Mbeli Baï… and without a doubt, the most magnificent specimen I have ever photographed.”
Conservation through imagery
While scientific camera traps are often used to measure wildlife abundance, Burrard-Lucas’ high-definition images do more than this: they connect people to these hidden ecosystems and inspire conservation efforts.
“These photos celebrate unseen wildlife and call for action to protect it,” says Sabine Plattner, owner of Kamba Africa, which partnered with the U.S. Agency for International Development (USAID) and the Nouabalé-Ndoki tourism development program to initiate the project with the photographer. “Through these images, visitors can see what life is like in the forest and the type of animals that inhabit it.”
Amongst some of the finds captured by the camera traps was a chimpanzee mother “fishing for termites” at a termite mound in Goualougo while sitting with her baby (details and pictures of which are yet to be published by WCS). This fishing technique entails chimpanzees placing a stick into the mound and waiting for termites to cling to it before eating them. “The resulting photos of her feeding while her baby watched – the passing on of this specialised technique from one generation to the next – made all the hard work worthwhile.”
From documenting termite-fishing chimpanzees to capturing the raw power of a rainforest storm, the camera-trap project offers a rare window into the wild heart of Africa. “Many of the animals photographed remain poorly studied, yet their survival is already threatened by habitat loss,” says Burrard-Lucas. “Every image is both a celebration of the forest’s richness and a reminder of what is at stake if these ecosystems are not safeguarded.”
Yet, as Burrard-Lucas acknowledges, this is only the beginning.
“Even in a place as rich in wildlife as Nouabalé-Ndoki, some creatures remain almost mythical – ghosts of the forest, rarely glimpsed even by those who know it best,” he reflects. “I guess there’s nothing for it but to return one day and see what additional secrets the rainforest might yield.”
Forest elephants captured in the heart of the forestRed river hog photographed by a camera trapAn African palm civet traverses a forest trailA forest buffalo comes for a drink at a pool
Peter’s duikerA blue duiker sets off the camera trapA majestic and stealthy forest elephantWater chevrotainA brush-tailed porcupine caught mid-scurryBlack-footed mongooseYellow-backed duiker, a near-threatened antelope of the forestAn endangered giant pangolin, captured fleetingly on camera
You, too, can enjoy an epic safari to the heart of Congo-Brazzaville’s rainforests. Odzala-Kokoua National Park encompasses rainforest that is more readily accessible. Keen to find lowland gorillas, forest elephants, bongos and much more? Check out our ready-made gorilla safaris to Odzala-Kokoua here.
Further reading
Western lowland gorillas, forest elephants & more. Odzala-Kokoua NP is another of Congo-Brazzaville’s rainforest kingdoms – for an African safari with a difference.
Forest elephant numbers are believed to have plummeted 86% in just 31 years yet their role in maintaining forest ecosystems is critical. Read more about forest elephants.
Research has uncovered population density declines of 90% for forest elephants across Africa in 53 years. Read more here.
A sojourn in Congo-Brazzaville brings Simon Espley face to face with a paradise of forest elephants, western lowland gorillas & forest baïs. Read about his trip to Odzala-Kokoua NP here.
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is open for submissions. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2025 to midnight on 30 April 2025. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in early June 2025.
Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week
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Hoedspruit’s 140 leopards + photo feast + our big news
I am SO PROUD right now!
We have arrived at the next stage of Ukuri’s journey towards consequential significance for Africa’s vast remote areas. Ukuri – an Africa Geographic group company – now allows you to book your adventure in one of African Parks’ wilderness camps online, in real-time – using our handy booking tool.
You can now easily plan your adventure – be that in Bangweulu Wetlands and Liuwa Plain in Zambia, Odzala-Kokoua in Congo-Brazzaville, or Liwonde, Nkhotakota and Majete in Malawi. The coming months will see more camp options added – from African Parks and other protected area managers where wildlife and local communities benefit significantly from the camps and lodges.
I won’t bore you with the technical details of this announcement – we have been under the hood for a year. Suffice to say you will not find the same standard of helpful info about these epic parks and camps anywhere else, and the booking process is intuitive and easy. Check out this example of one of Ukuri’s camps – Shoebill Island Camp in Zambia’s Bangweulu Wetlands, home to shoebills and the only wild black lechwe population on Earth.
Onwards and upwards! Thanks for reading this
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Cape Vultures have graced the skies of the Eastern Cape for the first time in 30 years – yet more proof that nature has a flair for dramatic comebacks. Over 80 wild vultures were spotted near Mountain Zebra National Park, and conservationists are practically doing cartwheels. Many vulture species are teetering on the edge due to habitat loss, collisions with energy infrastructure, poisoning, trade in vultures for belief-based purposes, and negative public perception. But, this reappearance in the Eastern Cape could be a sign that these feathered clean-up crews are making a slow but steady return. As Kerri Wolter from Vulpro – which recently moved their rehabilitation centre to Shamwari in the Eastern Cape – says, vultures are starting to return to their historical roosting sites. “Vultures are nature’s misunderstood heroes. By recognising them as crucial ecological guardians we can re-write the story around vultures and inspire meaningful conservation.” So, here’s to vultures – those disease-fighting, eco-friendly waste disposal warriors of the wilderness. Let’s hope this is a sign they’re back in business and soaring high!
This week’s Photographer of the Year selection is a feast for the senses: life-or-death moments, wild drama and grit captured in breathtaking detail. Dive in below. And then we look at the many, many leopards of Hoedspruit – South Africa’s ever-growing bushveld town on the border of Greater Kruger. We examine their fascinating movements, the threats they face and the people working to save them.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
This iconic safari is about water – or the lack thereof. Depending on which package you select, this safari ranges from the majestic Victoria Falls to the watery wilderness of the Okavango Delta, from the predator-rich northern Botswana floodplains, to the remote Central Kalahari and desolate salt pans.
A 10-day luxury safari escape. Indulge in a lavish adventure through Makgadikgadi Pans, the Okavango Delta, and Moremi. Stay in exquisite lodges, enjoy helicopter flights, and witness breathtaking wildlife: all with impeccable service and gourmet dining.
Nicole’s family safari in South Africa was extraordinary – earning us a 5-star review:
“Christian did an outstanding job organising an unforgettable trip for my family and me to South Africa. We began planning our journey only two months prior to our December travel dates, and Christian created an itinerary that far exceeded our expectations. We enjoyed two incredible safaris (Manyoni Private Game Reserve and iSimangaliso Wetland Park) over the course of eight nights, which struck the perfect balance between family-friendly and fun experiences for adults. Following the safaris, we spent four nights in Cape Town, soaking in the city’s beauty and culture, before embarking on a breathtaking tour of the Garden Route. Thanks to Christian’s expertise, we had an extraordinary experience. I recommend his services for anyone looking to explore South Africa in a truly memorable way.”
WATCH: Where do the leopards go when they leave Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate in South Africa? Safari expert Villiers Steyn finds out, chatting to Ingwe Leopard Program’s Marine Servonnat. (12:20) Click here to watch
Leopards are survivors. They are highly adaptable to change, opportunistic regarding food resources (empowered by a relaxed approach to sustenance), and have vast home ranges. Their natural tendency towards secrecy allows them to remain undetected and unseen even when ever-present. But with urbanisation enveloping even some of the most rural areas in South Africa, safe spaces for leopards are shrinking. In the bushveld town of Hoedspruit, a formerly rural area that has seen rapid expansion over the past few years, leopards are struggling to slip past the modern world unscathed. Enter the Ingwe Research Program, an initiative determined to untangle the fate of Hoedspruit’s leopards and their precarious coexistence with humans.
The program aims to study leopard distribution in a 325km2 area, including non-protected areas between two conservation areas: Greater Kruger in the east and the Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve in the west. Through research, the program is assessing the spatial distribution of leopards through environmental characteristics and anthropogenic factors to understand how they influence leopards’ habitat use and movements.
So far, 140 leopards from Hoedspruit have been fully identified by the program, but many still have temporary IDs and require more pictures to complete a unique identikit.
What is the secret to Ingwe’s ability to gather such detailed information? The people of Hoedspruit themselves. Thanks to the program’s focus on collaborating with reserves, lodges, wildlife estates and ordinary citizens, Ingwe has a comprehensive overview of the movements of Hoedspruit’s leopards. Ingwe has been gathering data on leopards in the area since 2022.
“Over 380 citizen scientists have shared their leopard sightings with the NPC. Citizen science is an invaluable tool for species conservation,” says Marine Servonnat, executive director of the Ingwe Research Program.
With such a collaborative network, Ingwe can understand leopards’ movements and numbers at a much larger scale.
Citizen scientists, including residents, tourists and safari guides, can document leopard sightings via a conservation mobile app known as SMART. These contributions feed into the African Carnivore Wildbook (ACW), an AI-powered platform that matches leopard spot patterns, providing researchers with invaluable movement data. ACW facilitates analysis from 11,000+ images already received from over 7,000 unique sightings.
In addition to the 140 leopards identified in Hoedspruit, the program has also identified 65 leopards from Greater Kruger (some of which you may have come across on a Greater Kruger safari), which form part of the research that will analyse population trends in various reserves with different characteristics situated inside and outside of formally protected areas.
This information, coupled with the information from non-protected areas, helps track changes in species populations and identify trends that may indicate threats or conservation successes.
Home ranges of some of Hoedspruit’s male leopards
Seen to be believed
The researchers have also come across some fascinating tales in their findings.
One leopard, the “Wild Dog Dam male”, bewildered researchers due to his wanderlust. First sighted in the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, he meandered 30km west to Excellence Game Farm, only to backtrack 25km east within two hours. A month later, he appeared another 25km south in Olifants West Nature Reserve, leaving researchers scratching their heads – and marvelling at the incredible power of shared data.
“If this information was not compiled under one project and the data not shared, one could think these were three different male leopards. This is very important to help streamline the number of individuals in the area and understand how the leopards move,” says Servonnat.
The Wild Dog Dam male leopard
The data has also allayed fears when well-known leopards have disappeared. Tlanga, a leopard born in the Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate in early 2020, dispersed in 2023 and vanished for seven months before popping up as a relaxed new resident in Kapama Game Reserve.
Then there’s Ntsakelo, also born in Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate. Ntsakelo was a particularly bold young male who thought nothing of sauntering through human-dominated spaces until he, too, mysteriously disappeared for four months – leaving researchers nervously checking roadkill reports. Thankfully, he resurfaced on a citrus farm, looking none the worse for wear.
These stories form the heart of Ingwe’s scientific mission: to understand where leopards go and how they navigate human-dominated landscapes.
Leopard Ntsakelo, born in the Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate and a known wanderer
A road runs through it: the perils of Hoedspruit’s R40
Most pressingly, Ingwe is trying to solve a dilemma on behalf of Hoedspruit’s leopards: how to keep them from becoming casualties of progress.
Hoedspruit’s R40 provincial road is a lifeline connecting local communities, towns and reserves. Unfortunately, it’s also a death trap for wildlife. Seven leopards were killed in just 10 months in 2024 due to collisions with cars on the region’s roads, including the R40, alongside countless hyenas, jackals, and wild dogs. One leopard was killed by a train in the same period.
One of the leopards killed on the R40 provincial road
The Road Ecology Project, spearheaded by Ingwe in partnership with sponsor AirNav Systems, aims to turn this tide. Through this initiative, researchers are methodically identifying roadkill hotspots, assessing underpasses and culverts, and using a citizen science network to track leopard crossings. Armed with this data, the program will implement tangible solutions – including reinforced culverts, enhanced crossing points, and new signage to prevent further deaths.
The bigger picture: protecting Hoedspruit’s leopards
Ingwe’s work goes beyond keeping leopards off roads. The program is a conservation think tank exploring how leopards move through non-protected areas, how human-wildlife coexistence can be improved, and how to create ecological corridors between South Africa’s great wilderness spaces, improving connectivity and the safe dispersal of wildlife.
The program is helping to reduce a research gap as 85% of leopard research in South Africa takes place inside protected areas, even though leopards mainly occur outside of protected areas.
The challenge, of course, is funding. High-tech camera traps, fuel, trained researchers, and long-term monitoring require support.
Ultimately, the fate of Hoedspruit’s leopards isn’t just in the hands of researchers – it’s in the hands of residents, travellers, and conservation enthusiasts who value a world where these magnificent cats still roam free.
The Ingwe Research Program offers multiple ways to contribute – from becoming a citizen scientist and logging leopard sightings to donating, sponsoring equipment or projects, or raising awareness – there are many ways that ordinary people can help.
Because a world without leopards? Now, that would be truly unthinkable.
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is open for submissions. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2025 to midnight on 30 April 2025. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2025, and the winners of Photographer of the Year will be announced in early June 2025.
Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week
This is why I stopped photographing wildlife while on safari.
Kwando Reserve, Botswana. It was a hot dry-season day, and we were parked in a copse of almost-bare mopane trees. About 30m away, a huge, venerable kudu bull fought for his life. Backed into a blue bush, he was surrounded by a pack of wild dogs. Each time one of these incredible hunters made a dart at him, he slashed his white-tipped horns in an arc. They were patient, and so was he. More than two exhausting hours later, he made his cautious escape while the dogs rested nearby in a rare pool of shade. They noticed his departure but were too fatigued to do anything about it.
Our game-drive vehicle had a mix of keen amateur photographers and people like me who take the odd snap on their mobile phones. Throughout the drama, the photographers were griping about the harsh sun overhead, shrubbery getting in the way of their shot, and having left a more suitable lens at home. For me, two hours felt like minutes as I absorbed every moment as this courageous kudu defied the odds and lived to see another day, and the dogs used every ounce of their cunning and athleticism to secure a meal – at risk of injury or even death. What an epic occasion to be in the moment and not distracted by technology.
Of course, wildlife photography helps us celebrate nature’s wonders (our Photographer of the Year is a testament to that) – and we are all voyeurs, living vicariously through those evocative images that tell Africa’s stories. But while on safari, I choose to be totally in the moment. Each to their own. Many professional wildlife photographers I meet out there have learned when to put the camera down so they can ply their trade and also enjoy the moments for what they are – nature revealing her secrets and sometimes showing off.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Flying lessons, but make it wild! For 300 years, the northern bald ibis forgot how to migrate. Until humans stepped in, using a small aircraft and foster parents to teach the birds how to migrate again. With their bald red heads, long curved beaks and quirky greeting rituals, these gregarious birds were once widespread across North Africa, the Arabian Peninsula, and Europe. But until recently, they have been extinct in Europe, and had only one stable population in Morocco. Breeding efforts have worked well, but without wild ancestors to guide the ibises, they had no idea where to fly for winter. That’s when Austria’s Waldrappteam stepped in, guiding ibises cross country with the help of an ultralight aircraft, in a move influenced by the real-life Canada geese that inspired 90s film Fly Away Home. During the flights – the team have been perfecting these migrations for 20 years – human foster parents sit on the back of the microlight, waving and shouting encouragement to the birds as they fly.
Last year, 36 ibises completed a 2,800km journey from Austria to Spain. This project is helping the species reclaim lost ground beyond its African populations – one human-led migration at a time.
This week, we received news that famous Liuwa Plain lion Bon Jovi has been relocated: read more in our news story. Simon also shares his recent adventure to Hwange, during which he embarked on a conservation safari with our Photographer of the Year 2024 winners. Plus, we’ve chosen the best photos for the second week of our 2025 competition. Check these all out below.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
A luxury safari in Zambia, where comfort meets extraordinary wildlife encounters in Lower Zambezi and South Luangwa National Parks – two of the country’s top safari destinations. Indulge in bespoke service, breathtaking landscapes, and intimate wildlife experiences, all while enjoying seamless luxury and discreet, attentive hospitality. This safari is an unforgettable journey and the ultimate safari escape.
Fancy a guided photographic safari in Kenya’s Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya? Join award-winning photographer Arnfinn Johansen on this exclusive safari for four guests. Highlights include guided game drives with an experienced Maasai guide in a modified photographic vehicle, and accommodation at Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp. Departure Dates: 24 October–1 November 2025. Only 2 spots left!
The Pangolarium – a dedicated pangolin care facility – has opened in South Africa’s Lapalala Wilderness in the Waterberg. Built by the African Pangolin Working Group (APWG) in partnership with Lapalala with support from Lepogo Lodges, this groundbreaking centre provides medical care, rehabilitation, and vital research for these elusive creatures.
TeamAG’s Nadia and Sarah attended the Pangolarium’s launch, witnessing firsthand the incredible work being done to protect pangolins and experiencing conservation in action. Learn more about this crucial initiative here.
WATCH: A verdant forest paradise, and the location of our Photographer of the Year 2025 winner’s prize: Odzala-Kokoua NP in Congo-Brazzaville is a bucket-list safari spot. Western lowland gorillas, forest elephants, bongos, dwarf crocodiles, huge flocks of grey parrots & green pigeons – and much more are on offer here. Learn more about this magical part of the Congo. (05:27) Click here to watch
Bon Jovi, the popular Liuwa Plain National Park lion, has been relocated to Kafue National Park after posing a threat to local lives and livelihoods, as confirmed by African Parks to Africa Geographic.
UPDATE 04 May 2025: Bon Jovi was euthanised on community farmland northwest of Kafue after again killing cattle.
The handsome lion had twice left the unfenced Liuwa Plain National Park, Zambia, in the last two weeks and was reported to have killed five young cows about 18km beyond the park boundaries. The farmers were compensated for the loss of their livestock.
Bon Jovi, a breeding pride male, is well-known to researchers, who tracked him on each of his ventures outside of the park. His roaming was a cause of safety concerns for local villagers living near the park, and African Parks took the difficult decision on Tuesday, 25 February, to relocate him to Kafue, also in Zambia, in accordance with the park predator management plan. The move was made with the full support of the Zambian Department of National Parks and Wildlife.
Africa Geographic CEO Simon Espley said about this decision: “This is an excellent example of proactive lion management in a peopled area. I spent time with Bon Jovi and his pride last year and he is a magnificent lion – very handsome and confident. I am sad for visitors to Liuwa Plain that he has been moved elsewhere, but also happy that he is now going to contribute to Kafue National Park’s lion genes. His genes are well represented in many young lions in Liuwa Plain – his sons are already a force to be reckoned with.”
African Parks said in their statement: “The lion was released into the southern region of Kafue, where there is a low density of lions and minimal chance of him moving into an area where he would encounter people and livestock. We will continue to monitor him in his new home in Kafue.”
Bon Jovi is a son of legendary lioness Queen Sepo – one of the founder population of lions brought in to repopulate Liuwa Plain. Poaching and illegal trophy hunting had eradicated lions from Liuwa Plain National Park in Zambia in the 1990s. Except for one lioness – Lady Liuwa.
Lady Liuwa roamed the park on her own for many years –- sometimes seeking the company of humans. Despite being too old to breed, Lady Liuwa headed up the newly established pride until she died of natural causes in 2017.
After many setbacks, lions are now flourishing in Liuwa Plain once again, and playing their vital ecosystem roles.
African Parks took over management of Liuwa Plain National Park in partnership with the Zambia Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW) and the Barotse Royal Establishment. They set about improving the park’s security while working with the community to implement sustainable land-use plans. Some two decades later, 95% of the park’s staff contingent are local community members, and representatives of the Barotse Royal Establishment are on the African Parks Zambia board to ensure a voice for the people in managing the park.
Through emergency support, educational programmes and development schemes, and carefully controlled fishing permits, African Parks have ensured that the local communities are vested in the park’s survival.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? You can plan and book your African Parks safari by clicking here, and book a safari to Liuwa Plain here.
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is open for submissions. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2025 to midnight on 30 April 2025. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2025, and the winners will be announced in early June 2025.
Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week
Hwange’s vast wilderness is more than a safari destination – it’s a frontline for conservation. Our 2024 Photographer of the Year winners party embarked on an unforgettable Hwange conservation safari, handing over sponsored lion collars, meeting local conservation heroes, and witnessing the delicate balance between wildlife and communities. From towering elephants to elusive lions, and from village visits to predator research, this adventure uncovered the raw beauty and pressing challenges of protecting Africa’s wild spaces. Simon Espley reports
Our three 2024 Photographer of the Year winners handed over sponsored lion collars to a team of dedicated predator researchers and learned how these collars keep local villagers safe from roaming lions that threaten lives and livelihoods. We discussed elephant politics with a local village headman, attended a school assembly, chatted with young learners and toured a village clinic paid for by an innovative community-owned rhino project. We marvelled at herds of elephants and buffaloes emerging from the dust, craggy male lions patrolling their kingdoms and warrior lionesses nursing tiny furry bundles. We ogled sable antelope with sweeping horns and watched striding ground-hornbills and secretary birds.
After saying goodbye to our photographer winners, I journeyed on to the remote wilderness of southwestern Hwange – guided by a local legend with Hwange soil in his veins. He educated me about conservation issues beyond the realm of photo tourism, of a rapidly growing elephant population that is impacting heavily on woodland, of broken national park fences and desperately poor communities whose daily struggle to find water and food defines their relationship with wildlife.
Our happy group of travellers gathered in the dappled morning light under the massive camelthorn tree at the lodge of the same nameLate dry season sees large herds of thirsty buffalo converge at waterholesDrought takes its toll
I also got to ponder the meaning of modern human life with master photographer guide Greg du Toit as we watched desperately thirsty buffaloes and elephants crowding artificial waterholes as the drought tightened its grip. Greg lamented that predators feast on stricken elephants, baby antelope die agonising deaths, and dust devils whirl through naked trees. Yet, humankind increasingly distances itself from our biological home and reality – distracted by technology, ideological constructs and fantasy digital worlds.
Of course, this drought will end – and the bushveld will recover. Real life is about seasons and cycles, feast and famine. I love this place – Hwange, Zimbabwe, Africa.
About to head off on the Elephant Express from Dete Railway StationCan life get any better?A team of Africa Geographic safari experts visited Hwange a few months later – amidst early summer rains and a greener landscape
Lions, communities and rhinos
Lion collars are an essential tool for keeping humans and free-roaming lions safe from each other (read more about our Collar a Lion campaign here). Our 2024 Photographer of the Year winners found that out for themselves when their prize included three sponsored tracking collars. I spent 5 days with our winners in eastern Hwange, courtesy of Imvelo Safari Lodges and Southern African Conservation Trust. The three collars were handed over to Oxford University’s WildCru – the research organisation that keeps an eye on these lions.
Our winners and guests hand over the sponsored collars to the Long Shield Lion Guardians
We learned from the Long Shield Lion Guardians operating in areas bordering Hwange that they collar ‘problem lions’ with a reputation for wandering into community areas. The usual suspects are young male lions of about 2–3 years old forced out of their natal area by the dominant pride males. In the perfect world, these youngsters would wander far and wide and find females to start their own pride. But of course, rampant human population expansion throughout Africa has resulted in formally protected areas like national parks and game/forest reserves being surrounded by humans, livestock and crops. The result is regular encounters between the two species and a death toll for both. Female lions with cubs also often leave protected areas to seek refuge in ‘safer’ community areas when their pride males have been chased away or killed by other male lions or trophy hunters (claims by trophy hunters that they only shoot old non-breeding males are fictitious). The females know that the incoming males will kill their cubs to further their own genetic lines and that they are safer in the community lands than in the parks.
This lioness spent hours trying to dig up a warthog from its sandy burrow. Exhausted, she eventually gave up
This is where the collars come in. Collared lions leaving the parks trigger an alert to the lion guardians who track the lions and push them out of the community areas. But where can they go to be safe? This is a vexing question with no obvious solution. We spent time with a team of these brave guardians, who enthralled us with stories of their encounters with local lions. They advised us that hyenas are responsible for most human fatalities, but lions and elephants get the wrap because humans are scared to walk around at night when they are in the area. Blaming them helps rid the neighbourhood of lions and elephants.
Hwange is known for its large male lions – popular targets for photographers and trophy hunters alike
During our 5-day adventure in Hwange, we spent time with the Bomani Lion Pride – including three lionesses with cubs. We also bumped into the two magnificent dominant males of the area – Mzilikazi (Tip) and Lobengula (Tufty) – as they patrolled their territory.
We also visited the 104-household Ngamo Village adjacent to Hwange National Park and spent time with the village chief, Johnson Ncube. This delightful gentleman entertained us with stories of his life and gave us insight into the joys and challenges of rural village living. He was immensely happy with the direct benefits generated by Imvelo Safari Lodges from tourism activities (more about that later) but expressed frustration at the lack of direct benefit from trophy hunting. He and his wards appreciate the meat they get from some trophy hunts but do not see any direct cash inflow. Johnson also took us to his home to meet his family. He escorted us to a vibey performance by a village drumming and dance group, which had us all dancing like nobody was watching – much to the amusement of the gathered locals. What a wonderful morning out ☺.
We met learners at the Ngamo school and were treated to a dance before spending time with them discussing our respective lives – a genuinely heart-warming morning
At this point, it’s important to mention the contribution made by Imvelo Safari Lodges to locals living on the Hwange boundary and to wildlife conservation. They operate four lodges in the Hwange area, one of which – Camelthorn Lodge – is located on community-owned land in the Ngamo Rhino Sanctuary at the eastern gate to the park. This sanctuary is spearheading the return of white rhinos to Hwange via the Community Rhino Conservation Initiative. The local Ngamo community owns these rhinos; all revenue from gate fees paid by tourists goes directly to them. Tourists get to approach the rhinos on foot and attend an informative talk about the project.
During our safari, we visited the modern village clinic funded by these tourism proceeds. Imvelo employs more than 40 local people as community wildlife protection scouts – known as the Cobras Community Wildlife Protection Unit. Imvelo also maintains 18 pumps in and around Hwange National Park, which provide essential water for people and wildlife throughout the year.
Want to make a difference at ground level with by going on a conservation safari in Hwange National Park? Check out this Hwange conservation safari. This safari is all about fantastic wildlife viewing and understanding conservation at the grassroots level. Or, check out our other ready-made Hwange safaris here.
Visitors to the Ngamo Wildlife Sanctuary get to learn about rhino conservation and spend time with their guardians – the Cobras Community Wildlife Protection UnitImvelo maintains 18 pumps in and around Hwange National Park, which provide essential water for people and wildlife throughout the yearWe spent time with Johnson Ncube – Ngamo Village chief and a teller of fascinating stories about life on the Hwange boundary
The water and wildlife of Hwange
After my time with our winners, I spent time with Imvelo owner Mark Butcher, who took me on a two-day tour of the remote southwestern Hwange area. We drove along the park fenceline to Jozibanini Camp inside the park – a converted ZimParks station. We also visited several artificial watering holes with boreholes maintained by the Imvelo crew. This is a truly remote camp overlooking a busy pumped waterhole – for lovers of wilderness and solitude. My night there was pure magic – elephant rumblings throughout the dark hours and lions, leopards and hyenas adding to the nocturnal sound safari. Early the next morning, I savoured coffee and freshly baked bread at the fire and watched the antics of a flock of boisterous Meyers (brown) parrots at a bird bath a few meters away. The memory of delicious woodsmoke-infused bacon, eggs and flapjacks made over the fire lingers still.
Once a royal hunting area for Mzilikazi, the Mthwakazi king, Hwange’s shallow soils and scarce water resources made it unsuitable for agriculture. In 1928, Wankie Game Reserve (a colonial mispronunciation later rectified) was gazetted for wildlife conservation. By then, historical records suggest that the park was mostly devoid of wildlife due to the rampant hunting habits of early colonialists. However, the scarcity of water resources would also have played a significant role. The first warden of Hwange National Park, Ted Davison, set out to remedy this by creating many artificial water points, using boreholes to access the area’s underground water supply. The animal populations flourished with ready access to permanent water and concerted conservation efforts.
Those waterholes are essential for wildlife populations to remain in the safety of the park, and the primary reason elephants are hammering the woodland habitat is that the permanent year-round water attracts them. In that way, Hwange acts as a sink for elephants in the region – with populations growing faster than natural breeding would permit. Damned if you do and damned if you don’t.
The waterholes of Hwange are a wonderful place to watch quietly while elephants and other wildlife go about their lives a stone’s throw awayHwange lions hold up the Elephant Express
Explore and stay in Hwange
Simon and our Photographer of the Year winners travelled to Zimbabwe with Mack Air, and visited the following lodges:
Bomani Tented Camp
Bomani Tented Camp is nestled in a private concession on the splendid Ngamo Plains – legendary for impressive year-round game viewing with a great diversity of wildlife in substantial numbers. Enjoy an open-air thatched main lodge, elevated canvas suites, teak viewing decks, a prolific waterhole, a splash pool, and evenings around the fire.
Bomani’s elevated tents are comfortable and discreetly positioned for privacy
See more pics of Bomani Tented Camp here
Bomani overlooks a busy waterholeWooden floorboards and mosquito nets – a classic tented safari experienceThis very busy waterhole is a few minutes’ game drive from Bomani
Camelthorn Lodge
Camelthorn Lodge is nestled into a beautiful forest on communal land adjacent to Hwange National Park’s famous Ngamo Plains. The lodge is within the Ngamo Wildlife Sanctuary – with guaranteed close-up encounters with white rhinos. An ancient Camelthorn tree, the property’s namesake, is the centrepiece, with the main lodge and eight beautiful villas flowing around it.
There are few things better than a shady hammock to sleep away the late-morning breakfast feast
See more pics of Camelthorn Lodge here
This ancient camelthorn tree lords over the lodge of the same nameCamelthorn Lodge’s double-story suites are cool in the afternoon heat and extremely comfortableLuxurious suites to rest during the warm afternoon
Jozibanini Camp
Jozibanini Camp is a rustic tented camp in the remote southwest of Hwange National Park in a wilderness unused for nearly 20 years. This small camp has elevated canvas suites and a ‘star-bed’ sleeping option on the deck. Jozibanini is about the luxury of isolation and dining al fresco around the campfire.
Jozibanini overlooks an active waterhole and elephants (and other wildlife) regularly stroll through camp
See more pics of Jozibanini Camp here
The tents are rustic but comfortableUp close with elephants at the Jozibanini waterhole
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First epic photos + Mara coexistence
The other way to enjoy gorilla encounters…
The tourism industry’s stellar gorilla trekking permit system generates significant revenue to fund gorilla conservation efforts – long may this last. One result of this strategy is that our perception of gorillas is based on a one-hour close encounter with a habituated gorilla group. Thankfully, rules such as wearing a mask and not approaching closer than 7m keep the gorillas safe from disease. BUT there is another way to observe gorillas.
In the central portion of Congo-Brazzaville’s Odzala-Kokoua National Park, gorilla watching is from elevated covered treehouses that overlook baïs. A baï is a swampy clearing in the forest where wildlife gathers to drink and ingest mineral-rich soil. This is the best way to observe secretive species such as forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos, western lowland gorillas and many bird species. One such baï is a 3-minute stroll from Camp Imbalanga (you can come and go as you please).
Once the western lowland gorillas arrive, your encounter is not time-limited – your sighting could last hours or minutes. You can remain in your treehouse for as long as daylight permits. These unhabituated gorillas visit regularly, sometimes resulting in multiple encounters in one sitting. Of course, no masks are required, as this is not a close encounter.
Note that this form of gorilla watching isn’t possible near any other lodges in this vast park. And there is no strenuous trekking involved. FIND OUT MORE about watching western lowland gorillas and book your spot in that treehouse near Camp Imbalanga.
Thanks for reading.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
For years, conservationists swore Nigeria-Cameroon chimpanzees still roamed Ise Conservation Area in Nigeria. But the sceptics weren’t convinced. Now, thanks to a well-placed camera trap, the chimps have finally broken their cover – swinging, snacking, and proving they’re very much still around.
This tiny rainforest patch, battered by deforestation and marijuana farms, is their last refuge. With fewer than 25 individuals left in Ise and only a few thousand left in the wild, the chimps are a rare genetic treasure. Conservationists are celebrating, and locals are rallying behind the cause. The message is clear: if we protect their home, they might just stick around.
The AG office is abuzz this week, as Photographer of the Year is finally here and we’ve just voted on our first batch of entries. Don’t miss this epic gallery! And we also look at new perspectives on the coexistence of Maasai herders and wildlife in the Mara. Check it out below.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Join an eight-day primate quest to meet some of the most iconic apes and monkey species of East and Central Africa. From the critically endangered Grauer’s gorilla in the Democratic Republic of the Congo and the fabled mountain gorillas in the Virungas to the charismatic golden monkeys and primal pant-hooting chimpanzees of Nyungwe (Rwanda), this safari is a celebration of all things primate. And, of course, the spectacular scenery and enthralling birding are bonuses!
Discover Tanzania’s popular northern safari circuit, including Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti NP, and the idyllic serene beaches of Zanzibar. This safari offers you a seamless introduction to the wonders of a Tanzanian bush and island retreat. Immerse yourself in these iconic locations whilst exploring diverse landscapes and rich culture.
Deep in Hwange, the Long Shield Guardians stand between lions and community livelihoods. These local heroes use GPS collars, WhatsApp alerts, and daily patrols to keep villages safe from roaming predators – stopping human-wildlife conflict before it starts. Their game-changing ‘Mobile Boma’ concept protects cattle, boosts food security, and reduces lion killings. The result? Thriving crops, safer communities, and a future where people and predators coexist.
Support the guardians of the wild – learn more and donate today!
WATCH: Drunk elephants? Not really… But seeing the odd behaviour of these elephants, we wouldn’t blame you for thinking they are. Stumbling around and acting a bit clumsy, these elephants gave their onlookers in MalaMala Game Reserve quite a show. (01:26) Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2025 is open for submissions. The overall winners, runners up and their partners will enjoy a teamAG safari to explore the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2025 to midnight on 30 April 2025. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2025, and the winners will be announced in early June 2025.
Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week
Protected areas have long been regarded as essential tools for conserving biodiversity, often involving strict exclusion policies to prevent human activities like livestock grazing. However, new research challenges this conventional wisdom, particularly in the Maasai Mara National Reserve (MMNR), Kenya. A recent study by the University of Michigan reveals that cattle grazing within the reserve, at current levels, does not significantly impact most wild herbivores or degrade vegetation and soil conditions. Instead, it highlights a deeper socio-ecological issue – here pastoralist communities, historically marginalised and displaced, rely on the reserve for their survival. This finding urges conservationists to rethink rigid exclusion policies and consider more inclusive, sustainable management approaches. Christy Bragg unpacks the issues at play
Nature is under pressure – we are losing species and ecosystems at unsustainable rates. Conservationists have developed a toolbox of interventions, one of which is the ‘protected area’. Often, these protected areas are enclosed by fences. Sometimes, people and their associated activities are excluded from these areas. For example, livestock grazing is restricted in many protected areas and nature reserves across Africa, ostensibly to avoid irreparable harm to natural areas.
But is this always the best option? To put this into context, there is substantial research on the value of protected areas in conserving biodiversity, but there is also a growing number of studies supporting alternative approaches, including the use of OECMs (Other Effective Area-based Conservation Measures) and biodiversity stewardship. Social scientists have described the importance of preserving “socio-ecological landscapes”. Socio-ecological landscapes are “dynamic mosaics of habitats and land uses” where the “harmonious interaction between people and nature maintains biodiversity while providing humans with the goods and services needed for their livelihoods, survival and well-being in a sustainable manner.” It is a concept imbued with change and people’s relationship with nature, and it holds space for how these intertwining histories have written their stories into the land.
Taking this one step further, there is growing global recognition that indigenous people have embodied protecting nature without resorting to western civilisation’s methods of conservation by isolation, separation and disconnection of nature and people. In the book, Braiding sweetgrass, Robin Kimmerer weaves a storyline about a very different concept of conservation. She proposes that nature evolved with humans, not despite humans. She hypothesises that we need to find our place within nature to truly value it.
Recent calls challenge exclusion policies and demand a new conservation approach in facilitating the coexistence of livestock with wildlife in wild spaces
When researchers from the University of Michigan undertook a study looking at how the Maasai’s cattle affected the wildlife of the Maasai Mara National Reserve (MMNR) in Kenya, their findings told a different story to the conventional narrative. It showed that the presence of livestock in the reserve did not have significant negative effects on wildlife presence or vegetation and soil conditions. Some interesting findings were that the occurrence of all herbivores, rather than cattle alone, better predicted the variations in resource conditions and showed stronger effects. They also discovered that, despite the concentration of livestock near the MMNR boundary, no species avoided the boundary, and the vegetation and soil conditions were comparable at the reserve’s edge and core. There has been considerable backlash to this study. To understand the heated response this study received, we need to understand the context.
The Maasai were a semi-nomadic, pastoralist people that arrived in Kenya and Tanzania in the 17th and 18th centuries and spent hundreds of years roaming across the savannahs with their cattle, which they considered to be a blessing from their deity. Cattle are an integral part of Maasai identity, livelihood and culture. And cattle need land. The “Mara” part of “Maasai Mara” means “spotted” – the Maasai way of describing the tree-dotted landscape of the savannah plains. In the early 1900s, a lot of these lands were claimed for British settlements, and in the 1940s to 1960s, more land was allocated to wildlife reserves, including the MMNR. As a result, many Maasai people have now been relegated to living on the edges of their land, and their pastoralist ways are being eroded.
A Maasai man locks eyes with a giraffe in Amboseli National Park, Kenya
Some portions of the MMNR were later returned to the Maasai community. However, land tenure reform in Kenya has had mixed results, and the subdivision and sale of land portions has resulted in a loss of congruency – in effect, the landscape becomes a mosaic of different land uses, separated by fences controlling access. Some of the Maasai people were able to pool their portions, encouraged by foreign interests, to form private conservancies. These conservancies provide income from tourism and allow managed access to livestock grazing, and this combination has yielded successful outcomes for those beneficiaries. But for those living in Talek, a tiny corner between the conservancies and the Maasai Mara, with no access to either, life has become the essence of the metaphor ‘caught between a rock and a hard place’. Talek is the site where the University of Michigan researchers decided to study how cattle interacted with wildlife and vegetation.
In their study, the researchers point out nuances within the relationship between wildlife and livestock. It is not simply a case of livestock displacing wildlife, or livestock equating to biodiversity loss. These nuances have been pointed out before in other research articles, and it has been concluded previously by Kimuyu et al. that “even if cattle tend to reduce wildlife use of the landscape, managing simultaneously for livestock production (at moderate levels) and biodiversity conservation is possible.”
There is a spectrum of complex interactions between livestock foraging and vegetation responses. Livestock grazing can facilitate benefits for other species and can also result in competition. Much of the reaction is driven by the grazing intensity and whether it is during the wet or dry season. There are indeed both harmful and positive effects of cattle grazing. But, contrary to the assumption that cattle grazing would deplete vegetation and degrade the ecosystem, the study found that the landscape was not negatively affected – if anything, it benefited from the presence of livestock. The researchers’ detailed monthly vegetation analysis revealed that forage quality, including protein and fibre content, remained stable in areas where cattle had grazed. In fact, some grasses rebounded with greater nutritional value after being trimmed by livestock, a process similar to the natural grazing patterns of wild herbivores. This finding challenges the long-standing belief that cattle overgraze and damage protected areas, suggesting instead that moderate grazing may help maintain a healthy mosaic of vegetation types that support diverse wildlife.
However, it cannot be overlooked that the presence of any species has an impact on their surroundings. For example, elephant foraging has positive and negative consequences for vegetation and other species. Cattle have been interacting with wildlife in Africa for thousands of years, and it is not a matter of a recent introduction of cattle. How, then, does one define what “good” or “bad” responses are in an ecosystem? And is the problem exaggerated by those trying to entrench the status quo?
The study found that the landscape was not negatively affected by the presence of livestock – if anything, it benefited from the presence of cattle
Moreover, in the study, wildlife showed no significant avoidance of cattle-grazed areas, reinforcing the idea that livestock presence does not inherently disrupt the ecosystem. Dung sample analyses revealed that herbivores such as wildebeest, zebra, and gazelle continued to frequent areas where cattle had been, with no evidence of displacement. Even buffalo, the only species showing a weak negative association, were not entirely deterred. These results counter the dominant conservation narrative that livestock and wildlife cannot coexist, indicating that under current grazing levels, the Maasai’s pastoral practices do not threaten the reserve’s wildlife populations. This finding opens the door to rethinking conservation strategies, particularly in regions where indigenous herders have been historically marginalised in the name of wildlife protection.
Some ecologists argue that the study’s limited scope may not fully capture the nuanced relationship between cattle and wildlife in the Maasai Mara. While some species adapt to shared grazing, larger herbivores like elephants and buffalo tend to avoid areas with heavy livestock presence. This aligns with broader concerns about overgrazing in parts of the region. But one thing is for sure: shifting conservation policies and land-use practices are shaping wildlife movement and ecosystem health.
Some previous scientific studies investigating the effect of livestock in protected areas have been too broad in scale (expansive aerial surveys) or categorical (such as simplifying comparisons to no livestock versus high livestock densities) to provide overarching insight. Some have been based on correlation only, or have not integrated the fine-scale, multi-species effects. And what about other, non-scientific confounding factors? For example, parties managing protected areas may be prioritising meeting tourists’ expectations of visiting a pure wilderness area, resulting in a policy of no cattle in sight. This then raises questions of ethics. When we start evaluating decisions based on ethics, what changes?
A cheetah surveys the Maasai Mara National Reserve landscape, Maasai herders and their cattle in the background
This scenario has been repeated many times across Africa and other continents, and there have been fiery discussions about how to support these communities on the periphery that are often considered as being “responsible” for human-wildlife conflict. For example, opponents might point to the degradation of the lands of Talek as an example of mismanagement. But the problem is not high density of cattle per se – it is the context and history that has led to the current overgrazing. Talek faces a double burden – it supports resident pastoralists’ livestock, conservancy pastoralists’ livestock (when not in the conservancies) and even wildlife grazing. It is also not connected to other opportunities for rotational grazing. The community are not wealthy enough to move their homes. They are squeezed in the middle, and no matter where they go, they are likely to be trespassing some boundaries. They are fined or arrested if they get caught grazing cattle in the park. If they break the lease of the conservancies by grazing cattle there without obtaining approval, then they lose the leasing income. If one person in the community breaks the lease, there is a risk that all other members of the community will have to forfeit their lease income. This generates a lot of mistrust and tension between the conservancies, the park and the community.
When viewpoints become rigid, opportunities to maximise benefits are overlooked, and the disempowered often lose disproportionately.
Conservationists speak for nature. However, conservation does not take place in a vacuum – it exists in a context, and, as such, there is a clear case here for inviting an ethical assessment. Biodiversity conservation ethics addresses “what should be conserved, how, and why, guiding actions and decisions over values and their potential conflict.” It necessitates engaging with multiple values and following a set of moral principles to guide conservation actions and decision-making. However, Cortés-Capano et al. argue that western positions have “directed conservation strategies by defining the space of legitimate arguments, overlooking solutions that do not fit neatly the chosen approaches [sic]”. Ignoring diverse ethical positions leads to injustices and reduces the potential of conserving biodiversity.
When people lose access to their land, they are not only losing their homes but they have also been displaced from their pursuit of a livelihood (gathering firewood, hunting, grazing etc.). They also experience a feeling of symbolic obliteration from the landscape – their removal from its history, memory, and representation. When people protest, they are protesting the loss of power and control over their environment and the commodification of wildlife into things which tourists can purchase but that locals cannot afford. Communities around Kruger National Park, for example, say that rhinos receive more attention and better protection than people.
So, what would an ethical review of the current impasse look like? In The handbook of conservation and sustainability ethics, it is proposed that the path forward should be determined based on the following principles:
reducing inappropriate actions and recognising where there are no clear solutions;
identifying the most important gaps in scientific knowledge;
inspiring humility among stakeholders; and
generating common ground and transcendent perspectives.
The University of Michigan study provides a compelling case for reconsidering conservation policies in the Maasai Mara and beyond. Rather than supporting strict livestock exclusion, the findings suggest that a more nuanced, context-aware approach could benefit both wildlife and pastoralist communities. With no significant negative impact on biodiversity or habitat conditions, the presence of cattle in MMNR underscores the importance of integrating socio-ecological realities into conservation planning. By acknowledging historical land use, ethical considerations, and local livelihoods, conservationists can work toward solutions that balance ecological integrity with social justice, fostering a more inclusive and sustainable future for both people and wildlife.
What the researchers address in their study on the impacts of livestock encroachment is the need for a new era of conservation – one that encompasses social and environmental justice and focuses on innovative approaches whilst creating common ground. Is there a common ground in this situation? Perhaps it is time to find out.
Kimmerer, R. W. (2013). Braiding sweetgrass. First edition. Minneapolis, Minnesota, Milkweed Editions.
Kirigia, K. & Riamit, K. (2018). Land injustices in Kenya’s wildlife conservancies. Global ejournal, University of California, Series Tourism & Development in Africa: 11 (50). Retrieved November 2024.
The emotions of human-wildlife conflict: Emotions and cultural significance attached to wild carnivores strongly influence mitigation strategies, according to research.
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More Kruger elephants than we thought + Busanga Plains
Did you know that only 37% of the captive wildlife tourism facilities in South Africa demonstrate sound ethics and good practice?
Our safari experts are often asked to include some form of animal sanctuary or encounter in our hand-made itineraries for guests. Our default response is to direct our guests towards trusted facilities such as the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust orphan elephant rescue and rehabilitation program in Kenya. When guests insist on facilities that have shady reputations, we politely refuse to assist them in that regard. There are a handful of ethical facilities with demonstrable benefits for conserving wild animals or easing the plight of previously abused animals. But there are also a plethora of shady, opportunistic facilities that abuse animals for commercial gain – shrewdly shrouded in green-speak and comforting catchphrases for those whose desire to pet wild animals ranks above their moral fortitude.
Yesterday, while waiting for my luggage to appear on the airport conveyor belt, I overheard a gaggle of just-arrived teens who were going to ‘save Africa’s lions’ at a voluntourism trap known for fake claims. I had to suppress the gag reflex.
Wild Choices is a good tool for making up your mind about such facilities in South Africa.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
A wild spotted hyena has been recorded in Egypt – for the first time in 5,000 years – only to be killed in a hit-and-run. This intrepid traveller had crossed the unforgiving Sahara, perhaps lured by better rainfall and prey, but its crime? Helping itself to two goats. Local herders, unimpressed by its historic comeback, tracked it down and took overzealous action, running the hyena over with a vehicle. Researchers who studied photos of the deceased hyena hadn’t expected to see one resurface in Egypt. These predators once roamed a lush landscape alongside elephants and leopards, but the Sahara’s relentless aridification wiped them out. Recent wet cycles, however, may have briefly reopened the door for their return. The fact the hyena made it this far is a testament to the resilience of these carnivores. Was this a lost wanderer or the first of many returning scavengers?
This week, we take a look at Kruger’s elephant numbers – which recent research suggests have been underestimated over the years. And we’ve also put together a guide telling you everything you need to know about visiting Busanga Plains. Check these out below.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Experience the best of Mana Pools – inland and floodplains – with safari expert and photographic guide, Villiers Steyn. This epic photographic safari, led by two expert guides, is for the adventurous traveller and photographer seeking incredible wildlife action. Mana Pools National Park in Zimbabwe offers raw and surreal photographic opportunities. SADC rates available.
Travel with purpose on this unique conservation safari in Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe. Enjoy game drives, bush walks, and community visits while supporting local wildlife. You’ll delve right into the heart of rhino conservation efforts and head out into the field to see how conservation operations play out on the ground. Ride the ‘Elephant Express’ and stay in three special safari camps, including one in the remote heart of Hwange and a community-owned lodge. The revenue from this safari contributes directly to wildlife conservation and the communities that live on Hwange’s borders.
From Kruger’s wild heart to Zanzibar’s vibrant shores, Anik’s family adventure was pure magic – earning us a 5-star review:
“We had another amazing experience with Africa Geographic. Christian was extremely helpful in planning our trip to northern Kruger, South Africa. He also helped us plan the second part of our trip to Mozambique. But when political difficulties in the country seemed likely to interfere with our plans, he and the team were extremely proactive. At the very last minute, they constructed a wonderful alternative itinerary for us to Zanzibar. We were very happy to have these plans in place. In Kruger, we had an amazing and knowledgeable guide who was always happy to discuss any topic in detail, and we enjoyed fantastic accommodations with boardwalk birdwatching and poolside wildlife viewing right along the river. We were extremely happy. In Zanzibar, Christian organised some very down-to-earth cultural excursions, which will be strong family memories forever! We loved biking through the villages, learning to climb coconut palm trees, and meeting and chatting with local kids. And we adored our Swahili cooking lesson!”
WATCH: Liuwa Plain National Park in Zambia has one of the longest conservation histories in Africa. Over the past 20 years, the Barotse Royal Establishment, Zambia’s Department of National Parks and Wildlife, and African Parks have partnered to conserve the park. Today the landscape is a wildlife stronghold, where people and wildlife coexist in a thriving landscape. Watch this inspiring short documentary on why Liuwa Plain is thriving. (05:23) Click here to watch
For just five months of the year, the flood waters on the Busanga Plains recede, and one of Zambia’s best-kept secret wildlife spots is accessible to explore. The vast, fertile grasslands of Busanga Plains are renowned for their concentrations of animals and are the northern jewel of Zambia’s Kafue National Park. This seasonal wetland ecosystem is known for its diversity of antelope species and large lion prides.
Busanga Plains lies in the northern tip of the Kafue National Park – Zambia’s oldest national park and one of the largest in Africa. The plains are part of an ancient lake bed that floods during the rainy season. This wild wetland is home to red lechwe that leap across the shallow channels, lions that hunt in the golden grasses, and elephants that emerge majestically from the early morning mist.
The Lufupa River, a Kafue River tributary, sustains these expansive plains that stretch out for around 720km² (72,000 hectares). Distinct from the rest of Kafue’s miombo woodland, the flat grasslands are dotted with date palms and sausage and fig trees. In summer, the plains flood, leaving only a sprinkling of scattered, elevated islands. In winter, the flood waters recede, revealing a swaying sea of yellowing grass cut through by a network of narrow channels. This mosaic of grasslands attracts herbivores in their thousands.
Busanga Plains is an official Ramsar-recognised wetland system that supports a wide variety of wildlife.
Kafue forms part of a lion conservation unit
The miombo woodlands of Busanga Plains
Miombo woodland characterises most of Kafue, and as the northern parts of the park receive higher rainfall, the miombo is taller and denser here, frequently dominated by the flat-topped, semi-evergreen Julbernardia paniculata. A journey by road to Busanga Plains will find you weaving your way through these woodlands before finally reaching the open plains. Once on the plains, the far treeline is just a shadow on the horizon, with the sky seeming to reach down to touch the earth in every direction you look. In the undulating grasses on either side of the track, pockets of lechwe, puku and buffalo graze while fish eagles’ calls reverberate from the treetops.
Another notable attribute listed by Ramsar is that Busanga Plains is home to a large baobab tree of heritage value. The tree is known by the locals as Mukondakamwale, and is believed to have enclosed three girls (maidens) who sought refuge when it was raining.
Find out about Busanga Plains for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.
Zebras soaking up golden light
Wildlife of Busanga Plains
Busanga Plains is best known for red lechwe, puku and the shy, swamp-dwelling sitatunga. Fifty years ago, lechwe were almost extinct in the area. But numbers have increased enormously since the establishment of the national park, and the sight of huge herds of red lechwe wandering across the golden plains and splashing through the shallow waters is breathtaking.
Other antelope found here are blue wildebeest, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest, defassa waterbuck, impala, the secretive reedbuck and the diminutive oribi – possibly the daintiest and prettiest of them all. Roan antelope are regularly seen, as are herds of sable, sometimes up to 40 strong. Buffalo and zebra are also frequently spotted on the plains. Bushpigs and warthogs also inhabit the plains, almost seeming to prance about on tip-toe. The water channels of the plains also shelter plenty of hippos and catfish.
Bountiful hippos in Busanga Plains
Of course, abundant prey brings an abundance of predators. Sizeable prides of lions, including imposing black-maned males, thrive on the game-rich plains. It is here that lions, that usually dislike getting wet, can often be seen chasing lechwe through the water, even where it’s more than half a metre deep. Since 2005, Kafue, together with South Luangwa National Park, has been regarded as a lion ‘conservation unit’, and it’s not uncommon to see lion prides of up to twenty in number. In fact, estimates suggest there are more lions here than there are beds for travellers!
Large prides of lions stalk the plains
Lions share Busanga Plains with leopard, spotted hyena and wild dogs. The leopards tend to favour the tree-line on the edge of the plains. This is also one of the few places in Zambia where you can see cheetahs, which thrive in the wide open areas. Other carnivores include side-striped jackal, serval, caracal, civet and African wild cat, as well as Selous’ mongoose, white-tailed mongoose, marsh mongoose, honey badger, African clawless otter and spotted-necked otter.
The entirety of Kafue National Park is designated an Important Bird Area by BirdLife International, with over 450 bird species found in the Busanga Plains alone. Chaplin’s barbet, Zambia’s only endemic bird, as well as endangered wattled cranes and grey crowned cranes, all find sanctuary here. Busanga Plains is one of only a handful of known wattled crane breeding sites. Summer migrants include lesser kestrel and Montagu’s harrier, while Ross’ turaco and black-backed barbet are some of Busanga’s ‘specials’. Small termite mounds attract sooty chats. In the wetter areas of the plains, rosy-throated longclaws are found, while the woodlands are home to African hawk-eagles, black-chested snake-eagles, racket-tailed rollers, black-cheeked lovebirds, flocks of helmetshrikes, and sooty and Arnot’s chats. Secretary birds, Böhm’s bee-eaters, paradise flycatchers and sunbirds are abundant.
Endangered wattled cranes find sanctuary in Busanga Plains
The swamps are home to a variety of waterbirds and birding along the channels is spectacular. Collared pratincoles, lesser jacanas and squacco herons abound, as do African spoonbill, and yellow-billed, open-billed and saddle-billed storks. Knob-billed and white-faced whistling ducks are plentiful, as are wattled and blacksmith lapwings. Add flocks of pelicans, every egret you can think of and purple herons to the mix, as well as Pel’s fishing owl, African finfoot, and numerous kingfisher species.
Fishing and history
Kafue National Park was founded as a protected area in the 1920s, before being formally gazetted as a national park in the 1950s. When establishing the park, the government relocated the traditional owners from their villages to the town of Mumbwa, outside the park boundaries. As these villages had been dependent on fishing for generations, they came to an agreement where they retained seasonal fishing rights within the park. During the fishing season, it is, therefore, not uncommon to see fishermen on foot, preparing and manning their fish traps in the channels of Busanga Plains.
Conserving Busanga Plains
Lack of funding over the years had hampered the management of Kafue National Park, allowing poaching, human encroachment and charcoal production to take their toll on both landscape and wildlife. In addition, many illegal tourism camps were built. In 2022, Zambia’s Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW) signed an agreement with NGO African Parks for a 20-year management partnership agreement.
Since 2022, aerial surveys and collaring programmes have shown a growing elephant population, along with an encouraging increase in populations of species such as buffalo, puku, sable and hartebeest. The park has also experienced a 196% increase in tourism revenue, providing an opportunity to deliver critically needed revenue, as well as providing employment and other benefits to local communities. Hundreds of jobs have been created, the park’s rangers and law enforcement teams intensively retrained, and a community education programme established. All of this, and its status as a Ramsar site, translates into better conservation efforts for Busanga Plains.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? You can view and book accommodation in selected African Parks destinations here.
Elephants enjoy the cool waters of Busanga Plains
Explore and stay in Busanga Plains
Busanga Plains is not particularly easy to get to, even by four-wheel drive. If attempting the journey by road, tortuous turns, protruding branches, and a pitted dirt track are the order of the day.
The Busanga Plains are seasonal, and are only accessible between April and October when the floods have receded enough to allow for road transport. But those four months offer some of the best wildlife viewing in Southern Africa, with thousands of red lechwe and puku assembling along the receding water channels.
Red lechwe on the plains
From June to early August, much of the floodplain and the main channels are still full of water. From August to October the Plains drain and dry out, until they are tinder dry again. July – October is usually the best time to visit.
This is not a place where one just pops in for a night or two, the distances here are great, but with a decent budget and some time on your hands, Busanga Plains is definitely worth exploring.
There are a number of bush camps and tented camps on offer in and around Busanga Plains, with many luxury options on offer. Most overlook the plains and offer exceptional experiences in immersing oneself in all they have to offer. See our Busanga Plains packages here.
Red lechwe on the plains
Final thoughts
Busanga is breathtaking, secluded and special. Uncluttered horizons, endless grassy plains, thousands of antelope and swamp-dwelling lions. Raw and off the beaten track, Busanga delivers, and with small visitor numbers, there’s a good chance you’ll have the place almost to yourself, with perhaps just one or two other game-viewing vehicles on the plains.
Red lechwe at sunrise
Further reading
Kafue National Park is Zambia’s oldest and largest national park – known for sweeping plains and wetlands, and abundant and unique wildlife. Read more about Kafue National Park here
Busanga Plains, Kafue, is brimming with wildlife, yet not overwhelmed by tourists. Read Irene Amiet’s travel diary from this Zambian safari spot. Read more about Busanga Plains, the jewel of Kafue here
This travel diary to Busanga Plains in Kafue National Park (Zambia) will have you contacting Africa Geographic to arrange your next safari. Read the travel diary here
Kingsley Holgate & his Afrika Odyssey expedition team are connecting 22 parks managed by African Parks. Read about their trip to Kafue NP. Read more about the Afrika Odyssey Expedition to Kafue here
The elephant is one of Africa’s most ecologically significant species. Monitoring their populations is essential for conservation success at a broad level. South Africa’s Kruger National Park is a refuge for these giants. However, the size of Kruger’s elephant population has been discussed for decades. How do we count the elephants in an area of nearly 2 million hectares? How many elephants are too many? And are elephants really a problem? A new study examines the science of counting Kruger’s elephants.
For decades, scientists and conservationists have debated the size of Kruger National Park’s elephant population. Counting these massive, yet often elusive animals across the national park is no small feat.
New research shows we have been underestimating the number of Kruger’s elephants over the past few years, and improved aerial survey techniques are revealing surprising insights into Kruger’s elephant population. These findings can help us better understand elephant numbers, movement patterns, and ecological impact.
Rethinking how we count
Counting elephants is a challenge. Traditional aerial survey methods in Kruger relied on human spotters, often leading to undercounts or inconsistencies.
For decades, Kruger relied on a ‘total count’ method, which involved surveying river catchment areas and recording every visible elephant seen during flyovers. But, an elephant may not be visible while hiding under a tree, or may be hard to see against certain landscapes. And different spotters may have varying abilities in seeing elephants. Due to high flying speeds, observer fatigue, and the pachyderms blending into the landscape, these total counts often missed seeing several individuals on the ground. This meant a significant portion of the population was not accounted for. This method also leaves room for sample errors. Historic total counts tried to count every single elephant, but elephants don’t stand still.
But the recent study included statistical adjustments in the counting method, to help improve precision. The study authors (Ferreira et al., 2024) used data on elephants encountered during annual rhino aerial surveys in Kruger in 2013, 2015 and 2017 and from the study survey conducted in 2020 to form new estimates.
These sample-based aerial surveys – which focus on specific blocks of land at lower altitudes and slower speeds – provide a more accurate picture. By combining sample counts with statistical models, researchers now estimate that Kruger had approximately 31,324 elephants in 2020 (this number could be between 28,457 and 34,191 at any time in 2020). These results also showed a growth rate of 5.3% yearly since 2013.
This marks an extraordinary recovery from the early 1900s, when elephants in the area now encompassing the Kruger National Park were virtually wiped out due to hunting and habitat destruction.
A large herd crosses the landscape
Detecting elephants: Better methods for better results
The improved precision found in this sample-based survey method has revealed essential nuances in how elephants are counted. Elephants are relatively easy to spot from the air compared to smaller species. But factors such as elephant group size and observer experience can still affect the accuracy of aerial surveys. Researchers found that larger herds were easier to detect than smaller, more dispersed groups. This means that surveys conducted at higher speeds and altitudes, like traditional total counts, often missed smaller groups or solitary animals, leading to underestimations. In contrast, sample-based surveys conducted at slower speeds and lower altitudes improved detection rates, allowing researchers to count more elephants with greater precision.
High flying speeds during total counts meant many elephants were missed or group sizes underestimated
Why elephant numbers are booming
The elephant population has recovered since the early 1900s after conservation efforts improved in the Kruger region. By 1967, when culling was introduced as a management tool, the population had reached more than 7,000. Throughout the culling programme, which took place between 1967 and 1995, management aimed to maintain a population size of 7,000 to 8,500 elephants to prevent overgrazing. With no such interventions today, elephants have surged dramatically. By 2017, Kruger had its largest recorded elephant population, estimated at over 22,000.
But elephant births and deaths alone don’t tell the whole story. The mammals also move in response to environmental pressures. During a recent drought, park management recorded a net movement of elephants into Kruger from private reserves. The study also notes that in times of “limited poaching of elephants in the Kruger” and periods of high poaching pressure in adjacent areas, there were also steep elephant population increases in Kruger.
These migrations complicate population estimates.
More elephants, more impact – but what does that mean?
With over 30,000 of these pachyderms in Kruger, there are concerns about their impact on the park’s ecosystems. They are often described as ‘ecosystem engineers’. And it’s not just about how many elephants are present in the park at any one time. It’s about where they are, and what they do when they are there. “Elephants are key players in the ecosystem. They open dense areas, spread seeds, and even help combat climate change.” said study author Dr Sam Ferreira in a recent article. “But, they can also cause some trouble, like knocking down too many trees in delicate spots.” As such, elephants shape the landscape positively and negatively.
Historically, Kruger relied on artificial waterholes, which allowed elephants to stay in the same areas for longer periods. This led to overgrazing and soil degradation over large tracts of land. Recognising this issue in recent years, Kruger’s management removed many artificial water points, encouraging more natural movement patterns.
Many debates surround the idea that elephants are destroying Kruger’s trees, but the reality is more nuanced. As Ferreira points out: “Saying that 30,000 elephants are destroying Kruger is like blaming a bee for ruining a garden. It’s not that simple. Elephants go where the resources are. When there’s plenty of water and food, they stick around, snack on trees, and, yes, sometimes knock a few over. But when resources shift, so do the elephants.”
Ferreira highlights that Kruger’s management strategy emphasises adaptive management rather than focusing on an ideal elephant number. This involves responding to specific environmental pressures as they arise. For instance, if elephants overuse a sensitive area, management may close nearby waterholes or introduce temporary deterrents to encourage natural movement, says Ferreira.
Kruger elephants at sundown
The bigger picture
Across Africa, elephant populations have been devastated by poaching and habitat loss. Yet, in Kruger (and some other regions), elephants thrive. At the same time, managing a large and ever-dynamic elephant population remains challenging. Simply reducing numbers through interventions like culling is no longer considered a viable solution. Instead, conservationists focus on understanding elephant behaviour, movement, and ecological roles to make decisions.
“At the end of the day, elephants aren’t just numbers on a chart,” says Ferreira. “They’re living, breathing creatures deeply connected to their environment. Managing their population isn’t about finding a magic number – it’s about understanding their impact, learning from history, and making thoughtful decisions.”
Kruger’s elephants remind us that conservation has no fixed formulas but requires ongoing dialogue and exploration. By refining our survey techniques and embracing adaptive management, the stewards of Kruger’s elephants can ensure that the national park remains a thriving haven for elephants and the countless other species that share this remarkable landscape.
Do we have an elephant problem? The ‘elephant problem’ – ecologists, landowners and tourists are grappling with the elephant problem. But what does this mean?
Counting animals – the technology helping conservationists: Counting wild animals can be a complicated process, particularly when estimating populations in some of Africa’s massive protected wild areas. Find out why
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Another tusker falls + leopards’ unique voices + Addo’s elephants
News reached us this week that Paolo, a well-known Amboseli tusker, has died of natural causes. This is a huge loss to Amboseli’s shrinking tusker population. Paolo was among those elephants tallied in Africa Geographic’s estimate of how many tuskers remain in Africa, and his loss means our estimate has decreased, with only about 85 tuskers left. Read more about tusker numbers and our updated estimate here.
When it comes to real estate, white-backed vultures are picky tenants. They build their nests high in the crowns of knobthorn trees – prime property in the African bushveld. But there’s a catch: elephants tend to knock these trees over. But, these savvy scavengers have adapted. Scientists have found that the vultures are now choosing sturdier riverside trees that are less likely to be bulldozed by their giant neighbours. While elephants aren’t the main threat to vulture survival (humans still hold that title), protecting mature knobthorns could help keep both the vultures and trees happy.
This week, we celebrate another haven for elephants, South Africa’s Addo Elephant National Park. We also examine research on an interesting new finding – that leopards have their own unique roars. See these stories below.
Happy celebrating Africa to you!
Taryn van Jaarsveld – Editor, Africa Geographic
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Whether you are a passionate beginner or a seasoned creator, this unique art safari offers the chance to hone your skills with professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls. Soak up the atmosphere of Big-5 Timbavati Private Nature Reserve in Greater Kruger, South Africa and channel it into artistry! 2–8 September 2025: only 2 spots left!
Be captivated by the rawness of the Greater Kruger wilderness. This one-of-a-kind mobile-camping safari is for adventurous travellers. Walk the bushveld with a guide and trackers while the ground team moves your tented camp to a new location every night. This soul-food safari will reconnect you with nature and recharge your batteries.
Emily’s primate safari through Uganda, Rwanda, and DRC was nothing short of magical! She left us a glowing 5-star review:
“Christian from Africa Geographic was able to design a fantastic, unique and authentic primate viewing trip for us. But it included so much more. Apart from the wonderful itinerary, I found the activities and lodges to be very smartly selected, and all provided a wealth of amazing discoveries. I felt safe and loved connecting with the drivers. Without AG, I would never have had the opportunity to meet the people I did. All the members of my hosting team were reliable, informed and lovely to be with. I highly recommend using AG to design a once-in-a-lifetime experience.” – Emily
WATCH: Lions once ruled Africa, but with fewer than 20,000 left, their future is uncertain. Award-winning filmmaker Bruce Donnelly and lion conservationist Dr. Paul Funston journey across southern Africa to uncover the last strongholds of these iconic cats, the challenges they face, and the people fighting to save them. Watch the highlights from A Place For Us, a powerful documentary made in association with the Southern African Conservation Trust on the battle to secure a future for Africa’s lions. (07:33) Click here to watch
Leopards are masters of stealth, making them challenging to study in the wilderness. But a groundbreaking new study has found a new way to identify these elusive cats: not by sight, but by sound. By analysing their unique roars, researchers have unlocked an innovative, non-invasive method to track and conserve leopards.
The leopard is one of the most sought-after Big 5 animals to view on an African safari. You will not find leopards in large numbers, as they are solitary. These masters of stealth are also more active at night, making them even more challenging to find.
This is a challenge not only for tourists but also for counting leopards and for the owners of land where leopards are present. A leopard’s furtiveness makes it nearly impossible for humans to gain insight into the number of individuals present in a local population. At the same time, leopard numbers are declining, and they are listed as vulnerable on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. How can we preserve a species that is difficult to find?
Camera traps are possibly one of the most important tools in studying leopards. Just like humans have unique fingerprints, leopards all have unique spot patterns, and visuals from camera traps allow us to identify individual leopards. However, a new study published in Remote Sensing in Ecology and Conservation offers a novel approach to identifying leopards: listening to their voices.
Researchers studying leopard vocalisation have found that every individual cat animal has a unique voice.
The study, which aimed to determine whether it was possible to identify individual leopards by their unique calls, took place in Nyerere National Park in Tanzania over 62 days. This is the firs, large-scale (~450km2) study of large African carnivores that pairs passive acoustic monitoring and camera trapping. Analysing photographic data, researchers identified 42 individual leopards present in the study area based on their distinctive rosette patterns. They then correlated these visual identifications with concurrent audio recordings, focusing on the leopards’ characteristic sawing roars.
The team deployed 64 stations across the approximately 450km2 area, strategically placing paired camera traps and custom-built autonomous recording units (CARACALs). The CARACALs recorded audio continually, while camera traps captured photographic evidence. Researchers then identified individual leopards by looking at their distinctive rosette patterns in the camera trap images and extracted their roaring bouts in the concurrent audio. Using this technique, the researchers identified individual leopards with a 93% success rate.
According to Jonathan Growcott, a PhD student at the University of Exeter in England and the study’s primary author, the idea to use bioacoustics stemmed from anecdotal evidence suggesting individual leopards have distinct roars. “Combined with the fact that other large carnivores such as lions, wild dogs, and spotted hyenas all have unique vocalisations, it made sense that this potentially also transferred across to leopards.”
Researchers found that leopards can actually be quite vocal – although it is easy to assume otherwise, with infrequent encounters leading to this misconception. Limited pre-existing research on leopard vocalisations highlights the significance of this study.
Attaching the custom-built autonomous recording units in a tree
A project of this scale does not come without its challenges. Apart from the massive team effort involving multiple organisations, conditions in the reserve at the time of the study also made the research process difficult. “We dealt with flooding and incredibly difficult black cotton soil, which made roads impassable. We did not let this stop us, however. Instead, we embarked on foot to recover all of our data,” explains Growcott. He explains that, when working in a wild environment, animals could also cause problems. “On one occasion, a lion decided to investigate our acoustic unit, which was screwed into a tree. This individual promptly spent a good 20 minutes chomping and chewing at it. Remarkably, the SD card contained within the unit survived. I have some incredible audio of a lion, up close and personal.”
When asked if the results were at all what the team expected, Growcott said the accuracy of the results was quite exciting, especially with the basic methods used. “The methodology used is quite a basic principle in computer science and has been used in human-speech recognition algorithms for quite some time. So, to be able to achieve this kind of result without the need for more complex AI is encouraging.”
Landowners and reserves with leopards can deploy the same techniques, though there are some cost implications initially. To conduct a dual-technology survey from scratch would rely on a significant initial investment to purchase all the necessary equipment. Growcott says the costs would be split across an extended period, however, so monitoring can occur for multiple years, making the initial investment worthwhile.
The study’s findings hold significant implications for leopard conservation. Identifying individual leopards through their roars provides a powerful new non-invasive tool for monitoring populations, estimating densities, and tracking individual movements. This method overcomes many of the limitations associated with traditional methods such as collaring, offering a more efficient and cost-effective approach to studying elusive species.
The project was made possible due to collaboration between the University of Exeter, the Wildlife Conservation Unit at the University of Oxford, the Frankfurt Zoological Society, the Tanzania Wildlife Institute for Research, Lion Landscapes, and the Tanzania National Parks Authority.
Spot the difference – do leopards inherit their patterns from their mothers? Research shows that leopards inherit their patterns of rosettes and whisker spots from their mothers – an exciting finding in leopard genetics.
Recently declared Nyerere National Park, formerly part of Selous Game Reserve in Tanzania, is one of Africa’s most rugged wilderness areas. Learn more about Nyerere.
Tucked away in South Africa’s Eastern Cape, Addo Elephant National Park is a conservation triumph and a wildlife lover’s paradise. Home to the Big 7, spanning diverse landscapes, and boasting an incredible comeback story for its elephant population, Addo is far more than just another safari destination. It’s a place where nature thrives, history lingers, and unexpected treasures – both great and small – await around every corner.
Addo is, of course, all about the elephants. It is near impossible to visit this park without multiple encounters with the gentle giants every day – whether from viewing hides or from the comfort of a vehicle. Addo isn’t just about the grand and mighty; it’s about the unseen, the unsung, and the utterly fascinating details that make this park a world of wonders. And with elephants come all manner of other wonders. While the elephants steal the show, some may argue that Addo’s real kings of the road are a bunch of tiny, tireless dung beetles. In this extraordinary park, they have the right of way – literally. While you’re gazing at majestic herds, these little workhorses are busy rolling, burying, and recycling the remains of elephant feasts.
The park – a malaria-free safari destination – is situated only 30 minutes from Gqeberha (formerly Port Elizabeth) and is ideal for a solid dose of nature – including marine life. It is the third largest South African National Park and spans multiple biomes, making it great for more extended visits. It provides an opportunity for lots to do and plenty to explore.
A herd of elephants marches towards the waterhole
From humble beginnings
When Addo was first proclaimed in 1931, its primary objective was to conserve the Eastern Cape’s dwindling elephant population. The park owes its very existence to the tireless efforts of visionary conservationists who recognised the urgent need to safeguard the 11 remaining elephants in the face of rampant hunting during the early 20th century.
Since those humble beginnings, the park has expanded its boundaries and incorporated diverse habitats to accommodate an ever-growing array of wildlife species. This strategic expansion has transformed Addo into the vibrant, multi-faceted ecosystem it is today, a testament to the power of conservation and the resilience of nature.
According to the park management plan (2015-2025), Addo covers approximately 178,918 hectares (46,932 hectares of which are in the process of being declared part of the national park). Addo’s Marine Protected Area covers 7,022 hectares, and protects a wide range of ecosystems, including sandy beaches, rocky shores, reefs, an estuary and islands. This includes St Croix and Bird Islands, essential breeding grounds for seabirds, including African penguins and Cape gannets.
Cape gannets on Addo’s Bird Island
Addo’s landscape
Addo hosts incredible plantlife and is home to five of South Africa’s nine biomes: Albany Thicket in the original Addo section (also in the Kabouga, Colchester and Nyathi sections), Forest in the Woody Cape area and Zuurberg section, Fynbos in the Zuurberg section, Nama Karoo in the Darlington section, and finally, the Indian Ocean Coastal Belt on Addo’s coastal side – which contains remarkable displays of coastal dunes and grassy plains.
The beach at the Woody Cape section of Addo
Due to the presence of major roads and operational railway lines, and certain pieces of land that do not form part of the national park, some sections of the park are still in separate, fenced-off units. And not all sections of the park, such as Zuurberg and Woody Cape, are fenced.
The Addo Main Camp Area, Colchester, Nyathi and Darlington sections are fenced off, and elephants are thus able to traverse these areas of the park.
Addo hosts abundant wildlife
At the heart of the Addo Elephant National Park are the majestic African elephants, whose remarkable comeback since the establishment of the park exemplifies the park’s conservation success story.
Addo is home to the Big 5
This sanctuary is the only park in South Africa to feature the awe-inspiring Big 7 – the traditional Big 5 (lion, elephant, black rhino, buffalo and leopard), as well as the iconic southern right whale and the mighty great white shark along its coastal reaches. Other ocean specials to keep an eye out for – sometime seen from the shore (though best viewed on a specialised tour) – are bottlenose dolphins, common dolphins, humpback dolphin, orcas and three other whale species: Bryde’s Whales, minke Whales and humpback whales.
Addo’s diverse terrestrial landscapes are home to an abundance of other wildlife. Stately kudu, graceful eland, and the nimble red hartebeest are just a few of the antelope species that roam the park. Leopards are very rare, though present.
The main game-viewing areas host the distinctive Burchell’s zebra, while the Darlington Dam and Zuurberg sections are the domain of the majestic Cape mountain zebra. Springbok, black wildebeest, and gemsbok thrive in the dryer Darlington Dam region, while the tree dassie inhabits the lush Woody Cape forests.
It’s other notable resident, the endemic Addo flightless dung beetle, does a brilliant job at removing the piles of elephant dung from the road surface, so drive carefully and keep your eyes open to see them in action.
Addo is also home to Cape buffaloA playfight breaks out on the plainsOn a mission to make it in time for sundownersA majestic kudu bull looks on
Feathered friends of Addo
If you are also on the lookout for birdlife, more than 400 species have been recorded within Addo’s boundaries due to the different vegetation types. You will find the SASOL Red Bishop Bird Hide in the main rest camp and the Spekboom Hide in the game viewing area in the Albany Thicket biome. A bird always active in the main rest camp is the bokmakierie, as are sunbirds, fork-tailed drongo and kingfishers. Keep an eye out for black korhaan, Denham’s bustard and secretarybird amongst others in the main game viewing area.
For forest specials, visit the Alexandria Forest section. You’ll find Knysna turaco, Narina trogon, black cuckoo in summer, Chorister robin-chat, grey cuckoo-shrike, and the dark-backed weaver. Zuurberg, with its wooded kloofs, is home to African crowned eagle, Cape batis, olive bushshrike and more. For Karoo endemics, head to the Darlington section where you can find Karoo chat, pririt batis, and rufous-eared warbler. The Darlington Dam hosts freshwater terns, grey-headed gulls and goliath herons. For seabirds, head to the ocean and the Sundays River Mouth.
A road begging to be explored through the Alexandria Forests
Things to do in Addo
Addo has no shortage of activities, so there will never be a dull moment. The scenery in the park is diverse, so exploring the different sections of the park will be like being in a different location each time. The main rest camp features a play area for the little ones, a bird hide and underground hide, a swimming pool, a restaurant, an interpretive centre where you can learn about Domkrag, the legendary tortoise that lifted cars, and more.
If you love military history, the Bedrogfontein 4×4 Trail between Kabouga and Darlington should be on your bucket list. This 45km route has many remnants of the Anglo-Boer War, with rock art paintings and leftovers of fierce battles scattered along the way, including that of an old wagon.
Sundowners
To immerse yourself in Addo’s landscape, head to the Woody Cape coastal section and visit the Alexandria Coastal Dunefield, approximately 88km long. It is home to the most extensive and least degraded moving dune system in the southern hemisphere, including several archaeological sites such as middens made by nomadic strandloper people. These middens contain shells and bones of animals eaten by the people and fragments of pottery and stone implements. White mussel shells found in these middens also occur in the caves of the Zuurberg Mountains, proving that the strandlopers journeyed and stored their food over vast distances.
If you prefer getting active and exploring on foot, there is 36km circular Alexandria Hiking Trail in the Woody Cape section. There is also a shorter 7km Tree Dassie Trail exploring the Alexandria Forest. The mountainous Zuurberg section also has a 2km and 8km trail.
Spotting a little one at the waterhole
Explore and stay in Addo
Ensure you have enough time when visiting this gem, especially if you want to explore the whole park. Whether you are seeking a rustic bush experience or a luxurious retreat, Addo provides a wealth of accommodation options to cater to every preference. The main rest camp serves as the primary hub, boasting various options – from camping to glamping and chalets to charming cottages and even spacious guesthouses for bigger groups. The Narina bush camp and Woody Cape sections provide secluded sanctuaries amongst lush vegetation for those seeking a more secluded forest escape. And for the ultimate indulgence, the park’s concession lodges offer unparalleled luxury.
Embark on the journey and discover a haven where the elephants roam with confidence, where the landscapes dazzle with their natural beauty, and where the wonders of the wild await to captivate your senses and ignite your spirit of adventure if you have never visited Addo a whole new world of exploring awaits!
Nap time
Further reading
Bush or beach? There’s no need to choose, with these African safari destinations offering the best of both ocean & wildlife experiences. Check out the best one-stop bush and beach safari destinations here.
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Big cats + the ominous wild dog landscape
It’s THAT time of year! Our annual celebration of Africa’s magnificence and your photographic talents begins tomorrow – teamAG is on standby for your 2025 Photographer of the Year entries.
And this year the prize for our three winners and their partners is extra-special – brought to you by African Parks and Ukuri. They will join an Africa Geographic expedition to Odzala-Kokoua National Park in Congo-Brazzaville to search for lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes and flocks of grey parrots. And what about the dwarf crocodiles, golden pottos, Demidoff’s dwarf galagos, Lord Derby’s flying squirrels and the host of other mysterious creatures that you won’t find on too many other safaris?
What a joy for my team and me to review the influx of entries (expect the usual weekly galleries) and a privilege that you trust us with your photographic treasures. Thank you.
This is also the time of year when countless brown-veined white butterflies flutter by – wave after wave of these angelic spirits migrating east over the Kruger National Park towards Mozambique. A few days ago, I was cycling into a gentle summer breeze along one of the Greater Kruger fencelines, which was channelling thousands of butterflies towards me. What a special moment when time stood still, and nature enveloped me in a gentle Utopian hug. Life is good.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Move over, hip flasks and CamelBaks. Did you know that elephants have the best built-in hydration system? The pharyngeal pouch, found just behind an elephant’s tongue, is a hidden reservoir that can store up to four litres of water. Elephants can use this to quench their own thirst or offer a life-saving sip to a calf, allowing them to stay hydrated when surface water is scarce. And the pouch isn’t just for drinking – it doubles as a cooling system and even helps amplify the elephants’ low-frequency rumbles. Desert-adapted elephants (always prepared for the worst) have even bigger pouches, making them the champions of drought survival. In Africa, it pays to be resourceful!
We can’t wait to see your Photographer of the Year 2025 entries. In celebration of the competition launch, we’ve put together a gallery of our favourite big cat images from past competitions – and included a few fascinating facts about the cats to boot. Plus, researchers have just found that wild dogs are hunting harder for less due to prey scarcity. Check these stories out below.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
This safari delivers two of Africa’s most popular safari meccas: iconic Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, and Chobe – Botswana’s most popular national park. Enjoy an activity every day, from river cruises to game drives, a helicopter flip over Victoria Falls and, for the more adventurous, optional bungee jumping and river rafting – and so much more!
This walking safari tracks the wise old elephant herds as they follow the Galana River through Tsavo National Park, Kenya. Sharing the elephants’ home on equal footing and encountering the famous maneless lions, gerenuks and hirolas of Tsavo will supersede any previous game-viewing experiences you’ve had. Stay in beautiful camps harking back to a bygone era, and explore the surroundings on game drives in the afternoons. The perfect balance between comfort and adventure.
Tsavo Trust safeguards Tsavo Conservation Area’s iconic tuskers, but they need wings to do it. They’re halfway to funding a helicopter – vital for vet work, collaring, rhino darting, and tackling human-wildlife conflicts. Without it, patrolling Tsavo’s vast, roadless wilderness is near impossible.
$250,000 stands between them and the sky. Will you help? Every donation to our Guarding Tuskers campaign keeps conservation airborne. Donate now. Make an impact. Keep watch over Tsavo.
WATCH: SAVING AFRICA’S LAST TUSKERS: There are only 10 super tusker elephants left in East Africa’s Greater Amboseli ecosystem, and less than 100 remain throughout the continent. At least six of these tuskers were shot by trophy hunters last year when they crossed over the Kenyan border into Tanzania. Check out this documentary to hear informed perspectives of the onslaught on these iconic animals. (16:31) Click here to watch
Africa’s iconic big cats – the lion, leopard, and cheetah – are majestic predators that inspire awe and fascination. From the lion’s regal strength to the leopard’s stealth and the cheetah’s unmatched speed, each species plays a vital role in the intricate web of the African wilderness. We celebrate these three magnificent feline species by delving into their unique habitats, behaviours, and striking characteristics, complemented by breathtaking photos from our Photographer of the Year competitions. Discover what makes these magnificent felines truly extraordinary.
The lion (Panthera leo) was once described in Samuel Johnson’s Dictionary of the English Language (1755) as “the fiercest and most magnanimous of the four-footed beasts”. This rings true with these magnificent felines! Then there is the leopard (Panthera pardus), considered to be an elegant and powerfully built predator. It is the most secretive and elusive big cat, and arguably one of the most beautiful members of the entire Panthera genus. And let’s not forget the cheetah(Acinonyx jubatus). Built for speed, this sleek and beautiful cat has one of the most prominent, distinguishing features that makes it easily identifiable in the wild: dark ‘tear marks’ which run from the corner of its eyes down the sides of the nose to its mouth.
Below, we share some of the fascinating realities of the lives of big cats.
African lions have a wide habitat and can live almost everywhere – from open woodlands, thick bush, scrub and grass complexes, even penetrating deep into deserts along watercourses – though don’t expect to find them in rainforests. Globally, lions exist in Asia and sub-Saharan Africa, though history shows that a long time ago, lions also inhabited parts of southwest Asia and north Africa.
Cheetahs can be found in a wide range of habitats, including grasslands, open plains, woodlands, savannahs, and arid regions extending to desert fringes. Their habitat is determined more by the abundance of prey and lack of other big predators, but a balance of cover and visibility is important.
Leopards are spectacular hunters! Not only are they quite fast and can run up to 58km/h, but are also famous for their incredible agility and strength to climb trees while dragging a kill that is sometimes heavier than their body weight.
According to research, cheetahs change their behaviour when handling large kills based on the threats presented by lions and hyenas. Cheetahs do not have the strength to haul their prey up trees as leopards do, nor can they defend themselves against larger predators, such as lions and hyenas. This is why they have developed certain tactics when it comes to hunting and eating their prey, and research shows that they tend to hunt when larger predators are away or less active. A cheetah’s diet usually comprises of smaller animals such as gazelles, wildebeest calves, impalas, ground birds, porcupines and hares. Coalitions of large males will take on larger animals such as wildebeest.
Unlike lions and leopards, cheetahs have dog-like non-retractable claws, which gives them a lot of traction when running. This limits their tree-climbing ability but gives them a speed advantage when hunting down their prey.
When it comes to hunting, lions are opportunistic but favour larger ungulates such as buffalo, wildebeest, zebra and gemsbok. Lions will gorge themselves into a food coma when there is plenty of food available, and on days like this, an average male lion will swallow around 15% of their body weight!
Upon closer inspection, you will see that lions have round pupils, instead of vertical slits that are found in domestic cats. Having pupils that are vertical slits is handy for cats that are on the prowl for small prey and need to be able to focus clearly on the small stuff. However, larger felines such as lions generally hunt larger prey, so there is unlikely to be a significant advantage to having slit pupils. Having round pupils also allows more light to filter into the eye at night, giving the lion better night vision.
A lion cub tries to nudge dad, but the male is grumpy. At the click of the shutter, a fly passes through the focus point and the pupil of the eye. The blunt teeth indicate an old male – but clearly, one still to be feared. Cubs always tread lightly around the males, weary of a swipe. Photographer of the Year 2021 winning image
Social lives and unique behaviours of big cats
The cheetah’s social system of solitary females and social males is unique among cats. Females raise their cubs on their own, teaching them a variety of survival skills. At around 18 months, the mother leaves the cubs, who then form a sibling group which can stay together for up to six months. By two years old, the female cheetahs leave the group, while the males often remain together for life. The males usually form small coalitions of between four and six cheetahs that can include unrelated males.
Leopards mate throughout the year, but a higher sexual activity is recorded during the rainy season. To recognise a male from a female leopard, take a look at the difference in size. Males are usually much larger and stockier and have a significantly bigger head and paws compared to females. Male bushveld leopards can weigh up to 90kgs, with females around 60kgs. The Cape leopard (not a separate species or sub-species) is much smaller with males around 35kg and females around 20kg.
Lions are the most sociable member of the cat family and can be found living in prides of up to 25 individuals. The size of the pride depends on the area and prey availability. A pride will usually consist of 1-4 adult males, several adult females (one dominant), and several sub-adults and cubs.
Lions, leopards and cheetahs are mortal enemies. Lions and leopards frequently rob cheetahs of their hard-earned meals, and even kill adult and baby cheetahs, in the ongoing brutal battles amongst predators over resources. In South Africa, in areas with large carnivore densities, cheetahs can lose up to around 10% of their kills to lions and spotted hyenas. Lions will also kill leopard cubs, as well as adult leopards. Leopards may prey on or kill lion cubs if they are left unattended.
Female leopards protect their young cubs by hiding them in lairs. Lairs can be found in a variety of places, including outcrops of granite boulders; old aardvark holes made in the side of termite mounds, or in dense thickets at the bottom of deep galleys.
These hiding places serve as a refuge for when the mother is away, as lions and hyenas pose a great threat to the cubs. The mother changes the lair every few days to eliminate the chances of discovery by other predators.
Unlike other cats, leopards are strong swimmers. Lions can swim, but only if necessary – such as when having to cross a river. Other than that, they will avoid getting into the water where possible.
How do you tell the difference between a leopard, cheetah and jaguar? Look at the spots. Leopards have rosette spots on the body and solid black spots on the legs, head and sides. There are also no black facial stripes, unlike cheetahs. Compared to jaguars, leopards do not have smaller spots inside the polygonal rosettes.
Every now and then, nature experiments by producing a black or white mutation of an animal or bird that is otherwise normally coloured. There is something magical about seeing a white lion, black leopard or ‘king’ cheetah in the wild, as if it were a spiritual shadow of the species, a form of higher being.
In recent Photographer of the Year competitions, we have received a slew of entries featuring black leopards from Laikipia, Kenya. Black leopards are not considered to be separate species or subspecies – instead, their unusual colouration is a result of rare genetic traits. Melanism (black) results in an excess of dark pigmentation. The condition is hereditary but can skip generations. These mysterious cats are believed to be more common in forested areas where their atypical colouring works to hide them in the shadows. Below, Nick Kleer captured an image of one of Laikipia’s black leopards. Laikipia is home to the largest known population of black leopards.
The colour of a lion’s coat varies from region to region and within populations. However, it is found that lions that live in areas that are either cooler or have higher humidity levels tend to have darker fur – such as the desert-adapted lions in Namibia and the black-maned lions of the Kalahari. You also get white lions, but these are not true albinos but are rather genetic variants with strongly reduced pigmentation.
Cheetah cubs have a long, silver-grey mantle of hair running down their necks and backs. The mantle is thought to help the cubs blend into the grass, hiding them from predators. The mantle also works as a mimicry defence by resembling a honey badger, a fierce animal most predators avoid.
Cheetahs in the Serengeti National Park change their behaviour when handling large kills based on the threats presented by lions and hyenas, according to researchers.
The African wild dog, a master of teamwork and hunting precision, faces a survival crisis that even its formidable skills can’t overcome. Once primarily threatened by competition with lions and hyenas, these endangered predators are now battling a more insidious foe: prey depletion caused by bush-meat poaching. A groundbreaking study reveals how dwindling prey populations are forcing wild dogs to expend unsustainable energy in their hunts, jeopardising their survival and reproduction. As conservationists race to restore balance, the future of these painted wolves hangs in the balance. René de Klerk reports
The African wild dog is among the most formidable predators roaming the African wilderness. These canines are renowned for their fierce hunting prowess. They can take down prey much bigger than themselves with unparalleled efficiency and speed. Working in well-coordinated packs, they quickly overwhelm their victim, a lesson in teamwork and strategic precision.
However, their numbers are dwindling despite their ability to hunt so successfully. African wild dogs, also known as painted wolves, are among the world’s most endangered large carnivores. Only around 6,000 remain in the wild, and they are listed as Endangered on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. Their survival is a critical conservation concern.
In the past, the presence of spotted hyenas and lions was the main contributing factor that would limit wild dog numbers. Weighing in at a mere 20–25 kilograms, wild dogs are dwarfed by their larger competitors. They stand at less than half the size of a spotted hyena and only a fifth the stature of a lioness, giving them a distinct disadvantage. Wild dogs often have to surrender their hard-earned meals to hyenas.
Hyenas are one of the wild dog’s most formidable challengers
Furthermore, lions will easily kill wild dogs. In many savannah ecosystems, wild dogs are absent despite the abundance of prey, as lions and hyenas thrive in these ecosystems, pushing wild dogs out of the picture. However, wild dogs have previously persisted by finding prey while avoiding their dominant competitors and are, therefore, still present in several significant populations across the continent.
However, a new study conducted by the Zambian Carnivore Programme shows that the landscape is drastically changing for African wild dogs. Prey depletion is forcing these painted predators into marathon hunts, burning energy they can’t afford to lose. The problem isn’t just competition anymore; it’s survival against a shrinking menu.
The study highlights that the primary concern for wild dogs is not just competition with other dominant predators: the modern world presents a new set of challenges for these painted wolves. Large herbivores are declining across Africa due to bush-meat poaching, and this prey depletion has fundamentally shifted the problems that African wild dogs must overcome to persist. The ability to bring down prey up to eight times their weight means nothing when prey is no longer available to hunt.
Wild dogs take down a puku in South Luangwa National Park
The study compared wild dog packs in two distinct Zambian ecosystems – one in the well-protected South Luangwa National Park, where prey remains abundant, and another in the Greater Kafue Ecosystem, where decades of bush-meat poaching have significantly reduced prey populations.
The results painted a stark picture. When wild dogs hunt in prey-depleted areas, the energetic costs of hunting increase, and the benefits decrease. When prey was scarce, wild dogs were forced to travel much greater distances daily, expelling more energy while capturing smaller meals. This change in the “energy landscape” sheds light on why declining prey populations reduce survival and reproduction rates for wild dogs.
Researchers found that one Kafue pack, consisting of only four members, had to leave their pups unattended in the den (something not usually done) as they needed every pack member present to hunt successfully. On one occasion, after travelling over 6km in search of prey, the pack found very few hunting opportunities. A diminutive duiker was all they could obtain – hardly enough meat to satisfy the pack and the pups in the den. Despite facing fewer lions and hyenas, the lack of food means this pack has a lower survival rate and produces fewer offspring.
The situation was considerably different for the South Luangwa pack, where prey was abundant. The alpha female and her 10 pups stayed in the den while 14 fellow pack members went out to hunt. They killed two impalas, returning satisfied and regurgitating several kilograms of fresh meat to feed the female and her pups. Unlike the Kafue pack, this pack only had to trot a short 2km back to the den.
To conduct the study, the researchers equipped 16 packs of wild dogs in the two ecosystems with lightweight accelerometers attached to their radio collars. Some packs had more prey opportunities than others with lower food availability. The researchers aimed to examine how their actions affected their energetic costs and benefits by tracking the distances they covered, their speed, and how often they made kills. For wild dogs, energy translates into survival and reproduction.
The results gained from the 16 packs studied were precise. In the Greater Kafue Ecosystem, where prey is scarce, the majority of wild dog packs had to travel significantly further each day, expending far more energy in their hunts. Despite this increased effort, they secured smaller meals. The energetic cost of hunting has become unsustainable, impacting survival and reproduction rates.
In contrast, wild dog packs in the well-protected South Luangwa National Park, with abundant prey, exhibited much lower energetic costs and tremendous hunting success. This directly translates to higher survival and reproductive rates.
The study highlights the critical link between prey depletion and wild dog survival, highlighting the urgent need for effective conservation strategies.
Wild dog pups in South Luangwa
Recent efforts to control poaching in the Kafue ecosystem have slowly started to have an impact.
To undo the damage of the past, a new multifaceted approach, combining law enforcement with community-based initiatives that provide alternative livelihoods and incentives for conservation, might be the answer. The researchers suggest that focusing on restoring prey populations by controlling illegal bush-meat poaching will help improve prospects for packs facing the altered energy landscape. They suggest this can be achieved through a combination of law enforcement and programs to provide incentives and alternatives.
Improved conservation efforts in Kafue National Park may already be bettering the situation.
In 2022, the Government of Zambia entered into a 20-year-agreement with non-profit organisation African Parks to secure the protection and effective management of Kafue and help overcome a number of the significant challenges facing the park. Since then, poaching and deforestation have been on the decline, wildlife monitoring is back in place, and plans are afoot to bring in wildebeest, zebra and buffalo to restore their numbers. In addition, hundreds of jobs have been created, the park’s rangers and law enforcement teams have been retrained, and community education programmes have been implemented.
Improving conservation efforts in Kafue could provide benefits all around: increased wild dog populations, a recovery in prey numbers, and a boost to lion and hyena numbers.
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Hunting unpacked + Photographer of the Year 2025
We must openly debate extraction industries like trophy hunting, using science as our foundation. Constructive debate involves respect for each other and factual accuracy.
The alternative is what we have today – emotional social media dogfights providing a distraction for conservationists and cover for a minority of unchecked hunting operators in their quest to surgically remove dwindling genetic icons – nature’s evolutionary trump cards and pathfinders.
Please read my opinion editorial below and share it far and wide. Click here to access the link and share it on social media. The wider the net, the more likely our chances of stamping out unsustainable behaviour. Feel free to email me your thought-provoking feedback.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Sometimes, you just want your space and a side of community – no strings attached. Just ask the bush Karoo rat – a master of contradictions. The rat is the poster child for the loner lifestyle, living solo and foraging independently. But beneath its solitary exterior lies a social soul. Surprising new research shows these tiny rodents, nestled in South Africa’s Namaqualand, happily coexist with their close kin. Researchers found that small kin groups can form between pairs of relatives. Their home ranges overlap, they are able to alert each other to predators, and might even swap snacks.
Turns out, being a loner doesn’t preclude the occasional chit-chat or resource-sharing with family. The findings suggest the rats’ ancestors lived in pairs, evolving solitary living as a unique adaptation. Understanding this mammalian social evolution could help conservation efforts for solitary species. The Karoo rat reminds us: living solo doesn’t mean you’re antisocial.
This week, we have exciting news. Photographer of the Year 2025 is just around the corner – and opens for entries on 1 February. This year, our winners receive a once-in-a-lifetime prize: an incredible trip to Odzala-Kokoua NP in Congo-Brazzaville. More on that soon enough – and you can learn more here. It’s time to start gathering your best pics of life in Africa! In celebration, and eager anticipation, we invited our 2024 Photographer of the Year, Dewald Tromp, to share some of his favourite photos with you. Check out Dewald’s portrayal of life on the African savannah below. And don’t miss Simon’s thoughtful introspection on the intricacies of trophy hunting.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Glamping at its best Explore all of northern Botswana during prime season on a fully catered mobile safari. Explore Moremi, Khwai, Savute and the Chobe River waterfront in northern Botswana. Led by experienced guides, you’ll track big cats and wild dogs, and glide silently down meandering waterways in search of glittering birds and exciting wildlife.
This bumper safari is about water – or the lack thereof. This adventure will take you from the majestic Victoria Falls to the watery wilderness of the Okavango Delta, and from the predator-rich northern Botswana floodplains to the remote Central Kalahari and desolate salt pans. The wildlife that thrives in these landscapes is as astonishing as it is varied. 11 days of safari splendour.
Our travel experts have had a busy few months exploring extraordinary destinations and testing out the best experiences for our safari clients: from South Africa to Zimbabwe, Tanzania, Kenya, Botswana and more! Their thorough research will ensure an authentic handcrafted safari experience for you. That’s how we know the what, when, where and who of creating a dream safari. Will you choose AG to plan your unforgettable adventure?
WATCH: Photographer of the Year 2025 is open for entries from 1 February to 30 April. We’re looking for your photos that celebrate Africa and capture the continent’s splendour. Learn more and check out this year’s fabulous prize – a trip to incredible Odzala-Kokoua NP in Congo-Brazzaville. (1:37) Click here to watch
Hunting remains one of the most contentious topics in conservation. Simon Espley shares how he unpacks its complexities – exploring the moral dilemmas, scientific perspectives, and the nuanced benefits and challenges of hunting practices.
“Do you have a personal standpoint about hunting?” is a question I am often asked. Yes, I do.
First, though, know that hunting is a layered and complex topic, and the debates that rage on social media are usually tainted by ideological or vested interest viewpoints for or against. Most ignore the complexities and detail; instead, they draw straight, rigid lines to fit their beliefs and needs.
One layer of complication is that killing animals for fun and ego seems just plain wrong (a personal bias). Yet, sometimes, there are proven benefits for biodiversity and local people. That presents a dilemma – where personal feelings clash with biological reality. Also, hunting in fenced farms and reserves has different implications to hunting free-ranging wildlife. Then, there is the crucial distinction between trophy hunting versus culling and hunting for food. And yet social media discussions seldom differentiate.
Not to be overlooked is the government’s role in creating the hunting industry’s environment – from short land-concession periods (discouraging investment and promoting short-term behaviour) to corruption, lack of accountability and transparency, poor governance and lack of regulatory implementation. We also have to factor in the rights of local people to determine policies concerning sustainable utilisation and to be involved in the ongoing decision-making processes related to hunting quotas of species and genetic traits.
What scientists say about their research is especially important – regardless of what you or I feel about their message. And yet, even with guidance from researchers, finding scientific reports proving or disproving the claimed benefits of hunting can be difficult and time-consuming.
Unfortunately, conducting helpful discussions with hunting industry members has usually proved impossible for us. They operate under a veil of secrecy and usually ignore our requests for information or even attack us for asking probing questions. That said, we work behind the scenes with some trophy hunters who provide information on request. You know who you are – thank you. Again, though, when we request information from hunting industry members about a specific animal hunted and the compensation that went to local communities, that cooperation is usually replaced by stony silence, at best.
My method to determine hunting merits:
While I cannot fathom why some people like to kill animals and, in some cases, collect trophies and make-believe that this is a heroic endeavour, I do recognise that sometimes there are benefits from hunting to biodiversity and local people. So, I have developed my system for determining whether a specific hunting scenario or case contributes to those benefits. I have four conditions that guide me in this process (all of which have to be met):
The hunt must be conducted legally, ethically, and humanely. The industry has norms and standards in these areas, and all parties involved need to do more to adhere to these. Stakeholders need to hold each other accountable for transgressions.
The hunting of free-roaming wildlife has to be proven sustainable for the species and genetic traits extracted as a result of the hunt. The onus is on any extraction industry to prove their offtakes are sustainable. This requires evidence from relevant, detailed, science-based population studies going back enough years to provide a usable data set. My rule of thumb is that if an activity further reduces the population of a free-roaming species or genetic trait already in decline, then that activity is, by definition, not sustainable.
Hunting free-roaming wildlife must generate significant benefits for local people based on verifiable evidence. The specifics will vary based on the circumstances, but the obligations of fair compensation for the loss of that animal, provision of secure long-term employment and skills upliftment remain a firm requirement in my books.
Total transparency about the above three points. Without transparency, you encourage speculation, mistrust and misinformation.
Examples of how I apply my four conditions:
Trophy hunting of free-roaming large-tusked elephants gets a solid NO from me.
The trophy hunting industry has not produced verified research proving their large-tusked elephant offtake is sustainable.
Last year, six tuskers that we know of were trophy hunted in Tanzania alone. All six roamed the northern Tanzania and southern Kenya region. Five were killed in the Enduimet area and one in the Maswa area. This is clearly not sustainable when you consider that an estimated 86+ tuskers are left in Africa.
In the above cases, at least one of the six tuskers killed (celebrated tourism icon Gilgil) was 35 years old – not yet into his prime breeding years (40-55 years) – making nonsense of claims that only bulls past their breeding years are killed.
Most of the carcasses were burnt after these hunts, and requests for information about the elephants, how they were tracked and hunted and about local community benefits were ignored.
Trophy hunting of free-roaming male lions also gets a solid NO from me because the trophy hunting industry has not produced verified research proving their lion offtake is sustainable, while wild lion populations plummet. Also, instances of the industry and relevant authorities refusing to explain evidence pointing to irregularities are too numerous.
An associated topic
Should we boycott the tourism industry in countries/parks where hunting is practised? NO – because that will damage the best alternative to hunting – and inevitably strengthen the hunting industry. I understand the impulse, but the logic and likely impact make no sense if you seek a sustainable future for our wild places. The hunting industry is deeply embedded in many African countries; the only way to end its reign is for the tourism industry to outcompete it.
My approach to hunting is based on my belief in science and open debate based on facts, and I continually evolve my considered opinion as research reveals new evidence.
Dewald Tromp’s striking photo of a gorilla’s beckoning gesture, directed at the viewer, invited a rare glimpse into the world of these sentient beings. By capturing a significant moment of intimacy between two great apes, Dewald also captured the attention of Africa Geographic’s judges for Photographer of the Year. Keeping his composure in the midst of an unnerving moment, Dewald managed to take this winning image, and was ultimately awarded the coveted title of Photographer of the Year 2024.
Dewald hoped to raise awareness on the plight of gorillas through the attention this photo received. “Conservation of the critically endangered mountain gorillas in Rwanda is one of the rare success stories in Africa and serves as a beacon of hope for the rest of the continent. More than 1,000 individuals remain in the rainforests bordering Rwanda, Uganda and the DRC,” says Dewald.
Dewald is a passionate wildlife photographer. While he works in the medical field, he has been photographing nature for the past 20 years. Dewald and his wife have travelled extensively around the globe to photograph rare and exciting wildlife. Through his images, he wants to influence people to start thinking about conservation and protecting the last remaining wild places on Earth.
In celebration of Dewald’s work, we share some of his favourite photographers, captured during his travels through Africa. Below, be enthralled by Dewald’s unique pursuit of capturing wildlife on camera.
Walking hippos. Hippos wallow in crystal-clear waters during the annual flooding of the Okavango Delta. Botswana. Nikon D850, 70-200mm lens at 200mm, ISO 6400, f/5.6, 1/3200secPelican flight. A pelican hovers next to the boat, looking for its next meal. Walvis Bay, Namibia. Nikon D850, 14-24mm lens at 14mm, ISO 100, f/13, 1/250sec with flashPure bliss. With the summer temperatures soaring, cooling off is essential. But in the croc-infested waters of the Chobe River, danger always lurks. Staying close to Mom solves that problem. Botswana. Nikon Z8, 400mm lens, ISO 1800, f/8.0, 1/1000secTake-away. Just weeks after the first summer rains, the barren veld of Mashatu Game Reserve is transformed into a lush landscape by devil’s thorn flowers. A season of abundance awaits the predators. Botswana. Nikon Z8, 400mm lens at 560mm, ISO 640, f/5.6, 1/1250secAskari. The magnificent Craig is joined by his Askaris. As they accompany him on his journey, they learn all the skills he has acquired over his lifetime. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. Nikon Z9, 24-70mm lens at 70mm, ISO 200, f/11, 1/200 secDeadvlei nightscape. The skeletal remains of the long-dead camelthorn trees in Deadvlei are a stark reminder of a bygone era. Namibia. Nikon D850, 14-24mm lens at 14mm, ISO 640, f/2.8, 30.0secCheetah cubs. Two subadult cheetah cubs inspect a noise in a tree. Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana. Sony Alpha 7R, 16-35G lens, ISO 100, 30mm, f/5.6, 1/1250secGreeting a friend – Photographer of the Year 2024 winning photo. “While I was trekking for mountain gorillas in Volcanoes National Park, the dominant silverback casually flopped down directly in front of me, observing his reflection in the lens of my camera. Surrounded by thick vegetation, I had nowhere else to go. I kept a submissive posture with my eyes downcast. He stretched out his hand to touch his reflection in the lens, and for the briefest moment, I imagined him extending his hand to greet me as an old friend. A moment in time that will stay with me for the rest of my life.” Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda. Nikon Z9, 14-24mm lens at 14mm, ISO 1250, f/8.0, 1/320secChasing shadows. I’ve always dreamed of photographing Gemsbok on their own stage, the vast sand dunes of the Namib Desert. The weather wasn’t great with severe cross winds that made the helicopter flight that much more difficult. Namibia. Nikon D850, 70-200mm lens, ISO 500, f/5.6, 1/3200secBalancing act. Small and bullet-fast, a malachite kingfisher balances on the leaf of a water lily. Chobe National Park, Botswana. Nikon Z8, 800mm lens, ISO 320, f/6.3, 1/2000secBlack rhino reflection. A single black rhino lifts its head to smell the air as lions roar in the distance. Her reflection in the water is hazy and seems to reflect the uncertain future of her species. Namibia. Nikon D850, 400mm lens, ISO 1000, f/2,8, 1/1000sec, off-camera flashFollow the leader. These wild dog pups entertained us for hours by playing a game of tag with a lechwe hoof. Okavango Delta, Botswana. Nikon Z8, 400mm lens, ISO 2200, f/8.0, 1/2000secPredator and prey. An African bullfrog ignores the banquet of moths and insects around – today, the hormonal appetite for procreation is the only thing on its mind. Zimanga Private Game Reserve, South Africa. Nikon D4, 70-200mm lens at 140mm, ISO 2500, f/2.8, 1/50secMass action. The sodium compounds in the water and searing temperatures provide perfect conditions for the proliferation of algae. Lesser flamingos thrive in these waters due to the abundance of food. Lake Turkana, Kenya. Nikon D850, 70-200mm lens at 140mm, ISO 900, f/5.6, 1/3200secAmboseli icon. Once plentiful in Africa, less than 100 of these great tuskers walk the earth. At 50 years of age, Craig is in the twilight of his life, but still magnificent. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. Nikon Z9, 14-24mm lens at 20mm, ISO 100, f/11, 1/320secReaching for mom. At barely 4 weeks old with eyes not yet fully open, the younger and smaller of a litter of two desperately tries to get her mother’s attention. Okavango Delta, Botswana. Nikon Z8, 400mm lens, ISO 2000, f/5.6, 1/2000sec
About photographer Dewald Tromp
Originally from Windhoek, Namibia, Dewald grew up in the small rural town of Belfast, Mpumalanga. As a child, all his family holidays were spent camping or hiking in the Kruger National Park. This is where his love for nature was cultivated. Although he works in the medical field, wildlife photography has been his passion for the last 20 years. Dewald and his wife have travelled extensively around the globe to photograph rare and exciting wildlife. Through his images, he wants to influence people to start thinking about conservation and protecting the last remaining wild places on Earth.
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How are Kruger’s new rhinos doing?
Move over Freddie Mercury; there is a hairier star hailing from the islands of Africa set to redefine our appreciation of music. It turns out that the indri lemurs of Madagascar are rhythmically gifted. With songs echoing the stomp-stomp-clap of We Will Rock You, these singing lemurs are our (not-so) distant musical cousins. Researchers who studied 15 years of melodic musings from the lemurs have found their tunes share rhythmic patterns – known as isochrony – with human music. From steady 1:1 beats to 1:2 rhythms, their melodies hint at the evolutionary roots of music itself.
Indris sing for survival: morning roll calls, family reunions, predator alarm calls and turf wars. The lemurs are the only primates besides us known to produce these organised rhythms, linking their tunes to the development of early primate communication. With fewer than 10,000 indris left, preserving their harmony isn’t just conservation; it’s safeguarding a piece of our shared musical past.
This week, we’re checking in on the 120 rhinos rewilded to Greater Kruger as a part of African Parks’ Rhino Rewild initiative. We also share Villiers Steyn’s trip report on the epic AG photographic safari he led to Mana Pools. Don’t miss these stories below.
Taryn van Jaarsveld – Editor, Africa Geographic
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Discover Madagascar’s pristine and raw beauty. Experience powdery white beaches, palm trees, magical forests, lemurs and impossibly blue waters on this tropical-island escape. You’ll visit the Masoala rainforests and Blue Lagoon in Ambodilaitry Masoala Marine Reserve, and spend days kayaking on the lagoon, walking its shores and snorkelling its coves.
Visit the outstanding Tuli Block in southeastern Botswana, where ancient baobabs, roaming elephant herds, and majestic big cats create unforgettable safari experiences. Explore Mashatu Game Reserve with our flexible 6–8-day packages tailored to your preferences. Choose from four lodges to match your style and budget for a truly memorable adventure!
Rosetta and Andrew gave their AG safari a 5-star review:
“Fabulous! My husband and I celebrated our 35th wedding anniversary on a 2-week safari in South Africa, Zimbabwe, and Botswana. Our AG travel expert, Chantal, created an outstanding itinerary to meet our needs. Our experience surpassed all our expectations in terms of our lodgings, animal viewing, and making our anniversary special for us. Thank you for making my lifetime dream vacation come to fruition!”
WATCH: Leopards spend a lot of time up trees. What’s less common is seeing lions and cheetahs up in the branches. But in the Okavango Delta, all three of these big cats are taking advantage of an aerial position. Here are a few theories on why these big cats are climbing trees. (06:50) Click here to watch
120 rhinos rewilded into Greater Kruger as part of the African Parks Rhino Rewild initiative are, on the whole, doing well. The success of the initial stages of the rewilding project reveals a story of adaptation and resilience. The project has demonstrated many successes and a few challenges as these rhinos settle into their new homes. We checked in with Sharon Haussmann, CEO of the Greater Kruger Environmental Protection Foundation, to see how the rewilded rhinos are doing.
In the winter months of 2024, 120 southern white rhinos, part of the world’s largest privately farmed rhino herd, took their first steps into the wild bushveld of Greater Kruger, South Africa – under the care of the member reserves of the Greater Kruger Environmental Protection Foundation (GKEPF). This was no ordinary wildlife introduction. It was the beginning of a bold strategy by African Parks to rewild 2,000 rhinos – a herd representing 12% of the global population of southern white rhinos.
All introduced rhinos have been closely monitored by GKEPF, allowing us a detailed view of their progress.
The initial weeks in the wild were a period of intense adaptation for the rhinos, according to GKEPF’s Sharon Haussmann. Released from the boma into the vast and unfenced reserves, they needed to adjust to fluctuating resources. Unlike their wild counterparts, these rhinos were accustomed to supplemental feed and controlled conditions. In the bushveld, they must forage for seasonally available grasses. The pachyderms must also contend with predators and wild territorial rhino bulls – challenges they had not been exposed to on the farm.
The risks of rewilding farmed rhinos are significant. Yet, an initial analysis of their progress attests that the planning from African Parks and GKEPF has mitigated many of these risks.
Rewilded rhinos at a waterhole
Initial integration and movement
After their release from temporary holding bomas in Greater Kruger (read more about this release here), the rhinos behaved as was expected by the experts. They cautiously explored their new surroundings and gradually dispersed to new areas, according to Haussmann. Tracking data from the rhinos’ movements revealed remarkable dispersal patterns, particularly among bulls aged 6 to 10 years, one of which covered an impressive 262km within the first three weeks.
GKEPF vet Günter Nowak and GKEPF CEO Sharon Haussmann inspect the ear of a tranquillised rhino before attaching a tracking device
While most cows established home ranges near their release sites, some bulls ventured into the Kruger National Park – highlighting the dynamic nature of their movement. A total of 14 rhinos – 13 bulls and a young cow – have been recorded moving from Greater Kruger into the national park. It is suspected that a 15th rhino, the mother of the young cow, has also moved with them (though it cannot be confirmed as her tracker malfunctioned shortly after release).
Their integration with existing rhino populations in Greater Kruger has mainly been positive. Staff from GKEPF member reserves report seeing many introduced animals resting and grazing with local rhinos, which shows they are adapting socially. However, there have been various territorial disputes with local bulls. This underscores the complexity of integrating animals into an established ecosystem.
One rhino made a particularly noteworthy journey. The rhino cow, born in Thornybush Private Game Reserve and moved to the rhino farm, was released in Timbavati Private Nature Reserve as part of the rewilding project. Astonishingly, this rhino journeyed back to her original birthplace, Thornybush, and has now established herself there with her calf.
Poor veld conditions in later months slightly affected the body condition of many of the animals, but ongoing rains are improving conditions
Health and adaptation
The rhinos faced many challenges soon after being released, including mild diarrhoea and declines in body condition as their gut biomes adjusted to the new environment – as was expected. But, over time, their health improved, according to Haussmann. However, the dry season and poor veld conditions in later months slightly affected the body condition of the rhinos, with introduced animals averaging a Body Condition Score (BCS) of 2.5/5, compared to 3/5 for the local population. But the arrival of rains in late October improved conditions.
A rewilded rhino in Greater Kruger. Rains have started improving veld conditions
The challenges to rewilded rhinos
Haussmann says a few challenges emerged during the rhinos’ transition. Tracking devices, vital for monitoring movements, have gradually declined functionality, with only about 30% currently active. A few tracking devices were also removed when it was found that they were causing irritation and inflammation for some rhinos.
“Long-term successful tracking devices have been, and remain a challenge, and GKEPF is grateful for the effort and further commitment of the device developers to improve on this. The accuracy and real-time information received from the devices when functional is unparalleled. Overall, the tracking devices ensured accurate monitoring in the critical period post-release and during the initial dispersal. Sufficient data was received to indicate where rhinos settled in new home ranges.”
Predation is a risk for the rhinos
Predation has also proven to be a risk. One older rhino, a 35-year-old cow, was attacked by lions, and while her wounds were treated, she later died from the injuries. Another rhino attacked by lions was treated and is recovering. However, many rhinos have been seen successfully defending themselves against lions.
Territorial bulls have also challenged some of the rewilded rhinos, with two eventually succumbing to their injuries. Other rhinos have also been treated after clashing with territorial bulls.
Deaths of rhinos
In total, five of the 120 rewilded rhinos have died, the majority due to natural causes.
“While any rhino mortality is sad and undesired, it would be naïve and unrealistic to think an introduction of this scale would be without some mortalities,” says Hausmann.
Aside from the two rhinos sustaining injuries during fighting and the cow attacked by lions, one rhino died due to unknown causes – the necropsy performed on the rhino was inconclusive.
“We were, and still are, very well aware of the risk factors involved with this project. Every death is investigated, scrutinised and, of course, recorded,” says Haussmann. “The lessons learnt are invaluable, especially taken the scale of this rewilding project. At this stage the losses are tolerable and within an acceptable frame to not affect the overall success of the rewilding project.”
Lastly, one of the rewilded rhinos was sadly a victim of poachers.
“The rhino poaching threat in the Greater Kruger, as in South Africa, remains the biggest threat to the rhino population, both in existing and introduced rhinos,” says Hausmann. “But the private reserves on the western boundary of Kruger National Park have shown incredible resilience in countering the threat, with three rhinos lost to poaching in 2024. The threat to rhinos in the vast open system remains a challenge and is actively countered through a cohesive approach and collective efforts between the private and public sectors. We are optimistic that a safe region for all rhinos will be established.”
Despite these setbacks, interventions from GKEPF, such as relocating an injured rhino to a rehabilitation centre, have prevented more potential losses. The rhino in question – a young cow separated from her mother – was relocated to a rehabilitation centre after hyenas and a territorial rhino bull attacked her. Due to a poor prognosis, she was relocated to recover, and will be reintroduced at a later stage. At the rehabilitation centre, she has been grouped with a crash of rhinos that will all be moved to Greater Kruger as a bonded unit.
Interventions from GKEPF are vital in ensuring the successful integration of the rhinos
The wins
The birth of two rhino calves to rewilded rhinos was cause for much celebration for GKEPF – demonstrating the rhinos’ ability to thrive in the wild.
There have been many other successes in the rhinos’ integration with existing populations, including many new rhino crashes forming, sightings of the rewilded pachyderms mingling with local populations and rhino cows mating with local bulls.
Rhinos have been seen forming new crashes
Most introduced animals have settled into their ranges and adapted well. Aerial monitoring has allowed teams to respond quickly to emerging issues, such as the wounds caused by predators and territorial bulls.
Improving veld conditions will likely bolster the rhinos’ overall health as the rainy season continues.
In short
The successful rewilding of rhinos into Greater Kruger is a testament to the resilience of wildlife. And with conservationists constantly monitoring and assisting these animals, more successes will surely arise.
While challenges remain, the progress made so far highlights the potential of large-scale translocations to contribute to species conservation. The introduced rhinos are well on track to becoming an enduring part of the Greater Kruger ecosystem, ensuring the preservation of this iconic species for generations to come.
Further reading
African Parks purchased the world’s largest captive rhino breeding operation, to rescue and rewild the rhino to safe protected areas. Read more about the historic move here
Is Rhino Rewild the most critical wildlife conservation undertaking of our time? Simon Espley attended the pioneer stage of a visionary project to translocate 2,000 farmed rhinos into the wild. Here’s how it went down
There is not much quite like the stillness of Mana Pools at dawn, where the Zambezi River’s golden hues blur the line between dream and reality. Lions prowl the floodplains, elephants loom in the blue light of towering trees, and wild dogs play in hidden corners, waiting to be discovered by travellers. It is no wonder that Mana Pools served as the ideal destination for an unforgettable photographic safari. And that’s exactly what Villiers Steyn delivered when he took a group of avid photographers to this magical part of Zimbabwe, for a journey filled with heart-stopping encounters. From wild dogs in mid-hunt to leopards lounging within arm’s reach, Mana Pools put on a show in its most magical way.
After a successful Africa Geographic photo safari to Chitake Springs the previous year, I decided to head back to Mana Pools in 2024 to explore a couple of new areas. Essentially, there are two main game viewing areas in Mana Pools – the floodplain along the Zambezi River, which most people are familiar with, and the lesser-known thickets inland just below the escarpment. And this is where our safari started.
The characteristic golden Mana Pools light
Instead of returning to Chitake Springs, our photographic safari headed to Kavinga Safari Camp, less than 10 kilometres away from the springs. While I provided photographic guidance, we were again in the capable hands of guide extraordinaire Carl Nicholson, who knows this area like the back of his hand.
Want to go on a safari like this? Join Africa Geographic along with Villiers Steyn and Carl Nicholson for a photographic safari to Mana Pools. Find more details on this safari here. Enquire soon as spaces are limited.
Kavinga’s comfortable stilted safari tents are perched on a ridge overlooking a highly productive waterhole that attracts hundreds of elephants and other wildlife throughout the day. What made this stay extra special was the sunken hide right on the edge of the waterhole, allowing us to capture unique ground-level photos of everything that came down to quench thirst. There’s also a second ground-level hide overlooking a bird pond in the middle of the camp, and this one provided the most action.
“Come quick! The lions are lying on the lawn. I think you should get underground!” came the call from Kavinga guide, Dylan Browne, who has a knack for spotting anything with sharp teeth approaching the camp.
Since Kavinga is unfenced, many of the big cats in the area seem to prefer drinking the fresh water in the pond rather than the waterhole where elephants bathe every day below the tents. During our four nights here, we were lucky enough to photograph a couple of lionesses and two different leopards drinking no more than three metres away from us! The show’s star, a leopard called Poppy, was so relaxed that she hardly looked up when an elephant bull joined her for a drink early one evening.
A leopard drinks at the hide waterhole
Out on the game drive, Kavinga was equally productive. We found the local lion pride resting and playing in the white sandy riverbeds in front of camp on nearly every drive and had an excellent opportunity to photograph buffalo crossing a riverbed below a stand of ancient baobab trees. To my delight, everyone in the group was a keen bird-watcher. We all appreciated our sightings of western banded snake eagles, crowned hornbills, white-browed coucals and, most notably, Livingstone’s flycatchers.
It was hard to say goodbye to Kavinga, but with plenty of excitement, we transferred down to the floodplain where we stayed for another four nights. Our base here was Vundu Camp, tucked away in the dense riparian forest along the Zambezi River. A mere 15 minutes into our first afternoon game drive, Carl tracked down a pack of 12 African wild dogs resting in a clearing. We carefully approached them on foot and sat down nearby while waiting for them to become active.
The wild dogs embark on an impala hunt
Watching and photographing their ritualistic greeting behaviour on foot and up close was a real privilege. Soon after greeting one another, they became very active, and we struggled to keep up with them for a while. Fortunately, three dawdling pups allowed us to keep the pack in our sights, and eventually, they all slowed down to stalk a small herd of impala.
“Say goodbye to them now because soon they’ll be all over the place,” I warned my guests as the dogs lined up beside each other, all dropping their heads. And then all hell broke loose!
Photographing wild dogs in action
The pack of twelve split up in different directions, all seemingly going after various impalas. Fortunately for us, a couple of them had turned around and were now chasing impalas straight back towards us, flying like super-dogs through the air as they gained on the tiring antelopes. We lost sight of them momentarily but quickly tracked one of the adults down again. It had successfully brought down one of the impalas and was instantly joined by the pups that began devouring the carcass in the fading light. It’s an experience we’ll all treasure for the rest of our lives.
Bounding off on the hunt
Over the following three days, we shifted our attention to elephants. We aimed to photograph them in either golden light or the iconic blue light that Mana Pools is known for, generated by enormous trees growing all over the floodplain. And boy, were we successful! Not only did we find Boswell, Mana’s most famous elephant, posing on his hind legs for us, but we had plenty of excellent opportunities to photograph bulls at sunrise and sunset, making for some beautiful photographs, not to mention more unforgettable experiences. Throughout our safari, Carl’s expertise and calm nature ensured that we were always in the best possible position.
Boswell the elephant reaches for the trees
Our bird list grew to over a hundred as we added specials like wood owl, pennant-winged nightjar, Lilian’s lovebird and African skimmer, and we spent hours photographing waterbirds at the waning Long Pool – the largest of Mana Pools’ four big bodies of water.
The cherry on top of our eight nights in Mana Pools was a lioness posing on the bank of the Zambezi in the last bit of orange light reflecting off the river at Vundu Point – the perfect way to end the ideal safari.
Posing in the last light of the dayA young male relaxes on the riverbedGathering under a mashatu treeA great egret in flightA red-billed oxpecker helps clean up a buffaloA baobab sunsetMana Pools is known for its dramatic landscapesGreeting in the riverbedA display of power while reaching for the leavesHeading down to drink before evening sets inA wild dog on the lookoutAll creatures great and small – a confusion of helmeted guineafowls huddle at the water’s edge, elephants towering in the backgroundCapturing elephants reaching in the golden light
Join Villiers on a photographic safari
Villiers Steyn and Carl Nicholson will lead an Africa Geographic photographic safari to Mana Pools from 9–17 August 2025. You’ll immerse yourself in the best Mana Pools offers – from floodplains overlooking the mighty Zambezi River to the cliffs overlooking the dry Rukomechi Riverbed – and enjoy excellent photographic opportunities and guidance. Find more details here.
Traveller Irene Amiet visited Zimbabwe’s famed Mana Pools National Park to photograph the other-worldly wilderness of this Zambezi kingdom. Check out her trip report here.
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Best leopard spots + crane crisis + evolved crocs
I am so looking forward to the year ahead. teamAG will strive for that edge that defines us as a safari company with a difference. A few stories already in the pipeline will add hugely to your understanding of ground-level conservation realities in Africa. Some may upset you, but mostly, you will learn stuff and be inspired.
It’s also the year in which Ukuri, our venture with African Parks, will blossom like a September knobthorn. More about that in a short while.
A critical issue for us is the feedback loop – we love receiving responses to this newsletter and when you engage with us and others on our social media posts. This interaction allows us to ‘read the room’ and adjust our tone and editorial mix.
‘Reading the room’ reminds me of a game drive I once endured, where our safari guide certainly did not do so. We were all gathered in his vehicle, happily imbued in that expectant vibe one gets at the beginning of a game drive. Our guide strolled up and proceeded to load his 458 rifle – lots of clacking and bicep flexing in that testosterone-infused display. Of course, this was not my first rodeo, and I sat back to watch my fellow guests for their reaction. His performance was met with looks of surprise and distaste combined with narrowed eyelids. Only then did he greet us. Shortly after, the sense of discomfort for all except our guide increased when his safety brief was all about how, a few years back, he had to shoot a big elephant that was ‘misbehaving’. I am happy to advise that this tone-deaf behaviour is exceptionally rare among safari guides, who must rank as some of the most sentient and caring humans on the planet.
Safari njema to our clients out there right now enjoying the intoxicating summer rainfall bushveld experience.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Eager to avoid the noise of politics, social media, corruption and drama this new year? Take a cue from a group of dwarf crocodiles in Gabon, who swam away from it all – into a bat-guano-filled cave, no less – and started evolving. These introverted reptiles traded the chaos of the rainforest for a bat buffet in serene subterranean darkness and solitude. Now, they’re fitter, flashier (orange-tinted, thanks to guano baths), and possibly morphing into a whole new species.
Scientists first studied these crocodiles deep in Gabon’s Abanda cave system in 2010 and have been checking in since. They’ve found the cave crocs have a unique diet of bats and crickets and are in much better condition than their forest cousins. And, new genetic analysis of the crocodiles suggests the orange cave crocodiles are mutating. The reptiles may have even been down in the caves for thousands of years. By dodging the predator-packed forests, these crocs prove that shutting out the world’s nonsense is the key to thriving. So next time a comment thread or mouthy politician rattles your nerves, channel your inner cave croc: retreat, refocus, and let the negativity roll off like bat guano off a crocodile’s back. Escape the drama; evolve in peace.
This week, don’t miss our roundup of the best spots to see leopards in Africa. And read about an important population of black crowned cranes in Chad suffering under the impacts of Boko Haram and fisherman.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Gorilla trekking in Bwindi, Uganda – 6 days – from US$3,680pps
Gorilla trekking is one of the most exhilarating safari experiences out there. There can be no better place to see the mountain gorillas than Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. This safari allows you to seek out the tree-climbing lions of Queen Elizabeth National Park, explore Entebbe Botanical Gardens and get to know Batwa culture.
Be swept off your feet with wall-to-wall wildlife action on this iconic Southern African safari.
You’ll visit Greater Kruger, Cape Town and the Winelands in South Africa; Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park in Botswana; and Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. This is a once-in-a-lifetime adventure for your bucket list.
Another pangolin saved – did you help make it happen?
The latest patient helped by Provet Wildlife Services is a female ground pangolin with an extraordinary tale of survival. Not only was the pangolin (her injuries pictured below) miraculously rescued from the illegal wildlife trade, but vets found she had previously survived being in a wire snare set by poachers. The pangolin’s injury healed with the snare still left inside – demonstrating it had been wrapped around her for some time. Despite the trauma and wounds she sustained, she still had a full stomach of ants and was in better shape than many pangolins rescued under similar circumstances.
Thanks to Provet and Umoya Khulula, the snare was carefully removed and her wounds treated. She is now in the rehabilitation phase of her journey. With your generous support, we hope to see her released back into the wild in no time. The cost of rescuing a pangolin and hospitalising it for one week is about US$800 (ZAR15,000). Be a hero and help with this process by donating and lending your support to the hard-working teams who are dedicated to saving Africa’s pangolins. Note: all pangolins are housed at offsite locations for security reasons
WATCH: What is the impact of humans on elephant genetics? From the impact of hunting to wars, human activity is reshaping elephant evolution. Here’s how the genetics of Gorongosa’s elephants are changing. (11:57) Click here to watch
There are many reasons why leopards are at the top of African safari request lists. Breathtakingly beautiful, charismatic, powerful, elusive, mysterious, and endlessly unpredictable – no one adjective can fully capture the wild essence of these impressive cats. Whether draped lazily across a tree bough or concealing themselves for a slow stalk and decisive pounce, no one leopard sighting is ever the same.
We’ve compiled a list of our favourite leopard-viewing destinations for (almost) guaranteed sightings.
A juvenile leopard plays around and sneaks up on her mother in Northern Tuli Game Reserve, Botswana
1. The Greater Kruger, South Africa
This corner of South Africa is famous for its spectacular leopard encounters, especially in the southern regions of the Greater Kruger, where leopard densities are at their highest. Private reserves like Sabi Sand Nature Reserve have a long history of leopard habituation to vehicles, and the leopards here are probably the most relaxed on the continent. The guides and trackers in these areas are intimately familiar with the territories and movements of their spotted comrades and will provide a background (and even lineage) of the individuals seen.
Vying with the Greater Kruger for the highest leopard densities on the continent, South Luangwa National Park is a haven for these elegant cats. The verdant floodplains, oxbow lakes, and riverine forests along the Luangwa River – the region’s lifeblood – are perfect pardine territory. Guests are regularly treated to multiple leopard sightings in a day.
The wetlands, grasslands, and thickets of the Okavango Delta teem with wildlife and predators abound in this rich wilderness. While animal viewing is typically at its best during the dry season, wild dog and leopard sightings are the norm year-round.
See leopards year-round in Moremi; leopard densities are high in Greater Kruger; guests enjoy regular sightings of the cats in South Luangwa
4. Samburu National Park, Kenya
Unofficially designated as the leopard capital of Kenya, arid and dramatic Samburu’s rocky outcrops and striking riverine trees provide perfect vantage points where leopards can strike the typical photographic pose. And with Samburu being somewhat off the beaten African safari track, chances are you won’t have to share your sighting with a crowd of eager tourists.
5. The Mara-Serengeti Ecosystem, Kenya and Tanzania
Leopard densities in the Mara-Serengeti Ecosystem are high, and, like our first four destinations, a sighting of at least one individual is all but guaranteed. However, what sets this region apart is the magnificent scenery, which has the potential to change the entire character of a sighting. Instead of lurking in the thickets, the leopards of Mara-Serengeti are often obliged to move in the open or through tall grassland. The sight of a leopard dwarfed by the sheer scale of the expansive Maasai Mara or renowned Serengeti is not easily forgotten. Throw in typical leopard unpredictability and the chaos of the Great Migration, and the scene is set for genuinely extraordinary and action-packed encounters.
A leopard carries her cub in Maasai Mara National Reserve
6. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa & Botswana
With their effortless beauty, leopards are suited to almost any setting but are perhaps most breath-taking against the ochre and gold palette of the Kalahari Desert. Naturally, the leopard population here occurs at lower densities, and sightings are not necessarily a given. However, the sparse vegetation works to the advantage of eagle-eyed visitors.
7. Laikipia County, Kenya
Laikipia County is one for the leopard connoisseur – those fortunate enough to have travelled and filled many a memory card with pictures of leopards from around the continent. The county, and Loisaba Conservancy, in particular, has recently found social media acclaim with the revelation that it is home to unusual black leopards. These mysterious cats have a rare genetic mutation that results in melanism and are believed to be more common in forested areas where their atypical colouring works to hide them in the shadows. Of course, they are elusive, and there are no guarantees – but isn’t anticipation half the fun of an African safari?
Maasai Mara leopards bring the action; if you’re lucky, you may spot a black leopard in Laikipia; the dramatic Kgalagadi landscapes make for excellent sightings of leopards; have a leopard sighting all to yourself in Samburu.
8. Tuli Block, Botswana
The Tuli Block, in southeastern Botswana, is a rugged wilderness known for ancient baobabs, red rock outcrops, and the Limpopo River. At its heart lies the Northern Tuli Game Reserve, famed for frequent leopard sightings which rival those in South Africa’s Sabi Sands.
Leopards are often spotted lounging in towering tree branches, especially during early morning game drives led by expert guides. Beyond leopard spotting, the silence of Tuli is profound, interrupted only by the whispers of the wind, elephant rumbles, or distant lion roars – a true immersion into Africa’s wild heart.
Emerging stealthily from the depths of a towering fig tree on a riverbank in Northern Tuli Game Reserve, a leopard surveys the baboons across the water. Soon, she’ll make her move.
Special mention: Nyika National Park, Malawi
Malawi’s concerted conservation efforts have borne exceptional biodiversity and resulted in a nascent tourism industry offering singular safari experiences. Nyika National Park extends across the vast Nyika Plateau, an enormous granitic dome over 2000 metres above sea level. The rolling hills are home to the highest density of leopards in Malawi, and while the secretive cats are still somewhat shy, sightings are becoming increasingly common, particularly at night. The positive feedback loop of growing numbers of tourists supplementing conservation funding has gone a long way to securing the future of one of Africa’s most unique wildernesses.
The black crowned crane, a charismatic bird species vulnerable to extinction from trapping and habitat loss, faces a new threat at one of its key habitats in the Sahel. Chad’s Lake Fitri, just south of the Sahara, is a massive wetland that is a magnet for African waterbirds and migratory birds from Europe. However, large numbers of fishermen who have fled the much bigger Lake Chad to the west to escape Boko Haram insurgents have pushed up the number of waterbirds – most notably cranes – caught accidentally as bycatch in Lake Fitri.
Lake Fitri is a vast wetland covering around 800 square kilometres in central Chad. The Ramsar Convention lists it as a wetland of international importance because it is a significant stopover site for migratory and resident waterbirds in Central Africa’s arid Sahel region.
Lake Fitri in Chad
In the last decade or so the presence of Boko Haram insurgents around the much larger Lake Chad, more than 300 kilometres to the west, has spurred the migration of thousands of fishermen from there to Lake Fitri. Numbers of fishermen at Lake Fitri now range between 1,000 and 6,000, depending on the season, compared to numbers that only peaked at around 700 in 2002. This near-tenfold increase has led to a surge in the number of waterbirds caught – mostly accidentally – as bycatch.
Among the birds most affected are black crowned cranes (Balearica pavonina), a species already considered vulnerable to extinction due to habitat loss and the trapping of wild birds for the pet trade.
“Livelihood harvest [of black-crowned cranes], even if it is by-catch, may not be sustainable,” says Pierre Defos du Rau, a wildlife scientist with the French Biodiversity Agency (OFB) and lead author of a new study into the impact of human migration on Fitri’s waterbirds.
“That is not an issue for Fitri only, but that’s probably an issue for the whole of the Sahel.”
With their striking black and white plumage and pincushion-like golden crown feathers, these iconic African waterbirds, which resemble southern Africa’s grey crowned cranes, inhabit wetlands and grasslands across West, Central and East Africa.
Experts say there could be as few as 33,000 mature black crowned cranes left across this range.
To estimate their number at Lake Fitri, Defos du Rau and his team, which included researchers from Chad’s General Directorate for Wildlife and Protected Areas, flew aerial surveys above the lake and its surrounding wetlands and forests every year from 2018– 2021.
Two researchers sat in the back of an aircraft piloted by conservationist Jaime Dias. Three rods attached to the wing struts on each side of the plane partitioned the view from each rear window into four parallel bands, covering areas up to 780 metres on each flight path. These bands helped the researchers estimate the number of birds along each transect and calculate the total populations across the lake.
Waterbirds fly over Lake Fitri
The lake’s total number of black crowned cranes was estimated at around 2,000. Worryingly, the team estimated the number of cranes killed accidentally each year by the local community exceeded this figure. More data is needed to verify the findings, however, because the team was only able to do one harvest survey through interviews with fishermen around the lake.
The number of cranes caught by locals and the size of the crane population on Lake Fitri fluctuate.
“Maybe it was a good year [for local community members benefitting from the bycatch of birds, or] maybe it was a bad year, and maybe it was a good year or a bad year for the population size estimates,” says Defos du Rau.
It is also likely, the wildlife scientist says, that other well-protected areas in Chad, such as Zakouma National Park around 300 kilometres to the south, act as a source of cranes, thus maintaining numbers at Lake Fitri.
A fisherman on Lake Fitri
“Chad has been maintaining quite vast areas of source habitats for this species,” he says. “If there were no other well-conserved areas in Chad, probably the Lake Fitri population would be crashing down.”
During their surveys, the research team, which was part of the FAO’s RESSOURCE Project funded by the French Facility for the Environment and the EU, counted not just cranes but several other waterbirds, including spur-winged geese, sacred ibises, pink-backed and great white pelicans, garganey and white-faced ducks and large flocks of ruffs.
Of these, the geese, the ibises and the pelicans were also found to be at a high risk of overexploitation.
The key challenge at present is the massive, sudden immigration of people from conflict areas, especially in large parts of the Sahel, which is currently gripped by political instability, conflict, and violence.
Nevertheless, Lake Fitri’s seasonally flooded woodlands and huge marshes remain “a jewel”, says Defos du Rau. Their well-preserved state is a credit to the communities that live there, and the Chadian authorities who use only light-touch conservation laws to protect the area.
Pelicans on Lake Fitri
Defos du Rau says there can be sustainable use of natural resources. “But we don’t know how [this use] is going to evolve with this sudden immigration [of people] from outside of Lake Fitri.”
Lake Fitri’s resilience lies in its well-preserved ecosystems and the stewardship of local communities and authorities. However, sustainable conservation efforts are essential to protect black crowned cranes and other waterbirds from escalating threats, ensuring this wetland of international importance thrives for generations to come.
Zakouma National Park is a park returned to vibrant wilderness, teeming with life. Zakouma offers a once-in-a-lifetime journey for travellers looking for safari adventure. Read more about Zakouma National Park here
Improved management in Zakouma, Chad, has led to healthier prey populations. Lions now favour larger species & prides are getting bigger. Read more here
The Simpsons understood why people buy ivory, rhino horn, diamonds and pangolin scales:
Lisa: Dad, what if I were to tell you that this rock keeps tigers away?
Homer: Uh-huh, and how does it work?
Lisa: It doesn’t work. It’s just a stupid rock.
Homer: Uh-huh.
Lisa: But I don’t see any tigers around here, do you?
Homer: Lisa, I wanna buy your rock.
CLEVER CONSERVATION
This week, I attended the launch of a local youth football and netball tournament spearheaded by pro footballer James Mayinga, South African National Parks and the Greater Kruger Environmental Protection Foundation (GKEPF). What does this sports tournament have to do with wildlife conservation? Everything.
“The tournament aims to create opportunities for the youth, strengthen social support structures, encourage hope, and provide them with a positive focus in their lives. By doing so, GKEPF strives to build trust and relationships between the protected areas, the local communities, and the organisations dedicated to environmental protection, encouraging a shared sense of belonging and pride in our natural heritage,” says GKEPF
Making the connection for local people living on the Kruger boundary between our country’s most popular sport and what lives on the other side of the fence is not just clever conservation; it’s essential. Hats off to that GKEPF crew, who continue to make huge strides for conservation at ground level.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Bees, bats, butterflies and… wolves? There’s a new pollinator around – and if you can believe it – it’s a predator. The Ethiopian wolf, the world’s rarest wild canid, has been seen (for the first time) licking the nectar from Ethiopian red hot poker flowers. As they savour the sweet nectar, pollen sticks to their whiskers and fur, hitching a ride from flower to flower. And the wolves even take their pups to the flowers to teach them to do the same.
This occurrence, taking place in the Ethiopian Highlands, might be the first record of a large carnivore playing an integral part in pollination. With fewer than 500 Ethiopian wolves left, it’s a bittersweet discovery. The wolves and the red hot pokers both rely on Ethiopia’s high-altitude habitat, now under siege from climate change and human encroachment. Who knew the path to conservation could involve a wolf with a sweet tooth?
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Keen to explore the best that South Africa has to offer? Or treat yourself to an opulent East African safari? Browse our recommendations below and let’s start planning your dream safari.
Dreaming of visiting South Africa? Enjoy this iconic bush & beach safari – the best that South Africa has to offer. Be swept off your feet with wall-to-wall wildlife action – with exceptional Greater Kruger Big 5 game viewing. This safari also includes a full-day road trip taking in the stunning scenery and cultural delights of the Lowveld. And then, head on to vibey, sophisticated Cape Town & the nearby winelands.
Kenya Highlights – Samburu + Laikipia + Maasai Mara & Giraffe Manor – 8 days – from US$11,120pps
This luxury safari offers an unforgettable introduction to the stunning beauty of Kenya’s diverse landscapes and endangered species. Encounter rare Nubian/Rothschild’s giraffes up close, see the Big Five, enjoy endless adventurous activities, find majestic rhinos – Africa’s unicorns – and unwind in luxurious accommodation amidst breathtaking landscapes.
Not sure when to go on safari? No worries, here is our month-by-month guide to help you decide when to have that next ultimate safari experience
WATCH: Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda hosts Africa’s most extensive protected tract of montane forest. Here’s all you need to know about a safari to Nyungwe. (07:42) Click here to watch
Amid Kenya’s breathtaking Tsavo landscape, African painted wolves (African wild dogs) face critical threats. Their population plummets due to disease, snaring, and human-wildlife conflict. A groundbreaking partnership between Tsavo Trust, the Painted Wolf Foundation and the new Painted dog fund now aims to protect these endangered predators with innovative conservation efforts
As the setting sun shifts shadows over Kenya’s vast Tsavo landscape, Joseph Kyalo Kimaile, Tsavo Trust’s Chief Conservation Officer, watches four painted wolves drinking from a drying waterhole – the last remnants of the Triangle Pack. “Last year, this pack was 18 strong, and now only four are left,” says Kimaile. “No one knows what happened to the others, although personally, I suspect rabies. They have always been my favourite animal,” he adds “and I have made it my mission to keep them safe.”
A wild dog mom on high alert
A vast landscape for wild dogs
Tsavo East and Tsavo West national parks are the largest in Kenya. The wider Tsavo Conservation Area is over 40,000 km2 – larger than Belgium – and represents one of the world’s largest wildlife sanctuaries. Lions, rhinos, and ‘super tusker’ elephants call this landscape home.
Tsavo’s wild dog population is rapidly declining
Painted wolves (Lycaon pictus) also reside in Tsavo, although their numbers have fluctuated widely as they repeatedly succumb to snaring, disease, and human-wildlife conflict. Until recently, these endangered predators seemed to be doing well here, but their population is rapidly declining. No one yet knows why, and there are no safeguards in place to protect them.
Late in 2023, the Painted Wolf Foundation (PWF) and Tsavo Trust partnered to bring a painted wolf conservation programme to this iconic area of Kenya and help protect this important population.
Tsavo Trust is already doing significant conservation work protecting the super tusker elephants and endangered rhino. Tusker Balguda was first recorded in April 2014, in Tsavo East National Park
Rising to meet the challenge
How to do this was a big question in such a vast landscape where virtually nothing is known about these wild dogs except from occasional reports of sightings by rangers and guides on the ground. Detailed, relevant and accurate information is in scant supply, yet this could be one of the most significant strongholds for the species in Africa.
Tsavo Trust’s ranger team
“The real opportunity here was to play to the strengths of Tsavo Trust, which has significant resources and extensive operations, as well as a strong collaborative philosophy,” explains Nick Dyer, CEO of the Painted Wolf Foundation. “Having been here for more than a decade, the Trust has built superb partnerships with the Parks’ Authorities and local communities as well as playing a significant role in protecting the iconic elephants and Kenya’s largest rhino populations. On top of this, its 12 ‘Tembo’ anti-poaching teams are already tackling one of the painted wolves’ most destructive threats – snaring.”
Knowledge of wild dogs is key
When entering any new landscape, PWF believes that the priority is to first get a handle on the population. “You cannot protect what you don’t know,” says Will Donald, PWF’s Conservation Training Manager. “You must ID every dog in every pack and map their territories. And this is not a one-off exercise as the dynamics are forever changing, so regular monitoring is also critical.” Before joining PWF, Donald spent four years doing this successfully in the Musekese area of Kafue National Park in Zambia.
ID-ing individual painted wolves from the air will be a bold and innovative approach, which has the best chance of “getting a handle” on the local population.
Adopting this approach in an area the size of Tsavo is a huge challenge. Camera trapping provides limited information and would be prohibitively expensive. A single dedicated team cannot be everywhere all at once, and security concerns in some areas mean that it will not always be safe.
After several months of discussion, PWF and Tsavo Trust developed a strategy with three parts: 1. build expertise; 2. gain knowledge; and 3. tackle suspected threats. Further, to be effective, a decision was made to initially narrow the project area to Tsavo East. This is a more challenging area than the rest of the Tsavo landscape, and it is where the wild dogs seem to be in greater danger. It covers over 14,000 km2, which is still daunting when starting from scratch.
Building capacity for monitoring wild dogs
The first part of the strategy will involve having good, knowledgeable painted wolf experts on the ground, and Tsavo Trust agreed to employ a dedicated painted wolf conservationist who will work under Kimaile. “Such specialists are thin on the ground in Kenya, and we want to avoid removing a person who is already doing valuable work in another area, so a new ecologist will have to be trained,” says Dyer. Will Donald will provide this training at PWF’s planned training facility and spend time on the ground in Tsavo.
“The plan is also to support Kenya’s Wildlife Research and Training Institute (WRTI) in taking a keen interest in the species and support its passionate researcher, Grace Waiguchu, by providing her with the same conservation training,” says Dyer. “In addition, the project will supply her with the critical equipment needed to be effective in the field.” Waiguchu is currently studying for a PhD on painted wolves and would naturally form part of ‘Team Wild Dog’ on the ground.
Painted wolves spotted from the air at a remote den site
Gaining the knowledge to protect wild dogs
With this dedicated team, Tsavo Trust’s broader resources can come into full effect to understand the local population – the second part of the strategy. Its 12 ‘Tembo’ teams (some with attached ecologists) are always in the field and will be trained in conducting spoor identification during their daily patrols. This will be supplemented by air cover from the Trust’s slow and low-flying Super Cub aircraft fleet.
Tsavo Trust’s Chief Wildlife Officer, Joseph Kyalo Kimaile, is one of their foremost pilots and will be responsible for conducting the air surveys
“This will be a fantastic challenge,” says Kimaile, who is also one of Tsavo Trust’s experienced pilots. “ID’ing them from the air will require some good flying skills, a good telephoto lens and a steady hand, but I know it is all possible. We often see the painted wolves from the air, but now there is a purpose when we do so.”
This combined approach will help the team find, ID and monitor the wild dogs and provide opportunities to put GPS collars on the most vulnerable packs in an area where the road network is sparse. The terrain makes driving off-road almost impossible.
PWF believes that, from a conservation perspective, there is no point in gathering information on the movements and composition of the packs unless this is used to protect them. Thus, the monitoring programme aims to identify the threats so that the project’s next phase can introduce appropriate conservation mitigations as soon as practicable.
“We are not about funding studies that play no role in protecting the species,” says Dyer. “We only invest in programmes that can bring a transformational change to an area and hopefully increase a painted wolf population over the long term.”
Identifying threats to painted wolves
The threats to the painted wolves in Tsavo likely come from two angles. There are the ‘natural’ threats from lions and hyenas, which can cause significant mortalities. Not much can be done about these. However, conservationists can make a difference by tackling disease risk, snaring, and illegal killing and protecting the wild dogs’ prey base. “The existence or magnitude of the threats in Tsavo cannot yet be proven, but strong anecdotal evidence suggests they are real,” says Dyer.
Thus, the third part of the strategy is all about working with local communities. The initial focus will be on the Kamungi Community, which Tsavo Trust supports and has built a meaningful and deep relationship with. Initially, Tsavo Trust will conduct a comprehensive attitudinal survey among the villagers to gain a baseline understanding of how the wild dogs impact people’s lives, together with their views and beliefs towards the species.
Tsavo Trust has built considerable trust with the Kamungi community, building boreholes and supporting education
Working with the communities
“It is only when we understand how the painted wolves affect the lives of people in the community that we can consider programmes that mitigate against the impact that these animals have on people’s livelihoods,” says Ruth Kabwe, PWF’s new Programme Manager, who previously spent four years working on painted wolves with the Zambian Carnivore Programme. “It would be hard to persuade sheep farmers in the US or Europe to accept these pernicious predators on their farms, and we have to afford the same respect and understanding to Africa’s communities that live alongside our wildlife.”
One aspect in which Tsavo Trust will immediately make an impact is offering local community members a comprehensive rabies and distemper vaccination for their domestic dogs. Rabies, transmitted by domestic dogs, is strongly suspected of decimating the Triangle Pack and, further north in Kenya, a distemper outbreak in 2017 all but wiped out the entire population of painted wolves in Laikipia – nearly 300 individuals.
This vaccination programme will not only help protect Tsavo’s painted wolves, but it is something that the communities will extensively welcome. Alongside this, an information and education programme will run in parallel to ensure that this support is strongly associated with the species, demonstrating the benefit of having these animals in their backyard.
The road forward
“This three-pronged strategy begins a long-term conservation programme for Tsavo’s painted wolves,” says Dyer. “However, none of this will be cheap and requires a significant financial commitment for many years to make a difference.”
Thankfully, the new Painted Dog Fund, a partnership between PWF and the Wildlife Conservation Network (WCN), has made a grant of US$70,000 to Tsavo Trust to get this programme off the ground. The Painted Dog Fund, managed by PWF, forms part of WCN’s Wildlife Fund portfolio, including the Lion Recovery Fund, the Elephant Crisis Fund, the Rhino Recovery Fund and the Pangolin Crisis Fund. These funds have significantly impacted Africa, having dispersed over US$100 million since the programme started a decade ago.
The collaborative efforts of the Painted Wolf Foundation, the Painted Dog Fund and Tsavo Trust bring hope to Tsavo’s vulnerable painted wolves. With strategic conservation, community support, and dedicated funding, this initiative promises a brighter future for these iconic animals and the ecosystems they call home.
With the sun now set, the four painted dogs leave the waterhole to begin the evening’s hunt. Kimaile watches them vanish into the bush with a renewed sense of hope. “For too long, I have felt powerless to defend these incredible canines, but now I see a light at the end of the tunnel. I’m excited that we finally have a strategy and funding to make a real difference.”
Tsavo Trust monitoring the field
More about the Painted Wolf Foundation and Painted Dog Fund
The Wildlife Conservation Network and the Painted Wolf have partnered to create the Painted Dog Fund, the only fund in existence wholly focused on the conservation of this species, to double the number of Africa’s painted dogs by 2055.
“The Painted Dog Fund shares identical goals and values with Painted Wolf Foundation and aims to raise $4 million in its first three years,” says Dyer. “It will act as a vehicle for raising and deploying resources to African painted wolf conservation projects. Acting in tandem, PWF will manage the Fund and provide the analysis, design, training, and continuous support for the projects in which the Fund invests.”
PWF and the Painted Dog Fund follow the same strategy that was articulately laid out in the late Diane Skinner’s seminal report, “Securing the Future of the Painted Wolf”.
“When Nick, Diane and I set up PWF in 2018,” says Peter Blinston, co-founder of PWF and the Executive Director of Painted Dog Conservation in Zimbabwe, “we shared a vision of putting the painted wolf on the top table of conservation and ensuring that proven conservation measures were in place wherever they exist. The combination of PWF and the Painted Dog Fund brings support to brilliant conservationists working across Africa who want to save this species. It’s really exciting to see this opportunity come alive in Tsavo.”
In 2020, the discovery of over 330 dead elephants in Botswana’s Okavango Delta during an aerial survey shocked scientists and the world. It was one of the most significant mass mortality events of large mammals in recent southern African history. The remote location and the peak of the COVID-19 pandemic hampered initial investigations, leaving the cause of the deaths unanswered. Now, scientists have confirmed a theory that was suspected by many at the time.
Little evidence pointed to anthrax or a virus. All theories, including death due to viral or bacterial infections, lacked sufficient evidence. All elephants had their tusks intact, ruling out poaching incidents. The Botswana government suggested the deaths could be due to environmental intoxication by cyanobacterial toxins, also known as cyanotoxins, but the theory lacked evidence.
Four years after the incident, new research provides the most comprehensive insight into this tragic event to date. Scientists took a groundbreaking approach, combining remote sensing and spatial analysis to reconstruct the elephants’ movements and link them to the environmental conditions that likely contributed to their deaths. This innovative approach works around the logistical challenges of traditional field-based investigations in remote areas.
The researchers, from Kings College in London and the Okavango Research Institute, focused on the eastern Okavango Panhandle, a region characterised by a complex network of permanent and ephemeral water bodies known as pans. They analysed data from 2015 to 2023 and used satellite imagery to map the location and water levels of approximately 3,000 pans.
The researchers integrated this data with the locations of elephant carcasses and live elephants, obtained from an aerial survey conducted in July 2020. This survey categorised carcasses based on their decomposition state: fresh (deaths within a month), recent (deaths within six months), and bones (older deaths). A key finding was a statistically significant difference in the spatial distribution of fresh/recent carcasses compared to the distribution of bones and live elephants, indicating that the die-off deviated from typical regional mortality patterns.
Elephants drinking in Okavango Delta
They revealed a striking correlation. Twenty pans near fresh carcasses showed a dramatic increase in cyanobacteria bloom events in 2020, exhibiting the highest average phytoplankton biomass recorded between 2015 and 2023. High levels of cyanobacteria produce potent toxins, posing a threat to the health of wildlife relying on these water bodies, and these findings suggest a heightened risk of cyanotoxin presence in these specific water sources. Elephants, which can drink up to 200 litres of water a day, could be particularly vulnerable due to consumption of large amounts of the toxins.
Scientists found that the estimated travel distance of the elephants before death, approximately 16.5 kilometres, was consistent with cyanotoxin poisoning.
The period between April and May 2020 showed the highest algae production, although high productivity and bloom events occurred throughout the year. On average, these pans had water only 11% of the time between January and July 2019, compared to 55% in 2020. There was a shift from a dry 2019 to a significantly wetter 2020, a change likely responsible for triggering the extreme algal growth in the pans.
While it might seem strange that blooms occur in wetter periods, Davide Lomeo, a member of the team from the Department of Geography at King’s College London, says there is an explanation.
“An increased amount of water being introduced into these systems does not suppress blooms. In the very short term, during the rainy period, bloom formation may be temporarily ‘suppressed’ due to the sustained water disturbance (by rain). In the short term, this may cause greater dilution but also leads to the re-suspension of sediments from dried-up waterhole beds and/or surrounding dusty areas.” Cyanobacteria, or blue-green algae, flourish in warm, stagnant waters rich in nutrients.
Coupled with the heavy rains, this led “to greater availability of nutrients within the water, that (especially) after the rains, when water is stagnant, increases the likelihood of bloom events,” says Lomeo.
Elephants crossing the lush delta
The question of whether such events could have occurred in the past is a valid one. “Our satellite analysis (alongside others performed in areas around the Okavango Delta) showed that, at least for the past 20 years, there have not been years as dry as 2019,” according to Lomeo. He says 2015 also was very dry, but 2016 was nowhere near as wet as 2020. “This means that the drying up of these waterholes was not followed by such unprecedented flushing event,” he explains, “but we cannot know for certain what happened in the more distant past.”
In the same year, 35 elephants died in neighbouring Zimbabwe from an obscure bacterium in hot conditions. In that case, they suspected the bacteria, which live naturally in the tonsils of some animals, can pass into the bloodstream when temperatures go over 37 degrees Celsius (as in the case of antelopes dying in Kazakhstan in 2015), but this was not confirmed to be the case with the Zimbabwean elephants.
Does this mean events like this will become the norm with changing climatic conditions? “We cannot say for certain if these events will become more frequent, but we are seeing all around the world that climate change is leading to more frequent and extreme weather events, so everything suggests that we may be going in that direction,” says Lomeo.
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Guide to Greater Kruger + Afrika Odyssey finale + Gambella NP
Well, our tusker-count article has certainly got people talking! Two common themes have emerged so far from the threads we are monitoring:
many non-trophy hunters did not know that Southern Africa also has tuskers. Perhaps this is because our Kenyan colleagues have done a far better job at celebrating these icons. Did you know that five of the Magnificent Seven of the late 20th century Kruger National Park era had tusks weighing more than 120 pounds on each side? One giant – João – weighed in at 154 and 132 pounds! None of the current Kruger tuskers seem anywhere near João’s size, but some are impressive beasts indeed. In 2015, one of the largest elephants in this region was shot in Zimbabwe by a German property mogul. Those tusks weighed in at 121 and 123 pounds. An era is slipping us by …
VERY few tourists and even researchers have seen a tusker. One researcher commented: “My wife and I have been involved in elephant conservation for the past 12 years, mainly in Ruaha, and visited the Serengeti. We have never seen a tusker, despite flying hundreds of hours over Ruaha at low level.”
I wonder when my colleagues running influential tourism companies will stick their heads above the parapet and sound the alarm bells about the role of trophy hunting in rapidly diminishing tusker numbers. With a few notable exceptions, the tourism industry maintains a resounding silence on the matter. Does your safari company care? Just asking.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
High in the Maluti mountains of Lesotho, a fascinating relationship unfolds between crows and a newly identified psychoactive mushroom, Psilocybe maluti. Known locally as koae-ea-lekhoaba, or “crow’s mushroom”, its name reflects a curious observation: pied crows consume these toffee-capped fungi. What’s more, the mushroom may depend on animals like crows for spore dispersal.
While a recent curiosity for scientists, the mushroom has long been used by Basotho diviners to induce trance-like states. However, knowledge of the mushrooms’ impact on crows remains speculative. Are the crows drawn to its psychoactive properties, or merely after insects on the cow dung heaps where these mushrooms grow?
This week we take a deep dive into Greater Kruger – offering you all the travel tips and insight you need for planning a divine safari to this iconic destination. And, we celebrate the successful completion of Kingsley Holgate’s Afrika Odyssey expedition to all the African Parks (AP) protected areas across the continent. It has been a thrilling journey, and we have so enjoyed Sheelagh Antrobus’s narration of the adventure. Don’t miss the last story in this series below. We also have a look at the latest protected area that has now entered AP’s orbit: Ethiopia’s Gambella National Park.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
This safari delivers two of Africa’s most popular safari meccas: the iconic Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe and Chobe – Botswana’s most popular national park. Enjoy an activity every day, from river cruises to game drives, a helicopter flip above Victoria Falls and, for the more adventurous, bungee jumping and river rafting – and so much more!
Finding wild dogs + Victoria Falls safari – 14 days – from US$13,735pps
This unforgettable 14-day journey through Southern Africa, led by expert guides, will take you to the best spots to see endangered African wild dogs. Visit Hwange, Mana Pools, Linyanti and Khwai, and stop over in Victoria Falls. Experience guided bush walks, game drives, mokoro excursions and canoe trips – all in search of painted wolves.
The spray of Victoria Falls, abundant wildlife in Chobe National Park, and a sunset cruise down the Great Zambezi… what an adventure Leslie and Carol had on their African safari! The pair from the United Kingdom spent six days on a memorable AG trip. Here’s what they had to say about their experience:
“Awesome… we had an amazing time, especially at Chobe Game Lodge – top-class accommodation and an exceptional itinerary!! Whilst Victoria Falls Safari Lodge was also very good, going to Chobe afterwards was the icing on the cake. Thanks for your recommendation – a great experience that definitely exceeded our expectations!” – Leslie, UK
WATCH: Incredible footage of a hyena attempting to make a meal of a pangolin. Don’t fret – the story has a happy ending for the pangolin, which disappeared into a dense and impenetrable thicket after the encounter. From our archives. (01:00) Click here to watch
The Greater Kruger is a giant among conservation landscapes in Southern Africa, standing alongside renowned destinations like Botswana’s Okavango Delta and Kenya’s Maasai Mara National Reserve in its iconic status and vast offering for safari goers.
The complement of Greater Kruger to Kruger National Park and surrounding private reserves creates one of Africa’s largest protected areas. At the heart of the Greater Kruger vision is that conservation can drive the region’s economy, resulting in thriving landscapes for wildlife and people.
What exactly is the Greater Kruger?
Greater Kruger refers to the various private and community game reserves adjacent and open to the western boundary of South Africa’s Kruger National Park. Cooperating across boundaries, Greater Kruger’s partner reserves — Sabi Sand, MalaMala, Timbavati, Klaserie, Umbabat, Balule, Thornybush, and the community-owned reserves of Manyeleti, Letaba Ranch, and Makuya — have committed to collaborate with the Kruger National Park to create a managed conservation landscape that’s almost the size of Rwanda.
Gathering to drink in Sabi Sand
Over 4,000 private individuals hold some stake in the various private reserves that comprise Greater Kruger. Historically, many were predominantly marginal agricultural properties and consumptive-use hunting farms that transitioned to conservation and began managing their lands primarily for wildlife rather than livestock. In 1993, many of these private owners agreed to remove the fences between their reserves and the Kruger National Park, creating the Greater Kruger landscape.
Historically, community reserves have received minimal investment compared to other private reserves. The exception is MalaMala due to its unique history—its private ownership was transferred to the Nwandlamhari community in a landmark deal in 2013.
The Boundless landscapes of Greater Kruger
Spanning the Sand, Olifants and Limpopo River systems, Greater Kruger comprises woodlands, wetlands, and grasslands. The Greater Kruger region features a diverse mosaic of landscapes and vegetation types. These ecosystems support abundant wildlife, forming one of Africa’s richest biodiversity hotspots.
Riverside safari magic in Greater Kruger
The terrain varies from flat plains to gently rolling hills, with some areas featuring rocky outcrops and ridges that provide shelter for smaller mammals and reptiles. Vegetation in Greater Kruger mirrors the broader savannah biome, with northern regions dominated by hardy mopane woodlands along lower-lying areas, characterised by their resilience to dry conditions and essential role in feeding elephants and other browsers. Moving southward, the landscape transitions into mixed Combretum woodlands, where bushwillows and marulas thrive alongside open grasslands, creating ideal habitats for grazing herbivores and the predators that follow them. Along river courses and seasonal drainage lines, lush riverine forests of jackalberry, sycamore fig, and fever trees create shaded, fertile corridors teeming with birdlife and aquatic species. These reserves also feature iconic Lowveld vegetation, including scattered baobabs and granite koppies dotted with aloes and other drought-tolerant plants. The interplay of these landscapes and vegetation types forms a rich tapestry of habitats that supports an extraordinary diversity of wildlife.
Healthy ecosystems sustain tourism by supporting wildlife, but even more importantly, provide essential services like water regulation and purification for wildlife and human populations. Rivers and wetlands in Greater Kruger act as natural filtration systems, providing cleaner water and managing water flow, which is crucial for agriculture, drinking water, and sanitation outside the park. Greater Kruger’s forests, grasslands, and wetlands also sequester carbon, helping to mitigate climate change.
The abundant wildlife of Greater Kruger
Greater Kruger’s woodlands, wetlands, and grasslands provide critical habitat for an extraordinary array of wildlife, with its open system enabling fauna to move between the national park and private and community reserves.
Wildlife viewing in Greater Kruger is unmatched. Here, a lion pride takes down a buffalo in Sabi Sand
Iconic species include the Big Five—lion, leopard, elephant, rhino, and buffalo—alongside cheetahs, wild dogs, and hyenas. Its diverse habitats support giraffes, zebras, antelope species like kudu and impala, and smaller mammals such as honey badgers and porcupines. Rivers and wetlands attract hippos, crocodiles, and abundant birdlife, including eagles, hornbills, and kingfishers. Reptiles like pythons and monitor lizards are also common. This rich biodiversity thrives in Greater Kruger’s well-preserved ecosystems, making it a premier destination for wildlife enthusiasts and conservation efforts.
Significantly, the north-south shape of the Kruger National Park is not optimal for seasonal wildlife migrations, so the additional range provided by the reserves on the western boundary of the national park makes an important difference to the functioning of the ecosystem.
While other protected areas in Africa—like the Serengeti National Park, Maasai Mara National Reserve, and Etosha National Park—are renowned for specific aspects (the Great Migration in Serengeti and Maasai Mara, or the stark landscapes of Etosha), Greater Kruger’s all-around offerings combine large-scale wildlife conservation, visitor accessibility, historical significance, and various ecosystems, making it unique in the African context.
Spotting a giraffe roadblock in Thornybush
Large mammals like carnivores and elephants play a critical role in maintaining Greater Kruger’s ecosystem and the benefits it provides. As landscape architects, elephants create clearings in wooded areas as they move around and feed, which lets new plants grow and forests regenerate naturally. They also disperse their dung and tree and other seeds over vast distances, promoting healthier vegetation. Meanwhile, predators like lions, cheetahs, and wild dogs help balance the ecosystem by keeping herbivore populations healthy and providing food for scavengers like hyenas, vultures, and smaller predators that recycle nutrients into the ecosystem.
Visiting Greater Kruger
Not all parts of Greater Kruger are equal or equally accessible to visitors. Visiting the Kruger National Park is different to visiting Greater Kruger private and community reserves. While they share a common management blueprint, each protected area has its social and conservation history and offers a distinctive safari experience.
Most private reserves are supported by private funding through a world-renowned high-end tourism market. The reserves of Greater Kruger limit visitor access to overnight stays at exclusive lodges with no self-drive and few self-catering options.
Enjoying a magical view of the boundless Londolozi landscape, in Sabi Sand
Relatively high prices and strict access control for private reserves in the Greater Kruger result in low visitor numbers compared to the neighbouring Kruger National Park. They also offer off-road driving (by experienced guides), night drives, bush walks and other activities that guarantee memorable wildlife encounters and experiences for those who choose and can afford to visit them. And they have become a critical band of protection for the Kruger National Park, helping to counter wildlife crime.
Most Greater Kruger reserves can only be experienced by overnight guests
Conserving the most valuable assets of Greater Kruger
Regarding the brass-tacks management of Greater Kruger, the Associated Private Nature Reserves (APNR) is responsible for managing wildlife populations, including shared efforts in monitoring species, anti-poaching measures, and habitat conservation. The APNR is an affiliation of the reserves Timbavati, Klaserie, Balule, Umbabat, and Thornybush. Together, they coordinate with Kruger National Park and act as a single body, sharing resources and adhering to shared conservation policies under the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area.
While the reserves operate as private tourism destinations, they are subject to agreements with SANParks (South African National Parks). This ensures that tourism activities like game drives and lodge operations align with conservation goals. The APNR also conducts research and collects data on wildlife dynamics, population trends, and habitat use, contributing to the overall scientific understanding of the Greater Kruger ecosystem.
Hunting does occur in some of the Greater Kruger reserves. It is governed by the South African government’s conservation authorities, such as the Limpopo and Mpumalanga provincial agencies, and specific reserve-management policies. Each year, these authorities assess wildlife populations, conservation needs, and ecological impact to determine quotas for hunting. The fees generated from hunting permits and trophy hunting contribute to conservation funding within the reserves that allow this activity. While hunting in Greater Kruger is managed with an emphasis on sustainability and conservation, it remains a controversial practice. Ethical considerations regarding trophy hunting, especially of iconic or endangered species, are often debated. There is no hunting in Sabi Sand or MalaMala.
Private reserves of Greater Kruger ensure that activities like game drives meet the conservation perimeters set by SANParks
The APNR plays a critical role in anti-poaching strategies, with dedicated ranger teams, surveillance technologies, and cooperation with SANParks to protect species like rhinos and elephants.
All reserves in the Greater Kruger landscape face wildlife and environmental crime. The Greater Kruger Environmental Protection Foundation (GKEPF) is a registered not-for-profit organisation that assists with the cooperation and coordination needed to prevent poaching and harmonize approaches to reporting, technology, and partnerships in the landscape by working with the various reserves. The Greater Kruger Area is home to South Africa’s largest rhino population. Therefore, it is a critical area for their conservation. The government and non-profit entities, including GKEPF and its partners, continue to commit funds and resources to combat these crimes.
Sabi Sand is one of the best areas in South Africa for spotting leopards
Highlight: Known for its exclusive lodges and leopards, Sabi Sand offers unrivalled encounters with these elusive cats amid rich riverine landscapes.
The conservation history of Sabi Sand began in 1898 when the area became part of the Sabie Reserve (proclaimed in 1902), which incorporated the Kruger National Park. In 1926, the National Parks Act of South Africa was passed, and private landowners adjacent to the newly proclaimed Kruger National Park were excised. Some of these landowners formed the Sabie Reserve in 1934. It became the 52,000-hectare* Sabi Sand Wildtuin in 1948. Today, the reserve’s reputation for luxury, exclusivity, and exceptional wildlife sightings, particularly leopards, makes it a sought-after safari destination globally. Sabi Sand’s lodges support conservation through tourism revenue. The reserve limits visitor numbers, and its lodges offer exclusive, immersive experiences.
Access: Only overnight guests can access Sabi Sand. Most visitors fly to Hoedspruit’s Eastgate Airport, Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport, Skukuza Airport, or private airstrips. Experienced guides lead all activities, and lodges offer exceptional personalised service, gourmet dining, and private game viewing.
MalaMala Game Reserve – read more
MalaMala offers a Big 5 experience without the crowds
Highlight: MalaMala is distinguished by its vast traversing area. It offers exclusive, crowd-free wildlife sightings and access to 20 kilometres of the Sand River.
MalaMala also formed part of the historic Sabie Game Reserve. In 1927, just after the Kruger National Park was proclaimed, 13,200 hectares between the National Park and the Sabi Sand Reserve were purchased privately and developed for tourism. In 1962, MalaMala became the first private reserve in South Africa to prohibit hunting and transition to purely photographic safaris. In a landmark land restitution deal in 2013, the ownership of MalaMala was transferred to the Nwandlamhari community. A co-management agreement allowed community ownership while maintaining the reserve’s conservation and tourism operations. The reserve is on the southeastern side of Greater Kruger, away from the busier western boundaries, and its traversing areas are carefully managed. This means sightings are exclusive, with minimal vehicle presence. Mala Mala’s lodges support conservation through tourism revenue.
Access: MalaMala only caters to overnight guests. Most visitors fly to Hoedspruit’s Eastgate Airport, Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport, Skukuza Airport, or private airstrips within the reserve. All activities are guide-led, and hospitality is high-end, personal, and exclusive, with excellent game viewing.
Timbavati Private Nature Reserve – read more
A white rhino in Timbavati
Highlight: Timbavati is famous for its diverse wildlife, including predators and large herds of buffalos and elephants. It’s also increasingly recognised for linking conservation goals with socio-economic development.
The 53,396-hectare Timbavati Private Nature Reserve was established in 1956 by cattle farmers who saw more potential in wildlife conservation. When its boundary fences with Kruger National Park were removed in 1993, it was already a thriving game reserve sustained by the Timbavati River and seasonal waterholes that draw in diverse wildlife, including elephants, buffalo, and predators. Today, the Timbavati Association manages the reserve, coordinating conservation and eco-tourism efforts among 47 landowners under a unified constitution. Lodges attract local and international visitors, providing jobs for eco-tourism and supporting conservation funding through tourism and limited hunting revenue. Timbavati is known for its efforts to integrate conservation, community empowerment, and sustainability.
Access: Timbavati is only accessible to overnight guests. It’s a 20-minute drive from Hoedspruit’s Eastgate Airport, and the reserve has various private airstrips. Timbavati’s luxury lodges offer conservation-oriented and immersive all-inclusive safari experiences that rival the best in the industry. There are limited self-catering exclusive-use properties and multi-day backpacking or glamping experiences where guests can explore on foot and sleep out.
Klaserie Private Nature Reserve – read more
Dusk dining under African skies in Klaserie
Highlight: Known for its secluded, quiet wilderness, Klaserie is the biggest reserve in the Greater Kruger. It offers a genuinely remote safari experience with fewer crowds.
More than 50 years ago (1972), a collection of private landowners decided to pull down fences between their respective properties and form the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve. Like the other reserves that removed their fences, Klaserie became part of Greater Kruger in 1993. The reserve habitat is varied, with rocky outcrops, riverine trees, open floodplains, sandy drainage lines, and quiet dams. Game drives in the 60,080-hectare Klaserie also stand out for their quieter atmosphere. Only a few vehicles are allowed at any sighting, providing undisturbed wildlife viewing and longer observation times. Its low-density, low-impact ethic safeguards an authentic experience and helps preserve the integrity of the wilderness itself. Klaserie’s lodges support conservation and social development through tourism and limited hunting revenue.
Access and Accommodation: To visit Klaserie, book into one of its lodges. Just 20 minutes from Hoedspruit’s Eastgate Airport, Klaserie is known for personalised safari experiences, with fully catered high-end options, mid-range lodges, tented camps, and exclusive-use villas.
Umbabat Private Nature Reserve – read more
Silence on the banks of a river in Umbabat – a typical experience in this almost-secret destination
Highlight: Umbabat feels like the most secret part of Greater Kruger due to its location, rugged landscape, and relatively low-profile tourism.
Established in 1956 and later expanded, Umbabat Reserve covers around 18,000 hectares between Timbavati and Klaserie on the northern boundary of Greater Kruger. It’s a quieter, more untouched corner of this vast conservation area, attracting those who seek a remote and authentic safari experience. The seasonal Nhlaralumi River, which runs through the reserve, is a lifeline for animals during the dry season and a central feature of Umbabat’s ecosystem. Umbabat has low visitor numbers and few commercial lodges. This means that sightings are rarely shared with other vehicles. The reserve operates under a federal share-block model, and land use, hunting, and conservation decisions are made collectively, with funds pooled for reserve-wide projects.
Access: Umbabat is only accessible to overnight guests. The closest airport is Hoedspruit’s Eastgate Airport. There are limited commercial lodges.
Balule Nature Reserve – read more
Elephants gather for a drink and a splash in the waters of Balule
Highlight: Balule is ideal for visitors seeking a balance between wildlife experiences and their budget. It has several well-known, family-run camps and offers many tourism experiences and accommodation options.
Balule Nature Reserve has an interesting history that mirrors the region’s shift from agricultural land use to conservation. It covers 55,000 hectares along the Olifants River. Established in the early 1990s, Balule was a collection of privately owned farms, many used for cattle grazing. In the early 1990s, conservation-minded landowners consolidated their properties, removing fences to create a larger, contiguous conservation area. This collaborative effort marked the establishment of Balule Nature Reserve, which then joined the Associated Private Nature Reserves and dropped fences with Kruger National Park. You’ll see remnants of its farming past, but the reserve has good populations of lions, elephants, buffalos, leopards and general game. Since its formation, Balule has focused heavily on conservation, with particular attention to rhino protection. Balule is on the Western boundary of the Greater Kruger, which means it’s an important first line of defence in countering wildlife crime. There is limited hunting in the reserve.
Access: You need to be an overnight guest to visit Balule. It’s accessible via Hoedspruit’s Eastgate Airport or private airstrips. Balule offers accommodations ranging from budget to luxury lodges, tented camps, wilderness backpack trails, voluntourism, and eco-tourism training facilities.
Thornybush Private Nature Reserve – read more
Wild dogs in Thornybush
Highlight: The reserve dropped its fences with Kruger National Park in 2017, making it a dynamic piece of the Greater Kruger puzzle with excellent wildlife sightings.
Thornybush covers 14,000 hectares and has become a prominent name in the Greater Kruger ecosystem due to its luxury lodges and well-developed, exclusive tourism infrastructure. In the 1950s, Thornybush transitioned from agricultural land to a conservation-focused reserve but operated with fenced boundaries for decades, keeping wildlife within its borders. However, in 2017, Thornybush took a major conservation step by removing sections of its fencing along the western boundary with the neighbouring Timbavati Private Nature Reserve so wildlife can move freely between Thornybush, Timbavati, and Kruger National Park. Thornybush has since become deeply involved in conservation efforts, particularly in anti-poaching initiatives to protect endangered species like rhinos and supports research and monitoring programs to sustain wildlife populations and habitat health.
Access: To visit Thornybush, guests need to be booked into one of its lodges. It’s accessible via Hoedspruit’s Eastgate Airport or private airstrips within the reserve. It’s known for its luxury eco-tourism experiences, hosting a range of high-end lodges that emphasise a low-impact tourism model.
Manyeleti Game Reserve – read more
Quenching thirst on a hot day, Manyeleti
Highlight: Manyeleti’s affordable safari options aren’t well known, making this a hidden gem in the Greater Kruger landscape. It borders Sabi Sand, so you may just see the area’s famous leopards at a fraction of the price.
During the apartheid era, the South African government designated Manyeleti exclusively for black visitors, which is how the reserve was resourced. And despite being established on ancestral lands of local communities, they were not allowed ownership or management roles despite having some access to the reserve. After the end of apartheid in 1994, land restitution laws enabled local communities to file land claims on areas from which they had been displaced. It’s been a rocky road to restitution, including ongoing disputes around land claims, infrastructure limitations and competition from more established private reserves. In the meantime, the Mpumalanga Tourism and Parks Agency manages the reserve as part of Greater Kruger, and visitors regularly see lions, buffalos, elephants, and leopards. Despite its rich biodiversity, the 23,000-hectare Manyeleti remains less commercialised than other reserves and focuses exclusively on eco-tourism and wildlife conservation.
Access: It’s a 45-minute drive from Hoedspruit’s Eastgate airport. Self-driving and tour operator-run day visits, and game drives are allowed. You can book overnight at the provincially run self-catering rest camp or one of the few high-end, all-inclusive luxury lodges in reserve.
Letaba Ranch Game Reserve – read more
Doing an interpretive trail in Letaba Ranch Game Reserve
Highlight: Letaba Ranch Game Reserve’s roads are less travelled than any others in the Greater Kruger, making it an option for the most self-sufficient travellers eager to explore new areas.
Established in the 1970s, Letaba Ranch is a 42,000-hectare area on Kruger’s border. Initially managed by Limpopo Province, the reserve was intended to reduce human-wildlife conflict by creating a buffer zone between the Kruger National Park and adjacent communities. However, the reserve faced several challenges due to limited infrastructure and resources for effective wildlife management. Community access was restricted, which created tensions as people were displaced from lands they traditionally relied on. Some of these tensions persist today. After apartheid ended in 1994, South African restitution policies allowed communities to claim land from which they had been previously removed. This led to the reserve adopting a model that includes community benefits from tourism and conservation, but it’s been a contested process, and the reserve continues to face conservation, social and security challenges. Its history reflects the broader challenges of integrating conservation with community rights and economic sustainability in South Africa’s Protected areas. Its main economic activity has been hunting.
Access: It’s close to Phalaborwa town. Self-drive day and overnight visitors can visit the reserve but expect limited infrastructure and basic campsites. There is one safari camp in the reserve.
Makuya Nature Reserve – read more
Highlight: Makuya’s Luvuvhu River gorge and mountainous landscape provide stunning vistas, unique wildlife habitats, and a rich cultural history.
Makuya Nature Reserve in the northern part of South Africa’s Limpopo Province has a unique history that intertwines with local communities, land restitution efforts, and conservation. The reserve is about 16,000 hectares and features dramatic cliffs and river gorges that provide some of the most stunning views in the Greater Kruger. It was initially part of a broader effort to establish buffer zones around Kruger National Park, protecting the ecosystem and creating sustainable land use for surrounding communities. The apartheid government, however, displaced indigenous communities and limited their rights to access and use the land. With the end of apartheid in 1994, the community reclaimed their rights to the land. Today, Makuya Nature Reserve is managed through a collaborative structure that involves the Makuya community, Limpopo provincial authorities, and conservation organisations. It is used for both trophy hunting and photographic tourism purposes. The reserve emphasises the conservation of cultural heritage sites within its boundaries, including sacred sites.
Access: Overnight and day visitors are welcome. Accessible from Pafuri Gate in Northern Kruger, Makuya offers rustic, self-catering camps and campsites, as well as eco-tourism activities such as guided game drives, walking safaris (including multi-day backpack trails), and cultural tours. While the reserve’s tourism infrastructure is modest compared to other Greater Kruger reserves, it provides an authentic, off-the-beaten-path safari experience.
Final thoughts
The Greater Kruger stands as a beacon of hope for conservation and community upliftment in Southern Africa. Its breathtaking landscapes, diverse ecosystems, and remarkable wildlife are a testament to the power of collaboration between private reserves, communities, and national parks. This iconic wilderness not only offers unforgettable safari experiences but also exemplifies the profound impact of harmonizing conservation and economic development. As Greater Kruger continues to evolve, it remains a symbol of Africa’s resilience, beauty, and commitment to preserving its natural heritage for generations to come.
Jamie Paterson spends time with the famous leopards of Sabi Sand Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger, on a specialised leopard safari. Read more about her safari here
Check out these two epic photo galleries from safaris to Klaserie here and here.
* The commonly used 65,000-hectare area measurement for Sabi Sand Nature Reserve often includes the area measurement of MalaMala, for which we have provided a separate measurement above.
African Parks has joined forces with the Ethiopian Wildlife Conservation Authority and Ethiopia’s Gambella State to chart a new course for the conservation and development of Gambella National Park. The management partnership, signed this week, is a pivotal step in protecting one of Ethiopia’s most ecologically significant landscapes.
African Parks has signed a long-term management partnership with the Ethiopian Wildlife Conservation Authority (EWCA) and the President of the Gambella Peoples’ National Regional State (the Gambella State) to manage Gambella National Park, the largest national park in Ethiopia.
Gambella National Park has vital social and ecological value. It forms part of an important ecosystem within the Gambella State, on which local communities and wildlife populations rely for survival. The region is inhabited by various pastoral and agricultural Nilotic communities, including the Nuer, Anuak, Majang, and Omotic peoples – comprising a local population estimated to be approximately 400,000. It supports important wildlife populations and extensive wetlands that provide critical habitat for Nile lechwe, buffalo and migratory birds. In addition, Gambella forms a key part of a much larger natural system that stretches across southern Ethiopia and South Sudan, which is home to the largest land mammal migration on Earth. As announced earlier this year, approximately six million antelope move across the broader landscape annually, incorporating Gambella and South Sudan’s Boma-Badingilo National Parks.
Gambella National Park is situated in southwestern Ethiopia and covers approximately 4,575 km2. Gambella was established as a national park in 1973 to preserve its exceptional biodiversity and important wetland habitats. Located between two major river systems, the Baro River in the north and the Akobo River in the south, Gambella is rich in its species variety, including the country’s largest remaining population of elephant and one of the most endangered giraffe populations in the world – the Nubian giraffe.
A herd of buffalo on the move in Gambella
Today’s agreement will allow a collaborative partnership between African Parks, EWCA, the Gambella State, and local communities to channel new investment into the region and develop a comprehensive strategy for conserving the park’s biodiversity. This will enable the region to develop resilience to climate change while promoting the sustainable use of resources to benefit those who depend on them for their livelihoods. To achieve long-term success and sustainable conservation efforts, the partnership will start with a 12-month transition period, enabling African Parks to better understand the needs of the communities living around the park and to co-create a management plan with input from local stakeholders.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? You can plan and book your African Parks safari by clicking here.
This important initiative is made possible by the European Union, the Hempel Foundation, the Wyss Foundation, and various philanthropic funders’ support.
Kumara Wakjira, Director General of EWCA, says: “This partnership is more than just a contractual agreement; it is a testament to the power of collaboration. We look forward to working with both the Gambella Peoples’ National Regional State and African Parks to unlock the full potential of Gambella – not only for Gambella as a region but for Ethiopia as a whole.”
Gambella’s undulating skyline
Alemitu Umod, President of Gambella Peoples’ National Regional State, says: “Gambella National Park is at the heart of our region, and this partnership marks the beginning of a new chapter in Gambella’s story. By working together with African Parks and EWCA, we’ll not only conserve our wilderness but also create economic opportunities for local communities. This is a significant step towards a more prosperous and sustainable future for our region.”
Hailemariam Dessalegn, former Prime Minister of Ethiopia and Board Member of the African Parks Network, says: “This is an important step in the long-term protection of these vital ecosystems and will help secure lasting benefits for the people and wildlife of Ethiopia. African Parks is a recognised partner in protected area management across Africa, and I am confident that this will be a productive and successful partnership, which will see significant benefits for the region and the country.”
Peter Fearnhead, CEO of African Parks, says: “We are honoured to be working with the Ethiopian Wildlife Conservation Authority and with the government and local communities in the Gambella Peoples’ National Regional State. This agreement is a testament to their commitment to safeguard the future of Gambella and its vitally important biodiversity for the benefit of all who rely on it.”
Nile lechwe in Gambella
African Parks currently manages 23 protected areas in 13 countries covering over 20 million hectares in Angola, Benin, Central African Republic, Chad, the Democratic Republic of Congo, Ethiopia, Malawi, Mozambique, the Republic of Congo, South Sudan, Rwanda, Zambia and Zimbabwe.
Throughout this Afrika Odyssey Expedition, from Angola to Mozambique, Rwanda to the DRC and South Sudan, then further north to Congo-Brazzaville, Chad and Benin, among all the incredible stories of hope for wildlife revival and community empowerment we’ve documented, there’s been one particular topic of excited chatter amongst the African Parks staff across the continent. It’s about one of the most ambitious conservation projects focusing on rhinos ever undertaken that will surely go down in history.
“You can’t really say you’ve completed the Expedition without visiting our newest undertaking. I’m sure there’s still room for another calabash filling – call it number 23!” says Dave Wilson, African Parks’ commercial director, who’s been our go-to guy throughout this challenging journey.
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
What took you so long?
And so, back home in South Africa, after reaching Chinko in the Central African Republic, our last wildlife destination, we exchange sweat-stained clobber for jackets and beanies and head into a highveld winter; what a contrast after months of endless heat and extreme humidity. This final, extra leg sees us winding up the spectacular Oliviershoek Pass in the foothills of the Drakensberg, along back roads passing hibernating farmlands and dusty communities, and down a narrow dirt track to an electrified gate and a welcoming party of just two solitary figures.
“Welcome to Rhino Rewild – what took you so long? We’ve been looking forward to seeing you!” shouts jovial Don Jooste, the project manager. “Hope you’re not too tired after your lengthy journey to get here?” adds Kyle Harris from AP’s head office with a tongue-in-cheek grin.
Last year, after failing to find a buyer, a rhino breeding operation of 2,000 southern white rhinos on a 7,800-hectare farm in the North West province became African Parks’ newest responsibility. This enormous herd represents 12% of the world’s remaining southern white rhino population, and with poaching syndicates still cashing in on Asia’s relentless but stupendously ignorant demand for rhino horn, it was an obligation that African Parks couldn’t refuse.
A rhino calf on the farm
Saving rhinos
In 2023, South Africa lost 499 rhinos, with our home province of KwaZulu-Natal setting a grim new poaching record: 325 brutally killed for their horns. The province’s flagship Hluhluwe-Mfolozi Park, established in 1895 specifically to save the last remnants of southern white rhino that once roamed in tens of thousands across south and central Africa, is now ‘Ground Zero’ of the rhino-poaching war, taking over that dreadful mantle from the Kruger National Park, which has seen its rhino population plummet to levels that are too tragic to mention.
95% of KZN’s rhino losses last year occurred in Hluhluwe-Mfolozi. It’s a double tragedy as it is from this iconic park in the 1960s, that conservation legend and our long-time friend Dr Ian Player, along with Magqubu Ntombela, Nick Steele and others, initiated the translocation of hundreds of southern white rhinos to other game reserves throughout their historic range in ‘Operation Rhino’, including into the Kruger.
At the time, it was a conservation world-first that saw Africa’s southern white rhino population increase to around 22,000. But in the past 15 years, more than half have savagely fallen victim to poachers’ guns. The long-term impact on defenceless rhino orphans and the overall birth rate is still to be measured.
In 2014, at 87 years-old, Dr Player (‘Madolo’ as he was known in Zululand) had lost nothing of his passion and verve. Seventy days before he quietly passed away, we observed how he mesmerised youth from around the world and Africa’s new generation of conservationists at the inaugural World Youth Rhino Summit, symbolically held in Hluhluwe-Mfolozi Park in September of that year. Dr Player’s last speech took place on World Rhino Day on the same sloping Mfolozi hillside where he and his team pioneered the darting, capture and relocation of rhinos 50 years before.
Dr Ian Player and Kingsley Holgate in iMfolozi in the 1970s; Kingsley and Sheelagh with Dr Ian Player and team at the World Youth Rhino Summit in 2014
“What we need in the world today is to hear within us the sounds of the Earth crying. The screams of agony of rhinos who have had their horns chopped off whilst still alive should reach out into the hearts of all of us. Rhinos have a particularly plaintive cry, and once heard, it is never forgotten. If we do not pass the baton of conservation to the youth, we are doomed,” Dr Player thundered, captivating the spirit and energy of all present.
Ten years on, the baton is being handed to the next generation across Africa as he requested, but they continue to battle a myriad of challenges to fulfil his wishes, with thousands of brave men and women putting their own lives on the line. Wildlife reserves throughout the continent continue to fork out millions of dollars each year in a herculean effort to conserve what remains of both white and black rhino species from extinction. As mega-herbivores, both species play a critical role in maintaining Africa’s unique biodiversity, and also as treasured icons in many traditional African cultures. It’s a blood-and-gore-soaked tragedy that every member of our expedition team is all too familiar with and one that we’ve worked for years to see the end of.
We, too, will never forget what it is like to stare extinction in the face. In 2016, we visited Ol Pejeta in northern Kenya to spend time with 45-year-old Sudan – the last known male northern white rhino in the world – and Najin and Fatu, the only two known females. Sudan died two years later, and with him went all hopes of resurrecting their species from the abyss by natural means.
Rhino Rewild’s rhinos
As we follow Don and Kyle to Rhino Rewild’s simple HQ, huge paddocks come into view, dotted with enormous grey pachyderms. The dry, flat landscape of the farm is very different from the undulating green hills of Zululand, and we can’t help but feel a bit sorry for the residents. But Don is on a high; 120 dehorned rhinos have already been successfully moved to private reserves that are part of the Greater Kruger Environmental Protection Foundation (GKEPF). It’s the biggest, single rhino relocation ever undertaken and up there with African Parks’ other efforts to rewild at scale, like moving 500 elephants across Malawi to repopulate Nkhotakhota Forest Reserve a few years ago.
“That’s the best part of my job – seeing them return to the wild,” says Don. “If African Parks hadn’t stepped in with the support of the South African government, other conservation NGOs, and donors who provided emergency funding, these rhinos could have been lost to conservation forever. We couldn’t bear the thought…but it’s a mammoth undertaking.”
Waving an arm at the rhino paddocks around us, he continues, “We’re turning this farm into a rhino sanctuary and want to relocate all 2,000 rhinos to well-managed, secure wildlife areas across Africa within 10 years. If we can do it sooner, I’ll be the happiest guy in Africa! But we must also stay ahead of the birthing rate, and we’re not giving away just one or two rhinos at a time. The goal is to establish or supplement populations of at least 50 rhinos across the continent to protect the long-term future of this species. There’s lots of interest from other reserves, plus existing African Parks-managed wildlife areas.”
A rhino and reflection captured by Ross
As we’ve seen throughout this Afrika Odyssey Expedition, AP’s professional approach to managing daunting projects is astonishing. Each rhino paddock has an attendant ‘camp master’ who knows every rhino in their care and reports on their charges twice a day. There’s a giant database detailing every single rhino – age, sex, condition, gestation, birth history, even who’s been saucy with whom – which is updated daily to keep a finger on the pulse of this mega-herd. Security is at the next level.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? You can view and book accommodation to various African Parks destinations by clicking here.
Vet nurse Claudia Andrionie takes us on a tour of the well-managed, ‘no touching’ rhino nursery that cares for babies when their mums aren’t able to. Soft-spoken and reserved, this remarkable lady and her team have successfully reared and returned dozens of orphans back to the semi-wild existence of the farm. The boisterous, comical antics of the tubby tots and pre-teens are testament to the care they receive.
Bottle-feeding rhino orphans on the farmSheelagh feeds one of the rhino calves on the farm
The benefits of rewilding these 2,000 southern white rhinos will be immense. Not only will they improve the genetics of existing but decimated wild populations, but as mega-herbivores, they’ll play a critical role in restoring wild landscapes that will benefit everything from antelope and predators to dung beetles and butterflies and, importantly, increase tourism revenue and job opportunities for neighbouring communities. Talk about an ambitious and challenging vision of hope; Dr Player would be smiling.
As the winter sun starts its descent towards the horizon, there’s one final task to complete. We pile into Don’s bakkie and take a winding track through the rhino paddocks, stopping to talk to some camp masters before reaching a large watering hole. Out comes the well-travelled expedition calabash, looking a bit battered after its 60,000-kilometre, continent-wide journey.
Field ranger Kenneth Ndubane fills the calabash at a waterhole
Field ranger Kenneth Ndubane is given the honour. Balancing on a rock and with great concentration, he dips the calabash for this Afrika Odyssey Expedition’s final, symbolic water-collection ceremony.
There’s no brass band, cheering crowds, or salutary speeches. We stand in silence with just the sound of the wind sighing through a nearby grove of trees as the wintry landscape turns gold in the rays of the setting sun. It’s a fitting ending for this journey that’s taken us to the wild, beating heart of Africa’s most far-flung and extraordinary wildlife areas in 12 countries. It’s a deeply emotional moment; the adrenaline that’s run constantly through our veins this past year begins to dissipate.
The AP team and Kingsley pose for a final calabash momentThe Rhino Rewild team bid the expedition team well
Mission accomplished
Ending the Afrika Odyssey Expedition at African Parks’ Rhino Rewild project is the perfect conclusion: simple, yet incredibly profound with its commitment to making the future better than the present.
When we started out on this, our 41st expedition, with a mission to counter the doom-and-gloom headlines of conservation tragedies and find stories of hope for Africa’s wildlife, wild spaces and the communities that depend on them, to be honest, we weren’t sure what to expect, or if we’d find anything to celebrate. We found plenty.
This conservation, community and culture-focussed expedition across Africa to connect 22 African Parks-managed protected areas in 12 countries ended up zigzagging through 22 countries, and it was one of the toughest journeys we’ve ever undertaken: full of surprises and logistical challenges, a few mishaps and medical emergencies, and plenty of fun that embraced African Parks’ values.
Taking roads less travelled and packed with adventure, we’re inspired by the stories of hope for Africa’s wildlife that we saw first-hand. The two expedition Defender 130s tackled everything we threw at them, carrying tonnes of kit and humanitarian supplies for months on end, through some of the worst terrain and extreme weather in Africa we’ve ever encountered in 30 years of exploration.
One single thing remained constant: the determination, resilience and passion of everyone we met at each African Parks-managed protected area. Taken as a whole, the sheer scope, complexity and visionary thinking that we saw and experienced on this journey is hard to put into words.
To every member of the African Parks family – field rangers, managers and camp staff, community leaders, beneficiaries and children, teachers and health practitioners, government envoys, and so many others – thank you for the great privilege of telling us your inspirational stories and recording them in so many different languages in the Scroll of Hope for Conservation. They are the stories of heroes, so often unsung and unheard.
Don Jooste signs the expedition’s Scroll of Hope for Conservation
This expedition’s Scroll is our legacy to African Parks; a unique ‘magnum opus’ of a thousand hand-written messages and more, illustrating a profound, continent-wide love and dedication to protect Africa’s iconic wildlife and remaining wilderness areas for the benefit of nature and humanity.
At the end-of-expedition ceremony, African Parks’ CEO Peter Fearnhead and the head office team built a ceremonial Isivivane – a traditional African symbol of togetherness on a journey – made from the pebbles we collected from every Park and the Rhino Rewild Project. As Peter, with some emotion, took hold of the Zulu calabash and emptied the symbolic water collected from each park over the Isivivane, he described our year-long journey as the gift of a beautiful necklace, with each park shining like a precious jewel.
After everything we experienced on this Afrika Odyssey Expedition to connect 22 of the most extraordinary national parks on the continent that span over 20 million hectares in 12 countries, in partnership with African Parks and Land Rover, there is one ultimate finding: it is called Hope for Africa’s wildlife – and it’s alive and well. Long may it continue.
Muito Obrigado, Zikomo, Murakoze, Asante Sana, Merci, Shukran, Thank you, on behalf of the Afrika Odyssey expedition team: Kingsley, Ross, Sheelagh, Anna, Mike, Fiona and Graeme
Footnote: People often ask us why we use the spelling, “Afrika”. Afrika* is a continent so varied and unique, we are privileged to call it ‘home’. It can be all good and all bad, all at the same time. It is the cradle of humankind and a land of ‘firsts’: the longest and most historic river in the world (Nile); the highest, free-standing mountain on Earth (Mt Kilimanjaro); the world’s longest and second-deepest lake (Lake Tanganyika); superlative deserts – Sahara (largest), Namib (oldest) and Kalahari (largest mantle of vegetated sand). And home to the biggest diversity of life on Earth, both terrestrial and marine; and the greatest number of human cultures and dialects in the world.
* In Latin, the word ‘Afrika’ means ‘sunny’. In Greek, ‘Aphrike’ means ‘without cold’. Other sources suggest that the name comes from ‘Afri-uka’, which means ‘Motherland’ in the ancient Egyptian language. ‘Motherland’ is still used in reference to Africa today.
Further reading
Is Rhino Rewild the most critical wildlife conservation undertaking of our time? Simon Espley attended the pioneer stage of a visionary project to translocate 2,000 farmed rhinos into the wild. Here’s how it went down
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How many tuskers are left + epic wilderness gallery
This article will shake the tree – let’s see what falls out. To date, the debates about whether the killing of tusker elephants is sustainable have been held in a vacuum – because, bizarrely, there is no published estimate of how many remain. Many trophy hunting supporters claim that there are ‘plenty left’, while conservationists I regularly communicate with believe that tusker populations are reducing faster than the overall African elephant population decline – and they are incredibly concerned. A tiny minority of safari tourists have even seen a tusker.
So, many months ago, my team decided to commence the journey of finding out how many giant elephants are left. As you will read below, we have cast the net out wide and received a mixed catch. It’s important to understand that this is an ongoing process and that our estimate is not based on peer-reviewed science – for reasons explained.
We are bracing for a wave of feedback and hope that some will be useful in sharpening our estimate. I call on relevant researchers, protected area managers, concession utilisers and other experts to contact our editorial team if you have helpful information.
We will, of course, let you know each time we update this African tusker population estimate.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
The Congo Basin: where nature’s imagination knows no bounds.
In the past decade, scientists have discovered 742 new species here, including a crocodile, an air-breathing catfish, snakes, dragonflies, electric fish, an owl, and a monkey with a low haunting call that echoes through the forest: the lesula. The WWF’s latest report, “New Life in the Congo Basin”, celebrates these discoveries and sounds the call for one of the planet’s most vital ecosystems. The Congo Basin rainforests – the “lungs of Africa” – are a biodiversity hotspot and global carbon sink. But between deforestation, poaching, and climate change, it’s a race against time to protect this region. Because losing these species isn’t just ecological – it’s losing stories, lifelines, and the magic of discovery. From catfish to crocodiles, these discoveries remind us that the Congo Basin isn’t just a rainforest – it’s a treasure trove that must be conserved.
This week, we bring you a stirring gallery of images from someone whose blood runs thick with the wilds of Africa. Check out a selection of images from renowned photographer Scott Ramsay’s latest book, Spirit of Africa, below. And don’t miss our report on our investigation to determine how many tuskers remain in Africa.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Here are your front-row seats to see the Greatest Show on Earth. You’ll experience the Great Wildebeest Migration in Kenya from the banks of the Mara River inside the Maasai Mara National Reserve. Sentinel Mara Camp is perched on the river’s high banks, within a cool riverine forest. You’ll also explore Musiara Marsh and Paradise Plains – known for their excellent cat sightings.
Ultimate Kafue, Zambia – 9 days – from $US5,360pps
This safari visits central and northern Kafue National Park, Zambia – teeming with predators and vast herds of lechwe, buffalo and elephants. You’ll explore the Kafue River, vast stretches of river valleys, and the swampy floodplains of Busanga Plains, which are brimful of big cats, prey, and prolific bird life. Enjoy daily guided activities, including game drives, walking safaris, and boating.
A number of lionesses from the Kruger National Park have become part of an exciting project – Kruger’s Pride – that will bring insight into how lion pride behaviour differs in fenced and open systems. Teams from Nelson Mandela University (NMU) and the Southern African Conservation Trust (SACT) successfully fit satellite-tracking collars on seven lionesses, and three more will soon be fitted with collars too.
Kruger’s Pride aims to compare pride behaviour between open and fenced systems. The project will test the effect of pride strength on territory size, measure territory infringement, and test pride aggression response during territory infringements. Stress levels of prides will be compared, as will the ratio of prey resource availability to home-range size.
You can help by sponsoring a collar in full or by donating any amount – large or small – to support this critical conservation project. Learn more here.
WATCH: Birds call him friend: Claver Ntoyinkima, a passionate and dedicated ranger from Nyungwe National Park, is this year’s recipient of the Tusk Wildlife Ranger Award. Claver’s work in conservation, particularly in anti-poaching and driving community involvement in the protection of the environment, has earned him this international recognition. (04:30) Click here to watch
In the absence of peer-reviewed research into the topic, Africa Geographic has embarked on an extended ongoing investigation to estimate the number of tuskers remaining in Africa.
Notes:
This article serves as a ‘living document’ – subject to ongoing adjustments – as additional information is brought to light. We encourage relevant experts and authorities to contribute to our understanding of this topic. All input will be treated confidentially.
We have not provided a detailed breakdown of tuskers per country, due to the risk this may represent for unprotected elephants. The only exceptions to this rule are where specific populations are public knowledge and relevant authorities and conservation organisations have widely published their numbers.
Africa’s tuskers, also called “super tuskers”, are elephants with at least one tusk weighing 100 pounds (45kg) or more. They are icons of the continent’s heritage. However, their numbers appear to be dwindling, raising concerns about the survival of the big tusk gene. With the overall number of elephants in Africa rapidly declining, safeguarding this genetic trait and working towards their conservation is more important than ever.
How many tuskers are left?
CURRENT ESTIMATE:
Based on the information at hand, we estimate that there are 84+ tuskers remaining across Africa. This count excludes Central African forest elephant populations, where tusk measurements are rarely assessed. Anecdotal evidence and video footage suggest the presence of tusker forest elephants, but to date, we have been unable to determine an estimate.
Tusker numbers in Africa – estimate
Southern Africa
59+
East Africa
25+
Central Africa
Unknown
TOTAL
84+
HISTORICAL UPDATES (factored into the above figures):
January 2026:
Craig, Amboseli’s largest and most recognisable tusker, had died at the age of 54 of suspected natural causes following a period of declining health. Read more here. This reduced our East Africa estimate to 25, with Southern Africa remaining at 59 and the total at 84.
February 2025:
Amboseli tusker, Paolo, died of natural causes. Read more here. This reduced our East Africa estimate to 26, with Southern Africa remaining at 59 and the total at 85.
Sources consulted
We derived the above tusker population estimate by consulting wildlife authorities, protected area managers, conservation organisations, or elephant experts in areas where tuskers are thought to occur. Most responded with helpful insights, many with exact numbers, and some with the names and records of specific tuskers. However, some sources had not yet responded at the time of publication, including researchers from two prominent East African parks.
We also reached out to relevant hunting associations and operators. Those who responded did not provide specific numbers and redirected us to wildlife authorities for their relevant estimates. There are, therefore, significant gaps in our data – which we hope to fill in the coming years.
Challenges in counting tuskers – the variables
Accurately counting tuskers is fraught with difficulties. Many elephants avoid human contact or inhabit remote areas with no associated data, making it impossible to include them in population estimates. Furthermore, methods for estimating tusk size vary between regions, with some authorities focusing on tusk length, others on the circumference of the tusk at the lip, and others identifying tuskers by tusks that scrape the ground. One authority claimed that determining accurate tusk size is not always possible. However, it is worth noting that the same authority allocates trophy hunting quotas based on tusk size – resulting in professional hunters having to estimate tusk size when in the field with clients.
Tusk size is sexually dimorphic, with the tusks of bulls increasing on average at 11cm per year, while female tusks increase at 8.5cm per year (Spinage, 1994). Large tusks are associated with older bulls, not only because elephant tusks grow throughout their lives (Pilgram & Western, 1986) but also because they grow faster towards the latter half of a bull’s life (Laws, 1966; Spinage, 1994). Younger elephant bulls’ tusks increase in weight at 2g per day, i.e. 730g per year. In older bulls, as the tusk pulp cavity fills, the increase in weight accelerates towards the end of the bull’s life (Spinage, 1994).
We do not yet fully understand the genetic mechanisms of tusk size, which impact its heritability. Also, it is essential to clarify that there will always be individual physiological differences within any population. The ageing process (and its effects on reproductive potential) will never be the same for two individual male elephants. This is also true of elephant populations living in different parts of the continent, exposed to various environmental factors and, most importantly, consuming different diets.
Tusker populations fluctuate over time but appear, based on anecdotal feedback, to be diminishing as individuals pass away due to poaching, trophy hunting, natural causes, and human-wildlife conflict.
Emerging tuskers – young elephants with the potential to become tuskers later in life – add further complexities. Some experts provided specific emerging tusker numbers, while others said that emerging tuskers were too many to count. While some are on the brink of becoming tuskers, their exact numbers are difficult to determine, and their graduation to “tusker or super tusker” status cannot be readily estimated. Therefore, emerging tuskers add another uncertain variable to the estimation project. Our estimate above excludes emerging tuskers.
Craig, famous tusker of Amboseli National Park, Kenya
Tuskers – a proportional perspective
Understanding proportional representation within broader elephant populations is critical when assessing tusker populations. For example, the Amboseli ecosystem in Kenya, with a population of ~2,000 elephants, hosts approximately ten tuskers. By contrast, Tsavo’s ~16,000-strong population supports eight tuskers. Amboseli’s higher proportional representation highlights its unique conservation value and the importance of protecting that ecosystem. Kruger National Park hosts ~27,500 elephants, and their recorded tuskers stand at 26, with an additional five large female tuskers who do not fit the 100-pound category.
Threats to the survival of tuskers
Tuskers face numerous threats, including human-wildlife conflict, trophy hunting and poaching, often before they reach their breeding prime. While older tuskers (45–50 years and above) have typically contributed significantly to their population’s genetic diversity, younger tuskers targeted by poachers and trophy hunters represent a more significant genetic loss. The removal of breeding-age elephants with large tusks imposes a selection pressure against genes favouring large tusks, potentially diminishing the occurrence of tuskers over time.
Elephant populations across Africa are in decline, with habitat loss, human-wildlife conflict, and poaching driving their numbers downward. A recent study highlighted these challenges, underscoring the urgency of protecting tuskers and the overall elephant population.
Tuskers are living symbols of resilience, but their continued survival depends on collective action. Protecting them requires addressing systemic issues, from better record-keeping and census methods to enforcing stricter protections against poaching and unsustainable trophy hunting.
As Africa’s last giants roam the savannahs and forests, their fate rests in our hands. Their survival is not just about preserving tusker genes but about honouring the ecological legacy they represent.
Spinage, C.A., 1994. Elephants. T & A D Poyser, London.
Further reading
Amboseli’s super tuskers are down to about 10, jeopardising the integrity of the Amboseli elephant population is in jeopardy. Read more about the trophy hunting of Amboseli’s tuskers here.
Research has uncovered population density declines of 90% for forest elephants and 70% for savannah elephants across Africa in 53 years. Read more here.
AG has partnered with Tsavo Trust – an organisation that monitors the elephant populations of the Tsavo Conservation Area, specifically focusing on tuskers. It does so in close cooperation with the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) and research and conservation partners. Read more about how you can help us save Tsavo’s tuskers here.
The need to protect large-tusked and potentially large-tusked elephants from poaching and excessive selective hunting pressure is more apparent than ever as the progressive decrease in average tusk size over the past three decades is potentially leading to over-exploitation of older bulls. Read more here.
Searching for super tuskers? We spotted three of these legendary elephants in one safari trip – read how we did it here.
Two decades of photographing and writing about Africa, while deeply entrenched in her wilderness. Thirteen countries and countless moments spent falling deeper in love with the continent, its wild places, and its people. That’s what inspired Scott Ramsay’s latest book, Spirit of Africa.
“Wild Africa taught me to be effortlessly immersed in the present moment,” says Ramsay. His book celebrates the human spirit and is a call to protect and expand Africa’s wilderness in an increasingly industrialised world.
This personal and visually stunning work features evocative images and heartfelt writing, taking readers to some of Africa’s last wild places. Ramsay’s anecdotes and conservation stories highlight the wonder of Africa’s landscapes, wildlife, and people. Below, we feature a collection of Ramsay’s photos, thoughts and anecdotes on what inspired Spirit of Africa – in his own words.
Sacred Africa
“It’s an immeasurable privilege to be alive and healthy on this wondrous planet, in the company of Earth’s astonishing biodiversity. If you become fully conscious of this fact, it can alter your thinking and behaviour 180 degrees.
Boundless. Shashe River, Botswana and Zimbabwe, photographed from Mapungubwe National Park in South Africa. “This image strikes a deep psychological chord because it represents Africa from long ago. These elephants are moving across national boundaries, from Botswana into Zimbabwe across the Shashe River, doing something they have been doing for millions of years. The sense of freedom in this photo inspires me”
I want to inspire people to see African wilderness in a new way: as not just a collection of parks and reserves where people go on holiday and where animals are protected (which is, of course, amazing and essential). I want to inspire people to go into African wilderness and connect with the spiritual side of it. It can’t be quantified, but I try to explain its impact on me in Spirit of Africa. Conservation isn’t just about protecting animals and landscapes – it’s about conserving beauty, wonder, awe and freedom. It’s about conserving our human spirit, sanity, and joy.
Ultimately, to be alive and healthy on this planet and to witness all these incredible animals and landscapes can be a deeply recalibrating experience. Perhaps, as a result, they will see African wilderness as I see it – priceless and sacred.
It was a series of moments that shaped my love of African wilderness and inspired Spirit of Africa: Camping in the Kalahari on my own for two weeks. Encountering a bull elephant on foot in Mana Pools. Sleeping under the stars of north-west Namibia. Listening to the chorus of frogs and hippos at night alongside the Zambezi River. Walking a wilderness trail in Imfolozi and watching three white rhinos come down to drink in front of us. Swimming in rock pools in the Aberdare Mountains in Kenya. Sitting alone with a young lowland gorilla in the Congo. Sleeping near a cave covered in Bushmen paintings in the Drakensberg. Bumping into a black rhino in a thunderstorm while on a trail in the Lowveld. Swimming with gully sharks in the icy waters of the Cape. My memory is full of such moments. And the love affair goes on
It’s not just about Africa’s wild animals. The spirit of the people is as powerful. I often make friends with local people in Africa who have so little materially, but are so rich in spirit and kindness. I once met a Datoga woman in Tanzania who seemed to turn a light on inside of me. She couldn’t speak English, but somehow, her spirit shone straight into me. There’s an undeniable energy in Africa that permeates not only its landscapes but also its people. It’s why I included people in this book. The spirit of Africa enriches every human who steps on its soil.
Before the king. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. “I spent a few days with guide Stretch Ferreira in Mana Pools. Stretch has walked these floodplains for over 30 years and knows many of the resident bulls, and they know him. It’s a scary yet transcendental experience to be in the close company of a big bull elephant”Butterfly People. Samburu County, Kenya. “The spirit of Africa gave birth to the spirit of our humanity. I love photographing Africa’s people as much as I enjoy photographing its landscapes and wildlife”Dreamland. Nouabalé-Ndoki National Park, Congo-Brazzaville. “Wali Baï is a small, beautiful shallow lake in Nouabalé-Ndoki National Park, Congo-Brazaville, surrounded by forest. I spent the night there on a small wooden, raised platform. It happened to be full moon, and I spent most of the night watching bull elephants come into the lake to feed on minerals in the substrate. In the early hours of the morning, a thick mist rolled in. The moonlight cast a luminous glow across this astonishing scene”
Plugging into ‘the source’
I didn’t want to make a book that was just pretty pictures with innocuous captions. The human world, in most places, seems to be in a big mess, and people are struggling with mental and spiritual issues. Major wars are going on, but the biggest war is the one humans have been waging on Mother Earth since the agricultural revolution. We are living in an era of immense ecocide, and the impact on our human psyches is massive. I wanted to address this theme in the book. We all seek meaning in our lives and find it in different ways. In my case, African wilderness gave my life meaning. I felt like a caged animal when I worked in the corporate world. That life suits many people, and I respect that, but it wasn’t for me. I felt so disconnected from my body, my mind, and my spirit.
When I left that world and started exploring Africa’s wild places as a photojournalist, it was like I had been plugged directly back into the source. I had loads of energy, I was happier than ever, I was more patient, I was calm. I felt like I had been released back into my natural habitat. Everything seemed to flow again. Looking back, I think it was simply the incredibly beautiful and wild environments that rewired my brain and neural pathways.
Consolation. KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. “The rangers in Zululand in South Africa have a tough job. They protect one of the largest black and white rhino populations in Africa, but poachers run rife. This black rhino calf was orphaned when her mother was killed. These two rangers kept watch through the night and consoled the young rhino by talking and stroking its back”Stealth. Lower Zambezi National Park, Zambia. “For me, this image epitomises leopards. A blur of camouflaged dots moving in crepuscular light, elusive, intentional and ghostly”Fortunate. Lower Zambezi National Park, Zambia. “I was doing a shoot for Conservation Lower Zambezi in Zambia, and late one night, the rangers came to my tent to tell me they had rescued a pangolin from poachers. They asked me to quickly take a photo before they released it back into the wildThe opening. Odzala-Kokoua National Park, Congo-Brazzaville. “Lango Baï is a clearing in the Congo rain forest in Odzala-Kokoua National Park, Congo-Brazzaville. A pristine place where it’s possible to sense the origins of the very first primates, our ancestors”
Ancient rituals of Africa
Our human spirit comes from Africa. We evolved for millions of years in Africa, and our bodies, minds – and I suggest, our spirits – are designed by and for Africa. We have populated the rest of the world, but Africa remains our original home. The spirit of the land still thrives here, and when you live in Africa or visit Africa, you reconnect with your human essence.
When you sit around a small campfire in an African wilderness area, under the stars, and listen to lions roaring nearby, you are conducting a ritual that connects you with tens of thousands of generations of your ancestors. That shouldn’t be underestimated. If we lose the wild animals and the wild landscapes, we will lose our human essence.
Humans need to experience awe and vulnerability regularly. A regular sense of awe and vulnerability undergirds a spiritual, meaningful life. And wild Africa still offers us this awe and shared vulnerability.
Ancient. Solio Game Reserve, Kenya. “Solio Game Reserve is one of the last strongholds of white rhinos in East Africa. There are few more magnificent sights than a crash of rhinos”Cobra Kepile. Makgadikgadi Pans, Botswana. “Cobra is a Shuakwe Bushman, one of the last authentic Bushmen. He is one of the most ecologically intelligent people I have met. I spent a few days with him in central Botswana. He lives by fundamental needs. These needs are water, food, shelter, community and fire. Anthropologists generally agree that these are the only things humans need for happiness. Much of the developed world is overloaded with unnecessary distractions and excessive consumerism. Is it any wonder that most people are struggling with mental health issues like depression and anxiety?”One with ocean. Quirimbas Archipelago, Mozambique. “I photographed this diver from a helicopter as we flew from the islands to the mainland. In some ways, I envied this man as he powered his way through the shallow waters, diving down for lobster every few minutes, immersed in the warm waters of Mozambique. Life isn’t physically easy for a lot of people living in Africa, but I’ve often thought that maybe it is easier for them to find meaning than those in cities and towns where modern conveniences have disconnected us from our wild origins”Outliers. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. “Africa still has the greatest number of large wild terrestrial mammals on Earth. As an African, I am exceptionally proud of Africa’s wild places and the amazing conservationists who ensure these places are protected and nurtured. We are showing the world how to conserve wilderness and wild animals, and the local people in Africa deserve a lot of credit for tolerating the presence of potentially dangerous wildlife”
Hope for a connected future
Humanity needs to learn how to share with the rest of nature. Large, connected natural habitats are the foundation of all conservation efforts.
I write about lions, pangolins and elephants and their future. Africa has amazing conservationists and communities who are doing impactful work. The significant danger is that these animals end up in parks that aren’t connected to each other, and then every park becomes a glorified zoo that has to be managed intensively. We have to ensure that wild animals can move large distances if they need to – to breed, and feed, and thrive. They need freedom, just like us.
But the people of Africa give me hope. Africa has the best and most committed conservationists on the planet. We still have the biggest numbers and diversity of wild, terrestrial fauna on the planet. Much of the world has lost most of its large mammals.
My land. Busanga Plains, Kafue National Park, Zambia. “This is an increasingly rare sight in Africa: a big male lion moving where he wants to, with the entitlement of freedom that lions deserve in Africa, yet are increasingly denied by human impacts and presence. There are fewer than 25,000 wild lions in Africa, and probably fewer than 2,500 sexually mature males”Curiosity. Mahale Mountains National Park, Tanzania. “Mahale is one of the most photogenic parks in Africa. I did a shoot for Nomad Africa, on the edge of Lake Tanganyika, and was fortunate to spend some time photographing the chimps in the forest above the lake. These chimps have formed part of the longest-running chimpanzee study in Africa, by Kyoto University in Japan”Another world. Noubale-Ndoki National Park, Congo-Brazzaville.”I took this image with a drone, with permission from Dr Claudia Stephan, the lead researcher on gorillas in Nouabale-Ndoki. She was present as I flew the drone over Mbeli Baï”Kindred. Quirimbas Archipelago, Mozambique. “Quantum physics tells us that everything is one. I have sometimes felt this for myself when immersed in African wilderness. When I dived in the Quirimbas with these dolphins, I felt like I was part of Mother Earth”
In many ways, we are showing the rest of the world how to work with local communities and ensure that humans, wild places and wild animals thrive together. It’s not a perfect picture, but it is generally better than anywhere else.
As one of my unofficial mentors, Jonathan Kingdon, wrote: ‘Africa is rich. It is the rest of the world that is poor.’
I think the world is waking up to the fact that wild, pristine nature is the foundation on which human societies thrive. And Africa has the finest diversity of wild places on the planet.”
About Scott Ramsay
Scott Ramsay’s latest book, Spirit of Africa, takes readers on an immersive journey to many of the continent’s last remaining wild places. The book includes more than 100 powerful images of stunning landscapes, teeming wildlife and beautiful people.
Scott Ramsay is a photographer, author and adventurer. He specialises in wildlife and conservation in Africa’s national parks and nature reserves, including private game reserves and community conservancies. Prior to working for himself, Scott worked on South African travel magazine Getaway, after escaping the corporate financial and marketing world. Scott also received the SAB Environmental Prize for Photography in South Africa. He is a member of the Wildlife and Environment Society and Botanical Society of South Africa. He regularly contributes photographs and stories to various magazines and online platforms. Through his work, he hopes to inspire others to experience the African wilderness for themselves – and then to stand up and speak up for this continent’s incredible wild places.
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Elephant decline + unforgettable Mara safari + 2 gorilla adventures
I have a dilemma. Our bushveld home town is growing rapidly – the same rural transformation that has taken place in so many formerly quaint villages across the country. A modern private hospital recently opened its doors, another shopping centre has broken ground, and commercial buildings are springing up everywhere. We even have a padel court!
Growth is, of course, the holy grail for happy humans, so heaven forbid I express misgivings. But along with growth comes all the other stuff, like traffic, noise, power grid and water issues, crime, and the eradication of that village feel we cherish – the very reasons we moved here from Cape Town some six years ago.
Of course, I recognise that I am part of the problem. By settling here, we added to the impetus. And I realise that my dilemma is that of a privileged person – well insulated against life below the poverty line.
OK, enough grumbling from me. The early rains I mentioned a few weeks ago have transformed the landscape into a green oasis, migratory birds have arrived, tortoises and chameleons are mobile, and the air is pregnant with the promise of more rain. Life is good!
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
As if contending with lion-hunting eagles and human super-predators weren’t enough for Africa’s big carnivores… Did you know that there is a microscopic threat that might be the most sinister puppet master of them all? Toxoplasma gondii, a parasite best known for turning rats into cat-chasers, has been pulling some pretty deadly strings in hyena cubs in Kenya’s Maasai Mara over the years, causing them to self-sacrifice themselves to lions.
Hyena cubs infected with the parasite boldly stroll right up to lions – their mortal enemies – essentially volunteering as dinner. Why? Because T. gondii can only reproduce inside felids. Yes, this single-celled schemer manipulates its hosts into self-sacrifice to hitch a ride to its preferred breeding ground. A three-decade-long study found infected hyena cubs were far likelier to die at the mouth of a lion than their uninfected peers. Who knew the circle of life had an MVP with such ominous finesse?
This week, we take a photo journey with Kathy West into unforgettable Maasai Mara, and break down the worrying study currently doing the rounds that shows major declines in elephant population density across Africa.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
This Rwandan gorilla-trekking adventure will take you through pristine afro-montane forests packed with golden monkeys, colourful Rwenzori turacos, and prehistoric three-horned chameleons. And, of course, the star of your safari is a silverback mountain gorilla, accompanied by his family – spotted in the depths of paradise. Trekking for gorillas is described by many as a life-changing experience. This is one not to be missed.
Lowland gorillas in Odzala-Kokoua NP, Congo-Brazzaville – 8 days – from US$3,910pps
Go beyond the safari norm to explore remote areas off the beaten path. Join us to find western lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffalos, bongos, dwarf crocodiles, huge flocks of grey parrots and green pigeons, and other iconic wildlife species. See all of these specials in the forests, baïs and rivers of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote northwest of Congo-Brazzaville.
Mark and Elaine Patterson from Australia recently embarked on an epic 23-day AG safari adventure. Their journey included Maasai Mara National Reserve in Kenya, a visit to the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, gorilla trekking in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park, and a Big-5 safari in Greater Kruger. In Cape Town, they enjoyed wine tasting, whale watching, and exploring the Cape Peninsula. Their unforgettable trip concluded with a serene island retreat in Mauritius. Here’s what they had to say about their experience:
Amazing Africa– “Just had an amazing trip to Africa that AG put together for us, based on a list of things that we wanted to see and do. They did it all and did an amazing job that exceeded our expectations all the way. Four countries, three safaris, flights, transfers, guides and drivers, over 3.5 weeks – and everything went to plan with no issues. Phenomenal job Christian, AG and team!” – Mark Patterson
WATCH: A pack of hungry wild dogs with a large litter of pups to feed, scavenging hyenas, and an intense standoff – right outside the front door of Tinswalo’s Manor House. Watch this incredible scene play out in Manyeleti Game Reserve, Greater Kruger. (11:41) Click here to watch
After 11 years since her last African sojourn, primatologist Kathy West revisits the iconic Maasai Mara on an AG safari. From Sentinel Mara Camp’s sustainability to intimate wildlife encounters, her journey highlights the profound connection between conservation, photography, and the wild beauty of Africa.
It had been 11 years since I had been on my first safari. I’ve travelled to many places since that trip to Tanzania, including South and Central America, the Galapagos, Madagascar, Mexico, and Uganda. Still, few things fill me with the same contentment and happiness as being in the large expanses of the savannah and wooded hillsides of Serengeti National Park and the Maasai Mara National Reserve, with their enormous biodiversity. This past June, flying in low over the Musiara Airstrip, I caught a glimpse of a herd of giraffes, and I felt a deep sense of gratification that I could return to this incredible place.
As a conservation photographer and primatologist, I spent months researching and looking for the perfect opportunity for a photo safari for myself and my husband. I was excited when I found this incredible opportunity with Africa Geographic. AG director Christian Boix arranged a magical 7-day trip for us at Sentinel Mara Camp on the banks of the Mara River. He carefully considered my requests to have a safari where we could have slow-paced drives to look at a diversity of animals, from insects to birds to elephants, explore interesting natural areas, and have plenty of time to watch and wait for an opportunity to take creative photographs. I wanted to go out just before dawn each morning and stay out all day until sunset, with a packed breakfast and lunch. My goal was to have many animals and few people, and I was grateful that we were able to experience that in the peaceful and elegant Sentinel Mara Camp. Everything was beautifully planned and executed, and the camp itself was perfect.
A young elephant calf stays close to its motherA cheetah surveys its surroundings in the Musiara Marsh area of Maasai MaraA Coke’s hartebeest posse on the plains
The perfect plan and the perfect guide
As a conservation photographer, I am committed to viewing wildlife and taking photos in the least intrusive and disruptive way possible. I appreciate the patience of ‘the wait’ and the enjoyment of watching an animal for long periods. To get the most honest image of the true nature of an animal, one must be nearly invisible, silent, patient, and respectful. If there is ever a question about my presence having a negative impact, I always choose the safety and stress level of the animal, and I will leave without “the shot.”
With my background in animal behaviour and desire to have a patient and understanding guide, I couldn’t have asked for a more perfect match than our Maasai guide, Benson Muli. We found a like-minded companion in Benson. We shared a mutual respect for wildlife and a belief in good ethics as visitors to the animal’s habitat, and we had many deep conversations about conservation. I was so impressed with Benson’s knowledge of all the animals, his ability to spot and predict their movements and behaviour, and his sense of knowing where to put me in the perfect position for my photographs. He consistently demonstrated strong ethics in respecting the animals, patience with my requests, excellence in driving and navigating the Mara, and kindness towards other guides and drivers. Benson also demonstrated impressive diplomacy with the rangers and wardens and high ethics in always putting the animals’ welfare above everything else. I learned so much from him and greatly appreciated his professionalism, knowledge, and insights.
Benson Muli sets up a sumptuous lunch
Celebrating the primates of Mara
I can happily watch primates for hours on end. We had some wonderful moments with a baboon troop just up the river from camp – settling into a large tree for the night, fighting on a precariously high branch, seeing juveniles being scolded and throwing temper tantrums with fear grimaces, and sweet, relaxed family moments of grooming and simply looking lovely in the early evening surrounded by tall flaxen grasses, shining in the setting sun.
Kathy’s party spent hours watching baboons on their safari
A new love for buffalo
I have entirely changed my perception of Cape buffalo. Previously, I thought they were just slow-moving, behaviorally and intellectually dull animals. I now know that I was wrong on all counts!
We had the opportunity to watch many buffaloes outsmart and outmanoeuvre hunting lions individually and when coordinating within the herd. I was impressed with how strategic they could be and how wise and caring they were for their herd members, willing to risk their own lives to help out a trapped member.
A buffalo chases lions away from his herd
A magnificent Mara tower
From the moment that Benson picked us up at the airstrip to our return a week later, we were honoured to get to know a giraffe family based near the camp. The drive from Musiara airstrip to Sentinel Camp is only a short distance. Still, we began our safari the moment we arrived, and we spent hours watching these giraffes socialise, neck, forage, and move with their incredibly graceful gait.
We were happy to begin our safari this way and were in no hurry to reach camp when we could watch the giraffe – lunch could wait! Each day had moments with this family, which included two adorable calves – we saw the family in the misty sunrises and golden sunsets necking, affectionately rubbing heads, mounting, foraging, and ‘flehming’ (an interesting lip curl that allows smells to reach the vomeronasal organ on the roof of their mouth which analyses the level of hormones in the female’s urine). We enjoyed every moment with them, getting to know each individual deeper. My favourite was the two-month-old calf with fuzzy pompoms on top of its ossicones.
Kathy spent a lot of time with a local giraffe herd
Lion cub antics and impressive kills
Returning 3 times over 2 days to a hippo carcass allowed us to watch a story of predators and prey and the stages of reducing a 1,800 kg animal to clean bones and rubbery skin. Subadult male lions one morning, females and cubs in the afternoon and hyenas, vultures, and jackals the following morning quickly consumed the hippo. Watching the young cubs experiment with chewing on the exposed tendons and strings of muscle was fun. Still young enough to be nursing, they were not very serious about getting nutrition from the carcass, but experimented with feeding between bouts of play. There were also several interesting social interactions where one of the youngest cubs was “asking” an older sibling to feed in a choice spot, getting reprimanded, showing a wide range of submissive postures and facial expressions, and finally receiving “permission” to feed.
On another occasion, we found ourselves within meters of a pride of lions feeding on a freshly killed buffalo. It gave us the experience of hearing (and feeling through the deep sounds) the grumbling, growling, and crunching sounds of feeding. This image was taken as we left the area – a lioness had eaten her fill and had fallen asleep with the animal’s leg as a pillow.
An exhausted and sated lioness falls asleep in the embrace of her buffalo kill
Drama on the marsh
Our last evening found us with the Marsh Pride on a fresh buffalo kill. About 500m away, we saw that a buffalo had just given birth and was going with the new calf towards her herd. Unfortunately, between herself and her herd was the entire Marsh Pride of 8 lions; behind her were many hyenas and jackals, and the herd was still a long distance away. The next 1.5 hours unveiled interesting strategies and behaviours from the buffalo, lions, hyenas, and jackals. In the end, the newborn calf and the mother buffalo were killed – emotionally difficult to watch, but a rare opportunity to capture images of a multi-species drama unfolding.
Hyenas, next to a herd of buffalo, all watching the lions guarding the buffalo femaleA lion carries off the buffalo calf kill
Birds, birds everywhere
The Mara has an exceptional diversity of bird species, and Benson was extremely knowledgeable about his bird identification, behaviours, and sightings. We were happy to take our time if we saw a bird, and he would help identify the species as I was able to capture images of birds on nests, with chicks, in the last evening light, foraging, parents returning to little ones on the nest, and raptors with prey. With Benson’s help, we got to know special locations to check as we came and went from camp, adding to the feeling of coming home on the Mara.
A white-backed vulture looks on at a buffalo killA grey-crowned crane hunting during the golden hourYellow-billed oxpecker heads out on its morning round
We had many magical moments. We watched grey-crowned cranes hunting in the golden sunset with their crowns lighting up with gold. We witnessed four predation events (my husband kept score like a football match – “cheetahs 1, impalas 1”; “buffalos 3, lions 4”). We enjoyed many hours of watching lions hunt and sleep and cubs play. And we had the privilege of watching the Marsh Pride walk right next to our vehicle.
A cheetah attempts to take down an impala ram
On one occasion, a lion being chased by a buffalo burst out of the bushes just meters away and ran right at us – not frightening, but definitely exciting. We spent quite some time watching the fascinating behaviours of a herd of zebra – affection, challenges, and fighting.
Zebra males pushing and fighting in the herd
We also enjoyed breakfast by a river, with elephants grazing on the far side and hippos below us. We were served elegant meals alongside the vehicle with bright tablecloths, delicious food and incredible scenery. And Benson was an attentive waiter for our every need.
Kathy and other Sentinel guests enjoying lunch together as new friendsBurns on the horizon make a dramatic backdrop for a herd of elephants
Sentinel Mara Camp
You can’t ask for a more stunning setting in a quiet and peaceful forest, just two minutes away from sunrise views of giraffes, elephants, cheetahs, buffalo, hippos, impala, eland, topi, dik-diks, serval, vervet monkeys, baboons, and lions. That was all just in our “backyard”!
The sustainable camp is run entirely on solar power. I appreciated all of the incredible details – from an utterly plastic-free camp to so many small comforts in the spacious tent, to our fantastic helper Jonathon, who cleaned our tent impeccably every day while we were out, tailored our showers to exactly our preferred temperature, took care of our laundry, and made sure we had our coffee and biscuits at the early hour we needed them to get on the trail before sunrise. Each meal, whether a picnic on the road or an elegant meal in camp, was delicious, and we were impressed with every person’s attentiveness to our preferences and dietary restrictions.
The sunset view from Sentinal Mara
Each morning, when we climbed in the vehicle for our chilly start to the day, we’d find hot water bottles and a warm Maasai blanket on our seats. We started our day so cosy and comfortable.
One fun event at Camp was how the staff surprised us with a celebration for our wedding anniversary. We were the only ones in the camp that evening, and while we were enjoying the fire pit and the hippos softly grunting, we suddenly heard chanting coming out of the dark. The staff treated us to traditional Maasai chanting, singing, and dancing as they surrounded the fire and presented us with a special anniversary cake. An unforgettable experience!
Sentinel Mara is an eco-camp set up in a forest on the Mara RiverBreakfast overlooking the river at Sentinel Mara
Further reading
This interesting introduction to Kenya’s Maasai Mara will have you contacting Africa Geographic to book your next African safari. For all there is to know about Maasai Mara, read here.
Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp in Mara North Conservancy is designed with photographers in mind – ideal for an epic Kenyan photographic safari. Read more here.
See Ivan Glaser’s safari report-back and gallery, detailing his journey in the Maasai Mara with professional photographer Arnfinn Johansen and Africa Geographic. Check it out here.
About Kathy West
Kathy West is a wildlife conservation photographer, primatologist and educator. Kathy has spent her career finding ways to support conservation and communicate biodiversity’s distinctive beauty and incredible richness worldwide. Concerned about the primate extinction crisis, she founded Photography Inspiring Children in Conservation (PICC), teaching photography and sustainable capacity in conservation-compatible careers to youth in Africa and Central America. PICC empowers people in habitat-critical communities to support local ecosystem conservation and inspires children to become conservation leaders within their communities. The programme provides youths with skills, knowledge, and a passion for conservation through the arts of photography, illustration, and storytelling. Kathy hopes to help children directly impact the survival of a species by building a special emotional connection and knowledge of conservation actions they can take to build a healthy community where both the wildlife and their community can thrive.
In June and July 2024, the PICC projects included school children and conservation partners in Musanze/Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda; students and conservation youth in Buhoma-Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda; and students and conservation youth in Rwenshama, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda.
A pioneering study over five decades and 475 survey sites reveals dramatic declines in Africa’s elephant population densities – 90% for forest elephants and 70% for savannah elephants. Despite widespread losses, localised gains offer hope for their conservation future.
A ground-breaking study has used over half a century of data to track changes in the population density of forest and savannah elephants at more than 400 survey sites across Africa. The study found that the average decline across the sites was 90% for forest elephants and 70% for savannah elephants.
The study’s authors evaluated 53 years’ worth of data gathered during more than 1,300 surveys of both critically endangered forest elephants (Loxodonta cyclotis) and endangered savannah elephants (Loxodonta africana) at hundreds of sites in 37 countries, from Benin to Zimbabwe.
“We’re pretty confident that the decline we’ve measured with the data that we have is pretty representative of what’s going on [across the continent],” says Charles Edwards, an independent statistical consultant and coauthor of the study, which was published in Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences (PNAS).
Edwards says that poaching and the expansion of farming and other human activities into former elephant habitats have driven the decline. “It’s the usual mix of poaching and habitat loss.”
Forest elephant densities averaged a 90% decline across survey sites
Because of the different methods used by different teams of people in various countries over more than five decades, be it aerial surveys to count savannah elephants or ground surveys and transect counts for forest elephants, Edwards and his colleagues used a statistical model to sift through all this variable data and work out changes in population density at each of the 475 different survey sites in Southern, Central, West and East Africa.
According to Edwards, this helped to create “a more complete picture” of what has been happening to elephants across the continent beyond simply counting them to work out their abundance.
“Everyone wants to know how many elephants there are now and how that is different from how many there were 100 years ago,” he says. But calculating elephant abundance alone provides insight into the trends of the largest populations while leaving gaps in our knowledge about areas where there are smaller ones.
Abundance estimates are also subject to bias. For instance, if survey area sizes change from one year to the next, the number of elephants counted can be altered, even if their abundance hasn’t actually changed. This can give a false impression of either growth or decline in populations.
“You get these artefacts [artificial signals] in the data that make it look like a population change in abundance, even when there might not be, but if you look instead at the density of elephants, then you’re more likely to get an understanding of the trend in elephants that is independent of the survey area size.”
The data for forest elephants was gleaned from 150 sites surveyed between 1974–2015; the data for savannah elephants came from 375 sites surveyed from 1964–2016. Despite the grim overall picture of widespread declines these presented, there were some positive findings.
In Southern Africa, for example, 42% of the sites surveyed registered increases in population density (of just under 1% per site per year on average) over the period of the study. Southern Africa hosts the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (TFCA), which covers nearly 520,000 square kilometres and incorporates dozens of parks and game reserves across Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe. The last census in 2022 estimates the number of savannah elephants in this area at nearly 228,000.
Ten percent of sites in East Africa registered increases, including the Serengeti and the Moyowosi-Kigosi Game Reserve in Tanzania, the Amboseli National Park and the Maasai Mara National Reserve in Kenya, and the Jonglei ecosystem in South Sudan.
In West Africa, the study registered increases at 3% of sites where forest elephants live: the Pendjari National Park in Benin and three sites in Burkina Faso that included Arly National Park.
“Our results tell us that if well protected and managed, elephant populations can still increase despite increasing pressures surrounding them and their habitats,” Fiona Maisels, a study coauthor, said in a press statement.
Elephant researcher Timothy O’Connor, from the University of Witwatersrand, who was not involved in the study, praised its “rigorous statistical analysis” and “clear-cut conclusions”.
“The paper is another timely reminder that elephants are not doing well, but the nuance is that their dramatic decline is not universal across Africa,” he says.
“Most Southern African populations are stable or increasing slightly, whereas East African or West African populations, and forest elephants, have declined ultra-alarmingly.”
O’Connor, who recently published research on the impact an 11,000-strong elephant population is having on native forests and woodlands in Zimbabwe’s Gonarezhou National Park, says that while the PNAS study’s continent-wide picture offers clarity on elephant declines, it should not be seen as a management aid.
An elephant in Amboseli National Park, Kenya
“The fact that savannah elephants are – or have been – declining dramatically in West Africa does not influence what is done in Zimbabwe where elephant populations are, overall, thriving,” he says.
“A country is expected to approach the management of elephants in terms of its specific challenges and needs.”
The PNAS study’s authors acknowledge that most of the data they relied on were obtained through surveys conducted in protected areas. This means declines in some regions may have been underestimated by not capturing the loss of unprotected populations.
And although the survey data spans over half a century, that is only equivalent to the single life of a long-lived elephant. This means that no insight into longer-term trends is offered.
“We don’t know what happened [to elephant density] prior to 1960,” says Edwards. “We have a lot of anecdotal information, but it’s different from everywhere – some places it might be going up, prior to 1960, some places it was getting hammered.”
The data analyst says he hopes his team’s methodology can be used to examine other species across vast areas in similarly variable numbers.
“Elephants have been in trouble for a long time,” says Edwards. “I wasn’t necessarily surprised by the result [that shows this], but it was interesting to me to establish a way of looking at it across the continent.”
There is some good news: there are more forest elephants in Gabon than previously believed. Read more about Gabon’s first countrywide elephant population estimate in 30 years here.
A new study from Kibale has laid the groundwork for distinguishing between forest/savannah elephant hybrids and different elephant species. Read more about Kibale’s hybrid elephants here.
How do elephants move across southern Africa through protected areas and beyond? New research explores the value of habitat connectivity. Check it out here.
Does the hunting of elephant bulls with large tusks lead to the decline of Africa’s tuskers? We examine the science here.
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THE Zanzibar to-do list + miombo, elephants & carbon markets
Are humans capable of SUSTAINABLY harvesting a commons or state-owned resource?
This lengthy report on the destruction of the Southern Cape forests in South Africa by European superpowers in premodern history is hardly easy to read, but it is an interesting case study of how rubbish we are as a species at reining in greed and waste when a natural ‘resource’ is there for the taking.
Some of the harvesting strategies described in the report make no sense – but that was then. These days, we have learned our lessons and do things differently. All extraction of hardwood, minerals, free-ranging wildlife and fish (to name a few) is based on scientifically determined quotas, transparency and fair compensation for local people. Right?
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
The lion may be king of the beasts, but one rival reigns supreme when it comes to inspiring fear: humans. Did you know that wildlife fear the human super-predator more than anything else? A study in Greater Kruger revealed that 95% of species ran more from humans than they did from lions. Using speaker systems to broadcast human voices, lion growls, dogs barking, gunshots and bird calls, researchers recorded the reactions of 19 mammals. The findings are striking – animals fled and abandoned waterholes 40% faster when hearing humans, compared to lions. This fear isn’t merely about survival; it triggers cascading ecological effects, influencing everything from animal behaviour to plant life.
This is a double-edged sword. A fear of humans could deter animals from venturing into conflict-prone areas. But, it complicates tourism-dependent conservation efforts: human presence can disrupt ecosystems. How do we ensure our legacy is one of preservation and not devastation?
Planning a trip to Zanzibar? We’ve put together the ultimate Zanzibar to-do list for your safari. Plus, Africa’s miombo woodlands are amazing at carbon sequestration – we explore why we should be conserving them. Check out these stories below.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Dreaming of your bucket-list Botswana or Vic Falls safari? Or how about a true bush & beach classic safari to Tanzania? Check out the epic safaris below, or let our travel team help you plan your dream safari
This iconic safari combines the wildlife riches of Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park in Botswana with the awe-inspiring majesty of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. First, you’ll visit Khwai to get your predator fix, then move on to Chobe to witness massive herds of elephants and other wildlife along the banks of the Chobe River. Last but not least, the grand finale: witnessing the mighty Zambezi River plunging into the misty gorges below at iconic Victoria Falls.
Classic Tanzania: bush & beach safari – 10 days – from US$6,509pps
Discover Tanzania’s popular northern safari circuit, including Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti National Park, and the idyllic serene beaches of Zanzibar. This safari offers you a seamless introduction to the wonders of a Tanzanian bush and island retreat. Immerse yourself in these iconic locations whilst exploring diverse landscapes and rich culture. This classic driving safari takes you to the heart of it all, with the added pleasure of staying in time-honoured luxury camps.
Vanessa and Thomas Kress from the Netherlands recently spent 11 days exploring Malawi with AG. They enjoyed the wildlife and landscapes of Majete, Liwonde and Nkhotakota, and spent time relaxing on the beaches of Lake Malawi at Senga. They loved their safari so much that they have already booked their next AG safari to Rwanda! Here’s what they had to say about their experience:
Best of Malawi in 8 days – “What an incredible trip! We are experienced travellers of Southern African and wanted to see something new. We chose Malawi on the recommendation of AG and it was certainly no disappointment. We visited 3 parks, met interesting people, learned a lot about Malawi and experienced some wonders of nature – such as a boat trip on the Shire River. It was well worth it! Thank you AG for looking after us during the whole trip! We surely will book again.” – Vanessa Kress
WATCH: Across Africa, on the boundaries of nature reserves where protected areas meet human settlements, human-elephant conflict is on the rise. Elephant Shepherd Units pioneered by Elephants Alive are the first line of action in peacefully dissolving human-elephant conflict. Safeguarding wandering elephants and fostering coexistence with communities, the Elephant Shepherds are the connection between animal and human. Mediating interactions with skill, understanding and knowledge, they educate communities living with elephants on a daily basis. Learn more about the Elephant Shepherds. (01:32) Click here to watch
Zanzibar, Tanzania’s enchanting archipelago, is a fascinating destination punctuated by idyllic beaches, vibrant culture, and rich history – the ultimate safari finale. With Zanzibar’s intricate biodiversity, beautiful landscapes, and various museums, historical and natural sites, and multiple adventure activities, planning your itinerary can be overwhelming.
To help you make the most of your visit, here’s the ultimate Zanzibar to-do list, featuring must-see destinations and unforgettable experiences. A visit to Zanzibar is also perfectly paired with a Tanzania mainland safari. Read more about Tanzania’s safari circuits here.
Snorkelling in Zanzibar’s crystal-clear waters
Beach bliss and water adventures in Zanzibar
Zanzibar’s beaches are a significant part of its allure, offering soft white sands and crystal-clear waters perfect for relaxation and adventure. The island’s coastal offerings are irresistible, from water sports to whiling hours away on tranquil shores.
Paddleboarding on Zanzibar’s azure ocean
1. Relax on Nungwi Beach
Nungwi Beach, on the northern tip of Zanzibar, is famous for its sunsets and soft sandy shores. Unwind in the sun, swim in the warm waters, or enjoy beachside dining with fresh seafood. Alternatively, opt for a more adventurous water activity to get your muscles moving
Heading out for a paddleboard session at Nungwi Beach
2. Go scuba diving in the Zanzibar Archipelago
Zanzibar’s coastal underwater world is a diver’s paradise. Various diving sites along Zanzibar’s coral reefs allow divers to explore vibrant coral gardens and spot fascinating marine life, including turtles and colourful fish.
Experience vivid corals and ocean life while snorkelling
3. Go snorkelling at Mnemba Atoll
For those not keen on scuba diving, snorkelling at Mnemba Atoll offers an equally captivating glimpse into Zanzibar’s underwater world. With clear waters teeming with tropical fish and corals, it’s a fantastic experience for snorkellers of all levels.
The view of Mnemba Island while heading out to snorkel its underwater delights
4. Visit Jambiani Beach for kite surfing and sailing
Known for its consistent winds, Jambiani Beach is an ideal spot for kite surfing or sailing. Beginners can take kite surfing lessons, while experienced riders will head straight into enjoying the thrill of riding the waves. Or, opt for sailing on a traditional wooden dhow over the waves for a new perspective.
5. Explore Paje Beach
Soft sands, clear waters, and one of the best beaches for sunbathing and swimming – what more could you want? Paje Beach is one of Zanzibar’s most idyllic beaches, and visitors can also rent a paddleboard or kayak for a leisurely day on the water.
The white sands of Paje Beach
6. Visit untouched Uzi Island
Uzi island is quite untouched and most of the Uzi people are fishermen. The island is dense with mangroves, banana plantations and huge mango trees. You can only reach Uzi Island by boat or at low tide when the only road to the island surfaces.
Cultural experiences and must-visit wildlife spots of Zanzibar
Zanzibar’s rich culture makes it an exceptional destination for enlightenment and the taste buds! Immerse yourself in the local culture with these must-do options
7. Explore Stone Town
Stone Town, a World Heritage Site, is the cultural heart of Zanzibar, featuring narrow, winding, cobbled streets and historical architecture. Spend a day wandering through its bustling bazaars, studying its intricate doorways, visiting historic sites, and sampling local cuisine. Or for a truly unique experience, head out in Stone Town at night to watch as the town changes face and people come out to socialise, enjoy coffee and play board games in the street.
Take a walk through Stone Town’s intricate historical streets
9. Visit the Zanzibar Butterfly Centre
This conservation project focuses on breeding and protecting Zanzibar’s native butterfly species. A stroll through the lush gardens will allow you to witness the beauty of the delicate Lepidoptera up close while learning about their life cycles and habitats.
The Forodhani Gardens are found in a beautiful seaside park, perfect for a light stroll. At sunset, the area transforms into a lively food market where you can sample local delicacies – from Zanzibari pizza to grilled seafood.
10. Learn about (and indulge in) the spice trade
Zanzibar is known as the “Spice Island,” and a spice tour is a mesmerising experience. Explore plantations, learn about the history of spice trading, and indulge in the scents, flavours and colours of local spices like cloves, nutmeg, and vanilla.
Zanzibar offers a world of spices
Unique activities and scenic adventures
From thrilling outdoor adventures to unforgettable views, Zanzibar offers plenty of out-of-the-ordinary activities that showcase the island’s beauty and charm.
11. Go on a sunset dhow cruise
A traditional dhow cruise is an excellent way to relax and enjoy the stunning coastal scenery. With options for private or group cruises, you can enjoy the sunset while sipping drinks on the water.
To see Zanzibar’s unique side, visit its colourful seaweed farms in Paje. Here, you can watch as local women harvest seaweed. Seaweed is an essential part of the island’s local economy and is a sustainable industry supporting many families. While in Paje, you can also visit Maalum Cave and swim in the natural sweet water swimming pool here – a refreshing nature experience.
13. Take a day trip to Pemba Island
Pemba Island offers a quieter, traditional Zanzibari experience away from the crowds. Be inspired by Pemba’s lush landscapes, beautiful coral reefs, and cultural sites like the Pujini ruins. You can also visit some of the smaller islands around Pemba, such as Njao Island. Pemba is perfect for travellers seeking adventure with a dash of serenity.
Njao Island, off the coast of Pemba Island
14. Visit Prison Island
A short boat ride from Stone Town, Prison Island offers a glimpse into Zanzibar’s history and the opportunity to see giant tortoises. Explore the old prison ruins, snorkel in the clear waters, and relax on the beach.
A giant tortoise of Prison Island
15. Explore the Jozani Forest Reserve
Home to red colobus monkeys, Jozani Forest is a must-visit for wildlife lovers. Guided walks through the forest allow you to learn about the flora and fauna of the island while enjoying the tranquillity of nature.
Red colobus monkeys in Jozani Forest
16. Do a mangrove tour
To witness a different side of Zanzibar, head to the mangroves around Muugoni or Michamvi. At Muugoni, you can go out on the water on a dug-out mango canoe to see the mangroves and their intricate ecosystems with a guide. Or at Michamvi, opt for exploring the mangroves on a stand-up paddle tour. An unexpected experience, different to the palm-fringed white beaches of Zanzibar.
Culinary delights and local markets
Zanzibar’s cuisine is a blend of African, Arab, Indian, and European influences, offering a delightful culinary experience. Make sure to set some time aside to head to Zanzibar’s markets to experience the best in street food, or even opt for fine dining options. The island has something to satisfy every palate.
17.Attend a traditional Swahili dinner
Experience local culture by attending a traditional Swahili dinner. Expect live music, storytelling, and authentic dishes that reflect the island’s rich culinary heritage. A real feast for the senses!
18. Savour local cuisine at Forodhani Market
Forodhani Market comes alive with local food stalls in the evenings, serving up delicious Zanzibari dishes. Sample freshly grilled seafood, spicy biryanis, and sweet sugar cane juice while enjoying the vibrant atmosphere.
Sample sumptuous street food at the Forodhani Market
19. Visit the local markets
Exploring the bustling local markets is a great way to experience the island’s vibrant culture. Here, you can shop for handmade crafts, spices, and fresh produce while mingling with friendly locals.
Fresh produce in Zanzibar’s markets
20. Enjoy a seafood feast
No trip to Zanzibar will be complete without a fresh seafood feast! The island is renowned for its seafood, and enjoying a meal at a beachside restaurant or at a beach barbeque is a must. Dine out while listening to the soothing sound of the waves.
Enjoy a delicious seafood meal at one of Zanzibar’s many restaurants
21. Taste the unique flavours of Zanzibari coffee
Don’t miss Zanzibar’s famous coffee, often brewed with spices for an extra kick. Visit local coffee shops or plantations to enjoy this unique blend and learn about its cultural significance.
22. Attend a local food festival
If your visit coincides with a food festival, make sure you attend! You’ll have your choice of Zanzibari dishes and drinks, offering a fantastic opportunity to taste the island’s culinary delights.
Seafood fresh from the grill
Final thoughts
Zanzibar offers a tapestry of experiences, whether you’re an adventure seeker, wildlife enthusiast, culture buff or food lover. With this ultimate to-do list, you’ll be well-equipped to explore the island’s many treasures. Whether you spend your time lounging on pristine beaches, diving into the vibrant underwater world, or immersing yourself in the local culture, Zanzibar is sure to leave a lasting impression.
Africa’s vast miombo woodlands not only house over half of the world’s elephant population but also play a critical role in carbon storage. As carbon markets grow, so does the potential to fund conservation efforts that benefit both climate and wildlife. This intersection of finance, ecology, and preservation reveals a promising pathway for protecting vital habitats and curbing climate change.
What do elephants and carbon markets have in common? The pachyderms and carbon markets may seem like an unlikely pair, but they share a surprising connection: their enthusiasm for Africa’s majestic miombo woodlands. For carbon markets, bigger trees (trees with greater aboveground biomass) represent bigger carbon reserves, which means more carbon credits. Why is this important to elephants? Because carbon credits could finance the conservation and reforestation of the miombo woodlands of southern Africa, which are home to over 50% of the world’s elephant population. (Incidentally, did you know that elephant dung contributes to soil carbon?)
Miombo woodlands are a vast region of tropical grasslands, savannahs and shrublands. Covering much of central and southern Africa, the Miombo woodlands are also home to rhinos, giraffes and other diverse wildlife, and are a reservoir of biodiversity. They are also a source of firewood – and in many rural areas, the only source of available energy. Sadly, the woodlands have been reduced by nearly 30% since 1980 due to factors like charcoal harvesting and conversion to agriculture.
Elephants in Liwonde National Park, Malawi, with miombo woodland on the horizon
What’s the big deal with miombo woodlands and carbon?
Some say carbon credits are the biggest craze since sliced bread. The world is on a mission to reduce anthropogenic emissions of greenhouse gases, which drive climate change. Industries with high carbon emissions are now in the spotlight, and there is increasing regulatory pressure on these companies to reduce their carbon footprint. One of the ways companies are addressing this challenge is by using carbon credits to offset their carbon emissions. In the compliance carbon market, governments set emissions limits on certain industries and carbon credits work like permission slips for emissions. When a company buys a carbon credit from the government, it gains permission to emit up to a specific set amount of CO₂e (the equivalent of one ton of carbon emissions) that year. The compliance market generally requires industries to reduce their emissions through technological processes. If they are unable to do so, they can buy credits from other companies that have done so, or from purveyors of activities that produce carbon credits, e.g. small-scale agro-forestry.
The voluntary carbon market works differently. In a nutshell, this market is supported by individuals and companies that fall outside of the compliance market and allows them to purchase offsets as part of their commitment to limit climate change impacts. Reforestation, forest conservation, rangeland restoration, renewable energy, wetland rewetting and methane flaring are just many of the mitigation activities that can be registered for carbon credits in the voluntary market. These can then be purchased by companies who want to offset their emissions. Carbon credits are a means of financing reforestation and protecting forests.
Miombo woodlands are of interest to carbon markets because forests provide one of nature’s ways of storing carbon. Forests absorb large amounts of carbon dioxide (CO₂) from the atmosphere during photosynthesis. They store the carbon in trees and soils; therefore, protecting these forests is equivalent to protecting a carbon sink. Reforesting means more trees and more carbon stored. However, one needs to know how much carbon the miombo woodlands (typically Brachystegia, Julbernardia and Isoberlinia species) store.
Previously, scientists estimated forest biomass using aerial or satellite observations to measure the extent of the forest, measuring individual tree stem diameter and species and extrapolating across the forest area. However, these approaches are indirect and thus come with a certain degree of uncertainty, so a group of scientists decided to use a new way to measure the size and structure of forests – by using LiDAR (Light detection and ranging) technology. With LiDAR, a high-powered laser shoots precise pulses at a target, and measures the pulse that bounces back to collect data about the target in three dimensions, in conjunction with GPS (Global Positioning System) data and INS (Inertial Navigation System) data. This generates a detailed, comprehensive 3D image of the target. The scientists used this method, which involved shooting billions of laser pulses from the ground and air (using drones and helicopters) at the forest to produce a 3D image of the forest. They then used this detailed image to determine the actual volume of wood within a 50,000ha section of miombo forest in Mozambique’s Gilé National Park.
As they knew from previous research on how much wood weighs per cubic metre and how much of that is carbon, they could easily extrapolate the amount of carbon. They found that these forests may store nearly twice as much carbon in tree trunks and branches (also known as “aboveground biomass”) than previously thought. The 50,000 hectares of forest may store 1.71 million tonnes of carbon in its tree trunks and branches, but 50% of the aboveground biomass, and therefore carbon, was actually stored in the largest 11% of the trees.
This research is essential as it highlights the significance of the miombo woodlands as a potential resource in the climate change mitigation pathway, and their ability to safeguard elephant habitat and harness a crucial carbon sink that can contribute to global emissions reduction.
However, as always, there is no silver bullet. Carbon credits have met with fierce resistance in some cases, partly due to the difficulty in standardising measurements and the commodification of nature, amongst other concerns. It is a complicated process and often takes years to design a carbon project – involving ongoing engagement and contractual agreements to protect or restore specific areas. However, through carbon credits, there is an opportunity to channel financial support into preserving vital woodlands. As our understanding and implementation of carbon markets advance, such initiatives are a testament to how finance and conservation can work hand-in-hand.
Pula! The early rains have arrived in my beloved but parched Lowveld, and my soul is soaring. Although I am currently taking time out in the gorgeous Garden Route (also in South Africa), regular updates from colleagues and friends allow me to enjoy the rains vicariously 🙂
Speaking of awesomeness, this has been a year of enormous growth for our safari business, and our plan to be the coolest safari company in the world is taking shape. Why the growth ambitions? Simply put, the more safaris we sell, the more we can invest in conservation media and the more donations we generate. Did you know that we donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level? AND YET, our most significant contribution to conservation is our conservation media – to educate the world about ground-level reality – from decoding science to celebrating this place’s extraordinary biodiversity, exposing non-sustainable behaviour by members of the wildlife industries and more. Along the way, we have collected a few haters (nothing like shining that spotlight into dark corners to generate angst), but, more importantly, we are gathering a community of passionate people who want the best for Africa.
Thanks for walking this inspirational journey with us, and stand by for more of everything that helps us celebrate Africa and do good!
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Hunting for hidden treasures? Forget buried chests – Cape Town’s real gems are blooming right under our noses. After nearly a century of assumed extinction, the elusive salt pan daisy (Cotula myriophylloides) has reappeared in a flooded wetland in the Transnet Railway Reserve. This flower was last seen on the Cape Flats in 1926. Conservationists have been on the lookout ever since, hoping for a miracle return.
This rediscovery is a nod to Cape Town’s rich, lost ecological past. Flowers like the daisy were once very common. But habitat loss and pollution led to its demise. Wetlands, often overlooked, are critical. They filter water, reduce flood risk, support biodiversity, and make the city a greener place. In a city juggling urban sprawl with ecological needs, the salt pan daisy’s resurgence is a reminder that nature’s resilience is tenacious. Cape Town’s wetlands might hold more surprises yet.
This week, we focus on the lion-hunting martial eagles of the Mara. We also follow Kingsley Holgate’s journey to Chinko and report on a shocking incident involving a guide’s harassment of an elephant calf in Savute. Check out these stories below.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Discover the Big 5, cheetahs and wild dogs of Majete Wildlife Reserve. Then, unwind on Lake Malawi’s tranquil white sand beaches and enjoy the water activities on offer. Seamlessly transition between these stunning locations for the perfect combo safari.
Big 5 + chimps + gorillas in Rwanda – 10 days – from US$6,570pps
This safari flattens three bucket-list items in one trip – in one country! From searching for the Big 5 in Akagera NP to the forests of Nyungwe NP for chimpanzees, and Volcanoes NP for mountain gorillas. You’ll also see rare golden monkeys, the Kigali Genocide Memorial and more.
How to help young children and their families understand the complexities of human-wildlife conflict in Africa? The Southern African Conservation Trust (SACT) has designed an educational comic to inform learners and their parents about human-wildlife conflict between subsistence farmers and the lions that target their livestock. This comic also demonstrates a possible solution for protecting wildlife: the use of bomas to protect livestock at night. The comic includes easy instructions on how to build bomas and protect cattle.
SACT need your support to get 10,000 of these comics into South African schools – both bordering the Kruger National Park, and around other provincial and national reserves.
An incident of alleged elephant harassment – involving a guide and an emaciated elephant calf in Botswana’s Savute – has sparked calls for accountability.
An incident involving a safari guide interacting with a young, distressed elephant calf in Savute, Chobe National Park, has raised ethical concerns about a local safari operator, sparking calls from the public for accountability.
According to tour operator Haley Dahl, who arrived on the scene while on a game drive, the guide in question had climbed out of his vehicle and was taunting the elephant calf. Dahl reported that the guide was “jumping and playing” in front of the calf, antagonising the young animal to encourage it to mock charge him. The juvenile elephant, reportedly starving and without its mother, was visibly distressed as the guide appeared to treat the interaction as entertainment for his guests.
The guide was also photographed gesturing next to the elephant calf, alongside a game-drive vehicle marked “Action Adventure Safaris”.
The incident was photographed by observers
The incident took place a week ago – in the height of a lengthy drought that has left many animals starving.
Dahl says she and her party were highly disturbed by the encounter.
“We arrived at a sighting with this other vehicle to see the guide/owner outside of his vehicle jumping/playing around in front of the baby elephant, antagonising him to try mock charge… and he thought this was a game,” Dahl wrote in a Facebook post.
Dahl told Africa Geographic that, upon witnessing the incident, she shouted at the guide to stop and he allegedly responded, “You should have been here; we have been playing with this baby for 10 minutes already.”
“Our group of eight who witnessed this has been deeply traumatised,” Dahl added.
The elephant calf was visibly emaciated and weakThe “Action Adventure Safaris” logo visible on the vehicle
“This is too catastrophic a mistake to make: this is animal abuse. It is not just unethical behaviour – it’s a dying elephant that he was playing with, frightening, mock charging, trying to get it to run towards him. This was upsetting for all of us watching,” Dahl told Africa Geographic.
Posts on the incident are now gaining traction on social media, with many calling for an investigation.
Before going live with this article, Africa Geographic tried contacting Action Adventure Safaris via email, voice call, and WhatsApp to allow the operator to explain the incident. We received various expletive-filled messages alleging that the company has handed various Facebook posts over to the lawyers, saying [original text quoted as received]:
“the issue is published on So many FB pages nd that was not supposed to be like that buddy……on this side,I have taken this issue to the company lawyer nd I have nothing to say to you till we meet here in Botswana at the cout in relation to abusive words that was used by the first person to launch it on FB.[sic] How can I set the record straight when more than 7 people from different companies nd countries have all published it how…[sic]”
While no explanation of the incident was provided, a representative of the company claimed the guide did not “play” with the elephant, saying:
“Take your time nd think of it yourself alone,how does one play with an elephant?….explain[sic]. To be on foot with an elephant does it mean playing nd how does one play with an elephant?…[sic] So many people have been seen on foot with wildlife even going beyond to feed them or even touching the animal….its self……so go nd tell them to find something to bring to your office nd report off about….[sic]”
Wildlife tourism remains a crucial aspect of Botswana’s economy, particularly in ecologically sensitive areas like Savute. The reputation of the tourism sector depends on responsible practices that prioritise animal welfare and align with conservation goals.
This incident is a stark reminder of the importance of ethical wildlife interaction and the role of responsible guiding in safeguarding Botswana’s precious wildlife heritage.
The martial eagle is Africa’s largest bird of prey. They can take down animals nearly twice their weight. A new study reveals how these formidable predators hunt and kill lion cubs in the greater Mara region of southwestern Kenya.
Martial eagles are known to have a highly varied diet, hunting anything from tiny winged termite alates erupting from holes in the ground after a thunderstorm to antelopes weighing 10kg (22lbs) or more.
In a new study, researchers have gathered together all the records made since 2008 of what appears to be the opportunistic hunting of lion cubs weighing up to 6kg (13lbs) by martial eagles in the greater Mara region of southwestern Kenya.
Female martial eagles are bigger than the males, and they are likely the ones hunting lion cubs simply because they’re able to fly off to safety with heavier prey, says PhD candidate and corresponding author of the study, Richard Stratton Hatfield. Also, it’s the female martial eagles who prefer to eat mammals, he says.
An adult martial eagle
“Males tend to really like [hunting] birds, and so I just think a lion cub is really more on the menu for a female.”
It is hard to tell male and female martial eagles apart from photographs, says Hatfield, but based on their body and talon size, all of the eagles photographed and recorded hunting lion cubs appear to be females.
In 2016, Hatfield began studying these apex predators – these distinctively long-winged soaring eagles with piercing yellow eyes and white breasts flecked with dark spots – for his Master’s thesis. He discovered the birds captured around 50 different species of prey. But it was Simon Thomsett, a leading authority on East African birds of prey, who would also become Hatfield’s co-author on the study, who first told him about a pair of martial eagles hunting lion cubs at the Musiara Marsh, within the Maasai Mara National Reserve.
A recently fledged juvenile martial eagle takes off with a lion cub, estimated at around three weeks old, on 15 March 2019 in Mara North Conservancy, Kenya. This juvenile martial eagle fledged from a known nest. The actual kill was not observed, but based on the fledgling’s behaviour, the researchers suspect the female parent killed the cub and gave it to this youngster. Photo courtesy of Jes Lefcourt.
“It’s well known in guiding lore in the Mara that martials can take lion cubs,” Hatfield says. In all, his study documents a total of nine lion cubs killed by martial eagles between August 2008 and June 2023.
In one notable record, field guide and camp manager Patrick Reynolds and his team documented a martial eagle, probably the same individual, hunting all three cubs from a pride near the Musiara Marsh over several weeks in December 2012.
In another incident, Mike Saitoti from Fairmont Safari Club observed and photographed a young martial eagle killing a lion cub in the Lemek Conservancy, in the north of the reserve. The cub was too heavy for the young eagle to carry, so it dragged it to a nearby termite mound to feed in peace.
But lion cubs aren’t always easy prey. The study cites a video by Mark Mallone in the Mara North Conservancy in 2016 that captured the moment a martial eagle attempted to take a six-week-old lion cub. The video depicts how the eagle was thwarted by a protective lioness that leapt into the air to try to swat the eagle.
“They’re clever; they’re not going to kill things that are unnecessarily dangerous,” he says. “It’s all about managing risk and reward, and also what they can fly with. It almost becomes a liability if they can’t fly with [the prey].”
The greater Mara region is rich in wildlife, including lions, and consequently closely monitored by safari guides and their clients. However, the martial eagle’s range extends across large parts of East and Southern Africa, meaning similar encounters could be happening elsewhere but have yet to be recorded.
“These predation events are probably rare but widespread and underreported in literature,” Hatfield and his co-authors state. They also list several isolated records in the past of martial eagles killing other mammalian carnivores and their young, including a serval in Uganda’s Queen Elizabeth National Park, a cheetah cub in Kenya’s Amboseli National Park, and an African wild dog pup in South Africa’s Klaserie Private Nature Reserve.
Hatfield, who also works on conservation programmes in southern Kenya with the Kenya Bird of Prey Trust, says he hopes his research on lion-cub hunting will present martial eagles in a new light – as “a predator of consequence” – something that is too often overlooked in studies of predator-prey relationships in African savannah systems.
“Raptors in general, and definitely martial eagles, are just completely excluded from the equation,” he says. “The top of a trophic [food] pyramid is much more complicated than we realise, and it’s not as simple as ‘lions are the king of the jungle’.”
The researcher says that recognition that martial eagles occupy a place alongside lions, leopards, and hyenas at the top table would help boost the eagles’ conservation value. The birds, along with other large African raptors, need all the conservation help they can get.
A separate study published earlier this year analysed declines in dozens of birds of prey across Africa over the past 20–40 years. It found that the number of martial eagles was down by 90%.
For Kenyan martial eagles, this is driven in large part by the shrinking of suitable habitat needed to sustain breeding pairs and their offspring, which are often electrocuted on power cables when they disperse from the safety of their parents’ territory. “Just like lions, they probably don’t have a future outside of our large protected areas,” says Hatfield.
Further reading
African eagles soar through the skies, sharp-eyed and fierce, bringing unexpected death from above to their prey. Read more about the avian apex predators of Africa here.
“Forget it! It’s simply not possible in a regular 4×4 vehicle, despite your Defenders being capable – you’ll destroy them trying to do it,” says Erik Mararv, African Parks’ regional operations manager for Central Africa.
Erik knows what he’s talking about; he was born in the Central African Republic (CAR) and has spent a large chunk of his adventurous life there. He’s also one of the founders of the Chinko Project – the final African Parks-managed protected area left to complete on this Afrika Odyssey Expedition.
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
We’re homeless
Erik goes on to warn us that the last section of the 900km road from Bangui (CAR’s capital) to Chinko is known as The Hole. “The ‘middle mannetjie‘ is so high and the banks so steep on either side that even tough, 6×6 high-clearance trucks are tow-piped together in a sort of push-me-pull-you truck train to get through,” he says. “Some of the mud holes are deeper than the trucks themselves. It’s common for them to get stuck, and the drivers spend days – sometimes weeks – digging, winching and cutting detours through the surrounding equatorial forest.”
Erik continues, “Rebel groups have to be negotiated with for a rite-of-passage and the military must join the convoy for a section. If a truck gets bogged down, it’s difficult to get around because you’ll have to cut your own track through the jungle and that could invite unwelcome attention from the rebels. The only way we can get lighter vehicles to Chinko is to put them in a 20-foot container, weld the doors shut, load them onto a flat-bed lorry and hope for the best. It’s the end of the dry season, the big rains are only a few weeks away, and our team is busy loading the last convoy for this season. Everything has to be trucked to Chinko in 14-tonne loads: drums of aviation fuel, diesel, essential food supplies, and equipment – and we’re in a race against time right now. Your only way to get to Chinko, I’m afraid, is to fly.”
Chinko is surely the most remote of all 22 African Parks-managed protected areas on this vast continent. Seeing our glum looks, Erik lets out a laugh. “Don’t worry, you’re saving the best till last. We’ll pick you up in Bangui and fly you to Kojo Basecamp.”
And so, with Benin’s Pendjari and Park W now behind us, we decide to drive the expedition Defenders across Togo to Ghana to be shipped back to South Africa and fly from Accra to Bangui. But at the Togo border, the s*** hits the fan as a hostile immigration lady rudely points to a notice in French sellotaped to the wall. The land border has, without warning, been closed to foreigners. “Go back,” she says curtly, pointing in Benin’s direction. We try to plead our case but she’s implacable.
Now what!? With the security situation being what it is in the northern areas bordering Burkina Faso, we can’t drive around. It is even more frustrating that tiny Togo is less than 100km wide and only takes a few hours to reach Ghana.
Fortunately, in Africa, you can always ‘make a plan’. The helpful Land Rover agents in Accra agree to dispatch two drivers who, with their ECOWAS (Economic Community of West African States) papers, will be allowed to cross Togo and meet us where we’ve holed up at a friendly, rustic guest house on the beach near the Benin/Togo border, and drive our Defenders to Ghana.
It’s a sad moment to see Moyo (‘heart’ in Swahili) and Isibindi (‘courage’ in Zulu) disappearing down the sandy track. Like hermit crabs, they’ve been our homes for over a year, travelling more than 60,000km on a zigzag, 22-country journey across Africa, and we’ve become very fond of them. What champions! They’ve carried tonnes of kit and humanitarian supplies – malaria nets, Rite to Sight-reading glasses and thousands of Wildlife Art templates for the expedition’s community programmes at each African Parks-managed protected area – and they haven’t missed a beat.
From a vibrant send-off at Lesedi Cultural Village near Joburg last year, across the towering red-sand expanses of Angola’s Iona, and through Liuwa Plain, Kafue and Bangweulu Wetlands in Zambia; along roads less travelled to explore AP’s five resurging national parks in Zimbabwe, Malawi and Mozambique; traversing Tanzania to reach beautiful Akagera and the highest source of the Nile in the Nyungwe forests of Rwanda; racing a storm during a ferry crossing of Uganda’s Lake Albert; nearly succumbing to record floods at Garamba in the DRC; and surviving unbelievably broken roads to reach the largest mammal migration in the world in South Sudan’s Bandingilo and Boma. Then, in this final chapter, tackling the massive distance from Namibia to Zakouma, Siniaka Minia and Ennedi in the Chad route, making short work of thick, sticky mud in the Congo-Brazzaville rainforests to reach Odzala-Kokoua, and onto the powdery sands of the Sahara Desert near the Libyan border. Living up to their nicknames, they’ve taken us through the badlands of Cameroon, a risky crossing of Nigeria and into the jihadist ‘red zone’ of northern Benin. Sand tracks, mud tracks, goat tracks, no tracks, river crossings and months of unrelenting heat and dust… they’ve conquered everything on this conservation, community and culture-themed journey that’s uncovered so many stories of hope for Africa’s wildlife and neighbouring communities. Already, we feel homeless.
Onward to Chinko
This isn’t our first visit to Bangui, the capital of the Central African Republic, which lies on the northern bank of the 1,000-kilometre Ubangi River that flows into the mighty Congo River. Years ago, we arrived here in an old-style Defender as part of a journey through Burkina Faso, Niger, Chad, CAR, and Equatorial Guinea called the All-Afrika Expedition, so named as they were the five remaining African countries that we hadn’t yet explored on our 30-year mission to adventure to all 54 countries on the continent.
Now we’re back again and fired up to reach the final destination of this Afrika Odyssey Expedition – the wildlife refuge of Chinko in the far eastern regions of CAR.
A warm greeting from the Chinko team
Chinko is in a remote and volatile area that’s so isolated it once served as a secret base for Joseph Kony’s notorious rebel group, the Lord’s Resistance Army.
We overnight at African Parks’ guest house below the hill on which still stands a huge sign declaring ‘Bangui – La Coquette’ (Bangui – the beautiful lady). Approximately the size of France, the CAR was once a playground for the French elite, who came to hunt elephants and bongo antelopes. However, the country has been unstable since its independence in 1960, and whilst it is rich in diamonds, gold, and uranium, it remains one of the world’s poorest nations. When we were last here, it was a breeding ground for mounting opposition and rebel activities against then-president Francois Bozize who was eventually overthrown. That story is brilliantly told in the searingly honest book ‘Battle for Bangui’, which exposes the reckless folly and greed of the South African government, which, in 2013, deployed a tiny force of 200 crack South African troops into the CAR conflict. Badly outnumbered, they fought heroically to hold off an overwhelming force of 7,000 rebels. 15 South African soldiers died, and many more were wounded before they were forced to negotiate a ceasefire at their overrun base. It remains a notorious scandal to this day.
Sadly, the CAR civil war was ongoing, involving successive governments and rebel leaders from the Séléka coalition and Anti-Balaka militias, with thousands killed and over a million people displaced by the violence. Hopefully, those dark days are passing; with a new president in place, Bangui’s streets are alive with pedestrians, motorbike taxis, shops and market stalls. Some street vendors are even selling second-hand, camouflage bullet-proof vests.
But friendly Tunisian-born Zakaria, who handles African Parks’ difficult logistics and is driving us through Bangui, warns us not to take photos. “Don’t even point at anything or the Russian Wagner mercenaries – now called the Africa Corps – will be onto you like a shot,” he says. “Then there’s the heavily armed government troops and the Blue Berets – the UN – which includes 2,000 well-trained Rwandan soldiers and police officers as part of the peace-keeping force.”
“Lots going on here,” Zakaria continues. “I was 10 years with Médecins Sans Frontiers working as a logistics guy in places like Bangladesh, Sudan, Somalia and Afghanistan. I ended up here in Bangui, which was pretty rough at the time. That’s how I encountered African Parks and the incredible work they’re doing at Chinko. So, I made a choice: I’d dedicated a decade to humanitarian work, so I decided to give the next 10 years to conservation. Already, it’s proving an excellent choice.”
Our excitement mounts – just one more park to go – as we’re bundled into AP’s Cessna, piloted by outgoing South African Stephan Fouche. “The flight is about two-and-a-half hours; I’ll let you know when we cross into Chinko,” he says through the headphones with a grin.
The outskirts of Bangui – a sprawling cluster of tin roofs, red dirt roads and the sweep of the Ubangi River – are soon behind us. Once over Chinko, the endless views of this untamed sanctuary that was once a gigantic hunting concession take our breath away. To think that this massive stretch still exists in a country that has been so torn apart by civil war is surely one of the greatest stories of hope for conservation in our time. It’s a huge credit to African Parks and forward-thinking members of CAR’s government.
Chinko: Phoenix rising
“That’s Chinko’s base camp below us,” comes Stephan’s voice. “It’s called Kojo, after the river nearby. As you can see, it’s in the middle of nowhere!” Tiffany Gobbert is there to meet us, and we’re amazed at how organised this remote park HQ is: aircraft hangers, a long line of neat accommodation units, a mess area and kitchen, workshops, fuel tanks and substantial storage sheds, all linked by a spider’s web of well-maintained gravel paths.
Also on hand is CAR-born park manager Jean Baptiste Mamang-Kanga. With 25 years of tough experience in conservation and through Tiffany’s French-to-English translations, we quickly sense his passion and dedication – not only for protecting this unique ecosystem but also for improving the lives of people around Chinko. Spanning a colossal 55,700 km2, it is the most remote and uninhabited wilderness area left in tropical Africa and has a story of revival like no other.
Kingsley, with some of Chinko’s team members
For nearly 50 years, this vast landscape, flanked by the DRC in the south, Sudan in the north and South Sudan in the east, endured the onslaught of lawless exploitation by war rebels, ivory poachers and masses of armed Sudanese cattle herders, who burned vast areas for grazing. 95% of the wildlife was wiped out.
As we bump along a muddy track to reach the Kojo River for the 22nd and final collection of symbolic water in the Afrika Odyssey Expedition’s calabash – Defassa waterbuck scattering, buffalo glowering from thick undergrowth and swatting persistent tsetse flies – Jean Baptiste tells us that since African Parks’ involvement began ten years ago, the wildlife has begun to return. Holding the battered calabash aloft like an Olympic torch, he proclaims in French, echoing Erik’s words, “You’ve saved the best till last!”
Park manager Jean Baptiste Mamang-Kanga and expedition member Graeme Madsen collect water from the Kojo River for the expedition calabashPark manager Jean Baptiste signs the expedition scroll
Chinko is now one of the only protected areas in equatorial Africa where both forest and savannah elephants co-exist. It’s become a stronghold for around 1,500 giant Lord Derby eland and 14 primate species, including 1,300 eastern chimpanzees.
Recent surveys suggest it could be home to the world’s largest population of bongo antelope. The northern lion population, almost eradicated, has increased to a few hundred. Other carnivores such as hyena, leopard, serval, wild dog and the elusive golden cat are on the rise too.
Chinko’s northern lion population has increasedWild dogs are also present in the reserveRecent surveys suggest Chinko may be home to the world’s largest bongo population
The Chinko River is the only uninhabited tropical river system in the world – not a sign of human habitation for hundreds of kilometres – and is home to a rich diversity of fish species, including the predatory Goliath tigerfish that’s found only in the Congo River basin, which can grow to 1.5m in size and a hefty 50kgs.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? You can view and book accommodation to various African Parks destinations by clicking here.
But Chinko still has its challenges. With the current civil war in Sudan, thousands of refugees are pouring over the border from the nearby Darfur province and hundreds-strong cattle herds still pose an ever-present risk to conservation efforts.
The Chinko RiverHerders tend their cattle around Ali Plains. The herds are ever-present, and “Tango Teams” engage with herders to educate them on the sensitivity of biodiversity within the park and guide them towards designated corridors for herding.
We’re inspired by the peaceful ‘Words, not Weapons’ approach that Chinko has adopted to engage with the nomadic herders. Dedicated Tango Teams (easily identifiable in bright yellow hats and non-camo gear) track and visit the nomad camps, explain the park’s boundaries and guide cattle herders to designated corridors that avoid sensitive wildlife areas. One night, after a simple meal at Jean Baptiste’s house, we watch a new Chinko documentary that showcases their work.
A Tango Team member engages with a herder
Up at sunrise the next morning to fly like a bird with Erik in his old microlight, following the meandering Chinko River as tree branches flash past in the near-touching distance, is a mind-blowing, never-to-be-forgotten experience. The rising mist in the undulating valleys and panoramic views of the tall, dense Congolian rainforest and wooded savannahs that make up the vast expanse of Chinko are indescribably magnificent.
Following the meandering Chinko River from above
On one of the last pages of the expedition’s Scroll for Conservation, that is now bursting with thousands of supportive messages from across Africa, Chinko’s resident biologist, Thierry Aebischer, writes:
‘Chinko is one of the most forbidding and forgotten places on the planet. After centuries of neglect, the CAR government, African Parks and many partners, including adjacent communities, have finally been able to start managing this Crown Jewel of diverse biodiversity on a large scale, ensuring that local people really can benefit from their natural resources. Chinko’s history is dark, the challenges are real, but the potential for nature and people is huge. It’s a privilege to work here and see a Phoenix reemerging from the ashes.’
Maybe we have saved the best till last.
Roan antelope on the water’s edge
Mission accomplished?
For this Afrika Odyssey expedition, reaching Chinko in the CAR is a hard-won ‘Mission Accomplished’ milestone. The dots on the map of all 22 African Parks-managed areas with over 20 million hectares under protection are finally ticked off. This epic year+-long journey into the beating heart of Africa’s most iconic wildlife regions to uncover stories of hope is done and dusted.
Or so we thought. African Parks has been busy in the months since we set out; there’s a new, extraordinary project we must visit before the final wrap-up can take place.
Further reading
Last seen over 20 years ago, the Pousargues’s mongoose was recently rediscovered in the Chinko Project Area. Read more about the discovery.
Travel in Africa is about knowing when and where to go, and with whom. A few weeks too early/late or a few kilometres off course, and you could miss the greatest show on Earth. And wouldn’t that be a pity?
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