Page 16 – Africa Geographic

iSimangaliso: the moving release of two rehabilitated turtles

Sodwana Bay, in the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, boasts the southernmost reaches of the tropical west Indian Ocean and a population of green turtles.

On 28 November 2016, two rehabilitated green turtles (Chelonia mydas) nicknamed ‘Mel’ and ‘Grotto’, were released here at Mabibi by park CEO Andrew Zaloumis and senior aquarist Robert Kyle from SAAMBR (South African Association for Marine Biological Research).

Each year, concerned members of the public take stranded turtles to local vets or into Aquaria around the country. This release was part of ongoing rehabilitation measures undertaken by iSimangaliso together with the Two Oceans Aquarium in Cape Town, uShaka Marine World in Durban and Bayworld in Port Elizabeth.

During winter, juvenile turtles are swept down from the northern coast of KwaZulu-Natal in the Agulhas current. They are often in a weak condition and could be dehydrated or hypothermic, or worse, injured in some way.

Green turtles don’t nest on our beaches, but rather on the beaches alongside the Mozambique Channel. However, they are common in the South African offshore waters. Of the two turtles that were released, little Mel is the smallest weighing 816 grams. She was stranded at the Willows outside Port Elizabeth on 16 December 2015 and treated at Bayworld for ‘shell rot’. She recovered completely. As Mel was treated medically she could be sexed.

The second turtle ‘Grotto’ was stranded on Grotto Beach near Cape Town on 29 April 2016. This turtle weighs 12.6 kg. Grotto cannot be sexed as green turtles only become sexually mature at 50 years old. This is just one of the reasons why saving, rehabilitating and releasing Green turtles back into the wild is so vital.

fiona-ayerst-isimangaliso2 — ©Fiona Ayerst

Both turtles were rehabilitated at Two Oceans Aquarium in Cape Town and then sent up to uShaka Marine World where they were observed for a few weeks before being released inside the marine protected area of the wetland park.

The Two Oceans Aquarium in Cape Town started releasing larger numbers of rehabilitated turtles in 2009, starting off with eight. Within only six years the numbers have increased dramatically and in 2015, 162 turtles were released back into the wild.

A proportion of the Shootout event entry fees contribute directly towards the iSimangaliso Rare and Endangered Species Fund which is used exclusively for the protection, reintroduction, monitoring and research of species such as these two turtles, within the park.

Zaloumis told me that, “this year for the first time, the fund is contributing to marine species conservation. R100 000 has already been allocated to a project on the ecological state of the coral reefs in the area.”

Zaloumis hopes both to increase awareness, and also to improve the efforts being made by the iSimangaliso Authority to protect and conserve marine areas.

Visitors to the park at this time of year (November through to March) could witness the miracle of egg-laying and the hatching of loggerhead and leatherback turtles. Watching a huge mother turtle lumber down the dunes and slip silently into the dark waves after covering her eggs in a deep sandy nest is strangely moving.

As I witnessed the release of Grotto and Mel back into the wild waters I noticed more than a few wet eyes amongst those involved. I hope my photos impart some of the emotion of that moment – a moment everyone present will remember forever.

Hwange

At thirteen minutes to midnight, I looked over my shoulder. My blood temperature dropped to match the chilly Hwange night. There he was, hugely muscled with a big black mane, padding silently, dangerously under the full moon.

The fully-grown male lion stood six metres behind me. I stood, swaddled in a blanket and beanie, in an open-sided hide at Big Toms, not far from Robins Camp. I could hear my heartbeat and feel the adrenaline. But there was no way I was going to call out to my fellow counters, snoring in their roof tents, in case that big boy decided I was worth a closer look.

It’s never boring on the Hwange Game Census. This is remarkable in itself, because on ‘the count’ – as it’s better known – teams of volunteers sit as still and as quietly as they can for 24 hours. They must remain silent and motionless from midday to noon the next day over the last full moon of the dry season.

It turns out that when you’re sitting in a hide, or a vehicle in the middle of the bush, just watching and waiting, animals and birds you might otherwise disregard become reason for great excitement. On quiet counts, I’ve seen people high-five when a herd of impala strolls by.

Young elephants kicking up dust in Hwange © Sue Flood — Elephants kicking up dust in Hwange ©Sue Flood, The Hide

One thing you can count on

The Hwange Game Census is organised and run by Wildlife and Environment Zimbabwe (WEZ). It has the distinction of being the longest continuously-running game census in Southern Africa. Since 1972, through war, drought, boom years and bust, and all of Zimbabwe’s economic and political instability, the count has been one constant in an ever-changing country.

The count covers about 90 pans, dams, hides, natural springs and river pools. For three nights, including the night of the actual census, Hwange is busier than at any other time of year. About 300 WEZ members, all volunteers, take over virtually all the accommodation in Hwange’s three camps: Main Camp, Sinamatella and Robins.

Although its numbers are never going to be completely accurate, the annual census report, compiled by long-term WEZ member and statistician Foster Betts, makes for fascinating reading. Two crucial things the count identifies are the location of species of interest to researchers and trends within the park.

The most notable trend in the 18 years I’ve been counting is the increasing presence of elephants. Elephant numbers on the count have reached around 30,000 in recent years. And their proportion relative to the total animals counted has risen from between 30 and 40 per cent in the 1980s to 60 per cent or higher.

A family of elephants in Hwange ©Jo Sharp

the-hide-pan-sit-k2-dave-dell — Close encounters with elephants in Hwange ©Dave Dell, The Hide

Other animals’ fortunes wax and wane. Giraffe numbers are down. This is not surprising, given the toll the elephant population takes on trees. However, rarer antelope such as sable and roan are doing well in Hwange. Buffalo and lion numbers are good. My team counted a herd of 1,000 buffalo last year, and other big herds were seen on this year’s count.

In addition to my moonlit male lion – who conveniently reappeared shortly after dawn so that my fellow counters could get a look at him – we counted giraffe, zebra, reedbuck, sable, warthog, impala, spotted hyena, and black-backed jackal. Two days before the count, I had two separate sightings of wild dog. And, on the morning after the count, two dogs killed an impala just outside Robins Camp.

Birds aren’t counted during the census, but teams are issued with a bird identification sheet to tick and separate forms to record species that are rare in Hwange. These include ostrich and martial eagle, both of which our team spotted.

Clockwise from left: WEZ volunteers scanning and recording as zebras drink at Big Toms Hide © Tony Park; Making friends with the Hwange Park Rangers ©Annelien Oberholzer; An unusual sight: vehicles queueing to enter Hwange ©Annelien Oberholzer — Clockwise from left: WEZ volunteers scanning and recording as zebras drink at Big Toms Hide ©Tony Park; Making friends with the Hwange Park Rangers ©Annelien Oberholzer; An unusual sight: vehicles queueing to enter Hwange ©Annelien Oberholzer

Rooftop camping at Deteema Picnic Site, Hwange National Park ©Annelien Oberholzer

Close encounters of the wild kind

The game count is the only time ‘ordinary’ people like me can be out in the park alone after dark. It’s fun, but not for the faint-hearted. First-time counters are usually paired with more experienced volunteers.

I’ve had a lioness run past me just a few metres away as I was boiling a kettle. A bull elephant stuck his trunk through the window of my Land Rover. A curious hyena sniffed at my door as I drank chicken cup-a-soup. And a hungry giraffe mistook my roof tent for a tree.

Counters not in a hide generally set up next to their vehicles. They might sit under the shade of an awning during the day, but at night they keep inside their cars unless answering the call of nature. But sometimes not even that is possible.

As we headed back towards Robins Camp after our count this year, we came across friends who’d been at Little Toms, just down the road. Apparently, they’d also been visited by lions. In the middle of the night, 14 female lions and cubs had decided to lie down to sleep in a circle around their camper. The Hwange game count is not for sissies.

the-hide-buffalo — Buffalo drinking from a pan in Hwange ©The Hide

the-hide-mbiza-sundowners — A black-backed jackal drinks from a shallow pan supplied by a solar pump at Mbiza in Hwange ©The Hide

Participate in a game count

Every year, WEZ runs game counts in Hwange, Mana Pools, Gonarezhou, Hippo Pools and Lake Chivero. The counts give a rough indication of population sizes and show if animals are being disturbed by poachers. Counters also assess the status of vegetation and the availability of water. WEZ uses the census information to advise Zimbabwe National Parks on the state of biodiversity and to help set conservation and management priorities.

The game counts are usually done in September, October or December and are open to anyone to participate. For more information about participating in a game count, email mashwild@utande.co.zw.

About Hwange

Hwange National Park is Zimbabwe’s largest national park, covering an area of 14,651km² – approximately half the size of Belgium. The name – mispronounced ‘Wankie’ in colonial times – comes from a local chief. In the early 19th Century, the area was the royal hunting grounds of the Ndebele warrior-king Mzilikazi. Later, settlers tried to farm and breed cattle there but were deterred by the lack of water and abundance of tsetse flies and predators. It was set aside as a game reserve in 1928 and proclaimed a national park in 1961.

Although it has virtually no natural water sources (water must be pumped in), Hwange is a haven for over 100 mammal and 400 bird species. There are more than 20,000 elephants in the park, and it protects what is thought to be one of the largest populations of African wild dog. Large prides of lion and buffalo are frequently seen there, and you also have a good chance of spotting leopard, as well as cheetah and spotted hyena. The wild and woolly brown hyena occurs here too but is rather rare.

the-hide-dry-season-2 — A large herd of buffalo trails in to drink water from the pan during the dry season in Hwange ©The Hide

Rain approaches Hwange © Tim Marks — The sky darkens before the rain in Hwange © Tim Marks, The Hide

Rain transforms Hwange's dry landscape into lush grasslands — Rain temporarily transforms Hwange’s arid landscape into lush green grasslands ©The Hide

Where to stay in Hwange

There are three national parks camps inside Hwange. Main camp, at the main entrance to the park, is close to several pans and pumped waterholes. Sinamatella, on the northern border of the park, is set on an outcrop overlooking a riverbed and plains. Robins Camp is close to the western boundary and was bequeathed, along with his cattle ranch, by farmer Harold Robins in 1939.

The camps offer self-catering cottages and camping sites, as well as restaurants, bars and basic shops. Fuel may be available, but it’s best not to rely on this. Camping is also permitted at several picnic sites within the park. Bookings for national parks camps and campsites must be made directly through national parks at kkgatsiga@zimparks.co.zw or on +263 14 706077/8.

For camps & lodges at the best prices and our famous ready-made safari packages, log into our app. If you do not yet have our app see the instructions below this story.

About the author

Bestselling author Tony Park first visited southern Africa 21 years ago as a tourist on a once-in-a-lifetime holiday. That first safari turned out to be anything but. After returning every year since 1995 he and his wife, Nicola, put down roots in South Africa four years ago, buying a house in a game reserve on the edge of the Kruger National Park. The former journalist, public relations and army officer (he served in Afghanistan in 2002) now spends six months of the year in his native Australia and the balance in Africa where he researches and writes his thriller novels.

In this edition, Tony talks about his personal experiences in Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park, including the annual game census in the park, which Tony and Nicola have taken part in for the past 17 years.
Several of Tony’s novels, including Far Horizon, African Dawn and Safari are set in Hwange and they reflect his love for troubled Zimbabwe and its flagship game reserve. Tony’s African novels have a strong environmental bent. His 13^th and latest book, Red Earth, set in KwaZulu-Natal, focuses on the plight of Africa’s endangered vultures. Read more at www.tonypark.net

Himba: Hearts of Sand

Travel photographer Matthieu Rivart has spent a great deal of his time travelling to some of the world’s most remote places to document the beauty of vanishing cultures. These trips are his attempt to understand human nature, and to preserve its essence through photography before our world becomes less rich in cultural diversity. The Himba tribe is one of the first indigenous tribes that Matthieu ever heard about.

Living in the northern desert region of Namibia, the Himba are a semi-nomadic people whose population is estimated to be around 50,000. As this region is considered to be one of the wildest on the African continent, they have largely managed to resist modernisation.

Every time Matthieu visits the Himba, he drives through Namibia to reach Opuwo, the small capital of the Kaokoland region, which is close to the border of Angola. In Opuwo he meets a local guide, who shows him the way to the most remote villages, introduces him to the inhabitants, and also plays the role of translator between the photographer and the people.

From his own experience, Matthieu can testify that being accompanied by a good guide is the key to a successful trip. Before heading to the Himba villages, Matthieu and his guide buy food to show their gratitude to the tribe for welcoming and spending time with him. In every encounter he has, Matthieu first builds a strong link with the individual before taking a photo. He believes that a good photograph relies on a unique interaction between two people, so he has always been reluctant to give money in exchange for taking photos, as he believes that paying people prevents creating a genuine connection. He also fears that money earnt from cultural tourism could threaten the Himba’s traditional way of life, as the financial incentive erodes at the culture and turns the people into objects of entertainment who are merely required to re-enact traditions for spectators.

? © Matthieu Rivart

Himbas are particularly known for their beauty regime, as they cover their skin and hair with a red mixture called otjize, which is made of ochre and butterfat.
As Himba live in isolated desert regions, access to water is a daily concern, and the precious resource is reserved solely for drinking. Over time, water has even developed a holy element, and many Himba women actively avoid putting their body in contact with water.

Otjize is used to protect the skin from sun and insects, and to perfume the body. It has both a hygienic and aesthetic function, and rubbing their skin with this mixture is part of a morning ritual for Himba women. It is also used to cover jewellery, clothes and headdresses, and is re-applied to hair braids roughly every two months.

In addition to this, women also burn aromatic herbs and roots to perfume their body. On such occasions, they sit by the burning herbs under a blanket and wait for several minutes until the perfumed smoke has done its job. It’s quite the sight to see when a woman removes the blanket, as a cloud of smoke temporarily hides her!

? © Matthieu Rivart

Jewellery and headwear both play an important role in Himba culture, as they reflect the status of a person. Many Himba women fix hair extensions made of goat hair to their natural hair, which is then applied with otjize. This hairstyle shows that the girl has reached puberty and is now considered a woman, and she will keep that hairstyle throughout her adult life.

Himba women also wear a headdress if they’re married, which usually takes the form of a small hat made of leather. During one of Matthieu’s stays, he met women who were crossing the desert on foot to visit relatives. As they wanted to travel lightly, they just placed a piece of plastic bag between their central braids to make sure their status as married women could still be recognised.

The jewellery of many Himba women consists of a mix of plastic bracelets bought at the closest market, recycled wire, and more traditional necklaces. The most iconic of them, called ohumba, is made of metal beads that support a shell. This necklace, which is a symbol of fertility, is passed down from one generation to the next and isn’t always worn on a day-to-day basis.

During Matthieu’s stay in one Himba village, two young girls were particularly interested in looking at the photos that he was taking, and were complimenting each other on their beauty. They would even use their image on the screen as a way of knowing how to readjust their jewellery – before asking for another photo to be taken!

? © Matthieu Rivart

Young Himba girls have a specific hairstyle that is easily recognisable – this consists of two braided hair plaits that extend forward over the forehead. Boys, on the other hand, have just a single braid that extends backwards to the rear of the head.

Once a girl has her first menstrual cycle, her status changes and a ceremony is organised to celebrate this rite of passage. Before attending the ceremony, the girl must leave the village for several days on her own. When she’s back, the village organises for an animal to be sacrificed, which is usually a goat, and the girl receives jewellery that will show her new status. A change of hairstyle will also be part of the transition, as the girl, who is now a woman, will wear her hair in the traditional braids covered with otjize.

? © Matthieu Rivart

Meeting traditional tribes requires showing respect and developing trust for the experience to be meaningful for both parties. Nowadays, with cultural tourism on the rise, genuine encounters with tribal communities are harder to achieve and often involve travelling to remote areas that tourists don’t tend to visit. It is important to spend time with the people and to adapt to the local way of life to integrate a bit in the community. Matthieu also feels that it is important that visitors interact without disturbing the daily life of the village – even if this means refraining from taking photos at first.

During Matthieu’s first trip to a Himba village, he met the young woman in this photograph. She was living in a small village occupied by a dozen inhabitants. After several days spent in the village, she became more familiar with Matthieu’s presence, and they spent a long time talking about the meaning of her jewellery – their discussion became so natural that taking this photograph happened organically.

? © Matthieu Rivart

For many visitors, the proportion of women in Himba villages is striking. The main reason for this is that men spend most of their time looking after the cattle and sometimes have to be away with the animals for several days to lead them to areas with sufficient amounts of grass for grazing.

The women, on the other hand, stay in the village where their daily life consists of looking after their children, collecting wood to build houses, or preparing meals. Even during their demanding and sometimes physical tasks, which can even involve digging for water in the sand of a dry riverbed, Himba women still wear their jewellery, which is part of their identity.

Men can marry several women, depending on their level of wealth, which is mainly judged by how many cattle they own. But women are only permitted to have one husband. Although this may be the case, Himba society is relatively open-minded with regards to relationships between men and women, and married women tend to have boyfriends, while some single women sometimes even have children with married men.

? © Matthieu Rivart

Himbas often face discrimination due to their ancestral way of life – especially with regards to their partial nudity, as women tend to wear short skirts made of goatskin. As the modern world closes in, the Himba often have to negotiate the gap between their traditional culture and consumer society. In Opuwo, Himba women can sometimes be seen in supermarkets. To afford their purchases, many are forced to sell their cattle or their jewellery, which gradually detaches them from their ancestors and traditions. Nowadays, more and more Himbas are also leaving their villages in pursuit of a more prosperous way of life.

When Matthieu spends time with tribes, he systematically shows people the portraits and photos that he takes. He feels that this helps to establish trust, as people can see exactly what he is doing, especially if they are not used to cameras.

? © Matthieu Rivart

Three places are particularly important in an onganda (Himba village) – the hut of the oldest man of the clan, who is the leader of the village, the kraal (livestock enclosure), and the okuruwo (holy fire).

The okuruwo plays an important role in daily life and, during his last stay with the Himbas, Matthieu would spend evenings gathered around the fire with the community, sharing the traditional porridge made of flour and goat milk, while the elder would tell the children stories and the women would dance and sing.

The Himba believe that the holy fire is a medium by which they can communicate with the spirits of their dead ancestors, and when the fire is not lit, it is considered offensive for foreigners to near or cross the fireplace.

One night, Matthieu recognised a young girl called Makupuaere sitting by a fire when most of the villagers had already retired to their huts to sleep. When he was close enough, he took a photo of her. The sound of the shutter echoed in the silent night, but Makupuaere did not move as she was sound asleep.

? © Matthieu Rivart

Taking photographs in indigenous villages means sharing the daily life of its inhabitants. As they usually live in remote areas, they’re quite reluctant to see foreigners so, to be accepted, one needs to adapt to their way of life, which is part of the magic of the experience.

Social ties are at the heart of daily life in any Himba village, which is made up of relatives. Communities are quite small – the biggest village that Matthieu has stayed in was composed of a dozen huts, while the smallest was a mere group of three huts inhabited by just a dozen of people

Also read: Himba – a people in transition

About the photographer

Raised in France, but now living in South Africa, Matthieu Rivart has been passionate about photography for a decade, and he strives to achieve the balance in his endeavours between expressing creativity and preserving authenticity.
Inspired by the work of anthropologists and explorers, Matthieu Rivart travels across the world – through deserts, jungles and mountains – to witness the beauty of diversity in humans and nature. As the winner of several international photo contests and prizes, Matthieu’s work can be enjoyed online on his website and in art galleries. You can also follow him on Facebook and Instagram.

Trophy hunting: sustainability problems in Zimbabwe exposed

Trophy hunting in Zimbabwe’s Matetsi Safari Area is not sustainable at current levels as trophy sizes are declining, there is little scientific data supporting quota sizes and hunting management is seriously incapacitated. Written By: Andreas Wilson-Späth

A paper published in the open-access scientific journal PLOS ONE last month reveals several major problems with trophy hunting in Zimbabwe’s Matetsi Safari Area.

Investigating the impact of trophy hunting

The effect trophy hunting has had on the Cape buffalo, elephant, greater kudu and sable antelope populations of the Matetsi Safari Area in the northwest of the country was analysed by a group of researchers led by Victor Muposhi of the Chinhoyi University of Technology in Zimbabwe. Specifically, they looked at records of trophy size, the age of killed animals at the time of “harvest”, annual hunting quotas and the number of animals actually shot by trophy hunters.

The study area covers about 3000 square kilometres and forms part of the much larger Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA TFCA) which straddles the borders of Angola, Namibia, Zambia, Botswana and Zimbabwe. It is divided into seven management units that have seen more than 37 years of trophy hunting.

Between 2004 and 2015, trophy hunters killed 807 Cape buffalo, 565 greater kudu and 369 sable antelopes here, while the period from 2005 to 2015 “yielded” 258 elephants.

A “dilemma” of sustainability

While they acknowledge that there has been “perpetual debate and polarity on the sustainability of trophy hunting”, the authors of the study clearly position themselves on the pro-hunting, “sustainable utilisation” side of the fence, suggesting that trophy hunting is “still considered as one sustainable way of supporting conservation in African countries endowed with abundant wildlife species” and that the use of a quota system “promotes sustainable off-takes” with “a negligible impact on overall ecology of wildlife species”.

It comes as somewhat of a surprise then that a number of their findings point to significant shortcomings of this philosophy in their chosen study area. These include the following

1. The trophy (i.e. tusk) size for hunted elephants has declined significantly from 2005 to 2015.

2. There is a tendency for the species under consideration to avoid “the hunting areas in favour of the neighbouring National Parks within the KAZA TFCA where there is no hunting”. This is consistent with earlier studies in the Greater Mapungubwe Transfrontier Conservation Area between South Africa, Botswana and Zimbabwe, which found that while ecotourism in an area caused elephant numbers to increase, trophy hunting was detrimental to transfrontier elephant populations.

3. Annual trophy hunting quotas issued for sable antelopes increased significantly during the study period. What’s of particular concern in this regard is that quotas for the area don’t appear to have been set on the basis of real scientific data. The researchers warn that their “findings cast doubt on the sustainability of […] the quota setting processes in this area” noting that “there seems to be over-reliance on questionable and subjective personal opinions in the quota setting process which in actual sense is supposed to be based on scientific evidence and ecological principles”. The severity of this matter is evident from the statement that “the viability of trophy hunting in this area over time may be compromised unless a review on the current trophy hunting policy is done”.

4. The authors argue that within the KAZA TFCA landscape current “harvesting rates” for the species under consideration “may not be sustainable from a trophy size perspective if age restrictions and trophy size limits were to be imposed”.

5. The scientists are critical of the management of trophy hunting activities in the area and emphasise that the economic decline of the country “seriously incapacitated” the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority’s ability to conduct the “periodic surveys and monitoring programs which are critical in the quota setting process”. While the Authority didn’t necessarily raise quotas for all of the hunted species, it did increase its control over hunting areas “in an attempt to increase its revenue base”. Crucially, “the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority is confronted with the dual task of generating revenue”, while simultaneously playing “the regulatory role in trophy hunting and wildlife conservation issues in Zimbabwe”. In a particularly incisive statement, the researchers observe that “self-regulating is always a problem as there is [sic] often questions on ‘who will police the regulator’”.

Having exposed all of these problems, one might expect the authors of the study to call for an outright ban on trophy hunting in the Matetsi Safari Area. Yet they refer merely to “a conservation and management dilemma” and recommend the implementation of age-based harvesting policies and the use of “ecological principles in the quota setting process”, while suggesting that for some species, hunting should be reduced or temporarily stopped by “introducing fallow or resting hunting years on a rotational basis” and that “temporal and spatial refuges” should be created “to facilitate ‘trophy hunting rest’”.

With the free for all in Zimbabwe since the virtual collapse of the state and all its organs post land invasions in 1999, no one really knows the extent of the looting in National Parks and other conservation areas where the situation may be far worse.

Anti-poaching pooches

Earlier this year, I had the privilege of meeting some of the Kruger National Park’s anti-poaching team, and I fell in love with one of them. Muscular and strong, he embodied everything you would come to expect in this line of work. A fierce protector, he also had a heartbreakingly vulnerable side. He cowered when faced with the inevitable shouting and shooting that comes with successfully tracking down a poacher; visibly upset. He required affirmation at this moment, some acknowledgement for a job well done. Because this lovable ranger had been trained a little differently and, as a four-legged, waggy-tailed member of the canine team, he stole my heart.

A history of canines in conservation

Man has trained dogs to help with work for generations. From security hounds and police force canines to hunting dogs, herding dogs and Anatolian shepherds that work to protect domestic livestock from predators, dogs are not only man’s best friend but have proven themselves to be some of our most valued employees and colleagues.

When it comes to anti-poaching, canine units are now all the rage, but this wasn’t always the case. Eric Ichikowitz, Director of the Ichikowitz Family Foundation, whose initiatives include the establishment of one of the most substantial anti-poaching skills and canine training academies in Africa, explains: “The first canine was introduced to Kruger National Park in December 2010 to help fight poaching. At the time, the use of canines in a Big Five game environment was met with a lot of resistance, and most commentators were of the view that canines were not suited for an anti-poaching role when faced with the Big Five.”

When the PAMS Foundation in Tanzania first started talking about the amazing abilities of tracking and detection dogs, little was known about working with dogs in Africa, and law enforcement and conservation officials were sceptical. But after seeing them in action, many a raised brow turned into a crinkled one as people began to formulate plans to establish anti-poaching canine units, and criminals who observed them in action soon started to fear them.

Kruger now has over 50 working dogs spread throughout the park

After the success of Ngwenya, the first dog to be introduced into the Kruger National Park, everyone began to see the impact that properly trained dogs and handlers could have in anti-poaching teams. Says Ichikowitz: “These days, almost all big reserves have a canine unit assisting their anti-poaching units. Since the launch of Paramount Group’s Anti-Poaching and K9 Academy, we have seen a rise in national parks – not just in South Africa but in many African countries – and private reserves that are establishing canine units in their parks.” For instance, Kruger now has over 50 working dogs spread throughout the park under the guidance of the dedicated and passionate Johan de Beer, who has been instrumental in setting up the canine centre in Kruger for the continued management of this programme.

new-dogs-kruger-canine-unit — New dogs at the Kruger National Park Canine Centre pictured with Johan de Beer of SANParks and Gaven Holden-Smith of Tracking and Conservation K9 Training. Handlers’ faces are blurred to protect their identity. ©Janine Avery

dog-handler — A handler and his best friend ©Jeremy Goss, Big Life Foundation

Types of dogs

While it would be wonderful to adopt every single rescue dog and turn them into anti-poaching pooches, the reality is that these dogs need to be selectively bred for efficiency in their specific line of work. As Kirsty Brebner, Rhino Project Manager at the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT), puts it: “You wouldn’t use a dachshund to cover long distances at speed – it just doesn’t have the legs. Breeds of choice are generally shepherds (Belgian and German), but other breeds include border collies, labradors, springer spaniels, beagles, bloodhounds and bloodhound crosses. Working Dogs for Conservation (WD4C) works successfully with shelters, but it is difficult – it takes assessing a lot of dogs to find the right dog with drive.”

For instance, in the Detection Dog Programme, supported by PAMS Foundation, which falls under the Tanzanian Police Horse and Dog Unit, there are nine dogs in the team. Five of these are a mixed-breed of local Tanzanian dog with some German shepherd. These dogs are more resistant to disease than foreign dogs and are better adapted to the local climate. And at Big Life Foundation in Kenya, they typically work with two breeds – bloodhounds and shepherds.

However, there is a mixed breed rescue dog, called Didi, who is an exception to the rule. Jeremy Goss of Big Life Foundation explains: “She was selected because she certainly has some German shepherd in her, but that’s about all we know. Thanks to her diverse genetic background, Didi has turned out to be remarkably resilient to local diseases, and this makes up for her relative lack of scent receptors.”

When it comes to dogs with a strong sense of smell, you can’t go wrong with a hound. Foxhounds, blue ticks, and bloodhounds are all instinctively tracking dogs and can follow older tracks under challenging circumstances. It is said that one dog, together with its handler, can cover 60 times the area that a ranger without a dog could. Hounds also have great stamina and can handle extreme temperatures better than other breeds.

In Kruger, the latest additions of four bloodhound-doberman crosses have been a great success. One particular dog, Kilalo, even surprised her handler on a recent practice patrol when she led him on what he initially believed to be an incorrect detour after he lost sight of a poacher’s footprints. However, the dog was indeed still following her nose and managed to cut out a large section of track by taking a nifty shortcut. Together, Kilalo and her handler have already led to 18 successful poacher arrests in Kruger.

The rest of Kruger’s canine unit consists of a mix of bloodhounds, malinois and shepherds, with each dog playing a unique role. Specialised tracker dogs can follow spoor for up to two to three days; search dogs are used to detect species items such as rhino horn and ivory, or sniff out arms and ammunition at roadblocks, park gates, crime scenes or at suspect’s houses; and assault dogs are trained to attack and detain poachers.

Conraad de Rosner, founder and director for K9 Conservation, is well known for his work with weimaraners and Belgian malinois. Weimeraners are used to track animals, detect animal remains and snares, locate wounded animals and occasionally assist wildlife vets and scientists with their work. His malinois, on the other hand, are used for tracking human suspects, detecting firearms and bullet casings, and performing restraining functions when detaining suspects requires force. Rosner says: “While both breeds are classed as ‘patrol dogs’, their functions differ somewhat and often their skills and abilities complement and assist each other in the field. For this reason, and depending upon the situation, two field rangers – each with a different dog breed – are sometimes deployed together. All our dogs are trained in protection work, and they are capable of suspect apprehension should the need arise. These dogs are specially trained to bite or apprehend a suspect only upon command, and to detain that suspect with minimal force.”

With so many personalities around, it’s challenging to pick a favourite pooch. That said, van Straaten’s favourite breed is the Belgium malinois. The reason, he explains, “is that it’s a good all-rounder. It can track, apprehend a poacher, protect the handler, and search for evidence and illegal substances.” However, he does say that every dog he has worked with has a special place in his heart – they are all individuals.

Don't mess with a Kruger attack dog ©K9 Conservation — Don’t mess with an attack dog ©K9 Conservation

attack-dog-training — An attack dog in training in Kruger National Park ©Ryan Avery

Trials and tribulations

It has not always been easy trying to convince rangers and anti-poaching teams, which have more than enough on their plate and limited access to funds, that dogs are a good idea. And, as the use of canines in conservation work progresses, new issues arise that need to be worked into budgets and training programmes.

For instance, dogs are initially often trained with rewards. Now, imagine a dog that has completed a job well done, suddenly to be faced with a situation in which the handler is in a combat zone, complete with gunshots, shouting and confusion. This is not the reaction the dog necessarily expected, and it can become frightened. Krissie Clark of PAMS Foundation explains: “Dog handlers have had to learn new skills and have to carry around dog treats and toys to reward the dogs when they detect the correct scent. One challenge is to keep the dogs productive and motivated, as they need to be finding the right scent regularly so they can be rewarded. Thus, operations need to be increasingly based on good intelligence to avoid doggy burnout (dogs sniffing for days on end without finding anything, resulting in limited rewards and playtime for the dogs).”

Handlers also need to know how to react if a dog gets injured in the bush, or how to keep their dogs fit if they can’t work for a couple of days or weeks for any reason. Sniffer dogs also don’t necessarily come across the contraband they are trained to sniff every day, such as rhino horn and ivory. Thus the dogs and their handlers need constant refresher courses to tackle these issues, often with trained professionals and specialised veterinarians, which can be challenging to arrange.

dog-school-launch — Launch of Paramount Group’s Anti-Poaching and K9 Academy ©Paramount Group

Dogs themselves also need to be protected. They work in daytime temperatures that can often reach over 40ºC on challenging terrain, with several threats to their lives. De Rosner explains: “The challenge is, of course, being on a Big Five game reserve and the dangers that come with mostly walking on foot. The heat of the day also limits the working hours of the dog. The kit and equipment used for a working dog are crucial. It must be comfortable for the dog and easy to use for the handler. For instance, there are now companies that are testing lightweight but effective bulletproof vests for canines, which have a specialised gel that can regulate the dog’s body heat. So they keep it warm when it is colder or cool it down during hot temperatures.”

Also, specialised goggles to protect dog’s eyes, booties to prevent cuts and lacerations on their feet, compactable water bowls, air-conditioned portable kennels, and high-tech electric fences to keep predators out, are now all things seen on wishlists of game reserves across Africa. A handler no longer carries only a gun and a radio, but also a canine first aid kit and a ball for his trusty sidekick. Krissie Clark of PAMS Foundation elaborates: “As with any domestic animal, the detection dogs are susceptible to disease and heat. In Tanzania, if the dogs are working in the bush, trypanosoma (sleeping sickness), which is transmitted through tsetse fly bites, can kill them if not detected and treated early. There are also many other parasites to which the dogs may be susceptible. Good quality food and regular check-ups with the veterinarian are essential for healthy, happy dogs.”

Goss echoes these sentiments: “The African bush is a challenging environment – often hot, dry and dusty. The dust, in particular, has been a challenge for the bloodhounds due to the rolls of skin that they have, and our dogs were contracting frequent eye infections. They have now had operations to remove some of the excess skin around their eyes, which will hopefully solve the problem. There is only so much equipment that is useful when working with tracker dogs – the most important skill is a timeless one, and that is the handler’s understanding of the abilities (and limits) of their animals.”

It does indeed seem to be that the biggest challenge of all is selecting the best handler for each dog. But while it may be the greatest challenge to pair dog and handler, it also may be the greatest reward. Clark says: “It has been heartwarming to see how the relationships between the handlers and their specific dogs have developed so rapidly to the point that they have truly fallen in love with their dogs and care for them as if they are their own children. Developing such close bonds with dogs is so special.”

two-rangers-anti-poaching-dog — An anti-poaching pooch leads the way! ©Jeremy Goss, Big Life Foundation

Notable achievements

Some of these canine units have become so successful that their operations have led to a significant decrease in poaching. De Rosner can proudly boast about one particular reserve, with an anti-poaching unit supplied by K9 Conservation, that saw the addition of 18 black rhinos two years ago. To date, all the rhinos are alive and well, and a few of the females are even pregnant. Goss echoes a similar sentiment: “When Big Life Foundation started using dogs in 2010, poaching (and particularly elephant poaching) was still a major threat in the Amboseli ecosystem. At that time, the dogs were responsible for tracking down poachers, with such success that they can certainly be identified as a factor in the huge reduction in poaching in Amboseli. But the dogs are now more important as a deterrent, as poachers know that it is highly risky to poach in these areas.”

Goss uses one particular incident to explain just how effective the dogs can be. This time it was Didi that was involved in tracking elephant poachers from a scene in Tsavo West National Park. “It started the same way that all elephant poaching incidents do – the grisly discovery of lifeless bodies, five of them in this case, lying in the bush with their faces hacked off — a family group of all ages. The Kenya Wildlife Service tracker dog was straight on the poachers’ trail. The Big Life tracker dog, Didi, and rapid response units joined the hunt where the tracks left the Tsavo West National Park, moving onto community land. The tracks ran, and the rangers ran with them. Assisted at times by expert human trackers, the dogs led the rangers to two neighbouring homes. There was no sign of the ivory, but Didi led the search to a home that contained two axes and a saw, still wet with blood. With the help of the local community, two suspects were identified and arrested. Big Life activated its informer network and, a day later, word came back on a third member of the gang, hiding out in a small town some 40 miles from where the elephants were killed. An undercover Big Life team went in that evening, and together with a back-up unit, arrested the third suspect at 4 am the next morning.”

And when it comes to arrests, the dogs are proving to play a vital role. Notable achievements include the detection of ivory in several critical cases in Tanzania involving notorious Chinese poaching syndicates. And in South Africa, according to a recent statement from SANParks, “over the past ten months, the canine units have successfully tracked and taken down over 90% of the poachers arrested in the Kruger National Park.”

Ichikowitz says: “The most notable achievement is Killer, a Belgian malinois that was trained by us and that is deployed in Kruger National Park as part of their anti-poaching unit. Killer and his handler have been responsible for the arrest of 115 groups of poachers in Kruger. Killer received a gold medal from Prince Harry for his contribution to conservation.” While another of the Paramount Group’s pooches, Arrow, made history earlier this year when he became Africa’s first skydiving anti-poaching dog, truly taking conservation efforts to new heights.

Another particularly special canine is Duma, a German shepherd puppy at the Fundimvelo Thula Thula Rhino Orphanage. He plays the role of protector and playmate for orphaned rhinos and will go and get the carers if a rhino is calling or awake. The team at the orphanage are also trying to train him to detect orphaned rhino calves in the bush.

What the future looks like

A positive message of success consistently comes from the people involved with canine anti-poaching units. In the words of Kirsty Brebner, Rhino Project Manager at EWT: “Conservation dogs are playing an increasingly important role in tackling the scourge of wildlife crime – these animals are often the unsung heroes in this battle.”

The future looks promising but, according to Brebner, “increased and more dangerous contact with poachers, as well as smarter ways of smuggling contraband, need changes in training methods. The most valuable thing I think is networking and the sharing of successes and failures. I think that this is critical going forward – that we encourage dog programmes to talk to each other, share, and even have rangers from new projects spend time with seasoned rangers.”

Van Straaten also emphasises that, as poaching activities become more complex, so anti-poaching methods need to adapt. “New projects are on the way where dogs are going to be trained to detect poison and gunshots to take the handler to the crime scene where the shots are being fired. These skills add value to the dogs and will make the dog teams much more functional and efficient.”

Other projects include the use of canines at more points along the supply chains of illegal wildlife products, including international shipping and aircraft ports, a coordination between on-the-ground canine units and drone technology, and even a coordinated project between the National Parks Agency of Gabon and the Ichikowitz Family Foundation, to introduce an anti-poaching canine team to protect Gabon’s forest elephants.

De Beer sums it all up, succinctly: “I do think that anti-poaching units will never again work without a good tracking dog.”

How you can help

There are many ways that people can help to support the canine anti-poaching units. The best way is often through a responsible monetary donation, as any funds can then be combined to spend on priority items. Unfortunately, much of the gear and medical equipment is highly specialised and can only be purchased from specific suppliers.

You can also make contact with the different canine units featured below to find out their wishlists if you prefer to provide a specific item or service.
– Ichikowitz Family Foundation
– Paramount Group
– Ngala Private Game Reserve, supported by Our Horn is NOT Medicine
– PAMS Foundation, Tanzania
– SANParks’ Kruger National Park K9 Centre, supported by the Lowveld Region of the SANParks Honorary Rangers
– EWT’s Rhino Conservation Project
– Big Life Foundation
– K9 Conservation

Also read: More dogs for Kruger’s canine unit

rhino-dog — An anti-poaching dog keeps an eye out for rhino in Balule Private Game Reserve ©Craig Spencer

About the author

JANINE AVERY is the first to confess that she has been bitten by the travel bug… badly. She is a lover of all things travel, from basic tenting with creepy crawlies to lazing in luxury lodges – she will give it all a go.

Janine is passionate about wildlife and conservation, and she comes from a long line of biologists, researchers and botanists.

PHASA to defend captive-bred lion resolution

The Professional Hunters Association of South Africa (PHASA) is to defend its position on captive-bred lion hunting and breeding in the Pretoria High Court on 22 November. Originated by The Professional Hunters’ Association of South Africa

Ironically, the court date coincides with the association’s 39th annual general meeting (AGM) to be held from 21 to 23 November this year.

A year ago, the majority of members voted in favour of the association’s resolution to distance itself from captive-bred lion (CBL) hunting and breeding until such time as the South African Predators Association (SAPA) could convince PHASA and the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) of the conservation value of captive-bred lions.

Today, PHASA’s CBL resolution still stands; SAPA has failed to prove the above.

“Members engaging in CBL activities would be in direct violation of PHASA’s constitution, and would face an internal disciplinary hearing, which will end in dismissal if found guilty,” explains PHASA President, Stan Burger.

Why go to court?

Some PHASA members who wish to continue hunting CBL, and had their membership of PHASA suspended by the executive committee, have challenged their suspensions and the resolution taken at the 2015 AGM by approaching the court.

“PHASA stands by its resolution to distance itself from captive-bred lion hunting and breeding, and will defend its CBL resolution in court,” says Burger

PHASA’s concerns

“PHASA’s concern is rooted in the fact that the prevailing view amongst carnivore specialists, is that “the breeding of lions in captivity does not contribute to the conservation of the species,” notes Burger.

The above-mentioned view is shared by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES), the IUCN, the US Fish & Wildlife Services (USFWS), the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) and many more, including local hunting associations and many prominent international hunting associations (and hunters) across the globe.

The mere adherence to the minimum national and provincial legislative requirements of our country and/or the SAPA norms and accreditation process does not lend CBL shooting any credibility nor give it any social license. “No activity that is not socially acceptable is sustainable,” adds Burger.

“Captive-bred lion breeding and shooting do not uphold the moral principle that justifies responsible, ethical and legal hunting of wild lion (where the conservation value of hunting has been scientifically proven time and again) under the conditions of Fair Chase. For this reason, it is ethically indefensible and we will not support it,” says Burger.

The art of pottery making in Sudan

The streets in Sudan are lined with pottery. Every few hundred meters large clay pots are placed, full of clean, drinking water. And the clay keeps the water cool, even in the desert’s baking sun.

“The Sudanese are very generous,” my guide explained when I asked about the jugs. “They’ll put water in the pots every morning for people to drink because it gets so hot.” In fact, the water in Sudan is the best I’ve ever had. It’s a touch on the sweet side and pumped straight from the Nile.

My guide explained that, “The age-old tradition of pottery making is a skill passed down through the generations. But it’s a dying tradition.”

On the main road we came across a huge clay compound. From this one location the clay is collected, mashed up by a young boy whose sole duty is to crush out all the air as though he were crushing grapes. Beside him sits the pot maker.

He sits for hours, moulding and shaping the pots and remarkably, each pot looks exactly the same as the one before. There’s absolutely no difference, yet all of the pots are hand made. Once moulded into shape, the pots are placed in the kiln which is fired by a huge fire-pit dug into the clay mound.

Each person in the compound has their specific job; the air-crusher, the clay collector, the fire controller and the pot maker. Clay is quite popular in Sudan and found abundantly. In fact, most of the houses are built of clay – clay bricks are moulded and simply left in the sun to dry, becoming as hard and as reliable as standard bricks.

“Because of the plastic coolers coming in, this tradition will soon be lost,” my guide said sadly.

Yet again, plastic seems to be taking over livelihoods and it’s a sad fate that old traditions like these are doomed. You might think of it as progress or development but really it sets us back and with the continuing consumption of plastic we continue to suffocate our planet – the one true home we really should be taking better care of.

a cultural awakening in Sudan

Seventy years of studies on Sudanese pottery

A petrified forest in Sibiloi National Park

Sibiloi National Park in northern Kenya is vast, arid, remote and miles from the capital Nairobi and wildlife areas that the country is famed for.

“Next on our itinerary is the petrified forest,” said our guide as he came by our hotel to pick us up. “That’s interesting,” I thought to myself, curious to find out what a petrified forest looked like. We were on a week-long tour to Northern Kenya’s Sibiloi National Park. The drive from our hotel to Karsa Gate (the main entrance to the Sibiloi National Park) was about an hour or so. It took another half an hour from the entrance to reach the site of the petrified forest.

Discovered by researchers in the early ’70s, this site of numerous fossilised sections of trees, dates back to prehistoric times. According to our guide, this scrubland was once covered with lakes, rivers and lush rain forest. Powerful torrential rivers carried fallen trees into a vast swampland. The trees sank deep into the morass absorbing sediment and large amounts of the minerals in the water. Over an inordinate amount of time the trees became fossilised and turned into stone.

We immediately embarked on the trek up the hill. Most of the petrified tree trunks are strewn across hilly terrain. This means the petrified forest is mainly accessible by foot. It was hot. The sun was merciless. Eleven o’clock and the heat of the day was already in the mid-30s. Plodding up, using the protruding roots and rocks as support, I steadily made my way to the top following a marked path. Interspersed with huge logs of stone and countless broken chunks strewn about the ground, the hike gives you an up-close and touchable experience with the petrified trunks.

At the top of the hill, we were able to enjoy uninterrupted views of the petrified forest, the panoramic view gives you an overall lay of the land, with some of the petrified tree trunks looking like small dots from afar. The view was well worth walking through the sweltering heat. We spend a good amount of time up close and personal with the petrified trunks taking pictures, exploring the surroundings, watching the stone tree trunks sparkle in the sunlight and simply savouring the views.

All in all, it was a fascinating experience to hike through this place that was once a forest but vanished aeons ago. I loved this unique natural phenomenon that seemed to be from another world, a place resembling a mysterious cache of natural art frozen in stone. An austere landscape where the past speaks about a history of repeated jolts of climate change.

The petrified forest in Sibiloi National Park is definitely one of Kenya’s hidden gems and I would highly recommend this place to anyone. Get to experience life in this middle-of-nowhere in Kenya’s northern frontier. The remoteness undoubtedly adds to the charm of the destination.

If you are planning a trip to the petrified forest plan to carry your camera for excellent photographic opportunities. It goes without saying that in the blistering terrain you will need to refresh and replenish yourself with plenty of water, but also probably a good idea to pack some snacks. Don’t forget to put on your sunscreen and if possible wear a hat.

A shout out to Abdikadirhe, a curator at the nearby Loiyangalani Museum, who was not only a wonderful guide but gladly shared his wealth of information about the petrified forest.

Also read: Kenya’s Shaba National Reserve: wild Africa at its best

The model and the San

How can I begin to tell the story of the Ju/’Hoansi-San people? There are so many stories to tell, and they are the original storytellers. They have hunted and gathered for centuries, and they have left a long legacy of taking responsibility for the natural world around them, which they understand to be their provider.

The San have always been survivors who adapt against the odds, and perhaps this is partly due to their exemplary ethos of sharing everything they have with each other. For they believe that if we share, we will have enough.

San hunters stalking prey using bows and poisoned arrows ©Christian Boix

The Ju/’Hoansi-San people of the Nyae Nyae

The country that we now call Namibia was settled by hunter-gatherers at least 100,000 years ago. This may have only recently been proven by scientists thanks to archaeological discoveries, but the few hunter-gatherers that remain have always been aware of their ancestry. Now known as bushmen or the San, their ancestors were Namibia’s very first citizens, and they are part of one of the oldest tribes on Earth. Experts say we can still find traces of the earliest relatives of modern man in their genes.

Most people have heard of the Maasais, the Zulus, and many other indigenous groups across Africa but, for some reason, the San are often overlooked. Perhaps some people prefer to forget that the San were once classified as animals; that they were showcased in museums; that they were hunted for sport, trapped and abused.

San children playing together ©Christian Boix

san-bushman-food — A San tribesman prepares a freshly caught animal for consumption ©Aleksandra Ørbeck-Nilsen

San people set off with poles used to hook and retrieve porcupines or spring hares from their deep burrows ©Christian Boix

2,300 Ju/’Hoansi-San are living in the Nyae Nyae Conservancy – a semi-desert region covered by thorn bush that is located in part of an area, formerly known as Bushmanland, that was used to segregate ethnic groups during Apartheid.

Due to a rapidly developing world, today the San are arguably considered to be the most marginalised group in Southern Africa and are squeezed into 10% of their former territory. They live in extreme poverty and have been forced away from their original lands as a result of illegal land grabbing, leaving the San unable to survive in their traditional way. It used to be easy for the San women to gather when they could move from place to place, but nowadays the resources in their area do not have enough time to replenish, and the community is in competition with the elephants over the little food that is available. As a result, food security is generally quite low in San communities, and not many youths gain a basic education, so illiteracy and unemployment rates are very high.

The majority of the children living in this isolated region don’t have a bright future, and the health status of the San is undoubtedly linked to their low socio-economic status, as their life expectancy – at just 48 years – is 22% lower than the national average. These may all be sad facts, but the San are not unhappy people. On the contrary, they are great, and I feel lucky to learn from them.

If you are someone who adds baobab powder to your smoothie, follows a Banting diet, or tries to focus more on the now and to own less, then you are already following in the footsteps of the San without even necessarily knowing it. Ancient knowledge is catching up with us in a modern context, and there is a reverse trend towards a simpler way of life. But the San are already experts in this field.

A San game that involves enacting a mirror image of your opponent ©Christian Boix

san-bushmen-dancing-around-fire — A San tribal dance around the fire ©Jarrod Kyte

san-bushmen-walking — The San people are the original hunter-gatherers of Africa ©Harald Pokeiser

A barefoot solution

When I first went to Africa, I was like many travellers in that I wanted to help. But when I met the San people, I realised that the opposite had happened. They had saved me from my poverty of perception and opened my eyes to how much we can all teach each other. What they may lack in material wealth, they more than make up for in richness of spirit.

I started to realise that the western perception of Africa is creating more limitations than possibilities. For many years westerners have been arrogantly trying to change people’s lives without actually including them in the decision-making process.

This inspired me to upgrade the traditional outreach approach to encourage inter-dependency so that both parties give and receive. We need knowledge exchange and communication to all be able to live happily in this world, and everyone needs to teach and be taught.

Cultural tourism involves profiting from indigenous communities by offering tourists a chance to see how the locals live. However, in many cases, the tour operators are getting richer from this initiative, while the local people and their culture is becoming poorer. If cultural tourism is the only future that awaits, it’s understandable why school drop-out rates and alcohol abuse is rife in some indigenous communities.

san-bushman-and-aleksandra-orbeck-nilsen — A San tribesman bends down to talk with Aleksandra ©Harald Pokeiser

san-bushmen-and-model-around-fire — Aleksandra sitting around the fire talking to the tribesmen ©Harald Pokeiser

aleksandra-san-bushman-examine-tracks — A skilled San tracker shares his knowledge with Aleksandra ©Louis Libenberg

However, there are ways to share the stories, dreams, ideas and experiences of African tribes without compromising their lifestyle or pride. At Nanofasa Conservation Trust, we believe that ancient knowledge can create modern-day work opportunities. Nanofasa is a non-profit trust in Namibia that was established in Norway in 2011, and that aims to empower the ancient San communities living next to conservation areas to protect wildlife while maintaining and celebrating their culture.

Nanofasa means ‘nature never jumps’ and, together with the San people, the organisation works to ensure healthy and productive interactions between nature, culture and communities to conserve biodiversity and ecosystems for a sustainable future.

The Chinese proverb goes: “Give a man a fish, and you feed him for a day; teach him how to fish, and you feed him for a lifetime.” However, what happens if you do not need to teach a man a skill because he has all the skills he needed for thousands of years until modernity took away many of his possibilities to live off the land? Give a man a job he does not like, and there will be little success. However, if you give him the resources he needs to make his skills and knowledge useful again, you then have a sustainable model at hand.

Nanofasa provides San people with the opportunity to become qualified trackers, traditional teachers, guides, and botanists, then assist the Nanofasa research team in ensuring that their surrounding environment thrives. The San people have passed invaluable skills from generation to generation, and Nanofasa’s Barefoot Academy empowers individuals in their area of expertise.

aleksandra-san-woman — Two women from very different cultures connect ©Harald Pokeiser

namibia-team-project — The team at Nanofasa ©Nanofasa Conservation Trust

The moral of the story

The Ju/’Hoansi-San have shown me that nature needs people and that people need nature. Their intrinsic understanding of this symbiosis is why we decided to run Nanofasa based on a model where the San are responsible for leading the way to sustainability.

For real development to take place, we need to nurture, protect and preserve not only our natural environment and wildlife but also our people, their culture and customs. Local communities are the key to a sustainable future. Nanofasa wishes to assist in the battle against poverty and discrimination by facilitating projects that are initiated by the San communities, grounded in their participation and driven forward by the local people themselves.

We need to start working with communities and natural areas within Africa that have stories to tell – stories that will make outsiders want to contribute. We do not have to sell Africa and all its contents; we can tell its stories so that they can continue to be written for generations to come.

We can switch our phones to silent, rewild our perceptions and roar together as one. The tracks are already there, but we have to read them and choose which direction to take. And I choose to leave tracks alongside the San, with the hope of heading together towards a sustainable future.

Working towards a sustainable future with the San people ©Harald Pokeiser

Following in the footsteps of the San ©Louis Liebenberg

About the author

Aleksandra Ørbeck-Nilssen is a 26-year-old viking from Norway. She is the founder and CEO of Nanofasa Conservation Trust, and has a heart that is dedicated to Namibian communities and wildlife conservation.

After working many years as a model and actress at an international level in Paris and New York, Aleksandra chose to settle in Africa. She now works to protect the remaining wilderness in Namibia – the home of giant trees, endangered wildlife, and the ancient San tribe.

Zambian poaching crisis fuelled by Chinese military

Zambia’s elephant population has declined by about 90% due to poaching. Its black rhino population, estimated at 13,000 in 1981, is now extinct. Oscar Nkala visited the border town of Livingstone to find out what’s driving the poaching crisis. Written by: Oscar Nkala for Oxpeckers

An estimated 14 elephant tusks worth US$140,000 were found in two suitcases belonging to Colonel Oscar Chapula, then military adviser to the commander of the Zambian army, as the commander’s entourage prepared to fly out on a seven-day working visit to China on 29th May 2013.

Chapula was arrested, along with two unnamed Chinese embassy officials who reportedly claimed diplomatic immunity. They were released following interventions by authorities, including then defence minister Geoffrey Mwamba, army commander Brigadier General Paul Mihova, and the then Chinese ambassador to Zambia, Zhou Yuxiao, who deployed his military attaché to win back custody of the tusks, according to a report in the Zambian Watchdog.

“The latest [ivory] seizure and arrests at the Kenneth Kaunda International Airport involved some diplomats. We needed to get some clearance from the Ministry of Home Affairs for police to conduct interviews so that they can establish who the owner of the tusks was and where those tusks were going,” the then Zambian minister of tourism and arts, Sylvia Masebo, said on 12 June 2013 as she explained why the government had not opened an investigation into the incident.

That was the last official pronouncement on the case, and none of the Chinese embassy or Zambian army officials involved were ever prosecuted.

Army role in poaching

According to a Transparency International Government Defence Anti-Corruption Index report of February 2015, there is a “very high risk” of defence force corruption in Zambia.

The report probed for evidence of defence institutions having control or financial interests in businesses associated with natural resource exploitation, what the interests were, and whether they were publicly stated or subjected to scrutiny.

“Members of the Zambian army and police units, all suffering from income declines, possess the weapons and authority to support a great deal of illegal hunting activity,” it said.

“A report by the Zambia Wildlife Conservation Society found well-documented incidents of army personnel setting up roadblocks at game park entrances. Army vehicles, laden with meat and tusks, would be seen driving away later.

“Even if not directly poaching, soldiers and police have regularly allowed other Zambians to rent, purchase, or borrow official weapons and ammunition.

Game meat poaching — Slaughter scene: piles of game meat recovered from poachers in March 2016 ©Zambian Parks and Wildlife Authority

“There are also allegations of Chinese diplomats involved in cartels with rogue military officials in Zambia in exporting ivory to China. There is no evidence to suggest that the interests of defence and security institutions involved in illegal hunting are publicly declared and subject to public and parliamentary scrutiny,” the anti-graft watchdog concluded.

On 16 May this year, the Zambian Department of National Parks and Wildlife announced that Zambian Air Force captain Mwiya Masheke and flight sergeant Mutemwa Chripine had been detained, together with Namibian national Nefuma Taleni Stefanus and Zambian businessman Martin Maimba, in connection with the illegal possession of rhino horns weighing 3.9kg.

The four were arrested by police acting on a tip-off while they were allegedly selling the ivory to the businessman at a shopping mall in Chawama township, Lusaka. They were remanded in custody after appearing in court on charges of violating the Zambia Wildlife Act.

Poaching – an organised crime

Earlier this year, Deputy Tourism Minister Patrick Ngoma told a regional wildlife conference in Victoria Falls that Chinese ivory trafficking syndicates were responsible for hiring Zambians to poach elephants and rhinos in Zimbabwe, Botswana, Angola and Namibia.

Ngoma pointed out that, despite some improvements in counter-poaching initiatives, Zambia is struggling to contain the internal poaching crisis, which has led to the extinction of the country’s black rhinos over the past decades.

Asked to comment on whether the government had found evidence of Zambian army involvement in poaching, Ngoma said it would be unfair to label the army as an institutional driver of the poaching crisis, although some soldiers had been found to be involved in ivory poaching and trafficking.

“In Zambia, we have poaching syndicates made up of locals, some of them in the army, and yes, some Chinese as well as Zimbabwean, Malawian, Tanzanian, Namibian and Congolese [Democratic Republic of Congo] nationals,” he said.

“In cases where soldiers are arrested, they face the same criminal justice system as everybody else. We are not looking at apportioning blame, but rather we want to stop poaching regardless of whether the perpetrators are soldiers, civilians or foreigners.”

The army’s public relations officer, Lieutenant Colonel Luwespo Sinyinza, told Oxpeckers that, like in every other army in the world, there are rogue soldiers who commit crimes while serving. However, he said the activities of a few “rogues” should not be used to create the impression that the army as an institution is involved in poaching.

“The Zambian army, like all other professional institutions, has to deal with rogue soldiers who commit crimes from time to time. We always let the law deal with the criminals as individuals. We, therefore, do not understand why the media and other organisations should use isolated incidents to paint the army as a poaching institution,” Sinyinza said.

He declined to comment on whether there had been any follow-ups to the 2013 ivory seizure at Kenneth Kaunda International Airport involving Chapula and two Chinese embassy officers. Efforts to contact former defence minister Mwamba were unsuccessful.

Multiple drivers

Conservation bodies estimate Zambia has lost more than 144,000 elephants to poaching in the past 30 years. According to the International Union for the Conservation of Nature, the country’s elephant population has declined by 90%, from an estimated 160,000 in 1981 to just over 16,000 in 2015.

The black rhino population, estimated at 13,000 in 1981, has been depleted to extinction by poachers. Only a small population of white rhinos remains in national parks.

The Zambian government’s attempts to contain the multiple drivers of the poaching crisis have failed since the extinction of the black rhino in 1984, said a report published by the American University (Washington DC) in February 2015.

“Faced with the extinction of the black rhino and the decimation of the elephant, the Zambian government initiated several wildlife conservation policies, including cross-border agreements with Zimbabwe and other countries where rhino and elephant poaching is common, aimed at reducing the amount of rhino and elephant poaching,” it said. “But these conservation efforts have had little long-term impacts as many Zambian poachers have crossed the border to neighbouring Zimbabwe to continue poaching.

“Other problems – such as a weak economy, limited resources for wildlife preservation, competition with local farmers for land, the politics of wildlife legislation and a very lucrative global market in ivory – have made it very difficult for the Zambian government to protect its rhino and elephant populations.”

The current Tourism and Arts Minister, Jean Kapata, said the government was concerned about the emergence of poaching syndicates, which have resorted to the use of poisons to kill elephants in large numbers.

“Of late, we are more concerned about the use of poisons to kill animals, especially elephants and hyenas, vultures and other collateral poaching targets. These poaching syndicates remain a threat to all the gains we have achieved working together over the last 30 years,” Kapata said at an event held on 22 March 2016 to commemorate 30 years of working with the Frankfurt Zoological Society on elephant conservation initiatives through the North Luangwa (National Park) Conservation Programme.

Chinese-Zambian army relationship

Military relations between China and Zambia have blossomed, with the sale of aircraft, small arms and, more recently, patrol boats to equip the new Zambia Army Marine Commando force, which was set up to patrol the country’s lakes and rivers last August.

Three months after the May 2013 arrest of the Chinese diplomats and the seizure of the elephant tusks, Chinese ambassador Zhou Yuxiao announced the signing of a US$8-million agreement on the sale of military equipment to Zambia.

The deal also covered the secondment of 11 Chinese doctors to Zambian army hospitals, as well as the rehabilitation of military hospitals in the towns of Ndola and Maina Soko.

In April 2014, the two countries capped their relationship with a Zambian air force order of six Chinese jets worth US$100-million. The first aircraft was due to be delivered to Zambia within the first half of 2016.

Ambassador Zhou Yuxiao left Zambia in July 2014, and was replaced by the current ambassador, Yang Youming.

He did not respond to questions emailed to him by Oxpeckers, as advised by an embassy official. Oxpeckers was also unable to get a response from the Chinese chancellory, an annex of the embassy in Lusaka.

Pack of rogue domestic dogs chase animals in Kruger

A pack of nine domestic dogs were spotted recently on the S3 near the Kruger National Park (KNP) by Samuel Breisacher and his uncle Daniel Waldis. The dogs were chasing a jackal. Source: Lowvelder

Breisacher said these dogs might have crossed over into the KNP from the Cork community. They crossed the dry Sabie River into the park. The sighting was reported to rangers that Breisacher luckily bumped into on the S3.

“I could see the rangers were shocked and worried. They immediately radioed for help and left in a hurry,” he said. “‘I have never seen anything like this. The dogs were very focused and showed the same behaviour as wild dogs. It is not good at all that they were in the park because they might have diseases and pass that on to the other animals, especially the wild dogs,” said Breisacher.

Breisacher is a chocolatier from Stellenbosch and his main chocolate brand, Le Chocolatier, is sold in the retail outlets in the camps so he frequents the KNP often. He is a dedicated conservationist. One of his other chocolate brands, Big 5, is designed to further the cause of saving endangered rhinos. A portion of the profit goes towards Unite Against Poaching.

Dr Kelly Marnewick, manager of Endangered Wildlife Trust’s Carnivore Conservation Programme, is currently busy with Grant Beverley, field officer for the EWT’s Kruger Park Wild Dog Project. They are darting and inoculating wild dogs in the KNP against distemper and other diseases. She said there is a danger of passing diseases on if dogs like these come into contact with wild dogs during a fight.

Since May seven packs of wild dogs have been vaccinated. It is estimated by Marnewick that there are only 300 of them left in the KNP, and only 500 in South Africa.

“It is difficult to say if these dogs would be able to reach the wild dogs, but it is a real risk if they do get to a pack that has not been vaccinated,” said Marnewick.

As recently as 13 May 2016 a pack of wild dogs was found dead with distemper, a dog disease caused by a virus found in domestic canines. The virus had wiped out the pack within 48 hours of it being detected, indicating an incredibly vicious strain.

Canine distemper quickly attacks the nervous system and causes discharge from the eyes and nose, excessive diarrhoea, lung damage, vomiting and eventual death.

There was an outcry on Facebook when Breisacher mentioned his sighting. Regular Kruger visitors stated that the dogs belong to poachers, who use them in packs to hunt down animals in the areas around their communities for subsistence living and to sell to bush butcheries.

Mr Wiliam Mabasa, acting head of communications at SANParks, said the dogs will be put down if they are found in the park. “The danger remains that rabies could be passed on to other animals if these dogs are disease-ridden.”

A dog with rabies was recently put down in White River by the SPCA. White River is about an hour’s drive from the community that Breisacher thinks the dogs hailed from.

Taking a safari to new levels

Africa Geographic organised for our safari to start in Zimbabwe with a visit to Hwange National Park at the wonderful Camp Hwange. Located in a beautiful open area of the park, Camp Hwange overlooks a pan that constantly attracts elephants, zebras, impalas, sables, and warthogs. The hosts, the guides and the food were all exceptional, and we enjoyed both game drives and walking safaris. Written by: Justin Mason

There were many highlights of the trip – approaching a huge bull elephant on foot and tracking a lioness through the bush, only to be warned off by a growl, were just a couple of these. The game viewing was terrific every single day, and we enjoyed several amazing lion encounters and a very special encounter with African wild dogs.

After Hwange, we travelled by road to Botswana where we met up with other AG guests and our brilliant guides Francois and Alex. Suffice it to say we had a week full of laughs and incredible game viewing. Based at an excellent campsite, we explored the stunning and harsh landscape of the Savute in Chobe National Park.

The trip’s predator theme lived up to its name and we enjoyed exceptional sightings and photographic opportunities of the elusive leopard, as well as lions and hyenas on many occasions, and we also spotted Savuti’s wild dogs. Elephants drinking in a dust storm, the exceptional birdlife, baobabs at sunset, and the diversity of game were all very special highlights. Each evening we sat around the campfire and listened to the resident leopard roaring as she circled the camp, while we photographed the beautiful owls that visited the site.

We eventually had to bid a fond farewell to our group and headed back to Zimbabwe to finish our trip at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge and the famous ‘smoke that thunders’. AG was spot-on once more and we cannot more highly recommend this fun and friendly hotel, its gorgeous views, busy waterhole, terrific rooms, delicious food and extensive range of activities.

Witnessing firsthand the Victoria Falls was not only magnificent but a thoroughly enjoyable and awe-inspiring experience, as was canoeing and fishing on the wonderful Zambezi River, while dodging hippos and crocodiles and watching a variety of game coming down to drink. Christian from AG recommended that we visit Siduli Hide on our final morning on safari in Vic Falls, and indeed it was a fascinating and fun end to a trip not to be missed.

Thank you Africa Geographic! Zimbabwe and Botswana – we will be back!

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A photographic bonanza of predators in Savuti

Written by: Francois van Heerden (guide)

I had the pleasure of guiding Africa Geographic guests on a photographic trip to search for predators in Savute – Chobe National Park, Botswana. Here are some images and feedback from the trip.

When we arrived in Kasane and saw warthogs running down the main road through town, we knew this was going to be an experience we would all remember!

After settling in and meeting all participants on our first afternoon, we set off on a leisurely boat cruise down the Chobe River. We were soon elated to watch herds of elephant and buffalo crowding on the river banks to quench their thirst. Pods of hippo snorted and sprayed as we floated by, and massive crocodiles that were basking on the banks watched us carefully as we approached and left them behind.

Few treats beat a Photographic cruise on the Chobe like the one that awaited us on the first day © Joe Knapman — Few treats beat a photographic cruise on the Chobe like the one that awaited us on the first day ©Joe Knapman

Early the next morning we set off for Savuti, taking in the sights along the way and stopping for a packed lunch in the middle of nowhere. Upon arrival at our private campsite, we were excited to note that we were superbly positioned next to the Savuti Channel. The excitement was palpable as everyone realised what an idyllic and productive base this would be from which to explore this surreal wilderness. Our first drive served as an excellent taste of what was to come, as we saw two leopards with a kill up a big old camel thorn tree!

Kickstarting the safari in style by seeing a leopard in a camelthorn tree. ©Francois van Heerden — Kickstarting the safari in style by seeing a leopard in a camelthorn tree ©Francois van Heerden

The evenings in camp were accompanied by an orchestra of sounds as the bush came alive around us with smaller predators calling incessantly. The barred owl, the white-faced scops owl, the pearl-spotted owl and the African scops owls even modelled for the odd photo shoot! Every single night we heard the territorial calls of lions and leopards around camp, and a leopard strolled through camp twice in plain sight, without a care in the world. We were also visited by an endearing honey badger one evening after dinner!

An Africa barred owl warming up for its crepuscular serenade ©Sarah Drake — An African barred-owl warming up for its crepuscular serenade ©Sarah Drake

Dinner was, without exception, simply amazing! The camp staff provided excellent bush cooked meals, including an utterly decadent chocolate cake cooked in a pan over the open fire. The staff, guides and cooks at our exclusive mobile tented camp did an awesome job, seamlessly keeping the mood upbeat and the element of surprise alive. There is not enough praise to commend their efforts in making us feel simultaneously at home and pampered whilst in the bush – they truly re-defined ‘glamping’.

Glamping ©Justin Mason — Camping in style in Savuti ©Justin Mason

Every drive had its highlight but the first morning set the tone for the rest of the trip, as a big sandstorm gave us the unusual photographic opportunity to watch and photograph several bull elephants drinking against an eerie, ghostly white backdrop.

Elephant drinking ©Francois Van Heerden — An elephant drinking ©Francois Van Heerden

We managed to locate lions on almost every drive and it was such a pleasure to photograph the well-known Savuti Marsh Pride. Years ago when the Savuti Channel dried up, this pride survived against the odds by learning to take down elephants, as game was hard to come by with such little water available.

Lioness on the prowl ©Joe Knapmann — A lioness on the prowl ©Joe Knapman

The harshness of Savuti cannot be easily explained, it has to be experienced. Fortunately for the lions and the elephants, the channel started flowing again and the general game returned to the area, providing the predators with easier hunting opportunities.

After an awesome week of fantastic sightings around every corner – we managed to see spotted hyenas on a few occasions and even endangered African wild dogs – the only thing we were missing was a sighting of one the area’s iconic male lions. And, as if on cue, on the last morning drive before we had to head back to Kasane, we were spoilt with two of the dominant male Marsh Pride lions feasting on a buffalo that had been hunted the night before. Watching these two kings was just a perfect send-off and we could not have asked for a better grand finale.

Early morning rambler ©Joe Knapmann — An early morning rambler ©Joe Knapman

A royal whisker licking treat ©Justin Mason — A royal whisker-licking treat ©Justin Mason

All in all, it was a truly memorable trip for many reasons, but most particularly thanks to the passionate, dedicated and enthusiastic group of people who I can today call friends. It was the perfect combination of guests with a great sense of humour and a seasoned understanding of the bush, and great support staff and facilities, as well as endless photographic opportunities to extend portfolios.

The Savute team ©Peter Sandyford — The Savuti team ©Peter Sandyford

And in case you needed any more convincing, here’s what some of our guests had to say:

“This trip lived up to its name and we enjoyed exceptional sightings and photographic opportunities, including the elusive leopard as well as lion and hyena on many occasions. We even spotted the Savuti wild dogs. Elephants drinking in a dust storm, the exceptional birdlife, baobabs at sunset and the diversity of game were all very special highlights. Each evening we sat around the campfire and listened to the resident leopard roaring as she circled the camp, stunning and never to be forgotten, and in between we photographed the beautiful owls that visited.” – Justin Mason, UK

“There is an energy and heartbeat in Savuti unlike anything else I’ve ever experienced. The cherry on the top was meeting the incredible individuals that were on the trip. Francois is an incredible guide, photographer and friend, and Alex too was such a star. As for the crazy twitchers and photographers – what a fabulous group! By far my best trip in Africa; it topped the Serengeti by a good margin!” – Sarah Drake, RSA

“Along with the spectacular landscapes and the best of Africa’s sunrises and sunsets, the abundance of birds and other mammals made this a truly spectacular and amazing safari – without doubt one my best experiences to date. The camp was about as wild as it comes, with nightly calls from hyenas, leopards and lions, and in a couple of instances a leopard walked straight past the camp. A honey badger scurried around the back of the tents one evening to our delight. Daily doses of huge elephant bulls at the waterholes, and warthogs and wildebeest kept us amused and provided great photo opportunities. A perfect photographic safari, and one of the most amazing learning experiences I have had so far.” – Joe Knapman, UK

“I arrived back from this incredible adventure yesterday, and I am still struggling to process what I experienced. Firstly, the camp and staff were all superb. How those guys managed to feed us delicious three-course meals cooked on a fire in a cast iron pot is just beyond belief. Getting a chocolate cake cooked in a pan on the fire was just amazing! Alex, our guide, was the best possible guide. He was so tuned in to Francois’ needs as a photographer. He was fun, knowledgeable and mindful at all times. A TOP CLASS guide indeed! Francois, I consider my friend now. I purposely have not gone on any other photographic safaris with other guides because he is a hard act to follow. There are not enough superlatives to describe his guiding, teaching and photographic skills.” – Karen Van Rensburg, RSA

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USA bans trophy imports of captive South African lions

The United States government has again tightened regulations regarding the importation into the USA of lion trophies, this time focusing on populations of captive lions in South Africa

US Fish and Wildlife Service (USFW) director Dan Ash recently published background to this announcement in The Huffington Post. For those who prefer a very brief summary, I have extracted the salient points. For the complete picture please read the entire announcement.

1. Scientifically sound conservation programmes (including the trophy hunting of wild lions) can significantly contribute to the long-term survival of lions. U.S. hunters make up a disproportionately large share of foreign hunters who book trophy hunts in Africa, and their participation in well-managed hunting programmes can help advance the conservation benefits provided by such programmes.

2. Earlier in 2016 USFW introduced a new permitting system to regulate the import of live lions, lion trophies and other parts – the primary aim being as an incentive for lion range countries to work towards sustainable, scientifically-sound management strategies, including hunting.

3. Beginning as of 20 October 2016, the United States has effectively banned the import of lion trophies taken from captive lion populations in South Africa.

4. In order to permit the import into the USA of lion trophies, exporting nations like South Africa must provide clear evidence of a demonstrable conservation benefit to the long-term survival of the species in the wild. In the case of lions taken from captive populations in South Africa, that burden of proof has not been met.

5. If and when such benefits can be clearly shown, UFWS may reevaluate their position.

6. The vast majority of lion trophies imported into the United States in recent years has been from these captive populations in South Africa, so this decision will likely substantially reduce the total number of lion trophy imports.

7. USFW will allow the import of wild or wild-managed lion trophies from South Africa, largely due to effective management by South Africa’s Ministry of Environmental Affairs.

Dan Ash concludes as follows: “Let me be clear – we cannot and will not allow trophies into the United States from any nation whose lion conservation programme fails to meet key criteria for transparency, scientific management and effectiveness… But it’s important to understand that lions are not in trouble because of responsible sport hunting.”

The Magic of Zanzibar

East Africa has an irrepressible allure, and I’ve become addicted to its vibrant kangas (patterned fabric), its friendly people and its crystal clear waters. So, to get my next Kiswahili fix, we headed to Unguja Island – more commonly known as Zanzibar – which is just a two-hour ferry ride from the Tanzanian coastal capital of Dar es Salaam, or a direct flight from many African cities.

Thanks to its close proximity and budget airline options, the largest island in the Zanzibar Archipelago is an easily accessible and relatively affordable idyll where South African residents with itchy feet can spend their crashing currency. And with a week’s prescription of sun, sea, sand and Stone Town tucked between the pages of my passport, a holiday in Zanzibar proved to be just what the doctor ordered to take the edge off my East African cravings.

Find out about Zanzibar for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.

jetty-zanzi-resort — The Vision of Freedom jetty was erected in 2015 in Kama and is considered to be one of the best places to watch dolphins in Zanzibar ©Zanzi Resort

Not all who wander are lost

Our first stop was Stone Town – the historical part of Zanzibar City and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which lies 10 minutes from the international airport on a western headland that protrudes into the Indian Ocean.

Stone Town has all the accoutrements of a magician, whereby the distractions of noise and charm mask its subtle changes to amaze and astound the amateur. It is a hypnotist by whose acquaintance you allow yourself to be harmlessly deceived as you wander beguiled under its spell; submitting to its whims at every indiscernible turn.

Its smoke and mirrors are a labyrinth of coralline ragstone and mangrove timber architecture, and its urban fabric tells the tale of the town’s former life as a Swahili trading port. The now crumbling buildings were once moulded under the influence of disparate cultures from Asia to Europe, and its notorious history as East Africa’s primary slave market remains imprisoned in the foundations.

Its bells and whistles are the elaborately hand-carved doors that are hewn along the narrow walkways, the spice shops that pepper the alleyways, the smell of incense that permeates the clothes drying on verandas. A stolen glance into an interior courtyard offers an intimate hint of a different life. Each lane is in an active state of dissolution, disappearing seamlessly around every corner before it has barely come into being. At first, I felt this disorienting, but when I surrendered to the colours and the calls to prayer, I found myself smoothly absorbed into the town’s creases; another laughter line on its wrinkled face.

For me, the smells, sights and sounds were as heart-warmingly familiar as a box of Quality Streets at Christmas, and our first day of aimless exploration summoned countless recollections from previous travels. However, it was the convergence of this diverse range of memories that took me by surprise. How magical it was to be reminded of wandering down a cobbled lane in Italy at one turn, then looking up at a wooden balcony reminiscent of Nepal at the next.

stone-town-photo-frames — Handmade frames on display outside a wood carving workshop in Stone Town ©David Capes-Winch

stone-town-double-door — An elaborately-carved double door that is so synonymous with Zanzibar ©David Capes-Winch

spices-darajani-market — Selling spices in Darajani Market ©David Capes-Winch

After a few hours of ambling, we found ourselves dodging the tentacles of octopus and salesmen at Darajani Market, which was nothing fancy but all compelling. Following some serious deliberation on whether we should buy coffee beans or vanilla pods, we settled on a bag of saffron. It seemed appropriate and, although neither of us has any idea how to cook with it, the little threads of red conjure the memory of our meandering in a way that a cappuccino never could.

At the end of a day spent enjoying being lost, our tired feet stumbled past House of Wonders – the first building in East Africa to have electricity and an elevator, and then upon Forodhani Night Market, where we gorged on Zanzibar pizzas and nyama choma (barbecued meat) and drank out of coconuts by the sea until it was time to allow our senses to unwind.

As much as we had enjoyed being schedule-free for a brief interlude, we started the next day with a purpose. Full of (Zanzibari coffee) beans, we jumped on a boat with Colors of Zanzibar to visit the old quarantine station and the giant Aldabra tortoise colony on Prison Island. This endangered species was given as a gift from the Seychelles government in the 19th century, and it was astounding to be in the presence of these testudinal relics – one of which was 158 years old!

While snorkelling in the clear waters around the island at the end of our tour, we manoeuvred through harmless jellyfish. We were amazed to be in such a peaceful and pristine environment while so close to the bustle and dilapidation of Stone Town. Our sneak peek of the marine world also gave us a thirst for more water-based activities, and thus, after a late seafood lunch back in town, we set off on an intoxicatingly beautiful dhow sunset cruise with Zama Tours.

As we sailed past the architectural wonders along the shoreline and watched the sun set over fishermen diving into the waters of the Indian Ocean, we ate spicy cassava chips. At the same time, the sky turned pink and counted the stars as another day came to a close in magical Zanzibar.

prison-island-tortoises — A 158-year-old giant tortoise in the sanctuary (left); The beach and pier of Prison Island on a tour with Colors of Zanzibar (right) ©David Capes-Winch

dhow-sunset-cruise-stone-town — Photos taken from a dhow sunset cruise with Zama Tours (left and top right); The House of Wonder (bottom right) ©David Capes-Winch

Sun of a Beach

My husband and I share one thing in common – a mutual horror for inclement weather. We are partners in a quest for sunshine, and Zanzibar was our light at the end of the tunnel after surviving another winter in Cape Town. So, with little more than a yearning for vitamin D and crayfish, we bid a fond farewell to Stone Town and headed off to explore the beaches for the rest of our break.

Over the next few days, we travelled from the cliffs of Kama along the west coast to Michamwe-Pingwe in the east, before heading down to Menai Bay in the southwest of the island. Our little circuit made it clear that, although only 85 kilometres in length, the diversity of places to lay your beach towel in Zanzibar is immense, and every nook and cranny has something unique to offer.

From rocky shores with private jetties to beautiful stretches of white sand beaches, it’s fascinating how many sides there are to the Spice Island. Even the same area can change dramatically at different times of day, depending on the tide or weather. There is also a range of activities to spice up your days – from swimming with dolphins or walking in the mangrove forest, to scuba diving or joining a spice village tour with a cooking lesson. As a result, you can relax, safe in the knowledge that your days by the ocean will be sure to make a splash.

zanzibar-paje-viva-africa-tours — Catch up on some R&R on Paje Beach ©Viva Africa Tours

pina-colada-zanzibar — If you like cocktails, then head to Fumba Beach Lodge for that island feeling ©David Capes-Winch

Zanzibar — Soak up the delights of Machamwe-Pingwe Beach by staying at Boutique Hotel Matlai ©David Capes-Winch

Where to stay in Stone Town

Check out our preferred camps & lodges for the best prices, browse our famous packages for experience-based safaris and search for our current special offers.

Zanzibar Palace Hotel provides the perfect launchpad for a stay in Stone Town. And the climb to the Dunia Honeymoon Suite on the top floor is particularly worth the lactic acid build-up. Feeling like Rapunzel in her tower, but surrounded by antique Zanzibari furniture, this suite offers a fantastic view over Stone Town, and a further short flight up to the ensuite bathroom provides a loo with a view and loungers to soak it all up from.

For those on a budget, Warere Town House is a great option that lies near the ferry terminal. Basic but clean and comfortable, beautiful fabric designs and other Zanzibari decorative touches make it a welcoming place to lay your head. Its rooftop restaurant – where you can start the day with a breakfast of champions – also offers a great lookout over the town.

House of Spices doubles up on the goods. Not only is it a centrally located hotel, making it a convenient base from which to explore Stone Town’s alleys, but it is also one of the town’s most reputable restaurants. Something of a local icon, House of Spices provides a fantastic fusion of Italian and Zanzibari cuisine, thanks to its Modena-born owner and local chefs. Spices are woven into the variety of dishes in a delectable manner that will help you to understand how the Spice Island got its name. Book your stay through Adventure Camps Tanzania and don’t miss out on the chilli chocolate mousse for dessert!

Where to stay by the beach

Check out our preferred camps & lodges for the best prices, browse our famous packages for experience-based safaris and search for our current special offers.

People often rave about the resorts along the north coast of Zanzibar, which do most certainly offer the R&R that many require. However, if you venture off the beaten beach to some more secluded coves, there is plenty of fantastic accommodation available.

From beach huts and private villas to luxury boutiques and first-class resorts, there is something for everyone in Zanzibar. And it’s well worth taking a break from bronzing to explore the shoreline – both above and below the water.

Zanzi Resort offers privacy and luxury in a tropical setting on the west coast of the island. From the moment you enter the grounds and drink your welcome coconut, you know it’s time to kick back and relax. A luxury villa with a private pool is the way forward here, especially if you’re looking for some one-on-one time with your nearest and dearest.

Everything has been considered to make you feel at home – from television with DVDs, to a mini-library; and the service is impeccable. Once a week for dinner, a communal barbecue and live music is organised, so you can feast on crayfish and steak, while bush babies pop in to see what’s going on before you take to the dancefloor.

Located along the same stretch as the famous Rock Restaurant, Boutique Hotel Matlai offers an intimate experience along the stunning stretch of Michamwe-Pingwe. With just six bedrooms across two buildings – Asili House and Villa Kidosho – guests are provided with a butler service that makes this a genuinely personable experience. You can expect to wake up in a king-sized four-poster bed to see the sunrise before your eyes and enjoy a romantic dinner on the privacy of your balcony in the evening. Still, the hotel’s most impressive feature is arguably its swimming pool. Fit for a movie set, its dramatic curvatures jut out to the beach and make for the perfect place to dream while resting on a floating beanbag. Except you don’t have to imagine because this could be your reality!

If you love scuba diving or are interested in joining the Safari Blue tour, Fumba Beach Lodge is an excellent place from which to explore the Menai Bay Conservation Area. A haven for flipper fiends, you can expect your days to be filled with dolphins, islands, sandbanks, and coral reefs, before you return to the lodge to read a good book in your hammock, surrounded by monkeys. An endemic Zanzibar colobus monkey has also recently been spotted here for the first time!

What to know

Zanzibar is a predominantly Islamic island, which makes for a beautifully rich culture. Expect five calls to prayer a day, beef bacon for breakfast, and most women – even girls from a young age – to be wearing a hijab. It’s unlikely that anybody will take offence at any scantily-clad tourists. Still, it’s always nice to be considerate by covering up your wobbly bits and being respectful in how you dress.

It’s no easy feat to get around the island unless you hire a taxi. Some roads aren’t fantastic, and police officers are out to pocket a few pennies so will happily detain anyone on false premises, such as not having a valid driving licence if you hire a car or motorbike. Even though you may escape unscathed from any run-ins, they can still put a dampener on your day and waste a lot of precious tanning time. So if you don’t fancy sweating over petty injustices, it’s worth splashing the cash and jumping in a taxi. Also, consider staying in just one beach spot to save wasting time and dollars on the road.

Zanzibar is still a low-risk malaria area, so consult your travel clinic before you leave and make the decision that feels best for you. If you do decide to forego antimalarials, cover up in the evenings and consider travelling in cooler periods. We visited in late August during the winter season, and an upside to it being a bit nippy was that we didn’t get bitten once!

Visa requirements

As a British citizen living in South Africa, visas are the bane of my present-day existence. But for once, a visa didn’t require the promise of my firstborn and my inside leg measurements. South Africans have the good fortune of being able to waltz into Zanzibar for free on their Green Mamba, but thankfully most Europeans don’t have it too much harder.

It is recommended that visas be obtained at the nearest Tanzanian High Commission before departure, but living in Cape Town makes this no easy feat, so I opted to pay my US$50 and present my yellow fever certificate on arrival, which secured my single-entry visa to paradise before I could say jambo (hello).

stone-town-beach-zanzibar — The bustle of the beach in Stone Town ©David Capes-Winch

About the author

MEI CAPES-WINCH is half-Chinese, born in England, and South African at heart. She received a BA Joint Honours in French and German from the University of Warwick before spending a decade bumbling around Europe, Asia, Australia and Central America, then settling in Cape Town.

Tired of pretending to be a grown-up, she takes every opportunity she can to explore her new home continent, accompanied by her canine best friend and her husband, who lovingly goes to great lengths to stop her whinging about being bored.

4 must-visit Nairobi museums

Nairobi is Kenya’s principal economic, administrative and cultural centre, with a vibrant culture, fabulous restaurants and exciting nightlife. But the rich cultural heritage, as displayed in these three Nairobi museums, is also another fascinating aspect of the city.

So if you are on a visit to Kenya’s capital city and looking to venture out of your hotel for a few hours or so, here’s a list of four amazing Nairobi museums within the city CBD that will definitely be worth your while.

These museums provide evidence of the city’s historical significance and also the cultural richness of Kenya and Nairobi in particular.

The Nairobi National Museum

The Nairobi National Museum is situated on Museum Hill road, five to ten minutes away from the CBD and accessible both by public and private means. It is the perfect one-stop for visitors, presenting them with Kenya’s rich history, nature, culture and contemporary art.

Nairobi museums — ©Nairobi National Museum

The museum houses an extensive ornithological collection representing most of Kenya’s thousand-odd species of birds. The Geology Gallery contains a great deal of interesting information on plate tectonics and the life cycle of volcanoes, which is particularly relevant to the Rift Valley regions. The Gallery of Contemporary East African Art is an exhibition area where artists from East Africa display their artwork. The Prehistoric Gallery houses the palaeontology exhibits, highlighting the East African region as the cradle of mankind.

Also within the grounds are the famous snake park, botanical gardens and nature trail. Not forgetting an excellent cafe that serves some of the best coffee in Nairobi and hosts occasional performances too.

The Nairobi Railway Museum

Nairobi, and to an extent the nation of Kenya, owe their very existence to the Uganda Railway. The outcome of the railway is aptly described by Sir Charles Elliot, a senior British official at the time, with the words, “It is not uncommon for a country to create a railway, but it is uncommon for a railway to create a country.”

The construction of the railway linking the East African coast to Uganda at the beginning of the 20th Century is a story of grand vision, tragedy, and triumph over enormous odds in the quest to effectively administer the British Protectorate of Uganda and control the source of the River Nile. The railway achieved notoriety in the 1900s when ‘the man-eaters of Tsavo’, a pair of rogue man-eating lions, preyed gruesomely on numerous railway construction workers at a section of what is now the Tsavo National Park. The railway took five and a half years from 1886 to 1901 to be completed. The construction took a heavy human toll, a total of 2,493 lives, 38 per month, or five people for every 2km were lost.

The Nairobi Railway Museum has a collection of photographs from the above period, including historical pictures of Nairobi from its infancy, and images of other occurrences and milestones during the railway construction. Numerous artefacts from the early years of the railway operation are also on display. The museum also has a yard with exhibits of the different steam engine locomotives used on the railway system from 1898 when the first train set off on its maiden voyage from Mombasa. One of these, the 59 or ‘Mountain’ class locomotive weighs 254 tons and is reputed to have been the most powerful metre-gauge locomotive ever built, capable of moving 1,200-ton trains in one trip. Another one is the carriage in which Charles Ryall was sleeping in 1900 when a lion seized him through the window, broke his neck and dragged him to his death. Other exhibits include a sample water crane similar to those used at various water stops and stations along the railway line.

Situated off the Uhuru highway close to the CBD, the Nairobi Railway Museum is an informative and engaging destination that should not be missed.

The Kenya National Archives

A repository of some of Kenya’s most significant cultural, political, social, and academic history, The Kenya National Archives is situated on Moi Avenue in the Central Business District, a stone’s throw away from the Nairobi Hilton Hotel.

One of the major attractions in the archives is the arts and crafts collection of the Late Joseph Murumbi, a former vice-president of Kenya. The collection consists of an array of traditional tools and artefacts from different parts of the African continent. The collection includes drums, weaponry, cowbells, traditional attire, tapestry, furniture and cooking implements among others. Notable in the collection is a variety of traditional African sculptures whose aesthetic became a powerful influence and inspiration to the world’s most celebrated artists such as Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse and Amedeo Modigliani.

The Kenya National Archives leads in the preservation of Kenya’s heritage and history. You also get to see the rich diversity of cultures in Kenya, with its 42 ethnic groups’ history, traditional artefacts and utilities on display. Records, reports, and diaries of the Church Missionary Society (CMS) dating back to the 17th century are among millions of rare and unique publications under the custody of the Kenya National Archives.

Every October, the Kenya National Archives holds a Heritage Week, during which members of the public are allowed access for free – a push towards helping more people discover its records and books, among other cultural documents. Use that as a reason to visit these three Nairobi museums.

The Karen Blixen Museum

Set in the serene suburb of Nairobi, the Karen Blixen Museum provides the most comprehensive insight into this remarkable woman who was made famous by the movie ‘Out of Africa’ about her life in Kenya.

The Museum is located in a tranquil garden and indigenous forest, with a splendid view of Karen’s beloved Ngong Hills. The well-maintained gardens offer a wonderful setting for weddings and corporate events. A museum shop offers many souvenirs, including handicrafts, posters and postcards, the Movie ‘Out of Africa’, books and other mementoes.

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Behind the scenes of an elephant relocation

I kneel in the dust beside the fallen elephant as if seeking absolution in a cathedral… the cathedral in this case is a forlorn and brittle circle of desiccated mopane bush in the Limpopo Valley. The capture team descend on the sleeping giant and begin their ministrations with quiet precision, while chainsaws carve a track for the flatbed truck. Written by: Andrew Rae

elephant-relocation-mapesu — ©Skyhawk Photography

This prone elephant bull stirs my recollection of another time in another park when these magnificent, sentient creatures were killed to control their impact on the landscape. I remember the smell of cordite and blood mingling in the warm Lowveld air as carcasses were loaded and a chopper arced overhead with a clatter of blades like some glistening angel of death.

This time will be very different as the bull I kneel beside forms part of a small herd of seven elephant set aside for relocation to Mapesu – a private nature reserve established by The Shared Universe Foundation to protect and expand the rangeland of these mighty denizens of the African wilderness.

It is a monumental undertaking, requiring an army of well-trained personnel and specialised vehicles and equipment. Trucks and capture containment are first positioned close to where the elephants are ahead of the capture. This takes hours of ponderous manoeuvring before things are finally set and ready. The chopper chases and corrals the herd as a wildlife vet fires darts dosed with a powerful opiate known as M99. The animals mill around the first of the fallen, the matriarch, and are easily dispatched close by. The young adult bull succumbs a few hundred metres further away. Bush is carved open and flatbed lorries with huge hydraulic cranes attached are moved into position alongside the slumbering pachyderms.

A radio and GPS tracking collar is attached to the lead cow, while I hold my hand near the opening to her trunk monitoring her deep and laborious breathing. Like titanic, wrinkle-covered bellows, her flanks rise and fall in a rhythm as old as the dust coating her, and tears blur my vision as a deep melancholy overwhelms me… she exhales and her tepid breath stirs the hair on my forearm. It is a moment with an ancient creature of the veld that I will never forget.

elephant-relocation-lowveld — ©Skyhawk Photography

It is truly momentous releasing wildlife back into areas they once occupied historically. It is the act of completing something monumental, something grand. It is finishing a complex tapestry that for more than a century has been but an anaemic, unfinished version of the original. It is placing that which has been missing back where it belongs.

The long container truck came lumbering over the ridge – a clanking, dust-shrouded juggernaut. A crowd of us gather on the fence-line behind a shade cloth barrier while photographers clamber on top of the truck to capture images of the occasion. The sun begins a fiery descent into the heat haze along the western horizon and shadows lengthen and the light softens into that pre-dusk glow that so many before me have tried to describe. The scene is set, the elephants are finally here.

elephant-relocation — ©Skyhawk Photography

Steel barriers slide open and we all hold our breath. Nothing stirs on the tepid Limpopo breeze except for the distant, languid call of a hornbill. The container stands open like some dark, cavernous maw, and then it happens – a three to four-year-old male elephant calf saunters out into the open and down the concrete ramp – ears flared and trunk aloft, testing the air. This followed by an adult cow and her female calf, and then the collared matriarch with her new female calf and another sub-adult cow and finally the young adult bull. They gather together, tenuous, guarded, unsure of how to proceed.

I watch as camera shutters fire staccato bursts and a video drone buzzes overhead. I watch them, these new arrivals back in this valley after more than a century of absence and I feel inexplicably alive. I rejoice. I revel in this sensation of completion, of hope for a species that still defies our understanding; this giant so intelligent, so incredibly representative of this wondrous continent. I think of our entwined history together… humankind and elephants, and how full of conflict and carnage it has been. I ponder how elephants must perceive us as we expand our population and consume like ravenous insects – insatiable, uncaring, deadly.

I also perceive hope. Having been privy to the culling in the nineties and now the infinite hunger for ivory in Asia that is decimating the great lumbering herds of East and West Africa and reducing the continent’s population by more than 100,000 in less than a decade.

I have hope because I stood today peering through a steel hatch and I saw an elephant arise. An animal that was prone and lifeless rose up; vital, majestic and beautiful, and I was awestruck.

elephant-release-mapesu — ©Skyhawk Photography

Something is different now on Mapesu Private Nature Reserve. There are large circular tracks in the dust, each of them etched with a labyrinth of delicate wrinkles. Mopane trees are scarred and splintered in certain places and reddish-brown balls of dung lie scattered on lonely game paths everywhere.

There are elephants here once again.

Gallery: Capturing Namibia

Home to fascinating tribal cultures, desert-adapted wildlife and breathtaking vistas, Namibia is a unique Southern African country that appeals to visitors for its promise of relatively untouched beauty.
In September 2016, AG director Christian Boix and a group of our safari clients visited the country’s most popular tourist destinations on a photographic trip that aroused the wildest of senses. Enjoy this gallery of some of the photographic highlights from their whirlwind adventure to Namibia.

? An iconic image of Deadvlei ©Adriano Gannam

? Burchell’s zebras in Etosha National Park ©Adriano Gannam

? Dune textures in Sossusvlei ©Adriano Gannam

? A Herero woman in Damaraland ©Adriano Gannam

? Ground squirrels in Solitaire ©Christian Boix

? A quiver tree in the Namib Desert ©Adriano Gannam

? An abandoned vintage vehicle in Solitaire ©Christian Boix

? A nightscape of a moringa tree in Sossusvlei ©Christian Boix

? A web-footed gecko (Palmatogecko rangei) in Dorob National Park ©Christian Boix

? A Himba child in Kaokoland ©Adriano Gannam

? The Naukluft Mountains ©Christian Boix

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Classic Namibia

Namibia is a land of stark contrasts, and a typical visitor can expect to be left in awe by its magnificent polarities – from an abundance of wildlife around waterholes in Etosha to withered tree stumps between the dunes in Deadvlei.

The country is perhaps best known for its vast landscapes, blue skies, sand dunes and endless white gravel roads. Protecting some of Africa’s most untouched wildernesses, it is also an excellent destination for photographers and wildlife lovers. All creatures great and small make an appearance in Namibia’s sandy nooks and crannies – from chameleons by the roadside and meerkats on the gravel plains, to black-maned lions and desert-adapted rhinos or elephants roaming massive expanses of semi-arid terrain.

And on a two-week trip AG director Christian Boix and six guests from Brazil and Canada crisscrossed this land in search of some of its most iconic photographic highlights. Armed with tripods, lenses, filters, hats, and oodles of suntan lotion, they ventured forth into its wildernesses with a thirst for quirky light, moonless nights, impressive vistas, beautiful people, great wildlife sightings and cold Windhoek lager.

This gallery showcases some of the highlights of their journey to most of the hotspots in this country that offers a little something for everyone.

? The iconic dunes of Sossusvlei ©Christian Boix

Nestled in the largest tract of conservation land in Africa – an impressive enough reason to visit the Namib-Naukluft National Park – lies one of the continent’s true geological gems. Sossusvlei is home to some of the most spectacular natural sand dunes in the world and is undoubtedly one of the most photographed desert landscapes in Africa. A single picture of Sossusvlei’s stark natural beauty – silhouetted camelthorn trees against a glowing morning backdrop of a towering, curvaceous red dune – can capture the essence of Namibia and what it has to offer. Nowhere else in Africa does a desert landscape convey such raw, aesthetic beauty than in Sossusvlei.

For a fantastic view of this magnificent landscape, a climb up Big Daddy or Dune 45 is well worth the hot, sweaty slog. But for an even higher viewpoint, you might want to consider a sunrise hot air balloon safari!

Finding a quiet spot to yourself in this massive landscape is not too hard, despite the hundreds of tourists that visit it daily. Sitting on a dune silently will soon reveal a gamut of critters, which eke out an existence in this seemingly dead land. The sound of a desert breeze, or the gentle crinkle of sand on the move, is often dimmed by the sound of your blood rushing through your eardrums. Vivid colours, wrinkled rocks, polished logs, and at times the sweet scent of acacia blooms, encapsulate the true essence of this magical spot.

Also worth experiencing in the area is the Sesriem Canyon – the gateway to Sossuvlei. Formed over many millennia by the Tsauchab River, the canyon is about a kilometre long and 30 metres deep in places. It is home to some of the most captivating rock formations in Namibia and is also one of the only places in the region that holds water non-perennially.

While a trip to Sossusvlei is essential on your Namibian itinerary, it can be challenging to access without a 4×4 vehicle. Access to both Sossus and Deadvlei can only be attempted by 4×4 travellers, while 2×4 travellers should park their cars and take the shuttle that covers the last five kilometres of deep sandy tracks. In fact, why not walk the final stretch and take in the spectacular scenery, sounds and smells no matter what vehicle you have?

? Making friends while sea kayaking in Walvis Bay ©Christian Boix

About 30km south of Swakopmund lies a busy harbour town on the edge of a wide lagoon that serves as the perfect hibernation area for thousands of shorebirds and migratory bird species. It offers a fantastic source of food for innumerable pelicans, flamingos, and terns – more specifically the diminutive and endemic Damara terns – while the booming fishing, cargo and sea salt industry provides many of the town’s residents with their daily bread.

Walvis Bay has always offered a gamut of exciting activities centred around its lagoon, dunes and the nearby Sandwich Harbour. A plethora of food and accommodation options have sprouted as a result. You can even expect to find a desert golf course, catamaran trips, dolphin cruises and historian quad bike rides of the dunes at your fingertips.

A climb up Dune 7 on the outskirts of town will reward you with splendid views of the lagoon, but if you want to get acquainted with those that live in its waters, then dolphins, whales and Cape fur seals can be found splashing around the black-and-white Pelican Point Lighthouse. The best way to make friends with the colony of seals is by a spot of sea kayaking, which will give you the chance to get up close and personal with these thick-pelted divers.

? The sun sets over the pier in Swakopmund ©Christian Boix

Sandwiched between the Atlantic Ocean and the Namib Desert lies a coastal oasis that feels like a surreal remnant of a bygone colonial era. Distinctly German in flavour – thanks to its residents, visitors, architecture and cuisine – it’s the perfect place to enjoy a sunny, if somewhat cool and windblown, stroll down a seaside promenade before tucking into stewed venison spätzle.

As Namibia’s most popular holiday destination, it’s not only our Baltic friends who are attracted to Swakopmund, but it’s also the place-to-be for adrenalin junkies. From skydiving and surfing to living desert tours and camel rides, the range of activities on offer is responsible for the town’s reputation of being the adventure capital of Namibia. There’ll never be a dull moment here, whether you wish to wander along the iconic pier or throw yourself out of an aeroplane over the dunes.

? A photographer’s dream at Spitzkoppe ©Christian Boix

Spitzkoppe, an awesome granitic inselberg, rises out of the Namib’s barren landscape. It has become an iconic landmark of Damaraland and is recognised by many granite-climbing junkies all over the world as the “Matterhorn of Africa”.

Most who journey here are content to stand in awe at the 100-million-year-old formations – around which are several San bushman rock art sites to explore – but, for the more intrepid travellers, the peaks are begging to be climbed. A Spitzkoppe ascent is not to be made without adequate climbing gear or experience and, at 700 metres above ground level, it is not for the faint of heart either.

Part of the Erongo Mountain range, Spitzkoppe is a remnant volcanic plug that now stands as one of the most celebrated mountains in Namibia. There are several other features of the range in the Damaraland region that are well worth adding to your itinerary. The Brandberg or ‘fire mountain’ gets its name from the burning-red hue glowing on its face at sunset – a spectacular time of day in this region. The Petrified Forest is a mystical forest of 200 million-year-old fossilised trees that were uprooted during a flood and have since been revealed by erosion as a striking spectacle of the landscape. God’s Finger, Organ Pipes, Burnt Mountain, and a never-ending list of other incredibly beautiful sights and formations, await around every turn of the road.

No matter what type of traveller you are or what you’re looking for in your Namibia experience, you’re bound to consider Spitzkoppe to be one of the most striking landscapes on your trip.

? A Herero woman in traditional dress in Damaraland ©Adriano Gannam

The Herero are a fascinating tribal group, known mostly for their antiquated clothing, which was introduced by Christian German settlers who sought to convert the tribe and clothe them in the European fashion of the times. This has since become a distinguishing mark of their identity despite the war that these same colonisers waged on them at the turn of the 20th century, which led to the death of about three-quarters of the tribe. By 1905 it is estimated that only 16,000 Herero remained, but today there are about 100,000 living mainly in the central and eastern parts of Namibia.

It is argued that the Herero’s choice to continue wearing their formal attire is a symbol of defiance and survival. The Herero women tend to wear traditional floor-length dresses from their wedding day onwards, and the men dress up at ceremonies in the uniforms of their European oppressors. This is said to be a way of honouring their ancestors who would wear the uniforms of German soldiers that they killed during their genocide. The Herero are proud cattle farmers who, before colonial times, prospered in the central grassland areas where there was ample grazing opportunity. They continue to measure their wealth in cattle – the importance of which is also reflected in the women’s headwear and dances. Their hats are designed to resemble cow horns, which get smaller as they get older as a symbol of their decreasing fertility. And during celebrations they perform the cow dance, which involves stamping feet, kicking up dust, and imitating the upraised horns and swaying movements of cattle.
If you’re in Namibia at the end of August, then it’s worth trying to head to the Herero festival, which is held in Okahandja on Maherero Day.

? Dancing kudu rock art at Twyfelfontein ©Christian Boix

The oldest example of bushman art in Namibia is thought to date back 28,000 years. And in Twyfelfontein or /Ui-//aes you will find one of the largest concentrations of rock engravings on the continent. Most of these preserved petroglyphs feature rhinos, but elephants, ostriches and giraffes are also well represented, as well as drawings of humans and animal footprints.

Some of these engravings and red ochre paintings date back to the Stone Age, and the site at Twyfelfontein provides an extensive record of rituals and economic practices of San hunter-gatherer communities in this part of Southern Africa before Damara herders and European colonialists moved in.

Separating it from the rest of the country’s rock art sights, Twyfelfontein truly feels like one of the world’s most ancient universities. The stories, engravings and meticulous detail represented in the sandstone are testimony to a very elaborate and active teaching process. Waterhole maps depicting game trails, footprints of different animals, and drawings of coastal creatures, are all evidence of what must have been an incredibly lively and enthusiastic lecture – The Science of Tracking!

Apart from one small engraved panel, which was relocated to the National Museum in Windhoek at the start of the 20th century, none of the rock art has been removed or tampered with.

? A Himba dance in Kaokoland ©Christian Boix

One of the most isolated and sparsely populated regions in all of Southern Africa, Kaokoland, can be fittingly described as one of Southern Africa’s true Edens and last remaining wildernesses. This arid landscape may come across as a harsh environment for living things, but it is, in fact, a refuge for two of the most famous and best-adapted desert icons in Africa – the desert elephant and the Himba people.

Descendants of the ancient Herero people, the Himba are a celebrated indigenous people with a population of about 5,000 – numbering one person to every two square kilometres in population density. They are renowned for the startling intricacy of their garments, as well as their traditional hairstyles. A characteristic feature of the Himba of this region is the red complexion of their skin, obtained by applying ochre as natural suntan lotion.

A semi-nomadic people, they are both proud and generous in offering visitors a glimpse into their traditional way of life, and a visit to a Himba village can be an insightful experience if undertaken with the due respect. It is crucial on any cultural tour in Africa to be sensitive of your tourist footprint; to always ask for permission when taking images, to pay your dues to the local chieftain and photographic subjects, and to be ever mindful of your conduct.

If you are lucky, you may also see the rare desert elephants while you’re in Kaokoland. Their true majesty reigns in an environment where they have mastered the principle of adaptation and sustainable resource use.

In true Namibia style, Kaokoland offers a landscape of magnificent, rugged contrasts. And as it’s not far from both Etosha and the Skeleton Coast national parks, it’s worth making this northern detour.

? White elephants fight in Etosha National Park ©Adriano Gannam

The gateway park to the north of Namibia and the Ovamboaland region, Etosha National Park holds its rightful place as one of the finest wildlife sanctuaries in the world. It is home to the Etosha pan, a salt pan which covers roughly a quarter of the park’s area and can be seen from space.

Far more than just a barren Namibian landscape, the ecosystem here is teeming with life. When the perennial rains grace the land, the pan becomes home to a population of roughly a million flamingos. And where water springs from the cracks of the earth around the edges of the pan, wildlife abounds in a diverse and thriving ecosystem.

The waterholes at the convergence of the pan and the bush are the main game viewing attraction, and with just a hint of patience, you can be rewarded with spectacular sightings of plentiful game. White elephants are one of the park’s main icons, but large prides of lions, stately giraffes and vast herds of springboks, Burchell’s zebras, oryx and wildebeests are ubiquitous too.

Any itinerary to Namibia would be incomplete without a few days at this ambassadorial national park, where natural history, wildlife and San culture all have a home.

? San bushmen hunting in //nhoq’ma ©Ana Zinger

The village of //nhoq’ma (Nhoma) lies about 40km from Tsumkwe in the north-east of Namibia, close to the border to Botswana. It is the ancestral home of a small population of Ju/’hoan San.

Various rock art sites prove that the San were the indigenous hunter-gatherers of Southern Africa, but now only approximately 55,000 members of this tribe remain in total – 20,000 of whom live in marginal settlements across Namibia.

Traditionally the San were nomadic, following food and water sources rather than farming or keeping livestock, and the women gathered edible plants, while the men hunted. There is evidence that until quite recently, many of their cultural practices were still being followed, but nowadays their traditional hunter-gatherer lifestyle is often not feasible.

The community of Nhoma consists of about 50 adults and 100 children, who make their income from tourism. Time spent at Nhoma with this San community is a most rewarding back-to-basics experience. Mornings in the bush are spent tracking, and perhaps even hunting for the pot. The art of tracking, stalking and using the different hunting paraphernalia is eagerly demonstrated during this excursion. Lighting a fire with sticks, making rope from plant fibres and setting up traps make for a fascinating start to the day. Fruit, root, bark and tuber gathering is on the agenda for the ladies, and it is mesmerising to watch how much knowledge has been passed from one generation to the next. Soon you start to understand how hard survival in this environment is, even though the San’s resourcefulness makes it look so easy.

Social and jovial, there is no opportunity missed to engage in song, dance, play or games, and back at camp you can be guaranteed to witness many dances and rituals, and before you know it be drawn to partake in the laughter, encouragement and praise of these humble people of the sands.

? A nightscape in Tsumkwe ©Christian Boix

Tsumkwe is a town in the semi-arid region of Otjozondjupa, which is nearby the San village of //nhoq’ma. So if you have been visiting the bushmen, this is a lovely place from which to admire the night sky before crossing over to Botswana. The area is sparsely populated, and the nearest town that has more than 50,000 inhabitants takes about 10 hours to reach by local transport.

The land around Tsumkwe is not cultivated, which means that most of the natural vegetation is still intact, and the soil in the area is high in arenosols, which give the ground a sandy texture that makes it comfortable for camping. September tends to be the month with the most sunshine, but the most fun arguably comes when the sun goes down and when, thanks to there being no light pollution, it is magnificent to watch the Milky Way come to life in the clear night sky.

? Africa Geographic’s Travel Director, Christian Boix, in action ©Oz Pfenninger

Christian left his birth country of Spain – its great food, siestas and fiestas – to become an ornithologist at the University of Cape Town and to start Tropical Birding, a company specialising in bird-watching tours worldwide.

For 11 years following his arrival in Africa, he travelled to over 60 countries in search of over 5,000 bird species. Time passed, his children became convinced that he was some kind of pilot and his wife acquired a budgie for company. And that’s when the penny dropped that he needed to stay put a wee bit more.

In 2012 he took the reigns at Africa Geographic Travel as its Director and infused his energy and passion for all things African into the role. Contagiously enthusiastic, he is always eager to report back on his exciting travels across the continent, and never tires of sharing the joy of birding and exploration through his photography and guiding.

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Letter: flaws in plan to sell rhino horn

Demand reduction needs to be driven by enforcing the laws promulgated in horn-consuming countries. The arguments vented by commentators to promote the concept of a central selling organisation (CSO) as the anchor component of the legalisation of the trade in rhino horn debate are seriously flawed. Written by James Campbell for Business Day

The success of a CSO, as once practised by de Beers for the sale of diamonds, had as a fundamental tenet, the focus on price stability throughout all aspects of the industry: the producer, the trader, the polisher and the consumer.

This was achieved via a supply-control mechanism at the De Beers wholesale level coupled with the ability of its customers to buy and move diamonds to the international market. In poor market conditions, such as high interest rates, de Beers put into stock millions of US dollars worth of diamonds to avoid a slump in prices and for these stones to be released to the market under better economic conditions.

Another key component of such a strategy was the massive annual investment in marketing campaigns to promote diamonds to the world consumer using its well know marketing slogan, “A diamond is forever”.

There is no similarity between the diamond CSO and a CSO as a driver in the legalising of rhino horn trade. A CSO focused on maintaining the price for horn at a level greater than the transport costs of moving illegal horn from the killing fields of SA to the markets of China and Vietnam, argued by pro-trade parties as needed to provide funding for rhino security in the wild, will continue to provide the financial motivation for the syndicates to increase poaching.

It has also to be remembered that the CSO in the diamond industry did not arrest the trade in stolen diamonds, illegally mined diamonds or blood diamonds. The Kimberley Process was developed much later as an attempt to curtail aspects of these activities..

Legalisation of horn will provide low-cost marketing credibility to the much published medicinal myths of rhino horn in these consuming countries with a resultant increase in demand.

There is a very low percentage, estimated by some commentators at 0.15% of the Chinese and Vietnamese population, who are users of this form of keratin. Even an increase in demand to supply 1% of the population triggered by the legalisation of trade will set the platform for an increase in poaching based on the most easily understood logic — the syndicates have structures now to obtain the product basically for free or close to it. Why would they abandon such structures to buy legalised horn at five to 10 times the cost of procuring poached horn?

While there is some rhino horn in stock to meet an increase in demand in the immediate short term, it is totally unsustainable beyond the very short term and will only benefit a few people like me.

Demand reduction needs to be driven by enforcing the laws promulgated in horn-consuming countries. Host countries need to be supported by international government and non-government agencies to frustrate the poaching scourge throughout the supply chain. There must be full implementation of harsh legislation similar to illegal diamond buying legislation.

Otherwise, Africa will have to reflect in a few years’ time on the aftermath of the colonisation of its wildlife heritage by Eastern forces and the major damage to an increasing and highly sustainable wildlife tourist industry not available on other continents.

The six most memorable white water rafting rapids on the Zambezi

Imagine the most thrilling rollercoaster ride you have ever been on – with its sharp turns, steep drops, unexpected twists and ability to temporarily rearrange your organs. Well, white water rafting is Mother Nature’s gift to thrill-seekers at the Batoka Gorge Rapids, which lie not far downstream from Victoria Falls on the Zambezi River. Written by: Jessica White

Just taking one trip between the walls of this cavernous gorge, down a river with a mind of its own, leaves white water rafting fans feeling euphoric and hungry for more. If you are having trouble deciphering whether you are being churned through “The Washing Machine” or tripping up “The Stairway to Heaven”, here’s all you need to know about the six rapids that are sure to still be running through your mind long after they have spat you out.

1. The Stairway to Heaven

As one of the biggest rapids in the world, the fifth rapid is fondly referred to as the Stairway to Hell by those who have been on her bad side. Beware not to be lulled into a false sense of serenity, as the drop into the frothing water is so steep that, only at the moment when your raft is balanced precariously on the edge, do you realise what a steep plummet you are in for. One minute you will be staring at a smooth horizon, the next your heart is in your throat and your paddle is frantically snatching at the water as you attempt to launch yourselves to the other side. Fortunately, at the base is a massive standing wave, named the Catcher Mitt, ready to hurl you out and on to the next one.

Grade 5 – Large and irregular waves, long and violent rapids with many obstructions in the forms of stoppers or rocks. May have big drops or steep gradients.

2. Gulliver’s Travels

True to its name, this rapid is bound to take you on the journey of a lifetime. Much like Gulliver’s Travels, this rapid is long and complex, and requires careful navigation of features such as Indicator Rock, which helpfully alerts you to turn right in order to avoid being flipped into the tsunami-sized waves known as Land of the Giants.

Grade 5 – Large and irregular waves, long and violent rapids with many obstructions in the forms of stoppers or rocks. May have big drops or steep gradients.

3. Commercial Suicide

This is the only grade six rapid that you will encounter, and it is the unrunnable rapid. However, it is still an incredible spectacle, as it is impossible to tell which direction the enormous and furious waves are crashing from. Whether it was with rage or love, Mother Nature poured a lot of powerful emotion into the creation of this awe-inspiring rapid.

Grade 6 – Commercially unrunnable in a raft. We carry our rafts around these rapids.

4. The Washing Machine

An ominous black rock lurks in the middle of this rapid, causing the water to churn into a frenzy of agitated waves, which resemble the inside of a washing machine that’s gone into overdrive. This rapid will snatch you up, spin you around and squirt you out, cleaner than you have ever been.

Grade 5 – Large and irregular waves, long and violent rapids with many obstructions in the forms of stoppers or rocks. May have big drops or steep gradients.

5. The Terminator

This rapid is a genuine traffic-stopper. A solid wall of water builds up and crashes back on itself, bringing rafts to an abrupt halt before tossing them over, scattering paddles and rafters across the Zambezi.

Grade 4 – Many irregular-sized waves and obstacles including rocks and strong eddies

6. Oblivion

This is the most photographic rapid on the river and it has caused more rafts to somersault than any other on the planet. This rapid comprises of three waves, and the star of the show stands at an impressive four to five metres. If you don’t capsize, then it is possible to surf the wave for up to 45 seconds. Rafters who do abruptly disembark are quickly flushed to safety.

Grade 5 – Large and irregular waves, long and violent rapids with many obstructions in the forms of stoppers or rocks. May have big drops or steep gradients.

These are only six of the rapids to be found on the Zambezi, and it’s up to you to come and discover the rest. Do yourself a favour and come white water rafting in Victoria Falls. Just one trip and you will be hooked. Warning: Rafting is highly addictive.

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Hiking across Africa’s largest canyon

Written by: Kabo Letlhogela

Our 85-kilometre hike across the Fish River Canyon, Africa’s largest canyon, began with a torturous two-kilometre descent from the main viewpoint near Hobas. Most people consider this to be the most strenuous section of the trail, and three hours later our group had only reached the lowest point and still had a while to go before reaching the sandy riverbed.

Kabo Letlhogela standing at starting point

Due to the tiring descent, we only covered a further 1.8km before setting up camp near First Rest Pools, where we bathed and swam in the water of the Fish River and used it to cook our evening meal.

The following day, we proceeded across thick desert sand, passing gigantic boulders, magical mountain ridges and bushes. Just before lunch, we stopped at the Wild Fig bend where you can find a Vespa scooter from a 1968 expedition that didn’t quite go according to plan. Nearby, an old carcass of a zebra greeted us. We then camped at Palm Springs and enjoyed a hot bath in the thermal sulphur pools. Across the pools, Namibia’s famous wild horses emerged.

On day three, we covered our greatest distance of 31 kilometres. Towering above us were prominent attractions such as Monument Mountain and Table Mountain, which resembles the Table Mountain in Cape Town. At Baboon Mountain Pools, the boys went for a swim to cool down, while the ladies proceeded for an extra kilometre to set-up camp at Bushy Corner.

On the fourth day, the Fish River split into three directions and our group disbanded, some of us getting lost before regrouping. Back on the trail we saw a pair of old rusty hiking boots left by a fellow hiker and, a few metres away, a colony of nearly 40 baboons marched in the opposite direction.

The hike was starting to take its toll as many members of our group were suffering from various injuries. As we passed the German soldier’s grave and the Four Finger Rock, the unrelenting heat forced us to take a longer break than usual before continuing to our last campsite for the hike – Fool’s Gold Corner.

The prospect of clean water and a cold beer were the motivating forces for us to hike the remaining kilometres on our final day. We passed through the Fish Eagle Pools and a rock inscribed with the words ‘COLD BEER’ and pointing to the resort was our final sign of hope that the end was in sight. After five days of hiking in the heat, we arrived at the resort and had accomplished our goal of conquering Africa’s largest canyon during heritage month!

We bet you didn’t know these weird wildlife collective nouns

The collective nouns for lions and other animals

How often have you heard someone say “so what do you call a group of giraffe?” or mongooses or whatever? Well, we did some research and came up with the following wildlife collective nouns, some of which had us giggling 🙂

A clan of hyena

A leap of leopards

A dazzle of zebra

A memory of elephant

A prickle of porcupine

An armoury of aardvarks

A pod or raft of hippos

A crash of rhino

A parliament of owls

A confusion of guinea fowl

A convocation of eagles

A whoop of gorillas

A business of mongoose

An obstinacy of buffalo

An implausibility of wildebeest

A wake of vultures

A fling of oxpeckers

A gaggle of geese

A hedge of herons

A pod of pelicans

A tower of giraffe (when the giraffe are standing still)

A journey of giraffe (for moving animals)

A pride of lion

A coalition of cheetah

A bask of crocodiles

A flamboyance of flamingoes

An elephant family finds a new home

Written by: Jay Roode

The Great Elephant Census of 2016 has just published its findings and they are shocking. African elephant populations are down 30% in the past seven years and individual numbers stand at only 350,000 across 18 African countries. One elephant is being poached every 15 minutes for its ivory – that’s 40,000 a year.

In an era during which the wilderness is shrinking, conservation areas are becoming ring-fenced and human populations are expanding; the space for wild things is dwindling. We stand at the edge of a world where the magnificent creatures that have travelled with us through the ages, and form part of humanity’s fabric, are reduced to theme park amusements in zoos and synthetic wilderness parks.

We too readily forget that the wilderness is not a luxury but a necessity for the human spirit. This is an era that demands urgent conservation philanthropy, particularly from the private sector, with regards to creating or expanding habitat for wild creatures and protecting them for future generations.

This concept became avidly clear when I recently accompanied the Shared Universe Foundation on the relocation of a family group of eight elephants into the newly expanded conservancy of Mapesu. The reserve was historically used for cattle farming and hunting and hasn’t seen resident elephants for over 100 years. But all that is about to change.

The Limpopo valley is a vast wilderness area; a quiet primitive place that is home to some of South Africa’s most noteworthy Khoi San rock art and of course to the ancient kingdom of Mapungubwe – a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This valley has enormous potential as a vast transfrontier conservation area, which is a vision actively promoted by Shared Universe.

Poaching has reached unmanageable proportions in certain parts of the valley, and this elephant family was in desperate need of a new home.

I was completely unprepared for the scale of the operation and the dedication of the people involved. It was a massive undertaking involving vets, helicopters, large cranes, specially modified transport containers and a brave and dedicated ground crew.

The operation got off the ground before dawn but it was only at around midday that the elephants were located and nudged towards our position by the patient buzzing of an experienced helicopter pilot.

The heat seemed to flow upwards and the entire landscape shimmered under a relentless assault. Even the giant baobabs seemed to melt like silvery grey wax; their voodoo limbs reaching to the heavens in a desperate plea to end the inferno.

We were all concerned that the elephants may succumb to these extreme conditions, so the operation had to happen quickly and seamlessly to ensure there were no fatalities. The highly experienced crew managed to dart and load these slumbering giants into the specially modified transport containers within a couple of hours.

The cavalcade of trucks, surrounded in billows of red dust, ponderously made its way along rough dirt tracks on their long drive through silent rock and unbounded space to Mapesu and freedom.

Once the antidote was administered, it was thrilling to hear the thundering bangs and thumps as the elephants slowly awoke and came to their feet. The huge containers shook and quivered with their colossal load.

Although it had been a taxing day and everyone was fatigued after what had been a herculean effort, all was forgotten as we stood in a reverential hush as these gentle behemoths slowly walked out of the truck and into their new home.

The landscape itself seemed to expand and welcome home these gentle hearts, and a sense of completeness pervaded the air. An essential puzzle piece had been restored.

Elephants are a keystone species and crucial to Africa’s forests and savannahs. Creating a sustainable elephant population will require a coordinated and multi-faceted effort. We all need to be committed to the belief that, through innovation and dedication, we can conquer what initially appears insurmountable.

CITES: observations from a young Honorary Wildlife Warden

Written by: Raabia Hawa

There are few things that can crush my heart. I suppose after coming across hundreds of elephant carcasses lying abuzz with maggot-filled cavities in pools of thickening blood, there is little that really can move you to tears.

How funny it is then that I was moved to tears watching grown men and women – diplomats, delegates, and professionals – make a decision that even a five-year-old could see is just plain wrong.

I attended the CITES 17th Conference of the Parties because I felt it was necessary to understand the workings of a system that makes decisions, which inevitably have an impact on myself, future generations and everyone on the frontline in the war against poaching.

I pulled together my savings and struggled to get letters of confidence in order to get the necessary accreditation to attend this global market of endangered wildlife and their parts.

The first thing that struck me on arrival at the CoP17 was the jaw-droppingly lavish setting. I walked up to the Sandton Convention Centre and joined the demonstration outside, where people of all ages, nationalities and from all walks of life, shouted their throats sore for elephants, rhinos and lions. “What do we want?” They shouted, and the children, some as young as just five years old, shouted back, “Appendix 1!”

I began my CITES experience with such high hopes. Surely the voices of children, rangers, conservationists and the general public would not go unheard?

I made my way in to get the all-coveted pass and felt so grand wearing it around the arena. Initially, it was difficult to move around as there were so many simultaneous side-events, and my amazing mentor, Will Travers, kept getting pulled into things, so I explored alone for a while.

Through my interactions with numerous people, I discovered there were WhatsApp groups that I requested to be added to. These groups made it so much easier for me to know what was happening around me, to find out which working groups were meeting and where, and what critical proposals were coming up in the committee sessions.

And that’s where it all went down…

That is where I watched the EU let down an entire species to support a few greedy men that satiate the hunting industry. Never in my life had I heard such impassioned speeches in support of decimating entire species in order to line a few pockets. I began to feel sick to my stomach and it became harder each session to hold back my tears.

But it was on Tuesday that I broke. Everyone had been talking up this day. “Tomorrow’s the big one,” people kept saying in the corridors and around coffee tables.

My elephants were on the line.

The morning began with a prayer and briefing at the African Elephant Coalition room. We would stand strong for our mighty Ndovu.

Proposal 14, 15 and 16 were in session. My heart was beating so fast as I celebrated the small victories against the ivory trade proposals, and then it was time for the proposal of the AEC to uplist elephants to Appendix I.

The room was packed to the brim as everyone came in to witness the debate, clinging to hope (some for elephants, some for their lust for money). And so it began.

One side was fighting for the survival of a species, the other to destroy it. Passionate and polarised arguments fought this ultimate war of words.

For those of us on the field, let us always cling to the pillar of strength that for me now is Botswana. Agreeing to relinquish its Appendix II listing for elephants, and ban all ivory until 2025, this Southern African nation has ignored the voices of greed and heard the plight of future generations and a species in need.

I felt so helpless sitting in the back of the room and realising how different South African value systems are from the rest of Africa.

Antigua and Barbuda, Bahrain, Belize, Brazil, Canada, Chile, Cuba, DRC, Fiji, Gambia, Guyana, Iceland, Indonesia, Japan, Kuwait, Liechtenstein, Madagascar, Malawi, Maldives, Mexico, Mozambique, Myanmar, Namibia, Norway, Peru, Rep. Korea, Russian Federation, St. Lucia, Saudi Arabia, South Africa, St. Vincent and the Grenadines, Swaziland, Switzerland, Tajikistan, Tanzania, Uruguay, Vietnam, Zambia, Zimbabwe, China and shockingly, the United States of America (despite President Obama’s Executive Order against ivory and rhino horn trade) all voted against giving elephants the highest level of legal international protection.

But what swung the vote was the EU. With their block voting right counting for 28 votes, and a need for a two-third majority in favour of elephants to win, they callously and unashamedly denied Africa’s elephants any hope, and they denied me and future generations the same.

The EU managed to do what no poacher has done. Without mercy and devoid of ethics, the EU hacked away my heart, leaving me lying motionless in a pool of tears at the back of a room where flags of the world acted as my backdrop.

What will I tell the rangers when I go back home? What will I tell the families of those who died protecting this gentle giant we call Ndovu? CITES reconvenes in three years. Possibly by that time, Africa will have lost a further 100,000 elephants. And that is if the current rate of poaching does not increase with this lack of international protection for elephants, which I would say is quite unlikely.

I may not know what to say to the teams back home, but I will say this – unashamedly and without fear: If anything happens to me on the field between now and then, I will know in my heart who is to blame.

The silent giants of Tsavo

Tsavo National Park in Kenya is probably on every wildlife enthusiast’s bucket list. Renowned for its stories of man-eating lions, and admired for its famous elephants covered in red dust and the Critically Endangered hirola, a trip to Tsavo imbues tranquillity in the African wilderness with the prospect of observing big tuskers in their natural environment.

Spanning an area of 22,000km² – making it slightly bigger than South Africa’s Kruger – Tsavo is Kenya’s largest national park. And I had the good fortune to be guided in the park for nearly a week by Richard Moller, the Chief Executive Officer of The Tsavo Trust, and stay at Satao Camp in Tsavo East, which kindly subsidised some of the accommodation, meals and transfers.

The park’s nine big tuskers are among perhaps only 40 on the whole African continent today, as these so-called ‘hundred pounders have been all but wiped out as a combined result of poaching, trophy hunting and large scale exploitation of ivory for consumer goods. So it was a dream of mine to try to locate a few of these remaining iconic giants, and capture them on camera for monitoring purposes and posterity.

Note from the editor: We are very aware of public sensitivity to the disclosure of the location of large tuskers. This feature was put together under the close supervision of the Tsavo Trust, which takes excellent care of Tsavo’s special giants. Read on for further information.

? A herd of elephants in Tsavo National Park © Dex Kotze

The search for Tsavo’s tuskers

Africa Geographic arranged my Tsavo safari after I expressed the wish to see some of the last-remaining huge elephants.

Arriving in Kenya for research and a photographic safari excursion means that you need to pack very few clothes and ensure your photographic equipment takes precedence. It is only by patiently spending 10 to 12 hours a day in the bush that you will have even the remote chance of seeing a big tusker.
Richard is a seasoned fixed-wing pilot and treated me to the joys of aerial observation in the Super Cub on his daily reconnaissance flights. It struck me how easily Richard could identify the elephants from great distances, and we circled far away from them to avoid disturbing their peace.

Thanks to his skill, I achieved my goal and managed to see three of the largest bulls in the park, as well as a few huge females and several emerging tuskers. One evening, after spending 12 hours in the wilderness, local Tusker beer in hand by the fireplace, Richard and I reminisced about the wonders of nature that we had managed to locate during the day. While the waterhole at Satao Camp was inundated with elephants, sometimes as many as 60 quenching their thirst until late at night, our conversation focused on how to save these hidden icons of Africa’s savannahs. No sooner would a herd step back into the darkness to wander miles away in search of food, than another 30 elephants would arrive with rumblings and friendly scuffles in the dark, splashing at the waterhole in sheer delight at the coolness of the water on their bodies. It was a remarkable experience to fall asleep in our luxury tents later, surrounded by the stillness of the night that was only interrupted by the sounds of these majestic beings.

richard-moller-tsavo-elephants — Richard Moller with a big tusker in the background ©Dex Kotze

airplane-tsavo-kenya — Taking off in the Super Cub ©Dex Kotze

big-tusker-dex-kotze — One of only around 30-40 ‘hundred-pounders’ on the continent ©Dex Kotze

Elephant populations in East Africa

Sadly, the egoic obsessions of Western hunters to kill powerful beings is still very prevalent in this day and age. Although Kenya has banned hunting since the mid-70s, elephants do traverse freely to neighbouring Tanzania where elephant hunts are still taking place legally. Consequently, some iconic elephants have wandered perilously across the open borders, unknowingly taking the risk of being shot to decorate a mantelpiece some 14,000km away.

Observing these magnificent elephants in Tsavo East filled me with inner turmoil. Years of my research have revealed how world leaders, CITES, and the corruption in range, transit and consumer states have mostly failed these majestic and sentient beings. Where once 10 million elephants roamed the African continent some 200 years ago, less than 420,000 now remain.

While travelling from Satao Elerai Camp in Amboseli, I witnessed how Tsavo East and West are cut in half by the road that leads from Nairobi to Mombasa. China has also financed over 90% of the new 609km railway line that runs parallel to the road and is due for completion in December 2016. The Mombasa-Nairobi standard gauge railway is the biggest infrastructure project in Kenya since the country’s independence. It will eventually link Mombasa, which is the world’s most significant transit point for ivory smuggling, with other major East African cities, such as Kampala in Uganda. The railway line is designed to carry 22 million tonnes of cargo a year, or a projected 40% of Mombasa Port throughput by 2035.

The total contribution of tourism in Kenya was 10.5% of GDP in 2014 and is forecast to continue rising thanks to the country’s wildlife wonders ©Dex Kotze

standard-guage-railway-tsavo — An underpass for elephants that is being built underneath the standard gauge railway ©Dex Kotze

elephant-herd-drinking — Time for a drink in Tsavo ©Dex Kotze

In this video by Richard Moller, you can watch some of Tsavo’s elephants dealing with their new environment:

Upon seeing this massive railway project, I recalled how, when arriving in Nairobi from Johannesburg days earlier, my attention was immediately drawn to the fact that nearly 90% of travellers at passport control came from China, including those in the queue for Kenyan passport holders. I had a brief flash of Howard French’s book, China’s Second Continent: A guide to the new colonisation of Africa, that I had read a year ago. I witnessed his experience firsthand and shuddered to think of the aftermath for Africa’s wildlife, considering the vast numbers of elephants poached to fulfil the Asian demand for ivory.

The Great Elephant Census is the largest pan-African aerial survey since the 1970s and recently released its results ahead of the CITES Conference of the Parties in Johannesburg at the end of September 2016. It showed that in seven years, between 2007 and 2014, numbers of savannah elephants plummeted by at least 30%.

At this year’s Conference of the Parties, a vital decision was made concerning the deplorable practice of ivory sales for carvings and collectors’ cabins. Members rejected Namibia and Zimbabwe’s proposals, which were strongly supported by South Africa, to export ivory stockpiles. After all, the morally unjustified decision in 2008 to allow a one-off sale of 106 tonnes of ivory to Japan and China yielded a mere US$15.5 million, which is an absolute pittance if one considers how 35,000 elephants a year have been slaughtered for their ivory since that time only eight years ago.

However, another proposal by the African Elephant Coalition, which consists of 30 African states, to up-list Southern African elephants to Appendix I for the highest possible protection, was sadly rejected at the CITES conference when the EU blocked the proposal. Importantly Botswana, with nearly one-third of the continent’s elephant populations, supported the coalition proposal.

big-tusker-tsavo-dex-kotze — One of Tsavo’s nine big tuskers ©Dex Kotze

tsavo-national-park-railway — The road that leads from Nairobi to Mombasa separates Tsavo East from Tsavo West ©Dex Kotze

elephant-herd-waterhole-tsavo — An elephant herd cools down in a waterhole in Tsavo ©Dex Kotze

Collaboration efforts

On the second day of my trip, we spotted a carcass of an elephant that had died a natural death. Later in the day, Richard asked the KWS rangers to accompany him to collect the ivory lying next to the dead animal. Their conversation was in fluent Swahili, and it was clear to see that the relationship between him and the rangers was filled with deep mutual respect for each other’s work and their efforts as the custodians of Tsavo’s heritage.

Two years ago the carcass of Satao, the world-famous big tusker, was found in the area. He had been killed by a poisoned arrow and found with his face hacked to pieces for his tusks, which were destined to decorate the desk of an Asian collector. World conservationists called this a monumental loss. As a result of the prevalence of poaching, Richard would like to see one or two of the iconic Tsavo tuskers enjoy a Presidential Security Decree to protect them, as was the case with the famous tusker called Ahmed of Marsabit National Park in Kenya in the early 1970s. If successfully repeated, this will be a momentous achievement in conservation leadership by an African president.

Over the next few days, I was elated to observe the successful cooperation between The Tsavo Trust, a field-based NGO established four years ago, and the Kenya Wildlife Services. In less than four years since Richard Moller embarked on his NGO’s programme to protect Tsavo’s tuskers, elephant poaching in Tsavo has reduced by over half. There are few examples of close co-operation by African NGOs and their government counterparts in wildlife conservation, so this is a notable venture. Richard and his co-pilot, Josh Outram, spend over 60 hours per month recording the silent giants of Tsavo’s savannahs, and they have donated more than US$300,000 worth of anti-poaching vehicles and equipment to KWS since its inception.

elephant-carcass-tsavo — One morning in flight, Dex and Richard noticed the three-to-four-week-old carcass of an elephant that appeared to have died of natural causes ©Dex Kotze

elephant-in-dust — A young elephant gives himself a dust bath ©Dex Kotze

They also work closely with local communities, as they fully appreciate that the survival of Africa’s iconic species is dependent on the participation of people who live on park borders. Human-wildlife conflict is at the root of an ecological disaster still in its infancy, and apex predators such as lions are especially affected in East Africa, as they pose an enormous threat to the cattle herders, so are consequently often killed or poisoned.

The ubiquitous pastoralists are, according to my sources, spending months in the park grazing the cattle of wealthy politicians, even though this is illegal. Over the course of our week in the area, Richard and I flew over several cattle herds and, a few days later, on my outward journey from Tsavo East, I again observed several thousand cattle and goats inside the park boundaries. The implications that this also has on Tsavo’s ecosystem are immense. From the Super Cub, I noticed that areas north of the Galana River were deprived of any flora and saw massive expanses of soil erosion caused by the hooves of livestock that had been herded to the river for water.

According to documents published by the United Nations, Kenya’s current population of 46 million people is expected to grow to 157 million by 2100. Africa’s people will swell from 1.2 billion today to 4.4 billion by the end of the century. These existing difficulties will increase tenfold over the next 80 years. Unless addressed now by closely involving local communities in conservation initiatives, this increase will spell disaster for Africa’s endangered species.

A herd of cattle walking through the park ©Dex Kotze — Pastoralists driving cattle and goats to the Galana River in Tsavo ©Dex Kotze

elephant-and-babies-tsavo — A dusty red elephant leads the way for her two babies ©Dex Kotze

tsavo-lion — The lions of East Africa are no exception to the human-wildlife conflict ©Dex Kotze

Where to stay in Tsavo

If you’re planning a trip to Tsavo National Park, Satao Camp in Tsavo East is a luxury eco-camp that makes for an ideal base from which to explore the area. Thanks to its fabulous light and unbelievable views, Tsavo East is a paradise for photographers who particularly wish to get shots of the Mudanda Rock, Lugard Falls and Yatta Plateau. With only one lodge and four camps within Tsavo East, the rolling hills of the park have a very remote feel, which means that Satao Camp can provide a rather exclusive experience.

Nestled amongst trees, the semi-circular layout around a waterhole of its 20 ensuite tents offers guests fantastic views from their private verandahs – on which they can toast a Tusker after spending the day in search of this beer’s namesake.

satao-camp-bedroom — Enjoy a comfortable night’s sleep in Tsavo East ©Satao Camp

satao-camp-elephant — An elephant at the waterhole in front of the ensuite tents ©Satao Camp

About the author

Dex Kotze is a businessman who applies his business experience of 30 years to the world of conservation. With a deep passion for Africa’s wildlife and wildlife photography, he started an NGO called Youth 4 African Wildlife, which aims to create next-generation global ambassadors for endangered African wildlife through experiential research, social media, film and photography. Since its inception four years ago, over ZAR800,000 has been raised for rhino conservation, with proceeds assisting in the successful translocation of rhinos to Botswana and the purchase of anti-poaching security dogs and equipment. His passion also steered him in 2014 to be a core strategist of the international NGO, Global March for Elephants, Rhinos and Lions, raising international awareness of the plight of elephants, rhinos and lions.
Dex is also a director of South Africa’s The Rhino Orphanage, a non-profit company based in Limpopo. This was the first of its kind when it was established in 2012, and it is a haven where injured and orphaned rhino calves are cared for, with the aim of releasing them back into the wild.

A cultural awakening in Sudan

Written by: Simon OChen

Nothing can prepare you for the heat in Sudan. It cracks 35ºC before 9am and easily hits the mid-40s by lunch. And surprisingly, it’s cooler in long clothing than in shorts.

Mungi, my guide, presents me with a jellabiya, the traditional long robe that men wear in Sudan. It’s great in keeping the heat at bay. Usually it’s white but can be found in a variety of colours and styles. How it’s kept white in this dusty country I’ll never know, but I’m sure there are some very talented laundry services here.

I slip the jellabiya on and head down Arba’im road, along the old camel route. Arba’im means ‘40’ in Arabic, so named as that was the amount of days it took for the camel caravans to trek from western Sudan to southern Egypt. This road is now tarmacked and smooth, leading to the shrine of Sheikh Hamed al-Nil, the man who had started the Sufi movement many moons ago.

“Every Friday people gather at the shrine,” Mungi explains, “where, after the 16:30 prayers, everyone comes together to form the Zikir Huliya. ‘Zikir’ means ‘charity’ while Huliya means ‘ring’ and the chanting is about Mohammed the Prophet’s good deeds and Allah. They play music and chant repeatedly, some men go into a trance-like state.”

The shrine is located in the Omdurman cemetery. The parking area is lined with small pop-up stalls filled with bites to eat, sweets, tea, coffee and cigarettes. In the main square you will find free food by volunteer cooks who are happy to feed everybody involved.

Men start to gather outside the shrine as the sun sets in the west. A semi-circle is formed and the priests start to drum a beat. They walk around the circle singing, inviting folk to come in and dance.

A priest wearing a rasta-coloured jellabiya (green, red and yellow) walks around burning incense, pausing by various people who sniff it and ritually pass the smoke over themselves and then stuff the priest’s pocket with monetary notes.

I find myself lightly swaying to the beat as Sufis from neighbouring areas arrive with more instruments and parade around the circle.

Men started to chant, and a priest loaded with beads dances around in circles within the circle. The energy is high. Everybody is smiling, greeting each other with long hugs and even longer blessings. It is such an eye-opener to see that this religion, one that the west has grown to fear, can be so spiritual and peaceful. And welcoming without judgement, dissolving the initial judgements I myself held.

I’ve only been in Sudan for four days but I am loving every minute of it. Despite the heat.

Video: Johannesburg market sells illegal wildlife products

EXTRACT FROM THE FOLLOWING THIRD PARTY SOURCE: Traveller24

This 5-minute raw footage taken at the Faraday Muthi Market in Selby, Johannesburg, shows skins and animal parts of endangered species openly available for sale, such as cheetah, leopard, lion, chimpanzee, hyena, pangolin and vulture.

While this was happening, just down the road in Sandton, more than 3,500 delegates from 183 member state countries attended the 17th Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora – one of the most important wildlife conferences focused on the protection and monitoring of trade in wildlife.

Yet, at this Jo’burg market, a rather well-known muthi (traditional medicine) market, the video clearly shows rampant trade in illegal wildlife products, most of which have very specific restrictions attached to trade, if any is even allowed.

The person who took the video and shared it with Blood Lions wishes to remain anonymous, but confirmed the video’s authenticity to Traveller24 and that it was taken on Monday, 3 October, saying it was, “alarming to see so many leopard skins available.”

In January this year, the Department of Environmental Affairs set provincial leopard trophy hunting quotas at zero for 2016, effectively banning leopard trophy hunting throughout South Africa for a year.

This calls into question the origin of these products, which include pangolin scales, just moved up to CITES Appendix I. Other products included lion skins and bone, as well as endangered vulture species.

Traveller24 spoke to Green Scorpions Environmental Management Inspector for Complaints, Andrew Mbhalati, who is the acting head for Green Scorpions at the moment, but he could not confirm if the market was being investigated.

Mbhalati says he would only be able to follow up on the matter on Monday, when the necessary official Eric Mbela who deals with biodiversity issues was back in the office.

Mbhalati says: “We rely on the public to lodge a complaint. Thereafter the issues are then registered and we send the inspectors to investigate further.” He could not confirm that the division actively investigates or patrols well-known markets such as Faraday. But given that the film was shot on Monday afternoon, it does not appear as if this particular one is being actively monitored.

Ian Michler, the investigative conservationist behind the documentary Blood Lions who has seen the video, told Traveller24 that while no official complaint has been laid, Blood Lions would definitely be collecting a full body of information in order to do so.

Michler says: “The striking irony of this is that a mere 15km from where the world has been holding the most important conference on the trade of endangered species is that these products are being traded in a market. The video shows everything from lion and vultures and crocodiles and primate hands.”

Michler says that while it is all good and well for the stakeholders to hold intellectual discussions on the endangered species, it highlights how little is actually being done on the ground and exactly why these species are in trouble.

“It is one thing to accord them protection in writing but it is another to enforce those laws entirely, which CITES needs to be aware of,” says Michler.

“It is the greatest irony and sadness in actual fact,” says Michler.

When told that the Green Scorpions rely largely on investigating complaints made by the public or organisations who witness the illegal trader, Michler says: “This is an indictment on local and national government, the fact that a country of South Africa’s stature when it comes to wildlife cannot get a rudimentary protection force together to carry out their mandate.”

Michler says: “At least give them the capabilities to patrol markets in the heart of the city – because this is what it boils down to, we are not talking about markets that are in the middle of nowhere. These are visible to everyone. It is extremely sad and a very concerning situation – that they don’t have the resources to carry out the most basic regulatory mandate.”

As part of its official complaint, Michler says Blood Lions would be looking at other areas in the CBD, as well as trying to ascertain who the suppliers to these markets area are.

NSPCA Wildlife aware of the muthi market

National Council of SPCA spokesperson Isobel Wentzel told Traveller24 that, while they are aware of the market, it falls out of their domain.

“We don’t have proof on how the animals are killed, it would be about the manner in how they were killed or proof of cruelty. The fact is we don’t know if they were alive when the parts were chopped off.”

However, Wentzel says: “Market traders need to be in possession of a wildlife trader permit, which must be regulated as it is issued subject to specific quotas. They need permits even if it’s for traditional medicine.”

Wentzel agreed that all known muthi markets across the various provinces need to be checked on, especially to establish proof of origin.

CITES regulates international and not domestic trade

“Conservation enforcement departments have to check if these guys have been issued permits. But it’s clear some of the species they can’t get permits to trade in,” which is the key issue here according to Wentzel.

While CITES regulates international and not domestic trade, Wentzel says these traders are still accountable as it is illegal to take animals such as pangolin out of the wild, let alone sell them.

“You cannot take animals out of the wild; it must be legally bred in captivity in order to trade some of them.”

Wentzel also suggests that it is unlikely these parts came from animals that died of natural causes. “If animals die of natural causes, a permit needs to be obtained just to keep the horn of a rhino for example. Leopard or cheetah skins cannot leave that property unless they have a registered wildlife permit. Curios all have permits for their wildlife items. Even if they call it traditional medicine, muthi markets are not exempted from the law.”

CITES CoP17 – Africa in a nutshell

Another CITES Conference of the Parties has concluded, with a mixed bag of results. The sheer volume of press releases and social media commentary can be confusing, even bewildering. And so here is a brief summary of the main decisions that affect African species.

Note:

– CITES appendix I: No legal international trade.

– CITES appendix II: International trade is permitted, subject to issue of export permits by relevant authorities.

Elephants

1. Namibia, Zimbabwe and South Africa requested the legalisation of international trade in ivory.

Request denied.

2. The Elephant Coalition (29 countries) and Botswana requested that elephants in Namibia, South Africa, Botswana and Zimbabwe be up-listed from CITES appendix II to I.

Request denied.

Note that elephants in all other African countries are already on CITES I and that the CITES II listing for the four countries above prohibits international trade in ivory. In effect the trophy hunting of elephants in those four countries and other countries (where the CITES I classification specifically permits hunting) will continue unaffected, as will the sale of live elephants. Elephant trophies may be exported, subject to specific bans already in place by target countries, but ivory may not be traded internationally (domestic sales are permissible).

Rhinos

Swaziland requested that they be allowed to trade internationally in white rhino horn.

Request denied

Note that white rhinos are listed on CITES II, with an annotation preventing the trade in rhino horn. South Africa permits domestic trade in rhino horn – although there are ongoing legal proceedings in this regard.

Lions

Several nations requested the up-listing of lions from CITES appendix II to CITES appendix I, which would kill the growing trade in lion bones and other parts.

Request denied, but no wild lion parts may be traded. Lion parts from captive-bred lions can be traded by South Africa, with that country required to set quotas and report to CITES each year.

In effect this decision entrenches and legitimises the lion breeding programmes in South Africa, and opens up possible channels for the laundering of wild lion parts. Trophy hunting of wild and captive-bred lions continues unaffected.

Pangolins

Request to up-list all pangolins from CITES II to CITES 1 was approved

Grey parrots

Request to up-list grey parrots from CITES II to CITES 1 was approved

This means that no wild-caught grey parrots can be traded internationally. Breeders can trade internationally in captive-bred grey parrots if they register their breeding facility with CITES (which will require upholding of specific standards) and permitting processes. There is no restriction on breeders selling captive-bred grey parrots domestically.

Cheetahs

Request to increase protective measures against the exotic pet trade (cheetahs are already on CITES 1) was approved. States agreed to co-operate more fully, and emphasis was placed on a unified approach for social media platforms.

Sharks and rays

Request made to up-list silky sharks, three species of thresher sharks and nine species of mobula rays to CITES appendix II was approved. This means that trade in these species will now have to be proven to be sustainable.

Parting thoughts

Although these changes provide a few more tools to prevent illegal international trade, they are only as effective as the degree to which the law is respected, applied and enforced. Most trafficking of wildlife happens outside of the law, and I am not convinced that any of these changes will have significant positive effects. Some of them might even drive illegal trade deeper underground than it is currently.

There seems to be an enormous void between CITES and those empowered on the ground to implement effective conservation strategies. What also comes through from social media chatter is a growing sense that CITES is purely an elite United Nations club, of frustration that foreigners with no understanding of the reality on the ground get to make fundamentally important decisions, and that it’s time for Africa to be in charge of its own wildlife management decisions.

Palm oil trade to develop in Congo Basin

EXTRACT FROM THE FOLLOWING THIRD PARTY SOURCE: Written by: Joe Sandler Clarke for Energy Desk, Greenpeace

The second-largest rainforest in the world could become the next frontier in the global palm oil trade as the government of Cameroon considers allowing the expansion of plantations in the country.

The Congo Basin rainforest is home to a range of wildlife, including gorillas. ©Markus Mauthe / Greenpeace

SG Sustainable Oils Cameroon (SGSOC) hold a land lease to develop palm oil on 20,000 hectares of land on the fringe of the Congo Basin rainforest and the company is hoping to receive an extended lease on the land.

The news comes as local community members announce they are bringing a case against the firm, with hundreds of farmers accusing the company of failing to respect the “buffer zones” around their farmland.

The emergence of industrial palm oil plantations in the region has sparked concern among local environmentalists.

Home to gorillas, forest elephants and bonobos, as well as more than 1,000 species of birds and 10,000 types of tropical plants, the rainforest spans six countries, covering a little over 40% of Cameroon’s land.

SGSOC has been active in Cameroon for seven years, working at a relatively small scale, but sparking significant controversy.

It originally outlined plans to develop up to 60,000 hectares of land for palm – an area the size of Madrid, but has since backed away from those plans.

When contacted by Greenpeace researchers, SGSOC said the land it had sought had been designated as an “agricultural development zone in 1989”.

SGSOC have present in Cameroon since 2009. ©Environmental Investigation A

Farmland

In 2012, an EU-funded independent observer of the forestry sector claimed that the company had been clearing forest, without a permit.

More recently, residents in Babensi II village, which overlaps the concession, have complained about their farmland being damaged as part of SGSOC’s development.

Today, local community members are bringing a case against SGSOC, with hundreds of farmers accusing the company of failing to respect the “buffer zones” around their farmland.

SGSOC rejected these accusations, in a response to Greenpeace researchers.

A spokesperson for the company said: “In accordance with the company’s policy to comply with international standards, SGSOC uses the Free, Prior and lnformed Consent (FPIC) approach in each community it works with. Communities that do not wish to partner with SGSOC were entitled to deny the project access to their lands without the threat of repudiation or consequence. For example, 11 Bassosi villages including Babensi II were excluded from the SGSOC project because they rejected it.”

Indonesian development

Large scale palm oil operations were a feature of the region during the colonial era and people living in and around the Congo Basin have long had small scale farming and palm oil operations.

But the scale of SGSOC’s current project may represent the arrival of the Indonesia-style palm oil industry to the region.

Smallholders have been farming palm oil for decades in Cameroon. But the country has not seen industrial palm oil development seen in Indonesia. — Smallholders have been farming palm oil for decades in Cameroon. But the country has not seen industrial palm oil development like in Indonesia.

Indonesia’s rainforest has been ravaged for the last two decades by the poorly regulated palm oil and logging industry.

The huge forest fires that cause devastating pollution across South-East Asia each year have been blamed on practises linked to the palm oil sector, such as land clearance and developing plantations on highly flammable peatland.

Though the Congo basin does not have the same soil, the expansion of industrial palm-oil farming to the region could herald a sea-change in deforestation.

SGSOC first entered the country in 2009 as a subsidiary of United States agribusiness firm Herakles Farm, but has operated as an independent local corporation since 2015.

The company now faces an anxious wait, as its provisional lease to develop the 20,000 hectares runs out in November.

The Cameroon government will then make a decision about whether to cancel or extend the project. The international palm oil sector will be watching developments with interest.

It’s a no for Swaziland rhino horn trade proposal

EXTRACT FROM THE FOLLOWING THIRD PARTY SOURCE: WildAid

Parties to the UN Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) have voted overwhelmingly to protect rhinos by rejecting a proposal to legalise the rhino horn trade. The proposal submitted by Swaziland to legalise rhino horn trade was defeated 100-26 with 17 abstentions.

white-rhinoceros-ceratotherium-simum-charge-south-africa

Over the past decade, nearly 6,000 rhinos have been killed for their horns — primarily in South Africa, where 5,098 were poached between 2005 and 2015 to supply a lucrative black market.

Proponents of legal trade argue that they can tightly control the trade by limiting it solely to horn legally taken from living rhinos and legitimate stockpiles, and claim they will use the revenue to support anti-poaching.

But WildAid and other conservation groups have warned that legitimising the use of rhino horn by promoting trade can massively increase consumer demand in Asia for a product that is falsely claimed to cure cancer, hangovers and other illnesses.

WildAid CEO Peter Knights said of the vote: “Today, the Parties to CITES have overwhelmingly voted the right way on this issue. Far from protecting rhinos, a legal trade in rhino horn would have simply provided a mechanism for laundering yet more horn from poached rhinos into the trade. Demand reduction efforts in consumer nations, combined with improved enforcement in rhino range states, have a far better chance of reversing the rhino poaching crisis.”

WildAid also opposes “cultured” or bioengineered rhino horn because it risks perpetuating myths of rhino horn’s medicinal potency in Vietnam and China while making the product more socially desirable.

CITES votes against strongest protection for elephants

EXTRACT FROM THE FOLLOWING THIRD PARTY SOURCE: The Guardian

CITES meeting blocks proposal for a ban on all trade of ivory from four southern African countries with stable or increasing elephant populations – but passes other vital conservation measures.

Most African elephants already have the highest level of international legal protection – a CITES “appendix 1” listing – which bans all trade. But the elephants in Namibia, South Africa, Zimbabwe and Botswana, are listed on “appendix 2”, a lower level of protection. On Monday a proposal to add the elephants in Namibia, South Africa, Zimbabwe and Botswana to appendix 1 was defeated.

The EU played a pivotal role in blocking the proposal, which was fought over by rival groups of African nations.

But the Convention on the International Trade in Endangered Species (Cites), meeting this week in Johannesburg, passed other new measures for elephants that conservationists say will add vital protection.

All 182 nations agreed for the first time that legal ivory markets within nations must be closed. Separately, a process that could allow one-off sales of ivory stockpiles was killed and tougher measures to deal with nations failing to control poached ivory were agreed.

More than 140,000 of Africa’s savannah elephants were killed for their ivory between 2007 and 2014, wiping out almost a third of their population, and one elephant is still being killed by poachers every 15 minutes on average. The price of ivory has soared threefold since 2009, leading conservationists to fear the survival of the species is at risk.

The acrimonious debate over elephant poaching has split African countries. Namibia, South Africa and Zimbabwe, which host about a third of all remaining elephants, have stable or increasing populations. They argue passionately that elephant numbers are also suffering from loss of habitat and killings by farmers and that they can only be protected by making money from ivory sales and trophy hunting.

However, a group of 29 African nations, which host about 40% of all elephants and are led by Kenya and Benin, have smaller and plummeting populations and countered that poaching and the illegal trade in ivory is the greatest threat.

Critics said the proposal would do little to protect elephants as all international trade is already banned, but proponents argued it was a crucial signal to poachers and criminals of a global crackdown on the illegal ivory trade. Botswana has the world’s largest elephant population, about a third of all elephants, and it is growing. But it broke ranks with Namibia, South Africa and Zimbabwe and argued vehemently for appendix 1 protection.

Tshekedi Khama, Botswana’s minister of environment, said: “There is concerning evidence that elephant poaching is moving south. The criminal networks that facilitate much of this trade are highly organised and fluid, operating over several regions in the continent. Therefore no population should be considered secure. Put simply, a threat to elephants anywhere is a threat to elephants everywhere.”

The Cote D’Ivoire delegate said it was absurd to have some elephants on appendix 1 and some on appendix 2: “An elephant that crosses a border may have protection on one side and not on the other. Elephants do not have passports.”

Lee White, the British-born director of Gabon’s national parks and CITES delegate, said poachers were now shooting on sight at his rangers. The upgrading of all elephants to the highest protection would have sent “a signal that we will come down as hard on poaching as we do on the trafficking of drugs, arms and people”.

However, Namibia’s delegate threatened to withdraw entirely from CITES protections for elephants if all populations were upgraded to the highest levels. “It is completely fallacious that legal ivory trade covers illegal trade,” he said, a statement flatly rejected by other nations.

South Africa’s environment minister, Edna Molewa, said rural communities must benefit from elephants if they are to tolerate the damage caused to crops and the lives sometimes lost. “We dare not ignore their voices,” she said. “Trophy hunting is the best return on investment [in elephant protection] with the least impact.”

The EU, which with 28 votes is a powerful force at CITES, also opposed the upgrade to appendix 1. It said that CITES rules meant the highest level protection is reserved for populations that are in steep decline, and that this did not apply to the elephants in Namibia, South Africa, Zimbabwe and Botswana.

Some scientific and conservation groups agreed with this, including WWF, Traffic and the Zoological Society of London, arguing the integrity of the CITES was at risk.

The EU delegate to CITES said: “The proposal does not meet the biological criteria. [But] this does not mean in any way we are not concerned about the decline of elephants across the continent.” Several nations said cutting the demand for ivory, through education, and better enforcement against poachers was key.

The issue was forced to a vote and was defeated, leaving the southern African elephants on appendix 2. Earlier on Monday, Namibia and Zimbabwe had attempted to legalise the trade in ivory from those countries.

Namibia said its elephant population had doubled to 20,000 in the last 15 years. Charles Jonga, from the Campfire Programme, a rural development group in Zimbabwe, told the CITES summit: “The people in my community say: ‘These elephants they eat our crops, they damage our houses, what benefit do we get?’ If they get benefits, they will protect and not poach.”

But Patrick Omondi, Kenya’s delegate, said: “Poaching levels and trafficking in ivory are at their highest peak. History has shown the ivory trade cannot be controlled. We are reaching a tipping point and need to give elephants time to recover.”

Both Namibia’s and Zimbabwe’s proposals, supported by Japan but opposed by the EU and US, were soundly defeated. Observers believe Namibia, Zimbabwe and South Africa did not expect to unpick the ban on the ivory trade at this summit but wanted to keep the debate open, in the hope of future success.

Many conservation groups wanted all elephants to get the highest protection, but Tom Milliken, an elephant expert from wildlife trade monitoring group Traffic, said: “Where elephants fall on the CITES appendices is inconsequential to their survival. All the paper protection in the world is not going to compensate for poor law enforcement, rampant corruption and ineffective management.”

He said the real success of the summit was measures to crack down on countries failing to halt illegal trade.

But Kelvin Alie, at the International Fund for Animal Welfare, said the failure to put all elephants on appendix one was a disaster: “This is a tragedy for elephants. At a time when we are seeing such a dramatic increase in the slaughter of elephants for ivory, now was the time for the global community to step up and say no more.”

Countries fail to agree on complete ban to protect African lions from global trade

EXTRACT FROM THE FOLLOWING THIRD PARTY SOURCE: The Guardian

An attempt to ban all international trade in African lions, from trophy heads to bones, has failed at the CITES global wildlife summit.

Animal rights activists carry placards during an anti- canned-lion protest during the first day of the COP17 Cites conference in Johannesburg. Photograph: Kim Ludbrook/EPA — Animal rights activists carry placards during an anti- canned-lion protest during the first day of CITES CoP17 in Johannesburg ©Kim Ludbrook/EPA

African lions have shrunk to just 8% of their historic range, with only 20,000 left in the wild. About 1,500 a year are hunted as trophies, a practice that attracted global attention last year after an American dentist killed Cecil the lion with a crossbow in Zimbabwe.

Rising trade in lion bones to Asia, where such bones are replacing scarce tiger bones in supposed tonics, has raised fears of further declines. South Africa alone legally exported 1,200 skeletons – 11 tonnes of bones – between 2008 and 2011, the latest figures available.

But 182 countries at the Convention on the International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES), meeting in Johannesburg, were unable to agree on a proposal from nine African countries to ban all international trade in lion parts.

Instead, a compromise agreement banned only the trade in bones, teeth and claws from wild lions. Those coming from captive-bred lions will still be legally sold, although South Africa will now have to report on how many it sells each year. The export of trophies from lion hunting remains legal.

Tsekedi Khama, environment minister in Botswana, which backed a total ban, said: “It would be a very, very sad day when we are not able to show our children’s children what a lion looks like because they have been hunted into extinction or because we traded their body parts into extinction, and that we have taken no responsibility in managing the situation.”

A spokesman for the European Union, which helped broker the deal, said: “It is the nature of compromise that not everyone gets what they want.”

A delegate from Niger, one of the countries that proposed the total ban, said: “We continue to be concerned by the constant threat the lion faces. [But] we will accept the compromise.”

Zimbabwe has argued strongly for legal trade in lions and its CITES delegate said living with lions poses serious hardships for communities, as cattle and sometimes people can be killed by them.

“The coexistence of people and lions can only be protected by putting a value on lions,” the delegate said, “through eco-tourism and sport hunting, with the money ploughed back into conservation.”

Colman O’Criodain, from the World Wildlife Fund, said: “Discussions at CITES have shone a light on the lion bone trade, while a recent report highlights the use of lion bone as a substitute for tiger bone. WWF is very concerned about this trend and the recommendation to ban all trade in wild lion bone is a positive first step, but it does not go far enough. WWF believes that, as with the trade of parts of captive-bred tigers, the trade in bone from captive-bred lion keeps demand for big cat bone alive, and complicates enforcement efforts.”

Experts say any legal big cat bone trade gives the opportunity for traffickers to pass off illegal wild bones as legitimate.

Jimmiel Mandima, from the African Wildlife Foundation, had wanted a total ban and warned that lions were going extinct in numerous African countries. He said trophy hunting disrupted populations by targeting the biggest males.

Global trade in African grey parrots banned

EXTRACT FROM THE FOLLOWING THIRD PARTY SOURCE: News24

Delegates at CITES CoP17, a global wildlife conference, on Sunday voted to ban international trade in African grey parrots, one of the world’s most trafficked birds.

Prized for their ability to mimic human speech, the birds are a highly sought-after pet, but their numbers have been decimated in recent years by poaching and the destruction of their forest habitats. The Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) meeting in Johannesburg voted 95 to 35 in a secret poll to ban the global commercial trade of the parrot. CITES said the vote result would give the African grey the “highest level of protection” by listing it in Appendix 1, which outlaws all international trade in animals facing possible extinction.Dr Colman O’Criodain of conservation group WWF called the move “a huge step forward” in protecting the bird.”Fraud and corruption have enabled traffickers to vastly exceed current quotas and continue to harvest unsustainable numbers of African grey parrots from Congo’s forests to feed the illegal trade,” he said. “Banning the trade will make it easier for law enforcement agencies to crack down on the poachers and smugglers, and give the remaining wild populations some much-needed breathing space.”The International Fund for Animal Welfare (IFAW) estimates that between 2.1 and 3.2 million African greys were captured between 1975 and 2013.

Susan Lieberman of the Wildlife Conservation Society said the parrot had experienced, “significant population declines throughout its range in West, Central and East Africa.”

“It is extremely rare or locally extinct in Benin, Burundi, Guinea, Guinea-Bissau, Kenya, Rwanda, Tanzania and Togo,” she said in a statement.

“If this bird could talk – and it certainly can – the African grey parrot would say thank you.”

The CITES treaty, signed by 182 countries and the European Union, protects about 5,600 animal and 30,000 plant species from over-exploitation through commercial trade.

The 12-day conference, which ends on Wednesday, is sifting through 62 proposals to tighten or loosen trade restrictions on around 500 species.

Do or die – deciding the pangolin’s fate at CoP17

Written by: Hazel Friedman

September 28th 2016 will be remembered by many delegates attending CITES CoP17 as a bitter-sweet day for pangolins – an ancient species that has earned the unfortunate label of ‘the most trafficked mammal we have never heard of.’

After months of vociferous lobbying, conservationists succeeded in eliciting the unanimous support of 19 range countries to uplist the species’ status from Appendix II – which allows for restricted trade – to Appendix I – a total ban on all trade, except for scientific research. But the lifeline that been thrown to this troglodyte creature also constitutes an acknowledgement that other measures to save it have failed.

To date, the pangolin has remained under the radar of mainstream conservation campaigns, unlike the high profile marketing drives undertaken on behalf of elephant, rhino, tiger, leopard and lion. Not only is it extremely elusive – it is a nocturnal loner; funding shortages have also hampered research into its habitat and genealogy. Dan Challender, who co-chairs the Pangolin Specialist Group of the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) describes it as ‘the forgotten species’.

But this moniker has now changed, thanks to COP17. Although CITES was only expected to make its decision on the fate of the pangolin on 5th October – the final day of the conference – the unanimous vote meant that the uplisting of all 8 species was implemented immediately. Of the 8 species, four are from Asia and four are from Africa.

“We must embrace our endangered species as a country, continent and as the world, to speak in one, united voice,” says Ray Jansen, Chairperson of the African Pangolin Working Group (APWG) – a non-profit organisation established in 2011 to research, raise awareness and lobby for greater protection of the species. “We must show that pangolins are untouchable, that trade is a no-no. This requires removing demand and increasing stiff penalties for all wildlife crimes, in general, and pangolin trafficking, in particular.’

Although statistics on numbers of both African and Asian pangolins are unclear, conservationists and scientists point out that, based on seizures of pangolin scales and meat transported from Africa to Asia, over 1 million pangolins are estimated to have been poached in the last decade. The rate at which they are being slaughtered for scales and meat is therefore completely unsustainable.

Although the local market for pangolin still revolves principally around traditional healing, followed by a much smaller trade in bush meat, South African pangolins are being caught and trafficked by middlemen who regard this elusive animal, as a lucrative commodity. According to the Limpopo-based anti-poaching unit, Protrack, since the beginning of 2016, there were seven arrests in Limpopo, the province, alongside the Northern Cape, where the Cape Ground Temminck Pangolin – a species indigenous to Southern and South Africa – is most commonly found. Some of the arrests involved foreign nationals allegedly colluding with South Africans who were allegedly aware of the pangolin’s value as a lucrative commodity in the transnational trade.

“Although we have no idea how many pangolin are left in South Africa, if one does a risk assessment, it is necessary to err on the side of caution. This is because huge amounts of scales are leaving South Africa and the continent, which make the survival of the species unsustainable,” Says Rynette Coetzee, who is the Biodiversity Officer at the Gauteng Department of Agriculture and Rural Development.

For example in July this year, Hong Kong Customs seized over 4000 kilograms of pangolin scales hidden in a container labelled “sliced plastics” from Cameroon. This represents up to six thousand pangolins – the largest seizure of pangolin scales in five years.

Indeed Pangolin body parts have been used for centuries in both traditional Asian and African medicine. But it is evident that in Asia, especially China and Vietnam, pangolin scales are now being exploited for everything from fashion items to status symbols and the species is being eaten to extinction. The massive and growing scale of consumption has resulted in the dwindling of the Asian pangolin species. Inevitably, Africa has become the next port of call.

Conservationists have express enormous relief that all eight pangolin species have been uplisted. But to what extent this will be effective is debatable.

“The upgrading of the pangolin – as with all our endangered wildlife – can be effective, or it will be completely toothless,” warns the APWG’s Rob Bruyns. “As is the case with South Africa’s progressive conservation legislation, laws can be passed, but unless they are effectively implemented and enforced on the ground, they will have no effect on the illegal trade.”

Demand for rhino horn outstrips global supply

Written by: Barbara Maas, Head of Endangered Species Conservation at NABU International

Rhino poaching in Africa has been on the rise for a decade and reached a record high of 1,342 in 2015. Legalising international trade in rhino horn as a way to stop the killing is one of the hotly contested issues on the agenda of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) CoP17 currently happening in Johannesburg, with Swaziland’s proposal to trade in rhino horn to be heard on Monday.

A new study by NABU International highlights that even the global rhino population of just under 30,000 individuals is not nearly enough to meet demand. Opening trade in horn is therefore likely to further escalate poaching and hasten the demise of the world’s rhinos.

Almost seventy percent of the world’s 29,300 rhinos live in South Africa, which hosts CITES this year and has registered a strong interest in legalising trade in rhino horn. Rhino horn is highly prized in Vietnam and China, where it retails for up to US $100,000 per kilo on the black market, making it more valuable than gold.

“Trade advocates insist that ‘flooding the market’ with legal horn will price illegal traders out of the market and discourage poaching,” explains NABU International’s Dr Barbara Maas who carried out the research. “However, our study shows that this is not a realistic scenario, given the potential size of Asian markets and the limited amount of rhino horn available globally.”

NABU International estimates the total mass of rhino horn that is theoretically available from the world’s remaining 29,324 rhinos is 141,000 tonnes. By apportioning this amount to different market scenarios in the two largest consumer countries, Vietnam and China, using common doses prescribed in traditional Chinese and allied medicines (TCM), Maas identified a vast shortfall, even if only a few grams of horn are used. Her results show that a single prescription of three, nine or 50 grams administered to 3.8%, 1.3% and 0.2% of the adult population of China and Vietnam respectively, would require the horn mass of the entire global rhino population.

“Because the majority of privately rhino owners in South Africa are pushing for the legalisation of rhino horn trade, we also looked at how far their horn would go amongst Asian consumers. Our results show that ‘flooding the market’ with horn from these sources is not a credible option, even if a tiny single dose of rhino horn is used. Whichever way you cut it, there simply aren’t enough rhinos left on earth to risk legalising trade,” explains Maas. “It’s a dangerous gamble that could seal the fate of rhinos everywhere within a very short timeframe.”

NABU International suggests that rigorously enforced national and international trade bans combined with effective demand reduction initiatives are the only way to turn the current crisis around and prevent the rhino’s extinction.

Rhino horn consists of a protein called Keratin, which also makes up human nails or hair. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine for thousands of years to treat a large variety of ailments.

Although rhino horn has been shown to reduce fever in extremely high doses, it is less effective than Aspirin. Traditional Asian medicine also offers consumers a host of herbal alternatives. In the mid-2000s rumours of rhino horn as a cancer treatment began to sweep across Vietnam and China. There is no evidence from clinical research in traditional Chinese medicine or elsewhere to support this belief, nor is it documented or approved in TCM manuals.

Yet, this use of rhino horn has become one of the primary drivers behind the dramatic surge in rhino poaching. Chinese and Vietnamese consumers also use rhino horn is also used as a party drug to relieve hangovers, as a status symbol, and more recently as ornaments and jewellery or a hard-nosed investment.

“Rhino populations everywhere are under siege from poachers, illegal traffickers, national and international criminal cartels, corrupt officials and conservation community insiders, art collectors, status and pleasure seekers, medical patients and financial speculators intent on cashing in on the animals’ increasing rarity,” says Maas. They are killed even in some of the most heavily guarded areas, including South Africa’s flagship Kruger National Park. Making trade legal cannot be sustainable. It would open a flood gate that no one will be able to close again in time to prevent the last rhino from dying for its horn.

Video: Shocking evidence emerges of Japan’s dirty ivory trade

Written by: The Environmental Investigation Agency

New evidence of Japan’s failure to control illegal ivory trading at a time when Africa’s elephants face extinction is revealed in a damning report.

The report from the Washington, D.C.-based nonprofit Environmental Investigation Agency (EIA) reveals the identities of four Japanese ivory trading companies that offered to sell elephant tusks to undercover investigators for illegal export to China. The report, titled The Dirty Secrets of Japan’s Illegal Ivory Trade, also documents a 20-year history of broken commitments by Japan to enact effective controls to prevent poached tusks from being sold domestically or for illegal export.

The report follows shocking new elephant census data revealing a 30% decline from 2007 to 2014 in populations in 15 of 18 African nations surveyed. This amounts to an unsustainable 8% annual decline from intensive ivory poaching, which threatens the species’ long term survival.

EIA’s report is released as a critical meeting of 183 nations Party to the UN Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) is underway in Johannesburg, South Africa. Major proposals from Kenya and nine other African elephant range states, and one from the United States, aim to close domestic ivory markets of Japan and other Parties to help protect Africa’s elephants.

“Japan’s efforts to promote continued ivory trade while opposing the domestic ivory ban proposals is a slap in the face to the 29 African states seeking to end domestic ivory trade to protect their elephants ” said Allan Thornton, president of EIA. “It’s time for Japan to join the global efforts to protect elephants and to permanently ban its domestic ivory trade.”

The EIA report, The Dirty Secrets of Japan’s Illegal Ivory Trade, reveals:

– The identities and undercover video of four Japanese ivory companies that admitted to EIA investigators to conducting daily ivory sales to Chinese buyers and boasted of the vast amounts of ivory being illegally exported to China and Hong Kong.

– 30 of 37 Japanese ivory traders contacted by an undercover investigator offered to engage in some form of illegal activity to buy, sell, or fraudulently register a tusk that did not qualify for registration.

– Most of Japan’s ivory tusk imports dating from before the 1989 ban on international trade in elephant ivory were from poached elephants. As a result, the government’s tusk registration scheme is effectively a tool for granting amnesty to large quantities of pre-1989 poached ivory

– An influential report by the wildlife trade monitoring group, TRAFFIC, supporting Japan’s 1997 bid to reopen ivory trade found that Japan could not control ivory trade, but the conclusions were amended and supported Japan’s successful bid to reopen ivory trade.

The EIA report also reveals that, since 1997, Japan has consistently failed to enact CITES commitments to:

– Verify the legality of origin and acquisition of ivory tusks presented for registration, thereby enabling poached tusks to be legalised onto the domestic market with the widespread use of fraudulent declarations.

– Require registration and marking of cut ivory pieces over 1kg and 20cm in height or larger, making it impossible to track the trade chain of ivory.

– Enact “demonstrably effective” controls over worked ivory.

– Control unregistered ivory traders selling large amounts of ivory online shopping and auction sites like Yahoo! Japan and Rakuten Ichiba.

– Prevent illegal export of ivory to China, Thailand, and other nations.

“EIA investigations and research over the past 18 months demonstrate that Japan’s ivory control system is plagued by loopholes and undercut by weak legislation to such an extent that no meaningful control exists at even the most basic level,” said Danielle Fest Grabiel, EIA Wildlife Senior Policy Analyst.

Crafts, communities and and culture in Soutpansberg

In one of the many hidden valleys of the Soutpansberg in central Limpopo, you’ll find Fair Trade Tourism certified Madi a Thavha Mountain Lodge. A place where life and art, mirror people and place, where village life and rich culture blend to create a hip and happening rural style, and where guests are invited to join in on this glorious dance called ‘life’.

the-picturesque-soutpansberg-mountains-home-to-madi-a-thavha-mountain-lodge-madhi-a-thavha

And what makes this ‘life’ at Madi a Thavha special, are the sustainable relationships that they have built with their surrounding communities. Most of the staff is from the local community, with some being rescued out of a life of poverty. Like Paul Sephodi, an unemployed man who came to dig a hole for a septic tank – a two-week job that in the end lasted 11 years and has equipped him with skills that would make any handyman proud.

Alfred Ramolefo, who started out as the foreman on the farm, is now a qualified tour guide and Musa Matchume, the lodge administrator, with his passion for guiding tours and sharing his local and indigenous knowledge with guests. The tours offered at Madi a Thavha are anything but contrived and sterile – guests get to walk along dusty streets with traditionally painted homesteads, hear the melodious sound of children laughing and the tinkling of Nguni cattle bells. Experience rural life with its local hair-salons and spaza shops, visit a local school or community project and meet crafters and local artists in their rural workshops.

experience-the-sights-and-sounds-of-rural-markets-and-businesses-on-a-walking-tour-madi-a-thavha

One such crafter is Sophia Baloyi, a ‘gogo’ who is a master at creating traditional Tsonga beaded items. Together with her sister Lerisa, they create jewellery, beaded baskets, traditional calabash and walking sticks – all with a contemporary edge learned during workshops at Madi a Thavha. These workshops teach local crafters how to use heritage-based techniques and materials to make contemporary products that will appeal to tourists and interior decorators. Products, from 30 rural artists and crafters are sold at the craft art shop at the lodge.

a-tsonga-family-seen-outside-a-hair-salon-during-a-walking-tour-madi-a-thavha

some-of-the-wonderful-products-locally-sourced-and-sold-at-the-craft-art-shop-all-created-with-the-product-development-support-madi-a-thavha

One of the other popular stops on a tour is to visit Thomas Kubayi, a talented woodcarver, drum builder, musician and storyteller. His Vhutshila Art Centre is where guests can enjoy musical performances as well as woodcarving and music workshops, and a place where he imparts his knowledge of carving and traditional music to other local young artists, such as Pilato Bulala, a schoolboy who does scrap art living close to him.

funky-scrap-art-created-by-schoolboy-pilato-bulala-madi-a-thavha

It is heart-warming to visit the Vhutshilo Mountain School where many HIV positive and vulnerable children from extremely impoverished circumstances are cared for. Madi a Thavha also supports Vhutshilo in their quest for proper education, clothes, nutritious meals and health check-ups for the children and young adults, many of whom are orphans. In addition to this, an income-generating scheme for school leavers ensures that they are able to support themselves financially.

such-cuteness-at-the-vhutshilo-mountain-school-for-aids-orphans-madi-a-thavha

These are just a few of the rich experiences that represent Madi a Thavha’s integrated approach to ‘doing’ tourism. An approach that is in line with the principles of responsible tourism and that benefits the local community, and one of the key reasons for their Fair Trade Tourism certification.

Guests of Madi a Thavha Mountain Lodge leave with dust in their shoes, wonderful memories and a suitcase full of art and crafts – each of these with a special story that represents the life and traditions of the colourful people of the northern frontiers of South Africa.

Ivory trade mechanism rejected in heated debate at CITES conference

Written by: Adam Cruise

Yesterday Namibia, South Africa and Zimbabwe’s recommendation for the adoption of a Decision-Making Mechanism (DMM) for a future trade in ivory was roundly rejected by parties, led by outspoken opponents Burkina Faso, Kenya, Republic of Congo and Chad.

Negotiations over the plight of elephants began in controversial style yesterday at the 17th Conference of the Parties of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES), taking place in Johannesburg.

A proposal from the Secretariat to extend the mandate to the CITES Standing Committee to continue the debate on the Decision-Making Mechanism failed to achieve the required two-thirds majority.

In 2007, CITES initiated negotiations on a DMM for a process of trade in ivory, which could lead the way towards a reopening of international trade. Debate over the years became protracted and provoked considerable criticism.

The mandate for negotiation was renewed at CITES CoP16 in 2013, and a DMM Working Group established. However, despite extensive debate, no progress has been made to date on establishing such a mechanism.

“These discussions have been going round in circles for nine years without going anywhere,” says Will Travers, President of Born Free, a wild animal and conservation charity, “it’s time to kill this process.”

“If this mandate is not extended, it will die, it will be moribund,” said Jonathan Barzdo, Chair of the Committee discussing the issue. Although the mandate was not extended here this evening, the issue can be revived in the plenary sessions next week, but the mood among the delegations seems to be to swinging toward greater protection of elephants.

“The surge of feeling among African nations we’re seeing here tonight in the rejection of the Decision-Making Mechanism,” says Keith Lindsay, “is a reaction to what they’ve seen happening in their countries – they’ve seen their elephants being wiped out and it’s time to put a stop to it.”

Earlier a report by the CITES Secretariat for the Monitoring the Illegal Killing of Elephants (MIKE) disputed the findings of a recent paper by the National Bureau of Economic Research (NBER), which finds a clear link between the legal one-off ivory sales that took place in 2008 and the current poaching crisis that has seen a third of Africa’s elephants wiped out.

The MIKE claim was immediately challenged by a number of CITES member nations as well as conservation NGOs.

Uganda declared the MIKE report flawed, echoed by both Kenya and the NGOs Humane Society International and the Amboseli Trust for Elephants, which suggested that the MIKE analysis lacked transparency, consultation and a necessary peer review to make its claims legitimate and that the authors of the NBER report had in fact answered MIKE’s criticisms.

“The lesson of the NBER study is inescapable,” says Iris Ho, Program Manager, Wildlife for the Humane Society International, “a legal trade, or even talk of one, is a risk that we cannot afford to take.”

Israel went further with its criticism stating: “The MIKE program is not fulfilling the function it was set up to do.” The overall goal of MIKE, according to the CITES website, is to provide the information needed for elephant range states to make appropriate management and enforcement decisions. That MIKE, according to the Israeli delegation, won’t recognise the clear link between the one-off sales and the current poaching crisis hampers efforts to effectively combat the scourge.

There were, however, some nations that welcomed the MIKE report. Speaking on behalf of all SADC countries, South Africa’s Minister for the Environment, Edna Molewa, said they “supported the claim that there is no evidence between the one-off sales and the poaching crisis.”

However, Molewa admitted there was a dramatic spike in poaching in Kruger National Park in the last three years. In 2013 the first elephant in 10 years was poached for its tusks. “This year alone,” she said, “36 have been slaughtered.”

The US delegation noted this with concern and pointed out that the increase in poaching was fast approaching the CITES biological criteria of a decline of 50% over three generations, which requires greater protection in the form of a status uplisting for elephants under CITES recommendations.

Currently, elephants in South Africa are classified under Appendix II, which provides for a possibility of trade in ivory.

An uplisting to Appendix I would provide the highest standard of protection for elephants and would send a clear message to markets that all commercial ivory trade is prohibited. Currently, elephants in South Africa are classified under Appendix II, thereby facilitating a future one-off sale of ivory around the world.

Patrick Ormondi, head of Kenyan delegation, says, “29 African countries are calling for the highest protection of African elephants, and it seems we are getting much support from other member parties from around the world.”

All about the Kruger to Canyon Biosphere Region

Written by: Lindsey Jones

The World Network of Biosphere Reserves currently has 669 sites, including 16 trans-boundary sites, in 120 countries all over the world. South Africa is home to eight Biosphere Reserves, with the Kruger to Canyons Biosphere Region declared by UNESCO in 2001.

The Kruger to Canyon Biosphere Region, located on the western border of Kruger National Park, in the north-eastern part of South Africa, covers about 2.6 million hectares, encompassing both protected areas (conservation) and agricultural lands, as well as rural development, urban development, mining and forestry. It spreads across three major biomes; savannah woodlands, Afromontane forests and grasslands.

all about the kruger to canyon biosphere region — Keeping a watchful eye on rhinos ©Wynand Uys

Although this biosphere represents only 1.4% of South Africa’s total land surface, it contains nearly 75% of all terrestrial bird species, 80% of all raptor species, 72% of all mammals, 50% of all butterflies and 50% of all frog species found in South Africa. It is also home to seven endemic frogs and two endemic reptiles found only on Mariepskop – the Mariepskop dwarf chameleon and the Mariepskop flat gecko.

Famous tourism hotspots include Kruger National Park, God’s Window, Bourke’s Luck Potholes, Pilgrim’s Rest and the Blyde River Canyon. The Blyde River Canyon is the third largest canyon, as well as the greenest canyon in the world. In addition, the Kruger to Canyons Biosphere is home to the largest privately owned conservation area in the world.

Ballooning over Blyde River Canyon ©Wynand Uys

The biosphere reserve was established with the aim of bringing stakeholders in the area together for collective impact. The Kruger to Canyons landscape aims to promote and demonstrate a mutually supportive relationship between people and nature. This is done via a number of strategic objectives, including the implementation of socio-economic development initiatives to support sustainability and climate change adaptation, supporting institutions engaged in research, education and training, and partnering with government agencies to promote compliance to environmental laws and regulations.

A map of the Kruger to Canyons Biosphere Region

In partnership with Wildlands, a variety of NPO’s in the area are working on a Tree-preneur and Waste-preneur programme. The Tree-preneurs care for indigenous trees that are then bartered for food parcels. The Waste-preneur programme works on various recycling projects in the communities. Through the Working for Water Programme various teams of community members are also employed to remove alien vegetation and assist with issues of erosion. The trees, received from the Tree-preneurs, are then used to replant in areas where alien vegetation has been removed.

The beautiful landscape of the Kruger to Canyons area ©Wynand Uys

Another notable project, managed by the Kruger to Canyons Biosphere Region, implemented by the SANParks Biodiversity Social Programme, and funded by the Department of Environmental Affairs, sees over 260 environmental monitors hosted with various organisations throughout the Biosphere. One group focuses on educating communities on environmental issues, while another group focuses on security in protected areas and are divided into those that are armed and unarmed, most notably the all-women Black Mamba Anti-Poaching Unit in Balule Private Nature Reserve.

Members of the Black Mamba Anti-Poaching Unit

The project has had a significant impact not only on socio-economic status and skills development, but also on creating greater awareness of why conservation and environmental issues are so important in the rural communities adjacent to protected areas.

To learn more, watch the following video:

Read more about the Kruger to Canyons Biosphere Region and its programmes and partners on their website here.

Read more about Kruger to Canyons in this travel diary.

The legal racketeering of ivory

The history of the ivory trade since the colonial era paints a depressing picture about the fate of elephants. Between 1860 and 1920 roughly 33,000 tonnes of ivory were shipped from Africa to the British Empire – the equivalent of 1.1 million elephants.

Approximately 100,000 elephants were slaughtered per year in Africa from 1850 to 1929 to supply ivory to companies in the USA that manufactured piano keys and billiard balls from ivory. In 1916 Americans even hung a circus elephant called Mary who mauled her keeper to death. 13 years earlier Thomas Edison captured his highly publicised electrocution of an elephant on film.

The Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) is a multilateral treaty to protect endangered plants and animals. It was drafted as a result of a resolution adopted in 1963 at a meeting of members of the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN). The convention was opened for signature in 1973, and CITES entered into force on 1 July 1975. Its aim is to ensure that international trade in specimens of wild animals and plants does not threaten the survival of the species in the wild, and it accords varying degrees of protection to more than 35,000 species of plants and animals. CITES is an international agreement to which countries adhere voluntarily. There are currently 183 members.

The triennial Conference of the Parties (CoP) of CITES takes place in Johannesburg from 24 September to 5 October 2016. This will be the seventeenth time members will convene since CITES was established in 1975. All commercial international trade of ivory from elephants is presently prohibited under CITES.

It is estimated that there were about 5 million elephants in Africa at the turn of the 19th century. In 1979 there were approximately 1.3 million elephants in Africa and by 1989 the numbers declined to 600,000. The Great Elephant Census released its results in September 2016, proving that only 352,271 savannah elephants survive in sub-Saharan Africa. Forest elephant populations have crashed by 60% since 2002, now counting less than 60,000.

Since 1999, CITES approved two “one-off” sales of ivory. In 1999, 50 tonnes of ivory were sold to Japan for a meagre US$5 million. China’s inexcusable reputation as importers of illegal ivory prevented it from buying in the 1999 sale (all went to Japan), but China did participate in the 2008 sale after TRAFFIC representatives investigated and approved the so-called effectiveness of Chinese controlling mechanisms. This did not deter ivory smuggling to China. Between 2012 and 2014 over 41 tonnes of smuggled ivory were confiscated in China.

In 2008 Botswana, South Africa, Zimbabwe and Namibia were again allowed by CITES to complete once-off ivory sales, selling 108 tonnes of ivory at an average price of US$157 p/kg for only US$15.5 million. Records of how these funds were ploughed back into conservation are not available on the CITES website.

At the time, CITES issued a press release stating ” Elephant populations of the four countries are in Appendix II of CITES, which means that, even though they are not necessarily now threatened with extinction, the trade in their products is strictly regulated. Recent studies concluded that over 312,000 elephants live in these four countries and that their number has increased in recent years.” Earlier this year Namibia claimed to have over 20, 000 elephants. Adding the very recent results from The Great Elephant Census, these four Southern African countries today have about 261,000 elephants, which is a 16% decrease equal to 51,000 elephants (7,200 per year) since the 2008 sale.

The 2007 African agreement stipulates that no new proposals for further sales from the four countries concerned are to be considered by CITES during a resting period of nine years, commencing as soon as the new sales have been completed.

CITES, MIKE and ETIS

The Elephant Trade Information System (ETIS) is a comprehensive information system to track illegal trade in ivory and other elephant products. It aims to record and analyse levels of illegal trade. Monitoring these statistics started as far back as 1997. It has become a well-established and effective tool for monitoring illegal trade in elephant products.

The Monitoring of Illegal Killing of Elephants (MIKE) is another division of CITES (far more expensive than ETIS) that was created in 1997 to provide further reports and information to CITES at each meeting of the Conference of the Parties. MIKE assists in the dialogue between CITES members and facilitates the decision-making processes of CITES. It also provides elephant range states with data to assist with the management and enforcement decisions for the long-term management of their populations of elephants.

In her 2002 book Policing International Trade in Endangered Species: The CITES Treaty and Compliance, Rosalind Reeve mentions that the projected cost for the first six years of MIKE was conservatively US$13.4 million. MIKE faced criticism from several countries when India and Kenya commented that funding should rather be used for the prevention of elephant poaching than the establishment of expensive Rolls Royce programmes for monitoring elephant populations. Reeve comments: “..it is questionable whether the human and financial costs of ETIS and MIKE, all to satisfy the desire of a handful of parties to trade in one commodity from one species, can be justified, especially given the limited funds available to CITES. Elephants are the “flagship” species of CITES, spending such vast sums on verification and monitoring without attempting to raise equivalent funds for preventative anti-poaching measures detracts from crucial issues such as improving the capacity for enforcement of CITES at national level.”

The Context

In early September 2016, over 6,000 delegates attended the IUCN congress in Hawaii. More than 90% of members voted against all future domestic ivory sales by adopting Motion 007. Several countries voted against motion 007 namely Japan, South Africa, Thailand, Vietnam and Namibia. (South Africa and Namibia threatened to resign from the IUCN).

In 2015 the presidents of the USA and China undertook to impose a near total ban of ivory trade. Hong Kong has committed to phasing out the ivory trade over the next five years. However, South Africa, Namibia and Zimbabwe have submitted proposals to CITES to re-open discussions at CoP17 surrounding the Decision Making Mechanisms for the ivory trade.

On the opposing side, 29 African states formed the African Elephant Coalition and have submitted proposals to CITES for consideration at CoP17 to upgrade all African elephants to Appendix I (countered by South Africa, Namibia, Zimbabwe) and to agree to close all domestic ivory trade. The European Union, WWF and CITES are rejecting both these opposing proposals.

Ivory burns

Ivory destructions are a popular and contentious method for nations to publicly assert their opposition to the illegal wildlife trade. Since 1989 about 20 of these events have taken place all over the world. These countries have openly declared war on ivory smuggling and that wildlife crimes will not be tolerated. So far over 220 tonnes of ivory have been destroyed. WWF and TRAFFIC want the destruction of ivory to be monitored by rigorous documentation and audits to reduce the risk of leakage into the black market.

A third “once-off sale” and re-opening discussions of the ivory trade

Firstly, why even call it a once-off sale? The previous sales were supposed to flood the market. Since then, African elephants have reduced by 30%, or 144,000, with over 30,000 elephants being killed for their ivory every year.

South Africa’s stockpile of ivory is 65 tonnes. Assuming South Africa, Namibia and Zimbabwe collectively held as much as 200 tonnes, the stigma of buying ivory will restrict bidders to a few Asian buyers. Latest studies have shown that the price of ivory has dropped from US$2,100p/kg to US$1,100p/kg. Should an optimistic auction price of US$300 p/kg be achieved, the sale could gross about US$60 million, less the enormous costs associated with the auctions. Historically CITES is unable to control if funds from approved ivory sales are ploughed back into conservation efforts and not racketeered by the corruption so prevalent all over Africa.

Some individual philanthropists have single-handedly donated US$24 million to conservation in Africa. Funds raised from the ivory sales in 1999 and 2008 are infinitesimal if compared to the conservation finance funneled to the African continent. It is time to donate conditionally in return for guaranteed ivory destruction by those minority African nations determined to re-open the trade, regardless of the international condemnation and abhorrence evidenced at the IUCN conference in Hawaii, when more than 90% of members voted in favour of a domestic ban across all nations.

South Africa’s Department of Environmental Affairs has an approved budget of US$9 million to host the CoP17 of CITES in Johannesburg from 24 September to 5 October. Over 3,000 delegates from 183 member countries, NGOs and international media will attend. Costs of delegates’ flights, accommodation, salaries etc. will again amount to millions. Expenses at the recent IUCN congress would have been much more due to 6,000 delegates in attendance. Since the establishment of CITES, ivory trade has been discussed ad infinitum in boardrooms and conference halls around the world. Donor funding in lieu of ivory destruction will obviate the need for further onerous record keeping of tracking sales, certificates and inventories of legal sales versus parallel illegal markets, channeling these funds rather prudently into combatting wildlife crime.

Conclusion

Will the world witness another round of dubious, unkind and immoral decisions taken at Cop17? At this juncture of civilization, leaders need to grasp that geographic borders do not bestow ownership of sentient animals whose boundaries have been created by mankind. Besides the threat of habitat destruction caused by global warming, civil war, population explosions, hunting and poaching, the elephant cannot be hung in conference halls like yesteryear. Arguments by minority CITES members who want to trade ivory because elephants reside in their borders are ignorant of fiscal intelligence. Future generations will be dumbstruck when studying history that illustrates amorphous political agendas in the conservation world, where ignorant politicians yielded power and influence over transitory officials for the sake of paltry dollars.

Kgalagadi versus Kruger

Calm down; I can practically hear you screaming at me already! I know, I know, the two parks cannot, and perhaps should not, be compared. But the truth is that I cannot get the red dust of the Kalahari out of my one shoe while my other foot is still firmly planted in the land of the Kruger-holics. So I do find myself comparing the two. And, as South Africa’s biggest national parks – both of which claim transfrontier status and are popular amongst local and foreign visitors alike – I am sure I am not the only one who weighs up the options when faced with two weeks of annual leave. To Kruger or Kgalagadi? So recently when faced with that impossible either/or decision, I did what few men dare and spent a week in each, and here is my comparison like it or not.

greater-kruger-samuel-cox — Another beautiful day comes to an end in the Greater Kruger National Park ©Samuel Cox

My experience

Kgalagadi
To compare apples with apples, I stuck to the SANParks camps on the South African side of the park and divided my time equally between Twee Rivieren, Mata Mata and Nossob. We camped in true Kgalagadi style and, while I am still finding sand in many a crevice, it is the way to go. A cold spell during our time in the park in August meant that temperatures at night reached a chilly -9°C and that, despite popular opinion, mornings and evenings were not necessarily the best time for sightings.

The silence, vastness and unexpected beauty of the landscapes are what stand out from my trip. The image of a wildebeest left dying alone at a waterhole, while a jackal awaited his imminent demise and an oryx stood guard over his body, is forever etched in my memory as a symbol of this land of contrasts and of life and death in a magical desert.

A lone jackal has the waterhole to himself ©Samuel Cox

Kruger
It is not humanly possible to cover all that Kruger offers in a week. From walking safaris to rustic bush camps, 4×4 trails, golfing, and a host of accommodation options, Kruger has it all. That said, I am a firm believer that a visit to the Kruger is best enjoyed slowly. Take it easy, make yourself a base at one of the exquisite rest camps, and indulge a little.

A region where nature meets hospitality and a connection between man and beast reigns supreme

So with this in mind, I divided my time between some of the popular camps in the south of the park to get a taste of what the average visitor experiences. While not everyone’s cup of tea, I like that I can stop for a great steak and a glass of wine at one of the modern restaurants in the rest camps and that well-tarred roads and little loops mean I can return to the shop easily when the need for ice cream calls. By doing it this way, there was always something new to gawk at around every corner, and a host of picnic spots and places to stretch my legs – and it was these simple comforts that stood out from my trip.
The image of an elephant taking a morning drink at the waterhole outside the rest camp while I sipped on my cappuccino is etched in my memory as a symbol of this region where nature meets hospitality, and a connection between man and beast reigns supreme.

What you can expect to see

Kgalagadi
Big cat sightings in the Kgalagadi are incredible. The wildlife densities are lower than in Kruger, which means that you can drive for a couple of hours with little more than some oryx, springboks and wildebeests to keep you entertained. But when you do see big cats, the sightings are pretty spectacular. Talking to fellow red-dust fanatics in our campsites, stories ranged from cheetahs climbing trees and four tiny cheetah cubs playing, to big black-maned lions causing a roadblock and an entire pride lazily lapping at the waterhole. My big cat sightings included spending time alone with a leopard for about half an hour, a cheetah calling consistently while we followed it at a leisurely pace, and a lion causing heart palpitations right next to the fence at Nossob Rest Camp.

A juvenile gabar goshawk is just one of the many birds of prey that you could spot ©Anja Denker

Everyone we met in the Kgalagadi was also mad about birds in some way, and raptors are a sheer delight in this part of the world. Much to my mom’s dismay, there was a bird of prey around every corner. Still, even her non-birder self eventually learnt to appreciate just how close you could get to a martial eagle or spotted eagle-owl in the Kgalagadi.

With this in mind, Kgalagadi is a treat for photographers, thanks to its relaxed wildlife, majestic light, fewer cars and spectacular scenery. Smaller animals are also always around to entertain and provide great subjects on which to test your photography skills and camera settings. From meerkats and ground squirrels to whistling rats and sociable weavers, which astound with their gigantic nests on virtually every tree, you will always find an interesting subject at which to point your lens.

Four cheetah cubs make everyone’s day in the Kgalagadi! ©Cornell Nortier

Kruger
Great for first-time safari-goers, it is not uncommon to see the Big Five in one day in Kruger – be it on a self-drive or guided safari. Apart from the famous five, Kruger is home to an impressive number of species – including almost 2,000 plants, 147 different mammals and 517 bird species. Some of the more interesting animals, which a fair amount of people have been lucky to spot, include wild dogs, bushbabies, aardwolves, aardvarks, pangolins, and roan and sable antelopes.

The wide variety of animal species and high density of game means that a safari in Kruger offers something new every day – even something new around every corner – and it is precisely this that calls people back to this great land time and time again. From crocodiles and hippos to elephants and rhinos, zebras and giraffes, Kruger is also great for bucket-list tickers, first-time safari-goers or families with small kids.

My trip to Kruger included close-up sightings of elephants, rhinos, cheetahs and lions – all either just off the road or directly in our way, although we weren’t asking them to move. The majestic leopard continues to elude me when I visit the park; however, a quick two nights in the Sabi Sand, which is part of the Greater Kruger ecosystem, meant I got my spotted fix.

Photographic opportunities were limited in the park itself as sightings were often shared with a fair number of other vehicles, but this is the price you pay for staying in the south during the busy season. If you venture further north on roads less travelled, or on foot on one of the walking trails, you’ll probably find that sightings are much more rewarding. By experiencing Kruger on foot, I have had male lions all to myself, have come face-to-face with elephants, and have watched hippos take to the water at a spot that can’t be reached in a vehicle.

A zebra fight in the Kruger ©Corlette Wessels

Which park is best for you?

Kgalagadi
The Kgalagadi is fantastic for camping enthusiasts, as the three South African rest camps are spacious and ideal for extended braais with gin and tonics in hand. On the Botswana side, no fences mean that lions licking your tent or hyenas coming to see what’s on the menu is not uncommon, and this connection to the wild is one of the many reasons that people return time and time again.

There are several more sophisticated accommodation options, such as the wilderness camps of Urikaruus and Kalahari Tented Camp, and a few lodges are available for those that don’t like roughing it, such as the community-owned Fair Trade Tourism certified !Xaus Lodge, and Ta Shebube’s Rooiputs and Polentswa lodges on the Botswana side. The new ‘riverfront chalets’ at Mata Mata are also lovely, overlooking the dry riverbed where wildebeest and springbok graze peacefully and jackals dart around at night.

However, camping is arguably why most people come to the Kgalagadi, and 4×4 trailers and rooftop tents are the way to fit in with the crowd. The Kgalagadi is best suited to those who like to kick back, relax and feel the desert breeze in their hair, don’t mind a little sand in their sheets, and enjoy a time that stands still and a silence broken only by the sound of a lion roaring.

The Kgalagadi camps do offer some guided 4×4 trails, safari walks and the usual game drives. We enjoyed three night-drives during our trip, which gave us the chance to spot lesser-seen nocturnal creatures, such as bat-eared and Cape foxes, spring hares, owls, genets and African wild cats. But I found the real joy of the Kgalagadi to be taking long, slow, sandy self-drives. However, do be warned that the corrugated roads cover patches of deep sand that are best navigated in a capable 4×4, as the guy stuck in his Renault Clio and the woman crying in her Toyota Corolla buried up to its chassis, will attest.

bat-eared-fox-kgalagadi-samuel-cox — A scruffy bat-eared fox in the Kgalagadi stares at the camera ©Samuel Cox

Kruger
One thing I love about the Kruger is the versatility that it offers. When budgets are tight, you can camp, caravan or hire a cheap room in one of the rest camps or a B&B just outside the park gates. But if you are celebrating something special or feel like a splurge, several private game lodges both within the park and in the private game reserves that make up the Greater Kruger region are on offer to cater to your every whim. This makes Kruger ideal for a wide range of travellers, be it honeymooners who want to be wined, dined and pampered, or families with young kids that want short bursts of game drives followed by a place where children can run free and parents can catch a nap in the heat of the day. The Kruger National Park rest camps also offer easy access to restaurants, shops and facilities, and this easy DIY-style of holiday is what makes the park appeal to a wide range of travellers.

Kruger also offers several road conditions, from main tarred stretches to dusty dirt roads. It also provides the chance to book guided game drives or even head off on a 4×4 eco-trail in the park. And while you may feel like a dinky car when face-to-face with an elephant in your rental Kia Picanto, it is quite possible and comfortable to enjoy Kruger in almost any vehicle. With accessible routes to follow and places to frequently stop, be it to enjoy a skottle breakfast, indulge in a decadent lunch or get out to take in the view, the Kruger National Park can be enjoyed in a multitude of ways.

For those that are ‘Krugered-out’ or ‘have done Kruger’ I recommend you take a trip to one of the quieter camps in the picturesque northern section of the park, enjoy a night sleeping out in a hide, book on the mountain bike trail at Olifants, or take a walk on the wild side with some of the best guides that you could ever have the pleasure of meeting on a backpacking trail.

Crossing borders

Kgalagadi
Transfrontier parks have been established so that animals can roam freely across invisible boundaries, and natural migration can take place. It’s about ecosystems taking pride of place over geological or political boundaries; promoting collaboration between the countries involved. This also allows us humans to roam free to some extent and, within the boundaries of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, one can travel between South Africa and Botswana – without the need for a passport. Granted that one can’t exit into the surrounding countries (with the small exception of a tiny farmstall on the Namibian side outside Mata Mata to which you can quickly walk to pick up a gemsbok fillet for dinner).

Kgalagadi, at nearly 38,000km², is larger than many countries and one of the largest national parks in the world. It was officially declared a transfrontier park in 2000, making it the first of its kind in Africa. It is a combination of the Kalahari Gemsbok National Park in South Africa and the Gemsbok National Park in Botswana. The park is bordered by the peaceful countries of Botswana and Namibia and, with few settlements existing on the park boundaries, conservation efforts are embraced by all. The communities around the park are often made up of those that work in the park itself, so things like bushmeat poaching are a non-issue. While human-wildlife conflict occasionally raises its head when lions manage to breach the park’s boundaries, the communities seem willing to call those in charge to correctly handle the matter, rather than taking it into their own hands.

Part of the park is owned by the local Khomani San and Mier communities, and the local community is allowed to use the land for cultural purposes. It is on this land that the Fair Trade Tourism certified !Xaus Lodge can be found.

©Fair Trade Tourism — Local members of the community play an active role in conservation efforts ©!Xaus Lodge, Fair Trade Tourism

Kruger
The boundaries of the Kruger National Park cover nearly two million hectares in wild space. The national park was established in 1898 and, while talks for the declaration of a transfrontier park started in 1990, it was not until 2002 that the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park was made official.

The Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park links the Kruger with its neighbours – the Limpopo National Park in Mozambique and Zimbabwe’s Gonarezhou National Park, Manjinji Pan Sanctuary and Malipati Safari Area. This conservation area also includes two areas between Kruger and Gonarezhou, namely the Sengwe communal land and the Makuleke region. This project joins some of the most beautiful and essential wildlife areas into a vast conservation area of over 37,000km². It is just the first phase in a plan for a larger transfrontier conservation area that will measure almost 100,000km².

With turbulent political climates in these countries, it is no secret that rhino poaching has ravaged the park and elephant poaching is on the rise. But it may only be through working together that these remaining wilderness areas are protected. With a memorandum of understanding between Mozambique and South Africa being implemented, we are now seeing coordinated law enforcement operations, management efforts, joint training initiatives and anti-poaching work across borders.

What this also means is that visitors are now offered several cross-border tourism experiences. In 2013 a wilderness walking trail in the Pafuri area was launched, and visitors can now cross easily from Kruger National Park in South Africa to Limpopo National Park in Mozambique – opening up a shorter route to the beautiful Mozambican coastline and that perfect bush and beach break.

Thanks to cross-border agreements and experiences, hopefully, the only way is up for the Kruger’s wildlife ©Ross Couper.

How to get there and what to do in the surrounding area

Kgalagadi
Stock up on food and water in Upington as the shops in the park are minimal. Be sure also to fill up here and take extra jerry cans for fuel, as while there are petrol stations at each of the three SANParks camps within the park, the fuel within the park can be unreliable. Upington is 255km away along a pleasant tarred road and is home to the nearest airport. Airlink flights from Johannesburg or Cape Town are available frequently, and from here you can hire a vehicle or book a transfer or tour with a company like Tata Ma Tata tours, which specialises in trips to the Kgalagadi and the surrounding areas.

A trip to the Kgalagadi can be combined with one of the other arid region national parks based nearby. Combine your trip with an adventure into Namibia to see the Quiver Tree Forest and to the /Ai/Ais Richtersveld for a dip in the hot springs and to take in the views over the Fish River Canyon. The Augrabies Falls National Park is also easily reached from Upington and offers the ideal overnight stop before heading down to see the flowers in Namaqualand and onwards along the coast to Cape Town.

Enjoy the best of two countries in one park! ©Ryan Avery

Kruger
Airlink flies from Cape Town or Johannesburg to Nelspruit KMIA or directly into the park via Skukuza’s airport, which I recommend. Car hire is available from either of these airports and, with some towns close to the various park gates and well-stocked shops within the rest camps, self-catering for your trip is super easy. The bigger rest camps are also home to some well-known restaurant franchises like Mugg & Bean, Cattle Baron and Wimpy, and the picnic sites either offer skottle facilities or little take-away spots for the peckish.

For those looking for a bit of luxury, private game reserves like the Sabi Sand, Manyeleti, Klaserie and Timbavati share open borders to the national park and form part of the Greater Kruger National Park ecosystem. You can even take a lodge link flight from Nelspruit KMIA or Skukuza directly to the door of one of the stunning Sabi Sand lodges like I did at Arathusa where I touched down to a leopard on the runway.

For accommodation options at the best prices visit our private travel & conservation club to view our collection of camps and lodges. If you are not yet a member, see how to JOIN below this story.

About the author

Janine is passionate about wildlife and conservation, and she comes from a long line of biologists, researchers and botanists.

SANParks responds to Kruger off-takes

EXTRACT FROM THE FOLLOWING THIRD PARTY SOURCE: Written by: Lesley Nyawo, Public Relations Assistant at SANParks – Kruger National Park

The large herbivore biomass is currently the highest ever in Kruger’s history – with +- 20,000 elephant, 47,000 buffalo, and 7,500 hippos – which results in significant changes in habitat.

Buffalo and hippo are drought-sensitive species, and previous droughts in Kruger National Park have shown population declines of up to 50%. The buffalo population is at higher densities than previous droughts, so it is, therefore, expected that the population will incur huge losses during the current drought. If the numbers that remained after the previous droughts in the 1990s for buffalo and hippo are considered (14,000 and 2,000 respectively), significant mortalities are anticipated. Hippos and buffaloes are the largest grazers with the highest biomass and impact on habitats. The purist way of allowing natural attrition to take its course is not always ecologically the best, especially if populations are unnaturally high due to man-made influences.

Removals will be focused on alleviating pressure on sensitive areas in the park e.g. removing hippo from small natural pools where they have concentrated in unnaturally high densities and defecate in the water, making it unusable for other animals. These hippos generally originated from man-made dams that dried up and now populate small natural pools in large numbers.

Culling, cropping, harvesting, ecological removals, sustainable resource use are all terms that have been used. If the term culling in your book means controlling the size of these populations, that is not what SANParks is doing. The numbers are also not cast in concrete, purely as it is not possible to determine how the situation will unfold as the drought further develops. However, the numbers will be kept very low (between 0.5 and 1% of the respective populations).

Logistically it will not be possible to remove higher numbers now, and ecologically it will not be suitable to remove unsustainably high numbers in future. In view of the huge populations of these large herbivores and the mortalities we have already observed amongst buffalo and hippo this year, as well as the anticipated mortalities later in the year, these numbers to be removed are not significant at the population level.

The current drought is being noted for its unprecedented impact on human well-being with an estimated 22 million persons in Southern Africa in need of some assistance. SANParks cannot remain oblivious to this issue. Kruger National Park is, therefore, planning to use the opportunity to sustainably harvest in the region of 350 animals during this drought in order to test different models for meat distribution to disadvantaged, low-income communities on the border of the park. The Kruger National Park will be targeting quintile primary schools, part of the National School Feeding scheme and will use these drought-related removals as an ad hoc opportunity to share benefits with communities.

In light of veterinary regulations with regards to foot and mouth disease, the park will be testing the feasibility and suitability of cloven-hoofed animals products permitted to leave the park, which include: break-dry biltong (BRB) and well-cooked meat (WCM). A secondary objective of the removals will be assessing genetic selection for fitness during droughts and the interactions between disease and drought.

This is not a “sneaky reintroduction of culling by SANParks” as put by some. Kruger National Park is managed according to an approved management plan that makes provision for both biodiversity management and sustainable resource use. Part of the process of drafting this plan was an intensive public consultation process. It is practically not possible to consult the public on each and every management action implemented. A new round of revisions of the Kruger National Park Management Plan has started and will come in full swing in the year 2017. The public is encouraged to register and take part in this process.

Celebrating culture at the Kuru Dance Festival

The Kuru Dance Festival is an annual cultural event where different San groups from Botswana, Namibia and South Africa come together to celebrate and share their rich cultural heritage of storytelling, song and dance. Written by: Bakang Baloi

Dancers gather at the Dqae Qare Farm in the village of D’kar just outside Ghanzi in Botswana. The heat, the dust, the clapping and the rhythmic stamping of feet all add to an intensely spiritual experience.

Different dances are performed to tell the life story of the San people. There are hunting and gathering dances, rite of passage, puberty and courtship dances and, of course, trance healing dances. Hunting dances are dramatic renditions of the hunt – from spoor recognition to the ultimately slaughtering the animal. They celebrate a successful hunt and pay reverent respect to Mother Nature. The Kuru Dance Festival is about these dances.

Rites of passage dances welcome a young woman into adulthood and marriage. A young woman experiencing puberty for the first time is said to be suffering from the ‘eland illness’ and is secluded. The eland symbolises femininity, fertility and good health. In her seclusion the young woman is ritually painted in red ochre, wood ash and charcoal, all mixed together with animal fat and plant pigments. Puberty dances are demure, coquettish and playfully seductive. Males taking part in the dances enact the mating behaviour of eland bulls by sniffing the female folk, grimacing in mock ‘Flehman display’ and emulating the mounting action of bull animals.

Khoi-San healers or shamans are spiritual custodians for the community who intervene with the ancestral spirits and other venerated forms on the community’s behalf. They intercede with all of creation to heal the community, to request good weather and successful hunting trips or to foretell future events. They perform trance healing rituals to propitiate the ancestors. Even though performances of healing dances may be done during the day, a real healing ceremony is conducted at night. Night time is the mythical part of the day when the universe vibrates with sacred energy.

Kruger cull: a bad idea?

One of the basic principles of wildlife management is that large game reserves require less intensive management than small ones. This concept is very applicable when discussing the ecological management of the Kruger National Park.

The ecological impacts of disturbances have a far greater effect on smaller reserves than they do on larger ones. For instance, if a fire burns 5,000 hectares of a 10,000-hectare game reserve, that is a major impact that needs to be managed. However, the same 5,000-hectare fire in Kruger (2 million hectares) is negligible and will have almost no impact. This concept can be applied to all spheres of ecological management – the impact of overgrazing, elephant impacts, diseases, water availability etc.

To say that the Kruger National Park is fenced and, therefore, needs to be micro-managed is incorrect – Kruger is a large enough system that is able to withstand the majority of ecological impacts originating inside its borders – and that includes elephant impacts and the effects of drought.

The majority of species in Kruger occupy fixed home ranges or territories, and historic migrations outside of Kruger were limited to mainly wildebeests and zebras (elephants undertake long-distance movements by nature and this is not a migration). Most of the areas where zebras and wildebeests used to migrate to in spring have now been re-included into the Greater Kruger ecological system (Klaserie, Timbavati, Sabi Sands etc). Therefore, to say that their migration routes have been cut off is incorrect. Unfortunately, migrations back into these areas are unlikely to occur – mainly because of vegetation changes during the period that they were isolated from Kruger (again an example of the size effect). With the current drought, one does not find herds of animals massing along the boundaries of Kruger to escape.

Another important point is how savannahs are maintained in nature. Savannah is a unique biome where there is an uneasy “co-existence” of woody plants and grass. This system is continually developing (vegetation succession), and in Kruger, given the opportunity, the system would progress into a woodland thicket. Ecological disturbances are essential in reversing this natural progression from mixed woodlands to woodland thickets. In other words, savannahs thrive on disturbances – it maintains not only species diversity but also productivity. Disturbances such as fire, drought, elephants, buffaloes and hippos, among others, are critical in reversing the slow and steady progression to a woodland thicket, which would offer far less habitat for animals and also far lower biodiversity of all major taxons.

Climate change is also a major contributory factor to this progression (higher levels of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere encourage the more rapid growth of woody vegetation). Savannahs need constant disturbance to create niches for species that would not be there if the effects of those disturbances were restricted.

So, to all those people supporting culling of animals in Kruger, please reconsider your viewpoint – sure, it is not a pleasant sight to see animals dying during a drought. Sure, it is a waste not to use those carcasses to feed people, but how much meat will you get off the carcass of a dying buffalo anyway?

There are ecosystem processes at work during a drought that are critical for the efficient functioning of the ecosystem – in good times and in bad. Let those ecosystem processes do their job!

Leopards: The Cats of the Shadows

The spiked mountain range of uKahlamba in South Africa is often called the barrier of spears. Also known as the Drakensberg, which translates to ‘dragon mountains’, its high, jagged peaks shadow a cave hidden in a sandstone cliff. The cave once concealed creatures that stirred only with the setting sun – leopards.

To reach the animal’s hide-out, a hiker must scale Solar Cliffs and Cathedral Peak and pass through Ndedema Gorge. Not everyone survives the journey.

A modern sign near the cave’s entrance announces it is ‘Closed’ as if its dweller had served notice. The inhabitant was a leopard, its lair called Leopard Cave.

Near this opening in the Earth is a rock painting of a leopard chasing a bushman who escaped to return another day to tell his tale in art.

The leopard likely had good reason to give chase and eventually vacate the premises. Its species, Panthera pardus, has been overhunted and harassed and lost much of its habitat and its prey.

A blind spot in conservation

Smallest in the genus Panthera – of which lions, tigers, and jaguars are also members – leopards (Panthera pardus) once lived from Siberia to South Africa.

But the cats have relinquished as much as 75 per cent of their range, according to a paper published in May 2016 in the scientific journal PeerJ. The study — sponsored by the National Geographic Society’s Big Cats Initiative and conducted by its scientists and others affiliated with the Zoological Society of London (ZSL), Duke University, Panthera (an international cat research and conservation organisation), and the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Cat Specialist Group — is the first to produce a comprehensive analysis of leopards’ status across their entire range and for all nine subspecies.

The PeerJ co-authors found that leopards long ago occupied a vast range of approximately 35 million square kilometres throughout Africa, the Middle East and Asia. Today, however, leopards are restricted to about 8.5 million square kilometres. In Africa, range loss varies by region – as much as 99 per cent in North Africa, 86 to 95 per cent in West Africa, and 28 to 51 per cent in Southern Africa.

The scientists created the most detailed reconstruction to date of the leopard’s range, says paper co-author Peter Gerngross, a cartographer at the Austria-based mapping firm BIOGEOMAPS.

The biologists reviewed more than 1,300 sources to derive the leopard’s historic (post-1750) and current range.

“Contrary to the pervasive impression of the leopard as one of the most widespread, adaptable and resilient carnivores,” the researchers reveal in their paper, “our calculated range loss exceeds the average range loss for [17 species of] the world’s largest carnivores.”

The results confirmed conservationists’ suspicions that leopards are losing the battle against a many-headed threat – habitat loss and fragmentation, human population density, conflict with livestock-keepers and game-keepers, loss of prey, killing for the illegal trade in skins and parts, and, in some areas, unsustainable but legal trophy hunting.

“Our results challenge the conventional assumption that leopards remain relatively abundant and not seriously threatened,” says paper author Andrew Jacobson of ZSL. “The leopard is an elusive animal, which is why it has taken so long to recognise its global decline.”

“The cat’s status is more grave than previously understood.”

Because of that downturn, the cats are currently listed as “Vulnerable” by the IUCN. According to Andrew Stein, a member of the group and co-author of the PeerJ paper, the organisation’s Cat Specialist Group recently recommended a change from Near Threatened to Vulnerable. “The change signals to leopard range countries that the cat’s status is more grave than previously understood,” he says. “It begins a process of deeper evaluation, including calls for greater protection and intensified regulation of trade and trophy hunting.”

Philipp Henschel of Panthera, also a paper co-author, adds that “a severe blind spot has existed in the conservation of the leopard, especially in North and West Africa. The international conservation community must support initiatives protecting the species. Our next steps will determine the leopard’s fate.”

Leopard findings

Leopards are part of what’s called the large carnivore guild, which includes lions and hyenas. An ecological guild is a group of species that exploits the same resources. “The large carnivore guild is mostly intact in protected areas,” says South African National Parks biologist Sam Ferreira. “These are the places where leopards still thrive and have relatively large populations.”

Results of a camera trap survey Ferreira conducted in the N’wanetsi concession in Kruger National Park in 2008 led to an estimate of 19 leopards in a 150 square kilometre area. He and colleagues published the results in 2013 in the African Journal of Ecology. The biologists continue using camera traps to study the park’s leopards.

Next door at the Sabi Sand Game Reserve, biologist Guy Balme of Panthera is working with safari guides at more than 20 lodges to track leopards. “Because of the large number of vehicles in Sabi Sand and the reserve’s long history of protection,” says Balme, “leopards have become habituated to game drives.” Guides are familiar with the leopards in their areas. “Their unique spot patterns can distinguish individual leopards,” says Balme, “so we’ve been able to monitor their fates over time.”

Biologists and safari guides have tracked more than 600 leopards over the last 37 years through the Sabi Sand Leopard Project. The results align with Sabi Sand’s protected, stable leopard population.

Across the continent in West Africa, however, the news isn’t as good. From 2009 to 2012, Henschel led big cat surveys in 21 of the region’s largest protected areas. His team’s efforts were rewarded – to some degree. “We found leopards in seven of the 21 areas,” he says, “but only one of these populations numbered more than 100 individuals.” Fewer than 500 breeding-age leopards may remain in the entire West African region, Henschel believes.

He and Luke Hunter, president of Panthera, and scientists at the U.K.’s University of Oxford and other institutions, have identified another threat to Africa’s leopards – competition with bushmeat hunters for the same food source.

Their research, reported in the Journal of Zoology, took place in the rainforests of the Congo Basin. It shows that bushmeat hunting is likely responsible for a dramatic drop in leopard numbers in the Congo. Leopards have vanished without a trace in the most over-hunted of the project’s sites.

“A critical part of protecting big cats and their landscapes is documenting the presence and behaviour of wild cats using camera traps,” says Hunter. “Panthera’s motion-activated cameras collect hundreds of thousands of wildlife images every year. With help from the public, we can analyse these photos to identify the animals shown, enabling us to track wild cat population trends over time and determine what conservation actions are needed to protect these species better.”

A leopard takes in the stillness of the night in the Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya ©Alison Buttigieg

Survival instincts

Wherever leopards manage to eke out a successful living, they do so by stealth. They’re camouflaged by their spots, blending into the dappled shade of trees and rock piles.

Leopards are also furtive in other ways. They mainly come out at night. By day, studies have shown, leopards hide in dark recesses such as caves. In hot, dry environments, leopards use caves to escape high temperatures. “Leopards are secretive predators, making use of caves as retreats, feeding places, and breeding lairs,” states palaeontologist Charles Brain in his book, The Hunters or the Hunted?: An Introduction to African Cave Taphonomy.

In South Africa, scientist Darryl de Ruiter of Texas A&M University discovered one such leopard cave in Malapa Nature Reserve. “In contrast to the ‘leopard in the tree’ idea that these cats cache their kills most often in large tree branches,” says de Ruiter, “they may well prefer to use the deep recesses of caves,” as vultures, hyenas and lions, which might steal a leopard’s kill, usually won’t enter, and caves may give leopards the ability to store larger prey. Most caves in the Highveld area of South Africa have trees growing in their entrances. “Nonetheless,” says de Ruiter, who published his findings in the Journal of Archaeological Science, “leopards haul carcasses into caves, avoiding trees entirely. In our study, 83 per cent of the cached carcasses were in caves, and only 17 per cent in trees.”

A leopard comes out of its cave hideaway ©Corlette Wessels

A look at the future

Our ancestors may have been intimately familiar with leopards, ancient cave paintings in Europe tell us. But a question asked by biologist Theodore Bailey in The African Leopard: Ecology and Behavior of a Solitary Felid remains: “Will wild leopards survive to evoke the admiration of our far-away descendants as they once did our distant ancestors?”

Recently reported sightings of erythristic, or ‘strawberry pink,’ leopards in South Africa’s Lydenburg region of Mpumalanga may be an indication. Scientists recently reported in the journal Bothalia: African Biodiversity & Conservation that “the presence of this rare colour morph may reflect the consequences of [leopard] population fragmentation.”

Leopards can survive in human-dominated landscapes if they have enough cover, access to wild prey, and acceptance by local people. But in many areas, leopard habitat has been converted to farmland, and native herbivores have been replaced with livestock.

Scientists believe it is mostly a matter of developing tolerance to leopards’ presence. Leopards are usually quiet neighbours and, in many locations, they’ve long-lived among us. However, successfully sharing the same territory will take some adjustment on the part of humans. Livestock owners, for example, may need to develop new ways of guarding their herds.

“It’s not asking too much of people to give thought to the welfare of these cats,” says Stein. “Leopards badly need the reprieve.”

About the author

Ecologist and science journalist Cheryl Lyn Dybas, a Fellow of the International League of Conservation Writers, fell in love with Africa and its savannas at first sight. She lives in the U.S., outside of Washington, D.C., and also writes on Africa and other subjects for National Geographic, BioScience, Natural History, National Wildlife, Scientific American, Oceanography, The Washington Post, and many other publications. She is a featured speaker on conservation biology and science journalism at universities, museums and other institutions. Eye-to-eye with the wild is her favourite place to be.

A Savuti fishing leopard in action

We were on safari in the Savuti, Chobe National Park in Botswana during the winter months when the Savuti Channel had been reduced to a series of small pools. We knew about Savuti fishing leopards thanks to a BBC documentary we had watched, so we waited close to the waterhole where a leopard had recently been spotted in the hope of witnessing a fishing feline. Written by: Marco Ansón

And then we saw her. There were catfish in the waters, but when we saw the leopard move to the pool’s edge, we initially thought she would just have a drink.

However, the leopard surprised us by slowly entering the water pool. Time stood still for us as we watched, and she seemed to take a long time to make her way steadily further into the shallows.

Everything was silent. Then suddenly, the leopard dunked her head into the dark pool and, as fast as lightning, caught a catfish (barbel) in her mouth!

She left the muddy waters quickly and came close to our vehicle to rest in the shade and eat her catfish trophy. We couldn’t believe our luck!

Watch the video of this fishing leopard here:

More about that Savute safari

Savute is the remote western section of Chobe National Park – far away from the shores of the Chobe River. Abundant wildlife – including lions that specialise in hunting elephants during the dry season – congregates along the Savute channel, which empties into the Savute Marsh.

The Savute River was dry from the late 19th century until it flowed some 75 years later in 1958, only to dry up again periodically for years and even decades. The dry savannas are dotted with rocky outcrops where ancient humans left their ochre drawings. Book your Savute safari here

A prehistoric giant of the oceans – the leatherback turtle

nesting — Leatherback turtle © Bart Lukasik

Seven species of sea turtles are roaming our world’s seas and oceans. Four of them regularly visit the east coast of Southern Africa: the hawksbill, loggerhead, green, and the species which is both the most impressive and elusive, the giant leatherback turtle.

All sea turtles undertake long, perilous journeys to return to the beaches where they hatched to lay their eggs. Leatherbacks – the largest of all living turtles – break all the distance records. They live in open water and can travel across the ocean in pursuit of the best jellyfish feeding grounds, which they prey on. The resultant round-trip to nesting grounds can be up to 6,000km.

To accomplish such journeys, leatherbacks have developed a hydrodynamic, teardrop-shaped body. Their carapace is covered with oily skin to further reduce drag, unlike other sea turtles with bony scutes or external plates on their carapace. This immense body can grow over two metres in length and weigh between 250 and 700 kg on average, although a weight of 900 kg has been recorded.

Leatherback turtles are propelled by the largest flippers of all sea turtles – the flippers can reach 2.5 metres in length. They allow the leatherback to achieve considerable speed needed to traverse long distances, which unfortunately no scuba diver can match. Sightings of these turtles underwater are few and far between, especially as these turtles do not favour coral reefs and only pass through to get to the beaches, where they nest and lay eggs.

It is fair to say that meeting one while scuba diving is rated among the rarest sightings of marine life. Even if you are lucky enough, it will most likely be a fleeting moment, as you do not stand a chance of catching up with a swimming leatherback.

You can, however, see them on one of the northeast coast beaches of South Africa, like Sodwana Bay and St. Lucia in Isimangaliso Wetland Park. During nesting season, which takes place in the summer months in South Africa, leatherbacks can be spotted, mostly at night, laying eggs in the beach sand across many kilometres of local beaches. Find your environmentally responsible turtle watch operator and meet one of the last living dinosaurs of our time.

Facts about leatherback turtles:

1. Leatherbacks feed almost exclusively on jellyfish. They often mistake plastic bags floating in the ocean for food, which can be fatal by blocking digestion tracks. Segregate and recycle your plastic waste to avoid contributing to this unnecessary threat.

2. They are the fastest-moving reptiles of all. Their average speed can reach 10km/hr with bursts up to 30km/hr.

3. They inhabit all subtropical and tropical waters and have been seen even in the waters of the Arctic. The open ocean is their main habitat; they only move closer to land during nesting season.

4. A female leatherback lays about 100 eggs in every clutch. The nest’s ambient temperature will determine the sex of hatchlings (baby turtles) – hotter nests will produce more females and cooler ones will be more male dominated.

5. Male leatherbacks will stay in the open water their whole lives, while females will periodically return to their nesting regions to lay eggs.

Wüstenquell in Namibia offers unique rock formations for photographers

Wüstenquell is a private nature reserve just outside Karabib in Namibia. Its abundant rock formations make it one of most spectacular locations for any landscape photographer, providing you with a show of beautiful panoramics of the desert along with its fauna and flora.

Situated on the edge of the Namib desert, within the misty region of the Atlantic Ocean, Wüstenquell is surrounded by huge granite rock formations, crystal clear running springs and a large variety of succulent and desert plants.

There is no other place in the world with the same amount of these type rock formations per km². There are three different types of granite weathering which mainly consists of feldspat, quarz and glimmer.

We take a closer look at some of these formations below:

1. Wollsackverwitterung – underground weathering

During the damp climate period of the Tertiär, water entered and dissolved the granite along its gaps and chasms. Later the result of this weathering came to the surface resulting in some truly unique looking rock formations.

2. Desquamation – physical weathering

Physical weathering is caused by flat, shell moulded plates that have burst off the rocks due to temperature changes. This can be found fairly easily around the farm house.

3. Tafoni – chemical weathering

Chemical weathering causes ball or kidney shaped cavities. They vary in size from only a few centimetres up to half a metre in diameter. Some of these so called ‘weathering crusts’ form stunning rock overhangs. It was this form of weathering that gave Wüstenquell its unique symbol, the Adlerfels (Eagles Rock).

The reserve is also home to springbok, oryx, ostrich, kudu, warthog, leopard and numerous smaller animals and birds.

Hiking in these beautiful formations is an adventure on its own. For the inquisitive, there are also some caves to explore, complete with bushmen art and much more.

With the beautiful clear skies Namibia has to offer, night photography is an absolute must when on the reserve. When planning your compositions , you can make use of not only the rock formations but the unique quiver trees that provide you with beautiful textured foregrounds. Wüstenquell is worth a visit by any aspiring photographer.

Kruger to Canyons

Hoedspruit is my favourite safari gateway town to the Kruger National Park in South Africa. With several private Big 5 game reserves neighbouring the town and the spectacular Blyde River Canyon nearby, it is located in a fantastic stretch of paradise, known as Kruger to Canyons. This is a wonderfully diverse safari destination for those who prefer to mix up their game viewing with cultural and adventure activities. During my recent week in the area, I sampled some of the many activities and lodges available – and I left already planning my next visit!

blyde-canyon-photography-des-jacobs — The beautiful Blyde Canyon is a photographer’s dream ©Des Jacobs

Watch this short video of Simon’s week in Kruger to Canyons

Mountain bike migration

The main reason for this particular trip to the area was to participate in the second edition of the K2C Cycle Tour – an annual 95-kilometre mountain bike fundraising tour from the Kruger National Park to the Blyde River Canyon, passing through various private game reserves on the way.

Eighty lucky cyclists of all levels undertook this epic journey for the soul, split into five groups, each accompanied by two armed cyclist guards and a backup vehicle. For safety reasons, this isn’t a race, which means that the pace is slow and the attitude laid-back – we frequently had to stop and gently navigate our way past herds of elephants, buffalos and even the odd snorting rhino!

Rotary Hoedspruit organised the event superbly, and the many tables in rest areas along the way groaned under the weight of delicious snacks, water and energy drinks. The tables were staffed by sponsors who cheered us on and encouraged even the most lethargic to keep going. I highly recommend this superb event and encourage anyone interested to contact the organisers soon about the next edition.

A group effort on the K2C cycle tour ©Simon Espley

On safari in Kruger to Canyons

Once the cycle tour had ended, there were still plenty of other fantastic reasons to stick around in the Kruger to Canyons area for a few days, and I didn’t need any convincing. I happily headed back into the bushveld – on four wheels this time – and was blessed by the gods of safari luck on a three-hour game drive that would impress even the most seasoned safari-goer. Back at the lodge afterwards, beverage in hand, I explained to the wide-eyed American couple that the last three hours did not constitute a typical game drive, which can sometimes consist of nothing but the odd impala and turtle dove. But I fear my advice fell on deaf ears, as the next two days produced regular Big Five encounters and plenty of action!

Following elephants on safari in a private game reserve ©Villiers Steyn

Rather than attempting to re-hash my three days in the bush, here is an extract from my travel diary:
Makanyi Lodge, Timbavati Private Nature Reserve. Guide: Warren ‘Woza’ Jacobs

18 July 2016, 17h30
A herd of elephants surrounds us, very relaxed, then a young female just a few metres away gives us horns for no reason – ear-clapping and a big attitude before she changes gear and wanders off as if nothing happened. My companions giggle nervously and breathe out, and we are on our way again.

18h30
Damside sundowner drinks – surrounded by 11 rotund lions as they relax, satiated after gorging on a two-day-old buffalo carcass. Three rhinos trot by to slake their thirst before snorting off into the fading light. A massive herd of buffalos on the far bank drinking and kicking up dust – must be a thousand-plus thirsty bovines. Lions not interested – #FlatCats. Then a buffalo bellows in the dark distance and hyenas cackle excitedly. The largest male lion is up and running, very focused. So are we, engine gunning and flashlight darting, searching. Ten minutes later and the bellowing and whooping are intense – then we smell blood. Up ahead, we see hyenas mauling a buffalo, tearing chunks off the struggling bovine. But hold on, what’s that? With her back to us and watching the ruckus intently, is a leopard – also drawn by the noise and promise of a meal. Then all hell breaks loose – the lion arrives, full of piss and brandy, and the leopard bolts, as do the hyenas after the largest collects a smack from the boss cat. Lion slaps the buffalo around before clamping down on its throat, ends the suffering. A second male lion arrives, chases off the lingering hyenas and settles down to feed – fat belly and all.

19 July 2016, 07h00
Three lions from a rival pride – we watch as the two big blonde boys take turns mating with the lady, while she switches from flirty and coy to angry slapping and guttural growling after each session.
Klaserie Sands River Camp, Klaserie Private Nature Reserve. Guide: Andre ‘AK’ Kruger

19 July 2016, 16h30
Surrounded by 18 lions near a buffalo carcass – another large pride! Some are crunching the last few ribs. Most are feral-looking young males – pushed out by the dominant males further north? We drive a few kilometres away for sundowners, displacing a large male leopard chillaxing on the same riverside rocks.

20 July 2016, 11h15
A herd of 30 elephants drinking at the waterhole in front of the lodge deck. Downing my last lime and soda, I tear myself away, load up the rental car and head out – only to spend 30 minutes waiting in the shade of a mopane grove for the same herd to move off the road. A few enormous bulls surround me and linger, tossing ear-claps in my direction now and then and kicking up dust – they seem to enjoy keeping me waiting. I don’t fancy my chances if these six-tonne behemoths pull rank on my tin can car. No worries, no rush. Eventually, they move off, and so do I, on to the next adventure.

lion-buffalo-carcass — A buffalo feast fit for a king in Klaserie Private Nature Reserve ©Simon Espley

Kruger2canyons — Simon watches elephants paying a visit to Klaserie Sands River Camp ©Simon Espley

Make your visit count

As enticing as the wilderness can be, no matter where my travels take me, I always try to connect with local people as they go about their daily lives. I enjoy visiting people in their villages and homes – obviously with their permission. And so, on my Kruger to Canyons safari, I spent time with Prince Nkuma, the manager of Shik Shack. This organisation arranges community tours and Nourish, an upliftment project with a strong wildlife focus for community children.

Prince is a gem, and his fascinating insight into how the local folk relate to wildlife and poaching had me captivated for hours as we strolled around Sigagula, his hometown on the Orpen Road approach to Kruger. We even hired a donkey cart to visit local homes to taste homemade peanut butter, umqombothi (local beer made from maize), and to visit a sangoma (traditional medicine man) who threw bones to look into my soul. We also visited a home to attend a short dance and eat a humble meal consisting of fried chicken, morogo (wild spinach), roasted groundnuts and pap (a soft starch dish made from corn/maize). Dancing was performed by young girls who were all smiles in pursuing this passion.

If you’re ever in the area, I encourage you to support this and similar causes with your patronage and donations. The Kruger to Canyons area is dotted with cultural villages, farms, curio markets and community-run restaurants that are well worth your support.

Birding and Blyde

The Kruger to Canyons Biosphere houses three significant biomes, which means that it’s not only the bushveld that attracts animals and tourists to the area, but the forests and mountainous regions found around Hoedspruit are also well worth exploring. On my final days in the area, I went up Mariepskop – one of the highest peaks in the northern Drakensberg – with a community guide to go birding, but we had thick mist, so I only took a few pictures and some video footage.

Marieskop is unique in that it is home to over 2,000 plant species and, with the Kruger to Canyons region holding up to 75% of all terrestrial bird species and 80% of all raptor species found in South Africa, it is one of the best places in the world for twitchers. I also flew like a bird myself in a microlight flight with Leading Edge Flight School over the canyon and took in the spectacular views of a place that earns its name as the Panorama Route.

mariepskop-birdwatching-simon-espley — Birding in Mariepskop with Abednigo ‘Bedneck’ Maibela ©Simon Espley

A few weeks later Africa Geographic’s general manager (at the time), Janine Avery, also explored the rKruger to Canyons area. Here is an extract from her travel diary from her day out in paradise.

Panorama Route. Guide: Hans Swart

10 August 2016
Gazing out onto the natural formation of the three rondavels, named so because of their hut-like appearance, I can’t think of a better place to spend my birthday. The world’s third-largest canyon falls at my feet and, despite a simmering haze and the harsh drought that has ripped the colour from the landscape, I still feel a sense of awe. A boat putters along the Blyde River below me as my enthusiastic guide regales us with tales of adventures, discovery, gold miners, pilgrims and a small town that had electricity before the streets of London – a town that I am promised serves the best Mampoer milkshakes and to which I look forward to indulging in later. Off to my left a Google’s Street View Trekker with a unique contraption on his back, which resembles a soccer ball housing multiple cameras, dances alongside a villager selling curios. Her deep and bellowing “Shap, Shap” is echoed by his American accented version and his clumsy footing as he attempts a bootie wiggle that can’t compete with hers. Their fun-loving antics tear my attention away from the majestic views as I stroll over to add yet another culture to the mix…

Simon continues…

Where to stay in the Kruger to Canyons area

Makanyi Lodge, Timbavati Private Nature Reserve

Makanyi Lodge is an extremely luxurious lodge set in south Timbavati, with excellent game viewing throughout the year. Every attention to detail has been considered, and every comfort provided. The outside shower is probably the best of many I have enjoyed, thanks to its views over the nearby waterhole. I departed knowing that I needed to bring my wife here on my next visit, as she is very inclined towards safari chic.
Food and service were top drawer, as was the guiding. I shared game drives with a mad bunch who had adopted our guide Warren Jacobs, renaming him Woza, and the hilarious banter blended with the unparalleled wildlife viewing!

Relaxed pool deck vibes at Makanyi Lodge ©Simon Espley

Tanda Tula, Timbavati Private Nature Reserve

Tanda Tula consists of an exclusive lodge and a seasonal tented camp in the heart of the Timbavati Game Reserve, part of the Greater Kruger. Spending a night in a starbed rising your safari – sleeping high up on a wooden platform while being serenaded by lions, hyenas, Verreaux’s eagle owls and ground hornbills – features high on my list of incredible experiences that I have had in Africa. Their field camp is also one of the unique experiences found in the Greater Kruger area – an authentic glamping experience.

tanda-tula-safari-camp — Make the most of the Timbavati at Tanda Tula’s Safari Camp ©Tanda Tula

Umlani Bushcamp, Timbavati Private Nature Reserve

Umlani Bushcamp is another Timbavati classic. Your safari in a rustic rondavel at Umlani will feel like a family affair, thanks to hearty communal meals served under the African sky. This down-to-earth safari camp runs mainly on solar power, and you’ll be made to feel at home in no time at all.

Outside the Greater Kruger?

Many people choose accommodation outside the Greater Kruger boundary and enter the park each day for game drives, either in their own vehicle or with a guide. I was lucky enough to spend a night at some of these lodgings.

Wild Olive Tree Camp

Wild Olive Tree Camp is a rustic and affordable community-owned tented camp a few kilometres from Kruger’s Orpen Gate and a few hundred metres from the gate to Manyeleti Game Reserve. It’s a basic but charming camp for independent travellers. The Wild Olive team arrange game drives into the park or reserve if you don’t have your own wheels. The camp runs on solar power and gas showers, with battery charging at reception. The tents will probably get very hot during the day in the summer months (when you would probably be out and about), but during my visit in mid-winter, they were just right. Meals are served in a communal dining tent, and service was excellent, and the smiles wide. This new community endeavour is well worth supporting.

Blyde Canyon, a Forever Resort

Blyde Canyon, a Forever Resort, is one of the only accommodation offerings in the canyon itself, and its views of the Three Rondavels are even better than at the main tourist viewpoints. The resort is the ideal overnight stop for guests exploring the Panorama Route before venturing into Hoedspruit and heading towards Kruger. The accommodation offerings are also expansive, with camping and caravan options and large self-catering units that appeal to families. With a putt-putt course, trampolines and a large pool on site, the little ones will be entertained while you try to protect your braai from the cavorting troupes of vervet monkeys.

Unembeza Boutique Lodge

This popular lodge is located within the Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate – a stunning location that places you on the doorstep to the town and its variety of exquisite eateries, while still providing the feeling that you are in the bush with resident warthogs, kudus and bushbucks running around. Unembeza provides the perfect base from which to explore the surrounding area. The lodge management is always around to offer advice and assistance with your day’s plans without intruding to the privacy and peace of quiet the lodge offers. The affordable rooms are a breath of fresh bush air, and each suite is decorated with class and simplicity.

kruger-unembeza — Enjoy the sleek setting of Unembeza Boutique Lodge ©Unembeza Boutique Lodge

Go on a two-wheeled safari at Unembeza Boutique Lodge in the Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate ©Unembeza Boutique Lodge

About the author

Simon Espley is an African of the digital tribe, a chartered accountant and CEO of Africa Geographic.
He is a seasoned African traveller – walking, driving, boating, cycling, horse riding and flying his way in pursuit of true wilderness and elusive birds.

Simon’s love of mountain biking meant he was off up to Hoedspruit to participate in the annual Kruger2Canyons mountain bike tour, so it made sense for him to explore this region on his own two feet and on two wheels.

More dogs for Kruger’s canine unit

For most visitors, the deep grumble of a lion roaring or the high-pitched whooping of hyenas epitomise the nightly noises of Kruger National Park. But on my recent trip to Kruger, it wasn’t these iconic sounds that woke me up in the dead of night; it was the synchronised howl of four domestic dogs – members of the canine unit.

bloodhound-kruger — A bloodhound/doberman cross ready for his close up.

I was privileged enough to spend the night away from the tourist camps at Kruger’s newest addition – the K9 Centre. Those four howling dogs were young bloodhound/doberman crosses, excited at the prospect of their future working life in South Africa’s premier national park.

The dogs, now just over a year old, have been brought up as working tracking dogs and having just finished their training at the centre, they were ready to be handed over to their respective section rangers to get to work. I was at the centre to see the great work being done behind the scenes to get these dogs out and working in Kruger. The canine unit is now a vital component in the war against poaching. These dogs join a formidable team of attack dogs, contraband detection sniffer dogs and other tracking dogs like themselves.

canine-unit-bloodhound — A handler sits alongside Kilalo – the latest addition to Kruger’s canine unit. The handler’s face is blurred to protect his own identity.

They were trained by the capable Gaven Holden-Smith of Holden-Smith Tracking and Conservation and donated to Kruger thanks to funding from Star Project in San Francisco and Wuppertal Zooverein in Germany.

But the truth is it is not all cute and cuddly puppies or dramatic grenade launchers and helicopters in the world of anti-poaching. Sometimes it is the day to day stuff that these organisations need. Hence why, on the day of the dog handover, the K9 Centre also received donations of a high-pressure cleaner from Karcher, LED spotlights for the section rangers from MSC LED Lighting Solutions, alongside chains, harnesses, bite suits, mattresses, grooming brushes, transport boxes, dog bowls, materials for new kennels and Hills dog food all organised by various regions of the SANParks Honorary Rangers.

Members of the SANParks Honorary Rangers at the hand over ceremony. — Members of the SANParks Honorary Rangers at the handover ceremony.

safari-guide-of-the-year — Safari Guide of the Year, Jaco Buys, with Badger – a beloved tracking dog.

But perhaps the most interesting initiative that stood out for me was one pioneered by Casterbridge Animal Hospital in association with the Lowveld Region of the SANParks Honorary Rangers and the Wuppertal Zooverein. The initiative involves training each handler on basic dog first aid so they are able to care for and attend to their dog while hot on the heels of poachers. What this means is that should these four brand new additions to the canine unit be bitten by a snake, lacerate a paw or get dehydrated while deep in the bush, we can all rest easy knowing that we won’t lose a dog to save a rhino.

med-aid-for-dogs — Veterinary nurse Elzabe de Bruyn hands over the trauma kits to SANParks

Thus far, 22 trauma kits have been handed over to the handlers who have received this doggie first aid training, and the K9 Centre also has its master trauma kit. But it doesn’t end there – the aim is now to compile more comprehensive kits for the section rangers, and the Honorary Rangers are even looking to buy/obtain a container which they can convert into a mobile vet clinic, complete with anaesthesia machine, operating table and the like. But this all costs money, or those with access to this equipment give donations. And this, my fellow puppy-lovers, is where you come in! Have a way to help? Want to donate to the K9 Centre by way of cash or equipment? Then be sure to email Grant Coleman, chairman of the Lowveld Region of the SANParks Honorary Rangers, and do your part to support the canines of Kruger!

kennels-canine-unit — New kennels at the K9 Centre keep the dogs safe and sound at night in leopard country!

Book Review: Elephant Dawn by Sharon Pincott

Now and then, a book breaks through the wallpaper of my life and delivers its message intravenously. Elephant Dawn by Sharon Pincott did that for me – an intense, inspiring, and moving read.

Sharon Pincott made the life-changing decision in 2001 to forgo her jet-setting job and comfortable Australian home to make a difference in the world. Having sold her possessions, and later her home, to fund this project, she arrived in Zimbabwe during a tumultuous time in this country’s history – to spend time with a herd of elephants that in 1990 was granted protection under President Mugabe’s decree.

These wild elephants roam over a large, unfenced area that includes the magnificent Hwange National Park and the adjacent Hwange Estate. The presidential protection turned out to be a paper tiger, and to this day, the elephants face the same threats that elephants face all over Africa – primarily poachers and trophy hunters – exacerbated and fuelled by Mugabe’s controversial and destructive land reform programme.

This book is not your classic African safari story; it chronicles Pincott’s roller-coaster journey and follows the lives of several of the matriarchs she got to know.

Over an incredible 13 years, this tough-as-teak lady developed a valuable understanding of all 17 extended family groups that make up the greater 500-strong herd. She also became the public figurehead of this herd in their battle against the deadly intentions of the poachers and trophy hunters. Her deeply personal bond with some of the matriarchs (who would come running when she called) struck a chord with me, although the touching and caressing of some of the elephants would surely have attracted criticism from many.

And yet, here we are – Zimbabwe’s Presidential Herd of elephants is now famous and under intense international scrutiny. Job done. Well, partly. Will Zimbabwe take advantage of this marketing godsend and capitalise on high levels of safari tourism interest? Time will tell.

Sharon Pincott is, at the time of writing, currently back in Australia, taking a break from the pressures of the intensely political world of wildlife conservation. Hopefully, her energy and passion will not be lost to Africa, and she will soon return. Again, time will tell.

Elephant Dawn by Sharon Pincott is available on amazon.com.

Rhino horn?

A chainsaw sputters to life, and its loud hum fills the air. Two black rhinos – a mother and her calf – lie helplessly on the ground. They tremble a bit, though never move from where they have fallen. A helicopter takes off and buzzes above us before speeding away, its heavy blades chopping through the sky. The mother is an exemplary rhino; her primary horn is long and curved like a crescent moon, and her secondary horn is tall and straight, almost matching the first horn in length.

Today, both the mother and the calf will lose their horns because of rhino poaching. There are, however, two crucial factors that affect today’s outcome. The first is that the rhinos will walk away from this experience with their lives and the second is that the process is performed by a highly-skilled wildlife veterinarian and an accompanying team of conservation professionals – the very people who dedicate their careers and lives to protecting these animals. The Zululand Rhino Reserve (ZRR), located in northern KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa, is in the midst of the process of dehorning all of its rhinos. The reserve is not alone in this decision and rhinos all over the country are having their horns removed by the very humans who are trying to protect them.

two-rhinos-peter-chadwick — A white rhino mother and calf run through an open area before being darted from the air to begin the dehorning process ©Peter Chadwick

rhino-helicopter-peter-chadwick — A helicopter hovers close to a white rhino that has just been darted from the air by a qualified veterinarian ©Peter Chadwick

rhino-long-horn-peter-chadwick — A large white rhino cow, which has had her eyes covered for protection, begins to settle as the sedating drugs take effect ©Peter Chadwick

Where to start

The chainsaw’s blade starts to whir and plunges into the rhino’s horn. It cuts loudly and steadily through the thick horn, and suddenly, under the Zululand sun, it begins to rain rhino horn dust. A large tarpaulin is draped on the ground under the rhino’s head to catch all of the shavings, as even the smallest amount of horn holds value in the illegal rhino horn market. As the blade continues to carve its course through the horn, I flinch and look away, nervous that the cut is too deep. But it is not. The cut is perfectly executed and just nicks the growth plate. The wildlife veterinarian, Dr Mike Toft, is not new to this practice. To date, he has personally dehorned almost 200 rhinos in the greater Zululand area. Mike wields the chainsaw like a practised artisan and expertly cuts around the base of the horn towards the growth plate, which rises in the middle like a small mound.

After the cutting is finished, he uses an angle grinder, explicitly designed for keratin, to grind down as far as he can. Small drops of blood begin to form on the base of the horn. “That’s how you know you’ve gone far enough,” Mike assures us. Previous dehorning methods made only the initial cut, leaving a large chunk of horn mass sitting around the growth plate at the base of the rhino’s horn. Recently Mike cut an additional 2.1 kilogrammes of rhino horn off of a large white rhino after the first cut. With 2.1 kilogrammes of rhino horn translating to approximately US$275,000 on the black market, he is undoubtedly correct when he explains, “that’s why rhino dehorning was not considered successful in the past – there was still enough horn left to tempt poachers.”

cutting-off-rhino-horn-peter-chadwick — A front horn is carefully removed with the aid of a chainsaw ©Peter Chadwick

cutting-rhino-horn-with-chainsaw-peter-chadwick — A back horn is carefully removed with the help of a chainsaw ©Peter Chadwick

The secondary horn is cut just as close, and then the horns are removed from the calf. All the while the ground team works hard, taking blood, skin and hair samples for DNA, recording ear notches and identification numbers, and photographing the animals for records. Mike simultaneously monitors their condition while dehorning the rhinos. They have been darted from a helicopter with a cocktail drug containing an immobiliser, a tranquilliser and an enzyme to ensure rapid absorption. The immobilising drug causes a surge of adrenaline, which accounts for much of the trembling. The entire process is quick and professional.

“It’s not gentle, but it is effective,” according to Mike.

Although that is the case, many rhino lovers still find the process traumatic to watch. Rangers and onlookers choke back tears and soldier on with the task at hand. The dehorning of these two rhinos has been sponsored by a generous donor from the United States, who accompanies us today. Before the rhinos are woken up, he kneels and places his hand on the calf’s small body and takes a silent moment. There are so many things a person desires to communicate to a rhino in this circumstance: compassion, assurance, sorrow, frustration, solidarity. Instead, the team works quickly and calmly, accomplishing what they believe is necessary to protect their rhinos.

injecting-rhino-peter-chadwick — Each darted rhino is given a long-lasting antibiotic in the spot where the dart penetrated ©Peter Chadwick

cutting-closely-rhino-horn-peter-chadwick — Once the horns have been removed with a chainsaw, the stumps are carefully ground with an angle grinder to remove any remaining horn ©Peter Chadwick

blood-samples-rhino-peter-chadwick — Blood samples are taken for DNA sampling from each sedated rhino ©Peter Chadwick

The veterinarian administers a reversal drug to the mother and calf. Within minutes they are both on their feet, huffing and puffing. They charge off into the bush seemingly unaffected albeit a few kilogrammes lighter. The quick return to normalcy is reassuring, and the team proceeds with a sense of accomplishment and purpose. Our next targets have been identified by rangers in the field, and the ground team’s vehicles rush off to meet the helicopter, which is quickly making its way to dart the identified rhinos. The second set of rhinos is another mother-calf pair, but this time of white rhinos. Again, the mother is remarkably beautiful – an older female with an impressively sizeable primary horn. With a horn of this size, it is only due to the hard work of the anti-poaching team in the ZRR that she is still alive. Removing it is demoralising. “It’s devastating to have to deface a rhino because of human greed,” notes Karen Holmes, the general manager of the ZRR.

A crossroads in conservation

We are at a critical moment in rhino conservation. While overall the population of both black and white rhinos in Africa is still growing, we are getting incrementally closer every year to that crucial tipping point where poaching pressure exceeds population growth. From there, it’s a slippery slope to extinction. Many subpopulations have reached that point already. In 2015 alone, over 1,300 rhinos were poached in Africa. Those on the frontlines protecting our rhinos are battle-weary, and the demand for rhino horn shows no sign of relenting. Rangers, managers and owners are desperate for help to stop the ongoing slaughter.

The solution that many are currently turning to is the removal of rhino horns. Dehorning has become commonplace mostly because it is working. Removing the horns is effective at decreasing the reward for poachers’ efforts. Alternative solutions, like poisoning of rhino horn, have proved ineffective, and anti-poaching activities alone are not enough.

A partially sedated white rhino’s pupils begin to dilate before they are covered with a cloth to protect them from damage ©Peter Chadwick

blindfolded-rhino-peter-chadwick — The dehorning process is professionally managed at all times and is carried out to reduce the impacts of poaching on the animals. Although the horns do grow back in time, it is hoped that the dehorning will buy time to find longer-lasting solutions to the current poaching war. ©Peter Chadwick

The issues to consider

It may seem an obvious solution, but from a reserve’s point of view, the decision is never easy. There are logistical, financial and ethical issues with which to grapple when considering rhino dehorning. Dehorning is not a cure-all solution. Rhino horn grows back rapidly and, within about a year and a half, the horn on a young rhino is usually big enough to tempt poachers again. The effectiveness of dehorning is, therefore, temporary and the process must be repeated to continue to be a deterrent. Each dehorning procedure is costly, especially with veterinarian and helicopter fees to factor in. Some reserves are simply too big to be able to dehorn all of their rhinos, and there are also concerns that removing horns will negatively impact tourism.

Yet even when logistics and finances are managed, the number one consideration for whether or not to dehorn rhinos is always the potential effect on the rhinos themselves. Removing the horn from a rhino feels like a gross violation of nature. Evolution favours exaggerated traits, like the rhino’s horn, if there is a strong selective pressure for it to do so. Rhinos use their horns for territorial defence and dominance struggles, to assist in foraging, to protect their young from predators, in courtship, and possibly in mate selection. The knock-on effects of dehorning rhinos could, therefore, slow species growth rate. At an evolutionary scale, it’s a heavy price to pay to protect a species.

blindfolded-dehorned-rhino-peter-chadwick — A dehorned white rhino with a protective cloth covering its eyes just before being awoken from sedation ©Peter Chadwick

blindfolded-rhino-without-horn-peter-chadwick — The chaos of the dehorning scene, with an oxygen cylinder close at hand to assist with the easy breathing of the sedated rhino ©Peter Chadwick

dehorned-rhino-peter-chadwick — A white rhino bull begins to awake after sedation. The area where his horns were removed has been carefully sprayed with a purple coloured antiseptic. This colour will disappear in a few days. ©Peter Chadwick

Zululand Rhino Reserve make their decision

The Zululand Rhino Reserve was formed in 2004 as part of the WWF Black Rhino Range Expansion Programme, comprised of a consortium of private landowners with varying interests, and decisions are made by a board of directors on Karen’s recommendations. When the ZRR’s board sat down to debate the choice of dehorning rhinos, many of the reserves around them had already instituted dehorning programmes. Like a horrible game of dominos, poaching pressure passes to the next population.

The vast majority of the reserve’s budget was already being spent on anti-poaching efforts to protect their rhinos. While these efforts had been mostly successful in the reserve, it continued to have poaching incursions regularly. Karen, having researched the pros and cons of dehorning, presented her recommendation to dehorn the ZRR’s rhinos with tears in her eyes, explaining how “it felt like we were admitting defeat.” The board’s vote was not unanimous, but the majority voted in favour of dehorning.

rhino-with-detached-horn — A white rhino that has just been dehorned with earplugs and a protective cloth covering its eyes ©Peter Chadwick

The legalisation of the trade in rhino horn

An unfortunate bedfellow to dehorning as a conservation strategy is the issue of legalisation of the trade in rhino horn, another hotly debated topic. When one of the ZRR’s neighbours went public with the announcement that they had instituted a dehorning programme, they were both praised and criticised. There were allegations that they had failed to protect their rhinos, hadn’t adequately considered alternatives, and worst of all, that the programme was a scam designed to harvest and bank rhino horn. These are stinging accusations for people who regularly risk their own lives in the line of duty and spend millions on protecting rhinos. While the company behind the reserve has publicly confirmed that they would be in favour of a legalised trade in rhino horn, this did not factor into their conservation manager’s analysis and recommendations for implementing a dehorning programme. His decision was made because they were doing everything they could on the ground but still struggling to keep rhinos alive.

Wildlands Conservation Trust, an NGO that runs community-owned Somkhanda Game Reserve (located a short distance north of the ZRR) is decidedly against the legalisation of the trade in rhino horn. They still decided to dehorn Somkhanda’s rhino population. As Kevin McCann, the Deputy Director of WCT succinctly puts it: “We decided we’d rather have rhino alive without horns than dead.”

Regardless of which side of the debate individuals or organisations fall on, the crux of the situation is that the international trade in rhino horn is currently illegal and that CITES is unlikely to legalise the trade. There’s no doubt that there are a few unscrupulous individuals who are dehorning rhinos and wagering on trade legalisation, but these are the minority. The vast majority implementing rhino dehorning programmes are doing so with the safety of the rhinos and the people protecting them in mind.

drilling-rhino-horn-peter-chadwick — Each removed horn is measured, weighed and logged, and DNA samples are collected for future ease of tracking ©Peter Chadwick

rhino-horn-shavings-peter-chadwick — Horn shavings from the dehorning exercise are carefully collected, bagged and removed from the site – together with the horns and in accordance with legislative requirements. ©Peter Chadwick

The future

On our sixth dehorning of the day, as the secondary horn is cut off a young male white rhino, it bounces towards me on the tarpaulin. I pick it up, and it fits perfectly into the palm of my hand. How absurd that this inert lump is worth more than its weight in gold on the black market. It is not a cure for anything. It is essentially the world’s most expensive placebo. This culturally-created placebo effect results in a substance with such astronomical worth that it is valued above the life of an animal, above human lives and above the obliteration of a species. I toss it back on the tarpaulin. In my eyes, it is worthless now that it has been removed from the rhino. The day wears on, and we dehorn nine rhinos in total. It is a full day’s work, and the physical and emotional exhaustion is evident on everyone’s faces.

The ZRR will continue with its dehorning programme and remove the horns from all the rhinos in the reserve. It is a colossal undertaking and a heavy responsibility to protect a population of rhinos. The relief, though temporary, must be tremendous. The next years will be critical in evaluating the success of dehorning programmes, as poaching and population growth rates are closely monitored.

Due to the security risk, any horns that are removed during dehorning programmes are immediately taken off the property and moved to a secure undisclosed location and stored in accordance with South African law.

On our drive back to camp we pass a dehorned female rhino grazing. She does not have a horn, but she is still a rhino and, most importantly, she is still alive.

Perhaps in the future, there will be a time when a rhino’s horn does not dictate its likelihood to live or die, but not today. Today there are nine fewer rhinos that will die at a poacher’s hands.

rangers-with-dehorned-rhinos-peter-chadwick — Dr Mike Toft makes a final check on a white rhino mother and calf before administering the antidote that will awaken the two animals from sedation ©Peter Chadwick

two-dehorned-rhinos-peter-chadwick — Two white rhinos that have recently had their horns removed wander off into the surrounding bushveld ©Peter Chadwick

rhino-and-ranger-peter-chadwick — Dr Mike Toft carefully monitors the sedated rhinos throughout the dehorning procedure, providing the highest level of professional care ©Peter Chadwick

About the photographer

All images ©Peter Chadwick. Peter Chadwick is an internationally recognised award-winning photographer.
He specialises in photographing and writing about conservation and environmental issues on the African continent. Peter is a Fellow of the International League of Conservation Photographers.

Shannon Airton is an American expat living in South Africa. She has a Bachelor’s degree in Ecology, Behaviour and Evolution and a Master’s degree in Biological Anthropology. A conservation biologist by training, she has worked in Zululand researching rhinos, wild dogs and leopards for the last 14 years.

She has recently made the decision to give up the rather rough and nomadic life of a researcher to raise her two-year-old son and help run the family business, Rhino River Lodge, in the Zululand Rhino Reserve. Following her passion for conservation biology, her writing focuses on bringing important conservation issues to a public audience.

Sustainable utilisation of wildlife not so sustainable

A comprehensive new review of the threats facing global biodiversity indicates that a popular approach to saving the planet’s wild animals from extinction may be fatally flawed. Written by: Andreas Wilson-Späth

‘Sustainable utilisation’ is a catchphrase that is as fashionable in wildlife conservation circles as it is controversial. In essence, it suggests that natural resources – in this instance, wild animals – can be ‘harvested’ in a way that will not endanger the continued survival of the species in question. Furthermore, proponents argue that this form of commercial exploitation is a legitimate (some would say the only) way to raise the money required to fund conservation measures.

This philosophy of sustainable utilisation is central to the South African government’s wildlife conservation policy. It underpins claims by the hunting fraternity that killing animals for sport contributes to their conservation, and it forms the basis for arguments that legalising the international trade in products such as elephant ivory and rhino horns will reduce poaching.

New research shows that the belief that humans are capable of using wild animals in this fashion without ultimately causing their demise may be misplaced. In the article, published in the prestigious journal Nature this month, a group of conservation scientists assess the factors that are driving wild species towards extinction. They identify overexploitation, including hunting, as the biggest threat.

The authors analysed the threat information for 8,688 ‘threatened’ and ‘near-threatened’ species contained in the International Union for Conservation of Nature’s (IUCN) Red List of Threatened Species. They found that climate change, pollution, invasive species, urbanisation and agricultural activities present some of the most serious dangers to these species.

The single biggest threat, however, is overexploitation, defined as “the harvesting of species from the wild at rates that cannot be compensated for by reproduction or regrowth”. This affects 6,241 of the species considered. After logging (the survey includes both plants and animals), the researchers show that hunting is the second most perilous subset of threat factors within the category of overexploitation. Hunting impacts detrimentally on 1,680 species. That’s almost exactly the same number of species as are affected by global climate change.

Pointing out that the threats to endangered species are likely to remain as populations grow and human development continues at full pace, the authors of the paper warn that “of all the plant, amphibian, reptile, bird and mammal species that have gone extinct since AD1500, 75% were harmed by overexploitation or agricultural activity or both”.

According to one of them, Sean Maxwell of the University of Queensland in Australia, addressing these two major threat factors “must be at the forefront of the conservation agenda”, this being “key to turning around the biodiversity extinction crisis”.

As the 17th meeting of the Conference of the Parties to the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) in Johannesburg draws near, these new findings should inform the critical debate around a joint proposal to legalise the trade in ivory submitted to the meeting by South Africa, Namibia and Zimbabwe.

In direct opposition to the 29 Central, West and East African nations that make up the core of the African Elephant Coalition, the three Southern African countries want to be allowed to sell ivory from their national stockpiles on a legalised international market. Citing the need to raise capital for conservation measures and poverty relief, they assert their right to sustainably utilise their wild animal resources. But the new findings identifying overexploitation as the most serious threat to thousands of species cast serious doubt on the validity and wisdom of this approach.

And the Nature article isn’t the only recent document that should give us pause when considering so-called sustainable utilisation as an effective conservation philosophy. In July a large group of international scientists, including representatives from South Africa, came together to pen a declaration to save the world’s terrestrial megafauna.

This is especially relevant to the current debate since sub-Saharan Africa has the planet’s greatest diversity in megafauna, from elephants, gorillas and large cats, to hippos, rhinos, giraffes, buffalos and more.

Noting that 59% of the world’s largest carnivores and 60% of its largest herbivores are now classified as threatened with extinction on the IUCN Red List, the authors of the declaration highlight the fact that among other factors, “the current depletion of megafauna is also due to overhunting and persecution: shooting, snaring, and poisoning by humans ranging from individuals to governments, as well as by organised criminals and terrorists”.

They warn that “under a business-as-usual scenario, conservation scientists will soon be busy writing obituaries for species and subspecies of megafauna as they vanish from the planet. In fact, this process is already underway…”

In the face of growing evidence from researchers working in the field that overexploitation represents the preeminent threat to the survival of many endangered species of wildlife, proposals for sustainable utilisation need to be examined with extreme care.

By turning wild creatures into commodities, financial incentives reinforced by market mechanisms are at risk of undermining the conservation prerogative that should form the foundation of this discussion.

Proponents of so-called sustainable utilisation in wildlife conservation often argue that wild animals have to “start paying for themselves” – an attitude that their critics find uncomfortably close to the dictum, “if it pays, it stays”. The latter are particularly concerned about what happens “if it doesn’t pay”, wondering whether wild animals don’t, in fact, have an intrinsic right to inhabit their indigenous habitats without the risk of being sustainably exploited to extinction for the benefit of humans.

Given the fact that our overexploitation of wildlife has been identified as one of the biggest, if not the biggest, causes of the current crisis in which many species may not make it to the end of this century, it is high time that we join the authors of the declaration to save the world’s terrestrial megafauna by stating that we “affirm an abiding moral obligation to protect the Earth’s megafauna” along with all other threatened plant and animal species

I can’t afford to volunteer in my own country

After four splendid years of studying conservation, I received my BTech degree cum laude in nature conservation. I was now ready to make a difference and plough my way into this difficult industry, but I was in for a big surprise. By volunteering, others may have affected my career opportunities. Written by: Zandri Benade

fence-maintenance-jarrett-joubert — Volunteers maintain fences ©Jarrett Joubert

After my studies came to an end, I started to do research on how to become a more desirable candidate within my industry. Volunteering to gain field experience came out top in most of the articles that I read, and this came as no surprise. I started researching wildlife volunteering in South Africa, which led me to my discovery that conservation experiences and wildlife research has become an industry for rich (by my standards) foreigners and not young local scientists like me.

I visited various websites claiming to help you to “start your career in conservation” by joining their various volunteer programmes, of which the itineraries were absolutely fabulous for a young graduate like me! The only problem, aside from having to leach money off my parents for yet another year of unpaid work, was that these programmes were expecting me to also pay ridiculous amounts of money for lavish accommodation and unnecessary sightseeing. Starting anywhere from ZAR90,000 for 24 weeks, I soon came to realise that I was simply not wealthy enough to take part in these fantastic programmes. To put that into perspective, ZAR90,000 equates to roughly four years of conservation class fees.

alien-vegetation-clearing-jarrett-joubert — Volunteers work to clear alien vegetation ©Jarrett Joubert

One can argue that these programmes are designed with tourists in mind and that they would be cheaper had they been set up for locals. But this is exactly where it becomes quite problematic. Many game reserves benefit from volunteer programmes, as the enterprises that run these programmes often provide their beneficial conservation services for free or at a small price. They thus acquire all the necessary funding to run their programmes from the volunteers themselves. So essentially it is a win-win situation for both organisations – but with dire consequences for young graduates in a country with one of the highest unemployment rates in the world.

In my opinion, the lack of affordable volunteering opportunities for locals could lead to a loss of local knowledge and could complicate career growth amongst educated youth in our country, as foreign volunteers gain valuable experience that they take back to their home country with them.

My future in conservation remains uncertain but I refuse to give up, and I hope that the value of local educated youth will be realised and that we will be given the opportunity to once again become the movers and shakers in the preservation of our own natural heritage.

Poaching along the Okavango River

Elephants in the newly proclaimed Luenge-Luiana National Park in Angola recovered well from over an entire generation of war that this country has endured. This area, previously UNITA occupied, has had time to adjust, and the proclamation of the park in May 2012 was a welcome surprise. But what about poaching? Written by: Mark Paxton

For many of us, this had shown that the KAZA concept could now finally actually be gaining ground, and we were all looking forward to this over nine million hectare park being managed as the star park in Angola. But alas, this seems not to have been the case, and interference from uncontrolled human settlements along the Cuito River boundary has resulted in escalating large-scale poaching incidents in the neighbouring park, targeting mostly the elephants.

poaching-okavango — One of three poached elephant near the Cuito/Okavango river confluence and within the Luengue-Luiana National Park.

Two years ago, for the first time in decades, we saw elephants on the banks of the Okavango River in the Shamvura area where I live. Everybody in the area saw this as a positive and encouraging sign, but I was sceptical. I have been involved in conservation and park management all my life, so I could see this was a sign that the elephants in the park’s interior were being persecuted. As a result of this pressure, I could understand that they were forced to seek refuge and sanctuary further south towards the Okavango River areas, which previously they would only visit occasionally.

It was one of these pressured groups of between 20 and 40 animals that were attacked by poachers in the Kashira area recently. The incident happened at around 17h00 on Saturday, 23rd July, and was first reported to me by my staff and then by our nearest neighbours. I then received a call and was asked how to deal with this incident. I immediately contacted several top senior members of Nampol (the Namibian Police Service), MEFT (The Namibian Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism) and then the regional commander of the Angolan Border Police in the Cuando/Cubango Province, Commander Mino. I also alerted several media contacts and, through other contacts, the Cuando/Cubango province governor and the National Director of the Ministry of Ambiente in Angola.

Yet, despite this prompt and widespread reporting to multiple authorities from both countries, it was only the following day that the scene was investigated. They found carcasses of the slaughtered elephants with the tusks removed. Two other wounded animals were tracked but not found. The tusks from the slain animal had been transported that night over the river into Namibia, where the authorities are apparently trying to trace the tusks and poachers.

elephant-poached — A mixed group of officials from Angola and Namibia investigate the elephant poaching incident.

This is not the first poaching incident I reported in this park. In the last four years, I have reported four hippo and four crocodile poaching incidents, as well as many incidents of elephant and other wildlife meat being sold on the Namibian side of the river.

hippo-poaching-okavango — Dead hippo killed by gunshots being dragged in for investigation

The river area is also constantly under threat from illegal fishermen and commercial fishing operations using numerous large nets on Angolan Government boats, apparently with the knowledge and permission of the administrator from Ndirico in Angola.

illegal-fishing-okavango — A boat full of confiscated nets after a combined Namibia/Angolan river patrol.

For years, the Fisheries Inspectors and MEFT Officials have refused to react to these reports, claiming that when Angolans are involved and any activity on the Angolan river bank is reported, they are not entitled to follow up and prosecute. I’ve become quite accustomed to the well-known excuse of “our hands are tied.”

fishing — A heap of fish recently caught and ready to put out to dry.

Strangely, Nampol does not use that excuse, and I have managed many successful anti-poaching river patrols with the Nampol Border Police at Evero Border Post nearby. Several recent meetings with Angolan authorities confirm that they are only too willing to help but have never been approached to do so. I continue to get excellent help from Nampol, which has no problems involving their Angolan counterparts.

The poaching activities along this park’s southern border are beginning to severely impact the Namibian tourism sector along the Okavango River. One of the recent hippo poaching incidents reported in this area occurred during an international fishing competition that was held on the river. Several boats were in the immediate vicinity where the incident took place and found themselves in the way of flying bullets, forcing them to immediately leave the area for fear of being shot. Obviously, word of the experience has spread, which does not do the area any good.

I understand that the Luenge-Luiana National Park has established a Rangers Corp within the park, which has a relatively well-equipped base station. I also understand that they are under-equipped and need some support and training before they can be as effective as they should be. I chair the Namibian Chapter of the GRAA (Game Rangers Association of Africa), and we are hoping to get involved in Angola with our next AGM being there. We hope that, with our resources, we may well be able to offer the necessary assistance to give this park much-needed professional support.

Why you should vote to stop trade in African grey parrots

So a car is rolling down a hill, at the bottom of which is a cliff and a 400-metre sheer drop to rocks below, and inside the car is a guy enjoying a steaming mug of coffee. He is concerned that the car seems to be picking up speed and heading towards certain destruction. He has considered pulling up the handbrake to stop the car and prevent disaster. But that would also spill his coffee, which he does not want to do. And so he continues sipping and rolling down that hill. What does this have to do with grey parrots?

CITES is that man sipping the coffee. They know that they need to pull up that handbrake and prevent certain disaster (grey parrot extinction in the wild). But by doing so, they will spill some coffee (the many legal and illegal traders, politicians and breeding factory owners who rely on the trade of wild-caught grey parrots for their livelihoods and, in some cases, their vast fortunes).

African grey parrots in flight in Odzala ©Dana Allen

On the table at the upcoming CITES CoP17 conference in South Africa will be the upgrading of the status of grey parrots from Appendix 2 to Appendix 1, which will mean no further trade.

This is where you come in…

I am not convinced that members of CITES have the guts to do this, to pull up that handbrake. It’s complicated, apparently. They need encouragement, coercion perhaps.

By signing the petition below, put together by the respected World Parrot Trust, you will make your voice heard. Then send this post to your friends and ask them to do the same.

If you don’t know much about the topic, read my article, Shades of Grey, or scan this startling summary:

Approximately 1.36 million wild-caught grey parrots have been exported legally since 1975, and when one factors in the 33-60% death rate during transport, the likely number of parrots actually trapped legally from the wild is probably more than 3 million birds. There is no accurate estimate for the number of illegal birds taken from the wild – but it would certainly add significantly to this offtake figure. When one considers that total wild populations have crashed to an estimated 560,000 to 12.7 million birds, this offtake figure is staggering.

captured-adult-grey-parrot-put-in-box — A captured adult grey parrot being placed in a transport box in the DRC ©TL2 Project

wild-caught-immature-grey-parrots-in-drc — Wild-caught immature grey parrots in the DRC ©TL2 Project

Message to CITES: Move the grey parrot Psittacus erithacus to Appendix I and end the trade of this globally threatened species for good.

Please sign your name, share with your friends, and help us to save thousands of wild parrots!

Make a difference and sign the petition here.

An African grey parrot in Odzala ©Dana Allen

Rwanda: into the heart of Africa

Our silver Jeep bravely struggled up and down the steep Rwanda countryside hills. Breathtaking views and terraced fields endlessly accompanied us on the road to the Virunga Mountains, where we hoped to encounter the endangered mountain gorillas and golden monkeys. As a wildlife photographer, I was extremely excited about the prospect of meeting two such rare species in their natural habitat.

The roads were narrow and lined with people in colourful clothing who were cycling, walking or carrying baskets full of fruit and vegetables. As we navigated our way to Musanze in the northwestern province, I was amazed by how incredibly clean the country was. There wasn’t a piece of paper or a plastic bottle in sight, even though Rwanda is Africa’s most densely populated country. I was genuinely intrigued by this, and I later found out that Rwanda practices a rule whereby every able citizen is expected to help clean the streets between 8 am and midday on the last Saturday of each month.

Finally, after a spectacular journey, we arrived at the conservation office that borders Volcanoes National Park, where we met the friendly trackers and park wardens, who went out of their way to make us feel welcome. Volcanoes National Park protects the Rwandan section of the Virunga Mountains, which forms part of a transfrontier conservation area that includes protected areas in Uganda and the DRC. It is a range of mostly dormant volcanoes and includes Rwanda’s highest point – the 4,507 metre-high Mt Karisimbi – and two active volcanoes, Mt Nyiragongo and Mt Nyamuragia.

After our introductory meeting, we made our way back along the 20-kilometre road to Musanze, which is filled with gaping potholes and people transporting enormous bags of potatoes on bicycles. Irish and sweet potatoes are grown extensively in this region, as is the fantastic pyrethrum – a small white daisy decorating the countryside across seemingly endless fields. The plant is used as a natural insecticide and exported worldwide.

rwanda-agriculture-pyrethrum — Hard-working women tend to the fields with their children in tow (left); The pretty pyrethrum (right). Both images ©Jytte Fredholm Ferreira

Meeting the mountain gorillas

After a night’s rest in a small hotel, the day of the gorilla trek arrived, and I was ecstatic. The mountain gorilla is one of the rarest species on Earth, and there are only approximately 1,000 mountain gorillas left in the wild, so it is an enormous privilege to see them. Different gorilla families live in the Virungas – certain families are large, with nearly 30 individuals, while others have between 10 and 20 members.

I was fortunate to be placed in a small group with only two other people. After introductions, we drove another 20km to the starting point of the trek before tackling the last 1.5km, which entailed driving over sharp volcanic rocks. I held my breath for about 20 minutes, negotiating each treacherous rock, hoping to make it to the end.

The gorilla trek into the mountains was strenuous, to say the least. A certain fitness level is required, and I was grateful for my gym sessions. However, after three hours of hiking, our guide instructed us to leave our equipment in a small clearing and only bring along our cameras. He told us to be quiet as the gorillas were nearby. And he was right. Before we even had time to leave our bags, a young gorilla came rushing out of the foliage into the clearing, so close to me that he brushed against my pants as he scampered past. He was inquisitive and kept on moving in and out of the clearing. He seemed unsure of what to do until another juvenile arrived with a baby in tow. The two boisterous juveniles played roughly with the little baby until he was finally rescued by his mother, who had been quietly watching the spectacle from behind some bushes a little further away.

Within 10 minutes, a dominant male (silverback) arrived. At this point, the atmosphere changed. There was no question as to who the boss in this family was. We were told to remain calm as the silverback took his time to scrutinise each one of us. The tracker used various sounds to signal that we were not a threat. The family accepted our intrusion, so we were allowed a humbling look into their mysterious world.

It was, without a doubt, one of the most magical moments of my life. Coming face to face with a gorilla family of 18 individuals in their unique habitat is something I wish every animal lover could experience once in their lifetime. This is a mystical and spectacularly beautiful area where the gorillas do live in the mist.

Monkeying around

The following day, we embarked on our golden monkey trek, which was much easier than our previous trek, and our trackers located a substantial troop of about 120 individuals. The golden monkey is endemic to the region and inhabits only a few small pockets of Rwanda and the DRC. It was an absolute privilege to encounter this rare and lovely monkey, but taking good photographs of them proved to be quite a challenge, as they constantly moved around in the bushes and tree canopies. However, they are a whole lot of fun to watch, and I had a good laugh at their performances and games!

golden-monkey-looking-at-camera-jytte-fredholm-ferreira — Look into the eyes of a golden monkey ©Jytte Fredholm Ferreira

Grave encounters

Our third day was dedicated to visiting Dian Fossey’s gravesite and what remains of her old research station, Karisoke. This turned out to be quite a strenuous trek again, but it was well worth it, mainly thanks to our tracker, Francois, who used to work with Dian Fossey, researching the gorillas from the 1960s until Dian’s tragic and unsolved murder in 1985.

It was indeed an emotional experience when we reached the gorilla graveyard. All the gorillas that pass on – whether that be from natural causes or poaching – are represented with a wooden cross with their names carved into it. Digit’s grave was at the far end next to Dian’s tomb. Digit was the silverback with whom Dian had a powerful bond, and their relationship ended in 1977 when poachers attacked Digit’s group. The fearless gorilla sacrificed himself for the good of the group, sustaining several spear wounds while fighting to the death so that his group could escape unharmed. The poachers subsequently decapitated him and removed his hands. This tragedy weighed upon us, and the energy of both Digit and Dian hung strongly in this tranquil spot in the depths of the jungle.

It was then time to trek back, but it had started raining, and the black mud grew deeper by the minute. We descended the mountain, slipping and sliding down the slopes. We must have looked very comical, and I don’t think that I have ever laughed so much on a trek in my life – it was like being a kid again!

jytte-fredholm-ferreira-by-dianne-fossey-grave — Paying respects at Dian Fossey’s gravesite ©Jytte Fredholm Ferreira

pandora-gorilla-grave-jytte-fredholm-ferreira — A female gorilla’s grave (left); Jytte and Francois (right). Both images ©Jytte Fredholm Ferreira

The end of an adventure

After all the excitement, we rounded off our trip with a visit to Akagera National Park, which is situated at a lower altitude than the rest of the country and hosts one of the highest concentrations of hippos in Africa. From there, we made our way to our final destination, Lake Kivu, which is Rwanda’s largest lake and is 480 metres deep. It is truly spectacular and surrounded by mountains with irregular shores, peninsulas and plenty of waterfalls.

Towards the end of our stay, we hired a local to take us on a boat ride, and we ended up on Napoleon Island, a desolate home to many fruit bats feeding on the plentiful guava growing on the island. It was an incredible experience when thousands of squeaking bats filled the dusky skies above us.

On our return, we watched numerous local fishing boats leaving the shores for the night. The men’s singing voices permeated the air as they began their long night’s job under the African stars. Rwanda was grandly bidding me farewell, and I left the country with a warm and fuzzy feeling. What a fascinating place – incredible people, dramatic history, and awe-inspiring wildlife. Rwanda will leave no one untouched. I will return…

breakfast-at-dawn-ruzizi-camp-jytte-fredholm-ferreira — Breakfast at dawn in Akagera National Park ©Jytte Fredholm Ferreira

Best time to travel

The best time to head to Rwanda depends on many things, such as personal interests and the reasons for travelling. One person’s best time could be another’s worst, depending on where you want to visit, and Africa’s weather patterns are becoming increasingly unpredictable.

Rwanda lies fractionally south of the equator, in the heart of Africa. Its relatively high altitude offers a remarkably pleasant tropical highland climate.

Temperatures vary considerably between locations but very little from month to month in the same place. In the capital of Kigali, the average daily temperature is about 21°C.

Rwanda’s long rainy season lasts from about March to May, when it tends to rain considerably. Having said that, though, I was there at the end of March, and we only had a few bursts of rain in over two weeks. The long dry season is generally the best time to visit for most people – from June to mid-September. From October to November there is a shorter rainy season, followed by a short dry season from December to February.

Healthy cascades on a waterfall trail in Nyungwe National Park ©Christian Boix

Health and safety

When it comes to safety, Rwanda is right at the top. There was a significant police presence, and not once during my visit did I feel threatened in any way, whether in a city or the countryside. The laws are stringent, and crime statistics are low, but, as always, general precautions should still be taken to be on the safe side.

To travel to Rwanda, you must be vaccinated against yellow fever and carry the certificate. There is a moderate chance of malaria, and tsetse flies are prevalent in some areas at specific periods, but they are generally not a problem in Kigali or the Virunga Mountains.

Tap water tends to be drinkable in Kigali, but you may prefer to err on the side of caution and purchase bottled water.

Trekking at high altitudes can be strenuous and to alleviate some of the side effects, I used Cellfood oxygen drops in my drinking water when hiking, which worked brilliantly for me.

A traffic jam behind a herd of Ankole cattle ©Christian Boix

What to do in Rwanda

A trip to Rwanda doesn’t have to focus on visiting the mountain gorillas and golden monkeys in the Volcanoes National Park in the Virunga Mountains. You can also pay a visit to Nyungwe National Park, which hosts 13 primate species, 75 mammal species, and 278 bird species and is one of the wealthiest areas in Africa for endemic species.

Akagera National Park is also spectacular, thanks to its lakes and grasslands. Akagera has recently reintroduced lions into the park, and birding is excellent thanks to more than 525 bird species.

Over and above the national parks, a visit to the genocide memorial sites may be interesting to you. It may seem morbid, but it is well worth a visit better to understand Rwanda’s history, culture and people. It is also worth visiting Lake Kivu, which is a popular area for visitors wishing to swim, enjoy the beach or take a boat trip to one of the many islands.

lion-rwanda — Look out for the lions that have recently been reintroduced into Akagera National Park ©Jytte Fredholm Ferreira

baby-baboon-scratching-behind-ear — Visit Nyungwe National Park, which hosts 13 species of primates! ©Jytte Fredholm Ferreira

About the author

Jytte Fredholm Ferreira is a wildlife photographer, animal communicator, travel writer, diver and sailor passionate about Africa and its wildlife. She is deeply involved in nature conservation and has won a prestigious award from SKAL International for media and conservation. She hopes that her unique photographic perspective, as well as her connection with animals, will convey their emotions and conjure the feeling for readers of being out in the wild.

As a naturalist and passionate conservationist, Jytte feels there is an urgency to create a greater understanding, love and appreciation between humans and nature. Otherwise, she fears that our natural world and its wonders will soon be lost.

Originally from Sweden, she now spends much of her time in the bush on photographic expeditions and has travelled extensively in Southern and Central Africa on her adventures. She recently started offering photographic wildlife trips into the Sub-Saharan wilderness. You can visit her website for more information.

The antics of adorable hyena cubs

My neighbours call me the hyena lady and I choose to take this as a compliment. I earned this name because of my insatiable fascination with spotted hyenas. Written by: Sharon Haussmann

In the special part of wilderness where I live, Balule Private Nature Reserve, we have a territorial clan of hyenas totalling about 24 adults. This clan regularly dens near my house and this has enabled me to spend many hours observing them. I have seen them hunt, scavenge, sleep, play, mate and very near giving birth. I have heard them whoop, growl, whimper, cackle, yelp, and so much more. I know every individual; I have taken thousands of photos and videos and done some extensive sound recordings. These misunderstood animals have become a part of my daily life.

hyena-baby — A six-week-old cub looking at the world differently! Snuggling in the safety of mom’s company this curious cub stared at me intently – I was left wondering if he would have an upside-down imprint of humans in his mind forever!

It is every time that I look into the dark, soulful little eyes of a hyena cub that I wish to tell the world, and especially children, that there is so much more to hyenas than the villain characters so strongly portrayed in Disney movies.

hyena-cubs — Little black cubs, estimated to be two weeks old, exploring outside their burrow.

While they certainly are fierce predators, they are also very nurturing, social and caring creatures. I have had the privilege to observe this active hyena den for almost three years now and my fascination with these beautiful, complex animals grows stronger every day.

hyena-cub — A mom moving her cub from one burrow to another.

Early mornings at the den are my favourite time. This is when the adventurous cubs come out to play, and their curiosity and mischievous antics can soften the steeliest of hearts and captivate one’s attention for hours.

hyenas-with-cub — Clan members take a close look at a small cub while mom, in the middle, keeps an eye.

The cubs’ play closely resembles that of domestic dogs. They love an energetic game of chase, leaving dust billowing over the den. The chase always ends with a tumble and some biting and playful bullying. Another amusing and favourite game of theirs is tug-of-war – one cub will find a stick, and another tries to steal it away, resulting in two cubs growling and pulling fiercely at opposite ends!

The cubs often run right over resting or sleeping adults, tumbling and scrambling over them and away. The adults do not flinch, tolerating the cub’s play almost with amusement, and sometimes they even join in. While this play is important for their muscle development, it is evident that some superior hunting skills are packaged in those cute little black bodies.

hyenas-playing — The two little cubs were enjoying a good game of chase when the sub-adult joined in but was playing too rough and hurt the babies. Mom was lying down to the side but in a flash jumped up and disciplined the sub-adult.

Hyena cubs are born completely black, with open eyes and a full set of teeth. They cautiously emerge from the burrow at around two to three weeks old and soon gain enough confidence to venture and explore nearby the den. They gradually develop spots from the neck down and are completely spotty around six months of age.

Hyena clan — Some clan members socialising. Adults, sub-adults and cubs all interact and communicate with each other.

It is when I see the tenderness with which a mother nurses her cubs, the affection between family members and the playful nature of these fascinating creatures that I wish to tell the world there is so much more to hyenas than the sly scavenging characters of Shenzi, Banzai, Ed and Janja!

hyenas — Mom sleeping soundly while her eight-week-old cub looks around.

Meet 3 elephant angels

Three of the world’s leading African elephant conservationists offer hope and inspiration for saving elephants, the largest land animal on earth, from extinction.

Iain Douglas-Hamilton

Many people consider Iain of Save the Elephants to be the grandfather of elephant conservation. Fifty years ago, at the age of 23, Douglas-Hamilton moved from Britain to Lake Manyara National Park in Tanzania to live in the wild, conducting the first scientific study of the social interactions of the African elephant. Douglas-Hamilton argues that collecting and analysing large amounts of data on elephant locations and migrations can lead to insights into their choices and, therefore, assist in protecting against rising threats, including poaching and human-wildlife conflict. Douglas-Hamilton was the first to alert the world to the ivory poaching holocaust, and he helped bring about the world ivory trade ban in 1989.

What gives Iain Douglas-Hamilton hope and inspiration for saving elephants?

“Various collaborations of concerned individuals, non-governmental organizations (NGOs), institutions and governments playing such a big role in demand reduction gives me such joy and hope that we are all working together to ensure the survival of elephants. Whenever I feel down, I go and hang out with the elephants in Samburu (Kenya), who are very used to me and allow me into their world to watch as a silent observer. I see the young mothers who have grown up from childhood, and I get my elephant fix for a few hours. This re-invigorates me to face and combat the awful realities of the elephants’ situation in Africa today.”

Cynthia Moss

American-born Cynthia Moss moved to Africa in 1968 and has spent the past 47 years in Kenya studying elephants and working for their conservation with the Amboseli Trust for Elephants.

How does Cynthia Moss stay inspired?

“It’s not difficult to stay inspired when one is dealing with elephants. They are infinitely inspirational—long-lived, intelligent, intensely social, charismatic, empathetic, amusing, endearing and more. Anyone could be inspired by elephants without ever seeing them in the wild. Of course, there are bad days when it seems impossible to conserve elephants, but I have never once thought of giving up. There is nothing heroic or commendable about my position; there is simply no choice for me.”

Daphne Sheldrick

As a child, Daphne Sheldrick rehabilitated injured animals before returning them to the wild. Today, through the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust organisation, she is considered the world’s expert on raising orphaned elephants (who have lost their families mainly due to poaching) and re-introducing them back into the wild.

How does Daphne Sheldrick stay inspired?

“By involving oneself in the natural world, one understands that the other beings that share our planet home have to cope with far worse traumas [than we], and yet find the courage to turn the page and focus on the living. The elephants, in particular, have given me the strength to emulate them in this way. There are always highs and lows in the work I do, but one simply has to cope and accept the rough with the smooth!”

*All quotes are excerpts from my book Saving Wild, Inspiration From 50 Leading Conservationists, which is available on Amazon.

Read more about some of the world’s leading conservationists: Message of Hope.

Find out about Kenya for your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

Supporting the canines of Kruger

General Johan Jooste qualifies the canine involvement in anti-poaching rather simply by saying, “They are game changers”. And they truly are. Today, Kruger’s canine unit sees about 52 dogs operating in a Big Five area that many now call a war zone. On a recent trip to Kruger, I learned that these hardworking dogs have many different functions, including tracking poachers in the park and detecting contraband at entrance and exit points.

The canine function is so important that I was keen to get involved and help out. And because doggies tug on everyone’s heartstrings, there is often an outpouring from the public wanting to assist Kruger’s canines. But hearts, funds and help must be pointed in the right direction.

kruger-anti-rhino-poaching-dog — ©Ravi Gajjar, Rhino Tears

The K9 Centre in the Kruger National Park, managed by Johan De Beer, was initially established to bring in dogs and handlers for training, re-training and evaluations. Dogs are also brought to the centre when handlers are on leave. However, Grant Coleman, chairman of the Lowveld Region of the SANParks Honorary Rangers, believes that the centre’s function as a training ground for dogs and handlers will become far bigger than originally planned. Grant says that the K9 Centre could very well become “a centre of knowledge – radiating information out to other centres and parks. But this transfer of knowledge comes with a cost. Transferring information between organisations means that Kruger’s K9 Centre needs to grow and develop. Just by working at the centre, we realised, sometimes daily, that the needs are growing. For instance, a small clinic, an auditorium, obstacle courses, and storage are a few important items we now know we need.”

The SANParks Honorary Rangers have adopted the K9 Centre and taken it under their wing. The Lowveld Region, being the closest region to the centre, coordinates all activities, maintenance, duties, and fundraising that may occur at the centre. The SANParks Honorary Rangers have committed to assist the K9 Centre under the “Project Watchdog” banner. Project Watchdog is a registered project within SANParks through which the Honorary Rangers can officially assist the canine operation in Kruger and the other national parks with canine units. To date, the SANParks Honorary Rangers have purchased trauma kits, donated a few dogs, implemented vet training for handlers, worked on maintaining the centre, established a Hero’s Acre, assisted in general duties at the centre, and are currently looking at building new kennels at ranger posts… to name but a few of the projects underway.

All monies raised by the SANParks Honorary Rangers for Project Watchdog go back to the canine operations in totality. This means that 100% goes back to where it was intended. The canine unit is regularly offered expertise, dogs, training, assistance to help in operations, etc. But Grant believes that “the willing public needs to be aware that the expertise, training, and dogs are all in place. The need for new dogs has nearly reached saturation point. The emphasis these days is not on the supply of the dogs but rather on the support of the dogs and their handlers in the field. About 52 dogs are currently operating in Kruger alongside their dedicated handlers. The dogs need support as they continue to work in a Big Five area that has basically been turned into a war zone, operating in difficult and testing situations. Medical equipment, food, transport boxes, mobile kennels, and permanent kennels are but a few of the items needed to keep this four-legged force mobilised. The best way to support the canine efforts in SANParks is to support the SANParks Honorary Ranger Initiatives. If anyone would like to assist, please do not hesitate to contact me via email.”

kruger-anti-poaching-dog — ©Ravi Gajjar, Rhino Tears

In the near future, the K9 Centre intends to start an “Adopt a Dog” programme, where the public can support the dogs through minimal financial help. This support will give the donor access to information on the progress of the dog they have ‘adopted’. They will be able to see their dog’s challenges and successes on a monthly or quarterly basis, and their financial support will assist the dog and handler in being more effective in their daily anti-poaching operations. In keeping with this line of thinking, the official SANParks – Kruger National Park Facebook group recently raised over ZAR35,000 for the K9 Centre through an initiative pioneered by SANPark’s guide and Safari Guide of the Year, Jaco Buys. This money will officially be handed over on 7th August at a ceremony arranged and hosted by the Lowveld Honorary Rangers to Xolani Nicholus Funda, Chief Ranger of anti-poaching operations in the Kruger National Park. The money will be used to adopt the fees and well-being of one of the dogs that will be handed over on the day.

Game census safari

Countless gung-ho riders were galloping back and forth, and frantic calls were coming from all over the property on the radio. We had lost a precious female buffalo after darting her, and the race was on to find the drugged cow before it was too late. As everyone soon discovered after their arrival, this was not your typical horseback safari. This was game census week in the Waterberg, and the catch-and-release of wild animals doesn’t always go according to plan.

As a fellow guest pointed out, there are plenty of places to ride around in the dust, but you can do so with a purpose in the Waterberg. Game Census Week aims to ensure that the private reserve and its wild residents continue to thrive. A game census is a vital tool to achieve this, as it is essential to have accurate numbers of browsers, selective grazers and bulk grazers to maintain a balance in the ecosystem and not over-utilise the environment, which could cause permanent damage to the vegetation.

The week also lends itself to other conservation activities, such as darting and relocating wildlife to establish new populations or to avoid culling. The Waterberg region of South Africa has been exceptionally dry this winter, as the area has been crippled recently by the El Niño drought. As a result, the reality is that farmers either have to sell, move or shoot their livestock or game; otherwise, there is the costly exercise of subsidising feed. The Ant Collection has made a plan to mitigate such circumstances. Once a year – during the winter months, as you can only move animals when it’s not breeding season – guests are invited to saddle up and play cowboy in a modern-day South African context. The pace of the game census week varies, from lots of waiting around to manic adrenaline-pumped riding, which keeps things interesting for the participants.

horse-riding-game-census-the-ant-collection — Riding through the dust in the golden hour of the Waterberg ©James Fox & Kerryn Chegwidden

game census — An aerial view of The Ant Collection ©Oliver Whittle

The Ant Collection has a herd of about 90 horses of five different breeds – athletic thoroughbreds, sure-footed South African boerperde, calm Frisians, spirited Arabians and steady appaloosas. The horses are well-oiled game census machines, knowing to wait patiently while listening for the dart gun before they go racing off to find the targeted animal after a radio cue.

Game capture entails selecting an animal to be darted, which is then surrounded on horseback to keep it in sight. The height and non-threatening presence of the horses allow for good accuracy when counting or capturing game, and it is much less stressful for the wildlife to be approached on horseback rather than in a noisy helicopter.

After what felt like searching for a needle in a haystack, we eventually found that buffalo cow, which had fortunately fallen in sternal recumbency (on its chest). If an animal, except for the rhino, falls in lateral recumbency (on its side), it is predisposed to bloat due to a build-up of gastric gases in the rumen, which is often fatal. With a massive sigh of relief – and a couple of cries – we loaded her up in a trailer and took her to greener pastures where she could start a new breeding herd.

ants-collection-buffalo — Relocating a buffalo cow ©James Fox & Kerryn Chegwidden

Ant’s antelope

During the week, one of our focuses was to relocate young sable and nyala bulls before they reached maturity and would start to challenge the dominant male in the breeding camp. The goal was also to move females with strong genes to a new camp to help establish populations there.

Fortunately for us, the sable and nyala were relatively predictable and easy to handle. Sable are curious and keen to stick together when darted, while nyala tend to split and run. Once the browser is down, someone has the job of holding the slobbery tongue out of the mouth to stop it from choking. Branches are then placed in the trailer around the animal to make it feel more relaxed and at home while being relocated.

sable-relocation-the-ant-collection — Lifting a darted sable onto a truck ©James Fox & Kerryn Chegwidden

sable-release-the-ant-collection — Releasing the sable into new pastures for breeding purposes ©James Fox & Kerryn Chegwidden

Things were a bit trickier when it came to trying to relocate the shy eland, as we had to bribe Africa’s largest antelopes out of the thicket with oranges, which they love because of their vitamin-rich content. It is highly entertaining to watch an eland eat an orange, as they swallow them whole! Eland are also notorious for running away when you see them, so the horses were not always up to speed, and helicopters were called in.

Rather than merely relocating eland, it became more a question of reacting to medical emergencies that the vet had spotted. In particular, a quick change of plan was required when we found two eland with abscesses that were infested with maggots. Tick bite necrosis is a fairly common – and sometimes fatal – problem for kudu and eland, as these two species tend to be predisposed to abscesses caused by ticks around the genitals and ears. But luckily, Dr van Zyl was there to save the day, and he scraped the wounds clean while his audience worked hard to control their gag reflexes. Once injected with an antibiotic and loaded with medicine, the eland were then moved to a smaller camp where they could be monitored.

During our relocation efforts that week, a kudu calf was also reportedly stuck in the mud, so we diverted our route home one day to pull him out! The calf was so exhausted, and his mother was nowhere in sight, so a decision was made to take him back to camp after the successful rescue. The staff at The Ant Collection are no strangers to saving animals and after initially trying to bite his rescuers, the young kudu quickly took to bottle feeding and has gone from strength to strength ever since. Affectionately named Muddy, the little antelope will have to return to the wild eventually, but his kudu cuteness and doe eyes have melted the hearts of every guest and guide in the meantime.

eland-capture-and-release-the-ant-collection — A helicopter is used to help capture a shy eland (left); The eland is released after its successful relocation (right) ©James Fox & Kerryn Chegwidden

The tears of a giraffe

As much as we all fell in love with Muddy, the giraffe capture day was the most exciting part of my week-long experience. However, this was also the most emotionally draining day, as giraffes are a vet’s trickiest patient due to their physiology, and they have been known to die randomly under anaesthetic. To our dismay and horror, we were to witness such a death.

However, we had to take this risk to be able to move three of these gentle giants to a local buyer’s farm. As a result of the drought, the reality is that the giraffes will otherwise starve to death and with no big predators on the property, there is no means of natural population control. The other alternative to relocation is culling, which The Ant Collection has decided against.

Giraffe are complicated to capture and before making any attempt, the vet and the guides gave us a step-by-step demonstration. Ralph, the reserve’s black labrador, also assisted. We not only discovered that giraffes tend not to fall after being darted, which means you have to trip them, but we also learnt that you have to help them to stand upright when they wake up.

tripping-giraffe-the-ant-collection — It is necessary to trip a giraffe once it has been darted so that it doesn’t cause itself any harm ©James Fox & Kerryn Chegwidden

Like a buffalo, a giraffe has to lie on the ground abreast once it has been tripped, but the difference is that its head has to be kept suspended due to its unique circulatory system. The giraffe has double the blood pressure of other mammals (for blood to reach its brain), which means that the brain can quickly become flooded with blood and damaged if it is not above the heart. By the time I arrived on the scene after an unfortunate detour through the thorn bushes, the spotted ungulate was already blindfolded with its ears plugged and ropes on. As it tried to muster enough momentum to stand up again, guides, guests and volunteers pushed and pulled relentlessly, willing it to stand. Everyone knew that the longer it remained on the ground, the riskier the situation became.

After a great deal of sweating and muttering prayers under our breath, the giraffe’s movement became less frequent, and it took its last breath. Tears left treadmarks in dusty, exhausted faces – the energy that went into trying to save the giraffe was heart-wrenching. The sad loss made me realise how there is a fine line between life and death, and tragically, we had lost this giraffe even though we had managed to save little Muddy against the odds. It’s best to remain impartial when dealing with wild animals, but this is easier said than done. Or sometimes near impossible.

Rescuing rhino

Following this emotional rollercoaster of an experience, it was time to focus on the rhinos. After three rhinos were poached at The Ant Collection in two separate incidents in 2011, the owners, Ant and Tessa Baber, enlisted the help of the Rhino Rescue Project – an NGO that specialises in making rhino horn unfit for human consumption by infusing a compound consisting of ectoparasiticides into the horn fibres.

This is a costly but worthwhile process as they have not lost a rhino since employing this technique, and there is also an around-the-clock anti-poaching unit guarding these odd-toed ungulates as a further precaution.

During game census week, two young rhinos were cited as having long enough horns for the infusion process, but we first had to separate the calves from their mothers using ‘horsepower’. Once darted, Lorinda and her team from the Rhino Rescue Project worked under pressure to take blood samples and measure the horns while their machine worked to ensure that no one would want the horns other than the rhinos themselves!

The rhinos are an intricate part of life at The Ant Collection, and the Babers have been instrumental in establishing the charity Save the Waterberg Rhino, which plays a vital role in educating local communities about the importance of the Waterberg rhino. So far, the organisation has not only unified local landowners in the Waterberg Biosphere, but it has also made roads less accessible to poachers.

rhino-the-ant-collection — One of the highly protected Waterberg rhinos ©James Fox & Kerryn Chegwidden

What you need to know to take part in Game Census Week

You don’t have to be a rider to participate in game census week, as there is plenty of action in the darting and recovery vehicles. However, if you wish to saddle up to help, it is crucial to be an experienced and confident rider.

Be sure to pack proper riding attire, as every little bit helps to make you more comfortable and secure in your task. It’s also worth bringing neutral-coloured clothing, a swimming costume in case you want to take a dip in the pool after a long ride, and a warm jacket to wear in the early mornings or evenings if it gets nippy. Don’t be afraid to pack light; the laundry service is brilliant!

The daily activities make you so hungry that you could eat a horse, and for this reason, you can expect to enjoy three delicious meals per day, on top of mid-morning saddle bag snacks, afternoon tea and sundowners.

The Ant Collection is a horse of a different colour during game census week, but at other times the lodge operates on a flexible timetable, and guests can pick and choose from a host of activities, from bush walks and game drives to cycling and horse riding. On a regular horseback safari, no previous horse riding experience is required as the horses are well-trained and you’re not expected to keep up such a frantic pace.

Situated in a malaria-free area in South Africa, a trip to the Waterberg makes for a fun holiday for all the family, especially as there are no lions or elephants on the private reserve, which makes it an even safer choice for children.

One of my favourite activities was a late-night lecture presented by Dr Philip Calcott, whose knowledge of the night sky was quite literally out of this world. The lack of pollution results in a starry sky, and while cuddled up under blankets and clutching cups of hot chocolate, we learnt about the planets and some iconic constellations. This Night Sky Safari was full of interesting facts, which surprisingly didn’t take light years to learn. Did you know that the same iron oxide in the Waterberg occurs on Mars, too?

When you’re not snaking through the bush on horseback, a real hit is Craig’s reptile demonstration, during which guests can learn about the resident snake species, including African rock pythons, puff adders and cobras. Craig aims to challenge the misconceptions of snakes and offer an informative perspective.

With so many options and such fun-filled days, choosing a favourite experience is difficult. However, what I found most astonishing about my trip was the personal bonds I formed during my game census safari. The shared adrenaline-filled experiences and boozy campfire banter create the perfect recipe for friendship, and the number of recurring guests is an accolade to this. In the words of Tessa, the owner: “You arrive as guests and leave as friends.”

Find out about South Africa for your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

people-having-fun-the-ant-collection — Make lifelong friends in the bush ©James Fox & Kerryn Chegwidden

About the author

Georgie grew up escaping city life by going horseback riding in the Magaliesberg mountains or Land Rover-ing in the Madikwe sandveld. Accustomed to the sun on her face and the wind in her hair, Georgina then embarked as a trainee sailor on a three-masted barque after graduating with a degree in Environmental Science.

Ship life steered her beyond her beloved Southern Africa to remote destinations and ecological treasure houses like the Galapagos, Pitcairn Island and Polynesia. Once grounded, her love of the outdoors developed into a deep respect for the environment and a desire to preserve it.

Birds, great apes, and so much more in Uganda

Uganda2016_Shoebill1 — A shoebill hunting for catfish in Uganda © Malcolm Lund

In June 2016, my wife Trish and I signed up for a safari to Uganda with Africa Geographic. We have travelled extensively in eastern and southern Africa, but this would be our first visit to this less-discovered jewel. We had high hopes for superb birding and some memorable great ape encounters. Uganda delivered those, and so much more. By Malcolm Lund

Our safari began in Entebbe on the shore of Lake Victoria, where we found almost 70 bird species on our first day without even leaving town. Then it was off to Mabamba Swamp for our first try at that most unique and prehistoric-looking of birds, the shoebill. We had a terrific ‘photoshoot’ with this highly sought-after Ugandan speciality and many other marsh and water birds.

Uganda2016-Gorilla-Mom-Infant — Mother and child mountain gorilla © Malcolm Lund

After a quick visit to Lake Mburo National Park to enjoy its savannah wildlife and chalk up many more bird species, we headed into the highlands of southwestern Uganda.

We spent five glorious days in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, hiking and enjoying its highland forest’s serene beauty and prolific birdlife. But the show’s real star here was gorilla trekking – an easy forest walk to visit a troop of mountain gorillas. Spending an hour in the presence of such gentle giants was a highlight of this trip and all our time in wild Africa.

We could have happily spent our entire holiday in Bwindi, but Uganda had many more secrets for us to discover.

Uganda2016-Gorilla-Silverback — A silverback mountain gorilla © Malcolm Lund

Next up was a visit to the game-rich savannahs of Queen Elizabeth National Park. Here, we met the handsome Ugandan kob and the renowned tree-climbing lions of Ishasha.

tree-climbing-lions — A tree-climbing lion of Ishasha © Malcolm Lund

We also took a relaxing boat cruise along the bird-rich shores of the Kazinga Channel. Herds of water-loving elephants were entertaining, but the hundreds of pied kingfishers really stole the show.

elephant-uganda — A herd of elephants drinking © Malcolm Lund

pied-kingfisher-uganda — A male pied kingfisher © Malcolm Lund

Next up was our second great ape encounter of the tour, a morning of chimpanzee tracking in Kibale Forest. The forest walk was pleasant, and we had an excellent viewing of chimps engaging in many interesting behaviours. What struck us most was how different this was from our mountain gorilla encounter. The gorillas were docile and calm, while the chimps were very vocal and constantly on the move in their forest home.

chimpanzee-uganda — A chimpanzee vocalising © Malcolm Lund

After Kibale, we got down to the serious business of Uganda birding. The lowland rainforest of the Congo Basin extends into the Albertine Rift Valley of extreme western Uganda. Two very special reserves there, Semliki and Budongo, are nirvana for serious birders.

royal-mile-uganda — The Royal Mile, Budongo Forest © Malcolm Lund

There are rewards for more casual birdwatchers, including many species of hornbills, kingfishers and bee-eaters. For hard-core twitchers, the deep forest birding is both challenging and very rewarding, with the enticing possibility of seeing birds that you will not find anywhere else in East Africa.

My personal favourite was a gorgeous chocolate-backed kingfisher, which gave us a memorable show along a beautiful forest path called the Royal Mile.

bee-eater-uganda — Red-throated bee-eater ©Malcolm Lund

Our final stop on the tour was in Murchison Falls National Park, where several compelling attractions competed for our attention. Much of the park is lovely savannah parkland dotted with Borassus palms.

Rothschild-giraffe-uganda — Rothschild giraffe © Malcolm Lund

Huge numbers of antelopes such as Uganda kob, waterbuck, topi, hartebeest and oribi mingle with elephants, buffaloes and giraffes. And flowing dramatically through the middle of the park is the grand Victoria Nile, with its complement of hippos, crocodiles and teeming birdlife.

Uganda-Hippos — A pod of hippos © Malcolm Lund

We couldn’t have scripted a better finish to our safari. On a Nile cruise on our final morning, we ended just as we had started: with a photo shoot of that rare, magnificent, one-of-a-kind Ugandan special, the shoebill.

shoebill-uganda — The iconic shoebill © Malcolm Lund

Uganda proved to be much more than we imagined, with something for everyone – beautiful and diverse landscapes, very welcoming people, world-class guides, excellent game reserves, unforgettable great ape encounters, and truly outstanding birding.

Even with over 440 bird species in 19 days, we were lucky not to have seen them all – because now we have a reason for a return trip to Uganda!

Find out about Uganda for your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

nile-uganda — Sunset over the Nile ©Malcolm Lund

Bushmeat hunting alarmingly high in South Africa

Bushmeat hunting in Africa is rife, with estimates stating that more than eight million tons of wild animals are eaten every year. Although most research on this hunting focuses on the tropical forests of Africa, in countries such as the DRC and Cameroon, the following survey results show that hunting for the pot is very common in South Africa.

bushmeat-hunting-Africa — Primates are often consumed as bushmeat in Africa. ©Name withheld

As the infographic below shows, a study exclusively made available to Africa Geographic shows just how serious the problem is in savannah habitats too. The survey results, which surveyed rural inhabitants in KwaZulu Natal, South Africa, show that 90% of men hunt illegally, but none of the women surveyed hunted.

Amongst the men who hunted, most claimed that they hunted more than three times a week, and more than three-quarters of the men hunted at least weekly. When asked if they were worried about getting caught and prosecuted for illegal hunting, over 95% of people said they were unafraid of getting caught.

The survey asked what methods of hunting respondents used. The most frequent hunting method was the use of traps and snares, which is also the most wasteful method of hunting, as often animals are not collected from snares and left to rot. The second most common method of hunting was using dogs to chase down prey. Very few men hunted with guns, and most said the reason for this was they could not afford them.

Most men – 65% – said they hunted to feed themselves and/or their families. Approximately 20% hunted for sport or gambling (placing bets on the outcome of the hunt, for example, whether the dogs will catch prey), whilst 5% hunted for traditional medicine. The implications of such responses are important not just for conservation because, whilst the number of animals lost is significant, the fact that almost seven out of ten respondents were hunting to eat makes this a significant human welfare concern.

It is easy to argue against illegal bushmeat hunting, but with hunger as the driving force, it is difficult to moralise. What is clear is that further research is needed to identify bushmeat hotspots across Africa and to aid control measures that prevent huge losses of animals in these areas, with a specific focus on animals that are declining significantly due to these hunting pressures.

ALSO READ: Saving rodents, losing primates – we need tailored strategies to manage bushmeat trade

Hope: a rhino’s story of survival

Award-winning filmmakers Susan Scott and Bonné de Bod are currently filming the much-anticipated documentary film, STROOP. The duo are in the editing stage, and the film about rhino poaching is due for release by the end of 2016. Bonné is well-known as a South African wildlife television presenter. The special story of Hope has temporarily paused their journey.

We all know the image of a rhino poaching by now. We have seen the bloated carcass of a once majestic animal and, of course, the cruel empty space of missing horns set against blood-red tissue and bone.

Johan-Hope-Evaluation-Rhino — Bonné de Bod and Dr Johan Marais of Saving The Survivors with Hope, the rhino, on a recent evaluation.

Early on in our filming of STROOP, we realised that once… well, once was enough for most folk. We were new to partnering social media with filming, but it was and still is our connection with those who fund the film – the public. Not only is it vital for us to share our filming journey, but it’s also a great way for us to see immediately what people want to know more about and what they don’t like. And what they don’t like are pictures of dead rhinos with hacked-out faces lying rotting in the African sun. Literally, the minute we share a post with a poaching image, we lose followers on our page, and we’d receive messages saying images like this should not appear in early morning coffee time on Facebook feeds! So people care about our rhinos and are worried about the crisis, but not the gore, the reality smacking them in the face.

All this changed just over a year ago.

Hope-Legs-Hope-rhino — Hope’s legs during one of her immobilisations on her side.

A horrific photo of mangled pink tissue against a backdrop of grey skin showed up in our news feed. This time, though, the rhino was alive. She had been darted and left for dead after the poachers cut deeply into her sinuses, removing most of her face. It was incredibly tough to look at this image of what was left and even harder to believe she had survived for days before being found. She was moved to Shamwari’s rehabilitation centre, where the veterinary organisation Saving The Survivors was called in to start treatment on her face.

The-Face-of-Hope-rhino — Dr Johan Marais documenting Hope’s wound progress.

It seemed an impossible task, and a controversial one too, as many in the “rhino industry” disapproved, wanting her to be put down – euthanised because she was beyond care. Those working with the rhino named her Hope.

Dr Johan Marais, CEO of Saving The Survivors, is one of our characters in STROOP. We had been with him before on treatments of poached rhino survivors, but nothing prepared us for seeing Hope.

As Bonné said, “You can look at photos and feel a pull in your stomach at the brutality and how painful that must be for her. But when you smell the fresh tissue and blood, when you hear her breathing through that mangled mass, and you turn to look at what’s left of her face, and she looks at you and then blinks … wow. You can’t explain that. And that’s my job, explaining this to people who can’t be there. How do you do that when there aren’t words made for this?”

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Clearly, this resonated with people around the globe. Almost overnight, Hope became a media sensation. She was featured in hundreds of print publications and on all the major news channels and networks worldwide. She suddenly became the most famous rhino on the planet, and social media peeps couldn’t get enough of her. Posts went viral. Americans, Europeans, Australians, Egyptians, Brazilians, Ukrainians, Fijians… every corner and every far-flung place, thousands of miles away from the Eastern Cape shrubbery of her home, wanted more information. How much she was eating, what she was eating and most especially, her wound covering and the technology involved in her many operations became long discussion points on Facebook.

rhino-Hope — Dr Gerhard Steenkamp of Saving The Survivors drilling screws into Hope to hold her wound-protecting shield in place.

The healing process under her wound covering was obviously becoming itchy for Hope. Dr Marais and the team of vets would drill screws into what was left of her bone structure to hold a variety of coverings ranging from fibreglass to metal to cutting-edge materials from the military and even cured elephant skin. Varieties of surgical steel wire and different binding techniques were used to hold the covering where there was no bone or where sections of her top lip used to be. But this gal always found ways to rip the coverings off!

rhino-poaching-wire-surgery — Dr Gerhard Steenkamp of Saving The Survivors working with surgical stainless steel wires on the rhino survivor Hope in the Eastern Cape.

Hope-Plastic-Surgery-Technology-FG-web — The ABRA® plastic surgery technology being used for the first time on an animal, in this case, rhino poaching survivor Hope.

She was also quite bad-tempered, and who can blame her? When a new boma structure was being built for her, she would stand at the top of a hill in her enclosure, move her head side to side to look through her bandages at people working at the boundary and then move her massive two-tonne body in a full-blown charge down towards the fleeing workers! She would only stop millimetres from the fence line, causing everyone to draw breath at the expected damage to her face from fence posts. The thought that this animal was feisty or an emotional eater fuelled social media even more. Her global reach has been impressive for sure, but she has given a face to rhino poaching that no human could ever do. With each operation, she shows us all the struggle to survive. To get back to normal when it’s quite clear “normal” is as difficult as landing on Mars.

It’s been a year of operations and searching for ways to do the impossible and close the wound. It’s hard to believe that in seven years of poaching, so little is known about the facial structure of rhinos. Dr Marais, also a professor at Onderstepoort, has been cutting up rhino heads from carcasses and x-raying, MRI and CT scanning rhino skulls in a desperate effort to know more about what lies behind Hope’s damage.

rhino-ct-scan — Bonné de Bod interviewing Dr Johan Marais of Saving The Survivors before he conducts a CT scan of a rhino poaching victim’s skull.

The journey of finding solutions has, of course, been shared on social media and has had the mushroom effect of finding ideas from all over, especially those never used before on animals. A Canadian plastic surgery technique of pulley systems and “glue-on-steroids” is now being used on her in the hopes of pulling the wound closed. It beggars belief but it seems to be working. Her face has changed dramatically, and there are always never-ending discussions about this online. But Hope being Hope, she has also thrown her facial surgeons by, unbelievably, growing a new back horn!

Hope-and-Press-rhino — Hope on an operation day where the press have been called in to document her journey.

Hope-Limpopo-Boma-rhino — Hope the rhino poaching survivor exactly one year after her poaching with her wound covering off.

We look forward to including this incredible animal in our film, and as Bonné so appropriately said after the first time she saw her, “I felt so privileged to be making eye contact with this animal who has been made ugly by human greed but has become so beautiful because of her desire to live.”

Walking Chief’s Island, Okavango Delta, Botswana

Tim and Heather Doyle recently went on safari to the Okavango Delta in Botswana with Africa Geographic. Here’s what they had to say about their trip.

On our first evening at the mobile tented camp on Chief’s Island, the frog calls were deafening! The list of amphibians included the raucous toad, painted reed frogs, and many others. At the same time, a bull elephant browsed in the reeds towards the setting sun. It was just an awesome time before darkness fell!

This was our first safari to the Okavango Delta, and we agreed on an itinerary comprising flights between Maun and Chief’s Island, the first and last nights at Gunn’s Camp, and three nights in a mobile tented camp. June was a great time for the trip as the seasonal flooding is almost at its peak, but it can get chilly at night.

The trip comprised a combination of boat trips from Gunn’s Camp exploring the nearby delta channels, mokoro trips and walking from the tented camp. We did have our first lesson in piloting the mokoro ourselves, which was a lot of fun, and we stayed dry.

We believe walking safaris are the ultimate adventure, experiencing the environment and wildlife on foot. Our two guides, Mike and Edward, who looked after us for the six days, were phenomenal – very knowledgeable and safety aware.

Several times, we encountered male buffalo on our walks without incident. We respected the distance to them, watched them for a time, and moved on.

The birding in the Okavango Delta is just spectacular, and highlights for us included wattled crane, coppery-tailed coucal and a pair of Pel’s fishing owls.

Elephant sightings were frequent, and a highlight of the trip was watching a breeding herd crossing a river channel, feeding as they went. There was also some excitement as we navigated narrow channels passing territorial male hippos. Unfortunately, we had no predator sightings on this trip, but we heard lions calling every night.

Thank you for a lovely trip!

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Africa Geographic team finds new location for previously ‘extinct’ frog species

The Bururi long-fingered frog (Cardioglossa cyaneospila), previously thought to have gone extinct in 1952 and then rediscovered in 2011 after one specimen was discovered in Burundi, has now been found in Nyungwe National Park, Rwanda – a new site for this frog. And a member of the Africa Geographic team made the discovery!

bururi-long-fingered-frog-rediscovered — The Bururi long-fingered frog

This exciting discovery was made by Africa Geographic director Christian Boix while on safari with clients.

Says Boix: “It was early morning, and our safari clients and I were trekking for chimpanzees in the dense highland rainforest of Nyungwe when I noticed this gorgeous frog in the dense undergrowth. At the time, I did not know it was once thought to be extinct, but it reminded me of poison dart frogs I had seen in South America, and I was curious about its identity. That evening, I emailed the picture to the Africa Geographic team in and asked them to confirm its identity. I am elated to hear that this is a discovery for this area and that we have contributed to the pool of knowledge about this stunning frog.”

Says an elated David Blackburn, Associate Curator of Herpetology at the Florida Museum of Natural History (University of Florida), and a member of the team that rediscovered the frog in Burundi in 2011: “This is only the second time that this species was found in Rwanda, the last time being in 1952. It has never been found in Nyungwe, but we expected it to occur there because of the available habitats. Following several initial records in the late 1940s and early 1950s, it was more than 50 years before more recent records in Uganda, Burundi, DRC, and now Rwanda.”

Read about the distribution of the frog here.

frog-forest — The forest habitat in which the frog was found.

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Gallery: Faces of Africa

This gallery Faces of Africa by the photographer Trevor Cole consists of several portraits taken in Ethiopia, Somaliland and Namibia. Trevor has a passion for indigenous people and how they live in such a connected way to their environment.
Portraiture is something that enables Trevor to see the person and relate to them. He feels that photography should be an interactive moment that captures the subject and offers an insight into their character. He aims for his images to portray a feeling or a connection, or perhaps even summon empathy.
As a result, some of his images are candid and spontaneous, while others may be posed but seek to expose an inimitable moment nevertheless. Trevor sees beauty in all, and he finds lifelines in the old, as well as the innocence of youth, enticing. He also seeks to convey somehow how people live, as well as their cultures and traditions. He feels that a portrait can reveal a hardship or happiness, and he has often noticed strikingly similar traits in communities, due to numerous environmental factors as well as genetics—Trevor endeavours to capture these common characteristics through alternative perspectives.
Trevor believes that taking portraits of people in the marketplace, street or a tribal village requires interaction. At times he discretely takes clandestine shots with a longer lens, but most of the time he likes to get to know whomever he is photographing. When it comes to portraiture, he always asks for permission and, if rejected, he respects personal choices, which may be based on conservative cultural or religious beliefs. However, in his experience, he does often find that spending a little time and using a little humour can yield a positive response.
Trevor notes that photographing tribal people requires a different approach. For example, a good guide is vital when it comes to photographing the Himba in Namibia. He has found that taking some provisions to the village and presenting them to the headman makes a huge difference and enables an amicable atmosphere that involves the whole village. In contrast, he has encountered a different ballgame in Ethiopia where there is the additional precedent of paying villages or individuals. However, Trevor always prefers to give to the village instead of a person because he feels that otherwise, there is a tendency to favour the most photogenic!
Trevor is very sensitive to the impacts that tourism can have, so he will always try to avoid treating a village like a zoo. He feels that it is all a delicate balance and a good guide can help to decide how best to go about things. For example, when he stayed in a Suri village, he wandered around without a camera to become a familiar sight as he believes that interaction is what can make the moment count. And at that moment he wants to capture light, colour, emotion, character and spirit. He tries to shoot in the golden hours or at least where there is shade from the intense African sun. In the right light, at the right time, with the right connection, Trevor believes that the ordinary becomes extraordinary, and that is something he strives for in his work.
Cover image of a Suri girl at a wedding ceremony in the Kibish region of the Omo Valley in Ethiopia.

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‘The miller’ © Trevor Cole

A young man emerging from the flour mill in a small town in eastern Ethiopia. The flour and dirt on his face, his eyes, and his candid expression make this image stand out. His portrait contrasted against a dark doorway makes a further visual impact.

‘Hamar beauty’ © Trevor Cole

A young girl of the Hamar tribe, which is one of the largest tribes in the Omo region of Ethiopia. They are culturally strong and still adhere to many of their ancient traditions.

‘On the edge’ © Trevor Cole

An Ethiopian man in the town of Harar, is living on the edge of existence. His expression and somewhat startled look drew me in to capture the moment. His face portrays a life of struggle and hardship, and his gaunt look adds to the impact of the image and highlights his impoverished state.

‘Girl from Afar’ © Trevor Cole

A young girl from Afar in the Danakil Desert area of Ethiopia. The Afars are complicated to photograph, but occasionally the opportunity materialises. The girl had facial tattoos, which are commonplace in the women of the tribe. They lead a very tough life and are resilient people, but the women often engage in traditional practices that are difficult for westerners to comprehend.

‘On the path’ © Trevor Cole

A man from Harar on his way to the Mosque. Clearly, his mind and focus were elsewhere, as he was oblivious to the candid image being taken of him on the streets of Harar in eastern Ethiopia. Harar is the fourth city of Islam, hence the devotion of its populace. The old man had an interesting face, which was a reflection of not only his walk to the mosque but also his journey through life.

‘Suri tradition’ © Trevor Cole

A young Suri woman with a large lip plate. Younger women are now being discouraged from putting in lip plates, but the tradition does still exist in more remote areas of the western Omo Valley in Ethiopia.

‘Beauty in Afar’ © Trevor Cole

A beautiful young Afar girl in the Afdera region of Ethiopia. Afars are Muslim, so their attire tends to be conservative. Women wearing the hijab, or headscarf, can be seen in many parts of the world, but unmarried girls from Afar noticeably tend to enjoy colourful attire. They also braid their hair in a very distinctive manner and adorn themselves with beads.

‘Hamar siblings’ © Trevor Cole

There is an inextricable bond between Hamar siblings in the Omo Valley of Ethiopia, as many take on responsibility for younger family members at an early age. Brothers and sisters have a very special relationship, which can be particularly noticed during the bull jumping ceremonies that are a rite of passage for young boys when they come of age.

‘Afar vision’ © Trevor Cole

A young girl from Afar in traditional attire with eyes that reflect and draw in the viewer. Despite living a hard life, the people of Afar are very proud and resilient in their isolation. This particular girl has a very serene face with an inimitable allure.

‘The old woman of Berbera’ © Trevor Cole

An old woman, who has lived life and was still doing so, on the streets of Berbera – a coastal port in autonomous Somaliland. It is an important seaport because it is the only sheltered harbour in the southern part of the Gulf of Aden.

‘Himba braids’ © Trevor Cole

A young Himba girl with striking features and beautifully braided hair in the Kunene region of Namibia. Young Himba girls typically have two braids, which come forward over the face. These are called ozondato and are covered in wood resin to stiffen the braiding. Each style is determined depending on the paternal clan.

‘The Somalilander’ © Trevor Cole

An old man in Hargeisa in Somaliland, who was wearing rather cool Rayban-esque frames. Somaliland is an independent nation that is internationally recognised as an autonomous region of Somalia, but its sovereignty is only accepted by Ethiopia and Djibouti. The people are proud of their nation and resolute in their right to independence. Despite perceptions to the contrary, it is a safe, if rather adventurous, place to travel.

‘I am Hamar’ ©Trevor Cole

A Hamar girl at the market in Turmi in the Omo Valley of Ethiopia. The girls take pride in their appearance on market days as they get to meet and interact with others in the marketplace.

About the photographer

Trevor Cole aims to capture people, landscapes – and the interactions between them – in a world that is constantly in transition. As a ‘geographer photographer’, his goal is to capture the unique moments that will never materialise again.
Trevor has lived in England, Singapore, Togo, Italy, Ethiopia and Brazil but has recently returned to Ireland, his country of birth.
Photography and travel are two of his life’s passions. His photography focuses on culture, landscapes and wildlife – images that reflect a spatial and temporal journey through life, which try to convey a need to live in a more sustainable world. He seeks the moment and the light in whatever context, before using his photographic acumen to turn the ordinary into the extraordinary.
Trevor aspires to have an alternative vision for tomorrow, and he believes that photography can capture those moments that empower us to make a positive change in our world.
His photos have been exhibited in London, Ethiopia, Switzerland and Ireland, and he has had great success in various photo competitions. His images have also been featured in The Guardian, The Telegraph, National Geographic, and La Republica, as well as numerous photographic publications.

Swaziland: Africa’s Little Secret

As a South African, I’ll admit that I only thought of Swaziland as just an obscure little country almost entirely engulfed by my own, and I hadn’t considered it much of a travel destination. Perhaps because of its small size, Swaziland often tends to get overlooked when people are planning a trip through Africa. However, when Swaziland Tourism recently sent out an invite to join them on a media trip, I jumped at the opportunity to get off the beaten track and find out more about this unexplored treasure. I soon discovered that this Southern African country might be small but limitless.

As soon as we drove across the unassuming Ngwenya border from South Africa, I was struck by how the yellow of South Africa’s plains gave way to an eruption of pea-green hills and sandy red roads.

swaziland-panorama — The rolling hills of Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary ©Big Game Parks Swaziland

Swaziland’s diverse landscapes include magnificent mountains, gorges, rivers, waterfalls, lush valleys, typical African bush, and unique rock formations. Our five-day whirlwind trip saw us exploring both the glorious natural beauty of Swaziland as well as the heritage and culture of its proud population.

Action-packed adventure

Our journey started at Hawane Resort, which is not 30 minutes from the border. Nestled in Swaziland’s rolling hills, we got close to nature on horseback in this idyllic setting. Walking, trotting and sometimes unintentionally cantering through the grassy wilderness was a fantastic way to experience the country’s expansive beauty, and I immediately fell in love.

While our group leader, Star, sat nonchalantly astride his mare with his cowboy hat tipped partially over his eyes, the rest of us wiggled in our saddles through the first half of the ride. But as soon as we gained some confidence and crossed the road into the grasslands, we were blown away by the view before us. The crisp air and the scent of morning dew made for a heady combination, and my horse, Mystery, and I became fast friends as we strolled through our stunning surroundings together.

Horseback safaris are a great way to explore the wilds of Swaziland ©Big Game Parks Swaziland

hiking-swaziland — Take in the views and enjoy the fresh air of the mountains ©Big Game Parks Swaziland

Once we had been filled with our fair share of wonder, we returned to the resort with aching legs. We headed off to the Malolotja Nature Reserve, where we substituted our saddles for harnesses in preparation for a different adventure. Malolotja covers some 18,000ha and offers diverse wetlands, woods and highveld landscapes. And here in this mountain wilderness, we set off on a bumpy game drive, during which our guide regaled us with safari stories and pointed out the different antelope and far-off baboon troops that inhabit the reserve. We also crossed paths with two women who were gathering grass to create brooms and other household items, and this encounter served to highlight the secure connection that the local rural communities have with nature.

Our driver soon dropped us off at the starting point of a hike to the treetop canopy tour. As we hiked down the valley, rolling grasslands gave way to a dense forest of vibrant greens and the occasional ‘whoop’ of a calling primate. This tour is arguably one of the most beautiful of its kind, and it is a fantastic way to view the park from up high, thanks to a wobbly bridge and ten zip lines that offered some unforgettable scenes as we whizzed through the trees.

Exhausted after a day filled with activities, we were ready to leave this leafy paradise and unwind at the stunning Maguga Lodge, which presented the opportunity to round off the day perfectly with a sunset cruise on the Maguga Dam.

treetop-canopy-tour-swaziland — At the start of the hike to the Treetop Canopy Tour in Malolotja Nature Reserve ©Lucky Nhlanhla

swaziland-ziplining — Whizzing through the beautiful Malolotja Nature Reserve ©Canopy Tours South Africa

sunset-cruise-swaziland — Enjoying a well-deserved glass of wine on a sunset cruise on Maguga Dam ©Lizzy Moletsane

A Southern African sanctuary

The next part of our trip took us to the unforgettable Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, where our accommodation came in the form of beehive huts – a magical experience for someone whose sleeping quarters have always involved four walls and a roof. However, traditional elements were combined with a welcome level of luxury that included running toilets and a comfortable bed, rather than a traditional sleeping mat.

Prying ourselves away from the novelty of our new bedrooms, we explored the camp and park. Mlilwane is a secluded sanctuary in Ezulwini Valley, also aptly known as the ‘Valley of the Heavens’. It is Swaziland’s pioneer conservation area, and the name ‘Mlilwane’, meaning ‘little fire’ in the local SiSwati language, holds particular significance as it is considered to be the metaphorical spark that started a significant conservation movement in Swaziland that resulted in over 22 species being saved from local extinction.

Adding to the charm of Mlilwane, many of the antelope found in the park wandered into camp each day, and I came face-to-face with a startled-looking impala several times while walking back to my hut. Another treat is the warthog family that has made their home under the restaurant’s deck and that spends its mornings warming up by the continually burning campfire, which is rumoured to have not been extinguished in three decades.

milwane-dam — A beautiful dam in Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary ©Big Game Parks Swaziland

After arriving late the night before, our group was excited to partake in an early morning cycling safari to shake off the cobwebs. Mlilwane offers many different ways to experience the bush – from game drives to horseback safaris. Still, we had the chance to practice our pedalling on some somewhat professional-looking mountain bikes.

After a shaky first ride around the camp, we set off on the trail but soon stopped to gawk at a nearby crocodile sunning itself less than five metres away from the track. This was the first of many stops along the trail, and I soon got up to speed when I didn’t want to be left behind with the croc!

If you are moderately fit, which I’ll readily admit I’m not, a mountain bike is a great way to experience a safari. Much like on horseback, you can get closer to the wildlife than in a vehicle, as they aren’t scared off by the sound of an engine, and it offers the chance to easily stop to inspect termite hills and animal tracks that provide a richer experience of the bush.

swaziland-beehive-hut — Beehive huts with a touch of luxury in Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary ©Big Game Parks Swaziland

swaziland-bicycle-safari — Getting up to speed on a cycle safari through Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary ©Big Game Parks Swaziland

Culture

After spending the first half of our trip absorbing the natural beauty and wildlife that Swaziland has to offer, we spent the rest of our tour exploring the cultural heritage of which the country is so proud.

Swaziland upholds and embraces its ancient traditions. The different clans in Swaziland are all part of a single ethnic group that is united under the last true monarchy in the world, meaning that the current King and the Queen Mother have indisputable authority when it comes to governance. And while some people might be surprised to learn that King Mswati III has 15 wives – a number that increases yearly – the people seem to love the royal Dlamini family.

As each king tends to have many wives and many children, the heir to the throne is selected based on his mother’s status. The king, who is referred to as Ngwenyama (lion), has to be her only son and, once crowned, he is expected to choose wives from multiple clans to ensure national unity.

The Swazi nation hosts several ceremonies throughout the year to celebrate its heritage. Still, the most well-known is the Reed Dance – an eight-day ceremony during which young women honour the Queen Mother, who is known as Indlovukazi (she-elephant), by presenting her with freshly cut reeds at the royal homestead, before the dancing and singing begin.

swazi-cultural-dance — Traditional Swazi performances at Mantenga Cultural Village ©Katherine Verhoeven

While our visit didn’t coincide with the Reed Dance, we had the opportunity at the Mantenga Cultural Village to see some of the country’s traditional dances and many of their other costumes and customs. The performances were powerful, and you could feel the passion in the dancers’ movements, as grown men and young boys moved with the grace of ballerinas before stomping down with a thud.

While people are ferociously protective of their culture and way of life, they also love welcoming tourists. They can be master negotiators, which we discovered firsthand during our Mbabane Market trip. This market is a great place to pick up curios and handcrafted gifts, but it is best visited by those who are ready and willing to haggle. Excited calls in SiSwati welcomed us as we clambered out of our bus. A few hundred Rands later, we left with some stunning trinkets and a slightly dazed sensation at having encountered so many keen salespeople.

Finally, the last stop on our trip was in the country’s capital of Mbabane at the prestigious Mountain Inn, which has played host to many delegates over the years and overlooks the stunning valley below. Here, we ended our tour of Swaziland – with a glass of wine in hand, a content feeling of discovery, and a new appreciation of this marvellous part of the continent.

waterfall-matenga-cultural-village — The Matenga Waterfall greets visitors as they enter the cultural village ©Katherine Verhoeven

traditional-home-swaziland — Our guide, Lucky Nhlanhla, wearing traditional Swazi attire outside our beehive hut accommodation ©Katherine Verhoeven

When and how to get there

While the country has excellent weather all year round, it’s widely agreed that the best time to visit Swaziland is during the annual Reed Dance ceremony, which is particularly remarkable to watch as about 40,000 young women take part in the colourful celebrations. This event takes place around the last week of August or the first week of September, but the exact dates are based on ancestral astrology, so they are confirmed each year closer to the time.

While Swaziland is a beautiful country in its own right, flying straight into the international airport is rarely recommended, as it is far from the country’s main attractions. As a result, a preferred option is to drive to Swaziland from South Africa or Malawi, and, as it’s just over four hours by car from Johannesburg, it’s an excellent excuse for a road trip!

driving-swaziland — Take a drive through the stunning scenery of Swaziland ©Big Game Parks Swaziland

What to do

Swaziland offers many attractions to attract different travellers, and its tiny size lends itself easily to exploration. That said, you still need to know what you’re looking for to uncover all of its hidden treasures. A guided tour of the country is one of the best options to ensure you don’t miss out on anything, and hiring a Swazi driver allows you to learn firsthand about the rich heritage and wilderness. The Swaziland Tourism Association is situated on the Ngwenya border and can help guide your trip from there.

If you’re a bush enthusiast, a safari in one of the country’s game parks is a must, whether this is on horseback, bicycle or game drive. There is also the fantastic option of combining a trip to the reserves in Swaziland with a holiday at the Kruger National Park to make the best of two Southern African worlds.

cycling-safari-swaziland — Get your heartbeat racing along the scenic mountain bike trails ©Big Game Parks Swaziland

zebras-swaziland — Spot the stripes of a zebra in Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary ©Big Game Parks Swaziland

horse-safari-swaziland — Equine adventures across the plains of Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary ©Big Game Parks Swaziland

If birds get you reaching for the binoculars, Phophonyane Falls Nature Reserve near Pigg’s Peak not only offers beautiful riverine walks surrounded by mountains and waterfalls but over 250 species of our feathered friends, making it an ideal place for avian admirers, especially if the Narina trogon or crowned eagle is still on your bird list!

Those wishing to unleash their inner historian should visit Nsangwini Rock Art to see some of the world’s most diverse bushman paintings, which date back 4,000 years. It’s also worth stopping at Sibebe Rock, a famous execution rock used by ancient Swazi lawmakers, before hiking to explore the unique ‘Potholes’ rock formation at the Gap.

Shopaholics will also be in paradise as there are several shops to splash some cash, including Ngwenya Glass, where you can watch the glassblowers make beautiful curios from recycled glass. This is an entrancing sight to behold, and any purchase will support a great community project. A stop-off at the famous Swazi Candles to watch the candlemakers craft unique mementoes won’t go amiss, and a walk through Mbabane Market is the perfect place to brush up on your bargaining skills.

execution-rock-sibebe-rock — Sibebe rock – otherwise known as execution rock – overlooks the capital city of Mbabane ©Katherine Verhoeven

house-on-fire — A statue at the House on Fire entertainment venue (top left), Woven bowls on sale at the gift shop (bottom left), Sitting on the steps of an art installation at House on Fire (right) ©Katherine Verhoeven

Where to stay

Swaziland’s accommodation options are varied. What’s more is that they’re incredibly affordable compared with other leading safari destinations in Africa, and most also offer discounted rates during winter, which is their dry season. As the country is so small, you can stay almost anywhere and still have access to different attractions. This said, there’s nothing quite like waking up in the wilderness to the sound of wild animal calls, so a stay in one of the country’s three big game parks is highly recommended.

Most parks offer a range of options, from rustic camping to luxury lodges. Depending on your preferences, you can find unique accommodation in beehive huts in Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary or choose to pitch your tent at Malolotja Nature Reserve, which is an unparalleled choice for campers. Visitors here can hike into the hills and camp in several designated spots, where they are likely to be the only people for miles.

Find out about our ready-made safaris for your next African adventure – or ask us to build one just for you.

view-from-maguga-lodge — The view from Maguga Lodge over Maguga Dam ©Katherine Verhoeven

rolling-hills-malolotja-nature-reserve-swaziland — Marvel at the vast expanse of Malolotja Nature Reserve ©Katherine Verhoeven

About the author

Katherine Verhoeven is a Saffa through and through. Having studied Journalism and English at the University of Cape Town, she set her sights on the digital world and spent a year with the Africa Geographic editorial team as Community Manager, working hand-in-hand with lodge and tour partners to celebrate the continent.

Spending as much time travelling as she possibly can, Katherine has a ‘must-see’ list of countries that she is ready and raring to visit, but she enjoys bumbling around beautiful South Africa as much as she does exploring the rest of the world. Preferring to sit in front of a sunset rather than a television, she takes every opportunity to lock up her flat, pack up her bag, and hit the road to nowhere.

Watch: A baby snow-white baboon

A white baboon is a rare sight indeed, and capturing one on video is a never-to-be-repeated opportunity. This baby leucistic baboon was spotted during a game drive in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park.

This tiny baby’s eyes were normally coloured, leading observers to conclude that he was leucistic and not an albino. Read this post, The Black and White of African Wildlife Explained, for more information on the difference between the two conditions.

Gorillas, volcanoes and mountains of the moon

How often do you get to tick off two bucket list items in one safari? Well, if seeing Endangered mountain gorillas AND sleeping on the ridge of an active volcano floats your boat, then we have just the safari for you – and it’s one of our most popular safaris at the moment.

Our guests, Fatima and Dane Harvey answered some questions about their awesome safari: climbing Mount Nyiragongo, mountain gorilla trekking and visiting Lake Kivu.

accomodation-crater — Accommodation on Mount Nyiragongo’s crater edge ©Fatima and Dane Harvey

What was your favourite moment?

That first moment we saw the gorillas AND watching the volcano at night.

Nyiragongos-boiling-cauldren — Nyiragongo’s boiling cauldren

How were the guides?

The park rangers were wonderful; learning the town’s background, the forest and the gorillas was interesting.

What was your accommodation like?

The hospitality was incredible, and the food and service were great. We really enjoyed the lakeside location and furnishings in the common area. The rooms were basic but comfortable. We enjoyed the live show and music in the evenings. Accommodation on the volcano was basic (as expected), but the staff were wonderful – the porters were a godsend, and we adored our cook, Amani.

Was it worth the money? Would you travel with Africa Geographic again? Would you recommend Africa Geographic to others?

Yes, yes, yes!

3 tips from the Harveys

1. Invest in a good pair of hiking boots.

2. Layers of clothing are essential – you’ll experience sunshine, rain and cold in one day!

3. Ensure you bring enough local currency to tip porters, cooks and drivers – they work hard!

A brief overview of their safari

Their five-day safari started off in the modern and thriving capital city of Kigali in Rwanda, where highlights included the Kigali Genocide Memorial, which is a vivid testimony to the Rwandan people’s reconciliation achievements, and the Kimironko City Market, where all sorts of colourful and tasty food is on display.

The next leg of the safari was a short drive away – Volcanoes National Park – for the main event. Gorilla trekking was enjoyed in stunning forest scenery, which made up for the physically demanding one-to-six-hour walk.

mountain-gorilla — A mountain gorilla ©Fatima and Dane Harvey

Once the gorillas were located, all fatigue was forgotten as they enjoyed time with our enigmatic and dignified close relatives. This is one of the world’s most poignant and profound natural history experiences.

This unique safari’s final leg was across the DRCongo border – a four to six-hour hike to the lava cauldron of Mount Nyiragongo. After several hours of lush forest walking, their party emerged onto a plateau that felt like it was at the top of the world. They felt like the great explorers Burton, Speke and Livingstone as commanding views stretched across Lake Kivu, Rwanda and Burundi.

From there, the vegetation became low and flat as they summited Nyiragongo’s crater and gazed into the boiling cauldron below. That night, spent perched on the lip of the crater, is likely to be etched onto their memories forever. The dark of night emphasises the drama and spectacle of this active lava cauldron as it spits, flares and fountains in one of the greatest shows on Earth.

Mount Nyiragongo ©Fatima and Dane Harvey

Their transfer back to Kigali was likely in silence as they contemplated what is one of Africa’s most iconic safaris.

Famous big tusker Tim speared

Tim is Amboseli’s greatest elephant – the biggest tusker in the ecosystem and a huge contributor to safari tourism revenue. Because of the size of Tim’s tusks, rangers keep an extra eye on his whereabouts and always ensure that a team is near him for security and conflict mitigation. Info provided by Big Life Foundation

Last week, a call came through that Tim had run the narrow gauntlet through the Kimana Corridor, a critical area becoming increasingly constricted – down to less than just 1km in places – by agriculture and development, into Sidai ‘Oleng Conservancy. Tim was spotted towards sundown the following day with a piece of metal sticking out from his left ear at right angles.

Calls reverberated around the ecosystem. At first light, the next day, Big Life, Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) units, and Amboseli Trust for Elephants (ATE) research staff initiated searches throughout the corridor area and aerial surveillance was deployed.

After three hours, Tim was spotted from the air. Thanks to the fantastic response of everyone involved – along with Big Life, ATE, KWS, David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, and Tawi Lodge – enough manpower and vehicles were on hand to quickly and safely roll Tim onto his correct side for treatment.

To great relief, the spear wasn’t poisoned, and had gone through the ear and merely scratched the skin underneath. Within five minutes, Tim was up and heading back to the swamps in the middle of Amboseli. For now, Tim is safe.

However, this clearly illustrates that the Kimana Corridor has become an increasingly high-pressure area.

A couple of weeks ago, an appeal was launched for funding a 40km fence – a life-saving line of protection – along the edge of the farmland to keep the elephants and man separated and safe from one another. This, along with land leasing, is critical to the future survival of Tim, the other elephants, and the Amboseli ecosystem.

Subsequent note: Tim died from natural causes in February 2020

Missing the Mark: African trophy hunting fails to show consistent conservation benefits

The pressure on the trophy hunting industry to take increased responsibility for its impact on endangered and threatened species is growing, with the US now assessing the impact of their trophy hunting activities on African wildlife. The Democratic Staff of the House Committee on Natural Resources has published 25-page report discussing the failure of trophy hunting in conserving species in many areas of Africa.

The report discusses successful and failing programmes in-depth, but for those who don’t wish to read the entire document, here are the key findings. Of course, any summary will neglect the details, so the best option is to download and study the full report. Any omission is in the interests of expediency, and any perceived bias is unintended.

Introduction

The report acknowledges that although the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service’s (FWS) official stance is that the trophy hunting industry “can and has provided significant long-term benefits to the populations of many species,” in many instances this has not been the case.

The report then goes on to examine under what conditions trophy hunting may contribute to conservation, highlighting that “in places like the United States, where laws against wildlife poaching are generally well respected and enforced and transparent mechanisms funnel taxes and fees generated by hunters to effective conservation programs, hunting has helped restore populations of some prized game species” however in parts of Africa trophy hunting has not helped species.

The report examines the effects of trophy hunting on five major threatened or endangered game species (the African elephant, African lion, black rhinoceros, southern white rhinoceros, and leopard) in four African countries (Namibia, South Africa, Tanzania and Zimbabwe), noting that the laws, institutions, and capacity necessary to make trophy hunting benefit conservation are often lacking.

It notes that the FWS is responsible for significantly improving its permitting process to ensure that trophy hunting doesn’t destroy existing populations of these species.

Important findings of the report

1. Scientists believe Earth is now on the cusp of a sixth great extinction – the first one driven by humans. A major driver of this extinction event is poaching and trophy hunting and although poaching is a major driver, trophy hunting does remove significant numbers of animals and appears to be the primary driver of certain animal (such as lion) declines.

2. While some species can support a level of hunting, this report focuses on Threatened or Endangered animals, where there is little margin for error in managing these species.

3. American hunters of these species have the financial means to ensure that they act responsibly and not promote practices that are detrimental to wildlife. This is of great importance as the US is the world’s largest importer of wildlife trophies.

4. It is clear from this report and others that these hunters do not always act ethically or in a way that promotes wildlife conservation – as demonstrated by the killing of Cecil the Lion. In addition, there is no evidence that trophy hunting lessens the rate of poaching, despite claims to the contrary.

5. A strong legal framework that promotes conservation in the source countries is required to prevent these types of practices. In addition, hunting outfitters need to demonstrate conservation benefits. Obviously where corruption levels are high, trophy hunting ‘benefits’ are negligible or nil.

6. The findings of this report were that, in many instances, funds that should have been used for conservation were diverted from their purpose and instances of non-sporting hunting methods are increasing. In addition, some species are being hunted at a rate that out-paces reproduction, making the justification of trophy hunting very difficult.

7. The report notes that not all trophy hunting operations failed, with Namibia’s conservancy model working well to conserve wildlife and enhance local welfare.

8. On the importer side, the FWS has only required one import permit from 2010-2014, even though 2,700 permit-eligible trophies were imported during that time. Failing to do so meant that the FWS did not collect data, which is vital as many individuals or organisations are known to violate wildlife laws repeatedly.

9. Instead, the FWS often uses data from external organisations, including Safari Club International (SCI) – the biggest advocacy organisation for trophy hunting. At times, the FWS may not disclose the sources of data aside from authors without naming affiliation(s). Recent external evaluations of SCI ‘surveys’ found no scientific merit in any of them.

10. The report states the FWS is not using its position to ensure American trophy hunters are not making bad situations worse for African wildlife species.

Conclusions and recommendations

The benefits of trophy hunting cannot be assumed. There can be benefits, but only under specific conditions where corruption levels are low, legal frameworks are strong, and there is transparency regarding conservation funding practices.

American organisations need to do more to ensure that trophy hunting does not decimate struggling wildlife populations. Data collection from impartial and scientifically sound studies and the enforcement of permits is one way the FWS could assist African countries to conserve their wildlife.

In addition, the FWS should not allow imports without verifying that these imports enhance species conservation. Loopholes must be closed, and import permitting requirements must be tightened.

Finally, the report recommends that the trophy fees should be increased to fund scientific research and conservation and that trophies should only be imported from fair chase methods.

Tourists answer our 2016 African travel survey

Six safari questions answered by you:

We recently conducted a snap travel survey about six vexing questions that our travel clients and safari lodges are curious about. The interesting (and sometimes surprising) results are illustrated below. Thanks to all who participated, and here is the link to those who wish to do so now.

87% of you said YES to having children at safari lodges (we were surprised at this one), but the vast majority placed conditions on their approval.

We were equally surprised that 55% of you said NO when asked if wifi is essential on safari. During a previous survey, 68% of you told us you access the Internet for various reasons while on safari. Perhaps the difference lies in our use of the word ‘essential’ in this snap poll. The travel industry should take note of these statistics because the likely implication is that Internet access is an important factor when choosing your safari lodges.

79% of you prefer to be charged separately for drinks and 51% of you prefer to tip lodge staff directly, as opposed to via a communal tip box (2.5% do not tip at all). 81% feel that it’s unfair to charge single-person supplements, and a resounding 88% of you would pay a 1% voluntary conservation levy.

Our travelling audience

We know from a previous travel survey and ongoing audience monitoring that our audience is primarily from Europe / UK (29%), USA/Canada (26%) and South Africa (21%). We also know that 36% have travelled in Africa more than ten times and 33% between three and ten times.

Keep the passion

Full survey results below:

Q1: Should children be permitted at safari lodges?

Q2: Is it essential to have WiFi at your safari lodge?

Q3: Should alcoholic drinks be charged separately by lodges?

Q4: What about tipping guides and staff at your safari lodge?

Q5: Is it fair to charge single travellers a single-person supplement?

Q6: Would you pay a voluntary conservation levy of 1% of your lodge bill?

Find out about our ready-made safaris – or ask us to build one just for you.

Saving elephants

Laid on a mattress, covered in a warm woollen blanket, his chest rising and falling as he breathes, Murit sleeps soundly. Should he wake, a keeper is sleeping in a bunk above, ready to offer reassurance if he needs it. It’s a far cry from the weak and bruised baby with blood-red infected eyes that The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust (The DSWT) rescued in March 2015 after Murit was trapped in a well.

Murit was flown from Northern Kenya in a specially chartered aircraft to Nairobi, and he was one of 28 orphaned baby elephants rescued by The DSWT in 2015 as part of their Orphans’ Project. Permanently on standby, The DSWT swings into action with veterinary supplies, including IV drips and milk, the minute that a call to rescue is received.

saving elephants — Baby Murit gets the best of care after a traumatic experience ©The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust

Once at the orphanage, a period of intensive care begins as keepers work together to form a new family for the orphan, replicating all the actions that the elephant’s mother or herd would have carried out. The keepers feed the orphans a specialist milk formula – developed over 28 years by Dr Dame Daphne Sheldrick DBE – to ensure they grow strong. As a highly emotional species, the babies receive regular reassurance from their keepers, who even lend their fingers and thumbs for the orphans to suck. The keepers also slather suncream on the youngest elephants and wrap them in blankets for comfort and warmth when it gets cold in the evenings.

The Nairobi Nursery will provide a home to these orphaned elephants for the first three years of their life, and they are cared for by the keepers around the clock. But just as children must take steps to independence, the orphans graduate to one of three reintegration centres, where they take up to seven years to learn how to live as a wild elephant. From meeting wild herds and orphans that are living back in the wild to learning elephant society etiquette, The DSWT’s reintegration centres provide a haven for orphans to make the gradual transition while in the safe presence of the keepers.

Kenya safari — Benjamin Kyalo, head keeper at Ithumba Reintegration Unit, connects with an elephant ©The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust

Threats facing elephants

Intelligence, teamwork and compassion are some attributes accredited to elephants, the world’s largest land mammal. With a whopping 22-month gestation period, herds that stay together for life, and an impressive memory to boot, it is difficult not to sing the praises of this species.

But the words ‘crop raider’ or ‘problem animal’ might also be heard among those living near elephants. Amongst dealers in China, elephants are described as a ‘source of ivory.’ These phrases are demonstrative of the myriad threats that face pachyderms. The demand for ivory has led to increased poaching activities, and human populations have grown so much that they have expanded into elephant ranges. As a result of these pressures, there are now less than 400,000 elephants across Africa.

Demand for carved ivory was almost negligible 20 years ago in Hong Kong, thanks to a ban on the international sale of ivory in 1989 after a global outcry. However, two ‘one-off sales’ in 1999 and 2008 caused the popularity of ivory to skyrocket, which had a devastating impact on elephants in Africa. Weak penalties for poaching and the misguided impression that elephant tusks can fall out naturally like teeth are also to blame. One hundred thousand elephants were killed for their tusks between 2010 and 2012, causing population declines of as much as two to three per cent per year.

At this rate, and without action, elephants could be extinct from the wild within our lifetime. But the writing is not yet on the wall for this species, and The DSWT has been uniquely positioned for almost 40 years to help save the species. Working tirelessly through projects that encompass anti-poaching, vet units, aerial surveillance and, of course, their world-renowned elephant orphanage that cares for elephant calves whose parents are poaching victims, they’re the first line of defence for elephants in Kenya.

Wildlife safari in Africa — Aerial surveillance of elephant herds pushing through dense vegetation in Nairobi National Park ©The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust

Big 5 safari — Wild elephants ©The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust

A bird’s-eye view

Flying high over the acacia trees and herds of elephants that roam the Tsavo ecosystem is Neville Sheldrick, one of the pilots that make up The DSWT’s Aerial Unit. It’s a privilege that’s not lost on him.

“While our ground teams understand the situation on the ground, their work limits them to a relatively small area of operation. In the Aerial Unit, we have the amazing opportunity to experience every corner of the Tsavo ecosystem and beyond,” explains Sheldrick.

Tsavo is comparable to the size of Wales or Massachusetts, so the ability to fly is a huge asset when protecting such a vast ecosystem. The unit consists of four fixed-wing aircraft and one helicopter, and they operate daily to look for and report illegal activity, check on elephant behaviour, locate injured wildlife and fly out vets to help them and drive elephants away from communities.

Their role is especially vital when you consider that elephants can roam up to 80km over a day. While scouting for food and water or using traditional migratory paths passed down from female to female, elephants do not discern man-made boundaries where a national park might end and a farmer’s plot begins.

Increasingly, elephants are being forced into direct contact with humans due to communities building on national parks’ borders, small-scale farmers planting in buffer zones, and herders bringing cattle into the park searching for food and water. The consequences of human activity are immense – elephants can be seriously injured, or their calves can be abandoned in the chaos of conflict, while poachers can hide amidst illegal herders.

Bringing elephants back from the brink

It’s a little-known fact that elephants snore. It sounds like a deep rumble. Dr Rono, a Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) vet, would know best as he is part of one of the DSWT/KWS Mobile Vet units. To date, the teams have treated more than 1,800 elephants for wounds caused by poisoned arrows, spears and snares.

Dr Limo heads up The DSWT/KWS Mara Vet Unit, which is one of four DSWT/KWS Mobile Vet Units that cover 15 of Kenya’s national parks between them, in addition to the SkyVet service, which transports on-call vets to emergencies in remote or unattended areas. Thanks to Dr Limo and his colleagues, injured elephants and other wildlife have a lifeline. Each unit is fully prepared to treat any injured animal, thanks to a custom-designed vehicle and all the necessary equipment, including a vaccine refrigerator, dart gun, VHF radios, GPS, camera and binoculars.

Kenya safari trip — Arrows confiscated by anti-poaching teams ©Joachim Schmeisser and The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust

Anaesthetic and a good aim (with a dart gun) are vital. Weighing up to six tonnes, a fully grown wild elephant can pose a real threat to anyone who comes into close proximity, especially when dealing with a protective mother, anxious herds or loyal friends hiding out in thorny bushes. Treatment depends on the wound – removing poisoned arrows can be a relatively simple operation, which takes about 15 minutes, whereas treating bullet wounds is a difficult task, as some bullets can become embedded deep in an elephant’s body and be impossible to retrieve.

“Determination and a will to save Kenya’s wild species has pushed my team and I to deliver in even the most challenging situations,” says Dr Limo. “We do it out of determination and a love for these animals. It requires a lot of caution and courage, but at the end of it all, you feel greatly satisfied that you have helped to save one of these massive animals whose kind are dwindling,” he explains.

Big 5 safari Kenya — The DSWT/KWS Vet Unit in action ©The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust

Safari in africa — The DSWT/KWS Mara Mobile Vet team save the day ©The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust

The fruits of their labour

A little elephant named Wiva is a testament to the fact that protecting, treating and caring for elephants can mean more than just saving one individual. Wiva is one of 18 wild-born calves to orphans that are now living back in the wild, and by giving each infant a second chance, as The DSWT did for Wiva’s mother, The DSWT’s Orphans’ Project also allows elephants to have their own wild-born young, which further helps a population that is in decline.

Wiva’s mum, Wendi, is one of 190 orphaned elephants that The DSWT has successfully hand-reared thanks to the pioneering efforts of their founder, Dr Dame Daphne Sheldrick DBE, who discovered the milk formula baby elephants need and who established the core principles that the keepers follow. This knowledge has also been shared with other orphanages and sanctuaries to help orphaned infant elephants elsewhere. The DSWT’s passion for the species is regularly shared with local communities through community outreach projects, including creating beehive fences to reduce human-wildlife conflict.

The importance of The DSWT Anti-Poaching Teams, Aerial Surveillance and Mobile Vet Units, together with their Saving Habitats project, which safeguards areas of biodiversity importance, is evident. Working together, they provide a safety net for the orphans and their wild kin.

How you can help

All the work of The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust is funded by generous donations from passionate individuals concerned about the future of our wildlife. Whether you donate to a specific project or a particular item like a bottle of milk, your donation can make a difference on the frontline of elephant conservation.

Visiting the DSWT’s Elephant Orphanage in Nairobi National Park is one way to better understand their work. Open every day between 11 am and midday for a small entrance fee of US$7, you can see the youngest elephants have their mud bath and milk feed and perhaps meet a muddy little elephant with whom to exchange hellos. Visitors can opt to stay at eco-lodges in the Kibwezi Forest, which help to fund the DSWT’s projects and are located close to the Ithumba Reintegration Unit. Alternatively, you can relax and unwind at Nairobi Tented Camp – the only accommodation in the national park – and then you don’t even have to leave the park!

But perhaps one of the best ways to get involved is to foster an orphaned elephant. You can choose an infant elephant from as little as US$50 a year and follow their journey through monthly email updates. As the perfect gift for children, wildlife lovers or even yourself, it’s one way to get to know some of the characters at the nursery and be part of their recovery, as well as help protect the species’ future.

Back to the future

The DSWT believes there are few greater rewards than helping one of the world’s most iconic animals. Increasingly, the world’s citizens and governments are coming to this realisation too.

While working tirelessly on the frontline to protect elephants, they’ve been campaigning to end all ivory trade and are happy that some hugely positive steps have been taken in the past year. The most important of which are the recent announcements by China to end its legal domestic ivory trade. This should hopefully pave a new era for the species and if promises prevail, everyone can hope to secure a future for Murit and his wild kin.

Find out about KENYA for your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

About the author

Having established and directed The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust’s UK charity in 2005, Rob Brandford’s passion for wildlife conservation stems from his deep, personal appreciation for nature and wild spaces.

With a particular fondness for elephants, Rob remains committed to educating the world about the species’ crisis so that we can guarantee them a future together.

Gallery: Reflections of Elephants

In May 2014, Africa lost one of its greatest treasures – Satao, a truly magnificent elephant. As a great tusker, he carried enormous ivory, with each tusk weighing nearly 50 kilogrammes (110 pounds), and he roamed the red dust bush of Tsavo National Park in Kenya for about 50 years. Satao was killed with a poisoned arrow, his face crudely hacked away, his tusks stolen, and his body left to rot. The impact of his untimely, wasteful death was felt around the globe.
Bobby-Jo Clow is a wildlife photographer based in Dubbo, Australia. Satao’s death became the genesis for her new book project – one befitting the legacy of such a magnificent animal. Reflections of Elephants combines Bobby-Jo’s photography with the written reflections of a diverse team of writers, including best-selling authors, award-winning poets, conservationists and elephant experts from around the globe.
The cover photo of this gallery portrays a Tsavo tusker surrounded by his askaris. ‘Askari’ is the Swahili word for a soldier and is a term often given to young bull elephants found in the company of larger and older bulls. These young bulls learn many things from their more experienced teachers, lessons that they will need to learn to become a dominant bull. In return, these askaris provide company and security to the older bulls, detecting threats and dealing with dangers.

Find out about your next safari here – be it a ready-made safari, or ask us to build one just for you.

Bobby-Jo spent the morning in the Tsavo Trust aircraft called Ace, from which she photographed some of the elephant herds from above. Proceeds raised from Reflections of Elephants will provide fuel for ‘Ace’. © Bobby-Jo Clow

This is Bobby-Jo’s favourite image from the book. She waited 90 minutes for this bull to come close enough to their vehicle, and then he came so close that she had to use a wide-angle lens to take this photo of him. © Bobby-Jo Clow

A lone bull at dusk in a national park in Tanzania. This moment is representative of Heaven on Earth for the photographer. © Bobby-Jo Clow

Bobby-Jo waited an hour and a half for these bulls to come close enough so that she was able to take this shot. © Bobby-Jo Clow

This photo is of a famous tusker, which is a term given to an elephant whose tusks weigh in at 100 pounds each or more. © Bobby-Jo Clow

Reflections of Elephants cover

Reflections of Elephants will feature a foreword by New York Times bestseller, Bradley Trevor Greive AM, and the book will raise funds to protect elephants, especially the last great tuskers of Tsavo. All profits from book sales and a percentage of the money raised in crowdfunding efforts will be donated to The Askari Project – a fundraising initiative supporting the efforts of The Tsavo Trust. The money will help The Tsavo Trust with their anti-poaching operations and monitoring the last few great tuskers of the region, primarily through the use of aerial surveillance.
So, if you have loved what you’ve seen in this gallery, click here to buy this magnificent book, and play your part in helping to protect Africa’s elephants.
The cover photo of this book was taken at a photographic hide in Botswana, where Bobby-Jo spent a few days waiting for the elephants to turn up at the waterhole. She was finally rewarded on her very last afternoon when the light was gorgeous, and there wasn’t a breath of wind. The moment she clicked the shutter, Bobby-Jo knew she had her cover shot!

6 things to do in the Robertson Wine Valley

Living in the Cape, we are spoiled regarding gorgeous winelands. From the swanky Constantia Valley to historical Franschhoek and stunningly scenic Stellenbosch, we really have our pick of the grapes. But for me, the lesser-known and explored Robertson Wine Valley, has always held a special place in my heart.

A little further out of the way than the Cape’s more famous wine routes, the towns of Robertson, McGregor, Montagu, Ashton and Bonnievale combine to make up an area that features stunning scenery with awesome opportunities to wine and dine, all led by the most friendly wine-makers, chefs and farm owners.

The fun and fabulous Wacky Wine Weekend was held recently, and this festival only reminded me of all I love about this area. Here are just six of my favourite things to do in the Robertson Wine Valley:

1. Learn from the wine masters

A great thing about Wacky Wine is that farms around the valley open their doors to give you a glimpse behind the scenes as wine-makers and chefs let you in on their secrets. This year’s event saw visitors indulge in underground cellar tastings at Weltevrede and De Wetshof, while those in the know explained the finer details of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. And the good news is that many of the farms offer these types of experiences year-round.

cellar-tastings-robertson — ©Robertson Wine Valley/Breede Photography

Not that into wine? Then try a unique and personal grappa tasting experience at Tanagra with the owners of this boutique-style winery, or experience a tutored tour and tasting of the Klipdrift brandy distillery – nothing wakes one up like a brandy and ginger ale in the morning!

underground-cellar-tastings-robertson — ©Robertson Wine Valley/Breede Photography

2. A plethora of wine pairings

The farms in the Robertson Wine Valley offer an array of delicious pairings that make your wine-tasting experiences all that more exciting.

We indulged in a delicious homemade biscuit and wine tastings at Bonnievale Wines, luxurious chocolate and wine pairing at Rosendal, as well as a decadent array of goodies courtesy of the ‘fan pairing’ at Van Loveren, which pairs wines, a cream liqueur and even a wine slushy with some tasty nibbles. Van Loveren’s newest pairing, the ‘Fiver Party Plate’, also comes highly recommended as you get to pair some uniquely flavoured ciders with candyfloss, cake pops and cookies.

van-loveren-robertson-wine-tasting — ©Janine Avery

3. Get back to nature in the Breede Valley

The Robertson Wine Valley festivals allow visitors to enjoy the farms in their entirety. During Wacky Wine, we enjoyed a 4×4 nature bumble at Jan Harmsgat while Ashton Kelder offered game drives, and guided hikes with an experienced mountaineer and horticulturist were available at Wolvendrift. Earlier in the year, during the Hands-On Harvest Festival, we enjoyed tractor rides and potjie making in the vineyards at Graham Beck, while all year-round, the area offers a host of gorgeous hiking trails and scenic spots for picnics and days out in the sun.

breede-river-robertson — ©Robertson Wine Valley/Breede Photography

The Breede River runs through the valley, so canoeing and swimming are the order of the day during summertime, while boat cruises on the Breede at Viljoensdrift are definitely one of the highlights of the region – especially during the Wine on the River Festival in October.

breede-river-robertson-boat — ©Robertson Wine Valley/Breede Photography

4. A splash of culture

The farms and restaurants in the Robertson Wine Valley often host fabulous local bands and artists, so you can sip your wine in rhythm to a relaxed beat.

robertson-wine-music — ©Robertson Wine Valley/Breede Photography

At the Wacky Wine Weekend, they really pulled out the stops, with each farm seeming to have found some hidden talent. Lord’s Wines in McGregor even offered private concerts and movie nights, while Karen Zoid and Majozi graced the stage at Graham Beck. On a normal night in the valley, you are bound to find a budding guitarist strumming a tune at a cosy restaurant while local art brings a touch of colour to the walls of various eateries and tasting rooms.

wacky-wine-robertson — ©Robertson Wine Valley/Breede Photography

5. Unleash your adventurous side

At this year’s Wacky Wine Weekend, Robertson Winery and Impact Adventures hosted the 10th edition of their mountain bike event with four exciting routes for riders.

mountain-biking-robertson-valley — ©Robertson Wine Valley/Breede Photography

All year round, this area is a firm favourite for mountain bikers, while a range of other adventurous activities can also be found in the valley. From kayaking down the river to hikes in the mountains or rock climbing and abseiling in Montagu, the Breede Valley offers something for everyone.

Impact Adventures also runs adventure camps and team-building weekends for those looking for an adrenaline-filled getaway.

swing-impact-adventures — ©Impact Adventures

6. Food, glorious food in the Robertson Wine Valley

Last but not least, you can’t have wining without dining! Spoilt for choice in the Robertson Wine Valley, a host of lovely delis and outdoor restaurants offer the opportunity to kick back and relax with a bottle of bubbles. This weekend, a braai-fondue experience with a magnificent selection of Namibian meats could be found at Rietvallei, while at Rosendal Winery, a twist to the normal dining experience was offered with a ‘guess the meal’ dinner.

robertson-wine-valley-food — ©Robertson Wine Valley/Breede Photography

Excelsior’s Deli offers gourmet ‘roosterbrood’ sandwiches any day of the week, and you can also blend, cork and bottle your own creation in their tasting room before sitting down to your picnic on the lawn overlooking their dam.

robertson-wine-bottling — ©Robertson Wine Valley/Breede Photography

Then, for those who can’t do wine without olives, Marbrin Olive Growers offers unique, up-close tours of their olive farm and the chance to learn about how olives and olive oils are processed.

All in all, life in the Robertson Wine Valley is about slowing down, enjoying the journey, and not racing around from one farm to another. It’s about connecting with the land and with the people that call this area home, and it is well worth the visit any time of year.

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The wilds of East Africa – photo gallery

The magic of Kenya and Tanzania is stronger than ever in this selection of evocative black-and-white photographs by Federico Veronesi.

In the cover photo above, a lion enjoys the warm rays of the sun that have finally broken through the clouds in the Serengeti National Park. This male and his two brothers have recently moved into this new territory where many females reside. They are young, healthy, and in their prime, so they will hopefully sire many cubs in the months ahead.

While driving around a croton bush surrounded by the vast open plains of the Maasai Mara National Reserve, I frequently stopped to listen to the alarm calls from birds or dik-diks that might reveal a predator hidden in the bushes. For a long time, nothing happened, and the air was mostly silent. Then suddenly, a loud call from a slate-coloured shrike broke the silence. A few seconds later, it happened again.

I slowly drove closer, but I couldn’t see anything. I tried to pinpoint the bird’s location to localise the area, and eventually, I found it perched on top of a bush, looking down into the thicket. I turned the engine off and waited, binoculars in hand, trying to catch a rustle in the undergrowth. Then, finally, something started moving deep inside. Two brownish feline caracals – a mother and a fully grown cub – became visible. I looked harder and noticed a freshly killed impala fawn, and took this photo when the cub approached the carcass to start feeding.

I parked on the edge of the dry Amboseli lake early one morning as the sun struggled to shine through a layer of clouds. From a small elevation, I scanned the opposite side of the lake using a pair of binoculars. I saw wildebeests, zebras, gazelles, and a couple of giraffes walking across the landscape. And then I noticed some small dust devils rise in the far distance. Finally, huge dark shapes appeared through the hazy air. Elephants.

These gentle giants cross the lake frequently to reach the water points and the lush marshes in the heart of Amboseli National Park. A matriarch led her family on this long journey, which took them about one hour over hard, cracked soil. They followed ancient trails that their ancestors had used for thousands of years. Sometimes, they paused to smell other elephants’ droppings, to see who had passed by before them. I stopped far away and waited for them to come toward me. It was a magnificent and timeless scene.

I encountered a small group of southern white rhinos on the grassy shores of Lake Nakuru one morning. The sun hadn’t yet cleared the hills in the east, and a soft mist was still hanging over the water. The incessant call of the flamingos was the only sound I could hear. Most of the rhinos were still resting, but one of them was awake. I waited for the sun to shine on its thick skin, highlighting the beautiful texture, before taking this photo.

Although they aren’t originally from East Africa, southern white rhinos have reproduced successfully in Lake Nakuru National Park after having been transferred there from South Africa in the 1990s. They have bred so well that many have been translocated to other parks and conservancies in Kenya over the years.

Huge rocky outcrops rise in the middle of the endless plains of the Serengeti National Park. These are called kopjes, and they are an excellent home for the many lion prides that inhabit these lands.

Early one morning, four lionesses and three males were actively following each other up and down the rocks after it had rained almost incessantly the previous day. While the morning sun struggled to shine through the lingering clouds, this male lion paused on his way down to survey his kingdom.

The sun appeared below the clouds before sinking behind the horizon in the Maasai Mara one late afternoon. The light in Africa on the equator is only good for a very short time after sunrise or before sunset, and in these moments, I hate being caught out on the plains without a subject. In these moments, the light becomes such a beautiful and dramatic element that it can make the portrait of any animal fascinating.

On this particular day, two beautiful buffalo bulls were sitting in the middle of the plains. I approached them slowly to allow them to become habituated to me, as I wanted to get quite close to them to frame what I felt were their most impressive features – their horns and eyes. I wanted the light coming from behind them to emphasise the texture of the horns and to reflect on the pupil. And my vision came together in this image.

It was a cold and gloomy day in a remote area of the Mara. Just as I was about to reach the bottom of a valley, I noticed a cheetah to my left – it was a female, and she was stalking an impala just ahead of her. As she crept forward, I realised that there was another cheetah behind her – and another one. There were six adolescent cubs in total, which were all almost as big as their mother but still had fur on the back of their necks.

I parked and watched the mother cheetah explode in a fantastic chase. As soon as the impala was on the ground, the young cheetahs boldly ran across the gulley to reunite with their wonderful mother. She has kept all of them safe and healthy for 14 months in the heart of lion country, which is quite an extraordinary achievement.

These cubs are now ready to fend for themselves, and their mother probably needs some rest. As the young cheetahs voraciously feed, she sneaks out of their sight, and then she is gone. After feeding, they look around, wondering where their mother is, anxiously awaiting her return, which will never occur. From now on, they’ll be on their own.

On a cloudy afternoon in August, I was driving on a slippery track along the edge of a forest in Lake Nakuru National Park. Soon, it started pouring, and I knew I had to pay attention to the track not to get stuck for the umpteenth time. However, I also tried still to keep an eye on every branch and every bush until, finally, I spotted the unmistakable shape of a feline on a fallen log.

It was a leopard in the pouring rain, a huge female that I have seen many times and has two fully grown daughters who are also often seen in the area. The rains probably woke her up from her afternoon rest, and she stretched and licked the water off her fur. Then suddenly, a five-month-old cub, which I had never seen before, climbed on the log. She licked it for a while before the cub descended to play on a dry bush at the tree’s base. Soon, she jumped down, too, and together, they disappeared into the forest’s depths.

During the wet season, big herds of elephants gather around the swamps of Amboseli to feed on the fresh green grass. As food is abundant and especially nutritious during this period, this is also the peak time for socialisation.

The youngsters and calves are energetic, often engaging in games and play-fights. Many females also come in estrus around this time, attracting males from the entire ecosystem. Fights frequently erupt between males who are not willing to acknowledge submission. However, none of these males will dare to challenge the famous big tusker, Tim – Amboseli’s biggest and most dominant male.

One early morning, I spotted a huge herd of wildebeest heading towards the opposite bank of the Talek River in the Maasai Mara National Reserve, and their intention to cross over was clear.

As the sun struggled to shine through a layer of clouds, the animals descended the banks with little hesitation. The water was very shallow, so there wasn’t a massive danger in terms of crocodiles lying in wait or fast-flowing rapids, but the banks were very steep and slippery. Lions and leopards also often ambush the animals in these situations, taking advantage of the channels dug by hippos.

However, on this particular day, the crossing went smoothly. The animals ran across the river in their thousands, but when I turned around, I realised that those that had successfully crossed the river had grouped just above the banks instead of dispersing across the plains. The first animals to cross over had stopped and looked intently in one direction. I looked through my binoculars and saw a lone male cheetah ambling by, not actively hunting but still posing a great enough threat to halt the natural flow of the migration.

The air was chilly on the morning that I took this photo, and I headed towards Lake Nakuru to be there way before the sun rose. When I reached my spot on the lakeshore, the barely lit mist lingered on the water, enveloping a colony of lesser flamingos.

I watched as the light intensified in the east and on the lake, silhouetting the flamingos against this ethereal layer of a shroud. On the far shore, some flamingos abruptly took off, while the ones near me noticed the alarm calls and looked up. A spotted hyena was hunting along the shore, causing panic among the birds.

On the shores of Lake Nakuru, a daily ritual occurs at around sunrise. As the flocks of lesser flamingos feed peacefully in the shallow waters, a couple of spotted hyenas cross the plains and quickly approach the sandy shore.

The nearby birds look up at them warily. As the first hyena enters the water at a steady pace, the flamingos start walking away in unison. The hyena then sprints toward them at full speed, and its endurance is impressive, but all the flamingos are quick enough to take off before the hyena reaches any of them.

The sky turns pink as the flamingos fly along the lake’s edge to another shore. The hyena stops and looks at the now-empty section of the surrounding lake. Unabated, it heads back to the shallow waters and walks towards other flamingos instead. Though it seems like an almost impossible task, this carnivore will try three times again before retreating to the forest to rest as the day gets warm.

It was early morning in the Mara after a night of heavy rain. I ventured out onto the plains, my tyres slipping on the wet track, intending to cross the river once I reached it. However, I found it to be full of raging water as a result of a flash flood. My plans for the morning quickly changed, and I decided to stay on the same side of the river as I was already on.

After a short while, I was thrilled to find a couple of amorous lions lying in the wet grass. Flies buzzed around them in droves, and they mated approximately every 15 minutes. This continued for a period of five to seven days.

I am always fascinated by the explosion of violence that marks the end of each bout of intercourse, with both male and female growling at each other with bared teeth. Peace is restored immediately after this, and the female generally turns on her back to ease ovulation while the male looks around before lying down again.

I was driving along the Mara River with a dark sky hanging over my head and a cold wind blowing from the northeast. When it neared midday, the clouds broke into heavy rain, and the storm caught a pod of basking hippos by surprise. Initially, they didn’t move but as the rain increased, they got up individually and returned to the water.

Their enormous, shiny backs formed an interesting composition as they were all hit by the rain next to each other. I opened the window just enough to sneak the lens out and take some images, but in the space of just a few seconds, both the camera and I were completely soaked.

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About the author

Born in Italy in 1975, Federico Veronesi is a wildlife photographer who has been fascinated by large African mammals since childhood.

In 2002, he moved to Kenya to follow his dream of living full-time amongst them. Since then, he has spent most of his days in the wilderness of East Africa, photographing the wildlife day after day, following their lives, and watching their stories unfold against the majestic backdrop of the African savannah.

Federico’s work spans from black and white to colour. He always looks to blend light, emotion, contrast, scenery and atmosphere into evocative images. His coveted prints are now sold worldwide, and the BBC regularly uses his images in their books to accompany their much-loved nature documentaries.

In his first book, Light and Dust, which was published in 2015, Federico reveals animals’ most intimate behaviour and emotions, and their resilience and beauty, as well as the wilderness that they live in. To do so, he sought the most dramatic weather conditions – morning mists, dust storms, heavy rains or rays of light shining through the clouds – and followed the animals on endless journeys along ancient trails, across dry lakes and raging rivers, and watched them fight for survival with undying strength and determination.

Federico is also a professional guide certified by the Kenya Professional Guides Association. He organises and leads photographic safaris in East Africa and other African countries.

SANParks concerned about the use of mobile apps for wildlife sightings

The introduction of mobile apps for wildlife sightings – designed to share information on interesting animal sightings in Kruger National Park – has become a major cause for concern for South African National Parks (SANParks).

The rise in the use of these applications has resulted in an increased rate of lawlessness in the parks, including speeding, congestion at sightings as well as road kills caused by guests rushing to and congregating around these sightings.

This is according to SANParks Managing Executive: Tourism Development & Marketing, Hapiloe Sello, who said SANParks has been inundated with scores of customer complaints emanating from the use of these mobile applications.

According to Sello, since the arrival of mobile apps for wildlife sightings, authorities have received a considerable increase in reports of speeding cases, road kills, and road rage incidents at sightings. “As an organisation, we appreciate the fact that technology has evolved and that guests are taking advantage of it. However, this compromises the values of good game viewing in national parks.”

She said, “SANParks holds a leading position globally in the conservation of biodiversity and the management of eco-tourism; it would therefore be regrettable for SANParks to turn a blind eye to trends that reverse the gains made in these fields.”

“Most guests appreciate the leisurely drive through the parks and the potential reward of a good sighting as a key element of the visitor experience. This is an experience that SANParks commits to protecting, and therefore, the usage of these mobile applications is in direct contradiction to the ethos of responsible tourism espoused by SANParks.”

“We at SANParks discourage the use of these mobile applications as they tend to induce an unhealthy sense of eagerness for visitors to break the rules and we are exploring legal mechanisms to curtail the use of sightings apps,” concludes Sello.

Why Etosha is the perfect place to sketch wildlife

I was looking for a unique African wildlife experience, and the Africa Geographic team suggested that Etosha in Namibia would be the perfect place to start! By Francisco Hernandez

After a very pleasant flight over Africa, with incredible views, I picked up my car in Windhoek and drove to Okaukuejo Camp in Etosha National Park, arriving shortly after sunset. As I drove through the main gates to explore the surroundings of Okaukuejo Camp, my first impressions were summarised in one word – amazing.

In Okaukuejo, as you approach the waterhole on foot, you start hearing sounds that are reminiscent of an African wildlife documentary and the feeling that envelops you is one of calm. The meditative state is interrupted only by the sound of water splashing, animal grunts and birdsong.

Only once you reach the banks of the waterhole does your mind start to take in the tremendous beauty of the surroundings. I could only stare in disbelief. At first, it was difficult to comprehend that what I was witnessing could be real. The animals were completely disinterested in us and went about their business as if we weren’t there.

For three days straight, I drew. The waterhole teemed with wildlife, from sprightly springbok to enormous elephants and oryx, kudu, giraffe and many more. I scarcely put down my pencil.

Etosha — Giraffe head study by Francisco Hernandez

Sketching wildlife is notoriously difficult; animals are not in the habit of posing. But here, it was often the case that there were so many animals in one area that if the animal you were drawing moved, there were 10 others in the same position that you could focus on instead. Sometimes, it was necessary to practice a bit of patience, but ultimately, another animal almost always took up the same position a few moments later. Frequently, the animals often remained in the vicinity of the waterhole for a long enough time to be able to complete some sketches.

Springbok Drinking by Francisco Hernandez — Springbok drinking by Francisco Hernandez

Next to the waterhole, there was a big tree under which hundreds of springboks spent hours resting and ruminating in the shade. On the same tree, I even saw a steppe eagle, a black-chested snake eagle and a pied crow.

There are many reasons why Okaukuejo is a special place to draw wildlife. Firstly, the wildlife comes almost continuously to the waterhole to drink, and there is a large open vista without any vegetation, which means that you can continually observe the movements of hundreds of animals easily. In addition, as there are so many pairs of watchful eyes keeping a lookout in the vicinity, the waterhole is not the best hunting ground for predators, which makes the animals feel safe and calm.

There are many places to observe and draw comfortably while sitting on wooden benches under the shade of trees or from a high, sheltered observatory. A roof is an important component for those planning to draw for several hours. The campsite is close enough to the waterhole that one can easily walk there in a few minutes.

For most of the day, visitors prefer to leave the campsite and waterhole on game drives through the park, which means that one can be completely absorbed in art creation with few distractions. I have to say this was one of the best natural drawing studios I have ever had the pleasure to spend time at.

Guineafowl in Etosha — Guineafowl drinking in Etosha by Francisco Hernandez

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Gallery: Samburu Tribe

Photographer Daniel Schuhmacher recently visited the Samburu National Reserve in Kenya, where he had the opportunity to spend time with a local Samburu tribe and enjoy the incredible wildlife safaris that the region has to offer.

A local guide took Daniel to a Samburu village, where he was welcomed by the tribe, which showed him around the village in exchange for a bit of money. The local guide explained that any money earned from tourism is then shared with the rest of the village, and a big part goes towards children’s education.

The Samburu people are related to the Maasai and share a few traditions, but they inhabit Kenya’s north-central plains, whereas the Maasai are concentrated in the region surrounding the Maasai Mara. Both tribes are thought to have come from Sudan in the 15th century, but they parted ways when the Samburu settled just north of the equator in Kenya’s Rift Valley area while their Maasai relatives moved further south. The Samburu language is similar to the Maa language spoken by the Maasai, and both tribes are semi-nomadic pastoralists who value cattle. However, the Samburu are thought to adhere more to cultural traditions than their Maasai kin, as their more remote location means they are slightly less affected by modern trends.
The village members that Daniel visited showed him their houses and animals and demonstrated their traditional dances, which are a significant part of the Samburu way of life. While Daniel was in the Samburu village, he was given permission to take a few pictures – the results of which he put together in this photography series.
Cover image by ©Daniel Schuhmacher

Upon Daniel’s arrival, he received a warm welcome from the Samburu men in front of their village, and this photo symbolises his introduction to the different way of life of this brightly attired tribe.

This photo is of the tribal leader, who was happy to pose for this great portrait.

The Samburu and Maasai tribes are known for their beautifully beaded jewellery, and both men and women adorn themselves with earrings, bracelets, anklets and necklaces. The number of beads or necklaces that a woman wears is said to be indicative of her beauty, wealth and status.
This photo shows an older woman selling some of her handiwork to tourists to earn money to support her community. Traditionally, the Samburu people depended on their cattle to survive, but the impacts of drought on livestock numbers have meant that the tribe, like their Maasai cousins, has become more involved in the tourism sector.

The Samburu warriors jump very high when they dance to show their strength. While they do this, the tribe’s women sing and dance in the background to support the warriors’ efforts.

The houses of the Samburu tribe are built from materials that can be sourced locally, such as sticks, mud and cow dung. They also tend to use bits of plastic – collected from waste products – to offer additional protection from the rain.
The manyattas (settlements) cater to the Samburu people’s polygamous system of marriage, and each manyatta is home to about four or five families, with each wife having her own house. Acacia thorn bushes then protect the manyatta to protect the families and their cattle from any roaming predators.

During his visit to the tribal village, the community showed Daniel how they live. This man took him inside his house so that he could see what it looked like on the inside – it had a bed, a kitchen and a small goat.

The Samburu tribe has a patriarchal system wherein the elders decide how many wives a man can have. Generally speaking, the women take care of collecting food and firewood, cooking, child-rearing and craftsmanship, while men are responsible for cattle herding and security

Some of the men showcased their survival skills with regard to making a fire from scratch.

During his visit, Daniel found that many of the young warriors enjoyed posing in front of the camera, which was great for him as a photographer.

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ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHER

Daniel Schuhmacher is a self-taught photographer from Germany who has a love for nature and animals and an infinite passion for taking pictures. In his travels, he finds himself always hunting for the best light, and he makes it his goal to photograph the places, the people and the things that he loves the most.

Walking with the Maasai

It was July 2014, and I was in Kenya’s Mara North Conservancy having a cup of tea and a homemade scone (yes, really!) with the manager of one of the Maasai Mara. We chatted about hiking, and he told me how, just that morning, he’d walked for miles through the conservancy. This was a revelation for me.

My experiences of bushwalks in much of East Africa were generally confined to very brief strolls close to the safety of the camp. And now here I was, being told it was entirely possible to hike for hours, or even days, across these wildlife-filled savannahs.

That evening, I casually mentioned the conversation to my wife and to my surprise, she suggested that I return to the Mara area one day to “spend a while walking and staying in Maasai villages and then write a book about it.” It was at that moment that the idea of the Walking with the Maasai project was born to gain a deeper understanding of contemporary Maasai life and the impact of 21st-century trends, conservation, political pressures and tourism on them.

Stuart Butler and his Maasai companion, Josphat Mako, walk through the region that is famed for its great migration ©Stuart Price — Stuart Butler and his Maasai companion, Josphat Mako, walk through the region that is famed for its great migration of wildebeest and zebra ©Stuart Price

In May 2015, a year after my tea and scones conversation, I set off on a five-week walk across a part of Kenya’s Maasai lands with Josphat Mako, a Maasai friend who worked as a guide in the Mara. Our walk began at the highest point of the Lebtero Hills, which are a densely forested, remote and very traditional corner of Maasailand. From here, we walked westwards along the Kenya-Tanzania border to the edge of the famous Maasai Mara National Reserve. We hadn’t been able to get permission to walk through the reserve itself, so when we reached the edge of the reserve, we veered north and walked through community land until we got to the hot springs at Maji Moto. Here, we turned south-west, then walked clean across the renowned Olarro, Naboisho, Olare Motorogi, Mara North and the Lemek wildlife conservancies, which are essentially private game reserves that together constitute some of the finest wildlife habitats in East Africa. Our walk eventually ended on the banks of the Mara River at the foot of the Oloololo Escarpment.

takig-photos-maasai-stuart-price-make-it-kenya — Keeping a close eye on their surroundings using different devices ©Stuart Price, Make It Kenya

sunset-silhouette-walking-maasai-stuart-price-make-it-kenya — Sunset in the Mara eco-system ©Stuart Price, Make It Kenya

Enjoying the journey

The point of this project was not so much the walk itself – especially as I don’t know how far we even walked – but rather the opportunity it presented for me to get to know the Maasai people and their culture, as well as the landscapes and animals that they live with. Before I set off on the walk, I vowed not to be tied to walking a certain amount of kilometres a day or sticking religiously to a predetermined route. I wanted to be able to deviate from a path as and when I felt like it to take in as many interesting encounters as possible.

Along the way, we visited and slept in numerous Maasai villages and spent as much time as possible with the Maasai, interviewing them and learning what we could of their traditional culture and their contemporary lifestyles. But it wasn’t all about the Maasai. By walking at a leisurely pace, I hoped also to understand something about the landscapes and wildlife of the region. On the nights when we weren’t guests of the Maasai, we had the excitement of camping in the bush with the animals or, once we were inside the Maasai Mara conservancies, where bush camping is banned. There were no villages to stay in; we stayed as guests at some of the safari camps, which gave me the chance to talk conservation and tourism with camp managers, guides, staff and field workers, and to visit some of their community projects.

maasai-women-mirror-stuart-butler — Reflections of the Maasai ©Stuart Butler

sunset-walking-maasailand-stuart-price-make-it-kenya — Walking in the renowned golden light of the region ©Stuart Price, Make It Kenya

maasai-jewellery — Beaded jewellery worn by the Maasai ©Stuart Butler

A rapidly changing culture

Over the weeks, I interviewed dozens of people, and I always tried to keep my interviewees as broad in interest and conflicting in views as possible. If one day I interviewed a traditional Maasai healer, then the next I spoke to a Maasai doctor working in a clinic. If one afternoon, I sat in the shade of a tree chatting with a hunter then the following day, I would meet someone working in the field of conservation. We met religious leaders, warriors, biologists, activists, scientists, artists, politicians, vision seekers, TV personalities, tourist industry representatives, shepherds, housewives and many others. I spoke to elderly Maasai about days past, and I listened, spellbound, as they recounted tales of cattle rustling and hunting lion and ostrich with spears to prove their manhood. However, I also spoke to an equal number of young Maasai – the ‘Digital Maasai’ as the elders called them – for whom stories of the old ways were as exotic-sounding as they were for me.

If one thing became clear through all of these conversations, it was that Maasai culture was in the process of rapid change and that if I had wanted to catch the last of the old lifestyles, then I was probably ten years too late. Even the famous Maasai moran (warriors) were now almost a relic of a bygone age, and most of those long flowing locks of hair are now made of string, while the lion mane headdresses tend to be hand-me-downs from fathers and grandfathers. In fact, in the whole course of our walk, we only encountered three or four genuine Maasai moran, and Josphat and Patrick, another Maasai friend I was walking with at the time, were so excited at meeting ‘real’ moran that they asked if they could take pictures of them on their camera phones. The moran declined!

For me, this clash of globalisation and its impact on Maasai culture was one of the most fascinating aspects of the walk. Still, of course, nobody can walk across the Maasai lands without wildlife featuring strongly.

maasai-cattle-holding-hands-stuart-butler — Two cultures go hand-in-hand ©Stuart Butler

maasai-lion-mane-headdress-stuart-butler — A traditional lion mane headdress ©Stuart Butler

maasai-motorbike-stuart-butler — A modern means of movement ©Stuart Butler

Local Encounters

Sometimes, these wildlife encounters were simply fantastic. Walking for hours over the savannah as huge herds of zebra and wildebeest parted for us as we strolled by was undoubtedly a highlight. Walking also allowed us to see all the little creatures we’d have missed in a vehicle – the ants and tortoises, the butterflies and lizards. Other encounters were less heart-warming, though. Meeting the Maasai family who’d lost their three-year-old son to a leopard attack was the clearest such example. There were also the numerous families I spoke with who seemed caught in a never-ending cycle of conflict with hyenas, lions or leopards raiding their cattle bomas at night and elephants destroying their crops.

The issue of human-elephant conflict is an important one to consider ©Stuart Butler — Human-elephant conflict is a very real issue for the Maasai people ©Stuart Butler

Over the weeks that we walked, we met dozens of conservationists, scientists and concerned individuals working hard to protect what’s left of Kenya’s wildlife heritage. That they’re doing a sterling job is undoubted. On my many previous visits to the Mara region, I’ve seen the landscapes and wildlife through the prism of a safari vehicle and through the eyes of whichever expert wildlife guide was with me at the time. After driving around the conservancies and the Maasai Mara National Reserve, I had always been left with the impression that these vast spaces were home to healthy wildlife populations.

On the other hand, walking through those same areas opened my eyes to another reality. Protected areas that I had once imagined to be nearly endless suddenly appeared very small when I realised I could walk clean across a conservancy in a day. Human interference, though a part of the environment ever since man’s earliest ancestors first swung out of the trees, was undeniably intense and had an increasingly severe impact. All around the edges of the protected zones, land is being demarcated, fences are going up, development is taking place, wildlife migration routes are being disrupted, human-wildlife conflict is increasing and, close to the Maasai Mara National Reserve itself, resentment against the reserve and conservation is substantial.

maasai-giraffe-stuart-butler — The spots of Maasai giraffe – one of three subspecies of giraffe in Kenya ©Stuart Butler

walking-maasai-gazelle-stuart-price-make-it-kenya — Walking in harmony with nature ©Stuart Price, Make It Kenya

hyena-maasailand-stuart-butler — An unperturbed hyena passes by ©Stuart Butler

The importance of conservancies

However, in and around the conservancies, where local communities are more involved and gain more benefits from safari tourism and conservation, the attitude is generally more positive.

It’s no secret that populations of some species are crashing, and I knew all this before I set out on the walk. However, although I didn’t plan on any daring encounters with potentially dangerous animals, both Josphat and I had expected that we would bump into big cats, buffalos and elephants by walking so many kilometres over these grasslands – whether we liked it or not. But as the Mara River and the end of our walk came into view, I was struck by the overwhelming realisation that we had walked so far but had only encountered on foot one elephant, a handful of buffalo and not a single, solitary cat. When we mentioned this to older Maasai, the reaction was always the same – they shook their heads and told us how when they were younger, they would encounter these animals on an almost daily basis as they walked with their cattle. They invariably told us that they had seen the number of animals falling over the years, but then, without fail, they always expressed surprise and dismay that after five weeks, we had not seen a single lion as we walked.

If one thing became clear from our walk, it was that there were many very concerned people, Maasai and others, working to preserve Kenya’s wild places and wildlife. It was apparent to me that the conservancies could only be a good thing, but it was also clear that right now, they are simply not large enough. If we want to save the wildlife of the Mara ecosystem, then the conservancies need to grow and multiply, and they need to do so quickly, or there will be nothing much left to protect.

Stuart and Joseph come across a lone elephant bull ©Stuart Price, Make It Kenya — Stuart and Joseph come across a lone elephant bull on their journey ©Stuart Price, Make It Kenya

walking-with-maasai-stuart-butler — A Maasai wears a traditional red shuka, and the colour is believed to scare off lions ©Stuart Butler

maasailand-stuart-butler — Surveying the vast lands surrounding the national reserve ©Stuart Butler

giraffe-silhouette-stuart-butler — Silhouettes at sunset ©Stuart Butler

maasai-stuart-butler — Conservancies are the way forward to help the Maasai communities and the wildlife ©Stuart Butler

Find out about KENYA for your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

About the author

Stuart is a writer, photographer and the author of the Lonely Planet Kenya guidebook, as well as numerous other Africa and Asia titles for Lonely Planet, Rough Guides and Bradt.

Once We Were Lions, a book about this walk, the Maasai, wildlife and conservation, will be published in late 2016. At the same time, a travelling photographic exhibition and a series of speaking dates by Stuart and Josphat will take place.

Diving with potato bass

Potato bass are probably the most curious fish of all. While scuba diving on reefs on the east coast of South Africa and Mozambique, you are almost guaranteed a close encounter with this massive fish, which commonly grows up to 1.5m in length – making them one of the largest of all the coral reef predators in the region.

Also known as potato groupers, they are generally harmless and quite friendly towards scuba divers. Many times, you will find yourself literally face-to-face with one of them. They tend to approach divers and hang around the group, enjoying all the attention. As an underwater photographer, you cannot ask for a more amenable subject as they will provide you with all the angles and poses you need for a full shoot.

The situation may, however, get slightly nerve-wracking when you stop paying attention to them, as potato bass can get jealous and start bothering you by trying to nibble on any loose pieces of equipment hanging from your dive gear! Groupers don’t have big sharp-edged teeth but do have rows of small needle-like teeth, so anything that comes into their enormous mouth does not get out, so caution is advised. While this is an extreme situation, in most cases, you will find them amazing companions that may stay with you during the whole dive, providing great photos and broad smiles all around after the dive.

Potato bass are territorial, and often there are one or two individuals that frequent the same dive site on a reef

Potato bass facts:

– They are one of the largest predators on a coral reef

– They primarily hunt at night

– Inside their massive mouth are rows of tiny pointy teeth, which hold prey inside

– Prey is swallowed whole

– They can change the shade of their skin to reflect their mood

– They are very inquisitive fish, particularly towards scuba divers

Watch the below video on potato bass, part of my Creatures of the Sea series:

Video: 60 hyenas take on a lion

Guests on one of our Maasai Mara safaris were lucky enough to witness the legendary Musiara Marsh Pride of lions take on a large clan of hyenas that were determined to rob them of a recent Cape buffalo kill.

The overnight hunt was an exhausting affair for the lions, with the powerful buffalo seeking refuge in deep pools on several occasions, before eventually succumbing to the determined and experienced lions. The lions feasted well, and in the morning all had bellies full to bursting. Many of the pride members moved away from the buffalo carcass to drink and rest. That’s when the clean-up crew of jackals, hyenas and vultures moved in to pick the carcass clean.

The few lions that remained at the carcass were soon outnumbered, as 60 hyenas (not all can be seen in the video) gathered and ripped the carcass to shreds, consuming all remaining meat.

The brazen and confident hyenas set off in pursuit of one lion and her cubs at one stage, but full bellies and the return of a few more lions halted that charge. During the melee, Siena (a lioness famous for killing hyenas) made a comeback attempt, giving a few retreating hyenas a fright as she bowled them over. In the end, though, full bellies won the day and each protagonist retreated to safety.

Find out about KENYA for your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

Wounded elephant limps to a local lodge for help

On Saturday morning, staff at a Bumi Hills lodge in Zimbabwe were surprised to discover that an elephant bull had arrived outside one of the staff houses with a severe limp. Upon closer inspection, they suspected that the wounded elephant had been the victim of a failed poaching attempt. He had two bullet holes through his left ear and a septic wound on his left shoulder.

elephant-at-Bumi-Lodge — ©Bumi Hills via Facebook

Estimated to be at least 30 years old, the bull had made his way up the steep escarpment to the lodge during the night despite the painful-looking wound on his shoulder. The wounded elephant was clearly quite dehydrated as he readily drank the three buckets of water we gave him and had not moved away from the house for nearly five hours. Perhaps the elephant knew that we could help.

Staff quickly arranged for a wildlife vet to fly in to the lodge that afternoon, dart him and give him the necessary life-saving treatment. Six hours later, when the vet arrived, the elephant hadn’t moved further than a few metres.

Seeing his wounds, Dr. Richard Hoare quickly went to work preparing to dart and treat the animal.

vet-preparing-dart — Dr. Richard Hoare preparing the dart. ©Bumi Hills via Facebook

elephant-darting — Perfect shot and waiting for the drugs to take effect. You can see the staff housing in the background, showing how close this elephant had stayed all day. ©Bumi Hills via Facebook

The dart went into his rear rump perfectly, and he only moved off a short distance in the seven minutes before he went down. He also landed perfectly on his haunches with his right side up a slope, the perfect position considering we needed to work on his left side.

Once darted, the whole treatment took a little over an hour, in which the vet and workers managed to clean and disinfect his wound, check for any remnants of a bullet and administer antibiotics to the wounded elephant.

pushing-over-sedated-elephant — It took 12 men to pull and push him over! ©Bumi Hills via Facebook

Metal-detector-on-elephant — Using a metal detector to try and locate the bullet head or fragments. ©Bumi Hills via Facebook

The nature and cause of the wound has left everyone puzzled. It is a large entry hole, approximately 4cm in diameter, perfectly round and smooth and extends approximately 10cm downwards into his shoulder joint, and there are no other wounds visible on the animal at all. The wound was approximately a month old, but again, this is difficult to tell exactly.

The nature of the wound suggests that if caused by a bullet, it was fired from an elevated position down onto the animal, not a commonly used method of shooting an animal, but with our rugged terrain, it is quite possible. We will arrange for a mobile X-ray unit to be brought in if he requires follow-up treatment, which will hopefully give us a better idea of what happened.

bullet-holes-in-elephants-ear — The 2 bullet holes in his right ear that were seen before the darting are definitely old and have healed completely, suggesting this poor elephant had been fired at before this incident. ©Bumi Hills via Facebook

Cleaning-elephant-wound — Cleaning the wound out with a probe. ©Bumi Hills via Facebook

Once the operation was completed and the drugs had worn off, he was back up on his feet within five minutes before rushing off into some thick cover.

elephant-getting-up — A few minutes later, he was trying to get up. ©Bumi Hills via Facebook

The team also fitted Ben, named after the staff member who found him, with a VHF tracking collar so that we can monitor him closely over the next two weeks when we will dart him again to carry out a follow-up check and hopefully remove his collar.

standing-elephant — A shake of the head before he wandered off into the bush. ©Bumi Hills via Facebook

We are still unsure of the extent of the internal damage this animal has sustained at this stage but, having treated the wound, we have hopefully minimised the risk of serious infection and got him out of immediate danger. It is incredibly humbling how everyone just pulls together when an animal needs urgent medical attention, and we are extremely grateful to all those who helped out.

Yesterday, the elephant spent most of the morning in fairly open bush,veld and the photo below was taken of him, albeit at long range.

Elephant-spotted-from-afar — ©Bumi Hills via Facebook

When the above photo was taken, the wounded elephant was not limping as badly, and the wound seemed to be healing well externally. His condition remains good, and he is feeding normally. These are all positive signs; however, there is still a very long road ahead for this elephant, considering we still do not know the extent of the internal injuries he may have, but we will be keeping a close eye on him to determine if any further treatment is needed.

From data collected in aerial surveys carried out over Zimbabwe in 2001 and again in 2013, there has been an estimated decrease in elephant numbers of 75% in the Sebungwe area, which basically stretches the length of Lake Kariba and includes inland areas such as Matusadona and Chizarira National Parks. These worrying statistics have resulted in the formation of the Bumi Hills Foundation in March 2016. The foundation will focus predominantly on community development initiatives within the local community, including healthcare, education and economic empowerment, while continuing to carry out vital conservation work through the newly incorporated BHAPU.

UPDATE 23 June 2016:

Based on the improvement in his condition and mobility over the past two weeks and the state of the wound now, the overall prognosis is that Ben has an extremely good chance of fully recovering, albeit over a couple of months.

Trophy hunting – a compromise?

As an individual who abhors the notion of a trophy hunt, the Cecil the Lion debacle prompted me to interview various conservation scientists and practitioners, ecotourism professionals, hunting associations and more to understand the real issues behind the enormous amount of social media hype. The article that I wrote based on my findings was published here. Written by: Ian Vorster

leopard-in-tree — A leopard, as most wildlife lovers prefer to see them ©Ian Vorster

The first person I made contact with was Dereck Joubert, who operates high-end ecotourism camps in Botswana’s Okavango Delta. He is currently writing a book that digs deep into the ‘pro-hunting model’, and had this to say, “The more I scratch, the more disappointed I become in my quest to find one good example of where hunting actually works well.”

Dereck believes that hunting is an archaic management method at best, one that actually doesn’t manage anything. He asserts: “It is a selfish and incredibly brutal activity that is designed to simply serve the killer. We also need to understand the claimed amount of how much actually gets to the communities that are reported as benefactors. I can tell you this, however: if it were working well, after over 100 years of hunting-era management, the communities and wildlife would be in good shape. Instead, we are seeing massive declines in wildlife, and increased levels of poverty and corruption surrounding wildlife areas.”

Following that, I contacted Dr Michael Knight, the director of science for SANParks, and Chris Weaver, the conservation programme director for World Wildlife Fund’s Southern Africa programme.

What they had to say could be summarised in these three points:

1. The current trophy hunting model is corrupt;

2. All areas and all species cannot be regarded in the same way — for example, rhino habitat and management in Namibia differs from lion habitat and management in Tanzania;

3. And if the revenue stream from trophy hunting is taken away, it will only hasten the demise of wildlife because of human-animal conflict in remote areas – especially in areas in which the ecotourism lodge model does not work as well.

The third point seems to serve as a wrench in the wheel for anyone who might be opposed to the trophy hunt.

Dr Stuart Pimm is the Doris Duke Professor of Conservation Ecology and the division chief of the Environmental Science and Policy Division at Duke University. He notes the tension between the factions: “The issues with hunting wildlife are very complicated, and those in Africa especially so. There are those who think all hunting is unethical. There are those who think sustained hunting can do a lot of good.”

Pimm illustrates his point with the following example of two adjacent countries – Kenya bans all hunting, while Tanzania devotes far more of its land to hunting concessions than it does to protected areas. Namibia, like Tanzania, has a mix, and yet is a very different country ecologically and in terms of its per capita wealth.

“Some in Kenya feel that what it gains from tourism is its best land use. Tanzania has vast areas of very poor quality land for which hunting may be the best use. Hunters argue that without the money they bring in, these areas would likely be converted to other uses, and all wildlife, including those species that are hunted, would suffer.” Recent reports in Kenya say that the country is suffering a steep rate of loss of wildlife and habitat, which many attribute to its non-hunting policies. However, both Tanzania and Mozambique have suffered similar losses, and yet both countries have hunting.

So what is a possible solution if neither the current hunting model nor refraining from the trophy hunt works?

A caveat that has endured in this investigation seems to be that hunting needs to be done in a legal and sustainable way. This is especially a challenge for poor countries with limited resources, like Zimbabwe, where the government has been implicated in both rhino and elephant poaching.

Michael Knight explains: “The principle of getting the most return for a hunt is good – it increases the value of wildlife. In many cases, authorities are actually under-charging, and without good governance, the system is open to corruption.” Dr Knight supported the black rhino hunt in Namibia, partly because 100 percent of the funds went directly to support a small community and further conservation efforts and because the rhino was an old male who could no longer breed.

Regarding revenue, lion researcher Dr Craig Packer notes that a prime trophy lion costs about a million dollars to protect through its life, so US$50,000 for Cecil was minuscule. He suggests that the prices should be raised significantly and that the hunting culture should be changed so that, for example, 20 hunters each pay US$50,000 for a lottery tag to get the chance to shoot one six-year-old male. He emphasised that land is not being adequately maintained in most of Africa. “African sport hunting stands in stark contrast to what we see in the U.S., where operators really do help conserve habitat. Most African sport hunting operators are strip miners who gain access to the land through under-the-table deals and try to make a profit by promising 100 percent hunting success rates and minimising their investments in anti-poaching or community conservation, or anything else. There are a few exceptions, but only a few.”

In closing, I’d like to give Dereck Joubert the last word: “While this is a practical debate, it is also a philosophical one. In my opinion, one has to tackle the moral and ethical issues first, and the financial or economic ones only after that; otherwise, we will be making terrible decisions that take us down an ever more slippery slope in life. Some things in life make perfect economic sense, but we should never even consider them based on moral grounds – slavery would be a prime example.”

Whatever our personal opinions, it’s clear that trophy hunting remains a contentious debate. It seems to me that some compromise is needed if we hope to save what is left of our wildlife. We need to find a 21st-century way forward.

Build your own owl box!

Owls have captivated the human imagination for centuries, and few animals have so many different and contradictory beliefs about them. Owls have been both feared and venerated, despised and admired, considered wise and foolish, and associated with medicine and witchcraft. Having an owl box near your home may help you understand them better. Written by: Craig Glatthaar

In the mythology of ancient Greece, owls were honoured. Athene, the goddess of wisdom, adopted the little owl (Athene noctua) as her favourite feathered creature. However, in Roman mythology, the deaths of Julius Caesar and Commodus Aurelius were supposedly predicted by an owl. In English folklore, owl eggs cooked until they turned to ash were used as a potion to improve one’s eyesight. The Apache believed that dreaming of an owl signified approaching death, and in many African tribal beliefs, the presence of an owl on the roof means a death in the family is imminent. These days’ owls are rather revered, not for their symbolism, but for the very real reason that they keep rodent populations in check and they’re just amazingly well-adapted animals.

Despite all the myths and legends that surround these “wise” creatures, the reality of attracting owls to your garden is a wonderful way to marvel at these incredible hunters of the dark. Building an owl box is a great way to encourage them to your garden. Many owls use an artificial nest box – such as African wood owls, scops owls and pearl-spotted owlets. Barn owls and spotted eagle owls have learnt to live in close proximity to humans.

One of South Africa’s most common owl species is the spotted eagle-owl (Bubo africanus). They require a specific type of design for their owl box that is quite different from many of the other owls, but luckily, rather simple to build.

Spotted eagle owls are often hiding and resting during the day in rocky ledges or amongst the thick foliage of tall trees. For this reason, you will want to locate your box away from the hustle and bustle of your home. One doesn’t want to have to dodge a protective mother every time one goes in and out of your home. During the day, the owls will be relatively sedentary. However, nighttime is an altogether different story, where their acute vision, sensitive ears (within a large facial disk) and delicately designed quiet flying feathers turn them into the perfect nighttime assassins. They target all manner of prey, from insects to bats and even nightjars. One primary prey species is rodents, and here, attracting an owl to your home can serve a positive purpose… as opposed to being the bearer of all things evil.

Spotted eagle owls will mate for life, and they usually lay around two to three white eggs at intervals of between one to four days. The female incubates the eggs, while the male provides the food. Chicks hatch blind and begin to open their distinct yellow eyes after seven days. The young start leaving the nest and exploring at about four to six weeks and are normally flying by seven or eight weeks. The parents continue to care for the young for a further five or six weeks after they fledge. Their life cycles remind us of the small part we play on the planet, and it’s a humbling experience to watch an owl family going through the trials and tribulations of life – a wonderful reason to build your own owl box!

The truth about volunteering with lions

I had been an animal lover – more specifically, a cat lover – since I was little. So, when I finished school, it seemed only logical to sign up for an animal-focused volunteering trip – especially volunteering with lions. Written by Lucy Stewart

I found Real Gap, a company centred around sending students abroad. Amongst their top trips was the ‘Live with Lion Cubs’ experience at Ukutula – a fortnight in South Africa with hands-on experience helping to rehabilitate lions, all in the name of conservation. The two-week volunteering with lions experience cost £1,118 (ZAR25,689 at the time), excluding flights, but it seemed like such a good cause that I didn’t mind putting all my savings towards it.

Before the trip, I was not at all clued up about the canned hunting business. I knew all about poachers and trophy hunting, but that didn’t strike me as being related to what I was about to do. I posted a tweet expressing my excitement about the trip and received a message from a girl urging me to avoid Ukutula and that the reserve was affiliated with canned hunting. I was distraught but managed to convince myself that it was an online troll. The idea played on my mind, however, and I sent a message to a representative at Real Gap querying the reserve, but their response was just what I needed to ease my mind – they were disgusted at the very idea of canned hunting and assured me that the trip was solely for the sake of conservation.

On arriving at the reserve in July 2014, I was more excited than ever. The reserve itself was beautiful, located in Brits, just outside of Johannesburg. We were shown to our room, which was in the ‘Devils’ enclosure – a small hut surrounded by 26 three to six-month-old lion cubs.

There were eight volunteers in my group, who had all booked through the same company, along with another 25 volunteers, some of whom had been to Ukutula before. On the reserve at the time were four young cubs, which we cared for on cub duty. The environment seemed welcoming enough, but the staff were sometimes incredibly rude, and any questions regarding the animals were dismissed and scorned. For volunteers with no experience, to be treated like this was a bit off-putting.

In our duties of cleaning enclosures, however, I began to feel slightly uneasy. The female cheetah’s enclosure was small and overgrown, and she was alone in there for 24 hours a day. This did not make sense to me as the reserve was supposedly based on white lion conservation, so why was the cheetah there? The same situation applied to two tigers, which were fully grown and pacing back and forth in their enclosure. We were told that the tigers were mistreated when they were younger and would not survive in the wild alone. There were also two hyenas, which belonged to the owner’s son, who was one of the rangers there. These hyenas were treated like pets, but whenever we cleared their small and sparse enclosure, they would run the entire length of the enclosure back and forth in a straight line, looking utterly demented. It was heartbreaking, but the rangers assured us that this was their natural behaviour and that they were ‘fairly stupid creatures’ anyway.

One of the workers on the reserve, a chef in the kitchen, had two pet caracals, which were kept in a small and unnatural enclosure. He assured us that they were small enough animals for this; he told us they “had all the space they need – they wouldn’t need any more.”

We were also shown two newborn cheetah cubs, which were kept alone in a tiny enclosure. We were not told very much about these two cubs and were not allowed to enter their enclosure – only pet them through the bars. This was something else we found strange, but when asked, the rangers were extremely vague and never quite answered our questions about where the cubs came from or what would happen to them.

The volunteers were to take on cub duty for a large part of their stay, and this involved feeding, bathing and stimulating the four young lion cubs of about two months old to pass urine and faeces. These cubs were available for guests who would come in to play with the animals. There were roughly two or three tours a day of about a dozen or so members of the public, including some very young children. They would stay in the enclosure for about 20 minutes, passing the cubs around and posing for photographs. Any questions from the public were answered with the same scripted speeches – about conservation and how it was beneficial for cubs to interact with humans. However, the cub petting experience did not seem to be for any other reason than novelty and enjoyment.

Cub duty was basically carrying out the jobs which the mother usually does, as the cubs were so young they could not yet look after themselves. We were required to prepare the milk formula and feed the young cubs. Bathing them involved gently dunking them into a tub of warm water and soap and scrubbing the lower half of their body before drying them off. The cubs did not enjoy this one bit, and we were scratched to bits.

When we arrived at the reserve, there was a five-day-old cub that still had his eyes closed and was unable even to walk yet. We were given the surreal opportunity to care for this cub while posing for photos and passing this tiny creature around like a toy. He was not available for the cub petting with the paying members of the public, but towards the end of my time at Ukutula, the owner started to show him off to the public. At night, he was kept indoors with the owners, but if requested, any of the volunteers were able to have him stay in their room overnight.

The cub was taken from its mother and when we questioned this, we were assured that it was for his own good, and it was to be released into the wild when it grew up. Volunteers are often told that these cubs are orphans or in danger of being attacked or eaten by the other lions and can only be raised in this environment. Again, this is obviously false. At the end of my two-week stay, the little cub was moved into the other enclosure to interact with the four other young lion cubs there, and I assume this was the beginning of his ‘cub petting’ days.

Interacting so closely with a lion cub may seem like a very difficult thing to turn down. However, parks that offer ‘cub petting’ cannot be associated with promoting the welfare and conservation of lions. These cubs are passed around between volunteers and paying customers with no animal care experience until they are too big to cuddle, by which point they are so used to human interaction that they would not survive in the wild.

At Ukutula, after they grow out of cub petting, they are moved into the ‘Devils’ enclosure, where there are huts for volunteers to stay in so that they get to see lions right outside their window. These lions were around four to six months old and had to be fed from a distance. Rangers and volunteers would prepare the food, which involved studding what looked like fairly rotten chickens with a nutrient and calcium formula known as ‘Predator Powder’. These chickens were then thrown over the fence into the enclosure, and each lion would grab what it could. The volunteers were told never to get too close or go into the enclosure when the lions were feeding, as they would become aggressive.

When the lions reached around nine months to one-and-a-half years old, they were then moved into an area known as the ‘Gremlins’. There were around 30 ‘Gremlins’ in one enclosure, and there was more than one enclosure on the reserve – racking up quite a high number of lions in this age group. These enclosures were basic squares of dust, with a watering pool and some trees for shade – a fairly grim sight to look at, but the rangers ensured us it was temporary and they would be ‘soon released’.

These lions were trained to partake in ‘lion walks’ in which volunteers and paying customers are given waist-height wooden sticks to use as ‘warnings’ against the animals, should they get too close. We were told never to bend down below waist height, as the lions could pounce on us – but this seemed to be the only safety precaution. Throughout the walk, we stopped at various trees and areas where we could pose for photographs. The lions were coerced back and forth with bits of chicken in order to get a good shot and look at the camera. The rangers also used chicken and sticks to get the lions to climb up into the trees for the best photo opportunity. We were told this was natural behaviour.

When the lions have grown past the ‘lion walk’ stage and reached adulthood – at around three years old – the volunteers lose track of them. We are told they are released into the wild, which is laughable, come to think of it. These animals are so used to human contact, as it is all they have known, and would never survive in what should be their natural environment. The harsh reality is that these animals will be sold – perhaps to zoos, private owners, or canned hunting middlemen.

Looking back now, I feel the most anger towards the owners of the lodge. There was a meeting called between all of the volunteers and staff in our first couple of days, during which the owner told us how they had bought the reserve years ago and were breeding lions, and ‘much to their surprise and disgust’ were receiving requests regarding the hunting of their lions. They then told us how, unbeknown to them, they had bought into the canned hunting business, at which time they cut off all ties and turned the lodge into ‘Ukutula’ – meaning ‘place of quiet’, a peaceful place to promote breeding and conservation. The apparent ‘research’ being carried out on the reserve was not explained fully to the volunteers, but the general idea was conveyed that Ukutula was attempting to increase the number of white lions by breeding them on-site in a protected environment – away from poachers – and releasing them into the wild when old enough.

It was not until maybe a year after I returned home when a friend who had been in my group shared a post that everything changed, and I discovered the truth. I was utterly distraught. It had not only all been a sham, but I had been part of something that I had wanted to explicitly prevent – the hunting and unethical treatment of these beautiful creatures. I immediately wrote furious emails to Real Gap, Ukutula, and anyone who would listen, but I got very little response. I kept sending more and more messages to Real Gap, and a few months later, received another message from a friend saying the trip had been removed from the website.

Reading this, it may seem I was incredibly naïve, but at the time, these places offered incredibly convincing cover stories. I feel sick to my stomach at the thought of it, but can only use this negative experience in a positive way. Making people aware of these issues is so important, and I aim to do everything I can to ensure that this does not happen to any more volunteers looking to help.

Malena Persson, from Campaign Against Canned Hunting UK, concludes: “When I read about Lucy’s experiences, the full scale of the canned hunting operations hit me – these poor individuals are being harshly duped into repressing what little suspicions they have. They get entirely caught up in the long string of lies that they are being fed over and over. Ugly lies are hidden behind cuteness, as lion cubs are dangled in front of the volunteers to take their eyes and minds off their gut feeling that something is very, very wrong. Lion farms are clever; they bring up the horrors of canned hunting before anyone even asks about it, assuring their volunteers that they are indeed the good guys and that they would never have anything to do with that kind of appalling cruelty. Lion breeding facilities abuse the trust of genuinely goodhearted young people. Many volunteers go to South Africa because they want to help; they want to save lions. But instead, they end up supporting one of the biggest frauds of our time. And it is about time that everyone sees captive breeding of lions for what it is – it is the first step in the canned hunting chain; it is deception with a deadly end.”

Rhino rangers

When it comes to the fight against rhino poaching, there are simply too many heroes to mention. They take the form of guides, researchers, vets, rangers and volunteers, and each Rhino Tears wine, I was lucky to brush shoulders with some of these eco-warriors while they gave us a glimpse behind the scenes. I was introduced to the park’s canine unit and learned more about the various teams protecting our rhinos.

As the newly-appointed head of ranger services, Xolani Nicholus Funda has brought some fresh blood and a renewed fire to this dedicated team of more than 700 individuals. He has a sense of community and the bigger picture that not only demonstrates his vast wisdom and know-how but also his compassion for the real heart of this issue. After working as a ranger in his early years, Mr Funda went on to become a lecturer at the University of Tshwane under the Department of Nature Conservation, where he worked for seven years. Apart from his conservation experience, he holds a master’s degree in environmental management from the University of Free State.
A quote from the man in charge: “Poverty is a serious threat to conservation and natural resources, and if we don’t deal with that, we cannot combat the poaching issue.”

Brad Grafton is the new kid on the block regarding Kruger’s air services. Brad comes from a military background, and his skills bring an interesting perspective to the party – clearly indicating what Kruger’s rangers are up against. Despite a demanding schedule that sometimes sees him running four or five aerial missions a day, Brad always seemed to have a smile on his face. His sheer enjoyment and fascination for his job were evident when he took us up in his helicopter for a quick spin. This helicopter pilot loves life in the bushveld, and I can say that the views he gets to experience each day are worth fighting for.

Craig Williams is a relatively new addition to Kruger’s team of section rangers. He, unfortunately, had to take over a messy wake after his former section ranger at Lower Sabie was arrested, along with two others, for rhino poaching – evidence of just how tempting this illicit trade is. But Craig is definitely up for the job – he comes from Mountain Zebra National Park, where he picked up a Frontier Shield award for bravery for his quick thinking in June 2012 when he managed to save his colleagues from a charging black rhino. Dog Badger at his side is a unique bluetick, and while he may look like the ultimate sweetheart with that lolling tongue and loveable demeanour, Badger is a lean, mean tracking machine.
For Craig, working in the Kruger with Badger at his side has always been a dream, and in his words, “It is a privilege and honour to do what we do.”

A feminine face in a man’s world – but no less hardcore. It was clear from the outset that Tebogo is deeply passionate, committed and humble. As an outsider looking on, you could see she was eager to learn, but she also easily held her own and demanded respect from a team of manly green. She was the right-hand woman to head vet Markus Hofmeyr, and she diligently went about her work with the utmost grace, taking blood samples and doing the necessary checks on the rhino that we darted. The guys expect big things from her, and I have no doubt she will live up to the challenge.

Jaco was one of our guides for our Kruger trip, and I think it’s safe to say that his keen sense of humour is matched only by his vast bush knowledge. I can attest firsthand that if an elephant ever charges you, Jaco is the man you want out in front of you. As a Level 3 trails guide, trainer and assessor, Jaco also has experience in safari management services and the management of private lodges, and he was recently selected as one of the top six in the Safari Guide of the Year 2016 competition. His utter dedication to his job extends above and beyond the call of duty, and he has even started his own campaign, challenging Kruger fans to get involved in the fight to save our rhinos by sponsoring a dog for the park’s canine unit. A quote from Jaco: “I believe that as South Africans, we can be better, we can affect change positively, and we can channel our energies positively.”

Dr Markus Hofmeyr is the head of SANParks Veterinary Wildlife Services – a job he takes very seriously. He has a rich background in veterinary work and played a part in setting up the gorgeous Madikwe Game Reserve. While his job may sound like a dream come true, with great things comes great responsibility – he holds the life of the park’s wildlife in his hands. His work includes rhino translocations, establishing new techniques and best practices, monitoring of animal populations in the Kruger-Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area and operational management. His eternal optimism must see him through each day as he no doubt witnesses the worst of the worst.
In the words of the brave Markus Hofmeyr: “We are not at the point of no return (and) can still see a turnaround in South Africa.”

The serious and dependable Frik Rossouw cuts to the chase, and, as the senior investigator at the Environmental Crime Investigations unit in Kruger, one can see where his firm hand comes from. The unit he runs is responsible for analysing rhino poaching crime scenes, forensics, evidence interpretation, investigations (both reactive and pro-active) and cross-border liaisons. He works with dedicated prosecutors, and he and his team have been responsible for some serious arrests, particularly in recent months. His role is to make sure that poachers don’t do it again or never get a chance in the first place. And he had me quivering in my boots!
A message from Frik: “Our strategy and commitment are beginning to bear fruit; the poachers are increasingly becoming unsuccessful.”

Standing next to Patrick while his colleagues rallied around the darted rhino, taking samples and measurements, was like standing in the eye of the storm. As one of the first on the scene, his job was to make sure the rhino was safe and secure and that her movements were limited – ensuring the safety of the vets that crowded around her. As the hustle and bustle ensued all around him, Patrick stood firm in his duty. He demurely smiled at the camera, blushing at being the centre of attention while keeping a trained, watchful eye on the rhino and the scene behind him. That rhino had 100% of his focus, and I have no doubt she was safe in his hands.

John Hooper of Klapmunts-based wine cellar Mt Vernon Wines may be a businessman and winemaker, but his passion for rhinos hits all the right notes. The idea for Rhino Tears – a wine that could raise money for anti-poaching efforts – was borne around a dinner table in Hoedspruit when John decided that he could marry his love for wine with his passion for the bushveld. From every bottle of his Rhino Tears wine – be it the chenin, red blend, or rose – ZAR15 goes directly to the SANParks Honorary Rangers and helps in the fight for our rhinos. And in its first year and a half, John has already raised more than ZAR700,000 for the cause. A quote from John: “The anti-poaching war is expensive, and the men and women involved need all the help they can get against a ruthless enemy.”

The legendary John Turner chairs the SANParks Honorary Rangers Counter-Poaching and Ranger Support Services National Project. John’s primary concern is to raise funds to support the anti-poaching units with the necessary equipment through the Honorary Rangers. All monies raised by the Honorary Rangers go directly to the cause and are not redirected into admin fees or hidden costs – a responsibility John takes very seriously and a feather he can wear in his hat with pride.
Some of his most successful fundraising initiatives include sunset serenades at Letaba and Mopani and the introduction of annual Mokhohlolo camps in which lucky visitors are given a glimpse into the behind-the-scenes efforts of the rangers. It was at one of these camps that I was introduced to John and where I came to see him as the father figure who considers each of the rangers as his children – with everyone finding a special place in his big heart.

My favourite ranger of all, a bloodhound-doberman cross and a relatively new addition to the team, stands next to his accomplished handler. Responsible for eight poacher arrests in just three weeks, the dog pictured here is born to track and is so good at his job that he can follow the scent of a poacher for 20 kilometres. His badass handler is beside him every gruelling step of the way, keeping control while putting his life on the line. His handler’s face cannot be shown due to the potential for threats to his life and family.

Never have I met a man more dedicated to his position than Neels van Wyk. You can see that his title as Crocodile Bridge section ranger is so much more than a job to him. He commands respect, and he deserves it. Despite taking the lead in what can only be a heavily taxing role, Neels still had the time to sit down with us and explain the trials and tribulations of his day job. This turns out not to be a day job at all but instead, an around-the-clock passion that sees him on his toes chasing poachers, relocating big cats, managing a team of rangers in an intensive poaching zone, and calmly trying to explain the needs of the park to pestering journalists – all at the same time.

This gallery was compiled by teamAG member Janine Avery. Janine met the inspiring men and women featured here while staying at Mokhohlolo camp. The SANParks Honorary Rangers organised her stay to give Kruger lovers a look behind the scenes at their favourite park while contributing financially to the cause.
The stay involved bush walks alongside passionate field guides in the lesser-explored areas of Kruger National Park, an exploration into the sides of the park not normally open to the public, and the opportunity to observe the hard work done every day by the rangers and vets you have met in the last few slides. The camp lets like-minded people come together to discuss the issues facing the park, and it often results in pledges being made for specific projects – especially after a refreshing drink or two around the communal campfire.
The non-permanent Mokhohlolo camp is booked out as a group and accommodates 20 guests. Enquiries can be made by emailing John Turner. The trip was sponsored by Rhino Tears Wines, which donates proceeds from every bottle sold to rhino anti-poaching efforts. Learn more about the great work this wine is doing to save rhinos on their Facebook page.

Antelope hybrid in the wilds of northern Botswana

‘Antelope hybrid!’ is hardly the usual cry during a game drive. And yet, on a recent safari, we got a little more than expected when it came to tallying up the number of species encountered – a strange-looking and beautiful cross between two antelope species. Written by: Grant Nel

Whilst trundling slowly along the Selinda Spillway in northern Botswana, soaking up a landscape that has benefitted from some excellent rains at the back end of the wet season, we bumped into a large antelope standing in the middle of the track. My first instinct was expressed as, “Wow, what a beautiful waterbuck,” but our guide had a little smirk on his face as this guide, with 30 years’ experience, started to flounder and mumble over his identification!

“It’s a hybrid,” he whispered to me.

“Huh? In the wild?” was my rather understated expression of astonishment.

Hybrid-waterbuck-red-lechwe — A waterbuck x red lechwe hybrid ©Grant Nel

What paraded in front of us in the golden sunshine of late afternoon was a mature bull hybrid between a waterbuck (Kobus ellipsiprymnus) and red lechwe (Kobus leche)! The sun glistened off a shiny coat that displayed just about every colour to be found on an African antelope – I have seldom seen such a handsome-looking beast.

Red lechwe waterbuck hybrid — ©Grant Nel

How is this possible, you may ask? Well, antelope hybrids are well documented in captivity, and this is not the first Kobus species hybridisation on record, but what makes this so unusual is that it is a wild hybrid. Almost all other crosses of bovid species occur in captivity or in areas where closely related species are cohabiting in a confined environment.

One could speculate as to what events led up to an amorous coupling of the two species, but what must surely have occurred is a natural replication of the type of confinement that has produced other hybrids. It is not uncommon to see a lone, territorial male waterbuck in the company of other antelope, including lechwe.

Perhaps, with the rise in water levels along the Kwando, Linyanti and Selinda water bodies from 2005-2013, such an isolation occurred. Is it capable of reproducing? Like many hybrids, probably not, and without a comprehensive physiological study of the individual, we cannot be sure. Other antelope hybrids, such as addax and oryx, have proven to be reproductively viable, so are we witnessing punctuated evolution in progress?

a-waterbuck-red-lechwe-hybrid-waterbuck-dominance — A waterbuck and the hybrid stand-off ©Grant Nel

Our sighting was not yet over, however. From across the channel, a ‘thoroughbred’ waterbuck approached. Like two gunslingers from the Wild West, the bulls sized each other up and quite literally strutted their stuff. The dominant/submissive behaviour exhibited by both individuals was classic waterbuck, each identifying the other as a member of its race, with no discrimination. Wouldn’t it be nice if our own species would do the same?

On a related but different topic, here is an interesting article: The Black & White of African Wildlife Explained.

White water rafting Kenya’s Tana River

Kenya’s Tana River is murky with hot-chocolate-coloured waters, and at the time of the year I visited, the water was low – but that didn’t stop me from enjoying a spot of white water rafting.

Tana River African safari — ©Samuel Mwaturi

After the safety drills presented by Thomas, our guide, we hit the water and paddled according to his instructions, accompanied by the safety of guided kayaks.

Our first big rapid was ‘Captain’s Folly’. We followed Thomas’ instructions and easily cleared it. Next up was ‘Fish-Eye’.

“Since we’re the only boat on the river today,” Thomas said, “we can stop here and surf.”

Surf? I perked up. The word took me back to the last time I had ridden a wave on the shores of Dias Beach in the small town of Mossel Bay, South Africa. But I wasn’t really sure what Thomas meant as we hadn’t packed any surfboards.

We ran the rapid and landed straight in the eddy. Thomas paddled us to the bank where we disposed of our paddles. He then guided the raft directly into the thundering waters of the rapid. The boat locked in parallel to the crashing water, and lo and behold we were surfing.

We spent the next half hour surfing the rapid. Each time we got tossed out, sucked under and spat out. On the third attempt the boat went up on its rail and I fell in, getting sucked under.

Thinking I’d be spat out instantly, I became a little concerned when I realised that the surge of water was holding me down. I opened my eyes and could only see darkness. I began to think that this was it. My life and adventures would end in the brown waters of the Tana River.

Finally I popped up, sucking in a lungful of air and river water.

“Are you okay?” Thomas asked me.

“I’m fine,” I coughed up some brown water. “Let’s go again.”

I was only under for less than 10 seconds, but it felt like a lifetime.

After the fifth attempt at surfing, we continued to paddle downriver, twisting into ‘The Gorge’ and going around the 28-foot ‘Mission’s Falls’ through ‘St Joseph’s’ before stopping by the ‘Devil’s Water Bowl’, where we hopped out of the raft and slid down the rock into the toilet-like whirlpool.

From here it was a calm paddle back to camp.

Although the rapids weren’t as big as rafting on the Zambezi, the Tana River is a much more technical challenge.

And now I have a renewed appreciation of life …

Find out about a Kenya safari – find a ready-made safari, or ask us to build one just for you.

Video: Cecil the lion’s adorable grandcubs

On a recent early morning game in Hwange National Park, we made a fantastic discovery of some tiny lion cubs with their mothers. Buli, our guide, informed us that the two lionesses had been seen mating with a male named Xanda some months back. Xanda, a son of Cecil the Lion, has recently come into his prime, and the cubs seen here are thought to be the ‘grand cubs’ of the legendary Cecil. Written and filmed by: Graham Simmonds

Xanda holds a large swathe of Hwange and was recently seen chasing off two nomadic young males on his own.

He obviously took after Cecil the lion, who held vast areas of Hwange during his reign and fought off many would-be challengers single-handedly, even when he was sometimes outnumbered three to one.

Guides from Hwange lodges had seen the cubs a week before when they numbered 10. During our sighting, we counted only eight.

We watched for a while as the cubs called to their mothers and the mothers back to the cubs to move them to a new location.

We left them be as they disappeared into thick bush, hopefully to continue the legacy of Cecil.

UPDATE: Xanda was subsequently also killed by trophy hunters

Zooming in on mesocarnivores

Despite years of biological, ecological, and behavioural research, our knowledge and understanding of mesocarnivores – small to medium-sized carnivores – and their dynamic interactions is still limited. These little predators – mongooses, caracal, honey badgers and the like – are important members of terrestrial ecosystems contributing to seed dispersal, disease ecology and the regulation of rodent and insect populations. The nocturnal habits of several of these species make them a challenge to study. Written by: Andrea Webster, Centre for Wildlife Management, University of Pretoria

Many aspects of our lives have been influenced by technology, and the sciences are no different. Fitting animals with satellite tracking collars or putting up camera traps allows us to monitor animals and their movements without our physical presence interfering with their daily routines. Like most technological things, camera trapping can be tricky if things don’t go according to plan. There’s a fine line between positioning one’s traps to ensure they record the data you are looking for and ensuring they are safe from wandering warthogs looking for a scratching post or curious baboons.

When we began our three-and-a-half month survey of mesocarnivores on Telperion Nature Reserve, a privately owned and managed property in Mpumalanga, in April 2015, we had little idea of the diverse range of mesocarnivores we would find. The undulating grasslands of the 7,350-ha reserve are interspersed with rocky kopjes and spectacular red sandstone cliffs along the Wilge River, which flows through the reserve for about 20km. Smaller tributaries run through the reserve, creating wetlands and reed beds that provide nesting sites for water birds and a much-needed resource to the many antelope and mammal species on the property in the dry season.

Competition is a common phenomenon in natural systems and influences species distribution patterns and diversity in an area. Because organisms don’t exist in isolation, animals must adopt a survival strategy or combination of strategies that allows them to obtain the key elements of survival – food, water, and shelter – while simultaneously avoiding or limiting interactions with competitors and larger predators that may make a meal of them. Using different resources, time or space are some of the ways that animals survive in a competitive environment.

The obvious differences between the open stretches of grassland and the dense, tangled vegetation hemmed in by rocky ledges near the river, together with the differences in resource availability in each vegetation type, offered a unique opportunity to investigate species composition on the property and gain insight into the survival strategies used by different mesocarnivore species occupying each vegetation type.

In our three and a half months of camera trapping, we identified 14 species of mesocarnivores – black-backed jackal, meerkat, slender, yellow and water mongooses, large-spotted genet, caracal, serval, striped pole cat, black-footed cat, honey badger, aardwolf, spotted necked otter and Cape clawless otter.

A family of meerkats move along a game path to a favourite foraging patch in the grassland. — A family of meerkats move along a game path to a favourite foraging patch in the grassland

Two large predator species, leopard and brown hyena, were also detected on the property, making for a wonderfully diverse group of different creatures in such a small area. Aardvark, porcupine, bush pig and cane rat were some of the other species we identified during the study. Contrary to our predictions, many of the species detected utilised grassland more than the concentrated resource riparian areas.

Aardvark looking for termites — An aardvark looks for termites

A leopard makes its way up to higher ground

Our findings showed that despite having similar diets and being active at more or less the same times of day, slender mongoose and yellow mongoose avoid each other by using different attributes within the same vegetation type. While yellow mongooses used only grassland areas, slender mongoose divided their time between the riparian areas and the rocky outcrops of the kopjes to forage for food, thus avoiding competition. Black-backed jackal were the species most often detected during the study and were active throughout most of the day and night, taking time to rest during the heat of the day. They were seldom observed near the river, appearing to favour the use of the riparian area as a corridor. Rusty-spotted genets were active throughout the night and favoured areas around the river the most. When venturing into grassland areas, they kept to the rocky outcrops or wooded areas that provided them with some means of escape should they encounter anything that may consider them a meal. These species used both time and space to limit interactions and, therefore, competition for resources.

Genet, water mongoose, serval, and jackal were active at lower temperatures of around 5ºC, while members of the mongoose family were active at higher temperatures (around 22ºC) during the heat of the day. Jackals were active over the widest range of temperatures from -10ºC to 40ºC. The majority of nocturnal species detected were most active during the phases of the new moon and waxing crescent.

Our study has contributed new details and insights towards understanding the diverse, abundant, and adaptable creatures that are mesocarnivores. Now we know where and when to find them, we can examine further aspects of their behaviour, ecology, interactions with other species, and their role in a changing natural environment.

Keen to find Africa’s small and large carnivores? Check out our safari options – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

Messages of Hope

The talented Lori Robinson realises that it is easy to feel saddened by the state of the wild today, and that’s why she has compiled a book for everyone who cares about wildlife and the wilderness – a book that will inspire anyone who reads it never to give up hope. This is a book about messages of hope.

However, Saving the Wild: Inspiration from 50 Leading Conservationists is much more than a compilation of messages from influencers in the world of conservation. It’s instead a tribute to the human spirit and the power of determination to help species other than ourselves.

This gallery is an insight into the stoic mindset of 10 of these conservation heroes and how they manage to persevere in their calling. So much good is being done on our continent, and so many people are pulling out all the stops to ensure that there is always hope. And we hope these excerpts from a small selection of messages in the book will encourage you to do good too.

You can find out more about Lori on the last page of this gallery, and if these excerpts strike a chord, you can buy the book (link below), so that you always have 50 motivational messages to hand when you need a boost.

In the words of Jane Goodall: “Perhaps you feel depressed as you think about the state of our planet today. If so, buy this book and be inspired by the words of 50 conservationists working to make this a better world.”

Daphne Sheldrick – Founder of The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust in Kenya
Life is never a bed of roses. By involving oneself in the natural world, one understands that the other beings that share our planet home have to cope with far worse traumas and yet find the courage to turn the page and focus on the living.

The elephants, in particular, have given me the strength to emulate them in this way. My work always has highs and lows, but one simply has to cope and accept the rough with the smooth!

There is an enormous benefit for those who study and love the natural world and its wild inhabitants, irrespective of species. It gives one inspiration. One is never bored, lonely, or living in isolation, and there are lessons to learn from nature that stand you in good stead. It takes sincere empathy, compassion, understanding, and, above all, passion and perseverance.

Dr Laurie Marker – Founder and executive director of Cheetah Conservation Fund, Namibia
I first came to Namibia in 1977, and this was when I learned that livestock farmers considered cheetahs vermin. They were killing cheetahs by the hundreds each year… You couldn’t find more negative attitudes in some of them, but I listened because I knew in their minds they had valid reasons to shoot cheetahs. I didn’t want to judge. I wanted to try and understand so that we could work together towards a balanced future. I guess it was all about determination. I don’t allow any negativity to stop the course of my work. I can’t allow anything to affect my inspiration because the cheetah doesn’t have time.

Beverly and Dereck Joubert – Co-founders of Great Plains Foundation, Botswana
Discovering great individual characters, like the little leopard that we followed for over five years for our wildlife film Eye of the Leopard, certainly inspires us to speak out and be their voices, and it keeps us focused on the reasons why we need to protect their wilderness. If we can tell their incredible stories intimately and personally, we know they will be given a chance. These special characters also often become the best ambassadors for their species, as they touch people worldwide and hopefully make them care and want to help protect these amazing creatures…

… Every sacrifice can be seen as a gain; it’s just about always seeing the positive in whatever life hands you and doing the best you can with it to achieve all that you can be for yourself and the world around you.

Dr Jane Goodall – Founder of The Jane Goodall Institute
I still have hope. It is a hope that relies on conservationists, environmentalists, and humanists being able to wake up the great general public. So many people do nothing and become apathetic because they feel helpless and hopeless. Yet billions of small ethical choices made each day will move us toward a more sustainable lifestyle and help heal the planet.

The consequences of our small choices matter: what we buy, eat, and wear; how and where these things were made, whether it involved animal cruelty, slave labour, or the wasteful use of fossil fuel. Most importantly, do we NEED it? Gandhi said so wisely that the planet can produce enough for human need, but not for human greed. It is essential that each one of us takes action and does our bit to make this a better world.

Tom Mangelsen – Nature photographer and founder of Images of Nature Gallery, USA
Jane Goodall is the person who inspires me the most. She has an infectious drive; Jane simply does not allow me to get discouraged… “We CAN’T give up, Tom.”

And it is with Jane’s words in my heart I go out into the wildness, where the earth itself inspires me. Without wildness, I am incomplete; I flounder in a world where I cannot connect to the wilderness and those who live harmoniously on its landscapes. My business has been built upon my ability to capture the images of nature with which I can share nature’s beauty; yet for me, getting another photograph of a bear in Grand Teton National Park is not what takes me there… it is the communion of being in the presence of the bear that feeds my soul.

Grace Ge Gabriel – regional director for the International Fund for Animal Welfare, Asia
The measurable impacts of our comprehensive approach to reducing wildlife trade in China by influencing both market supply and consumer demand inspire me.

I am constantly inspired by the behavioural changes that happen at every level in society. These actions, big or small, reaffirm my determination to stigmatise wildlife trade. To save wildlife species, we have to make the consumption of their parts and products socially unacceptable.

Dr Meg Lowman – Chief of Science and Sustainability at the California Academy of Sciences, USA
I get my inspiration from two things: 1) As a mom, it means a lot to me if I can leave the planet a better place for my children, and 2) as a scientist who devotes much of her time to emerging cultures, such as India and Ethiopia, I feel a true sense of passion to serve as a role model, and inspiration for all the women in those countries, who represent 51 percent of our global IQ and yet have relatively few opportunities unless we empower them.

Personally, I live by the mantra that was expressed in the last two sentences of my book, Life in the Treetops: “One of the most meaningful insights that I have acquired along my life’s journey is that it takes the same amount of energy to complain as it does to exclaim — but the results are incredibly different. Learning to exclaim instead of complaining has been my most valuable lesson.”

Claudine Andre – Founder and director of Lola ya Bonobo, Congo
Bonobo orphans found their way to me. I wanted a paradise for them, somewhere they could always see the sky. And so I created Lola ya Bonobo. This is what keeps me going in the end. This animal is so fragile but so fascinating. I keep hope alive by always trying to do more, to do better.

Iain Douglas-Hamilton – Founder of Save the Elephants, Kenya
Whenever I feel down, I go and hang out with the elephants in Samburu, who are very used to me and allow me into their world to watch as a silent observer. I see the young mothers who have grown up from childhood, and I get my elephant fix for a few hours. This re-invigorates me to face and combat the awful realities of the elephants’ situation in Africa today…

…Various collaborations of concerned individuals, non-governmental organisations, institutions and governments playing such a significant role in demand reduction gives me joy and hope that we are all working together to ensure the survival of elephants.

Paul Watson – Co-founder of the Greenpeace Foundation and founder of the Sea Shepherd Conservation Society, France
I believe that the earth will protect itself from us because no species can survive outside the boundaries of the laws of diversity, interdependence, and finite resources. I aspire to do what I can to help mitigate the consequences for other species and ourselves…

… I believe in the power of individual will, and I believe that a small group of people can change the world by harnessing their imagination and passion and their skills of courage, determination and patience.

Saving Wild: Inspiration from 50 Leading Conservationists

Lori Robinson holds environmental studies, biology and psychology degrees, and has a life-long passion for wildlife and wild places. She has spent time with the indigenous bushmen of the Kalahari Desert and the Maasai and Samburu of Kenya.

From 2004-2010, she worked for The Jane Goodall Institute as their Africa Adventures Specialist and continues to design and sometimes lead safaris for clients to East and Southern Africa. She writes about conservation for various blogs, magazines, and her website – SavingWild.com, and she is a fellow of the International League of Conservation Writers.

She currently lives alongside coyote, deer, rabbits, and bear in a small adobe home in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Saving Wild: Inspiration from 50 Leading Conservationists is her second book, which you can buy here or order from your favourite bookstore.

More incidences of vulture poisoning in South Africa

On Monday, 2nd May, a report of vulture poisoning on a farm in the Dundee district of South Africa was received. A Raptor Rescue Rehabilitation Centre (RRRC) team was dispatched from Pietermaritzburg with the necessary first aid medicine and equipment.

The team arrived on the scene where one dead Critically Endangered African white-backed vulture (Gyps africanus) and four Endangered live Cape vultures (Gyps coprothreres) were found. The symptoms exhibited by the birds and other signs at the scene confirmed suspicions that the birds likely suffered from poisoning after eating carrion laced with an unknown chemical.

Thanks to an intensive search involving staff from the Endangered Wildlife Trust, RRRC, a bird rehabilitation volunteer from Newcastle, the air-wing of the Ezemvelo KwaZulu-Natal Wildlife Honorary Officers, the Stock Theft Unit of the SAPS and the landowner over the following two days, a single live and a further eight dead African white-backed vultures were recovered from the site, bringing the total number of vultures involved to 14.

Thanks to the fast action of the landowner reporting the incident and the rescue team on the ground, all five vultures taken in for treatment were stabilised and expected to fully recover from the poisoning. One of the Cape vultures had also, however, suffered a broken wing and required additional treatment for this injury. The other birds have already been moved to recovery enclosures and are expected to be released as soon as their condition allows.

The indiscriminate use of poison is one of the major causes of the current decline in vulture populations across most of Africa. Africa’s vulture populations cannot sustain losses such as this, and the current decline may well have serious ecological and human health consequences in the longer term. At least 294 vultures are known to have been killed through poisoning in South Africa since January 2016. Considering the relatively small populations of these birds in the country, losses of this scale cannot be sustained. The Zululand region of KwaZulu-Natal has been identified as a known vulture poisoning hotspot, and vulture populations in this area have declined substantially over the last 15 years, primarily due to poisoning and the illegal harvest of these birds for use in muthi (traditional medicine).

vulture poisoning — Poisoned African white-backed vultures on a game reserve in KwaZulu-Natal ©Andre Botha

Quick action and an organised approach when incidents of this nature occur are essential to ensure that the impact on vultures and other species is minimised and to gather as much information as possible from the scene to enable law enforcement to pursue and prosecute those responsible. The EWT’s Birds of Prey Programme is working with various African partners to address this threat. This includes training in poisoning incident intervention and investigation methods to reduce the impact of poisoning events and support effective law enforcement and prosecution of perpetrators of these acts. The training also provides guidance regarding contingency planning and preparation for such incidents.

Vultures poisoned found poisoned in Limpopo province in 2015 ©Andre Botha

At this stage, the exact source of the poisoning or substance used to poison these birds has not been determined. The case is under investigation by the SAPS Glencoe Stock Theft Unit, and members of the public who can provide information in this regard are asked to please contact Warrant Officer Stephen Brown by calling 0828808629.

The rich history of Zanzibar’s dhows

Zanzibar, the jewel of the East African coastline, has it all. With beautiful beaches, fascinating history and cultural influences from Europe to Asia, Zanzibar has an old-world charm that is unique in Africa. But how did this cultural melting pot come into being and why is the dhow such an integral part of that history? Written by Andrew Hofmeyr

Many influences from across the Indian Ocean are woven together in Zanzibar, but to really understand the movement of people, languages and cultures through this enchanting entrepôt, you need to look no further than the dhow.

man-on-dhow-Zanzibar — ©Marc Veraart – Zanzibari dhow

Traditional dhows

The Swahili word ‘dhow’ is a generic term for the pre-European ships of the Indian Ocean. Traditionally these dhows were sewn together using coconut coir (fibre) – a medieval practice born from the belief that magnets under the sea would suck any nails out of a vessel, thus condemning the crew to certain death beneath the waves. The dhows are typically rigged with a lateen sail, the classic triangular-shaped sail attached to a cross beam raised and lowered according to the winds. These boats range in size from small fishermen’s boats to vessels over a hundred feet long!

The Baggala, for example, is an ocean-going dhow with a curved prow (the front) and an ornately carved stern (back) and usually has two lateen sails. The Boom vessel, on the other hand, is curved at both ends with a single large sail in the middle and was preferred by sailors from the Persian Gulf. It is believed that these boats have moved around the Indian Ocean for thousands of years, carrying sailors from the Arabian Peninsula, along the East African coast, to India and even, some believe, as far as China.

Dhow-historic-drawing — Muscat Arab vessel bugala or dhow antique print 1873

Although many deep-water ships existed, the dhows were predominantly used for coastal trade. Moving up and down the East African coast, the dhows stopped at ports along the way, trading goods and ferrying passengers. Before the onset of steam and later petrol, these wind-powered ships were the cornerstones of a pulsating and cosmopolitan ocean trade. The constant movement of tradable goods and diverse people also meant the constant trade in ideas, technologies and religion.

map-banner — Al-Idrisi 12th century map with Mecca (Makkah) center north above Arabia and Europe lower right.

The ancient dhow trade is recorded in the book The Periplus of the Erytraen Sea. Written in the first century by an unknown Greek author, the Periplus guides the ports, people and trade goods of Arabia, India and the East African coast. The existence of this little book suggests a trade route that has continued for thousands of years as empires rose and fell around it. A hint to its sustained importance over centuries lies in the function of the seasonal monsoon.

Ecology and the monsoon winds

The Indian Ocean dhows sailed according to the monsoon trade winds that enabled the movement of goods between rich but completely different ecological zones. The lush tropical zones of East Africa and Madagascar were an important source of timber, gold and ivory, while the nutrient-rich waters surrounding the desert zones of North Africa and the Arabian Peninsula were abundant in pearls, fish and dates.

Dhow-building-in-Zanzibar — © Mark Berkowitz – Zanzibar dhow building

In January, the northeast monsoon carried dhows laden with dried fish and pearls south from Arabia. In July, after nearly six months, the cycle reversed, and the southwest monsoon would blow the dhows, having collected ivory, timber and gold back to Arabia. The combination of the seasonal monsoons, extended layovers and the need to trade between the different ecological zones created the ideal conditions for developing a complex and cosmopolitan society.

Zanzibar and the Indian Ocean

Zanzibar is particularly unique as it was not only the last port of call for the Arabian dhows before sailing the treacherous waters of the Mozambique Channel, but it was also the destination of larger, open ocean ships sailing from the Malabar coast of India. A seafaring culture that saw sailors staying for extended periods of time (up to six months waiting for the monsoon winds to change) meant that Zanzibar developed as a cultural hub. Sailors from all around the Indian Ocean gathered together, mixing religion, language and culture, and it was not uncommon for sailors to take wives and start families, thus deepening the bonds between otherwise distant locations.

These ancient ties were further strengthened by the unification of Islam under the Abbasid caliphate in the 9th century. Some historians note this era of peaceful trade and the spread of Islam as the “Era of Sindbad” – a nod to the importance of maritime trade and commerce in history. This era of a legendary figure – Sinbad the Sailor – lasted until the appearance of the Portuguese in the late fifteenth century, heralding a shift in the culture of the Indian Ocean.

Old Stone Town

Zanzibar, as the cultural nexus of this Indian Ocean trade, holds the evidence of this diverse and exciting history in Stone Town. It is the only functioning historic town in East Africa, and its remarkably well-preserved architecture (mostly from the 19th century) bears the mark of Swahili, Arabian, Persian, Indian and even European influences. In 2000, Stone Town was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its diverse historical and cultural influences.

Old Stone Town is the perfect place to soak up the old-world charm of Zanzibar, with its winding alleys, bustling bazaars, grand merchant houses and mosques calling to be explored.

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Climbing Point Lenana on Mount Kenya

At 5:30 a.m., in the freezing cold, I convinced myself to crawl out of the warm sleeping bag. The stars were still out, and at 4,700 meters, I felt like I could pick one out of the galaxy and pocket it as a souvenir. My target: Point Lenana. Written by Simon OChen

Layering up in warm clothes, I followed our guide, Julian, as we hiked a slow, icy trail to summit Mount Kenya’s third-highest peak, Point Lenana. One of Mount Kenya’s three peaks and the only accessible one in the UNESCO World Heritage national park – unless you can free-climb the 500-metre vertical face of Nelion, the second highest peak, which shadows Point Lenana from an intimidating 5,188 metres.

Batian, the highest peak, rises a further 11 metres behind to give Mount Kenya the title of Africa’s second-highest mountain and, perhaps, the most impressive.

Golden light cast off the mountainside as we climbed higher. The hike took us over a moon-like landscape, large rocks glistening with a gleam from the melting ice as the equatorial sun rose up and warmed us and the earth below.

Deprived of oxygen, my lungs felt it with each slow step I took, biding my time. Reaching the seven-rung steel ladder, I climbed up and tucked in my chin to fend off the slicing breeze.

“Look up,” grinned Julian. “You made it.”

Having gone through rain, hail, acute mountain sickness, loss of appetite, lack of oxygen and a runny stomach, I finally beamed back at the world as I took in the first blue-skied morning we had seen in the five-day trek.

Even though in 1887, Telek Saleki, a Hungarian mountaineer, was the first European to summit Point Lenana, it was the British explorers sent by the Royal Geographic Society that christened the peaks of Mount Kenya. Obtaining permission from the local Maasai chief, Olenana, to accomplish the task, they named the peaks after him and his sons, Batian and Nellylong (mispronounced Nelion by said explorers).

The blanket of clouds below me wrapped over the earth as I stood atop the world at 4,985 metres.

After taking it all in, we hiked down to Austren Hut, the base camp funded by the Austrian Alpine Club that sits under Nelion, and then further down to Mackinder’s Hut, passing Louise’s Glacier that had shrunk significantly since the 1960s (glaciologists give it 10 more years before it’s completely melted).

The gravelly mountainside turned to a well-hiked track, passing tarns and streams fed by the melting ice. We paused for breakfast at Mackinder’s before continuing down, passing giant groundsel plants that were in yellow bloom. Julian said they bloom just four times throughout their lifetime.

Large rock dens had me stop to peek in for signs of leopard. The only concrete proof was the dried spores we came across and the fresh paw print of a large male.

We continued to hike, and the flora grew denser as we dropped in altitude. Soon, we were hiking through a rosewood forest before reaching the vehicle that would take us to a breathable level.

I looked back at the rock that had intimidated me since I first arrived in the region. The fear was gone, and, having put my body through a vigorous acclimatisation period, I felt ready to take on Nelion the following week.

Kenya’s ivory burn: the story in pictures

Some scenes rock your sense of reality. Especially when trying to comprehend something you’ve never seen before and probably never will again. Your brain tries to take it in, process it, and inevitably fails to relate to any particular emotion. This was what I experienced on the 30th of April in Kenya during THE IVORY BURN.

We were informed that 105 tons of ivory and 1.35 tons of rhino horn were set on fire. According to the Kenya Wildlife Service, it was done to send out a strong message “that it will never benefit from illegal ivory and rhino horn captured from poachers or seized in transit,” as well as to illustrate “a zero-tolerance policy and laws against poaching and illegal wildlife trafficking.”

An ivory burn on this scale is without precedent. It was a spectacle, and there was no real chance for quiet contemplation of what it all meant. What follows is not a discussion of burning ivory’s pros and cons but rather an attempt to tell some of the day’s story in pictures.

Everything was grey to start. The skies, the mood; there was an expectation of rain. 11 pyres of ivory stood quietly alongside a metal cage full of rhino horns in Nairobi National Park. The orange vests of the staff were a welcome colour, and their stature helped to understand the size of the piles and individual tusks.

The crowd was modest – a mixed bag of local and international media personalities, politicians, government representatives, and conservationists from all walks of life. There were not many children, but the two in the below photo were clearly excited to be there. I noticed one interviewing a ranger and scribbling on a notepad, and hopefully, she relayed the story to a younger audience.

The burn certainly had the desired media impact. The site buzzed with the sound of camera clicks and the background babble of interviews being conducted. Social media also picked up the message, tied together by the hashtag ‘WorthMoreAlive’.

Something interesting happened as the crowd awaited the arrival of the dignitaries, including President Uhuru Kenyatta of Kenya and President Ali Bongo of Gabon. A flock of yellow-billed kites arrived overhead, wheeling above the stacks of ivory. It is possible that they recognised the likelihood of death and an easy meal of meat associated with the ivory.

Ivory is not flammable, so it must be burnt with massive fuel. After President Kenyatta lit the first pyre, I expected a big ‘whoosh’, but it happened slowly, the flames leaping higher as more fuel was injected. The wind was blowing gently, and the ivory pyres would come and go as the smoke billowed out.

The amount of ivory burning was overwhelming. People jostled for the best view, and the muddy earth sucked my gumboots down with each step. I was looking for something that would hold my gaze for more than a second, a visual anchor in the chaos. And there it was, obvious even from a distance – a small ivory carving standing white against the smoke-blackened tusks on which it rested. The raw material and final product burning together, separated by an ocean on any other day.

Since the burn, I’ve seen many images featuring a steely-looking ranger and a big fire. I, of course, have one, too, because it’s an important image. These men and women represent the frontline in the fight against poaching, and the more the world knows of their efforts, the better.

Strangely, there was no smell, the wind blowing the smoke across the front of the crowd. As the afternoon went on, the sun shone brighter; the light always changing and, with it, the atmosphere.

Ivory stole the show at the event, but there were also 1.35 tons of rhino horn that went up in smoke. Despite fewer numbers of rhinos than elephants being killed each year, these deaths represent a greater proportion of the total rhino population.

Ivory doesn’t turn to ash easily. The fires were anticipated to burn for many days; the remaining ivory was re-stacked a number of times. The flames leapt high long into the evening on day one, and as the natural light faded, the scene took on an apocalyptic feel, perhaps suited to the situation. Eventually, I walked away, still trying to process what I had seen but still not succeeding.

Video: rare footage of white lions mating

White lions in the wild are an extremely rare occurrence and, until recently, were only known to occur in the Timbavati area of South Africa’s Greater Kruger.

white-lioness-timbavati — ©Jen Squillario/safaribugs

They are white from tail to head, not as a result of albinism, but rather leucism, where the pelt is white but the eyes and skin are pigmented. For a cub to be born as a white lion, both parents must carry the recessive white gene, and the cub must inherit this gene from each parent. If a cub receives a dominant “tawny” gene, its pelt will be tawny, so a litter can comprise both white and tawny cubs.

Some lucky guests in Timbavati not only caught a glimpse of the elusive white lions but also got to see them mating!

Guest Jen Squillario describes the scene: “When researching the Timbavati, you will inevitably come across photos of the white lions. But they seem mythical. It’s not something you think you’ll ever see, and a part of us doubted that they were real. So, when we booked our stay at Tanda Tula, we didn’t think we would see a white lioness, let alone two white lionesses. The thought didn’t even cross our minds.

“After our first drive with our guide, Civilized, we sat and swapped a few stories before dinner – his being a lot more interesting than ours. Civilized mentioned that sometimes they see white lions in the area; it had been a few weeks, but it was a real possibility. Yet the thought that we could see white lions still did not register as a real possibility.

“The next morning, early on in the drive, Civilized got a message on the radio that got him excited, but you could tell he didn’t want to tell us straight away what it was. He could hardly contain his enthusiasm, though and after just a bit of prodding, he said: ‘I think we’re going to see some white lions today.’

“We made our way there and spent a significant amount of time with a tawny lion lethargically mating with a white lioness.

“That afternoon, we returned. The tawny male was still mating with a white lioness but with a bit more spirit. You could have called him flirty, as he was even trying to bite her tail as she walked by.

A second white lioness and a tawny lioness joined them. There was a noticeable shift; the females were not only the majority in number, but they also started to control the conversation. Civilized hypothesised that the tawny lioness was also in oestrous – how he knew was a mystery to us. Yet it seems he was right. In fact, the second white lioness simulated mating with the tawny lioness as if trying to show the male this is how you mate, and she is next. The male lion may be the king, but the lionesses rule the empire.”

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