Dehorning rhinos is the only intervention that shows strong statistical evidence for reducing poaching
Protecting Africa’s rhinos is monumental and requires courage, persistence, creativity and extraordinary strength of character. No single strategy is sufficient against the scourge of poaching that has annihilated rhinos in their thousands, and conservationists have had to employ a multitude of different interventions in an attempt to stem the tide. However, every intervention comes at a cost: financial, personnel-related, ecological or otherwise. Understanding what interventions have worked and to what extent is essential in forging a path forward. This requires robust statistical analysis and managerial insight based on years of operational experience. A new report from the Greater Kruger region in South Africa offers just that.
South Africa is home to the majority of Africa’s rhinos, and the largest remaining wild population exists in the Kruger National Park and surrounding reserves. High poaching rates and the need for holistic and evidence-based thinking led to the creation of Project FIRE (Framework of Interventions for Effective Rhino Protection Evaluation), bringing together a cross-disciplinary team of reserve managers, ecologists, scientists, and other stakeholders. The collaborative efforts of data analysts, representatives of two state reserves (including the Kruger National Park) and nine private reserves have culminated in a 17-page report evaluating rhino conservation efforts from 2017 to 2021.
They identified and evaluated several intervention areas, including access control to the protected area, camera technologies, K9 units, integrity (polygraph) testing, dehorning, detection zones, air support, ranger training and equipment, rhino monitoring, fences and fence alarms. Evaluating these indices (which could encompass several variables) required identifying exactly how each was expected to help, how its success could be measured and the extent of its limitations. In this manner, the data could be quantified and fed into statistical models for analysis. Naturally, any statistical analysis needs to be interpreted within the context of the situation, particularly in one as complicated as the anti-poaching reality in the Greater Kruger. Thus, the “manager narrative” and insight played an integral role in compiling the final report.
[Editorial note: The authors elected not to include an executive summary of the report to encourage the reader to read the full report and appreciate the results’ complexity, context and nuance. Though we have provided a summary below, we would reiterate the suggestion to read the report to fully understand the intricacies of the issues at play.]
A minimum of ZAR 1.1 billion (USD 61 million) was spent protecting rhinos from 2017–2021, of which ZAR 660 million was spent in the Kruger National Park (USD 37 million). The most costly interventions in the Kruger National Park were access control, air support, security staff and specialised detection technology. Similarly, security was one of the most significant expenses for the other reserves, but fences (maintenance and upgrades) and ranger training and equipment also featured as substantial costs.
One of the report’s primary findings was that dehorning was the only intervention that showed strong statistical evidence for reducing poaching. As such, there is a strong statistical and logical case in favour of dehorning as an effective strategy. However, the authors emphasise that this does not imply that other measures were ineffective, but simply that evidence in their favour was inconclusive with the available data. Furthermore, many security measures, such as K9 teams and aerial support, successfully reacted to poaching incidents and captured poachers, which does not automatically translate to reduced poaching rates.
A dehorned rhino in Greater Kruger
A lack of variation within the data (as most reserves have implemented most interventions and thus cannot be compared to those without) reduced the statistical power of the analysis. Many interventions may be effective in principle without demonstrating any statistical association with poaching. Furthermore, corruption or internal involvement may result in the circumvention of otherwise effective measures. A reserve may have a high number of poacher arrests, but this will do little to deter future excursions if the criminal justice system (from law enforcement to the courts) does not work successfully to punish the crime, as evidenced by multiple repeat offenders.
The report’s conclusion offers several insights into anti-poaching interventions’ current status and the authors’ analysis results. In particular, it highlights that “most interventions do not directly address, and are at the mercy of, significant external factors such as socioeconomic inequality, entrenched criminal syndicates, corruption and horn demand”. In addition, many of the analysed interventions are reactive (detecting and arresting poachers), and the effectiveness of dehorning may relate in part to the fact that it is a proactive intervention. The report also acknowledges that implementation and competence vary widely across the study region. Poor implementation, rather than the intervention itself, may contribute to its lack of success. They explain that “[e]ffective operation management is essential…It requires strong leadership, strategic planning and the ability to make informed decisions in a dynamic, challenging and ever-changing environment”.
The report concludes with lessons for the future of the conservation of rhinos. The authors emphasise the power of shared learning and the importance of collaboration between scientists, academics and reserve managers. Perhaps the most encouraging words from the report are found in the foreword of the report, offering a message of hope from the custodians of our remaining rhinos: “We will succeed. The cause of protecting these magnificent creatures is too great, and the people dedicated to the cause are too dogged for any other outcome.”
Reference
Kuiper, T., Haussmann, S., Whitfield, S., Altwegg, R., Ferreira, S., Shaw, J., Polakow, D., Hofmeyr, M., Pierce, E., Nowak, I., Rowles, C., Zowitsky, H., Oliver, I., Boyd, W., Bird, J., Worth, E., van Tonder, M., Bourn, M., Greef, Z., Hartman, Z. (2023). Evaluating the cost and effectiveness of rhino conservation interventions in the Greater Kruger. A Greater Kruger Environmental Protection Foundation Report.
Further reading
– Missing the point: A new study suggests that dehorning can negatively impact the social behaviour of black rhinos. Read more here.
– The state of Africa’s rhino: Read our analysis of the IUCN report containing the most recent rhino numbers, trends, poaching incidents, conservation measures and trade updates.
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November safari sorted + down with vet fences?
With so many clients on safari right now, out there somewhere in this extraordinary continent, my mind turned to WHY we do this. We are not the ‘usual’ safari company – in that we invest significant resources into compiling stories about Africa.
Over sixteen million of you have read these stories in the last decade – stories that reflect the complexity and reality of life at ground level here in Africa. That’s 16m caring individuals from across the globe – our tribe – that have taken on board the science and considered opinions, and helped us spread the word.
Based on these stories and our reputation for designing authentic experience-based safaris, some of you choose us as your travel company when you visit Africa. That revenue powers us to go further, do more. THANK YOU.
We have a manifesto – our ikigai – that fuels us and provides direction whenever we are faced with a fork in the road. There have been many such moments since we began this wonderful journey 32 years ago. You can read our manifesto here.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Did you know that music can have similar effects on animals that it has on humans?
A beloved Kruger National Park camp recently hosted a popular annual classical music concert. A small social media storm broke out at the closing of the camp to host such an event. A wonderful setting for enjoying an orchestra, or harmful to the animals?
Well, as it turns out, classical music has a calming effect on a range of animals, including gorillas and dogs. It reduces aggression and increases sociability in chimpanzees. Cows soothed by classical music produce more milk. And birds’ brains react to music similarly to the way humans’ do. Crocodiles exposed to Bach’s Brandenburg Concertos in an MRI scanner were stimulated to produce similar brain patterns to those of birds and mammals (how did they get a crocodile into an MRI machine, you may ask?). Also pertinent to this question is that symphonic music peaks from about 120dB, but in an outdoor setting, there is likely a major drop off by the time it reaches animal ears. Researchers also question whether animals are stimulated by music because they find it appealing, or because the unfamiliar sound makes them want to flee. Food for thought the next time you are contemplating Baroque in the bush.
In more brain fodder for this week, Gail Thomson asks whether Namibia and Botswana should bring down their veterinary fences. We also explore the unique experiences you can expect when going on safari in November – so you can start planning now. See our stories below.
Whether on a guided photographic safari in the Maasai Mara, or exploring the plains of the Serengeti, we have offerings where you can safari in classic style in these tented camps. Take your pick or combine the two: our experts are ready to design your unique African safari.
Special offer – Book 5 nights and only pay 4 at Olmara Camp
Don’t miss your chance to enjoy this special offer and stay in a tented paradise on the eastern plains of Serengeti National Park, Tanzania. Olmara Camp is located at the crossroads of endless grassy plains and woodlands, in an area surrounded by meandering rivers and dramatic ancient granite kopjes. Offer valid until 23 December 2023
“A powerful experience”
This is how our travel client Tracy McLachlan described her back-to-back art safaris atKambaku Safari Lodgein Greater Kruger and Bush House in Madikwe Game Reserve. Thank you for the stellar review, Tracy!
“The attention to detail was incredible. Christian (AG safari expert) was thorough and responsive when arranging my two art safaris, as well as other accommodation. Everything was seamless and stress-free. All staff at Kambaku greeted me and other guests by name throughout my stay. They remembered my preferences and interests and seemed to anticipate my every need – making sure I was always comfortable.
Our guide, Gideon, and tracker, Eric, were such delights to be with. They were attentive, kind, and generous with their knowledge and time. They both had such lovely senses of humour. They understood what our safari group was trying to achieve and worked hard to ensure each guest had a good view for sketching wildlife. They were genuinely interested in what we were working on and shared their insights regarding the specific animals we were sketching. It was a very rich experience of viewing animals, and learning about them and the ecosystem. And we had incredible sketching opportunities.”
WATCH: Chitake Springs in Mana Pools National Park is a growing talking point amongst photographers for producing raw wildlife action. Here’s what happened when Villiers Steyn led an Africa Geographic photographic safari to this untamed Zimbabwean wilderness, known for its large lion prides and massive herds of buffalo (9:23). Click here to watch
If you have ever been on a road trip through Botswana or Namibia, you would likely have encountered a veterinary fence. A checkpoint comes into view at a seemingly random location along your route. When you stop, you are asked if you have any meat and told to walk through murky water. If you were carrying some meat for your next braai or barbeque, this is the last you will see of it. Each vet fence comprises two parallel fence lines that extend for thousands of kilometres. Veterinary fences were not erected to inconvenience tourists, but why is this necessary? The answer is complicated and not without controversy in both Namibia and Botswana. Gail Thomson asks if Namibia and Botswana should bring down their veterinary fences.
Botswana’s fences have caused the deaths of millions of animals, while Namibians living north of its fence see it as part of the legacy of apartheid. Despite the social and ecological ruptures they have caused, the fences remain. As you will soon discover, taking down these veterinary fences is about much more than dismantling thousands of kilometres of wire and wooden poles.
Why veterinary fences? A historical perspective
The Namibian fence is officially known as Veterinary Cordon Fence and unofficially as “the Red Line”, which is how it is depicted on maps. This 1,250km double fence line runs from the eastern border with Botswana, along the southern boundary of Etosha National Park and right through to the desert in the west.
The Red Line was initially developed as a concept rather than a physical fence as part of the German colonial government’s response to rinderpest in 1898. Starting in East Africa, rinderpest was a deadly disease introduced by cattle brought onto the African continent that wiped out over 90% of the cattle, buffalo and other antelope populations at the time. It also had a devastating effect on human populations due to the resulting starvation.
A series of police posts on the main roads were set up to prevent the movement of livestock from northern Namibia to southern Namibia along a line running east to west. Ultimately, these efforts were futile as rinderpest swept southwards through transmission between wild and domestic animals.
Despite its failure to control disease transmission, the Red Line was a useful political tool because it separated the southern part of Namibia that the Germans focused on colonising from the northern lands where they had less control. The area south of the fence became known as the Police Zone, i.e. the zone where colonising farmers could be ‘kept safe’ by the police.
When the South African government took charge of Namibia after World War I, they recognised the utility of the Red Line for political purposes and disease prevention. However, it was many years before a fence materialised from the concept. Instead, the Red Line was a 30–100km wide zone that was assumed to be free of livestock and most antelope due to a lack of natural surface water. The zone included the vast Etosha Pan and (at the time) its waterless surrounds. Strategically located police posts were used to prevent people from driving their livestock through the zone to access markets in the south.
An outbreak of Foot and Mouth Disease (FMD) in the 1960s finally created the impetus to turn the zone into a double fence line. Buffalo are primary carriers of FMD, which can be transmitted to cattle when they come into contact with each other. FMD can infect other antelope species (e.g. kudu) but these rarely transmit it to other species. Infected buffalo show few or no clinical signs of the disease, while cattle suffer from lesions in the mouth and feet that reduce their productivity (it is usually non-fatal for adult cattle).
Buffalo are primary carriers of Foot and Mouth Disease
The fence line and associated police posts further restricted human movement from north to south, which fitted well with the apartheid government’s intentions to keep the ‘black homelands’ in the north separate from ‘white farmlands’.
Botswana’s history as a British Protectorate rather than a colony means that its fences do not have the same colonial undertones. However, the whole purpose of their veterinary fences is to satisfy the European Union (EU) by controlling globally recognised transboundary animal diseases that could threaten European cattle farms. Most of these fences were erected after Botswana’s independence in 1966 and are far more extensive than Namibia’s Red Line.
The first fence to be erected (completed in 1958) was the Kuke fence running from the Namibian border, along the northern boundary of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR), then turning 90 degrees north towards the Okavango Delta. The Southern Buffalo Fence rings the Okavango Delta and meets the northern part of the Kuke fence. It was erected in 1982 to keep buffalo in the Delta and away from cattle farms, mainly to prevent FMD transmission.
The outbreak of Contagious Bovine Pleuropneumonia (CBPP), another recognised transboundary animal disease (infecting cattle but not African buffalo), prompted the construction of several more veterinary fences in the northern half of the country in 1995–1996. Due to the contagious nature of CBPP and its international trade significance, all cattle were slaughtered in Ngamiland (north-west Botswana) between 1995 and 1998. Two fences constructed at the time (the Setata and Nxai Pan fences) have since been removed. Altogether, Botswana’s many separate fences cover over 10,000 km.
Negative impacts of veterinary fences
While fences in Namibia caused some ecological disruption (hundreds of buffalo were shot south of the fence to prevent them from dying against the fence), the impact on Botswana’s wildlife was devastating. Millions of wildebeest and zebra died along the Kuke vet fence because it was inadvertently erected across their historical migration routes between the Kalahari and the Okavango Delta.
Besides the internal veterinary fences, the national boundary fences running between Namibia and Botswana cause severe disruption of wildlife movement in this central part of the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA). The initial construction of these fences coincided with significant declines in buffalo, tsessebe, roan and sable antelope in Namibia. Recent evidence from satellite collars on elephants reveals that family herd movements are restricted by fences, even though elephants frequently break the national boundary and vet fences.
Finding other ways of reducing disease transmission that do not include fences could open up international markets for meat and start to commercialise cattle farming
The impacts of vet fences in Namibia and Botswana have been both socio-economic and ecological. In both countries, farmers living on the ‘wrong side’ of the fence (i.e. where FMD and other diseases are considered endemic) have access to few markets for their meat. Although many of these farmers keep cattle for cultural purposes and rarely sell their cows, limited market access makes a shift towards more commercial farming practices even less likely.
The continued strict separation between buffalo and cattle creates an economic and conservation problem. As a game species, disease-free buffalo are highly valued and sold in neighbouring South Africa for high prices. Still, game farms in Namibia and Botswana are prevented from stocking buffalo for fear of disease transmission. This limits the potential for the wildlife economy in both countries to outcompete the livestock farming industry and prevents buffalo from recovering its historical range.
Disease-free buffalo are a valuable commodity, sold for high prices in South Africa
Finally, maintaining thousands of kilometres of double fences is a significant cost for both countries, although probably more so for Botswana. Elephants are constantly breaking the vet fences, allowing cattle to enter wildlife areas (e.g. the Okavango Delta) and mingle with buffalo. If these cattle are herded back out again, they could cause disease outbreaks affecting all livestock farmers in the country.
The symbolism of the Namibian Red Line as a means of oppression and separation cannot be ignored, although a detailed discussion of this is beyond the scope of this article.
Veterinary fences are bad, but…
Wildlife-proof fences can reduce human-wildlife conflict, whether erected for disease control or some other purpose. Fence breaks between Etosha National Park, the Okavango Delta and their surrounding farmlands often result in livestock or crop losses and subsequent killing of the wild animals involved.
One doesn’t need a crystal ball to predict what would happen if these fences were removed entirely. Cattle herders searching for better grazing in these protected areas would push further into them, where lions and other large carnivores would easily pick them off. Conversely, lions and other carnivores would expand their range into the adjacent farmlands and cause even more conflict than currently.
Finding other ways of reducing disease transmission that do not include fences could open up international markets for meat and start to commercialise cattle farming. While this could have positive implications regarding poverty alleviation, it may also intensify human-wildlife conflict by increasing the economic value of lost livestock. Both countries already struggle to provide sufficient payments for livestock losses due to human-wildlife conflict, even in places where livestock are not farmed commercially.
Finally, veterinary protocols in both countries that are associated with vet fences – e.g. livestock inspections and ear tags for tracing cattle ownership – maintain relatively high standards of disease control. If vet fences come down, such protocols could be relaxed or disregarded, leading to more disease outbreaks among livestock.
Many farmers in Namibia and Botswana keep cattle for cultural purposes
Looking to the future
If the negative impacts of vet fences generally outweigh the positives, why do these two independent African nations still maintain them? The short answer: to maintain access to the lucrative EU market for meat products.
The highest value market for livestock from both countries is the EU. If infected meat is imported into the EU, it is possible (though far from as likely as live animal imports) that FMD and other cattle diseases will infect European cattle. Consequently, if meat-exporting countries such as Namibia and Botswana cannot prove to the EU that their meat is not contaminated, they will be locked out of this lucrative market.
Therefore, solutions to the vet fence problem focus on reducing the likelihood of disease transmission to the point where it can be proven that meat from infected zones poses no threat to international markets. The first step in this direction is using an animal management system called Commodity-Based Trading (CBT) that combines livestock management, quarantine zones, and specific ways of slaughtering at abattoirs to reduce the chances of disease transmission to near zero.
This system is recognised by the international governing body World Organisation for Animal Health (WOAH, formerly OIE) which maintains standards for animal imports and exports to reduce the chances of disease transmission. However, the EU imposes stricter standards than those recommended by WOAH and thus is unlikely to accept meat produced through CBT methods.
A sudden increase in the supply of relatively cheap meat from Africa is seen as a threat to farmers within the EU, so this discussion goes beyond disease transmission and into the realm of politics. Until that changes, farmers may have to settle for using CBT to access markets within Africa and others outside of the EU, which are at least stronger than domestic markets in those zones.
The need for more intensive livestock management to implement CBT has a silver lining. If cattle must be herded and kept away from buffalo and other wildlife as much as possible (as per CBT guidelines), they will be better protected from predators. Better-managed cattle are also more productive, as young animals can be treated timeously when the herder notices they are ill. The Herding 4 Health programme in Botswana uses this approach to improve livestock health, open access to regional African markets, and reduce cattle losses to lions and other predators.
Commodity-Based Trading could reduce the chances of disease transmission amongst livestock to near zero
Bringing the fences down
Vet fences have been a constant presence in Botswana and Namibia for decades. The reasons for erecting and maintaining these fences go far beyond disease transmission. This means that any efforts to take these fences down must include, but not be limited to, technical fixes related to animal health. Political interventions, trade deals, and changing farmer and veterinary perceptions are essential. One must also consider the unintended negative consequences of taking fences down and have strategies in place to mitigate these wherever possible.
If Botswana and Namibia can navigate these uncharted waters successfully, bringing selected fences down could herald a new era for improving livelihoods, restoring wildlife migratory routes and further integrating the livestock and wildlife economy. Are these potential long-term benefits worth the extra effort and economic uncertainties? If so, we should seriously consider bringing at least some of the fences down.
Gail Thomson would like to thank Dr Mark Jago (Namibia) and Dr Mark Bing (Botswana) for their input into this article based on their veterinary expertise.
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Rhino crisis averted + KAZA elephants + South Luangwa safari
Just back from six days in Botswana’s Tuli Block with our 2023 Photographer of the Year winners. To say that we were blown away by the wildlife sightings and photographic opportunities is putting it mildly. Six different leopards in the first three days, lions everywhere and a relaxed cheetah mom with three cubs made for riveting days in this arid paradise. And a morning in a sunken photo hide that was so busy with comings and goings and epic photographic moments, we returned to the lodge elated and exhausted. Expect a gallery of outstanding photos in the months to come. Our featured image above is a brief hors d’oeuvre…
And what a wonderful group to spend time with! The fascinating discussions and hilarious banter set the tone and added layers of enjoyment to what was already an epic safari. Thanks to my teamAG travel experts for excellent planning and management of our safari and to Mashatu Botswana for hosting us at their superb lodges – and for the slick, effortless service and delicious food that catered for our diverse dietary requirements. Good times!
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
What do African penguins and the James Webb Space Telescope have in common?
African penguins may have feathers and wings, but they cannot fly. The James Webb Telescope has neither, yet it is flying through space at about 1,200km/h. Their inability to fly puts penguins at a distinct disadvantage to their flying seabird relatives, as they are unable to find food on the wing. Thank goodness then, that penguins have a strong sense of smell – which helps them detect prey at sea at up to 2km away. A study conducted off the coast of South Africa found that penguins find their prey by smelling the compound dimethyl sulphide, emitted by phytoplankton in prey patches.
It turns out that the James Webb Telescope, too, can detect the same compound – produced only by life – by analysing the chemical signature of molecules in light. Now, for the first time, the telescope has detected dimethyl sulphide out there – on a planet 120 light years from Earth. This is the most promising possibility of alien life found to date. The telescope has also detected carbon dioxide and methane on the planet – possible signs of a water ocean underneath a hydrogen-rich atmosphere. Could the planet be harbouring phytoplankton, or feathered creatures, like planet Earth? Only time will tell.
You may also be fascinated by our tale of a flower sexually deceiving a beetle into becoming its pollinator in our second story below. Or take some time out to dream of your travels through Africa, as we focus on Nyerere National Park, a rugged wilderness area in Tanzania. See our first story.
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Epic Tuli photo safari
Our 2023 Photographer of the Year winners are pictured here after a superb session in the Photo Mashatu underground hide. They enjoyed an epic Tuli Block (Botswana) safari, courtesy of our travel experts. Ask us to plan your next safari.
WATCH: Several of our safari experts view October as the best month for a safari in Africa. Click here to see why (2:00). With predators easy to spot at waterholes in southern Africa, fewer crowds at Mara River wildebeest crossings and warm weather at the beach, there are plenty of reasons to start planning an October safari now. Let us help you plan your next safari!
In today’s onslaught of media content, words like “unchanged” and “pristine” are bandied about with reckless and inaccurate abandon. Few of Africa’s remaining protected areas are either unchanged or pristine, and to describe them as such is to whitewash the stories of the continent’s resilience. In a time of tremendous change for the Selous Game Reserve, the declaration of Nyerere National Park will be an important chapter in the history of one of Africa’s greatest wilderness regions.
A new chapter?
In 2019, the now-deceased former president of Tanzania, John Magufuli, announced that the vast Selous Game Reserve would be split in two. The northern, southern, and western sides became the Nyerere National Park, while the eastern section remained the Selous Game Reserve. At 30,893 km2 (over three million hectares – more than twice the size of the Serengeti National Park), Nyerere National Park is the largest national park in East Africa. It protects a magnificent mosaic of Vachellia (Acacia) savannahs, grasslands, miombo woodlands, marshes and riverine forests, features which once justified the Selous Game Reserve’s inclusion as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
To the east, the park continues as the much-reduced Selous Game Reserve, which nevertheless encompasses some 20,155km2 (around two million hectares – the size of the Kruger National Park). Nyerere is also contiguous with Mikumi National Park in the northwestern corner, which, together with nearby Udzungwa National Park, helps to connect the greater Selous ecosystem to the Ruaha ecosystem in the west.
Nyerere National Park now extends over three sides of the Rufiji River valley, including such tributaries as the Beho Beho and Ruaha Rivers. The Rufiji River – the largest in Tanzania – dominates the landscape, plunging through Stiegler’s Gorge and eventually fanning out into an intricate network of channels, oxbow lakes and swamps. At the height of the rainy season, it transforms into an angry torrent of brown water that changes the face of the landscape each year. In the dry season, it supplies a never-ending parade of thirsty creatures of every shape and size, drawn to the water’s edge and offered welcome shade by towering Borassus palms. Its waterways define the Nyerere/Selous experience, with game drives taking place along the banks and boat safaris across the interconnected lakes – offering a unique African safari option.
The Rufiji River valley from above
What’s in a name?
Regarding photo tourism, Selous Game Reserve has typically been overshadowed by the northern Tanzanian safari circuit. In contrast to the latter, a Selous safari has always been considered a more rough and ready experience, better suited to experienced safari-goers with a taste for a rugged and authentic wilderness. The same principle applies to Nyerere National Park, though there are plans to increase the park’s tourism footprint.
Even before the creation of Nyerere, photo tourism organisations and lodges have always predominated in the region north of the Rufiji River system. The rest of the Selous was divided into hunting blocks, but this arrangement will no longer apply to those areas now included within the national park. Under Tanzanian law, national parks are afforded the highest levels of legal control over human activity and habitation and are managed by the Tanzanian National Parks Authority, TANAPA. According to government statements, the intention is to improve the road networks and general accessibility of the park and increase the number of camps and lodges.
Nyerere protects significant populations of elephant
The ‘Selous’ safari
There is no question that, as a safari destination, Nyerere National Park is brimming with untapped potential, but this is not to say that its pleasures are entirely unknown. Wildlife connoisseurs and Selous enthusiasts have long revelled in the opportunity to visit this forgotten corner of Africa, losing themselves to the sheer vastness of the wilderness. The scenic Rufiji River is always a highlight, but the hills, plains, dry riverbeds, marshes, forests and even the park’s hot spring ensure that every day is filled with variety and excitement.
Find out about Tanzania for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.
Safari spotting in Nyerere
Unsurprisingly, such a vast area of diverse habitats would support an impressive array of fauna and flora. The park is home to the Big 5 (though sightings of its black rhinos are rare), protecting significant populations of elephant, buffalo and lion, as well as many leopards – the Big 5. Spotted hyena, giraffe, zebra, eland, Coke’s hartebeest, waterbuck, and wildebeest are all present in healthy numbers in the park, and hippo and crocodiles are abundant in the permanent waterways. However, the region is most renowned for its substantial African wild dog (painted wolf) population, which may be one of the largest on the continent. Other rarities include large herds of sable antelope, puku and the delicate and shy suni.
The park is home to the Big 5, including leopard
Over 440 bird species have been recorded in the park, including a profusion of bee-eaters, a kaleidoscope of kingfishers, and a chatter of hornbills. Specials like the Udzungwa forest partridge, rufous-winged sunbird, Pel’s fishing owl and African skimmer are bound to enthral expert birders, and the plethora of great white pelicans, storks and herons occupying the lakes and rivers add delightful splashes of colour to an already picturesque scene.
Navigating Nyerere
In a place as vast and untamed as Nyerere, any visit should make the most of the opportunity to explore in every possible way. Indeed, game drives are an essential aspect of the experience. Yet one day spent in a vehicle could be followed by a morning’s boat safari and breakfast on a sandbar – surrounded by hippos and without another human being in sight. The terrain unequivocally lends itself to exploration on foot, in the company of an expert guide to expose and translate the natural marvels of the park. And for those looking for absolute immersion in nature, some lodges offer fly camping, with tents set up in the middle of the wilderness, with just a thin layer of canvas between their occupants and the creatures of the Nyerere night.
Nyerere’s dry riverbeds deliver epic sightings
Other attractions include the hot springs and the grave of Frederick Courteney Selous, the British explorer, officer, hunter and conservationist for whom the Selous Game Reserve was named. He was killed by a German sniper during World War I near the Beho Beho River.
Explore & stay in Nyerere
No matter the changes wrought over the next few years, it is doubtful that Nyerere will see the same number of tourists that flock to the north of the country every year. Instead, the park will likely retain the old Selous feeling of authentic, low-density, high-quality safaris centred around appreciating the surrounding wilderness. And while the scenery may be rugged, there is no shortage of luxury and ultra-luxury accommodation options – meaning that adventurous days end in the comfort of traditional East African hospitality. From rustic and simple to lamplit luxury, there are choices to suit most budgets.
Nyerere’s accommodation offerings have something to meet most budgets
The dry season from June until October offers the best wildlife viewing, as the vegetation is less dense, and animals are drawn to the banks of the Rufiji River. Much of the park becomes inaccessible at the height of the rainy season from around March to May. Tanzania’s second dry season, from mid-December until March, is also a good time for visiting birders looking to catch the incoming migrant species (and take advantage of low season rates).
Cruising the Rufiji River
An important adden‘dam’
Along its journey through the Selous to the Indian Ocean, the Rufiji River passes through Stiegler’s Gorge, once considered to be one of the main attractions in Selous, where the water plunges through a narrow ravine with walls 100 metres high. Here, former president Magufuli has commissioned the construction of Stiegler’s Gorge Hydropower Dam.
Despite the considerable outrage from environmentalists, construction began in 2020, and the dam is now apparently a fait accompli. Beset with challenges, the date of completion has been delayed to 2024. While the dam is set to cover just 2% of the Selous area, it will flood vital riverine forests and inevitably impact downstream habitats. Consequently, those wishing to experience the “old Selous” would be advised to book sooner rather than later.
Final thoughts on Nyerere
An ancient baobab stands sentinel on the plains below the Beho Beho Hills, squat and silent. Just over a hundred years ago, it would have witnessed World War I in Africa as bullets flew and nations clashed. Today, its presence serves as a poignant reminder that, while all things eventually pass, no wilderness is free from the scars of human folly. Nyerere National Park and Selous Game Reserve will soon be irrevocably changed, but the very essence of their wildness will endure. Elephants will still feed, dwarfed by towering palms, hippos will find their feet in new waterways, and fleet-footed wild dogs will bound across open plains. And adventurous souls will still find refuge in the raw and ancient beauty of ultimately untameable Nyerere. And what better way to end your Nyerere safari than a few days with your toes in the sand of the Spice Islands.
River-side walking safaris take travellers to the heart of the action
Deep in the heart of the fynbos of South Africa lives a rare orchid, Disa forficaria, which has a fascinating relationship with its pollinator, the longhorn beetle, Chorothyse hessei. From the title of this article, one might think it should come with a PG rating but rest assured – this is simply nature at work in her strange and wonderful ways. The story of how the relationship between Disa forficaria and the longhorn beetle was discovered is fascinating in itself.
Disa forficaria is an orchid species identified from only nine plants from 11 records in the past 200 years and was considered extinct until one plant was rediscovered in 2016. Secondly, this orchid flowers only once every two years. Thirdly, only one flower opens at a time, and usually only if the sun is shining. Lastly, its pollinators’ activity is tightly linked to the midday hours. Nevertheless, after many visits to the lone specimen of Disa forficaria, biologist Callan Cohen struck lucky. One sunny day he found that one of the orchid’s intricate flowers was in full bloom, and he was taking photographs of this rare beauty when he saw what he thought was a wasp landing on the lip of the flower. He watched in amazement when the wasp-like insect started to copulate with the flower.
This looked like a case of sexual deception. The flower was attracting pollinators to its blooms by mimicking a female insect. But to prove this, further investigation was needed, and so Cohen assembled a team of scientists, each a specialist in either pollination, entomology, orchids or chemistry. They started to piece the remarkable puzzle together.
The pollinator
The scientists established that the suspect was not a wasp but a wasp-mimicking endemic longhorn beetle, C. hessei, and so, after noting that the only insects that visited the orchid were individuals of the longhorn beetle, and only males, the scientists set out to discover what was attracting this beetle to this flower.
The flower
The flowers of the Disa forficaria don’t have any nectar or food rewards but instead sweeten the deal by providing a “boudoir” for the beetle-gentlemen. One could say that the flowers are “dressed up” to look and smell like female longhorn beetles. Orchid species generally have flowers with a modified median petal – the labellum – and, together with the two horizontal petals, the flower forms a landing platform for a visiting insect. The labellum of this particular orchid species is hairy and kidney-shaped and at its tip is a hairy cleft. At the other end of the lip are some narrow, hairy petals which curve backwards, have minute hairs, and resemble antennae.
The interaction between beetle and flower
So what is the motive for the beetle? The male longhorn beetle wants a female longhorn beetle. But the wool is pulled over the male longhorn beetle’s eyes. First, he gets the scent of a female beetle. He follows it, and on arriving at a flower of D. forficaria, he lands on the flower’s labellum and sees some fine, curved petal appendages. He begins to stroke these with his antennae and also even occasionally bites the petals (which is common mating behaviour described for other longhorn beetles). He then starts copulatory behaviour. The authors have even found beetle sperm in the petal’s cleft. So how does pollination occur? The beetle is similar in length to the flower’s lip, and this means that it is perfectly positioned, whilst in the act of releasing its sperm, for the pollen packages attached to its thorax (gathered from previous foraging trips) to be deposited onto the orchid’s stigma. The authors observed that flowers that had been pollinated by the beetle later developed into fruit, thus showing the success of the pollination “event”.
The longhorn beetle attempting to copulate with the orchid. Photograph courtesy Callan Cohen and www.birdingafrica.com
The scent of a woman-beetle
But how did the beetle find his flower lover? The authors observed that the beetles used typical odour-tracking foraging movements, which was a clue to what attracted them: the scent. They then obtained an extract from the flower and, using complicated and intensive experimentation, identified the volatile compound in the floral extract which could be involved in the attraction. They called this compound ‘disalactone’ and proceeded to synthesise more of it. After establishing that longhorn beetle antennae reacted to puffs of this scent in the laboratory, they took this “beetle perfume” into the field to test it.
To determine whether the compound attracted the longhorn beetle, they set out an array of open glass vials, some containing the disalactone and others just acetone (to act as a control). They found that the jars of the disalactone attracted C. hessei longhorn beetles, all of which were male. The control jars did not attract any beetles.
In the meantime, as all this analysis and experimentation was happening in the laboratories, the original orchid plant in the field had sadly disappeared. But the scientists proceeded to do field experiments near the original orchid plant. This time they got creative and made model flowers consisting of dark beads on a dry reed, with ‘‘antennae’’ of plastic-coated wire and a small tuft of hair approximating the hairy lip of the flower at one end of the model. Some of the model flowers were treated with a droplet of disalactone in acetone, and the others with pure acetone (controls). Lo and behold, male C. hessei beetles were attracted to the disalactonen flowers and “frenetically” copulated with them too.
From this, the authors deduced that these orchids were luring the males to their flowers with a particular scent, most likely a scent closely simulating female longhorn beetle pheromones. The shape of the fake flowers was important, too, in eliciting copulatory behaviour. This behaviour promotes the transfer of pollen from the beetle to the flower’s stigma, thus facilitating effective pollination. The case was solved: this orchid was sexually deceiving male longhorn beetles! Sexual deception of bees and wasps by plants has often been observed, but deceiving beetles is a relatively rare and unique phenomenon in the plant kingdom.
And more good news
The field experiment also yielded another exciting discovery. Some of the male beetles that visited their fake flowers were seen to be carrying pollen sacs. So the scientists took samples of the pollen and, using DNA analysis, the pollen was identified as belonging to the Disa forficaria species, meaning that, happily, there are still other D. forficaria plants in existence out there – somewhere. Indeed, we might even be able to find them if we can work out a way to use male longhorn beetles to survey for them. This type of surveying would be a world first!
The authors conclude that the orchid’s sexual deception might be the reason for the ongoing persistence of this orchid species, even at such low population sizes. The fidelity of the male beetles to their female beetle-mimicking flowers might enhance the transfer of pollen, thus achieving high pollination rates and fruit set. Therefore, ensuring the survival of one of the rarest orchids in the world. The wiles of the wild are fascinating indeed.
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Rhino crisis averted + KAZA elephants + South Luangwa safari
WOW! In one masterstroke African Parks has solved one particular rhino crisis, silenced the solution-bereft peanut gallery and proven yet again what a fine organisation they are. Yes, there will be challenges, but my goodness what a move! If you are not sure what I mean, scroll down. On that note, our exciting upcoming joint tourism project with African Parks to increase responsible international tourism to their parks – Ukuri – has one more hurdle to clear before we go live. The launch delays – related to regulatory matters – have been unfathomably frustrating. Both teams are chomping at the bit to get the show on the road. Stand by for more information 😉
As you read this I will be on safari in Botswana’s Tuli Block with our 2023 Photographer of the Year winners. Tuli is one of the most under-rated safari destinations in Southern Africa. I was last there about ten years ago and look forward to meeting our talented winners and reacquainting with the Land of the Giants.
Meanwhile, in my hood the knobthorns are bedecked in golden canopies whose sweet perfume floats in and out of my day unannounced. Temperatures are rising and the bushveld is cork dry. The dry season will peak in a couple of months before the hoped-for short rains of October-November usher in the green season. Life is good!
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
We celebrate every conservation victory that boosts the rhino population. In our first story below we mention that there are fewer than 13,000 southern white rhinos left. But did you know that Africa is also home to the world’s most endangered antelope – the hirola – whose population numbers pale in comparison to rhinos?
There are fewer than 400 hirolas left in the wild (and none in captivity) in the few areas they remain in Kenya, and possibly Somalia. Wiped out by rinderpest, civil war, and habitat loss, they have been dubbed a “refugee species” as they are restricted to less than 5% of their historical range. Those that remain owe their survival to a few local Kenyan communities who set up the Ishaqbini Hirola Conservancy, and to the Hirola Conservation Program. But predictions are there will be fewer than 20 hirolas left in the next 50 years. Food for thought.
Also check out our second story below, which delves into the state of elephants in the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation area – a population that represents more than half of the remaining African savannah elephants.
The McGrory family travelled with us to South Africa, visitingThe Commodore Hotelin Cape Town,Umlani Bush Campin Greater Kruger and more. They share their five-star safari experience:
“Christian (AG safari expert) organised a spectacular trip for us to South Africa on very short notice at a busy time of year. He did an amazing job of figuring out the best options for us. When our flight from the US was cancelled, he rearranged our days and managed to fit in almost all of the activities we had originally planned while minimising our stress.
Christian found safari lodges for us that were just the perfect vibe for our group, with an extremely knowledgeable guide who found us some unbelievable wildlife moments. In one safari lodge, we spent an afternoon by ourselves in a treehouse where we were extremely lucky to observe more than 30 elephants coming to drink at the waterhole. We managed to see leopards and wild dogs and even hyenas fighting over a dead buffalo after dark – and a lion kill as well. An absolutely unforgettable experience. We will be back!”
WATCH: Not for the faint hearted: A few months ago, video footage emerging from Mossel Bay, South Africa confirmed that orcas are capable of pursuing, capturing and incapacitating great white sharks – behaviour never before witnessed in such detail. This footage confirmed that the practice of orcas killing great white sharks was spreading – a trend that has far-ranging consequences for the sharks and the marine ecosystem. (3:08). Click here to watch
African Parks has just purchased the world’s largest rhino breeding operation – John Hume’s Platinum Rhino – to rescue and rewild the 2,000 southern white rhinos that, up until now, faced an uncertain future.
African Parks announced it would rewild the rhino over the next ten years to well-managed, secure protected areas across Africa. By establishing new populations and supplementing strategic populations, this move will significantly boost the future prospects of the species.
Rhino breeder Hume, who has been on the verge of bankruptcy for the past few years, made headlines earlier this year when he once again placed Platinum Rhino up for auction. The auction received no bids, putting these rhinos at risk of poaching and fragmentation. The 7,800-hectare captive-breeding rhino project, operating in the North West province of South Africa, has reportedly been tallying up a cost of $9,800 a day – an amount that Hume could no longer afford to pay.
After being approached by concerned members of the conservation fraternity about the potential crisis that awaited these rhinos, African Parks conducted due diligence and secured funding for the transaction. With the support of the South African government, African Parks agreed to purchase the farm and its rhinos.
The 2,000 rhinos represent up to 15% of the world’s remaining wild southern white rhino population (at less than 13,000 individuals), which is currently under extreme pressure due to poaching.
African Parks has extensive experience managing protected areas and conducting large-scale wildlife translocations. Over the years, the conservation NGO has brought rhinos back to Rwanda, Malawi and the Democratic Republic of Congo.
A southern white rhino cow and calf – two of the rhinos that will be rewilded within the next ten years
African Parks will phase out Platinum Rhino’s breeding programme, rewild the rhinos and bring the project to an end once all rewilding has occurred.
“African Parks had no intention of being the owner of a captive rhino breeding operation with 2,000 rhinos. However, we fully recognise the moral imperative of finding a solution for these animals so that they can once again play their integral role in fully functioning ecosystems,” said Peter Fearnhead, CEO of African Parks.
The South African government pledged support for the cause. Barbara Creecy, South African Minister of Forestry, Fisheries and Environment, said the government is “ready to support African Parks and other partners with technical and scientific advice in developing a conservation solution that includes translocating the animals over a period of time to suitable parks and community conservancies in South Africa and on the African continent.”
The Kavango-Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area has released the 2022 KAZA Elephant Survey results, revealing with cautious optimism that elephant populations within the region are stable.
The KAZA Transfrontier Conservation Area (TFCA) covers land in Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, and Zimbabwe. KAZA’s elephant population represents more than half of the remaining African savannah elephants on the continent.
The survey reveals an estimated elephant population of 227,900 in the KAZA TFCA – an increase of 10,000 from the population estimate made by the 2016 IUCN African Elephant Status Report. However, distinctly high elephant carcass ratios in certain areas may indicate high elephant mortality rates, highlighting the need for more investigation.
The survey revealed that Botswana hosts the highest number of elephants, with 131,909 elephants estimated to be present in the country during the survey. Across the KAZA TFCA, 58% of the elephants were found to be in Botswana, 29% in Zimbabwe, 9% in Namibia, and the remaining 4% were found in Zambia and Angola combined. Zambia is the only country showing a decline in elephant populations, with an estimated population of 3,840.
Elephant carcasses made up an estimated 10.47% of the total population – a cautionary signal of a possible negative population trend requiring further assessment. “Several factors are likely contributing to the somewhat elevated mortality we’re observing,” said Darren Potgieter, KAZA Elephant Survey coordinator. “Factors such as ageing populations, improved sampling methodologies, environmental conditions, and poaching could all be at play here.” Habitat loss and associated human-elephant conflict and disease were also cited as possible reasons for high mortality rates.
Fresh and recent carcasses (elephants that died in the 12 months prior to the survey) represented 0.51% (1,165 elephants) of the total estimate. The highest ratio of fresh and recent carcasses was observed in Botswana (962 carcasses – 0.72%). A concentration of fresh and recent carcasses were identified in the border region between Botswana and Namibia along the Kwando-Linyanti-Chobe River system. The Botswana Department of Wildlife and National Parks was informed of the high number of fresh carcasses seen during the survey, and an investigation into the cause of death is ongoing. Based on investigations, poaching has been ruled out, and the tusks on the carcasses were intact.
The survey also produced estimates for other species populations, such as buffalo, giraffe, wildebeest, and zebra. The number of livestock herds reflected a ratio of wildlife to domestic stock that was almost equal, highlighting growing pressures on water and rangelands.
The survey’s insight into human and livestock population distribution in relation to wildlife showed growing fragmentation and isolation of wildlife habitat. This fragmentation due to encroachment of human and livestock activity affects the connectivity and mobility of wildlife populations, making the ecosystem “vulnerable to disturbances and less able to adapt to changing climatic conditions”, said the report. There was also a trend of elephants being absent from regions heavily populated by humans and livestock. The survey revealed notably high pressure in the central Zambezi region of Namibia. This region, covering the Kwando and Zambezi-Chobe Wildlife Dispersal Areas, is critical for wildlife movement and migration.
The distribution of elephants showed a higher density of elephants near permanent water sources such as the Okavango and Chobe-Linyanti-Kwando River systems, as well as in parts of northwestern Matabeleland (Zimbabwe), where artificial water supplies are widely available in Hwange National Park.
Elephants in the Okavango Delta
Given the large survey area, several aircraft needed to be deployed simultaneously, requiring careful coordination. The survey was flown from August to October 2022 during the dry season when elephants could be seen more easily. The survey involved reconnaissance flights, ground support from logistics teams and various observers. 310,865km2 were sampled over 700 hours of flights. Using the CITES Monitoring the Illegal Killing of Elephants (MIKE) programme Aerial Survey Standards, the survey ensured rigorous quality assurance metrics.
In a joint communique, ministers from the KAZA TFCA pledged to translate the survey’s findings into practical policy measures and supportive legislation to ensure the long-term persistence of wildlife in the region.
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Hyenas in Maputo + dwarf mongoose + Namibian safari
Those of you that have been reading our stories for so many years will know that we focus on science and telling Africa’s stories from ground level. One way we do that is by decoding science – where we unpack peer-reviewed scientific findings and reword them so that you and I can understand and celebrate nature’s complexities and adaptive journey.
And there has been no-one better at doing this than Jamie Paterson, our scientific editor. Jamie, who is also studying to be a vet, has an eye for detail and a deep passion that goes way beyond anyone else I know. Her studies have reached that critical point where she will take a back seat from her teamAG duties. Her AG duties will be performed by others, but you will hear from Jamie now and then, just not as regularly. Thanks for sharing our journey so far Jamie, here’s to our ongoing friendship and your exciting future as a wildlife vet.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
“There is no time like Spring, when life’s alive in everything…” – Christina Rosetti
Today is Spring Day in Southern Africa, and after being frost-locked through winter, I could not be more relieved that hidden life is breaking through once again!
You will no doubt enjoy our two features this week, as they were penned by our dynamic Scientific Editor Jamie. And with Spring’s new beginning, we wish Jamie strength and good fortune on her new journey as she bids AG a subtle farewell.
Our first story below is the ultimate to-do list for Victoria Falls, which needs little by way of introduction. The perfect destination for adrenaline junkies, budget-conscious travellers, romancing couples and even for families, Vic Falls offers a smorgasbord of natural, cultural, and gastronomic delights. Check out our first story below to start planning your own adventure!
Our second story recognises the wonders of that graceful icon of the African safari: the kudu. As one of the more reliable sentinels in the bushveld and a picture of natural perfection in its own right, spotting a kudu is always a treat. Happy reading!
Story 2 https://africageographic.com/stories/kudu/
THE KUDU
Known for impressive spiral horns & doe-eyed, graceful countenance, the kudu is a fascinating antelope and an icon of the African safari
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
Our safari selections this week include a magic safari combo of Big 5 bushveld and beach life in Malawi, as well as a SUPER November special at an idyllic lodge in Zambia. Have a peak below and be inspired to book your next safari with us.
Malawi Big 5 bush & beach safari – 7 days / 6 nights – from US$3,170pps
Discover the Big 5, cheetahs and wild dogs of Majete Wildlife Reserve before unwinding on Lake Malawi’s tranquil shores. Seamlessly transition between these stunning locations, and experience the conservation success that is Majete, as well as the white sand beaches and water activities of one of Africa’s most popular great lakes.
I have always loved this time of year, even living in the Highveld, where the cold has yet to lift. With its cheerful birdsong, luminous greens and bright blossoms, Spring for me comes with a sigh of relief.
But today is bittersweet because, as Simon and Taryn have intimated, the time has come for me to focus on my studies. And to do that, I need to step back from my permanent duties as part of teamAG.
Given the number of articles I have written (nearly 300, I counted!), it seems strange that words should be failing me now, but I am struggling to do justice to the extraordinary company that is Africa Geographic. And, of course, its team of dedicated professionals. I shall be forever grateful for having had the opportunity to work alongside such incredible individuals, driven as they are by passion and integrity.
Likewise, it has been a profound privilege to share some of Africa’s majesty – triumphs and tragedies alike – with our dedicated subscribers, followers and travellers. Thank you for sharing in my passion (and tolerating my occasionally peculiar sense of humour!).
Fortunately, as Simon explained, this is not a permanent farewell, and the ongoing friendship will ensure that I shall always be able to call Africa Geographic home.
THANK YOU
A big THANK YOU to all those who donated to help pangolin poaching victims during our three-month Save a Pangolin campaign. Your donations will continue to cover the expenses of treatment, medical equipment, and rehabilitation, to give these pangolins a second chance at spending a long life in the wild. We are happy to report that since May, four pangolins who received treatment from Provet have successfully been rehabbed and released back into the wild, while four are still undergoing treatment and rehabilitation.
Please continue to lend your support and donate to this important cause. Africa’s pangolins and the dedicated teams saving them still need YOUR help!
Please note all pangolins are housed off-site at a secure location for security purposes.
WATCH: Longing to see gorillas in the wild? Come on safari with Africa Geographic and make your travel dreams a reality. Choose from our carefully curated safari packages or customise your own adventure with our travel team. Why wait? Start planning your perfect trip now! (0:56). Click here to watch
As the largest waterfall in the world, Victoria Falls needs little by way of introduction. Even to the uninitiated, the name conjures images of water thundering down into gorges, mist-soaked vistas, verdant vegetation, and adventure. The lively towns of Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwean side and Livingstone on the Zambian side are split down the middle by the Zambezi River at its most dramatic – the perfect escape for every traveller, from adrenaline junkies and budget-strapped students to families and romancing couples.
With a smorgasbord of natural, cultural, and gastronomic delights on offer and only a few days to enjoy them, deciding how best to spend one’s time can be something of a challenge! Have a look at our ultimate Victoria Falls to-do list to inspire your next itinerary. Then, check out all the info you need for planning your Victoria Falls safari here (including our ready-made packages).
Grab your camera and set out on a tour of mighty Victoria Falls
It should go without saying that the magnificent waterfall should be the first port of call for any visit to the region. Here the mighty Zambezi River gathers its strength and tumbles off a plateau nearly two kilometres wide before plunging into a series of dramatic gorges 100 metres below. The tours through the forests and to the best viewing points are conducted in the morning and afternoon to showcase this spectacle of Africa in the best light. With shimmering rainbows, clouds of thick spray and the thundering power of the water, touring the Falls is an all-encompassing sensory extravaganza.
There are a number of excellent viewing platforms for experiencing Victoria Falls
Soak in the magic of the sunset on a Zambezi Dinner Cruise
Upstream of the Falls, the Zambezi River is gentle and serene, offering the perfect balm for the soul after an action-packed day. Decompress as the ripples of the river shimmer beneath one of Africa’s blazing sunsets and give way to the romance of the moment, replete with good food, fine drink and excellent company.
Enjoy delicious snacks and sundowners while listening for the cry of the fish eagle in the fading sunlight hours
Tour Livingstone Island, enjoy breakfast or high tea and take a dip in Devil’s Pool
Livingstone Island is often touted as the point at which David Livingstone first set eyes upon Victoria Falls (though one must imagine the noise might have tipped him off beforehand) and is positioned at the very edge of the Falls. Follow in David’s footsteps to the island in the company of experienced guides before sitting down to a hearty breakfast or high tea. Thrill-seekers can also swim into a rock pool (Devil’s Pool) and perch with elbows dangling out over the drop below!
It is important to note that this activity is only offered during the low-water months from August to January and can only be accessed from the Zambian side of Victoria Falls.
Take a dip in hair-raising Devil’s Pool
Spot the Big 5 on a game drive
Zambezi National Park (Zimbabwe), Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park (Zambia) and Victoria Falls Private Game Reserve (Zimbabwe) all provide exceptional opportunities to encounter the Big 5, along with a variety of other species. Climb aboard an open four-wheel drive vehicle and see if you can spot one of the region’s elusive black rhinos!
Spot the Big Five in one of the protected areas near the Falls
Take in the fascinating story of Victoria Falls on the Historical Bridge Tour
Transport yourself back in time to when Cecil John Rhodes envisioned a railway running from Cape to Cairo and the geographical impediments blocking its path. Descend onto the catwalks below the Victoria Falls Bridge and consider the feats of engineering involved in its construction at the very start of the 20th century. The tongue-in-cheek guides will provide a light-hearted but detailed history of this remarkable structure.
The historical Victoria Falls Bridge
Adventure to nearby Chobe National Park for the day
Botswana’s Chobe National Park is a name imbued with the spirit of safari legend – a land of dramatic wildlife viewing and hundreds upon hundreds of elephants. Set out on a short drive from the Falls to the nearest border post, where a Botswana guide will collect you for the day’s activities. Enjoy a morning boat cruise on the lazy Chobe River, admiring the wildlife on the floodplains before enjoying lunch and an afternoon game drive.
Enjoy sundowners on the Chobe River
Plunge through the rapids of some of the best white water rafting in the world
The rapids below the falls are classified as Grade V, and nothing is quite as humbling as experiencing the sheer power of the water, armed with just a plastic oar and a lifejacket. The mighty river will propel you through a thrilling series of twists, turns, and heart-stopping drops, interspersed with stretches of calm where you can catch your breath and soak in the beauty of the towering gorges and verdant surrounds.
White water rafting is only guaranteed in August and September, though the season may vary depending on water levels.
Experience world-class white water rafting below the Falls
Immerse yourself in a gourmet experience at the Dusty Road Township Dining Experience
Situated deep in the heart of the bustling Chinotimba township, not far from Victoria Falls town centre, Dusty Road offers a vibrant dining experience unlike any other. Amidst rustic tables and flickering lanterns, indulge your tastebuds with a tantalizing array of flavours crafted from locally sourced ingredients.
Enjoy the tasty delights of the Dusty Road Township Experience
Chase that adrenaline rush on the flying fox/gorge swing/zipline/bungee jump
Victoria Falls is considered Africa’s adventure capital and is overflowing (literally?) with electrifying activities for thrill-seekers. The bungee jump off the iconic Victoria Falls Bridge is one of the world’s highest jumps. The gorge swing will pendulum you out over Batoka Gorge in an exhilarating zero-gravity experience. Intrepid travellers on the zipline (foefie slide) will reach speeds of over 100km/hr over the gorge, while those looking for a more sedate (but still vertigo-inducing) approach can opt for the flying fox.
The Gorge Swing is only for the brave
Embark on a journey through time (and enjoy a scrumptious meal) on the Steam Train
Climb aboard the luxury steam train at Victoria Falls station and let it transport you to a bygone era of splendour. The train will stop on the Victoria Falls Bridge just in time to watch the sunset in one of the most magical spots in Africa. Then it is time to sit down to a gourmet dinner as the train chuffs its way through the bushveld.
Experience the elegance of a steam train dinner
Take to the skies and admire the scenery of Victoria Falls from above on the ‘Flight of Angels’ helicopter trip
David Livingstone was so taken with the beauty of the Falls that he famously suggested that “scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight”, so how better to appreciate them than from the sky? The helicopters have cleverly designed bubble-shaped windows to enjoy the panoramic views over the falls and surrounds.
Enjoy a flip to experience an epic view of Victoria Falls
Keep on track on a Bicycle Tour along the Zambezi River
Cycle along the Batoka Gorge, stopping every now and again to take in the breath-taking views before encountering the world-famous Big Tree (a massive baobab believed to be 3,500 years old) and cycle across the Victoria Falls Bridge, all in the company of an expert guide.
Dine out on the world-famous experience at The Boma
The Boma restaurant is about more than ordering dinner; it is a complete Zimbabwean cultural experience. Join the hand-washing ceremony before sampling the traditional beer to whet the appetite before dinner. During the varied meal of everything from venison to mopane worms, Tsonga dancers, storytellers and entertainers will hold the floor. Then take to the dance floor and show off your newly-mastered dance moves!
Enjoy the electric atmosphere while dining at The Boma
Saddle up and canter out into the wilderness on horseback (all experience levels are catered for!)
Exploring the wilderness on horseback is a unique experience, not least because the wild animals do not perceive the horses as a threat, allowing for unusually close encounters with otherwise shy ungulates such as kudu or impala. Spend the day tracking elephants and buffaloes in the deep shade of the Zambezi River’s riverine forests and perhaps even stop for a brief siesta during the day’s hottest hours.
Horse ride through this beautiful corner of Africa
Clip on a harness and swing out on a Canopy Tour
With a network of nine slides over the gorges, trails and a ropeway bridge through the hardwood forests, the Victoria Falls canopy tour offers some of the area’s best views. Furthermore, this experience is open to adventure-seekers of all ages, including families and groups.
Ziplining provides a whole new perspective on the Falls
Go curio and craft shopping and find the perfect souvenir from the perfect Victoria Falls holiday
Enthusiastic shoppers will find their senses overwhelmed on this daily tour of open-air markets, crochet halls, galleries and boutique stores selling handcrafted works of art. Admire the stone sculptures, wooden carvings, textiles, jewellery and crochet lovingly created by local artisans and pick out gifts for loved ones back home.
There are so many curios to choose from when shopping in and around Victoria Falls
Now that you are armed with our ultimate Victoria Falls to-do list, it’s time to start planning your holiday! Contact our travel experts to explore one of the world’s most incredible natural marvels.
If cliches are to be believed, then beauty is in the eye of the beholder – a subjective standard upon which there can be no universal agreement. Yet of Africa’s over 70 antelope species, there can be no question that some are more bewitching than others. There are the stately eland and the glamorous sable, the burnished nyala and the beguiling impala. And then there is the kudu, the doe-eyed epitome of grace and elegance, all slender legs and eyes and a magnificent set of horns.
There are no beauty competitions in the wilderness (thank goodness), but if there were, the kudu would unequivocally be a shoo-in for one of the top spots.
All about the kudus (kudos?)
There are two species of kudu – the greater kudu (Tragelaphus strepsiceros) and the lesser kudu (Tragelaphus imberbis). Though humans could probably have done a better job with the common names (“lesser” is a bit pejorative, is it not?), the monikers accurately capture the size difference between the two. The greater kudu – an icon of the African safari – is substantially taller and heavier than its comparatively petite cousin. Lesser kudu also have a smaller distribution and are found only in East Africa, with a preference for semi-arid habitats. Greater kudu occur more widely across much of the continent, including most of southern and East Africa and just south of the Sahel in Central Africa.
Size aside, the morphological differences between the two species are subtle. The males are similarly equipped with an impressive pair of spiralling horns (more on these below), and sexual dimorphism is pronounced. Both species are decorated with a strip of white on the back, which bleeds into a delicate pattern of stripes running down the flank like dripping paint. White chevrons run from the inside of the eyes, contrasting against the rufous coat. Male greater kudu have a well-developed ridge of hair that runs down the length of the neck like an upside-down mohawk. This feature is absent in the lesser kudu, which instead has a striking set of black and white bands.
Both species are cryptic antelope with a preference for dense vegetation. They are not fast and rely instead on their agility and spectacular jumping prowess to escape potential predators, jinking and jiving through the trees when pursued. Kudu are relatively strict browsers (though greater kudu have been observed grazing) and can survive for long periods without drinking, supplementing their water intake with succulents and fruits.
Kudu can effortlessly leap two and a half metres into the air
Quick facts about the kudu
Greater kudu
Lesser kudu
Av. Height (shoulder)
M: 135-160cm
F: 121 cm
M: 95-105 cm
F: 90-100 cm
Av. Mass
M: 190-270kg
F: 120-210 kg
M: 90-108 kg
F: 56-70 kg
Gestation period
240 days (8 months)
Between 7 and 8 months
IUCN Red List
Least Concern
Near Threatened
To a greater or lesser extent
It is no secret that our understanding of antelope phylogeny is not dissimilar to a tangled ball of wool at present – based on physical similarities and occasionally inaccurate assumptions. Scientists are using genetic tools to disentangle the mess and have made considerable strides towards understanding evolutionary relationships. However, a great deal of work is still to be done. Kudu belong to the Tragelaphini – the spiral-horned antelope tribe, which includes nine different species in two genera (for now). Thus, they are related to eland, nyala, bushbuck, sitatunga and the bongo. The closest relatives to this tribe are bovines, such as buffalos, bison, and wild cattle.
The natural assumption would be that the greater and lesser kudu would be more closely related to each other than any other member of the Tragelaphini tribe, but, fascinatingly, this does not seem to be the case. A comprehensive analysis conducted in 2005 of mitochondrial DNA suggested that the lesser kudu is the basal member of the tribe. Even more confusingly, later research on nuclear DNA indicated that lesser kudu and nyala separated from the rest of the Tragelaphini at least 13 million years ago. Either way that means that, bizarrely, the lesser kudu is more closely related to the nyala, and the greater kudu is more closely related to the mountain nyala. The distance between the lesser kudu and the rest of the Tragelaphini tribe has even prompted some scientists to argue that it represents an entirely different genus – the Ammelaphus.
As if the hairs could not be split any finer, next comes the subspecies question. There are currently three commonly accepted subspecies of greater kudu:
s. strepsiceros – occurs over much of southern Africa
s. chora – found in northeastern Africa, in northern Kenya, Ethiopia, Somalia, Eritrea and eastern Sudan
s. cottoni – found in scattered populations in Chad and western Sudan
None of these subspecies has yet been recognised on the IUCN Red List. Some biologists have even proposed splitting the greater kudu into four different species (!) based on genetic evidence and morphological differences. But we may have to cross that bridge when it becomes more widely accepted…
Greater kudu (left) and lesser kudu (right)
Spiralling out
At this juncture, moving swiftly along from the minutiae of kudu taxonomy to some of their more apparent features seems appropriate. Naturally, the impressive spiral horns of the bulls tend to leave a lasting impression on first-time visitors to Africa, making them a delightful spot on any safari. (Check out these safaris where you can spot kudu and more). In greater kudu, these bony protuberances can achieve two and a half or even three full twists and, if straightened, would reach over a metre in length. Record-breaking specimens have been measured at over 180cm.
Male kudus darken with age, and the rufous coat becomes greyer in colour
The bulls use these horns primarily as an intimidation tactic. Kudu are gregarious and not territorial, but competition may arise over a female in oestrus (receptive to mating). However, actual physical confrontations are rare, and the larger, more dominant bull usually frightens away potential competitors by displaying his full size. Evenly matched contenders may clash horns, sometimes with fatal consequences. Though such reports are sporadic, kudu bulls have been known to tangle their twisting horns so severely that they find themselves locked together and may eventually die of dehydration, a broken neck or predation.
Like the stag of Aesop’s Fables, these magnificent horns have disadvantages, especially for an animal that usually runs through dense vegetation to escape predators. When fleeing, the bulls occasionally stretch their heads forward and tilt the horns flat along their necks, making navigation challenging. (There is a common old guide’s tale that they can roll their eyes back and look back at the pursuing predator through the hollow horn – it should not need to be clarified that this is physically impossible. The horn is solid bone.) It does not, however, seem to hinder them unduly!
Kudu bulls may clash horns over females in oestrus
The sense and sensibility of the kudu
The enormous satellite-dish ears of the kudu are another notable feature contributing to their other-worldly, innocent beauty. Fairly obviously, these exaggerated auricles are essential in catching and amplifying sound waves, conferring an exceptional sense of hearing. The kudu’s excellent aural faculties and equally acute eyesight make them one of the more reliable sentinels in the bushveld. When a kudu spots a potential predator, it lets loose an astonishingly loud alarm bark that can travel several kilometres on a cold morning. Many a desperate guide following this booming sound has found themselves well rewarded with a leopard or lion sighting courtesy of a vigilant kudu.
Kudus let out loud alarm barks when alerted to the presence of predators
Even without the bonus of a big cat, any aesthete should appreciate the opportunity to feast their eyes upon the picture of natural perfection that is the kudu. They are shy animals and not always confiding around vehicles full of loud, gawking onlookers, but most will allow for a brief sighting if approached carefully. Kudu-seekers will generally find greater kudus without difficulty on most popular safari tracks. Lesser kudus can be a bit more tricky, but the arid areas of southern Kenya and northern Tanzania are an excellent place to start.
Want to see greater and lesser kudu in the wild? Get in touch with our travel team to discuss your kudu-seeking safari – details below this story.
After this post went live, we received the results of an audit of the Tcheku Community Trust, reflecting significant financial irregularities. The most serious involves the trophy hunter featured in our exposé. According to the audit report, the 2022 trophy hunting fee of US$100,000 paid by the hunter was about half of the stipulated reserve price. The audit report reveals that the Trust general manager accepted the lower offer from the trophy hunter without the required approval of the Trust Board. One wonders why he would do that. No wonder the trophy hunter’s gross profit we reported is so obscenely high!
The discussions in our app reveal a few pro-hunters attempting to whitewash this situation. One gent accused me/AG of a “hit job on the hunting industry ameteurshly (sic) disguised as a social injustice crusade“. The argument put forward by another is that this is the only alternative to no revenue at all. My my, what low standards the trophy hunting industry demands we all accept.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Every species has a part to play in its ecosystem. Hyenas, though often mistaken for the underdog, keep natural checks and balances in place between dead matter, plant life, prey and predators. So when an important ecosystem engineer like the hyena is absent, a tipping point looms. Aspiring to this bigger picture, Maputo National Park in Mozambique has released five hyenas into its system to recalibrate the balance – scoring a rewilding win for southern Africa. Read more in our first story.
And from one fearsome predator to the next: In our second story, we honour one of Africa’s most ferocious and courageous fighters: the dwarf mongoose. With razor-sharp claws and sharp teeth juxtaposed with an otherwise adorable fluffy exterior, the dwarf mongoose is Africa’s smallest mammalian predator. Read more to see what we love about these enigmatic little creatures.
Let us take you on an adventure to experience all Namibia has to offer or go in search of the Big 5 in Greater Kruger. Let us make your safari wishes a reality:
What does it take to keep a wild rhino alive in South Africa? There is no short or easy answer to that question. There may not even be a right one. The custodians of our beloved tubby grey icons have been thrust into an ever-changing war without rules, forced to trial and evaluate different strategies as they go along.
Compiled by a cross-disciplinary team of scientists and reserve managers, the 17-page report delves into the successes and failures of various interventions, including camera technologies, K9 units, dehorning and so on. This monumental project is of profound importance and offers an eye-opening glimpse into the complexities of rhino conservation. It is well worth a read!
Wonderful safari experience to South Africa & Zimbabwe
The Siskind family had a wonderful experience travelling with us to Pungwe Safari Camp in Greater Kruger, South Africa and to Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge bordering Gonarezhou National Park, Zimbabwe. They had spectacular wildlife encounters in both countries and also had multiple wild dog sightings. Their plains game and elephant sightings were just as plentiful. Michael Siskind shares feedback on the experience:
“Africa Geographic was able to tailor our trip to what we wanted: a small unpretentious bush camp in the greater Kruger, where wildlife sightings are perhaps easier to come by, coupled with the wilderness experience of the far more remote Gonarezhou. AG succeeded on all accounts. Our week in Gonarezhou was essentially our own private expedition into the park. Due to the logistics of the trip, its success was dependent on the smooth functioning of multiple transfers, both vehicle and plane. The trip was very well organised and all transfers took place without a hitch. We look forward to planning another trip with AG!”
WATCH: Watch as two of Africa’s biggest and heaviest animals go head to head in a very rarely seen sighting. The hippo is trying his luck with the rhinos, but the rhinos are having none of it (2:44). Click here to watch
Fearsome predators are stalking the savannahs of Africa. With pointed, gleaming teeth and razor-sharp claws, they roam in packs and instil fear into the heart of their prey. They are ferocious fighters, capable of taking on deadly enemies through lightning-fast reflexes and almost reckless courage. They are dwarf mongoose, and each one is roughly the size and weight of a soda can.
Pint-sized predators
Africa’s smallest mammalian predator – the dwarf mongoose (Helogale species) – is an animal that is remarkably easy to anthropomorphise. Something in their beady, shining eyes speaks to considerable intelligence and personality, wrapped in an adorable, fluffy package. They are found from Ethiopia and Somalia to the northeastern corner of South Africa. Dwarf mongoose are a common sight on safari, though often dismissed in favour of the bigger and “more exciting” animals (to find the ideal African safari and spot dwarf mongooses in the wild, click here). Yet a bit of patience guarantees a rewarding sighting in their charming company.
Dwarf mongooses belong to the Herpestidae family, comprising over thirty mongoose species (including suricates/meerkats) spread across Europe, Africa, and Asia. Unbeknownst to most, there are two species of dwarf mongoose: the common dwarf mongoose (Helogale parvula) and the overlapping Ethiopian dwarf mongoose (Helogale hirtula). Though mongooses are famously charismatic animals, a considerable facet of dwarf mongoose appeal is their sociality. Like the banded mongoose and meerkat, dwarf mongoose live, reproduce and forage in cooperative groups.
These groups number between three to thirty individuals, where everything from territorial defence to raising pups is a team affair. A consequence of this collective approach to life is a complex social structure and hierarchy governed by fascinating community rules and peppered with surprising nuances.
Dwarf mongoose operate in cooperative groups with complex social structures
Quick dwarf mongoose facts
Length
18-30cm
Mass
210-350 grams
Social structure
Groups of up to thirty
Gestation
49-53 days
IUCN Red List classification
Least Concern
Dwarf mongoose: tiny terrors of the bush
During the day, dwarf mongoose move through the vegetation in search of predominantly insect prey (but will also feed on reptiles, small mammals and birds). However, standing just a few centimetres off the ground makes it almost impossible to maintain visual contact, and thus vocal communication is of tremendous importance in dwarf mongoose societies. They chatter almost constantly to each other via a series of contact squeaks. Threats are communicated through a multitude of alarm calls, which convey not only the type of threat (bird, snake, and so on) but also the urgency. Some calls will make the entire group stop and look around, while others will send them scurrying for the nearest cover.
Fierce though the little animals may be, they are still on the menu for various birds of prey, mammalian predators and snakes. Like most members of the mongoose family, dwarf mongoose have some innate resistance to snake venom, but contrary to popular belief, this does not confer complete immunity.
They may be Africa’s smallest mammalian predator, but dwarf mongoose are incredibly fierce
Miniature monarchs
A dominant pair lead dwarf-mongoose groups, usually consisting of the oldest male and female. These pocket-sized patricians are the only ones guaranteed to reproduce, while the rest of the group (composed of related and unrelated individuals) focuses on protecting the pups each season. This can entail everything from babysitting and guarding the den to providing food and teaching the pups valuable hunting skills. Like meerkats, some subordinate females (around 12%) mate and fall pregnant, but these offspring are usually either aborted or killed by the dominant female. The reproductive cycles of all group females are highly synchronised, meaning that they enter oestrus within days of each other. Consequently, subordinate females may further contribute by lactating and suckling the dominant pair’s pups.
Naturally, the drive to reproduce is a biological imperative. So, subordinate mongooses are left with two options: wait their turn for a shot at the top position or disperse and find another group with better prospects. In dwarf mongooses, both males and females disperse, though males are more likely to do so.
A dwarf mongoose relaxes in the sand in the Okavango Delta
Playful pups, hungry hornbills (and viral videos)
Pups are born during the rainy season when insect prey is abundant and prosperous groups may raise several successive litters of four to six pups yearly. The minuscule pups are born into a dangerous world, and even the relative security of their termite mound dens does not guarantee their safety. Snakes represent a constant threat to young babies, so den-bound young are left with babysitters. At the same time, the rest of the group forages. If a snake is spotted, these babysitters will sound the alarm and even mob and distract the offending reptile while the pups are transported to safety.
Den-bound pups are left with babysitters
When the pups emerge from the den, their world is filled with things to explore and lessons to learn. With the energy intrinsic to the young of all mammals, they immediately engage in nibbling, wrestling, begging for food and, hilariously, scent-marking. The latter is particularly entertaining because dwarf mongoose have scent glands positioned under the tail, and the secretions are deposited as high above the ground as possible (conveniently at nose level for the receiver). Given their rather stubby legs, this contortion involves a handstand accompanied by an impressive wiggle. For uncoordinated, growing pups, it is a movement that is particularly difficult to master.
Another important lesson for dwarf mongoose pups is good relations with their neighbours. Dwarf mongooses have a particularly fascinating mutualistic relationship with hornbills. The hornbills can scoop up the insects disturbed by the foraging mongooses while providing additional security through watchful eyes at a higher vantage point. This association is so beneficial to both parties that they will await the arrival of the other before setting out for the day. However, in one now-viral incident, a baby mongoose was recorded inviting the hornbill to play with it by “pretending to be dead“.
Sentinels, signals, and snubbing
In addition to pup rearing, dwarf mongoose engage in several other cooperative behaviours, including acting as sentinels and allogrooming. Through observing these behaviours, scientists have gleaned a wealth of information about the subtleties of dwarf mongoose ethology. For example, serving as the group’s lookout is a particularly revealing behaviour as it comes at some cost to the individual in the form of lost foraging and feeding opportunities. It also requires considerable trust because, although the rest of the group remains alert, a dozy sentry could spell death from above or below. Research has shown that new arrivals (immigrants) are considered less “trustworthy” as sentinels for up to five months until they have earned the group’s trust. Conversely, the male and female of the dominant pair appear to be regarded as the most reliable sentinels.
Sentinels are rewarded with allogrooming for their time served
Though acting sentinel may seem a burdensome task, experts have also found it well-rewarded come sunset. Just before they retreat below ground for the night, the group members gather together at the entrance of their chosen burrow and set about grooming each other. Allogrooming reinforces the bonds between group members and helps to reduce anxiety levels. Animals that acted as sentinel each day were rewarded with this affirming grooming during these socialisation periods, suggesting that dwarf mongoose are not only aware of which individuals are putting in the work but capable of retaining that information throughout the day. Even more astounding, troublemakers that instigate aggressive encounters are also noted with disdain and “punished” at the end of the day with less attention. In other words, bullies are essentially snubbed by the rest of the group!
A considerable facet of dwarf mongoose appeal is their sociality
Final thoughts on dwarf mongoose
A dwarf mongoose sighting is usually first announced by a streak of brown fur flashing across the track. But sit tight, and you will hear the chirrups of the rest of the group as they regroup. With patience, their natural curiosity generally wins out, and little heads will emerge to investigate the situation with bright eyes. While lions and elephants are always exciting finds, it is always worth remembering that Africa’s little animals can be just as enthralling.
Spotted hyena have returned to Maputo National Park
Apex predators have serious status. The lion lies in first place in the mighty hierarchy of Africa’s food chain – a fair call given their magnificence and top-down significance. But no species exists in isolation; survival hinges on the interplay between each species. Aspiring to this bigger picture, Maputo National Park in Mozambique (declared in 2021, joining Maputo Special Reserve and Ponta do Ouro Partial Marine Reserve) is topping up its scavenger quota, beginning this month with five spotted hyena incoming from Sabie Game Park. Not to oversell the underdogs, this represents another great if unsuspecting, rewilding win for southern Africa. Peace Parks Foundation shares this report.
“Without impalas and hyenas, the lion cannot be the king of the jungle.” – African proverb
For a time, wildlife suffered across Mozambique’s protected areas and, as a result, so did ‘functionality’ – how well the environment could work, by and for itself. Rebuilding this rhythm at scale is a highly sensitive, strategic process since every living thing has its place and dependencies within the system. This includes spotted hyena, previously eradicated in the park, but for a small leftover population. To fix this and restore the balance that comes with a vital scavenging role is precisely what Mozambique’s National Administration for Conservation Areas (ANAC) and Peace Parks have set out to do.
A new age and status for Maputo National Park
Maputo National Park was proclaimed in 2021 after merging Maputo Special Reserve, and Ponta do Ouro Marine Reserve. It forms an integral 1,700km² of the Lubombo Transfrontier Conservation and Resource Area. (To learn more about safaris in this special area, click here.) Remarkably, the park falls within the Maputaland-Pondoland-Albany Biodiversity Hotspot, one of 36 hotspots amongEarth’s most biologically diverse and endangered ecoregions. This has been a powerful motivation in presenting it to the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) for assessment and approval as a World Heritage Site, an extension of the adjoining iSimangaliso Wetland Park in South Africa, which already carries World Heritage status.
ANAC, which directs the management of Mozambique’s National Parks and Reserves, and Peace Parks Foundation signed a 15-year agreement in 2018 to restore, develop and manage the park – taking joint responsibility for the health and wealth of its supernature in the wake of a civil war. Among this region’s remaining biodiversity bank were many species needing rehab – and not just the iconic ones.
The art of revival: go big with hyena to go wild
And so began an ambitious wildlife translocation programme to Maputo National Park. The aim is to bring back nature by reintroducing animals historically found in the area. Boosting the recovery of their populations is essential to developing the park as a tourist destination. Still, it is vital to restoring balance and abundance far and beyond the acclaim of re-building the Big Five and friends.
Hyena are relative latecomers to the rewilding party, with an impressive inventory of plains game having been introduced over time to Maputo National Park and thriving since. Now it’s the turn of the hunter-scavengers, and they should have no shortage of dining options.
Rewilding began with kudu, impala, giraffe, buffalo, wildebeest, eland, zebra and other plains game species being trucked in. By 2022, 5,101 animals had been successfully translocated into the park from wildlife-plentiful parks and reserves, including 11 species that had become locally extinct. Many are now bouncing back naturally under the renewed protection of the park’s rangers, and thanks to natural animal ‘walkways’ restoring connectivity between historical ranges.
The park’s 2021 aerial census counted more than 12,000 animals, a marker of richness and progress but not necessarily completeness. And so the need has been recognised for the reintroduction of scavengers: the five hand-picked hyenas from Sabie Game Park, a protected area in western Mozambique which shares its borders with South Africa’s iconic Kruger National Park. Sabie can happily and healthily spare a small clan thanks to its wildlife revival.
Translocations require immense patience, skill and resilience. The success of these operations, from shifting five scavengers to scores of herbivores, is thanks to the expert teams, experienced organisations and supporting partners to Peace Parks
No rewilding operation is a basic case of shifting species X from A to B. An expertly coordinated and carefully executed plan is tailored to each translocation, often involving multiple teams and partners. The Mozambique Wildlife Alliance, an organisation key to the success of this move and many gone before, makes the vastly complex process of relocating animals safely and smoothly orchestrated. Its vets have seen many a species land successfully in their new homes and go on to flourish. With a quarter of Mozambique declared conservation space equipped with a visionary rewilding outlook and great motivation, their services will be valued here for many years.
When moving hyena, micro-management is required from the start, given the complex hierarchical clan structure. Family ties and hierarchy must be respected for the founder population to get along with each other and their neighbouring kin. The capture is equally complex; successful baiting in the dark depends on duping and doping the suspicious scavengers. Once caught, they are loaded onto vehicles and translocated directly to bomas in Maputo National Park. Resting and refuelling in these holding pens allows them time to build reserves and get new bearings until they’re declared good to go by the vigilant vets and the Maputo National Park conservation team.
Setting up a bait station to attract hyenas
Bad-turned-good friends with benefits
With plains game thriving and a prey stockpile mounting nicely, it is now the predators’ time to shine in the park. The spotted scavengers are vital in paving the way for the much-anticipated big cats and helping things run smoothly and cleanly.
The new clan will act in a supporting predation role to the cheetah that is hoped to be introduced soon – and all eyes will be on them as they do. Some of them will have satellite collars fitted pre-release. This data feed, along with the park’s considerable camera trap network, will allow teams to monitor group composition and condition and to understand each individual’s patterns of movement and behaviour.
The hyenas were released into bomas inside Maputo National Park
Their new home is full of hope and opportunity, which is long overdue for a species with a history of coexisting on the edge. It is also a new era richly deserved by a park where dedicated efforts to rewild, protect, connect and sustain already influence entire landscapes and communities within and beyond its bounds. It is a promising prospect for hyenas as they gradually re-establish and extend their range to benefit the entire transboundary tree of life.
Gaining this species which values kinship so highly for its survival, Maputo National Park can be proud to forge this ecological friends-with-benefits relationship between hyenas, humans and ecosystems. It is a testament to the will to revive great spaces and their many wild assets… and uplift the underdog.
“Declare kinship with the hyena, and all hyenas are your friend.” African Proverb.
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Best safari month + talking testes + elegant impala
There is a debate going on in our office about the best time to go on safari, and several of our safari experts swear October is the best month for an African adventure. With predators easy to spot at waterholes in southern Africa, fewer crowds at those Mara River wildebeest crossings and warm weather favouring relaxation on the beach, there are plenty of reasons to start planning an October safari now. Read why in our first post below.
And then, as common as mud yet far more captivating, impalas are a staple of any safari experience. Described by ecologist Dr Richard Estes as “the perfect antelope”, impalas are known for their resilience and athleticism. We still enjoy spending time observing herds of these doe-eyed mammals, and our second story below may have you seeing them in a new light.
Finally, the vets at Provet this week are treating one of their tiniest pangolins yet – a newborn pup whose mom clung to him with all her might to protect him from poachers. Read more about our Save a Pangolin campaign and find out how you can help below.
Story 2 https://africageographic.com/stories/impala/
ELEGANT IMPALA
Impalas are one of the most common yet remarkable antelope species. We celebrate these doe-eyed safari stalwarts
Desert & Delta – 11 days/10 nights – from US$5,295pps
This iconic safari is about water – or the lack thereof. This safari ranges from the majestic Victoria Falls to the watery wilderness of the Okavango Delta, from the predator-rich northern Botswana floodplains, to the remote Central Kalahari and desolate salt pans.
Special offer: Stay 4, pay 3 at Duba Plains Camp
Duba Plains Camp lies in the heart of the Okavango Delta in a matrix of palm-dotted islands, floodplains and woodland. Book 4 nights and only pay for 3! Valid 1 November to 19 December 2023.
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Let’s talk (briefly) about testicles. In particular, their position in relation to the rest of the body. Those among you that are a) in possession of testicles and b) have ever suffered some kind of trauma to that general vicinity should be able to attest to the fact that their placement makes them vulnerable. And a cursory glance at a galloping buffalo bull should be sufficient to convince you that life could be worse.
Why would nature have designed things so? Thermoregulation, right? We were all taught that the testes hang outside the body to keep them cool for sperm production. But did you know that the reason for external testicles is actually contested in the study of evolutionary sciences? Because we don’t know what came first – cooler testicles or the requirement thereof. And there are plenty of exceptions to the rule. Elephants and rhinos have internal testicles without significant reproductive challenges and, perhaps more appealingly, without wandering around with an additional exposed appendage.
Temperature control aside, there are several competing theories to explain external testes, including a “training” hypothesis, a “galloping” hypothesis and, somewhat entertainingly, a “display” hypothesis. You can read more about the subject here.
PANGOLIN PUP!
Another pangolin pair has been saved by Provet Animal Hospital. A Temminck’s ground pangolin was recently confiscated from the illegal wildlife trade in the Northern Cape. On inspection, local vets discovered she was clutching and protecting her little newborn pup, still wrapped in afterbirth. In extreme trauma situations, pangolins often deliver pups early. She was found with a head wound inflicted by poachers who had attempted to pry her curled body open using a spade.
The pair were then airlifted to Provet for treatment and rehabilitation. Unfortunately, the mother had no milk to offer her pup. The little male had already lost 30g since his initial weigh-in and had extremely low blood sugar levels. Dr Debbie English and her team made the tough decision to separate the mother and pup to give them the best chance of survival.
PLEASE NOTE ALL PANGOLINS ARE HOUSED OFF-SITE AT A SECURE LOCATION FOR SECURITY PURPOSES
WATCH: Go behind the scenes of one of the largest ever animal translocation projects in the world. Watch how African Parks and partners embarked on a project to reinvigorate the elephant population of Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve (4:34). Click here to watch
Ask any safari guide or returning guest about their favourite animal in Africa. The answer is invariably one of the more “charismatic” creatures – lions, leopards, giraffes, elephants and so on. The chances of their saying “impala” are small. Ubiquitous as impala are, these elegant antelope are generally overlooked by all but the most enthusiastic of nature lovers. Yet viewed through appreciative eyes, the impala is one of the most remarkable animals in the African bushveld: doe-eyed, resilient and effortlessly athletic.
Impala basics
In his seminal book on the behaviour of African mammals, celebrated ecologist Dr Richard Estes describes the impala (Aepyceros melampus) as “the perfect antelope”. Though he does not explain his reasons for this sentiment, it isn’t difficult to understand his thought process. Impalas are widespread and abundant throughout much of sub-Saharan Africa and are easily one of the most common antelope species. Moreover, the impala hit upon the perfect recipe early in its evolutionary history. Research shows they have remained relatively unchanged for at least five million years.
A black-faced impala
While previously believed to be a sister taxon to the hartebeest family, genetic studies have revealed that the impala’s closest relative is the diminutive suni (Neotragus moschatus). However, the impala is the only member of its genus and is the sole member of the Aepycerotini (“high horned”) tribe. Though there is only one recognised species of impala, the black-faced impala (A. m. petersi) of Namibia and Angola is listed as a valid subspecies on the IUCN Red List.
One explanation for their early evolutionary success is the impala’s unfussy approach to sustenance. They are mixed feeders, meaning they will graze, browse, and switch between feeding modes depending on the season. They focus on grasses during the early rainy season, when the grass species are green and still growing, before slowly switching to browsing foliage, shoots and forbs as the dry season progresses. This flexibility in feeding is also seen in different habitats. It confers an unusually abundant and reliable food supply and ensures that the impala ewes generally have sufficient sustenance to produce a lamb yearly.
Impalas are widespread throughout much of sub-Saharan Africa
An impressive production of new lambs each year is essential, as impalas are a staple prey species for all large predators (including martial eagles and other birds of prey). Mortalities are high year-round, but especially during lambing. Therefore, it is somewhat unsurprising that impalas are alert and observant antelope. Their keen eyes are usually the first to pick out the creeping outline of a stalking leopard or cheetah. If a predator is spotted, the herd will let out a cacophony of sharp barks – unless the predator is a pack of painted wolves, in which case the herd may scatter without so much as a sound. However, research has shown that impalas tend to adopt a “better safe than sorry” approach and may be so jumpy that they give off a false alarm call. Consequently, other animals take the warning vocalisations of impalas less seriously.
The males and females are sexually dimorphic – the rams are larger and sport an impressive set of lyre-shaped horns.
Impalas are a staple prey species for all large predators
Quick impala facts
Shoulder height:
Males: 75–92cm
Females: 70–85cm
Mass:
Males: 53–76kg
Females: 40–53kg
Social structure:
Variable depending on region and season. Mixed herds, bachelor groups and territorial males
Gestation:
194–200 days (six and a half months)
Conservation status
Least Concern
In leaps and bounds
The spring-loaded impalas are undoubtedly one of the most impressive athletes in the animal kingdom, capable of leaping over three metres into the air and covering ten metres in a single bound. They are also exceptionally fleet of foot, capable of reaching top speeds of over 90km/hour. When running from predators, a herd of impalas will explode into a series of spectacular leaps in every direction, cutting in front of each other or jumping over other individuals in a way that makes it more difficult for the attacker to select a target.
These impressive physical displays are poetry in motion and a pleasure to watch, but even the impala seem to enjoy their abilities at times. On cooler mornings, individuals break out into a unique jumping style where the hindlegs are thrown upwards into a “handstand” before rebounding and leaping upwards again. This rocking high jump is still not fully understood and seems infectious – once one goes, many others follow. While impossible to prove, anyone who has ever witnessed impalas bounding about like this would be hard-pressed to deny that they – adults and youngsters alike – seem to be having fun.
Impalas can reach top speeds of over 90km/hour
Colours, contours and cleanliness
The rufous two-tone coats of the impalas are another distinguishing feature, with the dark fawn-coloured top half contrasting with tan flanks and a white underbelly. This is theorised to be an example of countershading in nature, breaking the pattern of light and shade of a three-dimensional animal. The idea is that the darker dorsal colouration helps disguise ventral shadowing when lit from above and hides the shape of the impala from potential predators. The flank stripe may also visually amplify the vertical leaps of fleeing impalas, making them seem even more impressive and thus deter predators. Interesting but so far unexplained is the astonishing similarity in the colouration of the impalas and the gerenuk – two antelope with no close phylogenetic relationship.
The dark line markings on either side and through the middle of the impala’s tail are likely signalling devices, particularly during a chase. When impalas are running from a threat or displaying stotting (showing off) behaviour, the tail is also raised to expose the fluffy underside, which may help individuals stay together as a group. The black metatarsal glands on the back legs – found only on the impala – are also believed to serve a similar function by releasing pheromones during high stress.
Of all antelopes, impalas are perhaps the most meticulous about grooming. They are also one of the few that engage in both self- and allogrooming (where one individual grooms the other). The loose teeth of the front lower jaw form a functional toothcomb that helps to remove ectoparasites.
The distinctly recognisable rufous coat of the impala
A roaring good time
Impala social structures and spatial arrangements vary depending on region and seasonality. In Southern Africa, impalas have a strict breeding season that begins during the dry season and lasts only about a month. This seasonality is governed by decreasing day length. During the rut, the males’ androgen levels increase dramatically, and the physiological effects manifest as a thickening of the neck and enlargement of the testicles. During this time, mature rams are territorial, defending their patch from interloping males and working overtime to keep females herded around them. The impalas of East Africa (which are much larger) often have a more extended breeding season that may last for most of the year. Here the rams usually dispense with territorial defence for only a few months over the dry season.
Three males on high alert in the rain
These territorial males become single-minded to the point of recklessness, barely stopping to eat, groom, sleep or watch for predators. They produce a loud roaring sound so unexpected from an antelope that more than one safari guest has mistaken it for the terrifying sound of a fearsome predator. These highly-strung rams are far from conflict-averse, and violent clashes and serious injuries are frequent. This constant activity takes a considerable toll on their physical health, and a male will often find themselves ousted by a fitter competitor. This is even more pronounced in East Africa, where the males have to try and maintain territories for longer.
Interestingly, this behaviour is also seen during the lambing season in Southern Africa, albeit less dramatically. There is a corresponding spike in androgen levels in the males, which is still not fully understood, though it is probably related to the pheromones of the females in late-stage pregnancy.
The lambs of spring (well, summer)
There is a prevalent misconception that female impalas can delay the birth of their lambs for up to a month in anticipation of the arrival of the rains. However, this is a physiological impossibility – a ewe cannot control her fetus’s growth, and labour is triggered when the lamb reaches its full size. The arrival of some lambs later in the season can easily be explained by a later conception time – either because the ewe came into oestrus late or the first oestrus did not result in conception. Poor nutrition may also slow the growth of the foetus slightly.
A newborn, fresh out the womb, struggles to its feet. Within minutes it will be walking
In Southern Africa, the lambs are born around November and early December (check them out on your next safari to Greater Kruger), during this region’s “baby season”. A couple of days after birth, the mother will lead her lamb back to the herd, where it will join a nursery with the other newborns. These nurseries may be guarded by a few ewes or even left to fend for themselves for hours each day. When it comes time for the ewe to feed her baby, both mother and offspring bleat frantically until they are reunited. Like all ungulates, the lambs are quick to find their feet, and the sight of them bouncing around and showing off on absurdly spindly legs is utterly beguiling. Play fighting is a common sight, and the male lambs begin butting heads long before their horns grow.
The lambs are weaned as early as four months old, with just enough time for the females to try and recover body condition before the rut begins. To put her life into perspective, an impala ewe is pregnant for over six months, lactating for another four, and then has about a month to herself before the rams start chasing her from pillar to post. She will then fall pregnant again and grow a 5kg lamb during the dry season when available food is at its least nutritious. And, as if this weren’t enough, she can still run at over 75km/hour to escape predators. This should give some idea of the evolutionary marvel that is the svelte impala.
A young lamb nursing
Final thoughts on impala
The next time you happen to find yourself on safari, take a moment to stop with a herd of impalas and spend some time simply observing them. The impala is the one animal you are almost guaranteed to spot on every game drive, so why not take the opportunity to appreciate them?
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Trophy hunting exposé + expedition Iona
My opinion editorial in the stories below speaks for itself. We follow the money and shed some light on the opaque trophy hunting industry. This process – of shining a spotlight into dark corners – is essential for any industry claiming to be sustainable and responsible.
It seems like government decision-makers are happy to sell off the last of Africa’s roaming giant tuskers for a relative pittance and set trophy hunting quotas for leopards without the benefit of accurate population stats. That said, they could at least make sure that local people receive enough compensation from trophy hunters to drag themselves out of extreme poverty. One way to achieve this is to enforce transparency, supervision and audits of signed contracts between trophy hunters and communities and the related flow of money.
As usual I am open to interesting discussions and fact-based analysis with anyone that can add to my understanding of the situation – regardless of your opinion.
A responsible safari tip: when you book your next African safari please allocate some time in a remote area not blessed with guaranteed sightings of charismatic species. By doing that, you monetise those areas and so empower local people to tolerate wildlife and to live without trophy hunting as a source of revenue. Just a thought. We are here to guide you through those decisions.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
A few weeks ago I met up with a few dozen well-wishers at Lesedi Cultural Village in Gauteng, who had gathered to see off Kingsley Holgate and his team of adventurers for their 41st expedition into Africa – to much fanfare and ululation. Fed up with stories of doom and gloom around conservation, Kingsley’s Afrika Odyssey expedition team have set out on a journey of purpose to connect 22 protected areas managed by African Parks and showcase their positive stories of hope for the continent. We are pleased to share the first in a series of stories they will tell from the road. Read expedition member Sheelagh Antrobus’s raw and whimsical narrative on the team’s journey to Iona National Park in our second story below.
And then, check out Simon’s Op Ed below as we follow the money on a major elephant hunt in Botswana.
Take advantage of these sensational safari offers. Book now before it’s too late! Our travel team are on standby, ready and waiting to assist you.
Chitake Springs photographic safari – 6days/5nights – from US$4,171 Only two spots left on this epic photographic safari, led by two expert guides and devised for adventurous travellers and photographers seeking raw, untamed wildlife action. There are few better places than Chitake Springs in Mana Pools National Park to witness dry season Africa at its most dramatic. Departing September 2023. The perfect safari for solo travellers, as there is NO single supplement.
Special offer – 10% discount at Mwamba Bush Camp, South Luangwa Last minute special! Stay 5+ nights at Mwamba Bush Camp and get 10% discount off the nightly accommodation rate. Valid 1 August – 30 November 2023. Mwamba Bush Camp is a seasonal bushcamp on the Mwamba River deep inside Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Did you know that, like most young humans, young leopards go through a dumb teenage phase? This is particularly true of adolescent males. Driven by a soup of hormones, youthful curiosity and (I assume) an underdeveloped prefrontal cortex, they may start doing strange things like following lions, stalking rhinos, and even observing people or jumping on cars.
Of course, this “abnormal” behaviour immediately sees them labelled as dangerous or problematic. And when humans permit, encourage, and promote this behaviour, the animal invariably suffers.
The fact this week was inspired by a video doing the rounds of a young leopard in the Kruger that leapt onto the hood of a car and set about investigating the occupants (I will not be promoting it further). It has been widely shared, including by a well-known media platform, without reference to how this behaviour should be discouraged. I continue to be amazed at how people will exploit wildlife for their social media fame. And then, when called out on it, fail to show any humility or admit to mistakes (which we all make).
I cannot believe I have to say this, but please don’t let leopards or other big cats climb onto your car. And for guides, photographers and wildlife “influencers” – please be aware of the message you send out into the world.
The perfect Botswana trip
Nina Chambers and five friends travelled with us on an unforgettable trip to Botswana. She shares feedback on her experience:
“There are a lot of choices to make in planning a safari. Africa Geographic put together a trip for me that gave me the experience I was looking for in a way that I would not have been able to do on my own.
I’ve been dreaming about this trip for years, and the reality was even better than I could imagine. The agent we worked with, Nadia, was absolutely wonderful! She understood what I was looking for, was very responsive with excellent information and answers to our many questions, and all her suggestions for the trip hit the mark perfectly.
Bakwena Lodge was a perfect start… The mobile safari was excellent, and the Chobe River trip and Khwai mokoro were great additions. Moremi Crossing was an excellent cap to the trip.
Africa Geographic tailored the trip specifically to what I was looking for—every component of the trip was thoughtful and demonstrated their knowledge of the services and experiences available. They were very helpful in arranging all the details; I’ve never felt more taken care of than on this trip. Don’t mess around trying to figure this out on your own: work with Africa Geographic to create your perfect trip.”
WATCH: A once in a lifetime sighting. These safari goers thought they had hit the jackpot when they came across a mating pair of leopards. But the action was only just beginning, as the pair were surprised by one unlucky impala (0:58). Click here to watch
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Iona National Park in Angola is one of the first stops on their journey. Sheelagh Antrobus shares news from the road.
Our first Afrika Odyssey challenge is to cross the continent from the Indian Ocean in the east to where the Kunene River pours into the Atlantic Ocean, and reach the first park on our list: Iona National Park in the southwestern corner of Angola.
In the southern city of Lubango, we meet up with Brad Hansen (veteran of many past expeditions and an ambassador for African Parks) and Ken Wilcox. Ken is the patron of this Iona leg of the expedition, and in support is the larger-than-life Angolan character Stefan van Wyk and his crew of Raol, Fernando and Paulo.
Spirits are high as the adventure begins on the granite cobblestone road to the Tundavala Gap on the rim of Angola’s central plateau. The plateau’s awe-inspiring abyss abruptly drops 1,000 metres, providing endless views over far pavilions of jagged mountains and vast plains stretching down to the Namib Desert and the cold South Atlantic coast beyond.
The dangerous hairpinned Serra da Leba pass en route to Iona
The big, heavily loaded expedition Land Rover Defender 130s expertly handle the dangerous hairpin bends of the Serra da Leba pass that twists and turns through several climatic zones down to the plateau below, its steep retaining walls covered in colourful graffiti. And then, down on the coast, the pastel shades of the old Portuguese houses mark the port town of Mossamedes.
An ancient Welwitschia mirabilis with the Afrika Odyssey expedition D130
Here, we’re joined by the African Parks team of Leon Lamprecht (regional operations manager), Iona park manager Pedro Monteroso and new conservation manager Dan van de Vyver – all determined to resurrect and protect Iona. Their enthusiasm is infectious, and they exhibit the same grit and determination as the ancient Welwitschia mirabilis that dot this desert landscape, across which we’re going to zigzag. Stefan leads us to one of the oldest and biggest welwitschias – as large as the Defenders – surrounded by hyena tracks. This ancient, leathery desert plant is reputed to grow only a few millimetres a year and lives for a thousand years or more. We set up a wild camp with the golden glow of the setting sun reflecting off massive sandstone outcrops. We are surrounded by cliffs softly lit by the spotlight from Stefan’s camp kitchen.
An expedition is born
It’s great to see Leon again. We had first met when he was managing Zakouma National Park in Chad, where we had shared many a campfire. This was when we first became fascinated by the success story of African Parks and their ability to resurrect, manage and protect vast tracts of African wilderness, sometimes against seemingly impossible odds. It’s a conservation miracle. In Zakouma, we had met rangers and the tough, experienced anti-poaching units. We learned how, in partnership with the government and local communities, they had stopped the mass elephant poaching in Zakouma by the Janjaweed (the feared ‘devils on horseback’) from neighbouring Sudan.
It was then we decided that one day if the ‘Zen of Travel’ was on our side, we would undertake a journey of hope for Africa’s wildlife by connecting all 22 African Parks-managed areas across the continent. It’s great when a plan comes together. Four years later, we are on this exciting Afrika Odyssey expedition.
The Afrika Odyssey Expedition and Iona teams
Hope and change in Iona
In the morning, with the expedition map stretched out on the Defender bonnet and using the Zulu Talking Stick, Pedro points out what lies ahead across the vast plains, dry riverbeds, rocky mountains and the track down to Foz du Cunene and the Atlantic Ocean.
Crossing into Iona National Park, there’s not another tourist in sight – just us on this journey of discovery. Iona was proclaimed a reserve in 1937 and was upgraded to a national park in 1964. However, as is true for most Angolan parks, the Civil War significantly disrupted the area. Poaching and the destruction of infrastructure have also caused considerable damage to the once-rich park. But now, there is hope and change.
It’s a race against the setting sun to meet ‘Platoon Two’ from the Himba community. They recently passed a stringent training programme to become the eyes and ears of the reaction force that is, under African Parks, bringing new energy and professional management to this area of well over a million hectares – making the rebirth of Iona a recipe for success, just like we had already seen at Zakouma.
We fill up with fuel and water at AP’s Forward Operations Base Camp at Esphinheira. The two original rondavels that had been the park headquarters in the days of Portuguese occupation remain, but now the camp buzzes with activity. In the control room, Leon uses a pointer and maps to show us what it’s taking to resurrect Iona: staff and vehicle movements, water, fuel, supplies, weaponry, personnel, and anti-poaching units. Such control rooms exist in all 22 African Parks stretched across the continent and are at the very heartbeat of the professional management that African Parks brings to the gold standard of running conservation at scale.
A huddle of zebra in Iona
Art and glasses
But our visit to Iona is about more than wilderness. It also includes doing community work with the African Parks team. We’ll long remember judging a vibrant, educational wildlife art competition – the kids’ smiles, how beautifully the girls are dressed in their traditional colours. We’ll also remember the delight on the crinkly faces of the elderly at the gift of reading glasses – all part of using this adventure to add to the quality of the lives of others. In Ken’s words, “It gives me a warm feeling and adds meaning to the journey.”
Afrika Odyssey expedition humanitarian work includes provision of reading glasses
We’ll also remember the delightful interaction with the OvaKuvale, the semi-nomadic pastoralists. Women covered in colourful cloth wear ‘Ompata’ – large, square wooden headdresses. Not forgetting the OvaTwa people, believed to be related to the San-Bushmen, who have been in this area much longer than other tribes.
An OvaKuvale woman wears an Ompata – box-shaped headgear covered in traditional cloth
After presenting a homestead with gifts of maize meal, rice and sugar, Stefan explains how the OvaTwa women have adopted the traditional dress of the Himbas, the dominant tribe in the area. We have also met Himba folk in Namibia’s Kunene and Damaraland regions (ed: a great location for Namibia desert safaris). Despite their laughter and the kids pulling nervously on Kingsley’s beard, we can see their life is even more of a struggle than others, as they don’t own cattle – the equivalent of currency in this remote, desert region.
On the road again in the heat and the dust, the wreck of an old American Ford sedan on the roadside serves as a reminder of the time when the Portuguese had to pack what few personal belongings they could and make a dash across the desert and use a hurriedly built pontoon bridge to cross the Kunene into the safety of Namibia.
Entertained by Kingsley’s beard
Shifting dunes
We reach the isolated, crumbling police outpost at Foz du Cunene. The cold Benguela Current flows northward along this coast, chilling the air above and producing the fog that is a lifesaver for the fauna and flora of this arid landscape. In the sand, we use a stick to write ‘Foz du Cunene’ and add the first sip-full of water from the Kunene River mouth to the expedition’s symbolic and well-travelled Zulu calabash, to mark the beginning of this Afrika Odyssey.
Kingsley and Leon grasp the Zulu calabash, used to collect symbolic water along the route
Then, it’s a dash up the coast, racing the incoming tide and an adrenalin rush as Ross Holgate, Kingsley’s son, leads us across the high, shifting dunes of the most ancient desert in the world. What an adventure!
We drop down a steep sand track to camp wild again on the banks of the Kunene, with the backdrop of a towering Namib Desert dune glowing red in the late afternoon light. Across the river is Namibia and the Skeleton Coast National Park, which, together with Iona, makes up 50,000km² of land dedicated to trans-frontier conservation.
Racing the tide
Iona’s raw wilderness
And so, the adventure continues, following a long, single-track slowly zigzagging through dramatically beautiful scenery, Fairy Circles, said to be the largest on Earth and endless green blobs of Euphorbia virosa that survive in the ancient desert dunes of the Namib. The San people used the milky sap – highly toxic to humans – as an arrow poison for hunting, and the only animal able to stomach the plant were the black rhino that used to inhabit these areas. We see ostriches on the move and the occasional springbok, as Leon points out, on the oldest fossilised sand dunes in the world.
True raw wilderness: massive areas of no people, no mobile phone signal, no Wifi, no laptop, no distant car lights, no aircraft flying overhead… just starlit skies, mopane hardwood coals, the sparks disappearing into the night sky. Just us and these magnificent, primaeval landscapes and the ongoing journey below the rugged Serra Cafema Mountains with their zebra-stripe designs as we follow yet another remote track through the Marienfluss.
Further into our Iona journey, Leon shows us rhino “rubbing stones”, shining with age and patina. Some of them could also have been used by elephants and could be thousands of years old. One can imagine the rhinos of the past wandering up from the nearby river, rubbing ticks off their thick, tough skins on these ageless rubbing stones. We meet an elderly Soba (Himba chief), Mutili Mbendulu, who, at close to 100 years old, still remembers rhinos at the rubbing stones. Using his hands, he expertly describes what a rhino looks like with its two horns and snorting character and clearly remembers features of the big, grey-coloured elephants – how softly they walked on their large, padded feet, flapping imaginary ears and mimicking how they used their trunks. “And then they were all gone,” he says sadly. Victor Agostinho (Iona’s community officer) translates as Leon gently explains that one day, these great animals may return so that the Soba’s grandchildren can see them.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
At the village of Kuroko in the buffer zone south of Iona, the local government administrator and staff endorse the expedition’s Scroll of Peace and Goodwill (which is signed with messages from well-wishers along the journey). We follow this with malaria educational work at the district hospital and outlying villages with the support of the Iona community leadership team. Malaria is rife in this area, so pregnant women, and moms with young children, receive long-lasting, insecticide-treated mosquito nets.
(Left) An ancient rhino rubbing post in Iona; (Right) 97-year-old Himba Chief Mutili Mbendulu places a handprint on the Scroll
Wild freedom in Iona
What we’ll all remember about this journey to Iona is the freedom of it all. Our last two nights were wild camping in a mopane grove, and at last light, the smell of freshly slaughtered goat meat being cooked down on the dry riverbed. We’ll remember Chicipissa, the Himba drummer and his yellow plastic container of Canjombe self-brew. We’ll remember the dance of the Himba ladies with red mud ringlets in their ornate hair, the gleam of their red-ochred bodies shining in the firelight and the twirls and the laughter of the girls who so value their traditions.
The Afrika Odyssey expedition also highlights ancient indigenous cultures
Then it’s a race to the border post at Ruacana to cross back into Namibia. Not an official in sight – just some Himba girls in full traditional dress. Finally, the friendly official arrives – down comes his exit stamp with a smile and a thud. And then, on the Namibian side, the rubber snake in the Defender glove box frightens the rather officious Customs official who, fortunately, once she had recovered, saw the fun of it all.
This expedition quest to Iona was a magnificent journey of hope for the future of Angola’s largest national park. Thank you and Muinto Obrigado to all involved in this exciting first chapter of an Odyssey to link all African Parks across the continent.
Ken’s handwritten note in the expedition’s Scroll of Peace and Goodwill for Conservation says it all:
“I would like to thank the Kingsley Holgate expedition team and African Parks for inviting me to participate in this historic expedition across the stunningly beautiful lands of southwestern Angola and the ancient Namib Desert. I have felt honoured to share in this quest for preserving and conserving wilderness lands, wildlife and ancient indigenous cultures and wisdom across 12 countries, 22 parks and over 22 million hectares of land under African Parks management. It is such a privilege to be able to contribute to the success of these efforts. All the Best!” – Kenneth D Wilcox
Members of the Afrika Odyssey expedition wild camp amongst dramatic sandstone cliffs
Bush note for adventurers
A visit to Iona is an excellent extension to a 4×4 overland adventure – especially if you’ve travelled up through Namibia and want to add a true feeling of wilderness to your journey. Angola should no longer be referred to as ‘war-torn’. It has shrugged off its past and is upbeat, optimistic and welcoming. In time, guides will be available to lead adventurers through the infamous Z gap and thrilling adventure stretching down the Namib desert. By visiting Iona, you will be helping to make a difference in resurrecting and conserving the area. Don’t delay – a great adventure awaits you!
Post-publishing amendment (22 August 2023): After this post went live, we received the results of an audit of the Tcheku Community Trust, reflecting significant financial irregularities. The most serious involves the trophy hunter featured below. According to the audit report, the 2022 trophy hunting fee of US100,000 paid by the hunter was about half of the stipulated reserve price. The audit report reveals that the Trust general manager accepted the lower offer from the trophy hunter without the required approval of the Trust Board. This accounts partly for the extremely high gross profit made by the trophy hunter, as revealed below.
NG13 is a remote, largely unpopulated 2,907km2 (290,000ha) region in northern Botswana zoned for multiple uses, including photographic tourism and trophy hunting. It shares its 100km northern border with Namibia’s Bwabwata National Park. Much of the boundary fence is broken, resulting in the free movement of wild animals.
This is where Botswana professional hunter Leon Kachelhoffer bagged one of Botswana’s largest elephants in a trophy hunt last year for his client – a giant of a beast and one of the dwindling population of tuskers (elephants with tusks weighing at least 100 pounds each) left in Africa. When we reported on the hunt, we questioned how beneficial this hunt was for local communities in desperate need of a sustainable livelihood. Now we have access to information and figures documenting the likely profit made by Kachelhoffer in 2022 and the scraps that go to local communities.
This tusker was killed in NG13 in 2022 by Leon Kachelhoffer and his client. The tusks weighed 201 pounds – making this one of a small and diminishing population of tuskers.
What are the benefits for local people of trophy hunting in NG13?
The people in and around NG13 are few and far between – they eke out a subsistence living from this sandy, arid landscape. The Tcheku Community Trust was established to represent them and to channel revenue from the commercial exploitation of the area via tourism and hunting.
The aforementioned Kachelhoffer has tied up the Tcheku Community Trust in a five-year deal that gives his company, Old Man’s Pan Pty Ltd, exclusive trophy hunting rights. The Botswana government allocates annual trophy hunting quotas to each region, and, in NG13’s case, they are obliged to sell those rights to Kachelhoffer. In 2022, Kachelhoffer paid Tcheku Community Trust the total sum of BWP 1,346,000 (+/- US$100,000) for that year’s quota. The quota included five elephants and two leopards, amongst other species. These are verified figures taken from the NG13 management plan, of which we have a copy.
NG13 in Northern Botswana
What are the benefits for the NG13 trophy hunter?
The revenue assumptions per species hunt below are based on information provided by Botswana professional hunters.
Old Man’s Pan Pty Ltd
Trophy hunting NG13 income statement – 2022 estimate
REVENUE FROM NG 13 TROPHY HUNTING
5 elephants – US$ 75,000 each
US$375,000
2 leopards – US$ 35,000 each
US$70,000
Total revenue (excluding minor species)
US$445,000
DIRECT COSTS
Payment to Tcheku Community Trust
BWP 1,346,000
– US$100,000
Government trophy tax
5 elephants at BWP 70,000 each
– US$26,000
2 leopards at BWP 50,000 each
– US$7,500
Total costs
– US$133,500
Annual gross profit
US$311,500
Assuming that the quotas remain consistent, Kachelhoffer stands to pocket about US$1,6 million over five years. Add in the likely addition of lions in the future, and his revenue will skyrocket. Not bad off zero long-term or infrastructural investment, and when your only other material costs relate to attending hunting shows to market this and other trophy hunting areas. Note that this revenue estimate excludes what Kachelhoffer charges his clients for accommodation and other services, on which he will also likely earn a margin.
AS AN ASIDE, the surgical removal of Africa’s remaining giant tuskers makes no conservation sense
Current anecdotal estimates indicate that fewer than 100 tuskers remain in Africa (mostly in Kenya, which is free of trophy hunting), of which fewer than 30 are true giants, whose tusks touch the ground. Killing them has no impact on human-wildlife conflict, as these big bulls are not the culprits, and it does not solve Northern Botswana’s ‘elephant overpopulation problem’. NG13 lies within the KAZA Transfrontier Conservation Area, established to enable wildlife – especially elephants – to disperse away from human-wildlife conflict areas. So what is the conservation benefit of hunting the last remaining giant elephants? This is an important question that is unfortunately brushed aside by those who benefit financially and politically from removing the last giant elephants.
I also believe that setting leopard hunting quotas when leopard population estimates are vague at best and often non-existent is absurd and not scientific. Surely the term ‘sustainable utilisation’ cannot be applied when no reliable data exists?
For now, though, let’s ignore the glaring conservation issues and focus on the supposed benefits to local people of trophy hunting in NG13.
It’s clear from the analysis above that local communities receive a financial pittance for their resources. What about the rights, dignity and upliftment of NG13’s people? Menial seasonal jobs and a few servings of meat do not cut it, in my opinion. This is nothing more and nothing less than the plundering of local community resources by hardened wealthy businessmen.
Is this the true face of Botswana’s much-acclaimed ‘sustainable’ trophy hunting strategy? In May 2019, Botswana’s President Masisi justified the decision to recommence trophy hunting by emphasising that local communities will be guaranteed more than just menial jobs and enjoy sustainable wildlife management’s economic benefits. I have no conceptual issue with controlled, sustainable hunting based on sound scientific principles in areas where photo tourism fears to tread – because Africa’s people HAVE to be incentivised to have wild animals in their midst. Otherwise, we will end up like much of the ‘developed’ world – devoid of free-roaming wildlife. But is this how President Masisi envisaged involving impoverished, marginalised communities in the wildlife industry?
Why does the Botswana government allow its people to be taken for a ride and their natural resources to be plundered? What hold do Kachelhoffer and his cronies in the trophy hunting industry have over decision-makers at the local and government level? Why do local people sign these abusive binding contracts? So many questions. But we know that asking the perpetrators and trophy hunting representative bodies is a waste of time – they either ignore us, make legal threats, attack our integrity and/or provide nonsense spin.
To add further dimension to the situation, my sources inform me that some members of the Tcheku Community Trust are accusing its management of embezzling BWP 1.3 Million (about US$100,000) and have requested the District Commissioner to intervene with an audit to trace the missing funds.
I could go on about many aspects of this pillaging of African people and their resources, but I won’t. Hopefully, the abovementioned situation is sufficient to convince you that all is not well and that the decision-makers must step in and root out the rot.
Every safari client has some form of experience in mind – be it a species, event or activity. Some will request a specific place like a national park – but usually because of the hoped-for experience. Of course an exceptional safari also includes those little golden moments we remember forever – like delicious pressed coffee in Kigali on the way to trek for gorillas and those heavenly snacks served with handcrafted gin slings during yet another stunning Botswana sunset. Crafting epic safaris is about knowing when and where to go, and with whom. A few weeks too early / late or a few kilometres off course and you could miss the greatest show on Earth. And wouldn’t that be a pity? We seldom receive requests to visit a specific lodge, for example, unless that lodge offers some unique experience. And so every hand-crafted packagestarts with an experience, and we add accommodation based on budget and luxury preference.
This brings me to answer the question I am often asked by long-standing safari clients. If there was one safari you would suggest RIGHT NOW, what would it be? My reply is this: Big 5, chimps and gorillas in one country. Here’s where and how!
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve in Malawi is a captivating land of miombo forests and rivers, teeming with elephants and thriving wildlife. Thanks to efforts by African Parks to revitalise this protected area, Nkhotakota is now an ideal destination for experiencing untamed Africa, away from traditional safari destinations. Read our first story below to help you plan your own adventure to Nkhotakota!
Giraffe are a source of fascination for naturalists and scientists, and a highlight on any African safari. In remarkable new research, scientists have uncovered the surprising fact that giraffes employ statistical reasoning, making strategic choices based on probability. Read our second story below to delve into the magnificent minds of these mesmerising mammals.
Finally, if you’re planning your next African adventure, Kenya is likely high on your list of possible destinations. Kenya is home to iconic favourites such as the Maasai Mara, Tsavo, Samburu and Lamu, and captures the essence of the traditional safari. Read our last post to discover all there is to know about your Kenyan safari.
Story 3 https://africageographic.com/travel/places/kenya
KENYAN SAFARI
Kenya embodies the essence of traditional safari, with ‘Out of Africa‘ nostalgia and a wide variety of things to see and do
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The best-of-Malawi safari takes you to the Big Five havens of Majete Wildlife Reserve, Liwonde National Park and the rugged wilderness of Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve. Come and find out for yourself and make a real difference where it counts.
Did you know that an almost pure white puppy has been born to a pack of wild dogs in the Kwando region of the Okavango Delta in Botswana? All baby animals are cute (to varying degrees), but this little creature is particularly enthralling. Keep scrolling to see the video of this unusual natural oddity tumbling about with its tiny siblings.
Its pale colouring can probably be attributed to a genetic quirk called “leucism”. The definition for this particular descriptor is fairly broad and encompasses several conditions that cause decreased pigment production in certain areas of the body. It is distinct from albinism, which affects only melanin production and results in white colouring with pale pink/red eyes. (You can read more about leucism, albinism and melanism here.)
The “leucism genes” in the wild dogs of the Okavango Delta have been floating around for generations, though generally somewhat diluted and manifesting as more “golden” individuals. A puppy as white as snow, so to speak, is a rare find indeed.
Supporting rangers
On our forum: This week saw people around the globe paying tribute to rangers on World Ranger Day, 31 July. Rangers play a critical role in conservation. They are custodians of our planet, and their work is crucial in ensuring that we make progress towards achieving global biodiversity targets. On our forum this week, Andrew Campbell from Game Rangers Association of Africa has penned a tribute to the world’s rangers:
“On World Ranger Day, we honour the memory of our fallen ranger colleagues around the globe, acknowledging their unwavering dedication. Our heartfelt tribute goes out to these brave rangers and their families, who have made immense sacrifices in safeguarding our natural world.”
Read more on the forum.
WATCH: A white African wild dog puppy has been born in Kwando, Botswana. Local researchers confirm this is extremely rare and virtually unheard of in Botswana in the past 30 years or so. Check out this cute little pup in action (0:33). Click here to watch
Giraffe are an endless source of fascination for scientists and a highlight on any African safari. In recent years, ground-breaking research has revealed the secrets of their complex physiology and unexpected nuances to their social structures. Now, a new study has uncovered another startling revelation: giraffes are capable of statistical inference.
The basis for the methodology of the study (conducted on zoo animals) was simple: in a giraffe’s world, zucchini pieces are okay, but carrot pieces are delicious. The animals were individually presented with two transparent tubs – one with many zucchini and a few carrot pieces and the other with more carrots than zucchini. The experimenter would simultaneously grab one piece from each tub (in view of the giraffe but without the giraffe being able to see what the piece was) and offer both hands to the giraffe. The giraffe then “selected” a hand by touching it and received its reward in the form of a zucchini (ugh!) or a carrot (yum!). Almost unfailingly, the giraffe chose the hand from a tub with a higher proportion of carrot pieces, thus increasing their chances of receiving a carrot.
The next question was whether the giraffe were actually using statistical inference or just comparing the absolute quantities of carrot in each tub. To rule out the latter, the amounts and proportions of carrot and zucchini pieces varied as the experiments continued. The giraffe continued to select the hand with a higher probability of containing a carrot, suggesting they could use the visual evidence of relative frequencies to draw a statistical conclusion. (You can watch a brief video of the various tests here.) The researchers also conducted the experiment without allowing the giraffe to see the tubs, as a control trial to ensure that the animals were not using their sense of smell to guide previous selections.
For a long time, the ability to use probabilities as a reasoning tool had been considered an adult human trait. However, studies in recent decades have shown that very young children (and possibly even infants) have the ability to a certain degree. Similarly, the ability to use statistical inference has been found in great apes, long-tailed macaques and keas (a parrot species found in New Zealand). But all these species have a large brain relative to body size, which led to the hypothesis that large brain size is necessary for complex statistical analysis. Giraffe have a relatively small brain size, so these results disprove this hypothesis. In fact, the authors suggest that such statistical inference might be far more widespread in the animal kingdom than we ever realised.
Either way, this study adds to a growing body of evidence suggesting that giraffe have complex cognitive abilities.
The matriarch pauses for a moment – trunk raised, head held high – before she takes the first steps into her new home. At the behest of her gentle rumbles, the rest of the herd follows, and, in a few short minutes, the elephants have melted into the woodlands of Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve. Where once these woodlands were at risk of falling silent forever, she and her family are there to breathe new life into the reserve. They are the emissaries of Malawi’s wildlife renaissance and the protagonists of Nkhotakota’s bright new chapter.
Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve
Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve is Malawi’s oldest and largest reserve and encompasses 1,800km2 (180,000 hectares) of wild and rugged terrain. It extends east from the edge of the escarpment of the Great Rift Valley and stops just five kilometres short of the shoreline of Lake Malawi. From high in the mountains, rivers and streams plunge inexorably downwards towards the freshwater lake, cutting deep valleys and yawning caverns into the earth before reaching the plains below. In Nkhotakota, these waterways dissect the reserve, weaving through rough outcrops and rock-strewn ridges and bringing life to its inhabitants.
Dense but characterful miombo (Brachystegia) woodland covers most of the reserve, interspersed by dambos (shallow wetlands) and stands of lush grassland, which give way to the thick riverine forest along the rivers. Looming above it all, Chipata Mountain reaches an elevation of 1,614m, with a small patch of rainforest at its peak.
Miombo woodland covers most of the reserve
The reserve is surrounded by a substantial population of some of Malawi’s most impoverished people. When it fell into a state of neglect, the abuse of its natural resources was inevitable. Dwindling tourism meant negligible revenue was available for reserve upkeep and security, a vicious cycle resulting in charcoal burning, logging and poaching. From an estimated 1,500 individuals, Nkhotakota’s elephant population numbered just 100 at the start of 2015.
But Malawi’s conservation journey in recent years has been a triumphant one, and Nkhotakota is just one of its successes. Today, the reserve offers the perfect escape for elephant and nature lovers– a rugged piece of Africa at her most raw and beautiful, removed from the indignities of mass commercial tourism.
Find out about Nkhotakota for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.
Vast river networks and thick riverine forest are a sight to behold in the reserve
The agents of success
The reserve’s revival can be attributed to a partnership between the non-profit organisation African Parks and Malawi’s Department of National Parks and Wildlife. Buoyed by the success of their work in Majete Wildlife Reserve, African Parks assumed managerial responsibility for both Liwonde National Park and Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve in 2015.
Their first task was to repair the relationship between the reserve and local communities while ensuring the safety of both. Thus, the erection of a fence around the reserve became a priority, which was immediately executed after careful consultation with relevant community stakeholders. Within the perimeters of Nkhotakota, a smaller sanctuary was established as a more manageable region for initial restoration efforts. This inner sanctum has since been extended over 80,000 hectares of the reserve to include the Bua River.
Next came repairs to the reserve’s existing infrastructure and improvements to the road network, along with an overhaul of its law enforcement and anti-poaching efforts. With the help of community teams, law enforcement teams have collected hundreds of wire snares, filled in existing pit traps and confiscated several illegal firearms. Increased staffing and reserve coverage, improved training and upgraded equipment have resulted in a 50% decline in criminal activity since 2015.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
There are believed to be over 100,000 impoverished people living within a few kilometres of the reserve’s boundaries, and, for the first time in decades, they are beginning to experience the benefits of their country’s heritage. In 2021, 215 scholarships were awarded to orphaned and vulnerable school children, and every year, around 400 children are brought into the reserve on environmental education outings. Older community members are permitted to harvest park resources (such as palm fronds and wild fruits) in a sustainable manner under the Resource Use Programme, the rules of which are implemented in agreement with local leaders. The Nkhotakota District Community was also established to discuss the reserve, conservation, and human-wildlife conflict and as a platform for residents to air their views.
Relationships fostered between the reserve and local communities have gone a long way in contributing to successful growth of the reserve
500 (ish) elephants
No two parks are the same, so management plans must adopt an adaptive and comprehensive long-term vision. With Liwonde and Nkhotakota, African Parks inherited two regions with vastly different challenges. Historically, Liwonde had always supported a very healthy population of elephants, and with increased park security, it was proliferating and placing pressure on the park’s ecology. So too, in Majete, elephants were flourishing. But Malawi is a relatively small and densely populated country with scant options for wildlife corridors and dispersal. So it was that the historic “500 Elephants” operation was conceived.
From July 2016 until August 2017, over 520 elephants were translocated from Majete and Liwonde to Nkhotakota. Like proverbial ducks to water, the elephants quickly adapted to their new home. Even before the operation was complete, newborn elephant calves were taking their first stumbling steps in Nkhotakota. There are now well over 620 elephants in the reserve, filling the woodlands with the sounds of cracking branches and trumpeting once again.
Over 600 elephants have now made a home in Nkhotakota
And thousands more
Several thousand tonnes of transported pachyderm and a red-headed royal hogged the media limelight at the same time that 2,000 other animals, including sable antelope, eland, impala, buffalo, waterbuck, impala and warthog, made the journey to restore Nkhotakota’s wildlife.
Other animals, including waterbuck and sable antelope, have found refuge in the reserve
Several canny but increasingly relaxed leopards have gradually revealed themselves to lucky guests. A camera-trap project recently confirmed the presence of roan antelope and honey badgers, which were believed to be locally extinct. And for the chiropterphiles (we know this is not a word, but there should be a word for bat enthusiasts), Nkhotakota is the only place in Malawi where the lurid orange rufous trident bat can be spotted. Naturally, the return of other iconic animals such as black rhino, lion, cheetah and African wild dog (painted wolf) is a distinct possibility.
280 bird species have been recorded in the reserve, but this number is expected to increase dramatically with further exploration. For birders, discovering a previously unrecorded species must undoubtedly be an attractive prospect! As would the search for the Taita falcons believed to be breeding along the escarpment.
A half-collared kingfisher perched above the river
Explore & stay
A charm can be found in Nkhotakota which few wild spaces offer. Its austere beauty, tumbling rivers, and dappled paths are an escape to a piece of untamed Africa that is far off the traditional safari track. With the hard work of African Parks and Malawi’s burgeoning popularity as a safari destination, there is little question that the reserve’s future is bright. To be able to experience a part of that journey and to see and feel conservation happening around one in real-time is undoubtedly a privilege.
While game drives are an essential part of the experience, being on foot in the company of expert guides is the best way to explore the untrammelled wilderness. For those feeling particularly energetic, it is also possible to hike up Chipata Mountain and breathe in the majesty of this unique reserve. At certain times of the year, it is possible to follow the path of the Bua River by canoe.
For all its wild feel, there are lodges in Nkhotakota on par with any high-end luxury lodges across the continent. These are discretely hidden in the woodlands, facilitating a total immersion and escape to nature. For those travelling on a tighter budget, there are campsites, and the reserve permits self-drives. Alternatively, Livezi Camp is a self-catering camp featuring four ensuite tented chalets (canvas and stone) that sleeps 8-12 people in total (up to 3 per tent). The thatched central area – dining and kitchen – overlooks the non-perennial Livezi River.
Exploring the winding waterways of Nkhotakota is a wonderful way to experience the reserve.
The best time to visit is during the dry season, which runs from April to October, as the animals are drawn to available water. However, September and October can be sweltering and are best combined with a few days of cooling off in the waters of nearby Lake Malawi. The heavy rains from November until March can damper activities, but the spectacular storms over the escarpment or the lake are breathtaking.
Check out this video on Nkhotakota:
Final thoughts
Of the many attractive attributes of Malawi’s Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve, its elephants are the true stars. Not only is their history a testament to the work and commitment involved in Malawi’s wild spaces, but their presence is symbolic of the triumphs to come.
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Nairobi National Park + captivating genets
I had a reality check a few days ago during a discussion with our scientific editor Jamie – about the introduction of Southeast African cheetahs to India to replace the locally extinct Asiatic cheetah. During teamAG discussions, I had expressed concern about swapping out different subspecies in the name of conservation. Surely that amounts to moving against nature’s long-term intention via evolutionary processes? My line was drawn in the sand. Then Jamie pointed out that the recent introduction of southern white rhino into Garamba National Park (DRC) to replace the extinct northern white rhino – which I supported – amounts to the same thing. Touché Jamie!
As an aside, you can use the search function on our website to access our vault of fascinating natural history articles and safari information going back many years. Oh, and it’s free of charge. Did you know that we have been around since 1991? What a journey!
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
The image of a lion bounding across the savannah juxtaposed against Nairobi’s cityscape may seem surreal. But this is exactly the sighting awaiting visitors to Nairobi National Park, directly pressed up against Kenya’s capital city. This park is no less wild than some of Kenya’s more renowned offerings. The park provokes a poignant metaphor of wildlife and man, and the effect is a safari experience unlike any other. Keen to visit this unique landscape, suspended at the interface of wilderness and civilisation? Read our first story below.
Most safari-goers have had the pleasure of encountering a genet while out on a game drive, or even back at camp, hanging out near humans to try to scavenge tasty morsels pinched from the dinner offering. While they are frequently spotted, genets are no less captivating. These solitary, cryptic animals are beautiful and graceful to behold. Read all about these cat-like carnivores in our second story.
In our last post, we delve into a rather novel way to experience the delights of Africa: the mobile safari. Can you see yourself returning from the day’s safari activities to a brand new destination every day? On a mobile tented safari, a seasoned support team will be there to pamper you and move your mobile tented camp from location to location while you are out there exploring. Read more about this authentic safari concept below.
Since Simon brought it up, did you know that the division of living things into species/subspecies is one of the most controversial points of contention across all ecological fields of study? Feathers have flown in ornithological circles, entomologists bug each other on the subject and don’t even get me started on microbiologists. Insults like “lumper” and “splitter” (possibly coined by a botanist colleague of Darwin) are bandied about without concern for hurt feelings.
Because the distinction between species and subspecies is complicated by so many factors: geographical isolation, differences in genetic sampling approaches, politics…Some scientists have even posited that one’s approach to the matter is influenced by individual personality.
However, it is a subject that poses some important philosophical questions about the conservation of large-mammal species. When we seek to protect subspecies, what is the priority? Their genetics, morphology, ecological role or simply their intrinsic value? Because that will influence the decisions we make on everything from translocations to making little inbred test-tube babies.
WATCH: Wish you were here? Make your African safari dreams a reality with us. Choose from our carefully curated safari packages or customise your own adventure with our travel team. Why wait? Start planning your perfect trip now! (00:58). Click here to watch
For an entirely terrestrial animal, it is astonishing how genets seem to embody the very essence of water. Perhaps this seems a somewhat tortured comparison, but there is no other way to describe how these lithe little predators flow over obstacles, up trees and through the undergrowth. Though frequently encountered on safari (albeit usually just a brief glimpse), few realise how diverse the genet family truly is.
A genet-ic confusion
In fairness, one might be forgiven for failing to keep track of the complexities involved in genet taxonomy – even the scientists are still battling to get it right. Genets belong to the Viverridae family, with civets as their closest relatives. But the viverrids (genets and civets), mustelids (badgers and otters) and herpestids (mongooses) have always presented something of a taxonomic imbroglio for experts. For now, suffice to say that the IUCN Red List currently recognises 14 species of genet that slink, bound, and prowl across the continent. However, this list is likely to increase, and genetic and behavioural research has already identified at least three genets due to graduate from subspecies to a fully-fledged species classification.
Before the DNA technologies that have made such phylogenetic calls infinitely easier, the historic confusion surrounding the viverrids could be attributed to their mixed-bag morphology. Genets look for all the world as though a cat and a mongoose became entangled in an amorous muddle a few thousand years ago. Their bodies are indisputably feline, albeit with shorter legs and longer tails, but their facial features are sharp and mongoose-like. This only shows how decidedly deceptive looks can be because, while genets are indeed family cousins of the mongooses, they are more closely related to hyenas than cats.
Whatever their species and subspecies status, most genets are all but identical at a cursory glance. They all have a black dorsal stripe, spotted coats, banded tails and high-set oval ears. With needle-sharp teeth and a pounce to rival any African felid, these nocturnal little predators spend their nights terrorising tiny mammals, birds, and reptiles on the ground and in the trees (or begging chop bones from delinquent lodge guests).
Genet bodies are undisputedly feline
Spot the difference
Of the 14 recognised species, the rufous-coloured servaline genet (Genetta servalina), the not-actually-all-that-big giant forest genet (G. victoriae) and the mysterious but presumably piscivorous aquatic genet (G. piscivora) all inhabit the Central African rainforests of the Congo region. The delicate Hausa genet (G. thierryi), the obscure Bourlon’s genet (G. bourloni), the vulnerable crested genet (G. cristata), pardine genet (G. pardine), the Johnston’s genet (G. johnstoni) and the long-missing (but probably not extinct) king genet (G. poensis) all occupy West Africa. The Ethiopian genet (G. abyssinica) lives up to its name by inhabiting Ethiopia (and Eritrea, Somalia, Djibouti, and Sudan), and the miombo genet (G. angolensis) wanders the woodlands of Angola, Zambia and southern Tanzania. The Cape genet (G. tigrina) is restricted to the southern and eastern regions of South Africa.
The common genet (G. genetta) theoretically has the widest distribution of all species, extending across most of Africa and is the only species to occur outside of the continent, in southwestern Europe and the Middle East. It is closely followed by the large-spotted genet (G. maculata – also called the rusty-spotted genet), also found throughout most of sub-Saharan Africa.
The observant among you will have noticed the glaring omission of the small-spotted genet from the list. That is because, for now, the small-spotted genet is still officially considered a subspecies of the common genet. This could potentially come as a rather devastating realisation for southern African guides who have spent their careers double- and triple-checking which of the two species usually has the black tail tip (it’s the large-spotted, by the way) when hurriedly trying to distinguish between the two by the light of a spotlight. The good news is that the South African small-spotted genet (soon to be G. felina) is one of the three genets that will likely soon be recognised as separate species. The same goes for the Letaba genet (G. letabae), previously a subspecies of the large-spotted genet (happy news, but for those tasked with distinguishing the various individuals!)
Both the common and the large-spotted genets are believed to be “superspecies” comprising several valid species as yet unknown to science. This would explain their extensive distributions and makes it likely that there are far more genets in Africa than we realise.
The small-spotted genet is currently recognised as a subspecies of the common genet
A genet by any name (will still smell)
With the possible limited exception of the aquatic genet (of which almost nothing is known), the genet species all occupy a similar ecological niche as small and adaptable predators. Their palate is diverse, and while they are capable and ferocious hunters, they will readily scavenge and consume seeds and fruits. Most hunting and foraging activities are conducted on the ground, but genets are equally at home in the trees and generally opt for arboreal hiding spaces where possible. Apart from mothers and kits, they are strictly solitary and most active just after dusk and before dawn.
Genets are naturally cryptic animals, making the study of their behavioural nuances challenging. Olfactory communication appears to be the cornerstone of their social interactions, and they have well-developed scent glands on the flanks, hind legs and perineum. The pheromones in the exceptionally pungent secretions communicate the usual combination of sex, social and reproductive statuses to other genets. The males also mark home ranges with urine spray, and both sexes contribute faeces to specific latrine sites. Genets also use body language cues and a variety of vocalisations, from “chirps” and purrs to growls and hisses.
Genets show a preference for arboreal hiding places
Kitted out genets
The courtship dance of genets seldom observed in the wild is a brief but sinuous affair. The male follows enthusiastically behind the female as she slinks in random circles and patterns. Around 70 days later, the female will seek out a suitable tree hollow or burrow and give birth to up to four babies (known as genet kits), each weighing less than 100 grams. They begin to eat solid food at around six weeks old but will only start hunting for themselves by about four months.
Though the kits grow quickly, theirs is a scary and wild world, and everything from owls to leopards are potential threats. Those that survive promptly learn to stay close to cover and dash between hidey holes, so sightings of genets are usually fleeting. The exception to this occurs around human habitation and lodges, as they are quick to habituate to the presence of people and may even begin to associate these areas with an abundance of food and a (relative) absence of predators. Many a safari guest is treated to the sight of a genet curled in the rafters of the thatch or padding insouciantly through the dining area.
A young genet kit takes refuge in a tree
Pet genets
As with many of Africa’s small- and medium-sized (and even, on occasion, large) predators like servals and otters, there is a well-established but ever-increasing trend of keeping genets as exotic pets. While the majority of genet species populations are considered stable, and the pet trade does not threaten them at this stage, the practice of keeping wild animals in domestic situations almost invariably ends poorly for the animal. Young kits are cuddly and affectionate, as is natural for most mammal babies. However, as they mature, adult genets revert to their solitary state and may become aggressive, particularly around food. They also retain the instinct to scent mark and are subjected to invasive surgeries to remove the offending scent glands. Robbed of natural expression of their wild inclinations, pet genets often become neurotic and may even self-mutilate from anxiety and boredom.
Final thoughts
A wild genet, viewed in its natural habitat, is a beautiful and graceful creature to behold while on an African safari. The fluid movements of their lithe and agile forms, combined with alert and intelligent eyes, make them one of the continent’s more captivating offerings.
It’s an iconic yet incongruous image: a lion strolling on rolling grasslands, all attitude and defiance against the backdrop of the shimmering sprawl of a vibrant capital city skyline. In the heart of Kenya’s capital, Nairobi National Park is one of Africa’s most unique landscapes, suspended at the interface of wilderness and civilisation. No other protected space engenders this deeply poignant metaphor of wildlife and man, and the effect is a safari experience unlike any other.
Nairobi National Park
Nairobi National Park is exactly what the name suggests – a national park pressed against a capital city. Some of Nairobi’s busiest road networks run along the northern boundaries, and the runway of Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is less than five kilometres from the park’s fence. Schools, shopping malls and every conceivable modern convenience lie just a stone’s throw from an open savannah where prides of lion stalk through the grass and herds of wildebeest and zebra migrate with the seasons.
Herds of wildebeest and zebra migrate with the seasons
Apart from the intrinsic convenience of such an arrangement, it is the bizarre cognitive dissonance that attracts the park’s annual flood of visitors. This is no zoo, and the animals are as wild as those of the rural regions more often associated with traditional safari fame. Moreover, though the 117km2 (11,700 hectares) park is small compared to other Kenyan giants like Tsavo East and West National Parks or the Maasai Mara National Reserve, it punches far above its weight in historical and conservation value.
For fairly obvious reasons, the entire northern curve of the reserve, including the western and eastern edges, is fenced where it abuts the city. However, the southern boundary, which follows the undulating Mbagathi River, is open to the Kitengela Game Conservation Area to the south. The animals can move in and out of the park through a wildlife corridor stretching to the Athi-Kapiti Plains to the southeast. Nairobi National Park thus forms a vital aspect of the greater Athi-Kapiti ecosystem, allowing for the seasonal migration of many of Nairobi National Park’s animals.
A giraffe strides along the Nairobi skyline
Kifaru’s Ark
Seemingly unperturbed by their proximity to civilisation, the park’s wildlife thrives in the surprising diversity of habitats available, including rolling plains, lush forests, marshlands and stretches of riverine valley. Of the Big 5, only elephants are absent, and the park’s black rhinos are probably the most celebrated residents (to find African safaris that offer the whole Big 5 experience, click here). There are few places in Africa where the chances of encountering a black rhino are as high as in Nairobi National Park. According to Kenyan authorities, the park is home to around a hundred of these endangered pachyderms. Southern white rhinos are present as well, though in smaller numbers, and the park’s success in rhino conservation has earned it the nickname “Kifaru (meaning ‘rhino’ in Swahili) Ark”.
Southern white rhinos occur in small numbers in the park
The IUCN Cat Specialist Group recognises the park as a Lion Conservation Unit. At the latest count, over forty lions are wandering the park’s confines. Cheetahs and leopards are less frequently seen, and encounters tend to be fleeting. However, their smaller spotted cousin, the serval, is a common sight. Nairobi National Park is considered one of the best parks in Kenya for these magnificent little hunters. Time spent with servals is guaranteed to be rewarding as they are almost constantly on the move, usually hunting for rodents and birds in the long grasses. Watching the spring-loaded pounce of a serval in action is wild poetry in motion.
Long-limbed giraffes and ostriches delicately pick their way across the plains, outcompeting distant skyscrapers to dominate the horizon while herds of eland nibble through the open woodlands. Impalas, hartebeests, gazelles (Thomson’s and Grant’s) and zebras are ubiquitous, and hippos and crocodiles lurk in the park’s rivers and dams. As evening draws in, the whoops of spotted hyenas and howls of black-backed jackals set up the nightly chorus, cloaking the sounds of the city and creating the impression of a wilderness far removed from humanity’s mark.
Nairobi National Park is an important Lion Conservation Unit, recognised by the IUCN Cat Specialist Group
Kenya’s many migrations
Kenya is famed for the Maasai Mara section of the Great Migration – an annual circular journey of nearly two million wildebeests and zebras endlessly searching for fresh grazing. However, few people realise that East Africa was once home to several migrations and animal movements as the seasons and rainfall dictated water availability and food abundance. As is the case for thousands of ecosystems across multiple continents, humanity’s relentless growth and development put paid to these ancient cycles as fences, roads, and cities sprung up to block their paths.
However, some of these migrations still occur on a far smaller scale. One such example is the movement of animals from Nairobi National Park to the plains of Athi-Kapiti and beyond. During the wetter months, herds of wildebeest, along with an assortment of other antelopes and zebras, disperse across the open plains of Athi-Kapiti. As the rain dries up and the long dry season sets in, many of these animals travel back north to the reliable water points in Nairobi National Park.
Gauging the historic routes and scale of all-but-extinct animal migrations is a complex exercise, often involving no small amount of guesswork. Though impossible to know for sure, it is likely that the Athi-Kapiti migration once consisted of vast numbers of animals (including elephants) and saw wildlife moving all the way north past Nairobi to the permanent streams flowing off Mount Kenya. Sadly today, the Athi-Kapiti migration has all but virtually collapsed due to habitat loss and fragmentation. The thousands of wildebeest seen in the park at the end of the 20th century are down to just a few hundred. Yet migrations are known to recover when obstructions are removed, and nascent Kenyan conservancies hold much promise for maintaining wildlife corridors.
A small herd of Coke’s hartebeest, known locally as a “kongoni”
Free as a bird
Less restricted by terrestrial impediments, the annual migration of bird species to Nairobi National Park continues largely unabated. The birding in the national park is even more impressive than the diversity of mammal life. An astonishing 520 bird species have been recorded – one of Kenya’s highest counts of any national park. Iconic Kenyan grassland species like the oddly stylish secretary birds and loquacious yellow-throated longclaws abound, and flocks of flamboyant grey-crowned cranes are commonplace. Jackson’s widowbirds, lesser falcons, Madagascar pond-herons, corncrakes and even the occasional shoebill: with the diversity of habitats on display, it is not impossible for keen birders to rack up a checklist of 200 different species in a day.
Explore & stay in Nairobi National Park
Want to go on safari to Kenya and Nairobi National Park? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.
There are three public campsites in Nairobi National Park for adventurous souls. Still, many of its visitors opt to take advantage of the proximity to Nairobi and select one of the more luxurious lodge options on the park’s periphery. Alternatively, some choose to stay in the city and immerse themselves in Nairobi’s eclectic (if occasionally chaotic) atmosphere.
The park’s small size means it can be easily explored in a day, but the natural kaleidoscope of plant, bird and animal life ensures that extended stays are never dull. The remaining migrating ungulates return to the park during the long dry season from late June until October, making this the best time for wildlife viewing. However, the park is generally accessible throughout the year.
Within Nairobi National Park, there are several unfenced picnic sites to stop for a few hours, absorb the ambience and munch on some brunch (nothing builds an appetite like an early morning safari). One such picnic area can be found at the park’s most popular attraction: the Ivory Burning Site Monument. Here the Kenyan President, Daniel Arap Moi, set fire to twelve tons of ivory in 1989. The image of the burning tusks made headlines worldwide – a profound and powerful statement of conservation intent from the Kenyan nation. Since then, several stockpiles of seized ivory and rhino horn have been set alight as a commitment against poaching.
After a meaningful but emotionally taxing visit to the Ivory Burning Site, a trip to the world-famous David Sheldrick Trust’s wildlife orphanage may be in order. Here visitors are treated to the opportunity to meet hand-reared baby elephants and, occasionally, rhino orphans before they are deemed old enough to be released back into the wild. The nearby Giraffe Centre also offers a close encounter with endangered Nubian giraffes (also termed Rothschild’s giraffe under a different classification approach).
Find out about Kenya for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.
Over forty lions are present in Nairobi National Park
Final thoughts on Nairobi National Park
Aside from its proximity to the conveniences of modern life and a host of unusual attractions, there is something far more to the appeal of Nairobi National Park. The fact that it lies against a capital city does not mean the safari experience is inauthentic.
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Bush & beach + vultures released + everything Mara
It’s almost August – prime safari season – when we get all twitchy to head out. Oh, the smell of wild sage, those epic dusty sunsets and dawn choruses. AND a last-minute special offer has landed on our desks!
Fancy 11 days (21-31 August) on a fully catered mobile safari in Botswana – touring Moremi, Khwai, Savute and Chobe Riverfront? How about tracking the big cats and wild dogs across the dry savanna, gliding silently down meandering Okavango Delta waterways in search of glittering birds and drifting along Chobe River seeking the large elephant herds?
A few weeks ago, curious conservationists and vulture lovers gathered to witness an incredible spectacle just outside Hoedspruit, near Greater Kruger. A number of vultures, treated after surviving a mass poisoning event, were set to be released back into the wild. A few members of teamAG stood by to watch these lucky vultures crash out of their crates and dart towards freedom – all thanks to efforts by the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT). Our first story below highlights the plight of these vultures, and the innovative new vulture ambulance launched by the EWT.
Choosing between bush or beach for a holiday break can be a conundrum that tears friends and families asunder. Witness wildlife in action or relax on Africa’s sandy beaches? Luckily, we’ve found the solution: seven incredible African destinations that offer the best of both worlds, allowing you to explore the bush in the morning and head to the ocean or inland lake in the afternoon. Check out our second story below.
The Maasai Mara is one of Africa’s most popular safari destinations. Countless visitors are drawn to the Mara River crossings during the wildebeest migration season, while others choose to seek out the incredible wildlife action taking place in the low season. For everything you need to plan your next Maasai Mara safari, check out our third post below.
Fancy a last minute special on a fully catered mobile safari in Botswana? Or a special offer that will have you on the beach before the end of September? Read on, and reach out to our travel team now.
Botswana Classic – Fully catered mobile safari – Special rate – US$5,130pps
Explore all of northern Botswana on a fully catered mobile safari. Beginning in Maun and ending in Kasane and led by experienced guides, you’ll track big cats and wild dogs, and meander along the Chobe River. Book this authentic Botswana safari experience today and don’t miss out on this last minute special high-season rate of US$5,130pps, valid from 21-31 Aug 2023. Only 6 spots left!
Stay at Thonga Beach Lodge, KZN, South Africa
Thonga Beach Lodge is a luxury beach lodge that lies deep in South Africa’s iSimangaliso Wetland Park. Expect white beaches, blazing corals and freshwater lakes in this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Get in touch and don’t miss out on this stay 4, pay 3 special offer – valid for September 2023 only.
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
As a general rule, I avoid repetition when it comes to the facts I select for our newsletter each week. However, I simply couldn’t resist this week – partly due to the fortuitous timing but mainly for the beautiful irony.
Last week, I spoke about the link between the shape of birds’ beaks and the nesting material they select. One thing I failed to mention was that some bird species fortify their nests with a barrier of spears in the form of thorns, spines and even, on occasion, barbed wire. But here is the irony: in Europe (and probably many other parts of the world), it has become popular to use “anti-bird” spikes to deter birds from sitting in trees or on buildings. Without putting too fine a point on it, the intention is to stop them from defecating on whatever happens to be below.
In a laughable turn of affairs, did you know that Eurasian magpies have been found using these anti-bird strips as nesting material? They have taken these horrendous representations of our disconnect from nature and turned them into works of art. I love it.
An exceptional Kafue wilderness experience
Ulrike Krocker, who recently travelled with us to Kafue National Park, shares the highlights of her safari:
From the moment I was met at Lusaka till I arrived back from my stay at Kafue National Park, everything was perfectly organised.
Fig Tree Camp captured me with it’s charm and dedicated staff and inspired “Out of Africa” moments. At Mukambi Lodge I loved my tent with a balcony facing the river. The wildlife sightings continued daily, but the highlight was witnessing hunting wild dogs. During my six days I counted 19 individual lions. I did not count the hundreds of pukus and many other antelope species, elephants, numerous crocs, and hippos that we spotted. And of course we marked the obligatory leopard off our list too.
A big thank you to all the people who made this wonderful safari possible!
Feel inspired to book your next safari with Africa Geographic but hesitant to book a solo safari? Not to worry, teamAG have some advice for you.
WATCH: David Daballen is an ambassador and warrior for elephants. During the past 20 years, he’s been involved in more than 100 collaring operations. In this video, the Tusk Award celebrates David’s work with elephants as he continues to advocate for the importance of wildlife corridors (03:55). Click here to watch
Vultures, rescued with the assistance of the Vulture Ambulance and treated for poisoning, are released into the wild just outside Hoedpsruit
On a bright clear day in July, just outside the small bushveld town of Hoedspruit, members of the public (including several members of teamAG) gathered to watch the release of rehabilitated vultures back into the wild. It was a joyous moment for the crowds as 10 birds (six white-backed, one lappet-faced, one hooded, and two Cape vultures) launched themselves from their crates and took to the skies. But these vultures were the lucky ones – eight of these had survived a mass poisoning event that claimed the lives of one bateleur, four lions (including three cubs), and 45 vultures.
The surviving vultures owe their lives to the concerted efforts of the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT) Birds of Prey Programme Lowveld team. On the 16th of June, 2023, John Davies and Dr Lindy Thomson responded to a report of a poisoning incident in the Greater Kruger area. The first two white-backed vultures were found in grave condition just before darkness descended and rushed to Moholoholo Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre (Moholoholo). The next day, the rescue team (now supplemented by SANParks rangers, SANParks Honorary Rangers and veterinary professionals) continued the search over several gruelling hours, scouring the area and carrying critically ill birds back to the EWT’s specialised Vulture Ambulance. Ultimately, six white-backed vultures, one lappet-faced vulture and one hooded vulture made it to Moholoholo to be rehabilitated over the next two weeks.
A white-backed vulture is examined by members of the EWT
Vultures in crisis
Poisoning incidents such as this are devastatingly common, especially in high-risk areas such as the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area (which includes the Kruger National Park and surrounding reserves). Since January 2019, 796 vultures have died in this region.
Vultures in Africa are in crisis. Since the early 2000s, populations of most species have plummeted, with some populations declining as much as 97% in just a few short decades and many on the verge of collapse. Though habitat loss and fragmentation, collisions with powerlines and wind turbines, nesting disruption, and lead poisoning (from lead-based ammunition used in hunting and culling) are all contributing causes, mass poisoning events have the most destructive consequences for local populations. Depending on the time frame and the size of the poisoned carcass, one such incident can claim the lives of hundreds of vultures at a time. To date, the largest known mass vulture mortality event occurred in Guinea-Bissau in 2020 and resulted in the deaths of over 2,000 vultures.
The poisonings are usually motivated by the trade of vulture parts for ritual and religious use (or bushmeat consumption, depending on the region). Across sub-Saharan Africa, but especially in Southern and West Africa, vultures are valued for their use in traditional medicine. They are utilised to treat various physical and mental ailments and provide clairvoyant powers, good fortune, foresight and increased intelligence. The trade is supplied by poachers who lace carcasses with easily accessible agricultural pesticides such as Temik (aldicarb), a potent carbamate poison colloquially known as “Two Step” (so named for the two steps its victims take before they die). The approach is indiscriminate and frequently results in a massacre of other scavengers and predators.
Apart from deliberate poisoning, vultures may also be incidental victims of poison-laced carcasses meant to target land-based livestock predators such as jackals or lions. Furthermore, the rapid increase in elephant and rhino poaching has also increased the risk to vultures. Poachers have been known to poison the carcasses to kill vultures to avoid alerting authorities to their activities.
Treating a white-backed vulture during rehabilitation
Vultures are long-lived birds that are slow to mature and breed. They are fascinating to witness while on safari (let us help you see them in the wild), and each breeding pair is estimated to raise a single offspring to fledging once every one to two years. With mass poisoning incidents on the rise and vulture populations in steep decline, scientists have warned that many of Africa’s vulture species could be extinct within the next few decades. In response to these alarm bells, the IUCN Vulture Specialist Group prompted a reassessment of the conservation status of several species. The severity of their findings is summarised in the table below:
Threatened vulture species of Africa and their IUCN Red List conservation status in 2021
Hooded vulture
Critically endangered (Least concern in 2006)
Ruppell’s Vulture
Critically endangered (Least concern in 2006)
White-backed vulture
Critically endangered (Least concern in 2006)
Cape vulture
Vulnerable
Lappet-faced vulture
Endangered (Vulnerable in 2006)
White-headed vulture
Critically endangered (Least concern in 2006)
Egyptian vulture
Endangered
Eurasian griffon vulture
Least concern (but with several African populations now locally extinct)
Lammergeier
Near-threatened (Least concern in 2006)
The Vulture Ambulance
These mass poisoning events often occur in inaccessible areas far from rehabilitation centres. The birds that survive are invariably in critical condition and desperate need of emergency medical treatment. These realities prompted the EWT (with the assistance of various donors) to create a world-first Vulture Ambulance designed explicitly for mass poisoning events. The ambulance includes a mobile clinic, first-aid station and all equipment necessary to stabilise poisoned survivors. The customised crates can accommodate up to 20 birds at a time and allow easy access to each patient without disturbing neighbouring birds. They can even remain in the ambulance overnight when rescue efforts prove time-consuming.
The ambulance had been strategically placed in the high-risk Great Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area and proved effective in the latest poisoning event. The EWT hopes to develop more ambulance units to increase the number of birds that survive these catastrophic events.
How can you help?
Vultures play a vital ecological role in Africa and are essential to maintaining healthy ecosystems. As obligate scavengers, they rapidly remove carcasses and substantially limit the spread of disease. Their absence will have dire consequences for other wildlife and human health throughout the continent.
The EWT and other conservation organisations should be lauded for their efforts to protect the continent’s remaining vultures. It is a labour-intensive, emotionally draining and extremely costly process and support from the general public is always greatly valued (and indispensable).
A white-backed vulture, tagged for tracking, is released into the wild
Further reading
For the shocking scale of vulture poisoning over recent years, search our stories page for “vultures.”
To take in the best of Africa’s wildlife offerings or relax on its sandy beaches, soothed by the sound of the azure ocean waves? Bush or beach – a conundrum that could tear friends and families asunder when selecting their next holiday destination. Fortunately, there are a few magical destinations on the continent where one can have the best of both worlds in one spot.
So, where in Africa can you find these all-in-one destinations, where both the bush and beach are a hop, skip and jump away from your lodge? Where species such as whales, dolphins, beach-loving elephants and lemurs can add to your bush experience? Have a look at a list of our favourites.
As the name suggests, Addo is famous for its elephant sightings, but recent years have seen the park expand to include the Woody Cape Nature Reserve, the Alexandria dune field and a marine portion extending to St. Croix Island and Bird Island. Thus, Addo is the only place in Africa where visitors can see the ‘Big 7’ – the ‘Big 5’ plus dolphins and whales.
Addo Elephant National Park offers visitors the chance to see the Big 7 (the Big 5 plus dolphins and whales), presenting a rich wildlife-viewing experience
The greater Addo ecosystem extends to several private reserves offering all the bells and whistles of the conventional safari experience, with the bonus of being just a short drive from the magnificent Eastern Cape coastline.
For breathtaking views and luxurious chalets, check out Kuzuko Lodge, bordering the national park.
Addo offers long stretches of beach and dense bushveld
iSimangaliso Wetland Park, South Africa
“iSimangaliso” translates as something “wonderous” or “miraculous” in Zulu, the perfect description for this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hippos abound in the lake systems and reedbeds, while buffalo, rhinos and elephants graze across coastal dune plains and leopards and lions lurk in the thickets.
Traditional fish traps at Kosi Bay
Offshore migrating humpback whales breach, and from November to February, loggerhead and leatherback turtles drag themselves up the long stretches of sandy beaches. From snorkelling to safari and the Big 5, the massive iSimangaliso Wetland Park has it all.
Herds of elephants frequent Isimangaliso’s waterways
Kosi Forest Lodge offers an affordable escape amongst the rich biodiversity of the area. At Makakatana Bay Lodge, guests can explore the ecological gem by boat from within the world heritage site. Or try Thonga Beach Lodge, situated deep in this wilderness of white beaches, blazing corals and freshwater lakes.
Isimangaliso Wetland Park is known for rich marine life, lake systems dotted with hippos, and picture-perfect beaches
The beach with added safari
Maputo Special Reserve, Mozambique
Mozambique is famous for its spectacular coastlines with soft white sands and crystal-clear waters. It is the perfect spot to settle in the shade of an overhanging palm tree with a cocktail in hand.
The picture-perfect beaches of Maputo Special Reserve
However, venturing further inland, intrepid explorers will find a wide variety of wildlife, including elephants, buffaloes, giraffes, and a plethora of antelope species. A founding population of cheetahs were also recently released into the park. For a pristine base from which to explore both the bushveld and beach of Maputo Special Reserve, check out barefoot-luxury beach lodge, Anvil Bay.
Maputo Special Reserve offers a variety of wildlife, making this the ultimate beach and bushveld destination
Hermanus, South Africa
Nestled against the Olifantsberg Mountains and surrounded by nature reserves, the charming seaside town of Hermanus is the complete package. It is famous for whale-watching, shark diving in Walker Bay, and strips of rugged and rocky coastline give way to long stretches of sand.
Hermanus is famous for whale-watching, and long stretches of sand
Not far from Hermanus lies the city of Cape Town, known for its spectacular hikes that look down over the world-famous beaches. Table Mountain National Park, Cape Peninsula National Park, Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens and several other protected areas display the best of the region’s indigenous flora and fauna, making this a nature lover’s playground.
The safari-style suites at Mosaic Lagoon Lodge, on the edge of the Hermanus Lagoon, border a bird sanctuary and offer many special and picturesque spots for photography enthusiasts.
The picturesque coastline of Hermanus
Incredible coastal wilderness
Loango National Park, Gabon
Nowhere better epitomises the meeting of bushveld and beach than Gabon’s Loango National Park, renowned for its ocean-frolicking hippos and beach-loving forest elephants. Imagine watching the sun rising over the sea as forest buffaloes snooze in the distance in the sand. Away from the beaches, the forests of the Congo basin extend as far as the eye can see, hiding a precious population of Western lowland gorillas in their midst.
Loango National Park is known for its beach-loving forest elephants
Skeleton Coast, Namibia
The beaches of the Skeleton Coast mark the point where Namibia’s inland wilderness tumbles towards the perfidious, icy currents of the Atlantic Ocean below. Admittedly, this is no place to settle on a beach towel with a suitably light novel, but the eldritch setting is astonishingly beautiful. Even more remarkable in this desolate setting, the Skeleton Coast is home to desert-adapted lions, elephants, rhinos, brown hyenas and jackals. Their ability to eke out an existence under such extraordinary conditions truly encapsulates the resilient spirit of wild Africa.
Striking Shipwreck Lodge is the perfect escape for enjoying game drives in search of desert-dwelling fauna, and days spent beachcombing.
The Skeleton Coast offers striking desert landscapes, vast beaches along the cool Atlantic, and interesting wildlife including desert-adapted elephants, and lions
Nosy Komba, Madagascar
Madagascar is an island of fascinating evolutionary oddities and myriad diverse travel experiences. Unbeknown to most, its beaches rival those of the more conventional, tropical island paradises like Seychelles or the Maldives.
Nosy Komba is a tropical paradise
The best place to enjoy them is on one of the volcanic islands on the country’s northernmost tip. Nosy Komba is unofficially nicknamed the “island of lemurs”, as the densely vegetated interior is home to a vital population of endangered black lemurs. This otherworldly escape will delight wildlife enthusiasts and beach lovers.
With specials such as black lemurs and exquisite marine life on offer, Nosy Komba is a must-visit for wildlife enthusiasts and beach lovers alike
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Magnificent Matusadona + Giraffe return to Iona
There are leopards in my garden and I think this could end badly – for one particular leopard. Let me explain.
I live in a wildlife estate on the border of the Greater Kruger; leopards come and go as they please. That’s one of many joys of living here. Lizz and I let them be, keep our dogs safe and just get on with it.
But respectful co-existence is not enough for some people. One estate resident not far from us built a waterhole meters from their back porch (not permitted in terms of the estate rules), rigged up infra-red cameras and offered video feeds for Facebook friends. A well-known female leopard got used to bringing her two cubs to the waterhole – and they would hang out. One of those cubs is now all grown-up and hanging around the estate – he recently killed two pet dogs and has been seen following people walking their dogs in the estate. There are many such illicit waterholes on our estate – influencing wild animal behaviour.
What if he kills a child? I bumped into him when cycling recently – and he was very relaxed in my presence – a mere 25m away.
Habituating leopards, be it a commercial tourism strategy to meet client expectations, or for some personal need, has many implications and layers. My observations above relate to leopard habituation to people on foot in residential wildlife estates and leopard attraction to dogs as food, whereas here is an interesting article about habituation for tourism purposes.
Where will this end for this leopard? Whether he remains here or moves elsewhere with domestic dogs and enthralled humans on tap, I fear this will not end well for him.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
Post publishing edit: I changed ‘lights’ to ‘infra-red cameras’ and ‘live streaming’ to ‘video feeds’. I also added, ‘There are many such illicit waterholes on our estate – influencing wild animal behaviour.’
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
On the shores of Lake Kariba in northern Zimbabwe lies a remarkable piece of African bushveld: Matusadona National Park. Once dogged by rampant poaching, this park is fast on the way to becoming one of Zim’s top safari destinations. Matusadona is also the site of one of the most extensive wildlife relocations in history, with the famous “Operation Noah” putting the park on the map. Read more about this top safari spot in our first story below.
In another, more recent, relocation, giraffe have returned to Iona National Park, Angola. This week, 14 Angolan giraffe made the long journey from Namibia to their historical range in Angola as a part of a long-term plan to restore and enrich the biodiversity of this sublime wilderness area. Read more in our second story below.
A safari in South Africa offers the world in one country and delivers on most safari bucket lists requests – from the Big 5 icons and lodges of Greater Kruger to the beaches and cosmopolitan buzz of Cape Town. Start planning your South African adventure with the help of our third post below.
Bush or beach? We’ve got it all: from the floodplains of Kafue to the island paradise of Mozambique. Our safari experts are on standby and ready to book your trip:
Ultimate Kafue safari – from US$ 6,680 pps
Visitors to Zambia’s vast Kafue National Park are treated to magnificent displays of Africa at its most spectacular through the miombo woodlands and across verdant floodplains. Explore this extraordinary wilderness and its waterways, encountering the park’s abundant wildlife along the way. Our packages showcase the best that Kafue has to offer.
Stay 4, pay 3 at Santorini, Mozambique
Nestled above the red cliffs of Kingfisher Bay in Vilanculos, Santorini’s unfurling view of the Bazaruto Archipelago in the distance is unsurpassable. Santorini is like a small Greek village in the heart of a raw African landscape – a magical combination. Stay 4 and Pay 3 in 2023 and 2024 (excluding 20 Dec-10 Jan). Your stay will include a complimentary private snorkeling trip to Margaruque Island.
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
We all know that the beak/bill shape of birds is related to dietary function: the sharp, hooked beaks of the avian predators, the stabby, harpoon-shaped beaks of herons, the flat, spoon-like bills of many waterfowl and so on.
But did you know scientists have found a strong correlation between beak shape and nesting material? Think of the variety on display – most raptor chicks hatch onto a perilous platform of sticks held together by a wish and a prayer, while the tiny hatchlings of sunbirds enter a delicate world wrapped up in spiderwebs. Hammerkop chicks grow up in a veritable mansion, while the most that a baby plover can hope for is learning to fly before it gets stepped on.
The point here is that animal behaviours and physical forms are shaped by millennia of selective pressures that are not necessarily as obvious as they first appear.
Save a pangolin
Yet another pangolin has been treated by Provet Wildlife Services in the bushveld town of Hoedspruit, near Greater Kruger.
This time, the patient, a female pangolin, was found caught on an electric fence. Her arm was severely damaged and required intensive treatment and bandages for over three months. This lucky girl has recovered well and is now able to use her arm for foraging and feeding again.
Thank you to all who have generously donated and joined the fight to save these pangolins. Without your support they would not receive the vital emergency care provided by Provet. Learn more here.
Note all pangolins are housed at offsite locations for security purposes
WATCH: When you’re a plant, it’s not easy to make sure your seeds are spread far and wide and safely buried. Unless you can trick a dung beetle into doing it for you… (02:24). Click here to watch
It’s got mountains; it’s got rivers; it’s got sights to make you shiver… There is something intensely gratifying about watching wild animals do something purely for enjoyment. Swimming elephants are the perfect example as they bob and wrestle in the water, using their trunks as built-in snorkels. For the elephants of Zimbabwe’s Matusadona National Park, Lake Kariba dominates their landscape like the world’s wildest swimming pool, there for them to plunge into at the end of a hot, dry day.
The carousing elephants of Matusadona National Park paint a carefree picture that belies the intense work going on behind the scenes to secure the park’s future. Yet, for all its challenges, Matusadona seems set to reclaim its rightful place as a top safari destination in one of Africa’s most spectacular wildlife regions. For more top African safari destinations, click here.
Matusadona National Park
Matusadona National Park lies on the southern shore of Lake Kariba in northern Zimbabwe, consisting of over 1,400km² (140,000 ha) sandwiched between the Sanyati Gorge to the east and the perennial Ume River to the west. The park’s character is defined by its magnificent scenery imparted by an unusual combination of engineered geography and natural geology. The vast flats of the floodplains and grasslands rapidly give way to the steep wooded slopes of the Matuzviadonha Mountains. These mountains form part of the undulating Zambezi escarpment and tower some 700 metres above the Zambezi Valley floor, dominating the park’s southern horizons. The name “Matusadona” derives from a colonial mispronunciation of “Matuzviadonha”, which, in turn, roughly translates to “fallen dung” – probably a reference to the region’s longstanding status as an elephant paradise.
It would perhaps be deceptive to describe Matusadona as a “pristine” wilderness, given that its most prominent geographical feature is Lake Kariba, the world’s largest artificial lake (by volume). Instead, it is a fascinating illustration of how human forces can shape a landscape, but nature will eventually adapt around it. However, at the time, the construction of the Kariba Dam and the gradual taming of the mighty Zambezi River necessitated one of the most extensive wildlife operations in history. From 1958 until 1964, Operation Noah facilitated the movement of 6,000 wild animals – from elephants and rhinos to birds and snakes – away from the rising waters. The vast majority were relocated to Matusadona National Park.
Elephants enjoying the deep waters of Lake Kariba
It seems impossible to imagine that such a slight to the very fabric of the Zambezi Valley could be endured with such natural grace, but some 60 years later, nature has rebounded. The lake has become part of the landscape, creating an atmosphere, not unlike that on the shores of one of Africa’s natural Great Lakes. Its water levels have a tremendous cyclical effect on the life surrounding it. On its banks, rich and nutritious grasses flourish during times of low water, providing myriad herbivores with plentiful grazing. Away from the floodplains, the thick mopane and Combretum woodlands of the Zambezi Valley floor hide the park’s browsers. Only the ghostly skeletons of a drowned forest rising from the waters serve as a reminder of the lake’s history while simultaneously furnishing the perfect backdrop for dramatic photography.
Matusadona is home to large herds of buffalo
Out of sight…?
Operation Noah put Matusadona on the map, and the park earned a reputation as one of Africa’s elephant strongholds. However, the park has always been somewhat off the beaten track. As Zimbabwe plunged into political instability, Matusadona dropped off all but the most dedicated radars. The park’s rugged terrain and limited manpower, financial resources and infrastructure made protecting it almost impossible. Rampant poaching wiped out the black rhinos and severely reduced the elephant population. Fortunately, the inaccessibility favouring the poachers hindered agricultural ingress, and the park’s habitat integrity has remained intact.
In 2019, the non-profit organisation African Parks partnered with the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority, signing a 20-year agreement to take over the management of Matusadona. While the park’s larger animals have suffered the abuse of the past, the fact that much of Matusadona’s diversity has endured offers a unique opportunity for restoration. In keeping with African Parks’ well-established methodology, increased security, improved community relations and carefully planned wildlife reintroductions will secure the park’s long-term future and allow Matusadona to live up to its phenomenal potential.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
Lake Kariba is the world’s largest artificial lake
Matusadona is full to the brim
The intervention of African Parks was well-timed, and the park remains one of Zimbabwe’s wildlife tourism destinations. Naturally, elephants are the park’s most iconic residents. Not much can top the sight of these magnificent pachyderms frolicking in the lake or dwarfed by the vast floodplains surrounding them. Herds of waterbuck, zebra and impala dot the shore, while hippos and crocodiles inhabit its waters (hence why it would not be a good idea to follow the elephant’s example into the water!). Leopard, wild dog (painted wolf), spotted hyena, eland, sable and roan antelope are all inhabitants.
Many crocs call Lake Kariba’s waters home
Matusadona is home to substantial herds of buffalo, though their numbers over the years fluctuate depending on the lake water levels (and thus available grazing). At one point some 50 years ago, increased grazing supported enormous numbers of buffalo, feeding what was then one of the highest densities of lions in Africa. However, as water levels rose to flood parts of the grasslands, the buffalo numbers declined, as did the lion population. Since then, environmental and human pressures have kept lion numbers low. However, around 40 or so of these iconic big cats reside within the park.
While their numbers are not substantial, about 40 lions roam Matusadona
It should come as no surprise that with such diverse habitats, the birding in Matusadona is thrilling for experts and amateurs alike. Fish eagles are ubiquitous, as are many other water-loving birds, including herons, storks, egrets, cormorants and darters. African finfoots inhabit the Sanyati Gorge in the east, while the eastern Ume basin provides the perfect habitat for nesting marabou storks and vultures. Trumpeter hornbills regularly pass overhead, uttering their child-like cry, and, with a bit of luck, the tiny Kittlitz’s plover may even perform its broken wing display. Brightly coloured kingfishers and bee-eaters complete the avian feast for the eyes.
Water-loving birds such as saddle-billed storks are prominent in Matusadona
Explore & stay in Matusadona
Want to go on a safari to Matusadona? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.
For the wildlife enthusiast, the best time to visit Matusadona is during the dry season, from June until October. As the smaller pools and rivers begin to dry up, animals are drawn to the edge of Lake Kariba, setting the scene for some spectacular sightings. However, by September and October, temperatures can easily top 40°C during the day. Those that enjoy safaris beyond the search for the Big 5 will enjoy the rugged beauty of the green season from November onwards. While temperatures are still high, migrant birds arrive, and baby animals are everywhere. The gathering of cumulonimbus clouds of the first summer thunderstorms over the lake also offers the chance for some breathtaking photography.
Matusadona is a park that encourages more than one approach to its exploration. Of course, there are the standard open-vehicle game drives, but Zimbabwe is home to some of the best walking guides in Africa, and it would be a shame to miss out on the opportunity to wander this magnificent wilderness. Of course, water-based activities are essential, and visitors can opt for a slow boat cruise to take in the scenery or a more thrilling canoe safari past elephants feeding on the lake shore. Though the park is somewhat off the more traditional Zimbabwean safari route, it is most easily accessed by air or boat. There are also several beautiful luxury lodges, some neatly positioned on a private island. There are campsites for the more budget-strapped, and hiring a houseboat and mooring in one of the park’s scenic lagoons for a night or two is also an option.
What could be better than sundowners alongside the lake?
Final thoughts
As a safari destination, Matusadona National Park faces some stiff Zimbabwean competition where names like Mana Pools National Park, Chitake Springs and Hwange National Park have become the stuff of legend. However, Matusadona’s history is a testament to the potential of this remarkable piece of African wilderness. In the capable hands of African Parks, there is no question that the park is heading towards an extraordinary future.
Giraffe have finally returned to Iona National Park, Angola, after a long absence. This week, 14 made the long journey from a private game farm in central Namibia to their historical range in Angola.
The Giraffe Conservation Foundation (GCF), African Parks and the Government of Angola collaborated to relocate the animals to Iona National Park and bring back Angolan giraffe to the area. The Angolan giraffe is considered a subspecies of the southern giraffe, and is found in small populations in Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and now, once again, Angola. The successful relocation forms part of a long-term plan to restore and enrich the park’s biodiversity.
After their capture in Namibia, the animals travelled over 1,300km before their release in Angola on 5 July. The reintroduction will help restore Iona’s ecosystem and re-establish the region’s ecological processes, as giraffe assist in shaping the vegetation through browsing and dispersal of seeds due to their selective feeding habits.
The animals being captured on a game farm in central Namibia
“By reintroducing giraffe to their historical range, we re-establish their range, ensure their long-term survival and contribute to restoring the ecological balance in the region,” says Stephanie Fennessy, executive director and co-founder of GCF.
Before the move, a feasibility study was conducted by a Namibian student from the Namibia University of Science & Technology and GCF. The study evaluated the source population of the animals, habitat suitability, human dimensions, risks during and after the operation and financial feasibility. African Parks also surveyed the communities in and around the periphery of Iona to evaluate perceptions of the proposed giraffe translocation. The assessment revealed that most Iona inhabitants are highly receptive to the presence of giraffe in the park and the safari tourism potential they may bring.
A truck carrying the precious cargo arrives in Iona National Park
“The reintroduction of giraffe to Iona marks a critical moment in the park’s history,” says Pedro Monterroso, Iona park manager. “These graceful animals will contribute to the restoration of the park’s biodiversity and serve as a symbol of Angola’s commitment to conservation.”
Whilst giraffe populations, in general, have declined in the past 35 years due to habitat loss, poaching, and other human-induced factors, recent targeted conservation efforts have seen positive effects, and several populations have started to rebound. The successful translocation of the animals to Iona is a testament to the importance of cross-border conservation efforts for protecting Africa’s biodiversity.
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Rhino dehorning impacts + Ethiopian wolves + Great Migration
Just say no. A rant.
When your travel agent offers a visit to any establishment that offers touching a wild species as entertainment – say no. When your child wants to ‘save’ lions, tigers or cheetahs by volunteering at a big-cat breeding or cub-petting facility – say no. When you are asked to donate to any charity or facility that offers petting or walking with wild species – habituated or not – say no. Elephant-back riding or chimp cuddling – no. Do the research beyond the glossy brochures and claims of conservation benefits such as research and re-introduction to the wild, ask pointed questions and say no if there is any element of touching as a benefit for visitors or volunteers. It’s that simple. Most of these abusive facilities are in South Africa – check out this valuable resource to inform your decisions. If you are not yet convinced of the insidious evil of the captive big cat industry in this country, scroll down to watch this week’s featured video.
So, a few days ago, a little sparrowhawk joined me in my home office. She hurtled in after mistiming an attack on red-billed firefinches and blue waxbills at the garden bird bath. No harm done; she was duly caught and released – after giving me her most threatening glare. Life is good 🙂
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
We have a rhino-poaching crisis on our hands, and dehorning has emerged as one of the vital strategies in curbing incidents of poaching. But for years, many have wondered what impact dehorning has on the individual rhinos that have faced the chainsaw. A new study suggests concerning implications for black rhinos. Read our first story below.
In the Serengeti and Maasai Mara ecosystems, an incredible spectacle unfolds as large herds of wildebeest and zebra embark on their tireless quest for sustenance and water. Our second post below celebrates the wonders of the Great Migration, outlining the best safaris on offer for witnessing the Greatest Show on Earth.
High up in the Ethiopian Highlands, amidst the spectacular massif of sharp crags and cliffs, lives one of Africa’s most unique animals: the Ethiopian wolf. This stealthy canid is the most endangered carnivore in Africa. Fortunately, there are still places where these wolves are thriving. Read all there is to know about Ethiopian wolves in our third story below.
Botswana salt pans – 4days/3nights – from US$945 pps
Embark on a safari against the backdrop of one of Africa’s most hauntingly beautiful landscapes. From the stark figures of ancient baobabs and the imposing forms of elephants, to habituated meerkats and zebra migrations, this tour of the world-famous salt pans in Botswana – Makgadikgadi Pan and Nxai Pan – goes far beyond the average “Big 5” safari to create a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Stay at Kaya Mawa, Likoma Island, Lake Malawi
Beach-front lodge Kaya Mawa is hidden away on Likoma Island in Lake Malawi – one of Africa’s best-kept secrets. This fresh-water lake is surrounded by gorgeous beaches and interesting fauna and flora, including the greatest diversity of fish anywhere on the planet. All internal flights and transfers (from the nearest international airport) are included when you book a minimum of 4 nights for travel in 2024.
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Lately, my nights have been filled with a series of vivid and bizarre dreams, none of which I can remember in any great detail when I wake. If I had more faith in the mystic and the occult, I might be rushing to a dream guide or offering up prayers to Morpheus in search of understanding, but as it is, I suspect they are just a product of exam-brain. (Fourth year of veterinary science has proved challenging!)
The mysteries of slumber occupy researchers studying many different species. Last year I told you about dreaming spiders, but did you know that there is a strong possibility that octopuses dream too? Neuroscientists have found remarkable similarities in the brain patterns of sleeping octopuses and humans, including a REM-like state. Like the spiders (and dogs, cats, and people), the octopuses twitch and move their eyes around. However, the best part is that they also rapidly change colour – putting on a fascinating display of patterns that flicker over their skin. It is really quite beautiful.
WATCH: Blood Lions, the award-winning documentary exposing the terrible truth behind the cub-petting, predator-breeding, canned lion-hunting and lion-bone industries in South Africa, is now available free to view on Youtube. Check it out (1:24:40). Click here to watch
In an effort to address the rhino poaching crisis of the past two decades, removing the horns of at-risk rhinos has become a vital prong of anti-poaching strategies across southern Africa. However, a new study has shown for the first time that dehorning may change the natural behavioural ecology of black rhinos.
Black rhinos are primarily solitary animals living within delimited home ranges and are generally considered less gregarious than their larger white rhino relatives. Previous studies have shown that horns directly affect territoriality and agnostic activities. This is particularly true for male-male interactions, with one study indicating that males with larger horns dominated 65% of encounters. Thus, removing their horns can influence competition for mating rights, territory and, ultimately, their social demography. There is a growing body of research on the effects of dehorning on rhinos, yet prior to this study, little was known about its long-term impact on black rhinos in particular.
The paper’s authors analysed 15 years’ worth of rhino sightings from ten reserves in South Africa (from 2005 to 2020). This included temporospatial data from 368 individual black rhinos and all natural and poaching mortalities. During that time, the percentage of dehorned black rhinos increased from 0% to 63% across the study sites.
Dehorning rhinos is considered an essential anti-poaching strategy in Southern Africa
They found that home range size of individual animals decreased by an average of 45% of their previous size. The effect was most pronounced in females, with a 53% reduction compared to 38% in males. Individuals sometimes lost as much as 80% of their previous territories. Further investigation from three of the study sites with robust data (Ithala Game Reserve, Phinda Private Game Reserve and Manyoni Private Game Reserve) also revealed a significant decline in the frequency and strength of social interactions, especially between bulls. The researchers speculate that this decline may be due to increased feelings of vulnerability in dehorned rhinos, causing them to retreat into smaller territories and avoid confrontation. However, the scientists acknowledge that they could not evaluate the exact mechanisms behind the behavioural changes.
The authors highlight at least three reasons these behavioural changes could have “cryptic but powerful population-level consequences” for black rhinos. First, dehorned individuals may be forced into “ecological traps” in poorer-quality habitats. Second, decreased social interactions could alter their dominance patterns and reproductive success. And finally, with decreased home ranges and reduced explorative behaviour, dehorning black rhinos could reduce recruitment (the addition of individuals through immigration or birth and maturation) in new landscapes. Furthermore, the changes brought about by dehorning could significantly impact the calculation of the carrying capacity of reserves.
However, it is essential to note that the study found no link between dehorned rhinos and increased mortality. Dehorned black rhinos are no more likely to die of natural causes (for example, in a fight between individuals) than those still possessing their horns. Poaching mortalities also declined across all ten study sites, though the authors do not believe this data is sufficient to infer a causal relationship between dehorning and poaching. They point to several other variables that would have influenced poaching rates, including increased security measures and COVID lockdown regulations.
Final thoughts on rhino dehorning
There are many variables and parameters to consider when evaluating the impact of dehorning on the individual well-being, social demography and overall population dynamics of rhinos. These include everything from stress hormone levels, breeding intervals, calf mortality, home range, and habitat usage. Ultimately, the choice of what to analyse will significantly affect the conclusion about the potential harm of dehorning the rhino population (none, slight, significant). Long-term population effects may also take several years to manifest, meaning we are only now in a position to start observing them. Furthermore, inferences cannot be drawn from research conducted on one species of rhino (white or black) and applied to the other. However, every piece of research on dehorning – both in terms of its efficacy as a poaching deterrent and its effect on the animals – will add another piece to the puzzle.
Dehorning a white rhino in Greater Kruger
There can be no question that removing rhinos’ horns (whether white or black) will impact them in some way. It is more important to establish the severity of these effects so that the costs can be balanced against the potential benefits. As the authors conclude: “While dehorning may yet prove to be an essential anti-poaching measure, it must be implemented with extreme caution and be accompanied by rigorous monitoring to understand its long-term impacts.”
More than half of Africa’s rhinos are in private hands. With rising protection costs, what will it take to build a resilient private industry? Read more on the importance of private-sector rhino conservation here.
Rhino poaching continues to decimate Kruger National Park’s rhino populations. Read more on the latest rhino population figures here.
High upon the Afroalpine plains of Ethiopia’s Bale Mountains, a big-headed African mole-rat raises its head cautiously out of its tunnel. Showing off an impressive pair of incisors, it glares myopically at the surroundings from beneath a deep-set brow before venturing forth from its bolt hole to feed. The mole-rat has good reason to be so vigilant – it occupies one of the last bastions of Africa’s most endangered and intriguing carnivores: the Ethiopian wolf. And they are expert rodent killers.
The Ethiopian wolf
Ethiopian wolves (Canis simensis) are handsome, russet-coated canids found only at altitudes above 3,200 metres in the Highlands of Ethiopia. As unusually specialised predators, they have the lamentable honour of being the most endangered carnivore in Africa and the rarest canid species worldwide. Given their particular habitat preferences, it is unlikely that Ethiopian wolves ever occurred at high numbers or densities, but due to anthropogenic pressure, their populations are now highly fragmented. Today, Ethiopian wolves are restricted to a handful of isolated mountain enclaves, threatened by encroachment and disease. This understandably dominates most of the available commentary on these unique animals.
One regrettable consequence of their conservation plight is that the more nuanced aspects of their evolutionary history and fascinating ethology are often overlooked. Yet, the Ethiopian wolf is a marvel in its own right – a creature closely related to Eurasia and North America’s more familiar grey wolves but with a distinctly African twist. Millions of years ago, as canid ancestors trotted in from Asia and Europe to the welcoming lands of Africa, some of them gravitated to a less hospitable realm. Largely freed from competition with rival predators, the ancestors of the Ethiopian wolves found themselves in rodent heaven on the “roof of Africa”.
The cursorial hunting techniques so popular with many large canid species (like grey wolves or the African wild dog) are of little use on the sparse Afroalpine plains. Thus, Ethiopian wolves adopt a more patient, almost feline approach to hunting. They stalk through the heath and grasslands, using keen hearing to pinpoint rodent burrows. When a suitable target is identified, the wolf will wait for the rodent to emerge before leaping into the air and descending serval-like from above. By necessity, this hunting style is a one-wolf job, and Ethiopian wolves are predominantly solitary hunters (though interestingly, they often hunt within large herds of foraging geladas). However, there are rare instances when packs band together to hunt larger prey like the calves of mountain nyala.
Ethiopian wolves are stealthy and solitary hunters
Quick facts
Height:
53-62cm
Mass:
Males: 14.2-19.3kg
Females: 11.2-14.1kg
Social structure:
Packs
Gestation:
60-62 days
Conservation status:
Endangered (formally Critically Endangered)
Ethiopian wolves are found only at altitudes above 3,200 metres in the Highlands of Ethiopia. Check out more images from @chriswdc here
Wolf, jackal, or fox?
Like the African wild dog (painted wolf), the Ethiopian wolf has several alternative (and potentially confusing) monikers. They are sometimes referred to as Simien foxes, Simien or Ethiopian jackals, Abyssinian wolves and even a horse’s jackal (a local name supposedly in reference to their habit of consuming the expelled placentas of post-parturient horses and cows).
In terms of size and shape, Ethiopian wolves are not dissimilar to coyotes, though lankier and with longer muzzles. Their ambush-based hunting habits resemble smaller canid species like jackals, while their social structures are unequivocally wolf-like. And finally, their ochre-hued coats are positively vulpine.
Perhaps this foxy colouring led Oscar Neumann, a German naturalist of the early 20th century, to describe the Ethiopian wolf as “only an exaggerated fox,” but Oscar was to be proven mistaken. We now know that the Ethiopian wolf’s closest African relative is the African wolf (Canis lupaster), an animal which, until 2015, was thought to be a golden jackal. What’s more, the ancestor of the African wolf was a genetically admixed canid of 72% grey wolf (Canis lupus) and 28% Ethiopian wolf ancestry. To put it simply, as far as we know, the Ethiopian, African, and grey wolves, together with coyotes and golden jackals, all evolved from the same common ancestor. The Ethiopian wolf is the most basal member of that group, meaning that it diverged early on, about a million years before the rest. All species appear to be sufficiently closely related to hybridise and produce fertile offspring.
Family groups vary in size, from an average of six pack members, up to 20 individuals
Wolf pack
Ethiopian wolves have pack structures similar to both grey wolves and African wild dogs. The family groups may number up to 20 individuals, though they are generally smaller, with an average of six pack members. These packs occupy territories (the size of which varies depending on rodent populations), and all individuals contribute to the defence of these territories through scent-marking, vocalisations and aggressive interactions.
A breeding pair monopolises the reproductive affairs of the pack, and the remaining females are reproductively suppressed. Furthermore, the breeding female will only accept the advances of her pack mate (or males from other groups if she happens to sneak away). The helpless pups are born into an underground den, and it will be three weeks before they emerge to peer out at their new, chilly world. Raising the next generation is a team undertaking, with all wolves helping protect and feed the pups (view a gallery featuring the antics of a young Ethiopian wolf pack here). Subordinate females may even lactate and help suckle larger litters.
At around two years of age, subordinate females tire of life under their mother’s reproductive tyranny and disperse in search of a new pack – either forming their own with a suitable dispersal male or integrating into an existing one.
Ethiopian wolf pups emerge from the den at around three-weeks of age
Keeping the wolf from the door
Most available reading on Ethiopian wolves suggests their current range is limited to seven mountain populations. However, this is dated information, and the situation is likely worse than most realise. The last formal population assessment came in 2011 when the IUCN Canid Specialist Group suggested that they are now extinct in Mt. Gunda in South Gondar (one of the seven listed remaining ranges). Only a handful of wolves remained in the North and South Wollo Highlands at the last count in 2000. The Simien and Bale Mountains (sections of which are protected by eponymous national parks) are the last remaining population strongholds of Ethiopia’s wolves.
For the most part, direct persecution has not contributed enormously to the decline of the Ethiopian wolf, as they very seldom prey on livestock and thus do not represent an immediate threat to farmers. They are also well protected under Ethiopian law. It is habitat loss that has driven them to the verge of extinction. The wolves are designed to thrive at high altitudes in particular habitats, and over 60% of all land above 3,200 metres in Ethiopia is now farmland.
Worse still, with people comes disease in the form of canine distemper and rabies spread via domestic dogs. Many of Africa’s large carnivores (including lions, wild dogs and Ethiopian wolves) are incredibly susceptible to these highly fatal viruses, and they can spread like wildfire in social species. In the already tiny populations of Ethiopian wolves, the effects of an outbreak can be devastating to the point of local extinction. An additional challenge posed by domestic dogs is the ability of the two to interbreed, endangering the already dwindling genetics of the wolves.
An Ethiopian wolf, tagged for research purposes, in the Bale Mountains
Final thoughts
As canids spread across the globe millions of years ago, their versatility and opportunistic natures proved a recipe for success. But the more specialised they became, the more vulnerable they were to the impact of humans. For the Ethiopian wolves, their niche requirements combined with the inexorable advance of people, farms and the associated dangers have been disastrous.
Fortunately, there are still places where the wolves are safe and thriving, and concerted conservation efforts have seen them reclassified from “Critically Endangered” to “Endangered” – one step closer to ensuring the future for Ethiopia’s exquisite and unique wolves. To book your African safari to see Ethiopian wolves in the wild, click here.
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Water safaris + marvellous wildebeest + ultimate Botswana
It’s that time of year here in Southern Africa when crepuscular temperatures are somewhat crisp, the static air is bone-dry, trees are bare, and the remaining grass is like straw. It’s safari time! Well, actually all year is safari time, but this is the favourite time of year for many to visit Africa. Wildlife is easier to find because of the lack of vegetation cover and their need to find water.
We are receiving more last-minute requests than usual (a sign of the times?) – which are often challenging to fulfil because many lodges are fully booked during peak safari season. Of course my team will bust a gut to find your desired safari experience at short notice, BUT did you know that the BEST time of year for epic wildlife encounters is late in the dry season – September to mid November (before the short rains)? The dry is at its peak, temperatures are rising and there is an air of desperation to proceedings. This is when I choose to do bushtime. Drop us an email for advice and to plan your late dry-season safari.
Meanwhile, here at home on the Greater Kruger border our nights are filled with lions, leopards and hyenas calling and elephants trumpet-squealing. While Verreaux’s eagle-owls and southern white-faced owls provide a soothing background audio. Life is good.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
There is an Africa to be explored beyond game drives and bush walks: an Africa buzzing with incomparable vitality. Along the continent’s rivers, streams and lakes, you will find a distinct kind of safari, one that celebrates the very lifeblood of the land. In our first story, we’ve compiled a list of the top water safaris to experience in Africa, from gliding down the waterways of the Okavango Delta, to floating down the Chobe on a riverboat or kayaking the Nile.
They’re the subject of many a dream safari – the unlikely heroes of an epic African adventure. And not for nothing do thousands of visitors head to witness them in action during the Greatest Show on Earth. This week, we pay homage to the wildebeest. See our second story below.
Lastly, as host to the Okavango Delta, Chobe, Savute, Makgadikgadi and more, Botswana is the ultimate safari destination that offers a complex web of wildlife habitats to satisfy even the most demanding traveller. We’ve put together everything you need to know about a safari in Botswana.
Languages evolve in weird and wonderful ways, along with a host of colourful idioms and expressions. Naturally, animals feature heavily in these creative turns of phrase, occasionally perpetuating some rather glaring misconceptions.
For example, did you know that most bats have keen eyesight, with some even postulated to see better than humans? Obviously, different species use this sense in combination with echolocation and smell depending on their diet, but no bat is truly blind. So the common simile “as blind as a bat” is way off the mark and probably arose from their erratic flight patterns.
Likewise, owls do not have a penchant for wisdom and goldfish actually have a rather remarkable memory.
THE SNARE SCOURGE
In our forum: The illegal practice of setting snares to hunt animals is a widespread problem in Africa, posing a risk to biodiversity. In South Africa’s Western Cape, snaring poses a serious threat to leopards. The Cape Leopard Trust (CLT) is developing a multi-pronged strategy, including research, conservation and education, to grapple with this complex issue.
Read more about how CLT is addressing snaring & attempting to combat the scourge.
WATCH: The country of Gabon aims to protect 30% of its land, ocean, and freshwater habitats by 2030, and is emerging as a conservation leader in Africa and globally (03:37). Click here to watch
Every year, a sense of anticipation hangs over the grassland savannahs of East Africa. A light breeze ruffles yellow grass that stretches as far as the eye can see over rolling hills dotted with sparse trees. Hungry predators lounge in the shade, watching, waiting… Then a dark form appears on the horizon, followed by another and another until the looming wall of lowing animals begins to descend into the first valley. The herd is on the move – the wildebeest are coming.
Colourful characters
Compared to the graceful kudu, winsome nyala or even ubiquitous impala, the wildebeest is not an antelope appreciated for its natural beauty. It is an ungainly-looking creature with a front-heavy body and an aquiline nose that does not inspire portrait photography. Indeed, apart from the spectacle that is the Great Migration (to book your African safari to see the Great Migration, click here), few visitors to Africa are content to spend more than a few passing minutes observing wildebeest. Yet beneath the rather homely exterior beats the heart of one of the toughest animals on the continent, and their social interactions can be profoundly entertaining for those who stop to enjoy them.
Blue wildebeest. Wildebeest are reputed to be able to reach speeds of up to 80km/hour and have exceptional stamina
There are only two species of wildebeest – the well-known blue/common wildebeest (Connochaetes taurinus) and the black wildebeest (C. gnou) of southern Africa. The Connochaetes genus falls under the family Bovidae and subfamily Alcelaphinae, making their closest relatives the hartebeest, hirola, topi, tsessebe, blesbok and bontebok antelopes. Fossils of blue wildebeest indicated that they evolved at least 2.5 million years ago. Analysis of mitochondrial DNA suggests that black wildebeest diverged as a separate species in southern Africa around 1.5 million years later.
The unmistakable fawn tail and tilted horns of a black wildebeest
Blue wildebeest are found throughout much of East and southern Africa in various habitats, from dense woodland to floodplains. In contrast, the black wildebeest is found only in South Africa, Lesotho, and Eswatini in open grasslands and Karoo scrub. Though the two do not generally overlap, each species is distinctive and relatively easy to distinguish from the other. The most obvious difference is the shape of the horns – in blue wildebeest, these extend outwards from either side of the head before curving upwards at the tips. Those of the black wildebeest project forward towards the muzzle and then loop vertically. As the names imply, the coat colour is another distinguishing feature. However, the black wildebeest is more of a rich chocolate brown than black, and the colouration of the blue wildebeest varies depending on region and subspecies.
Differences in distribution and behaviour are usually sufficient to prevent the two species from interbreeding in the wild, but they have been known to hybridise to produce fertile offspring. The calves of both species are born tawny and will only start showing their adult colours after a few months.
Nominate species: blue/common wildebeest ( t. taurinus) – southern Angola, Namibia, Botswana, South Africa, Zimbabwe and southwestern Zambia
Nyasaland wildebeest ( t. johnstoni) – northern Mozambique to central Tanzania
Eastern white-bearded wildebeest ( t. albojubatus) – northern Tanzania to central Kenya
Western white-bearded wildebeest ( t. mearnsi) – northern Tanzania to central Kenya, west of the Gregory Rift Valley
Cookson’s wildebeest ( t. cooksoni) – Luangwa Valley in Zambia
Wildebeest migration madness
No article on these antelope would be complete without mention of the Great Migration of East Africa, where over a million blue wildebeest make their never-ending circular journey through the Mara-Serengeti ecosystems. Their quest for fresh grasses drives them onwards in enormous herds through predator-rich savannahs and across crocodile-infested rivers. It is a chaotic and often adrenaline-tinged phenomenon as hungry big cats, wild dogs (painted wolves), and hyenas throw themselves into the melee with joyous abandon to take advantage of this annual glut of prey. When not diving headlong off plunging riverbanks or leaping out of reach of snapping jaws, the herds gather on the plains from horizon to horizon, grunting, lowing and snorting at each other constantly. It is a sensory extravaganza for visitors to one of Africa’s greatest spectacles.
“Swarm intelligence” – some scholars theorise that large herds of migrating wildebeest cooperate to overcome obstacles like rivers. But it is hard to identify patterns in the chaos
However, few people realise that Africa was once home to many such migrations. These have been stopped in their tracks over the centuries by fences and human encroachment (this is true for almost all large herbivore species, to some extent). Though perhaps not on the same scale, black wildebeest also migrated from the Karoo scrublands to the grasslands of South Africa’s highveld during the wet season. Similarly, many blue wildebeest herds in different ecosystems would have covered massive distances depending on rainfall and grass availability. Some of these migrations have survived, like that between Tarangire National Park and Lake Manyara National Park in Tanzania, albeit involving far fewer animals. The removal of some veterinary fences in Botswana also allowed zebra and wildebeest to resume their yearly journey between the country’s Okavango Delta and Chobe ecosystems to the Boteti River and associated salt pans. Other wildebeest migrations have all but collapsed, such as the migration of the Athi-Kaputiei ecosystems in Kenya and, due to veterinary fences, the movement of an estimated half a million wildebeest through Botswana’s Central Kalahari Game Reserve. Given the impact of the Great Migration on the habitats and inhabitants of the Maasai Mara and the Serengeti (everything from food provision to supplementing phosphorus in the rivers), there is no question that the loss of these migrations must have a profound effect on the ecosystems they left behind.
It is also important to note that not all wildebeest migrate, even in areas known for their migratory events. Sedentary populations are found throughout the range of the blue wildebeest, including the Mara, Serengeti and Tarangire. In these populations, dominant males maintain small, set territories throughout the year while breeding herds and groups of non-territorial bachelors move across more extensive home ranges.
A massive herd attempts a river crossing
Bewilderbeest*
Wildebeest are not considered among the great thinkers of the African plains, but that does not detract from their entertainment value, even at the more “ordinary” sightings. When large herds gather in their thousands, the constant contact grunting creates a din that resounds in one’s ears long after the day has ended. During the rutting season, these are interspersed with the hilarious groans of the males looking to establish a temporary territory of just a few square metres. They do this through threat displays and the occasional clash of horns, all while trying to keep half an eye on the females wandering into their little patch. By the time a male has seen off an opponent, the females have usually ambled away, and the whole process has to begin again.
The males of sedentary populations defend permanent territories, with the most coveted being around waterholes. The lord of any such desirable patch stakes his claim through scent marking, which he deposits by rubbing facial glands on suitable trees and scraping the pedal gland between the toes on the ground. His efforts will be rewarded by a more regular presence of breeding herds.
Males locked in a territorial battle
Whether migratory or sedentary, wildebeest are seasonal breeders, and up to 90% of the calves are born within a three-week interval. The timing of the birthing season is regionally dependent, with southern African calves born around the beginning of December and birthing reaching its peak in February in East African populations. The wobbly brown calves are quick to find their feet and, despite the precarious nature of their very existence, are exceptionally playful and clownish.
Want to see wildebeest in the wild or follow the chaos of the Great Migration? Get in touch with our travel team to discuss your safari – details below this story.
* Our use of the term “bewilderbeest” with credit to the late Sir Terry Pratchett
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Magical Mana Pools + African civets
Africa’s safari destinations and their charismatic creatures offer the chance to escape from reality, but few match up to the magic of Mana Pools. Beyond lions dwarfed by towering forests, large herds of elephants, lily-covered ponds, and regular encounters with African wild dogs, Mana Pools offers catharsis for the soul. Irene Amiet visited the famed area in Zimbabwe to photograph the other-worldly wilderness of this Zambezi kingdom. Check out her photos and read more about her experience in our first story below.
And then… They’re the silent phantoms of the African safari, the bandits of the bushveld – stalking the night and eluding all who seek them… Our second story takes a closer look at the African civet, one of the continent’s more mysterious mammals. Not often seen, these fierce and agile predators should not be overlooked. Find out why.
We have TWO safari specials to choose from this week. Get in touch with our safari experts and YOU could soon be jetting off to incredible wild places.
Botswana Classic: fully catered mobile safari – Special rate – US$6,238 pps
Explore all of northern Botswana on a fully catered MOBILE safari. Beginning in Maun and ending in Kasane and led by experienced guides, you’ll track big cats and wild dogs, and meander along the Chobe River. Book this authentic Botswana safari experience today and don’t miss out on this special high-season rate of US$6,238pps, valid from 21-31 Aug 2023.
Stay at Kisima Ngeda Camp, Lake Eyasi, Tanzania
Kisima Ngeda Camp is nestled in a thick stand of doum palm and fever tree forest under a rocky granite hill overlooking the seasonal Lake Eyasi, Tanzania. Book your stay and meet the Hadza tribe in an immersive cultural experience. Stay 5 nights and pay for 4 – valid all year round!
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Did you know that pangolins’ tongues extend all the way through the thorax to their last ribs? These they use to lap up termites and ants during their nightly myrmecophagous feasts.
Except, of course, when poachers find them. Then they are thrown roughly into sacks and go for days without food or water; their well-being and even survival of little interest to those seeking to trade their scales. By the time they are rescued (if they are rescued), their little bodies are traumatised and desperately depleted.
The toll of caring for these forlorn rescues is immense, both from an emotional and physical point of view. They require intensive medical intervention and, if their lives are saved, weeks and months of rehabilitation before they can be safely returned to the wild.
Read on to learn about another extraordinary rescue, and then please join me in donating to their cause. Every little bit counts in the fight to try and right the wrongs wrought upon these innocent animals.
Save a pangolin
Another pangolin has been rescued! The little male was confiscated in a recent sting operation near Hoedspruit, just outside Greater Kruger. The pangolin was severely emaciated and has now begun the slow process of medical treatment and rehabilitation, with help from Provet Wildlife Services. Thanks to all who have already supported our campaign to assist these pangolins.
Consider donating to Provet to assist in intensive cases like these which require thorough and in-depth medical care.
Please note all pangolins are housed off site for security purposes.
WATCH: For the first time in 150 years, lions are once again roaming the rolling hills of Babanango Game Reserve, in Zululand, South Africa. In this historic move, two male lions have been reintroduced onto the reserve, as part of an ambitious rewilding journey (09:48). Click here to watch
As the sun dips below the horizon, painting the sky in shades of burnished sienna, the cast of the graveyard shift begins to stir. Leaves rustle, feathers are fluffed, lions stretch out sleep-stiffened limbs, and somewhere in the distance, a lone hyena whoops. The creatures of the African night emerge to continue the ceaseless dance of survival. Among them, an African civet pads silently along well-trodden paths in search of its next meal – another furtive ghost of the continent’s mysterious darkness.
The bandits of the bushveld
With their bright, intelligent eyes, sharp features, round ears and black markings, African civets are often described as racoon-like in appearance, but the two species are unrelated. The African civet (Civettictis civetta) belongs to the Viverridae family, along with genets and the lesser-known oyans (also known as linsangs) of West and Central Africa. (Despite its common name, the African palm civet is only very distantly related to African civets and belongs to an entirely different family – the Nandiniidae.) African civets are the sole surviving member of the Civettictis genus, the largest member of the Viverridae family in Africa, and the second-largest civet species after the Asian binturong.
While they occur throughout much of sub-Saharan Africa, these curious animals are primarily nocturnal, occupying favoured hiding places in dense vegetation during the day. As a result, sightings are generally brief unless a lodge happens to have a resident civet that moves through it each night. If the opportunity is presented, close observation reveals that civets are oddly lopsided, with disproportionately large hindquarters. Their thick fur is decorated in unique patterns of spots and blotches that merge into bands running down the legs and tail. Masquerade facial markings and a long crest of fur erected when threatened convey the distinct (and accurate) impression that this is not an animal to be trifled with.
Though generally docile, civets are fierce and agile predators, and when cornered, their defensive growl is surprisingly deep and profoundly intimidating. It is also interspersed with an explosive sound described as “cough-spitting”. The well-developed sagittal crest along the top of the skull and robust zygomatic arch provide strong points of attachment for the temporal and masseter muscles, conferring a powerful bite that belies the animal’s stature.
African civets are creatures of the night
Quick civet facts
Height:
40cm
Body length (without tail):
67-84 cm
Mass:
7-20 kilograms (females smaller than males)
Social structure:
Solitary
Gestation:
Around 80 days
IUCN conservation status:
Least Concern
Unpalatable preferences
Civets are creatures of habit at night, moving along regular pathways at a slow, tentative walk with heads held low and relying on an acute sense of smell to guide them to their next unsuspecting meal. They have a broad and indiscriminate palate that extends to small mammals, birds and their eggs, invertebrates, fruit and even carrion. However, it is their taste for toxicity that sets civets apart. Millipedes secrete hydrogen cyanide and hydrochloric acid – a noxious combination that deters all but the most determined predators. Though the mechanisms are not fully elucidated, civets can eat and process these toxins, presumably without any discomfort, as millipedes form one of the main components of their diets. They have also been known to casually snack on the fruits of plants belonging to the Strychnos genus, which contain high levels of strychnine.
This gastronomic flexibility allows civets to utilise different resources and thus reduces competition with other medium-sized carnivores.
Their broad and capable palates reduce civets’ competition with other carnivores
Ode de civet
The munched millipedes proceed as usual through the digestive tract and are eventually deposited in characteristic civettries. These civet middens are unmistakable, decorated as they are with the white exoskeletons of invertebrate prey (and the sheer size of the droppings, which almost defy the physical limits of anatomy). The trees beside civettries and along popular paths are marked with a pungent pale-yellow secretion from large perineal glands known as civetone. Civets essentially live through their noses and have been known to be driven to a rubbing and marking frenzy by strong-smelling objects. Things like rotten fruits attract their attention, and they “neck-slide” against the offending stink, repeatedly smearing their contribution of civetone along the way. Even unsuspecting pangolins have found themselves victims of this scent-induced delirium.
Civetone may be putrid smelling when concentrated, but diluted formulations create a pleasant scent. For this reason, civetone has been included as a base in perfumes for hundreds of years. While today, most commercial perfume companies have replaced civetone with synthetic ambretone, the practice persists, and boutique scents made from civetone remain popular. Most of this natural civetone is sourced from caged male civets in Ethiopia, caught in the wild and kept under appalling conditions.
While, unlike their Asian cousins, African civets have escaped the bizarre tradition of making coffee from beans in their faeces, they are believed to be extensively hunted for bushmeat in parts of Africa. Though the impact has not been thoroughly studied, experts believe that thousands of civets are killed every year in the forests of Nigeria and Cameroon, which could well be contributing to local population declines.
Civets are rarely spotted in daylight hours
The solitary civet
Left to their own devices, civets are solitary, though little is known about the extent of their social dynamics or sex territoriality. A female in oestrus will call to prospective mates with a sound described as a “moaning meow” by biologist Richard Estes. Some 80 days after her amorous songs are answered, she will seek a suitable den site and give birth to between one and four kittens.
Civet kittens are born well-developed compared to other carnivores and are walking within a few days and exploring outside the den at around three weeks old. Adorably, they display what is known as clustering behaviour, where if one gives out a contact call, its siblings will immediately move to join it. They are weaned quickly, eating solid food from about a month old and reaching independence as early as four months.
Find a civet in the wild
Civets favour savannah and forest habitats and are absent from the more arid areas of Botswana, Namibia and South Africa. Though widely distributed, their nocturnal and elusive habits make encountering one in the wild a rare treat. In southern Africa, the dry and cold winter months offer the best chance of a sighting, as the civets are more likely to move at dusk.
Given Africa’s profusion of charismatic animals, it is perhaps inevitable that some of the smaller, more obscure species might be overlooked in all the excitement of a safari. Yet the Africa civet is one of the continent’s unique offerings – a silent phantom that stalks the African night.
After years of exploring Southern Africa’s wildlife havens, Irene Amiet finally had the chance to take her camera to Zimbabwe’s famed Mana Pools National Park. The resulting experience brought enrichment beyond compare. Irene’s gallery of images reflect the other-worldly wilderness of Mana Pools’ buzzing floodplains, nebulous forests and hidden gems.
“Capturing a sense of what we’ve lost in our world of connectivity isn’t always simple. But, every day, on a dusty airstrip somewhere in Africa, a traveller breathes a sigh of relief as they step out into the bush to escape the grind and experience Africa’s wilderness, taking the opportunity to try.
Mana Pools provides more than thriving ecosystems and lily-covered ponds. Its waters dispense nourishment to the tired minds seeking adventure in its mopane woods. The magic of Mana Pools lies in the secretive glimpse it provides into a world almost too manifold to capture visually (to start planning your African safari to Mana Pools, click here). But I was determined to soak up the experience and photograph the extraordinary moments I experienced while there.
While visiting the park, I learn of its trajectory of conservation success. No elephant has been poached in the park in the past three years. The reason? According to Nick Murray, a driving force behind local anti-poaching successes and founder of Bushlife Conservancy, it’s simple: ‘Boots on the ground and proper vehicles’. It comes down to money and means to equip rangers appropriately to do their jobs well.
It’s fitting then that we witness the famous bull ‘Tusker’ in action while visiting Mana Pools. We find Tusker browsing the soft grass on the islands in the floodplains one evening. We watch him from a boat as he towers above us, the last sunlight highlighting his silhouette against the Zambezi Escarpment, creating an unforgettable moment I am pleased to capture through my lens.
As Zimbabwe allows visitors to step out of their vehicles in national parks when accompanied by a guide, the area of Mana Pools along the floodplains, dotted by groves of towering ana trees, provides for artists and photographers in an unparalleled way. Sitting under a mopane tree as elephants approach from a woodland of dusty jade-green, heartbeats don’t accelerate but slow with our breathing. We witness elephants reaching up into the trees, finding seed pots, and breaking off branches. An impala snorts in the distance, and a flock of bright little lovebirds flutters past. Three baboons break the silhouette of trees further down, traced by the sun in gold. For a moment, the world is at balance.”
A young male catches the photographer’s eye through the leavesA flock of Lilian’s lovebirds take flightCrocodiles dot the islands interspersed amidst the Zambezi’s floodplainsTwo bulls are dwarfed by the towering Mana Pools woodlandsA capture of a yellow-billed stork taking off from the ZambeziRadio collars are a helpful tool for monitoring elephant migrations through the Zambezi Valley. Irene and her party spotted Tusker the elephant wearing one of these collarsA young male peers out from the mopane woodsZebras highlighted by the day’s first raysBlue hour on the Zambezi
Resources
Mana Pools is Africa’s iconic park for bushwalking without a guide – renowned for encounters on foot with wild dogs & relaxed elephant bulls. Read everything there is to know about Mana Pools National Park here.
Want to see more of Mana Pools? This fantastic photo gallery capturing the magic of Mana Pools will have you grabbing your camera, packing your bag and booking your African safari with us. See how to book below this story.
In the mirage-like desert setting of |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, the unearthly shapes of strange trees lean longingly north towards the blazing sun. At a distance, they look uncannily like people, and they were once – or so the Nama legend goes. When fierce conflict drove the defeated Nama tribespeople out of more fertile lands in Namibia, they fled to the boulder-strewn desert of the south. Yet for some, the grief and yearning proved insurmountable, and they stopped to gaze back toward their beloved homeland. The gods took pity on these lost souls and turned them into “halfmens” trees (“half-human”, half-plant) to be forever consoled with their last view of home.
These eldritch plants are just one of the many ecological oddities of the rugged and seemingly inhospitable |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park. From an unparalleled array of succulents and an unusual subspecies of zebra to a river oasis and spectacular canyon views, it is a land for adventurous souls and enthusiastic naturalists. With an emphasis on self-sufficiency and wilderness appeal, the park is a place to lose phone signal and find peace beneath the dazzling expanse of the Milky Way.
|Ai|-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park
As the name suggests, |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park straddles the border between South Africa and Namibia. The South African Richtersveld National Park and the Namibian |Ai|-Ais Hot Springs Game Park combine to protect over 6,000 km2 (600,000 hectares) of mountainous, arid habitat. The border between the two countries follows the sinuous curves of the sluggish Orange River – the longest river in South Africa and the only permanent water source in the entire region. On the South African side, the UNESCO Richtersveld Cultural and Botanical Landscape World Heritage Site is contiguous with the southern section of the national park. This vast area is communally owned and managed by the semi-nomadic Nama people, many of whom still follow the day-to-day traditions of their forefathers.
It takes time for the eye to adjust and appreciate the sharp geology and haunting beauty of this corner of Africa. At first glance, it is a remote desert that appears almost surrealistically harsh, baked hard under the searing sun, with some areas receiving less than 50mm of rainfall each year. Yet nature, in its indomitable manner, always finds a way, and the sharp quartz fields, plunging valleys, and sandy plains are bursting with endemic life for those who know where (and when) to look.
The mountains of |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld reflecting in the Orange River
Much of this life is centred around the Orange River valley, an oasis of green where even Cape clawless otters are occasionally spotted frolicking in the murky water. Away from the river, the region’s fauna and flora are sustained by the thick mists rolling off the nearby Atlantic Ocean, floating life-giving water inland to be soaked in and supped up by thirsty desert dwellers. The Nama people call these mists “Ihuries” or “malmokkies”, and they provide a vital supplement to the scarce rains. Though the timing and amount vary, these rains usually arrive in winter over the park’s western section. They, in turn, are followed by an explosion of colour as flowers emerge to drape the landscape in a multi-hued blanket.
The allure of the almost alien landscape is coupled with the thrill of transcending the frills and fancies of modern life. To visit is to humble oneself in a vast and silent wilderness, untamed and all but untouched. It offers the chance to truly vanish “off the grid” – to drive for hours without another person in sight, to picnic on the banks of the Orange River and pitch a tent beneath the inky sky.
In the Richtersveld wilderness, one can explore for days without seeing another soul
Sticks and stones
Strange though it may seem, rocks and plants are the superstars of the |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park experience. Some of the fascinating geological formations date back billions of years, with subsequent layers of rock displaying the history of the Earth’s epochs in an enormous geographic diorama. Massive granite boulders the size of buildings and streaks of blinding white Rosyntjieberg quartzite speak to the power of the ancient forces that shaped the very foundations of our planet. (Indeed, one particular formation even appears to bear the mark of a giant handprint, earning it the name Hand of God.) Moreover, the Namibian side of the park is home to the largest canyon in Africa – the Fish River Canyon (more on this later).
Some of the Richtersveld’s otherworldy mountains are made up of boulders as large as houses
In keeping with the topographical theme, the plant life here is equally hardy and rugged, though nonetheless beautiful in its own way. The botanical hotspot of the Richtersveld is home to thousands of plant species, of which over 30% are believed to be endemic, and some may even be undiscovered. The |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld region is also widely acknowledged by experts as home to the richest array of succulents.
Aside from their poignant mythology, the spikey halfmens trees (Pachypodium namaquanum) are iconic survivors found nowhere else. These rare plants grow during the winter months, facing north to take advantage of available sunlight, and when it rains, the tips are adorned in a headdress of crimson flowers. Equally striking are the towering shapes of the quiver trees (Aloidendron dichotomum), jutting into the sky against the barren backdrop. Charming little rock-like succulents of the Conophytum genus pebble the ground alongside chubby botterboom plants (Tylecodon paniculatus). Botanically, no other desert in the world supports such an abundance of life.
Halfmens trees are found nowhere else on Earth
Though the floristic displays somewhat overshadow the animal life, there are several species of antelope in the park, including grey rhebok, gemsbok, steenbok, klipspringer and kudu, as well as records of elusive caracal and leopard. Keen-eyed visitors may also be fortunate to spot some of the small herds of Hartmann’s mountain zebra – a rare subspecies distinguishable by a well-developed dewlap and stripes extending the entire length of the leg.
Richtersveld National Park
The South African portion of the Transfrontier park consists of several campsites, a network of 4×4 tracks and several seasonal hiking trails. The main entrance to the park can be found at Sendelingsdrift, which acts as the unofficial capital of the park. Here, visitors will find a shop, a swimming pool, the only fuel station, and well-appointed basic chalets with electricity: the last vestiges of civilisation before entering the wilds of the park. There is also a border post here, with a pont available to transport vehicles across the Orange River to the Namibian side of the park.
De Hoop and Richtersberg campsites are positioned on the lush banks of the Orange River, making them ideal for families. The river is crocodile-free, so unsupervised rafting and swimming are permitted, perfect for plunging in to cool off and wash away the day’s dust. Kokerboomkloof campsite lies away from the river, pressed against some of the most exquisite rock formations in the park. And for those that blanch at the thought of erecting a tent and cold showers, Tatasberg and Gannakouriep wilderness camps have chalets with solar-powered lights and gas geysers for the showers.
During winter, visitors can opt for overnight hiking trails ranging from one to three nights in the park. The company of an expert guide is highly recommended, but this is a visceral way to experience the park, encountering an amphitheatre, waterfall, gorges, Tswaies mountains, and springs along the way.
Tatasberg, situated on the edge of the Orange River, offers visitors solar lights and gas geysers
|Ai|-Ais Hot Springs Game Park
Most of the activities and accommodations on the Namibian side of the park are centred around the Fish River Canyon. The name |Ai|-Ais means “burning water” in reference to the springs at the southern end of the canyon. Here, travellers can soak tired muscles and soothe sore joints in the thermal baths.
The canyon is Africa’s largest natural gorge, created by the Fish River, cutting deeply into a plateau over 600 million years. It reaches 160km long, up to 27km wide and around 550 metres deep in some sections. Panoramic views are a given, but it is also one of Namibia’s most popular hiking areas, with visitors opting to explore (or, for some very enthusiastic athletes, run) the entire length of the canyon. (Hiking the canyon must be booked in advance, and permission will only be granted on receipt of a medical fitness clearance.) Within the gorge, hidden caves hide ancient rock art, some dating back over 25,000 years.
Fish River Canyon
Explore & stay in |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld
There is a particular breed of camper for whom no challenge is too great. These are the people with hiking boots practically welded to their feet, equipped with every camping convenience, who can change a wheel with the skill of an F1 pit crew and erect a tent with equal efficiency. |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park is the perfect destination for such intrepid explorers. However, this is not to say that those with less experience should be intimidated; it is simply a matter of preparation.
The winter months, from around May until August/September, offer the best time to visit, both for the chance to witness the short flowering season and because the temperatures are slightly more bearable. This is, after all, a desert, and summer temperatures can peak over 50˚C before plunging towards freezing at night. Route planning is essential, as is a GPS to ensure that the planned route is followed. Throw in two spare wheels, plenty of fuel and an excess of drinking water, and you’re all set to explore the moonscape of the park from top to bottom. Remember not to leave any valuables outside overnight, as the malmokkies may blow in overnight!
A majestic quiver tree – a common sight in the park
Final thoughts on |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld
There is an undercurrent of magic in |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, which makes it possible to believe that perhaps strange plants were men once and that giant hands played a role in shaping the landscape. The improbable biodiversity in this beautiful but harsh landscape is infinitely fascinating, offering the opportunity to embrace Africa in all her weird and wonderful ways.
Few countries in Africa offer birding opportunities quite as magical as the feast served up by Uganda. A birding safari to Uganda provides the chance to rack up fantastic sightings, with more than 1,065 bird species recorded in the country. Uganda’s diverse habitats cover high and low altitude ranges, from afro-montane rain forests and wooded landscapes to grassland savannahs, marshes, papyrus swamps, fallow agricultural lands, lakes and arid areas. The result is an astronomical diversity of birds to see.
When birding and wildlife photographer Col Roberts challenged teamAG’s resident birding pro, Christian Boix, to weave together a month-long birding safari covering the majority of the country’s habitats, AG’s safari experts were thrilled to oblige.
“To make things more interesting, I specified that I was mainly interested in seedeaters – waxbills, weavers, whydahs and parrots,” says Col. “But, how could I refuse other beauties such as turacos, barbets, papyrus gonoleks and the prehistoric-looking shoebill? I also specified I had a limited budget and was happy to stay in mid-to-budget-range accommodation.”
With that, teamAG got to work, and Col was soon off on a birding odyssey across the country, with Lake Victoria (and Mabamba Swamp), Pian Upe Wildlife Reserve, Kidepo Valley National Park, Masindi, Kibale Forest National Park, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Mabira Forest Reserve, Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and Lake Mburo National Park lined up on his itinerary.
Cover image: Great blue turaco in Kibale Forest National Park
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
As home to many endemic and rare bird species, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park is the soul of Uganda birding. About 350 species, including 24 Albertine Rift endemics, can be found within Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.
(Clockwise from top) The lush surrounds of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest; on spotting a dusky twinspot, Col says, “I was advised that the chance of seeing one was low, but our guide Saul picked up their call in a cultivated area near Bwindi’s Ruhija section”; a dusky crimsonwing was high on Col’s list of target species; spotting a Kandt’s waxbill in Bwindi was also a highlight of Col’s Uganda birding trip
Mabira Forest Reserve
Mabira Forest Reserve is the largest natural forest in the central part of Uganda, and hosts about 315 bird species. While conditions for photography can be tricky (as with all forest birding), a trip to the forest guarantees excellent sightings.
(Clockwise from top) The dense thickets of Mabira Forest Reserve; black-and-white mannikins perched on sugar cane, photographed during some farmland birding; a grey-headed nigrita photographed in the forest
Pian Upe Wildlife Reserve
Pian Upe Wildlife Reserve is the largest wildlife reserve in Uganda, hosting more than 242 bird species, including savannah birds, migratory birds and endemics.
(Clockwise from top) “I was fascinated by how the white-crested helmetshrikes searched for food together and flitted about from tree to tree in a group,” says Col; a red-and-yellow barbet spotted while driving between Pian Upe and Kidepo Valley; a red-cheeked cordon-bleu photographed just outside Col’s accommodation at Pian Upe Wildlife Authority bandas
Kidepo Valley National Park
The remote Kidepo Valley National Park stretches across the Karamoja region of northeast Uganda and is home to over 450 species of birds. Vast tracts of savannah are dotted with hills and rock clusters, traversed by the forest-flanked Lorupei River.
(Clockwise from top) White-crested turaco photographed en route between Pian Upe and Kidepo Valley; a sighting of a purple grenadier within Kidepo Valley National Park, not far from the South Sudanese border; a black-bellied firefinch – a reasonably common sight in Kidepo Valley; Kidepo Valley is also a prolific wildlife-viewing destination, with elephant sightings common in the park
Lake Victoria (and Mabamba Swamp)
Lake Victoria is the largest freshwater body in Africa and is home to about 260 bird species. From Entebbe and Lake Victoria, travellers can easily access Mabamba Swamp and its papyrus-lined marshes – for excellent sightings of shoebills.
Col spotted several shoebills while visiting Mabamba Swamp (Lake Victoria); seeing grey parrots in the lush grounds at Karibu Guest House in Entebbe was a highlight of the trip
Kibale National Park
Six Albertine Rift endemics occur in Kibale Forest, and about 375 bird species can be seen across the area’s wetlands, tropical forests, woodlands and savannah.
Col photographed a papyrus gonolek outside Kibale National Park en route to Ntungamo; a sighting of a male red-headed bluebill (left) and female red-headed bluebill (right) in Kibale Forest
Queen Elizabeth National Park
Over 600 bird species have been recorded in Queen Elizabeth National Park across various habitats – from savannah to dense forest, lakes and wetlands. Col visited the south of Queen Elizabeth National Park.
(Clockwise from top) A white-winged widowbird photographed by Col in Queen Elizabeth National Park; Queen Elizabeth National Park also features lush rainforest habitat; and a fan-tailed widowbird also seen in the park
Lake Mburo National Park
Lake Mburo National Park offers epic birding at its lake swamps, Warukiri and Rwonyo. Other habitats include dry hillsides, rocky outcrops and dense savannah. A total of 320 bird species occur here, including papyrus gonolek and shoebills.
(Clockwise from top) The lakes and swamps of Lake Mburo National Park offer excellent waterbird sightings; Col regularly spotted Ross’s turacos while in Lake Mburo NP; Uganda and Lake Mburo, in particular, provided plenty of opportunities for spotting grey-crowned cranes; green-winged pytilias were spotted often amongst cultivated fields and acacia woodlands; a black-crowned waxbill was also high on Col’s list of target species. “They were challenging to photograph amidst the acacias, but persistence paid off,” says Col
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🌟📷 And the winner is… 📷🌟
It seems impossible to believe, but the moment we have all been waiting for is finally here: it is time to reveal the winner, runners-up and highly commended images for Photographer of the Year 2023!
Over the four months of the competition, we received well over 7,000 entries, 361 of which were selected to feature in our weekly galleries. Given the exceptional standard of photographic talent on display, choosing the best of the best was a formidable task. We are incredibly proud of this year’s gallery of champions – congratulations to you all!
I want to extend our thanks on behalf of teamAG to each and every photographer who shared their celebration of Africa with us. Every year, we comment on what a privilege it is to be treated to such a display of artistry, patience, dedication, good fortune and technical mastery of the photographic craft.
Last but not least, leopards may not be able to change their spots, but they may inherit them. In our story below, fascinating research reveals what genetic conclusions we can draw from leopard pelage patterns.
Jamie Paterson – Scientific Editor, Africa Geographic
Are you yearning for a travel fix but not sure where to start? Find inspiration for your unforgettable safari getaway from our featured experiences below:
Chitake Springs – Mana Pools – 6days/5nights – from US$ 4,130 per solo traveller Only two spots left on this epic photographic safari, led by two expert guides and devised for adventurous travellers and photographers seeking raw, untamed wildlife action. There are few better places than Chitake Springs in Mana Pools National Park to witness dry season Africa at its most dramatic. Departing September 2023. The perfect safari for solo travellers, as there is NO single supplement.
Stay at Pelo
Pelo – a remote and charming camp on a heart-shaped island in the Okavango Delta – takes its name from the Setswana word meaning “heart”. A birder’s paradise, this delightful retreat was designed as a light-footprint camp, built using natural materials, operating on 100% solar power and offering low-impact, carbon-neutral activities.
Bucket list gorilla experience
Thank you to the Spencer family for the 5-star review. We are thrilled that you chose teamAG to craft your dream Rwanda safari.
“My family and I have just returned from a wonderful trip to Rwanda to see the gorillas . It was a trip of a lifetime – a bucket list trip that was realised! The sightings of the golden monkeys and gorillas were absolutely amazing and so were the local tours. The guides, rangers and our driver were so professional.
Thank you Christian for arranging an unforgettable trip.”
WATCH: One of those Mara River crossings where the herds just kept coming. What a fantastic experience! Note that the vehicle was not blocking the path of the herds (01:45). Click here to watch
Ladies and gentlemen, prepare to be dazzled as we unveil the highly anticipated winners of our prestigious Photographer of the Year 2023 competition! After careful consideration, we are thrilled to reveal the talented individuals who have best captured the essence of Africa through their extraordinary photographs.
The winner and two runners-up will share the impressive $10,000 prize money, and they and their partners will join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife, Lizz, on the ultimate private safari in the wilderness paradise of Botswana.
This year found us enjoying more high-quality entries in the final selection month than ever before, and this final selection of the winners was a particularly tough one. This gallery of our winners emphasises the gobsmackingly awesome biodiversity of this place. Just wow!
What stood out for us this year was how well our entrants captured movement (sometimes in poor light), and this year we decided to select our top three entries based on that aspect of photography. We don’t decide these things beforehand; each year, the entries lead us down different paths of celebration.
Lastly, a word about the use of artificial intelligence (AI) to enhance and generate photos: we suspect that AI will dominate all photographic competitions going forward – including the submission of computer-generated images – and so we will need to change how we manage our selection process. We have no interest in permitting computer-generated images into our space, but using AI to enhance images is another story. AI will become as much a part of photo editing as Photoshop is now, and it’s up to us to draw firm lines in the sand if we are to continue celebrating authentic photography. Technology-driven change is a constant in this industry, some good and some bad. It is what it is; we will keep working hard to deliver on our promise of celebrating Africa (the real Africa) and doing good. On that note, every photographer in this Winner’s gallery submitted RAW photographic files for our inspection.
Congratulations to every photographer that made it through thousands of entries to appear in our weekly selections, Top 101, Finalists and these Winners. Thanks for trusting us with your beautiful work, and please keep the flag of authentic photography flying high. See you again in 2024!
Capturing this big male lion shaking his mane in such sharp focus is no mean feat. The challenges of rapid movement and early morning light are met with great skill, and the excellent post-production edits create a dramatic yet moody image worthy of our award. The backlit halo of water droplets creates an otherworldly effect.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“‘It’s all about learning to dance in the rains.’ At the line of the equator at an altitude of over 5,000 ft (1,534 m), the Mara rains create a captivating display of water and sun, blending together in a vibrant tapestry of light and shade. This breathtaking phenomenon is rarely witnessed elsewhere but is unknown to many who avoid visiting during the monsoon season. On that particular day, dark rain clouds were gathering, and we decided to venture out in search of male lions as they presented our best photographic opportunity. Fortunately, the Black Rock lion pride had been spotted near our camp earlier that day. We quickly located the pride, consisting of a dozen lions, including two males and a few cubs. The next step involved waiting patiently, peering through the viewfinder in anticipation of capturing the golden moment when the lions would shake off the water from their manes. It was crucial to find an angle with a dark background for the composition, as only against such a backdrop could the flying droplets of water gleam like stars. By utilising a higher shutter speed, I was able to freeze those airborne, luminous droplets, resulting in the captivating image presented here.”
About photographer Remya Warrier
Remya Warrier is a passionate wildlife photographer, naturalist and conservationist hailing from Kerala, India. She completed her wildlife field guiding course in Botswana’s Mashatu Game Reserve in 2018. Her childhood love of wildlife has taken her to various biodiversity hotspots around the world. Remya was settled in Singapore and used to conduct nature walks and talks for kids and adults, spreading flora & fauna knowledge among them. She, along with her husband & friends, also set up a farm in India. There she established afforestation projects that have restored natural water cycles and seen the return of several bird species. In 2021, Remya moved to Maasai Mara, Kenya, to pursue her passion for wildlife photography and conservation initiatives. She also co-founded Rhino Lovers NGO & Osero Sopia River Camp, Maasai Mara, Kenya.
This is the leopard picture that everyone wants to get – that split-second after mating when the male bounces away to avoid the inevitable backlash. The low angle, shallow depth of field and sharp focus capture the moment perfectly and emphasise that unique leopard ability to exude power and grace simultaneously.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“I located these leopards in a tree during the mid-morning. While in the tree, the female leopard would approach the male and nudge him to initiate mating. However, he showed no interest in her. Returning later, I waited for the leopards to descend the tree. After a few hours, they began to show signs of getting active. I had photographed this male leopard before and recognised him as a younger individual. Shortly the leopards began the mating ritual. However, the male’s inexperience seemed to exacerbate their confrontation, and the action and expression were quite intense. Capturing this image was challenging as the light was fading quickly. I used a 2.8 aperture and higher ISO to maintain a fast shutter speed. This image was selected and presented to the president of Botswana from the safari lodge and reserve where it was taken.”
About photographer Kevin Dooley
Kevin Dooley, an award-winning Wildlife and Portrait/Wedding Photographer from Placitas, New Mexico, discovered his passion for photography at age 14 when he received a 35mm camera as a gift. He holds a photographic craftsmen’s degree, a master’s degree, and the prestigious imaging excellence award from the Professional Photographers of America’s degree program. Starting as an assistant and darkroom technician in his father’s portrait studio, Kevin embarked on a lifelong photography career. After serving in the US Navy, he established his own photography studio in Albuquerque, which garnered numerous awards and publications over its 40-year operation until its recent retirement. Africa holds a special place in Kevin’s heart, and he enjoys sharing its wonders with others, teaching about wildlife, trees, and the region’s history. He is also a compassionate humanitarian who uses photography to inspire and foster a love for life and nature.
Few will get to encounter a desert-adapted chameleon in a sandstorm – let alone capture the moment perfectly. The horizontally propelled sand particles ricocheting off the grimacing, slit-eyed reptile creates the scene, and the shallow depth of field and sharp focus do the rest. To lie down to achieve the low-level perspective in a sand storm that could damage your equipment speaks to the authentic journey of a passionate wildlife photographer
Photographer and photo details – read more
“The Namib desert is one of the most extreme environments on Earth, with a complete lack of surface water and temperatures exceeding 45˚C in the daytime. Despite this, life is abundant if you know where to look. Sandstorms are frequent, with winds blowing down from inland mountains that stir up fine sediment and particles. A Namaqua chameleon has to endure the sting of the sand pebbles blowing against its skin while we were lucky enough to escape to the relative comfort of our 4×4.”
About photographer Dewald Tromp
Originally from Windhoek, Namibia, Dewald grew up in a small rural town called Belfast, Mpumalanga. As a child, all his family holidays were spent in the Kruger National Park or camping or hiking. This is where his love for nature was cultivated. Although he works in the medical field, wildlife photography has been his passion for the last 20 years. Dewald and his wife have travelled extensively around the globe to photograph rare and interesting wildlife. Through his images, he would like to influence people to start thinking about conservation and protecting the last remaining wild places on Earth.
The moment of bliss as this old soul fills his lungs is well-captured. We can almost smell the smoke and feel the sensual overload as he is transported into a relaxed state. The low angle and shallow depth of field create distance between him and us; the portrait does not seem to be at the expense of his personal space.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“We had sat down for a rest one afternoon under the shade of some trees while on our walk, and this San elder took out what I first thought was a pipe. It turned out to be his smoking apparatus, and upon closer inspection, it was an old artillery shell. He had just danced himself into a trance last night before passing out, and I was curious if it had something to do with what he was smoking. We swapped, and I took a puff. It was nothing I was familiar with, but it didn’t have any expected effects – it was natural and slightly herbal. We had spent two nights with this San tribe in Xai Xai to understand their lives in modern Botswana better and to experience a taste of what it used to be like. This photograph was taken on Expedition Kalahari, as part of a trilogy on Botswana’s three habitats: the Okavango Delta, the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans and the Kalahari Desert.”
About photographer Alwyn Chong
Alwyn Chong is a photographer based in Singapore, where he also shoots for Leica Camera. He has a passion for black and white photography, and his motivations extend to storytelling through his photographs. He is a self-published photographer of two books: “Odyssey ‘Picturing and Imaging the Okavango Delta'” and “Finding the Other Side, Horizons Upon the Makgadikgadi” which document his expeditions in Botswana (a country that holds a special place in his heart).
There are about 125 mature Perrier’s sifaka left in the wild – making this critically endangered primate the rarest lemur on Earth. As if the task of finding one is not challenging enough, the photographer overcame bright sky, jet-black lemur fur and poor woodland light to create this evocative image of a sifaka seeming to peer out of the abyss of its conservation status.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“This image was captured in the forests of Anjahakely, northeast Madagascar. The hope for the day was to locate and photograph the critically endangered Perrier’s sifaka, not an easy task with an estimated 125 mature individuals left in the wild. Luckily, with the help of local guides, I found them and started shooting. Let me tell you, photographing such dark animals while looking up into a bright forest canopy is not easy. Eventually, after following the lemurs through the rough terrain, one stayed still long enough for me to capture this shot. I loved how the sifaka looked up into the light breaking through the canopy high above. Amazingly we both held still long enough for me to shoot this at a shutter speed of 1/80 of a second, adjusting my ISO to compensate for the dark forest. A matter of seconds after this shot, it had bounded through the trees and was at least 50 metres away. A memorable day in the wilds of Madagascar.”
About photographer Andrew Macdonald
Andrew Macdonald is a freelance photographer and videographer from Scotland who currently resides in Cape Town. He is passionate about all things wildlife and nature, and he hopes that viewers of his work can see the photos and feel them, too, as he tries to capture the most emotive moments. His photography has taken him from his small hometown village in Scotland all the way to the South Pole, and he is always ready for an adventure with his camera in hand.
This layered chocolate cake forest elephant in the middle of a muddy baï seems caught in a moment of indecision. The whiff of humans has triggered a silent alarm, but the protection of cover is some way off. The photographer has perfectly captured the body language of this secretive giant of the dense, gloomy rainforest
Photographer and photo details – read more
Dzanga Baï is one of the most famous gathering places for elephants anywhere on the continent, if not worldwide. This enormous clearing, located deep in the heart of the seemingly impenetrable Central African forest, can be occupied by up to 150 elephants per day as they amble from the surrounding forests into the baï to mine for minerals, paint themselves in the varying tones of earth that are all around the clearing, and socialise. Mining is a key part of the daily ritual for forest elephants, fulfilling a dietary niche, and baïs such as Dzanga are essential in allowing this activity to occur in peace. Whilst photographing the region for an upcoming book, I had the privilege to work there for a couple of weeks and witness the comings and goings of these gentle giants from ground level…some a bit more curious than others!
About photographer Andy Skillen
Andy Skillen has been a wildlife photographer and photojournalist for nearly 30 years, covering natural history on all continents. In addition to books and magazine articles, Andy supplies fine art limited edition prints to collectors worldwide and engages in talks and trip-leading on an international basis. Andy’s passion is conservation, and as such hopes that the places he visits, documents and reports on inspire others to see the wonder in the wild that surrounds them and step up to take an active part in its preservation.
This photograph had us marvelling at how much food can be stuffed into the gaping maw of such a tiny bird – rigid carapace, wings and all! But also about how hard the parents work to fledge their broods. An excellent natural history portrayal that makes us appreciate less popular photographic subjects!
Photographer and photo details – read more
“After a long morning self-drive in Pilanesberg National Park, I decided to stretch my legs and visit Mankwe Hide. This hide, located on the western edge of Mankwe Dam, provides great opportunities for photographing birds and other wildlife. While standing in the hide, I heard the familiar noises of chicks begging for food and found two juvenile white-throated swallows perched on a support beam. They were in an awkward position, the difficult angle making it challenging to maintain stability and focus. Luckily, I did not have to wait long as one of the parents swooped down, resulting in a flurry of movement. I was not sure if I managed to get the shot, but I was delighted when viewing the results on the back camera screen. What a surprise to see the size of the dragonfly caught and fed to the chick!”
About photographer Dustin Van Helsdingen
Dustin, a 39-year-old nature and wildlife enthusiast based in Rustenburg, South Africa, discovered his passion for wildlife photography in 2014 when his wife gifted him a DSLR camera for his birthday trip to a private game reserve. Since then, he has been captivated by the world of nature and wildlife. Regular visits to game reserves have provided him with countless opportunities to observe and capture the behaviour of animals, granting him a deeper understanding and unique perspective of their world. It’s not just about the iconic Big 5; Dustin has developed a newfound appreciation for the beauty of landscapes, trees, insects, and all living things. Through his lens, he perceives the world with a new lens (excuse the pun!).
The swirling mud and choice of black & white combined with the front-on, low-down perspective grabbed the eyes and left us pondering—a marvellous portrayal of this threatened and seldom-seen gentle creature of the seas
Photographer and photo details – read more
“‘ Critically endangered.’ Once a common sight around Africa, dugong populations have drastically declined due to seagrass habitat loss, human pressure, and the potentially devastating impacts of climate change on their main food source. Thankfully, the Lagoons of Abu Dabbab in Egypt still offer refuge for a few of these majestic sea creatures. In August 2022, I had the incredible opportunity to observe a large male dugong feeding in the area. After hours of studying its behaviour, I positioned myself to capture an image showcasing its raw power and beauty as it vacuumed up seagrass amongst the billowing sediment clouds.”
About photographer Francis Glassup
Francis Glassup, a graduate in Oceanography from the University of Plymouth in the UK, is an accomplished underwater photographer whose works have garnered recognition in several underwater photography competitions. With a deep affinity for the ocean, Francis finds solace and fulfilment beneath the surface, capturing captivating moments as he patiently awaits the unexpected. Through his photography, he aspires to raise awareness about the imperative need for robust conservation efforts to protect our precious oceans.
So, how many words is a picture worth? This poignant photograph has a specific raison d’être – to generate international awareness and support for the plight of Central Africa’s primates. The onslaught of poaching for bushmeat, muti and the pet trade threaten the remaining populations of great apes and other primates. We think the photographer has succeeded admirably in his mission.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“Bakossi, a Nigeria-Cameroon chimpanzee (Pan troglodytes ellioti), explores her surroundings with curiosity in the comforting presence of her dedicated caregiver, Queen. Orphaned chimpanzees, like Bakossi, require intensive care and compassion to recover from the trauma of losing their mothers. Shockingly, for every infant chimpanzee captured alive, an estimated 5-10 chimpanzees are killed in the wild. Queen is part of the team at Limbe Wildlife Centre, a rescue and rehabilitation centre focusing on the unique species of Cameroon. With 30 years of experience, the centre provides love and commitment to help traumatised chimpanzees build trust and embark on their rehabilitation journey. Currently, the Limbe Wildlife Centre cares for 41 chimpanzees, 14 western lowland gorillas, 67 drills, and more.”
About photographer Gerard Carbonell
Gerard Carbonell, born in Barcelona in 1999, is a biologist and dedicated conservation photographer. Through his captivating images, Gerard endeavours to deepen our comprehension of the natural world and our intricate connection with it. His primary objective as a photographer is to raise awareness about the significance of biodiversity and its habitats, shedding light on the commendable efforts undertaken by various organisations and local communities to protect them. Gerard’s compelling visual narratives aim to instil a sense of urgency among people, encouraging support for conservation initiatives.
The photographer’s journey to achieve the desired result you see here is what makes this an epic capture. Hannes (our 2021 Photographer of the Year) combines detailed planning, patience, the right equipment and exceptional technical skill to tell the story of a small waterhole in a South African private game reserve.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“After months of monitoring the waterhole, I noticed the spotted genet’s interest in the fish underwater. To capture this moment, I placed a camera in a homemade waterproof housing and triggered the camera from a distance. I utilised three different light sources: a soft light for underwater and two bounce sidelights. I worked on this particular image for a few years: photographs like this need a lot of planning, and you need to know exactly where, when, and how long these animals are in the area. Then, they must do exactly what you hope they will do. That’s why it took me quite a few years to get this image.”
About photographer Hannes Lochner
Hannes Lochner is an acclaimed wildlife photographer with over 15 years of experience. He has produced five stunning photographic books, three focusing on the Kalahari. Hannes dedicated six years of his life to living in the Kalahari and spent hundreds of hours capturing mesmerising images of its unique landscape and enigmatic inhabitants. He then ventured to Botswana’s Okavango Delta, spending two and a half years there with his wife, Noa, who handles the filming for their projects. Hannes is working on his sixth publication, “Once Upon a Time.” The image provided is the cover of his upcoming book, set to be published this year.
Less is more. Tree frogs make delightful photographic subjects, and we receive many fantastic entries displaying them in various poses and locations. This entry stood out for us because the peering frog creates the impression of a show about to start – of actors gathered nervously behind the curtains, peering out at the hushed, expectant audience.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“During our visit to Durban in December 2022, we enjoyed staying near a small stream. I had hoped to spot a little forest tree frog in the area. I could hear their calls every night, but they remained elusive in the treetops. One rainy night, I ventured out and diligently searched until I found a couple of frogs to photograph. Two days later, just after sunset, I spotted this particular frog (having a rough idea of its hiding spot) and seized the opportunity to capture this unique photo. The frog was quite shy, as it was still early evening, creating the perfect conditions for this shot. While they blend seamlessly into their daytime surroundings, these frogs come alive at night, vocally announcing their presence and showing no fear of human scrutiny.”
About photographer Hendrik Louw
Hendrik has been an amateur photographer for the last 24 years and still enjoys it to its fullest extent. His love for photography started with a second-hand camera in 1999 when he joined a photographic club. He enjoys all genres of photography, but his real passion is macro photography. Frogs, mantises, and spiders tend to visit his camera fairly often when in the right environment since he is madly in love with these colourful little creatures. He is also one of the few macro photographers playing with alternative techniques such as wide-angle macro. His macro photography has earned many achievements, including several awards in multiple international photographic competitions. Despite being an amateur, he enthusiastically shares his passion through workshops and participation in photographic congresses. Outside of photography, Hendrik is an environmental manager and climate change specialist.
Who doesn’t like a great predation action photograph? This, too, is a popular theme amongst entries to Photographer of the Year, and for us, there has to be more than blood and crazy eyes. The photographer caught this fast-moving moment perfectly, as the large male topi fights for its life, and the cheetah coalition males combine forces to bring him down.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“These cheetahs are part of the renowned “Tano Bora” coalition, originally consisting of five cheetahs, and we were closely monitoring them as their hunting skills are legendary in the Maasai Mara. On this day, a lone topi approached the cheetahs, triggering their swift transition into hunting mode. While camera settings and tracking skills are important, understanding animal behaviour and terrain is crucial for success. Our guide, Jackson Ronko, skilfully positioned us about 150m away, anticipating the hunt’s trajectory along the ridge line. The cheetahs chased the topi against the backdrop of a clear sky and successfully made their kill. The image captures the moment when the cheetahs brought down the topi, showcasing their hunting prowess to bring down such large prey. Overall, the experience highlighted the importance of knowledgeable guides like Jackson, who can anticipate animal behaviour and position photographers for incredible opportunities.”
About photographer Ivan Glaser
Ivan was born into a family of wildlife and photography enthusiasts in South Africa, where his deep passion for African wildlife and wildlife photography took root at an early age. Sharing this passion through his photography has always brought him joy. In his mid-twenties, Ivan emigrated to Australia and began his corporate career. During those years, his focus shifted away from wildlife and photography as his professional responsibilities and family took precedence. However, in 2019 an extraordinary opportunity presented itself when Ivan joined an Africa Geographic photo safari to the Maasai Mara. Under the expert guidance of renowned Norwegian wildlife photographer Arnfinn Johansen and in the welcoming embrace of Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp, Ivan’s wildlife photography skills radically transformed, reaffirming his love for Africa. Now in retirement, he is wholeheartedly pursuing his lifelong passion for wildlife and wildlife photography. Ivan continues to make regular trips back to the Maasai Mara, hosting guided safaris for small groups of fellow wildlife and photography enthusiasts who share his love for the natural world.
Two things stand out for us about this photo. Firstly, the clarity around the eye of the ground-hornbill. We optimise images for web purposes but rest assured that this image is crystal clear. Secondly, the subject matter – any bird eating a tortoise is an eye-opener for most people, and seeing the tortoise all mushed up in the hornbill vice-grip brings home the message of the ruthless cycle of life.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“As the sun set over the Okavango, I was pressed for time. With Fabio as my guide, we ventured out from Duke’s Camp, aware that daylight was fading fast. In the marshland of the Delta, we unexpectedly came across a group of southern ground-hornbills. Amidst them, I spotted a striking solitary individual perched on a withered branch, its vibrant red collar contrasting with its dark feathers. Seizing the moment, I brought out my camera and aimed. I rarely use continuous shooting in my photography, so I took my time and held my camera as still as possible on a lower shutter speed to minimise blur. Back at camp, eager to review my shots and armed with a rusk and a cup of hot tea, I discovered a surprising detail: the ground-hornbill was feasting on a baby leopard tortoise! Excited, I couldn’t wait to share this remarkable find with Fabio.”
About photographer Jack Swynnerton
Jack Swynnerton, a professional photographer and videographer, was born in Australia but raised in Africa. Coming from a lineage intertwined with Tanzania’s history, Jack’s great-grandfather was the first game warden of Tanganyika (present-day mainland Tanzania), and his connection to the country runs deep. Growing up in Africa, Jack developed a profound affinity for the continent, its diverse cultures, and its people. After completing his high school and tertiary education in Scotland, Jack eventually answered the call to return to his homeland. Armed with newfound knowledge and a love for photography, he embarked on a journey to capture the beauty of Africa in his unique style. Recently, Jack has relocated to Nairobi, Kenya, where he offers his skills to prominent camps and companies in the region. With a passion for showcasing the beauty and soul of Africa, Jack continues to explore new areas and is emerging as one of the rising stars in African photography.
This photograph is a raucous celebration of the gaudy blooms and delicious bounty of the brief boer-bean tree flowering season. The shallow depth of field and crystal focus on the parrot’s eye completes the sense of zooming in on this private moment of party-time gluttony.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“During a family visit to Kruger National Park in August 2022, we witnessed a beautiful sight—a brown-headed parrot feeding on vibrant red flowers. The contrasting colours of the green parrot, red flowers, and blue sky created a picturesque scene. Exploring the campsites on foot provides excellent opportunities for bird photography, and I have been pleasantly surprised by capturing unique moments of smaller animals within the campgrounds. This particular parrot was remarkably relaxed, allowing us to observe it up close as it fed on the flowers. Getting close to wildlife and observing their behaviour is always a remarkable experience, and sharing this special sighting with my entire family brought me great happiness.”
About photographer Joschka Voss
Joschka Voss, a 33-year-old medical doctor from Niederkassel, Germany, has a deep passion for travel, particularly in wild and untamed places, with a special affinity for exploring Africa. His love for these destinations developed during childhood trips to remote locations like Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Okavango Delta, South Luangwa National Park, Hwange National Park, and more. Over time, Joschka’s interest in wildlife photography grew, and he self-taught himself through online resources and tutorials. He always carries his camera when on vacation, eager to capture captivating moments. Wildlife and landscape photography have become cherished hobbies and passions for Joschka, who relies on a Sony Alpha 7RV and Sony Alpha 9, along with the 200-600mm and 100-400mm lenses, for his wildlife photography endeavours.
Seeing giraffes in a sea of sand dunes warps the mind somewhat and makes us question our perception of where the world’s tallest terrestrial animal hangs out. Add to that the curves of their duelling necks against the wavy dune backdrop, and you have a photograph that catches the eye and asks questions.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“The early morning light in the African bush provides exceptional photographic opportunities. While searching for desert-adapted lions in the Hoanib riverbed, the sound of repetitive thudding drew our attention. We discovered two bull giraffes engaged in a fierce sparring match. They took turns ramming their heads and horns into each other or evading the blows, creating a violent yet dance-like spectacle. This intense encounter lasted nearly an hour, and the barren backdrop of the Namib desert enhanced the beauty of their patterned coats as the sun rose over the horizon. Witnessing this extraordinary scene was a truly unique and special experience.”
About photographer Mark Nissenbaum
Mark, a Maxillofacial and Oral Surgeon originally from South Africa, moved to the USA in 2002, but leaving the African wilderness was heart-wrenching. To fill the void, he delved into photography, exploring nature in North America and Southern Africa, taking numerous courses and photo expeditions with professional wildlife and landscape photographers. Nature and landscape photography became his passion, and he finds joy in exploring the natural world with his wife and three sons and capturing its beauty. Mark believes life is an incredible journey, and his goal is to inspire others and foster a love for conserving and protecting our environment through his images.
We do love a bit of blood and gore to emphasise the brutal reality of wild Africa. And this is a fantastic study of why vultures have long necks with few neck feathers. Africa’s clean-up crew are under-appreciated by those who don’t get to see them in action; hopefully, this photo changes that!
Photographer and photo details – read more
“In the heart of the Maasai Mara during the wildebeest migration, we stumbled across a fresh kill and decided to wait for the lion pride’s return to resume their feeding. However, the lions did not reappear. Instead, the skies were soon filled with a flock of Rüppell’s vultures descending upon the carcass, transforming the scene into a frenzy of competition. Amidst the chaos of flying flesh and blood, one vulture stood out, thrusting its entire head into the carcass and emerging drenched in blood. Captivated by its determination, I followed its movements through the lens, aiming to capture a frozen moment of its feast.”
About photographer Michael Stavrakakis
Michael Stavrakakis is an Australian photographer who quickly developed a deep passion for the people, culture, and wildlife of South Africa during his first visit in 2016. Mesmerised by the experience, he decided to make Johannesburg his home from 2017 – 2018, using his free time to explore neighbouring countries and national parks with his camera in hand. Ever since, he has regularly returned to the continent to spend time doing what he loves most – being immersed in the African bush and capturing the beauty of its wildlife.
This epic capture of that geronimo! moment as a wildebeest commits to the abyss celebrates the chaotic melee of the river crossings during the Great Wildebeest Migration. A wonderful capture of a frenetic split-second in time.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“‘One decides, the rest follow.’ The Great Migration is one of the greatest natural spectacles on Earth, and the crossings at the Mara River are chaotic, dramatic, and action-packed. Thousands of wildebeest gather on the riverbanks before one dares to take the first plunge. I remember watching documentaries and looking at photos of this moment, wondering if I would ever have the chance to witness and immortalise the scene. After several years and failed attempts, nature granted me that perfect unforgettable moment—the majestic leap of a wildebeest over the water I had always envisioned. I froze that instant in time, capturing the intensity of the event through the image, allowing us to feel the energy and survival instinct that drives the animals during their migration.”
About photographer Nando Morales
Nando Morales, born in 1982 in Spain, is a passionate photographer who grew up with a deep connection to nature and always showed a great interest in the animals and nature around him. He was gifted his first film camera as a teenager, and his love for nature merged with his newfound passion for photography. He has sought many opportunities to immerse himself in pristine landscapes far from civilisation, but it is in Africa, particularly Kenya, where he found the most magical corner. He always strives to immortalise moments that will profoundly impact the senses of viewers, conveying emotions and telling stories that take them on a journey, enriching their lives through visual experiences. His photographs have been selected for exhibitions, and he has been a finalist in several international photography contests. Although he doesn’t pursue photography as a professional career, he continues to enjoy every opportunity to capture special moments and tell stories through his images. His love for photography and his desire to improve and grow keep him seeking new challenges and opportunities.
The story is in the eyes. Is this the end for me? Grim determination shrouded by the realisation that life may soon end is written all over this youngster’s face as it struggles against an ancient foe. The crocodile, on the other hand, is all reptilian business as it tries to secure another meal. What a story this photograph tells!
Photographer and photo details – read more
“When I arrived at the scene, I noticed several baboons gathered along the dry riverbank of the Tsavo River. I spotted a baboon in a puddle and began to film its supposed bath. Little did I know what was about to unfold…Suddenly, chaos erupted. The baboons began screaming frantically as the baboon in the water tried to escape. It wasn’t a simple fight between baboons but a struggle between the baboon and the crocodile. Each time the baboon tried to move or break free, the crocodile pulled it back into the water, attempting to drown it. The water level in the puddle was low, allowing the baboon to keep its head above the water and breathe. In moments of stillness, the baboon demonstrated remarkable composure, seemingly aware that movement could increase the risk of being submerged in deeper water. It patiently waited for the right moment, inching closer to the edge where it could find more support on the ground. After several attempts, the baboon finally managed to break free. It re-joined the group, and they swiftly departed from the area. The baboon bore several wounds on its face, suggesting that the crocodile had seized it while it was drinking from the river. Throughout the entire sighting, I stood alone, witnessing the intense encounter and capturing this moment on camera.”
About photographer Nicolas Urlacher
Nicolas Urlacher, a French photographer born in 1970, is currently based in Nairobi, Kenya. Despite starting his career as a teacher, his passion for images led him to explore various artistic fields, including cinema, photography, and painting. In 2013, Nicolas seized the opportunity to work as a Spanish teacher at the French School of Nairobi. His focus shifted from reportage to wildlife photography after capturing images of the Samburu and Maasai people. This transition allowed him to unite his passions for photography and nature, and he has dedicated most of his free time to a personal project: creating a bestiary showcasing Kenya’s wildlife. Nicolas emphasises the importance of field knowledge and species understanding in his approach to wildlife photography. He acts as his own driver and spotter in the savanna, valuing the solitude of the bush and the thrill of independently seeking and capturing the animals he wishes to observe.
The last thing lemurs see before their premature end? This photograph perfectly captures the athletic agility of the rarely encountered fossa, even in the arboreal dimension inhabited by lemurs, birds and other prey species. This arresting photo held our attention because of the unusual tree-level perspective.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“I was looking for lemurs near the camp and saw this predator, which had its own plan for them. It didn’t catch a lemur this evening, but I captured its furious intent. The fossa is the largest mammal predator in Madagascar and an endangered species. This animal was photographed in Kirindy Mitea National Park. About 4% of Kirindy Mitea National Park and the nearby Menabe Antimena Protected Area disappear yearly. According to scientific projections, the entire protected area will have vanished by 2050.”
About photographer Sergey Savvi
Sergey is an accomplished wildlife photographer recognised for his captivating images capturing the beauty of nature. With numerous awards and accolades, including participation in renowned exhibitions and festivals such as Golden Turtle, National Geographic, Sienna Awards, and more, Sergey’s work has significantly impacted wildlife photography. He conveys the natural world’s remarkable moments and diverse wonders through his artistry, inspiring others and promoting conservation awareness.
GoPros are often used for up-close-and-personal photographs – because the robust camera can be left in position while the operator retires to a suitable distance. This unusual capture of a perilously-close elephant’s foot with the rest of the herd following on grabs the eye and intrigues.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“Capturing elephants from unique angles on the ground has always intrigued me, especially when photographing their herds. I aimed to add my perspective to the collection of low-angle shots showcasing these magnificent creatures and their strong character. To achieve this, I opted for a discreet tool like the GoPro, allowing me to stay close without disturbing the elephants. The results of this experiment exceeded my expectations, leaving me in awe. The image revealed remarkable details, such as the massive foot—an often-overlooked feature symbolising their strength and resilience. It also showcased the elephants following their matriarch, set against a harsh environment of drought-stricken soil and the vast expanse of the sky. These elements combined to create a moment of intimate proximity that is otherwise hard to experience. Of course, GoPro loved sharing these!”
About photographer Vijayram Harinathan
Vijayram Harinathan, a wildlife photographer hailing from Chennai, India, has been dedicated to documenting the wildlife of East Africa since 2016. His expeditions have spanned various parks in Kenya, with Samburu, Maasai Mara, Amboseli, and Tsavo being his personal favourites. With a longstanding fascination for birds, he embarked on a photography journey in 2010, which has evolved into a profound passion for capturing unique perspectives, characters, and behaviours in the wild. Notable for winning the NaturesBest Mkapa 2022 category, he utilises his images to convey conservation messages and inspire others to explore the wonders of nature. Beyond photography, Vijayram also takes pleasure in reproducing his works as fine art/giclée prints in his own home.
How often do you see a flying hyena? This unusual ground-level perspective of the often-seen melee at a carcass grabs the attention and makes one wonder if they (the hyenas) ever manage to catch a vulture and what they would do with it if they did.
Photographer and photo details – read more
“A group of lions had been feasting on this giraffe carcass for several days. Once they left, the waiting hyenas and vultures eagerly seized their chance. Approximately 30 hyenas and over 100 vultures descended upon the scene, creating an incredibly interactive sighting. The hyenas were constantly on edge, fearing the return of the lions, and would temporarily retreat from the carcass, allowing the vultures to take over. However, the hyenas would quickly return, chasing off the vultures in a playful dance of dominance. Guided by my father’s expertise, we alternated positions under the Land Rover to capture low-angle shots. As luck would have it, I found myself in the right place at the right time, capturing a captivating image of a hyena leaping in the air in an attempt to catch a vulture. The entire experience unfolded in approximately two hours, etching an unforgettable memory in my mind.”
About photographer Wayne Donaldson
Wayne was born in Zimbabwe but spent most of his childhood in the renowned reserves of the Sabi Sands and the Timbavati in the Greater Kruger. His father, the legendary ranger Pat Donaldson, has dedicated his life to wildlife conservation, allowing Wayne and his brothers the unique opportunity to grow up in the African wilderness. 1996 Wayne became a qualified tour guide and co-founded a business with his wife Catherine in 1998. With a specialisation in wine guiding and holding a FGASA level 2 Nature Guide certification, Wayne has honed his skills as a keen photographer. Currently, Wayne focuses on organising and leading privately guided safaris and tours in Southern Africa. When he’s not guiding others, he can be found capturing precious moments of his children on the beach or indulging his passion for fishing.
Research shows that leopards inherit their patterns of rosettes and whisker spots from their mothers
Leopards may not be able to change their spots, but they do inherit them – to an extent. This is according to new research published in Mammalian Biology, which details the findings of scientists who set out to investigate whether images of leopards could be used to draw conclusions about relatedness.
One of the significant concerns with any decline in species population is the accompanying loss of genetic diversity, thus increasing levels of inbreeding and relatedness. This effect is exacerbated as the remaining populations are fragmented and isolated due to habitat loss. Loss of genetic diversity, in turn, makes animals vulnerable to inbreeding depression and offers less resilience in the face of stochastic events like drought or disease. Thus, monitoring the genetic health of a population is a priority for conservationists but can be extremely difficult where cryptic species like leopards are concerned.
Every leopard sports a pattern of rosettes and whisker spots as unique to that individual as a set of human fingerprints. Furthermore, motion-triggered cameras have long proved an invaluable tool for leopard researchers, allowing them to visualise leopards even in areas where the animals are all but impossible to observe directly. Thus, researchers wanted to determine whether or not the phenotypic similarity of individuals (the extent to which they share physical traits) could be used as a “proxy” for genetic similarity.
Whisker spots are are unique to individual leopards. For more photos from Derryn Nash, check out @pdnwildlife on Instagram
To do this, they used images gathered from the Sabi Sand Game Reserve in South Africa. This reserve was selected because records of leopard sightings date back to the 1970s, with detailed life history records of mothers and their cubs. (Paternity in leopards is impossible to establish without genetic analysis, as females will mate with multiple males and cubs in the same litter may not have been fathered by the same male). As a consequence, photographs of known related individuals could be compared.
The authors focused on flank rosette patterns, using sophisticated software designed for image analysis of individual animals (not unlike facial recognition software) to quantify the similarities between leopards. This meant examining characteristics like the number of rosettes, the total area covered, and the angles and distances between spots. They also investigated whisker spot patterns using a scoring method already established for lion identification.
Researchers were able to establish an important baseline on phenotypic variation within a healthy, free-ranging leopard population
They found that mother-offspring pairs showed some phenotypic similarities in rosette markings and whisker spot patterns for six of the 15 traits measured. This finding aligns with similar research on giraffes and cheetahs and provides an exciting insight into the relationship between leopard genetics and their physical expression in pelage patterns. However, these similarities were not apparent across all samples from the population, and the authors conclude that phenotypic similarities cannot reliably be used to draw conclusions on the relatedness of individuals. As such, it cannot be used for biological monitoring.
Inheritance of physical traits is a complicated process, usually influenced by multiple genes and further complicated by environmental effects. The foundations have been laid for further research, along with an important baseline on phenotypic variation within a healthy, free-ranging leopard population.
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Amboseli’s speared lions + pangolins in need
Some artificial intelligence (AI) wisdom for you. I was discussing the state of wild rhinos in Africa with ChatbotGPT, which offered that “Botswana is also home to a significant population of endangered black and white rhinos, which can be found in certain protected areas.“ It also recommended Hwange NP in Zimbabwe as a good place to find rhinos. Not so much, on both counts.
Then, a HUGE thank you to those who responded to our appeal last week to save poached pangolins going through rehab before release back to the wild. You know who you are. Meanwhile, poaching victims continue to arrive. The pang with broken ribs and tail is recovering slowly and has started to forage under supervision – her journey will be a long one. A new male that was brought in this week is going to be in hospital for quite some time as his tail is full of abscesses. And a large male confiscated from poachers has been released back into the wild.
Finally, I leave you with two (related) slices of inspiration:
a warning from the management team of my home wildlife estate: “Dear residents, please be aware that we have increased leopard activity on the estate. Please keep this in mind when walking with your pets.“;
and a quote from the book Where The Crawdads Sing: “It has always been enough to be part of the natural sequence of things.“
Till next week
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Two weeks ago in our newsletter, Simon wrote about the tragic spearing of six lions in Amboseli. They were killed inside the headquarters of Big Life Foundation – an non-governmental organisation dedicated to protecting the remaining wildlife of the Amboseli ecosystem. This week, Big Life CEO Benson Leyian offers his transparent comment on the incident in our first story below.
His account speaks to the devastating circumstances that led to the deaths of the lions but it also tells a tale of success against astonishing odds. Human-wildlife conflict is a veritable gauntlet where the stakes are quite literally life-and-death. It is one of the single greatest threats facing the planet’s remaining wildlife and is only going to get worse as climate change influences weather phenomena.
The grim journey towards balancing the needs of human beings and wildlife is set to be a long and painful one and not every step is going to be forward. What Big Life has managed to achieve in the last 20 years to mitigate this conflict in Amboseli should be lauded. I suggest reading Dr Leyian’s editorial below with a healthy dose of compassion for the trauma experienced by everyone involved.
And on a more cheerful note: are your eyes always drawn to the hills? Do mountains fill your soul with a sense of adventure? Well, Africa boasts some of the most spectacular and unique mountain kingdoms and we have selected some of favourites in our second story for the week. Feast your eyes on their panoramic views and otherworldly scenery.
Next week: brace yourself for the big reveal of our Photographer of the Year 2023 winners!
Story 1 https://africageographic.com/stories/about-those-six-speared-lions-comment-from-big-lifes-ceo/
SPEARED LIONS
Six lions were speared to death by local residents in Amboseli. Big Life CEO Dr Benson Leyian explains what occurred, offers his comment on the complexities of human-wildlife conflict in the area and reaffirms that mitigation strategies are having a positive effect
Since the launch of this appeal, another poached pangolin has arrived at Provet, requiring intensive treatment and care. That is a total of five pangolins in under two weeks. Africa’s pangolins and dedicated veterinary staff need your support. Every little bit counts when it comes to raising the funds essential to saving the world’s most trafficked animal.
Note all pangolins are housed at offsite locations for security reasons
EDITOR’S COMMENT: On Saturday, the 13th of May 2023, six lions were speared to death by angry local residents inside the headquarters of Big Life Foundation – a non-governmental organisation dedicated to protecting the wildlife in Kenya’s Greater Amboseli Ecosystem through a community-based collaborative approach. The retaliatory killings came after the lions killed 12 goats and a dog near Mbirikani town the night before.
In response to Africa Geographic’s coverage of the incident in our weekly newsletter, representatives from Big Life Foundation requested us to publish their transparent account of events. In the following editorial, Big Life CEO, Dr Benson Ntoyian Leyian, explains how the lions came to be killed, the challenge of reducing human-wildlife conflict and the complexities of the issues at play.
No one wants to wake up with a lion in their home. I know because it has happened to me.
I have had lions break into my boma (a Swahili word for an enclosure protecting animals and people). I’ve had them kill my livestock. I’ve felt the resultant anger. I’ve participated in a retaliatory lion hunt.
That was long ago. Today I am the CEO of Big Life Foundation (Big Life), a community conservation organisation based in the Greater Amboseli Ecosystem of southern Kenya. Humans and nature are inseparable here, and we implement a range of conservation programs designed to meet the needs of both.
But I still have livestock, lions still kill them, and I still get angry.
A cow killed by lions on Mbirikani Ranch (not related to the incident referred to in this article). Predation by lions and other wild predators evokes much anger in Maasai communities that rely heavily on their livestock.
On the 13th of May 2023, we witnessed an appalling expression of this type of anger in the form of a crowd that speared six lions to death on a community ranch between the Amboseli and Chyulu Hills National Parks.
A pride of nine lions had entered a boma overnight and killed 12 goats and a dog. They were in an area of dense human settlement, and after being chased from the boma, the lions retreated to the nearest patch of thick bush they could find, which happened to be a revegetation site within Big Life’s fenced headquarters. Big Life community rangers could move some of them out that night, but six remained inside at daybreak.
The Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) and local community leaders soon arrived to meet with Big Life’s senior staff, and the decision was made to leave the lions in the compound. The intention was to wait until the arrival of a vet to assess the potential for translocation. All was calm, and staff from KWS and the Kenya Police Service were on site in case that changed.
News of lions in town travelled quickly, and a crowd soon began to swell, including the irate owner of the livestock killed the night before. The tension was building with each new arrival until, eventually, the collective control snapped. The crowd of about eighty men, most armed with spears, broke through the fence to go after the lions.
Some of the rangers standing in the way were armed, but any gunfire or use of force would have quickly escalated the violence and likely resulted in human injuries or deaths. The rangers stood down, and despite what followed, we believe this decision was the right one.
By the time the dust had settled, all six lions were dead.
A male lion is treated after being speared while killing a goat (also a separate incident to the six lions killed in this article), but succumbed to the injury.
The staff of Big Life are all shaken, and my intention in writing this piece is not to diminish the significance of what happened or to try and explain it away. Those of us working at the interface between humans and wild animals need to be honest and self-critical to progress. Big Life values transparency and welcomes constructive criticism.
In this editorial, I aim to address emerging suggestions that this incident is symptomatic of larger issues and trends and that community conservation efforts in Amboseli are failing. I want to counter this with some context, partly involving the story of one of Africa’s most extraordinary recoveries of a local lion population.
The Greater Amboseli Ecosystem is an area of approximately two million acres (just over 8,000 km2). However, only a fraction of that (around 5%) is protected by National Parks, with Amboseli National Park perhaps being the most famous. There are few fences, and many wild animals, including species such as elephants and lions, spend most of their time on Maasai community-owned lands outside of these formally protected areas.
As a result, conflict between predators and livestock has always been a part of life here. This conflict reached its zenith in the late 1990s and early 2000s, when irate livestock owners, aided by the emergence of poisons like Carbofuran (a carbamate pesticide), drove the Amboseli lion population to near extinction. At least 108 lions were killed between 2001 and April 2006, and while no one knows for sure, the population is believed to have dipped as low as 15-20 individuals in the entire ecosystem.
In response, Big Life and the leaders of the 330,000-acre (1,335km2) Mbirikani Group Ranch came up with the Predator Compensation Fund (PCF) in 2003. The idea of compensation for livestock losses was not new, but the innovative design of this program definitely was.
When a livestock animal is killed by a wild predator, Big Life sends a verification team to the site by motorbike within 24 hours. Evidence is gathered to determine what predator was responsible and what the circumstances were (including whether there was negligence on the part of the herder). The compensation figure payable depends on several such factors, and the livestock owner is issued with a ‘credit note’.
Every two months, these credit notes are redeemed at a PCF payout. That is Big Life’s commitment. However, the community has also made a commitment, which is not to kill predators or face stiff penalties if someone does. If anyone does kill a lion (or any predator), all credit notes for that area are invalidated. Anyone who was owed money doesn’t get it, and any lion killer faces the collective wrath of their community. In addition, the killers must pay a fine of seven cows for each lion killed, a hefty penalty in Maasailand.
The queues at a PCF payday show how many people are negatively affected by livestock predation, and compensation attempts to balance that somewhat. The number of people who stand to lose out if a retaliatory killing happens is large, leading to community self-policing.
With an extensive network of community rangers and undercover informants, almost no predator deaths go unnoticed, and the agreement can be enforced.
Almost overnight, the lion killings stopped. In the one and a half years before the Predator Compensation Fund launched, at least 31 lions were killed on Mbirikani Ranch. By comparison, in the twenty intervening years (prior to this recent incident), only 13 lost their lives to conflict with farmers. That’s a 97% reduction in lion killing. Since 2003, Big Life has compensated the loss of 48,648 livestock to wild predators (the majority were sheep and goats killed by spotted hyenas) across the area covered by PCF (currently 550,000 acres – 2,226 km2). It is an astonishing number, particularly compared to how few predators have been killed in retaliation.
PCF has not been solely responsible for the steep reduction in lion killing: many organisations and interventions have contributed, including Lion Guardians and the Born Free Foundation. However, the ‘available-to-all’ principle of PCF has made it the furthest reaching, and we believe it has been at the core of the behaviour change and increased tolerance of wild predators.
The lions have done the rest. Lion Guardians have identified at least 250 individual lions in the ecosystem today. That’s equivalent to a six-fold increase in lion density. It’s a stunning turnaround, and all the more remarkable that it has been achieved on community-owned land outside of a national park or reserve.
The recovery of the Amboseli lion population is one of the great conservation successes of the modern era, and the sheer number of lions now brings its own set of human-lion co-existence challenges.
And that’s just one piece of good news from Amboseli; the story is similar for other species. In 1978 the elephant population of the ecosystem was approximately 700; today, it is 2,000. Community participation in conservation efforts has been fundamental to these successes, and this participation was recently affirmed when the collective landowners of a million acres (over 4,000 km2) agreed to set aside 31% of their land for conservation areas.
What comes next is always difficult in a situation like this, particularly when attributing blame among a large group of people involved in a chaotic incident. Compensation payments are stopped as per the PCF agreement, but given the severity of this incident, Big Life has stopped funding for all community programs in Mbirikani. Following meetings with the community leaders, it has been agreed that this will remain the case until such time that the main participants in the killings have been identified. In addition to paying the fine that will total 42 cows (seven cows for each of the six lions), all those involved will be disqualified from receiving conservation-related benefits, including scholarships or employment. Whether the culprits will be prosecuted is yet to be decided and is a decision that will be made by the relevant government authorities.
Community conservation efforts are seldom linear. There are steps forward and steps back, and we must learn from both. Co-existence is challenging, but in Amboseli, Big Life is showing that humans and wildlife can share space when conservation programs are designed with the needs of wildlife AND people in mind.
Further context and reading:
The Amboseli-Tsavo-Kilimanjaro ecosystem (or Greater Amboseli ecosystem) in Kenya and Tanzania is one of the most iconic of Africa’s wilderness areas. It encompasses five world-famous national parks: Amboseli, Chyulu Hills, Tsavo East and West, and Mount Kilimanjaro. These parks are unfenced, allowing for habitat connectivity and wildlife movement. However, the Group Ranches between them encompass areas of rural agriculture, homesteads and villages with high potential for human-wildlife conflict.
For more information on the Amboseli Ecosystem, see our article on Amboseli National Park
To learn more about human-elephant conflict in Amboseli, Josh Clay of Big Life Foundation explains the situation in Maasai, Maize & Mammoths
Though not everyone is a born hiker, there is no question that mountains speak to the souls of many of us. From mysterious valleys to towering peaks with panoramic views, there are mountains and massifs in Africa that are simply begging to be explored. We’ve compiled a list of our must-visit mountain kingdoms – selected for everything from their singular scenery to the creatures that call them home.
Amphitheatres, castles and cathedrals:
explore the Drakensberg Mountains of South Africa
The “mountains of dragons” reach the highest elevations in South Africa and stretch along the eastern edge of the country’s Great Escarpment, separating the fringe lowlands from the central plateau. The Tolkienesque landscape, with its vertigo-inducing rock faces and plunging gorges, is a hiker’s paradise, with a network of trails suited to every experience level. It is a land steeped in history and legend, with ancient San rock art depicting scenes of giant serpents and “eland men” and fossilised dinosaur footprints forever etched in rock.
A view over the Drakensberg around Cathedral Peak
Gorillas and montane forests of the Albertine Rift: Virunga Mountains
There are only two remaining populations of mountain gorillas, and, as the name implies, they survive in the cloud forests at high altitudes. Whether the search begins on the slopes of the Virunga Mountains (in either Virunga National Park, Volcanoes National Park or Mgahinga National Park – spanning Democratic Republic of Congo, Rwanda and Uganda) or within the forests of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, finding the gorillas requires a hilly ascent. These mountains are also home to many other natural and geographic treasures, including an assortment of mischievous primates and volcanic crater lakes. To find the ideal gorilla-trekking safari for you, click here.
The Virunga Mountains peeping out above the clouds
Fire and brimstone:
look into the heart of Mt Nyiragongo, DRC
The Virunga Mountains earn their second spot on this list because two of the eight major volcanoes are still active. Mount Nyiragongo in Virunga National Park, Democratic Republic of Congo, reaches a height of over 3,000 metres, and visitors who brave the climb to the summit are rewarded with a view of the world’s largest lava lake as it churns and bubbles. This sight is most impressive at night, so most camp on the crater’s rim, braving its fury for a glimpse of life below the earth’s surface.
Watch the bubbling lava of Mount Nyiragongo in Virunga National Park
Follow in the footsteps of explorers:
Rwenzori Mountains of Uganda
The journey through the mystical Rwenzori Mountains begins at the terraced layers of the foothills and, for experienced climbers, continues to the snow-capped peaks of Mount Stanley at over 5000 metres. Here, alpine scenery meets tropical Africa, and climbers will move first through hardwood forest, and towering bamboo stands before reaching the alien-like vegetation of the Afro-alpine moors.
Explore the Afro-alpine moors of the Rwenzori Mountains
Climb to the roof of Africa in Ethiopia:
Simien Mountains
In northern Ethiopia, a spectacular massif exists where sharp crags and cliffs plunge into sweeping valleys decorated in a gentle palette of brown, green and amber. The primordial landscape of the Simien Mountains is home to some of the continent’s most unique creatures, including the Ethiopian wolf, the endemic Walia ibex and cheeky “herds” of scampering geladas. To the south, the Bale Mountains are equally enthralling, offering the opportunity to explore the fascinating alpine vegetation existing only 3,000 metres above sea level.
The Simien Mountains in all their glory
Summit the legends of Tanzania:
Mt Kilimanjaro and Mt Kenya
The majestic, snow-capped mountain of Mount Kilimanjaro needs little introduction, as every year, thousands of amateur and expert hikers set out to summit Africa’s highest peak. As the climb is not particularly technical, Kilimanjaro is considered one of the easiest of the world’s tallest mountains to tackle. Not far from Kilimanjaro lies its “little brother” – the dormant volcano of Mount Meru. Less crowded than the more popular Kilimanjaro, Mount Meru lies in Arusha National Park, and the trail to the summit offer hikers spectacular wildlife encounters en route up the mountain.
The snowcapped curves of Mount Kilimanjaro
Explore the wilds of Kenya:
Mathew’s Range
The lush riverine valleys and forested slopes of the Mathews Range are an island of green surrounded by the red, arid lands of northern Kenya. This wonderfully remote mountain range is one of Kenya’s best-kept safari secrets. Visitors can explore the forest trails and mountain streams with local guides and encounter some of the region’s unique wildlife.
The lush slopes of the Mathew’s Range
Admire the beauty of Cape Town:
Cape Fold Mountains
Cape Town is unequivocally one of the most attractive cities in the world, nestled between the rugged Cape Fold Mountains and the Atlantic Ocean. From the iconic Table Mountain to Devil’s Peak and Lion’s Head, hiking is a popular pastime for locals and tourists alike. All are crisscrossed by a series of well-established trails which offer the chance to take in the breathtaking vistas and appreciate the unusual flora of the Cape. (And there is always the cableway for those looking for an easy route to the top of Table Mountain.)
An alternative view of Table Mountain
Explore Morne Seychellois:
Mahe, Seychelles
The granite island of Mahé – the largest of the Seychelles islands – rises out of the azure Indian Ocean and continues upwards to its highest point atop Morne Seychellois. 20% of the island is covered by the Morne Seychellois National Park, where visitors can explore the mangrove swamps and jungles before climbing to the island’s highest peak to admire the extraordinary view. (Remember to keep an eye out for the elusive Seychelles scops-owl and Seychelles kestrel on the way up!)
The dense vegetation of Morne Seychellois
Experience ancient Namibian history:
Erongo, Brandberg Massif
In the heart of Erongo (formerly Damaraland), the granitic intrusion of the Brandberg Massif is visible for miles from the flat Namib gravel plains. It takes several days to reach the peak of Namibia’s highest mountain, which can be a hot and challenging hike. However, the effort is amply rewarded by a sense of total isolation, distinctive rock features and countless examples of ancient rock art. En-route, explore the valleys and slopes of the Erongo mountains, and the iconic wildlife found in between.
The Hoanib River Valley cuts through the Erongo Mountains
Meet the oddities of Madagascar:
the Andringitra Massif
The Andringitra Massif is one of Madagascar’s most popular hiking destinations and is considered one of the island’s most biologically diverse regions. Away from the sharp cliffs offering impressive views of the plains below, moist tropical forests on the eastern flanks and dry forests on the west support a wide variety of endemic life, including 13 different lemur species.
Madagascar’s lush Andringitra Massif, situated in Andringitra National Park
Visit a shield volcano on a tropical island:
Piton des Neiges, Réunion
While Réunion is known more as a tropical beach paradise than a hiking destination, it is home to the highest mountain in the Indian Ocean – Piton des Neiges – which reaches over 3,000 metres above sea level. The park’s volcanic landscape is a designated World Heritage Site. The somewhat challenging hike to the summit is usually broken into two days, with many hikers rising early on the second day to watch the sunrise from the peak.
Dare to traverse Piton des Neiges, the highest mountain in the Indian Ocean
* Note: Due to political instability in parts of Ethiopia and DRC, travel advisories may be in place. Chat to our safari experts for guidance – see details below this story.
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Save the pangolins + our Photographer of the Year finalists
Join me in making a tangible difference in the war to save poached pangolins?
Early winter here in the bushveld means that peak pangolin poaching season has kicked off. The evil ones target the most trafficked animal in the world to feed the insatiable appetite in the Far East for imaginary medicinal remedies and culinary fads amongst the wealthy. Sad, disgusting, infuriating.
Last winter I visited a young female pang undergoing rehab here in Hoedspruit before her planned release back into the wild. This fragile cherub died from complications resulting from her being poached, stuffed in a box and kept without food or water for days before she was confiscated and brought to a local vet for rehab. I shed silent tears when I heard the news…
I hope with every part of me that YOU will join me by donating even a modest portion of your hard-earned money to this cause. Please go here to read more and to make a real difference at ground level in the war to save poached pangolins and return them to the wild. A luta continua!
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
Africa Geographic is all about crafting exceptional experiences for ALL varieties of safari enthusiasts. So if you want to inspire your next safari with us, check out some options below.
Akagera walking safari – 8days/7nights – from US$ 3,990 pps
Explore one of Africa’s most remarkable wild spaces in the company of professional wilderness trails guides. This 8-day package will see you walking the 60km north-south length of the Big 5 Akagera National Park in Rwanda. With five nights of rough-camping and two nights in the comfort of lodges, this is a fully immersive experience guaranteed to nourish the soul. Click the link above for a detailed itinerary
Stay at Sentinel Mara Camp – $3380 pps / $4205 per single
Nestled in a forest along the banks of the Mara River, Sentinel Mara Camp is an exclusive, owner-run tented eco-camp. It offers the perfect base to witness the Great Migration or soak in the other wonders of the world-famous Maasai Mara National Reserve. Take advantage of this high season “Stay 5 Pay 4” special, which includes flights! Valid from 01Jun-14Jul & 16Oct-19Dec 2023.
Contact our safari experts at travel@africageographic.com for further details
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
As you may have noticed, generative AI tools and their “creative” content seem to be everywhere at the moment. And while we are probably still some way away from machines taking over Terminator-style, few industries will escape the changes that ever-improving machine learning will effect.
For teamAG, this has particular relevance for our annual photography competition. Sure, there are clues one can look for in AI-generated images, but they are more subtle by the day. This year, and for all future competitions, we will require our winners to submit RAW files before the final announcements are made – for obvious reasons.
And with that out of the way, it is finally time to announce our impressive selection of the Photographer of the Year 2023 finalists! Congratulations to those who made it into the Top 50 – the competition was perhaps the fiercest since its inception. We are entering the home stretch now: the winners will be revealed in the coming weeks, so take a look through the galleries below and see if you can pick them out.
Finally, an answer to a question inspired by our social media community. Did you know that many of the wounds commonly seen on black rhino are caused not by fighting (as is often assumed) but by a tiny parasitic roundworm? You can read all about filariasis below.
A very special message (and a truly entertaining image!) from our clients who recently returned from their Namibian safari:
“It was really good dealing with Africa Geographic, especially when having the perfect attention of Risette, who was able to read and feel our profile and demands as clients perfectly…Everything was so well organized.”
WATCH:Did you know that a pangolin eats up to 70 million ants per year? And that the ground pangolin can climb trees? (00:31). Click here to watch
Ever noticed wounds on the skin of a rhino? This could be caused by filariasis – infection with a parasitic worm
Every year, park authorities of protected spaces across much of Southern and East Africa deal with reports of injured black rhinos from well-meaning and concerned members of the public. In some cases, the injury is a genuine cause for concern. However, most cases involve something else entirely – a nasty, raw-looking, but generally harmless skin lesion. The culprit? A microscopic filarial worm.
Stephanofilaria dinniki belongs to the Filarioidea, a superfamily of parasitic nematodes (roundworms). These highly specialised parasites are spread by blood-feeding insects such as flies and mosquitoes, and many different species can infect people and domestic and wild animals. Infection by these filarial worms is known as filariasis and, if they invade the skin, causes severe dermatitis (inflammation of the skin) and severe itching. In people, they cause elephantiasis – massive swelling and thickening skin.
The open and weeping sores commonly observed on black rhinos (particularly in summer) were a subject of considerable speculation amongst experts for decades. For a long time, the dominant theory was that it was associated with the seasonal activity of secondary sex skin glands. However, in 1960 South African veterinarians and pathologists were finally able to isolate the cause. They collected several tissue samples from the ulcers and found the characteristic serpentine coils of nematodes in the superficial lymphatic vessels and tissue spaces. The surrounding cells – plasma cells and eosinophils (white blood cells) – were a testament to the host’s attempt to mount an immune response to remove the unwanted lodgers.
Fig 1 Extensive filarial-like lesions likely caused by filariasis in (A) a black rhino and (B) a white rhino. Photo courtesy: Mutinda, M., Otiende, M., Gakuya, F. et al
The infestations follow typical phases defined by the somewhat complex life cycle of the nematode. Larval nematodes (termed microfilariae) dominate when the wounds are most florid (red and raw). In the more chronic phases, the mature female Stephanofilaria dinniki burrow close to the surface, with uterine tubes filled with larvae. The inflammatory defensive response of the host’s immune system, followed by healing attempts, results in a fragile and highly vascularised granulation (pre-scar tissue) that bleeds very easily. This is why the wounds are often seen bleeding – even the lightest brush against a tree or rubbing post can damage the tissue. Eventually, the lesions become dormant, but often the damage causes scarring and thickening of the epidermis.
Though the life cycle of Stephanofilaria dinniki has not been conclusively researched, other members of the Filarioidea require an intermediate host, which could explain the seasonal pattern of the sores seen on black rhinos. Newly birthed microfilariae are not fully developed and need to mature in a blood-feeding insect before becoming infective and invading the next definitive host. As flies, mosquitoes and adult ticks are more abundant in the wet summer months, it makes sense that the wounds would be at their worst stage when the microfilariae are more likely to be spread. The open abrasions are attractive to ectoparasites and oxpeckers, which can also delay healing.
Fig 2 Photo showing treatment and sampling of an immobilised white rhino affected by filariasis. Photo courtesy Mutinda, M., Otiende, M., Gakuya, F. et al
Though black rhinos are particularly susceptible to invasions of these parasites, white rhinos, giraffes, and several other wild species have also been found with filarial lesions. However, it is still not fully understood why so few cases involve white rhinos, particularly given that the two species are sympatric across much of their range.
Fortunately, concerned observers of these somewhat painful-looking sores can rest assured that these are generally mostly just surface wounds that will clear up on their own each year.
Travel in Africa is about knowing when and where to go, and with whom. A few weeks too early/late or a few kilometres off course, and you could miss the greatest show on Earth. And wouldn’t that be a pity?
Trust & Safety
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We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level.
YOUR safari choice does make a difference - thank you!
Deep in the heart of the fynbos of South Africa lives a rare orchid, Disa forficaria, which has a fascinating relationship with its pollinator, the longhorn beetle, Chorothyse hessei. From the title of this article, one might think it should come with a PG rating but rest assured – this is simply nature at work in her strange and wonderful ways. The story of how the relationship between Disa forficaria and the longhorn beetle was discovered is fascinating in itself.
The Kavango-Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area has released the 2022 KAZA Elephant Survey results, revealing with cautious optimism that elephant populations within the region are stable.
Remya Warrier is a passionate wildlife photographer, naturalist and conservationist hailing from Kerala, India. She completed her wildlife field guiding course in Botswana’s Mashatu Game Reserve in 2018. Her childhood love of wildlife has taken her to various biodiversity hotspots around the world. Remya was settled in Singapore and used to conduct nature walks and talks for kids and adults, spreading flora & fauna knowledge among them. She, along with her husband & friends, also set up a farm in India. There she established afforestation projects that have restored natural water cycles and seen the return of several bird species. In 2021, Remya moved to Maasai Mara, Kenya, to pursue her passion for wildlife photography and conservation initiatives. She also co-founded Rhino Lovers NGO & Osero Sopia River Camp, Maasai Mara, Kenya.
Kevin Dooley, an award-winning Wildlife and Portrait/Wedding Photographer from Placitas, New Mexico, discovered his passion for photography at age 14 when he received a 35mm camera as a gift. He holds a photographic craftsmen’s degree, a master’s degree, and the prestigious imaging excellence award from the Professional Photographers of America’s degree program. Starting as an assistant and darkroom technician in his father’s portrait studio, Kevin embarked on a lifelong photography career. After serving in the US Navy, he established his own photography studio in Albuquerque, which garnered numerous awards and publications over its 40-year operation until its recent retirement. Africa holds a special place in Kevin’s heart, and he enjoys sharing its wonders with others, teaching about wildlife, trees, and the region’s history. He is also a compassionate humanitarian who uses photography to inspire and foster a love for life and nature.
Originally from Windhoek, Namibia, Dewald grew up in a small rural town called Belfast, Mpumalanga. As a child, all his family holidays were spent in the Kruger National Park or camping or hiking. This is where his love for nature was cultivated. Although he works in the medical field, wildlife photography has been his passion for the last 20 years. Dewald and his wife have travelled extensively around the globe to photograph rare and interesting wildlife. Through his images, he would like to influence people to start thinking about conservation and protecting the last remaining wild places on Earth.
Alwyn Chong is a photographer based in Singapore, where he also shoots for Leica Camera. He has a passion for black and white photography, and his motivations extend to storytelling through his photographs. He is a self-published photographer of two books: “Odyssey ‘Picturing and Imaging the Okavango Delta'” and “Finding the Other Side, Horizons Upon the Makgadikgadi” which document his expeditions in Botswana (a country that holds a special place in his heart).
Andrew Macdonald is a freelance photographer and videographer from Scotland who currently resides in Cape Town. He is passionate about all things wildlife and nature, and he hopes that viewers of his work can see the photos and feel them, too, as he tries to capture the most emotive moments. His photography has taken him from his small hometown village in Scotland all the way to the South Pole, and he is always ready for an adventure with his camera in hand.
Andy Skillen has been a wildlife photographer and photojournalist for nearly 30 years, covering natural history on all continents. In addition to books and magazine articles, Andy supplies fine art limited edition prints to collectors worldwide and engages in talks and trip-leading on an international basis. Andy’s passion is conservation, and as such hopes that the places he visits, documents and reports on inspire others to see the wonder in the wild that surrounds them and step up to take an active part in its preservation.
Dustin, a 39-year-old nature and wildlife enthusiast based in Rustenburg, South Africa, discovered his passion for wildlife photography in 2014 when his wife gifted him a DSLR camera for his birthday trip to a private game reserve. Since then, he has been captivated by the world of nature and wildlife. Regular visits to game reserves have provided him with countless opportunities to observe and capture the behaviour of animals, granting him a deeper understanding and unique perspective of their world. It’s not just about the iconic Big 5; Dustin has developed a newfound appreciation for the beauty of landscapes, trees, insects, and all living things. Through his lens, he perceives the world with a new lens (excuse the pun!).
Francis Glassup, a graduate in Oceanography from the University of Plymouth in the UK, is an accomplished underwater photographer whose works have garnered recognition in several underwater photography competitions. With a deep affinity for the ocean, Francis finds solace and fulfilment beneath the surface, capturing captivating moments as he patiently awaits the unexpected. Through his photography, he aspires to raise awareness about the imperative need for robust conservation efforts to protect our precious oceans.
Gerard Carbonell, born in Barcelona in 1999, is a biologist and dedicated conservation photographer. Through his captivating images, Gerard endeavours to deepen our comprehension of the natural world and our intricate connection with it. His primary objective as a photographer is to raise awareness about the significance of biodiversity and its habitats, shedding light on the commendable efforts undertaken by various organisations and local communities to protect them. Gerard’s compelling visual narratives aim to instil a sense of urgency among people, encouraging support for conservation initiatives.
Hannes Lochner is an acclaimed wildlife photographer with over 15 years of experience. He has produced five stunning photographic books, three focusing on the Kalahari. Hannes dedicated six years of his life to living in the Kalahari and spent hundreds of hours capturing mesmerising images of its unique landscape and enigmatic inhabitants. He then ventured to Botswana’s Okavango Delta, spending two and a half years there with his wife, Noa, who handles the filming for their projects. Hannes is working on his sixth publication, “Once Upon a Time.” The image provided is the cover of his upcoming book, set to be published this year.
Hendrik has been an amateur photographer for the last 24 years and still enjoys it to its fullest extent. His love for photography started with a second-hand camera in 1999 when he joined a photographic club. He enjoys all genres of photography, but his real passion is macro photography. Frogs, mantises, and spiders tend to visit his camera fairly often when in the right environment since he is madly in love with these colourful little creatures. He is also one of the few macro photographers playing with alternative techniques such as wide-angle macro. His macro photography has earned many achievements, including several awards in multiple international photographic competitions. Despite being an amateur, he enthusiastically shares his passion through workshops and participation in photographic congresses. Outside of photography, Hendrik is an environmental manager and climate change specialist.
Ivan was born into a family of wildlife and photography enthusiasts in South Africa, where his deep passion for African wildlife and wildlife photography took root at an early age. Sharing this passion through his photography has always brought him joy. In his mid-twenties, Ivan emigrated to Australia and began his corporate career. During those years, his focus shifted away from wildlife and photography as his professional responsibilities and family took precedence. However, in 2019 an extraordinary opportunity presented itself when Ivan joined an Africa Geographic photo safari to the Maasai Mara. Under the expert guidance of renowned Norwegian wildlife photographer Arnfinn Johansen and in the welcoming embrace of Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp, Ivan’s wildlife photography skills radically transformed, reaffirming his love for Africa. Now in retirement, he is wholeheartedly pursuing his lifelong passion for wildlife and wildlife photography. Ivan continues to make regular trips back to the Maasai Mara, hosting guided safaris for small groups of fellow wildlife and photography enthusiasts who share his love for the natural world.
Jack Swynnerton, a professional photographer and videographer, was born in Australia but raised in Africa. Coming from a lineage intertwined with Tanzania’s history, Jack’s great-grandfather was the first game warden of Tanganyika (present-day mainland Tanzania), and his connection to the country runs deep. Growing up in Africa, Jack developed a profound affinity for the continent, its diverse cultures, and its people. After completing his high school and tertiary education in Scotland, Jack eventually answered the call to return to his homeland. Armed with newfound knowledge and a love for photography, he embarked on a journey to capture the beauty of Africa in his unique style. Recently, Jack has relocated to Nairobi, Kenya, where he offers his skills to prominent camps and companies in the region. With a passion for showcasing the beauty and soul of Africa, Jack continues to explore new areas and is emerging as one of the rising stars in African photography.
Joschka Voss, a 33-year-old medical doctor from Niederkassel, Germany, has a deep passion for travel, particularly in wild and untamed places, with a special affinity for exploring Africa. His love for these destinations developed during childhood trips to remote locations like Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Okavango Delta, South Luangwa National Park, Hwange National Park, and more. Over time, Joschka’s interest in wildlife photography grew, and he self-taught himself through online resources and tutorials. He always carries his camera when on vacation, eager to capture captivating moments. Wildlife and landscape photography have become cherished hobbies and passions for Joschka, who relies on a Sony Alpha 7RV and Sony Alpha 9, along with the 200-600mm and 100-400mm lenses, for his wildlife photography endeavours.
Mark, a Maxillofacial and Oral Surgeon originally from South Africa, moved to the USA in 2002, but leaving the African wilderness was heart-wrenching. To fill the void, he delved into photography, exploring nature in North America and Southern Africa, taking numerous courses and photo expeditions with professional wildlife and landscape photographers. Nature and landscape photography became his passion, and he finds joy in exploring the natural world with his wife and three sons and capturing its beauty. Mark believes life is an incredible journey, and his goal is to inspire others and foster a love for conserving and protecting our environment through his images.
Michael Stavrakakis is an Australian photographer who quickly developed a deep passion for the people, culture, and wildlife of South Africa during his first visit in 2016. Mesmerised by the experience, he decided to make Johannesburg his home from 2017 – 2018, using his free time to explore neighbouring countries and national parks with his camera in hand. Ever since, he has regularly returned to the continent to spend time doing what he loves most – being immersed in the African bush and capturing the beauty of its wildlife.
Nando Morales, born in 1982 in Spain, is a passionate photographer who grew up with a deep connection to nature and always showed a great interest in the animals and nature around him. He was gifted his first film camera as a teenager, and his love for nature merged with his newfound passion for photography. He has sought many opportunities to immerse himself in pristine landscapes far from civilisation, but it is in Africa, particularly Kenya, where he found the most magical corner. He always strives to immortalise moments that will profoundly impact the senses of viewers, conveying emotions and telling stories that take them on a journey, enriching their lives through visual experiences. His photographs have been selected for exhibitions, and he has been a finalist in several international photography contests. Although he doesn’t pursue photography as a professional career, he continues to enjoy every opportunity to capture special moments and tell stories through his images. His love for photography and his desire to improve and grow keep him seeking new challenges and opportunities.
Nicolas Urlacher, a French photographer born in 1970, is currently based in Nairobi, Kenya. Despite starting his career as a teacher, his passion for images led him to explore various artistic fields, including cinema, photography, and painting. In 2013, Nicolas seized the opportunity to work as a Spanish teacher at the French School of Nairobi. His focus shifted from reportage to wildlife photography after capturing images of the Samburu and Maasai people. This transition allowed him to unite his passions for photography and nature, and he has dedicated most of his free time to a personal project: creating a bestiary showcasing Kenya’s wildlife. Nicolas emphasises the importance of field knowledge and species understanding in his approach to wildlife photography. He acts as his own driver and spotter in the savanna, valuing the solitude of the bush and the thrill of independently seeking and capturing the animals he wishes to observe.
Sergey is an accomplished wildlife photographer recognised for his captivating images capturing the beauty of nature. With numerous awards and accolades, including participation in renowned exhibitions and festivals such as Golden Turtle, National Geographic, Sienna Awards, and more, Sergey’s work has significantly impacted wildlife photography. He conveys the natural world’s remarkable moments and diverse wonders through his artistry, inspiring others and promoting conservation awareness.
Vijayram Harinathan, a wildlife photographer hailing from Chennai, India, has been dedicated to documenting the wildlife of East Africa since 2016. His expeditions have spanned various parks in Kenya, with Samburu, Maasai Mara, Amboseli, and Tsavo being his personal favourites. With a longstanding fascination for birds, he embarked on a photography journey in 2010, which has evolved into a profound passion for capturing unique perspectives, characters, and behaviours in the wild. Notable for winning the NaturesBest Mkapa 2022 category, he utilises his images to convey conservation messages and inspire others to explore the wonders of nature. Beyond photography, Vijayram also takes pleasure in reproducing his works as fine art/giclée prints in his own home.
Wayne was born in Zimbabwe but spent most of his childhood in the renowned reserves of the Sabi Sands and the Timbavati in the Greater Kruger. His father, the legendary ranger Pat Donaldson, has dedicated his life to wildlife conservation, allowing Wayne and his brothers the unique opportunity to grow up in the African wilderness. 1996 Wayne became a qualified tour guide and co-founded a business with his wife Catherine in 1998. With a specialisation in wine guiding and holding a FGASA level 2 Nature Guide certification, Wayne has honed his skills as a keen photographer. Currently, Wayne focuses on organising and leading privately guided safaris and tours in Southern Africa. When he’s not guiding others, he can be found capturing precious moments of his children on the beach or indulging his passion for fishing.
