Page 8 – Africa Geographic

THIS WEEK

A wobbly newborn elephant calf is helped to its feet by its mother as it prepares to take its first steps. Chobe National Park, Botswana. © Charl Stols. Photographer of the Year 2020 entrant

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Black leopard pics + malaria-free safaris + finding lost species

Yesterday, I booked our flights to the biodiversity treasure trove that is the jungles of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in Congo-Brazzaville. This is a bucket-list trip for me – seeking western lowland gorillas, forest elephants, bongos, dwarf crocodiles and huge flocks of grey parrots and green pigeons. I get all twitchy just thinking about it.

The cost and hassle of international travel got me considering why we all go on safari. African safaris are not just a voyage into the unknown; they are a call to action. They invite us to witness the intricate tapestry of life, urging us to protect it. In embracing nature’s raw beauty, there is a silent pact – a commitment to preserve habitats, respect ecosystems, and ensure the harmonious coexistence of every living creature. Your safari makes a difference at ground level for African conservation and local people living amongst wildlife.

Meanwhile, late last night, spotlight in hand, I escorted my two Jack Russels into the garden for their usual pre-snooze pee. The garden corner smelled strongly of fresh buttered popcorn – so I picked the lads up and took them back indoors. Do you know why I did this? The answer is in the footer of this newsletter*.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Did you know that a blind mole with super hearing, missing for 86 years and listed as one of the world’s Most Wanted Lost Species, has just been rediscovered along the western coast of South Africa?

It took the olfactory powers of a border collie, surveys of 300km of coastline and the novel use of environmental DNA sequencing to confirm that De Winton’s golden mole is not extinct. The mole almost never surfaces above ground, and “swims” through sand dunes in tunnels that are almost untraceable – except in rare cases when they surface to forage for insects at night.

By collecting 100 soil samples from underground tunnels and matching them to a lone museum specimen of the mole, teams from Endangered Wildlife Trust, Re:wild and the University of Pretoria confirmed the species. Since the discovery, four more populations of De Winton’s golden mole have been found. The discovery is an exciting step in the use of environmental DNA tracking – using the DNA shed from animals as they move through the environment – for finding lost species.

For a look into another rare and fascinating animal – a wild panther – check out Dan Peel’s story, with photos, on the incredible black leopard of Laikipia. And for those of you planning a January safari, be sure to use the helpful resource we’ve shared below, with all the tips you’ll need.

STORIES AND DISCUSSIONS

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/the-incredible-black-leopard-of-laikipia/
BLACK LEOPARD
Seeing a black leopard in the wild is an extraordinary feat. But Dan Peel has captured incredible photos of Laikipia’s black panther

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/travel/january-safari-predators-chimps-gorillas/
JANUARY SAFARI
Epic action + few tourists + low prices: January is calving season, and gorilla trekking is at its best. Here are our January safari tips

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Fancy a malaria-free Big 5 safari? We’ve got you covered. Check out two tantalising options below and get in touch with our travel experts to plan your safari

Art safari with Alison Nicholls – Madikwe Game Reserve, South Africa – 8days – from ZAR61,100
Experience the bushveld while unlocking your creativity as you join professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls on this art safari. Buffalo Ridge Safari Lodge in malaria-free Big 5 reserve, Madikwe, South Africa, will serve as your home base. Enjoy morning and afternoon game drives, attend daytime art workshops, and hone your wildlife-sketching skills in the best setting possible. Artists of all levels are welcome!

Special Offer: Save 15% at Kariega Main Lodge, Eastern Cape, South Africa
Kariega Game Reserve in the Eastern Cape, South Africa, offers excellent game-viewing and birding experiences in its diverse ecosystems. Take advantage of this special offer and save on your stay in this Big 5, malaria-free destination. Book a minimum three-night stay in 2024, and you’ll enjoy 15% off your booking. Valid for bookings 1 May–31 July 2024. Ts&Cs apply.

Safari report back – Botswana mobile safari

Jane Allin went on a mobile safari with us to Botswana, visiting Moremi Game Reserve, Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park. She also travelled to Kasane in Botswana, and to Hwange in Zimbabwe. Here’s what Jane had to say about her safari:

“Wow, what an incredible experience! A mobile safari is a great way to feel part of the environment and leave nothing but footprints. With no fences surrounding us, the animals were free to wander into our camp – which added extra excitement, especially when lions roared throughout the night VERY close to camp in Savute in Chobe. We had the best sightings I have ever had of leopards and wild dogs in Khwai. We also saw lions every day as well all as honey badgers, side-striped jackals, spotted hyenas and much more! Literally hundreds of elephants were the highlight in Chobe, many with tiny babies. The guides were great, the food excellent, the tents comfortable and camp was beautifully set up for us each evening.
We also spent two nights at Bakwena Lodge, Kasane – I cannot rate this place highly enough – and three nights at The Hide, Zimbabwe, which was truly spectacular!
This is the third trip I have done with AG and I highly recommend them. Every trip has been good value for money and impeccably organised. Thank you Christian. I will be back!”

Want to go on a mobile safari? Plan your safari with us here

WATCH: A rare sighting of Laikipia’s (Kenya) black leopard caught on film by Graham Boulnois. “We got glimpses of her as she approached. Suddenly she dove into a bush. There was a squeal and she emerged with a young dik-dik. Dik-diks are her favourite prey and she may take three each night.” (01:02) Click here to watch

For more videos celebrating Africa, check out our videos here

* Leopard scent marking smells like BUTTERED POPCORN *

The incredible black leopard of Laikipia

Seeing a black leopard in the wild is an extraordinary feat. A wild encounter that dreams are made of. But tales of this magnificent creature reverberate from a small, wild county in Kenya. Dan Peel has spent hours with this rare black panther in Laikipia. He shares his story – and incredible photos – of this famous leopard.

Gazing out over the expansive vistas of Laikipia, a profound sense of tranquillity washes over me. A sudden chill in the air brushes against my face, descending from the snow-capped peaks of Mount Kenya in the distance. The sun falls rapidly towards the horizon in this part of the world; the rocky ridge I am sitting on in Laikipia Conservancy, Kenya, is just under 100km north of the equator. It’s the onset of the golden hour, my favourite time of day. Not only because the light throws a beautiful golden hue over everything it touches, but in this specific region, it signifies the leopard hour.

I watch the colossal storm clouds gather over the western horizon, above the scar traversing Africa – the Great Rift Valley. Emerging from the river below, a herd of elephants don their “black socks”, showing me they have been wading through the chilly, brown waters of the Ewaso Narok River. The scene exudes quintessential African charm; my thoughts wander, and I am in my happy place.

Suddenly, a single nasal whistle pierces the stillness, jolting me back to full alertness. Peering down the valley beneath, I hear another whistle, the distinctive alarm call of the dik-dik, a small knee-high antelope that thrives in this region.

This is precisely what I’ve been waiting for – an alarm call, the most dependable way to locate leopards in Laikipia. Scanning the valley below, the river, the luggas (Swahili for gullies), and the dark rocky outcrops. Inspecting every bush meticulously, I strain my eyes until they water, momentarily lowering my binoculars before resuming my search. I’m determined to pinpoint the dik-diks responsible for the call and, hopefully, the reason for their distress. A quick movement catches my eye, a mysterious shift in the scenery I can’t see. My entire focus narrows onto the specific bush that drew my attention. I hold my gaze there, unable to identify anything unusual. But still, I wait; I have been sitting on this ridge all afternoon waiting for this exact moment. In an instant, the dik-dik alarms intensify. In this area, I know what that means. There is a leopard on the move. Now to find it.

The dark basalt rocks beneath the bush begin to move – a moving shadow. Immediately, the shape takes form. And there she is, as if she was never in hiding, strolling out of the trees into the open. The dik-diks redouble their efforts to let the world know there is danger lurking. But they are not even given a momentary glance.

Holding her tail high in the classic arch of a leopard at ease, she glides across the open ground down towards the river – pure grace and beauty held like a coiled spring of unfathomable power. There is no animal, in my opinion, that commands as much respect.

But this is no ordinary leopard; this is a black leopard. A rare genetic variety, this black leopard calls Laikipia home. In fact, Laikipia is home to the largest known population of black leopards. This is an animal that I had previously only ever dreamt about, a mythical creature that was beyond any chance of sighting.

This individual, I know well. This is Giza, the black leopard of Laikipia. I have been privileged enough to spend the last two years of my life following her, photographing her, watching and learning from her incredible journey from a playful cub into a lethal huntress.

My experience in the African bush started as a young boy growing up on a wildlife farm in Zimbabwe. I had always been fascinated by everything natural. But above all, leopards held my interest. Something about their enigmatic presence, piercing eyes, and ability to unleash unbelievable power or just as quickly slink into the bush without a trace.

Throughout my decade and a half of guiding, I had heard whispers of the existence of black leopards in Africa. Still, there was never enough to hold faith in – rumours of a fleeting glimpse or an unidentifiable blurry camera-trap photo. It was not until my career took me to Laikipia that these rumours became more credible. More than a myth, these were real animals, rare and elusive, but real.

A culmination of incredibly fortunate events led us to become acquainted with Giza Mrembo – which is the full name we at Laikipia Wilderness Camp gave her. Meaning ‘the beautiful darkness’ in Swahili, it is a name that she lived up to in the next two years we got to know her.

In early 2022, the drought had ravished this part of Kenya. Many plains game species moved large distances in search of even the smallest patch of grazing, or perished in their efforts. This mass devastation was hard to watch, but it did bring about a unique situation. In times like this, predators thrive – on a seemingly unlimited supply of meat – and their numbers grow. Amid this chaos, Giza’s mother, a regular golden spotty leopard, introduced us to her one-year-old cub, Giza. And so this incredible journey began.

A side profile portrait of Giza

When we first crossed paths with Giza, she was a young leopard, still heavily reliant on her mother. She and her mother had been feasting on one of the unfortunate casualties of the drought. My initial encounter with her was a mix of excitement and deep emotion, a feeling impossible to put into words adequately. I had dreamt of encountering such an animal since I was a young boy.

Initially, she allowed only a brief glimpse, but over time, she grew bolder. Taking cues from her mother, she appeared at ease in our presence.

Giza’s life has been difficult, marked by close bonds and formidable challenges. Following in her mother’s footsteps, she has evolved into a skilled huntress, albeit with a unique technique. Her jet-black coat, advantageous in dense forests, or under thick undergrowth or moonless nights, offers little camouflage in the rugged acacia shrubland of this African region.

Leopards are renowned masters of camouflage, but Giza has never been one to blend in; she seems to have never grasped the concept. Her hunting strategy revolves around covering as much ground as possible, relying on surprise rather than stealth. She moves swiftly from one bush to another, hoping to catch a dik-dik off guard and pounce before it can successfully escape. She has skillfully harnessed the dense population of dik-diks to her advantage.

The black leopard’s coat provides little camouflage in Laikipia’s landscape

With such an efficient hunting technique, her prowess did not go unnoticed. After numerous nights of observing this, the resident male leopard in the area figured out that he could secure a free meal nearly every night by following Giza. His size and strength left poor Giza no chance, and the persistent male became an increasing problem for her. Losing almost every kill she made dealt a devastating blow, causing her condition to deteriorate. As challenging as it was to witness, it was nature’s way, and I had to let it unfold.

After a few months of this struggle, Giza was visibly ailing. Her ribs and spine were showing. She devised a solution to her predicament as a tribute to her undeniable tenacity. She didn’t choose to challenge her male competitor because she couldn’t, or to abandon her territory in an area already teeming with leopards. Instead, her answer was to become an even more proficient hunter, and so she did. Almost overnight, she began killing two dik-diks each night, the first presented reluctantly as a peace offering to appease the male and the second to sustain herself.

The undeniable adaptability and resilience of Giza, the black leopard, is awe-inspiring. Beyond her breathtaking beauty, her presence and energy set her apart from any other leopard I have had the privilege of encountering.

Find out about Kenya for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you. Or start planning your safari to Laikipia with the help of our safari experts now.

Dan Peel is a professional safari guide. His book, Moving Shadows, offers a captivating collection of photographs capturing the story of ‘Giza Mrembo’, a black leopard of Laikipia.

Through a blend of vivid photographs and compelling narratives, the book follows Giza’s extraordinary evolution from a curious cub to a powerful huntress.

Amidst the harsh realities of the African wilderness, Giza learns to navigate her environment with skill and finesse, utilising the cover of darkness and moonless nights to her advantage.

You can follow Dan on Instagram here. Or, to purchase a copy of Moving Shadows, click here.

Unveiling the mysteries of the riverine rabbit

A riverine rabbit captured by camera trap in Sanbona Wildlife Reserve

In recent years, studies have shown that riverine rabbits frequent areas far outside of the riverine habitats thought to be their main domain. But why has it taken so long to discover additional populations outside of the riverine habitats of the Nama-Karoo? What technologies have helped study their behaviour, and how can new methods of study impact conservation of the species? Christy Bragg explains how methods of gathering significant information about the species has changed over the years.

Riverine rabbits. With a name like that, one would expect these creatures to live near rivers, and up until a few years ago, they were indeed considered to be riverine-habitat specialists. This species was believed to be restricted to the shrubby alluvial floodplains of the rivers in the Nama-Karoo in South Africa. But then, someone pulled the rabbit out of the hat: a riverine rabbit was spotted in renosterveld vegetation (a vegetation type of the Cape Floristic Region), in the southern Cape, on a hillslope. It has since been spotted in many other habitat types, including succulent-Karoo plains in the southern Cape. Indeed, its scientific name, Bunolagus monticularis, gives us a clue about the different places it likes to live. “Monticularis” means mountainous. And these rabbits have since been found to frequent mountainous areas – and not just flat river plains.

What do we know about the riverine rabbit?

But what has caused the delay in discovering populations outside of the riverine areas of the Nama-Karoo? Firstly, the riverine rabbit is not easy to study. They are nocturnal, shy and, in the dark, resemble hares (such as the scrub hare and Cape hare). Secondly, studies done in the Nama-Karoo in the 1980s showed that the population might be declining due to the conversion of natural riverine habitat to agricultural lands. And thirdly, because they were not expected to be found outside the Karoo floodplains; searches for them outside this habitat have been limited.

Despite this, they have been recorded in the Touws River region in the southern Cape. Subsequently, they have been spotted in and around Anysberg Nature Reserve, a provincial reserve near Laingsburg (also in the southern Cape), and near Baviaanskloof in the Eastern Cape. Rabbit roadkill later alerted the conservation authorities to the presence of riverine rabbits near Uniondale, also in the southern Cape. Today, there’s another way to detect riverine rabbits: camera traps have significantly contributed to our understanding of this species’ ecology and distribution in recent years.

Surveying sensitive species

Through camera trap surveillance, the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT), has bolstered conservation efforts for the critically endangered riverine rabbit – having positioned at least a hundred camera traps in varying habitats to monitor the rabbits.

Before using camera traps, surveys for riverine rabbits were an intensive undertaking, where ten or more humans would walk through the habitat over several days, shouting and calling, hoping to flush a rabbit. But one camera trap in the hand is worth ten humans in the bush because a camera trap works 24/7. Now, using motion detection, these cameras are triggered to capture images of the rabbits in various habitats – providing invaluable insight into their secret lives.

Camera traps are the quiet, accurate observers in the habitat, scanning far more significant areas over more extended periods than walking-line surveys could ever accomplish.

Several camera trap studies have shown that the riverine rabbit is crepuscular, not purely nocturnal. This means they are more active during the dawn (early mornings) and dusk (late evenings). Some preliminary research also showed that rabbits and hares do not share habitat. This whet the interest of Dr Zoe Woodgate, from the University of Cape Town, who completed her doctorate on this fascinating rabbit. Woodgate wanted to know more about what determines the more peculiar habitat choices of the riverine rabbit, so she conducted her fieldwork in the Sanbona Wildlife Reserve, a private game reserve in the Western Cape.

Woodgate set up 150 cameras in 30 sites across the southern half of the reserve. This included setting up clusters of five cameras at each of the 30 sites to maximise detection of the species. Each group was spread over 15ha, and cameras were left out in the field for 45 days. She also measured some environmental factors, such as terrain ruggedness, site degradation (due to agricultural activities before the establishment of the reserve), and how close to drainage lines the rabbits occurred.

The results were intriguing. Firstly, she found that the territories of rabbits and hares did not overlap at all. Both hares and riverine rabbits had similar activity patterns, but although they were out and about at the same time of night, they did not live in the same places – likely due to the fact that they competed with one another.

The data also showed that the riverine rabbits were not closely associated with rivers. Woodgate’s model showed that rabbits are more affected by the presence of their competitors, the hares, than by rivers. She also noted that hares would choose living in less suitable terrain over sharing habitat with rabbits. Both hares and rabbits prefer level, rolling plains, but hares would choose less preferable terrain in areas where they co-occurred with rabbits. But what can be concluded from this? Do rabbits displace hares, or do hares outcompete rabbits?

There are mixed views. Some experts believe the hares are bigger and nastier and perhaps ‘bully’ rabbits out of their habitat. Some believe rabbits are the quiet kings of their habitat and displace hares to less preferable habitats. Only time and more research will tell.

Cameras, riverine rabbit conservation and wind farms

Camera traps are a critical component in the conservation toolbox. By setting up camera traps in more ‘unusual’ habitats, several new populations of riverine rabbits have been found, and more are expected to be discovered. Conservationists work with farmers and landowners to protect properties that host riverine rabbits under biodiversity stewardship or custodianship. These stewardships recognise landowners as the custodians of biodiversity on their land. And by protecting species such as riverine rabbits, their habitats are also protected – conserving many other plants and animals.

As South Africa increases its renewable energy supply, wind farm development proliferates in the Karoo. Camera traps have proven extremely useful for detecting whether this species occurs in proposed development areas. If firm evidence (from a camera trap) shows that a riverine rabbit is in the area, adequate mitigation measures can be implemented to protect the rabbit and its habitat. For example, turbines can be located a suitable distance from the rabbit’s habitat, and corridors can be developed to ensure its safe and secure movement through the landscape. However, more research is needed on how this species is affected by renewable energy development. For example, the jury is still out on whether the turbines’ noise impacts rabbit behaviour.

Roll on, riverine rabbit

Searching for the riverine rabbit is like a giant Easter bunny hunt, with more and more bunnies being discovered in unexpected hiding places every year. So, if you are ever exploring the rolling hills of the Cape provinces, near Loxton, Sutherland, Montagu, Touws River, Barrydale or even Worcester and Robertson, keep your eyes peeled for this Easter bunny. If you spot a rabbit-like creature, how will you know it’s a riverine rabbit and not a hare? The riverine rabbit has a telltale moustache, a dark black line on its chin, big, satellite-dish ears and hairy bunny-slipper feet. Also, watch for their fluffy tails, resembling a big brown powder puff (whereas the hares have scrawny, black-and-white tails). If you spot one, consider yourself lucky, as they are shy and secretive, and few people have had the privilege of seeing them in the wild.

References

Duthie, A.G. (1989), “Ecology of the Riverine Rabbit Bunolagus monticularis.” MSc dissertation, University of Pretoria, Pretoria.

Woodgate, Z., Distiller, G. and O’Riain, M.J. (2021). “Hare today, gone tomorrow: the role of interspecific competition in shaping riverine rabbit occurrence”. Endangered Species Research, 44 pp. 351-361.

THIS WEEK

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Use it or lose it + mongoose violence & other stories

‘Use it or lose it’ they chant from the sidelines – axes, guns and bulldozers at hand…

There is huge expectation in Africa that the remaining wild areas provide a variety of benefits for expanding local and regional human populations, IN ADDITION to high-level ecosystem services such as clean air, filtered water and sociocultural heritage.

Indeed many agitators draw hard lines in the sand, suggesting that these wild areas should be turned into something more immediately useful – such as timber, meat and farmland. That local communities need to benefit financially and culturally is non-negotiable, clear and obvious BUT how far can we push ecosystems to deliver to increasing demands and expectations?

Those of us in the wildlife industries are focussed on SUSTAINABLY utilising these precious remaining wild areas, and juggling many balls to ensure that local communities, wildlife and ecosystems benefit for the foreseeable future.

The photo safari industry has its challenges – including high capital setup costs, concession fees and staff overheads and a lengthy cashflow breakeven phase. And seasonality means months of no/low occupancies and losses. Also, the photo safari industry enjoys lower margins (and political support) than competing extractive industries such as mining, trophy hunting and hardwood extraction.

And yet teamAG would not consider any other vocation! This is our calling and our passion :-). Thanks for your safari bookings, donations to 3rd party campaigns and engagement with our stories – you fuel us to do what we do!

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Did you wake up and choose violence today? If you’re a female banded mongoose, the answer is probably yes. Banded mongooses – extremely social animals living in groups – are known for successful cooperative living. They forage, sleep, and defend and raise their offspring together.

But a study from a few years ago found that female banded mongooses will lead their rabbles into deliberate conflict with rival groups to increase their chances of mating with unrelated individuals. The females do this when they are in estrus – and the males of their group are grossly preoccupied with protecting their females. They use this state of distraction to incite violence with competitors and, during the chaos and confusion, mate with males from the newcomers. The sense of community is strong, but harmony – not so much…

Are you starting to plan your next December holiday? We have all the tips you need below. Plus, hamerkop’s nests are the largest bird nests (created by individual birds) in the world – but they aren’t the only ones using them! Read our second story for more.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/travel/december-safari-beaches-and-lush-bushveld
DECEMBER SAFARI
December is the month to seek out lush green landscapes, festive-season Cape Town & white sand beaches. Here’s all the tips you’ll need for your December safari

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/whos-been-sleeping-in-my-bed-hamerkop/
HAMERKOP NESTS
Hamerkops create the largest nests of any individual bird in the world. But other bird species use these nests for breeding

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Start planning your 2024 African experience now. How about a cultural extravaganza to Ethiopia or whale watching from a stylish beach lodge in South Africa? Reach out to our travel team today!

Ethiopia – Cradle of Humankind – 8 days/7 nights – from US$2,360pps
This historic tour takes you on a journey to discover churches hewn from rock, World Heritage Sites, castles, ancient tombs, art, and archaeological artefacts, in the cradle of humankind. You’ll enjoy historical city sites, boat trips to see monasteries, Ethiopian cuisine and traditional entertainment.

Special offer: Morukuru Beach Lodge, South Africa
Longing for beachside bliss? Take advantage of this special offer at Morukuru Beach Lodge in De Hoop Nature Reserve – in the heart of South Africa’s whale-watching region. Book your stay during whale season and take advantage of this stay 3, pay 2 special from 1 July – 12 September 2024

Safari report back – Chitake Springs

Brenda Hobday travelled with AG to Chitake Springs in Mana Pools NP, Zimbabwe, for a photographic safari. Here’s her 5-star review about her time on safari!

“Africa Geographic arranged the most amazing photographic trip to Chitake Springs. Most memorable was the buffalo stampeding into the springs: experiencing the build up as we realised we were between the buffalo and the springs, wondering which shute they might choose, and then witnessing the charge down to the springs. This was closely followed by the back-lit baboons and the Lilian’s lovebirds drinking (and finding out later that the lions were watching us as we crawled the river bed while trying to capture water-level photos…). Definitely one for the top of the bucket list!”

Want to go to Chitake Springs? Book your safari with us here

WATCH: A ban on poaching has positively impacted the wildlife of Zakouma National Park, Chad. No elephants in the park have been poached since 2016. Actress and environmental activist Shailene Woodley travels to Zakouma to learn how rangers from African Parks work with locals to protect the land and help it thrive (2:49). Click here to watch

For more videos celebrating Africa, check out our videos here

Who’s been sleeping in my bed? New study identifies the bird species that use hamerkop nests for breeding

The hamerkop nest is an engineering work of astonishing proportions. Breeding pairs of these medium-sized wading birds spend months meticulously placing carefully selected sticks to create one of the largest nests of any individual bird in the world. However, not every bird species is as diligent when it comes to nest building, and sometimes, it is more energy-efficient to take advantage of the hard work of others. Scientists from the University of KwaZulu-Natal in South Africa have trawled through existing research and combined this with observational research to determine which species use hamerkop nests for breeding purposes.

In all fairness to the somewhat cheeky nest usurpers, building a nest is an activity that demands considerable investment in time and energy. Like cuckoos outsourcing chick rearing, opting for the easy route and avoiding construction fuss where possible is a sensible breeding strategy. And in nest terms, a hamerkop nest is positively palatial. These twig structures may measure over 1.5 metres in diameter, weigh over 50kgs, and can include 8,000 sticks. They include a sizeable internal chamber where chicks can be raised to fledging in relative luxury. It should come as no surprise that these structures offer appealing housing alternatives to other species. This is even more true because some hamerkop pairs are what researchers have termed “compulsive” nest builders and may construct and then abandon several nests every year.

So which birds have learned to adopt the natural version of possession being nine-tenths of the law? Using data from 18 different African countries, the authors found 251 reports of 20 bird species utilising hamerkop nests. Six of these – barn owls, knob-billed ducks, Egyptian geese, Dickinson’s kestrel and Verreaux’s eagle-owls – actively kicked the hamerkop pairs out of their nests. Knob-billed and African black ducks, Egyptian and African pygmy geese, Dickinson’s and grey kestrels, barn and Pel’s fishing owls and Verreaux’s eagle-owls were all found to utilise the inner chamber.

In contrast, spur-winged geese, several stork species, hooded vultures, martial eagles, and spotted eagle-owls were only observed using the top of the hamerkop nest. In some cases, the hamerkop pairs continued to occupy the inside of the nest while other species settled on the roof.

Keen to see hamerkops in the bushveld? Check out our many options for travelling in Africa. We have ready-made safaris to choose from – or ask us to build your perfect African safari just for you.

Most of the identified species can and do make nests of their own, suggesting that their use of hamerkop nests is mainly opportunistic. However, the barn owl – which was by far the most commonly reported species – does not make a nest at all and appears to be heavily reliant on hamerkop nests in some areas. There is a possibility that grey kestrels may also exclusively breed in hamerkop nests. The authors also emphasise that the list of species using these nests will likely be far more extensive than those identified in this paper. As such, they suggest that further in-depth field studies could be highly worthwhile.

Reference (available through a paywall)

Gula, J. and Downs, C. T. (2023) “Second-Hand Housing: A Review of Avian Species Using Hamerkop Nests for Breeding,” African Zoology, 58(1), pp. 1–5

THIS WEEK

This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.

Fragile lion kingdoms + South African safari

As you read this, we are in Zambia’s Liuwa Plain National Park documenting the soon-to-be-launched Liuwa Camp. This awesome tented safari lodge is tucked away on a floodplain island under a shady canopy of tall trees. Every year at around this time the rains transform the landscape – sand lilies pop up like fireworks explosions, countless waterfowl arrive and Africa’s 2nd largest wildebeest migration takes place amidst a growing population of lions, hyenas, cheetahs and painted wolves.

This is the erstwhile home of that iconic lioness Lady Liuwa – who I was fortunate to spend time with shortly before her death at the venerable age of 17. Lady Liuwa founded what is now a healthy population of lions. Her story echoes the rise of Liuwa Plain NP, under the management of African Parks, as a conservation success story and wilderness destination for those looking beyond the Big 5 and rim-flow pools. Watch this space for more about Liuwa Camp and the community that will benefit directly from your visit.

Speaking of lions, thanks to those who have matched teamAG by sponsoring a research collar to help reduce incidents of human-lion conflict – and those who have donated (no amount too small). I know that many CEOs, team leaders, decision-makers and other inspirational people read our newsletter – join us in making a difference? This is a vital project if we wish to keep dispersing lions safe from the ultimate predator.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Does a starfish have a head? Scientists have for many decades been perplexed by the question of what comprises the head of a starfish. With their five identical arms, how can we tell which is the front, the back, the top, or the tail? One popular conclusion has been that the starfish does not have a head at all.

But a study has just found that the opposite is actually true. While analysing the gene signatures of juvenile sea stars, researchers found that those associated with head development could be found all over the bodies of the starfish, while genes that usually code for an animal’s torso and tail were missing. In short, starfish have evolved to lose their bodies, developing over time into nothing but hunting, crawling heads!

This week, we’re exploring the fragile kingdoms of Africa’s lions in our first story. In our second story, we’ve put together the ultimate guide to your next safari to South Africa – complete with a selection of ready-made safaris. See below.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/the-fragile-kingdoms-of-the-african-lion/
FRAGILE KINGDOMS
Lions are under threat. A new study examines the fragility of lion populations in Africa, probing socio-political & ecological factors

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/travel/places/south-africa
SOUTH AFRICAN SAFARI
A safari in South Africa offers the world in one country – from the Big 5 & lodges of Greater Kruger to the fine dining & pizazz of Cape Town

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Fancy a mobile safari in Botswana? Book now and you’ll save big time. Or plan that incredible beachfront holiday to KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. Read on, and reach out to our travel team now!

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Book your stay for 2024 and take advantage of this Stay 4 pay 3 or Stay 3 pay 2 special offer. The Oyster Box’s lavish interior spaces are adorned with attractive original artwork and unique furnishings, and the beautiful tropical gardens create an oasis of tranquillity against the backdrop of the Indian Ocean. Special valid 14 Jan–12 Dec 2024 (excluding block out dates). Specific room types apply.

Collar a lion

You can help save free-roaming lions by taking part in our Collar a Lion campaign.

Why are GPS collars important for lion conservation?

Collars help researchers study the effects that fences have on spatial & social behaviours of wild lions.
They allow the monitoring and tracking of lion prides and their natural movement between protected areas and on park boundaries.
Collars provide an early-warning system to protect local villages from lions, safeguarding their cattle and aiding in wildlife management.

Become a lion warrior by sponsoring a collar. You will be making an essential impact on the preservation of future lion populations. Read more about how to contribute here.

WATCH: Wouldn’t you rather be on safari? Let Africa Geographic take you there. Check out these epic safari moments to inspire. Choose from our carefully curated safari packages or customise your own adventure with our travel team. Why wait? Start planning your perfect trip now! (0:45). Click here to watch

For more videos celebrating Africa, check out our videos here

The fragile kingdoms of the African lion

The African lion is an iconic symbol of Africa, associated with strength and majesty. In reality, the kingdom of the lion is under pressure. In a recent study, researchers have given us greater insight into what is causing concern for the remaining populations of the African lion.

Paws for thought

The African lion is classified as vulnerable on the IUCN Red List of threatened species;
There has been a 36% reduction in the species range in the last 21 years;
Population surveys estimate that ca. 20,000 to 25,000 lions are left in the wild;
There are only 62 remaining free-ranging wild lion populations remaining in Africa, less than half of which have over 100 lions;
Lions are now confined to 8% of their historic range distribution; and
There are marked differences in how well lions do across different populations. Lion populations in Botswana, for example, are thriving and have increased by 12%, but in West and Central Africa, populations have declined by a worrying 66%.

The bigger picture

Conservationists have for years described the risk of extinction for a species through quantifiable metrics, such as a change in habitat, numbers of mortalities, or percentage of the animal’s population in protected areas. But in a new study, Nicholson et al. (2023) point out that these measures are often based on assumptions. For example, just because an area has been declared a protected area by the authorities does not mean that protection is automatically conferred. Governance of protected areas varies across space and time; some reserves do not or cannot enforce this protection. Some countries do not have the resources to maintain anti-poaching units or effectively manage human-wildlife conflict. Context is always critical. In a reserve surrounded on all sides by livestock farmers, lions are more vulnerable to the consequences of human-wildlife conflict (due to lions preying on livestock) than lions in a reserve buffered by other reserves. Lions in a reserve in countries with stable political environments are more secure than lions in states facing political instability.

To integrate this notion of context, the authors introduce the concept of ‘fragility’. Fragility is, in essence, the opposite of resilience. The authors define fragility as the measure of how vulnerable to damage or harm a species is. Resilient populations bounce back after an adverse event. But fragile populations don’t.

Ecological fragility refers to those ecological factors that make a lion population vulnerable, such as lack of connectivity to other lion populations (this would impact genetic diversity and resilience to disease, etc). They then introduce the concept of socio-political fragility as defined by factors such as human population numbers, political stability and environmental policy. This novel way of assessing the fragility of different African lion populations gives conservationists a more realistic way of understanding which populations face high risk.

Where are the fragile lion populations?

Ethiopia’s Maze National Park lion population is ranked the most ecologically fragile due to its exposure to high cattle and human densities within the lions’ range. Other ecologically fragile geographic populations include Lake Manyara, Nechisar and Toro-Semiliki. In contrast, the lion populations in the Selous-Niassa (Tanzania and Mozambique) and Kavango-Zambezi (Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe) systems are considered the least ecologically fragile.

When the socio-political context is considered, however, the analysis reveals that the lion populations in Somalia and South Sudan are considered the most fragile, as they score low in governance and conservation-policy categories. From a socio-political perspective, South Africa, Namibia and Botswana lion populations are considered the least fragile.

The combination of ecological and socio-political fragility gives a different index; thus, a different perspective emerges. Overall, Somalia’s lion populations were evaluated as being the most fragile, Botswana’s the least. Sadly, almost half the countries that scored a high overall fragility comprise 39% of the lion’s range and were primarily located in the northern parts of Africa. Poor governance, population pressure, conflict and poverty are prevalent in these northern countries, and these factors hinder effective conservation.

Using the lens of context to describe the fundamental fragility of this species allows conservationists to make different choices in prioritising scarce resources. For example, the DRC and Cameroon had similar high overall fragility scores, but other factors drove their scores. Cameroon lions had more increased ecological fragility, whereas DRC lion populations were considered fragile because of high political conflict and instability. Therefore, conservationists could decide to direct resources into working with the ecological fragility in Cameroon, which would arguably have more impact and be more accessible than expending resources in the high-risk environment in the DRC.

Choosing which lions to save

Conservationists understand how to deal with ecological fragility. However, addressing the more complicated context of social and political barriers that limit effective lion conservation will require a different set of tools and encompass a far more comprehensive range of stakeholders. This would require levels of involvement from stakeholders such as policymakers, local traditional leadership, international role players and law enforcement. But tackling anthropogenic pressures at a national scale can take a long time.

The study raises interesting philosophical questions about our choices in conservation. Do we direct all our resources into the low-hanging fruit, i.e., the lion populations in stable, well-resourced countries? Is this a feasible long-term strategy? Do we ignore the small (<250) lion populations found in just under half of all lion-range countries in favour of larger populations? How do we do less harm by redirecting resources? Considering that the cost of effective lion conservation would exceed US$3 billion per year, based on rough estimates, how is raising this funding feasible when almost all African lion-range countries are in the top 50% (highest poverty) of the Global Multidimensional Poverty Index?

What is clear from the study is that more systemic interventions are needed in the lion conservation arena. This paper provides the first step in understanding more about the contextual threats facing our rapidly dwindling populations of the roaring icon of Africa.

You can help save wild, free-roaming lions by supporting our “Collar a lion” campaign – in partnership with the Southern African Conservation Trust. Read more here.

References

Nicholson, S.K., Dickman, A., Hinks, A. et al. (2023) “Socio-political and ecological fragility of threatened, free-ranging African lion populations,” Communications Earth & Environment 4, 302.

THIS WEEK

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Elephants vs trees + Expedition Matusadona

On my drive home yesterday I saw a leopard tortoise on the side of the road, his head submerged in a puddle of water from recent early summer rains. Not the tortoise in the epic image above. I parked the car and walked up to him (or her; I didn’t check), thinking he had drowned. On closer inspection I saw that he was sucking water in, eyes closed in ecstasy beneath the surface – his skinny pulsing neck the only sign of life. After about a minute his eyes popped open underwater. He jerked his head out of the water, stared at me myopically and trundled off. I sat for a few minutes reliving the moment, absorbing the energy of what that small temporary puddle of water meant to him.

I need another safari. Chat to you next week, from some very remote spot in Africa. In the meantime, maybe its also time for your next safari – ready-made or crafted just for you. Enjoy the planning process – it’s part of the journey!

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Did you know that an obscure species of rain frog, only ever seen once before, has just been found live and kicking on the north-west coast of South Africa? Branch’s rain frog was first described from a single specimen found in the Northern Cape in 2008, and has not been seen since. Until last week, that is – when the Endangered Wildlife Trust and other researchers rediscovered the frog while surveying priority habitats on the coast. After spotting tiny footprints in the sand dunes, the team tracked these and found not one, but two of the elusive frogs – a major success for future conservation work in the area!

This week we’re showcasing the second in a series of stories from Kingsley Holgate’s Afrika Odyssey expedition – this time on the renaissance of Matusadona National Park. And in some good news, Elephants Alive have found that wire netting can help save Africa’s tree from elephants. Read more in our second story.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/matusadona-a-renaissance-story/
EXPEDITION MATUSADONA
Kingsley Holgate & his Afrika Odyssey expedition team are connecting parks managed by African Parks. Read about their trip to Matusadona

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/net-win-saving-africas-trees-from-elephants/
WIRE NETTING TO SAVE TREES
New research shows that wire-netting can be used to increase tree survival by reducing elephant impact on large trees

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Journey to an island paradise in Malawi, or into the heart of the African bushveld in Zimbabwe. Both idyllic settings offer an irresistible chance to unwind and relax. Enquire today and let your African adventures begin!

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Client report-back – Zambia & Vic Falls

Ulrich Schmauke recently returned from his trip to Kafue National Park, Lower Zambezi National Park, South Luangwa National Park and Victoria Falls with AG:

“Our trip to Zambia was unforgettable. I’ve never seen so much game as we did in just nine days. Sausage Tree Camp and Lion Camp were superb. Lunch in the Zambezi River, and in the bushveld, were unforgettable. Victoria Falls Hotel remains one of my favourite hotels in the world. Christian, as usual, organised the trip (he has organised a few for us before) and all worked out excellently.”

Want to go on a safari like this? Browse our ready-made safaris and chat to our safari experts to plan your ultimate safari!

WATCH: Moving an elephant family to safety. Watch as the Sheldrick Trust translocates a family of elephants – two moms and two calves – off community land and back to the safety of Kenya’s Tsavo East National Park (5:01). Click here to watch

For more videos celebrating Africa, check out our videos here

Resilience and renaissance in Matusadona

To reach Matusadona National Park, the second destination in the Holgate Foundation’s Afrika Odyssey expedition, we cross Botswana’s Tuli Block en route to Zimbabwe and set up a wild camp in community-owned cattle lands. There are still plenty of signs of wildlife around. As it’s the school holidays, the next generation of Holgate explorers – Kingsley Holgate’s grandkids Miabella and Scarlett – have come along on this chapter. They love expedition life and certainly add colour and humour to the journey.

As night falls, a clapped-out bakkie comes rattling down the dirt road, screeches to a stop in a cloud of dust and then bumps across to where we’re pitching our tents. Out tumble four friendly Tswana locals, a big-stomached jovial gent in a holey T-shirt is carrying a 12-bore shotgun. It turns out they’re the community’s anti-poaching/stock-theft brigade. “You are most welcome,” he says with a chuckle, “but please be careful – plenty of elephants around here.” The girls’ eyes go as round as saucers, and they quickly pull their chairs closer to the campfire.

Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.

We dislike busy commercial border crossings, so leave Botswana from the remote Mabolwe Border Post. “You can cross into Zimbabwe only when the Shashe River is dry,” says the friendly border official before selling us hot, fresh magwinyas (small doughnuts) baked by his wife. Then, we’re off across the wide, tree-lined, sandy riverbed. In the small 10mx10m Mlambapele Border Post office on the Zimbabwean side, we can only write good things in a dog-eared notebook marked ‘Compliments and Complaints’. Whilst we go through the rigamarole of checking passports and vehicle papers, Scarlett makes friends with a trussed-up black-and-white goat, which she names Oreo, much to the amusement of the locals, who have other plans for it. We’re the only border-crossers, and there are smiles all around. The entry stamp comes down with a thump – welcome to Zimbabwe!

Elephants rushing to the shores of Lake Kariba

Zigzag to Matusadona

Across Matabeleland we encounter donkey carts, baobabs, friendly smiles and waves from kids in wide-brimmed, school-issue sun hats. We follow little-used dirt tracks through cattle country to enter the Matopos from the south. Our safari sees us camping amongst wildlife with forever views over this ancient place. At sunset, we sit quietly amongst the huge, lichen-covered granite boulders where ley lines are said to interconnect. Iridescent green-blue lizards scuttle over the rockface, and elephant shrews dash between the smooth, round boulders glowing gold in the fading light. A black eagle soars overhead, and the only sound to be heard is birdsong carried on the wind. There’s magnetic energy here.

We dodge potholes down to Mlibizi on the southern shoreline of Lake Kariba, where, around the evening campfire, we chat about our past expeditions on the Zambezi – our favourite river.

The final zigzag to our safari in Matusadona National Park is an adventure, and we pass giant, centuries-old baobabs and neat Batonka villages. We navigate narrow bridges with dangerously crumbling sides. Mopane flies share our roadside lunch of tuna sarmies with tomatoes bought at a village market. We stop at a roadside craft stall and purchase a small, hand-carved wooden rhino from a Batonka craftsman, which we symbolically name ‘Dona’. Miabella buys a little wooden pangolin and calls it ‘Halo’. Black rhinos were once such an iconic species in the Zambezi Valley until poaching wiped them out, and pangolins are now the most trafficked animal in the world. How interesting that, out of this region’s iconic wildlife, the craftsman had chosen to carve these two endangered species.

Resilience

Matusadona means ‘where the dung falls’, referring no doubt to the steepness of this incredibly wild and beautiful escarpment that sharply drops 600m to the Kariba shoreline far below. It is said that on occasion, a round dung dropping can tumble far down the steep, well-pounded elephant tracks that crisscross this ancient gateway. In the rainy season, these tracks transform into a wonderland of waterfalls and adventure-filled treks through deep gorges.

Travelling into Matusadona National Park, we expect a difficult, rough and rocky track from the top of the escarpment to the Kariba lakeshore below. But then we witness something remarkable that this part of the world hasn’t seen in years. It’s a big, noisy, yellow and powerful endangered species: a brand new grader. Thanks to African Parks now managing this venerated Zimbabwean park, the machine is hard at work making the steeply sloping road easily passable, providing a further incentive for 4×4 travellers to make this fascinating journey.

Find out about Zimbabwe for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.

Matusadona offers adventure in 147,000ha of wilderness. Apart from the newly restored lodges and serviced campsites, there are also genuinely wild, unfenced 4×4 sites. We come across some overlanders wild camping next to an inlet of Lake Kariba. Nearby, two big male lions feed on a dead hippo as squabbling vultures scrabble for a foothold in the surrounding trees. A substantial crocodile cruises out into deeper water festooned in green water hyacinth, a single, pale purple flower comically perched above one primaeval eye. We encounter a safari roadblock on the track down to Tashinga Camp – as lions block our path. At the camp, park manager Mike Pelham and his wife Tracey are waiting to welcome us. Surrounded by impala and visited by the occasional elephant, we pitch camp under the spreading branches of giant sycamore fig trees on the shoreline of Lake Kariba.

In the morning, we head to the operations room, where we meet the team from the Matusadona Conservation Trust (MCT) – a vibrant partnership between ZimParks and African Parks that began in 2019. “I’ve never seen people work so hard to become part of the new MCT,” remarks Mike, as members of the law enforcement corps snap to attention. Tough, intelligent, disciplined and committed, the challenges of restoring this park are immense for Mike and his staff: fish and bushmeat poaching, illegal gold panning up in the mountains, destructive fire-burns and human-wildlife conflict. The challenges of restoring the Matusadona ecosystem, protecting the pristine rivers and springs on the escarpment and rebuilding community relationships are all taken in stride. To top it all off, there is also the training up a first-class law enforcement team that will ensure the protection of black rhinos and other vital species when the time comes for them to be re-introduced.

“There’s immense pride here; we don’t compromise on what’s become known as ‘Matusadona quality’. Resilience is the key attribute that we look for in all our staff,” Mike tells us as he stands in front of a map that shows the ruggedness of the park’s terrain, the Kariba shoreline and surrounding community districts. “As you know, things have been tough here in Zim, so a good job, decent living conditions and being paid on time means a lot. We’re also extremely fortunate to have the full support of ZimParks and excellent cooperation with the National Judiciary’s dedicated Wildlife Directorate. Despite the difficulties of the past few years, these two departments have remained solid.”

“But in today’s world, conservation cannot be successful without the support of neighbouring communities,” he continues. “So a big focus of the MCT is working with community structures and district councils to build knowledge and ensure that local people also benefit from Matusadona.” And this is where the African Parks model of community involvement is outstanding. Daniel Sithole, Matusadona’s Community Manager, tells us that tomorrow is Umuganda Day – an idea taken from the Rwandan practice of people coming together once a month to engage in community outreach and help one another.

DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.

The expedition team is all hands-on deck. The following morning, we load one of the expedition Defenders onto a small ferry and chug across the Ume River, pushed along by a noisy, belt-driven, single-cylinder engine to Masamba Fishing Camp. This is one of two commercial livelihood projects on the lakeshore, which have seen a seven-fold increase in the catch thanks to the MCT’s efforts to protect the legal permit holders and stop fish-poaching syndicates from plundering the Matusadona shoreline.

Jovial Chief Mola and the village councillors greet us warmly before we all get to work to give the community hall a colourful makeover. Dirty walls are cleaned and painted, and then, using the ample stencils we’ve brought from SA, the building is transformed into a kaleidoscope of colour with a wildlife theme. Rhino, elephant, giraffe, zebra, lion, cheetah and buffalo, and ‘Musoma Hall’ in big, bold letters are all painted onto the walls. It’s great to see the enthusiasm of the Matusadona staff and camp residents, all wanting their turn with a paint brush, as school children sit in the shade of a big knob-thorn tree, putting the finishing touches to their Wildlife Art assignments. There are bright colours, laughter and smiles all around with Chief Molo presenting simple prizes – building bridges between conservation and communities.

There’s so much good stuff to do and such a good vibe that the Umuganda events stretch into the next two days with Daniel and his community team. There are malaria-prevention drives for pregnant women and mothers with young children, and the distribution of reading glasses to poor-sighted elderly folk at local clinics. Then there is the decorating of the walls of Matusadona Primary School inside the tidy and freshly-painted staff village, and the judging of the regional finals of the children’s Wildlife Art Competition – all with an exciting conservation theme.

Children from the community colour in for the Wildlife Art competition

Conducting eye tests at the local clinic

Tired, dirty and covered in paint, we stagger back to camp each evening. We love the golden glow of the sunsets over Kariba with views across to Bumi Hills. Lions roar at the full moon, we hear grunting hippos, and there is a hyena skulking in the shadows, hoping we’ve left the camp kitchen door open. Around the campfire at night, we get to chat more with Mike and his Matusadona team. We also meet fascinating characters like Richard and Gilly Thornycroft from the Flying For Wildlife Trust, who arrive in their light sport aircraft to fly volunteer aerial patrols. We listen intently to their stories of hope for the future of this magnificent piece of Africa.

Renaissance

One morning, there’s much excitement at the park’s headquarters: a large herd of buffalo has appeared on the Matusadona shoreline for the first time in weeks. “The staff say they can’t believe how the animals are returning to the lakeshore,” says Mike with a grin. “The wildlife isn’t scared anymore – even elephants with tiny babies are revealing themselves again.” What a wonderful sign of this legendary park’s renaissance.

Animals such as buffalo are returning to the lake shore

As always, some symbolic traditions are linked to this Afrika Odyssey expedition. Carrying his rifle as if it’s an extension of his body and reading faint tracks and signs, Mike gives us short cameos of wildlife movements as we track through the mopane woodland to a secret pool fed by the springs that bubble out of the Matusadona escarpment. It’s a beautiful spot; a hippo explodes through the long grass and scrambles up the opposite bank. Mike draws us into a huddle and, in a whisper, says, “In the old days, when Matusadona was a black rhino stronghold, I tracked many of them to their favourite secret drinking pools just like this one.” He reverently dips the expedition calabash into the crystal-clear pool. He collects a thimbleful of symbolic water – a ceremony that will take place in all 22 protected areas managed by African Parks on our 12-country journey.

Collecting water from a pool fed by the springs of the Matusadona escarpment, to add to the symbolic expedition calabash

There’s a strong smell of elephant. We come across a mound of fresh dung, the leaves and grasses hardly chewed – a sign of old age and few teeth. Mike silently tracks forward and points out an elderly elephant cow, her bony head just visible as she browses from a tamarind tree, oblivious to our presence.

As we return to the road, Mike bends down and grabs a fistful of foliage from a grey-green shrub. “This is wild basil, which, along with many other herbs and plants that grow here, makes Matusadona a great habitat for black rhino. One day, if all goes according to plan and the communities approve, we’ll have them back here. It will be a full circle as they will be the progeny of the original Zambezi Valley black rhino, removed 30 years ago to places of safety to protect their genealogy – along with sable and roan antelope and eland, which are also needed to restore the entire ecosystem. When that happens, Matusadona will become an anchor of safety and security – not just for wildlife, but for the wider community. That’s our 10-year goal.”

Matusadona is becoming a safe zone for wildlife such as lions

It’s with a degree of sadness that in the expedition Defenders, we climb back up and over the escarpment trailing clouds of dust. Matusadona has touched our hearts, and we feel like we’ve had a master class in conservation excellence. That night, back on the Zambezi at Deka, we take out the expedition’s Scroll of Peace and Goodwill for Conservation and read the handwritten messages from the Matusadona team.

Mike writes: “The adventure of rebuilding Matusadona has started, and I am incredibly proud that it will be restocked from other protected areas within Zimbabwe. The biggest gift that you can provide from this Afrika Odyssey expedition is to spread the news that Matusadona and Zimbabwe overall are still on the conservation map. Wilderness areas and the possibility for true adventure still exist, and our greatest asset – our people – are friendlier and more welcoming than ever.”

We certainly second that. With a sense of excitement, we continue our journey to connect these irreplaceable African Parks-managed areas across the continent. A great story of hope is unfolding.

Net win – saving Africa’s trees from elephants

South Africans have a peculiar affinity for large, iconic trees. The country’s Limpopo province is home to Africa’s tallest tree and the second thickest tree in the world. South Africa even boasts its own Champion Trees Projects since 1998, run by the Department of Water Affairs and Forestry. Landowners and nature enthusiasts throughout the country are exceptionally proud – and rightly so – of the large trees on their properties and in the nature parks they visit, as they make for iconic landmarks and provide shelter to all kinds of species that call the savannah home. Are you wondering how to best protect trees from elephant damage? Which methods work and when? New research, originally published by Elephants Alive, may have the answers.

The threats faced by trees: elephants and other agents

Where nature reserves house elephants, Africa’s largest land mammal is often singled out as the leading cause of destruction of the large trees with which they share the landscape. Elephants break trees to get easier access to the leaves, roots and nutrients. They also remove the bark to access the nutritious cambium layer underneath. As bark often strips off circularly around the trunk, this may lead to ring barking, causing the tree to die off as the cambium layer is responsible for transporting nutrients upwards from the soil. Yet, elephant feeding on trees has been found to benefit other species: dispersing seeds in fertile dung and improving plant diversity by opening up grassland areas, to name a few. However, elephants are selective about the tree species and heights they forage on, and their presence can eliminate certain tree species or height classes from an area over time. This can have cascading effects on other species that depend on these trees, like raptors or vultures nesting in tall trees.

Besides elephants, tree survival in African savannahs can also be affected by other ecological factors, like fire frequency and intensity, termite infestation, and drought stress. High fire frequencies can negatively affect woody biomass and the regeneration of large tree saplings. Drought stress can cause hydraulic failure and vulnerability to biotic attacks, leading to large tree declines even without the presence of elephants. Smaller herbivores, like impala, have been found to decimate great numbers of tree seedlings, thus negatively affecting tree regeneration.

A divisive debate ensues, where concerns about elephants as an endangered species and their role in preserving biodiversity are juxtaposed with the wish and need to preserve large trees as Africa’s natural landmarks. The complex interactions between elephants, other ecological factors, and tree survival in African savannahs have been causing headaches for conservationists and reserve management for decades. Different strategies have been implemented to limit or redistribute elephant impact to protect large trees. For instance, as elephant foraging is primarily centred around water sources, reducing the number of water points may limit the overall effect of localised destruction and population growth.

Protecting large trees: what & how?

Trees may also be directly protected using “wire-netting” to prevent elephants from stripping the bark, which can facilitate tree mortality from various other causes. Wire-netting has previously been found to improve large-tree survival significantly. Highly cost-effective due to the affordability of materials and ease of application, wire netting can be applied en-masse to protect large amounts of trees at little cost. However, little is known regarding the lifespan of wire netting if not maintained and how effective it is as a long-term tree-protection solution.

Offering an answer to this uncertainty, a newly released study by Elephants Alive shows how wire-netting and various environmental factors, combined with the impact of elephants, influence the survival of large trees. The research offers a better understanding of the conservation challenges that reserve management faces while protecting large trees.

The study was conducted over 12 years in the Associated Private Nature Reserves (APNR) in South Africa. The APNR shares an unfenced boundary west of the Kruger National Park. The Elephants Alive research team, led by Dr. Michelle Henley and Robin Cook, conducted field assessments of 2,758 trees in 2008, 2012, 2017, and 2020. The tree species under investigation were false marula, knobthorn, and marula trees. Approximately half (or 1,395 trees) were wire-netted at the beginning of the study period.

The main goals of the study were to:

Investigate how many of each type of tree survived over the 12 years in the APNR.
Examine whether using wire netting to protect the trees affected their survival during the same 12-year period.
Understand how various environmental factors (drought, fire), combined with the impact of elephants, influenced the survival of these trees during three different surveys conducted within the 12-year timeframe.

During their field assessments, the researchers recorded the diameter of the tree trunk, fire damage, presence of termites, ants and bracket fungus, the level of elephant impact on each tree, whether the tree had wire netting, the condition of the wire netting, and its survival status. For each year, the researchers also collected data on the mean annual rainfall closest to the trees’ location, elephant-bull and breeding-herd densities, and the distance to the nearest surface waterhole.

Wire-netting to the rescue: a simple solution to a complex issue?

In total, 33% of trees survived the 12-year study period. The distance to water sources did not significantly affect tree mortality, as the multitude of artificial waterholes in the APNR provides ready access to water. This finding emphasises the importance of other methods to limit the detrimental effects of elephant impact on large trees in areas where limiting water sources isn’t an option.

The study showed that using wire netting significantly improved the survival of large trees. Wire netting prevents elephants from bark-stripping, but the trees remain vulnerable to heavier forms of elephant impact like stem snapping and uprooting. Wire-netting is thus most successful for trees with a more than 40cm diameter. The method of wire-netting is a second important aspect of the success rate. Nevertheless, the effectiveness of wire-netting decreased after four years if the netting lost its structural integrity. Over one-fifth of the wire-netted trees in the study had damaged or fallen-off chicken mesh, making the wire-netting ineffective against bark-stripping. This highlights that wire netting can lose its effectiveness if not properly maintained. Conservation managers should consider replacing the chicken mesh after about four years to ensure continued tree protection.

The researchers also discovered tree survival was lowest during drought, particularly for false marula and knobthorn. This suggests that drought can negatively affect the survival of these tree species. Elephants, mainly, increase their impact on trees during drier months when grass quality decreases. This impact may be further amplified for trees with shallow rooting systems (like false marula and knobthorn), making them vulnerable to water stress and competition for soil water compared to trees with deeper roots. An increased percentage of dead marula trees during the final survey period (2018-2020) may be attributed to a fire that affected the area where many of these trees were located. Adult marula trees are particularly susceptible to intense fires, especially after experiencing elephant impact.

Left: A marula tree with wire netting and termite damage (the reddish mud covering the bark). Right: Elephant reaching for higher branches

Elephants Alive’s research provides evidence of how the complexity of environmental factors has affected the mortality trends of three large tree species within the APNR savannah system over 12 years. The results show that wire-netting can be used as a mitigation method to significantly increase tree survival by reducing elephant impact on these trees. However, conservation managers must replace wire netting every four years to maintain efficiency. The results have also shown that tree survival was positively affected by an increase in mean annual rainfall (for false marula and knobthorn) and negatively affected by fire events (marula trees). These results provide important insights into how various environmental factors have influenced large tree survival where trees co-occur with elephants.

Reference

Cook, R. M., Witkowski, E. T. F. and Henley, M. D. (2023) “Survival Trends (2008-2020) of Three Tree Species in Response to Elephant Impact, Environmental Variation, and Stem Wire-Netting Protection in an African Savannah,” Forest Ecology and Management, 545

Article originally published by Elephants Alive (read Battle of the Titans: Africa’s largest land mammal vs Africa’s largest trees here)

THIS WEEK

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Questionable desert-adapted lion hunt + wild pigs

The most frustrating part of our mission to tell Africa’s stories warts-and-all is trying to unearth the facts when members of the wildlife industries appear to have behaved badly. Our story below about the latest trophy hunting of a livestock-killing Namibian desert-adapted lion is a case in point.

The lack of transparency; in fact let’s call this what it is – a blanket of secrecy – is not conducive to finding solutions to the many problems that beset our wild places as humans and wildlife vie for territory. During our attempts to determine two critical issues – how the trophy hunters found this lion in that vast desert and where he was killed – we were stonewalled by those who have the info and the mandate to communicate and validate the facts so that there is no speculation. Both issues go to the core of whether this was a legal hunt. Legality is important in the quest for sustainable solutions, right?

Based on the facts at hand, we stand by our deductive reasoning as detailed in the article, but I have assured the Namibian powers-that-be that we will amend the article and issue a public statement if any requested contradictory evidence comes to light – via official or other channels.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

The dead walk among us. Or, at least, zombie ants do. Did you know that Ophiocordyceps unilateralis (cordyceps for short) – the zombie-making fungus featured in The Last of Us – is real?

The parasitic fungus infects carpenter ants, where its spores are picked up by the ant on the rainforest floor (check out this zombie ant in Sapo National Park, Liberia). In an extraordinary feat of mind control, the fungus forces the ant to leave the safety of its nest, climb to a height and lock its mouth around a leaf, before growing and then feeding off the ant’s vital organs. Luckily, this parasitic fungi cannot infect humans (for now…).

This week, don’t miss our incredibly important story on the questionable hunting of a desert-adapted lion, and our comprehensive guide to the many wild pigs of Africa – both below.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/trophy-hunted-namibian-desert-adapted-lion-here-are-the-facts/
TROPHY HUNT
A male desert-adapted lion has been hunted amidst suspicious circumstances in Namibia – we ask questions of MEFT

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/the-wild-pigs-of-africa/
WILD PIGS
Our guide to the six species of wild pigs in Africa: from warthogs, to bushpigs, hogs and boars

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The wild pigs of Africa

From the despotic Napolean and arachnophile Wilbur to timid Piglet and hardworking sheep-pig Babe, suids (pigs) feature prominently in literature and popular culture. This is perhaps unsurprising given that the domestic pig is one of the most numerous large animals on the planet. However, there are also at least 18 wild species in the Suidae family (depending on the taxonomist), indigenous to Europe, Asia, and Africa. Of these, six species of wild pigs are found on the African continent, rooting their way across savannahs, lurking along dark forest paths, and enjoying a mud wallow as much as the next pig – these are the wild pigs of Africa.

**The warthogs (Phacochoerus africanus and Phacochoerus aeithiopicus)**

With their wide distribution and diurnal habits (and iconic vocals of a free-spirited, animated representative), warthogs are undoubtedly the most famous of all of Africa’s suids, often spotted on the quintessential African safari. These hardy animals are ubiquitous across savannahs, and almost any safari is all but guaranteed to yield at least one sighting. Unbeknownst to most, there are two species of warthogs roaming the continent – the common warthog (Phacochoerus africanus) spread throughout much of sub-Saharan Africa and the desert warthog (Phacochoerus aeithiopicus), which is isolated to the Horn of Africa.

Adult warthogs attain a size of around 75kg when fully grown, though mature males may weigh as much as 150kg. Their grey, wrinkled skin is covered by a spare smattering of coarse hair and the characteristic facial “warts” (actually just outgrowths of thick skin) for which they are named are particularly well-developed in boars, often extending as much as 15cm from below their eyes. The tusks of the males are also usually longer than those of the females. These modified canine teeth exist in pairs – the impressive upper maxillary pair and the shorter but razor-sharp mandibular pair. Though built a bit like tanks, warthogs display an astonishing turn of speed when necessary, and if flight fails, the tusks can be utilised as deadly weapons in a fight.

Like most species, warthogs subsist on a primarily herbivorous diet, using their specialised snouts to shovel the juiciest bulbs and roots. However, they will supplement this carbohydrate-heavy fare with insects, eggs and even carrion on occasion. After a day foraging, they retreat to underground burrows to pass the dangerous hours of darkness. Boars in their prime are usually solitary (except during the short, fierce breeding season), but females remain in small natal sounders and will care for each other’s piglets.

The other wild pigs

Four additional species of wild pigs prominently found in Africa are the bushpig, red river hog, giant forest hog, and the African subspecies of the Eurasian wild boar – the North African boar.

**The bushpig (Potamochoerus larvatus)**

The stocky, shaggy bushpig overlaps considerably with the distribution of its distant cousin, the warthog. However, in contrast, few safari-goers ever glimpse these shy animals. Their evasion can be partly explained by their predominantly nocturnal habits, but, in truth, despite their reputation as “aggressive” and “dangerous” animals, bushpigs are usually extremely wary of humans and avoid them where possible.

Though roughly the same average mass as warthogs, this is where the physical similarities between the two pigs end. Bushpigs are covered in a thick, bristly coat that can vary in colour from a reddish-brown to dark grey, often with a lighter underbelly and a white mane. Their eyes are tiny, and the tusks are all but hidden beneath the thick skin of the snout (though they are still present and capable of inflicting considerable damage). Bizarrely, despite significant and apparent differences, warthogs and bushpigs were considered the same species for most of the 20th century and bushpigs only attained species status in the early 90s.

As the name implies, bushpigs prefer dense vegetation and are often found in thickets, forests, swampland or riverine areas. However, they are adaptable and will readily occupy disturbed habitats around agricultural areas, often to the dis”grunt”lement of the neighbouring farmers. Like warthogs, bushpigs rely heavily on plant matter for sustenance, and their status as crop pests is often well-deserved as they have a taste for anything from sugarcane and maize to sweet potatoes and carrots. However, their omnivorous palate is also highly developed, favouring eggs, fledgling birds and carrion in any state of decay. They have even been observed stalking and killing young antelope.

Bushpigs are social animals and live in breeding sounders of up to 12 or more members. The dominant individuals, especially the boars, are very defensive of their sounders and intruders (including two-legged ones) will be chased away at considerable speed.

**Red river hog (Potamochoerus porcus)**

A close relative of the bushpig, red river hogs (pictured in this story’s cover image) are found primarily in the rainforests of West and Central Africa and are perhaps the most winsome of all Africa’s porcine offerings. They are covered by a luxurious pelt of ochre-coloured fur, which contrasts dramatically with their black and white markings. The comically over-large ears end in long, thin tufts outlined by a shock of white hair. These curl at the tips, giving the impression that the hogs have donned the African equivalent of a court jester’s hat. In contrast, the tiny piglets are decorated with a delicate pattern of pale stripes and spots.

Their diet and social structure are similar to that of the bushpig, and they communicate continuously with other members of the sounder with a vast repertoire of grunts and squeals. Though primarily nocturnal, they may emerge to forage and wallow around water points during the day. The forest baïs of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the Republic of the Congo are among some of the best places to encounter them in the wild.

**Giant forest hog (Hylochoerus meinertzhageni)**

In terms of averages, the giant forest hog is considered the largest of all living wild pigs but is also one of the world’s most mysterious. Like the red river hogs, they lurk in the depths of the thick forests in West and Central Africa. Despite their intimidating size and Gothic covering of jet-black fur, giant forest hogs are exceptionally retiring. They are seldom encountered in the wild, even by those who research their habits.

Consequently, there is still much more to learn about this porcine colossus, from subspecies (or even species) distinctions to conservation status. We know they live in family groups, and these sounders include a dominant boar that plays a hands-on (hoof-on?) role in protecting offspring. There is also a strong suspicion that the giant forest hog may be more threatened than its IUCN Red List status of “least concern” implies due to snaring and bushmeat poaching.

**Eurasian wild pig/wild boar (*Sus scrofa***)

As the ancestor of most domestic pig breeds, the Eurasian wild pig or wild boar is a relatively well-known species (though one was somehow mistaken for an escaped lion in Berlin in mid-2023!). These dishevelled beasts are widespread across most of Europe and Asia and have been introduced to North America and Australasia (where they have become a problem in some areas). The African subspecies – the North African boar (Sus scrofa algira – also called the Barbary wild boar) – is smaller than its European relatives and is found in Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia.

Trophy hunted: Namibian desert-adapted lion – here are the facts

Another desert-adapted lion has been trophy hunted in Namibia. The collared lion, known as ‘XPL-107’ and ‘Mwezi’ by researchers, was the only remaining black-maned desert-adapted lion in the area.

The established facts, as detailed below, led to us asking a few uncomfortable questions of a senior representative of Namibia’s Ministry of Environment and Forestry (MEFT). We use his replies, evidence gleaned from our sources and deductive reasoning to arrive at serious doubts about the legality of this hunt.

Facts & evidence:

The location of the lion on the day of his demise – as evidenced by data from his collar GPS device – suggests he was hunted either in Skeleton Coast National Park (illegal) or in an adjoining concession operated solely for tourism purposes (unauthorised). The collar provides data every four hours via satellite, allowing for an accurate record of his movements on 11 October 2023 – the day he was killed:
- 12h00: XPL-107 was located 4km inside Skeleton Coast National Park. Lions usually rest up in shade during the heat of the day – especially during summer – and only move around or hunt during the cooler hours. He was located within 600m of this position for the eight hours between 04h00 and 12h00.
- 16h00: failed collar ping. Collar pings have an almost 100% success rate. Failure would suggest that by 16h00, the lion was being transported in the back of a vehicle, GPS device facing the floor.
- 20h00: XPL-107’s body is located at Khowarib hunting camp. This is 99km as the crow flies from his position at 12h00 – along very poor roads that would take a vehicle many hours to traverse. Ironically, this ping also triggered an ‘Early Warning System’ – designed to notify monitors that a lion has moved into an area of potential human-wildlife conflict. The above location pings suggest that XPL-107 was killed between 12h00 and 16h00. Bearing in mind that lions seldom move great distances during the heat of the day, deductive reasoning suggests that this lion was either killed inside Skeleton Coast National Park (illegal) or in neighbouring community land leased to a tourism company (unauthorised). Also note that if XPL-107 had moved outside of these protected areas, his collar would have sent an early-warning system ping. The only such ping occurred when his carcass was located in the hunting camp.
No designated officials within the relevant conservancies or concession holders were informed that there was a legitimate hunt authorised in the area. We are also informed that neither the Directorate of Scientific Services at MEFT nor the relevant MEFT lion-conflict manager were informed about the planned hunt.
We questioned the MEFT representative during a telephone call as to how the trophy hunting party located XPL-107 in such a vast area and, specifically, whether the collar location data was used for this purpose. Research collars are for the purposes of research and human-wildlife conflict prevention. The representative denied the use of the collar location data by the trophy hunting party. However, we know that one particular MEFT official who did not show prior interest in the location data of any lions, logged in every day from 21 September 2023 (when XPL-107 was named a ‘problem-causing animal’) until the day the lion was shot. This particular official only looked at XPL-107 data and did not log in again after the day XPL-107 was killed. Deductive reasoning based on this information and the hunting party movements described below would suggest that the collar data was used to locate XPL-107 for trophy-hunting purposes.
The movement of two vehicles carrying the hunting party (including two foreign nationals and a rifle) and MEFT officials was recorded as follows:
- The two vehicles entered the Palmwag concession at the Aub gate
- On being questioned about the rifle, MEFT claimed they were there for ‘policing’. No permit related to a hunt was presented
- There is no record of the vehicles leaving the area via an official/manned gate
XPL-107 was declared a ‘problem-causing animal’ by MEFT around 21 September 2023 – after being suspected of killing livestock on two occasions in July 2023. In the first incident, he was seen by a scout where 14 goats were killed, and data from his collar verified his presence. In the second incident, where a Brahman bull was killed, XPL-107 was not seen, but collar data confirms that he was in the area at the time. There appears to be little doubt that he was responsible for these livestock deaths. There do, however, seem to be doubts about whether MEFT followed the necessary procedures to declare XPL-107 a so-called ‘problem-causing animal’. Delhra, a Namibian non-profit working with local farming communities to preserve wildlife within the Kunene region of Namibia, has suggested in various social media announcements that the Minister must, in terms of section 53 of the Nature Conservation Ordinance 4 of 1975, declare a problem-causing animal as such via a notice in the Official Gazette. During our telephone discussion with a MEFT spokesperson, it was confirmed that MEFT had not done so. The same MEFT representative undertook to provide incident reports related to the two livestock attacks but has not yet done so.
Unlike with other human-lion conflict cases in this area, no attempt was made to use established mitigation measures to avoid killing another desert-adapted lion. A few weeks before this, lion OPL24 was successfully relocated after killing a few goats. Further back, lion XPL131, who caused far greater damage than XPL107, was relocated by MEFT twice before finally being declared a problem-causing animal.
The Ehi-rovipuka Conservancy has been allocated two male lions as trophies this year. The trophy hunting of XPL107 will not be counted as one of these trophies because his killing was enabled under the ‘problem-causing animal’ provisions. And so, two additional male lions will be removed from the threatened desert-adapted lion population for trophy-hunting purposes.
XPL-107 was seen mating with the last surviving lioness of the Obab Pride from 29 September to 5 October 2023 – as reported by researchers – days before he was shot. Researchers described him as ‘one of the most reproductively successful males in the population’.
Follow the money: According to the MEFT official we spoke to, this trophy hunt generated a total of N$300,000 for local communities and N$20,000 for a fund for conservation and human-wildlife management. The total amounts to approximately US$17,000 – which is about 28% of the likely trophy fee of US$60,000 paid by the trophy hunting client (as per a recent trophy hunting advertising campaign for a ‘male lion trophy’ in Namibia). The important question is why African communities are continually being short-changed by the trophy hunting industry.

About desert-adapted lions and the communities that share their landscape

Desert-adapted lions occupy an area of approximately 40,000 km² in Namibia’s remote and barren northwest. They share this landscape with about 19,300 humans – mostly small-scale pastoralists for whom drought and predation represent significant threats to livelihoods. Lions account for 20% of livestock losses.

The population of lions in the Kunene Region to the northwest of Etosha National Park is only 57-60 individuals, BUT of these, an estimated 24 are desert-adapted lions (the far-westerly population). This population fluctuates significantly based on rainfall, prey base and human persecution. The entire population in the Kunene Region went from a low of perhaps 20 individuals in the late 1990s to an estimated high of 180 in 2015.

Convincing livestock farmers that lions should occupy the same landscape at all is a tough ask, especially when there are no obvious benefits. The tenuous relationship between communal farmers and lions has engendered retaliatory and preventive killing of lions. Since 2000, retaliatory killings have accounted for 89% of recorded lion (non-cub) mortalities – with more than 130 lions killed during this period.

Some view trophy hunting as one model demonstrating economic benefits to local people – if the industry is managed sustainably and legally. Considerable effort is made to prevent and mitigate livestock losses resulting from lion predation. One such method is to track individual lions using satellite collars, which trigger warning SMSs when the lions are near livestock so that local people can chase the lions away. Another method is the provision of safe fenced areas where livestock can be moved at night.

The desert-adapted lion is not a separate species from lions found in less arid areas. They do, however, display remarkable adaptions that enable them to live in this inhospitable region – which non-adapted lions would not survive.

READ MORE about desert-adapted lions and measures to protect them.

SEE MORE photos of desert-adapted lions.

Read about the Desert Lion Conservation Trust here.

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Kruger rhino tally + salt pan archaeology + bad banks

Did you know that a handful of top banks have invested into companies that make traditional Chinese medicine from endangered animal parts? Think pangolins, rhinos, leopards and tigers.

Based in Australia, Canada, the EU, Japan, Switzerland, the UK and USA, many of these banks are signatories to the Principles for Responsible Investment or members of the International Corporate Governance Network, which has publicly expressed concerns about biodiversity loss and species extinctions. Seven are members of The Royal Foundation’s United for Wildlife (UfW) Financial Taskforce, which was launched in 2018 to stop the trafficking of wildlife. Trading in these animal parts is also strictly forbidden by CITES.

You will find further info and the list of the banks here. Boycotting them probably won’t achieve much. However, writing to their CEOs to express your disappointment – and persisting when the doors are inevitably slammed shut, will do more good than you may realise. CEOs are human too, and hundreds of weighty messages will achieve the desired effect. You know what to do …

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Invasive mammals are the main cause of animal extinctions on islands worldwide. Did you know that mice are eating their way through the Marion Island bird population – even giants like wandering albatrosses?

Marion Island is an important seabird stronghold in the sub-Antarctic Indian Ocean, and invasive house mice accidentally introduced to the island by sealers in the 1800s are devastating its populations. But, there is hope: Learn more about the Mouse Free Marion project here.

This week, we bring you the latest update on Kruger’s rhino population, and fascinating insights into the archaeological wonders found in the Makgadikgadi salt pans.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/kruger-rhino-population-update-losses-continue/
KRUGER RHINOS
Rhino populations in Kruger National Park continue to decline despite innovative strategies implemented to prevent rhino poaching

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/archaeological-magic-in-the-makgadikgadi/
SALT PAN ARCHAEOLOGY
Archaeological sites in the Makgadikgadi salt pans reveal how ancient humans used black silcrete formed from lake mud to make tools

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Collar a Lion campaign

Long Shields Guardian Programme

How are men and women living around Hwange National Park helping to prevent incidents of human-wildlife conflict? The Long Shields Guardian Programme employs and trains people from local communities to protect villages from lions, safeguard cattle, and aid in wildlife management. GPS collars fitted on lions provide an early-warning system to the guardians, who are able to act quickly to prevent incidents from happening. Guardians patrol daily, alerting villagers through a WhatsApp group when lions approach, deterring them from community lands. This innovative ‘Mobile Boma’ concept helps protect livestock, enhances food security, and reduces lion killings. The programme’s expansion has led to an increase in crop yields, a reduction in predation, and fewer retaliatory lion deaths. Find out more about the programme and donate to support peaceful human-lion coexistence.

WATCH: Making contact: A K9 conservation story. This series tells the personal stories of companionship, perseverance and connection of those fighting the scourge of poaching in South Africa, while highlighting the key organisations and protected areas making a difference on the ground (4:53). Click here to watch

For more videos celebrating Africa, check out our videos here

Archaeological magic in Makgadikgadi

The salt pans of Botswana’ Makgadikgadi hold an unusual magic that I’ve heard described as “humbling”, “healing”, or even “disturbing”. What is it about this dusty old lakebed, jammed full of salt and grass and scrub mopane, that makes visitors feel this way? That seems to challenge our sense of self, irreversibly? That draws people back time and time again? In the Makgadikgadi, the skies are huge, and the sense of space is overwhelming. But there is more than the landscape. As part of a team of scientists who have spent time studying the magic of the Makgadikgadi, we have long known that, just below the saltpan surface of the pans lies an ancient story written in stone artefacts, thousands of years ago. Archeologists are now just beginning to find the ability to read it.

Bounded by ancient shorelines, Botswana’s salt pans were once one part of one of Africa’s largest lakes. Running nearly 200km from east to west, this lake covered an area of 66,000km² –about the size of Sri Lanka. The lake has come and gone over the last hundred thousand years as tectonism has reorganised river systems. Natural climate cycles during the last 200,000 years have also periodically brought vastly different rainfall conditions to the region. Today, the site is made up of mostly mud and puddles, with the wettest parts in Sowa Pan in the east supporting an extraordinary diversity of birdlife in the rainy season – including a migration of up to 88,000 pairs of flamingos.

In the dry winter months, most of the surface dries out and firms up – a little like a giant bowl of porridge left out in the sun. Self-drivers know the risks here well: break through the hard-baked porridge top, and it might cost you days of digging, if not your entire vehicle. Many come here for that challenge. Others are drawn by the vast expanse of salt and sky, the baobabs that mark its boundaries, and the 20,000-body strong migration of zebra and wildebeest that covet the Makgadikgadi’s mineral-rich grasslands.

Find out about Makgadikgadi Pans for your next Botswana salt pans expedition. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.

More recently, however, tourists are coming for another reason. In 2019, a controversial academic paper used mitochondrial genetic evidence to argue that the Makgadikgadi was once the ‘homeland’ of humanity, from which groups of anatomically modern humans migrated between 130,000– 110,000 years ago. That argument has not been persuasive for most scientists working on human origins, but it has thrown a spotlight on a little-known quirk of this ancient lakebed – that it is filled with the stone tools of ancient humans.

For a long time, the difficulties of operating in an ephemerally stable bowl of porridge kept all but the most eager of archaeologists at bay. But, over the last seven years, our small team of international scientists in collaboration with the University of Botswana have painstakingly pieced together thousands of fragments of worked silcrete to try to understand how long humanity has been hanging out in this lakebed and what on earth they might have been doing here.

Logging over 80 new Stone Age archaeological sites and artefact scatters on the lakebed, the researchers excavated six of these in detail, stripping back the surface salt rind to carefully map every fragment of stone artefact deposited at the sites. The archaeologists then used an approach known as Chaine Operatoire – reconstructing the operational sequence of the stone tool makers to see what choices those humans were making in the past. How was the tool made? How was it used? Resharpened? Recycled? Why was it discarded?

All the excavated sites had a common theme – they withheld the fleeting remnants of a band of Middle Stone Age humans who sat for a few moments or hours on a dry lake bed, taking time out to fashion tools out of silcrete. Geochemical fingerprinting of both the artefacts and natural outcrops of silcrete in the basin enabled geologists to determine where the material for making the tools had come from. The chemical signatures suggest this was a landscape well-known to Middle Stone Age people, and evidence shows these people would move large lumps of suitable rock between 7 and 55km if they thought it was high enough quality. Nearly all the archaeological finds were made from black silcrete formed from the lake mud, its fine-grained texture perfect for fashioning tools.

The abundance of silcrete in the basin lent itself to perfectionism, with tool-makers happy to discard tools impaired by the slightest mistake. Bungled artefacts were often found a little way from where the rest of the knapped fragments were refitted, and the archaeologists like to joke that they might have been thrown in anger or frustration at the mistake – a 70,000-year-old tantrum recorded in mud and stone. No perfect tools were found at any of the sites – those had presumably been taken away for hunting elsewhere. Neither was there evidence of any of the imperfect remnants used in hunting. These were most likely retooling sites for groups of people rich in time and stone. Sometimes, the knappers produced knives and scrapers, but mostly, they made points that were symmetrical and not too thick, the kind that might be hafted as a spear for hunting. It is hard not to speculate that all those years ago, we too may have once been much like the lions that annually follow the herds of migrating Zebra into the basin today: walking a journey that offered rich rewards.

Sampling for Optically Stimulated Luminescence dating

Perhaps the biggest surprise in this geochemically active basin full of migrating ungulates was how well-preserved these sites were. In some cases, locating where a single human sat and fashioned a tool 75,000 years ago was possible. As well as piecing together the archaeology, our team used Optically Stimulated Luminescence (OSL) dating to reconstruct how and when the landforms and sediments around the sites were deposited. From this, we concluded that several of these sites were rapidly buried by lake sediments not long after they were occupied. They remained buried for thousands of years until sometime in the last few centuries when the lakebed experienced some of the driest conditions of its long and dramatic history. Eroding as vast plumes of dust, removing these ancient lake sediments reveals older surfaces from past dry times. This unique landscape history has allowed the lake to preserve phenomenal snippets of our human story – windows that transcended extraordinary periods to open onto a few tangible moments of our collective past.

Time seems compressed in the Makgadikgadi, and it feels like one can almost touch the ghosts of humanity’s ancestors. Sometimes, I watch visitors sit on that lakebed; I see them take in the enormity of that connection. I see them reach out and touch a rock last held by a man or woman who walked here 70,000 years ago. I see them trying to picture a 66,000km² lake, already disturbed by the vastness of billions of stars above their heads, already in awe of the giant Baobabs that have witnessed so many of us come and go over thousands of years. I see their sense of place in the big picture being profoundly destabilised, and I see them clock the extraordinary collective journey of humanity. In a world that is now so obsessively focused on the self, this place provides a very different perspective, one that can be healing, humbling, and disturbing. That is the magic of the Makgadikgadi.

Kruger rhino population update – the losses continue

Rhino populations in Kruger National Park continue to decline despite innovative strategies implemented to prevent rhino poaching. The latest population count, reported in the SANParks Annual Report 2022/2023, reveals that the total rhino population has declined by 16.2%, from an estimated 2,458 rhinos in 2021 to 2,060 in 2022.

Despite investing in access control, air support, security staff, specialised detection technology, K9 Units, dehorning and ranger training, 98 rhinos were lost to poaching in Kruger National Park in 2022. This is a decrease of 49.7% in poaching compared to the 195 rhinos lost in 2021.

“Innovative strategies implemented in Kruger National Park, which has historically borne the brunt of this scourge, led to a decline in poaching numbers by 49,74% compared to the previous year,” says Pam Yako, Chairperson of the Board for SANParks.

7.1% of the white rhino population was lost to poaching and 3.4% of the black rhino population.

There were an estimated 1,850 (between 1,711 and 1,988*) white rhinos in Kruger by the end of 2022, compared to the 2,250 (between 1,986 and 2,513*) counted in 2021. For black rhinos, the 2022 survey estimated 210 black rhinos present in Kruger, compared to 208 for the 2021 reporting period*.

(*Editorial note: All population estimates are given a margin of error, as population counts over large areas carry uncertainty. When calculating the percentage decline/increase, these margins of error are included in the statistical analysis. Although the 2022/2023 annual report states that for “the past three years, black rhinos remained at an estimated 210 individuals,” actual estimates from these reporting periods were 208 for 2021 and 202 for 2020.)

SANParks also reported that the lagging effects of drought contributed to the continuing decline in white rhino numbers. In contrast, black rhinos did not experience the drought effect, and births were slightly higher than total losses.

The Kruger National Park Rhino Management Plan zones the park into core areas with suitable rhino habitats. In these core conservation zones, there was an overall decline of 19.58% in the rhino population, “primarily due to white rhinos leaving these areas in response to poaching and moving to known localities of suitable habitat,” according to the report. On a positive note, the black rhino population in these core conservation zones increased by 12% since 2020, and substantial increases in black rhino populations were recorded in certain priority zones.

SANParks referenced an initiative to establish rhino strongholds outside Kruger to encourage range expansion. Furthermore, 702 rhinos were dehorned in Kruger, and by the end of 2022, approximately 70% of the park’s rhinos had no horns. (Dehorning has been highlighted as an effective strategy in reducing poaching).

Despite the decrease in poaching incidents in Kruger, reports have shown a shift in poaching away from the Kruger National Park to private reserves in KwaZulu-Natal. However, no rhinos were lost to poaching in the six other SANPArks-operated parks hosting rhinos (Addo Elephant, Karoo, Mapungubwe, Marakele, Mokala and Mountain Zebra National Parks). The rhino populations in these parks increased by 7%.

The annual report also highlights cause for concern regarding snaring for bushmeat in and around parks. SANParks removed one snare from a black rhino, treated 17 injured white and two black rhinos and recovered five white rhino orphans in Kruger, stating that many of these cases were linked to snaring targeting other species.

SANParks also reported that it has started removing disease-free rhinos from Kruger (cleared of bovine tuberculosis), but “this has limited options and can affect the dynamics between the remaining rhinos.”

While poaching rates have shown a significant decline, an analysis of Kruger National Park’s overall population estimates over the past ten years indicates a continued downward trend in rhino numbers despite an increase in anti-poaching initiatives. In the past ten years, Kruger’s total rhino population has decreased by 78%, from 9,383 in 2013 to 2,060 by the end of 2022.

“It has become evident that South Africa needs a species recovery plan for white rhino that considers the support required for conserving rhino across extensive wildlife systems,” says Minister of the Department of Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment Barbara Creecy. “Partnerships with private rhino owners will be important to the plan. SANParks has been requested to lead the development of such a recovery plan as a key element of its work in this coming financial year.”

Further reading

Read the previous update on rhino populations in Kruger for the 2021 period here.

THIS WEEK

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Deadly electric fences + East vs Southern African safari

We are deep into my favourite safari months in Southern Africa. October and November see searing heat and clouds of dust – keeping most holidaymakers away and reserving the epic wildlife encounters for connoisseurs. The lack of fresh water sees wildlife congregated near the few remaining drinking spots, and high drama as tempers flare and predators cash in. Welcome early rains may take the edge off the heat and dust for a day or two, but the action continues unabated.

Meanwhile my sources tell me that elephant poaching is on the rise again in northern Botswana. Apparently the Zambian syndicates that have stripped Botswana of her rhino population have taken many tons of raw ivory in the last few months – including one of the few remaining tuskers (giant elephants with tusks that weigh 100 pounds each side). Northern Kruger National Park is also under siege, with lions and vultures being targeted. Perhaps one day our governments will protect their revenue-producing, job-creating wildlife with as much passion as they do their salaries and errant colleagues …

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

What is the deadliest cat in Africa? The answer may surprise you. (Unless, of course, you’ve seen the videos of these cats surfacing in recent years).

Lions, mightily ferocious, have a hunting success rate of 19-25%. Leopards kill their targets 38% of the time. One of the most lethal predators in Africa, cheetahs, who snap up their prey on 58% of their hunts, could almost be named the greatest hunting cat. But the crown for deadliest feline in Africa goes to its tiniest: the black-footed cat. Weighing in at around 2kg, these cats have a hunting success rate of 60%. Though they may resemble domestic tabby cats, and their bright eyes and bushy tails make them incredibly endearing, these little killers capture more prey in a single night than a leopard does in six months.

Despite its status as one of Africa’s deadliest animals, these fatal felines are extremely rare and under-researched. Little data is available on black-footed cats, making conservation of the species very difficult. They are so tiny that they cannot even trigger regular camera traps. Thankfully, a small group of scientists is putting this “anthill tiger” on the map, having established a database on the cats and advocating for their protection. You can learn more about these kitty killer machines here.

Below, check out our handy guide that will help you choose between an East or Southern African safari, and read our story on the animal toll of electric fences.

Happy celebrating Africa to you!

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/travel/east-africa-vs-southern-africa-safari-which-is-best
EAST VS SOUTH
East Africa and Southern Africa offer distinct safari experiences, from high wildlife volumes to a diversity of landscapes and species. Here’s the lowdown on the highlights of each

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/shock-value-the-animal-toll-of-electric-fences/
SHOCK VALUE
What is the animal toll of electric fences? Safeguarding protected areas comes at the expense of wildlife, says research

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“Shock” value – the animal toll of electric fences

Pangolins, steenboks, and large reptile species, including rock monitors and tortoises – were the species most likely to be killed by electric fences in a new study published in the African Journal of Wildlife Research. According to the author, body size, defensive behaviour, and seasonal flux, all play a role in influencing the risk of an animal having a fatal encounter with an electric fence.

Throughout Africa, fences (and many other anthropogenic structures such as roads) have changed the face of the natural landscape. In some instances, they play an essential role in safeguarding protected areas, conserving endangered species, and reducing human-wildlife conflict. Equally, the deleterious effects of these barriers on wildlife regarding habitat fragmentation, migration and seasonal resource access are relatively well documented.

In much of southern Africa, electrified fencing is utilised by both the state and private sectors to delineate property boundaries and constrain animal movement. In South Africa, private reserves, game ranches (usually for hunting purposes), and intensive wildlife farming operations have multiplied in recent decades, with a concurrent increase in electric fencing. Previous studies have raised concerns about the dangers that these electric fences pose to ground pangolin and tortoises. However, while the potential adverse effects of electric fences have long been known to reserve managers and ecologists, research quantifying the threat and risk factors to other species remains scant.

Electric fence — Slow-moving tortoises retract into their shells when shocked, and therefore remain in contact with the live wire

The new research was conducted on the Kalahari Oryx Private Game Farm in the Northern Cape Province of South Africa. 108km of electric fencing was monitored over nearly five years. During this time, Dr Darren Pietersen of the University of Pretoria recorded 782 wildlife interactions with the electric fence involving 43 vertebrates, including mammal, reptile, and bird species. Two hundred thirteen of these encounters were fatal. The species with the highest mortality rates were rock monitors (59), steenboks (40), pangolins (28), serrated tent tortoises (28) and kori bustards (15). Naturally, animals found entangled with the fence but still alive were rescued and either released or rehabilitated, including six pangolins, two rock monitors, two kori bustards and two red hartebeests.

Overall, Pietersen found that reptiles were most likely to be killed by an interaction with electrified fencing, followed by birds and then mammals. He identified three critical factors that influenced the outcome of such an encounter – size, season and defensive behaviour. Very small species, such as rodents and lizards, can pass beneath the wire strands unharmed, and large animals may damage the fence but are unlikely to become entangled or electrocuted. Medium-sized animals such as pangolins and monitor lizards large enough to touch the wires but still small enough to become entangled are most at risk. The wet season also increased the incidence of electrocution, possibly due to increased reptile activity and the dispersal behaviour of mammals. The moisture levels may also have contributed to the greater conductivity of the animals and the ground.

The effect of defensive behaviour is most clearly demonstrated by pangolins and tortoises, both slow-moving and which freeze when threatened. They then curl into a ball (pangolins) or retract into their shells (tortoises). As a result, they remain in contact with the live wires, subjecting them to continuous shocks until they eventually succumb. Of particular interest in this study was that rock monitors were the most frequent victims of fences. This was likely due to a low number of tortoises in the study site, but it is an important finding as rock monitors have not featured as a risk species in previous research.

This paper adds to the steadily growing body of available data on the impact of electric fences on African wildlife. The statistics are staggering: previous research by Pietersen and other authors estimates that over 30,000 reptiles are killed every year. Possibly worse still, they estimate that annual fence mortalities include between 377 and 1,028 ground pangolins in South Africa alone. That makes electric fences one of the greatest threats facing an already beleaguered species.

There are well-documented mitigation measures that could help to reduce the number of wildlife mortalities. These include turning the fences off at certain times or purposely creating entry and exit points in the fence for the passage of smaller animals. “Smart energisers” can also monitor individual strands and turn off the current to low strands if there is any evidence of a trapped animal (if current is repeatedly drawn from that strand, for example). Raising the lowest electrified strand by just 30cm will also allow most reptiles and pangolins to pass unhindered beneath it. Many of these strategies are cheap and easy to implement, and widespread education is necessary to ensure that all stakeholders – from private reserves to livestock farmers – are brought on board to help protect the continent’s smaller and more vulnerable species.

Reference (available through a paywall)

Pietersen, D. W. (2022) “Body Size, Defensive Behaviour, and Season Influence Mortality Probability in Wildlife Interactions with Electrified Fences,” African Journal of Wildlife Research, 52(1)

THIS WEEK

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Tanzania’s cheetahs + salt pans + hierarchy of fear

Life in the bushveld is tough! We have monkeys pillaging our attempted vegetable garden, kudus snapping young planted trees in their dry season desperation to find food, leopards snacking on pet dogs, squirrels chewing the roof lining, spitting cobras and scorpions in the garden…

I would not have it any other way.

My late mom told me that, when I was about eight or ten, I lectured our priest for using leopards as symbols for evil during his Sunday sermon. Apparently I was incensed at his reckless symbolisation of one of nature’s superstars. I have been swimming upstream ever since 🙂

My point is this. Enjoy every second of your life, every glimpse of nature doing her thing, every hint of changing seasons and sniff of rain in the air. This is it. The great safari of life. Peace out

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

What is the scariest sound in the African savannah? The answer is fairly obvious…

The sound of humans – of course.

Researchers studying the hierarchy of fear in mammals in the South African bushveld revealed that wildlife were more fearful of the sound of human voices than that of lions. Researchers placed cameras and audio speakers near waterholes in Greater Kruger, and played a series of sounds – including birdsong, dogs barking, gunshots, lions growling, and humans talking – to animals passing by. Nineteen species fled instantly when hearing human voices, and reacted more quickly and fearfully than when hearing the snarls of lions.

Why? Because, according to the researchers, humans are “super predators”. We humans are lethal, and dangerous – evoking the greatest fear in animals. Hard to argue that one.

Below, you can check out our stories for this week. We’re revealing the secrets of southern Tanzania’s cheetahs, and giving you the low-down on all there is to know about visiting Botswana’s salt pans.

Happy celebrating Africa to you!

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/botswanas-salt-pans/
SALT PANS
Botswana’s salt pans, including Makgadikgadi Pan, are of the largest on earth. The site of zebra migrations, the pans are an epic safari spot

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/the-cheetahs-of-southern-tanzania/
TANZANIA’S CHEETAHS
A new study, in aid of cheetah conservation, reveals the secrets of the cheetahs of the Ruaha-Rungwa ecosystem

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Saving lions

You can help save African lions! Africa’s free-roaming lions are under threat from human-wildlife conflict. These lions are an essential part of the continent’s ecosystems, its tourism industry, and its livelihood.

Thankfully, the Southern African Conservation Trust (SACT) and partners have embarked on a project to conserve lions. They require GPS satellite collars to track the natural movement of lions between protected areas, and to develop lion management plans. These collars provide data to computer simulations, allowing all parties to monitor lion prides on park boundaries. They also provide an early-warning system to local communities about the whereabouts of lions, allowing them to react quickly to potential problems and avoid human-lion conflict.

You can help to save these wild lions by making a contribution to the SACT through our Collar a Lion campaign.

Find out more about how you can help save free-roaming lions and what your sponsorship will include.

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For more videos celebrating Africa, check out our videos here

Botswana’s salt pans

In the heart of Botswana lies a land so strange, so otherworldly, that to visit is like walking across the surface of the moon. The air shimmers, and white clay crackles underfoot, baked hard by an unforgiving sun. From horizon to horizon, emptiness stretches for endless miles, broken only by the occasional stand of palm trees that stand stark against the sky. Botswana’s salt pans are among the largest on earth. For those who make the journey for this unique African safari, the reward is a sense of absolute isolation and remoteness against the backdrop of some of Africa’s most hauntingly beautiful landscapes.

Salt of the earth

Once upon a time, the mighty Okavango River poured south from Angola and emptied into a vast paleolake larger than Switzerland – Lake Makgadikgadi. Then seismic activity shook southern Africa, changing the shape of the earth’s surface and blocking the river’s flow. Lake Makgadikgadi gradually dried up, leaving behind a dry and apparently barren wasteland. Though often referred to as just Makgadikgadi Pan, the region comprises a series of salt pans stretching for hundreds of miles in every direction, interspersed by sandy desert and covering some 16,058 km² (1.6 million hectares) of the Kalahari Basin. The largest are Ntwetwe Pan, Sua/Sowa Pan and Nxai Pan.

Rising from the flats of the pan-like fossilised Leviathans are iconic igneous rock islands dotted with the squat forms of ancient baobabs. The most famous of these are Kubu and Kukome islands in Sua Pan. Kubu Island is so important to Botswanan heritage that it is one of the country’s national monuments. Hidden here (and scattered throughout the pans system) lies evidence of our human history in the form of stone tools, walls and other relics. Some of these even pre-date the era of Homo sapiens, and several scientists have argued that Makgadikgadi should be considered the birthplace of humankind.

Though the landscape is rugged, it is anything but desolate: the rims of the pans are fringed with palm fronds, frayed umbrella thorn trees and scrubby savanna, where desert-adapted wildlife eeks out an existence in the extremes. And every year, when the first storm clouds darken the skies, the parched dustbowl transforms into a lush paradise, flushed with a soft blanket of green. Drawn to this profusion of mineral-rich grasses, zebras arrive in their thousands, following the ancient pathways of Africa’s longest terrestrial migration. They are accompanied by herds of wildebeest, oryx and other antelopes, while resident and nomadic predators alike stalk hot on their heels. Fed by the nearby ephemeral Nata River, the pans fill with water, attracting flocks of water birds, including ducks, geese, pelicans, and flamingos.

An aerial view of the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans

Of twin parks and salt pans

Much of this vital habitat is protected by a twin pair of national parks: the 3,900 km² (390,000 hectares) Makgadikgadi Pans National Park and the 2,590 km² (259,000 hectares) Nxai Pan National Park to its north.

Makgadikgadi Pans National Park covers part of Ntwetwe Pan, with the remainder of the park consisting of grasslands and a scattering of smaller salt pans. The Boteti River runs along its western boundary, acting as the only permanent water source for miles around. Even at the height of the dry season, the Boteti is an oasis for thirsty wildlife, including throngs of elephant, giraffe, zebra and wildebeest.

Nxai Pan National Park is home to seven impressive baobabs made famous in the 19th-century painting by British artist Thomas Baines. This tranquil oasis had provided him shelter as he accompanied pioneer James Chapman on a journey through the Kalahari towards Victoria Falls. The “Baines’ Baobabs” still stand, almost unchanged over 160 years later.

Botswana’s great migrations

Unbeknownst to most people, Botswana is home to two impressive migrations, both of which centre around the Makgadikgadi-Nxai Pan ecosystem. These migrations offer astounding (often less crowded) wildlife sightings and testify to the genetically programmed instinct to migrate. Across the continent, fences have halted most of Africa’s large mammal migrations across the continent. But when veterinary fences in Botswana were moved in the mid-2000s, researchers and conservationists were astounded to see some of the zebra herds return to two ancient migratory patterns.

The first of these is the Chobe-Nxai Pan zebra migration. At a round trip of over 1,000km, scientists have only recently recognised it as the longest terrestrial migration in Africa. The herds spend the harshest of the dry months around the Chobe River flood plains from June until early November before over 20,000 zebras begin the journey southwards. These herds disperse throughout the Nxai Pan National Park and remain there for about three months, from December to February, gathering their strength before beginning the return journey north.

The Okavango-Makgadikgadi migratory route is a shorter and smaller migration that involves around 15,000 zebras that complete a 500km roundtrip each year. These animals spend the dry season around the Okavango Delta floodwaters before moving to the Makgadikgadi Pans area when the rains fall.

Survivors of the salt pans

Even once the zebras have departed from the salt pans, the Makgadikgadi and Nxai Pans regions still thrum with life. Herds of springbok, impala, giraffe oryx, eland and hartebeest are resident all year round. Leopards lurk in the denser forests and along the riverbank, while lions of the black-maned Kalahari stock spend their days in the shade and cover enormous distances at night. Cheetahs and wild dogs (painted wolves) frequent the open grasslands, and hyenas of both the brown and spotted varieties abound. Of the smaller predators, black-backed jackal are ubiquitous, as are the adorable families of bat-eared foxes. Aardwolves and aardvarks emerge at dusk, and some lucky visitors are even treated to the sight of the elusive striped polecat.

One of the region’s major attractions is the groups of habituated meerkats. These charming little characters have learned to treat visitors as part of their everyday environment, sometimes even climbing onto delighted guests to gain a higher vantage point.

Makgadikgadi has long held a reputation as a sterling birding destination – a concept that might seem strange in light of its harsh desert aspect. Yet during those rare years when the rains are good, and even the largest pans fill to the brim, the region turns into a wetland paradise, including the associated birdlife. Flocks of greater and lesser flamingos arrive in droves, decorating the pans in a delicate shade of pink, accompanied by trawling great white and pink-backed pelicans, ducks and geese. The community-managed Nata Bird Sanctuary on the northern edge of Sua Pan protects one of the world’s largest breeding sites of lesser and greater flamingos.

Wattled cranes, red-knobbed coots, pied avocets, African spoonbills, grey-headed gulls, white-winged terns and a variety of storks, ibises, and herons are all additional waterbird highlights. Away from the water, long-legged secretary birds stalk through the grasslands, and ostriches display their motley feathers.

Flamingos fly over the Makgadikgadi Salt Pan

Explore & stay at the salt pans

Want to go on a safari to Botswana’s salt pans? To find lodges in or near Makgadikgadi, search for our ready-made packages and get in touch with our travel team, scroll down to after this story.

Botswana’s salt pans are a rare safari gem in that they are equally spectacular as a wet or dry season destination. While the rainfall of the summer months (between late November to early March) does make the pans themselves largely inaccessible, the experience of desert-turned-sanctuary is hard to beat. Many of the herbivores give birth around this time of year, and migrant animals arrive by hoof or wing in their thousands. It is as though the very land itself breathes a sigh of relief, refreshed and sufficiently revived to survive the long dry months ahead.

By contrast, the dry season from March to October offers the best opportunity to take advantage of the escapism for which the salt pans are so famous. The scenery is at its most evocative at this time of year, and, with the ground once again flat and hard, visitors can set out on foot, horseback, 4×4 or quadbike and head out onto the vast salt flats. Take a few steps in any direction and embrace a sense of isolation and space so profound that it seems to warp time itself. Even better are nights spent under the diamond-studded skies, enjoying some of the best star-gazing on the continent.

Budget campsites are available, and a self-drive adventure through the salt pans region is an excellent option for the well-prepared traveller. However, Makgadikgadi is famous for its more luxurious lodge options, many of which are styled as a romantic homage to a forgotten safari era. A stay at one of these lodges means that you have an expert guide at your disposal, along with many other salt pan-exclusive activities to add to the safari wish list.

Find out more about visiting the Salt Pans , and Botswana, for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.

A view of the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, with Jack’s Camp perched on its shores

The cheetahs of southern Tanzania

With wild cheetah populations declining, the science of their conservation requires an understanding of their distribution across protected and unprotected landscapes. However, within Africa and East Africa in particular, studies on cheetahs are strongly geographically biased, with much of the research conducted in a handful of well-studied areas. In 2021, a multidisciplinary team of conservation scientists set out to thoroughly investigate the Ruaha-Rungwa ecosystem in southern Tanzania for the first time.

The Ruaha-Rungwa ecosystem extends over 50,000km² (500,000 hectares) of savannah habitat. It includes the Ruaha National Park, Rungwa, Kizigo and Muhesi Game Reserves, as well as surrounding “Wildlife Management Areas” and “Game Controlled Areas”. The level of protection and anthropogenic pressure varied across the different landscapes. Though the Ruaha-Rungwa ecosystem has long been believed to be home to Tanzania’s second-largest cheetah population, little empirical or current data existed to support this claim prior to this research. (Tip: to book your safari to see the cheetahs of Tanzania’s Serengeti, click here.)

In their ground-breaking study, the scientists used various methods to assess cheetah numbers, distributions and densities. The first involved using camera traps placed in different habitats across the study area and set up during the dry seasons of 2018 and 2019. The cheetahs photographed were individually identified using their unique spot patterns. This approach allowed conclusions to be drawn about the densities in the different habitats. The Ruaha Carnivore Project had also previously deployed camera traps in some of the surrounding unprotected village lands as part of a community engagement programme. The data from these 43 traps was analysed using the same approach.

The researchers also relied upon expert trackers to systematically record any tracks from cheetahs spotted on vehicle-based transects conducted throughout all protected areas and the unprotected eastern village landscapes. And finally, all photo-tourism guides operating in Ruaha National Park recorded all cheetah sightings in 2018 as part of a collaborative effort with the Ruaha Carnivore Project. The guides recorded their GPS position and took digital images that were later identified to an individual level. (In their conclusion, the researchers suggest that a relationship between scientists and tourism operators is an under-appreciated and cost-effective data source when monitoring large predators in Africa.)

Want to plan your African safari to spot cheetahs in the wild? We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or start planning a unique safari made just for you.

In combining the data from these techniques, the scientists were able to draw several conclusions about the Ruaha-Rungwa’s cheetah population. Their findings confirmed that cheetahs are present in western Ruaha National Park and the contiguous Rungwa South Open Area, whereas previously, these areas were listed as within “possible” cheetah range. In fact, cheetah were found to be widely distributed throughout the entire ecosystem across various habitats administered by an array of land management strategies. These included areas reliant on either phototourism or hunting for revenue and surrounding rural villages.

However, the cheetah appear to occur at low densities, so while they may be found across a large area, this does not necessarily equate to a large population size. Of those observed by guides in Ruaha National Park in 2018, only 11 individuals were identified, belonging to four separate groups. The spoor and camera trap data yielded similar results. The authors theorise this may be due to “biotic” factors rather than anthropogenic pressures. Most of the recorded cheetah were found to be utilising miombo woodland habitats, which adds to a growing body of evidence that woodlands and regions of dense vegetation, rather than just grasslands, are valuable habitats for cheetah. However, in the arid Ruaha-Rungwa landscape, these woodlands are associated with low prey densities, which would impact cheetah densities.

One particular cheetah was captured on two camera traps 64km apart in under two months, providing evidence of wide-ranging movement within this population. As such, the authors conclude by emphasising the urgent need for more surveys to the west of the Ruaha-Rungwa landscapes towards Katavi National Park, especially as this region would be vital for connectivity between populations.

Reference

Strampelli, P. et al. (2021) “Insights into the Status and Distribution of Cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus) in an Understudied Potential Stronghold in Southern Tanzania,” African Journal of Ecology, 59(2), pp. 334–341

THIS WEEK

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Hybrid elephants + Lake Manyara + prime-season Bots special

Last night, a lion roared closer to our home than usual – the husky groan reverberating through the thin night air. Lizz and I wondered if this individual had breached our wildlife estate fence and entered from the neighbouring Greater Kruger. We always keep close tabs on our dogs at night because of neighbourhood leopards, so after a brief moment of anxiety (prey species instinct?), we settled back to enjoy the moment.

We live in a brick house in a well-managed estate, so lions are a welcome presence – entertainment, if you will. Many of Africa’s rural villagers are not so fortunate. They have basic accommodations made of mud, sticks and grass, and their livestock spend the nights crowded into makeshift kraals – scant protection against a pride of lions. For them, lions represent a significant threat to lives and livelihoods. No wonder, then, that human-wildlife conflict is the biggest threat to lion populations. There used to be wild lions across Europe, but they disappeared as the human population exploded. Africa’s human population, too, is expanding. And yet Africa still has wild, free-roaming lion populations – a testament to our rural people.

I cannot stress enough the importance of wild, free-roaming lions for Africa’s ecosystems. And for her tourism industry – a vital source of empowerment, jobs and upskilling for local people. To learn more, please visit our website, search for ‘lions’, and enjoy years of science-based reporting.

Better still, help researchers save wild, free-roaming lions. Every amount helps – it really does. THANK YOU

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Did you know that scientists have just discovered a new species of pangolin? The extraordinary tale of its discovery speaks to the sorry state of affairs around these mammals: the new species was identified when analysing pangolin scales confiscated from the illegal trade. The investigation of these scales revealed genetic markers not seen in any known species – this undiscovered pangolin had fallen into the hands of poachers.

With only eight previously known species of pangolin (four in Africa, and four in Asia), the addition of a ninth species – named Manis mysteria – expands our knowledge of their diversity and evolutionary history. Conservationists can now focus on protecting this newly identified species, working to tackle the supply and demand of the pangolin trade and ensuring the survival of pangolins.

In our first story below, we continue our look into interesting species, with a study focusing on identifying hybrid elephants. Plus, you can read all about Lake Manyara National Park, the perfect base from which to launch your Tanzania safari.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/the-hybrid-elephant-of-kibale/
HYBRID ELEPHANTS
A study from Kibale investigates how to distinguish between forest/savannah elephant hybrids & different elephant species

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/lake-manyara-national-park/
LAKE MANYARA
Lake Manyara, home to millions of migratory flamingos & high elephant densities, is the perfect base from which to start your Tanzanian safari

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Fancy a mobile safari in Botswana? Book now and you’ll save big time. Or plan that incredible family holiday to Maasai Mara, and kids will stay free! Read on, and reach out to our travel team now!

EARLY-BIRD SPECIAL – Botswana classic: fully catered mobile safari – $5,990 pp (save 10%)
Explore all of northern Botswana during prime season on a fully catered mobile safari. Beginning in Kasane and ending in Maun, and led by experienced guides, you’ll track big cats and wild dogs, and meander along the Chobe River. Book this authentic Botswana safari experience today and don’t miss out on this early-bird special, high-season rate of US$5,990pp, valid from 7–17 July 2024.

Kid’s stay free at Angama Mara, Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya
Stay on the edge of the Great Rift Valley and experience heart-stopping wildlife scenes year-round. Two children under the age of 12 stay free between 5 January – 31 May, and 1 October – 22 December 2024.
Angama Mara is a remarkable safari lodge overlooking Kenya’s Maasai Mara – offering a thrilling experience for the whole family.

Mega four-country safari

Our safari client, Gail Robins-Browne, and company, recently returned from a mega-safari (38 days) to Congo-Brazzaville, Rwanda, Uganda and Kenya. Gail enjoyed a boat trip on the Nile River, breakfast on the Mara River, kayaking and spotting forest elephants in Odzala-Kokoua National Park, and walking in Laikipia. Here is what Gail had to say about her experience:

“The itinerary planned was complex as it included Congo-Brazzaville, Uganda and Kenya. Nevertheless, the resulting trip was excellent. Christian (AG safari expert) was very responsive to all our queries. We had many amazing experiences, excellent guides and all camp accommodations – while varied – were very satisfactory!”

Want to experience a mega-safari like Gail’s? Come travel with us and let’s start planning!

WATCH: The Kwakuchinja Wildlife Corridor allows thousands of animals to migrate between two national parks: Lake Manyara and Tarangire. The Chem Chem Association is working to stem the tide of poaching and human-wildlife conflict along this ancient corridor. Here’s how (7:45). Click here to watch

Lake Manyara National Park

Africa is renowned for its spectacular sunrises and sunsets, blazing in a tapestry of red and gold that inspires artists and photographers alike. And, of course, these twilight displays are complemented perfectly by specific settings. One such example can be experienced in Tanzania’s Lake Manyara National Park, where the brilliance of light on the water blends into the rosy blush of over a million flamingos. There is no better way to set the tone for the majesty of a Tanzanian safari.

The world around Lake Manyara

Lake Manyara National Park is named for the eponymous lake along its eastern edge, and two-thirds of the 325 km² (32,500 hectares) park extend over this shallow lake’s surface. The remainder of the park includes an astonishing variety of habitats sandwiched between the lake and the dramatic hills of the Great Rift escarpment to the west. The park is also part of the larger UNESCO Lake Manyara Biosphere Reserve, which incorporates the entire lake basin. To the south, along the escarpment, the national park is buffered by the Marang Forest Reserve, and both the Manyara Ranch and the Kwa Kuchinja wildlife migration corridor link Manyara to Tarangire National Park in the east. These vital connections allow the park to function as part of an enormous migratory ecosystem that includes the Engaruka Basin, Maasai Steppe, Lake Natron and Mount Kilimanjaro.

The lake itself has no outflow but is fed by underground springs and streams originating in the Ngorongoro highlands, eventually tumbling off the escarpment walls in a series of delicate waterfalls and joining to form nine little rivers. Manyara is described as a soda lake, meaning the water is very alkaline, which has historically created perfect breeding conditions for the hundreds of thousands of flamingos wading along the shoreline (more on these below). Water levels rise and fall seasonally, revealing miles of salt flats during the dry season. Even at the height of the rainy season, the lake only reaches depths of around three metres and is only a few centimetres deep across most of its area.

In the park’s northern section, the same underground water that supplies the lake also supports an unusual and verdant groundwater forest. Apart from offering welcome shade in tropical temperatures, the dense stands of towering mahogany and lush fig trees are a breeding site for thousands of pink-backed pelicans. A bit further south, the forest gives way to open Acacia (Vachellia/Senegalia) woodland savannah, where the park’s elusive but famed tree-climbing lions are sometimes found. Thick clumps of sedges, luminous yellow fever trees and wild date palms line the lake shores, river systems and swamps.

Along the park’s western boundary, the escarpment rises sharply over a thousand metres, the steep slopes dotted with the lumpy forms of ancient baobabs and the unmistakable spikey forms of pencil cactus (Euphorbia tirucalli), for which the park is named. “Emanyara” is the local name for this succulent plant, traditionally used to create fences around rural dwellings. The park also has hot springs at Maji Moto (literally “hot water”), where water bubbles out over 60˚C.

Despite the park’s relatively small size, it encompasses multiple habitats supporting its diverse fauna and flora. It is also perfectly positioned between Arusha and the more famous Ngorongoro Conservation Area and Serengeti National Park, making it the ideal launch pad for Tanzania’s northern safari circuit (click here to start planning your own African safari in the Serengeti).

Find out about Tanzania’s many options for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.

Lions and elephants and baboons, oh my!

The national park was established to safeguard the region’s substantial elephant population and tree-climbing lions. Lake Manyara and Tarangire National Parks are home to some of Tanzania’s highest elephant densities, and at certain times of the year, there are grey pachyderms seemingly around every corner. The tree-climbing lions are also a major drawcard, though they have probably since been eclipsed by the lions of the Serengeti and Queen Elizabeth National Park in Uganda, which are also often observed leopard-like in the boughs of trees. Exactly why some lion populations display this arboreal tendency remains unconfirmed, though it may be motivated by a desire to escape tsetse flies and other biting pests.

Of course, to focus solely on elephants and lions would undermine the other equally thrilling animal offerings of the park. For instance, several habituated troops of olive baboons provide endless hours of entertainment, and vast herds of buffalo, wildebeest, zebra and Thomson’s and Grant’s gazelles move across the grasslands. Squadrons of banded mongoose trot across the park in search of insect prey, and servals stalk the swamps while nimble klipspringer pairs leap along the cliffs above them. Bat-eared foxes, civets and honey badgers are commonly encountered on night drives in the park. Even otters lurk along the rivers that feed the lake, and jacuzzi-loving hippos languish in a pool below the park’s hot springs.

Vast herds of zebra, wildebeest and buffalo occupy Lake Manyara’s grasslands

Flamingos and their feathered friends

Yet for all that Lake Manyara National Park offers mammal viewing against a magnificent backdrop, the park’s feathered occupants have previously been the park’s true stars. In particular, Lake Manyara was famous as a gathering site for hundreds of thousands of migratory greater and lesser flamingos. One study estimated nearly two million lesser flamingos and around 40,000 greater flamingos had assembled in the lake, though numbers vary considerably each year, and global flamingo populations are declining. The warm alkaline waters of soda lakes across East Africa favour the growth of the algae upon which the flamingos feed. The shallow, caustic waters are the perfect place for them to construct mud nests away from predators.

However, Lake Manyara has experienced flooding in recent years, impacting safari experiences. While the park remains open, some areas are submerged, and access to certain wildlife viewing locations has been affected. The flooding has also led to ecosystem disruptions and affected wildlife sightings, particularly flamingos, which have largely moved on.

Like neighbouring Tarangire National Park, Lake Manyara was one of Tanzania’s top birding hotspots. Naturally, the lake and surrounding rivers extended exceptional waterbird sightings during the wet seasons, including flocks of clumsy pelicans, elegant cormorants, gaudy grey crowned cranes, spoonbills, herons of every shape and size and an eclectic collection of storks ranging from motley marabous to the stately saddle-billed stork. Away from the water, the chatter of noisy silvery-cheeked hornbills filled the forest, and majestic Verreaux’s eagles haunt the cliffs. Vultures like the critically endangered white-backed and Rüppel’s ride the thermals, while pairs of Ayre’s hawk eagles hunt helmeted guineafowl.

It is best to check in with regards to the status of flooding before planning a trip here.

Lake Manyara hosts thousands of pink-backed pelicans. which breed in dense stands of towering mahogany and lush fig trees

Explore & stay in Lake Manyara

Lake Manyara is just two hours’ drive from Arusha on good roads. While accommodation inside the park is luxurious (and limited), there are many options along its fringes to suit most budgets.

Like much of East Africa, Manyara experiences two rainy seasons: the “short” rains in November and the “long” rains between March and May. As mentioned previously, however, flooding in the long-rains season has notably diminished its traditional safari highlights, especially flamingos, waterbirds, and easy lakeshore access. Visitors now may experience limited sightings, flooded roads, and replaced game-driving routes. To maximise your safari experience, aim for June–October, or plan for half-day visits/leeways if travelling during the wettest months. During these wet months, though, the park is at its most scenic: the lake is full, the vegetation verdant and the cliffs of the escarpment covered in a gleaming web of waterfalls.

Apart from the usual vehicle-based activities, there is also a canopy walk on narrow bridges through the treetops of the groundwater forest, which is especially good for birders searching for forest specials. And, assuming the lake is high enough, canoe safaris offer a different perspective and the best way to admire the escarpment from the water.

Hundreds of giraffes dot the plains surrounding the lake (composite image)

Final thoughts on Lake Manyara

The Lake Manyara safari experience is lowkey and less frenetic than the wildlife extravaganza of the Serengeti or Ngorongoro. Yet, this is not a reason to dismiss or overlook this hidden gem of a national park, which offers an intimate and beautiful destination to bookend your once-in-a-lifetime safari.

* Note that seasonal changes (and periods of heavy rainfall and drought) alter lake levels, grasslands and the movement of wildlife.

The hybrid elephants of Kibale – new research on how to distinguish types of African elephant

There are two species of African elephant – the savannah elephant (Loxodonta africana) and the forest elephant (Loxodonta cyclotis). As the names imply, the two generally occupy distinct habitats and are theoretically easily distinguishable. However, forest and savannah elephants are known to produce fertile hybrids in regions where their habitats overlap, particularly in Kibale National Park in Uganda. Visual differentiation between the different species and hybrids is an essential aspect of research into their behavioural and ecological variations. Now, a newly published study from Kibale has laid the groundwork for this process.

Astonishingly, despite decades of genetic evidence, forest elephants were only recognised as a separate species (rather than a subspecies of the savannah elephant) by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature at the start of 2021. The reasons for the delay in their recognition were complex, but the existence of known fertile hybrids played a significant role.

In order to investigate the phenotype (the physical appearance) of the hybrids, the researchers first had to establish the most important (and easily assessed) differences between forest and savannah elephants. This they did by comparing nearly 300 reference images of elephants across multiple forest and savannah areas in Africa. As the direct study of shy elephant populations can be challenging, they aimed to identify morphological criteria that could be easily assessed on camera trap images. They also selected features that did not require precise measurements. Ultimately, six morphological criteria were identified: the position of the lobe of the ear in relation to the mandible, the distance between tusks and trunk, the tusk orientation (both in profile and when viewed face-on), the indentations of the temporal region/shape of the forehead and the curvature of the spine. The researchers were able to distinguish between forest and savannah elephants with 90% certainty using these criteria.

Both forest and savannah elephants are found in Kibale National Park, but little was known about the proportions of each species or the number of hybrids. Consequently, the next step of this study was to scrutinise the physical appearance of all elephants in the forested Sebitoli area of northern Kibale. Analysis of 1,408 videos from camera traps revealed that 36.8% of the elephants matched the savannah phenotype, 12.1% the forest phenotype and 51.1% an intermediate phenotype between the two. The latter probably includes the hybrids.

The difficulty arises because elephant hybrids are fertile, meaning that multiple levels of hybridisation are possible (a pure savannah elephant could cross with a pure forest elephant, or two hybrids could breed and so on). In addition, any population always has a degree of individual variation. Furthermore, forest elephants are known as a “paedomorphic form” of the savannah elephant. This means adult forest elephants more strongly resemble young savannah elephants, making it challenging to create a one-size-fits-all set of criteria.

Thus, the authors recommend further study combining genetic analysis and phenotypic characteristics. However, while genetic methods are precise, they are expensive and time-consuming, so the goal should be creating an accurate “species assignment key” as a simple tool to distinguish savannah, forest and hybrid elephants. The authors emphasise the importance of this process in terms of conservation efforts. The forest elephant is classified as Critically Endangered, and the savannah elephant is Endangered. Any effective conservation actions require “precise information on the biology, behaviour and reproduction of each species”, which makes identifying them essential.

Reference

Bonnald, J. et al. (2023) “Phenotypical Characterisation of African Savannah and Forest Elephants, with Special Emphasis on Hybrids: The Case of Kibale National Park, Uganda,” Oryx, 57(2), pp. 188–195

Further reading

THIS WEEK

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You can save lions + are Kruger rhinos safe?

Now and then I will ask you to break through the scroll of modern life to make a REAL DIFFERENCE on a specific issue. Today is such a day.

Dispersing male lions are the genetic lifeline for Africa’s rapidly diminishing free-roaming lion populations. They leave the pride at about two to three years of age – often forced out by the pride male/s – to team up with other outcast males to find territory with food and females. When you hear about lions that have ‘escaped’ from protected areas it’s often dispersing young males doing what nature intended. Many don’t get to sire future generations – this is nature’s plan to ensure that only the fittest survive to strengthen the gene pool.

There are plenty of natural reasons why many dispersing male lions don’t make the cut – but, increasingly, humankind is a significant factor. Human-wildlife conflict is probably the biggest threat they face – humans killing lions that threaten their livestock. And who can blame Africa’s rural villagers? They are following the example set by others across this precious planet. Another is the removal of habitat and prey species by humans as we ‘develop’ the remaining wild areas and create islands of our protected areas. A further threat is trophy hunters killing free-roaming male lions as they disperse. We have got to the point where every dispersing male lion needs to be protected. Killing them off for fun and ego is not conservation, no matter how powerful and aggressive the trophy hunting lobby is.

This is where you come in: Whatever the reasons that prevent male lions from playing their intended role, scientists need more information about their dispersal habits. Team Africa Geographic has dug deep into our pockets to sponsor a lion collar; you can too. Perhaps team up with friends or colleagues, or donate even just a small amount – it all helps. Please join us to empower researchers to better protect Africa’s iconic free-roaming lions.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Did you know that two African gems have just been added to UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites? The forest massif of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in Congo-Brazzaville, which protects an enormous section of Central Africa’s rainforests and its critically endangered forest elephants, has been added as a new site (you can find safaris to Odzala-Kokoua here). The Adrefana dry forests of Madagascar have been added as an extension to the existing World Heritage area in Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park. This recognition can drive the international prominence of these sites, encouraging responsible tourism and sustainable development, while safeguarding local environments and traditions.

Here’s hoping their newly found status will foster global cooperation in their protection, ensuring they endure for future generations – and ensuring you can make your dreams of visiting these spectacular African destinations a reality. (We can help make this dream happen for you too – just get in touch with our safari experts).

Speaking of travel dreams – we’ve put together the ultimate to-do list for visiting one of South Africa’s most popular destinations – Cape Town. See below. You can also check out our guide to Botswana’s zebra migrations, and read about the efficacy of Greater Kruger’s rhino conservation interventions.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/the-science-behind-keeping-the-rhinos-of-greater-kruger-safe/
KRUGER’S RHINOS
How effective are Greater Kruger’s interventions in keeping rhinos safe? A new report analyses Kruger’s rhino conservation

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/cape-town-the-ultimate-to-do-list/
CAPE TOWN
The city of Cape Town is one of South Africa’s most popular tourist destinations – for good reason. Here’s our ultimate Cape Town to-do list

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/botswanas-zebra-migrations/
ZEBRA MIGRATIONS
Botswana hosts two zebra migrations, one of which is the longest mammal migration in Africa. The zebras travel in search of water and grazing

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

It’s prime time to witness both the Great Wildebeest Migration in Tanzania and the zebra migration in Botswana. To take advantage of the two specials on offer below, contact our safari experts – and they’ll plan your ultimate African safari

LAST-MINUTE SPECIAL – US$4,030 per person sharing (5 days) – for October 2023 only – 23% OFF
The Great Wildebeest Migration in Serengeti National Park, Tanzania is an event you WANT to experience. For this special offer, we’ve chosen specific dates and camps to maximise sightings based on where the herds are at the time. Don’t miss your chance to witness this epic wildlife event! Get 23% off when booking for October 2023.

Honeymoon special: 50% off for partners at Migration Expeditions, Nxai Pan
Spend your honeymoon at Migration Expeditions, located in Nxai Pan National Park, Botswana – a prime location for witnessing the extensive zebra migration. This seasonal camp is set up specifically to witness this vital event. This honeymoon special is valid until 21 December 2023 for a minimum 6-night stay.

Safari report-back:
My bucket-list holiday

Sugnet Toerien and her group of friends recently returned from their AG safari to Kenya, where they set out to experience the Maasai Mara migration. They stayed at Tamarind Tree Hotel in Nairobi and Sentinel Mara Camp in Maasai Mara National Reserve. Thanks for the awesome review, Sugnet!

“Booking a safari holiday to the Maasai Mara through AG was an absolute game-changer for my travel experience. From start to finish, their service exceeded all expectations, and I can’t praise them enough for helping me create memories that will last a lifetime.

What truly sets AG apart is their dedication to creating personalised itineraries. They took the time to understand my preferences and interests, ensuring that every aspect of the safari catered to my desires. Whether you’re a wildlife enthusiast, a photography enthusiast, or a cultural explorer, they can design an itinerary that perfectly suits your needs. A massive thank you to safari expert Christian for making our bucket-list holiday come true!”

WATCH: There aren’t very many scavengers that can do what vultures do – especially when it comes to removing dangerous diseases from the environment. But many of Africa’s vultures are either critically endangered, or endangered. Here’s how the Endangered Wildlife Trust is using their wealth of knowledge to drive conservation of these birds (4:00). Click here to watch

Cape Town: the ultimate to-do list

Nestled between a rugged mountain range and the Atlantic Ocean, the city of Cape Town is one of South Africa’s most popular tourist destinations – for good reason. From exquisite natural beauty and magnificent beaches to edgy urban delights and colourful histories, the city is a traveller’s paradise. But with so much on offer, what to choose and how to make the most of a visit? Here is our ultimate Cape Town to-do list to perfectly tailor your chosen activities.

Find out about Cape Town for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.

Cape Town’s mountains & adventures

Cape Town is one of South Africa’s foremost hiking and thrill-seeking destinations, and can perfectly round out any African safari. The city is defined by its unique position at a point where mountains meet the sea. The entire city is enfolded in the “armchair” of the Cape Fold Mountain Range, and everyone from casual ramblers to hardened adrenaline junkies will be itching to explore the great outdoors. Grab a pair of sturdy shoes and investigate the many adventures on offer.

Climb (or ride the cable car) to the top of the iconic Table Mountain and explore the paths that crisscross the top.
After a short hike, enjoy a picnic at the top of Lion’s Head beneath the full moon, looking down at the twinkling lights of the city. This is a very popular outing in the city, so be prepared for a busy trail on the way up. Also note the trail is quite technical and can be challenging at peak times.

Silently paraglide over Camps Bay and take in the majesty of Cape Town from above.
Zipline over Elgin Valley and enjoy a bird’s-eye view of the rugged scenery below.
Gallop across the white sands of Noordhoek beach on horseback in a cloud of sea spray.

Sand & sea

Along with the mountains, Cape Town’s beaches are one of her most popular attractions, offering everything from dazzling white sands and turquoise waters to ample space and calm coves. And while the waters of the Atlantic Ocean may be chilly, they are brimming with marine life. Don your swimsuit or squeeze into a wetsuit and enjoy a day at the seaside:

Walk the sands or laze in the shade on the world-famous beaches of Clifton 1-4, Camps Bay, Llandudno, Long Beach and Bloubergstrand.
Grab a surfboard and test out your skill on the waves of Muizenberg.
Enter the murky underwater world of the kelp forests and free dive or snorkel in search of fascinating sea life.

A sevengill shark at the depths of a kelp forest. See more pics from Tracey Jennings on Instagram via @scubabunnie

Take to the calm azure waters in a kayak (day or night!) and admire the views of the city from a different perspective.
Meet the charismatic little African penguins of Boulders Beach (look, don’t touch them – they are wild animals, and they will bite!).
Embrace new trends and water-bike your way around Simon’s Town and the False Bay Coast.
Join the Cape fur seals in the water and watch them transform from awkward land-dwellers to sleek and agile predators.

Seals frolicking amidst the corals in Atlantic waters

Cultural Cape Town: history & art

Cape Town has always been a gateway to South Africa, setting the stage for a rich history and a melting pot of colourful cultures. There are undoubtedly some areas of the city that are steeped in the tragic and turbulent history of South Africa, but it is of vital importance that these stories are never forgotten. Set out to learn more about the past and indulge your inner aesthete in a cultural journey through the Cape:

Look in on Woodstock’s bustling hub of creativity, offering everything from street art to furniture showrooms.
Take the solemn journey to Robben Island and tour the prison where Nelson Mandela and many other apartheid dissidents spent decades incarcerated.

The experience awaiting visitors to Robben Island

Head out to the District Six Museum, which documents the story of apartheid in one of Cape Town’s most politically and historically significant suburbs.
Take your pick of world-class art exhibitions and galleries from the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary African Art and the Ellerman House collection to the Norval Foundation and Iziko South African National Gallery.
Explore the Cape Town Holocaust & Genocide Centre, the first of its kind in Africa to commemorate the victims and survivors of Hitler’s Nazi regime.

Visitors to the Cape Town Holocaust and Genocide Centre view a collection of photographs from family albums of South African Jews

Urban vibes and gourmet meals

Cape Town is as vibrant and diverse as the natural world that surrounds it. Every neighbourhood comes with its own particular ambience, ranging from hip and happening to arty and urbane. There is an endless array of cosy cafes to experience and a collection of some of the world’s best seafood restaurants. And that’s not to mention the psychedelic nightlife! Head out onto the streets and enjoy the best experiences the city has to offer:

Wander Kloof Street, exploring the exciting shops, cafes, restaurants, and bars along the way.
Feel hip and happening on buzzing Bree Street, the “coolest” street in town, and wash down a scrumptious meal with a designer cocktail or artisanal beer.
Explore the rows and alleys of the famous Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, Cape Town’s unofficial shopping and dining capital. Drop in to visit the Two Oceans Aquarium while you’re there.

Discover any of the many rooftop bars and markets scattered throughout the city, each offering its unique ambience.
Support the city’s talented actors, singers and dancers at one of the many shows on offer at the time.
Blink dazedly at the kaleidoscope that is Bo-Kaap – a suburb decorated in almost every colour imaginable.

Cultivated Cape Town: gardens & vineyards

The Cape region is famous for its unique and astonishingly diverse indigenous plant life, but it is also home to many of the most beautiful and stately gardens in the country. Some of South Africa’s most famous winelands are found just inland from Cape Town, where wine enthusiasts can enjoy the best of South Africa’s bouquets against the verdant background of mountains and valleys. Grab a hat (or a glass) and revel in the Cape’s cultivated greenery:

Check out the squirrels in The Company’s Garden, a green oasis in the heart of the city.
Continue the Bacchanalian delights at Boschendal Farm, in one of the most picturesque valleys in the Cape Winelands.
Spend the day exploring the cultivated and indigenous exhibits of Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden before taking to treetops on the Tree Canopy Walkway

Walk the paths of Stellenberg Gardens, a beautiful old estate surrounded by stately and ancient oak trees.
Sample the best wine Babylonstoren Farm has to offer, where oenophiles can wax lyrical about earthy aromas and smooth finishes, and amateurs can pretend they know the difference.

Take a tour

Cape Town is a sedate city, but with so much to explore, it is well worth embarking on a tour designed to take in as many of the region’s attractions as possible. So, grab a bike, hire a car, or jump aboard a bus and let the exploration begin:

A view of the Atlantic Seaboard featuring the Cape Town City Bowl and impressive Table Mountain

Rent a bicycle or a scooter and join the lively throngs of cyclists, joggers, couples, and dog walkers wandering the length of Sea Point Promenade.
Change down a gear and navigate the scenic curves and precipitous cliffs of Chapman’s Peak Drive (check ahead of time that Chapman’s Peak is open – as it is sometimes closed due to bad weather).

Hiccup your way through the Constantia Wine Route and move between modern and stylish wineries to the more mature vineyards and ancient farmhouses.
Explore the wild and rugged ecosystem of the Cape Peninsula on a journey to visit the lighthouses of Cape Point.

Cape Town African safari — View the lighthouses at Cape Point

Take a day trip to visit each of the charming small towns and beaches of False Bay.
Hop on and off the famous red double-decker City Sightseeing buses, which offer some of the simplest ways to take in as much of Cape Town as possible.

The science behind keeping the rhinos of Greater Kruger safe

Protecting Africa’s rhinos is monumental and requires courage, persistence, creativity and extraordinary strength of character. No single strategy is sufficient against the scourge of poaching that has annihilated rhinos in their thousands, and conservationists have had to employ a multitude of different interventions in an attempt to stem the tide. However, every intervention comes at a cost: financial, personnel-related, ecological or otherwise. Understanding what interventions have worked and to what extent is essential in forging a path forward. This requires robust statistical analysis and managerial insight based on years of operational experience. A new report from the Greater Kruger region in South Africa offers just that.

South Africa is home to the majority of Africa’s rhinos, and the largest remaining wild population exists in the Kruger National Park and surrounding reserves. High poaching rates and the need for holistic and evidence-based thinking led to the creation of Project FIRE (Framework of Interventions for Effective Rhino Protection Evaluation), bringing together a cross-disciplinary team of reserve managers, ecologists, scientists, and other stakeholders. The collaborative efforts of data analysts, representatives of two state reserves (including the Kruger National Park) and nine private reserves have culminated in a 17-page report evaluating rhino conservation efforts from 2017 to 2021.

They identified and evaluated several intervention areas, including access control to the protected area, camera technologies, K9 units, integrity (polygraph) testing, dehorning, detection zones, air support, ranger training and equipment, rhino monitoring, fences and fence alarms. Evaluating these indices (which could encompass several variables) required identifying exactly how each was expected to help, how its success could be measured and the extent of its limitations. In this manner, the data could be quantified and fed into statistical models for analysis. Naturally, any statistical analysis needs to be interpreted within the context of the situation, particularly in one as complicated as the anti-poaching reality in the Greater Kruger. Thus, the “manager narrative” and insight played an integral role in compiling the final report.

[Editorial note: The authors elected not to include an executive summary of the report to encourage the reader to read the full report and appreciate the results’ complexity, context and nuance. Though we have provided a summary below, we would reiterate the suggestion to read the report to fully understand the intricacies of the issues at play.]

A minimum of ZAR 1.1 billion (USD 61 million) was spent protecting rhinos from 2017–2021, of which ZAR 660 million was spent in the Kruger National Park (USD 37 million). The most costly interventions in the Kruger National Park were access control, air support, security staff and specialised detection technology. Similarly, security was one of the most significant expenses for the other reserves, but fences (maintenance and upgrades) and ranger training and equipment also featured as substantial costs.

One of the report’s primary findings was that dehorning was the only intervention that showed strong statistical evidence for reducing poaching. As such, there is a strong statistical and logical case in favour of dehorning as an effective strategy. However, the authors emphasise that this does not imply that other measures were ineffective, but simply that evidence in their favour was inconclusive with the available data. Furthermore, many security measures, such as K9 teams and aerial support, successfully reacted to poaching incidents and captured poachers, which does not automatically translate to reduced poaching rates.

A lack of variation within the data (as most reserves have implemented most interventions and thus cannot be compared to those without) reduced the statistical power of the analysis. Many interventions may be effective in principle without demonstrating any statistical association with poaching. Furthermore, corruption or internal involvement may result in the circumvention of otherwise effective measures. A reserve may have a high number of poacher arrests, but this will do little to deter future excursions if the criminal justice system (from law enforcement to the courts) does not work successfully to punish the crime, as evidenced by multiple repeat offenders.

The report’s conclusion offers several insights into anti-poaching interventions’ current status and the authors’ analysis results. In particular, it highlights that “most interventions do not directly address, and are at the mercy of, significant external factors such as socioeconomic inequality, entrenched criminal syndicates, corruption and horn demand”. In addition, many of the analysed interventions are reactive (detecting and arresting poachers), and the effectiveness of dehorning may relate in part to the fact that it is a proactive intervention. The report also acknowledges that implementation and competence vary widely across the study region. Poor implementation, rather than the intervention itself, may contribute to its lack of success. They explain that “[e]ffective operation management is essential…It requires strong leadership, strategic planning and the ability to make informed decisions in a dynamic, challenging and ever-changing environment”.

The report concludes with lessons for the future of the conservation of rhinos. The authors emphasise the power of shared learning and the importance of collaboration between scientists, academics and reserve managers. Perhaps the most encouraging words from the report are found in the foreword of the report, offering a message of hope from the custodians of our remaining rhinos: “We will succeed. The cause of protecting these magnificent creatures is too great, and the people dedicated to the cause are too dogged for any other outcome.”

Reference

Kuiper, T., Haussmann, S., Whitfield, S., Altwegg, R., Ferreira, S., Shaw, J., Polakow, D., Hofmeyr, M., Pierce, E., Nowak, I., Rowles, C., Zowitsky, H., Oliver, I., Boyd, W., Bird, J., Worth, E., van Tonder, M., Bourn, M., Greef, Z., Hartman, Z. (2023). Evaluating the cost and effectiveness of rhino conservation interventions in the Greater Kruger. A Greater Kruger Environmental Protection Foundation Report.

Further reading

– Missing the point: A new study suggests that dehorning can negatively impact the social behaviour of black rhinos. Read more here.

– Private rhino: More than half of Africa’s rhino are in private hands. With rising protection costs, what will it take to build a resilient private industry?

– Read the latest update on Kruger’s rhino population numbers.

– The state of Africa’s rhino: Read our analysis of the IUCN report containing the most recent rhino numbers, trends, poaching incidents, conservation measures and trade updates.

THIS WEEK

This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.

November safari sorted + down with vet fences?

With so many clients on safari right now, out there somewhere in this extraordinary continent, my mind turned to WHY we do this. We are not the ‘usual’ safari company – in that we invest significant resources into compiling stories about Africa.

Over sixteen million of you have read these stories in the last decade – stories that reflect the complexity and reality of life at ground level here in Africa. That’s 16m caring individuals from across the globe – our tribe – that have taken on board the science and considered opinions, and helped us spread the word.

Based on these stories and our reputation for designing authentic experience-based safaris, some of you choose us as your travel company when you visit Africa. That revenue powers us to go further, do more. THANK YOU.

We have a manifesto – our ikigai – that fuels us and provides direction whenever we are faced with a fork in the road. There have been many such moments since we began this wonderful journey 32 years ago. You can read our manifesto here.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Did you know that music can have similar effects on animals that it has on humans?

A beloved Kruger National Park camp recently hosted a popular annual classical music concert. A small social media storm broke out at the closing of the camp to host such an event. A wonderful setting for enjoying an orchestra, or harmful to the animals?

Well, as it turns out, classical music has a calming effect on a range of animals, including gorillas and dogs. It reduces aggression and increases sociability in chimpanzees. Cows soothed by classical music produce more milk. And birds’ brains react to music similarly to the way humans’ do. Crocodiles exposed to Bach’s Brandenburg Concertos in an MRI scanner were stimulated to produce similar brain patterns to those of birds and mammals (how did they get a crocodile into an MRI machine, you may ask?). Also pertinent to this question is that symphonic music peaks from about 120dB, but in an outdoor setting, there is likely a major drop off by the time it reaches animal ears. Researchers also question whether animals are stimulated by music because they find it appealing, or because the unfamiliar sound makes them want to flee. Food for thought the next time you are contemplating Baroque in the bush.

In more brain fodder for this week, Gail Thomson asks whether Namibia and Botswana should bring down their veterinary fences. We also explore the unique experiences you can expect when going on safari in November – so you can start planning now. See our stories below.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/travel/november-unique-african-safari-moments
NOVEMBER SAFARI
Our safari experts view November as the month of variety and for seeking out localised migrations and other unique safari experiences

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/should-namibia-and-botswana-bring-down-their-veterinary-fences/
VET FENCES
Should Namibia & Botswana bring down their veterinary fences? Gail Thomson makes the case for livelihoods, migratory routes & economy

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Whether on a guided photographic safari in the Maasai Mara, or exploring the plains of the Serengeti, we have offerings where you can safari in classic style in these tented camps. Take your pick or combine the two: our experts are ready to design your unique African safari.

Maasai Mara specialist photographic safari – 9 days/8 nights – from US$4,235pps
Join award-winning photographer Arnfinn Johansen on this exclusive safari for four guests in Maasai Mara, Kenya. Highlights include guided game drives by an experienced Maasai guide in a modified photographic vehicle, a permit to off-road responsibly and accommodation at Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp.

Special offer – Book 5 nights and only pay 4 at Olmara Camp
Don’t miss your chance to enjoy this special offer and stay in a tented paradise on the eastern plains of Serengeti National Park, Tanzania. Olmara Camp is located at the crossroads of endless grassy plains and woodlands, in an area surrounded by meandering rivers and dramatic ancient granite kopjes. Offer valid until 23 December 2023

“A powerful experience”

This is how our travel client Tracy McLachlan described her back-to-back art safaris at Kambaku Safari Lodge in Greater Kruger and Bush House in Madikwe Game Reserve. Thank you for the stellar review, Tracy!

“The attention to detail was incredible. Christian (AG safari expert) was thorough and responsive when arranging my two art safaris, as well as other accommodation. Everything was seamless and stress-free. All staff at Kambaku greeted me and other guests by name throughout my stay. They remembered my preferences and interests and seemed to anticipate my every need – making sure I was always comfortable.

Our guide, Gideon, and tracker, Eric, were such delights to be with. They were attentive, kind, and generous with their knowledge and time. They both had such lovely senses of humour. They understood what our safari group was trying to achieve and worked hard to ensure each guest had a good view for sketching wildlife. They were genuinely interested in what we were working on and shared their insights regarding the specific animals we were sketching. It was a very rich experience of viewing animals, and learning about them and the ecosystem. And we had incredible sketching opportunities.”

Want to go on an Art Safari? Our 2023 art safaris have already taken place – so email our safari experts and they’ll keep you in the loop about our 2024 dates.

WATCH: Chitake Springs in Mana Pools National Park is a growing talking point amongst photographers for producing raw wildlife action. Here’s what happened when Villiers Steyn led an Africa Geographic photographic safari to this untamed Zimbabwean wilderness, known for its large lion prides and massive herds of buffalo (9:23). Click here to watch

Op Ed: Should Namibia and Botswana bring down their veterinary fences?

If you have ever been on a road trip through Botswana or Namibia, you would likely have encountered a veterinary fence. A checkpoint comes into view at a seemingly random location along your route. When you stop, you are asked if you have any meat and told to walk through murky water. If you were carrying some meat for your next braai or barbeque, this is the last you will see of it. Each vet fence comprises two parallel fence lines that extend for thousands of kilometres. Veterinary fences were not erected to inconvenience tourists, but why is this necessary? The answer is complicated and not without controversy in both Namibia and Botswana. Gail Thomson asks if Namibia and Botswana should bring down their veterinary fences.

Botswana’s fences have caused the deaths of millions of animals, while Namibians living north of its fence see it as part of the legacy of apartheid. Despite the social and ecological ruptures they have caused, the fences remain. As you will soon discover, taking down these veterinary fences is about much more than dismantling thousands of kilometres of wire and wooden poles.

Why veterinary fences? A historical perspective

The Namibian fence is officially known as Veterinary Cordon Fence and unofficially as “the Red Line”, which is how it is depicted on maps. This 1,250km double fence line runs from the eastern border with Botswana, along the southern boundary of Etosha National Park and right through to the desert in the west.

The Red Line was initially developed as a concept rather than a physical fence as part of the German colonial government’s response to rinderpest in 1898. Starting in East Africa, rinderpest was a deadly disease introduced by cattle brought onto the African continent that wiped out over 90% of the cattle, buffalo and other antelope populations at the time. It also had a devastating effect on human populations due to the resulting starvation.

A series of police posts on the main roads were set up to prevent the movement of livestock from northern Namibia to southern Namibia along a line running east to west. Ultimately, these efforts were futile as rinderpest swept southwards through transmission between wild and domestic animals.

Despite its failure to control disease transmission, the Red Line was a useful political tool because it separated the southern part of Namibia that the Germans focused on colonising from the northern lands where they had less control. The area south of the fence became known as the Police Zone, i.e. the zone where colonising farmers could be ‘kept safe’ by the police.

When the South African government took charge of Namibia after World War I, they recognised the utility of the Red Line for political purposes and disease prevention. However, it was many years before a fence materialised from the concept. Instead, the Red Line was a 30–100km wide zone that was assumed to be free of livestock and most antelope due to a lack of natural surface water. The zone included the vast Etosha Pan and (at the time) its waterless surrounds. Strategically located police posts were used to prevent people from driving their livestock through the zone to access markets in the south.

An outbreak of Foot and Mouth Disease (FMD) in the 1960s finally created the impetus to turn the zone into a double fence line. Buffalo are primary carriers of FMD, which can be transmitted to cattle when they come into contact with each other. FMD can infect other antelope species (e.g. kudu) but these rarely transmit it to other species. Infected buffalo show few or no clinical signs of the disease, while cattle suffer from lesions in the mouth and feet that reduce their productivity (it is usually non-fatal for adult cattle).

veterinary fences — Buffalo are primary carriers of Foot and Mouth Disease

The fence line and associated police posts further restricted human movement from north to south, which fitted well with the apartheid government’s intentions to keep the ‘black homelands’ in the north separate from ‘white farmlands’.

Botswana’s history as a British Protectorate rather than a colony means that its fences do not have the same colonial undertones. However, the whole purpose of their veterinary fences is to satisfy the European Union (EU) by controlling globally recognised transboundary animal diseases that could threaten European cattle farms. Most of these fences were erected after Botswana’s independence in 1966 and are far more extensive than Namibia’s Red Line.

The first fence to be erected (completed in 1958) was the Kuke fence running from the Namibian border, along the northern boundary of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR), then turning 90 degrees north towards the Okavango Delta. The Southern Buffalo Fence rings the Okavango Delta and meets the northern part of the Kuke fence. It was erected in 1982 to keep buffalo in the Delta and away from cattle farms, mainly to prevent FMD transmission.

The outbreak of Contagious Bovine Pleuropneumonia (CBPP), another recognised transboundary animal disease (infecting cattle but not African buffalo), prompted the construction of several more veterinary fences in the northern half of the country in 1995–1996. Due to the contagious nature of CBPP and its international trade significance, all cattle were slaughtered in Ngamiland (north-west Botswana) between 1995 and 1998. Two fences constructed at the time (the Setata and Nxai Pan fences) have since been removed. Altogether, Botswana’s many separate fences cover over 10,000 km.

Negative impacts of veterinary fences

While fences in Namibia caused some ecological disruption (hundreds of buffalo were shot south of the fence to prevent them from dying against the fence), the impact on Botswana’s wildlife was devastating. Millions of wildebeest and zebra died along the Kuke vet fence because it was inadvertently erected across their historical migration routes between the Kalahari and the Okavango Delta.

Besides the internal veterinary fences, the national boundary fences running between Namibia and Botswana cause severe disruption of wildlife movement in this central part of the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA). The initial construction of these fences coincided with significant declines in buffalo, tsessebe, roan and sable antelope in Namibia. Recent evidence from satellite collars on elephants reveals that family herd movements are restricted by fences, even though elephants frequently break the national boundary and vet fences.

The impacts of vet fences in Namibia and Botswana have been both socio-economic and ecological. In both countries, farmers living on the ‘wrong side’ of the fence (i.e. where FMD and other diseases are considered endemic) have access to few markets for their meat. Although many of these farmers keep cattle for cultural purposes and rarely sell their cows, limited market access makes a shift towards more commercial farming practices even less likely.

The continued strict separation between buffalo and cattle creates an economic and conservation problem. As a game species, disease-free buffalo are highly valued and sold in neighbouring South Africa for high prices. Still, game farms in Namibia and Botswana are prevented from stocking buffalo for fear of disease transmission. This limits the potential for the wildlife economy in both countries to outcompete the livestock farming industry and prevents buffalo from recovering its historical range.

Finally, maintaining thousands of kilometres of double fences is a significant cost for both countries, although probably more so for Botswana. Elephants are constantly breaking the vet fences, allowing cattle to enter wildlife areas (e.g. the Okavango Delta) and mingle with buffalo. If these cattle are herded back out again, they could cause disease outbreaks affecting all livestock farmers in the country.

The symbolism of the Namibian Red Line as a means of oppression and separation cannot be ignored, although a detailed discussion of this is beyond the scope of this article.

Veterinary fences are bad, but…

Wildlife-proof fences can reduce human-wildlife conflict, whether erected for disease control or some other purpose. Fence breaks between Etosha National Park, the Okavango Delta and their surrounding farmlands often result in livestock or crop losses and subsequent killing of the wild animals involved.

One doesn’t need a crystal ball to predict what would happen if these fences were removed entirely. Cattle herders searching for better grazing in these protected areas would push further into them, where lions and other large carnivores would easily pick them off. Conversely, lions and other carnivores would expand their range into the adjacent farmlands and cause even more conflict than currently.

Finding other ways of reducing disease transmission that do not include fences could open up international markets for meat and start to commercialise cattle farming. While this could have positive implications regarding poverty alleviation, it may also intensify human-wildlife conflict by increasing the economic value of lost livestock. Both countries already struggle to provide sufficient payments for livestock losses due to human-wildlife conflict, even in places where livestock are not farmed commercially.

Finally, veterinary protocols in both countries that are associated with vet fences – e.g. livestock inspections and ear tags for tracing cattle ownership – maintain relatively high standards of disease control. If vet fences come down, such protocols could be relaxed or disregarded, leading to more disease outbreaks among livestock.

Many farmers in Namibia and Botswana keep cattle for cultural purposes

Looking to the future

If the negative impacts of vet fences generally outweigh the positives, why do these two independent African nations still maintain them? The short answer: to maintain access to the lucrative EU market for meat products.

The highest value market for livestock from both countries is the EU. If infected meat is imported into the EU, it is possible (though far from as likely as live animal imports) that FMD and other cattle diseases will infect European cattle. Consequently, if meat-exporting countries such as Namibia and Botswana cannot prove to the EU that their meat is not contaminated, they will be locked out of this lucrative market.

Therefore, solutions to the vet fence problem focus on reducing the likelihood of disease transmission to the point where it can be proven that meat from infected zones poses no threat to international markets. The first step in this direction is using an animal management system called Commodity-Based Trading (CBT) that combines livestock management, quarantine zones, and specific ways of slaughtering at abattoirs to reduce the chances of disease transmission to near zero.

This system is recognised by the international governing body World Organisation for Animal Health (WOAH, formerly OIE) which maintains standards for animal imports and exports to reduce the chances of disease transmission. However, the EU imposes stricter standards than those recommended by WOAH and thus is unlikely to accept meat produced through CBT methods.

A sudden increase in the supply of relatively cheap meat from Africa is seen as a threat to farmers within the EU, so this discussion goes beyond disease transmission and into the realm of politics. Until that changes, farmers may have to settle for using CBT to access markets within Africa and others outside of the EU, which are at least stronger than domestic markets in those zones.

The need for more intensive livestock management to implement CBT has a silver lining. If cattle must be herded and kept away from buffalo and other wildlife as much as possible (as per CBT guidelines), they will be better protected from predators. Better-managed cattle are also more productive, as young animals can be treated timeously when the herder notices they are ill. The Herding 4 Health programme in Botswana uses this approach to improve livestock health, open access to regional African markets, and reduce cattle losses to lions and other predators.

Commodity-Based Trading could reduce the chances of disease transmission amongst livestock to near zero

Bringing the fences down

Vet fences have been a constant presence in Botswana and Namibia for decades. The reasons for erecting and maintaining these fences go far beyond disease transmission. This means that any efforts to take these fences down must include, but not be limited to, technical fixes related to animal health. Political interventions, trade deals, and changing farmer and veterinary perceptions are essential. One must also consider the unintended negative consequences of taking fences down and have strategies in place to mitigate these wherever possible.

If Botswana and Namibia can navigate these uncharted waters successfully, bringing selected fences down could herald a new era for improving livelihoods, restoring wildlife migratory routes and further integrating the livestock and wildlife economy. Are these potential long-term benefits worth the extra effort and economic uncertainties? If so, we should seriously consider bringing at least some of the fences down.

Gail Thomson would like to thank Dr Mark Jago (Namibia) and Dr Mark Bing (Botswana) for their input into this article based on their veterinary expertise.

THIS WEEK

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Rhino crisis averted + KAZA elephants + South Luangwa safari

Just back from six days in Botswana’s Tuli Block with our 2023 Photographer of the Year winners. To say that we were blown away by the wildlife sightings and photographic opportunities is putting it mildly. Six different leopards in the first three days, lions everywhere and a relaxed cheetah mom with three cubs made for riveting days in this arid paradise. And a morning in a sunken photo hide that was so busy with comings and goings and epic photographic moments, we returned to the lodge elated and exhausted. Expect a gallery of outstanding photos in the months to come. Our featured image above is a brief hors d’oeuvre…

And what a wonderful group to spend time with! The fascinating discussions and hilarious banter set the tone and added layers of enjoyment to what was already an epic safari. Thanks to my teamAG travel experts for excellent planning and management of our safari and to Mashatu Botswana for hosting us at their superb lodges – and for the slick, effortless service and delicious food that catered for our diverse dietary requirements. Good times!

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

What do African penguins and the James Webb Space Telescope have in common?

African penguins may have feathers and wings, but they cannot fly. The James Webb Telescope has neither, yet it is flying through space at about 1,200km/h. Their inability to fly puts penguins at a distinct disadvantage to their flying seabird relatives, as they are unable to find food on the wing. Thank goodness then, that penguins have a strong sense of smell – which helps them detect prey at sea at up to 2km away. A study conducted off the coast of South Africa found that penguins find their prey by smelling the compound dimethyl sulphide, emitted by phytoplankton in prey patches.

It turns out that the James Webb Telescope, too, can detect the same compound – produced only by life – by analysing the chemical signature of molecules in light. Now, for the first time, the telescope has detected dimethyl sulphide out there – on a planet 120 light years from Earth. This is the most promising possibility of alien life found to date. The telescope has also detected carbon dioxide and methane on the planet – possible signs of a water ocean underneath a hydrogen-rich atmosphere. Could the planet be harbouring phytoplankton, or feathered creatures, like planet Earth? Only time will tell.

You may also be fascinated by our tale of a flower sexually deceiving a beetle into becoming its pollinator in our second story below. Or take some time out to dream of your travels through Africa, as we focus on Nyerere National Park, a rugged wilderness area in Tanzania. See our first story.

Happy celebrating Africa to you!

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/nyerere-national-park-selous-rebranded/
NYERERE NP
Nyerere NP, formerly part of Tanzania’s Selous Game Reserve, is one of Africa’s most rugged wilderness areas

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/the-boudoir-of-beetles/
BEETLE BOUDOIR
How this longhorn beetle is deceived into copulating with a rare orchid, Disa forficaria, in order to act as its pollinator

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Gorilla trekking in dense forests or a river-side Greater Kruger adventure? Take your pick and get in touch with us to plan your ultimate African safari:

Congo forest – including lowland gorillas – 9 days/8 nights – from $13,835pps
Experience Odzala-Kokoua National Park in Congo-Brazzaville, one of Africa’s oldest parks and the ideal destination for your bucket-list gorilla-trekking safari. Luxurious camps, pristine rainforests, peaceful river activities and habituated western lowland gorillas await. This is a safari like no other. Join us on this ultimate 9-day safari and trek for gorillas, forest elephants, bongos, dwarf crocodiles, huge flocks of grey parrots and green pigeons – and much more.

Special Offer! Book 4 nights at the new Tanda Tula Safari Camp & receive 1 night FREE!
We introduce you to the new Tanda Tula Safari Camp – with an irresistible special offer! The camp has been redesigned, taking full advantage of its location along the Nhlaralumi River in South Africa’s Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger. It’s a place of endless space, privacy, and a true paradise! Book 4 or more nights at Tanda Tula’s new home and get 1 night free! Valid 01 October-15 December 2023 & 09 January-31 March 2024

Epic Tuli photo safari

Our 2023 Photographer of the Year winners are pictured here after a superb session in the Photo Mashatu underground hide. They enjoyed an epic Tuli Block (Botswana) safari, courtesy of our travel experts. Ask us to plan your next safari.

WATCH: Several of our safari experts view October as the best month for a safari in Africa. Click here to see why (2:00). With predators easy to spot at waterholes in southern Africa, fewer crowds at Mara River wildebeest crossings and warm weather at the beach, there are plenty of reasons to start planning an October safari now. Let us help you plan your next safari!

Nyerere National Park – Selous rebranded

In today’s onslaught of media content, words like “unchanged” and “pristine” are bandied about with reckless and inaccurate abandon. Few of Africa’s remaining protected areas are either unchanged or pristine, and to describe them as such is to whitewash the stories of the continent’s resilience. In a time of tremendous change for the Selous Game Reserve, the declaration of Nyerere National Park will be an important chapter in the history of one of Africa’s greatest wilderness regions.

A new chapter?

In 2019, the now-deceased former president of Tanzania, John Magufuli, announced that the vast Selous Game Reserve would be split in two. The northern, southern, and western sides became the Nyerere National Park, while the eastern section remained the Selous Game Reserve. At 30,893 km2 (over three million hectares – more than twice the size of the Serengeti National Park), Nyerere National Park is the largest national park in East Africa. It protects a magnificent mosaic of Vachellia (Acacia) savannahs, grasslands, miombo woodlands, marshes and riverine forests, features which once justified the Selous Game Reserve’s inclusion as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Nyerere protects *Vachellia* (*Acacia*) savannahs, grasslands, miombo woodlands, marshes and riverine forests

To the east, the park continues as the much-reduced Selous Game Reserve, which nevertheless encompasses some 20,155km2 (around two million hectares – the size of the Kruger National Park). Nyerere is also contiguous with Mikumi National Park in the northwestern corner, which, together with nearby Udzungwa National Park, helps to connect the greater Selous ecosystem to the Ruaha ecosystem in the west.

Nyerere National Park now extends over three sides of the Rufiji River valley, including such tributaries as the Beho Beho and Ruaha Rivers. The Rufiji River – the largest in Tanzania – dominates the landscape, plunging through Stiegler’s Gorge and eventually fanning out into an intricate network of channels, oxbow lakes and swamps. At the height of the rainy season, it transforms into an angry torrent of brown water that changes the face of the landscape each year. In the dry season, it supplies a never-ending parade of thirsty creatures of every shape and size, drawn to the water’s edge and offered welcome shade by towering Borassus palms. Its waterways define the Nyerere/Selous experience, with game drives taking place along the banks and boat safaris across the interconnected lakes – offering a unique African safari option.

What’s in a name?

Regarding photo tourism, Selous Game Reserve has typically been overshadowed by the northern Tanzanian safari circuit. In contrast to the latter, a Selous safari has always been considered a more rough and ready experience, better suited to experienced safari-goers with a taste for a rugged and authentic wilderness. The same principle applies to Nyerere National Park, though there are plans to increase the park’s tourism footprint.

Even before the creation of Nyerere, photo tourism organisations and lodges have always predominated in the region north of the Rufiji River system. The rest of the Selous was divided into hunting blocks, but this arrangement will no longer apply to those areas now included within the national park. Under Tanzanian law, national parks are afforded the highest levels of legal control over human activity and habitation and are managed by the Tanzanian National Parks Authority, TANAPA. According to government statements, the intention is to improve the road networks and general accessibility of the park and increase the number of camps and lodges.

Nyerere protects significant populations of elephant

The ‘Selous’ safari

There is no question that, as a safari destination, Nyerere National Park is brimming with untapped potential, but this is not to say that its pleasures are entirely unknown. Wildlife connoisseurs and Selous enthusiasts have long revelled in the opportunity to visit this forgotten corner of Africa, losing themselves to the sheer vastness of the wilderness. The scenic Rufiji River is always a highlight, but the hills, plains, dry riverbeds, marshes, forests and even the park’s hot spring ensure that every day is filled with variety and excitement.

Find out about Tanzania for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.

Unsurprisingly, such a vast area of diverse habitats would support an impressive array of fauna and flora. The park is home to the Big 5 (though sightings of its black rhinos are rare), protecting significant populations of elephant, buffalo and lion, as well as many leopards – the Big 5. Spotted hyena, giraffe, zebra, eland, Coke’s hartebeest, waterbuck, and wildebeest are all present in healthy numbers in the park, and hippo and crocodiles are abundant in the permanent waterways. However, the region is most renowned for its substantial African wild dog (painted wolf) population, which may be one of the largest on the continent. Other rarities include large herds of sable antelope, puku and the delicate and shy suni.

Over 440 bird species have been recorded in the park, including a profusion of bee-eaters, a kaleidoscope of kingfishers, and a chatter of hornbills. Specials like the Udzungwa forest partridge, rufous-winged sunbird, Pel’s fishing owl and African skimmer are bound to enthral expert birders, and the plethora of great white pelicans, storks and herons occupying the lakes and rivers add delightful splashes of colour to an already picturesque scene.

Navigating Nyerere

In a place as vast and untamed as Nyerere, any visit should make the most of the opportunity to explore in every possible way. Indeed, game drives are an essential aspect of the experience. Yet one day spent in a vehicle could be followed by a morning’s boat safari and breakfast on a sandbar – surrounded by hippos and without another human being in sight. The terrain unequivocally lends itself to exploration on foot, in the company of an expert guide to expose and translate the natural marvels of the park. And for those looking for absolute immersion in nature, some lodges offer fly camping, with tents set up in the middle of the wilderness, with just a thin layer of canvas between their occupants and the creatures of the Nyerere night.

African safari in Nyerere — Nyerere’s dry riverbeds deliver epic sightings

Other attractions include the hot springs and the grave of Frederick Courteney Selous, the British explorer, officer, hunter and conservationist for whom the Selous Game Reserve was named. He was killed by a German sniper during World War I near the Beho Beho River.

Explore & stay in Nyerere

No matter the changes wrought over the next few years, it is doubtful that Nyerere will see the same number of tourists that flock to the north of the country every year. Instead, the park will likely retain the old Selous feeling of authentic, low-density, high-quality safaris centred around appreciating the surrounding wilderness. And while the scenery may be rugged, there is no shortage of luxury and ultra-luxury accommodation options – meaning that adventurous days end in the comfort of traditional East African hospitality. From rustic and simple to lamplit luxury, there are choices to suit most budgets.

The dry season from June until October offers the best wildlife viewing, as the vegetation is less dense, and animals are drawn to the banks of the Rufiji River. Much of the park becomes inaccessible at the height of the rainy season from around March to May. Tanzania’s second dry season, from mid-December until March, is also a good time for visiting birders looking to catch the incoming migrant species (and take advantage of low season rates).

An important adden‘dam’

Along its journey through the Selous to the Indian Ocean, the Rufiji River passes through Stiegler’s Gorge, once considered to be one of the main attractions in Selous, where the water plunges through a narrow ravine with walls 100 metres high. Here, former president Magufuli has commissioned the construction of Stiegler’s Gorge Hydropower Dam.

Despite the considerable outrage from environmentalists, construction began in 2020, and the dam is now apparently a fait accompli. Beset with challenges, the date of completion has been delayed to 2024. While the dam is set to cover just 2% of the Selous area, it will flood vital riverine forests and inevitably impact downstream habitats. Consequently, those wishing to experience the “old Selous” would be advised to book sooner rather than later.

Final thoughts on Nyerere

An ancient baobab stands sentinel on the plains below the Beho Beho Hills, squat and silent. Just over a hundred years ago, it would have witnessed World War I in Africa as bullets flew and nations clashed. Today, its presence serves as a poignant reminder that, while all things eventually pass, no wilderness is free from the scars of human folly. Nyerere National Park and Selous Game Reserve will soon be irrevocably changed, but the very essence of their wildness will endure. Elephants will still feed, dwarfed by towering palms, hippos will find their feet in new waterways, and fleet-footed wild dogs will bound across open plains. And adventurous souls will still find refuge in the raw and ancient beauty of ultimately untameable Nyerere. And what better way to end your Nyerere safari than a few days with your toes in the sand of the Spice Islands.

Nyerere African safari — River-side walking safaris take travellers to the heart of the action

The boudoir of beetles – how this orchid sexually deceives its pollinator

Deep in the heart of the fynbos of South Africa lives a rare orchid, Disa forficaria, which has a fascinating relationship with its pollinator, the longhorn beetle, Chorothyse hessei. From the title of this article, one might think it should come with a PG rating but rest assured – this is simply nature at work in her strange and wonderful ways. The story of how the relationship between Disa forficaria and the longhorn beetle was discovered is fascinating in itself.

Disa forficaria is an orchid species identified from only nine plants from 11 records in the past 200 years and was considered extinct until one plant was rediscovered in 2016. Secondly, this orchid flowers only once every two years. Thirdly, only one flower opens at a time, and usually only if the sun is shining. Lastly, its pollinators’ activity is tightly linked to the midday hours. Nevertheless, after many visits to the lone specimen of Disa forficaria, biologist Callan Cohen struck lucky. One sunny day he found that one of the orchid’s intricate flowers was in full bloom, and he was taking photographs of this rare beauty when he saw what he thought was a wasp landing on the lip of the flower. He watched in amazement when the wasp-like insect started to copulate with the flower.

This looked like a case of sexual deception. The flower was attracting pollinators to its blooms by mimicking a female insect. But to prove this, further investigation was needed, and so Cohen assembled a team of scientists, each a specialist in either pollination, entomology, orchids or chemistry. They started to piece the remarkable puzzle together.

The pollinator

The scientists established that the suspect was not a wasp but a wasp-mimicking endemic longhorn beetle, C. hessei, and so, after noting that the only insects that visited the orchid were individuals of the longhorn beetle, and only males, the scientists set out to discover what was attracting this beetle to this flower.

The flower

The flowers of the Disa forficaria don’t have any nectar or food rewards but instead sweeten the deal by providing a “boudoir” for the beetle-gentlemen. One could say that the flowers are “dressed up” to look and smell like female longhorn beetles. Orchid species generally have flowers with a modified median petal – the labellum – and, together with the two horizontal petals, the flower forms a landing platform for a visiting insect. The labellum of this particular orchid species is hairy and kidney-shaped and at its tip is a hairy cleft. At the other end of the lip are some narrow, hairy petals which curve backwards, have minute hairs, and resemble antennae.

The interaction between beetle and flower

So what is the motive for the beetle? The male longhorn beetle wants a female longhorn beetle. But the wool is pulled over the male longhorn beetle’s eyes. First, he gets the scent of a female beetle. He follows it, and on arriving at a flower of D. forficaria, he lands on the flower’s labellum and sees some fine, curved petal appendages. He begins to stroke these with his antennae and also even occasionally bites the petals (which is common mating behaviour described for other longhorn beetles). He then starts copulatory behaviour. The authors have even found beetle sperm in the petal’s cleft. So how does pollination occur? The beetle is similar in length to the flower’s lip, and this means that it is perfectly positioned, whilst in the act of releasing its sperm, for the pollen packages attached to its thorax (gathered from previous foraging trips) to be deposited onto the orchid’s stigma. The authors observed that flowers that had been pollinated by the beetle later developed into fruit, thus showing the success of the pollination “event”.

The longhorn beetle attempting to copulate with the orchid. Photograph courtesy Callan Cohen and www.birdingafrica.com

The scent of a woman-beetle

But how did the beetle find his flower lover? The authors observed that the beetles used typical odour-tracking foraging movements, which was a clue to what attracted them: the scent. They then obtained an extract from the flower and, using complicated and intensive experimentation, identified the volatile compound in the floral extract which could be involved in the attraction. They called this compound ‘disalactone’ and proceeded to synthesise more of it. After establishing that longhorn beetle antennae reacted to puffs of this scent in the laboratory, they took this “beetle perfume” into the field to test it.

To determine whether the compound attracted the longhorn beetle, they set out an array of open glass vials, some containing the disalactone and others just acetone (to act as a control). They found that the jars of the disalactone attracted C. hessei longhorn beetles, all of which were male. The control jars did not attract any beetles.

In the meantime, as all this analysis and experimentation was happening in the laboratories, the original orchid plant in the field had sadly disappeared. But the scientists proceeded to do field experiments near the original orchid plant. This time they got creative and made model flowers consisting of dark beads on a dry reed, with ‘‘antennae’’ of plastic-coated wire and a small tuft of hair approximating the hairy lip of the flower at one end of the model. Some of the model flowers were treated with a droplet of disalactone in acetone, and the others with pure acetone (controls). Lo and behold, male C. hessei beetles were attracted to the disalactonen flowers and “frenetically” copulated with them too.

From this, the authors deduced that these orchids were luring the males to their flowers with a particular scent, most likely a scent closely simulating female longhorn beetle pheromones. The shape of the fake flowers was important, too, in eliciting copulatory behaviour. This behaviour promotes the transfer of pollen from the beetle to the flower’s stigma, thus facilitating effective pollination. The case was solved: this orchid was sexually deceiving male longhorn beetles! Sexual deception of bees and wasps by plants has often been observed, but deceiving beetles is a relatively rare and unique phenomenon in the plant kingdom.

And more good news

The field experiment also yielded another exciting discovery. Some of the male beetles that visited their fake flowers were seen to be carrying pollen sacs. So the scientists took samples of the pollen and, using DNA analysis, the pollen was identified as belonging to the Disa forficaria species, meaning that, happily, there are still other D. forficaria plants in existence out there – somewhere. Indeed, we might even be able to find them if we can work out a way to use male longhorn beetles to survey for them. This type of surveying would be a world first!

The authors conclude that the orchid’s sexual deception might be the reason for the ongoing persistence of this orchid species, even at such low population sizes. The fidelity of the male beetles to their female beetle-mimicking flowers might enhance the transfer of pollen, thus achieving high pollination rates and fruit set. Therefore, ensuring the survival of one of the rarest orchids in the world. The wiles of the wild are fascinating indeed.

Reference

Cohen, C. et al. (2021) “Sexual deception of a beetle pollinator through floral mimicry“. Current Biology 31, pp. 1962–1969

Further Reading

Scientists are warning of an insect apocalypse. Read more on the second silent spring here.

THIS WEEK

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Rhino crisis averted + KAZA elephants + South Luangwa safari

WOW! In one masterstroke African Parks has solved one particular rhino crisis, silenced the solution-bereft peanut gallery and proven yet again what a fine organisation they are. Yes, there will be challenges, but my goodness what a move! If you are not sure what I mean, scroll down. On that note, our exciting upcoming joint tourism project with African Parks to increase responsible international tourism to their parks – Ukuri – has one more hurdle to clear before we go live. The launch delays – related to regulatory matters – have been unfathomably frustrating. Both teams are chomping at the bit to get the show on the road. Stand by for more information 😉

As you read this I will be on safari in Botswana’s Tuli Block with our 2023 Photographer of the Year winners. Tuli is one of the most under-rated safari destinations in Southern Africa. I was last there about ten years ago and look forward to meeting our talented winners and reacquainting with the Land of the Giants.

Meanwhile, in my hood the knobthorns are bedecked in golden canopies whose sweet perfume floats in and out of my day unannounced. Temperatures are rising and the bushveld is cork dry. The dry season will peak in a couple of months before the hoped-for short rains of October-November usher in the green season. Life is good!

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

We celebrate every conservation victory that boosts the rhino population. In our first story below we mention that there are fewer than 13,000 southern white rhinos left. But did you know that Africa is also home to the world’s most endangered antelope – the hirola – whose population numbers pale in comparison to rhinos?

There are fewer than 400 hirolas left in the wild (and none in captivity) in the few areas they remain in Kenya, and possibly Somalia. Wiped out by rinderpest, civil war, and habitat loss, they have been dubbed a “refugee species” as they are restricted to less than 5% of their historical range. Those that remain owe their survival to a few local Kenyan communities who set up the Ishaqbini Hirola Conservancy, and to the Hirola Conservation Program. But predictions are there will be fewer than 20 hirolas left in the next 50 years. Food for thought.

Also check out our second story below, which delves into the state of elephants in the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation area – a population that represents more than half of the remaining African savannah elephants.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/african-parks-purchases-john-hume-rhino-farm-pledges-to-rewild-2000-captive-bred-rhinos/
RHINO SALE
African Parks has purchased John Hume’s captive-rhino breeding operation, to rescue & rewild the rhino to protected areas

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/kazas-elephant-survey-the-results-are-in/
KAZA’S ELEPHANTS
KAZA has released the 2022 KAZA Elephant Survey results, revealing that elephant populations within the region are stable

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Fancy an unforgettable Botswana and Victoria Falls safari?

South African safari: Cape Town & Timbavati

The McGrory family travelled with us to South Africa, visiting The Commodore Hotel in Cape Town, Umlani Bush Camp in Greater Kruger and more. They share their five-star safari experience:

“Christian (AG safari expert) organised a spectacular trip for us to South Africa on very short notice at a busy time of year. He did an amazing job of figuring out the best options for us. When our flight from the US was cancelled, he rearranged our days and managed to fit in almost all of the activities we had originally planned while minimising our stress.

Christian found safari lodges for us that were just the perfect vibe for our group, with an extremely knowledgeable guide who found us some unbelievable wildlife moments. In one safari lodge, we spent an afternoon by ourselves in a treehouse where we were extremely lucky to observe more than 30 elephants coming to drink at the waterhole. We managed to see leopards and wild dogs and even hyenas fighting over a dead buffalo after dark – and a lion kill as well. An absolutely unforgettable experience. We will be back!”

Do you want to visit South Africa? Check out our South African safaris here

WATCH: Not for the faint hearted: A few months ago, video footage emerging from Mossel Bay, South Africa confirmed that orcas are capable of pursuing, capturing and incapacitating great white sharks – behaviour never before witnessed in such detail. This footage confirmed that the practice of orcas killing great white sharks was spreading – a trend that has far-ranging consequences for the sharks and the marine ecosystem. (3:08). Click here to watch

African Parks purchases John Hume rhino farm – pledges to rewild 2,000 captive-bred rhinos

African Parks has just purchased the world’s largest rhino breeding operation – John Hume’s Platinum Rhino – to rescue and rewild the 2,000 southern white rhinos that, up until now, faced an uncertain future.

African Parks announced it would rewild the rhino over the next ten years to well-managed, secure protected areas across Africa. By establishing new populations and supplementing strategic populations, this move will significantly boost the future prospects of the species.

Rhino breeder Hume, who has been on the verge of bankruptcy for the past few years, made headlines earlier this year when he once again placed Platinum Rhino up for auction. The auction received no bids, putting these rhinos at risk of poaching and fragmentation. The 7,800-hectare captive-breeding rhino project, operating in the North West province of South Africa, has reportedly been tallying up a cost of $9,800 a day – an amount that Hume could no longer afford to pay.

After being approached by concerned members of the conservation fraternity about the potential crisis that awaited these rhinos, African Parks conducted due diligence and secured funding for the transaction. With the support of the South African government, African Parks agreed to purchase the farm and its rhinos.

The 2,000 rhinos represent up to 15% of the world’s remaining wild southern white rhino population (at less than 13,000 individuals), which is currently under extreme pressure due to poaching.

African Parks has extensive experience managing protected areas and conducting large-scale wildlife translocations. Over the years, the conservation NGO has brought rhinos back to Rwanda, Malawi and the Democratic Republic of Congo.

African Parks will phase out Platinum Rhino’s breeding programme, rewild the rhinos and bring the project to an end once all rewilding has occurred.

“African Parks had no intention of being the owner of a captive rhino breeding operation with 2,000 rhinos. However, we fully recognise the moral imperative of finding a solution for these animals so that they can once again play their integral role in fully functioning ecosystems,” said Peter Fearnhead, CEO of African Parks.

The South African government pledged support for the cause. Barbara Creecy, South African Minister of Forestry, Fisheries and Environment, said the government is “ready to support African Parks and other partners with technical and scientific advice in developing a conservation solution that includes translocating the animals over a period of time to suitable parks and community conservancies in South Africa and on the African continent.”

Further reading

Read about the state of Africa’s rhino.

KAZA’s elephant survey – the results are in

The Kavango-Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area has released the 2022 KAZA Elephant Survey results, revealing with cautious optimism that elephant populations within the region are stable.

The KAZA Transfrontier Conservation Area (TFCA) covers land in Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, and Zimbabwe. KAZA’s elephant population represents more than half of the remaining African savannah elephants on the continent.

The survey reveals an estimated elephant population of 227,900 in the KAZA TFCA – an increase of 10,000 from the population estimate made by the 2016 IUCN African Elephant Status Report. However, distinctly high elephant carcass ratios in certain areas may indicate high elephant mortality rates, highlighting the need for more investigation.

The survey revealed that Botswana hosts the highest number of elephants, with 131,909 elephants estimated to be present in the country during the survey. Across the KAZA TFCA, 58% of the elephants were found to be in Botswana, 29% in Zimbabwe, 9% in Namibia, and the remaining 4% were found in Zambia and Angola combined. Zambia is the only country showing a decline in elephant populations, with an estimated population of 3,840.

Elephant carcasses made up an estimated 10.47% of the total population – a cautionary signal of a possible negative population trend requiring further assessment. “Several factors are likely contributing to the somewhat elevated mortality we’re observing,” said Darren Potgieter, KAZA Elephant Survey coordinator. “Factors such as ageing populations, improved sampling methodologies, environmental conditions, and poaching could all be at play here.” Habitat loss and associated human-elephant conflict and disease were also cited as possible reasons for high mortality rates.

Fresh and recent carcasses (elephants that died in the 12 months prior to the survey) represented 0.51% (1,165 elephants) of the total estimate. The highest ratio of fresh and recent carcasses was observed in Botswana (962 carcasses – 0.72%). A concentration of fresh and recent carcasses were identified in the border region between Botswana and Namibia along the Kwando-Linyanti-Chobe River system. The Botswana Department of Wildlife and National Parks was informed of the high number of fresh carcasses seen during the survey, and an investigation into the cause of death is ongoing. Based on investigations, poaching has been ruled out, and the tusks on the carcasses were intact.

Elephant KAZA — Map of the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area, showing national parks and other protected areas. © KAZA TFCA Secretariat (2023)

The survey also produced estimates for other species populations, such as buffalo, giraffe, wildebeest, and zebra. The number of livestock herds reflected a ratio of wildlife to domestic stock that was almost equal, highlighting growing pressures on water and rangelands.

The survey’s insight into human and livestock population distribution in relation to wildlife showed growing fragmentation and isolation of wildlife habitat. This fragmentation due to encroachment of human and livestock activity affects the connectivity and mobility of wildlife populations, making the ecosystem “vulnerable to disturbances and less able to adapt to changing climatic conditions”, said the report. There was also a trend of elephants being absent from regions heavily populated by humans and livestock. The survey revealed notably high pressure in the central Zambezi region of Namibia. This region, covering the Kwando and Zambezi-Chobe Wildlife Dispersal Areas, is critical for wildlife movement and migration.

The distribution of elephants showed a higher density of elephants near permanent water sources such as the Okavango and Chobe-Linyanti-Kwando River systems, as well as in parts of northwestern Matabeleland (Zimbabwe), where artificial water supplies are widely available in Hwange National Park.

Given the large survey area, several aircraft needed to be deployed simultaneously, requiring careful coordination. The survey was flown from August to October 2022 during the dry season when elephants could be seen more easily. The survey involved reconnaissance flights, ground support from logistics teams and various observers. 310,865km2 were sampled over 700 hours of flights. Using the CITES Monitoring the Illegal Killing of Elephants (MIKE) programme Aerial Survey Standards, the survey ensured rigorous quality assurance metrics.

In a joint communique, ministers from the KAZA TFCA pledged to translate the survey’s findings into practical policy measures and supportive legislation to ensure the long-term persistence of wildlife in the region.

Further reading

Read about the KAZA elephant management plan here.

Wildlife corridors, such as those created by KAZA, offer paths of connection for wildlife. Read more about how these reduce the loss of life and livelihoods.

THIS WEEK

This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.

Hyenas in Maputo + dwarf mongoose + Namibian safari

Those of you that have been reading our stories for so many years will know that we focus on science and telling Africa’s stories from ground level. One way we do that is by decoding science – where we unpack peer-reviewed scientific findings and reword them so that you and I can understand and celebrate nature’s complexities and adaptive journey.

And there has been no-one better at doing this than Jamie Paterson, our scientific editor. Jamie, who is also studying to be a vet, has an eye for detail and a deep passion that goes way beyond anyone else I know. Her studies have reached that critical point where she will take a back seat from her teamAG duties. Her AG duties will be performed by others, but you will hear from Jamie now and then, just not as regularly. Thanks for sharing our journey so far Jamie, here’s to our ongoing friendship and your exciting future as a wildlife vet.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

“There is no time like Spring, when life’s alive in everything…” – Christina Rosetti

Today is Spring Day in Southern Africa, and after being frost-locked through winter, I could not be more relieved that hidden life is breaking through once again!

You will no doubt enjoy our two features this week, as they were penned by our dynamic Scientific Editor Jamie. And with Spring’s new beginning, we wish Jamie strength and good fortune on her new journey as she bids AG a subtle farewell.

Our first story below is the ultimate to-do list for Victoria Falls, which needs little by way of introduction. The perfect destination for adrenaline junkies, budget-conscious travellers, romancing couples and even for families, Vic Falls offers a smorgasbord of natural, cultural, and gastronomic delights. Check out our first story below to start planning your own adventure!

Our second story recognises the wonders of that graceful icon of the African safari: the kudu. As one of the more reliable sentinels in the bushveld and a picture of natural perfection in its own right, spotting a kudu is always a treat. Happy reading!

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/things-to-do-in-victoria-falls/
VIC FALLS
Victoria Falls is one of Africa’s most popular tourist destinations – for good reason. Here’s our ultimate Victoria Falls to-do list

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/kudu/
THE KUDU
Known for impressive spiral horns & doe-eyed, graceful countenance, the kudu is a fascinating antelope and an icon of the African safari

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Our safari selections this week include a magic safari combo of Big 5 bushveld and beach life in Malawi, as well as a SUPER November special at an idyllic lodge in Zambia. Have a peak below and be inspired to book your next safari with us.

Malawi Big 5 bush & beach safari – 7 days / 6 nights – from US$3,170pps
Discover the Big 5, cheetahs and wild dogs of Majete Wildlife Reserve before unwinding on Lake Malawi’s tranquil shores. Seamlessly transition between these stunning locations, and experience the conservation success that is Majete, as well as the white sand beaches and water activities of one of Africa’s most popular great lakes.

Last-minute special! SAVE 30% at Mfuwe Lodge, South Luangwa National Park, Zambia
LAST MINUTE SPECIAL FOR NOVEMBER: Majestic elephants stroll through renowned Mfuwe Lodge on a regular basis. Mfuwe presents an impeccable setting to embrace the essence of life in Luangwa.

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

I have always loved this time of year, even living in the Highveld, where the cold has yet to lift. With its cheerful birdsong, luminous greens and bright blossoms, Spring for me comes with a sigh of relief.

But today is bittersweet because, as Simon and Taryn have intimated, the time has come for me to focus on my studies. And to do that, I need to step back from my permanent duties as part of teamAG.

Given the number of articles I have written (nearly 300, I counted!), it seems strange that words should be failing me now, but I am struggling to do justice to the extraordinary company that is Africa Geographic. And, of course, its team of dedicated professionals. I shall be forever grateful for having had the opportunity to work alongside such incredible individuals, driven as they are by passion and integrity.

Likewise, it has been a profound privilege to share some of Africa’s majesty – triumphs and tragedies alike – with our dedicated subscribers, followers and travellers. Thank you for sharing in my passion (and tolerating my occasionally peculiar sense of humour!).

Fortunately, as Simon explained, this is not a permanent farewell, and the ongoing friendship will ensure that I shall always be able to call Africa Geographic home.

THANK YOU

A big THANK YOU to all those who donated to help pangolin poaching victims during our three-month Save a Pangolin campaign. Your donations will continue to cover the expenses of treatment, medical equipment, and rehabilitation, to give these pangolins a second chance at spending a long life in the wild. We are happy to report that since May, four pangolins who received treatment from Provet have successfully been rehabbed and released back into the wild, while four are still undergoing treatment and rehabilitation.

Please continue to lend your support and donate to this important cause. Africa’s pangolins and the dedicated teams saving them still need YOUR help!

Please note all pangolins are housed off-site at a secure location for security purposes.

WATCH: Longing to see gorillas in the wild? Come on safari with Africa Geographic and make your travel dreams a reality. Choose from our carefully curated safari packages or customise your own adventure with our travel team. Why wait? Start planning your perfect trip now! (0:56). Click here to watch

Things to do in Victoria Falls

As the largest waterfall in the world, Victoria Falls needs little by way of introduction. Even to the uninitiated, the name conjures images of water thundering down into gorges, mist-soaked vistas, verdant vegetation, and adventure. The lively towns of Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwean side and Livingstone on the Zambian side are split down the middle by the Zambezi River at its most dramatic – the perfect escape for every traveller, from adrenaline junkies and budget-strapped students to families and romancing couples.

With a smorgasbord of natural, cultural, and gastronomic delights on offer and only a few days to enjoy them, deciding how best to spend one’s time can be something of a challenge! Have a look at our ultimate Victoria Falls to-do list to inspire your next itinerary. Then, check out all the info you need for planning your Victoria Falls safari here (including our ready-made packages).

Grab your camera and set out on a tour of mighty Victoria Falls

It should go without saying that the magnificent waterfall should be the first port of call for any visit to the region. Here the mighty Zambezi River gathers its strength and tumbles off a plateau nearly two kilometres wide before plunging into a series of dramatic gorges 100 metres below. The tours through the forests and to the best viewing points are conducted in the morning and afternoon to showcase this spectacle of Africa in the best light. With shimmering rainbows, clouds of thick spray and the thundering power of the water, touring the Falls is an all-encompassing sensory extravaganza.

Soak in the magic of the sunset on a Zambezi Dinner Cruise

Upstream of the Falls, the Zambezi River is gentle and serene, offering the perfect balm for the soul after an action-packed day. Decompress as the ripples of the river shimmer beneath one of Africa’s blazing sunsets and give way to the romance of the moment, replete with good food, fine drink and excellent company.

Enjoy delicious snacks and sundowners while listening for the cry of the fish eagle in the fading sunlight hours

Tour Livingstone Island, enjoy breakfast or high tea and take a dip in Devil’s Pool

Livingstone Island is often touted as the point at which David Livingstone first set eyes upon Victoria Falls (though one must imagine the noise might have tipped him off beforehand) and is positioned at the very edge of the Falls. Follow in David’s footsteps to the island in the company of experienced guides before sitting down to a hearty breakfast or high tea. Thrill-seekers can also swim into a rock pool (Devil’s Pool) and perch with elbows dangling out over the drop below!

It is important to note that this activity is only offered during the low-water months from August to January and can only be accessed from the Zambian side of Victoria Falls.

Spot the Big 5 on a game drive

Zambezi National Park (Zimbabwe), Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park (Zambia) and Victoria Falls Private Game Reserve (Zimbabwe) all provide exceptional opportunities to encounter the Big 5, along with a variety of other species. Climb aboard an open four-wheel drive vehicle and see if you can spot one of the region’s elusive black rhinos!

Take in the fascinating story of Victoria Falls on the Historical Bridge Tour

Transport yourself back in time to when Cecil John Rhodes envisioned a railway running from Cape to Cairo and the geographical impediments blocking its path. Descend onto the catwalks below the Victoria Falls Bridge and consider the feats of engineering involved in its construction at the very start of the 20^th century. The tongue-in-cheek guides will provide a light-hearted but detailed history of this remarkable structure.

Adventure to nearby Chobe National Park for the day

Botswana’s Chobe National Park is a name imbued with the spirit of safari legend – a land of dramatic wildlife viewing and hundreds upon hundreds of elephants. Set out on a short drive from the Falls to the nearest border post, where a Botswana guide will collect you for the day’s activities. Enjoy a morning boat cruise on the lazy Chobe River, admiring the wildlife on the floodplains before enjoying lunch and an afternoon game drive.

Plunge through the rapids of some of the best white water rafting in the world

The rapids below the falls are classified as Grade V, and nothing is quite as humbling as experiencing the sheer power of the water, armed with just a plastic oar and a lifejacket. The mighty river will propel you through a thrilling series of twists, turns, and heart-stopping drops, interspersed with stretches of calm where you can catch your breath and soak in the beauty of the towering gorges and verdant surrounds.

White water rafting is only guaranteed in August and September, though the season may vary depending on water levels.

Immerse yourself in a gourmet experience at the Dusty Road Township Dining Experience

Situated deep in the heart of the bustling Chinotimba township, not far from Victoria Falls town centre, Dusty Road offers a vibrant dining experience unlike any other. Amidst rustic tables and flickering lanterns, indulge your tastebuds with a tantalizing array of flavours crafted from locally sourced ingredients.

Chase that adrenaline rush on the flying fox/gorge swing/zipline/bungee jump

Victoria Falls is considered Africa’s adventure capital and is overflowing (literally?) with electrifying activities for thrill-seekers. The bungee jump off the iconic Victoria Falls Bridge is one of the world’s highest jumps. The gorge swing will pendulum you out over Batoka Gorge in an exhilarating zero-gravity experience. Intrepid travellers on the zipline (foefie slide) will reach speeds of over 100km/hr over the gorge, while those looking for a more sedate (but still vertigo-inducing) approach can opt for the flying fox.

Embark on a journey through time (and enjoy a scrumptious meal) on the Steam Train

Climb aboard the luxury steam train at Victoria Falls station and let it transport you to a bygone era of splendour. The train will stop on the Victoria Falls Bridge just in time to watch the sunset in one of the most magical spots in Africa. Then it is time to sit down to a gourmet dinner as the train chuffs its way through the bushveld.

Take to the skies and admire the scenery of Victoria Falls from above on the ‘Flight of Angels’ helicopter trip

David Livingstone was so taken with the beauty of the Falls that he famously suggested that “scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight”, so how better to appreciate them than from the sky? The helicopters have cleverly designed bubble-shaped windows to enjoy the panoramic views over the falls and surrounds.

Keep on track on a Bicycle Tour along the Zambezi River

Cycle along the Batoka Gorge, stopping every now and again to take in the breath-taking views before encountering the world-famous Big Tree (a massive baobab believed to be 3,500 years old) and cycle across the Victoria Falls Bridge, all in the company of an expert guide.

Dine out on the world-famous experience at The Boma

The Boma restaurant is about more than ordering dinner; it is a complete Zimbabwean cultural experience. Join the hand-washing ceremony before sampling the traditional beer to whet the appetite before dinner. During the varied meal of everything from venison to mopane worms, Tsonga dancers, storytellers and entertainers will hold the floor. Then take to the dance floor and show off your newly-mastered dance moves!

Enjoy the electric atmosphere while dining at The Boma

Saddle up and canter out into the wilderness on horseback (all experience levels are catered for!)

Exploring the wilderness on horseback is a unique experience, not least because the wild animals do not perceive the horses as a threat, allowing for unusually close encounters with otherwise shy ungulates such as kudu or impala. Spend the day tracking elephants and buffaloes in the deep shade of the Zambezi River’s riverine forests and perhaps even stop for a brief siesta during the day’s hottest hours.

Clip on a harness and swing out on a Canopy Tour

With a network of nine slides over the gorges, trails and a ropeway bridge through the hardwood forests, the Victoria Falls canopy tour offers some of the area’s best views. Furthermore, this experience is open to adventure-seekers of all ages, including families and groups.

Go curio and craft shopping and find the perfect souvenir from the perfect Victoria Falls holiday

Enthusiastic shoppers will find their senses overwhelmed on this daily tour of open-air markets, crochet halls, galleries and boutique stores selling handcrafted works of art. Admire the stone sculptures, wooden carvings, textiles, jewellery and crochet lovingly created by local artisans and pick out gifts for loved ones back home.

There are so many curios to choose from when shopping in and around Victoria Falls

Now that you are armed with our ultimate Victoria Falls to-do list, it’s time to start planning your holiday! Contact our travel experts to explore one of the world’s most incredible natural marvels.

Kudu

If cliches are to be believed, then beauty is in the eye of the beholder – a subjective standard upon which there can be no universal agreement. Yet of Africa’s over 70 antelope species, there can be no question that some are more bewitching than others. There are the stately eland and the glamorous sable, the burnished nyala and the beguiling impala. And then there is the kudu, the doe-eyed epitome of grace and elegance, all slender legs and eyes and a magnificent set of horns.

There are no beauty competitions in the wilderness (thank goodness), but if there were, the kudu would unequivocally be a shoo-in for one of the top spots.

All about the kudus (kudos?)

There are two species of kudu – the greater kudu (Tragelaphus strepsiceros) and the lesser kudu (Tragelaphus imberbis). Though humans could probably have done a better job with the common names (“lesser” is a bit pejorative, is it not?), the monikers accurately capture the size difference between the two. The greater kudu – an icon of the African safari – is substantially taller and heavier than its comparatively petite cousin. Lesser kudu also have a smaller distribution and are found only in East Africa, with a preference for semi-arid habitats. Greater kudu occur more widely across much of the continent, including most of southern and East Africa and just south of the Sahel in Central Africa.

Size aside, the morphological differences between the two species are subtle. The males are similarly equipped with an impressive pair of spiralling horns (more on these below), and sexual dimorphism is pronounced. Both species are decorated with a strip of white on the back, which bleeds into a delicate pattern of stripes running down the flank like dripping paint. White chevrons run from the inside of the eyes, contrasting against the rufous coat. Male greater kudu have a well-developed ridge of hair that runs down the length of the neck like an upside-down mohawk. This feature is absent in the lesser kudu, which instead has a striking set of black and white bands.

Both species are cryptic antelope with a preference for dense vegetation. They are not fast and rely instead on their agility and spectacular jumping prowess to escape potential predators, jinking and jiving through the trees when pursued. Kudu are relatively strict browsers (though greater kudu have been observed grazing) and can survive for long periods without drinking, supplementing their water intake with succulents and fruits.

Quick facts about the kudu

	Greater kudu	Lesser kudu
Av. Height (shoulder)	M: 135-160cm F: 121 cm	M: 95-105 cm F: 90-100 cm
Av. Mass	M: 190-270kg F: 120-210 kg	M: 90-108 kg F: 56-70 kg
Gestation period	240 days (8 months)	Between 7 and 8 months
IUCN Red List	Least Concern	Near Threatened

To a greater or lesser extent

It is no secret that our understanding of antelope phylogeny is not dissimilar to a tangled ball of wool at present – based on physical similarities and occasionally inaccurate assumptions. Scientists are using genetic tools to disentangle the mess and have made considerable strides towards understanding evolutionary relationships. However, a great deal of work is still to be done. Kudu belong to the Tragelaphini – the spiral-horned antelope tribe, which includes nine different species in two genera (for now). Thus, they are related to eland, nyala, bushbuck, sitatunga and the bongo. The closest relatives to this tribe are bovines, such as buffalos, bison, and wild cattle.

The natural assumption would be that the greater and lesser kudu would be more closely related to each other than any other member of the Tragelaphini tribe, but, fascinatingly, this does not seem to be the case. A comprehensive analysis conducted in 2005 of mitochondrial DNA suggested that the lesser kudu is the basal member of the tribe. Even more confusingly, later research on nuclear DNA indicated that lesser kudu and nyala separated from the rest of the Tragelaphini at least 13 million years ago. Either way that means that, bizarrely, the lesser kudu is more closely related to the nyala, and the greater kudu is more closely related to the mountain nyala. The distance between the lesser kudu and the rest of the Tragelaphini tribe has even prompted some scientists to argue that it represents an entirely different genus – the Ammelaphus.

As if the hairs could not be split any finer, next comes the subspecies question. There are currently three commonly accepted subspecies of greater kudu:

s. strepsiceros – occurs over much of southern Africa
s. chora – found in northeastern Africa, in northern Kenya, Ethiopia, Somalia, Eritrea and eastern Sudan
s. cottoni – found in scattered populations in Chad and western Sudan

None of these subspecies has yet been recognised on the IUCN Red List. Some biologists have even proposed splitting the greater kudu into four different species (!) based on genetic evidence and morphological differences. But we may have to cross that bridge when it becomes more widely accepted…

Spiralling out

At this juncture, moving swiftly along from the minutiae of kudu taxonomy to some of their more apparent features seems appropriate. Naturally, the impressive spiral horns of the bulls tend to leave a lasting impression on first-time visitors to Africa, making them a delightful spot on any safari. (Check out these safaris where you can spot kudu and more). In greater kudu, these bony protuberances can achieve two and a half or even three full twists and, if straightened, would reach over a metre in length. Record-breaking specimens have been measured at over 180cm.

The bulls use these horns primarily as an intimidation tactic. Kudu are gregarious and not territorial, but competition may arise over a female in oestrus (receptive to mating). However, actual physical confrontations are rare, and the larger, more dominant bull usually frightens away potential competitors by displaying his full size. Evenly matched contenders may clash horns, sometimes with fatal consequences. Though such reports are sporadic, kudu bulls have been known to tangle their twisting horns so severely that they find themselves locked together and may eventually die of dehydration, a broken neck or predation.

Like the stag of Aesop’s Fables, these magnificent horns have disadvantages, especially for an animal that usually runs through dense vegetation to escape predators. When fleeing, the bulls occasionally stretch their heads forward and tilt the horns flat along their necks, making navigation challenging. (There is a common old guide’s tale that they can roll their eyes back and look back at the pursuing predator through the hollow horn – it should not need to be clarified that this is physically impossible. The horn is solid bone.) It does not, however, seem to hinder them unduly!

The sense and sensibility of the kudu

The enormous satellite-dish ears of the kudu are another notable feature contributing to their other-worldly, innocent beauty. Fairly obviously, these exaggerated auricles are essential in catching and amplifying sound waves, conferring an exceptional sense of hearing. The kudu’s excellent aural faculties and equally acute eyesight make them one of the more reliable sentinels in the bushveld. When a kudu spots a potential predator, it lets loose an astonishingly loud alarm bark that can travel several kilometres on a cold morning. Many a desperate guide following this booming sound has found themselves well rewarded with a leopard or lion sighting courtesy of a vigilant kudu.

leopard — Kudus let out loud alarm barks when alerted to the presence of predators

Even without the bonus of a big cat, any aesthete should appreciate the opportunity to feast their eyes upon the picture of natural perfection that is the kudu. They are shy animals and not always confiding around vehicles full of loud, gawking onlookers, but most will allow for a brief sighting if approached carefully. Kudu-seekers will generally find greater kudus without difficulty on most popular safari tracks. Lesser kudus can be a bit more tricky, but the arid areas of southern Kenya and northern Tanzania are an excellent place to start.

Want to see greater and lesser kudu in the wild? Get in touch with our travel team to discuss your kudu-seeking safari – details below this story.

THIS WEEK

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Hyenas in Maputo + dwarf mongoose + Namibian safari

Hopefully you read our exposé on trophy hunting in Botswana’s NG13 a few weeks ago. Well, the plot thickens.

After this post went live, we received the results of an audit of the Tcheku Community Trust, reflecting significant financial irregularities. The most serious involves the trophy hunter featured in our exposé. According to the audit report, the 2022 trophy hunting fee of US$100,000 paid by the hunter was about half of the stipulated reserve price. The audit report reveals that the Trust general manager accepted the lower offer from the trophy hunter without the required approval of the Trust Board. One wonders why he would do that. No wonder the trophy hunter’s gross profit we reported is so obscenely high!

The discussions in our app reveal a few pro-hunters attempting to whitewash this situation. One gent accused me/AG of a “hit job on the hunting industry ameteurshly (sic) disguised as a social injustice crusade“. The argument put forward by another is that this is the only alternative to no revenue at all. My my, what low standards the trophy hunting industry demands we all accept.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Every species has a part to play in its ecosystem. Hyenas, though often mistaken for the underdog, keep natural checks and balances in place between dead matter, plant life, prey and predators. So when an important ecosystem engineer like the hyena is absent, a tipping point looms. Aspiring to this bigger picture, Maputo National Park in Mozambique has released five hyenas into its system to recalibrate the balance – scoring a rewilding win for southern Africa. Read more in our first story.

And from one fearsome predator to the next: In our second story, we honour one of Africa’s most ferocious and courageous fighters: the dwarf mongoose. With razor-sharp claws and sharp teeth juxtaposed with an otherwise adorable fluffy exterior, the dwarf mongoose is Africa’s smallest mammalian predator. Read more to see what we love about these enigmatic little creatures.

Happy celebrating Africa!

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/hyena-royalty-returns-to-maputo-national-park/
MAPUTO’S HYENAS
Five spotted hyena have been released into Maputo National Park as part of a rewilding journey for this biodiversity hotspot

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/dwarf-mongoose/
DWARF MONGOOSE
The dwarf mongoose is Africa’s smallest mammalian predator, & are fascinating to see on safari

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Let us take you on an adventure to experience all Namibia has to offer or go in search of the Big 5 in Greater Kruger. Let us make your safari wishes a reality:

Private guided Namibia safari – Sossusvlei to Etosha – 13 days/12nights from N$112,000pps (Namibian Dollars)
Explore the best of Namibia on this privately guided Namibian safari, from the red dunes of Sossusvlei and the wildlife of Etosha, to the adventure of Walvis Bay. Over 13 days, your private guide will reveal the majesty of Namibia, its phenomenal wildlife and compelling historical and cultural diversity.

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

What does it take to keep a wild rhino alive in South Africa? There is no short or easy answer to that question. There may not even be a right one. The custodians of our beloved tubby grey icons have been thrust into an ever-changing war without rules, forced to trial and evaluate different strategies as they go along.

What we do know is that it takes money – lots of it. Did you know that in the Greater Kruger (including Kruger National Park), a minimum of ZAR 1.1 billion (US$ 61 million) was spent protecting rhino from 2017-2021? This figure was taken from a brand-new report: “Evaluating the cost and effectiveness of rhino conservation interventions in the Greater Kruger”.

Compiled by a cross-disciplinary team of scientists and reserve managers, the 17-page report delves into the successes and failures of various interventions, including camera technologies, K9 units, dehorning and so on. This monumental project is of profound importance and offers an eye-opening glimpse into the complexities of rhino conservation. It is well worth a read!

Wonderful safari experience to South Africa & Zimbabwe

The Siskind family had a wonderful experience travelling with us to Pungwe Safari Camp in Greater Kruger, South Africa and to Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge bordering Gonarezhou National Park, Zimbabwe. They had spectacular wildlife encounters in both countries and also had multiple wild dog sightings. Their plains game and elephant sightings were just as plentiful. Michael Siskind shares feedback on the experience:

“Africa Geographic was able to tailor our trip to what we wanted: a small unpretentious bush camp in the greater Kruger, where wildlife sightings are perhaps easier to come by, coupled with the wilderness experience of the far more remote Gonarezhou. AG succeeded on all accounts. Our week in Gonarezhou was essentially our own private expedition into the park. Due to the logistics of the trip, its success was dependent on the smooth functioning of multiple transfers, both vehicle and plane. The trip was very well organised and all transfers took place without a hitch. We look forward to planning another trip with AG!”

WATCH: Watch as two of Africa’s biggest and heaviest animals go head to head in a very rarely seen sighting. The hippo is trying his luck with the rhinos, but the rhinos are having none of it (2:44). Click here to watch

Dwarf mongoose

Fearsome predators are stalking the savannahs of Africa. With pointed, gleaming teeth and razor-sharp claws, they roam in packs and instil fear into the heart of their prey. They are ferocious fighters, capable of taking on deadly enemies through lightning-fast reflexes and almost reckless courage. They are dwarf mongoose, and each one is roughly the size and weight of a soda can.

Pint-sized predators

Africa’s smallest mammalian predator – the dwarf mongoose (Helogale species) – is an animal that is remarkably easy to anthropomorphise. Something in their beady, shining eyes speaks to considerable intelligence and personality, wrapped in an adorable, fluffy package. They are found from Ethiopia and Somalia to the northeastern corner of South Africa. Dwarf mongoose are a common sight on safari, though often dismissed in favour of the bigger and “more exciting” animals (to find the ideal African safari and spot dwarf mongooses in the wild, click here). Yet a bit of patience guarantees a rewarding sighting in their charming company.

Dwarf mongooses belong to the Herpestidae family, comprising over thirty mongoose species (including suricates/meerkats) spread across Europe, Africa, and Asia. Unbeknownst to most, there are two species of dwarf mongoose: the common dwarf mongoose (Helogale parvula) and the overlapping Ethiopian dwarf mongoose (Helogale hirtula). Though mongooses are famously charismatic animals, a considerable facet of dwarf mongoose appeal is their sociality. Like the banded mongoose and meerkat, dwarf mongoose live, reproduce and forage in cooperative groups.

These groups number between three to thirty individuals, where everything from territorial defence to raising pups is a team affair. A consequence of this collective approach to life is a complex social structure and hierarchy governed by fascinating community rules and peppered with surprising nuances.

Quick dwarf mongoose facts

Length	18-30cm
Mass	210-350 grams
Social structure	Groups of up to thirty
Gestation	49-53 days
IUCN Red List classification	Least Concern

Dwarf mongoose: tiny terrors of the bush

During the day, dwarf mongoose move through the vegetation in search of predominantly insect prey (but will also feed on reptiles, small mammals and birds). However, standing just a few centimetres off the ground makes it almost impossible to maintain visual contact, and thus vocal communication is of tremendous importance in dwarf mongoose societies. They chatter almost constantly to each other via a series of contact squeaks. Threats are communicated through a multitude of alarm calls, which convey not only the type of threat (bird, snake, and so on) but also the urgency. Some calls will make the entire group stop and look around, while others will send them scurrying for the nearest cover.

Fierce though the little animals may be, they are still on the menu for various birds of prey, mammalian predators and snakes. Like most members of the mongoose family, dwarf mongoose have some innate resistance to snake venom, but contrary to popular belief, this does not confer complete immunity.

Miniature monarchs

A dominant pair lead dwarf-mongoose groups, usually consisting of the oldest male and female. These pocket-sized patricians are the only ones guaranteed to reproduce, while the rest of the group (composed of related and unrelated individuals) focuses on protecting the pups each season. This can entail everything from babysitting and guarding the den to providing food and teaching the pups valuable hunting skills. Like meerkats, some subordinate females (around 12%) mate and fall pregnant, but these offspring are usually either aborted or killed by the dominant female. The reproductive cycles of all group females are highly synchronised, meaning that they enter oestrus within days of each other. Consequently, subordinate females may further contribute by lactating and suckling the dominant pair’s pups.

Naturally, the drive to reproduce is a biological imperative. So, subordinate mongooses are left with two options: wait their turn for a shot at the top position or disperse and find another group with better prospects. In dwarf mongooses, both males and females disperse, though males are more likely to do so.

Playful pups, hungry hornbills (and viral videos)

Pups are born during the rainy season when insect prey is abundant and prosperous groups may raise several successive litters of four to six pups yearly. The minuscule pups are born into a dangerous world, and even the relative security of their termite mound dens does not guarantee their safety. Snakes represent a constant threat to young babies, so den-bound young are left with babysitters. At the same time, the rest of the group forages. If a snake is spotted, these babysitters will sound the alarm and even mob and distract the offending reptile while the pups are transported to safety.

Den-bound pups are left with babysitters

When the pups emerge from the den, their world is filled with things to explore and lessons to learn. With the energy intrinsic to the young of all mammals, they immediately engage in nibbling, wrestling, begging for food and, hilariously, scent-marking. The latter is particularly entertaining because dwarf mongoose have scent glands positioned under the tail, and the secretions are deposited as high above the ground as possible (conveniently at nose level for the receiver). Given their rather stubby legs, this contortion involves a handstand accompanied by an impressive wiggle. For uncoordinated, growing pups, it is a movement that is particularly difficult to master.

Another important lesson for dwarf mongoose pups is good relations with their neighbours. Dwarf mongooses have a particularly fascinating mutualistic relationship with hornbills. The hornbills can scoop up the insects disturbed by the foraging mongooses while providing additional security through watchful eyes at a higher vantage point. This association is so beneficial to both parties that they will await the arrival of the other before setting out for the day. However, in one now-viral incident, a baby mongoose was recorded inviting the hornbill to play with it by “pretending to be dead“.

Sentinels, signals, and snubbing

In addition to pup rearing, dwarf mongoose engage in several other cooperative behaviours, including acting as sentinels and allogrooming. Through observing these behaviours, scientists have gleaned a wealth of information about the subtleties of dwarf mongoose ethology. For example, serving as the group’s lookout is a particularly revealing behaviour as it comes at some cost to the individual in the form of lost foraging and feeding opportunities. It also requires considerable trust because, although the rest of the group remains alert, a dozy sentry could spell death from above or below. Research has shown that new arrivals (immigrants) are considered less “trustworthy” as sentinels for up to five months until they have earned the group’s trust. Conversely, the male and female of the dominant pair appear to be regarded as the most reliable sentinels.

Sentinels are rewarded with allogrooming for their time served

Though acting sentinel may seem a burdensome task, experts have also found it well-rewarded come sunset. Just before they retreat below ground for the night, the group members gather together at the entrance of their chosen burrow and set about grooming each other. Allogrooming reinforces the bonds between group members and helps to reduce anxiety levels. Animals that acted as sentinel each day were rewarded with this affirming grooming during these socialisation periods, suggesting that dwarf mongoose are not only aware of which individuals are putting in the work but capable of retaining that information throughout the day. Even more astounding, troublemakers that instigate aggressive encounters are also noted with disdain and “punished” at the end of the day with less attention. In other words, bullies are essentially snubbed by the rest of the group!

A considerable facet of dwarf mongoose appeal is their sociality

Final thoughts on dwarf mongoose

A dwarf mongoose sighting is usually first announced by a streak of brown fur flashing across the track. But sit tight, and you will hear the chirrups of the rest of the group as they regroup. With patience, their natural curiosity generally wins out, and little heads will emerge to investigate the situation with bright eyes. While lions and elephants are always exciting finds, it is always worth remembering that Africa’s little animals can be just as enthralling.

Hyena royalty returns to Maputo National Park

Apex predators have serious status. The lion lies in first place in the mighty hierarchy of Africa’s food chain – a fair call given their magnificence and top-down significance. But no species exists in isolation; survival hinges on the interplay between each species. Aspiring to this bigger picture, Maputo National Park in Mozambique (declared in 2021, joining Maputo Special Reserve and Ponta do Ouro Partial Marine Reserve) is topping up its scavenger quota, beginning this month with five spotted hyena incoming from Sabie Game Park. Not to oversell the underdogs, this represents another great if unsuspecting, rewilding win for southern Africa. Peace Parks Foundation shares this report.

“Without impalas and hyenas, the lion cannot be the king of the jungle.” – African proverb

For a time, wildlife suffered across Mozambique’s protected areas and, as a result, so did ‘functionality’ – how well the environment could work, by and for itself. Rebuilding this rhythm at scale is a highly sensitive, strategic process since every living thing has its place and dependencies within the system. This includes spotted hyena, previously eradicated in the park, but for a small leftover population. To fix this and restore the balance that comes with a vital scavenging role is precisely what Mozambique’s National Administration for Conservation Areas (ANAC) and Peace Parks have set out to do.

A new age and status for Maputo National Park

Maputo National Park was proclaimed in 2021 after merging Maputo Special Reserve, and Ponta do Ouro Marine Reserve. It forms an integral 1,700km² of the Lubombo Transfrontier Conservation and Resource Area. (To learn more about safaris in this special area, click here.) Remarkably, the park falls within the Maputaland-Pondoland-Albany Biodiversity Hotspot, one of 36 hotspots among Earth’s most biologically diverse and endangered ecoregions. This has been a powerful motivation in presenting it to the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) for assessment and approval as a World Heritage Site, an extension of the adjoining iSimangaliso Wetland Park in South Africa, which already carries World Heritage status.

ANAC, which directs the management of Mozambique’s National Parks and Reserves, and Peace Parks Foundation signed a 15-year agreement in 2018 to restore, develop and manage the park – taking joint responsibility for the health and wealth of its supernature in the wake of a civil war. Among this region’s remaining biodiversity bank were many species needing rehab – and not just the iconic ones.

The art of revival: go big with hyena to go wild

And so began an ambitious wildlife translocation programme to Maputo National Park. The aim is to bring back nature by reintroducing animals historically found in the area. Boosting the recovery of their populations is essential to developing the park as a tourist destination. Still, it is vital to restoring balance and abundance far and beyond the acclaim of re-building the Big Five and friends.

Rewilding began with kudu, impala, giraffe, buffalo, wildebeest, eland, zebra and other plains game species being trucked in. By 2022, 5,101 animals had been successfully translocated into the park from wildlife-plentiful parks and reserves, including 11 species that had become locally extinct. Many are now bouncing back naturally under the renewed protection of the park’s rangers, and thanks to natural animal ‘walkways’ restoring connectivity between historical ranges.

The park’s 2021 aerial census counted more than 12,000 animals, a marker of richness and progress but not necessarily completeness. And so the need has been recognised for the reintroduction of scavengers: the five hand-picked hyenas from Sabie Game Park, a protected area in western Mozambique which shares its borders with South Africa’s iconic Kruger National Park. Sabie can happily and healthily spare a small clan thanks to its wildlife revival.

No rewilding operation is a basic case of shifting species X from A to B. An expertly coordinated and carefully executed plan is tailored to each translocation, often involving multiple teams and partners. The Mozambique Wildlife Alliance, an organisation key to the success of this move and many gone before, makes the vastly complex process of relocating animals safely and smoothly orchestrated. Its vets have seen many a species land successfully in their new homes and go on to flourish. With a quarter of Mozambique declared conservation space equipped with a visionary rewilding outlook and great motivation, their services will be valued here for many years.

When moving hyena, micro-management is required from the start, given the complex hierarchical clan structure. Family ties and hierarchy must be respected for the founder population to get along with each other and their neighbouring kin. The capture is equally complex; successful baiting in the dark depends on duping and doping the suspicious scavengers. Once caught, they are loaded onto vehicles and translocated directly to bomas in Maputo National Park. Resting and refuelling in these holding pens allows them time to build reserves and get new bearings until they’re declared good to go by the vigilant vets and the Maputo National Park conservation team.

Bad-turned-good friends with benefits

With plains game thriving and a prey stockpile mounting nicely, it is now the predators’ time to shine in the park. The spotted scavengers are vital in paving the way for the much-anticipated big cats and helping things run smoothly and cleanly.

The new clan will act in a supporting predation role to the cheetah that is hoped to be introduced soon – and all eyes will be on them as they do. Some of them will have satellite collars fitted pre-release. This data feed, along with the park’s considerable camera trap network, will allow teams to monitor group composition and condition and to understand each individual’s patterns of movement and behaviour.

Their new home is full of hope and opportunity, which is long overdue for a species with a history of coexisting on the edge. It is also a new era richly deserved by a park where dedicated efforts to rewild, protect, connect and sustain already influence entire landscapes and communities within and beyond its bounds. It is a promising prospect for hyenas as they gradually re-establish and extend their range to benefit the entire transboundary tree of life.

Gaining this species which values kinship so highly for its survival, Maputo National Park can be proud to forge this ecological friends-with-benefits relationship between hyenas, humans and ecosystems. It is a testament to the will to revive great spaces and their many wild assets… and uplift the underdog.

“Declare kinship with the hyena, and all hyenas are your friend.” African Proverb.

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Best safari month + talking testes + elegant impala

There is a debate going on in our office about the best time to go on safari, and several of our safari experts swear October is the best month for an African adventure. With predators easy to spot at waterholes in southern Africa, fewer crowds at those Mara River wildebeest crossings and warm weather favouring relaxation on the beach, there are plenty of reasons to start planning an October safari now. Read why in our first post below.

And then, as common as mud yet far more captivating, impalas are a staple of any safari experience. Described by ecologist Dr Richard Estes as “the perfect antelope”, impalas are known for their resilience and athleticism. We still enjoy spending time observing herds of these doe-eyed mammals, and our second story below may have you seeing them in a new light.

Finally, the vets at Provet this week are treating one of their tiniest pangolins yet – a newborn pup whose mom clung to him with all her might to protect him from poachers. Read more about our Save a Pangolin campaign and find out how you can help below.

Happy celebrating Africa!

Taryn van Jaarsveld – Editor

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/travel/october-best-african-safari-month
OCTOBER SAFARI
Several of our safari experts view October as the best month for a safari in Africa

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/impala/
ELEGANT IMPALA
Impalas are one of the most common yet remarkable antelope species. We celebrate these doe-eyed safari stalwarts

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From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Let’s talk (briefly) about testicles. In particular, their position in relation to the rest of the body. Those among you that are a) in possession of testicles and b) have ever suffered some kind of trauma to that general vicinity should be able to attest to the fact that their placement makes them vulnerable. And a cursory glance at a galloping buffalo bull should be sufficient to convince you that life could be worse.

Why would nature have designed things so? Thermoregulation, right? We were all taught that the testes hang outside the body to keep them cool for sperm production. But did you know that the reason for external testicles is actually contested in the study of evolutionary sciences? Because we don’t know what came first – cooler testicles or the requirement thereof. And there are plenty of exceptions to the rule. Elephants and rhinos have internal testicles without significant reproductive challenges and, perhaps more appealingly, without wandering around with an additional exposed appendage.

Temperature control aside, there are several competing theories to explain external testes, including a “training” hypothesis, a “galloping” hypothesis and, somewhat entertainingly, a “display” hypothesis. You can read more about the subject here.

PANGOLIN PUP!

Another pangolin pair has been saved by Provet Animal Hospital. A Temminck’s ground pangolin was recently confiscated from the illegal wildlife trade in the Northern Cape. On inspection, local vets discovered she was clutching and protecting her little newborn pup, still wrapped in afterbirth. In extreme trauma situations, pangolins often deliver pups early. She was found with a head wound inflicted by poachers who had attempted to pry her curled body open using a spade.

The pair were then airlifted to Provet for treatment and rehabilitation. Unfortunately, the mother had no milk to offer her pup. The little male had already lost 30g since his initial weigh-in and had extremely low blood sugar levels. Dr Debbie English and her team made the tough decision to separate the mother and pup to give them the best chance of survival.

The team is hopeful that the mother’s wound will heal quickly and she will be released back into the wild soon, while her pup has a very long road of recovery and rehabilitation ahead of him as he needs to be hand-reared. Please donate and lend your support to the hardworking teams who are dedicated to saving Africa’s pangolins.

PLEASE NOTE ALL PANGOLINS ARE HOUSED OFF-SITE AT A SECURE LOCATION FOR SECURITY PURPOSES

WATCH: Go behind the scenes of one of the largest ever animal translocation projects in the world. Watch how African Parks and partners embarked on a project to reinvigorate the elephant population of Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve (4:34). Click here to watch

Impala

Ask any safari guide or returning guest about their favourite animal in Africa. The answer is invariably one of the more “charismatic” creatures – lions, leopards, giraffes, elephants and so on. The chances of their saying “impala” are small. Ubiquitous as impala are, these elegant antelope are generally overlooked by all but the most enthusiastic of nature lovers. Yet viewed through appreciative eyes, the impala is one of the most remarkable animals in the African bushveld: doe-eyed, resilient and effortlessly athletic.

Impala basics

In his seminal book on the behaviour of African mammals, celebrated ecologist Dr Richard Estes describes the impala (Aepyceros melampus) as “the perfect antelope”. Though he does not explain his reasons for this sentiment, it isn’t difficult to understand his thought process. Impalas are widespread and abundant throughout much of sub-Saharan Africa and are easily one of the most common antelope species. Moreover, the impala hit upon the perfect recipe early in its evolutionary history. Research shows they have remained relatively unchanged for at least five million years.

While previously believed to be a sister taxon to the hartebeest family, genetic studies have revealed that the impala’s closest relative is the diminutive suni (Neotragus moschatus). However, the impala is the only member of its genus and is the sole member of the Aepycerotini (“high horned”) tribe. Though there is only one recognised species of impala, the black-faced impala (A. m. petersi) of Namibia and Angola is listed as a valid subspecies on the IUCN Red List.

One explanation for their early evolutionary success is the impala’s unfussy approach to sustenance. They are mixed feeders, meaning they will graze, browse, and switch between feeding modes depending on the season. They focus on grasses during the early rainy season, when the grass species are green and still growing, before slowly switching to browsing foliage, shoots and forbs as the dry season progresses. This flexibility in feeding is also seen in different habitats. It confers an unusually abundant and reliable food supply and ensures that the impala ewes generally have sufficient sustenance to produce a lamb yearly.

Impala drinking — Impalas are widespread throughout much of sub-Saharan Africa

An impressive production of new lambs each year is essential, as impalas are a staple prey species for all large predators (including martial eagles and other birds of prey). Mortalities are high year-round, but especially during lambing. Therefore, it is somewhat unsurprising that impalas are alert and observant antelope. Their keen eyes are usually the first to pick out the creeping outline of a stalking leopard or cheetah. If a predator is spotted, the herd will let out a cacophony of sharp barks – unless the predator is a pack of painted wolves, in which case the herd may scatter without so much as a sound. However, research has shown that impalas tend to adopt a “better safe than sorry” approach and may be so jumpy that they give off a false alarm call. Consequently, other animals take the warning vocalisations of impalas less seriously.

The males and females are sexually dimorphic – the rams are larger and sport an impressive set of lyre-shaped horns.

Quick impala facts

Shoulder height:	Males: 75–92cm
	Females: 70–85cm
Mass:	Males: 53–76kg
	Females: 40–53kg
Social structure:	Variable depending on region and season. Mixed herds, bachelor groups and territorial males
Gestation:	194–200 days (six and a half months)
Conservation status	Least Concern

In leaps and bounds

The spring-loaded impalas are undoubtedly one of the most impressive athletes in the animal kingdom, capable of leaping over three metres into the air and covering ten metres in a single bound. They are also exceptionally fleet of foot, capable of reaching top speeds of over 90km/hour. When running from predators, a herd of impalas will explode into a series of spectacular leaps in every direction, cutting in front of each other or jumping over other individuals in a way that makes it more difficult for the attacker to select a target.

These impressive physical displays are poetry in motion and a pleasure to watch, but even the impala seem to enjoy their abilities at times. On cooler mornings, individuals break out into a unique jumping style where the hindlegs are thrown upwards into a “handstand” before rebounding and leaping upwards again. This rocking high jump is still not fully understood and seems infectious – once one goes, many others follow. While impossible to prove, anyone who has ever witnessed impalas bounding about like this would be hard-pressed to deny that they – adults and youngsters alike – seem to be having fun.

Colours, contours and cleanliness

The rufous two-tone coats of the impalas are another distinguishing feature, with the dark fawn-coloured top half contrasting with tan flanks and a white underbelly. This is theorised to be an example of countershading in nature, breaking the pattern of light and shade of a three-dimensional animal. The idea is that the darker dorsal colouration helps disguise ventral shadowing when lit from above and hides the shape of the impala from potential predators. The flank stripe may also visually amplify the vertical leaps of fleeing impalas, making them seem even more impressive and thus deter predators. Interesting but so far unexplained is the astonishing similarity in the colouration of the impalas and the gerenuk – two antelope with no close phylogenetic relationship.

The dark line markings on either side and through the middle of the impala’s tail are likely signalling devices, particularly during a chase. When impalas are running from a threat or displaying stotting (showing off) behaviour, the tail is also raised to expose the fluffy underside, which may help individuals stay together as a group. The black metatarsal glands on the back legs – found only on the impala – are also believed to serve a similar function by releasing pheromones during high stress.

Of all antelopes, impalas are perhaps the most meticulous about grooming. They are also one of the few that engage in both self- and allogrooming (where one individual grooms the other). The loose teeth of the front lower jaw form a functional toothcomb that helps to remove ectoparasites.

A roaring good time

Impala social structures and spatial arrangements vary depending on region and seasonality. In Southern Africa, impalas have a strict breeding season that begins during the dry season and lasts only about a month. This seasonality is governed by decreasing day length. During the rut, the males’ androgen levels increase dramatically, and the physiological effects manifest as a thickening of the neck and enlargement of the testicles. During this time, mature rams are territorial, defending their patch from interloping males and working overtime to keep females herded around them. The impalas of East Africa (which are much larger) often have a more extended breeding season that may last for most of the year. Here the rams usually dispense with territorial defence for only a few months over the dry season.

rams in the rain — Three males on high alert in the rain

These territorial males become single-minded to the point of recklessness, barely stopping to eat, groom, sleep or watch for predators. They produce a loud roaring sound so unexpected from an antelope that more than one safari guest has mistaken it for the terrifying sound of a fearsome predator. These highly-strung rams are far from conflict-averse, and violent clashes and serious injuries are frequent. This constant activity takes a considerable toll on their physical health, and a male will often find themselves ousted by a fitter competitor. This is even more pronounced in East Africa, where the males have to try and maintain territories for longer.

Interestingly, this behaviour is also seen during the lambing season in Southern Africa, albeit less dramatically. There is a corresponding spike in androgen levels in the males, which is still not fully understood, though it is probably related to the pheromones of the females in late-stage pregnancy.

The lambs of spring (well, summer)

There is a prevalent misconception that female impalas can delay the birth of their lambs for up to a month in anticipation of the arrival of the rains. However, this is a physiological impossibility – a ewe cannot control her fetus’s growth, and labour is triggered when the lamb reaches its full size. The arrival of some lambs later in the season can easily be explained by a later conception time – either because the ewe came into oestrus late or the first oestrus did not result in conception. Poor nutrition may also slow the growth of the foetus slightly.

lamb birth — A newborn, fresh out the womb, struggles to its feet. Within minutes it will be walking

In Southern Africa, the lambs are born around November and early December (check them out on your next safari to Greater Kruger), during this region’s “baby season”. A couple of days after birth, the mother will lead her lamb back to the herd, where it will join a nursery with the other newborns. These nurseries may be guarded by a few ewes or even left to fend for themselves for hours each day. When it comes time for the ewe to feed her baby, both mother and offspring bleat frantically until they are reunited. Like all ungulates, the lambs are quick to find their feet, and the sight of them bouncing around and showing off on absurdly spindly legs is utterly beguiling. Play fighting is a common sight, and the male lambs begin butting heads long before their horns grow.

The lambs are weaned as early as four months old, with just enough time for the females to try and recover body condition before the rut begins. To put her life into perspective, an impala ewe is pregnant for over six months, lactating for another four, and then has about a month to herself before the rams start chasing her from pillar to post. She will then fall pregnant again and grow a 5kg lamb during the dry season when available food is at its least nutritious. And, as if this weren’t enough, she can still run at over 75km/hour to escape predators. This should give some idea of the evolutionary marvel that is the svelte impala.

Final thoughts on impala

The next time you happen to find yourself on safari, take a moment to stop with a herd of impalas and spend some time simply observing them. The impala is the one animal you are almost guaranteed to spot on every game drive, so why not take the opportunity to appreciate them?

THIS WEEK

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Trophy hunting exposé + expedition Iona

My opinion editorial in the stories below speaks for itself. We follow the money and shed some light on the opaque trophy hunting industry. This process – of shining a spotlight into dark corners – is essential for any industry claiming to be sustainable and responsible.

It seems like government decision-makers are happy to sell off the last of Africa’s roaming giant tuskers for a relative pittance and set trophy hunting quotas for leopards without the benefit of accurate population stats. That said, they could at least make sure that local people receive enough compensation from trophy hunters to drag themselves out of extreme poverty. One way to achieve this is to enforce transparency, supervision and audits of signed contracts between trophy hunters and communities and the related flow of money.

As usual I am open to interesting discussions and fact-based analysis with anyone that can add to my understanding of the situation – regardless of your opinion.

A responsible safari tip: when you book your next African safari please allocate some time in a remote area not blessed with guaranteed sightings of charismatic species. By doing that, you monetise those areas and so empower local people to tolerate wildlife and to live without trophy hunting as a source of revenue. Just a thought. We are here to guide you through those decisions.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

A few weeks ago I met up with a few dozen well-wishers at Lesedi Cultural Village in Gauteng, who had gathered to see off Kingsley Holgate and his team of adventurers for their 41st expedition into Africa – to much fanfare and ululation. Fed up with stories of doom and gloom around conservation, Kingsley’s Afrika Odyssey expedition team have set out on a journey of purpose to connect 22 protected areas managed by African Parks and showcase their positive stories of hope for the continent. We are pleased to share the first in a series of stories they will tell from the road. Read expedition member Sheelagh Antrobus’s raw and whimsical narrative on the team’s journey to Iona National Park in our second story below.

And then, check out Simon’s Op Ed below as we follow the money on a major elephant hunt in Botswana.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/trophy-hunting-in-botswanas-ng13-we-follow-the-money/
TROPHY HUNTED
We follow the money to reveal how this trophy hunter makes huge profits by not adequately compensating the NG13 communities in Botswana

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/journey-to-iona-kingsley-holgates-afrika-odyssey-expedition/
EXPEDITION IONA
Kingsley Holgate & his Afrika Odyssey expedition team set out to connect 22 parks managed by African Parks. Read about their quest to Iona NP

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From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Did you know that, like most young humans, young leopards go through a dumb teenage phase? This is particularly true of adolescent males. Driven by a soup of hormones, youthful curiosity and (I assume) an underdeveloped prefrontal cortex, they may start doing strange things like following lions, stalking rhinos, and even observing people or jumping on cars.

Of course, this “abnormal” behaviour immediately sees them labelled as dangerous or problematic. And when humans permit, encourage, and promote this behaviour, the animal invariably suffers.

The fact this week was inspired by a video doing the rounds of a young leopard in the Kruger that leapt onto the hood of a car and set about investigating the occupants (I will not be promoting it further). It has been widely shared, including by a well-known media platform, without reference to how this behaviour should be discouraged. I continue to be amazed at how people will exploit wildlife for their social media fame. And then, when called out on it, fail to show any humility or admit to mistakes (which we all make).

I cannot believe I have to say this, but please don’t let leopards or other big cats climb onto your car. And for guides, photographers and wildlife “influencers” – please be aware of the message you send out into the world.

The perfect Botswana trip

Nina Chambers and five friends travelled with us on an unforgettable trip to Botswana. She shares feedback on her experience:

“There are a lot of choices to make in planning a safari. Africa Geographic put together a trip for me that gave me the experience I was looking for in a way that I would not have been able to do on my own.

I’ve been dreaming about this trip for years, and the reality was even better than I could imagine. The agent we worked with, Nadia, was absolutely wonderful! She understood what I was looking for, was very responsive with excellent information and answers to our many questions, and all her suggestions for the trip hit the mark perfectly.

Bakwena Lodge was a perfect start… The mobile safari was excellent, and the Chobe River trip and Khwai mokoro were great additions. Moremi Crossing was an excellent cap to the trip.

Africa Geographic tailored the trip specifically to what I was looking for—every component of the trip was thoughtful and demonstrated their knowledge of the services and experiences available. They were very helpful in arranging all the details; I’ve never felt more taken care of than on this trip. Don’t mess around trying to figure this out on your own: work with Africa Geographic to create your perfect trip.”

Feeling inspired to book your next Botswana safari with Africa Geographic? Click here to check out our Botswana classic mobile safari.

WATCH: A once in a lifetime sighting. These safari goers thought they had hit the jackpot when they came across a mating pair of leopards. But the action was only just beginning, as the pair were surprised by one unlucky impala (0:58). Click here to watch

Journey to Iona – Kingsley Holgate’s Afrika Odyssey expedition

Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Iona National Park in Angola is one of the first stops on their journey. Sheelagh Antrobus shares news from the road.

Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.

The Iona challenge

Our first Afrika Odyssey challenge is to cross the continent from the Indian Ocean in the east to where the Kunene River pours into the Atlantic Ocean, and reach the first park on our list: Iona National Park in the southwestern corner of Angola.

In the southern city of Lubango, we meet up with Brad Hansen (veteran of many past expeditions and an ambassador for African Parks) and Ken Wilcox. Ken is the patron of this Iona leg of the expedition, and in support is the larger-than-life Angolan character Stefan van Wyk and his crew of Raol, Fernando and Paulo.

Spirits are high as the adventure begins on the granite cobblestone road to the Tundavala Gap on the rim of Angola’s central plateau. The plateau’s awe-inspiring abyss abruptly drops 1,000 metres, providing endless views over far pavilions of jagged mountains and vast plains stretching down to the Namib Desert and the cold South Atlantic coast beyond.

Iona National Park — The dangerous hairpinned Serra da Leba pass en route to Iona

The big, heavily loaded expedition Land Rover Defender 130s expertly handle the dangerous hairpin bends of the Serra da Leba pass that twists and turns through several climatic zones down to the plateau below, its steep retaining walls covered in colourful graffiti. And then, down on the coast, the pastel shades of the old Portuguese houses mark the port town of Mossamedes.

Here, we’re joined by the African Parks team of Leon Lamprecht (regional operations manager), Iona park manager Pedro Monteroso and new conservation manager Dan van de Vyver – all determined to resurrect and protect Iona. Their enthusiasm is infectious, and they exhibit the same grit and determination as the ancient Welwitschia mirabilis that dot this desert landscape, across which we’re going to zigzag. Stefan leads us to one of the oldest and biggest welwitschias – as large as the Defenders – surrounded by hyena tracks. This ancient, leathery desert plant is reputed to grow only a few millimetres a year and lives for a thousand years or more. We set up a wild camp with the golden glow of the setting sun reflecting off massive sandstone outcrops. We are surrounded by cliffs softly lit by the spotlight from Stefan’s camp kitchen.

An expedition is born

It’s great to see Leon again. We had first met when he was managing Zakouma National Park in Chad, where we had shared many a campfire. This was when we first became fascinated by the success story of African Parks and their ability to resurrect, manage and protect vast tracts of African wilderness, sometimes against seemingly impossible odds. It’s a conservation miracle. In Zakouma, we had met rangers and the tough, experienced anti-poaching units. We learned how, in partnership with the government and local communities, they had stopped the mass elephant poaching in Zakouma by the Janjaweed (the feared ‘devils on horseback’) from neighbouring Sudan.

It was then we decided that one day if the ‘Zen of Travel’ was on our side, we would undertake a journey of hope for Africa’s wildlife by connecting all 22 African Parks-managed areas across the continent. It’s great when a plan comes together. Four years later, we are on this exciting Afrika Odyssey expedition.

The Afrika Odyssey Expedition and Iona teams

Hope and change in Iona

In the morning, with the expedition map stretched out on the Defender bonnet and using the Zulu Talking Stick, Pedro points out what lies ahead across the vast plains, dry riverbeds, rocky mountains and the track down to Foz du Cunene and the Atlantic Ocean.

Crossing into Iona National Park, there’s not another tourist in sight – just us on this journey of discovery. Iona was proclaimed a reserve in 1937 and was upgraded to a national park in 1964. However, as is true for most Angolan parks, the Civil War significantly disrupted the area. Poaching and the destruction of infrastructure have also caused considerable damage to the once-rich park. But now, there is hope and change.

It’s a race against the setting sun to meet ‘Platoon Two’ from the Himba community. They recently passed a stringent training programme to become the eyes and ears of the reaction force that is, under African Parks, bringing new energy and professional management to this area of well over a million hectares – making the rebirth of Iona a recipe for success, just like we had already seen at Zakouma.

We fill up with fuel and water at AP’s Forward Operations Base Camp at Esphinheira. The two original rondavels that had been the park headquarters in the days of Portuguese occupation remain, but now the camp buzzes with activity. In the control room, Leon uses a pointer and maps to show us what it’s taking to resurrect Iona: staff and vehicle movements, water, fuel, supplies, weaponry, personnel, and anti-poaching units. Such control rooms exist in all 22 African Parks stretched across the continent and are at the very heartbeat of the professional management that African Parks brings to the gold standard of running conservation at scale.

Art and glasses

But our visit to Iona is about more than wilderness. It also includes doing community work with the African Parks team. We’ll long remember judging a vibrant, educational wildlife art competition – the kids’ smiles, how beautifully the girls are dressed in their traditional colours. We’ll also remember the delight on the crinkly faces of the elderly at the gift of reading glasses – all part of using this adventure to add to the quality of the lives of others. In Ken’s words, “It gives me a warm feeling and adds meaning to the journey.”

Afrika Odyssey expedition humanitarian work includes provision of reading glasses

We’ll also remember the delightful interaction with the OvaKuvale, the semi-nomadic pastoralists. Women covered in colourful cloth wear ‘Ompata’ – large, square wooden headdresses. Not forgetting the OvaTwa people, believed to be related to the San-Bushmen, who have been in this area much longer than other tribes.

After presenting a homestead with gifts of maize meal, rice and sugar, Stefan explains how the OvaTwa women have adopted the traditional dress of the Himbas, the dominant tribe in the area. We have also met Himba folk in Namibia’s Kunene and Damaraland regions (ed: a great location for Namibia desert safaris). Despite their laughter and the kids pulling nervously on Kingsley’s beard, we can see their life is even more of a struggle than others, as they don’t own cattle – the equivalent of currency in this remote, desert region.

On the road again in the heat and the dust, the wreck of an old American Ford sedan on the roadside serves as a reminder of the time when the Portuguese had to pack what few personal belongings they could and make a dash across the desert and use a hurriedly built pontoon bridge to cross the Kunene into the safety of Namibia.

Shifting dunes

We reach the isolated, crumbling police outpost at Foz du Cunene. The cold Benguela Current flows northward along this coast, chilling the air above and producing the fog that is a lifesaver for the fauna and flora of this arid landscape. In the sand, we use a stick to write ‘Foz du Cunene’ and add the first sip-full of water from the Kunene River mouth to the expedition’s symbolic and well-travelled Zulu calabash, to mark the beginning of this Afrika Odyssey.

Kingsley and Leon grasp the Zulu calabash, used to collect symbolic water along the route

Then, it’s a dash up the coast, racing the incoming tide and an adrenalin rush as Ross Holgate, Kingsley’s son, leads us across the high, shifting dunes of the most ancient desert in the world. What an adventure!

We drop down a steep sand track to camp wild again on the banks of the Kunene, with the backdrop of a towering Namib Desert dune glowing red in the late afternoon light. Across the river is Namibia and the Skeleton Coast National Park, which, together with Iona, makes up 50,000km² of land dedicated to trans-frontier conservation.

Iona’s raw wilderness

And so, the adventure continues, following a long, single-track slowly zigzagging through dramatically beautiful scenery, Fairy Circles, said to be the largest on Earth and endless green blobs of Euphorbia virosa that survive in the ancient desert dunes of the Namib. The San people used the milky sap – highly toxic to humans – as an arrow poison for hunting, and the only animal able to stomach the plant were the black rhino that used to inhabit these areas. We see ostriches on the move and the occasional springbok, as Leon points out, on the oldest fossilised sand dunes in the world.

True raw wilderness: massive areas of no people, no mobile phone signal, no Wifi, no laptop, no distant car lights, no aircraft flying overhead… just starlit skies, mopane hardwood coals, the sparks disappearing into the night sky. Just us and these magnificent, primaeval landscapes and the ongoing journey below the rugged Serra Cafema Mountains with their zebra-stripe designs as we follow yet another remote track through the Marienfluss.

Further into our Iona journey, Leon shows us rhino “rubbing stones”, shining with age and patina. Some of them could also have been used by elephants and could be thousands of years old. One can imagine the rhinos of the past wandering up from the nearby river, rubbing ticks off their thick, tough skins on these ageless rubbing stones. We meet an elderly Soba (Himba chief), Mutili Mbendulu, who, at close to 100 years old, still remembers rhinos at the rubbing stones. Using his hands, he expertly describes what a rhino looks like with its two horns and snorting character and clearly remembers features of the big, grey-coloured elephants – how softly they walked on their large, padded feet, flapping imaginary ears and mimicking how they used their trunks. “And then they were all gone,” he says sadly. Victor Agostinho (Iona’s community officer) translates as Leon gently explains that one day, these great animals may return so that the Soba’s grandchildren can see them.

At the village of Kuroko in the buffer zone south of Iona, the local government administrator and staff endorse the expedition’s Scroll of Peace and Goodwill (which is signed with messages from well-wishers along the journey). We follow this with malaria educational work at the district hospital and outlying villages with the support of the Iona community leadership team. Malaria is rife in this area, so pregnant women, and moms with young children, receive long-lasting, insecticide-treated mosquito nets.

(Left) An ancient rhino rubbing post in Iona; (Right) 97-year-old Himba Chief Mutili Mbendulu places a handprint on the Scroll

Wild freedom in Iona

What we’ll all remember about this journey to Iona is the freedom of it all. Our last two nights were wild camping in a mopane grove, and at last light, the smell of freshly slaughtered goat meat being cooked down on the dry riverbed. We’ll remember Chicipissa, the Himba drummer and his yellow plastic container of Canjombe self-brew. We’ll remember the dance of the Himba ladies with red mud ringlets in their ornate hair, the gleam of their red-ochred bodies shining in the firelight and the twirls and the laughter of the girls who so value their traditions.

The Afrika Odyssey expedition also highlights ancient indigenous cultures

Then it’s a race to the border post at Ruacana to cross back into Namibia. Not an official in sight – just some Himba girls in full traditional dress. Finally, the friendly official arrives – down comes his exit stamp with a smile and a thud. And then, on the Namibian side, the rubber snake in the Defender glove box frightens the rather officious Customs official who, fortunately, once she had recovered, saw the fun of it all.

This expedition quest to Iona was a magnificent journey of hope for the future of Angola’s largest national park. Thank you and Muinto Obrigado to all involved in this exciting first chapter of an Odyssey to link all African Parks across the continent.

Ken’s handwritten note in the expedition’s Scroll of Peace and Goodwill for Conservation says it all:

“I would like to thank the Kingsley Holgate expedition team and African Parks for inviting me to participate in this historic expedition across the stunningly beautiful lands of southwestern Angola and the ancient Namib Desert. I have felt honoured to share in this quest for preserving and conserving wilderness lands, wildlife and ancient indigenous cultures and wisdom across 12 countries, 22 parks and over 22 million hectares of land under African Parks management. It is such a privilege to be able to contribute to the success of these efforts. All the Best!” – Kenneth D Wilcox

Members of the Afrika Odyssey expedition wild camp amongst dramatic sandstone cliffs

Bush note for adventurers

A visit to Iona is an excellent extension to a 4×4 overland adventure – especially if you’ve travelled up through Namibia and want to add a true feeling of wilderness to your journey. Angola should no longer be referred to as ‘war-torn’. It has shrugged off its past and is upbeat, optimistic and welcoming. In time, guides will be available to lead adventurers through the infamous Z gap and thrilling adventure stretching down the Namib desert. By visiting Iona, you will be helping to make a difference in resurrecting and conserving the area. Don’t delay – a great adventure awaits you!

Resources

Read about the return of Angolan giraffe to Iona National Park here.

Inspired to head out on your own African safari adventure? Check out these safari experiences here.

Trophy hunting in Botswana’s NG13: we follow the money

Post-publishing amendment (22 August 2023): After this post went live, we received the results of an audit of the Tcheku Community Trust, reflecting significant financial irregularities. The most serious involves the trophy hunter featured below. According to the audit report, the 2022 trophy hunting fee of US100,000 paid by the hunter was about half of the stipulated reserve price. The audit report reveals that the Trust general manager accepted the lower offer from the trophy hunter without the required approval of the Trust Board. This accounts partly for the extremely high gross profit made by the trophy hunter, as revealed below.

NG13 is a remote, largely unpopulated 2,907km² (290,000ha) region in northern Botswana zoned for multiple uses, including photographic tourism and trophy hunting. It shares its 100km northern border with Namibia’s Bwabwata National Park. Much of the boundary fence is broken, resulting in the free movement of wild animals.

This is where Botswana professional hunter Leon Kachelhoffer bagged one of Botswana’s largest elephants in a trophy hunt last year for his client – a giant of a beast and one of the dwindling population of tuskers (elephants with tusks weighing at least 100 pounds each) left in Africa. When we reported on the hunt, we questioned how beneficial this hunt was for local communities in desperate need of a sustainable livelihood. Now we have access to information and figures documenting the likely profit made by Kachelhoffer in 2022 and the scraps that go to local communities.

Trophy hunters — This tusker was killed in NG13 in 2022 by Leon Kachelhoffer and his client. The tusks weighed 201 pounds – making this one of a small and diminishing population of tuskers.

What are the benefits for local people of trophy hunting in NG13?

The people in and around NG13 are few and far between – they eke out a subsistence living from this sandy, arid landscape. The Tcheku Community Trust was established to represent them and to channel revenue from the commercial exploitation of the area via tourism and hunting.

The aforementioned Kachelhoffer has tied up the Tcheku Community Trust in a five-year deal that gives his company, Old Man’s Pan Pty Ltd, exclusive trophy hunting rights. The Botswana government allocates annual trophy hunting quotas to each region, and, in NG13’s case, they are obliged to sell those rights to Kachelhoffer. In 2022, Kachelhoffer paid Tcheku Community Trust the total sum of BWP 1,346,000 (+/- US$100,000) for that year’s quota. The quota included five elephants and two leopards, amongst other species. These are verified figures taken from the NG13 management plan, of which we have a copy.

What are the benefits for the NG13 trophy hunter?

The revenue assumptions per species hunt below are based on information provided by Botswana professional hunters.

Old Man’s Pan Pty Ltd
Trophy hunting NG13 income statement – 2022 estimate

REVENUE FROM NG 13 TROPHY HUNTING	5 elephants – US$ 75,000 each	US$375,000
	2 leopards – US$ 35,000 each	US$70,000
Total revenue (excluding minor species)		US$445,000
DIRECT COSTS
Payment to Tcheku Community Trust	BWP 1,346,000	– US$100,000
Government trophy tax	5 elephants at BWP 70,000 each	– US$26,000
	2 leopards at BWP 50,000 each	– US$7,500
Total costs		– US$133,500
Annual gross profit		US$311,500

Assuming that the quotas remain consistent, Kachelhoffer stands to pocket about US$1,6 million over five years. Add in the likely addition of lions in the future, and his revenue will skyrocket. Not bad off zero long-term or infrastructural investment, and when your only other material costs relate to attending hunting shows to market this and other trophy hunting areas. Note that this revenue estimate excludes what Kachelhoffer charges his clients for accommodation and other services, on which he will also likely earn a margin.

AS AN ASIDE, the surgical removal of Africa’s remaining giant tuskers makes no conservation sense

Current anecdotal estimates indicate that fewer than 100 tuskers remain in Africa (mostly in Kenya, which is free of trophy hunting), of which fewer than 30 are true giants, whose tusks touch the ground. Killing them has no impact on human-wildlife conflict, as these big bulls are not the culprits, and it does not solve Northern Botswana’s ‘elephant overpopulation problem’. NG13 lies within the KAZA Transfrontier Conservation Area, established to enable wildlife – especially elephants – to disperse away from human-wildlife conflict areas. So what is the conservation benefit of hunting the last remaining giant elephants? This is an important question that is unfortunately brushed aside by those who benefit financially and politically from removing the last giant elephants.

I also believe that setting leopard hunting quotas when leopard population estimates are vague at best and often non-existent is absurd and not scientific. Surely the term ‘sustainable utilisation’ cannot be applied when no reliable data exists?

For now, though, let’s ignore the glaring conservation issues and focus on the supposed benefits to local people of trophy hunting in NG13.

It’s clear from the analysis above that local communities receive a financial pittance for their resources. What about the rights, dignity and upliftment of NG13’s people? Menial seasonal jobs and a few servings of meat do not cut it, in my opinion. This is nothing more and nothing less than the plundering of local community resources by hardened wealthy businessmen.

Is this the true face of Botswana’s much-acclaimed ‘sustainable’ trophy hunting strategy? In May 2019, Botswana’s President Masisi justified the decision to recommence trophy hunting by emphasising that local communities will be guaranteed more than just menial jobs and enjoy sustainable wildlife management’s economic benefits. I have no conceptual issue with controlled, sustainable hunting based on sound scientific principles in areas where photo tourism fears to tread – because Africa’s people HAVE to be incentivised to have wild animals in their midst. Otherwise, we will end up like much of the ‘developed’ world – devoid of free-roaming wildlife. But is this how President Masisi envisaged involving impoverished, marginalised communities in the wildlife industry?

Why does the Botswana government allow its people to be taken for a ride and their natural resources to be plundered? What hold do Kachelhoffer and his cronies in the trophy hunting industry have over decision-makers at the local and government level? Why do local people sign these abusive binding contracts? So many questions. But we know that asking the perpetrators and trophy hunting representative bodies is a waste of time – they either ignore us, make legal threats, attack our integrity and/or provide nonsense spin.

To add further dimension to the situation, my sources inform me that some members of the Tcheku Community Trust are accusing its management of embezzling BWP 1.3 Million (about US$100,000) and have requested the District Commissioner to intervene with an audit to trace the missing funds.

I could go on about many aspects of this pillaging of African people and their resources, but I won’t. Hopefully, the abovementioned situation is sufficient to convince you that all is not well and that the decision-makers must step in and root out the rot.

A luta continua …

THIS WEEK

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Untamed Nkhotakota + intelligent giraffes + iconic Kenyan safaris

Every safari client has some form of experience in mind – be it a species, event or activity. Some will request a specific place like a national park – but usually because of the hoped-for experience. Of course an exceptional safari also includes those little golden moments we remember forever – like delicious pressed coffee in Kigali on the way to trek for gorillas and those heavenly snacks served with handcrafted gin slings during yet another stunning Botswana sunset. Crafting epic safaris is about knowing when and where to go, and with whom. A few weeks too early / late or a few kilometres off course and you could miss the greatest show on Earth. And wouldn’t that be a pity? We seldom receive requests to visit a specific lodge, for example, unless that lodge offers some unique experience. And so every hand-crafted package starts with an experience, and we add accommodation based on budget and luxury preference.

This brings me to answer the question I am often asked by long-standing safari clients. If there was one safari you would suggest RIGHT NOW, what would it be? My reply is this: Big 5, chimps and gorillas in one country. Here’s where and how!

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve in Malawi is a captivating land of miombo forests and rivers, teeming with elephants and thriving wildlife. Thanks to efforts by African Parks to revitalise this protected area, Nkhotakota is now an ideal destination for experiencing untamed Africa, away from traditional safari destinations. Read our first story below to help you plan your own adventure to Nkhotakota!

Giraffe are a source of fascination for naturalists and scientists, and a highlight on any African safari. In remarkable new research, scientists have uncovered the surprising fact that giraffes employ statistical reasoning, making strategic choices based on probability. Read our second story below to delve into the magnificent minds of these mesmerising mammals.

Finally, if you’re planning your next African adventure, Kenya is likely high on your list of possible destinations. Kenya is home to iconic favourites such as the Maasai Mara, Tsavo, Samburu and Lamu, and captures the essence of the traditional safari. Read our last post to discover all there is to know about your Kenyan safari.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/nkhotakota-wildlife-reserve/
NKHOTAKOTA, MALAWI
Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve is Malawi’s land of miombo forests, vast river networks, ample elephants and revitalised wildlife

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/towering-intellect-how-scientists-discovered-that-giraffe-can-use-statistical-reasoning/
TOWERING INTELLECT
Giraffe are an endless source of fascination for scientists. A new study reveals that giraffes are capable of statistical inference

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/travel/places/kenya
KENYAN SAFARI
Kenya embodies the essence of traditional safari, with ‘Out of Africa‘ nostalgia and a wide variety of things to see and do

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Immerse yourself in Malawi’s best national parks or start your true African experience with a stay on a private concession in Hwange. Chat to our safari experts to craft your authentic tailored safari.

Best of Malawi’s Safari Parks – 10 days / 9 nights – from US$4,115pps
The best-of-Malawi safari takes you to the Big Five havens of Majete Wildlife Reserve, Liwonde National Park and the rugged wilderness of Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve. Come and find out for yourself and make a real difference where it counts.

Stay at Bomani Tented Lodge, Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe
Bomani Tented Lodge is located on the vast and wildlife-rich Ngamo Plains in Hwange National Park. Book a four night stay & receive a free, one way, experiential transfer on the elephant express train. Get in touch for more info.

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Did you know that an almost pure white puppy has been born to a pack of wild dogs in the Kwando region of the Okavango Delta in Botswana? All baby animals are cute (to varying degrees), but this little creature is particularly enthralling. Keep scrolling to see the video of this unusual natural oddity tumbling about with its tiny siblings.

Its pale colouring can probably be attributed to a genetic quirk called “leucism”. The definition for this particular descriptor is fairly broad and encompasses several conditions that cause decreased pigment production in certain areas of the body. It is distinct from albinism, which affects only melanin production and results in white colouring with pale pink/red eyes. (You can read more about leucism, albinism and melanism here.)

The “leucism genes” in the wild dogs of the Okavango Delta have been floating around for generations, though generally somewhat diluted and manifesting as more “golden” individuals. A puppy as white as snow, so to speak, is a rare find indeed.

Supporting rangers

On our forum: This week saw people around the globe paying tribute to rangers on World Ranger Day, 31 July. Rangers play a critical role in conservation. They are custodians of our planet, and their work is crucial in ensuring that we make progress towards achieving global biodiversity targets. On our forum this week, Andrew Campbell from Game Rangers Association of Africa has penned a tribute to the world’s rangers:

“On World Ranger Day, we honour the memory of our fallen ranger colleagues around the globe, acknowledging their unwavering dedication. Our heartfelt tribute goes out to these brave rangers and their families, who have made immense sacrifices in safeguarding our natural world.”

Towering intellect? How scientists discovered that giraffe can use statistical reasoning

Giraffe are an endless source of fascination for scientists and a highlight on any African safari. In recent years, ground-breaking research has revealed the secrets of their complex physiology and unexpected nuances to their social structures. Now, a new study has uncovered another startling revelation: giraffes are capable of statistical inference.

The basis for the methodology of the study (conducted on zoo animals) was simple: in a giraffe’s world, zucchini pieces are okay, but carrot pieces are delicious. The animals were individually presented with two transparent tubs – one with many zucchini and a few carrot pieces and the other with more carrots than zucchini. The experimenter would simultaneously grab one piece from each tub (in view of the giraffe but without the giraffe being able to see what the piece was) and offer both hands to the giraffe. The giraffe then “selected” a hand by touching it and received its reward in the form of a zucchini (ugh!) or a carrot (yum!). Almost unfailingly, the giraffe chose the hand from a tub with a higher proportion of carrot pieces, thus increasing their chances of receiving a carrot.

The next question was whether the giraffe were actually using statistical inference or just comparing the absolute quantities of carrot in each tub. To rule out the latter, the amounts and proportions of carrot and zucchini pieces varied as the experiments continued. The giraffe continued to select the hand with a higher probability of containing a carrot, suggesting they could use the visual evidence of relative frequencies to draw a statistical conclusion. (You can watch a brief video of the various tests here.) The researchers also conducted the experiment without allowing the giraffe to see the tubs, as a control trial to ensure that the animals were not using their sense of smell to guide previous selections.

For a long time, the ability to use probabilities as a reasoning tool had been considered an adult human trait. However, studies in recent decades have shown that very young children (and possibly even infants) have the ability to a certain degree. Similarly, the ability to use statistical inference has been found in great apes, long-tailed macaques and keas (a parrot species found in New Zealand). But all these species have a large brain relative to body size, which led to the hypothesis that large brain size is necessary for complex statistical analysis. Giraffe have a relatively small brain size, so these results disprove this hypothesis. In fact, the authors suggest that such statistical inference might be far more widespread in the animal kingdom than we ever realised.

Either way, this study adds to a growing body of evidence suggesting that giraffe have complex cognitive abilities.

Reference

Caicoya, A. L., Colell, M. and Amici, F. (2023) “Giraffes Make Decisions Based on Statistical Information,” Scientific reports, 13(1), pp. 5558–5558

Further reading

The giraffe is a wonder of evolution and a vital part of Africa’s ecosystems. Read all there is to know about the planet’s tallest creature here.

Giraffe social structure is as complex as elephants’ – consisting of intricate communication, stable kinship and supportive mothering. Read more here.

Read about genetic research on giraffes that reveals evolutionary secrets of how they cope with high blood pressure and maintain bone density.

Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve

The matriarch pauses for a moment – trunk raised, head held high – before she takes the first steps into her new home. At the behest of her gentle rumbles, the rest of the herd follows, and, in a few short minutes, the elephants have melted into the woodlands of Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve. Where once these woodlands were at risk of falling silent forever, she and her family are there to breathe new life into the reserve. They are the emissaries of Malawi’s wildlife renaissance and the protagonists of Nkhotakota’s bright new chapter.

Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve

Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve is Malawi’s oldest and largest reserve and encompasses 1,800km² (180,000 hectares) of wild and rugged terrain. It extends east from the edge of the escarpment of the Great Rift Valley and stops just five kilometres short of the shoreline of Lake Malawi. From high in the mountains, rivers and streams plunge inexorably downwards towards the freshwater lake, cutting deep valleys and yawning caverns into the earth before reaching the plains below. In Nkhotakota, these waterways dissect the reserve, weaving through rough outcrops and rock-strewn ridges and bringing life to its inhabitants.

Dense but characterful miombo (Brachystegia) woodland covers most of the reserve, interspersed by dambos (shallow wetlands) and stands of lush grassland, which give way to the thick riverine forest along the rivers. Looming above it all, Chipata Mountain reaches an elevation of 1,614m, with a small patch of rainforest at its peak.

The reserve is surrounded by a substantial population of Malawi’s most impoverished residents. When it fell into neglect, the abuse of its natural resources was inevitable. Dwindling tourism meant there was little revenue available for reserve upkeep and security, creating a vicious cycle that led to charcoal burning, logging, and poaching. From an estimated 1,500 individuals, Nkhotakota’s elephant population numbered just 100 at the start of 2015.

But Malawi’s conservation journey in recent years has been a triumphant one, and Nkhotakota is just one of its successes. Today, the reserve offers the perfect escape for elephant and nature lovers– a rugged piece of Africa at her most raw and beautiful, removed from the indignities of mass commercial tourism.

Find out about Nkhotakota for your next African safari. We have ready-made safari ideas to choose from, or we can build one just for you.

The agents of success

The reserve’s revival can be attributed to a partnership between the non-profit organisation African Parks and Malawi’s Department of National Parks and Wildlife. Buoyed by the success of their work in Majete Wildlife Reserve, African Parks assumed managerial responsibility for both Liwonde National Park and Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve in 2015.

Their first task was to repair the relationship between the reserve and local communities while ensuring the safety of both. Thus, the erection of a fence around the reserve became a priority, and it was implemented immediately after careful consultation with relevant community stakeholders. Within the Nkhotakota area, a smaller sanctuary was established to manage initial restoration efforts. This inner sanctum has since been extended to cover more than 80,000 hectares of the reserve, including the Bua River.

Next came repairs to the reserve’s existing infrastructure and improvements to the road network, along with an overhaul of its law enforcement and anti-poaching efforts. With the help of community teams, law enforcement teams have collected hundreds of wire snares, filled in existing pit traps and confiscated several illegal firearms. Increased staffing and reserve coverage, improved training, and upgraded equipment have led to a 50% decline in criminal activity since 2015.

An estimated 100,000 impoverished people live within a few kilometres of the reserve’s boundaries, and for the first time in decades, they are beginning to benefit from their country’s heritage. In 2021, 215 scholarships were awarded to orphaned and vulnerable schoolchildren, and approximately 400 children are brought into the reserve each year for environmental education outings. Older community members are permitted to harvest park resources (such as palm fronds and wild fruits) in a sustainable manner under the Resource Use Programme, whose rules are implemented in consultation with local leaders. The Nkhotakota District Community was also established to discuss the reserve, conservation, and human-wildlife conflict, and to provide a platform for residents to air their views.

500 (ish) elephants

No two parks are the same, so management plans must adopt an adaptive and comprehensive long-term vision. With Liwonde and Nkhotakota, African Parks inherited two regions with vastly different challenges. Historically, Liwonde had supported a healthy population of elephants, and with increased park security, that population was proliferating and putting pressure on the park’s ecology. So too, in Majete, elephants were flourishing. But Malawi is a relatively small, densely populated country with limited opportunities for wildlife corridors and dispersal. Thus, the historic “500 Elephants” operation was conceived.

From July 2016 to August 2017, more than 520 elephants were translocated from Majete and Liwonde to Nkhotakota. Like proverbial ducks to water, the elephants quickly adapted to their new home. Even before the operation was complete, newborn elephant calves were taking their first stumbling steps in Nkhotakota. There are now well over 620 elephants in the reserve, filling the woodlands with the sounds of cracking branches and trumpeting once again.

And thousands more

Several thousand tonnes of transported pachyderm and a red-headed member of British royalty hogged the media limelight at the same time that 2,000 other animals, including sable antelope, eland, impala, buffalo, waterbuck, and warthog, made the journey to restore Nkhotakota’s wildlife.

Several canny but increasingly relaxed leopards have gradually revealed themselves to lucky guests. A camera-trap project recently confirmed the presence of roan antelope and honey badgers, which were previously believed locally extinct. For chiropterphiles (we know this is not a word, but there should be one for bat enthusiasts), Nkhotakota is the only place in Malawi where the lurid-orange rufous trident bat can be spotted. Naturally, the return of other iconic animals, such as the black rhino, lion, cheetah, and African wild dog (painted wolf), is a distinct possibility.

280 bird species have been recorded in the reserve, but this number is expected to increase dramatically with further exploration. For birders, discovering a previously unrecorded species must undoubtedly be an attractive prospect! As would the search for the Taita falcons, believed to be breeding along the escarpment.

A half-collared kingfisher perched above the river

Explore & stay

A charm can be found in Nkhotakota, which few wild spaces offer. Its austere beauty, tumbling rivers, and dappled paths offer an escape to a piece of untamed Africa far off the traditional safari track. With the hard work of African Parks and Malawi’s burgeoning popularity as a safari destination, there is little question that the reserve’s future is bright. To experience a part of that journey and to see and feel conservation in action around one in real time is undoubtedly a privilege.

While game drives are an essential part of the experience, walking on foot with expert guides is the best way to explore the untrammelled wilderness. For those feeling particularly energetic, it is also possible to hike up Chipata Mountain and breathe in the majesty of this unique reserve. At certain times of the year, it is possible to follow the path of the Bua River by canoe.

For all its wild feel, there are lodges in Nkhotakota on par with any high-end luxury lodges across the continent. These are discreetly hidden in the woodlands, enabling total immersion and an escape to nature. For those travelling on a tighter budget, there are campsites, and the reserve permits self-drives. Alternatively, Livezi Camp is a self-catering camp featuring four ensuite tented chalets (canvas and stone) that sleep 8-12 people in total (up to 3 per tent). The thatched central area – dining and kitchen – overlooks the non-perennial Livezi River.

Exploring the winding waterways of Nkhotakota is a wonderful way to experience the reserve.

The best time to visit is during the dry season, which runs from April to October, as the animals are drawn to available water. However, September and October can be sweltering and are best combined with a few days of cooling off in the waters of nearby Lake Malawi. The heavy rains from November until March can dampen activities, but the spectacular storms over the escarpment or the lake are breathtaking.

Check out this video on Nkhotakota:

Final thoughts

Of the many attractive attributes of Malawi’s Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve, its elephants are the true stars. Not only is their history a testament to the work and commitment required to protect Malawi’s wild spaces, but their presence is also symbolic of the triumphs to come.

THIS WEEK

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Nairobi National Park + captivating genets

I had a reality check a few days ago during a discussion with our scientific editor Jamie – about the introduction of Southeast African cheetahs to India to replace the locally extinct Asiatic cheetah. During teamAG discussions, I had expressed concern about swapping out different subspecies in the name of conservation. Surely that amounts to moving against nature’s long-term intention via evolutionary processes? My line was drawn in the sand. Then Jamie pointed out that the recent introduction of southern white rhino into Garamba National Park (DRC) to replace the extinct northern white rhino – which I supported – amounts to the same thing. Touché Jamie!

As an aside, you can use the search function on our website to access our vault of fascinating natural history articles and safari information going back many years. Oh, and it’s free of charge. Did you know that we have been around since 1991? What a journey!

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

The image of a lion bounding across the savannah juxtaposed against Nairobi’s cityscape may seem surreal. But this is exactly the sighting awaiting visitors to Nairobi National Park, directly pressed up against Kenya’s capital city. This park is no less wild than some of Kenya’s more renowned offerings. The park provokes a poignant metaphor of wildlife and man, and the effect is a safari experience unlike any other. Keen to visit this unique landscape, suspended at the interface of wilderness and civilisation? Read our first story below.

Most safari-goers have had the pleasure of encountering a genet while out on a game drive, or even back at camp, hanging out near humans to try to scavenge tasty morsels pinched from the dinner offering. While they are frequently spotted, genets are no less captivating. These solitary, cryptic animals are beautiful and graceful to behold. Read all about these cat-like carnivores in our second story.

In our last post, we delve into a rather novel way to experience the delights of Africa: the mobile safari. Can you see yourself returning from the day’s safari activities to a brand new destination every day? On a mobile tented safari, a seasoned support team will be there to pamper you and move your mobile tented camp from location to location while you are out there exploring. Read more about this authentic safari concept below.

Happy celebrating Africa!

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/nairobi-national-park/
NAIROBI NP
In the heart of Kenya’s capital, wilderness meets civilisation in Nairobi National Park

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/genets-of-africa/
GENETS OF AFRICA
Genets are cat-like carnivores of Africa, frequently spotted on safari

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/travel/experiences/mobile-safari
MOBILE SAFARI
Mobile tented safaris are an authentic way to travel across African landscapes

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Since Simon brought it up, did you know that the division of living things into species/subspecies is one of the most controversial points of contention across all ecological fields of study? Feathers have flown in ornithological circles, entomologists bug each other on the subject and don’t even get me started on microbiologists. Insults like “lumper” and “splitter” (possibly coined by a botanist colleague of Darwin) are bandied about without concern for hurt feelings.

Because the distinction between species and subspecies is complicated by so many factors: geographical isolation, differences in genetic sampling approaches, politics…Some scientists have even posited that one’s approach to the matter is influenced by individual personality.

However, it is a subject that poses some important philosophical questions about the conservation of large-mammal species. When we seek to protect subspecies, what is the priority? Their genetics, morphology, ecological role or simply their intrinsic value? Because that will influence the decisions we make on everything from translocations to making little inbred test-tube babies.

WATCH: Wish you were here? Make your African safari dreams a reality with us. Choose from our carefully curated safari packages or customise your own adventure with our travel team. Why wait? Start planning your perfect trip now! (00:58). Click here to watch

Black leopard pics + malaria-free safaris + finding lost species

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Safari report back – Botswana mobile safari

What do we know about the riverine rabbit?

Surveying sensitive species

Cameras, riverine rabbit conservation and wind farms

Roll on, riverine rabbit

Use it or lose it + mongoose violence & other stories

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Safari report back – Chitake Springs

Fragile lion kingdoms + South African safari

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Collar a lion

Paws for thought

The bigger picture

Where are the fragile lion populations?

Choosing which lions to save

References

Further reading

Elephants vs trees + Expedition Matusadona

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Client report-back – Zambia & Vic Falls

Zigzag to Matusadona

Resilience

Renaissance

The threats faced by trees: elephants and other agents

Protecting large trees: what & how?

Wire-netting to the rescue: a simple solution to a complex issue?

Questionable desert-adapted lion hunt + wild pigs

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

The warthogs (Phacochoerus africanus and Phacochoerus aeithiopicus)

The other wild pigs

The bushpig (Potamochoerus larvatus)

Red river hog (Potamochoerus porcus)

Giant forest hog (Hylochoerus meinertzhageni)

Eurasian wild pig/wild boar (Sus scrofa)

Facts & evidence:

About desert-adapted lions and the communities that share their landscape

Kruger rhino tally + salt pan archaeology + bad banks

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Collar a Lion campaign

Deadly electric fences + East vs Southern African safari

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Tanzania’s cheetahs + salt pans + hierarchy of fear

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Saving lions

Salt of the earth

Of twin parks and salt pans

Botswana’s great migrations

Survivors of the salt pans

Explore & stay at the salt pans

Hybrid elephants + Lake Manyara + prime-season Bots special

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Mega four-country safari

The world around Lake Manyara

Lions and elephants and baboons, oh my!

Flamingos and their feathered friends

Explore & stay in Lake Manyara

Final thoughts on Lake Manyara

You can save lions + are Kruger rhinos safe?

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Safari report-back: My bucket-list holiday

Cape Town’s mountains & adventures

Sand & sea

Cultural Cape Town: history & art

Urban vibes and gourmet meals

Cultivated Cape Town: gardens & vineyards

Take a tour

November safari sorted + down with vet fences?

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

“A powerful experience”

Why veterinary fences? A historical perspective

Negative impacts of veterinary fences

Veterinary fences are bad, but…

Looking to the future

Bringing the fences down

Rhino crisis averted + KAZA elephants + South Luangwa safari

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Epic Tuli photo safari

A new chapter?

**The warthogs (Phacochoerus africanus and Phacochoerus aeithiopicus)**

**The bushpig (Potamochoerus larvatus)**

**Red river hog (Potamochoerus porcus)**

**Giant forest hog (Hylochoerus meinertzhageni)**

**Eurasian wild pig/wild boar (*Sus scrofa***)

Safari report-back:
My bucket-list holiday