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From our CEO – Simon Espley
Does anybody remember the days when we had to harness a blend of gut feel, experience and skill, with a touch of luck, to find animals in national parks and reserves?
When we would discuss the night before, which tracks to take come sparrow, for various considered reasons? When we listened out for alarm calls, watched prey species posture and stopped often to identify birds and wait for dung beetles and Matabele ants to cross the track. When the journey was the goal and the pace was relaxed. We would often spend days without a notable sighting, but the process was fun, and success would buoy us and fuel days of searching.
These days, visitors to our protected areas open their sightings app, select the sighting of choice and join the queue of impatient, irritated lemmings before rushing off to the next notification. I wonder how satisfying that experience is for app users, or if it’s just another layer of modern-day stress …
The demand for authentic safari experiences grows, and we are now taking bookings for 2027 and 2028.
But in Ethiopia’s city of Mekelle, these often-maligned scavengers are performing an indispensable service to the community. Each year, residents generate over a thousand tonnes of meat waste. Instead of rotting and releasing greenhouse gases, nearly half of it is consumed by hyenas, vultures and other urban scavengers roaming the city.
The result? Over 1,000 tonnes of carbon emissions avoided annually, and roughly $100,000 saved in waste disposal costs. It’s an unexpected partnership: people and predators sharing space in a working system that benefits both. While hyenas are often feared or persecuted elsewhere, here they are tolerated as part of the city’s ecological fabric.
This week, we journey into Namibia’s vast deserts with traveller Anthony Young, losing yourself in the stark beauty of one of Africa’s most haunting landscapes. You can also dive into our Photographer of the Year Week 6 gallery, and discover malaria-free safari options for Big 5 adventures without the risk.
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
INCREDIBLE PICS
Here are our top pics for Week 6 of Photographer of the Year, as chosen by our judges! Enter & win a chimp-trekking safari to Nyungwe, Rwanda
DESERT SAFARI
Traveller Anthony Young explores Namibia’s deserts, from Hoanib to Sossusvlei, revealing stark landscapes, unique wildlife and remote camps
MALARIA-FREE
Want to embark on a malaria-free safari in South Africa? Big 5 wildlife, diverse landscapes and luxury experiences await. Explore our top malara-free safaris
Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas
Art safari in the Big 5 Timbavati – 7 days
Whether you are a passionate beginner or a seasoned creator, this unique art safari offers the chance to hone your skills with professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls. Soak up the atmosphere of the Big-5 Timbavati Private Nature Reserve in the Greater Kruger, South Africa and channel it into artistry! 6-12 September 2026 – only 2 spots left!
Okavango Delta and Vilanculos bush & beach safari – 12 days
An epic pairing of authentic bush camp and seaside luxury. This bush-and-beach escape begins in the Okavango Delta with game drives and mokoro excursions, led by expert Bushman guides in a predator-rich wilderness. Then, you’ll ease into barefoot bliss in Vilanculos, with white-sand beaches, warm ocean swims, and sunset dhow sails.
Elephant IR2, estimated at 40–45 years old, is a thrilling new addition to Africa’s elite super tusker ranks. His symmetrical, inward-curving tusks meet the rare ground-touching threshold, placing him among the continent’s last remaining giants. Still one of Tsavo’s more elusive bulls, little is known about his temperament, with sightings few and far between. Yet his extraordinary tusks and quiet emergence make him a tusker to watch.
Africa Geographic has partnered with Tsavo Trust to help protect these iconic elephants. With only 50–100 tuskers left in the world, at least twelve of them in Tsavo, their survival hangs in the balance. Naturally rare and relentlessly targeted by poachers and trophy hunters (outside Kenya), tuskers need constant protection.
Support Tsavo Trust through our Guarding Tuskers campaign. Your donation helps fund vital aerial and ground patrols to safeguard these magnificent animals.
Have you entered Africa Geographic’s Photographer of the Year 2026 yet? The competition is in full swing, with an extraordinary prize on the cards: a journey into Rwanda’s Nyungwe National Park, where misty rainforest, chimpanzees, colobus monkeys and forest adventures await. Press play, step into the forest, and imagine your own story unfolding there, then enter for your chance to turn your photography into the trip of a lifetime. (04:37) Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2026 is open for submissions. The overall winner, runners-up, and their partners will journey to Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda, staying at the newly built Munazi Lodge, the only lodge inside the park. Expect chimpanzee trekking, canopy walks high above the forest floor, waterfall hikes, and encounters with black-and-white colobus monkeys in one of Africa’s most biodiverse montane forests. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2026 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 16 February 2026 to midnight on 7 May 2026. Judging will take place from February to June, and the winners will be announced in June.
Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week
Anthony Young set out across Namibia on an Africa Geographic safari that combined long road transfers, light aircraft hops and remote desert camps. From the Skeleton Coast to Hoanib, Damaraland and Sossusvlei, Anthony’s account offers a glimpse into the magic of Namibia, from desert-adapted wildlife, to stark landscapes and desert adventures. Experience the magic as Anthony recounts his travels below:
Into the desert
Getting to Namibia is not a trivial exercise. By the time I landed in Windhoek, after a (very) long-haul flight from Australia and the usual airport logistics, I had already decided that whatever lay ahead had better be worth it.
The journey into Namibia slows you down. Long before the desert camps, the country begins to shift your sense of scale. Distances stretch, colours flatten, and the air dries. By the time I reached Windhoek, I already had the sense that this would not be a conventional safari. Windhoek turned out to be a good start. Clean, orderly, and with a noticeable German influence, it is not what many expect of an African capital. It sits in a basin of low hills, with tidy suburbs climbing the ridges. From a lookout above the city, I watched a late afternoon storm roll in, dramatic enough to remind me I was not in Australia anymore.
From there, the journey pushed north and west, through towns and into Etosha’s wide openness, before eventually reaching the coast and then the desert beyond. The transition is gradual but unmistakable. Vegetation thins. The landscape changes steadily: less vegetation, more open space, and eventually, proper desert.
Coast, wind and cold water
The drive to Henties Bay marked a shift into Namibia’s coastal desert. The terrain flattened, then lifted again into low dunes, before giving way to a stark shoreline where the Atlantic presses into a cold, grey horizon.
This stretch of coast feels remote. Fishing villages, long beaches, and a steady wind define the place. I spent a day on the beach south of town. Grey sea, grey sky, and just enough breeze to keep things comfortable.
Swakopmund, further south, is a different proposition. German architecture, decent restaurants, and a slightly surreal feel given its location between ocean and desert. From here, a harbour cruise at Walvis Bay delivered the expected marine life – pelicans landing on the boat within minutes, and seals hauling themselves on deck as if they owned the place.
No whales or dolphins on this particular outing, but the seal colonies and birdlife were more than sufficient.
Swakopmund
Into the desert by air
Flying inland to Hoanib in a small aircraft is quite an adventure. The planes are small, the air can be lively, and you are very aware of both. That said, the views make it worthwhile. Hoanib Valley is a remote desert destination tucked into a hidden valley on the banks of the ephemeral Hoanib River in Kaokoland, northwest Namibia.
From the air, the landscape looks like it has been broken apart and rearranged. Ridges, dry river systems, and isolated mountains, with almost no vegetation holding things together. When rain does arrive, it moves with purpose.
Hoanib Valley Camp
Hoanib Valley Camp sits in one of these dry river systems, in a narrowing valley between rocky ridges. The camp itself is well set up, with raised structures to handle occasional water flow and a layout that makes the most of the surroundings.
From the moment I arrived, the focus shifted to desert-adapted wildlife.
Following the riverbeds
Game viewing here follows a different rhythm from traditional savannah safaris. Wildlife concentrates along the dry riverbeds, where underground moisture allows trees and shrubs to survive.
With my guide, William, we drove these sandy channels and came across springbok, giraffe, and desert-adapted elephants. The elephants are smaller than those in more fertile areas, but clearly well-suited to the environment.
Giraffes moving along the riverbed in Hoanib Valley
We watched a herd dig into the sand to reach the damp soil beneath. Calves rolled in it, adults fed, and the whole group moved slowly along the riverbed. We were close – within twenty metres – and largely ignored.
Giraffes showed similar adaptations. Slightly different posture and movement, but the same reliance on the river systems.
Around camp, the pattern continued. Gemsbok, springbok, and the occasional baboon moved through, all tied to the limited water and vegetation available.
Camp life, done properly
The camp experience at Hoanib is defined by space and quiet. Guest tents are well spaced, and the atmosphere is unhurried. Meals are taken overlooking the riverbed, and staff maintain a relaxed but attentive presence.
Guides are central to the experience. William, as a guide, knew his ground. In a landscape that initially looks empty, he was able to point out tracks, behaviour, and patterns that would otherwise go unnoticed.
Exploring dunes on foot in Hoanib Valley Camp
Evenings are simple. Sundowners in the dunes, followed by dinner back at camp. The setting does most of the work. Wind moving over sand, fading light on the ridges, and the occasional movement of animals in the distance.
Sundowners in the dunes
Damaraland – more rock than anything else
From Hoanib, I flew to Damaraland, a rugged, scenic region in the northwest of the country, situated between the Skeleton Coast and Etosha National Park. The shift is noticeable. Less enclosed than Hoanib, more open, with rocky hills and broad plains.
Anthony enroute to the next adventure
On the drive from the airstrip, we encountered a solitary bull elephant almost immediately, scratching itself against a tree and throwing sand over its back. Close enough to feel the grit when the wind picked up.
Damaraland Camp is well designed, blending into the surroundings with thatched structures and open communal areas. Here, the experience shifts slightly from pure wildlife viewing to a broader appreciation of the landscape.
Wilderness Damaraland Camp
Looking closer
In Damaraland, I spent more time on foot. Walking with my guide, Job, revealed details that are easy to miss from a vehicle.
At first glance, the terrain appears lifeless. But closer inspection shows otherwise. Plants that seem dead carry faint signs of life. Small birds move between bushes. Tracks in the sand tell recent stories.
The geology is also worth noting. Iron-rich rock gives the landscape its colour, and occasional sandstone formations break up the landscape. It is not a place that reveals itself quickly, but it does eventually.
Twyfelfontein, Damaraland
Game drives here are less about numbers and more about context. Animals are present, but you have to work for it – and when you find it, it is well worth experiencing this unique desert-adapted wildlife.
Elephants in Damaraland
Effort where it counts
One of the standout moments in Damaraland was a bush breakfast set on a rocky hill. Arriving before sunrise, I found a full setup prepared by camp staff – tables, hot food, and coffee, all overlooking a wide valley.
A bush breakfast prepared on site by the team
As the sun rose, the light revealed the scale of the landscape.
Evenings in the boma offered a different atmosphere. The original campsite, now used for outdoor dining, creates a communal setting around a fire. Staff shared stories and sang traditional songs, adding a cultural layer to the experience.
Sossusvlei – scale and sand
The final stage of the journey took me south to the Namib Desert and Little Kulala, in the Sossusvlei region, within Namib-Naukluft National Park.
Dead camelthorn trees in Sossusvlei
The dunes are large. Very large. Big Daddy, in particular, rises over 300 metres and dominates the area. The red sand, white clay pans, and clear blue sky make for a strong visual contrast.
Deadvlei sits below, with dead camelthorn trees standing where water once reached. It is a well-known site, and for good reason.
Gemsbok in SossusvleiSossusvlei’s otherworldly dunes
A comfortable base in the desert
Little Kulala offers a higher level of comfort without losing connection to the landscape. Spacious units, private plunge pools, and open-air sleeping areas allow for both privacy and immersion.
Bush dinners at Little Kulala
Wildlife moves freely through camp without much concern. Gemsbok passed within fifty metres of my verandah, followed later by jackals doing their usual rounds.
Activities here extend beyond drives. ATV rides across the desert offer a different perspective, covering ground quickly and revealing subtle terrain variations.
Exploring the desert on an ATV
A hot air balloon flight offered the most comprehensive view. From above, the desert becomes a series of patterns – dunes, valleys, and isolated rock formations. The scale is difficult to grasp from the ground, but clear from the air.
Dinner is served, in conjunction with the hot-air balloon tripHot-air ballooning over the desert dunes of Sossusvlei
Final thoughts about Namibia
Namibia is not about high-density wildlife viewing. If that is the objective, there are other places that deliver more consistently.
What Namibia offers instead is space, scale, and a different kind of safari. Desert-adapted wildlife, varied landscapes, and camps that fit into their surroundings. The desert strips things back. What’s left is land, light and life.
Elephants traversing the tracks of Hoanib Valley
The guides are key. Without them, much of what makes this environment interesting would be missed. For me, the desert camps were the highlight. Hoanib for its wildlife, Damaraland for its texture and culture, and Sossusvlei for its scale. It is a country that rewards patience. Not everything is immediately obvious, but once you start to see how it works, it becomes very engaging. Namibia rewards those who are willing to travel slowly and look closely. It is not about ticking off sightings. It is about understanding place. And once you adjust to that, it becomes difficult to leave.
Western Namibia is a land of heat, sand, sea and remarkable biodiversity surviving against the backdrop of harsh but stunning scenery. Learn more about the land of ochre here.
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter and more inspiration for your African safari.
From our CEO – Simon Espley
Many moons ago, Lizz and I took a 3-month sabbatical to traverse Southern Africa in my trusted Landy Defender, the 31-year-old vehicle I still drive today.
We mixed it up during this soul-food odyssey, alternating between campsites and lodges. One leg of that journey that created a bookmark in my mind was finding our way from a remote bushcamp on the Mwaleshi River in Zambia’s North Luangwa National Park to Mfuwe, the entrance town for South Luangwa National Park.
This was before mobile phones and Google, so we navigated off paper maps, verbal advice and a rather dubious hand-drawn map by the lodge manager in North Luangwa, showing where to cross the Luangwa River. The Luangwa River crossing was particularly edgy because the exit point on the far bank was unclear, and I could not walk the route beforehand because of deep water and many hippos and flatdogs (crocs). But cross we did, with thumping hearts, a gurgling diesel engine and water sloshing around inside the Landy.
This epic journey was paused many times by herds of elephants blocking the way, drainage lines where the only way across was wobbly, makeshift bridges made of stacked mopane poles, and a few wrong turns where the bush tracks petered out. We finally made it to Mfuwe in the fading light, some 240km and 10 hours later, exhausted but elated. As the tiny town appeared through the dusty windshield, Shania Twain belted out ‘Looks like we made it’ (You’re still the one) on the cassette player. Some years later, that was the theme song for our wedding ceremony.
African journeys create memories that shape our lives.
Safari njema, good people.
Pygmy hippos are the ghosts of West Africa’s forests: rarely seen, mostly imagined, and slipping silently through dense rainforest under cover of night.
With fewer than 3,000 left, camera-trap sightings are rare, and in-person encounters almost unheard of. In fact, researchers who had studied them for 16 years had never seen a wild one in the flesh. So, when a recent expedition to Côte d’Ivoire not only encountered a mother and calf in Taï National Park, but filmed them for 30 uninterrupted minutes, it was a major step forward in understanding a species that has long eluded direct observation. More importantly, the sighting supports ongoing efforts using tracking collars and even dung-detecting dogs to better understand this elusive species. In conservation, moments like these turn guesswork into real understanding, and that’s where the most valuable work begins.
This week, our judges reveal their standout picks from Photographer of the Year Week 5, while new research in Kruger unpacks declining lion numbers and rising poaching pressure. We also explore the sustainable safari revolution, and why your travel choices can make or break Africa’s wild spaces.
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
FAB PHOTOS
The top photos for Week 5 of Photographer of the Year 2026 are here, as chosen by our judges! Enter to win a chimp-trekking safari to Rwanda
KRUGER LIONS
New survey of Kruger lions reveals declining populations, poaching pressure, and habitat-driven density shifts in a key Southern African conservation stronghold
SUSTAINABLE SAFARIS
What makes for a responsible safari? Discover how the right kind of safari can protect wildlife and support local communities, with tangible conservation benefits
Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas
Maasai Mara specialist photographic safari, Kenya – 9 days
Fancy a guided photographic safari in Kenya’s Maasai Mara? Join award-winning photographer Arnfinn Johansen on this exclusive safari for four guests. Highlights include guided game drives with an experienced Maasai guide in a modified photographic vehicle and accommodation at Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp. Departure Dates: 20-28 November 2026
Kenya’s Super Tuskers – 9 days
Journey to Kenya’s spectacular Tsavo and Amboseli in search of the great tusked elephants that define Africa’s vast open landscapes. Alongside meaningful time with these gentle giants, you will seek out Tsavo’s famous maneless lions, the extraordinary gerenuk, the hirola (the world’s rarest antelope) and a rich array of other wildlife. Witness hippos and crocodiles from a glass-fronted underwater chamber at a crystal-clear spring, enjoy the option to sponsor orphaned elephants, and stay alert for the elusive, rarely seen striped hyena. Time spent with tuskers is an investment in your soul.
AG safari guests and honeymooners Jill and Darryl from the USA went on a Rwandan expedition to Volcanoes National Park, spotting gorillas and golden monkeys along the way:
“We rate pre-trip and overall trip experience 10/10. All transport was smooth sailing, and we were thrilled to have Nelson as our guide the entire trip. He was amazing, so lovely, smart, and accommodating. Can’t speak highly enough about him. Our accommodation was lovely. Being in such close proximity to the beautiful gorillas was a dream come true.”
From near collapse to one of Africa’s great conservation comeback stories, Akagera National Park is thriving again. On Rwanda’s eastern edge, lakes, papyrus swamps and open savannah now support the full Big 5, alongside one of Central Africa’s largest protected wetlands. Watch the story unfold and discover where to stay, from the serene Ruzizi Tented Lodge to the wild, unfenced Karenge Bush Camp. (06:46) Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2026 is open for submissions. The overall winner, runners-up, and their partners will journey to Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda, staying at the newly built Munazi Lodge, the only lodge inside the park. Expect chimpanzee trekking, canopy walks high above the forest floor, waterfall hikes, and encounters with black-and-white colobus monkeys in one of Africa’s most biodiverse montane forests. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2026 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 16 February 2026 to midnight on 7 May 2026. Judging will take place from February to June, and the winners will be announced in June.
Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week
Kruger National Park remains one of the most important strongholds for African lions in southern Africa, forming the core of the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area. This cross-border system allows lions to move between South Africa, Mozambique and Zimbabwe, maintaining genetic diversity and supporting regional populations.
Yet new survey results from the northern Kruger indicate a population under increasing pressure. The recently released results of an assessment of lions in the Nxanatseni South region, conducted in 2024 by Endangered Wildlife Trust, show uneven densities, evidence of ongoing poaching, and patterns that mirror earlier warning signs from surveys further north.
Researchers identified individual lions by their unique whisker spot patterns, allowing more accurate population estimates using spatial capture–recapture methods
Accurate population estimates
Large carnivores such as lions occur at low densities and require large territories and abundant prey. This makes them particularly vulnerable to human pressures such as poaching. Monitoring their numbers is therefore central to conservation planning.
Previous park-wide surveys estimated 1,803 lions in Kruger in 2015. However, those estimates relied on call-up methods, where recorded prey distress calls are used to attract lions. Over time, lions can become habituated to these sounds, reducing the method’s reliability.
The 2024 survey instead used spatial capture–recapture, a method that identifies individual animals and estimates population size statistically. This shift improves accuracy and allows comparisons across studies.
Counting Kruger’s lions
Field teams drove more than 10,000km across the 4,482 km² study area between July and September 2024, recording lion sightings and photographing whisker-spot patterns to identify individuals. The Nxanatseni South region includes the Olifants, Letaba, Phalaborwa, Mahlangeni and Mooiplaas sections of the park.
Whisker spots are unique to each lion, functioning like fingerprints. By identifying individuals and recording repeat sightings, researchers can estimate how many animals went undetected. This is the basis of spatial capture–recapture, which accounts for incomplete detection in wildlife surveys.
Lions younger than one year were excluded because of high mortality at that age, ensuring estimates reflect more stable components of the population.
The final dataset included 182 confirmed detections of 74 individual lions.
Survey area (Nxanatseni South) shown in dark green. The area is divided into five management sections – Mooiplaas, Mahlangeni, Letaba, Phalaborwa, and Olifants – covering a total of 4,482 km². (Endangered Wildlife Trust, 2025)
Revelations on Kruger’s lions
The study estimates approximately 144–155 lions older than one year in Nxanatseni South, with a density of about 3.5 lions per 100km².
Lion distribution was uneven across the landscape. Higher densities occurred in areas such as Mooiplaas and Letaba, where productive soils support large herbivore populations. These prey species – including buffalo, zebra and kudu – form the foundation of lion survival.
Lower densities were recorded in western sections near the park boundary. These areas are dominated by mopane woodland and lie close to human settlements, where poaching and human-wildlife conflict are more likely.
The study also found that lion density declines with distance from water, although the effect was relatively weak. In savannah ecosystems, water availability influences herbivore distribution, which in turn shapes predator presence. In this case, widespread natural and artificial water sources may reduce that dependency.
The population appears demographically stable, with a sex ratio of approximately 2.2 females per male and an average home range of about 341 km².
Higher lion densities occurred in areas where productive soils support large herbivore populations
Evidence of ongoing pressure on lions
Although the survey did not directly measure poaching rates, it recorded clear signs of mortality linked to human activity.
Five study lions were confirmed poached within the survey area, with additional incidents reported along the western boundary and in neighbouring Mozambique.
Poaching in this region takes two main forms. Bushmeat snaring, intended for other species, can unintentionally kill lions. Targeted poisoning is also used to eliminate predators or harvest body parts for trade. Both have increased in parts of northern Kruger over the past decade.
These pressures are concentrated near park boundaries, where access is easier and conflict with surrounding communities is more frequent.
Comparison with the northern survey of lions
The 2024 findings build on a 2023 survey of Nxanatseni North, which used similar methods. That earlier study estimated a much lower density of about 1 lion per 100 km² in the northern section.
The contrast between the North and the South is significant. Lions in the northern region occupy larger home ranges – about 700km² compared to 341km² in the south – indicating lower prey availability and more dispersed resources.
Water also plays a stronger role in the north, where it is more limited. This leads to a tighter clustering of prey and predators around water sources.
Together, the two surveys show a clear gradient within northern Kruger: higher densities and smaller ranges in the south, declining towards the drier, more resource-limited north.
Lions in Nxanatseni South occur at an estimated density of 3.5 individuals per 100 km², with numbers shaped by prey availability and habitat quality
What this means for conservation
Kruger’s lions are not a single uniform population. Their numbers and behaviour vary across the landscape in response to habitat quality, prey availability and human pressure.
The Nxanatseni South survey confirms that some areas still support relatively robust populations. However, it also highlights persistent threats, particularly along park boundaries.
The report concludes that “the ongoing lion poaching pressure is cause for concern” and calls for strengthened anti-poaching measures, increased engagement with local communities, and continued monitoring.
Regular surveys are essential to detect trends over time. Without them, declines can go unnoticed until they become difficult to reverse.
Taken together with the earlier northern survey, the message is consistent. Kruger remains a critical stronghold for lions, but the pressures affecting the species are increasing, unevenly distributed, and already measurable on the ground.
Along Kruger’s western boundary, lower lion densities reflect the combined pressures of poaching, human proximity and mopane-dominated habitat
Reference
Govaerts, A., Roodbol, M., Mthethwa, L.P., Nicholson, S., Roxburgh, L., Gopalaswamy, A.M., & Elliot, N.B. (2025). A population assessment of lions in the Nxanatseni South region of Kruger National Park (South Africa): Technical report on a lion survey conducted in 2024. Endangered Wildlife Trust. (Survey available upon request from EWT)
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter and more inspiration for your African safari.
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Hyenas aren’t typically associated with a sweet tooth. Bone-crushers and carrion connoisseurs, yes. But honey?
A group of researchers recently observed striped hyenas raiding a beehive. One hyena even trotted off with a full honeycomb! Long known as opportunistic feeders, these widely distributed hyenas already dabble in fruit, insects and the occasional watermelon. But honey is a surprising new addition to their menu. Scientists suspect striped hyenas may retain sweet taste receptors, unlike their spotted cousins. Honey offers more than just sugar: it’s packed with moisture, protein-rich larvae, and antimicrobial goodness. A clever snack in harsh, arid landscapes.
This week, we examine an intriguing concept: Could lab-grown embryos save Africa’s rhinos? We explore how cutting-edge science is unlocking new genetic lifelines for one of the planet’s most threatened mammals. And if you’re planning your first African safari, our step-by-step guide shows when to book, where to go and how to secure the experience of a lifetime. Finally, don’t miss another incredible week of entries from Photographer of the Year 2026.
Yours in wild adventure,
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
TOP PICS
The top photos for Week 4 of Photographer of the Year 2026 are here, as chosen by our judges! Enter to win a safari to Nyungwe, Rwanda
RHINO TECH
Scientists are using lab-grown embryos and genetic technology to help restore diversity in populations of endangered rhinos
Plan your first African safari with expert tips on when to book, where to go, and how to secure the best wildlife experiences
Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas
Classic Botswana Big 5 safari – 10 days
This iconic Big 5 safari explores three of Botswana’s most striking landscapes: the arid Central Kalahari, with its desert-adapted wildlife; the lush Okavango Delta, with its waterways and seasonal floodplains; and the wildlife-rich Chobe River, where elephants and hippos gather along its banks. Expect luxury accommodation, exceptional guiding, and remarkable wildlife encounters in spectacular settings, revealing how the presence and absence of water shape life across Botswana’s wilderness.
Malaria-free Big 5 safari in South Africa – 9 days
Discover two of South Africa’s most spectacular malaria-free reserves on a classic Big Five safari, starting in Marataba within Marakele National Park with guided game drives, bush walks and riverside relaxation, before continuing to community-owned Madikwe Game Reserve, a conservation success known for thriving wildlife, expert guiding, seamless transfers and luxurious, family-friendly lodges. This safari is ideal for families and first-time safari goers
How do we keep the leopards of the Lowveld safe? By helping them make it across busy roads unscathed…
The Ingwe Research Program’s Road Ecology Project is working to prevent fatal wildlife collisions along the R40 highway near Greater Kruger, South Africa, by mapping roadkill hotspots and monitoring underpasses. Their research proves that strategically placed culverts provide critical, life-saving infrastructure for apex predators.
Recent surveys revealed 960 successful wildlife crossings through culverts by 17 different species in just three months. Notably, leopards safely used these culverts for 78 crossings in that period.
Join AG and help protect leopards. You can support Ingwe’s critical work through our Spots on the Line campaign. You can help fund essential camera traps, field logistics, and enhanced crossing infrastructure: keeping leopards roaming free.
WATCH
Three of our safari experts have been recognised on Condé Nast Traveler’s 2026 Top Travel Specialists list, a testament to decades of deep, on-the-ground African expertise. What inspires the extraordinary journeys they craft? From their favourite wild places to the stories that shape each itinerary, Ramona, Stef and Christian share what makes an Africa Geographic safari truly unforgettable. If Africa is calling, this is where your journey begins. (17:45) Click here to watch.
Our Photographer of the Year 2026 is open for submissions. The overall winner, runners-up, and their partners will journey to Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda, staying at the newly built Munazi Lodge, the only lodge inside the park. Expect chimpanzee trekking, canopy walks high above the forest floor, waterfall hikes, and encounters with black-and-white colobus monkeys in one of Africa’s most biodiverse montane forests. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2026 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 16 February 2026 to midnight on 7 May 2026. Judging will take place from February to June, and the winners will be announced in June.
Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week
Scientists achieved horse pregnancies using embryos created entirely in laboratories and transferred after freezing – a process that could be beneficial for the conservation of rhinos.
Horses provide a crucial research model because rhinos share similar reproductive biology and embryo characteristics.
Assisted reproductive technologies could help move genetic material between isolated rhino populations without translocation.
Cryopreservation allows sperm, eggs and embryos to be stored long-term, preserving genetics beyond an animal’s lifetime.
Researchers hope to produce white rhino calves from lab-created embryos as reproductive science advances.
Groundbreaking advances in lab-grown embryos are opening a new frontier in rhino conservation by allowing scientists to safeguard and expand the species’ fragile gene pool. By perfecting complex reproductive technologies in horses – rhinos’ closest domestic relatives – researchers are building the genetic tools that could help secure the future of one of Africa’s most threatened megafauna.
When a team of researchers recently achieved pregnancies in horses using embryos produced entirely in the lab and transferred after freezing, it signified a leap in assisted reproductive technologies to support genetic diversity in rhino populations.
Inside the science of lab-grown embryos – and what it could mean for rhinos
Researchers collected eggs from live and euthanised horses, matured them in the laboratory and fertilised them using intracytoplasmic sperm injection (ICSI). The resulting embryos were cultured to the blastocyst stage, frozen, thawed and transferred into recipient mares, demonstrating that the full laboratory-to-pregnancy process can be performed in South Africa.
The deeper significance of the achievement, which took place in late 2025, lies in the complex chain of technologies required to make it work, and how those processes are now being refined with conservation in mind.
The research team from University of Pretoria and Hemmersbach Rhino Force during the embryo transfer procedure
The horse provides a useful model for developing reproductive technologies intended for rhinoceroses. Both animals belong to the mammalian order Perissodactyla, which includes odd-toed hoofed mammals.
Because of this relationship, eggs and embryos from horses and rhinos share similar characteristics and respond to similar laboratory conditions during embryo culture.
“The horse is the closest domestic relative of the rhino belonging to the same order,” explains Rhino Force’s veterinarian Dr Janine Meuffels-Barkas. “Oocytes and embryos have similar characteristics and requirements in the in vitro embryo production process.”
Working with horses also allows researchers to refine techniques more rapidly. Domestic animals are more accessible and can be handled repeatedly, which makes it possible to test protocols and optimise laboratory procedures before applying them to endangered wildlife.
“After the success of in vitro embryo production in horses, we plan to test our protocols in rhinos and adapt where needed. We have already successfully conducted egg aspirations in more than 40 females,” says Meuffels-Barkas. “We plan to improve the detection of the stage of the female’s reproductive cycle to identify the correct time for embryo transfer.”
Meuffels-Barkas says the team hopes to repeat all processes successfully in white rhinos to produce live calves from in vitro produced embryos.
The potential of assisted reproductive technologies has already been demonstrated in efforts to rescue the northern white rhino. Scientists working with the BioRescue consortium have successfully produced laboratory-created embryos using eggs collected from the last surviving females, Najin and Fatu, and frozen sperm from deceased males. These embryos have been cryopreserved and are intended for future transfer into southern white rhino surrogate mothers. While a live birth has not yet been achieved, the work has shown that rhino embryos can be created outside the body, providing a possible pathway to revive a functionally extinct subspecies.
The team in the field with a white rhino
Assisted reproduction in the conservation toolkit
Conservation strategies for rhinos currently rely heavily on anti-poaching efforts, habitat protection and the management of protected populations. Assisted reproductive technologies add a complementary set of tools.
Techniques such as artificial insemination and embryo transfer allow genetic material to move between populations without transporting the animals themselves. This can help maintain genetic diversity in populations that are geographically isolated.
“Assisted reproductive technologies allow us to enrich isolated wildlife populations with new genetics without the necessity of moving animals and facing all the logistical and adaptation problems associated with translocation,” says Meuffels-Barkas.
Genetic diversity is a major concern for rhinos. When populations decline sharply, they can experience a genetic bottleneck – a reduction in genetic variation caused by a dramatic drop in population size.
White rhinos experienced such a bottleneck in the late 1800s when hunting reduced their numbers to fewer than 100 individuals. The present-day population descends from those survivors, meaning the gene pool is already limited.
The success of the procedures will one day boost genetic diversity within rhino populations
Why horses require a different fertilisation method
In many mammals, embryos can be produced through conventional in vitro fertilisation, where sperm and eggs are combined in a laboratory dish. Horses present a particular challenge because standard IVF rarely results in successful fertilisation.
For this reason, Intracytoplasmic Sperm Injection (ICSI) has become the preferred method for producing equine embryos in vitro. The technique allows embryologists to bypass the biological barriers that normally prevent sperm from fertilising the egg under laboratory conditions.
The procedure is technically demanding. It requires specialised equipment, highly trained embryologists and carefully optimised culture conditions that allow embryos to continue developing outside the body.
According to Meuffels-Barkas, one of the most important breakthroughs was establishing the laboratory conditions required for embryo growth.
“The in-vitro embryo production, including the ICSI procedure as well as identifying the correct media and protocols to grow the embryo to the blastocyst stage were the biggest breakthrough,” she says.
One advantage of laboratory embryo production is the flexibility it introduces to reproduction. Eggs and sperm can be collected at different times, fertilised in the laboratory and the resulting embryos frozen for future use.
Cryopreservation plays a key role in this process. Biological material such as sperm and tissue samples can be stored in liquid nitrogen at −196 °C, a temperature that effectively halts cellular activity while preserving viability.
Postmortem collection of reproductive material expands the value of these archives. If eggs or sperm remain viable after an animal’s death, they can still be used to produce offspring.
This ability to preserve genetics beyond an animal’s lifetime is particularly important for conservation.
CryoVault – building a genetic archive for rhinos
The work also connects to Hemmersbach Rhino Force’s CryoVault project – a biobank dedicated to preserving viable biological material from African rhinoceroses as a form of long-term “genetic back-up”.
Since 2018, the CryoVault team has been collecting and cryopreserving semen and other biomaterials from rhinos during routine wildlife management procedures such as dehorning or ear-notching, when animals are already immobilised. To date, viable semen samples from more than 40 free-ranging and game-farmed black and white rhinos have been preserved, alongside tissue and blood samples.
The programme has since expanded to include female genetics. Using ovum pick-up techniques, researchers have collected eggs from more than 40 female white rhinos as part of a collaboration with the University of Pretoria to produce rhino embryos through assisted reproductive technologies.
The team during the ovum pick up
By storing sperm and other biological material, and potentially embryos in the future, in liquid nitrogen at −196 °C, the CryoVault effectively creates a long-term genetic reservoir. These preserved samples could one day be used to strengthen genetic diversity in rhino populations through artificial insemination, embryo production and embryo transfer.
The hurdles still facing rhino reproduction
Although the technology works in horses, several scientific hurdles remain before it can be applied successfully to rhinoceroses.
Researchers must first learn how to culture rhino embryos reliably in the laboratory. Even small differences between species can affect how embryos respond to culture conditions.
Another challenge is transferring embryos safely into surrogate females. Embryo transfer requires precise timing within the female’s reproductive cycle so that the uterus is ready to support implantation.
Monitoring that cycle in wild or semi-wild rhinos remains technically difficult. Researchers must also account for the long rhino gestation period, which lasts about 16 to 18 months.
Despite these challenges, progress is continuing. The team plans to test the refined laboratory protocols developed through equine research in rhino oocytes collected going forward.
The long-term objective is to produce rhino calves from embryos created outside the body – extending the role of reproductive science in safeguarding the species’ future.
Reproductive science can safeguard the future of rhinos
Further reading
The rhino Cryovault – frozen in time: If all the money, time, blood and sweat fail to save our wild rhinos, Hemmersbach has a solution. The rhino Cryovault stores repositories of rhino DNA, gametes, and tissues, preserving them indefinitely. Read more here
Rhino Rewild – is this the most critical wildlife conservation undertaking of our time? Simon Espley attended the pioneer stage of a visionary project to translocate 2,000 farmed rhinos into the wild. Here’s how it went down
Can rhinos survive climate change? Unable to cope well with prolonged periods of extreme temperatures, rhinos are particularly vulnerable to the increasing heat associated with climate change. Read more here
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
Today I am a proud man. Three of our safari experts have been recognised by the prestigious Condé Nast Traveler as 2026 Top Travel Specialists. This elite crew of travel aficionados are the flag-bearers of our industry, so vital in raising standards and service levels.
As is the case with all of our safari experts, Christian, Stef and Ramona have lived and worked in Africa for most of their lives and craft experiential African safaris, with love.
Travel in Africa is about knowing what, when and where to go and with whom – for the ultimate safari experience. A few weeks too early/late or a few kilometres off course, and you could miss the Greatest Show on Earth. And wouldn’t that be a pity?
OUR MISSION is to offer a more conscious and meaningful way to travel. It’s for curious, passionate explorers who seek responsible ways to enjoy Africa’s extraordinary biodiversity and meet her people.
Through our mix of tailor-made safaris, conservation journalism and bespoke donations, we shine a spotlight on authentic Africa to foster celebration and understanding.
Our business practices are aligned with our ethics, and we work continuously to have a positive impact on Africa, our home.
In the face of AI slop, algorithmic abuse, and paid campaigns clogging our screens, we need all the help we can get on our chosen path: authentic, original stories and safaris. Thank you, Condé Nast, for recognising our efforts!
Leopards are famously adaptable, slipping through forests, deserts and city edges across Africa. But in South Africa’s Cape Floristic Region, they’ve taken adaptation to another level.
The leopards of the Cape are smaller, tougher and genetically distinct from other African leopards. A new whole-genome study reveals that Cape leopards have been isolated for around 20,000 years, evolving in a rugged landscape where prey is smaller and scattered. The result? A unique lineage of leopard shaped by mountains, fynbos and survival in one of Africa’s most extraordinary ecosystems.
This week, we examine a new Serengeti study showing that impalas living near large, high-infrastructure lodges carry higher stress levels. The lesson is clear: lodge choice matters (we can help with that!). In landscapes built on wildlife movement, low-footprint camps, careful placement and strong environmental planning are essential.
We also tackle a classic safari debate: When visiting Victoria Falls, which side is best, Zimbabwe or Zambia? And of course, our Photographer of the Year weekly gallery returns with another spectacular collection of images from the continent.
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
OUR PHOTO PICKS
Our choice of photos for Week 3 of Photographer of the Year 2026. You can win a safari to Nyungwe NP, Rwanda
LODGES AND IMPALAS
A recent study finds Serengeti impalas are more stressed near higher-occupancy lodges
Zambia or Zimbabwe: We discuss the merits of each side, so you can make the most of your Vic Falls safari
Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas
Victoria Falls & Chobe – 7 days
This safari visits two of Africa’s most popular safari meccas: the iconic Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe and Chobe, Botswana’s most popular national park. Enjoy an activity every day, from river cruises to game drives, a helicopter flight over Victoria Falls and, for the more adventurous, bungee jumping and river rafting – and so much more!
South Luangwa, Victoria Falls & Lake Malawi safari – 13 days
Explore the majesty of the mighty Zambezi River and Victoria Falls, and then head into the heart of the raw wilderness of South Luangwa National Park, Zambia – the birthplace of walking safaris and one of Africa’s leopard hotspots. Your last stop is Nankoma Island on Lake Malawi, where you’ll enjoy sun-soaked adventure and ultimate relaxation.
Our safari guest Todd from the USA went on a dream East Africa safari to Rwanda and Kenya:
Outstanding East Africa experience! “AG organised an outstanding East African experience for me, my wife, and two friends. They set us up with great guides, lovely accommodations, and most importantly, incredible natural history experiences. Seamless travel. And when we wanted to make a last-minute change, they were right there to accommodate us in a timely manner. 6/5 rating!”
This 10-minute documentary from the Greater Serengeti Conservation Society reveals the urgent challenges impacting one of Africa’s most iconic ecosystems: including population growth, climate change, and the vital role of the Mara River. Watch now to see what’s at stake and how we can make a difference. (09:42) Click here to watch.
Our Photographer of the Year 2026 is open for submissions. The overall winner, runners-up, and their partners will journey to Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda, staying at the newly built Munazi Lodge, the only lodge inside the park. Expect chimpanzee trekking, canopy walks high above the forest floor, waterfall hikes, and encounters with black-and-white colobus monkeys in one of Africa’s most biodiverse montane forests. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2026 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 16 February 2026 to midnight on 7 May 2026. Judging will take place from February to June, and the winners will be announced in June.
Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week
Tourism keeps protected areas running, but a recent study reveals a trade off. In Serengeti National Park, impalas living near high-infrastructure lodges had higher stress levels than those near lighter-footprint camps – even when no tourists were present. The message is direct: in some cases, the infrastructure itself is part of the problem.
Tourism sustains many of Africa’s protected areas. Entrance fees, accommodation, and related services generate funds that support conservation management, research and anti-poaching efforts. Globally, protected areas receive an estimated eight billion visits each year and generate around USD 600 billion in tourism revenue. In many developing countries, this income is essential for maintaining biodiversity.
At the same time, tourism brings infrastructure. Lodges, camps, roads and other facilities are built to accommodate visitors. When development expands faster than ecosystems can absorb, wildlife can be affected. A recent study published in Global Ecology and Conservation from Serengeti National Park in Tanzania examined whether tourism infrastructure itself influences the physiological stress levels of wild animals.
The research focused on impalas (Aepyceros melampus), a common antelope species widely distributed across eastern and southern Africa. Impalas are considered a useful indicator species for studying human disturbance because they respond physiologically to environmental change. By measuring stress hormones in impalas living near different types of tourist accommodation, researchers assessed how tourism infrastructure may affect wildlife even inside a protected area.
Tourism growth in the Serengeti
Serengeti National Park covers about 14,700 km² and supports one of the world’s most diverse wildlife ecosystems. It is home to millions of ungulates, including wildebeest and plains zebra, and large predators such as lions, cheetahs and hyenas.
Tourism in the Serengeti has expanded rapidly in recent years. According to park records, permanent accommodation facilities increased from about15 in 2014 to around 50 in 2024, with a further 25 facilities under development. Non-permanent campsites also increased, rising from 98 sites in 2014 to 218 sites by 2024.
Previous research has shown that tourism infrastructure can alter wildlife behaviour. In the Serengeti, lodge construction done without sufficient planning has already been linked to changes in the movement patterns of the wildebeest migration. Other studies elsewhere have shown animals avoiding areas with tourism infrastructure or changing behaviour near tourist roads.
This is not the first warning sign. UNESCO and IUCN recently raised concern over proposed expansion of tourism infrastructure in Serengeti National Park, including sharp increases in lodges and permanent tented camps, while their 2024 reactive monitoring work also reviewed developments such as the Fort Ikoma golf course, the proposed Mugumu airport and additional lodge projects. The wider concern is cumulative impact – especially where infrastructure growth begins to squeeze habitat, water resources and movement routes in one of Africa’s most important migratory ecosystems.
The new study aimed to understand whether tourism facilities influence wildlife in another way – through physiological stress.
Studies have shown animals avoiding areas with tourism infrastructure or changing behaviour near tourist roads
Measuring stress in wildlife
Stress in animals is often measured through glucocorticoids. These hormones are part of the body’s endocrine response to challenging conditions such as disturbances, resource scarcity, or environmental pressures. Elevated glucocorticoid levels can indicate physiological stress and may affect reproduction, survival and behaviour.
Researchers increasingly measure these hormones using faecal glucocorticoid metabolites (FGMs). FGMs are hormone breakdown products that can be detected in animal dung. This method allows scientists to assess stress levels without capturing or handling animals, avoiding additional disturbance.
FGM analysis reflects activity of the hypothalamic–pituitary–adrenocortical axis, which regulates hormonal stress responses. Because these metabolites accumulate over time, they provide an integrated measure of stress rather than short-term fluctuations.
Why impalas are useful indicators
Impalas are medium-sized antelopes common in the Serengeti ecosystem, where their population exceeds 85,000 individuals. They live in social groups that can include female herds, bachelor groups or solitary territorial males. As mixed feeders, impalas graze grasses in the wet season and browse shrubs during the dry season. They typically remain within relatively small home ranges and are prey for large carnivores such as lions and hyenas.
Their abundance, social structure and sensitivity to human disturbance make them useful for studying how environmental factors affect wildlife physiology in protected areas.
Impalas’ abundance, social structure and sensitivity to human disturbance make them useful for studying the impacts of environmental factors
Collecting stress data in the Serengeti
Researchers collected 213 faecal samples from impalas between January and February 2025, during the Serengeti’s wet season, when forage quality is high. The sampling period also coincides with high tourist visitation.
Samples were collected from animals located within one kilometre of different types of tourist accommodation: lodges, permanent tented camps and seasonal campsites. Researchers recorded information about each impala group, including behaviour, group size, time of day and environmental conditions.
To isolate the effect of tourism infrastructure, the analysis also considered other factors that may influence stress levels. These included forage quality, measured using the Normalised Difference Vegetation Index (NDVI), and land surface temperature.
NDVI is a satellite-based measure of vegetation productivity. Higher NDVI values indicate greener and more productive vegetation, which generally reflects better forage quality for herbivores.
Infrastructure linked to higher stress in Serengeti
The analysis revealed clear differences between accommodation types.
Impalas living near larger lodges showed significantly higher levels of stress hormones than those near permanent tented camps or seasonal campsites. According to the study, “impalas near permanent tented camps and seasonal campsites had significantly lower FGM levels compared to those near lodges.”
The effect remained even when lodges had no tourists present. The researchers concluded that “larger facilities, such as lodges, were associated with increased stress levels even when there were no visitors.”
The likely explanation is infrastructure scale. Larger tourism facilities typically require more extensive buildings, roads and service areas than tented camps or seasonal campsites.
Seasonal and temporary camps had minimal effects on impala stress levels
The role of tourist numbers in the Serengeti
The study also examined tourist occupancy. Higher tourist numbers increased stress levels around tented camps and campsites, especially when visitor limits recommended by the Tanzania National Parks Authority (Tanapa) were exceeded.
Permanent tented camps in the Serengeti have an official occupancy limit of 50 tourists, while seasonal campsites are limited to 20. The researchers found that when these limits were exceeded, the effect of tourist numbers on impala stress became stronger.
This suggests that both infrastructure and visitor numbers contribute to physiological pressure on wildlife. Importantly, it suggests that obeying occupancy limits set by Tanapa is essential to the preservation of ecosystems.
Environmental factors also matter
Other ecological factors influenced stress levels.
Impalas living in areas with higher vegetation productivity showed lower stress levels. The study found that FGM levels declined as NDVI increased, indicating that better forage conditions can buffer physiological stress. Access to nutrient-rich vegetation likely allows animals to maintain better physical condition and allocate more energy to feeding and reproduction rather than coping with disturbance. In productive landscapes such as the Serengeti during the rainy season, high-quality forage may therefore help mitigate some of the stress associated with tourism infrastructure.
Group size also played a role. Impalas in larger herds had lower stress levels than those in smaller groups. Living in larger groups may reduce perceived predation risk and allow individuals to spend more time feeding.
Behaviour during sampling was also associated with hormone levels. Individuals who were walking showed higher FGM levels than those who were feeding.
Implications for protected area management and tourism
The study highlights the complex relationship between tourism development and wildlife conservation.
Tourism provides essential revenue for protected areas, yet the infrastructure required to support large tourist operations can affect wildlife physiology. In this case, large tourism facilities were linked to elevated stress levels in impalas.
This is why lodge choice matters. The study shows that large, fixed infrastructure can increase wildlife stress even in the absence of guests, which means tourism should not be judged solely by visitor numbers but by footprint, placement, and design. In a landscape defined by movement, developments that obstruct migration paths, intensify habitat pressure or sit outside careful environmental planning can undermine the ecological systems that tourism depends on. Well-planned lodges and camps, strong environmental impact assessments, low landscape disturbance and tourism partners aligned with conservation objectives are therefore not optional extras – they are central to keeping protected areas functional and wildlife populations secure.
The authors conclude that managing tourism development is essential to balance conservation and economic benefits. Maintaining visitor limits at campsites and tented camps could help reduce pressure on wildlife.
The study also calls for further research to identify which specific aspects of lodge infrastructure contribute most strongly to wildlife stress. Understanding these mechanisms could help guide future tourism planning in protected areas such as the Serengeti.
Understanding lodge infrastructure impacts could help guide future tourism planning in protected areas such as the Serengeti
Reference
Kessy, B.M., Arukwe, A., Mbise, F.P., Hariohay, K.M., Palme, R., Røskaft, E. & Ranke, P.S., 2026. Tourism infrastructure and physiological stress in free-ranging impalas (Aepyceros melampus) of Serengeti National Park. Global Ecology and Conservation, 67, e04130. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.gecco.2026.e04130
Wild dog myth busted + Volcanoes and gorillas + pangolin crisis
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter and more inspiration for your African safari.
From our CEO – Simon Espley
YouTube has just deleted one of our videos of elephants mating, courtesy of their ‘s*x and n*dity policy’. Our objection was rejected within minutes by software. The offensive action took place in the distance, amongst the agitated family group. So graphic videos depicting mangled civilians as bombing campaign collateral and trophy hunters shooting animals for fun are ok, but heaven forbid we expose our species to natural events like elephants mating.
I was reading the email from YouTube, my mind suspended somewhere between ‘surely this is a hoax’ and ‘oh ffs’, when Mother Nature tapped me on the shoulder as if to say, ‘don’t worry, we will sort this out.’ A troop of treetop vervet monkeys began hurling loud offence at what I assume was a passing leopard. There is an old one-eyed leopard who often passes this way, checking up on the monkeys and one of her favourite restaurants, a regular roosting knobthorn tree for a large flock of guineafowl. She knows this area well and has raised several litters here.
Life is good, despite our species’ determination to become subservient to software and algorithms.
For decades, we’ve heard a tidy story about African wild dogs: only the alpha female breeds, and subordinates fall in line. But research gathered over 14 years by the African Wildlife Conservation Fund in Zimbabwe overturns that narrative. In Savé Valley, subordinate females breed regularly, and their pups survive just as well, sometimes better. In this endangered carnivore, cooperation is a strategy that strengthens the pack. Read more about this fascinating find in our story below. And if you’re intrigued by this research, or anything else wild-dog related, don’t miss the African Wild Dogs United 2026 Virtual Conference, happening 10–12 March. Over three days, scientists, conservationists and wild-dog champions will gather to share the latest research, confront conservation challenges and unite behind the long-term survival of this remarkable species.
This week, we also feature our safari guide to Volcanoes National Park, where misty volcanoes, ancient forests and life-changing encounters with mountain gorillas await. And don’t miss our Photographer of the Year Week 2 gallery, with another breathtaking batch of images from the continent.
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
UNTAMED PICS
Our Week 2 Photographer of the Year selection is here! Enter for a chance to win a safari to Nyungwe NP
New research shows subordinate female wild dogs breed and boost pup survival, reshaping what we know about wild dog packs
VOLCANOES NP
Volcanoes National Park is a leading gorilla trekking destination in Africa. This volcanic landscape offers stunning scenery & biodiversity
Travel Desk – 2 African safari ideas
Southern Africa wild dog safari – 11 days
This unforgettable 11-day journey through Southern Africa, led by expert guides, will take you to all the best spots to see endangered African wild dogs. Visit Hwange, the Okavango Delta, and Kwando Reserve, and stop over in Victoria Falls. Experience guided bush walks, game drives and mokoro excursions – all in search of painted wolves.
The ultimate primate safari – 8 days
An immersive primate safari through the ancient volcanic rainforests of Uganda and Rwanda. Trek mountain gorillas, chimpanzees, golden monkeys and vast troops of striking black-and-white colobus, with time to unwind on beautiful Lake Kivu and connect with Batwa culture and local coffee traditions.
Between 1,000 and 2,000 pangolins are electrocuted in South Africa each year.
Pangolins often get caught on the trip-wire fences surrounding protected areas. These electrocutions can cause severe, if not fatal, injuries such as facial swelling and bleeding from the nose and eyes. Thankfully, Provet Animal Hospital is helping to treat those pangolins that fall victim to fences.
These injured pangolins require immediate treatment, including fluid therapy, anti-inflammatories, painkillers, and antibiotic treatment. Rehabilitated pangolins can be released back into the wild. These pangolins are fitted with satellite and radio tags to help monitor and track their progress after release.
Your donation, big or small, will support the team at Provet Animal Hospital to deal with the seasonal influx of these precious creatures. Learn more about our Save a Pangolin campaign here.
* Note that all pangolins are housed at offsite locations for security purposes.
WATCH
Botswana is the ultimate safari destination – from drifting through the Okavango Delta in a traditional mokoro to watching Chobe’s vast elephant herds and standing on the surreal Makgadikgadi salt pans. Add predators, warm local culture and a reputation for conservation leadership, and it’s easy to see why Botswana reigns supreme in sustainable tourism. Here are seven reasons why Botswana should top your safari wish list. Click here to watch. (04:02)
Our Photographer of the Year 2026 is open for submissions. The overall winner, runners-up, and their partners will journey to Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda, staying at the newly built Munazi Lodge, the only lodge inside the park. Expect chimpanzee trekking, canopy walks high above the forest floor, waterfall hikes, and encounters with black-and-white colobus monkeys in one of Africa’s most biodiverse montane forests. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2026 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 16 February 2026 to midnight on 7 May 2026. Judging will take place from February to June, and the winners will be announced in June.
Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week
The Greater Kruger is a giant among conservation landscapes in Southern Africa, standing alongside renowned destinations like Botswana’s Okavango Delta and Kenya’s Maasai Mara National Reserve in its iconic status and vast offering for safari goers.
The complement of Greater Kruger to Kruger National Park and surrounding private reserves creates one of Africa’s largest protected areas. At the heart of the Greater Kruger vision is that conservation can drive the region’s economy, resulting in thriving landscapes for wildlife and people.
What exactly is the Greater Kruger?
Greater Kruger refers to the various private and community game reserves adjacent and open to the western boundary of South Africa’s Kruger National Park. Cooperating across boundaries, Greater Kruger’s partner reserves — Sabi Sand, MalaMala, Timbavati, Klaserie, Umbabat, Balule, Thornybush, and the community-owned reserves of Manyeleti, Letaba Ranch, and Makuya — have committed to collaborate with the Kruger National Park to create a managed conservation landscape that’s almost the size of Rwanda.
Gathering to drink in Sabi Sand
Over 4,000 private individuals hold some stake in the various private reserves that comprise Greater Kruger. Historically, many were predominantly marginal agricultural properties and consumptive-use hunting farms that transitioned to conservation and began managing their lands primarily for wildlife rather than livestock. In 1993, many of these private owners agreed to remove the fences between their reserves and the Kruger National Park, creating the Greater Kruger landscape.
Historically, community reserves have received minimal investment compared to other private reserves. The exception is MalaMala due to its unique history—its private ownership was transferred to the Nwandlamhari community in a landmark deal in 2013.
The Boundless landscapes of Greater Kruger
Spanning the Sand, Olifants and Limpopo River systems, Greater Kruger comprises woodlands, wetlands, and grasslands. The Greater Kruger region features a diverse mosaic of landscapes and vegetation types. These ecosystems support abundant wildlife, forming one of Africa’s richest biodiversity hotspots.
Riverside safari magic in Greater Kruger
The terrain varies from flat plains to gently rolling hills, with some areas featuring rocky outcrops and ridges that provide shelter for smaller mammals and reptiles. Vegetation in Greater Kruger mirrors the broader savannah biome, with northern regions dominated by hardy mopane woodlands along lower-lying areas, characterised by their resilience to dry conditions and essential role in feeding elephants and other browsers. Moving southward, the landscape transitions into mixed Combretum woodlands, where bushwillows and marulas thrive alongside open grasslands, creating ideal habitats for grazing herbivores and the predators that follow them. Along river courses and seasonal drainage lines, lush riverine forests of jackalberry, sycamore fig, and fever trees create shaded, fertile corridors teeming with birdlife and aquatic species. These reserves also feature iconic Lowveld vegetation, including scattered baobabs and granite koppies dotted with aloes and other drought-tolerant plants. The interplay of these landscapes and vegetation types forms a rich tapestry of habitats that supports an extraordinary diversity of wildlife.
Healthy ecosystems sustain tourism by supporting wildlife, but even more importantly, provide essential services like water regulation and purification for wildlife and human populations. Rivers and wetlands in Greater Kruger act as natural filtration systems, providing cleaner water and managing water flow, which is crucial for agriculture, drinking water, and sanitation outside the park. Greater Kruger’s forests, grasslands, and wetlands also sequester carbon, helping to mitigate climate change.
The abundant wildlife of Greater Kruger
Greater Kruger’s woodlands, wetlands, and grasslands provide critical habitat for an extraordinary array of wildlife, with its open system enabling fauna to move between the national park and private and community reserves.
Wildlife viewing in Greater Kruger is unmatched. Here, a lion pride takes down a buffalo in Sabi Sand
Iconic species include the Big Five – lion, leopard, elephant, rhino, and buffalo – alongside cheetahs, wild dogs, and hyenas. Its diverse habitats support giraffes, zebras, antelope species like kudu and impala, and smaller mammals such as honey badgers and porcupines. Rivers and wetlands attract hippos, crocodiles, and abundant birdlife, including eagles, hornbills, and kingfishers. Reptiles like pythons and monitor lizards are also common. This rich biodiversity thrives in Greater Kruger’s well-preserved ecosystems, making it a premier destination for wildlife enthusiasts and conservation efforts.
Significantly, the north-south shape of the Kruger National Park is not optimal for seasonal wildlife migrations, so the additional range provided by the reserves on the western boundary of the national park makes an important difference to the functioning of the ecosystem.
While other protected areas in Africa—like the Serengeti National Park, Maasai Mara National Reserve, and Etosha National Park—are renowned for specific aspects (the Great Migration in Serengeti and Maasai Mara, or the stark landscapes of Etosha), Greater Kruger’s all-around offerings combine large-scale wildlife conservation, visitor accessibility, historical significance, and various ecosystems, making it unique in the African context.
Spotting a giraffe roadblock in Thornybush
Large mammals like carnivores and elephants play a critical role in maintaining Greater Kruger’s ecosystem and the benefits it provides. As landscape architects, elephants create clearings in wooded areas as they move around and feed, which lets new plants grow and forests regenerate naturally. They also disperse their dung and tree and other seeds over vast distances, promoting healthier vegetation. Meanwhile, predators like lions, cheetahs, and wild dogs help balance the ecosystem by keeping herbivore populations healthy and providing food for scavengers like hyenas, vultures, and smaller predators that recycle nutrients into the ecosystem.
Visiting Greater Kruger
Not all parts of Greater Kruger are equal or equally accessible to visitors. Visiting the Kruger National Park is different to visiting Greater Kruger private and community reserves. While they share a common management blueprint, each protected area has its social and conservation history and offers a distinctive safari experience.
Most private reserves are supported by private funding through a world-renowned high-end tourism market. The reserves of Greater Kruger limit visitor access to overnight stays at exclusive lodges with no self-drive and few self-catering options.
Enjoying a magical view of the boundless Londolozi landscape, in Sabi Sand
Relatively high prices and strict access control for private reserves in the Greater Kruger result in low visitor numbers compared to the neighbouring Kruger National Park. They also offer off-road driving (by experienced guides), night drives, bush walks and other activities that guarantee memorable wildlife encounters and experiences for those who choose and can afford to visit them. And they have become a critical band of protection for the Kruger National Park, helping to counter wildlife crime.
Most Greater Kruger reserves can only be experienced by overnight guests
Conserving the most valuable assets of Greater Kruger
Regarding the brass-tacks management of Greater Kruger, the Associated Private Nature Reserves (APNR) is responsible for managing wildlife populations, including shared efforts in monitoring species, anti-poaching measures, and habitat conservation. The APNR is an affiliation of the reserves Timbavati, Klaserie, Balule, Umbabat, and Thornybush. Together, they coordinate with Kruger National Park and act as a single body, sharing resources and adhering to shared conservation policies under the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area.
While the reserves operate as private tourism destinations, they are subject to agreements with SANParks (South African National Parks). This ensures that tourism activities like game drives and lodge operations align with conservation goals. The APNR also conducts research and collects data on wildlife dynamics, population trends, and habitat use, contributing to the overall scientific understanding of the Greater Kruger ecosystem.
Hunting does occur in some of the Greater Kruger reserves. It is governed by the South African government’s conservation authorities, such as the Limpopo and Mpumalanga provincial agencies, and specific reserve-management policies. Each year, these authorities assess wildlife populations, conservation needs, and ecological impact to determine quotas for hunting. The fees generated from hunting permits and trophy hunting contribute to conservation funding within the reserves that allow this activity. While hunting in Greater Kruger is managed with an emphasis on sustainability and conservation, it remains a controversial practice. Ethical considerations regarding trophy hunting, especially of iconic or endangered species, are often debated. There is no hunting in Sabi Sand or MalaMala.
Private reserves of Greater Kruger ensure that activities like game drives meet the conservation perimeters set by SANParks
The APNR plays a critical role in anti-poaching strategies, with dedicated ranger teams, surveillance technologies, and cooperation with SANParks to protect species like rhinos and elephants.
All reserves in the Greater Kruger landscape face wildlife and environmental crime. The Greater Kruger Environmental Protection Foundation (GKEPF) is a registered not-for-profit organisation that assists with the cooperation and coordination needed to prevent poaching and harmonize approaches to reporting, technology, and partnerships in the landscape by working with the various reserves. The Greater Kruger Area is home to South Africa’s largest rhino population. Therefore, it is a critical area for their conservation. The government and non-profit entities, including GKEPF and its partners, continue to commit funds and resources to combat these crimes.
Sabi Sand is one of the best areas in South Africa for spotting leopards
Highlight: Known for its exclusive lodges and leopards, Sabi Sand offers unrivalled encounters with these elusive cats amid rich riverine landscapes.
The conservation history of Sabi Sand began in 1898 when the area became part of the Sabie Reserve (proclaimed in 1902), which incorporated the Kruger National Park. In 1926, the National Parks Act of South Africa was passed, and private landowners adjacent to the newly proclaimed Kruger National Park were excised. Some of these landowners formed the Sabie Reserve in 1934. It became the 52,000-hectare* Sabi Sand Wildtuin in 1948. Today, the reserve’s reputation for luxury, exclusivity, and exceptional wildlife sightings, particularly leopards, makes it a sought-after safari destination globally. Sabi Sand’s lodges support conservation through tourism revenue. The reserve limits visitor numbers, and its lodges offer exclusive, immersive experiences.
Access: Only overnight guests can access Sabi Sand. Most visitors fly to Hoedspruit’s Eastgate Airport, Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport, Skukuza Airport, or private airstrips. Experienced guides lead all activities, and lodges offer exceptional personalised service, gourmet dining, and private game viewing.
MalaMala Game Reserve – read more
MalaMala offers a Big 5 experience without the crowds
Highlight: MalaMala is distinguished by its vast traversing area. It offers exclusive, crowd-free wildlife sightings and access to 20 kilometres of the Sand River.
MalaMala also formed part of the historic Sabie Game Reserve. In 1927, just after the Kruger National Park was proclaimed, 13,200 hectares between the National Park and the Sabi Sand Reserve were purchased privately and developed for tourism. In 1962, MalaMala became the first private reserve in South Africa to prohibit hunting and transition to purely photographic safaris. In a landmark land restitution deal in 2013, the ownership of MalaMala was transferred to the Nwandlamhari community. A co-management agreement allowed community ownership while maintaining the reserve’s conservation and tourism operations. The reserve is on the southeastern side of Greater Kruger, away from the busier western boundaries, and its traversing areas are carefully managed. This means sightings are exclusive, with minimal vehicle presence. Mala Mala’s lodges support conservation through tourism revenue.
Access: MalaMala only caters to overnight guests. Most visitors fly to Hoedspruit’s Eastgate Airport, Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport, Skukuza Airport, or private airstrips within the reserve. All activities are guide-led, and hospitality is high-end, personal, and exclusive, with excellent game viewing.
Timbavati Private Nature Reserve – read more
A white rhino in Timbavati
Highlight: Timbavati is famous for its diverse wildlife, including predators and large herds of buffalos and elephants. It’s also increasingly recognised for linking conservation goals with socio-economic development.
The 53,396-hectare Timbavati Private Nature Reserve was established in 1956 by cattle farmers who saw more potential in wildlife conservation. When its boundary fences with Kruger National Park were removed in 1993, it was already a thriving game reserve sustained by the Timbavati River and seasonal waterholes that draw in diverse wildlife, including elephants, buffalo, and predators. Today, the Timbavati Association manages the reserve, coordinating conservation and eco-tourism efforts among 47 landowners under a unified constitution. Lodges attract local and international visitors, providing jobs for eco-tourism and supporting conservation funding through tourism and limited hunting revenue. Timbavati is known for its efforts to integrate conservation, community empowerment, and sustainability.
Access: Timbavati is only accessible to overnight guests. It’s a 20-minute drive from Hoedspruit’s Eastgate Airport, and the reserve has various private airstrips. Timbavati’s luxury lodges offer conservation-oriented and immersive all-inclusive safari experiences that rival the best in the industry. There are limited self-catering exclusive-use properties and multi-day backpacking or glamping experiences where guests can explore on foot and sleep out.
Klaserie Private Nature Reserve – read more
Dusk dining under African skies in Klaserie
Highlight: Known for its secluded, quiet wilderness, Klaserie is the biggest reserve in the Greater Kruger. It offers a genuinely remote safari experience with fewer crowds.
More than 50 years ago (1972), a collection of private landowners decided to pull down fences between their respective properties and form the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve. Like the other reserves that removed their fences, Klaserie became part of Greater Kruger in 1993. The reserve habitat is varied, with rocky outcrops, riverine trees, open floodplains, sandy drainage lines, and quiet dams. Game drives in the 60,080-hectare Klaserie also stand out for their quieter atmosphere. Only a few vehicles are allowed at any sighting, providing undisturbed wildlife viewing and longer observation times. Its low-density, low-impact ethic safeguards an authentic experience and helps preserve the integrity of the wilderness itself. Klaserie’s lodges support conservation and social development through tourism and limited hunting revenue.
Access and Accommodation: To visit Klaserie, book into one of its lodges. Just 20 minutes from Hoedspruit’s Eastgate Airport, Klaserie is known for personalised safari experiences, with fully catered high-end options, mid-range lodges, tented camps, and exclusive-use villas.
Umbabat Private Nature Reserve – read more
Silence on the banks of a river in Umbabat – a typical experience in this almost-secret destination
Highlight: Umbabat feels like the most secret part of Greater Kruger due to its location, rugged landscape, and relatively low-profile tourism.
Established in 1956 and later expanded, Umbabat Reserve covers around 18,000 hectares between Timbavati and Klaserie on the northern boundary of Greater Kruger. It’s a quieter, more untouched corner of this vast conservation area, attracting those who seek a remote and authentic safari experience. The seasonal Nhlaralumi River, which runs through the reserve, is a lifeline for animals during the dry season and a central feature of Umbabat’s ecosystem. Umbabat has low visitor numbers and few commercial lodges. This means that sightings are rarely shared with other vehicles. The reserve operates under a federal share-block model, and land use, hunting, and conservation decisions are made collectively, with funds pooled for reserve-wide projects.
Access: Umbabat is only accessible to overnight guests. The closest airport is Hoedspruit’s Eastgate Airport. There are limited commercial lodges.
Balule Nature Reserve – read more
Elephants gather for a drink and a splash in the waters of Balule
Highlight: Balule is ideal for visitors seeking a balance between wildlife experiences and their budget. It has several well-known, family-run camps and offers many tourism experiences and accommodation options.
Balule Nature Reserve has an interesting history that mirrors the region’s shift from agricultural land use to conservation. It covers 55,000 hectares along the Olifants River. Established in the early 1990s, Balule was a collection of privately owned farms, many used for cattle grazing. In the early 1990s, conservation-minded landowners consolidated their properties, removing fences to create a larger, contiguous conservation area. This collaborative effort marked the establishment of Balule Nature Reserve, which then joined the Associated Private Nature Reserves and dropped fences with Kruger National Park. You’ll see remnants of its farming past, but the reserve has good populations of lions, elephants, buffalos, leopards and general game. Since its formation, Balule has focused heavily on conservation, with particular attention to rhino protection. Balule is on the Western boundary of the Greater Kruger, which means it’s an important first line of defence in countering wildlife crime. There is limited hunting in the reserve.
Access: You need to be an overnight guest to visit Balule. It’s accessible via Hoedspruit’s Eastgate Airport or private airstrips. Balule offers accommodations ranging from budget to luxury lodges, tented camps, wilderness backpack trails, voluntourism, and eco-tourism training facilities.
Thornybush Private Nature Reserve – read more
Wild dogs in Thornybush
Highlight: The reserve dropped its fences with Kruger National Park in 2017, making it a dynamic piece of the Greater Kruger puzzle with excellent wildlife sightings.
Thornybush covers 14,000 hectares and has become a prominent name in the Greater Kruger ecosystem due to its luxury lodges and well-developed, exclusive tourism infrastructure. In the 1950s, Thornybush transitioned from agricultural land to a conservation-focused reserve but operated with fenced boundaries for decades, keeping wildlife within its borders. However, in 2017, Thornybush took a major conservation step by removing sections of its fencing along the western boundary with the neighbouring Timbavati Private Nature Reserve so wildlife can move freely between Thornybush, Timbavati, and Kruger National Park. Thornybush has since become deeply involved in conservation efforts, particularly in anti-poaching initiatives to protect endangered species like rhinos and supports research and monitoring programs to sustain wildlife populations and habitat health.
Access: To visit Thornybush, guests need to be booked into one of its lodges. It’s accessible via Hoedspruit’s Eastgate Airport or private airstrips within the reserve. It’s known for its luxury eco-tourism experiences, hosting a range of high-end lodges that emphasise a low-impact tourism model.
Manyeleti Game Reserve – read more
Quenching thirst on a hot day, Manyeleti
Highlight: Manyeleti’s affordable safari options aren’t well known, making this a hidden gem in the Greater Kruger landscape. It borders Sabi Sand, so you may just see the area’s famous leopards at a fraction of the price.
During the apartheid era, the South African government designated Manyeleti exclusively for black visitors, which is how the reserve was resourced. And despite being established on ancestral lands of local communities, they were not allowed ownership or management roles despite having some access to the reserve. After the end of apartheid in 1994, land restitution laws enabled local communities to file land claims on areas from which they had been displaced. It’s been a rocky road to restitution, including ongoing disputes around land claims, infrastructure limitations and competition from more established private reserves. In the meantime, the Mpumalanga Tourism and Parks Agency manages the reserve as part of Greater Kruger, and visitors regularly see lions, buffalos, elephants, and leopards. Despite its rich biodiversity, the 23,000-hectare Manyeleti remains less commercialised than other reserves and focuses exclusively on eco-tourism and wildlife conservation.
Access: It’s a 45-minute drive from Hoedspruit’s Eastgate airport. Self-driving and tour operator-run day visits, and game drives are allowed. You can book overnight at the provincially run self-catering rest camp or one of the few high-end, all-inclusive luxury lodges in reserve.
Letaba Ranch Game Reserve – read more
Doing an interpretive trail in Letaba Ranch Game Reserve
Highlight: Letaba Ranch Game Reserve’s roads are less travelled than any others in the Greater Kruger, making it an option for the most self-sufficient travellers eager to explore new areas.
Established in the 1970s, Letaba Ranch is a 42,000-hectare area on Kruger’s border. Initially managed by Limpopo Province, the reserve was intended to reduce human-wildlife conflict by creating a buffer zone between the Kruger National Park and adjacent communities. However, the reserve faced several challenges due to limited infrastructure and resources for effective wildlife management. Community access was restricted, which created tensions as people were displaced from lands they traditionally relied on. Some of these tensions persist today. After apartheid ended in 1994, South African restitution policies allowed communities to claim land from which they had been previously removed. This led to the reserve adopting a model that includes community benefits from tourism and conservation, but it’s been a contested process, and the reserve continues to face conservation, social and security challenges. Its history reflects the broader challenges of integrating conservation with community rights and economic sustainability in South Africa’s Protected areas. Its main economic activity has been hunting.
Access: It’s close to Phalaborwa town. Self-drive day and overnight visitors can visit the reserve but expect limited infrastructure and basic campsites. There is one safari camp in the reserve.
Makuya Nature Reserve – read more
Highlight: Makuya’s Luvuvhu River gorge and mountainous landscape provide stunning vistas, unique wildlife habitats, and a rich cultural history.
Makuya Nature Reserve in the northern part of South Africa’s Limpopo Province has a unique history that intertwines with local communities, land restitution efforts, and conservation. The reserve is about 16,000 hectares and features dramatic cliffs and river gorges that provide some of the most stunning views in the Greater Kruger. It was initially part of a broader effort to establish buffer zones around Kruger National Park, protecting the ecosystem and creating sustainable land use for surrounding communities. The apartheid government, however, displaced indigenous communities and limited their rights to access and use the land. With the end of apartheid in 1994, the community reclaimed their rights to the land. Today, Makuya Nature Reserve is managed through a collaborative structure that involves the Makuya community, Limpopo provincial authorities, and conservation organisations. It is used for both trophy hunting and photographic tourism purposes. The reserve emphasises the conservation of cultural heritage sites within its boundaries, including sacred sites.
Access: Overnight and day visitors are welcome. Accessible from Pafuri Gate in Northern Kruger, Makuya offers rustic, self-catering camps and campsites, as well as eco-tourism activities such as guided game drives, walking safaris (including multi-day backpack trails), and cultural tours. While the reserve’s tourism infrastructure is modest compared to other Greater Kruger reserves, it provides an authentic, off-the-beaten-path safari experience.
Final thoughts
The Greater Kruger stands as a beacon of hope for conservation and community upliftment in Southern Africa. Its breathtaking landscapes, diverse ecosystems, and remarkable wildlife are a testament to the power of collaboration between private reserves, communities, and national parks. This iconic wilderness not only offers unforgettable safari experiences but also exemplifies the profound impact of harmonizing conservation and economic development. As Greater Kruger continues to evolve, it remains a symbol of Africa’s resilience, beauty, and commitment to preserving its natural heritage for generations to come.
Jamie Paterson spends time with the famous leopards of Sabi Sand Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger, on a specialised leopard safari. Read more about her safari here
* The commonly used 65,000-hectare area measurement for Sabi Sand Nature Reserve often includes the area measurement of MalaMala, for which we have provided a separate measurement above.
For decades, many field guides and safari narratives have repeated a simple rule: in an African wild dog pack, only the alpha female breeds. This view was shaped in part by Hugo van Lawick’s 1974 account Solo, which documented aggression by an alpha female toward a subordinate that had given birth. That account suggested strict reproductive control, including infanticide and starvation of subordinate females.
But new long-term research from Zimbabwe challenges that assumption. A 14-year study in the Savé Valley Conservancy, Zimbabwe, analysed reproduction in 49 packs of African wild dogs Lycaon pictus, across 131 den sites. The findings show that, at least within this landscape, subordinate females breed far more often than previously assumed – and that their pups survive at comparable, and sometimes higher, rates. The research was conducted by the African Wildlife Conservation Fund in collaboration with the London Zoological Society, Rhodes University, University of Mpumalanga and the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority.
Not just the alpha’s legacy. Subordinate mothers contributed a third of long-term survivors
What cooperative breeding means
Cooperative breeding occurs when individuals other than the parents help raise young. It is rare in mammals, found in less than 1% of species.
In wild dogs, cooperative breeding is considered near-obligate. Packs typically consist of an alpha pair, subordinate adults and offspring. During the approximately three-month denning period, all adults regurgitate food for the lactating female and pups.
Two evolutionary concepts help explain this system. Kin selection refers to individuals increasing their inclusive fitness by helping relatives reproduce. Group augmentation refers to the benefits of living in larger groups, such as improved hunting success and pup survival. In wild dogs, larger packs are known to raise more pups to independence. The new study examines how these social and ecological factors interact.
Adults visiting the den regurgitate food for the lactating female and pupsLarger packs see improved hunting success and pup survival
Subordinate females breed more often than assumed
Between 2008 and 2021, the 49 packs studied in the Savé Valley study area produced 130 breeding events and 173 litters. Of these packs, 20 produced multiple litters, with two females from the same pack breeding during the same denning season. Among packs capable of doing so – those with more than one breeding-age female – 41.15% of breeding events resulted in multiple litters.
Subordinate females contributed 24.86% of all litters. Importantly, their pups accounted for 32.19% of one-year survivors and 33.68% of two-year survivors. Infanticide was rare. It occurred in 2% of multiple-litter packs, while pup stealing or adoption occurred in 14%
These figures contrast with earlier assumptions that dominant females frequently suppress subordinate reproduction through killing pups. The study therefore shows that subordinate breeding is not exceptional in this population and does not generally result in severe reproductive conflict.
Strength in numbers. Larger packs significantly improved pup survival to two years
What drives multiple litters
The researchers tested whether environmental conditions, such as rainfall and temperature, influenced the occurrence of multiple litters. Pre-emergence rainfall and temperature can affect prey availability and hunting success, which, in turn, influence the energy available for reproduction. However, statistical models showed that environmental variables did not predict whether a pack produced multiple litters.
Instead, social structure was decisive. Younger packs were significantly more likely to produce multiple litters. Packs with more subordinate females were also significantly more likely to do so. Pack age had a significant negative effect on the probability of multiple litters, while the number of subordinate females had a significant positive effect. The authors conclude that weaker dominance hierarchies in younger packs may allow more subordinate breeding. This supports the idea that reproductive sharing is shaped by social dynamics rather than short-term environmental variation.
Do second litters survive?
When two litters are born in the same pack, pups may be first-born or second-born. A common assumption is that second-born pups would suffer from competition for food, or from leaving the den too early, with the second-born pups being too small to survive moving with the pack.
The data do not support these assumptions. Within multiple-litter packs, pup survival to one year was significantly higher for second-born litters than for first-born litters. By the second year, survival did not differ by birth order.
Across all packs, a larger pack size significantly improved both one-year and two-year survival. Two-year survival also increased with higher pre-emergence rainfall and higher maximum daily temperatures. These findings indicate that communal care can buffer potential disadvantages associated with birth order. In addition, pups from single-litter packs had significantly lower survival to two years compared to pups from multiple-litter packs. The data show that cooperative systems can enhance long-term survival.
Pups from multiple-litter packs have higher chances of survival
Related females and reproductive tolerance
In multiple-litter packs, breeding females were often closely related. The most common relationship was litter sisters, accounting for 37.21% of cases. Mother–daughter pairs and other related combinations were also recorded.
High relatedness may reduce conflict. Kin selection theory predicts that females may tolerate reproduction by relatives because they share genes.
The authors note that the tolerance of multiple litters may also affect genetic diversity in the Savé Valley population, which is known to exhibit low genetic diversity. Allowing more females to breed could increase genetic contribution within packs.
More helpers, more resilience. Social structure shaped breeding patterns more than climate
The bigger conservation picture
African wild dogs persist in only 7% of their historic range. They face habitat fragmentation, prey decline, human–wildlife conflict and climate change. This study shows that subordinate breeding does not reduce pup survival and that multiple-litter packs have higher two-year survival rates.
It also shows that social structure, particularly pack age and the presence of subordinate females, shapes reproductive outcomes.
For conservation practitioners, the implication is clear. Maintaining intact social structures and sufficient pack size is important. Suppressing subordinate breeding is unlikely to benefit population growth in this system.
The long-held belief that only alpha females breed does not hold in this population. Cooperative breeding in African wild dogs can be more flexible in certain populations, more tolerant and more productive than once assumed.
Questions such as these will be the focus of a presentation delivered at the African Wild Dogs United 2026 Virtual Conference, March 10–12. Across three days, 78 presentations will examine a wide range of African wild dog research topics. Everyone interested in, passionate about, or fortunate enough to have spent time with African wild dogs is invited to peruse the programme, explore the list of keynote speakers, register, support a student and make a donation via AWDU. The African Wild Dog Survival Fund is sponsoring the three days, enabling registration revenue to be channelled into bursaries for young aspiring Africans wanting to work with wild dogs.
First photos + East vs Southern Africa safari + Kunene fights poaching
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
Greater Kruger wildlife conservation needs more female influence. There, I said it. Any rolling eyeballs?
Not long ago, the late Sharon Haussmann (former Balule Private Nature Reserve chairperson and CEO of GKEPF) and I used to meet over coffee (often on a game drive) to discuss issues, face up to realities and frustrations, and share much-needed data and advice. I miss those days, and I miss her. Hopefully, Dr Marisa Coetzee, her successor at GKEPF and also a strong lady, will lead the team to even greater heights.
Over the years, I have met many women who have had a huge impact across the African conservation space. Brave, resilient warriors who have risen to the top despite glass ceilings and corporate bullies. We desperately need more of them to balance out the current testosterone-infused domination in this region. Of course, we need a wide range of mindsets, skills, and personality types, and adding more women to these critical leadership roles will bring us closer to what is required in this complex, amazing ecosystem.
Baobabs aren’t supposed to fall. They’re living water towers with bark thick enough to shrug off drought, fire and the occasional elephant. Some have stood for over 2,000 years. Civilisations have come and gone. The baobab stayed put. Until… Meet the mango stem-borer, a fruit-tree pest from Asia that has recently discovered the hospitality of baobabs (albeit in the Middle East). In Oman, where just over 100 baobabs grow, researchers found six giants already killed and a dozen more infested.
Their soft, water-rich trunks packed with nutrients make baobabs perfect nurseries for hungry larvae. The beetle hasn’t reached mainland Africa. But it is already present on islands such as Madagascar, which is home to six native baobab species. Plus, the beetle can fly 14 kilometres in a night, and shipping containers are the equivalent of first-class tickets for bugs. Scientists are now proactively developing control strategies to ensure the beetle doesn’t gain a foothold elsewhere.
In happier news, it’s our favourite time of year. Our first Photographer of the Year 2026 entries have landed. And yes, there’s a Nyungwe safari up for grabs. We also weigh up East versus Southern Africa safaris (which is best?) and dive into how tourism in Namibia’s Kunene is powering renewed anti-poaching patrols across vast communal conservancies.
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
FIRST PHOTOS
Our first Photographer of the Year 2026 entries are in! Check out our favourites and enter to win a trip to Nyungwe
EAST VS SOUTHERN AFRICA
We compare safari experiences in East vs Southern Africa. Each offers unique species & landscapes. Which is best? Read our advice
TOURISM VS POACHING
Tourism in Namibia’s Kunene is powering renewed anti-poaching patrols, protecting wildlife across vast communal conservancies
Discover two of Tanzania’s extraordinary and contrasting destinations. The wild beauty of Ruaha National Park, where ancient baobabs tower over elephant herds and prowling predators, to the turquoise waters of Mafia Island, a barefoot hideaway of coral gardens and castaway calm. This classic safari-and-sea combination captures the true spirit of Africa: untamed, soulful, and unforgettable
Fancy a guided photographic safari in Kenya’s Maasai Mara? Join award-winning photographer Arnfinn Johansen on this exclusive safari for four guests. Highlights include guided game drives with an experienced Maasai guide in a modified photographic vehicle, and accommodation at Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp. Departure Dates: 20-28 November 2026
AG safari guest Chrys and Tissa from Australia went on a dream Kenya safari to the Maasai Mara:
“Fantastic safari. The trip to Kenya was planned and executed to perfection by Christian and Africa Geographic. Enkewa Camp in Maasai Mara exceeded all our expectations. Comfortable and clean. Excellent food and service. Game viewing was superb. The camp manager, Nando, went over and above the call of duty to make our stay comfortable and special. Many thanks to him, Nico, Caleb, Joseph and all the staff. I’d love to go back.”
Hoedspruit’s leopards are masters of survival – but roads and shrinking wild spaces are taking a toll. Seven were killed in one year, most on the R40 highway. Learn about Ingwe’s work and our Spots on the Line campaign to help keep them alive. (02:04) Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2026 is open for submissions. The overall winner, runners-up, and their partners will journey to Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda, staying at the newly built Munazi Lodge, the only lodge inside the park. Expect chimpanzee trekking, canopy walks high above the forest floor, waterfall hikes, and encounters with black-and-white colobus monkeys in one of Africa’s most biodiverse montane forests. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2026 prizes here. In association with Ukuri and African Parks.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 16 February 2026 to midnight on 7 May 2026. Judging will take place from February to June, and the winners will be announced in June.
Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week
The semi-nomadic OvaHimba people of north-western Namibia travel lightly. For long journeys across the rugged wilderness of the Kunene Region, they pack only the essentials into a small bag slung from a stick carried over the shoulder. These modest bundles, known as okamutenge, are vital companions on demanding journeys through one of Africa’s most remote landscapes.
It is a fitting name, then, for a new anti-poaching initiative launched by the OvaHimba-owned collaboration, Conservancy Safaris Namibia (CSN). Like its namesake, the Okamutenge project carries what is essential – practical support and determination – to help community conservancies protect their wildlife and, in time, strengthen their tourism revenue.
A black rhino spotted by Boas Hambo on patrol
A timely intervention
The community game guards in Orupembe Conservancy were the first to request support for their patrols. Their conservancy vehicle, which had been donated by CSN 15 years ago, had worn out on the rough roads that characterise Namibia’s Kunene Region. Without a reliable 4×4 vehicle, game guards can only patrol near their homes, leaving the areas far from villages vulnerable to poachers.
The urgency of the situation intensified after good rains broke a prolonged, multi-year drought. Across the Kunene, wildlife populations are starting to rebound from years of environmental hardship. Springbok once again dot the plains. Hartmann’s mountain zebra move cautiously across the hills. Giraffe and oryx are being seen more frequently.
But recovery brings risk. Rebounding wildlife can attract opportunistic poachers, especially where anti-poaching presence is limited.
In response, Okamutenge was launched in mid-2025. CSN loaned an ageing Land Cruiser from Etaambura Lodge and allocated a modest budget for essential equipment: sturdy boots for game guards, patrol supplies and food. It was not a grand intervention, but it was enough to get boots back on the ground.
Giraffe in Kunene
Collaboration across 13,000 square kilometres
The project has been a catalyst for restarting regular patrolling across all five north-western conservancies, an area covering over 13,000 km2. Boas Hambo, CSN’s head guide and experienced conservationist, has brought together all parties, including the Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism (MEFT) and community leadership.
A model for tourism supporting community conservation, Okamutenge has already made a difference. In October 2025, the patrol team caught four poachers with Oryx meat and turned them over to the Orupembe police (game guards cannot arrest people on their own). The patrol teams include game guards from multiple conservancies (CSN is owned by five conservancies), strengthening cooperation across boundaries and improving information sharing. The presence of MEFT officials further reinforces legitimacy and coordination. Community conservation in Namibia has long been held up as a global model; Okamutenge demonstrates how tourism revenue can directly reinforce that model when it is needed most.
Yet the true success of anti-poaching work often lies in what does not happen. While on patrol, teams visit local farmers and settlements to raise awareness of the renewed anti-poaching presence. This visible vigilance acts as a deterrent, discouraging illegal hunting before it occurs. Though difficult to quantify, prevention is arguably the project’s greatest achievement.
A community meeting within the OvaHimba communityGame guards on patrol
Wildlife returning
While patrol teams primarily look for people’s tracks and signs of poaching, they also record the animals they see while walking. During patrols in three conservancies in the latter half of 2025, they documented:
279 Hartmann’s mountain zebra
479 springbok
109 oryx (gemsbok)
68 giraffe
91 ostrich
These figures do not constitute formal wildlife censuses, but they offer valuable insight into distribution patterns and help refine patrol planning. More importantly, they offer encouragement. For game guards who endured years of drought-induced decline, seeing wildlife numbers begin to rise again is both motivating and deeply personal.
Though patrols are conducted on foot, the support vehicle travelled nearly 1,500 km during these operations, ferrying teams to remote drop-off points and allowing them to access areas that would otherwise remain largely unmonitored.
Wildlife numbers are recovering in the region
Tourism as a conservation engine
At a critical moment, as wildlife rebounds and pressures mount, Okamutenge is meeting an urgent need. But its future depends on sustainable funding.
Because CSN is owned by five communal conservancies, tourism income flows directly back into conservation and community development. Every safari contributes to patrol fuel, equipment, salaries and the broader protection of wildlife.
Travelling to Namibia’s Kunene offers visitors more than a wilderness experience. Here, guests can explore the remote Kunene and learn firsthand about decades of conservation work in the region. It is tourism with purpose: immersive, educational and directly linked to tangible conservation outcomes.
Tourism and conservation are natural partners. As wildlife populations recover, the value of the tourism product increases. It follows that lodges, operators and guests all share a vested interest in safeguarding that recovery. By supporting Okamutenge, CSN is demonstrating how locally owned tourism enterprises can lead from the front.
Western Namibia is a land of heat, sand, sea and remarkable biodiversity surviving against the backdrop of harsh but stunning scenery. Learn more about the land of ochre here
Gail is a conservation scientist who focuses on carnivore conservation and human-wildlife conflict.
She has a passion for creating public awareness of conservation through her popular writings. She has many years of field experience in Namibia , Botswana and South Africa working on human-carnivore conflict and wildlife monitoring projects.
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter and more inspiration for your African safari.
From our CEO – Simon Espley
What a breath of fresh air from the AI slop and ‘content creator’ detritus that dominates our feeds! Greg’s personal video account below of the huge breeding python in his garden had me fascinated, thrilled, and more than a little envious that the python had chosen his garden as her nursery rather than mine.
Greg du Toit, a respected photographic safari guide, is old school in that he values respect, dignity, and authenticity. His video demonstrates that in spades. His patient, non-invasive documentation of the snake’s breeding cycle and down-to-earth commentary stand in stark contrast to the forced, insincere clickbait that is now the norm.
Scroll down and see for yourself.
In other news, the safari booking season is well on its way, and popular destinations are largely booked out for 2026, with 2027 enquiries rolling in. We have once again secured an exclusive block of high-season 2026 nights at an authentic bush camp in a prime area of Botswana’s Okavango Delta for you and yours. Let us know your dates, and let’s start planning your escape to the Okavango Delta. Safari njema, good people.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Did you know that elephants can ‘see’ using their trunks? An elephant has roughly 1,000 whiskers on its trunk, acting as high-tech antennas.
Elephants are famous for knowing exactly what’s going on: who’s nearby, what’s edible, what’s dangerous. Now, a new study has found that elephant whiskers act like tiny touch sensors: each whisker changes along its length, stiff and porous at the base, and softer and denser toward the tip. Each whisker acts as a tactile sensory organ. This clever design helps elephants sense exactly where something touches the whisker, improving their ability to “feel” their surroundings. So the next time you see an elephant using its trunk to delicately stroke a calf, feel a tree trunk or caress the tusk of a companion, know: it’s reading the world through its whiskers.
This week, we delve into how Africa’s decline in wildlife is draining the continent’s ecosystems of functional energy and ecological power. Plus, we take a breather on the tranquil shores of Bazaruto, with everything you need to know about this island paradise.
Today, we start voting on the first entries for Photographer of the Year 2026, and we are already blown away by the quality – and interesting subject matter – of the photos coming in. We can’t wait to share these with you!
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
WILDLIFE DECLINE
Sub-Saharan Africa has lost over a third of wildlife ecological power, with major declines outside protected areas – study
BAZARUTO ARCHIPELAGO
Mozambique’s Bazaruto has all the ingredients of a sublime safari: fascinating creatures, scenery & biodiversity
Discover Mozambique, from the wilds of Gorongosa National Park to the barefoot luxury of Benguerra Island in the Bazaruto Archipelago. Game drives, bush walks, foraging with wild pangolins, dhow cruises, snorkelling, and helicopter flights make this the perfect blend of adventure and indulgence.
An epic pairing of authentic bush camp and seaside luxury. This bush-and-beach escape begins in the Okavango Delta with game drives and mokoro excursions led by expert Bushman guides in a predator-rich wilderness, before easing into barefoot bliss in Vilanculos, with white-sand beaches, warm ocean swims, and sunset dhow sails.
Teresa and Joan from Ireland went on a dream South Africa trip to Madikwe and Cape Town with AG:
“Magical trip to South Africa. What a fabulous time we had in South Africa, booked seamlessly through Ro and Linda at Africa Geographic. Our trip was to Madikwe Game Reserve, where we stayed for 3 nights. The lodge was very welcoming – beautiful place to stay within the park – and the food was so varied and delicious. The game drives exceeded our expectations… we had many close-up views of the animals. A shout out to our safari guide Ashley, who shared all his knowledge of the animals (and he was a really polite gentleman). And of course, to Heidi, the lodge manager, who had a lovely birthday cake for me on my 60th birthday. Our internal flights to get to Cape Town ran very smoothly, and we were then picked up punctually and stayed at the Queen Victoria Hotel in Cape Town for 3 nights. What a lovely place! We visited all the ‘to-do’ sites there, including Table Mountain, Boulders Beach and Robben Island. A big thank you to Lloyd, whom we booked for a day to drive us around, through AG. All in all, a fabulous itinerary made to our liking. Thank you, AG: I would highly recommend them.”
Witness the incredible breeding journey of an African rock python, captured in intimate detail via camera trap in the Lowveld garden of wildlife photographer, Greg du Toit. (08:10) Click here to watch
Picture the scene: you’ve spent the day exploring the azure waters of a marine sanctuary, suspended in the amniotic embrace of the Indian Ocean and marvelling at encounters with its enigmatic residents. Sun-kissed and slightly salty, you sip a cocktail (of a suitably lurid colour) and watch the hues of the sky and sand as Africa delivers one of her speciality sunsets. Mozambique’s Bazaruto Archipelago has all the ingredients of a sublime safari, albeit ocean-themed: fascinating creatures, breathtaking scenery, and exceptional biodiversity.
Bazaruto Archipelago National Park
Bazaruto Archipelago National Park spans a vast 1,430 km² (143,000 ha) off Mozambique’s coast, encompassing five islands, diverse coral reefs, and critical marine habitats. Declared a protected area in 1971, Bazaruto (meaning ‘island of the mist’) is the country’s oldest marine park. Three of the five islands are home to a tiny rural population of about 7,000 people, who primarily survive through subsistence farming and harvesting the archipelago’s natural resources.
Fishermen on the water’s edge
The eponymous Bazaruto Island is the largest by a substantial margin. Its eastern edge is dominated by enormous, ancient dunes, while the interior is pockmarked with inland lakes and wetlands, home to crocodiles and abundant birdlife. Benguerra and Magaruque Islands to the south are similarly structured on a smaller scale. Santa Caroline (also known as Paradise Island – for good reason) is the only true volcanic island, uninhabited and positioned between Bazaruto and the mainland. Finally, tiny Banque Island (and its satellite Pansy Shell Island) occupies the southernmost tip of the park – little more than a stretch of sand.
Each of the five islands has a unique character, but all share the same fundamentals: long stretches of white-sand beaches for which Mozambique is renowned and a wealth of marine life in the seas around them.
A glimpse of Bazaruto’s azure-blue waters and extensive beaches
Bazaruto’s picture-perfect beaches roll on as far as the eye can see. This abundance of natural resources enabled abuse through overfishing, illegal fishing, poaching, and poorly regulated tourism, which threatened Bazaruto’s rare and endemic marine life. In 2017, the park became the first marine reserve under African Parks’ management, following a partnership with Mozambique’s National Administration of Conservation Areas to protect the country’s sapphire treasure.
The non-profit organisation immediately set about securing the region by clamping down on illegal fishing and turtle poaching and intercepting commercial fishing vessels. To ensure the park’s long-term future, African Parks immediately established a community engagement programme to build a relationship between local communities and park management teams. Through scholarships, learning materials, uniforms, and other initiatives, including disaster relief, the goal is to ensure that communities sustainably benefit from their country’s resources. African Parks also worked with tourism operators in the region to formalise the regulation of activities conducted in the park.
The result is a thriving seascape with flourishing aquatic inhabitants (including endangered sea turtles and rare dugongs) and exceptional potential for high-end, low-impact tourism.
Bazaruto comprises five islands and diverse coral reefs – critical marine habitatsLong white beaches dominate the archipelago
Ocean safari
Bazaruto is one of the most valuable marine sanctuaries along the East African coastline, protecting critical habitats for many rare and endemic species, including iconic oceanic megafauna. The temperate, calm waters of the area serve as one of the most important breeding grounds and migratory corridors along East Africa’s coast. Pods of six species of dolphins (bottlenose, common, Fraser’s, humpback, spinner and striped) cut through the turquoise waves. Below the surface, silver flashes and kaleidoscope colours reveal more than 2,000 fish species. For half the year, migrating southern right and humpback whales pass through the warm waters, their leviathan figures breaching before slamming down in a cloud of spray. Now and again, the long black fins and sleek tuxedo forms of orcas (killer whales) move silently through the tranquil seas.
For elasmobranch (cartilaginous fish – sharks, rays and so on) enthusiasts, the waters of Mozambique are home to 122 species. In particular, the country is famous for its whale shark encounters. These gentle giants are the biggest fish in the world, reaching over 14 metres in length, dwarfing those fortunate enough to swim by their side. They congregate around Bazaruto between October and April and (provided they are treated with respect) are slow and docile, allowing for the deeply humbling privilege of time spent in their harmless company. Each of these prodigious plankton-eaters is covered in a unique constellation of white spots that help scientists track an individual’s movements across the globe.
Whale sharks generally prefer deeper waters farther from the coast, along with other pelagic sharks, manta rays, and numerous fish species, including kingfish, king mackerel, marlin, and sailfish. Closer to shore, deep calm blue gives way to the hustle and bustle of the reefs. Coral reefs cover just 0.1% of the ocean yet support 25% of all marine life, underscoring the tremendous diversity on display. In Bazaruto, these vibrant oceanic habitats support a wide range of marine life, from eye-catching fish to flamboyant nudibranchs.
Every year from November until March, the seas fill with female sea turtles bobbing through to nest on the islands’ beaches. Many (but not all) are returning to the place where they once made the terrifying journey to the sea as hatchlings at least thirty years previously. African Parks has implemented a turtle nest monitoring programme and has since confirmed that five species of turtle: leatherback, loggerhead, green, olive ridley and hawksbill turtles all nest on the beaches of the Bazaruto Archipelago.
Scuba diving in the numerous coral reefs to spot turtles and other sea creatures is a popular activity around the islandsHumpback whale in the depths of Bazaruto watersBazaruto comprises five islands and diverse coral reefs
A mermaid’s tale
Yet of all the marine wonders of Bazaruto, the dugongs are the archipelago’s most sought-after residents. Dugongs are the only surviving representatives of an entire family (Dugongidae), and those inhabiting Bazaruto are the last viable population in the western Indian Ocean. Cousins to the manatee, these peculiar-looking creatures look a little as though someone crossed a hippopotamus and a dolphin. Some historians have even postulated that the dugong may be the origin of mermaid mythology in certain cultures.
These massive (up to around 500kg) animals are strictly herbivorous, and their snouts are adapted to vacuum up seagrass from the ocean floor, imparting a rather woeful expression to their round faces and earning them the nickname “sea cows”. Given the fragile nature of this remaining population of approximately 300 individuals, African Parks has implemented strict rules for viewing them from boats or underwater. Swimming with dugongs is permitted only with a guide and limited to four people at a time. These restrictions (along with other widespread protective measures) have already proven successful. At the end of 2021, Mozambique documented the largest dugong herd in East Africa in nearly thirty years.
Dugongs are the archipelago’s most sought-after residents
Explore & stay
Bazaruto Archipelago National Park is open to day visitors and is easily accessible from nearby towns such as Vilankulos and Inhassoro. Visitors will find accommodation options within and around these mainland hubs to suit almost any budget, from backpackers and hostels to private villas and five-star luxury. However, many visitors opt to stay within the park at one of the magnificent lodges tucked away on a private beach.
Want to book your stay in Bazaruto? Ukuri offers lodges in Bazaruto for responsible travellers. Nestled on the untouched shores of Bazaruto Island in Mozambique’s protected archipelago, you’ll find barefoot luxury, endless ocean breezes, and a deep connection to nature that stays with you long after you leave.
Unsurprisingly, most hours are whiled away enjoying the soft white sands of the beaches or exploring the cerulean waters beyond. Hence, activities such as diving, snorkelling, kite surfing or deep-sea fishing are the order of the day. Tiny sailboats transport sun-kissed visitors between islands, stopping over for an intimate picnic on the beach without another living soul in sight. Experienced equestrians can crest the dunes on horseback before galloping through the sea spray, while less-experienced riders can sit back in the saddle and let their horses amble through the lapping waves. Helicopter flips, sunset cruises on local dhows, beach barbeques and dune boarding – this magical section of the Mozambican coast is a tropical beach paradise.
Bazaruto Sands, based on Bazaruto Island, offers easy access to the Archipelago’s activities
For those able to drag themselves from the sea, there are inland hikes past scenic freshwater lakes (many of which are home to Nile crocodiles, so swimming is not advisable!) framed against a backdrop of enormous dunes.
Deciding when to visit is a matter of personal priorities, based on both temperature and seasonal shifts in marine life. The park is at its hottest from October to March, when the whale sharks concentrate around the Bazaruto waters. This is also the rainiest time of the year; December through April is considered cyclone season. Unless the trip is to swim with whale sharks, many travellers prefer to visit during the milder winter months between May and September. The first humpback whales move through Bazaruto in July, with the stragglers departing around October. (For a seasonal calendar of wildlife viewing and weather and up-to-date feedback on research conducted in the area, the Bazaruto Centre for Scientific Studies website is an excellent resource.)
Bazaruto offers ample opportunities for water activities such as stand-up paddleboardingA dhow bobs on the water, playing host to seabirdsTurquoise waters on the Bazaruto Archipelago
A synonym for blue
While it may not include the standard African safari “fare”, there is no question that a sojourn to the Bazaruto Archipelago is defined by a celebration of its spectacular and diverse wildlife. The intoxicating thaumaturgy of water and light accentuates the stunning seascapes supporting rare and endemic marine creatures.
Africa’s wildlife energy flows have dropped by over one-third since 1700.
Ecosystem functions declined sharply as birds and mammals lost ecological power.
Agricultural conversion reduced ecological power by about 60% across sub-Saharan Africa.
Protected areas retained nearly 90% of animal-driven ecosystem functions and energy flows.
Megafauna-driven grazing, browsing and nutrient cycling collapsed outside protected landscapes.
Want to support Africa’s protected areas? Visit Africa’s wilderness areas and support conservation through responsible tourism. We will help you to choose ethical lodges and in turn contribute to local economies helping keep ecosystems functioning and wildlife populations intact. Check out our safari ideas here, or let our travel experts plan a responsible and truly sustainable African safari for you
Africa’s wildlife is doing far less ecological work than it once did. A new study suggests that the decline of birds and mammals – and in particular megafauna such as elephants – is reshaping how ecosystems function. By looking beyond species counts to the energy animals move through landscapes, researchers uncover a deeper shift – one that has implications for how Africa’s ecosystems are changing, and what still remains intact. By measuring energy flows, the researchers show that wildlife decline is draining Africa’s landscapes of ecological power, especially outside protected areas.
A study published in Nature has put a number to something conservationists have long suspected – Africa’s wildlife decline is not only a matter of losing species, but of losing ecological function.
Using an approach based on ecosystem energetics, the researchers found that energy flows through bird- and mammal-driven ecosystem functions across sub-Saharan Africa have declined by more than one-third. In practical terms, the continent has lost a substantial portion of the “ecological power” that animals once provided through feeding, movement, and ecological interactions.
The decline is uneven across land uses, and particularly severe outside of protected areas.
Measuring energy flow
Most large-scale biodiversity indicators track how many species remain, or how their populations have changed. But these measures can be blunt. They treat all species as equal, even though ecosystems do not work that way. A small insect-eating bird and an elephant may both count as “one species”, but they do not contribute equally to how ecosystems function.
To address this, the authors used energy flow as a common currency. Energy is captured by plants and then transferred up the food web as animals feed. The amount of food an animal consumes is a measurable proxy for its ecological influence – because consumption drives grazing pressure, predation, seed dispersal, nutrient cycling, and many other processes. In this study, energy flow was calculated as the annual food energy consumed by each species per unit area.
Dung supports a hidden ecosystem – insects recycle nutrients, sustaining soil function and food webs
The dataset behind the results
The researchers analysed 1,088 mammal species and 1,955 bird species – nearly 3,000 species in total, representing 98% of Africa’s bird and mammal species (excluding seabirds). They modelled historical energy flows under conditions around 1700 CE, a time before major colonial and industrial land transformation had begun, and compared these with modern energy flows shaped by today’s land uses.
To do this, they analysed species range maps, population densities, body size and diet traits, metabolic equations estimating energy expenditure, and biodiversity intactness estimates describing how species abundances change under different land uses. They then grouped species by ecological role, identifying 23 functional groups (11 bird and 12 mammal functions), which were later aggregated into 10 major ecosystem functions.
These functions included grazing and browsing, insectivory (the ecological function of eating insects), seed dispersal, pollination, scavenging, nutrient dispersal, and carnivory (the consumption of animal tissue).
An orange-breasted sunbird feeding in fynbos – pollination is an ecosystem function weakened by land conversion
The key result: Africa’s ecological power has dropped sharply
Across sub-Saharan Africa, the total energy flow through wild birds and mammals has dropped to 64% of historical levels. That means roughly 36% of animal-driven ecological energy has been lost. This decline is not just a biological statistic. It indicates weakening ecological processes, because the animals that drive these processes are consuming less energy overall – either because their populations are smaller, they have disappeared from certain landscapes, or they have been replaced by smaller species with different ecological roles.
Land conversion has the strongest effect
The study found that energy flows fell dramatically in areas converted to intensive human land uses:
Settlements: 27% of historical energy flow remaining
Croplands: 41% remaining
Unprotected untransformed lands (rangelands and near-natural lands): 67% remaining
Strict protected areas: 88% remaining
Croplands and cities were responsible for 25% of the total decline in energy flows across the region. This result links land use change directly to ecosystem function. It suggests that agriculture and urban expansion are not only shrinking wildlife populations – they are reshaping how ecosystems operate.
Protected areas still retain most ecological function
One of the study’s strongest messages is that well-managed protected areas preserve ecological function far better than surrounding landscapes. Strict protected areas retained 88% of historical energy flows. This does not mean protected areas are unchanged, but it does mean that many animal-driven ecosystem functions remain close to intact when wildlife populations are maintained.
The collapse of megafauna functions
The steepest declines were seen in functional groups dominated by megafauna. Large herbivores – including grazers, browsers, and frugivores – historically accounted for more than one-quarter of mammalian energy consumption. Their energy flows have decreased by 72%.
The paper highlights that energy flows through megafauna-dominated functions such as nutrient dispersal, grazing and browsing, and apex carnivory are only 26–32% intact across the region. These are not minor ecosystem roles. Megafauna shape vegetation structure directly through feeding and nutrient release, and indirectly through predator–prey regulation.
Because 80% of Africa is classified as unprotected untransformed land, the wildlife decline, particularly of large herbivores and carnivores, may be altering vegetation patterns at a continental scale.
Elephant and rhino – megafauna that once drove grazing, browsing and nutrient movement across landscape. By measuring energy flows, the researchers show that wildlife decline is draining Africa’s landscapes of ecological power, especially outside protected areas. For more pics from Morgane Sevellec, check out @morgane.frenchrangers
Small animals are becoming more dominant
While megafauna functions collapse, the study shows that African ecosystems are increasingly dominated by smaller species. The proportion of energy consumed by small birds and mammals increased from 69% historically to 78% today. Meanwhile, megafauna (>65 kg) fell from 16% of total energy flow to just 7%.
Passerine birds, including many of Africa’s songbirds, accounted for 8% of historical energy consumption but only 2% of total biomass, indicating that small species play outsized ecological roles. But small animals cannot fully replace the ecological roles of large animals. The authors note that smaller species do not compensate for attributes such as “large seed dispersal and greater daily transport ranges” that are unique to larger wildlife.
In other words, ecosystems may retain activity, but lose key ecological functions that depend on body size and movement across landscapes.
Queleas and wildebeest reflect shifting energy flows: small birds persist as large-herbivore functions decline. A wildlife decline is weakening the ecological functions that sustain ecosystems
Key functions are disappearing outside protected areas
Some ecosystem functions show particularly steep declines.
Seed dispersal and pollination are highlighted as important examples. Seed dispersal is critical because many plants rely on animals to transport seeds away from parent trees, allowing forests and woodlands to regenerate and maintain diversity. Pollination is equally essential for reproduction in many plant species.
The study found that energy flows through seed dispersers are only 58% intact in untransformed lands, and 14% intact in croplands.
Pollination energy flows were 63% intact in untransformed lands and 25% intact in croplands.
These declines suggest that even where vegetation remains, the animal-driven processes that support plant reproduction and recovery may be severely weakened by wildlife declines.
Changes in how biodiversity loss is measured
The researchers argue that traditional measures of biodiversity intactness may overlook substantial functional losses because they treat all species as equally important.
Energy-based analysis changes the picture by showing which species and functional groups carry the most ecological weight.
This approach revealed that biodiversity intactness indices “substantially overestimate the intactness of the megafauna-performed functions”.
In other words, ecosystems may still appear moderately “intact” by standard biodiversity measures, even while critical large-animal functions have collapsed.
Speke’s weavers – small insect-eaters that help sustain energy flow and insect control in African ecosystems.
The bottom line
This study quantifies a continent-wide erosion of ecosystem function by tracking energy flows through nearly 3,000 bird and mammal species across sub-Saharan Africa. Its most important conclusion is stark: the ecological power of Africa’s wildlife has declined by more than one-third. In croplands and settlements, that decline is catastrophic. In protected areas, most ecological function still survives.
The findings reinforce a key conservation message: protecting wildlife is not only about saving species. It is about maintaining the living processes that allow ecosystems to function – processes that are already weakening across much of Africa.
Ebony and ivory: a tale of two collapses – New research reveals how Africa’s forest elephants sustain its darkest wood – and what happens when they vanish
Africa’s lions are disappearing. New research shows that lion populations across the continent have declined by 75% in just five decades. Read more here
Ants sabotage Laikipia’s lions + rhino poaching spin
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
Minister’s triumphant claim ignores the gritty reality of rhino poaching
“16% decline in rhino poaching shows the impact of anti-poaching and anti-trafficking efforts”, says Minister Aucamp (South Africa’s newly appointed environmental minister).
What a load of points-scoring balderdash. Any claim of an overall decline has to be accompanied by a detailed population analysis for each region. Without that detail, the overall statistic is meaningless.
This claim was then repeated ad nauseam by cut-and-paste news media and the usual coterie of talking heads, as they do every year. Lemmings. Until a few years ago, Africa Geographic provided population context for the world’s largest wild rhino population in Kruger National Park, using data published in their annual report. This specific breakdown is no longer available in the reporting, limiting public access to accurate context. Classic mushroom management – keep them in the dark and feed them manure.
KNP lost 175 rhinos to poaching in 2025, compared with 88 in 2024. Double! The SANParks 2024/2025 Annual Report suggests a stable population of over 2,000 rhinos (black and white combined) over the same period. We know that KNP benefited from the translocation of hundreds of white rhinos into the open Greater Kruger landscape through the brave, visionary African Parks Rhino Rewild initiative, which masks the true losses.
Hats off to the hard-working SANParks and private game reserve staff on the ground, bar a few rotten eggs, who continue the toil to keep our rhinos safe while our political leaders treat rhinos and other wildlife species like political and financial collateral.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
African wild dogs are the epitome of hypercarnivores: sinew, stamina and surgical teamwork. Packs and their social structure are built around the hunt.
But in Botswana’s Okavango Delta, an entire pack has been spotted doing something off-brand: eating jackalberry fruits (which, as indicated by the name, are already a firm favourite of jackals). And proper, deliberate, daily fruit snacking at that. All adult dogs within the pack were recorded helping themselves to jackalberry fruit before heading out to hunt. Lower-ranking dogs within the same pack were spotted topping up on the berries throughout the day, likely supplementing their diets because their lower rank meant less reliable access to meat. It’s the first recorded case of fruit-eating in this endangered species. For a species consisting of only about 6,600 adults, flexibility is key to the long-term survival of the species. Nature, again, refuses to stay neatly categorised.
This week, we’re giddy as a shutter on burst mode, and overheating like a camera battery at golden hour, because Photographer of the Year season is starting! Find out more here.
Also this week: how an invasive ant in Kenya is quietly reshaping the savannah and denting lions’ zebra-hunting success, and why Nyungwe National Park’s misty forests might just be Rwanda’s most compelling secret.
ARE YOU READY?
Photographer of the Year 2026 is here. This year’s winners will travel to Rwanda’s Nyungwe National Park, a misty rainforest alive with chimpanzees, other primates, birds and ancient trees. Entries are open 16 February to 7 May 2026. Read more here.
Our stories this week
ANTS AND LIONS
An invasive big-headed ant in Laikipia, Kenya, is altering tree cover, opening the savannah and reducing lions’ hunting success
NYUNGWE NP
Nyungwe NP is one of Rwanda’s best-kept secrets – a magical montane forest hosting chimps & extraordinary biodiversity
Meet a fellow great ape, then relax on a beach. Spend quality time with a habituated gorilla family in Rwanda’s volcanic forest for one of Africa’s most profound wildlife encounters, then unwind in barefoot luxury at a secluded beachfront villa on Zanzibar’s Indian Ocean shores. Seamless connecting flights ensure an effortless journey that balances a life-changing safari experience with time to relax, recharge and reflect.
This safari flattens three bucket-list items in one epic trip – in one country! From searching for the Big 5 in Akagera NP to the forests of Nyungwe NP for chimpanzees, and Volcanoes NP for mountain gorillas. What more could you ask for? Aside from the rare golden monkeys, the Kigali Genocide Memorial and more are also included in this safari.
Meno Moja the elephant (also known as MM1), was added to Tsavo Trust’s database in April 2018. He is a shy, solitary super tusker usually seen from the air. His single tusk is over 7 feet (2.13 metres) long and weighs 50kg (110lbs), and curves to the ground; the missing left tusk was likely broken in a clash. Despite his elusive nature, he embodies the remarkable genes of Tsavo’s legendary elephants.
We have partnered with Tsavo Trust to save some of Africa’s last remaining tuskers. Tsavo Trust monitors and conserves the elephant populations of the Tsavo Conservation Area, specifically focusing on tuskers. An estimated 50–100 tuskers remain in Africa, of which at least 11 reside in Tsavo.
Elephants with tusks that touch the ground are a natural rarity and they are under constant threat from poachers seeking ivory, and trophy hunters actively targeting tuskers (outside of Kenya).
We invite you to support Tsavo Trust by donating via our Guarding Tuskers campaign. Your generous donation will allow their aerial and ground monitoring teams to continue protecting these magnificent elephants.
Magical Majete is one of Malawi’s greatest conservation comeback stories – a wild, waterhole-studded sanctuary where elephants roam, predators prowl, and every game drive feels like a private viewing. And if you’re wondering where to stay while you explore it all… why not base yourself at Thawale Lodge? This fully catered lodge overlooks an active waterhole, with a birdwatching platform for front-row seats to the action. Guests can explore Majete on game drives or boat cruises, both offered directly from the lodge. (00:40) Click here to watch
Aptly referred to as the land of a thousand hills, Rwanda is a country that embodies the genuinely remarkable spirit of Africa. Once torn apart by genocide and bloodshed, the Rwandan people have demonstrated a steely determination in both acknowledging their history and refusing to be defined by it. Some call it the Rwandan miracle: the country’s economy has grown by an average of more than 7% per year since 2000, and poverty levels have declined dramatically. Its people have turned hate and fear into the warmth and generosity of spirit that today epitomises Rwanda.
This forward-thinking, disciplined reconciliatory approach has also bolstered the country’s conservation reputation, supported by a robust tourism industry that continues to go from strength to strength. While gorilla trekking in Volcanoes National Park or a safari in Akagera National Park are both extraordinary experiences in their own right, Rwanda is also home to the largest high-altitude montane forest in East and Central Africa – Nyungwe National Park.
All about Nyungwe
Nyungwe National Park covers 1,019km2 (over 100,000 hectares) of forested mountains, burbling streams, sun-starved valleys, and extensive swamps seemingly hiding a myriad of new species waiting to be discovered (or rediscovered). Though historically established as a reserve in 1933, Nyungwe National Park was only designated as a national park in 2004. In 2020, African Parks entered into a 20-year management partnership with the Rwanda Development Board to oversee the protection and long-term sustainability of this remarkable landscape, strengthening conservation efforts, community development and tourism management.
At the top of the world on Nyungwe’s canopy walk
Nyungwe is tucked in the south-west corner of the country, towering above Lake Kivu and contiguous with Kibira National Park in Burundi to the south. Nyungwe is a biodiversity hotspot bursting with life. As part of the Albertine Rift and ranging in altitude from 1,600–3,000m, it is home to the largest high-altitude montane forest in East and Central Africa – a vitally important habitat in its own right. The land comprises the watershed between the Congo and Nile Rivers and some believe it is home to the most remote source of the Nile River, a stream that originates on Mount Bigugu. Nyungwe also provides a significant portion of Rwanda’s freshwater.
Nyungwe is a primate paradise and home to one of the largest mega-troops of Rwenzori pied colobus monkeys (Colobus angolensis ruwenzori) in Africa
Walking in the canopy
The vast majority of Nyungwe is covered by ancient forests that engender a truly mystical atmosphere and teem with life of every size and shape. In mature tropical forests like those in Nyungwe, the canopy forms a complex aspect of life in the forest. With limited exceptions, human tourists tend not to display the arboreal skills of the primates that they seek and, as a result, were once restricted to exploring the forest floor. However, in 2010, the Rwanda Development Board found a way to lift the tourist experience to new heights by installing a canopy walkway of nearly 160m long, which rises over 70m above the ferns below.
For those unaffected by a fear of heights (and even, perhaps, for those searching for a new and innovative way to overcome them), the three separate bridges offer unparalleled views of one of the most scenic national parks in Africa. This extraordinary vantage point forms part of the Igishigishigi Trail (a word that refers to the tree-ferns below but doubles as a tongue-twister), and the forest below is resplendent, often draped in a blanket of cloud that only adds to a sense of the surreal.
The canopy walk offers breathtaking views of Nyungwe’s scenery
For those seeking a surge of adrenaline to complement Nyungwe’s contemplative forest activities, the park’s zipline delivers a thrilling perspective on the canopy. Spanning an impressive 1,935 metres in total, it is one of the longest ziplines in Africa and is divided into three sections (335m, 580m and 1,020m). Launching near the Uwinka Visitors Centre and concluding close to the canopy walkway, this guided aerial traverse sends you soaring above treetops, valleys and mist-draped forest slopes. It is a rare opportunity to experience Nyungwe from above, wind in your ears, forest stretching endlessly below, offering both panoramic spectacle and a fresh appreciation for the scale of Africa’s largest remaining tract of montane rainforest.
Nyungwe’s 1,935m zipline
Swinging through the canopy
As a mostly forest-dominated park, it is only natural that one of Nyungwe’s significant drawcards is its extensive primate populations and its treetops are dominated by several species of monkey and troops of chimpanzees. There are two habituated troops of chimpanzees within Nyungwe and chimpanzee trekking is popular with visitors. Given the distances chimps can cover at any one point in time, visitors should prepare for an early morning and a long day spent walking through the forest. However, this will be rewarded by an hour spent in close proximity to our closest relatives.
Chimpanzees aside, the other charismatic primates (there are 13 primate species in Nyungwe) can be equally beguiling and entertaining. The owl-faced monkey was only recently confirmed to occur in Nyungwe, and this is one of the only populations of this rare monkey species to occur outside of the Democratic Republic of Congo. The forest is also home to one of the largest mega-troops of Rwenzori pied colobus monkeys in Africa, numbering over 400 of these striking black and white monkeys. This well-habituated mega-troop also attracts the company of a myriad of additional primate species such as the grey-cheeked mangabey, L’Hoest’s, Sykes’, silver and red-tailed monkeys, and the olive baboon. Chimpanzees are also drawn to the colobus monkeys, though for entirely different reasons: food. They hunt the smaller monkey species. An opportunity to witness a chimpanzee raid is a once-in-a-lifetime experience, as the forest explodes into shrieks of terror and the excited howls of the hunting chimps.
L’Hoest’s monkey (Allochrocebus lhoesti)One of the forest’s chimpanzees (Pan troglodytes)
Singing in the canopy
For avid birders, Nyungwe offers one of the finest Afro-montane birding destinations in East Africa. Forest birding is notoriously difficult, which in many ways makes the glimpses of the Albertine Rift endemics even more rewarding (and well worth a slight crick in the neck). As a recognised Important Bird Area, there are over 345 bird species recorded in Nyungwe, including the Albertine owlet, red-collared mountain babbler, and Rockefeller’s sunbird, all Albertine Rift endemics with highly restricted ranges. Every year, keen twitchers laden with binoculars, dog-eared bird books and large lenses flock to the park to boost their birding life-lists.
The birding opportunities are spectacular throughout the park. Still, experienced birders confirm that the park’s western section, with higher rainfall levels and richer soils, offers the best of them. While the search for the red-collared mountain babbler may prove challenging and require a degree of patience, visitors can tick off the mountain masked apalis, Rwenzori turaco, dwarf honeyguide, handsome francolin, and Neumann’s short-tailed warbler along the way. Nowhere else in the Albertine Rift offers such high densities of relaxed birds on the undisturbed trails. For the truly dedicated, there is always the remote chance of joining the ranks of those fortunate enough to have seen a Shelley’s crimsonwing or the Albertine owlet in the wild.
Forest birding is very much dependent on the vocalisations of the various species, which in turn means that a visit to Nyungwe with the intention of bird watching is best timed for when the birds are at their most vocal. This is usually between January and June, with the caveat that certain migratory species will depart around April, which also tends to be the wettest month of the year. Excellent bird guides trained by the Rwandan authorities are at your disposal, including Claver Ntokinyima who resides in, and works for, the park.
Africa Geographic safari expert, and one of Africa’s top birding guides, Christian Boix, returned from Nyungwe with an urge to write Wild Rwanda (with contributions from, amongst others, Claver), the region’s most authoritative “where to find” birds and mammals guide. Its Nyungwe section will be an invaluable tool to set you on the right track to target your most coveted Albertine Rift Endemics and learn as much about this forest gem as possible.
Expert guide Claver Ntokinyima in actionA striking variable sunbird (Cinnyris venustus) in flight
Hidden by the canopy
While the primates and birds tend to take centre stage in Nyungwe, there are in fact over 85 species of mammals wandering the forest paths, climbing the ancient trees, or slinking through the undergrowth. Camera trap studies have revealed that the park is home to an assortment of creatures, from Congo clawless otters to lithe servals and golden cats. Here, even the rodents are fully adapted to arboreal life, and the Lord Derby’s scaly-tailed squirrels glide between trees by extending a membrane between their front and back limbs like true flying squirrels. Recent camera trap studies have also revealed that the rare Central African oyan (related to genets) can be found lurking in the canopy.
The park’s exceptional biodiversity also extends to the oft-overlooked plant life, and there are over 1,100 different recorded plants, of which 250 are endemic to the Albertine Rift. 140 of these plant species are orchids, which add their splashes of colour to the blanket of green and brown around them.
Just a few years ago, Christian was on safari in Nyungwe with AG clients when he noticed an attractive frog hidden in the undergrowth. This particular frog turned out to be the Bururi long-fingered frog (Cardioglossa cyaneospila), a species once thought extinct and only recently rediscovered in Burundi in 2011. It had never before been recorded in NyungweNational Park. (You can read more about Christian’s frog discovery here.) With its dense forests and impenetrable swamps, there is no telling just how many species are still waiting to be discovered in Nyungwe.
The bright-coloured Bururi long-fingered frog (Cardioglossa cyaneospila)A shy bushbuck caught on cameraA chimpanzee munches on wild figs
Everyone’s cup of tea
Tea is one of Rwanda’s largest exports and several major tea plantations – including Kitabi, Gisoyu and Gisakura – are found along the fringes of Nyungwe National Park. Not only do these plantations provide vital employment for local communities and educational experiences for tourists, but they also serve as buffer zones around the park.
Buffer zones are just one part of the Rwanda Development Board’s extensive efforts to protect areas such as Nyungwe from illegal logging, poaching, and the collection of herbal plants for use in traditional medicine. A set percentage of annual park revenue from Nyungwe, Akagera and Volcanoes National Parks is allocated to communities surrounding these protected areas, and a variety of upliftment programmes have been implemented to safeguard their futures.
There are also several beekeeping cooperatives active near the park headquarters. While beekeeping is a traditional practice in the area, beekeeping practices have evolved from subsistence and forest-dependent practices into structured, sustainable enterprises. The members of the cooperatives are now producing additional products such as candles, as well as honey, which are sold to visiting tourists. With support from park management and conservation partners, improved hive techniques now reduce pressure on indigenous trees while increasing honey yields and household income. Those interested in learning more about the surrounding communities’ traditions can also visit the cultural centres and villages, some of which also offer campsites and other facilities.
Beekeeping in NyungweExploring the dense forest via a footbridge
The Nyungwe experience
The dense forests and rugged landscapes of Nyungwe necessitate exploration on foot. An extensive network of immaculately maintained trails offers varying physical difficulty levels, each with its unique attractions, including waterfalls, hidden pools, and breathtaking views. For now, any guest wishing to explore one of these trails will need to book ahead and must be accompanied by one of the professional guides.
The twists and turns of Nyungwe’s impeccable trails reveal fairytale-like secrets
As might be expected for an experience that involves hiking in a rainforest, appropriate footwear is an absolute must – preferably waterproof but, most importantly, worn-in and sturdy. The climate in Nyungwe is relatively mild, with temperatures seldom reaching over 30˚C. Still, it receives high rainfall levels (up to 2,000mm annually), so waterproof gear for valuables is essential. Long trousers and sleeves will protect against the forest’s more intrusive insects, and it is worth keeping in mind that the weather can be capricious and high altitudes mean cold temperatures at times.
Accommodation options around the park are varied, and a trip can be tailored to meet every traveller’s requirement, from luxurious lodges boasting spectacular views and outstanding hospitality to budget campsites, and everything in between. Intrepid travellers with their own transport could also choose to stay on the banks of Lake Kivu and travel to and from the park on relatively good roads.
Deep within the folds of Nyungwe’s ancient forest, a new offering, Munazi Lodge, offers an immersive stay inside the park. This fully catered forest camp, the only lodge inside the national park, features nine ensuite wooden chalets, discreetly positioned beneath towering canopy trees and connected by raised wooden boardwalks. Designed to blend into its surroundings, the central guest area overlooks the forest and includes an airy reception space, dining room, lounge, bar with fireplace, small shop and outdoor firepit – an inviting setting to reflect on the day’s forest adventures. In keeping with Nyungwe’s conservation ethos, much of the lodge and its handcrafted furnishings are built using exotic tree species removed from the park as part of ongoing ecological restoration programmes to encourage indigenous forest regeneration. Unfenced and authentically wild, Munazi lies 5km along forest tracks from the Uwinka Visitors Centre and about a 30-minute drive from Nyungwe National Park headquarters. It is a secluded base for exploring Rwanda’s most celebrated rainforest.
Munazi Lodge
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
Nyungwe is home to the largest protected tract of montane forest in Africa
Watch this informative video on Nyungwe:
The future of the canopy
A safari to Nyungwe is not only an immersion into one of Africa’s most ancient forests – it is also a direct investment in the people who live alongside it. Under African Parks’ management, tourism revenue from camps within the park continue to support a range of community-driven initiatives designed to build long-term sustainability. Local residents are trained and mentored as professional guides, strengthening community tourism programmes and creating skilled employment opportunities linked directly to conservation. Environmental education is another cornerstone: community meetings and school outreach programmes have reached thousands of residents and children, fostering conservation awareness and nurturing the next generation of custodians. Through job creation, skills development and small-scale enterprise support, Nyungwe’s conservation model ensures that protecting the forest also strengthens the resilience and prosperity of the communities who call its fringes home.
The world-famous zoologist and author, Jonathan Kingdon, wrote in his book Island Africa that the mountains of Nyungwe are “Africa’s Galapagos Islands – islands encircled by golden monkeys, gorillas and iridescent sunbirds, by giant Lobelias, everlasting flowers, Ruwenzori turacos and all the questions they raise. They deserve greater recognition, protection and study than they have received so far.”
Some 30 years after these words were written, that is precisely how the Rwandan people have chosen to protect their precious remaining wild spaces and, as a result, the future of one of Africa’s most precious ecosystems – its irreplaceable canopies, mysterious valleys and colourful creatures – has been secured.
Research tip:Wild Rwanda by Africa Geographic director and safari guru Christian Boix is essential reading for your next Rwanda safari
Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda is another leading gorilla trekking destination in Africa. This volcanic landscape offers stunning scenery & biodiversity. Read more here
Time spent with this, our closest cousins in the primate family tree, is a humbling and spiritual experience that is the highlight for most of our experienced travellers. Read more about chimpanzee trekking here
A study from Kenya has documented how an invasive insect, the big-headed ant, is reshaping Laikipia’s savannah landscape, with measurable consequences for some of the region’s most iconic species. Beyond altering the appearance of the landscape, this has long-lasting implications across the ecosystem – from ants, to trees, to elephants, and finally to apex predators. The research shows that the spread of the big-headed ant is indirectly reducing lions’ ability to hunt their primary prey, the plains zebra, by altering the savannah.
A big-headed ant (Pheidole megacephala)
The big-headed ant
The big-headed ant, Pheidole megacephala, is native to islands in the Indian Ocean but has spread widely through global trade and human movement. In Laikipia, Kenya, it has invaded large areas of savannah dominated by the whistling-thorn tree (Vachellia drepanolobium).
These trees rely on a mutualism with native acacia ants of the genus Crematogaster. The trees provide nectar and shelter, and in return, the ants aggressively defend them. The ants physically defend the tree by swarming, biting, and harassing herbivores that attempt to browse it. This defence is particularly effective against elephants. When elephants browse whistling-thorn trees that do not play host to these ants, they can break branches or knock over entire trees.
The study shows that where big-headed ants arrive, they “numerically overwhelm and completely exterminate Crematogaster ants”. Unlike the native ants, the invaders do not protect the trees. As a result, elephants browse and damage trees at “five to seven times the rate” seen in uninvaded areas.
An elephant leaves a waterhole in Ol Pejeta Conservancy, Laikipia
From tree loss to open landscapes
Whistling-thorn trees are a foundation species in much of East Africa’s savannah. In some areas, they account for more than 70% of woody plants, and often far more. Their density shapes how open or closed the landscape is.
As elephants damage unprotected trees, tree cover declines and visibility increases. Experimental plots in the study showed that after three years, visibility in invaded areas was 2.67 times higher than in comparable uninvaded plots where elephants were present.
A clump of whistling-thorn trees in Laikipia. Courtesy of iNaturalist (CC-by-NC)
The study describes a roughly two-decade cascade that began when the big-headed ants arrived in Laikipia in the early 2000s and started spreading at about 50 metres per year, killing native Crematogaster ants. Over the longer term (2003–2020), the extent of dense whistling-thorn habitat steadily declined, transforming parts of the savannah from thick, low-visibility woodland into more open, high-visibility landscapes.
Crematogaster nigriceps ants physically defend the whistling-thorn trees by swarming, biting, and harassing herbivores. Courtesy of iNaturalist (CC-by-NC)
Why lions rely on visibility
Lions in this system in Laikipia are ambush predators. They rely on vegetation cover to approach prey closely before attacking. Plains zebra, which make up around half of the wild ungulates killed by lions at Ol Pejeta Conservancy, are particularly sensitive to visibility because early detection of predators increases their chance of escape.
The researchers tracked lions using GPS collars, mapped zebra densities, and investigated confirmed kill sites between 2003 and 2020. They found that zebra kills were far less likely in areas with higher visibility.
At typical visibility levels, “the probability of zebra kill occurrence was 2.87 times higher in uninvaded than in invaded savannah”. In practical terms, more open landscapes created by ant-driven tree loss reduced lions’ effectiveness at catching zebra. Importantly, the study found no evidence that zebras simply avoided invaded areas or that lions shifted their activity to denser vegetation. Instead, hunting success itself declined where cover was reduced.
Lions suss out a giraffe hunting opportunity in Ol Pejeta, Laikipia
Lion numbers remain stable
Despite killing fewer zebras, lion numbers at Ol Pejeta have remained stable over more than a decade of monitoring. The study explains this stability through prey switching.
As zebras became harder to catch, lions increasingly hunted African buffalo, a larger and more dangerous prey species. From 2003 to 2020, the proportion of lion kills of zebra declined from 67% to 42%, while buffalo increased from 0% to 42% of recorded kills.
This shift occurred even though zebra and buffalo population densities did not show clear directional changes over the period measured. The change reflects altered catchability rather than prey abundance.
Prey switching is a known ecological mechanism that can stabilise predator populations, but it carries costs. Buffalo hunts typically involve larger groups of lions and a higher risk of injury, and the long-term consequences of increased reliance on such prey remain uncertain.
Zebra on the grass plains of Ol Pejeta
Beyond the ants
The study’s central message is not only about lions or ants, but about how invasive species can trigger “hidden but very serious” disruptions. By breaking a single mutualistic relationship, the big-headed ant altered tree cover across the landscape – that physical change reshaped predator-prey interactions at the top of the food chain.
The authors caution that the invasion is ongoing, spreading at roughly 50 metres per year, and that the system has not yet reached equilibrium. While lions have so far compensated through prey switching, “the degree to which such stability can be maintained as big-headed ants advance across the landscape” remains unknown.
No management solution is proposed in the study. Instead, it serves as an alarm. The full consequences for lions, their prey, and the broader savannah ecosystem are still unfolding.
In this case, a small ant has demonstrated the interconnectedness of ecological systems and how readily those connections can be disrupted.
Spotting buffalos on the plains
Reference
Douglas N. Kamaru et al., Disruption of an ant-plant mutualism shapes interactions between lions and their primary prey. Science 383,433-438 (2024). DOI:10.1126/science.adg1464
Our photo awards kick off + Lake Logipi’s flamingos+ magical Cape Town
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
It’s almost time 🙂
Soon, we will be sifting through your Photographer of the Year entries that recharge our awe about this great place we call home. Brace yourselves for a few months of sensational photo galleries and reasons to come on safari!
Later this year, I will host the winners and their partners in Rwanda’s Nyungwe National Park, Africa’s largest protected tract of montane forest. Our base will be Munazi Lodge, the only lodge inside the national park.
Nyungwe hosts 13 primate species, including habituated chimpanzees. I hope to also see oddities such as the golden cat, Lord Derby’s scaly-tailed squirrel, and the rare Central African linsang (related to genets).
And, of course, I will be searching for my nemesis bird species, Shelley’s crimsonwing, which has never been photographed in the wild, other than when accidentally netted during biodiversity surveys.
Life is good!
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Anyone who’s travelled knows the feeling: you’ve learned the words, but not quite the way they’re said. Same language, different rhythm, and suddenly meaning slips sideways.
In northern Mozambique, honey-hunters have been speaking to birds for generations. Greater honeyguides, chatty and impressively sharp, lead people to wild bees’ nests in exchange for wax and larvae. It’s one of nature’s most enduring partnerships.
What researchers have now shown is that the birds have learnt to recognise local dialects. Village by village, the sounds used by honey hunters to call in the honeyguides for a hunt differ: a whoop here, a trill there, a whistle added or dropped. The honeyguides, which tend to ignore unfamiliar calls, have learnt to associate specific, locally used human calls with cooperation, responding specifically to these. This is one of the rarest examples yet of a wild animal learning and navigating human cultural variation.
This week, we share the news of excellent lesser flamingo numbers recorded in Lake Logipi, Kenya. Plus, we explore the wonders that vibrant, magical Cape Town offers.
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
LOGIPI’S FLAMINGOS
Nearly a million lesser flamingos have been counted in the remote Suguta Valley, revealing Lake Logipi as a conservation refuge
CAPE TOWN
Cape Town is a nature lover’s playground, offering cultural diversity, city adventure, and bliss for food and wine aficionados
Expect to be romanced, seduced and awed by three prime locations and effortless luxury. This exquisitely crafted 11-day luxury journey through Southern Africa combines the vibrant culture and scenic beauty of Cape Town and its renowned Winelands, with the unparalleled Big Five safari experience of the Greater Kruger, and iconic Victoria Falls: The Smoke That Thunders.
This popular safari romances you with the Mother City’s hip restaurants, sandy white beaches, outdoor adventures, historic wine estates and iconic landmarks, before sweeping you off your feet in the Okavango Delta for a top-drawer safari experience.
AG safari guest James from the USA went on an exceptional African safari:
“2024 Namibia & Botswana & Zimbabwe Adventure. In May/June 2024, I travelled for 25 days through Namibia, Botswana and Zimbabwe on a structured tour of my own design, scheduled by Christian Boix of Africa Geographic. My tour far exceeded all anticipation. I saw hundreds of elephants, zebras, buffalos and different species of antelope, many lions, hippos and giraffes, as well as hyenas & warthogs. I saw various birds, like secretarybird and kori bustard, one elusive cheetah, AND a rhino pair with a baby! Early on in Namibia, I visited a Himba tribal village and later a Bushman village, and went on a snare patrol and medicinal plant search. I watched the Bushmen make hunting arrows. In Botswana, I boated through the Okavango Delta. In Zimbabwe, I visited the ancient Great Zimbabwe ruins, which were the ultimate focal point of my trip. Most documentaries and writings only depict the Great Enclosure in the valley, which is where the queen and her entourage lived. I hiked the steep, winding stone trail up the mountaintop to the king’s palace. SPECTACULAR! The king’s palace is a must-see! Many thanks to Christian Boix for organising my trip. My different country guides were wonderful young men, extremely familiar with their surroundings and knowledgeable on wildlife. I highly recommend planning an African tour through Africa Geographic, and requesting Christian Boix to assist – if he is not himself out there leading an adventure!”
Our Photographer of the Year 2026 is back! Win a primate-filled adventure to Rwanda’s Nyungwe National Park, with chimpanzee trekking, canopy walks and a stay at Munazi Lodge. Submit your best images – and let Africa take you further. (04:37) Click here to watch
Nestled between a rugged mountain range and the Atlantic Ocean, Cape Town is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. It’s also one of the most popular tourist destinations in all of Africa. This multicultural city enjoys a superb natural setting, pristine beaches, sophisticated infrastructure and a mild, Mediterranean climate.
According to Xhosa legend, a great battle once raged between the god Qamatha, and Nkanyamba, the sea dragon, over the creation of dry land. Qamatha’s mother came to his aid by creating four giants to defend the points of the compass. With the battle won, the giants turned to stone to guard the land for eternity. Umlindi Wemingizimu, the “Watcher of the South”, looks down on the city of Cape Town as Table Mountain.
Cape Town
The looming form of Table Mountain dominates views from the city that is sandwiched between its edifice and the icy Atlantic Ocean. The capricious seas are tamed by the harbour of the aptly named Table Bay – a gateway to South Africa that sets the stage for a rich history and melting pot of colourful cultures. Situated in South Africa’s southwestern corner, Cape Town is one of the country’s largest cities and most popular tourist destinations – for good reason. It offers a curious combination of laid-back beach town and edgy urban expression.
The cosmopolitan atmosphere is offset by spectacular natural surroundings that captivate locals and visitors. From the rich plant life of the Cape Floristic Region (more on that later) to the abundant marine ecosystems and pristine white beaches, Cape Town is a nature enthusiast’s playground. With the addition of every convenience of modern city life blended with a history of transformation, the result is a traveller’s paradise.
The cable car ride to the top of Table Mountain offers incredible views of the city and beyondOverlooking Camps Bay
Table Mountain (and friends)
People often describe the topographical set-up of Cape Town as “armchair-like”, with the sprawling City Bowl nestled in the seat. The “chair” consists of the northern end of the Cape Fold Mountain range that extends along the Cape Peninsula to the Cape of Good Hope. The back of the chair is formed by the iconic Table Mountain, with Lion’s Head to the west and Devil’s Peak to the east, creating the arms on either side. This natural amphitheatre forms the iconic backdrop to the city below, while the opposite side, the “Back Table”, includes the gentler eastern slopes of some exquisite conservation areas. The Back Table’s western edge (the Atlantic side) is home to the Twelve Apostles.
The view of Cape Town from Bloubergstrand beach
Table Mountain is a significant tourist attraction and one of South Africa’s most photographed landmarks. The top section includes a plateau over 1,000m above sea level and roughly three kilometres long. Here, visitors can stroll along a network of paths to take in the spectacular views from every angle before stopping for a snack at the restaurant (or a sugary drink to steady the nerves of the vertiginous and wind-swept mountain). The easiest way to access this mountain is via the cableway, which has been operational since 1929 (though it has undergone many modernisations and safety upgrades since then), and the five-minute journey in the transparent cablecar allows for plenty of time to take a multitude of photographs. Naturally, the view is occasionally obscured by orographic clouds which form when South-Easter winds blow in from the sea, ascend the cliffs and condense in the cooler air. This tablecloth of clouds is guaranteed to rouse a local raconteur from somewhere. They will then promptly launch into the headache-inducing tale of a smoking contest between retired bad boy buccaneer Jan Van Hunks and the devil himself. Nearby Devil’s Peak also owes its name to this Dutch folk story.
Table Mountain National Park, along with several other surrounding protected areas, Lion’s Head (and the lion’s rump, Signal Hill) and Devil’s Peak are all crisscrossed by a series of well-established hiking trails of various difficulty levels. Most popular routes can be accessed free of charge, though some require a relatively inexpensive permit. Of all of Cape Town’s many drawcards, the hiking opportunities are probably at the top of the deck. From casual ramblers to skilled adventure-seekers, there are trails on offer for anyone wishing to revel in the breathtaking vistas. It is important to plan these hikes ahead of time and travel in a group to ensure the enjoyment and safety of all concerned, as the weather in Cape Town is famously unpredictable.
Protea fynbos at Silvermine Nature Reserve
Fynbos and the Cape Floral Region
Part of what makes the scenery so special is the unique, astonishingly diverse plant life of the Cape region. Endangered (and in some cases critically endangered) fynbos types dominate the scrubland vegetation, with probably the most famous species being the dramatic proteas (South Africa’s national flower). The flora belongs to the smallest of the six recognised floral kingdoms: the Cape Floristic Kingdom. It comprises 9,000 highly endemic vascular plant species, of which around 80% belong to fynbos families. While the Cape Floristic Region covers less than 0.5% of Africa’s surface area, it is home to nearly 20% of the continent’s plant species. For this reason, Table Mountain National Park and seven other representative regions are the “Cape Floral Region Protected Areas” – a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
One of the best places to take in this spectacular array is in Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, which nestles against the eastern edge of the Back Table. The world-famous garden was first established to preserve the native flora of the region, but has now extended to include cultivated exhibits of representative vegetation types from throughout the country. The many paths and displays should not be rushed, and visitors should set aside at least a day for exploring this hotspot of natural and cultivated beauty. Several trails lead up into the mountains, including Skeleton Gorge, one of the most accessible routes to the top of Table Mountain.
The Boomslang Canopy Trail at Kirstenbosch
Chapman’s Peak and the Cape of Good Hope
The next tick off the Cape Town checklist has to be a round trip along the Cape Peninsula via the picturesque town of Hout Bay and winding Chapman’s Peak Drive. Though Chapman’s Peak Drive comes with a small toll, the views along the road cut into the side of the eponymous mountain are well worth the price. The precipitous cliffs plunge to the rocks below, which in turn are battered by the waves of the ocean. The drive is also an excellent place to look for whales from around August until November.
An elegant view over Hout Bay from Tintswalo AtlanticIconic Chapman’s Peak Drive
A journey through the Cape Peninsula needs to be conducted at a sedate pace (this principle applies to Cape Town in general – see more below), with plenty of time set aside to explore the quaint seaside villages and beaches along the coastline. Arty seaside haunts like Noordhoek, Kommetjie and Fish Hoek are lined with boutique shops, tiny galleries, and family-run restaurants. Simon’s Town, a naval base, is also famous for Boulders Beach and Foxy Beach and their resident African penguin colonies. Boulders Beach is one of the most accessible and protected viewing sites for African penguins in existence. These endangered little characters are found only on the southwestern coast of Africa and are completely habituated to the comings and goings of eager tourists. However, it is well worth remembering that while the penguins will allow people to get incredibly close, there is a limit to their forbearance and a bite from the razor-sharp, fishy beak of a penguin will not be readily forgotten.
Members of the African Penguin colony at Boulders Beach in South Africa gather at the water’s edge
The southernmost 20% of the Cape Peninsula is a section of Table Mountain National Park known as the Cape of Good Hope. This rugged and wild ecosystem is a haven for many different species of seabirds. To make things a touch confusing, Cape of Good Hope is also used to refer to the rocky headland on the southwestern tip of the Cape Peninsula, while Cape Point and its two lighthouses occupy the south-eastern tip. Contrary to popular belief, this is not the southernmost point of the African continent (that title goes to Cape Agulhas further east), nor does it mark the exact spot where the warm Agulhas Current of the Indian Ocean and cold Benguela Current of the Atlantic meet. Though it is undoubtedly true that the intermingling of these two monstrous currents contributes to the micro-climate of Cape Town, their actual meeting point fluctuates and is usually closer to Cape Agulhas.
Cape Point
Beaches and bays
After a few strenuous hikes and activity-filled seaside town visits, a day on the beach is called for, and Cape Town has a number of stunning options. The beaches offer everything from dazzling white sands and turquoise waters to ample space and calm coves. The accompanying promenades are usually filled with joggers, courting couples and happy families. There is only one minor drawback – the water is my-feet-have-turned-numb-and-my-shins-hurt cold. Fortunately, during the blistering summers, a refreshing dip is precisely what is called for. Some of the more famous beaches include Clifton 1-4, Camps Bay, Llandudno, Muizenberg (warmer water and a great place for novice surfers), Long Beach and Bloubergstrand (both popular kite-surfing spots). During the height of the tourist season (December and January), these beaches can be pretty crowded, and it may well be worth befriending a local to get inside information on the less frequented options.
Clifton Beach in Camps Bay
Though the cold seas do not necessarily make for the best casual swimming, they provide the ideal environment for a plethora of marine life. This is because cold water holds more dissolved oxygen than warm water, supporting greater ecological diversity. Firm favourites with visitors are the Cape fur seals, which are regularly encountered sunning themselves around the waterfront. For a more authentically wild experience, visitors can take a trip to Seal Island in False Bay, where tens of thousands of fur seals gather together in a noisy, smelly, pinniped extravaganza.
Massive granite boulders covered in a variety of colourful marine species, creating cave-like spaces and swim-throughs for species such as the Cape fur seal
Of course, the seals are not the only predators that navigate the icy waters, and they need to keep a sharp eye out for sharks. Once considered the great-white-shark capital of the world, with photographers flocking to capture their famous “breach”, there has been a distressing reduction in the number of shark sightings around Cape Town in recent years.
A great white shark hunts Cape fur seals in False Bay
Eat, drink and be merry
The city itself is as vibrant and diverse as the natural world that surrounds it. Each neighbourhood comes with its own particular ambience, ranging from laidback (bordering on horizontal) to hip and happening, to arty and urbane, to kitsch and shiny. It is not uncommon to arrive at a coffee shop only to find that, in defiance of regular business hours, it is closed because the owner is off surfing.
Cafe culture in Cape Town City Centre
There is an endless array of cosy cafes to experience and a collection of some of the best seafood restaurants the world has to offer. The kaleidoscopic nightlife is usually in full swing for the younger crowd in one of Cape Town’s five major party precincts. The Victoria & Alfred Waterfront at the harbour offers a more sedate and classy collection of shops, museums, and accommodation.
The Victoria and Alfred Hotel at the V&A Waterfront
Beyond the city itself, several signature experiences define a Cape Town journey. Just inland, the historic Cape Winelands of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek offer world-class wine tasting set against a backdrop of dramatic mountain scenery, where centuries-old estates pair acclaimed vintages with exceptional cuisine. Here, against the verdant background of mountains and valleys, wine enthusiasts can enjoy the best of South Africa’s celebrated bouquets, and amateurs can pretend to be able to tell the difference. Whatever the experience levels, a good time is guaranteed for all.
The magical grounds of Babylonstoren Farm in the winelands of Franschhoek
Colourful Cape Town
As lively as various parts of Cape Town are, Bo-Kaap takes home the prize as the most colourful area – quite literally. Situated at the foot of Signal Hill, Bo-Kaap was once home to the city’s slave population, most of whom hailed from Malaysia and Indonesia. The old buildings that line the cobbled streets were built in a mix of Cape Dutch and Georgian architectural styles and are painted in a wondrous combination of just about every colour imaginable. The effect is both beautiful and joyful, despite the area’s troubled history.
A more sombre Cape Town activity that is, nevertheless, an essential part of any visit is a trip to Robben Island and a tour of the prison where Nelson Mandela spent 27 years incarcerated, along with many other apartheid dissidents. The site operates as a living museum and is a World Heritage Site due to its importance to South Africa’s turbulent history.
The colourful facades of the Bo-Kaap
Explore & Stay
There are so many reasons to visit Cape Town that the difficulty lies in deciding how best to spend one’s time there, especially for shorter stays. Fortunately, navigating the city is a relatively painless experience, and public transport is readily available in the inner city. The city has MyCiTi buses and various private taxi operations. Rental cars and private transfers are also a good option for exploring the area and its surroundings more broadly. It is essential to remember that, despite being one of South Africa’s main hubs, Cape Town retains a relaxed seaside-town vibe, and the pace is relatively serene. The best course of action is to have a rough plan in mind, but be flexible in the execution.
There are many accommodation options, ranging from backpackers for the budget-strapped to ultra-luxury guest houses and hotels situated right on the sea.
Unlike most of South Africa, Cape Town is a winter rainfall region, and from June until the beginning of September, the weather is blustery and cold. However, July/August marks the peak whale watching season when both southern right and humpback whales gather to calve in the calm waters of the bays. The busiest time of year falls over the December/January period when the weather is spectacular, and the long, balmy days can be enjoyed to the full. Both South African and international tourists flock to the city at this time of year, and the beaches and major attractions can be very crowded.
A Constantia vineyard – in the suburbs of Cape Town
It may well be best for those with a more flexible schedule to wait until February or even March when visitor numbers calm down, and prices drop, but the weather remains idyllic. The second “shoulder season” falls around September/October, and this is arguably the time of year when the city is at its most spectacular. This is when the wildflowers bloom, adding bright patches of glorious colour to the landscape. It is important to remember that even during these spring months, the Cape Town weather may still have a few tricks up its sleeve, and it’s not uncommon for a cold front to barrel in and deposit snow on the inland mountain tops.
Cape Town is one of Africa’s most evocative tourism destinations – a first-world city steeped in history in one of the most magnificent natural settings imaginable.
Wining and dining at Boschendal in the Cape Winelands
For more than half a century, Kenya’s Suguta Valley was dismissed as empty – too remote, too harsh, too insecure to matter. Then, in late 2024, a routine aerial survey over an alkaline desert lake rewrote that story in a single, astonishing sight: nearly a million flamingos, gathered in a vast pink city on Lake Logipi, successfully breeding in one of the least-studied landscapes in East Africa. What was once considered a biological blank spot is now emerging as a place of global conservation importance – and a critical refuge at a time when many of the region’s iconic flamingo lakes are faltering.
In the remote, arid stretches of Kenya’s northern Rift Valley lies Lake Logipi, an alkaline desert lake within the rugged expanse of the Suguta Valley. For decades, its biodiversity significance remained largely unknown; the valley’s harsh climate, extreme remoteness and a history of insecurity meant that no systematic surveys had been conducted here for over 50 years. However, that changed in late 2024, when an aerial survey revealed that the lake hosted an estimated 737,000 lesser flamingos, and, remarkably, the massive congregation has persisted through most of 2025, with evidence of successful breeding.
“This survey is a landmark,” says Fleur Ng’weno, a prominent Kenyan ornithologist. “Almost a million lost flamingos have been found.” Indeed, the fact that such vast numbers of birds went unnoticed highlights how much remains potentially hidden in one of Kenya’s most remote deserts.
Lesser flamingos
A survey of lesser flamingos, 50 years in the making
Following unusually heavy rains during the 2024 long rains, ephemeral pools and algal blooms created ideal feeding conditions for lesser flamingos in Lake Logipi. By December, the lake had transformed into a sprawling pink city, visible even from high above. To document this natural spectacle, a coalition of conservationists led by Dr Richard Lamprey, with support from Conserve Global, the Wildlife Research & Training Institute (WRTI) and the National Museums of Kenya (NMK), undertook the first-ever systematic aerial photographic survey of Lake Logipi in December 2024.
Flying at 1,400 feet, the survey captured 3,000 high-resolution images. The analysis estimated approximately 737,000 lesser flamingos (with the true number between 577,000 and 897,000). The main flock extends 9km in length and 500m in width, representing 30–50% of the entire East African lesser flamingo population. This makes it one of the largest flocks ever systematically counted using aerial photography in East Africa, and the largest recorded in Kenya in the past two decades. The survey also recorded 1,196 greater flamingos and 27,790 pelicans (mostly great white).
Aerial view of lesser flamingos in Lake Logipi
Dr Lamprey and his team employed semi-automated digital image analysis, using a method that has been successfully applied to count medium and large-sized mammals in Kenya and Uganda. This included stitching and processing images using Microsoft Image Composite Editor; automated counting using ImageJ software (as flamingos could be distinguished against the lake’s distinct brown-green waters), with counts validated by human observers; and species differentiation of lesser and greater flamingos based on pixel size, demonstrating a novel and pioneering method for distinguishing species from aerial imagery.
Alongside the flamingo work, Conserve, NMK, WRTI, and other scientists working with local communities carried out the first comprehensive biodiversity surveys in the Suguta Valley since the 1960s and 70s. These documented plants, reptiles, amphibians, small mammals, fish, invertebrates and birds, including a previously unrecorded breeding colony of Critically Endangered Rüppell’s vultures. Many species were recorded in the valley for the first time, confirming that Suguta Valley is a biodiversity landscape of exceptional importance.
Scientists from the Initiative for Suguta Valley Development (ISVD) in the field
Throughout 2025, observers confirmed that large flamingo congregations persisted at Lake Logipi, with evidence of successful breeding in both 2024 and 2025. This is of exceptional significance at a time when many of East Africa’s alkaline lakes, including Bogoria, Nakuru and Elmentaita, are becoming less suitable habitats for flamingos due to climate-driven changes in rainfall and salinity. Against this backdrop, Lake Logipi may represent a critical refuge for a species under increasing regional pressure.
Once dense with lesser flamingos, Lake Bogoria is becoming less suitable for the flocks
Rural development and conservation in Suguta Valley
The significance of these surveys extends far beyond their ecological value. They were initiated as part of a broader rural development and conservation project led by Conserve Global in partnership with a local community-based organisation, the Initiative for Suguta Valley Development (ISVD). The project was launched only in late 2023, but it is already making great strides in rural development and conservation in this remote area.
ISVD, representing local Turkana communities, has been central to this work and is embedded in the community with unit management committees covering different parts of the valley, who coordinate project implementation. So far, the project has improved access to clean water in three villages including drilling or rehabilitating boreholes, installing solar pumps and building large storage tanks; supported over 190 students over two years with education bursaries; recruited 24 local community members, including field monitors who are gathering information on wildlife sightings, environmental threats and human-wildlife conflict; and invested in peace-building between neighbouring ethnic groups, providing a platform for dialogue and conflict resolution. The organisation is also engaging with tourism operators to ensure benefits flow to local communities.
Turkana women in Suguta Valley
Conservation recognition and community stewardship
Lake Logipi, and the Suguta Valley more broadly, were long written off as too remote, inhospitable, or insecure for meaningful conservation or community investment. The 2024–2025 surveys have highlighted its global importance for biodiversity, with significant implications for flamingo conservation. The evidence from these surveys now strongly supports formal recognition of Lake Logipi and the more expansive Suguta Valley as a site of international conservation importance – potentially as a Key Biodiversity Area, UNESCO World Heritage Site, or another globally recognised designation. Such recognition would not only safeguard critical habitat for flamingos and other species but also strengthen community-led conservation and support sustainable livelihoods.
The work now carried out by Conserve, ISVD, and their partners since 2024 is beginning to tell a very different story: of a globally significant ecosystem rediscovered through science and that can be safeguarded in the long term through community stewardship.
Dr Juliet King is Project Manager for Conserve Global’s Suguta Valley project. Juliet is a zoologist with over 20 years of experience working with indigenous communities in Kenya to advance conservation and sustainable natural resource management. She has supported the establishment of community conservancies and authored national guidelines for conservancy development. Juliet has developed community-managed ecological monitoring tools for terrestrial and marine ecosystems and works to strengthen community-based natural resource management by empowering local institutions to govern land and resources. Her approach integrates traditional knowledge systems with contemporary policy and legislation. She has supported community-led sanctuaries for critically endangered species, including black rhino, hirola antelope, and Rothschild’s giraffe, and is committed to ensuring conservation benefits indigenous communities equitably and sustainably.
Conserve Global – www.conserveglobal.earth – was founded in 2020 as a not-for-profit NGO to breathe new life into Africa’s overlooked wildscapes—the vital lands that knit together the continent’s great ecosystems. Our landscapes encompass vacant concessions, former trophy-hunting areas, and under-resourced community conservation zones. For these wild places to thrive, they must matter – socially, economically, and politically. Conservation must contribute meaningfully to Africa’s development. And when communities rise as guardians of their heritage, nature finds its future. Using a decentralised model of in-country subsidiaries for each landscape engagement, Conserve Global currently has a portfolio of projects in Cameroon, Kenya, Mozambique, Namibia and Angola
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
We know that governments the world over cannot fight their way out of a brown paper bag. They are usually run along ideological lines by con artists, zealots and egomaniacs.
Every now and then, a ruler and their government go against the grain and use their term for good, for the betterment of their people and environment. Not the Botswana government, which has just opened up the following 2026 trophy hunting quotas, amongst other species:
97 leopards and 9 lions (populations unknown)
430 large-tusked elephants
Don’t be fooled by talk of how minuscule this elephant quota is (0.3% of the regional elephant population). Trophy hunters are after mature bulls with large tusks, which make up a small proportion of the population. This quota could reduce bulls aged over 30 by almost 25%, and bulls over 50 by 50%. Mature bulls are biologically and socially significant, guiding younger males, maintaining social order and contributing the majority of successful breeding. We estimate only 84+ tuskers (elephants with 100-pound tusk/s) remain across the entire continent, of which 59+ are in Southern Africa. The elephant hunting season has been extended to cover most of the year, despite the ongoing violent deaths of local people caused by agitated elephants.
The above quotas were arrived at in the face of either zero or contrary scientific data, at the behest of a shady foreign pro-trophy-hunting organisation known as Conservation Force. Were palms greased along the way?
How do we stop this wanton slaughter of our free-roaming wildlife? No, the answer is not tourism boycotts (which bolster the hunting industry). We fight back by showing decision-makers that photo tourism is the only viable option. You know what to do.
A lion with one eye and three legs is thriving, despite the odds. In Uganda’s Queen Elizabeth National Park, infirmities like these usually mark the end of a hunting career. After Jacob the lion lost a hind leg to a poacher’s snare, as well as an eye to a brawl, most experts expected him to scavenge or rely entirely on other lions for food. Yet this eleven-year-old male has endured.
We reported on Jacob months ago when he and his brother Tibu made a record swim across the crocodile-filled Kazinga Channel in search of lionesses. But that’s not where Jacob’s talents ended. New thermal drone footage now explains how Jacob has continued to hunt successfully: by acting like a leopard. Unable to chase prey over longer sprints, Jacob hunts from dense cover, ambushing at close range and targeting smaller prey lions are less likely to pursue – just like his distant spotted cousins might do. And aside from hunting for himself, he also helps his brother lay ambushes for giant forest hogs. Such adaptation is rare, but survival can demand reinvention, even for top predators.
This week, we unveil a powerful gallery by our Photographer of the Year 2025 winner, Christina Schwenck, in a striking celebration of Africa’s wildlife. We also unpack the regional Mammal Red List update, with 11 Southern African species uplisted and extinction risks rising. Read these stories below.
Yours in wild adventure,
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Our stories this week
EPIC PHOTOS
Explore a gallery of incredible African wildlife photos from our Photographer of the Year 2025 winner, Christina Schwenck
MAMMALS AT RISK
11 Southern African mammals have been uplisted in the 2025 Mammal Red List regional update, signalling rising extinction risk
This journey blends Kenya’s wildlife, culture and hands-on experiences. Explore the Maasai Mara with Maasai guides, be immersed in Samburu life and blacksmithing, visit Reteti Elephant Sanctuary, and experience Laikipia ranches where people and wildlife coexist. Scenic flights connect remote landscapes, creating a relaxed, authentic safari rooted in respect and tradition.
Experience Mana Pools on an old-school safari, from the Zambezi floodplains to Rukomechi cliffs, with walking, canoeing and slow game drives. Stay in two superb camps, enjoying encounters with elephants, hippos, crocodiles and predators, guided to slow down, look closer, and truly become part of this revered wilderness.
Since mid-2024, eight leopards have been killed on the roads of Hoedspruit, Limpopo, in South Africa. These losses are a devastating blow to the local leopard population’s genetic health. To stop this tragic trend, the Ingwe Research Program launched the Road Ecology Project, to identify roadkill hotspots and safe wildlife crossings – vital data for lasting solutions.
Africa Geographic recently joined the Ingwe Research Program, together with SANRAL (South African National Roads Agency), to install predator-crossing signs at roadkill hotspots on the R40. These signs aim to encourage drivers to pay more attention when travelling on roads that pass through wildlife havens.
You can support Ingwe’s work through our Spots on the Line campaign to fund fieldwork, camera traps, and data analysis that could save leopards. No matter how modest, your donation will drive leopard conservation forward. Together, we can keep South Africa’s leopards roaming free.
WATCH
From the Great Migration to the iconic tuskers of Amboseli, Kenya stirs the soul. Witness lions and hyenas on the hunt, Grevy’s zebras in the wild north, and coastal magic in Watamu. Find inspiration for your Kenya safari here. (0:49) Click here to watch
Africa is a continent of wonders – natural and human alike. From such an extraordinary array of offerings, one might be hard-pressed to select the ultimate bucket-list of African wildlife experiences, but that is precisely what we have put our minds together to produce.
Behold our choices of the top African wildlife experiences:
1. Go eye to eye with gorillas
Those that have had the good fortune to spend time with wild gorillas speak of it as a profound, almost transcendental experience. Something in their expressions speaks to the heart of what it means to be a sentient being. It becomes even more meaningful knowing that every visit significantly contributes to these majestic animals’ survival.
Witness the sentience of a mountain gorilla up close
2. Experience the beautiful chaos of the Great Migration
There is no other way to describe the Great Wildebeest Migration but as a natural spectacle of extraordinary proportions. No words nor pictures can fully capture the sheer magnitude of millions of animals moving across the vast plains on their endless journey in search of fresh grasses. From the miraculous birthing season to the chaos of the river crossings, the Great Migration is a primal display of nature at its most raw.
Where? Follow the herds north through Serengeti National Park in Tanzania to the Maasai Mara in Kenya and the treacherous river crossings en route, or await their return to the southern calving grounds in Serengeti and the Ngorongoro Conservation Area.
The Great Migration is a top experience on the ultimate African safari bucket list
3. Search for the black ghosts of Laikipia
Melanistic leopards are a rarity in Africa, and those that allow more than just a fleeting glimpse even more so. A few years ago, a desire to see a black ‘panther’ in Africa would have seemed almost laughable. Yet, black leopards seem to thrive in the heart of Kenya and careful, ethical habituation in Laikipia has ensured that sightings are a regular occurrence.
Where? There is more than one black leopard wandering the wilds of Laikipia. Laikipia does not stint on comfortable accommodation, though there are options available to suit tighter budgets. There are a number of either community-owned or community-operated lodges for conscience-driven travellers available as well.
Seeking out a rare black leopard is one of the most thrilling African wildlife experiences
4. Convene with giants in Tsavo and Amboseli
The greater Tsavo-Amboseli ecosystem in Kenya is home to Africa’s last notable population of big tuskers. These magnificent elephants – whose tusks reach the ground – are among the last of their kind, fiercely protected by dedicated conservationists.
Where? Many of the largest elephants roam the Tsavo East and West national parks, shaded red by the area’s famous dust. Further south, Amboseli National Park offers the opportunity for awe-inspiring photographs against the iconic backdrop of looming Mount Kilimanjaro as you commune with these giant elephants.
A magnificent tusker and companion march through Tsavo – their skin stained with the characterstic red Tsavo sands
5. Stalk the mountains with wolves
On the roof of Africa, Ethiopian wolves stalk the heather in search of their mole rat prey. These gorgeous predators, adorned in russet coats, are one of the most endangered large carnivores in the world – occupying a perilous niche at Afroalpine altitudes. Here, at dizzying heights and surrounded by some of the most unusual scenery in Africa, they share their space with the ubiquitous (but endlessly entertaining) geladas and more elusive walia ibexes.
Where? To set off on this rare African wildlife experience, head to the Simien Mountains National Park and the Bale Mountains of Ethiopia, which host the last population “strongholds” of the Ethiopian wolf.
An Ethiopian wolf stalks off with its ice rat prey in the Bale Mountains
6. Waddle with the penguins of the Cape
There is something so delightfully incongruous about the sight of penguins wandering the beaches amongst bikini-clad tourists at the height of the blazing Cape Town summers in South Africa. Yet the charismatic African penguins of Simon’s Town have well and truly made themselves at home and, in so doing, become the town’s most sought-after attractions.
Where? Boulder’s and Foxy Beaches in Simon’s Town or Stony Point Nature Reserve in Betty’s Bay usually have some penguins present year-round, though the best time to find them is between December and May.
An African penguin observing onlookers at Boulders Beach, Simon’s Town, South Africa
7. On foot with wild dogs of Mana Pools
Few wildlife encounters rival the thrill of seeing African wild dogs in their element. With their frenetic energy, complex social bonds and beautifully choreographed hunts, painted wolves are endlessly compelling to watch – and never predictable. In Mana Pools National Park, these iconic predators have become a defining feature of the wilderness experience, famed for their remarkable tolerance of people on foot, which allows for extraordinarily intimate encounters and rare photographic perspectives. Equally spellbinding are the wild dogs of the Okavango Delta, where vast floodplains and mosaic habitats provide the stage for dramatic hunts and dynamic pack interactions, often unfolding in open, light-filled landscapes. Together, Mana Pools and the Okavango stand among Africa’s finest places to witness one of the continent’s most charismatic and endangered predators at their very best.
Where?Mana Pools National Park in Zimbabwe, especially during their winter denning season from around May to September. This mirrors the denning season in Okavango Delta, Botswana, which also takes place in those same months, when vegetation is sparse and sightings are most reliable.
Playful wild dog pups take a moment’s downtime in Mana Pools National Park
8. Search for the desert-adapted lions of Namibia
Though life for all wild animals involves a delicate balance on the knife-edge of survival, those that live in the extremes are remarkable for their resilience. In a land of savage beauty, the lions of the Namib Desert have adapted to a harsh existence with limited prey and less water. Phantom-like, these hardy cats prowl the beaches of the aptly named Skeleton Coast and pad gracefully across the sands of the inland dunes.
Where? These lions roam the Skeleton Coast, Damaraland and inland riverbeds of the northwestern corner of Namibia. Read more about conservation efforts aiding these lions here.
A desert-adapted lioness, collared for scientific research, strides across the harsh landscape. Namibia
9. Meet the marvels of Madagascar
Madagascar is a land that has been isolated for millions of years and, as a result, is an island of endemic marvels. As wildlife experiences go, the Madagascan one is both fascinatingly weird and captivatingly wonderful. From dense tropical forests to jagged rock faces, this massive island is a tapestry of vastly different habitats, each replete with its quirky inhabitants. From wide-eyed and endearing lemurs (over 100 species of them!) and slinking fossa to leaf-shaped reptiles and birds of every conceivable colour, Madagascar is a kaleidoscope of oddities.
Where? The island’s sheer size means that every trip should be tailored to particular interests. Each story in our four-part Madagascar series (scroll down in the story to access the other three regions) is dedicated to a different corner of the island.
A Verreaux’s sifaka – a primate in the lemur family – photographed near Fort Dauphin (Taolagnaro) in Madagascar
10. See bats darken the skies of Kasanka
The Great Migration of East Africa may be one of Africa’s spectacles. Still, in terms of sheer numbers, it pales in comparison to the abundance of the Kasanka Bat Migration – the largest migration of mammals on earth.
Where? Every year between October and December, African straw-coloured fruit bats descend in their millions upon a tiny patch of swamp in Zambia’s Kasanka National Park, filling the skies and ladening the fruit trees upon which they feed.
Every evening during the Kasanka Bat Migration, African straw-coloured fruit bats leave their roosts in Kasanka’s Mushitu Swamp Forest to search for food
11. Search the swamps for shoebills
While competition is fierce, the shoebill is widely acknowledged as one of Africa’s most charismatic avian offerings. A bill roughly the size and shape of a Dutch clog should be innately comic, but every tilt of the shoebill’s head seems to reveal a different mood – austere and intimidating, vengeful, smug, and even coy. Nothing is beyond the repertoire of their facial expression.
Travellers hoping to tick a sighting of a shoebill off their bucket lists can head out on specialised expeditions in either Uganda or Zambia
12. Swim with whale sharks off Africa’s East Coast
Beneath the azure waves of the Indian Ocean, spectacular seascapes support a cornucopia of life, including the largest fish species in the world – the whale sharks. When treated with the appropriate respect, these gentle plankton-eaters are slow and docile, allowing for a profoundly humbling underwater encounter with one of the Earth’s leviathans.
Where? Every year, feeding aggregations of whale sharks occur near Mafia Island, one of Tanzania’s Spice Islands, off the Tanzanian coast and the waters of southern Mozambique, moving through Bazaruto Archipelago National Park. The recent rise in popularity of swimming with whale sharks has seen them harassed by unethical tourism practices. It is vital to book the experience through a reputable operator that puts the well-being of the sharks first.
Be sure to seek out ethical and reputable operators for your whale shark safari – so that the well-being of the sharks comes first
13. Trek for chimps in the forest
Two great ape experiences on one list might seem overkill, but encountering chimpanzees in the wild is a world apart from gorilla trekking. Like humans, chimpanzees are social and intelligent predators with a complex array of social signals, dramas and romances. They use tools and wage wars. Chimpanzees are linked to us by an ancient common ancestor and offer a poignant reminder of our own evolutionary history.
Where?Mahale Mountains National Park in Tanzania offers some of the best chimpanzee trekking in Africa, as does Uganda’s Kibale National Park. In Uganda you can also head to Budongo Forest or Queen Elizabeth National Park for chimp trekking. Nyungwe National Park in the heart of Rwanda is another magical location to trek for chinos. Like any safari experience, there is always an element of luck involved, but the viewing in either location can be extraordinary.
An intensive grooming session nurtures chimp kinship in Kibale National Park, Uganda
14. Search for Africa’s legendary rhinos in the Greater Kruger
It is no secret that the beleaguered rhinos of the world face a perilous future, but there are still places where they can live their wild lives in (relative) safety. Despite plummeting numbers in the Kruger National Park, the Greater Kruger region still represents one of the largest remaining wild populations of both white and black rhinos. While many of the rhinos in the area are dehorned for their protection, Greater Kruger offers optimal viewing opportunities of the large mammals.
Where?The private reserves on the western fringe of the Kruger National Park are all home to both rhino species, and ensuring their safety comes at significant personal and financial costs. Visitors to these parks can rest assured that their reserve fees are going directly to protect one of Africa’s most important rhino populations.
Being in the presence of rhinos is a mesmerising experience for anyone fortunate enough to come across these giants
15. See the Big 5 in one safari
Few wildlife experiences carry the same mythic weight as encountering Africa’s Big 5. Once coined by hunters to describe the most dangerous animals to pursue on foot, the lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and rhino have since become enduring symbols of the African wilderness. Seeing all five in the wild can be achieved on a single, well-planned safari and is less about ticking boxes than understanding how these powerful animals shape the landscapes they inhabit — from apex predators regulating ecosystems to megaherbivores engineering entire habitats with their movements.
Where? Southern and East Africa offer some of the continent’s finest Big 5 safari destinations. South Africa’s Greater Kruger region is renowned for its exceptional year-round sightings, while Botswana’s Okavango Delta combines Big 5 encounters with extraordinary scenery and low-impact safari experiences. Kenya’s Maasai Mara and Tanzania’s Serengeti also offer the opportunity to see all five species on one safari, often set against the backdrop of the Great Migration.
Christina Schwenck was named Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year 2025 for a perfectly timed, rain-soaked leopard portrait captured in Kruger National Park.
Her winning image stood out for its balance of motion and stillness, technical precision, and emotional intimacy.
Christina’s photography prioritises quiet moments over spectacle, allowing images to emerge naturally through time spent in the field.
Christina believes photography can act as a gentle bridge between appreciation and conservation awareness.
The gallery below showcases a selection of Christina’s recent photographs, capturing magical, fleeting moments from across Africa’s wild landscapes.
Want to discover Africa through a photographer’s lens? Africa Geographic’s photographic safaris are crafted to maximise time, access and opportunities for capturing exceptional wildlife moments. Check out photographic safaris here.
Christina Schwenck’s winning image for Photographer of the Year 2025, Casting Off, captures a fleeting moment of wild intimacy: a rain-soaked leopard, spraying water mid-shake as the night’s storm is flung from its fur. Suspended droplets form a halo around the cat, while one eye locks onto the viewer. Taken in Kruger National Park during a downpour, the photograph struck our judges as a convergence of timing, restraint and emotional resonance.
The image was a masterclass in simplicity and timing – a photograph where light, form, motion and mood align. The lines of the tree cradle the leopard’s body, balancing the energy of the water spray. The eye-level perspective draws the viewer into intimate proximity with the leopard. Christina recalls the moment vividly. “We spotted the leopard sleeping in a tree and decided to wait,” she says. “After a long period of suspense, with my finger on the camera’s shutter release, the leopard suddenly lifted its head and shook the water from its wet fur. Within seconds, the still life turned into an explosion of water droplets, in the middle of which the alert eye of the big cat seemed to be looking directly into my camera aperture.” Taken on one of her first safaris, the photograph ignited her passion for wildlife photography. “I only realised later what a rare moment I was able to capture with this photo,” she reflects. “Even today, after numerous wonderful photo trips to various African countries, this moment is still one of my photography highlights.”
A quiet, patient photographic voice
Born in Kassel, Germany, Christina is a clinical psychologist. Outside of her academic career, photography has become a space of mindfulness and curiosity rather than pressure. Her travels across South Africa, Kenya, Botswana, Namibia, Tanzania and Uganda have shaped a photographic approach rooted in patience and observation.
Rather than chasing spectacle, Christina looks for images that reveal behaviour, structure and presence. “My photographic approach is rooted in patience and observation,” she says. “I look for moments that reveal behaviour, structure, or presence without relying on spectacle or forced interaction. Light, form, and timing guide my work, allowing images to emerge naturally rather than being pursued.” Spending time with wildlife without expectation, she believes, often reveals quieter truths.
Winning Photographer of the Year 2025 came as a complete surprise. Entered without expectation, the competition unfolded gradually – from weekly selection to Top 100, shortlist, and finally the overall win. “When I entered the Photographer of the Year, I did so without expectations,” Christina says. “It was the first photography contest I had ever submitted to, and I approached it with curiosity rather than ambition.”
The award affirmed her confidence in her photographic voice and reinforced her belief in photography’s quiet power. “Photography can serve as a bridge – celebrating beauty while drawing attention to conservation,” she says. “If an image encourages even a small shift in how we value and protect the natural world, then it has fulfilled its purpose.”
And to top it off, as the Photographer of the Year winner, Christina travelled to Odzala-Kokoua National Park with Africa Geographic and Ukuri, along with the Photographer of the Year 2025 runners-up. Check out their trip here:
In celebration of Christina’s work
Below, we share a selection of Christina Schwenck’s recent photographs – images that reflect her quiet, observant approach to wildlife and her deep respect for the natural world.
Born in Kassel, Germany, Christina Schwenck is a clinical psychologist and wildlife photographer based in Germany. In her spare time, she explores wild corners of Africa with a camera in hand. Her travels have taken her to South Africa, Kenya, Botswana, Namibia, Tanzania and Uganda. Wildlife photography is her mindfulness – a meditative exercise in patience, observation, and reverence for the natural world.
Christina believes photography can foster appreciation and responsibility in equal measure. By drawing attention to both the beauty and vulnerability of wildlife, her work aims to encourage respectful engagement with the natural world.
Updated every 5–10 years, the Mammal Red List uses IUCN criteria to track mammal extinction risk regionally.
A new Southern Africa Red List assessment reveals 11 mammals worsened in status, signalling rising extinction risk across the region.
20% of assessed mammals are threatened, and 11.5% are Near Threatened.
Endemic mammals face a high risk, leaving the region fully responsible for their survival.
Key drivers include habitat loss, climate pressures, and expanding development footprints. Aardvark and multiple bats worsened, while zebra, roan and elephant seal improved.
The 2025 Regional Mammal Red List of Threatened Species update is a warning built from evidence, not opinion: 11 mammals in South Africa, Lesotho and Eswatini have moved closer to extinction since the last assessment, reflecting worsening pressures on habitat, survival and long-term resilience.
The 2025 list is the latest scientific assessment of how close mammal species in the region are to extinction. Coordinated by the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT) and the South African National Biodiversity Institute (SANBI), and informed by around 150 species experts, it is designed to guide conservation decisions, research priorities and land-use planning.
In this revision, 11 mammal species were uplisted into higher-risk categories, meaning their conservation status has worsened. Three species were downlisted, meaning their status improved.
These status changes are significant because a Red List is not a general statement of concern. It is a formal risk classification system based on evidence – including population trends, threats, habitat loss and other criteria – which helps ensure limited conservation resources target the species most at risk.
The Red List
The IUCN Red List of Threatened Species is a global system for assessing extinction risk. It can be applied at global, regional or national scales and classifies species into categories ranging from Least Concern to Extinct. These categories are based on objective criteria and include information on threats, habitats and conservation needs.
The categories are:
Least Concern: species assessed and found to be at low risk of extinction.
Near Threatened: species close to qualifying for a threatened category.
Vulnerable: species facing a high risk of extinction in the wild.
Endangered: species facing a very high risk of extinction in the wild.
Critically Endangered: species facing an extremely high risk of extinction in the wild.
Extinct in the Wild: species that survive only in captivity or outside their natural range.
Extinct: species with no surviving individuals.
Two additional categories are used during assessment, but do not describe extinction risk:
Data Deficient: insufficient information to assess risk.
Not Evaluated: species not yet assessed.
Regional and national assessments are especially important because they show which species are declining within a specific area, even if they are not globally threatened. This supports conservation policy, environmental impact assessments, planning decisions, and tracking progress on biodiversity commitments.
The IUCN recommends reassessing species every 5–10 years. For this region, the mammal Red List was first compiled in 1986, updated in 2004, revised again in 2016 to include Eswatini and Lesotho, and now updated in 2025.
The headline numbers
A total of 336 mammal taxa were assessed. The results show:
20% of mammals in the region are threatened with extinction
11.5–12% are Near Threatened
67 species are endemic to the assessment region (found nowhere else)
Endemic species carry particular weight in this kind of assessment. If a species only exists in this region, regional declines are close to a global conservation crisis. In 2025, 42% of endemic mammals in the region are threatened with extinction.
Uplisting and downlisting
A species is uplisted when it moves into a higher extinction-risk category. The Red List update describes this as a declining conservation status, linked to increasing threats, reduced habitat, or new evidence that changes how risk is understood.
A species is downlisted when it is moved to a lower-risk category. This can happen when populations recover, or new data shows the risk is lower than previously believed.
The 2025 assessment identifies three risk patterns threatening mammals:
Habitat loss and degradation driven by agricultural expansion, urban growth, and development.
Climate change and extreme weather conditions, which increasingly shape habitat quality and survival.
Overexploitation and poaching, which continue to directly impact some species.
A protection level analysis adds another layer: only around 76% of mammal species are well or moderately protected, while around 24–25% are poorly protected or not protected.
Hartmann’s mountain zebra was downlisted from Vulnerable to Near Threatened, due to an increase in population numbers
Growing pressure on “common” species
Several uplisted species highlight how extinction risk is spreading beyond traditionally “rare” animals into species that were previously assessed as Least Concern or Near Threatened.
The list of uplisted mammals includes the African straw-coloured fruit bat (Eidolon helvum), Damara horseshoe bat (Rhinolophus damarensis), Dent’s horseshoe bat (Rhinolophus denti), large-eared free-tailed bat (Otomops martiensseni), Lesueur’s hairy bat (Cistugo lesueuri), thick-tailed bushbaby (Otolemur crassicaudatus), African shaggy rat (Dasymys incomtus), laminate vlei rat (Otomys laminatus), Namaqua dune mole-rat (Bathyergus janetta), Woosnam’s desert rat (Zelotomys woosnami), and the aardvark (Orycteropus afer).
This is significant because the aardvark depends on termites and ants, and the assessment links its decline to climate-driven pressure on prey and habitat quality.
Aardvarks are threatened by a drop in habitat quality due to climate change & climate-change related droughts
Thick-tailed bushbaby: Least Concern to Near Threatened
The thick-tailed bushbaby was uplisted from Least Concern to Near Threatened, based on ongoing habitat loss and degradation. Two rapidly increasing threats have been added to the risks faced by the bushbabies, namely the building of linear infrastructure (such as roads, pipelines and power lines that fragment habitat) and killings by domestic dogs.
This shift signals growing risks from expanding development footprints and human-associated pressures in previously viable habitats.
Two threats have been added to the risks faced by thick-tailed bushbabies, including the building of infrastructure and killings by dogs
Namaqua dune mole-rat: Least Concern to Endangered
One of the sharpest changes is the Namaqua dune mole-rat, which moved from Least Concern to Endangered. This is attributed to “ongoing loss and degradation of its habitat,” with the same rapidly increasing threats recorded for the bushbaby: linear infrastructure and killings by domestic dogs. A jump to Endangered indicates a much higher extinction risk within the assessment region.
Bats: small populations, new pressures
Multiple bat species were uplisted, often linked to very small population estimates and emerging threats such as renewable energy infrastructure: The African straw-coloured fruit bat moved from Least Concern to Near Threatened, with threats including wind turbines and climate change.
The African straw-coloured fruit bat moved from Least Concern to Near Threatened. Via iNaturalist (CC BY-NC 4.0 – rencontres_sauvages)
Lesueur’s hairy bat moved from Least Concern to Vulnerable, with declining mature individuals and renewable energy development projected to affect the area of occupancy cited as threats.
Bats play important ecological roles, and the Red List now flags that some species are being affected by both shrinking habitats and new forms of landscape-scale infrastructure.
Downlistings show recovery is possible
The 2025 revision also records improved status for three species:
Hartmann’s mountain zebra (Equus zebra hartmannae): Vulnerable to Near Threatened, due to a genuine increase in population numbers exceeding the threshold for Vulnerable.
Roan antelope (Hippotragus equinus): Endangered to Vulnerable, with the minimum confirmed wild mature population increasing from less than 250 to less than 1,000 individuals.
Southern elephant seal (Mirounga leonina): Near Threatened to Least Concern, with a population increase of approximately 29% over four generations (1986–2023).
Downlistings are not reassurance that threats have disappeared, but they do show that conservation gains can be measured when monitoring is strong enough to confirm trends.
The southern elephant seal was downlisted from Near Threatened to Least Concern due to a population increase
Seeing wildlife in the field builds understanding, value and long-term support for conservation. By travelling with Africa Geographic, you can encounter some of the mammals highlighted in this Red List assessment while directly supporting protected areas, conservation partners and the landscapes these species depend on. Check out our responsible safari ideas here, or let our travel experts plan the perfect sustainable African safari for you by clicking here.
Research priorities
The assessment also highlights gaps that limit conservation action. The most critical issue is insufficient population sampling and monitoring inside protected areas, particularly for small mammals. In 2025, 7% of assessed species were Data Deficient, meaning there was not enough information to assign a category, with cetaceans comprising the majority of these species.
The assessment also included, for the first time, genetic indicators and climate change vulnerability, but notes that both are constrained by limited data. These additions are intended to strengthen future conservation decisions, especially as climate pressure intensifies across the region.
Final thoughts
The 2025 Regional Mammal Red List makes clear that extinction risk in southern Africa is no longer confined to rare or little-known species. Habitat loss, climate pressures and expanding infrastructure are eroding resilience across a wide range of mammals, including species once considered secure. At the same time, documented recoveries show that sustained protection, reduced threats and credible monitoring can shift trajectories. The Red List is therefore not an endpoint but a decision-making tool – one that sets priorities, exposes gaps in protection and research, and clarifies where conservation action must be focused if further declines are to be prevented.
References
Endangered Wildlife Trust. Mammal Red List. Endangered Wildlife Trust.
Endangered Wildlife Trust & South African National Biodiversity Institute. Fact Sheet: The 2025 Regional Mammal Red List of South Africa, Eswatini and Lesotho. Endangered Wildlife Trust, January 2026.
Further reading
The elusive aardvark is a keystone species, shaping the landscape around it and providing dwellings for other mammals, reptiles and birds. Read more about aardvarks here
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter and more inspiration for your African safari.
From our CEO – Simon Espley
Funny story :-). So I was on safari with guests in Botswana years back when we were treated to one of the best guiding stunts ever.
We were trundling along a sandy track when our guide leapt out of the open-topped Landy and disappeared behind a dense copse of sage shrubs. The Landy trundled slowly onwards sans driver, following the deep wheel ruts, as they do when in low range, with our guests staring wide-eyed at each other. About 50 metres down the track, he reappeared next to the vehicle, leaned in and turned off the ignition. Cupped gently in his hands was a tiny fat mouse (its actual name). He gave a fascinating explanation of this minuscule creature’s ability to store fat under the skin to see it through the cold winter nights, which gives it a chubby appearance; hence the name. He then strolled back behind the shrubs to release the precious rodent, and on we went to search for other epic wildlife encounters. Note to online trolls: no mice were harmed during said encounter 😉
In the Ethiopian Highlands, scale can be misleading. In this vast massif, one of the tiniest mammals on Earth has quietly revealed itself.
Weighing less than a sugar cube, a newly confirmed shrew species emerged from years of patient fieldwork in one of Africa’s most biologically rich regions. The breakthrough came when researchers added a simple pitfall bucket to their trapping method, to reach animals too small for conventional traps. At the bottom of one such bucket on Mount Damota sat a 3-gram shrew.
The find echoed an unresolved sighting years earlier in the Simien Mountains. Only with this second specimen could the species be formally recognised. The work spanned rugged field sites and the loss of the researcher who made the first record of the species, Bill Stanley, before he could see the outcome. Named in his honour, Crocidura stanleyi is now expanding our knowledge of the physiological limits of mammals. Even in well-studied landscapes, some stories remain elusive, yet worth the wait.
This week, we’ve rounded up some of our favourite family safari destinations. And we examine research that shows a worrying increase in targeted lion poaching for parts.
Yours in wild adventure,
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
FAMILY SAFARIS
Discover Africa’s top family safari destinations for trips with kids or multi-generational groups
LION POACHING
Study warns of rise in lion poaching for body parts such as claws, teeth & skins
This Kenyan family bush-and-beach holiday blends the wildlife-rich Laikipia highlands with the warmth and calm of the Indian Ocean coast at Lamu, where clear waters, dhow sails and long, quiet beaches slow the rhythm after days in the bush. Think family-friendly lodges, activities for all ages, short scenic flights and private transfers, ensuring effortless travel and unforgettable shared memories. This is the ultimate family escape.
This family-friendly safari explores the Okavango Delta, Moremi and Savute, staying at three lodges designed with children in mind and packed with engaging activities and unforgettable wildlife encounters. Tailor flexible experiences for the whole family in this safari that will unlock your family’s imagination with a lifetime of inspiration.
AG safari guest Karen and her family from New Zealand went on a wonderful Botswana safari:
“AG arranged the perfect trip to Botswana for my family. They really listened to our brief and arranged an awesome itinerary within our budget. We had a good variety of accommodation, activities and locations. All transport was on time – we did not have a single hiccup or moment of stress. Organising the trip was easy, with good communication and support. I have travelled a lot, and this would be one of my greatest travel experiences. Thanks Africa Geographic for organising it!”
See what our Photographer of the Year 2025 winners got up to on their prize safari to Congo-Brazzaville’s Odzala-Kokoua National Park. Winner Christina Schwenck and runners-up Ernest Porter and Mary Schrader share rainforest magic, from a silverback’s gorilla family to serene forest elephants. Photographer of the Year 2026 opens in February. Could you be our next winner? (01:57) Click here to watch
A family safari in Africa is an excellent choice for a holiday – whether you’re travelling with children or bringing together several generations of your family.
Family safaris work best when destinations match the ages, health needs, and energy levels of your group.
Malaria-free reserves offer easy logistics and reliable wildlife for young children.
Private reserves and conservancies provide flexibility, exclusivity, and family-focused accommodation.
River and activity-led destinations suit teenagers who need variety beyond game drives.
Iconic parks like the Serengeti and Greater Kruger reward families seeking classic, high-impact wildlife experiences.
Safaris are uniquely suited to multi-generational family holidays, bringing everyone together through shared wildlife encounters and unhurried time in nature that becomes a lasting set of collective memories. Family safaris succeed when logistics are simple, wildlife viewing is rewarding, and experiences can be shaped around different ages and energy levels. Africa offers several destinations that meet these requirements, from malaria-free reserves ideal for young children to private conservancies and river systems better suited to teenagers and multi-generational groups. This guide focuses on destinations that consistently work well for families, based on practical considerations and long-standing Africa Geographic travel experience.
Family sundowners in Laikipia
Choosing the right family safari destination
The best family safari destination depends on children’s ages, family size, and travel goals. Malaria-free reserves and private villas suit young children and multi-generational groups. Private conservancies and river systems work better for older children and teenagers. With careful planning, Africa offers family safari experiences that are safe, engaging, and genuinely shared across generations.
Waterberg Biosphere Reserve, South Africa
Best for young children and multi-generational groups
The Waterberg Biosphere lies within easy reach of Johannesburg and is entirely malaria-free. Its rugged landscapes support good wildlife diversity, including Big Five species in private reserves such as Marataba.
Rhino watching underneath the Kransberg mountains of the Waterberg
Marataba is a private concession inside the greater Marakele National Park. The broader Waterberg region is recognised for conservation success, including important rhino populations. Activities centre on guided game drives and time spent exploring a rugged, scenic reserve well suited to shorter stays and family travel.
For families, the appeal lies in short transfer times, flexible game drives, and well-designed family accommodation. Private villas and family units allow different generations to travel together while maintaining space and privacy. Activities often include child-focused nature walks, junior ranger programmes, and flexible schedules that suit younger attention spans. This is a strong choice for first-time safari families and celebratory gatherings.
Family bush dinner under the stars
Madikwe Game Reserve, South Africa
Best for young children and multi-generational safaris
Madikwe Game Reserve is one of South Africa’s most reliable family safari destinations. Located close to the Botswana border, this malaria-free reserve is widely valued for excellent Big Five sightings as well as wild dogs, cheetahs and brown hyenas, making it particularly rewarding for first-time safari travellers. Activities focus on game drives with strong guiding and reliable viewing conditions.
Many lodges here are designed with families in mind, offering family suites, private vehicles, and guides experienced in hosting children. Shorter game drives and flexible mealtimes make it easier to accommodate mixed-age groups. Madikwe is particularly well-suited to grandparents travelling with grandchildren, where safety, comfort, and predictable wildlife viewing are priorities. This is a strong option for multi-generational safaris, with accommodation and guiding that can adapt to different ages and interests in one group.
Madikwe focuses on game drives with strong guiding and reliable viewing conditions
Tswalu Kalahari Reserve, South Africa
Best for families with older children and curious learners
The Kalahari is a vast semi-arid region of dunes, open savannah and desert-adapted ecosystems that stretches across parts of southern Africa. It offers a different safari context to high-density Big Five reserves, with an emphasis on space, survival strategies, and wildlife that has evolved to thrive in dry conditions.
Tswalu Kalahari, in South Africa’s Northern Cape, is a private reserve that provides access to this landscape in a refined, low-impact way. Wildlife viewing here is shaped by the open terrain and clear visibility, with activities focused on game drives and guided exploration that reward curiosity, observation, and time spent understanding the environment.
Tswalu works best for families with older children who are interested in ecology and animal behaviour. Predator sightings can be excellent, and the focus often shifts to understanding adaptation and survival in extreme environments. The Kalahari suits families looking for space, quiet, and learning rather than constant game-drive intensity.
Aardvark spotting in Tswalu Kalahari Reserve
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe and Zambia
Best for multi-generational celebrations and families with teenagers
Victoria Falls is a UNESCO-listed destination where the Zambezi River plunges into a dramatic gorge, creating one of Africa’s most famous natural landmarks. Victoria Falls adds a non-safari dimension to a family trip. The falls themselves are a major draw, and a range of activities appeal across age groups. It is known for guided falls tours, scenic flights such as the “Flight of Angels,” and river-based experiences including sunset cruises on the Zambezi. It also pairs well with nearby wildlife viewing, including waterhole sightings from certain safari-style hotels and lodges.
For multi-generational families, it works well as a shared experience anchored by visits to the falls, river cruises, and cultural tours. Families with teenagers benefit from the optional adventure activities available nearby, while younger children can still enjoy the spectacle and accessible excursions. Victoria Falls is best paired with a safari extension rather than treated as a standalone wildlife destination.
Victoria Falls as seen from Zambia
Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe
Best for first-time safari families and multi-generational groups
Hwange is the ideal destination for first-time safari-goers
Hwange is Zimbabwe’s largest national park, set on the fringes of the Kalahari in the country’s northwest. It is famous for massive elephant and buffalo herds, large male lions, and one of Africa’s largest wild dog populations, with frequent sightings around pumped waterholes in the dry season. Activities are typically focused on game drives. The terrain is relatively flat, and game viewing often centres around waterholes, creating consistent sightings without long drives.
Camps here have a strong guiding culture and are accustomed to hosting families. The pace is relaxed, making it suitable for younger children, while wildlife density keeps all ages engaged. Hwange is a good option for those seeking a classic family safari experience without logistical complexity. With a balance of reliable viewing and flexible daily structure, it is well-suited to milestone trips where several generations want to travel as one.
Game viewing in Hwange often centres around waterholes
Greater Kruger, South Africa
Best for all ages, including multi-generational groups
Guided walk in Thornybush, Greater Kruger
The private reserves adjoining Kruger National Park, such as Sabi Sands, MalaMala, Timbavati, Klaserie and Thornybush, forming part of the Greater Kruger, offer some of the most reliable wildlife viewing in Africa. Responsible off-road driving in the private reserves and low vehicle density create close encounters with Big Five species. Activities centre on game drives in high-quality habitats with consistently strong predator sightings.
For families, private villas and exclusive-use lodges are key. These allow full control over daily schedules, private guides, and activities tailored to the group’s needs. This is one of the most versatile destinations for families spanning multiple generations, offering shared wildlife experiences while still allowing space and comfort for older travellers.
Kruger’s private reserves, such as MalaMala, offer private guides, and activities tailored to group needs
Cape Town, South Africa
Best for multi-generational celebrations and families with young children
Cape Town is a rare family destination that combines a major city break with easy access to nature – framed by Table Mountain, washed by two oceans, and surrounded by pristine wilderness. It works well for families because it offers flexible days that can mix beaches, mountains, culture, food, and wildlife without long transfers.
Idyllic Camps Bay beach in Cape Town
For a family safari itinerary, Cape Town is most effective as the start or finish of a broader trip, paired with nearby Big Five reserves and the Cape Winelands. Highlights for mixed ages include the Table Mountain cable car, the Cape Peninsula and Cape Point, penguins at Boulders Beach, the V&A Waterfront and Two Oceans Aquarium, and time in Franschhoek and Stellenbosch for vineyards and restaurants. It is also a practical choice for families because it can be combined with malaria-free wildlife reserves and tailored with private guides, private vehicles, and accommodation ranging from boutique hotels to private villas and five-star safari lodges.
Views over Cape Town’s picturesque coast
Laikipia Plateau, Kenya
Best for multi-generational safaris and families with older children
Laikipia is a diverse conservation region made up of wildlife conservancies, ranchlands and community areas bridging Kenya’s savannah and the country’s arid north. It is known for combining wildlife viewing with a wide range of activities. This variety makes it one of Kenya’s most flexible and family-friendly safari regions. Wildlife is diverse, and conservation models here emphasise community involvement and low-impact tourism.
Guided bushwalk in Loisaba, Laikipia
Families benefit from flexibility. Horse riding, camel rides, tracking on foot, and cultural interaction keep older children and teenagers engaged. Accommodation often includes private houses ideal for extended families. Laikipia suits families who want participation and learning alongside wildlife viewing.
Horseback riding in Loisaba, Laikipia
Maasai Mara conservancies, Kenya
Best for families with children of mixed ages
There are various private conservancies that form part of the greater Maasai Mara ecosystem, such as Naboisho and Mara North Conservancies, that offer high-quality wildlife viewing with more controlled vehicle numbers than the main reserve.
On foot in Mara North Conservancy
Think similar wildlife experiences to what awaits in the Maasai Mara National Reserve, with fewer vehicles and greater flexibility. The area around Naboisho and Mara North are best known for strong predator sightings and the chance to experience the Mara in a quieter, more exclusive setting. Activities often include game drives and, depending on the conservancy rules, added experiences. Night drives and walking safaris are permitted, and guiding standards are high.
For families, this means shorter, more engaging activities and guides skilled at working with children. The conservancies are well-suited to families wanting the Mara ecosystem without the crowds, and they work well for both school-age children and teenagers.
Mara’s conservancies offer shorter, engaging activities, and guides skilled at working with children
Lower Zambezi National Park, Zambia
Best for families with teenagers
Lower Zambezi lies on the northern bank of the Zambezi River, opposite Mana Pools in Zimbabwe, forming part of a vast cross-border ecosystem. The park ranges from escarpment terrain down to fertile alluvial plains and riverine woodland, where much of the wildlife is concentrated.
Lower Zambezi combines land and river-based safari experiences. Canoeing, boating, and walking safaris create a varied programme that appeals to active older teenagers and young adults.
This destination requires confidence with water-based activities and typically suits families with teenagers rather than very young children. It works particularly well for families seeking shared adventure and hands-on exploration in a less structured safari environment.
Lower Zambezi offers epic game drives
Samara Karoo Reserve, South Africa
Best for young children and educational family trips
Samara is a private reserve in South Africa’s semi-arid Karoo, offering a contrasting safari environment to the savannah reserves of the north and east. It is known for wide, open landscapes and conservation-led wildlife experiences. Wildlife viewing in this malaria-free family safari destination includes large mammals and reintroduced predators, set within dramatic landscapes.
Families benefit from walking safaris, tracking, and a clear conservation narrative that is accessible to children. Samara suits families interested in understanding rewilding and long-term ecological restoration rather than high-density game viewing.
Samara also suits multi-generational travel particularly well, with enough variety and flexibility to keep different ages engaged without compromising comfort.
Samara specialises in family-friendly activities
Kwandwe Private Game Reserve, South Africa
Best for young children and multi-generational families
Kwandwe is a private reserve in South Africa’s Eastern Cape, straddling the Great Fish River. It is known for high biodiversity and dramatic topography, and for its long-term rehabilitation from farmland to restored wildlands. Activities focus on game drives and conservation-oriented safari experiences in a malaria-free region.
An interpretive walk with the kids in Kwandwe
Kwandwe is well known for its family-friendly approach. Flexible activities, private vehicles, and child-focused programmes make it easy to tailor safaris around young guests.
The reserve combines good wildlife viewing with strong conservation and community projects, offering educational value alongside comfort. For families travelling with grandparents, parents, and children together, it offers an easy pace and shared experiences that work across generations.
Game viewing on foot in Kwandwe
Savute – Chobe National Park, Botswana
Best for families with older children
Savute forms part of the broader Chobe region in northeastern Botswana, an area known for some of Africa’s strongest wildlife encounters. Chobe incorporates multiple safari areas including Savute and the Chobe Riverfront, supporting a wide range of habitats and wildlife density.
Savute is a more remote and intense safari destination, known for predator interactions and dramatic landscapes. It is best suited to families with older children who can handle longer drives and more rugged conditions. For these families, Savute offers a powerful wildlife experience and a sense of immersion that rewards patience and attention. The combination of strong wildlife viewing and well-supported lodge infrastructure makes this a reliable choice for larger family celebrations.
Savute is known for dramatic predator interactions
Amboseli National Park, Kenya
Best for families with school-age children
Amboseli is one of Kenya’s best-known national parks, celebrated for its large elephant herds and open, accessible wildlife viewing. The park’s landscapes range across open plains and seasonal wetlands, supporting a high concentration of large mammals. Activities are primarily game drives, with wildlife often easy to see thanks to open terrain, which is ideal for younger safari-goers.
Amboseli is famous for its epic views of Mount Kilimanjaro vand its well-protected tusker elephants. Cultural interactions with local Maasai communities add an educational dimension. Amboseli works well as part of a broader Kenyan itinerary and suits families seeking clear wildlife viewing with manageable logistics.
Mount Kilimanjaro towers over the elephant legends of Amboseli
Samburu National Reserve, Kenya
Best for families with curious older children
Samburu lies in Kenya’s arid north and offers a safari defined by dry landscapes, riverine habitats, and species adapted to harsher conditions. It is famous for wildlife diversity and for sightings that differ from Kenya’s more southerly parks. Activities focus on game drives, often with a strong emphasis on learning about adaptation and ecology.
Samburu’s arid landscapes support species not found in southern Kenya, including the Samburu Special Five (gerenuk, reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, Somali ostrich, and beisa oryx).
For families, this offers a learning-driven safari focused on adaptation and diversity. Lodges here often cater well to families and groups, and the reserve suits children interested in understanding how wildlife survives in harsher environments.
Soaking up the magical arid landscape of Samburu
Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
Best for multi-generational celebrations and families with older children
The Serengeti is one of Africa’s most iconic wildlife regions, dominated by wide grassland plains and huge seasonal movements of grazing animals. It is best known for the Great Wildebeest Migration and high predator density, particularly big cats drawn to large herds. Activities are typically focused on game drives, with camps positioned to access key wildlife areas through the year. It offers the kind of scale and abundance that keeps multi-generational groups engaged, especially when a family trip is built around a major shared safari experience.
For families, the Serengeti works particularly well when planned with comfortable, family-friendly camps and a paced itinerary that allows for downtime between game drives. It also suits older children who will appreciate the intensity of big cat sightings and the movement of large herds, especially during peak migration periods.
Big cat sightings are a prominent highlight of Serengeti safaris
Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania
Best for multi-generational safaris and families with school-age children
Ngorongoro Crater is a vast volcanic caldera with a concentrated wildlife system on its crater floor, based on Tanzania’s northern safari circuit. It is famous for high-density game viewing within a compact area, including regular Big Five sightings. Game drives are the main activity, with the crater offering a structured safari experience ideal for travellers wanting strong viewing in a short time.
Learning to read the bush news with Maasai tribesmen
With Big Five sightings and some of Africa’s highest lion densities, it delivers rewarding wildlife viewing without the need for long, tiring days in the vehicle.
For families, this concentrated format is practical. It suits mixed-age groups who want reliable game viewing within a structured, manageable schedule, making it a strong choice for multi-generational travel. Ngorongoro also pairs naturally with the Serengeti, helping families combine sweeping landscapes with focused wildlife experiences in one itinerary.
The lush crater floor of Ngorongoro CraterNgorongoro is a strong choice when travelling with a diverse family group of varying ages
The Spice Islands – Zanzibar, Pemba and Mafia (Tanzania)
Best for multi-generational celebrations and families with young children
The Spice Islands – Zanzibar (Unguja), Pemba, Mafia and a host of smaller associated islands serve as beach retreats and watersports havens for all budgets and privacy expectations. Only a short distance from the Tanzanian coast, Zanzibar sits at the crossroads of historic trade routes between Africa, the Middle East, and Asia, giving it a distinct cultural identity alongside its island appeal.
Zanzibar is best known for its gorgeous beaches, spice tours, local cuisine, and Stone Town – a UNESCO World Heritage Site with cobbled streets, back-street markets, and Swahili trading-port architecture built from coralline ragstone and mangrove timber. Beyond the capital, families can slow the pace on palm-fringed beaches, explore rocky shores and private jetties, and visit the mangrove forests of Jozani Forest Reserve. Across the broader island group, Zanzibar, Pemba and Mafia are also recognised for some of East Africa’s finest beaches and several of its best dive sites, making them an ideal post-safari extension for families who want rest, swimming, and shared time together.
White sandy beaches of Zanzibar
Final thoughts on your family safari
A family safari is at its best when the destination matches the people travelling – the ages of the children, the comfort needs of older relatives, and the pace that allows everyone to enjoy the experience. Malaria-free reserves and private lodges in South Africa make early family safaris easy and rewarding, while Kenya, Botswana, Zambia and Tanzania offer deeper wilderness, richer variety, and more adventurous activities for older children and multi-generational celebrations. With thoughtful planning and the right camp, a safari becomes more than a holiday – it becomes shared time in nature, shaped by unforgettable sightings and memories that stay with a family long after the journey ends.
Targeted poaching for lion parts is increasing across Africa, feeding illegal trade in teeth, claws, skins and bones.
Organised criminal networks are using poisoning and baiting tactics to kill multiple lions efficiently.
Demand for lion parts is diverse and dynamic, spanning African cultural-spiritual use and Asian markets.
Lion part trafficking is increasingly transnational and overlaps with ivory, rhino horn and pangolin scale crime.
The African Lion Database supports hotspot detection and evidence-led interventions by standardising mortality records.
African lions have declined sharply over the last century, losing most of their historical range. Many conservation efforts have focused on habitat loss, declining prey populations, conflicts with people, and the impacts of poorly regulated killing. But a new review paper warns that another threat is now growing fast enough to undermine those gains: the deliberate, targeted poaching of lions for their body parts.
The study, published in Conservation Letters, consolidates recent information from across the continent and argues that this form of illegal killing “represents a potentially existential threat to the species”. The study identifies a growing threat to African lions – they are increasingly being deliberately killed to feed the illegal trade in body parts. Researchers, including some from the Endangered Wildlife Trust and University of Pretoria, report that organised networks are targeting lions for claws, teeth and skins, supplying cultural and medicinal markets in Africa and Asia.
Lion’s claws, teeth and bones are increasingly targeted by poachers supplying the illegal wildlife trade
Targeted lion poaching for parts
The authors define targeted poaching as lions being intentionally killed to supply the illegal wildlife trade in products such as claws, teeth, skins and bones. This differs from “opportunistic” removal, where parts may be taken from lions that died naturally or were killed for other reasons, such as snaring aimed at bushmeat.
This distinction matters because it signals a shift from incidental losses to deliberate, market-driven killing. The study describes the threat as “poorly understood, underreported, growing, and prone to the influence of organised transnational crime”.
Why lions are easy poaching targets
The paper highlights one method that makes targeted poaching especially dangerous: poisoning.
Lions are vulnerable because of their social behaviour. They feed communally and respond vigorously to bait, meaning a single poisoned carcass can kill multiple animals in one event.
The authors note incidents where giraffes were killed and used as bait to attract lions, describing this as evidence of “forethought and coordination characteristic of experienced and organised poaching networks”. Poisoning also causes “significant collateral damage”, including mass deaths of scavengers such as vultures.
This is not only a lion conservation issue. It affects broader ecosystems by removing scavengers that play essential roles in disease control and nutrient cycling.
The illegal trade in lion parts is linked to organised criminal networks and cross-border trafficking
Demand driving trade
The review emphasises that demand for lion parts is “diverse, multifaceted, and highly dynamic”, with cultural, spiritual and commercial uses across both African and Asian markets.
In Africa, a pan-African review found culturally motivated use of lion body parts in at least 37 countries. The demand is described as deeply embedded in traditional belief systems and cross-border trade.
In West Africa, the study points to market surveys in Senegal that show the scale of the threat. Despite Senegal’s remaining wild lion population being just 35–45 animals, preliminary estimates suggest 32–169 lions would be needed annually to meet domestic demand.
In Southeast Asia, demand for lion parts is linked to perceived cultural-medicinal value, and the study notes that lion bones have been traded as substitutes for tiger parts when the tiger trade was restricted.
The authors also flag a critical uncertainty: “The relative importance of African versus Asian demand and how they influence one another remains a knowledge gap.”
A poached lion targeted for parts. Systematic tracking of lion deaths helps identify emerging hotspots and guide enforcement action.
Organised crime a key risk factor in lion poaching
One of the most serious warnings in the paper is that lion parts are increasingly moving through organised, transnational supply chains.
Examples include the seizure of 17 lion skulls in Lusaka in 2021, reportedly en route from South Africa, and a 2023 seizure in Maputo of more than 300kg of lion body parts.
The study notes that trafficking may be linked to networks also involved in ivory, rhino horn and pangolin scales, creating a multi-layered criminal structure that makes detection and disruption more difficult.
This matters because organised crime changes the scale and persistence of poaching. Where opportunistic killing may be sporadic, criminal supply chains can sustain repeated pressure on lion populations.
A growing lion poaching threat
A key finding is geographic expansion.
The paper documents increasing incidents of lions being killed and their parts removed across Africa between January 2019 and September 2025, noting that this is not exhaustive but intended to show “the severity and geographic scope of the threat”.
Mozambique has been a long-standing hotspot. The authors report that between 2010 and 2023, 426 lions were recorded in human-related mortality events there, with 25% linked to deliberate poaching for body parts. They also report that known cases rose from an average of one per year (2010–2017) to seven per year (2018–2023).
More concerning is the spillover into major protected areas. In South Africa’s Kruger National Park, the study cites evidence of increased poaching in recent years, with the lion population in the northern region reported to have declined by as much as 63% over 18 years. Targeted poaching and snaring bycatch are suggested as contributing factors.
The paper also discusses cases of well-managed parks, such as Gonarezhou in Zimbabwe, arguing that even strong protected-area management may be insufficient without targeted monitoring and rapid-response systems.
Recent (January 2019 to September 2025) lion mortalities across Africa involving the removal of body parts (for incident details and references, see Table S1). This is not an exhaustive list of incidents that have occurred but is a summary of the incidents contributed to this study to illustrate the severity and geographic scope of the threat to the species. Lion range is depicted in green (Nicholson, Bauer, et al. 2025)
The African Lion Database
The review argues that effective responses require more substantial evidence.
A central recommendation is the systematic documentation of mortality events in a “centralised, standardised database” to detect trends and emerging hotspots. The authors identify the IUCN Cat Specialist Group’s African Lion Database as offering “substantial utility for this purpose”.
By consolidating information on mortality – including whether body parts were removed – the database supports faster, more targeted interventions. In practical terms, this kind of information helps conservationists and authorities identify where targeted poaching is emerging, how methods are changing, and what products are being sought.
Without coordinated responses, targeted poaching risks driving steep lion declines and local extirpation
A way forward
The paper calls for a coordinated response agenda across six areas: improving in situ protection, engaging communities, understanding trade dynamics, disrupting supply chains, strengthening legal frameworks, and reducing demand.
Notably, the authors argue that uncertainty should not delay action. They recommend a proactive approach “to prevent entrenchment of poaching and illicit markets and avert severe impacts on lion populations”.
Their conclusion is direct: if unchecked, targeted poaching for parts may lead to “rapid extirpation in some areas and substantial reductions in others”.
Reference
Lindsey, P., Nicholson, S. K., Coals, P. G. R., Taylor, W. A., Becker, M. S., Rademeyer, K., Whittington-Jones, G., Briers-Louw, W. D., Almeida, J., Chase, M., Dore, A., Henschel, P., Kwiyega, J. L., Loveridge, A., Mandisodza-Chikerema, R. L., Mandinyenya, B., Nampindo, S., Roodbol, M., Uiseb, K., Naude, V. N., & Williams, V. L. (2026). Increasing targeted poaching of lions for trade has the potential to pose an existential threat to the species in Africa. Conservation Letters, 19, e70014.
Further reading
Study of 160+ sources finds no proof lion farming aids conservation – and warns it may fuel demand for lion body parts. Read about the study’s findings here
A new survey sheds light on the state of the lion population in the north of Kruger, revealing trends that could shape future conservation efforts. Read more about Kruger’s lion population here
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
Pula! Heavy rains and widespread flooding have hit my beloved Lowveld with a vengeance, and we have had no break for the last week, with more to come.
Rural towns are inundated, Kruger National Park rivers are flooding, causeways and low bridges are underwater, and emergency services are stretched to help stranded locals and tourists. Just before the rains arrived, I made a diary note about how the queleas had started to flock early this year, with chattering squadrons whooshing thousands-strong overhead. Perhaps they detected the coming deluge.
Meanwhile, Cape Town and the Western Cape are in the grip of drought, acute water shortages and seasonal wind-blown fires sweeping through the parched landscapes.
What a diverse country South Africa is, and how extraordinary our people are as they stoically deal with whatever comes their way.
Sometimes survival is not loud. It does not announce itself or demand attention. Sometimes it simply carries on.
More than half a century after it slipped quietly from scientific record, the blue-tailed sandveld lizard has been rediscovered by researchers from the Endangered Wildlife Trust during biodiversity surveys in southern Mozambique. Once labelled a “lost” species and last recorded in the 1970s, it turns out this small reptile had been doing what many successful species do best: keeping its head down, staying out of trouble, and getting on with the work of surviving.
Resilience often looks like patience, adaptability, and showing up day after day, even if the landscape is tough. A fitting note for the start of a new year: keep going, keep steady, and trust that quiet diligence has its moment too.
This week, we also examine how tourist camp density is reshaping lion density in the Maasai Mara, and take a seasonal journey through the Greater Kruger with Gerald Hinde’s Kruger safari photographic book.
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
MARA LIONS
Research shows density of tourist camps impacts lion populations in the Maasai Mara, and how tourism planning affects conservation
KRUGER SAFARI
A look at Greater Kruger through Gerald Hinde’s photography from Kruger Safari, revealing wildlife & conservation insights
Be prepared for the drama and the wonder of the vast open plains. Step into the wild heart of Tanzania as the Great Migration sweeps across the vast Serengeti. Encounter endless herds, prowling predators, golden savannahs and dramatic big skies on this unforgettable safari adventure.
Our safari will romance you with the Mother City’s hip restaurants, sandy white beaches, outdoor adventures, and iconic landmarks, before sweeping you into wall-to-wall wildlife action in a private Greater Kruger game reserve just over two hours away by air. Packed with the very best of South Africa, this classic bucket-list safari blends vibey Cape Town with exceptional Big 5 game viewing.
AG safari guest Beryl from the USA went on an art safari with professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls in Greater Kruger:
“Art Safari with Alison Nicholls!Wildlife artist Alison Nicholls and Africa Geographic created and curated the trip of a lifetime: an art safari with four other artists. We were up close (very close…) with bush experiences in Timbavati, South Africa, and then moved on to Hwange in Zimbabwe. We then visited Chobe, Botswana, to float about on the river, facing the gigantic crocodiles, elephants, rhinos, and thousands of birds. There was so much to experience, so much to learn. The guides and drivers were all so full of experience, ideas and information, and they each had the ability to find the most amazing up-close adventures. Being with Alison Nicholls to focus our artistic abilities through observing and sketching, as well as some painting, was great. All I can say is the only way to travel is with artists… and Alison is the best!”
When drought pushed Samburu communities in northern Kenya to the brink, they turned to something older than any aid programme: ancestral water wisdom. The Land Smiles Back follows Westgate Community Conservancy as they revive ancient hydrotechnology: digging thousands of “Earth Smiles” to slow rainwater, heal degraded rangelands, and bring life back to the land for people, livestock, and wildlife. Winner of the 2025 Water Film Prize, this is a hopeful story of resilience, regeneration, and the power of working with nature. (04:24) Click here to watch
Greater Kruger is not defined by a single boundary or experience. It is a vast, unfenced landscape where Kruger National Park merges with a network of private reserves and concessions to the west, allowing wildlife to move freely across an intact ecological system. Its significance lies not only in the density of wildlife it supports, but in the continuity of processes that still play out largely as they have for centuries.
For wildlife photographer Gerald Hinde, understanding this landscape required time. Over three years, he committed to living and working within the private reserves of the Greater Kruger, observing the region across multiple seasons and annual cycles. That experience forms the foundation of the book Kruger Safari, created with author Will Taylor, but the heart of the work is the place itself.
Elephants enjoy a mudbath in a dry riverbed
The Greater Kruger ecosystem
The Greater Kruger functions as a single ecological unit. Seasonal rainfall patterns drive movement, breeding, and survival, while open boundaries allow animals to respond naturally to changing conditions. This freedom of movement is essential to maintaining healthy predator-prey relationships, genetic diversity, and population balance.
Hinde’s time in the field was shaped by these rhythms.
“I realised that a typical research trip wouldn’t suffice,” says Hinde. To honestly write about the Kruger – its rhythms, its seasonal dramas, the sheer complexity of its ecosystems – I had to live it. I needed to witness the stark contrast between the parched winter landscape and the lush, vibrant chaos of the summer rains.”
A herd of buffalo camps out in the riverbed
Hinde was eager to capture the full annual cycle of Greater Kruger. During the dry winter months, water becomes scarce and wildlife concentrates along permanent rivers. Elephant and buffalo herds gather in large numbers, and predators take advantage of predictable movement. These conditions reveal social structures, hierarchies, and long-term behavioural patterns.
With the arrival of the summer rains, the landscape shifts dramatically. Vegetation thickens, visibility decreases, and the bush fills with birdlife and newborn antelope. Predators must adapt to new hunting conditions, and survival depends as much on concealment as strength. Experiencing both extremes was central to Hinde’s understanding of how the Greater Kruger functions as a system rather than a series of wildlife encounters.
A leopard rests in a tree, using elevation for safety, concealment, and observation – and to escape insect bites
Kruger private reserves and shared responsibility
The private reserves bordering Kruger National Park are integral to this system. Operating under shared conservation agreements, they have removed fences between properties and the national park, ensuring continuity of habitat. These reserves contribute significantly to conservation funding, research, and anti-poaching operations, while also carrying the responsibility of balancing tourism with ecological integrity.
Through extended time spent within these areas, Hinde observed how land management decisions influence wildlife movement and habitat quality. The history of each reserve – how it was established, managed, and integrated into the Greater Kruger – provides essential context for understanding the present landscape. Conservation here is not abstract; it is the result of deliberate, long-term planning.
A baobab dominates the landscape, a long-lived species central to many ecological processes
Kruger predators as indicators of balance
Predators play a defining role in the Greater Kruger, and Hinde’s observations of their behaviour form a key part of his narrative. Leopards, lions, and other apex predators are indicators of ecosystem health. Their hunting success, territorial stability, and interactions with prey reflect broader environmental conditions.
Rather than isolating dramatic moments, Hinde’s work places predator-prey interactions within a wider ecological framework. Extended observation reveals patterns shaped by season, terrain, and prey availability. These relationships regulate populations and influence how energy moves through the system, reinforcing the importance of intact landscapes.
A clash between males of rival coalitions near Jock Safari Lodge in the southern section of Kruger National Park. A pair of veterans who had long held this territory eventually tired of these frequent physical encounters and moved on, being displaced by the two younger lions
The people behind protection
Conservation in the Greater Kruger depends on people as much as wildlife. Rangers and anti-poaching units are a constant presence, working daily to protect animals and habitat from illegal exploitation.
“Gathering material wasn’t solely about the Big Five,” says Hinde. A huge part of the narrative is built on the custodians of this land. I was privileged to spend significant time with rangers and Anti-Poaching Units.”
Spending time with these custodians provided Hinde with a grounded perspective on the pressures facing the region and the effort required to maintain its integrity. Their work highlights the reality that Greater Kruger is not a wilderness untouched by human influence, but a protected landscape sustained through vigilance, cooperation, and long-term commitment.
A dehorned rhino mother and calf wallow at the waterhole
A record shaped by immersion
Kruger Safari emerged from this prolonged engagement with the Greater Kruger. Rather than attempting to define the region, it reflects what becomes visible when observation is repeated across seasons and years. The resulting narrative and imagery are shaped by patience and familiarity, allowing complexity to surface without simplification.
For readers interested in African wildlife, conservation, and the functioning of large, unfenced ecosystems, the story Gerald Hinde tells is ultimately about attention and continuity. The Greater Kruger reveals its depth slowly, to those willing to stay long enough to see how its many parts remain connected.
In documenting this landscape over time, Hinde offers not a summary of the Greater Kruger but a lived account of why it continues to matter.
A female leopard cleans and reassures her cubA summer storm builds over Greater Kruger, bringing rain that reshapes movement, feeding patterns, and visibility.A fiery encounter between hippos, reflecting intense competition for space and territorialityA rare interaction between two apex bird species – a southern ground-hornbill and a martial eagle. This martial eagle made attempts on four members of this ground-hornbill clan, only to give up when facing a fierce fight from this maleClash at the waterhole. The ultimate battle between lion and buffaloElephants cool themselves and drink in the river, using water to regulate body temperatureKing of the hill. A klipspringer stands alert on rocky terrain, adapted for balance and agility in steep landscapesLate light filters through the trees, marking the close of the day in the Greater KrugerVigilant chacma baboon sentries watch for threats from predators belowA black-backed jackal surprises a swarm of vultures at an impala killA pair of cheetah brothers resting in the late afternoon glowAffection between mom and her cubsA cheetah scans open ground, assessing prospects. Cheetahs rely on strategy, speed and timing – rather than strength – to secure preyIntrigued by movement in the treetops aboveOne of the territorial males in Greater Kruger’s Jock Safari Lodge concession
Further reading
Experience the Greater Kruger: Take a deep dive into the reserve that makes up one of Africa’s most iconic safari destinations: Greater Kruger, South Africa
The Greater Kruger area in South Africa is home to the legendary Big Five and a breathtaking diversity of landscapes, giving discerning travellers an authentic and exclusive safari experience. Read more Greater Kruger safaris, and plan your safari here
The Big Five – lions, leopards, elephants, buffaloes and rhinos – are Africa’s movers and shakers. They are either apex predators or important landscape engineers, and their mere presence ensures that our wild spaces remain so. Read more about seeing the Big 5 on safari here
About Gerald Hinde and Kruger Safari
Gerald Hinde’s photographic journey is rooted in a lifelong passion for wildlife. Educated at King Edward School in Johannesburg, he spent nearly three decades in the family motor business, serving as managing director before the company’s sale in 1989. That same year, he turned fully to wildlife photography, publishing his first book and launching a prolific creative career. Since then, Gerald has produced numerous acclaimed wildlife books and documentaries, earned major accolades and photography awards, and been widely published internationally. His work combines artistry with a deep commitment to conservation.
Kruger Safari, a beautifully produced coffee-table book, takes readers inside the private game reserves and concessions of Greater Kruger through Gerald’s lens, as well as through the words of Will Taylor. Combining exceptional wildlife photography with intimate, hard-won stories, it explores predator behaviour, rare encounters, reserve histories and the balance between conservation and luxury tourism.
How to get it: Kruger Safari is available through selected bookstores and online retailers specialising in wildlife, photography and African travel publications. Read more about the book here.
After more than four decades of travelling across Africa, our CEO Simon’s 2026 African safari wish list is no longer about ticking boxes – it’s about timing, nuance and returning to places that continue to evolve. From rising conservation success stories to predators, gentle giants and forests still keeping their secrets, this is a deeply personal look at where (and when) he hopes to travel in 2026 – and why expert planning remains the difference between an average safari and a life-defining one.
“Early in the year is a good time to create my travel wish list. If I don’t do that, the year marches on, and my plans tend to be last-minute and are often derailed by full flights and lodges.
When planning safaris, I usually focus on my favourite experiences and then work out the where and when, but sometimes my focus is on a specific place in Africa. Having travelled extensively in Africa for over 40 years, much of my wish list consists of repeats, but it also features a few first-time experiences and places.
One final thing before I reveal my 2026 travel wish list: Travel in Africa is all about timing. Not only are there distinct seasons that influence weather and wildlife movements, but there are also constantly changing cycles within seasons that shape the timing and location of your African safari. A few weeks too early/late or a few kilometres off course, you could miss the greatest show on Earth. And wouldn’t that be a pity? For example, if you want to witness the epic bat migration in Zambia’s Kasanka, you have to be there from mid-October to mid-December. If you want to see the dramatic Mara River crossings undertaken by the Great Migration wildebeest and zebra herds, and your only travel gap is May, then sadly your wish will not be realised.
And that’s why I recommend two safari planning essentials:
Early planning is essential to avoid missing the seasonal and cyclical fluxes and to secure your safari before the better lodges are booked out.
Consult with an experienced travel expert who has been there and done that. Software such as AI and Google, and the many pop-up travel planners on social media, may sound convincing. In reality, they are highly risky sources, often revealing limited or incorrect information – definitely not reliable for such a high-cost celebration of your life.
Of course, I won’t get to all of my list this year, but you can bet I will enjoy a few of these safaris and the others in the years to come. So, here goes (not in order of preference):
Kafue – rising African safari gem
A lion on the plains of Kafue
I want to get back to the vast Kafue in Zambia. Kafue was neglected for many years, and so suffered from poaching, but now, under the custodianship of the astoundingly successful wildlife NGO African Parks, it is a rising safari gem. The variety of habitats and feeling of being alone in the wilderness really does it for me. Kafue NP is Zambia’s best-kept safari secret, and the country’s oldest & largest national park. It is known for sweeping plains, wetlands & abundant wildlife. In the park’s far north, the Busanga Plains form a wildlife-rich mosaic of swamps, lagoons, palm groves and fig-studded islands.
Shumba Camp in Kafue
October – just about anywhere in Africa
Lions ready for a hunt in Etosha Pans National Park, Namibia
The standard advice is that June to September are the best safari months, and so October is often ignored by travellers. But October (and into mid-November) offers epic wildlife encounters, often at lower lodge prices. It’s the height of the dry season in Southern Africa, and so wildlife is easier to find in parched landscapes near remaining water sources. Temperatures are high, which is why many stay away; all the better for me. In East Africa, the Great Wildebeest Migration Mara River crossings are ongoing in early October (although less reliable than during August and September), trekking for the great apes – gorillas and chimpanzees – is at its best, and you can expect great weather on the coast and islands.
A wildebeest river crossing in the Maasai Mara
Wild dogs in the Okavango Delta & Khwai
Wild dogs in the Okavango Delta
Painted wolves are my favourite predator, and I absolutely adore Botswana’s Okavango Delta and Khwai. This year will see me back in this watery paradise when the puppies have emerged from their dens, and the pack movements are more predictable, usually from August to October. Side note: I have on several occasions stumbled across pangolins while following wild dogs on the hunt 😉
Aerial view of the Okavango Delta
Tuskers in Tsavo
Majestic super tuskers in Tsavo
I also have a thing for old male elephants of the large-tusked variety. Time in their presence stands still for me, and their sentient wisdom cleanses my soul. Sadly, these gentle giants are now few and far between, and the most reliable places to find them are Kenya’s Tsavo East and Amboseli National Parks. I have fond memories of safaris to Tsavo and want to go back in a more immersive way, following in the footsteps of many of our guests who have Walked with Giants. Check out this Kenya super tusker safari, which takes you right to the heart of the tusker action in Tsavo and Amboseli.
Accommodation while walking with giants is in colonial-era canvas tents
Bazaruto toes-in-the-sand – and more
A dugong in Bazaruto Archipelago National Park
Do you know that I have never embarked on a bush-and-beach safari combo? Although I love the ocean’s energy, I have never been one for lying in the sun. And so, my wish to visit Bazaruto in Mozambique is not about beach dinners by candlelight, sunset dhow cruises and cocktails, although they do sound enticing. I want to find whale sharks, manta rays and dugongs! And I may pair Bazaruto with either a Greater Kruger lodge or a return visit to the exquisite, biodiverse Gorongosa National Park (another conservation success story).
Azure waters in the Archipelago
Tracking chimps in Nyungwe
Chimp trekking in Nyungwe
This one is a sore point for me. A few years ago, I arrived at Rwanda’s Nyungwe National Park only to be refused entry after being diagnosed with COVID-19. I spent 4 days in a nearby hotel while my colleague tracked chimps, gawped at a troop of hundreds of colobus monkeys, and attempted to find Shelley’s crimsonwing. This tiny finch has never been photographed (except when accidentally netted during biodiversity research programs). Nyungwe is another rising conservation success story under the care of African Parks and is well worth a visit for those who seek montane forest biodiversity hotspots. I will be back on unfinished business.
Embarking on a guided walk in the forests of Nyungwe
Walking in the Nsefu Sector, South Luangwa
Walking in Nsefu
Of course, many have now woken up to the epic walking safari experience in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park, specifically in the Nsefu Sector. This is thanks to the BBC’s Kingdom series, narrated by David Attenborough. Nsefu is the birthplace of walking safaris, and an old stomping ground for me. I want to go back soon.
An afternoon back at camp in Nsefu
Ruaha – remote and unpeopled
Striped hyena in Ruaha
Ruaha National Park in Tanzania’s southern circuit holds many fond memories that I want to rekindle. In addition to hosting about 10% of Africa’s lions, this arid baobab-strewn landscape also supports significant populations of leopards, wild dogs, and cheetahs, as well as vast herds of buffalo and Tanzania’s largest elephant population. I want to go back to find the elusive striped hyena.
A giant baobab in Ruaha
Odzala-Kokoua – feel like an explorer of old
Gorilla watching from a tree-top hide in Odzaloa-Kokoua National Park
Finally, I NEED to go back to Odzala-Kokoua National Park in Congo-Brazzaville – another area protected by African Parks. My team and I have made no secret of what makes this early-stage tourism destination attractive for experienced travellers seeking something different. I love spending hours in the elevated treehouses watching western lowland gorillas, forest elephants, bongos, and a host of other secretive forest species. I also want to lay my eyes on golden potto, Demidoff’s dwarf galago, Lord Derby’s flying squirrel and a host of other mysterious creatures.”
Elevated hides allow for incredible viewing of Odzala-Kokoua’s baïs
“Once I have settled my mind, my team of experienced travel planners will take over to ensure an exceptional, seamless safari.“
Plan your Okavango Delta safari: when to go, where to stay and how to experience Botswana’s iconic inland oasis in intimate camps: here’s our Okavango Delta safari planner
Your safari guide to South Luangwa & Nsefu, Zambia: game drives & walking safaris, predator-rich wilderness, top camps, & Luangwa River magic – check out our South Luangwa safari planner here
Kafue NP is Zambia’s oldest & largest national park – an African safari destination known for sweeping plains, wetlands & abundant wildlife. Read more about Kafue here
New research analyses how permanent tourist camps influence lion density across the Maasai Mara.
Highest lion densities occur in areas without camps, regardless of prey availability or habitat.
Increasing camp density sharply reduces the maximum number of lions an area can support.
Newly built camps are linked to rapid, local declines in lion density.
Strategic tourism planning is critical to balance conservation outcomes with tourism benefits.
Wildlife tourism is one of Kenya’s most important sources of conservation funding. In the Maasai Mara, tourism revenue underpins protected areas, supports community conservancies, and helps maintain one of Africa’s most intact large-mammal ecosystems. Lions are central to this system. They are a flagship species for tourism and an ecological keystone that shapes prey behaviour, predator interactions, and ecosystem stability.
A new study published in Conservation Science and Practice examines a less discussed side of this relationship. It asks whether the physical presence of tourist camps and lodges affects where lions live, and how many the landscape can support. The findings suggest that while tourism finances conservation, the infrastructure that enables it can also reduce local lion density if poorly planned.
Tourist camps of Maasai Mara
Tourist camps are permanent structures. Unlike vehicles or visitors, which come and go, camps remain fixed in the landscape and bring continuous human activity, including staff movement, vehicle traffic, lighting, and noise. Over time, this can change how wildlife uses space.
The study focuses on the Maasai Mara National Reserve and eight surrounding conservancies, covering 2,363 square kilometres. The area has seen steady growth in tourism infrastructure over several decades, with camps often clustered along rivers, where shade, water, and scenery are most attractive for visitors.
Rivers are also crucial for lions. They attract prey, provide cover, and form part of established pride territories. This overlap between prime lion habitat and preferred camp locations underscores the importance of spatial planning.
Rivers attract prey and shape lion territories, placing prime lion habitat alongside popular locations for tourist camps
How the research was done
Researchers analysed lion distribution using eight annual dry-season surveys conducted between 2014 and 2022. Individual lions were identified by whisker spot patterns, a standard method that enables reliable tracking over time. These sightings were used to estimate lion density.
Tourist camps were mapped across the study area, including their size and year of establishment. Camp size was used as a proxy for overall impact, as larger camps typically involve more staff, vehicles, and activity. The researchers then calculated a “camp kernel density”, which reflects both the number and size of camps within a given area and estimates how far their influence extends across the landscape.
To separate the effect of camps from natural habitat factors, the analysis accounted for vegetation type and distance to rivers. Prey availability was also examined and found not to be linked to camp density.
What the study found
The highest lion densities occurred in areas with no tourist camps. As camp density increased, the maximum number of lions an area could support declined sharply. This pattern held even after accounting for vegetation and proximity to rivers.
The authors found that “maximum lion density declined significantly with increasing camp density, and that this relationship was not explained by prey availability or habitat type. In other words, lions were not avoiding camps because prey was scarce. They were avoiding the camps themselves.
The study also examined what happened when new camps were built. Between 2016 and 2022, 24 new camps were established within the study area. In the grid cells affected by these latest developments, lion density declined significantly in the years following construction. This suggests that displacement can occur quickly after camps are established.
There were short periods when lion densities increased near camps, most notably during 2020, when tourism activity dropped sharply due to COVID-19. This temporary rebound supports the conclusion that human activity, rather than the physical landscape alone, plays a key role in shaping lion space use.
A lion watches hot air balloons drift overhead: there is a growing overlap between wildlife space and tourism activity
Lion density in Maasai Mara
Lion density is more than a count of animals. It reflects how much space lions can safely use and how stable pride territories can remain. When high-quality habitat becomes unavailable, lions are pushed into smaller areas, increasing competition between prides and raising the likelihood of conflict.
Within protected areas, this can lead to disrupted social structures, reduced breeding success, and lower cub survival. Outside protected areas, the risks are higher still. Lions that move beyond reserve boundaries face conflict with people, livestock losses, and retaliatory killing. Habitat displacement inside reserves can therefore have consequences well beyond their borders.
Lions also play a wider ecological role. As apex predators, they influence herbivore behaviour, suppress mesopredators, and contribute to nutrient cycling. Local reductions in lion density can alter these processes, even if total population numbers appear stable at larger scales.
Lions influence herbivore behaviour
Tourism benefits and trade-offs
The authors are explicit that wildlife tourism remains essential to conservation in the Maasai Mara. Community conservancies, in particular, rely on tourism revenue to prevent land conversion, support livelihoods, and reduce pressure from agriculture and livestock.
The study does not argue against tourism or tourist camps. Instead, it highlights a planning problem. Camps tend to cluster in the same high-value areas, creating zones of concentrated impact. The research suggests that it is this aggregation, rather than tourism itself, that poses the most significant risk to lions.
The authors recommend maintaining low camp densities in areas favoured by lions and avoiding high-density clusters altogether. They also propose using spatial planning tools, such as camp kernel density mapping, to assess the likely impact of new developments before construction begins.
“Humans influence large predators primarily through fear and avoidance rather than only through direct killing or reductions in prey,” says study author Niels Mogensen. “For lions, tourism camps create a persistent signal that certain areas are unsafe, even when habitat conditions and prey availability remain suitable. In effect, lions are indicating that human infrastructure alters how safe a place feels rather than how much food it provides, and that change in perceived risk alone is sufficient to reduce local densities.”
What this study means for the future of Maasai Mara
The Maasai Mara remains one of Africa’s most crucial lion landscapes, but it is also under growing pressure from development, tourism growth, and surrounding land-use change. Decisions about where and how tourist infrastructure is built will shape conservation outcomes for decades.
This study provides evidence that poorly distributed tourism infrastructure can limit the ecological carrying capacity of protected areas. It also shows that wildlife can respond quickly when human pressure is reduced, underscoring both the risks and the opportunities of management choices.
“Tourism remains sustainable as long as it does not make wildlife behaviour, rather than prey availability or habitat quality, the primary limiting factor,” says Mogensen. “It supports conservation until it alters how animals perceive safety across the landscape. Beyond that threshold, even well-intentioned and low-impact tourism becomes an ecological pressure, not because it directly kills lions, but because it subtly displaces them from the areas they need most.”
Balancing tourism revenue with ecological function is not simple. But understanding where the limits lie is a necessary step to ensuring that conservation landscapes remain viable, not only for visitors but also for the species that define them.
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter and more inspiration for your African safari.
From our CEO – Simon Espley
Super tusker Craig’s death serves as a reminder of why these gentle giants are so crucial for human society. I am not talking about their immense genetic importance to Loxodonta africana, their essential roles in elephant society, or the significant revenue generated for local people by tourists seeking to meet these sentient ambassadors.
No, I am referring to their importance for mankind’s soul.
Observe, if you will, how we fixate on dinosaurs, sabre-toothed cats, woolly mammoths, dodos and other extinct creatures. We dig up their remains to study and display them, we try to re-engineer them, and we make movies about them. We wish and fantasise that we were around when these creatures roamed Earth, as if we would have done something to prevent their demise. Each time a species disappears, we humans lose a part of our collective soul.
Well, the last remaining large-tusked elephants roam parts of Africa right now, and ivory poachers and trophy hunters are picking them off. Are we as a species going to allow these icons of Africa to disappear, and then worship at their grave sites, with those of us fortunate enough to meet a super tusker reminiscing about the good old days? Time will tell.
You can help prevent that from happening:
Embark on a responsible journey to view tuskers, crafted with care to benefit local people and support effective conservation operations. We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari booking to well-run conservation organisations, including the Tsavo Trust, via our Guarding Tuskers campaign.
Reject the unproven claims by trophy hunters that killing the remaining tuskers is ‘sustainable’ and placing commercial and emotional pressure on them and decision-makers to stop the killing
Share accurate information about the plight of tuskers with your friends and social media network so that they, too, can make informed decisions
A new year has a way of nudging us awake early, full of plans and good intentions. Out in the mountains, though, nature offers a gentler lesson. At the height of summer in the southern hemisphere, the dawn chorus is in full swing. Yet even here, not everyone rushes to greet the day.
New research from the University of the Free State shows that three warblers studied in South Africa’s Golden Gate National Park happily delay their sunrise songs when mornings are too cold. These small birds wait until conditions make sense, saving their energy for when it counts. It is a useful reminder for the year ahead. By all means, start early and seize the day. Just remember that knowing when to pause, warm up, and try again later can be just as wise.
This week, we reflect on the passing of super tusker Craig in the Amboseli ecosystem, and step into the shifting light and life that can be found in the Maasai Mara outside of peak season: during the Little Rains. Check out these stories below.
Yours in wild adventure,
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
FAREWELL TO TUSKER CRAIG
Craig, one of Africa’s last iconic super tuskers, has died of natural causes in Amboseli, Kenya
MAASAI MARA RAINS
A photographic journey through Kenya’s Maasai Mara during the secret season’s Little Rains
Journey to Kenya’s spectacular Tsavo and Amboseli in search of the great tusked elephants that define Africa’s vast open landscapes. Alongside meaningful time with these gentle giants, you will seek out Tsavo’s famous maneless lions, the extraordinary gerenuk, the hirola (the world’s rarest antelope) and a rich array of other wildlife. Witness hippos and crocodiles from a glass-fronted underwater chamber at a crystal-clear spring, observe the feeding of orphaned elephants, and stay alert for the elusive, rarely seen striped hyena. Time spent with tuskers is an investment in your soul.
Fancy a guided photographic safari in Kenya’s Maasai Mara? Join award-winning photographer Arnfinn Johansen on this exclusive safari for four guests. Highlights include guided game drives with an experienced Maasai guide in a modified photographic vehicle and accommodation at Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp. Departure Dates: 20–28 November 2026.
First identified in 2014, super tusker SO1 is instantly recognisable: a small mole on his ear, a hole in the lower lobe, and one tusk – the left – much longer than the right. Now around 40–45 years old, he roams Tsavo with the unmistakable authority of a true tusker
When in musth, SO1 ranges widely in search of females – a reminder of the restless, high-stakes lives led by Tsavo’s great tuskers.
We’ve partnered with Tsavo Trust to help protect some of Africa’s last remaining giants. Fewer than 100 tuskers are thought to survive across the continent, and at least eight still call Tsavo home. These rare elephants – whose tusks brush the ground – are prime targets for poachers and trophy hunters beyond Kenya’s borders.
Deep in Botswana lies the Okavango Delta, one of Africa’s richest wildernesses. Renowned for dense predator populations and abundant plains game, it offers ethical off-road tracking, walking safaris, night drives, and mokoro excursions. Explore the Delta with Africa Geographic, where wildlife thrives in its purest form. (01:49) Click here to watch
Photographer Irene Amiet’s photo journey through Maasai Mara during the Little Rains brought incredible wildlife experiences and photos.
Maasai Mara’s Little Rains typically arrive in November.
Visiting during the Little Rains brings richly layered photographic moments.
Fewer visitors during the shoulder season allow for quieter sightings and more considered photography.
Photographer Irene Amiet arrived in Kenya’s Maasai Mara National Reserve during the ‘Little Rains’ that typically come in November, drawn by the promise of shifting light, open horizons and encounters shaped as much by weather as by wildlife. Visiting this popular safari destination outside of peak season brought a truly unique experience away from the crowds. Moving between storm and silence, solitude and spectacle, her journey unfolded across plains where predators linger, giraffes drift like apparitions and the vastness of the landscape reframes both photography and presence. Irene stayed at Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp, where there are no fences between the park and the community land, and wildlife roams throughout the area.
“In the opening paragraph of Out of Africa, Karen Blixen pays homage to the giraffe’s mystical, otherworldly grace. After many encounters with these animals across southern Africa, it was only on my first visit to Kenya’s Maasai Mara that I finally understood them in a landscape that gives Blixen’s words their full measure. Kenya’s vast skies hold giraffes suspended somewhere between heaven and earth.
It is these wide-open plains, rolling endlessly into the distance, that tell the giraffe’s story best. Here, where weather is the composer to whose score animals, rivers, trees and grasses conduct their lives, it is the giraffe that commands the horizon.
We chose to arrive in late October, at the very start of the Little Rains – a time to smell thunder long before clouds finally drench the savannah, and to witness the restless play of sun and storm beneath which one can chase endlessly changing light.
Giraffes dancing at sunset
Roads, valleys and the pulse of Kenya
For a long time, I had been almost shy of visiting Kenya because of the number of people it attracts. I am selfish in nature, seeking quiet – the sounds of birds, the wind in the grass, the lion’s call at night – uninterrupted by crackling radios and an armada of four-wheel drives.
But curiosity eventually won. A good friend showed us images taken around his camp – visual nuggets that drew me, like so many photographers before me, into the Mara’s imagery gold rush. From the moment our vehicle left Nairobi and crossed the escarpment, with the Kedong Valley unfurling far below, I was utterly captive to the land.
Shacks clung precariously to the abyss, and with each daring overtake in busy traffic my heart galloped faster. It was the adrenaline of African roads, a reminder that life here feels both more intense and more fragile. Four hours later we left the tar behind and began our bone-rattling journey to Aitong.
Woken from a slumber, I opened my eyes to herds of cattle scattered across green hills, among them the occasional zebra. Children ran alongside our vehicle through villages, waving and laughing, while women stood by the roadside dressed in brilliant turquoise and red – beacons of grace in a roughened world. This contrast between hardship and beauty, perseverance and an often-unforgiving environment, is woven into the land’s very essence.
Just as cheetahs move alone at noon – active when larger, stronger cats sleep, exploiting the hottest hours when others seek shade – so humans find their own niches, shaping lives and strategies against the odds.
What awaited us on the journey ahead was a landscape alive with presence and promise: hippos lingering in quieter reaches of the Mara River, their rounded backs breaking the surface as water slid steadily past; elephants moving across open plains, their vast forms set in stark contrast against towering, storm-filled skies; cheetahs following solitary paths through heat and light, unhurried and intent; and lions everywhere: resting on termite mounds, pacing the grasslands, emerging from the rains with new zest.
An elephant under playful clouds on the Maasai Mara plainsHippo in the Mara RiverLionesses under a downpour of “Little Rains”
Under the spell of the Little Rains
The Little Rains, shorter and less predictable than the long rains, usually fall between late October and early December, often delivering the essence of several seasons in a single day. Downpours transformed the grasslands from bristly doormats into silken carpets of fresh shoots. Lions stoically waited out the rain, just as we sat huddled in our waterproofs, watching them watching us. When the breeze wiped the clouds clean, the lions stood and shook their manes into brilliant watery halos, while cubs pranced about on wet paws, flicking droplets across their mother’s nose.
Shaking off the rain in a haloLionesses and cubs plodding through puddlesCubs playing after rainfall
Predators, patience and the open plains of Maasai Mara
Our first cheetah appeared at sunrise, a wandering silhouette pacing the horizon. When we found her again later, she stood sentinel beside a lone tree – two living forms, protagonists in a midday play. Only an open landscape creates such opportunities for contrast, and already I was grateful we had come.
Cheetah sentinel alongside a lone tree
From before sunrise to after sunset, our days stretched into 13-hour marathons in an open Land Cruiser custom-built for photography, with low hatches, open sides and an exposed roof. Never did I feel confined. Driving across the Mara, with the horizon spreading in every direction, the landscape seemed to transcend the body itself; the breeze might just as easily have carried me aloft. The world felt full of treasure, and our task was to capture those gems on camera.
Irene in the specially modified photographic vehicleIrene and her guide, James
At times, we were utterly alone. We could blink and imagine ourselves back in Blixen’s Africa – until our guide, James, dropped the vehicle into gear and rallied us across the plains toward a sighting. First come, first served: positioning was everything.
There she was – a leopard draped high in a tree. Studying the trunk, we noticed a subtle lean that created a diagonal ledge, a likely route for descent. We positioned ourselves and waited. And waited.
Vehicles began to arrive. Some left after half an hour, but more continued to gather until nearly thirty surrounded the tree on three sides. The fourth remained clear, thanks to radio communication that preserved a clean backdrop. The leopard dozed on. When she shifted, a hundred cameras lifted in unison, only to sink again as she resettled and slept. Two hours later, movement – first a yawn, then a fluid descent, exactly where we had hoped.
Finally, leaving her tree
How, in a setting filled with competing languages, buzzing radios and the machine-gun chatter of older camera shutters, did the wild heartbeat we crave on safari still endure? Because beyond the carousel of vehicles, far out on the horizon where clouds once again sculpted the sky, the Mara stretched wide and untamed. We were merely passing through. The leopard had occupied her tree a hundred years ago, and – if we do her justice – her daughter’s daughters will be there long after us. The scene amused me, a quiet reminder of humanity’s absurdity: our tendency to rush, stage and collect, often removed from reality itself.
Giraffes cross the river, almost in slow motionElephant silhouette at sunrise
When the sky clears and giraffes sail past
When the rains finally moved on, the sky invited us to play. I mentioned to James that a clear sunset was shaping up, and twenty minutes later – after another race across hills, through two rivers and a strip of woodland – he delivered me to a plain where I could frame a topi against the setting sun, seconds before it vanished in fire.
Topi at sunset
Letting go of the adventure-sport rush of photography in favour of quiet artistry is not always easy. What followed, however, was a procession of giraffes gliding past in the twilight, small stones rolling softly beneath massive hooves. Their passage was almost soundless, like ghost ships at night – there, then gone – vast forms dissolving into silhouettes, swallowed by distance.
The crowds, the rush of the day, all fell away. What remained was the image Blixen had evoked more than sixty years ago, glowing steadily in my heart. And in that moment, I knew I had finally met these wondrous creatures.”
Wildebeest under stormy skiesIrene stayed at Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp during her stayGiraffes at dawn on the open plainsOltepesi is based in a Maasai village and is unfenced, allowing a truly authentic Mara experience
This interesting introduction to Kenya’s Maasai Mara will have you contacting Africa Geographic to book your next African safari. Read more about Maasai Mara here
Traveller Irene Amiet visited Zimbabwe’s famed Mana Pools National Park to photograph the other-worldly wilderness of this Zambezi kingdom. Read about her trip here
AboutIrene Amiet
Irene Amiet is a Swiss-born writer and photographer whose work is shaped by years spent living and working across Africa, the Americas and Europe.
With a background in tourism and hands-on conservation, including rainforest advocacy in Panama and big cat research in South Africa, she brings field experience to her storytelling.
Her work is driven by a deep respect for wild places and a belief in storytelling as a tool for conservation awareness. Now based in north-west England, Irene co-owns a fine art photography gallery, contributes to international publications and returns to southern Africa whenever she can. Irene is also the founder of conservation publishing platform, Wilder World.
Craig, iconic super tusker, died of natural causes on Olgulului community land in the Amboseli ecosystem, on 3 January 2026
His death has been confirmed by Big Life Foundation and Amboseli Trust for Elephants
Born in January 1972, Craig was among East Africa’s last great tuskers
He symbolised the success of long-term, community-based elephant conservation
Craig, one of Africa’s most iconic super tusker elephants, has died of natural causes in the Amboseli ecosystem in Kenya. His death has been confirmed by Amboseli Trust for Elephants and Big Life Foundation.
Craig died on Olgulului, one of the community areas surrounding Amboseli National Park. Craig’s passing follows a period of declining health. In November last year, rumours of his death circulated, though these were untrue. At the time, however, it was clear that he was experiencing serious digestive problems, a significant concern for an elephant of his advanced age. He later recovered, but conservation teams were aware that time with him was likely limited.
On the night before his death, Craig began collapsing intermittently, standing up and moving only short distances between episodes. Big Life Foundation’s rangers remained with him throughout the night. At 03:32 AM, Craig lay down and did not get up again. There was nothing that could be done to assist him.
Craig died in the early hours of the morning, 3 January 2026
Evidence from poorly chewed plant material found in his dung suggests that Craig was no longer grinding his food properly, indicating severe tooth wear. Elephants progress through six sets of molars during their lives, and once the final set becomes worn, their ability to feed effectively declines. A post-mortem examination is pending, but this is believed to be the most likely cause of his death.
Born in January 1972 to Cassandra of the CB elephant family, Craig had just turned 54 years old at the time of his death. He was among the last remaining great tuskers of East Africa, with each tusk weighing more than 100 pounds. Only a few dozen elephants of this stature remain in the region.
Craig and his askaris, with Mount Kilimanjaro in the backgroundCraig was an iconic super tusker of Amboseli. Craig was well known for his docile and calm nature, which made him a favourite subject for photographers
Craig was widely known and deeply valued, particularly by the local communities with whom he shared his range. Thanks to long-term protection efforts, he survived decades of poaching pressure, habitat loss and human-elephant conflict in the region, and lived an unusually long life for a bull carrying such large tusks.
Craig is believed to have fathered many calves and represented the success of sustained, community-based conservation in the Greater Amboseli ecosystem.
Craig’s passing follows the recent natural deaths of other well-known super tuskers, including Tim of Amboseli and Lugard and Wide Satao of Tsavo, underscoring both the rarity of these elephants and the importance of continued protection for those that remain.
Further reading
Searching for super tuskers? We spotted three of these legendary elephants (including Craig) in one safari trip – here’s how we did it
AG has partnered with Tsavo Trust – an organisation that monitors the elephant populations of the Tsavo Conservation Area, specifically focusing on tuskers. It does so in close cooperation with the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) and research and conservation partners. Read more about how you can help us save Tsavo’s tuskers here
The need to protect large-tusked and potentially large-tusked elephants from poaching and excessive selective hunting pressure is more apparent than ever as the progressive decrease in average tusk size over the past three decades is potentially leading to over-exploitation of older bulls. Read more here.
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter and more inspiration for your African safari.
From our CEO – Simon Espley
What does “authentic” mean to you?
I have always used the term to describe anything that aligns with reality rather than expectation. And, because my life lens is almost exclusively about nature and wilderness, authenticity means being true to those deities. Authentic safari experiences are shaped by nature and local culture, and not by what someone thinks visitors want to see.
Nature cannot be canned; it is in a constant state of change, and every safari should be different to your last and next safari. We must, at all costs, resist the considerable efforts by some to manufacture predictable cut-and-paste wildlife encounters.
And so my crew of exceptional travel planners and storytellers will always steer you away from wildlife petting facilities, large resorts, canned cultural encounters and crowded wildlife events where the press of humanity overwhelms nature. They will, instead, offer experiences, encounters and accommodation options that provide a window into Africa’s soul.
Come on safari with us; enjoy and celebrate the ever-changing, eclectic wild Africa lest they pave her and put up a parking lot.
Finally, here’s wishing you an absolutely epic festive season with friends and family. See you in the new year 🙂
Good news from Central Africa. Twenty-four southern white rhino (Ceratotherium simum simum) have been safely translocated to Garamba National Park in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, strengthening one of the continent’s most hopeful conservation stories. This latest move builds on the return of white rhino to Garamba in 2023, after a 20-year absence, and brings the park closer to supporting a stable, breeding population. The northern white rhino (Ceratotherium simum cottoni) used to occur in Garamba, but the species is now functionally extinct in the wild due to poaching, with only two females surviving in Kenya.
The operation was complex and carefully staged, involving months of planning, specialist veterinary care, and a long journey by road and air across several countries. It reflects years of collaboration between conservation organisations, local communities, funders and park authorities. Part of African Parks’ Rhino Rewild initiative, the translocation helps restore Garamba’s ecological balance and secures a future for rhinos in a landscape where they belong.
In other news, our Photographer of the Year 2025 winnersrecently visited Odzala-Kokoua NP in Congo-Brazzaville for their winner’s prize trip – and we bring you the tale of jungle adventures below. Plus, we feature a gallery of epic photos from the Great Rift Valley, from photographer Shem Compion’s latest book, The Rift: Scar of Africa. Check this out below.
Wishing you a joyful festive season and a wonderful start to the new year. We’ll see you in 2026!
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
GORILLAS IN OUR MIDST
An AG safari into Odzala-Kokoua, where gorillas, forest elephants & baïs make for a jungle adventure – Photographer of the Year 2025
THE RIFT
Explore Shem Compion’s The Rift: Scar of Africa – 20 years of Rift Valley photography across 11 countries, from people to wildlife
Trek for an up-close encounter of habituated western lowland gorillas on this eight-day safari. Find the hidden wildlife on guided baï and rainforest walks. Take a river cruise or go on a kayak safari down Lekolo River and experience the wealth of life living in and on the shores of these waterways. This safari will leave you spellbound and with unforgettable memories to take home.
Watch unhabituated western lowland gorillas and other shy forest creatures from the comfort of elevated treehouses overlooking forest clearings. Find gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes, bongos, dwarf crocodiles, huge flocks of grey parrots and green pigeons, and other iconic wildlife species that roam the forests, baïs and rivers of Odzala-Kokoua.
This year, because you booked your safari with us, AG was able to make valuable donations to organisations doing vital conservation work. We have helped to protect big tuskers, save poached pangolins, monitor and research leopard populations under threat, and rescue, rehabilitate and release critically endangered vultures. The funds from your safari have been vital in helping protect Africa’s wildlife and drive impactful conservation efforts.
Thank you for being a part of these incredible efforts. Together, we’re creating a brighter future for Africa’s wildlife! When you travel with us, you’re not just exploring Africa’s wild places – you’re helping protect them.
Ready to plan your next life-changing safari?
Let us craft your dream journey – and know that your adventure supports the creatures that need it most. Check out some of our safari ideas here.
The new year rises with the African sun – hot air balloons drifting over the Maasai Mara, playful wild dog packs in the mud, flamingos painting the shallows pink. Gorillas meet your gaze through verdant greens. This is a toast to the trackers who read stories in sand, to the firelit faces and star-drawn skies, to every breach and dive, and every thundering sprint across the savannah. Here’s to another year of saying yes to the continent that changes everything. Explore with us: Join us for an Africa Geographic safari (02:00) Click here to watch
If you’ve ever read a childhood jungle story and wondered what it would feel like to step into those green pages, Odzala-Kokoua National Park has an answer. Not a neat one. Not a comfortable one. But a real one.
Our mission was simple on paper: escort the Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year 2025 winners (and partners) into the equatorial forests of Congo-Brazzaville, and go looking for western lowland gorillas, forest elephants, buffalo and all the secretive in-betweens. In reality, it was a prize safari that quickly became something bigger: a shared expedition into one of Africa’s last truly wild green worlds.
Thank you to our generous partners for this year’s competition, Ukuri and African Parks, for supporting this celebration of Africa. The overall winners, runners up and their partners enjoyed an Africa Geographic safari exploring the primal forests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote north of Congo-Brazzaville – in search of lowland gorillas, forest elephants, forest buffaloes and much more. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2025 prizes here. Congratulations to our winners: Christina Schwenck (winner), Mary Schrader (runner-up) and Ernest Porter (runner-up), who joined us for this incredible adventure.
A forest baï in Odzala-Kokoua National Park
Brazzaville: Congo River, cold beers, and a crash course in cash
Brazzaville greets you with the mighty Congo River – wide, braided, and so vast it looks like the sea until the city edges into view. The Radisson sits on the waterfront with a fine view and working air conditioning, which feels like a small miracle after long-haul flights and airport checks that come in layers.
And then: money. Congo doesn’t do casual currency – you’ll be living in Congolese francs, and if your cash is creased, torn, or even slightly offended, it may be rejected with the confidence of a customs officer. There’s a certain “communication by tone, gesture and ancestors” rhythm to the city, and by late afternoon, I’d had enough of hand signals to last a year. Still, that first shared dinner next to the hotel – local Ngok beer in heroic-sized bottles, a menu negotiated through translation and optimism – did what good food always does. It turned strangers into friends.
Restaurant Les Relais De L’Alima in Oyo: the ‘halfway’ stop between Brazzaville and Imbalanga, overlooking the Alima River
The road north: 15 hours, one breakdown, and a rainforest waterfall… inside the car
We left Brazzaville before dawn and quickly learned the first rule of Congo travel: schedules are more suggestion than promise. Vehicles arrived in their own time, plans flexed, and the usual ten-hour drive quietly stretched into something far more ambitious.
A Land Cruiser differential gave up in a puff of drama, and we reshuffled people, camera gear and bags into fewer vehicles with the cheerful chaos of human Tetris. Then the rain arrived and delivered our signature moment: the roof seal had perished, so every burst of speed sent water spilling into the back seats like a neat indoor waterfall. Fellow traveller Michelle, our Ukuri representative, and I rode it out from the “boot,” drenched and laughing, holding luggage over our heads like offerings to the weather gods.
Along the way, the landscape shifted from open country into thicker and thicker forest – and with it, the roadside economy changed too: produce became bananas, then charcoal became constant, then logging trucks started hauling tree trunks so large it was hard to look at them without feeling something tighten in the chest.
We paused at the equator, met an Irishman cycling from Spain to Cape Town, and by nightfall, the forest closed around the road as the African Parks signboard finally ushered us into the trees.
Camp Imbalanga: a forest home in Odzala-Kokoua
Camp Imbalanga is exactly what you want in a place like this: simple, smart, and positioned where the forest does the talking. Tents sit on raised decks under palm-frond roofs, with open-air bathrooms designed for airflow because humidity here is not a concept – it’s a lifestyle.
That first night, we ate warm and comforting chicken curry with coconut, rice and salad, and listened to the forest’s plops, hoots and clicks.
Forest accommodation at Camp Imbalanga
I enjoyed a visit from a wolf spider the size of my hand in my shower, startling me. She did a lap around the wall and then disappeared. Bark orb spiders were everywhere too: beautiful yellow bodies with black blotches, sometimes with orange. Sleep arrived, carried in by exhaustion and a chorus that sounded like the forest tuning up for a performance.
After dark, the forest shifts gears. From our tents, we listened to an orchestra of unseen life – frogs clicking like loose change, insects whining and pulsing, distant hoots and low calls that were impossible to place. Head torches carved small, nervous tunnels of light along the walkways, and every trip back to bed felt like a quiet negotiation with the darkness. It was the kind of night that reminds you the forest doesn’t sleep.
Imbalanga Baï: waiting, learning, and the art of being quiet
Our first morning at Imbalanga Baï’s covered treehouse hide (mirador) began with colobus monkeys on the treeline and ended with them down on the mud – long coats flowing, babies clinging, the whole troop moving like dancers across a stage. No gorillas yet. But Odzala is like that – it doesn’t hand you your wish list; it offers you its own personal recommendation of delights.
We walked forest trails with the team, learned to read the small signs – snapped stems, fresh dung, the scuffed mud where something heavy had crossed hours earlier. The forest is not loud about its secrets. It whispers them, and you have to earn the translation.
A troop of black-and-white colobus monkeysA black-fronted duiker spotted in the baï
Then came the sitting. Hours in the mirador, gazing into a clearing that looks empty until it isn’t. A black-fronted duiker. A striking crested malimbe. A cuckoo-hawk sighting that left the photographers buzzing. And sweat bees – an airborne nuisance with a personal vendetta against ears, eyes and patience. The truth is, a baï rewards stillness, and we were a big group full of camera gear, energy, and the occasional dropped water bottle. Odzala teaches humility quickly.
For the photographers on our trip – Christina Schwenck, Mary Schrader and Ernest Porter – Odzala was both a dream and discipline. Light was scarce, backgrounds unruly, and subjects appeared without warning – often half-hidden, often fleeting. Cameras fogged, lenses sweated, and patience became as important as shutter speed. But when it worked, it really worked: a colobus stepping into a shaft of light, parrots streaking overhead, a duiker frozen mid-step.
Photographers settled in at the baï miradorCamp Imbalanga’s covered mirador
Moba and Lokoué: storms, riverways, and a jungle expedition
The next chapter began before 4am and included a rainforest storm so dramatic it felt staged: lightning, thunder, sheets of rain. We pivoted plans, then walked through the Moba complex of baïs – elephant trails through thick jungle Marantaceae tunnels, clearings with pools and streams framed by towering trees, each opening like a secret room in a cathedral.
Eventually we reached the Lokoué River and climbed into an aluminium boat that felt far too small for the scale of what we were entering. The river journey was pure explorer-novel energy – rainforest arching overhead, monkeys moving through canopies, palm-nut vultures perched like sentries, hornbills whizzing overhead lifting lazily ahead of us, and guides reading submerged stumps and hidden channels as casually as a city driver reads traffic. In shallower water, we dragged the boat, laughed, got bitten by tsetse flies, and arrived at a fly-camp that reminded us how little a human actually needs when the world is doing the entertaining.
Palm-nut vulture sitting sentry along the river
There was something deeply calming about moving at water speed after the days on foot – the boat slipping forward, the forest sliding by, and the sense that for a short while, we were being carried rather than pushing our way through.
Listening to the sounds of the forest while floating down the Lokoué River
The next morning, we hiked to Lokoué Baï in the dark to try for African grey parrots. We saw them – briefly, wild and real overhead – then another storm pinned us in a leaking hide for hours while branches crashed down nearby with Jurassic heft. Later, swollen from tsetse bites and slick with sweat, a river swim felt like medicine.
Greater spot-nosed monkey
And in between the adventure beats were the small, human ones: soaking our bodies neck-deep in warm water at the jetty, joking with our hosts Présence and Vlad, the hilarity of navigating fly-camp loo realities, watching a tiny sunbird build a nest right beside the deck, and hearing chimpanzees whooping from across the river – invisible, unmistakable, and spine-tingling.
Photographer of the Year 2025 runner-up Ernest Porter hiking through the forest
The Odzala-Kokoua moment: eleven gorillas
Back at Imbalanga, after a bumpy drive and the “we smell like we’ve lived in a swamp” fatigue that makes everyone slightly feral, we got word that the photographers who had stayed behind at camp saw gorillas while we were away. The mood shifted as we sighed in relief – the pressure to find them has eased. But some of us – Ramona (AG senior safari expert), Michelle and I – had yet to see them.
Searching for the wonders of the forest
And then, as if the forest decided we’d earned a softer kind of magic, the trip gave us a moment that had nothing to do with wildlife. A guest got down on one knee and asked the question that changes everything. There were stunned faces, then happy tears, then the kind of laughter that spills out of you when you’ve been living in humidity and wonder for days. In a place as primal as Odzala, it felt strangely perfect – a reminder that while we’d come for gorillas and elephants, we were also collecting a small, bright human story to carry home.
In another magical moment, Vlad came running with one word that changed everything: “Gorillas!”
We sprinted to the baï and there they were – a family of eleven, including a silverback, females and babies, feeding calmly across the clearing. They stayed for two and a half hours. Two and a half hours of quiet awe, shutters clicking, breath held, hearts thumping. The silverback barely cared we existed. That is the magic of Odzala when it opens the door.
Mother and baby gorilla foraging in the baï
Life at camp settled into its own gentle rhythm. Morning coffee under towering trees, mud-caked boots lined up to dry, stories traded over long dinners while the forest pressed close. We compared bites and bruises like badges, laughed at the day’s near-misses, and replayed sightings until they felt half-mythical. By the end, we weren’t just fellow travellers – we were a small, forest-shaped community, bound by sweat, wonder, and shared disbelief at where we were.
Other specials spotted by our group included incredible forest elephants in the baïs, dwarf crocodiles on the river, greater spot-nosed monkeys and forest buffaloes.
The magic of a forest elephant emerging from the forest
Why Odzala-Kokoua stays with you
Odzala is not a glossy safari. It is humid, raw, thrilling, sometimes uncomfortable, and occasionally absurd. It’s also one of the most important wildernesses left in Africa’s equatorial belt – a living green world where every baï feels like a private audience with evolution.
Would I do the journey again? Absolutely. Odzala asks something of you, as real Africa often does – patience, flexibility, a sense of humour, and a willingness to meet the wild on its own terms. But the reward is the forest itself: the baïs, the river, the primates, the feeling of being a beginner again in a world that doesn’t cater to you.
Baby gorilla swinging through the trees
Because long after the tsetse bites fade and the damp gear dries, you remember the moment that gorilla family stepped into the clearing – and how the whole forest seemed to go quiet, just to let you look.
This journey was made possible by the partners who believe in adventurous storytelling and meaningful conservation. With the support of Ukuri, African Parks and the Africa Geographic community, the Photographer of the Year prize became something far more than a safari – it became access to a place few ever reach, and an experience rooted in protection, patience and respect for wild spaces. Their commitment ensures that Odzala-Kokoua remains not just a destination, but a living, breathing forest with a future.
A sojourn in Odzala-Kokoua NP brings Simon Espley face to face with a paradise of forest elephants, western lowland gorillas & forest baïs. Read about Simon’s Odzala journey here
Camp Imbalanga:
Camp Imbalanga is a fully catered tented lodge featuring six ensuite canvas chalets for 12 guests. Nestled under the shady canopy of enormous trees, the ensuite guest chalets – discreetly positioned for privacy – are a short walk along forest paths from the central area. Each is on a raised wooden deck and shelters under a palm frond roof. The central area, also on a raised wooden deck, features an airy dining room, lounge, kitchen area, small shop and firepit. The unfenced forest camp is three minutes along a walkway from Imbalanga Baï, one of many baïs in Odzala-Kokoua National Park, where guests can view secretive wildlife species such as western lowland gorillas and forest elephants. There are no rim-flow pools, air conditioning, or Wi-Fi. Camp Imbalanga is for those seeking a truly immersive experience powered by local people.
WATCH – about Camp Imbalanga:
AboutStefan Winterboer
Stefan Winterboer has spent 25 years in the safari industry, most of it guiding and managing bush logistics at the wild end of the map. Now he’s swapped (most of) his khakis for a new role: helping travellers plan unforgettable African adventures as a safari expert at Africa Geographic.
A natural storyteller with a knack for uncovering hidden gems, Stefan believes every safari should be as unique as the person taking it – whether that means tracking big cats across the Kalahari sands or glamping beneath a giant baobab. He’s happiest in the charged silence before sunrise, when the bush stirs and anything feels possible, and if he could live anywhere it would be a treehouse on a tropical island just off Africa – because life’s too short to stay grounded.
The Great Rift Valley is one of Africa’s most powerful geological forces and most layered human landscapes. For photographer and naturalist Shem Compion, it is also the thread that connects decades of travel, work and personal history. His new book, The Rift: Scar of Africa, stems from more than twenty years spent documenting the landscapes, wildlife and cultures shaped by this immense system. Compion distils these years into more than 280 images from across the valley.
The book traces the Great Rift Valley’s 6,400km course through 11 African countries and explores how this trench has shaped landscapes, wildlife and human history. His images range from intimate portraits to sweeping aerials in both colour and black-and-white, capturing cultures, mountains, lakes, lava fields and iconic wildlife.
Compion first travelled through the Great Rift Valley as a wildlife naturalist. Time spent in the Simien and Bale mountains of Ethiopia, the Virungas with gorillas and chimps, and the Serengeti-Mara and South Luangwa ecosystems sharpened his awareness of the Great Rift Valley as a unifying force. “There are so many various cultures living alongside wildlife areas in the Rift Valley – quite unique on the planet,” he says. This interconnectedness underpins the narrative, tying “science and spirit, biodiversity and belonging, legacy and urgency.”
He writes that “25 million years is but a brief moment to change the world”, yet the tectonic forces that created the Great Rift Valley have done exactly that, giving rise to vast mammal abundance and the cradle in which our species evolved. Essays from more than 20 anthropologists, scientists, conservationists, poets and leaders frame the region as both a place of origin and a landscape under pressure.
A personal moment that became a continental story
A turning point came in 2008 at Lake Nakuru. Looking out over flamingos, wildlife and a city perched above the escarpment, Compion saw geology, nature and people align. “Seeing how all these elements were so closely linked was very powerful,” he recalls. His family lived nearby for generations, adding personal weight to a scene familiar to millions who move through the Rift daily.
Years later, on the banks of the Zambezi, he conceived the book while reflecting on how tectonics had diverted parts of the Rift. The result spans 11 countries and more than 280 images, supported by voices from across the continent.
Images shaped by time, trust and technique
The book invites readers into the worlds of the Suri, Hamar, Mursi, Turkana, Samburu, Maasai and Hadzabe.
Compion says portraits grew from unhurried time in the field. “Putting down your camera and spending time to engage, relax, observe and build trust makes that human connection,” he says. Long-term relationships opened doors to intimate, relaxed images.
The book also takes readers through protected areas like Volcanoes National Park, Amboseli National Park, Gorongosa National Park, Ngorongoro Crater and Virunga National Park, showing how the Rift Valley’s volcanoes, valleys and lakes support remarkable biodiversity.
Across wildlife, aerial scenes and geological studies, he uses abstraction to link subjects. “I could reveal the common beauty between a zebra’s tail and body painting, or Kara hair detail and a salt pan.” Black-and-white simplifies detail and strengthens mood, while colour carries richness where needed.
Of volcanoes and pressure
One of the book’s most meaningful images was made atop Ol Doinyo Lengai, the Maasai “Mountain of God”. Below the crater, the Rift drops toward Lake Natron and the plains beyond. The ash from Lengai and other volcanoes has fertilised the Serengeti for millions of years. “Being on top of a volcano… and seeing how the whole story of the Rift played out in one image for me is an incredible backstory.”
After two decades in the field, Compion sees the Rift as a single, interdependent system: rising lake levels, shifting fisheries, geothermal energy and wildlife movements are all linked. “Maintaining a balance is so important… Nothing operates in isolation.”
He sees human–wildlife conflict as the most urgent challenge, but points to hopeful examples in Gorongosa and South Luangwa where people and conservation are interlinked.
Compion hopes readers feel the Rift’s connective force. “Some people may equate Africa to lions, or poverty, or Mt Kilimanjaro. When they open up The Rift, I want them to know that this scar of Africa connects all of the great elements of Africa. It is the binding fabric of biodiversity, culture, geology and the origin of mankind.”
Maasai living in the shadow of the active Ol Doinyo Lengai volcano consider it the “Mountain of God” due to its frequent changes in shape and colour from eruptions.In 2008 at Lake Nakuru, 60,000 flamingos turn the shoreline into pink paradise. A hyena sparks a sudden panic-flight; one remote click caught the single perfect frameA salt caravan treks along an eight-day ancient trading route to collect salt carved from a dry seabed. The Afar region of Ethiopia is considered one of the harshest places to live on planet EarthThe vertical rise of the Simien Mountains in Ethiopia has led to incredibly high bird and mammal endemism. Gelada monkeys, Ethiopian wolf and Walia ibex are all endemic to Ethiopia and found across the Simien MountainsLeopards are common in the Okavango Delta, Botswana, especially in woodlands adjacent to floodplains, and they can be seen often. The delta forms a part of the Rift Valley SystemBody-painting is a way of expressing identity, as much as it is an ethnography of the Suri culture and traditions. Great care is taken when applying the clay to ensure the correct identity is maintainedThe Erta Ale volcano in northern Ethiopia is the mid-splitting point between the Arabian, Somalian and African tectonic plates, marking the start of the Rift in AfricaPangolins are highly sought after by poachers across Africa. Gorongosa’s Pangolin Project receives poached pangolins from the reserve and surrounding areas brought in by rangers. These animals are often malnourished and dehydrated. The project nurtures them back to health, monitors them and eventually releases them back into the wild. The success of the project relies on strong community engagement for reporting of poachers. Over 100 pangolins have been released into the wild since 2018Flamingos take flight over Lake Logipi in KenyaLarge albida trees (winterthorn/apple-ring acacias) provide forage for elephants along the Zambezi River in Mana Pools, ZimbabweSamburu detail. Beadwork is used across the valley for various purposes. It is more than a function. The design is artOn the eastern arc of the Rift Valley, mountain gorillas are confined to the Virunga volcano complex that extends over the borders of DRC, Uganda and RwandaTimkat celebrations of Epiphany in Lalibela, EthiopiaElephants march across the dry Lake Amboseli in Kenya. The water they seek is glacier meltwater from Kilimanjaro, which springs up on the mountain’s lower slopesThe incredible Rendille of northern Kenya. Where no one could survive, the Rendille have set up a life and thrived, and do it while dressing and looking amazingTwo ivoried giants on the Great Rift Valley’s Maasai Mara grassland savannah
About Shem Compion
Shem Compion was born in Cape Town, South Africa. He has been a photographer since 2000. He has spent much of his life exploring Africa, previously living for seven months in a Land Rover, climbing volcanoes, and building specialist wildlife photography hides. He is the co-founder and Managing Director of C4 Photo Safaris, the co-founder of Photo Mashatu, and the co-founder of Nurture Africa Safaris. His images have won awards in some of the most prestigious photography competitions around the world. In 2021, he co-produced the acclaimed documentary Zero To Zero, covering the Covid pandemic in South Africa. His naturalist skills and creative photographic approach have also seen him work with the BBC’s Natural History Unit on the landmark series Planet Earth, as well as two series of Netflix’s Tales By Light. He published his first book A Landscape of Insects in 2009 and has since published six other titles, including If Trees Could Talk and a three-part series Insider’s Guide: Top Wildlife Photography Spots, exploring the most remote destinations in southern Africa. He is a popular speaker at international photography and nature events. He is also a fellow of the Royal Geographic Society, London. He is currently based in Pretoria, South Africa. Read more about Shem here: www.shemimages.com
About The Rift: Scar of Africa
Born of volcanic forces, the Rift gave rise to immense geological textures and extraordinary ecological diversity. It reaches from deep pasts into unfolding, still undefined futures, touching every part of our planet.
For Shem Compion, the camera is the passport. With a naturalist grounding, the curiosity of a scientist and the artistry of a lens, he has explored Africa’s Great Rift Valley since 2002. In this, his eighth publication, Shem brings together decades of pan-African travels to focus his lens on its cultures, wildlife, environments, landscapes and the origins of humanity itself. With many never-before-seen images, The Rift is an opus that seeks to inspire a more creative and conscious engagement with the world we share—and the future we shape together. By turning his lens on both the immensity and the detail of this phenomenon, he brings us face-to-face with the paradox of the Rift: a place torn apart that also serves as a binding fabric. He invites us all to look anew – and with wonder – at something that is simultaneously a geological marvel, the cradle of humankind, a cultural axis, and a natural laboratory. With arresting imagery and diverse voices, this opus invites both celebration and reflection. The Rift is a living metaphor – intertwining humanity and nature in an epic discourse. Buy the book here: www.therift.africa
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From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Researchers in South Africa have uncovered something remarkable: animal tracks preserved in rock that date back about 3 million years. These are the first recorded Pliocene vertebrate tracks described from southern Africa. The prints come from the Wankoe Formation in the Western Cape, a band of ancient inland dunes, now cemented, that has rarely revealed any fossils. But careful searching changed that. The team has now found raised trackways from a variety of animals. The discoveries hint at a far richer fossil story in this region, with the chance to link these traces to well-known body fossils from sites like Langebaanweg. The work also raises a tantalising possibility. With more exploration, researchers may one day find early hominin tracks here too – a new “holy grail” for the research team…
This week, we bring you a handy guide to South Africa’s best malaria-free safari destinations, and take a look at the AI photo-ID tech helping giraffe numbers rebound. Read on for some lekker insights.
Yours in wild adventure,
Taryn van Jaarsveld – Africa Geographic Editor
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
MALARIA-FREE SAFARIS
Want to head on safari while avoiding the risk of malaria? Here’s our round-up of the best malaria-free safari destinations in South Africa
AI + GIRAFFES
AI photo ID is turning giraffe snapshots into real-time population data – sharpening surveys and strengthening conservation
This safari is all about cheetahs. Experience luxury in malaria-free Big 5 reserves in South Africa’s Eastern Cape and Great Karoo while tracking cheetahs and discovering inspiring rewilding success stories. Enjoy family-friendly activities, authentic farmhouse-style lodges, and meaningful travel with purpose.
Discover two of South Africa’s most spectacular malaria-free reserves on a classic Big Five safari. Start in Marataba within Marakele National Park with guided game drives, bush walks and riverside relaxation. Then, continue on to community-owned Madikwe Game Reserve, known for its thriving wildlife, expert guiding, seamless transfers and luxurious, family-friendly lodges. This safari is ideal for families and first-time safari goers.
AG safari guests Robbert from the Netherlands and Susan from the USA went on a specialist photographic safari to the Maasai Mara:
“Excellent tour operator. The communication with Christian during booking was excellent. Everything I wanted to do was discussed and added to the itinerary. At the destination, everything was taken care of, so I could enjoy my holiday.” – Robbert, Netherlands
“Excellence of Oltepesi, Maasai Mara. I have been on 3 African safaris this year. This one through Africa Geographic at Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp, Maasai Mara, was BY FAR the best. I was attracted to this safari, knowing of the work of award-winning photographer Arnfinn Johansen, and that it is specific to serious photographers. I was told to prepare to be on the road for 13 hours a day, often waiting long periods of time to achieve just the right shot. And, indeed, it was exactly that! Knowing the terrain like the back of his hand, our driver John… found a leopard in the tree that awakened and began a hunt. He also found a lioness bringing a kill to her playful cubs, as well as several other hunts. We experienced the joyful reunion of two sister lionesses and cubs. Throughout, Arnfinn was readily available to share his valuable expertise. He has set the tone for the lodge, and his respect for the Maasai people is obvious. The staff is treated as family and those at the lodge are considered guests in their home. Importantly, the camp engages in philanthropic support of the local Maasai village. This African expedition has my unqualified, strongest possible recommendation.” – Susan, USA
Meet Rahima Njaidi, winner of the 2025 Tusk Award for Conservation in Africa. Her community-led approach to forest protection, land rights and gender equality is reshaping the future of Tanzania’s forests. (04:51) Click here to watch
Travelling to most African countries carries some risk of malaria infection – something that should always be taken into consideration when visiting. Though a few simple precautions can mitigate the risk of contracting malaria, there are those who, for various reasons, prefer not to take the chance at all. Fortunately, South Africa offers a plethora of malaria-free destinations – without sacrificing the luxury safari experience. Plus, many of these destinations offer sightings of the Big 5 – Africa’s must-see checklist including elephant, lion, leopard, buffalo, and rhino. Have a look at our list of favourite malaria-free safari destinations:
Madikwe Game Reserve
Madikwe Game Reserve lies just south of South Africa’s border with Botswana, only 40km from Gaborone, and extends across 75,000 hectares, including recently incorporated private land, making it the fifth-largest game reserve in South Africa. Nestled on the fringes of the Kalahari, the magnificent Madikwe Game Reserve is one of South Africa’s top safari destinations – malaria-free or otherwise. The exclusive Big-5 reserve teems with iconic and unusual wildlife, offering the opportunity for spectacular animal encounters and striking photography. As Madikwe is not open to day visitors, safari experiences are very personal – whether from the back of a vehicle or the back of a horse.
There is a range of camps and lodges to choose from, from high-end luxury to family or budget-friendly options, and, importantly, community-owned and run lodges that see profits going directly to community members.
Elephants gather around the waterhole at sunset
The malaria-free aspect of the reserve makes it an ideal attraction for families travelling with young children. It is also easily accessible from Johannesburg. Madikwe’s game viewing is at its best during the winter months – the dry season – as the animal life congregates near available water (often at lodges).
From decadent safaris to down-to-earth, family-oriented comfort, the Madikwe experience is a classic, guaranteed to enthral.
Madikwe offers big-cat viewing on the fringes of the Kalahari
Marakele National Park and Marataba
In the heart of the Waterberg, Marakele National Park offers a malaria-free bush escape defined by big skies, sculpted mountains and a satisfyingly different feel from the savannah stereotypes. Sitting in a transitional ecological zone between South Africa’s drier west and moister east, 67,000-hectare Marakele supports a remarkable mix of habitats and biodiversity – including pockets of fynbos in the higher, mountainous areas. The park is home to the Big 5 and is famous for its dramatic scenery: rugged peaks, winding passes and the unforgettable sight of Cape vultures riding thermals above the cliffs.
Marakele National Park in the heart of the Waterberg Mountains hosts the Big-5, far from the crowds
Within the borders of Marakele lies another precious gem – a 23,000-hectare private concession Marataba. Marataba adds an extra layer of safari polish and exclusivity, pairing the area’s wild beauty with a more intimate lodge-and-guide style of game viewing. Marakele National Park and Marataba make compelling malaria-free options: landscape-rich destinations where mountain vistas, varied vegetation, and excellent Big-5 potential come with fewer crowds and a pleasantly moderate climate (with summer rainfall taking the edge off the heat).
Marataba offers a classic luxury Big 5 safari in the Waterberg
Pilanesberg National Park
Situated at the centre of an ancient caldera of a long-extinct volcano, the Pilanesberg National Park is visually striking and bursting with life around every corner. The reserve is 57,250 hectares in size and is found in the transition zone between the Kalahari and Lowveld, making it an ecologically rich area offering thrilling wildlife viewing in picturesque surrounds.
A young male surveys his promised kingdom at the foot of the Pilanesberg mountain range
The park offers a wide variety of accommodation options, from camping and budget accommodation to luxury lodges. At 55,000 hectares in size, there is ample terrain to be explored and a diverse road network (of more than 200km) which can be explored.
A diverse range of animal species native to southern Africa can be found here, including the Big 5 and more than 360 species of birds. The reserve is just two hours drive from Johannesburg and is perfect for intrepid explorers wanting a self-drive experience.
Pilanesberg offers the best of many worlds – luxury and budget accommodation, guided game drives or self-drive options, and a high concentration of wildlife
Addo Elephant National Park
As the name suggests, Addo Elephant National Park is an elephant lover’s nirvana. As part of the national park falls along the coast, it is also the only place in Africa where visitors can encounter the ‘Big 7’, which includes the typical Big 5 assortment plus dolphins and whales.
Addo covers five of the country’s eight vegetation zones, so the biodiversity on display in this 180,000-hectare park is staggering, accompanied by sweeping vistas and accommodation options to suit most budgets.
An elephant bull in Addo Elephant National Park
Samara Karoo Reserve
In the heart-stoppingly beautiful Great Karoo, Samara Karoo Reserve is a malaria-free rewilding success story on 27,000 hectares of “born-again” wilderness. This semi-arid landscape is anything but simple: Samara protects a uniquely biodiverse meeting place of five of South Africa’s major vegetation types – savanna, Nama Karoo, Albany thicket, forest and grasslands – creating a wonderfully textured safari setting of wide horizons, ancient mountains and crisp, star-filled nights. It’s also an easy add-on to a Cape Town or Garden Route trip, offering a true sense of space and solitude.
Wildlife is refreshingly varied, with over 60 mammal species recorded, including the Big Five, cheetah and charismatic Karoo specials like aardvark and the elusive black-footed cat, as well as giraffe and herds of desert-adapted antelope such as springbok and oryx. Activities lean into the reserve’s wilderness character: game drives and bush walks, the thrill of tracking cheetahs on foot, hikes to ancient rock art, and the unforgettable novelty of sleeping under a “gazillion stars” in Samara’s famous star bed.
The other-worldly vistas of Samara Karoo Reserve
Kwandwe Private Game Reserve
Set in the topographically dramatic, biodiversity-rich landscapes of the Eastern Cape, Kwandwe Private Game Reserve is a conservation success story – a restored wilderness rehabilitated from former farmland. Straddling the Great Fish River and spanning some 30,000 hectares, Kwandwe delivers a wonderfully varied safari canvas, from riverine thickets to open plains, with the kind of scenery that keeps photographers busy even between sightings. As a malaria-free, Big-5 reserve, it’s an easy win for families and first-time safari-goers who want the full classic experience without the worry.
Wildlife viewing here is impressively diverse: alongside black and white rhino, elephant, lion, buffalo and leopard, guests may encounter cheetah, brown hyena and hippo, plus an array of plains game including kudu, springbok, eland, red hartebeest, giraffe, black wildebeest and gemsbok. Kwandwe also shines after dark, with regular sightings of nocturnal species such as aardwolf, aardvark, caracal, bat-eared fox and porcupine. Add in walking safaris and hands-on conservation experiences, and you’ve got a malaria-free destination that feels both luxurious and meaningfully wild.
A lazy leopard morning in KwandweSunset over Kwandwe Private Game Reserve
More private reserves of the Cape
The Eastern and Southern Cape are peppered with private game reserves – many offering Big-5 viewing – where the safari experience is typically more exclusive, flexible and intimate than in a national park. These landscapes are a Cape-style mosaic: mountains and deep valleys rolling into thicket and savannah, with the ocean never feeling far away. It’s a region where you can spend the morning tracking lion and rhino, then be sipping something chilled with coastal air in your lungs by late afternoon.
Spotting a big male in Amakhala
Reserves such as Shamwari Private Game Reserve, Amakhala Game Reserve, Kariega Game Reserve and Gondwana Private Game Reserve showcase the best of malaria-free Cape safaris, often pairing excellent guiding with a strong conservation ethos. And because you’re in the Cape, the “after safari” options are unusually tempting – from the winelands and wild beaches to Cape Town’s headline acts like Table Mountain and the penguins at Boulders Beach.
Cape reserves such as Gondwana offer incredible safari experiences
Tswalu Kalahari Reserve
Words fail to do justice to the sense of inner peace that descends when looking out across the vast vistas of the green Kalahari. Beneath the everyday sounds of chirruping geckos and melodious bird songs, the depth of the silence is a balm for the world-weary soul. Though no elephants are wandering Tswalu Kalahari Reserve, other members of the Big 5, wild dog (painted wolf) and cheetah are all present. However, the reserve is most famous for its assortment of rare and unusual wildlife offerings like black-maned lions, roan and sable antelope, aardvark, pangolin, brown hyena and aardwolf.
What truly sets Tswalu apart is its rare blend of scale, solitude and unapologetic ultra-luxury. With exclusive access to 120,000 hectares of privately protected Kalahari wilderness – and only three camps on the entire reserve – it offers one of the lowest bed-to-hectare ratios in South Africa, so the landscape feels vast, wild and wonderfully empty. Every booking includes a private vehicle, guide and tracker, giving you the freedom to linger at sightings, follow fresh spoor into the dunes, and shape each day around curiosity rather than a timetable. Beyond game drives, you can sit just metres from habituated meerkat colonies, explore ancient San rock art on foot, ride out on horseback, or spend time with resident researchers via the Tswalu Foundation.
Tswalu, the gem of the Kalahari, is known for rare and unusual wildlife offerings, such as aardvark
Final thoughts on malaria-free safaris
Whether you’re travelling with young children, prefer to avoid prophylactics, or simply want peace of mind on safari, South Africa’s malaria-free destinations prove you don’t have to trade comfort for adventure. From volcanic valleys and Kalahari dunes to Waterberg mountains, Karoo big-sky wilderness and coastal thicket, each region brings its own flavour of wild – and many still deliver those bucket-list Big Five moments. Add excellent guiding, conservation with real impact, and accommodation that ranges from value-friendly to ultra-luxurious, and you’ve got a safari menu that suits almost every traveller. All that’s left is choosing your landscape, your pace, and the kind of magic you want to come home with.
A note on “malaria-free”: the above list includes South African destinations only, as much of the country is officially considered malaria-free. While there are several regions within Southern Africa where the risk of transmission during the dry season is negligible, they are still considered by the World Health Organisation to be malaria-risk areas.
A big male lion in Marataba
Further reading
Cape Town – South Africa’s Mother City – offers a blend of a nature-lover’s playground, modern city lifestyle, cultural diversity and foodie heaven. Read more about Cape Town here
Marakele in South Africa’s Waterberg is a Big-5, malaria-free biodiversity extravaganza, & home to one of the world’s largest Cape vulture colonies. Read more about Marakele here
From relaxed elephants to hard-working dung beetles, Addo Elephant National Park is a conservation marvel packed with wildlife, adventure, and history. Learn all there is to know about Addo here
AI photo identification system – GiraffeSpotter – is turning giraffe images into verified population records.
More than 30,000 individuals from 195,000 sightings now map giraffes across 18 countries.
The new Giraffe Africa Database centralises data, improving comparability and reducing outdated estimates.
All four giraffe species are stable or increasing, but trends vary regionally.
Despite the good new, threats persist: habitat loss, poaching, insecurity, and under-surveyed areas still limit decisions.
Giraffes are no longer defined only by decline. Across Africa, all four recognised giraffe species are stable or increasing – a turnaround driven not by wishful thinking, but by sharper counting, wider coverage, and a far more disciplined approach to turning sightings into usable population data. And so it appears the future of giraffe conservation is digital.
The most consequential change is not a single new protected area or a once-off survey. It’s a monitoring system that turns photographs into structured, verified population intelligence, fast enough to matter, and rigorous enough to trust.
From snapshots to certainty
At the heart of this change is AI-powered photo-identification: GiraffeSpotter, an online photo-identification database managed by the Giraffe Conservation Foundation (GCF), is converting ordinary images into verified records of individual giraffes at scale. This gives conservationists faster access to better information, and a clearer basis for decisions that determine where giraffes will persist, and where they will not. GiraffeSpotter is one of several Wildbooks, open-source software platforms created by the Wild Me Lab of Conservation X Labs. These blend structured wildlife research with artificial intelligence, citizen science, and computer vision to speed population analysis and develop new insights in conservation based on traditional mark recapture survey methods.
As with most species, the core problem for giraffe conservation was simple: if you cannot reliably count a wide-ranging species across vast, mixed-ownership landscapes, you cannot confidently say whether protection is working, where numbers are collapsing, or where to intervene next.
Every single giraffe can be identified by their individual spot pattern – just like a human fingerprint. That means conservationists aren’t just collecting “giraffe sightings”. They’re building a living ledger of which individuals were seen, where, when, and how often – the kind of detail that turns management from guesswork into strategy.
The giraffe conservation story is shifting from decline to measured progress
How AI monitoring is driving giraffe conservation
AI monitoring, in this context, means using computer vision to identify individual giraffes from images, then using those verified identifications to build a live record of where individuals occur, how often they are seen, and what that implies for populations over time.
The database in GiraffeSpotter allows for the cataloguing and tracking of individual giraffes in the wild. Conservationists, researchers, and managers populate and maintain the database by collecting and analysing giraffe sighting data to understand population numbers and distribution.
The bigger picture is accountability. Traditional survey methods remain essential, but a photo-identification system offers another route: more frequent inputs and transparent records.
The database has identified more than 30,000 individual giraffes from over 195,000 sightings in 18 African countries, including populations of all four giraffe species. This makes it “the largest giraffe monitoring programme in history”.
The system allows governments, NGOs, academics, and local communities to track population trends and demographics in near real time, and use the information to design wildlife corridors, and even plan translocations with far greater confidence than ever before. A single system improves comparability, reduces the risk of double-counting, and prevents outdated estimates from being recycled unchallenged.
Importantly, GiraffeSpotter ensures that all data collected directly informs conservation strategies across Africa. By taking on the responsibility of verifying all data and ensuring high scientific standards, GCF guarantees that the information collected is not only scientifically rigorous but also applied immediately to inform conservation priorities.
AI technology is able to identify individuals in photographs from their spot patterns. Photo: Giraffe Conservation Foundation
The data backbone: the Giraffe Africa Database
GiraffeSpotter sits within a broader push to centralise and standardise giraffe status information. A key development is the launch of GCF’s Giraffe Africa Database, a single repository for storing and dynamically collating population data for all four giraffe species across the continent.
Giraffe data is often fragmented across government counts, NGO surveys, academic studies, private reserve monitoring, and local reporting. But this single system improves comparability and reduces the risk of double-counting or outdated estimates being carried forward unchallenged.
What the giraffe numbers currently show
With improved monitoring and more frequent giraffe-specific survey efforts, current estimates for wild giraffe populations are: Masai giraffe (43,926), Northern giraffe (7,037), Reticulated giraffe (20,901), and Southern giraffe (68,837).
The findings feed directly into GCF’s comprehensive State of Giraffe 2025 report, which for the first time reports stable or upward trends for all four giraffe species.
A crucial background point is what “stable” means in this analysis: when comparing changes from previous estimates, a population is considered stable if the estimate changed by ≤10%.
From mixed landscapes to protected areas, camera sightings help map where giraffes persist, where they’re thinning out, and where action is urgent
Why better monitoring changes the story
Improved monitoring can reveal real recovery, but it can also reveal that older methods were missing animals. As affirmed in the State of Giraffe 2025 report, aerial surveys “consistently underestimate populations”, and confidence in estimates depends strongly on method and recency.
To manage this, GCF uses an Information Quality Index (IQI) that ranks data reliability “from 1 (highest quality) to 5 (lowest quality)”, and the selection process prioritises data quality, spatial scale, and recency. It also notes that some populations have all individuals known and monitored in platforms such as GiraffeSpotter, linking photo-identification to the highest-confidence end of monitoring.
What the future holds
The initial development and implementation of park, national and regional giraffe conservation strategies and action plans in more than half of giraffe range states has been critical, according to the report. Evidence suggests that countries with these frameworks are seeing better conservation outcomes. GCF and its partners continue to support range states in developing and implementing these strategies and plans.
But the constraints remain serious and uneven. Ongoing threats such as habitat loss and fragmentation, poaching, climate change, and insufficient data remain challenges. Prioritising support for under-surveyed regions will be essential to sustain conservation gains. For example, limited systematic surveys were conducted on Masai giraffe in the past five years, resulting in a significant data gap in Tanzania. Reticulated giraffe numbers are increasing in Kenya, but there is little reliable data from neighbouring Ethiopia and Somalia because regional insecurity limits monitoring. Where monitoring cannot be done, conservation decisions become less precise and less defensible.
Every giraffe in this group can become a data point – AI photo-ID turns sightings into verified individuals, sharpening population trends in near real time.
The bottom line
AI-assisted photo-identification is not a replacement for field conservation. It is a force multiplier for knowing what is happening, where, and how quickly. The intended chain from technology to action is captured in one line: “GiraffeSpotter is transforming snapshots into datasets, and datasets into conservation decisions.”
The future for giraffes depends on whether improved monitoring continues to expand into under-surveyed areas, whether shared databases remain current and comparable, and whether the threats that persist on the ground are met with plans that are resourced, enforced, and adapted as the data improves.
Why do giraffes have such long legs? Giraffes’ long legs ease heart strain from high blood pressure, revealing an energy-saving secret behind their towering height. Read more here
IUCN confirms four giraffe species, reshaping conservation across Africa and unlocking urgent, species-specific protection strategies. Read more here
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From our CEO – Simon Espley
NOW IS THE TIME: Shape up or ship out
Now that the CITES CoP20 in Samarkand, Uzbekistan, has slammed the door on Southern Africa’s doomed strategy to monetise ivory and rhino horn, it’s surely time for the sustainable wildlife industries to take a good, hard look at themselves.
The world no longer accepts the blunt ‘use it or lose it’ mantra, the fake claims of scientific methods and community benefits and the bullying of those of us who challenge their claims with probing questions. Decision-makers have made it clear that the primary focus on money does not cut it in wildlife conservation. That glossing over illegal and immoral practices has to stop if this once-proud industry is to rise from its self-imposed exile. They see through the thin veneer to the systemic flaws and credibility failures of a conservation model that is failing us all.
Where are the principled leaders who will step up in an industry so critical to protecting our biodiversity? Who will exorcise the morally bankrupt operators in their midst? Who will win back those, like me, who truly believe in sustainable wildlife use when conducted legally, ethically, and with science as the cornerstone? Will the respected farmers and landowners take their industry by the throat and turn it around, or is the rot so deep that the industry will never meet its potential? Time will tell. This Daily Maverick article makes for an excellent read on the matter.
On the same tack, thanks to all who provided feedback on my previous editorial and on our recent article about the Botswana elephant-hunting industry. One respected doyen of the tourism industry dropped me this message:
“We never had enough big old gentleman elephant bulls to satisfy this quota. And the impact of the over-extraction is now evident when one travels around Botswana. Sure, there are the occasional older bulls that have survived by keeping away from the hunting areas, and there are plenty of 30-something bulls around, but we are missing those grand old gents who are no longer around at scale to guide and mentor the greater herd.“ Enough said.
Leopards of the Western Cape are famously difficult to study. But new camera-trap findings from the Cape Leopard Trust show these predators are holding their ground in the Boland mountains. Over five months, camera trap images confirmed at least 38 individual leopards in the Boland, including breeding females.
Leopard detections at 72% of the 90 paired camera stations point to a stable, wide-ranging population in a landscape where the species has long persisted under pressure. The data will now be used to calculate density and compare trends with the region’s earlier surveys. So far, the positive trend shows that landowner co-operation and addressing illegal activity that threatens biodiversity in the Boland are paying off. And while researchers crunch the data, the leopards keep charting their own maps across the mountains, leaving a few glimpses in their path.
This week, we also unpack the latest data on Africa’s forest elephants – the most accurate representation of actual populations yet. We also revisit the enduring allure of South Luangwa and Nsefu with a comprehensive guide to visiting this incredible safari destination that has inspired the BBC’s Kingdom series.
Yours in wild adventure,
Did you know? Your African safari choice makes a difference
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
Our stories this week
SOUTH LUANGWA
Your guide to South Luangwa and Nsefu, Zambia: walking safaris, game drives, predators, top camps, and Luangwa River magicbulls
FOREST ELEPHANTS
Clearer numbers, urgent threats: what the latest data reveal about Africa’s forest elephants, and their Critically Endangered status
The Big 5, leopards galore and iconic landscapes: this safari focuses on two of Africa’s premier leopard locations, renowned for their relaxed spotted cats. From iconic elephants to giant baobab trees on wide, sandy riverbeds and cable-car river crossings to epic scenic flights, this safari has it all for those who seek an exclusive journey of discovery and adventure.
Discover the untamed beauty of South Luangwa National Park, Zambia – a renowned leopard stronghold and the birthplace of walking safaris. Embark on expertly guided bush walks and game drives, spend a night under the stars in a secluded sleepout, and refine your photographic skills in one of Africa’s finest hides. An authentic safari experience that reconnects you with the wild at its most raw and real.
Thank you for making a difference.
Your safari booking has directly supported the Ingwe Research Program’s Road Ecology Project – with a US$13,620 donation. Ingwe identifies leopard roadkill hotspots and safe wildlife crossings to protect vulnerable wildlife.
Your contribution will help fund the project’s final data-collection phase, scheduled for January–April 2026. This crucial field survey will provide the data needed to implement long-term mitigation measures and reduce wildlife-vehicle collisions. Support from Africa Geographic guests has arrived at the perfect moment, giving the project the stability it needs to move into its next phase.
You can make an even greater impact by joining and donating via our Spots on the Line campaign, which funds fieldwork, camera traps, and data analysis that save leopards.
When you travel with us, you’re not just exploring Africa’s wild places – you’re helping protect them. Check out some of our safari ideas here.
WATCH – AFRICAN SAFARI INSPIRATION:
A wild dog hunt, a pregnant hyena caught in the chaos, and a lion waiting to steal the moment. South Luangwa’s Nsefu delivers raw, gripping drama in the BBC’s Kingdom. (03:06) Click here to watch
South Luangwa is Zambia’s classic safari destination, shaped by a dynamic river system. It delivers intimate camps, strong guiding, and consistently rewarding wildlife viewing.
Nsefu is South Luangwa’s quieter, more remote sector, built for immersion. Predator viewing is exceptional here, and leopard encounters feel impressively reliable throughout.
The Luangwa River shapes floodplains and lagoons, concentrating wildlife through dry months. Plan June–October for classic viewing; green season is lush, quieter, and bird-rich too.
Game drives are central here, led by expert guides reading tracks and signs of the bush daily. Combine game drives with walking safaris, hides, and night drives where permitted.
Choose stays from easy Mfuwe comfort to ultra-immersive Nsefu camps across styles. Highlights include Puku Ridge views, Tafika adventure, Mwamba’s hide, and remote Olimba too.
For years, South Luangwa belonged to the safari insiders: a remote Zambian valley spoken about in lowered voices, prized for its raw wilderness and exceptional sightings. Now the secret is out. Travellers are arriving for a safari that feels close and unfiltered – a predator-rich landscape where leopard viewing is famously reliable, and where days are shaped by the Luangwa River’s floodplains, thickets and shifting channels. But where does one start when heading to this piece of African paradise? One of South Luangwa’s most wild and compelling areas is Nsefu. Nsefu is a destination built around classic, high-quality safari experiences, with a particularly strong reputation for epic game drives and walking safaris, excellent predator viewing, and small, seasonal camps that keep the focus on wilderness rather than crowds.
Here are all the practical tips you need for visiting South Luangwa. We’ve put this guide together to help you plan your journey, choose the right style of camp, and make the most of your time in South Luangwa – with a special focus on the Nsefu sector, one of the park’s most compelling corners.
At a glance
South Luangwa National Park lies in Zambia’s Luangwa Valley. There are two main areas of South Luangwa accessible to visitors: the Mfuwe and Nsefu sectors. The Nsefu sector is a standout safari area within the greater park.
In fact, the predators of Nsefu have recently risen to prominence, as the star characters in the BBC series, Kingdom – with its now famous lion pride, wild dog pack, hyena clan and leopard family all competing to make Nsefu their home. Yet, for those in the know, Nsefu has long been the park’s most addictive corner: a quieter, more remote stretch of South Luangwa where the river draws wildlife in. Here, game drives offer with long, clean viewing opportunities along the river edge and floodplain system, with few other vehicles present. Walking safaris are a core activity led by highly trained guides, and the chances of extraordinary sightings are high from the moment you arrive.
Battling it out in the heart of South Luangwa
South Luangwa covers roughly 9,050km², giving visitors a sense of scale that still feels properly wild. Most travellers access the area via Mfuwe Airport, with flights from Lusaka and other centres, making logistics more straightforward than many people expect.
For the best all-round game viewing, plan for the dry season (June to October) – with September and October often the hottest months and frequently the most intense for sightings. The green season (mid-November to April) brings flooding and a shift in emphasis: fewer vehicles, lusher scenery, and conditions that can favour slower safari days and a stronger birding focus, with many camps closing depending on location and access.
A classic South Luangwa photo – elephants stretching to indulge in the sweetest of foliage
What makes South Luangwa unique
Game drives: In South Luangwa, game drives are the core of most safaris. Early starts, late afternoons, and long stretches spent working productive loops along the river, lagoons and floodplains. The park’s guiding culture shines in the way drives are approached: unhurried, detail-focused, and built around reading habitat, light and movement rather than racing between sightings.
Walking safaris: Here, walking is not a once-off novelty. It is central to the valley’s safari identity. The park is widely described as the birthplace of the walking safari, and that heritage shows in the way experiences are designed: slower, more interpretive, and focused on tracking. For walking safaris, Nsefu’s quieter feel and excellent guides make it ideal for proper, interpretive walks: reading signs, and understanding the landscape at ground level rather than simply driving through it.
Combine walks with day and night drives, and (at certain camps) also spend time in hides for extended periods to let the bush come to you. This will ensure the most all-encompassing experience of Nsefu and South Luangwa.
Eventful game drives – with few other vehicles to share sightings – are the name of the game in Nsefu
The Luangwa River: Just as defining is the Luangwa River itself. Its seasonal rise and fall shapes everything – carving floodplains, forming oxbow lagoons, and constantly shifting channels and sandbanks. That river-built landscape concentrates wildlife at different times of year, influences movement and behaviour, and keeps each game drive or walk feeling distinct rather than repetitive.
Nsefu sits right on the Luangwa River system. The Nsefu sector is on the eastern side of the Luangwa River, and much of its best habitat and game viewing is tied to the riverbank, riverine woodland, and the floodplain/lagoon network created by the river’s seasonal rise and fall.
Sundowners overlooking the river
Predators: Nsefu adds another layer of appeal: consistently strong predator viewing on game drives, that holds its reputation across the season. This is one of the most reliable places in the region for leopard encounters, and many travellers choose Nsefu specifically because the odds of excellent sightings are so high. And with BBC’s Kingdom bringing the ongoing drama of predator life in this part of South Luangwa to a global audience, new travellers have been inspired to look beyond the usual safari names and experience Nsefu’s wild intensity for themselves.
Epic predator moments seem to be around every corner in South Luangwa
When to go
Dry season (June–October): best for classic safari
This is the most dependable time for a first-time visit, with dry conditions that make game viewing easier and more consistent across the park. Walking safaris are typically excellent in this period, with clear visibility and wildlife spending more time around reliable water sources. September and October can be particularly hot, but they often deliver intensely rewarding sightings as animals concentrate and the safari tempo sharpens.
The dry season is the best time for walking safaris
Green season (mid-November–April): different rewards
The green season changes the feel of South Luangwa completely, with flooded areas, lush scenery and a strong emphasis on birding. It can be a quieter time to travel, and some camps remain open, but conditions are more variable – access in certain areas may be affected by flooding. Itineraries can shift depending on where you stay and what the river is doing.
Buffaloes indulging in lush green-season grasses
What to expect (the practical reality)
A more intimate safari style: Many South Luangwa safaris feel notably intimate because so much of the accommodation is small, seasonal and designed to blend into the bush rather than dominate it. The best camps don’t try to impress with noise or novelty – they let the wilderness do the work.
Nsefu is more remote and quieter than the main Mfuwe side of South Luangwa. Being on the far side of the Luangwa River generally means fewer passing vehicles, fewer day visitors, and less “traffic” at sightings.
A wild dog – collared by researchers to provide data to support wild dog conservation – is spotted in an intimate sighting
A rhythm built around mornings, late afternoons and nights: Days settle into a classic safari rhythm: early starts, a pause through the heat of midday, and a return to the bush in the late afternoon, often stretching into the evening. Game drives and walking safaris form the backbone, and where camps offer hides, you can add unhurried hours simply waiting for the action to come to you.
Spotting a leopard kill while out on a game drive
Low-impact thinking is part of the conversation: Just as importantly, South Luangwa attracts travellers who care about impact. It offers low-footprint operations and responsible choices – from how camps are run to how they connect with nearby communities and contribute to the valley’s long-term health.
In Nsefu, that mindset feels especially tangible: smaller, quieter camps and a more immersive safari style naturally lend themselves to lighter impact, fewer vehicles, and a stronger sense of travelling gently through a wild place.
Red-billed queleas engulf a herd of zebra
Top experiences
Game drives – including night drives where permitted: Game drives form the backbone of South Luangwa’s itineraries, typically focused on early mornings and late afternoons when wildlife activity is highest. Where night drives are offered, they add an extra dimension: the bush feels less predictable, the atmosphere shifts, and the safari experience becomes sharper and more intense. Many lodges in Nsefu offer night drives – excellent for spotting leopards, lions, bush babies, civets, owls and other nocturnal treasures.
Walking safaris – the Luangwa essential: Walking is the signature experience here, and it’s one of the clearest reasons South Luangwa stands apart. On foot with highly trained guides, you move at a slower pace and begin to notice details that vehicle safaris can miss – tracks, clues, plants, and how the ecosystem fits together. It’s immersive, interpretive, and deeply place-based, which is exactly why the Luangwa is so highly regarded for walking.
Most Nsefu-area walking safaris are run as guided bush walks (usually in the cooler parts of the day), typically with small groups and a professional guide, often accompanied by an armed scout as part of standard safety practice in the park. In Nsefu’s camps, walks last around a few hours and cover a few kilometres through a mix of riverine and woodland habitats.
Large swarms of southern carmine bee-eaters are a common sight in South Luangwa
Hides – close-range, unhurried viewing: Hides are a major highlight in Nsefu because they encourage a different kind of safari – one built around patience rather than pursuit. You settle in, keep quiet, and let the wildlife come to you, often with close-range encounters unfolding on their own terms. The hide at Tafika Camp is the perfect example: it’s the sort of place where minutes turn into hours, and you stop chasing sightings altogether.
The hide at Tafika Camp
Culture and community connection (when done well):
A well-considered Luangwa safari can also include community-led cultural experiences that add context to the destination while supporting local livelihoods. Done responsibly, these encounters deepen a traveller’s understanding of the valley beyond wildlife alone, and help ensure tourism benefits extend beyond the park boundary.
Photographic safaris: South Luangwa is a strong photographic destination. It’s a place where you can spend time working a scene properly – whether that means staying longer at an active area, waiting out the light, or returning repeatedly to the same productive stretch. Nsefu’s open river edges, cleaner sightlines in the dry season, and the frequency of high-energy wildlife encounters make it an extra special draw for photographers.
South Luangwa is a photographer’s paradise
Where to stay
Below are five excellent styles of stay, from “easy logistics” to ultra-immersive bush.
Mfuwe Lodge – easy access, comfortable base
The view of wading hippos from Mfuwe Lodge
Best for: First-timers to the Luangwa; travellers who want comfort, amenities, and straightforward logistics close to the park gate.
Mfuwe Lodge is the simplest place to start, and a strong choice for first-timers who want comfort and straightforward logistics. It’s accessible and well-equipped, with modern amenities including a pool and spa, and its location close to the park gate makes transfers and timing easy. It’s also known for those memorable “wildlife-through-the-lodge” moments that have become part of Luangwa safari folklore – with elephants wandering through the reception area when local wild mango trees are fruiting: the kind of encounter that reminds you this valley is still very much wild, even at the heart of camp.
The view from one of the Puku Ridge tent splash pools
Best for: Travellers who want a more elevated, scenic lodge setting without losing the bush feel.
If you want bigger views without losing the bush feeling, Puku Ridge Camp delivers a more elevated perspective. Perched on a ridge overlooking the Kukumbi floodplain, it’s designed for easy scanning and constant sightlines of ongoing action. The semi-tented chalets, each with a private deck, strike a strong balance between comfort and immersion – ideal for travellers who want a touch more luxury while still feeling close to the elements.
Mwamba Bush Camp – ultra-intimate, wilderness-first
Mwamba Bush Camp sundowners
Best for: Safari purists; repeat travellers; anyone who wants the feeling of living inside the ecosystem.
For travellers who want the most intimate, wilderness-first experience, Mwamba Bush Camp is the standout. Located at the confluence of the East Mwamba and main Mwamba Rivers with only four chalets, it’s ultra-personal and deliberately low-key, perfect for safari purists or anyone wanting to feel like they’re living inside the ecosystem rather than visiting it. Wildlife can move right through camp, and Mwamba’s “Last Waterhole Hide” is a signature highlight – a place for close-range, unhurried viewing where you can settle in and let the action come to you.
Tafika Camp – adventure and variety, just north of Nsefu
Tafika Camp chalet
Best for: Active travellers who want walking, driving, and something extra beyond the vehicle.
Just north of Nsefu, Tafika Camp offers a different energy: adventurous, friendly, and ideally set up for travellers who want variety in how they explore. It balances rustic charm with real comfort and is excellent for walking safaris and game drives, with biking available for those keen to add something active and slightly unconventional to their safari. Tafika is also one of the locations from which BBC series Kingdom was filmed – a detail that has become part of its appeal for travellers arriving with the landscape already etched into their minds.
Olimba Camp – off-the-beaten-path Nsefu
Olimba Camp’s eco-friendly concept chalet, opening in 2026
Best for: Adventurous travellers who want quieter corners and a less commercial feel – ideal for lodge-hopping within the park.
For an off-the-beaten-path finish – or a stay built around quieter corners – Olimba Camp, opening in 2026, is the hidden gem. It’s less commercialised and more remote, designed for travellers who want a calmer, more exploratory safari and who enjoy the feeling of discovering lesser-known areas rather than focusing on the busiest routes. Olimba formerly served as a base for the crew filming Kingdom, reinforcing just how compelling this Nsefu wilderness area is.
Why you’ll want to go
South Luangwa still delivers what many safari destinations promise but can’t always sustain: a sense of place. Nsefu, in particular, feels like the park’s wild core – predator-rich, quiet, and made for travellers who want to do safari properly: walk, watch, wait, and go deep. Add the global spotlight of Kingdom, and it’s no surprise that this “once secret” corner of Zambia is now firmly on travellers’ wish lists.
A hyena clan makes a meal of it
Further reading
South Luangwa National Park and Nsefu area are centred around the Luangwa River, and life in the valley benefits from its rich floodplains that spill over into the surrounding plains, savannas and woodlands – ideal safari habitat. Read more about South Luangwa and Nsefu here.
Travel in Africa is about knowing when and where to go, and with whom. A few weeks too early/late or a few kilometres off course, and you could miss the greatest show on Earth. And wouldn’t that be a pity?
Trust & Safety
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We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level.
YOUR safari choice does make a difference - thank you!
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level. YOUR African safari choice does make a difference – thank you!
WATCH
Want to visit Namibia on safari? We have 
+ East vs Southern Africa safari + Kunene fights poaching
About Gail Thomson
Photographer of the Year 2026 is here. This year’s winners will travel to Rwanda’s Nyungwe National Park, a misty rainforest alive with chimpanzees, other primates, birds and ancient trees. Entries are open 16 February to 7 May 2026. 
+ magical Cape Town
Dr Juliet King is Project Manager for Conserve Global’s Suguta Valley project. Juliet is a zoologist with over 20 years of experience working with indigenous communities in Kenya to advance conservation and sustainable natural resource management. She has supported the establishment of community conservancies and authored national guidelines for conservancy development. Juliet has developed community-managed ecological monitoring tools for terrestrial and marine ecosystems and works to strengthen community-based natural resource management by empowering local institutions to govern land and resources. Her approach integrates traditional knowledge systems with contemporary policy and legislation. She has supported community-led sanctuaries for critically endangered species, including black rhino, hirola antelope, and Rothschild’s giraffe, and is committed to ensuring conservation benefits indigenous communities equitably and sustainably.
Born in Kassel, Germany, Christina Schwenck is a clinical psychologist and wildlife photographer based in Germany. In her spare time, she explores wild corners of Africa with a camera in hand. Her travels have taken her to South Africa, Kenya, Botswana, Namibia, Tanzania and Uganda. Wildlife photography is her mindfulness – a meditative exercise in patience, observation, and reverence for the natural world.
Gerald Hinde’s photographic journey is rooted in a lifelong passion for wildlife. Educated at King Edward School in Johannesburg, he spent nearly three decades in the family motor business, serving as managing director before the company’s sale in 1989. That same year, he turned fully to wildlife photography, publishing his first book and launching a prolific creative career. Since then, Gerald has produced numerous acclaimed wildlife books and documentaries, earned major accolades and photography awards, and been widely published internationally. His work combines artistry with a deep commitment to conservation.
Irene Amiet is a Swiss-born writer and photographer whose work is shaped by years spent living and working across Africa, the Americas and Europe.
Stefan Winterboer has spent 25 years in the safari industry, most of it guiding and managing bush logistics at the wild end of the map. Now he’s swapped (most of) his khakis for a new role: helping travellers plan unforgettable African adventures as a safari expert at Africa Geographic.
Shem Compion was born in Cape Town, South Africa. He has been a photographer since 2000. He has spent much of his life exploring Africa, previously living for seven months in a Land Rover, climbing volcanoes, and building specialist wildlife photography hides. He is the co-founder and Managing Director of C4 Photo Safaris, the co-founder of Photo Mashatu, and the co-founder of Nurture Africa Safaris. His images have won awards in some of the most prestigious photography competitions around the world. In 2021, he co-produced the acclaimed documentary Zero To Zero, covering the Covid pandemic in South Africa. His naturalist skills and creative photographic approach have also seen him work with the BBC’s Natural History Unit on the landmark series Planet Earth, as well as two series of Netflix’s Tales By Light. He published his first book A Landscape of Insects in 2009 and has since published six other titles, including If Trees Could Talk and a three-part series Insider’s Guide: Top Wildlife Photography Spots, exploring the most remote destinations in southern Africa. He is a popular speaker at international photography and nature events. He is also a fellow of the Royal Geographic Society, London. He is currently based in Pretoria, South Africa. Read more about Shem here: 
Born of volcanic forces, the Rift gave rise to immense geological textures and extraordinary ecological diversity. It reaches from deep pasts into unfolding, still undefined futures, touching every part of our planet.
