Announcing… the winners, runners-up and highly commended images for Photographer of the Year 2024
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And the winner is…
Let the trumpets blare… we have a victor! This week, we reveal the winner, runners-up and highly commended images from Photographer of the Year 2024. Thank you for journeying with us through this celebration of Africa’s epic wins and painful losses. You’ve experienced with us the decay and the growth, the doomed and the new, the beastly and the holy, the survival, the rites and the rituals portrayed by these images. And thank you to all the photographers who entered – for bringing Africa to all the world. This year we received a staggering 6,796 entries, and selected 414 photos for our weekly galleries. No easy feat…
I look forward to hearing your thoughts on our winners featured in the gallery below. Also check out the Blood Lions photo series on the exploitation of predators behind bars.
Longing for a getaway? If these safaris have you itching to travel, tell us about your ideal trip here, or hop on a call with our experts and let’s start crafting your unique safari experience.
Take to the skies on this unique desert flying safari. You’ll explore Namibia’s awe-inspiring desert landscapes on a journey above the dramatic Skeleton Coast and the great Atlantic coastline.
You’ll also encounter desert-adapted lions, elephants and rhinos and delve into Namibia’s iconic dunes of Sossusvlei and the vibrant culture of the Himba people. This safari is for those looking to fuel their adventurous spirit!
This extraordinary journey will take you on an eight-day primate quest to meet some of the most iconic ape and monkey species of East and Central Africa. From the critically endangered Grauer’s gorilla in the DRC and the fabled mountain gorillas in the Virungas, to the charismatic golden monkeys and primal pant-hooting chimpanzees of Nyungwe (Rwanda), this safari is a celebration of all things primate. The spectacular scenery and enthralling birding are bonuses!
“Two fabulous lodges: Enkewa and Saruni Samburu. Wonderful service, and great guides. Breathtaking accommodation and scenery at Saruni. New, unusual mammals for us and dozens of new birds. Teenage grandchildren loved the whole adventure. Well arranged by Africa Geographic as usual.” – Lex, from South Africa, travelled with AG to Maasai Mara and Samburu National Reserves in Kenya.
“Christian developed a thorough itinerary that covered all of our areas of interest. Shortly before departing on our trip, there was a major political crisis that necessitated a change to two days of our schedule. Christian managed those changes effectively and ensured that our adventures were still amazing. Our driver/guide, Lucky, anticipated all of our needs and managed every moment of our trip. I recommend AG without hesitation.” – Juan, from the USA, travelled with AG on our ultimate primate safari, visiting Mgahinga Gorilla National Park (Uganda), and Volcanoes and Nyungwe National Parks (Rwanda).
WATCH: Looking for something different? Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve is Malawi’s oldest and largest reserve – encompassing 1,800km2 (180,000 hectares) of wild and rugged terrain. Nkhotakota is Africa at her most raw and beautiful, removed from the indignities of mass commercial tourism. Learn more here. (06:03) Click here to watch
And the winner is…. After careful consideration and much deliberation, we are pleased to announce the results for Photographer of the Year 2024. These talented photographers have captured the essence of Africa through their lenses, resulting in a powerful mix of photographs.
Each of the three winners (the overall winner and two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safari in Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
A note from our CEO
How we agonised over this final selection!
What truly stood out for us this year was the unique and diverse biodiversity reflected in the entries – from grand landscapes and iconic mammals that rule their kingdoms to avian candy and fascinating insects. This year’s winners and highly commended photos are a stunning reflection of the incredible beauty of this continent we call home and a testament to their exceptional skills.
For some reason, this year, more leopard and lion photos made it into the final selection. Every year brings a new theme – this is an organic process that we have no influence over. What a joy it was to watch these outstanding entries fill our inbox every day!
Of course, artificial intelligence (AI) is now commonplace during post-production editing, and we can see that beneficial impact when comparing the RAW photographic files to these photos. Importantly, we do not permit any images generated via AI.
Congratulations to every entrant who made it through thousands of entries to appear in our weekly selections, Top 105, Finalists, and these Winners. Thanks for sharing your beautiful work with us and trusting us to honour and recognise you. In this modern world of cheap imitations and instant gratification, these entries stand out as reflecting our core value system, which is driven by authenticity and time invested.
This gorilla’s beckoning gesture and relaxed demeanour invite a rare glimpse into his world. Dewald’s winning photograph captures a unique and significant moment of intimacy between two great apes. The silverback’s initiation of the close encounter adds a distinct and impactful element to this moment. Dewald would’ve needed to keep his composure in the midst of an unnerving moment. Maintaining his focus on the gorilla’s eyes, while allowing its hand to dominate the photograph, gives an added dimension to the photograph.
Photographer and photo details – read more
Dewald says: “Conservation of the critically endangered mountain gorillas in Rwanda is one of the rare success stories in Africa and serves as a beacon of hope for the rest of the continent. More than 1,000 individuals remain in the rainforests bordering Rwanda, Uganda and the DRC. While I was trekking for mountain gorillas in Volcanoes National Park, the dominant silverback casually flopped down directly in front of me, observing his reflection in the lens of my camera. Surrounded by thick vegetation, I had nowhere else to go. I kept a submissive posture with my eyes downcast. He stretched out his hand to touch his reflection in the lens, and for the briefest moment, I imagined him extending his hand to greet me as an old friend. A moment in time that will stay with me for the rest of my life.”
About photographer Dewald Tromp
Originally from Windhoek, Namibia, Dewald grew up in the small rural town of Belfast, Mpumalanga. As a child, all his family holidays were spent camping or hiking in the Kruger National Park. This is where his love for nature was cultivated. Although he works in the medical field, wildlife photography has been his passion for the last 20 years. Dewald and his wife have travelled extensively around the globe to photograph rare and exciting wildlife. Through his images, he wants to influence people to start thinking about conservation and protecting the last remaining wild places on Earth.
Ivan’s patience resulted in this exceptional capture of an exhilarating moment as the mother leopard ferries her tiny bundle across the river. We can only speculate why she would run the crocodile gauntlet of a river crossing – adding to the allure of this intimate image. Maintaining a well composed image in a moment that took mere seconds requires skill and a steady hand.
Photographer and photo details – read more
Ivan says: “I waited 10 hours to get this shot while in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. My guide, Shaddy Tira from Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp, and I knew the leopard known as Bahati had hidden her cubs in a den alongside a river a few days before. We felt there was a high chance she would be moving them to a new den soon. We also knew that Bahati was not in the den with the cubs and that she would at least have to return to the den soon to nurse them. We parked in the river crossing about 70m from the den and waited. Seven hours passed, but Bahati never appeared. We had to return to camp as it was getting dark. We returned first thing the next morning and determined through listening to the cubs calling that they were still in the den, and that Bahati had not yet returned. We waited another three hours before Bahati suddenly appeared, jumping across the river from the other side to get to the den. After briefly nursing her cubs, she gently picked them up in her mouth and carried them across the river, one by one. It was a moment I will never forget.”
About photographer Ivan Glaser
Ivan was born into a family of wildlife and photography enthusiasts in South Africa, where his deep passion for African wildlife and wildlife photography took root at an early age. Sharing this passion through his photography has always brought him joy. In his mid-twenties, Ivan emigrated to Australia and began his corporate career. During those years, his focus shifted away from wildlife and photography as his professional responsibilities and family took precedence. However, in 2019, an extraordinary opportunity presented itself when Ivan joined an Africa Geographic photo safari to the Maasai Mara National Reserve. Under the expert guidance of renowned Norwegian wildlife photographer Arnfinn Johansen and in the welcoming embrace of Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp, Ivan’s wildlife photography skills were radically transformed, and his love for Africa was reaffirmed. Now in retirement, he is wholeheartedly pursuing his lifelong passion for wildlife and wildlife photography by making regular trips back to the Maasai Mara, hosting guided photo safaris for small groups of fellow wildlife and photography enthusiasts who share his love for the natural world.
Greg’s capture inspires a sense of awe at the bulk and power of this male leopard as he patrols his territory. The mosaic of multiple elements – dust, water vapour & backlighting – complement each other perfectly to inspire an other-worldly, spiritual feeling in this epic photo. Greg allowed the backlit halo of dust to add a new dimension to his image, rather than detract from it.
Photographer and photo details – read more
Greg says: “It was a cold and nippy night in South Africa’s MalaMala Game Reserve, within Sabi Sands Game Reserve, when our safari guide received a radio call to say that one of the dominant male leopards was on his nightly patrol and heading our way. We pulled off the road slightly, switched off and waited in a dip. It was pitch dark, and it took ages for our subject to appear out of the night. When he finally did, he stood there, a vision before us, his outline made visible by another safari truck’s lights shining from behind. Frantically selecting the correct settings in manual mode and pressing my shutter button, I could only hope that the steam and dust had been recorded in my exposure. Leopards are Africa’s most enigmatic predators, and by silhouetting just the outline and the exhaled breath, I hoped to pay homage to my beautiful and mysterious subject. There are some photographs that you never forget taking – this is one of mine.”
About photographer Greg du Toit
For over two decades, South African-born Greg du Toit has been solely devoted to photographing Africa’s wildlife. His fine art collections have been shown from New York to Singapore, and his work has hung in natural history museums from Canada to Australia. His solo exhibition, ‘Authentic Africa’, hosted by the National Geographic gallery on London’s Regent Street, was a sell-out. The BBC Wildlife Magazine featured the article, ‘A waiting game’, detailing his 270 hours spent sitting inside a Kenyan waterhole. He is the author of three books: AWE, a coffee-table book containing a decade’s worth of imagery and Getting it right in camera, a how-to book for wildlife photographers. Wilderness dreaming is the title of his African memoir, filled with wild bush adventures in his search of lost Africa. The BBC World Service has interviewed him, he has appeared on NBC’s TODAY show and has, as a guest speaker, delivered presentations as far afield as northern Finland. Through his online galleries, his limited-edition prints bring Africa to the walls of homes worldwide. Greg donates some of his prints to both humanitarian and wildlife charities.
This lonely penguin’s seemingly forlorn posture speaks to the species’ rapidly diminishing status and uncertain future. The choice of black-and-white and moody post-production elements emphasise this uncertainty. The African penguin population is believed to be less than 2% of what it was at the start of the 20th century, and the slide continues. Declining fish stocks drive the reduction of the penguin population – caused by overfishing and climate change-induced warmer water, which drives the fish shoals further away from the penguins’ breeding grounds.
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Andries says: “On a cold and rainy morning, I visited the penguin colony at Boulders Beach in Simon’s Town, in Cape Town, South Africa. The clouds were dark, and I was the only person on the beach in the SANParks-run area where a colony of African penguins are protected. I walked around with my camera and wide-angle lens in search of that one special moment to capture. I managed to capture a series of images of penguins on the day, but this specific one where the penguin’s bent head seemed to convey grief as if he were the only one left, with no other penguins around, stood out to me. On this dark, cloudy day, the natural decision for me was a black-and-white conversion of the image, which contributes to the story depicted in the scene of an endangered breed alone.”
The joyful exuberance of this moment brings a smile to the eyes. So much rhino imagery these days focuses on their status as prime poaching targets, so this happy capture is a breath of fresh air. The sight of a complete set of horns is rare these days, adding to how special this capture is. The lower angle of the shot serves to empower the rhino subject, adding an element of awe and wonderment for these otherwise vulnerable beasts.
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Amish says: “This photo depicts two southern white rhinos seemingly playing a game of tag. It provides a sense of place that is spacious, free and with no threats. The small rhino running in the back provides an additional layer for the photo. The rhino conservancy where this image was taken plays a central role in rehabilitating the species in East Africa and helps to facilitate reintroduction of rhinos all over Africa. Talk about the recovery of a species!”
Who does not enjoy a lineup of big cats drinking – especially when they are all facing you? The uncertain, feral look in the eyes of these young lions adds to the sense of rugged wilderness. Keith captured this moment with clarity, despite the challenges of difficult lighting and multiple moving subjects.
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Keith says: “This shot was taken at Dinaka, at the northern edge of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, in mid-November, on the last day of a two-week South African safari. The lion pride, including two males, several females and eight cubs, occasionally visited the waterhole where this image was taken. I received information the previous evening that the pride were there and hoped they would still be there in the morning. I set off early, at 5am, before sunrise, with a guide to check it out. The air was still and relatively cool for the time of year. We got to the waterhole in 15 minutes, and to our delight, the pride was still there, all resting at the time. I got my camera set up and waited for the lions to become more active, and it wasn’t long before they started moving, followed by a loud morning call from the pride. That is a sight and sound to behold. Shortly afterwards, the cubs made their way to the water’s edge, looking around whilst they got in position to drink. I was amazed that they all lined up next to each other as if it were rehearsed. It is common to find lions group together when drinking, but cubs tend to have adults with them or do it in smaller groups. So, I was fortunate that all the cubs came together for that moment. This was a challenging shot as the sun still hadn’t risen, and despite the high-low light performance in modern cameras, I had to quickly decide to balance my ISO with a fast enough shutter speed to get a usable shot. My camera was rested on a bean bag, and I was on manual with a 400mm lens at 1/40 sec, F4, with an ISO of 5000. Recognising that this would create some image blur if any of the cubs moved, I trusted that with my camera set at 30 frames-per-second, at least one would be sharp. So I fired away, knowing this was one of those special moments that rarely happen in wildlife photography. When returning to the lodge later that morning, after reviewing the shots I had taken, I was so happy that I had that one sharp image that perfectly captured that magical moment.”
Tea and biscuits, anybody? The likeness to an old gent relaxing in his favourite chair and watching the grandchildren play makes this an endearing capture. Anthropomorphism aside, the pondering gaze emphasises that chimps are our closest relatives. While Zenya also had the opportunity to capture multiple busy chimpanzees in action during her time with the troop, she instead set her focus and attention on this chimp, taking the time to capture this pensive moment.
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Zenya says: “Walking through the Kibale Forest in Uganda was like stepping into a dream. Where the line between man and animal fades away, and you realise just how similar we are to our close relative, the chimpanzee. When first entering the forest, the only sound was rumbling thunder and crunching leaves under our feet. A chorus of calls split the air, guiding us to the chimpanzees. We picked up our pace, following the new sound that brought the forest to life. Minutes later, we encountered a trio of males sitting on the ground, watching our approach. I was so excited to be with these males, that I didn’t realise we were in the middle of a large family – until my guide tapped me on the shoulder and quietly pointed behind me. My eyes then started to wander and slowly take in my surroundings. This wondrous world soon expanded, showing a mother holding a young baby, adolescents swinging in the trees, napping adults scattered about on the ground, and a chimpanzee sitting on a fallen limb just as a person might sit. I carefully made my way to the sitting chimpanzee, who never shifted or looked in my direction, his gaze transfixed on a distant spot as if lost in a daydream. It is incredible how similar we are to chimpanzees; they watched me as I watched them, communicated with each other as I communicated with my guide, and walked through the forest as I walked through the forest. As the hour ended, I took one last look at the sitting chimpanzee, still lost in thought, and silently thanked the family who had briefly accepted me into their home.”
The backstory of planning and patience makes this capture worthy of recognition. And the unusual bottom-up perspective, as this leopard propels itself up the tree, emphasises the power of these big cats. There was plenty that could’ve (and did) go wrong when trying to take this image – from focal points and falling leaves, to the unpredictable habits of the leopard, but Thomas perservered to capture an awesome shot.
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Thomas says: “Captured during the midday, this striking photograph, taken in Maasai Mara, reveals the exceptional tree-climbing prowess of leopards. Known for their agility in scaling trees, leopards use this skill to safeguard their prey from scavengers and predators and ambush their prey from above. Their robust necks and shoulders enable them to haul prey much heavier than themselves up into the safety of lofty branches. In this scene, I positioned my camera beneath the tree where the leopard had stashed its food, anticipating its return. The setup was fraught with challenges, from the constant threat of dry leaves obscuring the lens to unpredictable elements like rain, and the possibility of the leopard approaching from an unexpected direction. Despite numerous setbacks and failed attempts, perseverance paid off as I finally captured this rare and unique angle of the leopard. The image captures the leopard in a moment of careful inspection, poised amid its strategic behaviour. Its tail balances expertly as it ascends, illustrating the elegance and adaptability of this magnificent predator in its natural environment.”
This arresting image bursts through and grabs the eye for its stark portrayal of Mother Nature in all her brutality. The impala’s apparent look of surprise adds to the drama, and the wild dog’s casual gaze emphasises that this is business as usual for any predator (including humanity). Anyone who has spent time with wild dogs knows the frenzy of the hunt and the ensuing feed – which requires constant adjustment and divided attention in choosing the right subject. Michael chose his subject perfectly, while photographing from the best possible angle.
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Michael says: “A dramatic and rare wildlife moment in South Luangwa National Park, Zambia, on the Kulandila Plain. The impalas and pukus were scattering, indicating the presence of predators. The resident pack of African wild dogs (painted wolves) had successfully hunted down a young impala ram. By the time I reached the action, the wild dogs had consumed most of the impala and were carrying away parts of the carcass. I spotted one dog carrying the impala’s head towards a grassy bank. I strategically positioned the vehicle in a gulley next to the bank, hoping to capture a low-angle shot. Patience is vital, and when a dog finally climbed the bank, I took advantage of a brief but incredible photographic opportunity. It is truly a once-in-a-lifetime sighting, highlighting the unpredictability and excitement of wildlife photography.”
The chameleon’s luminous green contrasts with the dry leaves’ drab brown as it scans the photographer from its nighttime hideaway. Of all the photos in this final stage, this one required the least post-production editing and is the most similar to the raw file version – demonstrating the photographer’s skill in painting with the limited light available.
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Matthias says: “I found this Knysna dwarf chameleon while nightspotting in Diepwalle Forest, Western Cape, South Africa. I saw a few of them that night, but this young one caught my eye because it had found shelter between two dead leaves. This precarious position and the contrast of colours and textures underlined its vulnerability. Dwarf chameleons are endemic to Southern Africa and comprise twenty species with restricted distributions. The Knysna-Tsitsikamma area holds the largest remnant of afrotemperate forest upon which this chameleon depends.”
This extraordinary action shot grabs the attention and tells an epic story. Warthogs are formidable gladiators – none more so than a mother. Each of the three combatants shows the moment’s stress in their facial expressions – especially the leopard, which has just been barged into from behind. Capturing the pinnacle of the hunt, with each subject portrayed crisply and clearly, was no mean feat on the photographer’s part.
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Aidan says: “We had just arrived on the scene when we found that Faulu, a leopard we had been following, was beginning to hunt a family of warthogs. There were three piglets in the family of six warthogs, and Faulu separated them. After initially attempting to run away, the mother warthog’s maternal instincts took over, and she swivelled around to defend her piglet as Faulu was gaining ground on it. Faulu caught the piglet and was in the process of attempting to kill it when the brave mother warthog attacked the right side of Faulu’s pelvis with her tusks. The leopard was caught off guard by the attack as she hadn’t seen the mother and jumped into the air with the wounded piglet flying out of her mouth. As the piglet landed, it scampered under its mother’s body, petrified of Faulu’s oncoming pursuit. The attempt was swiftly abandoned as the furious mother warthog chased the leopard away down the hill, with the other warthogs looking on gleefully. Everybody at the scene was astonished by what we had just witnessed, and even our Maasai guide, John, was quietly muttering, ‘Wow…wow…wow.’ It was an unforgettable magical moment in the Maasai Mara.”
This evocative image resembles last year’s winning photo of a lion shaking off the early morning dew. The choice of black & white adds to the halo impression caused by the movement. Lower lighting following the storm and the leopard’s rapid movement would’ve been challenges for most photographers, but Andrea was able to overcome these to create a remarkable portrait.
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Andrea says: “Captured in the afternoon following a brief summer shower in Maasai Mara, I captured a majestic leopard shaking off the water from its sleek coat. The composition is framed to showcase the leopard in mid-shake, its powerful muscles and dripping fur frozen in exquisite detail against the lush green backdrop of the savannah. This fleeting moment captures the essence of wild beauty, offering a rare glimpse into the intimate life of one of Africa`s most elusive and iconic predators. The choice of black and white is to emphasise the water droplets forming a circle around the leopard, reminding me of a planet surrounded by the universe.”
This stunning capture makes us feel like the prey as this young lion locks onto his target. The photographer found himself in the ideal vantage point to capture a unique view of the stalk, not often shown. The shallow depth of the field contrasts with a sharp focus on the lion’s face to accentuate the effect.
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Hannes says: “A young lion, full of ambition and hunger, faces a daunting challenge that stands in the way of his success as a predator. Despite his best efforts, his lack of experience is a significant obstacle in his attempt to stalk a herd of gemsbok. His youthful exuberance and determination are not enough to compensate for his inexperience, which becomes evident as the gemsbok quickly detects his approach long before he emerges over the dune. The primary giveaway is his scant, fluffy mane, a telltale sign of his youth and inexperience. This small tuft of fur on his head betrays his presence to the vigilant gemsbok – antelopes that are always looking for potential threats. As a result, the gemsbok can spot him from a distance, well before his eyes even break the horizon. This premature detection prevents the young lion from getting close to his intended prey, leaving him frustrated and hungry. For this aspiring hunter, the growth of his mane is not just a matter of appearance but a crucial factor in his ability to conduct a successful ambush. A fully developed mane cascading down the sides of his head would help him blend into his surroundings more effectively, providing the necessary camouflage to approach his prey undetected. This natural progression in his physical development is essential for his transformation into a skilled and effective predator. This experience serves as a pivotal lesson for the young lion. He learns that patience and time are as important as ambition and energy. The evolution of his mane represents a significant step in his journey towards becoming a proficient hunter. As he matures and his mane grows, he will gain the tools and experience to succeed in the wild. This critical lesson underscores the importance of growth and development in the life of a predator, reminding the young lion that each challenge he faces is a stepping stone towards achieving his ultimate goal of mastering the art of the hunt.”
The backlit cub and soft colours accentuate the moment’s tenderness as this lioness carries her cub to safety, and the tight crop emphasises the moment’s intimacy. This is a beautiful capture, accentuated by the styling choices made by the photographer.
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Irena says: “This was taken in the breathtaking landscape of Ngorongoro, Tanzania, during a nature photography expedition. We witnessed the lioness’s unwavering commitment to her offspring, showing that even the most powerful creatures possess an innate capacity for tenderness and love. This photograph captures a rare and intimate wildlife moment and serves as a metaphor for the strength and gentleness that coexist within all of us. As a mother of two young boys, this moment struck a deep chord within me, evoking a profound sense of connection and empathy. ”
We receive many photo entries of Amboseli’s giants with Mount Kilimanjaro looming in the background, so it takes a really special version of this photograph to capture our imaginations. The eye-level perspective in Karthick’s image emphasises this giant elephant in his domain, and the low clouds and snow-capped Kili peaking out above, as well as the bird inflight, all add to the sense of drama. Add to this the choice of black and white, and the angle of the elephant’s gaze, and you have an excellent capture.
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Karthick says: “Amboseli National Park is a haven for wildlife, making it a prime spot for photography. Amboseli is known for its large elephant population, many of which are often photographed with Mount Kilimanjaro in the background. I dreamed of capturing an elephant with Mount Kilimanjaro in the background on every visit to the area. Usually, one was visible, but not the other. This hide-and-seek went on for years. On the day this photograph was taken, I felt like God smiled on me. One peaceful morning, my dream came true. A majestic elephant walked towards me with elegance. The tusker stood prominently as Mount Kilimanjaro loomed behind, its snow-capped peak piercing the azure sky. Clouds hung halfway, adding mystery. Nature’s grandeur was captured in a fleeting moment. I stayed calm, knowing I had only seconds before the elephant moved on. Looking through my camera, I cherished the view. The juxtaposition of the elephant against Mount Kilimanjaro was powerful and peaceful. In that instant, I felt a profound bond with nature. This picture speaks volumes about Amboseli’s beauty and wildlife, showcasing an extraordinary perspective and stunning scenery.
We can all imagine ourselves setting up this capture with our toes in the cold Atlantic Ocean waters and that endless night sky beckoning. That sense of being drawn into the experience makes this a great image. While we receive many photos capturing the Milky Way, this photo, with its silky waters, the stars reflecting on the water, and the added apparition of the Shawnee shipwreck that seems to be aglow on the inside, is an epic shot.
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Lucy says: “Last year in July, some friends and I went wild camping along the Namibian skeleton coast for six days. I love wild camping, as one can get to the most remote places and see not too many people. We made camp on the dunes way above the Shawnee shipwreck. It’s remarkable how high some of these dunes are. My friends and I all went down to the shore with our cameras, tripods and lack of shoes. The sand was beautifully warm from the last of the sun’s rays. The Atlantic Ocean, on the other hand, was utterly freezing. I was unsure how my feet would cope later that night, as we decided that we would paddle into the water to take images of the Shawnee wreck with the Milky Way and billions of twinkling stars reflecting in the wet sand. I woke up at 2am and walked carefully down to the shoreline. The sky was void of clouds and there was not even a hint of sea mist. Funnily enough, the ocean temperature wasn’t as Baltic as I thought it would be. The tide was slowly coming in. I managed to capture one of my most beloved images that morning, with the reflection of the stars in the wet sand as the waves were pulling in and out and the Milky Way hung over the Shawnee wreck. While on the slow walk back up to the campfire, and later while defrosting my feet whilst sipping my first cup of coffee of the day, I appreciated every second of how lucky I was to experience this. I look forward to my next adventure!”
This evocative image transports us all to a moment of quiet contemplation, no matter our choice of spiritual comfort. The moment transcends all belief systems and religions to speak to our inner soul. The moody highlighting of the Hieroglyphs add to the sense of passing time and fleeting history, and the photographer’s choice of subject help us to envision ourselves in this sacred space.
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Rachelle says: “An overnight train and sunrise boat across the Nile had me standing at the gates of Karnak Temple in Luxor, Egypt. I stared in awe as I entered a true wonder of the world. Workers and guides started arriving, and we all started our day in silence. I soon found myself engulfed in a grand hall of magnificently massive columns, lavishly decorated in carvings and hard to comprehend. A smiling man appeared, and I couldn’t help but notice that everyone had gone out of their way to greet and chat him up. I could see why; his energy was grand, and he seemed a master of this environment. I introduced myself and explained my quest. I was here to work on a project about Egypt and showed him a portfolio of my work. He loved the work, and we shared a lot of kind words. Setting off, we were soon deep in a maze of unbelievable wonder. Mahmoud was his name, and he had worked here for over 50 years. He started as a young boy working alongside his father, a man who also spent his life here at Karnak. Mahmoud has spent his entire life working here, surrounded by secrets and ancient artefacts; how could I be so lucky to become friends with him? We walked and talked as he imparted knowledge and pointed out ancient feats of human achievement. But, when we entered a temple on the far side of the complex, we shared what I can only call a spiritual experience. We entered a closed room; I was greeted by deafening silence and the smell of sand. A singular beam of light sliced through the darkness and illuminated a portion of the room. Thousands of years after this temple was built, I stood there as the unknown viewer, gazing at the hand of the unknown artist. It was breathtaking. He told me that, throughout the day, different parts of the room were revealed. I was awestruck. He cupped the light beam with his hands, and I captured his portrait. The moment was brief as we soon had to leave; very few people were allowed in this room. As we walked away, I understood how lucky I was; his contribution to my project, ‘Winds of the Nile’, would be something I would need to ponder for many years.”
The shallow depth of field and sharp focus seem to transport the tussle between the eagle and prey to that critical moment when all else stands still, and all that matters is what is happening right here, right now. Capturing a moment like this at eye-level is a rare opportunity, that was expertly seized by the photographer.
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Thomas says: “In this captivating image, a martial eagle dominates the scene as it captures and kills a leguaan. Initially focused on photographing lions, I spotted the eagle in the distance, its wings unfurled in a dramatic display. Intrigued, I approached and realised it was amidst a fierce hunt. The martial eagle, Africa’s largest eagle, is an imposing creature known for its strength. With a wingspan reaching over 2m and weighing nearly 6.5kg, it possesses formidable power and is capable of astonishing feats like breaking bones with its talons. Its dark brown upperparts contrast sharply with a white belly adorned with black streaks, while its legs are white with enormous talons that ensure its prowess in hunting. In this shot, the eagle’s wings are fully extended, showcasing its impressive size and the moment’s intensity. The posture of the eagle exudes a sense of triumph, capturing the essence of its victorious battle with the monitor lizard.”
In South Africa, almost 400 captive wildlife facilities exist across the country. Keeping animals in captivity has increasingly been acknowledged as exploitative and profit-driven despite claims by those in the industry about its educational and conservation value. Stephanie Klarmann, Blood Lions campaign coordinator takes a closer look.
This photo series critically examines life behind bars and asks the question: are we actually comfortable with exploiting captive wildlife for profit and entertainment?
As a burgeoning industry, it solely exists to feed an insatiable demand for entertainment, live wildlife trade, hunting trophies, and big-cat body parts. According to Blood Lions research* conducted between 2017 and 2020:
Captivity permits were issued for at least 5,508 lions, 496 cheetahs, 198 leopards, 382 tigers, and a staggering 804 other wild cats.
Over this same period, at least 1,707 hunting permits were issued for 1,572 captive lion hunts in addition to cheetah and leopard hunts.
The data gathered regarding CITES permits show that 6,380 export permits were issued for 1,366 lions and 294 other captive wild cat species. This included 456 lion skeletons and live exports for 188 lions and 76 other cat species.
The commercial captive wildlife industry is big business. But the commercial captive-predator industry is fighting harder than ever to stay alive, and it has turned into a voracious sector built on exploitation.
More than ever, we need to scrutinise the greenwashing claims of environmental education, community upliftment, and conservation benefits made by those most invested in keeping wild animals captive.
We also need to ask ourselves how comfortable we are in allowing the exploitation to continue. Public advocacy can help inform policy decision-makers to prioritise animal well-being and genuine wild conservation.
Urgent action is required to prevent further exploitation of captive wildlife by closing down the commercial captive predator industry.
Unfortunately, commercial captive wildlife facilities do not provide valuable lessons about wildlife species and their conservation needs. They teach us about dominating the natural world and caging it for entertainment. Is this a lesson worthy of passing on to children?
Still more worrying, facilities hurt genuine conservation efforts. The resources and finances that go into visitor fees for predator parks, environmental management inspectorates, steep volunteer fees, and criminal enforcement could all be directed into the genuine conservation of land and species in the wild and functioning ecosystems. The entry fees for many commercial captive facilities exceed the entrance to our richly biodiverse Kruger National Park. Furthermore, the legal commercial captive industry further contributes to a dark, illegal industry in which live and dead animals enter black markets.
Following former Minister Barbara Creecy’s promise in 2021 to take steps towards closing the commercial captive lion industry, a Ministerial Task Team was appointed in December 2022 to spearhead a phase-out process. The task team included a panel of wildlife and welfare experts to devise voluntary phase-out options for captive breeders, owners, and traders. In March 2024, we finally saw the release of this extensive report.
Whilst reaching this point is certainly a small victory, the government still has to make significant progress in implementing this phase-out process. Organisations like Blood Lions strongly advocate that the first port of call needs to be a moratorium on all commercial captive breeding to halt the industry’s ever-growing growth before it continues to grow beyond control.
* The animals in this photo series are commercial commodities in the larger captive lifecycle. The images were taken at popular tourist facilities, some even claiming to be sanctuaries. These animals will remain within small enclosures for the entirety of their lives. They may be sold on, used for breeding, or killed in a captive hunt or for body parts. None of these outcomes are favourable for them.
Black-footed cats desperately gather at the fence of their enclosure. They were skittish and showed distress behaviours. Usually solitary in the wild and able to roam 4 to 16km in search of food, these cats were grouped together in a small enclosure of only several square metresThe Eurasian lynx inhabits the temperate and boreal forests extending across Europe and Central Asia. Here he inhabits a more desolate space, looking out onto a caracal enclosure even smaller than his ownLeopard territories often exceed 10 square kilometres in the wild. This leopard continued to pace up and down an enclosure fence of only about 8 metres in length. She stood directly opposite a tiger enclosure. Such close proximity between big cats in the wild would cause stress and conflict. In captivity, the constant forced contact is immensely stressfulStereotypic behaviours like pacing are common in captive animalsPacing behaviour is a clear indication of stress and boredomA male lion (on the right) has a severe case of sarcoptic mange, a serious skin condition caused by mites burrowing under the skin. The lion’s stressful and unhygienic living conditions, coupled with a poor diet of chicken carcasses, have likely caused this contagious disease, which is extremely itchy and painful. The park manager, however, misrepresented the lion’s illness, calling it a ‘lesser maned lion’. It was clear no treatment had been providedA tiny enclosure of no more than 20 square metres holds three leopards, including a black leopardThe three leopards took turns trying to force their paws and heads through a small hole in the fenceUsually solitary in the wild, three leopards in such a confined space suffer high stress levelsAn overweight lioness paces her enclosure. Although she is a proud animal in the wild, this lioness is alone. Untreated mange has started to appear on her noseA tiger cub seeks out its mother, pacing and intermittently calling to try and get her attention – but she’s kept separate so she can be raised by handThe tiger cub sits at attention as it hears its mother calling back only metres away
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Will we regret this?
This week, I followed a Facebook discussion about the trophy hunting of the remaining Amboseli GIANT ELEPHANTS by Tanzanian operators. ‘Super tuskers’ are the few magnificent specimens left with tusks that touch the ground. There are 50–100 individuals left across the continent and about ten in Kenya’s Amboseli area – some of whom regularly wander across the border into Tanzania to run the gauntlet of guns.
The gladiators in this discussion consisted of normal people versus the usual hardliners who believe it is their right (and conservation duty) to kill diminishing populations of free-roaming wildlife already under threat from poaching and habitat loss.
Of course, the thought of killing these sentient icons for fun and ego is abhorrent for those of us who have been in their company. But there are enough nutters and pliable government decision-makers out there to threaten the few that remain.
When trophy hunters have killed every last super tusker, will we look back with regret and yearning as we do with woolly mammoths? Will we also try to genetically re-engineer super tuskers at great expense? Time will tell.
MEANWHILE, our safari clients continue to journey to this great place, savouring amazing encounters and doing their bit to keep Africa wild. Did you know that we now donate a portion of every safari sold to impactful charities? Thank you to every client and future client for helping us do what we do!
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
An ode to the photograph – a simple image empowering us to boost conservation, document rare species, support anti-poaching and keep ecosystems in check.
Through camera trap photographs, we’ve seen genets hitchhiking on the backs of rhinos, documented climate change’s effect on birds, confirmed the existence of the mythical Knysna elephant, discovered lowland bongos in Uganda, studied the behaviour of elusive forest elephants, monitored predators without habituating them to human presence, tracked down poachers, and identified spotted hyena in Gabon’s Batéké Plateau NP and lion in Chad’s Sena Oura NP – both after 20-year absences. Photos from citizen scientists have allowed us to capture the extraordinary movements of Southern Africa’s wild dogs, yellow-billed oxpeckers and southern ground-hornbills, monitor the behaviour of Africa’s rarest bats, and document changes in landscapes and ecosystems over decades. All because nature lovers have taken cameras along for their adventures.
Next week, we reveal the winners of Photographer of the Year 2024. Your photographs have given us glimpses into the continent like never before, shown us intimate rituals, altered our understanding of the natural world, and inspired introspection. Through the lenses of your cameras, you’ve become guardians of nature, your images serving as compelling evidence that inspires research, galvanises public support, and inspires global action to protect the continent’s natural wealth. We can’t wait to celebrate your winning photos with the AG tribe.
In the meantime… Izak Smit explores solutions to challenges facing desert-adapted lions in Namibia, and we share Kingsley Holgate’s journey to the source of the Nile in Nyungwe.
Story 1 https://africageographic.com/stories/nyungwe-to-the-source-of-the-nile/
EXPEDITION NYUNGWE
Kingsley Holgate & his Afrika Odyssey team visited Nyungwe, Rwanda, during their journey to connect protected areas managed by African Parks. Read about their trek to the source of the Nile
Ready to book your next bucket-list safari to Uganda or Tanzania? Check out our options below, and start planning your safari for free here. Let’s get you out into Africa… adventure awaits!
Mountain-gorilla trekking is one of the most exhilarating safari experiences out there. There is no better place to see the gorillas than Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. On this safari, you’ll also seek out the tree-climbing lions of Queen Elizabeth NP, explore the biodiversity of Entebbe Botanical Gardens, and learn about Batwa culture.
The Great Wildebeest Migration in Serengeti NP, Tanzania, is a breathtaking spectacle. This safari offers a front-row seat as vast herds of wildebeest make their way through the open plains of the Serengeti. Witness thrilling river crossings with predation by crocodiles, lions, leopards, and hyenas.
Don’t miss your chance to witness this epic wildlife bonanza.
Big news! We have partnered with Tsavo Trust to save some of Africa’s last remaining tuskers.
Tsavo Trust monitors and conserves the elephant populations of the Tsavo Conservation Area, specifically focusing on tuskers. An estimated 50–100 tuskers remain in Africa, of which at least eight reside in Tsavo. Elephants with tusks that touch the ground are a natural rarity, and they are under constant threat from poachers seeking ivory and trophy hunters actively targeting tuskers (outside of Kenya).
We invite you to support Tsavo Trust by donating to their aerial and ground monitoring teams, who protect these magnificent elephants. Find out more and lend your support here.
WATCH: In this short video, Tsavo Trust’s Nicholas Haller explains why he is so passionate about his job. Tsavo is essential for cross-border migration. The Tanzania-Kenya border region is a pivotal piece of the migration route of elephants and other wildlife from Eastern to Southern Africa. Safeguarding Tsavo means preserving a crucial link in the chain of African wildlife migration. (01:16) Click here to watch
In Namibia’s Kunene region, desert-adapted lions face a dire threat. As natural prey dwindles due to drought and overhunting, these predators are driven to attack livestock, leading to fatal conflicts with humans. Izak Smit highlights the urgent need for alternative conservation strategies and explores solutions to preserve the unique genetic heritage of these iconic species (predator and prey), to secure a sustainable future for Namibia’s wildlife and tourism industry.
By now, many are aware of the plight of predators, including lions, leopards, cheetahs, and hyenas, in human-predator conflict in the Kunene region of Namibia.
The scarcity of natural prey in this area, resulting from drought and hunting, forces these predators to seek alternatives. This desperate search often leads to them being shot in the vicinity of kraals and livestock.
Data gathered by NACSO (Namibian Association of CBNRM Support Organisations) on wildlife populations in the Kunene region indicate the near absence of typical natural prey for lions – especially larger species such as kudu and gemsbok (which are experiencing severe declines in the region). Trends over the last decade underscore the bleak forecast for their survival, with a drastic decline in various animal populations since 2014, including kudu, gemsbok, zebra, springbok, and ostrich. For example, kudu present in Northwest Namibia dropped from 221 in 2014 to 41 in 2022; gemsbok from 1,791 to 309 and springbok from 7,531 to 2,449.
Adding this threat to the formidable challenges these species face to survive (such as fierce and prolonged droughts, poaching, lack of water availability, and human encroachment), it is clear that culling and hunting these species without proper management is not sustainable and constitutes their systemic eradication. Such eradication does not bode well for tourism in the area and is bound to irreversibly erode the attraction value on which the tourism industry depends for survival.
When the last lion passes through the shooting gallery, what will remain? Hunters, when confronting animal-rights activists on social media, are quick to point out that no workable alternatives to trophy hunting are on offer. But when all has been depleted, those self-proclaimed “conservation hunters” will search for other hunting grounds while the conservancies end up devoid of natural tourist attractions. In Namibia, no mechanisms, checks or balances are in place to assess the impacts and long-term effects of destroying “problem animals” by way of culling or trophy hunting. The killing of lion XPL-107 (also known as Mwezi) – allegedly declared a “problem animal” (without the correct notices issued) and then shot during a trophy hunt – is an excellent example of this. XPL-107 was a reproductively successful and important animal in the coastal desert-adapted lion population, and officials made no provision to protect him despite his status being well known.
There are also no workable plans to prevent human-wildlife conflict and the eventual eradication of wildlife. Short-term gratification is sought only in the form of, in my view, the illegal conversion of problem animals into profitable trophies while ignoring the looming, disastrous long-term effects.
Since the lion population in the Kunene region has drastically diminished over the last few years (by 45–60%, according to the 2022 survey), it is only logical that conflict incidences will reduce accordingly.
Only a few years ago, the Huab pride of desert-adapted lions, while on the brink of starvation, were removed from Torra Conservancy and translocated to a wildlife sanctuary. Before this, they had been raiding communal farmsteads, targeting chicken pens and dogs due to the lack of alternative prey. Today, these lions are alive and well, some having been rehabilitated to Timbila Game Reserve and some to Zannier Game Reserve, both in Namibia.
This has now led to discussions on alternatives for killing so-called “problem animals” in conservancies. It can also be said that the natural boom and bust cycles of animal populations in the Northwest/Kunene region also contribute to fluctuations in human-lion conflict. However, humans’ unrealistic “harvesting” of the lion’s natural prey also significantly contributed to this problem. During “boom cycles”, wildlife numbers increase. During “bust cycles” in drought periods, the surplus of weaker genes is weeded out. Animals with stronger genes survive, and are able to pro-create after the drought during the next boom cycle. This is natural selection, through which predators benefit during dry spells. But as the best genes are removed through trophy hunting, this natural cycle becomes compromised, impacting the survival of populations.
Lion XPL107 (Mwezi) was shot and killed in the vicinity of Skeleton Coast National Park
We see increasingly more private game lodges and reserves developed with state-of-the-art infrastructure, fencing and wildlife-management mechanisms. One such entity suggested that where bonafide problem animals become unmanageable in conservancies, they could be translocated to these facilities and managed or rehabilitated. While in their care, these infrastructure-rich lodges could donate a percentage of revenue derived from tourism to the conservancy’s coffers for the duration of the stay until the animal either dies of natural causes or is returned to an alternative natural habitat. This would help solve the conservancy community’s human-wildlife conflict issues and ensure revenue even after removing the animal. It will also enable options like re-introduction, if possible, and complement conservancy conservation efforts.
Only reserves on vast land areas where the species can find a natural equilibrium between prey and predator should be considered for these translocations. Genetic diversity should also be diligently managed and maintained, and management principles acceptable for closed systems should also be maintained. Human interaction other than game drives should be prohibited, allowing predators to function as nature intended.
Until now, conservancies usually received about N$60,000 (about US$3,300) as a once-off payment for the trophy hunting of a desert-adapted male lion. This, while the actual price paid by the hunter client, could go as high as N$1,25–1,5 million (US$68,950–US$82,740). When offsetting this payment against the loss in photo-tourism value over a decade and more, trophy hunting’s benefit to the conservancy becomes a pittance in real terms.
In simple mathematical terms, considering that game drives are conducted by several vehicles several times a day at game lodges, the potential for a good daily income for problem animals hosted on private game reserves is large. Over five years and more, this amount becomes substantial and trumps the once-off revenue earned through trophy hunting. For example, a lodge occupancy averages at 60% for eight months of the year. Two game-viewing vehicles that can seat seven would each carry four passengers (on average) daily. At only N$75 per game drive – with the highlight being to see these animals – this could translate to N$144,000 (US$8,000 per year). With good management and prey availability, such animals easily live to around 14 years of age. If translocated in their prime, it could mean an average lifespan of anything from 5–8 years in such a sanctuary. In the worst-case scenario, that would mean N$720,000–N$1.52 million (US$39,715–US$83,844) in income for the conservancies from such an attraction over 5–8 years.
Through careful management, such a facility could prioritise accommodating problem animals instead of breeding them to meet the optimum carrying capacity. As with rhinos, custodianship agreements could be entered into and maintained.
The upside of this scenario is the conservation value and preservation of valuable genetic material. Considering the disappearance of iconic animals such as desert-adapted lions, this value is far greater than a wall-mounted trophy in a far-off land, which affords the “owner” bragging rights and the hunting organisation huge profits.
Some entities have already raised their hands to take on these problem animals – perhaps this is an action plan we need to roll out ASAP.
In the case of desert-adapted lions, the ideal would be to re-introduce lions to their original habitats once conditions are ideal – for example after prey species are reintroduced during favourable climatic conditions, leading to prey population booms.
Still, reintroduction should only be done in specific habitats if they have been proclaimed and gazetted as legally protected areas. By re-stocking these areas, they can become viable and can be optimised for tourism, generating revenue. Where habitat can be extended, as in the Iona National Park in Angola (managed by African Parks), repopulation from animals that have been rehomed to reserves would also be possible, provided that the custodians follow strict protocols regarding the exposure of such lions. Desert-adapted lions historically roamed Northwest Namibia and arid southern Angola, which are the same habitat type. Populations roamed across the border and can be restored as part of the Transfrontier Park initiative, restoring their historic habitat.
The conservation of desert-adapted lions and other predators in the Kunene region of Namibia is at a critical juncture. The unsustainable practices of trophy hunting and culling problem animals have led to a drastic reduction in these species’ populations, jeopardising the natural balance and the tourism industry that relies on these majestic creatures. It is imperative that we explore and implement alternative solutions, such as the translocation of problem animals to well-managed private game reserves. These facilities can offer a sustainable and ethical way to counter human-wildlife conflict while generating continuous revenue. By prioritising long-term conservation over short-term gains, we can preserve the unique genetic heritage of these species and ensure that future generations can witness the beauty of Namibia’s wildlife. The time for action is now, before it is too late to save these iconic animals.
Once again, the expedition Defender D300s are put through their paces as they tackle narrow, winding, switchback roads that take us through Rwanda’s land of a thousand hills. One moment, we’re winding through rural landscapes of rolling tea plantations and steeply terraced hills growing every crop imaginable; the next, a dense tangle of gigantic trees looms ahead, the road clinging improbably to steep, forested slopes that tumble like huge green waves towards the distant Burundi border. We are heading to Nyungwe National Park.
The excitement grows as we get a message from Nyungwe park manager Protais Niyigaba saying that the calabash ceremony to collect symbolic water from all 22 African Parks-managed areas across the continent will, in the case of Nyungwe, take place at a small spring deep in the rainforest. With today’s modern mapping, this tiny rivulet has been proven to be the furthest and highest source of Africa’s longest river – the Nile.
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
The source of the White Nile was, for centuries, one of the world’s great unsolved mysteries, and we’ve given a chunk of our lives to exploring this historic river, much of it in inflatable boats. We’ve been to the Blue Nile’s source in Ethiopia’s Highlands and the southernmost source of the White Nile in Burundi. We’ve stood at the Speke monument, marking the Lake Victoria source of the Nile and, with good friend Jon Dahl of Nile River Explorers, rafted the rapids below the Bujagali Falls. We’ve stood in awe on the lip of the Murchison Falls near Lake Albert and reached Omdurman in the Republic of Sudan, where the Blue and White Niles meet. We’ve tracked the mighty river’s meandering course past the pyramids, temples and tombs of Sudan and Egypt to reach the two mouths of Damietta and Rosetta on the Mediterranean coast, where the famous Rosetta Stone that unravelled the mysteries of ancient Egyptian hieroglyphics was discovered in 1799. As part of this Afrika Odyssey expedition, finally reaching the furthest and highest source of the White Nile in Nyungwe is an important milestone.
An old forester’s cottage becomes our base camp at the Uwinka visitors centre in the heart of Nyungwe National Park. The African Parks management team is, as always, their smiling, welcoming selves. Protais gives us a colourful background to the impressive conservation and community work that the African Parks team, with the Rwanda Development Board and other partners, has been achieving since the partnership was formed three years ago.
But it seems we’ve got a bit of work to do before getting to the source of the Nile. “You’re going to acclimatise a bit first,” says Protais with a cheeky grin. “Some hill walking to understand the forests better and what’s in them, together with some community interactions and then on the last day, we’ll take you to the Nile’s source.”
Nyungwe National Park turns out to be one of Rwanda’s best-kept secrets – included in Africa Geographic’s ultimate primate safari. Tucked into the southwest corner and with misty views over beautiful Lake Kivu to the Virunga volcanoes in the north, it’s one of the oldest rainforests left in Africa, covering 1,000km² of dense Afromontane forests, interspersed with bamboo-covered slopes, sun-dappled grasslands, tumbling mountain streams and wetlands. Nyungwe, in a word, is magnificent. The forest takes on a liberating primal presence even before you’ve got your walking shoes on.
Endless forest occupies the view towards Lake Kivu
Booted up, carrying rain jackets and armed with sturdy hiking sticks, our too-many-weeks-in-Landies fitness levels are put to the test as senior ranger-guide Claver Ntoyinkima leads us on the first trail – destination, the Ndambarare waterfall. “It’s just a short walk, about seven kilometres there and back,” Claver says impishly. For him, it’s literally a walk in the park, but what he doesn’t mention is the high altitude and that, at times, the trail becomes a near-vertical drop as it twists and turns down steep, thickly forested slopes, putting dodgy knees and creaky muscles to the test. Even super-fit Ross is out of breath by the time we reach the waterfall’s base. It’s spectacularly beautiful and well worth the effort, and we gather water-smoothed pebbles to join the growing pile that will be used to build the end-of-expedition ceremonial isivivane (pile of stones) in a few months. Gazing up into the forest heights above, Kambogo Ildephonse, Nyungwe’s energetic commercial development manager, says cheerfully, “In Rwanda, we have a saying: what goes down must come up! But, we’ll take it easy.”
Both Claver and Kambogo are veritable mines of information. As we puff and pant back up the trail, its clear they love their forest home. They tell us that Nyungwe is the watershed for Africa’s two largest rivers, the Congo and the Nile, providing significant portions of Rwanda’s fresh water. It contains over 1,100 recorded plant species – a single, giant tree can be home to a host of other plants, and exquisite flowering orchids found nowhere else are endemic here – and 85 mammal species, including 13 of Africa’s primates. Some notable primates include the eastern chimpanzee, Ruwenzori black-and-white colobus, silver, owl-Faced, golden, mona and L’Hoest’s monkeys.
Nyungwe is the watershed for Africa’s two largest rivers, the Congo and the Nile
Wiping the condensation from his glasses, Kambogo also tells us that the scientific world is abuzz with the recent discovery of the critically endangered Hills Horseshoe Bat in these forests and that Nyungwe has just been added to the UNESCO World Heritage List, Rwanda’s first site to get this coveted status.
Claver stops to identify every bird call – he’s not called the ‘Bird Man of Nyungwe’ for nothing. There are over 350 bird species in these forests, and Nyungwe is one of Africa’s most important sites for bird conservation. Claver also talks about the positive change since African Parks came on board, the development of more trails and growing tourism, stronger community involvement, and former poachers now helping to conserve the forests by becoming eco-rangers and removing hundreds of snares from the forest. “So much improvement in just three years!” he laughs as a crack of thunder booms overhead.
Claver quickly climbs into his waterproof gear – trousers, poncho, hood and gumboots, looking more like a salmon fisherman. The rest of us get drenched; the deluge is icy cold, our rain jackets are no match, and we’re soaked to the skin in minutes. “It’s not called a rainforest for nothing,” grumbles Kingsley, looking like a water-logged forest troglodyte, slowly putting one muddy size 14 boot in front of the other as we trek soggily back through the dripping trees to the Defenders.
With wet boots, socks and clothes steaming next to the fire in our cosy basecamp cottage, we wolf down plates of Ross’s chicken curry. At last light, the clouds lift to reveal the endless forested hills that make up the eastern escarpment of Africa’s Great Rift Valley and beyond, Lake Kivu shining silver as the stars come out.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? You can plan and book your African Parks safari to Nyungwe National Park and other parks by clicking here.
It’s early to bed – we’re up at 4am the next morning for chimp and colobus trekking and get to see both, first, in the Cyamudongo forest and then later, more chimps of the 70-strong Mayebe community in the shadow of Mt Bigugu, the highest peak in the park, making it a truly ultimate primate safari.
Chimpanzee trekking in Nyungwe
In a valley close to the Nyungwe River, Claver brings us close to a troop of at least 50 Ruwenzori black-and-white colobus monkeys, high up in the canopies and feeding on fresh leaves. Leaping from tree to tree, they truly are the acrobats of Nyungwe, and we learn that this group is part of the largest known colobus troop in the world – more than 500.
A Ruwenzori pied colobus with baby, spotted in the forest canopy
The days are action-packed: lots more trail walking, Rite to Sight and malaria prevention work at the Kitabi Health Centre, and Ross and Claver tackle the 70m-high suspended bridge that adds an incredible aerial experience for visitors to Nyungwe.
Nyungwe’s 70m-high suspension bridge
Like Akagera National Park, Nyungwe has also embraced Rwanda’s community cooperative ideal and once again, we’re amazed at the many innovative business projects that African Parks has helped develop to generate income for neighbouring communities and stimulate local support for conservation. This includes everything from pig farming to public toilets on the main road through the park, to vehicle recovery teams (when trucks miss a tight turn) and even the construction of the new park HQ. The HQ is being built almost entirely by community cooperatives from handmade mudbricks and pit-sawn timber from nearby exotic tree plantations. Theopiste Mushimire, the dynamic lady overseeing the enormous construction site, tells us that when finished, it will be one of the finest forest conservation facilities in the world.
Jes Gruner (African Parks’ regional manager) and Ross take off on a long trek to overnight at the newly built riverside Cyinzobe Camp with its wooden A-frame huts. “It’s the most beautiful forest trail and rustic camp I’ve ever experienced,” Ross says later. “We could hear the sounds of the Kamiranzovu Waterfall all night and all around us, 360° of pristine rainforest and mountains.”
The new riverside Cyinzobe Camp
The surrounding tea plantations are wet, shiny green as we follow bouncy Pierre Ntimemuka (whose surname means ‘God never disappoints’), dodging puddles and running through the rain to the Gisakura School hall, where children have gathered for the judging ceremony of the Wildlife Art competition. With 16 years of experience at Nyungwe, Pierre is the community liaison manager and tells us that one of the critical components of Nyungwe’s community engagement is working with local schools through environmental clubs.
These Wildlife Art competitions form an exciting part of this Afrika Odyssey expedition, but this is different. Instead of the ordinary elephant and rhino on the templates, today is the first time that the art subject is a large chimpanzee, around which the young artists have drawn rainforests, mountains, waterfalls, colobus monkeys and birds like the great blue turaco. The best artists each get a turn with the expedition’s talking stick and read out their messages, like: ‘Conservation is the future, and young people must take responsibility’; ‘Protect these forests – they bring tourism, development, clean air and water for all’; and ‘My message to all is: stand together, stop illegal activities like mining, poaching and tree-cutting – protect our beautiful forest heritage.’
Wildlife art from Gisakura School children
There’s a hushed silence – who will be the ultimate winner? The hall erupts with cheers as Nathan Niyonsaba is called forward –the hot favourite. Nathan then presents Kingsley with a framed portrait of his bearded self on behalf of the school. Unbeknownst to us, the school had found a picture of the ‘Wise Man’, and Nathan had spent days creating the lifelike drawing – it’s a big surprise and adds conviviality to the event!
Kingsley is gifted a self-portrait by the children of Gisakura
Then comes the adventure of getting to the highest and furthest source of the Nile. It’s one of the most picturesque 4×4 tracks in Rwanda that seems to climb forever into the sky, through remote villages, terraced hillsides, potato fields, tea plantations and belts of exotic trees – we’re told they were planted decades ago to protect the Nyungwe rainforests. It’s a race against time – the light is starting to fade. We reach a summit hillside in the far north of the park, leave the Defenders and enter the forest on foot.
The rugged 4×4 track to reach the trail to the source of the Nile
A snake slithers across the trail; park manager Protais jumps back. There’s loads of humour between us and the African Parks team of Protais, Jes, Kambogo, and Pierre.
Finally, we reach it – a small, spongey spring, the trickle of water funnelled into a little pool by a single, broad, green leaf… we’ve reached the furthest source of the White Nile!
Pierre, Kambogo and Protais on the hike to the source of the Nile
A board reads ‘Distance from Egypt – 6,719km’, with the date 2006 and three names: Neil McGregor, Cam McLeay and Garth McIntyre. Kambogo explains that these were the three members of the Ascend the Nile Expedition, who traced the full journey of the Nile from its Mediterranean mouth to this very point and, using GPS, proved beyond doubt that this is the furthest – and highest – source of the White Nile.
Reaching the highest and furthest source of the NilePark manager Protais Niyigaba with Nile water in the expedition calabash
Protais is given the job of adding symbolic water to the calabash. He gives a broad grin as his boots fill with water, and he sinks into the soft mud—everybody roars with laughter.
Heading up the trail
As we leave Nyungwe, winding through countless hairpin bends, heading north towards the next expedition objective of Garamba NP in the DRC, our lasting memories of this pristine green jewel are its custodians—the extraordinary individuals, each with an inspiring story to tell, who are so committed to preserving this ancient, magnificent rainforest for future generations. Nyungwe is in good hands, and we’re privileged to have been embraced by it.
Further reading
Nyungwe National Park is one of Rwanda’s best kept secrets – a magical tract of montane forest bursting with extraordinary biodiversity. Read more about Nyungwe here.
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Photo finalists + BIG news + ivory for sale
Announcing the NEW largest overland mammal migration in the world! No longer can the spectacular Great Wildebeest Migration across the vast Maasai Mara Serengeti ecosystem claim this prestigious title. Is this the biggest wildlife news event of the year?
Those of you lucky enough to have travelled on one of our Great Wildebeest Migration safaris will know what an awe-inspiring experience it is to encounter 1.5 to 2 million wildebeest, zebras and other species plodding or cantering across the plains in pursuit of good grazing, and risking life and limb as they crash across the Mara River. Well, imagine if there were more than THREE times as many of them!
Africa never stops redefining our perspectives and revealing how little we actually know about this glorious continent.
Find out more in our story and video below. Happy reading, and thanks again for spending part of your day with teamAG 🙂
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Wow, wow, wow. Our Finalists gallery is here – and the pics we’ve chosen will take your breath away. That means in only a few days, we’ll announce the winners of Photographer of the Year 2024. Until then… Gallery 1 below features a shot of Africa’s most venomous snake. Do you know what it is?
The boomslang has the most potent venom of any snake in Africa. The amount of venom it requires to kill a human is so small that one can barely see it with the naked eye. But there are seldom more than one or two boomslang bites a year in South Africa – as boomslangs are not always likely to bite unless severely provoked. And, as a back-fanged snake, it has primitive glands and is required to strike multiple times to envenomate its prey – which is the fate suffered by the flap-necked chameleon in our gallery below.
This week, also check out investigative journalist Paul Hilton’s story on the hippo ivory trade – the oft-forgotten plight threatening hippo populations throughout Africa.
This safari takes you to the Big 5 havens of Majete Wildlife Reserve, Liwonde National Park and the rugged wilderness of Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve.
The conservation success stories of these parks are what responsible travel is all about. Come find out for yourself and make a real difference where it counts.
This fantastic combination of walking and vehicle-based game viewing will appeal to experienced safari-goers and novices alike. Expect exceptional wildlife, tracking on foot in the birthplace of the walking safari, scrumptious bush breakfasts and unforgettable sundowners in Zambia’s premier safari destination.
WATCH:The Great Nile Migration of South Sudan
African Parks, in partnership with the Government of the Republic of South Sudan, recently conducted surveys in Boma and Badingilo National Parks to understand wildlife movement and the extent of antelope populations in the region. The results were astonishing: South Sudan is home to the largest overland mammal migration on Earth, estimated at approximately 6 million antelope which move north and east across the country towards Gambella National Park. (06:41) Click here to watch
Here are the Finalists for our 2024 Photographer of the Year! We will announce the overall winner and two runners-up at the beginning of July. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year 2024 is now closed for entries.
Here are the Finalists for our 2024 Photographer of the Year! We will announce the overall winner and two runners-up at the beginning of July. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year 2024 is now closed for entries.
Hippo teeth confiscated by officials in Uganda. Hippos are under threat due to a rise in the demand for ivory
When we think of ivory, elephants come to mind. Yet, hippos are also victims of the relentless ivory trade, with their teeth coveted as a legal and cheaper alternative. Investigative photojournalist Paul Hilton ventured to Uganda, uncovering the grim reality: hippo populations are dwindling due to the soaring demand for ivory, primarily trafficked through Hong Kong.
When we hear the word “ivory”, several factors would likely spring to mind: that ivory is synonymous with elephants, that the industry has decimated elephant populations, and that the trade in their tusks has been highly illegal for decades.
What may be less obvious is that ivory is still greatly prized, particularly in mainland China. Such is the demand it equates to a 23 billion US dollar-a-year industry, with Hong Kong being the primary trafficking portal. What also flies under the radar is that, when it comes to ivory, we aren’t just talking about elephants.
Earlier this year, the spotlight fell on hippos when Hong Kong customs seized a hoard of hippo teeth, which, like the tusks of warthogs and other mammals, are also classed as ivory. While they are used in the same way as elephant ivory, such as in decorative carvings, hippo teeth are not only a legal alternative, they cost far less. They are much easier to come by than elephant ivory.
Buyers believe they are purchasing elephant ivory, resulting in considerable discrepancies in the volume of teeth being declared by importers and exporters and a shocking decline in hippo numbers.
As an investigative photojournalist, I decided to travel to the source of the trade, which brought me to Uganda.
Like many other African countries, Uganda is home to diverse and unique wildlife, including hippopotamuses. Like other fauna-abundant nations, it faces daily challenges with wildlife poaching and illegal trafficking. Rangers are being killed on the frontlines as the last defence for these animals. While the increased scrutiny from rangers means some species numbers are recovering, the hippo (and the lion, due to the big cat bone trade) are not.
A hippo photographed in Uganda
Flying my drone over a bloat (yes, a bloat) of hippos from the banks of the river Nile, I observe how languid they seem, reminding me of whales lazily breaking the water’s surface.
On land, they are at home as in the water. Running up to speeds of 30km per hour, hippos are known for spraying their faeces! As anti-social as that sounds, it’s actually a territory-marking exercise aimed at warding off other hippos while also making for more efficient seed dispersal.
With the hippo’s bad temper, enormous jaws and sharp teeth, each measuring half a meter in length, I find myself recalling the saying, “Never get between the hippo and water.” Knowing that hippos kill more humans than any other African animal, this is good advice. The fact that hippos are vegetarians is of little comfort.
Meanwhile, on land, they seem cumbersome and out of place with their large barrel-shaped bodies weighing in at over one and a half tons. Still, they are a joy to watch, and it is a great shame that this unique animal is threatened with extinction, all because of an insatiable desire, half a world away, for ivory.
Rangers from the Ugandan Wildlife Authority, who I spoke with, say that hippos are being targeted every day.
Michael Keigwin, founder of the Uganda Conservation Foundation, acknowledges that the dangerous trade in hippo teeth has led to a significant decline in their population, with over 50% lost nationally in recent years, driven by the ivory trade for their teeth. “Rangers are working overtime to protect them on land and along the rivers systems and lakes. Organised criminal networks and corruption must be stamped out and the demand stopped”.
Ivory on sale in Hong Kong
In Hong Kong, efforts are underway to choke off the ivory thoroughfare. Due to its strategic location, Hong Kong provides an ideal gateway for the illegal wildlife trade between Africa and various parts of Asia. Wildlife products are frequently smuggled through the South Asia Region to destinations such as mainland China and other Southeast Asian countries, where there remains a high demand for exotic creatures and traditional medicines made from animal parts.
Over the years, millions of consumers have travelled to Hong Kong from mainland China to take advantage of the lower prices of luxury wildlife items, and this influx grew with the mainland’s domestic ivory ban taking effect in January 2018.
Even before China instituted the closure of its domestic ivory markets and ivory carving industry, African hippo ivory was in high demand. Up to 90% of the 771,000 kg of hippo ivory traded internationally since 1975 was imported by Hong Kong. Almost three-quarters of this ivory originated from Uganda and Tanzania, but trade with Malawi, Zambia, and Zimbabwe is, worryingly, also on the rise.
Admittedly, Uganda is the only source country to ban the hippo-teeth industry, but trade volume suggests that supply has shifted to the black market.
Confiscated hippo teeth pictured with an AK47, the weapon of choice for hippo poachers.
A study by the University of Hong Kong’s School of Biological Sciences reveals that since 1975, Hong Kong has processed as much as 90% of the 770 tons of hippo teeth traded worldwide.
Uganda became a signatory to the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) 1991. In just 19 transactions with Hong Kong since then, discrepancies in the declared trade volumes amount to more than 14,000kg of hippo teeth, amounting to some 2,700 individual hippos killed.
Hippo teeth and mammoth ivory on sale in Hong Kong, China. Hong Kong, which has been an international hub for legal and illegal wildlife trade, banned commercial trade in elephant ivory in January 2022. Before the ban, hippo teeth were a common find among the illicit elephant tusks, pangolin scales, and rhino horns intercepted by customs officials at Hong Kong’s ports
Export numbers from Tanzania, the other primary source of hippo teeth, were similarly found to be fudged downward since 1980, with an estimated 3,176kg more teeth exported than the country admitted.
Since Hong Kong’s ban on elephant ivory in December 2021, nothing has been done to protect non-elephant ivory species, such as hippos, walrus, narwhal, warthog and orca. In fact, the only difference now is the elephant trade still flowing through the city under the guise of “ice ivory”, better known as mammoth tusks.
It may be hard to grasp in 2023, but mammoth tusks equate to the flawless diamonds of the ivory trade, given that the species died out 4,000 years ago. Yet, while it’s true that mammoth tusks are still being dug up from the Arctic tundra, perfectly preserved in permafrost, they are also particularly easy to fake by using the ivory of non-mammoth species while charging mammoth prices.
When left in its whole form, the mammoth is easily distinguished from other tusks; however, once carved into trinkets, nobody would be any the wiser. Nevertheless, would a ban on mammoth tusks fix the trade in harvesting all ivory, or would a prohibited tag merely drive the cost up while other species, like hippo, pay the real price?
Some experts believe that mammoth ivory should be banned altogether. “As long as mammoth ivory is helping to keep the ivory trade going, there will always be demand for modern elephant ivory as well, but at the same time, this could fast track these species to extinction”, said paleobiologist Adrian Lister at London’s Natural History Museum.
However, scientists at the University of Hong Kong are working on a way to combat that scenario by developing a rapid test capable of distinguishing, in the first instance, between elephant and mammoth ivory.
Associate Professor David Baker from HKU’s School of Biological Sciences says the new method measures isotopes in a one-gram sample and could return results within a day, much faster than sending samples overseas for age-dating or weeks-long DNA analysis.
While the test, in its current iteration, may not apply to hippos, the survival of the species is heavily dependent on scientific advances like this, coupled with greater awareness. The hippo has been listed by the International Union for Conservation of Nature as vulnerable since 2006, meaning these magnificent, lumbering beasts could be extinct within a century if numbers continue to fall at current rates. Being classed merely as “vulnerable” also means hippos are not afforded the same protection status as “endangered” or “critically endangered” species, such as the elephant.
Hippo ivory on sale in Hong Kong, China. Deepening restrictions on ivory trafficking have led to an increase of the trade-in hippopotamus teeth, wildlife campaigners are warning, with potentially serious effects for a species already listed as “vulnerable”
While CITES was created almost fifty years ago to regulate the wild animal trade, hippopotamus numbers have continued to plunge. In the past 30 years, their population globally has dropped by 30%.
Astrid Andersson, head researcher for the HKU study, says authorities need to act now to stop the international trade in threatened species before they are exposed to unmanageable exploitation levels that could ultimately lead to extinction.
While it was initially encouraging that, at last year’s CITES Conference of the Parties in Panama, 10 African countries proposed to promote the hippopotamus to Appendix I i.e: critically endangered, the motion was overruled for several reasons; among them sub-standard supporting data on continental hippo populations.
This is a perfect example of how critical it is for hippo range states and the international community to cooperate to protect the hippopotamus. Working to bolster law enforcement, boost public awareness, and implement tighter regulations on the import and export of wildlife products is paramount to stamping out the ivory trade. If we act with purpose, perhaps we may even be able to rewind the clock to a time when the numbers of ivory-bearing species are given the chance to rise again and the only revenue expectations come from wildlife safari experiences.
Further reading
The hippopotamus – a large semiaquatic mammal – is one of the most powerful, speedy and feared animals in Africa. Read more about hippos here.
An aerial survey of wildlife in South Sudan, conducted by African Parks and the Government of South Sudan, has revealed that South Sudan is home to the largest land mammal migration on Earth. Each year, 6 million antelope– including white-eared kob, Mongalla gazelle, tiang and reedbuck – migrate across the Boma Badingilo Jonglei Landscape.
The first comprehensive aerial survey of wildlife in South Sudan has been conducted, revealing the largest land mammal migration on Earth. This spectacular phenomenon is referred to as the Great Nile Migration. The survey is part of an ongoing partnership between African Parks and the Government of South Sudan, the objective of which is to ensure the region’s long-term sustainability.
Salva Kiir Mayardit, the President of the Republic of South Sudan, announced the results of the comprehensive aerial survey of the Boma Badingilo Jonglei Landscape (BBJL), which revealed approximately six million antelope, making it the world’s largest land mammal migration. The results of the systematic assessment of wildlife, livestock and human activity show that millions of white-eared kobs, Mongalla gazelles, tiangs and reedbucks migrate across the BBJL each year. Gambella National Park in Ethiopia is a critical component of this ecosystem.
The Great Nile Migration takes place across the Boma Badingilo Jonglei Landscape, which includes Boma and Badingilo National Parks
African Parks conducted the survey in partnership with the South Sudanese Ministry of Wildlife Conservation and Tourism, with support from The Wilderness Project. The findings confirm a remarkable and unmatched wildlife phenomenon across a landscape of immense ecological importance. The survey results, combined with data from the collaring of hundreds of different animals from multiple species, help develop an understanding of the ecosystem, allowing African Parks to develop strategies to ensure they can deliver sustainability for both the wildlife and the people who depend on it.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
Situated in the east of South Sudan, the (BBJL) forms an integral part of a larger 200,000km2 ecosystem that stretches east of the Nile. This immense landscape is critically important to the Sudd Swamps, the largest wetlands in Africa and the second largest in the world.
The estimates, together with confidence intervals, indicate that the BBJL contains the largest land mammal migration on Earth, including white-eared kob (±5,089,421), tiang (±298,776), Mongalla gazelle (±346,273), and Bohor reedbuck (±161,903). Altogether, these four species total ±5,896,373.
White eared kob move across the Boma Badingilo Jonglei Landscape. Between January and June, the kob, tiang and gazelle move north and east from the wetlands on the eastern bank of the White Nile towards Boma National Park and Gambella National Park just across the border in Ethiopia
Many ethnic groups live within the BBJL, including the Dinka, Murle, Anyuak, Jie, Toposa, Nyangatom, Nuer, Mudari, Bari, Lokyoya, Madi, Lolubo, Ari, Lopit, Latuka, Boya, and Didinga. Each of these communities has deep cultural traditions and livelihood activities that are firmly embedded and heavily reliant on wildlife and the vast landscapes they inhabit.
South Sudan’s remarkable natural heritage, a cornerstone of its future prosperity, faces significant vulnerability despite the numbers. Unmanaged exploitation of this resource could trigger the collapse of migratory patterns, ecological integrity, and the livelihoods dependent upon them. A comparison with studies conducted in the 1980s shows that there have been substantial declines in most sedentary species which do not exhibit a migratory pattern, including elephant, warthog, cheetah, hippo and buffalo.
There has been a substantial decline in most sedentary species which do not exhibit a migratory pattern, including elephants
Salva Kiir Mayardit, President of the Republic of South Sudan, says: “As we all know South Sudan is a land rich in biodiversity, boasting some of the most beautiful animals. Our grasslands and protected sites provide a haven for some of the largest populations of antelope on earth. Today, with great pride, I announce the findings of this census to this nation and the international community. It has brought us the position of number one [in the world]. As South Sudan continues to develop we are committed to transforming the wildlife sector into a sustainable tourism industry. To activate
this I call upon the security forces, particularly the Ministry of Wildlife and its partners, to prioritise the training and equipping of wildlife rangers to combat poaching and trafficking of illegal wildlife products in protected areas.”
The survey covered a 122,774km2 contiguous block, encompassing the entire known range of the four main migratory antelope species in the Great Nile Migration. Data from 251 tracking collars placed on large mammals was also integrated into the assessment, providing a holistic understanding of the region’s ecological dynamics, which continues across the boundary of South Sudan into Ethiopia.
This comprehensive Systematic Reconnaissance Survey employed two planes equipped with cameras that captured over 330,000 images throughout the survey period. A team of seven graduates from the University of Juba, trained in specialised software, meticulously analysed 59,718 photos across 64 transects, documenting wildlife presence. Dr Kevin Dunham peer-reviewed the survey results.
A herd of tiang on the move in Boma and Badingilo National Park. As a part of the migration, the herds return to Boma National Park and the vast inland delta known as the Sudd between November and January
Peter Fearnhead, CEO of African Parks, says: “The results of this survey are nothing short of staggering. The astonishing scale of the migration is only equalled by the responsibility to ensure that it survives into the future in an extremely complex landscape. This wildlife and larger ecosystem is the basis for survival for multiple ethnic groupings, which are often in conflict with each other over resources. Successful management of this landscape will only be possible through building trust with and amongst these ethnic groupings. Already, the threats to the system are abundantly clear with commercial poaching of the wildlife at a scale that we have never witnessed before. Working with these local communities to protect this vital ecosystem will help perpetuate this global phenomenon whilst also bringing about stability, safety and security and creating a sustainable future for the people who live in this area – many of whom are still recovering after years of war and disruption. This survey is a testament to the dedication of and invaluable support from the Government of the Republic of South Sudan and the Ministry of Wildlife and Tourism, The Wilderness Project and our committed donors.”
Endangered Nile lechwe also form part of the migration
The sustained operations and infrastructure of Boma and Badingilo National Parks have been made possible by the support of several funders, including Elephant Crisis Fund (ECF), Fondation Segré, Hempel Foundation, Rainforest Trust, Wildlife Conservation Network’s Lion Recovery Fund (LRF), Wyss Foundation, welcoming the European Union as a new strategic donor.
Hundreds of white-eared kob seen from the air
Editorial note
Prior to this declaration of the Great Nile Migration of South Sudan as the largest landmammal migration, it was thought that the Great Migration in the Maasai Mara / Serengeti ecosystem in Tanzania and Kenya was the largest land mammal (or overland) migration in the world. During the Great Migration, between 1.5 and 2 million wildebeest, zebras and other species migrate each year. The prestige of the largestmammal migration in the world still belongs to the Kasanka Bat Migration, during which at least 8 million straw-coloured fruit bats descend into the samps of Kasanka National Park in Zambia between October and December each year.
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Top 105 photos + Africa’s sky islands
This week, I watched the premier of a stirring documentary in a room packed with camo-clad men and women with serious demeanours and kind eyes.
RHINO MAN tells the story of the most important people when it comes to protecting our wild places against poachers – our game rangers. But this is no ordinary tale.
You see, one of the leading figureheads was assassinated by the evil ones during the filming of this important documentary. What’s more, he knew that they were coming for him, and his main concern – as evidenced in the documentary via recorded voice messages, was for his family. Anton Mazimba was killed because he was good at his job – think about that for a moment.
Anton – posthumously awarded ‘Africa’s Best Game Ranger’ by the African Conservation Awards – has become the figurehead for game rangers. Many like him are good at their jobs and passionate about conservation, yet they stare death in the face every day. This is their story.
It was never meant to be like this. A career as a game ranger should be about the love of spending time in the bushveld, learning about nature and celebrating Africa’s awesomeness. And yet here we are – militarised rangers putting their lives on the line.
“Rangers are buying us time, but it’s what we do with that time that matters” Anton Mazimba.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Did you know that the termite mounds of Namaqualand in South Africa have been around for 34,000 years? This makes these mounds the oldest inhabited termite mounds on the planet.
When scientists set out to test why groundwater surrounding Namaqualand is saline, they used carbon dating to see when minerals in the mounds were flushed to groundwater. But their tests revealed much more – that these mounds have been around much longer than the 4,000-year-old mounds from Brazil, previously thought of as Earth’s oldest. This means the Namaqualand termite mounds were there through the end of the Late Stone Age and the transformation from hunter-gathering to nomadic pastoralism. The scientists also found that the mounds act as long-term carbon sinks and sequester carbon dioxide through the leaching of soil to groundwater – a method that carbon-storage companies are spending millions trying to replicate. Though often considered pests in agriculture, termites are ecosystem engineers and occupy an important space in global carbon dynamics.
This week, I am so excited to announce that we have selected the Top 105 photos for Photographer of the Year 2024. Choosing these images was no easy feat, involving days of deliberation between our judges. These four galleries are not to be missed. Plus, a new ecoregion has been proposed for Southern Africa – see more in our story below.
Here are two irresistible trips for those wanting to fully immerse themselves in their surroundings while on safari. Check out our recommendations below and book your dream safari today!
Enjoy this iconic bush and beach safari – the best that South Africa offers.
Greater Kruger’s exceptional Big 5 game viewing will sweep you off your feet. This safari also includes a full-day road trip to the stunning scenery and cultural delights of the Lowveld. Then, head on to vibey Cape Town, her beaches, and the nearby Winelands.
This package is the one chance to flatten three bucket-list items in one epic safari – in one country! From searching for the Big 5 in Akagera NP, to the forests of Nyungwe NP for chimpanzees, and Volcanoes NP for mountain gorillas. What more could you ask for? Aside from rare golden monkeys, the Kigali Genocide Memorial and more – which are also on offer during this safari.
The bushveld winter is pangolin POACHING SEASON. This pangolin was recently poached and kept for days in a mesh wire contraption in a backpack, unable to uncurl and without much ventilation.
Fortunately, he was rescued from the illegal trade and placed in the capable hands of Provet Wildlife Services & Animal Hospital, Limpopo Pangolin Collective, and Umoya Khulula Wildlife Centre, who are all giving him a second chance at life. Thanks to these amazing teams, he is now safe and undergoing rehab before being placed back into the wild where he belongs.
Note that all pangolins are housed at offsite locations for security purposes
WATCH: Mother leopard Olimba proves her ability as a skilled hunter as she stalks a troop of baboons. A master class in stealth and speed, and the circle of life in action. (02:20) Click here to watch
Here are the Top 105 entries in our 2024 Photographer of the Year! We will announce the overall winner and two runners-up at the beginning of July. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Final judging will take place throughout the month of June 2024.
Here are the Top 105 entries in our 2024 Photographer of the Year! We will announce the overall winner and two runners-up at the beginning of July. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Final judging will take place throughout the month of June 2024.
Here are the Top 105 entries in our 2024 Photographer of the Year! We will announce the overall winner and two runners-up at the beginning of July. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on the Photographer of the Year conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Final judging will take place throughout the month of June 2024.
Here are the Top 105 entries in our 2024 Photographer of the Year! We will announce the overall winner and two runners-up at the beginning of July. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Final judging will take place throughout the month of June 2024.
Perched high in the sky amid the clouds in southeast Africa lies a dazzling array of natural wonders. Straddling the borders between Malawi and Mozambique lies a collection of ancient granite mountains that harbour some of the richest biodiversity on the continent. These isolated mountainous habitats are home to rare forests, endemic plants and animals found nowhere else on earth. Now, a group of scientists is proposing that Southern Africa’s threatened ‘sky islands’, consisting of 30 isolated mountains in southern Malawi and northern Mozambique, be declared as Africa’s newest ecoregion.
A long, long time ago (8 to 33 million years ago), large parts of eastern and southern Africa were covered with rainforest. Then came periods of geological activity and continental uprising, and the climate became drier, and rainforests disappeared. Except, that is, for pockets of rainforest on the cooler, wetter slopes of higher mountainous areas. During these periods of isolation, the rainforests became ‘islands’ in effect.
The breaking up and reconnecting of the rainforest across Africa has happened several times since the beginning of time, resulting in these isolated forests on the slopes of mountains becoming reasonably similar to each other, but individually diverse at the same time. These mountain tops have become ‘islands in the sky’. The well-known island phenomenon resulting from these periods of isolation is known as allopatric speciation. This is when a species separates into two separate groups that are isolated, making it impossible for them to breed with one another. They end up diverging into two separate species. (This explains to some degree why islands such as Madagascar have high species richness.)
Now, some of these islands in the sky are getting a new classification – as an ecoregion. Scientists have recently proposed that this new ecoregion in Africa be recognised. An ecoregion is a group of ecosystems with shared geology, evolutionary history, and characteristic species assemblages. A well-known example is the Eastern Arc ecoregion in Tanzania and Kenya. The scientists have proposed that the granitic inselbergs – consisting of an inland archipelago of 30 isolated mountains in southern Malawi and northern Mozambique – are also worthy of this status. They suggest that this ecoregion be referred to as the South East Africa Montane Archipelago (SEAMA).
This name captures why this area is so biologically important. ‘Montane’ refers to the slopes of mountains, and ‘archipelago’ is the collective noun for a cluster of islands. Thus, the ecoregion is made up of isolated mountainous habitats, the conditions of which have resulted in a unique and endemic assemblage of flora and fauna.
SEAMA encompasses 30 granite mountains higher than 1,000m above sea level, with Mount Mabu in Mozambique hosting the largest and Mount Lico the smallest mid-level rainforests in Southern Africa. Their elevations range from 800m to an impressive 3,002m at Mount Mulanje, Southern Africa’s second-tallest freestanding peak. These mountains date back 600-126 million years. Each mountain supports plants and animals that evolved in isolation over millions of years.
“It took decades of international collaboration to gather sufficient evidence to define the ecoregion,” said study leader Professor Julian Bayliss, a Visiting Professor at Oxford Brookes University. More than 100 experts formed part of the surveys. “We documented hundreds of previously undescribed species and researched the geology, climate, and genetic history of the ecosystems,” Bayliss added.
The flora of Mount Mulanje, one of southern Malawi’s sky islands
Why has this ecoregion only gained attention recently? Although studies have been undertaken in the southern Malawi inselbergs for over a century, which identified endemic animals and plants, the inselbergs in northern Mozambique have not had the same level of attention due to political unrest. In the last 20 years, though, a plethora of surveys and studies have shown that there are high levels of overlapping endemism between these sites.
Scientists were amazed to discover over 100 types of trees in Mount Mabu in Mozambique’s forest alone. Epiphytic plants drape branches, ferns carpet the jungle floor and orchids feature amid the foliage. Spotlight surveys also revealed a wealth of nocturnal creatures, from giant forest owls to tiny tree shrews. Herping teams have found frogs, snakes and other reptiles adapted for life in this mountain Eden. The mid-elevation rainforests and biologically unique montane grasslands of these inselbergs support 127 endemic plants, 45 endemic vertebrates (amphibians, reptiles, birds, mammals), 45 invertebrate species (butterflies, freshwater crabs), and two endemic genera of plants and reptile. Many new species have been discovered in the region, too.
The authors define the SEAMA ecoregion as “a range of ancient granitic inselbergs in southern Malawi and northern Mozambique, climatically isolated by topography and trade winds, hosting humid evergreen forest, montane grassland and shrublands notable for their high levels of endemism across multiple taxa.” The definition refers to its climatic envelope, delineated by a break to the north and connections to the coast. The southeast trade winds carry moisture to the mountains of the ecoregion throughout the year, funnelled up through the Mozambique Channel. Still, to the north, outside of the SEAMA, moisture levels drop because these areas are in the “rain shadow” of Madagascar. Further south of the ecoregion, the air is cooler and so holds less moisture, especially in the dry season. So, these islands in the sky are wetter and more humid than the surrounding areas, and this has played a part in why they still support humid evergreen forests and the rich conditions for species diversity and endemicity.
The SEAMA ecoregion, with a core area of 336,200ha, incorporates various Centres of Plant Endemism, several Key Biodiversity Areas, nine Important Bird Areas (IBAs), and eight Important Plant Areas (IPAs). It is an area characterised by high levels of endemism and richness. Sadly, the region’s unique fauna and flora are under threat. Since 2000, SEAMA forests have been lost to deforestation, fire, and agriculture, and at some sites, the forest has been completely felled, such as on Mount Thyolo where the Thyolo alethe (Chamaetylas choloensis), a small, shy, chocolate and grey forest bird, was first described. The Thyolo alethe occurs on some of the other mountains, but it is the ‘canary in the goldmine’. Were the Thyolo alethe to disappear from these forests – as it has from Mount Thyolo – this would signify significant damage to these forest ecosystems. Similarly, several pygmy chameleons are also only found on these inselbergs, and unlike the Thyolo alethe, they cannot fly to new areas once their habitat is lost.
The disappearance of the Thyolo alethe from these sky islands would signify major damage to these new ecoregions
The good news is that if this new ecoregion receives the recognition and support it so clearly deserves, several conservation initiatives in place will benefit from an area-wide approach. There are various Mozambican conservation groups focusing on this area, who are now working with mountain communities to reconcile development needs with biodiversity protection. Successful initiatives include alternative fuel sources to reduce firewood demand, sustainable harvest quotas and tourism incentives. Reforestation programs aim to regrow lost habitats. Some of the study’s co-authors are also involved with Mozambique’s National Network for Community Management of Natural Resources (ReGECom). The Mulanje Mountain Conservation Trust is an organisation operating on the Malawian side of the ecoregion.
By increasing SEAMA’s protected area coverage and spearheading land stewardship, conservationists hope to safeguard its natural legacy for future generations. Let’s hope all these fascinating research findings find their way into international conservation arenas and that there is a swell of support for these weird and wonderful sky islands to continue enchanting future generations.
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Rhino victory + final pics + malaria-free Madikwe
Is this the most important wildlife conservation undertaking of our time?
I have just returned from five days with the African Parks and GKEPF* crews – translocating 32 rhinos from a large fenced paddock in South Africa’s bitterly cold, windswept winter Highveld (frost on my tent) to the sunny Lowveld of the Greater Kruger (see the press release below).
The scale of this project to move 2,000 farmed rhinos (plus their future progeny) into the wild is surely unprecedented, and I was blown away by the logistical, animal welfare, and security complexities of catching and transporting these lumbering giants.
What hit home most for me was that this slick operation is powered by a large team of skilled professionals working under stressful, exhausting conditions. This kinship of cooks to rhino camp masters on horseback, vets to helicopter pilots and truck drivers was powered by absolute passion, dedication and a management team obsessed with detail.
This is a complex project with many layers, risks and implications, and I will attempt to do it justice in a story I am compiling. Stand by for that.
As the early winter safari season unfolds, our clients are experiencing remarkable encounters across this magnificent continent, which I am privileged to call home. We are deeply grateful for your support, as it is your safaris that empower us to share our stories with the world. Safari njema, and thank you.
OK, that’s it from me for this week. Thank you for spending part of your day with us.
*GKEPF – Greater Kruger Environmental Protection Foundation
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
The mighty ancient baobab. From the iconic Adonsonia digitata of sub-Saharan Africa, to the tubby Adonsonia gregorii of Australia, to the tall and regal Adansonia grandidieri and five other species of Madagascar, these trees that hold history in their trunks deserve all the credit they get.
Some can live up to 3,000 years old, and have witnessed the rise and fall of multiple civilisations. They are the centre of entire ecosystems, produce nutritious fruits that nourish hundreds of species in the dry season, and store water and provide shelter for all from birds to bats and elephants. But did you know that ALL baobabs originated from Madagascar? Scientists have found evidence of ancient hybridisation between species, meaning that various species of baobab living together in Madagascar interbred to form the species we see today.
From around 12 million years ago, the seeds of Madagascar’s baobabs floated on debris rafts to the African mainland and all the way across the Indian Ocean to Australia. In Africa, they were spread across the continent by the ancestors of elephants. We are constantly learning more about the fascinating origins of the Tree of Life – spectacular beings that are worth celebrating…
This week was a judging odyssey for our Photographer of the Year 2024 – the last week for entries is always an epic one, with so many inspiring submissions. Check out the THREE galleries filled with stunning photos below. Plus, we’re celebrating African Parks’ successful rewilding of 120 rhinos to Greater Kruger – check out the story below.
Fancy a one-of-a-kind safari to Madikwe Game Reserve in South Africa? This malaria-free Big 5 reserve has it all – from the Big 5 to wild dogs, cheetahs, and brown hyenas.
Madikwe Game Reserve is a prime safari location known for exceptional Big 5 sightings.
This is one of South Africa’s largest reserves and features diverse ecosystems.
It’s no wonder this is one of our most popular safaris!
Experience the bushveld while unlocking your creativity as you join professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls on this art safari. Enjoy game drives, attend art workshops, and hone your wildlife-sketching skills in the best setting possible. Artists of all levels are welcome! Only 1 spot left.
WATCH: Western lowland gorillas, forest elephants, bongos, dwarf crocodiles, huge flocks of grey parrots & green pigeons – and much more. Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the remote northwest of Congo-Brazzaville is covered in forests, rivers, marshes, and swamps. Here, marshy areas rich in minerals and salts attract a plethora of wildlife. Odzala-Kokoua is one of Africa’s oldest national parks and the ideal destination for lowland gorilla trekking. Learn more here. (05:27) Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is underway. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Final judging will take place throughout the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in July 2024.
Here is Gallery 3 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other two galleries, follow the links: Gallery 1 + Gallery 2
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is underway. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Final judging will take place throughout the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in July 2024.
Here is Gallery 2 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other two galleries, follow the links: Gallery 1 + Gallery 3
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is underway. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Final judging will take place throughout the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in July 2024.
Here is Gallery 1 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other two galleries, follow the links: Gallery 2 + Gallery 3
GKEPF vet, Günter Nowak, carefully guides a sedated rhino to a translocation crate
120 southern white rhinos have been successfully translocated to reserves represented by the Greater Kruger Environmental Protection Foundation (GKEPF) in Mpumalanga and Limpopo, South Africa. This translocation is the second move under Rhino Rewild, an African Parks initiative to rewild 2,000 southern white rhinos into secure, protected African areas.
Editorial note about rhino poaching: Information about the presence of rhinos in protected areas comes from within – staff, third-party contractors, pseudo-tourists, relevant government departments, etc. There is no way to prevent poaching syndicates from accessing this information. Successful poaching syndicates find out exactly where in the reserve the target rhino is at any specific time – so that they can get in and out quickly. None of the information in this article is news to the syndicates, and it is also not specific enough for their purposes.
One hundred and twenty southern white rhinos have just been translocated to member reserves of the Greater Kruger Environmental Protection Foundation (GKEPF) in Mpumalanga and Limpopo provinces, South Africa. This boost to the southern white rhino population in the Greater Kruger area is part of African Parks’ Rhino Rewild initiative, an ambitious plan to rewild 2,000 southern white rhinos into secure, protected areas in Africa over the next ten years. This follows the translocation of 40 southern white rhino to Munywana Conservancy in South Africa in May.
GKEPF, established in 2016, is an alliance of nine private reserves, one provincial park, and one national park to service the protection needs of the western and eastern buffers of the Kruger National Park (KNP) and the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier National Park. This translocation comes when poaching rates within GKEPF reserves have significantly declined, indicating the effectiveness of security and anti-poaching measures.
In September 2023, African Parks purchased the world’s largest captive rhino breeding operation from John Hume in a bid to rescue 2,000 southern white rhinos following a failed auction, with one primary objective: to rewild them all to well-managed and secure protected areas, to establish or supplement strategic populations, ultimately helping to de-risk the future of the species.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
Through Rhino Rewild, African Parks is dedicated to bolstering healthy southern white rhino populations in South Africa – and recognises the country’s efforts in rhino conservation for the benefit of the African continent.
Rhinos are darted with tranquilliser from a helicopter
“Moving 120 rhinos under the Rhino Rewild initiative to GKEPF will augment the existing rhino population in the Greater Kruger and ensure that these rhino are fulfilling their role in their natural environment, which has been our vision from the start,” says Peter Fearnhead, CEO of African Parks. “Despite significant pressures, GKEPF members have played a critical role in the conservation of the Greater Kruger landscape, providing an important buffer to the Kruger, and we support their commendable progress in protecting rhino populations in their native range.”
Sharon Haussmann, CEO of GKEPF, says, “The rewilding itself bears testament to the cumulative knowledge, partnerships, and insights of a protracted period of anti-poaching efforts in the Greater Kruger landscape. That the benefits so clearly outweigh the risks presents a significant opportunity for rewarding the efforts of everyone who has remained committed to safeguarding rhino populations amid extremely challenging circumstances over the past 10 to 15 years.”
Collaboration is at the heart of GKEPF’s mandate. While rhinos will not be released into the KNP itself but into private game reserves along its western boundary, the project received consensus, collaboration, and expert inputs from KNP and South African National Parks (SANParks). This strategic placement to private reserves sharing an unfenced border with the KNP strengthens the rhino metapopulation and lays the groundwork for potential future collaboration as the Kruger continues its fight against poaching.
This region of South Africa is an ideal habitat for southern white rhinos. The fertile and water-rich grasslands of the selected release areas are suitable for ensuring optimal rhino health and population growth. Through a decade-long collaborative effort to combat rhino poaching, reserves and stakeholders have developed and shared a wealth of expertise. This has significantly bolstered their ability to proactively and effectively address poaching threats and safeguard the species.
The safety of these translocated rhinos is at the forefront for everyone involved. “The rhino will come in dehorned, which is a very effective way to decrease the poaching risk in this landscape. We’re at a point where this risk is well calculated,” says Markus Hofmeyr, a wildlife vet and Director of the Rhino Recovery Fund. “This will be the first reintroduction of rhinos into this landscape in about 50 years,” he adds.
A rhino is led towards transportation crates
Moving 120 rhinos is an enormous undertaking in every way, and it has taken, as Haussmann explains, “many, many sleepless nights” and extensive funding. African Parks is donating the animals to the reserve, with GKEPF donors contributing to the translocation costs and the subsequent ongoing monitoring of the rhino, a critical element for the project’s long-term success.
A word of thanks from African Parks: The Rob Walton Foundation and the Pershing Square Foundation are the initial funders of Rhino Rewild. Thanks to the OAK Foundation, Rhino Recovery Fund, Hancock Family, Max Planck Institute & Contemplate Wild, and Land Rover Sandton/SMH Group for their support of this translocation to GKEPF.
Günter Nowak and GKEPF CEO Sharon Haussmann inspect the ear of a tranquillised rhino prior to attaching a tracking deviceA rewilded rhino takes it first steps into Greater Kruger from a transport crateA rewilded rhino approaches the water hole inside the boma in Greater Kruger
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Africa’s parrots + epic pics + classic East African safaris
If you live in South Africa or are familiar with South African current affairs, you’ll know of the dire situation concerning the country’s power grid, which is unable to meet the nation’s demand for electricity. This results in scheduled rolling blackouts across the country, known as “load-shedding”. While load-shedding is detrimental to the country’s economy, scientists from the Fitzpatrick Institute have identified its upside: these blackouts allow the unique opportunity to study the impact of artificial light on wildlife across a wide range of habitats and species.
As home ranges of most species can be studied in total darkness during the hours of load-shedding on one evening and bathed in light during the same time the next, there are ample prospects to study the impacts of artificial light on wildlife – from feeding behaviours to species interactions and more. The researchers have challenged the global research community to exploit this opportunity to shed light on how artificial light affects the behaviours of free-ranging animals. Every cloud has a light-diffracted silver lining…
This week, we take a look at the wonders of Africa’s diverse parrot species – see our story below. And don’t miss the drama, colour, splendour and gore of our Photographer of the Year entries for week 12. Brace yourself!
Taryn van Jaarsveld – Editor
Story 1 https://africageographic.com/stories/africas-parrots/
AFRICA’S PARROTS
Africa’s parrots are colourful characters that live in complex social groups. But they are among the most threatened of all bird families. Learn more about these fascinating birds
Looking for an opulent African safari? Look no further! Our safari experts have designed two irresistible adventures that bring you the best East Africa offers. Let’s start planning your luxury African safari today
This eight-day luxury African safari offers an unforgettable introduction to the stunning beauty of Kenya’s diverse landscapes and endangered species. Encounter rare Rothschild’s giraffes up close, find the Big Five, and unwind in luxurious accommodation amidst breathtaking landscapes.
Discover Tanzania’s popular northern safari circuit, including Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti NP, and the idyllic serene beaches of Zanzibar. This safari offers a seamless introduction to the wonders of a Tanzanian bush & beach retreat. Immerse yourself in these iconic locations whilst exploring diverse landscapes and rich Tanzanian culture.
Do you have a friend who wants to go on an African safari? Refer them to Africa Geographic, and you’ll help protect African lion populations.
Here’s how:
If a person you refer to AG books a safari with us, both of you will be added to an AG lion COALITION, and AG will donate $250 towards the satellite collaring of a lion.
Each satellite collar costs $2,500. this means that once the COALITION reaches ten referrals – raising enough to purchase a collar – we finalise that COALITION and start building the next one.
Once that COALITION’s lion has been identified and collared, each COALITION member (including you) receives general updates from the research team about the lion – secure in the knowledge that they have made a decisive contribution to the ongoing survival of Africa’s free-roaming wild lions.
WATCH: A little elephant calf – only a few days old – has had enough. Tired and hungry, the pink-eared calf throws a bushveld tantrum. Take a moment to enjoy a glimpse into a precious moment in the wilderness. (02:11) Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is underway. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Judging will take place throughout the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is underway. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is now closed for entries. Judging will take place throughout the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
Throughout his life, Alex was said to be able to identify 50 different objects, count up to six, and distinguish between seven colours and five shapes. He had a vocabulary of over a hundred words and reacted with indignation when deceived. Reports suggest that he may have understood apologies, the application of pronouns and the concept of “zero”. All of these accomplishments are made more impressive because Alex was a parrot – an African grey parrot, to be precise. Alex and his ilk belong to the order Psittaciformes – one of the world’s most fascinating, intelligent, and threatened bird groupings. The Psittaciformes order encompasses over 400 species belonging to at least 101 genera, including parakeets, macaws, cockatoos, lovebirds, lorikeets and “true parrots”. While South America, Central America and Australasia play host to the greatest diversity, five genera of parrots are found throughout sub-Saharan Africa and on the surrounding islands.
In the wild where they belong, these colourful characters fill forests and savannahs with cheerful voices, constantly communicating with the other members of their complex and sophisticated social groups. So, without further ado, meet the kaleidoscope of African parrots, decorated to the nines in glamorous hues and filled to the brim with personality:
Grey matters: the Psittacus genus
Grey parrots are unequivocally the most famous of Africa’s parrot species, though sadly, their notoriety is based more on their desirability as pets than anything else. However, in the wild, they are found predominantly in the primary and secondary forests of West and Central Africa. Here, they gather in noisy flocks to forage and chatter in the canopies or descend to the clearings for a drink and a quick bite of mineral-rich clay.
A flock of 300 African grey parrots feed on the aquatic plants in a large Baï in Odzala-Kokoua National Park, Congo-Brazzaville
There are two species: the African grey parrot (Psittacus erithacus – also known simply as the grey or Congo grey parrot) and the recently recognised Timneh parrot (Psittacus timneh), which was formerly considered a subspecies. As the name suggests, both species are predominantly charcoal in colour, but the Timneh parrot is darker in colour and sports a maroon tail in contrast to the scarlet feathers of the African grey.
Timneh parrot
Due to the number of grey parrots in captivity, we know that these birds are highly intelligent, not only in speech and cognition but also in demonstrating emotion-based behaviours such as altruism. Less is known about their wild interactions, but there is no question that this intelligence translates to intricate social complexities and intimate bonds between individuals. Their repertoire reportedly includes over 200 different sounds, and they communicate almost constantly with each other while foraging.
Sadly, the wild grey parrot populations have plummeted over the past few decades to just a shadow of their former numbers (see more below). However, there are still places where one can see them in the wild, especially on the West African island of Príncipe (where they are still found in large numbers) and around the baïs of Odzala-Kokoua National Park.
Like their close relatives, the grey parrots, the wild parrots of the Poicephalus genus are endemic to Africa. There are at least eleven species, but avian taxonomy remains a somewhat murky and confused world, so that number is likely to change as future research distinguishes separate species. At present, the Poicephalus group includes:
Cape parrot (P. robustus)
Meyer’s parrot (P. meyeri)
Senegal parrot (P. senegalus)
African orange-bellied parrot (P. rufiventris)
Brown-headed parrot (P. cryptoxanthus)
Red-fronted parrot (P. gulielmi)
Brown-necked parrot (P. fuscicollisfuscicollis)
Grey-headed parrot (P. fuscicollissuahelicus)
Rüppell’s parrot (P. rueppellii)
Yellow-fronted parrot (P. flavifrons)
Niam-Niam parrot (P. crassus)
The complicated knot of parrot taxonomy is perhaps best explained by the case of the Cape parrot – South Africa’s only endemic parrot species. Until 2017, the Cape parrot, the brown-necked parrot and the grey-headed parrot were all considered subspecies of the same species, P. robustus. Research into the differences, including genetic, physical and behavioural, proved the distinction. Consequently, the Cape parrot was included on the Red List with a more conservative conservation status of ‘Vulnerable’.
Those wishing to find the Poicephalus species in the wild will find it a relatively easy task on almost any conventional safari. However, rarer species such as the Cape, Niam-Niam or Senegal parrots will likely require a specialised birding trip in the company of expert guides.
The Cape parrot is South Africa’s only endemic parrot speciesBrown-headed parrot in Kruger National Park, South AfricaMeyer’s parrot at the waterhole in Mashatu Game Reserve, BotswanaAfrican orange-bellied parrot having a drink in Tsavo National Park in KenyaGrey-headed parrot in Kruger National Park, South Africa
A loving cupful of parrots: the Agapornis genus
All nine species of lovebirds are native to Africa. However, their popularity as pets and for aviaries has seen the establishment of feral colonies and hybrid species that exist far outside their natural ranges, including in many parts of the United States.
Members of the Agapornis genus include:
Rosy-faced lovebird (A. roseicollis)
Yellow-collared lovebird (A. personatus)
Fischer’s lovebird (A.fischeri)
Lilian’s lovebird (A.lilianae)
Black-cheeked lovebird (A.nigrigenis)
Black-winged lovebird (A. taranta)
Red-headed lovebird (A. pullarius)
Grey-headed lovebird (A.canus)
Black-collared lovebird (A. swindernianus)
In the wild, most species are geographically separated, so avid birders looking to spot them all will have to travel the length and breadth of the continent. A special trip to the island of Madagascar will also be necessary to find the unique and endemic grey-headed lovebird.
Rosy-faced lovebird in flight in Spitzkoppe, NamibiaYellow-collared lovebirds in Tarangire National Park, TanzaniaLilian’s lovebirds in South Luangwa National Park, ZambiaFischer’s lovebirds in Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
The loneliest parrot: the Psittacula genus
There is only one extant representative of the parakeet genus on mainland Africa: the African rose-ringed parakeet (Psittacula krameri krameri). Its natural range extends from Guinea in West Africa to Uganda and northwards to the Nile Valley.
There is one other naturally-occurring parakeet in the vicinity – the echo parakeet of Mauritius. Sadly, this is the last living parakeet species of the Mascarene Islands. The Réunion parrot, Newton’s parakeet, Mascarene grey parakeet and Seychelles parakeet all became extinct during the 18th century due to human activity.
Rose-ringed parakeet
Islands in the sun: the Coracopsis genus
The fifth and final genus of African parrots: the largely unknown group of vasa parrots of Coracopsis. Though some disparity exists as to exact divisions, there are four confirmed species: the greater vasa parrot (C. vasa) and the lesser vasa parrot (C. nigra), both found in Madagascar, along with the Comoros black parrot (C. sibilans) and the Seychelles black parrot (C. barklyi) of their respective eponymous islands.
The members of the Coracopsis genus have several morphological features that set them apart from other parrot species. Their bodies are truncated, their necks long, their plumage without any bright colouration and the genitalia of the males are entirely unique.
A greater vasa parrot in Tsimanampetsotsa Nature Reserve, Madagascar (left), and a lesser vasa parrot in Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park, Madagascar
A word on the conservation of parrots
Globally, parrots are among the most threatened of all bird families, and while a full treaty on their conservation status is beyond the scope of this article, omitting the reality would be remiss. Their attractive looks, intelligence and propensity for mimicry have made them highly desirable as pets. Even with restrictions, the pet trade remains one of the most significant threats to their future. This is especially true for grey parrots, which have been trapped in their millions, but also for several members of the Poicephalus genus, including the Senegal parrot, one of the most frequently caught species in the wild. Their wild populations are also highly susceptible to habitat loss (primarily due to logging) and traditional medicine trade.
Resources on parrots
Visit the World Parrot Trust to learn more about the dangers facing African parrots and how to help.
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Akagera abundance + striking pics + photo safari
I had an awe-inspiring encounter with a giant elephant bull named Slot in the iconic Mana Pools many years ago.
I was chilling on the open roof rack of my Landy. It was a mild winter afternoon, the mattress was soft, and the plaintive hoots of wood doves had lulled me into a peaceful slumber. I woke when the Landy seemed to sink a few inches. Opening my eyes, I saw a massive tusk above my body and a large eye staring curiously at me. Slot (he had a large ‘key slot’ hole in his right ear) was resting his tusks on the roof rack – hence the sinking feeling. I would love to say that I nonchalantly greeted him and enjoyed this special moment. But in fact, I got the fright of my life and sat bolt upright, almost head-butting Slot. He jerked his head back and shuffled backwards at a rapid rate, stopping about 10 metres away and glared at me in indignation before clapping his ears and ambling off. I enjoyed several close encounters with this gentle giant over the years and was sad to hear of his death in 2012 due to natural causes.
Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools is one of those safari havens that should be on every bucket list – especially if you enjoy close, safe encounters on foot. Well, we have one spot left on an epic safari in late September – prime time for excellent sightings. See below for details. You will be guided by two of Africa’s best – an experienced walking guide and one of the best photographic guides. Safari njema!
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Did you know that giant ground pangolins have been rediscovered in Senegal – where they have not been seen in 24 years? A giant pangolin was recently photographed in Niokolo-Koba National Park by a camera trap, one of 217 set up to survey West African lions. The giant pangolin is the rarest of Africa’s pangolins – those fascinating prehistoric creatures that have been around for 80 million years, that are today the most trafficked animal in the world. Endangered giant pangolins are declining in their limited range in Central and West Africa, due to poaching and habitat loss. With many local extinctions of giant ground pangolins reported in recent years, this sighting is a small glimmer of hope.
For another story of hope, read about Kingsley Holgate’s Afrika Odyssey expedition journey to Akagera NP, Rwanda below. And don’t miss the striking pics in our Photographer of the Year gallery – the competition has now reached fever pitch!
These thrilling Zimbabwe safaris will show you two very different sides of a fascinating and wildlife-rich country. Opt for a photographer-guided safari to Mana Pools, or a bucket-list adventure to Vic Falls – or why not combine the two?
Mana Pools photographic safari – 9 days – From US$10,795
There is only ONE spot left on this safari, where you’ll experience (and photograph) the best Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe, has to offer. You’ll begin your safari in a private concession known for its thrilling wild-dog action, and then spend four days exploring the floodplains on the edge of the mighty Zambezi River. You’ll be personally guided by photographer Villiers Steyn and pro walking guide Carl Nicholson, who will lead you to some epic sightings and photo opportunities. 20–28 September 2024. Contact us to book, and enquire for SADC rates.
This safari offers a jam-packed three days of nonstop action in Africa’s adventure capital – ideal for a short break or as an add-on to another safari. Victoria Falls, one of the world’s Seven Wonders, is a destination well worth ticking off your bucket list. Experience the magic of “the smoke that thunders” in Zimbabwe – whether getting drenched while admiring the view or participating in the many activities on offer here, from white-water rafting, to gorge swinging, helicopter flights, boat cruises, game drives, canoeing and more.
Between 1,000 and 2,000 pangolins are electrocuted in South Africa each year. Pangolins often get caught on the trip-wire fences surrounding protected areas. These electrocutions can cause severe, if not fatal, injuries such as extreme facial swelling and bleeding from the nose and eyes. Thankfully, Provet Animal Hospital is helping to treat those pangolins that fall victim to fences.
These injured pangolins require immediate and aggressive treatment, including fluid therapy, and anti-inflammatory, pain-killer and antibiotic treatment.
If treatment and recovery are successful, rehabilitated pangolins can be released back into the wild. These pangolins are fitted with satellite and radio tags to help monitor and track their progress after release.
Your donation, big or small, will support the team at Provet Animal Hospital with the funds to deal with the seasonal influx of these precious creatures.
Note that all pangolins are housed at offsite locations for security purposes.
WATCH: Longing to explore marvellous Majete Wildlife Reserve, Malawi? Majete is one of Africa’s greatest conservation success stories and a premier Big-5 safari destination. Majete’s Thawale Lodge is a fully-catered lodge with all you’ll need for a comfortable stay. Exploring Majete by vehicle or boat is best – both activities are offered to Thawale guests. Learn more here. (09:56) Click here to watch
It’s been 165 days since we started this conservation, community, and culture-themed journey, and the Afrika Odyssey Expedition has reached its halfway point: park number 11 – Akagera National Park on Rwanda’s eastern border with Tanzania. As a first-night treat, Rwandan-born park manager Ladislas Ndahiriwe organises accommodation for us at the Ruzizi Tented Lodge – a welcome change after many days of hard travel, campfire nosh, and bucket baths.
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
We’re stunned by the beauty of Akagera. At the same time, the rolling green hills and densely wooded valleys remind us of Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park back home in Zululand; it’s the wetlands, numerous lakes, and vast papyrus swamps bordered by the meandering Akagera River that make Akagera one of the most picturesque parks in Africa, rivaling even famous reserves like Sabi Sand. We explore all the way north to the wildlife-rich Kilala Plains. On a narrow road, a big bull elephant refuses to give way and comes thundering towards us, forcing a fast reverse and quick turn of the Defenders onto a sidetrack – straight into a crash of southern white rhino. They’re part of a group of 30 translocated from South Africa in 2021, and several new calves have already been born.
The Afrika Odyssey team spent their first night in Akagera’s luxury safari lodge, Ruzizi Tented Lodge
It’s precisely what we’d hoped to see. At least they will be safe; not a single elephant or rhino has been lost to poachers in Akagera in the past 13 years. Lions and black rhinos have also been reintroduced and are flourishing, and leopards are regularly seen.
That evening, whilst setting up camp on the shores of Lake Shakani, a howling wind blows in, and ice-cold rain hits us sideways – everything’s instantly soaked, even the bedrolls. Somehow, we get the tents up and survive the night, only to be drenched again at sunrise by another sudden storm, sticky red mud coating everything. As our wet kit dries out, a fish eagle gracefully swoops over the lake and catches a monstrous catfish; it’s so big the bird can’t get airborne and flaps and flops around on the surface like a one-winged duck. That sets off a cacophony of mocking calls from other fish eagles perched in trees ringing the water’s edge – we swear we’ve never seen or heard so many of these lovely birds in one place in all our African travels. But to fully understand the extraordinary story of the survival and success of this magnificently beautiful landscape, we need to go back in time.
Drenched while camping on the shores of Lake Shakani
“Thank you – you’ve brought the rains!” laughs Ladislas as he introduces us to his energetic, youthful team and Jes Gruner, African Parks’ regional operations manager. In a meeting room dominated by a massive map of the continent depicting African Parks’ visionary ‘161 strategy’ (of which part of the goal is to directly manage 30 protected areas by 2030, covering over 30 million hectares), Akagera’s story unfolds.
“It hasn’t always been like this,” Ladislas begins. “The aftermath of the 1994 genocide against the Tutsis had a devastating impact, and Akagera was all but abandoned. When the genocide ended, returning refugees sought land for themselves, and the park was overrun with people and some 40,000 head of cattle. So, in 1997, the park was downsized by two-thirds – a pragmatic approach by the Rwandan government, allowing a traumatised population to rebuild their lives while still retaining a huge wildlife area. Even though horrific levels of poaching continued for another decade – the last black rhino was killed in 2007 – there were still viable populations of wildlife. The Rwanda Development Board realised the value of reviving Akagera, but they needed conservation expertise. They’d seen the transformation of Majete Wildlife Reserve in Malawi, so in 2010, they signed a 20-year agreement with African Parks to form the Akagera Management Company.”
Jes takes up the story. “When I arrived here as the first park manager, things were morbid. Everything was broken; the vehicles had no tyres, and the rangers had no structure or support. The park’s 300 lions had all been killed, crop-raiding elephants were causing huge problems, there were snares-snares-snares everywhere, hippo and buffalo poaching were out of control, the lakes were being overfished, and the park had become a smuggling route.”
Poaching and snaring have been almost completely eliminated in the park, thanks to Akagera’s team of rangers
Thirteen years later, Akagera has been completely transformed and is now home to thriving wildlife populations, having grown from fewer than 5,000 animals to 12,000. A well-patrolled 120km fence runs along the western boundary, protecting communities from human-wildlife conflict. Poaching and snaring have almost been eliminated by the 100-strong ranger team, which includes dedicated rhino trackers, marine rangers, and a K9 unit. Two thousand schoolchildren and over 300 local leaders visit Akagera each year as part of the environmental education programme. Tourism has increased 12-fold, and Akagera is rapidly approaching the goal of becoming 100% self-financed.
Akagera’s K9 unit is a force to be reckoned with
“A main reason why Akagera is so successful is the strong support from the Rwandan Development Board,” Jean-Paul Karinganire, the assistant tourism and marketing manager, tells us. “Not just for conservation, but also for marketing Rwanda worldwide as an exciting tourism destination. Responsible government is bringing back the glories of our national parks. With the Big Five success of Akagera’s savannah and wetland environment, the gorillas of Volcanoes National Park and the chimps in the forests of Nyungwe National Park (another African Parks-managed reserve), Rwanda is fast becoming known as a stand-alone ‘Big 7’ destination with great community and cultural activities in a safe and secure country. In addition, tourism creates employment and business opportunities for the locals – visitors need accommodation, transport, food, drink and guides. That all contributes to the upliftment of our community neighbours and helps young people to find work and improve their lives.”
Assistant park manager Jean-Paul Karinganire signs the expedition scrollThe dedicated Akagera team
A hallmark of every African Parks-run protected area we’ve visited is their out-of-the-box thinking regarding community engagement, and Akagera takes this to the next level. “It’s integral to our success; local people must be able to see tangible benefits,” Fiston Ishimwe, the park’s community liaison manager, tells us. “It’s not just about employment; although we now employ 320 permanent staff – 70% of them from adjacent communities. We’ve also embraced the Rwandan concept of working through cooperatives and helped set up several, which generate income for hundreds of people. We also use Rwanda’s monthly Umuganda clean-up days to build goodwill between the park and the people and have a vibrant education and engagement approach. We use radio and TV to reach stakeholders and local sporting events to send a strong conservation and ‘no poaching’ message.”
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? You can plan and book your African Parks safari to Akagera National Park and other parks by clicking here.
At the Gishani Fish Farm, there’s lots of humour as Eline Nyirandagijimana and Mathilde Murebwayire, the delightful aquaculturists who manage this state-of-art facility, try and squeeze broad-shouldered Ross into a too-tight regulation white coat and hunt for a giant pair of sanitised white crocs to fit Kingsley’s size 14 feet. “This project was started because poaching in Akagera’s lakes was decimating the fish species, and malnutrition was a real problem in the communities surrounding the park, so we had to find a solution,” they tell us. “Although the project has only been going for two years, we now produce 1.5 million fingerlings for sale to other fish farmers, have restocked ponds and lakes, and we’re close to reaching our target of producing 60,000 fully grown fish each year that we sell at half the price of beef to local people to improve their diet. Traders are now coming from as far as the DRC to buy our tilapia, and the fish poo is given to women in need as fertiliser for organic vegetable gardens. The demand is so high we have to expand, and best of all, we’ve saved the fish stocks at Akagera National Park!”
Lions and black rhinos are thriving after being reintroduced to Akagera
Fiston tells us that the fish farm has ignited the local economy, and the value of peoples’ land has risen, which means they can apply for larger housing loans. The second project – a cooperative that’s been given sole access to fish Lake Ihema (Akagera’s largest) under strictly controlled conditions – also provides protein free of charge to impoverished families each day, and a regular income for the co-op’s members. “The lake is now oozing fish, and a recent survey showed that over 95% of community members support the park as they see the benefits,” he says happily.
More busy days follow. Hundreds of children at the GS Ndego School create wildlife art to learn about the park, we participate in malaria prevention and Rite to Sight campaigns at the Cyarubare Health Centre and spend a fun afternoon with the Akagera K9 unit. Kenyan-born Boaz Wahika, the cheerful manager, is immensely pleased with their initial success in crossing the pure-breed K9 dogs with local hounds to reduce sleeping sickness caused by the bites of the tsetse fly. “It hasn’t been proven scientifically, but it’s working for us as cases of ‘tryps’ [canine trypanosamiasis/sleeping sickness] and dogs dying have dropped significantly. The less I have to poke an injection into one of my dogs, the happier I am,” Boaz tells us with a broad grin.
Afrika Odyssey’s Anna Holgate hands out malaria-prevention nets to moms at the Cyarubare Health CentreAfrika Odyssey’s Ross Holgate helps with the Rite to Sight campaignSchool children participate in the wildlife art competition
Sitting around the fire at the hilltop Muyumbu campsite a few nights later, the moon and stars above reflect in the eyes of a big herd of passing buffalo as Anna dreams up another of her expeditionary gastronomic delights and Sheelagh tries to decipher pages of notes by the light of a torch. The sounds of the wild surround us: lions roar in the distance, a leopard coughs nearby, the squeal of an elephant on the lakeshore below and frogs croak after the rain. In the distance, the twinkling lights of the surrounding towns and villages remind us that communities and conservation can work together in meaningful ways so that, into the future, they remain the custodians of Akagera.
Akagera has become a haven for elephantsCamping at Muyumbu campsite
Ladislas and Jes laugh and joke as they wade into Lake Shakani to add symbolic Akagera water to the expedition calabash. They take us to collect pebbles from the Krisztian Gyonygi memorial viewpoint for further symbolism. The pebbles clunk into a bag to join others collected from the ten parks already visited – pebbles that will be used to build a ceremonial isivivane (pile of stones) at the end of this Afrika Odyssey in a few months. But there are still 11 destinations before we complete our mission of connecting all 22 African Parks-managed protected areas across this magnificent continent.
Our second-to-last night in Akagera is spent at Karenge Bush Camp, which has endless views over the Kilala Plains, and the hills beyond that mark the border with Tanzania. The following day, we take a narrow 4×4 track to the high Kajumbura viewpoint. An eland is silhouetted on the crest of a hill, and a gentle oribi lies motionless in the alpine-like grasses. Surrounded by wildflowers, we stop for a tailgate lunch of boiled eggs and cold chicken. In the distance is the amoeba-shaped shimmering Lake Rwanyakizinga, and we can see the Akagera River meandering in and out of Lake Mihindi. To the west are the Matumbi Hills, looking like the folds of a great, green blanket, and to the south stretch vast papyrus swamps interspersed with more lakes with names like Gishanju and Kivumba. Towering cumulonimbus thunderheads march like galleons across the landscape – several storms are happening around us, dumping great rain curtains on the valleys below.
The team spent a night at Karenge Bush Camp, one of Akagera’s luxury safari camps
Nosing the Defenders along a thin, winding, muddy track, we’re surrounded by curious Maasai giraffes and at last light, we stop on the shores of Lake Hago. A massive croc lies on the bank, fish eagles call, and pods of hippos grunt and move lazily between the papyrus reeds; scenes so timeless that they seem to wash away the years of hardship that this wild landscape has known and the horrors and suffering of the genocide, to be replaced by a future full of hope for both people and wildlife in this small, densely populated country.
Maasai giraffe greet the expedition team
With its growing tourism numbers, Akagera has become the best-performing park in the African Parks network. It is a success model for other national parks in Central and French-speaking African countries, whose teams come here to see how stability, responsible governance and conservation expertise can create a self-sustaining and profitable wildlife haven.
We leave as a blanket of early morning mist hangs low in the valleys of Akagera. It’s hushed, but there’s a sense of peace, permanence, stability and confidence that the years ahead will only improve.
Then it’s through the ordered chaos of Kigali’s traffic, dodging thousands of bicycles and motorbike taxis and keeping a sharp eye out for Rwanda’s numerous ‘sleeping policemen’ – speed cameras in sneakily camouflaged brown-and-grey towers that sting you $25 a shot – and into the high, forested mountains of the west. The next destination is Nyungwe National Park, near the Burundi and DRC borders.
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
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Giraffes to Iona + penultimate pics + best of Southern Africa
By now you will know that African Parks has started releasing the rhinos purchased from farmer John Hume into the wild. The plan is to release their 2,000 rhinos over 10 years.
Since Hume first started lobbying for international trade in rhino horn, the conservation world has been divided about the likely impact of such a decision on WILD rhino populations. But that is not the focus of my observations today.
This brave and visionary move by African Parks is typical of their way. No fuss, no bragging or drama – get on with the job. Their conservation model is one of boots on the ground and local community benefaction and their success throughout Africa speaks for itself.
And while some human rights extremists continue to hammer what they term ‘fortress conservation’ because it apparently removes some inalienable human right to destroy nature for short-term gain, the African Parks team maintains a laser focus on doing good for Africa’s ecosystems, biodiversity and people. In a world where so much is going horribly wrong, let’s celebrate the successes. A luta continua!
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
This week’s Photographer of the Year galleries (check them out below) include an image of a fascinating and rather bewildered-looking creature: a Zanzibar red colobus monkey. This colobus, found only in Zanzibar, is one of the rarest primates on the planet. But did you know they share a unique characteristic with cows? Both cows and colobus monkeys have stomachs with four chambers for digesting greens. But the monkeys are not able to digest the non-native trees and farming crops they are inevitably attracted to, which has sparked a habit: they eat charcoal (mostly stolen from humans) to settle their indigestion.
The Zanzibar red colobus came close to extinction a few years ago when their population dropped below 2,000. But conservation efforts, including the establishment of Jozani Chwaka Bay National Park, instating communities as shareholders in the park and building speed bumps to prevent cars from colliding with monkeys, helped bolster numbers. Latest estimates put the population at 6,000 (still low). But the monkeys attract 60,000 tourists a year, and Jozani Forest is better protected than ever before as a result. An outstanding example of how conservation of species can have far-reaching benefits to economy, communities and planet.
This week we celebrate another win for Iona National Park in Angola, with more giraffes returning to the park in efforts to restore biodiversity. See more below.
Don’t miss out on our two exclusive safaris – thrilling introductions to Southern Africa’s most coveted destinations. Explore our options below, or better yet, combine the two for a truly unique and unforgettable journey. Click here for free safari planning
Be swept off your feet with wall-to-wall wildlife action on this iconic Southern African safari. You’ll visit Greater Kruger, Cape Town and the Winelands in South Africa; Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park in Botswana; and Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe – for a once-in-a-lifetime adventure.
Immerse yourself in the watery paradise of the Okavango Delta. This lush wilderness, with its grassy floodplains, islands, and water channels, is a masterpiece engineered and maintained by elephants, hippos and termites. Here’s your chance to witness one of the most captivating ecosystems on the planet.
Have you submitted your entries for Photographer of the Year 2024? There is just ONE WEEK LEFT to enter. Visit our website for all you need to know, from how and where to enter, to our competition rules and the epic prizes on offer – including a conservation safari and a lion research collar sponsored in your name. Don’t miss your chance to become the next Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year!
WATCH: Last chance to enter Photographer of the Year 2024! We’re looking for your photos that celebrate Africa and capture the continent’s splendour, from wildlife action and landscapes to African culture and safari experiences. There are some epic prizes up for grabs for our three winners. See more here. (01:29) Click here to watch
A second group of Angolan giraffes, numbering 13, has been successfully relocated to Iona National Park, Angola, as part of an ongoing conservation initiative to restore and enrich the park’s biodiversity. Last year, Angolan giraffes were returned to their historical home after an absence of more than a century, and this second translocation continues this conservation success story.
Seeing these majestic animals making their first steps in their new home was a sight no one will ever forget – a small step for the giraffe but a big step for wildlife conservation in Angola.
When Angolan giraffe returned to Iona National Park in Angola last year, this was only the start of a long-standing commitment to species conservation by the Giraffe Conservation Foundation, African Parks, and the Government of Angola, who had teamed up to bring back Angolan giraffes after a long absence. This week, an additional 13 giraffes made the long journey from central Namibia to Iona National Park in Southwest Angola. The Giraffe Conservation Foundation and African Parks sponsored the epic move. The release of the 13 giraffes was witnessed by President João Lourenço of Angola and a high-level ministerial delegation comprising over 16 ministers, the governor of Angola’s Namibe Province, traditional authorities and other dignitaries.
The giraffes running free in Iona
“The safe arrival of these giraffe to their historic home range is another critical step in restoring Iona National Parks’ ecological equilibrium. Their successful release holds huge potential to positively influence the local tourism industry. This, in turn, could generate jobs in tourism-related services, increase income for local communities, and raise awareness about the importance of preserving biodiversity”, commented Augusto Archer de Sousa Mangueira, the governor of Namibe Province.
After their capture in Namibia, the giraffe travelled over 1,300km in a journey that lasted over 48 hours before their successful release in Iona National Park, Angola, on Saturday, 18 May 2024. Last year’s translocation was successful with the introduced giraffe adapting well to their new home. To bolster this small population and help with their long-term viability, it was decided to bring in additional giraffes to help further restore the region’s ecological processes. Giraffes are important landscape gardeners who shape vegetation through browsing and dispersal of seeds due to their selective feeding habits.
The giraffe capture boma
“Bringing Angolan giraffe back to Iona National Park in Angola last year was an amazing achievement and has the makings of a true conservation success story. By reintroducing giraffe to their historical range, we re-establish their range, ensure their long-term survival and contribute to restoring the ecological balance in the region. We are excited to continue our collaboration with African Parks and the Angolan government who are great partners in these conservation efforts. Together, we can make a real difference”, said Stephanie Fennessy, executive director and co-founder of the Giraffe Conservation Foundation.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
Giraffes head off into their new home
Pedro Monterroso, park manager at Iona National Park, said: “Last year’s reintroduction of giraffe to Iona National Park was a pivotal moment in the park’s history, signifying a major milestone in the ongoing commitment of African Parks and the Ministry of Environment to restore Iona National Park towards ecological, social and financial sustainability. Today, with the release of another 13 animals, I am thrilled to witness the ongoing restoration of the park’s biodiversity. Strong partnership is essential for successful conservation and we remain grateful to the Angolan Government and the Giraffe Conservation Foundation for their unwavering support and collaboration.”
Whilst giraffe populations in general have declined in the past 35 years due to habitat loss, poaching, and other human-induced factors, recent targeted giraffe conservation efforts have seen positive effects, and several populations have started to rebound. Conserving and protecting giraffes is crucial for their survival and maintaining the balance and functionality of Africa’s ecosystems. Translocations are essential and impactful tools for conservation, and in particular, this cross-border move is a testament to the commitment of conservation by many players in Africa who work tirelessly for the protection of Africa’s unique biodiversity.
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
During a recent stroll on a nearby wooded hillside I took a photo of my foot – to determine my GPS coordinates courtesy of the photo metadata stored by my iPhone. When I swiped up to view the location metadata I was prompted to research Jack Russel terriers. My split-second confusion was replaced by a chill that ran down my spine. One of our Jackies had walked by when I took the photo – as evidenced by a white blur in the bottom left corner of my photo. Just think about that.
Artificial Intelligence (AI) is creeping into our lives at a rapid rate – like it or not. Some you know about (using Chat GPT to write your speech, for example), and some is coded into stuff you use every day. Some of the coding is to improve your product experience, but most is to benefit the relevant product manufacturer.
AI has massive implications for wildlife conservation. It will improve our ability to gather and process relevant data, for example population numbers, habitat health, and surveillance networks, and so better focus our efforts. AI will also weaponise poaching syndicates to do their thing better. To further illustrate my point, consider drones – a fun flying camera for some and lethal killing machine for others.
Tiger by the tail …
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
We know that elephants are great communicators. They have specific names for one another and transmit rumbles that connect them over large distances. They bond by placing their trunks in each other’s mouths – to comfort and reassure. Plus, they have elaborate greeting rituals – but not much is known about what the various gestures in their greetings mean. But a recent study has revealed a new level of intent and consideration in their greetings.
The researchers found that elephants greet intentionally and adapt their greetings to what other elephants are doing. For example, if a companion were not paying attention, the elephant would capture their attention by using touch before greeting. Or, if attention were already held, they’d revert to visual greetings only. Not a species for airs and graces, elephants only greet the fellows they know and like (and ignore those they don’t). And the most common form of greeting? Waving. With ears, that is. The combination of ear flapping and rumbling was the most frequently used greeting recorded by researchers. We are still learning to unpack the complex social behaviours of elephants, and every study unveils something a little more fascinating about these sentient beings.
This week, African Parks shared the news that they have rewilded the first 40 rhinos acquired from their purchase of John Hume’s Platinum Rhino operation – see below. It’s been another bumper week of Photographer of the Year, with two galleries filled with action-packed photos. Plus, Kingsley Holgate and his Afrika Odyssey team have shared the ups and downs of their expedition from Malawi to Rwanda, where their journey takes them to this fascinating country’s protected areas managed by African Parks. More below.
Explore northern Botswana’s ecosystems – Moremi, Khwai, Savute and the Chobe River waterfront – on a fully catered mobile safari. Beginning in Maun and ending in Kasane, and led by experienced guides, you’ll track big cats and wild dogs, and meander along the Chobe River.
The backdrop of this safari is one of Africa’s most hauntingly beautiful landscapes. From the stark figures of ancient baobabs, to elephants, habituated meerkats and zebra migrations, this tour of the world-famous salt pans in Botswana – Makgadikgadi Pan and Nxai Pan – goes far beyond the average “Big 5” safari.
The Kruger National Park region has lost one of it’s emerging tuskers: Ntshembo.
With only a few big tuskers still present in Kruger, it is critical to conserve remaining bulls known to have these large-tusk genes. Ntshembo (translated to Believe) was recently spotted with an infected wound, and teams from Elephants Alive decided to assist this magnificent bull. Ntshembo was in his prime breeding years, and so the vet team, led by specialist vet Dr Cobus Raath, set out to do all they could to try to save him, and allow him the chance to pass his large-tusk genes on to future generations.
When the vet team assessed the severity of the injuries, they found that Ntshembo had suffered severe nerve damage. This damage prevented Ntshembo from eating. Ntshembo was also most likely deaf in his right ear and blind in his right eye, and had lost significant condition – all likely due to having suffered this injury months before being spotted. Based on decades of experience working with injured wildlife, the vet team took the difficult but informed decision to end this exceptional bull’s suffering.
Elephants Alive is still working to help elephants like Ntshembo, and has a Fast Action fund to help in instances like this. They need your support to give elephants the best chance of survival. Please consider donating here.
WATCH: Kafue National Park is one of Africa’s largest protected areas, and is situated in the world’s largest transfrontier conservation area, the Kavango Zambezi (KAZA TFCA). The park hosts a critical population of savannah wildlife. This beautiful short film was created to highlight the importance of Kafue as a wildlife destination, and its potential to deliver revenue and provide employment to local communities. (03:13) Click here to watch
African Parks has donated 40 southern white rhino to Munywana Conservancy in South Africa – the first step of a continent-wide initiative to rewild 2,000 rhinos, purchased from John Hume’s rhino breeding operation
Editorial note about rhino poaching: Information about the presence of rhinos in protected areas comes from within – staff, third-party contractors, pseudo-tourists, relevant government departments, etc. There is no way to prevent poaching syndicates from accessing this information. Successful poaching syndicates find out exactly where in the reserve the target rhino is at any specific time – so that they can get in and out quickly. None of the information in this article is news to the syndicates, and it is also not specific enough for their purposes.
African Parks has officially launched the rewilding phase of ‘Rhino Rewild’, an ambitious plan to rewild 2,000 southern white rhinos into secure protected areas in Africa over the next ten years. In the first move of this continent-wide effort, 40 southern white rhinos were donated to the Munywana Conservancy in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa, to support the conservancy’s successful conservation and community efforts.
The white rhinos will bolster Munywana Conservancy’s current rhino population. This marks the first translocation under ‘Rhino Rewild,’ an African Parks initiative to rewild 2,000 southern white rhinos, purchased from John Hume’s Platinum Rhino farm, into secure protected areas in Africa.
The Munywana Conservancy has a historical foundation: in 2007, 9,085 hectares of land were returned to its ancestral owners, the Makhasa and Mnqobokazi communities, as part of South Africa’s land restitution process. Both communities requested that the land continue to be kept under conservation. Through this legacy, the Munywana Conservancy, now a 29,866-hectare reserve, is upheld through a collaboration of community and private landowners that include the Makhasa Community Trust, the Mnqobokazi Community Trust, &Beyond Phinda and Zuka Private Game Reserves.
“We are extremely pleased to receive these 40 rhino from African Parks to supplement the current population of white rhinos at our community conservancy,” says Thokozani Mlambo, chairperson of the Makhasa Trust, one of the four primary shareholders of the Munywana Conservancy. “We see this as recognition of the important role that community-owned land plays in conservation, and we are proud to be collaborating in such a significant partnership to rewild rhinos across our continent.”
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
The Munywana Conservancy offers a secure environment to support the rewilding of southern white rhino. With this move, Munywana’s current rhino population will be bolstered, enhancing genetic diversity, aiding future rhino translocations to other locations, and supporting tourism – a key driver of the local economy.
In September 2023, African Parks purchased the world’s largest captive rhino breeding operation – John Hume’s Platinum Rhino farm – which was facing financial collapse. The initiative’s main objective is to rewild all the rhinos to well-managed and secure protected areas, thereby establishing or supplementing strategic populations and ultimately helping to de-risk the species’ future.
“I am especially pleased to see that the very first translocation of some of the 2,000 white rhinos are going to this important landscape within South Africa, which is a flagship partnership in which communities are making a significant contribution to the conservation of our natural heritage,” says Barbara Creecy, South Africa’s Minister of Forestry, Fisheries and Environment. “On behalf of the Government of South Africa, we were very supportive of African Parks’ plan to purchase and rewild these rhino and remain a key partner in providing technical and scientific advice, and the support needed to carry out this conservation solution in South Africa and on the African continent.”
A southern-white rhino calf, one of the rhinos bred on John Hume’s Platinum Rhino farm
To achieve a successful outcome of this translocation, the animals’ body condition and parasite adaptation will be closely monitored as they adjust to their new environment. In addition, the conservancy will implement its intensive security measures to ensure the safety of the 40 dehorned rhino.
The capture team gently leads an anesthetized rhino to the crate for transport
“We believe that both African Parks and the Munywana have the same ethos and guiding principles when it comes to conservation, and in that spirit the Munywana has gladly accepted this donation, enabling these rhino to commence the process of becoming fully wild and free roaming,” says Dale Wepener, Munywana warden and conservation manager.
This first translocation was carried out by African Parks, &Beyond Phinda, Conservation Solutions and WeWild Africa, and the financial support for the move was provided by the Aspinall Foundation and the Wildlife Emergency Fund. “We recognise the magnitude and logistical feat of moving 2,000 rhino. This is just the beginning of a long-term partnership with African Parks where we can play our part in making a tangible contribution to the future of the southern white rhino in Africa,” says Damian Aspinall, chairperson of WeWild Africa.
The southern white rhino is under extreme pressure due to poaching and habitat loss, hence the need for well-protected areas to allow them to thrive. While southern white rhinos reached an all-time low of 30 to 40 animals in the 1930s, effective conservation measures increased the population to approximately 20,000 individuals by 2012. However, the dramatic rise in poaching has decreased their numbers to approximately 16,000 today. White rhinos are mega-herbivores that are important in shaping savannahs, which store approximately 30% of the world’s terrestrial carbon. Where rhinos are present, there is an increase in both flora and fauna, and thriving wild rhino populations are indicators of ecosystem renewal.
Rhinos being released into bomas as part of the habituation process in Munywana Conservancy
“The crux of the solution, and the ultimate success for rewilding these 2,000 rhino, lies in the existence of safe, well-protected and effectively managed areas across Africa, of which the Munywana Conservancy is an excellent example,” says Peter Fearnhead, CEO of African Parks, an organisation that manages 22 protected areas in partnership with governments and communities in 12 countries. “Rhino Rewild is one of our most ambitious undertakings to date, where together with a multitude of governmental, conservation and community organisations, and key funders, we have the rare opportunity to help de-risk a species, and in the process to help secure some of the most critical conservation areas not just in Africa, but in the world.”
The Rob Walton Foundation, the Pershing Square Foundation, WeWild Africa, the Aspinall Foundation, and the Wildlife Emergency Fund are among Rhino Rewild’s initial funders.
The scratched, mud-splattered map printed on the bonnet of the big Defender 130 tells the story of our quest to link all 22 African Parks-managed areas and the communities they support in 12 countries across the continent. Starting at Iona National Park in Angola and with ten protected areas now completed, spirits are high for the start of chapter two of this legacy adventure. Our next and equally challenging goal is to reach five national parks in Rwanda, DRC and South Sudan.
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
This is our 41st expedition, and its name, Afrika Odyssey, is particularly significant. It’s a revival of the name given to the first geographic and humanitarian expedition the Holgate family undertook 30 years ago. In 1993-4, Kingsley, Ross and the team back then became the first South African adventurers in decades to travel the length of Africa from the Cape of Good Hope to Alexandria in Egypt along the continent’s rivers and lakes. The expedition’s logo is also a modern redraw of that original journey’s insignia, with twin elephants representing Kingsley’s favourite animal, and our partnership with African Parks and this journey’s mission to discover powerful, positive stories of hope for Africa’s wild spaces and neighbouring communities.
Heading north, the kilometres speed by as the Zen of Travel takes us along roads less travelled. The heavily loaded, long-wheel-base Defenders are made for this type of work as we zigzag along the western wall of Africa’s Great Rift Valley to overnight at one of our favourite spots in Tanzania. Lake Shore Lodge is owned by good friends Chris and Lou Horsefall, who some 20 years ago, built this remote home-from-home paradise with forever views over Lake Tanganyika, Africa’s longest and deepest freshwater lake. It’s a grand reunion and we’d love to stay longer but the race to Rwanda is on.
The shore villages of Lake Tanganyika
By now, we should know that ‘Mama Afrika owns the time’. Crossing Katavi National Park, with its estivating crocs, congested hippo pools and massive buffalo herds, we’re brought up short by a line of stationery vehicles. On a narrow, upward bend ahead, a 30-tonne container truck is bogged down in thick sand, and a rickety, overloaded lorry carrying timber has got stuck trying to negotiate its way around.
The road is properly blocked – no way through. Kingsley’s son Ross goes scouting for a solution. “Be careful of the lions!” Kingsley shouts after him as, flapping at tsetse flies, Ross disappears into the miombo woodlands. By this time, more trucks and cars had joined the jam on both sides, including a busload of cheerful nuns and quite a crowd gathering, chattering loudly in Swahili. A helpful driver produces a heavy chain and cable and suggests harnessing two strong lorries to pull the container truck backwards and out of the way. But the driver of the stricken truck is nowhere to be found – it seems he’s gone AWOL, along with the keys. We could be stuck here for hours if not days.
Sweating profusely, Ross reappears. “If we can winch the Defenders off the road and over this steep bank, we can gun it up the hill through the trees – there’s a path at the top that will take us around the stuck trucks and back onto the road north.” Wrapping a wide strap around a tree, he attaches the winch cable and with a bit of first-gear, low-ratio and Ross yelling instructions above the groan of the winch, ‘Moyo’ (means ‘heart’ in Swahili), the first Defender inches forward. But the near-vertical, soft bank crumbles, and she starts going over – two wheels off the ground. Shouts of alarm, we race to help – a couple of beefy truck drivers included – and jump onto the running boards to keep the Defender down. A bit more winching, a brief stop to bring in the cable…everyone breathes an audible sigh of relief as foot-flat and with stones and dust flying, Moyo powers up through gaps in the trees to reach the hill’s summit.
Taking a shortcut to get around a stranded truck blocking the road
The crowd is even more excited: will the second Defender make it? There’s much shouting and helpful advice as we take a different approach this time. Behind the wheel of ‘Isibindi’ (‘courage’ in Zulu), Kingsley follows Ross’ hand signals, unsure if they are instructions or Ross doing a tsetse fly-swat dance. Bonnet in the air – the angle is crazy – the tree the cable is attached to creaks ominously and starts to lean. In double-quick time, the Beard accelerates over the bank and reaches the top. The truck drivers and nuns clap and whistle to farewell shouts of ‘Safari njema!’ (Swahili for ‘Have a safe journey’), we bump along the rough hilltop path and back onto the dirt road.
Skirting Burundi on the eastern side of the Rift, we take a lonely track along the escarpment, winding through pristine natural forests with endless views. As night fell, we camped in a grassy clearing amongst the trees. It’s spectacularly serene: not another human being in sight, the sky filled with stars, a serenade of frogs and night jars and a pot of chicken stew bubbling on the coals. It’s these ‘freedom moments’ that we love and with enamel mugs in hand, we laugh about the escapades of the day, discuss the route ahead and get to talking about the value of wild camping to an expedition. You’d think they would’ve lost their novelty after literally thousands of nights over many years, but each is still special and a critical part of every journey. We love the simplicity of it all: no cellphone signal, a small circle of light from the campfire, our tents silhouetted by flickering flames, my treasured tin bucket from Macedonia heating ‘small bath’ water, the sounds of an African night permeating the still air, and the world and its problems light years away. Nobody knows where we are; it’s a liberating feeling.
During the night, we’re woken by the crashing thunder and lightning of a massive tropical storm – the first of the season. The rain buckets down in typical East African intensity. Still, by sunrise, the skies are clear, and we’re serenaded by the mournful whooping of ground hornbills in the dripping forest, their melodies echoing off granite-strewn ridges.
400km of muddy roads later, it’s near-dark by the time we set up camp on a windswept, thunderous and lightning-lit ridge overlooking the hills of Rwanda. Memory lane for us – we’d first tried to cross this border in 1994 whilst on the first Afrika Odyssey expedition 30 years ago but were turned back because of the Rwandan Genocide at that time, in which nearly one million ethnic Tutsi and moderate Hutu were killed as the international community and UN peacekeepers stood by. But that’s history now, and this time, Rwanda is a positive story about a beautiful, proud country that’s rebounded from its past and embraced conservation and wildlife as part of its incredible revival.
It’s not for naught that Rwanda is known as the ‘land of a thousand hills’
The rain lashes down again as we cross the swollen Akagera River to reach the Rusumo Border Post. Beneath a framed photograph of President Paul Kagame, our passports are entry-stamped with great enthusiasm. “Welcome to Rwanda – it’s your home!” says the smiling immigration official, who also reminds us to drive on the right. The sun comes out to welcome us as we zigzag along tarred roads with not a single pothole, through spotless towns and villages with pretty houses decorated in blue-and-white designs, dodging hundreds of ladened bicycles and motorbike taxis. Every square inch is cultivated: tea and banana plantations, emerald-green rice paddies, lush fields of cabbages, cassava, tomatoes, onions, avos, mangos, coffee, and patchworks of steeply terraced red earth and green fields on every hillside and valley.
A Rwandan tea picker along the road to AkageraLong-horned Ankole cattleBanana bicycles are a common sight along the roads of Rwanda
It’s a Sunday, and smartly dressed churchgoers throng the pedestrian walkways and landscaped public parks. We see billboards urging the Rwandese to care for their environment. There’s not a scrap of litter; plastic bags are banned in this small, populous country, and men with spades and women with brooms in yellow reflective jackets are hard at work cleaning the deep drainage ditches on the sides of the road. Driving towards Akagera National Park, we pass genocide memorials with big signs that read: ‘Never Again’.
Kingsley takes a moment at a genocide memorial in Rwanda
Ladislas Ndahiriwe, Akagera’s park manager, meets us at their community centre, which has busy poultry, vegetable, and craft projects. It is an educational point for school children, teachers and community members, from where over 2,000 kids visit the park annually for free.
School children welcome the Afrika Odyssey team with smiles
What a welcome! Foot-stomping, drumming, horn blowing, singing and energetic, rhythmic dancing by the Nyange cultural dance group – one of Akagera’s community initiatives. Dressed in vibrant yellow, blue and white traditional cloth, they all sign the expedition’s Scroll for Conservation with hand-scripted, heartfelt messages.
Akagera NP park manager Ladislas Ndahiriwe signs the Scroll for Conservation
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? You can plan and book your African Parks safari to Akagera National Park and other parks by clicking here.
Reaching Akagera National Park, East Africa’s largest protected wetland and a conservation miracle that’s home to Rwanda’s Big 5, is a yardstick for our Afrika Odyssey expedition. It’s park number 11 – the halfway point of this mission to connect all 22 African Parks-managed areas in 12 countries across Africa. From the welcoming smiles and positive energy already evident, we sense we’ll not be disappointed. The journey continues …
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
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Odzala-Kokoua sojourn + magnificent pics
And just when you thought things couldn’t get more bizarre… Did you know that deforestation could be linked to the spread of novel coronaviruses? And in one case, the international demand for tobacco is the culprit.
Many studies show how forests form barriers between humans and disease. Now, a new study says tobacco farmers who all but depleted Raphia farinifera palms in Uganda’s Budongo Forest Reserve have inadvertently exposed primates and other wildlife to virus-riddled bat guano. Chimpanzees, reliant on the palms for minerals, turned to feeding on bat droppings after the palms disappeared. Black and white colobus monkeys and red duikers also started feeding on the guano – which scientists found contained 27 viruses, including a novel betacoronavirus. When ecosystems are disrupted, so are relationships between species – and the risk of pathogens jumping from animals to humans increases.
The simplest daily choices we make can have extreme, unintended consequences.
This week, we share Simon’s report on his incredible trip to Odzala-Kokoua NP – see below. Plus, we have a bumper load of Photographer of the Year entries for you to see – check out our two galleries.
This walking safari tracks the wise old elephant herds as they follow the Galana River through Tsavo National Park, Kenya. Sharing the elephants’ home on equal footing and encountering the famous maneless lions, gerenuks and hirolas of Tsavo will supersede any previous game-viewing experiences you’ve had. Stay in beautiful camps harking back to a bygone era, and explore the surroundings on game drives. The perfect balance between comfort and adventure.
Experience the Great Wildebeest Migration in Kenya with this bucket-list safari. Stay at Sentinel Mara Camp, perched on the high banks of the Mara River in a cool riverine forest, and explore Musiara Marsh and Paradise Plains – known for their excellent big-cat sightings. Settle into your front-row seats for the greatest show on Earth, embrace the drama of the Mara River crossings, and enjoy the expertise of excellent Maasai guides.
Searching for more safari inspiration? Check out our wide variety ofsafari ideas here
Collaring Kruger’s lions
Ten lionesses in Kruger National Park will soon become part of an exciting project aiming to provide insight into how lion pride behaviour differs in fenced and open systems. In August, teams from Nelson Mandela University (NMU) and the Southern African Conservation Trust (SACT) will set out to fit satellite-tracking collars on the lionesses.
This exciting project aims to compare various behaviours between open and fenced systems by:
Testing the effect of pride strength on territory size;
Measuring territory infringement;
Testing the pride’s aggressive response during territory infringements;
Comparing stress levels of prides; and
Comparing the ratio of prey-resource availability to home-range size.
You can help in this important study by sponsoring a collar in full or donating any amount – large or small – to support this critical conservation project. Learn more here.
WATCH: Experience the magic of a safari in May. Explore Southern Africa’s vibrant wildlife with fewer crowds, Mozambique’s pristine beaches and Seychelles’ crystal-clear waters. Don’t miss the Maasai Mara’s secret season, and marvel at the majestic Victoria Falls in full glory. (02:30) Click here to watch
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
Early mornings at Odzala-Kokoua National Park’s Imbalanga Baï were usually misty, and we sipped Ethiopian coffee and snacked on delicious French toast and pineapple slices as the clearing slowly revealed itself. Exquisite red-fronted duikers grazed quietly beneath us, and curious Guereza colobus peered into our elevated lookout from overhanging canopies while African grey parrots wolf-whistled overhead. And then Hartlaub’s ducks (a lifer for me) winged in to work the baï, and dashing white-crested hornbills ghosted through the canopy. I had found paradise!
I had heard stories of the arduous journey heading north from Brazzaville to the dense equatorial rainforest of Odzala-Kokoua National Park – about a muddy, potholed, 800km road trip lasting a few days. But, I was told the journey is worth every hour because the wildlife experience once you get there is off the charts.
And so I was a tad wary and contemplative about the journey ahead as I munched an early breakfast of eggs, bacon, fresh fruit, and a gigantic croissant washed down with strong aromatic coffee. My view from the elevated Brazzaville Radisson Blu terrace was impressive – over the wide Congo River towards Kinshasa on the opposite bank. Kinshasa is, of course, the capital of the neighbouring Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) – not to be confused with Congo-Brazzaville, my choice for this safari.
And so my Africa Geographic colleague Brendan and I headed out for the arduous road trip, courtesy of an African Parks driver. Imagine our surprise when, after navigating the backstreets of downtown Brazza, we emerged onto a wide tar road and proceeded north at a decent clip. The trip lasted nine hours, broken only by a stop in an impressive town called Oyo, where we loaded up on another nostril-quivering coffee and delicious pain au chocolat at a restaurant named Les Jardins d’El. We stopped a few times to watch forest elephants (a lifer for us) feeding on the roadside. The excellent tar road is a few years old, so the proffered advice I had received was somewhat outdated.
Camp Imbalanga’s airy dining room/lounge is positioned on a raised wooden deckCamp Imbalanga’s ensuite guest chalets are discreetly positioned for privacy, a short walk along forest paths from the lodge’s main area
My first night at Camp Imbalanga in Odzala-Kokoua National Park was much like the subsequent nights – hoots, whistles, sighs and screams unfamiliar to my bushveld ears. Our first day in paradise was primarily spent in an elevated hide overlooking Imbalanga baï – an easy 3-minute walk from camp. The most distinctive characteristic of the Congo rainforest is the forest baïs – island clearings in the sea of trees. Here, marshy areas rich in minerals and salts are a magnet for wildlife. During our several visits on that first day, we watched with bated breath as two different silverback western lowland gorillas ventured into the clearing at various times to feed on grasses and herbs.
The lookout over Imbalanga BaïA western lowland gorilla in Imbalanga Baï
The gorilla experience here differs significantly from the relaxed hangout with habituated mountain gorillas in Uganda and Rwanda. No arduous trek is involved; you wait in an elevated treehouse for the gorillas to appear. These are totally wild, and they will leave if you disturb them, sometimes screaming blue murder as they canter away – a cacophony that assaults the eardrums and echoes in the confines of the baïs. Usually, though, they hang out and do gorilla things while you watch in silent awe. These gorilla encounters last as long as they remain in the clearing, and you can stay in the treehouse all day – sometimes resulting in multiple sightings. A team of researchers is in the lengthy process of habituating a family group here, ensuring a more relaxed encounter at closer quarters. Having enjoyed many habituated mountain gorilla encounters, I found this ‘wilder’ experience refreshing and less intrusive. We saw several gorillas in various baïs in the following few days, including a small family group.
Speaking of culinary delights, I cannot say enough good things about the cuisine at Camp Imbalanga. The theme is best described as Congolese fare with a sophisticated urban twist. Several dishes are prepared the traditional way – wrapped in Marantaceae leaves – and presented on your plate in a quirky way – one serving mimicked the Congo-Brazzavile flag😄. All meals were light yet filling, emphasising vegetarian and fish dishes. The main starch is manioc (cassava), to which is added sweet potato, various vegetables, fish, fruit, freshly baked breads and dips made of ground nuts (peanuts), spinach and smoked barbel (catfish). Barbel wrapped in leaves and roasted over open coals was heavenly, and the delicious aroma as we savoured cold beers after an extraordinary safari day is a fond memory. An indigenous fruit by the name of ‘safou’ from the African pear tree Dacryodes edulis was another highlight and a first for me – an intriguing taste blend reminiscent of avocado and lemon, with an avo texture. The kitchen crew introduced the meals with pride and face-cracking grins.
Many meals are prepared the traditional way – wrapped in Marantaceae leaves
One day, we ventured to a baï called Moba Pool – a 90-minute drive along a good forest road and a 12-minute walk. On arrival, we were greeted by a herd of forest elephants enjoying a glorious mud bath, often only seeing their bums as they floated in the water, head-down to mine the floor for precious minerals. They would regularly leave the water to spend long moments contemplating, sometimes with trunks raised as they tasted us in the air. After the elephants had ghosted into the dense forest, we enjoyed a one-hour circular walk with our guide, Plaisance Mbounga – a treasure trove of information about the plants and wildlife of the area.
Venturing on a walk in Moba Pool with guide Plaisance Mbounga and Camp Imbalanga head of tourism and commercial development, Manon Jampy
We followed wide elephant walkways through the forest, marvelled at dense flutters of colourful butterflies partying on dung balls and gazed upwards to identify avian candy such as great blue turacos and white-thighed hornbills. We drank bitter but refreshing water from freshly cut lianas (the fast-growing vine is slashed, and the liquid drips out), listened to Guereza colobus croaking in the canopy like giant bullfrogs with microphones and wondered at the sky-scraper African whitewood trees with buttress roots taller than us.
Forest buffalo gathering at the edge of a pool
A few days later, we revisited Moba Pool to find a small herd of forest buffalo wallowing in the mud. Compared to the larger, craggy Cape buffalo we have in the bushveld, they are dainty and pretty, with their tufted ears and milk chocolate coats. When not ogling the big stuff, we were kept busy in the lookout tower, racking up birding lifers. My favourite of many sightings was a flock of about 20 black-collared lovebirds that visited the baï on a few occasions.
We also sojourned to the remote Lokoué Baï – an overnight rough-camping adventure. Our journey saw us motor-boat the twisting Mambili and Lokoué rivers (Congo River tributaries), sleepover at a rustic research camp and walk two hours in the dark early hours of the following day. With headlamps shining the way, our guides hacked through the dense Marantaceae understory (which regenerates within weeks) to arrive at the baï seconds before a huge downpour descended on us. Bundling into the watchtower as the heavy drops hammered the tin roof, we were thankful for the fortuitous timing. We cracked open a flask of steaming coffee and tucked into our breakfast of boiled eggs, fried toast and pancakes. The tropical deluge continued for much of the morning. Still, between showers, we saw buffaloes, a flock of 30 grey parrots, a pair of gorillas and a very muscular silverback gorilla with two juveniles. The riverboat cruises were extremely rewarding – we spotted many birds, breaching tiger fish, slender-snouted crocodiles, a sitatunga, buffaloes, water monitors, agile and grey-cheeked mangabeys and De Brazza’s monkeys.
AG’s Simon Espley and Brendan Taylor enjoy a boat cruise on the Mambili RiverGrey parrots descend on a baï to drink water and ingest minerals and saltsA slender-snouted crocodile basks on a branch
The most memorable encounter for me was a large bull forest elephant that crossed the river in front of us – snorkelling his way to the opposite bank and clambering out – his long white tusks gleaming. When the boat was stationary, the tsetse flies were a nuisance – luckily, we did not encounter them anywhere else. This rough camping adventure is extremely enjoyable for those with a sense of adventure, but note that the night in the research camp is very rustic – with thin mattresses and sleeping bags under a large tin-roofed open-sided shed. We were given a bucket of water and a bar of soap to scrub up before turning in. The food was superb, and the service was excellent. We were offered the possibility of venturing further north to Capitale Baï, where hyenas are known to hunt elephants and large flocks of grey parrots and green pigeons congregate. Sadly, time was not on our side, so we returned to Camp Imbalanga by late afternoon on the second day.
A cruise along the Mambili River
Our mission to Odzala-Kokoua was to document Camp Imbalanga, so we did not have the necessary time to search for jewels such as dwarf crocodile, bongo, golden potto, Demidoff’s dwarf galago, Lord Derby’s flying squirrel or a host of other mysterious creatures. Oh well, I will have to return soon …
THANKS
Our adventure was made all the more enjoyable by Manon Jampy, Odzala-Kokoua National Park head of tourism and commercial development, who played host and interpreter (most staff only speak French). Manon is an inspirational soul whose positive energy affects all lucky enough to spend time with her. Thanks also to legendary park manager Jonas Eriksson, who ensured our pre-trip arrangements went smoothly. Jonas and I enjoyed a stimulating mug of coffee while waiting for gorillas to appear at Imbalanga Baï. I was like a sponge absorbing his wisdom. Most importantly, our adventure was made thoroughly enjoyable by the entire team at Odzala-Kokoua – their endearing smiles, efficiency, and patience with our requests stood out for Brendan and me, and we carry fond memories. This young Congolese team is learning the tourism trade at an impressive pace – they have much to feel proud of.
Camp Imbalanga is a fully catered tented lodge featuring four ensuite canvas chalets for eight guests.
Nestled under the shady canopy of enormous trees, the ensuite guest chalets – discreetly positioned for privacy – are a short walk along forest paths from the central area. Each is on a raised wooden deck and shelters under a palm frond roof.
The central area, also on a raised wooden deck, features an airy dining room, lounge, kitchen area, small shop and firepit.
The unfenced forest camp is three minutes along a walkway from Imbalanga Baï, one of many baïs in Odzala-Kokoua National Park, where guests can view secretive wildlife species such as western lowland gorillas and forest elephants.
There are no rim-flow pools, air conditioning, or Wi-Fi. Camp Imbalanga is for those seeking a truly immersive experience powered by local people.
WATCH – about Camp Imbalanga:
African Parks:
Odzala-Kokoua National Park is managed by African Parks in collaboration with Congo-Brazzavile’s Ministry of Forest Economy, Sustainable Development and Environment. African Parks is a non-profit conservation organisation that takes on complete responsibility for the rehabilitation and long-term management of national parks in partnership with governments and local communities. They currently manage 22 national parks and protected areas in 12 countries covering over 20 million hectares.
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Mission Bazaruto + stellar photos
Does an African safari really make a difference at ground level? The short answer is YES, it does, but some more than others. Every lodge/camp employs local people with cascading benefits for their dependents and the local economy. The more benefits local people derive from the safari tourism industry and NGO activities, the more inclined they will be to support conservation and resist alternative land uses such as farming, mining, logging and trophy hunting. Many lodges have concerted programs that involve education and health benefits for local people – and more. Most will happily provide you with details if you ask them – or you can ask our safari experts to dig further to help craft your responsible safari. To do that, visit our website via the links below and follow the prompts.
How can you increase the positive impact of your safari? There are many ways, but here are three that stand out like a giant knobbly baobab against the starlit night sky:
Why not venture beyond the ‘prime’ safari season of June to September? By doing so, you reduce the environmental footprint (fewer people and vehicles to impact on the landscape and wildlife movement) and open yourself up to some of Africa’s most unique experiences – the hidden gems that safari connoisseurs often seek out. To help you plan, we’ve provided a detailed month-by-month guide to a typical year in Africa.
As a responsible traveller, you can shape the future of African safaris. Consider including visits to remote areas that are less popular than the heavily marketed destinations. These off-the-beaten-path locations often offer unique experiences and can significantly benefit from your visit. You can find a variety of these locations in this taste of ready-made safari packages.
And you could try ‘COALITION‘ – an innovative campaign dreamt up by my team that speaks for itself.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Hyenas and porcupines don’t get along, nor do hyenas and warthogs, or porcupines and warthogs, for that matter. Fair enough. So how do these three species end up shacking up underground?
Researchers have observed spotted hyenas, porcupines and warthogs – on more than one occasion – sharing the same den site in Kenya’s Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. One site was home to as many as two porcupines, six warthogs and 11 hyenas at one time – who often entered the den within minutes of each other. Not only did the animals remain safe inside with no conflict, but the hyenas also did not prey on their bedfellows on the surface. The key to the peaceful cohabitation boiled down to three things: sharing bones (at least between the hyenas and porcupines), having separate bed chambers, and, on the hyena’s part, not being able to move enough in the tight space to inflict harm. Fascinating!
Check out our Photographer of the Year gallery below (there’s less than one month left to enter!), and read about Kingsley Holgate’s mission of hope to Mozambique’s paradise island of Bazaruto Archipelago National Park.
Bush or beach? Now is the time to start planning your safari – whether to see the Great Wildebeest Migration in Tanzania, or to soak up the island vibe of Zanzibar. Or why not combine the two?
The Great Wildebeest Migration in Serengeti National Park, Tanzania, is a BUCKET-LIST experience. This safari offers a front-row seat as vast herds of wildebeest make their way through the open plains of the Serengeti. Don’t miss your chance to witness this epic wildlife bonanza
Our safari experts have been busy planning epic safari experiences for our tribe. From a 17-day safari across three countries (SA, Kenya & Tanzania), to a gorilla-trekking safari to Rwanda and Uganda, and a special-occasion safari to the Okavango Delta in Botswana: here’s what our travellers had to say.
“I would not change anything… Nadia helped us design a fantastic 17-day safari adventure across three countries (on short notice). Everything worked seamlessly, from flights, to properties, to transfers. More importantly, she helped immediately with any questions we had mid-journey. We could not be happier with our decision to travel with Africa Geographic. An amazing experience, with no friction.”
“An excellent and well-organised tour of Rwanda and Uganda!”
“Christian from Africa Geographic was really good in helping us with a special-occasion safari. His advice on selection of camps in the Okavango was really good. All arrangements worked well and it was a great experience.”
WATCH: Once extremely numerous, the African penguin population has plummeted from one million breeding pairs to a tiny fraction of this figure. Commercial fishing, marine pollution, and habitat destruction have taken their toll. Due to increasing pressure, the African penguin could be wiped out within a decade without active intervention. (05:18) Click here to watch
Our mission in Mozambique is to reach the Bazaruto Archipelago National Park, number 10 of this Afrika Odyssey quest to connect all 22 African Parks-managed protected areas in 12 countries. Not far from the town of Vilanculos, a new, marine-themed wildlife adventure awaits.
Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.
We’re hosted by old friend Veronica Bouwer, funding and special projects manager for the Bazaruto Archipelago National Park. Many years ago, she’d shared the thrills and spills of one of our expeditions in inflatable boats up the Rio Rovuma, that fascinating river that separates southern Tanzania from northern Mozambique. Now, some 20 years later, we’re in a boat again. Still, this time, it’s a state-of-the-art, shark-grey coloured 24 Novacat – African Parks’ patrol boat with two big 4-stroke outboard engines – destination Paradise Island, now known as Ilha de Santa Carolina.
Swapping the expedition Defenders for the African Parks Novacat to reach Bazaruto Archipelago
Spanning 1,430km² of the sea and five islands, the Bazaruto Archipelago is a thriving haven and one of the most critical marine sanctuaries in the Indian Ocean, protecting a host of marine species, including dolphins sharks, whales, manta rays, turtles and the largest viable dugong populations on the East African coast. Heading towards the sparkling white sand island beach, it’s as if we’re being escorted by a pod of dolphins gambolling beside the boat. Then, visible in the clear aquamarine water, several green turtle hatchlings rise to the surface – one of five turtle species that reside here. Bazaruto is the only known place in the western Indian Ocean where all five species nest every year.
Paradise Island is the only deserted island in the Archipelago, but that wasn’t always the case. We explore the fading pink and green ruins of the once-opulent Santa Carolina Hotel, which was renowned for hedonistic parties of the rich and famous in the 50s, 60s, and 70s. It’s rumoured that Elton John was a regular visitor, playing the grand piano in the ballroom with its endless turquoise sea views, and Bob Dylan penned his hit song ‘Mozambique’ here.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
Back in the patrol boat and heading for Bazaruto Island, the skipper squints into the sun and shouts, “Dugong!” He eases the boat slowly towards the ripples on the surface, and we lean over the side, eagerly searching for a glimpse. However, the dugong submerges and is quickly lost in sight. Still, its incredible marine conservation story is not lost on us.
Bazaruto is known as a safe haven for dugongs
In 2022, the dugong was relisted as ‘Critically Endangered’ on the IUCN Red List, giving it the highest level of protection. In the past five years, the African Parks team on the islands has worked tirelessly to provide jobs and livelihoods for the Archipelago’s inhabitants and nurture a growing understanding of the benefits of protecting their unique marine biodiversity. We’re told that dugong deaths caused by fishing nets have almost completely stopped, illegal activities have substantially declined, and an aerial count this year showed an increase in the dugong population with many new calves spotted—another great story of hope for conservation on this Afrika Odyssey journey.
Not a scrap of litter on the beaches of Bazaruto – thanks to the work of the women employed by the Basisa Bazaruto community group
We mention to Veronica and her team how clean the beaches are; there’s not a scrap of litter, no old plastic bottles or washed-up rubbish – almost unheard of these days – and it adds significantly to the beauty of Bazaruto. Soon, we get to know why; as the patrol boat weighs anchor in knee-deep water and we wade ashore, a singing, dancing group of women colourfully dressed in bright blue and white kangas come down the beach to greet us. It’s the Basisa Bazaruto community group that employs 50 women, who last year removed over 167 tonnes of waste from the Archipelago and sent it by dhow to the mainland for recycling. What delightful characters!
The Basisa Bazaruto ladies, with Kingsley and Sheelagh, carrying collected waste
We dance barefoot in the sand, help carry the hessian sacks, and sort through the day’s collected waste. It’s the best clean-up project we’ve ever encountered and another excellent example of how African Parks and its partners realise the importance of involving communities—and have a great deal of fun while they’re doing it.
The Bazaruto dhow loaded with waste ready for recycling
We ask Veronica where she’d like to add a splash of symbolic Bazaruto Archipelago water to the expedition’s calabash, expecting her to say from one of the beaches. But she’s a free spirit and opts for an inland, freshwater island lake. “It’s beautiful in the interior,” she says, pointing to a map. “But – you won’t believe this – we’ll have to be careful of the crocs! And we’ll have to use the island’s tractor and trailer to get there.”
Bouncing like rubber balls on a tractor ride into the interior of Bazaruto Island
It’s a beautiful day, and we’re reminded of Bob Dylan’s words: ‘I’d like to spend some time in Mozambique, the sunny sky is aqua-blue….’ as we pile our bags and tailgate lunch boxes into the trailer. It has a solid suspension, so we bounce like rubber balls, passing island villages and stopping at vegetable gardens that Veronica and her community team helped establish. Lake Lengue is beautifully calm, with hardly a ripple in the water. We keep a careful watch as Veronica, Marcella and Niema dip the much-travelled calabash – the 10th and last addition of water for this southern Africa chapter. Someone shouts, “CROC!” and the three ladies race out of the lake as if shot from a cannon; laughter all around – we celebrate with an Eixx (2M beer).
Veronica, Marcella and Niema from the Bazaruto community team collect Lake Lengue water
Many memories are created from our fascinating time on the Bazaruto Archipelago, especially at Sitone basecamp and again at the Chizungune ranger post, where the rangers—full of humour and camaraderie and totally committed to protecting this marine park—enthusiastically gathered to add their messages to the Scroll of Peace and Goodwill for Conservation that we’re carrying across the continent.
The African Parks Bazaruto team
The last time messages written in Portuguese were added to the Scroll was over 100 days ago at Parque Nationale du Iona on the Atlantic coast of southwest Angola – the very first of the African Parks-managed wildlife areas on this journey. Now, here on the Indian Ocean coast, after a 23,000km west-to-east, cross-continental journey to experience first-hand the inspiring revival of 10 national parks with so many uplifting community and cultural encounters, we’ve completed the southern Africa chapter of this Afrika Odyssey expedition.
Friends, at a time when there are so many stories of doom and gloom for conservation in the headlines, how wonderful it is for us to be part of a greater story of hope for Africa’s wild spaces and the communities that depend on them.
It’s now time for Chapter Two of this wildlife-themed odyssey. We replenish the depleted expedition grub boxes, breathe an immense sigh of relief when crucial visas arrive just in the nick of time, and repack the two trusty expedition Defender 130s to the roof racks with more conservation and humanitarian supplies. The Scroll (now heavy with hundreds of heartwarming messages) and the most travelled African calabash in the world, which collects symbolic water from each park we visit, are given pride of place.
Timeless: a sailing dhow floats across Bazaruto waters at sunset
Heading north, our next African Park destination is Akagera National Park, the largest protected wetland and the last remaining refuge for savannah species in Rwanda. This second chapter also includes a challenging journey into the remote northeast corner of the DRC and then South Sudan. It promises to be even more of an adventure with captivating conservation and community stories waiting to be revealed—we will keep you posted.
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
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Tuskers death toll reaches 5 + breathtaking photos
FIVE. The death toll of giant Amboseli elephants by trophy hunting in recent months has risen to 5. These icons are protected against hunting in Kenya but not when they wander across the border into Tanzania.
In what can best be described as eco-sabotage, a small but influential cabal of Tanzanian trophy-hunting operators are driving their industry over a cliff. These morally bankrupt individuals have one goal in mind – loads of cash – and have enough clients slobbering at the mouth to bag one of the last 100-pounders before they are either protected or extinct.
Numerous trophy hunters have contacted us to express their concerns, but few have spoken out with any conviction against the rotten eggs in their industry. And there are enough ethical hunters in the online forums we monitor to stop the rot. But none of them go beyond a few words of concern.
The tourism industry, too, remains largely silent. A leading entity representing many of us – tour operators and lodges – refused to publish to their members our concern about the situation. Are we the only high-profile tourism brand prepared to speak out publicly?
Obviously, boycotting Tanzania’s tourism industry would be disastrous. That route would weaken tourism and make trophy hunting more important as a revenue generator. What we need is for more members of the tourism and broader hunting industries to stick their necks out and demand an end to this attack by a few delinquent trophy-hunting operators on the remaining tusker population across Africa.
History will judge our generation for not taking decisive action against the evil ones.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
In non-human primates, aggression is often used to maintain social order (quite the opposite of its effects in human society).
Chimpanzees have a reputation as the most aggressive of the apes – often resorting to lethal violence. But bonobos – our close relatives – were long thought of as the mellow peacemakers of the animal kingdom. But did you know that bonobos are actually quite aggressive – perhaps even more so than notoriously forceful chimps?
Researchers studying bonobos in the Democratic Republic of Congo and chimpanzees in Tanzania compared male behaviour in both species and found that acts of aggression – such as hitting, biting and chasing – were more common in bonobos. Aggressive bonobos were also more successful in mating. But, other academics have suggested that comparing aggressive behaviour in the two species is not fair, as chimpanzees are known to kill, while bonobos are not. At least the bonobos have one up on humans in that respect.
Speaking of… don’t miss our update on the trophy hunting of ANOTHER two large tuskers along the Tanzania/Kenya border below. Also, check out the important report on the state of Africa’s migratory animals, and this week’s breathtaking Photographer of the Year gallery.
This primate quest will take you to meet the apes and monkeys of East and Central Africa. From critically endangered Grauer’s gorillas and legendary mountain gorillas to charismatic golden monkeys and noisy chimpanzees, this safari is a celebration of all things primate. You’ll visit Rwanda, Uganda and DRC, and the spectacular scenery and enthralling birding are added bonuses!
This is an off-the-beaten-track safari in Kenya for those who want the magnificence of the Maasai Mara National Reserve without the crowds. Search for the Big 5, enjoy prolific bird life, and visit local Maasai villages and markets to enjoy an authentic cultural experience. You’ll stay at intimate owner-run Enkewa Camp, where you’ll feel like part of the family – while still enjoying the tranquillity of privacy.
Have you submitted your entry for Photographer of the Year 2024? There is just ONE MONTH LEFT to get your entries in. Visit our website for all you need to know, from how and where to enter, to our competition rules and the epic prizes on offer – including a conservation safari and a lion research collar sponsored in your name. Don’t miss your chance to become the next Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year!
WATCH: Akagera National Park, Rwanda, is home to Central Africa’s largest protected wetland, consisting of a complex system of lakes linked by papyrus-lined swamps. In the remote north of the park, you will find Karenge Bush Camp, perched on a ridge overlooking the wildlife-rich Kilala Plains below. Karenge is an off-the-grid getaway for safari enthusiasts seeking privacy and solitude. (06:31) Click here to watch
Migratory animals come in all forms and shapes, from bats to birds, wildebeests to whales. But most migratory species have one thing in common: they face increasing anthropogenic damage to their habitats and migratory corridors.
A report released by the United Nations Convention on the Conservation of Migratory Species of Wild Animals has shown a drastic decline in the world’s travelling animals. The conservation status of many migratory species faces dire prospects, with those occurring in Africa facing the sharpest declines.
Migratory animals migrate across national jurisdictional boundaries for a variety of reasons. Sometimes, species track favourable resources or move to different climates. Sometimes, animals are in search of optimal breeding sites (such as areas with suitable resources to feed and nourish the young safely). Sometimes, whole populations move, and sometimes, solitary individuals migrate.
But the flyways, swim ways, and migratory paths of these travelling animals have lost the resources and security previously offered. The connectivity between their departure and destination has been fragmented by land use change, pollution (noise, light, and chemical pollution), hunting, and/or climate change. How can we prioritise the same security for migratory animals, like the vultures and whales of Africa?
Why should we care?
Beyond the fact that our wildlife has an intrinsic right to exist on earth, as much as we do, these animals play valuable roles in the agricultural sector (bats and other mammals, bugs and birds are important pollinators), in our culture, as a food source and in our recreational activities (tourism, etc.). They can be ecosystem regulators and provide food for other species (prey) or regulate the abundance of different species (predators).
The Convention on the Conservation of Migratory Species (CMS) is an international framework developed to protect the travel requirements of migratory species. The latest report from the CMS indicates that more than one in five CMS-listed species are threatened with extinction, and 44% have a decreasing population trend. Worryingly, 97% of CMS-listed fish species are threatened with extinction. Fish don’t have many travel options; they can take the river – and that’s it. Significant barriers, such as dams, are not conducive to fish migration.
CMS-listed species in Africa have shown an average decrease of 27% in abundance between 1970 and 2017. But not only abundance matters – sometimes even losing individuals within a population of migratory species poses a considerable risk, especially for long-lived animals (like elephants) that rely on social learning and collective memory to successfully navigate key corridors.
When species cross countries, conservation laws and policies change too – and though a species population might be well-protected in one country, there is no guarantee that it will afford this protection in another country. For example, since commercial whaling was stopped in the 1980s, the subpopulation of humpback whales in the South Atlantic has increased. However, the subpopulation in the Arabian Sea has fewer than 350 individuals and is threatened by ship strikes and entanglement from fish nets.
The long and winding road for migratory species: threats
Unsustainable hunting and collecting affects nearly three-quarters of all CMS-listed terrestrial mammals (70%) and is particularly of concern in regions affected by political instability or poverty. Hunting of birds in western and southeastern Africa is often not monitored – this hinders the international community’s ability to tally the global impact on the species and prevents accurate quota setting.
The Serengeti-Mara ecosystem provides a prime example of how agriculture, settlements, roads and fences have caused habitat loss and fragmentation – affecting migratory routes for the Great Wildebeest Migration
The impact of ongoing human encroachment on habitats is pervasive, as is evident in the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem in Tanzania and Kenya, where the Great Wildebeest Migration occurs. Agriculture, settlements, roads, and fences change the quality and availability of habitat for the blue wildebeest and plains zebra, which in turn affects the CMS-listed apex predators, including cheetah, lion, and African wild dog, that rely on these migrations.
The increase in land use for agriculture also results in insect population declines, which removes a key food source for migratory birds. Dugongs suffer from similar issues, but their migratory habitat is seagrass, which is lost through port expansion and pollution.
The degradation of seagrass threatens the conservation of dugongs
Energy infrastructure also impacts migration, such as wind turbines, which can potentially disrupt the migratory paths of birds like the black harrier. Barriers to migration are not only from permanent infrastructure – shipping traffic has increased, and along with this, ship strikes on whale sharks and cetaceans are increasing.
Climate change has many ramifications for migrating species because they follow seasonal resources. Imagine migrating hundreds of kilometres to reach spring in your preferred breeding site, only to find that it’s still winter there.
Climate change also has other unexpected impacts on migratory species; for example, African wild dogs hunt less in extreme heat and rear fewer pups than those raising pups in cooler weather.
Climate change can affect the number of pups reared by wild dogs
So what can be done about these issues?
The CMS provides a solution-based, cooperative approach to assist migratory species in their travels. They are like a travel agency for animals, working with governments, civil society and the private sector to create connected journeys for species through difficult terrain and looming threats. For example, the CMS Energy Task Force is a global forum that guides renewable-energy activities to avoid and minimise negative impacts on migratory species.
Only through collaboration at all levels of society and sectors will we succeed in protecting our travelling fauna on their long and windy paths through this world.
Our Photographer of the Year 2024 is open for submissions. Each of the three winners (the overall winner plus two runners-up) will become a personal sponsor of a wild Hwange lion research collar. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley on a conservation safariin Botswana. Read more about the Photographer of the Year 2024 prizes here.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 March 2024 to midnight on 31 May 2024. Judging will take place throughout those months and for the month of June 2024, and the winners will be announced in early July 2024.
Last week I mentioned a rather hilarious gorilla encounter in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. That got me thinking of the difference between encounters with habituated and non-habituated gorillas. Chalk and cheese. Of course, both types of encounter are with wild gorillas, but the habituation aspect of gorilla encounters in Uganda and Rwanda does result in a different experience.
During a recent expedition to Odzala-Kokoua National Park in Congo-Brazzaville, I was lucky enough to encounter non-habituated western lowland gorillas on several occasions. All of these encounters were while waiting patiently – often for many hours – in observation towers on the edge of forest clearings known as baïs. The gorillas will often leave immediately if you disturb them, sometimes screaming blue murder – a cacophony that assaults the eardrums and echoes in the confines of the baïs.
Of course habituated gorilla encounters are one of the world’s best wildlife encounters – which I recommend highly – and they raise significant amounts of money to keep mountain gorillas safe. That said, having thoroughly enjoyed both types of encounter for what they are, I found the ‘wilder’ experience in Odzala-Kokoua refreshing and less intrusive.
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
And now for something completely macabre… In ancient Greece, the Scythians would sew together the scalps of their enemies to make cloaks. This is one of the earliest accounts of such morbid behaviour. But there is a creature in Africa that can one-up the Scythians – by wearing a backpack made up of the bodies of its victims.
Acanthaspis petax is an assassin bug found in Kenya and Tanzania that disguises itself by covering its body in corpses. The bug is often seen moving around with this “backpack” on its abdomen – usually made up of the empty corpses of ants. Researchers think this acts as olfactory camouflage for when the bug is hunting other ants, or as a visual distraction for larger creatures trying to hunt the bug. At least this “defense mechanism” proves very effective in deterring predators…
Below, check out Irene Amiet’s travel diary from Busanga Plains, the jewel of Kafue, and don’t miss the magnificent photos from this week’s Photographer of the Year selection.
Let us take you on an adventure. Fancy seeing all Namibia has to offer? Or perhaps experiencing the glamping safari of your dreams? Check out these once-in-a-lifetime safaris:
Experience the best of Namibia, from the red dunes of Sossusvlei and the wildlife of Etosha to the prolific bird life in Walvis Bay’s coastal wetlands. Over 13 days, your private guide will reveal the majesty of Namibia, its phenomenal wildlife and compelling historical and cultural diversity. You will have plenty of time to explore this vast country, meet local people and experience Namibia’s fauna and flora.
This is the glamping safari that dreams are made of: six days in the intoxicating Okavango Delta on a fully catered mobile safari. You’ll be led by experienced guides while exploring Khwai Community Concession and Moremi Game Reserve. Go in search of the big cats and wild dogs in the dry woodlands and floodplains, and glide down meandering waterways in a mokoro in search of hippos, elephants and avian candy.
WATCH: Odzala-Kokoua National Park is an epic destination for experiencing Congo-Brazzaville’s secretive wildlife species such as western lowland gorillas and forest elephants. Camp Imbalanga, nestled under the shady canopy of enormous trees, is an unfenced forest camp a short walk from Imbalanga Baï – one of many baïs in the park. (01:54) Click here to watch
The horizon as seen from Busanga Plains stretches in every direction and the lowering sun paints the grasslands with a gilded brush this late afternoon. Every lechwe’s horn, every stone is set aglow. The hippos’ eyes catch the metallic light as does the spray their crashing jaws create. Two male puku stand still and alert by the last of the water, their eyes trained to a spot beyond our vehicle.
Despite the cover of tall papyrus reeds, the antelopes sense danger.
Hidden from their sight are no less than twenty lions. Three generations lay outstretched on their backs, paws in the air as they roll around before falling back into a digestive coma. This pride includes such Busanga legends as the lion referred to by some as “Killing Machine”, a grandmother now, and her daughter, “Princess” as well as their sub-adult-offspring and smaller cubs from a different litter.
One cub raises on her haunches, waiting patiently for the puku to relax and lower their heads to drink before she charges at them, just as the adults have taught her. The attempt is half-hearted and the puku scatter safe of striking distance, blowing sharp warning calls through their nostrils.
This scene plays out in an area of Zambia’s Kafue National Park which is over 90 air-minutes away from the big cities of Lusaka and Livingstone, where we spent a few days exploring the plains. Stretching over 720km², Busanga Plains is at the top of the list when it comes to game viewing – as there is a low ratio of human visitors to wildlife.
The plains are only accessible between April and October when the floods have receded enough to allow for road transport but those four months offer some of the best game viewing in Southern Africa. Thousands of red lechwe and puku assemble along the receding water channels which shelter hippos and catfish.
The ancient head of a crocodile breaches the water, snapping at some unsuspecting jacana. Crowned cranes and yellow-billed storks shake their wings in airborne retreat before carefully stalking back to their fishing spot.
A southern ground-hornbill glides past like a marionette from a puppet show taken flight. Surrounding the plains are woodlands which shelter elephants during the heat of the day. The woodlands allow ample foliage for the browsers, and even for the grazers such as roan and sable antelope who may also take a selective nip here and there. And, there are plenty of spots for hyenas to build their dens. We spot all of these during a four-hour morning drive.
This game-rich habitat makes Busanga a veritable paradise for lions, many of which have been captured in documentary series such as Swamp Lions and Kings of Busanga Plains.
Early one morning, we get to witness the pride male “General” follow a female referred to as “Nala”. He stalks her along thin-stemmed acacia trees and across open plains, his mane coiffed by the breeze, a silhouette fit for a movie. Unfortunately, his intended catches sight of a young intruder who piques her interest. She makes a dash for the stranger with the golden coat, General in hot pursuit. The youngster sees the battle-scarred elder and runs for his life. Soon after, Nala’s focus is back on the old and trusted General who pursues her for three hours with intermittent rest to mark his territory.
This time of year, the plains are thirsting for water, and the clouds assemble at night only to disperse by morning. Thunder can be heard in the distance, but the sun breaks through once more. As there are no geographical restrictions, a wind often swipes across the plains, which in the warmer months can feel as if a blow-dryer was aimed at one’s face.
As the heat rises, we leave the lions, who have found a shaded spot on one of the raised patches of shrubbery and palm trees – which would be islands in the wet season.
When the sun sets, more hippos start grunting, competing for the deepest water, and we watch the grenadine red skies melt into darkness, with the occasional opened jaws breaking the dusky silhouette. Their grunts will accompany us throughout the night and blend with the lion’s deep call as we lay in our tents, immersed in this truly remote wilderness, the truest luxury of a safari experience.
Red lechwes engage in battleSibling love on the plainsA large crocodile emerges from the flooded plainsSouthern ground-hornbill in flightAcacias tower over a pride maleA tussle between hippos during the heat of the dayScarred old male “General” engaged in a slow pursuit of female, “Nala”A spotted hyena cub frollicking on the plainsEasing into an afternoon dozeBusanga Plains at dawn
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? African Parks has been responsible for the management of Kafue National Park since 2022. Kafue became the 20th park in African Park’s portfolio of stabilised and rehabilitated protected areas across the continent. Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
Kafue National Park is Zambia’s oldest and largest national park – known for sweeping plains and wetlands, and abundant and unique wildlife. Read more about Kafue here.
Travel in Africa is about knowing when and where to go, and with whom. A few weeks too early/late or a few kilometres off course, and you could miss the greatest show on Earth. And wouldn’t that be a pity?
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TRAVEL DESK: 
WATCH: Looking for something different? Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve is Malawi’s oldest and largest reserve – encompassing 1,800km2 (180,000 hectares) of wild and rugged terrain. Nkhotakota is Africa at her most raw and beautiful, removed from the indignities of mass commercial tourism. Learn more here. (06:03) Click here to watch
Originally from Windhoek, Namibia, Dewald grew up in the small rural town of Belfast, Mpumalanga. As a child, all his family holidays were spent camping or hiking in the Kruger National Park. This is where his love for nature was cultivated. Although he works in the medical field, wildlife photography has been his passion for the last 20 years. Dewald and his wife have travelled extensively around the globe to photograph rare and exciting wildlife. Through his images, he wants to influence people to start thinking about conservation and protecting the last remaining wild places on Earth.
Ivan was born into a family of wildlife and photography enthusiasts in South Africa, where his deep passion for African wildlife and wildlife photography took root at an early age. Sharing this passion through his photography has always brought him joy. In his mid-twenties, Ivan emigrated to Australia and began his corporate career. During those years, his focus shifted away from wildlife and photography as his professional responsibilities and family took precedence. However, in 2019, an extraordinary opportunity presented itself when Ivan 
For over two decades, South African-born Greg du Toit has been solely devoted to photographing Africa’s wildlife. His fine art collections have been shown from New York to Singapore, and his work has hung in natural history museums from Canada to Australia. His solo exhibition, ‘Authentic Africa’, hosted by the National Geographic gallery on London’s Regent Street, was a sell-out. The BBC Wildlife Magazine featured the article, ‘A waiting game’, detailing his 270 hours spent sitting inside a Kenyan waterhole. He is the author of three books: AWE, a coffee-table book containing a decade’s worth of imagery and Getting it right in camera, a how-to book for wildlife photographers. Wilderness dreaming is the title of his African memoir, filled with wild bush adventures in his search of lost Africa. The BBC World Service has interviewed him, he has appeared on NBC’s TODAY show and has, as a guest speaker, delivered presentations as far afield as northern Finland. Through his online galleries, his limited-edition prints bring Africa to the walls of homes worldwide. Greg donates some of his prints to both humanitarian and wildlife charities.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari lodges and campsites where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? You can plan and book your African Parks safari to 
Perched high in the sky amid the clouds in southeast Africa lies a dazzling array of natural wonders. Straddling the borders between Malawi and Mozambique lies a collection of ancient granite mountains that harbour some of the richest biodiversity on the continent. These isolated mountainous habitats are home to rare forests, endemic plants and animals found nowhere else on earth. Now, a group of scientists is proposing that Southern Africa’s threatened ‘sky islands’, consisting of 30 isolated mountains in southern Malawi and northern Mozambique, be declared as Africa’s newest ecoregion.
A second group of Angolan giraffes, numbering 13, has been successfully relocated to Iona National Park, Angola, as part of an ongoing conservation initiative to restore and enrich the park’s biodiversity. Last year, Angolan giraffes were returned to their historical home after an absence of more than a century, and this second translocation continues this conservation success story.
