Page 17 – Africa Geographic

Travel companies call for an end to activities that exploit lions

Leading ecotourism and safari companies, including Africa Geographic, came together during the Conservation Lab in Stellenbosch to call for an end to activities that exploit lions.

This comes after the recently released feature documentary Blood Lions, which has brought the horrors of predator breeding, canned hunting, and various other exploitative activities to the world’s attention. The film is a compelling call to action to have these practices stopped.

Star of Blood Lions Ian Michler says, “Conservation Lab was an incredible opportunity to network with the wider safari and conservation community. As a result of discussions leading up to and during the event, the vast majority of safari operators attending have agreed to support a statement condemning predator breeding, canned hunting and the range of exploitative activities, such as cub petting and ‘walking with lions’, associated with these industries. This statement greatly boosts the global campaign to end these activities. In addition, they are also showing their support for the legitimate predator conservation community and those operators offering responsible tourism activities.”

The undersigned African-based safari and eco-tourism operators support Blood Lions and its aims. Whilst predator breeding and canned hunting practices are currently confined to southern Africa, these operators stand together as a pan-African industry – joining their voices with the global call for having them stopped.

These companies strongly request that the respective authorities take note of the mounting global opposition to these practices and begin a process of shutting them down.

The established predator research and scientific community do not recognise any of the breeders or operating facilities as having conservation merit. In marketing themselves, breeding facilities confuse the conservation messages and priorities, specifically with lions, resulting in a misdirection of vital funding that negatively impacts wild lion populations.

There is sufficient evidence to show that their activities put additional pressure on wild lion populations: intensive breeders have illegally acquired new genetic stock from the wild, and the burgeoning lion bone trade poses a risk because of an illegal demand for bones from wild lions.

There is a deep concern about the welfare conditions of the animals kept in these facilities. Canned hunting is unethical and does not reduce the hunting pressure on wild lions.

Furthermore, the companies commit themselves to the following:

– To not book or otherwise support any breeder or operator contributing to the cycle of breeding, exploitation and senseless killing of predators. This includes all petting and ‘walking with lion’ facilities.

– To continue support and promotion of the formal conservation community in their endeavours to secure the survival of Africa’s predators in the wild. Without wild lions and the rest of the predator guild extant in functioning ecosystems, there will be no African tourism industry, a calamitous situation for many economies.

– To continue in endeavours towards wildlife conservation and economic development across Africa.

– To continue supporting an ethical and responsible interaction with Africa’s wilderness and wild animals.

– To continue promoting Africa as an authentic, wild and rewarding tourism destination.

We invite all operators to join us in committing to these pledges. To do so, please contact Blood Lions at info@bloodlions.org.

Africa’s Big Tuskers

Tuskers are elephants with tusks that reach the ground. According to Rowland Ward’s records, the heaviest tusk of an African elephant weighed an astonishing 226lb (102.5kg), the heaviest tusk of a woolly mammoth weighed 201lb (91.2kg) and the heaviest tusk of an Asiatic elephant weighed 161lb (73kg). However, it is essential to note that the longest tusks are not always the heaviest, as weight also depends on the circumference of the tusks.

Lengthwise, the longest African elephant tusk measured around 3.5m, the longest woolly mammoth tusk measured around 4m and the longest Asiatic elephant tusk measured around 3m.

Unfortunately, hunters very much prize the so-called “hundred pounders” – elephants whose tusks weigh at least 45kg each. As a combined result of trophy hunting, large scale exploitation of ivory for consumer goods in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, and devastating poaching, big tuskers have almost been wiped off the African continent. Once a common sight, roaming far and wide across East, Central and Southern Africa, now there are very few big tuskers left on the whole continent.

In the above cover photo, you can admire an iconic big tusker against a spectacular backdrop. Now around 47 years old, this fine bull is just about to exit his prime, which is a period generally between 40 and 50 years old when big tuskers reach their peak reproductive age, as well as the climax of their power. This age coincides with the most pronounced growth of their tusks, which means that a lot of bulls draw unwanted attention during these years.

These elephants are like no others. They have captured our imagination. Big tuskers have become incredibly special and, almost two years after the death of Satao at the hands of poachers, we hope that this gallery not only celebrates the existence of big tuskers but does justice to their majesty as the very last of their kind.

In November 2014, this elephant was treated from a wound that was probably caused by poachers, which further highlights how stringent measures need to be taken to protect these amazing animals. A combination of solutions, including constant surveillance, armed protection, relocation and artificial insemination programmes, is arguably the way forward. As Satao’s tragic death has proven, simple armed security is not enough, and big tuskers need armed guards to monitor them 24/7 – a similar protection to that which was enjoyed by an iconic bull called Ahmed in the Marsabit National Park in Kenya in the 1970s.

Contrary to what could easily be believed due to the number of good pictures taken with elephants out in the open, elephants – and in particular big tuskers – spend much more time in the bush than in grasslands. Big tuskers can be seen out in the open in the emerald season when the grass is tender, or in the dry season when they visit marshes and congregate at waterholes. Otherwise, they stay deep in the bush and are difficult to see.

The magnificent tusker in this picture is 44 years old and big – both in body size and tusk size. This particular picture was taken on a walking safari less than 20 metres away. We were following a group of bulls in the bush when the biggest of them suddenly came out of nowhere, raised his head and spread his huge ears, staring at us. He seemed as surprised as we were. We stopped, and he did not charge. He maintained this posture for a few seconds, then disappeared in the same way that he came.

This elephant is the oldest sister of another renowned big tusker, who is probably the most photographed big tusker in East Africa. Born in 1967, she grew up alongside two males – who are now also big tuskers – until the boys left the family when they were around 14 years old. The genes in that family are simply astounding!

This elephant became a matriarch of her herd in 2003, and at the beginning of 2012, she became the mother of a young calf, which can be seen suckling in this picture.

She is exceptional because she is one of less than ten female big tuskers that have been seen in Africa in recent years. While only male Asiatic elephants can grow very long tusks, male and female African elephants can grow such impressive ivory. However, the tusks of the males are generally much longer, thicker and several times heavier than those of the females, which rarely exceed 25kg each.

This legendary tusker from the African rainforest belongs to a smaller sub-species of the African elephant, which can only be found in the equatorial forest. His tusks display the typical forest elephant shape, growing almost straight downwards and parallel to each other. In this respect, they are similar to the tusks of a walrus. As seen in this photo, the gigantic tusks are helpful tools used together with the trunk for digging and extracting minerals in forest clearings.

However, such tusks are highly prized by poachers and trophy hunters, who have decimated forest elephant populations. In a recently published article, the author confirmed that we have lost 62% of forest elephants in the past decade alone. DNA analysis of recently confiscated tusks from Africa revealed that most of them originated from certain forested areas in Central Africa and bushy areas in southern Tanzania.

Like most of the big tuskers, this elephant has a peaceful character and normally avoids conflict. However, he knows how to assert himself when necessary. This was the case when this particular picture was taken, as he prevented other elephants from joining him at the waterhole, making an exception just for this smaller, weak elephant.

? © George Dian Balan

Some big tuskers are born with only one tusk, while others break their tusks while using them. The bull in this photo is still alive and well, and according to local researchers, he was probably not born with only one tusk, but instead broke one of his tusks at some point in time.

This particular picture was taken during a joint operation of the Kenyan Wildlife Service and the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust while seeking to dart and treat another bull possibly injured by poachers. While the other bulls ran into the bushes, this one remained until the end – giving the impression that he wanted to protect the others somehow and cover their retreat. He disappeared into the bushes, and the targeted bull was finally darted from a helicopter.

This splendid bull was photographed in Tanzania while grazing peacefully together with another bull as, due to the recent rains, the whole area was lush, and food was plentiful. Both elephants seemed very content and were rumbling gently alongside one another.

He is one of the very few bulls that may become a big tusker one day, and it is quite a miracle that he has survived the poaching fury thus far. Local guides do not know much about this particular individual – like most bulls that reach this age and tusk size, he is rarely spotted and lives an elusive life.

Photos of big tuskers are notoriously tricky to capture as they live secretive lives, and most of them have already passed away.

However, the team at The Askari Project was not to be deterred, and their attempt at this photo started in the darkness of early morning, shrouded in clouds and fog. As the light gradually won the fight with the last shadows of the dark, several elephant silhouettes emerged in the distance.

It took 90 minutes for the bulls to reach the safari vehicles patiently waiting for them. One of the bulls had incredible tusks, far greater in size than any of the other individuals in the group. He took people entirely by surprise when he chose to cross the road directly between the two safari vehicles, offering an unforgettable close encounter.

The Askari Project has been established to raise funding and support for elephant conservation and protect some of Africa’s last big tuskers.

They contribute to the funding of The Tsavo Trust.

Kenani, now deceased, is the big tusker who inspired The Tsavo Trust’s flagship Big Tusker Project and the organisation’s logo. As with most big tuskers, he was rarely seen in the open and spent most of the time deep in the dry bush.

It’s no secret that Tsavo National Park has the last notable population of big tuskers in the whole of Africa. To preserve this amazing gene pool, The Tsavo Trust has a special monitoring programme, conducting constant aerial and ground operations, which play a vital role in discouraging poachers and ensuring the timely treatment of any wounded animals. The Tsavo Trust collaborates with the Kenyan Wildlife Service to maximise the security of big tuskers, and it also works with other organisations, like the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, to provide any necessary medical treatment to animals. The Tsavo area is also famous for its small hirola population – the world’s rarest antelope- and for the formerly infamous man-eating lions.

Most elephants in Africa today have small tusks, rather than tusks that are similar in length and weight to the prehistoric woolly mammoths, due to a combined effect of large-scale commercial exploitation, trophy hunting and devastating poaching. The result is the opposite of Darwin’s theory of natural selection, as individuals with the best genes have been systematically exterminated.

The name ‘Babu’ comes from the Swahili word for grandfather, and this iconic bull was the pride of the Ngorongoro conservation area in Tanzania before he passed away. When he rested his head on his tusks, they were so big that he gave the impression that he was ploughing with them.

Although he had an average body size for a bull elephant, Babu was still an awe-inspiring sight thanks to his tusks, which were almost parallel and reminiscent of prehistoric species. Babu passed away from natural causes.

Up until around the age of 20, both male and female African elephants grow at a similar pace. While females then stop growing, males continue until around 40, which explains why great tusks are usually about 80cm taller and two times heavier than fully grown females. An average East African big tusker bull stands at about 3.2m in height at the shoulders and weighs around 6 tonnes. The biggest bull ever shot in Africa, which happened in Angola, was around 4 metres tall and weighed about 11 tonnes.

Duke was once the pride of Kruger National Park and was named after Thomas Duke, who was a ranger based in Lower Sabie at the beginning of the 20th century. Duke was arguably the most photographed big tusker in South Africa as, unlike most big tuskers, he was not shy, and he enjoyed human attention. He passed away from old age in October 2011 at around the age of 58.

South African big tuskers are known for generally having a slightly bigger body size than their East African counterparts, with many of them reaching a shoulder height of an estimated 3.4 metres and weighing around 7 tonnes. That said, the heaviest recorded tusks of any African elephant belonged to a bull that lived in the Kilimanjaro area of East Africa and was shot in 1898.

In elephant society, the role of the big tuskers and old bulls is crucial. For instance, it has been observed in certain wildlife sanctuaries in South Africa that young bulls who left their mothers and families at an early age – or who were raised as orphans by humans and then released back into the wild – can pose more of a threat to other wildlife. Such testosterone-filled bulls may even try to mate with rhinos, sometimes killing them in the process. However, this does not happen in areas where great tuskers and other old bulls still exist, as they will keep the younger bulls under control and educate them when necessary.

The iconic Satao was arguably the most handsome of the last big tuskers. His tusks displayed the characteristic shape of African elephants in that they grew laterally forward before turning towards each other. He lived in the Tsavo National Park (Tsavo East and Tsavo West), which meant he was arguably part of the best big tusker gene pool in the whole of Africa. As can be seen in this photo, big tuskers are often accompanied by several smaller bulls – called askaris – with which they form small bachelor herds.

People familiar with Satao reported that he seemed to intentionally hide his tusks behind bushes in a way that made them suspect he was aware that his huge tusks placed him in danger. Whatever the scientific reasons behind this behaviour, it is most certainly a characteristic that I have witnessed concerning several big tuskers.

After falling victim to poachers in May 2014 at the age of approximately 46, the shocking pictures of his carcass made him a symbol of the huge tragedies suffered by African wildlife. His death highlights the failures across the continent to protect these gentle giants, which is something that we need to face and urgently rectify.

Plan your Kenya safari to see tuskers find a ready-made safari, or ask us to build one just for you.

About the author

George Dian Balan is a wildlife photographer and conservationist who has travelled extensively worldwide searching for the last wilderness sanctuaries. He learned foreign languages in his childhood by reading hundreds of books about wildlife in English and French, years before the ‘boom’ in wildlife documentaries and the massive distribution of wildlife photography through social networks.
Dian is a self-taught photographer who seeks to do justice through his work to the fantastic beauty of wild creatures in their natural environments. His project – The Miracle of Wildlife – is about the miracle of the other wonderful creatures we share Earth with. It is about wildlife photography winning hearts and minds. It is about a gentle walk in the woods, a swim in the ocean, an intrepid expedition in the tropics or a sweaty hike to the top of a snow-covered mountain.
His work has been published by BBC Earth, Wild Planet Photo Magazine and Africa Geographic, among others, and he has also done well in various photography competitions. Dian is one of the few people worldwide who have photographed African and Asian big tuskers. He believes that elephants should be depicted in children’s books with “tusks-to-the-ground” and rhinos with “horns-to-the-sky”, exactly as they were in great numbers before and as very few of them still are.

ALSO READ Time with super tuskers

Lesotho’s only endemic freshwater fish under threat

Something stirs in the depths, and for a moment, a shard of light illuminates the unmistakable scarlet rays of a pectoral fin. A nervous Maloti minnow emerges from the shelter of his watery lair – a flash of vibrance in an otherwise muted world. A plume of grey cloud seeps out from the peaks above, casting a shadow across the water, and almost as suddenly as the fish appeared, it is gone.

This is one of the last Maloti minnows still living in the Senqunyane River that snakes its way through the dramatic Lesotho Highlands. Unlikely to ever find a mate, and even if it could, the chances of its young surviving would be slim to none. A population doomed and a species teetering dangerously on the edge of extinction.

Things weren’t always this way in the Senqunyane. This mighty river pulsed with indigenous fish life not so long ago, and Lesotho’s iconic Maloti minnows swam these waters in their thousands. Groups of adults boldly patrolled submerged boulders for a tasty morsel of aquatic invertebrates. Swarms of young fish buzzed in quiet backwaters fringing deep pools, destined to live long and one day spawn themselves.

“What a whopper!” was the exclamation as three men marvelled at the beauty of a Maloti minnow held up in a plastic bag in the popular 1980s Mazda commercial! It was unthinkable that a species in clear view of the public eye and so widespread just a few decades ago could now be facing serious risk of extinction in the wild, but this is a story all too familiar in a world where we are ‘developing’ our land (and river) scapes faster than we can take stock of the environmental consequences.

The Maloti minnow (Pseudobarbus quathlambae)– Lesotho’s only endemic freshwater fish – is a member of a group of small but charismatic species collectively called the ‘redfin minnows’. These fish are notoriously threatened by habitat loss and species invasions throughout their ranges in South Africa, and a recent study published in the international scientific journal Aquatic Conservation: Marine and Freshwater Ecosystems reveals that Lesotho’s Maloti minnow may, in fact, be the worst off of the lot.

The species comprises two separate lineages that are genetically very different: a ‘Mohale’ lineage found in the rivers flowing into Mohale Dam and an ‘Eastern’ lineage that includes populations in river catchments east of Mohale. The large genetic difference between the two lineages results from a long period of geographic isolation. According to freshwater fish expert Professor Paul Skelton from the South African Institute for Aquatic Biodiversity (SAIAB), this means they should be conserved separately.

Furthermore, the Mohale lineage occupied three-quarters of the total habitat occupied by all Maloti minnows before the construction of the Mohale Dam and was thus identified as being of critical importance for the continued survival of the species. For aeons, the Maloti minnow was the only fish species inhabiting the upper Jorodane, Bokong and Senqunyane Rivers (which now flow into Mohale Dam) and is consequently poorly adapted and highly susceptible to predation by larger species of fish. Although present downstream, larger species like yellowfish and trout have historically been prevented from moving into these rivers and coming into contact with the minnows by the spectacular 20-metre-high Semongkoaneng waterfall.

However, following the filling of the Mohale Dam in 2003 (the second of four major dams planned for the Lesotho Highlands Water Project, with Katse Dam being the first), an underground tunnel linking it to the neighbouring Katse Dam was opened. Aquatic biologists immediately saw the potential for larger species like yellowfish and trout present in Katse Dam to travel through the tunnel to Mohale Dam and spread up into the influent rivers with potentially disastrous consequences for the Maloti minnows.

They sounded the alarm and lobbied for measures to be put in place to prevent this scenario from unfolding. Unfortunately, their advice was not heeded, and now, nearly a decade and a half later, the inevitable has happened – smallmouth yellowfish (Labeobarbus aeneus), a larger, more aggressive species, has moved through the tunnel, spread up into the Jorodane, Bokong and Senqunyane Rivers and all but displaced the naïve and fragile Maloti minnows from these former strongholds. Orange River mudfish (Labeo capensis), another large cyprinid, have also recently shown up in the dam, and who knows how long it will be before trout (rainbow trout – Oncorhynchus mykiss, and brown trout – Salmo trutta, both present in Katse Dam) do the same!

Large-scale developments like the Lesotho Highlands Water Project are vital for providing clean water to thirsty developing nations like South Africa and Lesotho, but at what cost? How many more unique species need to be lost before we start prioritising their well-being in our plans to develop our last wild places? Indeed, a world without its unique creatures is like a ring devoid of its sparkling diamonds. In the case of the Maloti minnow, this ecological disaster could easily have been prevented with a simple engineering modification to the Katse-Mohale water transfer tunnel. We now have an opportunity to learn from our mistakes and avoid similar oversights in the construction of Pompihali and Tsoelike Dams (stages three and four in the project) and, indeed, the development of our planet’s ecosystems in general.

Elephant poaching – intelligent law enforcement helps

The scale of the elephant poaching problem is immense. Written by: Wayne Lotter

Editorial note: Wayne Lotter was assassinated on 16 August 2017 in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, by poaching syndicate members.

The global elephant poaching crisis is now well documented, with an estimated 30,000 to 35,000 African elephants being illegally killed annually for their ivory. Tanzania has lost by far the most, with its elephant population declining by about 66,000 in six years until November 2014 (Tanzania Wildlife Research Institute, 2015). The national population was estimated at 109,000 in 2009 and was down to 43,000 by the end of 2014. This equates to one elephant being killed every 45 minutes in Tanzania alone.

In a presentation to the Parliamentary Committee on Land, Natural Resources and Environment on 23rd April 2013, the Tanzania Elephant Protection Society (TEPS) Task Team cautioned that: “At this rate, the last of our national elephant herd could be shot out in seven years’ time.”

Shortly before that, at the Elephant Stakeholders Meeting held in Dar es Salaam on 28-29 January 2013 it was reported that ivory is big business for major criminal syndicates that are also involved in trafficking drugs and violent crime. At the same meeting, it was reported that the courts were ineffective in deterring elephant poaching. TEPS (2013) reported, “Very few captured poachers or traders have been convicted. Many are granted bail and return to poaching or trading. Sentencing is weak, and fines are very low, usually less than the price of one tusk. There is, therefore, little deterrence against these criminal activities.”

There have been various responses to address the problem of elephant poaching:

– Some major donor-funded projects were started;

– Conservation NGOs have grown and started projects in protected areas to improve monitoring and better equip and train rangers;

– Stakeholder forums were established, and numerous workshops were held;

– There have been awareness campaigns locally and abroad;

– International aid agencies and NGOs have hired consultants, and overnight expertise has grown. One consultant wrote a strategic plan for Tanzania with an asking budget of US$52 million.

Unfortunately, conventional approaches have had very limited success in most instances. Notably, some of the most spectacular collapses of wildlife populations due to poaching have been in protected areas with the biggest donor-funded projects. In Tanzania, as at the last national elephant population estimate in November 2014, the 43,000 at that time had dropped from an estimated 69,000 in just two years. Therefore, the situation worsened after getting more support and international attention. Clearly, conventional approaches and aid funding alone have not effectively addressed problems timeously. This begs the questions: Why the failure? What is needed?

The answers lie within the strategy employed to address the problem in source countries.

People say it is an ivory war, yet the strategy to address it in most countries is typically only defensive.

War is fought and won through a combination of defence and attack that is carefully planned and based on accurate information. It involves various armed force corps’ and specialist units operating together in an integrated campaign. Victory is seldom, if ever, won on home soil and through defensive corps’ and units only.

PAMS Foundation believes that the solution for saving wildlife is to implement a complete programme that targets all levels of the opposing forces, with each component implemented by specific groups with the appropriate expertise and mandate. In practice, this translates to a campaign run by three main entities.

At the protected area level, where the poaching is taking place, it is the honourable task of the rangers and their conservation support staff to form the last line of defence. Through patrolling, aerial support and related activities, these brave men and women represent what is equivalent to the Home Guard in a war context. This is where the last stand is made to prevent the loss of wildlife.

Contrary to popular notions, if we can win this war, the frontline in the wildlife protection context needs to be not in the bush where the foot soldiers (rangers) are engaged. It rather needs to be taken to where the senior officers and generals of the adversary are located. That is primarily in the major towns and cities. This is done through intelligence-led operations targeting buyers and high-level traders in urban areas, followed by thorough and professional case preparation and prosecution. Rangers are not suited to do this task, but it should rather be up to other strike forces and specialist units in law enforcement, including the police, prosecutors, intelligence and security officers, who are specifically mandated, trained and equipped to do so.

Finally, to have an effective defence and attack, proper intelligence is needed. Much of the raw information and support for this comes through achieving community support. The best way to obtain this is through community-based projects in areas neighbouring protected areas, which, for example, assist farmers and pastoralists with human-wildlife conflict mitigation, provide applicable education and create or assist with income-generating activities at a local level. This task is often best fulfilled by conservation agencies and NGOs but is far more effective when those implementing the projects are well-trained and properly aware of the role they play.

PAMS Foundations’ strategy is thus built on the premise that a well-informed and fully integrated multi-agency approach is the only sensible way to wage a war and expect to be able to win it.

The tide can definitely be turned, and it is, in fact, already turning!

Since November 2014, coinciding with when an aerial survey was conducted that estimated Tanzania’s elephant population to be at an all-time low of 43,000, this integrated strategy was upscaled to a national level thanks to a far-sighted donor recognising its potential after proving itself at a pilot project level.

After just 12 months, the Ruaha-Rungwa ecosystem registered no further declines after a drop of well over 5,000 elephants was recorded the year before. Notably, there were no other significant differences in protection measures applied during that time, and unprecedented results were achieved in terms of dismantling syndicates through the multi-agency intelligence-led operations implemented in that ecosystem since that time.

The results of future government elephant population censuses will do more to verify it officially, but from the work we supported across the country, the PAMS Foundation believes that the decline nationally was reduced by two-thirds or more in 2015, compared with the annual average of the preceding six years. There is no way that it was anywhere close to the previous levels experienced.

In terms of what was done to achieve the major reduction in elephant poaching, as the NGO that has supported far more anti-poaching and anti-trafficking operations and prosecutions than any other across Tanzania in recent years, PAMS Foundation suggests that the following results achieved speak for themselves. To single out results produced by the multi agency National & Transnational Serious Crimes Investigation Unit (NTSCIU) alone, one can see some internationally unparalleled achievements:

· 1,044 poachers and illegal ivory traders arrested (more than 200 of these arrests were in Dar es Salaam and other cities)

· Over 346 firearms and 40 vehicles, which were used in transporting ivory, seized

· The 3 biggest ever illegal ivory traders were arrested during 2015

The ivory queen in court — Yang Feng Glan, the notorious Chinese ‘Queen of Ivory’ was arrested in October 2015 ©NTSCIU

· Prosecution of 288 suspects thus far (91.5% conviction rate compared with those acquitted, released or escaped)

· 45 prison sentences of 16 years and longer (up to 40 years)

Note: the above was achieved with a project budget of less than US$3 million to date.

There is still a long way to go before the ivory war is finally won in Tanzania. However, under Tanzania’s current president and the leadership of the Ministry of Natural Resources and Tourism, as well as the Ministry of Home Affairs and others, it seems likely that the groundbreaking complementary programmes in place to combat elephant poaching should continue to be an exceptionally good example of what can be achieved when an intelligent anti-poaching strategy is implemented.

STROOP – your chance to make a difference for rhinos

Not many people would sell their homes and move back in with their parents to self-finance a wildlife documentary while refusing funding offers from people who want the message to be watered down and made more palatable for certain interest groups. This is the story of STROOP: Journey into the Rhino Horn War

This is precisely what Bonné de Bod and Susan Scott have done, and STROOP: Journey into the Rhino Horn War – now in edit, with the final release due later this year – promises to be a rollercoaster ride for viewers. It will include footage from the killing fields of Kruger National Park, where they were given privileged access to sensitive scenes, to the courtrooms in bush frontier towns and dingy backrooms of Vietnamese wildlife traffickers, where the intrepid pair endured life-threatening encounters with some of this planet’s most evil individuals. Imagine walking into a room full of suspicious thugs and convincing them you are a film star looking for ivory and rhino horn jewellery – with a hidden camera strapped to your chest!

Along the way, Bonné and Susan also met many passionate people who are making a real difference on the coalface and a dignified lady with cancer who views rhino horn as her salvation. All this and more packed into what will no doubt be a watershed documentary for awareness about the rhino situation.

Bonné de Bod interviews a Traditional Chinese Medicine doctor in Vietnam ©Susan Scott

A Vietnamese cancer patient grounds rhino horn into powder ©Susan Scott

‘STROOP’ is Afrikaans for ‘poach’ or ‘strip bare’; this video has Afrikaans audio with English subtitles. They also plan to have multiple language subtitles, including Chinese, Vietnamese, Zulu and Shangaan.

My one-hour meeting with these two brave filmmakers turned into four as they enthralled me with their stories and footage and infused me with their focused passion. I left humbled and overflowing with a sense of hope, of respect. And I wanted to get involved, to help them achieve their mission of educating the world about the true rhino story, free from any commercial influence.

bonne-de-bod-rhinos — Private rhino owner Yana Mockford with Bonné de Bod during feeding time for her rhinos on her farm ©Susan Scott

And so I paid $25 on their crowd-sourcing web page to receive a digital download of STROOP: Journey into the Rhino Horn War when it comes out – which I am so looking forward to – and I promised myself to convince you somehow to do the same. Yes, you.

By paying for a digital download of STROOP: Journey into the Rhino Horn War, or donating a lesser amount, you help ensure that it is completed without editorial censorship by traditional broadcasters. Make no mistake, this will be a controversial documentary, and some interest groups may feel aggrieved when the truth is laid bare.

PLEASE HELP Bonné and Susan to complete this incredible journey.

Visit the STROOP: Journey into the Rhino Horn War website to read more, view a few video clips (not the juicy stuff) and pay for your digital download.

Chapman’s Baobab has fallen down

Not long ago we heard the shocking news that Chapman’s Baobab – one of the greatest trees on Earth – split down its middle and crashed to the earth. Having visited this beautiful tree numerous times, it was very sad news. Written and photographs by Devon Jenkin

To have been in the presence of such an ancient tree and spend time in her presence was always a humbling and spiritually reflective time for me. Its sheer size, majestic presence and history earned her, in my eyes anyway, the title – Queen of the Kalahari.

Chapman’s Baobab, located at Ntwetwe Pan in the greater Makgadikgadi Pans area in central Botswana, was named after early explorer and pioneer James Chapman, who travelled through the area with Thomas Baines in 1861. Courtney Selous, Robert Moffat and David Livingstone were some of the other famous names we know that passed the tree. The baobab fulfilled several functions for these early explorers, mainly because it was used as a beacon when crossing the unforgiving salt pans. Explorers would leave their camp on the other side the evening before to avoid the merciless sun and travel through the night. Then, appearing as a tiny black dot on the horizon at dawn, it would lead the explorers across the narrowest section of the salt pans.

Once at the tree, its immensity provided shade and refuge from the heat. There was a cavity in one of the trunks that is said to have served as Africa’s first post office – explorers going north would leave their letters for loved ones and expedition funders in the hole in the hope that those returning south would take the mail with them and post it if and when they got home.

It’s difficult to age baobabs, but Chapman’s Baobab is said to be around 5,000 years old, which is difficult to comprehend. However, it lets you ponder upon what it has seen in its lifetime – nomadic people, great herds of wild animals, storms, floods, droughts and everything else that could happen in such an immense time span.

On one of his expeditions, Livingstone recorded its circumference as 85 feet (25.9m).

The reason for her falling is still being investigated. However, high temperatures and late rains are considered contributing factors.

ALSO READ: 9 Fascinating baobab tree facts

Find out about your next Botswana safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

A photographic journey through traditional Egypt

My name is Yasser Alaa Mobarak. I’m a 22-year-old amateur photographer based in Alexandria, Egypt. Photography, for me, is an artistic journey which I started when I was 18 years old. I have travelled to many cities across Egypt, exploring the diverse cultures that call this country home.

Although many people in Egypt have adopted a modern way of living, I try to focus on the traditional side of Egyptian life, as this is where I feel the most authenticity and uniqueness exists.

I have produced many images from Alexandria to Aswan, Luxor and the Siwa Oasis on my photographic journey. And I would like to share a few of my favourite photographs with you.

Let’s start with some portraits of Egyptian people…

A Nubian man in a Nubian village of Aswan in Egypt — A Nubian man in the Nubian village of Aswan

Tailor working in his shop in El-Souk region in Luxor in Egypt — Tailor working in his shop in the El-Souk region of Luxor

Seller in his book store in El-Nabi Danial street in Alexandria in Egypt — Seller in his book store in El-Nabi Danial street in Alexandria

A young boy in Kom El-Dikka region in Alexandria in Egypt — A young boy in Kom El-Dikka region in Alexandria

Young girl in Kom El-Dikka region in Alexandria in Egypt — Young girl in Kom El-Dikka region in Alexandria

Here is an abstract series that showcases the traditional and simple houses of the El-Max region in Alexandria

Finally, here are some images that I took in Siwa Oasis in Egypt.

A shop for renting bicycles in the old town of Shali in Siwa Oasis in Egypt — A shop for renting bicycles

See more of my work on my Instagram and Flickr pages.

Meet the orphaned elephants at the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust

I’ve heard Daphne Sheldrick, the world’s expert on raising orphaned baby elephants, say on many occasions that “elephants are like us… but better.”

Growing up I only knew elephants from reading Babar the Elephant books and going to zoos. Later, I would see my first wild elephants in Africa. But it was while visiting the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust on the edge of Nairobi National Park in Kenya, my love affair with the world’s largest land mammal really began.

I am back at the Sheldrick Centre for my fifth or sixth visit today. I can’t get enough of the place and make a point of visiting whenever I pass through Nairobi.

I’m waiting among a crowd of people, including about 100 local schoolchildren who have never before seen an elephant. We are gathered around a roped-off mud hole.

david-sheldrick-orphaned-elephant-centre

Out of the woods walk local men dressed in blue-green coveralls, followed by a line of elephants the colour of the red earth we are standing on. Some of the animals run kicking a ball, some lag behind, and others play with the tail of the elephant in front of them.

Their excitement is palpable, their energy contagious and adorable. The young ellies have come to play, wallow in the mud, and take their mid-morning feeding of the milk solution Daphne Sheldrick perfected over years of trial and error.

If the Sheldrick Centre had volunteer positions, I would sign up immediately. I envy the keepers who hand-feed the elephants from gallon-sized “baby” bottles and sleep in the stalls with the baby elephants who need almost constant contact until age three.

I listen to the keepers tell each baby elephant’s story of the tragedy that brought them here to the orphanage. This one fell down a well and was dehydrated when rescued. That one over there watched its whole family being poached and was found vigilantly standing beside her dead mother’s body. This little one is still so fragile she wears a blanket to keep her warm even though it’s 80ºF today.

Each story is as heartbreaking as the next.

But there is a happy ending for most of the 200 elephants that have been brought here over the years. Daphne says, “There is a saying: If you love an animal, set it free, and if it loves you, it will come back to you to thank you from time to time.” She says she has found that to be very true.

After five years at the orphanage (or when they are deemed ready), the young elephants are transferred to holding areas in Tsavo National Park, where they will eventually walk back to the freedom that is their right as a wild elephant. On many occasions, the “re-wilded” elephants will return to this place of transition to say ‘Hi’ to a keeper or ask for help when they have a festering wound, for instance. They never forget the caregivers who saved their lives. And I will never forget my close encounters with these orphaned elephants. They have changed my life.

Find out about Kenya as your next holiday destination – for a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

White baboon stands out from the crowd in Arusha NP

It’s not unusual to see large groups of baboons in Tanzania’s parks, but seeing a white baboon is a rare treat! An albino baboon has been spotted in Arusha National Park in Tanzania. This ‘mythical’ creature has been seen drinking near the Momela Lakes and is delighting all the lucky visitors who glimpse him.

Albino baboons are not generally a common sight in the wild as they struggle to survive in an environment that favours blending in. Starkly contrasting the browns and greens of the bush, they are easily visible to roaming predators, making them an easy target.

albino-baboon-sticks-out-in-the-bush — ©Beth Kirsch

When they are young, most parents will reject their albino babies, or the group may choose to exclude the unfamiliar members altogether. This leaves them fending for themselves and severely limits their chances of survival.

albino-baboon-in-its-pack — ©Beth Kirsch

Luckily for safari-goers, this young white baboon has survived against the odds and appears to be thriving. Arusha National Park is much smaller than many other parks, making it the ideal place to spot rare creatures that would otherwise be very difficult to discover.

Read more about white and black animal morphs: The Black & White of African Wildlife Explained.

Rhino poaching – Buy No Rhino

In April 2015, we embarked on a great adventure. We travelled through eight Asian countries – from Hong Kong to Singapore – on our mountain bicycles – loaded to the brim with front and back panniers carrying all of our essential survival equipment. Our aim was to raise awareness about the rhino poaching crisis in Africa and call for a greater focus on demand reduction as a conservation strategy.

We chose to travel to Southeast Asia because African rhinos are being slaughtered to cater to the high demand for rhino horn in these countries. Thailand and Laos are often named as transit countries that facilitate the smuggling. At the same time, Vietnam and China have been notably identified as the biggest drivers of poaching, with some sources claiming that Vietnam is responsible for up to 80% of rhino horn consumption. The country’s rapid economic development in the last decade has been cited as one of the main reasons why the demand for wildlife products such as bear bile, shark fins, tiger bones, pangolin scales and, of course, rhino horn is higher than ever.

laos-landscape-buy-no-rhino — The two sisters cycle through the landscapes of Laos ©Buy No Rhino

clearwater-bay-school-buy-no-rhino — Children cheer for rhinos at Clearwater Bay School in Hong Kong ©Buy No Rhino

Our vision was to inspire people living across Southeast Asia to realise that they have the power to change their surroundings, but our main focus was Vietnam. We believe that educating youth is key to curbing the demand for rhino horn in Asian countries, so we visited as many schools as possible on our journey – starting the day after our arrival in Hong Kong.

In each school, we gave educational talks about the rhino and implemented the Rhino Art Project, which aims to increase conservation awareness and cultivate the next generation of wildlife ambassadors by inviting young people to express themselves through art. The final objective of this project is to gather the most significant number of ‘Children’s Art Voices’ in support of rhino protection and use them as a worldwide call to action against rhino poaching. And we couldn’t believe how enthusiastic kids were about saving this species! Throughout our eight-month tour, we also spent a considerable amount of time talking at universities and English clubs across the region and collecting signatures for the World Youth Wildlife Declaration, which also allowed adults to voice their opinions and support.

Supply and demand

You might be surprised to hear that rhino horn is not traditionally used as an aphrodisiac. Tom Milliken, a rhino expert from TRAFFIC, clarifies that “the surge in rhino horn demand from Vietnam has nothing to do with meeting traditional medicine needs. It’s rather to supply a recreational drug to partygoers or to con dying cancer patients out of their cash for a miracle rhino horn cure that will never happen.”

A few years ago, a powerful Vietnamese general claimed that he was cured of cancer by regularly drinking ground rhino horn. Since then, this myth has spread, and the non-traditional use of rhino horn as a magical cancer cure has exploded – which stimulates rhino poaching.

Recently, the utilisation of rhino horn has further diversified in Vietnam. It is increasingly regarded amongst the affluent elite as a status symbol. It can be a special gift or a bribe in the business world. It is also believed that rhino horn works as a body detoxifier following excessive consumption of alcohol or rich food. This conviction makes rhino horn very popular as a party drug or hangover cure, even among the younger generation.

buy-no-rhino-bicycle — At the start of their cycle tour on the beach in Hong Kong ©Buy No Rhino

dehorned-rhino-bull-private-game-reserve — A dehorned rhino bull on a private game reserve in South Africa ©Buy No Rhino

rhino-horn-bracelet-how-to-check-if-real-buy-no-rhino — To check if something is made from rhino horn, you can supposedly shine a light through the piece, and it will show the grain or texture of the horn. Whereas light will not shine well through buffalo horn ©Buy No Rhino

The users truly trust in the alleged medicinal powers of the horn

Talking to many people of different ages and backgrounds, we were surprised by how deeply these superstitious beliefs are ingrained. The users truly trust in the alleged, but never proven, medicinal powers of the horn. Many people told us about the use of rhino horn in their own families or had seen rhino horn being exhibited in homes. The younger generation might not always believe in the healing effects of rhino horn. If someone in their family were to fall ill, many would feel obliged to explore any possible remedy, including buying expensive and illegal wildlife products. We even heard stories about rhino horn ‘touts’ deliberately targeting terminally ill patients and their families.

It goes without saying that this illicit trade is a very profitable one! The black market is controlled by criminal syndicates, which often involve the same gangs that are guilty of human trafficking and other illegal wildlife trade – including products such as abalone, ivory and tiger bones. Sadly, “the only people benefitting from the current rhino poaching crisis are those running the criminal networks, who are making huge profits with little fear of prosecution in Asian markets,” said Milliken.

sharks-fin-buy-no-rhino — Ness is unimpressed by shark fins being sold at about ZAR1,500 per 500g in a local store in Macau, China ©Buy No Rhino

open-sale-of-ivory — The open sale of ivory in shop windows ©Buy No Rhino

The search for a rhino poaching solution

Many different solutions are being discussed to increase the security of rhinos left in South Africa – from dehorning the animals, dying the horn pink, or even poisoning the horn so that it will affect the end-user.

Recently, discussions have erupted about the planned sale of artificially manufactured rhino horn. Conservationists in Vietnam are convinced that this will expand the market and may even enforce the belief that rhino horn is an effective medicine. They fear that it would also complicate law enforcement and lead to more rhino killings.

New technologies such as drones, satellite imagery, GPS tracking and apps are being tested to combat wildlife crime, and a great deal is already being done in South Africa to stop those criminals and cut down on rhino poaching and horn smuggling. But protecting this iconic species is only part of the solution. We believe that the only viable and long-term solution is to stop the demand for horn. You only have to look back throughout history to see that demand reduction has repeatedly been successful.

In the past, there have been ever-shifting peaks in rhino horn consumption in various countries. At different times in the last century, Japan, South Korea and Taiwan were major rhino horn consumers, and the markets in these countries were also often correlated with strong economic growth. When the Taiwanese market was at its height, Zimbabwe lost most of its rhinos. However, thanks to a strong political will, international pressure and a focus on education, each country was able to curb the demand for rhino horn, and today, these countries no longer pose a threat to rhinos. We believe that this can be done again today.

And it has to be done before it is too late!

bicylce-street-art-penang-buy-no-rhino — Fitting street art in Penang, Malaysia ©Buy No Rhino

cycling-thailand-buy-no-rhino — Cycling through the streets of Thailand ©Buy No Rhino

Legalising the rhino horn trade

The heated debate about legalising the rhino horn trade often flares up in South Africa. Private rhino breeders John Hume and Johan Kruger even launched successful legal action to lift the domestic ban of rhino horn and received a lot of media attention in doing so.

This is a very controversial and complex topic, and we asked many Vietnamese for their opinion. The general reaction was one that showed a complete lack of understanding. How could a country fight for the survival of the rhino and at the same time want to legalise the trade of horn?!

Meanwhile, Asian governments are apparently leaning back and waiting for the final outcome of this discussion instead of concentrating on cracking down on smuggling and the illegal sale of rhino horn. The fact that there is a debate is already sending a dangerous signal to Asian countries.

The idealist in me says that a unified voice combined with an investment in education will lead to demand reduction, which would be a more effective measure in the long run.

cycling-asia-cows-buy-no-rhino — Cows join them on their journey ©Buy No Rhino

cute-laotian-children-buy-no-rhino — Smiling Laotian children – the hope for the future ©Buy No Rhino

west-lake-hanoi-buy-no-rhino — Reaching West Lake in Hanoi, Vietnam ©Buy No Rhino

A glimmer of hope

In Vietnam, we were happy to have numerous positive and encouraging experiences. Many young Vietnamese adults already have a different mindset to that of the older generation. Nature conservation and animal rights are still relatively new concepts, but they are growing. Environmental NGOs and nature clubs at universities are being founded, and the first tentative steps in the right direction are being taken. A paradigm shift looks to be possible, after all.

At one of our school talks, a sixteen-year-old told us an especially uplifting story. Her dad, a wealthy businessman, received a piece of rhino horn as a gift. When the girl heard this, she told her father that it was a disgrace for the family to accept this offering. At school, she had learned about the ivory and rhino horn trade and the dreadful poaching of elephants and rhinos. As a result, her dad returned the rhino horn, proving the power that children and young adults have to change the world.

kids-often-drew-rhinos-with-tears-buy-no-rhino — The sisters found that children often drew rhinos with tears ©Buy No Rhino

African safari — The innocence of youth ©Buy No Rhino

We also realised how crucial personal exchange is. For us, it was an eye-opener to experience the Vietnamese culture and learn about their traditions. On the other hand, the Vietnamese were impressed by these two crazy young ladies who were willing to give their time (and money!) for a good cause. The Vietnamese who have had the chance to travel to South Africa and experience the beauty of the African bush, often return as changed people and act as rhino ambassadors in their country.

In Ho Chi Minh City, we had the honour of meeting the famous pop singer Le Hong Nhung. This delicate, beautiful woman is very passionate about protecting the rhino. Her solution is to appeal to the Vietnamese national pride, as she believes that Vietnam would not want to be known as the country responsible for the rhino’s extinction. This was definitely the best solution that we heard while we were over there – address the message in a way that will have the most significant impact on the local people by appealing to their pride.

The war against rhino poaching will be won in Asia, not in Africa

There is no quick way to stop the current rhino crisis. The problem has to be tackled on different levels, including effective conservation, international collaboration, the strengthening of law enforcement on a global scale, and a fast crack-down on criminal syndicates. But in the end, the rhino has only one chance of survival – demand reduction. As the slogan of the well-known organisation, WildAid states: “When the buying stops, the killing can too.”
We firmly believe that creating awareness and educating the Asian public is the most crucial step towards saving the rhino. The war against rhino poaching will be won in Asia, not in Africa.

first-art-work-hong-kong-buy-no-rhino — A young girl in Hong Kong proudly displays her first piece of artwork for the rhinos! ©Buy No Rhino

What can you do about rhino poaching?

Do you feel helpless, overwhelmed and saddened by the immense tragedy of the poaching situation? So did we. But that doesn’t mean that you can’t take an active approach.

First of all, inform yourself about the situation. Start by researching the facts, then become a rhino ambassador and talk to friends and family, creating awareness and spreading the seed of education. Use social media to share information and think of creative ways to tackle the issue. For example, one Australian businesswoman with no background in conservation launched a series of anti-rhino horn advertisements aimed at Vietnam’s wealthy elite.

So what could you do? Here are some ideas to start you off.

– Organise a fundraising event
– ‘Adopt’ or sponsor a baby rhino at a rhino orphanage
– Write an article for an international online news platform
– Blog some interesting facts
– Volunteer for a trusted organisation
Each action counts, and each action will have an effect.

Did you know?

Rhinos used to roam the forests of South-East Asia. Asia is home to three rhino species – the Javan, the Sumatran (both Critically Endangered species) and the Indian rhino. Vietnam lost its last Javan rhino in 2010 when it got shot in Cat Tien National Park and had its horn removed.

Rhinos have very poor eyesight. However, they have an excellent sense of smell and hearing.

Rhino females are very nurturing, protective mothers who take great care of their babies. They are pregnant for about 18 months, after which only one calf is born. The calf then stays with its mother for about two to three years.

The white rhino is the second-largest animal after the elephant. It can weigh over 3,500kg.

Rhinos are fast on their feet. Black rhinos have been recorded to reach speeds of 55 km/h. The white rhino is somewhat slower at 40km/h.

Both the black and white rhino are actually grey. Apparently, early English settlers mistranslated the Afrikaans word ‘wyd’, which means ‘wide’, as ‘white’. The white rhino has a wide, flat, square lip for grazing from the ground, whereas the black rhino is a browser and picks at bushes and trees with its hooked lips.

Read about African rhinos here

BNR FB Banner — The Buy No Rhino banner ©Buy No Rhino

About the author

Vicky and Ness Wiesenmaier are sisters born in Cape Town, South Africa. They both love the bushveld and were struck by the severity of the rhino poaching situation while on a three-week holiday in Kenya back in 2012. Two years later, they decided to embark on a cycling adventure of epic proportions in April 2015 to create awareness about the rhino poaching issues in Africa. Their aim was to sow a seed of change in key consumer markets in Southeast Asia, even if they could not change a whole culture.

Vicky is a financial controller based in Germany, and Ness works as a fashion buyer in Cape Town. They conceived the idea for their trip and made relevant plans over many Skype conversations, and their call for change has been heard far and wide over the past year.

Enchanting Ethiopia

Our trip to Ethiopia was very spur of the moment. Three days after deciding to go, we found ourselves trekking in the Simien Mountains in the north of the country, one of the most stunning places I have ever hiked. To many people, Ethiopia may be synonymous with civil war, coups, drought and famine, but Ethiopia is becoming a country to which more and more people are starting to venture. It is a beautiful, dynamic and fascinating place, and the people we met on our trip were some of the friendliest, most welcoming and professional I have come across in my African travels.

We had decided to combine a five-day, approximately 60km trek with a few days spent checking out some of the country’s incredible cultural sites. Our Simien hike would conclude with a climb up Bwahit – Ethiopia’s second-highest mountain. At an altitude of 4,437 metres, Bwahit was a five-hour hike and a one-kilometre vertical ascent above our final campsite, taking us up into the clouds and giving us a stunning view of where we had hiked the previous days.

Once we left the mountains, we planned to head off to see some of the oldest and most incredible historical sites on the African continent.

Ethiopia — The spectacular Simien Mountains ©Limalimo Lodge

In the Earth’s long history of dramatic geographical changes, the most recent volcanic upheavals occurred in this part of Africa. Torrential rains in the region created gushing rivers and waterfalls, eroding much of the newly formed volcanic mountain massifs, leaving behind a broad plateau split by thousands of metres deep gorges. As far as the horizon in every direction are steep mountains and deep valleys carved from the hardened basalt – a seemingly timeless landscape. Listed as a World Heritage Site, the Simien Mountains are breathtaking.

Late, unexpected rain had come to the Simiens, just in time for our visit. The dry season runs from October to April, and October and November are usually the best times to visit, so we had come in mid-November. We had perfect morning weather, lasting long enough to get six or seven hours of trekking done. But just as we approached the camp, or not long after arriving, the weather would close in, and light rain would start falling. The rain usually lasted most of the night, making getting out of a sleeping bag, battling with stubborn tent zips and going out to ‘commune with nature’ a bit of a chore. We were generally in bed by 8pm, so the morning was far away and presented a challenge for bladders.

Amazing scenery aside, the Simien Mountains are home to several animals endemic to Ethiopia, such as the gelada monkey, the critically endangered walia ibex – with an estimated entire population of approximately 500, and the Ethiopian wolf – the rarest and most endangered canid in the world, with less than 500 left in the wild. Geladas are amazing and intelligent ‘old world’ monkeys; the males have vampire-like canines, which they bare frequently, and golden manes that wouldn’t look out of place in a shampoo commercial! According to fossil records, they were once found all over Africa and into the Mediterranean and Asia, but they are now only found in the mountains of Ethiopia.

Thanks to their falsetto cries, explosive barks and soft grunts, they have one of the most varied repertoires of all primates. Grazing primarily on grass, these noisy herds are easy to follow, except at night when they disappear over the edge of the steep cliffs to sleep on tiny ledges out of the way of leopards and other predators. We could happily have spent hours watching them. We saw the ibex and heard the wolf (though sadly never saw it) and, given the heights we climbed, we had the rare vantage point of looking down on a variety of kites, eagles and vultures, including the lammergeyer, known as the ‘bone breaker’ for its habit of dropping animal bones from great heights to smash them open and reach the marrow inside.

A remnant of the more unsettled times in Ethiopia’s past is the prevalence of weapons. 80-90% of households own a gun, and the bulk of the adult male population has either served as soldiers or are still members of various militia groups, which are a bit like reserve soldiers. Hiring a local ‘militiaman’ to accompany you as a scout when trekking in the Simien Mountains is compulsory. These militiamen are approved by the national parks authority to work as scouts and to accompany you throughout the park, ostensibly to keep you and your possessions safe, though at no point did we feel threatened or that the gun was really necessary. The scouts are generally local farmers who take on this role to earn an extra income. The effortless way that our scout slung his Kalashnikov over his shoulders didn’t exactly fill us with confidence as to his weapon handling proficiency. Still, the thought of an armed man walking behind you up the steep hills, with his ancient gun pointed in the general direction of your butt, providing an extra incentive to keep moving – even on the steepest slopes!

Ethiopia has more to offer than mountains and scenery

Ethiopia also has more to offer than mountains and scenery. We travelled to the town of Bahir Dar to visit the 14th-century Ethiopian Orthodox monastery of Ura Kidane Mihret on Lake Tana. This may look like a somewhat uninspiring building from the outside, but after crossing the threshold, we were blown away by the 700-year-old paintings that covered every inch of the interior walls. Created by monks using only natural pigments from crushed berries and plants, the paintings spectacularly depict biblical scenes and Ethiopian mythology that have survived the ravages of time. Lake Tana is the source of the Blue Nile, and the Blue Nile Falls are situated nearby, though frankly, at the time of year we visited, these were not worth the several hours spent driving on bad roads to get there.

Friendly faces ©Ken Haley — Friendly local faces ©Ken Haley

An ancient painting in the 14th-century monastery, Ura Kidane Mihret ©Ken Haley

Even more spectacular are the ruins at Gondar. Nestled in the Simien Mountains’ foothills, Gondar was Ethiopia’s ancient capital. Sometimes referred to as the ‘Camelot of Africa’, the city has an impressive royal enclosure of castles and palaces dating back to the 1600s. Gondar is also home to the church of Debre Birhan Selassie, with its walls decorated with paintings of biblical scenes and its ceiling painted with beautiful winged angels.

To top it all was Lalibela in the mountains of northern Ethiopia. Here, we visited the 11 medieval churches, which are all over 800 years old and all carved by hand out of solid rock with ‘the help of angels’. Emperor Lalibela started the construction of these churches after having lived for some time in Jerusalem.

Following Jerusalem’s capture by Muslim forces in 1187, legend has it that a dream told Emperor Lalibela to recreate the splendours of Jerusalem in Ethiopia.

Lalibela has lost none of its power to incite awe, even centuries after its creation. Even more incredible is that, despite their age, these churches are still tended to by white-robed priests who speak Geez – an ancient Semitic tongue. Hermits still live in tiny caves in the walls of the church’s courtyards, and people still pray in these churches every day.

We hiked from our hotel in Lalibela, at an altitude of 2,600 metres, to the 12th-century Asheten Maryam monastery, which towers over the town at a height of 4,000 metres. As we climbed through local villages, we were greeted with calls of “selamta” – meaning ‘welcome’ – and for much of the climb, we were accompanied by an old man wrapped in a ‘repurposed’ Ethiopian Airlines blanket, herding his donkey up the mountain. He derived great enjoyment from my husband’s red-faced huffing and puffing; occasionally, he would place an arm around his shoulders and chuckle with delight as if to some private joke.

Upon reaching the top, the views over Lalibela and the countryside were beautiful. The monastery was the first of the famous Lalibela churches to be started, though the last to be finished, and is still an active church today. About 20 tourists a day visit Asheten Maryam, mostly arriving by bus and scrambling the last short, rocky stretch to the monastery. Apparently, only one or two people per day are “foolish” enough to walk the five-hour round trip like us!

Church of St George in Lalibela ©Ken Haley

Asheten Maryam ©Ken Haley — Scriptures in the Asheten Maryam monastery ©Ken Haley

Best time to visit

The best time to visit the Simien Mountains is in October and November to avoid the rainy season. The dry season is from October through to May, and the wet season runs from June to September.

Health and safety

There is a chance of catching malaria in many parts of Ethiopia, especially in areas below 2,000 metres (6,500 feet). However, Addis Ababa and Ethiopia’s highlands, which include the historical circuit and the Simien Mountains, are at high elevations, so are considered low-risk areas for malaria.

Nevertheless, you may still wish to take precautions. High altitude, however, can manifest itself in several ways, but these altitude-related side effects are not harmful to most individuals.

Travelling in Ethiopia is mostly safe, but you should take the same precautions as you would in any undeveloped country. It is also wise to avoid all border areas as there are still pockets of political unrest.

Where to stay

Find out about Ethiopia for your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

Ethiopia is an experience like no other. Stunning scenery, incredibly rare wildlife, amazing people, and history and ancient culture combine to make it a must-visit destination. If you’re a happy camper, you’ll be pleased to know that there are a few designated camping spots along the hiking trails in the Simien Mountains. We were fortunate to have our travels impeccably organised by Shif Asrat of Simien Trek, who not only seamlessly arranged all of our logistics but also owns Limalimo Lodge – a fabulously located, sustainable luxury eco-lodge located on the edge of the escarpment overlooking the Simien Mountains National Park. This lodge is a perfect place to relax and recuperate after the exertions of trekking.

What to do in Ethiopia

Must-visit places include Lake Tana, Gondar, Lalibela and Axum – all of which can be reached by reliable and regular Ethiopian Airlines domestic flights. You can go by road between towns, but distances are far and, as tourists are not permitted to hire vehicles without a driver, and local buses are not recommended, you will have to use a registered travel company to organise transfers.

The Simien Mountains National Park lies at an altitude ranging between 3,000 and 4,500 metres and is a relatively small slice of a vast mountain range. It has pretty much one trail running through it with various extensions to embark upon, depending on the amount of time and energy you have.

Watch the world float by on Lake Tana ©Luca Zanon

Getting to and around Ethiopia

We flew Ethiopian Airlines, and it is worth noting that if you arrive in Ethiopia on an Ethiopian Airlines international flight, you are eligible for substantial discounts on your domestic flights with the air carrier. There are daily flights to Addis Ababa from both Cape Town and Johannesburg and numerous flights daily between the towns of Gondar, Bahir Dar (Lake Tana), Lalibela and Axum. If you plan to arrive by road, it is advisable to check with your embassy beforehand to find out which borders can be safely crossed.

In general, distances by road in Ethiopia make for long journeys. So if you don’t have a lot of time on your hands, some domestic flights will make a difference.

If you have less than two weeks, I recommend taking some flights, or you’ll spend almost the entire time on the road.
Almost every nationality needs a visa to enter Ethiopia. Single-entry tourist visas that last one to three months can be issued upon arrival at the Bole International Airport in Addis Ababa for most nationalities, but it is worth contacting your local Ethiopian embassy for up-to-date visa information. Proof of an onward or return ticket is frequently requested upon arrival in the country. If you’re planning to enter Ethiopia by land, obtain a tourist visa in advance from your local Ethiopian embassy and consider that this will be valid from the date of issue.

One thing’s for sure – whatever you choose to do or however you choose to do it, a trip to this magical country in the Horn of Africa will surely leave you mesmerised.

About the author

Born and raised in Sydney, Australia, before moving to Africa at age 21, Sarah Kingdom is a mountain guide, traveller, and mother of two. When she is not climbing, she also owns and operates a 3,000-hectare cattle ranch in central Zambia.

She guides and runs trips regularly in India, Nepal, Tibet, Russia, Turkey, and Uganda, and takes travellers up Tanzania’s Mount Kilimanjaro numerous times a year. She will definitely be adding tours to Ethiopia to her repertoire in 2016, so don’t hesitate to drop her a line if you’d like her to lead the way.

Coral trees of South Africa – a study in scarlet

Africa is home to some pretty iconic trees so often see on safari: the mighty and mythical baobab, the bright lime green fever tree, the fruit-bearing marula tree and the charismatic sausage tree, but there is nothing quite as spectacular as flaming coral trees.

“Bright reds – scarlet, pillar-box red, crimson or cherry – are very cheerful and youthful. There is certainly a red for everyone.” – Christian Dior

Written by: Life Green Group and Catherine Browne

Carl Thunberg of Sweden, often regarded as the ‘father of South African botany’, christened this worldwide group of 130 plus scarlet flowering trees Erythrina in the 1770s. Erythrina derives from the Greek word erythros, meaning ‘red’, and inus, meaning ‘possession’ in Latin.

Erythrinas are part of the pea family, Fabaceae – a global phenomenon more commonly called the coral tree or flame tree. Some species of Erythrina grow on the slopes of the Andes, in the Galapagos, through the South Pacific Islands all the way to Asia and the USA.

South Africa is home to species of Erythrina that occur across all climates and biomes, from prime safari territory to botanical gardens such as Kirstenbosch to the streets of Durban.

Because of its stunning red blossoms, it is a popular domestic garden plant too, and at the Botanical Society of South Africa and Life Green Group, we recommend you plant it for the birds, but make sure you choose the correct one for your garden and climate. Indigenous is always the way to go, and with our country’s rich biodiversity, there are always choices.

Erythrina zeyheri – Ploegbreker

The magnificent flowers of the small Erythrina zeyheri act as a red herring for its tumultuous tuber roots that give it its common name ‘ploegbreker’ – as they easily make light work of the farmer’s plough. Due to its hefty root system, this tough deciduous shrub can withstand veld fires and drought. The plant tends to occur in colonies and is extremely hard to remove when it takes hold. It likes grassland, moist vleis and clay soils of Natal, the Free State and Lesotho.

Erythrina latissimi – Broad-leaf coral tree

The broad-leaf coral tree’s scarlet flowers are a hit with bulbuls, starlings, weavers and sunbirds. Dead, the cork-like bark of the tree makes for the ideal home for woodpeckers and barbets, but it takes 100 years for the Erythrina latissimi to die as it is extremely slow-growing.

In many African cultures, the coquelicot red seeds are worn to scare off evil spirits. The tree occurs along the east coast of Southern Africa, where there is no frost. This particular type of Erythrina is known for its large leaves and impressive canopy, but it will uproot pavements, so avoid putting it near buildings.

Erythrina lysistemon – The lucky bean tree

This is the most well-known of all the African coral trees because it is so attractive and brings with it an ark of animals. Black rhinos, kudu, elephants and baboons love its leaves. Certain birds, bees and insects come for its iconic flowers, and the brown-headed parrot disperses the tree’s lucky seeds.

Traditionally, these coral trees are planted on the graves of Zulu chiefs and are used intensively in traditional Zulu landscaping around the village and kraals. It was also one of the first trees to be used in domestic gardens in colonial times because of its flashy good looks. There are a few towns in South Africa with streets lined with the lucky bean tree, but it naturally occurs in northern South Africa, Botswana, Zimbabwe and all the way up to Angola.

Some of the best specimens of the lucky bean tree are found in Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden in Cape Town.

Erythrina caffra – Coastal coral tree

The largest and most attractive Erythrina caffra occur in Addo Elephant National Park. The flowers of the coastal coral tree differ slightly from others as they have a touch of terracotta. It has become a popular garden tree in the Cape as its long-lasting winter blossoms warm the long coastal winters.

Erythrina acanthocarpa – Tamboekie thorn

The tamboekie thorn is endemic to the Eastern Cape of South Africa in the Queenstown region but is subsequently not that common anymore. Early colonialists reported that the veld was ablaze with the burning red flowers of these coral trees when they passed through.

The scarlet flower of the Erythrina acanthocarpa is fringed with a yellow-green colour. Its Latin name is formed from the Greek word acanthrocarpa meaning thorn, and karpos, translating to fruit.

It is a popular garden plant, but like the ploegbreker, it has a large root system and will uproot infrastructures. In the past, the tamboekie thorn’s large tuber was even used to make a light summer hat. It is frost-resistant and easy to grow from seeds, but sadly, it’s hard to find because of its conservation status.

Erythrina humeana – Dwarf coral tree

The dwarf coral tree is ideal for a small garden, especially in dense housing complexes with limited green space. The shrub produces an impressive display of scarlet flowers en-masse, attracting many birds which are fond of its nectar. It can tolerate harsh cold and frost by entering winter dormancy and re-sprouting from its large, swollen, tuberous roots as soon as spring arrives.

The Botanical Society of South Africa’s mission is to win the hearts, minds and support of individuals and organisations for the conservation, cultivation, study and wise use of the indigenous flora and vegetation of Southern Africa. Coral trees are as important as lions and elephants.

Who are the Black Mambas?

Meet the Black Mambas anti-poaching unit, the all-female anti-poaching unit that is making waves in conservation. Written by: Lee-Ann Olwage

The Black Mamba anti-poaching unit was founded in 2013 by Transfrontier Africa – created to protect the Olifants West Region of Balule Nature Reserve in Greater Kruger, South Africa.

The United Nations have recently awarded the Mambas The Champions of the Earth Award for 2015. This is a remarkable achievement and shows that the world is noticing the incredible work these women are doing.

The Black Mambas are often portrayed as women doing a man’s job. But perhaps that is not the case. Perhaps they are women doing what women do best: nurturing, educating, and caring for our communities and wildlife.

When Craig Spencer from Transfrontier Africa was asked to help with the increasing poaching problem, he realised that a new approach was needed. Poaching is evolving, and the poachers now have access to greater tools than before. He knew that we couldn’t solve the same old problem with the same old tools. A new approach was needed. Hence, the Black Mamba initiative came into being.

“We need a rapid return on our investment and, therefore, we invest in the women of these communities.” The women take care of their families, the sick and the elderly. They are the ones harvesting firewood and providing for the household. The women are the heart and soul of the community, and by investing in them, Craig knew that he was investing in the future of these communities and our natural heritage.

Initially, the men laughed at the women, telling them not to go out and do a man’s job but rather stay home to cook and clean. This perception soon changed, and the Mambas are now highly respected within their communities and valued for their work.

The Black Mamba initiative is a social upliftment programme that addresses unemployment and assists with skills development in South Africa. All Black Mamba recruits are from local, previously disadvantaged communities, and they go through a rigorous six-week training programme prior to deployment with an existing unit to further their training through work experience.

“Yes, our main objective is the protection of wildlife, but we also strive to create a strong bond and educate the communities that live on the boundaries of Balule and the Greater Kruger about the benefits of saving their natural heritage. We believe the war on poaching will not be won with guns and bullets, but through the local communities and education,” says Spencer.

Camels, nomads and an oasis in Ennedi

Head 900km north-east of Chad’s capital, N’Djamena, and you’ll discover the wondrous Ennedi Plateau. Rich red sandstone formations tower more than 100 metres above the Saharan sand. However, given that there are no roads in the area and certainly no infrastructure on the ground, less than a few hundred tourists experience this remarkable landscape a year.

Australian photographers Kym and Tonya Illman recently spent some time in Ennedi, keen to photograph an ancient pool of water called the Guelta d’Archei. The Guelta is a magnet for hundreds of desert travellers looking to rest their camels and goats and replenish water supplies.

Despite the fact that this watering hole measures less than 200 metres in length, and there is no other water for kilometres, it is home to half a dozen rare dwarf Nile crocodiles. Photographically, it is a goldmine of opportunities and with so few making the long trek each year, the images the Illmans captured were certainly rare and no doubt worthy of inclusion in any future revised edition of their book, Africa on Safari.

Here are 12 photos (along with Kym’s explanations) that we feel capture the region perfectly:

1. Ennedi Camp

Travelling to the plateau on our own was never an option. Three government departments needed to sign off on our visit and given that there are absolutely no facilities or roads in the region, we enlisted a local tour company, SVS. They sorted out the permits, allowing us to fly into the region and land just 15 minutes from the Guelta. During our two-night stay, three four-wheel-drive vehicles ferried us, the camp gear and Rocco Rava’s team of five people around the plateau. The food and bedding were fine, but do bring your own sleeping bag (we missed that bit).

I climbed up a rock formation for this picture to gain an elevated position.

2. Toubou nomad

This Toubou nomad was heading out of the Guelta, having just spent 30 minutes refilling his goat-skin water bag and resting his camel.

3. Huge walls

It’s hard to imagine just how grand the Guelta d’Archei really is until you see an image like this and realise that those small specks on the ground in the distance are eight-foot-tall camels enjoying a drink at this ancient waterhole.

4. Legs

I’d long wanted a shot like this featuring hundreds of camel legs. The Guelta d’Archei was ideal as individual caravans of up to 200 camels arrive regularly at this waterhole. We only had two nights in the area and were most fortunate to get this shot just 90 minutes before departing for Zakouma on our third day.

5. Camels amongst the rocks

We chartered a C182, four-seat Cessna aircraft from MAF to fly us into (and out of) Ennedi. On the way in and out, we circled numerous times over the Guelta, shooting with a 70-200mm lens from the open passenger side window to get unique aerial shots like this one of a camel caravan relaxing alongside the cool water.

6. Shooting down the Guelta

This shot, taken from our plane under the control of pilot Phil Henderson, looks directly down the Guelta d’Archei. As you can see, the nomad herders have separated their camels, worth around US$1,500 each, to avoid mixing livestock. It’s hard to believe that the scene here would have been any different many hundreds of years ago. The area is timeless except for one 20-metre section of graffiti on one of the rock walls.

7. Kym and Tonya with a Toubou nomad

It would have been very difficult, if not impossible, to photograph this colourful Toubou nomad without the assistance of Rocco, our guide. Rocco speaks the local dialect and liaised with the herders who were initially not open to such photography.

8. Guelta reflection

Walking through the Geulta d’Archei’s soft sand, peppered with camel droppings, you feel like you are in an enormous, open-air cathedral. The walls rise vertically to around 100m, with the gap between the sides as little as 20m in some parts. This water is stagnant and almost black in colour with the droppings of thousands of camels.

9. Towering rock formations

Rocks like these abound on the Ennedi Plateau. You may have seen this one that was climbed on the North Face video. It is a beacon to rock climbers worldwide, although I was more than happy to view it from the safety of the ground.

10. Guelta from the air

The water level in the Guelta was a little low on the days we were in the area. From this aerial shot, you can see the water on the right is very shallow and can easily be walked across. At wetter times, this water could be knee-deep.

11. Rock formations

The rock formations in the Ennedi Plateau are vast and varied. The best time to visit is from December to February when the maximum daytime temperature is 30ºC, compared to May/June when the mercury can reach 40ºC.

12. Camels en route

On our final morning, we were thrilled to see two large caravans of camels saunter past our camp en route to the Guelta. Each group comprised around 100 camels and was tended to by just one or two young boys, who were probably in their early teens. Once again, our guide, Rocco smoothed over the initial “no photographs” response.

How China’s taste for wildlife feeds a killing frenzy

Africa’s extraordinary and charismatic wildlife is clearly under siege from the wrecking ball of demand from China. Heading the list of critically damaged species are elephants. As the world’s largest consumer, hunger for ivory from China is stimulating transnational organised crime, trashing ecosystems, flooding areas with weapons, perverting legal systems and causing mounting tension in elephant-range communities. Written by: Don Pinnock

According to detailed reports by international environmental organisations such as the Born Free Foundation and the Environmental Investigation Agency, nationals from China have been involved in ivory-related offences in virtually every African range state. They are closely connected to all steps along the ivory value chain other than physical poaching, for which they use African proxies. At Bole Airport in Ethiopia, a conduit for flights to Asia, a CITES report noted that more than 85% of transit passengers caught with illegal ivory in 2014 were from China.

Beyond Africa’s borders, nationals from China operate illicit networks that liaise with African poaching gangs, set up shell companies, bribe cargo handlers at various ports, then move the product through Asian entry points for sale to carving factories.

The Born Free Foundation has estimated that about 70% of ivory in the markets of China is illegal and that the laundering of illegal wildlife products is widespread. Its report, Africa’s Curse, describes the ivory trade as a massive, ongoing illicit resource transfer from Africa to Asia: “It’s robbing local communities of an important source of potential wealth, destroying the potential of critical economic sectors such as tourism, and financing a wide range of predatory and corrupt actors across the continent. Locals incur the majority of risk and bear the majority of costs, but receive a minority of profits.”

Chinese law prevents the killing and sale of protected species, and last year Premier Xi Jinping pledged to enact “a near complete ban” on the import and export of ivory. China’s Wildlife Protection Law is undergoing its first major revision in 26 years since it came into force. There was hope that this would signal a crackdown on poaching and wildlife trade. However, the draft, currently under public consultation, states that wildlife can be used in the manufacture of Chinese traditional medicine, healthcare products and food for profit. According to the EIA, if this draft becomes law it would open, rather than close, the loopholes in wildlife trafficking.

Elephants Without Borders estimates Africa’s present elephant population at about 600,000. Using carcass counts and consignment seizure numbers, researchers calculate that about 230,000 elephants were poached between 2009 and 2015. TRAFFIC, an investigation agency established by the World Wildlife Fund for Nature and the International Union for the Conservation of Nature, found that in 2013 the kill rate was running at 50,000 a year, yielding roughly 400 tonnes of ivory.

The effect on herds is devastating. By targeting tuskers, poachers are culling prime-aged males, skewing sex ratios and disrupting families, resulting in an increased number of orphans. In short, elephant populations are crashing and, within most of our lifetimes, will probably become extinct in the wild. This is also true for rhinos, pangolins, tigers, black bears and many other species that are victims of the Asian market.

According to the report Ivory’s Curse by the Born Free Foundation, there are three main elephant killing fields with a fourth – Southern Africa – soon to follow as more northerly herds are shot out. These are West Africa, the Congo Basin (home to forest elephants) and the East African savanna. In these areas, according to the report, ivory poaching has increasingly become a lifeline commodity for militias excluded from the global financial system, such as the Lord’s Resistance Army in Uganda, the Sudanese Janjaweed and al-Shabaab in Somalia. Much of the killing has been to fund wars.

Large tracts of northern and Central Africa are ungoverned and highly insecure for both humans and elephants, providing easy access for armed groups. North and South Sudan have been almost entirely stripped of once-huge herds of elephant, buffalo, giraffe and zebra. The ongoing conflict in South Sudan has seen the elephant population there drop from 130,000 to fewer than 5,000 today.

North Sudanese militias sanctioned by the Khartoum government — including the Janjaweed, which committed atrocities in Darfur — were reported to be mounting ivory raids into Chad, Cameroon, the Central African Republic and the Democratic Republic of Congo. In the DRC they compete with the Congolese army, FARDC, who are the region’s worst poachers. This hunting is a continuation of wildlife harvesting across equatorial Africa that saw more than three million elephants killed in the 19th century.

Equatorial poaching is increasingly targeting secretive forest elephants, which have harder ivory favoured by Japanese carvers for Hanko stamps used to mark documents with sealing wax. In Gabon, commercial logging — largely under Chinese concessions — is driving roads deep into the rainforest, providing access to poachers who use logging containers packed on-site to smuggle ivory.

However, according to Ivory’s Curse, the highest level of elephant poaching is in East Africa where the main enabler is not armed militias but state corruption. Between 2010 and 2012, hundreds of live animals were captured and shipped out of Tanzania, without legal documentation, in one case on a Qatari military plane.

Tanzania is the elephant poaching epicentre. In the 1970s the Selous-Mikumi region in southern Tanzania had one of the world’s great elephant herds, numbering well over 100,000. Today there are about 13,000. Poaching is done with military precision. Last month, poachers shot and killed the pilot of a conservation agency helicopter that was tracking them.

The situation is similar in Kenya. In 1979 it had 167,000 elephants, but today only about 28,000 survive. In Mozambique, nearly 20,000 elephants and all of its rhinos were poached between 2009 and 2013.

Born Free warns that Southern Africa, with two-thirds of Africa’s surviving elephants, is the last haven. The area, it says, is likely to see a rapid increase in poaching in the near future as elephant populations decline elsewhere.

There are already alarming incidents, such as the ongoing cyanide poisoning of waterholes in Zimbabwe, which has killed hundreds of elephants and other animals. Rampant rhino poaching in Kruger National Park serves as a warning about the difficulty of ensuring the future of southern elephants.

What is to be done? A study, Species of Crime, by Jackson Miller, Varun Vira and Mary Utermohlen on African wildlife trafficking says understanding the flow of ivory is essential if it’s to be contained. “Ivory flows upstream along its value chain, from low-value poaching in the ‘bush’ across Africa into the hands of established African and Asian criminal networks. These move it through the international transport system to market tens of thousands of miles away. After a tusk is removed from an elephant, there is an abrupt transfer from the nonprofessional but often highly militarised poaching networks that carry out the killing, to more professional trafficking networks. These are capable of nesting their illicit activities within the legal international trade and transportation systems.”

The value of ivory or any poached species increases in value with the distance from the killing. On average, the price increase for ivory between the poacher and final sale in China is around 4,000%. In line with their particular skills, each actor occupies a unique place in this value chain. One of these, often unknown to themselves, is legitimate container firms.

According to the Species of Crime report, many Asian organised crime networks appear to be consolidating and expanding their operational range on both ends of the chain. They’re reaching ever closer to the actual source of ivory in Africa, while expanding from trafficking into the Asian retail sectors, then deeper into direct involvement with black market carving factories. With increasingly professionalised networks, they’re also involved in the movement of abalone, narcotics, weapons, precious minerals such as diamonds and coltan, human trafficking and money laundering.

According to Ivory’s Curse, the way to contain poaching is to harden the environment through which ivory moves, making transmission too costly and dangerous for traffickers. Given the poverty in Africa and the remoteness of wild animal ranges, it says, the killing is difficult to stop. Changing consumer tastes at the Asian end of the chain may also take too long, leading to species extinction before it becomes effective.

The vulnerable point is the transmission network — the forest edge to African ports and landing ports in Asia. If these could be hit hard, says the report, with kingpin traffickers ending in jail and consignments constantly disrupted, it would make the whole exercise too costly for traffickers and stifle the value chain.

The biggest stumbling block, according to the Born Free Foundation, is corrupt officials, particularly in Africa. This corruption, it says, goes all the way from crooked customs, CITES, police and park officials to entire government departments and elected executives. As China increases its investment and influence in Africa, governments are clearly unwilling to upset relationships by condemning the damaging environmental practices that follow the Asian giant’s voracious demand for the continent’s raw materials.

The massive decline of elephants and rhinos are just two of many examples that suffer from this lack of restraint or official sanction. As earlier colonial regimes have demonstrated throughout history, there is a permeable margin between commercial extraction and looting.

World’s rarest antelope, the hirola, flourishes under community conservation

Conservation efforts in northern Kenya are bringing back the world’s most endangered antelope from the edge of extinction. Numbers of hirola in the Ishaqbini Hirola Sanctuary have doubled in just three and a half years. By Northern Rangelands Trust

Most people have never heard of the hirola. The fawn-coloured antelope is a shy animal with a long, thin face and spectacled eyes. And yet, this unassuming creature is the centre of what may be one of the most successful conservation efforts in recent history and a wonderful safari attraction. The heroes are the equally unassuming Somali pastoralists who live alongside them on the east bank of the Tana River.

The Abdullah Somali community that runs the Ishaqbini Conservancy in north-east Kenya has always had a fondness for the hirola, whose docile nature has earned it the nickname of ‘the stupid antelope’ in other communities. It is endemic to north-east Kenya and south-west Somalia, but populations have declined by over 80% since 1990. Numerous factors, including disease, hunting and loss of grasslands, have contributed to this.

Ishaqbini is part of a network of 33 community conservancies in northern Kenya, operating under the Northern Rangelands Trust (NRT) umbrella. Together, they manage over 44,000 km² of land, stretching from the Indian Ocean to the Great Rift Valley. They are conserving wildlife, building a safari tourism industry, securing peace, and building resilient livelihoods for rural communities on the back of it.

Sourcing the funding and support they needed through Northern Rangelands Trust, the Kenya Wildlife Service and others, the Ishaqbini community built a 3,000-hectare, predator-proof enclosure in an attempt to protect the last remaining hirola in their area. In August 2012, 48 hirola were herded up from surrounding areas and moved into the sanctuary. This was the first fenced sanctuary on community land in Kenya dedicated to conserving a critically endangered species.

The Ishaqbini Conservancy team raised awareness about the plight of the hirola amongst the local people and dedicated conservancy rangers to anti-poaching patrols outside the sanctuary and full-time monitoring of individual hirola herds in the sanctuary. Through NRT, they had access to expert scientific advice to help them shape their conservation and management strategies. But not even they could have predicted the impact that these efforts would have.

In January 2016, an aerial and ground survey revealed how much their hard work had paid off. An estimated 97 hirola were found within the sanctuary, and several heavily pregnant females promise to bring this number into the hundreds very soon. From an initial population of just 48, hirola numbers have doubled in just three and a half years.

“The 50% increase in hirola numbers epitomises the opportunity and strength of the growing community conservation movement across Kenya,” says NRT’s Director of Conservation, Ian Craig. “The future of Kenya’s wildlife is inextricably linked with the development of the communities that live with wildlife. Kenya’s community conservancies are widely recognised worldwide as one of the most innovative models in Africa, empowering people to make informed decisions about managing their land whilst benefitting from wildlife and accessing new and alternative income from safari tourism.”

NRT member conservancies are managed by democratically elected boards and staffed by local people, often mixing ethnic groups that have historically fought with one another. Although the conservancies are still dependent on donor funds, they raise increasingly large sums from commercial activities related to conservation (through NRT Trading Ltd.), county governments and tourism. The profits are being channelled into education, health care and development activities.

With particular thanks to The Nature Conservancy, USAID Kenya and the Kenya Wildlife Service for their support of the hirola project.

Would you like to see hirola in the wild? See our safaris to TSAVO in Kenya – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

Saving a little elephant

Elephants Alive received the call at lunchtime on Tuesday, 16 February 2016. An elephant calf was trapped in a dam at Phalaborwa Copper, Limpopo. Written by: Mike Kendrick

The Elephants Alive team raced into action and were soon on site. Inspection of the dam revealed numerous scuff marks from elephants trying to rescue the calf. Elephants form such strong family and maternal bonds that one can only imagine how distressed the baby, mother, and herd must have been.

Wildlife Supervisor Johann McDonald and his team rescued the baby and loaded him onto a truck. They had tried in vain to reintroduce him to the breeding herds still in the vicinity, but the little calf began looking weak and needing rehydration.

The calf was transferred to the Elephants Alive vehicle and doused with water to keep him cool and covered with wet blankets on a mattress. He was then transferred to a holding stable at a wildlife rehabilitation facility in Hoedspruit.

On arrival at the facility, the full extent of the trauma became clear. The distressed calf called repeatedly, vainly trying to locate its mother. Bruised areas over each eye were clearly visible – injuries incurred while trapped in the dam. The calf was unloaded with great care and guided towards an open stable door. Once inside, he continued to totter about and bellow, understandably disorientated.

The assembled team calmed him, and he took some rehydration fluids from a bottle. Exhaustion flooded over him, and he lay down while his team of wildlife vets set up a saline drip to further rehydrate him and administered antibiotics. Elephant calves are notoriously difficult to rear as they require precise nutrients in their milk.

His future is by no means certain, but once again, the Elephants Alive team have done all they can to support one of these incredible animals. They will check up on Amanzi (meaning water in isiZulu) regularly and explore potential sources of milk formula to assist in his much hoped-for recovery.

Asia’s Golden Triangle – a conduit of death for Africa’s animals

China’s desire for exotic animals, tastes and products will probably push wild elephants, rhinos, pangolins and many other species to extinction within the next 10 to 15 years. Asia’s Golden Triangle is the epicentre of the problem. Written by: Don Pinnock

This trade destabilises many African countries as poachers, armed by organised criminal syndicates, outgun security forces, loot villages and decimate animal populations. Their bloody haul is mostly transported by Asian agents who bribe officials and undermine the security of national states.

We begin in the lawless, drug-soaked jungles of Asia’s Golden Triangle. In the jungle along the Mekong River is a palatial casino named Kings Romans where you can order freshly killed bear cub steak, grilled pangolin, tiger penis or gecko fillet, and wash it all down with wine matured in a vat containing lion bones.

The shop offers rhino horn libation cups and bracelets or, for more conventional tastes, religious sculptures and jewellery made from poached African ivory. After a night at the gambling tables, you can pay a beautiful young woman to accompany you to bed. Chinese guests are preferred.

However, if you cannot settle your gambling debts, you will be locked in the local jail until your relatives pay. If they don’t, you could, apparently, be led into the jungle and shot.

Kings Romans is one of a number of such establishments in the Golden Triangle, thickly forested borderlands between Laos, Thailand, Myanmar and China. It’s an area of lawlessness and rebel armies from which much of the world’s heroin and amphetamines come. Similar ‘resorts’ include Allure, God of Fortune, Fantasy Garret, Regina, Mong Lah and Boten.

The Golden Triangle is a conduit of death for an unimaginable number of Africa’s iconic animals.

This information is offered matter-of-factly over a cup of coffee in Cape Town’s Waterfront by an unusual Kenya-based undercover investigator and self-confessed troublemaker named Karl Ammann. Unusual because he works alone and digs out explosive information, often at a considerable financial cost to himself. A troublemaker because he’s uncompromising in exposing wildlife traffickers, as well as governments and respected international conservation organisations, when they become part of the problem.

His motivations – an inquisitive nature and a fierce desire to protect wildlife – are often suspect because he has no political or organisational affiliations. He’s an elegant, widely-travelled, deeply knowledgeable, principled maverick. Not to mention the delightful company. But how reliable was his information? Corroboration came from a startling report, Sin City, completed last year by the Environmental Investigation Agency (EIA) in conjunction with Education for Nature Vietnam.

“Laos,” begins the report, “has become a lawless playground, catering to the desires of visiting Chinese gamblers and tourists who can openly purchase and consume illegal wildlife products and parts, including those of endangered tigers. There is not even a pretence of enforcement. Sellers and buyers are free to trade a host of endangered species products, including tigers, leopards, elephants, rhinos, pangolins, helmeted hornbills, snakes and bears, poached from Asia and Africa and smuggled to this small haven for wildlife crime. [It is] largely catering to growing numbers of Chinese visitors.”

Ammann began exploring the jungle regions of Southeast Asia while visiting his brother, who ran a hotel in Bangkok. He discovered the village of Mong La in Boko Province, the last Burmese outpost before China. “That was 40 years ago,” he says wistfully. “Today, it’s another sordid casino town thriving on drugs and prostitution, but then it was beautiful. I made contacts, went on expeditions, met hill tribes.”

On return visits, he realised things were changing fast and he began to document them. Wildlife trading was becoming an issue and he used his connections to probe it, first with questions and later with sophisticated button cameras and secret recordings.

“Because of my economic background [he worked in hotel finance], I was fascinated by the changing dynamic from sleepy hill station to illicit marketplace and conduit into China,” he says. “I was able to track changes in the area and thought I could make a contribution to conservation by letting the world know. It became something of an obsession.”

Those changes were to be devastating for elephants, rhinos, pangolins, tigers, bears and many creatures interesting to Oriental taste, superstition and aesthetics. In the uncontrolled, drug-saturated Golden Triangle, the illicit was profitable and law the prerogative of anyone wealthy enough to arm and command unscrupulous men. The area was to become, alongside the trafficking of narcotics and humans, China’s illegal wildlife supermarket. Ammann tried to get information out about what was going on. Nobody seemed interested. The area was a blank on the media map.

The transformation of Mong La became a model for the establishment of lawless outposts across the region catering for Chinese customers in search of products and pleasures forbidden in their country. Over the Burmese border in Laos, a Chinese company acquired a 99-year lease on 10,000 hectares of riverside jungle and built Kings Romans Casino, giving the government a 20% stake. Around 3,000 hectares have been declared a ‘special economic zone’ – essentially a private fiefdom. Clocks there run in Beijing time, trade is done in Chinese currency and businesses are Chinese-owned.

These casino towns make their own rules. Sellers and buyers are free to trade endangered species, while governments within the Golden Triangle curb any potential law enforcement. According to the EIA report, “the blatant illegal wildlife trade by Chinese companies in this part of Laos should be a national embarrassment and yet it appears to enjoy high-level political support from the Laos Government, blocking any potential law enforcement.”

Other developments include a private landing dock for boats, a hotel, massage parlours, museums, gardens, a temple, banquet halls, an animal enclosure, a shooting range and a large banana plantation. In these surrounds, and with de facto immunity from any known law, the illegal wildlife trade is booming.

Ammann acknowledges the value of reports such as Sin City and the integrity of the EIA but tells me they don’t go deep enough.

“You can’t find out about these networks like conservation NGOs do – by going around with a notebook logging items. You have to infiltrate,” he says, hunching over his coffee and looking the part. “That means buying from sellers – and I do that. The moment money changes hands, it becomes much easier. You get the information you wouldn’t get by just snooping around. So, I’m pushing the envelope – which most NGOs have a problem with.

“I send in my guys as bogus sellers of rhino horn. They show photographs and say: ‘We can get access to this. How much would you offer?’ In contraband investigation, that’s pretty common, but in the wildlife trade, few people are willing to go to that extent. If I give NGOs this data, they say they need to verify it. But they’re not prepared to use my methods, so how can they do that?”

Ammann’s methods of tracing networks through secret recordings and a bogus website he set up have paid off. He has traced the circuitous smuggling routes out of Africa and tracked down crooked officials and countless bogus export/import permits supposedly verified by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES).

He found that the wildlife trade in China is dominated by a handful of key players behind container imports. They have the infrastructure in Africa to get the containers loaded and shipped. They work with retailers, sending cell phone pictures ahead, signalling, say, 20 rhino horns on the way. They’ve operated with port authorities and key dealers for many years.

In 2008, China legally bought 66 tonnes of ivory from Africa in a CITES-sanctioned sale and built the world’s largest ivory-carving factory. It had listed ivory carving as an Intangible Cultural Heritage two years before that.

According to a report, Out of Africa, by C4ADS and the Born Free Foundation, China presently has 37 registered (and countless unregistered) carving factories and 145 retail outlets. A survey of the outlets found that most ivory items had no identity cards, meaning their source was illegal. In 2013, a contraband seizure in Guangzhou included 1,913 tusks – meaning almost one thousand dead elephants.

A 2002 document sourced by the EIA includes a Chinese official reporting the loss of 99 tonnes of ivory from government stockpiles – greater than the amount procured in the 2008 one-off sale. An NGO report in 2013 estimated that 70% of the ivory circulating in China was illicit and that 57% of licensed ivory facilities were laundering illegal ivory.

“I’m not sure to what extent China’s enforcement activity is real,” says Ammann. “It’s mostly for Western consumption. They sacrifice a shipment every now and then, and that’s probably part of the plan. Maybe they give the container back to the dealer after six months.

“If traders get a tipoff that the Chinese government is curbing the sale of ivory in China, they send the message down the line saying shift your ivory somewhere else. Laos, Burma, Vietnam. That’s where some of the big dealers have set up their operations, places like Kings Romans. It just means the conduit routes to China are shifting. Sales in China may be going down, but they’re going through the roof just over the border.

“Hong Kong is now coming under pressure, so dealers no longer see it as the future of rhino horn or ivory trade. They’re looking for new outlets in the Golden Triangle, Luang Prabang and Vientiane in Laos and in Vietnam. And if you put pressure on those countries, it will probably move to Cambodia.”

The truth is that the demand for wild animals, alive or dead, remains high, which is not good news for Africa’s animals. “Wildlife traders are running circles around us,” says Ammann, glancing at his watch because he has another appointment. “They’re fooling us, and most of them are Asian. And most of the NGOs – EIA is the exception – have operations in China or Thailand or whatever, so they can’t rock the boat too much. For an NGO, being banned from a region is a big problem. They can be the good cop but can’t afford to play the bad cop. I can afford to be that cop. The problem is getting the information out. Where and how can it make a difference?”

The only hope for elephants and rhinos and other creatures, he says, is if the risk factor is ratcheted up with some of the lynchpins ending up in jail. Hit the supply chains.

“If the world really became serious about enforcement instead of becoming serious about talking about enforcement, it would be a major step in the right direction. But it will only come on the back of face loss. We have to name and shame. But for myself, I want to be able to look at myself in the mirror in the morning. So I keep telling the facts and truth as I see them, knowing fully well that I will not win any popularity contests.”

Carnivores in decline due to land reform

Before the year 2000, wildlife in Zimbabwe was thriving, partly due to the role played by private landowners such as commercial farmers. Private land was home to important populations of endangered species, including 80% of Zimbabwe’s cheetahs and other carnivores. Zimbabwe was held up as a model for how land can be effectively managed for the benefit of animals and people, and other countries soon adopted their policies and replicated their success. Written by: Dr Sam Williams

However, a fast-track land reform programme was initiated in 2000 in Zimbabwe, resulting in the haphazard resettlement of large numbers of people onto enormous areas of private land. The impacts of this process on people, such as hyperinflation, poverty, and the collapse of the healthcare system, made international headlines. But until now, no one has systematically studied how the wildlife populations were affected.

My colleagues and I set out to change this. With the help of experienced trackers, we conducted spoor (footprint) surveys across a thousand kilometres of transects on three land-use types: private land, resettlement land (former private land that had now been resettled), and communal land in Savé Valley Conservancy (SVC) and the surrounding area in south-eastern Zimbabwe. The spoor records allowed us to estimate the abundance of large carnivores in each area.

The author recording carnivore spoor in Zimbabwe. ©Sam Williams — The author recording carnivore spoor in Zimbabwe ©Sam Williams

We focused our analyses on large carnivores, as they are important flagship and keystone species, and our scientific findings were recently published here. On average, the spoor density of carnivores was 98% lower on resettlement land than on private land. When we extrapolate this to a national scale, our tentative findings suggest that the land reform programme has resulted in a decline in the number of large carnivores of up to 70% across the country. Worryingly, we also found that merely being close to resettlement areas was sufficient to cause declines in wildlife abundance on private land. The main driver appears to be industrial levels of poaching.

This is clearly bad news for wildlife but also bad news for people. The declines in wildlife populations could have resulted in the loss of many associated benefits, such as jobs, food security and income. We also conducted hundreds of interviews to assess the level of human-wildlife conflict and found that conflict has spiked. We found that resettlement farmers reported much higher rates of cattle losses to carnivores than farmers in communal areas despite investing more heavily in anti-predator techniques.

Carnivores — Endangered species such as African wild dog are under severe pressure due to land reform ©Sam Williams

Our conclusions are that Zimbabwe’s land reform programme has been catastrophic for wildlife and human-wildlife conflict.

What lessons can we learn from this?

Planning resettlement schemes carefully would be a good start rather than allowing them to occur haphazardly. This would allow resettlement areas to be located in areas of greater agricultural potential while maintaining wildlife populations’ connectivity. We also recommend using fencing wire that cannot easily be used to manufacture snares. When land is resettled, the steel strands commonly used in fence construction are often stolen and used for snaring.

Most importantly, however, we stress that land reform doesn’t have to mean changing land use. Land reform initiatives should maintain wildlife as a land use where it is most appropriate while diversifying the ethnic profile of landowners. Leasing resettled land back to the former owners could benefit wildlife while raising more income for new owners than switching to subsistence farming. Bringing in community members as stakeholders on private land and allowing them to benefit economically from wildlife will also encourage them to protect, rather than poach, animals.

Cheetah appear to have suffered the greatest population decline due to their dependence on private land to survive ©Sam Williams

Many potential models for achieving land reform in more productive and sustainable ways exist. By taking this opportunity to develop innovative models of land reform, Zimbabwe could once again become a world leader in managing land for the benefit of wildlife and people.

Elusive animals caught on camera trap

In August last year, I undertook an assignment for WWF in the Zambezi Region of Namibia. We aimed to obtain high-quality camera trap images of elusive animals, some of which had only ever been photographed on research cameras before.

The Zambezi region is a narrow strip of land, formerly known as the Caprivi Strip, which runs between Botswana and Angola, all the way to the Zambezi River in the East. It is the heart of the Kavango–Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area, known as KAZA, which links wildlife populations in Angola, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana and Namibia. WWF works with the governments, local communities and species conservation programmes throughout the KAZA region.

For many years, Lise Hanssen has been studying wildlife populations in the region, with a particular focus on the carnivores. Her research utilised over 100 research camera traps to build up a picture of predator populations for the first time. She could identify the ranges of leopards, lions, hyenas and African wild dogs. Her findings prove this area is importance to carnivore populations and movements throughout the KAZA region.

I teamed up with WWF and Lise to try to capture high-quality photographs of her study subjects. However, it quickly became apparent that this would not be easy, as the carnivores are extremely elusive and hard to see. I spent two weeks in Namibia trying to find and photograph them, but they didn’t glimpse a single one!

Fortunately, we had foreseen this challenge, and I had come prepared with five camera trap systems. These are similar to Lise’s research cameras but incorporate a high-quality DSLR camera instead.

I relied on Lise’s research and expertise to identify several promising sites for my traps. These included locations both inside and outside the national parks. At the end of my trip, I left my cameras in place so they could continue working for another 10 weeks.

Lise’s predictions were spot on, and over the following weeks, my camera traps started capturing images of the key species we were after, including leopards, hyenas, African wild dogs and even a serval cat.

cameratrap-serval-will-burrard-lucas — ©Will Burrard-Lucas/WWF-US

cameratrap-hyena-will-burrard-lucas — ©Will Burrard-Lucas/WWF-US

Of course, my traps also photographed many other creatures. One trap in particular, positioned near a waterhole in the Mashi Conservancy, captured an incredible number of animals, including elephants, giraffes, eland, wildebeest and bushpigs. It also took thousands of photos of guineafowls. In fact, I estimate that I had 10 images of guineafowls for every other animal photographed. Sorting through them all took quite a while!

The greatest challenge of all was photographing the lions. These cats are extremely shy and spend much of their time outside the national parks. Even Lise has never seen them other than on her research cameras. I set up two camera traps near waterholes that the lions sometimes visit. In the three months that my traps were operating, the lions passed by twice, resulting in some rare shots of these secretive big cats.

I hope that my images, in combination with WWF’s efforts and Lise’s valuable research, can help inspire conservation action in this important part of the KAZA region.

You can follow Lise Hanssen’s research on the Kwando Carnivore Project Facebook page.

The secret Garden Route

Anyone who has ever been lucky enough to visit South Africa on safari will know that there’s nowhere in the country quite like the Garden Route. Whether you admire the views from a lookout point or brave the 216-metre high bungee jump off Bloukrans Bridge, the forested coastal area between Heidelberg and Storms River will take your breath away.

Having moved to South Africa a few years ago, I knew this stretch of paradise to be famed for some of the best beaches, restaurants and hotels in the country, but what I didn’t realise was how many beautiful enclaves and secret hideaways lie tucked away off the beaten track, along with a healthy dose of adventure for good measure.

The call of the sand and the sea may always have been strong, but with the chance to explore hidden gorges and indigenous forests, I found plenty of ways to pass the days away from the hordes of tourists. Once I’d perfected my tan and caught up on some sleep, of course.

Garden Route — Cover image provided by Eden Adventures (above), The stunning Sedgefield beach ©David Winch (right)

My particular four-night holiday started at the opulent Hunter’s Country House on what used to be an old farm between Knysna and Plettenberg. Set far from the madding ‘high season’ crowd in flowering gardens fit for a fairytale, this is a hotel that you could quite easily never leave. And if its surrounding areas hadn’t been quite as appealing, I’m not convinced that I would ever have parted ways with my private swimming pool and cheese platter. But dinner at The Fat Fish beckoned, and the moment that the tempura prawn salad touched my lips, I was happy to have briefly torn away from the comfort of my gigantic bed.

After the best night’s sleep of my adult life, I ventured further afield the following morning to embark on a Secret Elephants Forest Experience near the town of Knysna with Gareth Patterson. The Knysna forests form the largest closed-canopy forest in southern Africa, and I could not pass up the chance to explore the tranquil habitat of Knysna’s elusive elephants, as described in Gareth’s book, The Secret Elephants. They chose not to reveal themselves on our drive and forest strolls that morning, but we did come across their tracks, dung and other evidence of their existence. However, it was enough for me to wander their sacred home and learn about their diet, range and numbers from an expert.

master-suite-private-pool-hunters-country-house — The private pool of the Master’s Suite at Hunter’s Country House ©Hunter’s Country House

gareth-patterson-measuring-elephant-footprint — Gareth Patterson indicates a footprint left by one of Knysna’s elephants ©David Winch

In addition to these elusive elephants, the Garden Route also boasts an abundance of birdlife. Nearly 300 species are to be found in a variety of habitats ranging from fynbos to forest to wetlands, of which 30 species are endemic to the Southern Cape. And to get up close and personal with our feathered friends, the next day I took to the skies for the ultimate avian adventure with Altitude Paragliding.

With many stunning jump sites throughout the Garden Route, it was tough to decide which hill to hurl myself from, but the weather dictated that the site in Sedgefield would be best. My instructor, Nigel Frith, was not only a keen competition pilot with 20 years of experience catching the wind in his parachute, but you couldn’t think of anyone better to be strapped to while dangling hundreds of feet above the ground. He not only has a 100% safety record, but the true testament to his talent was how he set a precedent for all the other operators and adrenalin junkies that day. While the wind refused to blow and we were stuck practising what is known as ‘para-waiting’, everyone else began to pack up shop after a few attempts. But Nigel persevered, and soon enough we took off over stunning surroundings and flabbergasted faces. With the skies to ourselves, we soared higher and higher, catching thermals and chasing one spectacular view after the next. The sky was the limit!

Taking to the skies with Altitude Paragliding ©David Winch

Once my pulse had returned to normal, it was time to head even further off the beaten track to relax with Mother Nature at Teniqua Treetops. This is an eco-friendly and somewhat eccentric holiday hideout set in acres of indigenous forest where there is no place for technology. And an evening spent braaing on the handcrafted deck, while soaking up more breathtaking views, was just what the doctor ordered. As was the bottle of Pinot Noir/Chardonnay and another good night’s rest.

After waking to the sound of birds and starting the final day of my Garden Route adventure with a walk amidst 1,000-year-old milkwood and towering yellowwood trees, I was ready to abseil in the secluded Kaaimans Gorge with the experienced and incredibly friendly guides at Eden Adventures. After receiving detailed instructions on how best to shimmy down a rockface attached to a rope, I started to question some of my life choices. Still, any fears were soon quelled by the hilarious grandfather-grandson duo who bounded down the rocks on their first attempt without breaking a sweat. These two daredevils are quite the pair, and they head back to Eden Adventures every year for different bonding experiences together. So whether you fancy boulder hopping, cliff jumping and swimming down narrow canyons, or hiring a canoe to explore the various waterways in the area, it’s clear that this adventure company in Wilderness will make you want to keep coming back for more.

The Garden Route is a place you will want to return to again and again

And this for me is what the Garden Route is all about. It is a place to which you will want to return again and again, for an incredible experience each time. No matter what your age or what you choose to do along this scenic stretch of South Africa, whether you’re looking for solitude or an adrenalin fix, this area of the world will be sure not to disappoint. The landscapes will leave you in awe, the restaurants and markets are worth the new waistline, and the activities will have you ticking things wildly off your African bucket list.

What to do in the Garden Route and how to do it

For the perfect excuse to keep pedalling or trail running for hours, head to the Garden Route Trail Park. Open from dawn until dusk, enjoy exploring the endless trails that weave through ancient forests at the foot of the Outeniqua Mountains and the Karatara River Gorge.

Start your weekend the country way at Wild Oats Community Farmers’ Market every Saturday morning. Come rain or shine, this award-winning market on the outskirts of the town of Sedgefield is positively brimming with the best locally-produced foods and freshly picked vegetables. It’s also a great place to gobble down a cooked breakfast!

Looking to tire the kids out so that you can enjoy your sundowners in peace? Then head to Acrobranch in Wilderness where Tarzan swings and ziplines await above the natural forest floor. I braved the 48 treetop obstacles on the High Flying Course while desperately trying to muster what’s left of my balance, and I had a great time being a kid again – albeit lacking somewhat in dexterity. If you’re on a tight schedule, there are shorter courses and even a Monkey Moves course for the tiny explorers in your troop.

Soak up the view from the deck at East Head Cafe ©David Winch — Head to Knysna to soak up the view of the Heads from the deck at East Head Café ©David Winch

For some of the most spectacular views this side of the equator, I was happy to have visited the extraordinary lookout point at Wilderness Heights, which towers over a forested mountain that resembles the shape of this beautiful continent – earning it the name, ‘Map of Africa’.

Once you’re done with the day’s snoring or soaring, head to watch the live music at Cocomo Restaurant in Wilderness. Local bands grace their stage every night of the week, so I got stuck into an O’Coco pizza and a Cocolada cocktail while the talented The Sequence Band performed. I had such a great night that I topped it off by buying a tree to support the 1000 Tree Project, so that the next time I go back to the Garden Route, I can look around knowing that I have helped to preserve its beauty in some small way.

Garden Route eateries

While away a happy couple of hours like I did by sipping cappuccinos and eating Saldanha Bay mussels steamed in Red Bridge beer at the quirky East Head Café. Thanks to its cheerful vibe and funky decor, I found this to be the perfect spot to enjoy a top-notch ‘special’ and beer while overlooking the blue lagoon and the sandstone cliffs of Knysna.

Kurland Restaurant has won countless awards over the years and is located in the 5-star Kurland Hotel, just a stone’s throw from Nature’s Valley. To get a feel for the vast 700-hectare private estate, I took a beautiful stroll with my aperitif to admire the newborn horses and award-winning roses. Then when the sun started to set, it was nothing short of perfect to return to the charm of the country house to finish my glass of Pecan Stream Sauvignon Blanc on the verandah before moving to the restaurant. Kickstarting my three-course meal with the grilled lemon butter langoustines with a rocket and parmesan salad was one of the best decisions that I have ever made.

“Fish to taste right, must swim three times… in water, butter and wine.” This is the fabulous motto of the even more fabulous The Fat Fish in Plettenberg and George. Head straight here for seafood when you’re hungry, and I’d personally recommend not living a day longer than necessary without trying the parmesan crumbed kingklip with smoked chilli butter.

Where to stay in the Garden Route

Few hotels can boast a walk-in wardrobe, a bathroom larger than most London apartments, and a private garden leading from a lounge suite, but I felt Hunter’s Country House to excel on every level right down to their omelettes. Starting the day with a buffet selection that had me kicking back the bedcovers, to rounding off the evening with treats and poems left on my turned down bedsheets, it was all the small details that warmed my heart the most.

I’m a hippy at heart, so I relished the chance to turn off all my gadgets and breathe in the fresh forest air alongside the butterflies at Teniqua Treetops. This secret hideaway is as green as its forest home. Thanks to its composting toilets, greywater recycling, horses as lawnmowers, solar geysers and low energy lighting, you can rest assured in your canvas tented bedroom that you will be contributing to sustainable tourism efforts in the country. But as wonderful as that may be, my favourite part of this enchanting experience was undoubtedly taking the time to indulge in their pièce de resistance – a bath overlooking the forest canopy!

If you’re always keen for a safari fix, head to Gondwana Game Reserve to see the free-roaming Big Five in malaria-free luxury. The 11,000-hectare reserve is just a 25-minute drive from Mossel Bay, or transfers can be provided for the 45-minute trip from George Airport.

Find that perfect ready-made South African safari here or ask us to build one just for you.

gondwana-game-reserve-lion — See the Big Five on the Garden Route at Gondwana Game Reserve ©Gondwana Game Reserve

louries-nest-treehouse-teniqua-treetops — Sleep in a treehouse at Teniqua Treetops ©Teniqua Treetops

dinner-hunters-country-house — Round off a fantastic day with a romantic dinner at Hunter’s Country House ©Hunter’s Country House

About the author

MEI CAPES is half-Chinese, born in England, and South African at heart. She studied French and German at the University of Warwick before spending a decade bumbling around Asia, Central America, Australia and Europe, then settling in Cape Town.

Already tired of pretending to be a grown-up, she takes every opportunity she can to explore her new home of South Africa, accompanied by her canine best friend and her fiancé, who will do almost anything – even face his fear of heights – to stop her whinging about being bored.

Peter Beard and The End of the Game

Being interesting is a bit like being beautiful. More often than not, it’s in the eye of the beholder. Personally, I find most of the washed-up shells I see on the beach more beautiful than a highly polished cut-diamond, but a whole lot of people are going to disagree with me on that. Similarly, the guy at the fuel station might be more interesting than Sigmund Freud – it just depends on your point of view. And then there is Peter Beard. Written by: Naturalist and author Duncan Butchart

That being said, some people are UNDENIABLY interesting, and, once in a while, you might be lucky enough to cross their path.

So it was that I once sat down for a drink with Peter Beard at a sidewalk café in Johannesburg. Born into a wealthy New York family, Beard first travelled to Kenya in the 1950s, then returned after his Yale graduation to work in Tsavo National Park, documenting the mass death of 35,000 elephants – and other wildlife – that formed the core of his 1965 book, The End of the Game. This provocative tome, overflowing with beauty and horror, captured the harsh reality of starvation, poaching and hunting in Kenya – a reality check when Joy Adamson’s Born Free was portraying Africa as a sort of Disneyland. More than anything, the enigmatic Beard wanted to portray the truth, like a photojournalist on a war front. The graphic and sometimes shocking images are more than many people can handle.

Personifying the ‘devil-may-care’ approach of those prosperous enough to be defiant of authority, Beard wanted to show the world how Africa’s game was disappearing. At the same time, he was documenting the end of an era – the end of colonial control. That, too, was a game – one of intrusion and greed.

My copy of the second edition of The End of the Game is among my most treasured books. Beard’s images of elephants, lions, vultures and gazelles are all in stark monochrome, adorned with layers of his own handwritten notes and quotes from Isak Dinesen (aka Karen Blixen, with whom he was friends), Roosevelt, Selous and others. Bizarrely, his multi-layered pictures are often smeared with blood to make his point. Shocking to many, these visceral images remind us of how powerful and wasteful humankind is.

Styling himself on Hemmingway, with a good dose of Denys Finch Hatton thrown in, Beard was part of New York’s Studio 54 crowd, and his unique images of Kenyan wildlife and beautiful women regularly adorned the pages of glossy magazines and calendars. Salvador Dali, Andy Warhol and Francis Bacon were among his friends, and he discovered the Somali supermodel Iman. Peter Beard is essentially a diarist and scrapbooker – the camera is just one of his tools, and his photographs are often only a canvas for a collage of found objects, newspaper clippings, woodcuts and other artwork. In some pictures, there are gorgeous women, usually naked, among the animals – these being models enticed out to the wilds of Kenya by the dashingly handsome Beard, who was just as at home among the Maasai and the thorn scrub as he was with Vogue fashion editors and the jet-setters of the world.

It is more than 50 years since The End of the Game was published, and I’m guessing that Peter Beard might just be surprised at how much wildlife still survives in Africa. The blood of rhinos continues to be spilt, and they are teetering on the brink; elephant poaching is out of control in some regions, but the pachyderms are too populous in others. Lions are certainly in big trouble; they have become extinct in several African countries since the book was published, and only seven countries now have populations of greater than 1,000.

However, the protected area network has increased significantly in some countries, and responsible ecotourism operators are providing sound economic reasons for local people to safeguard nature. There is hope. Perhaps Beard’s book woke up enough people in time.

Naturally, I asked Peter Beard to autograph my copy of his book when I met him way back in 1989. This was no ordinary flick of the wrist: he poured half a bottle of Indian ink into a soup bowl, placed his hand in the liquid, and then smeared it across the title page! After holding fast for a good fifteen minutes, he took out a nibbed pen and inscribed the book.

Note: Taschen is apparently releasing a 50th-anniversary edition of The End of the Game – as relevant now as it was back in ’65.

The horror of snares

“Earth provides enough to satisfy every man’s needs, but not every man’s greed.” ― Mahatma Gandhi. Snares may not be something people hear of or pay much attention to, yet these simple devices are probably amongst the highest killers of wildlife in Africa. Written by: Nick Tucker

A snare is nothing more than a rudimentary piece of wire shaped into a loop, anchored down and placed in an area of high animal activity to kill wildlife. Whilst they are mostly used to catch (and kill) bushmeat, often as a means of sustenance for rural communities, their impact is huge.

With a fast-increasing population and high poverty levels across Southern Africa, snaring is becoming an increasingly bigger threat to our wildlife populations than we seem to realise. It is not the newsworthy war on poaching sort of a story that the media focuses on or the gruesome killing and maiming of wildlife that the public seems to want to read about, yet snaring is arguably a bigger problem and threat.

If you speak to many rangers and anti-poaching units from Uganda to South Africa, they will tell you that a lot of their time and energy is focused on the removal of snares; snares which maim and kill tens of thousands, if not millions, of animals a year.

This issue was recently brought into the public eye with the photographs and stories of a young male lion in the Kruger that was spotted and reported to park authorities by several visitors to the park. This lion was fortunate enough to have had the snare removed and, according to the South African National Parks team, has a good chance of making a full recovery.

For many other animals, the ending is not as happy.

Most animals caught in snares will end up in the cooking pot, while as many as an estimated 90% will be left to rot in the bush, and many others will be severely wounded to the point that they are no longer able to feed or hunt, condemning them to a short life of pain and starvation.

If one is ever fortunate enough to visit the wild dog research station in Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe, just outside the main entrance of the world-renowned park by the same name, one will start to understand the problem better. At the main building, where the educational centre (which is phenomenal and well worth a visit) is based, you will quickly learn that this entire building was built out of wire, collected in anti-poaching operations. The size of the building and the amount of wire needed, I’m sure any quantity surveyor can back me on this, is terrifying. Especially when one considers that these are nothing more than cheap, simple killing mechanisms. The centre also illustrates the effects of snaring on wild dogs (painted wolves) and wild dog populations.

The extent of the snaring and the bushmeat problem only really hit home for me when visiting Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary in Swaziland. In the 10 years between 1960 and 1970, when conservationist Ted Reilly was working to build the first national park in this country, over 20,000 snares were collected, far exceeding the amount of game in the country at the time.

According to a 2014 report by Lion Aid, the snaring problem is a bigger problem than the poaching of rhinos and elephants across the continent, and it could be one of the single biggest factors contributing to species extinction. For example, 182,000 to 365,000 tons of wildlife are illegally harvested for bushmeat in Mozambique alone, with an estimated value of between US$366 million and US$730 million per annum.

When we think about poaching and when we think about wildlife and conservation, we need to think holistically; we need to realise that every species is key and every species plays an important role. When one starts to understand this and grasp how many animals are dying in or from snares across the continent, daily, weekly, monthly and annually, one will start to understand the real horror of snares.

My gorilla trekking safari with Africa Geographic

At the start of January 2016, our family of five went on a 3-day gorilla trek with Africa Geographic. What an adventure! Written by: Gale Ball

Obviously, the gorillas were the reason to visit and I still remember the moment when, after climbing for about an hour, the guide stopped me and said: “Sshhh… someone is watching you!”

I turned my head and froze.

There, almost touching me face-to-face, was the first gorilla, just sitting quietly behind a small bush. As we made eye contact, it took all my strength not to reach out and hug him! I couldn’t believe how close we got. For the first 10 minutes, we didn’t have any cameras out as we were all completely blown away by the experience.

However, there is so much more to Rwanda than we ever expected – picturesque views around every corner, a sad past that should be retold in order for history not to repeat itself, Dian Fossey’s legacy to help save endangered mountain gorillas, and big game safaris as well. It is yet another truly amazing country in the wonderful African continent.

There were just so many memorable moments on our trip! Obviously the gorilla trek was an unreal experience that I will never forget, but staying on Lake Kivu after meeting the gorillas was also a highlight, as was just seeing the continuous hills and valleys of beautiful Rwanda. Visiting the genocide memorial and church was also a must-see, although very sad.

Our guide for the trip was superb! He spoke English well, was very knowledgeable, and his service was excellent. He went out of his way to accommodate our request to visit the World Vision office to drop off a present, and he took different routes to and from the gorillas to accommodate our desire to see as much of Rwanda as possible.

Our gorilla trekking guide was also excellent; he was not only passionate about gorillas, but he was also very knowledgeable and helpful. He understood our age requirements and our wish to see a gorilla group closer to the base of the mountain, and he also organised our porters and chose those who could assist us with the climb.

After only one day of returning to Australia, we had already recommended Africa Geographic to friends!

Find out about our gorilla trekking safaris for your next African adventure – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

Kruger Addicts

We’re a couple of Australians from Perth who are mad about South Africa and feel that there is nothing quite like the experience of visiting Kruger National Park in particular. We’ve been at least 25 times and almost always stay for six weeks at a time, which makes our friends and family ask: “Why are you returning to the same place yet again?” They assume it must be boring and repetitive, but they don’t realise that it is very different in unpredictable ways every time and every day.

Kruger National Park is a vast area of about 19,485km², which is 360km long and about 65km wide, making it the size of a small country. And visiting Kruger can be an enriching adventure if you tackle it right! Sure, you can go on an all-inclusive safari where you will stay in luxury lodges and be driven around, but you could also do it yourself and indulge in the same serendipity for a lot less money. This serendipity comes from seeing what offers itself up to be seen – where what you see next is determined by what you stop to look at along the way.

sally-and-bob-redrocks-near-shingwedzi-ann-ansell — Cover image provided by Scott Ramsay, LoveWildAfrica.com, (right) Bob Humphries and Sally Robinson at Red Rocks near Shingwedzi Rest Camp ©Ann Ansell

leopard-crossing-road-kruger-sally-robinson — This leopard was in a tree on the right-hand side of the road before crossing just in front of us and climbing another large tree on the other side. I always think that one doesn’t find a leopard – they decide whether to show themselves to you, and it is always special when they do. ©Sally Robinson

Kruger offers us a fantastic opportunity to drive ourselves, stay in a small, thatched rondavel, and cook simple food. The trappings of Western life don’t belong here – television, the 24-hour news cycle, instant access to everything, constant phone calls and emails, and so on. We feel a deep, almost primaeval, satisfaction in finding our ‘own’ birds and wildlife. It feels good to connect with our pure instincts and be reminded of adrenalin’s real purpose – not for stress in the workplace, but for basic survival in the wild.

You do not know what will expose itself from one moment to the next. Each day, what you see or don’t see is determined by the stops you make along the way, a bit of skill and some luck. Ultimately, this combination determines whether you have the most amazing time with a leopard or miss out on seeing it!

We may have stayed in some upmarket places over our years of visiting Africa, but the place we always miss and yearn for is Kruger, where our souls get mended and restored without having to do anything to make it happen.

impala-kruger-national-park — Impalas are always beautiful and graceful. They are at the bottom of the food chain for many carnivores and are often referred to as the ‘McDonalds of the bush’ because of the ‘M’ shape on their rumps and because there’s one on every corner! ©Sally Robinson

Let’s take it back to the start

How did our obsession with Kruger begin? We first visited South Africa in 1994 as members of an Australian-South African scientific symposium on river classification and management. The meeting was to start in Kruger at the conference centre in Skukuza, so we decided to arrive a few days early. As soon as we had flown into the park and collected our rental minivan at Skukuza Airport, we headed off for a life-changing experience.

We drove out of the Skukuza Airport gate and agreed that the first one to find a big animal would buy the other dinner. Sally saw an impala after about 30 metres but protested that it wasn’t really that big! Then, almost immediately, she spotted a colossal giraffe browsing on thorns – now that is a big animal. She bought dinner.

We vividly remember stopping on the Sabie River causeway near the airport and being transfixed by the amazing birds we’d never seen before. One was black and white with a long tail and a lolly-pink beak, and the other was a pied kingfisher hovering before diving to catch a fish. We didn’t know where to look! As we arrived at Johannesburg airport very early that morning, we’d had a chance to load up on bird books and mammal guides at the airport bookshop, but we had no idea how to look up a bird we’d never seen before. With Bob driving, it fell to Sally to thumb through the book until she found the bird with the lolly-pink beak. It was a male pin-tailed whydah, and this method of thumbing through the bird guide became a great way to familiarize ourselves with a range of new birds quickly.

roller-kruger-sally-robinson — European rollers are prominent, often noisy birds that migrate from Europe and North Africa each year ©Sally Robinson

lion-drinking-kruger-sally-robinson — A male lion drinks from a puddle, causing a traffic jam on the bridge over the Vurhami River north of Crocodile Bridge on the H4-2 ©Sally Robinson

All about Kruger

Kruger has a subtropical climate and a wide range of habitats that change from west to east and south to north as the underlying geology, soils, and average rainfall varies. In general, the park is relatively flat. Still, the topographic monotony is broken by the Lebombo Mountains bordering Mozambique to the east, the Muntshe and Nkumbe hills, the hilly southwest area around Pretoriuskop and Berg-en-Dal, and the spectacular escarpment overlooking the Olifants River, which is one of our favourite views in the world.

Kruger is relatively well-vegetated and lacks the sweeping plains of East Africa. The southern half of the park supports thorny acacia and bush-willow savannah, and this zone has a greater variety of plants than the seemingly endless mopane scrubland that lies further to the north. Open grassland with large herds of wildlife is rare but can be seen around the park’s centre. The ‘bushy’ nature of Kruger means that it is often harder to find animals – some estimate that only 2% of the park is visible from its extensive network of tar and dirt roads. However, despite this, the fantastic array of birds is always visible, and you usually spot animals every 15 to 20 minutes unless the weather is poor.

The varied habitats support an extraordinary range of plants and animals – about 500 species of birds, more than 145 mammals, lots of frogs and reptiles, and innumerable insects. On our last trip, we spotted 45 mammal species and over 300 birds, and there are very few places in the world where this is possible!

two-hippos-kruger-sally-robinson — Two hippos mouthing as a way of checking who’s bigger ©Sally Robinson

banded-mongooses-sally-robinson — A pack of banded mongooses appeared out of nowhere – they are always fun to watch! ©Sally Robinson

saddle-billed-stork-sally-robinson — The saddle-billed stork is another favourite of ours. Without the yellow beak plate and wattles, it is very similar to the Australian black-necked stork, which used to be called the Jabiru. ©Sally Robinson

Where to stay

The 13 main rest camps are well located throughout the park to provide easy access to this spectacular diversity and enable drivers to travel from east to west across the ecozones or from north to south. The fact that the park has been mapped into ecozones makes it unique, and the ecozone guidebook is cheap. The main camps provide accommodation options of bungalows, permanent tents and DIY camping grounds. The available cottages, usually thatched, are comfortable, well-priced and adequately equipped (except none have a sharp knife). There are also five rustic bush camps and luxury game lodges on private concessions, so there is plenty of choice.

Find out about the Greater Kruger for your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

olifants-camp-kruger-sally-robinson — The front row of huts at Olifants Rest Camp is midway up the park and is one of our favourites. We’ve even seen lions eating their kill from here and spotted rhinos across the river. ©Sally Robinson

bob-humphries-sally-robinson-kruger — (left) Bob Humphries enjoys a glass of wine ©Sally Robinson, (right) Sally Robinson wraps up warm on a freezing cold day in Pretoriuskop following temperatures of 40ºC the previous day ©Bob Humphries

We mostly stay in the park for five to six weeks, beginning in the south at Crocodile Bridge or Berg-en-Dal and gradually working our way north to Shingwedzi Rest Camp or Punda Maria Rest Camp, staying three to five nights in each camp, before turning south again. This maximises the opportunity to discover the local specials, and avoids the problem of packing, moving and unpacking all of the time. Instead, we unpack once at the beginning and rely on using themed carriers, such as what we call a ‘bathroom bag’ and a ‘kitchen bag’. We then only pack up when we have to leave.

satara-camp-kruger-sally-robinson — Another of our favourite places to stay is Satara Camp. The area around Satara is usually good for larger herds of grazing animals and, therefore, lions too! Many of the huts are close to the fence, and kills can sometimes be seen along the fence line. ©Sally Robinson

huge-baobab-at-mopani-rest-camp — The massive baobab at Mopani Rest Camp is full of nests and like a city in its own right. The distribution of baobabs and elephants is closely linked as elephants disperse the seed pods, ©Sally Robinson

When to visit

Our favourite time to visit is in late October to early November onwards, as we hope to catch the beginning of the rains when the biology of the park just explodes. Within a few days of the start of the season, impala ewes have lambed, green grass appears, leopard tortoises drink from puddles on the road, migratory birds arrive, and the stunning weaver finches begin breeding. This is not the easiest time to see mammals, as it’s sweltering and there is water everywhere, which means that the game is less dependent on formal watering points. Still, the considerable level of activity and the diversity of sightings outweighs this. Whereas in February and March the grass is tall, so we find spotting game to be challenging.

Many people consider the dry winter months best for game viewing due to the bush being less dense and the tendency for wildlife to congregate at waterholes.

However, due to the local school holidays in June and July, and the fact that this is low-risk malaria season, this is also the busiest time at Kruger.

grooming-time-sally-robinson — It’s grooming time for this alpha male vervet monkey, while the small one in the foreground is eating flakes of salt from his fur ©Sally Robinson

bob-in-ratel-hide-sally-robinson — Bob is videoing from inside the Ratelpan Hide on the Timbavati River. This is a good spot from which to see the details of thick-billed weavers building their nests and elephants threatening to destroy them, and it also provides nice shade on a warm day! ©Sally Robinson

A bit of advice from the pros

We discovered early on that the best way to have a profoundly satisfying visit to Kruger is to be interested in everything. This is because finding things isn’t as easy as it seems in wildlife television programmes about Africa. Some days there is so much happening that we hardly know where to look, whereas, on slow days with little mammal or bird activity, we choose to focus on the plants and insects instead.

We have lost count of the number of times that we’ve stopped to observe a bird to be asked by someone what we are looking at before they drive off as soon as they realise it’s ‘only a bird’. But then a lion pops its head up from under the bush that the bird was in! Patient observation is the way to go, and taking the time to watch the natural behaviours, even of common animals, is rewarding and often surprising.

Kruger National Park has fantastic maps and guidebooks for sale, and South African National Parks has an excellent website. We mostly self-cater by shopping in one of the towns bordering the park at the beginning of our stay, and sometimes again half-way through our holiday. The park shops have a limited range of food and sometimes run out of things during busy times, so it’s essential to plan. We also pre-order good wine as the park shops don’t tend to stock South Africa’s best drops. The park restaurants are fine, but it’s part of our ritual to light the braai and wait for the coals to form as we sip gin and tonics, listening to the night sounds and reliving the day.

Please don’t speed – show respect and give animals the space to move

Safety around the wildlife is critical, so please don’t speed – show respect and give animals the space to move. Don’t reverse if a bull elephant blocks the road; this signals fear and submission, which keeps the elephant engaged. Instead, turn around and drive two to three kilometres away before turning off the engine and waiting 10 to 15 minutes for the bull to become bored and go back into the bush.

What to bring

– A pair of good binoculars are essential to see things up close – we suggest 8x32s as they are not too heavy.
– Hire a large, tall vehicle – we like the VW Kombi T5 the best.
– Be prepared for a range of hot, cool and wet weather.
– Carry insect repellent and a cortisone cream to treat bites.
– Take wildlife and plant guides, or download some of them as smartphone apps.
– Bring a camera with at least a 300mm lens to avoid getting disappointingly distant shots.
– Stock up on food and supplies outside of the park, and take a couple of cooler boxes as you may want access to food and drinks when you are not allowed out of your vehicle.

(Above) A young, very relaxed lion already bears scars from fights ©Sally Robinson, (Below) A map of Kruger National Parks ©SANParks

About the authors

Sally Robinson cut her teeth on zoos and Gerald Durrell’s books and loves seeing animals in their natural environment. She was Deputy Chairman of the Western Australian Environmental Protection Authority and works as an independent environmental consultant. She has won awards for her work in environmental protection and policy development. She is now a wildlife photographer.

Dr Robert (Bob) Humphries is a systems ecologist with a PhD in frog ecology. He has worked as an environmental consultant for the Western Australian EPA and the Australian water industry. At heart, he’s a naturalist, so his recent retirement is great – it means more time in the bush with his video camera.

An open letter to point out flaws in legalising the rhino horn trade

Dear Mr Hume, let’s talk about trade in rhino horn – by Alisha Kirk

My thoughts here, written in my own capacity, are neither intended criticism nor an inference of ill-intent. Your achievements confirm your commitment.

For clarity, I have no association with commercial wildlife farming/ranching. I’m not a veterinarian, a scientist, a government official, a lobbyist, affiliated with an NGO or a member of any APU unit. I’m also not involved in conservation unless, of course, you wish to include donations to various conservation bodies, which, I must admit, I have been guilty of in the past.

I am, however, a South African, and proudly so. Each sunrise still holds promise for a brighter future. My children understand this, too. To pay for this privilege, I trade globally. I know stock markets, trading floors and exchange regulations as well as anybody anywhere, and I sleep with one eye open, watchful for substantive change in commodities, equities, traded products, derivatives, currencies and debt. This is my world.

We agree that rhinoceros are being poached for their horns; composed mostly of keratin, the same protein in our hair and fingernails. In the past, western society believed, erroneously, as it turns out, that the demand for rhino horn was ostensibly driven by the sexual desires of Asian men. During the same period, Yemeni demand for dagger handles made of rhino horn, considered a symbolic rite of passage, also contributed to global demand. Until very recently, it was thought that Eastern medicinal requirements primarily drove demand for horn. Rhino horn is said to ‘cool the blood’ and break a fever. Notwithstanding, Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM ) does advocate an alternative. Modern demand theory challenges the notion that TCM demands are causal in the main. It’s now believed that rhino horn symbolises status for the elite. The ‘cure for cancer’ theory emanating out of Vietnam has also largely been discounted.

To clarify then, rhino horn is not an aphrodisiac. Yemeni demand for dagger handles has all but disappeared, and even though rhino horn has been used in TCM in the past, today’s practitioners prescribe alternatives. Most agree that rhino horn does not cure cancer. Modern theory holds that it is considered symbolic of status. What’s clear is that the demand for rhino horn is tangible.

Over the last century, 90% of the world’s rhinoceros were killed/harvested, mostly for their horn. As a result of this decline, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES), of which South Africa is a founding member, instituted a complete ban on all trade in rhinoceros products. For a time, pressure on the wild herd was seemingly controlled. In South Africa, the success was even better than most had hoped for. Consequently and simplistically for our purposes here, CITES downgraded the white rhinoceros to Appendix II, which allowed for limited trade. South Africans are, if nothing else, tenacious in business. Specific animals, considered surplus then, were offered to the private sector, and the local herd expanded.

Whilst South Africa enjoyed success, the rest of Africa’s rhinoceros population declined. Different theories account for this decline. Some say corruption, ease of access, leaky borders, less likelihood of getting caught etc. accounted for most. Nobody knows for sure. What’s clear, however, is that demand for rhino horn during that period was robust.

Back in South Africa, whilst rhinos were getting more costly to harvest illegally elsewhere because there were simply too few to harvest cost-effectively, our herd had expanded. Even though the harvest in the rest of Africa was patently illegal, the downgrading of our white rhino herd to Appendix II legitimised the harvest of trophy rhinoceros, subject to local permit approval, by sportsmen prepared to pay for the privilege. The illegal trade immediately focused on South Africa, which had inadvertently offered the illegal trade some legitimacy; most claim unintentionally. Pseudo-hunts for pseudo-sportsmen were facilitated locally, and rhinoceros were shot for horn to (illegally) supply what was becoming an insatiable Eastern demand. The South African authorities, belatedly appraised, instituted a ban on these pseudo-hunts, but the damage was done. The illegal trade had established local contact, formulated transfer channels and entrenched local infrastructure. Illegal harvest or poaching of the South African herd had begun in earnest.

In the current environment, demand for rhino horn is robust, and supply is imperfect, bottle-necked through illegal channels.

Economic theory tells us that markets exist mostly to facilitate supply and demand. In early times, we bartered one bundle of goods for another. The constituents or volume of the bundle determined the exchange. Today, we establish a price at the point of exchange, which the buyer pays in currency – usually the US dollar. Price, in turn, considers scarcity, real or perceived. In theory, the more scarce the bundle of goods, the higher the exchange price. The theory holds true in all markets, legal or otherwise, as long as demand is constant (or rising) i.e, not price sensitive.

On the ground, the supply of rhino horn is constrained and wholly dependent on illegal harvesting or poaching. It’s safe to assume that demand is constant at the current price, or prices would have fallen. The CITES ban has limited the supply of rhino horn to the end-user (currently illegal everywhere). The illegal trade facilitates the supply through a complex, convoluted maze of diverse and largely independent groups of harvesters in the field. Infrastructural corruption up the chain facilitates the transfer of product through the distribution channels to the end-user.

This is where you come in. You say to lift the CITES ban on rhinoceros trade. Legitimise the demand at the end-user. Eliminate the illegal supply chain. Establish a Central Selling Organisation mandated to control the supply of approved product through legal channels and to approved distributors only, who in turn supply the end-user markets. De-horn rhinoceros safely and without any negative effect on the donor-animal and collapse prices by volume of supply. Funds raised from the legal sales would contribute to current conservation in any one of a number of ways, either by bolstering fortress conservation (security) or for the purchase of land etc. Your point is well made but, dare I say it, flawed.

Allow me to clarify as best as I can. For ease of reference, the points will be annotated.

1. Nobody detracts from the success of your herd. I certainly don’t. Even so, as the owner of South Africa’s largest privately owned herd, you stand to benefit more than most from a resumption of trade. It’s a conflict of interest, which I can’t, in good conscience, ignore. Whilst the authorities deliberate, perhaps you would consider recusing yourself from the discussion and withdrawing from the media?

2. It’s true that rhino horn can be harvested as and when the animal regenerates its horn over the course of its life. It’s also true that the animal doesn’t have to be killed to do so. Notwithstanding, unless SANPARKS and/or Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife intend to dehorn their herd in the field, which you’ll agree is an unlikely occurrence, the only benefit to either would be the sale of surplus animals to private owners. To participate equitably, these rhinos would need to be sold at prices at, or in excess of, the current price of horn. A single animal yields approximately 4-6kg of horn? At current prices of US$30,000-US$50,000 per kilogram, that equates to approximately ZAR1,500,000 to ZAR2,500,000 per animal or circa 10 times the current price of the live animal.

3. On my point 2. above, you might be inclined to point out that an increase in supply should, by definition, drop the price of the product to more ‘reasonable’ levels. That’s true if demand stays constant, but it’s an assumption best left in the bin where it belongs. There is no irrefutable evidence that demand won’t increase, perhaps dramatically so, if ever trade was legalised. A possible/’probable’ shift outwards of the demand curve would leave prices unchanged at best or resume its upward spiral as new users enter the market.

4. The global regulatory environment is constantly in flux. It’s safe to expect some significant change within my own industry. The CSO concept as a stand-alone entity will soon be obsolete. A fairly common criticism of the CSO structure is its bias towards some form of complicity, either in open forum or disguised by internal policies. In truth, most operate as cartels, controlling both price and supply. Manipulation is simply endemic in such a structure. The same cartel-like complicity will manifest in the demand markets. Selling to ‘selected’ distributors has the same causal effect.

5. It does not follow that illegal syndicates will become redundant when trade is legalised. On the contrary, the scope to ‘launder’ illegally harvested product through official channels becomes entrenched, particularly in a corrupt environment or when large sums of money are involved. At the same time, your cost of harvesting horn or your production costs are significantly higher, I suspect, than the price of a bullet plus one or two thousand dollars for the trigger-men.

6. You have said that illegal trade will be eradicated in a legal trade environment. I don’t see why. The infrastructural environment under the auspices of legal trade would, in all likelihood, be no different from the current. Illegal networks are well established. Fortunately, some commendable work has been done by the authorities to break down these structures, but they still exist and will continue to exist until they don’t and certainly for reasons other than resumption in trade.

7. The most blatant flaws in your argument I’ve left to last, and they detract from the rest of your argument. Cattle farming has little to do with conservation. Farming lions for the ‘legal trade’ is, by anybody’s definition, not conservation. The same applies to the farming of chickens or pigs or sheep or, in this case, rhinoceros. Farming rhinoceros to shave their horns is as far removed from conservation as farming crocodiles for their belly skins. Yes, they’re not domesticated, but they’re hardly free-roaming ‘wild’ animals, either. Your herd is supplementary-fed and controlled in relatively small paddocks. Mauricedale is obviously a well-run farming operation.

8. Now, if you were to publicly distinguish your herd from the free-roaming herd and openly commoditise your rhinoceros, then your herd becomes a product, like eggs or bacon. Yes, it’s still an illegal commodity, but your exhortations in the public domain to reopen trade would be inscrutable. Intentions are made clearer, are based on sound business principles and are more readily understood in the public eye. However, masking intent by including conservation benefits and the project- integration of the local community in the same dialogue is misleading, although unintended perhaps.

9. In passing, I am confident that the authorities in control of the valuable stockpile of rhinoceros horn will remain steadfast in their application, thus avoiding any potential conflicts of interest. These same officials hold the elective right to lobby CITES to renew trade.

Also read – Opinion: Rhino horn trade = extinction in the wild

Lions, trophy hunting and the US government – the 27 facts you need to know

The US government has changed the rules relating to lion trophy imports. I have attempted to summarise their report of circa 64,000 words into 1,700 words, including 27 important facts about lions and trophy hunting that everyone should know.

The US government’s Fish and Wildlife Service (USFW) recently reclassified the subspecies of lions occurring in southern and eastern Africa to ‘Threatened’ (likely to become ‘Endangered’ in the foreseeable future) and the subspecies occurring in the rest of Africa and India to ‘Endangered’ (on the brink of extinction). At the same time, USFW changed rules relating to the import of sport-hunted trophies to address a perceived shortcoming in the sustainability of trophy hunting of wild lions.

In arriving at these conclusions, USFW considered a raft of information from scientific sources, which they presented in a lengthy and absorbing report. I would encourage you to set aside a few hours and read the USFW document as it contains many informative facts that I have excluded out of necessity or, at best, considerably shortened.

Here, then, is my summary:

1. Historical lion ranges included most African countries from Greece through Eastern Europe, the Middle East and India.

2. The lion has since been extirpated from all of Europe, the Middle East and North Africa and now occurs only in the Gir Forests of India and in some countries of sub-Saharan Africa.

3. In Africa, lions now occur in 8% of their historical range and are restricted mainly to protected areas and surrounding conservancies.

4. Lions are difficult to count – due to low densities, extensive ranges, cryptic colouration, and wary nocturnal habits. The earliest estimates of lion abundance in Africa were educated guesses made during the latter half of the 20th century, as follows:

i) Myers (1975) wrote: “Since 1950, their numbers may well have been cut in half, perhaps to as low as 200,000 in all or even less.”

ii) Ferreras and Cousins predicted lion abundance in Africa in 1980 to be 75,800.

iii) Riggio et al. (2013)—estimated lion population sizes ranging from 23,000 to 40,000

iv) Bauer et al. (2015) estimated the lion population in Africa to be between 18,841 and 31,394 (although many believe that 20,000 is closer to the mark).

v) In 2015, the Government of Gujarat completed its latest census, estimating 523 lions in India.

5. Sample populations were measured between 1993 and 2014, with varied results, but broadly suggest that unfenced populations declined rapidly and fenced populations did not.

6. Lion populations in all but five countries are estimated to have dropped by 60% between 1994 and 2014, while populations in five countries (India, Botswana, South Africa, Namibia and Zimbabwe) are estimated to have increased by an average of 12%. These numbers are rough estimates.

7. The largest lion population in Africa is found in Botswana’s Okavango Delta, which experienced a reduction over that period, and it is estimated that even this area will lose a further one-third of its population over the next 20 years.

8. In East Africa, the lion population of the Serengeti is the only one not to have decreased over that period.

9. Trophy hunting was included in the list of the four main threats that lions face – the others being habitat loss, loss of prey base and human-lion conflict. Other related factors include harmful effects due to small populations and climate change, inadequate regulatory mechanisms and weak management of protected areas.

10. Documented declines in lion populations of Africa are a result, in part, of mismanaged trophy hunting (numerous studies listed).

11. As of May 2014, approximately 18 African countries allowed the legal hunting of lions for trophies (although hunts only took place in nine of those). Of these, all but three experienced rapid population declines between 1994 and 2014.

12. Where trophy hunting occurs, quotas are set by the government. The scientific community has raised two primary concerns about the current lion quotas. These are that (1) existing quotas are set above sustainable levels, and (2) the data used for setting quotas is inconsistent and not scientifically based.

13. Of the nine countries allowing trophy hunting of lions in 2013, eight have quotas set higher than current recommendations.

14. South Africa’s lion hunting industry is predominantly captive-bred lions, with little impact on wild lion populations.

15. Proponents support trophy hunting as a conservation tool for the lion if it is practised in a sustainable and scientifically based manner because it can provide incentives for the conservation of large tracts of prime habitat and funding for park and reserve management, anti-poaching activities, and security activities.

16. As habitat loss has been identified as one of the primary threats to lion populations, it is notable that the total amount of land set aside for hunting throughout Africa exceeds the total area of the national parks and accounts for approximately half of the amount of viable habitat currently available to lions.

17. When the value of lions in areas outside national parks is diminished, those areas are likely to be converted to forms of land use less suitable for lions, such as agriculture, livestock pastures, or areas of resource extraction, making lions even more vulnerable to expanding human settlement

18. The report identified six key trophy hunting practices undermining the sustainable management of lions:

i) A lack of scientifically based quota that results in excessive harvests;

ii) A lack of enforcement of age restrictions, which leads to unsustainable harvests, increased rates of infanticide, and population declines;

iii) Hunting of female lions in Namibia, which decreases reproduction success, thereby reducing males available for trophy hunting;

iv) The use of fixed quotas (fee has to be paid regardless of whether a lion is killed), which encourages hunters to be unselective in their take of a trophy (i.e., they will kill younger, less desirable males);

v) A lack of minimum hunt lengths or minimum lengths that are too short to allow hunters the time needed to be more selective in their take of trophies;

vi) General problems associated with management of trophy hunting, including corruption, allocation of concessions, and lack of benefits to communities and recognition of their vital role in conservation.

19. As individuals who display certain characteristics (such as largest size) are more likely to be harvested by trophy hunters, this selective removal will bring about genetic change in future generations, as those individuals are no longer contributing to the gene pool.

20. Trophy hunting concession areas are leased to operators without regard for the operators’ track record in conservation.

21. The main problem with mismanaged trophy hunting stems from excessive harvests and impacts associated with the removal of males.

22. Male dispersal is important in determining the level of inbreeding in lion populations. The fewer males present to contribute genes to the next generation, the more inbred the population will be. Therefore, not only does dispersal impact inbreeding, but so does the loss of male lions due to excessive trophy hunting and infanticide.

23. Unless reforms are made to the current management of trophy hunting, excessive harvests will further contribute to declines in the species across its African range.

24. Certain aspects of the current lion bone trade suggest that the potential for the trade to impact wild lion populations may be high.

25. Evidence also indicates “well-established” links between South Africa’s legal lion bone trade and the Xaysavang Network. This international wildlife trafficking syndicate is also involved in the illicit rhino horn trade in South Africa.

26. Although the current lion bone trade is predominantly from captive-bred lions, evidence suggests the incentive to poach wild lions for the bone trade may exist.

27. Based on the effect of the tiger bone trade on tiger populations, if current conditions continue unchanged, there is considerable potential for extensive poaching of wild lions to meet demand.

Some of my thoughts:

The thoughts below do not represent an Africa Geographic house view or mirror the thoughts of any passionate team members working with me.

There is no doubt that this is a complex issue. But, as is often the case, it is possible to rise above the emotion and complexities to single out the elephant in the room.

When it comes to wild free-roaming lions, it has become clear that the theory of a well-managed and sustainable trophy hunting industry is just that – theory. In practice, except for a few well-managed areas, the trophy hunting of wild lions is speeding up the demise of wild populations across Africa. Please read the USFW report if you would like further evidence for this.

Surely, it’s pointless going on further about how trophy hunting could contribute to a lion conservation strategy. We know that free-roaming lion populations are crashing and that trophy hunting plays a role. In other words, trophy hunting of wild free-roaming lions has become part of the problem. Again, I’d highly recommend reading the USFW report if you have any doubts.

Perhaps it’s time to recognise that a total ban on trophy hunting of wild free-roaming lions should be implemented until these populations recover. Or even forever. I’d like to think that humans have evolved and no longer see the need for this relic from the distant past.

It’s clear from the past few years that the rules of engagement have changed and that trophy hunters and their families will increasingly be targeted for special treatment – often by aggressive activists, but increasingly by Joe Soap, who just doesn’t buy the “trophy hunting is conservation” story any more. It’s also clear that free-roaming wild lion populations are not what they used to be – and that the trophy hunting industry needs to start recognising that fact.

We all must recognise this need for change and adapt to modern-day dynamics and realities. Perhaps, mainly due to seismic events such as Cecil the Lion, we are seeing the beginning of a massive change in an industry that needs a good shakedown.

Keep the passion

Local community rallies together to save elephants that are stuck in the mud

In November 2015, a valiant attempt was made to rescue and resuscitate two elephants stuck in the mud at the Gubu mouth of the Ume River in Zimbabwe. Sadly, due to the intense heat, the elephants were too far gone to carry on, but this wasn’t for lack of everyone trying. Written by Nick Milne

What is incredibly humbling is how our little community just pulls out all the stops and bands together when we need to. Rae from the African Lion & Environmental Research Trust, Levi from Rhino Safari Camp, all staff from Bumi Hills Safari Lodge and Spa and Bumi Hills Anti Poaching Unit (BHAPU), Matusadona National Parks rangers, Pierre and Ian from the Ume Croc Farm, various houseboat guests including Lauren Luitingh and Taryn Luitingh, and all the local subsistence fishermen literally risked life and limb tying ropes onto the flailing legs and trunks of the two elephants. They pulled and pushed and dug through the mud for hours on what would have probably been the hottest two days of the year so far in Zimbabwe.

You win some, you lose some, and it is with a very heavy heart that I have to say that we lost this battle. There comes a point in every rescue operation where all you do is delay the inevitable and prolong the suffering. These two elephants were sadly too far gone, so the decision was made to put them down.

We tried everything we could, from feeding them oranges to giving them enemas to try to give them enough energy to get back up on their feet. We were so close so many times, but they were just too dehydrated and exhausted to continue their fight for survival.

Nevertheless, on behalf of everyone who pulled out all the stops to try to save these two elephants, we wish to thank Lisa from the Aware Trust Zimbabwe, Debbie and Andries from KAWFT for their advice and support, and everyone else involved for doing everything they could to help.

Exploring Etosha

I enter a barren land where white clay meets an ice-blue sky. The ‘Great White Place’ gives new meaning to ‘bone dry’. At the end of a ruthless dry spell, the land is crying out for the taste of rain, but there are no signs of a storm brewing. Africa is renowned for its big skies, and never more so than at Etosha.

On the ground, primal energy rules. The awkward stoop of thirsty, drinking giraffes makes them easy prey for Etosha’s lions, and bones lie scattered around the waterhole. Hyenas, jackals and vultures are queuing up for their turn at the buffet, that is, if the lions leave anything behind.

Etosha Lions are in for a feast ©Janine Avery — Lions are in for a feast ©Janine Avery

Etosha - Namibia's national animal holds fort ©Janine Avery — Namibia’s national animal holds fort ©Janine Avery

A young kudu bleats, stuck up to its shoulders in the middle of the shrinking waterhole. A hyena looks on, sensing easy prey, while the kudu’s father stands watch with his snaking horns, and a skinny warthog tentatively drinks nearby. The young kudu makes it out safely, the hyena skulks away, and I, too, move on past the Etosha Pan, which is so large that it can be seen from outer space.

There is no car in sight, and I could be forgiven for thinking that I own the land, until a stubborn rhino lets me know that he does. I understand my place and pay my respects to Namibia’s national animal as an oryx ambles past, followed by elephants of varying shades, from ivory white to ebony black – depending on which waterhole they decided to bathe in.

Members of a mongoose family go about their business, while a lazy few lie flat in the shade of a cool termite mound, and a hyena drags around a zebra skin, her rotund belly scraping the ground.

A wildlife haven that represents raw Africa

This is Etosha National Park – a unique reserve in Namibia home to a 100-million-year-old salt pan and a turbulent history, remembered on the monuments throughout the park’s rest camps. It is a photographer’s dream come true, a birder’s delight, a wildlife haven and a place that, for me, represents raw Africa.

Etosha mayhem-at-the-waterhole-anja-denker — It all kicks off at the waterhole ©Anja Denker

What to see and how to see it

The ‘white elephants’ that garner their colour from the clay of the salt pan, which acts as a form of sunscreen and which they liberally smear over their bodies to cool down, should be at the top of anyone’s Etosha bucket list. The best place to catch a glimpse of one of these famous ‘ghosts’ is at Nebrownii waterhole, where that iconic Etosha scene will unfold before your eyes with ostriches, springbok, zebra, gemsbok, giraffe, wildebeest and zebra all congregating for their share of the life-giving waters.

If you are visiting during the dry season, it is best to hunker down at one of the many waterholes – including natural springs and man-made boreholes – and wait to see what comes for a visit. The stretch covering the Sueda, Salvadora and Rietfontein waterholes provides a wealth of sightings, and we were lucky to see two lionesses with their cubs on this stretch of road.

A lioness passes with her cubs in tow ©Janine Avery

A 'white elephant' keeps the ostriches company at an Etosha waterhole ©Janine Avery — A ‘white elephant’ keeps the ostriches company at the waterhole ©Janine Avery

Chudob was another winning choice for our trip, as it was situated within easy reach of the Von Lindequist Gate and our accommodation at Mokuti Etosha Lodge, located just outside the national park. Here, we could watch the wildlife come and go as the sun set in the background, while still having enough time to make it to the gate before closing.

The man-made Halali waterhole is situated at Halali Rest Camp and is a great place to sit with a sundowner or snack and a pair of binoculars. But be careful not to leave your food unattended, as a pair of honey badgers are known to go after anything they can!
If you’re a birder, you’ll find Fisher’s Pan an absolute delight during the rainy season when the pan welcomes thousands of flamingoes and other wetland birds and migratory species.

The plains between Halali and Okaukuejo camps are a great place to spot smaller creatures such as the bat-eared fox. At the same time, the western side of Etosha has recently opened to the public and provides a different type of landscape thanks to its red soil and undulating terrain. On this side of the park, you will find Hartmann’s mountain zebra, black rhino and black-faced impala.

Before visiting the park, it is essential to note the fees that are based on your nationality and vehicle. These fees are paid at the camps within the park, and proof of payment needs to be presented when exiting.

It is also important to respect the opening and closing times of the park, which are based on sunrise and sunset and so change with the seasons.

The recently opened western side of the park ©Anja Denker — Wildlife in the recently opened western side of the park ©Anja Denker

When to go

Winter: May to October is the dry season, providing the most action in Etosha as the wildlife congregates around the waterholes. This is the busiest season for visitors due to the excellent visibility for sightings and the mild weather. I visited the park in November, which is the end of the dry season in the region, but the park still had not seen any rain. While waterholes were low, the game looked healthy. However, there was little game to be seen between these sources.

Summer: January and February are the height of the rainy season. In these months, Etosha’s usually dry salt pan is transformed into an exquisite birder’s haven with thousands of flamingoes and migratory birds. The European bee-eater is a particular delight! However, it is harder to guarantee game sightings during this quieter period, as the animals do not need to visit the waterholes. Consequently, more driving is necessary, and you can expect temperatures during the day to reach up to 40°C.

Etosha - A damara dik-dik ©Anja Denker — A Damara dik-dik ©Anja Denker

Etosha - Life at the life-giving Chudop waterhole ©Anja Denker — Life at the life-giving Chudop waterhole ©Anja Denker

I broke the journey into two parts by stopping at Okonjima, home of the AfriCat Foundation, on the way up. At Okonjima, various accommodation options are available, from camping to your private bush villa. Money raised from their lodgings goes to supporting the work of AfriCat, which focuses on the conservation of Namibia’s large carnivores, conservation education and the mitigation of human-wildlife conflict in Namibia. AfriCat also has another base on Etosha’s south-western border, aiming to mitigate conflict between local farmers and lions. Okonjima is currently home to leopards, lions, hyenas and wild dogs – many of which have been rescued, while some are natural residents of the reserve. These carnivores, which may otherwise have been confined to a life in captivity, can become self-sustaining in Okonjima’s protected area. And I managed to tick three of Namibia’s big cats off my list before I even reached Etosha. This was great as it meant that I wasn’t so focused on predator sightings during my time in the national park. The shorter drive also meant that I had time to enter the park through Anderson Gate and spend the rest of the day driving to exit at Von Lindequist Gate near Namutoni, where Mokuti Etosha Lodge was awaiting my arrival.

Find your ready-made Etosha safari, or ask us to build one just for you.

A collared cheetah at Okonjima ©Anja Denker — A collared cheetah roams its home at Okonjima ©Anja Denker

Poison destroys another Kenyan lion pride

The dead flies are the first sign, their blue bodies reflecting the sun in glittering piles. This was followed by that sinking feeling upon discovering a cow carcass eaten by more than just flies. Another example of the use of poison in human-wildlife conflict.

Poison — Dead insects, particularly flies, are always the first sign of a livestock carcass poisoned to kill returning predators.

On the morning of 9th December, a community informer came to Big Life Foundation, an NGO operating in the greater Amboseli ecosystem of Kenya and Tanzania, with worrying information. Multiple livestock had been killed the night before, and lions were responsible for some of the deaths.

The call came from an area to the north of the core Amboseli ecosystem, a human-dominated place where there are no livelihood benefits associated with wildlife, and communities deal only with the costs. Knowing the threats this set of circumstances posed, the informer was immediately sent to investigate further.

He visited each livestock carcass, and the owners all appeared calm. Some had slaughtered what remained of their animals, and no one was talking about retaliation. But he missed one cow carcass.

The next day, there were rumours of poison, and staff from Big Life, Lion Guardians, and the Kenya Wildlife Service scrambled to get back to the scene. The rangers discovered the remains of a poisoned cow carcass, with lion tracks next to it. It wasn’t long before three dead lions were found, including two young cubs.

Tracks indicated that at least one (thought to be the pride male) survived, but four other lions remain unaccounted for in the pride.

The only adult female in the pride was also confirmed dead (her carcass is being burnt here), a blow to the future of the pride even if the rest did survive. — The only adult female in the pride was also confirmed dead (her carcass is being burnt here), which is a blow to the future of the pride even if the rest did survive.

The Amboseli lion population has been increasing for the past decade, which serves as a beacon of hope at a time when an IUCN assessment estimates a 59% drop in sample populations across East Africa over the last 20 years. This is a testament to the success of a Big Life livestock compensation programme, and the complementary work of groups such as the Lion Guardians.

But these interventions cannot reach everywhere. Sadly, this tragedy, which comes less than a week after a separate poisoning incident killed three lions in the Maasai Mara, was almost inevitable. Lions (or any predators, for that matter) that stray beyond zones of community tolerance are in immediate danger. Many of the communities in the areas bordering core wildlife habitat can ill afford the economic losses incurred by predators, particularly when any benefits from the presence of wildlife do not balance these.

There are some places in Africa where wild animals have a chance and others where the balance has tipped too far away from natural systems. This is not a situation that needs anger to cloud understanding. These are complex issues, involving the welfare of people and wild animals. Community engagement is the place to start, but unless predator conservation interventions can be scaled up, the reality is that it will always be difficult to prevent the ‘leakage’ effect when species that cause economic damage leave protected havens.

Famous Marsh lions poisoned in Maasai Mara

Lions from the Marsh Pride, made famous by the Big Cat Diary series, have been poisoned in the Maasai Mara, with at least two lions dead as a result.

According to a post on the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust (DSWT) Facebook page, “On Sunday morning at 8 am Patrick Reynolds of Governors Camp in the Maasai Mara received a call that some of the lions from the famous Marsh Pride were acting strangely, collapsing and suffering from spasms. Patrick immediately called the DSWT-funded Mara Mobile Veterinary Unit, headed by Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) Veterinary officer Dr Limo, who was on the scene by 11.30 a.m.

Dr Limo confirmed that up to five lions had suffered from ingesting a poison of some description – including a two-year-old sub-adult male whose mother is Siena, the lioness we have successfully treated on several occasions for severe injuries. Siena remains unaccounted for, while the two-year-old son has responded well to treatment and is looking brighter, having been guarded all night to keep him safe from hyenas as he recuperated.

Dr Limo began treating the lions yesterday, and today the DSWT is flying in emergency supplies of Atropine Sulphate, an additional helpful antidote for poisoning. Tragically, one older lioness from the Marsh Pride has died due to this poisoning incident, and the Mara Veterinary Team is back on site today, treating some more lions from the pride.

KWS reported that three people have been arrested concerning the poisoning of the lions. With lions being endangered, the three, if found guilty, could face fines of USD200,000 or life imprisonment.”

Hyenas, vultures and jackals have already been seen preying on the carcasses of the dead lions, and conservationists expect the death tally to rise.

Collins Omondi, the senior warden at Narok Kenya Wildlife Service, said the lions had been poisoned after they killed some cows grazing in the reserve. The herders have been arrested after they took the cows, laced them with poison and gave them to the pride. Omondi said the herders should have filed for compensation and the KWS veterinary department is conducting tests to identify the poison used.

It is rumoured that these lions had been killing livestock as the Maasai bomas are right on the edge of the reserve, with the cattle being taken into the reserve every night when the likelihood of conflict with predators such as lions and hyenas is at its greatest.

A post by Big Cat Dairy’s Jonathan and Angela Scott on their website said, “The Marsh Pride have always been vulnerable due to their being a boundary pride – their territory spreads beyond the reserve boundary. This is particularly apparent in the wet season when Musiara Marsh (and Bila Shaka at times) becomes waterlogged, and the lions move to higher ground to the north and east. Each year, we lose lions to poisoning or spearing by pastoralists – that was always part of life for the lions. But in the last few years, the situation has escalated beyond all reason, with the Marsh Pride becoming increasingly fragmented by the influx of cattle and herdsmen.”

Saving the cheetah: a need for speed

The cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus) is famous for its speed, reaching over 100 kilometres per hour in short bursts. All parts of its body have evolved for precision and agility, from the small aerodynamic head, lean body and long legs to a tail that works like a boat’s rudder.

People often confuse cheetahs with leopards or jaguars, but several points of physical difference make it easy to distinguish them. In addition to having a light-boned, elongated frame, the cheetah’s undercoat is marked with solid black spots instead of rosettes. Cheetahs also possess distinctive ‘tear marks’ that extend from the corners of their eyes along their nose to their jaw. The biological purpose of these marks is to cut the sun’s glare so that they can see more clearly across long distances.

wim-van-den-heever-cheetah — The tears of a cheetah ©Wim van den Heever

cheetah-spots-andrew-harrington-cheetah-conservation-fund — Connect the spots ©Andrew Harrington, Cheetah Conservation Fund

History of the cheetah

The cheetah was once one of the most widely distributed land animals. Phylogenetic research has shown that the cheetah evolved from a common ancestor with the puma and jaguarundi in the Americas during the Miocene era, which was five to eight million years ago. Over time, the cheetah migrated, crossing land bridges from North America into China, through India and Europe, before finally settling in Africa as recently as 20,000 years ago.

Genetic research indicates that today’s cheetahs are descendants of but a few animals that survived 12,000 years ago following the last glacial event in the Pleistocene era. The population then experienced what is referred to as a ‘population bottleneck’, a sharp reduction in size. As a result, cheetahs lack genetic diversity, making them more susceptible to certain feline diseases.

The earliest record of human interaction with cheetahs dates back to the Sumerians in 3,000 BC. In Egyptian history, it was believed that the cheetah would swiftly carry away the Pharaoh’s spirit to the afterlife, and symbols of cheetahs have been found on many statues and paintings in tombs. They have also been long revered as hunting companions for royals.

The thrill of the chase ©Wim van den Heever

Nothing can outrun the cheetah ©Suzi Esterhas, Cheetah Conservation Fund

Modern decline

At the beginning of the 20th century, approximately 100,000 cheetahs were found in at least 44 African countries. Today, fewer than 10,000 cheetahs are left on the continent, and they are found in small, fragmented areas spread across only 23 countries, at the most. This represents a decline of 90 percent in the last 100 years.

Although seven subspecies were originally proposed based on morphological criteria, five are currently recognised. The Southern African cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus jubatus) is the largest remaining population and was originally found throughout Southern Africa, but now is mostly limited to Namibia, Botswana and South Africa. The East African cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus raineyii) has the second-largest wild population in Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda and Somalia. The Central African or Sudan cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus soemmeringii) is found in Sudan, Cameroon, Niger, Nigeria, Chad, Ethiopia and the Central African Republic. Approximately 250 North African or Saharan cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus heck) are now found mainly in the central western region of the Saharan desert and the Saheland. And less than 100 Asiatic cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus venaticus) remain in Iran despite being previously spread across Asia.

cheetah-conservation-fund-range-map — Cheetah range map ©Cheetah Conservation Fund

The king cheetah was once thought to be a separate subspecies (acinonyx rex), but is actually a mutation due to the same recessive gene responsible for the two types of coats in domestic tabby cats – the striped mackerel tabby and the swirl-patterned classic tabby. King cheetahs are easily recognisable thanks to their coats, which have large, solid spots, some of which have merged to form dark stripes down the middle of their backs. King cheetahs also have somewhat of a larger build than the average-sized cheetah. Rarely seen in the wild, they are more frequently found in captivity, where they are intentionally bred.

Threats to survival

For many African wildlife species, living within a protected national park or private game reserve, such as the Maasai Mara Game Reserve in Kenya, the Serengeti National Park in Tanzania, or the Kruger National Park in South Africa, is the difference between life and death. However, for species like the cheetah, living in protected areas results in greater competition with other larger and more aggressive predators that steal their kills and kill their cubs. Consequently, 90 percent of all cheetahs live outside of protected parks and reserves, making them more vulnerable to human conflict.

Most people who live alongside cheetahs are rural communal farmers whose livelihoods depend on the health and well-being of their livestock. Most are poor and cannot afford to lose even a small fraction of their animals to predators. These farmers have traditionally viewed cheetahs as vermin, a nuisance and a threat. Some governments sanction herd protection programmes allowing cheetahs on farmlands to be trapped, removed, or killed on sight. Popular during the 1970s and 1980s, these programmes led to a rapid, widespread reduction in the number of wild cheetahs. Still, fortunately, since then, the introduction of non-lethal predator control techniques has stemmed the tide.

cheetah-maasai-mara-neal-cooper-photography — Two become one ©Neal Cooper Photography

cristian-boix-malaika-leaping-in-full-chase — A cheetah takes things in her stride ©Christian Boix

Bush encroachment is a form of desertification caused by the overgrazing of arid landscapes, which results in the prolific growth of native plant species commonly known as thornbush. On traditionally open savannas where cheetahs hunt, bush encroachment alters the landscape and limits the cheetah’s success in hunting, creating an imbalance in the mix of wildlife.

Bush encroachment is devastating for cheetahs as their habitat is now nearly impenetrable. As the cheetah sprints through thornbush, its eyes are scratched, often resulting in permanent damage. The cheetah relies on its eyesight to hunt and detect threats, but with impaired eyesight, cheetahs are more likely to consider livestock prey, becoming a problem animal for farmers, and thus increasing conflict.

Another issue impacting the cheetah is tourism. Everyone who travels to Africa and goes on safari wants to see a cheetah. While tourism helps to bring the species’ international attention and instils economic value in the species’ survival, crowds of multiple vehicles surrounding cheetahs are dangerous for the animal. The disruption of a mating event or a hunt, or getting too close to a mother with offspring, can have a lasting and devastating effect.

cheetah-wim-van-den-heever — Surveying its shrinking kingdom ©Wim van den Heever

Exotic pet trade

Most disconcerting of all, an estimated 300 cheetah cubs are being smuggled out of the continent each year, mostly to the Gulf States – to supply the illegal pet trade. Cheetahs as exotic pets are considered status symbols and live inside private homes, sleeping on furniture or tile floors that bear little resemblance to their natural habitat. Photos on social media depict cheetahs with gem-studded collars riding in speedboats, sitting in luxury vehicles and posing at social functions.

Keeping a wild cheetah as an exotic pet undermines the species. Five out of six poached cubs are believed to die before reaching their final destination, while mother cheetahs are often killed defending their cubs. Cheetah cubs that survive long enough to be sold most likely do not make it beyond two years of age.

Those that do, often become sick or disabled and die from improper care.

cheetah-cub-playing-with-mum-cristian-boix — A cheetah cub plays with its mum and sibling ©Christian Boix

A cheetah cub stares into its future ©Christian Boix

Strategies for survival

Although people are the root of most problems facing the cheetah, they are also the solution. Over the past 12 years, conservation professionals have come together to devise strategies to help the cheetah win its race for survival.

In 1994, the Cheetah Conservation Fund (CCF), a research education and conservation institution based in Namibia, initiated a programme to provide rural farmers with livestock guarding dogs as a non-lethal means for predator control. Two rare, large breeds were chosen, the Kangal and the Anatolian shepherd, because of their loud bark, protective nature and successful history guarding livestock in Turkey – a country with similar climate and terrain.

CCF livestock guarding dogs are credited with saving the lives of hundreds of cheetahs each year. Farmers with a CCF dog report a drop in stock losses due to predation anywhere from 80 to 100 percent, meaning they no longer feel as much pressure to trap or shoot cheetahs. CCF has placed more than 650 of these specially trained dogs and helped launch sister programmes in Botswana, South Africa and Tanzania.

anatolian-shepherd-puppies-eli-walker-cheetah-conservation-fund — Anatolian shepherd dogs to the rescue ©Eli Walker, Cheetah Conservation Fund

Polly and Rohinni are best of buddies at the fund in Namibia ©Cheetah Conservation Fund

In 2001, CCF also launched a project to combat bush encroachment by transforming selectively harvested, excess thornbush into a biomass fuel product. Today, the manufacture of BUSHBLOK™, a clean-burning, low-emission fuel log, helps restore thousands of acres of cheetah habitat each year. In 2012, with support from the Clinton Global Initiative, CCF expanded its BUSHBLOK™ production and is leading the way for an emerging biomass industry in Africa.

Nowadays, conservation priorities in each country where the cheetah is found are under evaluation. According to Dr Laurie Marker, founder and executive director of CCF, ensuring a future for cheetahs requires enhancing the livelihoods of human communities that live alongside them. Her creative approach includes developing alternative income sources in eco-tourism and craft making, providing economic incentives for predator-friendly agricultural products, and training workers to make value-added products derived from livestock, like goat cheese or soap.

CCF recently initiated an eco-label programme to motivate farmers to peacefully coexist with cheetahs. Under CCF’s model, farmers who agree to practise predator-friendly livestock management become certified with a Cheetah Country Beef eco-label and receive premium prices for their meat. “This concept works very well for the tuna industry, which markets dolphin-friendly products with great success,” said Dr. Marker. “We think we can adapt this approach with beef producers to benefit the cheetah in Africa”.

To celebrate the 5th annual International Cheetah Day this 4 December, check out our gallery, which showcases a selection of cheetah images from some of the continent’s most prestigious photographers.

Learn more about the cheetah here

A cheetah on an anthill ©Andrew Harrington, Cheetah Conservation Fund

About the author

Dr Laurie Marker is one of the world’s leading experts on cheetahs. The founder and executive director of Cheetah Conservation Fund (CCF), an award-winning research, education and conservation institution dedicated to ensuring the long-term survival of the cheetah, Dr. Marker has worked with the species in Africa since 1974. In 1990, Dr. Marker established the not-for-profit fund and relocated from the U.S. to Namibia to dedicate her career to saving the wild cheetah. Now the longest-running cheetah conservation organisation, CCF has helped stabilise the population in Southern Africa and is considered a model for large predator conservation.

Climbing Nyiragongo – an active volcano in the DRC

Why on Earth would you want to climb an active volcano in the Democratic Republic of Congo? This is a question that many people asked me when I told them about the smouldering adventure that Africa Geographic crafted for me, which entailed climbing Mount Nyiragongo in Virunga National Park plus meeting one of Africa’s greatest ape species.

My reply was simple: “It is something that not many people get to do – I will finally come face-to-face with mountain gorillas and the largest lava lake in the world, which is actually easier and safer to see nowadays than ever before.”

The area where I was headed lies north of Lake Kivu, the Rwandan and Uganda border confluence that hugs the DRC. Mount Nyiragongo is an active stratovolcano, with an elevation of 3,470m, which looms over the town of Goma and Lake Kivu. It is a mere 30-minute drive from Goma International Airport and an hour’s drive from Mikeno Lodge, where you can meet the valiant staff of Virunga National Park and learn about the many projects that these determined custodians are undertaking to protect the Virunga Mountains and their wildlife.

I entered DRC via Gisenyi after spending a few days with a family group of mountain gorillas in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park. Albeit a bit time-consuming, crossing into the DRC was surprisingly hassle-free, and the Africa Geographic team handled everything very efficiently.

Once through border control, we were met by a charming guide who drove us through Goma’s streets to the Nyiragongo hike’s beginning. The drive to the Kibati Patrol Post at the base of Mt Nyiragongo was quite an eye-opening experience. The pot-holed dirt roads lined with dilapidated buildings were a stark reminder of the devastating effect of years of unrest. The beautiful, green slopes of the Virunga Mountains were a stark contrast as they climbed valiantly towards the heavens and clouds. Staring at so much natural beauty, I could not help but feel the urgency to remove the burden of war to allow the wildlife, people and the region to prosper from eco-tourism.

As we prepared to start our Nyiragongo climb, standing in a clearing of lush tropical rainforest and listening to the ranger’s instructions for the trail, I had the distinct feeling that everyone here was playing an important role in this park’s future.

The magnitude of the challenge ahead also suddenly dawned on me.

Not only was I about to climb an active volcano that last erupted in 2002, but I would need to ascend 1,500m to the crater’s rim to reach its peak at 3,470m. Luckily, my nerves were quickly soothed by a concise and very enthusiastic prep talk by the Virunga National Park head ranger.

It takes four to six hours to reach the Nyiragongo summit – depending on the group’s fitness level, and this is broken up into five main parts with well-located resting spots at the end of each section. On some occasions, members of our group moved at their own speed and then regrouped, but overall, our progress was determined by the pace of our slowest members. This gave everyone an ample chance to rest and catch their breath.

The first section is mostly flat and wet, but incredibly stunning. The thick rainforest engulfs you in a world that rivals JRR Tolkien’s imagination. This is the longest section and a good opportunity to loosen the cobwebs from your knee joints. It was also here that I was most grateful for my choice to accept the help of a porter, who took my main bag and enabled me to enjoy this rainforest and acclimatise to the humidity and heat.

Eventually, the forest thinned, and we slowly moved onto a trail naturally formed from the lava that flowed in 2002. At first, I found it quite tough to maintain my footing on the loose rocks, but the ground soon became solid and a little easier to negotiate, even though it also became steeper. The rangers slowed down their pace in a few areas and announced that a family of chimpanzees could be found in the area. The mere idea that I could glimpse unhabituated chimps made my heart swell. “They are here,” I thought. Sadly, we never saw them, but a few sightings of blue monkeys were most welcome.

As the trail got steeper and reached higher altitudes, people started to feel the challenge, and some struggled with the third and fourth sections of the hike. However, the rangers had developed a feel for the group’s fitness and stopped frequently enough for people to catch their breath. They also cunningly helped to distract our minds by pointing out the view and forcing us to absorb the amazing beauty of the valleys, lakes, mountains and forests below.

As we began to climb into the clouds, the temperature dropped dramatically. But the open terrain of dark charcoal solidified volcanic rock, and the view of the mist below our feet took our breath away. I could see our accommodation ahead and knew I was close to viewing a lava lake for the first time. I began to feel the satisfaction of what I was about to achieve boil up inside of me and was far too excited to rest. I was on a volcano and couldn’t wait to get to the top and see lava for the first time.

Nearing the summit, it became evident that the next 12 hours would be pretty cold. I would strongly suggest that anyone heading up this way be well prepared and bring a warm set of clothes to make your overnight stay on Nyiragongo more comfortable. The guides were very good, and they quickly had a fire going and soon served us all a very welcoming hot beverage.

A collection of small A-frame huts are perched on the slopes of the Nyiragongo crater, only a two-minute walk away from its rim. The sound of churning lava and exploding gases kept our excitement levels and expectations high. The huts are basic, and there’s only enough space for two people to lie down. Still, when you consider the challenges that the Virunga National Park rangers and staff have had to overcome to build them and protect them from the ravaging onslaught of climatic conditions, they’re more than adequate. Especially when a chilly swirl of wind whistles outside.

My first view of the lava lake will forever be infused into my memory. It did not disappoint. There I stood at 3,470m, on the edge of the volcanic crater, looking down at the largest lava lake in the world. But the sound of the churning lava and exploding gases first impressed me, as the noises echoed so loudly up the crater that they seemed to explode in my ears. Although it was a 250m descent to the lava lake, the sounds were loud enough to make me feel as if I were standing right next to the churning lava.

However, it wasn’t long before the clouds drifted over and concealed the view of the lava lake. My guide, Joseph, offered comfort by telling me that the best time to view the lake would be later at night. So I took the opportunity to put on some dry, warm clothes and shelter from the chilly wind in my small hut.

Being a keen photographer, I was itching to capture photographs of the crater, so after a lovely hot meal of pasta and potatoes, Joseph and I made our way to the crater’s edge to wait for the view to clear. And when it did, the syrupy red and orange lava was a sight to behold.

There are two viewing points that the rangers and guides ask you to use, and both provide fantastic views of the crater. It is a little tricky to capture the full intensity of the glow and light from the lava as it is constantly churning and boiling over. This means there is a harsh contrast between the lava in the centre of the volcano and the glow it provides on the outskirts of the rim.

Unfortunately, I only had about two hours of viewing before the clouds pulled the veil over the spectacle again.

When I woke up the next morning, I was greeted by a hot cup of coffee and a warm omelette. This warm meal solidified an overwhelming aspect of the trail – the amazing efforts that all the rangers, guides and porters made to ensure I was always comfortable. Their sense of hospitality, despite a language barrier, was a memorable component of this hike and a memory I took from the mountain to cherish forever.

The same applies to the Africa Geographic team, who set high standards for planning and managing my safari. Christian and his team checked on us regularly to ensure that things were going smoothly before, during and after the trip. And I couldn’t be happier with how the entire trip to Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo went.

Find your ideal African safari – ready-made, or ask us to build one just for you.

Chimp trekking in Mahale with Africa Geographic

Anna’s emailed request went like this: “After reading all of her books, I long to feel a little bit like Jane Goodall – like a castaway in a remote corner of Africa, chimp trekking in the wild! Can you suggest where I can track down this feeling?”

Mahale Mountains National Park in Tanzania hosts a healthy chimpanzee population that remains protected thanks to the remoteness of the Mahale Mountains. Disturbance to the primates is minimal, there is no infrastructure within the park boundaries, and the only way in and out of the park is by boat across Lake Tanganyika.

As a result, our intrepid traveller became ever more enthused at the prospect of visiting Mahale, which is increasingly recognised as Africa’s ultimate chimp trekking experience.

We asked Ana Zinger to share some of her thoughts about her experience:

“To achieve my dream, Africa Geographic designed an itinerary that involved flying for four hours to the furthest and most remote confines of Tanzania, followed by an epic two-hour lake cruise in a dhow, braving the somewhat angry waters of Lake Tanganyika.

Throughout the trip, I remained hypnotised by the alluring and incomprehensible vastness of Congo’s lowlands that extended to the west – the far bank of the vast lake. When we eventually reached the white beaches of Greystoke-Mahale, I could not unlock my gaze from the verdant and looming peaks that towered behind the lodge. We had finally arrived, and I have to confess that, not only did I feel a bit like Jane Goodall, but I also felt a bit like Tarzan’s Jane!

The staff at Greystoke were wonderful. I felt welcome and comfortable from the moment I walked into the lodge! I shall also always be thankful to them for introducing me to the delicious Ndovu Beer, now my favourite beer in Africa.

Anyone landing at Greystoke is bound to become enamoured with every nook and cranny of this lodge. The lofty main banda, visible from the lake, provides a charming and relaxing ambience to read or just hang out and chat with other guests.

Everywhere in the lodge, you stumble across cleverly considered and skillfully designed nooks to take in the beauty and serenity of Lake Tanganyika.

Each room is a love affair, spiced with exquisite décor and disguised from the next. They are tucked into the surrounding bush and at perfect distances from each other, which gives guests all the privacy that they deserve.

But chimp trekking is what this whole trip was about.

I have trekked for gorillas before – in Uganda – and, as magnificent as that experience was, I have to say that tracking chimpanzees is in a league of its own. When it comes to gorillas, you know the drill – you find them and then stay put wherever they are, watching them and the odd movements that may happen, from playful youngsters darting about to the general allogrooming and social interactions that keep troops cohesive. Chimps, on the other hand, tend to always be on the move. And boy, do they move! Trees and hills are conquered with ease, and they move like black phantoms. They are not the easiest primates to keep up with, but this is where the skills and instincts of Greystoke’s trackers kick in, and they amazingly keep you on track every time you set off after them.

I also noticed another key difference to my gorilla experiences. Chimps are ‘all over the show’ compared to gorillas, which are generally quite merry and calm. Chimp troops are more likely to be divided into sub-units, with several still up in the canopy, while others swing in the mid-storey, and the remainder interact with each other and their babies at ground level. However, on sunny days, when light beams pierce through the forest leaves, it was common to find the entire group down below, stretched out and enjoying the sun’s warm rays, or engaged in some serious grooming sessions. Needless to say, these all make for the most perfect photographic opportunities.

Whilst framing them in my viewfinder, I could not help feeling a bit jealous. I thought to myself that I could definitely use a bit of that grooming as it looked very relaxing. I felt a bit like I was photographing a chimp spa! Comparatively, observing how edgy and grumpy they were on a misty morning after a night of rain was funny.

This was one of the most intense experiences I have ever had in the forests of Africa, and it is in no small measure thanks to Africa Geographic, as well as Mahale’s Mountains, the incredible lodge and the amazing guides at Greystoke. I shall never forget their patience, innate ability to track the chimps, and how we laughed when they discovered my ability to imitate chimp contact calls. When they asked how I did it, I replied: ‘I have learned from the best.’

Back at home, when I close my eyes and think back, I can vividly remember the chimps’ chestnut brown eyes, fascinating gazes, and intense stares.

No one forgets the power of a pant-hoot. Hearing the noises they make carried a very special significance for me, as these were the sounds that Jane Goodall played as an overture to her presentations. The same cries triggered my curiosity and yearning to experience chimp tracking in Africa. Needless to say, my dream came true.

Africa Geographic got everything right. Starting with the suggestion of this wonderful place for my chimp trekking dream safari, all the information they provided, their patience, and the swiftness with which they replied to my queries. Even my rather complicated flight schedule was arranged splendidly, and all flight connections worked like clockwork. Throughout the trip, I had no surprises or changes to my itinerary, and I felt well looked after at all times so that I could relax and enjoy a most magical time.”

Find out about our chimp trekking safaris here – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

Why you should care about thickets

Thickets have perplexed botanists for decades. Also called karoo, savanna, and forest, thickets share many characteristics with these vegetation types, but do not fit snuggly into any of them. As such, thickets have recently been recognised as a distinct South African biome. Written by: Adriaan Grobler and Catherine Browne

In its typical form, a thicket forms a dense, almost impenetrable tangle of trees, shrubs, and vines, many armed with thorns and spines. Historically, thickets have received very little attention compared to their more inviting floral neighbours – the fynbos and succulent karoo.

Thicket forms one of the major vegetation types in all three of South Africa’s Biodiversity Hotspots: the Cape Floristic Region, the Maputaland-Pondoland-Albany, and the Succulent Karoo hotspots. Thicket can be found along the south-eastern coast of South Africa between the Gouritz River in the west and the Kei River in the east, and it is the dominant vegetation in the central and eastern Little Karoo, and in the major river valleys coastward of the Great Escarpment. The largest thicket areas occur in the valleys of the Gamtoos, Sundays and Fish rivers.

Haworthiopsis viscosa © Adriaan Grobler — *Haworthiopsis viscosa* © Adriaan Grobler

Thickets are rich in plant life, and the plants come in a myriad of forms, including trees and tall shrubs, low and dwarf shrubs, succulents, vines, bulbs, and grasses, as well as perennial and annual herbs. This great diversity of plant types is unmatched by any other of South Africa’s biomes. After the succulent karoo, thickets have the second-largest succulent flora in the world, and half of the 344 succulent plants found here are endemic.

Thicket also has the richest mammal fauna of any area with a similar climate. At 106 species, it is home to almost half of South Africa’s mammal fauna, including the Big Five: African elephant, black rhino, Cape buffalo, Cape leopard and lion. Similarly, thickets support close to half of South Africa’s bird fauna. 349 bird species find refuge here, making it one of the richest bird environments among similar-sized regions outside of the tropics. Trumpeter hornbills, narina trogons, orange-breasted sunbirds and Knysna turacos are bird species that one will encounter in a thicket. The rare and threatened Cape parrot can also be found in the thicket of the Amathole Mountains.

Close to 10% of thicket has been obliterated, primarily by crop production, unsustainable livestock farming and urbanisation. A further 55% of thicket is heavily degraded, and only about 10% remains pristine. Most of the unspoiled thicket can be found within the borders of state-owned nature reserves and national parks. Foremost among these is the Addo Elephant National Park, which currently covers 180,000 ha. The area consists predominantly of thicket but also includes subtropical and temperate forests, fynbos, grassland, karoo, and savanna. In addition to hosting elephant, black rhino, buffalo, zebra, leopard, lion, spotted hyena and numerous antelope species, the thicket at Addo is also home to the largest remaining population of the threatened Addo flightless dung beetle.

In light of the unique biodiversity of thicket and the fact that it is not yet adequately protected, the Subtropical Thicket Ecosystem Planning project (STEP) identified a vast network of corridors that, if protected, will ensure the persistence of the irreplaceable natural heritage that we find here. This network covers about 22% of thicket’s core area. It will need to be protected in its entirety to allow the continued functioning of thicket, especially in the face of climate change.

Euphorbia radyeri © Adriaan Grobler — *Euphorbia radyeri* © Adriaan Grobler

The Botanical Society of South Africa is committed to conserving our unique floral heritage. You, too can help make a difference for the conservation of South Africa’s vegetation, to ensure your children and their children get to explore and enjoy the wonders of biodiversity we have today.

Rehabilitating and releasing baby rhinos

Poachers often target female rhinos as they tend to have larger horns than males, as males wear their horns down when fighting. But often, adult females have baby rhinos that will not survive if she is killed.

That is why the Rhino Orphanage in Limpopo, South Africa, is the world’s first centre dedicated solely to baby rhinos. Arrie and Marietjie Van Deventer were the driving force behind this non-profit company. Their love and passion for this cause are at the operation’s heart.

I fell in love with Ntombi, a newly orphaned white rhino calf, in January 2013. She was predicted to be about 12 weeks old and had just arrived at the Rhino Orphanage after suffering 18 hack wounds at the hands of the poachers that killed her mother for her horn.

Her wounds indicated that the assailants had stood side by side, one armed with an axe, the other with a panga. The axe had struck her forehead – the damage was deep and sliced through her skull. She ran around in panic, and blood splashed out every time she moved her head. The panga had cut through where her horn would one day grow and into her nasal cavity, and whenever she put her head down to rest, blood would trickle out of her nostril.

I cried the first time I saw her. How could someone do this to an animal?

The people responsible for the killing of Ntombi’s mother are still out there, and that is a thought that sickens me.

True animal rehabilitation is extremely difficult. Your job is to gain the trust of a traumatised, wild animal, nurse it to health and maturity and later break that bond so the animal can one day continue its life in the wild. Baby rhinos are no exception. This was to be my role in Ntombi’s life alongside another carer called Vicky.

Being a rhino mum is no small feat, especially when your baby weighs more than you do! Rhino calves spend 24 hours a day with their mothers, so even a quick bathroom break can cause distress!

It didn’t take long to earn Ntombi’s trust as she took milk readily from the beginning. This trust was important as her wounds needed tending and cleaning regularly to prevent infection.

Ntombi adored our company and would regularly seek physical contact. During the day, she would sleep for long periods. In the morning and afternoon, we walked her in the bush so she could explore and wallow in the mud. At first, she needed coaxing into the mud, but this later became one of her favourite pastimes. At night she curled up with a blanket under a heat lamp and woke us up every three hours for milk.

As Ntombi grew physically, so did her personality. She was a bouncy ball of joy who loved to play and was good at getting her own way. I would spend hours reading aloud to her in the shade while she slept peacefully. It is a privilege to play a major role in one of these special animals’ lives. The days were long and the nights short, but I loved every second I spent with my adopted baby.

However, I had some fears – did she understand that she was a rhino? Would she be able to integrate with other rhinos in the wild one day? And most of all, would she be safe when she left me?

Before too long, another orphaned white rhino calf, Nkwe, joined our family. Nkwe was difficult to settle in as she refused milk and didn’t take kindly to humans.

Once she had calmed down and started taking meals, we slowly introduced Ntombi to Nkwe. They were unsure what to make of each other and ran around with their tails curled up. Each expected the other to be a surrogate mother, leading to confusion, but they soon became the best of friends.

During this time, we could take a step back, and although we still spent a lot of time with the calves, it was important for them to remember that they were rhinos. They were happy with each other’s company and would snuggle up together at night under the red light. Every time we entered their enclosure, we were greeted with rhino pushes and kisses, and they would often roll over for a belly rub.

Nkwe and Ntombi are now independent and released together into the wild. Not a day passes that I don’t think about these two special rhinos. I pray they will be safe and have their own young one day – helping build on the dwindling rhino population.

Thanks to the Rhino Orphanage, these two rhinos are alive, well and free today.

I Love Namibia

At the start of September, we left our home in Cape Town to embark on a six-week road trip to celebrate our recent nuptials. Exploring the wild places of Namibia made for a different kind of honeymoon, and our road trip turned out to be a journey of a lifetime.

Sam and James' journey across Namibia — Sam and James’ route across Namibia

Criss-crossing borders

It made sense to break up the seven-hour drive to the Namibian border by first stopping at Namaqualand National Park in South Africa, where the flowers were in spectacular bloom. After a night of camping amidst a tapestry of brilliant colours, we continued on our way until we reached Sendelingsdrif on the Orange River in |Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier National Park. This meant crossing into Namibia only to cross back into South Africa for the night, but it was all relatively easy. This border park is the only real mountain desert in southern Africa, and the Richtersveld’s Martian landscape left a lasting impression on us. In this arid area, only the hardiest of life forms survive. However, despite this, the Richtersveld is regarded as the only Arid Biodiversity Hotspot on Earth, with a surprising variety of plant, bird and animal life; much of which is endemic.

We travelled back into Namibia the following day and drove to Fish River Canyon. This is the second-largest canyon in the world after the Grand Canyon, and it was well worth the visit. We hadn’t planned it, but we even managed to make it to the quiver tree forest just outside Keetmanshoop by sunset and spent our evening with dassies, meerkats, a warthog and a border collie. Quiver tree forests are rare, and all three subspecies of the strange but beautiful trees that appear in the forest also, unfortunately, appear on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species.

Exploring Namibia’s vast landscapes is a treat as the country is one of the ten least densely populated places in the world, and it often felt like we had it all to ourselves. The next day, we returned to South Africa to enter the Kgalagadi. The Kgalagadi has an abundance of varied wildlife, and it is home to large predators such as the iconic black-maned Kalahari lions, cheetahs, leopards and hyenas. Although the park was full, it didn’t feel overcrowded and once we drove some distance from the rest camp each morning, we were often on our own.

Exploring the Namib and its surrounds

Continuing our journey after we’d had our fill of predators, we thoroughly enjoyed the drive to Sossusvlei from the Kgalagadi via Mariental. The ambience created by goats, cattle and windmills along the dusty, open roads made it particularly magical.

We stayed at Desert Quiver Camp just outside the Sesriem Gate, the entrance to the Sossusvlei area of the Namib-Naukluft National Park. Sossusvlei is one of the most photographed places in Sub-Saharan Africa, and it is easy to see why. The enormous red dunes, so perfectly sculpted against the backdrop of the dazzling Namibian sky, are something to behold. Even experiencing a full-blown dust storm turned out to be quite spectacular.

These pristine mountains of sand have been shaped over millions of years by the colliding easterly winds from the Atlantic Ocean and the westerly winds from the Naukluft Mountains. We also spent a couple of hours alone exploring Deadvlei, and it was during this time that we encountered a solitary oryx. This iconic antelope was more relaxed than we would have expected, and we walked with him for some time while accompanied by the distinct sound of the Namibian sunset – the soft, rhythmic knocking of the toktokkie beetle.

Heading north-west the next day, with the toktokkie’s morse code still ringing in our ears, the relatively short drive from Sossusvlei to Swakopmund was beautiful, and the terrain became increasingly more mountainous with spectacular strata. We were excited to arrive in Swakopmund, a beach town with German colonial architecture situated in the Namib Desert on the country’s wild coastline. We had our first meal at The Tug restaurant, which is stylishly built around the original Danie Hugo tugboat next to the jetty on the beachfront, and we checked in at the quaint Secret Garden Guesthouse, which is an excellent home-away-from-home that has the bonus of being within walking distance of the town. There is so much to do and see in Swakopmund, from sunset walks and dinners on the beachfront to spotting jackass penguins, sea lions and Cape fur seals on a boat cruise with Ocean Adventures in Walvis Bay.

Quadbiking near Namibia's adventure capital, Swakopmund — Quad biking near Namibia’s adventure capital, Swakopmund ©James Suter

Ancient rock art and desert-adapted wildlife

Once our bellies were full of German food, we left Swakopmund and drove up the Skeleton Coast, which is inundated with fog for most of the year as a result of the cold Benguela upwelling – a process in which deep, cold water rises to the surface and cools the overlying air. We spent time at Cape Cross and relished this fisherman’s paradise and the temperature change – this was the only time we wore beanies in Namibia. Then, we journeyed out of the fog to defrost in Twyfelfontein, passing through the small town of Uis on the way.

Twyfelfontein in the Kunene Region of north-western Namibia is famous for its ancient rock art, and this UNESCO World Heritage site is one of the many great reasons to visit the country. Ancient rock engravings and paintings can be found around a site inhabited 6,000 years ago – first by hunter-gatherers and later by Khoikhoi herders. At least 2,500 rock carvings and a few rock paintings can be admired. These engravings were the social media of yesteryear, and it was amazing to see the magic and mystery of these artworks.

North-western Namibia has been called an arid Eden, and people share their land and resources with desert-adapted elephant, black rhino, lion, giraffe, springbok, gemsbok, zebra and other wildlife. For this reason, it was hard not to prioritise on our trip, and we even had the chance to track rhino in a restricted area with Save the Rhino Trust Namibia. With poaching on the increase, we witnessed firsthand this small team’s challenge of patrolling an unfenced area larger than South Africa’s Kruger National Park.

Tracking desert-adapted rhino with Save the Rhino Trust ©James Suter

Reaching our oasis

After this rare opportunity, we ventured to Epupa Falls and northern Kunene. Epupa Falls is one of Namibia’s most picturesque destinations and a place we battled to leave. The falls lie within easy reach of the town of Opuwo, a bustling stop that boasts an eclectic mix of people, from tourists and business people to Himba men and women adorned in red ochre and hand-crafted jewellery. Axel Hartman, the chief operating officer at Save the Rhino Trust, had put us in touch with his friend, Koos Verwey, an ex-military man with a heart for the local people. We will never forget driving over the hill after kilometres of harsh, arid landscapes to see palm trees, baobab trees and other lush vegetation surrounding the falls and the beautiful Kunene River.

Meeting Ndjinaa, who was chained for 20 years because her community was unable to diagnose her dementia and believed that she was bewitched. Koos worked alongside the Michelle Group Trust to teach locals about this illness and they have built a dementia clinic in the area. — Meeting Ndjinaa (left), who was chained for 20 years because her community could not diagnose her dementia and believed that she was bewitched. Koos worked alongside the Michelle Group Trust to teach locals about this illness, and they have since built a dementia clinic in the area ©James Suter

A young Himba woman in northern Namibia ©James Suter

Sam soaking up the beauty of the falls ©James Suter

Waiting games at waterholes in Etosha

After three short days visiting local communities, making friends and learning about Koos’ work with the Himba tribe, we left Epupa Falls. We were soon immersed in Etosha National Park – a place we have always wanted to visit. We entered the formerly restricted western and wilder section of the park, which was only opened to the public in 2014, and we camped at the new Olifantsrus Camp right next to a waterhole teeming with wildlife. We then made our way across the park and spent two nights at Etosha Safari Lodge, which lies just 10km from the Anderson Gate near Okaukuejo. This was our first experience of the Gondwana Collection, and we can truly testify that there is something special about these lodges. After a fantastic two nights there, we indulged in another two at Mokuti Etosha Lodge, located just a four-minute drive from Etosha’s eastern Von Lindequist Gate near the historical Namutoni Fort.

Our muscles were soothed during a massage at Mokuti’s stunning spa that lies deep in the bush, away from the accommodation and other guests, and once rejuvenated, we spent the rest of our days waiting patiently at the waterholes. With it being so dry and so hot, the waterholes were alive with many different species that would visit them for a drink. In the short time that we stayed in the park, we sighted lion, hyena, black rhino, elephant, springbok, gemsbok, hartebeest, jackal, zebra, ostrich, honey badger, giraffe and wildebeest, as well as a variety of birds and smaller mammals like African wildcat and mongoose.

To avoid predators, lots of animals choose to drink at the hotter times of day when they are less likely to encounter danger ©James Suter

Hyenas take a dip to cool down. — Hyenas take a dip to cool down ©James Suter

A regal lion surveys his kingdom — A majestic lion surveys his kingdom ©James Suter

The Caprivi Strip – where four rivers meet

In contrast to the rest of the country, the Caprivi Strip, bordered by the Okavango, Kwando, Chobe and Zambezi rivers, is an area of fertile floodplains surrounded by perennial rivers.

The lush countryside appears out of nowhere after the desert landscapes of the south. Suddenly, we passed villages with goats, cattle and people by the roadside. We stayed at Hakusembe and Namushasha lodges, both part of the Gondwana Collection, and we enjoyed stunning boat cruises surrounded by lush vegetation and incredible birdlife.

Return to Cape Town

As soon as we left Namibia to enter Botswana and start our long journey home, we were welcomed by a herd of elephant crossing the tarred road just after the border post. We stayed at Chobe Marina Lodge and enjoyed cruises on the Chobe River before heading to Africa Albida’s Victoria Falls Safari Club, where we loved the vibe and energy of the lodge and the area. We had impeccable service while at the Safari Club, and we highly recommend their restaurant, The Boma.

Relaxing on a boat cruise along the Chobe River ©James Suter

A hippo has a good splash in the Chobe River ©James Suter

Elephants from a boat cruise on the Chobe River ©James Suter

The most memorable part of our stay at Victoria Falls was white water rafting down the mighty Zambezi River. This was a little more extreme than we had anticipated – we got some serious exercise from paddling 27km down the river through rapids and climbing the steep winding path afterwards to catch our ride home.

We had now reached the most northern point of our travels, and it was time to turn back and head home. On the way back down, we stopped for a night at Planet Baobab near the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans in the middle of the dry savanna of north-eastern Botswana. It is one of the largest salt flats in the world, and the pan is all that remains of the enormous Lake Makgadikgadi, which once covered an area larger than Switzerland but which dried up several thousand years ago.

We also stopped at the Kalahari Farmhouse in central Namibia en route home – where we loved our stone cottage and reading on the lawn. We hopped on a game drive into the Central Kalahari from their neighbouring lodge before having our last sundowner with our feet in the red dunes overlooking the desert.

Where to stay

For accommodation options at the best prices, visit our collection of camps and lodges.

From campsites to luxury lodges, there’s something for everyone in Namibia. If you’re thinking of planning a trip, here’s a shortlist of some of the places where Sam and James stayed on their travels that they highly recommend:

Twee Rivieren Rest Camp is run by SANParks and is the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park’s largest camp. It is the only camp in the park with round-the-clock electricity and cell phone reception, so if you’re tired after a long day’s travelling, this is the best place to re-charge your batteries.

The Secret Garden Guesthouse is in the heart of ‘Old Swakopmund’ and offers a home for pizza-loving families and pets. Reasonably priced, it is an excellent base from which to explore all the adventure that the town has to offer.

Situated 120km north of Swakopmund, Cape Cross Lodge lies just metres from the Atlantic Ocean, providing a perfect place to explore the untamed wilderness of the Skeleton Coast.

Are you looking for the best seat in the house to view the falls? Then head to Epupa Falls Lodge, owned by ex-military man Koos Verwey and found in the heart of Kaokoland – home to the ancient Himba people who are indigenous to Namibia.

Epupa Falls Lodge in northern Kunene ©Sam Suter

Twyfelfontein Country Lodge is a luxurious lodge located in the Kunene region of Namibia, which prides itself on various rock engravings and paintings that date back to the first hunter-gatherers in the area.

Mokuti Etosha Lodge is the perfect place for travellers who wish to explore the diverse wildlife in the famous eastern side of Etosha National Park. Mokuti prides itself on modern accommodation in a landscaped setting, with views of beautiful gardens and the indigenous bush beyond.

Hakusembe River Lodge and Namushasha River Lodge on the Caprivi strip both provide incredible idylls for the most seasoned of travellers, and you can unwind away from the world once you’ve stepped into the magical enclave of the Kalahari Farmhouse.

Search our ready-made safaris or ask us to build one just for you.

Where to eat

Stop off for an apple crumble at Solitaire Moose Macgregor Bakery at Solitaire Country Lodge en route to Swakopmund from Sossusvlei. Life’s short; eat dessert first.

Tuck into a richly diverse menu at The Tug in Swakopmund and pair your meal with one of 140 of the finest South African wines on offer. Or if you have more of a craving for bratwurst and sauerkraut, don’t miss the Swakopmund Brauhaus for the chance to dine in a typically Bavarian setting in Africa.

With three restaurants, as well as a microbrewery, beer garden, deli and a beach kiosk with its private pavilion, the Strand Hotel Swakopmund has it all. Its sea-facing terraces make it the perfect place to enjoy Namibian oysters and a great view.

Don’t drive past The Fish Deli in Swakopmund without stopping for a delicious smoked salmon and egg roll.

Tips and tricks

1. When going on a game drive in the Kgalagadi, get out as early as possible so you don’t have to endure the dust from other vehicles.
2. Book well in advance for a trip, especially if you wish to travel in September.
3. Spend quality time at waterholes in Etosha, and your patience will pay off.
4. Many people find Deadvlei more impressive and less busy than Sossusvlei.
5. Beat the crowds and enjoy the sunrise by climbing the dunes in the morning.
6. Drink lots of water to avoid heatstroke, but first, ensure it is drinkable.
7. Don’t swim in the Kunene River at Epupa Falls, as there are crocodiles. Rather cool off in the pools at the top of the waterfall – after checking which ones are safe.
8. Support a community campsite. You are almost camping in the community’s backyard, contributing to conservation by supporting these sites.
9. Know your vehicle. Although help can be found along some routes, be prepared to change a tyre (or three).

About the authors

James and Sam Suter were exposed to the wonders of Africa and its wilderness areas from a young age. After graduating with a diploma in Environmental Studies, James went on to guide where he honed his skills, picked up his camera and started documenting the scenes from his day-to-day life. James now offers private photographic safaris and operates throughout Southern and East Africa. As well as his private guiding, James is co-owner of Black Bean Productions – a small, independent production company in Cape Town. Sam is the producer at Black Bean Productions. With a passion for conservation, travel and Africa, she creates short films and assists teams in raising much-needed funds and awareness to continue the good work that they are doing on the ground.

Herero

Photographer Jim Naughten first came across the Herero tribe when he visited Namibia fifteen years ago. He fell in love with the country and its extraordinary inhabitants. He was particularly spellbound the first time he saw a Herero lady sashaying across the desert outside Swakopmund in her beautiful dress.
What interested him, particularly, was the history behind the dresses and how things can get frozen in time. Their antiquated clothing was introduced by the German settlers and has since become a vital part of Herero identity, despite a dreadful war waged by the colonisers that resulted in the death of 80% of the Herero tribe.
Jim sees the dresses and Herero costume as symbols of defiance, survival and cultural identity. In this photoshoot, he was lucky enough to work with a Herero tour guide company, which backed the financing for the project. All the people photographed also received fees, and the crew brought supplies, such as maize, coffee, and sugar, to the villages where they stayed.
Jim had the chance to get to know the people and their culture very well during his three-and-a-half-month stay in their villages, and the response to his work from the Herero community has been very positive.
In the above photo, two women from the Otjigrine section of the Otruppe march alongside women from a different group in military dresses worn at ceremonies such as Herero Day to commemorate Herero chiefs of the past.

Two Herero women display their traditional patchwork dresses. Their hats are designed to resemble cow horns, and the ‘horns’ of their headdresses get smaller as they age. Some say that this is a symbol of their decreasing fertility.

The tradition of wearing floor-length formal attire started in the late 19th century when Christian missionary women sought to convert the tribe and clothe them in the European fashion of the times. The Herero women tend to wear these traditional dresses from their wedding day onwards

Herero women assume the cow dance pose; a celebration dance during which participants stamp their feet and kick up dust to imitate the upraised horns and swaying movements of the cattle they rear.

The men of the Herero tribe, in contrast to the women, do not dress up as Victorian gentlemen but as soldiers. Their attire is a permanent reminder of when the tribe came close to being exterminated by German colonisers. By mimicking the style conventions of their oppressors, they diminish the enemy’s power.

These uniforms demonstrate a form of social structure more than a present-day military movement, and male members of the tribe tend to wear these outfits at ceremonies and festivals mainly.

During the war that ended in 1908, Herero men would take pride in wearing the uniforms of German soldiers they had killed. To this day, the Herero people continue to wear the uniforms of their European oppressors to honour their warrior ancestors.

The cavalry struts by

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ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHER

Jim Naughten is a photographic artist currently exploring themes with historical subject matter. He was awarded a painting scholarship to Lancing College and later studied photography at the Arts Institute of Bournemouth in the UK.
Naughten’s work has been widely featured in European and US exhibitions. It includes a solo show at the Imperial War Museum, and group shows at the Royal Academy of Art and National Portrait Galleries in London.
His first series, Re-enactors, was published as a monograph in 2009 by Hotshoe Books. His second, Hereros, was published by Merrell in March 2013, and his new book, Animal Kingdom, will be published by Prestel in April 2016.
Collections of his work are held at The Imperial War Museum, The Museum of Fine Arts in Houston, Honolulu Museum of Art, and many private collections in the US, UK and Europe.

A very special pangolin rescue

This is not just another story about a pangolin rescue. This is a story of compassion and hope, a story of transboundary teamwork of two nations coming together to help two endangered mammals. A story that hopefully reminds us that we all have a role to play no matter how big or small. Written by: Ellen Connelly

When an email arrived alerting me of two rescued pangolins in Mozambique. My heart sank, and I had to take a deep breath before I could even read the words on the page. Two pangolins were being sold on the side of the road in Nampula in northern Mozambique. The rescuers, Nuno and Vicky, had seen this type of poaching occur while working in Mozambique. Knowing that buying the pangolins from the poacher could perpetuate the continual trade, Nuno and Vicky were at a loss as to what they should do. Honestly, though, there was only one thing to do, and that was to save these animals from starvation, dehydration and ultimately death. So they bought the pangolins from the poacher and took them to a safe ‘temporary’ environment.

It was at this point that the Tikki Hywood Foundation in Zimbabwe got involved. Through the IUCN-SSC Pangolin Specialist Group based in London, we were contacted to assist with supportive care and a solution to the problem. I was so relieved that we live in a world of emails and Skype, as it was not long before we were communicating with Nuno on a way forward. We quickly established the weights of the pangolins and offered advice on how best to proceed.

True to any epic tale – the plot could only thicken from this point. It was obvious that the two pangolins, which we now had established were mother and son, could not stay where they currently were. Within a few phone calls, we were put in touch with people on the ground in Mozambique who could take the pangolins.

Niassa Carnivore Project, run by Keith Begg, was the solution, and Keith jumped full force behind this project. Without worrying for a second about any cost implications, he was only concerned about the safety of the pangolins. But some issues to be considered – moving wildlife in Mozambique requires a permit, and up until this particular pangolin rescue, we had not had any involvement with the Mozambican authorities so we were rather concerned as to how we were going to achieve this without knowing the ‘right’ people.

We contacted Damien Mander of IAPF, who is currently involved with a rhino project in Mozambique and asked if he could direct us. Moments later, Damien emailed Dr Carlos Pereira and introduced the Tikki Hywood Trust and our work in Zimbabwe concerning pangolins. I was incredibly relieved when a new email arrived in my inbox from Dr Pereira. Not only was he aware of the increased pangolin poaching in Mozambique, but he was also completely on board in supporting the move of these rescued pangolins.

Together with Cornelio Miguel, warden of the Niassa National Reserve, Luis Tomas Sande, the chief of services who issued the permit that was required over a weekend, and Mr Aly, the head of the wildlife sector in Nampula, the necessary documentation and approval was given. The plan was put in action to get the pangolins to Niassa.

With just a cardboard box and a couple of towels, the pangolins were taken to the airport, where Keith would collect his precious cargo and give them their second chance. Both pangolins remained calm and never tried to leave the box, and the mother nurtured her young when the opportunity allowed. We had become concerned about both pangolins because they had dropped weight, likely from lack of food, but this was to be expected, and the time could not come sooner for them to move back to the wild.

The morning of 18th October arrived, and there was great excitement from Zimbabwe to Mozambique. The pangolins were to be transported to Nampula Airport by Nuno and Vicky, who would be met by the necessary authorities and ushered through the airport checks, where Keith would be waiting with the pilot, Alan Evans Hanes. Thanks to the organisation and support of everyone involved, the process was quick, and it was not long before the pangolins were loaded into the plane and their journey to freedom began.

The persecution of the pangolin continues unabated. An increasing number of these shy creatures are being tortured and killed for an unsustainable belief system in Asia facilitated by the illegal wildlife trade in Africa. We are losing our wildlife at a dramatic rate, which is why this rescue was all the more crucial. On behalf of the Tikki Hywood Trust and myself, we would like to thank the pangolin team who bravely and compassionately gave these two pangolins a second chance. This rescue could not have been achieved without dedicated people.

Like any true epic tale, however, there will be a part to the story that pulls heavily on the heartstrings. Unfortunately, the mother pangolin died shortly after arrival at the intended release site. We believe she had succumbed to starvation whilst still trying to nurture a growing baby. The silver lining is that the little boy is doing well, and his prospects for a successful release are positive.

Read more about Africa’s arboreal artichokes: Fascinating Pangolin Facts

5 things I wish I knew before climbing Kilimanjaro

If you make it to the crater of Mount Kilimanjaro, being able to see for miles and miles above the clouds makes the whole experience worthwhile. Written by: Matt Phillips

One final push and you arrive at Uhuru Peak – something I thought impossible. People are exhausted and very emotional, and you take it all in before you realise that you have to walk all the way back down. But here are five things that I wished I knew before I left:

1. Porters are the hardest-working people on the mountain

These guys will pretty much pick you up when you are down; they will leave camp after you and arrive before you; they will carry your bags, tents and other bits of equipment. Porters will completely go out of their way to make sure you are happy and safe; they will sing and dance all the way to the top of Kilimanjaro and stay with you when you most need support.

2. Altitude sickness

Not everyone will suffer from this, but many people do, especially after climbing to a high altitude too quickly. Most people get headaches, feel sick and dizzy – and the higher you go the worse the symptoms. On summit night, I suffered headaches, exhaustion and confusion while others suffered from sickness.

3. Bring plenty of water neutralising tablets

If you have treated your water with chlorine tablets, you will have a horrible taste of swimming pool water because of the chlorine. I found it very hard to want to drink water tasting like that, but neutralising tablets will take the swimming pool taste away completely. Not packing these is one of my biggest regrets!

4. Learn basic Swahili

English is not the first language for many porters and guides, so communication can sometimes be difficult. But do not worry; learning and speaking Swahili with your porters and guides can be fun.

5 . Nothing can prepare you for summit night

This was potentially the hardest night of my life. The more people I tell this to, the more people think it’s a complete exaggeration.

Leaving base camp at around midnight, after trying to sleep for a maximum of three hours, you start your summit climb. Two hours go by, and you are still walking. Five hours go by, and you are still walking. Everything will start to freeze – including your water. You stop for 10 seconds and struggle to get your breath back. I felt so exhausted and confused that I wanted to throw down my trekking poles and go home. That night, I kept asking myself why I was putting myself through so much physical and psychological pain on earth.

Then you reach Stella Point. The Kilimanjaro summit is only 45 minutes away, and the remaining walk is mostly flat and offers the most amazing view of the sun rising through the clouds, lifting everyone’s spirits. You then make it to the crater of Kilimanjaro. Looking around at all the glaciers and being able to see for miles and miles above the clouds, makes the whole experience totally worthwhile.

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A photo safari to South Luangwa

A group of six intrepid guests recently participated in an Africa Geographic safari to the remote and wild Nsefu Sector of the South Luangwa National Park. By: Ed Selfe

This area is only accessible during the sector’s peak game viewing months (August-October). It offers some of the most genuine and rewarding game-viewing in Southern Africa, with the increasingly rare benefit of being extremely remote and secluded with few other visitors. The Luangwa River’s meanderings create a diverse matrix of beautiful habitats that form a stunning natural backdrop.

The very first evening in Luangwa was blessed by a beautiful sunset with a couple of elephants sedately drinking at the river. We couldn’t have set it up more perfectly! And it did set the tone for the week as we enjoyed wonderful sightings in the Luangwa Valley.

The benefits of this remote area were evident on the very first morning when a herd of bull elephants of mixed ages were spotted heading towards the river. We followed the river and stopped in the perfect spot to view them cross – with no one else around.

Holding a Grade 1 guide’s licence allows me to lead walking safaris in the national park, so when the bulls moved out of the river and across the sand, we got down from the vehicle and flat on the ground. Whilst safely protected by the vehicle, we took some wonderful low-angle photos.

One of the mornings, we locked onto the alarm calls of a puku (an antelope species found almost exclusively in Zambia’s riverine regions) and after some searching, we came across the source of the commotion – a chunky male leopard climbing from tree to tree.

We used Zikomo Safari Camp as our base – a simple, rustic and remote camp on the banks of the Luangwa. They have an enviable location bordering the main South Luangwa National Park and the Nsefu Sector. This meant that we had permission to cross the rivers that form the park’s boundaries, which allowed us to follow up on any sightings or sounds happening on either bank of the river. There is nothing more frustrating than spotting lions on the far bank and being powerless to approach them!

So it was one morning that we found the local Luwi pride resting in the shade of a sausage tree on the opposite bank. That afternoon, we left camp, crossed the river and approached the pride as they were rousing. The light was perfect, and the interaction between the males and their cubs was one of the highlights of the trip.

The females soon set off hunting, so we gave them some space to manoeuvre, but the light was still too bright, and their attempts failed. We settled down in a sandy riverbed and shared the last of the evening light with them. Once again, we were entirely alone at this wonderful sighting in one of Africa’s most remarkable locations – a truly amazing feeling. There was ample time to discuss compositions, the best angles for lighting, and for every guest to ask questions about how to get the photos they wanted.

One night, we carefully approached a hyena den, knowing that they had small cubs. We kept very quiet and waited for them to come out. It didn’t take long, and the following 30 minutes became an incredible highlight of this trip as two cubs were seen being groomed and cared for by a large female. We were able to sit and watch this behaviour without disturbing them and enjoyed a great chance to discuss what were the best settings to make the most of spotlight photography.

Later that night, we met another vehicle on a lion sighting. We took the chance to photograph the lion using their light – a textbook opportunity to photograph with a spotlight and another chance to teach and learn.

Our last morning turned out to be the best. Just when I wondered what else I would try to show the group, a large herd of buffaloes approached the river. While the buffaloes sniffed the air and decided whether to come down, we played with fast-shutter speed shots of impalas running across the sand – producing a very respectable and fun collection of panning shots.

Finally, the large buffalo herd came down the bank, and we all managed to take some great photos that captured the moment – the haze, dust and slightly harsh light worked beautifully to accentuate the drama of this encounter.

Moving on from this, we were very happy to find a small lion pride we had followed earlier in the week. They had recently killed a warthog and were contentedly feeding on the carcass.

Returning to camp as the light became too bright, we found giraffes coming to drink at the river and enjoyed their reflections appearing and disappearing as the wind blew ripples across the water.

Next year, we will continue to use the rustic and simple offerings of Zikomo Bush Camp, and we plan to visit the valley a little earlier to avoid the heat while still reaping the endemic benefits offered by the Nsefu Sector.

As it often happens when I leave this area, I am already yearning to be back. I cannot wait to show this awesome corner of Zambia to anyone who chooses to join us on an Africa Geographic safari.

Comments from our guests:

“The lodge staff are very friendly, accommodating and helpful and went out of their way to make our stay comfortable. Food was good and one could not expect any better, considering the remoteness and heat that they have to contend with on a daily basis. Ed is a highly likeable person and conducted the safari in a very professional manner. He is very knowledgeable and explained things about nature in good detail. He understands photography and manoeuvred the vehicle into great positions for making the most out of photographic opportunities.” – A.Ellmer, South Africa

“Ed Selfe, the guide on this photographic safari, was brilliant at accommodating the wide variety of levels of photographic experience on the trip. His photographic knowledge and ranger experience were invaluable to improving my photographic skills.” – B. Hobday, Australia

How about South Luangwa for your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

8 unexpected uses for elephant dung

Elephants spend a good portion of each day eating. These gentle giants consume 150-200kg of food daily – and produce up to 100kg of elephant dung daily. Written by: Willow Alexandria Brough

An estimated 130,000 elephants occur seasonally in Botswana, meaning they produce about 13,000 metric tons of manure daily in that country! It is unsurprising that people have thought up some pretty creative uses for elephant dung over the years.

As the old adage goes: “waste not, want not!”; here are eight useful ways to make the most of all that poop:

1. Mosquito repellent

Lighting up a piece of elephant dung to keep the mozzies away might not sound incredibly appealing to some, but I can promise that if you ever find yourself out in the bush with no alternative, the bites on your ankles will quickly change your mind. Luckily, just the smoke from burning a dried-up chunk of dung is enough to repel mosquitos, which saves you from having to rub it on your skin. Surprisingly, it also doesn’t have a particularly pungent smell and is less offensive to your nostrils than the average spray-on repellent.

2. Lifesaving water

I genuinely hope you’ll never be in a situation where squeezing the last remaining liquid out of fresh elephant dung is your only option. However, for the sake of survival, if you are ever lost with no water in an area where elephants roam, this is a solution; albeit a rather undignified one. Take a handful of fresh elephant dung and squeeze …

3. Mild pain killer and a remedy for a bleeding nose

Because of the large variety of plants an elephant consumes daily, their dung is a one-stop-shop for traditional healing. In their faeces, you can find traces of most of the foliage that a medicine man would use in his treatments. Once it has been lit and the flames have been blown out, allowing it to smoulder, all it takes is one deep breath of smoke and that headache should be gone. As well as curing headaches, dulling toothaches and limiting other pains, elephant dung is known to clear the sinuses and cure bleeding noses. So rather than searching the savannah for the herb or bark used to cure a specific ailment, just consider inhaling some elephant dung instead!

4. Eco-friendly paper

Despite the vast quantities of food they shove in their mouths, an elephant digests only about 45% of what it consumes. Elephants are herbivores with highly fibrous diets, so much of the undigested material passes through them as intact fibres. And this is why their excrement can easily be made into paper products. Today, our paper is most commonly made with wood fibre pulp, but a similar pulp can be derived from the fibres in elephant dung. This ‘poo paper’ does have a slightly different texture than what we’re used to, but I would rather write on slightly rougher paper than watch our forests be chopped down.

5. A coffee brew

You’ve probably already heard of those ‘trendy’ (but ethically highly compromised) coffee beans passed through farmed civets’ digestive systems. The beans are collected from their stool, then washed, dried and roasted by brewers before being sold for ridiculous sums of money. Well, now it seems that someone in Thailand’s Golden Triangle has had a similar idea, but on a much larger scale. Instead of civets, a herd of 20 captive elephants are pooping out coffee beans made into coffee. They’re calling it Black Ivory Coffee and are serving it exclusively in five-star resorts across Asia and the Middle East. As elephants are herbivores (unlike civets), the fermentation process they use to break down the cellulose in their food brings out the sweet, fruity flavours in the bean and gives the coffee its chocolatey-cherry taste. All traces of bitterness vanish, and it has even been described as a sort of tea-coffee hybrid due to its softness on the palate.

6. Bizarre beer

The success of Black Ivory Coffee has inspired an even stranger drink – Un Kono Kuro. The name of this strange beverage is a pun on the Japanese word for poo, ‘unko’. Those same beans that elephants excrete are then fermented into beer. Its flavour is similar to that of the coffee – mellow and sweet, with its initial bitterness giving way to a hint of chocolate. One satisfied reviewer went so far as to refer to the aftertaste of the beer as more of an afterglow. With such a demand for this novelty alcohol, Un Kono Kuro was so successful that its online store sold out within minutes of its launch.

7. Biogas

Sources of green energy are becoming more important by the day. With fossil fuel supplies dwindling and global warming taking its toll, the time to find alternatives is now. Luckily, some zoos and sanctuaries are wising up and using the resources right under their feet. With the help of biogas digesters, the waste products of herbivores can be used to generate gas for stoves, heat and even electricity. And as we all now know, elephants are a perfect candidate thanks to the amount that they poop. As the digesters break down the organic waste, methane and carbon dioxide are collected to be used in stoves or gas-powered engines. Nutrient-rich bio-slurry is also created during this process, which can then be used as a fertiliser.

8. A home

This last one isn’t for us humans, but a lump of elephant dung acts as home to many creatures. Scientists know elephants as ‘eco-system’ engineers – meaning they can control the availability of resources for other organisms by modifying the physical environment. Many insects make these piles of poop their home, including beetles, scorpions, crickets, termites and millipedes. And we all know that dung beetles bury balls of elephant dung after laying their eggs in it. As well as creating a highly nutritious home for some of the smaller creatures, it also benefits those who would want to eat those creatures. Honey badgers, mongooses, hornbills and francolins will scratch through them, snacking on the hidden bugs and grubs.

And this concludes our chat about elephant dung. Remember, just because we call something a waste product doesn’t necessarily mean we should waste it.

iSimangaliso: park for the people

The name iSimangaliso means miracle and wonder in isiZulu, and Africa Geographic’s CEO, Simon Espley, can most certainly attest to that after completing iSimangaliso’s mountain bike challenge:

“‘If you encounter an elephant, buffalo or hippo, keep cycling!’ This was the gist of the briefing that we were given before the start of our mountain bike adventure. This was followed by advice on how to behave if any of the animals as mentioned earlier might be stubbornly blocking the bush tracks and game trails that we were following on our 4-day cycle through Maputoland.

And so began an immersion for me into the depths of iSimangaliso Wetland Park – a World Heritage Site, Africa’s oldest protected area, and without a doubt one of South Africa’s most beautiful and diverse national parks.

Perhaps a safari from a saddle is not everybody’s cup of tea, but potentially being ‘on the menu’, as it were, certainly gave me a different perspective than from the comfort of a vehicle. Throughout the event, we had the chance to cycle through eight distinct interlinking ecosystems – each one unique and yet somehow also at one with the others.

The region was experiencing an extended drought during my adventure, with the receding lake shoreline and many of the marshes reduced to rock-hard cracked mud as far as the eye could see. Yet each day was magical as we navigated our way through sand forests, thorn savannah, rolling palm-dotted grasslands, lake shorelines and across rocky Lebombo mountain ridges.

One particularly magical stretch for me was a long track through the sand forests bordering Lake St Lucia’s False Bay. It was early morning, and the forest was alive with birds – crested guineafowl and gorgeous bush-shrikes being personal highlights as I toiled through the thick sand, alone in my thoughts. A red forest duiker scuttling across the path in front of me caught my attention, as did a family of bushpigs that went snorting off into the undergrowth at my approach. As the morning matured and the temperature rose, so the avian chorus changed, with tambourine doves and yellow-rumped tinkerbirds taking over with their melancholy musing.

One afternoon I strolled through the extremely laid back town of St Lucia to catch a ferry cruise up the lake – cold beers and a comfy chair made for a nice change from a day in the saddle. Imagine my excitement when I spotted a reclusive African finfoot in the nearby reeds, and I tried to point it out to my fellow passengers. However, they were captivated by the large pod of hippos grunting, snorting and cavorting right next to the ferry. And for me, that moment sums up iSimangaliso in a nutshell – this incredibly endowed wonderland has something for everybody.

There’s something for everyone to get excited about at iSimangaliso ©Jacques Marais

During our cycle, we also mingled with the local people who depend on this spectacular area for their livelihoods and who play such a vital role in its ongoing survival. A lasting memory of iSimangaliso was the involvement of local people in the management of the park and the surrounding areas – this is an essential element of conservation going forward. It is also good to know that visiting iSimangaliso contributes directly to community welfare as well as to biodiversity conservation.”

The history of iSimangaliso makes it clear why the park places community development at the forefront of their conservation strategies.

A successful conservation model that also offered tangible benefits to poverty-stricken communities

During the late eighties and early nineties, half a million South African citizens signed a petition against a multinational mining company’s plans to mine the iSimangaliso dunes for titanium and other heavy metals. The citizens were also backed by Nelson Mandela, who strongly approved of nature-based tourism as an environmentally friendly approach to income generation. A battle ensued, and the citizens won, with South Africa’s government ruling in favour of protecting the area’s fragile beauty. With five cultural groups that call the park their home, the development of a ‘people’s park’ in the area was suggested as an alternative to mining, and tourism and conservation became important regional economic drivers. It became vital that iSimangaliso create a successful conservation model that also offered tangible benefits to poverty-stricken communities in and around the area.

According to iSimangaliso’s CEO, Andrew Zaloumis: “There are still many challenges facing iSimangaliso. The most important is to ensure that progress continues to be made towards putting an end to the paradox of poverty amidst the plenty of nature.”

Local community members play a large role in the tourism industry ©Scott Ramsay, LoveWildAfrica.com

With this in mind, there is an essential focus on improving soils and providing access to water, fencing and seeds to communities to improve food security in the area, while also protecting the vulnerable coastal peat swamp forest.

Furthermore, the development of infrastructure in the park is creating employment, and land claimants are empowered to co-manage the area. At the same time, the iSimangaliso Authority enables community members to develop skills in hospitality and guiding so that they can prosper in the local tourism industry.

A craft programme also links about 300 women crafters to an urban retail market that includes Mr Price Home.

The communities living in and around iSimangaliso today have a rich relationship with the land and its past, and tribal traditions, as well as indigenous knowledge, continue to shape the current environment in which 526 bird species and 2,505 species of flowering plants flourish. And it is the inherent understanding of the importance of conserving both our cultural and natural landscapes that makes the surrounding majesty of Lake St Lucia so unique.

Cormorants sit on traditional fishing traps ©Scott Ramsay, LoveWildAfrica.com

With its 25,000-year-old coastal dunes and 700-year-old fish traps, the wetland park is of historical significance. It is home to the prehistoric-looking coelacanth, which was once considered extinct, but has been discovered living in the deep submarine canyons off Sodwana Bay. The park is also the largest protected area of recorded Stone Age and Iron Age sites in South Africa.

With the world’s highest density of black rhino, Africa’s largest estuarine system, and the greatest bird diversity on the continent, the biological wealth of this area is testament to what can be achieved in the name of conservation.

There’s so much to see both above and below the water ©Scott Ramsay, LoveWildAfrica.com

This 332,000-hectare park is an outstanding example of the global values that former President Mandela so strongly stood for, and it’s easy to understand why the park became the first place in South Africa to be listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in December 1999.

In a poignant speech that marked the reintroduction of elephants to the Eastern shores of Lake St Lucia in 2002, Mandela pronounced:

“iSimangaliso must be the only place on the globe where the oldest land mammal (the rhinoceros) and the world’s biggest terrestrial mammal (the elephant) share an ecosystem with the world’s oldest fish (the coelacanth) and the world’s biggest marine mammal (the whale).”

These words have forever engrained themselves onto the shores that stretch from Maphelane to Kosi Bay, and no sentence has ever better captured the essence of the area.

Surrender to the beautiful coastline of KwaZulu-Natal ©Paul Changuion, Makakatana Bay Lodge

WHAT TO DO

Thanks to its entry fee pricing strategy, iSimangaliso truly remains a park for the people by maintaining public access to the park and activities at affordable prices.

And to complement the sheer ecological, historical and social diversity of the region, there is a variety of adventure activities to enjoy in the area, including kayaking, deep sea charter fishing and horseback riding.

Get to know your neighbours ©Scott Ramsay, LoveWildAfrica.com

Whether you’re interested in birding or game viewing on trails, making friends with the hippos and crocodiles on an estuary boat cruise on Lake St Lucia, or scuba diving amidst the 1,258 species of fish and colourful coral reefs, there is something for everyone both above and below land.

From spotting the Big Five in the bushes to finding the five different species of turtles on the beaches, it’s hard to run short of things to keep you busy in this stretch of paradise.

Just don’t miss the start of the ancient nesting ritual when the leatherback and loggerhead turtles return each November to lay their eggs on iSimangaliso’s pristine shores. From 1^st November 2015 to 28^th February 2016, iSimangaliso has allowed Thonga Beach Lodge to conduct turtle drives once per night in a 4×4 vehicle that is allowed to carry a maximum of 10 guests and that leaves one hour before low tide. This can mean some very late nights, but it’s worth it!

Don’t miss turtle nesting season ©Scott Ramsay, LoveWildAfrica.com

WHERE TO STAY

For accommodation options at the best prices, visit our collection of camps and lodges

Accommodation ranges from rustic trail camps to high-end lodges, so the park caters to almost every passion and budget, which explains why thousands of tourists worldwide visit each year.

If you’re a happy camper, you have your pick of the litter in iSimangaliso. The campsites in the park vary in size from a private 10-site facility at Mabibi Beach to a much larger facility divided into several camps at Sodwana Bay. It’s worth checking out the iSimangaliso website for further information to help you decide what suits you best.

Cranking the comfort up a notch, several self-catering options range from rustic huts to log cabins. These are based primarily in Kosi Bay, uMkhuze, False Bay, Eastern Shores and Maphelane, and you can make your choices depending on whether a swimming pool is of prime importance or ocean views are what makes you tick.

And if you’re only interested in catered lodges, try these incredible options that will cater to your every whim in the Coastal Forest section of the park – Kosi Forest Lodge, Makakatana Bay Lodge and Thonga Beach Lodge.

Find your ideal ready-made package for your next African safari – or ask us to build one just for you.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

Each season has something extraordinary to offer in this region, but you can expect more rain from November to February, which means that the vegetation is much greener. March to October are the cooler months when it is less humid, so if you love to walk or hate the heat, then this is the best time for you. And if you’re a twitcher, then June to August are the best months to bring your binoculars as this is breeding season.

Just be warned that if you do wish to visit the park over the South African school holidays, you’ll need to book accommodation well in advance.

iSimangaliso is a twitcher's paradise ©Scott Ramsay, www.LoveWildAfrica.com — iSimangaliso is a twitcher’s paradise ©Scott Ramsay, LoveWildAfrica.com

The wetlands during times of drought ©Paul Changuion, Makakatana Bay Lodge

Seaweed – 10 facts and interesting uses

Seaweed is a plant. All too often, when thinking of our vast floral biodiversity, we think of all the land plants and forget about the marine and aquatic plants out there. The Botanical Society of South Africa and Gavin Maneveldt, of the Department of Biodiversity and Conservation Biology at the University of the Western Cape open your eyes to some interesting facts about life in the sea and marine ‘flower beds’. Written by: Gavin Maneveldt and Catherine Browne

Oceans cover 71% of Earth’s surface and contain 97% of Earth’s water. Not surprisingly, the oceans are the largest source of biotic diversity on the planet. It is estimated that as much as 80% of all life on Earth is found under the ocean surface, and an estimated 90% of all photosynthetic life occurs in the oceans. This means that seaweeds and the microscopic algae of the ocean make up roughly nine-tenths of all the plant-like life on Earth.

Did you know these 10 facts about seaweeds?

1. Most of the world’s oxygen (about 70%) comes from seaweeds and other microscopic algae.

2. Seaweeds support primary production levels 6-10 times greater than the most intensive land-based agricultural systems.

3. It is estimated that there are nine times more microscopic algae and seaweeds in the oceans than plants on land.

4. Together with microscopic algae called phytoplankton, seaweeds (macroscopic algae) are responsible for all primary production in the oceans and, therefore, form the basis of the food chain in the oceans.

5. Seaweeds are amongst the fastest-growing organisms on the planet. For example, under optimal conditions, the giant kelp Macrocystis pyrifera, can grow nearly a metre (three feet) a day – attaining lengths over 50m.

6. While most seaweeds are soft and fleshy, many, particularly red seaweeds, are hard as rock. These hard red seaweeds, commonly known as coralline algae, deposit lime into their cell walls.

7. Strictly speaking, seaweeds are not plants. Only green seaweeds are considered plants as they have given rise to land plants. However, like plants, most algae and seaweeds depend on sunlight to create energy through photosynthesis.

8. Many argue that red seaweeds should be placed in a kingdom of their own. They are the only organisms on the planet with three life cycle stages.

9. Seaweeds assimilate minerals directly from the sea and are thought to be the most nutritious foods you can eat. Rich in trace elements and vitamins, many frequently contain more protein than meat and more calcium than milk.

10. The word seaweed is so commonly used, yet to refer to these marine algae as ‘weeds’ is very far from the truth. Although we often cannot smell or taste them, many ingredients in our foods and household products come from the sea and seaweed.

Common uses of seaweeds:

1. Green seaweeds:

– Eaten in the Far East as a green vegetable in salads and soups

– Are rich in carotenoids (an antioxidant, age-defying substance)

– Are now known to help prevent cancer (including breast cancer in women), heart disease and strokes.

– Beta carotene, derived from green seaweeds, is used as a yellow-orange food colourant in cheese, coffee creamers, egg substitutes, margarine, mayonnaise, multivitamins and salad dressings.

2. Whole brown seaweeds such as kelp:

– Considered an excellent detoxifying agent.

– Produce alginate, a substance of considerable economic value used as a gelling and emulsifying agent. For example, alginate prevents the formation of ice crystals in ice cream. In the medical industry, alginate is used to encapsulate tablets in powder form and to form fracture castings and moulds. Other alginate products include brownie mix, frozen foods, desserts, relishes, salad dressing, sauces, gravies and even beer foam.

– Kelp also contains an astonishing amount of vitamins and minerals, particularly iodine, which has a normalising effect on the thyroid gland that controls the body’s growth and development.

– In many countries, kelp is harvested as a feed and nutritional supplement for commercially farmed animals.

– Due to its high micronutrient contents, kelp is widely used as fertilisers and plant growth stimulants.

3. While the seaweed industry in the West is based mainly on seaweed extracts, in the East, seaweeds are cultivated in huge quantities for human consumption. Red seaweeds from the genus Porphyra (purple laver), in particular, contribute at least 80% of all seaweed harvested worldwide.

In Asia, Porphyra (known as nori) is eaten as a whole seaweed, either dried or in soups, and globally as tasty wrappings for sushi. Nori’s iodine and high vitamin and protein content make it attractive, as does the relative simplicity of its mariculture (sea farming), which began more than 300 years ago in Japan.

4. Besides food for direct consumption, red seaweeds are also important for their phycocolloid extracts. Phycocolloids are seaweed derivatives that cause particles to remain suspended in solution and are, therefore, excellent as stabilising and gelling agents. The main phycocolloids derived from red seaweeds are carrageenan and agar.

Carrageenan is highly sought-after in western societies and is especially important in the dairy industry. Milkshakes, cheese, yoghurt and powdered milk (including baby formula) all possess red seaweed carrageenan extracts. Carrageenan is also used in toothpaste, cosmetics, shampoos, paints and pet food.

Agar, on the other hand, has its most important use as a medium on which to culture fungi and bacteria in microbial and medical pathological research. In food for human consumption, agar is found in baking and confectionery products and is widely used to clarify wine, juice and vinegar due to its excellent protein-binding properties. In larger industries, agar is used to make adhesives and capsules for tablets.

Sweets made with agar © Gavin Maneveldt — Sweets made with agar ©Gavin Maneveldt

5. Due to their hard, calcified nature, encrusting coralline red seaweeds have several economic uses. In modern medical science, coralline algae are used to prepare dental bone implants. Coralline rubble (maerl) is used in calcium mineral supplements, as soil pH conditioners, in the filtration of acidic drinking water, and as food additives for livestock. Coralline algae are commonly used as “live rock” in the marine aquarium industry, and in many tropical communities, coralline rock is used as building stones.

12 edible indigenous South African plants

Edible indigenous plants offer a great way to eat well and garden sustainably. We share some great tips on indigenous plants that you can easily grow and harvest in your garden for medicinal remedies and exciting culinary experiences – courtesy of Good Hope Garden Nursery. Written by Roushanna Gray & Gael Gray

We have a treasure trove of edible and medicinal plants within our rich plant kingdom in South Africa. It is important to know what part of the plant to use and how it can be used for culinary concoctions; some are edible only in certain seasons or after certain preparations. Below is a selection of some of our favourites!

Planting these indigenous edibles into your garden gives you easy access to fresh flavours that, at the same time, can handle our harsh South African climate as they are water-wise and easier to maintain than your classic herb or veg. This makes it much simpler to connect to your food and the rhythm of nature in a fresh and wild way and enjoy playing with new recipes using these ingredients picked on your doorstep. The local birds, bees and insects will be grateful, too.

1. Pelargonium culallatum (wild malva)
– The leaves of this plant diffused into a tea can be used to treat stomach disorders.

– Bruised leaves can be used as a poultice for sores and wounds, and a rolled-up fresh leaf inserted in the ear (not too deep) can reduce earache.

– Add the leaves to your bath for a fragrant, relaxing soak to relieve tired muscles.

– Tickle your salads and baked goods pink with the flowers of the wild malva.

Edible indigenous plants © Werner Deblitz — © Werner Deblitz

This showy pelargonium grows to a height of one metre and flowers beautifully in post-fire years. It grows best in a sunny position in well-drained soil and looks best if pruned after flowering to prevent it from getting leggy.

Edible indigenous plants © Roushanna Gray — © Roushanna Gray

2. Pelargonium tomentosum (peppermint-scented pelargonium)
Peppermint pelargonium is high in essential oils.

– Use the flowers in salads and to decorate cakes.

– Simmer leaves in milk, strain and use in baking or as teas.

– Makes a delicious flavouring for ice cream.

– The leaves can be crushed and used to soothe bruises by adding the leaves to your bath or as a poultice.

Edible indigenous plants © Claire Mcnulty — © Claire Mcnulty

A shady position, compost and a bit of water in summer will keep this fast-growing pelargonium happy. One plant can cover 0.75m².

Edible indigenous plants © Kate Higgs — © Kate Higgs

3. Coleonema pulchellum (confetti bush)
– Traditionally used as a deodoriser, add this to potpourri

– This aromatic herb can be used in sweet or savoury dishes – strip the little leaves off the stems as with thyme.

Edible indigenous plants © Gabrielle Holmes — © Gabrielle Holmes

Known as false buchu, this lovely shrub grows to one metre or more in height and width. They like well-drained soil and a bit of compost, and they prefer a sunny position, although they do tolerate light shade. As with all fynbos, a mulch of compost or bark is beneficial as it keeps the shallow root system cool. It responds well to pruning.

4. Oxalis pes-caprae (wild sorrel)
The whole plant is edible, and it has a nice, sharp taste. It is sour due to the oxalic acid content, so don’t overeat.

– The flowers can be used in salads, and the heart-shaped leaves can be used as a garnish in salads and dips.

– The stalks and roots can be eaten raw or cooked in milk. Traditionally oxalis is used as an ingredient in ‘waterblommetjie stew’ and as a salt substitute.

Edible indigenous plants — © Roushanna Gray

We all take this lovely spring flower for granted. It occurs naturally in the Western Cape and doesn’t have to be planted. It regrows from little underground corms as soon as the rains start. It responds well to a bit of compost and a sunny position, although a bit of shade doesn’t stop them from flowering. They die down at the end of spring.

5. Artemesia afra (African wormwood)
– The wormwood is used medicinally to treat fever, colds, flu, sore throats, coughs, asthma, pneumonia and headaches.

– The bruised leaves can be used as a poultice for sores and wounds, and a rolled-up fresh leaf inserted in the ear (not too deep) can also help earache.

– The leaves have a very strong flavour, so use sparingly, but it makes a great addition to iced tea and herbal drinks.

– Crush for a beautiful flavour addition to cocktails.

This hardy shrub has delicate-looking foliage and can be used effectively in a herbaceous border. It is easy to grow, drought resistant and responds well to being composted. It should be pruned hard after flowering to keep it looking good. Excellent garden plant.

6. Carissa macrocarpa (num-num)
The beautiful berries of the num-num can be eaten as a fruit as they are very high in vitamin C and pectin.

– Excellent for making jam and preserves.

– They impart a gorgeous ruby-red hue to syrups and cordials.

This reasonably slow-growing summer rainfall coastal shrub grows best in nutrient-rich soil. It is often used as a windbreak or a security hedge plant but also stands very well on its own. It is drought-resistant and grows up to two metres. The num-num has lovely white flowers in spring and summer, followed by delicious fruit.

7. Tulbachia violacea (wild garlic)
The whole plant is edible.

– The flowers can be used in salads and as a garnish.

– The leaves can be used like chives or as an insect repellent.

– The roots have a very pungent garlic flavour (so use them sparingly) and can be used like regular garlic. They are particularly great in stews and roasts.

– A tea made from the roots or leaves is good for coughs and colds, and it has similar medicinal properties to regular garlic.

This excellent border plant has bluish-green leaves. It flowers profusely if watered through the summer months with attractive mauve flowers. It is easy to grow and is reported to keep moles away. It occurs naturally along the south coast.

8. Jasminum multipartitum (many-petalled jasmine)
This wonderful perfume-scented, delicate white star flower is used cosmetically and in potpourri.

– Use the flowers in salads, baking, teas or as a flavouring.

– Makes a beautiful garnish but discolours quickly, so it has to be used fresh and fast.

This plant has two forms – a scrambling shrub and a creeper. Both have beautifully scented large white jasmine flowers with a pink reverse from August to November. They are naturally widespread in summer rainfall areas. They will grow in sun or semi-shade and can tolerate wind.

9. Carpobrotus edulis (sour figs)
– The succulent leaves are excellent for skin problems like sunburn, bee and blue bottle stings, rashes, cold sores and insect bites.

– Chew on the leaves for sore throat relief.

– The fruits have a tamarind-tasting juicy seed centre and are used to make jams, chutneys and sauces.

– The pink flowers produce a sweeter-tasting fruit than the yellow flowers.

This fast-growing succulent ground-cover flowers from August to October. The large flowers are yellow but turn pink with age. It is widespread in the south Western Cape, where it is used as a pioneer plant to hold banks and exposed sand.

10. Mentha longifolia (balderjan)
– Use medicinally as a tea for stomach disorders as this plant has calming properties similar to exotic mint.

– Suitable for flavouring in baking, jams, syrups and salads.

– Can be used as regular mint for culinary uses.

This easy-to-grow herb is found naturally from the Cape to Lesotho. It grows in damp areas in sun and light shade.

11. Salvia africana lutea (aromatic sage)

– This sage can be used medicinally as a tea for coughs, colds and stomach ailments.

– A delicious herb in cooking as it works well with veg and pasta dishes, chicken, sauces, stews and roasts. Add a sprig and fish it out later, as it imparts a delicious flavour but is bitter to eat.

– Dry the leaves and store them in a glass jar in your spice cupboard or add them to a salt mix.

– Use the flowers as a garnish in salads.

It is a hardy coastal shrub and grows in sandy coastal soils. It forms a good windbreak and is an excellent pioneer plant. It is covered in orange blooms with darker bracts in the early spring.

Salvia africana lutea — © Roushanna Gray

12. Agathosma apiclata (garlic buchu)
It possesses a strong garlic scent and is high in essential oils.

– Adds a garlic flavour to cooking and baking.

– Good for flavouring vinegar and oils.

This metre-high, hardy shrub grows in coastal dunes and limestone soils of the Southern Cape, giving the ‘holiday’ smell to the Knysna area. It prefers a sunny position and is covered in white flowers in late winter.

PLEASE NOTE: Good Hope Gardens Nursery and Veld and Sea cannot take any responsibility for any adverse effects of using plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.

Extinct, then rediscovered – the ‘little violins’

Extinct, then rediscovered. Lachenalia mathewsii stands quite tall at 10-20 cm and produces beautiful bright yellow flowers in a spike with a spicy scent that attracts honeybees. The entire genus of Lachenalia is endemic to South Africa. They are commonly known as “viooltjies” (the Afrikaans word for ‘ little violin’) as they look like little violins. Written by: Dewidine van der Colff, Botanical Society employed Red List scientist with the CREW programme

Almost extinct. Lachenalia mathewsii in full flower with golden glowing yellow flowers. Picture by Ismail Ebrahim. — *Lachenalia mathewsii* in full flower with golden yellow flowers ©Ismail Ebrahim

Lachenalia mathewsii, once thought to be extinct, was rediscovered in 1983. Currently, the species is only known to exist on two sites – one on a farmer’s property where it is potentially protected, and the other on municipal grounds just outside Vredenburg where there might be development plans in the near future.

This species is currently listed as endangered according to the IUCN Red Listing system. Its main threats have been identified by Custodians of Rare and Endangered Wildflowers (CREW) volunteers visiting the sites and collecting threat and population data of this precious plant. The main threats are habitat loss as a result of potential development, habitat degradation due to grazing pressure, and fire exclusion which is needed to rejuvenate the species.

Previously, Lachenalia mathewsii‘s sunny disposition could be seen within seasonally moist Cape inland salt pans in Saldanha granite strandveld but the species has gone extinct in all of its historic localities.

Urgent attention should be given to Lachenalia mathewsii, and searches for more populations might ease its plight. However, the CREW project manager, Ismail Ebrahim, and our dearest volunteers, Oom Koos and his wife Tannie Elise, have been searching for years without much success. Our CREW FoTH (Friends Of Tygerberg Hills) team has also been very busy surveying the area without much luck. We hope that future searches may yield some fruit, however, based on the available suitable habitat, the hope of finding more sub-populations are very low.

Almost extinct. Oom Koss Claassens (CREW volunteer) explain how to locate Lachenalia mathewsii to Vatishwa Zikishe a CREW staff member. Picture by Ismail Ebrahim. — Oom Koss Claassens (CREW volunteer) explains how to locate *Lachenalia mathewsii* to Vatishwa Zikishe, a CREW staff member ©Ismail Ebrahim

CREW volunteers searching for Lachenalia. mathewsii plants on municipal ground west of Vredenburg, Western Cape, South Africa. Picture by Ismail Ebrahim. — CREW volunteers searching for *Lachenalia mathewsii* plants on municipal ground west of Vredenburg, Western Cape, South Africa ©Ismail Ebrahim

We aim to ignite the passion for conserving the little bits of natural veld that still remain within areas of high agricultural activities. For the future of biodiversity conservation and economic growth in South Africa, we really need to find the perfect balance as this relationship is unfortunately not a mutual one. We need nature more than nature needs us, so we need to conserve these precious species, their natural habitats and ecosystems so that one day future generations may experience the violins of the veld.

Almost extinct. Mass flowering display of Lachenalia mathewsii next to agricultural fields growing in Cape inland Salt pans in Saldanha Granite Strandveld. Picture by Ismail Ebrahim. — Mass flowering display of *Lachenalia mathewsii* next to agricultural fields growing in Cape inland Salt pans in Saldanha Granite Strandveld. © Ismail Ebrahim.

Many of the species of plants found in the Cape floristic regions are facing a similar threat, and public awareness is a vital part of protecting our precious plants, such as the Lachenalia mathewsii.

The Botanical Society of South Africa is a long-standing partner of CREW and many of our members volunteer with CREW. Become a member and get involved in citizen science.

Zimbabwe elephant hunter identified as German mogul Rainer Schorr

Leading animal rights group PETA has named the man they believe to be the German hunter who allegedly paid nearly £40,000 to shoot one of the largest remaining large-tusked elephants in Africa in a legal hunt. Several sources subsequently named the trophy hunter Rainer Schorr, a German businessman.

According to the Daily Telegraph and numerous other media sites, PETA in Germany offered a €1,000 reward to anyone who could identify the trophy hunter who killed what is thought to be the biggest elephant killed in Africa for 30 years and one of a dwindling remaining population of ‘super tuskers’. Photos of the dead elephant, the professional hunter and Rainer Schorr were circulated widely online at the time (see below).

In a case that echoes the furore that erupted after Cecil the lion was shot by an American dentist, 55-year-old Mr Schorr allegedly and, according to The Daily Telegraph, paid US$60,000 (£39,000) for a permit to hunt a large bull elephant.

The Daily Telegraph claimed that a former friend of Schorr recognised him from the photo of him posing with the body of the huge elephant. The man, who ended his eight-year friendship with Schorr more than a year ago over a business disagreement, said he was told a few weeks ago by a mutual friend that the businessman was on a hunting trip in Zimbabwe.

The former friend said that hunting was Mr Schorr’s “big passion” and that the entrepreneur partly owned a hunting farm in Namibia.

According to the Daily Telegraph, the former friend added: “On the other side, you have to be realistic; when that guy pays for a hunt, which is legal in Zimbabwe, you do nothing wrong according to national laws.”

This iconic elephant, one of the largest of a dwindling population of ‘super tuskers’, with tusks weighing in at 121 and 123lb, was shot on 7 October in a private hunting concession in the Malipati safari area in Masvingo Province. Rainer Schorr also allegedly killed other species during this hunting trip in Masvingo, including leopard and buffalo.

When approached by the Daily Telegraph, Rainer Schorr said: “I don’t know what you are talking about. You have the wrong person.” He claimed he was at a trade fair from 5-8 October in Munich, southern Germany when the hunt took place. He refused to provide evidence backing up his claim.

In Zimbabwe, hunting is legally permitted in certain areas, and the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority has said that the Malipati safari area, where the elephant was shot, is being leased out to the Chiredzi Rural District council under “arrangements where communities benefit from revenue generated from wildlife-based projects including hunting in the area”.

“Such hunts go a long way in assisting communities in the surrounding area,” said the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority.

It added that the elephant population of the Gonarezhou-Malipati complex was estimated at 11,452 elephants according to a 2014 aerial survey and that the Malipati safari area is allocated an annual sustainable quota and hunting permit.

Editorial note: More than four years after the publishing of this article, a lawyer claiming to represent Rainer Schorr contacted Africa Geographic and threatened legal action if this article was not removed, claiming that the trophy hunter in the photo is not his client. As a matter of courtesy Africa Geographic CEO Simon Espley temporarily removed this article from the public domain, while conducting further research amongst his networks as to the accuracy of the lawyer’s claims. On receiving irrefutable evidence that the hunter was indeed Schorr, Espley contacted Schorr’s lawyer and advised him of his findings. He gave the lawyer a period of time to produce evidence backing up his claim, advising him that in the absence of such evidence the article would again be made available to the public. The lawyer did not respond, and Espley subsequently made this article available again to the public.

18 000 Mauritian flying foxes: to cull or to treasure?

Islands are known to have high levels of endemicity with many unique species found only within their small areas. Madagascar, the land of the dodo, and several Indian Ocean islands such as Seychelles and Mauritius collectively form one of the 25 most biologically rich areas on earth. Mauritian flying foxes, found in Mauritius, are one such species. Yet it may soon join dodos on the extinct list. Written by: Fabiola Monty

Once occupying three islands in the southwestern part of the Indian Ocean, it is now found only in Mauritius due to habitat loss, cyclones and hunting. It is a threatened species that can play an important role in regenerating the severely degraded Mauritian native forests.

However, due to claims of economic losses from fruit growers, and assumptions that the population of the species has increased dramatically, a decision was made by the Mauritian government at the beginning of October 2015 to cull 20% of the bat’s global population. Despite local and international NGOs providing scientific evidence that this culling will not only be catastrophic for this threatened species but will also not solve the problem, around 18,000 Mauritian flying foxes are targeted and will soon be shot.

endemic-mauritius-flying-fox — © Jacques de Speville

We await the world’s response to the killing of 18,000 individuals of an endemic and threatened species for no justifiable reasons. Join the Campaign to help save the Mauritian flying fox.

endemic-bat-mauritius — © Jacques de Speville

mauritian-fruit-bat — © Jacques de Speville

Where did all the penguins go?

Penguins are in trouble – we all know that. But the extent of the population decline became clear when I attended a talk by Dr Stephen van der Spuy, executive director of SANCCOB. Written by: Georgina Lockwood

There are few things as delightful as watching a clumsy African/jackass penguin running like a schoolboy with his pants down, then transform into a master swimmer with torpedo-like agility as it dives into the ocean. The African penguin is such a character that it even has its own day – African Penguins Awareness Day.

I was at SANCCOB’s General Meeting at the Two Ocean’s Aquarium, learning about the charismatic penguins that attract 650,000 tourists to the sleepy coastal village of Simon’s Town and what SANCCOB is doing to save them – treating an average of 1,500 penguins in a non-oil-spill year.

The biological definition of a colony is: organisms of the same species, in this case, African penguins, living closely together to benefit from the safety found in numbers. Colonies of these suited-up little birds used to exist all along the southern African coastline. In the 1900s, it was estimated that there were between three and four million penguins – now, that’s a happy and healthy ‘colony’.

By 2014 there were only 19,000 breeding pairs dotted across South Africa, with another estimated 6,000 in Namibia – that’s not many, is it?

Penguins © Michael John Nicoll — Penguins at Dassen in 1908 © Michael John Nicoll

Penguins © Mikkel Houmøller — The African penguin colony at Boulders Beach in Simon’s Town in 2009© Mikkel Houmøller

Sadly, overfishing, habitat loss, oil spills and predation by domestic and man-introduced animals pose the biggest threats to the African penguin’s survival. The population in South Africa is now restricted to areas around Simons Town, Robben Island, Dyer’s Island, Stoney Point and Dassen Island, with 60% of the birds occurring on St Croix Island and Bird Island near Cape St. Francis.

What is SANCCOB doing to help? In 2006 SANCCOB embarked on a Chick Bolstering Project – treating between 800 to 900 penguin chicks per year and roughly 500 just between October and January that were abandoned by their parents in moulting season – a time during which the adults shed and regrow their tuxedos and are unable to feed. This is a natural occurrence, but as so few penguins are left, human intervention has been deemed essential for the aquatic bird’s survival. And the good news is, it’s working! A recent study has revealed that hand-reared chicks survive just as well as wild ones.

SANCCOB has treated 95,000 oiled, injured, abandoned, and ‘at risk’ African penguins and other seabirds since 1968 in Cape Town and Cape St. Francis, and in my humblest of opinions, this is a charity worth supporting.

Rescuing Beatrice the baby aardvark

What would you get if you mixed the body parts of a kangaroo, horse, rabbit and hyena and then, just for fun, added massive fingernails? Certainly, one of the most unique-looking animals in the world – the aardvark. Written by: Maria Diekmann, founder and director of REST

This fascinating creature has rarely been studied. Few are kept in captivity due to their nocturnal behaviour, difficulties with an artificial diet and the need for large foraging areas. Their teeth, located towards the back of their mouth, are susceptible to infection in captivity, but no one is exactly sure why. While found in most ranges of southern Africa and not listed as threatened or endangered, many believe the species is declining.

The Rare & Endangered Species Trust (REST) in Namibia is preparing a young female aardvark for release back into the wild. Caught in a snare and found on a private farm, she was close to death when given to REST. Once her wounds had been cleaned, the long task of healing and gaining weight began.

Beatrice, or “B’ as she has been nicknamed, is amazing. As a young female, she only weighs about 45lb (20kg) – adults can reach 143lb (65kg). She sleeps approximately 18 hours a day, and REST supplements her natural foraging with a milkshake of food, cereals, grains, fruit and honey, both in the morning and noon. She wakes up between 6pm and 8pm and is taken out to forage naturally in the bush in the same habitat where she was found. Initially, a soft rope leash was attached, but for a few weeks now, B has been walking unleashed with me.

Fortunately, we have years of experience following released Cape pangolins in the bush, so my staff and students are used to walking silently behind a creature late into the night.

Having never rehabilitated an aardvark before, I was slightly concerned initially. However, my experience with Cape pangolins prepared me for the habits and needs of a similar, mainly nocturnal, ant-eating species. Like the pangolin, the information about aardvarks is conflicting and often wrong – at least in the region where I work. Both species prefer ants to termites, and the tongue of the aardvark is much thicker but shorter than that of a pangolin, only about 6-8 inches long. While a pangolin mainly uses its long, narrow, sticky tongue to attract and capture ants, the aardvark digs much deeper and laps up the ants. During these tongue licks, they consume massive amounts of dirt and small rocks. These small pebbles are believed to help with digestion and are then chewed for up to 10 minutes with a crunching sound that would displease any dentist.

Beatrice has taught me so much about aardvarks. If she represents the species, they are one of the gentlest alive as long as they do not feel threatened. Her nose, which she pushes into the hard ground to sniff out ants before digging, is as soft as velvet, and her powerful front feet have nails five times larger than humans and can move a foot of soil in less than a minute. Her back legs are used for covering her faeces and walking, which she does with a long sloping back like a hyena.

I have contacted a manufacturer of tracking units so that she can be tracked when released – to date, other researchers have used an implanted radio device, so I am gathering information on the best way forward. By Christmas 2015, Beatrice should be walking free. She will be monitored for health and safety, and I am confident that after months of rehab in the same area, she will do fine on her own.

PALF’s dogs sniff out illegal bushmeat

The town of Ouesso lies in the heart of the rainforest in northern Congo. Spider webs of logging roads emanate from the settlement, dissected by the ‘forest highway’ of the Sangha River. The town’s location and accessibility from the forest make it a hub for the illegal wildlife trade. Bushmeat is openly sold in the markets with little regulation.

Although the spectacle of grimacing monkey carcasses and hacked crocodile tails on display at market stalls is an alarming sight to be confronted with, bushmeat has been an important source of protein for rural communities within the forest for centuries. However, today bushmeat usage has evolved from the small-scale, local consumption of the past. It has developed into large-scale exploitation with trade, shifting to the lucrative business of transporting the meat to cities for consumption by the urban elite as a delicacy, thus rendering the industry completely unsustainable.

The transportation of large amounts of bushmeat away from rural forest communities to urban areas is illegal in the Republic of Congo. At the end of 2014, the governor of Sangha province issued a statement to reinforce the application of these environmental laws – an important move for the region’s wildlife and its rural people whose livelihoods have come under threat due to the greedy exploitation of their primary food source.

In August 2015, the annual Congolese Independence Day celebration took place in Ouesso. Thousands of people travelled north from the more populated south of Congo to attend the Independence Day celebrations. The PALF (Project for the Application of Law for Fauna in the Republic of Congo) sniffer dogs were posted on the main road out of Ouesso to search the mass exodus of vehicles from the north during the days following the 15th.

2. Vehicles line up at Yengo-Mambili check point. A team of eco-guards from Odzala-Koukoua National Park permanently mans Yengo-Mambili control post. The boom gate is the only permanent wildlife product focused control post on the main road from northern Congo to the urban areas in the south. — Vehicles line up at Yengo-Mambili checkpoint. A team of eco-guards from Odzala-Koukoua National Park permanently man Yengo-Mambili control post. The boom gate is the only permanent wildlife product control post on the main road from northern Congo to the urban areas in the south.

3. An African palm civet (Nandinia binotata) found in a vehicle heading south to Brazzaville. — An African palm civet (Nandinia binotata) found in a vehicle heading south to Brazzaville.

4. Three confiscated crocodiles keenly await their release as the team continues to search the constant flow of vehicles passing through the control post. — Three confiscated crocodiles keenly await their release as the team continues to search the constant flow of vehicles passing through the control post.

The dogs continue working late into the night when there is a much higher chance of illegal products being transported.

Bushmeat — Buses loaded with luggage and passengers are searched. This requires encouraging all the passengers to exit the vehicle and wait beyond the barrier while the dogs search the bus’s interior.

Read more about dogs working in Africa: Conservation’s Best Friend

The Cape Winelands with a difference

A visit to the Cape Winelands is a great way to spend a sunny Saturday, a long weekend or a couple of nights tacked on to a holiday in Cape Town. And recently, I was privileged enough to spend four glorious Cap Classique-filled days in the area.

However, even after a very long weekend, I felt like I hadn’t even skimmed the surface of the many wonders the Cape Winelands offers.

With so many places to stay, wines to drink and fresh produce to stuff into my mouth, choosing which farms to visit was a tough decision and already had me reaching for the nearest glass of Pinotage. I wanted to see the farms that cared about what they gave back to the soil, the people and the environment.

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This treading lightly approach didn’t mean that I visited strictly sustainable or organic establishments, but simply that I chose to visit wine estates that are both making a difference and trying to offer something different.

honeycomb-at-bablyonstoren — Beekeeping not only saves bees, but it also means a fantastic supply of raw honey ©Babylonstoren

My first stop was Boschendal, where a thoughtful dinner in my charming room went down a treat after a long day at work; especially when I spotted the bottle of Blanc de Noir reflecting the sun setting over the Simonsberg Mountains.

piggyback-simonsberg-babylonstoren — A piggyback against the stunning backdrop of the Simonsberg Mountains ©Babylonstoren

Boschendal was the perfect start to my Cape Winelands trip, considering that the first malva pudding ever served in a restaurant was rumoured to have been on that farm in the summer of 1979. And years after that famous dish touched the lips of awe-struck diners, I arrived on Heritage Day just in time for the farm’s 330th birthday bash! Boschendal has an admirable minimum food-miles policy of growing as much of the restaurant’s produce on the farm as possible – a pasture-fed black Angus cattle was on the spit that day, with no packaging or antibiotics included. A herb and veggie garden lies in front of the Werf Restaurant, and any food not locally grown or reared is sourced from sustainable small producers in the area.

cattle-amongst-the-vines — Pasture-fed steer wander amidst the vines ©Boschendal

From Boschendal, it was an easy meander down the road to quirky Babylonstoren, where Gundula, the resident gardener, introduced me to her pride and joy. As she strolled through the garden of edible greens in her zig-zag skirt and Pippy Longstocking socks, she spoke of how the team at Babylonstoren had nurtured a virtual wasteland into what is now the heart of the farm. This seasonal wonderland is home to laughing ducks that may waddle behind the occasional bride but whose real job is to act as an organic pest control by chomping up snails. An insect hotel also ensures that the organic produce from the garden is as fresh on your plate as it was on the bush.

Working-ducks-cross-the-bridge-to-the-vineyards,-cape-winelands-babylonstoren — Hi ho, hi ho, it’s off to work we go! Ducks file off for a great day’s work of chomping snails ©Babylonstoren

breakfast-at-babylonstoren — Farm-fresh juices at Babylonstoren ©Janine Avery

room-service-at-the-insect-hotel — Room service at the insect hotel, which provides a home for pollinators and pest controllers ©Babylonstoren

After an early wake-up call followed by a stretch of yoga in the blissful Babylonstoren spa, I left behind the traditional Cape Dutch farms and moved on to the modern setting of Leopard’s Leap. While I indulged there in a Culinaria Food and Wine Pairing, it dawned on me that the magic of the Cape Winelands is thanks to the passion of its people. Creating wine is an art form – each grape is lovingly cared for, each wine tenderly nurtured, and every bite of food is that wine’s soulmate – bringing out the best. And La Motte, the sister farm of Leopard’s Leap, also adds another passion to the mix with a museum that features a rotating gallery of local art and is dedicated to Jacob Hendrick Pierneef, whose famous linocut designs adorn the estate’s Pierneef collection of premium wines.

La Motte is also a proud champion of the Biodiversity and Wine Initiative (now called WWF Conservation Champions) – a collaboration project between the wine industry and the conservation sector that recognises farms leading the way in production integrity, environmental sustainability and conservation.

leopards-leap-wine-barrels — A treasure cove of divine wine ©Leopard’s Leap Family Vineyards

This passion for the natural environment was evident in the Cape Winelands, with nearly 90% of South African wine producers now displaying the Integrity and Sustainability Seal. At Leopard’s Leap, faces lit up at the mere mention of the Cape Leopard Trust, of which they are a sponsor. Jeannie and Anita are doing great work in the Cape Winelands and beyond to preserve over 60 Cape leopards that call the area home. A mother leopard with small cubs has even been spotted just up the slopes from the vineyards.

After all the food, a short nap was appreciated in a shiny bedroom complete with feathered lamps at Jordan Wine Estate – a far cry from the famous Cape Dutch gables but a great example of how the traditional and modern have interwoven themselves throughout the area. At Jordan, the natural environment gives each wine its unique appeal, and every wine has its own story. The one that stood out for me was the chameleon range, inspired by the Cape dwarf chameleon. Proceeds from the wine even go to the Jordan Chameleon Bursary for the conservation of these cute little creatures. I had the pleasure of tasting more of these wines at Jordan Restaurant, which has been voted one of the country’s top ten restaurants by Eat Out, and is where the famous George Jardin uses local ingredients to create delicious masterpieces.

Cape Winelands — Shopfronts in Stellenbosch, a town steeped in history and a fascinating culture ©Janine Avery

From Jordan, it was on to the ever-popular Spier Wine Estate, exploring the farm on a Segway tour and indulging at Eight Restaurant. Eight offers a farm-to-table experience with an inventive tapas-style menu allowing you to choose from various delights. At the same time, I took in the nifty recycled fixtures, such as the 10,000 flower-shaped roof fittings made from old milk bottles.

My last day brought a tour of Stellenbosch by bicycle, courtesy of Adventure Shop. This low carbon emission tourism experience saw me weaving through town, learning more about Stellenbosch’s heritage and Cape Dutch influence. It was then time for a final spot of wine tasting as I cycled from farm to farm while soaking up the breathtaking scenery. To round off the day nicely, we visited the Cape Winelands region’s most picturesque tasting room at Stark-Condé. We enjoyed hand-crafted chocolates with fine wines at Lanzerac. The cycle back allowed me to work off the fantastic food and wine from the week, and while I stopped to give my tired legs a break, I thought about how lucky I am to live within easy reach of an area so rich in history, culture and culinary delights.

And now, the next time I pick up a bottle of my favourite Sauvignon Blanc, I will know that it has its own story.

My top picks of what to do:

Go horse riding at Boschendal
Take a ride on a Clydesdale – the working (but not too hard) horses. These happy plodders will take you around the farm, passing the pasture-fed Angus cattle while you take in the surrounding views of the Drakenstein Valley. With almost half of the farm’s land set aside to conserve the fauna and flora of the Cape Floral Kingdom, overnight guests are encouraged to explore by mountain bike or on foot.

Vineyard and cellar tours at Jordan
Jordan Wine Estate is a bit off the beaten track, but getting there is worth the extra effort. The tour of the estate’s vineyards by Gary Jordan allowed me to take in the fabulous location of Jordan with its 360° views of the Winelands, oceans and even Table Mountain. Finish the tour in the estate’s underground cellar and appreciate how their Chardonnay is made – with a glass of it in hand.

Segway tours at Spier
Enjoy the 300 hectares of biodynamic farming, where mobile chicken coops and pasture-reared Angus cattle are used to fertilise vineyards. Pass by the free-range chickens and whizz past the wastewater treatment plant where all of the farm’s wastewater is recycled, which means that Spier is not even batting an eyelid even after the Cape’s driest winter since before I was born.

My top picks of where to stay:

Boschendal
Boschendal offers several accommodation options – you and ten friends can even spend time in Cecil John Rhodes’ holiday home playing bowls, dining under the stars and swimming in your own eco-pool. Franschhoek, Paarl and Stellenbosch are all within a 15-minute drive, making Boschendal the perfect base for your ultimate Winelands getaway.

Spier
Spier is an excellent choice for families. There is so much to do at the farm, from picnicking with homemade deli treats to exploring the educational protea garden or visiting the Eagle Encounters rehabilitation centre. It is also a hop, skip and a jump away from many of Stellenbosch’s other great farms, markets, restaurants and shops.

Find out about the Cape Winelands as part of your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

children-having-fun-at-spier-wine-farm — Fun for all the family ©Spier Wine Farm

My top picks of where to eat:

Jordan Restaurant
This is the locally sourced strawberry on top of Stellenbosch’s culinary collection. The menu changes daily and is prepared by a team of seven expert chefs in an open kitchen. As some of the last guests to leave, we had the privilege of eavesdropping on the multi-talented George Jardin as he planned the menu for the next day, ordering the freshest ingredients from his suppliers – a process which takes at least an hour and a half after the last guest has gone to bed. This results in the freshest, most exquisite four-course meal, and I suggest you indulge in their food and wine pairing menu, then skip the sweet stuff for a trip into the cheese room, where I selected a fantastic array of South Africa’s top cheeses to round off my meal.

Babel
The menu at Babylonstoren’s signature restaurant changes daily according to what vegetables and fruit have been gathered from the garden. The fresh papaya that Gundula discovered on my garden tour undoubtedly found its way into the generous three-course wonder offered at Babel that evening.

Leopard’s Leap
Relaxed rotisserie lunches with wine cocktails are offered at Leopard’s Leap from Wednesday to Sunday. Alternatively, their cooking classes often result in full bellies being supported by wobbly legs that need the help of newfound friends to find the door when it’s time to go home. The food and wine pairing is an intimate experience that is said only to get better the more times you partake!

Pierneef à la Motte
The Pierneef à la Motte restaurant overlooks a gorgeous pond, and diners can enjoy meals made from biologically farm-grown produce. The farm shop also sells this produce and a variety of freshly-baked bread – including a Shiraz loaf. However, the highlight for me was the Winelands Tea Experience, where homemade confectionaries were paired with my gorgeous crème caramel tea selection. Not to mention that the Van der Hum truffle was to wine for!

Lemurs of Madagascar – photo gallery

For the last 88 million years, life on Madagascar has been on its own – creating an island of evolutionary oddities and diverse safari travel experiences. Sometimes referred to as a “Noah’s Ark” or the “eighth continent” due to its geographic isolation and high levels of endemism, the island is home to over 110 species of lemurs.

In this gallery, we celebrate some of these lemurs:

Black and white ruffed lemur ©Alison Buttigieg

Ring-tailed lemur ©Alison Buttigieg

Crowned lemur ©Alison Buttigieg

Verreaux’s sifaka ©Alison Buttigieg

Indri lemur ©Alison Buttigieg

Red-fronted brown lemur ©Alison-Buttigieg

Ring-tailed lemur mother and baby ©Alison Buttigieg

Diademed sifaka ©Alison Buttigieg

White-footed sportive lemur ©Alison Buttigieg

Grey mouse lemur ©Alison Buttigieg

More about lemurs

The IUCN currently recognizes 107 species of lemurs, but their classification is an ongoing process that incorporates new knowledge and research on a regular basis. The lemurs of Madagascar have evolved with the island, influencing the plant life, and filling every available niche to for an astoundingly diverse superfamily of multitudinous shapes and sizes.

Unravelling the history of the animal occupants of Madagascar has proved somewhat complicated for scientists because, despite the existence of various dinosaur fossils, there are almost no fossil records from around 66 million years ago to about 26,000 years ago. However, through a series of complex genetic studies, researchers believe that rather than already being present when Madagascar broke away, the ancestors of modern lemurs arrived sometime after it achieved its geographic isolation, probably between 50 and 60 million years ago. Since then, the family has evolved in a wide variety of diverse primates whose closest relatives are bushbabies (galagos), lorises and pottos. Read more about lemurs here.

More about Madagascar

Southern & central Madagascar

Northern Madagascar

Western Madagascar

Eastern Madagsacar

Find out about your next African safari – what, where and when. Also, find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

About the photographer

ALISON BUTTIGIEG is a Maltese IT Consultant and self-taught Wildlife Photographer. She loves spending time in the wilderness – especially if it happens to be in Africa – photographing the wild animals inhabiting the wilderness areas. I

For more of Alison’s images, go to www.alisonbuttigieg.com
Alison’s Facebook Page: www.facebook.com/AlisonButtigiegPhotography

Elephants held hostage in Laikipia

It started with a phone call. The man on the other end of the line reported seven elephants stuck in the mud on the community side of the 164km West Laikipia fence near Pesi. The news was not promising – we needed to make a plan – quickly!

Word had already reached the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS), and they were on their way to the scene – a two-hour drive from Nanyuki, where Space for Giants (SFG) offices are located. We jumped in a vehicle and headed into the bush.

The story changed as we neared the scene, getting hopelessly lost on the narrow tracks between maize fields. The elephants were not stuck – the community was holding them hostage.

The moment we reached the dam, we were mobbed by several hundred local community members. We spotted the KWS senior warden for Laikipia County trying to placate a group of 50 men surrounding him. He had his hands full.

We pushed through the crowd to reach the dam’s edge and assess the situation. One boy of about ten years of age stopped us, “elephants eat my maize,” he mumbled in broken English.

Now we understood. These seven males, all known fence-breaking elephants to SFG researchers, had broken through the West Laikipia fence that is supposed to separate community land from large-scale ranches, where wildlife is tolerated. The elephants had smashed through the fence, entered the community land and destroyed a large crop of maize. The villagers were furious, understandably so. They had seen their livelihoods destroyed before their eyes. They wanted compensation. They wanted these elephants dead.

Human-elephant conflict in the Laikipia area is amongst the worst in East Africa and probably the most severe in Kenya. In 2007, SFG estimated that elephant crop raiding had cost local communities over US$1 million in lost revenue. These losses are catastrophic.

The KWS rangers had the situation under control – but it felt like a time bomb. You could feel the tension in the air. All the villagers were armed with sticks and machetes, angrily demonstrating at the elephants huddled together in the dam no more than 50 metres away. It would not take much to see this situation erupt into violence and bloodshed.

SFG called in support from our partners at Lewa Conservancy and Ol Pejeta Conservancy and chartered a support helicopter from Tropic Air – these elephants would have to be pushed from the dam. Soon a helicopter emerged over the horizon.

The helicopter’s arrival sent the crowd into a frenzy – it was there to help the elephants and not them. The KWS did well to control the crowd. But their increasing frustration was now aimed at the elephants, eager to leave and approaching the dam’s edge. The villagers mobilised themselves and set all the vegetation surrounding the dam on fire. A gang of 30-50 men started throwing stones. The crowd screamed and whistled. The elephants were trapped – and they knew it. They retreated and sought another way out, only to receive the same treatment. The panicked elephants huddled together in the centre of the dam, unsure of what to do as smoke filled the air and stones splashed around them.

There was no way of stopping the crowd from doing this – by now, they numbered at least 400 – a few rangers with guns would not intimidate them. The helicopter attempted to push them away by flying low overhead, but it only fueled their resistance. It was a standoff.

Suddenly one of the elephants – the one that had been attempting to escape for hours already, made his move. It had had enough. It was showered in stones and sticks as it reached the shallows, fires roaring in the background. It charged into the crowd that scattered before it. We lost sight of it immediately amongst the maize.

The Tropic Air helicopter reacted quickly, and the experienced pilot managed to steer it away from the fleeing crowd and to safety.

The courage of this elephant seemed to infect the three remaining elephants. As the helicopter returned, the police and KWS helped disperse the individuals trying to prevent the elephants from escaping, and the helicopter guided them out of the dam. Nevertheless, the remaining three elephants were in no mood to move. Stubbornly they huddled together and waited for night to fall. Under the cover of darkness, they slipped away unharmed.

The whole incident was bittersweet. There are no winners here. We are delighted all the elephants got away largely unharmed, but this incident illustrates the true state of affairs in Laikipia County. Local communities living side by side with these giants suffer significant losses daily and have little reason to value elephants. When elephants raid their farms, their complaints and requests for compensation fall on deaf ears – when an elephant is in danger, there is a monumental response from both the public and private sectors. The inequalities are all too clear.

The solution?

The rehabilitation of the West Laikipia fence. There has never been a more pertinent example of the need for a fence to separate man and beast. In Laikipia, the peaceful coexistence that we as conservationists strive for depends on a barrier made of wire, posts and 8,000 volts. It may not be pretty – but it works.

Space for Giants is an international conservation charity in Kenya through a local charitable trust with an independent board. SFG also focuses on mitigating human-elephant conflict in Laikipia County, securing space for these giants to roam and training the next generation of conservationists.

Hermanus & the not so False Bay

I am lucky to call Cape Town home because it means I’m able to enjoy the ocean right alongside mountain wilderness, five-star dining enhanced by fine wines, a buzzing art scene and a vibrant nightlife, the ramifications of which can be cured with exceptional coffee found on every street. To leave Cape Town for a holiday seems like madness, but perhaps it’s okay if it’s just for a weekend.

steam-train-fish-hoek — Top: Atlantic Rail’s “Katie” Steams towards Simonstown ©Anton Crone. Middle: Victorian buildings line the main street of Simonstown ©Cape Town Tourism. Bottom: Boulders penguin colony in Simonstown is the protected home of more than 2,000 endangered African penguins ©Mikkel Houmøller

A certain train leaves Cape Town for Simonstown in False Bay every second weekend. Catch it, and you’ll travel back in time – not just because Simonstown clings to a bygone era, but because this train runs on steam. As you chug away from Cape Town, the expanse of False Bay is steadily revealed. Before long, the ocean is almost lapping at the rails, the hiss of the engine marks your passage in time and you eventually arrive, with a steamy shudder, in the 1800s.

Victorian buildings line Simonstown’s streets. With shuttered windows flung open to the bay and naval flags lining the eaves, it’s clearly the ocean upon which this town thrives. A centuries-old naval base gives credence to the old cannons that spike the surrounding hills, and a yacht club lures sailing ships from around the world. Not far from the old town, on the way towards the jagged cliffs of the Cape Peninsula, penguins make their home on protected beaches, and False Bay’s secrets of kelp forests and strange creatures are hidden beneath the waves.

Find out about Cape Town for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.

It’s a wonderful place from which to explore the peninsula, surf the waves of Muizenberg and commune in the antiquarian haunts and coffee shops of nearby Kalk Bay. But don’t miss lunch at The Flagship back in Simonstown. Chef Duncan Doherty is the relaxed and funny host of this unique establishment – more of a delightful home than a lodge and restaurant.

The-Flagship-13-(PREF) — Top: The view over False Bay from the deck of The Flagship. Middle: Chef Duncan Doherty’s fare is inspired by the ocean on his doorstep ©The Flagship. Bottom: The author chats to a Hermanus fisherman while looking out over Walker Bay ©Romy Chevallier.

Nicole-Krummacher-flagship-fish-plate — Top: The view over False Bay from the deck of The Flagship. Middle: Chef Duncan Doherty’s fare is inspired by the ocean on his doorstep ©The Flagship. Bottom: The author chats to a Hermanus fisherman while looking out over Walker Bay ©Romy Chevallier.

Much of his fare comes from the ocean on his doorstep, and although many arrive at his table as strangers, they soon kick their shoes off as friends. I kicked mine off, made some new American friends and stayed the night, anticipating the next leg of my next trip around False Bay on a more modern form of transport.

If motorcycles came with cup holders, I might have taken off immediately, but coffee was enjoyed sitting on Kalk Bay’s vibrant street, gazing alternately at the passersby and the imposing motorcycle that Tyger Valley Harley Davidson had lent me. I couldn’t help comparing it to a steam train because it handled like it was on rails. The size of the bike belies surprisingly nimble handling on the most curvaceous of bends.

Sticking to the coast after Muizenberg, the road skirts along a windswept stretch of beach, making up the deepest cut of False Bay; then, after crawling through Strand and Gordons Bay, you are rewarded with the most scenic stretch of coastal road in South Africa, if not the entire continent. It’s also the most fun. You can’t take a train around the tight turns of Clarence Drive, but on a bike, it becomes a fairground ride enhanced by the sea air washing up from the waves below and the breathtaking views around every bend.

birkenhead-house-Terrace-Sunset — The view from Birkenhead House’s pool deck at sunset ©Birkenhead House.

When the curves run out, you can’t just stop and turn around, no matter how enticing the road. Hermanus is too close to ignore, especially during the whale season, and it’s a perfect base to explore the beautiful Hemel-en-Aarde wine valley just outside Hermanus and commune with the water creatures of Walker Bay.

Birkenhead House is an incredible base, the hotel’s location being the envy of many – on a small cliff-top in Hermanus overlooking Walker Bay, where so many whales come to calve their young.

The unobtrusive entrance gives little away of its wonderful interior. As you descend its three expansive levels, flanked by an enviable collection of contemporary art, the ocean grows larger and larger in your view until you walk through the lounge and stand on the pool deck with the entire bay at your feet. Then a whale waves a flipper in greeting, a chilled glass of wine is put in your hand, and you think, perhaps getting away from Cape Town is something I should do more often.

Practical info

HERMANUS

ivanhoe-whales — Top: ©Ivanhoe. Bottom: ©African Wings

Humpbacks2 — Top: ©Ivanhoe. Bottom: ©African Wings

Whale Watching by boat: Ivanhoe Sea Safaris specialises in boat-based whale watching from June to September. They are located in Gansbaai, just 40 minutes from Hermanus, operating in the waters of Walker Bay which is famous for its whale activity. Ivanhoe also offers eco trips focussing on the wider marine life and private charters.

Whale Watching by plane: African Wings takes off from Stanford, just 25 minutes from Hermanus, giving you a unique perspective on the whales in Walker Bay. Flights take up to three people and vary in duration between 30, 45 and 60 minutes. African Wings also offers a variety of scenic flights and tailor-made experiences.

Wine tasting in the Hemel-en-Aarde valley:

Before reaching Hermanus when driving from Cape Town, turn left onto the R320 Hemel-en-Aarde Road to explore the wines and landscape of this beautiful valley. It’s a refreshing alternative to Franschhoek and Stellenbosch, with a wide selection of award-winning vineyards and restaurants.

Ataraxia’s tasting room, The Wine Lounge, is built as a chapel situated on what must be the most spectacular spot in the valley – an ideal place to sit and contemplate their delicious wines.

Creation Wines has wonderful wine pairings with tapas, brunch pairings and a secret food & wine pairing.

Birkenhead-Clifftop-Panoramic — ©Birkenhead House

Birkenhead House is situated in a quiet part of Hermanus on a cliff-top overlooking the whale haven of Africa. It comprises three houses with 11 eclectically decorated rooms, a spa, gym, and two pools. Stylish luxury contrasts with a laid-back atmosphere that has you feeling completely at home. Everything is at your own pace here, and the staff treat you more like friends than guests.

SIMONSTOWN

Boulders penguin colony:
As part of Table Mountain National Park, Boulders Beach is the protected home of over 2,000 endangered African penguins. But it doesn’t mean you can’t visit to delight in the antics of these characterful birds. From the turnstile entrance, a walkway means you can view the penguins without destroying their natural habitat, and there is also access to a sheltered beach where you and the kids can swim – but don’t touch the penguins.

The penguins are supported by SANCCOB (Southern African Foundation for the Conservation of Coastal Birds)

Simonstown waterside and Naval Museum:

The variety of eclectic shops, restaurants and cafés on Simonstown’s main street and waterside belie the quaint size of this town. You can lose yourself here for a day hunting down that art piece, learning about the history and sampling the tasty wares of its restaurants and cafés.

Hard work like this needs a respite, and the restaurants on the waterfront are a good place to relax for a maritime meal while you watch the sailboats bob in the harbour. Boat excursions to Cape Point and Seal Island can also be arranged here with Boat Company and whale watching excursions in False Bay.

Simonstown Naval Museum:

The town’s naval history goes back to 1810, when the Royal Navy moved its headquarters from Cape Town to Simonstown. It’s a fascinating place to learn about the history of South Africa’s fighting and defensive ships, from the days of sails through to the minesweepers and submarines of World War 2 and beyond. Most surprising are the mapped records of German U-boat activity along South Africa’s coast, making one realise this wasn’t necessarily a quiet theatre of maritime war.

Lunch at The Flagship:

Chef Duncan Doherty hails from the renowned culinary and wine capital of Franschhoek, his connection with wine and food showing in his portfolio of work with Haute Cabriere, Fancourt, The Lanzerac Hotel and the Graham Beck Wine Estate. At The Flagship, he builds your 5-course meal around the best wines, pairing them with local, sustainable seafood in a relaxed atmosphere that makes you feel completely at home. To top it off, four sea-facing suites are waiting for you so you can linger in Simonstown for much longer.

Kalk Bay

This seaside town is the hip sister of Simonstown with restaurants, cafés and shops that range from cool and funky to discerning and chic. Kalk Bay’s harbour is a small, buzzing fish market where fishing boats offload their catch daily. A couple of tasty fish and chip restaurants line the harbour, and the finer fare can be found at Harbour House, with a view over the crashing waves of False Bay. Punctuating the shops of this town are several cafés, each with its own eclectic vibe, but make sure to sample the fare of Lekker, an Afrikaans word meaning “tasty”.

GETTING AROUND

Rent a Harley Davidson:

The Western Cape’s coastal roads are ideal for two-wheel touring – with twisty roads and incredible scenery, there’s no better way to experience it. If it’s for a weekend away, you can fit everything you need on a tourer like the Ultra Limited, which has enough luggage space for you and a passenger.

Let off some steam with Atlantic Rail:

Atlantic Rail gets underway every second weekend, steaming down the track towards Simonstown or Stellenbosch and back again. Invite friends and family, take a picnic along, and if you really want to get into the swing of it, wear period costume for a true journey back in time.

About the author

ANTON CRONE quit the crazy-wonderful world of advertising to travel the world, sometimes working and drifting. Along the way, he unearthed a passion for Africa’s stories – not the sometimes hysterical news agency headlines we all feed off, but the real stories. Anton strongly empathises with Africa’s people and their need to meet daily requirements, often in remote, environmentally hostile areas co-habitated by Africa’s free-roaming animals.

Rats sniff out landmines in Mozambique

His Excellency Minister Oldemiro Júlio Margues Baloi – Mozambique’s Minister of Foreign Affairs – has declared the country free of all known landmines.

APOPO, has been working in the country to help clear the landmines since 2007, extended their heartfelt congratulations to the people and government of Mozambique. Tess Tewelde, APOPO’s Head of Mine Action Africa, said, “APOPO is extremely proud to have played a part in this historic achievement that now allows the people of Mozambique to finally live without the fear of landmines and explosive remnants of war.”

Following the completion of remaining landmine sites in Manica and Sofala provinces in early 2015, APOPO proudly and safely finalised all their humanitarian tasks in Mozambique, in the process destroying a total of 13,274 landmines and returning 11,124,446 square metres of land for safe and productive use.

APOPO has helped rid five provinces of landmines, returning safe land to local communities to live, work, farm and play without fear. Most households in these areas are headed by smallholder farmers who have been unable to use the land to grow crops and sustain their livestock for decades until APOPO arrived to clear and release the area.

APOPO remains in the country at the request of the National Institute of Demining to continue providing technical expertise and capacity for any residual or remaining clearance work, such as the former ammunition store now known as the Malhazine Ecological Park, which Mozambique’s Ministry of Environment is transforming into a nature reserve, educational and tourism centre.

Mozambique’s landmine problem was once one of the most severe in the world, with a legacy of landmines and explosive remnants of war from decades of conflict. Thousands of landmines were laid in the country during its 1964-1975 fight for independence and the following civil war. All factions used landmines to defend provincial and district towns, roads, airstrips, key bridges, power supply infrastructure and military posts. Although the civil war ended in the early 1990s, landmines and unexploded ordnance have continued to claim hundreds of lives of innocent people and hinder development.

A large-scale mine clearance effort was launched in 1993 by the United Nations Operations in Mozambique and international NGOs. At that time, Mozambique was considered one of the most mine-affected countries in the world.

As well as traditional approaches to mine action such as manual de-miners with metals detectors, ground preparation, and de-mining machines, APOPO also deploys its unique mine detection rats to help speed up operations as they detect only explosive material (TNT) and ignore harmless scrap metal. One HeroRAT can check an area of 200m² in about 20 minutes – a task that would take a conventional de-miner up to four days.

Welfare of elephants in captivity comes under question

An NSPCA report has revealed that tourists are still riding elephants in South Africa, despite a growing international move away from the controversial practice. Written by: Melissa Reitz

A report by the NSPCA (National Council of SPCAs) on the welfare status of elephants in captivity at 26 elephant facilities nationwide (14 of which offer elephant-back riding) reveals that nearly all captive elephants suffer welfare deficiencies in one way or another. This highlights the fact that South Africa is lagging in a growing global trend against using captive elephants for entertainment.

The report, compiled by the NSPCA’s Wildlife Protection Unit, has been submitted to all relevant government departments in South Africa and NGOs nationally and abroad and offers a scientific overview of the cruel realities that many captive elephants endure physically and emotionally.

The report also confirms the lack of conservation benefits of the captive elephant industry. The WWF (World Wide Fund for Nature) and IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) do not consider captive breeding a significant contribution to elephant conservation due to low breeding and high mortality rates. Also noted in the report is the high number of human injuries and fatalities due to public interaction with captive elephants.

According to the NSPCA report, more than half of the 26 facilities keeping captive elephants for public interaction use a method called: “free contact”, which includes the use of physical punishment, using an ankus or hook, to train elephants into submission.

“If tourists knew what it took to train an elephant for their ‘pleasure’, South African tourism could be damaged,” states Dr Mandy Lombard of Public Watch. “Although we hear of people being killed, few incidents where elephant handlers or tourists are attacked have been publicised.”

In the rest of the world, a growing movement against elephant back riding is emerging – with many travel agencies taking elephant riding off their itineraries and dissuading customers from supporting the practice.

Unlike South Africa, thirty-seven countries across the globe have bans on animals in circuses, including Mexico, Greece, Belgium and the Netherlands. Although not yet nationally endorsed, certain states of America have also issued circus animal bans. Still, England remains divided on this as political parties debate whether or not to change legislation.

Also read: Lion cub petting & captive wildlife interactions: what tourists need to know

Dereck Joubert responds to a hunter on the economics of hunting

After being sent the following offer several times from professional hunter Ivan Carter, award-winning filmmaker, Dereck Joubert decides to reply.

Dear Ivan,

This economic case is intriguing and worth unpacking scientifically and politely. Your note has a blend of economics and ‘experience’ or emotion, and I will attempt to separate them.

1. We have done much of this list already. Most guests in eco-tourism camps go out each day and do what most hunters do, except, of course, the experience is different as they actually walk more than trophy hunters do and leave the wildlife intact.

During the period from 1995 to 2003, I took notes on trophy hunting in what was called Area 6 (Linyanti Selinda) in Botswana and between 90-95% of animals were shot from vehicles so very little walking and stalking was involved. This, of course, was illegal, but this discussion is about viability, not infringements.

2. The photographic tourist with a camera gets up close enough to take a decent image with a 300mm lens, which is about 30% closer than a hunter has to with a high-powered rifle and a telescopic sight.

3. It’s a misnomer that each buffalo costs US$3,000 to stalk. This makes a basic assumption error that once you photograph the buffalo, you cannot take another photograph of it, either that day, the next or ever again. An image taken and a bullet fired have two completely different outcomes. The argument presented also assumes that while the buffalo may live for another 15 years, no one else can visit, pay the fees or photograph the buffalo. Great Plains provides free cameras in most of its camps, and the resulting statistics are revealing: most people take about 1,000 images a day. With a burn rate (those that are not keepers) of 50%, that implies 500 photographic trophies per day per person or couple! It is not fair to equate one photograph to one bullet. One bullet ends the potential. I would argue that each photograph gets taken back to the visitor’s circle of friends and serves as a brochure for more travellers to visit that same buffalo. One bullet? End of that cycle.

We once did a survey in Savuti in Botswana and calculated the value of a male lion dead (as a trophy) versus its value as an eco-tourism asset. It is complicated, but its value dead was US$15,000 then, whereas its value alive was around US$2,000,000. This is because of that basic oversight in your argument: a photographed lion yawns at the dawn repeatedly for photographs for over 10 years, attracting fees and lodging costs and also, importantly, distributing value down the chain to airlines, wages, curios, communities and food purchases (none of which were actually included in the US$2M calculation). However, one bullet ends those yawns in the sunrise forever for that lion.

Today you can hunt a lion for about US$23,000 for a male and, shockingly, just US$9,000 for a lioness! Who wants to shoot a lioness, by the way? A rare white lion will set you back about US$30,000. Who wants to shoot a rare white lion and end its life? I could run the numbers again in today’s terms, and we would find a proportionate increase in its value to be kept alive and wild.

4 An average stay at a place in Botswana, like the Zarafa Dhow Suite or Mombo, will cost you US$2,500 per day per person. In contrast, the average lodging fees for most hunting companies (I researched about 40) are around US$350-$450 per person.

5. Another miscalculation is in the sum that goes to the government. According to three sources, this is less than 5% of the price paid for the trophy, rather than your calculation of a third. And one of these sources was a government of Botswana study in 1999 and later a study by Animal Rights of Africa in 2008. Similar results are cropping up in IFAW and other NGO studies.

6. All of the Great Plains camps do actually give US$100 to communities as a conservancy or community fee, as do many others, so that is at least equal to your ‘offer’. However, most hunting concessions can only service 12-15 or so hunters a year. Even on a seven-day safari, that is, at best, 20 clients a year. So the average hunting operation produces US$15,000 in community fees in a five-month hunting season. From one camp like Mara Plains, at a 60% occupancy of 14 guests per night for 12 months, the community fee would be US$306,000. Even if we remove from this any anti-poaching contribution, which on a hunting concession calculation may be US$15,000 (per your note), a very liberal comparison would work out as a net benefit to the community and conservation of US$30,000 for hunting versus US$300,000 for a photographic trip.

7. Keeping the animals alive is clearly more viable but also increases exponentially if you consider the addition of their offspring to the ecosystem. In the case of lions, each male lion would add a further US$2M every time a cub survives to adulthood, and lions have an average output of about six cubs in their lifetimes.

8. The entire safari cost of US$20,000-$25,000 you quote equates to a ten-day photographic safari with Great Plains. That excludes flights and tips etc. However, I see that if two people are on a hunt, the fee goes down by about 33% for the second person, so a trophy hunt for two people would be about 15% less than an average photographic safari. Hence photographic safaris, in some cases, already exceed the prices achieved from hunting.

9. So yes, converting that land to non-hunting ground would probably make more money, especially if your business model, which now aims at 15 people, could be increased to 100 as per your request.

10. To summarise, it is impossible to win any economic argument for hunting, so it comes down to an emotional one. Ironically, the hunting representatives urge everyone not to get emotional about the subject, yet hunters come to Africa to get the (emotional) thrill of killing. Anyone who says it is for conservation can simply write a cheque to any great NGOs saving wildlife today.

The argument for hunting gets thinner each time it is tested. Ultimately, it may be reduced to some small game farms in South Africa, but it should certainly not exist in the wild.

Dereck

‘Extinct’ plant discovered on Lion’s Head

Cape granite flax was considered extinct, and the only evidence of its existence was scans of herbarium sheets dating back to the 1830s. Gigi Laidler was told to go and find one. In the wild. No pressure, then.

Gigi Laidler, a staff member at CREW, has this to say about the project, “One of the first things I learnt when I joined the CREW team is that ‘special’ doesn’t always mean big or showy when it comes to threatened species. There is much reward to be found in the small and seemingly uninteresting plants.

On my very first outing with the team, I was instructed to seek and find Granite Cape Flax Polycarena silenoides – a tall order for a small plant found only on Lion’s Head granites and presumed to be extinct. The only visual material I had to work with were scans of herbarium sheets dating back to the 1830s and descriptions gleaned from sources like Cape Plants and other Cape Floras. According to the Red List website, the status is Critically Endangered, possibly extinct and “Known from the slopes of Lion’s Head – three collections were made before 1940. We suspect this species may be extinct due to alien grass invasions and incorrect fire management.”

Of course, we didn’t find our plant on our first search in October, but undaunted, if I subsequently heard of anyone going anywhere near Signal Hill/Lion’s Head, I beseeched them to look out for a small plant in granitic areas.

Then one Sunday, I set off in search of this elusive target on a mild, overcast morning, with the odd hint of impending bad weather threatening to disrupt our botanising fun. Eventually, we reached our main target area on the lower road on the western side below Lion’s Head, where the granites start. We split the group with those feeling nimble and fleet-of-foot exploring the more bouldery section while the more “cautious” of us would simply scramble our way up the steep slope to the path, where we would rendezvous before returning to our vehicles.

I opted for the more direct scramble up the slope, and I didn’t get very far when an insignificant little weed-like plant about 8 or 9cm high caught my eye. Closer inspection confirmed all the “boxes” for the identifying features appeared to be “ticked”, – so I hazarded a guess that we had finally found our plant and proceeded to take many pictures. I will admit that the prospect of rediscovering a presumed extinct species is exhilarating, so Sunday night was a bit restless for me!

Cape Granite flax — Granite Cape Flax *Polycarena silenoides* © Gigi Laidler

On Monday morning, my find was indeed confirmed as being the long-lost Polycarena silenoides – a little plant that can be easily overlooked and dismissed as being something common. Granite Cape flax, as it is commonly known, was probably obscured by mature vegetation on previous searches, and we are fortunate that after the fire, it is now visible in the burnt area, where there is not too much competition from other larger plants.

This population of Polycarena silenoides will now need to be more fully assessed and monitored so that its Red List status can be revised, and more can be learnt about its life form and responses to fire and other threats.

It is encouraging to know that perseverance pays off, and small can be exciting too. So let’s keep looking for those elusive threatened plants, and who knows how many other long-lost species are waiting to be rediscovered.”

The Cape Floristic Region Custodians of Rare and Endangered Wildflowers (CREW) team is a citizen science programme that uses volunteers passionate about plants, many of which are also members of the Botanical Society of South Africa. CREW data feeds into IUCN Red Listing data with the SANBI Threatened Species Programme and is a way for the general public to make a meaningful contribution to conserving our unique natural heritage. This is plant conservation in action.

The hidden struggle of South Africa’s freshwater fish

A hundred years ago, our fynbos rivers pulsed with fish life: glowing redfins swarmed among the cobbles, speckled galaxias suspended weightless in the bubble line, and a pack of mottled kurpers lurked silently in the shadows. Wiley eels grinned in their cavernous lairs as night set in and their hunt began. Large cyprinids, like the Clanwilliam sandfish, migrate great distances upstream to their rocky spawning grounds as the winter floods subside. But sadly, those days are now long gone.

Breede River redfins swarming among cobbles

Low-lying reaches have been degraded by human activities like agriculture, and fish populations have been decimated by predatory alien fish. Today our fynbos rivers are largely devoid of native fish species – a depressing realisation given that most of these species occur nowhere else on the planet. Our sensitive fynbos fishes are backed into a corner like a wounded boxer. They have retracted deep into isolated mountain tributaries, now their last outposts within vast networks of uninhabitable riverscapes.

Smallmouth bass have eaten their way through our fragile native fish populations.

Nearly all of these species have made their way into the pages of the IUCN’s red list, and some are now so rare and isolated that they are literally swimming on the edge of extinction. Again, a depressing prospect, but there may yet be light at the end of this dark tunnel.

The author surveying fish populations in a mountain tributary. © Steve Benjamin — The author surveying fish populations in a mountain tributary © Steve Benjamin

In 2012/13, an ambitious conservation project conducted in the Rondegat River in the Cederberg demonstrated, under the disapproving eyes of its many sceptics, that sections of rivers can be rehabilitated and cleansed of alien fish. The project was spearheaded by the local conservation authority CapeNature, and monitoring by the South African Institute for Aquatic Biodiversity (SAIAB) revealed rapid recolonisation by native fishes and aquatic invertebrates from upstream following alien fish eradication. The project showed that a chemical called rotenone can eliminate alien fish without detrimental long-term effects on the rest of the river ecosystem and thereby give our native species back some room to survive – an aquatic miracle if ever there was one!

Feeding marks on a rock indicate the presence of Clanwilliam sandfish in a Cedarberg stream. © Riaan van der Walt — Feeding marks on a rock indicate the presence of Clanwilliam sandfish in a Cedarberg stream © Riaan van der Walt

Unfortunately, though, this solution doesn’t come cheap. This project, which successfully eradicated alien bass from four kilometres of stream and rehabilitated riparian habitat, cost more than ZAR4 million. While several species desperately need this type of intervention, future projects will rest on our ability to acquire the necessary funds – a tough challenge when working to save small, shy aquatic creatures that fall outside of the conservation spotlight.

A tiny galaxias in need of a helping hand. © Alexia Webster — A tiny galaxias in need of a helping hand © Alexia Webster

With my new film, Fins in the Fynbos, I hope to raise the profile of these unique but globally threatened fish, highlight their struggles and offer a way to invest in their future by supporting very much-needed conservation interventions:

Baobab and quiver trees – reaching for the stars

“Our relationship with the wild has always been important in my work. This series on starlit baobab and quiver trees was inspired by two fascinating scientific studies that connect tree growth with celestial movement and astral cycles. Most locations were truly wild and remote – far from civilisation and light pollution – in Botswana, Namibia and South Africa. Mighty and eccentric baobab and surreal quiver trees are featured in my work, each titled after constellations named by the ancient Greeks and Romans.” Beth Moon

“LYRA”

“CORVUS”

“ANDROMEDA”

“POLARIS”

“ARA”

“IZAR”

“HERCULES”

“VELA”

“OCTANS”

ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHER

The American-born photographer BETH MOON has gained international recognition for her large-scale, richly-toned platinum prints. Since 1999, Moon’s work has appeared in more than sixty solo and group exhibitions in the United States, Italy, England, France, Israel, Brazil, Dubai, Malaysia and Singapore, receiving widespread critical praise. Her prints are held in numerous public and private collections, and in 2013, the first monograph of her work, Between Earth and Sky, was published by Charta Art Books of Milan. In 2014, Abbeville Press published Ancient Trees: Portraits of Time, with a third book to follow in 2015 from German publisher Galerie Vevais titled La Langue Verte. Beth’s work can be seen at www.bethmoon.com
Her book Ancient Trees: Portraits of Time is available from the publisher Abbeville Press or Amazon.

Lion cub petting – but first, let me take a selfie!

As I apprehensively shuffled into the caged box, my stomach clenched, and my heart stopped. I immediately knew I was in a bad place and desperately wanted to run straight back out.

But something told me to carry on; something told me that by enduring the next hour in this awful place, I could hope to make a positive change to the hell that I currently found myself encased in. And that’s when I decided that I should try my absolute hardest to turn my experience into a huge positive. And that’s when I came up with this experiment.

I spammed this lion cub petting photo the following day across my social media platforms. Within minutes of uploading the image, likes and comments immediately began to pour in, as I predicted they would.

Everyone loves to see a cute lion cub gazing into the camera, heightened by the fact that he had his paw on my shoulder as I stared lovingly into his beautiful big eyes.

However, the truth of the lion cub petting industry is that one of the enclosures that I was taken into contained three lion cubs that, at merely three weeks old, had been taken away from their mother, who was in another enclosure far away. The cubs were given “lion milk formula”. The sad thing is that the guide answered absolutely every question I asked him without thinking anything was wrong. Knowing full well that everyone who pets these poor cubs in their enclosures is making them more accustomed to humans and losing their instinctual fear.

Sadly, many places in South Africa like this one claim to be good places for animals, which thousands of tourists believe. They make millions by attracting tourists from all over the world to see, hold and interact with ‘wild animals’. There are currently only about 2,000 lions left in the wild in South Africa, whilst there are as many as 7,000 currently in captivity.

While you may see a cute lion, happy to be involved in today’s selfie culture, this cub’s future is headed for the canned hunting industry. So if you dream about stroking, holding and taking your selfies with lions, know that you will contribute to a multi-million dollar lion cub petting industry that ends in a bullet lodged in this lion’s brain – to put it straight to you. Sorry.

If you are unfamiliar with the term ‘canned hunting’, let’s use the example of the lion in my selfie and call him Leo.

When Leo reaches an age when he is too big to cuddle, he will be taken on walks with tourists who pay big bucks for that ‘privilege’. When Leo turns two years old, he will be too big or dangerous to interact with people closely, although he is now very comfortable with the idea after interacting with hundreds every week.

Leo will then be left in an enclosure until he reaches his prime – to look his most impressive. When Leo is about six, a trophy hunter will travel to South Africa, after paying around US$38,000, to point his big man gun at Leo while accompanied by guides to protect the trophy hunter.

Meat will even be put out for Leo so that the hunter will know exactly where he will be. And as Leo has been around people since he was taken from his mother at two weeks old, he has no reason to fear the hunter.

Now that the bullet is lodged in Leo’s brain let’s take a selfie next to this trophy. What a brave ‘hunter’.

And while you may venture to these lion cub petting places and think that they are doing good for conservation due to the sheer volume of animals held in these places, know that these animals are suffering greatly – both physically from malnutrition and poor living conditions and mentally after being taken from their mothers at such a young age.

The horrors I saw included hyenas in cages with lions “to see if they will be friends.” I also experienced an attempted attack by an older tiger cub who I was told was “just playing” as his claws dug into me, hissing caracals being shoved into my arms, and three-week-old lion cubs with chunks of their fur missing.

Is this conservation? Is this right?

Whilst I strive to share my story far and wide to educate as many people as possible about the truth, I remain optimistic that there is hope for the future of our wildlife. With the release of the canned hunting exposé Blood Lions, I am filled with faith that as much as people are trying to harm our animals, more are trying to save them.

When I attended a talk by Blood Lions star Ian Michler in South Africa, I could feel the passion-driven fight in every person in the audience wanting to contribute to saving these majestic species. And that has only increased recently since Blood Lions was released in South Africa. With plans for screenings worldwide, the impact of this footage will surely unite the world in fighting against these awful lion prisons.

And whilst many see the death of Zimbabwe’s most famous lion as a heartbreaking truth of the occurrences of our modern society, I see it as a window of hope. To me, Cecil did not die in vain. His death has caused a stir in the world, and many are finally opening their eyes to the extent of the problem.

Blood Lions, together with the killing of Cecil, has sent the world into action, with airlines including British Airways, Virgin, Delta and many more, banning the transport of animal “trophies”, meaning that the estimated 15,000 American tourists who visit Africa every year on hunting safaris will struggle to return home with their “prize”.

People increasingly question the hunters’ statements that their actions are all for conservation. It costs an estimated US$26,000 for a lion conservation charity to continue their research, whilst a hunter will pay up to US$50,000 to kill one male lion. So if a trophy hunter told you they are helping conservation by shooting a lion, would you now believe them?

All I ask is that you share this message and my story so that our children can grow up knowing the beauty of the natural and rightful king of the jungle. We will not stop fighting!

Read more about the lion breeding industry in South Africa: Lion King or Commodity

Graphic content: Baby hippo killed by its pod

On an African safari, we see hippos lazing in the water with the tips of their ears and eyes poking out and the occasional spout of water as they take their next breath. But some of us working in the safari industry in Botswana discovered another side to these animals while on a weekend away in Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe. Written by: James Wilson and Tim Frayne

After an exceptional shortage of rain during the wet season, the heavens opened for two consecutive days in April. After waiting the whole morning for the downpour to subside, we realised that we were waiting in vain and decided to pack a lunch and set out for one of the many game-viewing hides strategically placed above a waterhole.

What transpired was a scene like no other – none of us had ever experienced such a thing.

As the rain continued to pour, it became apparent that a mother hippo (separated from the pod) was suckling her newborn calf. On closer inspection, we saw that the hippo calf was only a couple of days old and had not yet been introduced to the rest of the pod. Mother hippos usually isolate themselves from the pod to give birth and slowly introduce the calf when ready. Fortunately, we arrived when she revealed her calf to the pod – a special experience.

Slowly, the hippo mother exited the water to the waterhole’s edge. Almost instinctively, other pod members inquisitively made their way to the water’s edge. Three or four family members came out of the water and proceeded closer to the mother and calf. While the mother was protective of the calf, she did not try to keep the other hippos from coming too close as it wobbled precariously during its first steps on land.

For no apparent reason, the mother began backtracking and quietly returned to the water, while the other hippos that came to inspect the newcomer also backtracked to the water.

Something was about to go down.

A scene of complete chaos ensued that none of us expected after such a touching family moment. As if the incessant tapping of the raindrops on the tops of their heads had caused them to lose all sense of control, they attacked the mother. Three adults launched towards her and sent her fleeing for safety into the deeper water of the waterhole.

After this battle, the calf was left stranded on the other side while the hippos continued to target the mother. After about two minutes of the mother defending herself and the deafening grunts and groans of the fight, things began to settle down again.

Suspecting the hippo calf might be in trouble, we watched as a few adult hippos cornered the mother on one side of the waterhole while about seven hippos began moving in on the calf. We’ve seen dominant bulls attack younger male hippos that may threaten their dominance, but here both males and females seemed to have a collective plot to attack the calf.

Chaos ensued once more as they lunged for the helpless calf and flung it into the air. This set off the rest of the pod, and the scene turned to carnage, the small waterhole becoming a whirlpool of blood and drama. The mother watched helplessly as the entire pod attacked and slaughtered the calf. Each adult fought for an opportunity to attack the calf, pulling it from one side of the waterhole to the other.

Even the most seasoned guides felt a little traumatised by the sight of the baby hippo killed.

We’re not sure exactly what possessed the hippos to do this and how they did it. They may know the pressure on the pod every dry season as water dwindles in the waterholes. Perhaps this female had migrated from another region last season and wasn’t fully accepted by the pod.

The point is that this is the reality of life and death in the African bushveld. Like everything in nature, the carcass made for much-needed sustenance for the resident crocodiles, terrapins and fish. Although all a little startled by what we had just seen, we knew we had been fortunate enough to witness an incredible natural moment while on safari.

Watch: Hippo commits infanticide

CSI Bushveld – how did the python die?

During a recent trip to Madikwe Game Reserve, we were tracking lion spoor in the early morning light. The game ranger left the vehicle and followed the spoor that had veered off into the veld. He returned quickly with an excited glint in his eyes that had us all thinking: ‘Yes, lions!’ He informed us that he had not seen the lions but had found something else that was also, apparently, very interesting. The lions had led us to an enormous dead African rock python which was exceptionally fascinating to us as we flicked through pictures on his phone, but not interesting enough for the king of beasts as they had moved on.

Our ranger said we could see it for ourselves. I jumped at the opportunity – my 9-year-old son is mad about snakes, and a sighting like this would make me his heroin.

So, off we went to go and see the snake. When our group descended upon the snake, we fell silent out of respect and amazement for this five-metre-long legend of a snake. We slowly stepped closer to examine the dead python – there were no ants or insects on the snake and minimal signs of decay, so it couldn’t have been dead very long. So, why did it die?

The closer we got, the more we could smell a rotting stench coming from the snake’s middle, which was confusing as the corpse didn’t look old at all. There was fresh jackal spoor around the snake and pieces of flesh missing from the snake’s back where the jackal had begun to eat.

dead-african-rock-python-in-madikwe-corlette-wessels

By now, I was truly curious! I wanted to know what happened! This was turning into an episode of bushveld CSI. The ranger pointed out that horns had punctured the snake’s bulging side – whatever the snake had eaten, a small impala or steenbok. That was it; that was how a python this big had died!

My first wild python sighting blew me away: the snake’s size, its exquisite patterns, the colours – just breathtaking and what an unfortunate death, but such is nature.

On my return home, I decided to turn to Facebook for answers. Hopefully, a few reptile specialists would be able to explain what happened.

Johan Marais of African Snake Bite Institute thinks that the snake caught the antelope and was unable to digest it and was trying to regurgitate the meal then his horns punctured his body.

To me, this sounds like what could have happened. The smell was wafting directly from the middle of the snake’s bulging belly, not from the head or where the jackal had begun eating. So, that is probably how the African Rock python died.

Drones keep elephants safe in Tanzania

It happens in seconds. Tusks turn towards the sky, and the 5-ton elephant stops, scuttles backwards, flaps its ears, turns around… and runs in the opposite direction. The reason? Drones. Written by: Christina Goldbaum

“People think the drones work because they sound like bees,” says conservation biologist David Olson, noting that bees are a nuisance to elephants. “And the drones are like the mother of all Tsetse flies.”

Olson and his team at the conservation organisation RESOLVE and the Tanzania Wildlife Research Institute have been experimenting with the ability of small drones to herd elephants out of farms and into protected areas in Tanzania. The goal is to reduce human-elephant conflict (HEC), the decade-old struggle between farmers trying to grow crops and elephants scavenging for a meal. Unable to effectively discourage the elephants, farmers have begun resorting to extreme measures, including killing the animals with poisoned watermelons and arrows to save their crops.

The project is being tested this month in Tarangire National Park as crops are harvested and the height of elephant raiding season begins. Community scouts patrol the surrounding farms each night, calling in rangers armed with drones when they spot an elephant crossing into farmland.

And so far, the test results are clear: drones work.

“Elephants react in thirty seconds, and it only takes four minutes or less to chase the elephant off the farm,” says RESOLVE’s Jonathan Konuche, who has helped to train rangers to use drones. “And the rangers are in their vehicle at a safe distance.”

Before using drones, rangers flashed lights, made loud noises, and threw firecrackers wrapped in chilli – a substance elephants hate – to chase the animals out of farms, but the process was time-consuming and often ineffective.

When the possibility of using the aerial machines emerged, the team imagined attaching small sacks of chilli powder to the drones’ bellies, flying them over stubborn bulls, and shaking the drones to disperse chilli powder over the elephants – what they dub “chilli clouds.” But after initial tests, rangers realised that using chilli would present more problems than solutions.

“We’ve had a lot of chilli in the eye,” Konuche laughs. “But the rangers are tough.”

Chilli accidents aren’t the project’s only challenge, though. The drones are expensive (roughly US$1,100 per drone), their batteries last only twenty minutes, and their durability in tough field conditions is still uncertain.

“We can’t afford to buy six new drones yearly,” says Olson. “They need to last two to three seasons.”

Olson still hopes to scale the programme in Tanzania, where the elephant population has plummeted by 60% in the last five years, according to a new report from the Tanzanian National Parks Authority.

“We’re losing elephants fast,” Olson says. “We think these drones have a good use wherever elephants are.”

Professional hunters’ association president calls for a review of lion hunting

Hermann Meyeridricks, president of the Professional Hunters’ Association of South Africa (PHASA), is asking the hunting association to reconsider its position on lion hunting. This comes after Meyeridricks and the CEO of PHASA, Adri Kitzhoff, attended a screening of Blood Lions, a new film exposing the brutal practices of the captive breeding and canned hunting industries.

In a letter emailed to PHASA members dated 24 July 2015, Meyeridricks says that the campaign against trophy hunting has intensified around the canned or captive-bred lion hunting issue since its current policy on lion hunting was adopted at its AGM in November 2013.

“We took the view that our position was a stepping-stone to clean up the captive-bred lion hunting industry and made it clear that it was certainly not our final word on the hunting of lions,” he says.

“From my dealings with the media and the community, it has become clear to me that those against the hunting of lions bred in captivity are no longer just a small if vociferous group of animal-rights activists. Broader society is no longer neutral on this question and the tide of public opinion is turning strongly against this form of hunting, however it is termed. Even within our own ranks, as well as in the hunting fraternity as a whole, respected voices are speaking out publicly against it.”

Meyeridricks says that with some airlines and shipping lines refusing to transport hunting trophies, PHASA has to face the fact that the lion issue is putting at risk the reputation of professional hunting in South Africa and its very survival.

“PHASA’s current policy on the issue is, broadly speaking, that it recognises the legality of and demand for captive-bred lion hunting, and is working with the predator breeders and government to improve its standards and conditions to a generally acceptable level. We have made little demonstrable progress on this front,” he says.

“Against this background, I have come to believe that, as it stands, our position on lion hunting is no longer tenable. The matter will be on the agenda again for our next annual general meeting and I appeal to you to give it your serious consideration, so that together we can deliver a policy that is defensible in the court of public opinion,” he says in the letter.

Read an interview with the Blood Lions filmmakers

Snakebite!

Panic

People panic in the event of a snakebite. The victim panics – so much so that he or she may get nauseous and start vomiting; those in attendance panic and make poor decisions as to applying first aid and assisting the victim; even doctors panic when faced with an emergency – several have called me, desperate for advice. So, when young Crawford Coulson walked into my office one Saturday morning in the Valley of a Thousand Hills (near Durban, South Africa) with a terrified look on his face and said, “A black mamba has just bitten me,” I knew I had to think fast.

I did not doubt that Crawford knew what he was talking about – he was the snake park curator at Assagai Safari Park, a crocodile and snake park in the Valley of a Thousand Hills. Although it may take 3 – 16 hours for mamba venom to kill an adult, there are many cases where the victim has died within an hour.

“I have just been bitten by a black mamba”

We were about a thirty-minute drive from Addington Hospital in Durban, and Crawford clearly had a severe bite – the snake bit him on the back of the calf, and its fangs got stuck for several seconds. Within minutes Crawford complained that his lips were going numb. I got him into a vehicle and ran to the restaurant for help, but it was chaotic with tourists that had just emerged from two luxury buses. I drove to the owner’s house about 100 meters up the driveway, but it was empty – they had all gone shopping.

I sped off for Addington Hospital with the little BMW drifting from side to side as I took the corners on the highway. After fifteen minutes, Crawford was going downhill fast. He was sweating profusely, finding it difficult to keep his head up, and his speech was intermittent and slurred. I contemplated stopping at the closer Westville Hospital but knew they did not have a trauma unit, and I was not sure whether doctors would be available to deal with a snakebite emergency. I resolved to head for Addington, the main snakebite hospital in Durban at the time. The road was busy, as it is most Saturday mornings; I had my emergency lights on, and I was hooting to usher vehicles out of the way. As I entered Durban off the Western freeway, I blew the fuse on the hooter and had to worm through the traffic.

Crawford survived the bite without antivenom

As I pulled into Addington, Crawford was slipping into unconsciousness, and he was rushed into I.C.U. There was chaos and panic as they had no antivenom. But eleven hours later, after excellent hospital care, Crawford was out of danger, and he returned to work within a few days.

Miraculously, by being placed on a ventilator, Crawford survived the bite without antivenom.

The major effect of neurotoxic envenomation is that the venom paralysis the chest muscles and the victim stops breathing. But if the patient is properly ventilated, he or she may survive the bite without antivenom as the body eventually breaks down the venom – I stress, may survive; this is risky and does not always work.

Mamba bites are few and far between in South Africa, and in most years we hear of just a dozen bites or so. This deadly snake with its fearsome reputation and supposedly aggressive nature is far from the deadly attacker that people imagine; the black mamba is in fact a very shy and elusive snake that is quick to escape when disturbed. But if cornered or threatened without hope for escape, it will bite and may even deliver multiple bites.

In Crawford’s case, the snake was coiled up in the morning sun and fast asleep when he accidentally stepped onto it. About two weeks later I caught a 2.5metre black mamba a few paces from where Crawford was bitten.

In Southern Africa, snakebite is a reality that many people have to deal with. There are over 170 different types of snakes in the region and of them, about 20 are potentially deadly. In the region of 7,000 snakebites are recorded annually, with close on 50 fatalities.

The main snakebite culprits

Cytotoxic venom

The vast majority of snakebites are inflicted by snakes with cytotoxic venom. Cytotoxic venom, though extremely destructive to tissue, seldom causes fatalities, and most victims recover quite quickly, although some require multiple operations to counter the devastating effects of the destructive venom on body tissue.

The most common snakes responsible for bites are:

Other snakes with predominantly cytotoxic venom include:

Symptoms include:
– severe pain.
– excessive swelling.
– in many cases, blisters followed by necrosis (death of body tissue).

Neurotoxic venom
The two snakes that cause the most fatal bites are the black mamba and the Cape cobra. Their venom is potently neurotoxic and fast-acting.

Symptoms include:
– Nausea.
– Slurred speech.
– Ptosis (drooping or falling of the upper or lower eyelid).
– Progressive weakness.
– Eventual paralysis of chest muscles causes difficulty in breathing and death. In severe cases, victims struggle to breathe within 20 minutes, but in untreated cases, death could take about 4 – 16 hours.

Haemotoxic venom
Two of Southern Africa’s snakes, the boomslang and the twig or vine snake, have haemotoxic venom, affecting the blood clotting mechanism. Fortunately, both these snakes are placid and seldom bite unless captured or accidentally stepped on. One or two boomslang bites are reported yearly, and virtually all twig snake victims are snake handlers.

Symptoms include:
– Victims may experience no symptoms for several hours after a bite, but eventually, blood starts oozing from the fang punctures.
– This is followed by a bleeding nose, bleeding from the mucous membrane and eventually massive internal haemorrhaging. This could take a day or two and, in untreated cases, a slow and painful death.

Preventing snakebite

Most snakebites occur during warm wet summer nights from January to March/April.
Should you encounter any snake, back off and move away. Five metres or more from any snake is a safe distance, and it is a myth that snakes chase after people. Even the deadly black mamba never chases people and avoids confrontations unless cornered. It is not an aggressive snake and seldom accounts for bites.

– Wear adequate boots when in the field.
– Never handle any snake, regardless of size (some snakes play dead).
– Use a torch when walking at night.
– Keep your tent zipped closed at all times when camping.

In the event of a snakebite

In the event of a snakebite, it is best to keep the victim calm and rapidly, but safely, transport them to the closest hospital with a trauma unit.

Do not do any of the following:
– Never cut or try to suck the venom out. It does not work, and you will do more damage than good.
– Never apply a tourniquet. Arterial tourniquets do not slow the rate at which venom is absorbed and often do far more damage than good.
– Do not apply ice or heat; never give the victim alcohol.
– Forget about traditional remedies, including Condy’s crystals and charcoal – no traditional remedies help for snakebite.
– Never inject antivenom, cortisone or antihistamine. Antivenom is highly effective when required and must be administered by a medical doctor in a hospital environment. Many people are allergic to antivenom (it is made from horse blood), which may result in anaphylaxis in severe cases. This critical medical condition will require urgent medical intervention by a doctor.

The biggest danger is a neurotoxic bite that affects breathing

The first aid options for snakebites are limited, and victims must be transported to a hospital urgently. The biggest danger is a neurotoxic bite that affects breathing. If you are several hours from a hospital and have pressure bandages (crepe bandages), and you are quite sure it was a mamba or cobra bite, you can apply the pressure bandages around the limb from the bite towards the heart as tight as you would for a sprained ankle. This puts pressure on the lymphatic system and may delay the rate at which venom is spread through the body. But the pressure bandage should not be used for cytotoxic venoms with a lot of swelling.

Otherwise, one can assist-breathe the patient or resort to C.P.R., but that is seldom effective for more than 15-20 minutes. Never attempt mouth-to-mouth resuscitation without a face mask – you do not want to swallow someone else’s bodily fluids. The most effective form of first aid in serious bites from snakes with neurotoxic venom is using a bag valve mask (BVM) which could be life-saving. But one would need some training in using a BVM – something worth considering if you are far away from medical help or often venture into the bush.

The African Snakebite Institute provides a variety of snake awareness and first aid for snakebite courses. More details on snakebite are available in the book Snakes and Snakebite in Southern Africa and the downloadable app: Snakebite First Aid Africa.

About the author

Johan Marais has devoted most of his life to his favourite hobby – reptiles. He grew up in Durban, where he encountered common reptiles regularly. In his early twenties, he worked at the Fitzsimons Snake Park in Durban and then moved up to the Transvaal Snake Park in Halfway House where he worked as curator for three years followed by about six years farming crocodiles. During this time, he was an active member of the Crocodile Specialist Group of the International Union for Conservation of Nature.

Over the years Johan has conducted numerous reptile field trips with friends and scientists either in search of specific reptiles or conducting reptile surveys. Today he spends most of his time lecturing on reptiles, training people to handle snakes safely, conducting field trips, photographing reptiles and talking on the corporate circuit.

African Parks to manage two more conservation areas in Malawi

African Parks is pleased to announce that it has agreed with the Government of Malawi to manage and operate Liwonde National Park and Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve for 20 years. The agreement follows an application and evaluation process administered by the Public-Private Partnership Commission in which African Parks emerged as the preferred partner to manage the two protected areas.

Elephants on the Shire River in Liwonde National Park © Central African Wilderness Safaris/ African Parks

Liwonde National Park, located in southern Malawi, is 548m² and consists of woodland, floodplains, grasslands, and lagoon. It supports the largest remaining population of elephants in the country as well as one of two populations of black rhino. Other mammal species include hippo, hyena, buffalo, warthog, several antelope species and more than 400 bird species. Lions were once commonplace, and the healthy populations of other large mammals will allow for the quick reintroduction of predators.

Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve, located in the central region of Malawi, is 1,800 km², lying within the miombo woodland zone. It is a major catchment area for Lake Malawi. Although a depleted park, it still has remnant populations of elephant, warthog, baboon, and various antelope species, as well as 280 bird species. Well managed, it has the potential to become an important area for elephant conservation in Malawi. Black rhinos, lions, cheetahs and wild dogs once existed here but are now all locally extinct.

“We are excited about the mandate granted to us by the Ministry Of Information, Tourism and Culture and are encouraged about the potential of both projects,” said Peter Fearnhead, African Parks CEO. “We aim to restore the biodiversity in both Liwonde and Nkhotakota completely, enhance the tourism product and experience, reduce the extensive human-wildlife conflict, ensure the sustainable use of natural resources and contribute to the socio-economic development of local communities living around the two areas. This will be achieved through a US$18m investment in the two parks over five years, made possible by a few key partners of African Parks”.

African Parks is a non-profit organisation that takes on total responsibility for the rehabilitation and long-term management of national parks and protected areas in partnership with governments and local communities. With the addition of the Liwonde and Nkhotakota tour portfolio, they now manage three parks in Malawi, including Majete Wilderness Reserve.

DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.

Pousargues’s mongoose rediscovered after 20 years

With only 31 museum specimens and a handful of possible sightings over the last twenty years, the Pousargues’s or savanna mongoose (Dologale dybowskii) is one of the least known carnivores in the world. But now we can learn more about them. Written by: Thierry Aebischer & Raffael Hickisch

During our fieldwork between 2011 to 2015 in the southeastern part of the Central African Republic, we discovered a population of this forgotten dwarf mongoose in the Chinko Project Area, a conservation zone recently founded and now part of the African Parks network.

Before we started the first expedition, almost nothing was known about the wildlife in the eastern Central African Republic. We now have a better understanding of this small carnivore and its social structures thanks to direct field observations and strategically placed camera traps installed around termite mounds occupied by Pousargues’ mongoose. Astonishingly, the Pousargues’s mongoose shares its jungle home with eight different species of mongoose.

Observations from the Chinko show that Pousargues’s mongoose lives in small groups ranging from three to 12 individuals, which regularly move between their favourite termite mounds. Breeding has been observed taking place in mid-May during the early rainy season. A small group of three adults have been observed caring for an infant, carrying it around in their mouths. A first genetic survey based on collected scat samples shows the Pousargues’s mongoose being a close relative of the forest-dwelling Kusimanse crossarchus.

Based on more than 1,500km of walked transects, over 14,500 camera traps, days spent in more than 400 different locations and countless hours of field observations, Pousargues’ Mongoose seem to occur in much lower densities than most other mongoose in the Chinko Project Area. Habitat preferences and their ecological recommendations are still largely unknown, so further studies are needed. The vegetation is relatively pristine in eastern CAR, South Sudan and northern DRC due to less human interference in these areas. As such, it can be assumed that the habitat of Pousargues’s mongoose is still available at scale.

Poaching and overgrazing seriously threaten animals like lions, elephants, wild dogs and possibly this little mongoose in the Central African Republic. Therefore, managing large-scale reserves like the Chinko Project Area is important to secure a functional ecosystem and the long-term survival of a diverse wildlife community, including nondescript dwarfs like the Pousargues’s mongoose.

Blood Lions – a film exposing the brutal exploitation of the king of beasts

Many tourists are lured to South Africa with the prospect of petting a lion cub or walking with young lions. Some come as “volunteers”, paying to stay at lion breeding facilities where they hand-rear cute cubs. All are sold the lie that their money and help go towards increasing lion numbers and conserving the species. These are ‘blood lions’.

The truth is that most of these lions are bred for the bullet, with over 800 captive-bred lions being killed annually by trophy hunters. Due for release at the Durban International Film Festival on 22 July, Blood Lions is set to expose this bloody and brutal industry.

Every single day in South Africa at least two to three captive bred or tame lions are being killed in canned hunts.

There are about 200 farms and breeding facilities holding as many as 7,000 lions in captivity today – about three times the number of wild lions in legitimate conservation areas. Breeding farms supply hunting operators with adult lions to be shot in confined areas. This makes it difficult for the lions to evade hunters, and easier for hunters to locate and kill them. Canned or captive hunting has opened up an entirely new market for people that would otherwise not have been able to afford a wild hunt, and business is booming.

The film follows longtime wildlife campaigner Ian Michler on his quest to uncover the truth behind these breeding facilities and the canned hunting industry. Opponents to predator breeding and canned hunting have been calling for an end to these practices for almost 20 years, but with little lasting success as both practices continue to grow.

“The Blood Lions team believes the film will provide the campaign with a significant boost,” says Michler. “Powerful footage and a compelling narrative from a number of world-renowned conservationists and welfare experts will leave viewers in little doubt as to what is taking place on many private farms across South Africa. Other than greed and ego, there are no reasons to be breeding lions in captivity to be killed in captivity. We believe the film can be a global tool for meaningful change.”

Filming undercover

One of the greatest challenges for Michler and filmmaker Nick Chevallier was gaining access to and filming on breeding and hunting farms that are not open to scrutiny. “Many of the operators, which includes the hunters as well as the cub-petting and other farms, are hostile to any inquisitive questioning because they do not want the fraud exposed,” says Michler.

“Investigative filming techniques became critical to telling this story and to the journalistic process,” explains Chevallier who has been involved with wildlife documentaries for most of his long career. ‘This documentary was different in that the story unravelled over a couple of years. We knew it was going to be a difficult project in view of the secrecy and sensitivity of the topic. Getting access to places was a big challenge, as was trying to film and capture sequences without revealing too much of what we were doing. In the field, it was also emotionally challenging for me, particularly on the breeding farms, and later when viewing footage.”

There is no doubt that the revealing and graphic nature of the film will affect animal lovers and wildlife campaigners alike, potentially motivating them to action. But one of the key questions is if it will motivate trophy hunters and hunting organizations.

blood lions — Tourists pay to pet lion cubs that are being bred for the bullet. ©Ian Michler

Breeding lions have no real conservation or educational purpose

“Given that breeding and canned hunting of lions serves no real conservation or educational purpose, and that the ethics and sportsmanship of the behaviour are seriously questionable, you would have thought that any self-respecting hunter would be completely on-sides in trying to have the practices stopped,” says Michler. “However, the mainstream bodies, PHASA (Professional Hunters Association of South Africa) included, have decided to side with the breeders and canned hunters as these practices provide easy trophies to a far greater market than traditional fair-chase hunting could ever do. Throw in all the other commercial activities such as cub-petting, trading and the volunteer tourist scam, and you have an industry that provides significant profit opportunities to their membership. So the lucrative financial spinoffs have trumped everything else.”

The breeding and hunting industries try to justify their activities on the grounds that they are making significant contributions to conservation, either financially or by protecting the species. But Michler says they can make no such claims and that it is detrimental to conservation. “The breeders and hunters do not work with any recognised conservation agencies or lion ecologists,” says Michler. ‘”y making the claims they do, the true conservation messages and priorities are being confused and vital funding is being directed away from where it is needed most.”

Asked about the ability of such documentaries to generate public awareness, Chevallier said, “Today there are a lot more well researched, investigative type stories out there focusing on cruelty issues and the viewer respects this opportunity of ‘lifting the lid’. As much as viewers worldwide love to watch beautiful natural history documentaries that show animal behaviour in wild settings, the world is changing fast, as are concepts like ‘wilderness’. The global human population explosion is obviously having a major impact on wildlife, as is the commoditisation of nature, and people are catching on to this. There’s more awareness and social media is playing a very big role.”

Hunters standing up against canned hunting

Thanks to this awareness there has been positive progress in the campaign to eradicate the exploitation of wildlife. Recently a number of international airlines banned the transport of animal parts, including hunting trophies, on their flights, and Australia has banned the import of hunting trophies. There is also progress in hunting circles. “There is a growing group of professional hunters here in South Africa that have stood up against the practices. They have taken on PHASA and are prepared to see a split in the body between the ethical and unethical hunters,” says Michler. “I do see opposition to breeding and canned hunting growing significantly across the world and hopefully many more hunting organisations will realise they are damaging their reputation if they continue to support canned hunting.”

A film set to provoke change

Blood Lions has already been accepted in some international film festivals and will be screened in parliaments around the globe, universities and schools, as well as to select audiences of decision-makers.

Chevallier considers himself fortunate to be able to influence some way “I really enjoy tackling nature-based, environmental stories where I can help support the “voiceless”.”

Michler says he sees the film as a significant step up in over 15 years of efforts for him. “The process is unfolding at a quicker rate. Throughout the Blood Lions film and the campaign, I have noticed two things”, he says. ‘One: opposition to hunting, in general, is growing, and, other than for those involved, it is almost universal when it comes to canned hunting. Two: The justifications have run out for the vested interests, especially those that make the killing or make money.”

Visit bloodlions.org to learn more and get involved.

Female elephant mistakenly shot by hunters

A hunter recently shot and killed a female elephant while trying to hunt a bull elephant at Mabalingwe Nature Reserve near Bela-Bela in Limpopo province. Written by: Sharon van Wyk

Controversy surrounds issuing the permit to hunt the bull and killing the apparently very docile cow. teamAG attempted to speak to the management at Mabalingwe and was referred to Hannes Wessels, who did not return telephone messages.

According to Mabalingwe shareholder Rob Preller, one of the owners, Hannes Wessels, approached Limpopo’s Department of Economic Development, Environment and Tourism (LEDET) for a permit to shoot the bull. The application was declined because Mabalingwe didn’t have an elephant management plan, a legal requirement for reserves with wild elephants.

Dr Yolande Pretorius of the University of Pretoria’s Centre for Wildlife Management was contracted to draw up the plan, and interim recommendations included the use of GnRH and putting the female elephants on a contraceptive programme. A bull elephant, without other competitive bulls around, stays in permanent musth, which is a state of sexual arousal. This makes it aggressive but the issue can be managed by administering a course of vaccines known as GnRH that lower testosterone levels.

“He apparently gave the bull the first round of GnRH, but it seems likely that he didn’t complete the course, and continued to be aggressive as a result,” said Dr Pretorius.

“At this stage, I brokered a deal to buy the bull and translocate it,” says Rob Preller, but added that Wessels refused the deal, preferring to shoot it.

Pretorius says Wessels pressured her to finish the elephant management plan by the end of June. “I became uneasy because I knew he wanted to get a permit to shoot the bull and couldn’t without the management plan,” she says. “After constant pressure from him – and the fact that he had ignored my recommendations to manage the bull properly – I withdrew my services without finishing the management plan.”

Investigations suggest that Wessels may have persuaded LEDET to issue a permit on the grounds that the bull was a ‘damage-causing animal’ (DCA). “If he did, I don’t know how,” says Preller, “because LEDET is supposed to investigate DCA claims before issuing permits, and no such investigation occurred. LEDET is also legally obliged to either put down the problem animal themselves or use a professional hunter, and a nature conservation officer must supervise the shooting. Instead, it appears Wessels ‘sold’ the permit to a local hunter.”

That’s when things went awfully wrong. A female elephant allegedly charged the vehicle carrying the hunter during the hunt and was shot instead. Wessels refused to comment on the incident, claiming it was ‘too controversial’.

The head of the Mabalingwe Common Property Association, Jan Zeederberg, was also unavailable for comment, as was Matie Barnard, manager of Mabalingwe’s agents, Waterberg Property Management. Kgmotoso Theko of LEDET’s Modimolle permit office was not taking calls, and the LEDET communications officer, Mboni Mushiana, has not responded.

With the hunting permit still valid, the bull’s future is uncertain, although sources at Mabalingwe suggest it has been postponed.

“We’ve got the solution to this problem in the form of the GnRH,” says Preller. “But it seems that Mabalingwe’s owners are more concerned with making money from its death than giving it a fair chance at life.”

Deeper into Durban

A vibey start to a “staycation”

To ease us into the “staycation” concept, our city safari adventure began at the vibey Unity Brasserie & Bar. Durban is known for being quiet on weeknights, and Unity proved that wrong by being packed at 6 pm on a rainy Tuesday night. We were treated to a local beer tasting courtesy of That Brewing Co., then dived into our new favourite brew “Beasts of the Deep”. To stave off any hangovers, we also tucked into outstanding veg burgers; their gourmet bunnies are the stuff of legends.

Our beer buzz on, we made a late check-in to our home for the next two nights. The Concierge Boutique Bungalows shares premises with the innovative Freedom Cafe, made of two bright red shipping containers. We did not expect to find the colourful art explosion that burst out of our room as we opened the door and loved the Daschund-inspired graphics and wine. Our room opened out onto our own partitioned patio garden, so we felt like we were in an exotic Henri Rousseau painting when our doors were open.

An old neighbourhood with a tasty new vibe

The next morning, after a good strong cup of coffee on our private patio, we arrived at what must be one of the regeneration cornerstones of the Glenwood neighbourhood – The Corner Café. Editorial note: Corner Cafe has subsequently closed. Founder Judd has become something of a Durban institution himself, building on his ethos of seasonal and locally grown produce served in the warm and homely atmosphere of the Café.

Tucked away in the depths of Glenwood is another local legend, 36o3, a cosy sibling-run restaurant that has built a reputation for some of the most vibrant and innovative food in Durban. We don’t usually seek out the chef to compliment them, but Andy felt he needed to hug Brett Gentles after the best meal we have ever eaten in Durban or South Africa.

One morning we were lucky enough to get a table at the always bustling Glenwood Bakery, surrounded by the aromas of freshly baked artisanal bread.

We often filled our faces in the tasty Glenwood neighbourhood before heading out for the day to see what Durban had to show us.

Having a ball in the
Valley of a Thousand Hills

A twenty-minute drive from Glenwood found us in the Valley of a Thousand Hills, surrounded by what looked like giant hamster balls. There are two types of balls, officially known as Groovy Balls – an Aqua Ball, aka “Washing Machine”, and a Harness Ball, aka “Tumble Dryer”. We both jumped inside the washing machine and linked arms to prevent head-on collisions. After throwing a bucket of warm water in with us, we were rolled down a hill for an intense 27-second churn in what felt like a giant slip ’n slide. This will definitely whet any adrenaline junkie’s appetite!

With every turn of the spiralling road, we delved into a Durban we knew nothing about

An incredible homemade lunch was had at Kloof’s famous Sprigs restaurant; then we headed deeper into the hills. Our next adventure was in the rural village of isiThumba, and with every turn of the spiralling road, we delved into a Durban we knew nothing about and felt the anticipation we usually get when arriving in exotic and far-flung places.

Our guide Nhlakanipho, from Durban Green Corridor, spent the afternoon with us in the village of his birth and proudly shared stories of the area and the people who live here. He explained that isiThumba means “kidnapping” and is named after the mountain above the valley. According to legend, after some local herdsmen disappeared, their chief, wanting to avoid a war with the neighbouring village suspected of killing the herdsmen, told the community that the mountain had kidnapped the men and that they should avoid that area at all costs. While the story may have passed into folklore, the name remains.

Feeling irie

Venturing into the heart of the Inanda Valley, the great people of Durban Green Corridor took us to one of Durban’s most unique attractions: the Rasta Caves. We were beneath a huge rock overhang after a long walk and steep ascent along the cliff face near the uMzinyathi Waterfall. The cave walls are decorated with paintings and Rasta scriptures. Until recently, a community of Rastafarians lived and worshipped here. While nosy tourists like ourselves have largely chased them off, we were fortunate enough to meet 17-year-old Shadow Shakes, who looks after the caves and lives there in solitude, worshipping Jah.

comp-77 — Clockwise: A cultural visit of a different kind – the Rasta Caves with Durban Green Corridor; Shadow Shakes who lives and worships in the caves; Andy enjoys an Ethiopian meal at Habesha in Glenwood. ©knotjustpics

Feeling irie and having spent some time in Ethiopia and fallen in love with their food, it was a delight to sit in the home of Habesha back in Glenwood that evening, where we relived the magical energy of Ethiopia and North African cuisine. A good shiro wot (spicy chickpea stew), injera (the spongy pancake-like accompaniment to all Ethiopian meals) and a cup of buna (strong, aromatic Ethiopian coffee) was the perfect way to end an exhausting yet enlightening day.

Walking on water for the best view of Durban

Being a terrible human before 10 am, the idea of Stand-Up-Paddle boarding at sunrise was something I (Szerdi) was dreading. Luckily we had the vibrant Charlotte from Xpressions and the flattest sea I have ever seen. After a quick lesson on the beach, we struck out for open water only to be dumped by an ankle-high wave; finally, I was awake and ready to see Durban from the sea.

After that wobbly start and a stance that resembled someone hovering over a port-a-loo, I finally got the feel of it and “SUPed” forth. Seeing the city’s beauty from such an unusual vantage point took my breath away.

While at the beach, one of the best ways for couples to explore Durban’s seafront promenade is on a tandem from Bike and Bean. Despite being the middle of winter, Durban weather is relatively warm, and locals keep in shape throughout the year, so we rode along with many other riders and runners. Once back at Bike and Bean, we recharged with muffins and coffee while taking in the unspoilt sea view.

The South Asia of South Africa

You can’t but love Durban’s South Asian influence, and the Bangladesh market tucked away in the suburb of Chatsworth is a must. Walking down the market aisles, you’re struck with sensory overload. There was so much to see, hear, smell and taste, and we ended up chatting with friendly stall owners and shoppers as we wandered through the vibrant market.

Down the road is the Hare Krishna temple. The Temple of Understanding, as it’s known, is hard to miss with its three gold-tipped towers. The temple’s restaurant is famous in Durban for its vegetarian meals. After spending a good deal of time sampling pretty much everything, we were lucky enough to be in time for a ceremony known as the Raj Bhoga-arati.

The burning of incense and rhythmic drumming brings devotees into the centre of the temple, where they await the unveiling of curtains that reveal statues of their gods, to which they sing while receiving a blessing. The chanting, drumming and burning incense that filled the great hall created a powerfully calming atmosphere.

One evening we found ourselves at one of Durban’s best-kept secrets, Palki. Tucked away in an old Berea house, this restaurant has served authentic Indian cuisine for eighteen years. It has become a favourite with Durban’s Indian community and a growing number of people keen to expand their culinary horizons. With our tummies full of spicy goodness, we ventured across the (Umgeni) River for our night at the luxurious Three Cities Auberge Hollandaise Guesthouse. Being regular travellers, our idea of luxury is our own toilet and hot water. Still, our room was almost half the size of our entire house, and we felt completely rejuvenated by the luxury of it all.

Downtown – Durban deep

Leaving the luxury behind, we headed for the vibrance of downtown Durban. As sheltered suburbanites, it’s embarrassing to admit that this is one area we have been dying to explore but lacked the nerve to do so. What’s strange is that everywhere else we travel, we are usually the first to seek out and explore the rougher areas, but home-based prejudices seem to be the hardest to break. We are so glad we finally did. Seeing this part of Durban really illustrates what a melting pot of African and international cultures Durban is, and engaging with the street life of our city was one of the turning points for turning our crush on this city into a fully-fledged love affair.

We ultimately met up with Stembiso and Jonas, owners of the energetic and bespoke Street Scene Tours, who took us on a passion-filled, shebeen hopping tour of the KwaMashu township. Ste’s passion for his hometown and his depth of historical knowledge saw us visiting the homes of Mahatma Gandhi and the Ohlange School, where Nelson Mandela cast his historic vote in the 1994 elections.
What made this tour so special was meeting people like Mandla, an IEC worker who was the first person to shake Mandela’s hand on the day of the election and whose story left us with goosebumps and tears, and the personal relationships Street Scene has built up with the community. After a few quarts at the shebeens, which certainly enhanced our passion for Durban, we ended our day and exploration of our city with a Durban classic: a beans bunny chow at the Britannia, Durban’s oldest hotel.

Durban moves up a notch on the “Go-to” list

In hindsight, we were naive to think that a staycation in our own city wouldn’t show us anything we didn’t already know. We’ve always had a lukewarm admiration for our city – the same fondness for that ugly but warm sweater you don’t wear anywhere else but home. But Durban proved us wrong. Now, when talking to other travellers, our “go-to” list of cool South African places won’t be limited to the safari icon of Kruger National Park and Cape Town – the Mother City; our Durban will have pride of place.

Find out about Africa’s epic safari destinations and our ready-made safari packages – or ask us to craft your ideal vacation.

About the authors

ANDY STENT AND SZERDI NAGY are a married photographic team intent on exploring and discovering as much of our incredible world as they can. Their passion for travel was sparked when they travelled to Nepal in 2010 and since then they have used their wedding photography business to fund their adventures. They love exploring Africa in their trusty Land Rover, Murray, and having the chance to meet and interact with people from all over the world. They also have a quest to find the most beautiful campsite on the planet.

Follow Andy and Szerdi on Instagram @wechooseadventure and @knotjustpics. See more of their incredible adventures on their website.

Wings over Namibia – an aerial safari

Rising hundreds of meters off the desert floor, the ancient Namib Nauklift National Park dunes in Namibia are unforgettable.
“After soaring high above the vast landscapes of Namibia, we feel blessed and privileged to be alive. We have seen landscapes that have left us breathless with their beauty, terrified at their expanse and lonely in their isolation. There is a certain stillness you find deep inside when viewing the wild open places of Namibia from above…… great herds of buffalo, a lone elephant bull on an endless plain, marching dunes, dancing flamingos, the swirling and meandering Kavango and crashing waves on empty desert shores. It has been a journey and an adventure – a true African safari.”
Photographer Jay Roode

A small family of Hartmann’s mountain zebras drink their fill at the aptly named Zebra watering hole late one afternoon in the Namibrand Nature Reserve.

Where the icy Atlantic kisses the sun burnt shores of the Sperrgebiet. Here Conception Bay shimmers an emerald green in the midday sun.

It is seldom that this desert feels soft rain falling on its shoulders. Here the pans of Sossusvlei are filled with water after an unusual rainy spell.

Find out about Sossusvlei in Namibia for your next African safari. Find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

Rock art – a cultural treasure of Ennedi

More than 100 rock art sites at the Ennedi Plateau in Chad have been identified, thanks to Rocco Rava, the park manager. African Parks, who manage Ennedi, has been evaluating the potential for Ennedi to be established as a wildlife and cultural protected area. These sites show thousands of paintings and engravings on cave and rock walls, some dating back 8,000 years.

In February, African Parks concluded a memorandum of understanding with the Chadian Government to assess the landscape, obtain an understanding of the people and pinpoint the challenges in establishing Ennedi as a protected area.

Located in northeast Chad, in the Sahara Desert, Ennedi is famous for its rock paintings, towering rock arches, and quivering, yellow sands. A portion of Ennedi falls within a proposed UNESCO World Heritage site.

Its rock art tells a story of the area before it was impacted by climate change, of the presence of elephants, giraffes, rhinos, cheetahs and ostrich. Paintings also vividly depict the lives of communities, as highlighted by hundreds of scenes featuring warriors, herdsmen with cattle and dancing women.

Left unprotected, this rich tapestry of the region’s archaeological history will continue to be eroded – through sandstorms, animal defecation, human contact with the art, and the pillaging of chunks of rock art to sell to tourists. It’s one of several reasons to restore and conserve this unique landscape.

Rock art is a cultural treasure in Ennedi that needs to be protected and preserved. African Parks expects to conclude its assessment of Ennedi by November 2016 and will shortly thereafter present its recommendations to the Chadian Government for their consideration in establishing Ennedi as a protected area.

The risk of captive carnivores

The Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT) is growing increasingly concerned about the proliferation of captive facilities holding a range of carnivores in South Africa for the sole purpose of tourism and financial gain. We urge the public to consider a few facts when visiting any of these facilities that hold lions, cheetahs, leopards, wild dogs, hyenas and even some exotic (non-native to South Africa) species such as tigers and panthers.

No captive carnivore facility is breeding carnivores for release into the wild, despite what they may claim. Captive carnivores do not contribute to the conservation of free-roaming populations; they are not releasable and do not form part of any registered conservation or management plan for any carnivore in Africa.

In many carnivore facilities, petting and bottle feeding of cubs are offered for a fee. These cubs are often taken away from their mothers to stimulate faster reproduction and provide a constant supply of petting carnivores. Visitors pay to pet the animal and have their photograph taken with it and their slightly older tame carnivore siblings.

These carnivores become human-imprinted; they do not grow up in a natural social group, making it impossible to release them into a natural habitat for the long term. This, coupled with the disease risk posed by captive-bred animals, as well as their potentially dubious genetic lineage, renders them a risk for release to not only themselves but to other free-roaming carnivores.

Frequently, a ‘paying volunteer’ is exploited for further financial gain, with volunteers being told that the carnivore mothers cannot care for their offspring and that once they are old enough, hand-raised carnivores will be returned to the wild.

“There are approximately 6,000 captive lions in South Africa bred for various economic purposes”, as opposed to approximately 2,300 free-roaming in reserves and parks. [Draft Biodiversity Management Plan (BMP) for Lions, 2015]. The BMP defines captive lions as “lions [that] are bred exclusively to generate money. Managers actively manipulate all vital rates and demographics.”

The EWT’s concern relates to the public’s understanding of the role and the purpose of captive carnivores and these facilities in carnivore conservation, and we urge the public to understand better the role of these facilities as well as the risk that these animals may pose to the public:

– Captive-bred carnivores are always more dangerous than their wild counterparts. They lose their fear of humans and associate humans with food providers. Their social structures are heavily interfered with, and their natural cycles are often manipulated. A wild carnivore will usually steer away from humans, but a captive-bred carnivore may not need such caution.

– A facility breeding carnivores will usually have to sell their offspring; it stands to reason that they cannot always have cubs and youngsters if they do not sell ‘excess’ animals.

– The captive-bred lion hunting industry in South Africa has increased rapidly in recent years, and South Africa is increasingly supplying captive-bred lion bones for export to Asian markets.

– The Department of Environmental Affairs released figures in December 2013 that stated that “South Africa officially issued permits for the export of nearly (if not more than) 1,300 dead lions from South Africa to China, Lao PDR and Viet Nam from 2011 to 2012 inclusive.” BMP, 2015.

– “The so-called ‘canned hunting’ industry for lions has also increased in recent years, and the total value generated from hunting captive lions amounted to about R98 million in 2006/2007.” Lion BMP, 2015.

This raises the question: where do all these lions come from or go to? In South Africa, a thriving canned hunting industry can, in many cases, be linked to an equally thriving industry based on cub petting and commercial captive breeding centres.

Some may argue that there is educational value in allowing people to handle wild animals. However, this kind of education provides the incorrect message that wild animals exist for human entertainment, and that they can be petted like domestic animals. They also do not learn much about the natural behaviour, social structure or role of free-roaming carnivores.

It is important to note that captive breeding is not a conservation recommendation for any carnivore species in South Africa. Carnivores breed extremely well in the right conditions. For almost all our threatened carnivore species, the conservation priorities include reducing human-wildlife conflict, securing suitable habitat, reducing illegal offtake and maintaining balanced, functioning ecosystems. Without these in place, captive breeding leads to an over-supply of non-releasable animals which often end up as trophies. We also question whether any funding generated from captive carnivore breeding supports the conservation of free-roaming carnivores.

The EWT does not allege that any specific facility is breeding carnivores for the lion bone trade or for the practice of ‘canned hunting’, but we do urge the public that visits these facilities to ask at the very least these critical questions:

– What is the plan for the long-term future of the animals in this facility?

– Where are the cubs’ mothers?

– Why are cubs not being raised by their mothers?

– What happens to the facility’s cubs when they grow up?

– If they are released into larger wildlife areas, where ate they located, and can the facility provide documentation to prove a viable, ethical and successful release process?

– If the facility is breeding, do they have a management plan that determines responsible husbandry and management of all stock?

– Do any of the ‘stock’ have the opportunity to live out their natural lives, or are they hunted or bred with again?

– What happens to the facility’s surplus animals?

– Can the public inspect the facility’s record books and follow an individual animal’s life cycle?

– If these animals become part of another breeding programme, for what purpose?

The EWT calls for more active participation from the public in questioning the role of all captive carnivore facilities and the management of the animals in their care. We also call on the tourism sector to recognise the role that they may be playing in supporting some facilities that cannot account for the conservation claims that they make.

Lions take up royal residency in Akagera after 15 years absence

After an absence of 15 years, lions have returned to Akagera National Park in Rwanda.

The journey for these seven lions began on the 29th of June in a truck bound from KwaZulu Natal to OR Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg. The cats were accompanied by a team of veterinarians in a chartered plane from OR Tambo to Kigali International Airport. 46 hours later, they arrived in Rwanda and were loaded into trucks and taken to a boma in the north of Akagera National Park.

Excited children and citizens serenaded the pride’s arrival, waving them on their way. Unseasonal rains also greeted the entourage on the route, making the trip a bit longer and muddier than originally expected.

The two males proved timid on release but eventually left the safety of their crates. On the other hand, the females emerged from the crates immediately and began to regroup and explore. The cats were hungry and feasted on a buffalo carcass left in the boma.

The pride will be in the boma for the next 14 days as part of a quarantine process.

The Akagera Park manager and a team of rangers are keeping a watchful eye on the regal felines. It is an exciting time for Rwanda as the return of one of the Big 5 to the park is a monumental leap for conservation and the African safari industry. Akagera National Park is managed by African Parks in partnership with the Rwanda government.

A local baboon troop was the first to discover the presence of the cats – in a series of alarm calls, they notified the rest of the park so hopefully, the buffalo, zebras and giraffes all know what’s coming, as the natural order of life is restored in Akagera.

Increased poaching causes surge in African vulture deaths

An international research team suggests that African vultures will likely qualify as ‘Critically Endangered’ under the International Union for Conservation of Nature’s global threat criteria. Written by: Andre Botha, Manager of the EWT’s Birds of Prey Programme and Co-chair of the IUCN SSC Vulture Specialist Group

In a report published in the scientific journal Conservation Letters, scientists from across Africa, Europe and North America have published the first estimates of decline rates in African vultures on the continent. Their findings show that many national parks and game reserves offer little effective protection to African vulture species.

African white-backed vulture soars — African white-backed vulture in the Maasai Mara National Reserve

Scavengers such as vultures are essential to a healthy ecosystem. Without them, carcasses would be largely consumed by scavengers such as dogs and jackals, which could increase levels of disease transmission with possibly dire consequences for human health.

Hooded vultures vital to curb spread of disease — Hooded vultures in the Maasai Mara National Reserve

Dr Ralph Buij of Alterra Wageningen University highlighted that: “the trade in vulture parts for traditional medicine is particularly widespread in West Africa, where vultures are openly traded at large markets, especially in Nigeria and Benin. As vultures remove large amounts of pathogen-infested meat and other waste products each day, they limit disease spread in rural and urban areas. Ironically, therefore, the trade of vultures for traditional medicine may, in fact, enhance the spread of disease.”

Lappet-faced vultures scavenging — Lappet-faced vultures in the Maasai Mara National Reserve

As long-lived, slow breeders, vultures take several years to reach maturity and typically fledge only a single offspring every one to two years. Yet the study indicates that Africa’s vultures are declining at between 70% and 97% over three generations, a time interval used by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) when assessing a species’ threat status. Since six of the eight species are largely or wholly confined to Africa and are projected to decline by at least 80% over three generations, the study suggests that they are likely to qualify as ‘Critically Endangered’ under the IUCN’s global threat criteria.

Lappet-faced vulture soars over Mockford Farm — Lappet-faced vulture in Limpopo

Dr Darcy Ogada of The Peregrine Fund, National Museums of Kenya, and lead author of the study said: “Large declines of African vultures should ring alarm bells due to their immense ecological importance. Vultures are vital to a healthy environment, especially in Africa, where ‘free’ ecosystem services such as disposing of carcasses and other waste products remain the norm. If we don’t take urgent steps to save these birds, particularly to curtail wildlife poisoning, we should expect long-term consequences for the environment and humans in Africa. What makes our results so concerning is that national parks and game reserves appear to offer these birds very little effective protection. Because vultures are mobile and can easily travel hundreds or thousands of kilometres, decline rates were worryingly high even within protected areas.”

The study’s authors highlight two important distinctions between the Asian vulture crisis and that in Africa. Firstly, the decline rates evident in Africa have been substantially lower than in Asia to date, affording African governments a window of opportunity to head off the environmental consequences of a collapse.

Secondly, while Asian vultures have declined largely due to ingesting the anti-inflammatory drug, Diclofenac, African vultures face multiple threats. They include incidental and deliberate poisoning, the illegal trade in vulture body parts for traditional medicine, killing for bushmeat, mortality caused by power lines and wind turbines, and a reduction in habitat and food availability.

The study suggests that poisoning is the greatest quantifiable threat to Africa’s vultures, accounting for 61% of all reported deaths. African vultures are often the unintended victims of poisoning incidents, in which carcasses are baited with highly toxic agricultural pesticides to kill livestock predators. However, the study also shows that the recent rapid increase in elephant and rhino poaching throughout Africa has led to a surge in the number of vulture deaths recorded, as carcasses have been poisoned specifically to eliminate vultures, whose overhead circling might otherwise reveal the poachers’ illicit activities.

vulture poisoning main threat to species — Poisoned African white-backed vultures on Imfolozi Game Reserve

Dr Ogada added, “The situation requires the resolution of a number of environmental and cultural issues. We propose a range of measures, including more effective regulation of importing and selling agricultural and other chemicals commonly used as poisons. This would benefit not just vultures but all species widely targeted by pastoralists and poachers in Africa.”

According to Dr Munir Virani, the Africa Program Director for The Peregrine Fund, “Saving African vultures from extinction will require unstinting support from African governments. In addition, outreach programs geared toward pastoral communities in East Africa will be critical in ensuring that they perceive vultures as a vital and integral component of ecosystems and economies”.

Lions are in trouble in Namibia

The giraffe was lying on the track with an impressive male lion crouched nearby. It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience for me to see lions on a fresh kill at such close range on the fringes of the Namib Desert in Torra Conservancy. A once-in-a-lifetime experience even for community conservation veteran Garth Owen-Smith, who accompanied us. Written by: Helge Denker

There are 30 known lions in Torra, a communal farmland area, and over 150 estimated in Namibia’s northwest. This specific male’s pride is believed to consist of 14 individuals. The lions are relatively unbothered by vehicles – as many tourists have found on their African safari.

The conservation of these lions is hugely important in the face of rapidly diminishing global lion ranges and numbers. Once widespread, even across parts of Europe and Asia, lions today occur only in fragmented pockets across Africa, mostly in large national parks. However, in Namibia, lion range and numbers are expanding, at least for now. Current estimates indicate between 600 and 800 animals.

Yet Garth Owen-Smith predicts real lion trouble for the northwest and says actions must be taken now to counter it. Garth saw lions starving at the end of the drought of the early 1980s when lion numbers – and drought conditions – were similar to what they are now.

Droughts can be a time of plenty for predators. Lions enjoy favourable conditions because wildlife is concentrated in the few areas where rain has fallen or around isolated waterholes. But game dispersal in search of grazing can also work against the lions, as it did in the early 80s, and will then bring them into increasing conflict with livestock. Today, more people and livestock use the northwest than thirty years ago. Farmers trying to access sparse grazing are forced to move livestock into lion areas.

“People do not want to hear about lions; the lions have made farmers poor,” says Vitalis Florry. Talking with the Torra Conservancy field officer (and livestock farmer), it’s clear that trouble is brewing. In the last two months, one horse, two cattle, three donkeys and 25 goats were lost to lions in Torra. Elephants demolished one of the three lion-proof stock enclosures built with donor funding to reduce conflicts last year. The others work well, but such enclosures are costly and provide only localised relief for farmers facing lion troubles. Lions now range across some 25 conservancies, and the sentiments of communities are similar everywhere: the costs and dangers of living with lions outweigh the benefits.

Lion rangers are employed in several conservancies to help monitor lion movements and reduce conflicts. Their salaries are paid by conservancies, tourism operators and NGOs. But monitoring lion movements in rugged terrain can be near impossible without remote tracking technology. While about a third of the adult lions have been fitted with transmitters, mostly by Dr Philip ‘Flip’ Stander as part of the Desert Lion Conservation Project, the early warning system that remote tracking could enable is currently not active. Funding and manpower are the main problems. Who pays for and maintains the tracking technology? Who sends out warnings to local communities? Flip Stander cannot do all of that alone. Conservation NGO Africat has taken this on in some conservancies but covers only a small portion of lion range.

Most rural communities want to see fewer lions. Actively zoning core wildlife areas helps. But wildlife moves, especially during times of drought. The northwest is marginal wildlife habitat, and wildlife needs to wander and opportunistically use available resources to stay alive – including the odd livestock meal for lions. More must be done to reduce conflicts, but some will always occur and need to be offset by direct returns from lions.

African safari tourism is part of the long-term solution. Yet current tourism contributions are limited. Joint-venture lodges generate most of the returns for communities. Input from the mobile tourism sector is generally meagre. The TOSCO Trust (Tourism Supporting Conservation) is now trying out a system of conservation contributions in a few core areas to help address this.

Trophy hunting is making an important contribution, funding game guard salaries and other conservancy running costs, especially in the many areas without tourism. Yet lion hunting is extremely controversial. Trophy hunters are accused of singling out prime breeding males, skewing population demographics and upsetting pride structures. Desert Lion Conservation Project data shows that significantly more lions are killed by locals than by trophy hunters – without generating any conservation returns. Targeted trophy hunting of selected lions could reduce lion troubles and generate significant conservation revenue. Yet poor practices by some operators reinforce the stigma, and around the globe, pressure is mounting to ban trophy hunting of lions altogether.

There is a new guard of concerned conservationists fighting the cause of the lions and collecting funds for their conservation. The efforts are making an important difference, especially in research, but as long as they remain ad hoc, they offer only short-term relief. If lions are to survive outside national parks for generations to come, more permanent funding streams need to flow directly into conflict mitigation.

Some loss compensation payments are made via the Ministry of Environment and Tourism’s Human-wildlife Self Reliance Scheme. After initial start-up funding from the MET’s Game Products Trust Fund, conservancies pay compensation from their own income, reinforcing the importance of generating direct returns from wildlife.

The concept of wildlife incentives is now being piloted in a few conservancies. Local communities are encouraged to conserve predators (and other problematic species) through payments for wildlife sightings made by tourism operators. The idea includes securing funds from external partners to match tourism operator contributions and is being coordinated by the Natural Resources Working Group of NACSO. This may prove to be a vital, ongoing funding source – if it is embraced.

“Funding needs to be used effectively where it is most needed,” says Russell Vinjevold, who coordinates human-wildlife conflict mitigation for Integrated Rural Development and Nature Conservation and knows of the difficulties of accessing funds to actually make a difference in the field. “The problem is finding a lasting balance between the aspirations of people and the needs of wildlife.”

It all comes down to people and land use – more than money. Lions are dangerous predators that are difficult to live with. That’s why they disappeared from Europe and Asia long ago. That’s why their numbers are dwindling across Africa. That’s why they are not tolerated on commercial farmland in Namibia, why no one wants them in their ‘backyard’. If we want communal farmers to put up with this threat to their livestock and their lives, we need real innovation. We need to stop talking about saving ‘the last of the desert lions’, because we can hardly expect more than 150 lions to coexist with people in the north-west. We must listen to the people out there and help them live with the lions.

South Africa’s street food festival

The street food festival is the city and local cultures come alive, where languages, lives and customs collide ….

Cow cheeks, mielies, samoosas, shisa nyama, bunny chows, gatsbys, rotis and vetkoek will be ready and waiting for the hungry and the adventurous at South Africa’s Street Food Festival on the 26th of July and the 1st of August!

The festival, that started in 2014, attracts some of South Africa’s best street food vendors and will be serving up street treats at the Side Street Studios in Woodstock on Sunday 26 July before making it’s way up north, for the very first time, to Johannesburg at the Hazard Gallery in the Maboneng Precinct on Saturday the 1st of August.

Showcasing many of Cape Town’s favourites, be prepared to chow down on all the goodness that Max Bagels has to offer, the heavily dark brews of The Department of Coffee, Didi’s Burritos little wrapped bundles of joy, the tasty delights from Meisies Kitchen food truck, the unforgettable meat of Southern Smoke and Argies’ proper Argentinean asado.

Whereas in Joburg you can expect to nab something delicious from The Counter, the wonderfully loud and atmospheric Sumting Fresh, the Middle Eastern and African flavours of Tutto Laffa’s yellow food truck, meaty Greek love on a stick from Soul Souvlaki, Maboneng staples Little Addis, saucy nibbles at Ribs, Wings ‘n Things, all the fun that comes with a Braaied Mielie Lady and a Roasted Nut Lady, with Grounded Smoothies to wash it all down.

You will have the opportunity to not only try new things and rediscover classics created with love and crafted care at the street food market but to learn from some of the big names in South Africa’s food industry at the festival’s day-long congress. “By showcasing our South African street food culture, we hope to inspire and empower people to pursue their love for food as a career,” explains Hannerie Visser, Street Food Festival Director.

The day finally culminates in a dinner designed to celebrate African cuisine, prepared by the Max Bagels guys (Matthew Freemantle and Andrew Kai) in collaboration with local African immigrant cooks. On the night you look forward to (depending on availability of produce, of course): Nigerian bitter leaf soup, Malawian grilled tilapia with nsima (pap), Zimbabwean mopani worms, Somali style kid meat stew and Ghanaian plantain milkshakes.

Cape Town Street Food Festival — © Basement Pixels

Book now to taste and learn your way through the South African streets. Admission to the market is free, whereas the conference is R300 and the dinner is R350. Tickets can be booked at Quicket.co.za.

Follow #StreetFoodZA on Twitter and Instagram for regular updates or visit capetownstreetfoodfestival.co.za and Street Food Festival ZA on Facebook for more information.

4 fun facts about the bat-eared fox

Bat-eared foxes are cute and a popular sighting during African safaris. Guides often get asked the following questions about the cute and charismatic bat-eared fox:

Where should I look out for them?

They are fairly common throughout the dryer regions of Southern and Eastern Africa, where they are most often seen foraging at night or in the early morning in warmer months and during the day when the weather turns colder. Bat-eared foxes like to lie in the shade of acacia trees and favour short grasslands and arid savannah. They are often seen where domestic and wild ungulates have extensively grazed, but they venture into tall grass and thick shrub areas if threatened. They dig dens to raise their young and provide shelter from extreme temperatures and high winds. They are highly social, so if you spot one, watch for more.

What do bat-eared foxes eat?

Most bat-eared fox’s diet consists of small invertebrates such as ants, termites, spiders, scorpions and crickets. They will also eat small birds, mammals, reptiles, and even desert truffles.

What are the major threats to bat-eared foxes?

They are killed by larger carnivores such as lions, leopards, cheetahs, hyenas and African wild dogs if they can catch them. Pups are also vulnerable to smaller predators such as the black-backed jackal and the martial eagle. Humans are also responsible for the death of large numbers of bat-eared foxes due to traps and poison intended for predators. They are also hunted for their pelts.

Other threats to the bat-eared fox include diseases such as rabies, canine parvovirus and canine distemper virus, drought, and habitat loss.

Four fun facts about the bat-eared fox:

1. The bat-eared fox has extremely pointed teeth, which enables it to quickly and efficiently chew its meals to aid digestion;

2. They seldom drink water as they obtain most of the moisture they need from their food;

3. Unlike other canids, the male undertakes most parental care duties, while the female forages for food that maintains her milk production;

4. From a farmer’s perspective, bat-eared foxes play a vital role in controlling harvester termite populations, which farmers consider a pest.

A Rock Art Jewel

In 2009 I was commissioned to document a complex rock art panel on the roof of a shelter in a remote area of South Africa’s Drakensberg Mountains. The area is out of bounds to the general public and required me to visit the site on three occasions to capture all the relevant information from the rock surface. During this time, it occurred to me again just how observant and skilful the early San artists were regarding their understanding of paint and implement making. This, combined with the rich and detailed imagery and symbolism they had represented on the rock, made for a challenging and absorbing project. The Christmas Shelter project has definitely been one of the highlights of my painting career, and I owe a great deal of gratitude and appreciation to the people who made it possible.

The-delicate-tracing-process-in-progress-on-site-(1) — The author delicately traces the images on the Christmas Shelter rock face.
The team climbs the slope leading to the Shelter after fire swept through the area. Fire is just one of the elements that adds to the deterioration of Southern Africa’s exposed rock art.
The author colour matching on site. ©Stephen Townley Bassett

Second-visit-to-th-site-after-the-fires-had-swept-through-the-area — The author delicately traces the images on the Christmas Shelter rock face.
The team climbs the slope leading to the Shelter after fire swept through the area. Fire is just one of the elements that adds to the deterioration of Southern Africa’s exposed rock art.
The author colour matching on site. ©Stephen Townley Bassett

Paint and brush material was sourced from animals hunted nearby

Years of weathering and layers of surface deposits, like dust and salts, can obscure detail in the art that is only made clear by close inspection with magnifiers and lighting. The tracing process allows one to capture this detail very accurately. It is a slow and painstaking process and only years of practice enables one to more clearly ‘read’ the often faded imagery. I have often taken visitors to sites where imagery is faded, only to be told they cannot ‘see’ much on the rock. But after time at the site, and with assistance in ‘piecing’ together the faded motifs, they exclaim that they see much more and enthusiastically re-examine other sections of rock they had passed over moments before.
To accurately record the images at Christmas Shelter, I needed to draw from my stock of existing ochres and search for new materials in the landscape. During this time, I shot a blesbok and two ground squirrels. I divided the meat between myself and my staff, and the hair from these animals was a source of paintbrushes that I made and used for the project. I used strands from the tendons of the blesbok’s forelegs to bind the hairs onto wooden paintbrush shafts. The blood, a very good carrying and binding agent for dry pigment, was also used in the paint-making process. Combined with egg and plant juices from certain succulent plants, these two components make a very good paint.

small-Comparison-between-work-in-progress-and-the-actual-painting — Often Stephen would return to the site with the half-completed painting to compare colours and overall appearance to the original on the rock. All marks on the rock within the frame of reference must be acknowledged and recorded. The final product must be the next best thing to the original, a kind of historical document of what has been deciphered from the rock face.
Stephen works on documentary art.
The team hold the documentary art up for comparison with the original panel. ©Stephen Townley Bassett

Work-in-progress---examining-the-stretched-canvas — Often Stephen would return to the site with the half-completed painting to compare colours and overall appearance to the original on the rock. All marks on the rock within the frame of reference must be acknowledged and recorded. The final product must be the next best thing to the original, a kind of historical document of what has been deciphered from the rock face.
Stephen works on documentary art.
The team hold the documentary art up for comparison with the original panel. ©Stephen Townley Bassett

‘I often felt like it was cracking the code of the rock’

Completing the final documentary artwork depicting the Christmas Shelter panel took six months. I spent many hours at the site meticulously tracing the images on the rock face and colour-matching the various hues and tonal variations in the rock. Steps, cracks, undulations and exfoliated segments must be noted and recorded. On occasions, the unfinished work was taken to the site as a work-in-progress comparison to ensure I captured the feel of the rock. I often felt like it was cracking the code of the rock – that is to say, getting the right mix of techniques and colours that would accurately reflect the rock surface I was trying to depict on canvas. Once the code was worked out, I always felt a surge of energy and confidence regarding the way I would tackle the rest of the scene.
The creation of the panel required all my years of skill and experience in documenting rock art. Many different methods and techniques were used to faithfully recreate both the rock background and the imagery that had been placed there.

Christmas-Shelter-documentary-painting — ©Stephen Townley Bassett

A description of the Christmas Shelter Documentary art.
The idea that rock paintings can best be interpreted in terms of the rich cosmology and religious beliefs of the people who did them is a strongly held view by contemporary researchers. Rock paintings, apart from their intrinsic beauty, played an integral and crucial role in the life of these early communities. Through the paintings, communication with the past and the spirit world was possible. The rock surface was seen as a veil between the real world and the spirit world. It was in these two worlds that one animal dominated the minds of the painters more than any other and that was the eland. It was greatly admired and revered by the San and is the most painted antelope in San rock art in South Africa. There are at least 8 clearly definable images of eland in the Christmas Shelter panel. On the left side of the panel, a large eland in red and a human figure, dominate this section. The upper torso and head of the human figure has been painted between the forelegs of the eland. It appears as if the human figure is touching one of the forelegs of the eland. Behind this figure are three nested, ethereal looking male human figures with what appears to be red lines extending from their heads. The San Shaman spoke about a potency boiling up inside him and exiting through the head or neck region. Middle right of the painting there is a beautiful image of an eland from the rear in a foreshortened position. The fat on both eland and San women was believed to have great potency.

Returning to the old ways

I saw my first San painting at 14 and asked questions that many people must ask when seeing the art for the first time: Who made them, how old are they, what do they mean, and what did the artists use to create them? I was with my uncle, ‘Ginger’ Townley Johnson, then. Having lost my father at a young age, I found myself drawn to this adventurous relative. A well-liked, humorous and eccentric man, he had become interested in rock art through his father, Frederick Townley Johnson, who had been looking for rock paintings in the Oudsthoorn district of the Southern Cape since 1910. In time, Ginger and his two friends, Hyme Rabinowitz and Percy Sieff would rediscover and document hundreds of sites throughout South Africa and particularly the Cederberg mountains in the Western Cape. Their work began in the 1950s and continued through into the early 1990s. These records would eventually become part of much larger databases at universities and museums in South Africa.

‘It was the technology behind the paintings that beckoned me most’

One of my uncle’s principal concerns was the art’s vulnerability to natural weathering. Unlike the deep limestone caves of western Europe, where rock paintings are mostly shielded from harsh wind, sun and rain, the majority of sites containing rock paintings in South Africa are in shallow caves or underexposed rocky overhangs. This, coupled with damage to the art by people and livestock, motivated my uncle to develop a method of recording the images onto paper using various techniques. I accompanied him on many field trips and watched him work at rock art sites and his studio in Llandudno. I was fascinated by how he would accurately re-create images we had seen weeks earlier and in rock shelters hundreds of miles away. Of the questions above about art, it was the last one that intrigued me most. While the meaning and age of the images were important to me, questions about the technology behind the paintings beckoned me the most. It came to me very clearly one day that I, too, wanted to continue in my uncle’s footsteps by locating and documenting this fragile and irreplaceable art legacy. However, instead of using commercially available paints as he was doing, I resolved to make my own paints and implements from materials I would collect in the landscape in which I so often walked.

ancient-tools-of-rock-art-2 — Stephen’s painting tools emulate the ancient tools of San artists. ©Stephen Townley Bassett

rock art — Stephen’s painting tools emulate the ancient tools of San artists. ©Stephen Townley Bassett

‘I would need to discard the tools I was using and begin a kind of experimental archaeology’

I found little in written records on how early cave artists made their paintings. If I wanted to show what cave artists might have used to create their art, I should make my own implements and paints and duplicate their paintings using materials and methods that would have been available to them. This meant attempting to think as an early cave artist would have thought. I would need to discard the tools I was using, like pocket knives, spatulas, plastic and metal containers and commercially available brushes, and begin a kind of experimental archaeology. I had already decided to make art my livelihood, and this new path seemed like the beginning of a new adventure. So, apart from using a rifle to shoot an animal, all other processes would be accomplished using what I could find in the veld.
Some mountain slopes yielded various ochres that I could use as a pigment base. Others yielded a dark grey stone that, when struck against another stone, yielded a very sharp cutting edge. A gemsbok horn, when cut into segments with end caps made from the dried scrotums of a grey rhebok, made a good holding vessel for my delicate feather-tipped brushes. A giraffe’s knee cap component makes an excellent, lightweight holding vessel for mixed paint, naturally hollowed small loose rocks make excellent paint pots, and scapulas from animal skeletons bleached white by the sun make good mixing surfaces. The landscape around me became a veritable supermarket for tools and materials.

Colours from rock and bone

I learned that there are four basic pigments that early cave artists had at their disposal. Mineral pigments, such as red and yellow ochres, are iron-rich clays and present as soft or semi-hard rock that can be ground into fine powder to form a durable paint base. The other two pigments are white and black. White comes from white clay, kaolin, raptor droppings or burnt eggshell and bone, and black comes from charcoal and manganese oxide. I divided the painting process into three stages. Firstly, identifying pigments and their manufacture into a workable paint using various binding and carrying agents. Secondly, the collection and/or manufacture of vessels to hold the pigments and mixed paint. Thirdly, an array of implements would enable me to apply the mixed paint to the surface of the rock.

heating-egg-shell-and-bone-for-white — The author heats ochre for yellow pigment.
Heating eggshell and bone to create white pigment. ©Stephen Townley Bassett
The eland antelope featured in several San rituals and ceremonies, such as the eland bull dance, marriage and other rights of passage. ©Chris Hills

‘I have found that different animals yield different quality brushes’

Over the years, I have found that different animals yield different quality brushes, and hair from different parts of the animal can yield different types of brushes. Different brushes would, in turn, have different uses or applications at the rock face. Feather-tipped brushes are not as durable while making good painting implements and do not hold as much paint as a bristle brush. During my rock surface trials, I found that fat and egg make good binding agents. Animal blood and sap from certain plants, such as the euphorbia species, can also bind. In contrast, saliva, water and animal gall are good carrying agents (i.e. they hold the finely ground pigment particles in suspension, allowing the paint to be drawn out on the rock surface).

Flat stones can be used as mixing surfaces or as heating stones. Animal bones, hooves and horns, stone paint pots, and plants (i.e. small calabash) are all important utensils when painting at the rock face.
When confronted with beautifully rendered polychrome roof paintings and tried to do the same with elementary implements like chewed sticks and quills, I realised that more sophisticated implements must surely have been used. These were those ‘Aha…’ moments when one sees things differently. The paint mix and viscosity must be just right; the painting implement should be of such a construction that relatively large amounts of paint could be held in a reservoir of some kind to be released onto the roof of a shelter in the correct manner.

South Africa’s immense rock art gallery

Broadly speaking, South Africa’s geology is a great horseshoe of mountain ranges surrounding a relatively flat hinterland. From the Gifberg mountain ranges in the west to the Makabeng Plateau in the northeast, one can find rock paintings in thousands of caves and rocky overhangs. The Drakensberg mountain range is particularly rich in rock art. With its abundant rainfall and plentiful supply of flora and fauna, San communities inhabited these mountains for thousands of years, and over time there was significant contact and cultural exchange between San groups and Bantu herder communities that moved into the region. This is evident in many aspects, one being language. The clicks in various Nguni-speaking languages originate in contact with San communities.
In 2005 I was fortunate enough to work on a project with an old man named Kerrick Ntusi, who had both Sotho and San genealogy. Kerrick was an initiation leader in his younger days and always wanted to complete a “healing of the land ceremony” for his people and his forbears. He could remember his grandfather painting in a cave in Lesotho, and I was tasked at the time with recording in the paint under instruction from Kerrick, on a sheltering wall in KwaZulu-Natal, the images that he could remember from his birth cave, as part of this ceremony. This was an extraordinary experience for me and one that I will always remember.

Where to see the art

Researchers in other countries, such as Australia, have found that it is better to only open two or three to the public in an area where there may be ten painted sites. These are termed “sacrificial sites”, and although they are both monitored and managed, they nevertheless are susceptible to vandalism by the public. This management policy safeguards the other seven or eight sites that are not open to public viewing. This is the case with Christmas Shelter.
Two primary places of interest for the public to learn about rock art and view it are the Didema Rock Art Centre in the Cathedral Peak area and the Kamberg Rock Art Centre in the Nottingham Road area.
Within two hours walk from the Kamberg Rock Art Centre is the world-famous Game Pass Shelter site open to the public. Visitors must be accompanied by a guide, who one can arrange through the Kamberg Rock Art Centre. On route to Game Pass Shelter, one passes the much smaller Waterfall rock art site, which also contains several rock art images.
Today, the Christmas Shelter documentary artwork hangs at the Rock Art Research Institute at Wits University, Johannesburg. Who knows when more of the panel will exfoliate from the cave ceiling and be lost in the accumulated debris of the shelter floor? The heat from periodic veld fires through the area will certainly accelerate weathering. In some small way, at least a moment in the painting’s life has been captured and is encapsulated behind glass in a building in Johannesburg for visitors to see.
An exhibition, “Tracing the Cosmos – follow the brush strokes of the cave artists”, runs from 24th June to 30th August 2015 at the Origins Centre, Wits University, Johannesburg. The Christmas Shelter artwork will form part of this exhibition.

About the author

STEPHEN TOWNLEY BASSET was born in Cape Town, graduating from the University of Cape Town with a Bachelor of Social Science degree. He is the third generation in his family to be involved in the location and documentation of rock art in Southern Africa and is today a specialist in the field. His primary interests lie in the accurate, full-colour documentation of the art and research into pigments, paints and implements used by early hunter-gatherers of the region. Stephen consults with farmers and landowners on the conservation and management of sites. He is regularly involved in rehabilitating rock art sites and removing graffiti from vandalised sites.

Stephen lives with his wife, Karen, and their two children in Queenstown and has recently relocated his gallery and studio to the town of Cathcart on the N6 between Queenstown and East London in the Eastern Cape province of South Africa. At this studio and gallery, he will set up a display of the pigments, paints and implements both sourced and used for his paintings. Both original artwork and various limited edition art prints will be sold from this location.

Fly SA Express at your peril

Editorial note: Subsequent to this post, SA Express has placed into liquidation – amidst accusations of ineptitude, fraud and corruption.

Open letter to the CEO of SA Express

Dear Mr Ntshanga

I stopped flying SA Express a few years ago after repeat problems, but SA Express was the only option for my recent trip to Hoedspruit. And so, when my outbound flight was delayed and the return flight cancelled, I was instantly taken back to those bad days.

I guess we all expect really bad service from SA Express these days – and your staff seem resigned to that fact. Apart from the resultant stress, extra costs and those stale nuts you import from China, what really incensed me was the arrogance of the way your team deals with these issues and the impregnable wall of protection you have built between yourselves and aggrieved clients. Regarding the delay on the first flight, your staff suggested that I contact the supervisor, who “is currently not available but would be available in 2 days” (2 days after my flight). In the case of the cancelled direct flight to Cape Town and subsequent rerouting on much later flights via Johannesburg, the staff at the airport said they could not help me as they were merely agents, and your call centre advised my personal assistant that “all supervisors are in a meeting and unable to assist”.

Both sets of your staff told me very firmly that SA Express does not refund clients for costs incurred due to changes – even when clients paid a premium for direct flights and did not receive that benefit. That, Mr Ntshanga, is theft.

As to why the changes were made, various SA Express staff advised us that the changes were due to low passenger numbers, but some later blamed technical issues – even pulling the classic “your safety is important to us” line.

When I attempted to contact you directly, your team refused access and shepherded my requests to a PR person, who broadcast the standard corporate-speak at me. I was assured of follow up from your team – which of course never happened. A week later I am still waiting for a resolution.

This country deserves better than this. You and your team are surely generating large amounts of negative equity for our passionate tourism industry. How many of our precious local and international tourists and business people have you and your team left stranded, angry and out of pocket? An informal request to my personal network on Facebook resulted in numerous sad stories of shocking service from SA Express, and refusal to refund costs.

My advice to clients and friends is to avoid using SA Express if they can.

Simon Espley

CEO, Africa Geographic

The Pink Lake

Senegal’s Lake Retba is separated from the Atlantic Ocean by a narrow corridor and is known for its high salt content, up to 40% in places. It is dubbed Lac Rose (Pink Lake) due to its pink waters, the result of Dunaliella salina algae which produces a red pigment to absorb sunlight. The colour is most robUST during the dry season from November to June and less visible during the wet season. Some 3,000 people arrive at Pink Lake from all over West Africa to harvest salt, much of which is used to preserve fish, a staple diet in the region. Images by Nigerian photographer Ayo Obuseh.

ALSO VIEW: Mozambique’s Turquoise Coast

ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHER

AYO OBUSEH was born in Nigeria, West Africa. He became a professional photographer after several years of working internationally as a soldier and an epidemiologist. His African background brings a particular style to his photos. He likes the rural elements as well as the frontal perspectives. Typically Ayo shoots glamorous photographs of families, wild animals in their natural habitat and serene, picturesque environments. His photographs of lakes and ancient structures beneath vibrant skies blast off the screen and page with explosive colours. As part of his photographic portfolio, one may also find sepia-infused works that resonate with an essence of nostalgia. Follow Ayo on Facebook.

Mounting up against poaching in Zakouma

Since man tamed the horse, the majestic animal has gone from a means of transport to a tool of industry and war. Human society has advanced on the backs of horses, but we have since dismounted, finding little use for horses other than leisure. However, in some remote corners of Africa, the horse plays a crucial role in conservation. Perhaps it’s time we mounted up again.
Some wildlife areas are inaccessible by vehicle or plane and are too vast or treacherous for man to patrol on foot. But here, the horse comes into its own, giving conservation professionals and rangers access to areas that would otherwise suffer heavily from poaching. One area, in particular, is Zakouma National Park in Chad, where African Parks, who took over management of Zakouma in 2010, uses local rangers who are natural horsemen to patrol vast areas of the park.

APN_018689_MARCO-LONGARI_Zakouma — A ranger mounts up in Zakoma National Park. ©African Parks/Marco Longari.
A local tribesman at a wedding. ©African Parks/Jean Labuschagne
Local rangers are natural horsemen. ©African Parks/Vanessa Stephens
Zakouma is inundated with water during the rainy season, making horses essential for patrols. ©African Parks/Michael Viljoen

Jean-Labuschagne-wedding-Vanessa-Stephens-Ranger — A ranger mounts up in Zakoma National Park. ©African Parks/Marco Longari.
A local tribesman at a wedding. ©African Parks/Jean Labuschagne
Local rangers are natural horsemen. ©African Parks/Vanessa Stephens
Zakouma is inundated with water during the rainy season, making horses essential for patrols. ©African Parks/Michael Viljoen

Local poachers are natural horsemen, but then so are the park rangers

‘Zakouma undergoes an astounding transformation during the rains when much of the park becomes inundated with water,’ says Darren Potgieter, Field Operations Manager of Zakouma National Park. ‘At this time, most roads become completely impassable to vehicles; headquarters gets cut off from the western part of the park, and other access is severely restricted. There is a critical period at the beginning of the rains and again at the end when it starts to dry up when vehicles cannot get around, but one can still move on horseback. Historically poachers would take this opportunity to penetrate the park on horseback to shoot elephants. During this period, horse patrols are our only means to access and provide the spatial coverage required to protect the elephants.’
Even in the dry season, when foot patrols and vehicle access are possible, horses play an important function in allowing rangers to cover a lot of ground rapidly and with minimal effort. Horses also allow improved visibility to the rider in the long grass. ‘There is also a “fighting fire with fire” element to using horses,’ says Potgieter. ‘The primary poaching threat is from armed horseman, so follow-up, tracking and intervention are best done on horseback.’

APN_011891_Michael-Viljoen_Zakouma — ©African Parks/Michael Viljoen

One horse patrol team is always within earshot of the breeding elephant herd

As part of a wider anti-poaching strategy in Zakouma, the horses have played a vital role in halting the slaughter of what used to be vast elephant herds. In fact, they have been so effective that there has not been one poaching incident in Zakouma for over three years. Horses are also used to track the family herds equipped with GPS satellite collars, and there is always a horse patrol team within earshot of the breeding herd.
Zakouma National Park has four horse patrol teams, together with foot patrol and motorbike patrol teams comprising a total of 70 rangers (52 active in the field, the others are eco-guards, radio operators, drivers, gate guards, etc.) and 32 horses, all Chadian stallions descendent from the Spanish Barb or Berber horse believed to have originated in North Africa during the 8th century when Muslim invaders reached the region.

elephant-herds-zakouma — Part of Zakouma’s remaining elephant population numbering just over 450. They move in a tight-knit, mutually protective herd due to heavy poaching in the past. ©Michael Lorentz
The horse Andrine was donated to the Park by a local clan of the Ouled Rachid tribe. ©African Parks/Zanne Labuschange
Leaders of the clan meet with Park officials to hand over Andrine. ©African Parks

Zanne Labuschagne nomad-stallion-zakouma-ranger-patrols — Part of Zakouma’s remaining elephant population numbering just over 450. They move in a tight-knit, mutually protective herd due to heavy poaching in the past. ©Michael Lorentz
The horse Andrine was donated to the Park by a local clan of the Ouled Rachid tribe. ©African Parks/Zanne Labuschange
Leaders of the clan meet with Park officials to hand over Andrine. ©African Parks

Horses are vital to co-operation between the park and local clans

Local communities are primarily nomadic and have relied on horses for centuries. African Parks has ensured collaboration between the community and the park officials, and horses have played an important role in achieving this. A racing stallion, Horus, was donated by a Chadian businessman and breeder to be used as part of Zakouma’s community program. Horus’s good genes were offered to the nomadic communities around the park, and the stallion covered 49 mares last dry season.
This works both ways. A nomad horse, Andrine, was donated to Zakouma National Park as a token of cooperation from a clan of the Ouled Rachid tribe that spends the dry season in the south of Zakouma. ‘We have community game guards in a similar nomad community to the north of the park that assist the park with patrolling their area on their horses and providing information on a secure digital radio network,’ explains Potgieter. ‘Being in constant contact and collaboration with the park and the rangers brings tangible security benefits and employment to these communities, and this particular group of nomads would like to start the same program in their area, hence the donation of the horse to Zakouma.’ Potgieter says Andrine is a fiery horse and, as is common to this breed, he’s resilient and copes well in tough work conditions.

APN_028121_Vanessa-Stephens — ©African Parks/Vanessa Stephens

Why aren’t horses used more in anti-poaching roles?

It is rare for horses to be used in anti-poaching roles. Among other small programs in Africa, horseback patrols are conducted on the slopes of Mount Kenya, Bale Mountain National Park in Ethiopia and Kruger National Park in South Africa. Horses are being introduced to another African Parks managed area, the Bangweulu Wetlands of Zambia, where, like Zakouma, vast areas are inundated with water. But horses are more commonly used as a way for guests to experience the wild in a thrilling, more natural way.

The expense of the intensive care that horses need and the training of specialist rangers makes using horses in anti-poaching roles prohibitive – unless the area is virtually inaccessible by other means, and the local community are horsemen themselves. In Zakouma, horses have proven remarkably effective, but elsewhere technology has meant we have long since dismounted and left the horse behind. Yet much of that technology has proven ineffective against poaching.
The ranger on horseback can cover far more distance in a far shorter time than a ranger on foot. On a horse, he can manoeuvre through or over obstacles that would stop a vehicle. On a horse, he is a formidable and intimidating presence. One wonders if the expense might be worth using more horses and training more riders as part of a wider anti-poaching strategy. Perhaps it’s time we mounted up against poaching.

Read more about Zakouma National Park in our magazine article Beyond the Infinity Pool.

Contributors

ANTON CRONE quit the crazy-wonderful world of advertising to travel the world, sometimes working, and drifting. Along the way, he unearthed a passion for Africa’s stories – not the sometimes hysterical news agency headlines we all feed off, but the real stories. Anton strongly empathises with Africa’s people and their need to meet daily requirements, often in remote, environmentally hostile areas cohabitated by Africa’s free-roaming animals.

Oiled African penguins and chicks rescued

SANCCOB (the Southern African Foundation for the Conservation of Coastal Birds) is caring for 30 oiled African penguins and four orphaned African penguin chicks at its centre in Cape St. Francis this week.

The birds were admitted from Bird and St. Croix islands off Port Elizabeth, and they will be washed and rehabilitated for the next few weeks until they are ready to be released back into the wild.

Rangers from the marine section of the Addo Elephant National Park rescued these African penguins, air-lifted them via helicopter, and then transported them by road to SANCCOB’s seabird centre. The birds received a few days of intensive care to improve their strength and hydration, and the first batch of oiled penguins, with 50 to 80% of their bodies covered in oil, were washed earlier this week. For the next few weeks, the washed birds will continue to be fed, hydrated and swum to ensure they regain the natural waterproofing of their feathers.

The four African penguin chicks under three weeks old were removed from their nests as their parents were also oiled and rescued. Weighing a mere 500 grams upon admission and with their bodies covered in fluffy down feathers, these chicks will be hand-reared by the SANCCOB Eastern Cape team to ensure that the tiny chicks have everything they need to grow into healthy, fit youngsters.

Thus far, the oiled birds and their chicks have responded well to rehabilitation.

“The ongoing chronic pollution of seabirds is a major concern for SANCCOB. The number of oiled birds captured for rehabilitation rarely reflects the actual impact of chronic oil pollution on seabird populations”, said Juanita Raath, Rehabilitation Coordinator at SANCCOB in Cape St. Francis.

The exact source of the oil that affected these birds is unknown, but it is a well-known fact that hundreds of thousands of seabirds worldwide are affected by chronic oil pollution. There is a significant overlap between the busy shipping lanes around our coast, especially those close to busy harbours (such as Port Elizabeth and the Coega Region), and areas with a high concentration of seabirds (such as Algoa Bay). The illegal and incidental operational discharges from ships, the possibility of wrecks leaking oil, and the seeping from faulty pipelines constantly threaten seabirds along our coastline.

The recent shift in the availability of sardine and pilchard, which is the main source of food for African penguins, has also caused penguins to travel further distances from their breeding locations to find enough food to sustain themselves and their chicks. The extended periods that they are now spending in the water also increase their risk of becoming oiled, as well as reducing the likelihood of them being able to return to the colony if they are oiled.

Addo Elephant National Park manages the only two African penguin colonies in the Eastern Cape, the rangers identify and stabilise all seabirds needing rehabilitation and hand-rearing and transport them to SANCCOB for rehabilitation. SANCCOB is the only organisation mandated by the South African government to respond to oiled seabirds. The oiling of these penguins highlights the importance of maintaining a well-trained team ready to respond to catastrophic events and these ongoing, smaller spills.

A Southern African Mesosaurus site

Mesosaurus fossil with indentations-of-the-dorsal-spinal processes clearly visible

For visitors to Namibia, Mesosaurus Camp should be high on their destination list. Mesosaurus Camp is situated on the farm, Spitzkop, about 40 km outside Keetmanshoop. Massive nests in camel-thorn trees, home to the sociable weaver can be found at the campsite. Written by: Dr Martin Briggs

Quiver trees dot the surrounding hills, and the base of one of these resembles a dinosaur foot grasping the rocks – an analogy to the fossils for which this farm is famous.

The base of a quiver tree, a living fossil, resembling the foot of a dinosaur — The base of a quiver tree – a living fossil resembling the foot of a dinosaur

We were fortunate enough to arrive on a day that Giel Steenkamp was taking a group to view the fossils. Giel stumbled on these reptilian fossils and thought the imprints embedded in the rocks were those of the salamander. However, it took Dr Oelofse of the University of Pretoria to identify them. Dr Oelofse immediately realised that the creatures on Spitzkop Farm predated the salamander and correctly identified them as fossils of the order Mesosauria.

Giel explained how the geological ages affected these parts of Gondwanaland and how it was once covered in water, with swamps populated by reptiles, crabs, fish, and prawn-like creatures. These lived in water mostly no deeper than 35 to 100 centimetres during the late Carboniferous and early Permian ages. Ceratosaurus and Megapnosaurus probably also lived here at a later stage.

Mesosaurus (meaning “middle lizard”) is an extinct genus of reptiles from the Early Permian age. Mesosaurus was long thought to have been one of the first marine reptiles.

Mesosaurus, an amphibian reptile living here about 270 million years ago, was the apex predator of this age and locality and is probably one of the most convincing examples to prove the drifting of continents. The same genus in the same rock formations is found in southern Africa and South America.

Their teeth were too soft to attack larger prey – they were predominantly filter feeders (e.g. plankton). As the waters receded, these inhabitants sank into the mud to be preserved as fossils. Sediment blown into the lake also covered the remnants.

$Mesosaurus fossil with fracture of the middle digit$

Giel takes care to prevent damage to the fossil beds from livestock and the elements. Lifting a protective sheet of corrugated iron roofing, Giel pointed out the grooves delineating a fossil embedded in the Dwyker shale. The spine and limbs of an ancient Mesosaurus were revealed. So detailed was the imprint that indentations indicating the dorsal spinous processes were clearly visible, and even a fracture suffered by the specimen in a toe could be determined in the smooth shale surface.

We learned that the Mesosaurus fossils on Giel’s farm were the oldest reptilian fossils in southern Africa. Another site revealed a Mesosaurus fossil with intact faeces. Although long since turned to stone, this’ coprolite’ still showed vividly as a brown streak. Giel explained that Dr Oelofse determined the diet by examining specimens of this coprolite.

Giel Steenkamp displays a Mesosaurus fossil

Giel, joking that he was another fossil on the farm, spritely opened and closed gates as he led our convoy towards a kopje where quiver trees grew in abundance. The stem of the quiver tree is a living fossil, consisting mainly of fibre, proficient at storing water. Giel enlightened us as to the origin of the name and showed us how the Bushmen made quivers for their arrows by removing the fibrous innards of a branch. Closing one end of this ‘tube’ with a pelt resulted in a perfectly hollowed receptacle, or quiver. Small flowers appear in May, June and July in the canopy of leaves. Giel explained that, as one would expect, the leaves of this aloe are bitter, and kudu will occasionally reach up to feed on the canopy. This is possibly because of the anti-parasitical properties of the sap; early stockmen added these leaves to livestock water troughs, maintaining that parasites, such as ticks, would be suitably dislodged. The forest of quiver trees grew amongst stacked dolerite boulders, and Giel explained that the dark colouration was magnesium oxide, while iron oxide formed the lighter colours. Locally, these pigmentations are known as ‘desert varnish’.

Elephants to roam between Knysna and Addo?

An elephant still roams the Knysna forest in South Africa – she has been seen on rare occasions. About 500 kilometres east lies Addo Elephant National Park, a primary tourist destination and home to more than 600 elephants.

Not many people remember that these two elephant groups were once connected: just 200 hundred years ago, elephants moved freely between Knysna’s Garden of Eden and Addo. Human presence and settlements have put a stop to this migration path.

The NGO, Eden to Addo, has been working tirelessly since 2006 to make this migration a reality again. To undertake such epic work, Eden to Addo focuses on developing ecological corridors between existing protected areas: the Garden Route National Park, the Tsitsikamma National Park, the Baviaanskloof World Heritage Site and Addo Elephant National Park.

Such corridors consist of privately-owned land: the agglomeration of landowner partners allows communication between these areas, thus enforcing biodiversity and ensuring ecological processes and connectivity for species. The organisation has already successfully developed corridors between the Garden Route National Park and the Robberg Peninsula and between the Tsitsikamma National Park and the Baviaanskloof World Heritage Site. Current work is focusing on the Springbokvlakte, between the Baviaanskloof and the Addo Elephant National Park, where thousands of springboks used to roam.

The area Eden to Addo cares for is the most bio-diverse in the world: it includes five different biomes of South Africa’s seven. Among these, mistbelt forest might be one of the most fragile because of its fragmentation during European settlement. The fynbos biome also lies within the area and hosts over 9,000 plant species. The corridor includes the Nama Karoo and Succulent Karoo, offering the visitor a sensation of deep immersion in nature.

Such diversity makes the corridor a stunning area to see and hike in. Eden to Addo initiated an annual Great Corridor Hike in 2006 to raise funds and achieve its mission. It starts in the Garden Route and ends in the Addo Elephant National Park – 20 days and 450 kilometres later. This slack pack adventure allows you to witness Eden to Addo’s conservation work while experiencing beautiful wilderness areas, including those exclusive to Eden to Addo.

Hiking the Great Corridor is an opportunity not to be missed. It enforces the dedication of Eden to Addo’s work: protecting nature from Man’s impact without excluding him from his natural common heritage.

The next Eden to Addo hike is taking place from the 3rd to 23rd of September 2015. Find out more details here.

It’s hard to be a man

The male initiation ceremony of the Xhosa people of South Africa, Ulwaluko, is an age-old tradition. It’s a mystical, secretive ritual that occurs far away from the eyes of the public. The only information non-participants and non-family members ever have about it is the disturbing death toll from what the newspapers call botched circumcisions. As a result, there is pressure from some quarters to ban the custom altogether.
And, as winter approaches and a new crop of abakwetha are preparing to ‘go to the mountain’ to earn the right to call themselves men, the controversy is bound to resurface. But, having spent the 2014 winter season filming a documentary with three abakwetha, I can testify that the ceremony is a test of courage and is much more than a circumcision ritual.

Banning it is a ridiculous notion. Ulwaluko is fundamental to Xhosa life

I think banning it is a ridiculous notion. Ulwaluko is fundamental to Xhosa life, but it’s not a rigid, inflexible ritual. It changes with the times. For example, the abakwetha no longer actually go to the mountains, but somewhere close by yet cut off from the village. And the seclusion period is much shorter. When 63-year-old Bangile Pakamile went through initiation he was away for six months, and his younger brothers, who are in their forties, spent three months in seclusion. Now their sons Sandile and Anathi, and their close friend Lulama, will spend one month in the bush.
There are two seasons for the Ulwaluko – winter and summer. Despite village elders murmuring, ‘we had it harder’, the month in the bush is not easy, particularly in winter. Every boy knows the inherent dangers – the number of deaths mounts up on the front pages like a recurring nightmare. Indeed, by the time Sandile, Nathi and Lulama had safely stepped out as new men, 39 initiates had died in the Eastern Cape, and more than 300 had been hospitalised.

building-boma — The adults of the community build the hut in which the initiates will live for the month of the ceremony. ©Richard Bullock

124A9905 — The adults of the community build the hut in which the initiates will live for the month of the ceremony. ©Richard Bullock

The number of deaths mount up on the front pages like a recurring nightmare

The initiates, known collectively as abakwetha or individually as umkwetha, surrender their names. Their clothes are shredded in the days leading up to their exclusion, and they carry a short stick with a white cloth tied to one end. Women cut dry grass for thatching while men chop down flexible saplings. Dressed in traditional clothing, the adults construct a domed dwelling called iboma that will serve as the home for the abakwetha. Each of the customs is intricate and detailed, but there is no instruction booklet, so the men constantly remind each other of the many important details as the preparation continues.
The structure is surrounded by a symbolic barrier of thorn branches with a single entry and exit point. One member of the construction crew accidentally stepped across the thorn branches and was scolded by one of the elders. His indiscretion was probably due to ceremonial brandy rather than a failure to adhere to traditional guidelines. Alcohol has woven its way into every stage of the ceremony. Where traditional beer known as umqombothi might have once served a role, brandy and Castle Lager have been added. I find myself included in this custom, and a bottle of brandy is requested from me. All those present contribute in one way or another. The greatest contribution comes from the parents of the initiate. By my calculations, it costs somewhere in the region of ZAR10,000 (US$900) to put a boy through the initiation. There are cows and at least two goats to slaughter, traditional blankets, a month’s worth of food, traditional surgeon fees, overseer fees and food and drinks for parties. And the brand new smart clothes worn at the end of the month can cost in excess of ZAR2,000 alone. It’s a significant burden on already financially stretched families.

Buttons with no holes

John Pakamile, a 20-year veteran overseer of the initiates, tells me that the early white settlers brought two things to the Xhosa people. Alcohol and buttons with no holes. I sat dumbfounded, pondering ‘buttons with no holes’. John laughed at me and said: ‘We had everything we needed. Fresh water from the rivers, wild animals to hunt, livestock and gardens – what use did we have for money?’
For rural people far away from industrial and commercial centres, making ‘buttons with no holes’ is a constant struggle. But despite the economic hardships, many live full and dynamic lives filled with humour, warmth, love and generosity. It is a close community, and participation in the Ulwaluko involves every member of the wider family group and friends. While elders ensure practices are correctly adhered to, five or six younger boys will be in constant attendance at the abakwetha. Delighting in their role as inqalathi, the young boys chop wood from the nearby forest and begin making a pile of firewood outside the entrance to the iboma.

To comply with regulations governing traditional circumcision initiates must be at least 18 years of age and must present written parental or guardian consent to the central office of records for initiates. The initiates, the traditional surgeon, and the overseer must all be registered and have the necessary permits. There are actually traditional police who visit during the season demanding the official papers, which are kept in a plastic sleeve and tucked up into the thatching of the iboma. Failure to comply may result in fines and/or prison.
At the office of records, we met with the traditional surgeon. Although the circumcision is still done with an assegai (spear), I am assured by John that hygiene standards are rigorous. For two initiates, the spear has two sharp blades, one on each end. For three initiates, the surgeon brings two spears. The surgeon is an outsider who only appears for the removal of foreskins. He attends to all the initiates in the area and, thankfully, is not a participant in alcohol-related rituals at any time.

Kraal-cooking-xhosa — While the initiates prepare to face the surgeon, the community prepares a feast to strengthen them for the trials to come. ©Richard Bullock

Going to the mountain

When the big day arrives for Sandile, Anathi and Lulama there is a huge gathering at the family homestead. The abakwetha are stripped naked and ushered inside the family kraal (traditionally a collection of huts within an enclosure). They sit on the bare ground draped in grey blankets while a cow and goat are slaughtered. There is a great deal of alcohol consumed by those in attendance, especially the old men who sit looking on from a semi-circle of chairs. Axes and knives flash in the winter sun as the animals are butchered, cooked in big pots, and then rapidly consumed by all.
All the while, in the swirl of dust, blood and noise, the abakwetha sit quietly with heads bowed in submission while attending men explain what is to come and what is expected of them. Their heads and pubic hair are shaved. They are offered choice cuts of goat and cow and encouraged to fill up.

surfer-xhosa — Top: In normal times, the boys are avid ocean surfers near their village in Chintsa. Bottom: During the long cold nights and days, little helpers look after the initiates by collecting wood and stoking the fire in their hut. ©Richard Bullock

inqalathi-stoking-fire — Top: In normal times, the boys are avid ocean surfers near their village in Chintsa. Bottom: During the long cold nights and days, little helpers look after the initiates by collecting wood and stoking the fire in their hut. ©Richard Bullock

They find the surgeon waiting for them in the bush with spear in hand

At dusk, all the men rise and encircle the abakwetha, singing an immensely powerful song. They slowly shuffle and dance along the road while the entire village ululates and shouts. The energy in the group feels edgy and somewhat dangerous. The men carry an assortment of sticks, and small scuffles break out as they near the edge of the village. Suddenly the three abakwetha drop their blankets and run for their lives as the men tear after them, shouting and wielding their sticks. It must have their teenage hearts beating out of their chests.
Having escaped one terror, they find the surgeon waiting for them in the bush with a spear in hand. They sit down with legs apart, and a rapid single cut from the assegai removes the foreskin. The boys make no sound; they don’t flinch, stoic bravery being an important part of this and the hurdles to come. Their wounds are dressed with a medicinal plant called izichwe and tied with a leather thong around their waists. There is only a small group in attendance, and in the fading light, I can just see one of the boys’ shoulders rise as the thong is pulled taut, but he makes no sound.
The white cloth tied to the stick that they carried is thrown high into the air, a signal that it is done. A collective cry from the village follows – it is the last time the women will see or hear anything of the abakwetha for a month.

John-oversees-the-correct-application-of-river-clay — John oversees the correct application of river clay. ©Richard Bullock

Seven days of pain and hunger

The abakwetha are understandably in great pain and discomfort for the first few days. They eat only half-boiled maize and no water for seven days. They have a blanket and a little straw between them and the cold earth. The little inqalathi are their lifesavers keeping the fire burning through the night. It’s freezing cold, and the abakwetha lie with their knees raised, progressively weakening as the days go by.
Their overseer John Pakamile shows them how to dress the wounds with ischwe leaves, visiting them up to four times a day during this critical time. After five days, John covers their faces, arms and legs in the white clay of the initiate. It is supposed to keep them warm and protect their skin from the sun, but no deeper meaning is forthcoming. The initiates must keep up this application of white clay or be punished. They are also given beautiful white blankets with red stripes and sit silently in the sun as John delivers the next set of instructions.

xosa-circumcision-boma-comp — The initiates are in pain for days after their circumcision. A meagre diet of maize and no water for seven days also adds to their fatigue to the extent that they find it difficult to stand. ©Richard Bullock

day-7-without-food — The initiates are in pain for days after their circumcision. A meagre diet of maize and no water for seven days also adds to their fatigue to the extent that they find it difficult to stand. ©Richard Bullock

It will be two days before they are allowed water. They appear thin and weak. They tell each other stories to avoid boredom and talk about food often. Their jaws hurt from grinding half-cooked maize.
They must show vigilance in their actions. After dressing the wounds, John makes them hold the water bottle for him to wash his hands. Even though they are dying of thirst, they never complain.
They are so weak on the morning of the seventh day they can barely stand. What were once three vigorous teenagers now appear like old men, hunched over their sticks. They hardly talk as they slowly apply white clay to their bodies before leaving the iboma. A goat is slaughtered outside, and the men in attendance drink ceremonial brandy in the warm winter sun. The abakwetha are given great spoonfuls of maize meal and sour milk followed by hunks of broiled goat. Their personalities and vigour return; they begin to laugh, tell jokes and even dance.
In the following days, they go for walks to collect leaves for dressing their wounds. The big stiff leaves are rolled between two bottles to soften them for comfort. I tried to help by collecting leaves and, on offering some to Sandile, he looked at them and said, ‘Not big enough, Rich.’ I don’t think he meant to joke; he just needed bigger leaves than I would.

in-red-and-white-blanket — After their initial seven days of meagre food and no water, the initiates are given better food and colourful blankets, which help keep them warm. Below, an initiate puts fresh leaves on his wound while a visiting friend texts on his cell phone. ©Richard Bullock

Initiates-cut-the-wood-for-last-night-party-for-old-men — After their initial seven days of meagre food and no water, the initiates are given better food and colourful blankets, which help keep them warm. Below, an initiate puts fresh leaves on his wound while a visiting friend texts on his cell phone. ©Richard Bullock

The seclusion, suffering and pain represent the trials of life

There are two other iboma built across the hills where six more abakwetha are undergoing the Ulwaluko. We went for a long walk to see how they were doing. Their iboma is very impressive. I later find out one of the boy’s fathers works for a thatching company and that he used old thatch and poles. These initiates are attended by a gaggle of their inqalathi. These micro-lumberjacks scale the thorn trees and work their machetes to keep firewood coming.
As the days pass slowly, the abakwetha walk in the hills chopping wood, teasing the inqalati and following their strict regimen. By day 20, their spirits are high. They dance, stick fight and hunt for rabbits in the bush. Their little helpers continue to devastate the thorn tree population.
The inqalathi are learning all the time. They watch all the ceremonies and learn the ‘language’ of the abakwetha, taking in with some trepidation what their rite of passage will require when it is upon them.
The verbal transfer of knowledge seems secondary to the symbolism. The seclusion, suffering and pain represent the trials of life; it is the process that matters, not what is said. It is a test of personal character and fortitude. Of course, no boy should needlessly die, but I wonder if the Xhosa people would place such a high value on the ceremony if there were zero chance of fatalities.

Xhosa — Initiates visit another group one hour’s walk away through the bush. ©Richard Bullock

I won’t go to Makiwane

The abakwetha sing a beautiful song about their ordeal. Patrick, one of the inqalathi, translates it for me. While the backing singers repeat the phrase ‘It’s hard to be a man’, Lulama, who has a higher voice, sings the guidelines of the abakwetha. In particular, one verse is repeated: ‘I won’t go to Makiwane, no, no, no, it is not the time for Makiwane. Be quiet little boy; it’s hard to be a man.’
Cecilia Makiwane Hospital is a public hospital on the outskirts of East London. I asked them what it would take for one of them to go to the hospital. Sandile points his finger at the ground of the iboma and says, ‘We will never go. We would rather die here than go to the hospital.’

‘We will rather die here than go to hospital’

Meanwhile, the death toll for initiates stands at 35 in the Eastern Cape for this winter season, and there is still a week to go. This reluctance to seek outside help is one of the key reasons so many initiates die, but some overseers act responsibly. Last year pneumonia spread amongst initiates nearby. The supervisor blamed bad spirits in the iboma, and got all the boys proper medical attention. When they were well again, they returned to another iboma, away from the previous site. A smart application of spiritual beliefs saved the boys’ lives – and upheld tradition.

Stick-fighting — Little boys sneak a surf magazine in for the initiates. Below, with their strength and testosterone returning, the initiates play at stick fighting. ©Richard Bullock

I have often filmed the abakwetha carrying out the morning ritual of applying white river clay. Today, perhaps through boredom, they adorn Anathi’s back with a giant NIKE logo – another strange clash of the traditional and the new. Lulama gets Zebra stripes on his back, and Sandile gets his girlfriend’s name. It seems rebellious. I dread to think how many whacks of the cane John might give them if he sees the NIKE logo. Maybe he won’t mind. Understanding the taboos is a minefield, and perhaps that’s the idea – to keep the abakwetha on their toes.
Their mood is high at this stage, and they count the days towards the 12th of July. I have taken to showing them videos of my children in Sydney. We all laugh; they see Charlie’s fourth birthday cake and are stunned as if they have never seen anything so amazing.

Boys to men

John and his youngest son cut palm leaves that they bend into three crowns for the initiates as a symbol that their homecoming is near. Their heads are freshly shaved, and John instructs them to shave the head of one of the inqalathi, ten-year-old Athiti. It is an honour for him, as he will serve as a mascot over the coming two days. He will lead the procession back to the village and participate as if he were an umkwetha himself.
On their final day in the bush, the abakwetha and inqalathi work hard, chopping a huge stockpile of wood. Men build a bonfire outside the iboma and play a traditional initiation game called ceya through the night. It’s played with short and long twigs concealed in each hand, accompanied by what seem to be impersonations of animals, and spirits with strange clicks and squeals. In the firelight, the wild gesticulations, explosive laughter and warmth between the men of all ages is magical. How long have men played ceya by the fire under the spectacular African night sky?

At dawn, John leads the abakwetha to the river. Before entering the water, they pay homage to the ancestors by daubing river clay on their foreheads, then they stand knee-deep and carefully wash all remnants of white clay from their bodies. In the cold morning light, they head back to camp naked. Bangile, the eldest of the Pakamile family, covers their bodies in butter. He then covers them in coloured blankets, leaving them just a tiny peephole through which they hold their black sticks.
Forming a single line behind young Athiti, they shuffle away from the iboma, where the men break into song and set the hut alight. Within minutes it is a fireball; all the trappings of the last month incinerated. The abakwetha do not look back as they walk on, followed by dozens of men, young and old. As they move through the village, women ululate, and small children join the group. When they reach the Pakamile homestead, the women beat sticks onto a corrugated iron sheet.

The boys sit outside the kraal, the little mascot Athiti at one end and an older man at the other, representing the generations. Seated around the boys are more than a dozen old men. Each of them stands to impart words of wisdom to the abakwetha. After each speech, a symbolic offering of one or two Rand coins represents the first step on a much larger journey. All I can think about is buttons with no holes.
After the speeches, the initiates are moved inside, surrounded by friends and siblings. Two girls enter and transform the boys by painting their faces with red ochre and wrapping their heads with black and white cloth. From being amakhwetha the initiates have become amakrwala. Finally, they begin to relax their stoic demeanour.
The following day, after a hearty breakfast of soup, vegetables and meat, the three amakrwala are escorted to Lulama’s rural home, a beautiful spot overlooking a pristine valley.

Amakrwala-stage — Back in their community after a month, the initiates’ faces are painted in dark red ochre. ©Richard Bullock

As a thank you to the overseer and the people of Chintsa village, the family slaughter a pig for their guests and mark the occasion with more brandy and beer. While family members sit in the morning sun, men butcher the pig and cook it on the open fire. The amakrwala sit in the grass, and Lulama sees his siblings for the first time in a month. At a certain point, John ushers him into a hut. Lulama washes and bathes his whole body while standing in a large enamel dish. He finally reappears in brand-new Western clothes. Lulama’s face is then smeared with a brownish paste to mark the final stage of the transition.
The entire group then travels back to Chintsa village. Sandile and Nathi wash and dress in smart flat caps, jackets, pressed trousers and leather-soled shoes. Bangile, the oldest man, embraces them and warmly slaps them on the back. There are brief speeches and ceremonial brandy shots, and it is finally over. They walk out of the hut and take their first steps on the long journey of life as men.

It’s hard to be a man

Not once did I witness fighting, drinking or disobedience from the abakwetha. Likewise, the adults in direct supervisory roles performed their duties skillfully and responsibly. Because the tradition isn’t written down or uniform across the Xhosa nation, I am sure the ceremony has many variations. I suspect the deaths and mutilations may result from badly run initiation schools. Perhaps because I have witnessed a school run well, I am biased, but people from my culture circumcise babies and voluntarily risk their lives with breast augmentation and nose jobs. We are quick to judge traditional cultures and even quicker to forget our similarities.
I loved the warmth and comfort shown by the community of men. I have never sat in communion around so many fires and seen children and adults work together so effortlessly for a common cause. All had their role, and all had respect for each other. I was shown incredible kindness and understanding and was never questioned about my presence or purpose. They trusted me. The long ceremony gave me the time to ponder my own role as a man, something Westerners like me blunder into via alcohol-fuelled 21st birthday parties.
When I asked the abakwetha why they had to go through all this, they replied: It’s hard to be a man. You can’t buy or be given it; you must be it. You have to endure pain, hunger and hardship. When times get tough in your life, you know you got through your initiation, so you can get through whatever challenge you face.

ALSO READ: Himba – a people in transition

Contributor

Richard Bullock with the Xhosa initiates he filmed and wrote about.
Australian-born RICHARD BULLOCK began his professional life as an advertising copywriter in Sydney with Chiat/Day/Mojo. This was followed by a long stint at TBWA Hunt Lascaris in Johannesburg South Africa, where his love for the African continent took hold. Along with his South African wife, Richard travelled and worked worldwide, often returning to their second home in Chintsa on South Africa’s east coast. In 2004 he began writing and directing film projects for clients. Eventually, he crossed over from advertising to directing full-time, helming projects globally for Adidas, Sony, Amnesty, Omega, Motorola and many more. One of his unique talents is directing projects in remote and sometimes difficult locations. He has shot films about climate change in Peru, eye surgery in Mongolia, heart disease in Rwanda and plastic surgery in South Africa. His long-form films have run on the National Geographic Channel, Eurosport and the BBC. One of his latest projects involved documenting the controversial Xhosa circumcision ritual near his Chintsa home. You can see Richard’s film work here.

Putting right the black mamba’s reputation

The infamous black mamba is a snake with an unfortunately bad and arguably exaggerated reputation. It is the most feared snake in Africa and is known for being highly aggressive and thought to attack without hesitation. However, this is not quite true. Written by: Nick Evans

Black mambas are majestic animals that are incredibly strong and intelligent. They are alert snakes with a keen sense of sight. Also, they have a fast metabolism to digest prey quickly.

During the day, they actively hunt on the ground and in trees. They’re excellent climbers and often bask in the sun from the treetops in the morning. Their diet consists mainly of rodents and other small mammals, birds and reptiles.

The way that black mambas kill their prey is quick and efficient. They strike the animal, injecting it with their potent, fast-acting neurotoxic venom. They then wait and let the venom do its work. The bitten animal dies shortly after being envenomated. The mamba then starts working its jaws around the dead animal and swallows it whole.

Contrary to popular belief, black mambas are also not actually black. They usually have a grey or light brown colouration with a white underbelly, which turns a shade of black towards the tail. Their name comes from the inside of the mouth, which is pitch black.

Black mambas are not nearly as aggressive as they are made out to be. If disturbed, they tend to flee rather than fight. They are one of the world’s fastest-moving snakes, so they can disappear in seconds.

If threatened, they will raise their heads off the ground, spread their narrow hood, and gape at the threat, thus showing off the pitch-black inside of their mouth. This serves as a warning sign and can prove to be intimidating enough. Humans have this warning to be thankful for, as a bite can kill a human quicker than most other snake species.

Claims have been made that mambas can raise themselves high enough to stare at human eye level. While they can rise high up off the ground, possibly to chest height, this is a rare occurrence, and they usually disappear long before they need to take this line of defence.

If you ever encounter a black mamba in the wild, try to appreciate and enjoy the sighting. Admire its beauty and watch how it moves through the bushveld. There’s just no other snake quite like a black mamba.

The creatures of the Boland caught camera traps

South Africa’s Boland mountain chain (stretching from Bainskloof in the north down to the Kogelberg coast in the south) is a key geographical landmark in the Western Cape. And camera traps are helping to appreciate its biodiversity. By: Jeannie Hayward & Anita Meyer of The Cape Leopard Trust Boland Project

Hundreds of thousands of people see the Boland mountain chain from a distance every day, and tens of thousands more live and farm on its slopes, enjoy Cape wildlife safaris and use it for hiking and mountain biking. And yet one of these mountains’ most important original inhabitants – the leopard – remains unknown to most of these people.

Many suitable leopard habitats in the Boland are located on private reserves and farms adjacent to the core mountain reserves. The involvement and support of private landowners – especially concerning access to their land to place camera traps – is pivotal to the success of the Cape Leopard Trust Boland Project.

The Boland Project coordinators, Jeannie Hayward & Anita Meyer, continually promote public participation in their research. One way of doing so is encouraging private landowners to purchase their own camera traps and submit their data to the project.

Another way is to get private persons or groups to sponsor camera traps, and then be involved in deploying and servicing the equipment should they so wish.

The Boland Project has finite resources, and the involvement and support of landowners and sponsors is invaluable. Through the participation of landowners in this manner, the Boland Project has been able to confirm the presence of leopards on isolated mountains like Simonsberg and Paardeberg and to continually monitor known leopards and record new individuals in areas where the Cape Leopard Trust camera traps are not currently active.

Another benefit of camera trapping on private land is the spontaneous sense of stewardship that arises from obtaining photos of secretive and nocturnal wildlife since this makes biodiversity a tangible and marketable reality.

The Boland team has assisted with many public enquiries on the best camera models to purchase and how to deploy a camera trap successfully.

It is also heartening to note that individuals who learn of and buy camera traps without any initial contact with the Cape Leopard Trust Boland Project are also increasingly sharing their leopard photo data with the project when they learn of the importance and relevance of these data, thereby broadening the reach of the project and supporting predator research and conservation.

Included here are just some of the Boland mountain creatures that these cameras have photographed.

Turtles – ninjas of the Deep

For 52 years, scientists and conservation staff have walked, driven or ridden tens of thousands of kilometres on one of the most beautiful and unspoilt stretches of beach in the world in search of sea turtles. This area is now contained within the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, which became South Africa’s first natural world heritage site recognised by UNESCO in 1999.

Turtles — Leatherback turtle nesting on the Maputaland coast. ©George Hughes

Loggerhead-hatchling-and-leatherback-hatchling-Maputaland-1974--GRH-Collection-303ae — Loggerhead hatchling (left) and leatherback hatchling. ©George Hughes

Turtles played a part in changing the conservation status of the coast

This achievement was not an accident. In 1963, when the Natal Parks Board first became aware that sea turtles nested on the coast of what was then commonly referred to as Tongaland, the entire coastline had no conservation status and received scant attention from the Department of Bantu Administration, which controlled the area. All that has changed, thanks partly to the two wonderful species of sea turtles that emerge every summer to lay eggs in the warm, golden sand.

By the end of the Second World War, when global concern about the potential loss of wildlife species was first being raised and the formation of international conservation efforts was under consideration, there is little doubt that the outlook for sea turtles was bleak indeed, and informed opinion was that they were headed for extinction. So the 1963 discovery in South Africa of two species of nesting sea turtles – the loggerhead turtle (Caretta caretta) and the leatherback turtle (Dermochelys coriacea) – was cause for celebration. And the resulting conservation effort has more than justified this surge of optimism.
Absolutely nothing was known about these turtles then, so conservationists and biologists started – hesitantly at first – researching their biology, life cycles and distribution.

The Loggerhead

The most common of the two species nesting here is the loggerhead. Over the past 52 years, thousands of tagging hours have shown that loggerheads nesting in Maputaland range through some fifteen million square kilometres of the western Indian and South Atlantic Oceans. It is now known that they are long-lived, perhaps surviving as long as 80 to 100 years and that they nest many times each year, laying over 400 eggs per season. They can repeat visits over 37 years, varying the intervals between nesting seasons according to their ability to withstand and recover from the heavy physiological strain of a nesting event.

Populations rose from barely 200 to more than 1,000 loggerheads

Very few turtles were found in the early years, barely 200 per season, possibly because of steady attrition by poaching, which was then very common in Mozambique, but more probably as a result of the excessive collection of eggs by the local amaThonga people living close to the beaches. All this was stopped in 1963 and since then, to the delight of scientists and conservationists alike, the number of visiting females has steadily and exponentially increased until, at present, more than 1,000 nesting animals are seen annually. This success has facilitated the growth of tourist lodges and turtle guiding concessions, some of which are managed and run by the local amaThonga people who have long recognised the greater value of a thriving turtle population over an extinct one.

There can be no greater reward for conservationists’ effort and commitment than clear proof that a population is drawing away from the brink of extinction. The South African programme was the first in Africa, inspiring neighbouring countries to join the campaign. So today the shared population of loggerheads is increasing in Mozambique, where it is also becoming significant.

The Leatherback

The leatherback response to conservation has been positive but not as spectacular as that of the loggerhead. From an all-time low of only six female leatherbacks seen in 1966, the number rose to as many as 160 in the 1980s – but it has subsequently dropped to between 60 and 100 females per season.

The recorded inter-season movements of leatherbacks fitted with satellite transponders have been eagerly followed. These truly pelagic animals move freely between the Indian and Atlantic Oceans, feeding only on jellyfish and returning to their home beach to lay eggs after varying intervals. Although they can lay up to 1,000 eggs in any one season, the increase in population has been disappointingly slow, possibly because of the many hazards they face as they travel up to 20,000 km a year through the open ocean. As well as the many natural dangers inherent in long ocean migrations, turtles also face the very real risk of being killed by long lining and drift netting.

Fewer than 2 of every 1,000 survives to continue the species

One exciting and valuable long-term research result came from the programme designed to establish the destinations of newly-hatched loggerhead turtles and the age at which the survivors return to the natal beaches as nesting adults. Over about 31 years, some 350,000 hatchlings were caught, marked and optimistically released into the ocean off the Maputaland coast. With the excellent cooperation of the media in the early 1970s, this programme soon demonstrated that the little turtles enter the powerful Agulhas Current in which they drift south at speeds of up to 100km a day, with some reaching Cape Agulhas – 1,600 km away – in 16 days.
Over the past decade, recovery of adult females bearing evidence of having been marked as hatchlings has made it possible to ascertain that the average age of nesting maturity is 36 years and suggests that fewer than 2 out of every 1,000 hatchlings entering the sea survive to continue the species.

The South African programme has had many spin-offs of benefit to sea turtles and has inspired other Indian Ocean nations to monitor their turtle populations. French scientists based in Réunion Island have expanded the research programme started in 1970 by a South African researcher to include observation of the green turtle (Chelonia mydas), which nests on the islands around Madagascar.
A successful satellite programme that monitors sub-adult loggerheads passing Mauritius, Réunion and Rodrigues has shown that South African loggerhead hatchlings travel thousands of kilometres in the southern Indian Ocean gyre, eventually reaching the South Equatorial Current, where they mix with many more thousands of loggerhead hatchlings originating in Oman. Together they sweep back towards Madagascar, eventually splitting into two separate groups – one going north to return to their home beaches of Oman and the other turning south to add their genes to the South African populations. These amazing journeys start when the little turtles are only 45mm long.

Their amazing journeys start when they are a mere 45mm long

Annual counts indicate that many turtle populations in the southwestern Indian Ocean are increasing. Although some growth records are slower than others, the trends are positive. The World Heritage status accorded to the iSimangaliso Wetland Park – a popular African safari destination – recognises and rewards the committed protection of the turtles of the Maputaland coast by South Africa. There should, however, be some sort of reward and recognition of an animal that can start life as such a tiny, vulnerable baby, travel such extraordinary distances, spend so long exposed to the numerous dangers of the open ocean, and repeatedly return to its natal beach to ensure the survival of its species.
It is nice to think that we have helped, but even so, one can only doff one’s hat to a family of very singular animals.

ALSO, READ

What’s the difference between turtles, terrapins and tortoises?
The loggerhead turtle fitted with a 3D-printed titanium jaw.

Contributor

Scottish born in 1939, DR GEORGE HUGHES became a game ranger in South Africa’s Giants Castle in 1961 before leaving to study Zoology at the University of Natal in 1965. He pursued a higher degree in Zoology, studying sea turtles throughout the South Western Indian Ocean and finished his PhD in 1974, rejoining the Natal Parks Board as Senior Scientist. In 1975 Dr Hughes was appointed a senior manager becoming Chief Executive Officer of the Natal Parks Board, and in 1998 CEO of the Board’s successor Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife. During his career, he has remained active in sea turtle research and has visited many parts of the world as a conservation expert. He has accompanied or led official South African delegations to conservation conferences with objectives as diverse as Sustainable Use, CITES and Conservation Economics.
Dr Hughes has received numerous awards, including a Lifetime Achievement award from the International Sea Turtle Society.
Retired after 42 years, he continues to be involved in sea turtle conservation, enjoys writing (305 publications, including his most recent book “Between the Tides” – in Search of Sea Turtles) and lecturing and spent four years as Chairman of a national radio programme “Talking of Nature”.

Wild dogs of Serengeti

African wild dogs (sometimes known as ‘painted dogs’ or ‘painted wolves’) are one of Africa’s most beautiful yet endangered carnivore species. Native to the open plains of sub-Saharan Africa, they are formidable hunters that live in highly social packs dominated by a top (or ‘alpha’) mating pair. Written by: The Serengeti Painted Wolves Project

But the species has been in decline across its range. Diseases such as rabies and canine distemper and encroachment of farming activity into their habitats have taken their toll, and wild dogs now occupy just 7% of their former ranges. In a further blow to the species’ future, in 1992, the population in the Serengeti National Park vanished and was presumed extinct.

Then in 2000, there was good news – wild dogs began re-appearing in the Maasai community lands in Loliondo, to the east of the Serengeti National Park. A few elusive dogs were spotted initially, but by 2004 twenty-six individuals had established themselves in four packs, though they didn’t recolonise the park itself.

Genetic testing of these dogs by the University of Glasgow researchers in collaboration with Tanzanian partners showed that these animals were, in fact, the same population as those that vanished from the park years before. The genetic studies also showed no evidence of inbreeding despite the population having gone through a recent bottleneck.

But the wild dog recovery also brought problems to local communities. A lack of wildlife in these pastoral areas was forcing the wild dogs to hunt livestock, which are critical for the livelihoods of the Maasai. In retaliation, the wild dogs have been poisoned, killed and harassed.

The ‘Serengeti Painted Wolves Project’ was established by the Tanzanian Wildlife Research Institute to conserve some of the endangered packs outside the protected area and move them back into the national park. Over the last few years, a total of 66 wild dogs from six of the most severely threatened packs have been captured and moved from the Loliondo area to a holding pen in the western Serengeti and then released into the park. With one exception, all the packs have settled within the national park boundaries.

Serengeti wild dogs released in the Nyassirori Plains – one with a radio-tracking collar. © Ernest Eblate

The Serengeti is now celebrating five new litters of wild dogs born to the re-introduced packs. Despite initially feasting on goats, the wild dogs now feed only on wildlife; the abundant impala and young wildebeest calves found inside the park. Even the open boundaries between the protected area and village lands have been free of conflicts between the newly settled wild dogs and domestic stock.

The President of Tanzania, Jakaya Kikwete, came specifically to join in the latest release of a wild dog pack in the western Serengeti this month. President Kikwete is a keen supporter of the Serengeti Painted Wolf Project and has recognised the efforts of the Tanzania Wildlife Research Institute and the University of Glasgow to re-establish the wild dog population in the Serengeti. Such dedication to conservation is reflected across many sectors in Tanzania and is the essence of the nation’s commitment to protecting global biodiversity.

The latest release of in the western Serengeti. From left: President Kikwete, Dr. Tim Tear of Grumeti Reserves, Presidents' Secretary, and Prof Markus Borner representing the University of Glasgow. © Daniel Rosengren — At the latest release of wild dogs in the western Serengeti. From left: President Kikwete, Dr Tim Tear of Grumeti Reserves, Presidents’ Secretary, and Prof Markus Borner representing the University of Glasgow. © Daniel Rosengren

The enormous hard work the Tanzanian field team put in was rewarded when the enclosure gates were opened, and the thirteen wild dogs ran excitedly into the bush. They immediately settled into their new life and successfully hunted twice within two days of the release. Painted wolves, wild once more.

wild dog release — Wild dogs are released from their enclosure. © Eblate Ernest

wild dog kill — The pack killed two impalas shortly after release. © Eblate Ernest

The return of the painted wolves is undoubtedly enriching the beautiful savannahs of the Serengeti. But we still need to understand more about the ecology and demography of the dogs. What competition do they face from other large carnivores, such as lions and hyenas? What determines whether they will move outside the protected areas and how far the packs range? Answering these questions will help us define the core habitat of this species and whether we are doing enough to protect this iconic species and the stunning environments in which they live.

The Serengeti Painted Wolves Project is a joint effort by the Tanzanian Wildlife Research Institute (TAWIRI) and by the University of Glasgow, Institute of Biodiversity, Animal Health and Comparative Medicine. It is funded by the Paul Tudor Jones Family Foundation and a private grant from the President of Tanzania, Dr JK Kikwete. Authors: Eblate Ernest, Emmanuel Masenga (TAWIRI), Markus Borner, and Grant C.Hopcraft (University of Glasgow).

Photographing the cattle of Pondoland

It was the end of the summer, and I was driving along the south coast of South Africa. The international success of my previous exhibition of photography, Sign of Life, had left me in the enviable position of not having to work for a couple of years but in truth, I was suffering from ‘second album syndrome’, and I felt bereft of any concrete ideas regarding a new visual narrative to follow up Sign of Life. By Christopher Rimmer

I stayed the night in Grahamstown in the Eastern Cape, and the following morning over breakfast, I read a news report of a fatal shark attack on a 71-year-old Austrian tourist further up the coast in a small seaside hamlet called Port St Johns.

In the background of the pictures that accompanied the news report stood a large bull, seemingly oblivious to all the drama going on around him and whilst it wasn’t the focus of the story, I was immediately struck by the graphic power of the huge beast standing on the wet sand with the shimmering cobalt Indian Ocean forming a backdrop. It was unexpected, absurd even, but I also found the scene strangely moving.

I decided I’d better drive further up the coast to investigate.

Port St Johns sits in a deep rocky gorge where the Umzimvubu River spills out into the Indian Ocean. The community is made up primarily of a sub-branch of the Xhosa tribe; the Pondo, and the surrounding area is known as Pondoland.

The cattle herds of the Pondo people are more than just a source of labour and food; they are inextricably interwoven into the fabric of Pondo existence. An elaborate vocabulary has evolved, which the Pondo people employ to express their feelings, both about the value of their cattle and their aesthetic responses to the grace and beauty of these animals. Cattle are milked, cherished and addressed by evocative metaphor in Pondo culture. Traditionally, they have been kept close to home after nightfall in a central byre or kraal surrounded by the huts of the people who care for them.

Released from the kraal at sunrise, the animals graze along this pristine coastal fringe of tumbling hills, bisected by many rivers and streams, with deep valleys and ravines buried in dark indigenous forests. During the afternoon’s heat, the horizon shimmers with the cobalt blue of the Indian Ocean while the animals make their way to one of the most shark-infested beaches on earth to cool off in the gentle sea breeze.

Following a comprehensive survey of the locale with my assistant, we decided to work initially at the beach known locally as Second Beach due to the flat topography and its cove-like shape with steep grassy land features rising on either side. Cattle arrived at the beach spasmodically throughout the day, thus requiring several exposure strategies.

From a technical point of view, the creation of the Amapondo photography collection presented several issues, firstly in terms of the dynamic range; some compromises would need to be made, which would involve decisions on over or under-exposing certain elements of the composition or filling the subject with artificial light. Depending on the season, the area has some amazing cloud formations, but often the sky would be a featureless blue for days on end. Some days, the cattle wouldn’t show, or the beach would be full of tourists.

As summer extended into autumn, I realised that this project would be a longer process than I first imagined. After a month-long break in Bali, where I was shooting a feature for the Spanish edition of Conde de Nast Traveller, I returned to Port St Johns. Winter had set in, and the behaviour of the cattle regarding their beach visitations had changed dramatically. During the cooler months of the year, the animals sit high on the beach where the sun has warmed the sand, and no amount of encouragement was sufficient to shift them into the position I required, so I packed up and went back home to Australia.

Returning for a third shoot in November, conditions proved much more favourable, with beasts down in the tidal zones daily and elaborate cloud formations on the horizon. Within two weeks, Amapondo was in the can.

Following a highly successful debut in New York, where art business magazine nominated me as the Top Artist to Watch in 2015, Amapondo returns to the country where it was made with a June 4th opening at the beautiful Jan Royce Gallery in Cape Town. The exhibition will run until 27 June 2015. Above all the other exhibitions booked for this year, I am most looking forward to my South African show. I was raised in South Africa, and I left my heart in this absurdly beautiful and complex country when I left. Seeing my work hung in a South African gallery will be a homecoming for me in every sense of the word.

65 endangered vultures killed in poisoning incident

We were alerted to a vulture poisoning incident on a private farm near Hoedspruit late in the afternoon on 6 May 2015. After contacting the farm manager and obtaining initial information about the incident, we met with him first thing the next morning and assessed the scene, which was secured overnight to ensure that no further exposure to mammalian, vultures or other avian scavengers would occur. The farm is located on the confluence of the Blyde and Olifants rivers. Written by Andre Botha, Manager of the Endangered Wildlife Trust‘s Birds of Prey Programme and Co-chair for the IUCN SSC Vulture Specialist Group

A total of 65 vultures of various ages and a single adult tawny eagle were found dead at various locations on the scene. This included African white-backed (globally endangered), hooded (globally endangered) and Cape (globally vulnerable, regionally endangered, near-endemic) vultures. Many of the birds were adults of breeding age, which will have severe consequences and cause the loss or break-up of several breeding pairs at this early stage of the breeding season.

During our assessment of the scene, it was obvious that the poisoning was associated with substantial meat-poaching activities. The team recovered many wire snares and found what appeared to be a camp where poachers spent some time slaughtering a range of animals. Parts of carcasses that were not removed to be sold as meat were scattered on the scene. Based on the evidence, it seems that a zebra carcass was first laced with poison which killed a first batch of birds, and this was followed up a few days later by the remains of a kudu cow that was also poisoned and that killed the remainder of the birds. The latter carcass was also cut up, and parts of it were placed in the trees, apparently a deliberate attempt to poison avian rather mammalian scavengers.

We did find signs of mammalian scavenging on some of the older carcasses, so it is likely that jackals and/or hyenas could also have been poisoned. A report of a dying jackal showing classic poisoning symptoms was received from a neighbouring farm early on Friday.

Samples for toxicological and other analyses were collected from several carcasses. We believe a chemical with acute toxicity was used as many of the dead birds still had food in their mouths when they died. A carbamate-based chemical was likely used to kill the birds. These types of chemicals are widely used in agricultural practices. Despite the same substances being banned in the last year, substantial stockpiles of these are still in circulation and available for use.

The crime scene was properly cleaned up and sterilised to prevent further poisoning of birds and other wildlife. All remains of the killed birds, poisoned carcasses, and found baits were incinerated. The Limpopo Department of Environment and Tourism apparently visited the scene briefly on Wednesday afternoon, but it is unsure whether a formal investigation was launched or a docket opened in this regard.

LEARN MORE about vultures here.

Through a Land of Giants

Like any worthwhile destination, the Ruvuma River does not give up her secrets easily. The journey from Arusha in Tanzania is a three-and-a-half-day commitment by Land Rover, made marginally easier by the stretches of blacktop gradually added to the national road network. First, to Iringa via Singida, Manyoni and Dodoma, then to Songea over the Southern Highlands and through the Makambako Gap, where you geographically enter southern Africa. The stretches of Miombo woodland and riverine vegetation in Ruvuma Region are more akin to the mopane woodlands of Zambia and Zimbabwe, and the further south one drives in Tanzania, the more you feel that this is a different country altogether.

Tanzania feels like a different country the further south one goes

From Songea, following a short meeting with the charming and helpful Regional Administrative Secretary, we continued to Tunduru, a backwater town dominated by artisanal mining of precious and semi-precious stones – soon to be transformed by uranium mining operations in the southern part of nearby Selous Game Reserve. Thanks to heavy rains and deteriorating roads, we only reached the object of our plans and dreams at lunchtime on the fourth day.
At Tungane, the Ruvuma is a broad, lazy stream broken by low rocks and wide sandbanks. On arrival, we set about hauling the canoes, supplies and other equipment off Gian’s trusty Land Rover, affectionately known as “kiboko” – as sturdy as a hippo and equally unwieldy! Once all was packed into the canoes, we waved goodbye to our anxious-looking ground support, who would pick us up at the end, and we paddled off into the afternoon heat.

Ruvuma-river-expedition — At the midway point of the expedition, the river opens up into a landscape of giant inselbergs. © Schachenmann & Soresina

Unfinished business

Back in September 2000, Marc Baker and I travelled to the Ruvuma to see where the river could be navigated and to obtain a preliminary idea of the conservation and tourism potential of the landscape. It has always been known that the wide expanses of Miombo woodlands between Selous and the Ruvuma River are the wildlife corridor to the equally wild and remote Niassa National Reserve in Northern Mozambique. But little was known about the Ruvuma River and whether it harboured any important populations of flora or fauna.

Aside from fishermen, there is scant record of people on the river

In the 19th Century, Livingstone navigated the river up from the coast, a little past the confluence with the Lugenda River flowing in from the south. In modern times there has been scant record of people on the river besides local fishermen. An internet search yields a couple of accounts by South African teams who have managed to canoe or raft certain sections. Still, nothing systematic has been attempted to cover a defined portion of the river, unsupported by land-based teams, while recording specific data along the way.
Our foray in 2000 did little to add to this scant knowledge. Still, it did emphasise how difficult the Ruvuma River is to access for long stretches and how difficult it was to navigate in an inflatable craft due to the wildly varying nature of the waterways – sometimes broad and shallow, then narrow and rocky, often disappearing into sandy shoals or meandering through mazes of thickly vegetated islands and rocks.

Into the Unknown

Even in today’s digital world, where the internet answers the most prosaic questions, obtaining facts, figures, and a sense of what to expect during our expedition was not easy. Google Earth offered interesting insights into the varying widths of the Ruvuma and where obstacles such as rapids and islands are. One of our key sponsors, Garmin, provided GPS units that allowed us to “see” ahead to some extent using Basemaps and downloaded datasets. But even the highest resolution images or GPS data could not accurately reveal the depth of water at any one point, the presence or absence of hippos or the seasonal fluctuations in the main flow of the Ruvuma.

floating-canoes-river-expedition 2 — Top: Alessandra guides her canoe through one of the tricky parts of the river. Middle: Marc and the author perform the daily ritual of pumping river water for purification. Bottom: Sandbars in the river form ideal camping spots away from insects in the woodlands. © Schachenmann & Soresina

Small victories buoyed us while dark storm clouds gathered

Our first day took us a few kilometres downstream, leaving haphazard agricultural areas radiating out from Tungane Village and then entering the Mwambesi Forest Reserve. By evening we had found an exposed sand bar, a feature that would become a regular favourite campsite on our trip. The distinctive tracks of the African clawless otter were found, and we had already recorded two of our target bird species, the rock pratincole and the white-fronted sandplover. While these small victories buoyed us, the dark storm clouds quickening in the west cast a very real cloud over our plans for the next day. If it rained heavily, what would that do to the water levels, and would it make sections of the river ahead impassable?

The grey clouds remained as dawn broke on day two, and a fine drizzle started falling. We decided there was nothing to do but push on, and although the morning was quietly passed, paddling in light rain, by lunch, the skies had cleared, and the sun was out, a state of affairs we enjoyed for the next eight days. By late morning we encountered our first real rapids, an area of rocky cascades and wooded islands that required us to carry and float the canoes through the foaming waterways. Due to our need for eight days worth of supplies and our expectation of long stretches with very shallow water, our canoes were open-topped Canadian “Trapper” style. This meant they were not equipped to ride out areas of water that had the potential to spill over the canoe’s edge. A full load further limited their ability to run white water since they sat low in the water. But our second day proved an excellent testing period as we began to appreciate their performance limits in various water conditions along the Ruvuma.

ruvuma-gorge 2 — After tumbling down through the Sunda Rapid, the river carves a narrow channel through basalt baserock. © Schachenmann & Soresina

The Anvil of the Sun

Day three proceeded much as the first two, with some stunning sections of river. Some channels ran between thickly forested islands reminiscent of tropical rainforest and punctuated with the calls of bush shrikes and hornbills. These alternated with open sweeping stretches of river, sometimes close to a kilometre across, flanked by the multi-colour hues of late-season miombo woodland tumbling down to the water’s edge. Cool clear waters mitigated the day’s heat, and our camps on wide sand bars in the river kept us away from the insect-ridden woodlands at night. We observed few large mammals but were thrilled with sightings of some truly special birds: the deep orange-coloured Pel’s fishing owl skulking in the branches of an overhanging tree; the large-eyed, nocturnal white-backed night heron silently fleeing from its perch, and pairs of perky rock pratincoles dancing in flight over the river or boldly standing their ground on their special rock homes as we passed by.

paddling-ruvuma-river — Top: Guiding a canoe through a particularly tight spot. Middle: The river picks up pace as it carves its way through basalt rock. Bottom: One of the narrow channels of the Sunda rapids. © Schachenmann & Soresina

The easy rhythm of these first few days was shattered

The easy rhythm of these first few days was shattered on day four when we came upon the Sunda Rapids, an area of confusing rocky channels, boulders and islands where the river drops a few hundred feet in a short distance. These rapids, clearly visible on Google Earth, herald the beginning of a 12-kilometre section dominated by a sheer rock canyon that cuts its way through a land of giants – enormous granite megaliths soaring into the sky on either side of the river. The canyon, while not deep or very wide, provides few options once inside, and where the channel narrows and the water boils through a six-foot-wide chasm, polishing the basalt to a shining sable blackness, there is no option but to portage to a less hostile section of water.

We repeated this ritual for two days, portaging to avoid the more aggressive parts of this wild canyon, scalding our hands on the black rocks, which we dubbed “The Anvil of the Sun” after T.E. Lawrence’s rocky Arabian desert. We eventually emerged from the mouth of the last rapid into a wonderworld of giant rock outcrops surrounded by oceans of miombo woodlands on both sides of the river. It was unanimously agreed that our campsite that evening on the lip of one of the megaliths, looking west down the meandering river, ranked with the best of our many bush trips. Anyone who loves finding hidden corners of treasured wilderness, out of cell phone range and beyond sight of human settlement or electric light, would recognise why this counted as a genuinely special place. That campsite defined the trip for me, encapsulating what it meant to be on a self-sufficient expedition. After the two physically strenuous days of portaging through the canyon, we slept happily and deeply, lulled into unconsciousness by the barking of yellow baboons and the eery whistling of bush hyrax.

ruvuma-river-expedition-portage — Top: A view of the river from one of the many monoliths found along its course. Bottom: Hauling canoes over rocks in one of the many slack parts of the river proved frustrating. © Schachenmann & Soresina

It seemed we were walking and carrying more than we were canoeing

The final few days saw us alternating between easy paddling on slack water and arduous hauling of canoes and equipment over flat rocks and through thick vegetation. Frustration built as it seemed we were walking and carrying more than we were canoeing on the water – the antithesis of a river journey. Additionally, regular encounters with pods of hippos ate up time as we walked our canoes far from the dangerous creatures. As for the highly publicised presence of giant crocodiles in the Ruvuma, either we missed them, or they had moved to another part of the river for, aside from a few smaller specimens, we saw few of these infamous reptiles.

Where The Wild Things Are?

And what, I hear you cry, of all the other wild animals, lurking in the bushveld, ready to eat us? The sad reality throughout the areas that we surveyed is that, while officially designated as wildlife conservation areas of one kind or another, the large mammal populations of these vast woodlands have been steadily reduced through a combination of poorly regulated hunting, illegal bushmeat hunting and poaching. Specifically for elephants, the startling upswing in ivory poaching over the last eight years has drastically reduced populations. In a land where giants once roamed in great numbers, now the only ones of significance are those of immobile granite.
These remote and difficult-to-access habitats are a challenge to patrol against poaching gangs, and lack of direct tourism revenue, or interest, means that they will remain a low priority for a cash-strapped government when compared to the African safari ‘poster-boys’ like Serengeti National Park and Ngorongoro Conservation Area.
Finally, having come to the edge of the Lukwika Game Reserve, we met our long-suffering ground support team. We began our long journey back from the Ruvuma to Arusha, happy to have largely fulfilled our goals but hungry to return to complete other sections of this enigmatic waterway and to bathe in its breathtaking landscapes.

Location & geopolitical significance of the Ruvuma River:
Forms the international border between Tanzania and Mozambique for 650km.
Total length: 760kms.
Basin catchment: 152, 200km2 of which 65% in Mozambique, 34% in Tanzania.
Physical features: Crystalline/sandy soils dominated by Brachystegia/Julbardnnia woodland of the Central Zambesian Biome.
Main protected areas along the length of river: Mozambique – Niassa Game Reserve (and associated hunting blocks); Tanzania – Liparamba Game Reserve; Lukwika-Lumesule Game Reserve; Mwambesi Forest Reserve; Mbangala Forest Reserve.
Wildlife of interest: Historic range of large savannah elephant population, important populations of African wild dog, significant sable antelope populations, African clawless otter, hippopotamus and greater kudu.
Sponsors: Ferarelle; The Italian Association of African Experts; Code 39Films; Garmin; Swarovski Optik.

Contributors

Biologist and conservationist JOHN (JO) ANDERSON moved to East Africa in 1995 shortly after graduating from Oxford University. He has since conducted wildlife research and environmental work throughout East Africa, guided Mount Kilimanjaro climbs more than 50 times, and led specialist travel groups on safaris in Tanzania, and Kenya. Rwanda, Botswana, Mozambique, South Africa, Uganda, and Zambia. Jo is a founding partner in Carbon Tanzania, which recently became the first organization in Tanzania to develop a community-led forest-based carbon offset project, working with the hunter-gatherer Hadza people of Northern Tanzania. He lives with his wife and two children in Arusha, Northern Tanzania.

Ale_Soresina_1800 Mammal Specialist ALESSANDRA SORESINA has worked on several wildlife projects around the world. In Saadani Game Reserve in Southern Tanzania, she was involved in a mammal monitoring project which led to Saadani being upgraded to a National Park. In 2001 she set up the lion project in Tarangire National Park, northern Tanzania, and for over 5 years, Alessandra has concentrated her efforts on lion–human interactions. During this time, she has greatly contributed to what is known about lions in and around the Tarangire ecosystem. One of her major goals was implementing the radio-tracking program in Tarangire, allowing conservationists and national park management to understand lion movements in the Tarangire ecosystem fully. After setting up a snow leopard project in the Himalayas with the Università degli Studi di Siena, she is now involved in mammal monitoring projects in Mozambique, Tanzania, Gabon and Botswana which are essential to the implementation of new protected areas.

Marc walking safari Bird Specialist MARC BAKER is the owner and director of Ecological Initiatives Ltd, a Tanzanian company that supports forestry and wildlife conservation in Tanzania. Based in Arusha, Marc has worked in conservation and ecotourism since 1998. Initially, as an ornithologist for the United Nations Development Program – Global Environmental Fund cross-border biodiversity project from 1998 – 2000, conducting a range of biodiversity surveys in Tanzania and Kenya. As a wildlife specialist, Marc works on various ecological issues, such as wildlife management, out-of-protected area tourism viability and carbon forestry for Danida (Danish Development Agency), Care International, the Wildlife Division of Tanzania and the Tanzania bird atlas.

Gian_1800 Adventure sports specialist GIAN SCHAUCHERMANN holds a degree in ecology and fisheries management. Gian has worked on Rubondo Island in Lake Victoria and built bushcamps in Tarangire and Serengeti National Parks. He also spent a great deal of time in the remote areas of Loliondo, where he guided walking safaris and captured some of the finest wild dog photographs. Gian has formal training and certification as a walking safari guide, is a member of the Interpretive Guides Society, and has a pure love of adventure. In his free time, Gian can be found building canoes in his backyard, climbing volcanoes, or adventuring across Tanzania on his motorbike or paramotor.

Bangweulu horses on anti-poaching patrols

The horses at the Bangweulu Wetlands were introduced by the previous conservation manager, Craig Reid. He was a keen horseman who was convinced that horses could greatly assist with monitoring wildlife and, eventually, with anti-poaching patrols. Written by: Andrea Reid

The horses arrived in early 2013, and no one knew how they would adapt to Bangweulu Wetlands with its thick elephant grass and vast dambos. Local communities, who had never seen a horse, greeted them with suspicion and excitement. The Bisa people are traditionally hunter-gathers, and keeping livestock is not common.

But the equestrian unit has been a valuable addition to the area. The horses can cover four times the distance than rangers on a foot patrol. They have a height advantage, with the ability to see poachers and wildlife ahead of them, which is a great advantage in a place like Bangweulu, with its small hills and high grass. Wildlife is also more relaxed in horses’ presence, enabling management to better understand species diversity and populations.

However, the integration of the horses has taken time as the horses needed to adapt to their new environment, which is very different to their lush Kikuyu pastures. The staff also needed to build relationships with the horses.

Albert Mupangachabe, one of the scouts at Bangweulu, was the first to express interest and proved to be a great horseman. Albert took to riding immediately and was a natural on a horse. When you ask Albert about the highlights of his job, he explains how much he enjoys riding and his encounters with animals whilst on horseback. Recently he identified a remnant population of sable antelope, which are thriving due to the extra protection they receive from the Bangweulu Wetlands scouts. He returned that day excitedly, telling the park members how close the sable came to him and how they just continued to graze. He added, “I also enjoy it when each morning I arrive at work and Fiddles greets me with a ‘whinny’.”

The riders have also been taught that it is important to know how to care for the horses – including equestrian-related tasks such as mucking out stables, grooming and feeding. Bangweulu Wetlands plans to grow the equestrian unit to include four members working on rotation.

© Bangweulu Wetlands Project/ African Parks — © African Parks

Visit Bangweulu Wetlands on safari to see conservation in action and to find shoebills and the rare and endemic black lechwe. Bangweulu Wetlands is managed by African Parks.

9 things you didn’t know about Garamba

Garamba National Park is 4,900km² of pure beauty, located in the Haut-Uélé district of the Democratic Republic of the Congo. The region is a biological treasure trove and, as a result, was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1980. Here are nine fast facts on Garamba

1. Garamba is one of the oldest national parks in Africa! Belgium colonised the DRC, and Garamba National Park was established in 1938 by Royal Decree, making it one of the oldest conservation areas in Africa.

2. Garamba is home to a subspecies of the northern giraffe known as the Kordofan giraffe Giraffa camelopardalis antiquorum. The Kordofan giraffe forms the park’s symbol, as Garamba’s giraffes are the only known giraffe population in the DRC. In 2012 Fundación Biodiversidad sponsored the collaring of five giraffes for scientific research. Read more about giraffes here.

3. Sadly, one of the collared giraffes was killed. The poachers kept the satellite collar, and officials could track the collar over the border. The good news is the South Sudanese authorities later apprehended the poachers.

4. Did you know that it is speculated that the elephants that occur in Garamba are hybrids of the savannah and forest elephants?

5. On the darker side of Garamba’s history: In 1920, the Elephant Domestication Centre was created by Belgium colonial rule in Garamba, where 100 elephants were trained to work in agricultural fields.

6. Coups, ceasefires, colonial wars and civil wars have plagued DRC’s wildlife and conservation areas, a reality for many African conservation areas. Although, with African Park’s involvement from 2005, Garamba’s general biodiversity is rising!

7. Garamba was home to the northern white rhino, with Southern Chad, the Central African Republic, Southwestern Sudan, and Northwestern Uganda. The park was one of the last strongholds of this subspecies of rhino in the late 1900s and early 2000s until they became regionally extinct.

8. Garamba is home to the charismatic sausage tree, one of Africa’s iconic trees. It has a large sausage-shaped fruit used to treat skin conditions and make a red dye used in traditional practices. Mature fruit can be up to 0.6m long and weigh a whopping 6.8kg. This tree’s attractive blood-moon red flowers have a strong scent that attracts many pollinators but is not appealing to humans.

potato tree — © David Santiago/ African Parks

9. Through African Parks community initiatives, thousands of schoolchildren on the periphery of Garamba have been educated about the importance of their natural heritage and conservation via documentaries, environmental lessons and school outings to the park.

African Parks offers safari camps and lodges in their protected areas – and your stay generates revenue that goes DIRECTLY to wildlife conservation and local community upliftment. Book your stay in one of their parks.

Gaboon adder – iSimangaliso’s special snake

Of the 36 recorded snake species known to occur in iSimangaliso Wetland Park, the beautiful Gaboon adder (Bitis gabonica) is surely the most iconic.

The Gaboon adder is a sedentary species renowned for its striking geometric patterning – and is the world’s heaviest adder. Stocky and often obese, the species can attain lengths up to 2 metres, although in iSimangaliso, individuals rarely exceed 1.3 metres. The disproportionately large head resembles a dead leaf with a dark dorsal stripe that mimics a midvein. Among snakes, Gaboon adders have the longest fangs (max. 40mm) and the highest venom yields. Bites from Gaboon adders are medical emergencies, but the species is of docile disposition, and most bites occur from the handling of captive individuals by snake enthusiasts. Envenomation incurs mostly cytotoxic symptoms, although toxic effects on humans are not well known, and only one human death is described in the literature.

This extremely rare inhabitant recently had its numbers boosted by 26 following the release of neonates at three locations on the Eastern Shores of iSimangaliso. Born in captivity at the iSimangaliso St Lucia Crocodile and Education Centre, their release into the wild was in line with the release protocol suggested by a three-year study (2005-2007) by registered researcher Jon Warner who recently completed his Master of Science thesis on the conservation biology of the species in South Africa.

According to the park CEO Andrew Zaloumis, “Jon’s Gaboon research was one of the 185 current registered research projects ongoing in the World Heritage Site. iSimangaliso encourages research in numerous fields to inform and improve our management strategies and contribute to the creation of scientific knowledge. Jon’s finding points to the importance of maintaining the continuity and integrity of the entire iSimangaliso dune forest corridor to protect and conserve the Gaboon adder. This is a good example of how iSimangaliso conserves high conservation value species by protecting their habitats.”

Although primarily a tropical species extending into equatorial Africa, their distribution is very restricted in South Africa and is mainly confined to iSimangaliso, highlighting the park’s importance for the future conservation of the South African population.

Following the insertion of tracking devices in the belly of selected Gaboon adders, Jon could track and monitor their movements as part of his research.

The core activity area averaged 6.7 hectares, with the mean male core activity centre almost five times greater than that of females. Snakes tracked (using VHF telemetry) were highly sedentary, especially during winter when individuals remained at single localities for extended periods (max. 87 days). Activity peaked for both sexes at the onset of the breeding season during March, with individuals averaging a movement distance of 598 metres.

The Gaboon adder is a terrestrial forest Adderid, and its habitat preferences in iSimangaliso are strongly influenced by season, with individuals selecting open-canopied areas during cooler months. This behaviour is presumably because the forested habitat individuals utilise for the rest of the year is inadequate for the species’ thermoregulatory requirements during winter. Females used slightly less shrubby microhabitats than males, and “thicket” microhabitat is important for the protection, thermoregulation and food acquisition requirements of Gaboon adders in iSimangaliso.

The feeding activity of Gaboon adders varied between seasons, with individuals spending long periods at single localities in an ambush position, especially during summer. Snakes exhibited strong ambush site fidelity, often remaining immobile for weeks at a time. Sites where ambush behaviour was observed were frequently in proximity (less than 1 metre) to game trails created by antelope. Gaboon adders may feed on prey as large as Red duiker (Cephalophus natalensis).

Ecological research from Jon’s study, coupled with new molecular data showing that South African and central African Gaboon adders are genetically similar, suggests the South African Gaboon adder population’s conservation status is better than previously assumed. However, long-term protection and management of the coastal dune forest corridor (found primarily inside iSimangaliso) is needed for a viable, local Gaboon adder population.

Visitors walking the self-guided trails in the Igwalagwala Trail and St Lucia Nature Park areas of iSimangaliso should keep a careful eye open for these snakes as they are fond of lying in a sunny patch of the path or amongst fallen leaves. Several visitors have reported spotting Gaboons, wisely choosing to leave a wide berth between themselves and the snoozing snake. A sighting should be considered a rare and special privilege and just another example of the miracles awaiting discovery in iSimangaliso.

The wild beneath the ocean waves

‘What’s great about the ocean is that you swim a hundred and fifty meters from the shore, and you feel vulnerable – you are in the wilderness,’ says Craig Foster. Feeling vulnerable is something most modern humans try to avoid, but it would have been a regular part of our ancestors’ lives, and it draws Craig into the cold waters of South Africa’s False Bay. He has been exploring these waters every day for four years, discovering previously unknown species and inspiring scientists and children alike to reconnect with the wild.
The Sea Change Project he is developing is multidimensional, involving film, photography and storytelling in live presentations, mobile exhibitions, and an expansive website. ‘The basis of it is that when you immerse in nature as deeply as you can, there’s this sea change – or transformation – that takes place because we are basically aligning ourselves with our original design,’ says Craig. ‘All those neural networks in the brain start functioning – all those things that activate primal joy. The water is a more extreme environment than land. You are inside water.’

cow-shark-false-bay — “We encountered 20 cow sharks at 15 meters of depth. Some of these animals were at least four times Tom’s size, yet he showed no fear, as he had never seen the movie Jaws or heard adults voice their fears. Tom swam close to these huge animals, who accepted him and showed no sign of aggression. For Tom, this was the best dive of his life.” Craig Foster about his young son. ©Craig Foster/Sea Change Project

By immersing yourself in nature you activate primal joy

I felt vulnerable, just sticking my toe in the cold water. Craig invited me to join him, his young son Tom and Ross Frylinck for a dive in False Bay. Ross is the director of surf lifestyle website Wavescape and a writer and director for Sea Change.
A prerequisite to diving with Craig is not wearing a wetsuit. ‘I want to get into the mind of Stone Age Man. I want to see how they saw things when they hunted in the ocean.’
We jumped from the rocks, and, before I could surface and take my first shaky breath, Craig, Tom, and Ross were swimming to the edge of the Kelp Forest. Soon they were motioning for me to join them, ‘Stingray! Come and see this.’ But I couldn’t pry myself from the shallows where I struggled to breathe. I needed time to adjust to the cold, and when I got there, the stingray was gone. ‘It was huge, about four meters,’ said Craig happily, adding how unusual it was to see it here in the kelp. But I wasn’t disappointed because by swimming down in search of the stingray, I entered a world where I felt cold, vulnerable, and ecstatic.
Later, from the shore, Ros and Tom noticed a great white shark taking some prey some 50 meters off the kelp line. Craig realised this was why the stingray and some seals had come into the kelp, but because the water was clear we were not threatened by the shark as it does not identify humans as prey.

ocean — The stingray which the trio encountered was driven into the kelp by the close proximity of a great white shark. ©Craig Foster/Sea Change Project

MASTERS OF WILDERNESS SURVIVAL

Foster, at a young age, was obsessed with the intertidal zone. He grew up along the coast in his family’s wooden bungalow, the lower level of which was below the high watermark. ‘In the big Atlantic storms, we had to board up the windows. The bottom of the house would often fill up with seawater.’
He and his brother were walking and diving along the coast by age three. In those days, there was no supervision. There was no iPad. They would spend whole days exploring the tidal pools and kelp forests. Their food was what the ocean provided, and they could survive like that by the age of six.

Sea Change reawakens the first African coastal family

This deeply influenced Craig; as an adult, he wanted to learn more. But no more coastal hunters were left around False Bay, and no mentors to guide the brothers through the finer arts of wilderness survival. ‘That’s what drew me away from the ocean to the Kalahari, where the San are the masters of wilderness survival.’ The Foster brothers spent three years filming their celebrated documentary The Great Dance: A Hunter’s Story there.
After a long series of films, Craig was burnt out. His way to recovery was to return to the ocean, so he moved to Simons Town, where he swam daily, gradually recovering and reconnecting with the wild in False Bay.
During that time, Canadian anthropologist and filmmaker Niobe Thompson, who had seen The Great Dance, and was creating a human origins series, approached Craig and asked him to recreate and film the first African coastal family. It turned out to be one of the foundations for the Sea Change Project.

STONE AGE MAN’S
RELATIONSHIP WITH THE OCEAN

Craig was determined to be completely faithful in recreating a 100,000-year-old Stone Age family and collaborated with archaeologist Christopher Henshilwood and ethno-ecologist Tony Cunningham. ‘I got a real feeling for original existence along the coast – a time when Homo sapiens were innovating at an incredible level.’

He describes evidence of rock art discovered by Henshilwood in Blombos cave near Stillbaai dated to 77,000 years ago, which makes it about 40,000 years older than the oldest art in Europe. Also found at Blombos is an abalone shell containing a mixture of red ochre, bone and charcoal. It is estimated to be about 100,000 years old, making it the oldest human-made container ever found and the world’s oldest chemical mixture for adornment. He believes that the carpet of low-tide kelp would have been the environment where we first learned how to wade, swim and eventually dive by following rich food sources, like abalone and crayfish, deeper into the ocean. ‘People might shoot me down, but I think this time was when humans lived at their highest potential.’

stone-age-man-dives — It is believed the carpet of low-tide kelp would have been the environment where we first learned how to wade, swim and eventually dive by following rich food sources to the seafloor. ©Craig Foster/Sea Change Project

Thompson expected him to work on the project for six weeks, but Craig spent eight months creating the family with local fishing people who had a strong connection with the ocean.
Donovan van der Heyden is one of them. A traditional fisherman and community leader, Donovan is active in establishing the rights of traditional fishermen. As resources dwindle due to commercial fishing and poaching, his community is under pressure. ‘Youngsters are being lured into poaching by the quick money,’ he says. ‘I want to be able to educate them about the importance of conserving wildlife and remind them of our spiritual connection with the ocean.’ In working with Craig in recreating our roots, Donovan has rekindled his connection with the ocean and feels the Sea Change Project can be integral in his quest to teach the youth about their marine heritage and how to conserve it.

THE POWER OF COLD

‘There’s a strange thing that happens to our bodies when it comes to cold water – with immersion and holding our breath. Everything is fast-tracked,’ says Craig.
I recognised this as I swam through the kelp forest, pulling myself down on long kelp stems to reach the rocky floor, holding my breath for longer as I dived deeper. The reward was a clarity of vision, a sharpening of the senses. While my inner core kept itself warm, my skin took on the temperature of the water. After a short while, I did not feel cold; I just felt like I was part of it. We swam for about 45 minutes, flying through the Kelp forest between myriad fish, diving down to greet octopus and crabs and anemones and sea urchins of every colour imaginable.

Sea Change Web - 28 — Anemones and urchins of every colour imaginable are on the seafloor of False Bay.
Tom hitches a ride on his father’s shoulders. ©Craig Foster/Sea Change Project

When you become cold-adapted you feel more human

‘We are supposed to be cold-adapted as humans, but today we are programmed to keep warm – put on our jackets when there’s a chill – but it’s not natural. When you become cold-adapted, your hormonal system changes; your immune system strengthens. There’s a transformation on many levels. We don’t step back into the original design, but some of that criterion is fulfilled. Ultimately you feel more human,’ says Craig. ‘Some of the kids involved in this project have gone home to do ice baths, and their parents ban them from doing it. So they sneak cold showers. It’s hard to stay cold in our mad world!’
One of those kids is 12-year-old Epiphany Stransham-Ford. Her father went diving with Craig and afterwards encouraged Epiphany to join them. ‘My dad thought it was the most incredible experience, and he knew how much I loved animals, so he suggested I go along too,’ she explains. Since then, Epiphany has become one of the ambassadors of Sea Change.

‘I was never interested in marine life before. I wanted to be a wildlife veterinarian and work in the bush. But when I went diving with Craig, that changed,’ she says. ‘My first dive wasn’t great, but on my second dive, I opened up. I totally relaxed and began appreciating the beauty of the surroundings.’
By her own initiative, Epiphany has been working with the Sea Change Project and the conservation organisation Mission Blue, headed up by renowned Ocean Explorer Dr Sylvia Earle. Mission Blue has designated Hope Spots along the globe’s shores – places critical to the ocean’s health – and False Bay is one of them. Through her learning and ocean experience, Epiphany now talks at schools where she inspires kids to conserve the ocean.

NEVER BEFORE SEEN

Aided by his heightened senses and the frequency with which he explores the water near his home, Craig started noticing creatures not recorded in guidebooks. He reached out to Emeritus Professor Charles Griffiths to help identify them. Griffiths headed up the marine biology team at the University of Cape Town for 25 years and is one of the authors of Two Oceans, A Guide to Marine Life of Southern Africa. He has also become a mentor to Craig, who holds him in the highest esteem for the valuable expertise and time he has given to the project.
‘Craig has a particular style of photography, and he’s photographed some remarkable things,’ says Griffiths. ‘What Craig does is valuable because he lives on the shore and often dives in the same places. For example, if Craig sees a snail laying a group of eggs and goes back every day to observe and document it, we can learn an extraordinary amount from it. As scientists, we don’t often have the time and resources to do that.’

small-cuttlefish — Top: A mollusc walked across the head of this striped catshark, leaving a slime trail that trapped tiny particles of swirling sand. This shows us that the catshark had been lying very still for many hours in its daytime den.
Middle: The small cuttlefish the team are studying due to its never before seen behaviour, illustrated below.
Bottom: When the cuttlefish is threatened by predators, it can change colour, texture and shape to mimic a whelk.
©Craig Foster/Sea Change Project

One of Craig’s most remarkable observations is the never before seen behaviour of cuttlefish, which Griffiths and marine biology student Jannes Landschoff are studying. Its behaviour is unique and has not been documented until now.
To evade predators, the cuttlefish adapts its skin colour, texture and body shape to mimic other creatures, such as a whelk (sea snail), which it lies beside and mirrors, as seen in the image above. When under threat, instead of swimming away and drawing attention to itself, the cuttlefish can also use its tentacles to mimic the legs of a hermit crab, fooling predators by slowly walking away like a crab.
Craig joins Charles and Jannes to explore and share information as often as possible. Jannes, who is originally from the north of Germany, is, as he says, naturally cold-adapted.

‘The marine life on the coast here is so diverse,’ says Jannes. ‘Bays are unusual along this part of Africa’s coast, and the life in False Bay is so rich because it is well sheltered. It’s also between two oceans where you have warm and cold currents meet.’
Much of the sea life has been wiped out on the coasts of Europe, so for Jannes, it is thrilling to study here, and Craig enhances that experience for him. ‘Craig is so in tune with nature. It gives me a completely different approach. When I first met Craig, I thought he was either a genius or completely mad. I came to realise he is both,’ laughs Jannes. ‘I don’t think he is fully aware of his amazing work, and I don’t know anybody with a similar approach. The spiritual philosophy behind what Craig does makes it translatable to an audience. I’m not religious; I guess if I have spirituality, it has always been science, and Craig’s philosophy is something I can tune into.’

THE ROPES TO GOD

‘There are many more animals in the water than there are on land,’ says Craig. ‘Big animals are approaching you. On land, that doesn’t happen because they’ve had millions of years to become afraid of us. But we never dominated water, so the animals aren’t scared of you. They often make contact if they don’t sense you are a threat. That’s why you’ve got to relax in the water.’
I couldn’t relax when Ross handed me a small cat shark. It was gently ensconced in his hands as he swam up to me, but I was wary so as he handed it to me, it became catatonic, coiling in on itself suddenly and sinking to the ocean floor. Once it sensed no further threat, it uncoiled and swam off again. I definitely needed to relax. And I decided the best way to do that was to give myself to the water.

catatonic-catshark — Top: Craig connects with a female argonaut, a rare visitor to the kelp forest, as it mostly lives in the open ocean. Middle: A striped catshark curled into a ball when threatened. Bottom: The author connects with an octopus. ©Craig Foster/Sea Change Project

‘In that cold water, it was a feeling of warmth’

Craig introduced me to a crab that, after resting for a while on my hands where we could study each other, climbed along my arm and seated itself there as I swam along like a steward. It made me feel relaxed, and welcome. It would have stayed there for longer if I hadn’t returned it to the ocean floor. Soon after, Craig brought an octopus up to greet me. He put it into my open hands, where it coiled its tentacles gently around my arms and sat facing me. I watched its bulbous head expand with every breath, its skin changing colour from dark purple to light pink, its eyes looking into mine.
‘It can happen anywhere – you can make these relationships with nature on land and in water,’ says Craig. ‘When you give an animal your attention, it can feel it. Imagine doing that with hundreds of species the whole time – a reciprocal bonding between you and nature. This is what the San call the ropes to God. It’s part of our psychological makeup. Imagine just cutting that off.’
The octopus and I stared at each other for a while. It’s the closest I have ever felt to nature. In that cold water, it was a feeling of warmth. Then it calmly swam away, and I followed it for a while like it was tugging me along.

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