With China in the process of phasing out its legal ivory trade market, one would think that the fight against combating the illegal market in Asia would be gaining ground. However, a new study has revealed that China’s neighbouring country, Laos, has now become the fastest-growing ivory market in the world, as traders and everyone else in the chain move their businesses across the border.
At a news conference held in Nairobi recently, Save the Elephants – a Kenya-based conservation group – released their extensive report that reveals how the illegal African ivory sales in Laos is growing at an incredible rate.
Between 2013 and 2016, there was a significant increase in the number of Chinese-owned retail outlets that sell ivory, with the main consumers being Chinese nationals – who buy up to 80% of the ivory items in Laos.
Some of the ivory is processed in Vietnam and smuggled into Laos, while in other cases it is processed in Laos by Chinese traders.
Ivory items, such as pendants, necklaces, bangles and beads are sold openly in the shops around the country as there is no proper law enforcement in place, despite Laos being a member of CITES where there are regulations that prohibit the import and export of ivory.
There is a growing concern that with China shutting down its legal ivory market, that more and more consumers will turn to countries such as Laos and the illegal ivory trade will continue to flourish.
Lions from Etosha National Park have reportedly escaped into the Sesfontein Constituency in the Kunene Region killed 19 goats in one night, according to online Namibian newspaper, Informanté.
The incident was confirmed by a spokesperson from the Ministry of Environment and Tourism (MET), Romeo Munyunda. “A total of 19 goats were killed and on different nights, a number of sheep and cattle were also killed by two lions at farms near Opuwo in the Kunene Region”, said Muyunda. He added that the ministry is currently monitoring the movement of the lions via satellite.
The number of lions is unknown, but farmers in the area are now financially affected by the attacks. Muyunda said that their loss could well be over N$50,000.
The human-wildlife conflict in Namibia is a serious problem and efforts have been made by MET to handle this and have recently updated their National Policy on Human-Wildlife Conflict.
AfriCat Foundation director, Tammy Hoth, said that they were aware of the escaped lions prior to the recent attacks and had advised the farmers to ensure their kraals were secure against lions. She went on to say that in some cases lions do not kill to consume, but rather kill livestock in instances when mother lions are teaching their cubs how to hunt. In the case of the 19 goats, none of them were consumed.
Hoth said that the Kaokoland is currently being patrolled and it is believed that there are seven cubs with their mothers roaming the area. The local livestock farmers have been made aware of the escaped lions.
Madikwe Game Reserve is an extraordinary place. It was established in 1991 on a tract of mismanaged farmland, where the land had been depleted of nearly all of its natural resources. Approximately 10,000 animals were relocated to the area in a project known as Operation Phoenix, over seven years.
At the time, Operation Phoenix was the largest wildlife relocation project of its kind in the world – it was aimed at generating a wildlife-tourism economy of significant benefit to local communities in this remote region of South Africa. It is still a world-renowned conservation project today and is bearing fruit in a way the visionaries could hardly have thought possible.
My wife and I were fortunate enough to spend two nights in Madikwe recently. I have visited Madikwe several times over the past 16 years, and was keen to share some of that quintessential Madikwe magic with my wife – it was her first time in the reserve, and I wanted it to be as special for her as it has been for me over the years. Little did I know that I would rediscover the magic of Madikwe for myself, entirely!
Usually, man-made structures interfere with my sense of the wilderness around me. They’re a distraction to what I feel should be pure wilderness. But, after a lengthy discussion on the topic with our knowledgeable guide Armand, I started to think that Madikwe is one of the rare wild places where I can accept a few old structures as part of the wilderness landscape.
It’s a part of Madikwe’s history and serves not only as a reminder of how things were before, but also that Africa’s wilderness can be brought back from the damage caused by the destructive impact of humanity. For me, Madikwe is a pilot reserve in ‘bringing back wild Africa’ – as the success of Operation Phoenix attests to. It was one of the first reserves in Southern Africa to take the mammoth task of rewilding seriously, and it’s a privilege to be able to enjoy the rewards of those real African conservation efforts today.
Stars and special sightings
After our arrival and delicious lunch at Jaci’s Safari Lodge, we settled into our magnificent Starbed Suite. It’s a huge room with a panoramic view over a tributary of the Marico River, with wildlife constantly moving along the riverine bush down below. After a quick shower (with a choice of three showers!), we got ready for our first afternoon drive.
Before departing, Armand asked us if we would like to see anything specific. I’m sure he was used to some of the more typical answers – Big 5 animals like elephant, lion and rhino, for example. To his bewilderment, I asked him if he could try and get us a rare photo opportunity of a yellow-throated sandgrouse.
And, can you believe it, he delivered on our first game drive! As an avid birder, this was a thrilling sighting – what a way to start our safari in Madikwe!
We spotted a few yellow-throated sandgrouses that morning, got some great photos of this notoriously tricky bird and moved on, with smiles on our faces. The next sighting was one of the rarest and unique you could wish to have on any safari anywhere in Africa – African wild dogs! And, as if that was not enough, we managed to add two male lions and white rhino to our list for the first afternoon. Game viewing in Madikwe is truly spectacular; it is known as one of the best places in Southern Africa for lion sightings!
After dinner and a sensational day of game viewing on safari in Madikwe, we settled onto the roof of our Starbed Suite. We listened to the sounds of the African bush under the stars, full of anticipation for our morning drive.
Madikwe mornings
Our first morning drive was one for the safari books as Madikwe was delivering in hugely unexpected ways! We started with three old buffalo bulls, followed by a Verreaux’s eagle-owl on a nest close to camp, and then continued to tick off all the members of the Big 5 within our four-hour drive!
I had my first leopard sighting in Madikwe a few years back, and this time around, I got one of my best leopard photos to date (see cover image)! It was a very relaxed male leopard, and he was lazing a few metres from our vehicle. With the excitement overflowing from our fantastic game drive, we returned to camp to enjoy a lovely brunch on the lodge’s deck.
After our delicious brunch, we couldn’t wait to go and check out the Terrapin hide – a famous, eye-level hide situated in the middle of the waterhole, accessed only via an underwater tunnel. We spent some time here observing the passing wildlife, with my favourite moment being when a grey heron caught a fish a few metres away from me. He was so close – I got one of my favourite photographs of this graceful bird.
On our afternoon drive, we decided to explore the quieter southern parts of the reserve, because we’d already had quality sightings of most species on offer here. We got onto some fresh leopard tracks, but after more than an hour spent tracking, it had managed to evade us, staying true to its secretive nature.
We did see more elephants, white rhinos and two male lions, and it was a relaxed drive for our final afternoon. Upon returning to the lodge, we came across the resident male brown hyena drinking at the waterhole – brown hyena are far rarer and skittish than their more popular laughing cousins, the spotted hyena.
A rhino to remember
I was hoping for a good sighting of black rhino, but, as I know from experience, it’s not an easy task. Their favourite habitat is in dense acacia thickets, which makes sightings very difficult, and photo opportunities close to impossible.
It was our last morning drive, and we were on a mission. Armand said that there was a thicket where he sometimes bumps into black rhino early in the morning, so we decided to go for it! Maybe, just maybe, we would get lucky. And lo and behold, we got lucky! We found a black rhino mother and her calf!
After spending some time with them (without any real photo opportunities) they became more relaxed and moved through a clearing where we were able to get some fantastic and memorable photos.
Why Madikwe?
A Madikwe safari is one of the best travel choices you can make when deciding to come on safari in South Africa. You’ll get to explore the full 75,000 hectares of the reserve and not just a small concession area like in other reserves. The habitat is diverse, with mountains, waterholes, and the Marico River to the east.
Game viewing is exceptional, and the area is malaria-free, which makes Madikwe an excellent choice for a family safari.
For my wife and I, Jaci’s Safari Lodge delivered on all aspects, and more. The game viewing was incredible, the food was out of this world, the accommodation better than perfect and the staff made us feel like family! It has since surged to the top our list of African safari destinations – maybe you’d like to add it to your list too?
At 750 km² or 75,000 ha, Madikwe is the fifth largest game reserve in South Africa.
The reserve was formally established in 1991 by the government of Bophuthatswana, a former homeland area of South Africa. It was flagged for the potential of a thriving wildlife tourism economy that would benefit the local communities – shortly after, Operation Phoenix began. This mammoth ecosystem rewilding operation involved many world firsts, including translocating entire family herds of elephant.
Madikwe lies in a unique location on the fringes of the Kalahari Desert between Botswana and South Africa. Because of the great variety in ecosystems between the Lowveld of South Africa and the Kalahari thornveld of Botswana, the region is host to a staggering array of species – to be precise, 66 mammal species and more than 300 bird species.
The famous Mafikeng Road – a historical road used by traders, hunters, missionaries and explorers – runs through the reserve. King Mzilikazi of the Matabele tribe ventured through the Madikwe area on this road over a century ago on his way to expanding the Matabele Kingdom.
Madikwe is home to the Big 5 and is also a haven for successful and thriving populations of African wild dog and cheetah.
There is currently a corridor conservation project underway, known as the ‘Heritage Park’ conservation corridor, set to join Madikwe Game Reserve and Pilanesberg National Park. The project is estimated to be finished in two years.
Madikwe is easily reached from Johannesburg or Pretoria, on a short three-and-a-half-hour drive, or a 45-minute charter flight. The best time to visit Madikwe is between March and November when the temperatures are not soaring hot, and the game is more active.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Anton lives in Pretoria, South Africa, and works in his family’s property development and investment business. He and his wife, Renate, both have a passion for wildlife, with a particular interest in birds.
A large bull elephant was shot and killed in Zambia this past weekend by a trophy hunter. The term ‘iconic Tusker’ was used to describe the elephant and celebrate the hunt, but it is not clear if this was indeed a true ‘Tusker’ (with tusks weighing 100 pounds on each side). It is estimated that there are fewer than 50 true Tuskers left in Africa, and probably only 25-30.
The hunt was reportedly legally organised through Stone Hunting Safaris, where hunting in Zambia takes place in “the Luangwa Valley, Kafue Flats, and Bangweulu Swamps in governmental conservation areas or large privately owned ranches, depending on the required species”.
“Biggest elephant shot in Zambia in decades, iconic Tusker. Well done great trophy ? ??and yes all meat was utilized donated to local villages and schools. Lot of money was payed [sic] for the license to shoot the bull and that money goes towards conservation of not only next elephant generations but the whole ecosystem there benefits from legal controlled hunting.”
Game Animals of the Past and Present explained, in reply to numerous comments, that all parts of the elephant were used. The hunter receives the skin and tusks, and the meat is donated to local villages and schools. In addition, the money paid by the hunter goes towards conservation practices in the region.
A transboundary elephant connectivity study has been launched in western Zambia with the fitting of satellite tracking collars to wild elephants to investigate their cross-border movements.
The Elephant Connection Research Project in Zambia has initiated a study of elephant movements in the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA TFCA) to investigate the connectivity between Zambian elephant populations and their cross-border cousins.
Of critical conservation concern throughout Africa is the isolation of elephant populations due to shrinking habitat, a problem that this study is designed to address. Headed by Dr Kerryn Carter, the project founder and head researcher, this first phase of the study will track movements of eight elephants from Zambia’s Sioma Ngwezi National Park to determine elephant utilisation of the transboundary landscape and identify impediments to their movements and threats to their survival that restrict connectivity with cross-border populations.
Together with Zambia’s Department of National Parks and Wildlife and partners WWF, the research seeks to identify transboundary wildlife movement corridors which, once adequately protected, can help to protect all wildlife species that use them. To this end, there are plans to track a greater number of elephants and also giraffe throughout the Zambian component of KAZA TFCA in the coming years.
The KAZA Transfrontier Conservation Area is one of the largest of its kind in the world, encompassing 520,000 km² of protected areas and communal lands in Zambia, Angola, Botswana, Namibia and Zimbabwe. KAZA TFCA, established in 2011, links some of the iconic National Parks (NP) of southern Africa such as Zambia’s Kafue NP, Botswana’s Chobe NP and Okavango Delta, and Zimbabwe’s Hwange NP, along with more than 30 adjacent reserves, conservancies and wildlife management areas.
Transfrontier Conservation Areas can assist wildlife movements by bringing together separately managed national parks that are adjacent to political boundaries, so that wildlife can be managed under one umbrella. This provides the opportunity for suitable and safe habitat to be maintained between protected areas to enable connectivity of otherwise separated wildlife populations, which is one of the main objectives of KAZA TFCA.
However, information about functional connectivity is lacking and secure landscape linkages between many of these areas have yet to be realised. With more frequent droughts as a result of climate change reducing the amount of natural forage and water available, wildlife will need areas of safe passage to move across the landscape in search of scarce resources. Knowledge of wildlife movement pathways generated by this study will assist Zambia’s Department of National Parks and Wildlife in planning anti-poaching patrols to ensure identified elephant habitats are secured so that dispersing elephants will not be at increased risk of poaching as they attempt to navigate routes through increasingly disturbed landscapes.
Elephants historically moved throughout much of Africa as part of an interconnected population and this enabled genetic mixing and minimised the degradation of habitats that can occur at high elephant densities. These long-distance movements are now difficult for many elephants that exist in protected areas that have become surrounded by human habitation. The dire consequences that can occur when populations are isolated are overuse of food resources to the extent that the habitat is destroyed and becomes unsuitable for other species, human-elephant conflict and genetic bottlenecks from inbreeding.
If the habitat between protected areas is conserved to enable elephants to undertake long-distance movements, these problems can be avoided. At least half of the estimated number of elephants in Africa occurs within the KAZA TFCA. Consequently, the provision of corridors linking protected areas in this region will unite many of southern Africa’s elephants into a single entity and improve the functionality of the elephant meta-population in the region.
This study has been made possible with generous donations from WWF (Zambia & Namibia) and a donation by Wildlife Crime Prevention (Zambia) of their aircraft to help locate elephant herds for collaring.
Hanko stamps are the Japanese version of a signature and have been in use for many centuries – dating as far back as the 3rd century when they were used by samurai and government officials. The choice of ivory as one of the materials used to create these everyday tools has been a significant contributor to the demand for ivory.
These stamps are used for a variety of purposes, from opening bank accounts and purchasing vehicles, to accepting deliveries and ‘signing’ on important documents. It is said that the average person owns up to five personal hanko stamps during their lifetime.
Cheap, run-of-the-mill stamps can be bought ready-made in shops, and are usually made out of plastic or wood, used for casual purchases and informal documents. The other, more expensive, option is a customised stamp – used to sign important documentation – and those are usually made out of horn, crystal or ivory.
Elephant ivory hanko stamps gained popularity from the mid-1900s, and in 1983 more than one million pounds of ivory (approximately 5000 elephants-worth), for the purpose of being made into hanko stamps, was imported from Kenya – which was legal at the time.
Since then, Japan has become a member of CITES (the Convention of International Trade for Endangered Species), and in 2016 agreed, along with 179 other parties, to call for the closure of legal domestic ivory markets that are linked to illegal trade or poaching.
One of Japan’s largest retail companies, Aeon, recently announced that by March 2020, the sale of ivory-made products will cease in all of their stores nationwide.
Aeon released an official announcement stating that since June 2015, their directly operated stores have refrained from selling elephant ivory products, and now they are looking to their 180 hanko stamp tenants – that use ivory as one of the materials – to comply with their policy and start looking at “replacing the ivory products with products made of environmentally friendly alternative materials in stages by the end of March 2020”.
However, even though retailers such as Aeon, as well as e-commerce retailer Rakuten, are changing their policies and taking a stand to close down their ivory trade, there are still others out there who are still trading in ivory, such as Yahoo! Japan, who continue to sell ivory products (such as hanko stamps) through their online auction and shopping site.
Many wildlife organisations, such as EIA, have made it clear that the Japanese government needs to close its domestic ivory market for good following its agreement with CITES in order to protect elephants and clamp down on the illegal trade of ivory.
Guide, Alon Cassidy, describes watching western lowland gorillas feeding on seasonal fruits in Odzala-Kokoua National Park, Republic of Congo:
August was a particularly fruitful month in Odzala in many ways. The western lowland gorilla groups living in the forest close to Ngaga could feast on seasonal landolphia and anonnidium fruits, and we enjoyed some wonderful sightings of these primates enjoying their seasonal treats.
Landolphia is medium-sized fruit which grows from a large vine. It’s quite rich and can be rather sour, but despite this, it is enjoyed by humans just as much as by our near relatives, the gorillas. Like all the best rewards, a little bit of work is required to enjoy it – you need to tear or cut through the fleshy skin and its rubbery latex to expose a cluster of pips in the centre; each of these is covered in a soft, fleshy and nutritious mesocarp.
The gorillas have perfected a technique that gets them to the good stuff in just three deft moves. They pluck the fruit from the vine, bite it open to reveal the juicy flesh, and enjoy. All of which means that during fruiting season, it’s unwise to stand under a landolphia vine as there may be a gorilla above you, contentedly discarding bits of fruit rind.
The typical diet of western lowland gorillas in Odzala contains a lot of fruit (in the right season). The availability of fruits determines their movements, and in fruiting seasons they can cover a lot of ground as they visit and revisit favourite trees and vines.
When one of our expert local trackers says that we need to pick up our pace to be in the right place at the right time, you know he means that there’s going to be a show. Western lowland gorillas are far more arboreal than their mountain cousins, and fruiting season means more opportunities for viewing them above the level of the dense undergrowth.
Taking photographs of gorillas in trees can be challenging, however, as you’ll often be shooting against the bright sunlight piercing the rainforest canopy.
One particularly memorable recent sighting involved the habituated gorilla group led by the large and powerful silverback, Jupiter. They were seen making nests near the landolphia vines, and we set off on a brisk walk with Gaben, one of our experienced trackers. He motioned to us that we should wait as the gorillas were on their way.
His prediction was uncannily accurate – just five minutes later, Jupiter’s group began to climb the vines in search of fruit. Standing spellbound with our two guests, we watched as eight gorillas plucked fruits from the vines that straddled the canopy. Jupiter himself chose not to climb, preferring to wait at the base of the trees and collect any fruit that fell. However, all he seemed to find were rinds, and he had to resort to eating marantaceae leaves instead.
The second key fruit at this time is the large anonnidium (or obei) which grows on a medium-sized tree. The obei slightly resembles a pineapple, and can grow to around 40cm in length. It’s popular with the guides, but it can be a challenge for them to find a ripe one that the gorillas have not gotten to first.
Watching Neptuno’s group eat obei fruits gave us important clues as to the hierarchy within his group, as the gorillas which get the biggest and best pieces tend to be the ones which are higher up in the pecking order.
We observed one youngster climb up into the obei tree as if to assure himself of first choice of the ripe fruits, but he then seemed to deliberately drop several them in the direction of the silverback, Neptuno.
This seemed to satisfy Neptuno, and he soon had morsels of bright yellow fruit stuck to his face as he enjoyed the obei that the youngster had gathered for him.
Elephants killed after being electrocuted when they pushed power lines into a pool of water they were drinking from. The blood is from burst blood vessels, a common symptom of electrocution.
In a tragic accident, 9 elephants have died in a freak accident after being electrocuted by power lines near Sua Pan and a village called Dukwi in Botswana.
The elephants were drinking water from a leaking pipe that supplies water to the village. They knocked down an overhead power line, which fell into the pool of water and electrocuted the elephants. The Ministry of Wildlife, Environment and Tourism has confirmed the accident and said that an investigation has been launched.
This area of Botswana has few natural sources of water once the pools of water resulting from seasonal rain have dried up, and elephants frequently seek water from water pipes and boreholes.
Botswana hosts more than one-third of Africa’s elephant population, partly due to the country’s successful wildlife conservation strategy and tourism policies, and partly due to pressure in other countries from habitat loss, poaching and human-wildlife conflict. This population represents a significant conservation resource in ongoing attempts to repopulate areas of Angola, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe. One significant hurdle to overcome is that of the provision of sufficient water, as elephants can no longer range over their historical migratory paths because of direct persecution and the rapid growth in human populations, farming activities and other development. Elephants are increasingly being marginalised into areas with insufficient water and food.
Water for Elephants Trust has an ongoing program of providing borehole water to thirsty elephants in this arid region.
What I miss most about fly-in safaris is the satisfaction of having journeyed. After all, the Swahili word ‘safari’ is derived from ‘safar’, the Arabic word for journey.
Don’t get me wrong. For time-strapped holidaymakers, flying to your lodge saves time and offers a different perspective of the bushveld. But, there’s something immensely satisfying about loading up your kit and navigating bush tracks to reach your destination.
Although most of us don’t have the equipment or experience to do this ourselves, fear not. In Botswana, you can still experience a mobile safari while others do the hard work.
In May this year, I joined a mobile safari through the Moremi Game Reserve in Botswana. You can book an entire mobile expedition for your family and friends, but, as a single traveller (my wife was holding the fort at home), I latched onto an existing expedition.
My travel companions were a German fellow (also sans his wife) and a wonderful family of five from the Dominican Republic on their annual holiday. Each year, this spirited family journeys in the real sense. They pick a destination and experience it in as granular a way as possible. They’d already slept under Namibian desert stars on this safari and driven themselves through Namibia to Botswana.
They were now on a mobile safari from Maun to Kasane, travelling through the wildlife gems of Moremi, Khwai, Savute and Chobe. I journeyed with them until Khwai, where I hopped off to spend time at a few lodges before flying back to Cape Town from Maun.
Camps that leave no trace
Let’s talk about accommodation because many people use that filter to help them decide on their next safari.
The hard-working backup crew drove ahead of us to set up camp and prepare meals. It was a fantastic feeling to arrive at a new campsite after a morning of game viewing to find our home all built and snugly ready for us.
Mobile safari camps are set up to have the least impact on the environment. Leave only footprints …
Each campsite we used was exclusively ours for that period, so there was a sense of absolute privacy that added to the appeal. You can choose between large, luxury Meru-style tents, which I enjoyed, or smaller dome-style tents, which my colleague Christian Boix thoroughly enjoyed earlier this year when he booked a mobile safari for his family.
Pictures do a better job of describing the campsite than I can. But, I will say that having stayed at many lodges of all luxury levels in my 25 years in this business, these Meru-styled mobile camps do it for me.
The inside of a typical Meru-styled mobile safari tent
Each tent has an en-suite bathroom with a bucket shower – a large canvas bag filled with water heated over a wood fire. There’s also a bush toilet: a deep hole dug in the ground, covered by a throne to remind you of home.
Once the crew dismantles your campsite, all that remains are footprints. The loo pits are filled in, and your contribution to local biodiversity is soon composted.
Each mobile safari camp has a dining area with a canvas roof
A potent digital detox
Perhaps you’re wondering about internet access? Well, once you’re clear of Maun and Kasane, there is none. This is an opportunity to detox from that incessant social media chatter. Instead, you’ll have time to tune into bush chatter: tree squirrel alarm calls, distant leopard grunts, and the perpetual burbling backing track of insects and birds.
There’s a rhythm to this mobile safari that encourages you to truly, seriously unwind. On a ten-day safari, you’ll typically be based in three or four areas for a few days each, with travel days in-between.
And, aside from the first day’s drive from Maun to Moremi, even travel days are just an extended game drive, ending at a new campsite in the early or mid-afternoon after a bush lunch along the way.
Time takes on a different meaning on a mobile safari, perhaps because you have more of it. Our guide Sam was extremely relaxed. He knew that with the ten full days at his disposal, and the wide range of habitats we’d journey through, he’d be able to show his guests all the most sought-after species, including lions, leopards and wild dogs.
And, he was right. Compare that to the unfortunate fly-in safari guides who have only a few hours a day and perhaps three days in total to deliver on a long laundry list of expectations.
Leopards are amongst the most sought-after wildlife sightings and regularly seen on mobile safarisThe Okavango is one of Africa’s lion strongholdsWild dogs are frequently seen during mobile safaris in northern Botswana
The slow safari schedule
Each day, you leave camp first thing in the morning after coffee and a light breakfast to catch the early morning ‘newspaper’ – tracks and other signs left by wildlife. After some fantastic wildlife encounters and a stop for coffee and biscuits (ask for Amarula in your coffee – yum!) you meander back to camp by late morning for brunch. This is followed by downtime and a siesta.
Late afternoon brings tea and cake before you head out for another game drive. There’ll be sundowner drinks and snacks somewhere out there. Shortly after dark, you’re back in camp for campfire stories accompanied by your favourite tipple (or two) and a delicious dinner cooked over the fire by talented bush chefs.
With heavy eyes and a full tummy, you stagger to bed. Your lullabies are sung by hyenas, lions, leopards, hippos, nightjars, and several species of owls. Yes, you may just pick up a pound or two because you’ll be pampered, bush-style, from dawn to dusk. But, you’ll also recharge your batteries and reconnect with the real you. Safari njema!
Moremi Game Reserve
Moremi makes up about 26 percent of the renowned Okavango Delta. It’s largely dedicated to self-drive tourists and mobile safari operators. It was the first reserve in Africa to be established by local residents.
The Batawana people of Ngamiland were concerned by the rapid depletion of wildlife due to uncontrolled hunting and cattle encroachment. In 1963, under the leadership of the late Chief Moremi III’s wife, they took the bold initiative to proclaim Moremi a game reserve.
The Okavango Delta comprises more than 15,000 km² of watery paradise. It’s a lush wilderness of papyrus, impenetrable reed beds, grassy floodplains, and tree-covered islands.
The complex water channel network of varying depths is engineered and maintained by hippos and elephants. Some areas are permanently underwater. Others are submerged only when the annual floodwaters arrive from Angola.
This constant ebb and flow of water creates one of the most fascinating and diverse ecosystems on the planet. Unsurprisingly, the Okavango Delta is both a RAMSAR Site and UNESCO World Heritage Site.
No safari to the Okavango Delta is complete without a mokoro outing
The Okavango Delta is not a national park, so there are fewer restrictions on activities. Off-road driving when following wildlife is allowed, as are night drives and walking safaris. Unlike the national parks, the Okavango is largely unavailable to self-drive tourists (except for the Moremi section), so your safari is likely to be private and exclusive.
A bucket list activity unique to this area is gliding down the myriad of waterways on a mokoro (a traditional dugout canoe).
Your poler guide will expertly slide the mokoro along channels surrounded by tall papyrus and reeds, giving you a unique perspective and fantastic photographic opportunities as you silently sneak up on birds, frogs, otters and possibly even larger animals such as hippos, crocodiles and elephants. A lucky few will see the elusive and wary sitatunga antelope.
Wildlife includes the Big 5 (lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and rhino), many antelope species, zebras, giraffes, hippos, and crocodiles. There are good populations of cheetahs, hyenas and wild dogs, as well as a plethora of smaller species such as serval, aardwolf, pangolin, aardvark and bat-eared fox. You will see more wildlife in areas that are not permanently flooded.
Birdwatching can be spectacular. There are over 400 species including avian jewels such as Pel’s fishing owl, slaty egret, pygmy goose, crowned and wattled cranes, western banded snake-eagle, coppery-tailed coucal and colonies of incandescent carmine bee-eaters.
For accommodation options at the best prices visit our collection of camps and lodges: private travel & conservation club. If you are not yet a member, see how to JOIN below this story.
Simon Espley is an African of the digital tribe, a chartered accountant and CEO of Africa Geographic. His travels in Africa are in search of wilderness, real people with interesting stories and elusive birds. He lives in Hoedspruit with his wife Lizz and 2 Jack Russells, and when not travelling or working, he will be on his mountain bike somewhere out there. His motto is ‘Live for now, have fun, be good, tread lightly and respect others. And embrace change.’
Cape Town is an eclectic and exciting city, and on many bucket lists. With its beautiful beaches, buzzing cosmopolitan centre, world-class wine country, spectacular scenery and dramatic coastlines; there is so much to do and see in South Africa’s ‘Mother City’.
BUT how do you combine Cape Town with a quintessential African bush safari?
Summer is a popular and busy time in Cape Town, and for good reason. Located at the southernmost tip of the African continent, the Cape has a totally different weather pattern from the rest of Africa. It has a typically Mediterranean climate which means the summer days are long, hot and dry – perfect for lazy days on the beach and sundowner drinks with a view, followed by fine dining and world-beating wines.
Find out about Cape Town for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.
And of course, no African trip is complete without that other item on the bucket-list – a bushveld safari, in pursuit of the Big 5 and plenty more exciting wildlife encounters.
But here’s the hitch: In bushveld areas, the average summer day is very hot, with thundershowers now and then. The bushveld is buzzing and alive with birds, baby animals and flowers (and mosquitoes), but animals can be difficult to see because of the thickness of the green shrubbery. Most safari enthusiasts prefer the dry cool winter months when the bushveld has thinned out and the lack of water makes wildlife concentrate near water sources and is easier to see.
So, how exactly does one combine Cape Town’s summer splendours with a wild Big 5 bushveld safari?
Here are four suggestions
Serengeti, Tanzania
The Great Wildebeest Migration is in full swing in Tanzania’s Serengeti during the first few months of the year, and you can expect exceptional sightings as the great herds are calving and the predators gorge themselves on easy pickings.
Expect high tourist volumes at predator sightings (unless you are in a private concession) and higher prices during this peak season.
Fly direct from Cape Town to Maun in Botswana in two-and-a-half-hours and step straight into your mokoro or speed boat for a spot of ‘glamping’ on a deserted Okavango Delta island paradise. Or take a short flight from Maun to any one of a number of luxury lodges.
Enjoy beautiful green bushveld and reasonable wildlife encounters (prime wildlife viewing is during the dry winter months). Expect fewer tourists and lower prices than during prime safari season.
The Cape Game Reserves of South Africa are closer to Cape Town than any other bushveld safari, and offer great wildlife opportunities to complete an idyllic beach and bush combo trip.
Hire a car in Cape Town and drive the Garden Route and Little Karoo to end up at your bushveld destination, or fly to Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth) to meet your lodge transfer. Some of these bushveld lodges offer boat trips down winding rivers for a day at the nearby idyllic beaches.
Expect more tourists and higher prices during the warm summer season than during the winter, when temperatures can be a bit chilly.
Greater Kruger National Park
The Greater Kruger National Park area offers a wide variety of lodges and bush camps. Direct flights from Cape Town to Skukuza and Hoedspruit mean that you could be on safari within hours of leaving Cape Town.
Enjoy beautiful green bushveld and good wildlife encounters in the private reserves bordering the Kruger, even during the summer months (winter months always deliver more wildlife encounters). Expect a variety of prices and fewer crowds in summer if you avoid the local school holiday periods.
I have had the great fortune of having travelled in many parts of the world and have experienced many things. This was my third trip to Africa, and second to South Africa. I can say, without a scintilla of doubt, this was the most memorable, impactful, emotional and life-altering trip of my life.
My wife, Tamara, and son, Max and I recently spent ten days in South Africa. We were fortunate enough to spend five of those days in the bush near the Kruger National Park, at a temporary camp on the beautiful property of Mr James Campbell, with eight other YPO families and a cadre of world-class resources.
The enthusiasm, optimism, construction and progress that we experienced first-hand while spending time with everyday South Africans was contagious. As Max commented, “I think they may be some of the happiest and most content people in the world!”
Our trip was hosted by my friend, Dex Kotze, a fellow YPOer from South Africa. Dex is a businessman, an activist, a philanthropist, educator, thought-leader and an amazing husband and father. He operates his own NGO, Youth 4 African Wildlife, an educational organisation dedicated to teaching young people about the conservation of wild animals in Africa. For this experience, Dex had partnered with Elephants Alive and other NGOs and reserves and, with the help of the incredible Annie Sowden, he put together a program dedicated to education, adventure and camaraderie.
The YPO Experience
In total, we were nine YPO families, joined by the most compelling group of talented people imaginable. These included everyone from world-class park rangers and guides to scientists, researchers, philanthropist land-owners, activists, a world-class eco-journalist, wildlife vets, adventurers and two of the most insane helicopter pilots I’ve ever seen (have you ever seen a Robinson 44 fly in reverse while chasing after a rhino with a vet hanging out the side holding his dart gun!?).
We camped together, drank coffee at dawn around the fire together, drove in search of elephants and rhinos together, walked through the African wild tracking lions together and, most compellingly, participated hands-on in tracking, collaring and tagging wild elephants and rhinos together. And of course, we had ourselves a few ‘proper’ G&Ts at sundown around the campfire together.
All along, we learned about every aspect of the nature around us, from the water to the vegetation, from the trees to the insects and every other type of wild animal around us.
We had the opportunity of having one of the pre-eminent eco-journalists in Africa, Ian Michler, present with us on the trip. Ian, the creator of Blood Lions – a film about canned lion hunts – and I shared several ‘proper’ gin and tonics during the week and explored all aspects of environmentalism – from philosophical to political to economical. It was indeed an honour and a pleasure to spend time with him.
When I say this was a hands-on week, I mean just that. Dex and the scientists created the opportunity for us to do things that we will likely never again be able to do. To see the rangers and helicopter pilots rave about what we were doing and talk about how unique the experiences were, even for them, was an indication of the job that Dex and his team had done.
Just a sampling of some of my own experiences from the trip: I pulled the satellite collar around elephant necks, helped lift and move elephant and rhino limbs to make it possible to take anatomical measurements, milked an elephant for scientific purposes, injected an elephant with the antidote for the anaesthetic dart, removed a DNA sample from the drill bit shavings of a rhino horn, helped to place a tag into a rhino horn, and much, much more. All of this in the wild, on tens of thousands of acres of continuous fence-free land linking to the Kruger Park.
Along the way, we learned and witnessed firsthand the range of humanity’s severe impact on the environment. We learned about the impact of human encroachment on the wilderness. We learned about the economics of poaching. We saw, firsthand, the gut-wrenching result of poaching, where the world’s most magnificent animals are illegally shot and killed and left as food for vultures so that their horn can be ground up and used for mythical medicinal purposes somewhere far away.
We met and spent time with landowners and their team of anti-poaching rangers who are spending significant sums of money out of their own pockets to buy, protect and care for contiguous property that extends Kruger National Park through private land ownership, remove fences in between and pay for them to be patrolled so that future generations can view the planet in its raw form.
What we saw, in my view, was not the triumph of government but the triumph of individuals who have come together voluntarily, spending their time, money and resources, not to suck every last dollar of value out of the land through development, but in fact to protect and preserve it and its inhabitants.
At the same time, all of these individuals show a deep and genuine commitment to the local population. They hire locally, invest locally and are doing their best to add economic value through training and education of the local communities. They understand deeply that these are not political issues. These are issues of right and wrong and basic humanity. These are issues about the present and the future of human-wildlife coexistence.
For example, one James Campbell – a man who grew up as a potato farmer in Ireland, only to end up on the board of directors of De Beers and Anglo American. In the years between picking potatoes and attending De Beers board meetings, he talked his way into Cambridge University, became a scientist and a geologist, got to know people at the highest levels of business and government, got involved with multiple businesses, and finally became a private reserve owner in a large block near Kruger – where he lives out his dream of being a conservationist.
We met and spent time in the bush and around the fire with Craig Spencer – a park ranger and the founder of the Black Mambas, an all-female local anti-poaching crew. Craig and his team oversee an extensive area of land (40,000 hectares if I remember correctly) and are in charge of protecting it from the barrage of poachers who are intent on ridding his land of its most magnificent inhabitants.
To say that he is a larger-than-life, charismatic personality is to diminish what it’s like to spend time with him. I am not sure if I have laughed harder recently than I did listening to Craig’s tales of his adventures and regaling his bush stories. He is a man from a different time and a different place. A man with the mannerism of a classic British private school education, but the look of a park ranger who has no problem spending a few nights out in the bush with nothing but a couple of blankets and a knife (and one who has never met a barber that he liked).
I will never forget when, in the immediate conclusion of tagging a particularly large rhino (after he had finished drilling a hole in the rhino’s horn so that the microchip can be dropped in), he took a couple of steps back, wiped the sweat off his forehead and then reached into his pocket, pulled out a pipe, filled it, lit it and began smoking it as if he was in some after-dinner gentlemen’s club in London 100 years ago. Classically, while taking puffs from his pipe, I watched him as he walked away from us while muttering something under his breath about how these magnificent animals “don’t stand an f&#ing chance against these f&#ing killers who don’t give a f#%& …”.
While Craig’s competence and confidence were mixed with the wit and humour of a comedian, our other rangers displayed theirs with good cheer, humility, a more quiet charisma, and an equal passion for every aspect of their surroundings. Led by Sean Pattrick, a published author, naturalist and anti-poaching expert with the body of a rhino and the calm personality of a Buddhist monk, these men and women never ceased to amaze us with the depth and breadth of their knowledge.
There was not a question, whether brilliant or not (lots of those) that they did not answer with depth, patience and expertise. Sean and his team were a world of knowledge, entertainment and observations.
But what was most striking about all of our rangers was the almost bizarre combination of their obvious physical strength, humility, respect and passion for the wildlife around them, as well as the sheer depth and breadth of their scientific knowledge about everything from termites and ants, to elephants and giraffe (and every living thing in between). These were the kinds of genuine, humble and intellectually curious people whom I would be proud to have the opportunity to call “my friends”.
I will never forget tracking a lion on foot with Max and a few others, led by guides Sean and Quentin. Max and I walked behind Sean and Dex and watched Sean pick up the hundreds of different tracks over soft and hard surfaces while attempting to get into the lion’s head to figure out where it would’ve walked or under which bush it would’ve crossed. To watch him pick out the lion track amongst a plethora of marks in the dirt was pure magic.
Walking with these guys through the rugged African environment looking for a lion is an experience that one can’t easily forget. The level of harmony that they have achieved with their surroundings, including their understanding of the behaviour of these animals means that actual violent interaction between them and the animals is virtually non-existent and unnecessary.
Although one certainly can’t help but feel exposed while walking amongst the dead grass, the bushes and the rocks, not knowing where a lion could be lying perfectly camouflaged, the confidence and competence of our guides was all that we needed to take in everything around us.
The ability of our guides to pick up on the smallest signals, the tiniest indentation in the sand, the wet portion of a small branch or some broken stalks of grass, and use those pieces to put together the puzzle of what animals were in front of us, where they went and what they were doing, was magic in motion.
The realities of Africa
The single most sombre and emotional experience of our trip came the next day when a group of us hiked from the camp to find a rhino that had been killed by poachers the day before. We had to wait a full day because the location of the kill is considered a crime scene that needs to be investigated by the authorities.
We discovered that the poachers had escaped without the horn, probably because they had heard or seen the anti-poaching units coming towards them.
As you can see, by the time we followed the vultures to the carcass, the lions, hyenas and vultures had mostly eaten the whole animal (the white marks are the droppings from the vultures). As we got closer and closer to where the vultures told us the body of the rhino lay, the mood of the group got more grave and sombre. Grave, because we all knew there could still be lions hanging around the carcass, and sombre because we all knew we would soon come face to face with the reality of the purpose of our entire trip.
Walking up to the site of the rhino carcass was, in fact, as emotional and challenging as one can imagine. What made it more difficult was seeing the genuine sadness and anger of our rangers, at their helplessness. As Craig told me: “Look, I am not used to losing. I’m not used to being helpless. It just drives me mad to realise that I can’t stop this.”
This was not the end, however. Less than 24 hours later we learned that two pregnant rhino cows were killed less than two kilometres from our camp, likely by the same poachers who had not been able to get the horns from the first rhino. Tragically, the pregnant cows were killed and their horns removed. Their unborn calves do not get counted in the statistics, nor will any of the rhino calves that will never be conceived or born from those two dead cows.
The dedicated teams
In addition to the landowners, the rangers and the helicopter pilots – all of whom displayed an incredible command of their craft – we spent time with three of the most impressive and charismatic scientists I’ve ever met in my life: Drs. Cobus Raath, Peter Rogers, and Michelle Henley. These guys led a team of students, volunteers and professionals in what can only be described as Africa’s version of Formula 1 pit stop.
Being with these professionals and seeing them lean out of helicopters to fire darts, land the helicopters in an area the size of a couple of parking spots amongst trees and rocks, jump out of Land Rovers and helicopters to stabilise the animals with fascinating techniques (folding the ears of the elephant over their eyes or keeping their trunks open with a couple of small sticks) – and then within a few minutes take DNA samples, physiological and biological measurements, inject the animals with an antidote and run away and watch while, within a couple of minutes these animals awaken, stand up and walk away, is not something that any of us will ever forget.
We were so incredibly fortunate to be allowed to help in such a hands-on manner, literally working side by side with these professionals on the 13 large animals that we collared and tagged. That privilege was given to us by these scientists who, in their role as team leaders, saw the benefits of involving us in such an intimate and practical manner. As someone on the trip said, these scientists were simply poetry in motion. Watching them direct the teams, in an environment of total controlled chaos, while patiently answering every last question was unforgettable. Their passion for protecting these animals is an inspiration for all of us who may at one point or another seek a higher purpose in what we do. That, in and of itself, was a critical takeaway from this past week.
Finally, I must say a word about my old friend Dex Kotze and my new YPO friends with whom I had the pleasure of sharing the experiences of the past week. I want to say thank you for allowing all of us to experience your backyard in a manner that very few ever have or ever will. The pictures speak for themselves, but the memories and the lessons will be unique to each of us individually. We each know what our take-away was from the past week.
I will hang this experience like another ornament on the Christmas tree of life, and will fondly look back at it often. I will do so because I don’t want to forget the emotional connections we made with each other and with the animals, and want to remember them when the mundanity of everyday life inevitably rears its head.
Watch a video of this incredible, once-in-a-lifetime conservation experience below:
Dan Afrasiabi is President and CEO at Geneva Woods Health Care Services and member of the YPO Pacific and the US at large chapters. He has found a special place in his heart for African conservation efforts and is now a lifetime ambassador for Mother Africa.
Written, and photographs, by Edward Selfe (Safari guide and photo safari specialist)
I have just finished a photographic safari in South Luangwa with Clive and Sue Ferreira from South Africa who booked their safari with Africa Geographic Travel.
They were looking forward to great wildlife sightings and the remote seclusion offered by the Nsefu Sector, and I believe that Luangwa delivered on both! It was a pleasure to take them on safari and show them around South Luangwa National Park in Zambia.
Here’s what Clive had to say of the trip:
“I had a good and instructive time and you certainly have a good eye and know the Canon 1DX well. This was a huge unexpected bonus in addition to you knowing your territory so well and sharing with me your intimate knowledge of the Luangwa bush. I learnt a lot more of my camera and clearly need to practise my fingers with all the new sets of skills. That was a huge bonus and I am eternally grateful.”
Here follows a photographic rundown of the safari:
I will be back in the Nsefu Sector in a couple of weeks’ time running several private photographic safaris with new and returning Africa Geographic Travel clients and once more based out of Zikomo.
It is a privilege and a joy to be able to spend so much time in this magical area, and I am elated to be able to offer this unique and affordable photographic safari alternatives to both SADC and international photographers.
For accommodation options at the best prices visit our collection of camps and lodges: private travel & conservation club. If you are not yet a member, see how to JOIN below this story.
Labelled the butterflies of the sea, we often ask ourselves why are marine flatworms so vibrantly coloured? Is it simply that they can be, therefore they are? Or is there a deeper significance?
The answer is made all the more mysterious because they technically do not see in colour as they don’t have ‘eyes’ with retina and cones, though they do have patches of cells that can detect light and may be able to differentiate between some wavelengths of light.
Some flatworms take up pigments from what they eat, while others because of selection pressures for mimicry (such as mimicking a nudibranch mollusc) and camouflage – increasing their chances of survival and reproduction.
This probably plays a large part in the colour combinations that we see, but as yet we still do not know the exact answer and can only be grateful for their presence because the resulting colours are a pure delight!
Flatworms get their name because they are just that – flat worms. They have very primitive bodies, no internal body cavity, very few organs, they breathe by simple diffusion of gases and digest their food through direct contact, having first excreted digestive juices onto their food.
Many of the marine flatworms are beautiful and free-living, in stark contrast to the more numerous species of dowdy flatworms that live as parasites inside the bodies of other animals.
Flatworms are very small, most of them between 10 – 50mm in length, and usually less than 1mm thick – making them extremely delicate. Being so flat they are very mobile and can squeeze into many crevices, making them hard to spot.
Occasionally they can be found swimming, very inefficiently, by undulating the edges of their flat bodies.
Flatworms are hermaphrodites (they have both male and female reproductive organs), and mating flatworms engage in penis wars (better known as ‘penis fencing’). The first to penetrate their mate releases sperm, forcing the other to nurture the fertilised eggs.
Have you ever heard of nudibranchs? The Mafia Island Marine Park in Tanzania is host to a wide diversity of corals, fish, invertebrates and vertebrates. In fact the diversity was one of the reasons that it was first protected as a fisheries reserve in the 1970s.
Now it is a fully gazetted marine park and a fabulous place to dive, with the water temperature around 26 – 29ºC. This area is a great place for warm-water species as it survived the last coral bleaching event remarkably well with rapid recovery to the vibrancy and pre-bleaching colours and diversity.
The marine park is the home of giants and magnificent marine critters. The big fish dives with giant groupers, giant oceanic manta rays, giant moray eels, and great barracuda are exciting, but do they compare with treasure hunting for nudibranchs?
Nudibranchs (the naked gills) are molluscs, the flamboyant snails of the ocean. Their colours and shapes are stunning, and their multiple forms elegant and striking.
Searching for a new one becomes addictive!
Nudibranchs are often found exquisitely stationed on rocky outcrops, sentinel to the life going on around them, camouflaged or vibrant in opposition to the background colour. Finding a nudibranch is a treat – finding one that you have never seen before an even bigger treat!
Mating nudibranchs are not often seen. They are hermaphrodites and to mate they align themselves right sides together to pierce each other with their penis-like structure resulting in exchange of eggs and sperm. They can do this even in raging currents.
Carnivorous nudibranchs are occasionally found eating one of their kind. Hunting nudibranchs can be found perched and poised to pounce.
Nudibranchs are usually found stationary but occasionally they can be found on the move. To join the current and relocate their muscular foot lets go of its attachment to the coral to roll in the current, paragliding to another destination sometimes helped by a stone and slime anchor that moderates their descent
They are mostly solitary, doing their own thing, though sometimes they can be found in tandem.
Some photographers have a knack of capturing the very moment when nature is showing off the most. That moment could be the supreme magnificence of a huge male lion in full flight or that regal stare of a bateleur eagle. It could be that delicate blend of consternation and inquisitiveness as the aardwolf notices you for the first time or the delicacy of a waxbill sipping water from its mirror reflection. John Vosloo, our Photographer of the Year 2017 winner, is one such photographer. He is living proof that a picture is worth a thousand words, that amateur photography has risen to the heights once occupied exclusively by professionals.
Join us in celebrating Africa’s incredible richness through the lens of this passionate story-teller.
Hong Kong has always been regarded as the epicentre of the global wildlife trade. It appears however that this trade is not adequately controlled by authorities and may lead many species to the brink of extinction.
Unfortunately, many news headlines announce illegal elephant ivory and rhino horn trade being processed through Hong Kong’s borders. Many other threatened animals are caught up in this illegal trade as well, from pangolins and turtles, to wrasse and even hippos – hippo teeth contain ivory, and carvings made from the teeth are cheaper than elephant ivory.
The findings from the study reveal that CITES trade records show that there are discrepancies in the volume of hippo teeth declared by exporters and importers in Hong Kong. Since 1975, Hong Kong has processed 90% of the 770,000kg of hippo teeth that have been traded internationally.
Two countries in Africa stand out as jointly providing 75% of hippo ivory into Hong Kong: Tanzania and Uganda.
Tanzania joined CITES in 1980, and it is the duty of a CITES party to report accurate trade numbers in threatened species. However, since 1980, an amount of 3,176kg of hippo teeth over the declared export amount from Tanzania has been received by Hong Kong. In addition, Uganda, which joined CITES in 1991, has completed 19 trade transactions with Hong Kong, but according to the trade records, Hong Kong has received less hippo ivory than declared by Uganda.
These figures amount to discrepancies in the volume of trade of over 14,000kg of hippo ivory – about 2,700 individual hippos.
Hippo teeth are carved into ivory ornaments. Photo credit: Peripitus/HKU
Hippos are listed as Vulnerable by the IUCN, and they predict that over the next 30 years the population will decrease by 30%. Over-exploitation and the illegal trade of hippo teeth are some of the reasons for the decline in population, along with habitat loss and climate change. The IUCN also says that with the rate at which population decline is going, hippos could be extinct within the next 100 years.
To prevent further mismanagement of threatened species, the study looks to the authorities, urging them to increase their efforts in checking trade numbers on imports and exports, and working together to report any discrepancies and signs of illegal trade.
If nothing is done, and this sort of mismanagement continues, then hippos and many other species are ultimately headed for extinction sooner than we think.
Hippo teeth products for sale in an ivory shop in Sheung Wan, Hong Kong. Photo credit: Alexandra Andersson/HKU
Aptly named the ‘King of Beasts’, lions are an iconic African wildlife species and are often high up on many travellers’ list of things to see when visiting Africa.
However, despite their popularity with tourists, they are not as common as one might imagine, and sightings are never guaranteed. A century ago there were as many as 200,000 wild lions in Africa, but the current estimate is of 20,000 lions, over 20% of their former range. Read more about lions here: The African Lion
For the best chance of seeing lions in the wild, it would be advisable to head to one of Africa’s ‘lion hotspots’.
Here are a few of the top places to see wild lions in Africa:
1. Mara-Serengeti Ecosystem
Stretching over 24,000 km² from the Serengeti in Tanzania to the Maasai Mara in Kenya, the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem is home to one of the highest densities of lions in the world.
Within this area, the Serengeti National Park in Tanzania boasts the oldest lion research project in Africa, The Serengeti Lion Project, which has been operating for nearly 50 years. In addition, expect good lion encounters in the Ngorongoro Crater, on the fringes of the Serengeti ecosystem. Outside of the Serengeti area, another excellent place in Tanzania to see lions is the remote Ruaha National Park. This arid, baobab-infested safari paradise offers remote safaris for the intrepid explorer.
Across the border in Kenya, the wide-open savannah plains of the Maasai Mara National Reserve make for excellent lion viewing of large prides that are accustomed to tourist vehicles. The Mara lions have been made famous by the popular BBC TV series, Big Cat Diaries.
2. Northern Botswana
From dry savannahs to lush wetlands, northern Botswana has it all, and lions abound in this vast wild wilderness. These lions have adapted to their varied environments and have a wide range of prey species, from elephants and hippos to buffaloes and impala. And in the harsh dry winters when water is scarce, lions even compete with crocodiles to scavenge on rotting carcasses. Okavango Delta lions swim between islands and negotiate channels and floodplains during the annual flood season (June to August) in search of prey.
The Okavango Delta (and Moremi Game Reserve) hosts the largest lion population in the world, but also expect to see lions in the adjoining Chobe, Savute, Linyanti and Khwai areas in the unfenced wilderness of northern Botswana. In fact, further south in Botswana, the Kalahari and Tuli also host good lion populations.
The Greater Kruger is South Africa’s premier wildlife destination and is home to the majority of the country’s wild lions. The Kruger National Park is the size of Wales and is made larger because of unfenced western borders with various private game reserves, including Klaserie, Sabi Sand. Thornybush and Timbavati (famous for its naturally occurring population of white lions) – collectively known as the ‘Greater Kruger’.
Lions occur in all areas of the park, but they can be tough to find in the more remote northern areas. The large open plains of the central areas, and prey density further south, mean that more lions are seen in these areas.
4. Northern Namibia
Namibia’s lion population is spread across the northern reaches of this arid country, with Etosha National Park hosting the most easily accessible population. Etosha lions are best viewed in the dry winter months, and the best strategy to view them is to park at one of many waterholes and wait for them to come to you.
Perhaps the most fascinating Namibian lions are the desert-adapted lions, which occur in the remote Kaokoland/Damaraland region of the northwest, an area of sand dunes and sparse vegetation, wedged between Etosha and the barren Skeleton Coast. These formidable lions eke out a living despite the harsh landscape, low prey density and conflicts with farmers.
The best time to view the desert-adapted lions is during the dry winter season (June to October). During this time, they can be found hunting around the sparse water sources or lazing about in the open, soaking up the morning sun.
5. Luangwa Valley, Zambia
Zambia’s Luangwa Valley hosts the majority of that country’s lion population.
The Luangwa Valley is the birthplace of African walking safaris – a very special wildlife experience for any safari enthusiast. Encountering wild lions whilst on foot with an experienced guide is one of Africa’s quintessential safari experiences.
South Luangwa National Park, particularly, offers incredible lion viewing opportunities, with frequent sightings of large prides of up to 30 lions. The smaller, more remote North Luangwa also offers excellent lion sightings, for the more intrepid traveller.
Elsewhere in Zambia, Kafue National Park is a good place to see lions, particularly in the Busanga Plains area – a vast open floodplain system in the north of the park.
6. Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe
Hwange hosts a large population of lions and prey species – including large herds of buffalo, a favourite item on the menu. Zimbabwe’s largest national park offers excellent lion habitat – including grass plains, deciduous woodlands and thorn savannah, and the network of waterholes provides good positioning for tourists wishing to experience a lion kill. Just a short drive from Victoria Falls, Hwange is a convenient add-on to your southern African safari.
For camps & lodges at the best prices and our famous ready-made safari packages, log into our app. If you do not yet have our app see the instructions below this story.
The first three-day online rhino horn auction came to a close this past Friday and has been met with “disappointing” results, according to South African rhino farmer, John Hume.
Hume, who owns a rhino farm in Johannesburg, blamed the last-minute issuing of the auction sale permit by Environmental Affair Minister Edna Molewa, leaving potential bidders less than two days to sign up and pay the R100,000 registration fee to gain access to the online auction.
The auction website – that was translated into Chinese and Vietnamese – advertised 264 rhino horns up for auction (almost 500kgs) and was catered toward both local and foreign buyers.
His lawyers released a formal statement from Hume stating, “The auction yielded fewer bidders and fewer sales than anticipated‚ but the legal domestic trade has now been re-established and the road has been paved for future sales”.
He continued, saying that “no longer will rhino need to be killed for their horn. No longer shall the supply come exclusively from dead rhino. From this day live rhino shall become more valuable than dead rhino. Despite government bullying tactics and illogical unsustainable animal rights propaganda‚ we will continue our fight to bring this dark trade into the light in order to conserve our rhinos”.
The names of the buyers, along with the prices the horns were sold at, will not be published. However, according to Hume’s lawyers, “all bidders were duly authorised to participate in the auction and were issued with legally required permits to participate”.
Hume owns 1,500 rhinos on his farm in South Africa, and harvests the horns on a regular basis. He says the method of removing the horns are humane and painless, placing the rhino under sedation while carefully sawing the horn off at a point where it allows for natural regrowth. He also says that this method wards off poachers.
The sungazer – a name that would fit that of a mighty dragon! Well, technically it does, as its scientific name is Smaug giganteus – a wonderful reference to Smaug the dragon in Tolkien’s The Hobbit. And the resemblance to Daenerys Targaryen’s dragon children in Game of Thrones is almost uncanny.
But that is where the fantasy world ends for the rare sungazer lizards, and reality begins.
NOTE: Sungazer lizards do not make good pets, and it is illegal to keep them in captivity.
Why sungazers are endangered
It can be summed up in one word: Humans. In South Africa, the only country where this lizard occurs naturally, the constant increase in human population means that more land is being transformed to meet agricultural, residential and transport needs. These are primary contributors to their habitat fragmentation – not to mention worldwide biodiversity loss. The construction of roads, pipelines and electricity infrastructure are the major culprits.
However, it doesn’t end there. Sungazers are used in the Sotho and Zulu practice of traditional medicine to make love potions. And reptile collectors and others LEGALLY keep them as pets and exhibits. Note that the keeping of these reptiles is legal in South Africa only if you have a permit. 1194 live sungazers were legally exported overseas, to 15 countries, between the years of 1985 – 2014.
There is a much darker side; a side that stokes the fire of the urgency of conservation management initiatives. Sungazers have also become victim of the ILLEGAL pet trade. Highly sought after all over the world because of their dragon-like appearance, these stunning creatures have been reduced to nothing more than a commodity traded for financial gain.
The sungazer lizard is endemic to the Highveld grasslands of the Free State and Mpumalanga provinces of South Africa. Interestingly, these lizards live in burrows underground, as opposed to around rocks like many other members of their family.
It’s clear that conservation management initiatives need to be implemented to avoid eradication of the sungazer. It can’t be denied that this isn’t a simple task, as the continued development of societal infrastructure and money to be made from illegal harvesting are ever-present.
It’s time to use social media to our advantage. Popular platforms such as Facebook and Instagram are habitually used to advertise sales of sungazers. Experts need to ensure that they are familiar with the jargon and overall “language” of social media. This has #GOT to happen!
Efforts need to be intensified to find a successful translocation method from areas under development to safe alternative areas. Yes, this will be difficult, considering that living in artificial burrows is not their nature, but that is where scientifically sound practical solutions have to be found.
If action isn’t taken now, then unlike Game of Thrones, they won’t be able to renew for another season.
The magic of Mana Pools Mana Pools National Park in Zimbabwe is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a RAMSAR site of international importance. However, besides these titles, there is a special magic that lives here that safari-goers often describe as ‘the magic of Mana’.
Perhaps it’s the setting on the biodiversity-rich floodplains of the mighty Zambezi River. Or perhaps it’s the opportunity for up close and personal walking and canoeing safaris – and the chance for those once-in-a-lifetime game sightings.
Whatever it is, we on the AG team were lucky enough to experience the ‘magic of Mana’ vicariously through some incredible entries into our Photographer of the Year 2017 competition. All of the images in this gallery were taken in Mana Pools, and for us, they convey that special magic that exists only there. The chance to see it and experience it in real life would indeed be magical.
For camps & lodges at the best prices and our famous ready-made safari packages, log into our app. If you do not yet have our app see the instructions below this story.
One of the most pressing and challenging issues currently facing African conservation is ensuring that elephants and other wildlife can coexist peacefully with humans.
In southern Tanzania, as in many other African places, this relates largely to elephants leaving their national park homes to forage among crops in nearby human settlements.
Not only is this a threat to the local villages’ livelihoods, but it is also a potential threat to elephant populations as the culprit elephants are often killed as a result.
While this is a complex issue, as is the case for most issues relating to African conservation, here we will attempt to break it down using references and examples from the following pertinent article and study – and find out just why killing them won’t solve the problem. These examples are specifically relevant to southern Tanzania and, thanks to the work of the Southern Tanzania Elephant Program, we now have a better understanding of the elephant behavioural patterns relating to this activity in the region.
What causes elephants to eat crops?
The first step to understanding the issue as a whole is to consider why these elephants would choose to venture astray from their natural food sources in the first place. Considering that there are plenty of food sources in the region (including Udzungwa and Selous), there is more than simply diet to consider.
Interestingly, it was found, in the study of Smit et al, that all of the elephants captured by camera traps in the crop fields were male. This is quite a significant finding, given the number of elephants in the region. It was also found, going by the age range of the elephants recorded on the camera traps, that the behaviour of leaving natural feeding grounds to forage elsewhere can be linked to certain milestones in the lives of elephant bulls. These milestones are:
♦ The start of reproduction in bulls, at ages 20-30 years
♦ The reproductive peak of bull elephants at around 40 years old
The relationship between the fact that only males were found foraging in the crop fields, and their age ranges, lies in the fact that bull elephants are seeking high-risk, high-reward behaviour at this stage of their lives. Their willingness to take risks to meet their increased energy demands makes the crop fields attractive to the bulls – not only as a source of food but also as a means of engaging in high-risk, high-reward behaviour, which is necessary for the bull’s development at this stage.
An additional bonus for the bulls is that the distances they have to travel to obtain this risky food source are significantly shortened because of the close proximity of the outer-lying crop fields to the national parks. So, the bulls are lucky to have these crop fields as a convenient source of food and adrenaline – but the impact on the livelihood of the human settlements is significant enough to warrant retaliation and further disrupt peaceful coexistence.
These findings from the camera traps are a fantastic example of how using patient and calculated scientific methods has led to a deeper understanding of animal behaviour, which, in this case, can be used to aid the coexistence between elephants and humans. Crop foraging is a primary obstacle to peaceful coexistence, so it’s important to gain a deeper understanding of not only why it happens but also what to do about it.
In their study, Smit et al. found a high degree of variation in crop foraging among individuals, with most bulls venturing sporadically and infrequently into the crop fields. This is an important finding in relation to prevention strategies because it means that the legal or condoned killing of these bulls as ‘Problem Animal Control’ would result in a higher number of individual bulls being killed – a significant loss for a species already under major threat from poaching in the area. It also means that killing individuals as retaliation to incidents is unlikely to affect crop loss, as many individuals are foraging at irregular intervals.
Further, killing these bulls would mean that the herd loses important breeding individuals, affecting its population dynamics and structure. If the bulls were to continue being killed, the young would potentially lose a vital source of social, behavioural, and ecological knowledge.
Thankfully, there are more effective, non-lethal strategies that have been proven to curb crop losses and the subsequent devastating killing of elephant bulls. For example, in an ongoing study in Kenya, the use of beehive fences has been shown to have an 80% success rate in keeping elephants out of the nearby farmlands – and, what’s more, the community was also able to benefit from the sale of ‘elephant friendly’ honey.
The use of beehive fences is a good example of land-use consideration in community conservation efforts. A negative spin-off of land use inconsideration, together with rapidly growing human populations, has been the destruction of natural wildlife corridors. Therefore, it is now appropriate to consider mitigation efforts more carefully and sustainably.
Finally
Ultimately, it’s about ensuring the peaceful coexistence of humans and elephants in close proximity. Science has helped us understand these complex issues so that we can develop science-backed strategies and solutions—in this case, non-lethal strategies that promote peace.
On the surface, the upcoming legal auction of rhino horn set to begin on August 21 might appear to be a harmless propaganda exercise, but it may in fact signal a deepening of the rhino crisis. Written by Peter Knights, co-founder and CEO of WildAid
The domestic market for rhino horn in South Africa is small, and history shows that criminals will exploit all possible loopholes to obtain horn for trafficking to markets abroad. Further, the track record of South Africa’s Department of Environmental Affairs (DEA) in regulating legal trade in rhino horn does not instill confidence.
The recent rhino poaching crisis was triggered about a decade ago as new uses for horn – and new ways of obtaining horn – emerged in Vietnam. Vietnamese criminals, working with South African hunters, realised that they could import rhino “hunting trophies” into Vietnam with little or no oversight. This was replicated in China and provided a means for traffickers to supply horns to East Asian markets. The practice, now known as “pseudo-hunting,” was allowed to continue for years without action from the DEA. Although the commercial sale of hunting trophies was prohibited, South African authorities had no way to regulate what was done with trophy horns once they left the country. This will also be the case with horns purchased at auction.
Between 20 and 25% of South Africa’s rhinos are in the possession of private rhino owners, many of whom have stockpiled large quantities of horn from natural deaths and de-horning live rhinos. They portray the forthcoming horn auction as strictly for South Africa-based buyers and, therefore, within the law. Yet the auction has been advertised in Chinese and Vietnamese, leading to confusion and arousing suspicion. These mixed messages have caused the DEA to issue a statement reaffirming that international trade in rhino horn remains banned.
A moratorium on domestic horn sales was in effect in South Africa from 2009 until it was overturned earlier this year upon legal challenge from private owners. Before the moratorium, an average of only 100 kilograms of horns were sold domestically each year, according to a 2014 DEA report. While the figure was believed to be a low estimate, it is agreed that the domestic market is small, with limited demand for horn. Therefore, there is little to gain financially from an auction targeted solely at domestic bidders.
Previous sales before the moratorium indicate that horns will likely be trafficked abroad. The same 2014 DEA report includes information from seven unnamed private rhino owners who sold horns before the 2009 moratorium. One stated that the buyers were Chinese and that s/he suspected that the horns were taken to China. Three others indicated suspicions that the horns purchased had been smuggled out of the country to be traded on the black market. The three remaining sellers were “unsure” of what happened to their horns.
By opening a “domestic” trade in rhino horn with this auction, there is a real threat that, without credible enforcement, these horns will fuel the rampant international trade and sustain the poaching crisis. While rhino poaching has started to decline slightly in South Africa, far too many rhinos are being killed for their horns. In recent years, more than 1,000 of the country’s remaining 20,000 rhinos have been lost to poachers annually, and high-level traffickers continue to evade prosecution.
At the opposite end of the trade chain, campaigns to reduce rhino demand in Asia have shown signs of progress. Horns are now being sold at around one-third of previously reported levels. Opening up a new source of horn through “domestic” auctions in South Africa may well re-stimulate consumer demand, just as “pseudo-hunting” did before it.
At this critical moment for Africa’s rhinos, we would do well to remember the hard lesson learned from legal ivory sales. Although intended to satiate Asian demand, legal ivory sales ignited it instead. About 30,000 African elephants are killed each year for their ivory as the international community attempts to correct its mistake.
Conservationists fear that most of the rhino horn sold at the upcoming “domestic” auction will be taken out of the country. Sellers must also be aware of this, and the DEA must be extremely naive to think that the bidders will be buying purely for the domestic market. We should acknowledge the presence of the rhino in the room and recognise the proposed auction for what it is: the first stage of a wider plan to legalise the export of rhino horn, a plan that the DEA has already put in motion.
Private commercial considerations have been elevated over conserving wildlife, which is evident in almost all DEA decisions. The commercial tail continues to wag the policy dog at the expense of Africa’s rhinos.
So often, we hear from the pro-hunting lobby that by killing free-roaming lions, trophy hunters are actually saving lions. Well, if my aunt had balls she’d be my uncle. The term “sustainable offtake” often creeps into the justification. The trophy hunting of free-roaming lions is about as sustainable as putting ice cubes in a mug of steaming coffee. Let’s dig deeper into this issue of sustainability, shall we?
Consider the following six examples of why the trophy hunting of free-roaming lions is NOT sustainable – from the very countries held high by the trophy hunting industry itself as being paragons of sustainable hunting practices:
1. The Namibian government does not know how many breeding-age desert-adapted lions are left, how many territory/pride males there are, or even how many of each sex are killed during human-lion conflict. They told me so – see this article written by me. And yet each year they set trophy hunting quotas for large male desert-adapted lions. The awarding of trophy hunting quotas off the back of no relevant statistics is NOT sustainable.
2. Namibian laws permit rural livestock owners to request for the lethal removal of predators targeting their livestock – so-called ‘problem animals’. Fair enough. BUT trophy hunters are often used to perform the execution, and we know that trophy hunters want to shoot big male lions. And communities benefit financially when ‘problem animals’ are identified and taken down by hunters. Is it a coincidence then that there is a large bias towards male lions amongst those lions reported as being ‘problem animals’, and consequently executed by trophy hunters?
In the last scientific research report on Namibia’s desert-adapted lions, published in 2010, the author states, when referring to six collared male lions killed by trophy hunters as ‘problem animals’: “In all six cases, however, it is arguable whether the adult males that were shot, were in fact the lions responsible for the killing of livestock.”
This gap in legislation – empowering the two beneficiaries of ‘problem animal’ execution to act as witness, jury, judge and executioner – is NOT sustainable.
3. The above report concluded: “The long-term viability of the desert lion population has been compromised by the excessive killing of adult and sub-adult males. There is an urgent need to adapt the management and utilisation strategies relating to lions if the long-term conservation of the species in the Kunene were to be secured.”
Since then the situation has worsened as regards male lion offtake, with some areas now almost devoid of male lions. Even the last known adult male lion in the Sesfontein Conservancy was earmarked to be shot – again conveniently classified as a ‘problem animal’ – until international pressure forced the Minister to change his mind. A rapidly reducing male/female lion ratio is NOT sustainable.
4. Craig Packer, director of the Lion Research Center at the University of Minnesota, has led a series of studies identifying overhunting as the major reason for the steep decline in lion populations in Tanzania, the lion-hunting mecca. Packer was banned from entering Tanzania for exposing corruption regarding lion trophy hunting.
Being tagged as the cause of crashing lion populations makes trophy hunting of lions in Tanzania NOT sustainable, and the widespread use of fraud and corruption as a business tool suggests a morally bankrupt industry. Read our interview with Craig Packer here.
5. When 13-year-old Cecil the lion was shot in Zimbabwe, the overriding justification was that he was ‘too old’ to breed or to successfully hold a territory (as if those are the only uses of a mature lion). Then, Cecil’s son, Xanda, was also shot by a hunter, at the age of six – and the professional hunter Richard Cooke knew that Xanda was a pride male with cubs, and lied about the situation. In fact, Cooke also led the hunt that killed Xanda’s other son – at the age of four.
So, lions of all ages are being shot, and the trophy hunting industry lies and re-invents the justifications each time to suit their need to keep the business model rolling. That is NOT sustainable.
6. Rural communities living amongst wild lions have to see meaningful and sustainable benefit from having lions in the area. Lions are often a threat to lives and livelihoods and these people have the right to expect to be compensated to behave differently. After all, the rest of the world has mostly sanitised itself of large predators.
Surely for trophy hunting to be truly sustainable, these communities must receive a significant portion of the trophy fee? A 2013 study by Economists at Large, an Australian organisation of conservation-minded economists, found that on average only 3% of money generated by trophy hunting winds up in the hands of local people.
During research for my article referred to in point one above, Namibian government officials told me that the relevant community only receives about 12.5% of the trophy hunting fee for a quota lion (US$10,000 of the ± US$80,000 fee) – and only about 1% in the case of a ‘problem animal’ hunt. The rest goes to the professional hunting operator. This is NOT fair or sustainable.
This is what we do know about lions: Populations have crashed from about 450,000 in the 1940’s to about 20,000 today – mostly due to human-wildlife conflict, habitat loss, prey base loss and trophy hunting (US Fish and Wildlife Services). There are multiple references in this USFWS document to trophy hunting being a threat to lion populations, including: “Unless reforms are made to the current management of trophy hunting, we expect the declines specifically documented from excessive offtakes in Benin, Cameroon, Tanzania, Zambia, and Zimbabwe to continue. Furthermore, we expect excessive harvests to further contribute to declines in the species across its African range.”
The remaining pockets of lions are increasingly isolated from other populations, and no longer able to disperse and so maintain population genetic diversity and stability. When young males flee from dominant pride males, and seek out other lions, they leave protected areas and are picked off by hunters and livestock farmers – thus preventing the vital dispersal of young lions to other areas.
The surgical removal of big male lions by trophy hunters within the context of the above is NOT sustainable in any way, shape or form – regardless of what the other causes of lion population reductions are. The trophy hunting industry claim of sustainable practises is nothing but a lie. It’s a fiercely protected justification to continue the senseless and outdated fetish for killing off Africa’s big male lions for fun and ego. The fantasies of a few rich people are taking precedence over the survival of an African icon, over the proper functioning of Africa’s wild places and over the tourism industry which brings in many times more revenue, jobs, skills enhancement and societal benefits.
The trophy hunting of Africa’s wild, free-roaming lions is NOT sustainable and has to stop.
At Africa Geographic, we make it our mission to celebrate amateur photography. We believe that you don’t have to be a professional to capture a compelling and powerful image.
Perhaps the best example we can think of is the winner of our Photographer of the Year 2017 competition – amateur photographer, John Vosloo. This gallery aims to showcase and celebrate some of his best artistic work. He says that he is still high on the proverbial moon after winning the competition with this remarkable photograph.
John spends most of his spare time taking wildlife photos in his backyard of the Eastern Cape, South Africa – where he frequents the Addo Elephant National Park. He has been on a four-year mission to improve his photography and to capture the region’s stunning wildlife.
Here are some of the fruits of that journey – inspiration for budding wildlife and conservation photographers who dream of having their photos published. He also gives us his thoughts on having the opportunity to see his photos published in our 2017 Yearbook: “This photographic concept gives viewers, who may not be fortunate to have the opportunity to see Africa’s magnificent wildlife for themselves, the opportunity to see these high-quality photos and to deeply experience the messages portrayed through them. This, in turn, provides an important platform to promote biodiversity awareness, which ultimately promotes nature conservation at large. By merely having entered our photographs in this contest, we are playing a vital role in promoting conservation, which begs for as much publicity as possible. Publicity which will hopefully lead to action.”
Read more of John’s thoughts on winning the competition in this blog post.
We are very proud to be associated with amateur photographers like John, and others like him, who passionately celebrate Africa and allow us the privilege of sharing that passion with our audience.
Baby elephants are always curious and playful. Although this little chap appears to be on his own, they are usually under the vigilant watch of the rest of the adults and sub-adults in the herd.
The intensity and focus in the eyes of a cheetah are awe-inspiring, and always something to be marvelled at. Of the three big cat species, cheetahs are the only ones who are diurnal – they are more active in the day and generally hunt during daylight hours. They also have a unique social structure involving solitary females and social males.
There are estimated to be fewer than 7000 cheetahs left in the wilds of Africa today. The opportunity to see these elegant and graceful cats anywhere in the wild is a rare and special privilege.
Birdlife is amazingly abundant at these lesser-known salt pans, which are a sanctuary for an enormous mixed flock of greater and lesser flamingos. The pans are one of the few viable breeding grounds for flamingos in the Eastern Cape.
Young bull elephants are renowned for showing intimacy and greeting each other with affection. In the elephant world, family links are strong and powerful. It is a touching and heartwarming sight to see the way they interact with each other.
A zebra inspects and sniffs a tiny plant, an action that eventually led to it sneezing. The mesmerising intricacy and perfection of a zebra’s stripes seen up close could be studied for hours. Just another of Africa’s iconic sights.
Getting the primary symbolic and powerful features of the majestic elephant in one photo: the trunk, tusk, ear and eye. Sadly, their tusks have been wrongfully celebrated as possessions for centuries, leading to a scourge of poaching across Africa and their current status at ‘Vulnerable’ on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species.
‘Dagga Boys’ – male buffaloes that have been kicked out of the herd to spend the rest of their days alone – are some of the most dangerous creatures in all of Africa, and many wild bush stories involve unfortunate encounters with them. It is rare to get so close to them to capture an intimate photo like this one.
An African goshawk exquisitely captured preening its feathers. Birds preen their feathers to keep them in tip-top condition – the process involves the uropygial (or preen) gland secreting an oily substance that contains wax to help waterproof the feathers and keep them flexible.
For their size, elephants move in an uncannily ordered manner in their herds, especially when they are on a mission to drink. An adult elephant can drink up to 50 gallons of water a day – as much as a household bathtub.
A male lion letting all and sundry know he is there, awake and not about to take any nonsense whatsoever. After 130 years of their absence, lions were successfully reintroduced back into the park in April 2013.
From biggest to smallest – elephants walking in single file in dazzling light. Elephants will often let their little ones lead the way in a group, placing trust in them and encouraging them to build their confidence in the wild world.
A spectacularly captured photo of the rarely seen interaction between two African spoonbills. The spoon shape of their bills makes it easier to grab slippery prey that might try to escape when they hunt in muddy, shallow waters. They feed by sticking their wide bills into the water and sweeping from side to side.
The malaria-free Madikwe Game Reserve in northern South Africa, close to the Botswana border, is favoured by those who want a Big 5 safari – lion, leopard, rhino, elephant and buffalo – without the crowds sometimes associated with larger, more popular reserves.
Madikwe does not permit day-trippers or self-drive game drives, ensuring the ultimate private safari experience.
The dry Kalahari ecosystem offers an alternative to the lush Lowveld bush seen in the Kruger National Park, so Madikwe offers some unique and exhilarating safari game viewing and photographic opportunities.
Aside from the Big 5 species, Madikwe offers the chance to see wild dogs, cheetahs, brown hyenas, large numbers of plains game, and about 360 species of birds.
The absence of malaria, plus easy access from Johannesburg via road and air, makes Madikwe an excellent choice for family safaris – some lodges even offer child-friendly activities.
From luxury to basic, the range of accommodation means that there is something for everyone.
Madikwe is something of a success story for wildlife conservation, local community economic empowerment and private/public enterprise.
The state manages the land and animals, private investors own the lodges, and three nearby villages benefit from sustainable jobs and skills advancement.
Read what Africa Geographic safari client Marc de Chalain had to say about his Madikwe safari:
“We had been in Madikwe for a couple of days, and WOW, we had seen so much already! We had seen cheetahs on a kill, lions in great light, wild dogs, spotted hyenas, a brown hyena, rhinos, elephants, many bird species and much more.
And then our excellent guide, Francois, presented us with a dilemma: Male lions on a kill, or stake out a brown hyena den in the hope of seeing the cubs?
Debate ensued, and we decided to go for the baby brown hyenas. Brown hyenas are rarely seen in most reserves, although regularly in Madikwe. BUT baby brown hyenas are very seldom seen anywhere.
We waited silently and patiently at the den in the fading light, and after a long while, the mother ghosted in from the surrounding thickets, approaching the den cautiously and warily. Then a small cub appeared, and shortly after, another.
What a privilege to observe these shy and wary creatures go about their lives in front of us. Amidst a cacophony of shutter releases, the adrenaline and joy we all experienced were tangible.
We had seen Africa reveal herself in a way which mere words can hardly do justice to.”
One of our Photographer of the Year entrants, Nelis Wolmarans, shared with us a sombre update on the subject matter of a photo that got him a place in the 2017 finals – the silverback gorilla, Giraneza.
“I am deeply saddened to learn about the death of this phenomenal silverback, Giraneza. He had fought hard battles to secure a family of his own and finally settled at the base of Bisoke Volcano in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park with his small family.
It is believed that his untimely death was a result of an illness.
Despite his fearsome reputation in gorilla circles, Giraneza was a true ‘Gentle Giant’ to the people who had the privilege of visiting him and his family. R.I.P big guy!”
One of South Africa’s most threatened plant species needs your help! Cycads, which date back 280 million years are under increasing threat from the illegal trade and harvesting of these plants from the wild, as well as habitat destruction, use in traditional practices and threats from alien vegetation.
Enter the Botanical Society of South Africa (BOTSOC) – they realised that while the world is intently focused on the plight of our rhinos, elephants and other threatened wildlife species, the plight of the cycads is largely unheard of.
We met up with Zaitoon Rabaney, Executive Director of BOTSOC at Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens in Cape Town, South Africa, to find out more.
So, how were they going to change this?
BOTSOC have come up with a ‘Save the Cycads’ educational campaign – a programme developed for schools and other learning institutes that provides teachers the materials and resources they need to incorporate the importance of endangered plant species into the curriculum.
A bit of history… and dinosaurs
Cycads were common during the Jurassic period, the time when dinosaurs roamed the earth, up until 65 million years ago when a massive asteroid struck the earth and brought about the extinction of the dinosaurs, along with three-quarters of all life on our planet. But the cycads survived!
South Africa has been recognised as one of the global hotspots for cycad diversity. The country has 38 cycad species (37 species of Encephalartos and one species of Strangeria).
Cycads are characterised by their unique appearance: they have a trunk, leaves and cones, all of which are covered with stiff, sharp spines. Cycads will either be male or female and when they are in a reproductive condition they bear large cones.
Cycads and dinosaurs at Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, Cape Town, South Africa
Today, cycads are the most threatened group of living organisms, and they could soon share the same fate as the dinosaurs, but what threatens their survival is no catastrophic asteroid strike but the greed and selfishness of mankind.
To put it into perspective, Zaitoon tells us that “Our cycads are rarer than the rhino and are more endanger of extinction”.
Cycad numbers
This unique and ancient plant has fallen victim to poaching at frightening levels. Of South Africa’s 38 cycad species, three are extinct in the wild, 12 are critically endangered, four are endangered, nine are vulnerable and seven are near threatened.
The biggest threat facing cycads is the poaching of plants from the wild to supply domestic and international trade.
In South Africa, the indigenous Encephalartos cycad species is protected under provincial legislation and/or the National Environmental Management: Biodiversity Act 10 of 2004. But times call for more hands-on measures, the BOTSOC ‘Save our Cycad’ educational campaign will be used across the board throughout the country, and will align itself with strategy management plans nationwide.
The educational programme is set to launch later this year.
There is an urgent need for South Africa to focus its attention on cycads, in order to prevent further extinctions and to allow for the recovery of overexploited wild cycad populations.
Ndawe the tusker was the missing link, the proof we sought. We were sure that elephants made the long journey between Tsavo and Amboseli, and he was the confirmation. By Big Life Foundation
Ndawe was known as a ‘hundred pounder/tusker’, an elephant whose tusks weigh 100 pounds or more, and of which there are thought to be less than 100 on the entire continent. He was first spotted from the air in late 2016 and, on a whim, Big Life sent the photograph to THE TSAVO TRUST, who monitor the tuskers of Tsavo. The response was exciting – this was indeed a tusker that they knew, last seen in 2014. We have no idea how frequently he made the journey and still don’t know how many others do the same.
Sadly Ndawe’s journey has ended at the hands of humans, death delivered by four spears. He was speared for the first time in late April this year and treated by the joint Kenya Wildlife Service/The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust mobile veterinary unit. We don’t know why he was speared this first time, it was potentially the result of crop-raiding and conflict with humans.
The next spearings are more sinister. The area where Ndawe lived is now separated from cropland by the newly constructed electric crop-protection fence, and so it is highly unlikely that these are the result of conflict. The fact that three spears hit is even more unlikely in a spontaneous conflict incident. Big Life is confident that this was a poaching attempt, perhaps opportunistic.
Ndawe’s condition had been declining since the first spear wound treatment, and his recovery was not helped by the dry conditions and poor quality forage at this time of the year. It is likely that this did not go unnoticed, and he was targeted by poachers due to his weakness.
But none of the spears killed this tusker immediately, rangers reported the wounds and he was darted for treatment once again. Sadly, this time he did not get up. Infection from the wounds, his poor health, and age all contributed, but it was spears that killed him. At an estimated 55-60 years, he was a grand old bull and with his teeth worn down he was right at the end of his life, but this was a sad way to finish it.
The only consolation is that his tusks have been retrieved, and his death will not line a poacher’s pockets. We are doing what we can to track his killers, but for now, the scent is cold.
However, his life will have an enduring impact because he is proof of the importance of the Kimana conservancies and corridor, a highly threatened but critical link that elephants use to travel around the ecosystem. His name will certainly be a powerful force in the future as Big Life continues to work to protect this important corridor.
CELEBRATING KRUGER’S BIG TUSKERS. This gallery is aimed at celebrating the recent identification by The Emerging Tuskers Project of 12 additional large-tusked elephants in South Africa’s Kruger National Park and to encourage visitors to the park to submit their photographs of large-tusked elephants. Due to poaching concerns, specific locations are not provided in this gallery and should not be made available to the public by anybody.
The project, formalised in 2003, allows for the recording of valuable data which can be used to determine the development timeline of the elephants’ tusks, as well as the distribution patterns of these magnificent creatures. This special project is a working example of ‘citizen science’ in African wildlife conservation, in which photographs and sightings from park guests are entered into the project database – and ultimately used to identify and name these rare tuskers.
In 1980, Dr Uys de Villiers Pienaar named the park’s most impressive tuskers the “Magnificent Seven” – after the classic Hollywood western movie from 1960. These magnificent tuskers are likely some of the park’s most famous elephants of all time. They were respected, not just in South Africa but throughout the world, and their story did so much to bring the African elephants’ plight during a dark time to the attention of the world. Sadly, they have all long since passed onto greener pastures, but thankfully Kruger Park has been blessed with an ongoing legacy of large tuskers.
Big tuskers are very rare because of the rarity of big tusker genes and the very low proportion of old elephants in existing elephant populations. The current elephant population of Kruger (2015) was estimated at around 17,000. In this population, only 22 were classified as tuskers. Kruger remains one of the few places in Africa to see these unique and magnificent animals.
Name: Vusopfa Origin of name: Tsonga, meaning ‘untidy’. Vusopfa refers to the heavily torn and scraggly ears of this bull, making him easily identifiable. Special features: This bull has very distinctive features, most notably a noticeably marked left ear with multiple u-shaped and v-shaped notches of varying sizes throughout the full length of the ear lobe. A small hole at the top of the lobe is also visible when fully displayed. The right lobe is less scraggly but also supports notable markings. A long, extended U-shaped notch is visible at the lower point of the lobe; an uneven W-shaped notch can be seen towards the middle of the lobe. From a frontal view, this elephant’s tusks are fairly wide apart and symmetrical – with both growing relatively straight and curving at the tip. From a side profile, the left tusk appears more curved than the right. General: This bull was first sighted in December 2013. With no other submission at the time, it was decided to monitor him until additional sightings could confirm his status. Sightings since then were limited, with a few confirmed sightings in late 2014 and early 2015, increasing in 2016. Due to this, it was felt that there was sufficient evidence of his characteristics to name him and confirm his status as an emerging tusker.
Name: N’wamisejani Origin of name: N’wamisejani, meaning ‘clever or notorious woman’, refers specifically to this cow’s role of matriarch in her herd and the often revered manner in which the females in the herd will protect their offspring and siblings. Special features: This cow’s most notable feature is its tusks. However, the longest tusk of N’wamisejani grows at an angle to the trunk, protruding slightly sideways. A shallow w-shaped notch is visible on the left ear lobe toward the upper middle, and a small v-shaped notch can be seen toward the middle of the right lobe. General: This female was first sighted in 2014/2015. Given the unusual length of the tusks on this cow and an excellent photographic series showing the ear markings clearly, it was decided to name her.
Name: N’watindlopfu Origin of name: N’watindlopfu Spruit means ‘spruit of the elephants’ in Tsonga, and refers to the historic site where, in 1987, a striking and well-preserved panel of rock paintings depicting a group of four elephants was found on a small granite koppie. The name is a reference to the proof of the early existence of elephants in the Kruger National Park and, therefore, links to the great discovery that was this bull’s sudden appearance as a large tusker. Special features: This bull has small u and v-shaped notches in his right ear throughout the lobe. A larger nick is present in the upper part of the same lobe. The left lobe has more distinct markings and, when fully open, an inverted wide u-shape is visible in the middle of the lobe. In the lower level of the lobe, small u and v-shaped notches are visible. N’watindlopfu has a very slightly thickened area of skin on the upper and middle regions of his trunk. There is a small, elongated growth on his upper front thigh that is visible from the left side. His tusks are what would be referred to as the ‘typical’ Kruger shape, with one very long tusk that is straighter than a slightly shorter and more curved tusk. The tusks curve at different levels. In his case, the right tusk is straighter and shows indication of an old chip off the tip. General: This large bull had an interesting start in the tuskers project. A sighting on the 31st July 2014 initially created great confusion as to an ID on such an impressive bull due to an unclear location and similarities to other known bulls. Through back-tracking, it was established that he had been seen elsewhere to the other bulls and it was confirmed, as we had suspected, that we had a new tusker.
Further submissions by regular contributors in quick succession, with clear images of the left ear markings and tusks, confirmed this bull as a new tusker to the area. This bull seems to prefer being out of the limelight, which is perhaps why it took so long to find him.
Name: Jubilala Origin of name: Jub(a)ilala is a Siswati word, meaning ‘cut the ilala palm’, referring to the cutting of palms in Mozambique. Special features: This cow has very unusual tusks. Not only does the right tusk carry a very significant length for a female elephant, but the tusk also grows at a complete angle to her body. The left tusk is much shorter than the right and has a break in it that occurred in 2011. Thankfully, not much length was lost with this break – only the initial sharply pointed curve has gone, and the end is more rounded. A small, coin-sized hole can be seen in the right lobe just above halfway; a very small, shallow U-shaped nick is also visible at the top of the lobe. The left ear has two small V-shaped notches: one on the lower section of the lobe and the other towards the lower middle of the lobe. Most notable with this cow, after her tusks, is the tennis ball-sized growth on the back of the front right leg in line with her body. General: This cow was first sighted in December 2010. While she is a very impressive cow, due to the angle of the right tusk, it was felt that she would break this tusk easily, and there was a reluctance to name her if this was going to be the case. No further sightings of her were received until late 2011, so it could not be determined whether our suspicions were correct.
Sightings in December 2011 confirmed concerns, but to our surprise, the angled long tusk remained intact. However, she had broken the sharp curve of her left tusk. At this time, it was decided she should be named, and she has joined the ranks of the privileged few female tuskers in the large tusker status.
This cow seems to shy away from public areas and is very seldom seen, with an average of only one sighting per annum, but seeing her is worth the wait if she can be found.
Name: Xindzulundzulu Origin of name: Xindzulundzulu is Tsonga for ‘walking round and round in circles’. This is in reference to this bull’s very localised home range. Special features: This bull has very distinct tusks widely splayed from a front view, long and straight, with tapered, pointed ends. The left tusk has a slightly rounded tip with a dip in the tip. Side profiles of the bull do show a shallow curve in the tusks. His ear lobes are fairly clean, with a small v-shaped notch in the right ear towards the top of the lobe. The left ear has two small notches mid-ear, creating a U-shape between these. Very small growths appear on the thigh of the rear left leg. General: This bull was first sighted by Section Ranger Robert Bryden in 2009, at the time he was considered a worthwhile bull to monitor. The tusks lacked significant length, but given his young age, it was decided to continue to monitor him. Minimal sightings of him were submitted in the upcoming years, however, a growth spurt in his tusks in 2014 drew more attention to him and sightings of him increased considerably between 2014 – 2016. Given this significant growth and current length, it was decided to name him, confirming his status as a large tusker.
Name: Matlakusa Origin of name: Matlakusa from ‘tlakusa’, is a Tsonga word meaning to ‘raise, lift up’. Special features: This bull’s tusks closely resemble those of Xindzulundzulu, in that it is relatively symmetrical, straight and widely splayed, with a shallow curve from a side profile. The left ear holds the defining characteristics that separate these two bulls; there is a coin-sized hole in the tip of the lobe, as well as an area of damaged cartilage at the top, giving a large v-shaped ‘collapse’ in the ear. A very small u-shaped notch and two smaller holes are visible on the middle of the lobe but only at close inspection – and with the ears extended. The right earlobe had a smaller-sized hole towards the bottom of the lobe that has recently been torn and is now a U-shaped notch with a small hole towards the inner lobe above this. Other than this, the lobe is relatively clean-edged. A small protrusion of skin is visible on the trunk at the top, adjacent to the left tusk. Visible from a side profile is a growth on the left foreleg behind the leg, just above the joint. General: Initial images of this bull were identified as Xindzulundzulu, due to the tusk shape. Later, in 2014, a full series of images submitted caused a little dilemma, as Xindzulundulu was known to only be local to a specific area and a new bull was suspected. Additional images regularly submitted showing his left and right side allowed the defining characteristics to be seen, and we were able to determine that these were, in fact, two separate bulls.
This revelation allowed two previous sightings in 2012, which were thought to be Xindzulundzulu, but could not be confirmed as the locations did not make sense – and defining characteristics in these images were unclear – to be accurately identified as Matlakusa. The receipt of the 2014 submission with clearer images would confirm these identifications. Several other images placed with Xindzulundzulu’s monitoring file could now also be separated out as being those of Matlakusa – and in 2015/2016, it was decided that sightings of him were sufficient to name the bull confirming his status.
Name: Ndlovane Origin of name: Ndlovane, meaning ‘small elephant’, has been given to this elephant not for his size but for his young age and great potential to develop into a future great tusker. Special features: On the left ear lobe, towards the bottom, there are several small nodules and holes in the lobe, with a few additional nicks and nodules further up the ear. The right ear lobe has a few more distinctive markings: a small hole is visible towards the bottom and middle of the lobe. Towards the top of the lobe is an inverted U-shaped piece of the lobe caused by two shallow U-shaped indentations in the lobe. The tusks of this bull are irregularly shaped and very similar in shape to those of Ngonyama – for whom this bull is often mistaken. The right tusk is straighter and longer in appearance than the left tusk, which is curved forward – giving the illusion that it is the shorter tusk. Side profiles of the tusks provide the appearance of them being very close together, much like Ngonyama. However, from a front view, they are more splayed. This bull’s tusks are not as splayed as Ngonyama, but the side and front profiles are similar enough to confuse. A slightly less notable characteristic is his remarkable lack of tail hair. General: The first clear series of images showing this bull’s identifying features and confirming his status as a new tusker was submitted by a park staff member in 2014. This series allowed for the linking of other sightings in 2012 and 2013. These previous submissions were considered valuable enough to open monitoring files, but due to the angle of the bull or the image quality, the defining characteristics could not be fully determined. This bull is often mistaken for Ngonyama, as their tusk shape is very similar. However, the distinctive hole in the left ear lobe, thickening on the trunk, as well as growths on the rear are not visible in this bull – and as previously indicated, the tusks on this bull are closer together. Sightings of this bull increased dramatically in 2014 – 2016, leading to the decision to name him and confirm his status as an emerging tusker.
Name: N’waMndlovu Origin of name: N’waMndlovu is a Tsonga word, meaning ‘daughter of the elephant’. It refers to this cow’s role within the breeding herd. The images received would indicate that she is not the matriarch but one of the more senior cows in the herd structure, possibly a potential successor to the matriarch. Special features: Long, thin and curved tusks, with the right tusk having a previous break and shorter than the left, with a more rounded end. The ears of this cow are relatively clean; there are several small, w-shaped notches towards the top of the right ear lobe, the lower one being the largest of the series. A wide, W-shaped notch is noticeable on the top of the left ear lobe when the ears are fully displayed. General: This cow was a relatively new arrival to the tusker project, and was not monitored long after her first sighting in April 2014. Due to the exceptional tusk length for a female elephant, it was decided to name her immediately as sufficient information was available.
Name: Botsotso Origin of name: Botsotso is a Tsonga word that refers to a particular style of jeans that were worn in the olden days – it is a direct reference to the large and prominent folds of skin on the rear of this bull, making them one of his key identification characteristics. Special features: Once again, we have a bull with a similar tusk shape to Matlakusa and Xindzulundzulu. Although, this bull’s straight and symmetrical ivory is not as widely splayed, and shows an inward curve of both tusks towards the bottom. His most notable ear markings are found on his left ear – at the bottom of the lobe there is a deep, u-shaped tear in the tip. Further up towards the middle of the lobe, there is a small, v-shaped notch. In the outer lobe, above this, towards the top of the lobe there is a deeper w-shaped notch – both of these are only visible in high-resolution images. In earlier images, there are signs that the right tusk experienced a small break, which has subsequently smoothed over, and the re-growth has allowed the tusks to remain reasonably symmetrical. The trunk does offer a few key identification characteristics – at the lip line on the right tusk there is a scarring growth that looks like a tennis or golf ball between the tusk and trunk. General: This is another bull that started out being monitored slowly, as there was only one submission of him in 2010. A further single submission in 2011 confirmed the identifying characteristics, however, it was still felt that with limited submissions, he should continue to be monitored. From 2014 to 2016, sightings of this bull increased dramatically, and it was then decided to confirm his status as an emerging tusker by naming him.
Name: Ngwenya Origin of name: Ngwenya, meaning ‘crocodile’ in Tsonga. Special features: Ngwenya has a very noticeable, deep, U-shaped notch in his left ear lobe. Less notable on the same lobe are an inverted v-shaped notch below the large notch and a v-shaped nick below this. A small coin-sized hole is visible above the inverted v-shape towards the middle of the lobe. His right ear lobe does not have any noticeable markings, a very small v-shaped notch is visible towards the middle of the lobe, as well as a very shallow long u-shaped notch towards the top of the lobe. Ngwenya’s tusks are very curved, and from a direct side profile, the left tusk appears more curved and higher than the right tusk. A recent break (2016) in the left tusk has given the tusks a more even appearance. General: This bull was first sighted in 2013. There was limited footage of this bull at this time, with only a second sighting in December 2013. It was decided to monitor him until more submissions were made. A dramatic increase in sightings in late 2014 – 2016 cemented his status as a large tusker, and the decision was taken to name him.
Name: Hahlwa Origin of name: The name Hahlwa is a Tsonga word meaning ‘twin’. The tusks and the ear markings of this bull resemble, almost identically, those of Masasana – and in many images, he would seem to be his twin. Special features: The right tusk of this bull is slightly longer and straighter than the left tusk, which has a small curve at the tip. The tusks, like Masasana, are close together and from a side profile appear straight. The left ear has a w-shaped notch that has a piece of skin hanging in the middle, forming the w-shape towards the middle of the ear – very similar to Masasana. The right ear is the biggest differing identification mark between the bulls, where a wide square notch is visible on his lower right lobe. An oval, tennis ball-sized growth is also visible on his left front leg, close to the top, but this is not always prominently seen in images. The thickening on the trunk closely resembles the thick line markings on Masasana, although with a small variation in shape towards the centre of the trunk and top left, close to the ivory lip. General: This bull caused considerable confusion with his initial sightings in October 2015, primarily due to the majority of his identification markings being virtually identical to Masasana – but he was sighted in an area considered unusual for Masasana, who until recently had remained local to a more specific area elsewhere. Despite scrutiny of all his key identifying features by several experts, confirmation of his identity could not be offered. The ‘new’ notch in the right ear left questions as to whether Masasana was extending his home range due to the dry conditions prevailing in the KNP. At the time, this was a distinct possibility as many known bulls had changed their ‘traditional’ movements due to water shortages.
A committed answer to these questions could not be made until confirmed sightings of Masasana were received, as the bulls were just too similar. Fortunately, the wait was not long, and sightings of the ‘twin bull’ in late January 2016 and Masasana in another location in March 2016 confirmed that these were two different bulls.
Name: N’wendlamuharhi Origin of name: N’wendlamuharhi is Shangaan for ‘sand river’, meaning that ‘the river that is fierce when in flood’. Special features: Most notable on this bull are his tusks. His left tusk suffered a dramatic break many years back, and while there has been substantial growth of the tusk since then, there is a marked difference in length between the two tusks. The left tusk break has smoothed over time and has developed quite a prominent point to it. There are very few notable ear markings on this bull, aside from a small v-shaped nick visible in the left lobe towards the top, and small u-shaped marks towards the top of the right ear lobe. Visible from a left-side profile is a cluster of small growths on the front of the left foreleg, fairly high up the leg. The ear lobe often obscures these in frontal images. General: This bull was first noted by retired Section Ranger Johann Oelofse in 2010, shortly after the death of the similar-looking Mandhevhu. As these images did not identify any defining characteristics, it was decided to monitor him. The second submission in 2011 confirmed this bull’s status as a tusker, but it was decided to continue to monitor him to determine if there would be any continued growth.
Submissions of this bull increased dramatically at the end of 2013 and throughout 2014 – 2016. All submissions show considerable growth in the broken tusk, therefore the decision was made to name the bull confirming his status as a large tusker.
The images and information for this gallery have been provided with thanks to the dedicated people at Kruger National Park who work on this important conservation project.
If you would like to submit your photos to the project, please email your submissions to tuskers@sanparks.org.
Find out about the Greater Kruger for your next African safari. You can choose a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.
The Zimbabwean trophy hunter who shot Cecil the Lion’s son, Xanda, was lying about the circumstances of the hunt, says Oxford University researcher Andrew Loveridge from WildCru.
The professional hunter, Richard Cooke, and the Zimbabwe Professional Hunters and Guides Association said that Xanda was a lone male who had moved out of Hwange National Park (where hunting is banned) because he had been ousted from his pride and that he had no dependent cubs.
But according to WildCru, Xanda was part of a pride with seven cubs and his territory spanned areas beyond the national park boundaries. Apparently, Mr Loveridge said that his staff had warned Cooke that shooting Xanda would be detrimental to the population of lions.
Andrew Loveridge was quoted by The Times as saying:
“These cubs were too young to survive on their own and will certainly be vulnerable to infanticide” – male lions normally kill their rival’s offspring when they take control of a pride. Therefore, Xanda’s cubs are vulnerable to being killed.
“There is no question that Mr Cook was fully aware that this animal was a pride male. He was a territorial male in a pride of three females with at least seven dependant cubs of between one and 1 1/2 years old.”
“Ethics is about not just adhering to the letter of the law, but also making informed ethical choices to limit the detrimental impacts of hunting activities.”
Xanda, the 6-year-old son of Cecil the Lion, has been shot and killed by a client of Zimbabwean professional hunter Richard Cooke, a Victoria Falls resident. Xanda, in his prime years and the father of several young cubs, was killed just outside Hwange National Park, as was his famous father.
Although the hunt was reportedly legal, Cooke has refused to divulge his client’s identity. Cooke also led the hunt in 2015 that killed Cecil the Lion’s other son when that lion was 4 years old.
Like Cecil the Lion, Xanda was wearing an electronic collar, fitted by Oxford University researchers monitoring lion movements in the area. Andrew Loveridge from the Department of Zoology at the university, said: “I fitted it last October. It was monitored almost daily, and we were aware that Xanda and his pride were spending a lot of time out of the park in the last six months, but there is not much we can do about that. Richard Cooke is one of the ‘good’ guys. He is ethical, and he returned the collar and communicated what had happened. His hunt was legal, and Xanda was over 6 years old, so it is all within the stipulated regulations.”
The 2015 killing of 13-year-old Cecil sparked international outrage after Walter Palmer shot the lion while legally hunting in Hwange National Park. Many pro-hunters declared Cecil the Lion to be ‘past his breeding prime’ and, therefore, fair game. One wonders what the same people would say about 6-year-old Xanda’s breeding status.
South Africa should implement a ‘shoot-to-kill’ policy for poachers, suggest Botswana academics Goemeone EJ Mogomotsi and Patricia Kelilwe Madigele in a report titled ‘Live by the gun, die by the gun’.
Mogomotsi and Madigele suggest that Botswana’s relatively good anti-poaching track record compared to its neighbours is because of that country’s controversial adoption of this policy in 2013.
The report observes that private rhino owners in South Africa are even moving rhinos to Botswana precisely because of the relative safety of that country compared to South Africa, and that the ‘shoot-to-kill’ policy is a ‘necessary evil’ that is cheaper to implement than other strategies.
The report does cover, but not in any great detail, the legal or human rights perspectives. It also does not discount the usefulness of other conservation methods – rather it argues that in order for those methods to be effective, they need to be implemented alongside a ‘shoot-to-kill’ policy.
Poaching poses a serious threat to biodiversity, socio-economic conditions and national security – especially for countries that depend on tourism as a generator of revenue. Poaching continues to rise in many countries, despite the implementation of fines and prison terms, and governments are trying to find ways to curb this rise. The Botswana government considers poaching an act of war.
The report acknowledges that the ‘green militarisation’ policy has created tension in northern Botswana, where communities have to live amongst wildlife, but suggests that these tensions relate to poorly managed human-wildlife conflicts and rural communities’ belief that the government prioritises conservation over human welfare. This tension belies the effectiveness of the policy and proves that the policy is a means to and end and not the entire solution.
The other parts of a total solution do not deter poachers, whereas the ‘shoot-to-kill’ policy does deter poachers very effectively. The report claims that Zimbabwe’s elephant population increased from 52,000 to 72,000 when the same policy was implemented in the 1980s.
The authors argue that the introduction of ‘shoot-to-kill’ by the Botswana Defence Force in 2013 resulted in:
1. The effective end of mega-fauna poaching in Northern Botswana;
2. An improved sense of stability amongst local people and tourists alike.
Disasters involving art materials are nothing new to me after years of travelling and sketching in southern Africa.
My pretty collection of pastel sticks were pummeled into tiny pieces by drives through the thick sand of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. Ambitious plans to paint large watercolours were scuppered by the dry heat and hot winds of Namibia, so tubes of paint and heavy pads of unused watercolour paper made the trek from one end of the country to the other without leaving my bag. Simple line drawings in charcoal returned home smudged to the point where they look like they may have actually been drawn by the giraffe I was sketching.
So, having learned some harsh, sandy, dusty lessons about field sketching materials, I recommend pens or pencils for sketching on Art Safaris, with some watercolor for use at camp. Sounds simple, right?
Not exactly, because the wide variety of pens and pencils available – greyscale; coloured; pastel; watercolor; biros; markers; water-soluble or permanent; brush-style or regular nib – can fill an entire suitcase. Even worse, and much heavier, is the astonishing array of papers available. Then there are watercolors and brushes.
So, although you might spend many happy hours in your local art supply store choosing materials, bringing too much with you on the Art Safari will mean you spend more time finding the right pencil than doing any sketching.
So here is my absolute essentials list:
♦ Pencils: 2H, HB, 2B – plus sharpener and pencil case.
♦ Pads of paper with hard covers (ring-bound), and at least 50 sheets in each, 11 x 14″ or 35 x 28cms.
Even if you leave everything else behind, you’ll be fine if you have these. Having enough sketching paper is especially important, as you will use a lot of it, and you only ever want to draw on one side of the paper – unless you want to create a masterpiece on both sides!
Optional extras:
♦ Watercolour field box set containing a dozen solid half-pan colours.
♦ Small water container with a screw-top lid.
♦ Three types of brushes: 3 round, 7 round, 14 round.
I have high praise for my Windsor & Newton field box set, which is so tiny and yet so easy to use and transport. The only thing I discard is the brush that comes with it – cute though it is. The box set could go in the list of the essential materials, but watercolour is not for everyone, so it remains in the optional list.
Incidentally, my first Windsor & Newton field box set was accidentally driven over and crushed in Botswana. But I think it would be a little unfair to blame this on the construction of the field box set, especially as my second box set has been faithfully recording scenes from around Africa with me for the last 18 years!
Now you have the essentials (and maybe some optional extras), you can think about any new materials you might want to experiment with on your Art Safari. Once again, less is more. If trying coloured pencils is your aim, don’t bring a lovely metal box with 200 colours laid out in meticulous order in two trays.
Instead, bring 20-25 pencils in a range of colours and keep them in your pencil case. Believe me – you won’t have time to miss the things you didn’t bring, but you may regret carrying something you didn’t use.
Now you’ve done the hard work and finished reading, reward yourself by joining fellow artists and me on an Art Safari in South Africa!
South African lion farmers are supplying large volumes of lion bone, teeth and claws as ‘tiger parts’ to an insatiable Asian market – says a report recently published by the Environmental Investigation Agency. South Africa is the world’s largest exporter of lion body parts.
The report goes on to say that this growing industry in South Africa is fuelling the demand for tiger products and driving the poaching of wild tigers and other big cats. Consumer demand for wild animal parts ensures ongoing poaching of wild tigers and wild African lions, leopards, clouded leopards, snow leopards and jaguars.
The supply of African lion parts into Asia frustrates enforcement efforts in Asia and undermines demand-reduction efforts to end the tiger trade.
There are now twice as many captive tigers in Asia than wild tigers, as wild tiger populations continue to crash and the population of captive tigers rises.
And South Africa’s government has contributed to these catastrophic knock-on effects on wild big cat populations by sanctioning the export of 800 lion skeletons a year in order to generate profits for lion farmers. This decision was made ostensibly to protect local wild lion populations, despite evidence that the same decision made by the Chinese government failed to curb the poaching of wild tigers.
The legislation in South Africa relating to tigers is relatively weak because tigers are not indigenous to the region, opening up the industry for abuse and laundering of wild tiger parts. Lack of cooperation and differing legislation between provincial authorities in South Africa contributes to the problem.
In South Africa, there are approximately 6,000 to 8,000 captive lions in about 200 facilities, dwarfing the wild population of approximately 3,490 lions. In addition, there are at least 280 tigers in South Africa in at least 44 facilities.
Tiger bone is consumed primarily in China, Vietnam and Lao People’s Democratic Republic as traditional medicine, high-end ‘tiger bone wine’ and as a virility product.
A recently completed 11-month undercover investigation by Elephant Action League (EAL) called Grinding Rhino has exposed the networks, the players and the means by which rhino horn is trafficked into China.
A separate 200-page Confidential Intelligence Brief (CIB) has been prepared for law enforcement only, and it includes detailed information and evidence on 55 identified Persons of Interest involved in rhino horn trafficking in China and Vietnam.
Although completely illegal since 1993, anyone with the desire and means can easily buy rhinoceros horn in China. All you need to do is walk into an ‘antiques’ shop and ask.
1. The rhino horn trade is an extremely complex web of traffickers, transporters, wholesale dealers, and traders, making law enforcement incredibly difficult;
2. Rhino horn and other wildlife contraband generally moves from Vietnam to the Guangxi or Yunnan Provinces and then to China’s primary retail markets (Guangdong, Fujian, Zhejiang, Beijing);
3. Local populations at the China-Vietnam border use the smuggling business as a means to support themselves and their families;
4. Smugglers use individuals to transport contraband across the border; individuals can more easily pass through the border without inspection or detection;
5. Official ports of entry and private border crossings are both used to smuggle goods, but private crossings have weaker security;
6. Most high-crime smuggling occurs via mountain and land routes, but moving goods across the border via boat is still a common practice in some areas;
7. In Vietnam, wildlife dealers claim to have relationships built with shipping companies so that they can ship contraband directly to customers throughout China;
8. In China, many traders offer delivery of illicit goods via registered courier services;
9. Similar routes are used by smugglers for all types of contraband, including illegal arms and narcotics;
10. The corruption exhibited by customs and law enforcement authorities in Vietnamese and Chinese border regions is substantial; fining smugglers and taking bribes is standard practice at most ports of entry;
11. Many illegal wildlife product dealers are involved in the redwood furniture business, or similar art and antiquities businesses, and traditional Chinese medicine markets, with established connections in Vietnam and/or Guangxi.
12. Most dealers do not hold a large inventory of rhino horn (whole, raw, or carved), instead, material is generally sourced on-demand and primarily sold only to familiar customers in order to avoid detection by authorities;
13. WeChat, the mobile application, is used extensively by dealers to connect with buyers and exhibit available rhino horn products; Alipay is used by many to process payment transactions;
14. One contact alleged that he sells rhino horn scrap to a Chinese international pharmaceutical company, Tong Ren Tang, for use in medical products. This is unconfirmed by EAL and denied by another POI that previously worked for the company;
15. A seasoned rhino horn dealer, who is also a Vice President of the local Association of Collectors, alleged involvement with commanders in the Chinese military, where they used him to identify authentic wildlife products (such as rhino horn) for them to purchase, as well as allowed the Chinese navy fleet to pick up and carry wildlife contraband back to China;
16. EAL investigators also found large quantities of other wildlife products such as tiger (teeth, skins and bones), as well as ivory, bear paws, bile and gall bladders, hawksbill turtle shells, helmeted hornbill beaks, snow leopard skins, civet cats, king cobras, wolf skin and teeth, and corals;
17. The price identified was between $26,500 and $40,000/kg for whole raw rhino horn, and between $34 and $70/gram for cut objects (see products list and prices on the report).
Screaming Namibian newspaper headlines and vocal activist outbursts on social media speak of what looks like the systematic removal of some of Namibia’s last free-roaming lions in that area by livestock farmers, intent on eradicating the enemy.
But scratch a bit deeper, and you soon see that although the root of the problem lies in human-wildlife conflict (HWC), the situation is magnified by an information vacuum – leading to a sad cocktail of simmering tensions and intolerance.
Look, let’s not pretend that humans killing off the competition is a new thing – most of the Western world has been sanitised of dangerous critters, and their former wild areas have been tamed and converted into comfortable, non-threatening lifestyle collateral. And so, too, the remaining wild areas in Africa are under massive threat as humankind rolls out its exclusive-use model. But what makes this situation so desperately sad is that Namibia has been a shining light when it comes to increasing wildlife populations in the face of human pressure.
There are now about 150 desert-adapted lions in the arid 52,000 km² rangeland of northwestern Namibia, up from 25 in 1999. This success is due to involving and empowering affected rural communities in managing wildlife, a strategy that makes Namibia a leader in the field.
HOWEVER …
I started asking questions in February this year about Namibia’s desert-adapted lions after reading a 2010 report by researcher Dr Flip Stander that illustrates an alarming drop in male/female ratios. Stander’s Desert Lion Conservation Project is a long-standing research project mandated by the Ministry of Environment and Tourism (MET). My interest was further triggered by ongoing reports via social media about the double whammy of the selective trophy hunting of large male lions and the ongoing loss of lions to HWC.
MET is pretty transparent that they allocate annual trophy hunting permits, and I assumed that these would be based on a sustainable strategy and hard facts resulting from scientific research. I was curious about how many male lions of breeding age there are currently in the population of 150 and how many male lions die each year from human-wildlife conflict incidents – because these facts would surely indicate how sustainable the trophy hunting quota is.
And so, in February, I started digging. And that, ladies and gentlemen, is where the fun started.
Approaching the lodge owners
My first port of call was to various lodge owners that operate in the area. They could not provide the answers and referred me to MET and the project website.
Tourism plays a fundamental role in providing significant employment, skills training, anti-poaching support and many other conservation benefits and services in the area. I was surprised that the experienced lodge owners I spoke to seemed to have no knowledge about the current status of the lions other than the total population figure, which they hold up as evidence of the success of their own conservation objectives.
I do, though, understand the sensitivities surrounding their relationship with MET and affected communities and their reluctance to engage on the topic.
Approaching MET
I also approached MET with a request for information. I was impressed that several high-ranking officials engaged with me and, after a fair amount of prodding, provided some information.
The thing is though that in reply to my question, ‘How many breeding-age males and breeding-age females are in that population of 150? How many territory/pride males?’, MET replied: “… we are still awaiting latest results to give us further information.”
And in reply to my question, ‘How many lions killed due to HWC were firstly adult males and secondly adult females?’, MET replied: “The accurate figures in term of age and sex is not available at the moment.”
So, MET has no current data on how many male lions there are and how many die each year due to human-lion conflict. And yet each year, male lions are shot by trophy hunters based on a MET quota.
Does this not seem strange? Note that the number of lions killed by trophy hunters is generally less than those killed due to HWC, but the placing of lions on hunting quotas is a proactive strategy that could be stopped if found to be unsustainable.
The questions that MET did reply to:
1. Are hunters prohibited from shooting territory/pride males, and if so, how is this differentiation enforced?
MET: “Hunters are prohibited from shooting females and encouraged to hunt post-productive males. This is difficult to enforce at the moment because operators do not have to be accompanied by MET officials in conservancies where there are conservancy game guards available.”
2. What is the annual trophy hunting quota for desert-adapted lions in this area, and how is it calculated?
“The quota for lions in 2016 was a total of four lions.”
3. How much does the community receive from the ±US$80,000 fee for a lion trophy hunt such as this? And how much does the government receive? Lastly, with regard to revenue, how much stays overseas?
“The conservancies, on average, receive about US$10 000 for a lion. The government does not receive any money for hunting in conservancies unless through government concessions when lions are part of the package and if they are hunted as problem animals. In this case, N$10 000 is paid into the Game Product Trust Fund for each lion, and the rest is paid to the conservancy where the animal was declared.”
4. Is the baiting of lions permitted?
“Baiting is permitted, but using live animals for baiting is not permitted.”
5. How many lions have been shot as hunting trophies in the region in the past 10 years?
“In the past 10 years, about 15 lions have been trophy hunted in the region.”
6. How many lions have been killed as problem animals in the region in the past 10 years? Of these, how many were killed firstly by community members/farmers, secondly by MET officials and thirdly by trophy hunters?
“In the past 10 years, ±17 have been killed due to HWC, of which six are by professional hunters with a MET permit, and the rest by the community. It is very possible that some cases are not reported to MET.”
Approaching Dr Flip Stander
And, of course, I approached researcher Dr Flip Stander, who is the leading light in this vital research project. It appears that he alone has the information I seek. I have never met Stander but have high regard for him. He is, by most accounts, totally committed to the cause and has dedicated his life to it. He is, however, a recluse operating in an extremely remote area and unfortunately did not reply to my emails – although his assistant did reply and promised feedback. I am still waiting, and recent reminders have been ignored.
♦ 47 collared lions died, of which 32 were killed by people – 20 as a result of HWC and 12 by trophy hunters. 77% of these lions killed were male.
♦ Stander collared 31 young male lions – of which only eight were alive at the date of the report – two adults and six young lions. Of these collared male lions, 19 were killed by people – 11 of those by trophy hunters. Of the trophy hunting killings, five were on quota permits, and the remaining six were so-called ‘problem animals’ – a gap in the legislation that permits communities to nominate ‘problem’ lions that trophy hunters are invited to kill. Stander’s comment in his report speaks volumes about this practice: “In all six cases, however, it is arguable whether the adult males that were shot were in fact the lions responsible for the killing of livestock.”
♦ Stander’s stats reflect a serious decline in the ratio of males to females, and he concludes: “The long-term viability of the Desert lion population has been compromised by the excessive killing of adult and sub-adult males. There is an urgent need to adapt the management and utilisation strategies relating to lions if the long-term conservation of the species in the Kunene were to be secured.”
And that is why I have been trying, since February, to obtain current statistics relating to male desert-adapted lions.
Spats with social media-empowered keyboard warriors have driven Stander even further underground. Judging by some of the comments I have seen on Facebook, some activists think that Stander should go beyond the clearly defined boundaries of his project and assist with hands-on human-wildlife conflict prevention and mitigation. Lack of engagement by anybody from his project has fed the flames and got some keyboard warriors all riled up – some have even accused him of colluding with MET to cause the downfall of these lions!
The activists and concerned citizens
I constantly engage with many activists and concerned citizens, who feed me with valuable raw information. Some Namibian-based activists have stepped into the breach by monitoring some of the lions and providing practical livestock protection assistance to communities. But these good people do so in their spare time and with limited resources.
Unfortunately, other activists simply feed the spiral of confusion and anger with their emotional outbursts and conspiracy theories. Others call for boycotts of Namibian tourism – clearly not the appropriate solution.
Approaching a community representative
I also approached a community representative who was referred to me as the go-to person in this regard. After a Facebook message promising feedback, he slipped off the radar and ignored all subsequent emails and Facebook requests for feedback.
Fundamental to understanding the Namibian situation is to respect the fact that rural Namibian communities are the key to solving this crisis. They have to live with dangerous animals in the neighbourhood – animals that threaten lives and livelihoods. For this problem to be overcome, the relevant communities have to see benefits that outweigh the costs and risks – their expectations are no different to yours and mine.
Conclusion
Despite the existence of a long-running research project, it would appear that the key decision-makers (MET) are flying blind, awarding trophy hunting permits without current desert lion population statistics. This is disappointing, considering the comparably stellar record that Namibia has with regard to increasing wildlife populations.
Most importantly, the vital support and understanding of some rural communities seem to be on the wane, as frustration leads to tension and even vigilantism – a clear and present threat to fragile desert-adapted lion populations and other species like cheetahs, rhinos and elephants. What a damming reflection on all concerned.
Cape leopards are extremely camera shy and rarely encountered. team AG recently met up with The Cape Leopard Trust to discover more about these big cats that are found in the remote Cape mountain ranges and how camera traps are revealing their secret lives to researchers.
Today there are approximately 30 – 35 adult male and female Cape leopards in a 3000km² area of the Cederberg Wilderness. Read more about them here.
A study by Martins (2011) in the Cederberg region showed that the leopards here utilise far larger home ranges (between 235 km² and 600 km²) than previously recorded and hence that they occur at lower population densities than previously thought. In the wetter, fynbos region of the western Cederberg Wilderness Area, as well as in the Boland mountains, leopards have somewhat smaller ranges compared to the drier Karoo areas, and the population density is therefore slightly higher.
There is no definitive total for leopard numbers in the Western Cape, however, data from recent leopard studies in three distinct mountain areas suggest that there are fewer than 1000 leopards in the Western Cape.
On 4 May 2017, the #CederbergProject was launched with a lengthy deployment of cameras for their long-awaited camera trap survey. This survey comprises 130 cameras at 65 paired stations in a 1625km² area of mainly fynbos habitat in the Cederberg Wilderness Area and adjacent private property.
To place these cameras, the team had to hike to remote locations, clocking long hours in the rugged Cederberg terrain. These camera traps will provide invaluable insights into the lives of these elusive cats and become great educational resources for their outreach programmes.
Who wouldn’t be inspired to protect and conserve the leopard after seeing this video from a Boland project camera trap!
The Cape Leopard Trust was launched in 2004 as an active predator conservation working group in the Cape. It uses research as a tool for conservation, finding solutions to human-wildlife conflict and inspiring interest in the environment through an interactive and dynamic environmental education programme.
The turquoise water teemed with tropical fish, palm trees swayed, and warm waves lapped at our toes on the sandy beach. We could easily have been on a beach in the Indian Ocean. But we were at Greystoke Mahale.
This lodge, inside Mahale Mountains National Park, Tanzania, is on the shores of Lake Tanganyika. It’s about halfway between the borders of Burundi and Zambia. Behind us, within hiking distance of the beach, loomed the foothills of the Mahale Mountains, covered in a mix of miombo woodland and rainforest.
Hidden beneath this canopy is a thriving population of wild chimpanzees.
Mahale Mountains is one of Africa’s few national parks that can be experienced only on foot. There is no single road in the 1,613km² of the park. Add to this the fact that the only way in or out of Mahale is by boat, and you begin to get an idea of the true remoteness of the place.
For those searching for an entirely new wilderness experience, there’s little to compare with the excitement and beauty of this remote park. Mahale is a long way off the beaten path, but the lake, the beaches, the extraordinary forest and – of course – the chimpanzees make it a journey well worth taking.
The shoreline of Lake Tanganyika is an area of great beauty. The lake is part of the western Rift Valley and has several million years of history. It’s the longest lake in the world (673km) and the second deepest (1,470m at its deepest point). Lake Tanganyika holds a staggering 17 percent of the world’s fresh water.
The lake water at Mahale is crystal clear and filled with an incredible array of tropical fish. There are about 250 species of cichlids in Lake Tanganyika, 98 percent of which are endemic to the lake. Although there are crocodiles in many places along the shore, they’re rare at Greystoke, so we could snorkel in the shallows quite safely.
However, we had come to the Mahale Mountains to see the chimpanzees, so we temporarily turned our backs on the lake and headed off into the hills. There are only two protected areas for chimpanzees in Tanzania. Gombe Stream National Park was made famous by researcher Jane Goodall. But Mahale is 50 times the size and infinitely more diverse.
The chimpanzee population in Mahale Mountains National Park is the world’s largest protected population of the eastern subspecies of chimpanzee (Pan troglodytes schweinfurthii). Thanks to the park’s size and remoteness, they are flourishing. Mahale has approximately 800 chimpanzees. However, only one group has been semi-habituated by humans and is regularly visited. This M group, of about 60 individuals, was the group we would look for.
If trekking five to six hours a day up steep inclines in humid jungle conditions is not for you, think carefully before deciding to visit Mahale! M group’s territory is approximately 39km² and covers beaches, lowland forest, hills and valleys, much of which is impenetrable to the average human tracker. The seasons determine where the chimps will be found. Different fruits ripen in different locations at different times. So, knowing what’s on the menu is essential.
Traditionally, the Batongwe and Holoholo people lived in the Mahale Mountains. They’d been there for hundreds – possibly thousands – of years and were highly attuned to the natural environment. They lived with minimal impact on the ecology and coexisted peacefully with the chimpanzees. They regarded them as ancestors and never hunted them for bushmeat.
When the Mahale Mountains National Park was established in 1985, about 35,000 people were relocated from the mountains into surrounding villages. In the formerly inhabited parts of Mahale, you can see the exotic and cultivated plants they left behind: palm trees (for oil), mangos, guavas and lemons. These trees form part of the diet of both the chimpanzees and some of the park’s other primates, including yellow baboons, vervet, red-tailed, and colobus monkeys (both the red and Angolan black-and-white colobus).
To prevent too much competition between the rapidly growing baboon population and the chimpanzees, the exotic trees weren’t eradicated when the people were moved away. Since the fruit trees are found mainly along the shoreline, chimpanzees regularly come down from the hills and dine right by the camps when the fruit is ripe.
On foot through the forests
Unfortunately, exotic fruits were not on M group’s shopping list during our time in Mahale. Consequently, day one was quite a long slog. Two hours of trekking uphill with Greystoke Mahale’s terrific trio, Mwiga, Mathius and Butati, had the group dripping with sweat. Some were wondering what they had signed up for, and one declared it was so humid he had developed a severe case of swamp ass.
But, nothing can adequately convey the adrenaline rush that kicked in when we first heard the calls of the chimpanzees. Heat, distance, aching legs, swampy asses – all was forgotten as the shrill cries echoed through the forest canopy. Redoubling our speed, with energy miraculously restored, we hurried on through the dense vegetation. Suddenly, there they were.
Our first sighting was of just three chimps: a mother, her baby and another female. We’d been too slow to catch the rest of the group. They’d been hunting red colobus monkeys and, after a successful hunt, had descended at speed back down the mountain we’d worked so hard to climb.
Fortunately, this group of three had remained, and we could sit and spend time watching them. Mum was eating the remains of the monkey carcass, and the baby was clearly bored. He swung in the trees, hanging first by one arm, then the other. He swung upside down, performing aerial somersaults, and occasionally reached out to touch the tail of the red colobus monkey that his mother was eating – a somewhat macabre choice of toy.
Spectators at a primal drama
After this tantalising taste, we didn’t see any chimpanzees for a few days. We swam, fished, snorkelled and kayaked while we waited for the trackers to find the elusive M group again. On day four, we finally got word that the trackers had located them. So, off we set up the mountains again.
This time, we knew what to expect, although it didn’t make it any easier. Again, we heard the spine-chilling screams and cries of the chimpanzees as they hunted another red colobus monkey. We listened to the whoops of excitement when the hunt was successful. This time, we reached them in time to witness group politics playing out.
The alpha male took possession of the kill, dragging the bedraggled corpse through the forest and across the riverbed. The others followed in hot pursuit. Some begged, others attempted to ingratiate themselves with him, and yet more pretended to be indifferent. Their tactics depended on their hierarchy in the tribe.
The alpha male had difficulty deciding whether to eat the kill or court one of the in-season females. He wanted to have his cake and eat it too, and this was proving a dilemma.
Time close to the chimps is limited to an hour to minimise interference and disturbance. But for us, time seemed to stand still. It felt like we had been with them both for two minutes and two hours. The adrenaline and excitement of the chase, followed by plenty of time to observe the group dynamics and get so close to so many different individuals, was simply amazing.
The secret life of chimpanzees
The researchers studying wild chimpanzees in Mahale since the 1960s depended on habituating the animals for much of their research. Initially, this was achieved by feeding them sugarcane and bananas. But, once reasonable levels of habituation were established, feeding was reduced. By 1987, it had been completely abandoned.
Now, researchers follow the chimpanzees as they range freely in the forest, monitoring their activities and social structure. Field research has also shed light on how our closest genetic relatives can cure some of their afflictions in the wild.
Chimps in Mahale use medicinal plants to treat a variety of ailments. For example, chimpanzees have been witnessed eating two different plants to treat themselves for roundworm. One plant contains a chemical that kills the worms. The other is a fibrous leaf that the chimps fold up accordion-style, swallow and excrete whole, physically scraping the worms from their intestines.
While chimpanzees are adept at treating several ailments with plant medicines, they aren’t immune to human disease, which has proven fatal in some cases. A few years ago, flu was transmitted from humans to chimpanzees, and a large number of the community died as a result. Now, anyone anywhere near the chimps must wear a surgical mask and refrain from eating or drinking. If unwell, you may not visit them at all.
You’re also supposed to keep a minimum distance of 10 metres from the chimpanzees at all times. However, this is sometimes proved difficult. M group was always on the move and showed a complete lack of interest in us, regularly passing and sitting very close by. One of our group was given a resounding thump by Christmas, one of the senior males, as he ran past her. Apparently, he was trying to reinforce his position in the clan. She had quite a bruise as a souvenir the next day. In another instance, Teddy, another male, quite literally sat on the foot of one of our group. Teddy was so close that the man couldn’t even focus his camera to photograph his new friend.
We’d been warned not to be startled or to run away if charged at by any of the chimps. While this was good advice, in theory, it wasn’t as easy as it sounds. Chimpanzees are about five times stronger than humans, so holding my ground as six young males came charging down the hill, whooping, screaming, chasing one another – and coming close enough to me that the hair on their bodies brushed against my bare legs – took considerable will power.
Descending from their night nests in the morning, chimpanzees feed on fruits, leaves, buds and blossoms. Once their appetites are sated, they become vocal. This is the best time to locate them. Rama, our knowledgeable guide at Kungwe Beach Lodge, informed us that we could expect to hear them at 10 am. Sure enough, we heard the first calls at 10:05.
Chimps are amongst the noisiest wild animals, which certainly made finding them in the dense undergrowth a little bit easier. We found a group of around 15 individuals in dense foliage. It was too dark, and the space was too confined for photography, but this was actually a good thing.
Putting aside cameras gave us time to focus on the behaviour and mannerisms of various individuals. We watched an infant playing with his elder sister. We laughed as we saw him practising being a grown-up, stamping the ground and doing mini displays with puny twigs and leaves. Then, some of the older males arrived, and we saw another side to them as they tickled and patted the infant in passing before settling down to groom each other.
Another day, another five hours of trekking. We had started on a visible path, but as soon as we heard the chimps vocalising – right on time at 10:01 – we veered sharply off the trail and spent at least two hours bush-bashing through decidedly prickly vines and thorny vegetation. Samjee, another of our guides, took the lead and got busy with a machete, hacking a trail through the undergrowth.
We spent large sections of that day on our hands and knees, crawling under bushes and scrabbling through dense undergrowth. We even used vines like ropes where there was no other possible route. When we first heard the vocalisations of the chimpanzees that morning, they were celebrating another successful monkey hunt. But, by the time we reached them, there was no sign of the meat.
Many of the group were high up in the trees, and we only caught glimpses of them. So, we sat down and focused on the ten or so individuals on the ground nearby. Chimpanzees use a complicated system of sounds to communicate with one another. They accompany this with much touching, hand-holding, grooming, and even kissing. This was our last day in Mahale, and we enjoyed observing the group relaxing in the shadows.
A pair of surprise sightings
When it was time to leave, we reluctantly returned to the lodge. But Mahale hadn’t finished with us yet. Halfway back to camp, we came across a lone female chimpanzee and her baby in a tree beside the trail. We enjoyed another half an hour watching them.
The baby bounced up and down on branches, trying his best to intimidate us. Then, like a child with ADHD losing concentration, he performed some daredevil midair stunts. Suddenly remembering us again, he’d quickly do some more practice displaying. We could have watched him for hours. We returned to camp bruised, battered, and bleeding – but very, very happy.
Mondays and Thursdays are rest days for the chimps; no visitors go trekking on those days. This coincides with the twice-weekly flights in and out of the Mahale airstrip (a 90-minute boat ride away from the lodges). So, we spent our last morning on the lake in a wooden dhow.
It was cool, with no hint of the heat and humidity to come later in the day. While there are lions, zebras, giraffes, roans, sables, and hartebeest on the other side of the mountains, we, like most people, wouldn’t get that far.
However, we did see hippos, palm-nut vultures, and violet-backed starlings (new to us). And then—to round off a perfect morning—a leopard on the beach. He sat calmly on the sand, watching us pass by, looking like a cat who had just lapped from the gigantic saucer that is Lake Tanganyika.
Where to stay in Mahale
Greystoke Mahale
Greystoke Mahale sits on a pristine, white sandy beach overlooking the turquoise water of Lake Tanganyika, with the forested slopes of the Mahale Mountains rising behind.
It has just six en-suite wood and thatch bandas set on the forest’s edge. The rooms are tucked back into the forest line so that your only view is of the beach and the lake beyond. They’re also made almost entirely from sustainable materials sourced on Lake Tanganyika.
The central mess is the only structure on the beach, and days start there, eating breakfast while waiting to hear news of the chimps. Evenings end with sundowners on the rocks of the headland, where drinks are served around the lamp-lit bar.
Kungwe Beach Lodge
Kungwe Beach Lodge sits on a stretch of secluded golden beach surrounded by the dramatic mountain range and crystal clear waters of Lake Tanganyika.
On a gentle boat safari down the lake, you may encounter crocodiles, hippos and otters and an abundance of birdlife. Test your skills against the local methods of freshwater fishing and explore the lake on a kayak, or spend the day relaxing on the beach.
Enjoy a sundowner around a crackling fire in the evening while the sun slowly dips down over the mountains. This romantic getaway is the perfect blend of comfort and luxury.
About the Author
Born and raised in Sydney, Australia, before moving to Africa at the age of 21, Sarah Kingdom is a mountain guide, traveller, and mother of two. When not climbing, she also owns and operates a 3,000-hectare cattle ranch in central Zambia.
She guides and runs trips regularly in India, Nepal, Tibet, Russia, Turkey, and Uganda, and takes travellers up Tanzania’s Mount Kilimanjaro numerous times a year.
Located in southeastern Ethiopia, 400km from Addis Ababa, the Bale Mountains are a landscape created by volcanic fires and shaped by glacial ice.
The highlands are almost always ringed by clouds and covered in mist, rain or sleet. Giant lobelia plants stand guard over the undulating plateau and its numerous glacial lakes and swamps. You are surrounded on all sides by volcanic ridges and peaks.
Only about 200 people a year trek in the Bale Mountains, and given the recent unrest in Ethiopia tourist numbers nationwide are drastically down; so we pretty much had the place to ourselves.
We didn’t see another trekker for the week we spent in the park, and if it hadn’t been quite so cloudy when we climbed to the top of Tullu Demtu (Ethiopia’s second-highest mountain at 4,377m) I know there wouldn’t have been another person below us in this spectacular, ethereal landscape for as far as the eye could see.
Averaging 4,000m above sea level there is nowhere else like it on the African continent, a place where natural selection has been hard at work; plants, animals and birds have all been fine-tuned to withstand the extremes of temperature, oxygen depletion, fierce winds and extreme ultraviolet radiation.
The result has been the creation of an ecosystem that is one of those rare and rarefied places, where many of the things that live here are found nowhere else. There are more animals unique to these mountains than just about anywhere else on the planet!
The Bale Highlands are home to 20 endemic Ethiopian mammals (five of which, including the magnificent and endangered mountain nyala, are found only here), 12 endemic amphibians, 12 reptiles, 16 endemic birds and all the Bale monkeys and big-headed mole-rats in the world.
The Bale Mountains are rated one of the four top birding spots in Africa and it is easy to see why, with such rare birds as the blue-winged goose, Abyssinian catbird, spot-breasted plover and Abyssinian ground-hornbill to be seen.
Ethiopia has more than 860 species of bird, 283 of which are found in the Bale Mountains and 16 of which are endemic to these highlands.
Mountain nyala
In 1969, 215,000 hectares of the Bale Mountains were declared a National Park and in 2009 nominated as a World Heritage site. But Bale is not a national park in the normal western understanding of the concept.
Somewhere between 20,000 and 40,000 people live within the park’s boundaries, divided between local villagers in the Harrena forest and pastoralists tending cattle, sheep and horses on the Senetti Plateau. Stock numbers now exceed the sustainable utilisation of the fragile moorlands, threatening the food source of the rodents, who are in turn the principal food source of all the carnivores, including the Ethiopian wolf.
The star of the Bale show is undoubtedly the Ethiopian wolf (Canis simensis). With its thick, brick red coat on top and white belly below, its narrow snout and lithe body, it looks more like a large fox or a jackal than a wolf. The afro-alpine zone of the park is home to about half of the world’s total population of between 400 and 450 Ethiopian wolves – this is the rarest canid on the planet and Africa’s most endangered carnivore.
An even bigger threat to the wolves than the shortage of rodents to eat is the presence of several thousand domestic dogs in the park. These dogs are carriers of rabies and interact openly with the wolves. In 2010 rabies and distemper killed 106 of the wolves (about 40% of the Bale population at the time) and again in 2014 between 30 and 50% of the parks wolves were killed by rabies.
The numbers have recovered slightly now, due to a rabies vaccination project and the Ethiopian Wolf Conservation Project, which attempts to vaccinate 4000 domestic dogs, and all of the wolves in the park annually. We were lucky to see twelve wolves during our time in the park and also met some of the researchers working with the conservation project as they walked the plateau making notes on the wolves they saw.
Conservationists worry that if a viable solution is not found and efforts to control the unsustainable exploitation of the park’s natural resources are not successful, that not only the Ethiopian wolf but a number of other rare and endangered animals in Bale will vanish.
A week was barely long enough to do justice to this beautiful park. We trekked across approximately one-third of the park, starting in the tiny rural town of Dinsho, crossing the Senetti Plateau and finishing in the Harrena Forest. It was a ‘rustic’ style trip, food was basic, to say the least, our cook had a repertoire that consisted solely of rice with cabbage or pasta with tomato sauce, and we ate these dishes with regular monotony; always knowing that whichever we ate for lunch, the other would, without fail, appear at dinner!
The accommodation was tents, which were tiny but snug and warm and many mornings we awoke to find it covered with a layer of ice. This was an amazing opportunity to visit Ethiopia’s most important biodiversity hotspot and see some of the rarest creatures in the world.
Witnessing the birth of a wild animal is an incredibly rare and special event. Imagine the excitement when guests on safari at Nsefu Camp in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park could watch a spotted hyena giving birth.
A new hyena den was discovered near the camp recently, and while guests were admiring the pack of hyenas going about the family business, their guide, Julius, realised that one female was in the process of giving birth. The incredible arrival of three healthy hyena cubs followed, right before the guests’ wide eyes.
The proud mum briefly took her young cubs into the den before emerging with them again. Almost instantly, the three new siblings started testily sizing each other up to see who was king of the hill while the adults all watched on, seemingly entertained by the newcomers and their antics.
Female hyena anatomy – it’s no laughing matter
While any animal birth is awe-inspiring in its own way, hyena births are particularly interesting and, quite frankly, a little bizarre. We might know the hyena for its infamous ‘laugh’, but the female hyena anatomy is definitely no laughing matter.
Spotted hyenas live in a clan dominated by one female, known as the matriarch, and all females outrank males. While this is quite unusual in the animal kingdom, there is a good reason why girl power rules the hyena clans. Female hyenas have three times more testosterone in their bodies than their male counterparts! This results in them being more muscular and more aggressive. And, as if that wasn’t enough, it also causes the hyena females to grow a pseudo-penis!
This makes it incredibly difficult to differentiate between male and female hyenas. The females don’t have external vaginas and urinate through their pseudo-penises, just like the male hyenas. And, in case you were wondering, yes, they are capable of an erection.
Keen on an African safari? We have a range of ready-made options and our safari experts will also build one just for you.
Hardcore hyena moms
Just when you thought it couldn’t get any weirder, the poor female hyenas need to give birth through their pseudo-penis. No surprise here, but it’s quite a painful process for the mother and often tragic for her babies.
Hyenas usually bear litters of two to four cubs, but sadly about 60% of them suffocate on their way out. The mothers are also in danger as the birth canal is only an inch in diameter, often making the birthing process fatal, as evidenced by the high death rate for first-time mothers.
Cuddly cubs
Interestingly, the spotted hyena cubs are born with their eyes open, contrary to the other two species (the striped hyenas and brown hyenas). The hyena cubs will suckle for as long as 12 to 18 months, which is unusually long for carnivores.
At about 5 months old, they will begin to snack on meat from kills near the den. Then when they are about a year old, cubs begin to follow their mothers on their hunting and scavenging forays. Until then, they are left behind at the den with a babysitting adult.
It’s rare and wonderful sightings like witnessing the birth of hyena cubs that make the South Luangwa National Park such a epic safari destination.
The Kruger National Park is South Africa’s flagship national park. Wherever you are in the world, if you’re even remotely interested in the safari experience in Africa, you’ve likely heard of the Kruger. It offers a wilderness safari experience that is right up there with the best that Africa has to offer. There’s so much to see and so many adventures to be had in Kruger, that it’s always helpful to figure out what kind of safari experience you want before embarking on the trip of a lifetime!
That’s why this article is a must-read for all first-time visitors to the greater Kruger National Park area, and repeat visitors keen for a change. Essentially, there are two options for your safari to this area: a lodge-based safari in some of the Greater Kruger’s more luxurious safari lodges, or a self-drive visit to the adjacent national park, overnighting inside the park in the traditional chalets or camping facilities offered by SANParks.
By looking at some of the advantages of both options, you can make an informed decision before embarking on one of the greatest journeys of your life to one of the best safari destinations Africa has to offer!
Private Kruger lodges
My wife and I are experienced safari-goers, having travelled to most national parks in southern Africa (the whole spectrum, from luxury lodging to wilderness camping). We recently headed to the Greater Kruger region to experience a lodge-based safari to refresh our minds about why we love this special wilderness area of Africa so much. We visited two very different lodges, each with its unique appeal – and each reminded us why this is such a fantastic option for safari-goers.
The first lodge we stayed was called Rhino Post Safari Lodge, which also has Rhino Walking Safaris’ Plains Camp, where we stayed for two nights. These lodges are inside the national park, and the focus here is on delivering a great bushwalking safari – highly recommended. Although we were lucky enough to spot lions, cheetahs, rhinos, a large herd of buffalo and a whole host of other game on foot, it dawned on me that it’s the finer details that matter most when considering this type of safari.
You’re gifted with the time to better understand how the bush functions, the circle of life in Africa and the fascinating biodiverse ecosystems that play host to these special animals – all of which are a privilege to see in the wild. Only a few special places in Africa offer such authentic, wild bushwalking experiences, and this is one of them. The opportunity to learn about the African bushveld, while being in the heart of one of Africa’s most precious wilderness areas is extraordinary. That is something you can experience first-hand when staying at a lodge.
We then spent two nights at Umlani Bush Camp, in the prestigious Timbavati Private Game Reserve, which is famous for excellent game viewing. There’s no electricity here, although there is a generator for power to charge your devices and for limited wifi access, and lighting is done with lanterns, which adds to the charm and makes for a romantic setting. Here we had the chance to sit back, relax and unwind with a magnificent view of the wild Kruger as we watched elephants and other wildlife make their way past the camp from our viewing deck.
This is a different kind of wilderness experience, being an eco-lodge run almost entirely off the grid and well off the beaten path of the tourist routes. If you consider that the national park attracts roughly half a million tourists every year, why not be one of the tourists that escape the crowds? That’s the experience that Umlani – and indeed many of the other private lodges in the Great Kruger – offers travellers seeking personal, intimate experiences in wild places.
So, why would you consider visiting a lodge instead of exploring the Kruger on a self-drive basis? As a first-time traveller to South Africa, it’s definitely worth the money to spend a few nights at a lodge. Firstly, everything is catered for, and you are treated like royalty. The food and accommodation are excellent, the service is five-star, and the rangers who guide you on the safari are incredibly professional and knowledgeable. You are guaranteed to have some excellent sightings, and you might even be lucky enough to see all of the Big 5, including the ever-elusive leopard.
To drive around in an open game-viewing vehicle, exploring the small gravel tracks, and taking in the sights, sounds and smells of nature is good soul food.
What’s nice about the game drives is that no more than three vehicles are allowed at a sighting. The pressure and human interference with the animals are kept to an absolute minimum and guests are ensured excellent viewing opportunities. The rangers are also allowed to go off-road, which provides good sightings.
Also, if you’re a first-time visitor to the park, the expert bush knowledge of the highly professional guides and staff at the lodges is invaluable in creating those unique, wild memories of your first Kruger experience.
Lodges offer the traveller a luxury experience, with fantastic food, excellent game viewing and photographic opportunities and five-star service and accommodation. This is the kind of safari experience that is guaranteed to stay with you for a lifetime.
Find out about the Greater Kruger for your next African safari. You can choose a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.
Self-drive Kruger safari
So, after touching on the fantastic safari you can experience at a lodge, why would you even consider a self-drive Kruger National Park safari?
Because a self-drive and self-catering Kruger safari has so much to offer the wild traveller! The Kruger boasts an incredible array of activities, including self-drives, guided game drives and night drives, guided bush walks and wilderness trails, and even mountain biking, to name a few. There’s also a whole range of accommodation options, including guesthouses, chalets, bush camps and rustic camping. These might not be as luxurious as the private lodge options, but they offer a completely different experience – one that is more rustic, intimate and authentically Kruger, taking you back in time to when the park was first opened to tourists in the early 1900s.
The Kruger is an incredible place, and the diversity of game and different habitats from north to south is astounding. There’s an excellent road network in a wilderness area of two million hectares, which is about the size of Israel!
I have thought a lot about the Kruger self-drive experience and what makes this flagship national park stand out for me. Yes, it can be busy with other tourists, and there may be some traffic jams at sightings, but there are also real wilderness areas and roads with meagre traffic numbers, especially in the north. Even on the busy roads, it is still a unique wilderness and a privilege to enjoy.
So what makes the Kruger self-drive experience so unique?
I don’t think there are a lot of places where you can still take a map, plan a route and travel through Big 5 country on your own, on your own timing. The choice of where your adventure takes you is in your own hands. That freedom to explore this magnificent wilderness is, for me, the quintessential Kruger experience.
With such a vast wilderness to explore and with enough time, a Kruger self-drive could give you the strongest sense of freedom you’ve felt in a long time.
I often think that in our busy lives in the 21st century, we all miss the adventure of life—we all long to reconnect with the wild and to have our hearts filled. That’s exactly what a safari to the Kruger offers and is something I feel each time I visit—that sense of fulfilment, that re-connection. That’s something to consider if you’re considering a safari trip to Africa. The Kruger will give you that. How you experience it is up to you.
Find out about the Greater Kruger for your next African safari. You can choose a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Anton lives in Pretoria, South Africa, and works in his family’s property development and investment business. He and his wife, Renate, both have a passion for wildlife, with a particular interest in birds.
Some pressure groups regularly call to boycott tourism in certain African countries, reacting to the death of animals that could conceivably have been prevented.
This is particularly so when the animals are hunted or culled or when the government in question has been slow in preventing human-wildlife conflict situations that result in the death of animals. And the resulting angst is magnified when a charismatic, named animal dies.
I disagree with the strategy to boycott tourism. After personally engaging with several pressure groups over the years, I thought I would summarise my basic counterargument in this opinion editorial.
The logic seems to be that threatening the government’s treasured tourism revenue streams will convince them to change their ways, thereby saving the animals. This logic does not hold up to scrutiny because damaging the tourism industry will result in:
1. Fewer people being employed in tourism, and those in rural areas (where the animals are and where there is little scope for alternative employment) could then turn to some form of wildlife extraction (as they did in the past) to meet their basic needs. Habitats will be modified to suit cattle and goats and tolerance of wild animals, which are often a threat to lives and livelihoods, will disappear. In other words, more animals will die, and ecosystems will be damaged.
2. Less tourism revenue for government coffers, and the resultant need to switch to alternative revenue streams in order to keep the lights on – such as hunting, mining, fishing, logging etc. In other words, more animals will die, and ecosystems will be ruined.
And so, the call for tourism boycotts to save animals is logically flawed.
The personal dimension
All of us who care react emotionally when confronted with upsetting imagery and seek the end of the carnage. And herein lies the rub – most calls to boycott tourism come from a deeply personal place, and the call for a boycott is really saying, ‘if you don’t change your ways to reflect my personal ideology, I will take you down’.
This is where some people lose the plot and cross the line into hypocrisy. Many of those who argue aggressively to boycott tourism are from the Western world, where most wildlife has been removed, and the countryside has been tamed and turned into wealth that provides a comfortable lifestyle, free of the daily issues that plague most African countries. There seems to be a pervading view amongst this sect of people that Africa should be a wild and undeveloped place so that they can feel at peace with life.
Some of this personal bias is because of the ongoing ‘Disneyfication’ of Africa, where mainstream media portrays Africa as having two dimensions: On the one hand, we have sprawling human poverty, and on the other hand, we have pristine wilderness sans humans, where animals roam freely.
Here at Africa Geographic, we host active discussions on a 24/7 basis that stem from our articles. And so often, the reaction on Facebook to tragic news such as R.I.P Tullamore, the last lion of the 5 Musketeers is: “What are humans doing there in the first place? They should be removed!”.
The inconvenient truth, of course, is that humans live in these vast areas where lions and elephants roam and have done so since before the Western world was ravaged by humans. Humans are expanding their ranges in Africa, as they are doing all over the world, and human-wildlife conflict is increasing. We need solutions for that, and boycotting the entire tourism industry is not one of those solutions.
This might come as a shock to those who have grown up believing in a ‘Disney’ Africa and who think that entire countries should bow to their personal demands. There is a really big need in the Western world, particularly among social media activists, for education about the real Africa.
During a recent Facebook discussion with a person from Europe – who called for boycotts of Namibia because of the named lion Tullamore’s death (refer to the link above) – I questioned whether they had called for boycotts of their own country because it voted at the recent CITES Council of the Parties conference in favour of trade in ivory, baby elephants and lion parts. Their reaction? “My country does not have safaris, so we cannot boycott them.” Such is the depth of their Western world indoctrination about Africa.
The best way to build up any African country’s wildlife and ecosystems is to help them justify to their people why these animals should be tolerated and that the ecosystems should not be turned to pasture for cattle and goats. Tourism is a massive part of that process. Yes, many African countries have corruption problems, and many are not very efficient in carrying out their duties, but name one country in the world that is free of these issues. Just one.
Madikwe is a special place with such a high diversity of animals that one just never knows what’s in store for a group of photographers. Written by Francois van Heerden (photographic guide)
And this Africa Geographic safari was no different! On our very first drive, we set out eagerly to see what the reserve had to offer – and found the elusive wild dogs!
“Leopard Rock was excellent, extremely homely and friendly. Francois was brilliant, offering great photographic advice and really doing his best to show us as much as possible. Incredibly knowledgeable.” ~ comment and photograph by Bruce Braithwaite
Earlier that morning the pack managed to corner a big bull kudu, but this kudu did not back down and fought for his life – until the dogs (and the kudu) were so exhausted that there was a stalemate. We thought the kudu might get away as the dogs moved off later that afternoon, but the next morning, we found out that the wild dogs’ persistence had paid off, and they had managed to overpower the kudu.
On the next two drives, we saw two separate male lion coalitions, brown hyena (which is always a highlight), and loads of general game, including herds of elephant at the lodge waterhole, which offered perfect photographic opportunities.
Our plan for the second afternoon was to head to the river for some bird photography. But any good plan can be turned on its head, and we found ourselves watching herd after herd of elephants coming down to the river to drink.
We stayed with the elephants in lovely back-lit conditions, practising our photography skills in the tricky light.
“We had a fantastic time in Madikwe and Francois is an amazing guide. Everything there was absolutely perfect, also our involuntary encounter with a black mamba.”~ comment and photograph by Robert Leder
The next morning of our Madikwe safari, as the sun was rising, we set out to find the wild dogs again, and luckily we managed to find them! Eventually, we realised that they were heading back to their kudu kill – which we had heard had attracted spotted hyenas. Realising we might see some predator interaction, we followed the wild dogs with anticipation.
We positioned ourselves in a good spot close to the hyenas and waited for the dogs. At first, they stood a distance away, but after a while, they built up the courage and came running in with a high-pitched chattering – trying to intimidate the hyenas off the carcass.
The dogs managed to corner one hyena, but the rest just stood their ground close to the kill. The hyenas had the upper hand as they had numbers on their side, and eventually, the dogs left the hyenas with the carcass.
After that, we continued following the dogs until we lost sight of them in some very thick bush. In awe and full memory cards, we stopped for a mug of warm coffee.
As if we couldn’t get any luckier, after coffee, we saw two cheetahs posing nicely on top of a termite mound. We took the opportunity to photograph them from various angles and compositions.
The last evening was spent with a lovely braai under a star-lit evening, reminiscing about our exciting week of photography and game viewing, celebrating the forming of new friendships and creating long-lasting memories.
Find out about Madikwe for your next African safari. You can choose a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.
Tullamore, the last of the famous ‘5 musketeers’ desert-adapted lions of northern Namibia, has been killed in the Okongue area, along with a lioness and two cubs, in the ongoing battle between rural cattle farmers and free-roaming lions. The lions were poisoned. Tullamore was the last surviving member of a group of 5 desert-adapted lions made famous by the movie ‘The Vanishing Kings’.
Since Vanishing Kings was made, Tullamore’s 4 musketeer comrades were all killed by farmers – three were poisoned, and one was shot in 2016. Tullamore was then moved to the Okongue area for his own safety. He then became the dominant male of a new pride, some of whom were killed with him in this latest incident. Both Tullamore and the lioness carried collars, which were allegedly burned after the killings. The killings may have happened a while ago, as Tullamore was reported missing by researcher Flip Stander in early April.
Records dating back to 1934 reflect these big cats inhabiting the northern Namib desert along the Skeleton Coast in Namibia. It was then observed that desert-adapted lions were common in the coastal mountains and riverbeds between the lower Kuiseb River and the Kunene River. They were believed to be plentiful in the Kaokoveld and along the Kunene valley. The Skeleton Coast National Park was proclaimed in 1967, and since then, Namibian desert-adapted lions have been put on the map as an iconic species of this unique desert region.
Today, the population of an estimated 150 lions is under pressure from human influence, with human-lion conflict the primary threat.
For more information about Namibia’s desert-adapted lions and to view a gallery of photos, click here.
Niassa Wilderness, one of Africa’s last true wilderness areas, is driving a brave new conservation model to protect this iconic paradise. Read the full story here.
“Are we seriously landing there?” The Cessna Caravan was heading towards a massive rocky dome, and what appeared to be a short dirt track in a dense sea of woodland. But, as we skimmed over a wide sandy riverbed, the track morphed into a landing strip. We bumped down and taxied to a halt. Paradise found. Niassa.
This landscape leaves me speechless. ‘Jurassic’ is possibly the best way to describe it. Yet, there is so much more to it than that. There is a powerful presence here, a heady blend of raw fecundity and ancient whispers that sets this vast landscape apart. This is how Africa used to be before it was colonised and reshaped.
This was my second visit to paradise. I was here to assist a special group of conservationists who are preserving the largest concession within Niassa National Reserve for the Mozambican people.
Stepping out of the Cessna and into the baking November heat, we were met by Director of Conservation and Law Enforcement Derek Littleton and his able team. Later that evening, Derek explained to our film and photographic crew that Niassa Wilderness is a privately managed concession within the Niassa National Reserve, comprising over 10 percent of the entire reserve.
The logistical realities of patrolling such a vast area are immense, especially during the rainy season when large parts of the reserve are flooded, making them inaccessible to all but determined poachers. During our brief visit, we came to appreciate how difficult the task is. This is illustrated by the plight of the elephants in the massive and remote 42,000 km² Niassa National Reserve. Rampant commercial poaching has caused elephant populations across the reserve to plummet by more than 70 per cent. In 2012 there were 12,000 elephants here; in 2016 only 3,500 remained.
At 4,450 km², the newly named Niassa Wilderness is the largest of 17 concessions in the national reserve. It hosts 20 percent of the entire elephant population and the largest number of intact breeding herds and mature bulls.
In 2000, Niassa Wilderness (then called Lugenda Wildlife Reserve, or ‘Luwire’) became the first concession in the reserve to be allocated and subsequently funded by a private investor. Since then, it has operated as a responsible trophy hunting concession.
A luxury photographic tourism lodge, Lugenda Wilderness Camp, was built in 2006 but closed at the end of 2015 to focus on anti-poaching efforts. It now serves as Niassa Wilderness HQ and as a venue for hosting donors and media teams. Due to the increase in elephant poaching, all elephant trophy hunting was voluntarily brought to a halt from 2012.
The new Board of Directors has decided to phase out all hunting and source funds from donors to fund anti-poaching efforts instead. The new funding model ensures authentic community inclusion and that 100 percent of donor funding will go into conservation and community activities. The Board of Directors serves voluntarily, and advice and assistance are drawn from a network of similarly philanthropic professionals.
One warm evening around the campfire, Derek explained the added level of complexity that makes this task so difficult. About 35,000 people are living in 40 villages inside the national reserve. Niassa Wilderness incorporates seven of those villages.
These isolated people have no access to jobs and have historically eked out a subsistence lifestyle from the bush. They fish, gather honey and hunt for bushmeat, skins and ivory. They also grow tobacco and food crops, which are raided daily by wild animals. Villagers are frequently attacked and sometimes killed, by crocodiles, hippos, elephants and lions.
In short, wildlife for these people represents either food or danger. Therein lies the conservation challenge. And, now that poaching has moved beyond subsistence levels into commercial operations, the challenge is exponentially more significant.
As we listened to a lion groan from somewhere in the pitch darkness, Derek remarked that he has a team of only 40 anti-poaching staff. That’s one person for every 11,250 hectares. To even begin to assert themselves on poachers, he’ll need a minimum crew of 75 people – one for every 6,000 hectares. This stark statistic puts the situation and his ambitions into sharp relief.
Trophy hunting in the concession has been strictly controlled and sustainably managed. It used to serve the vital role of preventing all but subsistence poaching. But, even a well-run hunting operation has been powerless to stop the rampant commercial poaching that has hammered elephant populations in recent years. Derek and his team now plan to increase the level of protection activities significantly. They also want to involve communities in the drive to purge the reserve of poachers.
The need for more military-style protection was driven home to me during a lengthy drive along rutted dirt roads to visit one of the seven villages within the concession. Brian Johnson, who manages the current trophy hunting activities, was at the wheel. I asked him why hunting is better than photographic tourism in keeping poachers at bay.
“Look,” he said bluntly, “a bunch of macho hunters packing 375s is a bigger threat to poachers than a carload of tourists packing Nikons.”
There you have it.
One evening, I was enjoying a spectacular African sunset on the banks of the Lugenda River with the new Niassa Wilderness CEO Greg Reis, a trusted and valued friend of long-standing. He shared his hopes for the future with me.
“We’re phasing out hunting in favour of donor funding,” said Greg. And we’ve made the communities and wildlife the beneficiaries of the trust. Our entire team, from the Board of Directors to management and dedicated hard-working anti-poaching rangers, has decided to be on the right side of history, to put Niassa before short-term monetary gain.”
He paused. “Now, surely, is the time for the anti-hunting fraternity to get behind this brave project. This is one of Africa’s last true wilderness areas, with excellent intact habitat. However, wildlife suffers under the massive pressure of poaching.
“We need funds to bring more local people from our communities onto the right side, to give them reason to protect wild animals and their environment. It’s time to move beyond words; it’s time to make a real difference.”
Perhaps one day Niassa too will offer adventurous travellers the opportunity to experience true African wilderness. Until then, the brave and visionary Niassa Wilderness team will hold the fort. Will you help them? A luta continua!
Niassa Wilderness would not be possible without the vision and significant investment of Adel Aujan, a businessman who fell in love with Niassa. He was the first to sign up for an initial 25-year lease on the concession, and to invest in the reserve. Aujan passed away in January 2017, but his family continues their involvement in Niassa Wilderness.
IT’S ALL ABOUT CO-OPERATION
The Mozambican government manages its protected areas via the National Conservation Areas Authority (ANAC), which provides the legal framework for conservation activities in Niassa.
Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS), working closely with ANAC, has overall management responsibility for Niassa Reserve and, amongst other things, provides vital coordination between the various concession holders in the reserve.
Vast wild areas like Niassa are best managed in close collaboration with neighbours who will support you while you do the same for them. Niassa Wilderness continues to work closely in partnership with neighbouring Niassa Reserve properties Mariri and Chuilexi, a formal alliance established from 2016, that serves all parties well.
Size Niassa National Reserve: 42,000 km² / 4,2 million hectares. (Twice the size of South Africa’s Kruger National Park.) Niassa Wilderness (concession within the reserve): 4,450 km² / 445,000 hectares.
Location Northern Mozambique, bordering Tanzania.
Habitat Miombo woodland, granite inselbergs, open savannah, wetlands, river floodplains and riverine forest.
Wildlife 350 African wild dogs (significant in relation to the global population of an estimated 6,600 adults). Endemic species:Niassa wildebeest, Boehm’s zebra, and Johnston’s impala.
Elephant, Cape buffalo, lion, leopard, hippo, crocodile, sable antelope, Lichtenstein hartebeest, Livingstone’s eland, common reedbuck, klipspringer and others. Over 400 bird species.
Simon Espley is an African of the digital tribe, a chartered accountant and CEO of Africa Geographic. He travels extensively in Africa, seeking wilderness, real people and elusive birds.
ET the aardvark was found and brought to me at ZURI Orphanage, situated outside Tsumeb, Namibia, in August 2015. Small and alien-like in appearance, ET settled in quickly with life on the farm. Told by Erika de Jager and written by Nina Joubert
We have a house full of cats and dogs but settling in an aardvark was a completely different experience. There is very little written about aardvarks, so we had to learn as we went along.
After a month, ET became strong enough to go for walks with the dogs on the farm.
Gradually he started digging and especially loved old aardvark holes. He got more inquisitive by the day, teaching himself how to eat and walk around the house. That’s when he moved into my bottom kitchen cupboard.
ET has a very playful personality, and I got to experience it every day. I loved playing games with him. Eventually, he got too energetic for us to handle in the house, so we started leaving him by an old aardvark gat (burrow).
Here he learned what it meant to be an aardvark in the wild. It was nice to see him adapt to a more normal aardvark life. We fetched him in the morning because it gave me peace of mind. In my eyes, he was still the little aardvark that was given a second chance at life and I wanted to be sure that he would be safe.
Every morning we tracked him to his hole and I would stand outside with a bowl of his cereal in hand and call his name. Soon enough, a little nose would appear from the burrow. I will never forget these mornings when we waited in anticipation for him to make his appearance.
Eventually, it wasn’t necessary to track him anymore as one night in February ET made a surprise appearance on our stoep (veranda). There he was, back home all the way from his burrow almost two kilometres away!
I immediately made him a bowl of cereal, and he ate it happily. Since that night, ET has been coming almost every night. Sometimes he doesn’t come, and I start to think the worst. Then he appears again and we see that he has been walking around with another set of aardvark footprints…
I cannot explain the different emotions I feel when I see ET. We formed a bond. He comes when I call him, but I can see that he is getting wilder every day. He is skittish around new people, and when we are having a braai (barbecue) with friends, he doesn’t come at all.
Other times he comes earlier than expected and if I haven’t put out his cereal yet he pushes against my bedroom door to let me know that he is here. This never ceases to bring me joy.
Every time I see him, it is magic, and every time he leaves I’m a little sad. But his visits reassure me that he is doing good.
So many people know so little about these creatures, including ourselves, and ET became an ambassador of sorts. He gave us a glimpses into the life of an aardvark and us the opportunity to see this amazing animal up close.
Have a look at ZURI’s Facebook page to see updates on ET and the other animals in their care at the orphanage.
A large leadwood tree near Nandzana waterhole in South Africa’s Kruger National Park contains a much sought-after nest cavity that has been used by a range of species over the years. Here, I witnessed a titanic battle between a squirrel and a parrot. Written and photographed by Andre Botha
Lilac-breasted rollers, pearl-spotted owlets, yellow-billed hornbills, glossy starlings and tree squirrels have been recorded using this cavity for nesting or roosting. Sought-after real estate!
One winter morning, I witnessed a tussle between one of the current occupants of the nest, a pair of brown-headed parrots, and a tree squirrel that dared to venture too close to the nest.
Fortunately, the parrot was too quick and evaded serious damage, whereas the squirrel’s tail looked quite the worse for wear. It eventually scuttled down the tree and out of sight.
We stood on the rim of the caldera, the immense volcanic amphitheatre of the Cirque de Mafate, on the French island of Réunion. As far as the eye could see sheer walls of lush green vegetation encircled the seemingly endless and mythical world before us.
Technically part of France, yet sitting in the middle of the Indian Ocean, Réunion is a land of contrasts. The perimeter of the island is hot and sunny, with sandy beaches and warm water. Whereas the mountainous interior boasts the highest point in the Indian Ocean, Piton des Neiges, and is cool, damp and regularly shrouded in clouds.
A huge part of Réunion’s appeal is found high above sea level, inside the towering volcanic calderas left behind from the island’s violent volcanic history. These calderas, or cirques, offer amazing hiking opportunities and have more than 1,000 kilometres of hiking trails.
Cirque de Mafate, on the rim of which we now stood, was formed when the magma chamber of Piton des Neiges, or ‘snow peak’, collapsed some three million years ago, and is unique in that the entire cirque, which contains over 200km of hiking trails, has no roads and is accessible only by foot or helicopter.
The name ‘Mafate’ comes from the Malagasy word ‘mahafaty’, which means ‘lethal’ or ‘the one who kills’, an allusion to the difficulty in accessing this cirque.
The first settlers arrived in Mafate’s lush volcanic crater in the 18th century. Today, Mafate’s roughly 800 inhabitants (known as Mafatais) live in tiny villages called îlets, a local Creole word that comes from the French, îlots, meaning ‘islands of greenery’. Approximately ten villages in the cirque consist of just a handful of colourful, tin-roofed houses. There is no electricity or water grid in the entire (approximately 100km²) valley.
Doctors, police officers, teachers or foresters, if or when needed, either have to hike in or be brought in by helicopter and the same for the residents’ provisions. In 2010, UNESCO designated Mafate (as well as Réunion’s two other, more accessible cirques and all the island’s pitons and ramparts) as a World Heritage site, and this has led to an increase in tourism in the area.
You could spend days hiking the network of beautiful trails covering Réunion Island, visiting rainforests, volcanoes and waterfalls while camping out or staying with local villagers in mountain gîtes (small cabins). Many people do multi-day or even week-long hikes through the cirques, but sadly, as we were challenged for time, our only option was a day hike down into Mafate.
Hiking is an excellent way to experience this wild and isolated area, though the hundreds of kilometres of trails are definitely not for those suffering from vertigo and should not be hiked alone. Fortunately, I was accompanied by Nico, a local Réunionese guide, who not only knew the way but also filled me in on all kinds of information as we descended through the gathering clouds and headed off into the wilderness of Réunion Island.
The amphitheatre-shaped valley is accessible from a half-dozen trailheads, some leading over steep mountain passes, others along rivers and gullies, which lead to the network of narrow hiking trails that connect the hamlets. We planned a steep, sharp descent to Roche Plate (1110m) which was somewhere way below us, tucked out of sight.
The sun slipped in and out from behind the clouds, and the temperature alternated from pleasantly cool to hot and humid. We were overtaken by some young, enthusiastic, rucksack-laden hikers who quite literally ran down the mountainside.
As we were only intending a day hike and had no intention of mimicking their frighteningly breakneck speed, we moved over and let them pass. As we descended we met red-faced, breathless hikers making their ascent back up the rugged steep valley walls – I tried not to think too much about the fact that this would be us in a few hours’ time!
We had planned to eat at one of the local gîteswhen we reached Roche Plate, but the view was too breathtaking to contemplate eating indoors. Stopping at a vantage point just above the village we ate the traditional sweet potato cakes and pain au chocolat we had brought with us. The view was mesmerising and we spent an hour contemplating the vast expanse of the green volcanic crater in front of us.
Finally dragging ourselves away we began the steep ascent back the way we had come – fortunately arriving at the top a lot less red-faced than some of the other trekkers had been!
Hiking in an extinct volcano is definitely something to add to your bucket list, it is just as fantastic as it sounds.
My trip to Reunion was arranged by The Reunion Tourism Board whose website has a great deal of helpful information about the many aspects of this amazing destination, and Nicolas Cyprien was my guide while hiking Cirque de Mafate.
Rhinos throughout South Africa are being brutally killed for their horns. In this article, I would like to focus on some of the positive contributions by the private sector and the trials and tribulations they face in trying to keep rhinos safe – including the need for sustainable funding of private rhino conservation.
Many articles in circulation paint a very negative picture of private rhino owners as greedy businessmen with no compassion. Although there are some bad apples in the private wildlife industry, these are certainly in the minority, and most private rhino owners have chosen their lifestyles (and livelihoods) based on a love of nature, the African bushveld, and wildlife.
Private reserve owners with rhinos protect their land with adequate fences, good technology and sufficient manpower – and they do so without assistance from taxpayer money, government or donors. So in essence, they are self-sufficient conservationists.
In 2016, 1054 rhinos were poached in South Africa, and of these, about 160 were on private land – about 15% of the total- which is proof that private rhino reserves are working very hard to keep their animals safe.
Private rhino reserves are staffed by tough, dedicated and professional people who strive for the health and well-being of many species of wildlife on the property. These people have years of experience in the bush and generally have a background in nature conservation studies – further testament to their passion for wildlife. These are the people who first come across cruelly poached rhinos and who often must deal with orphaned rhino calves, badly injured adult rhinos, and severely traumatised staff.
There are about 330 private rhino reserves in South Africa – home to about 6,500 rhinos – almost a third of the national rhino population, and more rhinos than all the rest of Africa combined. Since 2008, more than 70 private rhino owners have sold their rhinos and opted out of having them on their land. This is due to the ever-increasing risk to rhinos as well as to reserve employees from armed incursions by gangs who wish to kill the rhinos for their horns.
The levels of cruelty seen in rhino poaching incidents leave great emotional distress in their wake, both for the animals and the people who care for them. Numerous rhino owners, wildlife veterinarians, anti-poaching teams and others involved in rhino management are starting to speak out on the effects of these incidents on their psychological well-being – a terrible trauma to have to endure after seeing these animals grow up, play, breed and thrive on your own property.
For many private rhino owners, who run close-knit and often family-operated reserves, the idea of having to endure this is enough for them to sell their rhinos on to someone else, who may be better-equipped or in a better financial situation to be able to protect rhinos.
The costs of protecting rhinos have now reached exorbitant levels, with security measures amounting to considerably more than the overall expenses of general management and conservation of rhinos. Private rhino owners have spent more than R2 billion on rhino security over the past eight years. Without some means of generating these funds, more and more private rhino owners will sell or get rid of their rhinos.
Eco-tourism is a business option for a few private reserves, such as Phinda, Shamwari and Manyoni. Still, tourism is seasonal, and most tourists (national and international) visit national parks rather than smaller private reserves. Some reserves allow hunting to supplement income, but with regard to rhinos, this is not the norm – fewer than 80 rhinos were hunted in SA in 2016. Ideally, the buying and selling of live animals to other rhino owners and private and national reserves (for genetic diversity/population establishment, etc.) will bring in these funds. Still, with rhinos being so costly and difficult to protect, fewer people are willing to take them on. The value of live rhinos has dropped dramatically over the past few years.
If these rhino guardians and our national parks could sell their stockpiles of horn—a sustainable natural product that is humanely taken from rhinos—the money generated from these sales would go a long way towards keeping the rhinos and other wildlife on the reserve safe and encouraging more private wildlife reserve owners to invest in rhino conservation once more.
The judges had a tough time this year choosing our wildlife category winner in the Photographer of the Year competition as there were so many amazing finalists.
It got to a point where they had whittled it down to five wildlife photographs. However, it was clear that all five were perfect contenders for first place! A tough decision had to be made…
In the end there could be only one wildlife winner – who went on to become the overall Photographer of the Year winner – and the judges felt that the remaining four photographs should be given a special commendable mention.
♦ Johan Mocke – “He who adapts best, wins!” (Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa/Botswana)
This photo had us jumping out of our seats from the moment we first saw it. At first glance, this is opportunistic photography at its finest. Anyone who’s spent just one day out in the bush with a camera will know what we’re talking about. But, if you’ve been lucky enough, as we have, to sit staring at this photo (sometimes thirty minutes on its own) debating and deliberating, you’ll know that this photograph is something more – it’s the symbol of a pure passion and dedication to wildlife photography.
It takes a passionate interest in this jackal’s behaviour for the photographer to know how to capture this exact moment. In a world of instantaneous and forgotten moments, the ability to vividly capture a moment like this is special. We greatly appreciate that, and as far as forgotten moments are concerned, well, the jackal would go on to hunt many more sandgrouse – but likely never be so perfectly captured in action again. Thus, this photograph was a strong contender for the winner’s prize.
♦ George Turner – A magical shower (Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania)
This photo clearly spells one thing for us: magic. There is magic in the way the photographer has captured the mixture of ethereal lighting and the soft and tranquil rain, and in the photographer’s words, “the effect of creating hope”. That alone makes this a stunning photograph.
The fact that there’s a perfectly captured subject of Africa’s most graceful and elegant cat adds to the magic. This is a Narnia-esque photo where the cheetah seems to be inviting you into his world. This stunningly captured evocative story that perfectly illustrates the graceful side of these magic cats made it a strong contender for the winner.
♦ Panos Laskarakis – “Thirsty look” (Serengeti National Park, Tanzania)
This photograph speaks to us deeply of raw, wild Africa. This is not Africa imagined or created – this is real Africa. If there was one standout photograph that could be used to portray a sense of untamed wilderness, it would be this ‘chocolate lion’.
The focused look in the lion’s eyes and the mud on its fur, tells the story of an entirely wild creature living an entirely wild existence. The fact that this magnificent creature was captured in one of the wildest places on Earth, the Serengeti, is fitting. We strive to celebrate real, wild Africa and the success of this photograph in that regard made it a very strong contender for the winner.
♦ Ernest Porter – A rock monitor hides in a tree (Ndumo Game Reserve, South Africa)
Never have we so kindly received such an open invitation into the world of reptiles than the story captured in this photograph. Who does that piercing stare belong to? How long has it been staring at us for? Are we intruding on it its territory? It seems likely that it’ll slink off in the blink of an eye – will we ever see it again?
The multiple stories in a single moment so perfectly captured in this photograph made it a strong contender for the overall winner.
After an exhausting final selection process involving many hours of both technical analysis and heartfelt opinions from our judges, we were faced with the exhilarating task of having to choose an overall winner and category winners for this year’s Photographer of the Year competition. Have a look at this post to see how difficult choosing a winner became.
We have been extraordinarily privileged to have had the opportunity to immerse ourselves in the rich stories and emotion evoked by the deserving finalists’ images. And we came to a collective understanding through this: that standout photography presents the perfect mixture of the moment captured by the photographer and the ensuing emotional reaction and journey for the viewer.
We felt that the overall winner’s photo would be the one that told the most engaging story – the one that spoke to all of us on a deep, emotional level. And the one that we hope will convey its underlying message to all our community spread far and wide across the world.
Congratulations to all our winners! And thank you to everyone who joined us in celebrating Africa!
2017 PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR & WILDLIFE CATEGORY WINNER John Vosloo – “Circles of protection.” Judges’ comments:
John Vosloo’s image is not only technically sound, but there is also a rich and complex visual story. It is the story of matriarchal and herd protection, of the African elephants’ dignified dedication to protecting their young and their species.
Elephants face unprecedented persecution from international wildlife criminals, from human-wildlife conflict pressures, habitat loss and from trophy hunters that persist in their strategy to remove the remaining large-tusked individuals. This magnificent photo speaks of the plight of elephants across Africa, and their resilience – if only humans would change their ways.
Many photographers this year have told wonderful stories with their images, but none as powerfully as John.
CULTURE CATEGORY WINNER Christophe Lapeze – “Proud” Judges’ comments:
Christophe Lapeze’s image of a proud Mursi woman in Ethiopia is, for us, the most evocatively told story of tribal culture in this year’s selection. This particular shot stands out above the other photos in this category as a bold and strong portrayal of cultural authenticity – almost as if the woman had taken it herself.
Here, she is not being ‘staged’ or ‘showcased’ as has become the somewhat blurred norm with cultural photography. She seems to be showcasing herself, sending a bold statement of pride in her culture, and our obligation to respect it. Our refreshed sense of respect for her and her culture is what ultimately decided this photo as the winner of the Culture category.
TRAVEL CATEGORY WINNER Willem Kruger – Quiver trees in the Richtersveld Judges’ comments:
Willem Kruger’s star trail image is another standout image in its genre. While most astrophotography invites us to explore the universe beyond, this particular photo with its seemingly simple foreground, invites us to explore the wonder of the universe from a uniquely African perspective – what if we were walking, alone at night, lost in the African desert pondering the mysteries of life and the secrets of our universe? What if we climbed that hill to discover more? What world would be revealed to us?
Reeling under a massive backlash from supporters of the captive lion hunting industry and a huge split within the ranks of its membership, the president of the Professional Hunting Association of South Africa [Phasa], Stan Burger, unexpectedly announced his resignation on Tuesday with immediate effect. Written by Simon Bloch for News24
In a statement, Phasa said its President-Elect, Dries Van Coller, will now be at the helm.
Asked what had led to Burger’s resignation, and why the executive was not supporting Burger against the backlash, spokesperson Retha van Reenen said, “let me put it into perspective. A lot of the members decided not to sign an affidavit sent out last year that they would not support or promote captive lion hunting or captive lion breeding activities.”
As a body representing and promoting the interests of professional hunters, Phasa has faced an inordinate amount of challenges. None more so than the fallout after the 2015 announcement that it had adopted a resolution at its annual general meeting to distance itself from the captive lion breeding and captive lion hunting industries.
In November 2016, a group of 13 Phasa members challenged the resolution and its constitutionality and took Phasa to the High Court in Pretoria where it argued Phasa had acted illegally when it took steps to suspend their memberships. In its affidavit opposing their application, Phasa said some of the applicants were members of another hunting organisation, known as the South African Predators Association‚ which was in favour of captive-bred lion hunting.
Phasa said after receiving responses from the 13 members‚ it decided to lift the suspension of three members who had explained that they were not involved in the breeding and hunting of captive lions.
At the time, Burger said his organisation stood by its resolution to distance itself from captive-bred lion hunting and would defend its resolution in court. Phasa said it gave the applicants seven days within which to provide reasons why their membership should not be terminated.
According to the judgment that was eventually handed down, Phasa lost the case.
In a statement, Burger said, “It has been a privilege to serve the association, but the time has come for others to now carry the torch”. Van Coller said Phasa would continue with minimum disruption as the association continued to serve the members of the professional hunting fraternity of South Africa.
Andrew Venter, CEO of Wildlands Trust and executive producer of the documentary film Blood Lions, told News 24, “It would be tragic for the South African hunting and tourism industries if Phasa were to backtrack on its commitment to stop the hunting of captive-bred lions in South Africa.
“Stan Burger has led the charge to clean up the hunting industry in this regard, something I can attest to that there is little doubt.”
He said Phasa had, for the past 18 months, been under significant pressure from the “unethical hunting fraternity in South Africa”.
“It’s unfortunate that it appears that this faction may be prevailing. The fallout from the local and global outrage will further damage the industry and South Africa’s conservation reputation,” Venter said.
Without detracting from the wonderful and critical role that our national parks play in conservation, I would like to focus on the private sector’s positive achievements in this regard.
Around the middle of the 20th century, wildlife had no economic value in South Africa. At best, wildlife was simply good sport and there are numerous accounts of the eradication of huge numbers of free-roaming wildlife throughout southern Africa. Plains game species were seen to compete with livestock, so animals like bontebok, blesbok, roan and sable antelope and tsessebe were also slaughtered to the point that their populations numbered less than 500 individuals. Wildlife was seen as vermin.
In the late 1800s, the government established a few statutory game reserves on land unsuitable for agriculture, and some 30 years later, we had national parks, many of which still exist today and form the bulk of the country’s primary tourism destinations. Even these reserves only had limited wildlife populations, and through exemplary conservation management strategies based on trial-and-error methods, these populations were protected and increased.
Wildlife also started gaining economic value for private reserve owners and commercial wildlife ranching was recognised and supported by the state. These landowners focus on increasing natural habitats for wildlife and often converting agricultural land into suitable game areas. Their practices are sustainable and have a significant green footprint in terms of habitat, soil restoration and biodiversity support.
Contribution of game ranching. Dr Pamela Oberem, The New Game Rancher, Briza Publications
Social aspects
♦ Wildlife ranches generally employ more than three times the staff that livestock farms employ
♦ Over 140 000 people have jobs (about 65 000 of which are permanent positions) in the private wildlife industry
♦ There are about 10 000 private game reserves in South Africa
Conservation
♦ There are over 20 million hectares of land in the conservation management industry – substantially more conservation land than all our national parks combined
♦ Private wildlife ranches generally focus on a select few of the game species on their land for commercial use, but they provide habitat for countless species of mammals, birds, fish, insects and plants that are not commercially exploited at all. With habitat destruction being one of the primary threats to wildlife biodiversity, these private reserves often represent vitally important corridors for wildlife between designated protected areas that are increasingly surrounded by swathes of land transformed by human activity.
♦ According to statistics from Wildlife Ranching SA, on average, a single wildlife ranch of about 2 700ha that focuses on eco-tourism and biodiversity support is home to 45 mammal species, 266 bird species, 43 reptile species, 29 grass species and over 100 other tree and plant species.
♦ Several species (bontebok, blesbok, roan and sable antelope, tsessebe, black wildebeest, leopard tortoise) have been rescued from the brink of extinction thanks to the creation of these reserves and now have healthy and growing populations in the country. There were only a few hundred disease-free buffalo in the country in the late 1900s, and buffalo also faced threats of eradication due to diseases to which they were susceptible. Thanks to the collaboration of national and private reserves and various breeding projects, there are now more than 36,000 disease-free buffalo in the country, which is yet another success story for conservation in SA.
Economics
♦ At present, the wildlife ranching industry, practising both consumptive and non-consumptive uses of wildlife, contributes about R20 billion to South Africa’s balance sheet
♦ Approximately 20 000 tons of game meat is produced annually from this sector (excluding meat from biltong hunts), thereby contributing to food security
♦ About 65 000 people are permanently employed by this sector, with many more temporary jobs being provided throughout seasons or events, e.g. translocations/game capture operations, breeding projects, etc. These temporary positions push the total employment figure up to over 140,000 people who are supported by this industry, with a large proportion of employees made up of local community members.
We are proud to present the Finalists of our Photographer of the Year Competition. The standard of entries this year was exceptionally high, to the extent that our list of finalists is larger than we had initially planned for. After days of judging and intense debate, we could not reduce our list to fewer than 26 finalists. The finalists are listed in no specific order.
The 2017 Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year Competition is brought to you by Land Rover and Canon.
The grand title winner of the year’s competition will walk away with a Big Cat Photo Safari for two, provided by At Close Quarters with flights by Airlink, as well as a Canon EOS 700D with a double lens kit. Runner up prizes include a two-night safari for two at Hideaways’ Elephant’s Eye while each category finalist will enjoy a case of wine provided by Rhino Tears. The most popular entries on Facebook and Instagram will enjoy prizes sponsored by iSimangaliso and Thule.
A spokesman for the Namibian Ministry of Environment and Tourism (MET) has confirmed that all CITES requirements have been met for the issue of export permits and that the United Arab Emirates CITES Scientific Authority has issued the necessary permits for the importation of the elephants.
Eden Game Farm is a private game farm and registered game dealer in the Grootfontein district, near Etosha National Park. The farm is owned by a Swedish national.
The sale of baby elephants from Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park to China in 2015 attracted heavy criticism from wildlife experts and activists alike, after some died and others showed signs of malnutrition and neglect.
The MET spokesman said he was not concerned about the same happening in this instance, as Eden Game Farm had satisfied all the relevant compliance procedures. He said that the babies would be kept in isolation after capture, and inspected prior to exportation to make sure they are in good condition. He also explained that baby elephants need to be tamed after being separated from their parents, to reduce the stress.
MET previously sanctioned the export of 150 wild-caught animals (including elephants, rhinos, lions and leopards) to a zoo in Cuba, a project dubbed ‘Noah’s Ark II’, which proceeded despite significant opposition from many quarters.
Our 2017 Photographer of the Year Competition, brought to you by Land Rover and Canon is now closed for entries. Here are the Semi-finalists that have been put together in TWO galleries this week. Click here to see PART I of the gallery.
The grand title winner of the year’s competition will walk away with a Big Cat Photo Safari for two, provided by At Close Quarters with flights by Airlink, as well as a Canon EOS 700D with a double lens kit. Runner up prizes include a two-night safari for two at Hideaways’ Elephant’s Eye while each category finalist will enjoy a case of wine provided by Rhino Tears. The most popular entries on Facebook and Instagram will enjoy prizes sponsored by iSimangaliso and Thule.
The 2017 Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year Competition, brought to you by Land Rover and Canon is now closed for entries. Here are the Semi-finalists that have been put together in TWO galleries this week. Click here to see PART II of the gallery.
The grand title winner of the year’s competition will walk away with a Big Cat Photo Safari for two, provided by At Close Quarters with flights by Airlink, as well as a Canon EOS 700D with a double lens kit. Runner up prizes include a two-night safari for two at Hideaways’ Elephant’s Eye while each category finalist will enjoy a case of wine provided by Rhino Tears. The most popular entries on Facebook and Instagram will enjoy prizes sponsored by iSimangaliso and Thule.
Located within the Réunion National Park (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), you will find Piton de la Fournaise, one of the world’s most active volcanoes. Also known as ‘The Peak of the Furnace’, the volcano has had more than 150 recorded eruptions since the 17th century, with the most recent eruption beginning on 31 January 2017.
Standing at 2,631 metres in height and about 530,000 years old, this volcano is one of Réunion Island’s most popular tourist attractions. It forms part of the island’s volcanic ‘hotspot’ – which basically means that the island forms part of a gigantic volcano that rises out of the 4,000 metre-deep ocean floor and is believed to have been active for over 66 million years.
About 400,000 people visit this climbable, active volcano every year. Despite its sulphurous and active reputation, it is pretty accessible to all, whatever your age or fitness level. Clearly though, the fitter and more sure-footed you are, the more of an up-close and personal experience you are going to be get.
You can drive to the rim of the external crater and simply gaze at the peak in the distance. Alternatively, if you have the time, you can climb it, starting from the waves lapping at its base in the Indian Ocean, and ultimately reaching the summit which is often in the clouds.
If you travel by car you will eventually arrive at the Plaine des Sables, which roughly translates to ‘plain sands’, an apt description for the wasteland of highly acidic volcanic sand in which nothing grows. For our own adventure, we had originally opted to drive to have a quick look from the viewing point, but as soon as I saw Piton de la Fournaise, I knew I had to climb it!
It was Easter weekend and there were tourists of all ages, shapes, sizes and nationalities who had come to marvel at the volcano at the viewing point. We left many of these tourists behind as only the more intrepid ventured down the five hundred or so steps of the outer crater, Enclos Foucque, to the caldera floor and on to the tiny crater Formica Leo – named for the similarity of its shape to the pitfalls built by antlions – formed during an 18th-century eruption.
All around us the seemingly endless lava plateau surrounded the central crater, Dolomieu, which loomed 350m above the caldera floor. Square kilometres of black and oxidized lava encompassed us, forming amazing shapes and giving the landscape an extraterrestrial, frozen-in-time look.
Once we reached the external crater floor we were faced with two options:
To the right was the shortest and steepest route to the top, which would take us directly to the summit, Crater Bory. To the left was the less strenuous, but longer and far more popular, route to the top. My guide, Nico, informed me that the left route could take about five hours.
“Longer if you talk a lot!” he added. Since as I do talk – a LOT – we opted for the shorter, but steeper, approach on the right. The path had mostly been obliterated by eruptions the previous year, so we were charting a new route.
Scrambling over the razor-sharp and brittle lava, we made it to the top pretty quickly and had the luxury of the place to ourselves. Sitting on the lip of the crater with our feet almost dangling over the abyss, we could just make out the people who had used the slower route to the left a kilometre away on the other side of the 300m-deep crater.
Sheer cliffs fell away to the still smouldering crater below where steam rose through vents in the earth, rising up to meet the clouds that tumbled down over the rim.
We sat for an hour, silently marvelling at the dramatic, barren landscape, thinking of the raw power of the volcano that had created this entire island. I had seen photos of ‘The Volcano’ (le Volcon as referred to by the locals), but nothing had prepared me for the reality of this other-worldly experience.
Finally, we hiked our way back over frozen waves of solidified lava and crushed volcanic rocks. I realised how apt the name ‘furnace’ was for this volcano that had produced the landscape of melted rocks and glass that surrounded us in every direction.
My trip to Reunion was arranged by The Reunion Tourism Board whose website has a great deal of helpful information about the many aspects of this amazing destination and whose photos I was authorized to use. Nicolas Cyprien was my guide while trekking Piton de la Fournaise.
This extensive papyrus swamp is characterised by small channels of marsh-filled water and lagoons and is located about 57km from Kampala city and an hour’s drive from Entebbe city. Lying on the edge of Lake Victoria, Mabamba Swamp is a massive 16,500 hectares and is part of the list of Wetlands of International Importance as chosen by the Ramsar Convention.
Search for this prehistoric bird in a boat is quite an experience! You will be polled around in a massive wooden fishing boat by an experienced guide who knows where to find shoebills in this vast swamp. To prepare yourself for the birding encounter of your life, read this interesting article about shoebills
According to Ismail, a local guide, shoebills like Mabamba because there are plenty of fish – thanks to the local fishermen who are passionate about protecting this precious wetland area.
Shoebill eating a lungfish
Meet the local fishermen
There was a time when the local community used to be enemies of shoebills as they competed for the same fish resource, but today many local people have been trained as tour guides who now strive to preserve both the birds and the swamp.
They are happy to tell you how Mabamba Swamp is named after a lungfish locally known as ‘emamba‘. According to Hanington, a guide who has lived on the marsh for 20 years, the lungfish can survive out of the water for up to three days, if it is watered every now and again.
Local fisherman
Rediscover the beauty of the other birds
While on the boat and searching for shoebills, be sure to look out for other species such as blue swallow, pallid harrier, papyrus gonolek, swamp flycatcher, pigmy goose, lesser jacana, white-winged warbler, Viellot’s weaver, grosbeak weaver, black-headed weaver, northern brown-throated weaver, Clarke’s weaver, palm-nut vulture and Carruther’s cisticola.
Across the bay are little islands where the local people grow delicious organic sweet pineapples, nutritious avocados and juicy tomatoes.
Pineapples loaded at the Mabamba Bay
Enjoy the Lake Victoria sunset
Lake Victoria is Africa’s largest freshwater lake and the second-largest freshwater lake in the world, after Lake Superior in the United States/Canada.
There are other areas where you can spot the shoebill, such as at Delta point in Murchison Falls National Park, Lake Mburo National Park, Ziwa Rhino sanctuary and Semliki Game Reserve.
There are plans afoot to move 80 rhinos from Africa to Australia as an ‘insurance policy’ and for ‘safekeeping’ in grass paddocks amongst the gum trees. Is this a valid conservation project for wild African rhinos or misdirection of energy and resources by a well-meaning Western society?
A spokesperson from The Australian Rhino Project (TARP) was refreshingly forthcoming with replies to most of my enquiries, and I have no doubt at all about the good intentions of those who have donated time and money to this cause. Good intentions aside, it’s worth assessing whether this effort is likely to impact positively on wild rhinos in Africa.
At the outset, I have to admit that I am wary of the Australian government’s conservation commitment – bearing in mind that without buy-in from the government this project is dead in the water (both now and in the future, if future generations of these rhinos are ever required back in Africa). In fact, the Australian authorities have already indicated that they will not permit the import of African rhinos without them being quarantined in a 3rd country. Australia has the ‘most animal extinctions in the world’, thanks to that government’s primary rural focus on mining and large scale farming, at the expense of ecosystems and species. I believe that actions speak louder than words, and ‘saving’ African rhinos while your own precious species and ecosystems go down the plughole, is an interesting aspect of this debate.
And, as an African, I cringe at how the Western world sometimes frames the African conservation debate. Without wishing to turn this post into a political one, there is sometimes a strong flavour of neo-colonialism and the ongoing ‘Disneyfication’ of Africa in some of these campaigns and discussions. I found this video on the TARP project particularly nauseating (just imagine you are Grandpa rhino?):
My questions for TARP, and their replies (lightly edited for efficiency):
1. Dehorning: Will you consider the dehorning of the rhinos if it is in the best interest of security, and if so, would you sell these horns if trade were to be legalised?
TARP: Rhinos are generally dehorned for transportation to ensure that they do not injure themselves during the relocation process. The practice of dehorning does not generally occur in Australia, however, all facilities currently holding rhino in Australia are reviewing their security measures post recent poaching incidents globally. Under no circumstances have we considered or would we consider selling rhino horn. The Australian Rhino Project position, and the position of all individuals associated with the project, is that legalisation of rhino horn trade is not the answer to reducing poaching.
2. Security: Your website states that “A feasibility study led by a highly experienced curator from the Taronga Conservation Society supported by undergraduates from the University of Sydney Business School in conjunction with global rhino experts identified no such risks.”
To clarify, could you confirm that you feel that there is no threat of poaching of rhinos in Australia?
TARP: We take the protection of rhinos extremely seriously and we are committed to building a safe haven for threatened rhinos in Australia with our conservation partner organisations. Australia’s legislation in regards to animal cruelty has harsh penalties for any type of incident and the Australian courts will prosecute and convict for such crimes, including jail time and financial penalties. In addition, we believe Australia’s tight firearm legislation and strict border control will reduce the likelihood of a similar incident occurring in Australia.
3. Which rhinos? Your website states that “The first rhinos have been identified and the process for gaining approvals is well progressed.”
Where do/will these rhinos come from and will they be wild-caught from national or private reserves, or sourced from intensive rhino breeding farms?
TARP: To ensure the genetic diversity of the breeding population is maintained, rhinos will be sourced based on demographics, genetics and known provenance from South Africa. We will not be sourcing rhino from intensive rhino breeding farms such as John Hume.
At this stage, we cannot advise where all of the rhinos will be coming from and these discussions are ongoing. We have been approached by many individuals who are keen to move rhinos from their private game reserves due to the cost of security and their personal safety concerns for both themselves and their rhinos.
4. The rhino enclosures: Your Feb ‘17 newsletter states that “The team at Monarto has been working on the 500 hectare open plain area preparing for the arrival for the rhinos for several years. The property has been regenerated and planted with vegetation suitable for the rhino population and significant effort has been put into creating an environment that emulates the wild in Africa. The … fencing is well progressed and driving along the boundary fences definitely gives you the impression that you are in Africa.”
Could you detail the vegetation species you have planted?
TARP: The preparation of the open plain area has been conducted over the past 3 years and has been a significant process, including revegetation via 60,000 tube stock planted for ‘buffering’ the 560ha project site together with 75kms of direct seeding. Perennial Veldt Grass has been seeded in conjunction with tall wheatgrass. Extensive clean-up of existing Mallee vegetation areas on site.
5. Donations: Your website states that “Your donation goes to the costs associated with relocating and managing the rhinos. ”
The 2015 and 2016 financials provided on your website reflect that you have raised almost $1,5m (AUD) and spent almost $900,000 of that during that period. Could you provide more details on what the $900,000 was spent on, and how this reconciles to the above quote that money will only be spent on relocating and managing the rhinos? Also, your website suggests that you will need $8m (AUD) in total, and yet so far you have spent most of the $1,5m raised and have no rhinos. Will you be revising your estimated required amount?
TARP: Costs incurred during the stated financial period are for the following items: Fundraising events, Wild Africa construction costs, part-time project managers, merchandise purchases for our retail store, insurances and administrative fees such as credit card and payment gateways.
All of the directors on the board operate pro-bono and we also have a pro-bono treasurer, company secretary and volunteer team. The Australian Rhino Project is registered with the Australian Charity and Not for Profits Commission, the Australian Securities and Investment Commission and the Australian Taxation Office. We submit audited accounts each year to the ACNC.
6. Expertise: The gentleman featured in the video (referred to in my introduction) claims that you have experts who ‘know everything about the way we live’ (he was speaking in the first person as a rhino!). Could you provide the names and relevant track records of those experts?
TARP: Rhino populations have existed within Australia for well over 30 years with a more concerted effort regarding species conservation happening from 1990 onwards. These rhino populations are managed under species management plans that have teams of qualified and trained conservation and species experts who have studied and worked directly with rhino populations for decades.
Many individuals who work alongside these rhino populations have been, in some cases, working with rhinos for between 20 and 30 years. There have been successful births of southern black, southern white, and greater one-horned rhinos in Australia. The expertise that has been developed in rhino conservation is now also contributing to assisting with conservation efforts in other locations including black rhino projects in Zimbabwe, operations of rhino orphanages in Africa and sharing of knowledge conservation NGO’s such as the International Rhino Foundation. We do not feel it necessary or appropriate to provide you individual names of these people and details of their employment.
In conclusion, I doubt that the export of 80 rhinos from South Africa to Australia will materially affect local populations. I also have no doubt that these rhinos will be well looked after in their strange new home. But will this project help wild African rhino populations at some time in the future? I seriously doubt it. Could the substantial cash required to fund this project into the future be better spent in Africa, keeping wild rhinos safe? Hell yes.
The 2017 Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year Competition, brought to you by Land Rover and Canon is now closed for entries. Here is the Top 101 selection, in FOUR galleries. Click here to see PART II of the gallery.
The grand title winner of the year’s competition will walk away with a Big Cat Photo Safari for two, provided by At Close Quarters with flights by Airlink, as well as a Canon EOS 700D with a double lens kit. Runner up prizes include a two-night safari for two at Hideaways’ Elephant’s Eye while each category finalist will enjoy a case of wine provided by Rhino Tears. The most popular entries on Facebook and Instagram will enjoy prizes sponsored by iSimangaliso and Thule.
The 2017 Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year Competition, brought to you by Land Rover and Canon is now closed for entries. Here is the Top 101 selection, in FOUR galleries. Click here to see PART III of the gallery.
The grand title winner of the year’s competition will walk away with a Big Cat Photo Safari for two, provided by At Close Quarters with flights by Airlink, as well as a Canon EOS 700D with a double lens kit. Runner up prizes include a two-night safari for two at Hideaways’ Elephant’s Eye while each category finalist will enjoy a case of wine provided by Rhino Tears. The most popular entries on Facebook and Instagram will enjoy prizes sponsored by iSimangaliso and Thule.
The 2017 Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year Competition, brought to you by Land Rover and Canon is now closed for entries. Here is the Top 101 selection, in FOUR galleries. Click here to see PART IV of the gallery.
The grand title winner of the year’s competition will walk away with a Big Cat Photo Safari for two, provided by At Close Quarters with flights by Airlink, as well as a Canon EOS 700D with a double lens kit. Runner up prizes include a two-night safari for two at Hideaways’ Elephant’s Eye while each category finalist will enjoy a case of wine provided by Rhino Tears. The most popular entries on Facebook and Instagram will enjoy prizes sponsored by iSimangaliso and Thule.
The 2017 Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year Competition, brought to you by Land Rover and Canon is now closed for entries. Here is the Top 101 selection, in FOUR galleries. Click here to see PART III of the gallery.
The grand title winner of the year’s competition will walk away with a Big Cat Photo Safari for two, provided by At Close Quarters with flights by Airlink, as well as a Canon EOS 700D with a double lens kit. Runner up prizes include a two-night safari for two at Hideaways’ Elephant’s Eye while each category finalist will enjoy a case of wine provided by Rhino Tears. The most popular entries on Facebook and Instagram will enjoy prizes sponsored by iSimangaliso and Thule.
I am not a hunter. Nor have I ever been. I am a vegetarian (since the age of about 11), I am part of the environmental NGO sector and I have interests in the tourism industry in Namibia. Written by Dr Chris Brown, Namibian Chamber of Environment
So, it might surprise you that I am a strong supporter of the hunting industry in Namibia, and indeed, throughout Africa. Having said that, I should qualify my support. I am a strong supporter of legal, ethical hunting of indigenous wildlife within sustainably managed populations, in large open landscapes.
The reason is simple: Well-managed hunting is extremely good for conservation. In many areas, it is essential for conservation.
There is much confusion and misconception about the role of hunting in conservation, particularly in the urban industrialised world and thus by most Western tourists that visit Namibia. Urban industrialised societies – and I include many biologists and recognised conservation organisations in this grouping – see hunting as undermining conservation or the anathema of conservation. And they see protecting wildlife and removing all incentives for its consumptive use as promoting and achieving good conservation. Nothing could be further from the truth.
The animal rights movement has taken over much of the hunting and sustainable utilisation debate within conservation. I sympathise with people who stand up for animal rights – we all should. None of us wants to see animals suffering or being treated badly by members of our species. However, the problem arises when animal rights agendas are passed off as conservation agendas. Animal rights agendas are not conservation agendas.
Conservation works at the population, species and ecosystem levels. Animal rights work at the individual level. What might be good for an individual or a collection of individuals might not be good for the long-term survival of populations, species and biodiversity.
Take a simple domestic example. When the farm carthorse was replaced by the tractor, carthorses no longer had to work long hours in the fields. But they also no longer had value to farmers. Once common, they are now extremely rare. Indeed, carthorse associations have been established to keep these breeds from dying out. The truth is, if animals do not have a value, or if that value is not competitive with other options, then those animals will not have a place, except in a few small isolated islands of protection. And island protection in a sea of other land uses is a disaster for long-term conservation.
Animal rights are important. However, wildlife must be placed within a sound conservation and animal welfare setting, where conservation decisions on behalf of populations, species, and ecosystems take priority over the rights of individual animals, but with due consideration of their welfare. Ethical and humane practices are integral to good conservation management and science.
The wildlife situation in Namibia provides a very good example of this. When the first western explorers, hunters and traders entered what is now Namibia in the late 1700s, crossing the Orange/Gariep River from the Cape, the national wildlife population was probably 8-10 million animals.
Over the following centuries wildlife was decimated and numbers collapsed, first by uncontrolled and wasteful hunting by traders and explorers, then by local people who had acquired guns and horses from the traders, then by early farmers, veterinary policies and fencing, and finally by modern-day farmers on both freehold and communal land who saw wildlife as having little value and competing with their domestic stock for scarce grazing. Traditional wildlife management under customary laws administered by chiefs had broken down under successive colonial regimes. By the 1960s wildlife numbers were at an all-time low in Namibia, with perhaps fewer than half a million animals surviving (Figure 1).
Figure 1: Wildlife numbers in Namibia, from about 1770 to 2015
At that time wildlife was “owned” by the state. Landowners and custodians were expected to support the wildlife on their land, but they had no rights to use the wildlife and to derive any benefits from wildlife. In response to declining numbers and growing dissatisfaction from farmers, a new approach to wildlife management was introduced.
In the 1960s and 1990s, conditional rights over the consumptive and non-consumptive use of wildlife were devolved to freehold and communal farmers respectively, the latter under Namibia’s well-known conservancy programme. The laws give the same rights to farmers in both land tenure systems. This policy change led to a total change in attitude towards wildlife by landowners and custodians. Wildlife suddenly had value. It could be used to support a multi-faceted business model, including trophy hunting, meat production, live sale of surplus animals and tourism. It could be part of a conventional livestock farming operation, or be a dedicated business on its own. As the sector developed, so farmers discovered that they could do better from their wildlife than from domestic stock. Both small – and large – stock numbers declined on freehold farmland while wildlife numbers increased.
Today there is more wildlife in Namibia than at any time in the past 150 years, with the latest estimates putting the national wildlife herd at just over 3 million animals. And the reason is simple – wildlife is an economically more attractive, competitive form of land use than conventional farming in our arid, semi-arid and dry sub-humid landscapes. Markets are driving more and more farmers towards the management of wildlife.
This is good for conservation, not just from the perspective of wildlife, but also from the broader perspective of collateral habitat protection and biodiversity conservation. The greater the benefits that landowners and custodians derive from wildlife, the more secure it is as a land-use form and the more land there is under conservation management. Therefore, all the component uses of wildlife, including and especially trophy hunting, must be available to wildlife businesses. These uses include the full range of tourism options, live sale of surplus wildlife, and the various forms of consumptive use – trophy and venison hunting and wildlife harvesting for meat sale, value addition and own use.
It is this combination of uses that makes wildlife outcompete conventional farming. And it is the “service” component of tourism and hunting that elevate wildlife values above that of primary production and the simple financial value of protein. As the impacts of climate change become ever more severe, so will primary production decline in value, but not so for the “service” values derived from arid-adapted wildlife. And why especially trophy hunting? Because there are large areas of Namibia comprising remote, flat terrain with monotonous vegetation that are unsuited to tourism, but very important for conservation.
Figure 2: Contiguous land under wildlife management, including state protected areas, private nature reserves, communal and freehold conservancies and communal forests (Source: State of Conservancy Report 2015, NACSO)
There are some people in the tourism sector in Namibia and in our neighbouring countries who oppose trophy hunting because it is perceived to conflict with tourism and is thus not good for conservation. Some suggest that the land and its wildlife should be used for eco-tourism and not hunting. In most areas, eco-tourism cannot substitute for hunting. The loss of hunting revenue cannot be made up by eco-tourism revenue.
Indeed, we need to optimise all streams of wildlife-derived revenue to make land under wildlife as competitive as possible.If Namibia had adopted an animal-rights based, protectionist, anti-sustainable use approach to wildlife management, we would probably today have fewer than 250,000 head of wildlife (just 8% of our present wildlife herd) in a few isolated large parks and a few small private nature reserves. We would have lost the connectivity between land under wildlife, and we would have lost the collateral conservation benefits to broader biodiversity, natural habitats and ecosystem services.
Today, Namibia has well over 50% of its land under some form of formally recognised wildlife management (but probably over 70% if informal wildlife management is considered), including one of the largest contiguous areas of land under conservation in the world – its entire coast, linking to Etosha National Park and to conservation areas in both South Africa (Richtersveld) and Angola (Iona National Park) – over 25 million ha (Figure 2).
Some tourism operators and tour guides criticise the hunting sector to their guests. By doing so, they undermine an important part of conservation, an important contributor to making land under wildlife competitive, and, in the final analysis, they undermine the viability of conservation as a land-use form. The greatest threat to wildlife conservation in Namibia and globally is land transformation. Once land is transformed, often for agricultural purposes, it has lost its natural habitats and most of its biodiversity and can no longer support wildlife. Hunters and tourism operators should and must be on the same side – to make land under wildlife more productive than other forms of land use. They are natural allies. They need to work together to ensure that land under wildlife derives the greatest possible returns through many income-earning activities. And where it is necessary for both hunting and tourism to take place on the same piece of land, they need to plan, collaborate and communicate so that all aspects of wildlife management and utilisation – both consumptive and non-consumptive – can take place without one impacting negatively on the other.
Conflicts between hunting and tourism are simply failures of management and communication, nothing more profound than that. But the onus should be on the hunting outfitters to ensure that there are ongoing, good communications. The onus is also on hunting outfitters, professional hunters, and the hunting sector to always maintain the highest ethical and professional standards and to be mindful of the sensitivities of many people to the issue of hunting.
It is also the vital task and duty of tourism operators and guides to educate visitors from urban industrialised countries about conservation in this part of the world. Visitors need to understand what drives conservation, the role of incentives and markets, and what sustainable wildlife management means. The tourism sector should not skirt around an uncomfortable discussion on hunting, but face it head-on and explain its importance to conservation. This is what good education is all about. Tourists come to Namibia to be enlightened, to be exposed to new ideas and to better understand the issues in this part of the world. They come here to take back new and interesting stories. What better story than Namibia’s conservation successes? However, visitors need to understand it properly – its incentives, market alignment, strong links to the local and national economy, and role in addressing rural poverty. It is the task of the tourism industry to help visitors understand why Namibia has one of the most successful conservation track records of any country in the world.
If we look at the conservation trajectory of a country such as the United Kingdom (an urban industrialised example) through its agrarian and industrial development, the indigenous wildlife at that time had no value. Thus, it lost the elk, wild boar, bear, wolf, lynx, beaver and sea eagle – essentially its most charismatic and important species. While small-scale attempts to re-introduce a few less threatening species are underway, it is unlikely to reintroduce the bear and wolf into the wild as free-ranging populations. And yet that country and others like it, with poor historic conservation track records, are keen to influence how Namibia should manage its wildlife. Its own farmers are not prepared to live with wolves. Still, many of their politicians and conservation agencies, both public and non-governmental, expect Namibian farmers to live with elephant, hippo, buffalo, lion, leopard, hyaena, crocodile and many other wildlife species that are far more problematic from a human-wildlife conflict perspective than a wolf. And they try to remove the very tools available to conservation to keep these animals on the land – the tools of economics, markets and sustainable use, to create value for these animals within a well-regulated, sustainably management wildlife landscape.
I believe that the problem is essentially one of ignorance. People think they are doing what is best for conservation, but they simply do not understand the economic drivers for wildlife and biodiversity conservation in biodiversity-rich and rainfall-poor developing countries. And many African countries are sadly falling into the same trap. Kenya, for example, with its Eurocentric protectionist conservation approaches, has less wildlife today than at any time in its history. We need to share the message. And the message is, I believe, most powerfully explained using the simple graphic in Figure 3 below.
Figure 3: Economic returns to conventional farming (yellow line) and to wildlife management (green line) in areas of different land productivity, with rainfall being a good proxy for productivity
A second insight from the graphic above is that the greater the value earned from wildlife, not only is the gap widened on the left side of the graph over conventional farming, but the cross-over point is pushed further to the right. This means that higher rainfall areas become competitive under wildlife management, opening more of Africa to this form of land use.The yellow line represents the return to land use under conventional farming, e.g. domestic stock and crops, across a rainfall gradient – rainfall being a proxy for land productivity. The green line shows the returns to land under wildlife. On the left side of the graph, in areas of rainfall below about 800 mm per year, returns from “indigenous production systems” – i.e. wildlife, are greater than the returns from “exotic production systems” – i.e. farming.
However, this only applies if the rights to use wildlife are devolved to landowners and custodians. Markets then create a win-win situation for optimal returns from land and for wildlife conservation in these more arid areas. If utilisation rights are not devolved, then wildlife has little value to the landowner and custodian, and people will use the land for other activities. On the right side of the graph, above about 800 mm, the lines cross over and here conventional farming outperforms wildlife management. If landowners and custodians are given rights over the wildlife and other indigenous species on their land, they will get rid of these species and transform the land for farming in response to market forces. Most of the western, industrialised world falls on the right side of the graph.
Conservation agencies and organisations from countries on the right side of the graph, and areas where rights over wildlife are not devolved to landowners, are so conditioned to resist and fight against market forces having negative conservation impacts in their countries, that they automatically carry the fight across to those countries falling into the left side of the graph and which have devolved wildlife rights, not realising that the lines have switched over and that markets here are working for conservation. This is the important message that we must get across to policymakers, conservation organisations and the broader public in the urbanised and industrialised countries. And in some other parts of Africa. People need to understand the conservation drivers, incentives and markets, as well as the role of sustainable use within good conservation policy and practice. Well-intentioned but poorly informed efforts to influence conservation in this region seriously undermine good conservation policies and practices.
Namibia’s record of environmental accomplishment speaks for itself. Through the implementation of appropriate policies, it has created incentives for wildlife conservation, unmatched anywhere in the world. But wildlife must have value otherwise landowners and custodians will move to other forms of land use. And it must have the greatest possible value to be as secure a land use as possible, over the largest possible landscape. And that is why I strongly support well-managed and ethical hunting. It is good, and in some cases essential, for the conservation of wildlife, of habitats and of biological diversity. And that is why hunting and tourism must work together, in mutually supportive ways, to optimise returns from wildlife for the land. Well managed and ethical hunting should in fact be called “conservation hunting”. And conservation hunting is essentially an integral part of tourism.
Bibliography
Barnes JI 1998. Wildlife conservation and utilisation as complements to agriculture in southern African development. Research Discussion Paper No 27, Directorate of Environmental Affairs, Ministry of Environment and Tourism, Namibia. http://www.the-eis.com/data/RDPs/RDP27.pdf
Barnes JI 2001. Economic returns and allocation of resources in the wildlife sector of Botswana. South African Journal of Wildlife Research 31(3/4): 141-153.
Barnes JI & de Jager JLV 1995. Economic and financial incentives for wildlife use on private land in Namibia and the implications for policy. Research Discussion Paper No 8, Directorate of Environmental Affairs, Ministry of Environment and Tourism. http://www.the-eis.com/data/RDPs/RDP08.pdf
Di Minin E, Leader-Williams N & Bradshaw CJA 2016. Banning trophy hunting will exacerbate biodiversity loss. Trends in Ecology & Evolution 31(2): 99-102.
IUCN 2016. Informing decisions on trophy hunting. IUCN Briefing Paper April 2016, 19 pp.
Lindsey P 2011. Analysis of game meat production and wildlife-based land uses on freehold land in Namibia: Links with food security. A Traffic East/Southern Africa Report. 81 pp.
Lindsey PA, Havemann CP, Lines RM, Price AE, Retief TA, Rhebergen T, van der Waal C. & Romanach S 2013. Benefits of wildlife-based land uses on private lands in Namibia and limitations affecting their development. Fauna & Flora International, Oryx 47(1): 41–53.
Munthali SM 2007. Transfrontier conservation areas: Integrating biodiversity and poverty alleviation in Southern Africa. Natural Resources Forum 31: 51-60.
Naidoo R, Weaver LC, Diggle RW, Matongo G, Stuart-Hill G & Thouless C 2015. Complementary benefits of tourism and hunting to communal conservancies in Namibia. Conservation Biology. Published online October 13, 2015. http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/cobi.12643
Norton-Griffiths M 2010. The growing involvement of foreign NGOs in setting policy agendas and political decision-making in Africa. First published by Blackwell Publishing, Oxford Institute of Economic Affairs 2010. 5pp.
Ogutu JO, Piepho H-P, Said MY, Ojwang GO, Njino LW, Kifugo SC, et al. 2016. Extreme Wildlife Declines and Concurrent Increase in Livestock Numbers in Kenya: What Are the Causes? PLoS ONE 11(9): e0163249. doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0163249.
Stemmet E 2017. The ban on hunting in Botswana’s concession areas. African Outfitter Jan/Feb 2017: 38-42.
Wilson GR, Hayward MW & Wilson C (in press). Market-based incentives and private ownership of wildlife to remedy shortfalls in government funding for conservation. doi: 10.1111/conl.12313.
Seeing a cheetah hunt is rare, and photographing one is challenging, but can you sketch one? Here are my tips, with field sketches and photographs, from a hunt my husband and I witnessed in Linyanti, northern Botswana.
We found two brothers lazing on a termite mound surrounded by wonderful hanging vines. It was a perfect sketching opportunity, so I spent some time sketching them and then adding the trees, termite mound and vines. The watercolour was added later, purely from memory.
♦ Tip 1: “Look three times, think twice, sketch once.” (anonymous).
Look at animals as simple shapes, ignoring details. Start with the largest shapes first. Use feint pencil lines until you find the correct line. Always sketch the animals first. You can add the landscape features and vegetation afterwards because they won’t get up and move.
Knowing roughly where they spent the night, we headed out the next morning hoping that we would see them hunt. We found them lazing on another termite mound and although they frequently moved, I created this sketch (below), using simple shapes and very faint pencil lines.
Afterwards, I wondered why I had painted the background yellow/orange, but looking at my husband’s photos from the same day (see below), I realise my colours were close to the real thing – but in reverse. I find this often happens – I think I consciously choose colours, only to find the colours around me unconsciously influence me.
♦ Tip 2: Time spent in your chosen sketching location is never wasted.
When you are watching, listening or sitting in silence, you are inadvertently learning and taking in information about your subject and this will show in your sketches.
This photo below is one of my favourites. Look at the beautiful curves in the termite mound, the vines, and, of course, the spots of the cheetah. It is a simple yet stunning composition.
Beautiful though the morning was, the cheetahs were not content with posing for an artist or a photographer – they had food on their minds and started to head off. Although we moved every few seconds to keep up, I managed this quick sketch (below), showing the cheetahs’ long bodies and tiny heads.
♦ Tip 3: A pencil and paper are all you need. Limiting your materials allows you to concentrate more on your subject.
♦ Tip 4: Make sure you have enough paper, and don’t be afraid to start sketches you will never finish.
At one point, the cheetahs stopped for a couple of minutes, and that’s when I created the very small sketch (below). The light was coming from the left, so I had to remember not to paint over the white paper in the areas I wanted as highlights. I added some cadmium yellow to the cheetahs and some cerulean blue on top to show the shadow areas. When this was dry, I added the eyes, nose and just enough spots to indicate that these are cheetahs.
♦ Tip 5: Know when to stop.
This is one of the hardest things to learn – but is essential. I often stop when I think I’m not quite finished. Looking at the painting later, I inevitably discover that it needs nothing more.
Suddenly, the cheetahs went from motionless to trotting and flat-out in just a few seconds, becoming blurs among the bushes. Sketching was not an option.
As the dust settled, we saw that one cheetah had caught an impala ewe. His brother appeared, and the impala was quickly subdued.
Sketching predators on a kill may not be every artist’s idea of good subject matter, but killing is a fact of life in the bush, so I treat this as I would any other subject, taking advantage of the fact that the cheetahs are now stationary for a while!
The brothers ate from the rear of the carcass, so I had an interesting perspective for my sketch. I concentrated on the important details – the head of the impala, and her round belly leading to the faces of the cheetahs.
We left the cheetahs to their meal and returned to camp, where I spent a few hours adding the watercolour to some of the sketches you see above. Ah… the work of a field sketch artist is never done!
♦ Tip 6: Join me on an Africa Geographic Art Safari to learn more. I can’t promise we will see a cheetah hunt, but if we do, you’ll know how to sketch it!
Hidden in the bush, the thief is getting ready to take action. Walking slowly, he makes sure that nobody is around to notice him. He progresses silently toward the object of his desire. A few more steps and he’ll be close enough. A sudden sprint, he moves fast and goes racing toward the kitchen, raiding everything he can carry.
From kitchens to fields, baboons are the enemy number one of many local communities in East Africa. Stealing crops and sugar, they are notoriously challenging to repel and are known to be highly aggressive.
“Someone from the village has to stay near the fields, despite the summer temperatures and strong sun, and watch out for baboons to make sure they won’t destroy the crops,” explains Nancy Ingutia, community deputy manager for Ol Pejeta Conservancy, in the Laikipia district, located near Mount Kenya. “This baboon watch lasts from morning ’til late night until the crops are finally ready to harvest.”
Human-wildlife conflicts are not to be taken lightly in the region, but baboons are far from being the only culprits in these types of conflicts. Damages from elephants and carnivores involve massive loss of crops, the death or injury of cattle; and can even go as far as human injuries or death.
Mitigating the risks of living with wildlife is extremely important to avoid resentment from local communities towards conservation projects, which are there to protect the same species that are viewed by the communities as being destructive.
“For me, one of the crucial things about dealing with conflicts at any level, is that for human-wildlife conflicts, we need to agree where we want to have wildlife and where we don’t,” says Drew McVey, regional manager East Africa for WWF-UK. “And then we can work out how best to protect wildlife and how to protect people from it.”
In 2006, Ol Pejeta decided to outline the area allocated to wildlife protection by surrounding itself with an electric fence. This choice was made to both limit the occurrence of poaching and to decrease wildlife conflicts with the neighbouring communities.
“If you ask the communities now,” says Richard Vigne, Ol Pejeta’s CEO, “they will tell you that the greatest benefit that they have received since Ol Pejeta was formed as a conservancy, is the reduction in human-wildlife conflicts, particularly with elephants.”
Even though financial compensation schemes for farmers exist throughout East Africa, the process is often slow and only takes into account attacks carried out by the Big Five species. The lack of recognition for the economic loss of local farmers can easily trigger a feeling of resentment toward both wildlife and conservationists alike.
“If you can provide some immediate relief to individuals affected, then most people won’t carry out retaliation attacks,” says Drew. “There has been lots of work done in India on tigers showing that if we, the greater conservation community, value people’s livelihood and try to address their concerns, we’re more likely to get a positive response.”
In addition to retaliatory killings, the resentment building up in the communities can also make them turn a blind eye to poaching operations.
“Often in the past in East Africa, the communities were marginalised and didn’t engage in protected areas management,” explains Drew. “I think in that regard you get poachers becoming proverbial ‘Robin Hoods’. It doesn’t necessarily mean that the local people will conduct the poaching themselves, but it does mean that we won’t necessarily have people reporting poachers.”
According to a 2015 WWF report, more than 30,000 elephants – of which 8,500 are from East Africa – are still killed every year. Rhinos are also heavily targeted, as Richard explains: “There are always people trying to kill rhinos. Every single day of every single month there would be people plotting to kill rhinos on Ol Pejeta, and any of the other rhino sanctuaries in Laikipia.”
When a villager cannot see any benefit of having rhinos or elephants around, he might end up thinking, “just take these animals away. We get nothing from them, and they are just a cost,” explains Drew.
Strategies that work
That’s why new strategies are now being developed to protect crops from elephants. Repellent for elephants are diverse and can include methods as odd as chilli plants or even beehive fences. According to Save the Elephants, the latter solution has a success rate of 80%. This strategy also allows farmers to get extra income from the honey produced.
Improving the enclosures used to keep livestock, also called bomas, is another important first step forward. “It’s quite easy for predators to get in,” explains Shivani Bhalla, lion conservationist and founder of Ewaso Lions. “Reinforcing these bomas, making them stronger and talking to the community about actually strengthening them can make a big difference in stopping hyenas and other predators getting in, or discouraging livestock from straying away at night.”
In northern Tanzania, Laly Lichtenfeld, Executive Director of the African People and Wildlife Fund, worked with the local Maasai to improve their bomas to reduce attacks on cattle. One of the community members came up with the idea to use a local tree, called Commiphora, as fence posts. Hence, the Living Walls project was born.
“The Living Walls Project is a good example of how we work with Maasai pastoralists to develop conservation solutions that work from their point of view,” explains Laly. “The Living Walls project was a Maasai idea. They use the Commiphora in this part of Northern Tanzania around the outer part of their homesteads, but they never actually used them for the livestock corrals. Now it’s spreading like wildfire across northern Tanzania.”
To find out more about similar programmes, continue reading below the advert
But, even though these types of projects are essential, the best way to reach out to communities and make a change on the ground is to get them directly involved.
Shivani realised, after graduating, that lion conservation in non-protected areas was critical. So, she moved to Nothern Kenya and started Ewaso Lions in collaboration with local Samburu communities.
In 2010, Jeneria Lekilelei founded the Warrior Watch programme, facilitated by Ewaso Lions, the first programme in northern Kenya to actively involve warriors in a conservation project. The idea came from the realisation that by spending most of their life in the wild, Samburu warriors accumulate important information on lions. The tasks of the warriors involve reducing human-wildlife conflicts, but also raising awareness among their communities of the value of wildlife.
“It’s important to have your key ambassador and your key role model who can be out there communicating and working with the communities; someone who believes in conservation and lions himself,” says Shivani. “I think that’s the key because then it’s not so much me going out telling everyone ‘please don’t kill a lion’, it’s a warrior telling others not to kill lions.” And that can make all the difference!
Watch an APW video on their human-wildlife conflict prevention initiative below
The importance of education
By working on mitigating human-wildlife conflicts and by allowing local communities to develop an alternative livelihood like touristic activities, it’s possible to turn them into powerful allies. Educating local kids, for example, can be a powerful tool to change the perception that local people have of elephants.
To raise kids to become wildlife protectors, it’s essential first to make sure they get the chance to go to school. At Ol Pejeta, this aspect is taken very seriously, and a portion of the money gained by the conservancy is reinvested in improving the education of kids from the neighbouring communities.
In East Africa, schools also have an essential role to play in the development of the future generation of conservationists. Not only can they raise awareness and interest in environmental issues amongst their pupils, but they can also diffuse this knowledge across entire communities.
“Our most successful route to involve entire communities is via the schools,” explains Liz Bourne, founder of Nature’s Frontline. “In Uganda, we are seen as a positive link with the National Parks and the rangers, which has had a knock-on effect on the communities’ perception of the parks, the environment and conservation. The children take home this positivity, and it is passed on to the parents.”
In Kenya, primary education is free, but secondary education is not. The cost to access high schools is around $200 per trimester, which for some families is unaffordable. That’s why Ol Pejeta offers its 36 neighbouring schools a chance to earn full bursaries, explains Ian Mungai, education officer working for Ol Pejeta.
“Bursaries are given to kids who are very much in need, and who are good performers,” says Emily Lerosion, education officer for the Ol Pejeta Community Department. “We perform a background check with both the schools and the local communities’ representatives to select the kids.”
The crucial part is that by allowing children to study, these bursaries also enable a new model to emerge in the local communities: one where education becomes valued and where opportunities for children to get access to education appears.
To supplement its bursary program, Ol Pejeta also partners with a Canadian organisation called PA-MOJA to build a network of sister schools between the two countries. This cultural exchange offers an exclusive opportunity for local communities’ students to learn about different lifestyles and share theirs with the Canadian students.
“It’s an opportunity to engage with people outside the country both culturally and intellectually,” says Ian. “But Kenyan kids also get a chance to show the outside world that we are much more than the stereotypes people might have of our country.”
Even though these types of projects are essential for kids to grow and develop their perceptions of the world, a more direct way of raising the new generations of conservationists is to bring them to the field, or to bring conservation into the classroom. This can then have a broader impact on how entire local communities value conservation.
Partnerships between NGOs and schools can also take the form of environmental classes and clubs where kids are given the opportunity to reflect on particular issues and topics. WWF, for example, has launched this type of project on the Kenyan coast.
“It essentially teaches children about the environment, what it does for us, and how we can protect it,” says Mxolisi Sibanda, regional manager East Africa for WWF UK. “We’ve had some work with schools to get kids to run environmental clubs and teach the kids how to conserve the marine environment in that part of the world.”
But it’s also essential for kids to learn in the field and get out of the classroom. Visiting parks or conservancies is an opportunity for local kids to actually see the wild animals they might have only heard of. It also gives them a chance to get involved in conservation through activities such as lion tracking and camera trap placement.
However, while city kids might be quite positive about wildlife from the beginning, lots of children in northern Kenya are herders and grow up having a negative vision of wildlife. For them, an elephant is a massive beast threatening their family, while lions and leopards are cattle predators that need to be carefully monitored and chased away.
Changing this perception is a challenge, but not one to scare Shivani. She has started running ‘Lion Kids Camps’ for local herders’ kids at Ewaso Lions. The children stay in the camp for a few days to experience activities such as wildlife education, game drives and an art competition.
“We feel that with herder children, we can have an immediate impact when we’re trying to save wildlife because they are the ones who live with livestock and wildlife every single day,” says Shivani. “So when they’re herding their livestock and they come across wildlife they can immediately choose not to do something negative against that wildlife species, whatever it may be.”
One kid at a time, all these organisations and schools are slowly building up the new generation of guides, park wardens, biologists and wildlife protectors. All it takes is to change kids’ perceptions and watch them bring the message across to entire communities.
“It’s quite incredible just to see the change in these kids happening so quickly,” says Shivani. “We just really devote a lot of time and attention to these kids because they’ve never been in any educational learning environment ever, so giving them education and lessons, it’s all-new for them, and they really do soak it in, it’s quite incredible to see.”
About the author
Julia Migné is a multimedia journalist and wildlife photographer specialising in environmental issues. She has written for Africa Geographic and BBC Wildlife among others. An endless traveller, she swears that she would visit one country for each letter of the alphabet. She believes in constructive journalism and co-launched an international platform featuring positive and inspiring stories from across the world: www.the-inkline.com
Written by Rosie Fletcher, Nkonzi Camp, South Luangwa National Park
At a time when the world is facing unprecedented levels of wildlife trafficking, it can be difficult to know how to counter these threats. But across Africa, conservationists have begun developing innovative approaches to help turn the tide on wildlife poaching.
Launched in 2014, Delta unit currently has three highly trained former rescue dogs from the US, with two more arriving this month, and six dedicated dog handlers all drawn from the local community. While detection dogs elsewhere in the world are trained to find drugs or explosives, Delta unit’s dogs are specially trained to sniff out ivory, firearms and ammunition, wire snares, pangolin and leopard skins, and certain types of bushmeat.
The scheme has already proven to be an enormous success. The team undertakes at least two daytime and two overnight operations each week, in and around South Luangwa. In 2016 alone, Delta unit searched 1,778 vehicles, 619 bicycles and 50 houses, recovering nine illegal firearms, four pairs of ivory and four pangolins, along with numerous snares, bush meat, and an entire truckload of illegal and extremely rare mukula logs. Over 30 suspects were also apprehended.
We had our own encounter with the dog detection unit last week while driving out of the South Luangwa National Park Gate. Here we were stopped by the team, who proceeded with a full inspection of our vehicle. Luckily the dogs weren’t interested in the shortbread biscuits leftover from our tea break. It was fantastic to witness this proactive anti-poaching work firsthand and to see the enthusiasm of the dogs and their handlers.
It can feel as though conservation success stories are hard to find these days, but in South Luangwa’s battle of pooches vs. poachers, the dogs are coming out on top!
It is now legal in South Africa to trade domestically in rhino horn after this country’s Constitutional Court recently overturned an eight-year ban on domestic trade based on a technicality. Given the current reality in this country, trade in rhino horn will surely help drive rhinos to extinction in our national parks. Allow me to explain why I hold this view.
The author somewhere in Africa
The debates surrounding the trade in rhino horn often involve taking a side based on one’s beliefs rather than science or commercial realities. My view is driven solely by the hard realities in South Africa – my home country – which are:
South Africa suffers from endemic fraud and corruption at all layers of society – including government, parastatal and among national park employees;
rhino poaching to supply the illegal markets in the Far East is rampant – stripping our national parks of their rhino populations;
the ‘sustainable use’ industry significantly contributes to South Africa’s conservation efforts – there are greater areas under some form of private conservation than our formally protected areas. But this pressure group includes big cat petting and lion walking operators, big cat bone traders and canned hunting operators implicated in illegal, unethical or at least highly questionable activities. A very relevant example was when Vietnamese criminals, working with South African hunters, realised that they could import rhino “hunting trophies” into Vietnam with little or no oversight. These and other examples are well documented in news media and social media. And yet the industry does not self-regulate – it does not call out the wrong-doers and expel them. By not taking a stand, the venerable sustainable use industry – which, in my view, does far more good than harm – has tainted its reputation and is not trusted by the public to behave legally and ethically in matters such as these;
illegal goods are trafficked internationally at alarming rates via legal channels – lubricated by bribery & corruption, fake documentation and slack or non-existent policing.
Don’t confuse rhino horn farming with the conservation of wild rhinos in our national parks. The two have nothing to do with one another, despite what the intensive pro-trade PR campaign may have told you. Yes, private rhino populations are an important backup resource for wild rhino populations in our national parks. Yes, we must find additional ways to enable private rhino owners to benefit from their rhinos and recoup the increasing anti-poaching costs. But this model on the table purports to benefit our wild rhinos – which constitutes misinformation.
Because local rhino horn trade is now legal, the barn door is wide open for the legal siphoning of horns out of the country and into the bottomless pit in the Asian markets because of new loosely worded regulations with holes large enough to drive a tractor through. For details on how easy it is now to syphon horns out of the country, read Rhino Bombshell. Juxtapose that with South Africa’s well-earned reputation for fraud and corruption at the highest levels, and ask yourself how confident you feel that regulations will be respected.
Some would argue that the demand for rhino horn in South Africa is very low and that local trade won’t be strong. Fear not, because human nature is such that a resource in one country will soon find itself in another country if the incentive is strong enough. And we all know that international borders are notoriously porous when it comes to illicit goods. In any case, local rhino owners can now legally send two horns out for every willing foreign national they can find to carry them out of the country (only for their personal use, of course).
The pro-traders speak of plans to set up a central selling organisation, as De Beers did, to increase demand and manipulate the price. They also speak of encouraging commodity speculators to buy and sell rhino horn. This drives terror into the hearts of those who understand how financial instruments disconnect from the underlying commodity and drive processes that cannot be understood or controlled. Let’s roll the dice with our wild rhinos, then.
Contrary to the pro traders claim, selling farmed rhino horn will not reduce demand for wild rhino horn. In East Asian markets ‘wild’ horn is said to come with the bloody ear of the poached rhino – to prove authenticity and increase the price. It’s no secret that the Asian market prefers wild products to farmed products: “Farmers report a strong consumer preference and willingness to pay more for wild-sourced products”, and so there will be no let-up on the pressures that our conservation teams across the country face from the international criminal gangs that are stripping our national parks of rhinos. It’s also no secret that creating legal channels will help stimulate demand and provide a convenient channel through which to launder illegal horn.
I believe in sustainable utilisation that is transparent, well-regulated and ethical when the model holds up to stress testing and will ultimately benefit populations of animals in the wild (as opposed to small fenced farms and feedlots). Rhinos in small fenced areas are easy to protect; those in our national parks are not. Ask any SANParks ranger or anti-poaching unit member.
It boils down to this: Because of the situation in South Africa, permitting trade in rhino horn will increase the poaching of rhinos in our national parks and hasten this wonderful creature towards extinction in the wild. If our private rhino owners wish to find additional ways to monetize their rhinos (and who can blame them?), they need to develop a plan that is not so obviously full of holes.
There are records of lions inhabiting the northern Namib desert along the Skeleton Coast in Namibia as far back as 1934. Desert-adapted lions were observed to be common in the coastal regions, mountains, and rivers between the lower Kuiseb River and the Kunene River. They were believed to be plentiful in the Kaokoveld and along the Kunene valley. The Skeleton Coast National Park was proclaimed in 1967, and since then, they have been put on the map as an iconic species of this unique desert region.
However, today, their population is under threat from human influence, and human-lion conflict is the primary factor holding them back from truly thriving in their natural habitat.
Thankfully, there are good people behind the scenes fighting to ensure the survival of this magnificent, resilient species. Photographer Ingrid Mandt has been photographing the desert creatures of Namibia for 25 years, and here she provides us with a stunning portfolio of the iconic desert-adapted lions of Namibia. This gallery is an inspirational visual account of the resilience and highly adaptive nature of an iconic species facing real survival challenges, and we hope that these photographs move and inspire you to treasure the beauty and strength of one of Africa’s wildest species.
Contrary to the social media hysteria over the past few weeks, there will be no ‘Super Tusker’ ‘100 Pounder’ elephant hunted at Timbavati in the Greater Kruger. There was never going to be such a hunt.
That juicy but ultimately misleading story resulted in some pretty vicious social media attacks on lodges within Timbavati and calls to boycott Timbavati lodges – the very lodges that represent the only viable alternative funding solution to trophy hunting, and have almost no say in the reserve’s management decisions.
The irony is that the real debate should be about the trophy hunts that do in fact happen at Timbavati (and other nearby reserves). I would like to believe that every reasonable person out there wishes that trophy hunting as a means of game reserve funding has to stop.
However, this debate requires accurate facts and proper context, in the interest of informed and responsible discourse. This issue – the use of trophy hunting for conservation benefit – is complex and emotional for most of us (me included) and it surely deserves better than what we have witnessed in the past few weeks. I ask that you please read to the very end of this long post.
THE BIG ISSUE
Four private nature reserves – Balule, Klaserie, Timbavati and Umbabat – collectively referred to as the Associated Private Nature Reserves (APNR), share an unfenced border with South Africa’s Kruger National Park and every year apply to the relevant authorities for their offtake permits (trophy hunting and culling). Revenue from trophy hunting pays for the management of the reserves and culling is done to reduce the impact of certain species (mainly impalas) on the vegetation, especially during periods of drought. Included in the most recent offtake application was the trophy hunting of elephants, lions, buffalos and rhinos. Leopards were also on the list, but that was a formality because there is a zero leopard hunting quota countrywide and therefore no such permit will be issued.
A journalist writing for an activist platform obtained a copy of the requested offtake figures for the four combined reserves from informal sources. He added the terms ‘100-Pounder’ and ‘Super Tusker’ to the equation, suggested impropriety surrounding the leopard issue, focused his anger on Timbavati (more specifically on Timbavati tourism lodges) and went public with a somewhat dramatic headline. The story was accepted at face value and republished by various publications and activists. One publication even added ‘canned’ hunting to their headline, to spice things up.
The two contextual matters that should frame this debate:
1. Zero poaching
Timbavati has suffered zero poaching incidents in the past 18 months, a period when neighbouring private reserves and the Kruger itself have experienced an unprecedented loss of rhinos and elephants to international wildlife crime syndicates. This rare success does not, in my opinion, justify keeping trophy hunting into the future, but it does demonstrate the calibre of management happening at Timbavati.
2. The ‘100-Pounder’, ‘Super Tusker’ elephant
Much of the uproar in social media circles was caused because the activist platform elevated the status of one particular elephant in the offtake application from ‘trophy bull’ to ‘100-Pounder’ and ‘Super Tusker’. And yet there never was going to be a ‘100 Pounder’ or ‘Super Tusker’ hunt.
Perhaps this was simply opportunistic marketing because the topic of ‘Super Tuskers’ was trending on social media and emotions (including mine) were running high after this tragic story the previous week about the loss of yet another of Tsavo’s Super Tuskers – giant elephants with tusks in excess of 100 pounds each – highly sought-after by trophy hunters.
The use of these specific terms by the activist platform demands a closer look.
Hunting any elephant is, in my opinion, just wrong – but for now, let’s focus on the facts of this particular situation. Regarding the offtake application in question, the ‘trophy bull’ requested specifically excluded Tuskers / Super Tuskers. Not only does the Timbavati protocol exclude all ‘iconic’, named, and collared elephants, management has also stated categorically that no 100-Pounder will be hunted even if one is found that is not named, collared, or iconic – as the agreed protocol and agreements with the relevant authorities specifically excludes all 100-Pounders. This information was provided to the journalist who wrote the story.
According to Timbavati management, the ‘trophy elephant’ in question will firstly be older than 50 years (they believe that these old bulls have lost too much condition to compete with younger breeding bulls and are therefore no longer contributing to the population. I disagree, but let’s move on for now), and secondly ‘tusk weight unlimited’ – a very vague and clumsy wording, but apparently meaning that they stopped defining elephant trophies by tusk size after advice by researchers that this practice was detrimental to the large tusked elephant gene pool.
During my research into this issue, I obtained the hunting records from Timbavati for the past 10 years. I discovered that no 100 Pounders were hunted during that period, and in a subsequent email discussion determined that no 100 Pounder has been hunted in the area for at least 19 years (current management memory). The heaviest tusk record I could trace over 10 years was 60 pounds in 2013. In other words, no Tuskers or Super Tuskers.
If ‘100-Pounder’ ‘Super Tuskers’ were never in the picture to begin with, why was this the headliner and main message being driven home by the journalist and activist platform? Was this a giant red herring?
Let’s now focus on Timbavati and why they use trophy hunting to fund their costs, so that we can come up with viable alternatives.
The 53,395 hectare Timbavati in the Greater Kruger National Park, South Africa, has used trophy hunting to finance the running of the reserve (including anti-poaching operations) since it was proclaimed in 1956. At the time, the land was farmed and had become degraded with very few wild animals around – despite sharing a border with the Kruger. The owners agreed to forgo farming income and place the land into permanent protected status, with restrictive title deed endorsement binding all future owners, and the ongoing costs to be funded by operations.
In the subsequent 37 years, wildlife numbers grew in this fenced reserve. In 1993, fences between Timbavati and Kruger were dropped to permit natural local migration of wildlife. Timbavati thus became part of one of Africa’s best conservation success stories, increasing the size of the Greater Kruger by 10% to 2.2 million hectares.
At Timbavati, trophy hunting is highly regulated, based on annual census and scientific assessment by external scientists, in the context of environmental factors. This leads to offtake applications and ultimately regulatory approval.
Wildlife populations in Timbavati
Over the past 20 years, annual population counts in Timbavati show stability in wildlife populations, subject to cycles associated with drought and abundance. The fact that animals can migrate freely into the massive neighbouring Kruger also adds an element of fluctuation to populations. I have studied the stats provided, conducted my own layman analysis, and asked questions with a critical eye.
Significantly, in the past 20 years, elephant populations in Timbavati have increased by 400% and rhinos by 500%. A rough, back-of-a-matchbox calculation of current densities of those two species reveals that, when compared to Kruger, Timbavati hosts many times the number of elephants and rhinos per 1,000 hectares (I am unable to reveal the precise figure, for security reasons). There are probably reasons associated with specific veld types and permanent water availability, or possibly even local migrations, at the time of year when the count occurs.
Costs to manage Timbavati
Timbavati currently requires about R20 million per year to manage the reserve. Almost 40% of that is spent on anti-poaching security (up from 15% two years ago). The security cost is expected to rise significantly in coming years as increasingly determined and well-resourced crime syndicates focus on the last remaining honey pots.
Timbavati is a privately-owned game reserve and therefore cannot rely on donors or taxpayers to fund its costs. The above annual cost is currently funded as follows:
♦ 61% by trophy hunting revenue
♦ 17% by tourism visitors (currently at R215 per visit)
♦ 22% by landowner levies
Poaching in Timbavati
As mentioned earlier, Timbavati has experienced zero poaching incidents in the past 18 months. For illustrative purposes only, let’s assume that Timbavati did not have such a strong management team, or that the necessary funding to control poaching was not available, and therefore suffered the same ratio of rhino poaching as its Kruger neighbour. Bearing in mind the relative areas under conservation and Kruger’s loss of 662 rhinos in 2016, Timbavati could conceivably have suffered the loss of 18 rhinos to poaching. If I factor in the relative density of rhinos in Timbavati, this figure balloons to a figure I can’t reveal due to security concerns. This potential loss of even 18 rhinos to poaching is in stark contrast to the one rhino that actually was trophy hunted in Timbavati in 2016.
Again, this is a back-of-a-matchbox calculation and not the stuff of headlines or bold claims, but it does provide the necessary context to the debate.
♦ Timbavati attracts approximately 24,000 photographic tourist visits to the reserve per annum, compared to 46 trophy hunters who will hunt 81 animals during the coming year (not the thousands claimed by the activists);
♦ The average trophy hunter in Timbavati brings in about 1,800 times the revenue to the reserve coffers compared to the average photographic tourist;
♦ Currently, the revenue from trophy hunting to fund reserve management and security amounts to 3.6 times that of the tourism contribution. More on how this model has to change further on.
A full comparison of trophy hunting to tourism is extremely complex, and here are just two qualitative factors to consider:
♦ Tourism generates more jobs and skills advancement than hunting, and is, therefore, more sustainable as an economic model acceptable to the all-important local communities, and to human social evolution;
♦ Hunting has a lower physical environmental footprint – buildings, roads, vehicles, power, water, sanitation, etc.
On the matter of culling
Culling is an integral aspect to game reserve management, even for an area the size of the Kruger National Park. The vast majority of the offtake figures applied for by the four game reserves in question relates specifically to the culling of impalas.
Many well-known game reserves in South Africa that market themselves as being free of trophy hunting take part in culling and/or live capture exercises. This is an inconvenient truth that is seldom discussed openly. Perhaps it’s time for the naked truth?
Comparing Timbavati and Sabi Sand revenue models
The Sabi Sand Game Reserve is a renowned safari mecca not far south of Timbavati and is host to some of this country’s top safari brands, including Londolozi, Singita and Mala Mala. They too used to derive revenue from trophy hunting, until the density and price tag of lodges was sufficient to switch entirely to funding from tourism. To this day, Sabi Sand Wildtuin management meetings host active debate about the use of trophy hunting to meet costs, but thankfully the ‘no’ vote seems to prevail.
Timbavati seems to be on that same journey, and it is my fervent hope that they achieve the same end-goal.
Revenue comparison between Timbavati and the Sabi Sands, two similarly-sized game reserves:
♦ Sabi Sand: 716 beds at a price tag of R4,000 – R23,000 per person per night
♦ Timbavati: 259 beds at a price tag of R2,000 – R11,000 per person per night
In a nutshell, Sabi Sand generates several times the tourism revenue of Timbavati because it has more beds and attracts a higher price tag, and is, therefore, able to generate sufficient management funding without the need for trophy hunting.
In simple terms, the only solution is to build up tourism revenue for Timbavati to the extent that trophy hunting is no longer required, as has been achieved by Sabi Sand. Juxtapose that end goal with the current activist campaign to boycott Timbavati lodges, and the likely consequence of trophy hunting further entrenching itself.
Based on current costs and extensive data made available by some of the Timbavati lodges and by Timbavati reserve management (two separate bodies), the following:
♦ Timbavati lodges would need to raise tourism levies by a factor of almost five times the current revenue. This could be done by a combination of more lodges/beds, and by increasing the conservation levy per visit.
♦ Too many lodges/beds would surely ruin what is a sought-after, low-density safari experience. Timbavati currently enjoys 24,000 visits per annum – a revised 110,000 visits seems very high for this particular area. Lodges cannot for logistical reasons operate at extremely high occupancies, and most Timbavati lodges already operate at almost 60% average occupancy for the year. Therefore, this solution in effect boils down to the building of four to five times as many lodges/beds as to what currently exists.
♦ Increasing the conservation levy from the current R215 to R985 per visit – more than double that being charged by the more populous Sabi Sand if one assumes a 3-day visit.
Right now, the Timbavati lodge owners are engaged in this debate and actively negotiating with Timbavati reserve management for a new model that could conceivably result in a reduced dependency on trophy hunting to fund the reserve. Note though that most lodges have very little say in these matters, as not only are many of them simply tenants, but they are also not mandated to make reserve management decisions.
This solution will I would imagine require years to implement – and in the meantime, Timbavati reserve management requires funding to continue their work.
Timbavati management
I first met Timbavati chief warden Bryan Havemann in mid-2016 when I cycled through Timbavati as part of a fundraising exercise to combat poaching. During a brief discussion, he asked if I was prepared to meet with him to discuss how best to communicate the realities of sustainable utilisation to members of the public. In February this year, he again contacted me and we arranged that I would visit his bushveld office during the time when I had planned to visit several lodges in the reserve. Two days before my visit this social media storm broke cover, and so what was going to be a casual discussion turned into an inquisition from my side as to what was really going on.
Let me be frank. I am impressed with the man, with the research-based adaptive strategy that has been implemented and what has been achieved. I have serious misgivings about their trophy hunting dependency and have communicated that in no uncertain terms to Havemann, and to a broader body of his colleagues.
But I also accept that my perspective is that of a largely desk-bound urban person. To cut to the core, Timbavati’s track record speaks for itself. I have no doubt that the management team will continue to apply themselves totally to whatever needs to be done to keep Timbavati safe from the wildlife trafficking criminals that are operating with seeming impunity elsewhere. Reality suggests that it’s unlikely that the zero-poaching scorecard will prevail indefinitely, but hopefully, the Timbavati team will react to incidents with the precision and dedication displayed so far.
Final thoughts
Trophy hunting is a colonial-era industry that celebrates killing animals for fun and ego. Surely this industry no longer has a place in Africa if there are suitable alternatives for conservation funding?
Timbavati does have an alternative, and it’s now time to evolve their funding model by increasing the conservation levies paid by tourists and eventually doing away with trophy hunting. I hope that tourists will accept this increase in price and feel proud at being part of the solution.
The journey is not a linear one – game reserve management teams all over Africa face daily realities that cannot be whisked away by a fit of keyboard warrior rage, or advice such as ‘put all the animals somewhere safe’. And activist thuggery is not the way forward either, where fake reporting, instant utopian solutions, and emotional bulldozing dominates discussion, and reasonable experienced voices are drowned out.
I, for one, choose fact over fiction, and practical workable solutions over keyboard hype. I hope fervently that enough of you agree with me to help evolve Timbavati and others from dependence on trophy hunting to tourism for that much-needed management and anti-poaching revenue. After all, Sabi Sand was afforded that freedom.
And above all, I ask that each of you go on safari somewhere in Africa, as soon as possible. And then go again.
Professional wildlife photographer Greg du Toit has photographed some of Africa’s wildest, remotest and largest ecosystems. His artwork has hung in both the London and Sydney natural history museums and his ‘Authentic Africa’ collections have been exhibited across the globe, from New York to Singapore. African wildlife is his speciality, and his preferred genre is fine-art wildlife photography, whereby his photographic works are easily recognised by the tangible mood, primitive energy and vibrant colours that they convey.
In this body of work, entitled ‘In the Footsteps of Giants‘, Greg spent three years photographing elephants around Africa in unique settings and locations – mainly from inside waterholes! Read the photographer’s note on this portfolio below:
“I hope that through this body of work people will appreciate what incredibly wonderful creatures elephants are. Sadly, Africa has lost 70% of its elephant population in the last 40 years and alarmingly, in these modern times, elephants are being hunted and poached at a faster rate than they are being born. Hunters come out to shoot elephants so that they can take trophies home to brag. Poachers kill elephants just so that their teeth can be turned into ornaments. I hope that this body of work will help create greater love and appreciation for elephants and awaken the collective human conscience so that these wonderfully intelligent and gentle giants will be around for future generations to see and enjoy. Climbing into the water to photograph them would be a minimal price to pay if this were to happen.”
See more of Greg’s work on his website and follow him on Instagram
This is a significant photograph, on a personal level, I mean. Yes, it won me the highest accolade in world wildlife photography back in 2013, but more than this, it sparked me on a three-year journey that has been simply incredible.
When I took this shot, I thought it was the end of my journey with elephants as it came after many years of trying to capture the mysterious quality of elephants in a photograph. But, as it turns out, it was only the beginning. Since taking this shot, I have spent the last three years working on my ‘In The Footsteps Of Giants’ project whereby I have spent hundreds of hours with elephants. I have flown in helicopters looking for giant tuskers, and I have descended into an extinct volcano (Ngorongoro) to do the same. I have been to the Congo basin and the Skeleton Coast in search of elephants. I have even sat inside a waterhole with them. It has been a spellbinding journey, and now I have this body of work that I can proudly share with the world.
The snowcapped peak and glaciers of Mount Kilimanjaro feed the swamps at her base, and one of my goals for my ‘In The Footsteps Of Giants’ project was to capture an elephant herd making its evening sojourn across Africa’s dry plains.
Here, you see a herd in the twilight, crossing the dry lakebed of Amboseli National Park, with the base of Mount Kilimanjaro in the background. Having quenched their thirst, they are heading back to their feeding grounds for the night. The parade of elephants disturbed insects in the grass, much to the delight of the accompanying egrets. Everything in nature is connected.
Elephants fit into that special category of animals with tangible souls. They are undoubtedly intelligent; but are far more than that. When you spend time with them, you eventually come to recognise something of yourself in them, and for this reason, it was essential for this project that I capture the eye, or rather the soul, of an elephant. I took hundreds upon hundreds of photographs of elephants’ eyes, but this shot rose to the top for me. This is the frame that connects me with this magnificent beast, and I hope it does the same for you.
Young elephant bulls often wrestle with one another. This behaviour, while fun, is also critical as it prepares the young males for the more serious fights that they will one day face when they have to ward off rival bulls for mating rights.
The beauty of a photograph lies in its ability to capture a single moment in time. In a fraction of a second, the camera affords us the gift of suspending a singular point in both time and space. For this image, I tried to delay the recording of this moment, and I managed to delay it just long enough for the energy of the young bulls fighting to transfer into my camera. Any longer and the moment would have dissolved.
Seeing a Big Tusker is now an infrequent occurrence because their gene pool has been thinned out, by both hunters and poachers. But, they do still exist, and we must make sure that they always do! For to see such an animal is like seeing a dinosaur; it is a living version of the ancient mammoth and a most mythical beast. It was in Kenya that I, late one evening, came across this incredible tusker and not knowing quite how to photograph him, I chose to exclude his head and body. I wanted to draw attention to his large tusks, but more than that, I wanted to preserve the mystery of this mythical beast and to present my subject as a prehistoric giant stepping into the frame.
It was late November and the end of a drought in Botswana’s Tuli Block. On this particular afternoon in the waterhole, there had been nonstop action, and although I was in the water, I was sweating. This was partly due to the heat and partly because the largest land mammals on planet earth surrounded me! Their toenails looked huge as they towered above me!
It might be hard to appreciate looking at this photo, but the waterhole is the size of a small domestic swimming pool, so I was right under their noses – or should I say trunks? The life of a wildlife photographer can, at times, be very boring – and at other times, extremely exciting, to the point where you are flirting with the thin line that separates life and death. Thankfully, I have enough experience now to slow down and appreciate those special moments when I am right on the line. Here you see me dropping my camera and taking it all in, just for a moment.
One of the significant advantages of photographing at the waterhole was that the elephants, although they knew I was there, never saw me as a threat. Elephants are wonderful mothers and very protective of their herd, but the elephants in the Tuli Block of Botswana know that it is a safe haven for them, and the mothers are more relaxed than in other parts of Africa.
Being a professional wildlife photographer, I am often afforded a window into the world of wild animals – and this is a great delight and privilege, but never more so than when a baby elephant goes about its business of learning life’s lessons. Here you see this young elephant trying to get to grips with her trunk and how exactly she should go about having a drink. Her mother stands patiently above her.
One of the most amazing things to witness in the African bush is an elephant herd getting excited about a visit to the waterhole. Although elephants can’t officially run (they can only speed walk), it must be said that they come closest to running when approaching a waterhole.
The herd gets visibly excited as they rush towards the water, and here you see a little calf leading the charge.
With a baby elephant only two metres away, and at eye level, it splashed mud everywhere. As I focused on its eye, my camera got covered in mud. Just another day at the office for me! And a reminder to have fun and play!
Occasionally one is treated to a special sunset, the kind that glows long after the sun has disappeared below the horizon. It was when leading a predator safari in the Maasai Mara that my guests and I witnessed one such sunset, and by positioning ourselves in a valley, we had a magnificent and silhouetted subject in the form of an elephant. The pachyderm was slowly walking along the ridge, plucking grass – and in the very last light of the day, I managed to squeeze out one more frame. This is that special frame.
This big boy had swum out into the middle of the Zambezi River, where he was enjoying the cool water and the lush green grass on an island. It was late November and the hottest time of year in the Zambezi Valley. I longed to jump in with the bull and celebrate life just the way he was. I even asked my guide if I could, but he was quick to point out the danger of crocodiles!
He was right, of course.
All I could do was lie down on the boat and watch with fascination as the largest land mammal on earth frolicked in the water. The sun eventually set, and the watery foreground turned into an orange swirl. Light rays refracted, reflected and bounced onto the face of my subject. Our eyes locked, and I immediately recognised that I could potentially capture a photograph that conveyed the beauty and mystery of one of God’s greatest creatures. Moments like this are what make me feel so incredibly privileged to do what I do, and I am so grateful that the camera allows me to share them with you.
My wife and I were canoeing on the Zambezi River when out of the blue, this elephant came charging at us from beyond the riverbank. There was nowhere to hide, and so I dropped my oar and picked up my camera (much to the dismay of my poor wife, I might add). More often than not, when an elephant comes rushing at you kicking up a storm, they are ‘mock charging’ and have no intention of harming you, rather just giving you a friendly warning sign to move away.
In a remote forest clearing in the Zambezi Valley, I spent the afternoon with this elephant bull. He was most interested in the pods of the Winterthorn tree and in an attempt to reach them, he leaned in and stretched his trunk as high as he could. The soft afternoon light was filtering through the forest, creating orange and blue hues. It was a magical scene.
It had long been a dream of mine to see and photograph a Namibian desert-adapted elephant. It remains an incredible mystery to me how these gigantic creatures can survive in a harsh desert.
I was more than chuffed to finally catch up with this bull on the Skelton Coast of Namibia.
Following the bull, as he passed by a sand dune, I knew that this would be the frame that I had come here for. I had to travel all the way to the Congo to get a shot of a forest elephant and juxtaposed against this frame, I can only marvel at the adaptability of this incredible species. I believe that we will win the fight to halt elephant poaching and that they will roam deserts, forests and savannahs for future generations to see and enjoy. I must believe this, I am a wildlife photographer and an ambassador for wild creatures. It is my duty to bring inspiring portraits of elephants to the world. It was, after all, Sir David Attenborough, who once said that “images have the power to affect how we feel about the natural world and therefore how we treat it.”
At work inside the waterhole for my ‘In The Footsteps Of Giants‘ project. I hope that this body of work will be remembered, not because of the crazy photographer who climbed into a waterhole, but rather for the awareness it raised and for drawing attention to elephants. All animals are special and consequential and need to be conserved, but elephants seem to me to be extra special animals. They possess a rare kind of intelligence and cognitive understanding. They are giant, yet gentle creatures and they are also a keystone species to the ecosystem, meaning that should they go extinct, the entire ecosystem will fail. We need to continue working hard to ensure that doesn’t happen.
For camps & lodges at the best prices and our famous ready-made safari packages, log into our app. If you do not yet have our app see the instructions below this story.
The early morning phone call came into the Wildlife Works offices in Tsavo, Kenya. A baby elephant had been hit by a large truck. Written by Raabia Hawa, Founder of Walk With Rangers
Head ranger Eric Sagwe responded swiftly, using the donated anti-poaching vehicle. He set off, with numerous thoughts running through his mind, “They must be mistaking it for another smaller animal, surely not a baby elephant! What if it’s still alive?”
When he arrived at the scene, people had begun to gather around…
There he lay, an elephant not more than two or three weeks old, his young life terminated. Just like that.
According to community members who had witnessed the incident, a family of elephants crossing the busy highway that dissects East and West Tsavo turned back when faced by the barrier of the new elevated Mombasa-Nairobi standard gauge railway – the biggest infrastructure project in Kenya since the country’s independence. Unaware of the underpasses provided for elephants, the herd turned back in the confusion and panic, and the little one was struck by an oncoming truck.
People crowded the scene, eager to utilise the calf for meat. Thankfully, Eric wasn’t going to have any of it and carried the calf’s lifeless body into the vehicle. With a heavy heart, he drove deep into the bush, where he left the baby elephant in a peaceful spot.
The controversial railway line has impacted on communities living around Kenya’s famed Tsavo ecosystem, with human-wildlife conflict cases rising significantly since the construction began; putting pressure on wildlife, and inevitably transferring that pressure to people – a fact that perhaps was overlooked during the planning process.
My regular drive to Tsavo regularly reveals numerous roadkills – from hyenas to mongooses, squirrels, giraffes and even endangered Grevy’s zebras. Even lions, the majestic symbol of Kenya’s Coat of Arms, have been forever silenced on this highway.
Tsavo’s elephants have been an iconic species for Kenya since it’s independence. They bring in much-needed revenue for the tourism industry, thereby contributing significantly to the nation’s GDP and to employment levels. We revere elephants and respect their close family structures and contributions to the ecosystem services we all enjoy, even in the cities.
We mourn the loss of such a young life, but perhaps this young elephant’s legacy is to help us inform you what is happening here in Tsavo.
Africa is untamed, rugged and breathtakingly beautiful. It offers the adventure traveller a kaleidoscope of experiences that will imprint the essence of Africa on your soul for life. From stark desert landscapes to lush green plains teeming with wildlife, Africa is unique in its diversity and sheer natural splendour. This is Elephant Ignite territory.
Sadly, Africa is also a continent mercilessly targeted by poachers, stripping it of its wildlife and threatening one of its most majestic inhabitants, the African elephant, with extinction. In the last decade, Central Africa has lost 64% of its elephant population as a result of the ivory trade. A staggering 30 000 elephants are killed every year across Africa – and sadly, it has now become a battle for survival for these majestic and gentle giants.
Enter the all-female crew of the Elephant Ignite Expedition, a group of passionate ladies from vastly different walks of life who embarked on a 16 000km, 100-day journey across 10 African countries to cast the spotlight on the poaching crisis. The expedition focussed on community upliftment, youth education, public awareness for wildlife crime and poaching, and a fundraising drive to support the organisations that are fighting the critical conservation battles on the frontline.
Travelling through South Africa, Swaziland, Mozambique, Zimbabwe, Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, Tanzania, Malawi and Kenya, the ladies visited 37 conservation organisations to get involved and to gain a deeper understanding of the work they do. They distributed 20 000 educational booklets to schools and communities along the way, and also delivered talks and performances focussed around conservation amongst the youth. The entire crew self-funded all their participation costs, and the proceeds from the fundraising campaigns were directed to the nominated beneficiary projects.
“Every one of us can make a difference, no matter how big or small. We set out determined to ignite a fire in the hearts and minds of Africans, that would ultimately help to fight the war that is raging against our wildlife. We finished 100 days later, stronger than ever and even more dedicated to doing more for our wildlife. I am exceptionally proud and honoured to have organised and led this crew of amazing ladies with such big hearts, and to have raised awareness, connected organisations and hopefully come up with some solutions for how we can initiate change ” said expedition leader, Carla Geyser from registered NPO Blue Sky Society Trust. The Elephant Ignite Expedition was one of the Trust’s conservation projects for 2016.
In true female style, the rugged-looking vehicles received some rather emotionally charged, but very apt names: ‘Courage’, ‘Hope’ and ‘Love’. Courage, loosely defined as , “the ability to do something that frightens you,” aptly named for all the courageous people out there with the incredibly tough task of living and working on the front lines to keep Africa’s wildlife safe. Also, because an all-women, African expedition – the first of its kind in the word – was an incredibly courageous undertaking and took some real guts.
Hope, because the people so passionately committed to African conservation give hope for all the endangered species on the continent. Elephant Ignite also hopes that their journey helped to ignite passion and inspire change, providing the people they met along the way a renewed sense of hope that they have what it takes to continue fighting the good fight.
Love, because without love and compassion, there would be no hope or courage for people to do what they do and make the sacrifices necessary to save Africa’s wildlife. The Elephant Ignite crew are full of love for Africa’s special places and wildlife, and on this particular journey, they came together as a powerful sisterhood in the battle for Africa’s elephants.
Travelling through some of Africa’s most scenic and awe-inspiringly beautiful regions was one of the most memorable experiences for this tough-as-nails group. Always on the move, they covered long distances under the challenging conditions expected of any real African adventure – with water crossings and heavy sand on some of the characteristic African dirt roads putting their adventure driving skills to the test!
For the team, the journey was a roller coaster of emotions, and they embraced Mother Africa with loads of laughter, the odd tear and an unwavering sense of connected sisterhood.
MEMORABLE MOMENTS
Along their journey, the team had the incredible opportunity to spend time and get involved hands-on with some on-the-ground conservation efforts in critical conservation areas in Africa. Here, they detail some of the most memorable moments from their active participation in the various conservation efforts they got involved in along the way.
A hands-on elephant collaring operation of three elephants with Dr Michelle Henley from Elephants Alive in Hoedspruit. The crew was part of the immobilisation team and stepped in to assist with data collection, sampling and measurements. The expedition also funded a tracking collar for one of the female elephants and Dr Henley announced that they would be naming the female “Ignite” in honour of the expedition’s elephant conservation efforts. The team have a follow-up visit scheduled for 2017 to report back on the progress of this project.
Taking part in an active anti-poaching roadblock with Conservation South Luangwa and their canine unit in Zambia that positioned the team on the frontline of anti-poaching operations, where they truly discovered how dangerous it is for the teams on the ground.
The expedition donated funds to install a borehole and water pump in Mndanka village in Malawi – a community bordering on the Kasungu National Park where the human-elephant conflict is extreme. The community had no access to water and used to go into the park for water, putting them at risk for conflict with elephants. With access to water, their risk of elephant encounters is reduced, and they now grow crops and oyster mushrooms as the first step in a sustainable permaculture initiative. Newly installed beehive fences also help keep the elephants at bay. The expedition officially unveiled the pump and had a tour of the new agricultural initiatives.
A visit to farmers in rural Kenya where the beehive fences that EIE donated as part of the Elephants and Bees Project with Dr Lucy King are helping to mitigate human-elephant conflict. EIE sponsored hives to protect the crops for two rural farmers, Phelicia Wanyika and Josiah Kimanga in Mwambiti Village, Sagalla. This project is gaining traction across Africa and providing tangible benefits to protect the communities and elephants.
A visit to the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust‘s release facility in Voi, Kenya. The DSWT team care selflessly for orphaned elephant calves, never leaving their sides and sleeping with the young calves at night. Once they are a bit older, the calves are allowed to roam into the wild for extended periods and taught to be more independent. This facility cares for the slightly older calves and prepares them for their release back into the wild.
A tour of Ol Pejeta Conservancy, Kenya and meeting ‘Sudan’, the last living male Northern white rhino left in the world, destined for extinction. Standing next to this magnificent animal, everyone was overcome with deep sadness and shame at the realisation that humanity has failed the rhino as a species, as we have failed so many others before him.
Meet ‘Sudan’ in the video below.
The immobilisation and successful treatment of an injured elephant cow in Kenya with Kenya Wildlife Services. The cow was found with spear wounds, and members of the team supported KWS during the rescue mission. Just a couple of days later, on a visit to Save the Elephants research camp, yet another emergency search and rescue mission prompted the team to rush out and locate an orphaned calf “Shaba” in Samburu National Park. The mother was killed, leaving behind two calves; the older calf was reunited with the herd and the young baby, successfully darted and airlifted to safety at the Reteti Elephant Sanctuary. Shaba is doing very well and proved to be a real leader, already taking on a matriarch role at the sanctuary.
This expedition was a real journey with purpose, allowing the team to explore Mother Africa and experience her in all her splendour. Breathtakingly beautiful, at times brutal, but always ready to welcome and inspire. It has ignited a passion in each of the ladies to protect and commit to sharing stories of the work done by the extraordinary wildlife warriors on the frontline of African wildlife conservation.
To find out more about the expedition team, continue reading below the advert.
THE TEAM
The team consisted of six permanent crew members that completed the entire journey, and seven alternating crew that joined for shorter periods. Each permanent crew member had a stake in the planning and on the expedition, the duties were shared between all team members. A duty roster ensured that the workload was covered and that each person pulled their weight. The responsibilities included: cooking, washing up, maintenance and safety.
The maintenance involved setting up the camp chairs and tables, making fires and spraying all the tents with a special mosquito repellent. The safety person had to charge two-way radios and GPS’s for the following day’s use. She also had to remain with the vehicles during stops to ensure that no-one tampered with them, and ran extra checks on locks or items left behind. Security is critical when travelling in Africa…
THE VEHICLES
The Elephant Ignite expedition would not have been possible without the three fully-kitted safari vehicles sponsored by Avis 4×4 Safari Rentals/Overland 360. The 4×4 Ford Ranger proved itself as a reliable, all-terrain workhorse. The ladies prepared for off-road driving under the watchful eye of 4×4 instructors and braved a selection of difficult obstacles during their training sessions. From rough ditches, fearsome hills, steep declines, deep sand, mud and water – even with the added weight of carrying a ‘mini motel’ on the back of the vehicles – the Ford Rangers performed reliably and brilliantly.
View a map of all the national parks and reserves visited on the expedition below
About the authors
Expedition leader Carla Geyser (founder of the Blue Sky Society Trust) started dreaming about doing an expedition dedicated to elephants in 2012. She just loves elephants and wanted to do something special to make a difference for them, and to say thank you to the people on the ground who work continuously to ensure their survival. The Elephant Ignite Expedition was her way of paying tribute to these majestic animals.
Permanent crew member Yolande Kruger is extremely passionate about Africa, and serves as an executive board member of the Lawrence Anthony Earth Organisation. She is also a patron of the Blue Sky Society Trust. She believes that elephants are an iconic species, and that everyday individuals can do more to support and create awareness for the survival of these majestic animals. This was her motive on this expedition, and Elephant Ignite is a brand that she is proud to be associated with.
Most of us take elephants for granted.Written by Carla Geyser
They are the largest land mammal on earth and a key part of the Big Five. We often get to marvel at their beauty on African wildlife postcards or admire them while watching National Geographic documentaries. Most people think it’s the rhino that is the only animal under threat, but sadly elephants are right up there alongside them.
These magnificent lumbering giants are steadily being butchered at an alarming rate. Elephants are one of the major casualties of a poaching war against wildlife that has completely spiralled out of control. If you live in Africa and have had contact with the wildlife it is hard not to have the urge to protect them fiercely. But what can we all do about it?
The Elephant Ignite Expedition was an idea that I came up with as a way to raise money and awareness for elephant conservation projects. My idea was to bring a group of passionate and skilled women to see first-hand just what the real threats were against these mighty creatures. To harness their talents and to try and find solutions.
This epic expedition was a means to highlight in the worldwide media what is happening to these animals on a grand scale. The expedition was plotted over 15,787 kilometres over a period of 100 days.
This dynamic all-female crew left Durban on Women’s Day, 9 August 2016, and proceeded to visit ten different countries, visiting 37 projects that work tirelessly to save the dwindling elephant populations. All this was done within 100 days. An amazing achievement!
I have been asked plenty of time: why only women? Well, elephants have always been one of my passions – they seem to embody everything that is good about Africa and family. Elephants are wise old souls and they are deeply intelligent.
The herd is managed by a matriarch. There are things that we as a species can learn from the matriarch. She leads her herd with great strength and confidence, secure in any decisions she needs to make, but at the same time leading with a firm, but gentle hand. Elephants are full of compassion and empathy, and they are not shy to show their emotions. Most of all a matriarch relies on her network. She does nothing alone and has her family and all the other elephants to lean on. As a combined unit they achieve a WHOLE lot more than as individuals.
We can learn SO much from our wildlife if we just open our eyes, our ears and our hearts.
Another giant has fallen to poachers, and the remaining estimated 50-100 Tuskers survive in small pockets across East and Southern Africa, pursued by poachers and trophy hunters alike. You see, it’s their tusks, 100 pounds on each side to qualify as a ‘Tusker’, that is their crowning glory and their death sentence.
Our blog post earlier this week goes into the details of Satao 2’s death, so my team and I wish to pay tribute to him, as we did in 2014 for his erstwhile companion Satao, also claimed by a poacher’s arrow. Every time one of these gentle giants goes down to a poacher or trophy hunter, we lose another part of Africa’s soul.
In the following tributes, you will hear from some of those who had the privilege of being near Satao 2 recently, touched by his massive, gentle presence and saddened at his death. You will also learn more about Tsavo National Park in Kenya and what you can do to help.
There are, of course, many good people working under incredible pressure all over Africa to stem the tide of poaching. On this occasion, though, the spotlight falls on the good people of Kenyan Wildlife Services and the Tsavo Trust, who work tirelessly to safeguard Tsavo’s gentle giants.
Richard Moller, who runs Tsavo Trust, has called for a few Tsavo Tuskers to be granted Presidential Security Decree, as was the case with Marsabit National Park’s famous tusker ‘Ahmed’ in the early 1970s. Now, there is a campaign worth supporting!
If you feel emotional, angry or downright frustrated about the situation, consider finding out about Tsavo Trust and donating some of your hard-earned money. Every little bit helps.
“I am pretty gutted, really. Satao 2 was a good-natured elephant and very approachable, one of those easy old boys to find. Many of the others are much more challenging to see.
Satao 2 has been a film star for many film crews enjoying Tsavo and its last remaining iconic Tuskers. Most recently, Tsavo hosted the BBC “My Family and Me” shoot that took place in mid-2016 and aired in Britain in December 2016 – Satao 2 was showcased to millions of people.
During our ‘Big Tusker Project’ surveillance, we logged Satao 2 no fewer than 160 times since December 2013 – that’s once every 6.5 days on average. Although this undoubtedly did help in his security and gave us a better understanding of his home range (and that of the other impressive emerging Tuskers that he roamed with), this incident shows some gaps need to be filled. There is an urgent need to step up activities with regard to Tsavo’s super tuskers.
Many will miss him.”
Richard Moller
Chief Conservation Officer, Tsavo Trust
“I feel a strong sense of connection to the big tuskers and I made my way to Tsavo National Park in 2016 to spend a week with some of these exceptional, majestic elephant bulls that still survive in Africa. Finding them was not easy, but searching for 11 hours a day eventually ensured success, and I was fortunate to closely observe three of the remaining Tuskers on the continent. Luck was on my side, and I had daily sightings of Satao 2, watching him for hours, flanked by another large bull that seemed so small alongside him in the dry savannah. Drinking at waterholes amongst the herd, he commanded complete respect from all the other elephants. His towering presence will remain with me forever, vividly etched into my memories. His death is another immeasurable loss to the big elephant gene pool and, of course, to Kenya’s tourism industry. Now, more than ever, the last remaining Tuskers need presidential protection.”
Dex Kotze
Businessman, conservation activist and fundraiser
“After hearing about the death of Satao 1 three years ago, I visited Tsavo to look for emerging tuskers. Finally, after days of searching, we spotted a wonderful younger bull called Satao 2 from the air. As we circled over him, I snapped this shot, and I was so ecstatic. His tusks were not as big as those of Satao 1, but my guide exclaimed: “give him ten years, and he will be as big as Satao 1!” Leaving Tsavo, I was so relieved that Satao 2 was ‘in the pipeline’, so to speak, to become one of Africa’s great tuskers. As it turns out, this was not to be. On my visit, I saw many more emerging tuskers – so perhaps now is not the time to mourn.
Now is the time to act! If you want to help, please donate to the ‘Big Tusker Project’ (run by the Tsavo Trust), which not only does aerial surveillance but puts armed scout units on the ground. Every cent helps to employ more scouts. I have visited this project on the ground, and it is excellent. Seriously, every cent helps!”
Greg du Toit
Professional wildlife photographer and guide and winner of ‘Wildlife Photographer of the Year 2013.’
Note from the editor: Apologies for the grainy picture. Greg is currently guiding in Tanzania, and could not email us a higher resolution picture.
The name tuskers or super tuskers, or ‘hundred pounders’ in hunting terms, is reserved for male elephants with at least one tusk of 100 pounds (45,45kg). They tend to be larger than other elephants and stand out in a herd, even when accompanied by other large males.
Trophy hunters have sought out big-tusked elephants since the ‘great white hunter’ days; to this day, they still kill these giant elephants for bragging rights. Yet today, the most immediate threat to tuskers and all elephants is poaching to supply the insatiable demand from the Far East for ivory. Most tuskers have been wiped out after many years of poaching and trophy hunting, and the gene pool is severely compromised.
The massive 44,000 km² Tsavo Conservation Area is home to the world’s highest population of large-tusked elephants, with 6 super tuskers and 15 emerging tuskers (young bulls with the genes and potential to become tuskers). Seven cows with tusks reaching the ground are also being monitored.
Every tusker plays a vital role in the genetic stability of elephant populations and should, in the ideal world, be granted individual protection against those wishing to kill them.
Richard Moller, CEO of Tsavo Trust, has called for a few Tsavo Tuskers to be granted Presidential Security Decree, as was the case with Marsabit National Park’s famous Tusker ‘Ahmed’ in the early 1970s.
East and West Tsavo National Parks combine with the neighbouring Chyulu Hills National Park to form one of Africa’s largest wildlife areas – the Tsavo Conservation Area of 44,000 km2
Tsavo West is dominated by magnificent hills that tower over the surrounding arid plains and shelter the crystal-clear waters of Mzima Springs, where you can sit in an underwater glass chamber to watch hippos and crocodiles. Tsavo East, on the other hand, is a flat thorn and baobab savannah – ideal for spectacular views of the large elephant herds and huge bulls that are famously always covered in red dust.
The view across the arid plains to the iconic Mount Kilimanjaro is spectacular.
One way to contribute to the conservation of Tsavo and the super tuskers is to visit the area on safari. In doing so, you not only contribute to Kenyan revenue but also help lodges employ and upskill local people. For a few years now, we have offered the popular Walking with Giants safari in Tsavo to those of our guests who enjoy an authentic mobile camp safari from a bygone era.
The Tsavo Trust operates the Big Tusker Project in conjunction with Kenyan Wildlife Services. They focus on aerial and ground surveillance and data capture, backed up by the KWS’ rapid reaction teams that deal with poaching incidents.
This successful cooperative model with KWS has substantially reduced poaching in the area despite a chronic shortage of funding.
Tsavo Trust CEO Richard Moller and his co-pilot Josh Outram spend over 60 hours per month logging the movements of Tsavo’s elephants. Since their inception, they have donated more than US$300,000 worth of anti-poaching vehicles and equipment to KWS.
They also work closely with local communities, as they fully appreciate that the survival of Africa’s iconic species depends on the participation of people who live on park borders. Human-wildlife conflict is the cause of so many wild animal deaths in Africa, and no conservation project can succeed without the total involvement of communities at a meaningful level.
Giada and Gianluca Ventura from Italy visited a Maasai village during their recent Kenyan safari and had this to say:
“We had always wanted to visit a Maasai village and witness the famous adumu (‘jumping dance’) as performed by the Morani. During our stay at Sentinel Mara Camp in the Maasai Mara, our dream came true!
We had read many stories regarding the Maasai warriors and wished to understand why they were so widely employed by camps and hotels as askari (guards). Approaching the village, our first clue dawned on us when Dominic, our Maasai guide, pointed to a hyena apparently on the horizon: “Guys… do you see the blood on her face?” The blood?! We couldn’t even see the hyena!
Arriving at the village in the middle of wild Africa, we noticed the fence made of acacia branches with thorns and wondered if it was solid enough to protect the village against wild animals like lions, leopards, and hyenas.
We were greeted by the boss of the clan (who thanked us for coming to visit the village) and invited us to wait for the women coming from inside the kraal. It was an amazing welcome! Maasai women sang in front of us while wearing beautiful bangles and strings of coloured beads around their necks. Giada was especially pleased about the chance of doing some jewellery shopping at the village!
We had fun (and learned a lot) trying to light a fire in less than three minutes – using just two sticks of wood and elephant dung. Amazing! I remember trying this in Italy, but of course, without the elephant dung! And then came the ‘jumping dance’. I was invited to participate in it and lifted from the ground and jumped so high that it was impossible to take a good photo of my superb athleticism! Jokes aside, it was a privilege assisting with the adumu – a dance usually performed during the coming-of-age ceremony where adult boys are initiated into warrior men.
We also visited a Maasai hut, which was very small and had only three rooms – the entrance, a shelter for some animals, and the main room. It wasn’t even high enough to stand upright! A tiny hole in the roof let a little light into the hut, but we were told its main purpose was to let the smoke from the smouldering fire – used for cooking and warmth – escape. Exiting the hut, we had to wear sunglasses to protect our eyes from the contrasting glare!
Our visit was almost over, and we were about to leave when Giada grabbed my arm and turned me back towards the assortment of fantastic Maasai jewellery and other items that were proudly displayed for sale. How could I have forgotten?! Now was the time to buy some really special souvenirs!”
Find out about the Maasai Mara for your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.
SATAO 2 is dead, and another of the last tuskers left in Africa has been poached, leaving only 6 of these giants in the Tsavo Conservation Area in southern Kenya. This is a devastating blow to elephant conservation and super tusker genes.
SATAO 2 was named after SATAO, the iconic giant who was poached in 2014 and was one of the largest tuskers left on Earth. A ‘tusker’ is an elephant whose tusks each weigh more than 100 lbs / 45,45kg. The tusks of Satao 2 weighed 51kg and 50.5kg.
Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) rangers discovered the gruesome kill site before the poachers had the time to remove the tusks. Although not totally certain, indications are that a poison arrow killed SATAO 2. In subsequent investigations, two people have been apprehended and weapons seized. KWS continues to work hard to rid Tsavo of poaching teams that roam the reserve.
The massive 44,000 km² Tsavo Conservation Area (twice the size of South Africa’s Kruger National Park) is home to the highest population of large-tusked elephants in the world, with 6 ‘super tuskers’ (of approximately 25-30 in the whole of Africa) and 15 emerging tuskers (young bulls who have the genes and potential to become tuskers). There are also seven cows with tusks reaching the ground that are being monitored.
Elephant populations in the area crashed due to poaching from the highs of 45,000 in the early 1970s to fewer than 6,000 in 1989. Since then the population has recovered to 11,000 (last aerial census in 2014) due to the formation of the KWS and the international ban on ivory trade – although there has again been an increase in poaching since then. For further information see our magazine issue The Silent Giants of Tsavo.
The Tsavo Trust operates the Big Tusker Project in conjunction with KWS and focusses on aerial and ground surveillance and data capture, backed up by the KWS’ rapid reaction teams that deal with poaching incidents.
SATAO 2’s death, and the recent spike in poaching, represent a significant threat to the world’s last-remaining tuskers and Tsavo’s precious elephant population. PLEASE consider supporting the Tsavo Trust in their brave battle to keep these elephants safe from the ruthless poaching syndicates.
Tsavo Trust CEO Richard Moller would like to see one or two of the iconic Tsavo super tuskers enjoy a Presidential Security Decree, as was the case with the famous tusker called Ahmed of Marsabit National Park in Kenya in the early 1970s. If successfully repeated, this will be a momentous achievement in conservation leadership by an African president.
The combined effects of drought and poaching have reduced estimated white rhino numbers in South Africa’s Kruger National Park by 18% during the past year, according to the latest official figures. See point 4 below, for more information about this specific statistic. This amid a decline in poaching statistics generally.
South African Minister of Environmental Affairs Edna Molewa last night issued a lengthy report back on the Integrated Strategic Management of Rhino during 2016. Here then are the 10 facts from her report that we think you should be aware of. Read the entire announcement here.
1. A total of 1 054 rhinos were poached nationwide in 2016 (1 175 in 2015) – a decline of 10.3%;
2. Specifically for the Kruger National Park, a total of 662 rhino carcasses were found in 2016 (826 in 2015) – a decline of 19.85%;
3. Again for Kruger, there were a staggering 2 883 instances of poaching-related activities in 2016 (2 466 in 2015) – an increase of 16.9%. These include poaching camps, contacts, crossings, sightings, tracks and shots fired. These criminal gangs are armed to the teeth, well-funded and part of transnational syndicates who will stop at nothing to get their hands on rhino horn;
4. White rhino population estimate in Kruger is 6 649 – 7 830 (corresponding 2015 estimate was 8 365 – 9 337) – a decrease of 18%. It must be noted that there was an increase in natural deaths of white rhinos due to the unprecedented drought conditions;
5. Black rhino population estimate in Kruger is 349 – 465 (corresponding 2015 estimate was 313 – 453 – an increase of 6%. The drought effect was not as noticeable on black rhinos;
6. 46 elephants were poached in the Kruger (no 2015 figure provided);
7. 11 rhinos were internally translocated away from boundaries in the Kruger for security reasons – part of an ongoing internal translocation strategy;
8. 106 rhinos were translocated from national parks to private strongholds, and none of these were poached;
9. There are approximately 38 orphans under the care of Kruger National Park and partners and Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife;
10. 680 poachers and traffickers were arrested for rhino-related poaching offences nationally (317 in 2015). Of this number, 417 were arrested in or near the Kruger National Park. 148 firearms were seized inside the Kruger, and 6 just outside the park.
Earlier this year, South African Environmental Affairs minister Edna Molewa announced a ZERO quota for leopard hunts in 2017, a continuation of the 2016 ruling.
This after an alert by the country’s Scientific Authority that the number of leopards in the country was unknown and that trophy hunting posed a high risk to the survival of the species.
But in the latest development, Molewa has now proposed control measures relating to the trophy hunting of leopards, that will apply once the quota is reinstated. Conservation-minded people should read the summary below, to better understand the situation as regards to leopard hunting in South Africa, and to respond to the Minister (you have 30 days).
Here is a brief summary of the notice, which attempts to establish a framework for future leopard trophy hunts:
1. Most leopards are hunted by way of baiting (using a carcass to draw the leopard in), from a shooting distance of 50-80m.
2. Leopard Hunting Zones (LHZ) will be determined, based on leopard populations and hunting pressure. No individual property may be included in more than one permit application.
3. Male leopards can be accurately aged based on the dewlap size (the dewlap is the loose flap of skin on the throat).
4. Harvesting male leopards older than 7 years has the least effect on population stability because at that age they will have held their territory for long enough to allow one litter to grow to independence. Accordingly, only male leopards that are 7 years or older may be hunted. If this rule is broken, the relevant LHZ will receive no quota for the following year.
5. Each hunt requires a permit in the name of the hunting client or the local professional hunter, for each leopard to be hunted (multiple leopard hunt applications will be accepted). These permits must be applied for before September, for hunts taking place in the following year.
6. The professional hunter accompanying the client must pass a once-off ‘leopard hunting examination’. Bizarrely this website permits an unlimited number of practise exams, before the official exam is taken online. Professional hunters that can provide evidence that they have undergone approved training in the determination of a leopard’s age do not need to pass the exam.
7. Each leopard trophy must be inspected within 24 hours of the hunt by an environmental management inspector of the relevant permit-issuing authority, and DNA samples taken.
8. If any hunt contributes to the destabilisation of the relevant leopard population, appropriate action will be taken against the professional hunter to curtail their leopard hunts and/or institute criminal proceedings.
Interested parties have 30 days from 8 February 2017 to make representations or to object in writing, to Ms Makganthe Maleka mamaleka@environment.gov.za and +27 (0)12 399 8865
Download your copy of the relevant Government Gazette notice (the leopard-related content is after the rhino-related content)
As our guide brought the open game vehicle coasting to a halt, the only sound was of waves breaking gently on the sand. That morning, Sodwana Bay had been clamorous with tractors and trailers, speedboats and scuba divers. But now, late at night, the beach was utterly empty. And out there, somewhere, an ancient and awe-inspiring story was unfolding.
You see, as well as being one of the world’s top dive sites, Sodwana Bay in the iSimangaliso Wetland Park is also one of the very few places in southern Africa where sea turtles nest. Of the five species of turtles found in these seas, the two largest come here to lay their eggs. ISimangaliso is Africa’s last primary nesting site for leatherbacks and loggerheads.
Each year, from November to January, the giant tracks of female leatherback and loggerhead turtles emerge from the surf, looking like paths left by aquatic tanks. A couple of months later, the tiny, almost invisible trails of baby turtles scatter from holes below the dunes. Not all of them reach the sea.
It was mid-January, so we were just in time to witness both sides of this 100-million-year-old ritual. Our guide was Peter Jacobs of Ufudu Turtle Tours. He’s an honorary wildlife officer with Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife who’s passionate about protecting Sodwana Bay’s sea turtles. The tours he runs on this 10-mile stretch of beach aren’t just for entertainment. They’re a way to create a public appreciation for these magnificent creatures – and some awareness of their plight.
After Peter gave us an introductory talk about sea turtles, we drove north along the beach, below the high tide mark. The only illumination came from our dim yellow headlights, the pale glow of a gibbous moon slipping between clouds, and the rhythmic slash of the lighthouse on the hill. Unfortunately, said Peter, this was too much light. Ideally, the lighthouse would be turned off, and so would our headlights. Nothing besides the moon and stars should shine on a beach where turtles are nesting.
That’s because turtles are incredibly sensitive to light. Female turtles navigate towards the shore using the dark outline of vegetated dunes against the night sky. Hatchlings find their way to the sea by orienting themselves to its reflective glimmer. Any artificial light at a sea turtle nesting site dramatically lowers their chances of success.
And it’s not as if their odds are particularly good in the first place. Although leatherback and loggerhead turtles usually lay around 100 eggs in a nest, and dig on average five nests in a season, it’s estimated that scarcely one in a thousand hatchlings make it to maturity.
From the moment a sea turtle egg hits the damp sand of a nest, it’s under threat. Once the female turtle has dragged herself laboriously back to the ocean, the eggs are left entirely unprotected. Dogs and jackals, ants and ghost crabs, snakes, gulls, rats, cats and mongooses all adore a tasty turtle egg.
Then, once the turtle hatches, it has to push its way up through the sand and hope for a clear passage to the sea. This, however, is highly unlikely. While adult leatherbacks and loggerheads weigh hundreds of pounds and are virtually immune to natural predators, their hatchlings are just a couple of inches long and weigh less than two ounces.
Thousands of stalk-eyed ghost crabs patrol the dunes, waiting to drag the tiny turtles away. If a hatchling doesn’t reach water before daylight, it will die of dehydration or be scooped up by gulls and raptors. Even if a baby turtle successfully reaches the ocean, there’s no respite. Squid, fish, sharks and eels are all waiting to gobble it up.
Peter stopped the vehicle a short stretch along the beach. He explained that he and a group of volunteers monitor each nest they locate. A loggerhead nest nearby was due to hatch any day now. Perhaps we would be lucky enough to see it happen. We waited while he trotted up the dune with a red torch (red light doesn’t confuse turtles) and jumped out to join him when he beckoned.
“We just missed it,” said Peter, kneeling beside a hollow in the sand, around which some rubbery egg fragments lay. “They probably came out about half an hour ago. Let’s see if there are any stragglers left in the nest.” He dug carefully. “Aaah, this one hatched but didn’t make it. It might have suffocated.”
There were no live turtles in the nest, but Peter noticed several trails leading away from it towards the dunes. He suggested we fetch our torches to see if we could find any hatchlings that had been kidnapped by ghost crabs.
Holding my headlamp close to the ground to minimise its range, I followed a pair of tracks into the hollow of a dune. “Oh! I’ve found one!” The little loggerhead had turned towards my torchlight and was determinedly forging its way onwards with three flippers.
“A crab must have dragged it by its front flipper and damaged it,” said Peter when he saw it. “It’s highly unlikely that this one would have survived anyway. It’s lost in the dunes, out of sight of the sea, and it’s injured. So I’m going to allow you to help it.”
This sounded like an odd thing for Peter to say, but he told us that people’s attempts to help turtle hatchlings could often do more harm than good. Picking them up transmits bacteria they’re not equipped to fight. And carrying them to the sea instead of letting them walk means their flippers don’t get the vital exercise they need to strengthen them for swimming.
So we scooped the little loggerhead up in a handful of sand and carried it back to the nest. Then, since we were desperate to be helpful, Peter allowed us to use torches to guide it to the water.
By now, I had named the turtle Fynn. (There’s no way to tell a turtle’s sex by sight, so I’d decided he was a boy.) I growled whenever someone shone a torch, or turned on a cellphone or camera that wasn’t directly in line with his path to the sea, because, each time, no matter how faint it was, Fynn would turn towards the light, and away from the water.
So I crawled in front of him with my torch, smoothing the sand, and saying stupid things like “Come on, Fynn! You’re a champ! You can do it!” Never has 100 metres felt so far. But at last, Fynn’s first wave washed over him. His flippers waggled with what looked like delight. We clapped and cheered. Then another wave whisked him out and away.
Beyond the beach, endless dangers waited: marlin, barracuda, tiger sharks – predators too numerous to name. And then there are the human perils of plastic, pollution, poaching, fishing lines, nets and boats. Fynn has less than a one in a thousand chance of reaching adulthood. But, at least he lived long enough to swim.
Exhilarated by this remarkable encounter, I felt that the evening couldn’t possibly get any better. Although, as we enjoyed a midnight feast on the beach, I admitted that it would be nice to see a leatherback turtle too.
Leatherback turtles are the rockstars of the turtle world. They grow the longest (up to 7 feet), weigh the most (up to almost a ton), swim the fastest (up to 22 miles an hour), dive the deepest (up to 1,200 metres) and range the furthest (from Norway to New Zealand). And they do this all on a strict diet of jellyfish, which are 95 per cent water.
So it was an immense thrill, when, on our way back along the beach, Peter spotted the massive shape of a female leatherback. She’d already reached the dunes and was looking for a place to lay her eggs. We waited quietly in the dark until she started digging. Only then did Peter permit us to approach, on condition that we kept well behind her and did not use torches, cellphones or cameras.
She was a giantess, dwarfing us all. And she was beautiful. Her soft, leathery carapace was deep blue-black splotched with white. It looked as though she had mapped the galaxies. Her dappled flippers and neck shaded down to shell-like pink. The salt glands above her large, dark eyes made it seem as though she was shedding soulful tears, and her breath hissed sharply with the effort of digging.
Patiently, methodically, meticulously, the leatherback’s rear flippers scooped and slapped the sand aside. Even though the tide was rising and our time was running out, we were mesmerised. At last, the nest was as deep as the turtle could make it and her eggs, looking precisely like ping pong balls, started to drop into it.
With luck, in a few weeks, most of those eggs would hatch. Dozens of miniature leatherback turtles would toddle towards the starlit sea. And then, perhaps, many years later, one of her offspring would emerge again on this beach – in almost the same spot – to repeat this mysterious cycle of life.
Ufudu Turtle Tours conduct turtle tours in Sodwana Bay from November to May. Tours are around low tide times in the evenings or late at night and last around four hours.
With coral reefs that boast two-thirds of the species diversity of the Great Barrier Reef in an area a tenth of the size, scuba diving in Sodwana Bay is not to be missed. Coral Divers is a PADI 5 star Gold Palm IDC Centre, offering every level of dive instruction.
Even if you’ve never scuba dived before, they’ll have you safely under the sea within a day. In just three dives, I was lucky enough to see ragged-toothed sharks, green turtles, eagle rays, moray eels and hundreds of species of fish and corals.
The Fig Forest guided walking trail in uMkhuze offers birders the chance to spot the incredibly rare Pel’s fishing owl. We weren’t in luck that day, but we did see squadrons of trumpeter hornbills, thousands of butterflies, and, of course, spectacular sycamore figs.
On a night game drive in the Eastern Shores section of iSimangaliso with SHAKAbarker Tours, we learned how to spot chameleons in the dark, and saw plenty of larger animals, including elephants, kudu, buffalo and hippopotamus.
Alison Westwood is a South African travel writer based in Cape Town. She’s written and photographed for magazines, travel websites and travel guides, and has recently co-authored a book about Secret Cape Town.
Alison has interviewed some of Africa’s most interesting travellers as well as investigating all sorts of travel-related issues, from elephant culling to carbon-offsets. In addition to travelling, Alison loves to hike. She blogs about getting lost in the mountains on 52 Cape Town Hikes.
The Tikki Hywood Trust is an organisation that focuses on the conservation of lesser-known endangered animals. Their flagship species – pangolins – has found its way into mainstream media as the most trafficked animal in the world.
What is the Tikki Hywood Trust?
The Trust is a wildlife-based Non-Governmental Organization (NGO) whose focus is on generating awareness based on the legislation that governs conservation practices. Founder Lisa Hywood wanted to do something that honoured the memory of her father who inspired a love of the wild and an ability to get results. It is this ethos and the determination to preserve the heritage that is our natural world, which drives the Trusts’ work with pangolins.
“We are not a zoo in any way. We are not open to the public. We do not have a volunteer program” – Tikki Hywood Trust
Lisa is adamant that, “conservation is not just cute and cuddly”. While her childhood passion and first love are the animals that she fights so hard to protect, she maintains an expansive view of conservation that reaches over and beyond the animals. “Sitting with members of different departments, developing strategies, strengthening wildlife protection, challenging legislation which protects wildlife and training different groups of people, officials stake holders… this is all part of conservation. That is the reality of conservation,” she says.
“We always wanted to be able to get these pangolins back into their wild” – Tikki Hywood Trust
In the early days…
What most people don’t know about the Tikki Hywood Trust is that the animal that launched them was the elephant. In 1994, due to the drought in Zimbabwe, the Trust was involved with the first translocation of 40 bull elephants. It was an experience that made a lasting impression on Lisa.
What is more remarkable, however, are the parallels she draws between the two species. “With elephants,” she begins “we relate to them because we can see the similarities between ourselves and them. But I can honestly say that pangolins, even though they are incredibly different, have intelligence that I don’t even think we have begun to understand.”
The lack of knowledge and understanding of the pangolin inspired so much of the Trusts’ work with pangolins. In 1994, Lisa received her first pangolin in what she describes vividly as a “foul-smelling sack” that contained a “heavy lump”. Not knowing what to do, Lisa began walking with the pangolin. Her name was Negomo and it was this intensive interaction, observation and dedication to her that enabled the Trust to help pangolins around the world.
“The government of Zimbabwe, through the judiciary have sent a very strong message to wildlife criminals. We now need countries in Africa and destination countries in Asia to follow suit if we have a hope of winning this war” – Tikki Hywood Trust
Awareness and the importance of legisation
The Tikki Hywood Trust’s approach is based on conservation, education and legislation. Lisa says that in Zimbabwe, the key species in terms of legislation is the pangolin, “when we do change legislation we don’t just change it for the pangolin. We change it for the A-Z of all species”. It is through the work that the Tikki Hywood Trust has done that legislation for wildlife has been changed and Lisa says that the challenge is to get stakeholders to focus on and to understand the laws pertaining to wildlife and prosecution within their own countries.
Many stakeholders, from conservation officials to police and the judiciary are unaware of the law. As a result of this many poachers simply fall through the cracks before they even get to court. The onus, therefore, falls on educating the various stakeholders and addressing legal loopholes that are outdated. “Don’t be afraid to address the law. If it is not working then we must address it because it is the law and the law is there to act as a deterrent,” says Lisa.
“It is only when the law acts as a deterrent that we are having a positive effect” – Tikki Hywood Trust
As an example, South Africa has the strongest legislation pertaining to pangolin protection in the world. Illegal possession of a pangolin can result in a fine of US$694,000 and ten years in jail. Despite this hefty punishment, there have been no convictions for pangolin poaching. The result, Lisa believes, of a lack of awareness from law enforcement and judiciary. It indicates a disconnection between the legislation and what is happening on the ground.
In Zimbabwe, the punishment is 9 years on the first offence, 11 years on the second offence and a US$5,000 fine. In 2015 forty-seven poachers were convicted to 9 years in jail. For people who are trying to provide for their families, this is a hefty price to pay and so acts as a real deterrent. Lisa maintains that “education is key across the board”. In 2016 alone, the Trust did 5 workshops with the judiciary, stakeholders, police and personnel that are involved from point of arrest to prosecution. In this way, through education, the Tikki Hywood Trust affects positive change.
“What is important to understand is that the demand is coming from Asia” – Tikki Hywood Trust
Trust and collaboration
In a very real way, the Tikki Hywood Trust is forging connections across different social spectrums. In December of 2016, Lisa flew to London for the launch of the Patrick Mavros collection of pangolin jewellery; a collection that was three years in the making. It was through this collaboration that Adrian Steirn was invited to document the Trust’s work. The series of images “The Pangolin Men” was exhibited alongside the jewellery at the launch. While 10% of the proceeds go towards pangolin conservation, more importantly, the marriage of the different mediums got everyone talking about pangolins!
In a way that transcends the usual conservation models, the Tikki Hywood Trust, through these collaborations, is spreading the word and generating both interest and awareness. As Lisa says, it is not about the individual, “you have to join at the hands and walk together.”
“Where and how we can we do the best we can” – Tikki Hywood Trust
And the future?
The scary thing for Lisa is that the Tikki Hywood Trust has expanded on its own. As an entity, it has grown because the policies have had an impact on the ground and this is what makes a real difference to wildlife. “One day,” says Lisa, “I am not going to be here and I want to know that the work we have done will continue, and will continue to have an impact in a positive way”.
The Tikki Hywood Trust has the potential to continue this work because it is a multifaceted team that has developed over 22 years. It is not just people that are linked directly to the Trust but groups of people, from the police to the magistrates to the public prosecutor, Zimbabweans who want a heritage for tomorrow. “We have all come together, shared the passion and the drive and the determination,” says Lisa, and what she finds incredibly encouraging is that the “strength that we have presented to one another is what creates and achieves the results at the end of the day.”
“This is a silent war and we don’t know how many tons are getting to the end-user and how many there are. The same goes for ivory, for every bust how many get passed?” – Tikki Hywood Trust
The Tikki Hywood Trust is leading by example. “Utilizing conservation and education as stepping stones towards a future where humans live in harmony with wildlife”. It is organisations like this that show us that wildlife touches everybody and that no matter who you are or where you live you can take responsibility for the world that you live in.
On Monday, three white rhino orphans were peacefully released into their new home within the iSimangaliso Wetland Park.
Survivors of mothers who were poached for their horns in various other Kwa-Zulu Natal game reserves, the male and two females are around five years old and have formed a close bond while being cared by dedicated Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife staff.
According to iSimangaliso CEO Andrew Zaloumis, “We are very pleased that we can offer these three orphans a new home and brighter future. As a Park undertaking major ecosystems restoration, iSimangaliso offers an ideal habitat for them. The reintroduction of historically occurring species is a critical part of this. Despite the severe drought in KZN, there are parts of iSimangaliso that have received decent rainfall, providing good grass, water and a softer, friendlier refuge for the orphans. iSimangaliso has a long-term conservation partnership with Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife, which is doing an excellent job rehabilitating rhino orphans. We thank them and the Peace Parks organisation – which funded the costs of this relocation – for making this possible.”
The iSimangaliso Wetland Park World Heritage Site has undergone an extensive rewilding programme over the past 15 years, and the ongoing rehabilitation of the habitat has enabled the reintroduction of all historically occurring species into the Park – lion, wild dog, cheetah, oribi, tsessebe, buffalo, elephant, giraffe, black and white rhino – with the exception of the eland. The drought placed a hold on the last of these planned relocations, but eland are now being sourced for introduction given improved conditions. This last historic step will complete the process.
Says Zaloumis, “The restocking, management and monitoring of many of our rare and endangered species is primarily supported by participants in our Eco-Series events – like the iSimangaliso MTB 4 Day bike ride in August each year. This ‘safari from the saddle’ is the largest contributor to the Parks’ Rare and Endangered Species Fund.
These events enable visitors to engage with and discover iSimangaliso in unique ways while making a tangible difference to species conservation. Runners, riders, divers and adventurers are invited to explore the options to support conservation of rare and endangered species by participating in one of our superb annual events.”
In the forests of northern Madagascar, scientists have discovered a new species of dwarf lemur. Written by: Shreya Dasgupta for Mongabay
The newly described Ankarana or Sheth’s dwarf lemur is tiny, weighing just over 100 grams. Its body is only about 16 to 17 centimetres long, with an additional 16 centimetres long tail, making it one of the smallest lemurs in its genus Cheirogaleus.
The newly described Ankarana dwarf lemur. Photos taken at Ankarana Special Reserve by Richard Randriamampionona. Photo courtesy of Cynthia L. Frasier et al, in Primate Conservation, 2016
The lemur has a grey body and a white underbelly, and its tiny hands and feet are lightly colored, the researchers report in a recent study published in the journal Primate Conservation.
The researchers have named the new dwarf lemur Cheirogaleus shethi after Brian Sheth, the Chair of the Board of the NGO Global Wildlife Conservation.
“Brian is deeply committed to biodiversity conservation worldwide, and is a leading philanthropist for species and ecosystem conservation,” the authors write in the paper. “He has supported many projects in Madagascar, including research and the establishment and management of nature reserves. His passion and drive to help save the diversity of life on our planet has been an inspiration to all around him.”
The lemur was first identified in 2014, but researchers have only just confirmed it as a distinct species by analyzing its DNA. The new lemur is separated from other species of dwarf lemurs both genetically, and geographically, the authors say.
So far, the Ankarana or Sheth’s dwarf lemur is known only from northern Madagascar, along the forest corridor from Ankarana Special Reserve east to the Analamerana Special Reserve, down to the Bekaraoka forest in the Loky-Manambato Protected Area. Much of this corridor lies within Madagascar’s system of protected areas, the researchers say, and effective management of the protected areas is essential to maintaining connectivity between different populations of the dwarf lemur.
Scientists are yet to determine its population and conservation status.
“Additional fieldwork is necessary to establish baseline data on population density and the extent of the range to determine to which IUCN Red List category this species belongs,” the authors write.
The researchers add that like the Sheth’s dwarf lemur, several other dwarf lemurs likely remain to be described.
In a somewhat bewildering announcement today, South African Environmental Affairs Minister Edna Molewa has declared that she plans to permit the trade in rhino horn domestically and, in what looks like a loophole big enough to drive a tractor through, the export internationally of horn for ‘personal purposes’. This after years of repeated attempts by her in court to resist applications by local rhino farmers to trade horn on the domestic market.
Anyone wanting to take advantage of the proposed legislation will need to acquire the necessary permits, and the rhino horn has to be genetically profiled by a suitably registered scientific institution. Non-South African citizens and residents may also apply for the necessary permits, so long as their home country provides a letter stating that domestic legislation is in place to prevent the contravention of the relevant ‘provisions of CITES’.
Those wishing to export rhino horn (for ‘personal purposes’ only) are limited to two horns per person. Not long ago similarly flimsy regulations relating to trophy hunting were famously massaged by members of the trophy hunting industry and wildlife trafficking kingpin Chemlong Lemtongthai (currently residing in jail as a result), in order to illegally trade in rhino horn – by the use of Thai strippers and prostitutes posing as huntresses, each there to bag their rhino kill and export the horn as a ‘trophy’, again for ‘personal’ purposes.
Anybody in contravention of the proposed legislation will be fined up to R5 million or sent to jail for up to 5 years, or both. Repeat offenders will receive double those punishments.
The focus in this proposed legislation on permits to control this extremely lucrative industry could be a concern for informed conservationists – in a country that has a notoriously bad implementation of permit requirements and rampant and rising fraud and corruption amongst government officials.
Interested parties have 30 days to make representations or to object, to Ms Magdel Boshoff at MBoshoff@environment.gov.za
Free-roaming wildlife populations are crashing in many areas, and natural habitat is being destroyed at an alarming rate. There is a conservation war going on, and the other side is winning hands down – why is that?
For the sake of simplicity, I refer to the two sides in this war as the ‘Exploiters’ and the ‘Protectors’. I do generalise enormously, please bear with me.
The Exploiters have money, lots of it. They also have focus and the determination to do whatever it takes to achieve their goals – they will ruin entire ecosystems and communities in pursuit of a specific hardwood or mineral and kill animals in the most barbaric way to extract specific body parts. They will threaten, terrify and kill people and bribe whoever it takes. They research, plan and execute their extraction strategies with military precision and their leaders live in financial and legal twilight zones, protected by a ring of violence, corruption and morally bankrupt government officials, bankers, accountants and lawyers. They have hoovered up vast swathes of Earth’s bounty and they will continue to do so until there is nothing left.
Some of them live amongst you, although you may not recognise them in this light. Perhaps they are not involved in poaching (as you define it), or other obvious illegal exploitations, and so you don’t see them as exploiters. Perhaps they wear suits, and work in respected companies and governments. Extraction industries such as mining, commercial fishing, hardwood logging and fossil fuel energy provide products that humans need, but many of them do so at massive cost to the environment – and leave taxpayers and rural communities to carry the cost. Great business model – bank the revenue and leave others to pay the bills.
The Protectors, on the other hand, are largely a ragtag, passionate bunch of do-gooders (myself included) all beavering away in various ways, driven by the strong belief that somehow, sometime, things will change.
Protectors are ALWAYS under-resourced. Try securing funding from banks, investment companies and the wealthy elite to save a species or wetland. On the other hand, go to the same places to fund a diamond mine or oil refinery – no problem. Why is that? In solving this riddle, perhaps you will come to better understand why we are in this mess and why the Exploiters are winning. Hands down.
Protectors often spend a good deal of time, energy and money passionately fighting each other in a glorious orgy of personal agendas. Social media has ramped up this phenomenon, providing a fertile breeding ground for Protectors to shout the odds, bicker and jockey for attention. Amongst the many committed and effective activists out there are a growing number of self-proclaimed online activists, some of whom extract precious donations to fund their lifestyles, many of whom have no clear strategy other than to pay their bills and feed their egos. At best these warriors preach to their close circle of disciples, at worst they confuse Joe Public with their emotional outbursts, and desensitize good people about the real conservation issues.
Some Protectors have organised themselves into groups and institutions – WWF, Conservation International and Greenpeace for example. Many of these do fine jobs, many on limited budgets, and are staffed by outstanding people – others have become bloated bureaucracies with high overheads. And again, these wildlife warriors fight tooth and nail for attention and funding, to feed personal careers and pay the overheads. And then there is CITES. For some reason, many Protectors don’t realise that CITES is an agreement between governments, politicians and businessmen about how much of nature can be consumed without completely destroying it. In other words, CITES represents the Exploiters, not the Protectors.
I could go on and on trying to summarise the chaotic world that is nature conservation. But I won’t. The industry is too wrapped up in personal agendas, lifestyle activists and destructive territorialism to ever be understood fully.
And therein lies the problem – Protectors operate in an underfunded environment with no industry cohesion or business model to speak of, driven largely by passion and dogged by infighting and personal agendas. Compare that to the focussed, ruthless Exploiter business model. In my experience, ruthless strategy trumps misguided passion hands down. And while Protectors run in circles, the Exploiters continue the massacre – all the time operating in the shadows, perfecting their extraction techniques and hoovering up the spoils.
As if finding the Cape parrot – Africa’s rarest – is not enough of a challenge, my wife and I went about this daunting task accompanied by our 20-month-old toddler!
Renate and I always try to fit in a bit of quality time together before heading to the coast for the greater family Christmas obligations. This year we decided on a 4-night stay in Magoebaskloof, to find said rarest parrot and do some serious birding (avec our bundle of joy and mischief).
Our birding mission for the trip was to get photos of some forest specials and to spend time with South Africa’s only endemic parrot – and to get photos of it in the process!
Cape parrots (Poicephalus robustus) are threatened by a cocktail of threats including illegal capture, disease and low breeding success due to the large scale destruction of their mist-belt forest homes (they depend on yellowwood trees for nesting sites and food). So yes, they are seriously special – and being a forest bird, really tough to get good views of.
We stayed at Kuhestan Organic Farm, a perfectly located farm if you are into birding.
After arrival, we set out from the farm to explore the immediate surroundings. The going was slow…really slow! Our daughter wanted to play with every stick, rock, creepy-crawly or whatever she could find – we did about 300m in more than an hour and didn’t even get into the forest patch! Renate and I looked at each other with large eyes – how are we going to do this?? We heard a narina trogon and a buff-spotted flufftail calling tantalisingly from the forest patch, but we couldn’t get that far. But at least our daughter had some fun!
The next morning, I headed for the forest with Paul (a bird guide from the area). My tactic was to go with a guide who would show me the productive sites, that would give me a better feel for the area, and then during the next three days bird these areas with my wife and daughter.
Paul and I enjoyed awesome views of narina trogon, African emerald cuckoo, orange ground-thrush (although high up in a tree), yellow-streaked greenbull, black-fronted bushshrike, olive woodpecker, Barratt’s warbler and the highlight of the morning – awesome views of a buff-spotted flufftail! I messed up the photo though, but was really happy with an excellent view of the bird!
We also visited the beautiful Debegeni waterfalls, where we picked up a rarity/ palearctic vagrant, the grey wagtail! It was really skittish, but luckily I was able to get a decent photo.
In the next few days we birded the area and I was able to get photographs of most of the forest specials, except the Cape parrot – although we did glimpse a few brief fly-bys…
We also visited Kurisa Moya Nature Lodge, one of our favourite forest birding destinations, and added photos of forest canary, green twinspot, swee waxbill and African firefinch to our list.
We really enjoyed our stay at Kuhestan Organic Farm. The owners provided us with fresh bread and milk daily, as well as a freshly harvested mixture of berries, which our daughter loved! The gardens and lawns are exquisite, and the cottages really comfortable. It must be one of the best located farms if you are into birding! Highly recommended.
But still, a decent Cape parrot sighting evaded us, and we were already in the post-lunch session of our last day…
Our luck changed on the last afternoon! It is crazy how often it happens that on the last stretch you get your target! A mere 10 minutes’ drive from Kuhestan we came across a huge flock of more than 40 Cape parrots – feeding in the Mexican cherry trees alongside the main road! We had checked out this area during the previous 3 days, but without luck – and now they are here, giving us a show! We spent the next hour or so with the flock, they got used to our presence and moved lower down in the trees, which of course meant better photos! Such a privilege spending time with Cape parrots – a moment we will never forget.
We did well, especially our little daughter. She enjoyed the forest a lot, and absolutely loved the Cape parrots – I think probably because it was the only forest bird she actually saw!
Magoebaskloof is on your way if you are visiting central Kruger National Park or the Lowveld from Johannesburg, so make sure to spend some time there and explore these wonderful forests and waterfalls.
The breeding of wildlife to produce unusually coloured animals, in the hope that hunters would pay a lot more to shoot them, has fallen flat in a spectacular manner — with the practice being widely condemned. Written by: Stafford Thomas for Financial Mail
If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. The old adage has become a painful reality for speculators who stampeded into the colour-variant game sector.
Luring them were rocketing prices being paid at game auctions for colour variants bred in captivity and not found in the wild. Described as “unnatural freaks” by Peter Flack, one of South Africa’s foremost game experts, colour variants include black impala, white impala, gold wildebeest, white gemsbok and king wildebeest.
“Buyers grabbed anything they could at auctions,” says Johan Vorster, a Vleissentraal game auctioneer.
The idea was that hunters would pay more to shoot unusually coloured trophy animals. But what the buyers were getting into had all the makings of a classic pyramid scheme: early entrants make big money. Latecomers lose their boots.
This is exactly how it played out. By early 2016 prices of colour variants were already sliding. They went on to collapse.
Average auction prices supplied by Game & Hunt of colour variants tell a sad tale. Among extreme examples, the average price paid for white impala in 2014 was R8.2m. In 2016 the average was R48,333.
Other colour-variant prices have suffered a similar fate. Of black impalas, which sold at an average of R384,964 in 2014, SA-based CIC executive Gerhard Damm says: “I doubt you will get more than R10,000 for a black impala ram.”
With colour-variant animals, a supply was created for which there is no real demand where it counts most — from hunters, says Lizanne Nel, conservation manager at the 45,000-member SA Hunters & Game Conservation Society (SA Hunters).
It is not only because of their unnatural nature that hunters shun colour variants.
“Most hunters want a responsible hunt,” says Nel. “You can’t have it when an animal is bred in captivity.”
Virtually all leading foreign hunting organisations have adopted this stance. Among them is the influential US-based Boone & Crockett Club, which has voiced strong opposition to the hunting of bred animals.
Nel believes the collapse in colour-variant animal prices is primarily thanks to advocacy work done by SA Hunters and other hunting and conservation bodies. Not all industry players fully agree.
Among them is game breeder Jacques Malan. He concedes “badmouthing by hunters” has done a lot of damage, but argues the biggest problem has been the devastating drought.
“There was no natural vegetation,” says Malan. “Breeders faced the huge expense of buying fodder.”
“The drought had a big impact,” says Vorster. “Some breeders had to sell at any price.”
Malan believes recent good rains will restore the colour-variant market’s fortunes. “The natural vegetation is back. We will see a lot of confidence return.”
Nel disagrees. The drought, she says, may have contributed to the collapse but the real damage has been done by the realisation that there is no viable market for colour variants.
“The colour-variant game is over,” says Flack. Damm agrees.
But Damm, Flack and Nel stress that the colour-variant controversy has dealt SA’s game industry another big reputational blow. It follows the huge damage done by the “canned lion” hunting debacle.
Canned lion hunting involves releasing captive-bred lion into small enclosures where they are shot with ease by “hunters”. It is a practice of which Flack has said: “It is not hunting, it is slaughter.”
The world agrees. The US has banned the import of lion trophies from SA.
The captive breeding of buffalo for hunting
There is another area of concern for conservationists: captive breeding of buffalo with exceptional horn-spread widths. Huge prices are paid for these animals. In September a new record for a single animal was set when a buffalo bull was sold for R168m. Four years earlier the record was R26m.
Buffalo ranchers claim they are breeding back top genetics ruined by reckless hunting in the past. Nel is not buying it.
“The principles are the same as those applying to colour variants,” says Nel. “Animals are dependent on humans. You can’t hunt them and then say it was a fair hunt.”
“You would think SA’s game industry is on a mission to self-destruct,” says Damm. Foreign hunter numbers coming to SA underscore his concern.
In 2014, the latest year for which data is available, 7,638 foreign hunters came to SA, less than half the best-yet figures of 16,394 in 2006.
The big winner is Namibia, a country free of canned hunting and colour variants.
“Foreign-hunter numbers to Namibia grew from 6,300 in 2007 to 23,768 in 2014,” says Flack
South Africa is about to permit the export of lion bones to produce fake tiger wine but has given the public almost no time to object. The permit will allow an annual export of 800 skeletons to Asia. Written by: Don Pinnock
The Department of Environmental Affairs made the decision without public consultation but was forced to hold a stakeholder meeting to comply with CITES quota conditions. This was clearly planned as a once-off meeting, but delegates managed to get the department to open a two-week window for public comment, ending on Thursday [February 2].
The meeting, publically announced on 25 January leaves virtually no time for popular comment or intervention, so the proposal will probably go ahead. The DEA also plans to appoint a research group to monitor the export of lion bones.
“The decision is misguided and shameful,” said Audrey Delsink, Africa’s director of the Humane Society International. “Breeding captive lions is not only cruel and contrary to the global shift against captive wildlife, but is a potential threat to wild lions.”
According to Pippa Hankinson, the producer of the film Blood Lions, the quota appears to lack the requisite scientific basis and was arrived at without consideration of proper welfare or conservation protocols. There was no formal document to support how the quota of 800 skeletons was arrived at or how it would be enforced.
“South Africa [is showing] complete disregard for the overwhelming response by key global conservation leaders calling for the termination of captive lion breeding. In addition, this shocking industry is already adversely affecting Brand South Africa.”
The move is tacit support for the canned lion industry presently hurting from a US ban on the importation of lion trophies from South Africa where captive-bred lions are something of a black hole.
The government’s 2015 Biodiversity Management Plan mentions captive-bred only in passing, saying: “there is intense controversy over the merits and ethics of the captive breeding and subsequent release for hunting of captive-bred lions, although it remains legal to do so.” A CITES report notes that trade is fine, “if the relevant authorities are satisfied that certain conditions are met, above all that trade will not be detrimental to the survival of the species in the wild.”
In dealing merely with the impact of captive-bred lions on wild breeding stock, these reports ignore ethical and welfare issues and relegate lions to merely domestic farming stock. The permitting of the export of 800 lion carcases simply underlines this perspective.
According to several sources, there is a growing demand in Chinese markets for donkey pelts, and some rural areas in Africa are reportedly being stripped of free-roaming donkeys to feed the demand.
Some might view the removal of donkeys as a good thing, because donkeys are not indigenous and can cause damage to vegetation, especially in arid areas. But in fact these donkeys are most often owned by rural villagers who rely on them for transport, food and trade.
In some African countries the exporting of donkey pelts to China has led to local scarcity and driven up the price of donkeys, making them too expensive for many rural villagers. As a result, countries such as Niger and Burkina Faso have banned donkey exports, although some countries are considering formalising donkey product exports as a lucrative industry. In South Africa, the National Council of Societies for the Prevention of Cruelty against Animals (NSPCA) is investigating cases of cruelty, with donkeys being rounded up and kept in appalling circumstances, often leading to them being weak and emaciated – before being bludgeoned to death and skinned. The NSPCA’s Mpho Mokoena: “People are using a hammer to hit them. When they fall down, they don’t even wait to see if the donkey is dead and just start skinning it.”
Donkey hides are boiled to produce a gelatine that is said to have anti-ageing properties‚ used to combat insomnia, bleeding, dizziness and aid in improving blood circulation.
*The pictures featured in this post appeared on the NSCPA Facebook page and were taken at an illegal slaughter site in Sani Pass, South Africa, where 35 carcasses were reportedly recently found, and 2 people arrested.
CAPE TOWN, South Africa (19 January 2017)—A decision to allow export of 800 captive-bred lion skeletons from South Africa is coming under fire from Humane Society International and the producer of the film Blood Lions. By Blood Lions
Yesterday the South African National Biodiversity Institute, which is the scientific authority to the Department of Environmental Affairs, announced its recommendation to institute an annual export quota of 800 captive-bred lion skeletons, traded in large part for use in traditional medicine to southeast Asian countries like Laos, Vietnam and Thailand. The decision to make this recommendation was made prior to public consultation and without the appropriate scientific basis required under South Africa’s obligations under the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora. The DEA has now opened a two week comment period – ending on 2 February 2017 – to collect input on the recommended quota.
Humane Society International and Blood Lions strongly urge the DEA to establish a zero export quota, thereby suspending trade in captive-bred lion parts given the absence of scientific evidence that such trade is not detrimental to the survival of wild lions, as required for export under CITES. The captive breeding of lions for the purpose of killing them to supply the bone trade is ethically unacceptable and seriously harms South Africa’s global image.
The decision follows an ongoing controversy about South Africa’s lion breeding industry that promotes cub petting, lion walks, canned lion hunting while practising euthanasia to supply lion bone and other parts.
The South African government will permit lion skeletons to be sourced from the natural deaths of captive-bred lions and also from lions euthanized, as well as remains of lions trophy-hunted by South African and international hunters.
Audrey Delsink, executive director of the Africa office for Humane Society International, said “The Department of Environmental Affair’s decision to support the trade in lion parts is misguided and shameful. Breeding captive lions is not only cruel and goes against the global shift against captive wildlife, but South Africa’s captive-bred lion bone trade is a potential threat to wild lions. Conservation efforts must focus on protecting lions in the wild, and not prop up facilities where they are bred for slaughter and canned hunting. Unless research proves otherwise, caution must prevail and trade in these parts must be completely suspended given South Africa’s commitments under international law.”
Pippa Hankinson, the producer of Blood Lions, said “Blood Lions is deeply concerned by this announcement from the South African government. The quota appears to lack the requisite scientific basis, and there has been no apparent consideration of proper welfare or conservation protocols. South Africa has shown complete disregard for the overwhelming response by key global conservation leaders calling for the ‘termination of captive lion breeding for commercial, non-conservation purposes and the hunting of captive-bred lions and other predators’ at the IUCN World Conservation Congress in September last year. In addition, this shocking industry is already adversely affecting brand South Africa. We urge the public to call for a suspension of trade in captive lions and their bones, and to bring an end to the captive lion breeding and canned hunting industry.”
FACTS:
· The South African government estimates are that there are approximately 6,000 captive African lions in South Africa, bred for various economic purposes. However, other experts reveal the number is likely closer to 8,000.
· The recently appointed Chief Executive Officer of South African Tourism, Mr Sisa Ntshona, has spoken out against the petting of lion cubs and similar exploitative activities.
· A 2015 film titled Blood Lions exposed the true nature of the lion breeding industry in South Africa, revealing poor living conditions, false pretences under which breeders contract volunteers to care for the animals, misleading information provided to tourists about the conservation benefit of lion breeding, and lack of appropriate regulation.
· The African Lion Working Group has stated that “sport hunting of lions that occur in fenced enclosures and are not self-sustaining does not provide any demonstrated positive benefit to wild lion conservation efforts and therefore cannot be claimed to be conservation.”
· At the September 2016 IUCN World Conservation Congress, the world’s top scientists, government representatives, non-profit organizations, and experts adopted motion 009 on terminating the hunting of captive-bred lions and other predators and captive breeding for commercial, non-conservation purposes.
· In November of 2015, the majority of the members of the Professional Hunters’ Association of South Africa passed a motion that “disassociates PHASA with the captive-bred lion industry until such a time that the industry can convince PHASA and the IUCN that the practice is beneficial to lion conservation.”
Imagine the possibility of walking with pangolins. Adrian Steirn’s recent photographic series The Pangolin Men captures a unique and exceptional scenario of beasts and men. The images are captivating. The skin of the minders glows as they walk alongside these armour-plated, cat-size mammals. It is intriguing to wake up and discover the possibility of something that you never knew existed. I scratched a little to find out more about these images, about pangolins and the Pangolin Men.Written by Andrew Hofmeyer
Let’s not beat around the bush. This diminutive mammal is under threat of extinction before most people even know it is in danger. For pangolins, this is the reality. There are eight species of pangolin, four in Asia and another four in Africa. The appetite of the Asian black market has seen millions of these mammals butchered for their meat and their scales. While the flesh is considered a delicacy, the scales – made of keratin – are used in a powdered form to treat anything from stomach cramps to impotency.
In June 2016 a shipment of 4 tonnes of pangolin scales was seized in Hong Kong. Pause for a second to process this figure which represents a conservative estimate of 10-20% of the actual trade. One shipment from one place. Not of heavy flesh and blood wriggling animal but dry, lifeless, nail-like scales. While a live pangolin, bones and all, can weigh between 2 and 35 kgs, the dry weight in scales is a fraction of this. 4 tonnes of confiscated scales represents between 1100 and 6600 wild animals. In Pangolin numbers this drop in an ocean of illegal trafficking represents the demise of a species.
The Tikki Hywood Trust
Lisa Hywood founded the Tikki Hywood Trust in 1994 in the memory of her father who she says “looked to the future with optimism”. It is this ethos that drives the Trust’s work, an ethos says Lisa, that has not changed in over 20 years.
The Trust has a three-pronged approach, Conservation, Legislation and Education and they all have an important role to play. “It’s no good,” says Lisa “if the law enforcement officers don’t know what the penalties are or the judges aren’t aware of the sentences”. Education for the Tikki Hywood Trust means a focus on ALL stake-holders, the public (especially children) and conservation personal as well as law enforcement from police officers to judges.
In addition to this, the Trust focuses on changing legislation itself. Lisa pointed out that South Africa has the strongest legislation for pangolin trafficking. If caught in possession of a pangolin the fine in South Africa is a whopping US$ 694000 and 10 years imprisonment. However, she drove her point home by asking me if I knew how many convictions there had been? “None?” I ventured. “Exactly”. There is a massive disconnect between the laws, the judiciary, law enforcement and conservation. If all stakeholders are not informed and aware then criminals and poachers simply fall through the cracks.
In Zimbabwe, on the other hand, the approach of educating all stakeholders has yielded tangible results. “We have 9 years on first offence, 11 years on second offence and a $5000 fine. In 2015, 47 pangolin poachers were sentenced to 9 years in jail”. Magistrate Tendai Mahwe said, “This is a serious offence which is now prevalent and deterrent sentences are called for if pangolins are not to face extinction”. With sentences like this being passed, it results in a substantial deterrent for would-be poachers.
Lisa is adamant that conservation is all about awareness. Knowing about the plight of pangolins, who to contact and what to do translates directly into saving pangolin lives across the globe. “Conservation is about all of us, not just one animal. We need all the animals”. In addition to this Lisa says that for her, conservation is a team effort. Enter the Pangolin Men and Adrian Steirn.
“It was a moment where time stood still,” says Lisa Hywood recalling her first encounter with a trafficked pangolin. “I received this foul-smelling sack and inside was this heavy lump. When I opened it there was this one eye looking at me. It was the saddest most enduring eye that I have ever experienced. In that one look, I felt that she understood me and I had no idea about her”.
This particular pangolin, a female who Lisa called Negomo, survived the early days of the Trust’s ignorance. Through working with her, Lisa realised that pangolins, like baby elephants, needed specialised one-on-one care and attention to successfully rehabilitate them and return them to the wild. “I would spend many many hours just foraging and walking and looking and watching and studying these animals to see if I could get an inner idea as to what we were missing, why were these animals so difficult to keep in captivity”. Lisa realised fairly quickly that their best chance of recovery and survival meant being in as natural an environment as possible.
“A pangolin will forage from anywhere between 3 to 4 plus hours,” she says “so it is quite a labour-intensive job”. Rescued pangolins are often extremely compromised, suffering from stress, malnutrition and dehydration. The pangolin minder accompanies the pangolin into the bush so that they can forage without being disturbed. A relationship naturally develops between the minders and the pangolins.
The Pangolin Men are employed by the Tikki Hywood Trust who screen and vet candidates. “It is a process that is fairly lengthy and stringent and we look for specific qualities in each individual”. Individuals have then trained in all things pangolin. Every day the pangolins are weighed, observations are recorded, the temperature, weather conditions and the movement of the pangolins. Lisa, resident zoologist Ellen Connelly and local and international vets are co-authoring papers about pangolins. The data collected is being used to make a real contribution to our knowledge and understanding of pangolin behaviour.
The work that the Pangolin Men do is fundamental to the lives of these animals. It is the relationship between these men and the pangolins that is so captivating. Today there are 20 of these Pangolin Men.
Collaboration is Key
For the last three years, the Tikki Hywood Trust has been working with Patrick Mavros Jewellers to create a range of pangolin-inspired jewellery. Through this collaboration, Adrian Steirn was invited to capture the images of these men as they walked with the pangolins.
Having a natural affinity with animals naturally lead Adrian to wildlife photography and today he travels around the world capturing rarely seen and exotic animals. On shooting the Pangolin Men Adrian says “It was amazing. I’ve been shooting in the bush for many years and I have never seen a pangolin in the wild. To go in there and have an opportunity to get access to photograph those men and what they do every single day was truly something that I cherished”.
“I always wanted to tell stories that create positive change” says Adrian. To translate the world into a single image that conveys at a glance the importance of the subject matter is a huge challenge. “I wanted to ensure that people sat up and looked and watched and understood and incentivise people who may not be very green or conservation focussed to be enthralled by the beauty of the natural world and I guess, let art pull them into the space where they cared for the first time”.
The result is the series of photographs called the Pangolin Men which appeared on Steirn’s project “Beautiful News”. The photos were launched in London alongside the Patrick Mavros Jewellery collection and a percentage of proceeds from both collections will go directly to the Tikki Hywood Trust.
Looking to the Future with Optimism
Despite working with these creatures for over twenty years, Lisa says that the first time they made it into the news was in 2015 and 2016. The focus is always on the flagship species. While this is important and needed it also leaves a whole host of animals in the blind-spot of mainstream media. The pangolin is one of these casualties and bears the unfortunate title of the most trafficked animal in the world.
In October of 2016 at the CITES convention in Johannesburg, all eight pangolin species were bumped up into Appendix 1, meaning that all trade in the animals is prohibited by international law. I asked Lisa Hywood if she was pleased about this and was rather surprised and sobered at her response. “The fact that we are only doing this now means that we have already failed them”.
It is not all doom and gloom though and she continued to say that, as an African, she was incredibly proud to see the African delegates take responsibility and act unanimously in favour of protecting these animals. When I asked her what people in cities, at home, in other countries – people who are disconnected from the ‘wild’ in their day to day lives – can do to contribute towards the process of conservation, she replied without hesitation:
“wildlife touches each and every one of us, take responsibility”
This is a trip report of our five-night stay in the Kruger National Park, which included the three-night Mphongolo Backpack Trail – a trail that not only takes you into the largest wilderness area in the Kruger but also takes your soul to a deeper level than you could ever have imagined.
Our travelling group, consisting of family and friends, left Pretoria at 3 am on the day of travel. The Kruger is less than five hours drive from Gauteng, but when you are dealing with a group of people with such an intense obsession for the bush and an uncontrollable itch to get there, this is quite a late start.
We planned to enter the park at Orpen gate and take the Timbavati River road to spend the night camping at Letaba Rest Camp. At this stage, we all had ‘leopard fever’, and we thought that taking this route would maximise our chances of seeing our favourite feline creatures. Unfortunately, we didn’t see any leopards, but we did have a magnificent sighting of the notorious honey badger.
The next morning we left Letaba camp at sunrise and headed north towards Shingwedzi Rest Camp, where we met our excellent guides, Brenden and André, for the start of the Mphongolo Backpack Trail. They gave us a short talk on what to expect on this unique trail, whereafter we did some last-minute backpack checks, packed the trailer and headed further north towards Sirheni Rest Camp. En route, we veered off onto a small, dusty track – and we all unanimously got the sense that the wilderness had begun…
After about 15km on this track, the driver stopped – it was time for our trail to begin. You feel a bit vulnerable and exposed when a SANParks vehicle drops you off and leaves you there alone – in the largest wilderness area in the park (all 150 000ha of it) with nothing except your backpack.
But, after a brief safety talk by our guides, we soon realised that this is different than your usual visit to a game reserve. Brenden explained the feeling well: “Normally when you visit a park, you are only observers. You look at the wildlife, but you are not part of it. With this backpacking trail, you become a participant.
You become part of the wildlife, and are exposed.” After this touching introduction, we started our walk towards the Mphongolo River, which would be our life-line for the following four days.
Harsh reality checks in the wild
Our afternoon walk took us down the desperately dry Mphongolo River – our first reality check on the trail. We found a suitable camping spot for the evening, but there was one problem – after a lot of digging for water, there was only dry sand. This was our first taste of the rampant drought that the Kruger National Park is currently experiencing.
We made a plan and emptied our water bottles into a container, and the verdict was that we should have enough water for the night and following morning. The next day, we would continue our urgent search for water. But, the relaxed evening that we had planned developed into reality check number two…
…At 3 am that night, we heard some strange and very loud noises next to our little tents. Whatever it was, it was big! At first, I first thought it was lions, or maybe elephants. Brenden even believed that it could be black rhinos fighting at one stage. As the noises got closer, we saw that it was two hippo bulls having a full-blown fight!
In reality, this could have been a life-threatening situation, but the guides handled it in a very professional manner to ensure that we all stayed safe. Scary as it was and shocked as we were, the next morning we were able to follow the blood trail – this was a serious fight, and the closest they came was four metres from our tents! We were lucky to survive. On a positive note though: if there were hippos around, there must’ve been water not too far away!
Wilderness backpacking at its best
For the following three days, we followed the course of the river in a leisurely manner, enjoying sightings of large buffalo herds and numerous old buffalo bulls. Elephant dung was everywhere, and we saw their spoor frequently too. We saw African wild dog tracks and had many more awesome, exciting sightings – we even encountered a leopard in broad daylight on one of the afternoon walks!
We learned about the trees, the elephant teeth, the porcupine dung, and how to measure the stride of an animal by looking at the tracks and everything in between. Digging for water in the river and using the dug-out ‘wells’ the elephants had created was a memorable daily event.
The birding highlight for me was a family of Grey Penduline-Tits – they weigh only six grams! I also heard the coolest plant name ever – have you heard of a “Northern fluffy-flowered Jackal-coffee”? What an incredible name!
The trail is not a strenuous one, but what it lacks in strenuousness it makes up for in serenity. One day we had brunch at a fantastic spot alongside the river, and we promptly decided to camp there for the night. That afternoon we took our walk without our backpacks.
We also enjoyed some quiet time alone. Sitting next to the river and staring down at it watching darkness creeping closer is total relaxation. It is in these quiet moments with nature when you realise what is important in life, and how we should push not to just ‘exist’ but to ‘live’! These are the opportunities for peaceful introspection that the trail offers.
What is the ultimate highlight of such a backpacking trail? For me, it was being part of the ecosystem, without a watch or cellphone, without any human evidence anywhere, no roads, no showers, nothing – and being in the presence of big game while experiencing the wilderness. There are some hair-raising and heart-pumping experiences along the way that make you feel alive – and then there is also some much needed quiet time to reflect…
On the last morning, we were greeted by our friendly SANParks guide with a pleasant surprise. A cooler box full of ice-cold beer! A Castle Lite had never tasted this good before! Cheers to the guides for an unbelievable few days!
About the author
Anton lives in Pretoria, South Africa, and works in his family’s property development and investment business. He and his wife Renate both have a passion for wildlife, with a special interest in birds.
“Turn left. Continue along the road, through a dry riverbed. When the road forks, keep to the left.” We were 371km from home, six hours into our journey, and at the bottom of page two of a three-page printout of detailed instructions describing how to get to South Luangwa National Park in Zambia.
We weren’t taking the usual route into the park. We’d decided to take a more adventurous approach, entering the park from the north, down the Muchinga Escarpment. The directions were explicit: “The road over the escarpment requires a high clearance, four-wheel drive and low range. The road is seldom used. Waiting for help if you break down might take days.”
The 450km drive took us eight hours to complete. One 12km stretch down the escarpment took an hour to cover. I spent most of that time with my foot firmly on an imaginary brake as my husband negotiated the steep and rocky descent.
The Luangwa Valley marks the end of the Great Rift Valley. The Muchinga Escarpment forms the northern and western boundary of the Luangwa Valley and South Luangwa National Park. Starting in Miombo woodland, the escarpment slopes down through Mopane woodland to the valley floor. This is covered in swathes of grassland, which ultimately become the floodplains of the Luangwa River. Most of the park is on the western banks of the Luangwa River, which is its lifeblood.
South Luangwa is probably one of the most unspoilt natural habitats remaining in Africa. Founded as a game reserve in 1938, this 9,059km² area became a national park in 1972. It has some of the highest concentrations of animals on the continent.
Home to around 60 animal species, the park supports herds of elephant and buffalo that often number into the hundreds. The Luangwa River is also home to multitudes of crocodiles and hippopotamus. There are over 400 species of bird, including 39 types of raptor and 47 migrant species.
In addition to the abundant wildlife, the changing seasons add another dimension to South Luangwa’s richness. The dry, bare winter bushveld gives way to a lush, green wonderland in the rainy summer months.
Marvellous Mfuwe
There are two main areas of South Luangwa National Park that are accessible to visitors: the Mfuwe sector and the Nsefu sector. We had the privilege of visiting both. We started near Mfuwe Gate, the main entrance to the park, which has a bridge across the Luangwa River.
This is an ideal place for less experienced safari visitors to start, as game concentrations are high. However, it’s also the busiest part of the park. At times it can get a bit frenzied, as safari vehicles jockey to get the best views at lion kills or wild dog sightings.
Our first port of call was Track & Trail River Camp, a short distance from the Mfuwe Gate. The highlights of our stay here were the two dramatic lion kills we witnessed on our evening drives. Both victims were pregnant female impalas. They must have been mere hours away from giving birth. To see the babies being eaten before they had drawn breath was a stark reminder of the savagery of the African bush.
On the second evening, my husband decided to skip the game drive. However, he didn’t miss out on the wildlife. While napping in our chalet, he was rudely awoken by a rattle of the door handle. It was a clever baboon trying to get into the room. My husband’s shout dissuaded the intruder, but he could hear it trying all the other chalet doors, in the hope of making a raid on an unsecured room.
Abandoning his nap, my husband decided to laze by the pool, which is raised about four metres above the ground. Emerging from the water after a refreshing dip, he discovered he was almost head to head with a herd of elephants.
From Mfuwe, we moved deeper into the park to the Nsefu sector. The atmosphere here is remote, quiet and slightly more exclusive. Some of the most experienced guides in the Luangwa Valley work in the Nsefu sector, and it’s probably also the most game-intensive area of the park. It’s known in particular for exceptional leopard sightings.
Lodges and camps in this part of South Luangwa are only open in the dry season, from early May to the beginning of November. Because lodges here aren’t open all year, the animals don’t have constant exposure to people. They are less accustomed to vehicles and visitors, so the game viewing feels more natural.
We took drives into the park with co-owner and safari manager Bryan Jackson, who has been guiding in Luangwa for more than 20 years. On one of them, a group of four young male lions were happy for us to park just a hair’s breadth away while we sat watching them relax in the shade.
One evening during dinner at Tafika, the first rains of the season arrived – a welcome relief from the oppressive heat. The next morning, we found strange sliding prints all around our chalet. Luangwa’s infamous sticky black cotton soil becomes exceptionally slippery when wet, and it appeared that hippos had been skating around in the mud while we slept.
On the west bank of the Luangwa River, inside South Luangwa National Park, are Shenton Safaris’ Kaingo and Mwamba camps. To save ourselves a long drive, we left our vehicle at Tafika Camp and canoed a short distance across the river. We clambered up the bank on the other side and into a waiting safari vehicle.
Derek Shenton, who created the camps, took us on a tour of three of his famous hides. The first was a permanently anchored boat in the river, facing a bank where a large colony of carmine bee-eaters have excavated their nests. We sat in the hide, watching the birds swoop over the water, darting in and out of their burrows to feed their young.
At Mwamba camp, we were concealed directly in front of a waterhole, at eye level with impalas, kudu, buffalos and warthogs as they took turns to drink. We were so close that we could see and hear drops of water falling from their mouths between sips. Guinea fowl, Lilian’s lovebirds and weavers darted between the animals.
At the third hide, we were almost close enough to touch the oxpeckers hopping along the backs of a large pod of hippos. As we sat watching the hippos and their nursery of youngsters, a family of elephants, also accompanied by several babies, came to drink just a few metres in front of us. Although they appeared oblivious to our presence, I felt that the piercing gaze of the matriarch occasionally seemed to look directly through the hide and straight into my eyes.
On drives at Kaingo, we spotted so many lions that we were in danger of becoming blasé about them. To top it all, we had a fabulous sighting of a leopard stretched out on a tree branch. When we came back to check on her later, we found her feeding on a kill she’d left concealed in the undergrowth while she slept.
We paddled back across the river from Kaingo, collected our car, and drove on to Nsefu Camp. Built in 1951, before South Luangwa had even been declared a national park, it’s situated on a picturesque bend of the Luangwa River.
This spot is perfect in two ways. Firstly, a well-positioned chair in the shade makes for a very scenic location to read, relax and look out for local wildlife. Secondly, and more importantly, the camp is ideally positioned to catch a welcome river breeze on hot days at the end of the dry season.
On one early morning walk at Nsefu, we found ourselves amongst a herd of buffalo several hundred strong. Suddenly, we heard a loud and anguished bellow.
Two buffalos had been involved in an altercation. The result was that the horn of one had been wedged into the posterior of the other, producing understandable cries of distress.
Fortunately, the horn was extracted without too much delay, and the two continued on their way – although the injured party might have been limping slightly.
On our final night at Nsefu, we watched nine wild dogs demolishing the carcass of an impala, stripping it of the meat and organs and leaving only the skin, head and skeleton behind.
Our final stop was Kafunta River Lodge. The night before we arrived, a large tree had fallen over inside the camp. We were greeted by a whole family of elephants, including a tiny baby, feasting on the fallen branches right there in the middle of the camp. These elephants are frequent visitors, and we repeatedly saw them wandering through the grounds.
The dining area at Kafunta looks out over a floodplain and a waterhole, both full of wildlife from before sunrise to well after sunset. First thing in the morning come the giraffes, followed by buffaloes, elephants, and impalas. Along with the resident hippos and plenty of birdlife, you barely need to leave the lodge to see some fantastic things.
When drilling for a borehole some years ago, Kafunta struck gold, unexpectedly tapping into a natural hot water spring. This spring now flows into a hot tub that also overlooks the waterhole. However, with temperatures in the mid-40s during our stay, we hadn’t been tempted to try it.
But, as the sun went down on our final day in South Luangwa, dark clouds gathered, and thunder rumbled promisingly. When the skies opened, and rain fell in sheets, the hot tub was the perfect place to sit. Up to our waists in warm water, with refreshing cold drops falling on our shoulders, a gin & tonic in hand, and hippos huffing and puffing below us, it was a truly magical end to an enchanting visit.
The fabulous hot tub at Kafunta River Lodge, fed by a natural hot spring and looking out over the wildlife-rich floodplain.The Robin Pope Safaris’ mobile walking safaris have long been known as the best wilderness experience of the South Luangwa. Guests spend five days walking through the north of the park.How many elephants can you spot enjoying Track & Trail River Camp?Special features of Kaingo Camp are the unique individual decks built out over the river in front of each chalet and the stunning outdoor bathtubs.The Jackal-Berry treehouse at Flatdogs Camp is built around three live African ebony trees with views across wetlands regularly visited by elephant and giraffe.Each year in November, the elephants near Mfuwe Lodge go in search of wild mangos. One particular family always takes the most direct route to the mango trees, calmly walking straight through the reception area, to the delight of staff and guests.Luambe Lodge is home to one of the largest hippo pools along the Luangwa River. During the dry season, several hundred hippos gather in front of the lodge.
For camps & lodges at the best prices and our famous ready-made safari packages, log into our app. If you do not yet have our app see the instructions below this story.
About the author
Born and raised in Sydney, Australia, before moving to Africa at the age of 21, Sarah Kingdom is a mountain guide, traveller, and mother of two. When she is not climbing, she also owns and operates a 3,000-hectare cattle ranch in central Zambia.
She guides and runs trips regularly in India, Nepal, Tibet, Russia, Turkey, Uganda, and takes travellers up Tanzania’s Mount Kilimanjaro numerous times a year.
China announces 2017 timeline for its domestic ivory ban. By WildAid
BEIJING (30 December 2016) — The end of the world’s largest ivory market was announced today by the Chinese government as it released a detailed timetable for ending its legal trade. Domestic sales will be banned by the end of 2017 with the first batch of factories and traders to close their business by 31 March 2017.
Last year, President Xi Jinping made a public commitment to phasing out the trade, which may be falling out of favour with Chinese consumers. A recent conservation group Save the Elephants survey reported that ivory prices in eight mainland Chinese cities had fallen by half in a two-year period ending December 2015. Anecdotal evidence gathered by WildAid campaigners in China indicates prices may have decreased further this year: Market inquiries in May 2016 found raw ivory prices of around $450 to $900, representing a decrease of 57% to 78% compared with a 2014 high of $2,100 per kilogram in mainland China. A ban was first proposed to the National People’s Congress by former NBA star, Yao Ming, who also led documentaries on the trade for state broadcaster CCTV in partnership with WildAid.
WildAid CEO Peter Knights said, “China’s exit from the ivory trade is the greatest single step that could be taken to reduce poaching for elephants. We thank President Xi for his leadership and congratulate the State Forestry Administration for this timely plan. We will continue to support their efforts through education and persuading consumers not to buy ivory.”
With China’s announcement, international attention is now shifting to Japan, which voted against all CITES proposals to protect elephants and has insisted its trade is not tainted by illegal ivory. However, a recent report by the Environmental Investigation Agency (EIA) found that the nation’s elephant tusk registration system widely allows for poached tusks smuggled from Africa to be sold legally in the domestic market.
“Japan is the last man standing as a major legal destination for ivory.” Knights said. “If Japan joined the global community on this we could consign the abuses of the ivory trade to history.”
The international commercial ivory trade was banned in 1989, following a decade of out-of-control poaching that decimated African elephant populations from 1.3 million in 1979 to an estimated 609,000 by the late 1980s. As a result of the ban, poaching decreased significantly and ivory prices plummeted. But a “one-off” sale of ivory in 2008 and the legal domestic trade in places such as Hong Kong, China, Thailand, Vietnam and the US have allowed for the laundering of illegal shipments from recently poached elephants.
Ivory poaching continues to threaten elephant populations throughout the continent with recent census data indicating as few as 380,000 may be left in all of Africa. Poaching also threatens the last-remaining giant (tusker) elephants. Written by: Bradd Johnston for The Askari Project
The elephants of Tsavo are known around the world for their distinctive red colouring and this region is also home to some of the last great tuskers of Africa.
Tsavo has always been a special place for elephants and this vast expanse is currently home to Kenya’s largest elephant population numbering around 14,000.
The Askari Project is a not-for-profit organization specifically set up to raise funding and support for The Tsavo Trust a local Kenyan organization that works in conjunction with the Kenya Wildlife Service to monitor and protect the elephants in Tsavo with a specific emphasis on their signature program – The Big Tusker Project.
Tusker is the term used to describe bull elephants that have tusks that each weigh in excess of 45 kilograms (100 pounds).
The immense size of their tusks and the profits they bring have meant that tuskers have been relentlessly targeted by elephant hunters and poachers.
Tuskers are now incredibly rare with possibly as few as 20-30 left on the entire African continent. The greater Tsavo ecosystem containing Tsavo East, Tsavo West and Chyulu Hills National Parks is home to possibly the largest population of tuskers left in all of Africa.
The Askari Project fundraising
As part of their fundraising initiatives to help protect the tuskers of Tsavo, The Askari Project is running two exciting adventure tours in Africa in 2017.
The first being a nine-day Kilimanjaro climb (running from 31 August to 8 September) for elephant conservation which will attempt to summit Africa’s highest peak on the full moon in September. This trek up the Rongai route will be led by an expert mountaineer guide and Africa Geographic contributor Sarah Kingdom. Not only will participants achieve a personal milestone in reaching the summit but be climbing with a group of like-minded individuals wanting to raise vital funding for elephant conservation.
The second tour run with the help of RAW Africa Ecotours offers an incredible opportunity to come on safari to the elephant hotspots of Amboseli & Tsavo in Kenya. This tour will offer a rare and unique behind-the-scenes look at the conservation work of The Tsavo Trust, meet some of the hard-working staff and accompany them on the search for some of the magnificent and iconic elephants they monitor in the region.
This 10-day tour from 10 to 19 September 2017 offers some fantastic safari highlights but also contributes funding directly to the conservation work of The Tsavo Trust. The group size for this safari experience is restricted to just six lucky people.
Hunters who engage in unethical and illegal practices are largely to blame for the decline in the “overall acceptance” of trophy hunting by the general public and influential institutions across the globe says Namibian Professional Hunting Association (NAPHA) immediate-past president Kai-Uwe Denker. Written by Oscar Nkala
Addressing delegates at the association Annual General Meeting (AGM) in Windhoek in early December, Denker said the global hunting industry has been under siege from a coordinated, international anti-hunting movement since the 1970s.
He said of late, the image of the industry business had been battered by numerous revelations of unethical conduct by some hunters who are motivated by greed.
“Typical of human nature and for many reasons including greed, many hunting operators have thrown into the wind, not only the generally accepted standards of ethical hunting but also the very important ecological and nature conservation linkage it has to the principle of sustainable use (of wildlife resources),” Denker said.
Further, he said because financial motives tended to over-ride any moral considerations within the hunting industry, the little public support for trophy hunting had been lost to mounting reports of illegal and unethical hunting.
Such reports exposed the “well-founded and well-meant” principle of sustainable use of natural resources to rhetorical questions such as whether it was now about the abuse of natural resources.
Denker said the Namibian trophy hunting industry could survive, but only if its members restored the conduct of ethical and morally acceptable hunting. Such conduct would include the wider observation and adherence to a strict animal welfare code in order to convince the sceptical public that the only acceptable justification for trophy hunting is that it is an “indispensable” tool for practical nature conservation.
“It is no longer acceptable to try and justify unacceptable hunting practices by claiming that ethics and morals are matters of personal opinion. The worldwide community has clearly told us that with this, you have crossed the line. It is no longer good enough for a professional hunter to just drive a Landcruiser off the road and shoot a big boar with a rifle,” Denker said.
The strategy to win back public support for trophy hunting would also involve education and awareness campaigns to teach the hunters about the basics of conservation and sustainable use of wildlife resources.
The outgoing association president called for the introduction of a new professional hunter training curriculum that would prioritise conservation, with emphasis on aspects like functioning ecosystems, habitat aspects and population dynamics.
The current Namibian professional hunter training curriculum is an oral and practical course that was tailored-made to suit candidates who cannot read or write.
Denker said the reputation of the hunting industry would remain on “accelerated decline” as long as sectoral audits continued to reveal evidence of its manipulation of rules to facilitate the illegal exploitation of wildlife resources.
Should the sector fail to restore mechanisms to monitor adherence to hunting rules and moral ethics, professional hunters might as well abandon the business and hang up their rifles, Denker warned.
Addressing the same meeting, Deputy Minister of Environment and Tourism Tommy Nambahu said throughout 2016, the Namibian hunting industry struggled against severe challenges which threatened it’s sustainability as a lead contributor to wildlife and nature conservation.
These included the four-year-old regional drought that has dried up water resources, killing thousands of wild animals and livestock across the semi-desert country.
The ripple effects of global events such as the attack on, and advocacy against all forms of trophy hunting following the shooting of Cecil the Lion in Zimbabwe in mid-2015, have negatively affected the Namibian trophy hunting industry.
The iconic Zimbabwean male lion, which was a collared subject of a continuing lion research project run by Oxford University, was lured out of Hwange in July 2015 and killed by US doctor Walter Palmer with the help of professional hunter Theo Bronkhorst.
The US doctor initially shot and badly injured the lion with a bow and arrow. However, the bow-hunt, which is illegal in Zimbabwe, did not kill the lion and he had to finish it of with a rifle, hours after the first attack.
The public outcry generated by the criminal and unethical nature of the hunt galvanised the global anti-hunting lobby with some conservationists calling for a total ban of trophy hunting of lions and other endangered wildlife species.
Nambahu said trophy hunting in Namibia had declined in the aftermath of the illegal and unethical Cecil hunt because it generated global calls for a ban on trophy hunting and forced several airlines to boycott the transportation of trophies hunted in Africa.
“It is important for us as regulators, hunters, hunting outfitters and stakeholder communities to remain ethical in our dealings to avoid some of the unbecoming criticisms that may tarnish and further diminish our reputation,” the deputy minister said.
Internally, NAPHA is struggling to get rid of the perception that it is a white-dominated industry amid reports that the country has managed to train only 350 black professional hunters since the government drive for racial inclusion in the industry began in 2001.
Denker said in the past 20 years when efforts to promote inclusion largely failed, white members of the hunters association occasionally felt unwelcome although they were citizens who loved the country like any other.
Apart from the black professional hunter training project, another initiative that sought to promote black participation in the hunting business was the provision, in 2013, of courses to help communal conservancy operators become independent hunting operators.
The year is all but done, the mountain of admin has got the better of you, and strings of last-minute things to do are being pulled from your threadbare brain like a magician’s trick. It’s now, more than ever, that you need to be sitting on a beach, staring out over the turquoise water with a tall glass of citrus-something in your hand. Mauritius, anyone?
Mauritius is the ideal place to kick off your shoes and get sand between your toes. I know this because I recently found myself doing just that at the newly renovated Constance Belle Mare Plage. Sun loungers beckoned, whispering of days spent indulging in fine French wine from a floating platform on the pool. Scents of ylang-ylang, vanilla, frangipane and sweet orange filled the air.
This dream hotel, which seems to hang somewhere between heaven and earth, is found on the northwest coast of Mauritius overlooking two kilometres of pristine beach. Behind it lies a lagoon as clear as glass. The hotel was one of the first to be established on the island back in 1975 when Mauritians began to recognise its incredible potential for tourism. The Constance Group opened Belle Mare Plage with just ten self-catering bungalows, offering a unique style of beach living.
Today, the wealth of establishments to choose from along the island’s 330km coastline clearly illustrates how the tourism industry has blossomed here. Perhaps part of the secret to its success is that hospitality seems to be in Mauritian blood. Everyone I met was always willing to lend a hand and share a smile.
Once you’ve worked your way through a few of the 200 illustrious rums at Belle Mare Plage’s Blu Bar, you may regain enough mojo to set your sights on something more than sand and sun. So what is there to do in Mauritius besides sipping piña coladas and sneaking glances at the sexy French boat boy from behind your sunnies?
Play golf with Rudolph
Mauritius is definitely on the map as a golf destination. For a small island, there is a surprisingly large assortment of spectacular courses. Notable among them is The Legend Golf Course at Belle Mare Plage. Opened in 1994, it spreads over 70 hectares of a former deer reserve. Deer still roam here, and they can be quite a surprise for golfers who don’t expect to meet Rudolph in a tropical paradise.
Javan deer were introduced to Mauritius by a Dutch governor in 1639. They flourished on the island, finding agreeable homes in the forests. Deer from Mauritius have even been sent back to Java to help restock the now vulnerable population there.
Deer motifs also decorate the hand-painted wallpaper at Chateau de Labourdonnais. Built in 1859, this colonial mansion has been beautifully restored and is now a cultural museum. You can tour the house, learning about the island’s history, flora, architecture and cuisine. And, when you are done, the tasting bar beckons with yet more traditional island rum.
This extraordinarily, peaceful nation is remarkably diverse. You’ll find Catholic churches alongside Tamil temples, and Chinese pagodas cheek by jowl with Hindu statues. Interestingly, Mauritius is the only country in Africa where Hinduism is the dominant religion.
The most sacred Hindu site in Mauritius is the Grand Bassin crater lake. It’s a tranquil spot, framed by colourful statues and food stalls where locals offer refreshments to the pilgrims. Nearby, the Mangal Mahadev rises out of the mist. This 33-metre high statue of the Hindu god Shiva is one of the tallest monuments in the world and is well worth a visit.
I was lucky enough to be on the island for Diwali, the Hindu festival of lights. Houses aglow in a thousand fairy lights directed me back to Belle Mare Plage.
Staff dressed in traditional saris added another layer of colour to the multicoloured flowers, intricate Kolam rice drawings, and the ocean sparkling beyond.
If you love to shop, the Port Louis market has a t-shirt with your name on it. Besides the usual souvenir stalls and flower sellers, an abundance of deliciously fresh fish, fruit and vegetables will get your mouth watering.
Just around the corner, Le Caudan Waterfront offers more upmarket stalls and a duty-free store. Its indoor craft market had me bewitched with a multitude of local one-of-a-kind handicrafts which can be customised on the spot for your family and friends. Buy yourself some traditionally-pressed sugar cane juice and sip it under the colourful umbrellas that dance over the central courtyard.
Model ship making is a celebrated craft in Mauritius, and a visit to a model ship factory is a fascinating experience. You can watch the tiny boats being brought to life by artisans as they painstakingly build each miniature replica by hand.
The island’s natural attractions are no less enticing. In the southwest, the Black River Gorges National Park is famed for its gorges and waterfalls. Hike through them, and you’ll spot pink pigeons and monkeys. Nearby you’ll find the Chamarel Waterfall – which plummets more than 300 feet off a vertical cliff – and the Seven Coloured Earths. These surreal rainbow dunes are striped in red, brown, yellow, green, blue, purple and violet sand. They were created when basaltic lava from the volcanic eruption that formed the island nine million years ago cooled at different temperatures.
Mauritius boasts the oldest botanical gardens in the southern hemisphere. The Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanical Garden is named after the first Mauritian prime minister but is more commonly and conveniently known as the Pamplemousses (pamplemousse are grapefruit trees, which grow in the area.) Here you can see the famous giant water lilies, sacred Indian lotus, and over 80 species of palm trees. Look out for the bleeding tree (Pterocarpus angolensis), a teak tree that leaks macabre red-black sap, as well as the erotic Amazonia Pona palms, with their suggestively-shaped roots which had me giggling like a schoolgirl.
Fruit bats, the island’s only native mammals, can be spotted flitting through the trees in their hundreds.
Weather
Mauritius has almost 300 days of sunshine a year. Daily temperatures usually range between 20°C and 35°C. However, those sunny skies are not always clear, and rain can come down at the drop of a hat. It may last a few short minutes or the rest of the day. During showers it can get chilly, so, if you are out and about, be sure to pack a light jersey just in case.
Accommodation
If you are staying at a hotel, choose an all-inclusive rate if possible. Many hotels offer several restaurants (the Belle Mare Plage has no fewer than seven), and going all-inclusive gives you the chance to try them all without worrying about your budget. It’s also worth bearing in mind that spirits and wine are expensive on the island due to high taxes. All-inclusive packages ensure you can relax with a mojito whenever your heart desires.
Food
If you are a seafood lover, go ahead and indulge. Fish is fresh and reasonably priced. Tuna and marlin are reliably delicious wherever you go. And, with great local and French chefs around every corner, you’re unlikely to be disappointed by your dinner. At Constance Resorts and Hotels, fine cuisine is one of the highlights of the experience. I was treated to a dinner with a Michelin star chef and a cooking class that was a highlight of my stay.
Getting around
Take some time to explore the island. Although your hotel will probably offer everything you could want to enjoy your holiday in Mauritius, there is so much else to see in this gorgeous country.
While it’s possible to travel by bus, they can be unreliable, and taxis are expensive. Instead, rent a car from a local company. I recommend Maki Car Rental. They offer fantastic service, are budget-friendly, and the free GPS that comes with the vehicle offers interesting information at tourist spots. A rental car also allows you to explore at your own pace, stopping off at any of the picturesque places along the way.
If you prefer to learn as you go and leave the driving to someone else, you can sit back and enjoy a guided tour with a local. Mauritours offer very informative tours of the island. Ask for Mary, the guide who became my firm friend within a matter of minutes.
Flights
Keep an eye out for flight deals, especially if you’re South African. Special offers sometimes include ‘two for the price of one’ or free accommodation. Air Mauritius, the island’s carrier, is comfortable and efficient.
For camps & lodges at the best prices and our famous ready-made safari packages, log into our app. If you do not yet have our app see the instructions below this story.
JANINE AVERY is the first to confess that she has been bitten by the travel bug… badly. She is a lover of all things travel, from basic tenting with creepy crawlies to lazing in luxury lodges – she will give it all a go.
Janine is passionate about wildlife and conservation, and she comes from a long line of biologists, researchers and botanists.
Anton lives in Pretoria, South Africa, and works in his family’s property development and investment business. He and his wife, Renate, both have a passion for wildlife, with a particular interest in birds.
WATCH: 
Simon Espley is an African of the digital tribe, a chartered accountant and CEO of Africa Geographic. His travels in Africa are in search of wilderness, real people with interesting stories and elusive birds. He lives in Hoedspruit with his wife Lizz and 2 Jack Russells, and when not travelling or working, he will be on his mountain bike somewhere out there. His motto is ‘Live for now, have fun, be good, tread lightly and respect others. And embrace change.’
Dan Afrasiabi is President and CEO at Geneva Woods Health Care Services and member of the YPO Pacific and the US at large chapters. He has found a special place in his heart for African conservation efforts and is now a lifetime ambassador for Mother Africa.
Born and raised in Sydney, Australia, before moving to Africa at the age of 21, Sarah Kingdom is a mountain guide, traveller, and mother of two. When not climbing, she also owns and operates a 3,000-hectare cattle ranch in central Zambia.
Julia Migné is a multimedia journalist and wildlife photographer specialising in environmental issues. She has written for Africa Geographic and BBC Wildlife among others. An endless traveller, she swears that she would visit one country for each letter of the alphabet. She believes in constructive journalism and co-launched an international platform featuring positive and inspiring stories from across the world: 
Expedition leader Carla Geyser (founder of the 
Permanent crew member Yolande Kruger is extremely passionate about Africa, and serves as an executive board member of the 
Alison Westwood is a South African travel writer based in Cape Town. She’s written and photographed for magazines, travel websites and travel guides, and has recently co-authored a book about 
Anton
JANINE AVERY is the first to confess that she has been bitten by the travel bug… badly. She is a lover of all things travel, from basic tenting with creepy crawlies to lazing in luxury lodges – she will give it all a go.
