Page 11 – Africa Geographic

The safari circuits of Tanzania

Tanzania is an extraordinary country, replete with an abundance of mesmerising natural marvels and magnificent cultural nuances. It is an essential bucket-list destination for safari enthusiasts and wildlife lovers. Of course, in an ideal world, these visitors would have boundless time and money to explore the country at leisure, but this is not a realistic option for most. For many, a trip across the world to visit Tanzania’s majesty may be a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Tanzania is traditionally divided into “safari circuits” to ensure that travellers make the most of their special journey.

These circuits divide Tanzania into the four corners of the compass and consist of an itinerary of destinations designed to minimise travelling time and maximise the experience. Tanzania is a diverse country, so each circuit offers its own unique magic, divergent scenery, and appealing wildlife encounters. The northern, southern, western, and eastern circuits encompass a selection of national parks, reserves, conservation areas and even, in the case of the eastern circuit, islands and beaches, that visitors can choose based on their interests.

Tanzania’s northern circuit

The northern circuit is unequivocally the most popular circuit on this list and includes destinations that are the stuff of safari, travel and film-making legend. For first-time visitors who only plan to visit Tanzania, this is almost unfailingly the place to start. It involves some of the best roads in Tanzania, so every destination is easily and (relatively) quickly accessible, and there are countless accommodation options available for every budget, from basic campsites to some of the most luxurious lodges in Africa.

Want to go on an adventure along one of Tanzania’s extraordinary safari circuits? Search for the best Tanzanian safaris on offer right now, and check out our recommended accommodation on offer in Tanzania.

The northern circuit stretches from Lake Victoria in the west to Mount Kilimanjaro in the east, and it is bounded by the Kenyan border to the north and Tarangire National Park to the south. It includes such iconic names as the Serengeti and Ngorongoro, and, naturally, more time should be devoted to exploring these areas than others.

Serengeti National Park

Serengeti National Park is a land synonymous with the very essence of an African safari, where the majesty of the scenery and expansive atmosphere is matched by extraordinary wildlife viewing. Here, sweeping grass plains, rocky outcrops and woodlands support myriad animal species, all engaged in a primordial battle for survival.

Naturally, the Serengeti ecosystem is most famous for its role in the Great Migration – the largest overland migration on earth. In fact, most of the year, the wildebeest herds move through the Serengeti before passing the international boundary into the Maasai Mara. No words can fully capture the dazzling feeling of sitting in amongst hundreds of thousands of animals that stretch as far as the eye can see or throw themselves helter-skelter at the mercy of the river crossings. However spectacular though it may be, the Serengeti is about more than the migration. The Big 5 are all present, and encounters with big cats and hyenas are all but guaranteed, viewed against the backdrop of breathtaking scenery.

The Serengeti ecosystem also incorporates several surrounding reserves and game control areas, all contiguous with the national park. These include Grumeti Controlled Area, Ikorongo Controlled Area, Loliondo Game Controlled Area and Maswa Game Reserve. The national park is also open to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area described below.

Ngorongoro Conservation Area

Ngorongoro Conservation Area is often described as Africa’s Eden, with its most prominent feature being the Ngorongoro Crater. This ancient volcanic caldera encircles one of the most biodiverse and precious wild spaces in Africa, giving the impression that time stood still at the centre of the massive geological cradle. Here, many of Africa’s most iconic animals (including the Big 5) thrive, and every year, Lake Magadi flushes pink as hundreds of flamingos arrive during the breeding season.

Tanzania Northern Safari Circuit — An elephant grazes at the bottom of the crater

Outside the crater, the Ndutu region of Ngorongoro serves as a critical resting point in the Great Migration, as over a million wildebeest arrive on the short grass plains to calve. At the height of the chaos, over 8,000 calves are born each day, forced to find their feet quickly or be lost to the predators that throw themselves into the wildebeest melee with joyous abandon.

The steep-sided ravine of Olduvai (or, more correctly, Oldupai) Gorge is another of Ngorongoro’s significant attractions, having yielded a timeline of our evolution as a species. The scattered fossils, tools and bone fragments reveal the gradual development of societies and social complexities that today define Homo sapiens.

Lake Manyara National Park

Lake Manyara National Park is named for the eponymous lake along its eastern edge, with the remainder of the park sandwiched between the lake and the dramatic hills of the Great Rift escarpment to the west. Known for its spectacular displays of flamingos and other water birds, Manyara is lowkey and less frenetic than the extravaganza of Serengeti or Ngorongoro. This makes it ideal as a perfect launchpad for exploring the northern circuit of Tanzania.

Tarangire National Park

Not far from Lake Manyara, Tarangire National Park is the southernmost park in the northern circuit. It is a land of giant baobabs, fever tree forests, shimmering swamps and sweeping vistas – unequivocally one of Africa’s most underrated African safari destinations, bursting with abundant wildlife. It is also an essential landscape for one of the lesser-known migrations in Tanzania because, during the dry season, the Tarangire River becomes one of the only available water sources. Tens of thousands of animals are drawn to its banks and floodplains from miles in every direction.

Don’t get too close! Spotting elephants on a guided walk

Mount Kilimanjaro

As Africa’s highest mountain, Mount Kilimanjaro needs little by way of introduction, as every year, thousands of amateur and expert hikers set out to summit its peak. Its snow-capped summit stands out incongruously against the flat Rift Valley scenery below, and even those reluctant to don hiking boots should be content to gaze upon this African legend from its base.

Arusha National Park and Mount Meru

The city of Arusha acts as the gateway to the northern circuit, meaning that Arusha National Park is usually the first or the last stop for travellers navigating the route. Within the park, the dormant volcano of Mount Meru is occasionally referred to as the “little brother” of Mount Kilimanjaro. It offers a much quieter and more intimate experience, along with spectacular wildlife encounters en route to the summit.

Mount Meru is Kilimanjaro’s “little brother”

Tanzania’s southern circuit

In contrast to the bustling northern circuit, Tanzania’s southern safari circuit is remote and wild, characterised by a feeling of absolute immersion without ever skimping on East Africa’s famous hospitality standards. This region is famed for its back-to-basics and authentic approach, where exploring on foot is an essential part of the experience and you can go for days without encountering another tourist. Much of this region is relatively arid compared to the luscious plains of the north but still incorporates areas with thriving swamps, verdant forests and spectacular waterfalls.

Ruaha National Park

Ruaha National Park is a gem of the southern circuit, an enormous and untamed semi-arid wilderness, divided by live-giving river systems and dotted with the pyknic forms of ancient baobabs. The rugged park supports high densities of herbivores (including sizeable herds of elephants) and one of the largest lion populations on the continent. Leopard, cheetah, spotted hyena and African wild dog (painted wolf) sightings are frequent, and some lucky visitors have even managed to spot one of the park’s elusive striped hyenas.

Tanzania Southern Safari Circuit — A matriarch leads the herd to water in Ruaha

The protection of the greater Ruaha ecosystem is extended by the contiguous Rungwa, Kizigo, Usangu and Muhezi game reserves, all offering their own African safari experiences.

Nyerere National Park/Selous Game Reserve

The newly declared Nyerere National Park now extends over three sides of the Rufiji River valley, carved from the former Selous Game Reserve. The Rufiji River dominates the landscape, fanning into an intricate network of channels, oxbow lakes, and swamps, supplying a never-ending parade of thirsty animals drawn to the water’s edge. Though the declaration of the national park is intended to boost Nyerere’s tourism potential, there is no question that this remains something of a forgotten corner of Africa, where wildlife connoisseurs can lose themselves in the vast wilderness.

Mikumi National Park

Mikumi National Park lies adjacent to the northern border of Nyerere National Park and is easily accessible from Dar Es Salaam, making it a popular choice for local tourists. However, few international guests have yet to discover the splendour of Mikume’s expansive floodplains and prolific animal sightings.

Udzungwa Mountains National Park

Despite its proximity to the western edge of Nyerere National Park, the misty forests and picturesque, tumbling waterfalls of Udzungwa Mountains National Park make it seem worlds apart. These mountains are a biodiversity hotspot characterised by mind-boggling levels of endemism, with species including the Iringa red colobus, the Sanje crested mangabey, the Udzungwa partridge and the rufous-winged sunbird.

Tanzania’s western circuit

Unlike the northern and southern safari circuits, Tanzania’s western circuit breaks away somewhat from the more traditional safari fare. This is a shorter and more specialised circuit and should be combined with aspects from the northern or southern circuit if time and resources allow.

Gombe Stream National Park

Situated on the northeastern shores of Lake Tanganyika, the tiny Gombe Stream National Park is one of only a few places in Tanzania where chimpanzees can be encountered in the wild. This intimate park sports exceptional biodiversity and is celebrated as the park where Jane Goodall first set up her now-famous research centre. Here, visitors can follow expert guides into the heart of the forest in search of our chimpanzee kin, admiring the many other primate species along the way.

A chimpanzee greets the setting sun in Gombe Stream

Mahale National Park

Also situated on the banks of Lake Tanganyika, Mahale National Park is substantially larger than Gombe, extending over the craggy Mahale Mountains and across rolling hills to the east. The forested western slopes are home to a substantial population of chimpanzees, with many families being the subjects of scientific study for over 50 years. And how better to celebrate a successful (and exhausting) day spent trekking for chimps than diving into the cool embrace of Lake Tanganyika’s crystal waters or lounging on its beaches, cocktail in hand?

Tanzania Western Safari Circuit — Picturesque Lake Tanganyika

Katavi National Park

Katavi National Park is one of Tanzania’s most electrifying African safari destinations, ruled by the cadence of the rainy season. During the late dry season, the park swelters beneath a merciless sun and its residents are forced to compete for access to the remaining water in a dramatic battle for survival. Visitors who venture here off the beaten safari track are rewarded with a natural African nirvana that they can enjoy all to themselves.

Tanzania’s eastern/coastal circuit

With all the excitement of an African safari, complete with early mornings, dusty roads and adrenaline-inducing sightings, it is well worth taking a few days to collect one’s emotions before returning home from Tanzania. And where better to do that than on one of the country’s paradise tropical beaches? Though the mainland offers some beautiful spots to soak in the sun, the islands off-shore provide the best seaside escapes.

Zanzibar Island

Zanzibar is the largest and most popular of Tanzania’s islands, renowned as a honeymoon destination and beach paradise. From dazzling beaches to the vibrant cultural hub of Stone Town, Zanzibar is an accessible and relatively affordable island Utopia.

Mafia Island

Less crowded and more exclusive than Zanzibar, Mafia Island offers the perfect place to soak up the resplendent marine scenery, including snorkelling, diving with whale sharks, and even watching hundreds of turtle hatchlings make their perilous first journey to the sea.

Pemba Island

Like Mafia Island, Pemba Island is quieter than Zanzibar, removed from the trappings of mass tourism. Its fertile soils support rolling hills covered with fruit-laden coconut, banana and cassava trees. The warm waters surrounding it are famous for their exceptional diving and snorkelling opportunities.

Final thoughts

No matter the safari circuit, Tanzania is a country that consistently delivers excitement and copious natural wonders to its fortunate visitors.

Unveiling the mysteries of the riverine rabbit

In recent years, studies have shown that riverine rabbits frequent areas far outside of the riverine habitats thought to be their main domain. But why has it taken so long to discover additional populations outside of the riverine habitats of the Nama-Karoo? What technologies have helped study their behaviour, and how can new methods of study impact conservation of the species? Christy Bragg explains how methods of gathering significant information about the species has changed over the years.

Riverine rabbits. With a name like that, one would expect these creatures to live near rivers, and up until a few years ago, they were indeed considered to be riverine-habitat specialists. This species was believed to be restricted to the shrubby alluvial floodplains of the rivers in the Nama-Karoo in South Africa. But then, someone pulled the rabbit out of the hat: a riverine rabbit was spotted in renosterveld vegetation (a vegetation type of the Cape Floristic Region), in the southern Cape, on a hillslope. It has since been spotted in many other habitat types, including succulent-Karoo plains in the southern Cape. Indeed, its scientific name, Bunolagus monticularis, gives us a clue about the different places it likes to live. “Monticularis” means mountainous. And these rabbits have since been found to frequent mountainous areas – and not just flat river plains.

What do we know about the riverine rabbit?

But what has caused the delay in discovering populations outside of the riverine areas of the Nama-Karoo? Firstly, the riverine rabbit is not easy to study. They are nocturnal, shy and, in the dark, resemble hares (such as the scrub hare and Cape hare). Secondly, studies done in the Nama-Karoo in the 1980s showed that the population might be declining due to the conversion of natural riverine habitat to agricultural lands. And thirdly, because they were not expected to be found outside the Karoo floodplains; searches for them outside this habitat have been limited.

Despite this, they have been recorded in the Touws River region in the southern Cape. Subsequently, they have been spotted in and around Anysberg Nature Reserve, a provincial reserve near Laingsburg (also in the southern Cape), and near Baviaanskloof in the Eastern Cape. Rabbit roadkill later alerted the conservation authorities to the presence of riverine rabbits near Uniondale, also in the southern Cape. Today, there’s another way to detect riverine rabbits: camera traps have significantly contributed to our understanding of this species’ ecology and distribution in recent years.

Surveying sensitive species

Through camera trap surveillance, the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT), has bolstered conservation efforts for the critically endangered riverine rabbit – having positioned at least a hundred camera traps in varying habitats to monitor the rabbits.

Before using camera traps, surveys for riverine rabbits were an intensive undertaking, where ten or more humans would walk through the habitat over several days, shouting and calling, hoping to flush a rabbit. But one camera trap in the hand is worth ten humans in the bush because a camera trap works 24/7. Now, using motion detection, these cameras are triggered to capture images of the rabbits in various habitats – providing invaluable insight into their secret lives.

Camera traps are the quiet, accurate observers in the habitat, scanning far more significant areas over more extended periods than walking-line surveys could ever accomplish.

Several camera trap studies have shown that the riverine rabbit is crepuscular, not purely nocturnal. This means they are more active during the dawn (early mornings) and dusk (late evenings). Some preliminary research also showed that rabbits and hares do not share habitat. This whet the interest of Dr Zoe Woodgate, from the University of Cape Town, who completed her doctorate on this fascinating rabbit. Woodgate wanted to know more about what determines the more peculiar habitat choices of the riverine rabbit, so she conducted her fieldwork in the Sanbona Wildlife Reserve, a private game reserve in the Western Cape.

Woodgate set up 150 cameras in 30 sites across the southern half of the reserve. This included setting up clusters of five cameras at each of the 30 sites to maximise detection of the species. Each group was spread over 15ha, and cameras were left out in the field for 45 days. She also measured some environmental factors, such as terrain ruggedness, site degradation (due to agricultural activities before the establishment of the reserve), and how close to drainage lines the rabbits occurred.

The results were intriguing. Firstly, she found that the territories of rabbits and hares did not overlap at all. Both hares and riverine rabbits had similar activity patterns, but although they were out and about at the same time of night, they did not live in the same places – likely due to the fact that they competed with one another.

The data also showed that the riverine rabbits were not closely associated with rivers. Woodgate’s model showed that rabbits are more affected by the presence of their competitors, the hares, than by rivers. She also noted that hares would choose living in less suitable terrain over sharing habitat with rabbits. Both hares and rabbits prefer level, rolling plains, but hares would choose less preferable terrain in areas where they co-occurred with rabbits. But what can be concluded from this? Do rabbits displace hares, or do hares outcompete rabbits?

There are mixed views. Some experts believe the hares are bigger and nastier and perhaps ‘bully’ rabbits out of their habitat. Some believe rabbits are the quiet kings of their habitat and displace hares to less preferable habitats. Only time and more research will tell.

Cameras, riverine rabbit conservation and wind farms

Camera traps are a critical component in the conservation toolbox. By setting up camera traps in more ‘unusual’ habitats, several new populations of riverine rabbits have been found, and more are expected to be discovered. Conservationists work with farmers and landowners to protect properties that host riverine rabbits under biodiversity stewardship or custodianship. These stewardships recognise landowners as the custodians of biodiversity on their land. And by protecting species such as riverine rabbits, their habitats are also protected – conserving many other plants and animals.

As South Africa increases its renewable energy supply, wind farm development proliferates in the Karoo. Camera traps have proven extremely useful for detecting whether this species occurs in proposed development areas. If firm evidence (from a camera trap) shows that a riverine rabbit is in the area, adequate mitigation measures can be implemented to protect the rabbit and its habitat. For example, turbines can be located a suitable distance from the rabbit’s habitat, and corridors can be developed to ensure its safe and secure movement through the landscape. However, more research is needed on how this species is affected by renewable energy development. For example, the jury is still out on whether the turbines’ noise impacts rabbit behaviour.

Roll on, riverine rabbit

Searching for the riverine rabbit is like a giant Easter bunny hunt, with more and more bunnies being discovered in unexpected hiding places every year. So, if you are ever exploring the rolling hills of the Cape provinces, near Loxton, Sutherland, Montagu, Touws River, Barrydale or even Worcester and Robertson, keep your eyes peeled for this Easter bunny. If you spot a rabbit-like creature, how will you know it’s a riverine rabbit and not a hare? The riverine rabbit has a telltale moustache, a dark black line on its chin, big, satellite-dish ears and hairy bunny-slipper feet. Also, watch for their fluffy tails, resembling a big brown powder puff (whereas the hares have scrawny, black-and-white tails). If you spot one, consider yourself lucky, as they are shy and secretive, and few people have had the privilege of seeing them in the wild.

References

Duthie, A.G. (1989), “Ecology of the Riverine Rabbit Bunolagus monticularis.” MSc dissertation, University of Pretoria, Pretoria.

Woodgate, Z., Distiller, G. and O’Riain, M.J. (2021). “Hare today, gone tomorrow: the role of interspecific competition in shaping riverine rabbit occurrence”. Endangered Species Research, 44 pp. 351-361.

THIS WEEK

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Use it or lose it + mongoose violence & other stories

‘Use it or lose it’ they chant from the sidelines – axes, guns and bulldozers at hand…

There is huge expectation in Africa that the remaining wild areas provide a variety of benefits for expanding local and regional human populations, IN ADDITION to high-level ecosystem services such as clean air, filtered water and sociocultural heritage.

Indeed many agitators draw hard lines in the sand, suggesting that these wild areas should be turned into something more immediately useful – such as timber, meat and farmland. That local communities need to benefit financially and culturally is non-negotiable, clear and obvious BUT how far can we push ecosystems to deliver to increasing demands and expectations?

Those of us in the wildlife industries are focussed on SUSTAINABLY utilising these precious remaining wild areas, and juggling many balls to ensure that local communities, wildlife and ecosystems benefit for the foreseeable future.

The photo safari industry has its challenges – including high capital setup costs, concession fees and staff overheads and a lengthy cashflow breakeven phase. And seasonality means months of no/low occupancies and losses. Also, the photo safari industry enjoys lower margins (and political support) than competing extractive industries such as mining, trophy hunting and hardwood extraction.

And yet teamAG would not consider any other vocation! This is our calling and our passion :-). Thanks for your safari bookings, donations to 3rd party campaigns and engagement with our stories – you fuel us to do what we do!

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Did you wake up and choose violence today? If you’re a female banded mongoose, the answer is probably yes. Banded mongooses – extremely social animals living in groups – are known for successful cooperative living. They forage, sleep, and defend and raise their offspring together.

But a study from a few years ago found that female banded mongooses will lead their rabbles into deliberate conflict with rival groups to increase their chances of mating with unrelated individuals. The females do this when they are in estrus – and the males of their group are grossly preoccupied with protecting their females. They use this state of distraction to incite violence with competitors and, during the chaos and confusion, mate with males from the newcomers. The sense of community is strong, but harmony – not so much…

Are you starting to plan your next December holiday? We have all the tips you need below. Plus, hamerkop’s nests are the largest bird nests (created by individual birds) in the world – but they aren’t the only ones using them! Read our second story for more.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/travel/december-safari-beaches-and-lush-bushveld
DECEMBER SAFARI
December is the month to seek out lush green landscapes, festive-season Cape Town & white sand beaches. Here’s all the tips you’ll need for your December safari

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/whos-been-sleeping-in-my-bed-hamerkop/
HAMERKOP NESTS
Hamerkops create the largest nests of any individual bird in the world. But other bird species use these nests for breeding

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

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Safari report back – Chitake Springs

Brenda Hobday travelled with AG to Chitake Springs in Mana Pools NP, Zimbabwe, for a photographic safari. Here’s her 5-star review about her time on safari!

“Africa Geographic arranged the most amazing photographic trip to Chitake Springs. Most memorable was the buffalo stampeding into the springs: experiencing the build up as we realised we were between the buffalo and the springs, wondering which shute they might choose, and then witnessing the charge down to the springs. This was closely followed by the back-lit baboons and the Lilian’s lovebirds drinking (and finding out later that the lions were watching us as we crawled the river bed while trying to capture water-level photos…). Definitely one for the top of the bucket list!”

Want to go to Chitake Springs? Book your safari with us here

WATCH: A ban on poaching has positively impacted the wildlife of Zakouma National Park, Chad. No elephants in the park have been poached since 2016. Actress and environmental activist Shailene Woodley travels to Zakouma to learn how rangers from African Parks work with locals to protect the land and help it thrive (2:49). Click here to watch

For more videos celebrating Africa, check out our videos here

Who’s been sleeping in my bed? New study identifies the bird species that use hamerkop nests for breeding

The hamerkop nest is an engineering work of astonishing proportions. Breeding pairs of these medium-sized wading birds spend months meticulously placing carefully selected sticks to create one of the largest nests of any individual bird in the world. However, not every bird species is as diligent when it comes to nest building, and sometimes, it is more energy-efficient to take advantage of the hard work of others. Scientists from the University of KwaZulu-Natal in South Africa have trawled through existing research and combined this with observational research to determine which species use hamerkop nests for breeding purposes.

In all fairness to the somewhat cheeky nest usurpers, building a nest is an activity that demands considerable investment in time and energy. Like cuckoos outsourcing chick rearing, opting for the easy route and avoiding construction fuss where possible is a sensible breeding strategy. And in nest terms, a hamerkop nest is positively palatial. These twig structures may measure over 1.5 metres in diameter, weigh over 50kgs, and can include 8,000 sticks. They include a sizeable internal chamber where chicks can be raised to fledging in relative luxury. It should come as no surprise that these structures offer appealing housing alternatives to other species. This is even more true because some hamerkop pairs are what researchers have termed “compulsive” nest builders and may construct and then abandon several nests every year.

So which birds have learned to adopt the natural version of possession being nine-tenths of the law? Using data from 18 different African countries, the authors found 251 reports of 20 bird species utilising hamerkop nests. Six of these – barn owls, knob-billed ducks, Egyptian geese, Dickinson’s kestrel and Verreaux’s eagle-owls – actively kicked the hamerkop pairs out of their nests. Knob-billed and African black ducks, Egyptian and African pygmy geese, Dickinson’s and grey kestrels, barn and Pel’s fishing owls and Verreaux’s eagle-owls were all found to utilise the inner chamber.

In contrast, spur-winged geese, several stork species, hooded vultures, martial eagles, and spotted eagle-owls were only observed using the top of the hamerkop nest. In some cases, the hamerkop pairs continued to occupy the inside of the nest while other species settled on the roof.

Keen to see hamerkops in the bushveld? Check out our many options for travelling in Africa. We have ready-made safaris to choose from – or ask us to build your perfect African safari just for you.

Most of the identified species can and do make nests of their own, suggesting that their use of hamerkop nests is mainly opportunistic. However, the barn owl – which was by far the most commonly reported species – does not make a nest at all and appears to be heavily reliant on hamerkop nests in some areas. There is a possibility that grey kestrels may also exclusively breed in hamerkop nests. The authors also emphasise that the list of species using these nests will likely be far more extensive than those identified in this paper. As such, they suggest that further in-depth field studies could be highly worthwhile.

Reference (available through a paywall)

Gula, J. and Downs, C. T. (2023) “Second-Hand Housing: A Review of Avian Species Using Hamerkop Nests for Breeding,” African Zoology, 58(1), pp. 1–5

THIS WEEK

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Fragile lion kingdoms + South African safari

As you read this, we are in Zambia’s Liuwa Plain National Park documenting the soon-to-be-launched Liuwa Camp. This awesome tented safari lodge is tucked away on a floodplain island under a shady canopy of tall trees. Every year at around this time the rains transform the landscape – sand lilies pop up like fireworks explosions, countless waterfowl arrive and Africa’s 2nd largest wildebeest migration takes place amidst a growing population of lions, hyenas, cheetahs and painted wolves.

This is the erstwhile home of that iconic lioness Lady Liuwa – who I was fortunate to spend time with shortly before her death at the venerable age of 17. Lady Liuwa founded what is now a healthy population of lions. Her story echoes the rise of Liuwa Plain NP, under the management of African Parks, as a conservation success story and wilderness destination for those looking beyond the Big 5 and rim-flow pools. Watch this space for more about Liuwa Camp and the community that will benefit directly from your visit.

Speaking of lions, thanks to those who have matched teamAG by sponsoring a research collar to help reduce incidents of human-lion conflict – and those who have donated (no amount too small). I know that many CEOs, team leaders, decision-makers and other inspirational people read our newsletter – join us in making a difference? This is a vital project if we wish to keep dispersing lions safe from the ultimate predator.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Does a starfish have a head? Scientists have for many decades been perplexed by the question of what comprises the head of a starfish. With their five identical arms, how can we tell which is the front, the back, the top, or the tail? One popular conclusion has been that the starfish does not have a head at all.

But a study has just found that the opposite is actually true. While analysing the gene signatures of juvenile sea stars, researchers found that those associated with head development could be found all over the bodies of the starfish, while genes that usually code for an animal’s torso and tail were missing. In short, starfish have evolved to lose their bodies, developing over time into nothing but hunting, crawling heads!

This week, we’re exploring the fragile kingdoms of Africa’s lions in our first story. In our second story, we’ve put together the ultimate guide to your next safari to South Africa – complete with a selection of ready-made safaris. See below.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/the-fragile-kingdoms-of-the-african-lion/
FRAGILE KINGDOMS
Lions are under threat. A new study examines the fragility of lion populations in Africa, probing socio-political & ecological factors

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/travel/places/south-africa
SOUTH AFRICAN SAFARI
A safari in South Africa offers the world in one country – from the Big 5 & lodges of Greater Kruger to the fine dining & pizazz of Cape Town

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Fancy a mobile safari in Botswana? Book now and you’ll save big time. Or plan that incredible beachfront holiday to KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. Read on, and reach out to our travel team now!

EARLY-BIRD SPECIAL – Botswana classic: fully catered mobile safari – $5,990pp (save 10%) – 10 nights
Explore all of northern Botswana during prime season on a fully catered mobile safari. Beginning in Kasane and ending in Maun, and led by experienced guides, you’ll track big cats and wild dogs, and meander along the Chobe River. Book this authentic Botswana safari experience today and don’t miss out on the early-bird special, high-season rate of US$5,990pp, valid for 7–17 July 2024.

Special offer: The Oyster Box, Umhlanga, South Africa
Book your stay for 2024 and take advantage of this Stay 4 pay 3 or Stay 3 pay 2 special offer. The Oyster Box’s lavish interior spaces are adorned with attractive original artwork and unique furnishings, and the beautiful tropical gardens create an oasis of tranquillity against the backdrop of the Indian Ocean. Special valid 14 Jan–12 Dec 2024 (excluding block out dates). Specific room types apply.

Collar a lion

You can help save free-roaming lions by taking part in our Collar a Lion campaign.

Why are GPS collars important for lion conservation?

Collars help researchers study the effects that fences have on spatial & social behaviours of wild lions.
They allow the monitoring and tracking of lion prides and their natural movement between protected areas and on park boundaries.
Collars provide an early-warning system to protect local villages from lions, safeguarding their cattle and aiding in wildlife management.

Become a lion warrior by sponsoring a collar. You will be making an essential impact on the preservation of future lion populations. Read more about how to contribute here.

WATCH: Wouldn’t you rather be on safari? Let Africa Geographic take you there. Check out these epic safari moments to inspire. Choose from our carefully curated safari packages or customise your own adventure with our travel team. Why wait? Start planning your perfect trip now! (0:45). Click here to watch

For more videos celebrating Africa, check out our videos here

The fragile kingdoms of the African lion

The African lion is an iconic symbol of Africa, associated with strength and majesty. In reality, the kingdom of the lion is under pressure. In a recent study, researchers have given us greater insight into what is causing concern for the remaining populations of the African lion.

Paws for thought

The African lion is classified as vulnerable on the IUCN Red List of threatened species;
There has been a 36% reduction in the species range in the last 21 years;
Population surveys estimate that ca. 20,000 to 25,000 lions are left in the wild;
There are only 62 remaining free-ranging wild lion populations remaining in Africa, less than half of which have over 100 lions;
Lions are now confined to 8% of their historic range distribution; and
There are marked differences in how well lions do across different populations. Lion populations in Botswana, for example, are thriving and have increased by 12%, but in West and Central Africa, populations have declined by a worrying 66%.

The bigger picture

Conservationists have for years described the risk of extinction for a species through quantifiable metrics, such as a change in habitat, numbers of mortalities, or percentage of the animal’s population in protected areas. But in a new study, Nicholson et al. (2023) point out that these measures are often based on assumptions. For example, just because an area has been declared a protected area by the authorities does not mean that protection is automatically conferred. Governance of protected areas varies across space and time; some reserves do not or cannot enforce this protection. Some countries do not have the resources to maintain anti-poaching units or effectively manage human-wildlife conflict. Context is always critical. In a reserve surrounded on all sides by livestock farmers, lions are more vulnerable to the consequences of human-wildlife conflict (due to lions preying on livestock) than lions in a reserve buffered by other reserves. Lions in a reserve in countries with stable political environments are more secure than lions in states facing political instability.

To integrate this notion of context, the authors introduce the concept of ‘fragility’. Fragility is, in essence, the opposite of resilience. The authors define fragility as the measure of how vulnerable to damage or harm a species is. Resilient populations bounce back after an adverse event. But fragile populations don’t.

Ecological fragility refers to those ecological factors that make a lion population vulnerable, such as lack of connectivity to other lion populations (this would impact genetic diversity and resilience to disease, etc). They then introduce the concept of socio-political fragility as defined by factors such as human population numbers, political stability and environmental policy. This novel way of assessing the fragility of different African lion populations gives conservationists a more realistic way of understanding which populations face high risk.

Where are the fragile lion populations?

Ethiopia’s Maze National Park lion population is ranked the most ecologically fragile due to its exposure to high cattle and human densities within the lions’ range. Other ecologically fragile geographic populations include Lake Manyara, Nechisar and Toro-Semiliki. In contrast, the lion populations in the Selous-Niassa (Tanzania and Mozambique) and Kavango-Zambezi (Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe) systems are considered the least ecologically fragile.

When the socio-political context is considered, however, the analysis reveals that the lion populations in Somalia and South Sudan are considered the most fragile, as they score low in governance and conservation-policy categories. From a socio-political perspective, South Africa, Namibia and Botswana lion populations are considered the least fragile.

The combination of ecological and socio-political fragility gives a different index; thus, a different perspective emerges. Overall, Somalia’s lion populations were evaluated as being the most fragile, Botswana’s the least. Sadly, almost half the countries that scored a high overall fragility comprise 39% of the lion’s range and were primarily located in the northern parts of Africa. Poor governance, population pressure, conflict and poverty are prevalent in these northern countries, and these factors hinder effective conservation.

Using the lens of context to describe the fundamental fragility of this species allows conservationists to make different choices in prioritising scarce resources. For example, the DRC and Cameroon had similar high overall fragility scores, but other factors drove their scores. Cameroon lions had more increased ecological fragility, whereas DRC lion populations were considered fragile because of high political conflict and instability. Therefore, conservationists could decide to direct resources into working with the ecological fragility in Cameroon, which would arguably have more impact and be more accessible than expending resources in the high-risk environment in the DRC.

Choosing which lions to save

Conservationists understand how to deal with ecological fragility. However, addressing the more complicated context of social and political barriers that limit effective lion conservation will require a different set of tools and encompass a far more comprehensive range of stakeholders. This would require levels of involvement from stakeholders such as policymakers, local traditional leadership, international role players and law enforcement. But tackling anthropogenic pressures at a national scale can take a long time.

The study raises interesting philosophical questions about our choices in conservation. Do we direct all our resources into the low-hanging fruit, i.e., the lion populations in stable, well-resourced countries? Is this a feasible long-term strategy? Do we ignore the small (<250) lion populations found in just under half of all lion-range countries in favour of larger populations? How do we do less harm by redirecting resources? Considering that the cost of effective lion conservation would exceed US$3 billion per year, based on rough estimates, how is raising this funding feasible when almost all African lion-range countries are in the top 50% (highest poverty) of the Global Multidimensional Poverty Index?

What is clear from the study is that more systemic interventions are needed in the lion conservation arena. This paper provides the first step in understanding more about the contextual threats facing our rapidly dwindling populations of the roaring icon of Africa.

You can help save wild, free-roaming lions by supporting our “Collar a lion” campaign – in partnership with the Southern African Conservation Trust. Read more here.

References

Nicholson, S.K., Dickman, A., Hinks, A. et al. (2023) “Socio-political and ecological fragility of threatened, free-ranging African lion populations,” Communications Earth & Environment 4, 302.

THIS WEEK

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Elephants vs trees + Expedition Matusadona

On my drive home yesterday I saw a leopard tortoise on the side of the road, his head submerged in a puddle of water from recent early summer rains. Not the tortoise in the epic image above. I parked the car and walked up to him (or her; I didn’t check), thinking he had drowned. On closer inspection I saw that he was sucking water in, eyes closed in ecstasy beneath the surface – his skinny pulsing neck the only sign of life. After about a minute his eyes popped open underwater. He jerked his head out of the water, stared at me myopically and trundled off. I sat for a few minutes reliving the moment, absorbing the energy of what that small temporary puddle of water meant to him.

I need another safari. Chat to you next week, from some very remote spot in Africa. In the meantime, maybe its also time for your next safari – ready-made or crafted just for you. Enjoy the planning process – it’s part of the journey!

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Did you know that an obscure species of rain frog, only ever seen once before, has just been found live and kicking on the north-west coast of South Africa? Branch’s rain frog was first described from a single specimen found in the Northern Cape in 2008, and has not been seen since. Until last week, that is – when the Endangered Wildlife Trust and other researchers rediscovered the frog while surveying priority habitats on the coast. After spotting tiny footprints in the sand dunes, the team tracked these and found not one, but two of the elusive frogs – a major success for future conservation work in the area!

This week we’re showcasing the second in a series of stories from Kingsley Holgate’s Afrika Odyssey expedition – this time on the renaissance of Matusadona National Park. And in some good news, Elephants Alive have found that wire netting can help save Africa’s tree from elephants. Read more in our second story.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/matusadona-a-renaissance-story/
EXPEDITION MATUSADONA
Kingsley Holgate & his Afrika Odyssey expedition team are connecting parks managed by African Parks. Read about their trip to Matusadona

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/net-win-saving-africas-trees-from-elephants/
WIRE NETTING TO SAVE TREES
New research shows that wire-netting can be used to increase tree survival by reducing elephant impact on large trees

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Journey to an island paradise in Malawi, or into the heart of the African bushveld in Zimbabwe. Both idyllic settings offer an irresistible chance to unwind and relax. Enquire today and let your African adventures begin!

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Escape to an uninhabited island paradise in Lake Malawi to switch off and detox. For the active, there is kayaking, snorkelling, swimming, scuba diving and walks in the stunning island forest. Or flop into a shady hammock and chill. You decide! This island escape is ideal for couples, families and even groups of friends.

Emerald season special – $450pppn – Somalisa Camp, Hwange NP, Zimbabwe
Nestled in the heart of Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe, this intimate tented bush camp provides the perfect setting for a relaxing safari experience with your loved ones. Book a minimum two-night stay and take advantage of this irresistible discount. Valid 1 November–21 December 2023 & 05 January–31 March 2024

Client report-back – Zambia & Vic Falls

Ulrich Schmauke recently returned from his trip to Kafue National Park, Lower Zambezi National Park, South Luangwa National Park and Victoria Falls with AG:

“Our trip to Zambia was unforgettable. I’ve never seen so much game as we did in just nine days. Sausage Tree Camp and Lion Camp were superb. Lunch in the Zambezi River, and in the bushveld, were unforgettable. Victoria Falls Hotel remains one of my favourite hotels in the world. Christian, as usual, organised the trip (he has organised a few for us before) and all worked out excellently.”

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WATCH: Moving an elephant family to safety. Watch as the Sheldrick Trust translocates a family of elephants – two moms and two calves – off community land and back to the safety of Kenya’s Tsavo East National Park (5:01). Click here to watch

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Resilience and renaissance in Matusadona

To reach Matusadona National Park, the second destination in the Holgate Foundation’s Afrika Odyssey expedition, we cross Botswana’s Tuli Block en route to Zimbabwe and set up a wild camp in community-owned cattle lands. There are still plenty of signs of wildlife around. As it’s the school holidays, the next generation of Holgate explorers – Kingsley Holgate’s grandkids Miabella and Scarlett – have come along on this chapter. They love expedition life and certainly add colour and humour to the journey.

As night falls, a clapped-out bakkie comes rattling down the dirt road, screeches to a stop in a cloud of dust and then bumps across to where we’re pitching our tents. Out tumble four friendly Tswana locals, a big-stomached jovial gent in a holey T-shirt is carrying a 12-bore shotgun. It turns out they’re the community’s anti-poaching/stock-theft brigade. “You are most welcome,” he says with a chuckle, “but please be careful – plenty of elephants around here.” The girls’ eyes go as round as saucers, and they quickly pull their chairs closer to the campfire.

Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.

We dislike busy commercial border crossings, so leave Botswana from the remote Mabolwe Border Post. “You can cross into Zimbabwe only when the Shashe River is dry,” says the friendly border official before selling us hot, fresh magwinyas (small doughnuts) baked by his wife. Then, we’re off across the wide, tree-lined, sandy riverbed. In the small 10mx10m Mlambapele Border Post office on the Zimbabwean side, we can only write good things in a dog-eared notebook marked ‘Compliments and Complaints’. Whilst we go through the rigamarole of checking passports and vehicle papers, Scarlett makes friends with a trussed-up black-and-white goat, which she names Oreo, much to the amusement of the locals, who have other plans for it. We’re the only border-crossers, and there are smiles all around. The entry stamp comes down with a thump – welcome to Zimbabwe!

Elephants rushing to the shores of Lake Kariba

Zigzag to Matusadona

Across Matabeleland we encounter donkey carts, baobabs, friendly smiles and waves from kids in wide-brimmed, school-issue sun hats. We follow little-used dirt tracks through cattle country to enter the Matopos from the south. Our safari sees us camping amongst wildlife with forever views over this ancient place. At sunset, we sit quietly amongst the huge, lichen-covered granite boulders where ley lines are said to interconnect. Iridescent green-blue lizards scuttle over the rockface, and elephant shrews dash between the smooth, round boulders glowing gold in the fading light. A black eagle soars overhead, and the only sound to be heard is birdsong carried on the wind. There’s magnetic energy here.

We dodge potholes down to Mlibizi on the southern shoreline of Lake Kariba, where, around the evening campfire, we chat about our past expeditions on the Zambezi – our favourite river.

The final zigzag to our safari in Matusadona National Park is an adventure, and we pass giant, centuries-old baobabs and neat Batonka villages. We navigate narrow bridges with dangerously crumbling sides. Mopane flies share our roadside lunch of tuna sarmies with tomatoes bought at a village market. We stop at a roadside craft stall and purchase a small, hand-carved wooden rhino from a Batonka craftsman, which we symbolically name ‘Dona’. Miabella buys a little wooden pangolin and calls it ‘Halo’. Black rhinos were once such an iconic species in the Zambezi Valley until poaching wiped them out, and pangolins are now the most trafficked animal in the world. How interesting that, out of this region’s iconic wildlife, the craftsman had chosen to carve these two endangered species.

Resilience

Matusadona means ‘where the dung falls’, referring no doubt to the steepness of this incredibly wild and beautiful escarpment that sharply drops 600m to the Kariba shoreline far below. It is said that on occasion, a round dung dropping can tumble far down the steep, well-pounded elephant tracks that crisscross this ancient gateway. In the rainy season, these tracks transform into a wonderland of waterfalls and adventure-filled treks through deep gorges.

Travelling into Matusadona National Park, we expect a difficult, rough and rocky track from the top of the escarpment to the Kariba lakeshore below. But then we witness something remarkable that this part of the world hasn’t seen in years. It’s a big, noisy, yellow and powerful endangered species: a brand new grader. Thanks to African Parks now managing this venerated Zimbabwean park, the machine is hard at work making the steeply sloping road easily passable, providing a further incentive for 4×4 travellers to make this fascinating journey.

Find out about Zimbabwe for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.

Matusadona offers adventure in 147,000ha of wilderness. Apart from the newly restored lodges and serviced campsites, there are also genuinely wild, unfenced 4×4 sites. We come across some overlanders wild camping next to an inlet of Lake Kariba. Nearby, two big male lions feed on a dead hippo as squabbling vultures scrabble for a foothold in the surrounding trees. A substantial crocodile cruises out into deeper water festooned in green water hyacinth, a single, pale purple flower comically perched above one primaeval eye. We encounter a safari roadblock on the track down to Tashinga Camp – as lions block our path. At the camp, park manager Mike Pelham and his wife Tracey are waiting to welcome us. Surrounded by impala and visited by the occasional elephant, we pitch camp under the spreading branches of giant sycamore fig trees on the shoreline of Lake Kariba.

In the morning, we head to the operations room, where we meet the team from the Matusadona Conservation Trust (MCT) – a vibrant partnership between ZimParks and African Parks that began in 2019. “I’ve never seen people work so hard to become part of the new MCT,” remarks Mike, as members of the law enforcement corps snap to attention. Tough, intelligent, disciplined and committed, the challenges of restoring this park are immense for Mike and his staff: fish and bushmeat poaching, illegal gold panning up in the mountains, destructive fire-burns and human-wildlife conflict. The challenges of restoring the Matusadona ecosystem, protecting the pristine rivers and springs on the escarpment and rebuilding community relationships are all taken in stride. To top it all off, there is also the training up a first-class law enforcement team that will ensure the protection of black rhinos and other vital species when the time comes for them to be re-introduced.

“There’s immense pride here; we don’t compromise on what’s become known as ‘Matusadona quality’. Resilience is the key attribute that we look for in all our staff,” Mike tells us as he stands in front of a map that shows the ruggedness of the park’s terrain, the Kariba shoreline and surrounding community districts. “As you know, things have been tough here in Zim, so a good job, decent living conditions and being paid on time means a lot. We’re also extremely fortunate to have the full support of ZimParks and excellent cooperation with the National Judiciary’s dedicated Wildlife Directorate. Despite the difficulties of the past few years, these two departments have remained solid.”

“But in today’s world, conservation cannot be successful without the support of neighbouring communities,” he continues. “So a big focus of the MCT is working with community structures and district councils to build knowledge and ensure that local people also benefit from Matusadona.” And this is where the African Parks model of community involvement is outstanding. Daniel Sithole, Matusadona’s Community Manager, tells us that tomorrow is Umuganda Day – an idea taken from the Rwandan practice of people coming together once a month to engage in community outreach and help one another.

DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.

The expedition team is all hands-on deck. The following morning, we load one of the expedition Defenders onto a small ferry and chug across the Ume River, pushed along by a noisy, belt-driven, single-cylinder engine to Masamba Fishing Camp. This is one of two commercial livelihood projects on the lakeshore, which have seen a seven-fold increase in the catch thanks to the MCT’s efforts to protect the legal permit holders and stop fish-poaching syndicates from plundering the Matusadona shoreline.

Jovial Chief Mola and the village councillors greet us warmly before we all get to work to give the community hall a colourful makeover. Dirty walls are cleaned and painted, and then, using the ample stencils we’ve brought from SA, the building is transformed into a kaleidoscope of colour with a wildlife theme. Rhino, elephant, giraffe, zebra, lion, cheetah and buffalo, and ‘Musoma Hall’ in big, bold letters are all painted onto the walls. It’s great to see the enthusiasm of the Matusadona staff and camp residents, all wanting their turn with a paint brush, as school children sit in the shade of a big knob-thorn tree, putting the finishing touches to their Wildlife Art assignments. There are bright colours, laughter and smiles all around with Chief Molo presenting simple prizes – building bridges between conservation and communities.

There’s so much good stuff to do and such a good vibe that the Umuganda events stretch into the next two days with Daniel and his community team. There are malaria-prevention drives for pregnant women and mothers with young children, and the distribution of reading glasses to poor-sighted elderly folk at local clinics. Then there is the decorating of the walls of Matusadona Primary School inside the tidy and freshly-painted staff village, and the judging of the regional finals of the children’s Wildlife Art Competition – all with an exciting conservation theme.

Children from the community colour in for the Wildlife Art competition

Conducting eye tests at the local clinic

Tired, dirty and covered in paint, we stagger back to camp each evening. We love the golden glow of the sunsets over Kariba with views across to Bumi Hills. Lions roar at the full moon, we hear grunting hippos, and there is a hyena skulking in the shadows, hoping we’ve left the camp kitchen door open. Around the campfire at night, we get to chat more with Mike and his Matusadona team. We also meet fascinating characters like Richard and Gilly Thornycroft from the Flying For Wildlife Trust, who arrive in their light sport aircraft to fly volunteer aerial patrols. We listen intently to their stories of hope for the future of this magnificent piece of Africa.

Renaissance

One morning, there’s much excitement at the park’s headquarters: a large herd of buffalo has appeared on the Matusadona shoreline for the first time in weeks. “The staff say they can’t believe how the animals are returning to the lakeshore,” says Mike with a grin. “The wildlife isn’t scared anymore – even elephants with tiny babies are revealing themselves again.” What a wonderful sign of this legendary park’s renaissance.

Animals such as buffalo are returning to the lake shore

As always, some symbolic traditions are linked to this Afrika Odyssey expedition. Carrying his rifle as if it’s an extension of his body and reading faint tracks and signs, Mike gives us short cameos of wildlife movements as we track through the mopane woodland to a secret pool fed by the springs that bubble out of the Matusadona escarpment. It’s a beautiful spot; a hippo explodes through the long grass and scrambles up the opposite bank. Mike draws us into a huddle and, in a whisper, says, “In the old days, when Matusadona was a black rhino stronghold, I tracked many of them to their favourite secret drinking pools just like this one.” He reverently dips the expedition calabash into the crystal-clear pool. He collects a thimbleful of symbolic water – a ceremony that will take place in all 22 protected areas managed by African Parks on our 12-country journey.

Collecting water from a pool fed by the springs of the Matusadona escarpment, to add to the symbolic expedition calabash

There’s a strong smell of elephant. We come across a mound of fresh dung, the leaves and grasses hardly chewed – a sign of old age and few teeth. Mike silently tracks forward and points out an elderly elephant cow, her bony head just visible as she browses from a tamarind tree, oblivious to our presence.

As we return to the road, Mike bends down and grabs a fistful of foliage from a grey-green shrub. “This is wild basil, which, along with many other herbs and plants that grow here, makes Matusadona a great habitat for black rhino. One day, if all goes according to plan and the communities approve, we’ll have them back here. It will be a full circle as they will be the progeny of the original Zambezi Valley black rhino, removed 30 years ago to places of safety to protect their genealogy – along with sable and roan antelope and eland, which are also needed to restore the entire ecosystem. When that happens, Matusadona will become an anchor of safety and security – not just for wildlife, but for the wider community. That’s our 10-year goal.”

Matusadona is becoming a safe zone for wildlife such as lions

It’s with a degree of sadness that in the expedition Defenders, we climb back up and over the escarpment trailing clouds of dust. Matusadona has touched our hearts, and we feel like we’ve had a master class in conservation excellence. That night, back on the Zambezi at Deka, we take out the expedition’s Scroll of Peace and Goodwill for Conservation and read the handwritten messages from the Matusadona team.

Mike writes: “The adventure of rebuilding Matusadona has started, and I am incredibly proud that it will be restocked from other protected areas within Zimbabwe. The biggest gift that you can provide from this Afrika Odyssey expedition is to spread the news that Matusadona and Zimbabwe overall are still on the conservation map. Wilderness areas and the possibility for true adventure still exist, and our greatest asset – our people – are friendlier and more welcoming than ever.”

We certainly second that. With a sense of excitement, we continue our journey to connect these irreplaceable African Parks-managed areas across the continent. A great story of hope is unfolding.

Net win – saving Africa’s trees from elephants

South Africans have a peculiar affinity for large, iconic trees. The country’s Limpopo province is home to Africa’s tallest tree and the second thickest tree in the world. South Africa even boasts its own Champion Trees Projects since 1998, run by the Department of Water Affairs and Forestry. Landowners and nature enthusiasts throughout the country are exceptionally proud – and rightly so – of the large trees on their properties and in the nature parks they visit, as they make for iconic landmarks and provide shelter to all kinds of species that call the savannah home. Are you wondering how to best protect trees from elephant damage? Which methods work and when? New research, originally published by Elephants Alive, may have the answers.

The threats faced by trees: elephants and other agents

Where nature reserves house elephants, Africa’s largest land mammal is often singled out as the leading cause of destruction of the large trees with which they share the landscape. Elephants break trees to get easier access to the leaves, roots and nutrients. They also remove the bark to access the nutritious cambium layer underneath. As bark often strips off circularly around the trunk, this may lead to ring barking, causing the tree to die off as the cambium layer is responsible for transporting nutrients upwards from the soil. Yet, elephant feeding on trees has been found to benefit other species: dispersing seeds in fertile dung and improving plant diversity by opening up grassland areas, to name a few. However, elephants are selective about the tree species and heights they forage on, and their presence can eliminate certain tree species or height classes from an area over time. This can have cascading effects on other species that depend on these trees, like raptors or vultures nesting in tall trees.

Besides elephants, tree survival in African savannahs can also be affected by other ecological factors, like fire frequency and intensity, termite infestation, and drought stress. High fire frequencies can negatively affect woody biomass and the regeneration of large tree saplings. Drought stress can cause hydraulic failure and vulnerability to biotic attacks, leading to large tree declines even without the presence of elephants. Smaller herbivores, like impala, have been found to decimate great numbers of tree seedlings, thus negatively affecting tree regeneration.

A divisive debate ensues, where concerns about elephants as an endangered species and their role in preserving biodiversity are juxtaposed with the wish and need to preserve large trees as Africa’s natural landmarks. The complex interactions between elephants, other ecological factors, and tree survival in African savannahs have been causing headaches for conservationists and reserve management for decades. Different strategies have been implemented to limit or redistribute elephant impact to protect large trees. For instance, as elephant foraging is primarily centred around water sources, reducing the number of water points may limit the overall effect of localised destruction and population growth.

Protecting large trees: what & how?

Trees may also be directly protected using “wire-netting” to prevent elephants from stripping the bark, which can facilitate tree mortality from various other causes. Wire-netting has previously been found to improve large-tree survival significantly. Highly cost-effective due to the affordability of materials and ease of application, wire netting can be applied en-masse to protect large amounts of trees at little cost. However, little is known regarding the lifespan of wire netting if not maintained and how effective it is as a long-term tree-protection solution.

Offering an answer to this uncertainty, a newly released study by Elephants Alive shows how wire-netting and various environmental factors, combined with the impact of elephants, influence the survival of large trees. The research offers a better understanding of the conservation challenges that reserve management faces while protecting large trees.

The study was conducted over 12 years in the Associated Private Nature Reserves (APNR) in South Africa. The APNR shares an unfenced boundary west of the Kruger National Park. The Elephants Alive research team, led by Dr. Michelle Henley and Robin Cook, conducted field assessments of 2,758 trees in 2008, 2012, 2017, and 2020. The tree species under investigation were false marula, knobthorn, and marula trees. Approximately half (or 1,395 trees) were wire-netted at the beginning of the study period.

The main goals of the study were to:

Investigate how many of each type of tree survived over the 12 years in the APNR.
Examine whether using wire netting to protect the trees affected their survival during the same 12-year period.
Understand how various environmental factors (drought, fire), combined with the impact of elephants, influenced the survival of these trees during three different surveys conducted within the 12-year timeframe.

During their field assessments, the researchers recorded the diameter of the tree trunk, fire damage, presence of termites, ants and bracket fungus, the level of elephant impact on each tree, whether the tree had wire netting, the condition of the wire netting, and its survival status. For each year, the researchers also collected data on the mean annual rainfall closest to the trees’ location, elephant-bull and breeding-herd densities, and the distance to the nearest surface waterhole.

Wire-netting to the rescue: a simple solution to a complex issue?

In total, 33% of trees survived the 12-year study period. The distance to water sources did not significantly affect tree mortality, as the multitude of artificial waterholes in the APNR provides ready access to water. This finding emphasises the importance of other methods to limit the detrimental effects of elephant impact on large trees in areas where limiting water sources isn’t an option.

The study showed that using wire netting significantly improved the survival of large trees. Wire netting prevents elephants from bark-stripping, but the trees remain vulnerable to heavier forms of elephant impact like stem snapping and uprooting. Wire-netting is thus most successful for trees with a more than 40cm diameter. The method of wire-netting is a second important aspect of the success rate. Nevertheless, the effectiveness of wire-netting decreased after four years if the netting lost its structural integrity. Over one-fifth of the wire-netted trees in the study had damaged or fallen-off chicken mesh, making the wire-netting ineffective against bark-stripping. This highlights that wire netting can lose its effectiveness if not properly maintained. Conservation managers should consider replacing the chicken mesh after about four years to ensure continued tree protection.

The researchers also discovered tree survival was lowest during drought, particularly for false marula and knobthorn. This suggests that drought can negatively affect the survival of these tree species. Elephants, mainly, increase their impact on trees during drier months when grass quality decreases. This impact may be further amplified for trees with shallow rooting systems (like false marula and knobthorn), making them vulnerable to water stress and competition for soil water compared to trees with deeper roots. An increased percentage of dead marula trees during the final survey period (2018-2020) may be attributed to a fire that affected the area where many of these trees were located. Adult marula trees are particularly susceptible to intense fires, especially after experiencing elephant impact.

Left: A marula tree with wire netting and termite damage (the reddish mud covering the bark). Right: Elephant reaching for higher branches

Elephants Alive’s research provides evidence of how the complexity of environmental factors has affected the mortality trends of three large tree species within the APNR savannah system over 12 years. The results show that wire-netting can be used as a mitigation method to significantly increase tree survival by reducing elephant impact on these trees. However, conservation managers must replace wire netting every four years to maintain efficiency. The results have also shown that tree survival was positively affected by an increase in mean annual rainfall (for false marula and knobthorn) and negatively affected by fire events (marula trees). These results provide important insights into how various environmental factors have influenced large tree survival where trees co-occur with elephants.

Reference

Cook, R. M., Witkowski, E. T. F. and Henley, M. D. (2023) “Survival Trends (2008-2020) of Three Tree Species in Response to Elephant Impact, Environmental Variation, and Stem Wire-Netting Protection in an African Savannah,” Forest Ecology and Management, 545

Article originally published by Elephants Alive (read Battle of the Titans: Africa’s largest land mammal vs Africa’s largest trees here)

THIS WEEK

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Questionable desert-adapted lion hunt + wild pigs

The most frustrating part of our mission to tell Africa’s stories warts-and-all is trying to unearth the facts when members of the wildlife industries appear to have behaved badly. Our story below about the latest trophy hunting of a livestock-killing Namibian desert-adapted lion is a case in point.

The lack of transparency; in fact let’s call this what it is – a blanket of secrecy – is not conducive to finding solutions to the many problems that beset our wild places as humans and wildlife vie for territory. During our attempts to determine two critical issues – how the trophy hunters found this lion in that vast desert and where he was killed – we were stonewalled by those who have the info and the mandate to communicate and validate the facts so that there is no speculation. Both issues go to the core of whether this was a legal hunt. Legality is important in the quest for sustainable solutions, right?

Based on the facts at hand, we stand by our deductive reasoning as detailed in the article, but I have assured the Namibian powers-that-be that we will amend the article and issue a public statement if any requested contradictory evidence comes to light – via official or other channels.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

The dead walk among us. Or, at least, zombie ants do. Did you know that Ophiocordyceps unilateralis (cordyceps for short) – the zombie-making fungus featured in The Last of Us – is real?

The parasitic fungus infects carpenter ants, where its spores are picked up by the ant on the rainforest floor (check out this zombie ant in Sapo National Park, Liberia). In an extraordinary feat of mind control, the fungus forces the ant to leave the safety of its nest, climb to a height and lock its mouth around a leaf, before growing and then feeding off the ant’s vital organs. Luckily, this parasitic fungi cannot infect humans (for now…).

This week, don’t miss our incredibly important story on the questionable hunting of a desert-adapted lion, and our comprehensive guide to the many wild pigs of Africa – both below.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/trophy-hunted-namibian-desert-adapted-lion-here-are-the-facts/
TROPHY HUNT
A male desert-adapted lion has been hunted amidst suspicious circumstances in Namibia – we ask questions of MEFT

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/the-wild-pigs-of-africa/
WILD PIGS
Our guide to the six species of wild pigs in Africa: from warthogs, to bushpigs, hogs and boars

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Questionable desert-adapted lion hunt + wild pigs

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld