There are many reasons why leopards are at the top of African safari request lists. Breathtakingly beautiful, charismatic, powerful, elusive, mysterious, and endlessly unpredictable – no one adjective can fully capture the wild essence of these impressive cats. Whether draped lazily across a tree bough or concealing themselves for a slow stalk and decisive pounce, no one leopard sighting is ever the same.
We’ve compiled a list of our favourite leopard-viewing destinations for (almost) guaranteed sightings.
A juvenile leopard plays around and sneaks up on her mother in Northern Tuli Game Reserve, Botswana
1. The Greater Kruger, South Africa
This corner of South Africa is famous for its spectacular leopard encounters, especially in the southern regions of the Greater Kruger, where leopard densities are at their highest. Private reserves like Sabi Sand Nature Reserve have a long history of leopard habituation to vehicles, and the leopards here are probably the most relaxed on the continent. The guides and trackers in these areas are intimately familiar with the territories and movements of their spotted comrades and will provide a background (and even lineage) of the individuals seen.
Vying with the Greater Kruger for the highest leopard densities on the continent, South Luangwa National Park is a haven for these elegant cats. The verdant floodplains, oxbow lakes, and riverine forests along the Luangwa River – the region’s lifeblood – are perfect pardine territory. Guests are regularly treated to multiple leopard sightings in a day.
The wetlands, grasslands, and thickets of the Okavango Delta teem with wildlife and predators abound in this rich wilderness. While animal viewing is typically at its best during the dry season, wild dog and leopard sightings are the norm year-round.
See leopards year-round in Moremi; leopard densities are high in Greater Kruger; guests enjoy regular sightings of the cats in South Luangwa
4. Samburu National Park, Kenya
Unofficially designated as the leopard capital of Kenya, arid and dramatic Samburu’s rocky outcrops and striking riverine trees provide perfect vantage points where leopards can strike the typical photographic pose. And with Samburu being somewhat off the beaten African safari track, chances are you won’t have to share your sighting with a crowd of eager tourists.
5. The Mara-Serengeti Ecosystem, Kenya and Tanzania
Leopard densities in the Mara-Serengeti Ecosystem are high, and, like our first four destinations, a sighting of at least one individual is all but guaranteed. However, what sets this region apart is the magnificent scenery, which has the potential to change the entire character of a sighting. Instead of lurking in the thickets, the leopards of Mara-Serengeti are often obliged to move in the open or through tall grassland. The sight of a leopard dwarfed by the sheer scale of the expansive Maasai Mara or renowned Serengeti is not easily forgotten. Throw in typical leopard unpredictability and the chaos of the Great Migration, and the scene is set for genuinely extraordinary and action-packed encounters.
A leopard carries her cub in Maasai Mara National Reserve
6. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa & Botswana
With their effortless beauty, leopards are suited to almost any setting but are perhaps most breath-taking against the ochre and gold palette of the Kalahari Desert. Naturally, the leopard population here occurs at lower densities, and sightings are not necessarily a given. However, the sparse vegetation works to the advantage of eagle-eyed visitors.
7. Laikipia County, Kenya
Laikipia County is one for the leopard connoisseur – those fortunate enough to have travelled and filled many a memory card with pictures of leopards from around the continent. The county, and Loisaba Conservancy, in particular, has recently found social media acclaim with the revelation that it is home to unusual black leopards. These mysterious cats have a rare genetic mutation that results in melanism and are believed to be more common in forested areas where their atypical colouring works to hide them in the shadows. Of course, they are elusive, and there are no guarantees – but isn’t anticipation half the fun of an African safari?
Maasai Mara leopards bring the action; if you’re lucky, you may spot a black leopard in Laikipia; the dramatic Kgalagadi landscapes make for excellent sightings of leopards; have a leopard sighting all to yourself in Samburu.
8. Tuli Block, Botswana
The Tuli Block, in southeastern Botswana, is a rugged wilderness known for ancient baobabs, red rock outcrops, and the Limpopo River. At its heart lies the Northern Tuli Game Reserve, famed for frequent leopard sightings which rival those in South Africa’s Sabi Sands.
Leopards are often spotted lounging in towering tree branches, especially during early morning game drives led by expert guides. Beyond leopard spotting, the silence of Tuli is profound, interrupted only by the whispers of the wind, elephant rumbles, or distant lion roars – a true immersion into Africa’s wild heart.
Emerging stealthily from the depths of a towering fig tree on a riverbank in Northern Tuli Game Reserve, a leopard surveys the baboons across the water. Soon, she’ll make her move.
Special mention: Nyika National Park, Malawi
Malawi’s concerted conservation efforts have borne exceptional biodiversity and resulted in a nascent tourism industry offering singular safari experiences. Nyika National Park extends across the vast Nyika Plateau, an enormous granitic dome over 2000 metres above sea level. The rolling hills are home to the highest density of leopards in Malawi, and while the secretive cats are still somewhat shy, sightings are becoming increasingly common, particularly at night. The positive feedback loop of growing numbers of tourists supplementing conservation funding has gone a long way to securing the future of one of Africa’s most unique wildernesses.
The black crowned crane, a charismatic bird species vulnerable to extinction from trapping and habitat loss, faces a new threat at one of its key habitats in the Sahel. Chad’s Lake Fitri, just south of the Sahara, is a massive wetland that is a magnet for African waterbirds and migratory birds from Europe. However, large numbers of fishermen who have fled the much bigger Lake Chad to the west to escape Boko Haram insurgents have pushed up the number of waterbirds – most notably cranes – caught accidentally as bycatch in Lake Fitri.
Lake Fitri is a vast wetland covering around 800 square kilometres in central Chad. The Ramsar Convention lists it as a wetland of international importance because it is a significant stopover site for migratory and resident waterbirds in Central Africa’s arid Sahel region.
Lake Fitri in Chad
In the last decade or so the presence of Boko Haram insurgents around the much larger Lake Chad, more than 300 kilometres to the west, has spurred the migration of thousands of fishermen from there to Lake Fitri. Numbers of fishermen at Lake Fitri now range between 1,000 and 6,000, depending on the season, compared to numbers that only peaked at around 700 in 2002. This near-tenfold increase has led to a surge in the number of waterbirds caught – mostly accidentally – as bycatch.
Among the birds most affected are black crowned cranes (Balearica pavonina), a species already considered vulnerable to extinction due to habitat loss and the trapping of wild birds for the pet trade.
“Livelihood harvest [of black-crowned cranes], even if it is by-catch, may not be sustainable,” says Pierre Defos du Rau, a wildlife scientist with the French Biodiversity Agency (OFB) and lead author of a new study into the impact of human migration on Fitri’s waterbirds.
“That is not an issue for Fitri only, but that’s probably an issue for the whole of the Sahel.”
With their striking black and white plumage and pincushion-like golden crown feathers, these iconic African waterbirds, which resemble southern Africa’s grey crowned cranes, inhabit wetlands and grasslands across West, Central and East Africa.
Experts say there could be as few as 33,000 mature black crowned cranes left across this range.
To estimate their number at Lake Fitri, Defos du Rau and his team, which included researchers from Chad’s General Directorate for Wildlife and Protected Areas, flew aerial surveys above the lake and its surrounding wetlands and forests every year from 2018– 2021.
Two researchers sat in the back of an aircraft piloted by conservationist Jaime Dias. Three rods attached to the wing struts on each side of the plane partitioned the view from each rear window into four parallel bands, covering areas up to 780 metres on each flight path. These bands helped the researchers estimate the number of birds along each transect and calculate the total populations across the lake.
Waterbirds fly over Lake Fitri
The lake’s total number of black crowned cranes was estimated at around 2,000. Worryingly, the team estimated the number of cranes killed accidentally each year by the local community exceeded this figure. More data is needed to verify the findings, however, because the team was only able to do one harvest survey through interviews with fishermen around the lake.
The number of cranes caught by locals and the size of the crane population on Lake Fitri fluctuate.
“Maybe it was a good year [for local community members benefitting from the bycatch of birds, or] maybe it was a bad year, and maybe it was a good year or a bad year for the population size estimates,” says Defos du Rau.
It is also likely, the wildlife scientist says, that other well-protected areas in Chad, such as Zakouma National Park around 300 kilometres to the south, act as a source of cranes, thus maintaining numbers at Lake Fitri.
A fisherman on Lake Fitri
“Chad has been maintaining quite vast areas of source habitats for this species,” he says. “If there were no other well-conserved areas in Chad, probably the Lake Fitri population would be crashing down.”
During their surveys, the research team, which was part of the FAO’s RESSOURCE Project funded by the French Facility for the Environment and the EU, counted not just cranes but several other waterbirds, including spur-winged geese, sacred ibises, pink-backed and great white pelicans, garganey and white-faced ducks and large flocks of ruffs.
Of these, the geese, the ibises and the pelicans were also found to be at a high risk of overexploitation.
The key challenge at present is the massive, sudden immigration of people from conflict areas, especially in large parts of the Sahel, which is currently gripped by political instability, conflict, and violence.
Nevertheless, Lake Fitri’s seasonally flooded woodlands and huge marshes remain “a jewel”, says Defos du Rau. Their well-preserved state is a credit to the communities that live there, and the Chadian authorities who use only light-touch conservation laws to protect the area.
Pelicans on Lake Fitri
Defos du Rau says there can be sustainable use of natural resources. “But we don’t know how [this use] is going to evolve with this sudden immigration [of people] from outside of Lake Fitri.”
Lake Fitri’s resilience lies in its well-preserved ecosystems and the stewardship of local communities and authorities. However, sustainable conservation efforts are essential to protect black crowned cranes and other waterbirds from escalating threats, ensuring this wetland of international importance thrives for generations to come.
Zakouma National Park is a park returned to vibrant wilderness, teeming with life. Zakouma offers a once-in-a-lifetime journey for travellers looking for safari adventure. Read more about Zakouma National Park here
Improved management in Zakouma, Chad, has led to healthier prey populations. Lions now favour larger species & prides are getting bigger. Read more here
The Simpsons understood why people buy ivory, rhino horn, diamonds and pangolin scales:
Lisa: Dad, what if I were to tell you that this rock keeps tigers away?
Homer: Uh-huh, and how does it work?
Lisa: It doesn’t work. It’s just a stupid rock.
Homer: Uh-huh.
Lisa: But I don’t see any tigers around here, do you?
Homer: Lisa, I wanna buy your rock.
CLEVER CONSERVATION
This week, I attended the launch of a local youth football and netball tournament spearheaded by pro footballer James Mayinga, South African National Parks and the Greater Kruger Environmental Protection Foundation (GKEPF). What does this sports tournament have to do with wildlife conservation? Everything.
“The tournament aims to create opportunities for the youth, strengthen social support structures, encourage hope, and provide them with a positive focus in their lives. By doing so, GKEPF strives to build trust and relationships between the protected areas, the local communities, and the organisations dedicated to environmental protection, encouraging a shared sense of belonging and pride in our natural heritage,” says GKEPF
Making the connection for local people living on the Kruger boundary between our country’s most popular sport and what lives on the other side of the fence is not just clever conservation; it’s essential. Hats off to that GKEPF crew, who continue to make huge strides for conservation at ground level.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Bees, bats, butterflies and… wolves? There’s a new pollinator around – and if you can believe it – it’s a predator. The Ethiopian wolf, the world’s rarest wild canid, has been seen (for the first time) licking the nectar from Ethiopian red hot poker flowers. As they savour the sweet nectar, pollen sticks to their whiskers and fur, hitching a ride from flower to flower. And the wolves even take their pups to the flowers to teach them to do the same.
This occurrence, taking place in the Ethiopian Highlands, might be the first record of a large carnivore playing an integral part in pollination. With fewer than 500 Ethiopian wolves left, it’s a bittersweet discovery. The wolves and the red hot pokers both rely on Ethiopia’s high-altitude habitat, now under siege from climate change and human encroachment. Who knew the path to conservation could involve a wolf with a sweet tooth?
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Keen to explore the best that South Africa has to offer? Or treat yourself to an opulent East African safari? Browse our recommendations below and let’s start planning your dream safari.
Dreaming of visiting South Africa? Enjoy this iconic bush & beach safari – the best that South Africa has to offer. Be swept off your feet with wall-to-wall wildlife action – with exceptional Greater Kruger Big 5 game viewing. This safari also includes a full-day road trip taking in the stunning scenery and cultural delights of the Lowveld. And then, head on to vibey, sophisticated Cape Town & the nearby winelands.
Kenya Highlights – Samburu + Laikipia + Maasai Mara & Giraffe Manor – 8 days – from US$11,120pps
This luxury safari offers an unforgettable introduction to the stunning beauty of Kenya’s diverse landscapes and endangered species. Encounter rare Nubian/Rothschild’s giraffes up close, see the Big Five, enjoy endless adventurous activities, find majestic rhinos – Africa’s unicorns – and unwind in luxurious accommodation amidst breathtaking landscapes.
Not sure when to go on safari? No worries, here is our month-by-month guide to help you decide when to have that next ultimate safari experience
WATCH: Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda hosts Africa’s most extensive protected tract of montane forest. Here’s all you need to know about a safari to Nyungwe. (07:42) Click here to watch
Africa is a continent of wonders – natural and human alike. From such an extraordinary array of offerings, one might be hard-pressed to select the ultimate bucket-list of African wildlife experiences, but that is precisely what we have put our minds together to produce.
Want to join us for one of these epic wildlife experiences? Find African safaris for your bucket list or lodges in or near the below destinations here, search for our ready-made safaris here or get in touch with our travel team here.
Behold our choices of the top African wildlife experiences:
1. Go eye to eye with gorillas
Those that have had the good fortune to spend time with wild gorillas speak of it as a profound, almost transcendental experience. Something in their expressions speaks to the heart of what it means to be a sentient being. It becomes even more meaningful knowing that every visit significantly contributes to these majestic animals’ survival.
Witness the sentience of a mountain gorilla up close
2. Experience the chaos of the Great Migration
There is no other way to describe the Great Wildebeest Migration but as a natural spectacle of extraordinary proportions. No words nor pictures can fully capture the sheer magnitude of millions of animals moving across the vast plains on their endless journey in search of fresh grasses. From the miraculous birthing season to the chaos of the river crossings, the Great Migration is a primal display of nature at its most raw.
Where? Follow the herds north through Serengeti National Park in Tanzania to the Maasai Mara in Kenya and the treacherous river crossings en route, or await their return to the southern calving grounds in Serengeti and the Ngorongoro Conservation Area.
The Great Migration is a top experience on the ultimate African safari bucket list
3. Search for the black ghosts of Laikipia
Melanistic leopards are a rarity in Africa, and those that allow more than just a fleeting glimpse even more so. A few years ago, a desire to see a black ‘panther’ in Africa would have seemed almost laughable. Yet, black leopards seem to thrive in the heart of Kenya and careful, ethical habituation in Laikipia has ensured that sightings are a regular occurrence.
Where? There is more than one black leopard wandering the wilds of Laikipia. Laikipia does not stint on comfortable accommodation, though there are options available to suit tighter budgets. There are a number of either community-owned or community-operated lodges for conscience-driven travellers available as well.
Seeking out a rare black leopard is one of the most thrilling African wildlife experiences
4. Convene with giants in Tsavo and Amboseli
The greater Tsavo-Amboseli ecosystem in Kenya is home to Africa’s last notable population of big tuskers. These magnificent elephants – whose tusks reach the ground – are among the last of their kind, fiercely protected by dedicated conservationists.
Where? Many of the largest elephants roam the Tsavo East and West national parks, shaded red by the area’s famous dust. Further south, Amboseli National Park offers the opportunity for awe-inspiring photographs against the iconic backdrop of looming Mount Kilimanjaro as you commune with these giant elephants.
A magnificent tusker and companion march through Tsavo – their skin stained with the characterstic red Tsavo sands
5. Stalk the mountains with wolves
On the roof of Africa, Ethiopian wolves stalk the heather in search of their mole rat prey. These gorgeous predators, adorned in russet coats, are one of the most endangered large carnivores in the world – occupying a perilous niche at Afroalpine altitudes. Here, at dizzying heights and surrounded by some of the most unusual scenery in Africa, they share their space with the ubiquitous (but endlessly entertaining) geladas and more elusive walia ibexes.
Where? To set off on this rare African wildlife experience, head to the Simien Mountains National Park and the Bale Mountains of Ethiopia, which host the last population “strongholds” of the Ethiopian wolf.
An Ethiopian wolf stalks off with its ice rat prey in the Bale Mountains
6. Waddle with the penguins of the Cape
There is something so delightfully incongruous about the sight of penguins wandering the beaches amongst bikini-clad tourists at the height of the blazing Cape Town summers in South Africa. Yet the charismatic penguins of Simon’s Town have well and truly made themselves at home and, in so doing, become the town’s most sought-after attractions.
Where? Boulder’s and Foxy Beaches in Simon’s Town or Stony Point Nature Reserve in Betty’s Bay usually have some penguins present year-round, though the best time to find them is between December and May.
Though there are many reasons why a visit to Mana Pools National Park should be on one’s bucket list, there is no question that the park’s wild dogs (painted wolves) play a substantial role in the park’s allure. An encounter with these iconic animals is always exhilarating, but these particular dogs are also extremely comfortable with people on foot. For photographers and enthusiasts alike, this translates to an unparalleled opportunity to view them from a unique vantage point.
Where? Mana Pools National Park in Zimbabwe, especially during their winter denning season from around May to September.
Playful wild dog pups take a moment’s downtime in Mana Pools National Park
8. Search for the desert-adapted lions of Namibia
Though life for all wild animals involves a delicate balance on the knife-edge of survival, those that live in the extremes are remarkable for their resilience. In a land of savage beauty, the lions of the Namib Desert have adapted to a harsh existence with limited prey and less water. Phantom-like, these hardy cats prowl the beaches of the aptly named Skeleton Coast and pad gracefully across the sands of the inland dunes.
Where? These lions roam the Skeleton Coast, Damaraland and inland riverbeds of the northwestern corner of Namibia. Read more about conservation efforts aiding these lions here.
A desert-adapted lioness, collared for scientific research, strides across the harsh landscape. Namibia
9. Meet the marvels of Madagascar
Madagascar is a land that has been isolated for millions of years and, as a result, is an island of endemic marvels. As wildlife experiences go, the Madagascan one is both fascinatingly weird and captivatingly wonderful. From dense tropical forests to jagged rock faces, this massive island is a tapestry of vastly different habitats, each replete with its quirky inhabitants. From wide-eyed and endearing lemurs (over 100 species of them!) and slinking fossa to leaf-shaped reptiles and birds of every conceivable colour, Madagascar is a kaleidoscope of oddities.
Where? The island’s sheer size means that every trip should be tailored to particular interests. Each story in our four-part Madagascar series (scroll down in the story to access the other three regions) is dedicated to a different corner of the island.
A Verreaux’s sifaka – a primate in the lemur family – photographed near Fort Dauphin (Taolagnaro) in Madagascar
10. See bats darken the skies of Kasanka
The Great Migration of East Africa may be one of Africa’s spectacles. Still, in terms of sheer numbers, it pales in comparison to the abundance of the Kasanka Bat Migration – the largest migration of mammals on earth.
Where? Every year between October and December, African straw-coloured fruit bats descend in their millions upon a tiny patch of swamp in Zambia’s Kasanka National Park, filling the skies and ladening the fruit trees upon which they feed.
Every evening during the Kasanka Bat Migration, African straw-coloured fruit bats leave their roosts in Kasanka’s Mushitu Swamp Forest to search for food
11. Search the swamps for shoebills
While competition is fierce, the shoebill is widely acknowledged as one of Africa’s most charismatic avian offerings. A bill roughly the size and shape of a Dutch clog should be innately comic, but every tilt of the shoebill’s head seems to reveal a different mood – austere and intimidating, vengeful, smug, and even coy. Nothing is beyond the repertoire of their facial expression.
Travellers hoping to tick a sighting of a shoebill off their bucket lists can head out on specialised expeditions in either Uganda or Zambia
12. Swim with whale sharks off Africa’s East Coast
Beneath the azure waves of the Indian Ocean, spectacular seascapes support a cornucopia of life, including the largest fish species in the world – the whale sharks. When treated with the appropriate respect, these gentle plankton-eaters are slow and docile, allowing for a profoundly humbling underwater encounter with one of the Earth’s leviathans.
Where? Every year, feeding aggregations of whale sharks occur near Mafia Island, one of Tanzania’s Spice Islands, off the Tanzanian coast and the waters of southern Mozambique, moving through Bazaruto Archipelago National Park. The recent rise in popularity of swimming with whale sharks has seen them harassed by unethical tourism practices. It is vital to book the experience through a reputable operator that puts the well-being of the sharks first.
Be sure to seek out ethical and reputable operators for your whale shark safari – so that the well-being of the sharks comes first
13. Trek for chimps in the forest
Two great ape experiences on one list might seem overkill, but encountering chimpanzees in the wild is a world apart from gorilla trekking. Like humans, chimpanzees are social and intelligent predators with a complex array of social signals, dramas and romances. They use tools and wage wars. Chimpanzees are linked to us by an ancient common ancestor and offer a poignant reminder of our own evolutionary history.
Where? Uganda’s Kibale National Park offers some of the best chimpanzee trekking in Africa, as does Mahale Mountains National Park in Tanzania. Like any safari experience, there is always an element of luck involved, but the viewing in either location can be extraordinary.
An intensive grooming session nurtures chimp kinship in Kibale National Park, Uganda
14. Search for Africa’s legendary horned giants in the Greater Kruger
It is no secret that the beleaguered rhinos of the world face a perilous future, but there are still places where they can live their wild lives in (relative) safety. Despite plummeting numbers in the Kruger National Park, the Greater Kruger region still represents one of the largest remaining wild populations of both white and black rhinos. While many of the rhinos in the area are dehorned for their protection, Greater Kruger offers optimal viewing opportunities of the large mammals.
Where? The private reserves on the western fringe of the Kruger National Park are all home to both rhino species, and ensuring their safety comes at significant personal and financial costs. Visitors to these parks can rest assured that their reserve fees are going directly to protect one of Africa’s most important rhino populations.
Being in the presence of rhinos is a mesmerising experience for anyone fortunate enough to come across these giants
15. Meet the meerkats of the Kalahari
With the Big 5 dominating the safari scene, the smaller creatures are often overlooked. Yet sometimes, the tiniest of animals sport the biggest personalities. Decades of scientific research (and soap opera-styled documentaries) have ensured that there are several habituated meerkat clans wandering the red sands of the Kalahari. Observe their antics from eye level, watch the sentries hard at work (or act as a suitable vantage point) and be charmed by their litany of conversational squeaks.
Where?The meerkats of Tswalu Kalahari Reserve are closely monitored by scientific and habituation teams and, while contributing to a substantial body of research, have been known to charm the pants off visitors as well. Meerkats are also found in high densities around Botswana’s salt pans and, while not as habituated as those of Tswalu, can be equally bewitching.
Amid Kenya’s breathtaking Tsavo landscape, African painted wolves (African wild dogs) face critical threats. Their population plummets due to disease, snaring, and human-wildlife conflict. A groundbreaking partnership between Tsavo Trust, the Painted Wolf Foundation and the new Painted dog fund now aims to protect these endangered predators with innovative conservation efforts
As the setting sun shifts shadows over Kenya’s vast Tsavo landscape, Joseph Kyalo Kimaile, Tsavo Trust’s Chief Conservation Officer, watches four painted wolves drinking from a drying waterhole – the last remnants of the Triangle Pack. “Last year, this pack was 18 strong, and now only four are left,” says Kimaile. “No one knows what happened to the others, although personally, I suspect rabies. They have always been my favourite animal,” he adds “and I have made it my mission to keep them safe.”
A wild dog mom on high alert
A vast landscape for wild dogs
Tsavo East and Tsavo West are the largest National Parks in Kenya. The wider Tsavo Conservation Area is over 40,000 km2 – larger than Belgium – and represents one of the world’s largest wildlife sanctuaries. Lions, rhinos, and ‘super tusker’ elephants call this landscape home.
Tsavo’s wild dog population is rapidly declining
Painted wolves (Lycaon pictus) also reside in Tsavo, although their numbers have fluctuated widely as they repeatedly succumb to snaring, disease, and human-wildlife conflict. Until recently, these endangered predators seemed to be doing well here, but their population is rapidly declining. No one yet knows why, and there are no safeguards in place to protect them.
Late in 2023, the Painted Wolf Foundation (PWF) and Tsavo Trust partnered to bring a painted wolf conservation programme to this iconic area of Kenya and help protect this important population.
Tsavo Trust is already doing significant conservation work protecting the super tusker elephants and endangered rhino. Tusker Balguda was first recorded in April 2014, in Tsavo East National Park
Rising to meet the challenge
How to do this was a big question in such a vast landscape where virtually nothing is known about these wild dogs except from occasional reports of sightings by rangers and guides on the ground. Detailed, relevant and accurate information is in scant supply, yet this could be one of the most significant strongholds for the species in Africa.
Tsavo Trust’s ranger team
“The real opportunity here was to play to the strengths of Tsavo Trust, which has significant resources and extensive operations, as well as a strong collaborative philosophy,” explains Nick Dyer, CEO of the Painted Wolf Foundation. “Having been here for more than a decade, the Trust has built superb partnerships with the Parks’ Authorities and local communities as well as playing a significant role in protecting the iconic elephants and Kenya’s largest rhino populations. On top of this, its 12 ‘Tembo’ anti-poaching teams are already tackling one of the painted wolves’ most destructive threats – snaring.”
Knowledge of wild dogs is key
When entering any new landscape, PWF believes that the priority is to first get a handle on the population. “You cannot protect what you don’t know,” says Will Donald, PWF’s Conservation Training Manager. “You must ID every dog in every pack and map their territories. And this is not a one-off exercise as the dynamics are forever changing, so regular monitoring is also critical.” Before joining PWF, Donald spent four years doing this successfully in the Musekese area of Kafue National Park in Zambia.
ID-ing individual painted wolves from the air will be a bold and innovative approach, which has the best chance of “getting a handle” on the local population.
Adopting this approach in an area the size of Tsavo is a huge challenge. Camera trapping provides limited information and would be prohibitively expensive. A single dedicated team cannot be everywhere all at once, and security concerns in some areas mean that it will not always be safe.
After several months of discussion, PWF and Tsavo Trust developed a strategy with three parts: 1. build expertise; 2. gain knowledge; and 3. tackle suspected threats. Further, to be effective, a decision was made to initially narrow the project area to Tsavo East. This is a more challenging area than the rest of the Tsavo landscape, and it is where the wild dogs seem to be in greater danger. It covers over 14,000 km2, which is still daunting when starting from scratch.
Building capacity for monitoring wild dogs
The first part of the strategy will involve having good, knowledgeable painted wolf experts on the ground, and Tsavo Trust agreed to employ a dedicated painted wolf conservationist who will work under Kimaile. “Such specialists are thin on the ground in Kenya, and we want to avoid removing a person who is already doing valuable work in another area, so a new ecologist will have to be trained,” says Dyer. Will Donald will provide this training at PWF’s planned training facility and spend time on the ground in Tsavo.
“The plan is also to support Kenya’s Wildlife Research and Training Institute (WRTI) in taking a keen interest in the species and support its passionate researcher, Grace Waiguchu, by providing her with the same conservation training,” says Dyer. “In addition, the project will supply her with the critical equipment needed to be effective in the field.” Waiguchu is currently studying for a PhD on painted wolves and would naturally form part of ‘Team Wild Dog’ on the ground.
Painted wolves spotted from the air at a remote den site
Gaining the knowledge to protect wild dogs
With this dedicated team, Tsavo Trust’s broader resources can come into full effect to understand the local population – the second part of the strategy. Its 12 ‘Tembo’ teams (some with attached ecologists) are always in the field and will be trained in conducting spoor identification during their daily patrols. This will be supplemented by air cover from the Trust’s slow and low-flying Super Cub aircraft fleet.
Tsavo Trust’s Chief Wildlife Officer, Joseph Kyalo Kimaile, is one of their foremost pilots and will be responsible for conducting the air surveys
“This will be a fantastic challenge,” says Kimaile, who is also one of Tsavo Trust’s experienced pilots. “ID’ing them from the air will require some good flying skills, a good telephoto lens and a steady hand, but I know it is all possible. We often see the painted wolves from the air, but now there is a purpose when we do so.”
This combined approach will help the team find, ID and monitor the wild dogs and provide opportunities to put GPS collars on the most vulnerable packs in an area where the road network is sparse. The terrain makes driving off-road almost impossible.
PWF believes that, from a conservation perspective, there is no point in gathering information on the movements and composition of the packs unless this is used to protect them. Thus, the monitoring programme aims to identify the threats so that the project’s next phase can introduce appropriate conservation mitigations as soon as practicable.
“We are not about funding studies that play no role in protecting the species,” says Dyer. “We only invest in programmes that can bring a transformational change to an area and hopefully increase a painted wolf population over the long term.”
Identifying threats to painted wolves
The threats to the painted wolves in Tsavo likely come from two angles. There are the ‘natural’ threats from lions and hyenas, which can cause significant mortalities. Not much can be done about these. However, conservationists can make a difference by tackling disease risk, snaring, and illegal killing and protecting the wild dogs’ prey base. “The existence or magnitude of the threats in Tsavo cannot yet be proven, but strong anecdotal evidence suggests they are real,” says Dyer.
Thus, the third part of the strategy is all about working with local communities. The initial focus will be on the Kamungi Community, which Tsavo Trust supports and has built a meaningful and deep relationship with. Initially, Tsavo Trust will conduct a comprehensive attitudinal survey among the villagers to gain a baseline understanding of how the wild dogs impact people’s lives, together with their views and beliefs towards the species.
Tsavo Trust has built considerable trust with the Kamungi community, building boreholes and supporting education
Working with the communities
“It is only when we understand how the painted wolves affect the lives of people in the community that we can consider programmes that mitigate against the impact that these animals have on people’s livelihoods,” says Ruth Kabwe, PWF’s new Programme Manager, who previously spent four years working on painted wolves with the Zambian Carnivore Programme. “It would be hard to persuade sheep farmers in the US or Europe to accept these pernicious predators on their farms, and we have to afford the same respect and understanding to Africa’s communities that live alongside our wildlife.”
One aspect in which Tsavo Trust will immediately make an impact is offering local community members a comprehensive rabies and distemper vaccination for their domestic dogs. Rabies, transmitted by domestic dogs, is strongly suspected of decimating the Triangle Pack and, further north in Kenya, a distemper outbreak in 2017 all but wiped out the entire population of painted wolves in Laikipia – nearly 300 individuals.
This vaccination programme will not only help protect Tsavo’s painted wolves, but it is something that the communities will extensively welcome. Alongside this, an information and education programme will run in parallel to ensure that this support is strongly associated with the species, demonstrating the benefit of having these animals in their backyard.
The road forward
“This three-pronged strategy begins a long-term conservation programme for Tsavo’s painted wolves,” says Dyer. “However, none of this will be cheap and requires a significant financial commitment for many years to make a difference.”
Thankfully, the new Painted Dog Fund, a partnership between PWF and the Wildlife Conservation Network (WCN), has made a grant of US$70,000 to Tsavo Trust to get this programme off the ground. The Painted Dog Fund, managed by PWF, forms part of WCN’s Wildlife Fund portfolio, including the Lion Recovery Fund, the Elephant Crisis Fund, the Rhino Recovery Fund and the Pangolin Crisis Fund. These funds have significantly impacted Africa, having dispersed over US$100 million since the programme started a decade ago.
The collaborative efforts of the Painted Wolf Foundation, the Painted Dog Fund and Tsavo Trust bring hope to Tsavo’s vulnerable painted wolves. With strategic conservation, community support, and dedicated funding, this initiative promises a brighter future for these iconic animals and the ecosystems they call home.
With the sun now set, the four painted dogs leave the waterhole to begin the evening’s hunt. Kimaile watches them vanish into the bush with a renewed sense of hope. “For too long, I have felt powerless to defend these incredible canines, but now I see a light at the end of the tunnel. I’m excited that we finally have a strategy and funding to make a real difference.”
Tsavo Trust monitoring the field
More about the Painted Wolf Foundation and Painted Dog Fund
The Wildlife Conservation Network and the Painted Wolf have partnered to create the Painted Dog Fund, the only fund in existence wholly focused on the conservation of this species, to double the number of Africa’s painted dogs by 2055.
“The Painted Dog Fund shares identical goals and values with Painted Wolf Foundation and aims to raise $4 million in its first three years,” says Dyer. “It will act as a vehicle for raising and deploying resources to African painted wolf conservation projects. Acting in tandem, PWF will manage the Fund and provide the analysis, design, training, and continuous support for the projects in which the Fund invests.”
PWF and the Painted Dog Fund follow the same strategy that was articulately laid out in the late Diane Skinner’s seminal report, “Securing the Future of the Painted Wolf”.
“When Nick, Diane and I set up PWF in 2018,” says Peter Blinston, co-founder of PWF and the Executive Director of Painted Dog Conservation in Zimbabwe, “we shared a vision of putting the painted wolf on the top table of conservation and ensuring that proven conservation measures were in place wherever they exist. The combination of PWF and the Painted Dog Fund brings support to brilliant conservationists working across Africa who want to save this species. It’s really exciting to see this opportunity come alive in Tsavo.”
In 2020, the discovery of over 330 dead elephants in Botswana’s Okavango Delta during an aerial survey shocked scientists and the world. It was one of the most significant mass mortality events of large mammals in recent southern African history. The remote location and the peak of the COVID-19 pandemic hampered initial investigations, leaving the cause of the deaths unanswered. Now, scientists have confirmed a theory that was suspected by many at the time.
Little evidence pointed to anthrax or a virus. All theories, including death due to viral or bacterial infections, lacked sufficient evidence. All elephants had their tusks intact, ruling out poaching incidents. The Botswana government suggested the deaths could be due to environmental intoxication by cyanobacterial toxins, also known as cyanotoxins, but the theory lacked evidence.
Four years after the incident, new research provides the most comprehensive insight into this tragic event to date. Scientists took a groundbreaking approach, combining remote sensing and spatial analysis to reconstruct the elephants’ movements and link them to the environmental conditions that likely contributed to their deaths. This innovative approach works around the logistical challenges of traditional field-based investigations in remote areas.
The researchers, from Kings College in London and the Okavango Research Institute, focused on the eastern Okavango Panhandle, a region characterised by a complex network of permanent and ephemeral water bodies known as pans. They analysed data from 2015 to 2023 and used satellite imagery to map the location and water levels of approximately 3,000 pans.
The researchers integrated this data with the locations of elephant carcasses and live elephants, obtained from an aerial survey conducted in July 2020. This survey categorised carcasses based on their decomposition state: fresh (deaths within a month), recent (deaths within six months), and bones (older deaths). A key finding was a statistically significant difference in the spatial distribution of fresh/recent carcasses compared to the distribution of bones and live elephants, indicating that the die-off deviated from typical regional mortality patterns.
Elephants drinking in Okavango Delta
They revealed a striking correlation. Twenty pans near fresh carcasses showed a dramatic increase in cyanobacteria bloom events in 2020, exhibiting the highest average phytoplankton biomass recorded between 2015 and 2023. High levels of cyanobacteria produce potent toxins, posing a threat to the health of wildlife relying on these water bodies, and these findings suggest a heightened risk of cyanotoxin presence in these specific water sources. Elephants, which can drink up to 200 litres of water a day, could be particularly vulnerable due to consumption of large amounts of the toxins.
Scientists found that the estimated travel distance of the elephants before death, approximately 16.5 kilometres, was consistent with cyanotoxin poisoning.
The period between April and May 2020 showed the highest algae production, although high productivity and bloom events occurred throughout the year. On average, these pans had water only 11% of the time between January and July 2019, compared to 55% in 2020. There was a shift from a dry 2019 to a significantly wetter 2020, a change likely responsible for triggering the extreme algal growth in the pans.
While it might seem strange that blooms occur in wetter periods, Davide Lomeo, a member of the team from the Department of Geography at King’s College London, says there is an explanation.
“An increased amount of water being introduced into these systems does not suppress blooms. In the very short term, during the rainy period, bloom formation may be temporarily ‘suppressed’ due to the sustained water disturbance (by rain). In the short term, this may cause greater dilution but also leads to the re-suspension of sediments from dried-up waterhole beds and/or surrounding dusty areas.” Cyanobacteria, or blue-green algae, flourish in warm, stagnant waters rich in nutrients.
Coupled with the heavy rains, this led “to greater availability of nutrients within the water, that (especially) after the rains, when water is stagnant, increases the likelihood of bloom events,” says Lomeo.
Elephants crossing the lush delta
The question of whether such events could have occurred in the past is a valid one. “Our satellite analysis (alongside others performed in areas around the Okavango Delta) showed that, at least for the past 20 years, there have not been years as dry as 2019,” according to Lomeo. He says 2015 also was very dry, but 2016 was nowhere near as wet as 2020. “This means that the drying up of these waterholes was not followed by such unprecedented flushing event,” he explains, “but we cannot know for certain what happened in the more distant past.”
In the same year, 35 elephants died in neighbouring Zimbabwe from an obscure bacterium in hot conditions. In that case, they suspected the bacteria, which live naturally in the tonsils of some animals, can pass into the bloodstream when temperatures go over 37 degrees Celsius (as in the case of antelopes dying in Kazakhstan in 2015), but this was not confirmed to be the case with the Zimbabwean elephants.
Does this mean events like this will become the norm with changing climatic conditions? “We cannot say for certain if these events will become more frequent, but we are seeing all around the world that climate change is leading to more frequent and extreme weather events, so everything suggests that we may be going in that direction,” says Lomeo.
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Guide to Greater Kruger + Afrika Odyssey finale + Gambella NP
Well, our tusker-count article has certainly got people talking! Two common themes have emerged so far from the threads we are monitoring:
many non-trophy hunters did not know that Southern Africa also has tuskers. Perhaps this is because our Kenyan colleagues have done a far better job at celebrating these icons. Did you know that five of the Magnificent Seven of the late 20th century Kruger National Park era had tusks weighing more than 120 pounds on each side? One giant – João – weighed in at 154 and 132 pounds! None of the current Kruger tuskers seem anywhere near João’s size, but some are impressive beasts indeed. In 2015, one of the largest elephants in this region was shot in Zimbabwe by a German property mogul. Those tusks weighed in at 121 and 123 pounds. An era is slipping us by …
VERY few tourists and even researchers have seen a tusker. One researcher commented: “My wife and I have been involved in elephant conservation for the past 12 years, mainly in Ruaha, and visited the Serengeti. We have never seen a tusker, despite flying hundreds of hours over Ruaha at low level.”
I wonder when my colleagues running influential tourism companies will stick their heads above the parapet and sound the alarm bells about the role of trophy hunting in rapidly diminishing tusker numbers. With a few notable exceptions, the tourism industry maintains a resounding silence on the matter. Does your safari company care? Just asking.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
High in the Maluti mountains of Lesotho, a fascinating relationship unfolds between crows and a newly identified psychoactive mushroom, Psilocybe maluti. Known locally as koae-ea-lekhoaba, or “crow’s mushroom”, its name reflects a curious observation: pied crows consume these toffee-capped fungi. What’s more, the mushroom may depend on animals like crows for spore dispersal.
While a recent curiosity for scientists, the mushroom has long been used by Basotho diviners to induce trance-like states. However, knowledge of the mushrooms’ impact on crows remains speculative. Are the crows drawn to its psychoactive properties, or merely after insects on the cow dung heaps where these mushrooms grow?
This week we take a deep dive into Greater Kruger – offering you all the travel tips and insight you need for planning a divine safari to this iconic destination. And, we celebrate the successful completion of Kingsley Holgate’s Afrika Odyssey expedition to all the African Parks (AP) protected areas across the continent. It has been a thrilling journey, and we have so enjoyed Sheelagh Antrobus’s narration of the adventure. Don’t miss the last story in this series below. We also have a look at the latest protected area that has now entered AP’s orbit: Ethiopia’s Gambella National Park.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
This safari delivers two of Africa’s most popular safari meccas: the iconic Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe and Chobe – Botswana’s most popular national park. Enjoy an activity every day, from river cruises to game drives, a helicopter flip above Victoria Falls and, for the more adventurous, bungee jumping and river rafting – and so much more!
Finding wild dogs + Victoria Falls safari – 14 days – from US$13,735pps
This unforgettable 14-day journey through Southern Africa, led by expert guides, will take you to the best spots to see endangered African wild dogs. Visit Hwange, Mana Pools, Linyanti and Khwai, and stop over in Victoria Falls. Experience guided bush walks, game drives, mokoro excursions and canoe trips – all in search of painted wolves.
The spray of Victoria Falls, abundant wildlife in Chobe National Park, and a sunset cruise down the Great Zambezi… what an adventure Leslie and Carol had on their African safari! The pair from the United Kingdom spent six days on a memorable AG trip. Here’s what they had to say about their experience:
“Awesome… we had an amazing time, especially at Chobe Game Lodge – top-class accommodation and an exceptional itinerary!! Whilst Victoria Falls Safari Lodge was also very good, going to Chobe afterwards was the icing on the cake. Thanks for your recommendation – a great experience that definitely exceeded our expectations!” – Leslie, UK
WATCH: Incredible footage of a hyena attempting to make a meal of a pangolin. Don’t fret – the story has a happy ending for the pangolin, which disappeared into a dense and impenetrable thicket after the encounter. From our archives. (01:00) Click here to watch
The Greater Kruger is a giant among conservation landscapes in Southern Africa, standing alongside renowned destinations like Botswana’s Okavango Delta and Kenya’s Maasai Mara National Reserve in its iconic status and vast offering for safari goers.
The complement of Greater Kruger to Kruger National Park and surrounding private reserves creates one of Africa’s largest protected areas. At the heart of the Greater Kruger vision is that conservation can drive the region’s economy, resulting in thriving landscapes for wildlife and people.
What exactly is the Greater Kruger?
Greater Kruger refers to the various private and community game reserves adjacent and open to the western boundary of South Africa’s Kruger National Park. Cooperating across boundaries, Greater Kruger’s partner reserves — Sabi Sand, MalaMala, Timbavati, Klaserie, Umbabat, Balule, Thornybush, and the community-owned reserves of Manyeleti, Letaba Ranch, and Makuya — have committed to collaborate with the Kruger National Park to create a managed conservation landscape that’s almost the size of Rwanda.
Gathering to drink in Sabi Sand
Over 4,000 private individuals hold some stake in the various private reserves that comprise Greater Kruger. Historically, many were predominantly marginal agricultural properties and consumptive-use hunting farms that transitioned to conservation and began managing their lands primarily for wildlife rather than livestock. In 1993, many of these private owners agreed to remove the fences between their reserves and the Kruger National Park, creating the Greater Kruger landscape.
Historically, community reserves have received minimal investment compared to other private reserves. The exception is MalaMala due to its unique history—its private ownership was transferred to the Nwandlamhari community in a landmark deal in 2013.
The Boundless landscapes of Greater Kruger
Spanning the Sand, Olifants and Limpopo River systems, Greater Kruger comprises woodlands, wetlands, and grasslands. The Greater Kruger region features a diverse mosaic of landscapes and vegetation types. These ecosystems support abundant wildlife, forming one of Africa’s richest biodiversity hotspots.
Riverside safari magic in Greater Kruger
The terrain varies from flat plains to gently rolling hills, with some areas featuring rocky outcrops and ridges that provide shelter for smaller mammals and reptiles. Vegetation in Greater Kruger mirrors the broader savannah biome, with northern regions dominated by hardy mopane woodlands along lower-lying areas, characterised by their resilience to dry conditions and essential role in feeding elephants and other browsers. Moving southward, the landscape transitions into mixed Combretum woodlands, where bushwillows and marulas thrive alongside open grasslands, creating ideal habitats for grazing herbivores and the predators that follow them. Along river courses and seasonal drainage lines, lush riverine forests of jackalberry, sycamore fig, and fever trees create shaded, fertile corridors teeming with birdlife and aquatic species. These reserves also feature iconic Lowveld vegetation, including scattered baobabs and granite koppies dotted with aloes and other drought-tolerant plants. The interplay of these landscapes and vegetation types forms a rich tapestry of habitats that supports an extraordinary diversity of wildlife.
Healthy ecosystems sustain tourism by supporting wildlife, but even more importantly, provide essential services like water regulation and purification for wildlife and human populations. Rivers and wetlands in Greater Kruger act as natural filtration systems, providing cleaner water and managing water flow, which is crucial for agriculture, drinking water, and sanitation outside the park. Greater Kruger’s forests, grasslands, and wetlands also sequester carbon, helping to mitigate climate change.
The abundant wildlife of Greater Kruger
Greater Kruger’s woodlands, wetlands, and grasslands provide critical habitat for an extraordinary array of wildlife, with its open system enabling fauna to move between the national park and private and community reserves.
Wildlife viewing in Greater Kruger is unmatched. Here, a lion pride takes down a buffalo in Sabi Sand
Iconic species include the Big Five—lion, leopard, elephant, rhino, and buffalo—alongside cheetahs, wild dogs, and hyenas. Its diverse habitats support giraffes, zebras, antelope species like kudu and impala, and smaller mammals such as honey badgers and porcupines. Rivers and wetlands attract hippos, crocodiles, and abundant birdlife, including eagles, hornbills, and kingfishers. Reptiles like pythons and monitor lizards are also common. This rich biodiversity thrives in Greater Kruger’s well-preserved ecosystems, making it a premier destination for wildlife enthusiasts and conservation efforts.
Significantly, the north-south shape of the Kruger National Park is not optimal for seasonal wildlife migrations, so the additional range provided by the reserves on the western boundary of the national park makes an important difference to the functioning of the ecosystem.
While other protected areas in Africa—like the Serengeti National Park, Maasai Mara National Reserve, and Etosha National Park—are renowned for specific aspects (the Great Migration in Serengeti and Maasai Mara, or the stark landscapes of Etosha), Greater Kruger’s all-around offerings combine large-scale wildlife conservation, visitor accessibility, historical significance, and various ecosystems, making it unique in the African context.
Spotting a giraffe roadblock in Thornybush
Large mammals like carnivores and elephants play a critical role in maintaining Greater Kruger’s ecosystem and the benefits it provides. As landscape architects, elephants create clearings in wooded areas as they move around and feed, which lets new plants grow and forests regenerate naturally. They also disperse their dung and tree and other seeds over vast distances, promoting healthier vegetation. Meanwhile, predators like lions, cheetahs, and wild dogs help balance the ecosystem by keeping herbivore populations healthy and providing food for scavengers like hyenas, vultures, and smaller predators that recycle nutrients into the ecosystem.
Visiting Greater Kruger
Not all parts of Greater Kruger are equal or equally accessible to visitors. Visiting the Kruger National Park is different to visiting Greater Kruger private and community reserves. While they share a common management blueprint, each protected area has its social and conservation history and offers a distinctive safari experience.
Most private reserves are supported by private funding through a world-renowned high-end tourism market. The reserves of Greater Kruger limit visitor access to overnight stays at exclusive lodges with no self-drive and few self-catering options.
Enjoying a magical view of the boundless Londolozi landscape, in Sabi Sand
Relatively high prices and strict access control for private reserves in the Greater Kruger result in low visitor numbers compared to the neighbouring Kruger National Park. They also offer off-road driving (by experienced guides), night drives, bush walks and other activities that guarantee memorable wildlife encounters and experiences for those who choose and can afford to visit them. And they have become a critical band of protection for the Kruger National Park, helping to counter wildlife crime.
Most Greater Kruger reserves can only be experienced by overnight guests
Conserving the most valuable assets of Greater Kruger
Regarding the brass-tacks management of Greater Kruger, the Associated Private Nature Reserves (APNR) is responsible for managing wildlife populations, including shared efforts in monitoring species, anti-poaching measures, and habitat conservation. The APNR is an affiliation of the reserves Timbavati, Klaserie, Balule, Umbabat, and Thornybush. Together, they coordinate with Kruger National Park and act as a single body, sharing resources and adhering to shared conservation policies under the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area.
While the reserves operate as private tourism destinations, they are subject to agreements with SANParks (South African National Parks). This ensures that tourism activities like game drives and lodge operations align with conservation goals. The APNR also conducts research and collects data on wildlife dynamics, population trends, and habitat use, contributing to the overall scientific understanding of the Greater Kruger ecosystem.
Hunting does occur in some of the Greater Kruger reserves. It is governed by the South African government’s conservation authorities, such as the Limpopo and Mpumalanga provincial agencies, and specific reserve-management policies. Each year, these authorities assess wildlife populations, conservation needs, and ecological impact to determine quotas for hunting. The fees generated from hunting permits and trophy hunting contribute to conservation funding within the reserves that allow this activity. While hunting in Greater Kruger is managed with an emphasis on sustainability and conservation, it remains a controversial practice. Ethical considerations regarding trophy hunting, especially of iconic or endangered species, are often debated. There is no hunting in Sabi Sand or MalaMala.
Private reserves of Greater Kruger ensure that activities like game drives meet the conservation perimeters set by SANParks
The APNR plays a critical role in anti-poaching strategies, with dedicated ranger teams, surveillance technologies, and cooperation with SANParks to protect species like rhinos and elephants.
All reserves in the Greater Kruger landscape face wildlife and environmental crime. The Greater Kruger Environmental Protection Foundation (GKEPF) is a registered not-for-profit organisation that assists with the cooperation and coordination needed to prevent poaching and harmonize approaches to reporting, technology, and partnerships in the landscape by working with the various reserves. The Greater Kruger Area is home to South Africa’s largest rhino population. Therefore, it is a critical area for their conservation. The government and non-profit entities, including GKEPF and its partners, continue to commit funds and resources to combat these crimes.
Sabi Sand is one of the best areas in South Africa for spotting leopards
Highlight: Known for its exclusive lodges and leopards, Sabi Sand offers unrivalled encounters with these elusive cats amid rich riverine landscapes.
The conservation history of Sabi Sand began in 1898 when the area became part of the Sabie Reserve (proclaimed in 1902), which incorporated the Kruger National Park. In 1926, the National Parks Act of South Africa was passed, and private landowners adjacent to the newly proclaimed Kruger National Park were excised. Some of these landowners formed the Sabie Reserve in 1934. It became the 52,000-hectare* Sabi Sand Wildtuin in 1948. Today, the reserve’s reputation for luxury, exclusivity, and exceptional wildlife sightings, particularly leopards, makes it a sought-after safari destination globally. Sabi Sand’s lodges support conservation through tourism revenue. The reserve limits visitor numbers, and its lodges offer exclusive, immersive experiences.
Access: Only overnight guests can access Sabi Sand. Most visitors fly to Hoedspruit’s Eastgate Airport, Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport, Skukuza Airport, or private airstrips. Experienced guides lead all activities, and lodges offer exceptional personalised service, gourmet dining, and private game viewing.
MalaMala Game Reserve – read more
MalaMala offers a Big 5 experience without the crowds
Highlight: MalaMala is distinguished by its vast traversing area. It offers exclusive, crowd-free wildlife sightings and access to 20 kilometres of the Sand River.
MalaMala also formed part of the historic Sabie Game Reserve. In 1927, just after the Kruger National Park was proclaimed, 13,200 hectares between the National Park and the Sabi Sand Reserve were purchased privately and developed for tourism. In 1962, MalaMala became the first private reserve in South Africa to prohibit hunting and transition to purely photographic safaris. In a landmark land restitution deal in 2013, the ownership of MalaMala was transferred to the Nwandlamhari community. A co-management agreement allowed community ownership while maintaining the reserve’s conservation and tourism operations. The reserve is on the southeastern side of Greater Kruger, away from the busier western boundaries, and its traversing areas are carefully managed. This means sightings are exclusive, with minimal vehicle presence. Mala Mala’s lodges support conservation through tourism revenue.
Access: MalaMala only caters to overnight guests. Most visitors fly to Hoedspruit’s Eastgate Airport, Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport, Skukuza Airport, or private airstrips within the reserve. All activities are guide-led, and hospitality is high-end, personal, and exclusive, with excellent game viewing.
Timbavati Private Nature Reserve – read more
A white rhino in Timbavati
Highlight: Timbavati is famous for its diverse wildlife, including predators and large herds of buffalos and elephants. It’s also increasingly recognised for linking conservation goals with socio-economic development.
The 53,396-hectare Timbavati Private Nature Reserve was established in 1956 by cattle farmers who saw more potential in wildlife conservation. When its boundary fences with Kruger National Park were removed in 1993, it was already a thriving game reserve sustained by the Timbavati River and seasonal waterholes that draw in diverse wildlife, including elephants, buffalo, and predators. Today, the Timbavati Association manages the reserve, coordinating conservation and eco-tourism efforts among 47 landowners under a unified constitution. Lodges attract local and international visitors, providing jobs for eco-tourism and supporting conservation funding through tourism and limited hunting revenue. Timbavati is known for its efforts to integrate conservation, community empowerment, and sustainability.
Access: Timbavati is only accessible to overnight guests. It’s a 20-minute drive from Hoedspruit’s Eastgate Airport, and the reserve has various private airstrips. Timbavati’s luxury lodges offer conservation-oriented and immersive all-inclusive safari experiences that rival the best in the industry. There are limited self-catering exclusive-use properties and multi-day backpacking or glamping experiences where guests can explore on foot and sleep out.
Klaserie Private Nature Reserve – read more
Dusk dining under African skies in Klaserie
Highlight: Known for its secluded, quiet wilderness, Klaserie is the biggest reserve in the Greater Kruger. It offers a genuinely remote safari experience with fewer crowds.
More than 50 years ago (1972), a collection of private landowners decided to pull down fences between their respective properties and form the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve. Like the other reserves that removed their fences, Klaserie became part of Greater Kruger in 1993. The reserve habitat is varied, with rocky outcrops, riverine trees, open floodplains, sandy drainage lines, and quiet dams. Game drives in the 60,080-hectare Klaserie also stand out for their quieter atmosphere. Only a few vehicles are allowed at any sighting, providing undisturbed wildlife viewing and longer observation times. Its low-density, low-impact ethic safeguards an authentic experience and helps preserve the integrity of the wilderness itself. Klaserie’s lodges support conservation and social development through tourism and limited hunting revenue.
Access and Accommodation: To visit Klaserie, book into one of its lodges. Just 20 minutes from Hoedspruit’s Eastgate Airport, Klaserie is known for personalised safari experiences, with fully catered high-end options, mid-range lodges, tented camps, and exclusive-use villas.
Umbabat Private Nature Reserve – read more
Silence on the banks of a river in Umbabat – a typical experience in this almost-secret destination
Highlight: Umbabat feels like the most secret part of Greater Kruger due to its location, rugged landscape, and relatively low-profile tourism.
Established in 1956 and later expanded, Umbabat Reserve covers around 18,000 hectares between Timbavati and Klaserie on the northern boundary of Greater Kruger. It’s a quieter, more untouched corner of this vast conservation area, attracting those who seek a remote and authentic safari experience. The seasonal Nhlaralumi River, which runs through the reserve, is a lifeline for animals during the dry season and a central feature of Umbabat’s ecosystem. Umbabat has low visitor numbers and few commercial lodges. This means that sightings are rarely shared with other vehicles. The reserve operates under a federal share-block model, and land use, hunting, and conservation decisions are made collectively, with funds pooled for reserve-wide projects.
Access: Umbabat is only accessible to overnight guests. The closest airport is Hoedspruit’s Eastgate Airport. There are limited commercial lodges.
Balule Nature Reserve – read more
Elephants gather for a drink and a splash in the waters of Balule
Highlight: Balule is ideal for visitors seeking a balance between wildlife experiences and their budget. It has several well-known, family-run camps and offers many tourism experiences and accommodation options.
Balule Nature Reserve has an interesting history that mirrors the region’s shift from agricultural land use to conservation. It covers 55,000 hectares along the Olifants River. Established in the early 1990s, Balule was a collection of privately owned farms, many used for cattle grazing. In the early 1990s, conservation-minded landowners consolidated their properties, removing fences to create a larger, contiguous conservation area. This collaborative effort marked the establishment of Balule Nature Reserve, which then joined the Associated Private Nature Reserves and dropped fences with Kruger National Park. You’ll see remnants of its farming past, but the reserve has good populations of lions, elephants, buffalos, leopards and general game. Since its formation, Balule has focused heavily on conservation, with particular attention to rhino protection. Balule is on the Western boundary of the Greater Kruger, which means it’s an important first line of defence in countering wildlife crime. There is limited hunting in the reserve.
Access: You need to be an overnight guest to visit Balule. It’s accessible via Hoedspruit’s Eastgate Airport or private airstrips. Balule offers accommodations ranging from budget to luxury lodges, tented camps, wilderness backpack trails, voluntourism, and eco-tourism training facilities.
Thornybush Private Nature Reserve – read more
Wild dogs in Thornybush
Highlight: The reserve dropped its fences with Kruger National Park in 2017, making it a dynamic piece of the Greater Kruger puzzle with excellent wildlife sightings.
Thornybush covers 14,000 hectares and has become a prominent name in the Greater Kruger ecosystem due to its luxury lodges and well-developed, exclusive tourism infrastructure. In the 1950s, Thornybush transitioned from agricultural land to a conservation-focused reserve but operated with fenced boundaries for decades, keeping wildlife within its borders. However, in 2017, Thornybush took a major conservation step by removing sections of its fencing along the western boundary with the neighbouring Timbavati Private Nature Reserve so wildlife can move freely between Thornybush, Timbavati, and Kruger National Park. Thornybush has since become deeply involved in conservation efforts, particularly in anti-poaching initiatives to protect endangered species like rhinos and supports research and monitoring programs to sustain wildlife populations and habitat health.
Access: To visit Thornybush, guests need to be booked into one of its lodges. It’s accessible via Hoedspruit’s Eastgate Airport or private airstrips within the reserve. It’s known for its luxury eco-tourism experiences, hosting a range of high-end lodges that emphasise a low-impact tourism model.
Manyeleti Game Reserve – read more
Quenching thirst on a hot day, Manyeleti
Highlight: Manyeleti’s affordable safari options aren’t well known, making this a hidden gem in the Greater Kruger landscape. It borders Sabi Sand, so you may just see the area’s famous leopards at a fraction of the price.
During the apartheid era, the South African government designated Manyeleti exclusively for black visitors, which is how the reserve was resourced. And despite being established on ancestral lands of local communities, they were not allowed ownership or management roles despite having some access to the reserve. After the end of apartheid in 1994, land restitution laws enabled local communities to file land claims on areas from which they had been displaced. It’s been a rocky road to restitution, including ongoing disputes around land claims, infrastructure limitations and competition from more established private reserves. In the meantime, the Mpumalanga Tourism and Parks Agency manages the reserve as part of Greater Kruger, and visitors regularly see lions, buffalos, elephants, and leopards. Despite its rich biodiversity, the 23,000-hectare Manyeleti remains less commercialised than other reserves and focuses exclusively on eco-tourism and wildlife conservation.
Access: It’s a 45-minute drive from Hoedspruit’s Eastgate airport. Self-driving and tour operator-run day visits, and game drives are allowed. You can book overnight at the provincially run self-catering rest camp or one of the few high-end, all-inclusive luxury lodges in reserve.
Letaba Ranch Game Reserve – read more
Doing an interpretive trail in Letaba Ranch Game Reserve
Highlight: Letaba Ranch Game Reserve’s roads are less travelled than any others in the Greater Kruger, making it an option for the most self-sufficient travellers eager to explore new areas.
Established in the 1970s, Letaba Ranch is a 42,000-hectare area on Kruger’s border. Initially managed by Limpopo Province, the reserve was intended to reduce human-wildlife conflict by creating a buffer zone between the Kruger National Park and adjacent communities. However, the reserve faced several challenges due to limited infrastructure and resources for effective wildlife management. Community access was restricted, which created tensions as people were displaced from lands they traditionally relied on. Some of these tensions persist today. After apartheid ended in 1994, South African restitution policies allowed communities to claim land from which they had been previously removed. This led to the reserve adopting a model that includes community benefits from tourism and conservation, but it’s been a contested process, and the reserve continues to face conservation, social and security challenges. Its history reflects the broader challenges of integrating conservation with community rights and economic sustainability in South Africa’s Protected areas. Its main economic activity has been hunting.
Access: It’s close to Phalaborwa town. Self-drive day and overnight visitors can visit the reserve but expect limited infrastructure and basic campsites. There is one safari camp in the reserve.
Makuya Nature Reserve – read more
Highlight: Makuya’s Luvuvhu River gorge and mountainous landscape provide stunning vistas, unique wildlife habitats, and a rich cultural history.
Makuya Nature Reserve in the northern part of South Africa’s Limpopo Province has a unique history that intertwines with local communities, land restitution efforts, and conservation. The reserve is about 16,000 hectares and features dramatic cliffs and river gorges that provide some of the most stunning views in the Greater Kruger. It was initially part of a broader effort to establish buffer zones around Kruger National Park, protecting the ecosystem and creating sustainable land use for surrounding communities. The apartheid government, however, displaced indigenous communities and limited their rights to access and use the land. With the end of apartheid in 1994, the community reclaimed their rights to the land. Today, Makuya Nature Reserve is managed through a collaborative structure that involves the Makuya community, Limpopo provincial authorities, and conservation organisations. It is used for both trophy hunting and photographic tourism purposes. The reserve emphasises the conservation of cultural heritage sites within its boundaries, including sacred sites.
Access: Overnight and day visitors are welcome. Accessible from Pafuri Gate in Northern Kruger, Makuya offers rustic, self-catering camps and campsites, as well as eco-tourism activities such as guided game drives, walking safaris (including multi-day backpack trails), and cultural tours. While the reserve’s tourism infrastructure is modest compared to other Greater Kruger reserves, it provides an authentic, off-the-beaten-path safari experience.
Final thoughts
The Greater Kruger stands as a beacon of hope for conservation and community upliftment in Southern Africa. Its breathtaking landscapes, diverse ecosystems, and remarkable wildlife are a testament to the power of collaboration between private reserves, communities, and national parks. This iconic wilderness not only offers unforgettable safari experiences but also exemplifies the profound impact of harmonizing conservation and economic development. As Greater Kruger continues to evolve, it remains a symbol of Africa’s resilience, beauty, and commitment to preserving its natural heritage for generations to come.
Jamie Paterson spends time with the famous leopards of Sabi Sand Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger, on a specialised leopard safari. Read more about her safari here
Check out these two epic photo galleries from safaris to Klaserie here and here.
* The commonly used 65,000-hectare area measurement for Sabi Sand Nature Reserve often includes the area measurement of MalaMala, for which we have provided a separate measurement above.
African Parks has joined forces with the Ethiopian Wildlife Conservation Authority and Ethiopia’s Gambella State to chart a new course for the conservation and development of Gambella National Park. The management partnership, signed this week, is a pivotal step in protecting one of Ethiopia’s most ecologically significant landscapes.
African Parks has signed a long-term management partnership with the Ethiopian Wildlife Conservation Authority (EWCA) and the President of the Gambella Peoples’ National Regional State (the Gambella State) to manage Gambella National Park, the largest national park in Ethiopia.
Gambella National Park has vital social and ecological value. It forms part of an important ecosystem within the Gambella State, on which local communities and wildlife populations rely for survival. The region is inhabited by various pastoral and agricultural Nilotic communities, including the Nuer, Anuak, Majang, and Omotic peoples – comprising a local population estimated to be approximately 400,000. It supports important wildlife populations and extensive wetlands that provide critical habitat for Nile lechwe, buffalo and migratory birds. In addition, Gambella forms a key part of a much larger natural system that stretches across southern Ethiopia and South Sudan, which is home to the largest land mammal migration on Earth. As announced earlier this year, approximately six million antelope move across the broader landscape annually, incorporating Gambella and South Sudan’s Boma-Badingilo National Parks.
Gambella National Park is situated in southwestern Ethiopia and covers approximately 4,575 km2. Gambella was established as a national park in 1973 to preserve its exceptional biodiversity and important wetland habitats. Located between two major river systems, the Baro River in the north and the Akobo River in the south, Gambella is rich in its species variety, including the country’s largest remaining population of elephant and one of the most endangered giraffe populations in the world – the Nubian giraffe.
A herd of buffalo on the move in Gambella
Today’s agreement will allow a collaborative partnership between African Parks, EWCA, the Gambella State, and local communities to channel new investment into the region and develop a comprehensive strategy for conserving the park’s biodiversity. This will enable the region to develop resilience to climate change while promoting the sustainable use of resources to benefit those who depend on them for their livelihoods. To achieve long-term success and sustainable conservation efforts, the partnership will start with a 12-month transition period, enabling African Parks to better understand the needs of the communities living around the park and to co-create a management plan with input from local stakeholders.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? You can plan and book your African Parks safari by clicking here.
This important initiative is made possible by the European Union, the Hempel Foundation, the Wyss Foundation, and various philanthropic funders’ support.
Kumara Wakjira, Director General of EWCA, says: “This partnership is more than just a contractual agreement; it is a testament to the power of collaboration. We look forward to working with both the Gambella Peoples’ National Regional State and African Parks to unlock the full potential of Gambella – not only for Gambella as a region but for Ethiopia as a whole.”
Gambella’s undulating skyline
Alemitu Umod, President of Gambella Peoples’ National Regional State, says: “Gambella National Park is at the heart of our region, and this partnership marks the beginning of a new chapter in Gambella’s story. By working together with African Parks and EWCA, we’ll not only conserve our wilderness but also create economic opportunities for local communities. This is a significant step towards a more prosperous and sustainable future for our region.”
Hailemariam Dessalegn, former Prime Minister of Ethiopia and Board Member of the African Parks Network, says: “This is an important step in the long-term protection of these vital ecosystems and will help secure lasting benefits for the people and wildlife of Ethiopia. African Parks is a recognised partner in protected area management across Africa, and I am confident that this will be a productive and successful partnership, which will see significant benefits for the region and the country.”
Peter Fearnhead, CEO of African Parks, says: “We are honoured to be working with the Ethiopian Wildlife Conservation Authority and with the government and local communities in the Gambella Peoples’ National Regional State. This agreement is a testament to their commitment to safeguard the future of Gambella and its vitally important biodiversity for the benefit of all who rely on it.”
Nile lechwe in Gambella
African Parks currently manages 23 protected areas in 13 countries covering over 20 million hectares in Angola, Benin, Central African Republic, Chad, the Democratic Republic of Congo, Ethiopia, Malawi, Mozambique, the Republic of Congo, South Sudan, Rwanda, Zambia and Zimbabwe.
Throughout this Afrika Odyssey Expedition, from Angola to Mozambique, Rwanda to the DRC and South Sudan, then further north to Congo-Brazzaville, Chad and Benin, among all the incredible stories of hope for wildlife revival and community empowerment we’ve documented, there’s been one particular topic of excited chatter amongst the African Parks staff across the continent. It’s about one of the most ambitious conservation projects focusing on rhinos ever undertaken that will surely go down in history.
“You can’t really say you’ve completed the Expedition without visiting our newest undertaking. I’m sure there’s still room for another calabash filling – call it number 23!” says Dave Wilson, African Parks’ commercial director, who’s been our go-to guy throughout this challenging journey.
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
What took you so long?
And so, back home in South Africa, after reaching Chinko in the Central African Republic, our last wildlife destination, we exchange sweat-stained clobber for jackets and beanies and head into a highveld winter; what a contrast after months of endless heat and extreme humidity. This final, extra leg sees us winding up the spectacular Oliviershoek Pass in the foothills of the Drakensberg, along back roads passing hibernating farmlands and dusty communities, and down a narrow dirt track to an electrified gate and a welcoming party of just two solitary figures.
“Welcome to Rhino Rewild – what took you so long? We’ve been looking forward to seeing you!” shouts jovial Don Jooste, the project manager. “Hope you’re not too tired after your lengthy journey to get here?” adds Kyle Harris from AP’s head office with a tongue-in-cheek grin.
Last year, after failing to find a buyer, a rhino breeding operation of 2,000 southern white rhinos on a 7,800-hectare farm in the North West province became African Parks’ newest responsibility. This enormous herd represents 12% of the world’s remaining southern white rhino population, and with poaching syndicates still cashing in on Asia’s relentless but stupendously ignorant demand for rhino horn, it was an obligation that African Parks couldn’t refuse.
A rhino calf on the farm
Saving rhinos
In 2023, South Africa lost 499 rhinos, with our home province of KwaZulu-Natal setting a grim new poaching record: 325 brutally killed for their horns. The province’s flagship Hluhluwe-Mfolozi Park, established in 1895 specifically to save the last remnants of southern white rhino that once roamed in tens of thousands across south and central Africa, is now ‘Ground Zero’ of the rhino-poaching war, taking over that dreadful mantle from the Kruger National Park, which has seen its rhino population plummet to levels that are too tragic to mention.
95% of KZN’s rhino losses last year occurred in Hluhluwe-Mfolozi. It’s a double tragedy as it is from this iconic park in the 1960s, that conservation legend and our long-time friend Dr Ian Player, along with Magqubu Ntombela, Nick Steele and others, initiated the translocation of hundreds of southern white rhinos to other game reserves throughout their historic range in ‘Operation Rhino’, including into the Kruger.
At the time, it was a conservation world-first that saw Africa’s southern white rhino population increase to around 22,000. But in the past 15 years, more than half have savagely fallen victim to poachers’ guns. The long-term impact on defenceless rhino orphans and the overall birth rate is still to be measured.
In 2014, at 87 years-old, Dr Player (‘Madolo’ as he was known in Zululand) had lost nothing of his passion and verve. Seventy days before he quietly passed away, we observed how he mesmerised youth from around the world and Africa’s new generation of conservationists at the inaugural World Youth Rhino Summit, symbolically held in Hluhluwe-Mfolozi Park in September of that year. Dr Player’s last speech took place on World Rhino Day on the same sloping Mfolozi hillside where he and his team pioneered the darting, capture and relocation of rhinos 50 years before.
Dr Ian Player and Kingsley Holgate in iMfolozi in the 1970s; Kingsley and Sheelagh with Dr Ian Player and team at the World Youth Rhino Summit in 2014
“What we need in the world today is to hear within us the sounds of the Earth crying. The screams of agony of rhinos who have had their horns chopped off whilst still alive should reach out into the hearts of all of us. Rhinos have a particularly plaintive cry, and once heard, it is never forgotten. If we do not pass the baton of conservation to the youth, we are doomed,” Dr Player thundered, captivating the spirit and energy of all present.
Ten years on, the baton is being handed to the next generation across Africa as he requested, but they continue to battle a myriad of challenges to fulfil his wishes, with thousands of brave men and women putting their own lives on the line. Wildlife reserves throughout the continent continue to fork out millions of dollars each year in a herculean effort to conserve what remains of both white and black rhino species from extinction. As mega-herbivores, both species play a critical role in maintaining Africa’s unique biodiversity, and also as treasured icons in many traditional African cultures. It’s a blood-and-gore-soaked tragedy that every member of our expedition team is all too familiar with and one that we’ve worked for years to see the end of.
We, too, will never forget what it is like to stare extinction in the face. In 2016, we visited Ol Pejeta in northern Kenya to spend time with 45-year-old Sudan – the last known male northern white rhino in the world – and Najin and Fatu, the only two known females. Sudan died two years later, and with him went all hopes of resurrecting their species from the abyss by natural means.
Rhino Rewild’s rhinos
As we follow Don and Kyle to Rhino Rewild’s simple HQ, huge paddocks come into view, dotted with enormous grey pachyderms. The dry, flat landscape of the farm is very different from the undulating green hills of Zululand, and we can’t help but feel a bit sorry for the residents. But Don is on a high; 120 dehorned rhinos have already been successfully moved to private reserves that are part of the Greater Kruger Environmental Protection Foundation (GKEPF). It’s the biggest, single rhino relocation ever undertaken and up there with African Parks’ other efforts to rewild at scale, like moving 500 elephants across Malawi to repopulate Nkhotakhota Forest Reserve a few years ago.
“That’s the best part of my job – seeing them return to the wild,” says Don. “If African Parks hadn’t stepped in with the support of the South African government, other conservation NGOs, and donors who provided emergency funding, these rhinos could have been lost to conservation forever. We couldn’t bear the thought…but it’s a mammoth undertaking.”
Waving an arm at the rhino paddocks around us, he continues, “We’re turning this farm into a rhino sanctuary and want to relocate all 2,000 rhinos to well-managed, secure wildlife areas across Africa within 10 years. If we can do it sooner, I’ll be the happiest guy in Africa! But we must also stay ahead of the birthing rate, and we’re not giving away just one or two rhinos at a time. The goal is to establish or supplement populations of at least 50 rhinos across the continent to protect the long-term future of this species. There’s lots of interest from other reserves, plus existing African Parks-managed wildlife areas.”
A rhino and reflection captured by Ross
As we’ve seen throughout this Afrika Odyssey Expedition, AP’s professional approach to managing daunting projects is astonishing. Each rhino paddock has an attendant ‘camp master’ who knows every rhino in their care and reports on their charges twice a day. There’s a giant database detailing every single rhino – age, sex, condition, gestation, birth history, even who’s been saucy with whom – which is updated daily to keep a finger on the pulse of this mega-herd. Security is at the next level.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? You can view and book accommodation to various African Parks destinations by clicking here.
Vet nurse Claudia Andrionie takes us on a tour of the well-managed, ‘no touching’ rhino nursery that cares for babies when their mums aren’t able to. Soft-spoken and reserved, this remarkable lady and her team have successfully reared and returned dozens of orphans back to the semi-wild existence of the farm. The boisterous, comical antics of the tubby tots and pre-teens are testament to the care they receive.
Bottle-feeding rhino orphans on the farmSheelagh feeds one of the rhino calves on the farm
The benefits of rewilding these 2,000 southern white rhinos will be immense. Not only will they improve the genetics of existing but decimated wild populations, but as mega-herbivores, they’ll play a critical role in restoring wild landscapes that will benefit everything from antelope and predators to dung beetles and butterflies and, importantly, increase tourism revenue and job opportunities for neighbouring communities. Talk about an ambitious and challenging vision of hope; Dr Player would be smiling.
As the winter sun starts its descent towards the horizon, there’s one final task to complete. We pile into Don’s bakkie and take a winding track through the rhino paddocks, stopping to talk to some camp masters before reaching a large watering hole. Out comes the well-travelled expedition calabash, looking a bit battered after its 60,000-kilometre, continent-wide journey.
Field ranger Kenneth Ndubane fills the calabash at a waterhole
Field ranger Kenneth Ndubane is given the honour. Balancing on a rock and with great concentration, he dips the calabash for this Afrika Odyssey Expedition’s final, symbolic water-collection ceremony.
There’s no brass band, cheering crowds, or salutary speeches. We stand in silence with just the sound of the wind sighing through a nearby grove of trees as the wintry landscape turns gold in the rays of the setting sun. It’s a fitting ending for this journey that’s taken us to the wild, beating heart of Africa’s most far-flung and extraordinary wildlife areas in 12 countries. It’s a deeply emotional moment; the adrenaline that’s run constantly through our veins this past year begins to dissipate.
The AP team and Kingsley pose for a final calabash momentThe Rhino Rewild team bid the expedition team well
Mission accomplished
Ending the Afrika Odyssey Expedition at African Parks’ Rhino Rewild project is the perfect conclusion: simple, yet incredibly profound with its commitment to making the future better than the present.
When we started out on this, our 41st expedition, with a mission to counter the doom-and-gloom headlines of conservation tragedies and find stories of hope for Africa’s wildlife, wild spaces and the communities that depend on them, to be honest, we weren’t sure what to expect, or if we’d find anything to celebrate. We found plenty.
This conservation, community and culture-focussed expedition across Africa to connect 22 African Parks-managed protected areas in 12 countries ended up zigzagging through 22 countries, and it was one of the toughest journeys we’ve ever undertaken: full of surprises and logistical challenges, a few mishaps and medical emergencies, and plenty of fun that embraced African Parks’ values.
Taking roads less travelled and packed with adventure, we’re inspired by the stories of hope for Africa’s wildlife that we saw first-hand. The two expedition Defender 130s tackled everything we threw at them, carrying tonnes of kit and humanitarian supplies for months on end, through some of the worst terrain and extreme weather in Africa we’ve ever encountered in 30 years of exploration.
One single thing remained constant: the determination, resilience and passion of everyone we met at each African Parks-managed protected area. Taken as a whole, the sheer scope, complexity and visionary thinking that we saw and experienced on this journey is hard to put into words.
To every member of the African Parks family – field rangers, managers and camp staff, community leaders, beneficiaries and children, teachers and health practitioners, government envoys, and so many others – thank you for the great privilege of telling us your inspirational stories and recording them in so many different languages in the Scroll of Hope for Conservation. They are the stories of heroes, so often unsung and unheard.
Don Jooste signs the expedition’s Scroll of Hope for Conservation
This expedition’s Scroll is our legacy to African Parks; a unique ‘magnum opus’ of a thousand hand-written messages and more, illustrating a profound, continent-wide love and dedication to protect Africa’s iconic wildlife and remaining wilderness areas for the benefit of nature and humanity.
At the end-of-expedition ceremony, African Parks’ CEO Peter Fearnhead and the head office team built a ceremonial Isivivane – a traditional African symbol of togetherness on a journey – made from the pebbles we collected from every Park and the Rhino Rewild Project. As Peter, with some emotion, took hold of the Zulu calabash and emptied the symbolic water collected from each park over the Isivivane, he described our year-long journey as the gift of a beautiful necklace, with each park shining like a precious jewel.
After everything we experienced on this Afrika Odyssey Expedition to connect 22 of the most extraordinary national parks on the continent that span over 20 million hectares in 12 countries, in partnership with African Parks and Land Rover, there is one ultimate finding: it is called Hope for Africa’s wildlife – and it’s alive and well. Long may it continue.
Muito Obrigado, Zikomo, Murakoze, Asante Sana, Merci, Shukran, Thank you, on behalf of the Afrika Odyssey expedition team: Kingsley, Ross, Sheelagh, Anna, Mike, Fiona and Graeme
Footnote: People often ask us why we use the spelling, “Afrika”. Afrika* is a continent so varied and unique, we are privileged to call it ‘home’. It can be all good and all bad, all at the same time. It is the cradle of humankind and a land of ‘firsts’: the longest and most historic river in the world (Nile); the highest, free-standing mountain on Earth (Mt Kilimanjaro); the world’s longest and second-deepest lake (Lake Tanganyika); superlative deserts – Sahara (largest), Namib (oldest) and Kalahari (largest mantle of vegetated sand). And home to the biggest diversity of life on Earth, both terrestrial and marine; and the greatest number of human cultures and dialects in the world.
* In Latin, the word ‘Afrika’ means ‘sunny’. In Greek, ‘Aphrike’ means ‘without cold’. Other sources suggest that the name comes from ‘Afri-uka’, which means ‘Motherland’ in the ancient Egyptian language. ‘Motherland’ is still used in reference to Africa today.
Further reading
Is Rhino Rewild the most critical wildlife conservation undertaking of our time? Simon Espley attended the pioneer stage of a visionary project to translocate 2,000 farmed rhinos into the wild. Here’s how it went down
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How many tuskers are left + epic wilderness gallery
This article will shake the tree – let’s see what falls out. To date, the debates about whether the killing of tusker elephants is sustainable have been held in a vacuum – because, bizarrely, there is no published estimate of how many remain. Many trophy hunting supporters claim that there are ‘plenty left’, while conservationists I regularly communicate with believe that tusker populations are reducing faster than the overall African elephant population decline – and they are incredibly concerned. A tiny minority of safari tourists have even seen a tusker.
So, many months ago, my team decided to commence the journey of finding out how many giant elephants are left. As you will read below, we have cast the net out wide and received a mixed catch. It’s important to understand that this is an ongoing process and that our estimate is not based on peer-reviewed science – for reasons explained.
We are bracing for a wave of feedback and hope that some will be useful in sharpening our estimate. I call on relevant researchers, protected area managers, concession utilisers and other experts to contact our editorial team if you have helpful information.
We will, of course, let you know each time we update this African tusker population estimate.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
The Congo Basin: where nature’s imagination knows no bounds.
In the past decade, scientists have discovered 742 new species here, including a crocodile, an air-breathing catfish, snakes, dragonflies, electric fish, an owl, and a monkey with a low haunting call that echoes through the forest: the lesula. The WWF’s latest report, “New Life in the Congo Basin”, celebrates these discoveries and sounds the call for one of the planet’s most vital ecosystems. The Congo Basin rainforests – the “lungs of Africa” – are a biodiversity hotspot and global carbon sink. But between deforestation, poaching, and climate change, it’s a race against time to protect this region. Because losing these species isn’t just ecological – it’s losing stories, lifelines, and the magic of discovery. From catfish to crocodiles, these discoveries remind us that the Congo Basin isn’t just a rainforest – it’s a treasure trove that must be conserved.
This week, we bring you a stirring gallery of images from someone whose blood runs thick with the wilds of Africa. Check out a selection of images from renowned photographer Scott Ramsay’s latest book, Spirit of Africa, below. And don’t miss our report on our investigation to determine how many tuskers remain in Africa.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Here are your front-row seats to see the Greatest Show on Earth. You’ll experience the Great Wildebeest Migration in Kenya from the banks of the Mara River inside the Maasai Mara National Reserve. Sentinel Mara Camp is perched on the river’s high banks, within a cool riverine forest. You’ll also explore Musiara Marsh and Paradise Plains – known for their excellent cat sightings.
Ultimate Kafue, Zambia – 9 days – from $US5,360pps
This safari visits central and northern Kafue National Park, Zambia – teeming with predators and vast herds of lechwe, buffalo and elephants. You’ll explore the Kafue River, vast stretches of river valleys, and the swampy floodplains of Busanga Plains, which are brimful of big cats, prey, and prolific bird life. Enjoy daily guided activities, including game drives, walking safaris, and boating.
A number of lionesses from the Kruger National Park have become part of an exciting project – Kruger’s Pride – that will bring insight into how lion pride behaviour differs in fenced and open systems. Teams from Nelson Mandela University (NMU) and the Southern African Conservation Trust (SACT) successfully fit satellite-tracking collars on seven lionesses, and three more will soon be fitted with collars too.
Kruger’s Pride aims to compare pride behaviour between open and fenced systems. The project will test the effect of pride strength on territory size, measure territory infringement, and test pride aggression response during territory infringements. Stress levels of prides will be compared, as will the ratio of prey resource availability to home-range size.
You can help by sponsoring a collar in full or by donating any amount – large or small – to support this critical conservation project. Learn more here.
WATCH: Birds call him friend: Claver Ntoyinkima, a passionate and dedicated ranger from Nyungwe National Park, is this year’s recipient of the Tusk Wildlife Ranger Award. Claver’s work in conservation, particularly in anti-poaching and driving community involvement in the protection of the environment, has earned him this international recognition. (04:30) Click here to watch
In the absence of peer-reviewed research into the topic, Africa Geographic has embarked on an extended ongoing investigation to estimate the number of tuskers remaining in Africa.
Notes:
This article will serve as a ‘living document’ – subject to ongoing adjustments – as additional information is brought to light. We encourage relevant experts and authorities to contribute to our understanding of this topic. All input will be treated confidentially.
We have not provided a detailed breakdown of tuskers per country, due to the risk this may represent for unprotected elephants. The only exceptions to this rule are where specific populations are public knowledge and relevant authorities and conservation organisations have widely published their numbers.
Africa’s tuskers, also called “super tuskers”, are elephants with at least one tusk weighing 100 pounds (45kg) or more. They are icons of the continent’s heritage. However, their numbers appear to be dwindling, raising concerns about the survival of the big tusk gene. With the overall number of elephants in Africa rapidly declining, safeguarding this genetic trait and working towards their conservation is more important than ever.
How many tuskers are left?
Estimate December 2024:
Based on the information at hand, we estimate that there are 86+ tuskers remaining across Africa. Southern Africa is home to 59+, while East Africa hosts 27+ tuskers. This count excludes Central African forest elephant populations, where tusk measurements are rarely estimated. Anecdotal evidence and video footage suggest the presence of tusker forest elephants, but to date, we have been unable to determine an estimate.
Tusker numbers in Africa – estimate
Southern Africa
59+
East Africa
27+
Central Africa
Unknown
TOTAL
86+
Estimate February 2025:
In early February 2025, news reached us that well-known Amboseli tusker, Paolo, had died. Paolo was found dead in Enchilishili, Lenkisem, 200m from a Maasai boma. No visible injuries were detected, and it is believed he died of natural causes. As Paolo was among those elephants tallied in Africa Geographic’s estimate, the number of tuskers in East Africa has been reduced by one. As of February 2025, based on the information at hand, we estimate that there are 85+ tuskers remaining across Africa. Southern Africa is home to 59+, while East Africa hosts 26+ tuskers. This count once again excludes Central African forest elephant populations.
Tusker numbers in Africa – estimate
Southern Africa
59+
East Africa
26+
Central Africa
Unknown
TOTAL
85+
Sources consulted
We derived the above tusker population estimate by consulting wildlife authorities, protected area managers, conservation organisations, or elephant experts in areas where tuskers are thought to occur. Most responded with helpful insights, many with exact numbers, and some with the names and records of specific tuskers. However, some sources had not yet responded at the time of publication, including researchers from two prominent East African parks.
We also reached out to relevant hunting associations and operators. Those who responded did not provide specific numbers and redirected us to wildlife authorities for their relevant estimates. There are, therefore, significant gaps in our data – which we hope to fill in the coming years.
Challenges in counting tuskers – the variables
Accurately counting tuskers is fraught with difficulties. Many elephants avoid human contact or inhabit remote areas with no associated data, making it impossible to include them in population estimates. Furthermore, methods for estimating tusk size vary between regions, with some authorities focusing on tusk length, others on the circumference of the tusk at the lip, and others identifying tuskers by tusks that scrape the ground. One authority claimed that determining accurate tusk size is not always possible. However, it is worth noting that the same authority allocates trophy hunting quotas based on tusk size – resulting in professional hunters having to estimate tusk size when in the field with clients.
Tusk size is sexually dimorphic, with the tusks of bulls increasing on average at 11cm per year, while female tusks increase at 8.5cm per year (Spinage, 1994). Large tusks are associated with older bulls, not only because elephant tusks grow throughout their lives (Pilgram & Western, 1986) but also because they grow faster towards the latter half of a bull’s life (Laws, 1966; Spinage, 1994). Younger elephant bulls’ tusks increase in weight at 2g per day, i.e. 730g per year. In older bulls, as the tusk pulp cavity fills, the increase in weight accelerates towards the end of the bull’s life (Spinage, 1994).
We do not yet fully understand the genetic mechanisms of tusk size, which impact its heritability. Also, it is essential to clarify that there will always be individual physiological differences within any population. The ageing process (and its effects on reproductive potential) will never be the same for two individual male elephants. This is also true of elephant populations living in different parts of the continent, exposed to various environmental factors and, most importantly, consuming different diets.
Tusker populations fluctuate over time but appear, based on anecdotal feedback, to be diminishing as individuals pass away due to poaching, trophy hunting, natural causes, and human-wildlife conflict.
Emerging tuskers – young elephants with the potential to become tuskers later in life – add further complexities. Some experts provided specific emerging tusker numbers, while others said that emerging tuskers were too many to count. While some are on the brink of becoming tuskers, their exact numbers are difficult to determine, and their graduation to “tusker or super tusker” status cannot be readily estimated. Therefore, emerging tuskers add another uncertain variable to the estimation project. Our estimate above excludes emerging tuskers.
Craig, famous tusker of Amboseli National Park, Kenya
Tuskers – a proportional perspective
Understanding proportional representation within broader elephant populations is critical when assessing tusker populations. For example, the Amboseli ecosystem in Kenya, with a population of ~2,000 elephants, hosts approximately ten tuskers. By contrast, Tsavo’s ~16,000-strong population supports eight tuskers. Amboseli’s higher proportional representation highlights its unique conservation value and the importance of protecting that ecosystem. Kruger National Park hosts ~27,500 elephants, and their recorded tuskers stand at 26, with an additional five large female tuskers who do not fit the 100-pound category.
Threats to the survival of tuskers
Tuskers face numerous threats, including human-wildlife conflict, trophy hunting and poaching, often before they reach their breeding prime. While older tuskers (45–50 years and above) have typically contributed significantly to their population’s genetic diversity, younger tuskers targeted by poachers and trophy hunters represent a more significant genetic loss. The removal of breeding-age elephants with large tusks imposes a selection pressure against genes favouring large tusks, potentially diminishing the occurrence of tuskers over time.
Elephant populations across Africa are in decline, with habitat loss, human-wildlife conflict, and poaching driving their numbers downward. A recent study highlighted these challenges, underscoring the urgency of protecting tuskers and the overall elephant population.
Tuskers are living symbols of resilience, but their continued survival depends on collective action. Protecting them requires addressing systemic issues, from better record-keeping and census methods to enforcing stricter protections against poaching and unsustainable trophy hunting.
As Africa’s last giants roam the savannahs and forests, their fate rests in our hands. Their survival is not just about preserving tusker genes but about honouring the ecological legacy they represent.
Spinage, C.A., 1994. Elephants. T & A D Poyser, London.
Further reading
Amboseli’s super tuskers are down to about 10, jeopardising the integrity of the Amboseli elephant population is in jeopardy. Read more about the trophy hunting of Amboseli’s tuskers here.
Research has uncovered population density declines of 90% for forest elephants and 70% for savannah elephants across Africa in 53 years. Read more here.
AG has partnered with Tsavo Trust – an organisation that monitors the elephant populations of the Tsavo Conservation Area, specifically focusing on tuskers. It does so in close cooperation with the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) and research and conservation partners. Read more about how you can help us save Tsavo’s tuskers here.
The need to protect large-tusked and potentially large-tusked elephants from poaching and excessive selective hunting pressure is more apparent than ever as the progressive decrease in average tusk size over the past three decades is potentially leading to over-exploitation of older bulls. Read more here.
Searching for super tuskers? We spotted three of these legendary elephants in one safari trip – read how we did it here.
Two decades of photographing and writing about Africa, while deeply entrenched in her wilderness. Thirteen countries and countless moments spent falling deeper in love with the continent, its wild places, and its people. That’s what inspired Scott Ramsay’s latest book, Spirit of Africa.
“Wild Africa taught me to be effortlessly immersed in the present moment,” says Ramsay. His book celebrates the human spirit and is a call to protect and expand Africa’s wilderness in an increasingly industrialised world.
This personal and visually stunning work features evocative images and heartfelt writing, taking readers to some of Africa’s last wild places. Ramsay’s anecdotes and conservation stories highlight the wonder of Africa’s landscapes, wildlife, and people. Below, we feature a collection of Ramsay’s photos, thoughts and anecdotes on what inspired Spirit of Africa – in his own words.
Sacred Africa
“It’s an immeasurable privilege to be alive and healthy on this wondrous planet, in the company of Earth’s astonishing biodiversity. If you become fully conscious of this fact, it can alter your thinking and behaviour 180 degrees.
Boundless. Shashe River, Botswana and Zimbabwe, photographed from Mapungubwe National Park in South Africa. “This image strikes a deep psychological chord because it represents Africa from long ago. These elephants are moving across national boundaries, from Botswana into Zimbabwe across the Shashe River, doing something they have been doing for millions of years. The sense of freedom in this photo inspires me”
I want to inspire people to see African wilderness in a new way: as not just a collection of parks and reserves where people go on holiday and where animals are protected (which is, of course, amazing and essential). I want to inspire people to go into African wilderness and connect with the spiritual side of it. It can’t be quantified, but I try to explain its impact on me in Spirit of Africa. Conservation isn’t just about protecting animals and landscapes – it’s about conserving beauty, wonder, awe and freedom. It’s about conserving our human spirit, sanity, and joy.
Ultimately, to be alive and healthy on this planet and to witness all these incredible animals and landscapes can be a deeply recalibrating experience. Perhaps, as a result, they will see African wilderness as I see it – priceless and sacred.
It was a series of moments that shaped my love of African wilderness and inspired Spirit of Africa: Camping in the Kalahari on my own for two weeks. Encountering a bull elephant on foot in Mana Pools. Sleeping under the stars of north-west Namibia. Listening to the chorus of frogs and hippos at night alongside the Zambezi River. Walking a wilderness trail in Imfolozi and watching three white rhinos come down to drink in front of us. Swimming in rock pools in the Aberdare Mountains in Kenya. Sitting alone with a young lowland gorilla in the Congo. Sleeping near a cave covered in Bushmen paintings in the Drakensberg. Bumping into a black rhino in a thunderstorm while on a trail in the Lowveld. Swimming with gully sharks in the icy waters of the Cape. My memory is full of such moments. And the love affair goes on
It’s not just about Africa’s wild animals. The spirit of the people is as powerful. I often make friends with local people in Africa who have so little materially, but are so rich in spirit and kindness. I once met a Datoga woman in Tanzania who seemed to turn a light on inside of me. She couldn’t speak English, but somehow, her spirit shone straight into me. There’s an undeniable energy in Africa that permeates not only its landscapes but also its people. It’s why I included people in this book. The spirit of Africa enriches every human who steps on its soil.
Before the king. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. “I spent a few days with guide Stretch Ferreira in Mana Pools. Stretch has walked these floodplains for over 30 years and knows many of the resident bulls, and they know him. It’s a scary yet transcendental experience to be in the close company of a big bull elephant”Butterfly People. Samburu County, Kenya. “The spirit of Africa gave birth to the spirit of our humanity. I love photographing Africa’s people as much as I enjoy photographing its landscapes and wildlife”Dreamland. Nouabalé-Ndoki National Park, Congo-Brazzaville. “Wali Baï is a small, beautiful shallow lake in Nouabalé-Ndoki National Park, Congo-Brazaville, surrounded by forest. I spent the night there on a small wooden, raised platform. It happened to be full moon, and I spent most of the night watching bull elephants come into the lake to feed on minerals in the substrate. In the early hours of the morning, a thick mist rolled in. The moonlight cast a luminous glow across this astonishing scene”
Plugging into ‘the source’
I didn’t want to make a book that was just pretty pictures with innocuous captions. The human world, in most places, seems to be in a big mess, and people are struggling with mental and spiritual issues. Major wars are going on, but the biggest war is the one humans have been waging on Mother Earth since the agricultural revolution. We are living in an era of immense ecocide, and the impact on our human psyches is massive. I wanted to address this theme in the book. We all seek meaning in our lives and find it in different ways. In my case, African wilderness gave my life meaning. I felt like a caged animal when I worked in the corporate world. That life suits many people, and I respect that, but it wasn’t for me. I felt so disconnected from my body, my mind, and my spirit.
When I left that world and started exploring Africa’s wild places as a photojournalist, it was like I had been plugged directly back into the source. I had loads of energy, I was happier than ever, I was more patient, I was calm. I felt like I had been released back into my natural habitat. Everything seemed to flow again. Looking back, I think it was simply the incredibly beautiful and wild environments that rewired my brain and neural pathways.
Consolation. KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. “The rangers in Zululand in South Africa have a tough job. They protect one of the largest black and white rhino populations in Africa, but poachers run rife. This black rhino calf was orphaned when her mother was killed. These two rangers kept watch through the night and consoled the young rhino by talking and stroking its back”Stealth. Lower Zambezi National Park, Zambia. “For me, this image epitomises leopards. A blur of camouflaged dots moving in crepuscular light, elusive, intentional and ghostly”Fortunate. Lower Zambezi National Park, Zambia. “I was doing a shoot for Conservation Lower Zambezi in Zambia, and late one night, the rangers came to my tent to tell me they had rescued a pangolin from poachers. They asked me to quickly take a photo before they released it back into the wildThe opening. Odzala-Kokoua National Park, Congo-Brazzaville. “Lango Baï is a clearing in the Congo rain forest in Odzala-Kokoua National Park, Congo-Brazzaville. A pristine place where it’s possible to sense the origins of the very first primates, our ancestors”
Ancient rituals of Africa
Our human spirit comes from Africa. We evolved for millions of years in Africa, and our bodies, minds – and I suggest, our spirits – are designed by and for Africa. We have populated the rest of the world, but Africa remains our original home. The spirit of the land still thrives here, and when you live in Africa or visit Africa, you reconnect with your human essence.
When you sit around a small campfire in an African wilderness area, under the stars, and listen to lions roaring nearby, you are conducting a ritual that connects you with tens of thousands of generations of your ancestors. That shouldn’t be underestimated. If we lose the wild animals and the wild landscapes, we will lose our human essence.
Humans need to experience awe and vulnerability regularly. A regular sense of awe and vulnerability undergirds a spiritual, meaningful life. And wild Africa still offers us this awe and shared vulnerability.
Ancient. Solio Game Reserve, Kenya. “Solio Game Reserve is one of the last strongholds of white rhinos in East Africa. There are few more magnificent sights than a crash of rhinos”Cobra Kepile. Makgadikgadi Pans, Botswana. “Cobra is a Shuakwe Bushman, one of the last authentic Bushmen. He is one of the most ecologically intelligent people I have met. I spent a few days with him in central Botswana. He lives by fundamental needs. These needs are water, food, shelter, community and fire. Anthropologists generally agree that these are the only things humans need for happiness. Much of the developed world is overloaded with unnecessary distractions and excessive consumerism. Is it any wonder that most people are struggling with mental health issues like depression and anxiety?”One with ocean. Quirimbas Archipelago, Mozambique. “I photographed this diver from a helicopter as we flew from the islands to the mainland. In some ways, I envied this man as he powered his way through the shallow waters, diving down for lobster every few minutes, immersed in the warm waters of Mozambique. Life isn’t physically easy for a lot of people living in Africa, but I’ve often thought that maybe it is easier for them to find meaning than those in cities and towns where modern conveniences have disconnected us from our wild origins”Outliers. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. “Africa still has the greatest number of large wild terrestrial mammals on Earth. As an African, I am exceptionally proud of Africa’s wild places and the amazing conservationists who ensure these places are protected and nurtured. We are showing the world how to conserve wilderness and wild animals, and the local people in Africa deserve a lot of credit for tolerating the presence of potentially dangerous wildlife”
Hope for a connected future
Humanity needs to learn how to share with the rest of nature. Large, connected natural habitats are the foundation of all conservation efforts.
I write about lions, pangolins and elephants and their future. Africa has amazing conservationists and communities who are doing impactful work. The significant danger is that these animals end up in parks that aren’t connected to each other, and then every park becomes a glorified zoo that has to be managed intensively. We have to ensure that wild animals can move large distances if they need to – to breed, and feed, and thrive. They need freedom, just like us.
But the people of Africa give me hope. Africa has the best and most committed conservationists on the planet. We still have the biggest numbers and diversity of wild, terrestrial fauna on the planet. Much of the world has lost most of its large mammals.
My land. Busanga Plains, Kafue National Park, Zambia. “This is an increasingly rare sight in Africa: a big male lion moving where he wants to, with the entitlement of freedom that lions deserve in Africa, yet are increasingly denied by human impacts and presence. There are fewer than 25,000 wild lions in Africa, and probably fewer than 2,500 sexually mature males”Curiosity. Mahale Mountains National Park, Tanzania. “Mahale is one of the most photogenic parks in Africa. I did a shoot for Nomad Africa, on the edge of Lake Tanganyika, and was fortunate to spend some time photographing the chimps in the forest above the lake. These chimps have formed part of the longest-running chimpanzee study in Africa, by Kyoto University in Japan”Another world. Noubale-Ndoki National Park, Congo-Brazzaville.”I took this image with a drone, with permission from Dr Claudia Stephan, the lead researcher on gorillas in Nouabale-Ndoki. She was present as I flew the drone over Mbeli Baï”Kindred. Quirimbas Archipelago, Mozambique. “Quantum physics tells us that everything is one. I have sometimes felt this for myself when immersed in African wilderness. When I dived in the Quirimbas with these dolphins, I felt like I was part of Mother Earth”
In many ways, we are showing the rest of the world how to work with local communities and ensure that humans, wild places and wild animals thrive together. It’s not a perfect picture, but it is generally better than anywhere else.
As one of my unofficial mentors, Jonathan Kingdon, wrote: ‘Africa is rich. It is the rest of the world that is poor.’
I think the world is waking up to the fact that wild, pristine nature is the foundation on which human societies thrive. And Africa has the finest diversity of wild places on the planet.”
About Scott Ramsay
Scott Ramsay’s latest book, Spirit of Africa, takes readers on an immersive journey to many of the continent’s last remaining wild places. The book includes more than 100 powerful images of stunning landscapes, teeming wildlife and beautiful people.
Scott Ramsay is a photographer, author and adventurer. He specialises in wildlife and conservation in Africa’s national parks and nature reserves, including private game reserves and community conservancies. Prior to working for himself, Scott worked on South African travel magazine Getaway, after escaping the corporate financial and marketing world. Scott also received the SAB Environmental Prize for Photography in South Africa. He is a member of the Wildlife and Environment Society and Botanical Society of South Africa. He regularly contributes photographs and stories to various magazines and online platforms. Through his work, he hopes to inspire others to experience the African wilderness for themselves – and then to stand up and speak up for this continent’s incredible wild places.
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Elephant decline + unforgettable Mara safari + 2 gorilla adventures
I have a dilemma. Our bushveld home town is growing rapidly – the same rural transformation that has taken place in so many formerly quaint villages across the country. A modern private hospital recently opened its doors, another shopping centre has broken ground, and commercial buildings are springing up everywhere. We even have a padel court!
Growth is, of course, the holy grail for happy humans, so heaven forbid I express misgivings. But along with growth comes all the other stuff, like traffic, noise, power grid and water issues, crime, and the eradication of that village feel we cherish – the very reasons we moved here from Cape Town some six years ago.
Of course, I recognise that I am part of the problem. By settling here, we added to the impetus. And I realise that my dilemma is that of a privileged person – well insulated against life below the poverty line.
OK, enough grumbling from me. The early rains I mentioned a few weeks ago have transformed the landscape into a green oasis, migratory birds have arrived, tortoises and chameleons are mobile, and the air is pregnant with the promise of more rain. Life is good!
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
As if contending with lion-hunting eagles and human super-predators weren’t enough for Africa’s big carnivores… Did you know that there is a microscopic threat that might be the most sinister puppet master of them all? Toxoplasma gondii, a parasite best known for turning rats into cat-chasers, has been pulling some pretty deadly strings in hyena cubs in Kenya’s Maasai Mara over the years, causing them to self-sacrifice themselves to lions.
Hyena cubs infected with the parasite boldly stroll right up to lions – their mortal enemies – essentially volunteering as dinner. Why? Because T. gondii can only reproduce inside felids. Yes, this single-celled schemer manipulates its hosts into self-sacrifice to hitch a ride to its preferred breeding ground. A three-decade-long study found infected hyena cubs were far likelier to die at the mouth of a lion than their uninfected peers. Who knew the circle of life had an MVP with such ominous finesse?
This week, we take a photo journey with Kathy West into unforgettable Maasai Mara, and break down the worrying study currently doing the rounds that shows major declines in elephant population density across Africa.
DID YOU KNOW?
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This Rwandan gorilla-trekking adventure will take you through pristine afro-montane forests packed with golden monkeys, colourful Rwenzori turacos, and prehistoric three-horned chameleons. And, of course, the star of your safari is a silverback mountain gorilla, accompanied by his family – spotted in the depths of paradise. Trekking for gorillas is described by many as a life-changing experience. This is one not to be missed.
Lowland gorillas in Odzala-Kokoua NP, Congo-Brazzaville – 8 days – from US$3,910pps
Go beyond the safari norm to explore remote areas off the beaten path. Join us to find western lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffalos, bongos, dwarf crocodiles, huge flocks of grey parrots and green pigeons, and other iconic wildlife species. See all of these specials in the forests, baïs and rivers of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote northwest of Congo-Brazzaville.
Mark and Elaine Patterson from Australia recently embarked on an epic 23-day AG safari adventure. Their journey included Maasai Mara National Reserve in Kenya, a visit to the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, gorilla trekking in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park, and a Big-5 safari in Greater Kruger. In Cape Town, they enjoyed wine tasting, whale watching, and exploring the Cape Peninsula. Their unforgettable trip concluded with a serene island retreat in Mauritius. Here’s what they had to say about their experience:
Amazing Africa– “Just had an amazing trip to Africa that AG put together for us, based on a list of things that we wanted to see and do. They did it all and did an amazing job that exceeded our expectations all the way. Four countries, three safaris, flights, transfers, guides and drivers, over 3.5 weeks – and everything went to plan with no issues. Phenomenal job Christian, AG and team!” – Mark Patterson
WATCH: A pack of hungry wild dogs with a large litter of pups to feed, scavenging hyenas, and an intense standoff – right outside the front door of Tinswalo’s Manor House. Watch this incredible scene play out in Manyeleti Game Reserve, Greater Kruger. (11:41) Click here to watch
After 11 years since her last African sojourn, primatologist Kathy West revisits the iconic Maasai Mara on an AG safari. From Sentinel Mara Camp’s sustainability to intimate wildlife encounters, her journey highlights the profound connection between conservation, photography, and the wild beauty of Africa.
It had been 11 years since I had been on my first safari. I’ve travelled to many places since that trip to Tanzania, including South and Central America, the Galapagos, Madagascar, Mexico, and Uganda. Still, few things fill me with the same contentment and happiness as being in the large expanses of the savannah and wooded hillsides of Serengeti National Park and the Maasai Mara National Reserve, with their enormous biodiversity. This past June, flying in low over the Musiara Airstrip, I caught a glimpse of a herd of giraffes, and I felt a deep sense of gratification that I could return to this incredible place.
As a conservation photographer and primatologist, I spent months researching and looking for the perfect opportunity for a photo safari for myself and my husband. I was excited when I found this incredible opportunity with Africa Geographic. AG director Christian Boix arranged a magical 7-day trip for us at Sentinel Mara Camp on the banks of the Mara River. He carefully considered my requests to have a safari where we could have slow-paced drives to look at a diversity of animals, from insects to birds to elephants, explore interesting natural areas, and have plenty of time to watch and wait for an opportunity to take creative photographs. I wanted to go out just before dawn each morning and stay out all day until sunset, with a packed breakfast and lunch. My goal was to have many animals and few people, and I was grateful that we were able to experience that in the peaceful and elegant Sentinel Mara Camp. Everything was beautifully planned and executed, and the camp itself was perfect.
A young elephant calf stays close to its motherA cheetah surveys its surroundings in the Musiara Marsh area of Maasai MaraA Coke’s hartebeest posse on the plains
The perfect plan and the perfect guide
As a conservation photographer, I am committed to viewing wildlife and taking photos in the least intrusive and disruptive way possible. I appreciate the patience of ‘the wait’ and the enjoyment of watching an animal for long periods. To get the most honest image of the true nature of an animal, one must be nearly invisible, silent, patient, and respectful. If there is ever a question about my presence having a negative impact, I always choose the safety and stress level of the animal, and I will leave without “the shot.”
With my background in animal behaviour and desire to have a patient and understanding guide, I couldn’t have asked for a more perfect match than our Maasai guide, Benson Muli. We found a like-minded companion in Benson. We shared a mutual respect for wildlife and a belief in good ethics as visitors to the animal’s habitat, and we had many deep conversations about conservation. I was so impressed with Benson’s knowledge of all the animals, his ability to spot and predict their movements and behaviour, and his sense of knowing where to put me in the perfect position for my photographs. He consistently demonstrated strong ethics in respecting the animals, patience with my requests, excellence in driving and navigating the Mara, and kindness towards other guides and drivers. Benson also demonstrated impressive diplomacy with the rangers and wardens and high ethics in always putting the animals’ welfare above everything else. I learned so much from him and greatly appreciated his professionalism, knowledge, and insights.
Benson Muli sets up a sumptuous lunch
Celebrating the primates of Mara
I can happily watch primates for hours on end. We had some wonderful moments with a baboon troop just up the river from camp – settling into a large tree for the night, fighting on a precariously high branch, seeing juveniles being scolded and throwing temper tantrums with fear grimaces, and sweet, relaxed family moments of grooming and simply looking lovely in the early evening surrounded by tall flaxen grasses, shining in the setting sun.
Kathy’s party spent hours watching baboons on their safari
A new love for buffalo
I have entirely changed my perception of Cape buffalo. Previously, I thought they were just slow-moving, behaviorally and intellectually dull animals. I now know that I was wrong on all counts!
We had the opportunity to watch many buffaloes outsmart and outmanoeuvre hunting lions individually and when coordinating within the herd. I was impressed with how strategic they could be and how wise and caring they were for their herd members, willing to risk their own lives to help out a trapped member.
A buffalo chases lions away from his herd
A magnificent Mara tower
From the moment that Benson picked us up at the airstrip to our return a week later, we were honoured to get to know a giraffe family based near the camp. The drive from Musiara airstrip to Sentinel Camp is only a short distance. Still, we began our safari the moment we arrived, and we spent hours watching these giraffes socialise, neck, forage, and move with their incredibly graceful gait.
We were happy to begin our safari this way and were in no hurry to reach camp when we could watch the giraffe – lunch could wait! Each day had moments with this family, which included two adorable calves – we saw the family in the misty sunrises and golden sunsets necking, affectionately rubbing heads, mounting, foraging, and ‘flehming’ (an interesting lip curl that allows smells to reach the vomeronasal organ on the roof of their mouth which analyses the level of hormones in the female’s urine). We enjoyed every moment with them, getting to know each individual deeper. My favourite was the two-month-old calf with fuzzy pompoms on top of its ossicones.
Kathy spent a lot of time with a local giraffe herd
Lion cub antics and impressive kills
Returning 3 times over 2 days to a hippo carcass allowed us to watch a story of predators and prey and the stages of reducing a 1,800 kg animal to clean bones and rubbery skin. Subadult male lions one morning, females and cubs in the afternoon and hyenas, vultures, and jackals the following morning quickly consumed the hippo. Watching the young cubs experiment with chewing on the exposed tendons and strings of muscle was fun. Still young enough to be nursing, they were not very serious about getting nutrition from the carcass, but experimented with feeding between bouts of play. There were also several interesting social interactions where one of the youngest cubs was “asking” an older sibling to feed in a choice spot, getting reprimanded, showing a wide range of submissive postures and facial expressions, and finally receiving “permission” to feed.
On another occasion, we found ourselves within meters of a pride of lions feeding on a freshly killed buffalo. It gave us the experience of hearing (and feeling through the deep sounds) the grumbling, growling, and crunching sounds of feeding. This image was taken as we left the area – a lioness had eaten her fill and had fallen asleep with the animal’s leg as a pillow.
An exhausted and sated lioness falls asleep in the embrace of her buffalo kill
Drama on the marsh
Our last evening found us with the Marsh Pride on a fresh buffalo kill. About 500m away, we saw that a buffalo had just given birth and was going with the new calf towards her herd. Unfortunately, between herself and her herd was the entire Marsh Pride of 8 lions; behind her were many hyenas and jackals, and the herd was still a long distance away. The next 1.5 hours unveiled interesting strategies and behaviours from the buffalo, lions, hyenas, and jackals. In the end, the newborn calf and the mother buffalo were killed – emotionally difficult to watch, but a rare opportunity to capture images of a multi-species drama unfolding.
Hyenas, next to a herd of buffalo, all watching the lions guarding the buffalo femaleA lion carries off the buffalo calf kill
Birds, birds everywhere
The Mara has an exceptional diversity of bird species, and Benson was extremely knowledgeable about his bird identification, behaviours, and sightings. We were happy to take our time if we saw a bird, and he would help identify the species as I was able to capture images of birds on nests, with chicks, in the last evening light, foraging, parents returning to little ones on the nest, and raptors with prey. With Benson’s help, we got to know special locations to check as we came and went from camp, adding to the feeling of coming home on the Mara.
A white-backed vulture looks on at a buffalo killA grey-crowned crane hunting during the golden hourYellow-billed oxpecker heads out on its morning round
We had many magical moments. We watched grey-crowned cranes hunting in the golden sunset with their crowns lighting up with gold. We witnessed four predation events (my husband kept score like a football match – “cheetahs 1, impalas 1”; “buffalos 3, lions 4”). We enjoyed many hours of watching lions hunt and sleep and cubs play. And we had the privilege of watching the Marsh Pride walk right next to our vehicle.
A cheetah attempts to take down an impala ram
On one occasion, a lion being chased by a buffalo burst out of the bushes just meters away and ran right at us – not frightening, but definitely exciting. We spent quite some time watching the fascinating behaviours of a herd of zebra – affection, challenges, and fighting.
Zebra males pushing and fighting in the herd
We also enjoyed breakfast by a river, with elephants grazing on the far side and hippos below us. We were served elegant meals alongside the vehicle with bright tablecloths, delicious food and incredible scenery. And Benson was an attentive waiter for our every need.
Kathy and other Sentinel guests enjoying lunch together as new friendsBurns on the horizon make a dramatic backdrop for a herd of elephants
Sentinel Mara Camp
You can’t ask for a more stunning setting in a quiet and peaceful forest, just two minutes away from sunrise views of giraffes, elephants, cheetahs, buffalo, hippos, impala, eland, topi, dik-diks, serval, vervet monkeys, baboons, and lions. That was all just in our “backyard”!
The sustainable camp is run entirely on solar power. I appreciated all of the incredible details – from an utterly plastic-free camp to so many small comforts in the spacious tent, to our fantastic helper Jonathon, who cleaned our tent impeccably every day while we were out, tailored our showers to exactly our preferred temperature, took care of our laundry, and made sure we had our coffee and biscuits at the early hour we needed them to get on the trail before sunrise. Each meal, whether a picnic on the road or an elegant meal in camp, was delicious, and we were impressed with every person’s attentiveness to our preferences and dietary restrictions.
The sunset view from Sentinal Mara
Each morning, when we climbed in the vehicle for our chilly start to the day, we’d find hot water bottles and a warm Maasai blanket on our seats. We started our day so cosy and comfortable.
One fun event at Camp was how the staff surprised us with a celebration for our wedding anniversary. We were the only ones in the camp that evening, and while we were enjoying the fire pit and the hippos softly grunting, we suddenly heard chanting coming out of the dark. The staff treated us to traditional Maasai chanting, singing, and dancing as they surrounded the fire and presented us with a special anniversary cake. An unforgettable experience!
Sentinel Mara is an eco-camp set up in a forest on the Mara RiverBreakfast overlooking the river at Sentinel Mara
Further reading
This interesting introduction to Kenya’s Maasai Mara will have you contacting Africa Geographic to book your next African safari. For all there is to know about Maasai Mara, read here.
Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp in Mara North Conservancy is designed with photographers in mind – ideal for an epic Kenyan photographic safari. Read more here.
See Ivan Glaser’s safari report-back and gallery, detailing his journey in the Maasai Mara with professional photographer Arnfinn Johansen and Africa Geographic. Check it out here.
About Kathy West
Kathy West is a wildlife conservation photographer, primatologist and educator. Kathy has spent her career finding ways to support conservation and communicate biodiversity’s distinctive beauty and incredible richness worldwide. Concerned about the primate extinction crisis, she founded Photography Inspiring Children in Conservation (PICC), teaching photography and sustainable capacity in conservation-compatible careers to youth in Africa and Central America. PICC empowers people in habitat-critical communities to support local ecosystem conservation and inspires children to become conservation leaders within their communities. The programme provides youths with skills, knowledge, and a passion for conservation through the arts of photography, illustration, and storytelling. Kathy hopes to help children directly impact the survival of a species by building a special emotional connection and knowledge of conservation actions they can take to build a healthy community where both the wildlife and their community can thrive.
In June and July 2024, the PICC projects included school children and conservation partners in Musanze/Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda; students and conservation youth in Buhoma-Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda; and students and conservation youth in Rwenshama, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda.
A pioneering study over five decades and 475 survey sites reveals dramatic declines in Africa’s elephant population densities – 90% for forest elephants and 70% for savannah elephants. Despite widespread losses, localised gains offer hope for their conservation future.
A ground-breaking study has used over half a century of data to track changes in the population density of forest and savannah elephants at more than 400 survey sites across Africa. The study found that the average decline across the sites was 90% for forest elephants and 70% for savannah elephants.
The study’s authors evaluated 53 years’ worth of data gathered during more than 1,300 surveys of both critically endangered forest elephants (Loxodonta cyclotis) and endangered savannah elephants (Loxodonta africana) at hundreds of sites in 37 countries, from Benin to Zimbabwe.
“We’re pretty confident that the decline we’ve measured with the data that we have is pretty representative of what’s going on [across the continent],” says Charles Edwards, an independent statistical consultant and coauthor of the study, which was published in Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences (PNAS).
Edwards says that poaching and the expansion of farming and other human activities into former elephant habitats have driven the decline. “It’s the usual mix of poaching and habitat loss.”
Forest elephant densities averaged a 90% decline across survey sites
Because of the different methods used by different teams of people in various countries over more than five decades, be it aerial surveys to count savannah elephants or ground surveys and transect counts for forest elephants, Edwards and his colleagues used a statistical model to sift through all this variable data and work out changes in population density at each of the 475 different survey sites in Southern, Central, West and East Africa.
According to Edwards, this helped to create “a more complete picture” of what has been happening to elephants across the continent beyond simply counting them to work out their abundance.
“Everyone wants to know how many elephants there are now and how that is different from how many there were 100 years ago,” he says. But calculating elephant abundance alone provides insight into the trends of the largest populations while leaving gaps in our knowledge about areas where there are smaller ones.
Abundance estimates are also subject to bias. For instance, if survey area sizes change from one year to the next, the number of elephants counted can be altered, even if their abundance hasn’t actually changed. This can give a false impression of either growth or decline in populations.
“You get these artefacts [artificial signals] in the data that make it look like a population change in abundance, even when there might not be, but if you look instead at the density of elephants, then you’re more likely to get an understanding of the trend in elephants that is independent of the survey area size.”
The data for forest elephants was gleaned from 150 sites surveyed between 1974–2015; the data for savannah elephants came from 375 sites surveyed from 1964–2016. Despite the grim overall picture of widespread declines these presented, there were some positive findings.
In Southern Africa, for example, 42% of the sites surveyed registered increases in population density (of just under 1% per site per year on average) over the period of the study. Southern Africa hosts the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (TFCA), which covers nearly 520,000 square kilometres and incorporates dozens of parks and game reserves across Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe. The last census in 2022 estimates the number of savannah elephants in this area at nearly 228,000.
Ten percent of sites in East Africa registered increases, including the Serengeti and the Moyowosi-Kigosi Game Reserve in Tanzania, the Amboseli National Park and the Maasai Mara National Reserve in Kenya, and the Jonglei ecosystem in South Sudan.
In West Africa, the study registered increases at 3% of sites where forest elephants live: the Pendjari National Park in Benin and three sites in Burkina Faso that included Arly National Park.
“Our results tell us that if well protected and managed, elephant populations can still increase despite increasing pressures surrounding them and their habitats,” Fiona Maisels, a study coauthor, said in a press statement.
Elephant researcher Timothy O’Connor, from the University of Witwatersrand, who was not involved in the study, praised its “rigorous statistical analysis” and “clear-cut conclusions”.
“The paper is another timely reminder that elephants are not doing well, but the nuance is that their dramatic decline is not universal across Africa,” he says.
“Most Southern African populations are stable or increasing slightly, whereas East African or West African populations, and forest elephants, have declined ultra-alarmingly.”
O’Connor, who recently published research on the impact an 11,000-strong elephant population is having on native forests and woodlands in Zimbabwe’s Gonarezhou National Park, says that while the PNAS study’s continent-wide picture offers clarity on elephant declines, it should not be seen as a management aid.
An elephant in Amboseli National Park, Kenya
“The fact that savannah elephants are – or have been – declining dramatically in West Africa does not influence what is done in Zimbabwe where elephant populations are, overall, thriving,” he says.
“A country is expected to approach the management of elephants in terms of its specific challenges and needs.”
The PNAS study’s authors acknowledge that most of the data they relied on were obtained through surveys conducted in protected areas. This means declines in some regions may have been underestimated by not capturing the loss of unprotected populations.
And although the survey data spans over half a century, that is only equivalent to the single life of a long-lived elephant. This means that no insight into longer-term trends is offered.
“We don’t know what happened [to elephant density] prior to 1960,” says Edwards. “We have a lot of anecdotal information, but it’s different from everywhere – some places it might be going up, prior to 1960, some places it was getting hammered.”
The data analyst says he hopes his team’s methodology can be used to examine other species across vast areas in similarly variable numbers.
“Elephants have been in trouble for a long time,” says Edwards. “I wasn’t necessarily surprised by the result [that shows this], but it was interesting to me to establish a way of looking at it across the continent.”
There is some good news: there are more forest elephants in Gabon than previously believed. Read more about Gabon’s first countrywide elephant population estimate in 30 years here.
A new study from Kibale has laid the groundwork for distinguishing between forest/savannah elephant hybrids and different elephant species. Read more about Kibale’s hybrid elephants here.
How do elephants move across southern Africa through protected areas and beyond? New research explores the value of habitat connectivity. Check it out here.
Does the hunting of elephant bulls with large tusks lead to the decline of Africa’s tuskers? We examine the science here.
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THE Zanzibar to-do list + miombo, elephants & carbon markets
Are humans capable of SUSTAINABLY harvesting a commons or state-owned resource?
This lengthy report on the destruction of the Southern Cape forests in South Africa by European superpowers in premodern history is hardly easy to read, but it is an interesting case study of how rubbish we are as a species at reining in greed and waste when a natural ‘resource’ is there for the taking.
Some of the harvesting strategies described in the report make no sense – but that was then. These days, we have learned our lessons and do things differently. All extraction of hardwood, minerals, free-ranging wildlife and fish (to name a few) is based on scientifically determined quotas, transparency and fair compensation for local people. Right?
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
The lion may be king of the beasts, but one rival reigns supreme when it comes to inspiring fear: humans. Did you know that wildlife fear the human super-predator more than anything else? A study in Greater Kruger revealed that 95% of species ran more from humans than they did from lions. Using speaker systems to broadcast human voices, lion growls, dogs barking, gunshots and bird calls, researchers recorded the reactions of 19 mammals. The findings are striking – animals fled and abandoned waterholes 40% faster when hearing humans, compared to lions. This fear isn’t merely about survival; it triggers cascading ecological effects, influencing everything from animal behaviour to plant life.
This is a double-edged sword. A fear of humans could deter animals from venturing into conflict-prone areas. But, it complicates tourism-dependent conservation efforts: human presence can disrupt ecosystems. How do we ensure our legacy is one of preservation and not devastation?
Planning a trip to Zanzibar? We’ve put together the ultimate Zanzibar to-do list for your safari. Plus, Africa’s miombo woodlands are amazing at carbon sequestration – we explore why we should be conserving them. Check out these stories below.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Dreaming of your bucket-list Botswana or Vic Falls safari? Or how about a true bush & beach classic safari to Tanzania? Check out the epic safaris below, or let our travel team help you plan your dream safari
This iconic safari combines the wildlife riches of Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park in Botswana with the awe-inspiring majesty of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. First, you’ll visit Khwai to get your predator fix, then move on to Chobe to witness massive herds of elephants and other wildlife along the banks of the Chobe River. Last but not least, the grand finale: witnessing the mighty Zambezi River plunging into the misty gorges below at iconic Victoria Falls.
Classic Tanzania: bush & beach safari – 10 days – from US$6,509pps
Discover Tanzania’s popular northern safari circuit, including Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti National Park, and the idyllic serene beaches of Zanzibar. This safari offers you a seamless introduction to the wonders of a Tanzanian bush and island retreat. Immerse yourself in these iconic locations whilst exploring diverse landscapes and rich culture. This classic driving safari takes you to the heart of it all, with the added pleasure of staying in time-honoured luxury camps.
Vanessa and Thomas Kress from the Netherlands recently spent 11 days exploring Malawi with AG. They enjoyed the wildlife and landscapes of Majete, Liwonde and Nkhotakota, and spent time relaxing on the beaches of Lake Malawi at Senga. They loved their safari so much that they have already booked their next AG safari to Rwanda! Here’s what they had to say about their experience:
Best of Malawi in 8 days – “What an incredible trip! We are experienced travellers of Southern African and wanted to see something new. We chose Malawi on the recommendation of AG and it was certainly no disappointment. We visited 3 parks, met interesting people, learned a lot about Malawi and experienced some wonders of nature – such as a boat trip on the Shire River. It was well worth it! Thank you AG for looking after us during the whole trip! We surely will book again.” – Vanessa Kress
WATCH: Across Africa, on the boundaries of nature reserves where protected areas meet human settlements, human-elephant conflict is on the rise. Elephant Shepherd Units pioneered by Elephants Alive are the first line of action in peacefully dissolving human-elephant conflict. Safeguarding wandering elephants and fostering coexistence with communities, the Elephant Shepherds are the connection between animal and human. Mediating interactions with skill, understanding and knowledge, they educate communities living with elephants on a daily basis. Learn more about the Elephant Shepherds. (01:32) Click here to watch
Zanzibar, Tanzania’s enchanting archipelago, is a fascinating destination punctuated by idyllic beaches, vibrant culture, and rich history – the ultimate safari finale. With Zanzibar’s intricate biodiversity, beautiful landscapes, and various museums, historical and natural sites, and multiple adventure activities, planning your itinerary can be overwhelming.
To help you make the most of your visit, here’s the ultimate Zanzibar to-do list, featuring must-see destinations and unforgettable experiences. A visit to Zanzibar is also perfectly paired with a Tanzania mainland safari. Read more about Tanzania’s safari circuits here.
Snorkelling in Zanzibar’s crystal-clear waters
Beach bliss and water adventures in Zanzibar
Zanzibar’s beaches are a significant part of its allure, offering soft white sands and crystal-clear waters perfect for relaxation and adventure. The island’s coastal offerings are irresistible, from water sports to whiling hours away on tranquil shores.
Paddleboarding on Zanzibar’s azure ocean
1. Relax on Nungwi Beach
Nungwi Beach, on the northern tip of Zanzibar, is famous for its sunsets and soft sandy shores. Unwind in the sun, swim in the warm waters, or enjoy beachside dining with fresh seafood. Alternatively, opt for a more adventurous water activity to get your muscles moving
Heading out for a paddleboard session at Nungwi Beach
2. Go scuba diving in the Zanzibar Archipelago
Zanzibar’s coastal underwater world is a diver’s paradise. Various diving sites along Zanzibar’s coral reefs allow divers to explore vibrant coral gardens and spot fascinating marine life, including turtles and colourful fish.
Experience vivid corals and ocean life while snorkelling
3. Go snorkelling at Mnemba Atoll
For those not keen on scuba diving, snorkelling at Mnemba Atoll offers an equally captivating glimpse into Zanzibar’s underwater world. With clear waters teeming with tropical fish and corals, it’s a fantastic experience for snorkellers of all levels.
The view of Mnemba Island while heading out to snorkel its underwater delights
4. Visit Jambiani Beach for kite surfing and sailing
Known for its consistent winds, Jambiani Beach is an ideal spot for kite surfing or sailing. Beginners can take kite surfing lessons, while experienced riders will head straight into enjoying the thrill of riding the waves. Or, opt for sailing on a traditional wooden dhow over the waves for a new perspective.
5. Explore Paje Beach
Soft sands, clear waters, and one of the best beaches for sunbathing and swimming – what more could you want? Paje Beach is one of Zanzibar’s most idyllic beaches, and visitors can also rent a paddleboard or kayak for a leisurely day on the water.
The white sands of Paje Beach
6. Visit untouched Uzi Island
Uzi island is quite untouched and most of the Uzi people are fishermen. The island is dense with mangroves, banana plantations and huge mango trees. You can only reach Uzi Island by boat or at low tide when the only road to the island surfaces.
Cultural experiences and must-visit wildlife spots of Zanzibar
Zanzibar’s rich culture makes it an exceptional destination for enlightenment and the taste buds! Immerse yourself in the local culture with these must-do options
7. Explore Stone Town
Stone Town, a World Heritage Site, is the cultural heart of Zanzibar, featuring narrow, winding, cobbled streets and historical architecture. Spend a day wandering through its bustling bazaars, studying its intricate doorways, visiting historic sites, and sampling local cuisine. Or for a truly unique experience, head out in Stone Town at night to watch as the town changes face and people come out to socialise, enjoy coffee and play board games in the street.
Take a walk through Stone Town’s intricate historical streets
9. Visit the Zanzibar Butterfly Centre
This conservation project focuses on breeding and protecting Zanzibar’s native butterfly species. A stroll through the lush gardens will allow you to witness the beauty of the delicate Lepidoptera up close while learning about their life cycles and habitats.
The Forodhani Gardens are found in a beautiful seaside park, perfect for a light stroll. At sunset, the area transforms into a lively food market where you can sample local delicacies – from Zanzibari pizza to grilled seafood.
10. Learn about (and indulge in) the spice trade
Zanzibar is known as the “Spice Island,” and a spice tour is a mesmerising experience. Explore plantations, learn about the history of spice trading, and indulge in the scents, flavours and colours of local spices like cloves, nutmeg, and vanilla.
Zanzibar offers a world of spices
Unique activities and scenic adventures
From thrilling outdoor adventures to unforgettable views, Zanzibar offers plenty of out-of-the-ordinary activities that showcase the island’s beauty and charm.
11. Go on a sunset dhow cruise
A traditional dhow cruise is an excellent way to relax and enjoy the stunning coastal scenery. With options for private or group cruises, you can enjoy the sunset while sipping drinks on the water.
To see Zanzibar’s unique side, visit its colourful seaweed farms in Paje. Here, you can watch as local women harvest seaweed. Seaweed is an essential part of the island’s local economy and is a sustainable industry supporting many families. While in Paje, you can also visit Maalum Cave and swim in the natural sweet water swimming pool here – a refreshing nature experience.
13. Take a day trip to Pemba Island
Pemba Island offers a quieter, traditional Zanzibari experience away from the crowds. Be inspired by Pemba’s lush landscapes, beautiful coral reefs, and cultural sites like the Pujini ruins. You can also visit some of the smaller islands around Pemba, such as Njao Island. Pemba is perfect for travellers seeking adventure with a dash of serenity.
Njao Island, off the coast of Pemba Island
14. Visit Prison Island
A short boat ride from Stone Town, Prison Island offers a glimpse into Zanzibar’s history and the opportunity to see giant tortoises. Explore the old prison ruins, snorkel in the clear waters, and relax on the beach.
A giant tortoise of Prison Island
15. Explore the Jozani Forest Reserve
Home to red colobus monkeys, Jozani Forest is a must-visit for wildlife lovers. Guided walks through the forest allow you to learn about the flora and fauna of the island while enjoying the tranquillity of nature.
Red colobus monkeys in Jozani Forest
16. Do a mangrove tour
To witness a different side of Zanzibar, head to the mangroves around Muugoni or Michamvi. At Muugoni, you can go out on the water on a dug-out mango canoe to see the mangroves and their intricate ecosystems with a guide. Or at Michamvi, opt for exploring the mangroves on a stand-up paddle tour. An unexpected experience, different to the palm-fringed white beaches of Zanzibar.
Culinary delights and local markets
Zanzibar’s cuisine is a blend of African, Arab, Indian, and European influences, offering a delightful culinary experience. Make sure to set some time aside to head to Zanzibar’s markets to experience the best in street food, or even opt for fine dining options. The island has something to satisfy every palate.
17.Attend a traditional Swahili dinner
Experience local culture by attending a traditional Swahili dinner. Expect live music, storytelling, and authentic dishes that reflect the island’s rich culinary heritage. A real feast for the senses!
18. Savour local cuisine at Forodhani Market
Forodhani Market comes alive with local food stalls in the evenings, serving up delicious Zanzibari dishes. Sample freshly grilled seafood, spicy biryanis, and sweet sugar cane juice while enjoying the vibrant atmosphere.
Sample sumptuous street food at the Forodhani Market
19. Visit the local markets
Exploring the bustling local markets is a great way to experience the island’s vibrant culture. Here, you can shop for handmade crafts, spices, and fresh produce while mingling with friendly locals.
Fresh produce in Zanzibar’s markets
20. Enjoy a seafood feast
No trip to Zanzibar will be complete without a fresh seafood feast! The island is renowned for its seafood, and enjoying a meal at a beachside restaurant or at a beach barbeque is a must. Dine out while listening to the soothing sound of the waves.
Enjoy a delicious seafood meal at one of Zanzibar’s many restaurants
21. Taste the unique flavours of Zanzibari coffee
Don’t miss Zanzibar’s famous coffee, often brewed with spices for an extra kick. Visit local coffee shops or plantations to enjoy this unique blend and learn about its cultural significance.
22. Attend a local food festival
If your visit coincides with a food festival, make sure you attend! You’ll have your choice of Zanzibari dishes and drinks, offering a fantastic opportunity to taste the island’s culinary delights.
Seafood fresh from the grill
Final thoughts
Zanzibar offers a tapestry of experiences, whether you’re an adventure seeker, wildlife enthusiast, culture buff or food lover. With this ultimate to-do list, you’ll be well-equipped to explore the island’s many treasures. Whether you spend your time lounging on pristine beaches, diving into the vibrant underwater world, or immersing yourself in the local culture, Zanzibar is sure to leave a lasting impression.
Africa’s vast miombo woodlands not only house over half of the world’s elephant population but also play a critical role in carbon storage. As carbon markets grow, so does the potential to fund conservation efforts that benefit both climate and wildlife. This intersection of finance, ecology, and preservation reveals a promising pathway for protecting vital habitats and curbing climate change.
What do elephants and carbon markets have in common? The pachyderms and carbon markets may seem like an unlikely pair, but they share a surprising connection: their enthusiasm for Africa’s majestic miombo woodlands. For carbon markets, bigger trees (trees with greater aboveground biomass) represent bigger carbon reserves, which means more carbon credits. Why is this important to elephants? Because carbon credits could finance the conservation and reforestation of the miombo woodlands of southern Africa, which are home to over 50% of the world’s elephant population. (Incidentally, did you know that elephant dung contributes to soil carbon?)
Miombo woodlands are a vast region of tropical grasslands, savannahs and shrublands. Covering much of central and southern Africa, the Miombo woodlands are also home to rhinos, giraffes and other diverse wildlife, and are a reservoir of biodiversity. They are also a source of firewood – and in many rural areas, the only source of available energy. Sadly, the woodlands have been reduced by nearly 30% since 1980 due to factors like charcoal harvesting and conversion to agriculture.
Elephants in Liwonde National Park, Malawi, with miombo woodland on the horizon
What’s the big deal with miombo woodlands and carbon?
Some say carbon credits are the biggest craze since sliced bread. The world is on a mission to reduce anthropogenic emissions of greenhouse gases, which drive climate change. Industries with high carbon emissions are now in the spotlight, and there is increasing regulatory pressure on these companies to reduce their carbon footprint. One of the ways companies are addressing this challenge is by using carbon credits to offset their carbon emissions. In the compliance carbon market, governments set emissions limits on certain industries and carbon credits work like permission slips for emissions. When a company buys a carbon credit from the government, it gains permission to emit up to a specific set amount of CO₂e (the equivalent of one ton of carbon emissions) that year. The compliance market generally requires industries to reduce their emissions through technological processes. If they are unable to do so, they can buy credits from other companies that have done so, or from purveyors of activities that produce carbon credits, e.g. small-scale agro-forestry.
The voluntary carbon market works differently. In a nutshell, this market is supported by individuals and companies that fall outside of the compliance market and allows them to purchase offsets as part of their commitment to limit climate change impacts. Reforestation, forest conservation, rangeland restoration, renewable energy, wetland rewetting and methane flaring are just many of the mitigation activities that can be registered for carbon credits in the voluntary market. These can then be purchased by companies who want to offset their emissions. Carbon credits are a means of financing reforestation and protecting forests.
Miombo woodlands are of interest to carbon markets because forests provide one of nature’s ways of storing carbon. Forests absorb large amounts of carbon dioxide (CO₂) from the atmosphere during photosynthesis. They store the carbon in trees and soils; therefore, protecting these forests is equivalent to protecting a carbon sink. Reforesting means more trees and more carbon stored. However, one needs to know how much carbon the miombo woodlands (typically Brachystegia, Julbernardia and Isoberlinia species) store.
Previously, scientists estimated forest biomass using aerial or satellite observations to measure the extent of the forest, measuring individual tree stem diameter and species and extrapolating across the forest area. However, these approaches are indirect and thus come with a certain degree of uncertainty, so a group of scientists decided to use a new way to measure the size and structure of forests – by using LiDAR (Light detection and ranging) technology. With LiDAR, a high-powered laser shoots precise pulses at a target, and measures the pulse that bounces back to collect data about the target in three dimensions, in conjunction with GPS (Global Positioning System) data and INS (Inertial Navigation System) data. This generates a detailed, comprehensive 3D image of the target. The scientists used this method, which involved shooting billions of laser pulses from the ground and air (using drones and helicopters) at the forest to produce a 3D image of the forest. They then used this detailed image to determine the actual volume of wood within a 50,000ha section of miombo forest in Mozambique’s Gilé National Park.
As they knew from previous research on how much wood weighs per cubic metre and how much of that is carbon, they could easily extrapolate the amount of carbon. They found that these forests may store nearly twice as much carbon in tree trunks and branches (also known as “aboveground biomass”) than previously thought. The 50,000 hectares of forest may store 1.71 million tonnes of carbon in its tree trunks and branches, but 50% of the aboveground biomass, and therefore carbon, was actually stored in the largest 11% of the trees.
This research is essential as it highlights the significance of the miombo woodlands as a potential resource in the climate change mitigation pathway, and their ability to safeguard elephant habitat and harness a crucial carbon sink that can contribute to global emissions reduction.
However, as always, there is no silver bullet. Carbon credits have met with fierce resistance in some cases, partly due to the difficulty in standardising measurements and the commodification of nature, amongst other concerns. It is a complicated process and often takes years to design a carbon project – involving ongoing engagement and contractual agreements to protect or restore specific areas. However, through carbon credits, there is an opportunity to channel financial support into preserving vital woodlands. As our understanding and implementation of carbon markets advance, such initiatives are a testament to how finance and conservation can work hand-in-hand.
Pula! The early rains have arrived in my beloved but parched Lowveld, and my soul is soaring. Although I am currently taking time out in the gorgeous Garden Route (also in South Africa), regular updates from colleagues and friends allow me to enjoy the rains vicariously
Speaking of awesomeness, this has been a year of enormous growth for our safari business, and our plan to be the coolest safari company in the world is taking shape. Why the growth ambitions? Simply put, the more safaris we sell, the more we can invest in conservation media and the more donations we generate. Did you know that we donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level? AND YET, our most significant contribution to conservation is our conservation media – to educate the world about ground-level reality – from decoding science to celebrating this place’s extraordinary biodiversity, exposing non-sustainable behaviour by members of the wildlife industries and more. Along the way, we have collected a few haters (nothing like shining that spotlight into dark corners to generate angst), but, more importantly, we are gathering a community of passionate people who want the best for Africa.
Thanks for walking this inspirational journey with us, and stand by for more of everything that helps us celebrate Africa and do good!
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Hunting for hidden treasures? Forget buried chests – Cape Town’s real gems are blooming right under our noses. After nearly a century of assumed extinction, the elusive salt pan daisy (Cotula myriophylloides) has reappeared in a flooded wetland in the Transnet Railway Reserve. This flower was last seen on the Cape Flats in 1926. Conservationists have been on the lookout ever since, hoping for a miracle return.
This rediscovery is a nod to Cape Town’s rich, lost ecological past. Flowers like the daisy were once very common. But habitat loss and pollution led to its demise. Wetlands, often overlooked, are critical. They filter water, reduce flood risk, support biodiversity, and make the city a greener place. In a city juggling urban sprawl with ecological needs, the salt pan daisy’s resurgence is a reminder that nature’s resilience is tenacious. Cape Town’s wetlands might hold more surprises yet.
This week, we focus on the lion-hunting martial eagles of the Mara. We also follow Kingsley Holgate’s journey to Chinko and report on a shocking incident involving a guide’s harassment of an elephant calf in Savute. Check out these stories below.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Discover the Big 5, cheetahs and wild dogs of Majete Wildlife Reserve. Then, unwind on Lake Malawi’s tranquil white sand beaches and enjoy the water activities on offer. Seamlessly transition between these stunning locations for the perfect combo safari.
Big 5 + chimps + gorillas in Rwanda – 10 days – from US$6,570pps
This safari flattens three bucket-list items in one trip – in one country! From searching for the Big 5 in Akagera NP to the forests of Nyungwe NP for chimpanzees, and Volcanoes NP for mountain gorillas. You’ll also see rare golden monkeys, the Kigali Genocide Memorial and more.
How to help young children and their families understand the complexities of human-wildlife conflict in Africa? The Southern African Conservation Trust (SACT) has designed an educational comic to inform learners and their parents about human-wildlife conflict between subsistence farmers and the lions that target their livestock. This comic also demonstrates a possible solution for protecting wildlife: the use of bomas to protect livestock at night. The comic includes easy instructions on how to build bomas and protect cattle.
SACT need your support to get 10,000 of these comics into South African schools – both bordering the Kruger National Park, and around other provincial and national reserves.
An incident of alleged elephant harassment – involving a guide and an emaciated elephant calf in Botswana’s Savute – has sparked calls for accountability.
An incident involving a safari guide interacting with a young, distressed elephant calf in Savute, Chobe National Park, has raised ethical concerns about a local safari operator, sparking calls from the public for accountability.
According to tour operator Haley Dahl, who arrived on the scene while on a game drive, the guide in question had climbed out of his vehicle and was taunting the elephant calf. Dahl reported that the guide was “jumping and playing” in front of the calf, antagonising the young animal to encourage it to mock charge him. The juvenile elephant, reportedly starving and without its mother, was visibly distressed as the guide appeared to treat the interaction as entertainment for his guests.
The guide was also photographed gesturing next to the elephant calf, alongside a game-drive vehicle marked “Action Adventure Safaris”.
The incident was photographed by observers
The incident took place a week ago – in the height of a lengthy drought that has left many animals starving.
Dahl says she and her party were highly disturbed by the encounter.
“We arrived at a sighting with this other vehicle to see the guide/owner outside of his vehicle jumping/playing around in front of the baby elephant, antagonising him to try mock charge… and he thought this was a game,” Dahl wrote in a Facebook post.
Dahl told Africa Geographic that, upon witnessing the incident, she shouted at the guide to stop and he allegedly responded, “You should have been here; we have been playing with this baby for 10 minutes already.”
“Our group of eight who witnessed this has been deeply traumatised,” Dahl added.
The elephant calf was visibly emaciated and weakThe “Action Adventure Safaris” logo visible on the vehicle
“This is too catastrophic a mistake to make: this is animal abuse. It is not just unethical behaviour – it’s a dying elephant that he was playing with, frightening, mock charging, trying to get it to run towards him. This was upsetting for all of us watching,” Dahl told Africa Geographic.
Posts on the incident are now gaining traction on social media, with many calling for an investigation.
Before going live with this article, Africa Geographic tried contacting Action Adventure Safaris via email, voice call, and WhatsApp to allow the operator to explain the incident. We received various expletive-filled messages alleging that the company has handed various Facebook posts over to the lawyers, saying [original text quoted as received]:
“the issue is published on So many FB pages nd that was not supposed to be like that buddy……on this side,I have taken this issue to the company lawyer nd I have nothing to say to you till we meet here in Botswana at the cout in relation to abusive words that was used by the first person to launch it on FB.[sic] How can I set the record straight when more than 7 people from different companies nd countries have all published it how…[sic]”
While no explanation of the incident was provided, a representative of the company claimed the guide did not “play” with the elephant, saying:
“Take your time nd think of it yourself alone,how does one play with an elephant?….explain[sic]. To be on foot with an elephant does it mean playing nd how does one play with an elephant?…[sic] So many people have been seen on foot with wildlife even going beyond to feed them or even touching the animal….its self……so go nd tell them to find something to bring to your office nd report off about….[sic]”
Wildlife tourism remains a crucial aspect of Botswana’s economy, particularly in ecologically sensitive areas like Savute. The reputation of the tourism sector depends on responsible practices that prioritise animal welfare and align with conservation goals.
This incident is a stark reminder of the importance of ethical wildlife interaction and the role of responsible guiding in safeguarding Botswana’s precious wildlife heritage.
The martial eagle is Africa’s largest bird of prey. They can take down animals nearly twice their weight. A new study reveals how these formidable predators hunt and kill lion cubs in the greater Mara region of southwestern Kenya.
Martial eagles are known to have a highly varied diet, hunting anything from tiny winged termite alates erupting from holes in the ground after a thunderstorm to antelopes weighing 10kg (22lbs) or more.
In a new study, researchers have gathered together all the records made since 2008 of what appears to be the opportunistic hunting of lion cubs weighing up to 6kg (13lbs) by martial eagles in the greater Mara region of southwestern Kenya.
Female martial eagles are bigger than the males, and they are likely the ones hunting lion cubs simply because they’re able to fly off to safety with heavier prey, says PhD candidate and corresponding author of the study, Richard Stratton Hatfield. Also, it’s the female martial eagles who prefer to eat mammals, he says.
An adult martial eagle
“Males tend to really like [hunting] birds, and so I just think a lion cub is really more on the menu for a female.”
It is hard to tell male and female martial eagles apart from photographs, says Hatfield, but based on their body and talon size, all of the eagles photographed and recorded hunting lion cubs appear to be females.
In 2016, Hatfield began studying these apex predators – these distinctively long-winged soaring eagles with piercing yellow eyes and white breasts flecked with dark spots – for his Master’s thesis. He discovered the birds captured around 50 different species of prey. But it was Simon Thomsett, a leading authority on East African birds of prey, who would also become Hatfield’s co-author on the study, who first told him about a pair of martial eagles hunting lion cubs at the Musiara Marsh, within the Maasai Mara National Reserve.
A recently fledged juvenile martial eagle takes off with a lion cub, estimated at around three weeks old, on 15 March 2019 in Mara North Conservancy, Kenya. This juvenile martial eagle fledged from a known nest. The actual kill was not observed, but based on the fledgling’s behaviour, the researchers suspect the female parent killed the cub and gave it to this youngster. Photo courtesy of Jes Lefcourt.
“It’s well known in guiding lore in the Mara that martials can take lion cubs,” Hatfield says. In all, his study documents a total of nine lion cubs killed by martial eagles between August 2008 and June 2023.
In one notable record, field guide and camp manager Patrick Reynolds and his team documented a martial eagle, probably the same individual, hunting all three cubs from a pride near the Musiara Marsh over several weeks in December 2012.
In another incident, Mike Saitoti from Fairmont Safari Club observed and photographed a young martial eagle killing a lion cub in the Lemek Conservancy, in the north of the reserve. The cub was too heavy for the young eagle to carry, so it dragged it to a nearby termite mound to feed in peace.
But lion cubs aren’t always easy prey. The study cites a video by Mark Mallone in the Mara North Conservancy in 2016 that captured the moment a martial eagle attempted to take a six-week-old lion cub. The video depicts how the eagle was thwarted by a protective lioness that leapt into the air to try to swat the eagle.
“They’re clever; they’re not going to kill things that are unnecessarily dangerous,” he says. “It’s all about managing risk and reward, and also what they can fly with. It almost becomes a liability if they can’t fly with [the prey].”
The greater Mara region is rich in wildlife, including lions, and consequently closely monitored by safari guides and their clients. However, the martial eagle’s range extends across large parts of East and Southern Africa, meaning similar encounters could be happening elsewhere but have yet to be recorded.
“These predation events are probably rare but widespread and underreported in literature,” Hatfield and his co-authors state. They also list several isolated records in the past of martial eagles killing other mammalian carnivores and their young, including a serval in Uganda’s Queen Elizabeth National Park, a cheetah cub in Kenya’s Amboseli National Park, and an African wild dog pup in South Africa’s Klaserie Private Nature Reserve.
Hatfield, who also works on conservation programmes in southern Kenya with the Kenya Bird of Prey Trust, says he hopes his research on lion-cub hunting will present martial eagles in a new light – as “a predator of consequence” – something that is too often overlooked in studies of predator-prey relationships in African savannah systems.
“Raptors in general, and definitely martial eagles, are just completely excluded from the equation,” he says. “The top of a trophic [food] pyramid is much more complicated than we realise, and it’s not as simple as ‘lions are the king of the jungle’.”
The researcher says that recognition that martial eagles occupy a place alongside lions, leopards, and hyenas at the top table would help boost the eagles’ conservation value. The birds, along with other large African raptors, need all the conservation help they can get.
A separate study published earlier this year analysed declines in dozens of birds of prey across Africa over the past 20–40 years. It found that the number of martial eagles was down by 90%.
For Kenyan martial eagles, this is driven in large part by the shrinking of suitable habitat needed to sustain breeding pairs and their offspring, which are often electrocuted on power cables when they disperse from the safety of their parents’ territory. “Just like lions, they probably don’t have a future outside of our large protected areas,” says Hatfield.
Further reading
African eagles soar through the skies, sharp-eyed and fierce, bringing unexpected death from above to their prey. Read more about the avian apex predators of Africa here.
“Forget it! It’s simply not possible in a regular 4×4 vehicle, despite your Defenders being capable – you’ll destroy them trying to do it,” says Erik Mararv, African Parks’ regional operations manager for Central Africa.
Erik knows what he’s talking about; he was born in the Central African Republic (CAR) and has spent a large chunk of his adventurous life there. He’s also one of the founders of the Chinko Project – the final African Parks-managed protected area left to complete on this Afrika Odyssey Expedition.
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
We’re homeless
Erik goes on to warn us that the last section of the 900km road from Bangui (CAR’s capital) to Chinko is known as The Hole. “The ‘middle mannetjie‘ is so high and the banks so steep on either side that even tough, 6×6 high-clearance trucks are tow-piped together in a sort of push-me-pull-you truck train to get through,” he says. “Some of the mud holes are deeper than the trucks themselves. It’s common for them to get stuck, and the drivers spend days – sometimes weeks – digging, winching and cutting detours through the surrounding equatorial forest.”
Erik continues, “Rebel groups have to be negotiated with for a rite-of-passage and the military must join the convoy for a section. If a truck gets bogged down, it’s difficult to get around because you’ll have to cut your own track through the jungle and that could invite unwelcome attention from the rebels. The only way we can get lighter vehicles to Chinko is to put them in a 20-foot container, weld the doors shut, load them onto a flat-bed lorry and hope for the best. The big rains are only a few weeks away, and our team is busy loading the last convoy for this season. Everything has to be trucked to Chinko in 14-tonne loads: drums of aviation fuel, diesel, essential food supplies, and equipment – and we’re in a race against time right now. Your only way to get to Chinko, I’m afraid, is to fly.”
Chinko is surely the most remote of all 22 African Parks-managed protected areas on this vast continent. Seeing our glum looks, Erik lets out a laugh. “Don’t worry, you’re saving the best till last. We’ll pick you up in Bangui and fly you to Kojo Basecamp.”
And so, with Benin’s Pendjari and Park W now behind us, we decide to drive the expedition Defenders across Togo to Ghana to be shipped back to South Africa and fly from Accra to Bangui. But at the Togo border, the s*** hits the fan as a hostile immigration lady rudely points to a notice in French sellotaped to the wall. The land border has, without warning, been closed to foreigners. “Go back,” she says curtly, pointing in Benin’s direction. We try to plead our case but she’s implacable.
Now what!? With the security situation being what it is in the northern areas bordering Burkina Faso, we can’t drive around. It is even more frustrating that tiny Togo is less than 100km wide and only takes a few hours to reach Ghana.
Fortunately, in Africa, you can always ‘make a plan’. The helpful Land Rover agents in Accra agree to dispatch two drivers who, with their ECOWAS (Economic Community of West African States) papers, will be allowed to cross Togo and meet us where we’ve holed up at a friendly, rustic guest house on the beach near the Benin/Togo border, and drive our Defenders to Ghana.
It’s a sad moment to see Moyo (‘heart’ in Swahili) and Isibindi (‘courage’ in Zulu) disappearing down the sandy track. Like hermit crabs, they’ve been our homes for over a year, travelling more than 60,000km on a zigzag, 22-country journey across Africa, and we’ve become very fond of them. What champions! They’ve carried tonnes of kit and humanitarian supplies – malaria nets, Rite to Sight-reading glasses and thousands of Wildlife Art templates for the expedition’s community programmes at each African Parks-managed protected area – and they haven’t missed a beat.
From a vibrant send-off at Lesedi Cultural Village near Joburg last year, across the towering red-sand expanses of Angola’s Iona, and through Liuwa Plain, Kafue and Bangweulu Wetlands in Zambia; along roads less travelled to explore AP’s five resurging national parks in Zimbabwe, Malawi and Mozambique; traversing Tanzania to reach beautiful Akagera and the highest source of the Nile in the Nyungwe forests of Rwanda; racing a storm during a ferry crossing of Uganda’s Lake Albert; nearly succumbing to record floods at Garamba in the DRC; and surviving unbelievably broken roads to reach the largest mammal migration in the world in South Sudan’s Bandingilo and Boma. Then, in this final chapter, tackling the massive distance from Namibia to Zakouma, Siniaka Minia and Ennedi in the Chad route, making short work of thick, sticky mud in the Congo-Brazzaville rainforests to reach Odzala-Kokoua, and onto the powdery sands of the Sahara Desert near the Libyan border. Living up to their nicknames, they’ve taken us through the badlands of Cameroon, a risky crossing of Nigeria and into the jihadist ‘red zone’ of northern Benin. Sand tracks, mud tracks, goat tracks, no tracks, river crossings and months of unrelenting heat and dust… they’ve conquered everything on this conservation, community and culture-themed journey that’s uncovered so many stories of hope for Africa’s wildlife and neighbouring communities. Already, we feel homeless.
Onward to Chinko
This isn’t our first visit to Bangui, the capital of the Central African Republic, which lies on the northern bank of the 1,000-kilometre Ubangi River that flows into the mighty Congo River. Years ago, we arrived here in an old-style Defender as part of a journey through Burkina Faso, Niger, Chad, CAR, and Equatorial Guinea called the All-Afrika Expedition, so named as they were the five remaining African countries that we hadn’t yet explored on our 30-year mission to adventure to all 54 countries on the continent.
Now we’re back again and fired up to reach the final destination of this Afrika Odyssey Expedition – the wildlife refuge of Chinko in the far eastern regions of CAR.
A warm greeting from the Chinko team
Chinko is in a remote and volatile area that’s so isolated it once served as a secret base for Joseph Kony’s notorious rebel group, the Lord’s Resistance Army.
We overnight at African Parks’ guest house below the hill on which still stands a huge sign declaring ‘Bangui – La Coquette’ (Bangui – the beautiful lady). Approximately the size of France, the CAR was once a playground for the French elite, who came to hunt elephants and bongo antelopes. However, the country has been unstable since its independence in 1960, and whilst it is rich in diamonds, gold, and uranium, it remains one of the world’s poorest nations. When we were last here, it was a breeding ground for mounting opposition and rebel activities against then-president Francois Bozize who was eventually overthrown. That story is brilliantly told in the searingly honest book ‘Battle for Bangui’, which exposes the reckless folly and greed of the South African government, which, in 2013, deployed a tiny force of 200 crack South African troops into the CAR conflict. Badly outnumbered, they fought heroically to hold off an overwhelming force of 7,000 rebels. 15 South African soldiers died, and many more were wounded before they were forced to negotiate a ceasefire at their overrun base. It remains a notorious scandal to this day.
Sadly, the CAR civil war was ongoing, involving successive governments and rebel leaders from the Séléka coalition and Anti-Balaka militias, with thousands killed and over a million people displaced by the violence. Hopefully, those dark days are passing; with a new president in place, Bangui’s streets are alive with pedestrians, motorbike taxis, shops and market stalls. Some street vendors are even selling second-hand, camouflage bullet-proof vests.
But friendly Tunisian-born Zakaria, who handles African Parks’ difficult logistics and is driving us through Bangui, warns us not to take photos. “Don’t even point at anything or the Russian Wagner mercenaries – now called the Africa Corps – will be onto you like a shot,” he says. “Then there’s the heavily armed government troops and the Blue Berets – the UN – which includes 2,000 well-trained Rwandan soldiers and police officers as part of the peace-keeping force.”
“Lots going on here,” Zakaria continues. “I was 10 years with Médecins Sans Frontiers working as a logistics guy in places like Bangladesh, Sudan, Somalia and Afghanistan. I ended up here in Bangui, which was pretty rough at the time. That’s how I encountered African Parks and the incredible work they’re doing at Chinko. So, I made a choice: I’d dedicated a decade to humanitarian work, so I decided to give the next 10 years to conservation. Already, it’s proving an excellent choice.”
Our excitement mounts – just one more park to go – as we’re bundled into AP’s Cessna, piloted by outgoing South African Stephan Fouche. “The flight is about two-and-a-half hours; I’ll let you know when we cross into Chinko,” he says through the headphones with a grin.
The outskirts of Bangui – a sprawling cluster of tin roofs, red dirt roads and the sweep of the Ubangi River – are soon behind us. Once over Chinko, the endless views of this untamed sanctuary that was once a gigantic hunting concession take our breath away. To think that this massive stretch still exists in a country that has been so torn apart by civil war is surely one of the greatest stories of hope for conservation in our time. It’s a huge credit to African Parks and forward-thinking members of CAR’s government.
Chinko: Phoenix rising
“That’s Chinko’s base camp below us,” comes Stephan’s voice. “It’s called Kojo, after the river nearby. As you can see, it’s in the middle of nowhere!” Tiffany Gobbert is there to meet us, and we’re amazed at how organised this remote park HQ is: aircraft hangers, a long line of neat accommodation units, a mess area and kitchen, workshops, fuel tanks and substantial storage sheds, all linked by a spider’s web of well-maintained gravel paths.
Also on hand is CAR-born park manager Jean Baptiste Mamang-Kanga. With 25 years of tough experience in conservation and through Tiffany’s French-to-English translations, we quickly sense his passion and dedication – not only for protecting this unique ecosystem but also for improving the lives of people around Chinko. Spanning a colossal 55,700 km2, it is the most remote and uninhabited wilderness area left in tropical Africa and has a story of revival like no other.
Kingsley, with some of Chinko’s team members
For nearly 50 years, this vast landscape, flanked by the DRC in the south, Sudan in the north and South Sudan in the east, endured the onslaught of lawless exploitation by war rebels, ivory poachers and masses of armed Sudanese cattle herders, who burned vast areas for grazing. 95% of the wildlife was wiped out.
As we bump along a muddy track to reach the Kojo River for the 22nd and final collection of symbolic water in the Afrika Odyssey Expedition’s calabash – Defassa waterbuck scattering, buffalo glowering from thick undergrowth and swatting persistent tsetse flies – Jean Baptiste tells us that since African Parks’ involvement began ten years ago, the wildlife has begun to return. Holding the battered calabash aloft like an Olympic torch, he proclaims in French, echoing Erik’s words, “You’ve saved the best till last!”
Park manager Jean Baptiste Mamang-Kanga and expedition member Graeme Madsen collect water from the Kojo River for the expedition calabashPark manager Jean Baptiste signs the expedition scroll
Chinko is now one of the only protected areas in equatorial Africa where both forest and savannah elephants co-exist. It’s become a stronghold for around 1,500 giant Lord Derby eland and 14 primate species, including 1,300 eastern chimpanzees.
Recent surveys suggest it could be home to the world’s largest population of bongo antelope. The northern lion population, almost eradicated, has increased to a few hundred. Other carnivores such as hyena, leopard, serval, wild dog and the elusive golden cat are on the rise too.
Chinko’s northern lion population has increasedWild dogs are also present in the reserveRecent surveys suggest Chinko may be home to the world’s largest bongo population
The Chinko River is the only uninhabited tropical river system in the world – not a sign of human habitation for hundreds of kilometres – and is home to a rich diversity of fish species, including the predatory Goliath tigerfish that’s found only in the Congo River basin, which can grow to 1.5m in size and a hefty 50kgs.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? You can view and book accommodation to various African Parks destinations by clicking here.
But Chinko still has its challenges. With the current civil war in Sudan, thousands of refugees are pouring over the border from the nearby Darfur province and hundreds-strong cattle herds still pose an ever-present risk to conservation efforts.
The Chinko RiverHerders tend their cattle around Ali Plains. The herds are ever-present, and “Tango Teams” engage with herders to educate them on the sensitivity of biodiversity within the park and guide them towards designated corridors for herding.
We’re inspired by the peaceful ‘Words, not Weapons’ approach that Chinko has adopted to engage with the nomadic herders. Dedicated Tango Teams (easily identifiable in bright yellow hats and non-camo gear) track and visit the nomad camps, explain the park’s boundaries and guide cattle herders to designated corridors that avoid sensitive wildlife areas. One night, after a simple meal at Jean Baptiste’s house, we watch a new Chinko documentary that showcases their work.
A Tango Team member engages with a herder
Up at sunrise the next morning to fly like a bird with Erik in his old microlight, following the meandering Chinko River as tree branches flash past in the near-touching distance, is a mind-blowing, never-to-be-forgotten experience. The rising mist in the undulating valleys and panoramic views of the tall, dense Congolian rainforest and wooded savannahs that make up the vast expanse of Chinko are indescribably magnificent.
Following the meandering Chinko River from above
On one of the last pages of the expedition’s Scroll for Conservation, that is now bursting with thousands of supportive messages from across Africa, Chinko’s resident biologist, Thierry Aebischer, writes:
‘Chinko is one of the most forbidding and forgotten places on the planet. After centuries of neglect, the CAR government, African Parks and many partners, including adjacent communities, have finally been able to start managing this Crown Jewel of diverse biodiversity on a large scale, ensuring that local people really can benefit from their natural resources. Chinko’s history is dark, the challenges are real, but the potential for nature and people is huge. It’s a privilege to work here and see a Phoenix reemerging from the ashes.’
Maybe we have saved the best till last.
Roan antelope on the water’s edge
Mission accomplished?
For this Afrika Odyssey expedition, reaching Chinko in the CAR is a hard-won ‘Mission Accomplished’ milestone. The dots on the map of all 22 African Parks-managed areas with over 20 million hectares under protection are finally ticked off. This epic year+-long journey into the beating heart of Africa’s most iconic wildlife regions to uncover stories of hope is done and dusted.
Or so we thought. African Parks has been busy in the months since we set out; there’s a new, extraordinary project we must visit before the final wrap-up can take place.
Further reading
Last seen over 20 years ago, the Pousargues’s mongoose was recently rediscovered in the Chinko Project Area. Read more about the discovery.
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Unbreakable baobabs + malaria-free Marakele + a Hwange conservation safari
Forget Facebook drama – if you’re looking for a social network done right, look no further than vulturine guineafowls. While we know that complex societies exist amongst mammals, finding similar systems within bird communities was previously unheard of. Until recent years that is, when scientists studying these blue-plumed birds in Kenya noticed complex relationships that rival the organised get-togethers of primates. Tracking over 400 guineafowls, scientists found they divide into stable “friend groups” that occasionally merge into mega-flocks, only to split back into their original squads as seamlessly as if choreographed.
And here’s the kicker: despite their small brains, vulturine guineafowls manage all this without the chaos typical of many human gatherings. They know exactly who belongs in their group and stick together, relying on their bonds for survival. This behaviour challenges everything we thought we knew about animal intelligence and friendship. Turns out, maybe we can learn a thing or two about community from these feathered socialites – like the value of sticking with friends who’ve got your back when danger is lurking and peacefully coexisting sans squabble even when things get tough.
We have some positive news on baobabs – it turns out they are more resilient than we thought! Plus, we explore an extraordinary malaria-free Big-5 reserve in South Africa’s Waterberg: Marakele National Park. Check out our stories below.
Taryn van Jaarsveld – Editor
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
We have two thrilling safaris lined up – whether it’s a luxury adventure you’re after, or a safari that will take you to the heart of the conservation action. Browse our safaris below and let’s start planning your dream trip.
Travel with purpose on this unique conservation safari in Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe. Enjoy game drives, bush walks, and community visits while supporting local wildlife. You’ll delve right into the heart of rhino conservation efforts and head out into the field to see how conservation operations play out on the ground. Ride the charming ‘Elephant Express’ railcar and stay in three special safari camps, including one in the remote heart of Hwange and a community-owned lodge. The revenue from this safari contributes directly to wildlife conservation and the communities that live on Hwange’s borders.
Cape Town & Kruger – beaches to Big 5 – 8 days – from ZAR39,660pps
Blend sophisticated, vibey Cape Town and the Cape Winelands with exceptional Greater Kruger Big-5 game viewing in this classic bucket-list safari. This safari will romance you with the Mother City’s abundance of hip restaurants, sandy white beaches, outdoor activities, historic wine estates and iconic landmarks before sweeping you off your feet with wall-to-wall wildlife action in a private game reserve within the Greater Kruger area – just over 2 hours away by air. We recommend 8 days, but will adapt the safari to suit your needs. Budget, mid-range and luxury options are all on offer.
Our journey up this steep mountain in the heart of Marakale National Park meanders skyward, the landscape becoming increasingly beautiful. Woodlands and wetlands make way for fynbos-dotted vegetation, the ecology evolving as the altitude climbs. Only briefly does it cross my mind – what if we meet an oncoming vehicle on this narrow mountain pass where passing seems impossible? I quickly put that thought out of my mind…
Nearing the top of the mountain towards Lenong viewpoint, even the climate is different. We meet a pair of klipspringer antelope, frozen on rocks, hoping we cannot see them. A Gurney’s sugarbird flashes past and off into the distance. The climate at the top of the mountain is extreme compared to the bushveld below.
A striking view en route to Lenong viewpoint
We arrive at the lookout point after a short drive along the summit. We eagerly leave the vehicle. A woman sits on a nearby bench gazing at the distant horizons of the Waterberg, with a truly spectacular panorama stretching into the distance. High above us, a few Cape vultures make a turn. No visit to Marakele National Park would be complete without gawking at this almost unreal view at least once.
Of transition zones and wordsmiths
This beautiful protected area is the nearest South African national park to Johannesburg and Pretoria, 12km outside the small town of Thabazimbi in the Limpopo Province. This malaria-free park offers a moderate and pleasant climate, ensuring an enjoyable stay, with summer rainfall keeping the worst heat at bay. Nestled in the Waterberg mountains, the park also forms a vital part of the UNESCO-designated Waterberg Biosphere Reserve, safeguarding this transition zone between the dry western regions and moist eastern parts of the country. This 300,000-hectare Kransberg block contains more biodiversity than any other area in the Waterberg system and is covered by Acock’s veld types.
Here in Marakele, revered South African naturalist and wordsmith Eugene Marais penned his seminal work Soul of the White Ant. He took inspiration for this, as well as much of his scientific work, from the botanical diversity of this park—its location in the transitional zone makes it home to a diverse array. The park’s 765 plant species include rare Waterberg cycads, yellowwoods, proteas, and camel thorns. Mixed bushveld, Waterberg moist bushveld, and sweet bushveld all occur here.
Its vastly varying altitudes – from 1,050m above sea level in the valley plains to the west and southwest to 2,088m above sea level on the summit of the Kransberg – also ensure a diversity of wildlife and plant species. These altitudes translate into vastly different rainfalls in different areas in the park, mainly between October and April – from 485mm of annual rainfall on the plains to 719mm in the highest parts of the Waterberg.
Elephants grace the water in Marakele
The park is also home to three river systems: the Matlabas and Mamba River systems flow northwest through the park, the Sterkstroom River system flows northeast, and the Sundays River flows south through the park.
The northern section of Marakele is home to the Marataba concession, a 21,000-hectare, privately managed area that hosts luxury lodges and conservation camps.
The Waterberg mountains showcased in watercolour, seen from the Marataba section of the park
The wildlife of Marakele
Marakele hosts incredibly diverse wildlife, big and small. While it is known as a Big Five reserve (lion, leopard, elephant, rhino and buffalo all occur here), ticking these all off the sighting list is not always a given and requires much patience and a few days spent here. The Big Five are only present in the larger eastern side of the park, separated from the western side by a regional road. These two sides are connected by a short tunnel with an electrified gate.
Many visitors are fortunate enough to spot leopards lurking near the top of the mountain en route to Lenong viewpoint. Other species in the park include tsessebe, warthog, bushpig, kudu, eland, impala, sable antelope, waterbuck, giraffe and zebra – among others. And not to forget, smaller delights, including bat-eared and Cape fox, genet, lesser bushbaby, porcupine, various bat species, and the aforementioned klipspringer, which are prevalent along the mountain pass up to Lenong. Cheetahs also occur in the park but are more often seen in the northern Marataba section of the park. Although they are difficult to contain within its fences, wild dogs are present too – and Marakele is an essential site for conserving these endangered carnivores. However, they move around a lot, so they are not easy to see.
A white rhino seen on the slopesLions making a show of themselves on the roadSpotting a leopard on a Marakale safariA klipspringer up at Lenong viewpointA once-in-a-lifetime sighting of a pangolin in the Marataba section of Marakele
Birders are in for a treat. With one of the world’s largest Cape vulture colonies breeding in the park (often seen from Lenong viewpoint, gathered near the mountain tops), prepare to be amazed. Almost 800 breeding pairs are present in this colony. Beyond these beauties, the landscape’s mix of dry western and moist eastern habitats brings various feathered friends – a crossover allowing visitors to see certain closely related species alongside one another, a rare treat. For example, pin-tailed and shaft-tailed whydah, arrow-marked and southern pied babbler, dark-capped and red-eyed bulbul, tawny-flanked and black-chested prinia, grey and Cape penduline tit and white-browed and Kalahari scrub robin all coexist here. The mountain tops of Marakele are also home to some stunning cliffside specials, such as Cape rock thrush, buff-streaked chat, mocking cliff-chat, mountain wheatear, Cape bunting, malachite sunbird, lazy and wailing cisticola, and swee waxbill. Whether you are looking for diverse birds of prey or want to geek out over pipits, Marakele’s avian action has you covered from dawn to dusk and beyond. Listen to the call of the fiery-necked nightjar and various owl species complementing the crickets once darkness falls.
Marakele is home to one of the largest Cape vulture breeding colonies in the world
What to do in Marakele
Marakele’s scenery is spectacular and diverse, varying from rugged mountains, high cliffs and rolling hills to bushveld-blanketed plains. In addition to searching for wildlife from the comfort of your vehicle, guided game drives offer more insight into the park. The park is also home to the Marakele 4×4 Eco Trail, a guided 3-day trail exploring the park’s wilderness areas.
For those who prefer exploring on foot, book an early morning or sunset guided interpretive walk with an experienced guide. This will allow you to get to know the bushveld up close while looking at the signs and tracks around you.
Exploring Marakele on foot will unveil many wonders
The park is also home to an abundance of iron-age and heritage sites, which will be made accessible to visitors in the future. There are currently 130 potential heritage sites that have been identified in the park. These include Stone Age surface scatters, Early and Late Iron Age sites, and historic farmsteads and outbuildings.
Remember to go by the Bollonoto Dam and bird hide, especially during the rainy season, to watch nature while hours go by. Or, pack a picnic to enjoy at the picnic site.
Finding hidden wonders on a bush walk
Explore and stay in Marakele
To experience the park in all its glory, spend a few nights. The national park offers various accommodation options, from a comfortable guest house to furnished safari tents on both the park’s non-Big Five and Big Five sides and camping sites. On the eastern side, the park’s campsite is frequented by zebras and wildebeest grazing the outskirts of the camp. You might even have a curious ostrich walk through the camp. A rustic bush camp at Morukure offers a self-catering bushveld experience in a peaceful, rustic camp in a remote area inaccessible to day visitors. Visitors can pitch their tents in a grove of sheltering Tamboti trees and immerse themselves in nature.
The park does not have a restaurant, but with the town of Thabazimbi 30km away, it is not much effort to quickly pop out for breakfast or lunch. There is also a swimming pool at the park’s campsite for cooling down on summer days.
Marakele is a place to immerse in history, connect deeply with nature, and appreciate Africa’s cultural richness. While it’s possible to explore much of the park in a single day, staying a few days allows a fuller experience of its landscapes and stories. The popular dry season from May to September offers cooler weather and peak wildlife sightings, while summer rewards visitors with lush scenery, migratory birds, and vibrant, post-rain landscapes for those willing to brave the heat.
The park offers tented camp accommodation, as well as a guest house and camping options
With easy self-drive access on scenic roads, spotting opportunities from open-top safari vehicles, and guided bush walks with knowledgeable rangers, Marakele National Park is one of South Africa’s best-kept secrets. Its diverse landscapes and wildlife viewing in a compact, pristine setting make it worth multiple return visits from nature lovers near and far.
Further reading
Marakele is an excellent destination for spotting bat-eared foxes and earned a spot on our list of destinations for seeing nocturnal animals. Here are the top 12 nocturnal animals to seek and where to find them.
In a world where climate change stories often spell disaster, Africa’s ancient baobab trees stand as a surprising symbol of resilience. Though recent studies sparked fears that these iconic giants might be doomed, new research reveals a different story – one of enduring strength and adaptability that has kept baobabs standing for millennia. René de Klerk reports
There is no shortage of sources telling us how increasing temperatures due to human-induced climate change will affect everything from wildlife to plants. The headlines are filled with tales of how countless species are under pressure, dying out, or struggling to adapt.
When it comes to Africa’s baobab trees, literature made available over the past few years has led many to believe they are busy dying out. A 2018 study by Patrut et al. published in Nature titled ‘The demise of the largest and oldest African baobabs’ claimed these trees are dying due to climate change. The study highlighted that 10 of the 15 trees they examined had recently died or collapsed. Understandably, this went viral despite their study suggesting more research is required. It seemed like the end of Africa’s iconic baobab trees.
This sparked concern for Sarah Venter, a baobab ecologist from the University of Witwatersrand. “I have been studying baobabs for over 20 years as I live in an area where I am surrounded by hundreds of them. When I read the 2018 article that suggested the large baobabs were dying of climate change this concerned me and I felt I needed to look deeper to see if this was real or just speculation,” she explains. She then embarked on a study with her team by travelling across South Africa, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Namibia, visiting many of the iconic trees. They visited 106 previously measured baobab trees.
The famous baobabs of Nxai Pan, Botswana, standing tall under the night sky
Their research did not show the same grim findings – leading us to believe that baobabs are much more resilient than has been suggested. As part of the study, she highlighted that older baobab trees (radiocarbon dating shows the oldest has been around for well over 2,500 years) would have endured erratic climate conditions in the past. The carbon isotope composition of the pith from the nine baobabs revealed extensive rainfall variations in the past 1,000 years. This included numerous droughts, including one in 1840, which was the driest period in the 1,000 years immediately preceding the 2014 study.
Venter and her colleague’s study (titled ‘Baobabs as symbols of resilience’) published in Nature Plants showed that baobab mortality rates remain very low and populations are stable, contrary to early speculation that rising temperatures posed an existential threat. Only one tree had died in the past 17 years. Those that are dying are dying due to other factors, and not climate change.
According to Venter, there are far more significant risks than increasing temperatures. Because baobab trees have softer wood, trees that become too big will break and die back. Baobab tree populations always have more medium-sized trees compared to large ones.
Venter also noted that too much water is a much bigger issue for baobabs than too little water. This is especially a problem in winter when the trees are bare. “Baobabs have very fibrous and light wood, so there is very little resistance to waterlogging when the trees have no leaves that would normally help pump water away from the roots,” she explains. This can then lead to root and stem rot. Venter says this highlights why baobabs in high-rainfall areas have shorter life expectancies than those in dryer areas.
One of the baobabs forming part of Sarah Venter’s study
But what then about the previous study suggesting the baobab trees are dying? Only one of the trees indicated as dying in the original study died during a drought period. The others died during years with regular rainfall levels, and two collapsed from too much water due to artificial watering. Another study in Musina Nature Reserve in South Africa tracked the growth and survival of 116 adult trees. Between 1998 and 2023, not one adult tree died despite recurring droughts in the area. Also, many trees with collapsed stems in the original study show signs of regrowth, and many even flower.
Baobabs do face more threats, one being herbivore damage, both by livestock and wildlife. Another study showed a 90% mortality rate of young trees aged between one and three years in communal grazing land. Once they reach adulthood, this threat continues. Livestock like goats damage trees extensively. Elephants pose a danger for baobab tree mortality due to bark stripping, even in protected areas. For example, elephants contributed to an 8% annual mortality rate in the Mapungubwe National Park between 2009 and 2019.
Elephant and baobab in Tarangire National Park, Tanzania. Elephants pose a danger to baobabs due to bark stripping
“The future is good for baobabs,” explains Venter. “Adult trees do not die easily and in general, local people and customs protect them. Many people also like propagating and planting baobabs. This helps mitigate the loss of seedlings to domestic animal browsing.”
Unfortunately, poor rainfall, habitat destruction, soil erosion, grazing and trampling by herbivores prevent baobabs from recruiting in many areas, showing that the fate of Africa’s baobabs under various climate change scenarios is not necessarily straightforward.
Massive ancient baobab trees are a feature of many arid African landscapes, and AG produced a fantastic starlight gallery celebrating these grey giants. Check out our gallery, Baobab and quiver trees – reaching for the stars, here.
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Was another famous tusker hunted? + Journey into Pendjari & W
Life in a conservation brand is changing rapidly. Yes, we earn our living as a travel company – handcrafted experiential SAFARIS – but at the root of brandAG is our conservation media, and we are passionate about telling Africa’s stories – warts and all.
The request for more information below about yet another giant elephant allegedly killed by trophy hunters is a classic case in point. For trophy hunters, the personal risk of bragging about their trophies online has increased significantly because of vigilantism, which sometimes spills over into a physical safety threat. Perhaps because of this, these bastions of transparency, ethics and ‘fair chase’ now burn carcasses and no longer share trophy images in the public online space. Silent assassins. And, without facts, the vacuum is filled by speculation on social media. And this makes our role as purveyors of fact more complicated.
Have no fear, though; we have ways and means of rooting out the facts behind this latest tragic example of the plunder of Africa’s biodiversity, and when we do, we will let you know. Because facts matter. A luta continua.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Did you know that gorillas hum while they eat? Yes, that’s right: gorillas have meal soundtracks. According to primatologist Eva Luef, who spent hours observing western lowland gorillas in Congo-Brazzaville, gorillas make two distinct noises while dining: a low hum, like a contented sigh, and a more melodic “song” that sounds like someone testing out a new tune. Moreover, these tunes may have an evolutionary purpose: it’s the dominant silverback male’s way of signalling to others that it’s time to dig in.
This week, we are seeking more info on the possible trophy hunting of another super tusker in Tanzania. The jury is still out on the identity of the elephant. Plus, we follow Kingsley Holgate’s Afrika Odyssey adventure through Benin’s W and Pendjari National Parks. See more below.
More sad news: the African penguin has been uplisted as critically endangered. But hope is not lost. You can help by calling on the South African government to save these penguins and the marine ecosystems they anchor. See more info in the video at the end of our newsletter.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
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Discover Liuwa Plain’s vast horizons, thriving lion population, and Africa’s second-largest wildebeest migration – without the crowds. From bird-filled wetlands to predator-packed plains, this exclusive safari offers unforgettable wildlife encounters. Now is the time to experience a rare journey into Africa’s untouched wilderness!
Southern Africa mega safari – 19 days – from US$9,145pps
Be swept off your feet with wall-to-wall wildlife action on this iconic Southern African safari. You’ll visit Greater Kruger, Cape Town and the Winelands in South Africa. And you’ll also visit Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park in Botswana. Top this all off with a trip to magnificent Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe – for a once-in-a-lifetime adventure.
Colin and Sara Taylor from the United Kingdom recently spent 10 days on a quintessential Kenyan safari with AG. Here is what they had to say about their experience:
Kenyan Safari Adventure: We took a day flight to Nairobi, spent one night there and took a light aircraft to Saruni Samburu the next morning. We were met at the airstrip and our Samburu driver was our guide on all trips from the camp. He was outstanding, and incredibly knowledgeable on all the animals, and especially the birds – of which there are so many stunning varieties. Saruni Samburu, a luxury camp, is situated at the top of a rocky hill in the Kalama Conservancy. It has an adjacent waterhole and offers incredible views for miles around. After three nights, we flew down to the Mara North Conservancy to visit Saruni Mara, which is tucked away in a secluded and wooded area along a long bumpy road! In the conservancy, safari vehicles are allowed off the tracks so we were able to get very close to many beautiful animals. This is not the case in the Maasai Mara itself. There are also strict rules which prevent too many vehicles being at one sighting at a time. We had many wonderful experiences there and the best were normally on the early morning game drives – well worth getting up for! After four nights, we boarded a light aircraft flight back to Nairobi and then went for lunch in a beautiful garden restaurant near the Karen Blixen Museum, before taking our night flight back to London. Thank you Christian from AG for arranging our safari – everything went like clockwork!
WATCH: The African penguin has just been uplisted to critically endangered. Breeding pairs have dropped below 10,000 – an alarmingly low number. This shows the rapid decline of African penguins – which could face extinction within a decade. Learn more about the plight facing African penguins, and what you can do to help. (04:17) Click here to watch
People often ask us what the most important item is to have on an expedition. The expected answer is usually things like a well-stocked medical kit, fuel jerry cans, 4×4 recovery equipment, the basics (Nando’s sauce, Mrs Balls chutney, marmite), extra spare tyres, a big camp kettle and a bottle or two of your favourite plonk. But they’re a wee bit surprised when we give our answer. Over the years, one of the most important things we’ve found is, wherever possible, to have an empty seat so you can load up a local character who’s got the language, knows the culture and can bring your journey alive with homegrown knowledge and contacts.
After back-tracking from Ennedi in northern Chad to the busy Kousseri border with Cameroon and facing a daunting route into Nigeria to reach Benin, we load up a confident young fellow by the name of Barka Abani – a cross-border trader who knows the badlands and backroads of this region well. What a bonus Barka turns out to be: he easily handles the tricky paperwork of remote border crossings, and guides us along rutted sand tracks pockmarked with deep washaways and fuel smugglers in overloaded, swaying trucks going flat-out. He takes to camping wild in deserted quarries like an old-timer, and is a wizard at negotiating our way through countless military roadblocks in the volatile north-eastern territories of Nigeria.
Barka Abani takes up the empty seat in the Expedition vehicle
Further south, Nigeria’s traffic is mindboggling: tuk-tuks and motorbikes weaving in and out at crazy speeds with not a crash helmet in sight, crabbing busses and trucks with names like ‘God Rules’, ‘Triumphant Child’, ‘God Knows Better’ and ‘Masha Allah’ coming at you on the wrong side of the road, and speedsters with a death wish. Some days later, a smiling policeman drops the rope at the last roadblock, shouting, “White man – how are you? God bless Nigeria!” One must admire the Nigerians’ good humour and zest for life.
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
Amazons, slaves, voodoo and insurgency
At African Parks Benin HQ in Cotonou on the Atlantic coast, we receive a hearty welcome from regional manager Hugues Akpona and his team; it seems they’ve been looking forward to the expedition’s arrival for days and are relieved we’ve made it from Chad in one piece.
Benin is laid-back and calm after the energetic chaos of crossing Nigeria. It has an extraordinary history dating back to the 11th century, including a vast empire known for its gold, ivory and trading savvy; the sophisticated but now lost medieval city of Edo that had earthworks longer than the Great Wall of China; the world’s only all-female army – so ruthless that European colonists called them ‘Amazons’ after the merciless warrior-women of Greek mythology; and the exquisitely crafted Benin Bronzes – sculptures that date back to the 1500s.
We first explored this small, fascinating West African country some 15 years ago as part of a Land Rover journey to track the entire outline of Africa through 33 countries in 449 days. In our book from that expedition, ‘Dispatches from the Outside Edge’, we told the story of Benin’s voodoo king endorsing that expedition’s Scroll of Peace and Goodwill, the eerie Sacred Forest at Kpasse with its voodoo god statues, the ancient Python Temple and the heartbreaking sight of the Door of No Return on the beach at Ouidah, which stands at the place where a million slaves clad in chains were sent into the shallows to board slaving ships, to be carried away forever across the Atlantic to the Caribbean and Americas.
The Door of No Return
Now we’re back again with a different objective: to reach Pendjari and W National Parks, numbers 20 and 21 of this conservation, community and culture-themed Afrika Odyssey Expedition. But after more than a year of zigzagging across the continent to connect all 22 African Parks-managed protected areas, we’re starting to feel the pace. The grub boxes are near-empty, our clothes are stiff with dried sweat and dirt, we’re down a couple of belt notches, and everything is coated in thick dust.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? You can view and book accommodation to various African Parks destinations by clicking here.
Still, the expedition Defender 130s gamely grind on, now with 60,000 kilometres on the clock and redolent with that typical expedition smell of unwashed socks, over-ripe bananas and pungent curry powder from a spilt bottle somewhere. Graeme Madsen, who joined the team in Chad, says they’re the best he’s ever driven; he can’t believe their capabilities.
Into the ‘red zone’ en route to Pendjari
To complete this penultimate chapter, we must travel to the far north of Benin to reach the last strongholds of West Africa’s most endangered wildlife. However, there are plenty of travel warnings about jihadist threats spilling over from neighbouring Burkina Faso, which is, according to some security advisories, now high on the global terrorism index. Pendjari and Park W are currently off-limits to tourists. Still, Jaques Kougbadi, African Parks’ energetic head of communications for Benin, who’s travelling in the lead Defender as our interpreter, guide and cameraman, assures us that all will be OK.
We take a deep breath and tackle the long road north. Jacques arranges for us to overnight at a small, homely lodge called Le Bélier in the town of Natitingou, where Sammy Kassim, the friendly owner, tells us he is risking all in the belief that tourism to Benin’s national parks will soon return. “This place used to be full,” he says sadly, waving a hand across his empty restaurant whilst praising the conservation and community work being done by African Parks. “Now, the government and the military will secure the area; we have hope.”
Early the following morning, under the watchful eye of six well-armed military vehicles, we’re told to keep close – no more than four metres apart – as we push on in intense heat and dust through the thickly wooded country, following the base of the Atacora Mountains. Much to our surprise, a motorbike procession suddenly appears and, with loud chanting and singing, joins the convoy to lead us to the opening of a community water point constructed by African Parks.
A motorbike convoy suddenly appears
Hundreds of colourfully dressed villagers are milling around the new solar pump borehole, storage tanks, livestock water troughs and a long line of taps for domestic drinking water. There’s frenetic drum beating, dancing, joyful singing and congratulatory speeches. At that moment, the seriousness of our military protection is forgotten as we join the celebrations. It’s also a reminder of how important it is for conservation to work with neighbouring communities, even in difficult and sometimes dangerous circumstances like these.
Pendjari
Back in the convoy, we reach the main gate of Pendjari National Park. Jacques explains we’re the first visitors in many months following an IED attack in 2022 that tragically killed a group of African Parks personnel, one of whom we knew. More recently, some villagers were brutally beheaded.
Reaching the gate of Pendjari National Park
A small team of armed rangers on motorbikes ride slowly ahead of the expedition Defenders, carefully scanning the road and verges for any sign of IEDs that might have been recently planted. “It’s standard procedure; we grade the roads regularly to make it easier to identify human tracks and activities,” Jacques tells us. Our cheerful radio chatter fades to silence as the magnitude of what the park’s staff face daily hits home.
At Pendjari’s HQ, we meet the instantly likeable park manager Habte Tadesse – tough, stocky and full of fun. Over small cups of Ethiopian coffee, 42-year-old Habte tells us that he grew up in southern Ethiopia, where his father and grandfather had both been game rangers in the Omo National Park and learned his English at the South African Wildlife College.
Sitting up on a hill in an open-sided rondavel that serves as a canteen with forever views, Habte explains that both Pendjari and W National Parks form part of the 26,361-square-kilometre transnational W-Arly-Pendjari complex that spans Benin, Burkina Faso and Niger. It’s the largest intact ecosystem remaining in West Africa and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
A giant welcome at Park W
“This is the last refuge for the region’s elephants – we’ve recently collared a number of them – and some of the remaining critically endangered West African lion population, not to mention the korrigum antelope (looks like a topi) and the western hartebeest – species that you’ve probably not seen before,” explains Habte.
West African lions in Pendjari
“We must continue to protect and safeguard this area, not just for the wildlife but also for the people,” he continues. “The government of Benin is 100% supportive; they even help fund the conservation work in both parks, which with other important partners, helps us to keep our promises to the communities. We can win this war against the jihadists; theirs is a fight for ideology – ours is for conservation and communities. If the north falls to jihadists, it will be the beginning of the end for Benin, and the government knows that. That’s why we have such commitment with more than 3,000 soldiers deployed along the border. Their job is to protect; ours is to conserve for the future.”
The sky goes dark. Pendjari’s camp cook is a genius, producing the best crispy chips and sunny-side-up, soft-fried eggs we’ve had in months. That night, we resort to sleeping under wet sarongs to get some relief from the unrelenting heat and humidity. The following day, after the coffee ceremony with Habte (three or four small cups each Ethiopian-style), we explore the Park HQ; the infrastructure is impressive: graded roads, airstrip and hangers, neatly thatched accommodation units, offices, ranger quarters, a training centre and a state-of-the-art boma including a strong-walled quarantine pen – “For when the black rhinos arrive,” says Habte with a grin. “Everything you see is built by local labour,” he adds proudly.
After a night sleeping out under the stars at the Mare Bai waterhole, with an alert ranger team standing guard and Habte adding water to the expedition’s symbolic calabash, we fly by helicopter over Pendjari, spotting lots of wildlife and, in the distance, a military camp close to the border with Burkina Faso.
Pendjari park manager Habte Tadessa grins with Kingsley after adding water to the calabash
Later, at a flag-raising ceremony in the parade ground with the ranger corps, Habte thanks us for the immense journey we’ve undertaken to reach Pendjari despite it being in a ‘red zone’ and for assisting with their community work: Rite to Sight-reading glasses for the poor-sighted, malaria prevention for mums and children and the Wildlife Art competition for schoolkids at Pendjari’s environmental clubs.
Ross hands out mosquito netsThe winner of the Wildlife Art competition
“Our appreciation for your monumental effort to visit Pendjari is shown in the many messages from rangers, staff and government officials that have now been added to your Scroll of Hope for Conservation…what a great book for the future!” he exclaims.
Elephants in Pendjari reach up to the rain with their trunks during a downpour
Park W
Bidding the Pendjari team farewell, we turn the expedition Defenders towards Park W, so named for the w-shaped meanderings that the Niger River has carved in this border region. It’s a winding road that takes us through the lands of the Batammariba or Tata people; animists who, surrounded by ancient baobabs, live in tall, conical, thatched and mud-built fortified village complexes called ‘sombas’. They resemble miniature castles built on different levels with beautiful granaries and entrances protected by fetishes and shared by both people and livestock.
But Kingsley isn’t doing well. He’s been battling to shake off a nasty bout of malaria that surfaced as the expedition left Chad. Despite two courses of malaria treatment, the heat and unrelenting expedition pace have taken their toll. Arriving at Park W, he’s swaying on his feet like a big baobab about to crash. Still, he insists on participating in the energetic, traditional dance welcome ceremony, meeting the local Chief and Abdel-Aziz, the very professional park manager, who hustles our team into a waiting helicopter with well-armed protection on board, to fly to the centre of Park W.
Park manager Abdel Aziz adds water to the calabash
At a beautiful river setting, Abdel-Aziz adds water to the symbolic expedition calabash, which has collected thimblefuls of water from all African Parks-managed areas across Africa. This is ceremony number 21 – the last but one of this Afrika Odyssey Expedition.
The “w” carved through the landscape by the Niger River
Picking up the story in Kingsley’s words:
“Back at base camp, we’re surrounded by elephants, who’ve come down at sunset to drink from the beautiful natural pools. These are some of the last remaining elephant herds in West Africa. Abdel-Aziz comes over to me, where I’m sitting alone, touches me on the shoulder and says quietly, ‘These elephants are safe here. Thank you for coming to Park W and allowing us to share them with you.’ Despite feeling as sick as a dog, this moment makes it all worthwhile. But next morning, I wake to see Ross, Abdel-Aziz and Dr Samuel Mvuyekure (the AP camp doctor) gathered around my bed and discussing ‘The Patient’. Last night hadn’t gone well: my heart rate was all over the place, and I struggled to breathe; Dr Samuel had to put me on oxygen.”
“These elephants are safe here”
“I’ve radioed for the plane – we’re medevac’ing you to hospital. When it lands, the pilot isn’t going to cut the engine,” Abdel-Aziz tells Kingsley. “Dad, I’m not taking no for an answer,” says Ross firmly. Twenty minutes later, Kingsley is bundled into the front seat of AP’s Cessna 206, with the smaller Dr Samuel squeezed into the back and on a three-hour flight south to a busy government hospital in Cotonou.
Dr Samuel finds the last available bed for Kingsley and, refusing to leave his side, sleeps on the floor using Kingsley’s well-travelled, 20-year-old Melvill & Moon bag as a pillow and a Maasai shuka as a blanket. Dr Sam is from Bujumbura in Burundi and served with AMISON, the peace-keeping force in Somalia, where he had his fair share of challenging medical situations. What a good man. He is another example of the committed, quality characters that African Parks attracts, and he is very determined to ensure that the ‘Beard’ in his care isn’t going to breathe his last in Benin.
“The Beninese people are wonderfully kind and friendly,” says Kingsley in a ragged voice note a couple of days later. “They excelled themselves; a constant stream of doctors and nurses (I think curiosity was a driving factor), chest x-rays, every blood test, drip, painkiller and antibiotic imaginable. It got me breathing properly again; it seems it could be a double-whammy of complicated malaria and a pneumonia-type thing. Frightening experience, but I’m on the mend!”
Meanwhile, the expedition team are in a race against time to complete the community work at Park W. Jacques whisks Ross and Graeme off to meet the celebrated Bariba Horsemen of the Banikoara Commune. “Their equestrian skills are incredible,” reports Ross. “The colourfully dressed horsemen on their richly harnessed mounts put on a great show to the accompaniment of sacred drums and blaring, hand-crafted two-metre-long trumpets. With great dignity, they also wrote messages in the Scroll to show their support for the conservation and community work being done in this border region.”
A Bariba Horseman demonstrates his skill
Constantly aware that we’re in a high-risk security area, the humanitarian work is conducted at an intense pace: malaria prevention with women, Rite to Sight for the elderly and Park W’s Wildlife Art competition for community kids; their joy at being singled out for their efforts is priceless to watch.
Our time in Benin’s northern national parks ends with a sobering event. With Abdul-Azziz and park rangers, we line up on either side of a simple, stone memorial for a moving ceremony to remember those who’ve died in the line of duty here, many of them from cross-border insurgent attacks.
A stone memorial honours those who have died in service of the park
Pendjari and Park W are the last conservation strongholds in this part of West Africa. More than 50 large mammal species rely on these two African Parks-managed areas for their continued existence, including elephant, buffalo, a dozen antelope species, hippo, spotted and striped hyena, leopard and the critically endangered West African lion and Northwest African cheetah.
Elephants in W at the water’s edge
Threats to their survival aren’t just from insurgents; habitat destruction from overgrazing, illegal hunting and fishing are just as severe as the pressure from cotton cultivation, Benin’s largest cash crop. But what a great conservation and community job the African Parks team does under these challenging circumstances; their resilience, passion and commitment make us proud to share their stories – well done, African Parks, for refusing to give up.
And so, we point the travelled-hardened Defenders back south to Cotonou and meet a cheerful but few-kilograms-lighter Kingsley. Over a few cold La Béninoise (Benin’s national beer), we discuss the final challenge: to reach Chinko in the eastern region of the Central African Republic, surely the most remote wildlife reserve in Africa and the very last of the 22 African Parks-managed areas we must visit to successfully complete the mission of this Afrika Odyssey Expedition. We can smell victory – but it’s not over yet.
Zito, the super tusker, photographed in 2019. By 2024, his tusks had grown significantly
A super tusker elephant has reportedly been trophy hunted in the Maswa Game Reserve of Tanzania, which shares an unfenced boundary with Serengeti National Park. Unconfirmed reports from the ground are rife that the elephant may be popular cross-border elephant known by local tourism lodge owners as Zito.
Updated 1 November 2024: One contact on the ground suggests that the tusk weight of the hunted elephant allegedly weighed in at 132 and 127 pounds.
Super tusker elephants have at least one tusk weighing over 100 pounds/45kg. Zito is an elephant known to roam Tanzania’s Serengeti ecosystem, Grumeti Game Reserve (on the northwest border of Serengeti National Park), and Maswa Game Reserve (south of Serengeti’s western corridor), and was formerly observed in Siana Conservancy in Kenya. Zito is a cross-border elephant and one of the last super tuskers to roam Tanzania’s greater Serengeti ecosystem.
Africa Geographic is seeking more information about this hunt, including photos of the dead elephant. As usual, all informant identities will be treated with the strictest confidentiality. Anyone with more information on this trophy hunt is urged to send more details to editors@africageographic.com. Likewise, if you have any photo evidence of Zito alive after September 2024, please share this information and pics.
Zito photographed in Grumeti in 2022
Zito was first recorded on the Elephant Voices Mara Elephant Database around 2012 as “M190” after being seen in the Siana Conservancy, east of Maasai Mara National Reserve, in Kenya.
Gini Cowell, Field Operations Manager at the Elephant Aware conservation project (based in Siana, in the Mara ecosystem), observed this elephant for some time between 2009 and 2011 in Kenya. “Even all those years ago I remember him being very magnificent with his long, splayed tusks,” says Cowell.
“On one occasion, I remember this particular male walked calmly towards our vehicle, and he stopped to observe us while casually munching on an acacia tree branch. We noticed that he had a relatively large wound on his right rump region, which did not appear very deep or life-threatening, but he would swat at it with his tail to keep flies away. It still didn’t affect his disposition. He was clearly at ease and completely undisturbed by our presence. I strongly recall how he was so huge, majestic and yet so gentle towards us.”
Zito is likely between 50 and 60 years old. Observers have estimated Zito’s tusks to weigh between 100 and 110 pounds. He was last spotted in Grumeti in July 2024. Reports of a Maswa super tusker hunt first started doing the rounds in early October.
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A video of Zito currently doing the rounds on social media. Source: Unknown (please contact us if this is your video)
A scan of trophy hunting forums reveals that Maswa was historically a popular hunting ground for super tuskers but that these elephants have now been mostly shot out.
Zito is so named for the size of his tusks – Zito means “weight” in Swahili. Zito has been referred to as “gentle and unassuming” and “incredibly relaxed” in the presence of humans.
“There is a mutual, informal agreement among stakeholders and hunters in the region that this elephant is off-limits for hunting,” says one prominent property owner in the Serengeti area.
The cross-border elephants of Tanzania and Kenya have been in the spotlight since Africa Geographic broke the news that two known super tuskers of the Amboseli ecosystem werehunted in Tanzania, near the Kenya border.
Soon after the death of these two super tuskers,another three large tuskers were hunted in Tanzania near the border, despitevarious calls by conservationists, scientists and the public to halt hunting in this area, frequented by Amboseli’s important elephant population. This brought the total to five large-tusked elephants hunted along the border in just eight months.
While Zito does not belong to the unique Amboseli elephant population, he has often been spotted along the border between the Serengeti and Kenya.
Zito photographed in Grumeti between 2019 and 2022
Super tuskers are increasingly rare, with an estimated 50 to 100 of these 100-pounders remaining in Africa. The targeting of super tuskers like Zito is a trend that threatens the future of this genetically distinct elephant population.
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Chimps mirror human discourse + Budongo Forest + bush to vineyards safari
I have just returned from an insightful elephant workshop in the stunning Tembe Elephant Park in northeastern KwaZulu Natal, near the Mozambique border. This popular annual event, presented by respected wildlife vet Johan Marais, attracts people from all over the globe, and I have wanted to attend for many years.
Johan shared his passion for tuskers, supplemented by interesting information and a trip down memory lane with photos of the giant elephants he has photographed over several decades. He shared that male elephants hit their tusk growth spurt at 40–50 years when they are also in their prime breeding years. Compare this to the shooting last year of super tusker Gilgil, who, at 35 years, was described by Michel Mantheakis – chairman of the Tanzanian Hunting Operators Association – as a “very old and past breeding bull elephant”.
About 40 enthusiasts were enthralled by his presentations, interspersed with game drives to seek out the Tembe elephants, which have some of the biggest remaining tusk genes. During these game drives, I saw more large-tusked bulls than I have seen elsewhere, barring Kenya’s Tsavo and Amboseli. Email the Tembe team to book your spot for next year’s elephant workshop.
You will hear more from teamAG about Tembe Elephant Park, which hosts exceptional sand forests, open woodland and wetlands. The park, owned by the local Tembe community, was established in 1983 to protect elephants migrating between Maputaland and southern Mozambique.
Meanwhile, here in the Greater Kruger Lowveld, we had our first early-season rains last night – a decent downpour accompanied by thunder and lightning. This has been a torrid dry season, so I hope with all my soul that more good rains will follow to break the drought’s vice-like grip.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Africa’s elusive wildcats may be a tree’s best friend. It turns out that leopards and golden cats are the secret gardeners of some of Africa’s forests. In Congo-Brazzaville and Cameroon, the nightly prowls of these predators are helping the forest grow, according to the early findings by a researcher working in the forests. How? By scaring the living daylights out of, and eating, the small animals that munch on seeds. Just the scent of a leopard nearby is enough to create a landscape of fear for these prey animals, which eat less when the cats are about. This leaves the seeds in the cats’ territories to sprout in peace. In short, the wildcats help the forest regenerate. So, next time you stroll through a lush African forest, remember: its success may, in part, be thanks to a stealthy feline gardener lurking in the shadows.
This week, we take you deep into the heart of Uganda’s Budongo Central Forest Reserve, and explore new research that reveals striking similarities between chimpanzee and human communication. Check out our stories below.
DID YOU KNOW?
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Are you yearning for a tropical beach escape or keen to explore the best that South Africa has to offer? Browse our safari recommendations below and let’s start planning your dream safari – including an island getaway in Malawi, and let’s start planning your dream safari.
Dreaming of visiting South Africa? Enjoy this iconic bush & beach 12-day safari, the best that South Africa has to offer. Be prepared to be swept off your feet with wall-to-wall wildlife action – with exceptional Greater Kruger Big 5 game viewing. This safari also includes a full-day road trip taking in the stunning scenery and cultural delights of the Lowveld. And then, head on to vibey, sophisticated Cape Town & the nearby winelands.
Mumbo Island escape – Lake Malawi – 6 days – from US$1,530pps
Escape, unwind & detox on the uninhabited island paradise of Mumbo Island in the middle of Lake Malawi. This heavenly tropical retreat is perfect for everyone, from adventuring families to honeymooning couples. Take to the waters of the lake and explore the cerulean world below or opt for a hammock in the shade, book and cocktail in hand. On the privacy of Mumbo Island, your time is your own – you decide!
Not sure when to go on safari? No worries, here is our month-by-month guide to help you decide when to have that next ultimate safari experience
What our safari clients say
Another week of five-star reviews from our happy clients. John and Hester spent 15 days traversing Namibia, starting their journey in Spitzkoppe and ending off at Epupa Falls. Here is what they had to say:
“Our third African safari arranged by Africa Geographic. The meticulous planning and care taken by our consultant, Stefan, came up to our expectations. Stefan kept close contact with us throughout the planning stage as well as during the journey itself. He was clearly concerned about our well-being on a memorable, if arduous, expedition to celebrate our 60th anniversary. Excellent accommodation arrangements at Doro Nawas and Serra Cafema, as well as at other venues (Okahandja Country Hotel, Spitzkoppe Tented Camp, Giardino Boutique Hotel, Khowarib Lodge, Epupa Falls Lodge and Oppi-Koppie Rest Camp). Stefan’s agent in Swakopmund, Pepi, was most friendly and helpful. In short, another excellent Africa Geographic experience, with our thanks to Stefan and Pepi for their professional and friendly support.” – John, South Africa
WATCH: Kenya’s coastline is dotted with thick hedges of mangroves, which are crucial to biodiversity, offer carbon sequestration, reduce poverty, and build economic resilience. See how mangrove restoration projects in Mida Creek support wildlife and local communities. (05:56) Click here to watch
Uganda is often called the “Pearl of Africa” but within this gem lies a real nugget: Budongo Central Forest Reserve. This enchanting forest reserve offers a blend of biodiversity, rich history, and natural beauty. Nestled in the heart of Uganda, where the equator crosses the African continent, Budongo Central Forest Reserve offers a sanctuary for nature lovers and adventurers.
Often overshadowed by the country’s more famous attractions, this remarkable reserve is a place where biodiversity thrives and history whispers through the trees. As part of the larger Murchison Falls Conservation Area, Budongo is a testament to nature’s resilience and the perfect destination for those seeking the tranquillity of forests, the thrill of wildlife encounters, and the beauty of cascading waterfalls.
Budongo Central Forest Reserve: where history and wildlife meet
A 4–5-hour drive northwest of Kampala, Budongo Central Forest Reserve offers an enticing blend of natural wonders. All who venture here are captivated by its landscapes and vibrant ecology. This forest reserve first received conservation attention in the late nineteenth century because of its importance in the area’s water provision and natural resources.
Nestled in western Uganda, Budongo is a sanctuary within the larger Murchison Falls Conservation Area. It once served as a royal hunting ground for Bunyoro kings, a tradition that harkens back long before the days when protection of special areas became a necessity. Today, the reserve comprises six distinct forest blocks: Siba, Waibira, Busaju, Kaniyo-Pabidi, Biiso, and Nyakafunjo, all managed by the Uganda National Forestry Authority (NFA).
One of the many delights of the Budongo Central Forest Reserve – a chimpanzee. For more pics from Patrice Quillard, click here
A natural wonderland awaits in Budongo
Located where seven of Africa’s biogeographical regions converge, Uganda is a tiny landlocked country with enormous potential. Despite its small size, Uganda has an extraordinary diversity in both terrestrial and aquatic habitats. Among these is Budongo, whose expanse spans 825km2, and unfolds across a landscape of two main vegetation types. About half of the conservation area comprises moist, medium-altitude, semi-deciduous forest, the other half is a mosaic of savannah and woodland patches. This lends greatly to the biodiversity of the region.
The forest undulates westward and down towards the East African Rift Valley, and four life-giving streams – the Waisoke, Sonso, Wake, and Bubwa crisscross the forest. These streams flow into Lake Albert, the northernmost chain of lakes in the Albertine Rift. In the northeast, on the border with Murchison Falls National Park, Kaniyo Pabidi Waterfall adds to the picturesque scenery.
As moist air rises above the Rift Valley mountains, it condenses, cools, and falls on the verdant Budongo region, amassing between 1200–2200mm annually in two rainy cycles. March to May and September to November are wet, while the forest receives a respite from the rain from December to February.
Dominating the Budongo Forest is a canopy of Uganda ironwoods, which provide a sanctuary for a rich tapestry of flora and fauna – and the habitat of some of the region’s special birds. The towering East African mahogany trees prevail physically, with some old specimens standing eighty metres tall. Other important forest species of conservation concern are the drum tree, wild mango, African teak and the vulnerable tiama. Reaching for the skies, these combine to create an enchanting and mystical atmosphere below. Sunlight gently filters through the dense canopy, casting dappled light on the forest floor.
Whether you seek the serenity of a tropical forest stroll, the thrill of wildlife encounters, or the mesmerising beauty of cascading waterfalls, Budongo offers an unforgettable destination.
A dirt road cuts through the forest
Budongo’s birds
The reserve is a haven for an astonishing variety of wildlife, with birds being one of Budongo’s top drawcards. Around 366 bird species grace Budongo, including sixty West or Central African bird species known from fewer than five locations in East Africa.
Birding along Budongo Forest’s Royal Mile
Specials that are found nowhere else in East Africa include Puvel’s illadopsis and the yellow-footed flycatcher. Other regional specials include Ituri batis, lemon-bellied crombec, white-thighed and piping hornbills, black-eared ground thrush, rufous-sided broadbill, Cassin’s spinetail, green-breasted pitta, Woodhouse’s antpecker, blue-breasted and chocolate-backed kingfishers, little green sunbird, Sabine’s spinetail, white-spotted flufftail and yellow-crested woodpecker. More regular sightings include great blue, Ross’s, black-billed and white-crested turaco, African pied wagtails, lemon-throated and Cameroon sombre greenbul, and various species of eagles, camaropteras, cuckoos and sunbirds.
A blue-breasted kingfisher surveys its prospectsSome of Budongo’s specials: chocolate-backed kingfisher, rufous-sided broadbill, Puvel’s illadopsis and piping hornbill
Birders will do well to visit Busingiro Eco Tourism Site, which is a good departure point for birding. The site includes the Royal Mile which is lined by giant trees representing many species found in the reserve.
Budongo is not a season-dependent destination, and birding is good year-round. However, it is advisable to consider the rainy and dry seasons based on your goals. The best birding is to be had from February to April and again from June to September when the trees are fruiting abundantly and birds are in their breeding plumage. Heavy rains in April and May and again in September and October may hamper your activities with slippery trails and impassable roads.
Great blue turacos in Budongo Forest
The primates and other wildlife of Budongo
Thriving in the forest habitat are good populations of eastern chimpanzees, black and white colobus monkeys, red-tailed monkeys, blue monkeys, grey-cheeked mangabeys, olive baboons, and potto and galago species.
On the forest floor, one may catch a fleeting glimpse of the chequered elephant shrew or perhaps a gaboon adder. The forest giant squirrel, the largest tree squirrel species in Africa, is high in the canopy overhead. Leopards reside in the forest but these are difficult to spot, and occasionally, lions may wander into the forest, though are very rarely seen here. Heading out of the forest into the savannah area of the reserve, elephants and buffaloes are occasionally spotted. Antelope are of the more regularly seen mammals in the forest, including waterbuck, duiker and bushbuck.
Chimpanzee trekking in Budongo
Within the forest confines are several wild chimpanzee troops, totalling upwards of 600 individuals, each with differing levels of exposure to human activity. Of these, three troops are being continuously studied and monitored by the Budongo Conservation Field Station – the Waibira, Sonso and Kaniyo-Pabidi communities. Currently, chimpanzee treks focus on visiting the Kaniyo-Pabidi community.
The Sonso community (consisting of upwards of 85 chimpanzees) were the first of Budongo’s chimpanzees to be habituated, and this painstaking and delicate work started in 1990. To reduce pressure on the Sonso clan and to gain comparative information, researchers first approached another troop, the Waibira, for habituation in 2011. Today, the Waibira consists of between 100 and 120 individuals, of which 76 are known by name. The Sonso and Waibira communities are subjects of various research projects and are therefore not currently visited by tourists.
Visitors can instead go on a chimpanzee trek to see the Kaniyo-Pabidi chimpanzee community, consisting of 100 individuals, which roams the area between Budongo Forest and Murchison Falls National Park. This community was initially habituated by The Jane Goodall Institute. Since 2009, the program has been adopted by Budongo Eco Lodge, which manages it today. Visitors trek with guides to find these chimpanzees, and once they are located (which may take between 30 minutes and 4 hours and up to 8km), trekkers spend an hour in close proximity to the troop, observing them playing, feeding, and napping.
A chimpanzee watches from above
Beyond the Sonso, Waibira and Kaniyo-Pabidi communities, at least three other chimpanzee communities are found in Budongo. These are the Busingiro, Nature Reserve and Waisoke communities. These three troops remain unhabituated.
Budongo offers the unique opportunity of a chimpanzee habituation experience, which allows visitors to assist in the process of acclimating chimps to the presence of people. The experience entails following one of the unhabituated troops for a few hours under the guidance of professional guides, and observing and recording their behaviour. The troops are much more difficult to find than the habituated ones as they move deeper in the forest (and the experience may sometimes last for a whole day due to the time spent finding the chimps). Still, the challenge lies in the thrill of tracking and encountering one of the world’s most iconic species while immersed in their forest world. The process of chimpanzee habituation can take 2–3 years at a time, and these habituation experiences assist in the process.
This experience is recommended for those who wish to spend more time observing the interactions and behaviour of chimpanzees. Permits for the habituation experience are more expensive and are not issued during the peak tourism season from July to September when trekking adventures are given priority. With this permit, you may spend up to four hours with the chimpanzees, gaining a deeper understanding of their daily routines and lives in the forest. This unparalleled experience allows you to move with these incredible creatures, observing how they feed, rest, and communicate.
All chimpanzee experiences are expertly managed by operators working under the authorisation of the Uganda Wildlife Authority and the National Forestry Authority, and obtaining permits is essential.
A young chimp keeps occupied in the treetops
As you prepare for your adventure in Budongo, remember that heading out on an experience to see chimpanzees can be physically demanding, with varying conditions and terrain. The forest is often steep, and there are no marked paths. Be sure to take good walking shoes, plenty of water, a camera and binoculars.
Explore and stay: Planning your visit
The nearest central town to Budongo is Masindi, located approximately 20km east of the forest region. You can get there easily by bus or private car. For those that prefer to fly, though, flying to Pakuba and Bugungu airfields in Murchison Falls from Entebbe International Airport is an option, which will reduce your travel time to Budongo to around an hour. Murchison Falls is a worthwhile stop for wildlife enthusiasts and could yield exciting sightings – such as of lions and elephants – so be sure to spend some time here if possible.
A stopover in Murchison Falls before heading to Budongo will reveal its own exciting wildlife experiences – even possibly sightings of lions.
For those seeking a more immersive experience, eco-lodges and tented camps on the outskirts of the reserve offer a chance to stay much closer to nature. While visiting Budongo, make the most of your visit, and consider arranging a guided tour with experienced guides familiar with the forest’s flora and fauna. They will enhance your experience by sharing their knowledge and ensuring safety during activities like chimpanzee tracking. Securing a permit is a must before you embark on your trip.
The dry season, from December to February and June to August, is generally a good time to visit Budongo (unless searching for specific bird species – see above). During these months, the weather is more predictable, and wildlife is often easier to spot as they congregate around water sources.
As you explore Budongo, remember to adhere to responsible tourism practices. Be sure to minimise your impact on the environment and wildlife. Respect the forest’s tranquillity and fragility, stay on designated trails, and tread lightly in this special place so all coming after you may enjoy it, too.
A drenched white-browed coucal tries to dry off after a downpour
With its blend of wildlife, scenic landscapes, and conservation success stories, Budongo Forest stands as a testament to the importance of preserving our natural world for future generations. For anyone seeking an unforgettable adventure in the heart of Africa, Budongo is where the whispers of the wild truly come to life.
Further reading
Uganda’s Murchison Falls NP is home to a smorgasbord of wildlife and diversity set against the backdrop of the spectacular Nile River. Read more about Murchison Falls National Park here.
What are the 10 best birding spots in Uganda? The country hosts 1065 species – the ideal place to improve your life bird species list. Read more about Uganda’s top birding spots here.
Chimpanzees live in western and central African primary and secondary woodlands and forests, farmland and fallow oil palm plantations. They are the smallest of the great apes and our closest living relative. Read more about chimpanzees, our forest kin, here.
In the vast tapestry of the animal kingdom, few creatures mirror our own existence as closely as chimpanzees. Chimpanzees have long been known for their sophisticated social structures and behavioural traits. However, until now, the nuances of their communicative practices remained largely unexplored. New findings from a groundbreaking study illuminate the striking similarities between chimpanzee and human interactions, revealing that the conversational dynamics that define our species may extend far into the primate lineage. Rene de Klerk considers recent research findings.
Chimpanzees, as our closest living evolutionary cousins, have long offered a unique window into humankind’s ancestral nature and origins. Sharing over 98% of our DNA, these intelligent primates exhibit brain structures, behaviours and social aptitudes closely resembling our own. However, one domain seemingly separating the two species is communication – with chimpanzees lacking human language’s complexity and the ability to communicate through language.
New research now reveals our links to chimpanzees may run even deeper than previously thought. In the largest-ever study of chimpanzee conversation, scientists monitored and analysed thousands of gestures exchanged between individuals across multiple populations. What they found showed that interactions between chimpanzees are not that much different from interactions between humans.
One aspect that drew interesting conclusions is the examination of conversational structure. In most cases across many different cultures, humans take turns to communicate during social situations, typically leaving an average of 200 milliseconds between the end of a sentence and a response to the statement. The transition time between these responses also differs between different cultures. A study published by the Max Planck Institute for Psycholinguistics in 2009 confirmed that the Danish took 469 milliseconds to respond while Japanese speakers respond very fast, only waiting seven milliseconds before answering.
The researchers from the University of St Andrews in Scotland and colleagues have found that chimpanzees communicate similarly, showing the same conversational structures as humans between their gestures. While chimpanzees do not use spoken language, they use gestures. The team found that, on average, chimpanzees responded to each other with gestures within 120 milliseconds.
The team also wanted to know whether there were differences in communication patterns between different groups, like in human cultures. As a result, they conducted the research across various communities. The study observed five wild East African chimpanzee communities in Uganda and Tanzania. Data collection involved extensive video recording to capture a comprehensive view of gestural communication. Some communities studied were from Uganda – the Sonso and Waibira chimpanzee communities from Budongo Central Forest Reserve, and the Kanyawara community from Kibale National Park. Chimpanzees in the Kalinzu and Issa communities represented Tanzania.
Contemplating the treetops in Kibale National Park
They found that the timing was largely consistent and overlapping across various chimpanzee communities but showed some group differences, just like the cultural variation shown in response timing across human languages.
Collection periods and methods varied depending on the specific community. For Sonso, Waibira and Issa, an ad libitum or naturalistic approach aimed to capture any gestural exchanges observed. When it came to the Kalinzu community, the team focused on following one individual chimpanzee for 30-minute targeted periods to witness gestures. The longest video clips for the study came from the Kanyawara chimpanzee community, where researchers prioritised 15-minute sessions focused on one chimp, seeking to document multimodal forms of communication.
According to Dr. Gal Badihi from the School of Biology at St Andrew’s, who was also the research paper’s lead author, the results were not entirely unexpected. “We already know that animals, including chimpanzees, can take turns. Given that they are so closely related to humans and they have to communicate in similar social contexts it makes sense that the same strategy would evolve in both species,” he explained.
However, for Badihi, the biggest surprise was just how quickly the turn-transitions were and that they were so consistent between groups and close to human timing. He said it was also interesting that the researchers found some minor variation between groups, with the Sonso community in Uganda being a little slower to respond than the other groups. This also matches cultural variation between human groups who speak different languages.
The research was relatively extensive and time-consuming, involving more than 250 chimpanzees across different communities. The team collected more than 8,500 recorded gestures. All of this information required analysis, which was a challenge in itself. “This took years and many people to collect enough video data that recorded the gestural interactions and more years to code all the necessary information to compare the different groups. It was a massive collaborative effort,” explained Badihi.
Some key findings included that 14% of interactions involved a back-and-forth exchange of gestures between two chimps. Many of these sequences contained two or more turns at quick intervals, similar to the rapid-fire structure of conversational exchange seen in human language.
The study presents fascinating new insights into primate communication and behaviour, suggesting that chimpanzee interactions share evolutionary roots and mechanisms with human language development.
As a chimpanzee lover, Badihi says there could definitely be further studies on the chimpanzees.
“We hope to see exactly when chimpanzees exchange gestures instead of just responding with a behaviour. This is interesting because, in most gestural interactions, only one individual uses gestures to make a request.” As an example, requests made through gestures, such as “give me food”, “let’s groom”, and “go away” would be met by the other individual (the recipient) responding with the requested behaviour. Badihi says their findings did not confirm if the recorded gesture-to-gesture exchanges are a type of negotiation clarification or if these indicate conflicting requests.
This groundbreaking study enhances our understanding of chimpanzee communication and bridges the evolutionary gap between humans and our closest relatives. By recognising the intricacies of gesture-based interactions among chimpanzees, we gain valuable insights into the evolutionary origins of our own social behaviours. As we continue to explore the depths of primate communication, we may uncover even more parallels that highlight the rich tapestry of life shared by humans and chimpanzees, emphasizing the importance of conserving these remarkable creatures and their habitats for future generations.
Chimpanzees live in western and central African primary and secondary woodlands and forests, farmland and fallow oil palm plantations. They are the smallest of the great apes and our closest living relative. Read more about chimpanzees, our forest kin, here.
A gallery of fantastic images of chimpanzees – in honour of our fellow great ape. Images submitted by our Photographer of the Year entrants. Check out our gallery celebrating chimpanzees here
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Mashatu’s giants + East Africa’s flamingos in peril
I have lost count of the times I have heard moaning from online ‘experts’ that elephants have devastated the Rhodesian teak (Baikiaea plurijuga) forests of Chobe and Hwange.This is a common claim that is factually bereft.
To demonstrate the point: While in the remote southern portion of Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park recently, I was driving down a cutline separating a ridge of sandy soil on my right (with teak being the dominant deciduous woodland) and clay soil (mopane) on my left. The mopane trees had been heavily pruned over the years by elephants, each year coming back with fresh leaves from stunted shrubs – the miracle tree! On my right, the equally short teak shrubs showed no signs of having been pruned. Their slow recovery after being harvested for timber was due to fire and frost, according to my guide.
Large portions of Southern Africa’s teak forests (including some in and bordering national parks) were felled to supply railway sleepers, mine shaft support and parquet flooring. Older, mature trees are now scarce because of the over-exploitation over the last half-century. Teak is exceptionally slow-growing at the best of times (saplings reach only 15cm in several years), with the aforementioned fire and frost slowing the process further.
Elephants do hammer woodland and riparian forests, where they congregate in large numbers during the dry seasons when other food is scarce. But the devastation of our teak forests? That’s on us.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Does an elephant really never forget? Well, the gentle giants do possess memory superpowers when it comes to details that are key to survival.
For a wise, elderly matriarch leading her herd to greener pastures in the midst of a drought, memories of even the smallest details – such as where to find a hidden water source – can mean the difference between life and death. Elephants don’t wander aimlessly. They remember migration routes, elephants they’ve met before, the smells and sounds of predators, and even the voices of human threats. Elephants with seasoned matriarchs who’ve been through it all lead their herds safely through droughts, while youngsters without wisdom don’t fare as well. In one case, a younger matriarch, not knowing the migration routes of the previous generation, opted to stay put during a drought. Her herd’s calves suffered a 63% mortality rate – as opposed to the usual rate of 2% during drought. Older elephants are important repositories of knowledge, and their memories could mean the survival of their herds. Elephants have the largest brains of any land mammal, and they put them to good use. Their memories aren’t just impressive, they’re essential – helping their entire herd survive and thrive.
This week, we celebrate the magic and giants of Mashatu through the photography of Roger and Pat de la Harpe, and examine how the lake habitats of East Africa’s flamingos are being pushed to the brink. Check out these stories below.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Let us romance you with a safari to South Africa’s Mother City and Botswana’s Okavango Delta. Or how about a holiday that combines wildlife and an island-style escape? Check out these safaris below, or click here for free safari planning.
The best of both worlds! Be immersed in the exquisite natural beauty and beaches, edgy urban delights and colourful history of Cape Town. Then head to the heart of Botswana’s Khwai wilderness, where you’ll encounter iconic wildlife. Explore this magnificent landscape on game drives, guided walks and mokoro trips before returning to the comfort of your luxury accommodation.
South Luangwa, Victoria Falls & Lake Malawi safari – 12 days – from US$ 7,895pps
Explore the majesty of the mighty Zambezi River and Victoria Falls, and then head into the heart of the wilderness of South Luangwa National Park, Zambia – the birthplace of walking safaris and one of Africa’s leopard hotspots. Your last stop is Nankoma Island on Lake Malawi, where you’ll enjoy sun-soaked adventure and relaxation.
Bernat has just returned from an exceptional nine-day photographic safari to Mana Pools, Zimbabwe with guides Villiers Steyn and Carl Nicholson. From elephants, wild dogs, lions and leopards to a myriad of bird species and much more, this safari was pure magic! This was Bernat’s third safari with AG, for which he once again gave us a five-star review.
“Great photo expert safari to Mana Pools with Villiers Steyn and Africa Geographic. I’ve never done walking safaris before and it was the greatest experience!” – Bernat, United Kingdom
WATCH: Six young lion cubs in MalaMala Game Reserve, South Africa, are overjoyed to reunite with their mother – bounding towards her as they hear her calls. One minute of pure African joy. (01:06) Click here to watch
East Africa’s dazzling flamingo populations have long enchanted visitors with their vibrant pink plumage and spectacular gatherings on the region’s soda lakes. But as climate change transforms these delicate ecosystems, scientists warn that these iconic birds face an uncertain future. New research reveals that rising rainfall levels and shifting lake conditions are threatening the flamingos’ feeding and breeding grounds, forcing populations into a precarious situation where their survival hangs in the balance.
Vibrant splashes of pink dot sparkling lakes, a lively contrast against the deep blue waters. Large, flamboyant flocks of lesser flamingos gather along the shores and shallows, their vibrant feathers catching the sun’s rays. It is a breathtaking spectacle with thousands of elegant pink birds socialising, feeding, and enjoying Africa’s beautiful soda lakes. Scenes like these are often seen in nature documentaries and are synonymous with East Africa’s lakes. However, things are slowly changing, and it is not necessarily a good thing for the lesser flamingos that call these salty lakes home.
The soda lake ecosystems are rich in nutrients and usually an excellent habitat for lesser flamingos. Unlike most other freshwater ecosystems, the unique alkaline and salty lakes provide a vital habitat. Specialised algal and microbial communities that form the foundation of these productive aquatic environments thrive in these conditions. Various organisms, from tiny invertebrates to fish, have evolved here and occur nowhere else. However, few depend on these landscapes more than the iconic lesser flamingo, with over three-quarters of the global population (with a total population of 2-3 million birds) residing within the soda lakes stretching across East Africa.
Lesser flamingos take flight over Lake Nakuru, Kenya
Lesser flamingos filter feed on plankton and cyanobacteria in the dense flocks for which they are famous. These flamboyances depend on the specialised soda lake habitats found mainly in Ethiopia, Kenya, and Tanzania, such as Lake Bogoria and Lake Nakuru (both in Kenya), which supported more than 1 million birds until recently. Tanzania’s Lake Natron is the only consistent regular breeding site for lesser flamingos.
Aidan Byrnes, PhD candidate at King’s College in London explains that the extreme water chemistry in soda lakes is due to natural geological, climatic and geographic processes. “High levels of nutrients, salinity and pH accumulate because the lakes often lie in closed basins with no surface outflow and water levels are determined by the balance between rainfall and evaporation. Salts and nutrients from rocks, underground hot springs and lake catchments accumulate in the water bodies.”
Flamingos fly over Lake Natron
New research conducted by Byrnes and his team suggests that these iconic birds, already listed as near threatened according to the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species, have reached a conservation crossroads. Scientists are sounding the alarm that rising lake levels linked to climate change could push some populations past the point of no return.
This study used more than two decades’ worth of satellite data (1999–2022) to determine that these critical habitats are transforming in ways that could threaten these flamingo strongholds. Analysing 22 key lakes, they discovered that rainfall is increasing in these areas. Because of this, only about half of the lakes that were ideal for feeding in the year 2000 were still suitable for flamingos two years later.
While increased rainfall might not sound like a problem in a water-scarce continent as it increases the surface areas of these lakes, there are negative consequences. The additional waters dilute the existing water, decreasing the minerals and the phytoplankton. Land use changes such as deforestation could also lead to more water in these lakes. While water levels have always fluctuated and have even been higher in the past, there is renewed reason for concern.
Flamingos in Lake Bagoria
“The concern is the rate of change in these lakes due to anthropogenic climate change and land-use intensification, as well as growing human populations and the increased pressures on lakes that the birds might have moved to previously,” explains Byrne. He says their ability to adapt to these changes is constrained. This decrease in food availability will push flamingos to different feeding grounds, potentially moving them into regions without protective status, putting them more at risk.
Kenya’s famed ‘flamingo cities’ are hardest hit. “The International Waterbird Census counts show that flamingo numbers are declining at the historically important feeding lakes Bogoria and Nakuru in response to declines in food availability,” according to Byrne. “More regular and widespread counts are required to determine declines and population shifts across their home range accurately.”
Lake Nakuru, a prime feeding ground historically supporting over a million birds, saw phytoplankton decline by 50% as the lake size increased by 91%. It used to be home to nearly a million birds in the recent past. Lake Natron also bordered precariously low algal biomass as it expanded.
The news is not all bad, though. Six of the 22 lakes surveyed in the study were more suitable for flamingos in 2022 compared to 22 years prior. However, some of these lakes are not protected.
With projections of amplified rainfall worrisome for sensitive soda ecosystems, researchers warn they need action to safeguard specialised species like lesser flamingos and their habitats. Failure could see nature’s most spectacular natural ballet reduced to an empty page in geographic history.
Mashatu Game Reserve in Botswana’s Northern Tuli Game Reserve, known as the “land of giants”, is where vast landscapes and magnificent wildlife come together in a breathtaking wilderness showcase. This is a place of iconic elephants, big cats, and rich biodiversity. It is no wonder that this place so enamoured photographer duo Roger and Pat de la Harpe, that they embarked on a journey to capture Mashatu’s spirit in their latest book project, Mashatu: Land of the Giants. Here, they share their inspiration for the project and some of the fascinating images captured in the heart of Mashatu.
It feels just like yesterday when we first embarked on what was to be our favourite coffee-table book – Tuli: Land of Giants – some 20 years ago. We have returned to the reserve several times since then, and each time, we have felt emotional at our first glimpse of those dry khaki-coloured plains that stretch as far as the eye can see. Just a few minutes in the area, it becomes apparent that the name of this vast and fantastic place could not be more fitting. Tuli is, after all, the Tswana word for dust, and there is plenty of that about, along with everything that is huge, large and giant – vistas, history, legend, trees, elephants, Africa’s big cats, plains game and bird life.
It is beyond exciting that Steve and Maggie Lansdown, the new owners of Mashatu Game Reserve in the south-central part of Tuli, welcomed us as we set out to produce a new edition of our book, published all those years ago. And so it is that, once again, we find ourselves back in this legendary place, full of enthusiasm, fresh ideas, skills, state-of-the-art cameras and software, and with a superb publishing team, to shoot this new, updated, re-conceptualised book entitled Mashatu: Land of the Giants. The project is all the more rewarding because Steve and Maggie are totally committed to the ongoing conservation of the area – a whopping 42,000 hectares now in Mashatu’s care – while at the same time providing a premier tourism destination with a low carbon footprint. What more could one ask?
Our endeavours highlight the unique past, remote wilderness, and astounding diversity of wildlife in the Mashatu Game Reserve in eastern Botswana. In a selection of some of our favourite pics below, we share what makes Mashatu special.
Like cats everywhere, a leopard has special receptor cells at the base of its whiskers that act as a sensor to help it avoid obstacles. It has particularly long whiskers and eyebrow hairs, which it puts to good use when stalking its prey, especially at night when it is most active. This leopard cub was playing around in a pile of old logsThe elephants of Mashatu do not have large, heavy tusks; some herds are completely tusk-less. It is not known whether this is a genetic tendency or the result of breeding bulls with large tusks being shot out over timeMassive in every way, the Northern Tuli Game Reserve is not for the faint-hearted. It is a harsh and untamed land, baked by a remorseless sun, with searing summer temperatures reaching over 40° C. The reserve forms part of the core of the Greater Mapungubwe Transfrontier Park, a significant wildlife sanctuary of about 5,900 square kilometresWhen startled, zebras are nervous animals and will gallop off, starting a dusty stampede across the veld. Interestingly, the zebra is Botswana’s national animal and appears in the country’s coat of arms. Here, something spooked the zebras, and all the animals took offThe African green pigeon’s plumage, while startling against the dark brown mud here, provides excellent camouflage amongst the leaves and branches of trees. They favour riverine woodland areas, eat mainly fruit and are especially fond of figsThe ultimate bush feminist, the spotted hyena lives in a world controlled by female clan members. They form a formidable sisterhood that leads the hunt, patrols their territory and defends it against other marauding clans. Hyena females are larger and heavier than the males and completely dominate them, even during mating. We had just arrived at Matebole Hide when this hyena trotted in for a drinkAt 4 or 5 years old, wildebeest become very territorial and will aggressively defend their range against other bulls. Despite their rather awkward appearance, the wildebeest is one of the most successful herbivores in eastern and southern Africa. They prefer open grasslands and woodland savannahs and are constantly searching for sweet grasses to eat and water to drink. These two bulls had been going at each other for a while but always with the rear end of one towards us. Then they turned side on, the shutter was pressed, and a second later, they galloped offLion cubs stay close to the pride for protection, and the family’s collective mothering provides security for their offspring. A cub is vulnerable to predation if separated from the rest, particularly by hyenas, lions from other prides, and even leopards. The youngsters are weaned at the age of about eight months but remain dependent on their mother for almost two years, and it is only when they approach three years that they have sufficient skill to participate in a hunt. We loved how this young lion peeped out from amongst the wild sageA leopard crosses the dry Mojale riverbed, beautifully backlit by the early morning light. A morning game drive at Mashatu is well worth getting up early for. The reserve’s game drives are in the care of experienced rangers and trackers, their knowledge of the area adding considerably to the enjoyment of the occasion. Timing is everything though: here, the leopard started walking across the riverbed as a game drive vehicle arrivedAt the end of a long, hot day, a waterhole at Fig Tree Crossing in the Majale River attracts a marvellous diversity of animals and birds. The Majale River is particularly prolific for game sightings and is a favourite with rangers and trackers, who call it, rather appropriately, ‘the mother of Mashatu’. There was plenty happening at this waterhole in the late afternoon lightLion cubs play endlessly, and their constant need for attention can wear even the most patient lioness down after a long day of continuous activity. The females are not slow to discipline their offspring with a snarl or a cuff about the ears if they become too tiresomeThe last rays of the sun picked out this leopard in a thick bush. Despite first appearances, no two leopards are alike. A leopard has dark spots on the legs, shoulders and head and rosettes on the remainder of the body, which provide excellent camouflage against its tawny coat, making it hardly discernible from the surrounding undergrowthThe central Limpopo Valley elephant herds roam freely between Botswana, South Africa and Zimbabwe. There are 1,400 elephants in the area, and the population is divided into four subgroups that vary in size with the seasons and the availability of waterSwirling waves of red-billed queleas regularly arrive to drink at the Matebole waterhole. Here, an eland peers through a flock of these little birds, known as ‘Africa’s feathered locusts’ because they are so destructive to cropsWhen a water source begins to dry up and becomes unpalatable, elephants often dig holes close by to access cool, fresh water that seeps through the sand. At the height of summer, water becomes all the more vital for Mashatu’s wildlife, and other animals often use these wells to slake their thirst. We crept to this lovely viewpoint overlooking the Majale River—what a sight!
Are you keen to embark on your own trip to this epic safari destination? Check out our safaris to Tuli Block here. You can choose from ready-made safaris or ask us to build one just for you.
About the authors
Roger and Pat de la Harpe are freelance photographers and writers based in South Africa. They are passionate about conservation, natural history, travel, and wild places. They make frequent excursions into various regions of Africa in pursuit of great stories and imagery, and their work has been featured in numerous local and international publications. They have published 28 coffee table books, many of which are a celebration of nature and the environment. As part of their commitment to using their photographic and writing skills to more significant effect, several of Roger and Pat’s books have a strong conservation emphasis to increase public awareness of the natural world.
Botswana’s Tuli Block is a place where the wind carries stories of the past, whispering over rocks, around baobabs and across the vast wilderness. Read more about Tuli here.
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Wondrous Ennedi + the great giraffe debate + our wild Hwange conservation safari
I have just returned from an epic Hwange conservation safari with our 2024 Photographer of the Year winners.
We handed over three sponsored lion collars to a team of dedicated predator researchers and learned how these collars keep local villagers safe from roaming lions that threaten lives and livelihoods. We discussed elephant politics with a local village headman, attended a school assembly, chatted with young learners and toured a village clinic paid for by an innovative rhino project.
We marvelled at herds of elephants and buffaloes emerging from the dust, craggy male lions patrolling their kingdoms and warrior lionesses nursing tiny furry bundles. We ogled sable antelope with sweeping horns and watched striding ground-hornbills and secretary birds.
After saying goodbye to our photographer winners, I journeyed on to the remote wilderness of southern Hwange – guided by a local legend with Hwange soil in his veins. He educated me about conservation issues beyond the realm of photo tourism, of a rapidly growing elephant population that is impacting heavily on woodland, of broken national park fences and desperately poor communities whose daily struggle to find water and food defines their relationship with wildlife.
Watch out in the coming months for my travel diary and photo gallery from our photographers as we celebrate this incredible place called Hwange. Also expect a Hwange safari package that combines epic wildlife sightings with conservation learnings and impact.
I also got to ponder the meaning of modern human life with master photographer guide Greg du Toit as we watched desperately thirsty buffaloes and elephants crowding artificial waterholes as the drought tightens its grip. Predators feast on stricken elephants, baby antelope die agonising deaths, and dust devils whirl through naked trees. Yet, humankind increasingly distances itself from our biological home and reality – distracted by technology, ideological constructs and fantasy digital worlds.
Of course, this drought will end – and the bushveld will recover. Real life is about seasons and cycles, feast and famine. I love this place – Hwange, Zimbabwe, Africa.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Drive through the Karoo on a summer evening and you may spot a swirling apparition in the sky. Bats? A whirlwind of debris? Or kestrel manoeuvres in the dark? Every South African summer, thousands of lesser kestrels leave their Eurasian breeding sites on cliffs and rooftops for the plains of the Karoo. Before settling down into their evening roosting spots in tall trees in the farming towns of the Karoo, these feathered fighter jets electrify the sky in their hundreds while foraging, swooping and soaring in formation. They’ve been performing this epic display for years – until recently.
Daily Maverick recently published a piece on how fewer kestrels are arriving in the Karoo, and the exact reason is unclear. In De Aar alone, the number of roosting kestrels dropped from 12,000 in 2012 to 180 in 2024. On their transoceanic journeys, kestrels face power lines, wind farms, and storms. Add in predators, humans with guns, skyscrapers covered in glass, and the war-torn sites of artillery conflict along their routes, and it’s a wonder they can navigate the skies at all. Thankfully, these little warriors haven’t vanished completely, with sightings – albeit fewer – still reported around their Karoo roosting areas. Perhaps the rest have simply found somewhere better to settle for summer? But, it’s clear that the skies aren’t as packed with these avian acrobats as they used to be.
This week we delve further into the great giraffe “necks-for-sex-or-food” debate, with ecologist Rob Simmons exploring the evolutionary biology behind the giraffe’s iconic neck. And we follow the final leg of Kingsley Holgate’s Afrika Odyssey expedition, where he and the team journeyed to the mystical Ennedi Natural and Culture Reserve in Chad. Check these stories out below.
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Story 1 https://africageographic.com/stories/ennedi-energy/
ENNEDI ENERGY
Kingsley Holgate & the Afrika Odyssey expedition are connecting 22 African Parks protected areas. Read about their trip to Ennedi, Chad
This short but iconic safari delivers two of Zimbabwe’s most popular destinations – Victoria Falls and Hwange National Park. Experience the iconic falls and all the activities the raging Zambezi River has to offer, before heading to Hwange for rewarding wildlife viewing in Zim’s largest national park.
Okavango Delta safari – 4 days – from US$2,045pps
A wilderness experience to get you hooked on the Okavango Delta and an excellent introduction to this watery paradise. Glide down the waterways on a mokoro, and encounter big cats, elephants, cheetahs, hyenas, and wild dogs. Not to mention over 400 bird species that call the delta home!
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 winners have just returned from a conservation safari in Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe, sponsored by Imvelo Safari lodges and in Association with Southern African Conservation Trust (SACT) and WILDCRU.
In addition to their safari prize, each winner became a proud sponsor of a lion research collar to help the conservation of Hwange’s wild lions. Africa Geographic has paid for these sponsorships – to the value of $2,500 each. SACT chairperson Brian Courtenay presented these collars during the safari.
These GPS satellite collars allow SACT, WILDCRU (Oxford University), the Trans-Kalahari Predator Programme (TKPP), and Nelson Mandela University to track the natural movement of lions between protected areas and develop lion management plans. They also provide an early-warning system to local communities should lions be in the vicinity, allowing them to prepare, protect livestock and prevent incidents of human-lion conflict.
WATCH: Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique is a thriving, biodiversity-rich conservation landscape. This short film showcases the wonders of Gorongosa through the eyes of Dadiva David Salomão, the youngest safari guide in Mozambique. See how responsible tourism supports the ongoing transformation and conservation efforts within Gorongosa. (01:47) Click here to watch
The giraffe, with its towering neck and elegant stature, has always fascinated both the casual observer and the scientific community. While traditional theories credit the long neck of the giraffe to natural selection – allowing them to reach food in tall trees – a persisting theory challenges this view. Did the giraffe evolve its long neck as a weapon in mating battles rather than just to survive food competition? This provocative “necks-for-sex” theory has sparked much debate. Rob Simmons dives deeper into the evolutionary biology behind the giraffe’s iconic neck.
Giraffes are constantly in the news – either because they are under severe threat or because they are just too interesting to ignore. So, it’s no surprise that the “necks-for-sex” idea has garnered much attention in recent years and has seen pushback and support from diverse sources. Is the “necks-for-sex” idea just another tall story? Or is the giraffe’s neck long so that it can outcompete competitors for food?
The extraordinary shape of adult giraffes demands an evolutionary explanation. Charles Darwin, and many who have followed him, proposed a simple and enduring explanation: that the extra 1.8m of neck allotted to giraffes will benefit them by allowing them to out-reach shorter-necked competitors to feed on succulent green leaves in tall trees. By surviving better in times of hardship, they will pass on the long-necked genes to their offspring and facilitate the evolution of the trait. It has become a classic trope of “survival of the fittest” through natural selection.
In 1996, I went looking for data to support Darwin’s feeding competition idea, and the cupboard proved surprisingly bare. Contrary to Darwin’s theories, research from East Africa showed that tall giraffes frequently fed from low-growing grewia bushes in winter (females especially so) and ate faster and more regularly at low heights. This was a surprise for such a well-oiled idea, and it set me on a journey searching for alternative data after I was struck by an idea while watching three young males sparring (“necking”) in the Sabi Sands Game Reserve in South Africa.
Unlike other species, they were clubbing each other with their heads, using their long necks to gain momentum and speed. Could giraffes have evolved a long neck as a club-like tool? When my friend and colleague Lue Scheepers told me that he had measured giraffe head and neck mass from culled giraffes in Etosha National Park, it allowed me to analyse their growth unprecedentedly, and I uncovered an unexpected relationship. Males continued to grow their necks and heads in terms of mass well past the time females stopped – around the age of eight. This continued into old age (about 28 years for the massive, black-coated males).
They were continuing to invest in the very section of their bodies one would expect them to if the neck was a sexually selected “club” used by males to beat their rivals. Indeed, this continued investment (about 4kg per year for necks and an astonishing 1kg per year for their heads) is predicted by sexual selection and is called allometric growth. This describes a process when a trait grows disproportionately in relation to other body proportions. And so the “necks-for-sex” idea was born. And it’s had growing pains ever since!
A mother giraffe lowers her neck to her calf, which starts its life with a regular neck-to-body proportion, before growth increases as it ages
Science proceeds apace when new ideas emerge and we are bombarded with new angles and new data. It is both exciting and challenging as each new angle is re-examined. That is what several groups of researchers have done. Data from Zimbabwean giraffes that had also been culled were weighed and measured by researchers from the Mammal Research Institute in Pretoria. They, too, looked for allometric growth patterns in the necks and heads of male and female giraffes and found, contrary to the large Etosha sample, that there was only isometric growth (i.e. necks in proportion to other body parts). Once their paper was published with the provocative title “Sexual selection is not the origin of long necks in giraffes”, it became clear that there was a contradiction in our relative observations of the males.
Statistical ecologist Res Altwegg’s independent analysis indicated that the findings in this paper showed that the growth patterns for males were allometric and not isometric, and the findings supported the necks-for-sex idea, contrary to what was concluded in the paper. We published our analysis in a 2010 paper and took the debate forward by suggesting that palaeontologists could help the debate by looking for a simultaneous change in neck length with a change in the “headgear” of giraffids in the fossil record.
Why is this important? Giraffids, of all hoofed animals, have a wider diversity of antlers, horns and headgear (14 to be precise) than any other group of ruminants, alive or dead. These range from singles ‘bosses’ (one reinforced keratinous mass placed on top of the head – similar to the base of a buffalo’s horns), to short forward-facing horns, sideways-pointing horns, backwards-facing racks and antlers, and even animals with four horns. We suggested that the change to the small blunt horns (or ossicones) we see today would have coincided with a longer neck (to aid the transition from wrestling or head butting to the clubbing of modern giraffes). If this is indeed the case, then a sexual selection origin would be supported.
In 2022, unexpected support for this theory came from the Junggar Basin of northern China, where a group of palaeontologists led by Shi-Qui Wang uncovered one of the smallest known giraffids ever found. This little animal (Discokeryx xiezhi), standing about 1.2 m at the shoulder, was a giraffid based on its dentition, cervical vertebrae and a curious semicircular canal unique to giraffids. Importantly, Discokeryx showed all the hallmarks of an elaborately strengthened neck, with massive vertebrae, a reinforced skull and a disc-like helmet, all beautifully designed for hitting opponents with huge forces. Their detailed analysis suggested that ancient giraffes were already on a sexually-selected pathway of promoting a “necks for sex” lineage some 16.9 million years ago!
The most recent assessment of the size and shape of extant giraffes comes from Doug Cavener in Pennsylvania, USA. Cavener and fellow researchers combined data from live zoo animals with photographic measurements of wild males and females in Tanzania. By measuring neck, leg and torso lengths from zoo animals of known age, they found that adult females surprisingly have longer necks for their body size than males (the female’s bodies were still smaller than males’, but their necks were proportionately longer). Cavener et al. suggested this offered no support for the necks-for-sex idea and instead promoted the original feeding competition idea because females could use longer necks to feed deeper inside bushes.
However, I argue that this is not a test of the necks-for-sex idea because that hypothesis does not make any predictions about the length of female necks. Their necks can be shorter or longer as far as sexual selection is concerned. The hypothesis concentrates on males having long, strong necks for beating rivals to gain access to females on oestrus. This theory posits that female necks are long because they were “dragged along” by the well-known genetic correlation between the sexes, experimentally shown in many lab experiments with fruit flies and other species. This genetic correlation also explains other non-adaptive traits like nipples on human males and tusks on female elephants. Thus, Cavener et al.’s results provide interesting insights but do not constitute a test of the necks-for-sex idea.
Ever since Darwin proposed sexual selection as an explanation for gaudy tails, elaborate songs and bizarre appendages, a sceptical audience has doubted the simple explanation that females prefer males for traits offering no survival advantages. But these traits keep popping up, and at least in animals that can be tested, there is strong experimental evidence that mates prefer long tails and elaborate songs. These are passed onto sons and daughters, who will outcompete rivals directly or indirectly for mates.
It is important to note, as did the genius Charles Darwin, that traits or behaviours can rarely be assigned to one selection pressure or another but are more often due to the sum of numerous drivers, including predators, mates, food and climate. In proposing the necks-for-sex idea, we have provided an alternative to natural selection. Longer necks may have started with a slightly longer neck in the giraffe’s short-necked ancestors, allowing individuals to survive lean times by reaching into tall trees. If that precluded the incipient giraffe from head-butting or wrestling its rivals, then a head-clubbing (necking) method of fighting would have arisen. Thus, both natural and sexual selection can be said to have shaped the bizarre animals we see today.
Science moves forward in leaps and bounds and does so by questioning our perceptions and theories. As we researchers continue to question, giraffes will continue elegantly browsing and gracefully fighting, oblivious to the brouhaha they cause for curious naturalists and evolutionary biologists.
Crossing Chad, you get the feeling of distance, time and space. It’s the fifth largest country in Africa, with much of its northern part lying in the Sahara. Bordered by Sudan in the east, the Central African Republic in the south, Cameroon, Nigeria and Niger in the west and Libya in the north, Chad is sometimes referred to as ‘the dead heart of Africa’. This not only refers to its central position but also to the reality that it is simply so dry and, at this time of the year, brutally hot; all of us are careful to add electrolytes to our water bottles daily.
And so, our Afrika Odyssey expedition to link all 22 African Parks-managed wildlife areas across the continent grinds northwards towards the Chad/Libyan border, the three overloaded Defenders one behind the other. Ross and Anna upfront, Shova Mike and Fiona next in line with Mike’s Evo bike tied down on the roof rack, and the Beard and me bringing up the rear on a gruelling traverse of the Sahel. In Arabic, ‘Sahel’ means ‘shore’ – a figurative description of the arid, southern flank of the Sahara that stretches across six countries from Senegal to Chad. Here, we’re not hassled by military or police roadblocks, and when we are stopped, the letter of invitation from African Parks paves the way forward with a salute and a smile.
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
Our stomachs rumble with hunger; the heat beats down with a vengeance. We stop at a remote market town with milling herds of camels, goats and sheep for sale, roadside stalls filled with goods from Nigeria and Cameroon, big six-wheel-drive desert trucks loaded high with smuggled drums of fuel from Libya vying for space, and fierce-looking desert nomads in turbans and robes choking the narrow alleyways. Sizzling on the coals of a desert shisanyama café are roughly chopped pieces of fat-tailed sheep. We choose a large leg and soon, using thumbs and forefingers, we’re digging into chunks of roasted mutton served on a large, round tin tray with red-hot chilli powder and salt, and using flat, round loaves of bread called ‘mapa’ to soak up the juices. This gastronomic adventure washed down with big mugs of hot, sweet ginger tea. It’s like we’ve died and gone to heaven!
Trucks loaded high with goods cross the Sahel
The sand track to the Sahara outpost of Fada seems never-ending and is tough on the Defenders. To avoid the thick, billowing powder dust, each Landy takes its path, knowing that all roads eventually lead to Fada, but at the same time, we have to keep sight of each other – it’s easy to get lost out here. After too much mutton and bread, we’d do anything to throw out our bedrolls under a stunted thorn tree for an afternoon nap, but we must push on in a race against the setting sun. We don’t want to travel this winding route in the dark; already, we’re battling to follow the windblown tracks of Issakha Daoussa, the African Parks driver now guiding us to their base camp.
Suddenly, Issakha veers off the track; we hurriedly hit the Defenders’ sand mode and high-lift buttons, speeding up and over-dilating dunes. On the other side is a surprise opening in a massive, free-standing rock formation – a natural tunnel large enough to drive the Landies through. Beyond, a mindboggling sunset vista turns the rocky outcrops and desert sands into an other-worldly, red-gold picture of beauty, the likes of which none of us have ever seen before. We’re all speechless – and this is just the beginning.
A mindboggling sunset over the rocky outcrops
What a welcome to the Ennedi Natural and Cultural Reserve. Co-managed by African Parks and the Chadian government, it spans 40,000 square kilometres of natural, sculpted landscapes marked by sandstone cliffs, giant labyrinths, rippling dunes dotted with scrubby grasses and water catchments. Known as the Eden of the Sahara, the reserve lies within the Ennedi Massif, a mountainous refuge declared a World Heritage Site in 2016 for its unique natural formations and globally significant rock art.
Astonishing rock art found in Ennedi’s sandstone caves
Following each other’s taillights, we finally reach African Parks’ HQ outside Fada, where a line of paraffin lanterns guide us into the newly built Oundoubah Camp. Set in a small theatre of sandstone cliffs, the simple canvas tents are clad in traditional, hand-woven palm-frond mats, each with an outdoor bathroom fashioned from stone. The units are so beautifully crafted that they blend into the surrounding sea of sand and rock. We’re told that our expedition team are the camp’s first visitors.
Ennedi is park number 19 of this quest, and what a privilege to meet up with Erik Mararv (African Parks’ regional manager for Central Africa), together with Jonas Eriksson and Manon Jampy, whom we last saw a few weeks ago at Odzala-Kakoua National Park in Congo-Brazzaville. Around the campfire, we’re joined by Ennedi park manager Issakha Guirki, Jean Didier Akpona (head of logistics) and a visiting scientist from Austria. As always with African Parks, it’s an interesting bunch of people, all with a common goal of preserving Africa’s wild spaces and supporting local communities.
Ennedi team member Angele Assiam and Ennedi park manager Issakja Duirki page through the expedition scroll
It’s also an excellent opportunity to discuss logistics for Shova Mike’s long-awaited traverse of Ennedi by bicycle. “Mike, you are aware of the heat? Today was 49°C – you’ll need lots of water,” says Erik between mouthfuls of delicious food served by the two jolly lady cooks in charge of the camp kitchen. We explain that Shova Mike has cycled much of the way here through intense heat, so he is well-salted by now. We add that his many adventurous exploits include every Cape Epic mountain bike race and climbing Mt Everest twice as part of completing the Seven Summits of the World mountaineering challenge. We all agree he’s completely crazy! But for Mike’s safety, an African Parks vehicle with rangers and armed soldiers will accompany us on our journey through Ennedi.
A dry riverbed running through Ennedi
It turns out to be a truly magnificent adventure. One day rolls into the next, and we camp wild every night with a canopy of desert stars glittering overhead, surrounded by the wondrous solitude and grandeur of the most beautiful part of the nine million-square-kilometre Sahara, the largest hot desert in the world. Ennedi is like nowhere else on Earth; we feel like Lilliputians dwarfed by the 80-metre-high Arch of Aloba, the second-highest natural arch in the world, that defies gravity.
Further out in the desert, we come across the shattered, abandoned remnants of Gaddafi’s tanks, destroyed in the 1987 Battle of Fada between Chad and Libya, now burnished bronze by sun, wind and sand. At the Guelta d’Archei (‘guelta’ is a small desert pond fed by natural drainage or springs), Ross and Anna walk beneath towering sandstone cliffs and through grunting, gurgling, thirst-quenching camels for a sighting of the tiny, relic population of West African crocodiles that amazingly still survive here.
Old tanks abandoned by Gaddafi’s army
In his book The life of my choice, Wilfred Thesinger – one of the greatest explorers of the 20th century known for his pioneering journeys through the deserts of Arabia and North Africa – describes his visit to Ennedi in 1938. He wrote, “Beyond the Wadi Hauash; we followed the western edge of the Ennedi Massif where a series of plateaus, weathered peaks and pinnacles rose 5,000 feet and were intercepted by sheer-sided gorges. In their rock faces were many caves, in some of which I found paintings in different colours, depicting hunting scenes, horsemen, camels, long-horned cattle, and human figures clothed and naked…”
Camels line the water
That was 86 years ago, and today, African Parks and a team of archaeologists are finding and mapping undiscovered caves of prehistoric art, shards of pottery, grinding stones and human remains dating back 7,000 years. Some 30,000 people of the nomadic Toubou and Bideyat tribes still traverse this harshly beautiful region, following their age-old cultural traditions.
In a wire-bound notebook, Kingsley sketches some of the sandstone rock formations that seem to grow out of the Saharan sands of this Star Wars-like landscape. Around the campfire, it’s a game of words to try and describe their incredible shapes: crocodiles and turtles, dynasties of dinosaurs, skeletal fingers reaching for the sky, sentinels guarding desert passageways, jumbles of juggernauts, minarets, chess pieces and fallen dominoes. Our imaginations flow… mushrooms and organ flutes, chimney stacks, beer bottles and wine goblets, calabashes, camels, obelisks, towering plum puddings, dragons and Easter Island-type heads.
Expedition leader Ross Holgate dwarfed by a mushroom-shaped rock formationKingsley describes the expedition journey to Ennedi rangers
And so it goes on into the starlit night – not forgetting all the rock paintings we’ve seen dating back to when the Saraha was once verdant and shimmered with lakes. The fantastical art depicts elephants, rhinos, giraffes and ostriches, cows of every shape and colour, hunting parties, men on horseback, dancers with tall, plumed headdresses and elongated figures. It’s good that African Parks is not only educating communities about the historical importance of preserving these ancient paintings but also reintroducing wildlife species, including red-necked ostriches, scimitar-horned oryx and critically endangered addax antelope, which once roamed this region in abundance. Ennedi is also home to 500 plant species, huge Arabian bustards and iconic desert-dwelling mammals such as Barbary sheep, Dorcas gazelle, honey badgers, desert hedgehogs, striped hyenas, porcupines and rock hyrax.
Critically endangered addax antelope
Shova Mike on his Evo bike is doing great. Up well before sunrise to beat the heat, he gets to experience this incredible terrain on two wheels, but it’s increasingly tough going as the temperature rises into the mid-50s. One day, we meet him at a small, isolated village called Bachekelé, the residents living in huts simply crafted from handwoven grass mats and where African Parks has built a school. In typical fashion, Mike’s enlisted the help of an interpreter and gathered poor-sighted elderly people for eye tests and reading glasses. Mike completes his two-wheel journey across Ennedi – another ‘first’ in his long line of adventures.
Shova Mike battling the Ennedi elements on the Evo bikeShova Mike helping conduct eye tests for residents of Ennedi
Back in Fada and working with the Ennedi community team, we visit La Patience Primary School. Animated children, primarily girls in pretty headscarves, get busy with the Wildlife Art competition, their polite voices sounding like a chattering flock of weaver birds, and the history of the Sahara written on their faces. Then, in the shade of a nearby neem tree, despite the heat, a large group of elderly, poor-sighted people gather patiently for eye tests and reading glasses. We’re deeply touched by the respect, patience and care shown to these old folk. As always, these events remind us that conservation’s future, even in a remote desert landscape like this, lies with neighbouring communities.
Enjoying the Wildlife Art competition
Thanks to the work of African Parks and the Chad government, Ennedi’s energy is incredible. Tormented and shaped by heat, wind, weathering, erosion and aeons of time, it remains a story of hope for conservation. Only a fortunate few get to experience its magic; hopefully, like us, some of you will too.
The Ennedi management team
Saying farewell to the Ennedi team who’ve added Fada oasis water to the expedition calabash and written messages of hope in the Scroll for Conservation, we turn the battered expedition Defenders towards West Africa. Ahead lies an arduous journey through the badlands of northern Cameroon and across Nigeria to reach Benin and two of Africa’s most remote and somewhat unknown national parks, which are right on the edge of extremism and insurgency. We trust that the Zen of Travel will continue to ride with us.
Further reading
Camels, nomads, and an oasis in Ennedi: Australian photographers, Kym and Tonya Illman, explore the towering rock formations of the Ennedi Plateau alongside Toubou nomads and their camels. Read more here.
Make some room, Big Five – there’s a new star in South Africa’s wildlife scene, and it’s a tiny amphibian with a big story. The newly discovered Cederberg dainty frog (Cacosternum cederbergense) has been hiding in plain sight for decades, mistaken for years for its distant cousin, the Karoo dainty frog. But after years of research, including many road trips through the Cederberg mountains, scientists have officially confirmed it’s an entirely new species. Even more exciting? It’s the first frog to be exclusively found in these mountains. This little frog can be distinguished from its close relatives by heart-shaped bumps on its hands, the lack of a dark streak from the eye to the iris, and its low-pitched call.
This discovery is a big conservation win, highlighting the significance of the Cederberg’s unique biodiversity. Amphibians such as frogs play vital roles in their ecosystems and are important indicators of environmental health. The discovery of Cacosternum cederbergense is a reminder of how important it is to protect Africa’s natural heritage and the creatures that call it home from habitat destruction.
This week, we look into why the lions of Zakouma NP, Chad, seem to be developing fussier appetites and why their prides are getting bigger. Also, check out the second part of Izak Smit’s Zambian photo travel diary, which showcases the wide open spaces and magnificent lions of Liuwa Plain NP.
Taryn van Jaarsveld – Editor
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
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This bumper safari is about water – or the lack thereof.
Embark on a safari filled with adventure that will take you from the majestic Victoria Falls to the watery wilderness of the Okavango Delta, and from Chobe NP and the predator-rich northern Botswana floodplains to the remote Central Kalahari and desolate salt pans. The wildlife that thrives in these landscapes is as astonishing as it is varied. Look forward to 11 days of safari splendour.
We love hearing happy tales from our clients. Gail and Roy spent four weeks exploring Namibia, and Rocco went on an unforgettable safari to Uganda and Kenya in search of chimps, gorillas and shoebills:
“This was an epic trip to Namibia over four weeks. From initial planning through to ongoing support, Christian from Africa Geographic was outstanding. Every day, there were highlights, but our favourites included Fish River Canyon, kayaking near seals, driving over dunes near Walvis Bay, rafting in the Kunene River and incredible game viewing in Etosha. Our driver/guide was excellent, as were all accommodations.” – Gail
“My trip to Uganda and Kenyawas one of my best experiences so far. The planning went smoothly – everything was arranged exactly as I had imagined. The accommodations were excellent and met all my expectations. The diversity of landscapes and wildlife was impressive, with new highlights every day. Overall, this was my best trip yet – perfectly organised and unforgettable.” – Rocco
WATCH: Is October the best safari month? Many of our safari experts view October as the best time to safari in Africa. With predators easy to spot at waterholes in southern Africa, fewer crowds at Mara River wildebeest crossings and warm weather at the beach, there are plenty of reasons to start planning next year’s October safari now. (02:00) Click here to watch
In Chad’s Zakouma National Park, improved conservation efforts have transformed the lions’ menu from small antelope to towering giraffes and hefty buffalo. And that’s not the only thing that’s changing: lions are forming larger prides. Can a well-stocked pantry turn even the fiercest predators into discerning diners? Discover how effective park management is reshaping the dietary preferences of Africa’s apex predator in Central Africa.
What is on the menu for Zakouma National Park’s lions? The answer to this is not as simple as saying, “springbok steaks”. Lions, like many other species, eat what’s available to them. If there is a bigger selection of antelope available, then lions might become more picky and choose the tastiest and most convenient option. Prey availability is a key consideration for maintaining a healthy lion population.
But lion populations are sadly declining, especially so in West and Central Africa, where lions have gone extinct or near-extinct in 61% of the protected areas where they previously occurred. It has been speculated that this decline is due to a lack of prey availability. Lions in West and Central Africa kill on average less large prey compared to southern and East Africa . This, however is explained by the lower numbers of large prey species in these areas. Large mammals in West Africa’s protected areas declined by 85%. In Central Africa the decline of wildlife has accelerated in the last 20 years. Consequently, more lions are taking smaller prey and living in smaller prides.
Compared with lions in West and Central Africa, lions in the South and East African regions eat larger prey. In Southern Africa, lions prefer large, non-mega-herbivore prey (92–632 kg) such as blue wildebeest, gemsbok and buffalo – taking high proportions of these species compared to what is available. But the most taken prey weighs between 40 and 251 kg.
Lions devouring a Defassa waterbuck taken down in Zakouma. Male waterbuck can weigh between 200kg and 260kg
Bearing this typical feeding behaviour in mind, a group of researchers decided to compare the lion preferences in Zakouma National Park (Chad) before and after a change in management. It is the only savannah park in Central Africa where large herbivore biomass has not declined but rather showed an exponential increase for many species in the last decade. In 2010, the Government of Chad signed a public-private partnership agreement with African Parks for the management of Zakouma NP. The budget increased, and the partnership led to improved security, decreased poaching and increased abundance of prey.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
The researchers had data on lion prey preference from 2003 to 2006. During this time, elephant calves were reported as the most frequent carcasses, followed by buffalo, waterbuck and hartebeest, but only waterbuck was significantly preferred. The researchers then conducted a new study using similar methods between January 2010 and June 2023. They collected lion-feeding data through opportunistic observations of lions on kills and GPS clusters from collared lions. They found that the lions were selecting larger (>250 kg) prey species (61% of kills). Buffalos and giraffes were by far the preferred species, comprising 86% of the lion’s diet.
The earlier study found that smaller antelope, like kobs, were killed proportional to availability, whilst, in the recent research, lions mostly avoided them. This contrasts other protected areas of West and Central Africa, where kobs form a large proportion of lion kills and are usually eaten proportionally to availability.
What about the elephant calves that lions were seen eating in the historical study? Elephants are generally not considered typical lion prey species (and instances where this occurs frequently in specific areas are an anomaly). Still, the older study recorded 12 instances of lions feeding on juvenile and sub-adult elephants, while none were recorded in the present study except in a single instance of scavenging. This uncommon behaviour has been observed in other parts of Africa and is speculated to be due to low numbers of ungulate species during migration seasons. Another factor is the vulnerability of dependent calves during low rainfall years when herds need to move longer distances in search of food or as a consequence of poaching.
Chasing off a pesky raptor from a kill
Zakouma’s lions chose bigger prey when more prey species returned to the park. Lions’ group sizes also increased. In fact, lions’ prey selection in Zakouma NP is now consistent with that of other intact, protected areas, with larger foraging groups hunting larger prey. The conclusion is clear: a healthy, diverse prey population in an adequately protected and resourced reserve leads to fussier, happier lions.
References
Bauer, H., Vanherle, N., Di Silvestre, I., & De Iongh, H. H. (2008). Lion-prey relations in West and Central Africa. Mammalian Biology, 73(1), 70–73. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.mambio.2006.11.006
Fraticelli, C., Zayed, A.A., Leirs, H. & Bauer, H. (2024). Lions select larger prey in a Central African protected area with increasingly effective management. Ecology and Evolution . https://doi.org/10.1002/ece3.70062
Hayward, M. W., & Kerley, G. I. H. (2005). Prey preferences of the lion (Panthera leo). Journal of Zoology, 267(3), 309–322. https://doi.org/10.1017/S0952836905007508
Further reading
Zakouma – a park returned to vibrant wilderness teeming with life, is a once-in-a-lifetime journey for travellers looking for safari adventure. Read more about travelling to Zakouma National Park, jewel of the Sahel, here.
A visit to Zakouma, central Africa’s last wildlife stronghold, means going back to old-school, authentic safari values. Read more about a safari to Zakouma here.
Kingsley Holgate & the Afrika Odyssey expedition are connecting 22 African Parks protected areas. Read about their trip to Zakouma, Chad.
Africa’s lions are disappearing. New research shows that lion populations across the continent have declined by 75% in just five decades. Read about Africa’s vanishing lions here.
There is another hidden gem in Africa, where dusty plains are transformed to a dense oasis of wildflowers after being kissed by thunderstorms, and graduate into woodland islands trapped by wetlands. Liuwa Plain National Park, this remote wilderness, is also home to the second largest wildebeest migration on the continent. On these lush picturesque plains, lions rule and scavengers reap the benefits, creating ample opportunities for photographic splendour. Izak Smit and Inki Mandt, fortunate travellers who know this hidden Zambian gem well, embarked on a safari to celebrate the wildlife of this lush destination. Izak tells us of their journey in the second of a two-part travel diary.
Our first visit to Liuwa Plain years ago allowed us to witness Lady Liuwa, the “Last Lioness” (immortalised in the documentary by Herbert Brauer) enjoying the company of lions reintroduced into the park before she passed away in 2016 at the remarkable age of 17. Since then, our visits have become a sort of pilgrimage, marvelling at the wildebeest migration and the magic that unfolds after the first rains in November each year.
The changes in the park have been remarkable since 2016, with our visits in 2018, 2021, and 2023 revealing both the challenges of drought and the positive impact of excellent management.
In 2016, we timed our visit perfectly: good rains filled the pans, attracting migratory birds and creating a vibrant display of red, pink, and white sand lilies (Crinum buphanoides). New growth sprouted everywhere, drawing around 30,000 wildebeests from the northwest. Almost overnight, wildebeest calves appeared, along with large numbers of hyenas, a few cheetahs, and a handful of lions. After some thundershowers, bullfrogs would appear almost as if on command, attracting numerous waterbirds, Anchieta’s cobras, and predatory birds, providing fantastic photographic opportunities.
Pregnant wildebeest and pregnant clouds on the plains of Liuwa
We have not been as fortunate with the weather on subsequent visits; the rains have been later and less abundant. However, predator numbers have increased dramatically, thanks to the efforts of African Parks. Predators are our passion and the primary focus of Inki’s cameras.
Over the past eight years, we’ve observed a sharp, yet inexplicable, decline in the hyena population, an increase in the lion population (now around 25, including eight small cubs), about 14 cheetahs, and 12 wild dogs. Although this has shifted the balance among the predators, the decline in hyena numbers remains a mystery. With the pans mostly dry during our last three visits, the previously abundant waterbirds have also become scarcer. Nevertheless, the predators continue to offer excellent opportunities for photography.
The camps were well maintained by friendly staff, and a beautiful new lodge, Liuwa Camp, has been built. The new bridge over the Luanginga River at Kalabo is a welcome change, replacing the old pontoon crossing. We were among the first to use this nearly completed bridge.
A new park office has been built near the southern boundary, where we had the privilege of meeting the park manager, Deon Joubert, and his wife Anel, and tapping into their vast knowledge of the park and its inhabitants.
Bon Jovi panting in the heat
For self-drivers, the sandy roads in the southern part of the park can deplete your fuel reserves quickly, so carrying enough fuel is essential. While the park may seem small, daily game drives can easily cover 80km, leading to high fuel consumption.
On a few occasions we saw fishermen visiting the few water-filled pans, spearing at the ponds’ bottoms in the hopes of capturing food. (Editorial note: African Parks has implemented a traditional fishing permit system in Liuwa Plain, allowing local people to fish in the park’s waters. In this way, illegal fishing is curbed and resources are protected for the local communities. Finding a balance between the needs of local communities and wildlife conservation is still a work in progress, as it is in many parks across Africa). Controlled fishing permits, anti-poaching efforts and research patrols are all doing their part in managing impacts on the park, and snaring and poaching continue to be managed.
Find out about Liuwa Plain for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.
We spent 11 days at Katoyana Campsite without a single disappointing day. We were treated to marvellous lion sightings, including eight tiny cubs, their father with a rock-star mane, aptly named Bon Jovi (pictured in the cover image of this article), as well as a cheetah and her sub-adult cub, among many other sightings.
In the immortal words of Arnold Schwarzenegger, “We’ll be back!”
Special bonding among pride membersTaking a dip in the heat of the dayStretching after a good napAn evasive aviator on the Liuwa airfield: a hyena shows his displeasure with a white-backed vultureWildebeest splash about in the waters near King’s PoolIn the absence of siblings that are awake, a lion cub explores his surroundingsA mother cheetah with her sub-adult cubA Liuwa bouquet boasting the pink lily, Crinum BuphanoidesGolden light, golden flight. A grey crowned crane comes into land on the planesThose annoying young siblings… a larger hyena cub shows its sibling who is bossWhen opportunity knocks! A young cub suckles at its mother’s teatThe cheetahs of Liuwa Plain. Numbers are reportedly up to 14 from a founder population of only threeLet’s get you cleaned up, Junior! Calling it a day after frolicking in the muddy wetlandsA side-striped jackal assesses its surroundsCubs snuggle within the safety of their mother’s paws
Further reading
Busanga Plains, Kafue, is one of Zambia’s hidden gem. Lush landscapes, abundant wildlife & stunning photo ops await. Read the first part of this travel diary on Zambia’s hidden gems here.
Liuwa Plain National Park in Zambia – a conservation success story – is home to precious wetlands, new lion prides & remote wilderness. Read more about Liuwa Plain National Park here
Kingsley Holgate & his Afrika Odyssey expedition team are connecting 22 parks managed by African Parks. Read about their trip to Liuwa Plain. Read more about the Afrika Odyssey Expedition to Liuwa Plain here
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Raw Africa in Zakouma, Chad + Sua Pan’s 500K flamingos
Would you use Artificial intelligence (AI) exclusively to plan a safari? Please let me know – this is a fascinating topic.
We all know that most online services are managed by software and that it’s almost impossible to get in touch with a human being when you need one. I remember when that problem only related to social media platforms, where support services have always been vacuous human-free zones – but now, most large companies have gone the same route. Will MOST of the safari planning industry also go that way? Yes, it most certainly will. Is this a good thing when planning experience-rich safaris, which requires deep personal knowledge and awareness of what’s happening in Africa right now? No, it’s not. Brace yourself for a proliferation of software-driven travel businesses scraping content from respected websites such as ours and offering homogenous itineraries devoid of character and riddled with factual inaccuracy and misleading pricing.
According to Sainsbury’s Bank, “There are dangers if consumers do not undertake due diligence to verify the results provided by AI with other sources, including talking to people in the know, such as … travel agents.” No kidding!
Rest assured that AG will not replace humans with software when it comes to working with you to craft your dream safari. Our safari consultants have rich experience, deep passion and a total dedication to you. They thrive on engagement via phone calls, emails, and WhatsApp chats. Replacing them with software would be stupid and commercial suicide. We already use technology – including AI – to ensure a seamless planning journey and will continue our quest for perfection. BUT teamAG will always be powered by flesh-and-blood humans who LOVE what they do and have an unusually deep commitment to Africa’s wild places.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Meet Brookesia nofy, the newly discovered miniature chameleon that just proved that being small doesn’t mean you can’t make a big splash. Found in Madagascar’s threatened forests, this pint-sized reptile is as long as a child’s pinky finger, making it tricky to spot. But thanks to some eagle-eyed tourists spotting the chameleon and posting their pics on social media, this tiny creature was discovered, sending scientists scrambling to find it.
At 33 millimetres long, B. nofy isn’t the smallest in its family. B. nana holds that title, along with some impressively proportioned anatomy (making its name all the more appropriate). But what B. nofy lacks in flair, it makes up in habitat choice. It’s the only tiny chameleon in Madagascar’s littoral forests, which are vanishing fast. B. nofy teaches us that small things matter. This little chameleon can help raise awareness for the conservation of Madagascar’s fragile forests. We can all take a lesson from it: sometimes, making a big difference means staying hidden and blending in just right.
This week, check out our celebration of Zakouma National Park, as seen through the eyes of Kingsley Holgate’s expedition team. And read about the remarkable number of flamingos counted in Botswana’s Sua Pan, and the critical role of the Makgadikgadi Pans in conserving these birds.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Looking for the ultimate luxury safari to three of Southern Africa’s most popular destinations? Or how about a unique desert flying safari in Namibia, including a visit to the iconic dunes of Sossusvlei? Browse our handcrafted safaris below or click here for free safari planning
Experience the adventure, landscapes and wildlife of vibrant Cape Town. Then, explore the nearby Franschhoek Winelands before a short flight to Sabi Sands Game Reserve for guided game drives, gourmet meals, sundowners and relaxation. Finish your adventure at Victoria Falls with thrilling wildlife, river cruises, stunning views and so much more!
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Take to the skies on this unique desert flying safari. You’ll explore Namibia’s awe-inspiring landscapes on a journey above the dramatic Skeleton Coast and the great Atlantic coastline. On the ground, you’ll encounter desert-adapted lions, elephants and rhinos and delve into the iconic dunes of Sossusvlei and the vibrant culture of the Himba people. This safari is for those looking to fuel their adventurous spirit!
How are people living around Hwange National Park helping to prevent human-wildlife conflict? The Long Shields Guardian Programme employs and trains local community members to protect villages from lions, safeguard cattle, and aid in wildlife management. GPS collars fitted on lions provide an early warning system to the guardians, who are able to act quickly to prevent incidents of conflict from happening. Guardians patrol daily, alerting villagers through a WhatsApp group when lions approach, and deterring the lions from community lands. Plus, the innovative ‘mobile boma’ concept safeguards livestock, enhances food security, and reduces lion killings. The programme’s expansion has led to an increase in crop yields, a reduction in predation, and fewer retaliatory lion deaths. Find out more about the programme and donate to support peaceful human-lion coexistence
WATCH: Find magic in Nyungwe NP, Rwanda. This national park hosts Africa’s most extensive protected tract of montane forest. Nyungwe is a verdant oasis and a biodiversity hotspot bursting with life. (01:02) Click here to watch
It’s 47°C at 5pm as we stand to attention alongside hundreds of other cross-border travellers as the Chadian flag is lowered for the day. The border post is strangely still and quiet for a moment, save for the rumble of scores of stationary, diesel-belching vehicle engines and the bleating of a herd of goats making a run for it across the sandy riverbed of the Logone, which marks the boundary between Cameroon and Chad.
Behind us is a 10-day trek through the length of Cameroon, marked by winching fallen trees off little-used, muddy forest tracks, bug-infested wild camping nights, and Ross going down with a bad case of malaria as we reached the northern frontier town of Merowe. That was followed by a bone-rattling, 250-kilometre, truck, bike and ancient Peugeot taxi-dodging hell-run, which took six hours driving more off-road than on; the last scrapings of tar littered with enormous potholes and wash-aways so deep that we had to drive the big Defender 130s in permanent high-lift mode to stop the jagged edges scraping their axles. Also behind us is a four-hour, pillar-to-post border crossing that would’ve been funny if we weren’t so hot, hungry and tired. The last thing we ate was a few freshly made, early morning mandazis (small doughnuts) that Sheelagh bought from a beautiful Cameroon lady swathed all in red as we lurched past her roadside stall after yet another gendarmerie (police) roadblock and all that goes with it.
After much paperwork-shuffling and passport-scrutinizing, we’re finally released from the clutches of customs officials to shouts of “Bienvenue au Tchad!” Ndjamena, the capital, appears like a mirage in the Sahel heat haze; modern glass-fronted buildings reflect the setting sun as thousands of commuters clog the roads, roundabouts and pavements – the noise is deafening and we get lost in the chaos. A friendly soldier flags down a motorbike taxi and leads our expedition convoy the rest of the way; it’s full dark and a massive relief when we finally roll to a stop in the relative quiet of a hotel’s grounds on the banks of the Chari River that flows into Lake Chad. We attack the menu like ravenous hyenas, swallow a couple of cold Galas and head for bed: showers, clean sheets and a struggling air conditioner – luxury after weeks of sweaty and dusty camping. Halala – we’ve made it to Chad!
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
Early the following day at African Parks’ country HQ, we’re greeted like long-lost friends by Cyril Pélissier, park manager for the Greater Zakouma Ecosystem and country director Monsieur Ahmat Siam. After a quick logistics briefing and shopping for much-needed supplies, we hit the road again – three dusty Defenders in a row with Shova Mike typically ahead on his bike (he’d left at dawn) – en route to one of this year-long journey’s most highly anticipated wildlife regions.
Greeted like long-last friends at Zakouma’s headquarters
Who would have thought that just south of the Sahara, west of the Nile and north of the Congo rainforests, in a remote corner of Chad close to the borders with South Sudan and the Central African Republic, would exist one of the most inspirational conservation success stories to come out of Africa, and the 17th destination of this Afrika Odyssey expedition?
Zakouma – jewel of the Sahel
Characterised by perennial river systems, floodplains and marshes, savannah, woodlands and seasonal wildlife migrations, the 350,000ha Zakouma National Park is a conservation miracle and something out of Olde Africa. Proclaimed in 1963, it is an essential water source in this harsh environment and home to an incredible array of wildlife. More than half of the world’s critically endangered Kordofan giraffe are found here, along with thousands of buffalo, tiang, Lelwel’s hartebeest, northern greater kudu, oribi, kob, Defassa waterbuck, roan antelope, Bohor reedbuck, lion, leopard, cheetah and hyena and many more species. Recently, black rhinos have been reintroduced, but Zakouma is most famous for its elephants’ story.
Once a stronghold for well over 4,000 elephants, by 2010, Zakouma had lost 90% to ivory poachers – many coming across the border from Sudan on horseback. Driven by the upsurge in demand for ivory and fuelled by civil wars, the gangs would often take out multiple family units at the same time; in just eight years, Zakouma’s elephants plummeted to around 450. Not only were they decimating the elephants and other wildlife, but the Janjaweed (‘devils on horseback’ as they were known) were also wreaking havoc on local communities. Traumatised and terrified, the ellies stopped breeding and bunched into a single mega-herd, their ears torn and ragged from racing through thorn scrub to escape the poachers, many of them still with AK47 bullets embedded in their bodies.
That same year, the Government of Chad invited African Parks into a long-term agreement to manage Zakouma, protect its remaining wildlife and re-establish stability for surrounding communities. In four years, poaching was virtually eliminated, and Zakouma became known as a place of safety, a source of employment and a service provider for residents. Best of all, the ellies started breeding again; once on the brink of local extinction, their numbers are expected to surpass 1,000 soon, and there hasn’t been a single elephant lost to poaching in the past seven years. What an incredible story of hope!
Zakouma’s elephant population will soon surpass 1,000
It hasn’t been easy, though. At Zakouma’s HQ, there are 13 framed photographs of Zakouma rangers who were killed by the Janjaweed, some shot whilst at morning prayers. It’s a sombre reminder of how tough the early years were.
But it’s not just about the mammals. Zakouma is a vital stopover and breeding ground for migrating birds. Tens of thousands of spur-winged geese, black crowned cranes, pelicans, Abyssinian ground hornbills, herons, storks, ibis and carmine bee-eaters congregate here, along with hundreds of birds of prey that at this time of year dive into the swooping, charcoal-coloured clouds of millions of red-billed queleas.
Spur-winged geese, knob-billed ducks, black crowned cranes, herons and egrets gather on Zakouma’s waters
Zakouma is also home to the largest number of North African ostriches, a subspecies that’s all but extinct in most of its historic range. It truly is a birders’ paradise – 398 recorded species, to be exact – and one of the largest RAMSAR sites in the world.
Zakouma rangers sign the expedition scroll
Heading for Camp Nomade, Zakouma’s eclectically simple but wonderfully exclusive tented camp on the edge of the Rigueik Pan, it’s fiercely hot. Brahim Arabi, the head guide, welcomes us with big bearhugs, saying, “Ah, Kingsley, you’re back! It’s a good time before the wet season begins; animals everywhere – this place is cooking! The red-billed queleas are here and the black-crowned cranes, the highest numbers ever. The Kordofan giraffe is multiplying, buffalo are in their thousands, and you’ll see lions.”
Kingsley and Zakouma head guide Brahim Arabi
Brahim can’t contain his excitement; he’s a great example of how African Parks has touched so many lives in such a positive way. “When I started here in 2016, I was just the tailor helping to sew tablecloths, napkins and uniforms for the tourism staff,” he continues. “Then, after two years, I shifted to become a waiter, and during the next three years, after I’d finished doing my table set-ups, I would read through the books in the stretch-canvas dining area and learn about the mammals and birds. African Parks saw my interest, so they sent me to Cameroon to learn English and then to South Africa for guiding and animal tracking training. Back in Zakouma, I developed good relations with many professional South African guides who brought guests. I am now one of the few accredited guides in Chad, and I thank African Parks for everything they’ve done for us; if not for them, we would have lost Zakouma and all our biodiversity.”
At this time of the year, at the end of ‘the dry’, the cracked, black-cotton soil and parched landscape sigh out for the rains. Drying river pools and pans like this one are the only water source for miles. As we’re greeted by the effervescent camp manager, Alice Paghera-Messager, we witness one of the most extraordinary spectacles we’ve ever seen. Bursting with biodiversity, it’s raw, wild Africa in all her glory, and this expedition is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to visit where few people go.
Just a few metres away, an ever-weaving tapestry of mammals and birds unfolds as far as the eye can see. Hundreds of antelope of every type graze placidly, a journey of at least 50 Kordofan giraffes seem to float through a vast haze of swooping queleas, and the air is filled with honking and hooting from thousands of cranes and geese, a trio of big bull elephants glisten with black mud and what appears to be 1,000 buffalo or more appear in the treeline and stroll down to the water’s edge, as marabou storks stalk about like undertakers. Behind camp, there’s the murmur of doves, barking baboons and the distant roar of lions.
Kordofan giraffe standing tall in Zakouma’s landscape
Under a brilliant star-filled sky that night, we reflect that this is where the dream of this conservation, community and culture-themed Afrika Odyssey journey first began. We’d been talking about it for years; Sheelagh and Kingsley walking and talking on the beaches of Zinkwazi about searching out stories of hope from across the continent for Africa’s remaining wild spaces and using a stick to scribble expedition names and mission statements in the sand. Then we met Leon Lamprecht, the then park manager of Zakouma, who introduced us to African Parks, and so the story grew and took shape. We are on our most excellent conservation-linked adventure seven years later.
Next morning, in the shade of a huge sausage tree overhanging the open-air dining area, we ask Alice, who’s spent three years running this remote, iconic camp, to list her five special memories: “First, it’s the people and how they quickly adopted me into the Zakouma family. Then the sounds: the mornings filled with the murmuration of millions of queleas literally like waves on the ocean; the hooting of thousands of black-crowned cranes flying in squadrons over the tents; the flapping sound of flamingo wings, the buzzing of bees in the kigelia (sausage) trees, the ever-present cry of the fish eagles and at night, the roaring of lions – sometimes right next to the tents. And the sounds of buffalo, hundreds of them passing close by. I’ll also always remember the musty mud smell of the Salamat River as it begins to dry up, the smell of the elephants and buffalo, the smell of life and death, the unmistakable sweet smell of the Kordofan giraffe, and the smell of the first rains bringing life to this vast floodplain. Fourth – the history and resilience of this beautiful place, the elephants feeling safe enough to breed again and bringing their calves to drink on the pan – a miracle of hope after so much persecution by the Janjaweed. Lastly, every single day, I’m reminded of what an incredible privilege it’s been to be part of this circle of life, not governed by the clock but by the nature that surrounds us, realising just how important ‘wilderness’ is for our inner happiness and contentment, uncontaminated by human voices and mechanical sounds. This reminds me of how lucky I am to have spent time in this pristine and unspoilt part of Africa.”
We are entranced by the spectacle of what we’re calling ‘Africa in the Raw’. Despite the unrelenting heat, there’s no doubt that we’re here at the best time of the year; as Zakouma dries up, the wildlife intensifies around the shrinking pans and pools. There’s much more to do, so we move our expedition base to Tinga Camp, a 1960s-style safari camp from where we explore the riverine bush and countless pools of the game-rich Salamat River and spend time with the Zakouma team at their earth-coloured, fortress-style HQ that harks back to the French colonial years.
The Zakouma team gather for a photo with the expedition members
Siniaka Minia – Chad’s newest park
However, to remain true to our mission to link all 22 African Parks-managed wildlife areas across the continent, we must also visit nearby Siniaka Minia, just west of Zakouma – number 18 of this expedition. It’s the youngest national park in Chad, with adjoining wildlife corridors and the Bahr Salamat Wildlife Reserve. It now makes up the massive 28,162km² Greater Zakouma Ecosystem, which African Parks has been mandated to manage.
It’s a long, dusty road for the hard-working expedition Defenders, winding through awe-inspiring inselbergs and mud-built villages with steeply thatched conical roofs, each with a top-notch that makes them look like a witch’s hat. Outside each homestead stands a gigantic, beautifully handcrafted clay-pot granary to store the sorghum and maize that make up the staple diet of this region. Men on horseback drive vast herds of cattle, goats and fat-tailed sheep, whilst groups of colourfully dressed, laughing women enjoy the daily chore of walking their donkeys ladened with containers to fetch water.
At the village of Malfi, whilst sitting with Yves Holma and his Siniaka Minia community team, the expedition map spread before us; the unbelievable happens – something we’ve been dreaming about after weeks of mind-numbing heat and sweat. A huge dust storm suddenly rises several hundred metres into the air, there’s a massive crack of thunder, the skies darken, the temperature drops, and soon we’re enveloped in wind-blown, ice-cold rain that has everybody sprinting for cover. “Run for it! Get in your cars now!” shouts Yves as he pushes Ahmat Youssoup, one of the community liaison officers, into the Defender’s passenger seat. “He’ll show you the way to the Samer basecamp in the middle of the Park. Go quickly before the road gets too wet.”
The excitement of the village camels is palpable as they frolic, kick up their back legs and rush to drink from quickly forming puddles in the road. A horse-and-cart driver strips off his tunic and stands with arms outstretched, a big smile on his upturned face. But just as suddenly as it starts, the storm is over. “Still too early for the big rains,” remarks Ahmet as we race into the dark, twisting and turning through the endless bush country to reach the Park’s HQ, where under a simple stretch of canvas near a small waterhole, we meet Guy Mbone, the instantly likeable Ops Manager and experienced conservationist, who speaks the local dialects and hails from Bangui in the Central African Republic.
He explains that Siniaka Minia was officially declared a national park six months ago, making it Chad’s fifth and largest national park and securing this region’s important wildlife migration corridors. When the rains come and Zakouma floods, this new park becomes their haven. Darren Potgieter, a South African bush pilot who played a role in the translocation of 900 buffalo to Siniaka Minia from Zakouma, adds, “You can see the encroachment from the air; if we don’t protect these wildlife areas, they will soon be lost to livestock and sorghum fields.”
Northern carmine bee-eaters gather in their hundreds at Zakouma
Later, Darren writes these words in the giant African Parks’ Scroll of Hope for Conservation that the expedition carries across Africa: ‘Welcome to the hot embrace of Siniaka Minia! May your footsteps echo with the resilience of the wilderness, and may your encounters with wildlife and communities inspire shared passion and commitment to preserve and protect.’
This Afrika Odyssey journey is not just about the wildlife; it’s also about joining forces with the community liaison teams, who are putting tremendous effort into assisting the villagers living alongside both Zakouma and Siniaka Minia. It’s not just about jobs – although they are now the largest employer in the region – it’s also about income generation and commercial community projects. Twenty-nine farmers’ organisations now produce vegetables, fruit, chickens, chebe (a natural hair moisturiser used by women of the Basara people in Chad and further afield), shea butter, desert date oil and honey.
The expedition team with community leaders from around Zakouma
Twenty-six schools attended by more than 2,400 children are supported with educational materials, stationery, furniture and school supplies. African Parks has also built three new schools, and as part of the environmental awareness programme, over 6,800 children visited Camp Dari last year, which has been set up in Zakouma for school groups. In the words of 13-year-old Ahamat Aradi from Goz-Djarat primary school, ‘Zakouma must keep the animals safe. We need them for future generations because if the animals disappear, humans will also disappear. And if we cut the trees, we will bring the desert here. If there is no rain, people will die because we will have nothing to eat.’
Anna Holgate hands out mosquito nets to momsSheelagh conducts an eye test using coloured beads and a needleChildren participate in the wildlife art competition
As it’s been throughout this expedition, we get involved in a chunk of community work at both Zakouma and Siniaka Minia: educational wildlife art competitions with the kids, malaria prevention education and life-saving mosquito nets for village mums, and eye tests and reading glasses for the elderly.
Later that day, there’s the symbolism of collecting water in the expedition calabash; at Zakouma, Cyril Pélissier is given the honour; at Siniaka Minia, it’s Guy Mbone’s turn.
Zakouma park manager Cyril Pélissier collects water for the expedition calabash
On our last night, Alice asks the expedition team who’ve travelled so hard and far to get to this distant, wild corner of Chad to list their favourite Zakouma memories. “It’s mindboggling; thousands of catfish in the bubbling pools of the Salamat, buffalo stuck in the drying mud with lions lazing on the banks just biding their time, Kordofan giraffe at every corner… this is a once-in-a-lifetime experience,” says expedition leader Ross.
Sheelagh, who flew doors-off in the small Savanna aircraft with pilot Nicolene de Beer on a black rhino monitoring flight, is amazed by the endless vistas of wilderness, especially the vast woodlands of Acacia Sayel (red-barked gum arabic trees) stretching to the horizon, and a birds’ eye view of the winding, luminous-green Salamat River, with thousands of crocodiles pockmarking its surface glowing yellow in the sunlight, and vast herds of buffalo and elephant with not a human being in sight. “Seen from the air, Zakouma is a giant, almost primaeval landscape,” she tries to explain.
One of Zakouma’s lions spot something intriguing in the distance
“For me, it’s the lions,” muses Shova Mike, who’s cycled much of the expedition’s route to Chad. “I’ve never seen such unusual sightings, plus the incredible bird life, and I want to see firsthand the great work being done here by African Parks. It’s been well worth the miles of pedalling.” Anna agrees: she’s astonished by the abundant bird life, especially the brilliant-coloured carmine bee-eaters in their hundreds diving and swooping from condominiums of nesting holes in the banks of the Salamat. Fiona loved the isolation and uniqueness of Camp Nomade. “It was as if we were the only people in the world, surrounded by a kaleidoscope of nature – roan antelope, reedbuck, waterbuck, kob, giraffe, hartebeest – and birds, birds, birds!”
Zakouma’s elephants are once again thriving
For Kingsley, of course, it’s the elephants, which are his favourite animal. “It’s inspiring that after all the years of suffering and killing for their ivory, Zakouma’s elephants are thriving again; a wonderful story of hope that makes this journey all the more worthwhile,” he concludes.
Too soon, our time in this extraordinary landscape that retains a powerful sense of what Africa must have been like a few centuries ago has to end. Cheerful workshop staff help fill up the Defenders’ jerry cans and drinking water tanks, check tyres, scrape the worst of the mud, and dust off the windows and headlights. Ahead lies a long journey deep into the Sahara to reach the next expedition destination, which we’re all extremely curious about, and the unbelievable Ennedi Cultural and Wildlife Reserve close to the border with Libya.
Further reading
Zakouma – a park returned to vibrant wilderness teeming with life, is a once-in-a-lifetime journey for travellers looking for safari adventure. Read more about travelling to Zakouma National Park, jewel of the Sahel, here.
A visit to Zakouma, central Africa’s last wildlife stronghold, means going back to old-school, authentic safari values. Read more about a safari to Zakouma here.
In 2019, over half a million flamingos were counted in Botswana’s Sua Pan. This is a remarkable increase from the last recorded count in 2009. This new tally, made possible by innovative use of aerial photography and machine learning, underscores the critical role of Sua Pan as a habitat for both greater and lesser flamingos. But the findings also highlight the need for better conservation efforts, particularly around maintaining adequate water supplies, as climate change poses a growing threat to these vital ecosystems. Christy Bragg explains.
Over 500,000 flamingos were gathered in the Sua Pan, the eastern pan in the Makgadikgadi Pans in Botswana, in 2019. How do we know this, since there has not been a published count of flamingos from the pan in the last decade, and the last count (in 2009) registered only 163,434? In June 2019, civilian scientist Mike Holding mounted a camera on his Cessna plane, jumped in and then flew transects systematically across the pan, capturing over 3700 photographs of little pink dots (which is what flamingos look like from 600m high up in the sky).
So, who was the poor soul who poured over the 3715 photographs and counted all the tiny pink dots? The counting was not done by some unfortunate postgrad trying to earn extra beer money. It was done by machine learning. According to a team of researchers from the University of NSW Sydney’s Centre for Ecosystem Science, machine learning was an accurate and far quicker way to count the dots. They found that machine learning was just as good as doing it manually, and confirmed this by comparing a small sample of photographs one of the researchers counted to the machine-learning counts. The results differed by only 1.4%.
Flamingos gathered in the Makgadikgadi Pans
The significance of the Sua Pan
The high numbers of feeding flamingos highlight the importance of Sua Pan as a critical feeding site for flamingos in southern Africa, for both greater flamingos and lesser flamingos (listed as Near Threatened by the IUCN). The Makgadikgadi Pans also rank in the top ten largest breeding sites in Africa, Europe and Asia for flamingos and form one of only five sites worldwide where lesser flamingos regularly breed. It also likely supports the largest breeding population of greater flamingos in Africa. In 1975, there were an estimated 1.7 million flamingos in these pans, so there is some concern about a decline in the population. We simply don’t know enough about flamingo population numbers. We need transparent and rigorous methods for estimating populations, and these need to be repeated regularly to detect trends.
The findings highlight that the Makgadikgadi system is of international significance for flamingos, which means that this system needs to be adequately protected. The area has some formal conservation status – the Makgadikgadi Pans are an Important Bird Area (IBA), and 44.7% of the area is protected as a wildlife management area. There is also a Nata Bird Sanctuary, a community-protected reserve at the mouth of the Nata River, and a flamingo sanctuary south of Sua Pan, protecting core breeding habitat. However, the authors point out a missing piece in the conservation puzzle – water.
The findings highlight the international significance of the Makgadikgadi system for flamingos
Conserving flamingos requires more than just a protected area
Flamingos need water. Their feeding and breeding depend heavily on the seasonal flooding of their habitat. Breeding is only triggered with sufficient flooding, and the flamingos rely on the emerging islands of mud and salt for nesting. Therefore, breeding success depends on rivers upstream of their breeding sites being in good condition and not being overutilised. This is something that is frequently overlooked, according to Professor Kingsford from the USNW University. There needs to be a recognition that sustaining river flows is very important and that currently, a lot of decisions around water management are made on an ad hoc basis, not considering the whole catchment. Even though it’s a national park, it takes more than protected area status to make the Makgadikgadi system function – it fundamentally relies on water.
Climate change is another burning concern for the flamingos. The models are not accurate enough to predict how rainfall will change. Higher temperatures might lead to increased evapotranspiration of the pans, reducing their habitat suitability for flamingos. This makes it even more crucial to ensure we buffer water supplies in rivers to help mitigate the looming impacts of this threat. Prof Kingsford even goes so far as to say it is more important to keep a closer focus on the water supply than to keep regular counts of the flamingos.
A lesser flamingo in the pans
AI for wildlife monitoring
Australia is already using drones and Artificial Intelligence (AI) to count waterbird colonies. AI is more accurate and saves resources, although it does require the capacity to store and analyse massive data sets. The next stage is to teach AI to detect more cryptic species in the environment. Since there has been such an advancement in AI training (take for example, the ability of AI to identify melanoma cells in skin tissue samples), it should only be a matter of time before it learns to distinguish and count other wildlife species within the background noise of more diverse habitats. Given the high rates of global biodiversity and habitat loss, the better we can understand how species respond to changes in the environment, the more empowered we will be to address these changes.
My upcoming Hwange safari with our Photographer of the Year winners has several layers of relevance for our mission to celebrate Africa and do good. One such layer is well-illustrated in our story below – the tenuous relationship between free-roaming male lions and those who kill them for fun and ego.
Each of our photographer winners gets to sponsor a research collar and follow the progress of that specific lion (via recent data, not a live feed). How awesome is that?
The collars are an essential tool to keep local rural people and their livestock safe from lions and to collect valuable research data to understand these magnificent creatures better. BUT collars cannot keep these big, craggy males safe from trophy hunters. The best way to do that is to blast that abhorrent industry off the planet by increasing tourism revenue so that trophy hunting loses relevance for local people. There are a few landholders in Hwange working towards this goal – read more in our story below.
Hwange safari, anyone? Or how about planning your next holiday by working with our safari experts (our advice is free). By choosing AG for your next safari, you fund our conservation media and so help us educate the world about the intricacies of life in wild Africa. Also, did you know that we donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level? YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
We can learn a lot from penguins: unrequited love and devotion to our partners, teamwork, enduring the toughest storms while foraging in the harshest conditions, and shared parenting (from incubation to chick rearing and feeding). However, the Southern African Foundation for the Conservation of Coastal Birds (SANCCOB) warns that food shortages are forcing penguins to venture farther for sustenance. Typically, parents alternate between foraging and babysitting, but the extended travel time now causes overlaps, leaving nests unattended and exposing eggs and chicks to predators and starvation. Scientists predict African penguins could face extinction by 2035 if we don’t act to protect the anchovies and sardines they depend on. Fortunately, SANCCOB is helping by artificially incubating and hatching eggs and hand-rearing chicks for release into the wild. And they, together with BirdLife SA, are working hard to put protections in place for these birds. But, if we don’t save their food, we’ll lose the penguins – and the lessons they teach us.
This week, we celebrate Hwange’s lion dynasties and highlight the threats to their legacy – see below. And we journey with Izak Smit to the heart of Busanga Plains. Check out the stunning gallery of pics from Ingrid Mandt in this travel diary – the first in a two-part series celebrating Zambia’s hidden gems.
This walking safari tracks the wise old elephant herds as they follow the Galana River through Tsavo National Park, Kenya. Sharing the elephants’ home on equal footing and encountering the famous maneless lions, gerenuks and hirolas of Tsavo will supersede any previous game-viewing experiences you’ve had. Stay in beautiful camps harking back to a bygone era, and explore the surroundings on game drives in the afternoons. The perfect balance between comfort and adventure.
Ethiopia – the Cradle of Humankind – 8 days – from US$2,475pps
This historic tour takes you on a journey to discover churches hewn from rock, World Heritage Sites, castles, ancient tombs, art, and archaeological artefacts. You’ll enjoy historical city sites, boat trips to see monasteries, Ethiopian cuisine and traditional entertainment.
Explore the historical sites of Axum, the ancient capital believed to be the resting place of the Ark of the Covenant, as well as Gondar and Lalibela.
Meet KM2: a magnificent super tusker of Tsavo, Kenya. KM2 was first identified as a tusker in August 2015 (although he was seen from the air many times before that). KM2 can be identified by the tear in his left ear and the scars on his lower right flank.
We have partnered with Tsavo Trust to save some of Africa’s last remaining tuskers. Tsavo Trust monitors and conserves the elephant populations of the Tsavo Conservation Area, specifically focusing on tuskers. An estimated 50–100 tuskers remain in Africa, of which at least eight reside in Tsavo.
Elephants with tusks that touch the ground are a natural rarity and they are under constant threat from poachers seeking ivory, and trophy hunters actively targeting tuskers (outside of Kenya).
We invite you to support Tsavo Trust by donating to their aerial and ground monitoring teams, who protect these magnificent elephants.
WATCH: 26 seconds of pure Kalahari bliss, as a litter of wild dog pups frolic and tumble while discovering the big wide world – and a few fortunate safari goers look on in wonder. Focus on a different pup each time you watch! (0:26) Click here to watch
There is a hidden gem in Africa that quietly beckons wildlife enthusiasts searching for an experience out of the ordinary. Busanga Plains, a vast mosaic of grassy plains in Kafue National Park, transforms into floodplains dotted with papyrus and lilies after the annual rains. The lush grazing lands that erupt attract diverse antelope species and large lion prides, delighting the travellers who have learnt this secret. Izak Smit and Inki Mandt, fortunate travellers who know this Zambian jewel well, embarked on a safari to celebrate the wildlife of this lush destination. Izak tells us of their journey in the first of a two-part travel diary.
A visit to the Busanga Plains – while not our first sojourn to this wonderland, which is familiar to us – met our wildest photographic expectations and satisfied our bush cravings.
Setting out on our journey from Namibia, we crossed into Zambia at the Katima Mulilo border post, navigating a swift but bureaucratic process filled with levies, taxes, and heaps of paperwork. Arriving at the bustling town of Mongu at sunset, we were briefly led astray by our GPS. Inki was less than amused when I had to engage 4×4 low range to get us back on track. We finally reached our overnight stop on Lake Makapaela, about 20 km north of Mongu, in the dark and rain. Lake Makapaela was a charming find with its white sandy beaches. We left early the next morning, en route to Kafue, after navigating a route notorious for its potholes, which cover about a third of the route between Mongu and Hook Bridge on the Lusaka road.
Returning to Kafue’s Busanga Plains brought back fond memories of my time as a helicopter bush pilot here from 2009 to 2011. I was delighted to find many old friends still in the area. Enroute to Busanga Plains, we camped at Mapunga Campsite and Mozhi/Bongololo Campsite, where we were fortunate to encounter some well-known male lions and a leopard. The Kafwala Rapids were a sight to behold, and the forests, with their magnificent trees, were mesmerising.
Having had our fill of tsetse flies, we headed to Busanga Plains. Reuniting with old friends and exchanging stories made my day. The guides and lodge managers, among the best in the world, shared a wealth of knowledge that made our trip truly special. We were fortunate to see almost all the lions that roam the plains during our stay. The first rains and overcast skies made the temperature pleasantly cool, and the lack of tsetse flies on the plains (they stick to woodlands) was a welcome relief. Visiting familiar spots like Kapinga Island and various lodges in the area evoked many cherished memories.
Leopard near Mapunga Camp, satiating its thirst
We spotted numerous lions, some with colourful names like Yaya, Savannah, Killing Machine, Princess, Nala, Vegga, and the Shumba Boys, all affectionately named by the guides and management.
The plains appeared much drier and more accessible than in my earlier days there. Back then, the wetlands required helicopter transfers between lodges; now, these transfers can be easily done by road. The stunning landscape, teeming with predators, trees, water channels, and diverse wildlife and birds, possesses a unique character and rhythm. Words cannot capture the feeling of becoming part of the plains’ all-encompassing biorhythm.
The lions enjoy a high prey density, often “wasting” by regularly abandoning their kills. This is a boon for the spotted hyenas, side-striped jackals, and vultures, including Cape Vulture, which are rare in the area.
Poaching and snaring were common back in 2009-2011, visible from the low-level flights I took over the park. However, since African Parks has taken over management of Kafue, the positive changes are evident.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? African Parks has been responsible for the management of Kafue National Park since 2022. Kafue became the 20th park in African Park’s portfolio of stabilised and rehabilitated protected areas across the continent. Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
Kafue has the potential to become a prime destination and a haven for the highly threatened wildlife in this region.
We left the Busanga Plains reluctantly, taking the well-maintained Western Bypass Road, and were surprised by a group of twelve wild dogs in hunting mode—a parting gift from Kafue as we made our way to Liuwa Plain National Park.
The lion Yaya’s sub-adult daughter contemplates murder on those pesky horsefliesThe Lufupa Channel near MusanzaLion Yaya’s son, George discovers that lechwe still taste better than car tyresA hyena feeling peckishA lechwe kill by the lion known as Killing Machine’s prideBusanga Plain’s future rulersAn older cub unleashes its fearsome power on the vultures of the plainsThanking mom for the mealA puku sentinel is always a good idea when on the plainsAn older cub being disciplined at the dinner tableA fitting send-off by Busanga Plain’s wild dogs just off the Western Bypass of Kafue
Further reading
Kafue National Park is Zambia’s oldest and largest national park – known for sweeping plains and wetlands, and abundant and unique wildlife. Read more about Kafue National Park here
Busanga Plains, Kafue, is brimming with wildlife, yet not overwhelmed by tourists. Read Irene Amiet’s travel diary from this Zambian safari spot. Read more about Busanga Plains, the jewel of Kafue here
This travel diary to Busanga Plains in Kafue National Park (Zambia) will have you contacting Africa Geographic to arrange your next safari. Read the travel diary here
Kingsley Holgate & his Afrika Odyssey expedition team are connecting 22 parks managed by African Parks. Read about their trip to Kafue NP. Read more about the Afrika Odyssey Expedition to Kafue here
Hwange National Park – Zimbabwe’s wild land of vast elephant herds and a haven for one of Africa’s largest populations of African wild dogs – is high on the list of must-visit safari destinations. But possibly Hwange’s most astounding drawcard is its charismatic lions, whose prides and coalitions play out an ongoing soap opera of power politics, warring factions, territory negotiations and legacy fortification.
Hwange is considered a Lion Conservation Unit by the IUCN, and its lions form part of a long-running lion monitoring project that aims to understand and conserve the lion population. For this reason, Hwange is known as one of the best areas in Africa to see lions in the wild. These lions are also well known for regularly preying on elephants.
Hwange is part of a massive open system stretching to Victoria Falls in the northwest and the Okavango Delta (and beyond) in the west. But as Hwange is an unfenced reserve, its free-roaming lions face many challenges. Illegal snaring, poaching, human-wildlife conflict arising from predation on livestock, the train passing through their territories and a glut of trophy hunting concessions bordering the national park all form part of the gauntlet run by these lions daily.
Hwange was also the home of Cecil the Lion – whose death by trophy hunting on Hwange’s neighbouring Antoinette Farm in 2015 became an irreversible blight on Zimbabwe’s tourism history. Two years later, Cecil’s six-year-old son, Xanda, was also trophy hunted on the border of Hwange. Zimbabwe’s trophy hunting industry again made headlines when dominant male Kakori was shot in 2018, and dominant male Mopane was baited and shot by a bowhunter in 2021 – both on Antoinette Farm. (Read more about how trophy hunting of lions has wrought tremendous changes on Hwange’s lion demographics and reduced their numbers here).
However, there is a light on the horizon. Several landholders in a former portion of Antoinette Farm are trying to change the fate of these lions. These properties have partnered with stakeholders to create the Silwane Conservation Area, and hope to transform the area’s focus from trophy hunting to photographic tourism. This conservation area will serve as a buffer zone for these iconic lions, and provide safe passage for animals moving in and out of Hwange.
Although the targeting of Hwange’s lions by trophy hunters cast a long shadow over the national park, it is still regarded as a top destination for seeing and photographing lions. Today, many of Cecil and Xanda’s descendants live on in the park, continuing their legacy and legend.
We look back at some of Hwange’s legendary past and present lions below.
Cecil, the former king of Hwange
Cecil, the regal lion of Hwange, who ruled over the Ngweshla area of Hwange
After trophy hunters killed the resident pride male, Cecil and his brother Leander formed a coalition that moved into the much sought-after area of Ngweshla in the national park. Ngweshla is prime real estate for Hwange’s lions as the grasslands hosts good numbers of buffalo, kudu, zebra and elephant. The area can support a pride of 20 or more lions. Cecil and Leander took over the pride known as the Spice Girls in 2008. After Leander was killed by the Askari coalition of males (a coalition including lions Judah and Jericho), Cecil was pushed out. Judah was later trophy hunted. Jericho and Cecil, both having lost their coalitions, formed a coalition, and the two took over the Ngweshla area.
Jericho, who formed a coalition with Cecil, is pictured here with collared lioness Kathy
In 2015, Cecil was shot by trophy hunter Walter Palmer with an arrow from a compound bow, wounding him. Palmer then tracked and killed Cecil the following morning – 10–12 hours later. Cecil was killed on Antoinette Farm, which is separated from Hwange by only a railway line. Before his death, Cecil had been much loved by visitors to Hwange for many years, and was a major drawcard for those visiting the area. After Cecil’s death, Jericho moved to the area around Hwange’s Kennedy Campsite, before dying of natural causes in 2016.
Cecil reads the wind
Mopane, ruler of Somadada and Guvalala
Mopane striding over his territory in the East of Hwange
Mopane was another dominant male of Hwange, who was dominant over two prides at the time of his death by trophy hunting. He was well known for his disdain for vehicles. Visitors were warned to keep their distance, and photographs of fleeing vehicles followed by a determined Mopane chasing them are plentiful. Mopane was dominant in the East of Hwange, ruling over the Somadada and Guvalala prides. He was in a coalition with another male lion, Seduli, and both lions were frequently seen by visitors to photographic lodges in Hwange. In August 2019, Seduli was lured from Hwange and trophy hunted. After Seduli’s death, Mopane mated with the two lionesses of the Somodada pride, producing 8 cubs. Sadly, two of these cubs were killed by a train while trying to cross the tracks.
Interestingly, Mopane appeared to have tolerated two sub-adult males in the Guvalala pride who were not his descendants. It would have been interesting to see how this dynamic would play out over the years. Mopane included Antoinette across the railway in his territory. Mopane was trophy hunted by a bowhunter in August 2021.
Mopane and his pride on a buffalo kill
Humba and Netsai – blood brothers of Hwange
Humba and Netsai
Well known to tourists to Hwange National Park, Humba and Netsai were brothers of the Nora pride, fathered by Seduli. Born one year apart (Humba in 2013 and Netsai in 2014), they later formed a coalition and were very fond of one another. The photogenic pair had been spotted together since 2018 and were well known for their tolerance of vehicles. The magnetic duo quickly became popular with tourists, for their bold demeanours and brotherly bond. They were unofficially dubbed “Zimbabwe’s National Treasures”.
They moved in after the formerly dominant male Bhubezi was displaced in 2018, and Humba mated with Cecil’s daughters. Humba and Netsai both sired several litters. In 2022 a trio known as The Baggage Handlers began making moves on the prized Ngweshla territory and, four months later, Humba and Netsai were ousted from their territory. They moved to a new area near Kennedy Campsite. They included the area where Silwane Conservation Area is situated today in their territory, as well as the greater Antoinette area and neighbouring trophy hunting concessions. They also chased Thys, a famous lion of the Guvalala pride, out of the Kennedy area. Netsai and Humba later killed all of Thys’s cubs.
The Baggage Handlers – a trio of lions, so named as they once raided the luggage of guests on the runway. The Baggage Handlers pushed Humba and Netsai out of the Ngweshla area
These handsome males delighted visitors in the area until late 2023, when Netsai disappeared. After his disappearance, news that Netsai had been trophy hunted began to filter to lodges in the area. The news of the breeding lion’s death devastated those who had admired him for such a long time.
Netsai catching some sunshine
After losing his partner Netsai, Humba showed a marked change in behaviour. Usually relaxed around people, he started keeping to thickets and often remained out of sight. As the only male protecting a pride with two sets of cubs, his situation remained precarious. He continued to patrol his territory, including Kennedy and Silwane.
In total, 20 of Humba’s cubs have survived. This includes 12 cubs sired with Cecil’s daughters and litters with Nobuhle, a lioness of the Spice Girls pride. Nobuhle’s progeny went on to join the Beks pride.
Humba, who until recent months, had been mating with females, had played a key role in maintaining the strong prides in this area of Hwange. However, he has not been seen for months. Sources on the ground say that Humba was trophy hunted in June 2024, and that his satellite tracking collar was handed in. No further information is forthcoming. The loss of Humba will likely devastate his pride, cubs and wards – who have also not been seen for some time. There is concern that, without Humba around, encroaching males (such as The Baggage Handlers, who have extended their territory) may kill his youngest cubs (five of his cubs are currently 11 months old – making them too young to disperse in Humba’s absence). There is also a fear that the lionesses of his pride could move out of the park into communal lands where they are vulnerable to human-wildlife conflict.
Humba became more of a loner after losing his partner NetsaiOne of the lionesses of Humba’s pride, along with a cub, on the railway line that separates Hwange from neighbouring concessions. Many lion cubs have been hit and killed by trains on this railway lineNetsai and Humba. The pair were popular with tourists who often sought out these photogenic males
The future of Hwange’s lions
Stumpy Tail, a lion of The Baggage Handlers coalition. The coalition has reportedly extended their territory into the space previously occupied by Humba and Netsai
Despite the challenges and hardships facing Hwange’s lions, their resilience and the efforts of conservationists offer a beacon of hope. The park remains a sanctuary where these magnificent creatures can continue their legacy, captivating visitors. Through ongoing conservation initiatives and a growing focus on sustainable tourism, Hwange National Park stands as a testament to the power of collective efforts in preserving one of Africa’s most iconic species for generations to come.
A lioness crosses the railway line between Hwange and a neighbouring concession to meet her cubsTwo young males of Hwange
Can an African safari bring healing? Aaron Gekoski heads to Zimbabwe to explore Hwange and Matobo National Parks to find out. Read more here.
Trophy hunters killed breeding lion Mopane – from Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park – in a mirror of the Cecil tragedy. Here’s how we told it when it happened
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Grass vs trees + Odzala, Africa’s + Big 5/apes in 1 safari
Shortly after the turn of the century, I and a group of adventurers boated the Zambezi River from source to mouth to raise funds for anti-malaria efforts in the region. It was one helluva adventure! During my research and preparation, I sought guidance from the legendary gent featured in our story below.
Kingsley shared sage advice with me, suitably camouflaged by the tongue-in-cheek banter I have come to love from this inspirational explorer. We never did find that promised calabash he stashed away in an island tree with greetings from fellow adventurers. Perhaps high waters washed it away, or maybe Kingsley’s GPS coordinates were impaired by technological bloopers. A while back, he proffered that his readings may have been tainted by a rum-fuelled celebration of life in Africa :-). Keep exploring my friend, thank you for being our pathfinder!
Our article below about grasses may interest those who judge elephants for threatening their personal ideology of an African landscape dominated by trees. “In Kruger National Park, for example, the expansion of trees is visibly impacting some animal populations.“
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Have you ever heard of an ant “death spiral”? This mesmerising yet grim spectacle occurs, amongst others, within super colonies of driver ants found in East and Central Africa. Picture this: a troop of millions, marching with military precision, reliant on the pheremone trail of their leader. The leader falters, loses a scent and veers off course, or perhaps an unexpected obstacle separates a portion of the colony from the rest of the troop. Chaos ensues. The followers double back and begin to loop endlessly, following the scent of the directionless ants in front of them, spiralling into a tight circle – and eventually entering into a hypnotic dance of death. Unable to find a way out, the ants keep circling until they finally collapse from exhaustion. An entire colony can be lost to this case of misled determination. For insects with such sophisticated social structures, it is baffling that one wrong turn can lead to a dizzying demise. The lesson I’ll take from this? Next time I find myself in a flat spin – I’ll take a step back, away from a spiral of chaos!
Below, check out the magnificent story from Kingsley Holgate’s Afrika Odyssey team on their journey through Odzala-Kokoua NP, and read our story on the incredible value of grasses in sequestering carbon.
Also, don’t miss the incredible footage from Kierran Allen of a Verraux’s eagle pair ‘herding’ a leopard through the Cederberg mountains in South Africa – at the bottom of our newsletter.
DID YOU KNOW?
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Go beyond the safari norm to explore remote areas off the beaten path. Join us to find western lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffalos, bongos, dwarf crocodiles, huge flocks of grey parrots and green pigeons, and other iconic wildlife species. See all of these specials in the forests, baïs and rivers of Odzala-Kokoua NP in the remote northwest of Congo-Brazzaville.
Big 5 + chimps + gorillas in Rwanda – 10 days – from US$6,860pps
This safari flattens three bucket-list items in one epic trip – in one country! From searching for the Big 5 in Akagera NP – one of Africa’s conservation success stories – to the forests of Nyungwe NP for chimpanzees and Volcanoes NP for mountain gorillas. What more could you ask for? Aside from seeing rare golden monkeys, a visit to the Kigali Genocide Memorial and more – all of which are also on offer during this safari.
We are always thrilled to hear happy tales from our clients! Recently, a father-and-son duo embarked on an unforgettable five-day adventure through Chobe National Park, Botswana and Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. From a breathtaking boat trip on the Chobe River, where they watched herds of elephants gather by the water, to exciting game drives with lion sightings and even more elephants – the trip was a thrill a minute. To top it off, the duo even took the plunge with an exhilarating bungee jump over magnificent Victoria Falls!
“We travelled to Chobe and Vic Falls and had a fantastic and well-organised experience. All pre-trip organisation from Nadia at AG was fantastic, and communication was smooth and aligned with our needs. All activities at Chobe were very enjoyable with very professional guides. And all the lodges we visited were very nice, with very competent and professional teams always ready to help.” – Joao and Miguel
WATCH: Incredible drone footage from photographer Kierran Allen of two Verraux’s eagles chasing a Cape leopard through Sandberg, in the foothills of South Africa’s Cederberg Mountains. (01:14) Click here to watch
When we picture efforts to combat climate change, trees often steal the spotlight. But what if the real climate heroes are right under our noses – or rather, under our feet? Enter grasslands, the overlooked powerhouses of carbon sequestration. Research reveals that these sprawling landscapes store carbon far more efficiently than trees, challenging the widespread belief that forests are always the best option for restoration. Should we be better prioitising the conservation of grasslands?
“They kind of look like caterpillars in the landscape,” says SANParks ecologist Corli Coetsee, describing the research plots near the Pretoriuskop Rest Camp in the southwest of Kruger National Park, South Africa.
These plots, each around 7 hectares (17 acres), are surrounded by firebreaks and are strung together so that, when viewed via satellite, they resemble giant segmented worms wriggling across the savannah. These plots are used to explore the effects of fire on the ecosystem. Some plots are burned annually, others every two to three years, and some during different seasons. One plot in each “string,” as the researchers call them, has not been burned in 70 years. The unburned plots and those burned during cooler conditions are increasingly encroached by trees.
Kruger’s research plots, surrounded by firebreaks, seen from above
Coetsee recently published a study in the Journal of Ecology that reveals a surprising finding: although the trees on these unburned plots do contribute to stored soil carbon, it has taken them 70 years to achieve the same levels as the grassy plots.
“What we showed is that it takes a very long time for tree-derived soil carbon to start equalling the soil carbon contributed by grasses,” she explains.
Comparison of two plots within the study site, at Shabeni, north-west of Pretoriuskop. The plot on the left shows a plot that undergoes annual burns, and the plot on the right shows a plot that has not been burnt.
This research highlights a critical yet often overlooked fact: undisturbed grasslands are vital in combating global heating. They sequester carbon not in towering trees, but in the roots of grasses and herbaceous plants known as forbs, which lock carbon within the topsoil.
Despite this, grasslands are frequently seen as empty spaces ripe for tree planting to meet global reforestation targets. However, not all spaces are suitable for forests. Earlier this year, University of Oxford ecologist Nicola Stevens and her colleagues published an article in Science warning that, of the more than 133 million hectares (328 million acres) planned for forest restoration in 35 countries under the African Forest Landscape Restoration Initiative (AFR100), 70.1 million hectares (more than 173 million acres) are located in ecosystems that are not naturally forested – primarily lightly wooded savannahs and pure grasslands.
Clumps of savannah grasses photographed during Uganda’s wet season
“This is greater than the area of France, indicating that tree-based restoration in Africa could cover vast areas of non-forest habitat,” they cautioned.
Coetsee echoes this concern. “People should be much more reluctant to plant trees in systems that are supposed to be open,” she argues. “These grassland systems are ancient; they evolved to be open, with sun-loving vegetation that effectively stores carbon underground where it’s safe from fires.”
The complexity and value of grasslands are often misunderstood. Many grassland plant species are long-lived but reproduce infrequently and are poor colonisers, says Susanne Vetter, an ecologist at Rhodes University. “Once you’ve destroyed grassland biodiversity, for example, through ploughing, planting trees, or similar actions, it’s really hard to get it back,” Vetter warns.
Fire plays an essential role in maintaining this biodiversity while also contributing to the accumulation of soil carbon, adds Vetter, describing how the roots of grasses and forbs die back after each burning, adding organic matter to the topsoil and increasing carbon storage. Charcoal fragments from fires also contribute to stable forms of carbon within the soil.
“Grasslands that are healthy keep incorporating more carbon,” she says. Fire also prevents the encroachment of woody plants—a growing threat as atmospheric CO2 levels rise.
Researchers like Coetsee refer to the latter as “CO2 fertilisation,” which accelerates the growth of native trees, turning them into “super trees” with larger roots and faster growth rates. This shift has tangible effects on wildlife. In Kruger National Park, for example, the expansion of trees is visibly impacting some animal populations.
“We’ve seen large changes in Kruger; some of the rare antelope like sable (Hippotragus niger) and reedbuck (Redunca arundinum) have seen their numbers decrease hugely,” Coetsee notes. “My gut feeling is that it has something to do with this shift from grassy landscapes to more closed, tree-dominated landscapes.”
Sable antelope numbers have decreased drastically in Kruger National Park, a possible side effect of increasing tree numbers
The impact extends beyond mammals. Chevonne Reynolds, an associate professor in the School of Animal, Plant, and Environmental Sciences at Wits University, has studied the effects of woody plant encroachment on common bird species in grassy ecosystems in South Africa, Eswatini, and Lesotho. She and colleagues, who recently published their findings in Global Change Biology, discovered that nearly 20% of the 191 species surveyed experienced population declines over 10 years.
Among the most affected were birds – vividly-coloured Orange River francolin (Scleroptila levaillantoides), and the tawny eagle (Aquila rapax), which is already listed as Vulnerable by the International Union for Conservation of Nature.
Reynolds and her colleagues predict that tawny eagle populations could decline by a further 50% within the next 20 years due to the loss of suitable habitat.
Since 2016, Reynolds has returned regularly to Eswatini’s eastern lowveld region, near the Lebombo Mountains, to measure bird diversity. While carrying equipment through the bush to do fieldwork was difficult back then, it’s now nearly impossible due to the increase in thick, woody vegetation.
“Just seeing the shift in the amount of woody biomass that now exists in those landscapes is really striking,” she says.
The 2018 National Biodiversity Assessment found that only 59% of South Africa’s grasslands now remain, but the condition of these surviving areas is unclear. In addition to being undervalued as carbon stores, most grasslands lie outside protected areas, making them vulnerable to conversion for agriculture and other land uses. Some conservation groups are working to change this.
Damian Walters, the Endangered Wildlife Trust’s regional manager for the African Crane Conservation Programme, works with landowners in the eastern Free State and other regions of South Africa to protect grasslands on their farms.
Vast grasslands on a cattle farm in the Free State of South Africa
These areas are vital not only for biodiversity, supporting species like South Africa’s three crane species, the wattled (Grus carunculata), blue (G. paradise), and grey-crowned (Balearica regulorum) cranes, but also for carbon sequestration.
Under South Africa’s national biodiversity stewardship programme, the Endangered Wildlife Trust has helped incorporate around 130,000 hectares (321,000 acres) of grasslands into the protected areas network. The organisation is also partnering with other conservation groups and landowners to develop carbon offset projects that leverage the carbon stored in grassland soils.
“In our grasslands, we don’t focus on above-ground carbon storage; our grasslands often burn, and they’re supposed to,” Walters explains. “So, we’re really focusing on the below-ground carbon stocks and seeing if we can enhance the amount of carbon stored in the soils through improved management, and then rewarding the landowner for that additional carbon in a way that aligns with the best ecological management of those systems.”
Grasslands support species such as grey-crowned cranes
The benefits of this approach are manifold.
“You’ve got livestock grazing, carbon being sequestered, and water catchments being secured,” says Walters. “It’s a way of funding [grassland conservation] work that would never happen without it.”
Grasslands may not have the towering presence of forests, but their impact on our planet is just as profound. As the world rushes to plant trees, we must not overlook the grasslands that have been storing carbon and maintaining biodiversity for millennia. By recognising and preserving these vital ecosystems, we can better protect our planet and ensure a balanced approach to conservation. It’s time to shift our focus from what’s above ground to what lies beneath.
With 15 African Parks-managed wildlife areas done and dusted, the sturdy expedition Defender 130s haven’t missed a beat. Moyo (Swahili for ‘heart’) and Isibindi (isiZulu for ‘courage’) have each clocked up 40,000km on this Afrika Odyssey expedition, tackling sand tracks, mud tracks, goat tracks and no tracks, ferry crossings, remote border posts in areas where few overlanders venture, torrential rain and record floods in the DRC. Now, it’s onwards to Odzala-Kokoua National Park in Congo-Brazzaville.
The humanitarian work in communities bordering these magnificent parks has made this adventure even more worthwhile: 23,000 moms and children are now safe from malaria; eye tests and 1,800 reading glasses have been distributed to mostly elderly people, and thousands of children have added fun and laughter through the expedition’s educational Wildlife Art campaign.
Ahead lies Chapter 3 of this quest to connect all 22 African Parks-managed national parks (20 million hectares under conservation across 12 countries) and uncover stories of hope for Africa’s wildlife, wild spaces and communities. We aim to reach the final seven in Congo-Brazzaville, Chad, Benin and Central African Republic. It will be the trickiest, most adventurous and somewhat risky chapter of this fascinating journey.
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
A sting in the tale
Veteran expedition members Mike and Fiona Nixon have joined this final stage. ‘Shova Mike’ as he’s known, is one of the Last Lions of the Cape Epic mountain bike race and will at a later stage attempt to cycle a specially-adapted Evo-bike across Chad’s Sahel and Sahara Desert to reach the World Heritage Site of Ennedi Natural and Cultural Reserve near the Libyan border.
But the first leg of our journey to Congo-Brazzaville through Botswana, Namibia and Angola is marred by a frightening event. Early one morning, whilst packing up the tent on the banks of the Cunene River that marks Namibia’s northern border, Sheelagh is stung by a Parabuthus Granulatus, a genus of large and highly venomous African scorpion that inhabits areas of low rainfall. Chillingly, ‘its stings are medically important and human fatalities have been recorded’. Her reaction is instantaneous and scary.
What unfolds is a nightmare of extreme pain, convulsions, paralysis and a host of other life-threatening conditions, a crazy 50km dash along broken dirt roads to seek medical help at Ruacana, and the unwelcome news that anti-venom is urgently needed. That’s followed by a high-speed 165km ambulance medevac to the Medipark hospital in Ongwediva, as expedition leader Ross races off in another direction to collect the anti-venom, which is miraculously located thanks to a network of friends and strangers who rally around to help. Thirty-six hours later, Sheelagh is out of immediate danger but unable to travel further north into areas where medical facilities will be scarce; she’s flown back to South Africa for further treatment and rest.
The rest of the expedition team head north through Angola, as always taking roads less travelled and wild camping each night. The expedition crosses the mighty Congo River at Matadi and a sliver of the DRC, dashes across the oil-rich enclave of Cabinda, up the coast to bustling Pointe Noire, then follows a zigzag road through the Dimonika Forest and savannahs to laid-back Brazzaville, so different from sprawling Kinshasa on the opposite side of the giant river.
A great, green barrier looms ahead – the vast tropical rainforests of the Congo Basin, the second largest in the world after the Amazon and spanning more than two million square kilometres across six countries. It’s one of Earth’s most biologically diverse and species-rich areas, delivering clean water, food and shelter to more than 75 million people.
Odzala-Kokoua is one of Earth’s most biodiverse regions
Finding the heart of Africa
This is not the expedition team’s first journey into the vast green lungs of Africa, and around the campfire one night, we get to talk about one of the craziest expeditions we’ve ever undertaken. Back in 2015, we set off to discover the geographic centre point of the continent and place a beacon at the very ‘heart’ of Africa deep in the rainforests of Congo-Brazzaville, close to the borders with Cameroon and the Central African Republic – a quest we grandly called the Heart of Africa Expedition. To make sure we got it right, the International Geographical Union (IGU) and the Department of Environmental & Geographical Science at the University of Cape Town applied the ‘centre of gravity’ method to determine Africa’s centre point, the same method used to determine the geographical centres of Australia and the United States of America.
It was a world-first discovery that nearly killed us. After a challenging 9,000km route, it turned into a physical and emotional nightmare of endurance to complete the final 17km on foot – and the longest seven days of our lives. Grabbing roots to pull ourselves on our bellies through muddy goo, pushing and pulling each other over and under giant, fallen trees with towering buttress roots, constant deep mud wading, falling into camouflaged holes, and building pole bridges to cross innumerable streams. Endless backtracking and detours to skirt impassable swamps, keeping an eye out for gaboon vipers, lowland gorillas, leopards and forest elephants. Continually wet, swatting, cursing and scratching, sweat bees crawling up our noses and into the corners of our eyes, enduring the pain from countless bee stings and army ant bites. Running out of food and barely sleeping, our exposed skin was shredded by razor-sharp vines that quickly became infected in the intense heat and humidity.
Kingsley Holgate with the Heart of Africa Expedition team, upon reaching the geographical heart of Africa in 2015
Then, with just 2km to go, our Ba’aka pygmy guides decided we’d bitten off more than we could chew and began turning back. It took considerable persuasion to convince them to continue, and in a daze of pain and exhaustion, we finally arrived at the GPS coordinates. The hands of the Ba’aka and the expedition team slowly screwed the Heart of Africa beacon into the roots of an ancient tree and, with lots of emotion, poured out the symbolic water carried from the Cradle of Humankind in South Africa. On the beacon was printed the flag of the Republic of Congo, the GPS coordinates, a small engraving of an elephant and the words, ’Geographic Heart of Africa – a tribute to Africa’s Elephants’.
We’re back in these beautiful, impenetrable rainforests nine years later. We wonder if the ‘Heart’ beacon is still where we placed it or whether it’s now been swallowed by the roots of the giant tree that became its home.
A magnificent leopard in Odzala-Kokoua
The rainforest wonderland of Odzala-Kokoua
Close to the border with Cameroon, we finally reach Parc National Odzala-Kokoua. It’s a great milestone – number 16 – of this conservation, community and cultural-themed expedition. Climbing wearily out of the mud-spattered Defenders, we’re instantly enveloped in clouds of butterflies – thousands of them like whirling, colourful confetti – and a cacophony of bird and monkey calls reverberate amongst the giant trees, assaulting our ears.
A rangy figure in mud-spattered jeans lopes towards us. It’s Jonas Eriksson, the very likeable park manager, who, along with his team, is responsible for Odzala-Kokoua, one of Africa’s oldest national parks designated in 1935. It spans a massive 13,546km2 of pristine rainforest in the Congo Basin and is recognised as one of the most botanically diverse areas in the world.
Finally arriving at Odzala-Kokoua NP
Ross’s godson Joshua Duffus and Jonas, knowing that we’d been living rough for weeks and that Fiona is just coming out of a bout of malaria, arrange a special surprise for us: a night of comfort at the beautiful Lango Lodge and even better, we have it all to ourselves. Fluffy towels, big mozzie net-covered beds with cotton-count sheets to die for, wooden decks overlooking the baï (forest clearing) for sundowners, and – can you believe it – Sanjay, the chef who we’d first met in St Tomé many years ago, is there to welcome us. In this isolated spot in the middle of the Congo rainforest, he serves up a sumptuous three-course meal, including a perfectly cooked rack of lamb! Early the following day, we’re greeted by the sight of huge herds of forest buffalo coming down to the baï to drink, reminiscent of scenes from a classic African safari. Unlike the Cape buffalo we know so well, the forest buffalo of the Congo basin are smaller, with swept-back horns to help them navigate the dense undergrowth. Their reddish-brown colouring is beautiful in the early light of dawn.
A platform overlooking one of Odzala-Kokoua’s baïs
The travel fatigue is banished, and we’re eager to explore the park’s forests, swamps, and patchworks of savannah, which we’re told are home to around 100 mammal species. On a forest walk, we catch sight of a family of forest elephants feeding and rumbling contentedly in the dappled green light. Sometimes referred to as pygmy elephants, these critically endangered, smaller cousins of Africa’s savannah elephants only grow to around 2.5 metres at the shoulder – savannah elephants are almost 50% taller. But sadly, Josh tells us that ivory poachers highly prize their slender, straight tusks as they’re considered more valuable and better to carve into trinkets and ornaments for the Asian market.
But, as always on this Afrika Odyssey journey, there are stories of hope. Odzala-Kokoua protects the largest forest elephant population in Central Africa. Thanks to excellent African Parks management since partnering with the Congo-Brazzaville government in 2010, their numbers are stable and growing as new individuals take sanctuary in the park again.
A forest elephant in Odzala-Kokoua
Returning to our simple expedition base camp – dusty tents and bedrolls, dented enamel plates and battered chairs around the campfire – it’s back to tuna pasta and braai meat bought in Brazzaville as Jonas shares his life story with us. He’s a true man of the forest, and with his Scandinavian roots, we nickname him the ‘Forest Viking’.
“I was just one-and-a-half years old when my Swedish missionary parents brought us to a remote mission station in the Congo – it was still Zaire in those days,” Jonas recalls. “Those were some of the best years of my life. We lived with a tribe called the Lolongo, and at a young age, I learned to speak perfect Lingala. My twin brother Micael and I hunted, fished and camped in the forest with our African friends – wild, carefree and full of adventure! It was a great occasion when, every few months, the riverboat would bring letters from home; my dad would read them aloud, and every night, our mum made us lie on our backs to show her the soles of our feet so that she could check for Jigger worms. When we were a little older, our parents realised that us two boys had ‘gone bush’, so they sent us to a small, very strict mission school of only about 50 kids, some 3,5 hours away by plane.”
Then it was off to Stockholm University in Sweden where, quite naturally, Jonas studied biology and, in particular, the bonobo (pygmy chimpanzee) of which little was known. Once qualified, he was soon back in the Congo, where he took to living in the rainforests he loved while researching bonobos. “It was a tough life, and during the war years, my only means of transport to and from my study site was an ancient 1950s Swedish bicycle with a big back wheel hub with ball bearings, which I had to lubricate through a grease nipple. I only had a kit bag and small tent; it was a fascinating life and would take days of riding on my own and camping wild to get to HQ to hand in my reports.”
Jonas’s fluency in Lingala was of great help during the expedition’s Rite to Sight outreach workChildren take part in the wildlife art competition
The Forest Viking and his rangers join in the expedition’s community work, starting with malaria prevention education and long-lasting mosquito nets for pregnant women and mums with children under five years of age – the ‘silent killer’ is rife here. The school kids love the educational Wildlife Art programme, and of course, there’s the expedition’s Rite to Sight work, which provides eye tests and reading glasses to the elderly. It’s a lot of fun and so worthwhile, and Jonas’s vast knowledge of local languages and cultures proves indispensable. We also learn that the park has initiated six successful income-generating projects alongside vegetable gardening and bee farming, and education, healthcare, infrastructure and apprenticeships support over 12,500 community residents every year.
Later back in the rainforest, Jonas explains that the narrow, single-plank walkway we’re on is better than a broader path, as the ellies step over it rather than on it. And so, ‘walking the plank’ one behind the other, with little forest elephant tracks visible in the mud alongside, we reach a small, crystal-clear stream. “This is where I pitched my tent and slept last night – it’s one of my favourite places,” says the Forest Viking with a grin as he adds rainforest water to the symbolic expedition calabash.
Dubbed the ‘Forest Viking’, park manager Jonas adds water to the expedition calabash
Just a short distance away in the Imbalanga Baï, we see what we’ve been hoping for – a young silverback western lowland gorilla. Odzala is home to around 7,500 of this critically endangered species, which is under severe threat from diseases such as Ebola as well as the illegal wildlife trade for pets and bushmeat. In 2020, the Congo government reaffirmed their partnership with African Parks and incorporated the Lossi Gorilla Sanctuary; more good news is the gorilla and chimpanzee populations have stabilised after the last Ebola outbreak and are now growing thanks to effective security and lots of community engagement. “They’re totally wild and unhabituated – that’s why adventurous travellers so love this place,” Jonas tells us. “That, plus the other wildlife – bongos, the tiny Bates pygmy antelope, giant forest hog, forest-adapted spotted hyena, golden cat, Guereza colobus and other primates, and of course the forest elephants, buffalo and other species. And twitchers love it too; over 440 bird species are found here.”
Guereza colobuses in the parkA slender-snouted crocodile perches over the inky watersOdzala-Kokoua is home to 7,500 western lowland gorillas
Walking through a shady canopy of giant trees, we reach Camp Imbalanga – the park’s ecotourism lodge – wonderfully intimate with just four safari tents and an elevated chilling area overlooking the forest. The super-friendly staff from nearby communities endorse the expedition’s Scroll for Conservation, as does South African Grant Leaity, who’s staying at the camp with his family. He writes: ‘What a surprise to visit this remote park and discover the phenomenal conservation and community development work, especially bringing communities into the programme’s centre, not only through training and employment but also by direct contributions to community projects. This is one of the cornerstones of Odzala’s success and gold dust in a remote location, where national development projects often don’t reach.’
Odzala-Kokoua’s team
We’d love to stay longer exploring the rainforest magnificence of Odzala-Kokoua but this Afrika Odyssey expedition needs to be forever on the move. Then we receive a message from Sheelagh; she’s recovering well from her near-fatal Parabuthus scorpion encounter and is itching to rejoin the expedition.
So, in the three Defenders, we continue north, cross the Sangha River on the logging ferry, and then travel by boat into the Central African Republic as Sheelagh flies in from South Africa. The Zen of Travel is on our side, and the moving parts all come together. We meet up at old friend Rod Cassidy’s Sangha Lodge. It’s excellent having Sheelagh back with the team – still a bit battered but all smiles again. It also allows us to spend more time with forest elephants at Dzangha Baï, one of their favourite haunts.
Forests elephants in Dzangha Baï
It’s a huge privilege and a magnificent experience to observe nearly 100 of these lovely creatures at close quarters; their hides are a kaleidoscope of colours from the multi-hued mud of the rainforest, ranging from chocolate brown to red, orange, pink and white. There’s lots of trumpeting and squeals, the calves play boisterous games of tag and we laugh at the comical sight of ellies on their elbows with bums in the air, burying their trunks deep in the watery pools to suck up vital minerals. But it wasn’t always such a peaceful scene; during the height of CAR’s civil war in 2013, 26 forest elephants were gunned down in Dzangha Baï in just two days by a heavily armed gang of poachers. Thankfully, those days are over.
Ahead lies a long push through Cameroon’s forests and northern badlands to reach Chad, where African Parks manages Zakouma National Park, Siniaka Minia Wildlife Reserve and Ennedi Natural and Cultural Reserve in the Sahara Desert. There’s a palpable mind shift in the expedition team; the going will be even tougher from now on, along unknown routes into the heat and volatility of North Africa.
The expedition team gather on the Sangha River
Further reading
A sojourn in Odzala-Kokoua NP brings Simon Espley face to face with a paradise of forest elephants, western lowland gorillas & forest baïs. Read about Simon’s journey here.
Travel in Africa is about knowing when and where to go, and with whom. A few weeks too early/late or a few kilometres off course, and you could miss the greatest show on Earth. And wouldn’t that be a pity?
Trust & Safety
Guest payments go into a third-party TRUST ACCOUNT - protecting them in the unlikely event of a financial setback on our part. Also, we are members of SATSA who attest to our integrity, legal compliance and financial stability.
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level.
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Want to go on a leopard-seeking safari? Browse our African safaris on offer here
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+ Big 5/apes in 1 safari
