Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
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The truth about KAZA’s elephants + mesmerising pics
I have an amusing gorilla story for you. Many years ago, I was relaxing on the verandah of a chalet in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, having just spent an epic morning birding this avian treasure trove. My lodge of choice was a few hundred meters from Bwindi’s gorilla-trekking centre in Buhoma – the starting point for all hikes in this area. Gorilla treks can last up to six or eight hours and take you deep into the forested hills.
Lo and behold, a family of mountain gorillas emerged from the dense undergrowth, ambled towards me, and settled about 10m away. This was a welcome bonus to an already superb day because normally, you have to pay a gorilla-trekking fee and hike for hours. Yet here they were at my chalet!
The cherry on top was when a party of eight tourists arrived with their guides. This was the culmination of their gorilla trekking in Bwindi. So they settled in a few meters away to enjoy their 60 minutes of gorilla time while I, feet up on my verandah, sipped my delicious African tea and nibbled on freshly baked ginger biscuits, pretending all the while that this was not absolutely hilarious!
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Who wants to live forever?
In this week’s Photographer of the Year gallery, you will find a striking image of an ancient welwitschia captured by Wiktoria West. Like baobabs and cycads, welwitschias can live to well over 1000 years old. But did you know that there are some animals on earth that can outlive these plants, and some that can even live forever? Forget 120-year-old crocodiles, 200-year-old bowhead whales and 500-year-old clams: coral-like glass sponges can live in the deep ocean for 10,000+ years.
But, there is a group of small aquatic invertebrates, known as hydras, that have the potential to live forever. As hydras are made up of stem cells, they are able to regenerate through duplication, and don’t deteriorate as they age. They can also regrow lost body parts – even their heads. While the “immortal” hydras can die when eaten by predators, if able to avoid external dangers, (in theory) they can regenerate forever.
You can check out Wiktoria’s welwitschia and other mesmerising photos in this week’s gallery. And then, a new analysis of elephant population trends in KAZA (covering land in Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, and Zimbabwe) shows the impact of poaching and trophy hunting on elephants, slowed population growth, and negative population trends outside of protected areas – check out this important story below.
Dreaming of your bucket-list Maasai Mara safari or longing for a magical gorilla-trekking experience in Uganda? Or better yet – why not combine the two? Check out the epic safaris below, or let our travel team help you plan your dream safari
Explore the northernmost limits of the Maasai Mara-Serengeti ecosystem while skipping the migration-season crowds. Using Sentinel Mara Camp as your base, you’ll go in search of resident lion prides, cheetahs, and leopards. You’ll also find elephants, plains game, and exceptionally gorgeous sunsets – all critical ingredients to the quintessential Maasai Mara experience.
Trekking mountain gorillas is one of the most exhilarating experiences in the world – and where better to do this than Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, the birthplace of mountain-gorilla trekking? On this safari, you’ll also seek out the tree-climbing lions of Queen Elizabeth National Park and explore the biodiversity of Entebbe Botanical Gardens.
Help save poached pangolins
Remember the pangolin brought into Provet Animal Hospital around eight months ago? She was confiscated from the illegal wildlife trade and found clutching her 230-gram newborn pup which was born prematurely.
Thanks to Provet Wildlife Services and Umoya Khulula Wildlife Centre, this pangolin pup is now a very lively and feisty teenager, weighing over 5kg.
The cost of rescuing a pangolin and hospitalising it for ONE week is about US$800 (R15,000). You can help with this process by donating and lending your support to the hard-working teams who are dedicated to saving Africa’s pangolins.
Note: all pangolins are housed at offsite locations for security reasons
WATCH: Wouldn’t you rather be on safari? Check out this video for inspiration – and let Africa Geographic take you there with our unique, handcrafted safaris. (00:45) Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
A technical review of a recent census of elephant populations in southern Africa provides thought-provoking details behind the broader figures. Detailed analysis of population and carcass trends by country and region reveals the impact of poaching and trophy hunting on elephants. This granular information allows us to understand the human impacts on elephants better and empowers conservationists to make informed decisions.
[Editorial note: Useful definitions and explanations for some of the terms used can be found at the end of the article.]
At the end of 2023, the Kavango-Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area 2022 KAZA Elephant Survey results, revealing an estimated population of 227,900 savannah elephants. The magnitude of such an endeavour cannot be underestimated: KAZA covers a 520,000km2 network of landscapes across five different countries (Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, and Zimbabwe), and to count its elephants is an undeniably impressive feat. The results suggest with cautious optimism that the world’s largest population of savannah elephants remains stable.
Yet the problem with viewing this massive region through a wide-angle metapopulation lens is that vital country- and regional-level nuances are lost. Some of these missing details have essential ramifications for guiding management and conservation policies. In the space of a few months since the release of the survey report, non-governmental organisation Elephants without Borders (EWB) has produced their technical review of the results. They offer a more granular analysis of elephant population trends and compare the data with those of previous surveys to provide comprehensive context.
Some of the important questions they set out to answer included:
How and where are populations changing within countries?
Are large elephant populations in Zimbabwe and Botswana still growing?
How are elephant populations faring where hunting is occurring?
Is poaching affecting elephant populations in KAZA?
Their 36-page report, which uses more localised data to focus on trends and changes, offers detailed answers to some of these questions and more. We have summarised the more critical aspects of their findings below.
Northern Botswana’s elephants
As expected, the 2022 KAZA Elephant Survey revealed Botswana to be home to most of the KAZA elephant population (58%). In addition to this fact, there are several reasons why this region is of particular interest to policymakers and conservationists. One particularly sensitive aspect is the lifting of the elephant trophy hunting moratorium in 2019, often defended by the rhetoric of a rapidly expanding elephant population. Another is growing evidence of increased poaching activity.
According to the EWB analysis, overall elephant populations in northern Botswana have changed little between 2010 and 2022 (in direct contradiction to several government statements). At most, the report indicates a maximum growth rate of 2% per year between 2010 and 2022 and emphasises that “elephant numbers are no longer proliferating in Botswana”.
However, there are notable differences in the population trends across the different landscapes. Elephant numbers within Moremi Game Reserve, Chobe National Park, the Okavango Delta, and surrounding ecotourism regions remained either stable or increased between 2018 and 2022. Outside of these protected areas, many forest reserves, farming areas, and hunting blocks have shown negative population trends.
The authors of the EWB report also spent time separately analysing trends within the Okavango Panhandle populations. They explain their specific focus on this region as it is home to “controversial” elephant populations, plagued by perceptions of burgeoning populations and increased human-wildlife conflict. The report concludes that, once again, contrary to public government statements, elephant numbers have remained roughly stable in the Panhandle since 2010. Comparison with more recent surveys revealed an 18% decline in overall elephant numbers since 2018.
Mortalities and poaching
All carcass ratios in northern Botswana increased substantially between 2014 and 2022 (from 8.2 % to 12.4%). To put this into context, 8% is generally considered by ecologists and statisticians to be the cut-off for a growing or stable population. If the ratio is higher, mortalities likely outweigh births, resulting in a decreasing population. 63% of Botswana’s elephant population occupies regions with a greater carcass ratio than 8%. Once again, this was not a homogenous change seen across all of the areas surveyed: carcass ratios in Moremi Game Reserve, Chobe National Park, the Okavango Delta, and surrounding ecotourism regions remained either unchanged or decreased. The most significant increases were seen in the southeastern part of the study area, where elephant populations were also noted to have declined.
Equally concerningly, of all the regions surveyed in 2022, Botswana’s fresh/recent carcass ratio (mortalities within 12 months of the survey) was also the highest (0.70%) in KAZA. During EWB’s 2018 study, researchers identified several poaching “hotspots”, including parts of the Okavango Panhandle and the Khwai area. Encouragingly, fresh/recent carcass ratios were lower in these regions. However, they were raised at the border with Namibia near the Kwando and Chobe Rivers and the Savute region of Chobe. According to the 2022 KAZA Elephant Survey report, these carcasses were examined and found to have their tusks intact. However, EWB reports conducting reconnaissance flights in 2023 and 2024 (after the 2022 survey flights) and locating 56 poached elephants. Most of these were found in NG15 and NG18 (the Linyanti region just west of Chobe National Park).
This documentation of poached elephants was done over a small area, and numbers may also be high in areas not assessed, with the study noting that “this small sample is not sufficient for estimating poaching rates in an area of over 500,000 km2. More monitoring of poaching is badly needed in KAZA.”
Hunting
During their analysis, EWB compared elephant population trends in areas with and without trophy hunting to understand how hunting might affect elephant dynamics or vice versa. They found that between 2018 and 2022, the elephant numbers, on average, increased in areas without hunting and decreased significantly in those with hunting. The same pattern was observed for breeding herds and bulls, though the changes across the intervening four years were insignificant for bulls. These changes do not suggest that trophy hunting is causing an overall population decline but rather that elephants are moving from hunting to non-hunting areas (which, it should be noted, could cause complications if elephants move to areas with higher human populations – exacerbating human-elephant conflict).
The cause for these shifts remains unknown, though the authors suggest that elephants may be shifting to avoid the disturbance caused by trophy hunting. They also highlight that if these movements are a consequence of trophy hunting, they may undermine the initial reasons for reinstation and call into question its sustainability as a practice.
Angola
Though Angola and Zambia combined are home to just 4% of KAZA’s elephants, the former has gained considerable interest as a potential elephant habitat since the end of the Angolan Civil War in the early 2000s. So much so that it has even been suggested that Botswana could translocate “excess” elephants to the region. The 2022 KAZA survey reported an elephant population growth of 80% between 2015 and 2022. However, a major qualifier is attached to this statistic: the count was likely substantially skewed by a few anomalously large herds counted near the Kwando River. The authors of the EWB analysis state outright that it is implausible that Angola’s elephant population has increased to such an extent.
This interpretation is supported by the previous 2015 census, which recorded fresh/recent carcass ratios of 10% – one of the highest such ratios ever recorded in savannah elephants and one highly likely to be associated with a declining population. Between 2015 and 2022, elephants have all but vanished from the western part of the Angolan region of KAZA, and the authors recorded a 98% decline in populations along the Cuito and Kavango Rivers.
Interpreted in combination, these signs all point towards an “elephant population in trouble”. Worryingly, the EWB analysis describes Angola as an attractive population sink for elephants, meaning that elephants may move into Angola from areas of high elephant density in Botswana and Namibia but then struggle against extrinsic factors such as high levels of poaching and even landmines left behind from the years of civil war. Over time, these population sinks have the potential to contribute to broader population declines.
Zimbabwe
The 2022 KAZA Elephant Survey and subsequent EWB analysis point to largely positive news regarding Zimbabwe’s elephant populations. Populations in northwest Matabeleland and Sebungwe have remained stable (and even increased). Similarly, Hwange National Park’s numbers have remained largely stable, though there has been some internal shifting within the park (which the authors suggest could be linked to new artificial waterholes). Moreover, all-carcass and fresh/recent-carcass ratios decreased to some degree, suggesting the possibility of reduced poaching pressure in Zimbabwe.
Namibia
The EWB analysis notes that elephant numbers generally decreased along Namibia’s border with Angola (while being stable along the Botswana border).
Zambia
Due to differences in counting techniques (see below), EWB was relatively limited in its ability to formally compare the current survey to those conducted previously in Zambia and thus was unable to determine trends accurately.
However, the 2022 survey reports a worrying decline in estimated elephant populations in the Kafue region from 6,688 in 2015 to 3,840 in 2022. Even with wide confidence margins, this population reduction is concerning, and EWB authors suggest that further surveys in the Kafue are warranted.
Elephants wading in Okavango Delta
The power (and limitations) of surveys of elephants
“The 228,000 elephants estimated to occur in KAZA seems large. However, determining the health of KAZA’s elephant population requires interpreting that number in light of how it has changed from earlier estimates.” In this respect, the EWB is somewhat critical of the report from the 2022 survey, which did not include any formal trend analysis. They emphasise that the primary goal of any census should not be the count itself but rather trends over time.
One of the primary challenges faced by EWB in compiling their analysis was that the modified methodology of the 2022 survey made comparisons with surveys of previous years more challenging. In particular, stratum boundaries were changed from preceding surveys, making it difficult to compare results and investigate trends. In some instances, EWB overcame these differences by reformulating previous data to match the new methodology as closely as possible. However, the strata for Zambia were so changed that any simple comparisons between years were impossible.
The authors suggest that even when a survey is conducted without the intention of detailed trend analysis, it should still be structured to facilitate the process. They conclude that the best way to do this is to keep the stratum boundaries consistent, or if change is necessary, such changes should be made “with a nod towards facilitating comparison.” It is unclear why the strata for the 2022 survey were altered.
Final thoughts on KAZA’s elephants
The Kavango-Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area is conservation on a grand scale – designed to promote resilient habitats and animal populations. Population overviews such as the one provided by the 2022 survey are undeniably important, especially for a species as impactful as elephants. It is deeply encouraging that the overall numbers of elephants are stable.
However, detailed analysis allows for detecting nascent threats before they have disastrous effects on a population. As the authors of the EWB report conclude, “managers need accurate and detailed information about how and where elephant populations are changing to effectively manage KAZA’s 227,900 elephants”.
Definitions
Carcass ratios: a technique used by ecologists to put mortalities into context and determine whether a population is likely to be growing, declining or stable.
All-carcass ratios: carcass estimates as a percentage of live elephant and carcass estimates. Previous ecological studies have shown that a ratio of over 8% is generally the cut-off for a stable population. If the ratio goes any higher, the mortality rate outstrips the birth rate, and the population begins to decline.
Fresh/recent carcass rations: carcasses deemed to be less than 12 months old as a percentage of live elephant and carcass estimates. This ratio can be used to detect emergent population challenges such as poaching surges and disease events.
Strata/stratum boundaries/stratification: when conducting an aerial survey, the region of interest is divided into strata (that is, it is stratified), and the sizes and shapes of these strata are determined by environmental conditions such as permanent water availability, vegetation type and landscape use. These, in turn, determine the spacing of the transects flown by the aerial counting team. So, for example, a section of riverine habitat surrounded by lush flood plains will likely support a higher density of animals and thus requires that the counting team flies narrow transects to estimate the number of animals present accurately. Conversely, pilots can fly much wider transects in a sparse area without drinking water and little vegetation because there are fewer animals to count, so the risk of underestimating populations is reduced.
A high-powered Botswana delegation has been attempting to convince UK and EU decision-makers not to give in to pressure to ban the import of hunting trophies.
In this televised interview, Botswana president Masisi, a highly intelligent man and superb orator, made various dubious claims to support the case for trophy hunting. His primary concern, he said, was safety – because elephants ‘maul and maraud people.’ Of course, human-elephant conflict is a very real problem in parts of Botswana BUT these are not the elephants being hunted. Trophy hunters are not interested in the perpetrators of human-elephant conflict; they are after the dwindling population of large-tusked lone bulls. To put it more plainly: trophy hunting has no impact on the issue that Masisi claims is the primary benefit of trophy hunting. It’s obvious in this interview that he views elephants as nothing more than political collateral. An inconvenient truth for Masisi is that during his reign there has been a significant increase in elephant poaching in Botswana. He has also lorded over the decimation by poachers of what was a growing wild rhino population. Rhinos were reintroduced to Botswana by the previous regime and their conservation partners – most of whom have been cold-shouldered by the Masisi regime.
Masisi also referred to the UK’s sovereign right to determine their own regulations as ‘a resurgence of colonial conquest’. Come again? To cap it off he lamented the peddling of ‘untruths’ by those opposed to trophy hunting. Oh the irony!
It’s a pity that the Sky News interviewer and subsequent talking heads did not understand the topic and so could not interrogate the obvious flaws in his claims and the gaping omissions.
Masisi does make some excellent points about the need for his people to be incentivised to conserve animals – it’s just a pity that he also trots out untruths and hypocritical generalisations. Any sustainable conservation strategy has to be transparently applied and be rooted in science and factual accuracy
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Did you know that, by 2070, Africa’s venomous snakes may have migrated to new territories, creating problems for people not used to dangerous encounters of the reptile kind?
Climate change is affecting the distribution of all animals on the planet, threatening delicate populations and causing some species to go extinct. New research that focused on 209 venomous snakes in Africa predicts that in the next half century, snakes will migrate to new environments that remain suitable when temperatures rise (by an average of 5ºC). The domino effect could cause the spread of diseases (due to the absence of snakes to control rodent populations), challenges to public health where antivenoms are scarce, and threats to livestock and livelihoods. What can be done? Investment into scientific research that tackles the problems facing the continent’s wildlife and people is essential.
Don’t miss our Week 3 Photographer of the Year gallery below, and our story on Kingsley Holgate’s journey of hope to Majete, Malawi.
Longing for an escape to warmer climes? To lounge beside the ocean? Here’s your chance to dive in and spend a holiday in paradise. Check out our options below, or let our experts plan your unique balmy safari.
On this 9-day safari of discovery you’ll explore the natural, cultural and historical wonders of the two magical islands of São Tomé and Príncipe. You’ll visit roças, experience the other-worldy coastline by boat, venture deep into rainforests and see unique flora and fauna, while spending time with local people to gain true insight into life in this island nation.
Discover Madagascar’s pristine and raw beauty. Experience powdery white beaches, palm trees, magical forests, lemurs and impossibly blue waters on this tropical-island escape. You’ll visit the rainforests and Blue Lagoon in Ambodilaitry Masoala Marine Reserve on the island’s northeast coast, and spend days kayaking on the lagoon, walking its shores and snorkelling its coves.
Photographer of the Year 2024
Have you submitted your entry for Photographer of the Year 2024? Curious about what all the excitement is about? Visit our website for all you need to know, from how and where to enter, to our competition rules and the epic prizes on offer – including a conservation safari and a lion research collar sponsored in your name. Don’t miss your chance to become the next Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year!
WATCH: Liuwa Plain National Park in Zambia is home to precious Ramsar site wetlands, new lion prides & remote wilderness to get lost in. It also plays host to Africa’s second-largest wildebeest migration. With seemingly boundless horizons, the open landscape is not unlike that of some of East Africa’s most renowned safari destinations – minus the crowds. (04:23) Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
We can’t believe our eyes: park manager John Adendorff, some 40 smartly turned-out members of the ranger corps and other staff are gathered under the giant ‘Welcome to Majete Wildlife Reserve’ sign, waiting for our arrival at this remarkable wildlife sanctuary. It’s a magnificent surprise as they form a guard of honour and then, in perfect unison, escort the expedition Defenders in a boot-thumping, chanting formation to the Park’s parade ground and its Ranger Memorial. What an honour for our Afrika Odyssey team.
John grins from ear to ear. “They’re the best,” he says as the corps performs a complicated, close-order parade ground drill to the staccato commands shouted by their imposing, red-sashed sergeant major. They’re preparing for a significant event – Majete’s 20th anniversary celebration.
Majete’s rangers form a guard of honour for the Afrika Odyssey expedition team
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
Nestled in the low-lying Shire River valley in southern Malawi and encircled by rugged highlands, Majete is a remarkable tale of a once-declining reserve revitalised into a sanctuary for wildlife. In 2003, it was the first park to come under African Parks management when a historic 25-year agreement with the Malawi government was signed. So began an extraordinary story of hope and restoration, and over the next few days, we find out just how much there is to celebrate. It’s precisely why we’ve dedicated much of our lives to this rather unusual conservation, community and culture-themed journey of purpose.
“Let’s go to where it all began,” suggests John, but I go down with malaria; and have to stay behind to sweat it out at the game capture campsite. The rest of the gang pile onto the back of John’s bakkie and take a wandering track through the reserve, passing towering granite hills, open savannahs and beautiful miombo woodlands dotted with ilala palms, silvery-barked African star-chestnut trees and the occasional baobab, some of which must be over a thousand years old. The park is served by two main rivers: the gentle Mkulumadzi and the mighty Shire, which converge here in Majete before joining the Zambezi to reach the Indian Ocean.
We drive down a steep rocky bank marked by a massive African mahogany tree, one of the biggest we’ve ever seen, to reach the Phwadzi Springs. Held in place by a strangler fig, we find the old, twisted metal ladder leading to a viewing platform once used by George Dudley Hayes – GD for short – a pioneering conservationist who often camped here and played a critical role in Majete being proclaimed a game reserve in 1955. In those days, the area teamed with wildlife, and Hayes recorded in his diary seeing a host of animals at these springs, including sable, eland, zebra, duiker, buffalo, lion, hyena and leopard. In 1956, he casually noted a pack of wild dogs playing around. It was the last known record of the species in Majete.
Majete is one of Malawi’s most popular Big 5 reserves, offering a good chance of spotting leopards
Here, in this historic place, John adds water to the Zulu calabash and from the eye of the spring, his daughter Josie and Dutch visitors Jules, Matisse and Steven select water-smoothed round pebbles – another of this expedition’s traditions. We’re collecting symbolic pebbles from each of the 22 African Parks-managed areas we visit. We will use them to build a legacy ‘Isivivane’ (stone cairn) at AP’s head office HQ in Johannesburg at the end of this Afrika Odyssey journey in a few months.
Park manager John Adendorff fills up the expedition calabash with water from the Phwadzi Springs; Kingsley helps African Parks staff with the provision of eye tests and reading classes in the Majete community
Driving back to camp, John shares more about the history of Majete. The subsequent decline of the reserve in the ‘70s and ’80s must have been heart-wrenching for GD Hayes as charcoal burning, logging, and poaching ravaged the wildlife. The last rhino was seen in the ‘80s, large carnivores disappeared in the ‘90s, and the park’s sole surviving elephant was killed in 1992. By 2002, only a handful of antelope remained, the park’s infrastructure consisted of just one broken building, the roads were wrecked, and not a single tourist had visited the park in three years.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? You can plan and book your African Parks safari to Majete Wildlife Reserve and other parks by clicking here.
In 2003, African Parks took over the management and the rest, as they say, is history. Since then, more than 5,000 animals from 17 species have been reintroduced, including black rhino, elephant, lion, giraffe and cheetah.
Lions have been reintroduced into the reserve and are now thriving
“And isn’t it fantastic that in 2021, we were able to introduce six wild dogs after a 60-year absence, and they’ve just had their second litter of pups – the pack now numbers 24!” says John. “I can just imagine the grin on GD Hayes’ face as he sat up on his tree platform all those years ago.”
Wild dogs introduced into the reserve are doing well
Its recovery has been so successful that Majete has been able to help restore other parks in Malawi, including 150 elephants, as part of the historic 500 Elephants translocation to Nkhotakota in 2017. But that’s only one part of this incredible story. Around the fire at night, John tells us that hundreds of jobs have been created, the park has not lost a single rhino or elephant to poaching, and the surrounding communities have become enthusiastic supporters as they see their livelihoods, health, and education improve, thanks to Majete’s existence.
The Majete team offer a grand welcome to the Afrika Odyssey expedition
John’s boundless energy, engaging leadership approach and immense pride in the Majete team are obvious. “We follow the ‘broken window’ policy here: if it’s broke, don’t leave it – fix it!” he tells us. John’s a veritable goldmine of information and never-ending stories; he spent 28 years at Addo Elephant National Park in South Africa’s Eastern Cape, rising through the ranks to leave an indelible legacy before moving to Majete – our ribs ache from laughter at some of his more risqué anecdotes.
Community extension manager Dixie Makwale signs the Scroll
Community extension manager Dixie Makwale, who has a smile as wide as the Shire River, invites us to join their monthly Umuganda community clean-up day. Everyone pitches in – John, the head office team, rangers, wildlife monitors, tourism staff, visiting volunteers, workshop mechanics and handypersons. It takes place at the Kakoma health centre. It includes a ‘chicken parade’ of litter collection, malaria education for pregnant women and moms with infants, eye tests and reading glasses for the poor-sighted, and a Wildlife Art competition.
Gathering for the Umuganda community clean-up dayHelping to prevent malaria amongst women and children at the Majete-supported Kakoma Clinic
Then, the highlight is a frenetic, crazy-costumed cultural event by the ritualistic Gule Wamkulu dancers, who we’re told are favourites of this region’s Chewa and Manganga people. Dixie also tells us that 50 wildlife clubs have been established, and 2,500 children visited the reserve last year to learn about wildlife conservation first-hand.
He invites us to spend a story-telling evening around the campfire with a group of kids spending a few educational days at the park’s youth camp; we’re astonished at their insightful understanding of environmental issues and the need to protect Africa’s wild areas.
Majete has come a long way in the last 20 years, from a sink to a source of value that now provides hundreds of jobs and supports thousands of community members. At last light one evening, we stand on a granite hill viewpoint with 360° views stretching as far as the eye can see – it’s time to say goodbye to the miracle of Majete. This was Dr Anthony Hall-Martin’s favourite place – it was thanks to his far-seeing grit and determination that this thriving park became the cornerstone of the African Parks story.
Traditional Gule Wamkulu dancers at Majete’s Umuganda community day
On a brass plaque attached to a stone plinth is a tribute to his vision and leadership and a poem he used to recite:
“Make no little plans,
They have no magic to stir men’s blood,
And probably, they will not be realised.
Make big plans deep into the future,
Aim high in hope and work.
Have faith, remembering that a noble plan, once recorded, will never die.
But we will still be a living thing long after we are gone.”
How apt is the last line as his legacy lives on, not just here at Majete but in 21 other wildlife areas in 12 countries across this beautiful continent?
Our visits to Malawi’s three African Parks-managed conservation areas of Nkhotakota (the old forest reserve that’s been reborn and restocked with 500 elephants and more), Liwonde & Mangochi (a picture-postcard park that’s been wholly revitalised) and now Majete (African Parks’ very first project now celebrating 20 years of operation – a complete miracle of conservation that’s become Malawi’s most visited Big five reserve), have all been wonderful, eye-opening experiences for the Afrika Odyssey expedition team. We’re truly delighted that this small country of Malawi has provided us with such valuable stories of hope for Africa’s wildlife and wild spaces.
Zikomo Kwambiri, and congratulations to everyone.
Resources
Malawi’s Majete Wildlife Reserve is a booming Big 5 destination. Be drawn by epic scenery, cheetahs & wild dogs, & the mighty Shire River. Read more about Majete here.
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Tusker hunt photos emerge + more
About 20 years ago a bunch of adventurous lads rubber-ducked the mighty Zambezi River from source to mouth to raise funds for anti-malaria campaigns in the region. It was an epic adventure that delivered many life-lessons.
The annual floods had arrived in Western Zambia and we came across many temporarily abandoned villages – and found ourselves drifting between the elevated wooden-platform homes. The Lozi people move to higher ground to the east during the floods, marking the occasion with the famous Kuomboka festival. One night we found a tiny island that seemed perfect for camping. Unbeknown to us, the entire ant population of Barotseland was sheltering on this rare patch of elevated land. These angry warriors ate the bottom of one of our tents and persuaded us to spend the night huddled around our meagre fire slapping our legs or sleeping in the floating rubber ducks! We also learned how to avoid becoming flat dog (crocodile) food while taking a communal bucket-shower on the banks of the Zambezi – but that’s another story.
My last visit to the birth floodplains of the Zambezi River was late last year. Liuwa Plain National Park in Zambia is one of Africa’s rising wildlife destinations, rivalling even the famous South Luangwa National Park in its appeal. Among other things, Liuwa hosts the second largest wildebeest migration – it’s like a mini Serengeti. Have a look here and start planning your next safari. 100% of revenue received by African Parks from your Liuwa safari goes to wildlife conservation and community empowerment.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Falcons are incredibly fast and skilled hunters. But did you know that there is one falcon that has taken its hunting abilities to the next level?
The Eleonora’s falcon, which breeds off the coast of Morocco and winters in Madagascar, has come up with a unique way of keeping its meals fresh – by catching small live birds and trapping them inside rocky prisons. Ornithologists observing one population of the birds on the Mogador archipelago reported that the falcons caught little birds, stripped them of their flight feathers and shoved them into deep holes in the rocks. Cunning!
In an update to our recent story on three elephants trophy hunted in Enduimet, Tanzania, we are now able to publish the photos from the first hunt of super tusker, Gilgil – see our story below. Photographer of the Year 2024 is warming up rapidly, and this week’s epic photos are hot, hot, hot… Check them out in the gallery below. And read our fascinating story about how a wobbly earth and once-green Sahara led to the spread of humans.
Enjoy this iconic bush and beach safari – the best that South Africa offers. Greater Kruger’s exceptional Big 5 game viewing will sweep you off your feet. This safari also includes a full-day road trip to the stunning scenery and cultural delights of the Lowveld. Then, head on to vibey Cape Town, her beaches, and the nearby Winelands.
Be captivated by the rawness of the Greater Kruger wilderness. This one-of-a-kind mobile-camping safari is for adventurous travellers. Walk the bushveld with a guide and trackers while the ground team moves your tented camp to a new location every night. This soul-food safari will reconnect you with nature and recharge your batteries.
WATCH: A wonderful sighting of a baby zebra taking its very first steps after just after being born in Thornybush Game Reserve, Greater Kruger, South Africa. (01:00) Click here to watch
It’s an interesting tale, and it takes place in the hot, arid Sahara Desert in Africa. Actually, it takes place in the warm, wet and green Sahara. The Sahara Desert was not always the hyper-arid, dune-swept region it is now. It has been lush-green, damp and full of rivers in the past (about 230 times in the last 8 million years, every 21,000 years or so, to be more precise). During these green periods, vegetated corridors created distribution channels for various species – including humans. So, how did the Sahara change so much? What led to the climatic variations that changed the desert into a savannah?
It all comes down to the Earth’s dance in the Milky Way: the past changes occurring in the Sahara are linked to cyclic variations in the Earth’s orbit. To understand this, one needs to know how our Earth moves. We all know that the Earth rotates every 24 hours (causing day and night) and that it undergoes a 365-day revolution around the sun (causing seasons), but did you know that every 100,000 years, the shape of Earth’s orbit shifts between circular and oval (a phenomenon known as eccentricity)? And that every 41,000 years the tilt of Earth’s axis changes (termed obliquity) between 22.1 and 24.5 degrees? These changes in the eccentricity and obliquity cycles are responsible for driving the ice ages of the past 2.4 million years. Furthermore, the Earth is not a perfect sphere; it bulges at the Equator and is influenced by the sun’s gravity, moon, and planets. Just like a spinning top, it sometimes wobbles during its rotation. This is called ‘precession’ and is defined as the slow change in the direction of Earth’s rotational axis, and it varies on a 21,000-year timescale. There are no prizes for guessing then that the 21,000-year precession cycle is linked to the 21,000-year timing of the wet, green Sahara periods.
How does a wobbly Earth make a desert go green?
Firstly, one needs to understand what climate systems influence North Africa. The region’s climate is governed by three different systems: the northern (Mediterranean and northernmost Atlantic) coastal belt of westerly rains that fall mainly during the late autumn to early spring, and the West and East African monsoons (WAM and EAM) which bring summer rains to the subtropical regions located west and east of the River Nile. When the Earth wobbles on its axis (precession) at different times during the cycle, the seasons will become more or less extreme in the northern or southern hemisphere. When the precession causes the Northern Hemisphere to be closer to the sun during the summer months, there is an increase in North African summer rainfall. This happens because of an increase in the amount of solar radiation in the tropics, which is the engine that fuels the monsoon system. This then results in the enhancement of East African Monsoon summer rainfall over the southern part of the Nile catchment and the Ethiopian highlands and also causes the intensification and enhanced northward penetration of the West African Monsoon summer rains over the present-day Sahara. During these times, the increased rainfall and solar radiation resulted in the greening of the Sahara, with swathes of savannah vegetation and abundant lakes and rivers. These are the so-called Green Sahara Periods (GSPs) or the (more prosaic) term “North African humid periods” (NAHPs).
However, the humid periods sometimes do not occur (they skip a beat). Using climate change modelling, Armstrong et al. (2023) found that these periods occurred during the ice ages when sizeable glacial ice sheets covered much of the polar regions. These vast ice sheets cooled the Earth’s atmosphere, offset precession’s warming influence and suppressed the expansion of the African monsoon system.
In summary: the Earth wobbles, temperatures go up in some places and down in others, the monsoon engine is revved up, and more rain falls in the Sahara, except for during the Ice Ages, which are driven by the eccentricity cycle (how circular Earth’s orbit is around the sun). During these times, the vast surface area of ice sheets causes cooling, which offsets the warming. This is one of the most exciting findings of Armstrong et al. (2023); it shows us how connected everything is. The desert is linked to the ice, and the vegetation is linked to the movement of the Earth.
How did we first learn about these wet periods in the Sahara?
Studies on pollen analysis and marine and lake sediments in the Sahara have shown us that there was far more vegetation during these periods than there is now. But we also know about these GSPs through the details of the rock art in the area. The humans living during those greening periods told the story of antelopes, crocodiles, hippos, and giraffes through the language of art. The details of the rock art in the World Heritage Site, Tassili n’Ajjer, located in south-east Algeria at the borders of Libya, Niger and Mali, contain some of the “most eloquent expression of relationships between humans and the environment, with more than 15,000 drawings and engravings testifying to climate changes, wildlife migrations, and the evolution of humankind on the edge of the Sahara. This art depicts water-dependent species like the hippopotamus, which have been extinct in the region for thousands of years.”
The Sahara Desert today
So how did the greening of the Sahara change humankind’s journey?
We need to keep the bigger picture in mind. The Sahara Desert takes up 9 million km2, one-third of the African continent, and when dry, represents a significant barrier to the dispersal of species, including ancient hominid races. The theory is that these GSPs led to vegetated corridors, which then allowed changes in species’ distribution and evolution and may have facilitated the out-of-Africa migrations of ancient humans. These fertile phases presumably resulted in a significant expansion of human populations, which may, in turn, have increased the number of favourable genetic mutations which underpinned the speciation of hominin lineages.
Combined with the environmental variability associated with GSPs coming and going, the humans probably arrived and left, which might have had an additional impact on human population dynamics as it might have split African and Asian populations. When GSPs ended, human groups were likely forced to retreat to already densely populated areas or to survive in regions with still water. There is a significant association between the currently known first and last appearance datums of the major hominin lineages, suites of technological behaviours, and dispersal events with the predicted intervals of prolonged high climate variability associated with precession cycles.
Therefore, a wobbly Earth led to periods of increased climate variability, prompting human adaptability and flexibility and leading to evolutionary change in the hominids. So, if you are feeling a little off-colour today, just cast your mind back millions of years and think about how much of our history is based on a wobble. We need the wobblies to keep us on our toes.
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
Leopards have been particularly active in our neighbourhood recently. One gent living in our street literally bumped into one in his garden a few nights ago – it was chasing his dog, which had ventured into the dark to take a leak. Leopard and human got a helluva fright and scarpered in opposite directions – a lucky break for the dog!
This got me thinking about humankind’s relationships with wild animals. Of course, we define everything according to our ever-increasing needs and sense of self-importance (ego vs eco), but here and there, we also benefit opportunistic species. The local leopards certainly seem to enjoy supplementing their diets with tasty canine snacks, and mongooses, bush babies and vervet monkeys clearly benefit from our kindness and waste. Another example is the stable yard in our wildlife estate – a haven for dung beetles and the creatures that feast on them. Purists may roll their eyes, but I enjoy life in this buffer zone between the Greater Kruger bushveld to the east and farmlands to the west.
Thanks for all the emails and social media support about the ongoing situation regarding trophy hunters picking off the remaining super tuskers. We are proud to have helped spark a growing campaign to stop this morally bankrupt, unsustainable plunder of Africa’s wild spaces. We are monitoring a few trophy hunting forums and have noticed some hunters challenging the bad apples, which is good to see. This is a developing situation – expect more news in the coming months.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Imagine you are wandering the desert, with not a drop of water in sight. A juicy melon appears – like manna from heaven. But it’s not quite ripe yet… How to deter thieves from pinching your melon while you wait for it to reach optimum sweetness?
Black-backed jackals have solved this conundrum – by urinating on the near-ripe melons.
Scientists have discovered that jackals in the Namib Desert urinate on the Nara melons to deter other animals from eating them, allowing them to ripen to their own taste. They made the discovery while studying the role jackals play in distributing the seeds of the nara plant (which they do very well through their faeces). Jackals can suss out which melons are ripe, or are about to ripen, with one quick sniff.
This week, we have, after much anticipation, published the first Photographer of the Year gallery for 2024, and our first entries do not disappoint! Check out the gallery below. We’ve also put together the ultimate guide to Mapungubwe National Park – not to be missed.
This bumper safari is about water – or the lack thereof. This adventure will take you from the majestic Victoria Falls to the watery wilderness of the Okavango Delta, and from the predator-rich northern Botswana floodplains to the remote Central Kalahari and desolate salt pans. 11 days of safari splendour.
This safari offers a jam-packed three days of nonstop action in Africa’s adventure capital – ideal for a short break or as an add-on to another safari. Either way, Victoria Falls, one of the world’s Seven Wonders, is a destination well worth ticking off your bucket list. Experience the magic of “the smoke that thunders” – whether getting drenched while admiring the view or participating in the many activities on offer here, from white-water rafting, to gorge swinging, helicopter flights, boat cruises, game drives, canoeing and more.
‘Conservation Kraal Challenge’ to mitigate farmer-predator conflict
The Cape Leopard Trust is challenging the public to put their creativity and engineering know-how to the test to help make a difference for leopard conservation. The Trust is hosting a national competition to find designs for an affordable, safe, durable, portable and predator-proof kraal (a protective enclosure) to secure livestock. Read more about this unique challenge on our forum so that you can help conserve wildlife and help find a practical solution for farmers suffering stock losses.
WATCH: Nyungwe National Park hosts Africa’s most extensive protected tract of montane forest. This verdant oasis is a biodiversity hotspot bursting with life. Nyungwe covers 1,019km2 of forested mountains, burbling streams, sun-starved valleys, and extensive swamps seemingly hiding a myriad of new species waiting to be discovered (or rediscovered). Learn more about Nyungwe in this video. (07:42) Click here to watch
There is an undercurrent of mysticism that pervades the arid savannahs of Mapungubwe National Park. Here, as the wind whistles past sandstone ridges and boulder-strewn kopjes, it seems to carry echoes of the park’s vibrant history. Gnarled baobabs stand sentinel around every corner, squat and silent witnesses to the changing fortunes of the region’s human and animal inhabitants.
Mapungubwe is one of South Africa’s most evocative protected spaces, beckoning to intrepid travellers and promising a journey of discovery.
Mapungubwe National Park
Situated in the northernmost reaches of South Africa against the border of Botswana and Zimbabwe, the relatively tiny 28,000-hectare Mapungubwe National Park safeguards a precious chunk of the country’s heritage. From the lush riverine forests and magnificent trees to the expansive savannahs and rugged sandstone formations, the park’s scenic beauty cannot be overstated. Its northern boundary is marked by the iconic Limpopo River, where visitors can stare out over its confluence with the Shashe River and marvel at the massive herds of elephants crossing between countries without care for international borders.
The “great grey-green, greasy Limpopo River”
To the north, across Kipling’s “great grey-green, greasy Limpopo River” on the Botswana side, lies the Northern Tuli Game Reserve (Tuli Block), which, in turn, is contiguous with Zimbabwe’s Tuli Circle Safari Area. The Venetia Limpopo Nature Reserve lies south of Mapungubwe, with Vhembe Game Reserve to the west and Mapesu Private Game Reserve to the southeast. These protected landscapes and several private properties in all three countries will form the cornerstone of the Greater Mapungubwe Transfrontier Conservation Area (GMTCA). The GMTCA is still under development, but when it reaches its full envisioned potential, it will conserve nearly 5,000 km2 (500,000 hectares) of unique and vital southern African wilderness.
The creation of the GMTCA should help to ensure that the conservation of Mapungubwe’s extravaganza of natural beauty and legendary wildlife will remain a priority. However, for most visitors, the park’s human history takes centre stage, as this remarkable sanctuary was once home to the oldest known kingdom in southern Africa. The Kingdom of Mapungubwe – its capital perched atop the golden ridges of Mapungubwe Hill – flourished just under a thousand years ago. Today, its remnants lie scattered across the landscape, offering tantalising clues into the lives of its occupants during a time of power and prestige.
Elephants cross the dry riverbeds at the confluence of the Limpopo and Shashe Rivers
Golden rhinos, lucrative trade, and lofty rulers
Though Mapungubwe, and the Mapungubwe Hill in particular, had long held a vital cultural significance to the area’s local people, its archaeological importance came to light in the 1930s when an excavation uncovered a treasure trove of artefacts. Over time, the findings revealed the rise and fall of a complex Iron Age society (some 5,000 people at the civilisation’s height) that occupied the region from around circa AD 900-1300. It soon became clear that the Kingdom of Mapungubwe had been a hub of trade and cultural exchange, with links to the Middle East, India and China via East African ports.
Among the most famous discoveries were gold and ivory objects, including an exquisite golden rhinoceros, which has become a symbol of the park and its history. This palm-sized artefact was delicately crafted (right down to the minute details of its ears, horn, and tail) from wood and covered in thin sheets of gold – a testament to the skill and artistry of its creator. Other finds included delicate ceramics, glass beads, and terracotta figurines.
The Mapungubwe Interpretation Centre
Exactly why the civilisation collapsed is a matter for some debate, with several theories ranging from changing climates to shifting trade routes posited. Whatever the reason, by the 14th century, the people of the Kingdom of Mapungubwe had moved on. Historians believe that the three best-known stone-walled kingdoms of southern Africa – Mapungubwe, Great Zimbabwe and Thulamela – were all connected, with people migrating first from Mapungubwe to Great Zimbabwe and then on to Thulamela over the centuries.
Today, the Mapungubwe Cultural Landscape is a Unesco World Heritage Site. Visitors to Mapungubwe can learn more about this fascinating period of South African history at the park’s Interpretation Centre. The centre’s unique architecture is a marvel in itself, while the museum displays inside include some of the original artefacts (and some replicas) and a wealth of information. A guided heritage walk to the top of Mapungubwe Hill, where the kingdom’s rulers once dwelled in a walled fortress, looking down on the “commoners” in the valleys below, is another must.
A lush baobab in leaf
Everything the light touches…
From the top of Mapungubwe Hill, looking down on a landscape painted in shades of ochre, green and gold, it is easy to imagine how the rulers of old must have felt about their precious realm. The kingdom’s people may be long gone, but the wildlife they shared their space with remains, much to the joy of eager safari-goers.
Sipping at the water’s edge
Though cultural curiosities typically eclipse wildlife viewing in this small national park, that is not to say that Mapungubwe is not an impressive safari destination in its own right. This is especially true as it lies between the arid habitats to the west and the moist Lowveld savannahs to the east, allowing for incredible variety and biodiversity. Elephants are everywhere in Mapungubwe, and every corner seems to reveal another special sighting, from breeding herds and young calves playing in the mud to placid old bulls napping in the shade of a baobab or nyala tree. The plains and mopane woodlands support a variety of antelope species, including massive eland, stately oryx, delicate impala and shy steenbok. Above them on the kopjes, nimble klipspringers leap from boulder to boulder, their hooves beautifully designed for life on the rocks.
Sandstone cliffs form striking backdrops throughout the park
Lucky visitors may even be fortunate enough to glimpse one of the park’s white rhinos or a leopard lounging in the forest. The park is also occasionally home to one of South Africa’s only free-ranging lion populations, who come and go from the park at will. Similarly, packs of African wild dogs (painted wolves) make rare but exhilarating appearances from time to time. And, of course, every wildlife encounter is made all the more special by the spectacular backdrop against which it unfolds, especially as the dry season sets in and animals are drawn to the banks of the Limpopo.
A young male takes respite from the heat of the day. Lions are occasionally spotted in the park
The skies above Mapungubwe are adorned with over 400 bird species, from vibrant bee-eaters to majestic raptors, creating a kaleidoscope of colours that dance in the African sunlight. The crags of the sandstone cliffs have attracted nesting pairs of majestic Verreaux’s eagles, while the dense foliage around the river offers the perfect habitat for Pel’s fishing owls. One of the best ways to experience bird life in the park is to set out across the wooden platforms of the treetop walkway. (It is important to note that though the Limpopo is never really grey-green or greasy, it can be significant and has been known to wash parts of the walkway occasionally – so check beforehand if the canopy is open).
The treetop walkway
Explore & stay in Mapungubwe
Mapungubwe National Park is both a premier national park and a time capsule, preserving South Africa’s timeless heritage for generations to come. It is a destination that offers the chance to delve into the annals of history, connect with the natural world, and gain a deeper appreciation for the continent’s diverse cultural tapestry. Though the park is small and could arguably be explored in a day, there is no question that a few days are needed to do it (and its story) justice.
There are a couple of camps, ranging from basic safari tent accommodation to relatively luxurious chalets, all of which are ideally positioned to take in some of the park’s diverse landscapes. There is also a well-maintained campsite for those looking for a fully immersive experience and more self-sufficient experience. Guided drives are offered, but visitors can self-drive around the park, though some routes are only accessible with a 4X4. Due to its more recent and controversial 20th-century history, the Mapungubwe is divided into eastern and western portions by a section of private property inaccessible to park guests. One has to exit the park to move between the two, but the drive is short and scenic.
The swimming pool at Mapungubwe’s main camp, Leokwe, often attracts thirsty elephants
Mapungubwe is situated in an arid and warm part of South Africa, and summer temperatures from October to April regularly top the mercury at over 45˚C. Most people prefer to visit during the dry winter from May until September, when the daytime temperatures are cooler, and wildlife viewing is most spectacular. However, those that tolerate heat well would be rewarded on a summer visit when the migratory birds arrive, and the rains have washed away the dust haze, accentuating the summer greens and spectacular scenery.
Resources
Botswana’s Tuli Block, also part of the Greater Mapungubwe Transfrontier Conservation Area, is a place where the wind carries stories of the past, whispering over rocks, around baobabs and across the vast wilderness. Read more about Tuli here.
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
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10 tuskers left in Amboseli? + Picture-perfect Liwonde
Our best photography prize ever? Entries are open for Photographer of the Year – our annual celebration of Africa’s awesomeness. And this year we tweaked things to grant our three winners the status of legitimate conservation heroes. They get to each sponsor a lion research collar (paid for by teamAG) and so play a practical role in the conservation of Africa’s free-roaming lions – a wonderful tribute to their photographic prowess! And they and their partners will join me on safari in Hwange, Zimbabwe to learn about lion conservation. Amongst other thoroughly fascinating experiences we will spend time with researchers and local rural people at the coalface of lion conservation.
AI-generated images are now a dime a dozen on social media – attracting adoring comments about the wonder of nature (rolls his eyes). Chubby-cheeked cherubs hugging quaffed lions compete for our attention with seriously accurate (but fake) renditions of wild animals. Our mission is to reflect the REAL AFRICA – warts and all. And that is why we will NOT permit AI-generated images in Photographer of the Year. They are not photographs – it’s as simple as that. Using artificial intelligence in your post-production work on photographs is permitted if the result faithfully represents the original scene (AI is already integrated into most post-production software). See our competition rules here. Search your archives and enter now – and perhaps join me in Hwange to make a real difference at ground zero!
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Will the Garden Route’s lone female elephant soon have a herd? She goes by many names – including Ou Poot, Strange Foot, and Matriarch – but to most she is known as THE Knysna Elephant. The single female elephant has existed as a ghost in Knysna’s forests and fynbos, South Africa, for many years, and is the only female elephant in the world known to exist in the wild completely by herself.
Camera trap and ecological studies have helped us learn more about her (see more in the video below). Worryingly, her stress levels are abnormally high – likely as she’s under chronic stress from being alone, and becomes more strained when sensing humans are near. But recent studies conducted by SANParks support the re-introduction of more elephants to the area. Watch this space!
Now to East Africa’s elephants, where the integrity of Amboseli’s elephant population is in jeopardy, and the super tusker population is down to about 10. Read about the hunting of A THIRD elephant in Enduimet, and what YOU can do about this, below. In further developments, Amboseli Trust for Elephants has positively identified the first hunted bull as Gilgil, a breeding elephant aged 35, who would have just been entering his prime reproductive years. Our sources confirm that Gilgil was a 100-pounder. See more in our story…
Lastly, don’t miss our story on Kingsley Holgate’s expedition to picture-perfect Liwonde.
Experience Congo-Brazzaville’s Odzala-Kokoua National Park, one of Africa’s oldest parks and the ideal destination for your bucket-list gorilla-trekking safari. Luxurious camps, dense rainforests, peaceful river activities and habituated western lowland gorillas await. In this 9-day safari, you’ll also search for forest elephants, bongos, dwarf crocodiles, vast flocks of grey parrots and green pigeons – and much more.
This Rwandan gorilla-trekking adventure will take you through pristine afro-montane forests packed with golden monkeys, colourful Rwenzori turacos and prehistoric three-horned chameleons. And, of course, the star of your safari is a silverback mountain gorilla, accompanied by his family – spotted in the depths of paradise.
Do you have a friend who wants to go on an African safari? Refer them to Africa Geographic, and you’ll help protect lion populations in Africa.
Here’s how:
If a person you refer to AG books a safari with us, both of you will be added to an AG lion COALITION, and AG will donate $250 towards the satellite collaring of a lion.
Each satellite collar costs $2,500 – this means that once the COALITION reaches ten referrals – raising enough to purchase a collar – we finalise that COALITION and start building the next one.
Once that COALITION’s lion has been identified and collared, each COALITION member (including you) receives general updates from the research team about the lion – secure in the knowledge that they have made a decisive contribution to the ongoing survival of Africa’s free-roaming wild lions.
WATCH: Learn more about the local extinction of Knysna’s elephants, the last elephant in the Knysna Forest, and the work being done to save her. (07:14) Click here to watch
It’s Day 85 of this Afrika Odyssey expedition. We’re now feeling the pace, as we hug the shores of Lake Malawi to reach Liwonde National Park, the seventh park of the southern Africa chapter of our trip. Jack Johnson’s moody Times like these plays over the Defender sound system – so much memory-lane stuff swirling around in our heads. Today, Lake Malawi is as calm as a millpond, but it isn’t always so.
Ross’s voice comes over the radio: “Remember when we were hit by that storm going across the lake?” He’s referring to our dangerous 14-hour crossing of Lake Malawi during a previous expedition to track the entire length of the Great African Rift Valley. It had been a nightmare of bailing and throwing up, as the captain of the hopelessly overloaded wooden dhow (he’d taken on too many passengers, some of them mums with tiny babies – very reckless) struggled with only a small outboard to keep the boat’s prow into the wind, as massive waves threatened to capsize us. An argument had broken out – some of the passengers wanted to turn back. “Masadandaule – be calm, don’t complain!” the captain had urged. He knew that if we turned, the boat could broach and that would be the end.
“Never ever!” had shouted Shova Mike, our expedition mountain biking veteran, as we jumped ashore in the dark and staggered onto a baobab-ringed beach on Likoma Island. Pulling on an imaginary cigar and putting on a posh accent, he’d intoned, “Never ever, in the history of this vast inland sea, have so many seasick passengers been pushed by so few horsepower, across such dangerous waters!”
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
That journey had taken us all the way down Lake Malawi and Lake Malombe to the Shire River, Liwonde National Park’s lifeline, and beyond. Now, ten years on, we’re back and Liwonde is even better. The birdlife is unbelievable, and buffalo, sable antelope and dusty elephant herds come down to the river to drink. Pods of hippos everywhere, waterbuck galore and fantastic lion sightings.
A lion spotted in Liwonde
It’s great to reconnect with park manager Dave Robertson and his wife Erica, who we know from their days in Zululand. Together with their Liwonde team, we gather for welcome sundowners on the banks of the Shire, which, thanks to Cyclone Freddy’s double deluge, has become a lake.
Park manager Dave Robertson with the expedition calabash
It’s time again for the calabash ceremony, and Dave wades into shallows. We couldn’t have asked for a more magnificent scene; the sun setting behind tall Borassus palms, a fat full moon rising over the Chinguni Hills, hippos grunting and a small herd of elephants swimming across the river. It proves to be one of the most iconic images of the expedition thus far.
Dave Robertson and the Liwonde anti-poaching unit
It is a picture-perfect postcard of a park, and once again, we’re reminded that thanks to African Parks and the Malawi government, Liwonde has been pulled back from the brink of destruction to become the Big 5 success it now is. Over the past seven years, cheetah, lion and wild dog have been reintroduced, along with critically endangered black rhino in one of the largest international translocations in history. Fish stocks in the park’s 30km stretch of the Shire River are increasing rapidly and, with the return of predators, vultures have made a welcome comeback. Liwonde has now become the source for major wildlife relocations. Not only for some of the 500 elephants that went to Nkhotakota, but numerous other species have also been moved to other Malawian parks from Nkhotakota.
Cheetah have been successfully reintroduced into the park
It’s always great to get stories from the people on the ground. High-spirited field guide Nelson Chikwewa tells us that, when he was a boy, the elephants were always breaking out, there was terrible human-wildlife conflict, poachers were doing as they pleased (even coming in from Mozambique with guns), and elephant poaching was rampant. With Nelson at the wheel, we meander through large glades of tall cathedral mopanes and gnarled, grey baobabs. We pass an armed ranger on a motorbike. “Since African Parks took over in August 2015, there’s been proper law enforcement. Mr Lawrence, our field operations manager, and his team are doing an excellent job,” says Nelson with a big grin. “Over 50,000 snares have been removed, and they have controlled the poaching. We must be one of the best parks in Africa now!”
Elephants grazing in the Shire River
We smile knowingly. Lawrence Munro is an old friend. He and I worked together for years fighting rhino poaching and jointly started the Zululand Anti-Poaching Airwing. He’s still greatly admired in Zululand; undoubtedly, African Parks attracts the best people.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? You can plan and book your African Parks safari to Liwonde National Park and other parks by clicking here.
As Lawrence is on leave, we feel a practical joke is in order – expeditions are fuelled by good humour. He’s known as a stickler for military-style neatness, with everything precisely in its place. So, with Dave and Erica as willing co-conspirators, we shoot a video clip of Sheelagh, unrecognisable in a ranger’s gilly suit, apple-pieing Lawrence’s immaculate office! We all get the giggles imagining Lawrence’s horrified expression when he sees the video of some camouflaged stranger sitting at his messed-up desk. (A couple of weeks later, Sheelagh gets a two-word WhatsApp: ‘You Rat!’)
The Liwonde team pose on the banks of the Shire River
Over a million people live around Liwonde and, as with the other African Parks-managed wildlife reserves we’ve visited, the dedication to their neighbours is inspiring. With community manager Matias Elisa at the helm, we first visit the park’s environmental education centre for conservation work with kids. The park has established 94 wildlife clubs and literacy programmes in the surrounding schools, and children are regularly transported in the Liwonde game-viewing bus to spend fun-filled educational days at kids’ camps, as well as game drives with Liwonde guides. There’s a hugely popular Chipembere (rhino) Football League, a ‘Goat Pass On’ project that provides extra protein to families, monthly Umuganda community clean-up days, and busy irrigation schemes that grow acres of vegetables. Thousands of wood-efficient stoves have been distributed to reduce wood and charcoal consumption. The Spicy Farmers chilli growing project has also been a major success, resulting in a big drop in elephant breakouts.
Liwonde environmental education officer Susan Chimbaza writes her message in the Scroll; Liwonde ranger guide Nelson Chikwewa loves educating children about conservation
Our visit is not just about Liwonde, though. Dave says that in 2018, the Malawian government extended African Parks’ mandate to include the adjoining Mangochi Forest Reserve, so increasing the park’s footprint by 60%. There’s no direct link road yet, so it’s a long drive that loops north, close to the Mozambique border. En route to Mangochi, we stop at the park’s Honey with Heart project, where we meet beaming Clement Mnandi and his team. “Beekeeping is an alternative to poaching, charcoal, firewood and logging. This project empowers 580 beekeepers and benefits 3,500 households,” Clement tells us proudly. McCormick Phiri, one of the beekeepers, says he’s done well enough to buy a new motorbike and Anafi Mdala is, despite a clubfoot, one of the best honey producers. It certainly takes ‘heart’.
We’re joined by Meiring Smit, Mangochi’s young and energetic field operations manager, who’s done a great job of constructing a new ranger camp, airstrip and office. Meiring and a small team were also responsible for building plank bridges and cutting a steep, sinuous 4×4 track by hand to the top of Mangochi Mountain. In first and second gear, we growl and wind upwards through the pristine forests to reach the ruins of Fort Mangochi. “Your Defender is the first ever to reach this point,” Meiring says as, under the fort’s imposing walls, we munch a tailgate lunch of Erica’s home-baked bread and leftover nyama from the jolly braai of the night before. The fort’s strategic and picturesque location on the mountaintop offers breathtaking views of Mangochi’s valleys and plains that stretch towards Mozambique.
The view across Mangochi Forest Reserve
“With its unspoiled forests, a breeding population of leopards and unique bird and butterfly species, Mangochi is a crucial extension of Liwonde. Once the fencing is complete, it will provide extra space for elephants and other wildlife – and it has great potential for adventure tourism,” Dave says excitedly.
Kingsley and the Liwonde team pore over the Scroll of Peace & Goodwill
The following morning, as we watch three bull elephants lazily feeding in the gardens of the park’s HQ, Dave comes hurrying towards us, carrying the Africa Parks Scroll of Peace & Goodwill. He’s spent the night thinking carefully about his message of hope for Africa’s wildlife and wild spaces:
“Liwonde is an extraordinary piece of old Africa, with its slow Shire River full of crocs and hippos, and ancient baobabs … Mangochi is a forest wonderland, steeped in history with soaring granite outcrops above steeply wooded slopes and crystal clear streams. Together, they form an incredibly diverse complex that is under significant and increasing pressure – yet we have hope.
The Cambridge dictionary defines ‘Hope’ as wanting something to happen, or to be true, and usually having a good reason to think that it might. In African Parks and the dedicated men and women of the organisation, we have that good reason! Our hope is not naïve, or blind to the challenges and obstacles ahead; but we will persevere and ensure this remarkable place continues to thrive and that the communities are better off for the park’s existence, with dignity and mutual respect.”
It’s a powerful salute to this peaceful place – the poachers’ guns now thankfully silenced – where life still plays out to the rhythms and pace of wild Mama Afrika.
Sheelagh (second from right) poses with the Liwonde team, along with the expedition calabash
We’ll be ending the Malawian chapter of this Afrika Odyssey expedition at Majete Wildlife Reserve, the place where African Parks’ story began 20 years ago. It’s a bit of a pilgrimage; we’ve been looking forward to it for months, and the excitement is high.
Kingsley catches up on note-taking during a quiet moment
Resources
Liwonde National Park is an exceptional safari destination, revived from the brink of destruction & now a key protected area in Malawi. Read more about Liwonde here.
Amboseli elephants roaming Amboseli National Park, with Mt Kilimanjaro tucked behind clouds. Amboseli’s super tuskers are down to 10
Update 23/04/2024: We can confirm that two more large-tusked elephants have been trophy hunted in Tanzania near the Kenya border. A fourth elephant was hunted in Enduimet on 11 April – likely from the Amboseli elephant population. A fifth elephant was hunted in Longido, to the west of Enduimet, during the week of 14 April. The hunts were allegedly conducted by the same hunting outfitter that hunted previous elephants in the area and involved high profile members of Tanzania’s hunting fraternity. Our sources advise that unscrupulous outfitters are willing to violate the moratorium on hunting along the Kenya/Tanzania border, with no regard for the precarious state of Amboseli’s dwindling super tusker population. Meanwhile, those with detailed information are on lockdown, nervous to reveal details for fear of persecution – while petitions to the Tanzanian government fall on deaf ears.
Update 28/03/2024: Africa Geographic is now able to share photos taken shortly after the first trophy hunt that took place in Enduimet, showing the carcass and tusks of super tusker Gilgil. In the first image, Gilgil’s carcass can clearly be seen, and in the second, the tusks, removed from the carcass (measuring 99 pounds and 110 pound), are visible.
The carcass of super tusker Gilgil, trophy hunted in Enduimet; and Gilgil’s tusks after being removed from the carcass. The men pictured here were not members of the hunting party
Update 14/03/2024:Amboseli Trust for Elephants has positively identified the first trophy-hunted bull as Gilgil, a breeding elephant aged 35, who would have been approaching his prime reproductive years. Male elephants reach their prime breeding years at or about 40 years. Our sources confirm Gilgil was a ‘100-pounder’, with one tusk weighing 99 pounds and the other 110 pounds.
Amboseli tuskers down to 10 as trophy hunters operate in stealth mode
12 March 2024 – A third elephant hunted last week in the Enduimet area of Tanzania, within 40km of the Kenya/Tanzania border, has amplified the debate around hunting free-roaming cross-border elephant populations and super tuskers and driven a wedge between segments of the hunting community. With another three hunting licenses granted for elephant hunts in this region in the coming months, the integrity of the Amboseli elephant population is in jeopardy.
Following these legal hunts, about 10 super tuskers are left in the Amboseli Ecosystem, according to Big Life Foundation. This ecosystem encompasses land on either side of the Tanzania/Kenya border, including Amboseli National Park and surrounding conservancies in Kenya, as well as the Enduimet Wildlife Management Area and beyond in Tanzania.
The Amboseli elephant population includes well-known super tuskers (elephants with one or both tusks weighing over 100-pounds) such as Craig, Esau, Tee-Jay, Michael and One Ton – famous super tuskers that attract thousands of tourists yearly. Hunting is illegal in Kenya, but these elephants are vulnerable to trophy hunting when crossing into Tanzania, where hunting elephants with a license is legal.
Super tusker Craig in Amboseli National Park
In January, Africa Geographic broke the news that two super tuskers were hunted in the Enduimet area, close to the Kenyan border, in the latter half of 2023, sparking division within the hunting community and outrage outside of it. On 1 March this year, Africa Geographic received unconfirmed reports that a third elephant had been hunted in the Enduimet region. Shortly after this, news of the hunt started circulating on social media. On 11 March, Big Life Foundation released a statement confirming that a third elephant had been hunted. The statement noted that the elephant’s carcass was also burnt (as with the first two hunts), making identifying the specific elephant impossible. The tusk size of the third hunted elephant is unknown.
Elephant Voices, Big Life Foundation and Amboseli Trust for Elephants have released a Joint Statement on the Amboseli Elephants calling for the protection of this cross-border population and raising concerns about the granting of three further elephant-hunting licenses. These organisations are calling for the reinstatement of a moratorium on hunting in the border region, which has been in place since 1995:
“Our position is that the Amboseli cross-border population should be protected from trophy hunting because it is unique and highly valuable as a scientific base of knowledge of elephants. In addition, it represents one of the last gene pools for large tusks. A successful moratorium held for 30 years.… We appeal to the Tanzanian and Kenyan governments to work together to protect this cross-border population, to recognise its immense scientific value and to ensure that these treasured elephants are not the target of trophy hunters.”
All 2,000 elephants in the Amboseli elephant population are known, as they have been closely studied by the Amboseli Elephant Research Project (AERP) for 51 years.
“There are 63 elephant families in the Amboseli population, of which 17 families, consisting of 365 members, regularly spend time in Tanzania. In addition, approximately 30 adult male elephants, over the age of 25 years, use the Enduimet area and beyond in Tanzania as part of their home range,” says the Joint Statement. “For half a century, Enduimet has been a favourite area for a particular set of adult males who use it as part of their ‘bull area’, which is an area they use when they are bulking up for their next reproductively active period.”
Other stakeholders are also pushing for Tanzania to reinstate the cross-border agreement with Kenya to protect these elephants, with a petition on Change.org calling for signatures.
“Male elephants grow throughout their lifetime, as do their tusks.… By selecting older individuals, hunters not only have a damaging effect on elephant lives and society, but are negatively influencing the genetic future of the Amboseli population, not to mention the ecosystem’s tourism potential,” says the Joint Statement. Big Life added in their own statement, that “old bulls are not past their reproductive prime, as hunters contend. Research has shown that elephant bulls only reproduce consistently by age 40, by which time 75% of them will have died. So older bulls are in fact disproportionately important for breeding.”
Meanwhile, the African Professional Hunters Association has warned its members not to share photos on social media of hunted species that will “inflame public opinion”, and not to “deliberately market” any areas as “bordering non-hunting areas”. “The reality is that there are certain elephant bulls that we simply must avoid a confrontation with.… As to ignore such could come at grave cost to the entire act of elephant hunting,” reads the letter to members.
Since the killing of the third elephant, Africa Geographic has consulted with sources close to the hunt. While confirming that an elephant was shot in Enduimet, most sources refused to be named or provide documentation for fear of their safety. However, speculation on the identity of the hunting company and hunters involved is rife, with one prominent Texan hunter openly posting details of daily hunting activities in Enduimet on social media during the same period that the third elephant was shot. In the days following the killing of the elephant, he made his Instagram account private and has been inactive since. According to Instagram posts from the hunting party, the individuals were operating on a 21-day hunting license and killed at least 19 other animals during this period, including spotted hyenas, Patterson’s eland, Grant’s gazelle, gerenuk, Kirk’s dik-dik, lesser kudu, as well as wildebeest and zebra for “bait for a cat hunt”.
Various statements from within the trophy hunting industry, including the statement by Tanzanian spokesperson Michel Mantheakis addressed to Africa Geographic, indicate that there is a rising trend amongst a small faction of the industry for concealing these hunts targeting super tuskers rather than moving away from hunting them.
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Kingsley Holgate in Nkhotakota + saving cranes
Last weekend, I attended a joyous event that renewed my faith in local conservation efforts. A particularly beneficial 2,364 hectares of privately owned land has been added to Timbavati in the Greater Kruger – consolidating the significant conservation success of this wonderful Big 5 private nature reserve that shares an unfenced border with Kruger National Park. We watched as Wiggill and de Vos family members cut the wire fence that has, since I can remember, prevented wildlife from accessing an extensive stretch of the Klaserie River. Research projects have commenced to measure the impact on biodiversity and large trees as elephants move in to utilise what was forbidden fruit.
Meanwhile, a short distance away at my home, the warthog boars have started lip-clacking, heralding the start of the rut. The loud metallic clacking goes on for hours as the tunnel-vision gents follow the sows, nose to tail. Unfortunately the rainy season has been disappointing; some bushwillow trees are already turning orange, and the sparse grass has withered to straw. Are we in for a harsh dry season ahead?
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
And now for more news worth celebrating: A bird thought to be lost to science has been rediscovered in the cloud forests of the Democratic Republic of Congo. Not just one, but 18 yellow-crested helmetshrikes reappeared in bright yellow helmeted glory, chattering away in the trees, to a herpetology team from the University of Texas – who were exploring the forests on the mountain of the Itombwe Massif. The helmetshrike, which has not been seen in two decades, is endemic to the western slopes of the Albertine Rift. And the cherry on top? The discovery provides further motivation to drive the protection of these tropical forests from mining and logging.
Below, read about Kingsley Holgate’s expedition to Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve, and learn about the intricacies of crane conservation in South Africa’s wetlands.
This iconic 8-day safari combines the wildlife riches of Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park with the awe-inspiring majesty of Victoria Falls. First, you’ll visit Khwai to get your predator fix, then move on to Chobe to witness massive herds of elephants and other wildlife along the banks of the Chobe River. Last but not least, the grand finale: witnessing the mighty Zambezi River plunging into the misty gorges below at Zimbabwe’s iconic Victoria Falls.
This is the glamping safari of your dreams: six days in the intoxicating Okavango Delta on a fully catered mobile safari. You’ll be led by experienced guides while exploring Khwai Community Concession and Moremi Game Reserve. Go in search of the big cats and wild dogs in the dry woodlands and floodplains, and glide silently down meandering waterways in a mokoro to find hippos, elephants and avian candy.
Have you entered our Photographer of the Year 2024 yet? Submit your photos showcasing the exceptional biodiversity of Africa – from its oceans and lakes to its forests, savannahs, and grasslands. Share your photos featuring Africa’s incredible wildlife, diverse cultures and breathtaking landscapes, and you may become a winner. Don’t forget to check out the awesome prizes on offer – an impactful conservation safari and personal sponsorship of a lion research collar for each of our three winners. We look forward to seeing your submissions!
WATCH: Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve is Malawi’s oldest and largest reserve – encompassing 1,800km² of wild and rugged terrain. It extends east from the edge of the escarpment of the Great Rift Valley to just short of the shoreline of Lake Malawi. It is the ideal playground for hikers, mountain bikers and wilderness-seekers. Nkhotakota is Africa at her most raw and beautiful, removed from the indignities of mass commercial tourism. (06:03) Click here to watch
We’re supposed to be quiet at Henry Nsamjama Hide in Nkhotakota, but Kingsley’s stomach is giving out a series of frightening gurgles and groans. We get the giggles. “Must be worms, or that massive breakfast they served at the Environmental Centre,” he says with a grimace. “There’s a worm dose in the first aid kit,” Ross says helpfully, as the tummy gives out a particularly loud trumpeting sound. “Shhh – you’ll scare the elephants.” There follows a long, drawn-out jumbo-like rumble. We can smell and hear them in the forest…but then we realise it’s Kingsley again, and the elephants are quickly gone, disappearing like grey ghosts – too much competition! Sheelagh Antrobus shares news from the road.
A pair of hamerkops head-bob on the water’s edge as if in a whisper just audible above the Beard’s stomach growlings. We discuss how they are a close relative of the shoebills we’d recently seen in Bangweulu Wetlands. We watch a herd of roan antelope, kudu, waterbuck and a magnificent ebony-black male sable with huge scimitar horns walk serenely across the forest-fringed grasslands. Scenes like this would have been impossible 10 years ago.
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
It’s been called ‘one of the world’s largest restoration efforts.’ Nestled beneath the Chipata Mountain, a vast network of rivers weave through the wooded hills and dense miombo forests that make up Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve. First proclaimed in 1938, it is Malawi’s largest and was once home to 2,000+ elephants. But by 2012, years of ivory poaching had reduced the elephant population to a mere 100 animals, charcoal and logging were out of control and what was once a sanctuary for many wildlife species had diminished to a silent and empty forest. In 2015, the Malawian government joined forces with African Parks, and so began Nkhotakota’s journey of revival.
Fellow adventurers have an uncanny way of bumping into each other in the most unexpected of places. On a sandy track, we meet up with good Kiwi mate and keen conservationist Pete Eastwood, his brother Kevin and the lovely Adele. They’ve spent a few days here and scribble these words in the expedition Scroll:
“Nhotakota is a place of peace, tranquillity, pristine forests and friendly people, a Garden of Eden being restored with animals that once belonged here, and a reflection of what Malawi looked like a millennia ago.”
Kingsley with overlanders Kevin, Adele and Pete, who paused their journey to sign the Scroll
We’ve travelled this ‘Warm Heart of Africa’ many times before, most recently last year on our world-first – the transcontinental Hot Cape-Cold Cape expedition from Cape Aghulas on Africa’s southern tip to Nordkapp in Norway’s Arctic Circle in the new Land Rover Defenders. Over the years, we’ve seen first-hand the massive deforestation in this small country, caused by logging, charcoal, agriculture and population explosion. Now, as we get to explore Nkhotakota’s vast, still intact forests, we realise what a miracle of conservation it is that this piece of wilderness has not only survived but now has a new lease on life.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
It’s a Saturday afternoon but park manager David Nangoma is hard at work at their newly built HQ. The set-up is immaculate: graded roads, neat-as-a-pin workshops and fresh new signage give the sense of a place confidently being reborn. Smiling, cheerful, positive and with a playful sense of humour, we immediately warm to him. Raised in the Serengeti by his grandparents, David’s love for wildlife began at an early age. The afternoon hours speed past as he regales us with fascinating tales of both adversity and triumph – the greatest being 500 Elephants, the biggest and most successful elephant translocation in the world that took place in 2016-2017.
500 elephants were introduced into Nkhotakota between 2016 and 2017
This remarkable story had a two-fold mission: to restock Nkhotakota and reduce elephant overpopulation pressure on Malawi’s Liwonde National Park and Majete Wildlife Reserve. It’s easy to imagine the massive scale of it all; swarms of helicopters, teams of rangers, wildlife vets, game capture experts and volunteers including Prince Harry, big cranes and long convoys of flat-bed trucks transporting 500 elephants 350km by road across Malawi to Nkhotakota, along with 2,000 other animals. Then last year, a further 800 animals were reintroduced. In just seven years, this green jewel has been transformed into a thriving haven for wildlife and a tourism asset for the people of Malawi.
Kingsley examines the poaching material used to construct the elephant sculpture, named “Problem”
Nkhotakota’s environmental education centre is arguably the best we’ve ever seen – a work of art designed in the shape of an elephant. Along with the colourful and descriptive murals and information boards, conference centre and restaurant (great grub and friendly staff) the other main attraction is a life-sized elephant statue called ‘Problem’. Constructed from wire snares and jagged-tooth saw blades confiscated from illegal loggers, and dozens of poachers’ homemade firearms of every type, shape and bore, it epitomises the struggle that Nkhotakota’s elephants and other wildlife have endured.
David Nangoma holds the expedition’s Zulu calabash, having topped it up with water from the Bua River, and the “talking stick”, with the Nkhotakota team in the background
David is rightly proud of Nkhotakota’s transformation but reminds us that community education and awareness are key to the park’s survival: “If conservation education isn’t inculcated at a young age, children will grow up with a mindset that every animal is only a food source, and trees are only good for fuel. But if they learn early, they will become long-term ambassadors for Africa’s wildlife,” he says as we walk down a steep footpath to the Bua River, Nkhotakota’s principal water course. In a spectacular setting of rapids, pools, thick forest and elephant tracks crisscrossing the sandy banks, David – looking carefully out for crocs (“there are some monsters here”) – balances on the rocks to add a symbolic splash to the expedition’s Zulu calabash.
Nkhotakota’s principal watercourse, the Bua River, hosts some monster crocodiles
Timothy Maseku, Nkhotakota’s community extension manager, tells us that the park now provides hundreds of jobs, and thousands of people living on the boundaries benefit from income-generating projects such as beekeeping, dried-mango processing, chilli farming and irrigation. Schools and wildlife clubs have planted a whopping 100,000 trees and community members are regularly allowed into the park to harvest mushrooms, bamboo, thatching grass and medicinal herbs.
Community projects around Nkhotakota have been helping to reforest the park by planting trees
With Timothy and his energetic team, we roll up at a community school for a fun morning of conservation education and a wildlife art competition. The kids overcome their shyness to recite their wildlife-themed poetry, before swarming around the expedition Defenders for an impromptu geography lesson, using the Afrika Odyssey map printed on the bonnet. Then, at an African Parks-built community clinic that cares for hundreds of households, we’re able to provide eye tests and reading glasses to grannies and grandpas, and in a campaign supported by Land Rover, malaria prevention education and mosquito nets for pregnant women and mums with young children. What a great vibe – dancing, singing, and appreciating the good neighbourliness coming from the park.
Children from the communities on Nkhotakota’s boundary take part in the conservation art competition
Our base camp is at the tented Nkhotakota youth hostel inside the reserve. To the timeless sounds of an African night, Jacob Kwakwala talks animatedly about his work. “32 kids at a time from the surrounding communities come and stay here every weekend – it’s all about learning and seeing the wildlife. This camp and our education centre provide unforgettable memories, key to unlocking children’s understanding of the need to protect the environment.”
On our last morning, we’re astonished to find a huge crowd waiting at the park’s HQ – it seems everyone has turned out to say farewell: David and the management team, tough-looking rangers, Timothy and his community crew, staff from the Education Centre, even workshop mechanics. All insist on writing personalised messages of hope for Africa’s conservation in the expedition scroll and posing for a jolly team photo. We leave to cheerful shouts of “Zikomo Kwambiri – come back soon!”
Nkhotakota’s rangers line up to sign the expedition Scroll
What’s been achieved here at Nkhotakota in just 7 years is incredible. As we turn the expedition Defenders south down the shores of Lake Malawi, the words of Peter Fearnhead (CEO of African Parks) come to mind: “Seldom do we hear good news about elephants in Africa. This successful translocation was a pivotal moment for Malawi, which has emerged as a leader in African elephant conservation and park restoration. Rehoming 500 elephants and knowing they will thrive in Nkhotakota is a story of hope and survival, and a real example of what is possible with good collaboration.”
Wattled cranes rely on wetlands and grasslands for survival – linking them to the human populations that depend on these ecosystems
Wattled cranes are the largest crane species in Africa; globally Vulnerable but Critically Endangered in South Africa and Ethiopia. They rely on wetlands for breeding, and natural grasslands account for 75% of their breeding territory. It is, in fact, these characteristics of the wattled crane breeding biology that most significantly tie humanity to wattled cranes. Endangered Wildlife Trust’s Lara Jordan reports
In South Africa, the wattled crane population has declined by 35% over 20 years, leading to the population falling to numbers as low as 131 in 1995. In a water-scarce country like South Africa, wetlands play a crucial role through the storage, purification, stream-flow regulation and recharging of groundwater. All Earth’s creatures rely on natural water mechanisms (such as wetlands and rivers) for survival. But in South Africa, 35–50% of wetlands have been lost. In KwaZulu-Natal, the stronghold of South Africa’s wattled crane population, an estimated 50% of wetlands were lost between the 1950s and early 1980s. The loss of these wetlands is ascribed to damming, draining, afforestation, overgrazing, road building, siltation, and water abstraction. As the South African human population continues to increase, so too will water demands.
Occupying a complex space
Unfortunately, natural grasslands come under similar pressure as wetlands: only 2.8% of all grasslands are protected. Moreover, 65% of grasslands in South Africa have been irreversibly transformed through maize, sunflowers, sorghum, and wheat production. The mining industry, urban development, and rural sprawl are destroying vast areas of intact grasslands. These impacts, combined with the degradation of the biodiversity of grasslands through overgrazing, poor management, and lack of resources, are contributing to the increasing pressure on wattled cranes.
The mesic grasslands in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands and Southern Drakensberg, where wattled cranes breed, require a specific management practice. Mesic grasslands occur in higher rainfall areas, where fires and grazing are meant to maintain landscape biodiversity. The climate in these regions consists of low precipitation, allowing grasslands to thrive. Good management of these grasslands mirrors natural ecosystem processes, so land users will burn in winter to allow for diverse new growth. Likewise, managing grazing livestock on these lands is a vital balance between climate, correct stocking density and limiting the time livestock is fed on an area. Limiting this time imitates the migration of antelope such as eland over this land.
Wattled cranes are winter breeders, and it is in this complex space that we find them successfully breeding. Disturbance at wattled crane nest sites impacts the breeding success of the species, and if landscape-management practices are not sensitive to breeding birds, then the success of the nest is unlikely. As wattled cranes primarily breed on farmlands, they depend entirely on the goodwill of landowners and farmers.
Wattled cranes living alongside their domestic land sharers
Preserving wattled crane habitat
Over the last three decades, conservation efforts have focused on preserving wattled crane nest sites by working with land users and farmers to develop sustainable practices. Through these efforts, we have observed a steadily increasing trend for wattled cranes within KwaZulu-Natal. In 2020, we recorded the most significant population count – of 399 wattled cranes – as part of an annual aerial survey. These surveys are conducted by the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT)/International Crane Foundation Partnership, the EWT/Eskom Strategic Partnership and Ezemvelo KwaZulu-Natal Wildlife (the provincial conservation authority).
A wattled-crane chick rescue before the necessary wetland and grassland burn
During this time, we have collected many success stories of our work. We have supported farmers by protecting an egg or a chick during the necessary winter burns. In these areas we have prevented further landscape degradation by helping farmers place the land into Biodiversity Stewardship Schemes, and helped farmers turn these tracts of land into nature reserves. We have worked with farmers to remove fences in which wattled cranes have been caught. We have engaged with communities to share the value of the species. We have educated communities on why feral dogs are a threat to cranes. This nest-by-nest approach may seem to be a slow method of increasing a population. Still, it is now a proven technique, and with only an estimated 81 nesting territories in KwaZulu-Natal, every nest site matters. Advancements to the monitoring repertoire include satellite transmitters on wattled cranes to understand their movement. Understanding the non-breeding birds that account for 50% of the wattled crane population is important. Furthermore, understanding the species’ habitat preference and their nesting, foraging, and roosting requirements is vital to ensure a habitable landscape remains for the species.
Wattled crane nesting territory against the backdrop of a rural community where feral dogs harassed the birds at the nest site
It was the Greek philosopher Heraclitus who was quoted saying, “Everything changes, nothing stands still”. This is an astute observation for these post-Covid times. Costs are increasing – especially fuel costs – causing the cost of food to increase. The war in Russia has impacted fertiliser costs, further increasing food prices. Farming is changing to keep up with costs, and land ownership is changing due to economic challenges. The culmination of these impacts has increased the workload for conservationists who must develop new relationships as land changes ownership, to maintain the work being done in the home range of wattled cranes. This vital nest-to-nest monitoring will remain a prominent part of wattled crane conservation to mitigate threats – and needs to be maintained.
As we look into the future, new threats that far exceed the scale previously utilised for wattled crane conservation are emerging. Avian influenza and malaria can severely impact the population of wattled cranes. The changing distribution patterns of diseases – which evolve due to climate change – will have to be monitored across South Africa due to the high movement patterns of fowl. This will need to form part of a national, if not international, effort.
Wattled cranes rely entirely on the goodwill of landowners and farmers for survival
Wattled cranes and water
The increase in floods and droughts that are affecting South Africa impact people AND wildlife. These extreme conditions impact wattled crane chick survival and could further reduce breeding success for the species. Yet, we are fortunate that wattled crane needs are aligned with the needs and desires of the human population. We require water, and so do the cranes. This will not change. The conversion of wetlands to dams with the correct research and technical input could provide nesting territories, supporting the species’ population growth.
Protecting wetlands benefits cranes – and it also protects people in the face of climatic extremes. Intact wetlands can help control flooding and contribute to water resilience during droughts. Similarly, grasslands are a vital grazing resource for commercial and subsistence farmers. Appropriate grassland and wetland management is a skill that needs to be learned to maximise stock production, whilst preserving the grasslands over the long term.
Wattled cranes are dependent on wetlands for nesting. This chick, just a few days old, can swim across to the nest site, where it is protected from predators
Predicted climate change for South Africa will likely cause a shift in the production of maize in the core wattled-crane home range. As other areas become too dry or too prone to drought, we expect to see an increase in the conversion of grasslands to maize lands in the Midlands and Southern Drakensberg. Maize is the staple diet for many South Africans. More conversion of grasslands to cultivated fields will cause a new decline in the population of wattled cranes. The South African human population is 60.41 million and is expected to increase to 62.90 million by 2025. Invariably, the increase in human population will worsen current pressures on wattled cranes. So, perhaps the biggest threat to wattled cranes in South Africa is the increasing demand for food for a rising population. Add to this climatic changes, which cause agricultural needs to expand within the home range of the wattled cranes. The future of cranes rests in the uncertainty of this space.
Researchers have uncovered a looming extinction crisis for Africa’s birds of prey, painting a grim picture for the continent’s raptors. Read more here.
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Our CEO tackles hunting chairman + Photographer of the Year OPEN
I wrote the open letter below with huge reluctance. We (all of us) have better things to do than respond to public attacks on our integrity, and yet here we are.
We were going to ignore the rambling ideological sermon aimed at AG a few weeks ago, but after numerous nudges from far and wide we changed tack. Urgh, I hated every second of the writing process – some written deep in the Congo rainforest where we marvelled at the magnificent wildlife and enjoyed the company of welcoming locals. There is so much to celebrate, and here I am wasting precious energy on this relic industry from a bygone era. Yet someone has to stand up to this stuff, and inject common sense and factual accuracy into a topic that is smothered in layers of misinformation.
On a more important note, how are you? Every Wednesday morning when I sit on the verandah with my mug of coffee and envisage my thoughts for today’s newsletter, I feel a huge sense of companionship and shared passion. Thank you
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
We are SO EXCITED to announce that Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for entries TODAY – see more details below. Villiers Steyn’s photo gallery from Chitake Springs, also below, will help provide photo inspiration.
On a more sombre note, South Africa’s rhino poaching stats for 2023 show a concerning increase in rhinos lost. 499 rhinos were poached in 2023 – an 11% rise in poaching. And while there has been a decrease in rhinos poached from the Kruger National Park, poachers have now turned to KwaZulu-Natal’s Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park, which bore the brunt of the losses – 307 last year. Government will need to better support anti-poaching initiatives and NGOs to tip the scales in the rhinos’ favour. We provide a full report on the Kruger rhino population every year – to be updated soon, once detailed figures are available.
Looking for a unique safari experience? Check out our art safaris, where Africa’s wildlife will inspire your creative talents. Whether you’re a passionate beginner or a seasoned creator, these popular safaris guided by a professional artist will nurture your soul.
Buffalo Ridge Safari Lodge in malaria-free Big 5 Madikwe Game Reserve, South Africa, will serve as your home base. Enjoy morning and afternoon game drives, attend daytime art workshops and sketch wildlife in the best setting possible. 12–19 September 2024 – only 1 spot left!
Soak up the atmosphere of the Big 5 Timbavati Private Nature Reserve in the Greater Kruger, South Africa and channel it into artistry! 21–27 September 2024 – only 1 spot left!
Dust off your cameras because Photographer of the Year 2024 is here! Start searching your photo collections for that phenomenal image. We’re looking for your photos that celebrate Africa and capture the continent’s splendour, from wildlife action and landscapes to African culture and safari experiences.
WATCH: Photographer of the Year 2024 promises to go down in history as the best one ever! We have extraordinary prizes on offer – including the chance to contribute to lion conservation in Hwange. Find out more and take inspiration from last year’s entries by watching this video. Start sending your entries now! (01:29) Click here to watch
I first heard of Chitake Springs when I was seven years old. The place where lions live in gangs, not prides, and where buffalo herds are so big, they kick up dust clouds that darken the skies. Fast forward 34 years, and Chitake Springs is much the same. Instead of daydreaming about it, I’ve just dusted off my camera after spending eight unforgettable days there leading a photographic safari for Africa Geographic.
As the crow flies, Chitake Springs lies approximately 50km from the Zambezi River in Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools National Park. Unlike the rich flood plains along the Zambezi, where relaxed elephant bulls and packs of curious African wild dogs pose in an iconic blue haze, the Chitake River habitat is much more rugged. Massive sausage trees, wild mangos and Zambezi figs line the edge of the riverbed, while ancient baobabs tower over the burnt orange landscape like sentinels. And fresh water bubbles up right throughout the year from the white sand in the river below. This water attracts thirsty buffalo and the hungry lions that hunt them. While exploring the area on foot, however, we learnt that it’s also the lifeblood for myriad other species.
The fresh water of Chitake Springs bubbles up from white sands in the river, attracting animals to drink
During our trip, we camped in the dense riverine thicket alongside the Chitake River downstream from the spring itself. Each morning at 5.30 am, I was woken by the cheerful song of a white-browed robin-chat, followed by the footsteps of professional guide Carl Nicholson, who ensured that no dangerous animals were lurking nearby. Tropical boubous and crested guinea fowl soon joined the dawn chorus while we sipped freshly brewed ‘moerkoffie’ around the fire.
We left our campsite on foot at sunrise, following the well-used elephant paths in the riverbed upstream towards the spring. The camp’s resident troop of baboons usually accompanied us, thankfully less interested in our leftover toast than they were in the fresh elephant dung scattered in the sand. Their antics made for some stunning golden-hour photographs.
Depending on the direction and distance of the lion roars he had heard at night, Carl would choose different vantage points on the riverbank to scan the surroundings. We hoped to spot Hollywood, the biggest of three adult males, or any of the other 17-odd pride members that call Chitake home, and we weren’t disappointed. The only thing we saw more than the lions were their tracks, which crisscrossed the riverbed each morning. Luckily, Carl is an expert tracker, and more often than not, we followed him over the freshest set to Lion Triangle, a sunlit shelf close to where the river bends sharply that has become a favourite resting place for the lions.
It’s up to here that the water from the spring trickles before disappearing beneath the sand again, and, photographically speaking, it was my favourite spot. When there were no lions nearby, we lay flat on our stomachs in the sand, waiting for vibrant flocks of Lilian’s lovebirds to swoop in and quench their thirst right in front of us. On several occasions, impalas would also come down, providing more amazing ground-level photographic opportunities.
Around 9 am, our backup guide, Manu, would meet us at a fig tree overlooking the spring, loaded with coffee, tea and camping chairs. We’d usually sit until eleven, hoping a large herd of buffalo would come thundering down one of the many dusty chutes surrounding the spring. Since they drink at any time of the day, it’s a gamble, and twice we just missed them – once leaving an hour before they drank and another time arriving ten minutes too late.
On our second-to-last morning, however, luck was on our side. We were staking out the water when we heard the characteristic chirps of red-billed oxpeckers, followed by deep grunts and the dull thudding of heavy hooves. We quickly chose a safe spot from which to photograph the action and watched as more than two hundred buffalo stampeded down into the riverbed, briefly disappearing in their dust cloud before nearly draining the spring dry.
The springs attract massive herds of buffalo
Around midday, we gathered under a colossal sausage tree in the centre of camp. We recounted such memorable moments while feasting on freshly baked bread rolls loaded with gooseberry jam before settling into a shady spot to pass the hot September afternoons. This was also an excellent time to look for seldom-seen birds like eastern nicators, red-throated twinspots and Livingstone’s fly-catchers, all of which are residents at Chitake.
Since it was too hot to walk in the afternoons, we typically took a short game drive around 4 pm each afternoon. On more than one occasion, we found lions resting in trees, supposedly to get respite from the relentless heat and tsetse flies. We returned to camp shortly after sunset each evening, when herds of ghostly elephants slowly made their way to the water. The only thing more remarkable than their silent footsteps was Carl’s sixth sense, which ensured we saw them before they strolled past our campsite. Why they drink almost exclusively at night at Chitake remains a mystery.
With an empty bucket shower and a full belly, I went to bed each night to the haunting soundtrack of spotted hyenas and the roars of Hollywood and his brothers. I felt like a child again, and like seven-year-old me on safari, I wished for The Sandman to come early so I could wake up again to the song of the white-browed robin-chat and another day in this wild and extraordinary place.
Sipping freshly brewed ‘moerkoffie’ around the fireHeading down to the springs to search for photographic opportunitiesHerds of impalas drinking at the springs provide amazing ground-level photosAn eastern nicator entertains guests near the tents during the heat of the dayThe party encountered members of Chitake’s 17-odd lion pride regularly“On more than one occasion, we found lions resting in trees, supposedly to get respite from the relentless heat and tsetse flies.”The photographers lay flat in the sand, waiting for vibrant flocks of Lilian’s lovebirds to visit the springs“The only thing we saw more than the lions were their tracks.”Gridlocks of buffalos would often visit to drain the fresh waters of the springsA side-striped jackal taking time out in the heatSpotting cubs near the springs was a treatThe group would wait daily for buffalos to head down the dusty chutes to the watersHeading out along the riverbed in search of the day’s treasures
Join Villiers on a photographic safari
Villiers Steyn and Africa Geographic will be leading a photographic safari from 20-28 September 2024 – this time to Mana Pools, Zimbabwe. You’ll immerse yourself in the best that Mana Pools has to offer – from floodplains to valley – and enjoy excellent photographic opportunities and guidance. Only two spaces left! To book this8-night safari for $9,322pps, contact our travel team here. (This safari does not go to Chitake Springs. To check out a safari to Chitake Springs, click here).
BACKGROUND: We approached Michel Mantheakis – chairman of the Tanzanian Hunting Operators Association (TAHOA) – before publishing our report on the recent trophy hunting of super tuskers in Tanzania. We requested that he provide specific information and context so that our report would be accurate and contextual. He acknowledged our request and undertook to respond but failed to reply thereafter. Other experts were happy to reply to our questions. Once our report went live, Mantheakis compiled this letter, which he circulated widely. We requested evidence of his claims in this letter, and he undertook to provide those but failed again to do so. Our CEO, Simon Espley, responds.
Dear Mr Mantheakis
I am responding with reluctance after advice and requests from several corners, including members of the trophy hunting industry who seem embarrassed by your actions. I fact-check your claims below, but first, this:
You were recommended to us by a highly regarded member of the Tanzanian conservation industry as the ideal person to help us understand the facts behind the trophy hunts referred to above. And so, during our research, we emailed you in good faith in your capacity as chairman of TAHOA. We hoped that you would provide the required input and help us maintain our 32-year tradition of accurate reporting on these sensitive matters.
Our request to you was for the specifics related to these hunts. Yet, your public response after our report was a generic ideological sermon, complete with misinformation, unsubstantiated claims and cheap shots aimed at Africa Geographic.
Our report provided verified facts about the two hunts alongside necessary context and input from respected conservation experts. You were given the opportunity to be part of that equation, but you chose to abstain. Instead, you chose to deflect from the topic and inject anger and bitterness. Surely you can see that your approach is not conducive to much-needed constructive engagement and problem-solving? We remain open to constructive dialogue if you decide to provide facts specific to these hunts.
Important context:
Judging by your letter, you do not represent the broader hunting industry. There are examples of trophy hunting industry operators in open ecosystems who play significant roles in ecosystem and biodiversity conservation. There are also numerous examples of hunting in private reserves and fenced farms, which provide conservation benefits. Timbavati Private Nature Reserve (mentioned by you) is a good example. The sector of hunting that you ostensibly represent surgically removes certain FREE-ROAMING animals with sought-after traits and seems bereft of scientific rigour and moral compass. This distinction we make between the various aspects of the broader hunting industry is essential if we are to weed out harmful practices.
Your letter suggests that you hold the key to wildlife conservation outside of national parks – that others, such as NGOs, scientists, researchers and the photographic tourism industry – are de facto irrelevant. Your choice of words is exclusive, not inclusive, and the arrogance of your claims beggars belief.
Our journey is different. We believe in transparency, accountability and constructive dialogue amongst all parties to find practical science-based solutions to today’s reality – burgeoning human populations and massive threats to biodiversity and ecosystems. That’s why we requested your input into these specific hunts. If you require further information about our methodology,refer to our manifesto.
Now, to correct the misinformation in your letter:
1. Your words:
“The Tanzania Tourist Hunting industry is 130 years old, and it has been well-regulated throughout its existence. It is recognized as the only viable form of land use in game reserves and areas with wildlife outside the National Parks and the Ngorongoro Conservation Area.”
“Hunting concessions currently comprise of 260,677 sq km which is 29% of Tanzania’s surface area, hence a much larger area than the 113,621 sq km that National Parks cover which is only 12% of Tanzania’s surface area.”
“I am proud to say that most hunting companies in Tanzania operate their own anti-poaching programs in cooperation with the TAWA at a huge annual cost, to safeguard all the natural resources and wildlife within their hunting concessions to safeguard their business interests.”
FACT CHECK:
You have only presented one side of the coin – the shiny side. Your industry abandoned 110 out of 154 Tanzanian hunting zones in which you had exclusive use – because they were no longer profitable for trophy hunting. That’s 140,000 km² of land – that could’ve benefitted conservation – lost. This land was utilised by the trophy hunting industry you hold in such high esteem – and then abandoned once depleted. This abandoned land no longer contains trophy animals and is being reduced to rack and ruin – playing host to poaching, mining, logging and other harmful activities. That you proudly trumpet the land still being hunted as an example of a “viable” and “well-regulated” industry and ignore the elephant in the room speaks volumes. This pro-hunting article highlights the reality facing the trophy hunting industry in Tanzania. And yet you claim that all is well in your industry …
2. Your words:
“… anti-hunting publications like Africa Geographic. You are not transparent or a balanced media and have a reputation for always twisting the truth to fit your anti-hunting narratives, that only benefits your business interests.”
FACT CHECK:
We emphasise factual accuracy and science, which we acknowledge inconveniences those with an ideological approach. Please educate yourself by visiting our website and typing in the word ‘hunting’ in the search bar. Amongst others, you will find the following interesting articles that help provide information and context behind the hunting industry – telling both sides of the story:
“ You… will not even comment positively on any of the anti-poaching efforts that are funded largely by hunting revenue in the same reserves and to the benefit of the photo tourism camps you promote, who also operate in the Timbavati.”
FACT CHECKS:
A. Your information about Timbavati is incorrect. As recently confirmed to me by a member of their Exco, their considerable anti-poaching efforts are now predominantly funded by photographic tourism, with trophy hunting playing an ever-reducing role.
B. Regarding your claim about my Timbavati writings, I refer you to my opinion editorial in response to misinformation in South African news media about trophy hunting in Timbavati. In this article, I make a strong call for fact-based reporting to replace headline baiting and misinformation.
4. Your words:
“Your anti-hunting activism is causing the loss of thousands of square kilometres per year of wildlife habitat in Tanzania and the illegal slaughter of more wildlife annually than ever taken by hunting.”
FACT CHECK:
As proven above, the Tanzanian trophy hunting industry has been shedding concessions due to overhunting and poor management. That you blame us and a coterie of organisations for this says enough about you and those you represent. If shining a light into dark corners in search of transparency and accountability translates as “anti-hunting” then you have a rocky road ahead. Blaming others will not win any battles against the many threats faced by the wildlife industries – habitat loss, poaching, human-wildlife conflict, and climate change, to name a few. The free-roaming resource is a fraction of what it was, and attitudes are changing. Human populations have expanded at significant environmental cost, and the planet can no longer afford the unfettered removal of diminishing populations of free-roaming animals with specific sought-after genetic traits. You behave like nothing has changed since the 1900s, which is foolish and unsustainable in the modern context. Perhaps you should consider handing over the reins to others who better understand the modern conservation landscape.
5. Your words:
“In Tanzania the CITES quota is only 50 elephant per year out of a population of over 60,0000, that is a very minimal quota of only 0.08% of a stable and growing population”
AND YET:
Our article covered the hunting of two super tuskers and expressed concern about the future of the remaining tiny population of super tuskers – estimated by elephant researchers at 50–100 across Africa. Your topic switch to Tanzania’s entire elephant population is a classic avoidance strategy. This blanket refusal to discuss details while continuing to broadcast misleading generic soundbites again speaks volumes about your strategy to avoid transparency and accountability.
6. Your words:
“2 legally hunted very old and past breeding bull elephant, taken last year, that brought great financial benefit to both the Government and local communities.”
AND YET:
We requested information from you about these two bulls and specifics about the benefits for local communities – to help explain the context to our audience. You did not provide that information. Transparency should lie at the core of any sustainable industry. The information vacuum you left has again been filled by rampant speculation on social media. That’s on you – don’t blame us or others for the consequences of your actions. If you were more transparent and accountable, the discussions would be more relevant and productive, and there would be less fodder for peddlers of misinformation.
CRUCIALLY:
Update 14/03/2024: Amboseli Trust for Elephants has positively identified the first trophy-hunted bull as Gilgil, a breeding elephant aged 35, who would have been approaching his prime reproductive years. Male elephants reach their prime breeding years at or about 40 years. Our sources confirm Gilgil was a ‘100-pounder’, with one tusk weighing 99 pounds and the other 110 pounds.
7. Your words:
“240 Tanzanians were killed by Elephant. Anybody who finds this irrelevant is unconscionable and has no moral authority to criticize Tanzania’s National conservation policy and efforts.”
AND YET:
This is a rather basic attempt at bait-and-switch. These two hunts we reported on had nothing to do with human-wildlife conflict, and the hunts were not to remove ‘problem animals’. On this occasion, our article does not address the terrible burden imposed on some of Africa’s rural people by dangerous animals. We cover this matter extensively on our website – here is an example: Life with Elephants. Please do not cheapen this important matter by attaching your flag to the human rights cause. The trophy hunting industry is hardly the poster child for human rights or skills uplifting and empowering Africa’s rural villagers.
8. Your words:
“You seem to think there is sinister wrongdoing in disposing of Elephant carcass by burning or burying it; however, in this part of Tanzania it is actually a very responsible conservation act to prevent pastoral people from poisoning the carcass, which if you had done your research, is commonly practiced in order to kill Lion, Leopard and Hyena that frequently prey on their livestock.”
AND YET:
We asked you to provide important contextual information about the burning of carcasses. Again, you did not. We were advised by several professional hunters – one associated with TAHOA – that this is a highly uncommon practice.
9. Your words:
“The anti-hunting community intentionally refuses to distinguish between Conservation-Based Hunting, which is a selective, sustainable and a legal tool of conservation, and poaching, which is an illegal and devastating criminal act.”
HERE’S THE THING:
Claiming to be “sustainable” does not make it so, no matter how loud you shout. What about the current situation makes you think what you do is sustainable? Trophy hunting of free-roaming animals is an extraction industry (like mining and hardwood logging), and any claim of sustainability has to be proven based on data. Show me accurate historic population stats of Tanzania’s target species (including large-tusked elephants as a genetic focus) compared to annual offtakes of each. If your industry were genuinely sustainable, you would not avoid providing these facts and details specific to each hunt.
In my considered opinion, if an activity further reduces the population of a species or genetic trait already in decline, then that activity is, by definition, not sustainable. Claiming that other factors contributing to population declines are ‘worse’ illustrates a lack of conservation thinking. That you insist on this ongoing veil of secrecy suggests that you are aware that your activities are not sustainable and hope to continue for as long as you can get away with it. In that way, I believe you do not represent the best interests of the broader hunting industry.
FINALLY
You speak of “working together” and us being “conservation partners”. We approached you in the spirit of that august goal. Yet you ignored our request for information that would have provided further accuracy and context. Instead, you chose to sully our name with a toxic mix of misinformation and condescending generalisations that have little relevance to Africa Geographic or the topic at hand – and which you refuse to back up with relevant evidence. That is not how partners behave. Your actions were cowardly and invidious – certainly not exemplary behaviour from the chairman of a respected trophy-hunting organisation.
I can’t help wondering what happened to that core trophy-hunting principle of FAIR CHASE. To recall the words of Cynthia Moss: “Shooting an Amboseli bull is about as sporting as shooting your neighbour’s poodle”. Is this what your sector of trophy hunting has been reduced to?
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
For the sake of transparency, this was our emailed request to you, sent on 29 December 2023 and acknowledged by you on 2 January 2024 (two points redacted as these are still under investigation):
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Raptors in crisis + Holgate in Bangweulu + Odzala-Kokoua adventure
Just in from Congo-Brazzaville – Odzala-Kokoua National Park to be precise. This was my first safari to west-Central Africa (unlike some in my team) and so many animals and birds we encountered were personal lifers, and the many and varied night sounds not easy to identify. The mouthwatering list of mammals we did not get to see – like potto, Lord Derby’s flying squirrel, elegant galago and long-tailed pangolin (to name a few) – means I will certainly be back. And then there are the extraordinary forest birds – we did not even scratch the surface.
What an adventure – from crashing our drone into a tributary of the Congo River (it survived after 5 minutes of underwater filming – including some very curious fish!) to an early morning two-hour bash through dense forest understory in the pitch dark to get to the remote Lokoue baï where we watched Western lowland gorillas feeding on tasty treats. Expect a travel diary in the not-too-distant future.
Did you know that Madagascar has reintroduced giant tortoises, that last wandered the island 600 years ago, to its shores? But that’s not the best part. Introducing these tortoises may be the key to restoring woodlands and limiting wildfires across Madagascar’s grasslands.
The project, which began in 2018 with a group brought in from Seychelles, aims to rewild Madagascar with thousands of the Aldabra giant tortoises. Historically, these tortoises were important ecosystem engineers in Madagascar, before they were wiped out by hunters. The tortoises feed on dry materials on the forest floor, mopping up the dry fuel that aids fires, and also disperse seeds in their droppings, aiding the proliferation of woodland habitat. The daring conservation strategy behind the reintroduction suggests the 350kg tortoises will help restore Madagascan forests, grassy woodlands and shrublands.
Don’t miss our stories this week on Kingsley Holgate’s expedition to Bangweulu Wetlands, and the dire situation of raptors in Africa, below.
We have two thrilling safaris lined up for those seeking a water-inspired introduction to some of Africa’s best destinations, including the tropical islands of São Tomé and Príncipe. Start planning your safari now
Blend the vibey coastal city of Cape Town and the nearby Winelands in South Africa with the safari wilderness of Botswana’s Okavango Delta. Two of Africa’s most popular destinations in one safari!
Experience the two magical islands of São Tomé and Príncipe.
Indulge in the natural, cultural and historical wonders of this one-of-a-kind nation and explore its other-worldly coastline by boat.
Safari report-back
Sharon Traeger and family recently enjoyed our Ultimate Primate Safari. The Traegers began their safari in Kigali and went on to seek out gorillas in Volcanoes NP (Rwanda) and Mgahinga Gorilla NP (Uganda). They then enjoyed a little beachside R&R on the “Rwandan Riviera” at Lake Kivu, before visiting Virunga NP (DRC) and Nyungwe NP (Rwanda). They wrapped up their safari with visits to Mafia Island and Dar es Salaam in Tanzania. Read why Sharon recommends this luxurious experience:
“We had a great experience with guidance from Christian from Africa Geographic. He helped us plan, customise, and experience the Ultimate Primate Safari. We saw gorillas, monkeys, chimpanzees, and whale sharks in their natural settings. Our wonderful guide, Gaston, helped us enjoy East Central Africa with personalised attention and care. Thank you for a truly memorable journey.”
WATCH: WildCRU’s Lion Guardians and Boma Project helps protect communities around Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe, from incidents of human-lion conflict through an innovative early warning system and the use of mobile bomas. The project’s Long Shields Guardian Programme employs and trains local men and women to protect villages from lions, safeguard cattle, and aid wildlife management. (05:47) Click here to watch
Behind us are Iona in Angola, Matusadona in Zimbabwe, and Liuwa Plain and Kafue national parks in Zambia, all of which have shared incredible stories of hope for Africa’s conservation and communities. It’s mid-afternoon by the time we swing onto the road that leads towards the Bangweulu Wetlands in north-eastern Zambia and down a narrow sand track lined with mud-and-thatch homesteads, cassava and maize fields, droves of cheerful, waving kids, heavily laden bicycles and roadrunner chickens.
Then, across rickety plank bridges and through swathes of elephant grass taller than the Defenders, in a race against the setting sun to reach a small, secretive lake called Waka Waka, hidden in the miombo woodlands.
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
Of bicycles and dugouts in Bangweulu
It is not our first time here. Around the campfire, we reminisce about a memory-lane expedition that some 20 years ago had taken us along this same route. With nyama sizzling on the coals and enamel mugs of sustenance, Ross reminds us of how, in those early days, we’d taken our battered old Landy 300 Tdi’s as far as possible into the swamps. The rains had just ended, and it was tough going, the wheels of the overloaded Landies spinning as we pushed, slid and winched through black mud to reach the vast open plains of Bangweulu. And then, in dugout canoes, on old ‘Made in India’ bicycles, and wading through the swamps on foot with a team of porters supplied by Chief Chiundaponde, we’d travelled through the constantly shifting channels and sandbanks.
Crossing the swamps with bicycles (Kingsley Holgate, left) and dugout canoes (Ross Holgate, right), 20 years ago
That night in our tent on the shores of Lake Waka Waka, listening to the sound of the wind sighing in the trees, I think back to how we’d camped at Chikuni Island out on the plains, and then crossed the river by the dugout to arrive at Chief Chitambo’s village.
A lifeline for wildlife
The next day, it’s a quick, early morning bowl of oats with honey and peanut butter, then a dash to meet the African Parks team now working to protect these vast Bangweulu Wetlands – a name in the Bembe language that means ‘where the water meets the sky’ – so vast it’s as if there’s no horizon. At the African Parks’ Nkondo headquarters, we’re met by engaging ethno-biologist Clemmie Borgstein and friendly camp dog Bullet.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? You can plan and book your African Parks safari to Bangweulu Wetlands and other parks by clicking here.
“Bangweulu is one of the most important wetlands in Africa, fed by 17 rivers and drained by just one,” Clemmie explains. “Its story starts in the hills of Lake Tanganyika, where the Chambeshi River streams out from the rocks and down to the Wetlands, delivering a seasonal flood that inundates the plains. The water rises through a shifting complex of channels until it is finally released into the Luapula River, which drains out of the swamps and curves in a great arc to feed into the Congo River system and eventually makes its way to the west coast of Africa to enter the Atlantic Ocean.”
Herds of black lechwe on the plains of Bangweulu
African Parks joined forces with six Community Resource Boards and Zambia’s Department of National Parks and Wildlife in 2008 to create the Bangweulu Wetlands Project. Since then, this community-owned protected area (not a national park) has become a lifeline for wildlife and 60,000-odd people who live within its boundaries and rely on its natural resources.
“This is home to the last significant population of black lechwe and over 400 bird species, including the rare shoebill, but what’s even more unique about Bangweulu is the interface between people and nature,” Clemmie continues. “We can’t lose this landscape to people – and we can’t lose the people to this landscape.”
A shoebill stretches out its wings in the swamps
Smiling, good-natured Lloyd Mulenga, Bangweulu’s community manager, is itching to get going. First up is a visit to the current Chief Chiundaponde to pay our respects and for His Excellency to endorse the expedition’s Scroll. The Chief is fascinated by the Defender 130s and insists on getting behind the wheel, all “ohs and aaahs…so much space” – until he spies the toy snake on our dashboard. He exits the Landy with a speed that belies his age, then doubles over with laughter when Ross assures him that it’s fake but very good at deflecting the interest of pesky traffic cops.
The people’s park of Bangweulu
The next stop is Mwushi Primary School; the teachers and children turn out in huge numbers and perform a comical skit, acting out the stalking walk of shoebill and the massing of black lechwe on the plains. They can’t take their eyes off Kingsley’s beard – after weeks of expedition life, it’s looking incredibly bushy – but only two are brave enough to take up the challenge of giving it a pull. The conservation art competition is a colourful success and it’s good to hear community leaders talking enthusiastically to the children about the importance of preserving the Bangweulu landscape.
In a big tent at the local clinic, we meet scores of poor-sighted elderly people who slowly filter in for eye tests and reading glasses; some brought on the back of bicycle taxis, others walking with the aid of grandchildren – as always, their appreciation is heartwarming.
Expedition members test the eyesight of members of the community for the Right to Sight campaign
Afterwards, we’re treated to a vibrant Bisa cultural event with a traditional lunch of catfish, cassava and chikanda (a polony-looking gastronomic delight made from the tubers of orchids and pounded groundnuts) and a drumbeating, gyrating ‘no-poaching’ song and dance performance; even the delightful midwife from the clinic jumps up and shakes her booty.
Ross Holgate and the African Parks team enjoy a lunch of catfish, cassava and chikanda at the Bisa cultural event
Bangweulu is a people’s-park, divided into swamps, vast plains and agricultural lands – it feels like time has stood still here. We’re keen to reach ‘where the water meets the sky’, so tackle a long dirt track through vibrant villages to reach the heart of the wetlands. Men in jackets and ties on bicycles and brightly dressed women in kangas and headscarves throng the road, many carrying plastic chairs to their simple mud-bricked, thatched-roof churches. Children shout greetings of ‘How are you-you-you?’ and the sounds of Sunday singing and harmony fill the air.
Good humour and a touch of madness
Our wild Nsobe Campsite is idyllic: a little island of trees on a large old antheap that, in the wet season, stands above the flooded plains, with just a simple circle of stones for a fireplace. The surrounding grassy plains are dotted with hundreds of gnome-like, grey termitariums. We dress up one solitary little fellow with a scarf, beanie, sunglasses and binoculars, name it ‘Norman No-mates’ and invite him around for a braai… our expeditions always run on good humour with a touch of madness!
Beyond our base camp, we’re ecstatic to see thousands of black lechwe and tsessebe amassed on the plains, with vast flocks of wattled cranes soaring and dipping like a synchronised aerial ballet. We learn that zebra, puku, waterbuck and buffalo have been re-introduced, the shy sitatunga, oribi and reedbuck are flourishing, and cheetah are back after a century’s absence. This is also the land of the elusive shoebill.
A cheetah tucks into its prey in Bangweulu
It’s not easy being a shoebill
Knowledgeable birding guide Webby Mweya takes us into the wetlands. Poling slowly through the extensive stands of papyrus, passing fishing villages, handwoven reed fish traps and chattering families navigating the channels in their narrow dugouts, we nose into a quiet backwater and find what we’ve been hoping for – one of Africa’s rarest and most curious birds. “Look!” says Webby with excitement. “You can see she is relaxed – eaten too many barbel fish! This shoebill’s name is Hope. She was rescued as a fledgling and then returned to the swamps by Maggie; you must meet her.”
“It’s not easy being a shoebill,” Webby remarks as we take a meandering route to the shoebill rehabilitation facility at Chikuni Island, the only one of its kind in the world. “Fire is a big threat to their nests; eagles and crocodiles take the eggs, and sometimes fishermen steal them. These birds are sought-after in the illegal bird trade. But we now have guards to watch the nests day and night.”
And so, we meet Maggie Hirschbauer, the dedicated shoebill researcher. Armed with a giant, muppet-like puppet, she greets us with “Shhhh!” This is a quiet zone; she doesn’t want the birds disturbed by noise. What follows is a fascinating glimpse into the secret life of shoebills. Just above a whisper, Maggie tells us that Bangweulu is their southernmost range, and there are no more than 8,000 birds left in the wild, existing in a handful of habitats between Zambia and South Sudan. Shoebills live for over 30 years but, as Maggie explains, they practice siblicide, so she removes the second egg and hatches it in an incubator when possible. Raising them isn’t easy either; to stop the chicks from getting used to humans, Maggie dresses in a dark ‘abaya’ and uses the shoebill puppet as a substitute parent.
Kingsley shares the Afrika Odyssey map with shoebill researcher, Maggie Hirschbauer
Silently, we get to observe three adult birds in their bomas; Maggie will release them when Zambia’s annual three-month fishing ban begins in December, and people leave the swamps. Walking to the edge of a channel, she slips off her shoes and wades in to add symbolic Bangweulu water to the expedition calabash, the fifth such ceremony of this Afrika Odyssey expedition.
Our minds stuffed with shoebill info, we wander back to camp through the herds of black lechwe and notice something strange. The air is full of flying spider webs – long, trailing strands of silk being blown by the wind that gets caught in the Defenders’ radio aerials like flying pennants. We stop to take a closer look. The grassy plains are covered in cobwebs, a shimmering sheen stretching as far as the eye can see, glowing gold and red in the rays of the setting sun. It’s stunningly beautiful and adds a special something to Bangweulu’s magic.
A seasonal flood inundates the plains of Bangweulu
The conservation economy of Bangweulu
Our last night is spent around the campfire with park manager Phil Minnaar and the Bangweulu community board members. Sprinkled with Phil’s entertaining bush pilot stories, we learn that the black lechwe population has recovered from 18,000 to over 40,000 today, fish stocks are increasing, poaching is under control, tourism numbers are on the rise and community enterprises (fisheries, honey production and lechwe off-takes) are generating more and more income for the Bangweulu people every year.
“When I arrived here, there were only three small stores in Chiundaponde village, and basic goods were in short supply; now, there are over 30 shops and other businesses, all driven by this conservation-based economy,” says Phil.
Camping at Nsobe Campsite
As the campfire burns low, Sheelagh opens the Scroll and reads Maggie’s heartfelt words:
“The shoebill… A massive flying creature that is utterly unique. Shy, sensitive, secretive, yet it carries a stature to intimidate even the strongest men. The shoebill is Bangweulu’s icon and flagship species because the land, water, community and bird are inextricably linked. If this habitat of vast open sky, fresh crystal-clear water, and variable vegetation of floating grasses, sedges, reeds, and papyrus suffer, if the fish dwindle, the shoebill will disappear – they have nowhere else to go. People, too, rely on this habitat; fishing is the largest economy in the region and forms the undercurrent of their culture. It has been my greatest privilege to know this species and see how the community living in these wetlands is engaging in their conservation. This continued involvement and spread of knowledge of the importance and rarity of these unique creatures will ultimately keep them alive for generations to come.”
It’s a poignant ending to a frenetic and fascinating few days in this ageless landscape. Ahead of us lies an exciting route to reach Malawi, country number four, on this journey to connect 22 African Parks-managed protected areas in 12 countries.
Researchers have uncovered a looming extinction crisis for African raptors
Imagine a world where iconic African raptor species like the secretarybird, Wahlberg’s eagle, African harrier-hawk and brown snake eagle, amongst others, are no longer around – vanished from the landscape. While this may sound like a doomsday prediction, without intervention, this might one day be a reality – especially in the west of the African continent.
In a stark revelation, an international team of researchers has uncovered a potential looming extinction crisis for Africa’s birds of prey, painting a grim picture of the reality faced by these magnificent savannah species. Long-term road surveys across parts of Africa revealed alarming declines in nearly 90% of the 42 raptor species studied, with more than two-thirds possibly qualifying as globally threatened.
The study, co-led by Dr Phil Shaw from the Centre for Biological Diversity at the University of St Andrews in the United Kingdom and Dr Darcy Ogada from the Peregrine Fund, used decades of road surveys across four African regions. The surveys entailed recording the abundance of raptors seen from the road in a stretch of 100 kilometers, and noting how these numbers changed over time. The study was conducted in West Africa (Burkina Faso, Niger and Mali), Central Africa (northern Cameroon), Kenya in East Africa and Botswana in Southern Africa. The study examined encounter rates between 1969 and 1995 and between 2000 and 2020.
Martin Odino, part of the research team, spots raptors in northern Kenya
The results show that larger raptor species have experienced particularly steep declines, especially in unprotected areas, where the birds are more susceptible to persecution and human pressure. Data showed that raptors have declined more than twice as fast outside protected areas, reiterating the urgent need for conservation efforts. Currently, only 14% of land on the African continent is formally protected, with sub-Saharan Africa experiencing the most severe rate of land degradation in the world.
Shaw expressed concern, stating that since the 1970s, extensive forest and savannah areas have been converted into farmland, intensifying threats to African raptors. With the human population projected to double in the next 35 years, the need to extend Africa’s protected area network is now greater than ever.
Ogada agreed with the sentiment. “Africa is at a crossroads in saving its magnificent birds of prey. In many areas, we have watched these species nearly disappear. One of Africa’s most iconic raptors, the secretarybird, is approaching extinction. There’s no single threat imperilling these birds; it’s a combination of many human-caused ones; in other words, we see deaths by a thousand cuts.” Their study was particularly challenging in some areas where a lack of raptor encounters made analyses difficult.
While the reality seems bleak for large raptors, the future is not much brighter for species previously listed as ‘Least Concern’ on the Global Red List. The research highlights the risk of raptors such as Wahlberg’s eagle, African hawk eagle, long-crested eagle, African harrier-hawk, brown snake eagle, and dark chanting goshawk becoming globally threatened.
Dark chanting goshawk
The late Dr Jean Marc Thiollay’s long-term monitoring efforts in West Africa laid the study’s foundation, revealing the high human footprint in the region. Many raptors unique to West Africa, like the Beaudouin’s snake-eagle, are slowly vanishing from the landscape.
The study highlighted the urgent need for habitat conservation, aligning with the Convention on Biological Diversity’s COP15 goal of expanding conservation areas to 30% by 2030. It calls for restoring natural habitats in unprotected areas, improved legislation for species protection, and increased public involvement in raptor conservation efforts.
Despite the daunting results, the study also spurred positive action, leading to the creation of the African Raptor Leadership Grant, with The Peregrine Fund Africa as one of 13 partners. The grant supports emerging African scientists, boosting local conservation initiatives and knowledge of raptors across the continent.
“We awarded the first grant to Joan Banda, a Zimbabwean studying the illegal trade of owls in markets in Nigeria. She is an MSc student at the A.P. Leventis Ornithological Research Institute in Nigeria,” says Ogada. Her study looks at the implications of the belief-based use of owls on populations in two regions in Nigeria. She has been administering questionnaires in villages near Important Bird Areas to understand community perceptions and the socio-economic drivers of the trade in owls and to determine the effects of this trade on local owl populations. “We look forward to hearing more about her study and its implications.”
Joan Banda discusses owls with village elders in Nigeria
The findings serve as a wake-up call for the dire state of Africa’s raptors, emphasising the need for swift and comprehensive conservation measures to secure the future of these vital species and the ecosystems they support.
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Reawakening Kafue + Photographer of the Year
How’s this for impactful photography! Our 2024 Photographer of the Year is particularly exciting for teamAG – a significant change to the previous editions of our popular competition. Each of our three winners gets to sponsor a lion research collar – in lieu of our previous cash prize. The US$2,500 cost per collar will be paid for by Africa Geographic. Plus, our winners and their partners will join Lizz and me on a conservation safari in Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park. In addition to many game drive G&T moments, we will get to understand the issues facing wild, free-roaming lions and what is being done by NGOs and local people to protect them. More details here. The 2024 edition of our Photographer of the Year kicks off on 1 March.
I am currently in the gobsmackingly wondrous Odzala-Kokoua National Park in Congo-Brazzaville with teamAG videographer Brendan. Our mission is to find and film Western lowland gorillas, forest elephants, bongos, dwarf crocodiles and huge flocks of grey parrots and green pigeons. African Parks is in the process of upgrading an existing forest camp to fully catered status and training local people to manage the camp. You too can be here – soon. Check this out to whet your appetite.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Here’s a riddle: My life is short. For the majority of my life, I’m not yet alive, and my species ceases to be. What am I?
The answer is fascinating.
The Madagascan Labord’s chameleon spends the majority of its life as an egg. Once hatched, the chameleon matures rapidly, reaching adulthood within two months and breeding quickly thereafter. Shortly after laying eggs, the females die, and not long after that, the males join them. That means that, for about seven months of the year, there are no members of the species alive on the planet – and the entire population exists in eggs buried underground. Just as fascinating, is the recent footage scientists captured of a female Labord’s chameleon rapidly deteriorating after laying her eggs, and dying in a flurry of colour. You can check out this footage in our video of the week, below. The moral of her story? Life is short. Find your purpose, pursue it with vigour, live life in colour, and glow before you go.
While you await the launch of Photographer of the Year 2024, check out the exceptional gallery of images from our 2023 winner, Remya Warrier, below. And read about the adventures of Kingsley Holgate’s Afrika Odyssey expedition to Kafue National Park.
Discover the Big 5, cheetahs and wild dogs of Majete Wildlife Reserve and its conservation successes, before unwinding on Lake Malawi’s tranquil white sand beaches and enjoying the water activities on offer. Seamlessly transition between these stunning locations for the perfect combo safari.
Omo Valley is one of Ethiopia’s most fascinating melting pots of tribal diversity. This ten-day cultural experience will offer you the unique opportunity to learn about the ancient customs of Ethiopia’s indigenous tribes. Join us and experience the wonders of this extraordinary region and its fascinating people.
Photographer of the Year 2024
Dust off your cameras because Photographer of the Year 2024 opens on 1 March, and the prizes are what dreams are made of! Start searching your archives for images that encompass the celebration of Africa.
In addition to having a lion research collar sponsored in their name, winners will be awarded a conservation safari, including stays at Camelthorn Lodge and Bomani Tented Camp in Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe, and a trip on the Elephant Express rail car. Sponsored by AG and Imvelo Safari Lodges and proudly in association with the Southern African Conservation Trust and WILDCRU.
WATCH: In this remarkable and rare footage, a Labord’s chameleon from Kirindy Forest, western Madagascar, erupts in a rainbow of colour – “as if uttering her last words” – moments before death. All the members of this species die before the dry season arrives – and the species survives through the hatching of eggs that are buried underground. (03:17) Click here to watch
Many of you will know that funny old saying: ‘How do you eat an elephant?’ Answer: One bite at a time. Nowhere is that more accurate when weighing up the monumental work going into restoring Kafue National Park in the heart of Zambia – and it’s only just begun. Sheelagh Antrobus shares news from the road.
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
Journey to Kafue
In Mongu, we fuel the big Defender 130s, resupply the grub-boxes and head east. It was some time ago that we last travelled this road. We’re stunned by the explosion of people, potholes and extraction out of the miombo woodlands: battered old trucks loading hundreds of big plastic-and-twine bags from endless charcoal stations, the air thick with smoke from charcoal kilns and massive piles of indigenous wood stacked on the roadside awaiting collection. It’s an incredibly distressing scene. Zambia is known to have one of the highest deforestation rates in the world, caused by many issues, and this region is one of the worst affected.
Piles of indigenous wood stacked on the roadside near Mongu, Zambia
200km later, it’s a relief to cross an invisible line into Kafue National Park. Suddenly, the trees and grasslands reappear, and the air clears, and we’re reminded why these wildlife areas are so important and must be protected. As night falls, we reach the park’s Chunga HQ and, somewhat exhausted from pothole-dodging, set up a basecamp on the banks of the beautiful Kafue River.
Camping in one of Kafue National Park’s campsites
There to meet us are park manager Craig Reid and his wife Andrea. Such kindred spirits – theirs is an exciting story to tell: born and bred in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa, they started their conservation lives in Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park, then set their sights on broader horizons and joined African Parks, beginning at Liuwa Plain in 2007 (it was Craig who reintroduced the lions and ended Lady Liuwa’s lonely existence). “That was before the tarred road from Mongu to Kalabo existed,” laughs Andrea. “I will never forget the long riverboat journeys we had to make across the Barotse floodplain to get supplies from Mongu – not easy when you’ve got two small children in tow!”
In 2010, they moved to Bangweulu Wetlands, spending four years in that remote northwest corner of Zambia, before moving to Liwonde National Park in Malawi 2015, African Parks’ newest management project. As we’ll soon be visiting both on this Afrika Odyssey expedition, we’re fascinated by their anecdotes of life in these vastly different wild regions, leading them to their greatest challenge yet.
The following day, Craig leads us into the park’s newly built Ops Centre – a double-storey, tennis court-sized building that hums with energy and intelligent technology. In one corner stands a display of confiscated poaching paraphernalia: wire snares, pangas, bicycles, axes, saws and firearms. “It’s there to remind us of the challenges we face daily. But I never thought I’d see the day we’d be managing parks from computer screens,” he remarks wryly, pointing to a vast, wall-mounted monitor that’s manned 24/7 and uses the EarthRanger programme to track wildlife and human movements throughout the expanse of the park. “It’s a game-changer and one we can’t do without if we’re going to restore Kafue.”
Lions are commonly encountered in Kafue
The beast that is Kafue
Craig outlines the problems that have beset Kafue over the years and the staggering amount of work now facing his newly formed 425-strong staff team. Like the size of Kafue, it’s challenging to comprehend.
“Kafue is a beast of a park,” he begins. “Proclaimed in 1950, it is Zambia’s oldest national park. At 2.4 million hectares, it is 500,000 hectares bigger than South Africa’s Kruger National Park. Suppose you include the nine Game Management Areas bordering the park. In that case, that’s almost 7 million hectares – and this greater Kafue ecosystem makes up 25% of the world’s largest transboundary conservation area, the Kavango-Zambezi TFCA, which stretches between Zambia, Angola and Namibia.”
It is massive. We’d felt the extent of it in 2015, when we’d travelled the entire length of the Park from the old railway line, sheds and steam engines at Mulubezi in the south to the Busanga Plains in the north, as part of an expedition to find the geographic centre of Africa deep in the rainforests of the Congo.
But for decades, Kafue existed in quiet despair as lack of funding and effective management allowed poaching and deforestation to take their toll on both landscape and wildlife. “When I flew over it for the first time, I couldn’t believe the well-worn bicycle tracks crisscrossing the park like highways, bringing supplies to established poaching and logging camps and carrying out bushmeat, charcoal and felled timber. It was an industrial-scale industry of destruction, much of it linked to illegal syndicates that stretch far beyond Zambia’s borders,” Craig says quietly, gazing at the floor-to-ceiling map of this national park that’s the size of Wales.
Our expedition team is, for once, at a loss for words. After a long silence, Ross asks, “How do you begin to fix this – at this scale?” It’s like a light going on. Craig grins, and our education into the work to reawaken this extraordinary ‘beast’ unfolds.
While there is still much work to be done in Kafue, wildlife such as cheetah are still present in the park
An exceptional tourist destination
“Fortunately,” Craig tells us, “huge tracts of Kafue’s wilderness still exist and, whilst heavily diminished, numbers of wildlife remain, including elephant, lion, leopard, wild dog and cheetah, the highest diversity of antelope species in Africa and over 500 bird species. There’s plenty to build on, and we also need to ensure that the Kafue River catchment area is protected. It is Lusaka’s water supply and an important ecosystem for various fish and amphibious species. Kafue has the potential to become an exceptional tourism destination in the next five to ten years and provide employment and long-term benefits to thousands of local people.”
Packs of endangered wild dogs (painted wolves) revel in the open space afforded by Kafue’s plains
Much has already been done since 2021 when the Zambian government invited African Parks to help resurrect Kafue National Park: over 2,000km roads graded, bridges repaired, water and power restored, aircraft hangers built, park offices and staff quarters revamped, and the state-of-the-art law enforcement centre constructed. Hundreds of jobs have been created, the park’s rangers and law enforcement teams intensively retrained, and a community education programme established.
Thanks to the strong partnership between Zambia’s Department of National Parks and Wildlife and African Parks, poaching and deforestation are on the decline, wildlife monitoring is back in place, plans are afoot to bring in thousands of wildebeest, zebra and buffalo to restore their numbers and there’s a long-term goal to reintroduce black rhino. There’s still a monumental amount of work to do; even so, we’re struck by the resolve and confidence of everyone we meet that Kafue NP will, in time, be restored to its former glory.
We spend a few action-packed days with the park’s community teams and a cheerful bunch of Stellenbosch university students (friends of Craig and Andrea’s children) who get fully involved in a vibrant conservation education day at the Chungu Primary School. We participate in a malaria-prevention programme at the park’s clinic, and in providing eye tests and reading glasses for elderly community residents. More pages in the Scroll are filled with positive messages of hope for conservation. Peter Indala (Department of National Parks and Wildlife Area Warden) is given the honour of adding symbolic Kafue River water to the expedition’s calabash.
Kafue ranger Gracious Siabasimbi writes a message in the expedition ScrollPeter Indala adds Kafue River water to the expedition’s calabashThe Kafue management team outside the park’s Chunga headquarters
Our evening campfires are jolly affairs, shared with some colourful characters: bush pilots, field operations managers, scientists, staff from AP’s Zambia office and community workers. All confirm that Craig, with his vast experience and quiet, determined manner, is the right man to lead the reawakening of this beast – and everyone agrees it’s just in the nick of time.
Bidding farewell to the Kafue HQ team, we head south to Lake Itezhi Tezhi – elephant, hippo and herds of puku, zebra, and impala graze peacefully on the shoreline. At Konkomoya Lodge, we’re greeted like long-lost friends by Andrea Porro and Catarina, a colourful Italian couple who’ve heard about our wildlife odyssey and insist on treating us to a great food and hospitality night. Andrea fell in love with Kafue 17 years ago and decided to leave his life as a graphic artist and photographer in Italy to rebuild Konkomoya into a wood-and-canvas place of beauty. He handcrafted much of the furnishings himself, and the walls are filled with his spectacular photographs of Kafue’s wildlife.
Andrea tells us he’s an artist, not a scientist. “I can’t give you the actual increase in game numbers, but something has happened here in the short time since African Parks took over the management of Kafue. You can see it in the behaviour of the wildlife; they’re calmer and seem to know they’re safe now. Even the leopards seem more chilled and unafraid – look at this.” He shows us a video clip of a leopard walking casually into the lodge’s dining area one evening, jumping onto the coffee table and sniffing at the wooden sculpture of a leopard beautifully handcrafted from small pieces of mopane by Pam Carr, daughter of Zambia’s legendary conservationist Norman Carr, who was Kafue’s Park Warden in the 50s.
We’d love to stay longer, but the Zen of Travel is calling; it’s time to point the two expeditions Defenders north – the next stop is the Bangweulu Wetlands. Thanks to all involved, this expedition to link all 22 African Parks-managed conservation areas across the continent is turning into a fascinating journey of purpose.
Capturing the winning photo for Africa Geographic’s Photographer of the Year 2023 was no mean feat for Remya Warrier. Her photo of a rain-soaked lion shaking its head to a backlit halo of water droplets created an otherworldly effect. Remya met the challenges of rapid movement and early morning light with skill, and her post-production edits created a dramatic yet moody image worthy of our award. “It’s all about learning to dance in the rain,” said Remya.
Remya is a passionate wildlife photographer, naturalist and conservationist from Kerala, India. Her childhood love of wildlife has taken her to various biodiversity hotspots around the world. In 2021, Remya moved to Maasai Mara, Kenya, to pursue her passion for wildlife photography and conservation initiatives.
In this gallery, we share a few of Remya’s favourite images. You can see more of Remya’s work on Instagram here.
“I am truly honoured to be awarded the Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year 2023. Thanks a lot to Africa Geographic for this recognition. I’m happy to be part of this great initiative for conservation and raising awareness,” says Remya.
Below, be mesmerised by Remya’s unique pursuit of capturing wildlife.
Queen Kaboso on the lookout for prey. “The harsh light of the afternoon snuck through the foliage, creating complementary glowing hotspots within the frame.” Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. Nikon D850 | 400mm | F/6.3 | 1/640 sec | ISO 400Dust storm. Taken amidst the harsh droughts in Amboseli. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. Nikon D4 | 290mm | F/8 | 1/1000 sec | ISO 400Cheetah silhouette at sunrise. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. Nikon D850 | 340mm | F/11 | 1/3,200 sec | ISO 125“This was one of the first images I took in Mashatu during my visit with Africa Geographic for the Photographer of the Year winner’s trip. Mashatu always holds a special place in my heart.” Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana. Nikon Z6ii | 270mm | F/5.6 | 1/100sec | ISO 400Photographer of the Year 2023 winning image: Soaked after an afternoon shower. “The rains in Mara open doors for some very unique and magical frames.” Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. Nikon D850 | 340mm | F/6.3 | 1/3,200 sec | ISO 1,250Hyena silhouette. “I have no words to describe how dramatic Mara sunrise and sunsets can be.” Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. Nikon D850 | 350mm | F/8 | 1/8,000 sec | ISO 200Portrait of lion. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. Nikon D850 | 400mm | F/7.1 | 1/4000 sec | ISO 800Black panther – that rare jewel of Africa. “It was a highly rewarding experience watching the hunting ability of this black panther – especially with its extra gift of nocturnal camouflage.” Laikipia, Kenya. Nikon Z6ii | 160mm | F/5.6 | 1/250 sec | ISO 16,000Rhino – a frame from Solio Ranch Conservancy, Kenya. Nikon D4 | 135mm | F/7.1 | 1/800 sec | ISO 200“Upon arrival we could hear the hooting and screaming of chimpanzees. There was a conflict between two groups. It was truly an experience to see how this group intimidated the intruders.” Kibale National Park, Uganda. Nikon Z6ii | 85mm | F/5.6 | 1/250 sec | ISO 10,000A sunset silhouette from Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, Botswana. “The desert habitat facilitates extraordinary sunset opportunities, especially as animals visit the waterholes just before dusk.” Nikon Z6ii | 80mm | F/6.3 | 1/40 sec | ISO 5000
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Drum roll please…
I am SO PROUD to introduce UKURI – Safari camps for responsible travellers – our new venture that will make a difference to rural people living in Africa’s remote wilderness areas far from the usual tourism hotspots. Ukuri is a booking platform for safari camps that offer real benefits for conservation and communities.
Ukuri’s first accommodation partner is AFRICAN PARKS – who have appointed Ukuri as their booking platform for lodges & campsites managed by them. 100% of tourism revenue earned by African Parks goes to conservation and local communities. African Parks plans to expand the accommodation options across their 22 protected areas in Africa – so watch this space. And we will add further camps outside of African Parks once Ukuri finds its feet.
Why? We want to help Africa’s rural people who live amongst wildlife see the value of wilderness. They will be motivated to conserve wild spaces & creatures if they share in the economic benefits.
Dave Wilson, Head of Commercial Development – African Parks had this to say: “We are excited to partner with Africa Geographic to help improve the marketing and reservations of our camps in the protected areas we manage. With this partnership, African Parks can increase revenue into the ecosystems and communities where it is most urgently needed.”
IF YOU ARE A SAFARI TRAVELLER: Visit the Ukuri website to find amazing places and accommodation options and to book your stay. Please share with your friends.
IF YOU ARE AN AGENT OR TOUR OPERATOR: Include African Parks lodges in your packages by registering as an Ukuri supplier. You can manage your own bookings online, or the Ukuri team will do so for you. Please share with your networks.
Ukuri /oo-KOO-ree / • noun
Ukuri means ‘truth’ or ‘authentic’ in the language of Kinyarwanda (spoken across central and east Africa)
This package is the one chance to flatten three bucket-list items in one epic safari – in one country! From searching for the Big 5 in Akagera NP – one of Africa’s conservation success stories – to the forests of Nyungwe National Park for chimpanzees, and Volcanoes NP for mountain gorillas. What more could you ask for? Aside from rare golden monkeys, the Kigali Genocide Memorial and more – which are also on offer during this safari.
WATCH: Ukuri offers safari camps for responsible travellers to Africa – that make a measureable difference to conservation and communities. Watch this short video showcasing what Ukuri is all about. (00:29) Click here to watch
Our journey to Liuwa Plain from Matusadona National Park follows the Zambezi Valley via ‘Mosi-oa-Tunya’ (the smoke that thunders). To resupply, we push on via the elephants of Chobe and into Katima Mulilo in Namibia’s Caprivi Strip, which is bordered by the Linyanti, Chobe, Cuando and Zambezi Rivers. Crossing into Zambia and dodging convoys of Copperbelt trucks making their way to Walvis Bay, there’s still that exciting sense of leaving the southern Africa orbit behind: we love the easy-going nature of the Zambian people and the anticipation of what lies ahead. The anticipation on our journey to Liuwa Plain is pulpable. Sheelagh Antrobus shares news from the road.
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
Singing across Sioma
We camp close to the base of the spectacular Sioma Ngonye Falls. Created by a basalt dyke that dams up the Zambezi, the falls form a broad crescent interrupted by rocky outcrops, creating a strikingly picturesque scene. Above Sioma Ngonye, stretching upstream towards Angola, is the vast Barotse floodplain and the river kingdom of the Lozi people. To get there in the old days was a great adventure of bad roads and ferry crossings, and you had to work at it. But now the old Senanga ferry that often broke down is no more, replaced by the new Sioma Bridge, which, if the wind is right, ‘sings’ as you cross it.
En-route to Liuwa Plain, the expedition team camped out near the base of the Sioma Ngonye Falls. Here, Kingsley catches a breather overlooking the swirling waters of the Zambezi
Barotseland is one of the most beautiful parts of the Zambezi and is well known for the Kuomboka Ceremony that has been taking place annually for over 300 years. That night, the wind blows cold; we huddle around the campfire as Ross knocks up his favourite chicken stew, and Kingsley, by the light of a headtorch, reads a note from an old expedition journal:
‘The Kuomboka is like something out of Cleopatra’s time on the Nile. When the annual flood waters arrive, the Barotse King… travels in his zebra-striped royal barge, the Nalikwanda, accompanied by 120 traditionally-dressed paddlers all rowing in perfect unison to the beat of the massive onboard royal drums and xylophones. Should a paddler, dressed in his finery of plumes and animal skins, miss a beat, he is unceremoniously tossed overboard amongst a flotilla of hundreds of dugout canoes and other boats, which escort the Royal Party to higher ground and the King’s palace at Limulunga, a short distance north of the bustling river port of Mongu.’
It’s no longer a long and challenging riverboat journey to cross the Barotse floodplains from Mongu; nowadays, there’s a raised 70km tarred road with a score of bridges that brings you to Kalabo – gateway to Liuwa Plain National Park, known for its spectacular gathering of blue wildebeest, the second largest wildebeest migration in Africa.
Liuwa Plain is known for its large gathering of blue wildebeest, and forms the site of the second largest wildebeest migration in Africa
Far from the madding crowd
It’s at Kalabo that the tarred road ends. Smiling, good-natured Felix Mayungo, Liuwa Plain’s community development manager, will escort us across the Luanginga River by ferry. “Please deflate your tyres; from now on, we will be in deep sand,” he says. So, to the hiss of escaping air, curious locals cluster around the route map printed on the bonnet of one of our Defender 130s for a quick ‘expedition briefing’ on this odyssey to link all 22 African Parks-managed areas in 12 countries across the continent. With clanking and grating, the ferry noses up to the bank and drops the two ramps.
Workshop mechanics in Liuwa Plain gather around to sign the expedition scroll
For the conservation-minded adventurer seeking to explore wild spaces far from the madding crowds, you should add Liuwa Plain National Park to your bucket list. Situated in western Zambia, these vast golden grasslands with 360-degree views, dotted with tree-islands, stretch between the Luanginga River to the west, the Luambimba River in the east, and of course, the Zambezi. With the arrival of the rains in December, the plains are transformed into a water wonderland of sparkling lagoons, vast herds of zebra, tsessebe, oribi, red lechwe, and, if you get your timing right, the second-largest migration of blue wildebeest in Africa.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Plan and book your African Parks safari to Liuwa Plain and other parks here.
Vast herds of zebra pepper the Liuwa Plain landscape
Across the Luanginga, the Defenders come into their own with a throaty growl, as in high-lift sand mode, we tackle the soft, deep, winding tracks across endless yellow grass plains. It’s incredibly beautiful and has a wonderful sense of wilderness, space and freedom. We’re entering a whole new world, extending for some 3,660km²: and what a transformation since we were last here, more than 20 years ago.
Navigating the soft sand tracks of Liuwa Plain in the expedition vehicles
The word Liuwa simply means ‘plain’. There’s a local legend that one Litunga (king) planted his walking stick on the plains, where it grew into a large Mutata tree, which can still be seen today. It is a magical paradise, especially when the wildebeest is massing on the plains and spring flowers carpet the white sand sea.
In 1890, the King of Barotseland appointed his people as custodians of this landscape. But, by the turn of this century, decades of unsustainable land use and poaching – especially during the 1975-2002 civil war in neighbouring Angola when soldiers poured into the park in pursuit of meat and money – caused a rapid decline in all species and reduced the lion population to just one lonely lioness.
With the arrival of the December rains, the plains are transformed into a water wonderland of sparkling lagoons
The Liuwa Plain legacy
In 2003, realising what was at stake, the Barotse Royal Establishment and Zambia’s Department of National Parks and Wildlife invited African Parks to help restore the legacy of Liuwa Plain, and with this came hope. Effective conservation law enforcement strategies were implemented to reduce bushmeat poaching, and sustainable land use and fish harvesting methods were introduced to the communities. Then, in 2008, a series of wildlife reintroductions were rolled out to restore species that once roamed the plains in abundance. First came lions, eland and buffalo to provide a healthy prey base for the growing predator populations. Today, the park is home to 47,000 wildebeest and thousands more antelope, large hyena clans, a thriving cheetah population, wild dogs and lions, and is a sanctuary for over 300 bird species.
Liuwa Plain hosts a thriving cheetah population
One expedition Defender behind the other, we follow meandering, deep sand tracks across the pancake-flat terrain. The scale is bewildering; the cloudless sky looms above like a massive dome as the horizon disappears over the Earth’s curvature. The sense of space, silence and freedom is blissful. We stop at the much-revered King’s Pool, where, by tradition, a percentage of fish caught here by the Liuwa Plain communities is given in tribute to the King of Barotseland. Catfish bubble and burp, saddlebill storks and wattled cranes take to the sky, African jacana scuttles across the water lilies, and a secretary bird stalks off into the distance.
Community members fishing in the national park More than 10,000 Lozi people live within the park’s boundaries.
Felix slips off his shoes and wades in to add a splash of symbolic water to the expedition’s calabash – a ceremony taking place at 22 special locations on this journey to link all African Parks-managed areas across the continent. Heading back to camp as the sun disappears in a fiery red ball, we’re thrilled to see the wild dog pack setting out on a hunt.
Felix Mayungo, Liuwa Plain’s community development manager, gathers water from the King’s Poll in the expedition calabash
“One of the beauties and unique qualities of Liuwa is the coexistence of people and wildlife,” Hickey Kalolekesha, the park’s Field Operations Manager, tells us. “All the chiefdoms have radio comms with us and keep us informed of wildlife movements and suspicious individuals entering the area. And the people say: ‘These are OUR wildebeest, OUR Lion.’…there’s an entrenched sense of ownership, and we all work together – community, government, traditional leaders – to protect this special place. The Liuwa landscape gets under your skin: the openness, the unusual sightings, the tranquillity and the happy people here – you can’t fake the Liuwa Smile,” he says with a big grin of his own.
The Liuwa Plain team
The park is now the largest employer in the region and provides critical education and health benefits to hundreds of community members. And there’s excellent work being done to help generate income from natural resources: beekeeping, honey processing, dried mango production and a busy fish-drying facility that even exports to the Congo. Over 200 children have received scholarships; more than 4,000 local farmers have benefitted from skills training. Because of the reintroduction of wild dogs, the park has also initiated a rabies-vaccination programme, and thousands of community dogs and cats are now safe from this deadly disease.
What’s also great for the overland adventurer are the opportunities to pitch your tent and throw out your bedroll at several community-owned wild campsites dotted across the plains, which generate tourism income for the Liuwa people.
The expedition team conduct an eye test on a local man, to provide him with a new pair of glasses – part of the humanitarian support that the team is providing along their route
In the shade of a 100-year-old mango tree, to the vibrant sounds of kids practising their poetry, singing and dancing for the annual Liuwa Drama Festival in which every community school competes (this year’s theme is ‘Against Wildfires’), we meet Area Chief Mundandwe. “Conservation isn’t new to us – it’s been part of our way of life for time immemorial,” the chief begins before telling us the poignant story of Lady Liuwa – the last lioness who’d lost her pride to hunters and poaching. “She was such a friendly lioness but so lonely that she would seek out human company. One of her favourite places was the thicket of trees where Mambeti, the daughter of a Lozi chief, was buried near the King’s Pool. There used to be many lions here: I remember as a child not being able to go to school sometimes because they were close by. So we, the community, were delighted when African Parks suggested reintroducing them. Lady Liuwa finally had a family again, and though she couldn’t breed, she helped raise a new generation of Liuwa Plain lions. She died of old age in 2017, and in our culture, we believe she was the spirit of Mambeti.”
Kingsley and Sheelagh with Chief Mundandawe
“My hope is that African Parks remains here for a very long time and there’s lots of goodwill to also incorporate the Game Management Area to the north-west of Liuwa, to give the wildebeest full protection on their migration,” says Chief Mundandwe before bidding us farewell. In the expedition’s Scroll, he writes: ‘All creatures were created for a purpose, and we are all inter-connected. Conservation is doing God’s work; it takes sacrifice but it’s our job to protect them.’
We loved our time at Liuwa: busy days working with the smiling communities, the generosity of spirit of the committed African Parks teams and the sense of endless space and solitude. Then comes a surprise gift: our final night is hosted by eclectic King Lewanika Lodge, named after the Litunga: hot showers, fluffy towels, warm blankets, and food not cooked over a smoky campfire! What a treat – made even more memorable as Godfrey and Elias, the lodge’s charismatic guides, at last light locate 10 of the park’s 17 lions engaging in a beautiful reunion of head-rubbing, tail-waving, purring delight. That night, the staff dressed in traditional costumes gave us a cultural enactment of music and dance from the 300-year-old Kuomboka ceremony.
‘What makes Liuwa so special is the equal respect given to the communities and wildlife alike,’ writes researcher Sarah Weiner in the expedition’s Scroll. ‘We are all one and the same, coexisting in this beautiful landscape. There is magic in the silence and the whispering wind; magic in the breathtaking sunrises that greet us in the mornings and the sunsets that put us to sleep each night.’
This Afrika Odyssey journey is about finding stories of hope for Africa’s wildlife and wild spaces. Our time at Liuwa Plain – so different, so full of conservation, community and culture – is no exception.
Back across the Luanginga ferry, we turn the Defenders towards the expedition’s next destination. It’s said to be the second largest park in the world, about the size of Wales, and it’s had a complicated past; I will keep you posted.
There are four extant species of the family Hyaenidae: aardwolf (Proteles cristata), brown hyena (Parahyaena brunnea), spotted hyena (Crocuta crocuta) and striped hyena (Hyaena hyaena). A recent review of scientific literature on Hyeanidae (analysing 907 papers) reveals the trends and gaps in the research on hyenas and other Hyaenidae species.
My first memory of a hyena comes from when I was six years old. My family lived in a research camp in the Okavango Delta, while my father was studying baboons. I woke up one night to the clamour of hyenas cackling and my mother shouting. Four spotted hyenas had barged through the reed door of the hut to see if they could get their jaws on my father’s uneaten supper (he was out watching baboons that night). My mom yelled at them and banged pots with a big spoon, putting them off their mission, so my first human-hyena conflict ended on a good note. We rescued most of the supper, and the hyenas fled from my spoon-wielding mother. However, hyenas generally get a bad rap, even though not all human-hyena interactions are negative.
When researchers recently set out to review scientific literature on Hyeanidae, they found a number of gaps in the research around various species, including in studies on the outcomes of human-Hyaenidae interactions.
A striped hyena photographed in Ol Pejeta Conservancy
Hyena in the eyes of the public
It is worth remembering that Hyaenidae species are important to ecosystems and are a big drawcard for tourists embarking on an African safari. They are also biodiversity indicators, but there are also negative connotations associated with hyenas. The three bone-cracking Hyaenidae species (brown, spotted and striped hyena) may prey on threatened species; and they sometimes prey on livestock. Hyenas have occasionally been known to attack humans or scavenge human remains. They are also somewhat difficult to study, being nocturnal, wide-ranging and long-lived. But Hyaenidae contribute to the ecosystem in numerous ways, including through disease regulation. The literature review highlights an imbalance in reporting on the positive effects of hyenas. A quarter of all literature on Hyaenidae is focused on human-hyena interactions, and the majority of this reports on conflicts and livestock predation events. In contrast, very few of these studies reported on the human impacts on Hyaenidae, such as infrastructure impacts or snare and poisoning events.
The studies conducted on Hyaenidae since 1900 have not been balanced concerning species, place or topic. For example, there were only 44 field studies on aardwolves and 519 on spotted hyenas. Only 66% of the 67 Hyaenidae-range states have produced at least one hyena publication, and most of the studies have been done in South Africa, Kenya and Tanzania. Topics have changed from focusing on basic biology to distribution and range, human–hyena interactions and anthropogenic impacts. Most of the studies (60%) were within (or at least partially conducted within) a protected area. Yet only 2.6%, 0.2%, 3.4% and 1.2% of the ranges for aardwolves, brown hyenas, spotted hyenas and striped hyenas, respectively, are comprised of protected areas!
Only 2.6% of aardwolf range is found in protected areas
The primary threats to Hyaenidae are habitat loss and fragmentation, declining prey populations and conflict with humans. The first two exacerbate the third, as with increased habitat loss and prey reductions, Hyaenidae are forced into closer contact with humans, and conflicts increase. Given the increasing pressures on hyenas and wild areas under burgeoning human populations and climate change impacts, we must shift our research focus to human-Hyaenidae interactions and conflict management. There were no studies, for example, on aardwolf disease transmission, human infrastructure navigation, immigration, and dispersal. Yet the impact of roads and human development on Hyaenidae is pervasive.
The spotted hyena has the lion’s share of the publications when looking at Hyaenidae literature
It is food for thought: how do academics decide to prioritise research? Are research topics ad hoc or based on the most apparent species? The spotted hyena has the lion’s share of the publications, and one might consider this to be because it is the ‘extrovert’ of the hyenas, adaptable, opportunistic, and an apex predator that comes into conflict with humans more so than the brown and striped hyena, which also consume livestock. (The termite-snacking aardwolf sometimes comes under fire from humans, too, because of mistaken identity.) We need to consider whether scientific research is being conducted opportunistically. From the results of this study, it appears that horizon scanning is an essential element for prioritising research topics – what are the present and future threats, and what do we need to know to mitigate these?
The authors suggest that significant conservation concerns are being overlooked, such as whether the “Least concern” IUCN classification of the aardwolf is accurate given the scarcity of data on distribution and population. We don’t even know whether the genetically differentiated north-eastern aardwolf population might, in fact, be a different species from the southern population.
For the common good
The authors recommend that going forward, research should be directed towards understanding what it takes for Hyaenidae to “survive, thrive and co-exist with humans”. They emphasise the importance of community engagement in effective management and conservation, which few Hyaenidae studies have incorporated. Valuing meaningful community engagement in wildlife research is critical for anticipating and mitigating the challenges of human-wildlife interactions.
Even though the hyenas are considered “common”, this “common-ness” should be maintained, given that Hyaenidae have a unique ecological role and are indicators of the bigger picture of the biodiversity of our socio-ecological landscapes.
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How elephants name each other + Mgahinga’s gorillas
I am one of those softies who rescue insects floating in the pool – even tiny ones. Silence the sniggers, please; there’s more. Since I built a small wooden “jetty” tethered in one corner of the pool, I have not had to fish out dead lizards or mice. I learned that trick from farmers who place tethered logs in their cement dams to prevent animals and birds from drowning. Have I changed the world by doing these small things? No, but I feel good about this part of my voyage through life. Kind deeds significantly benefit your well-being and health – not that this is why we do them (right?).
Africa Geographic was born of the same energy and context. I was in the finance industry and felt a strong urge to do something more meaningful. This has been one helluva journey – since 1991. We try to make a difference in the way we know how – articles that reflect the real Africa and safaris that celebrate this remarkable place. We have made mistakes and learnt lessons – such is life. And we developed our manifesto along the way – our ikigai about life as a social impact brand. The journey continues and teamAG will keep doing what we do. Thanks for your support and companionship.
To all who rescue insects from your pool – you have my profound respect!
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
We are slowly learning HOW giraffes have evolved to cope with their great height. Giraffes have specific genes that ensure fewer adverse effects from the gravity-defying high blood pressure needed for pumping blood through their large bodies, eyesight and sleep habits that have evolved to allow for hyper vigilance, and genes that maintain robust bones.
But did you know that ancient relatives of the giraffe evolved long necks to help them fight better – and not simply to reach the scrumptious leaves on the tippy tops of vachellia trees as previously thought? Victors of male neck fighting, who were more likely to mate, passed their long-neck genes onto offspring – a theory that has been labelled the “necks for sex” hypothesis.
This week, we’re bringing you a comprehensive guide to Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, and a fascinating study that suggests elephants give one another specific names. See our stories below.
This brief safari delivers two of Africa’s most popular safari meccas: Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe – an iconic African destination, and Chobe – Botswana’s most popular national park. Enjoy an activity every day, from river cruises to game drives, horse riding and, for the more adventurous, bungee jumping and river rafting – and so much more! You tell us how many in your party and dates that suit you, and our safari experts will craft your dream safari.
How are men and women living around Hwange National Park helping to prevent human-wildlife conflict? The Long Shields Guardian Programme employs and trains local community members to protect villages from lions, safeguard cattle, and aid in wildlife management. GPS collars fitted on lions provide an early-warning system to the guardians, who are able to act quickly to prevent incidents of conflict. Guardians patrol daily, alerting villagers through a WhatsApp group when lions approach, and deterring the lions from community lands. This innovative ‘Mobile Boma’ concept safeguards livestock, enhances food security, and reduces lion killings. The programme’s expansion has led to an increase in crop yields, a reduction in predation, and fewer retaliatory lion deaths. Find out more about the programme and donate to support peaceful human-lion coexistence. Also find out about a Hwange conservation-focused safari.
WATCH: Spend a few minutes with the elegant beach-loving forest elephants of Luango National Park, Gabon – and see how these elephants warn off unwanted attention with displays of strength. (02:19) Click here to watch
Africa’s nocturnal wildlife is challenging to find, but are all the more rewarding for their rarity.
Rare night sightings of elusive species reward patience.
Arid winter landscapes improve chances of nocturnal encounters.
Many species specialise in termites, ants, or insect diets.
Night drives reveal diverse mammals across savannas and forests.
Want to join us in an exploration of the African night? Check out these African safaris offering ample experiences of nocturnal and diurnal animals.
As the sun dips below the horizon and most safari guests start to think longingly of the five-course dinner awaiting them at the lodge, the nocturnal animals of the African night begin to stir. Noses twitch, pupils dilate, and limbs stretch out in preparation for the long, dark hours ahead.
They may be challenging to find, but Africa’s nocturnal animals are all the more rewarding for their rarity. Feast your eyes on our list of favourite lucifugous beasties and some advice on where to start the searc
Honey badger
Few things in life genuinely live up to their reputation, but the honey badger certainly does. Known for their tenacity and toughness, they pack a punch that belies their small size when threatened but are otherwise largely content to simply go about their business.
Where to start? Honey badgers are predominantly nocturnal animals but are often active during the cooler winter days. Though they thrive in many habitats, arid regions like the Central Kalahari Game Reserve in Botswana offer a good chance to spot one due to the sparse vegetation (and their bolshie tendency to visit the campsites). To plan your next Botswana safari, click here.
A honey badger seen in camp in the Okavango Delta
Bush baby
Bush babies (or galagos as they are more formally known) are a group of nocturnal primates found throughout sub-Saharan Africa. The continent’s myriad species come in many shapes and sizes, some utterly adorable. This is especially true of the tiny lesser Galagos, with their enormous bat-like ears and wide, surprised eyes.
Where to start? Almost anywhere on safari! Grab a spotlight or a flashlight and keep an eye out for quick reflection of their eye-shine as they leap from tree to tree. But be ready – these nocturnal animals can move fast! To browse our best African safaris on offer, click here.
The bright-eyed lesser bushbaby
Aardvark
An aardvark slinks into the night in Kimberley, South Africa
The unique aardvark, with its ginormous rabbit ears and pig-like snout, is one of Africa’s weirdest and more wonderful offerings. Aardvarks have poor eyesight and can be hyper-focused on their termite prey while foraging. As a result, a careful and considered approach may be rewarded with a lengthy and very special sighting.
Where to start? Aardvarks are generally shy animals, but, like many of the nocturnal animals on this list, cold winter temperatures usually force them to search for food before dusk. The Karoo region in South Africa is home to (relatively) high densities of aardvark. Samara Karoo Reserve is a fantastic place to look for aardvarks thanks to its vast, rewilded Great Karoo landscapes, where this elusive nocturnal species thrives alongside an impressive diversity of wildlife.
Aardvark trekking in Samara Karoo Reserve
Pangolin
For an animal that looks somewhat like an anxious walking artichoke, the pangolin must be one of the most charming little characters roaming the continent. These inoffensive eccentrics are covered in a layer of keratin scales and sport powerful claws and a long sticky tongue for lapping up termites and ants.
A Temminck’s (ground) pangolin spotted in Manyoni Private Game Reserve, South Africa
Genet
With needle-sharp teeth and a ferocious pounce, the lithe genets of Africa spend their evenings terrorising the tiny mammals, birds, and reptiles of the forests, savannas, and grasslands. These little predators are the epitome of grace and agility, seemingly flowing over obstacles, up trees and through the undergrowth.
Where to start? Genets are found throughout much of sub-Saharan Africa, though extended sightings are rare outside of a lodge context (where they have learned to associate people with food). There have been reports of melanistic genets wandering the plains of the Maasai Mara. To plan your Maasai Mara safari, click here.
Witnessing the agility and elegance of genets in the wild is a treat
Civet
The African civet, with its masquerade facial markings, makes many people think of a raccoon, though the two species are unrelated. They are widely distributed throughout Africa’s savannah and forest habitats, but the civet’s nocturnal and elusive habits make encountering one in the wild a rare treat.
Where to start? Civets are creatures of habit, generally walking the same well-trodden paths night after night. There are several lodges in the Greater Kruger with “resident” civets that pass through during the hours of darkness. To plan your Greater Kruger safari, click here.
African civets are very elusive and difficult to spot
Cape porcupine
These prickly customers are the largest rodents in Africa – stocky, robust animals with short limbs and a protective quiver of barbed quills. Porcupines are decidedly family-oriented despite their somewhat antisocial appearance. It is not uncommon to encounter a family unit consisting of a monogamous male and female and their latest porcupette foraging together.
Where to start? Cape porcupines are widely distributed throughout most of sub-Saharan Africa, and the chances of encountering one on a night drive are roughly the same in many of the more popular safari destinations. Arid areas like the Kalahari and Namibia may offer the best opportunity to spot one because the vegetation cover is less dense.
A Cape porcupine enjoys a quiet drink in the dead of night
Aye-aye
Of the 12 fascinating animals on this list, Madagascar’s aye-aye is perhaps the most fantastical and outlandish. The world’s largest nocturnal primate is technically a lemur but sports several unusual anatomical adaptations that set it apart, including constantly growing incisors and a sixth digit (a “pseudo thumb”) on the front paws. The long, thin third finger is used woodpecker-like to tap on bark to locate insects and then fish the grubs out of their hiding places.
Where to start? The dense forests of Nosy Mangabe off the coast of eastern Madagascar offer some of the most reliable sightings of these endangered lemurs. They were introduced to the island during the 1960s as a conservation initiative and have flourished ever since.
A female aye-aye spotted in Loky-Manambato, Madagascar
Springhare
The bouncy springhare is Africa’s answer to the kangaroo, albeit in miniature form. At night, these spring-loaded rodents emerge from their underground burrows to forage, using their long tails to balance as they hop around searching for juicy roots and stems.
Where to start? Springhares thrive in the semi-arid regions of southern Africa, so a night drive in Madikwe Game Reserve in South Africa or the Tuli Block in Botswana may well reveal a glimpse of a lively springhare (or ten). To find out more about Madikwe and to browse safaris to Madikwe, click here.
The cartoon-like springhare
Aardwolf
The shy and elusive aardwolf is perhaps one of the continent’s most underappreciated animals. These unique animals belong to the hyena family but are entirely myrmecophagous (they only eat termites and ants). They are also probably the most winsome of all the hyena species, with dramatically striped coats, delicate facial features, and oversized ears.
Where to start? There are two distinct populations of aardwolf in Africa, one in southern Africa and the other in East Africa. The best chance of finding one in southern Africa would be through exploring the vast Kalahari Basin, perhaps in Kgalagadi National Park in South Africa or Botswana’s salt pans. To find out more about safaris in the salt pans, click here.
An aardwolf foraging in the Karoo
Bushpig
It seems astonishing that such a large animal might so easily evade visitors, yet few safari-goers ever glimpse the stocky, shaggy bushpig in the wild. Though often described as “dangerous” and “aggressive”, these porcine omnivores are wary and circumspect and generally avoid humans (unlike their brash and fearless cousins, the warthog).
Where to start? Bushpigs are adaptable animals found across a wide range of habitats. However, there are few areas where they are sufficiently habituated to people to make for reliable sightings. Some campsites in Marakele National Park are known for visits from marauding bushpigs, though they should be treated with absolute respect and given plenty of space.
The stocky and adaptable bushpig
Bat-eared fox
As the name implies, bat-eared foxes are defined by their enormous ears, reaching almost a third of their total body length. They are the only insectivorous canid species in the world, with a unique dental arrangement designed to suit their unusual diets. They generally forage in small families and are endlessly entertaining, with oddly sardonic expressions beneath their ridiculously oversized ears.
In a dense corner of Africa in a land dotted by the dramatic, forested figures of ancient volcanoes, a trio of countries protect just over half of the world’s remaining mountain gorillas. Destinations like Virunga and Volcanoes National Parks have become synonymous with mountain gorilla trekking and conservation, but there is a third national park, so often forgotten, that forms the final corner of the triangle. Uganda’s Mgahinga Gorilla National Park is a small park that packs an astonishing biodiversity punch and offers some of Africa’s most exclusive gorilla trekking.
*Cover image: Mark, the 40-year-old leader of the Nyakagezi gorilla family, enjoys some alone time in the dense bamboo forest of Mgahinga. For more images from Michael Stavrakakis, check out @pics.stavtook on Instagram.
Mgahinga Gorilla National Park
At just 34 km2 (3,400 hectares), Mgahinga Gorilla National Park is Uganda’s smallest national park, tucked away in the country’s southwestern corner. With Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park to the north and Virunga National Park in the Democratic Republic of Congo to the west, Mgahinga completes the trifecta of parks protecting the Greater Virunga Ecosystem. Shaped by ancient (and relatively modern) volcanic forces, this primaeval landscape is known for its phenomenal scenic beauty and extraordinary biodiversity. It also protects just over half of the world’s remaining mountain gorillas.
A mountain gorilla enjoys the morning sun on the slopes
The topography of the region is dominated by the looming forms of the eight Virunga volcanoes, of which three extend into Mgahinga Gorilla National Park: Muhavura (4,127 m), Gahinga (3,474 m), and Sabinyo (3,645 m). Unlike the two active volcanoes in neighbouring DRC, these peaks no longer explode at unpredictable intervals. Instead, their forested slopes support a plethora of life, from the celebrated mountain gorillas and coiffured golden monkeys to slinking leopards and an array of endemic birdlife.
Want to plan your African safari to meet the gorillas and golden monkeys of Mgahinga? We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.
The dramatic changes in altitude also ensure that despite Mgahinga’s relatively small size, the park is a mosaic of diverse habitats. Steaming swamps give way to the verdant green of bamboo forests, which then melt into the dense Albertine Rift montane habitat at higher altitudes. Incongruously, at such tropical latitudes, the peaks of the iconic volcanoes are sparsely covered with alpine zones and moorland.
A baby gorilla samples the forest fare while dangling from a vine. Check out more images from @hillary_shots here
Precious primates – silverbacks and golden monkeys
Regarding the Ugandan gorilla trekking experience, Mgahinga has traditionally been overshadowed by Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, which lies some 50km to the north and is home to the country’s only other population of mountain gorillas. This is partly because Mgahinga’s habituated gorilla family – the Nyakagezi family – have occasionally been known to cross the park’s boundary into Rwanda. However, in recent years, they have been all but resident on the Ugandan side of the ecosystem, and encounters are increasingly reliable.
Mother and infant gorilla nap peacefully while surrounded by a watchful band
Not for nothing is gorilla trekking considered a safari bucket list essential. Though the time spent with gorillas is strictly limited to prevent over-exposure, the impact of such an encounter makes an indelible impression on the human soul. Though the hike through the forest can be physically demanding, the reward at the end is a goosebump-inducing meeting with our sentient relatives.
Naturally, the gorillas are the stars of a visit to Mgahinga, but they have found stiff competition in their bright-eyed smaller cousins, the golden monkeys. These unique endangered animals are restricted to the highland forests of Central Africa and are found only in a handful of national parks, of which Mgahinga is one. They are named for their mottled gold facial mask and are usually found snacking on bamboo stalks. With the success of well-established gorilla trekking as a conservation model, park authorities have similarly habituated troops of these primates so that they can be observed without affecting their day-to-day behaviours. Visitors to Mgahinga can opt for the standard trek or spend several hours with the habituation team.
A golden monkey stands to attention
Kingdom Animalia
The rich volcanic soils and moist tropical climate have ensured that the Greater Virunga Ecosystem is a hotbed for floral and faunal diversity. Moreover, scientists studying the region believe that much of the eastern Congo basin was an ice age refugia, which escaped the worst of the glacial conditions that once blanketed the earth. Consequently, endemism levels are high, particularly when it comes to the feathered residents of the forest. Challenging though forest birding may be, Mgahinga is home to an impressive list of bird species, including several Albertine Rift Valley endemics and many more specials of the Afrotropical mountain habitat.
A juvenile bronze sunbird silhouetted by dim light
A hike along forest paths (perhaps serenaded by the melodious Kivu ground thrush) will reveal the dramatic flashes of African pittas and Rwenzori turacos. At the same time, a more strenuous route to the lobelias at the top of the volcanic peaks may be rewarded by the sight of scarlet-tufted sunbirds. True to its name, the Grauer’s swamp warbler can be heard singing its little heart out in the reeds of the Kabiranyuma and Kazibakye swamps in competition with the vocal handsome francolin on the peripheries. Further into the forest, sunbirds abound, with regal, blue-headed, and Rwenzori double-collared sunbirds all contributing to the kaleidoscope of colour. The company of one of Uganda’s expert bird guides will unlock the park’s full birding potential, and eager aviphiles will find themselves dashing from dusky crimsonwings to Rwenzori batises and then on to the search for a montane nightjar.
For those who can tear their eyes away from the primate and avian extravaganza, the trails are decorated in butterflies of every shape and colour. Sharp-eyed visitors (or, more likely, the experienced guide) may even be lucky enough to spot one of the park’s rare Jackson’s chameleons – a three-horned creature that looks for all the world as though it sprang from the time of the dinosaurs. Elephants, leopards, giant forest hogs and bushpigs are all present in the forest but are shy and seldom encountered.
Heading into Sabinyo Gorge in search of rare birds
Meandering in Mgahinga
With such abundant natural marvels, it isn’t difficult to understand why hiking is such a popular activity in Mgahinga. The well-kept trails range from short excursions and nature walks to full-day adventures up one of the three volcanic peaks to take in the panoramic views over Uganda, Rwanda and the DRC. The hike through Sabinyo Gorge is particularly favoured by birders but enchanting for visitors looking to explore the fantastical scenery and vegetation on display.
Another popular excursion is a trip to the Garama Cave, which extends some 342 metres beneath a plateau and is of sacred significance to the local Batwa people. In the gloom of the cave, conflict councils were held to discuss the defence of their lands, and the relics of their culture and religion can be found throughout the chambers. The Batwa people were evicted from the Mgahinga region when it was gazetted as a national park, but some remain on the park’s fringes. Cultural tours allow visitors to learn more about their way of life and the challenges of adapting to the loss of their ancestral lands.
Visitors can experience the culture of the Batwa while visiting Mgahinga, or hike up the volcanoes in the park
Explore & stay
Mgahinga Gorilla National Park experiences two rainy seasons: one from February to May and a second from September to December. However, rain is possible at any time of year, and visitors should always be well-prepared to waterproof valuables. Comfortable clothes with long sleeves and layers and a sturdy pair of boots are essential to making the most of the Mgahinga experience.
A luxury lodge near the park’s gate offers the only tourist accommodation available within Mgahinga itself, but there are several budget and mid-range camps on lodges along the park’s outskirts. Those wishing to travel slightly further afield could also explore options on the banks of nearby Lake Mutanda or Lake Bunyonyi, both astonishingly beautiful, framed by lush hills and dotted with tiny islands.
The Virunga mountains peak out from behind Lake Mutanda and Lake Mulehe
Final thoughts
While Mgahinga may be small compared to its neighbours, the national park is a vital cornerstone of the Greater Virunga Ecosystem, one of Africa’s most mysterious and untamed wildernesses.
Do elephant rumblings contain names? New research may have the answer
How do you call an elephant? By its name. This might appear to be the start of a bad joke, but the fact that elephants might have individual names for each other is a first in the animal kingdom. Do elephant rumblings contain names? New research has shown that it is possible that elephants have individual names, and they get one another’s attention by using these names.
Elephant name-calling
The nearest similar behaviour in animals has been observed in dolphins mimicking the particular calls of an individual whose attention they want to attract. Dolphins have their own unique set of squeaks and whistles, which self-identifies them to the group, but what is different about Bottlenose dolphins (Tursiops truncatus) is that when a dolphin wants to communicate with another dolphin, it mimics or copies that individual’s unique call signature.
Despite this being a fairly unique behaviour amongst wild animals, it is still cognitively simple to communicate to an individual by imitating that individual’s signature call. One step further is what humans do – attaching a non-mimicking, essentially arbitrary vocal label (aka “name”) to an individual. (My name, “Christy”, does not reference the sounds I make). This type of vocal recognition requires a new level of cognitive processing to connect a general sound “label” to one individual. It requires verbal learning (as individuals are not born knowing the names of their peers), memory, and assigning a symbolic meaning to individuals.
How to communicate with an elephant
A recent study (which is yet to be reviewed) included some intriguing experiments to find out more about how elephants communicate with each other.
Firstly, we know that elephants are great communicators – they can mimic sounds and have a wide variety of low-frequency rumblings. Many travellers will have experienced these rumblings while on an African safari. For example, they have a “Contact Rumble” when the caller is far away, is visually separated from the herd, and wants to get in touch again. They also have a “Greeting Rumble”, for when they haven’t seen each other for ages and they meet up again.
Elephants communicate using various techniques, including rumbling
Researchers for this study, published on bioRxiv, recorded and analysed the calls and rumblings of elephant groups from the greater Samburu ecosystem in northern Kenya and the Amboseli National Park in southern Kenya. They observed the elephants’ interactions, noting calls and when a response was initiated by a call (through vocalising or approaching a caller). They then analysed the calls to see if vocal labels were uniquely associated with an individual and if different callers used the same vocal label (name) when addressing that individual.
The results showed receivers of calls could be correctly identified from the call structure of other elephants and that there was a commonly used acoustic signal – like a label or name – in the calls to that individual. There were, however, varying sounds and rumblings in these calls, suggesting multiple messages encoded in these rumblings. The scientists suggest that results may be blurred by the fact that rumblings are not as simple as, “Hey you, Ellie, get over here!” but probably contain more information, such as in, “Hey Ellie, you want to join us? We’re thirsty, and we’re off to the waterhole while Mom isn’t looking.”
The fascinating result, however, occurred when the researchers played back recorded calls of specific herds back to these same herds in the field. They tested these vocal labels (names) in the field and compared the reactions of 17 wild elephants to the playback of calls. When the elephant heard its name in a call, it approached the recorder more quickly and vocalised more quickly than to calls without its name.
Final thoughts
So, it’s not quite a cut-and-dried case of elephants definitively having names, but there is some evidence to support the vocal identification of individuals. Why would elephants want to call each other? Elephants are social creatures, and their groups tend to split and re-connect frequently. As humans tend to respond positively when their name is used in an instruction, so too might elephants.
The hybrid elephants of Kibale: Read about a study from Kibale that has laid the groundwork to distinguish between forest/savannah elephant hybrids and different elephant species.
Putting elephants on the map – exploring connectivity in southern Africa: Read about how elephants move across southern Africa through protected areas and beyond
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Mashatu in colour + 90 hunted leopards?
The leopard mating experience is far from peaceful – as demonstrated in Kevin Dooley’s pic above. Did you know that leopards on honeymoon may mate as much as 256 times in four days? But, even with this radical number, these honeymoons are not always successful in producing offspring. One study found that only 28% of adult female leopards in the Kruger National Park gave birth per year. Little comprehensive research has taken place on the mating habits of leopards, as they are elusive and difficult to study.
This also means obtaining a reliable population count of leopards is notoriously challenging, if not impossible. Which is why we recently asked Botswana’s Department of Wildlife and National Parks how they calculated the trophy hunting quota of 90 leopards for 2024. We are still waiting for a response and will keep you posted.
This leopard-mating pic, taken in Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana, was the runner-up in our 2023 Photographer of the Year. teamAG is busy warming up for our 2024 competition – coming soon – and we can’t wait to share the details with you in a few days!
The winners from our 2023 competition headed to Mashatu recently and found this area of the Tuli Block to be an extremely rewarding photography destination. Check out some of their pics in the gallery below.
Estimating population sizes of spotted hyenas is also a tricky process. But a new study from Tanzania has produced the first population density estimates of this kind for spotted hyena in Tanzania – check out our second story.
Dreaming of visiting South Africa? Enjoy this iconic 12-day bush & beach safari, showcasing the best that South Africa has to offer. Be prepared to be swept off your feet with wall-to-wall wildlife action – with exceptional Greater Kruger Big 5 game viewing. This safari also includes a full-day road trip taking in the stunning scenery and cultural delights of the Lowveld. And then, head on to vibey, sophisticated Cape Town & the nearby winelands.
Lynn Killam and friends headed on a mobile safari to Botswana with us. Lynn says:
“The wildlife was fascinating. We loved the staff in camp, and were really happy to have visited. We loved camping and the outdoor areas. The mokoro was really great and we enjoyed the boat on the Chobe River. Our guide Paul was a delight. He was informative, helpful and funny, and told us the backstory on many of the animals along the way. I learned a lot from him, and we enjoyed his company very much. And he has the patience of Job!
But the absolute highlight was the animals. We watched wild dogs after a kill and saw them following a herd of wildebeest. We saw so many lions and listened to Paul tell us what he knew about each pride. The elephants were magnificent and the birds were fantastic. The wildlife – from the insects to the mega-mammals – were indescribably beautiful. Also – the baobabs! The experience was superb.”
WATCH: Most children living near South Africa’s Kruger National Park have never seen an elephant or lion. In many of these communities, children fall asleep to the sounds of lions roaring, but don’t get to see the animals for themselves. But the Future Rangers Program is working to change this reality – instilling a passion for wildlife conservation in future generations. (03:55) Click here to watch
My favourite moment in Botswana’s Mashatu Game Reserve was spending time with two magnificent male lions lurking on a rocky ridge high above the arid landscape below. They were new to the area and keeping a low profile – not keen to let the dominant pride males know of their presence. Our tracker, Goms, had somehow spotted the mohawk of one of the lions as we trundled along a bush track far below. These huge muscular specimens were about three years old – dispersed from their natal pride to seek their own territory and breeding rights. They were feral yet noble, and something about that steely look in their eyes told me that the new kings had arrived.
We also spotted six leopards in the first two days, a cheetah mom and her adolescent cubs on a kill, hyenas and many lions. We marvelled at huge blue-grey eland bulls going clickety-clack and even larger elephants as the herds sought water in this, the late dry season of September 2023. And we savoured rusks and early morning coffee under riverine canopies of Mashatu, sycamore fig, ana, boerbean and leadwood trees as Meyers parrots screeched hysterically overhead. We also enjoyed the most spectacular underground photographic hide sessions where the only way to rest the eyes was to gaze heavenward (scroll down for more about that). Safari heaven.
Keen to head onto your own trip to this epic safari destination? Check out our safaris to Tuli Block here. We have ready-made safaris to choose from or ask us to build one just for you.
During our five days at Mashatu, we spent afternoon and morning sessions at the Mashatu Photo Hide. I attended as a non-photographer – armed with a mobile phone only. Both sessions were spectacular, but the morning session produced the most prolific wildlife encounters. The ground-level photos above were taken during these sessions, giving you an idea of the intimacy of the encounters. For an even better idea of what to expect, watch this excellent video by one of our crew – professional photographer Andrew Macdonald.
We sat in awe as squadrons of wildlife arrived, drank and left – vast herds of eland, giraffe, kudu, impala, zebra and wildebeest. We also enjoyed ogling green pigeons with their bright yellow socks, held our collective breaths as a pearl-spotted owlet worked the flocks of lark-like buntings and marvelled at the restless energy as wave after wave of queleas clambered over each other like a plague of mice. Usually, an alarm snort would scatter the crowds, and the resultant temporary silence seemed eternal. Then, it would start all over again as thirsty animals made their approach, gathering confidence as others joined. The elephants would then arrive to scatter the crowds and dominate the waterhole until they, too, had slaked their thirst and gone their way.
After hours of intense action, with full hard drives and aching eyes, we left to recharge our batteries with lunch or sundowners and canape nibbles. What an experience!
Capturing the action at Mashatu Photo Hide
Our lodgings
Enjoying the view from Mashatu Tent Camp
We stayed at two Mashatu lodges during our stay. Both were comfortable and offered service with a smile and superb food.
Mashatu Lodge offers 14 suites with private deck, air-conditioning, a double bed and extra-large single bed, a seating area that includes a single day bed, an en-suite bathroom with bath and shower facilities and a separate W.C. The guest common area features a day lounge, large swimming pool, the Discovery Room (a museum of all things Mashatu, past and present), dining area, Gin Trap bar and fully stocked curio shop with African crafts, clothing and jewellery. There is Wifi in the guest common area.
Mashatu Tent Camp offers eight tents tucked under the branches of shady trees, accessible via meandering pathways. Each elevated tent has private outdoor ensuite facilities, including a toilet and shower. The guest common area includes a lounge, dining and bar area plus an open-air thatched gazebo and boma (enclosure) overlooking the floodlit, well-populated waterhole (which has a small underground photo hide). The camp’s plunge pool invites guests to cool off and escape the relentless heat typical of the summer months. Wifi is available in the guest common area.
Resources
Watch Andrew Macdonald’s video on why wildlife photography hides on safari are a must-do – filmed while on our Photographer of the Year winners’ safari in Mashatu.
How do you count spotted hyena? For many years, conservationists have struggled to find ways to estimate the population size of animals that are active at night and difficult to identify individually. To get an accurate estimate of the number of hyenas in a reserve, care must be taken not to count the same animal twice. In a new study, a team of researchers used camera trap surveys to determine hyenas’ spatial density across a Tanzanian landscape – providing the first population density estimates of this kind for spotted hyena in Tanzania.
Thriving or diving?
Hyenas have earned a bad reputation from movies like The Lion King, where they are portrayed as the drooling, ‘bad guys’ of the savannah. They have been considered relatively unaffected by human presence and are classified as “Least Concern” by CITES. But the species has lost 24% of its range in the last 40 years and is subject to increased threats from snaring, loss of habitat and a reduced prey base. And with limitations on counting hyena in the past, it is difficult to know if the species is thriving or diving. Knowing how many hyenas there are in a landscape allows conservationists to assess how well a conservation intervention works – if the numbers are low, then something is amiss.
Despite this, there have been relatively few studies on hyenas, at least when compared to lions. Although possibly a more sought-after predator by many safari-goers, the lion is not more important than the hyena. Hyenas play an essential role as a predator and scavenger in the ecosystem. The recent study points out that only three “spatially explicit capture-recapture” (SECR) studies of hyena have been done in East Africa, and none in Tanzania. The “spatially explicit” part is essential: knowing the numbers of hyenas associated with specific habitats or regions gives us much information on what could be driving the numbers (e.g., an area with optimal prey habitat might have a higher density of hyena). The “capture-recapture” is crucial because it allows the researchers to ensure they aren’t double-counting individuals. Usually, this would require “marking” an animal with a ring or a tag, which puts animals under unnecessary stress. To get around this, instead of using tags to identify individuals (to avoid counting the same animal twice), the researchers used the hyenas’ spots.
Researchers used hyena spot patterns to identify specific individuals
Spot the difference
The study used camera traps in four surveys across an area recognised as a Key Landscape for Conservation – the Ruaha-Rungwa ecosystem in southern Tanzania. This 45,000 km2 landscape consists of different habitat and land-management types. The researchers used camera trap photos to guide the individual identification of spotted hyena, using the unique spot patterns of the hyenas’ fur to work out who was who in the hyena world. This allowed them to use SECR modelling to estimate spotted-hyena population density at the four survey sites.
Where do hyena roam?
The four camera trap surveys were located in (a) the core area of Ruaha National Park, which is highly protected, productive and is used primarily for tourism; (b) an area of primarily miombo woodland in Ruaha (c) to the north in Rungwa Game Reserve, which is primarily miombo woodland used for trophy hunting activities, and (d) to the east of Ruaha in the community-managed Mbomipa and Waga Wildlife Management Area (WMA), which is similar in productivity to Ruaha but is adjacent to village lands. The Rungwa Game Reserve and Wildlife Management Areas buffer Ruaha.
Notably, there were almost twice as many hyena – 10.8 – recorded per 100km2 in the protected and productive Ruaha National Park, compared to 5.82 in the game reserve and 5.11 in the Wildlife Management Area. Interestingly, a higher density of hyena was associated with a higher density of lions, which raises questions about the role of interspecific competition between lion and hyena. Studies have shown that lions can be a significant source of mortality for hyenas, but other studies have shown that hyenas benefit from lions by stealing their kills.
The lower number of hyenas in the WMA is likely due to the greater human disturbance in the WMA, which borders unprotected village land. The cameras recorded evidence of this activity, showing images of snared hyenas and illegal excursions. The closer proximity to humans increases the incidence of human-wildlife conflict, and studies have shown that hyena are often poisoned to reduce cattle predation. This study demonstrates that the protection offered to hyenas – by buffering human contact in the core national park by WMAs and games reserves – works. The core national park may serve as a source population, from which hyenas disperse into the WMAs and game reserves, which act as sinks, as the individuals in these areas face higher mortality risks.
The findings also provide some of the first insights into spotted hyena population ecology in miombo woodland habitat. Estimates from miombo woodland in Ruaha (3.55 per 100km2) and Rungwa (5.82 per 100 km2) were considerably higher than estimates from miombo habitats elsewhere (for example, at 2.62 in Majete Game Reserve, Malawi). Densities in the miombo woodland of Rungwa were likely highest as this area receives high rainfall and likely supports high prey density and, consequently, more hyenas.
A hyena carries its cub to a new den site
The bigger hyena picture
Using spatially explicit density methods allows for a bigger picture to emerge. How the hyena uses the landscape depends on multiple factors that interact and impact population size. Habitat type (productivity in terms of supporting prey numbers) and protection from human-induced mortality (snares and disturbance) seem to have a more significant impact on digits than the presence of other predators (lion and leopard). Knowing this gives conservationists a better idea of what hyenas need to persist in landscapes of mosaic uses and habitats.
Spotted hyenas have elaborate sex lives, and high-ranked male spotted hyenas are more reproductively successful than their low-ranked rivals – read why here.
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THE Big-5 guide + Lake Mburo + pro photo safari
Try this method to REBOOT your appreciation of Africa’s awesomeness when you are next on safari. Come game drive time, leave the camera and mobile phone back at camp. Separation anxiety is a real thing, but it will pass as you enjoy the theatre of the wild. Your senses will swell with a sense of purpose as you engage them more fully to extract the nuances of every natural signal that enters your personal space. You see, when we use our recording devices we deactivate most of these senses to focus purely on the mission to create a digital confirmation of real life. We outsource the experience to a device and focus instead on the device settings and lens view. Compare the wild celebrations of previous New Year’s Eve parties when that clock struck midnight to the current version: mute creatures pointing cell phones in the air. Get my point? Savour the moments on that game drive and think about a revamped relationship with your recording device – make it subservient to your appreciation and enjoyment of life.
Thanks to all who shared last week’s story about two more giant elephants – super tuskers – killed by trophy hunters. The article caused quite a stir on social media: there has been a slew of debate and we are proud to have triggered that essential process. Some important people have taken notice and we hope that wise decisions are being made. Thanks also to those who sent us additional information about the hunting parties involved – all useful info has been forwarded to relevant organisations. KEEP SHARING the article! A luta continua
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
How do plants survive droughts in arid areas? Well, in the semi-desert of the Karoo, South Africa, the hero of our story is none other than a tiny tortoise.
Did you know that the diminutive Karoo dwarf tortoise plays an essential role in the survival of plants in the Karoo? At 11cm long, the tortoise is one of the world’s smallest. Researchers have just found that the tortoises plays a vital part in helping plants to survive drought by dispersing seeds to suitable microsites for germination. The tortoise locates and eats rare plants, and passes viable seeds through its digestive tract. As an added bonus, the tortoise’s preferred habitat of ample shade and run-off water happens to be the ideal habitat for germination. And that is how this tiny, highly endangered tortoise packs a huge punch, highlighting the broad role that understudied species can play in a landscape.
Talking about dynamite in small packages, don’t miss our story on Lake Mburo, Uganda’s smallest national park – which offers ample wildlife and diverse habitats. And if you’re on a quest to see the Big 5 on safari, check out the essential tips and ready-made safaris in our second story below.
Fancy a guided photographic safari in the Maasai Mara? Join award-winning photographer Arnfinn Johansen on this exclusive safari for four guests in Maasai Mara, Kenya. Highlights include guided game drives by an experienced Maasai guide in a modified photographic vehicle, and accommodation at Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp.
Olivier Billon and family went on a South African safari with AG. From Greater Kruger to Cape Town, the Billons had a whirlwind taste of the best South Africa has to offer. Olivier says:
“We had a marvellous family trip during the Christmas holidays. AG tailor-made a perfect trip for us. The choice of lodges in the Kruger area was very good and well sequenced – and we met very professional and smiling staff everywhere. The accommodation in Cape Town was very comfortable and well located. The communication with AG’s travel experts was very fluid and efficient. We highly recommend AG!”
WATCH: Not for the faint hearted. A rhino stuck in a muddy waterhole attracts the attention of hungry lions… But will a passing elephant be able to help? These tourists witnessed hours of wildlife action at Aus waterhole in Etosha National Park. (02:58) Click here to watch
Adventurer or birder, serious wildlife spotter or aquafile, or simply seeking that once-in-a-lifetime African safari – Lake Mburo National Park awaits you. Lake Mburo is Uganda’s smallest national park, with an area of just 260 km2, but it packs a punch with its diversity of natural wonders. There’s a little magic for everyone, from lakes to savannah, from giraffes to leopards, from walking to fishing.
The Lake Mburo National Park (Lake Mburo)’s slogan is “whispers of the wild”, and indeed the soughing of wind in the trees and grasses brings peace to the city-worn soul. If one listens carefully, there are other whispers in the wind, voices from bygone eras, from people who have loved the land before.
Check out Uganda for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from – or ask us to build one just for you.
A visit to the Lake Mburo National Park is often included on safari itineraries because it offers the sweeping vistas of the typical savannah habitat, and it is also the only protected area in the country with impala and Burchell’s zebra. Lake Mburo offers the quintessential African safari experience. One feels that at any moment, Hemingway may join you for a gin and tonic around the campfire.
Guided walks allow up-close encounters with Lake Mburo’s wildlife
But Lake Mburo goes one step better. Besides the savannah element, the park is a treasure trove of other habitats, including five lakes and 50km2 of wetlands. The park hosts hills and shrublands, grasslands, seasonal and permanent swamps, rocky outcrops and thickets. With each habitat comes its cast of inhabitants, from birds to otters.
The park hosts a treasure trove of habitats, including five lakes shrublands and grasslands
The wild things of Lake Mburo
The birds are the jewels in Lake Mburo’s crown. With over 300 bird species recorded here, many associated with the acacia and water habitats in the park, this is a birder’s dream come true. Birds adorn the trees like Christmas decorations, tiny dots of colour and chirp. Lake Mburo has given many a birdwatcher their first exciting glimpse of the elusive African finfoot with its bright red, big feet or the sighting of the brown-chested lapwing that arrives in November to hang out on the zebra trails.
More than 300 bird species are recorded in Lake Mburo, including saddle-billed stork
The rasping calls of the near-threatened red-faced barbet will draw you into the woodlands and, in the wetlands, there is the opportunity to watch the giant, solemn-looking shoebill (actually part of the pelican family), standing still and ponderous at the water’s edge. Other bird species with names that roll off the tongue include the green-winged pytilia, papyrus yellow warbler, African paradise flycatcher, black-headed gonolek, rufus-bellied heron and many more. Lake Mburo has the highest concentration of raptors in Uganda (35 species), including the African-Eurasian migrant the African harrier hawk.
The national park is the only one in Uganda with eland, impala and klipspringer. It is also home to the largest zebra population in Uganda – estimated at 5,000 large – and probably contains the highest concentration of leopards found anywhere in Uganda (about 25 in total, according to a recent camera trap study). Other animals that inhabit the park include buffalo, waterbuck, topi, oribi, warthog, reedbuck, hyena, genet, bush pig and white-tailed mongoose. The lakes support about 300 hippos and a heap of Nile crocodiles. Three otter species frolic in the lakes’ waters: Congo clawless, Cape clawless, and the spotted-neck otter.
Lake Mburo is home to abundant wildlife, including defassa waterbuckLake Mburo is the only protected area in Uganda with impala and Burchell’s zebraLarge herds of impala can be found in the park
The story of Lake Mburo
Lake Mburo’s history explains why it has remained a sanctuary of wilderness. Before it became a protected area, it was known for the culture of pastoralists who roamed its plains and hills as the “Karo Kurungi” (translated as “beautiful land”). The culture of the Banyankole Bahima people has been instrumental in preserving its beauty. Part of this is that the Bahima believed that the beauty of their Ankole cattle depended on preserving the pastoral beauty of the ancestral lands of Karo Kurungi. Ankole cattle, a breed of Sanga long-horned cattle, are well-adapted to living on sparse forage and minimal water and provide meat and very rich milk. The Bahima believed they had been charged with the care of the Ankole and that their cattle’s success depended on the land remaining beautiful – and thus unfarmed, uncropped and unfenced. This prevented other factions of the Banyankole – the Bahinda and Bairu farming class – from turning Karo Karungi into a production landscape of farms and fences.
Ankole cattle are an important part of the heritage of Bahima people
As rangeland grazing in the savannah biome is determined by the unpredictable vagaries of sun and rainfall, pastoralists needed to meander far and wide with their cattle. This intermittent grazing, unrestrained by fences, allowed the grasslands to rest and recover after grazing. The cattle grazing also kept the grasslands open from bush encroachment (when acacia tree thickets started to dominate the plains). In essence, the pastoral nature of the Bahima kept the savannah intact.
Visitors will sometimes see Ankole cattle grazing alongside zebra in the park
This, however, all went awry when the park was gazetted in 1983, and residents were evicted from the land with little consultation and no compensation. Effectively, the Bahima were abruptly disconnected from their “Beautiful Land” and their pastoralist identity. But the story does not stop there. People in power listened to the story of the Bahima’s Ankole cattle, of how the culture’s values were tied inextricably to the land, and the state reopened the park and degazetted some of the land in 1986. Now, the park is unfenced and managed to include the values of the Banyankole culture as well as the protection of wildlife. As a result, visitors will sometimes see these cattle, stippled with patterns that look like the dapplings of light through the trees, grazing alongside zebra in the park. The park and the people have started a new journey together, which is why Lake Mburo is so special. It is one of the few places left that reflects Africa’s fenceless, wild, untamed rangelands. It is an oasis amongst the surrounding landscape’s dairy farms and subsistence croplands.
Eland grazing in Lake Mburo’s woodland
Activities in Lake Mburo
The park offers an array of guided activities – enough to whet the tastebuds of any explorer – from walking and cycling to horseback safaris and game drives. These provide a unique experience of moving amongst the giraffe and zebra in their habitat.
Admiring a defassa waterbuck
Night game drives can be arranged to increase your chances of seeing night-dwelling creatures, such as bush babies, genet, leopards and porcupines.
A guided game drive will take visitors to the heart of the action
Visitors can also take to the water in Lake Mburo on a two-hour boat cruise, which allows the opportunity to watch crocodiles and hippos, hear the iconic call of the African fish eagle and seek out exciting wetland birds. Private cruises can also be arranged. Fishing permits are also issued by the Uganda Wildlife Authority to allow the chance to catch tilapia in the lake.
Hippos resting in one of Lake Mburo’s five lakes
Explore and stay
Keen on visiting Lake Mburo for your next African safari? The park offers a wide variety of accommodation options available in and outside the park, from affordable camping sites to luxury lodges. It is easily accessible and only a 3-hour drive from Kampala, though there are also chartered flights available from Entebbe International Airport to the airstrip in Mbarara, a 90-minute drive from Lake Mburo.
Sundowners with a view, anyone?
Lake Mburo NP is often included as a convenient and enjoyable halfway stop point on the long drive between Kampala and Bwindi Impenetrable National Park – popular for its gorilla trekking opportunities.
The park’s annual rainfall and temperatures average 800 mm and 28°C, respectively. The best times to visit are during Lake Mburo’s two dry seasons: December to February and June to August.
If you can visit this “Beautiful Land” with its abundant birdlife, speckled cattle, pronking impala and lissom giraffe, then don’t hold back – Africa’s magic awaits you.
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2 super tuskers hunted in Tanzania
Yet again a concerning trophy-hunting report interrupts and postpones what was going to be a celebratory editorial.
Our story below is just another example of how individuals within the trophy-hunting industry are focussed on removing the extraordinary but dwindling populations of genetically gifted individuals amongst our free-roaming wildlife.
To our ever-supportive AGtribe across the planet, please share this article far and wide. Sparking just one relevant decision-maker could generate enormous conservation benefits. Even the hunters amongst you know that this is wrong and that things have to change.
This is a shout out to other safari tourism brands and individuals to get involved – join us in identifying and calling out this destructive, immoral behaviour. Share the link below with influential people in your networks – you know who they are. Go beyond your corporate handcuffs; stick your head above the parapet and condemn the evil ones. Yes, you may suffer insults, threats and sanctions (we certainly do) – but your clients and followers will know what you stand for. You know what to do – just do it. Please.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Elon Musk has again warned that Artificial Intelligence is a risk to humanity that could lead to civilisation destruction, and called for its regulation. Musk’s foreboding has us all questioning – will AI be used for good, or evil?
In the hands of the right people, it can work wonders. Did you know AI is helping conservationists manage ecosystems and protect endangered species?
Analysing masses of data on animal behaviour and habitat condition is the perfect job for AI – simplifying tasks that would take humans years. In the right hands, AI combats biodiversity loss, monitors ecosystems and identify trends – streamlining conservation efforts.
Whether you are a passionate beginner or a seasoned creator, this unique art safari offers the chance to hone your skills with professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls. Soak up the atmosphere of the Big-5 Timbavati Private Nature Reserve in the Greater Kruger, South Africa and channel it into artistry. 21-27 September 2024 – only 3 spots left! Or, get in touch with our travel experts to plan your 2024 safari.
Want to make your mark for wildlife conservation in 2024?
Consider lending your support to our Collar a Lion and Save a Pangolin campaigns. These key species and the experts tirelessly protecting them need our help to make an impact on their long-term survival.
Why do these projects need your support?
The African lion is a vulnerable species – their population has decreased by 75% in just five decades. Any donation – large or small – will help finance collars and support this critical conservation project.
Your donation will help shift the scales in favour of these pangolins – it will provide the funds to deal with the seasonal influx of these precious creatures – the world’s most trafficked animal.
WATCH: Our safari experts view January and February as the months to experience the calving season for wildebeest in Maasai Mara, and predator action in Kruger. The weather is fine on East Africa’s paradise islands, and clear skies make for excellent gorilla trekking. Here’s what’s on offer for your January and February safaris. (01:30) Click here to watch
Update 23/04/2024: We can confirm that two more large-tusked elephants have been trophy hunted in Tanzania near the Kenya border. A fourth elephant was hunted in Enduimet on 11 April – likely from the Amboseli elephant population. A fifth elephant was hunted in Longido, to the west of Enduimet, during the week of 14 April. The hunts were allegedly conducted by the same hunting outfitter that hunted previous elephants in the area and involved high profile members of Tanzania’s hunting fraternity. Our sources advise that unscrupulous outfitters are willing to violate the moratorium on hunting along the Kenya/Tanzania border, with no regard for the precarious state of Amboseli’s dwindling super tusker population. Meanwhile, those with detailed information are on lockdown, nervous to reveal details for fear of persecution – while petitions to the Tanzanian government fall on deaf ears.
Update 28/03/2024: Africa Geographic is now able to share photos taken shortly after the first trophy hunt that took place in Enduimet, showing the carcass and tusks of super tusker Gilgil. In the first image, Gilgil’s carcass can clearly be seen, and in the second, the tusks, removed from the carcass (measuring 99 pounds and 110 pound), are visible.
The carcass of super tusker Gilgil, trophy hunted in Enduimet; and Gilgil’s tusks after being removed from the carcass. The men pictured here were not members of the hunting party
Update 14/03/2024:Amboseli Trust for Elephants has positively identified the first trophy-hunted bull as Gilgil, a breeding elephant aged 35, who would have been approaching his prime reproductive years. Male elephants reach their prime breeding years at or about 40 years. Our sources confirm Gilgil was a ‘100-pounder’, with one tusk weighing 99 pounds and the other 110 pounds.
Trophy hunted: 2 super tuskers in Tanzania
10 January 2024 – A trend of Tanzanian trophy hunters targeting ‘100-pounder’ elephants has raised concerns of a new threat to the last few remaining super tuskers, of which as few as 50–100 may still be alive today.
In recent months, trophy hunters have killed two super tuskers – bulls with at least one 100-pound tusk – close to Tanzania’s border with Kenya. This greater Amboseli ecosystem is a famous haven for these giant elephants, where many have become habituated as a result of close interaction with humans. The trend of targeting these ecologically and economically important animals requires immediate critical attention.
What we know about these two super-tusker hunts:
Two ‘super-tusker’ elephants (defined in East Africa as elephants with at least one tusk weighing 100 pounds) were trophy hunted in the West-Kilimanjaro area of northern Tanzania in the latter half of 2023. West-Kilimanjaro includes the Enduimet Wildlife Management area, surrounding government-owned land and private ranches.
Two different hunting companies were responsible.
In both cases, the hunters burnt the elephant carcasses – an uncommon practice amongst hunting operators in Tanzania.
All super tuskers are individually known to conservation organisations, but the identity of these elephants has not yet been established. The burning of the carcasses made post-mortem ID impossible.
All information at hand suggests that the required permits were in place for both trophy hunts.
Super tusker 1 – September 2023
The first hunt took place in Enduimet Wildlife Management Area in September 2023.
The elephant was killed approximately 24km from the international border between Tanzania and Kenya.
There are unconfirmed reports that the hunting operator identified the specific super tusker while the elephant was outside the hunting block and targeted the elephant shortly after it crossed into the hunting zone.
Africa Geographic contacted the relevant hunting operator and requested information about the elephant in question, such as images and tusk sizes. The operator responded to our message but refused to provide the requested information.
Update 14/03/2024: Amboseli Trust for Elephants has positively identified the first trophy-hunted bull as Gilgil, a breeding elephant aged 35, who would have been approaching his prime reproductive years. Male elephants reach their prime breeding years at or about 40 years. Our sources confirm Gilgil was a ‘100-pounder’, with one tusk weighing 99 pounds and the other 110 pounds.
Super tusker 2 – November 2023
The second hunt occurred in November 2023 on a piece of land neighbouring Enduimet Wildlife Management Area – approximately 36km from the international border between Tanzania and Kenya.
A helicopter was observed flying extensively in the area in the days preceding the hunt. Using an aircraft to find or coerce target animals is considered extremely unethical by responsible trophy hunters.
Africa Geographic contacted the relevant hunting operator and requested information about the elephant in question, such as images and tusk sizes. The operator responded to our message but refused to divulge any information and was, unfortunately, somewhat disparaging of our requests for transparency.
About super tuskers and this cross-border elephant population
There are estimated to be between 50 and 100 elephants remaining in Africa with at least one tusk weighing 100 pounds or more. Most of these roam the unfenced regions of southern Kenya and northern Tanzania, but some are still found in Southern Africa. The population has been decimated by the combined impacts of the ivory trade (legal and poached), human-wildlife conflict and trophy hunting. Read more about the trophy hunting of super tuskers here (Botswana) and here (Zimbabwe).
There are regulations governing a minimum tusk size requirement for trophy-hunted elephants in Tanzania, but no stipulation of a maximum tusk or body size.
The Amboseli elephant population is one of the best protected in the world and the subject of the world’s longest-running population study. Being extremely habituated, this elephant population is also one of the primary attractions that make Amboseli National Park one of Kenya’s top three most-visited national parks.
Eight young Amboseli males were recently satellite-collared to determine the behaviour and range of young males who had recently left their natal families. Two of these males spend most of their time in Tanzania, near Enduimet, Tinga Tinga and beyond. Earlier radio-collaring of older males also showed extensive and frequent movement between Kenya and Tanzania.
Enduimet area: “For some of the big males, the Enduimet area is part of their non-musth range when they are fairly sedentary. Once in musth, they will range across most of the Amboseli ecosystem, which is cross-border,” said Cynthia Moss, director of Amboseli Trust for Elephants during an email discussion with Africa Geographic.
Amboseli elephants are habituated to vehicles and also to people on foot because they live among the Maasai people. Photographers lie on the ground to photograph the magnificent giant elephants as they stroll close by unconcerned. “Shooting an Amboseli bull is about as sporting as shooting your neighbour’s poodle,” said Moss in an interview conducted in 1996.
The ‘value’ of elephants – the science and ethics
The debate on justification for sport-hunting elephants continues, and government policies vary widely across Africa. However, there are specific reasons why targeting ‘super-tuskers’ is ill-advised:
Genetic scarcity: Following centuries of selective removal by the ivory trade (legal and poached) and trophy hunters, genes for large tusks are becoming increasingly rare, as evidenced by the scarcity of big-tusked elephants. There are estimated to be between 50 and 100 elephants remaining in Africa with one tusk weighing 100 pounds or more.
Breeding value: Long-term research has shown that males between 40–54 years (which have the largest tusks) have the highest reproductive success.
“Elephant males continue to go through yearly musth cycles well into their 50s. When they are in musth, they roam far and wide to find females for mating,” said Moss.
She further explained:
“Females exercise choice, and they prefer to mate with older males in musth. Elephant males only start coming into musth in their late 20s, but it is the older males in their 40s and 50s that the females choose. Elephants grow throughout their lifetime, and their tusks grow faster in their last decade of life. When a female chooses a mate, she chooses one for his age, which indicates health and robustness. These older males have proven their genetic quality because they have survived to an older age. We have no indication that the females are choosing males with larger tusks. However, the larger tusks are an advantage to a male in a fight.”
Social value:Older bulls are also important in elephant society for their control of behaviour in younger bulls. Older male elephants – whether they have big tusks or not – are important to other, younger males in teaching and setting examples. They are also important friends and companions to other elephants.
Economic value: The Greater Amboseli Ecosystem contains some of the most economically valuable and best-known elephants on the planet – like Craig – that are a primary attraction for tourists to the Greater Amboseli Ecosystem and a pillar of an industry which generates millions of dollars in revenue every year. The trophy fee to hunt the largest category of elephant in Tanzania is approximately $20,000. The average elephant’s lifetime value from attracting tourists is estimated at $1,607,625 – while the value of a large-tusked individual would be much higher. Killing one of the last remaining giant elephants on Earth for the benefit of one hunting operator and client appears to be a huge waste of revenue opportunity, aside from other important conservation issues discussed here.
Ethical considerations: The debate about sport-hunting a highly social, long-lived, intelligent animal continues. However, these questions are amplified in this context when the elephants being killed are extremely habituated and trusting due to good protection and frequent interactions with tourists.
Historic ban on trophy hunting of these cross-border tuskers
When considering a solution, there is a precedent for exactly this situation. After three well-known Amboseli elephants were killed by sport hunters near the Kenya-Tanzania border in 1994, authorities from both countries were apparently able to reach an agreement toban hunting “along the border” until Kenya and Tanzania could best decide how to manage hunting tourism in this area.According to a newspaper article, this agreement was announced by then Principal Secretary of the Tanzanian Ministry of Natural Resources, Tourism and Environment, Dr. Ben Moshi, but we have not been able to source a copy of such an agreement. However, it would appear that there was a historic solution that was mutually acceptable and respected until recently, and this could be revisited.
Our search for specifics about the hunting of these tuskers:
Enduimet management, the Tanzania Wildlife Management Authority, and the Tanzania Hunting Operators Association were all approached for comment and have yet to respond. Relevant information will be added to this article as we receive responses.
Giraffes are quite sociable creatures – a dynamic that is riveting to witness when on an African safari. So sociable that they get together with other giraffes and form little groups that join up and disband throughout the day, based on unknown giraffe social cues. This socialisation is referred to as fission-fusion dynamics, which sounds like something an atom would do, but is actually what giraffes do. But how are these bonds formed? Researchers studying Maasai giraffes have tried to find out.
Giraffes – the social butterflies
Females, in particular, like to form close-knit communities with other possibly related females, whereas the young males tend to disperse and form loose coalitions (bachelor gangs), and the older males are more independent and roam alone, searching for receptive females (the equivalent, I imagine, of a mature gent cruising for ladies).
Girl giraffes need their best friends, as they have higher survival rates when hanging together in herds. Also, hanging out with the girls means that mom has a babysitter to take care of the kids when she wants to get a drink at the waterhole. Studies show that females share nonparental offspring care in giraffe ‘creches’ (aka babysitting).
Let’s get together, yeah yeah yeah
A group of researchers studying social associations in Maasai giraffe speculated that these females forming long-term associations were related. This could imply that staying with aunts and nieces confers greater fitness (increased survival). The authors decided to see if females might choose who they hang out with based on their appearance – according to their spot variation. As spot pattern is heritable, related giraffes should also have similar spot patterns.
So, the first thing to know about giraffe spot patterns is that there is an exceptionally high variation in spot patterns in the Masai giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis tippelskirchi). The second thing to know is that the giraffe has exceptional visual acuity among mammals based on the anatomy of their eye and adaptations of their visual genes. Communication among giraffes could be primarily visual. The characteristic coat colour of a giraffe is reddish-brown spots set within a network of white lines. As their eyes are particularly sensitive to red pigments, this could mean that their excellent eyesight allows them to discriminate between individual giraffes.
Masai giraffes in Amboseli National Park, Kenya
What beautiful spots you have, dear
To understand if a giraffe chose friends with similar looks (spotty coats), the researchers first had to describe the differing spot markings of different giraffes. The authors described the spot pattern of 399 free-ranging adult female Masai giraffes inhabiting a large, unfenced landscape in Tanzania. They chose to measure ten traits of all the spots within one region on the flank of the giraffes and recorded characteristics such as the number, circularity, solidity, size, area, and orientation of spots. They then drove around the landscape to see which females were grouped.
They found that the shape of spots was mainly a predictor of female pairing or grouping. Females preferred to mingle with other females of similar spot shapes. Thus, they conclude that female giraffe associations may be based on kinship as reflected by heritable spot traits. The visual cue of coat spot pattern may enable kin recognition in general and potentially individual identification of familiar giraffes. The authors hasten to add, “…we do not suggest that giraffes are mathematically quantifying the shape of the individual spots of other giraffes they encounter, but they may be able to rapidly assess the general ‘gestalt’ of the patterns.”
It’s an exciting theory, and further research would identify whether giraffes are using smell to identify relatives (and not spots) or whether these similarities are genetic in origin. Meanwhile, I will enjoy the idea that giraffes choose besties based on their sense of dress; polka dots are the ‘in-thing’ in giraffe fashion this year!
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Mountains of the Moon + parent like a Wahlberg’s eagle
Apparently we are pouring $billions into humanoid bots, gene-editing therapies, and brain implants to ‘improve’ our lives. At the same time we are pillaging the planet that sustains us. What could possibly go wrong?
Meanwhile, at ground level in Africa, our Photographer of the Year 2023 winners witnessed a rather gritty incident during their safari in Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana. We came across a stressed giraffe wandering around, after-birth dangling. A party of jackals were tailing her, hoping to snack on that juicy morsel. Having eaten her newborn shortly after it dropped, they were intent on cleaning up. We were all contemplative after witnessing this dramatic demonstration of natural processes. How different that was to the sanitised, packaged world our species is intent on creating, at the exclusion of real life.
Be the change you want to see in the world. Never give up
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Life is tough for rodents in Africa. When they’re not dying out due to habitat loss or poisoning, they’re dodging predators of all shapes and sizes, bearing teeth, claws, beaks and thumbs. To survive as a rat in Africa, one must grow a thick skin. One must innovate: just like the African crested rat, found in East Africa.
Did you know that the crested rat coats its fur in a poison so lethal it can fell an elephant, to protect itself from predators? The rat chews on the toxic poison arrow tree and transfers the toxins onto its fur. The poison then causes distress, or even sudden death, in its attackers. The rat’s other adaptations include a large stomach to detoxify poison, tough skin and a reinforced skull.
May you experience prosperity and opportunity in 2024 – and may you also develop a thick skin, strong stomach and hard head for any toothy challenges that come your way.
This week, don’t miss our story on Rwenzori Mountains for travel inspiration, and read about the fascinating parenting style of the Wahlberg’s eagle – all below.
Colleen Krog went on a birding safari with us to Andasibe-Mantadia in Madagascar. Thank you for your 5-star review, Colleen! Here is what Colleen had to say about her experience:
“Based at Feon’y Ala, I was able to explore Andasibe-Mantadia thoroughly over a couple of days. This was the first time I did a birding trip like this – as I am usually an occasional birder.
Our guides, Tojo and Maurice, were really excellent and made all the difference. I am sure they often guide more experienced birders and photographers. But I am a novice, and really enjoyed the trip. They really went out of their way to show me incredible species – and went above and beyond! It really made all the difference. They were on a mission to find every bird that is found in the area. We walked plenty and bashed through dense forest. It was so much fun!”
WATCH: Fancy a pick-me-up? Take a breather and enjoy a moment of Kruger lion cubs exploring, tumbling, huddling and roughhousing as they await the return of their grown ups. (02:54) Click here to watch
Lying just 33 kilometres north of the equator, snug in the heart of the African continent, a world of mystery and unparalleled beauty awaits the adventurous – the Rwenzori Mountains. Rising majestically along the border between Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo, these enigmatic peaks evoke a sense of wonder and intrigue to all who visit – providing for an African safari like no other.
The landscape of the Rwenzoris is a dramatic blend of rugged peaks, deep valleys, and cascading waterfalls. Towering above the surrounding plains, the snow-capped mountains create a breathtaking panorama. Glacial lakes shimmer amidst the lush vegetation, and the thundering waters of the Mubuku and Bujuku Rivers add to the park’s pristine beauty. The diverse topography of the region and its location in the tropics offers a seldom-seen diversity of ecosystems, from bamboo forests to alpine meadows and moss-draped valleys.
Of rainmakers and mighty rivers
Recognised for its unique biodiversity and the value of water flowing from its mountainsides, the Rwenzori Mountains National Park was established in 1991. In 1994, UNESCO afforded it World Heritage Site status, and in 2008, it was named a Ramsar site for its value in the protection of wetlands. The park now conserves almost 1,000km² of this unique and vulnerable region with its five distinct vegetation zones and unprecedented levels of endemic species.
The Rwenzori Mountain region has been home to many diverse people and societies for millennia. All recognised the value of the water flowing from the peaks and held them sacred. The Bakonzo people even named the mountains “rainmaker”, a fitting name for what is one of Africa’s most essential water sources.
Exploring the Mubuku River on foot
Ptolemy, the Greek-Egyptian astronomer, mathematician, and geographer, incorrectly identified the Rwenzoris as the source of the Nile River, giving the range its charming moniker “Montes Lunae” or the “Mountains of the Moon”. Not until much later was the true source discovered at Lake Victoria in Uganda.
Since becoming known outside of Africa, the region has captivated the imaginations of explorers, adventurers and scientists worldwide, sparking expeditions to try and unravel the mysteries and secrets of this primordial wonder.
The national park’s various trekking experiences are undoubted highlights
Moody rainforests and misty Rwenzori peaks
The Rwenzori massif stretches for roughly 120 kilometres along the western leg of the Albertine Rift, its jagged ridges, glacial valleys, and lush vegetation creating an otherworldly landscape that beckons the adventurous. These majestic giants are adorned with a crown of ever-present snow and ice, defying their equatorial location and creating a unique alpine environment. The unique combination of high altitude, equatorial location, and calm, wet climate in the Rwenzori Mountains has resulted in distinct ecosystems and rich biodiversity. It is not only the imposing height and alpine beauty that define the Mountains of the Moon. Its exceptional biodiversity and remarkable flora characterise the region. Within its diverse ecological zones, from the lowland rainforests to the moss-draped afro-alpine zone, one can discover a wealth of endemic plant species, colourful birdlife, and elusive wildlife.
The central mountain massif, Mount Stanley (also known as Mount Ngaliema), comprises three 5,000m peaks, of which Margherita is the tallest at 5,109m above sea level. This is the third highest peak in Africa after Kilimanjaro and Mount Kenya, but is perhaps the most difficult to summit because of the very rugged nature of the terrain there.
The highest peaks in the Rwenzori Mountains are permanently snowcapped. Here, the snows of Margherita, part of Mount Stanley, can be seen
Trekking the Rwenzori grand trails
The Rwenzori Mountains National Park offers many attractions catering to nature enthusiasts and adventure seekers, making for a truly unique African safari experience. The park’s undoubted highlights are the Rwenzori Mountain trekking experiences available. Multi-day hikes, ranging from moderate to strenuous, allow visitors to immerse themselves in the grandeur of the mountains. The most popular trekking route is the Kilembe Trail, which allows adventurers to explore the lower slopes of the mountains and witness breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape without the exhilarating challenge of tackling the higher peaks.
If time is a challenge, a day trip with a trained and knowledgeable guide will take you along trails offering insights into the region’s unique ecology, while pointing out endemic plant species, identifying bird calls and revealing the cultural charm of the area. Participating in cultural activities, such as traditional dances, storytelling sessions, and visits to local villages, will help you gain a deeper appreciation for the region’s heritage while contributing to the livelihoods of the people who protect this environment.
A trek up the Rwenzoris takes adventurers through five distinct vegetation zones, from grassland and plantations to a surreal afro-alpine landscape
Rwenzori forest specials
A visit to this region will enthral and richly reward you with sightings and experiences beyond your expectations. Your trek up these “rainmaker mountains” will take you gradually through five distinct vegetation zones, from grassland to the surreal afro-alpine landscape and on to equatorial glaciers. This diversity of habitats is rewarding but naturally yields “specials” found nowhere else. Regardless of your passion, you’ll find yourself marvelling at far more than you thought you might have should you embark on a trip to the Rwenzoris for your next African safari.
The early stages of a trek introduces visitor to the rustic lowland surroundings of coffee, vanilla and banana plantations. These soon give way at around 2,500m to shady and often misty montane forests with moss-covered trees, closed canopies, waterfalls and streams.
Multi-day hikes in the Rwenzori Mountains range from moderate to strenuous
Here, you will do well to scan for some of the elusive forest specials the park is known for. If you are quiet and lucky, you may catch a glimpse of the Rwenzori red duiker on the forest floor. At the same time, up in the canopy, Rwenzori colobus and blue monkeys and an intriguing diversity of bird specials await. For the sharp-eyed, hiding in plain sight is the prehistoric and somewhat comical-looking Rwenzori three-horned chameleon.
The park boasts seventeen of the twenty-four Albertine Rift endemic bird species, but they will take hard work and perhaps a little luck to find. Keep an eye out for the Rwenzori turaco, handsome francolin, strange weaver, Rwenzori nightjar, barred long-tailed cuckoo, Cassin’s hawk eagle, Shelley’s crimsonwing and purple-breasted, blue-headed and Rwenzori double-collared sunbirds.
Hiring a good bird guide will help you “grab” these species, which can be frustratingly elusive. Bring a good pair of binoculars, as the low-light forest viewing conditions can make viewing difficult.
At around 3,000m, trekkers enter an eerie and dark zone of giant bamboo grasses up to 30 metres tall, which will obscure the sky as if nature is covering one’s eyes for the surprise to come. Soon, a heather and moor wonderland is revealed as the equatorial peaks appear above.
Giant groundsels dotted across the Rwenzori Mountains
The real wonders of the Rwenzoris start above 4,000m, where botanical marvels, which evolved in isolation over millions of years, can be found. This is the afro-alpine zone – perhaps the most surreal part of this mountain world. Shrouded in mountain mists and inaccessible due to the challenging terrain, the area has been a refuge for plant life undergoing perilous evolutionary journeys. This isolation has allowed plants to evolve uniquely, adapting to the extreme conditions and carving out their niche in this montane ecosystem. The remarkable giants of the Rwenzori Mountains are a testament to the power of adaptation and the extraordinary wonders nature can create.
Enchanting giant lobelias (Lobelia gibberoa) stand tall, like sentinels, along the rugged slopes. These are among the most iconic plant species of the Rwenzori Mountains, reaching staggering heights of up to 10 metres, making them true botanical giants. Sharing their lofty habitat are giant groundsels (Dendrosenecio adnivalis), another botanical wonder of the Rwenzori Mountains. With their woody stems and tufts of silver-grey leaves, they seem to belong to a different era altogether. The groundsels bloom with clusters of bright yellow flowers that attract a myriad of insects, adding life to this surreal environment.
Exploring the Rwenzori Mountains National Park is a thrilling adventure with a range of accommodation options to suit your preference, from comfortable lodges to campsites. The nearby town of Kasese provides a convenient base for trekkers, offering hotels and guesthouses for those seeking a more urban experience.
Staying in the park or its vicinity allows visitors to savour the tranquillity of the mountains and embrace the soul-stirring beauty of this unique destination. Nyakalengija Park headquarters and campsite is an excellent place to begin your trip. Register at the park office, obtain the necessary permits, and meet your experienced local guides and porters who will accompany you throughout your journey.
Kilembe Base Camp offers accommodations for hikers and provides basic facilities while also being a convenient starting point for that hiking route.
Mount Baker and Lake Bujuku can be seen from the Bujuku Peak hike’s camp
Bujuku Valley is a picturesque area renowned for its stunning scenery. Visitors can traverse this valley, crossing fast-flowing rivers and observing mesmerising waterfalls along the way. The challenging Bujuku Peak hike offers panoramic views of the mountains and valleys.
For those seeking a shorter trek, the Mahoma Trail is a popular option. This trail takes visitors up through pristine bamboo forests, offering glimpses of diverse bird species and the chance to see the elusive Rwenzori turaco.
The Rwenzori Mountains National Park is an enchanting world where nature’s wonders are magnificently displayed. From the towering peaks to the astonishing alpine flora, every facet of this extraordinary landscape beckons travellers to embark on a remarkable life-altering journey. For those who visit, the Rwenzoris will etch themselves on the soul.
Why does the Wahlberg’s eagle lay only one egg? Most other eagles in their genus (Aquila) lay a second egg as a type of insurance policy – and in most cases, the second fledgling is killed through siblicide. The answer to the Wahlberg’s unique parenting style is fascinating…
The hard truth about birds in the nest
Most eagle chicks in the Aquila genus are ‘siblicidal’. This means that siblings fight each other to the point of death. The chicks are fiercely competitive for the food brought to the nest by the parents, and often, the bigger chick in the nest kills the smaller one, either through monopolising the food or pecking the younger sibling to the point where it is too cowed to move or beg and starves. So, what are the possible (evolutionary) reasons for this?
Dr Rob Simmons has always been fascinated by eagles. He became particularly interested in why some eagle species laid two eggs yet only ever rear one chick (because of siblicide). Why not just lay one egg? There has long been a theory that eagles lay two eggs as an insurance policy – if the first egg fails to hatch or the fledgling dies, they still have the second egg. However, the insurance policy does not hold true for all species that lay two eggs. In some species, the second egg regularly fails to hatch, even if the first one is unsuccessful. Could other life-history traits or environmental factors explain why some eagles lay one egg and some two eggs? If second eggs are not energetically costly for eagles to produce, all eagles should lay two eggs as an insurance policy. But some do not. The Wahlberg’s eagle (Aquila wahlbergi) regularly lays only one egg per clutch.
So, Simmons hatched a plan. He realised he could learn more about why an eagle would want to invest in two eggs by experimenting with an eagle that typically lays only one.
Wahlberg’s eagle is one of the smallest Aquila eagles (weighing only 1.3kg). It is an African migrant that breeds at high densities throughout southern Africa. Unusually for its size (there is a general allometric relationship in birds – species with smaller body sizes tend to have larger clutch sizes), the Wahlberg’s eagle typically lays only one egg per clutch. However, very occasionally, they do lay two eggs. This makes them an ideal species to look for patterns underlying the costs and benefits of one versus two eggs. Dr Simmons based his post-doctorate on the breeding dynamics of this species and conducted his fieldwork in Sabi Sand Game Reserve – Greater Kruger. How does one measure breeding success in nests many metres above your head? Simmons spent much time hanging from the high branches of jackalberry trees on a swaying rope ladder, sometimes up to 15 metres above the ground, measuring and weighing eggs and fledglings in Wahlberg’s eagle nests. He also used extendible mirrors as a less energetic way to check on their family life.
A Wahlberg’s eagle’s single egg in the nest
One of the first things Simmons confirmed was that the incidence of natural two-egg clutches was very low in this species. In 88 breeding events, a two-egg clutch was laid naturally only twice and in one of these nests, the first egg was unsuccessful, and the second egg survived, so the insurance policy proved valid.
But then why don’t all the pairs lay two eggs? Are these eagles all talking to the same investment broker?
Could it be that they lay two eggs when food is abundant? Previous experiments where Simmons gave extra food to breeding pairs before they laid did not result in any two-egg clutches. The abundance of food doesn’t explain the low incidence of two-egg clutches.
Simmons then wondered if the chicks exhibited siblicide, given that the Wahlberg’s eagle usually lays only one egg. He brought some small, similar-sized Wahlberg’s eagle chicks into his field laboratory and paired them up with each other in nest trays. He then rapidly had to unpair them, as they showed intense sibling aggression. They even climbed out of their nest trays to attack their neighbours in their boxes!
So now Simmons knew he had a species that usually laid one egg but could also lay two, which would result in siblicide.
He then asked if these eagles could rear two chicks given the chance, so he decided to add an extra chick of similar size to eight Wahlberg’s eagle nests. To avoid the second chick being killed by the first one, he waited until the aggressive phase had finished (about 35 days) and then added the extra fledgling to the nest. Imagine coming home to discover, out of the blue, that you have double the number of mouths to feed!
Simmons watched the nests carefully, and the parents accepted both chicks. There was no apparent aggression, and the adults appeared to feed both chicks equally. So, what happened to the chicks in these nests?
An eagle in the hand is worth two in the bush
Of the eight Wahlberg’s eagle pairs given a second chick by Simmons, only one pair succeeded in raising both chicks to the age of first flight. In all cases, the second chick lost weight and ended up smaller than the first. Simmons pinned it down to parental care. The parents just couldn’t cope with feeding two offspring. What was more fascinating was what the parents decided to do the following year. They rested! By tagging 35 adult Wahlbergs, Simmons found out that most breeding pairs returned to their territories every year – so he could compare the breeding success of birds that raised one chick and those that were given two. Significantly fewer of the pairs that had two chicks bred the following year compared to pairs that only had one chick.
A Wahlberg’s eagle catching flying ants as they emerged from their nest, Kruger National Park
So, let’s sum up what he has found out. It is costly for the Wahlberg’s eagles to have two chicks. Two are hard work to feed and have poor survival rates. Plus, the parents become too exhausted to breed the following year (so less eagle young is produced in the long run).
Egg-cellent investment
Could it be that hatching success is so great that the eagles don’t need a second egg for insurance? No, their hatching failure (ca 12,3%) is similar to that of other carnivorous birds that do produce two-egg clutches. So, what could be the advantage of producing a single egg? Simmons compared the Wahlberg’s eagle eggs to those of other species. The egg sizes of raptor species laying just one egg per clutch were 20-55% larger than the first egg of raptors laying two eggs per clutch. Simmons also observed that the sizes of hatched Wahlberg’s eagle eggs were bigger than the unhatched (unsuccessful) eggs. The bigger – the better. Big eggs might bring increased hatching success or chick survival.
All eagles are not equal. They don’t always choose the same insurance policy either. One might expect the Wahlberg’s eagle, with chicks demonstrating siblicide behaviour and small body size, to follow the insurance egg policy of having two eggs – but this is not the case. Simmons shows that clutch size might be a function of the number of chicks the parents can feasibly afford to feed, and they therefore ‘choose’ to make one larger egg.
Bigger eggs are more hatchable, so the Wahlberg’s eagles are putting their investment in a nest egg (excuse the pun) – in one big, successful egg rather than two smaller eggs. They are choosing egg quality over egg quantity. Single, large eggs do not require second-egg insurance as they are intrinsically more likely to hatch. Lots of studies point to the fact that chicks hatching from large eggs enjoy greater chances of nestling survival and enhanced growth characteristics than small chicks and eggs. This larger body size confers a measurable survival advantage and has been correlated with lifetime success. Therefore, large egg size can have a reproductive advantage in later life – what your broker would call a high-risk, high-reward strategy. Whereas eagles that lay two eggs in a clutch could be said to be putting all their eggs in one basket. The inevitable siblicide is the fine-tuning of getting bang for your buck – parent eagles tolerate siblicide as it optimises the quality of the remaining chick.
Cost-benefit analysis
Simmons qualifies that producing a large viable egg is most likely in long-lived bird species. Long-lived species would want to maximise adult survival and thus avoid the smaller two insurance eggs as this would compromise their ability to produce larger, higher-quality eggs. The intrinsically higher hatchability of large eggs offsets the need for second-egg insurance and results in large chicks with enhanced survival prospects. Put that in the bank!
During 2023 you engaged with our stories more than 2 million times. More than 27,000 new adventurers joined our tribe. And many of you travelled with us to the wildest corners of the continent for your safari fix.
This, in the context of the last decade, where 16 million of you have read our stories that reflect the complexity and reality of life at ground level here in Africa. That’s 16m caring individuals from across the globe – our tribe – that have taken on board the science and considered opinions, and helped us spread the word and CELEBRATE AFRICA.
Here are some of our highlights from 2023, the year that was:
Our 2023 story picks
Things to do in Victoria Falls
Victoria Falls is one of Africa’s most popular tourist destinations – for good reason. We shared our ultimate Victoria Falls to-do list, and our tribe started planning their adventures.
Trophy hunted
A male desert-adapted lion was hunted amidst suspicious circumstances in Namibia. We asked questions of MEFT and triggered international awareness and action
15 Top African wildlife experience
We prepared the ultimate guide to your African safari bucket list. Here were our choices of 15 top African wildlife experiences on the continent
Vet fences
Our most popular story showed you care about the welfare of Africa’s wildlife. Gail Thomson asked whether Namibia & Botswana should bring down their veterinary fences
Archeological magic in Makgadikgadi
Archaeological sites in the Makgadikgadi salt pans reveal how ancient humans used black silcrete formed from lake mud to make tools
Bush or beach?
There’s no need to choose! We brought you the best combo safaris featuring epic beach & bush destinations for the ultimate African holiday
Our most popular safaris in 2023
Big 5 + chimps + gorillas in Rwanda
Is this the best bucket-list safari out there? AG’s followers think so! This safari offers the chance to flatten three bucket-list items in one epic safari – in one country!
Maasai Mara migration season safari
This safari offers front-row seats to the greatest show on Earth – the Great Wildebeest Migration in Kenya’s Maasai Mara
Southern Africa mega safari
This safari-to-end-all-safaris will sweep you off your feet. An iconic holiday in southern Africa that combines Greater Kruger, Cape Town and the Winelands, Khwai, Chobe and Victoria Falls
Your top social media pics this year
202,510 of you checked out this photo of a lion cub taking a breather between mouthfuls and absolutely loved it. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya58,670 of you loved this image of a leopardess carrying her cub, her iron jaws made gentle by motherhood as she transports her precious cargo. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya58,560 of you held your breath when you saw this picture. “A jackal pressured this tawny eagle into dropping its quarry moments after it had managed to grab the pup.” The mother rescued the pup and transported it to a new den, unharmed. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya17,950 of you were enchanted by this young elephant. The calf seemingly snuggled up to its mother, showing affection that we all felt through the lens. Madikwe Game Reserve, South Africa
Your impact this year
This year, you helped make a difference for Africa’s wildlife by supporting our conservation campaigns.
As pangolin-poaching season kicked off in the cooler winter months, you stepped up to help treat pangolins rescued from trafficking. Thank you for supporting our Save a Pangolin campaign. You helped provide treatment and rehabilitation for pangolins saved from poaching and taken for treatment at Provet Wildlife Services, just outside Greater Kruger.
You also helped save Africa’s free-roaming lion populations by supporting our Collar a Lion campaign. By donating to our conservation partner, the Southern Africa Conservation Trust, you raised funds to purchase GPS satellite collars to monitor lion populations and drive the conservation of wild lions.
Looking to 2024
Our 2024 resolution is again to uncover new, responsible safari options and fascinating stories for you – our tribe of passionate travelling conservationists. Thank you for helping us to deliver on that promise in 2023.
We’ll be back with your regular dose of African celebration next week.
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Happy festive season, tribe!
It’s time to relax with family and friends as we enjoy the last days of the year. It’s been a wonderful year for teamAG and hopefully for you as well. This week, instead of our usual newsletter fare, we share with you a brief celebratory video (click the video above). Our last newsletter for the year next week will feature our favourite stories from 2023.
Our safari experts will be on duty over the entire festive season in case you decide to start planning your next epic safari!
Sometimes the revealing facts we publish come at great personal risk and cost. Our information comes from a variety of sources – including from within governments, parastatals and specific industries committing the foul acts. As you know, governments and industries hate the negative publicity that evidence of incompetence, fraud and corruption brings. The disturbing article below about the rise (again) of elephant poaching in Botswana is a case in point.
To the heroes who risk all to help us shine a spotlight on the truth: I SALUTE YOU. A luta continua …
Meanwhile, back in my bushveld hometown, dinner is served! Recent rains have brought out the flying termites and everything with a mouth is feasting on these nutritious morsels. From frogs to scorpions and eagles to doves – they’re all tucking in. Good times!
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
The partnership between humans and honeyguides – birds who solicit the help of humans to break open bees’ nests – has long been known to science. The birds lead the human honey hunters to the bees, and then feast on the wax and bee larvae left after hunters have raided the nest. Scientists also discovered years ago that the birds and honey hunters evolve together, with humans developing calls to entice and summon the honeyguides when they have a hankering for honey.
But did you know that greater honeyguides learn the very specific dialects of their local honey hunters? It’s not the catchiness of the tunes that attracts the birds, but rather that they have learnt the traditions of their local humans.
A new study shows that “the birds recognise and respond to calls from their local area”. The call used by Yao honey hunters in Niassa Special Reserve in Mozambique, for example, is very different from the call used by the Hadza honey hunters in northern Tanzania. When scientists played the Mozambican calls to honeyguides in Tanzania, the birds were less likely to respond, and vice versa. The study shows that birds develop their own cultures, and humans and honeyguides sustain each other’s traditions in their specific locales.
If you’re longing to walk the bushveld and get in touch with these and other facts of nature, check out the guide we’ve put together on walking safaris. And don’t miss our story on increased elephant poaching in Botswana below.
Ultimate Kafue safari – From US$6,680pps
Visitors to Zambia’s vast Kafue National Park are treated to magnificent displays of Africa at its most spectacular. Explore this extraordinary wilderness – its waterways, floodplains and miombo woodlands – and encounter the park’s abundant wildlife along the way.
Saving Africa’s wild lions
You can help save African lions! Africa’s free-roaming lions are under threat from human-wildlife conflict. These lions are an essential part of the continent’s ecosystems, its tourism industry, and its livelihood.
Thankfully, the Southern African Conservation Trust (SACT) and partners have embarked on a project to conserve lions. They require GPS satellite collars to develop lion management plans. They also provide an early warning system to local communities about the whereabouts of lions, allowing them to react quickly to potential problems and avoid human-lion conflict.
You can help to save these wild lions by making a contribution to the SACT through our Collar a Lion campaign.
Find out more about how you can help save free-roaming lions and what your sponsorship will include.
WATCH: A Kruger walking safari will show you wild Africa, at your own pace. Stroll along ancient animal trails, learn about the region’s fascinating flora, and come face-to-face with some of the region’s Big 5 residents (01:40) Click here to watch
These photos of elephant poaching incidents in Botswana were all taken recently
A recent spate of arrests of elephant poachers in Namibia has shone the light on an apparent increase in poaching of elephants in Botswana and led to questions surrounding the efficacy of anti-poaching systems in the region.
Africa Geographic is aware of at least four separate incidents within ten days this past month, where arrests were made in Namibia of poaching groups smuggling tusks. Seizures totalled up to at least 68 elephant tusks weighing almost a ton. Arrests occurred in Namibia’s Zambezi region, which borders Botswana and Zambia. Most tusks allegedly came from elephants recently poached in Botswana.
In one arrest operation, officials acted on information that the Zambezi region is being used as a transit route to smuggle the tusks of poached elephants from Botswana to Zambia.
In addition, Africa Geographic has learned that 25 carcasses of recently poached adult bull elephants have been identified in Botswana’s NG15 wildlife management area (Linyanti Reserve), south of the Savuti Channel, in October and November 2023. These carcasses showed signs of suspicious human activity: skulls had been chopped, tusks removed, and spinal cords cut. Another elephant carcass with tusks missing was seen in Chobe National Park. The age of these carcasses showed that they were poached between September and November this year.
“Over the last few years there have been several alleged cases involving poaching gangs from Zambia, some Namibians, and complicit Botswana enforcement personnel,” says Mary Rice, Executive Director of the Environmental Investigation Agency, “Most interdictions have taken place in Namibia, where it seems, the enforcement community are more effective – and proactive – in tackling the armed gangs involved; gangs who have moved through the Botswana landscape, laden down with firearms, expedition equipment and a massive haul of large tusks.”
Rice draws attention to the challenges of policing Botswana’s vast wilderness to intercept poaching incidents. “We know that poaching gangs have been exploiting the weak governance and enforcement of Botswana’s vast wilderness area for several years. Recent documented cases include significant rhino poaching incidents and interdictions of rhino horn. Still, with Botswana’s rhino population seriously depleted now, gangs are turning their sights increasingly to ivory,” says Rice.
With rhino poaching incidents in the region on the decline – most likely due to the depletion of rhino populations, poachers are seemingly turning to ivory to fill the gap.
Elephant poaching cases in Namibia are also on the increase. Spokesperson for Namibia’s Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism (MEFT) Romeo Muyunda said in a recent interview that “while we are winning the fight against the illegal killing of rhinos, elephant poaching is picking up.” When the interview was conducted at the end of November, Namibia had recorded eight cases of elephant poaching for 2023 to date, an increase from four cases reported in 2022. Myunda noted that elephants poached in 2023 were killed in the Kavango and Zambezi region communal areas.
An elephant with tusks removed and skull chopped
In 2018 and 2019, Africa Geographic reported on a spike in elephant poaching in Botswana, and it seems that a similar reoccurrence is brewing. But since 2019, little information has been published about elephant poaching in Botswana.
However, the 2022 KAZA Elephant Survey revealed that elephant carcasses made up an estimated 10.47% of the total population in the Kavango-Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area, which covers land in Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe. Fresh and recent carcasses (elephants that died in the 12 months prior to the survey) represented 0.51% (1,165 elephants) of the total estimate. The highest ratio of fresh and recent carcasses was observed in Botswana (962 carcasses – 0.72%). A concentration of fresh and recent carcasses was identified in the border region between Botswana and Namibia along the Kwando-Linyanti-Chobe River system.This is a cautionary signal of a possible negative population trend requiring further assessment. Following the release of the results, Darren Potgieter, KAZA Elephant Survey coordinator, said, “Factors such as ageing populations, improved sampling methodologies, environmental conditions, and poaching could all be at play here.”
The Environmental Investigation Agency database indicates that there have been 21 seizures of ivory linked to Botswana since 2017. Key countries linked to the illegal ivory trade in Botswana include Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe; Namibia and Zimbabwe (and Zambia) are transit countries for ivory sourced from Botswana involving Zambian nationals, according to Rice.
“Whilst there was a lull in illegal trade during Covid, large seizures are now being made again, which indicates an ongoing illegal trade. Nigeria has emerged, and has been confirmed, as the key exit point for ivory and other wildlife en route to Asia,” says Rice. “It is also a consolidation point for products sourced from the region – Gabon, DRC – but also from southern Africa.”
The current state of affairs and alleged lack of action to subvert poaching in Botswana has conservationists questioning the Botswana government’s stance.
“The poachers in Botswana seem to be able to pick and choose among the largest elephants in their area of operation… indicative that these poachers can take their time, travel around, follow elephant herds, camp out, select what they want,” said conservationist, Dr Pieter Kat, in a recent statement published on social media. “I am of the opinion that the poachers have established a collaborating network of people in Botswana facilitating poaching gunners, transporters, suppliers of food and other necessities to the ‘resident’ teams.”
Meanwhile, in South Africa, elephant poaching incidents are also on the increase. During the 2022-2023 financial year, Kruger National Park lost 32 elephants to poaching, compared to nine elephants poached in the previous year. SANParks, however, reported that this poaching was “driven largely by bushmeat, rather than ivory, demand.” One elephant was also poached in Mapungubwe National Park, which borders Botswana and Zimbabwe.
* AG contacted Boswana’s Department of Wildlife and National Parks for comment but received no response.
Travel in Africa is about knowing when and where to go, and with whom. A few weeks too early/late or a few kilometres off course, and you could miss the greatest show on Earth. And wouldn’t that be a pity?
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*Cover image: Mark, the 40-year-old leader of the Nyakagezi gorilla family, enjoys some alone time in the dense bamboo forest of Mgahinga. For more images from Michael Stavrakakis, check out 
