As I passed beneath the arches of Gowrie Gate into the Sabi Sands Game Reserve, I was hit by an unexpected wave of overwhelming nostalgia. The reserve had been my home on and off for nearly five years, and every second tree and termite mound brought back another precious memory. But nostalgia rapidly turned to excitement when I remembered my purpose for this visit – six days of glorious exploration lay ahead, a chance to share my love for the reserve and its inhabitants with my special group of guests partaking in this Africa Geographic leopard safari.
Summer loving
January can be a tricky month for Lowveld safaris. The vegetation is lush and dense, water is plentiful, and tracking is almost impossible in places. It is often hot and humid, prey species disperse, and predators either cover huge distances at night or are comatose in the shade during the day. Of course, there are rich compensations for these minor challenges: the glorious contrasts of green and gold, baby animals finding their feet around every corner and the cheerful call of the woodland kingfishers providing the crack of dawn trill. It is a magnificent time to visit the bushveld for genuine nature lovers. Fortunately, ours was a group of well-seasoned safari-goers with enough experience and insight to appreciate the majesty of the unfolding summer.
The gang’s all here – our little group in the expert company of Ralph and Chris from Jaci’s Sabi House.
Our bushveld retreat
One of the highlights of this exclusive safari was having our lodge – Jaci’s Sabi House – all to ourselves. This meant we had complete control of the schedule. Want to enjoy the cool mornings? No problem, we just shifted our start time even earlier, departing at 5.00 am and returning only when the heat and hungry bellies finally chased us back to the refuge of the lodge. Similarly, afternoon drives started as early as the temperatures allowed. It was a pleasure to find myself in the company of like-minded individuals, and all thoughts of sundowners were abandoned in favour of letting the Sabi Sands work its magic.
Elephants are one of my favourite animals to view on a summer’s day, as they are frequently in search of a good mud bath to keep cool
Why waste a moment of that potential? By the time we arrived at the lodge each night, the day’s excitement had made the already delicious three-course meals taste like heaven on earth. We ate beneath the star-spangled sky, serenaded by roaring lions and the iconic whoops of spotted hyenas.
We enjoyed our scrumptious brunches on the lodge deck overlooking the dam, and on one occasion, we were interrupted by the appearance of elephants at the water’s edge. In ones and twos, they emerged from the treeline, doing the excited elephant “water walk” and swinging their trunks in anticipation. Soon, the waterhole was surrounded, and elephants everywhere were drinking, playing or greeting each other with low rumbles. The last of the bacon was abandoned as we watched, mesmerised, before they melted back into the vegetation, leaving the very affronted family of Egyptian geese in peace.
The dam outside Jaci’s Sabi House provides many opportunities for intimate sightings
Leopard, leopard everywhere
Not for nothing is the Sabi Sands considered one of the leopard capitals of Africa, and it certainly lived up to its reputation for our leopard safari. We saw four different leopards over the six-day sojourn, and nearly every drive delivered a rosetted pelage for our indulgence. Yet the quality of these sightings, not the quantity, made the experience truly special. (It is worth mentioning this was due in part to the patience of our wonderful guests, who were happy to wait for the sleepy cats to move rather than barrel around from sighting to sighting.)
Langa – one of the stars on our leopard safari- looking the picture of comfort shortly before her encounter with a hyena. (You can see more of Lisa’s images by following @lisa.antell)
The stars of our trip were two young leopards – a female called Langa (“sun”) and a male known as Maribye (“rocks”). Both are on the cusp of maturity, with Langa set to carve out her territory and Maribye soon to begin the dangerous business of dispersal in search of a space of his own. From a viewing perspective, this is a wonderful age because young leopards are still full of energy and personality, capable predators but still learning the vital rules of survival.
Young male leopard Maribye climbed to dizzying heights in a jackalberry tree
Langa impressed us with her poise, focus and uncanny ability to strike the perfect pose for our eager photographers. However, her dignity was decidedly ruffled when she was chased up a skinny apple-leaf tree by two very determined hyenas. We could hardly believe it when the situation repeated itself two days later, though she sought refuge in a rather uncomfortable-looking russet bushwillow this time around.
Langa showing off her impala lamb kill in the last rays of the setting sun
By contrast, Maribye was insouciant, bordering on comical. His belly was perpetually full (probably due to the seasonal influx of impala lambs), but he still entertained us by pouncing on emerging termite alates one evening. On another hot afternoon, we found him lying on the damp mud on the side of the road, presumably trying to cool off somewhat. He then led us into a nearby drainage line where he had stashed his latest meal. Following this, he treated everyone to a display of the renowned leopard agility by leaping from bough to bough of a jackalberry tree towering over our vehicle.
Our trip also yielded two different wild dog (painted wolf) encounters – both accompanied by the usual chaos in trying to keep up with these athletic predators
In between our leopard sightings, we were diverted by several performances from the supporting cast of Sabi Sand mammals, birds, insects and reptiles. These included a zebra stallion chasing a pack of wild dogs (known affectionately as the “6-pack”) and several brand-new elephant calves, still pink about the ears. Other highlights were a herd of mud-splattered buffalo, one determined fork-tailed drongo intent on scalping a distinctly miffed brown snake eagle, and two directionally confused teenage elephants.
A fish eagle takes flight during a pleasant hour spent bird watching at one of the region’s larger waterholes
Walking on sunshine
And just like that, the six days of our leopard safari that had stretched ahead of me when I arrived were over and done, and it was time to bid my guests farewell. This I did with no small degree of regret – time spent in the bushveld is always a great bonding experience, and the long hours driving through the reserve had provided countless opportunities for fascinating conversation. In the heart of Sabi Sands, we spoke about everything from conservation and politics to the state of the world and our hopes for the future. But for the most part, we were light-hearted and cheerful, entertained by our in-jokes and sheltered by the bubble of the wilderness around us, the perfect soul-refresher ahead of a new year.
“No wait, please don’t take a photograph, I’m still chewing my breakfast…”
A five-week-old lion cub examining the world. Thornybush Private Game Reserve, South Africa.
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
Cheetahs to India + best pics + Mara safari
I am deep within Rwanda’s stunning Akagera National Park on a journey of discovery; prepping for Ukuri – our upcoming partnership with African Parks. Ukuri means ‘truth’ or ‘authentic’ in the Kinyarwanda language spoken across Central and East Africa. Next stop is breathtaking Nyungwe National Park!
A huge thanks to those who have registered to be advised once we go live with Ukuri. It would appear that the appetite for reasonably priced responsible safaris is healthy. If you are hearing about this for the first time, please read my editorial of last week.
Two quotes resonated with me this past week; perhaps they do so for you?
“Facts don’t care about your feelings” – Ben Shapiro
“As scary as it gets it’s just turbulence” – Pink
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
MAASAI MARA MIGRATION SEASON – 7 days – From US$4,585pps
Experience the Great Wildebeest Migration in Kenya with this carefully crafted itinerary. Stay at Sentinel Mara Camp, perched on the high banks of the Mara River in a cool riverine forest, and explore Musiara Marsh and Paradise Plains – known for their excellent cat sightings.
ART ON SAFARI – 7 days – From ZAR60,150pps
Join this popular art safari in Big 5 Timbavati, Greater Kruger – and hone your skills with professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls. Soak up the peace of the wild, create art on game drives, and enjoy a peaceful stay at Kambaku Safari Lodge. There are only three spaces left, so don’t hesitate to book!
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
This week I am quite taken with our action-packed Photographer of the Year gallery. There are some fantastic pics: from the image of an airborne hyena bursting out of the battle scene surrounding a giraffe kill (which reminds me of an Inferno-esque Renaissance painting) to various scenes of skirmishes and combat; from displays of showmanship to incredible captures of colour, depth and culture from the continent. See this week’s gallery below.
Our second story is a fascinating and poignant read. The reintroduction of cheetahs to India is dividing conservationists. A second group of southern African cheetahs has just made their journey across the world to Kuno National Park. Is this an ecologically unsound vanity project or a conservation victory for cheetahs, and for Indian ecosystems? Read more in our story.
Did you know that there are fewer than 12 Asiatic cheetahs (Acinonyx jubatus venaticus) left in the wild? This according to a statement from the Iranian Department of Environment at the start of 2022. A few days ago, the only cub in captivity died of kidney failure.
As I was sifting through the controversy surrounding the translocation of southern African cheetahs to India (which you can read about in our second story below), this fact struck me as unbearably sad. And it was so under-emphasised by the media attention surrounding Project Cheetah.
Asiatic cheetahs are now, for all intents and purposes, extinct – vanished from this planet with barely a ripple of concern. And those conservationists that dedicated their lives to protecting the last of them? Some of them languish in prison, and one has died, because their camera-trap monitoring techniques were decreed “spying” by the Iranian judicial system. Where was their outcry?
WATCH: Farmer Jennifer Cloete farms sheep and goats in the mountains of the Kamiesberg, South Africa. But the wetlands her livestock graze are vulnerable. With the help of Conservation South Africa, farmers like Jennifer are able to find alternative ways to access water when the wetlands need to recover (01:58). Click here to watch
A cheetah bound for India in a South African quarantine facility, prior to translocation
On Saturday, the 18th of February, 12 more southern African cheetahs landed in India to join eight of their cohorts in Kuno National Park. Theoretically, these trailblazing cheetahs are intended to herald the long-term return of wild cheetahs to India. This project has divided conservationists along academic, ethical and philosophical lines. Critics have labelled the reintroduction “ecologically unsound”, “a vanity project”, and “grossly expensive”. Equally, experts with abundant experience in cheetah conservation have thrown their weight behind the project, highlighting the importance of restoring cheetahs to parts of their historic range and the potential benefits to Indian conservation.
Cheetahs have been extinct in India for over seven decades, but plans for their return have been afoot for many years. The first eight individuals from Namibia (after a period in quarantine) made the journey to Kuno National Park in September 2022. Amid the media furore over Project Cheetah, two groups of highly esteemed scientists – one for and one against – penned their opinions in correspondence published in Nature Ecology & Evolution. Each article neatly summarises the arguments put forward in various publications since the arrival of the first cheetahs. Read together, they highlight the complexities of the issues at play.
The argument against Project Cheetah
The first article, published in December 2022, is titled “Introducing African cheetahs to India is an ill-advised conservation attempt” and was authored by a group of experienced big-cat conservationists and scientists (Gopalaswamy et al., 2022). Many of the authors have been critical of the project since its inception. They argue that the costly plan has the potential to serve as a “distraction” instead of aiding global cheetah conservation.
Though there has yet to be scientific consensus on subspecies divisions, the Cat Classification Task Force of the IUCN Cat Specialist Group recognised four distinct subspecies of cheetah. Of these, the Southeast African cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus jubatus) and the Asiatic cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus venaticus) are relevant to the debate at hand. Before their extinction, the cheetahs found in India would have been Asiatic cheetahs. At present, the only remaining Asiatic cheetahs are found in Iran and are classified as Critically Endangered. In the opinion of Gopalaswamy et al. (2022), there are unknown ecological, disease and genetic risks associated with replacing Asiatic cheetahs with African ones.
The authors indicate that the plan to translocate cheetahs from Africa to India is based on three unsubstantiated claims. The first is that cheetahs have run out of space in Africa, the second is that India has sufficient space and habitat to support a cheetah population, and, finally, that translocations have successfully restored cheetah range in the past.
They cite contemporary research from the Maasai Mara from one of the authors (Dr Femke Broekhuis) that shows that cheetahs utilise disproportionately large home ranges and occur at low population densities. The authors argue that this, along with (presumably) declining cheetah numbers in Africa, makes them unsuitable as a source population for translocations. Based on this research, they also believe that the studies in Kuno National Park for the action plan may have substantially overestimated the carrying capacity. According to the action plan, the calculated carrying capacity was based on a density estimate from Namibia, which Gopalaswamy et al. (2022) suggest is outdated and possibly inaccurate.
The site of the first cheetah translocations – Kuno National Park – is a 748 km2 (74,800 hectares) park located just over 300km south of Delhi. It is unfenced and surrounded by densely populated villages and farms. Gopalaswamy et al. (2022) imply that the size and surrounding anthropogenic pressures (along with some 500 feral cattle within the park) make it a poor habitat choice for the cheetahs. Furthermore, they argue that the other destinations named in the action plan for future translocations are equally inappropriate.
Gopalaswamy et al. (2022) also distinguish between “free-ranging” and “fenced-in” cheetahs. Most cheetahs in South Africa and many from Namibia come from smaller fenced reserves. These animals cannot naturally immigrate or emigrate, so the populations must be intensively managed. The cheetahs sourced for the translocations came from such a setup. The authors write that to the best of their knowledge, they know of no reintroduction successes where fenced-in cheetahs have been successfully reintroduced into an unfenced area, even within Africa. They argue that where these fenced-in populations are managed independently without achieving self-sustaining populations, there will be an urgency to find release sites that could “trigger unplanned, hastily executed translocation programmes”.
They write that they anticipate that “adopting such a speculative and unscientific approach will lead to human-cheetah conflicts, death of the introduced cheetahs or both, and will undermine other science-based species recovery efforts, both globally and within India”.
Instead, the scientists call on India to redirect the nearly US$ 60 million total cost of Project Cheetah towards global cheetah conservation efforts, including habitat protection and connectivity and enhancing human-cheetah relations in Iran, Africa, or both. Alternatively, they suggest revising the current action plan to reintroduce cheetahs to India using a “science-based approach” to rigorously assess the policies and methods utilised. The focus should be securing India’s threatened savannahs and grasslands and avoiding the disruption of other ongoing conservation efforts, such as the reintroduction of Asiatic lions.
They conclude that “there is an urgent need for international bodies, such as the IUCN and the wider community of cheetah and carnivore biologists, to re-evaluate the purpose and practice of such intercontinental, large carnivore translocation efforts”.
Tranquilisers were administered to the cheetahs to keep them calm for the journey from South Africa to India. For more pics on Project Cheetah follow @Adriantordiffe on Instagram
The argument for Project Cheetah
In response to this correspondence, a group of vets, scientists, ecologists and cheetah conservationists published their dissenting opinion in an article titled “The case for the reintroduction of cheetahs to India” (Tordiffe et al., 2023). Many of the authors have been intimately involved in the project since its inception, and all were involved in the scientific advisement on both the Indian and southern African sides of the operation.
Tordiffe et al. (2023) argue that cheetahs once occupied an ecological niche in India, which has been left vacant since their extinction. They cite previous research showing that the return of carnivores is particularly important in restoring the functional ecology of ecosystems. They suggest that the widespread human-wildlife conflict and poaching that precipitated the extinction of cheetahs in India have since been controlled through legislation and effective enforcement. Furthermore, suitable habitat, prey availability and anthropogenic pressures were thoroughly assessed before selecting Kuno National Park and other protected areas as potential reintroduction sites.
According to the Project Cheetah action plan, approximately 100,000 km2 (10 million hectares) of legally protected reserves in India lie within the historic range of the cheetah and could potentially support breeding cheetah populations. Tordiffe et al. (2023) disagree with Gopalaswamy et al.’s (2022) approach of using East African cheetah population densities to estimate the potential carrying capacities of the selected release sites in India. Instead, they suggest that the biomass of suitable prey will determine such densities.
In answer to Gopalaswamy et al.’s (2022) discussion around the Asiatic cheetahs, Tordiffe et al. (2023) point to the IUCN guidelines for population reintroductions. These require that potential source populations have adequate genetic diversity and that removing a determined number of individuals would not compromise the source population. Given the recent announcement by the Iranian Department of Environment that only 12 confirmed Asiatic cheetahs remain, there is no way they could be utilised for this initiative. Instead, Tordiffe et al. (2023) argue that the southern African cheetah population has the greatest documented genetic diversity and is sufficiently large to supply founding individuals without negatively affecting their numbers.
The 12 cheetahs secured in crates in an Indian Airforce C17, making their journey from South Africa to India
The authors highlight that unpublished data indicates that the managed cheetah metapopulation in southern Africa of around 500 cheetahs is currently growing at a rate of 8.8% per year. These animals occur predominantly on smaller, fenced reserves, and translocation is vital to this metapopulation management. In South Africa alone, population viability analysis indicates that this population could sustain the removal of 29 individuals without detriment. Though they acknowledge that there are still areas in Africa that could theoretically support reintroduced cheetahs, the authors suggest that few of the sites are feasible in reality. They suggest that there are several socioeconomic, cultural and religious differences that contribute to a greater tolerance for large predators in India than in Africa, as evidenced by other large carnivore conservation initiatives in India.
Tordiffe et al. (2023) also refute the suggestion that there have been no successful translocations of “fenced-in” cheetahs into “free-ranging” environments. They cite the release of 22 cheetahs into the unfenced Zambezi Delta in Mozambique in August 2021, along with the release of 36 cheetahs onto Namibian farmlands, including some unfenced properties. With respect to the risk of disease transmission, three of the authors (and other experts) have conducted a comprehensive disease risk analysis. Though most diseases were judged to be of low or very low risk, those deemed medium risk are managed through a combination of vaccination programmes and antiparasitic treatments.
Finally, the response concedes that the suggestion by Gopalaswamy et al. (2022) that money for the project might be better invested in other cheetah conservation initiatives is “intriguing”. However, the authors suggest that this is unlikely, given that governments tend to prioritise conservation projects in their own jurisdictions.
Though Tordiffe et al. (2023) highlight the cheetahs’ potential role as an umbrella species that will benefit the “broader biodiversity conservation and livelihood goals in India”, they acknowledge that this must be evaluated once the project is completed.
The team on the ground in Kuno National Park
Final thoughts
On the 26th of January 2023, the South African Department of Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment confirmed that India and South Africa had signed a Memorandum of Understanding. Under the terms of the MoU, 100 more cheetahs will be translocated to India over the next ten years to establish a healthy and diverse population. At the outset, there are likely to be significant losses. If the project is successful, it will likely be counted as one of the most daring conservation initiatives of the 21st century. And more importantly, cheetahs will once again stalk the grasslands and savannahs of India. If it fails, the cheetah will die, millions of dollars will be lost, and the project will be consigned to the learning curve of history.
Few meaningful conservation initiatives could ever be labelled as risk-free. With ever-shrinking wild spaces and changing climates, conservation is facing a turning point. Considered interference and substantial risks may be necessary to protect the earth’s remaining megafauna and reverse the mistakes of the past. But with these decisions will come complex ethical debates that cut to the heart of the intrinsic value of an animal, the definition of “natural”, the importance of genetics and the balance of utilitarianism. There are unlikely to be easy answers or universal agreement.
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2023 to midnight on 30 April 2023. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
Forestscape in Nyungwe National Park, Rwanda. Coming soon as a responsible safari option – check out our news in Simon’s editorial below.
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
Our HUGE news + bongos + extraordinary pics
About that exciting announcement I have hinted at a few times …
Next week I head to Rwanda for a few weeks of exploring the incredible Akagera and Nyungwe national parks. These are rising stars in Africa’s bouquet of well-managed destinations; ripe for the all-important international tourist market. Both parks are managed by African Parks (imho by far the world’s most effective conservation organisation operating in Africa) in partnership with the energetic and forward-thinking Rwandan government.
African Park’s reputation speaks for itself – 22 parks and >20 million hectares under management (check out their track record here) – and they keep growing their influence and reach every year. Now that they have secured such vast tracts of wilderness for nurturing they are increasing their focus on safari tourism as a major funding vehicle.
And that’s where we come in. Our two organisations have signed an exclusive agreement to drive bookings to the growing number of AP-managed camps & lodges within these protected areas across Africa – for all visitors except the local tourists in each country, which AP will continue to manage.
Expect much-reduced prices (compared to the norm) for your stay in paradise and genuine responsible safari opportunities where local people are the primary beneficiaries. Forget rim flow pools, crystal glass and Chef de Cuisine darling – we are talking authentic, experiential travel with all the creature comforts that you need.
More to come. For now, if you would like to be notified personally when we go live (mid-year) please email us at ukuri@africageographic.com.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
Gorilla trekking in Bwindi, Uganda – 6 days – From US$3,380pps
Trekking mountain gorillas is one of the most exhilarating bucket-list experiences in the world – and where better to do this than Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, the birthplace of mountain-gorilla trekking? On this safari you’ll also seek out the tree-climbing lions of Queen Elizabeth National Park, and explore the biodiversity of Entebbe Botanical Gardens.
Botswana wildlife & Victoria Falls magic – 8 days – From US$3,830pps
This iconic safari combines the wildlife riches of Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park in northern Botswana, with the awe-inspiring majesty of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. Seek out Khwai’s predators and see the massive concentrations of elephants on the Chobe River waterfront, before being romanced by the awe-inspiring Zambezi River as it plunges into the misty gorges below Victoria Falls.
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Few people know much about the striking antelope which is the subject of our main feature this week. Silent, secretive, and shy, the bongo is one of Africa’s more mysterious characters. But the bongo is also one of Africa’s larger and more distinctive antelope species. Read more about these fascinating creatures in our first story below.
Our Photographer of the Year gallery this week captures some of the finer details of quintessential Africa – from teeny, glistening frogs and majestic and boisterous elephants; to a three-legged leopard and young Omo Valley herders tending to their cattle at daybreak. You can indulge in these experiences in our second story below.
Happy celebrating Africa!
Story 1 https://africageographic.com/stories/the-bongo/
SECRETIVE BONGOS
The bongo is one of Africa’s most attractive antelope yet its shy nature keeps it off the safari radar. We shed light on this alluring mammal
One of the challenges of finding an exciting fact each week is that after a few years, one risks repeating oneself. This week, for example, I was very excited to tell you all about how the fur of springhares is bioluminescent. Then I realised that sounded a bit familiar…
Luckily springhares are fascinating animals associated with a plethora of fun trivia options. Did you know that in terms of acceleration and speed, springhares are better at hopping than kangaroos? It’s all to do with the cross-sectional area of their tendon structures, which are proportionately thicker and thus rapidly facilitate the transfer of force.
It comes at a cost, though, at least in terms of energy expenditure. Kangaroos and wallabies may be slower, but their energy-efficient hopping allows them to move over vast distances. Springhares are more focused on escaping the terrors of the African night.
WATCH: Madagascar is a unique biodiversity hotspot, with 80% of its flora and fauna found nowhere else on earth. However, many of these species are under threat from climate change, deforestation, hunting and illegal trade in wildlife (03:15). Click here to watch
In the gloom of an African rainforest, hulking figures lurk in the shadows between the towering trunks. The air is filled with the relentless sounds of life – chirping crickets, melodious birds and chattering primates – yet the Delphic shapes are silent but for the odd soft snort. Now and again, a break in the canopy lets through a slice of a sunbeam, lighting up a blaze of red fur. Silent, secretive, and shy, the bongo is one of Africa’s more mysterious characters.
The basics of bongos
Surprisingly, few people know of the striking bongo (Tragelaphus eurycerus), despite it being one of Africa’s larger and more distinctive antelope species. This partly concerns their preference for the tropical jungles and dense forests, as well as a somewhat distrustful approach to people. There are two recognised subspecies: the western/lowland bongo (T. eurycerus) in disjunct populations in West and Central Africa and the critically endangered eastern/mountain bongo (T. e. isaaci) in small, fragmented populations in Kenya.
The bongo’s bright auburn coat is perhaps its most distinctive feature, along with the white stripes that run down the flanks from the short dorsal crest. These stripes are believed to act as camouflage in dense vegetation by breaking up the animal’s outline. Bright white chevrons decorate the face and chest, emphasising body language cues in gloomy environments. Unusually for a forest-dwelling antelope, bongos are massive and are one Africa’s heavier antelope species. Though the males and females are similar in height, and both have horns, the males are considerably stockier and darken with age. It is not uncommon for older male eastern bongos to take on a rich mahogany colour.
Anyone familiar with nyala, sitatunga or kudu can immediately see the family resemblance when looking at the bongo. This tribe is known as the Tragelaphini, or spiral-horned antelope tribe and includes nine different species in two genera (for now – genetic analysis is ongoing). Despite their iconic “antelope look”, the spiral-horned antelopes belong to the subfamily Bovinae, and their closest relatives are bovines such as buffalos, bison and wild cattle. Within the tribe, bongo and sitatunga can hybridise and produce fertile offspring (known as a “bongsis”), reinforcing the theory that the two are most closely related.
Young western bongo males photographed in Odzala-Kokoua National Park
Quick facts
Shoulder height:
1.1-1.3 metres
Mass:
Males: 220-405kg
Females: 150-235kg
Gestation:
285 days
Conservation status:
Western bongo: Near Threatened
Eastern/mountain bongo: Critically Endangered
Being a Tragelaphid…
Apart from shared physical similarities like white stripes, enormous ears, and lyre-shaped horns, the bongo and other members of the Tragelaphus genus share several behavioural similarities. These antelopes, including nyalas, bushbucks, sitatungas and kudus, all rely on concealment in dense vegetation and are not known for their running stamina. When hiding fails and bongos are forced to flee from a predator, they will do so only as far as necessary before attempting to obscure themselves in a thicket once again. The massive ears and enormous eyes – attractive characteristics of all members of this genus – are likely an evolutionary necessity to this veiled approach to predator avoidance. All the better to see and hear them with…
Mountain nyalas share many physical characteristics with bongos, including white stripes, enormous ears, and lyre-shaped horns (males)
Bongo behaviour
Bongos are primarily nocturnal or crepuscular, though occasionally active during the day. They spend most of their time browsing, sometimes supplementing meals of leaves and small plants with mouthfuls of fresh grass. Studies have shown that bongos require permanent access to both water and salt. Of the herds studied within the Dzanga-Ndoki National Park in the Central African Republic, the focal points of their home ranges were all found to be clearings around waterholes and mineral licks. Small herds (seldom more than twenty individuals) of females and their youngsters hid in the forests during the day before emerging at dusk to drink and eat the mineral-rich clay soils (geophagy).
Unlike females, adult males are usually solitary once they reach sexual maturity at around two years old. Though their cryptic natures mean that bongos are relatively understudied across much of their natural distribution, research has shown that they are seasonal breeders in certain parts of their range. During these times (usually around October to January), the bulls will approach and interact with the herds searching for a receptive female. Naturally, competition with other males is likely in the mating season. Like other members of the Tragelaphus genus (especially nyalas), the bulls will avoid conflict if possible, relying on a combination of piloerection, lateral presentation, and slow-motion movements to intimidate rivals. When this fails, male fights can be vicious, prolonged, and potentially fatal.
Roughly nine months after the victor of such battles has claimed his prize, the female will give birth to one calf. These calves are hidden for at least a week before they are introduced to the rest of the herd.
A western bongo calf; adult males become solitary once they reach sexual maturity
From the west side to the east side
Overall, the bongo is classified as ‘Near Threatened’ on the IUCN Red List, but the distinction between the western and eastern subspecies of bongos has significant conservation ramifications. Both subspecies are under threat due to habitat loss and bushmeat hunting. However, numbers of eastern/mountain bongos have fallen below the minimum level necessary for a viable, sustainable population. There are believed to be fewer than 140 individuals confined to just five fragmented habitats in Kenya: Mount Kenya, the Maasai Mau Forest Complex, the SW Mau Forest, the Eburu Forest and the Aberdares Mountains. Illegal logging continues to reduce already limited available habitat, poaching and predation by lions contribute to declining numbers, and disease transmission from cattle has grave implications for their future survival.
The only things standing between the eastern subspecies and extinction in the wild are multi-pronged conservation efforts to preserve their remaining habitats and maintain genetic diversity. The bulk of this work falls to the Kenyan National Bongo Task Force and the Bongo Surveillance Project. Strategies to save the subspecies include the creation of the Mawingu Mountain Bongo Sanctuary and the gradual rewilding of captive-bred individuals. Their bright colours and placid temperaments have made bongos popular in zoos and private collections. More eastern bongos are in captivity in North America than in the wild. However, these animals are unfamiliar with the Kenyan environment and climate, excessively tame, susceptible to native diseases and predator naïve. It takes many years of intensive work before they or their offspring are ready to enter the wild.
Bongos are under threat due to habitat loss and bushmeat hunting
The bongo sasa
Interestingly, one major factor that has played a role in keeping the western bongo safe from the worst effects of bushmeat hunting is a superstition that surrounds them. In Gabon, particularly, the bongo is said to be suffused with sasa – a kind of evil power in certain animals and plants that works hand in hand with witchcraft. The sasa of the bongo is sasa a eye duru, which translates as sasa – “which is heavy”. Many believe that those foolish enough to hunt a bongo risk falling victim to seizures and madness, which can only be treated with rigorous cleaning rituals.
This superstition has probably helped reduce the number of bongos killed for bushmeat, but recent research suggests that these taboos are becoming less prevalent.
Where can I see one in the wild?
The best places to see bongos in the wild are in the Republic of the Congo, in either Odzala-Kokoua National Park or Dzanga-Sangha National Park. Staking out one of the baïs (forest clearings) at sunset offers the strongest chance of catching them as they leave the forest to come and drink.
Want to see bongos in the wild? Get in touch with our travel team to discuss your bongo-seeking safari – details below this story.
Enjoying the rare experience of seeing a bongo in the wild can be nothing but rewarding. The bongo is unequivocally one of Africa’s most graceful and attractive antelope, yet their shy natures and love of obscurity have kept them largely off the safari radar.
Bongos can be spotted in Odzala-Kokoua National Park
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2023 to midnight on 30 April 2023. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
Himba women dancing at sunset. Namibia. Photographer of the Year 2021 entrant
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
First photos + connected elephants + Sabi Sands safari
It’s been raining almost non-stop in the Lowveld since I expressed concern a few weeks ago about the lack thereof – and now we are experiencing floods! Happiness mixed with worries about the local people affected by rising waters and raging rivers. To our clients arriving for your stunning Greater Kruger summer safari: expect a few logistical issues due to flooding rivers and no-go muddy game-drive areas. Safari njema
Having dropped out of social media ‘discussions’ about trophy hunting years back (same angry people on both sides sprouting ideological nonsense), I was drawn to a dramatic outburst by a respected pro-trophy hunting academic who felt offended that a colleague had described her latest post as containing ‘misinformation’. Her loud and clear clarion call to adoring supporters was sounded, and the usual attack dogs obediently tore strips out of her detractor – going way beyond the damage to her reputation. Blood-lust satiated, and order was restored. Another day in the cut-throat life of social media influencers in the wildlife-industry space…
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Our first weekly gallery for Photographer of the Year 2023 is here! And we couldn’t be happier with the submissions. Our entrants have delivered impressive shots this week: rare lemurs in Madagascar, a black leopard in Laikipia, a post-partum leopard, and even the intricate details of a dainty nose fly. This is probably one of the best first galleries we’ve had in all the years of this competition. A sign of the magnificent images to come in the next few months? Check out the gallery below.
Here’s a tip for aspiring Photographer of the Year entrants: Rather than submitting all your entries in one go, spread your entries over a few weeks. This will ensure your multiple, quality images don’t outcompete each other for a spot in our weekly galleries.
Habitat connectivity is essential to the conservation of elephants. New research based on three decades of elephant data explores how elephants move across the landscapes of southern Africa through protected areas and beyond – providing valuable insights that may aid a sustainable future for elephants. Read more in our second story below.
Tuesday was Valentine’s Day, and being the die-hard romantic I am, I’ve been saving this particular fact for just such an occasion.
Did you know that some female dragonflies have been known to fake death to avoid unwanted advances from males? They simply freeze mid-flight, crash to the ground and lie there motionless on their backs until the overly enthusiastic male loses interest.
And that’s all from me for this week.
Celebrating the Bateleurs
In our forum this week, Carla Geyser shares some insight about the work of The Bateleurs – an environmental air force made up of 150 volunteer pilots.
This group of civilians take to the skies to help protect Africa’s wildlands and creatures. The Bateleurs undertake important missions in partnership with various conservation organisations, from wildlife population counts to relocating animals and birds throughout southern Africa. Read more about the Bateleurs and their recent missions flying leopard tortoises – and one very special turtle – across South Africa, in Carla’s forum post.
WATCH: Photographer of the Year 2023 entrant Andrew Macdonald shares the epic journey he took to capture his image of the rare and critically endangered Perrier’s sifaka in Madagascar – overcoming the challenges presented by tricky lighting and terrain (04:29). Click here to watch
New research explores the value of habitat connectivity in facilitating the movement of elephants
Habitat connectivity is one of the most critical concepts in the conservation of iconic animal species – and one of the most challenging to achieve as the human population expands. New research based on nearly three decades of elephant data explores how elephants move across the landscapes of southern Africa through protected areas and beyond.
Many of the world’s remaining large mammal species survive in small, fragmented populations isolated in protected areas and surrounded by a sea of human development. Around 80% of Africa’s savannah elephants occur in Southern Africa, predominantly in protected areas in the form of national parks and reserves. Though the space available to them is significant (nearly a million km2), connectivity between populations is a vital consideration for future population viability and persistence. Confining elephants to designated protected areas without the possibility of movement risks severe demographic challenges and the loss of genetic diversity.
To investigate how elephants utilise habitats across southern Africa, scientists examined over a million telemetry observations from 254 collared elephants spanning nearly three decades. Their goal was to determine areas of feasible connectivity between populations and, conversely, where movement between populations is no longer possible. To do this, they set about determining “where elephants want to go” and exploring how human actions restrict this movement. They then investigated how these factors vary across different landscapes through a series of case studies of distinct habitats in southern Africa. Finally, the authors describe the specific routes of connectivity that remain potentially accessible to elephant populations.
“Where do elephants want to go?”
Of the 252 different vegetation zones mapped by the Southern Africa Regional Science Initiative Project in Southern Africa, the telemetry data revealed that the elephants were utilising 83 of these zones. The authors then investigated the tree species occurring in these regions and predicted that a further 76 vegetation zones might be suitable for elephants.
Previous research has shown that elephants prefer to avoid steep slopes, as confirmed by the telemetry data in the new study. 95.8% of the recorded data points occurred on predominantly flat terrain. Consequently, hilly terrain acts as a barrier to elephant movement. Unsurprisingly, the presence of larger river systems also influenced elephant distribution, with 94.7% of elephant data points lying within 10km of a seventh-order river or higher. (Streams and rivers can be classified as numbered “orders”, with a first-order stream being the smallest and the Amazon River considered a 12th-order stream.)
The shaded areas in each map represent regions that would be suitable for elephants as determined by each factor considered individually. These factors include vegetation type (A), slope (B), distance to rivers (C), human population (D), cattle density (E), crop probability (F), and protected areas (IUCN I-VI) (G). The intersection of these seven layers provides a projection of suitable landscapes for elephants (H). Huang et al. (2022)
“How human actions restrict elephant movements”
As expected, the researchers found a strong relationship between areas with low agricultural potential, human densities, and elephant movement. This was the case even outside protected areas. Fences almost invariably acted as a restriction to elephant movement but for the few instances where gaps allowed for their passage. Unfenced areas allowed elephants to move freely, including beyond the boundaries of protected areas.
Researchers found that water availability significantly affected elephant dispersal in Namibia
Case studies on the movements of elephants
Having identified the factors (natural and anthropogenic) that influence elephant movement, the authors then used regional case studies to contextualise this information. To do so, they assigned the elephant movement data into eight “clusters” of protected areas:
Etosha (Namibia)
Chobe (northern Botswana, Zambezi region of Namibia [formerly called the Caprivi Strip] and parts of north-west Zimbabwe)
Kafue (Zambia)
Limpopo, which includes Kruger National Park (South Africa, Zimbabwe, and Mozambique)
Luangwa (Zambia and Malawi)
Maputo (southern Mozambique and South Africa)
Niassa (Mozambique)
Zambezi (Zambia and Zimbabwe)
For each cluster, they systematically examined where the elephants would want to move to, where they dispersed in reality and what factors influenced this movement. For example, fences and water availability created significant barriers to elephant dispersal in Namibia, South Africa, and Botswana. In Etosha National Park in Namibia, the elephants were prevented from dispersing east to the wetter regions of the country by fences surrounding the park. However, gaps in the southwestern fence line allowed them to move west in the arid communal conservancies. Here, the elephants were restricted to dry riverbeds where they could dig for water, but human-elephant conflict has increased, particularly due to competition over water resources. Likewise, the international border fence between Namibia and Botswana acts as a barrier to elephant movement, even within the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area.
Through these case studies, the researchers also identified areas of feasible movement, such as between populations in the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area (including the Kruger National Park) and Banhine and Zinave National Parks. They also acknowledged that connectivity is no longer achievable in some areas, as in Malawi (one of the most densely populated African countries) and between the southern and northern sections of Mozambique. In these regions, the growth of the human population and the increased need for agricultural land make the creation of corridors impossible.
Mapping elephant connections
This painstaking process allowed the researchers to create a series of maps to illustrate the interplay of various factors. “[These] maps help us to consider the prospects of how we can improve the connections between the different protected areas that harbour elephants in Southern Africa,” said one of the lead authors, Professor Rudi Van Aarde.
“Map of notable routes of connectivity or lack thereof. Predicted suitable habitat (green), protected areas with elephants (orange), and protected areas without elephants (grey).” Huang et al. (2022)
From fences to human-wildlife conflict, the challenges to elephant habitat connectivity are substantial, but many of these areas represent the last opportunities to create such linkages between protected areas. The authors are particularly critical of the impact of fences on elephant populations. They argue that while there are unequivocally situations where fencing is appropriate, it is essential to balance the need for fences against connectivity.
They also acknowledge that the potential to connect elephant populations is most dependent on socio-political will, and it will also inevitably require local community members to coexist with elephants. Yet, for all the effort needed, the researchers conclude that, “protecting the connections identified here for dispersal may represent some of our best chances at a sustainable future for elephants.”
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safariin Botswana.
We are open for entries from 1 February 2023 to midnight on 30 April 2023. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.
Afternoon delights. Elephants putting on a show in Khwai Community Concession, Okavango Delta
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
15 top wildlife experiences + all about giraffes
There is a trend on my Facebook feed to ‘Photoshop’ photos of birds – to resemble a gaudy box of smarties – dashes of bright shiny colours that assault the eye. Sounds like fun, and any reasonable person would know that this is art and not reality. BUT, read the comments and you realise that many people think these are real-life depictions. Oh boy . Elsewhere we see artificial intelligence software winning fine art competitions – feeding the fakeness. The ongoing process of humans moving to a virtual world continues. Thank goodness there is still a bunch of us who celebrate reality on Earth – warts and all.
90% of Kenya’s energy generated is via solar, wind and geothermal. The country’s transition from fossil fuels to low-carbon energy sources has been slowed down by legitimate objection from communities in the affected areas. Imagine a (real) world where local people benefit directly from the environmentally friendly energy generated on their land – that would be a big middle finger to the fossil fuel industry!
As I write this it’s raining cats and dogs. Every part of me is tingling
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
Chitake Springs – 6 days – From US$3,310 pps
This epic photographic safari, led by two expert guides, is for the adventurous traveller and photographer seeking in-your-face wildlife drama. Chitake Springs in Mana Pools National Park is growing increasingly popular with photographers, as it consistently delivers raw, untamed wildlife action. There are only 2 spots left for this safari, departing in September 2023.
Rwanda gorilla trekking – 3 days – From US$2,630 pps
This is the perfect gorilla-trekking safari for time-challenged travellers. This adventure will take you through the pristine afro-montane forests of Volcanoes National Park, packed with golden monkeys, colourful Rwenzori turacos and prehistoric three-horned chameleons. And the cherry on the cake will be a mountain gorilla silverback and his family in the depths of paradise.
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
From convening with mountain gorillas, to witnessing towering tuskers up close or being surrounded by thousands of wildebeest on their migration journey, there are a few iconic wildlife experiences that many of us have on our bucket lists. With so many opportunities for unique exploits on the vast continent, choosing the ultimate pilgrimage for that once-in-a-lifetime adventure can be tricky. That’s why teamAG has put our heads together to highlight 15 of the top wildlife encounters to pursue in Africa – see our first story below.
We have been pleasantly surprised lately to find how wildly popular giraffes are with the AG tribe. It seems that you can’t get enough of these (somewhat) gentle giants! And so, we’ve put together a bumper giraffe special, on everything there is to know about the planet’s tallest creature. Read more in our second story.
Next week we will be featuring our first Photographer of the Year gallery for 2023… we are brimming with anticipation. Have you entered your pics yet?
Story 2 https://africageographic.com/stories/giraffe/
THE GIRAFFE
The giraffe is a wonder of evolution, & a vital part of Africa’s ecosystems. Learn all about the planet’s tallest creature
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
What do bats and dolphins have in common? The answer is (somewhat obviously) not very much, but they do hold one fundamental physiological process in common: they both use echolocation to locate their prey.
But hey, many seemingly unrelated animals share physical traits and abilities, right? Insects, birds and bats have wings; humans and blue-eyed black lemurs can have blue eyes; many animal families (like primates and pandas) have opposable “thumbs” etc. But here is the interesting part…
Did you know that echolocation evolved independently in dolphins and bats through the same genetic mutations? So while we have generally assumed that convergent evolution arose through different gene mutations arriving at the same result, the bat and the dolphin showed that sometimes these traits occur through the same sequence of genetic steps.
Easing human-elephant conflict
Evelyn Poole, rep for our project partner Elephants Alive, writes on our forum:
“When elephants are under threat, the entire ecosystem suffers. Thriving ecosystems rely on connections between protected nature reserves. However, these corridors intersect with human settlements and cause increasing conflict between humans and elephants. New research by Elephants Alive identifies innovative solutions to mitigate this conflict: Use of rapid response units to de-escalate conflict situations and protect people & elephants Planting elephant-unpalatable crops to protect AND supplement farmers livelihoods
Combining these solutions with proven methods, such as beehive fences by Save the Elephants, will provide a sustainable answer to promoting coexistence and increase tolerance of path-finding elephants.”
WATCH: Thousands of tonnes of critically endangered abalone have been poached from South Africa’s coast over the past few years, depleting natural populations. But can offering an alternative source through abalone aquaculture curb poaching? This abalone farm in Doringbay is creating employment and helping to secure the future of the species (02:15). Click here to watch
Millennia of evolutionary problem-solving have conferred upon animals a weird and wonderful array of adaptations from trunks to tails and patterned coats to thick fur. Predators have been equipped with offensive weaponry, and prey species are similarly prepared to defend themselves in an eternal evolutionary arms race. The peculiar, unique creatures on the planet have been shaped by innumerable overlapping conditions never again to be repeated – every living thing is the product of circumstance. And perhaps nowhere is this more apparent than the giraffe, one of Africa’s most fantastical offerings.
In the know
As the tallest animal on Earth, giraffes do not exactly keep a low profile and probably need little by way of introduction. Their leggy silhouettes have appeared in some of the most iconic images of the continent, hordes of tourists have marvelled at their outlandish shapes, and cartoon representations abound. Yet despite their rather significant stature, these quiet and unassuming herbivores spent much of the 20th century flying under the conservation and ethological radar. They are perhaps one of the most under-studied large mammals in Africa, and scientists are only now beginning to unravel the secrets of their social lives and communication. Worse, it is only in the last decade that the reality of their “silent extinction” has made it into the public eye.
Giraffes are possibly one of the most intriguing animals on safari. While we are far from knowing everything there is to know, recent scientific discoveries around their complex physiology and behaviours are endlessly fascinating.
A picture-perfect journey of giraffes
Quick facts
Height:
Up to 6 m
Mass:
Male: 1,192kg
Female: 828kg
Social Structure:
Loose aggregations or solitary (with evidence of longer-lasting bonds)
Gestation:
460 days (15 months)
Conservation status:
Vulnerable
The fast-walking leopard camel
The common name “giraffe” comes from the Arabic word zarāfah, meaning “fast-walker”, but it is the scientific name that is particularly entertaining. Until recently, all giraffes were considered one species (more on this later): Giraffa camelopardalis. “Camelopard” is an archaic English name for the giraffe, derived from Greek and referring to the giraffe’s physical similarity to a camel and the spotted, leopard-like colouration (from pardus, meaning “spotted” or “mottled”).
The characteristic pattern of dark patches on a lighter background – slightly different for each species – probably serves a thermoregulatory function, as the darker patches are rich in large sweat glands. The camel comparison is particularly relevant to their walking styles – giraffes and camels move both legs on the same side of the body simultaneously in a gait known as pacing. This confers a rocking motion to their movement and means that while they can gallop, they cannot truly trot in the way a horse or zebra can. Naturally, having legs over two metres long implies that even a leisurely stroll qualifies as fast walking. Still, giraffes can also reach speeds of over 60km/hour when forced into a reluctant run.
Despite this (admittedly tenuous) similarity, camels and giraffes are only very distantly related as members of the Artiodactyla (even-toed ungulates). The closest relative of all giraffe species is a bizarre and endangered animal called an okapi, found only in the highland forests of the Democratic Republic of the Congo.
Why the long neck (and legs)?
The famous question that has dominated scientific interest in giraffes since the Galapagos finches first lit the fire of Darwin’s interest in evolution. Giraffes proved to be the textbook example of how a physical trait of some individuals (height, stripes, spots) conferred an advantage and, over many thousands of years, became the signature look of a species. So, during times of nutritional stress, slightly taller giraffe ancestors could reach leaves above the reach of their competitors. Thus, they survived and passed the “tall gene” onto their offspring.
This is, of course, a massive oversimplification and a bit unfair to Darwin to boot. For a start, Darwin was more impressed by the giraffe’s tail as a perfectly designed flyswatter and only focussed on the giraffe’s neck in a later argument with a staunch critic. Extracting the “reasons” why an animal evolved to look the way it does will invariably produce competing theories and disagreements. It is also impossible to look at the contemporary advantages of an evolved trait and assume these explain its evolution.
As it turns out, long necks confer several advantages. For example, they increase the momentum and power of the devastating blows delivered by fighting males to rivals, suggesting a sexual competition element. A long neck (and good eyesight) is also helpful for keeping an eye out for predators. The increased surface area may aid heat dissipation to assist thermoregulation in warm climates. In simple terms, we don’t fully understand how the giraffe came to stand as tall as it does.
Two giraffes showing off their tall genes in Ol Pejeta Conservancy, Kenya
Gotta keep your head up
We know that the evolution of the giraffe’s six-metre height necessitated several further physiological adaptations to deal with the resultant physics. Though a full exploration of these features is beyond the scope of this article, it essentially comes down to fluid dynamics and gravity. Each of the seven cervical vertebrae can be over 28cm long, and together, these neck vertebrae comprise over 50% of the entire length of the vertebral column, raising the brain two metres above the heart. The hooves lie roughly the same distance below the heart on the opposite end.
Giraffes have relatively large hearts (though not that much heavier than would be expected for an animal of their size) and mean average blood pressure twice that of other mammals. Their heart rate ranges between 40-90 beats per minute, which is also quite fast for an animal of their size (a resting horse’s heart rate rarely goes above 20 beats per minute, by comparison). This ensures that the brain is well supplied, despite its lofty position. Tight, thick skin around the legs prevents fluid from accumulating and encourages its return to the heart via the venous network. Enormous neck veins, a muscular jugular and robust valves also help prevent the giraffe from fainting when assuming its awkward straddle to drink.
Blood flow aside, a neck that long results in several other challenges. The amount of “dead space” (the parts in our respiratory system not participating in gas exchange – the trachea, bronchi, etc.) increases due to the long trachea. As a result, giraffes have a much larger tidal volume (air breathed in and out) to compensate. As ruminants, they also have an unusually muscular oesophagus to transport the balls of cud back into the mouth.
Giraffes have a highly developed nuchal ligament that runs from the back of the head to the spinal processes of the shoulder vertebrae. The stiff band of elastic tissue helps support the muscular and heavy neck without the giraffe having to invest any energy in holding its head up. However, they need to contract these muscles against the force of the ligament to lower the head. This may have led to the misconception that giraffes sleep very little and seldom lie down. However, research shows that giraffes sleep roughly the same amount as other ruminants (a couple of hours a day – though generally in short bursts) and usually do so lying down, with the head tucked to the side and resting on their hip.
The journeys of giraffes
The life of a giraffe begins dramatically with a two-metre drop to the ground below the standing mother. Once the tiny creature has recovered from the shock of its brutal entry into the world, it immediately tries to stand; a feat made all the more challenging as a giraffe calf is already around two metres tall at birth. They are born with their ossicones folded down on the skull – these will become erect a few days later. A closer look at a giraffe calf also reveals that they are oddly disproportionate, with a (relatively) short neck, which allows them to suckle comfortably.
A mother giraffe tries to protect her young baby from a pride of lions in Olare Motorogi Conservancy, Kenya
Giraffe calves are most vulnerable to predators during their first few weeks. Still, giraffe cows are formidable protectors and will attempt to fight off even the largest predators with potentially lethal kicks. It is not uncommon to encounter slightly older calves in a “calving pool” under the care of one female. The calves suckle for up to eight months and remain with their mothers for just over a year.
It was generally assumed that giraffes formed no lasting social bonds, but research now shows that their social dynamics are far more complex than initially believed. Females live in matrilineal societies, and associations between mothers, daughters, and grandmothers may last for years. These small kinship groups may link up with other herds for a while before separating again – a more typical fission-fusion society. Distress signs have also been observed in cows that have witnessed the death of another cow’s calf, suggesting a degree of cooperation in calf raising.
Naturally, any social structure requires communication and giraffe are not the mute creatures they were once believed to be. They have been recorded humming, snorting, grunting, moaning and even growling. Fascinatingly, they can also use infrasonic sounds to communicate below the level of human perception, like elephants.
A newborn giraffe, only just having managed the act of standing, nurses from its mother. Note the umbilical cord still present
Boys are smelly
Unlike the females, the bulls seemingly form no lasting social bonds. Once they disperse from their mothers, they may temporarily join bachelor herds but become increasingly solitary as they age. Sexual maturity is attained at around four years of age, but it may take several years until they can compete for mating rights.
A fight between two equally matched males is one of Africa’s greatest spectacles. The process is (perhaps somewhat deceptively) termed “necking” and involves swinging the neck round in powerful arcs and using the ossicones to club the flanks of a rival. The blows can be exceedingly violent, and while it is rare, such fights can be lethal. For this reason, the ossicones of bulls are far thicker, more rounded, and hairless than those of the females.
All giraffes smell somewhat pungent, but mature bulls are downright malodorous. This is because their skin is coated with copious amounts of a secretion containing 3-methylindole, a chemical responsible for the smell of mammalian faeces, and para-cresol. These substances discourage the growth of fungi and bacteria on the skin.
The ferocious fights between male giraffes can be lethal
The Silent Extinction
Currently, the IUCN Red List recognises only one giraffe species, which is classified as “Vulnerable”. However, the most recent genetic research shows that there are four species of giraffe, three of which have several different subspecies. These are:
Northern giraffe – Giraffa camelopardalis
West African giraffe – G. c. peralta
Nubian giraffe (including the Rothschild’s giraffe) – G. c. camelopardalis
Luangwa giraffe (often termed the Thornicroft’s giraffe) – G. t. thornicrofti
Reticulated giraffe (Giraffa reticulata)
Though there has been considerable academic debate over the exact species/subspecies designations, the discussion is essential as it goes to the heart of conservation efforts. While giraffes across Africa may only be “vulnerable”, many species and subspecies face potential extinction due to habitat loss, bushmeat poaching, and snaring. It is helpful to consider the distinction between the four species as one might of the difference between white and black rhinos to understand how vital it is for their future.
For those wishing to make a meaningful contribution to giraffe conservation, you can visit the Giraffe Conservation Foundation’s page on our app (see instructions on how to get the app below this story).
Reticulated giraffes photographed in Meru National Park
Final thoughts
In the Southern Hemisphere, the Southern Cross constellation (Crux) revolves its way through the night sky, pointing out south for weary travellers and excited novice stargazers. In a much more exciting interpretation from some traditional Bushman stories, these four stars are two giraffes, forever wandering the inky black of night. And just as the stars are an essential element of the sky, so too are giraffes a vital part of Africa’s ecosystems, which makes it astonishing that we still know so little about them…
A European bee-eater makes a splash while having a late afternoon bath. Edited for effect. Madikwe Game Reserve, South Africa. Photographer of the Year 2020 entrant
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
Namibia’s rhino woes + Photographer of the Year is here!
There has been a fair amount of publicity since my editorial last year about the lack of human crowd control at river crossings during the incredible Great Wildebeest Migration. One resultant story was by the New York Times, in which I was asked about the situation. Although the NYT journos did a great job, they did not delve into the complexities of the problem. And so some people responding to the article resolved to avoid going to Africa on safari. That straight-line logic is, of course, NOT going to help Africa overcome its many conservation issues. The better response as a RESPONSIBLE traveller is to research how to avoid being part of the problem and use a tour operator that best advises you. Nudge, nudge. I provide some insight here in another news media story about how to responsibly enjoy this epic safari experience.
Educating our species about conservation realities at ground level in Africa is complicated by many human conditions. Emotion, denial, naivety, prejudice, and vested interests – to name a few. That’s why we rely on you to help spread the word. Thanks
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
Choose your next adventure! Chat to our travel experts and you could soon be jetting off to the heart of the wilderness.
ART ON SAFARI – 7 days – From ZAR60,150pps
Join this popular art safari in Big 5 Timbavati, Greater Kruger – and hone your skills with professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls. Soak up the peace of the wild, create art on game drives, and enjoy a relaxing stay at Kambaku Safari Lodge.
GREAT MIGRATION, SERENGETI – 5 days – from US$3,425pps
If you’d like front-row seats as the Great Wildebeest Migration makes its way through the Serengeti ecosystem, this iconic safari is for you. Our chosen dates & camps are to maximise on sightings, based on where the herds are at the time.
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
There’s a buzz at teamAG – for the day has finally arrived. Photographer of the Year 2023 is now live! Find all the details you need further down in our newsletter.
A few days ago, Namibia’s Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism released disturbing statistics, indicating that the incidence of rhino poaching is severely escalating in the country. 87 rhinos were poached in Namibia in 2022 – almost double the number poached in 2021. On a positive note, however, elephant poaching is decreasing. Read more in our first story below.
This week we delve deep into the magical primate-rich forests of Uganda’s Kibale National Park. Kibale is known for offering enthralling encounters with chimpanzees and is renowned for some of the highest primate densities in Africa. Read more about the wacky and wonderful inhabitants of this national park in our second story below.
Did you know that Central Africa is home to a furry frog with Wolverine-like claws? The breeding males of the hairy frog species (Trichobatrachus robustus) develop hair-like dermal papillae on their flanks and back legs, giving the impression of a dishevelled froggy coiffure.
A fuzzy amphibian is weird enough on its own, but the hairy frog has another bizarre defensive trick quite literally up its sleeve. When threatened, they expose the bones of their toes through the skin to create a set of claws to rake their attackers. Hence the alternative name, the Wolverine frog. So effective is this approach that they have left behind deep, bleeding wounds on unwary scientists. How do they do this? Well, it appears that they intentionally break the bones of the toe and force them through the skin.
Sweet dreams…
Photographer of the Year is open for entries!
Have you sent through your pics yet? Get your entries in for Photographer of the Year 2023. We’re looking for your photos that celebrate Africa and capture the continent’s splendour, from wildlife action and landscapes to African culture and safari experiences.
There are some awesome prizesup for grabs: The competition winner and two runners-up will share the princely sum of US$10,000 and experience the ultimate private safari in Botswana’s Northern Tuli Game Reserve.
Proudly sponsored by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.
WATCH: Photographer of the Year 2023 is officially open and awaiting your entries. Cash prizes and an epic Botswana safari are up for grabs – start searching your photo collections for that phenomenal image! (01:19). Click here to watch
As we grow up, our innocent appreciation of life’s small pleasures seems to vanish, tempered by life’s many stresses and pressures. In many ways, going on a safari is a way of recapturing this childlike wonder – escapism at its purest. And where better to escape than the green-swathed forest paths of Uganda’s Kibale National Park? A place where the flash of a butterfly’s wing or the soft call of an elusive bird is enthralling and an encounter with chimpanzees humbling. The joy inspired by the forests of Kibale is undiluted and uncomplicated, a simple celebration of nature’s remaining wonders.
Kibale National Park and its surrounds
The resplendent forests of Kibale National Park stretch out over 776km2 (77,600ha), a dense layer of emerald protecting a diverse array of fauna and flora. The park is contiguous with the northern edge of Queen Elizabeth National Park, the perfect primate-themed complement to Uganda’s most popular Big-5 safari experience. Kibale is the country’s premier chimpanzee trekking destination, supporting a population of well over 1,000 of these complex, intelligent beings.
A road cuts through a less dense section of the forest
Most of the park is dominated by evergreen rainforest, with a floral composition that marks a transition from typical high-altitude Afromontane to lowland forest. Among 300 tree species, rare hardwoods like the tiama (Entandrophragma angolense) and brown mahoganies (Lovoa swynnertonii) tower above the forest floor from massive buttresses. Interspersed between them, fruit-laden figs (Ficus spp.) keep the park’s impressive primate densities well-sated.
Beneath the thick canopy, the winding paths are widely acknowledged as some of the most picturesque on the continent, lined with a thick layer of shrubby undergrowth. When the sun shines through the leaves, the effect is an ethereal combination of shades of green and gold, and the air is redolent with the fragrant aroma of petrichor and mulch. The vast tracts of forest are interspersed with patches of grassland and swamp. On the park’s fringes, the community-run Bigodi Wetland is a popular attraction for primate enthusiasts and birders.
A chimpanzee vocalises in the forest
The chimpanzees
Kibale’s exuberant chimpanzees are the park’s most popular attraction unequivocally, and a history of nearly three decades of trekking has conferred an almost infallible success rate for encounters. These apes have the honour (perhaps a dubious one, depending upon your perspective) of being our closest relatives and time spent in their company is a unique experience. As the subjects of decades of scientific research, the chimpanzees of Kibale have revealed much about the intricacies of their intelligence, elaborate social nuances and hunting behaviours.
There are two distinct chimpanzee experiences on offer in Kibale National Park. The first is the traditional trek, where expert rangers guide visitors through the forest to find the habituated chimpanzees (often by following their blood-curdling shrieks). This can take up to a few hours, but once the chimpanzees are located, time spent with them is strictly limited to an hour. These animals are entirely comfortable with the presence of their bipedal cousins and will feed, gambol and romance without concern.
Alternatively, a second option is the chimpanzee habituation experience. This is a half- or full-day activity that starts at the break of dawn, led by the researchers of the park’s habituation team. The intention is to gradually introduce unhabituated chimpanzees to the presence of people, a painstaking process that may take several years to accomplish. It is slightly more expensive and requires considerably more patience than conventional trekking, often venturing further into the depths of the forests. However, the reward is an unparalleled insight into the world of chimpanzees without time constraints.
Witness the bonding behaviours of chimpanzees in the various experiences on offer in the national park
A forest brimming with life
Apart from its ape residents, Kibale National Park is renowned for some of the highest primate densities in Africa. Red-tailed monkeys are ubiquitous, and their white-patched cheeks and noses are undeniably adorable. The park’s monkey checklist includes the endangered Ugandan red colobus monkey, the threatened Uganda mangabey, the fierce-looking common patas monkey, the mantled guereza (Abyssinian black-and-white colobus), the vervet monkey, and the blue monkey. A special night walk may also reveal the shy and elusive East African potto and several galago (bushbaby) species.
Keep an eye out for many primate species in Kibale, including wild grey-cheeked mangabey monkeys, red colobus monkeys and olive baboons
Though the primates are undoubtedly the more conspicuous (and noisy) inhabitants, the diversity of Kibale extends to myriad mammal, bird, reptile, arthropod and amphibian families. On the larger side of the animal spectrum, elephants and buffalos regularly wander into the forest from neighbouring Queen Elizabeth National Park.
These are seldom seen and religiously avoided by the guides leading walks through the forest. Red and blue duikers, bushpigs, and giant forest hogs all occupy the undergrowth in the company of servals and rare African golden cats. There are even two species of otters in the forest waterways and swamps: the Congo clawless otter and the spotted-necked otter.
The diversity of Kibale extends to large mammals such as elephants and buffalos, which cross into the forest from Queen Elizabeth National Park
A flash of feathers
Uganda ranks high on the list of essential birding destinations in Africa. No tour of the country would be complete without dedicating some time to scanning the thickets and canopies of Kibale National Park. With habitats ranging from wet to dry forest, woodland, savanna and swamp, the park’s total bird list numbers 375 species, including six Albertine Rift endemics. For avid birders, the inventory of avian occupants reads like a riveting novel: olive long-tailed cuckoo, western tinkerbird, African pitta, black-bellied seedcracker, African grey parrot, black bee-eater, red-chested owlet, black-eared ground-thrush and the innately comic great blue turaco – could it get better than this?
The answer is yes because there is one particular feathered occupant that, upon its discovery in the park in 2005, saw birding interest in Kibale skyrocket – the green-breasted pitta. These enigmatic little birds are only found deep in the tropical forests of Central Africa and, despite their spectacular kaleidoscope of colours, are surprisingly elusive. Few birders have had the good fortune of laying eyes on the green-breasted pitta. The tale of how a lost guide (intent on keeping her geographical confusion secret from her chimpanzee tour group) stumbled upon the first sighting is genuinely charming. Fortunately, ranger Harriet Kemigisha had the good sense to recognise the pitta as an extraordinary finding. Years later, she would lead Africa Geographic director Christian Boix on a pilgrimage to view one. The story (well worth reading in full) can be accessed here: Searching for the elusive green-breasted pitta. Even better, you could be heading out on your own trip to spot a green-breasted pitta (and much more) on this 5-day safari.
Primate Lodge, situated inside Kibale, allows immediate access to the wonders of the forest
Explore & stay
Want to go on a safari to Kibale? To find lodges in or near Kibale, search for our ready-made packages and get in touch with our travel team, scroll down to after this story.
With this abundance of birds and mammals, along with a profusion of 250 butterfly species and around 70 reptiles and amphibians, Kibale National Park is Eden-like in its beauty. Every step through the park offers a discovery. Kibale is, however, a tropical rainforest, so every step should be taken in a comfortable pair of solid boots and long trousers, lest the mud, biting ants or stinging nettles detract from the adventure. All electronics and other precious belongings should also be thoroughly waterproofed. Rain is possible at any time of year, though April, May and November tend to experience higher rainfall levels. The trails are well-maintained and suitable for most fitness levels, though those trekking chimpanzees should be prepared to walk for several hours if necessary.
There is only one lodge inside the national park itself, but there are countless lodges, guest houses and tented camps on the periphery. This Uganda region is full of exciting attractions, from Lake Edward and Lake George (two of the smaller Rift Valley Lakes) to ancient explosion craters filled with saltwater lakes. Naturally, a game drive or two in neighbouring Queen Elizabeth National Park is a must, as is a tour of the Crater Lakes (and even a swim if you are feeling brave) and a cultural tour of surrounding villages.
Lake Nyinabulitwa is one of over 50 Crater Lakes in Uganda
A rhino and calf in Etosha National Park, Namibia. Rhino poaching is on the increase in Namibia.
Namibia’s Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism (MEFT) has confirmed that 87 rhinos were poached in the country in 2022 – almost double the number (45) poached in 2021. The 2022 tally included the poaching of 61 black rhinos and 26 white rhinos.
The news comes as MEFT announced the 2022 poaching statistics for elephants and rhino in a statement released on 30 January, 2023.
The Ministry reported that Etosha National Park is being targeted for poaching, with 46 rhinos poached in the park in 2022 alone. The total tally also includes 15 rhinos poached on rhino custodianship farms, and 25 on white rhino private farms.
“We note with serious concern that our flagship park, Etosha National Park, is a poaching hotspot,” MEFT said in the statement. “The Ministry and its partners in wildlife protection and law enforcement will step up efforts against wildlife crime in Etosha National Park, particularly to curb rhino poaching.”
One rhino poaching incident has been recorded in 2023 so far. That brings the total tally of rhinos poached from 2017 to date to 376.
In a positive turn, however, elephant poaching appears to be on the decrease. MEFT reports that only four elephants were poached in 2022. Elephant poaching figures have declined in Namibia over the past years, from 101 in 2015 to 50 in 2017, 27 in 2018, 13 in 2019, 12 in 2020, and 10 in 2021. The four elephants targeted in 2022 were poached in the Zambezi Region (two), Kavango West Region (one) and Kunene Region (one).
“It is our hope that these figures will continue to descend until we reach the zero-poaching target,” said MEFT. “For this year, no elephant has been poached.”
Elephant numbers are increasing and their range is expanding in Namibia, which is cause for celebration and concern. The key concern is related to human-elephant conflict, especially in areas where elephants have not occurred for decades. As a result, the country took the decision last year to auction 170 elephants from human-elephant conflict hotspots, with many of these elephants controversially being exported to safari parks in the United Arab Emirates (UAE).
MEFT noted in its recent statement that it had put improved interventions in place to fight wildlife crime, praising the work of anti-poaching units operating across the country. It called on members of the public to help curb rhino poaching by reporting suspected perpetrators to the authorities. “We must as a nation stand against the illegal plundering of our natural resources by rejecting and condemning wildlife crimes in our beautiful country,” it said.
A pile of curious wild dog pups. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe Photographer of the Year 2019 entrant
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
Safari myths busted + Maasai, maize & mammoths
There is a pack of free-roaming wild dogs (African painted wolves) in peril, and you can help. One of South Africa’s largest free-roaming packs (19 members in October) is dependent on communal efforts amongst local landowners as they roam an estimated 65,000-ha near South Africa’s border with Botswana. Now, a core property in this range is for sale, and local conservationists need help finding a wild dog-friendly farmer/owner. The asking price for the 1,855-ha Waterberg farm is R10,5m (about $620,000). For further info, please get in touch with the project coordinator of the Waterberg Wild Dog Initiative. Please flip through your network for potential buyers and send this newsletter to them. The more of a wave we can create here, the better the chance someone will step in to help. And go!
Meanwhile, here in Hoedspruit on the border of the Greater Kruger, the big summer rains have not arrived. Yet. Late last year, I noticed that the hairy rock fig tree in our garden had not flowered up as usual and mentioned my foreboding to Lizz at the time. And, of course, now there is no sign of fruit. Scouting green pigeons and black-collared barbets have arrived and left in a huff. February is usually our wettest month, so here’s hoping for a late rain season of note.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
We’ve got something for everyone this week – safari aficionados, green travellers, city slickers and seekers of the Big 5:
Affordable South Luangwa safari – expert guide – 5 days – From US$2,460pps
This fantastic combo of walking and driving will appeal to experienced safari-goers and first-timers alike. Expect exceptional game viewing and tracking on foot, scrumptious bush breakfasts and unforgettable sundowners. Did we mention leopards?
Bush & beach, Pinotage to predators – South Africa – 12 days – From US$3,895pps
JUST DO IT! For the pursuit of culinary delights and Big 5 safari heaven, there is this iconic bush and beach safari – with exceptional Greater Kruger Big-5 game viewing, and a taste of sophisticated Cape Town and its surrounding winelands. You know you want to!
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
This week we have a challenge for you: how does your awareness of the African wilderness fair against the knowledge of our experts? In our first story below, Jamie busts seven commonly misconstrued safari myths. Having sorted the fact from fiction, we want to hear from you! How many of these safari myths caught you out, and how many did you already know?
Over the past year, we’ve closely observed the challenges facing the continent’s last remaining large tuskers that call Kenya’s Amboseli-Tsavo ecosystem home. We’ve watched closely as three iconic tuskers fell: Dida and Lugard from natural causes, and Tolstoy from complications arising from a spear wound. The work of organisations like Big Life Foundation (BLF) and Tsavo Trust is critical to the long-term coexistence between people and elephants in the area. In our second story, BLF’s Josh Clay has penned a colourful narrative on the day-to-day operations of rangers alleviating human-wildlife conflict between crop-raiding elephants and communities.
When I put together our first story of the week, I was thrilled to have the opportunity to offload some of my favourite facts that were too lengthy for my newsletter comment. (Do rhinos have bad eyesight? Are male lions part of the pride? You’ll have to read the story to find out.)
But there were a few misconceptions that didn’t make the cut.
For example, anyone who has spent time watching guineafowl (or driving slowly behind them) would be inclined to cast serious aspersions upon their IQ levels. They have tiny brains relative to other birds, and the consensus is that they are, to put it delicately, about as sharp as a marble. And yet, did you know that recent research shows that vulturine guineafowls live in complex, multilevel societies? They even appear to have friends. Fortunately, this does not mean that guineafowls are secretly the Einsteins of the bird world (phew) but that, despite previous beliefs to the contrary, complex social structures don’t necessarily require that much brainpower.
WATCH: The Matriarchs: Meet Corporal Agnes Sopilal, one of the first female rangers to join Big Life Foundation’s unti-poaching unit. Agnes has devoted her life to working alongside communities in the Amboseli-Tsavo ecosystem to promote the peaceful co-existence of wildlife and people (01:57). Click here to watch
The smoke clings to the corrugated iron ceiling like a cataract before slipping out of the open doorway and dissipating into the darkening sky. Night is approaching over the Kimana Sanctuary, a crucial elephant and wildlife corridor that links Amboseli National Park with the Chyulu Hills and Tsavo National Park in Kenya. The Big Life rangers stationed at Leopard Camp are relaxing in their kitchen hut after another long day of foot patrols, which help prevent human-elephant conflict in the Amboseli ecosystem.
The six of us sit on narrow benches while waiting for dinner. A smartphone plays YouTube videos of traditional Maasai songs as tinny lyrics accompany the trill of crickets outside. There is a jovial atmosphere because the World Cup is on tonight, and Parsitau and James are trading loud boasts in broken Swahili and English about how each country will fare.
It is Parsitau’s turn to cook a stew consisting of onions, tomatoes, sukuma wiki (kale), and nyama (meat, usually beef or goat). It’s what the rangers at Big Life eat most evenings, and is a firm favourite. He positions an aluminium plate on the table before flipping it over, and placing it upside down. Like a magician, he removes the blackened pot, unveiling its contents: a giant, steaming, white blob. The blob is known as ugali, a staple in Kenya, and is made by pounding maize meal in hot water until it becomes a thick, glutinous mass of carbohydrates. Before we start, Lekanayia goes around with a basin and a jug of water, and we take turns washing our hands. The ugali is then sliced like a cake and added to the stew. The rangers pick up small wads, making an indent with their thumb, before using it to scoop up the sauce. It is a hearty meal that is tasty and filling. We are going to need it.
Daniel Kaanki waits at the entrance to the Leopard Camp cooking hut
Human-elephant conflict and agriculture
2022 was a challenging year for this ecosystem’s people and wildlife. The rains failed, and the entire region was crippled by drought. Bushmeat poaching has increased, cows have been reduced to walking skeletons, and livestock and wildlife carcasses are common. While all vegetation may have disappeared, groundwater from Kilimanjaro continues to resurface at the permanent swamps of Kimana, Namelok, Ilchalai, and at those inside Amboseli. These swamps are essential both to wildlife and the Maasai and their livestock, who retreat here in tough years. However, in the last thirty years, improvements to infrastructure and technology have opened this region up to the rest of the country. Many non-Maasai have realised the farming potential of the swamps’ fertile verges, and irrigated fields now line their perimeters. In addition, boreholes, some over 100m deep, have enabled people to transform dry patches of bushveld into electric green.
Maize is one of the most popular crops in Kenya as it fetches a high price at the market and, as the principal ingredient of ugali, is always in demand. Kimana’s permanent water and rich soils make for excellent growing conditions. However, cultivating maize here can come with a hefty cost because it’s not only farmers that look to reap its benefits. Maize also happens to be a favourite with elephants. Since the swamp shares an open boundary with the Kimana Sanctuary, there is little standing in the elephants’ way. This often leads to incidents of human-elephant conflict. In the weeks leading up to harvest, farmers must stay up, stay vigilant, and hope it is not their turn to be paid a visit by a peckish pachyderm.
Renowned for their intelligence, elephants know better than to barge into cultivated areas at midday. The Big Life rangers who work to prevent these conflicts have told me they often see groups of males gathering near the edge of the Sanctuary at dusk, as if gathering to plan their tactics before heading into the fields after nightfall. Across Big Life’s area of operation, elephants have been responsible for 95% of the destruction caused by wildlife to farmland in 2022 (with wildlife-inflicted destruction totalling 30 hectares).
Evening light in the yellow-barked acacia forest, Kimana Sanctuary; famous tusker Tolstoy (now deceased) and other bulls walk across Kimana Sanctuary; there is currently no buffer between farmland and wildlands in Amboseli and elephants enter the farmland easily, causing incidents of human-elephant conflict; a large family of elephants crossing the tarmac road, illuminated by an oncoming vehicle; giraffe crossing Kimana Corridor
Protecting farmers and their crops
How can people with limited resources possibly deter the largest terrestrial mammal from eating its way through their livelihoods?
The trick is to get to the elephants before they enter the fields. Farmers shout, use torches, bang corrugated iron, and light small fires around the perimeters of their fields, which is often enough to stop them. But sometimes, the farmers need backup. This is where Big Life Foundation comes in. The organisation maintains close links with local communities, and most community members have mobile phones – and so, the Big Life Radio Room can be notified about potential elephant activity before the mammals get too close. Using Earth Ranger, a revolutionary conservation technology that shows the Radio Room where every single car and unit is in real time, Big Life can quickly deploy the ranger teams closest to the elephants. This dramatically improves the chances of preventing crop raids. Rangers are equipped with robust cars, powerful spotlights, and firecrackers. As a last resort, they can fire blanks from shotguns.
Back at the kitchen hut, kick-off for the upcoming World Cup game is imminent when the radio suddenly jolts into life and muffled Swahili filters through the room. It’s 10pm, and it’s time to move. Four elephants have been spotted on their way to some fields nearby, and a Land Cruiser is coming to pick us up. We feel every bump in the back of the Cruiser as it clatters to our destination, grinning as we avoid hitting our heads on its metal frame and laughing if someone miscalculates their dodge. It is challenging to retain a sense of direction as the sounds and sights of barking dogs, tuneless music, house lights, and passing vehicles blur into one. The town melts away, and we head towards a darker area punctuated by the small fires lit as elephant deterrents. Further on, torchlight shines into the sky, accompanied by raised voices. We are getting closer. Daudi parks the vehicle and stands on the roof to scan the fields with the spotlight. There is not much to see here, but shouting further on and a message from the radio confirm that the elephants are a few minutes away. A short drive soon reveals four large elephants moving steadily toward some maize fields.
A farmer follows a trail of elephant destruction through his maize field. Human-elephant conflict is a regular occurrence for farmers in the region
Raid of the mammoths
If one compares the damage to crops by birds, insects, and rats to that of elephants, the elephants do far less damage. However, it is difficult to tell this to people when groups of six-ton jumbos regularly trample over their crops at 1am.
“Look! There’s Ganesh!” Daniel exclaims with a knowing smile. The Amboseli Trust for Elephants (ATE) has been monitoring this ecosystem’s elephant population for fifty years. According to their records, Ganesh, at the venerable age of 59, is currently the oldest elephant in the area. He is easily recognisable because of his single tusk and frayed ears. “Even though he is mzee (old), he still loves the excitement of crop raiding,” says Daniel.
We drive to within twenty metres of the elephants, our spotlight illuminating their massive frames. They change their course almost immediately – as if they know we have come to blow the whistle on their evening game. They hang around for five minutes, toeing the ground bashfully like guilty schoolkids, before heading towards the Sanctuary in their silent gait. I ask Daniel if they always behaved so well, and he replies, “Tonight was good because everything went without an issue. But sometimes, it can take until the next day to push them out of the fields, and they often run in the opposite direction, which causes more damage. Elephants are very destructive, but sometimes I feel like we are the ones in their way.”
As we rumble back to our base, Lekanayia is chattering excitedly – delighted that Senegal has won. I resist my wavering eyelids as I think back to what David said. The balance of life in this ecosystem is delicately poised and contains many uncertain elements each day. Seasons are more challenging to predict, and droughts like this one feel harsher than before. The human population and livestock populations are rapidly expanding. This is upping pressure on grazing, not just for livestock but also for wildlife. The famed nomadic pastoralist lifestyle of the Maasai has become all but sedentary as previous notions of land use have had to reckon with the more rigid rules of 21st-century property ownership. Humans in this region have always coexisted with wild animals, and communities shared vast open space. But now, these communities are subdividing rangelands to give each individual their share. Fences, small plots, and other arbitrary barriers are springing up, obstructing historic wildlife migration routes, entangling giraffes and antelope, and resulting in incidents like this evening’s, which are life-threatening to humans and animals.
Rangers set out regularly to avert incidents of human-elephant conflict: using fireworks to scare elephants out of farmland; chasing elephants away with a vehicle; chasing elephants from farmland area; on patrol in the agricultural areas to protect farms at night
Unhappy endings following human-elephant conflict
As Daniel said, these incidents don’t always have a happy ending, and one of the most distressing happened in early 2022. Rangers received a call that Tolstoy, the 51-year-old elephant with some of the largest tusks on the planet and one of Amboseli’s most treasured inhabitants, had suffered a severe spear wound to his ankle while raiding crops just outside of Big Life’s area of operation. He was treated and seemed to be doing well, but the spear had penetrated so deeply that it splintered some of the bone. The call that everyone dreaded came in April. Rangers from Kimana Sanctuary reported that Tolstoy was down and unable to get up. What followed was an exhausting day involving members of the Kenya Wildlife Service, Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, and Big Life Foundation to get Tolstoy back to his feet, but the combined efforts were not enough to save him.
Tolstoy’s death due to human-wildlife conflict was tragic, but such deaths are increasingly rare in this ecosystem. Across Big Life’s area of operation in 2021, they recorded zero human mortalities and only four elephant deaths resulting from conflict with humans. Out of a population of around 2,000 elephants. This population size is a remarkable figure on its own, as it marks the highest number of elephants in the Amboseli ecosystem since ATE started recording them 50 years ago.
Elephant numbers are on the rise across Kenya. While the country lost two more of its ‘super-tusker’ icons, Dida and Lugard, in 2022, both of these elephants died from natural causes – which would have been unheard of ten years ago during the peak of the poaching crisis.
Tolstoy and the other crop-raiding elephants do not mean to cause harm, and neither do the farmers trying to protect their livelihoods. Still, as more people settle in this area, interactions like this will become more frequent. This is the case throughout the country, and to prevent instances of human-elephant conflict from spiralling out of control, the work of organisations like Big Life Foundation, Tsavo Trust, the Mara Elephant Project, and the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust is critical for the long-term future of coexistence between people and elephants.
Famous tusker Tolstoy lost his life due to human-elephant conflict after complications arising from a spear wound
Hope for the future
Out of this recent land subdivision also comes opportunity. Big Life works with local people, community leaders, and regional and national governments to find solutions by creating wildlife corridors, maintaining rangelands, and protecting farmland to benefit this ecosystem’s iconic wildlife and people. The organisation has already begun leasing land parcels in strategic areas to ensure the connectivity of wildlife migration routes. They have also constructed over 100km of electric fencing around most of the region’s major farming areas, significantly reducing crop-raiding incidents. The fence comprises crucial wildlife corridors, such as the corridor connecting Amboseli National Park with the Kimana Sanctuary. While the corridor is less than 80m wide at its narrowest point, camera trap footage has shown it to be a great success, used by a diversity of wildlife – from springhares and aardvarks to giraffes and elephants.
Big Life has constructed over 100km of electric fencing to protect both wildlife and farmers from incidents of human-elephant conflict
The future of this landscape is by no means certain. But due to the unwavering dedication of over 350 rangers like those in Kimana Sanctuary, Big Life Foundation has helped maintain the fragile balance of this ecosystem. While there will be many more nights where elephants find themselves in cultivated areas, as long as Big Life receives funding and support, its rangers will also guide them to safety.
Many passionate Africa enthusiasts out there do their utmost to sort the fact from the fiction. These people know perfectly well that male lions are quite capable of hunting (and do so regularly) and that porcupines do not shoot their quills like arrows at would-be attackers. They scoff at the idea of elephants drunk on marula fruits and would never label a spotted hyena as a scavenger. But just how good (and up to date) is your knowledge of African wildlife? And can you separate your safari myths and truths?
Our understanding of animal behaviour, genetics, and evolution is constantly advancing and staying on top of every discovery is almost impossible. So here is an opportunity to pit your knowledge against our expert-level list of safari myths.
Myth: Female hyenas always rank higher than any males in the clan
Truth: Yes, it is true that a hyena clan is almost always led by a formidable matriarch figure and that their societies are predominantly matriarchal. But the familiar adage that even the lowest-ranked female outranks the highest-ranked male is nonsense. Rank is inherited. So, the son of a high-ranking female will outrank any of the females below his mother in the hierarchy (and even his older female siblings).
While most male hyenas will eventually disperse to a different clan, a few opt not to sell their birthright for a veritable mess of pottage and instead stay within their natal clan. Research shows that this tactic pays off, and these philopatric (stay-at-home, essentially) boys sire just as many offspring as those that leave.
Fascinatingly, a young male can even lead a clan if his matriarch mother dies. The story of one such male, Majani, was documented by researchers from the Ngorongoro Hyena Project in an article titled “A king among queens”.
One of the most common safari myths is that female hyenas always rank higher than males
Myth: Dominant male lions are members of a pride
Truth: This is one of the fun safari myths because you will be hard-pressed to find a scientific citation that states outright that male lions are not a permanent pride fixture, and many African mammal reference books still refer to them as such. However, simple long-term observation shows that this is usually not the case.
When free-ranging male lions reach maturity, they often leave their natal pride in the company of brothers or cousins. Failing that, lone teenagers seek out the company of other dispersal males of a similar age. Simply put, there is an advantage in numbers, and these male coalitions can compete for larger territories with access to multiple neighbouring lion prides. They move between prides and spend time with the females, often motivated by the presence of kills or oestrus females, but sometimes apparently for companionship.
When these males are eventually ousted by competitors (and survive the process), they will move off in search of new territory and may spend a few years with another set of lion prides. Lionesses are the genetic guardians of a region for decades at a time – male lions are temporary fixtures for a few years at most. This approach also keeps inbreeding to a minimum.
Do male lions ever really belong to a pride?
Myth: Impalas can delay the birth of their offspring for several weeks
Truth: In fairness, many guides are doing their best to quash this most popular of safari myths, but it is still astonishingly widespread. Impala ewes have no control over their gestation period – the parturition process (birth) is triggered by a complex interaction between the foetus, the mother and a soup of hormones.
The timing of the first rainfall may influence the gestation length slightly because the mother’s nutrient intake influences the development of her foetus. But the difference is measured in days (if that), not weeks, and one should be cautious of drawing hard conclusions. Research of other small ruminants shows that undernutrition at different times of pregnancy – from conception to the third trimester – can influence gestation length differently. Early births may not be due to early rains; they could have resulted from reduced food intake around the time of foetal implantation months prior! The point is that oestrus cycles, conception, implantation, pregnancy, and birth are all complex processes dependent on various factors, and deliberately postponing birth with some kind of animal barometer is beyond the realms of physiological possibility.
Can impala ewes delay the birth of their lambs?
Myth: Black rhinos are short-sighted (contributing to equally short tempers)
Truth: It is widely understood that rhinos have exceptional senses of smell and hearing but notoriously poor eyesight. The research that largely disproves this was published over a decade ago, but the idea of a myopic black rhino still persists. This is not to say that their vision is exceptional. However, a study of their retinal ganglion cell densities suggests that their eyesight is comparable to that of rabbits and only slightly weaker than a domestic cat. The scientists estimate that a black rhino could readily distinguish a human on an open plain at a distance of 200 metres.
Do black rhinos really have terrible eyesight?
Myth: Nile crocodile species are “living fossils”, millions of years old
Truth: Crocodilia species have roamed the earth for around 95 million years, emerging during the Late Cretaceous period. However, in that rather substantial period between then and now, they have undergone many evolutionary changes. The same research that identified the West African crocodile as a separate species (Crocodylus suchus) showed that Nile crocodiles (C. niloticus) as a species have only been around as long as humans. Interestingly, they are also more closely related to American crocodiles than their smaller West African neighbours!
The evolutionary change undergone by crocodiles is much greater than perceived
Myth: Giraffes form no lasting bonds over their lifespan
Truth: Giraffe social structure has long been described as a loose social aggregation, or fission-fusion society, where females randomly move between herds. However, recent long-term studies have revealed a far greater complexity to giraffe sociality than previously believed, almost on par with those of elephant breeding herds. Many of the matrilineal groups researched consisted of three generations of grandmothers, mothers and daughters, and these associations remained stable for years.
One of the widely believed safari myths is that giraffes do not form lasting bonds
Myth: Scrotum imprints in aardvark tracks show it was a male digging
Truth: This is one of our favourites because it has come as something of a shock to many (the author of this article included) that this commonly held belief was not just a fanciful leap of logic but a physical impossibility. Aardvarks – the prolific diggers of the bushveld – have internal testes, like elephants and rhinos. However, the males and females both have two round scent glands that touch the ground when the animal is lying on its haunches. Oops.
One safari myth is that one can identify if a male aardvark was doing the digging by looking at the imprints of the scrotum in its tracks. Click here for more pics from Rudolf Hug
Having now sorted through the facts and the fiction, we want to hear from you! How many of these safari myths caught you out, and how many did you already know? What’s your favourite safari myth? Leave us a comment below the story (login orget the app to comment – instructions on how below this story).
Maasai warriors jump at sunrise near their village on the outskirts the Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
Treehuggers + pyromaniac kites + your mid-year safari
TREEHUGGERS – the term used disparagingly by some self-appointed conservation experts to describe environmental activists. How desperately ironic then that the primary reason that some of these experts are promoting the culling of huge numbers of elephants is to save the trees!
teamAG had a busy festive season; safari enquiries have picked up hugely since the dark days of Covid – YAY! Also, we have rebuilt the safari portion of our website – check it out. Expect more safari options to come online in the coming months, and then stand by for that big announcement in a few weeks/months (African time) about more affordable safaris that leave a lasting legacy at ground level here in Africa. Exciting times …
Thanks for the messages and valuable info in response to my question in last week’s newsletter about the conservation benefits of breeding tigers in Africa. I am also in touch with the owners of the farm and collating info with the view to a future story. Fittingly, in an unrelated incident an escaped pet tiger was shot a few days ago in the suburbs of Johannesburg
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
Longing to follow in the footsteps of Africa’s greatest tuskers? Or witness the ethereal, otherworldly landscapes of fossilised salt pans? We have two magical safaris on offer…
Walking with giants in Tsavo – 13 days – From US$11,290 pps
This bygone-era walking safari tracks the wise old elephant herds as they follow the Galana River through Tsavo, Kenya. Sharing the elephants’ home on equal footing & encountering the famous maneless lions, gerenuks & hirolas (the world’s rarest antelope) of Tsavo will supersede any previous game-viewing experiences you’ve had. Stay in beautiful colonial camps along the way & explore the surroundings on game drives in the afternoons. The perfect balance between comfort & adventure.
Botswana salt pans – 4 days – From US$925 pps
On the eastern fringes of the Kalahari lies a collection of huge salt pans – desolate, flat landscapes that stretch as far as the eye can see. This safari goes beyond the Big 5 and allows you the chance to witness the second-largest zebra migration in the world (during green season). Popular pans you can visit include Makgadikgadi Pans (bedecked in massive baobab trees) and Nxai Pan (where you’ll find the famous Baines’ baobabs). Plus there are plenty of activities on offer for families.
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
I am ecstatic to see so many members of the AG tribe setting travel plans into motion with the help of our safari experts. Over the next few months we have travellers packing their bags to experience the Big 5 in reserves in South Africa, the tuskers of Tsavo and Amboseli, the mighty waters of Victoria Falls, the islands of the Indian Ocean, and the Serengeti migration – just to name a few. But with all the options out there, where to start? If you’re planning your mid-year safari, check out our first story below: we’ve prepped a guide on the best places to safari between June and August.
In our second story, we’re putting the spotlight on one of Africa’s most hardy and courageous creatures: the warthog. No safari is complete without time spent observing the entertaining antics of these characters, which will reveal a wealth of personality and attitude.
Story 2 https://africageographic.com/stories/warthog/
THE WARTHOG
Warthogs are the fast and courageous tusked pigs of Africa. Known for their haggard looks, the warthog is an entertaining sight on any safari
From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson
Anyone who has ever experienced a wildfire will be able to attest to how terrifying they are. Yet as the skies turn a smoky red, the kites and hawks wheel overhead, snatching up the creatures fleeing from the flames in a savage feeding frenzy. It’s all very Edgar Allan Poe…
Did you know there is anecdotal evidence that black kites deliberately spread fires? For thousands of years, Australia’s Aboriginal peoples have believed that these “firehawks” carry burning twigs to set new areas alight. There is enough evidence that scientists are investigating this theory.
So here’s my question for reserve managers, ecologists, and rangers across Africa. The stories originate from Australia, but black kites are also found throughout much of our continent. So have you ever encountered a pyromaniac black kite? Because if so, I know of some researchers that would be very eager to talk.
Sabi Sands big cat safari
And more from Jamie:
“I’ve just returned from our five-night Sabi Sands big cat safari – one filled with incredible sightings, spectacular scenery, and countless belly laughs. It unequivocally goes down as one of my favourite safaris of all time.
For genuine nature lovers, January is a magnificent time to visit the bushveld, and ours was a group of well-seasoned safari-goers with enough experience and insight to appreciate the majesty of the unfolding summer. Not for nothing is the Sabi Sand Game Reserve considered one of the leopard capitals of Africa, and it certainly lived up to its reputation for our safari. We saw four different leopards during our six-day sojourn, and nearly every drive delivered a rosetted pelage for our indulgence. Yet it was the quality of these sightings, not the quantity, that made the experience truly special.
Keep an eye out for the full safari report-back in the coming weeks, featuring some fantastic images from our photographically talented guests!”
WATCH: Witness the moments leading up to and following the magical birth of a lion cub. This lioness gave birth to her cub away from the antics of the pride. A special moment captured in Mala Mala Game Reserve, South Africa (01:18). Click here to watch
For some reason, history has marked the warthog as an object of lampoonery. From the happy-go-lucky Pumba to being listed as one of Africa’s “Ugly 5”, warthogs always seem somewhat unfairly caricatured. There is nothing intrinsically wrong with a bit of humour on safari (and they certainly won’t be in the slightest bit bothered), but it is well worth remembering that there is always more to wild animals than meets the eye.
For a start, warthogs are fast, hardy and courageous. And a bit of time spent observing their antics will reveal a wealth of personality and attitude beneath that rather homely façade.
Which warthog?
Unbeknownst to most, there are two species of warthogs roaming the African continent – the common warthog (Phacochoerus africanus) and the desert warthog (Phacochoerus aeithiopicus). As the name implies, the former is the more widely distributed of the two and is found throughout much of sub-Saharan Africa. The desert warthog is restricted to the Horn of Africa, extending from south-eastern Ethiopia through Somalia and central Kenya. They can be distinguished from their common cousins by a complete absence of incisor teeth. Neither species survives well in forest habitats.
A common warthog (left) and desert warthog (right)
The desert warthog was a surprise to researchers of the early 2000s. Until then, the species P. aeithiopicus was known to science but believed to have gone extinct in South Africa during the late 19th century. The warthogs of the Horn of Africa were thought to be a variant of P. africanus. However, morphological and genetic analysis revealed the desert warthogs to be the surviving members of P. aethiopicus.
Apart from minor morphological differences, the two species share most physical and behavioural features. They are both heavy-headed members of the Suid (pig) family, with modified canine teeth extending out of their mouths as tusks. Each warthog has two sets of tusks: the upper maxillary pair that in males may grow over 25cm in length and the shorter but razor-sharp mandibular pair. Like the tusks of elephants, these continue to grow throughout the warthog’s life. Though not as valuable as elephants’ ivory, warthog ivory is carved and traded.
With only a thin layer of hair on their bodies and little subcutaneous fat, warthogs are vulnerable to low temperatures
The conical facial protuberances for which warthogs are named are outgrowths of thickened skin believed to serve a defensive purpose. Those of mature boars are particularly well-developed, and the suborbital pair below their eyes can protrude as much as 15cm, conferring a somewhat alien shape to their faces. Scent glands are positioned at the base of each tusk and corner of the eyes that both sexes use to mark sleeping and feeding areas and waterholes. (This rubbing behaviour is often wrongly interpreted as scratching.)To complete the oil-painting that is the warthog, the grey, wrinkled skin is covered by a sparse layer of bristly fur, and they appear almost bald but for the ridge of mane that runs down the centre of their backs. The absurdly skinny tail ends in a tuft of bristles and is held upright when the animal is alarmed or fleeing. Warthogs have minimal subcutaneous fat and this, combined with a thin covering of hair, makes them vulnerable to extreme temperatures, particularly cold. They will huddle together below ground to stay warm at night and often only emerge several hours after sunrise on cool, cloudy days.
The warthog’s conical facial protuberances are outgrowths of thickened skin believed to serve a defensive purpose. The pair below the eyes can protrude as much as 15cm on mature boars
Warthogs are primarily grazers and spend most of the morning and late afternoon foraging. This they do with rump raised skyward, resting on roughened pads on their carpal (wrist) joints. Warthogs exhibit omnivorous tendencies and will supplement their diets with insects, eggs and even carrion – they have even been known to chase cheetahs off kills to grab a bite or two. They are prolific diggers, especially during the dry season, when they survive predominantly on bulbs, rhizomes, and roots. Like other pig family members, their snouts are well-adapted for digging and rooting, with an extra prenasal bone serving as a support and attachment for muscles and ligaments. The top of the nasal disc is also hardened and shovel-like.
Warthogs spend most of the morning and late afternoon foraging. Here, a young warthog enjoys the sumptuous tenderness of water lilies
Warthogs are strictly diurnal and retreat to a network of burrows before the fall of darkness. They can dig out their own tunnels but often opt for the more efficient approach of renovating abandoned aardvark networks. Interestingly, these are often shared with nocturnal porcupines as differing diel cycles make the two species ideally suited bedfellows. These burrows also serve as boltholes for warthogs that have attracted the attention of one of their many predators.\
Sound(er) and fury
Though not strictly territorial, warthogs generally remain within a home range throughout their lives and have an intimate knowledge of the terrain. If attacked, their first defence is always to flee, and their turn of speed is simply astonishing. Not only are they capable of attaining speeds of close to 50km/hour, but their acceleration would shame some of the fanciest car models. They aim for the nearest burrow and disappear bottom first, with razor-sharp tusks facing front and centre to deter the more determined pursuers.
The first defence of a warthog under attack is to flee
If the warthog fails to find refuge, it will fight fiercely to defend itself or its piglets. Though hyenas, wild dogs (painted wolves), leopards and lions are all potential predators, many do not walk away from such hunts unscathed. Though the top tusks are more for show than anything else, the bottom pair continually rubs against the upper, creating a razor edge easily capable of slicing through skin.
As a side note, many a novice guide or tracker has got the fright of their career when foolishly walking in front of a seemingly innocuous hole in the ground without giving it a suitable berth. The experience of 100-odd kilograms of pig flying past your legs at light speed is not soon forgotten and is at best, a learning experience, and at worst, may evoke the need for a few reconstructive surgeries and extensive physiotherapy.
The warthog will fight fiercely if unable to retreat from a predator in time
This little piggy…
Warthog boars also use their tusks during the rut at the start of the dry season. Forehead to forehead, these dramatic fights can last for hours as competitors thrust and parry, often leaving both parties bloodied and exhausted. The fruits of their labours (so to speak) arrive with the next season’s rains, as tiny piglets begin to emerge from below ground on wobbly legs.
Female warthogs can give birth to litters of up to eight piglets at a time
Beauty may well be in the eye of the beholder regarding adult warthogs, but their piglets are undeniably heart-meltingly winsome. Females can give birth to litters of up to eight piglets at a time, so they are almost ludicrously tiny during their first forays into the wide world. The sows live together in sounders – most likely consisting of related females – and will care for and suckle each other’s piglets. The vulnerable youngsters very quickly grow a line of white fur along the bottom of their cheeks, presumably to mimic tusks as nature’s way of making them seem less edible.
Unfortunately, it has no deterrent effect, and warthog piglets are preyed upon by everything from the larger predators to eagles and snakes. Less than half will survive their first year, despite the mother’s brave and fierce attempts to defend them. Surviving females stay with their mothers in their natal groups, but subadult males eventually wander off and form bachelor groups with other youngsters. It will likely be several years before they are large enough to compete for mating rights.
Mature males only earn mating rights a few years into adulthood
Final thoughts
Almost any safari is all but guaranteed to yield at least one sighting of a warthog. Chances are there will be a sounder or two that spends the day in and around your lodge. So it makes sense to fully appreciate them not just based on their rather haggard looks but for the fascinating creatures they are – warts and all.
A black-backed jackal at the losing end of a warthog tusk. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya
Hot air balloon over the Namib Desert, Namibia. Photographer of the Year 2019 entrant.
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
It’s back! + fab photos & gregarious giraffes
It’s Friday the 13th! If you’re quaking at the thought, you probably believe that rhino horn cures cancer or that gifting a diamond will bring you love forever. Either way, hakuna matata
Tigers in South Africa’s Great Karoo grassland biome – is this conservation? The 6,100 ha reserve known as Tiger Canyon in the Free State claims to be a conservation program for endangered wild tigers, with ‘various separate territories for the wild tigers and cheetahs to thrive in and survive’, where your game drive vehicle is ‘enclosed to protect you from … the tigers’.
Regarding the cheetahs, the Tiger Canyon website says, ‘walking with them is often possible … this allows photographers to get eye level and low-level shots more easily’. Tiger Canyon has historically provided cheetahs for the Endangered Wildlife Trust’s ongoing efforts to repopulate other reserves in Southern Africa.
Back to my question. Ignoring, if you can, the relatively small size of the reserve and dodgy cheetah monetisation, is breeding tigers outside of their natural range helpful to conservation? Email me here. No haters, please; I am interested in genuine discussion and learning.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Our 2022 Photographer of the Year, Alex Brackx, clinched his title with an image of a zebra’s last seconds of life, capturing a desperate battle for survival – an aspect of life central to our fascination with the wildlife of Africa. We invited the seasoned photographer to share some of his favourite images with the AG tribe. Alex’s portrayals of life on the African savannah will have you reaching for your cameras and longing for time out in the bushveld. See Alex’s gallery in our first story below.
As the tallest animal on Earth, the giraffe does not exactly keep a low profile. Yet, despite a worldwide enchantment with these wonders of evolution, our understanding of their social structures is lacking. But research reveals that giraffes have complex social structures not dissimilar to those of elephants. Read more about the behaviours uncovered in our second story below.
Did you know that the glass frogs in the Americas can make themselves more translucent by sequestering red blood cells in their livers? This removes most of the red colour from the blood, enhancing the effect of the translucent abdominal skin and hiding the muscles and organs. As a result, the frog becomes next to invisible on the leaves of tropical forests, the ultimate camouflage to protect it from predators while it’s sleeping.
The real mystery is how they selectively pool nearly 90% of the red blood cells in one place without triggering a clotting cascade, yet they still clot when injured. The physiological explanation may have profoundly practical applications in human medicine.
Dust off your cameras!
Photographer of the Year 2023 is just around the corner!
We are pleased to announce that entries open on 1st February. You have three months to get your entries in before judging during May and the winners announcement at the end May.
There are cash prizes to the value of $10,000 and an epic safari to Northern Tuli Game Reserve in Botswana up for grabs. Do you have any impressive pics that celebrate Africa? Check out the entry details here and get snapping.
Proudly sponsored by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.
WATCH: What happens when an ostrich and gemsbok come to blows? Find out in this footage of a scuffle between an ostrich trying to protect its chicks and a contentious gemsbok, captured at a waterhole in the Namib Desert, Namibia (04:56). Click here to watch
Our understanding of wild animal behaviour is ever-evolving. Analysis of available research reveals what many experts have been suggesting for decades: giraffe probably have a complex social structure that is not dissimilar to elephants.
Studying the nuances of their social structures is a complex process but is vital to unravelling evolutionary histories and designing effective conservation measures. For most large mammals, we have at least a rudimentary grasp of their social ethology. Yet, despite being one of the largest mammals on earth, the giraffe seems to have flown under the radar for an astonishing amount of time.
Until the 2000s, behavioural ecologists described giraffe as “socially aloof” (Estes 1991). The perception was that their groupings were fluid in nature, with no lasting bonds between individuals. Interpreting their social cues has been further complicated by the subtleties of their communication. Elephants and carnivores, for example, exhibit a range of vocal and body language signals that aid in interpreting the dynamics between individuals. On the other hand, giraffe are largely silent (though they do hum at low frequencies below human hearing) and apparently inexpressive. To this day, giraffe communication systems are poorly understood.
A herd of giraffe cows and calves
In order to investigate giraffe social structure, researchers from the University of Bristol conducted a review of 404 scientific papers on the behaviour and social organisation of giraffe. They aimed to test the hypotheses that giraffe have complex cooperative social systems and that these are matrilineal. In other words, whether or not giraffes form stable groups of females, whether females stay in their natal groups while males disperse and if, within female groups, individuals play a supportive role in raising and protecting calves.
The researchers found that giraffe group sizes usually consist of between three to nine individuals, though lone animals were often recorded. The groups were most likely to be kin (with the strongest association between mothers and grown offspring). In many instances, these associations remained stable for years and often consisted of three generations of related individuals. These matrilineal groups themselves seem to exist in a larger, more fluid society, with groups of related females associating with each other or males within their range. Giraffe mothers have been observed leaving their calves in a creche cared for by another adult. Cows also show distress behaviours following the death of another individual’s calf. These behaviours strongly suggest that giraffe cooperate during breeding.
The authors’ investigation also demonstrated that giraffe spend up to 30% of their lives in a post-reproductive state – similar to humans and some whales, which survive past the cessation of fertility. Female elephants and giraffe are capable of reproducing right up until the end of their natural lives but their fertility declines as they age and the time between successive calves increases considerably. The ‘Grandmother hypothesis’ (a theory that explains this phenomenon) suggests that post-reproductive peak females survive to help raise successive generations. Though this theory has received the usual degree of scientific disagreement, the finding emphasises the potential importance of older giraffe. As seen in elephants, it is possible that these old females are instrumental as repositories of knowledge, which may help giraffe survive times of drought or famine.
With giraffe populations in freefall (see Giraffes: The Silent Extinction), research such as this is essential in designing successful conservation interventions and encouraging the recognition of their levels of intelligence and complexity. Though further research is needed to fully unravel the intricacies of giraffe social structure, it is evident that they are not nearly as simple as once believed. The implications of this newfound understanding extend not just to interpreting the lives of females but also older males. Again, similar to elephants, the bulls may also have an important social role, and their selective removal (such as through hunting or culling) could have far-reaching effects.
As co-author Dr Zoe Muller explains, “Conservation measures will be more successful if we have an accurate understanding of the species’ behavioural ecology. If we view giraffes as a highly socially complex species, this also raises their ‘status’ towards being a more complex and intelligent mammal that is increasingly worthy of protection.”
Alex Brackx’s winning photo of a zebra’s last seconds of life was the first predation photo to win Photographer of the Year. There is something about Alex’s dramatic capture of a split-second in the lives of this cheetah and zebras, locked in a desperate battle for survival, that transcends the many predation photos that AG receives for consideration. “I will remember those last seconds for the rest of my life,” says Alex of his winning Photographer of the Year image.
Alex is a wildlife photographer who started to pursue nature photography in 2010 while travelling in South and Central America. Through further travels in Asia and Europe, he began to hone his craft, travelling to film and take photos of wildlife. For Alex, it is a thrill to photograph his observations of animals, birds, landscapes, jungles, deserts and oceans.
In this gallery, we share a few of Alex’s favourite images. You can see more of Alex’s work on Instagram, Facebook and Youtube, where he regularly shares his images and thoughts.
“A big thanks to Africa Geographic for believing in my pictures and for giving me and my wife the chance to discover Botswana on the Photographer of the Year winner’s trip!” says Alex.
Alex favours his Nikon D5 and Nikon D500 for capturing wildlife, as well the Nikon24-70mm (F2.8), 120-300mm (F2.8), and 500mm (F4.0) lenses.
Lion family in the early morning. I took this photo of a lion family on a beautiful morning in the Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya, in 2022. This family was reunited after two of the cubs had been hiding high up in a tree for a full day and part of the night. I love the colours of this picture. Nikon D5 | 135mm | f/4 | 1/2500 sec | ISO 640Zebra at sunset. I took this photo in Amboseli National Park, Kenya, at sunset. It was winter and the sky wasn’t clear. What I managed to get was this mysterious sunset instead. I loved this moment when the zebras were moving from their feeding places to their ‘night’ places – like a small daily migration. Nikon D5 | 300mm | f/2.8 | 1/1250 sec | ISO 1250Village weaver: a difficult new beginning. I captured this image at Lake Baringo in Kenya while standing up in a small fishing boat. The skills the weavers have for building their nests is simply amazing – especially evident when one watches them starting from scratch. On my five-week journey through Kenya I had the chance to observe many different species of weavers. Nikon D5 | 500mm | f/4 | 1/5000 sec | ISO 1250Photographer of the Year 2022 winning image: Last seconds of life, Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. A mother zebra makes one final attempt to separate her foal from its pursuant – but fails. Nikon D5 | 500mm | f/10 | 1/1000 sec | ISO 640Dwarf mongoose, Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. True to its name, the dwarf mongoose is the smallest mongoose. In fact, it is the smallest African carnivore. I love the mammals that appear when you least expect them. Nikon D5 | 500mm | f/4 | 1/3200 sec | ISO 640Serval hunting. Seeing a serval – let alone photographing one – was one of my biggest dreams before I left for Kenya. On the LAST morning of my stay in the Maasai Mara National Reserve we found one and it was amazing to see this beautiful cat walking through the long grass and hunting. What a moment. Nikon D5 | 240mm | f/2.8 | 1/5000 sec | ISO 640Black-backed jackal. Jackals are one of my favourite animals in Africa. I had a photo in mind the second time I went on a photographic trip to Maasai Mara National Reserve. It took many attempts to capture this: a jackal surrounded by a bouquet of wet grass in the morning. Nikon D5 | 300mm | f/2.8 | 1/2500 sec | ISO 400Evening stroll of a juvenile lion in the last rays of daylight, Maasai Mara, National Reserve, Kenya. This young lion was crawling to the ‘older’ group of lions after his daytime rest. The sunsets on the Mara can be incredibly beautiful and dramatic – I just love it there. Nikon D5 | 280mm | f/5 | 1/400 sec | ISO 2500Speckled mousebird, Lake Elementaita, Kenya. These birds are a very interesting, strange-looking species. Nikon D5 | 500mm | f/4 | 1/1000 sec | ISO 2500African fish eagle hunting. These eagles thrive at the big lakes in central Kenya. This picture was taken at Lake Baringo in 2021. In 2020 Lake Baringo reached its highest level since 1932. Months of sustained torrential rains in 2020 caused this lake in Kenya’s Rift Valley to flood its banks, forcing hundreds of people to flee their homes, hotels and farms. At the time, officials said the immense floods showed the devastating impact of climate change on East Africa. In the summer of 2021, the water level at this lake was still very high. Nikon D5 | 210mm | f/2.8 | 1/8000 | ISO 640Zebra family, Amboseli National Park, Kenya. I was amazed at how strong the bonds of this zebra family were. They kept rubbing themselves against each other, sniffing each other and playing together. Nikon D5 | 300mm | f/5 | 1/800 sec | ISO 1250
Hunting buffalo is so exhausting. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. Photographer of the Year 2021 entrant.
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
Safari seasons + African penguins + Mara photographic safari
Sixteen million. That’s how many of you have read the natural history stories on our website during the last decade. Our largest support base continues to be USA and Canada (39%), with African countries coming in second (23%) and UK/Euro just behind at 21%. Thanks for joining us on our journey to celebrate Africa and do good via education.
That’s 16m individuals that have taken on board the science and considered opinions that reflect the complexity and reality of life at ground level here in Africa.
But 16m is not nearly enough, and we have a long road ahead. The misleading versions of African realities peddled by social media algorithms and some mainstream news media continue to receive more attention than ‘boring’ accurate facts. And that, ladies and gents, is the battle ahead. How to keep humankind’s focus on the biological realities and away from agenda-driven misinformation.
You can help by recommending this newsletter to a friend (or three). Help us provide the lens that empowers Africa’s people to protect her biodiversity. Asante sana
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
Bush or beach? We have two exceptional safaris to share this week: a unique option for avid wildlife photographers, and a special offer for the sun seekers:
Maasai Mara specialist photographic safari – 9 days – From US$ 5,100pps
Join award-winning photographer Arnfinn Johansen on this exclusive safari for four guests to Maasai Mara, Kenya. Enjoy use of a modified photographer’s vehicle and off-roading permit – increasing your opportunity for taking truly unique photos.
Zanzibar beach holiday – 8 days – From US$ 3,180pps
This special offer on an 8-day escape to the island PARADISE of Zanzibar will have your toes curling in delight. Spend your days at Elewana Kilindi Zanzibar chilling in a hammock gazing over the ocean, or out snorkelling, kayaking and enjoying the warm azure-blue waters.
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Those blessed to have spent the past festive season on the white beaches of Boulders Beach, Cape Town, can confirm that there are not many creatures as endearing as the tuxedoed African penguin. These endangered birds are well-known for their comical nature, monogamous partnerships and for adapting to life among people where necessary. Read all there is to know about these charming penguins, and the threats they face, in our first story below.
When is the best time to safari in Africa? The African continent encompasses diverse vegetation, climates, topography and animal life – meaning completely unique safaris can be enjoyed at different times of year in varying locations. So where is the best place to go for your safari in the coming months? We’ve put together a guide for your safari in March, April and May. Check it out in our second story below.
Did you know that when Stevenson-Hamilton became warden of the Kruger National Park (then Sabie Game Reserve) in 1902, there were no elephants? Having just spent a few days driving through the park, I found that almost impossible to imagine.
In the 19th century, the Ivory Trail (which ran straight through Kruger) attracted an assortment of larger-than-life hunters and ivory traders, crooks and conspirators. They, along with several wars, denuded the region of most of its elephants. The survivors fled to neighbouring Zimbabwe and Mozambique. Harry Wolhuter (one of the first game rangers of the park) described the return of the first elephants in his memoirs. Today, the Kruger teems with elephants – thanks largely to the devoted rangers who poured sweat, tears and no small amount of blood back into the park to protect them.
I’m not one for resolutions, but going into 2023, I am thankful for those who give hope for the future of our protected spaces and species – be they rangers, scientists or enthusiastic visitors.
ART SAFARI WITH AG
Trudy Duffy recently joined our Greater Kruger art safaris led by professional artist Alison Nicholls in Timbavati Private Nature Reserve and Manyeleti Game Reserve. Read her touching note to teamAG:
I am writing to thank you for organising our art safaris. You stuck with us through challenging times, adapting to new conditions and individualising itineraries. All travel and connections went smoothly. And once in South Africa, you checked in on us to make sure we were safe and satisfied.
These art safaris go beyond looking at animals to “seeing” animals and their environments, as artist strive to do. The variety of wildlife and plant life in such a short time, in such a small space, was incredible, precious and overwhelming. We had the best line of sight and company, and the expertise of our guides and trackers. And Alison was a wonderful, patient, encouraging teacher, leader and artist.
My sketchbook is filled with lines, shapes, impressions
from the animals moving about their lives
My sketchbook reflects my experience at this point
still unformed, rough draft
South Africa, beautiful, complex, teasing, soulful
unfinished
Regards, Trudy
WATCH: Our lives depend on biodiversity, and biodiversity depends on us. But our footprint is threatening it all. Can the human race invent new ways to inhabit our planet – to safeguard biodiversity? A thought-provoking short from UNESCO (01:28). Click here to watch
For most people, “penguin” immediately brings to mind an image of hunched figures huddled together, braced against the icy winds of the long Antarctic night – possibly accompanied by the soothing tones of David Attenborough. It is not a word that conjures the image of tuxedoed little birds sharing their space with bikini-clad summer holidaymakers on the sweltering beaches of South Africa. And yet, that is precisely what thousands of tourists flock to see: the endangered African penguins of the Cape, often as part of a dream African safari.
The African penguin
The African penguin (Spheniscus demersus) is found on the southwestern coast of Africa in established colonies on 24 different islands and rocks off the Namibian and South African shorelines. While they breed within this range, their presence has been recorded as far north as Gabon and Mozambique. Historically, penguins avoided mainland nesting sites due to the risk of large-animal predation, particularly by leopards, caracals and jackals. However, a burgeoning human population reduced potential threats and kept large predators at bay. As a result, the first trailblazing penguin pairs began to nest on the mainland around forty years ago. Today, the two best-known mainland colonies are in South Africa, one at Boulders Beach in Simon’s Town and the other at Stony Point in Betty’s Bay.
The penguins proved to be quite happy to adapt to life among people, and from one breeding pair in 1985, Simon’s Town now welcomes over 1,000 couples every year. The penguins merrily trundle over beach blankets, walk the town’s streets, nest in gardens and irritably snap sharp beaks at ankles that stray too close to their eggs. Presumably unconcerned by their own celebrity, these charming little characters all but take over the town, attracting droves of visitors eager to observe their Spheniscidae antics.
Members of the African Penguin colony at Boulders Beach in South Africa gather at the water’s edge
Observers are well-rewarded because the penguins are endlessly entertaining. Part of their appeal is that they are easy to anthropomorphise. Their black-and-white markings are positively debonair, and the bare pink patch of skin (which has a thermoregulatory function) gives the impression of cynically raised eyebrows. Touchingly, African penguins are monogamous, often returning year after year with the same partner to raise the next generation as a dedicated team. They are also innately comical. Though webbed feet and flipper wings are perfect for the open seas, they do not make for good land legs, and African penguins are endearingly clumsy when out of the water. Throw in the donkey-like bray of their call (hence the former name, the jackass penguin) and the scene is set for genuine amusement.
Yet as delightful as the tableau of beaches packed with penguins may be, the truth is that African penguins face a sobering future. Their populations are believed to be just 2% of what they were at the start of the 20th century, and a 2019 count yielded a historic low of less than 21,000 breeding pairs.
A pair of penguins groom one another – their black and white markings, and bare pink patch of skin creating a striking image
Quick facts about the African penguin
Height:
60-70cm
Mass:
2.2-3.5kg (males slightly larger)
Social structure:
Monogamous pairs, breeding colonies
Incubation period:
40 days
Conservation status:
Endangered
Fish, feathers and fuzz
The penguins’ decline over the past century can be partly attributed to the horrendous exploitation of their eggs, which were enjoyed as a delicacy by their thousands until the 1970s. However, the population has declined by over 65% in the last twenty years. One of the primary reasons for this is the decrease in prey availability due to climate change and the commercial overfishing of the oceans. African penguins hunt oil-rich pelagic fish species such as sardines and anchovies but are increasingly reliant on squid, octopus, krill and shrimp to supplement their diets.
A food shortage can be particularly detrimental before and after their moulting period. Once every year, adult penguins undergo a so-called “catastrophic” moult. They return to land to replace old and damaged feathers with a new, healthy covering of insulating, waterproof plumage. This process takes two to five weeks, during which the penguin is totally land-bound, dishevelled and understandably cantankerous. Unable to hunt, they will lose 40-50% of their body mass before returning to the water. To survive this ordeal, they must bulk up ahead of time and work hard to recover condition afterwards. And they have to travel further and further to find the food they need.
Once every year, adult African penguins undergo a “catastrophic” moult. During this time, penguins are land-bound (see more pics from Kim Paffen here)
All hands (and flippers) on deck
Complete with a brand-new suit, the next arduous mission can begin. Finding a mate is the first order of business for newly fledged adults (aged four to six) ready to breed for the first time. A suitable partner is wooed by a complex dance of head twisting, bowing and beak tapping. If the seduction is successful, the honeymooners search for a suitable nest site. The pressure on this budding relationship is substantial: if breeding fails for any reason, the penguins waste little time laying blame and separate in search of a new partner.
Unlike their cousins in Antarctica, the African penguins are more concerned with keeping the eggs safe from scorching temperatures and blazing sunlight. The thick layers of guano on the islands provide the perfect nesting material, but sandy depressions, rock crevices, and manmade structures are utilised on the mainland. The best nesting sites (those with ample shade, or a cooling breeze, for example) are at a premium and aggressively defended by those couples fortunate enough to snag them. Penguin pairs that have established a successful nesting site in the past will opt to return to it year after year.
The female will lay one or two eggs, and the couple shares the 40-day incubation period, defending the eggs from seagulls, mongooses, and even other penguins (especially frustrated singles). The tiny chicks hatch as fluffy brown bundles with white bellies, ravenous appetites, and disproportionately prominent voices. Their parents will take turns heading out to hunt, braving tides, rocks and hungry Cape fur seals to return with a massive belly full of fish. It is a dangerous journey, and on occasion, one parent may not return, leaving their now solitary partner to raise the chicks as a single parent.
The first chick to hatch will always be the stronger of two siblings, but unlike birds of prey, penguins often successfully raise two chicks from one clutch. The younger sibling may have to wait for an older brother or sister to leave home before they can monopolise their parents’ attention. However, dwindling food supplies have placed increasing pressure on parental penguins, and under dire circumstances, the second chick may be left to starve.
A growing penguin chick fed on hearty meals of regurgitated fish porridge can fledge in as little as 60 days and join its peers on the beach in a crèche. Here they will gather their courage (and learn the tidal ropes) before setting out for a few years spent predominantly at sea. In the open waters, they will encounter fish for the first time and will have to learn the group hunting techniques practised by the adults. This oceanic initiation claims about 60% of all fledgling penguins. The survivors return to land to moult and grow their adult plumage, complete with a fingerprint pattern of black spots on their white undersides.
The grey plumage of sub-adult African penguins is distinctly different from that of their parents
Between the devil and the deep blue
Unsurprisingly, the beguiling African penguins have won over thousands of ardent fans since they first waddled onto the mainland. Several organisations are working hard to halt the population decline. This conservation work involves everything from monitoring and studying existing colonies to dealing with once-off disaster events like oil spills from tankers.
SANCCOB (the Southern African Foundation for the Conservation of Coastal Birds) takes in around 1,000 birds annually. Abandoned chicks are hand-reared, and sick or injured birds are treated and released back into the wild. In addition, BirdLife South Africa’s African Penguin Conservation project, in partnership with SANCCOB and CapeNature, is working to establish a breeding colony at De Hoop Nature Reserve, with successful breeding milestones already achieved in the project. (You can read more about their project and contribute to this work here.)
Naturally, the African penguin’s most crucial conservation concern is competition with commercial fisheries and subsequent declining fish stocks. Fortunately, the industrial fishing ban around False Bay dating back to the 1980s has dramatically benefited the penguins of both Simon’s Town and Stony Point. A temporary restriction around Robben Island was also shown to improve breeding success rates.
African penguins are under threat due to declining fish stocks
Where and when?
Penguins are usually present and may be encountered year-round at Boulders and Foxy Beaches in Simon’s Town and Stony Point Nature Reserve in Betty’s Bay. However, many adult birds spend their time at sea outside the breeding season. The best penguin viewing starts during the summer (around December), and by April, the breeding season reaches its zenith, and the beaches and surrounds are packed with besuited penguins. In South Africa, most penguins moult between September and January, making this the best time of year to encounter them in various states of déshabillé.
It is important to remember that as comfortable as the penguins are waddling among people, they should be given the appropriate space and respect. African penguins may be cute, plucky, sassy or any other number of anthropomorphic adjectives we can think of, but they are still endangered wild animals. And they have razor-sharp beaks.
African penguins are monogamous, returning year after year with the same partner to raise the next generation as a dedicated team
Mara Triangle Conservancy, Maasai Mara National Reserve
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
New year, new adventures
Our 2023 resolution is to continue to uncover new, responsible safari options and fascinating stories for you – our tribe of passionate travelling conservationists.
This week sees us taking a festive break in the bushveld, but have no fear: we’ll be back with your regular dose of African celebration next week.
If your resolutions for next year include that special African safari, start the discussion now, and we’ll help you plan your epic adventure.
Celebrating the wide open spaces of Africa in the shadow of Mount Ololokwe. Samburu National Reserve, Kenya. Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant.
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
Ultimate bush/beach combos + the human population problem
What a ride 2022 has been! Some good, some bad and plenty of freak’n weird stuff :-0
From awe-inspiring images of outer space by the James Webb Space Telescope to Russia invading Ukraine, and gender-fluidity and cancel culture becoming ubiquitous. Then we had SBF and the collapse of Crypto, increasing climate change impacts and the Covid long-tail impacting health and economies. This was indeed a year to remember.
All this against the backdrop of algorithmically fuelled nutters dominating social media ‘engagement’ in the race for advertising revenue while normal, reasoned voices are sidelined. And parents of young kids continue to outsource their core responsibilities to brain-frying mobile phones as humankind marches determinedly towards zombification.
AND YET Africa continues to beat its own drum and be what it is – a gobsmackingly awesome continent, a place to reboot and recover. Expect an announcement by teamAG in Q1 2023 that will deliver more affordable safaris and responsible travel opportunities with demonstrated benefits for Africa’s people and ecosystems.
Picture your perfect African holiday – are you perched atop a game drive vehicle, sipping sundowners and gazing over a herd of elephants? Or are you stretched out on the white sands of a balmy tropical paradise, whiling away the hours in seaside bliss? Luckily, there’s no need to choose, and a traditional combination of a bush and beach holiday is one of the most popular approaches to the ultimate African adventure. Our first story below is a comprehensive collection of the best combos for your next bush-beach holiday.
A recent study reveals that Africa’s biodiversity is under threat from human population growth, resource exploitation & climate change. Read our second story below on what needs to be done to protect Africa’s biodiversity and prevent the loss of its wild habitats and species.
Here’s wishing the AG tribe a blessed festive season filled with adventure and rejuvenation of the soul!
Given the time of year, it is appropriate to include a suitably festive fact for this week’s newsletter. Unfortunately, African wildlife does not tend to feature heavily in the symbolism of the various holidays being celebrated. So this connection is a bit tenuous…
Did you know that some subspecies of reindeer make a clicking sound when they walk? The sound comes from the movement of tendons over the bones of the fetlock joint. Eland antelope bulls also make a clicking sound, though this emanates from the carpal joint. The weird thing is that while the clicking of reindeer joints is believed to help the herd stay together (in blizzards, for example, and in the absence of Rudolph’s nose), the clicking of eland joints is now theorised to communicate size and social status to potential competitors.
It’s coming…
Photographer of the Year 2023 is just around the corner! Have you got your entries ready? We’re pleased to announce the details, prizes and rules for your 2023 entries. Read more here!
WATCH: Humans and caracals share the city of Cape Town, South Africa: Find out how these adaptable cats survive in a bustling urban environment (01:22). Click here to watch
The traditional combination of a bush and beach holiday is one of the most popular approaches to any trip to Africa – for good reason. Spending time on safari is undoubtedly the perfect balm for the soul. Yet the early mornings and exciting activities of a frenetic safari are best complemented by a few days of relaxing on one of Africa’s magnificent beaches.
But how to choose the best locations? Have a look at our list of the best bush and beach combos.
Greater Kruger, South Africa & the beaches of Mozambique
The Greater Kruger offers some of the best safari experiences on the continent, especially when it comes to seeing the Big 5. With a couple of spectacular sightings under one’s belt, the renowned beaches and azure waters of Mozambique are just a short flight away, offering the perfect Mozambique beach holiday
Here visitors can recline on white sands (cocktail in hand) or take to the waters to enjoy the cornucopia of oceanic creatures in the Mozambique Channel. The beaches of Ponta Mamoli remain one of Mozambique’s best-kept secrets, despite their proximity to the South African border, while further afield, the islands of the Bazaruto Archipelago National Park protect some of the country’s rare marine mammals.
(Top) The extensive white beaches of the Bazaruto Archipelago; (bottom) Greater Kruger offers some of the best safari experiences on the continent
KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa
KwaZulu-Natal province is one of South Africa’s most diverse regions, home to myriad habitats and animal life.
KZN offers many wild opportunities for experiencing the bushveld and wild animals, from verdant forests and wetlands to rolling savannas and grasslands. A number of wildlife reserves – including Big 5 parks such as Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park – offer a plethora of wildlife experiences. As an added bonus, its long stretch of coastline is lined by characterful and picturesque beaches with stunning year-round weather. The beaches of iSimangaliso Wetland Park are as wild and private as they come, neighbouring Mkuze Game Reserve offers ample wildlife viewing, and just further south, the Dolphin Coast lines the vibrant beach town of Ballito (with magnificent Salt Rock well worth a visit).
Hluhluwe-iMfolozi is a Big-5 game reserve; Isimangaliso Wetland Park offers wild experiences; Thompsons Bay Beach in Ballito; Diving with an oceanic blacktip shark off the coast of KwaZulu-Natal (Aliwal Shoal)
South Luangwa, Zambia & Lake Malawi, Malawi
Not so keen on the salty residues of the ocean? How better to wash away the dust and ease tired feet at the end of an invigorating walking safari in South Luangwa than in the crystalline waters of a freshwater lake surrounded by palm-tree fringed beaches?
An idyllic beach on the shores of Lake Malawi
Walking safaris in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park offer the opportunity to experience enormous herds of elephants and buffaloes, as well as dazzling leopard sightings. After exploring the park, head to the extensive shoreline of Lake Malawi, with its tiny beach villages, resorts and lodges. The lake offers the adventurous tourist a plethora of opportunities to explore the waters – above or below the azure ripples.
The lengthy white beaches of Lake Malawi (pictures 1-2) are lined with tiny beach villages, resorts and lodges; South Luangwa is a vast wilderness and playground for tourists seeking an authentic safari experience (View more pics from Mandeem Mistry at @tinytrunkphotography)
Not for nothing is this one of Tanzania’s most popular attractions, and electrifying wildlife experiences are all but guaranteed. So, why not dive into the embrace of the Indian Ocean, soak up the resplendent marine scenery and take a few days to reflect on a life-changing vacation in the privacy of intimate Mafia Island? And why not tick an experience with endangered sea turtles off your list while you’re at it?
A trip to the Serengeti – an essential destination for any avid safari-goer – is well complemented by a beach break to Mafia Island (Check out @daniellamborn for more images)
The Tanzania tour: quieter safari circuits and an island paradise
Serengeti and Ngorongoro are spectacular for wildlife viewing, but they are not Tanzania’s only safari fare. Some of the less well-known national parks are equally exhilarating, and they are quieter and kinder on the pocket.
Tanzania offers a robust safari circuit: Ruaha National Park; spotting chimps in Mahale National Park; Katavi hosts robust populations of lions; Selous Game Reserve is one of the continent’s most enormous undisturbed ecosystems
The crystalline waters of Zanzibar beautifully round off a Tanzania safari
Take your pick, Kenya
Ah, Kenya, a country blessed with beauty and wildlife in abundance. Safari options abound in this land of plenty. Take in the iconic scenes framed by Mount Kilimanjaro in Amboseli National Park, search for black leopards in Laikipia County, or revere the giant red tuskers of arid Tsavo East and West National Parks. As if these wildlife delights were not enough, the Kenyan coastline is equally bestowed with impressive holiday destinations, from lively Watamu and Malindi to the more peaceful and reserved Diani and Lamu.
Kenya has much to offer the visitor seeking a diverse array of experiences, including: the majestic elephants of Amboseli; the sandy white stretches of Diani Beach; the otherworldly coastlines of Malindi; the dust-stained wildlife of Tsavo; epic sightings of Laikipia; and the tropical paradise of Watamu
Maasai Mara, Kenya & Seychelles
No visit to Kenya is complete without a stop to appreciate the rolling vistas of the celebrated Maasai Mara at least once. Pack in over a million wildebeest and zebras trundling their way through during the Great Migration, and the scene is set for unforgettable travel experiences. And afterwards, why not travel a little further afield to the glorious islands of the breathtaking tropical paradise of Seychelles?
Combine the romance of the Seychelles (and peaceful Mahé Island as pictured) with the wide plains and epic wildlife sightings of the Maasai Mara
Keep it in the family
Travelling to Africa is an absolute privilege, and many industry and hospitality professionals are dedicated to ensuring that their guests get the most out of the experience. With that in mind, some have opted to run lodges for both bush and beach locations, ensuring high standards for both.
Combine a visit to Thonga Beach Lodge in iSimangaliso Wetland Park with a stay at Rhino Ridge Safari Lodge in Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park
One example is the Isibindi Africa Lodges, including Thonga Beach Lodge on the azure shores of iSimangaliso Wetland Park and Rhino Ridge Safari Lodge deep in the heart of Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park. Alternatively, check out Kambaku Safari Lodge in Timbavati Private Nature Reserve in the Greater Kruger and Kambaku at Sea on the Garden Route of the Eastern Cape coastline.
Visit both Kambaku at Sea and Kambaku Safari Lodge to split your time between the Garden Route and Timbavati
Tintswalo Atlantic, and Tintswalo’s lodges in Manyeleti Game Reserve offer the classic combo between Cape Town and Greater Kruger
It is said that the average person spends around a third of their life working so making the most of holiday time is essential! What are your favourite bush and beach combinations? Share them with us and others by downloading our app and commenting below.
Want to head out on a bush-beach combo safari? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team, scroll down to after this story.
The world is changing – faster than it ever has before. As wealthier countries consume more and Sub-Saharan Africa experiences population growth, what will it take to protect the remaining biodiversity? A new review by several pre-eminent conservation scientists examines future challenges and explains what steps will be necessary to avoid a catastrophic loss of wild habitats and species in Africa.
The authors begin by emphasising the unique importance of sub-Saharan Africa (SSA) in terms of diversity levels and the remaining abundance of large mammals. At present, the continent is home to 25% of the world’s mammal species, 20% of its bird species and “significant reptile and amphibian diversity”. Over 4.3 million km2 is covered by a network of protected areas that conserve landscapes and wildlife of immense value to the local tourism industry and humanity in general. The extensive remaining habitats provide a source of natural capital supporting millions of people, supply vital ecosystem services (carbon sequestering, watersheds and so on) and encompass significant cultural and heritage value.
Yet these remaining landscapes face grave threats from burgeoning human populations, associated agricultural expansion, and increasing demand (both local and global) for resources.
Historical trends have shown that populations undergo what is referred to as “demographic transition”, marked by sharp declines in mortality and fertility rates, resulting in a total shift in demographics. SSA’s transition to lower fertility rates is occurring later and slower than most other continents, and overall childbearing rates are higher. While impossible to predict with any degree of certainty, populations are expected to reach four billion by the end of the twenty-first century. While South Asia, India and China accounted for the most significant population growth during the latter 20th and early 21st centuries, SSA is expected to assume this role during the coming decades.
While much of their review is focused on the human population growth in SSA, the writers also highlight the concurrent impact of consumption rates of high-income countries, which are key drivers of biodiversity loss. This is exacerbated by the geographic separation of consumers and the environmental cost of their consumption. Twenty countries are responsible for 70% of global resource consumption and 74% of the planet’s ecological degradation. In addition, the effects of climate change are expected to place further pressure on socio-economic stability in many SSA countries and increase stress on beleaguered habitats and species.
The writers describe the challenges related to population growth and resource use in detail. However, the upshot is that already-threatened natural areas in SSA are going to experience a period of intense anthropogenic pressure.
The journey to a Green Anthropocene
The Anthropocene is the period when human activities have impacted the environment to constitute a distinct geological epoch. During this time, humans have triggered (and continue to trigger) accelerated environmental degradation, causing the sixth mass extinction in Earth’s history. Yet the authors envisage a scenario several decades in the future that they describe as the “Green Anthropocene”. Here, “human influence remains pervasive but where people prioritise nature conservation and adopt adequate mechanisms to avoid consistent loss of biodiversity, thus achieving coexistence and improved prospects for ecological restoration”. Consequently, the biodiversity that survives the bottleneck of anthropogenic pressure to reach the Green Anthropocene would be expected to have improved conservation prospects. Local and global policy decisions adopted over the next few decades will determine what remains at that point.
The steps necessary to conserve a reasonable portion of SSA’s biodiversity are multifaceted, complex at every level, and described in detail in the review. For a start, population growth is inevitable, but encouraging the achievement of demographic transition could act as a partial brake, offering the opportunity for economic growth, better land-use planning, and meaningful environmental regulation. Universal education will be important in this process, but female empowerment and emancipation will be essential, along with the promotion of family planning and access to contraception.
Land clearing for agricultural use already presents the greatest threat to remaining wildlife species through habitat loss and fragmentation. Viable populations of large mammals need expansive land areas and conserving those remaining already entails considerable challenges. Finding ways of feeding increasing numbers of people without compromising what remains will be essential in the coming decades. Good farming practices with optimum yields should help to ensure that smaller areas are required to supply maximum numbers.
An agricultural landscape in Malawi
The proposed solutions include pursuing global and local sustainability and regulating the exploitation of natural resources by foreign actors. The authors encourage a focus on renewable energy, ecosystem services and tourism, and the pursuit of growth by developing a green economy. The empowerment of communities as stakeholders and decision-makers will be critical to this process, as will encouraging the presence of wildlife as a use for land outside of existing protected areas. Strengthening conservation efforts will require a significant elevation in funding and a focus on creating new protected areas (while still possible) and improving the management of existing ones.
The authors acknowledge that, realistically, some form of “conservation triage” will be needed with expanding human populations. They urge that great care will be necessary to minimise losses and retain critical assets. Ultimately, reintroductions and rewilding will probably be necessary to restore species diversity.
The review warns that “business as usual” will result in the extirpation and extinction of much of SSA’s biodiversity as anthropogenic pressures worsen. The authors call on conservationists to throw their weight behind the empowerment of women, their families, and societies. Further research priorities include the need to understand the drivers behind the relatively large desired family size in SSA; the relationship between human population densities and conservation outcomes; the mitigation of anthropogenic pressures on nature; and to guide the commodification of ecosystem serves to enable benefits to accrue to local stakeholders.
Though couched in formal terms, the urgency and concern of the 15 authors are evident throughout the review. Existing threats to sub-Saharan Africa’s wildlife and natural areas have precipitated significant species and habitat losses. With pressures inevitably set to worsen, time is running out to enact the necessary changes to shepherd the region’s wildlife safely through.
A young mountain gorilla reaches out to the camera on a gorilla trek in Virunga National Park, DRC. Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant.
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
Remarkable Virunga + COP19 win or fail?
I promised a summary of the flood of emails in response to my question two weeks ago about whether restricting low-season safari specials to locals is acceptable. So this is what you had to say:
1. Is the practice of offering low-season specials to locals acceptable? Yes – all but a few felt comfortable that this practice increases awareness and improves buy-in by local people of conservation measures.
BUT
2. Foreigners should be offered better low-season discounts than the ‘pay-3-get-4’ packages with caveats and restrictive conditions that are usually available. There was an acceptance that these offers would be priced less favourably than those offered to locals.
AND
3. Most foreigners don’t view themselves as wealthy and consider African safaris expensive, even ‘over-priced’. Safaris are unfortunately often seen as a once-in-a-lifetime experience to save up for and unlikely to be repeated. Most foreign respondents repeated the request for mid-range price options.
I am not surprised at the high level of awareness and big-picture thinking that stemmed from this exercise – you guys rock – but it’s always good to be reminded of how awesome this tribe is.
You have been heard – watch this space …
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
Your next out-of-this-world safari is just around the corner…
Maasai Mara migration season safari – 7 days – from US$ 4,190
Experience the Great Wildebeest Migration in Kenya with this carefully crafted itinerary. Stay at Sentinel Mara Camp, perched on the high banks of the Mara River in a cool riverine forest, and explore Musiara Marsh and Paradise Plains – popular for their excellent cat sightings.
Africa’s ultimate primate safari – 8 days – from US$ 4,905
Head out on the ultimate wildlife bucket-list pilgrimage and come face to face with incredible mountain and Grauer’s lowland gorillas, chimpanzees, and golden and pied colobus monkeys. You’ll trek through the forests of Mgahinga National Park, Volcanoes National Park and Nyungwe Forest, and experience Kahuzi Biega National Park. Let us tailor dates and prices to suit your needs.
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Africa’s conservationists and politicians recently wrapped up the 19th Conference of the Parties (CITES CoP19). Our first story takes a deeper look into the future of African wildlife and ecosystems, delving into the debates and most important decisions made on African species at CoP19. Was the conference an overall win for wildlife, or a fail? Read more below.
In our second story we explore the beating heart of Africa: Virunga National Park. This remarkable park is known for hosting a third of the world’s mountain gorillas. Trekking through its rain forests to discover epic primates, and witnessing its fiery magma lava lakes bubble, is a dream of many a traveller. Read more about this magical land of unparalleled biodiversity, and start planning your Virunga adventure.
Not long ago, I saw a woman standing with a bundle of blankets in her arms, looking for all the world like a new mother. Then she flicked back a corner of the blanket and revealed the sleeping face of her pet white tiger cub. I had to walk away before I exploded.
Did you know that the Big Cat Safety Act was recently passed in the United States Senate? It will make its way to President Biden’s desk and become law. People will be prohibited from keeping big cats as pets, and public contact with these animals will be banned.
It is truly a piece of legislation to be celebrated, but I wish the rest of the world – especially South Africa – would catch on faster. People should not be able to wander around with tiny tiger cubs. Indeed, I firmly and unapologetically believe that no wild animal, be it a big cat, otter or chimpanzee, should be kept as a pet.
WATCH: Wish you were here? Check out this serene moment spent savouring the abundant wildlife to be found on safari. AG can take you there – contact us to start the discussion (00:39). Click here to watch
The 19th Conference of the Parties (CITES CoP19) drew to a close on 26 November 2022, after two weeks of intense policy debates. Some have lauded the results as an “overall win for wildlife”, while others decry the intrinsic “neo-colonialism” of CITES regulations. Throughout the conference, debates continued long into the night over an agenda which included 52 proposals to introduce, strengthen or relax trade restrictions for various plant and animal species. The following summarises the most important decisions relating to African wildlife and ecosystems.
At a glance
Eswatini’s (formerly Swaziland) proposal to remove all restrictions on the trade in rhino horn from the country’s rhinos – rejected
Namibia’s proposal to include its white rhino population on Appendix II – accepted only for the trade in live animals for in-situ conservation purposes
Zimbabwe’s proposal to remove several restrictions on the trade in ivory stocks – rejected
Zimbabwe’s proposal to remove restrictions on the trade in elephant leather goods – rejected
Burkino Faso’s proposal to transfer southern Africa’s elephant population from Appendix II to Appendix I – rejected
A moratorium has been imposed on live elephant trade until the next Conference of the Parties in three years
Some 140 threatened tropical timber species will be listed on Appendix II, some with delayed effect. In terms of African species, the protection afforded to African padauk (Pterocarpus soyauxii), pod mahoganies (Afzelia quanzensis) and African mahoganies (Khaya sp.) will take effect in three months.
Pangolins are already subject to the highest trade restrictions available under CITES. Still, all state parties were encouraged to “take all necessary legislative, regulatory and enforcement measures to close their domestic markets for commercial trade”.
Requiem sharks, hammerhead sharks, freshwater stingrays (which together account for approximately 95% of the global fin trade), and guitarfish will be listed on Appendix II
In detail
Rhinos
eSwatini’s proposal to remove all restrictions from the Appendix II listing to enable trade in rhino horn was resoundingly rejected, with 85 votes (126 total) against it. Japan, Botswana, Tanzania, Lesotho and Mozambique supported the proposal, while South Africa abstained from the vote.
Namibia’s proposal to downlist its white rhinos to Appendix II was accepted, albeit with considerable modification from the original proposal. Opposition from the European Union (EU), Uganda and the Central African Republic saw the removal of all references to the trade in horn trophies from legal hunts. Namibia accepted the amendments, and the final result allows for the trade of live animals only for in-situ conservation purposes. Any movement is also limited to the species’ natural and historical range in Africa. The proposal was opposed by Senegal, Kenya, Benin, Niger and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) but supported by Zimbabwe, Botswana, South Africa and China.
Elephants
Zimbabwe’s attempt to remove restrictions on the trade in ivory stocks was robustly rejected, with several West African countries, Kenya, Ethiopia, the EU and the UK arguing that it would effectively reopen the international ivory trade. The DRC, eSwatini, Zambia, Tanzania, Namibia, Botswana and Lesotho supported the amendments. Interestingly, India – once a staunch opponent of the ivory trade – abstained from this vote. Zimbabwe’s second proposal to lift restrictions on the trade in elephant leather for commercial and non-commercial was also rejected despite receiving 53 supporting votes, as the necessary two-thirds majority was not achieved. Their proposal was supported by the DRC, Botswana, Zambia, Namibia and South Africa and opposed by Senegal, Togo, Gabon, Mali and the Republic of the Congo.
Burkino Faso, Equatorial Guinea, Mali and Senegal presented a joint proposal to transfer southern African elephant populations (those in Botswana, Namibia, South Africa and Zimbabwe) from Appendix II to Appendix I. Benin, Togo, Kenya, Niger, Senegal, Nigeria and Burundi supported their argument. This was opposed by South Africa, Botswana, Namibia, and Zimbabwe, with the EU, Tanzania, Rwanda, Zambia, Uganda, Malawi and Japan adding their support. The proposal was rejected with 59 opposing votes.
The contentious issue of the trade of live elephants to areas outside their natural range (particularly from Zimbabwe and Namibia, which both have active markets) resulted in a temporary moratorium on live elephant exports. The elephant range states are expected to deliberate a legal framework for trade by the next Conference of the Parties in three years.
Hippopotamus
Benin and nine other countries presented a proposal to transfer Africa’s common hippopotamus from Appendix II to Appendix I, effectively banning the trade in hippo parts. Zambia, eSwatini, South Africa, Zimbabwe and Mozambique argued against the proposal, suggesting that it was not based on scientific data and that trade in hippo parts does not threaten their hippo populations. The EU’s suggestion to amend the proposal to set a quota for various countries was accepted. Regardless, the entire proposal was ultimately rejected, splitting the vote 56 for and 56 against (and without reaching a two-thirds majority).
Final thoughts
The mandate of the CITES treaty is enormous, devoted to regulating the trade of not just iconic mammal species but thousands of plant, amphibian, reptile and fish species. It is inevitable that the various outcomes of a Conference of the Parties are going to be met with condemnation or celebration, depending on the context. A complete full summary of the votes for each proposal can be found in the Summary Records of CITES CoP19. It is interesting to note that the African countries presented a far from united front at the conference. Indeed, the division between SADC countries (South Africa, Botswana, Namibia, and Zimbabwe in particular) and the rest of the countries appears more pronounced than ever.
There is a place in the heart of Africa where glacier-tipped mountains tumble down into steamy rain forests, where fiery lava lakes bubble, and savannas and grasslands stretch as far as the eye can see. It is an extraordinary park steeped in a history of tragedy and heroism: primordial and viscerally wild. A land of unparalleled biodiversity and exceptional beauty, bursting with life of every form. It is Virunga National Park in DRC, and it is remarkable.
Virunga National Park
The oldest national park in Africa, Virunga National Park covers nearly 8,000km2 (800,000 hectares) – an area roughly three times the size of Luxembourg. It conserves a diversity of habitats that surpasses any other park on the continent and is tucked along the eastern boundary of the Democratic Republic of Congo, protecting the eastward extremity of the Congo Basin. Virunga is part of the Albertine Rift (the western branch of the East African Rift) and stretches from the snow-covered peaks of the Rwenzori Mountains in the north to the Virunga Massif in the south.
The Rwenzori Mountains; rain forest on the slopes of the Virunga Mountains; a hippo wallows in the marshes of Lake Edward; the famous mountain gorillas of Virunga. You can follow Christy Bennie on Instagram
The 300km-long park is divided into three primary sectors: northern, central, and southern, which together combine to protect an astonishing array of landscapes from alpine vegetation and montane forests to lava plains and wetlands. The most visited section is the southern sector, dominated by dense montane forests home to a vital population of Africa’s remaining mountain gorillas. While many of the gorillas sensibly prefer to reside on the slopes of the dormant Mikeno volcano, the southern section is also the location of the two active volcanoes in the park – Mount Nyiragongo and Nyamuragira. Here, Virunga reaches Lake Kivu and borders Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda and Mgahinga National Park in Uganda. Together, these three protected areas form the core of the Greater Virunga Ecosystem. Further south is Kahuzi-Biega National Park – home to Grauer’s gorilla, the largest gorilla species.
The central sector is centred around the banks of Lake Edward. It includes the Rwindi plains and the Ishasha River valley, and is contiguous with Uganda’s Queen Elizabeth National Park to the east. This savannah-like section offers the best chance to spot the more “traditional” safari animals, including elephant, lion, and buffalo. The northern sector is characterised by the dramatic Rwenzori Mountains, with sharp peaks and plunging valleys that descend to the Semuliki River valley. This picturesque part of the park adjoins the Rwenzori Mountains and Semuliki National Parks in neighbouring Uganda.
Vegetation in the Rwenzori Mountains; plant life on the slopes of Mt Bisoke and Mt Karisimbi; a baby mountain gorilla photographed in the national park; giant groundsels in the rain forest on the slope of Mt Karisimbi; dense vegetation growing along the slopes of the Virunga Mountains
The magic of Virunga
Virunga is a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its spectacular biodiversity, with over 2,000 plant species, 706 bird species, and nearly 200 reptile and amphibian species. The park is also home to a diverse array of fauna and flora, including over 200 mammal species and a third of the world’s remaining mountain gorillas. Even the air is redolent with the scent of rich soil, and intrepid visitors find themselves besieged by butterflies and ebrious with delight at the natural life on show. Throw in nocturnal displays of volcanic ambivalence, and the Virunga experience is far beyond the average escape from the humdrum of city life – it is an exhilarating embrace of everything that makes Africa truly wild.
The natural beauty of Virunga represented by an eastern blue mother-of-pearl butterfly
Gorillas on the mountain
Virunga owes its existence, at least in part, to the presence of the endangered (once critically endangered) mountain gorillas. Today, they are probably the park’s most famous residents. Mountain gorillas (Gorilla beringei beringei) are a subspecies of the critically endangered eastern gorilla, and there are believed to be just over 1,000 remaining. Approximately one-third of the world’s population is found in Virunga National Park (the remainder is divided between Volcanoes, Mgahinga and Bwindi Impenetrable national parks in neighbouring Rwanda and Uganda). Described by the Virunga park authorities as the Congo’s “real treasure” (rather than oil or metals), there are believed to be over 300 of these precious primates within the park. Of these, nine gorilla families have been carefully habituated over the last thirty years. Every family comes with its dynamics, characters and stories, and the rangers have kept track of it all – you can read more about their histories and present breakdown here.
Mountain gorillas making a noise in the forest
Every morning, rangers set out at the crack of dawn to track down and monitor their charges, and by the time guests have stirred and downed their first coffee, many families have already been located. After stringent health protocols (to avoid passing human pathogens to the immunologically naïve gorillas) and a trek through thick vegetation, small groups of visitors are afforded the life-changing opportunity to spend an hour in the company of these gentle giants. As anyone who has ever spent time with gorillas will tell you, it is an experience that defies words and borders on sacred. There is something about the familiarity of their facial expressions, their familial bonds and the calm, contained power that makes gorilla trekking unlike any conventional animal encounter.
The connection between man and gorilla can be further explored at the Senkwekwe Centre, the only mountain gorilla orphanage in the world. Here dedicated keepers have raised the young survivors of anthropogenic cruelty (poaching and snaring), as well as rehabilitating eastern lowland gorillas. The orphanage is named for a silverback killed in a devastating poaching incident in 2007 that claimed the lives of seven members of the Rugendo family. It is headed by André Bauma, a man who has become almost as famous as his gorilla charges. Bauma’s love for his primate “family” endeared him to the audiences of the Oscar-nominated film, Virunga. He even attended the Oscars ceremony in Los Angeles.
The fascinating mountain gorillas of Virunga
The mammals of Virunga
Mountain gorillas aside, Virunga’s great ape collection also includes eastern lowland gorillas (Grauer’s gorillas – Gorilla beringei graueri) and chimpanzees. Park officials are in the process of habituating the chimpanzees, and accompanying the habituation teams is another of the activities on offer in the park. In contrast to the relatively sedate gorilla trekking, chimp habituation more often than not involves an adrenaline-filled race through the forest to keep up with our arboreal relatives. The Grauer’s gorillas consist of a handful of individuals isolated to the inaccessible Mount Tshiabirimu region of the park.
While the apes may be the stars, the supporting cast of around 19 smaller primate species is deserving of a special mention. Chattering troops of flamboyant eastern black-and-white colobus monkeys frequent the lodges while the booming calls of De Brazza’s monkeys echo through the valleys.
There are four recognised subspecies of the African buffalo in Africa and two of these – the Cape and forest – are found in Virunga. Some biologists even believe that a fifth subspecies, called the mountain or Virunga buffalo, should be recognised. In addition to buffalo, the plains support several ungulates, including topi, Ugandan kob, waterbuck, warthog, and red river and giant forest hog. These, in turn, keep the lions of the park suitably satiated. Together with Queen Elizabeth National Park, Virunga is considered by the IUCN to be a “Lion Conservation Unit”. It is also a vital elephant habitat, as evidenced by the unexpected migration of nearly 600 elephants from neighbouring Queen Elizabeth at the end of 2020. Massive pods of hippo lurk around the shallows of Lake Edward and wallow in the various rivers, and bongo antelope have been spotted in the park’s northern reaches.
The park is a crucial habitat for giant and tree pangolin, crested porcupine and even Lord Derby’s scaly-tailed squirrel (a rodent with a very similar design to flying squirrels). However, another creature is arguably Virunga’s (and Africa’s) most peculiar offering. The okapi is the closest known relative to the giraffe and looks very much as though someone crossed a zebra, antelope, and giraffe. Okapis are endangered, and there are probably only a few thousand remaining. While sightings of these animal oddities in Virunga are few and far between, they were spotted in the northern sector before the arrival of the militia.
An eastern lowland gorilla and baby; a black-and-white colobus monkey; a pod of hippos in the shallows of Lake Edward; de Brazza’s monkey can also be seen in the park
The birds of Virunga
As might be expected in a park that encompasses such a large variety of habitats, the birding can be described as extraordinary. However, extraordinary doesn’t even begin to cover it. With a checklist of 706 different species, there are more birds in Virunga than in the entire United States of America. Furthermore, a substantial number of these are Albertine Rift and Congolese endemics. Notable species include the prehistoric-looking shoebills, dashing Rwenzori turacos, mind-blowingly cryptic African green broadbills, and bizarre red-collared mountain babblers whose closest relative forages the slopes of Mt Jupe in Cameroon. There are melodic Kivu ground thrushes, mythical Grauer’s cuckooshrikes and yellow-crested helmetshrikes, mysterious Albertine owlets and ghostly Congo Bay owls, dazzling purple-breasted and Rockefeller sunbirds, raucous white-headed woodhoopoes, dainty Rwenzori batises, data deficient and endangered Itombwe nightjars, Prigogine’s greenbuls, Kungwe apalises, Grauer’s swamp warbler and golden-naped weavers. And last, but not least, the heart-stopping, utterly gorgeous and mysterious Shelley’s Crimsonwing, which has never been photographed other than when netted during biodiversity surveys.
Virunga means volcano
The name “Virunga” comes from the Kinyarwanda word “ibirunga”, which means “volcanoes”. The Virunga Mountains that mark the southern sector of the park consist of eight major volcanoes, most of which are dormant. The two active volcanoes in the range – Mount Nyiragongo and Mount Nyamuragira – are in Virunga National Park, and both reach heights of over 3,000 metres. Visitors who brave the climb to the summit of Mt. Nyiragongo are rewarded with a view of the world’s largest lava lake as it churns and bubbles. This sight is at its most impressive at night, so most opt to camp on the rim of the crater.
However, this is no idle volcano. Nyiragongo has erupted over thirty times since the end of the 19th century. The most recent eruption occurred in 2021 and had catastrophic consequences for the human residents of the city of Goma. Fortunately, stalwart sightseers can rest assured that the volcano’s moods are carefully monitored lest it decides to let loose its fury of molten lava.
Mist envelopes the Virunga Mountains; rain forest along the slopes of Mt Karisimbi; a young mountain gorilla; a once-in-a-lifetime experience peering into the raging lava lake of Mt Nyiragongo; a view over the Virunga mountains; the picturesque Virunga National Park landscape
War and peace
Despite the global call for protected areas to cover 30% of the earth by 2030, there are still many parks and reserves where the future hangs very much in the balance. Virunga National Park is one such park, still tumbling in the currents of war, political instability, poverty, and disease. Though the full history of the park (and the DRC) is beyond the scope of this celebration of Virunga, no coverage would be complete without mention of both the challenges and efforts involved in keeping it safe.
For decades, the people of the DRC have struggled through war and instability that has killed millions of people. As is inevitable, this tableau of human suffering has spilt over into the conservation of the country’s natural resources, and Virunga has found itself in the middle of countless conflicts. Though valiant efforts were made to protect the park, the end of the 20th century saw much of the park’s wildlife massacred almost to the point of extinction. In 2007, the mass killing of the Rugendo family of gorillas catapulted the park’s plight onto the world stage, and the global attention spurned increased funding and conservation measures. The 2008 partnership between the Congolese National Parks Authority (ICCN) and the Virunga Foundation marked a turning point in the park’s history.
The past 14 years have been far from plain sailing, and the park has suffered its fair share of losses, particularly of the brave rangers dedicated to protecting the park. Oil exploration by an English company only added to threats facing the already beleaguered park. However, taking one taxing step at a time has paid off. The mountain gorillas have increased from fewer than 70 to over 300 in ten years and hippos from 300 to over 2,000, while elephant and lion sightings are now a fairly regular occurrence. Tourism facilities were developed and improved, and a trickle of intrepid visitors gradually turned into a steady stream of people looking to experience one of Africa’s most incredible destinations. (For more on the conservation and social developments by the Virunga Alliance, have a look at their website.)
Explore & Stay
Though there are innumerable reasons to want to visit Virunga National Park, the potential insecurity in the region is of concern to many prospective visitors. Naturally, the park authorities are aware of this, and they take the safety of their guests extremely seriously. The park is periodically closed when they feel that the situation on the ground is such that security cannot be guaranteed. This may also be done to protect the highly susceptible apes from human diseases like Covid-19. The best way to establish the state of affairs and what activities are on offer is to chat to the Africa Geographic travel team, who are in constant communication with Virunga’s park authorities and regularly send intrepid travelers to the area when it is safe to do so.
There are a couple of different lodges scattered throughout the park, and the choice of activity (gorilla treks, Lava treks up Nyiragongo, game drives and so on) will determine the best place to stay. Most visitors opt to rotate through the different options. Ultra-luxury is not the order of the day in Virunga, but there are high-end accommodation options, and all the camps are comfortable. Each offers a different view of the lush vegetation and exquisite vistas. Tourism remains a cornerstone of the park’s conservation efforts, and to that end, all of the lodges within the park are non-profit, with all proceeds fed back into keeping the park protected.
Though Virunga is accessible year-round (if open to visitors), the best time to visit is during the drier months, from June until September or December until February. However, wet seasons are a good option for those with a pair of solid, waterproof boots looking to take advantage of the low-season discounts. Most visitors access the park via Rwanda and pass through the border at Goma.
Valiant Virunga
Virunga is a biodiversity spectacle but is also a testament to the courage of those that have fought and often given their lives in its defence. In this near-forgotten corner of Africa, adventurers, soul-seekers, and naturalists will find an electrifying celebration of life at its most raw – a kaleidoscope of nature’s wonders and a living history of human and wild resilience.
Want to go on a safari to Virunga? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team, scroll down to after this story.
Learn more about Dodo Bahati, a project supporting anti-poaching efforts in Virunga National Park.
Learn more about the Okapi Conservation Project, a project working to protect these unique mammals in the DRC, as well as the forests and creatures of Okapi Wildlife Reserve.
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
Kruger’s declining rhinos + malaria-free safaris
I recently watched a live online trophy-hunting debate that was so boring, so devoid of intellectual fact-based to-and-fro that I wondered about the point. Two respected people at opposite ends of the spectrum said their say and answered a few canned questions. Then the show ended. Have we progressed to the point where fear of the easily-offended has cancelled the very essence of debate as a tool for learning?
Meanwhile, here at my home on the Greater Kruger border, the early rains have been promising but not spectacular. Dung beetles are out and about rolling balls of treasured poo, cuckoos are frantically calling, and scorpions are emerging from their burrows. And a second batch of dark-capped bulbuls has fledged successfully from a nest inside our front door porch. Life is good.
Finally, I received a veritable avalanche of emails responding to the question I posed last week about whether restricting low-season safari specials to locals is fair – thanks for that :-). The feedback was immensely valuable for teamAG, and I will soon write a summary of your responses. Watch out for it on our website, app and in next week’s newsletter.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
We have two transcendental safaris on offer that will immerse you in the wonders of the African bushveld – for the ultimate escape from the every-day mundane.
Southern Africa mega safari – 19 days
Be prepared to be swept off your feet with wall-to-wall wildlife action with this iconic southern African safari. You’ll visit Greater Kruger, Cape Town and the winelands in South Africa; Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park in Botswana; and Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe – for an epic, once-in-a-lifetime adventure.
Desert & delta – 11 days
This iconic safari is about water – or the lack thereof. Depending on which package you select, this safari ranges from the majestic Victoria Falls to the watery wilderness of the Okavango Delta, from the predator-rich northern Botswana floodplains, to the remote Central Kalahari and desolate salt pans.
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Every year we dig deep to find out how many rhinos remain in Kruger National Park – which hosts the world’s largest wild rhino population. And our findings this year again reveal more bad news: despite increased security and back-breaking work by the boots on the ground, Kruger’s rhino populations continue to decline at an alarming rate. Read more about the latest rhino stats in our first story below.
Are you planning your next safari but you’re concerned about the risk of malaria infection? Never fear! There are plenty of malaria-free destinations that offer the traditional luxury safari experience. Plus, many of these options offer sightings of the Big 5. We’ve put together a list of our favourite malaria-free safari spots in our second story.
Every year as the excitement of the festive season reaches fever pitch, South Africans are treated to the ethereal sight of our annual butterfly migration. Countless numbers of brown-veined white butterflies (Belenois aurota) fill the skies over fields and between high-rise buildings, delicately flapping their way towards Mozambique. For “influencers”, it is an Instagram goldmine, and for the rest of us, a joyous celebration of a timeless natural marvel.
But did you know that this year, the butterflies arrived in Johannesburg earlier than ever recorded? What makes the threat of climate change so insidious is that many of the changes are subtle, practically invisible – except to those paying attention. Is this early arrival attributable to climate changeor just seasonal variation? That isn’t an easy question to answer but phenologists worldwide are tracking these biological milestones with considerable concern. Because it’s not just the butterflies…
WATCH: AG project partner Wildlife ACT recently worked with WWF South Africa, Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife and others to translocate four orphaned black rhinos into their new home at Babanango Game Reserve. Check out this unique footage of the intricate work involved in translocating and protecting rhinos (04:21). Click here to watch
Travelling to most African countries carries some risk of malaria infection – something that should always be taken into consideration when visiting. Though a few simple precautions can mitigate the risk of contracting malaria, there are those who, for various reasons, prefer not to take the chance at all. Fortunately, South Africa offers a plethora of malaria-free destinations – without sacrificing the luxury safari experience. Plus, many of these destinations offer sightings of the Big 5 – Africa’s must-see checklist including elephant, lion, leopard, buffalo, and rhino. Have a look at our list of favourite malaria-free safari destinations:
Pilanesberg National Park
Situated at the centre of an ancient caldera of a long-extinct volcano, the Pilanesberg National Park is visually striking and bursting with life around every corner. The reserve is found in the transition zone between the Kalahari and Lowveld, making it an ecologically rich area offering thrilling wildlife viewing in picturesque surrounds.
A young male surveys his promised kingdom at the foot of the Pilanesberg mountain range
The park offers a wide variety of accommodation options, from camping and budget accommodation to luxury lodges. At 550km² in size, there is ample terrain to be explored and a diverse road network (of more than 200km) which can be explored.
A diverse range of animal species native to southern Africa can be found here, including the Big 5 and more than 360 species of birds. The reserve is just two hours drive from Johannesburg and is perfect for intrepid explorers wanting a self-drive experience.
Pilanesberg offers the best of many worlds – luxury and budget accommodation, guided game drives or self-drive options, and a high concentration of wildlife
Madikwe Game Reserve
Nestled against the border of Botswana on the fringes of the Kalahari, the magnificent Madikwe Game Reserve is one of South Africa’s top safari destinations – malaria-free or otherwise. The exclusive Big-5 reserve teems with iconic and unusual wildlife, offering the opportunity for spectacular animal encounters and striking photography. As Madikwe is not open to day visitors, safari experiences are very personal – whether from the back of a vehicle or the back of a horse.
There is a range of camps and lodges to choose from, from high-end luxury to family or budget-friendly options, and, importantly, community-owned and run lodges that see profits going directly to community members.
Elephants gather around the waterhole at sunset
The malaria-free aspect of the reserve makes it an ideal attraction for families travelling with young children. It is also easily accessible from Johannesburg. Madikwe’s game viewing is at its best during the winter months – the dry season – as the animal life congregates near available water (often at lodges).
From decadent safaris to down-to-earth, family-oriented comfort, the Madikwe experience is a classic, guaranteed to enthral.
Madikwe offers Big-5 viewing on the fringes of the Kalahari
The Waterberg
The Waterberg region in northern South Africa is considered one of the country’s best-kept safari secrets. It is a land of rugged beauty, with imposing rock formations and mountainous massifs shaped by aeons of water erosion. Its bushveld, savannah and riparian habitats are home to abundant wildlife. The area is known for its archaeological findings dating back to the Stone Age. With its diverse mix of private lodges and budget accommodation, the Waterberg is an escape for nature lovers, history buffs and adventurers alike.
Marakele National Park in the heart of the Waterberg Mountains hosts the Big-5, far from the crowds
The growing tourism industry supports Marakele National Park and several private Big 5 reserves, such as Welgevonden Game Reserve. Marakele is located in the transitional zone between the dry western and moister eastern regions of South Africa, allowing for a remarkable variety of wildlife and biodiversity – including fynbos growing in the mountainous areas of the park. A moderate and pleasant climate ensures an enjoyable stay, with summer rainfall keeping the worst heat at bay. Rare yellowwood and striking cedar trees, grand mountains, and Cape vultures soaring through the skies make Marakele a bush experience unlike any other.
A buffalo on the Ant Collection’s private reserve near Vaalwater, Waterberg. See more images from @andrewyatesphotography here
Addo Elephant National Park
As the name suggests, Addo Elephant National Park is an elephant lover’s nirvana. As part of the national park falls along the coast, it is also the only place in Africa where visitors can encounter the ‘Big 7’, which includes the typical Big 5 assortment plus dolphins and whales.
Addo covers five of the country’s eight vegetation zones, so the biodiversity on display is staggering, accompanied by sweeping vistas and accommodation options to suit most budgets.
Addo covers five of the South Africa’s vegetation zones, and is the only place in Africa where visitors can see the ‘Big 7’ – the ‘Big 5’ plus dolphins and whales
The private reserves of the Cape
The southern and Eastern Cape are peppered with private game reserves – many of these featuring the Big 5 – where guests are granted a more exclusive experience than a national park. The Cape offers magnificent mountains, famous coastlines, and spectacular seaside scenery (also wine for the oenophiles), with a mosaic of fascinating habitats and protected spaces inland offering unique wildlife viewing.
Here visitors can experience all the best aspects of safari against the backdrop of some of South Africa’s most breathtaking, lush scenery. As a bonus, the many delights of Cape Town – from Table Mountain to penguins – are just a stone’s throw away (relatively speaking)!
Samara Karoo Reserve is one of the Cape’s exclusive and fascinating private reserves
Tswalu Kalahari Reserve
Words fail to do justice to the sense of inner peace that descends when looking out across the vast vistas of the green Kalahari. Beneath the everyday sounds of chirruping geckos and melodious bird songs, the depth of the silence is a balm for the world-weary soul. Though no elephants are wandering Tswalu Kalahari Reserve, other members of the Big 5, wild dog (painted wolf) and cheetah are all present. However, the reserve is most famous for its assortment of rare and unusual wildlife offerings like habituated meerkats, roan and sable antelope, aardvark, pangolin, brown hyena and aardwolf.
Tswalu, the gem of the Kalahari, is known for rare and unusual wildlife offerings
A note on “malaria-free”: the above list includes South African destinations only, as much of the country is officially considered malaria-free. While there are several regions within Southern Africa where the risk of transmission during the dry season is negligible, they are still considered by the World Health Organisation to be malaria-risk areas.
Want to go on a malaria-free safari? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team, scroll down to after this story.
The latest stats from SANParks reveal an ongoing decline in rhino numbers
There are now an estimated 2,250 white rhinos remaining in Kruger – a 79% reduction since 2011. The estimated black rhino population now stands at 208 – a 50% reduction since 2013.
The SANParks Annual Report 2021/2022 confirms that rhino populations in the Kruger National Park have continued to decline, with a loss of 14.7% of white rhinos over the reporting period. However, black rhino populations were estimated to have increased by 2.9%.
Unlike previous Annual Reports, the 2021/2022 Report does not provide population estimates for either white or black rhinos within the park. However, Dr Sam Ferreira, Large Mammal Ecologist for SANParks and the Scientific Officer for the African Rhino Specialist Group, has confirmed the 2021 estimates for Africa Geographic. There were an estimated 2,250 (between 1,986 and 2,513*) white rhinos in Kruger in September 2021, compared to the 2,607 (between 2,475 and 2,752), counted in September 2020. For black rhinos, the 2021 survey estimated 208 (between 160-255) black rhinos occurring in Kruger, with confidence intervals overlapping the 2020 estimate of 202 (between 172 and 237). Ferreira confirmed that the results of the 2022 census are still being analysed.
*Editorial note: All population estimates are given a margin of error, as population counts over large areas carry inherent uncertainty. When calculating the percentage decline/increase, these margins of error are included in the statistical analysis.
The white rhino population in Kruger National Park continues to decline, while black rhino populations have seen a slight increase
The 2021/2022 Report confirms that 195 rhinos were poached in the Kruger National Park in 2021, a decrease from 247 in the previous year. (The most recent statistics from the Kruger National Park suggest that 82 rhinos were killed in the park in the first six months of 2022.) No rhinos have been lost in other SANParks-operated parks, namely Addo Elephant, Karoo, Mountain Zebra, Mokala, Mapungubwe and Marakele National Parks. These rhino populations have increased by 6.2%, and populations of south-western black rhinos (Diceros bicornis bicornis) outside of the Kruger have exceeded growth performance targets.
The Annual Report indicates that a new Rhino Strategy has been developed, focusing on “achieving thriving, growing rhino populations of a minimum size; and resilient communities across all stakeholders owning, valuing and benefitting from rhinos in a safe environment”. This will include strategic dehorning, range expansion and establishing “insurance populations”. Eight hundred and five rhinos have been dehorned in the Kruger National Park between 2021 and 2022, with a focus on cows and core protection zones. The report also references the establishment of rhino “strongholds” outside of the Kruger National Park to serve as sources for re-introductions in the long term.
However, as increased security and plummeting rhino numbers have made poaching more challenging in Kruger, there has been a concerning shift in focus to KwaZulu-Natal in South Africa, where nearly 200 rhinos have been killed this year alone (mainly in Hluhluwe iMfolozi National Park), and to Namibia and Botswana.
Although the reduced poaching statistics are due primarily to there being fewer wild rhinos remaining, there is no question that the back-breaking work of passionate and dedicated SANParks employees is also a factor, and those that have contributed should be lauded for their efforts
Publicly available resources
The statistics on white and black rhinos can be found on pages 28/29 of the 2021/2022 SANParks Annual Report, while the details of conservation efforts present and future are on pages 52/53.
Silhouetted fishermen in a mokoro at sunset. Chobe, Botswana Photographer of the Year 2020 entrant
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
Trek with tuskers + empowering women + we’re hiring
So I have a question
But first, this: Thanks to every one of you for being in our tribe; it’s an honour to share Africa’s awesomeness with you. And a very special note of thanks to those who travelled with us this year. As a social enterprise focusing on doing good for Africa’s wild spaces and her people, we rely entirely on revenue generated from safaris to pay our not-insignificant costs. Remember to start planning your 2023 safari now. After more than 30 years in the safari business, we know what, where and when – but space at Africa’s greatest prime season experiences is often limited as increasing numbers of people yearn to reconnect. Safari njema, good people.
Now, to my question: Is it ok to offer safari discounts to local people?
As you know, we are currently offering huge discounts (up to 75% off) at Botswana’s top lodges over the next few months – but only for SADC residents.
Look, let’s not mince words here; going on safari is a leisure option only affordable to a small minority of humankind. What we are talking about is a strategy by lodge owners to widen the net slightly to allow relatively well-heeled locals a brief glimpse into an otherwise unattainable paradise and to earn at least some revenue to cover costs over an otherwise very slow seasonal period for tourism – staff salaries and anti-poaching being amongst the highest overheads.
Please let me know your considered opinion. Comment below if you are reading this on our app; otherwise, email me to share your thoughts.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
Kenya’s Tsavo National Park is the best place to see tuskers – the last remaining giant elephants still roaming our world. But did you know you can experience this national park on foot, following in the tracks of Tsavo’s giants? Norman Owen-Smith set out on the 100-mile (160km) Great Walk along the Tsavo River with AG. Read about his journey in our first story.
Our second story is a powerful piece on the realities facing women living in Africa’s rural and conservation areas. These women are particularly vulnerable to crises, due to low job security and discrimination. In a post-pandemic landscape, empowering women in the tourism sector is helping communities recover, contributing to economic empowerment. Read more below.
Experts estimate that 30-50% of the global human population has been exposed to a microscopic parasite called Toxoplasma gondii. This protozoan can only complete its sexual lifecycle in felid hosts, yet infection of other hosts precipitates a wide range of aberrant behaviours. Behaviours that seem to serve the parasite well.
For example, infected hyena cubs are more likely to be killed by lions. Similarly, exposed chimpanzees have an increased risk of encounters with big cats and rats are attracted to cat urine. Now, did you know that scientists have just discovered that Toxoplasma also appears to impact wild wolf behaviour? In this case, it doesn’t seem to make them more likely to “sacrifice” themselves to the nearest hungry cat. Instead, infection with the protozoan makes them 46 times more likely to become a pack leader – potentially affecting the dynamics of an entire pack.
And its behavioural effects on humans? Hotly debated, but it is simultaneously terrifying and fascinating to wonder at the potential influence of this all-but-invisible force of nature.
We’re hiring!
Attention marketing fundis! AG is looking for a Marketing Manager to join our team. If you’re a hands-on digital marker with a passion for travel and conservation, and want to make a real difference in Africa, this is for you. Check out the full job specs here…
Women in rural Africa are vulnerable to crises. Empowering women in tourism aids economic recovery in a post-Covid landscape
In rural conservation landscapes in many African countries, women play prominent roles in developing resilient communities. Although they are often at the very centre of the household, the heart of local communities, and the frontlines of nature stewardship, women in Africa are also particularly affected during crises, as their access to income is less secure. They also shoulder the burdens of daily life.
Surviving the pandemic
For Zambian wildlife officer turned conservation research technician Anety Milimo, COVID-19 came like a thief in the night. She knew it was out there, but not that it would take lives, jobs, and resources from her community. As a mother, she knows the demands of being a provider and caregiver. “And I’ll be frank with you, women were affected most,” says Anety.
“Having more women as front liners in tourism and conservation, especially in community and conflict situations, will benefit everyone because we are tenacious and diplomatic,” says Anety Milimo
According to the UN Women Policy Brief, COVID-19, and the Care Economy (2021), women shouldered the additional explosion of unpaid care due to discriminatory gender roles and stress on vulnerable health systems. Yet, Anety observed, women were often the first to lose their incomes from jobs deemed ‘non-essential’ when the pandemic struck.
Globally, women lost more than 64 million jobs in 2020 – a 5% loss, compared to a 3.9% loss for men. The impact of this economic crisis means that an additional 47 million women worldwide were expected to fall into extreme poverty, living on less than US$1.90 a day in 2021. According to a recent UN report, Advancing Women’s Economic Empowerment in the Tourism Sector in COVID-19 Response and Recovery, global job loss patterns were amplified in the tourism sector.
In Botswana, various public and private sector initiatives are in place for a gender-responsive recovery to support women in conservation and tourism. Here, rangers Akanyang Moronga, Galetshwajwe Sareqo and Agonneone Botshelo are undergoing nature guide training to add to their skillsets
Working with local partners, WWF’s African Nature-based Tourism Platform has gathered emerging data on the effects of the pandemic on tourism enterprises in 11 African countries, including Zambia. This data is helping identify the hardest-hit communities and enterprises and their most pressing needs. Funded by the Global Environment Facility (GEF), the platform aims to mobilise at least $15 million to benefit the most vulnerable.
The data suggests that amongst those surveyed female staff dropped from 9,235 to 3,696, and men from 22,461 to 10,091. Women entrepreneurs faced losses from the direct provision of goods and services to tourists and reduced demand from tourism supply chains.
Empowering women in tourism
“The work we’re doing on gender equity and inclusion of marginalised communities is crucial to the recovery of the tourism and conservation landscape in Africa,” says WWF’s Nikhil Advani. “Women in Africa have intimate knowledge and close relationships with natural resources, and similar to the impacts of climate change, COVID-19 hit them the hardest. They are powerful land stewards and leaders but vulnerable to shocks and discrimination, which is why working with women is so important for a more resilient future for tourism and conservation.”
In Anety’s adopted hometown of Livingstone, where life revolves around the tourists and the wildlife they come to see, post-pandemic recovery is slow. Women in Africa often work in low-skilled or informal work with less access to social protection.
“During the pandemic, women in the community were desperate. Some people moved into protected areas to get wood or put down snares. Community members broke fences. And because of fewer human activities in the park, elephants started crossing into the communities. There were accidents and people getting trampled. It was a very stressful time because, you know, we are human. We can’t watch our children go hungry, but we lacked the resources to help.”
Her department deliberately engaged with women because of their needs and influence in family settings. “Having more women as front liners in tourism and conservation, especially in community and conflict situations, will benefit everyone because we are tenacious and diplomatic. But they need support because people still look down on women or give men opportunities first,” says Anety.
Women and nature: a symbiotic relationship
While women in Africa working in tourism were disproportionately affected by the COVID-19 pandemic, they are far from passive victims. Anety and others play prominent roles in developing resilient communities in conservation landscapes. There have been public and private sector initiatives for a gender-responsive recovery and to support women in conservation and tourism.
According to WWF’s Africa Region Director Alice Ruhweza, who has more than 20 years’ experience working at the nexus of conservation and development, “There is a reason we use the words ‘mother nature’ – nature personified as a life-giving and nurturing mother. Whether it’s gathering firewood, gardening, or putting food on the table – women have a stake in nature, and it is reflected in the degree to which they care about natural resources. But there are arguments that when we link women and nature, women suffer the same fate when nature is devalued and degraded. This devaluation of both women and nature can be seen in terms such as ‘virgin Earth’, ‘fertile land’, and ‘barren soil’,” says Ruhweza.
“We need to address this by recognising the important symbiotic relationship between women and nature and ensuring women have full rights to use and benefits from natural resources, and that their voices are at the table when decisions about natural resources are made. Mother nature needs her daughters.”
Ranger Galetshwajwe Sareqo studying for her theory tests for a nature guide course
“The women we work with are strong and determined,” says Robyn Flemix, environmental monitoring and ranger coordinator for Great Plains Foundation, the philanthropic arm of the global tourism brand. In February 2022, she started managing a project to recruit and train 50 women rangers in Botswana and Zimbabwe. As rangers and natural resource monitors, they will help detect the early signs of illegal wildlife crime. Most of the new female ranger recruits worked in tourism and lost their jobs during the pandemic. “But they weren’t sitting at home waiting for something to happen. They were making plans to survive. It’s important to see that resilience as well,” says Robyn.
While the women all had skills, they didn’t have the specialist skills a ranger needs, so Great Plains decided to bolster their training program significantly. “We now understand that equipping them with the skills to enter the field needs to be part of this program. They have just completed a month’s Nature Guide Training course with African Guide Academy and did exceptionally well,” she notes.
One of the newly trained women rangers, Galetshwajwe Sareqo from Seronga Village in Botswana lost her job at the end of March 2020, after five years working in a safari company. “I had thought my life was set. From a salary to no salary, it was very difficult for me to purchase food and other basic necessities. I managed to build a poultry house and raised some broilers to sell. Getting this opportunity with Great Plains is a turning point for a better life for me and my family,” she says.
Playing a valued and viable role in taking care of protected areas allows women from communities bordering protected land to speak with authority and confidence and feel valued on the solutions side of conservation. “Equipping these women with the knowledge and the passion for conservation and for these wild spaces to be able to go back to the communities and share that with their children and the communities around them is essential. There is no reason that women should not be given equal opportunities to protect wildlife,” says Robyn. She believes the long-term conservation impact of this project will be powerful; because “female rangers will ultimately enable the type of community buy-in necessary to preserve Africa’s biodiversity.”
In addition, the African Nature-Based Tourism Platform has been running proposal-writing workshops designed to ensure a strong representation of women and community voices. The platform’s workshop approach has been recognised as an excellent example of gender-responsive measures in the GEF-7 portfolio. Their proactive steps included providing gender training to project staff, collecting sex-disaggregated data to ensure gender differences are visible and can be monitored, and aiming for gender parity across teams conducting interviews with communities. In addition, using the findings of the gender assessment and the gender-sensitive survey on COVID-19 impacts to prioritise funding opportunities for women, who otherwise might remain marginalised due to gender roles that leave them less connected and aware of opportunities, the platform is advancing gender parity in project decision-making processes and across project partners.
These examples show how skills development, multi-sector support and innovation can make women and nature more resilient. Still, its immediate relevance lies in bringing awareness to the role of women in conservation and tourism, where, according to a recent UN report, Advancing Women’s Economic Empowerment in the Tourism Sector in COVID-19 Response and Recovery, the majority of women (58%) work in the informal economy with little or no social protection. They have less access to finance and technology. Yet women’s participation in the tourism sector can contribute to economic empowerment and gender equality.
“Gender equity underpins all the work we’re doing through the African Nature-Based Tourism Platform. We’d love to see more partnerships between women-run enterprises, NGOs, the private sector, and the public sector that support women as they recover from the pandemic and make them resilient to future similar shocks and stressors,” says Advani.
As tourism slowly recovers in post-pandemic Zimbabwe, hunger still stalks the country. Many resort to the basics to survive the loss of income. Read more about communities surviving in post-pandemic Zimbabwe.
I recently had the privilege to realise my lifelong dream of travelling across Tsavo National Park in Kenya on foot on the ‘Great Walk’ with Africa Geographic. I was confident that, even at 80 years of age, I could handle the target of accomplishing 160 km (100 miles) over ten days of walking.
Moreover, I desperately needed to break out of the confines imposed by the pandemic, which had scuttled several planned trips. This expedition to the kingdom of elephants offered an opportunity to remain almost entirely in the open air in a remote area, minimising the risk of infection.
Follow in the footsteps of Tsavo’s elephants along the Great Walk
Tsavo’s tumultuous history
Tsavo National Parks have a rich, and at times tumultuous, history. In 1898, two maneless lions terrorised workers constructing the railway from Mombasa to Nairobi, where it crossed the Tsavo River, devouring at least 28 people before they were shot (providing the subject for the film The Ghost and the Darkness). After the park was proclaimed in 1946, elephant population levels increased so much that scientists called for culling. The population later stabilised when at least 6,000 elephants later died in the park during a severe drought in the early 1970s. The death toll was mostly made up of mother elephants and calves confined to the vicinity of the Galana River, where food had run out. This was followed by rampant poaching, which reduced the elephant population in the park from around 25,000 to not much more than 5,000 animals. By 1989, black rhinos were almost eliminated by poaching. Since then, the vegetation has been recovering, while the elephant population has increased to around ~12,000 animals. By 1995, when I first visited the park, signs of the past damage by elephants were not very apparent, apart from the absence of baobab trees. But it was challenging to make a fair assessment back then from the confines of a motor vehicle.
Despite Tsavo’s history, today elephant populations thrive in the park
The Great Walk of Tsavo
Fast forward to our Great Walk this year. Our walking route followed the Tsavo River from where it enters Tsavo in the west to its junction with the Athi River and continued along the Galana River to exit the park in the east. This Great Walk is a single segment of a much longer expedition travelling from the summit of Kilimanjaro to the ocean north of Mombasa, a distance of 480km+. Our walk through elephant country was lavishly supported in terms of camp facilities and food by a team who shifted tents and fresh supplies from one camping area to the next while we traversed the wild, roadless areas on the opposite side of the two rivers. We had to wade across rivers to connect our walking route with camping facilities. Although the water was no more than thigh deep, there was no guarantee that a crocodile wouldn’t appear, adding to the thrill of the journey. However, we were well protected by skilled armed guides stationed at the front and back of our walking party.
A reasonable degree of fitness is needed to cope with the daily distance targets of 15 km or more, primarily through the midday heat. Our guide, Iain Allan, conveyed much of his 40-year knowledge of the region and its history, of films old and new and of his travels as an accomplished mountaineer. He has never tired of leading another walking expedition through Tsavo because each provides unique experiences.
Our group consisted of eight people, including my wife and me, plus two couples from the USA who had been on many expeditions before and two women from Australia. Our daily walk began each morning at 7:00 and ran until 13:00. Afterwards, we would enjoy a cooked lunch with fresh salads and fruit. After lunch, we spent afternoons resting until it was time for a game drive. This was followed by sundowners overlooking the river alongside our camp. These sundowners gathering us around varying river views at dusk were especially delightful.
Camping arrangements provided the luxury of comfortable beds, each tent with its own little pit toilet and bucket shower, plus expertly cooked meals.
The walkers were well protected by skilled guides stationed at either end of the party
Wild experiences
This trip provided several memorable encounters. We walked through dense shrubbery along hippo paths, trusting that the hippos would be immersed in their aquatic refuges during the day while still facing the prospect of close encounters with elephants and buffalos. Thankfully, all the hippos we saw while walking were in the river, but we were aware of incidents on previous walks when walkers had to be protected from charging hippos. Charging elephants have also, on occasion, been deflected by warning shots. Crocodiles have not caused any injuries, but every precaution was taken to cross rivers in shallow water where elephants cross. The group was kept tightly bunched until we reached the safety of land. The vegetation near the Galana River is much more open and grassy, which allowed us to see animals at a distance, and vice versa – apart from the dense salt-bush shrubbery that we had to traverse frequently to get to or from the river.
The Great Walk took the group of travellers through the various terrains of Tsavo, including through and alongside rivers
Elephants revved us twice. Once, just as we entered a tricky section of thick vegetation between the Tsavo River and a steep rocky slope, there was a loud trumpet, and our guide urged us to head back hastily and ascend the hill as high up as we could. Our passage had been blocked by a giant bull elephant evidently in musth. Fortunately, he deviated up the slope, and we were able to traipse cautiously past.
The second incident involved two female elephants in a family group. They headed towards us with a loud trumpet but veered off when we retreated hastily. We passed by many other elephants, but most remained oblivious to our presence.
The characteristic red-stained hides of Tsavo’s elephants
We had another fright when a buffalo bull galloped out of a salt-bush clump just behind us, heading off as fast as he could.
Even more thrilling were the three encounters we had with lions. In two instances, the lions were sleeping, and we crept on without disturbing them. On the third occasion, two lions ran off across the river when we appeared close by. Fortunately, the lions of Tsavo have not retained any tradition of hunting humans, preferring buffalos.
We enjoyed sightings of giraffe, zebra, fringe-eared oryx, waterbuck, Peter’s gazelle (a subspecies of Grant’s gazelle), impala, hartebeest, dik-dik, a single lesser kudu, two gerenuk and even a brief glimpse of a honey badger – with most sightings taking place in the open dry country north of the Galana River. Unfortunately, once abundant in the region, black rhinos are now rarely seen in the area. I wondered how we would have coped with these cantankerous animals puffing towards us out of the thickets.
The group experienced much wildlife along the way, including various elephant encounters, and buffalo, giraffe and zebra sightings
We saw many birds; most notably huge swarms of queleas and an aggregation of Somali bee-eaters at a Delonyx tree that was flowering and attracting bees. Among the reptiles, we saw just one snake – a cobra – and a large monitor lizard. Among insects, it was fascinating to see large numbers of white Belanois butterflies around Boscia bushes, fluttering westwards. Were they connected with the similar butterflies that we see flying in the Highveld in mid-summer going east, perhaps in some great spiral? Surprisingly, we did not experience mosquitos or tsetse flies.
The experience of being completely immersed in the wild Africa that shaped the evolution of our species for two whole weeks is unique to this Great Walk. Tsavo National Park is fascinatingly different from other East African parks in its landscapes, vegetation and fauna.
Overlooking an elephant in the Tsavo River; the author (third from left) poses with his fellow travellers
Want to go on a safari to Tsavo? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team, scroll down to after this story.
Gentle symmetry. An underground hide provides the opportunity to see eye-to-eye with a pair of endangered reticulated giraffes, elegant aquiline muzzles brushing the mineral-rich red earth of the salt lick. Ol Jogi Wildlife Conservancy, Laikipia, Kenya. Photographer of the Year 2022 entrant
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
Daring giraffe move + another tusker dies + Cape porcupines
So the CoP19 decision-makers in Panama have closed the loophole that Namibia and Zimbabwe have abused to export wild-caught elephants, including babies, to zoos. The moratorium is temporary, though, to give African countries time to find common ground and hopefully make better decisions that promote conservation rather than lining the pockets of a tiny coterie of wildlife traffickers.
Exporting elephants to zoos has absolutely no positive impact on the protection of the species or on serious issues such as ecosystem protection and human-wildlife conflict.
Interesting how silent the lobbyists for ‘sustainable use’ have been about this clear case of cruelty and abuse. May they hang their heads in shame. I support sustainable use that is backed by science, accountability and transparency – none of which seem present when wild-caught elephants are trafficked to tiny concrete cells in far-flung corners of the globe.
Spare a thought for local people living with wildlife; for it is they who carry the cost to lives and livelihoods while others profit handsomely from pretend conservation.
More about the CITES Cop19 decisions in a while. Finally, be the change you seek in others. Out.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
From the iconic to the awe-inspiring, our travel team has put together two adventure offerings in Kenya and Zimbabwe:
Victoria Falls and Hwange – 7 days – US$2,630
This short but iconic safari delivers two of Zimbabwe’s most popular destinations – Victoria Falls and Hwange National Park. Experience the iconic falls and all the activities the raging Zambezi River has to offer, before heading to Hwange for rewarding wildlife viewing in Zim’s largest national park
Kenya highlights – US$11,120
Soak up the best of the Maasai Mara, Samburu and Laikipia. See the Big 5 and Wildebeest Migration and then head to Samburu, in Kenya’s remote and arid far north. Here, you can experience the iconic and rarely seen ‘Samburu five’ – Grevy’s zebra, reticulated giraffe, beisa oryx, gerenuk and Somali ostrich
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
We’re moving with giants this week, celebrating their lives and the people that protect them.
An essential population of West African giraffe in the Gadabedji Biosphere Reserve, Niger, has just been bolstered by the addition of four female giraffes. This after a daring 800km translocation mission under military protection from Niger’s security-stricken ‘Giraffe Zone’, made possible by dedicated conservationists. Read more about this success story below.
In tragic news this week, another iconic Tsavo tusker has died. Lugard, a super tusker that is said to have had one of the largest sets of tusks in Africa, died of natural causes. Lugard is the second tusker to be found deceased in Tsavo in the last month. Read more about Lugard’s life and death in our second story.
In our last story, we explore the wonders of a fascinating mammal: the Cape porcupine. These endearing rodents are family-oriented, elusive and adaptable to the ever-encroaching human impact on their natural habitats. We’re celebrating their resilience in our third story.
Christina Hagen, Project Rep for Birdlife South Africa’s African Penguin Conservation project, writes on the AG Forum:
“A pair of chicks has been seen at a nest at the site of the new African penguin colony in the De Hoop Nature Reserve and Marine Protected Area, near Bredasdorp in the Western Cape, South Africa.
BirdLife South Africa, CapeNature and SANCCOB have been working to re-establish a penguin colony in the De Hoop Nature Reserve to allow breeding penguins better access to moving fish stocks. The project has now reached an important milestone with the first penguin pair successfully hatching and raising two chicks, providing new hope for the future of African penguins. This is an exciting moment for African penguin conservation as it proves that human-assisted colony establishment is possible. While this colony is still in its infancy, it has the potential to contribute to the conservation of this endangered species.”
WATCH: Check out striking footage of Tsavo’s majestic elephants, and the work done by the Tsavo Trust and Kenya Wildlife Services to protect Tsavo’s big tuskers. Keep an eye out for Lugard, the recently deceased super tusker, who can be spotted at 01:24 in the video (02:06). Click here to watch
Lugard, the iconic Tsavo super tusker, has died of natural causes at about 53 years old. Lugard is the second tusker to have died in Tsavo National Park in a month, after matriarch Dida matriarch Dida also died of natural causes.
While Lugard had lived a long life, the Tsavo Trust reports that the severe drought in Tsavo accelerated his natural death. Both of Lugard’s tusks were found intact on his carcass and were recovered.
Tsavo Trust conservation officer and pilot Joseph Kimaile spotted Lugard’s three-day-old carcass from the air during a routine reconnaissance flight in Tsavo West National Park on 21 November. An immediate ground response was then initiated by Kenya Wildlife Services and Tsavo Trust to verify the situation.
On close observation, it was determined that the fallen elephant was indeed Lugard, who had passed away from natural causes
The joint Tsavo Trust and Kenya Wildlife Services Big Tusker Project aims to deliver security and protection to the iconic tuskers through regular monitoring activities.
Lugard was known for his large tusks and the distinct wart on his trunk. His tusks were reported to be one of the largest sets on a living elephant. According to Tsavo Trust field staff, Lugard was one of the more friendly and approachable big tuskers and was easy to identify due to his characteristic wart.
Lugard was first named and recorded in the Big Tusker Project database in January 2014 and has been observed by the project on 373 occasions since.
One of the last images captured of Lugard while he was alive. Hesté de Beer managed to find and photograph Lugard only a week before his death. “He wasn’t moving around a lot,” said Hesté
“This presence and track record is something that has undoubtedly contributed to Lugard living out a full life,” reported Tsavo Trust in its eulogy to Lugard. “This is a rarity in today’s elephant world, and especially with an elephant that has carried such impressive ivory for so many years.”
Africa’s tuskers face many threats, including poaching, habitat loss and human-wildlife conflict. But these elephants are protected in areas such as Kenya’s Tsavo and Amboseli National Parks, where they are monitored for protection against poaching and injury. Kenya does not allow trophy hunting, unlike Botswana and Zimbabwe, where tuskers are targeted for trophy hunting.
The Big Tusker Project collects data and responds to imminent threats to these tuskers. This ongoing presence is a significant deterrent to poachers and other illegal activity.
Lugard regularly crisscrossed between Tsavo East and West National Parks in the Manyani area throughout his life. Observations of his movement between the parks later led to authorities and conservationists developing an underpass under the SG Railway to allow wildlife to cross without harm.
Lugard has fathered dozens of calves over the decades, passing his genes on to many elephants who may become tuskers.
Majestic Lugard’s tusks were said to be one of the largest sets on a living elephant in Africa
An essential population of West African giraffe in the Gadabedji Biosphere Reserve, Niger, has just been bolstered by the addition of four female giraffes after a daring 800km translocation mission.
In mid-November, the four giraffes were translocated under military protection from Niger’s security-stricken ‘Giraffe Zone’, an area in W Transboundary Biosphere Reserve, east of the capital Niamey. The four females joined a group of eight West African giraffe in the reserve, which were re-introduced to the area in 2018. Before the establishment of this population, the highly threatened mammal was absent from the reserve for almost 50 years.
There are currently only 600+ highly threatened West African giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis peralta) – a subspecies of the Northern giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis) – remaining in the wild. This isolated population is restricted to the Giraffe Zone, which is not formally protected. Establishing a second viable population of West African giraffe in the Gadabedji area is key to their long-term survival.
“Operation Sahel Giraffe II”, which entailed covering the 800km journey in only 48 hours, was coordinated by the Giraffe Conservation Foundation (GCF) in collaboration with the Nigerien Ministry of Environment, with support from SaharaConservation and Wild Africa Conservation.
The four giraffes were translocated under military protection from Niger’s security-stricken ‘Giraffe Zone’
After a year of preparation, the four females were captured in the Giraffe Zone and transferred to a holding pen, where they were kept for several days to prepare them for the long and arduous journey. After travelling by truck in convoy under heavy military protection, the giraffes were successfully released into the reserve and promptly joined the resident population.
In recent months, prior to the addition of the four new females, three calves were born to the Gadabedji population. Conservationists hope the addition of these females will contribute to breeding successes within the population.
The giraffes were successfully released into Gadabedji Biosphere Reserve
Approximately 50 years ago, giraffes became locally extinct in the Gadabedji Biosphere Reserve due to drought and illegal hunting. Since 2013, Niger’s Wildlife Authority, with support from the Niger Fauna Corridor Project/GEF/UNDP, has worked towards restoring the region’s wildlife and habitat. The re-introduction has helped to enrich the reserve’s biodiversity and contributed to increasing community development and support in the area. Growing this second viable population of West African giraffe outside of the Giraffe Zone is key to their long-term survival.
“While giraffe continue to thrive in the Giraffe Zone, their safety is not guaranteed,” says Dr Sara Ferguson, Conservation Health Coordinator of the Giraffe Conservation Foundation.
In the Giraffe Zone, the giraffes share their habitat with local communities and livestock, and compete for space and resources. Their threats include agricultural encroachment, climate change and variability, human population growth, and natural-resource over-exploitation. As a result of a growing giraffe population and increasing human population pressure, giraffe have started to migrate out of the Giraffe Zone, where they find themselves in conflict situations with humans unaccustomed to their presence, and too close to the insecure border areas with Burkina Faso, Mali, and Nigeria.
“Our team took a huge risk in moving these giraffe – specifically from Koure to Gadabedji,” says Ferguson. “We captured these giraffe close to the very spot where both Nigeriens and foreign French tourists were killed in a senseless act of terrorism a few years ago when innocently visiting these rare giraffe. It was not an easy mission and keeping both giraffe and the team safe was not an easy task by a longshot. However, the reward of seeing these four majestic animals run free into their new home made it all worthwhile.”
The giraffes travelled the 800km journey in the back of a truck
In the mid-1990s, only 49 West African giraffe remained in the wild, and as a result, the subspecies was listed as Endangered on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species in 2008.
Conservation efforts by the Government of Niger, in collaboration with local and international partners, triggered the remarkable recovery to its present-day population of over 600. The population increase resulted in the downlisting of the subspecies to Vulnerable on the IUCN Red List in November 2018.
This re-introduction of West African giraffe to their former range in Niger is just one small but important milestone in the conservation efforts that the Giraffe Conservation Foundation has instigated with their partners.
As African mammals go, the Cape porcupine (Hystix africaeaustralis) is perhaps the least ambiguous in its message to the world around it – for a creature with a crest of spines, some of which are over 50cm in length, social distancing was never going to be a challenge. Yet despite their somewhat antisocial look, these fortified rodents have a surprisingly family-oriented approach to life and, if left alone, are relatively innocuous in their existence. Retiring and elusive, it is often only their family-shared attraction to human rubbish that alerts surrounding people to their presence.
The basics
Cape porcupines are the largest rodents in Africa and the fourth largest in the world after South America’s capybaras and North American and Eurasian beavers. The largest Cape porcupines measured have weighed more than 30kg, though most weigh around 20kg, with minimal size difference between the males and the females. They are found throughout Southern, Central and East Africa in a wide range of habitats from deserts to forest, and live for over 10 years in the wild. At present, Cape porcupines are listed as being of “least concern” by the IUCN.
They are stocky and powerfully built creatures with short limbs, and while they can bustle off at a fair pace if disturbed, porcupines clearly do not rely on speed or camouflage as part of their predator avoidance strategy. Instead, it is their significant armoury that keeps them safe – a strategy effective for all but the most determined or foolish of predators.
When threatened, porcupines stiffen their quills away from their bodies, forming a protective shield around their backs
The weapons
Their black-and-white quiver of quills is an example of aposematic colouring – contrasting colouration used to warn would-be predators to think twice about attacking. This is combined with specially modified hollow quills that the porcupines use to make a startling rattling sound when threatened. If these warnings are ignored, porcupines are not afraid to use these spines, sometimes to deadly effect. The quills themselves are essentially modified, hardened hairs and they come in several different shapes and sizes that all form part of the same defence system. The longest of these tend to be quite thin and flexible – the perfect tool for poking at vulnerable eyes and making it extremely difficult to get anywhere close to the porcupine’s body. A second set of quills set in clusters around the porcupine’s back and tail are shorter and thicker, creating a powerful barrier of spears that are used for precisely that purpose.
Despite the general misconception to the contrary, porcupines are incapable of shooting their spines at would-be attackers like some kind of archer. Instead, their technique when threatened is to stiffen their quills away from their bodies, forming a protective shield around their backs and then, if necessary, they reverse at high speed into their attacker. The ends of their quills are highly barbed at the tip, which enables quick penetration but makes removal extremely difficult and it is not all that uncommon to see leopards or lions with quills deeply embedded within their flesh. Though rare, these painful injuries and subsequent infections can prove fatal.
This stab-and-retreat approach is effective as a deterrent – most predators will back off from confrontation. That said, lions and leopards can and do kill porcupines, though in the case of lions this is unusual behaviour only seen in curious adolescents or particularly hungry individuals. Young leopards also find themselves attracted to the allure of such slow-moving prey and some develop unique strategies that allow them to become porcupine specialists. Using their finely honed ambush skills, these porcupine enthusiasts aim for the head before the porcupine has time to fire up its defence systems.
Fascinatingly, spotted hyenas very seldom bother to harass porcupines. In areas with high availability of prey (without such thorny exteriors), hyena cubs and porcupines sometimes share the same set of burrows. However, the rambunctious hyena cubs usually send their neighbours packing eventually. As diurnal animals, warthogs tend to make better roommates, returning to the burrow just as the porcupines are getting ready to depart. Unless there has to be an unfortunate mistiming of entry, these arrangements tend to be largely without incident.
Only the most determined – and fiercest – of predators will take their chances with a porcupine’s highly barbed quills. (View more of Anna-C Nagel’s images via @wildphotographix, and read the story of this encounter between a honey badger and Cape porcupine via the link under Resources below)
Diet and behaviour
Porcupines are almost entirely nocturnal, emerging from their underground burrows at dusk to set off in search of a mostly plant-based diet, ranging across a territory that can be over 200 hectares in certain areas. As previously mentioned, porcupines do display a particular proclivity for raiding human habitation in search of tastier meals. Vegetable gardens prove to be a particularly attractive option and unless well-protected, will seldom survive long in an area where porcupines roam. Some individuals become so brazen that they have been known to enter houses, much to the bemusement and occasional surprise of resident humans and pets.
Thanks to their rodent incisors, the signs of porcupine feeding activity are easy to spot. They have a particular appreciation for the bark at the base of tamboti trees (Spirostachys africana), even though the latex secreted by these trees is extremely toxic to humans. Their foraging activities are not entirely limited to the vegetarian options, and they regularly gnaw on bones to supplement their mineral intake.
Reproduction
Porcupines are monogamous, and both the male and female play a role in raising and protecting their young (known as porcupettes – watch this cute video). The pair mates regularly (and carefully) throughout the year, though the female typically only has one litter each year, usually during the wet season. The average number of offspring is one porcupette, but there can be up to three in a litter, born with soft quills that harden a few days after birth. The young spend their first few weeks close to the safety of a set of burrows before they are old enough to accompany their parents on foraging excursions. They reach sexual maturity at around a year old, and both the males and females disperse from their natal groups once mature.
Porcupines are almost entirely nocturnal
Resilient through and through
Even though they are sometimes hunted and eaten in the bushmeat trade and their quills are used for both ornamental purposes and traditional medicine, overall Cape porcupine numbers remain stable for now. There are regions where they are more likely to be persecuted, particularly in farming areas where their dietary preferences and ability to dig under fences do little to endear them to their human neighbours. Yet, like many members of the rodent family, Cape porcupines have shown themselves to be both resilient and adaptable to the ever-encroaching human impact on their natural habitats.
The human population has doubled in just 48 years – to 8 billion. Try suggesting that there are too many of us and face being cancelled by easily offended keyboard warriors and economists/politicians who believe that growth is good and necessary for the ongoing rollout of humankind’s exclusive-use model for Planet Earth.
The elephant population in Africa has plummeted over about the same period from 1,3 million in 1980 to 415,428 in 2015 (last census). That’s a 68% decline.
And yet vociferous and influential right-wing activists and some governments will have us believe that there are too many elephants.
Go figure ?
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
The 19th meeting of the Conference of the Parties to CITES (CoP19) is currently underway in Panama City. There is a buzz this year around the proposal brought by ten African states to uplist hippos from Appendix II to Appendix I. Hippo specimens (especially ivory) are legally and illegally traded in large numbers, and shifting hippos to Appendix 1 should ensure stricter legal trade regulations. We’ve unpacked the issues at play in our first story.
In our second story, we explore the ideal safari for avid photographers searching for a raw experience of the Maasai Mara: Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp in Kenya’s Mara North Conservancy. We’ve seen some incredible photos emanating from Oltepesi – including this year’s winning entry for Photographer of the Year. Simon went to see for himself what Oltepesi has to offer, and was bowled over by his experience of a safari that caters to every special need of its photographer guests. Read more below.
Did you know that Madagascar was once home to several species of Malagasy hippos, lemurs the size of humans, and giant elephant birds? The biggest of the elephant bird species was around three metres tall and roughly 750 kg (take a moment to let that sink in – even the heaviest ostriches seldom weigh more than 140 kg).
So where did they go? Well, no one knows for sure, but (somewhat unsurprisingly) their disappearance seems to coincide with a human population boom on the island.
Exploring Zambia with AG
Lex van Vught and his wife Joan recently travelled with AG to South Luangwa NPandKafue NPin Zambia:
“Already spoiled by a lifetime of fabulous sightings in the wild, my wife and I experienced a phenomenon in Zambia in September that simply took our breaths away: we sat for hours in a hide 20m away from a raucous breeding colony of hundreds of pairs of southern carmine bee-eaters, breeding in tunnels in a bank near the Kaingo Camp in South Luangwa.
Equally sensational was the hide at the Mwamba Bush Camp where we spent many hours photographing a constant stream of fauna, with our subjects mere metres from us.
Another destination on our 9-day trip was Busanga Plains in Kafue – Zambia’s unspoiled national park, which is even larger than South Africa’s Kruger National Park. The transfers and tsetse flies were soon forgotten when we found ourselves surrounded by herds of lechwe from horizon to horizon. We witnessed groups of up to 30 roan antelope, hippos too numerous to count, many other mammals and abundant bird life. Our three bush camps were intimate and wonderful, and all logistics and arrangements made by AG were excellent.”
WATCH: Care for a taste of an AG safari? We are a TAILORED SAFARI company and have been crafting life-changing vacations since 1991. All budgets and interests are catered for. Start the discussion to come on safari with us! (01:05). Click here to watch
There is a camp in Kenya’s Mara North Conservancy in the Maasai Mara ecosystem that caters to photographers – of all levels. It’s co-owned by a local Maasai man and is the lifeblood of an entire community – providing jobs and financial security. In addition, the borehole and water tank at the camp provide over 2,000 people with potable water. This is Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp.
After seeing fantastic photos emanating from Oltepesi (including from our 2022 Photographer of the Year winner), I was keen to head out there to see for myself. So, armed with my mobile phone, I joined a group of AG clients for a few days of their Maasai Mara safari.
Late afternoon camaraderie between two young males – a sample of the photographic opportunities on offer at Oltepesi
The first thing that struck me when we arrived at Oltepesi after our one-hour flight from Nairobi and a 40-minute game drive to the camp was the location within a village. So daily interactions with the Maasai folk were adhoc and unrehearsed as if I was a member of their community. Strolling over to visit local children or to walk amongst the goats in their pen next to the vegetable garden was not an arranged outing, as it usually is when on safari. And taking photos was a joyful process – not as awkward as it can be. This au naturel exposure to Maasai culture added significant value and dignity to my stay at Oltepesi. As did knowing that my visit DIRECTLY benefited an entire village and so helped preserve the magic of Maasai Mara.
Daily interactions with local Maasai people are commonplace, as Oltepesi is situated within a village
And then there is the location. Mara North Conservancy borders Maasai Mara National Reserve (there are no fences), so game drives start when you leave camp. Expect livestock herds mixed in with wildlife before you cross the invisible Reserve boundary (and even inside the Reserve in places) because the Maasai owners of Mara North blend their traditional pastoral livelihood with a tourism model. None of our party felt weird about seeing herders guiding their livestock past zebras and elephants – this reminded me how flexible the Maasai people are and how they accept wild animals as valid co-inhabitants of their space. What a privilege to share their home.
A Maasai woman poses with a young lamb outside her home in the Oltepesi compound. Au naturel exposure to Maasai culture adds significant value to an Oltepesi safari
The camp is what I would call ‘functional comfort’ – everything you need as a photographer but little by way of frills. That’s why it’s so affordable compared to other camps in the area. When you spend most of your day out there taking epic photos, you don’t want to spend a fortune on unused luxuries. The camp is entirely off the grid, with 24/7 device-charging facilities in your tent and the common area. There is wifi for emails and Whatsapp. The food is wholesome, and the service is excellent.
Oltepesi is comfortable, functional and off-the-grid; expect livestock herds mixed in with wildlife
During my stay, I spent time with two Oltepesi guides – John Siololo and George Kiriama. Both were excellent – not only for their knowledge of the area and how to find wildlife but their understanding of positioning the vehicle for optimal photography.
We spent the majority of every day out there on the endless plains of the Maasai Mara, leaving camp before the first sparrow chirp and returning after the nightjars and hyenas started cranking up the volume.
Submerged deep within the herds
After hours of game drives and photography, we would pull over under a massive tree or on a rocky ridge and enjoy scrumptious Kenyan coffee, eggs, bacon and flapjacks or Kenyan beer, pasta, cold meats, salad and fresh bread rolls – depending on the time of day. We spent many hours observing wildlife movements and anticipating photographic opportunities and often remained at sightings long after other tourists had left the scene. We left sightings that had attracted too many tourists – much to my relief. This was the prime season, after all. The pace of a day like this differs from the game drive routine at most lodges. Our mission was to be OUT THERE for as long as possible – making the most of our rare time in paradise.
Game drives at Oltepesi are centred around photography – from the use of a specially modified vehicle to guides who ensure optimal experiences for photographers
Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp is the birthchild of two wonderful human beings. Norwegian semi-professional photographer Arnfinn Johansen and John Siololo first met many years back when John was a private guide and Arnfinn the client. Arnfinn returned year after year to spend time with John in the Maasai Mara. After spending time on John’s family land, the idea was born to start a lodge in 2017. Fast forward to current times, and the two gents use their combined networks to make a real difference at ground level. Amongst many endeavours, they donate bednights to the Remembering Wildlife series of photographic books – the proceeds go towards conservation projects. Right to Sight is a campaign to provide cataract surgery to prevent blindness. In 2023, Oltepesi will close for a portion of the low season to be used as a clinic for eye surgery for local people.
The photos below tell the story of my journey with the Oltepesi crew better than I can – please enjoy them.
A young male glows in the golden lightA martial eagle casts a wary eye on the photographerNonchalant as a heavy storm approaches
Young cheetahs try – and succeed in – the huntA dark-chanting goshawk takes flightRed-faced and satiatedA giant stretch to loosen the limbsAn afternoon stroll, unphased by the presence of a hyena
Want to go on a safari to Oltepesi? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team, scroll down to after this story.
Ten African states have proposed the transfer of the hippopotamus from CITES Appendix II to Appendix I ahead of the 19th Conference of the Parties.
Their 36-page proposal highlights that hippo specimens (especially ivory) are legally and illegally traded in large numbers and that the animals are currently listed as ‘Vulnerable’ on the IUCN’s Red List of Threatened Species. The shift to Appendix I should ensure stricter legal trade regulations and make it more challenging for illegal hippo parts to enter the market.
CITES and the Conference of the Parties
The Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) is a multinational treaty that regulates international trade to avoid the over-exploitation of animals and plants. As a fundamental starting point, all trade is permitted unless a species is listed in one of three appendixes:
Appendix 1 – species threatened by extinction or trade, such as cheetahs, chimpanzees and pangolins. Trade in animals listed under Appendix 1 is almost entirely banned except under exceptional circumstances, and export and import permits are required. Any captive-bred animals are treated under the auspices of Appendix 2.
Appendix 2 – species whose numbers could become threatened if subject to uncontrolled trade. Only an export permit is required to trade in animals and plants listed in this appendix.
Appendix 3 – species are included at the request of a member state wanting the cooperation of other countries to control exploitation.
Every three years, the parties to the convention (the signatory countries) meet to review the treaty’s implementation. Here, the Appendix listing of individual species is revised as an ongoing discussion regarding their numbers and the success (or otherwise) of conservation efforts. The states can also make recommendations to improve the efficiency of the implementation of the treaty. The 14th of November 2022 marks the start of the 19th meeting of the Conference of the Parties (CoP19) to the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wildlife Fauna and Flora (CITES) in Panama.
Ahead of each event, state parties are invited to submit proposals on amendments to the appendix listing of species to either strengthen or relax trade regulations. The proposals must detail how trade affects the species and any other threats they may face.
The Hippopotamus
Benin, Burkina Faso, Central African Republic, Gabon, Guinea, Liberia, Mali, Niger, Senegal and Togo submitted a joint proposal that hippos (Hippopotamus amphibius) be moved from Appendix II to Appendix I. The document details how the species was first listed as ‘Vulnerable’ in the IUCN Red List in 2006, a categorisation affirmed by the most recent assessment in 2016. The proposal also emphasises that hippos are particularly vulnerable to overexploitation due to their low reproductive output. Females only reach sexual maturity at around ten years, and mature cows produce just one calf at a minimum of two-year intervals.
The 2016 IUCN Assessment estimated a continental hippo population of between 115,000 and 130,000 mature individuals. While the overall population is considered stable, the IUCN states: “Conservation status of hippos remains precarious, and the need for direct conservation action to protect hippos and hippo habitat across their range is a priority. Although hippo populations have stabilised in some countries, hippo population declines are still reported in many countries. The growing and unabated threats of habitat loss and unregulated hunting are major challenges to hippo population viability and persistence” (IUCN, 2016).
The proposal provides a comprehensive summary of population assessments in individual countries across the continent. The upshot is hippos were already believed to be declining (or their status was unknown) in 25 of 38 of their range countries in 2016. Furthermore, research from later years indicates that some of the conclusions of the 2016 Assessment are no longer applicable. For example, the population was deemed to be increasing in Uganda, but a study published in 2021 found hippos in Murchison Falls National Park (which represents a population stronghold in Uganda) had declined 65% since 2016, from 1,683 to 590.
Hippos are particularly vulnerable to overexploitation due to their low reproductive output: females only reach sexual maturity at around ten years of age
The trade in hippos
The 2016 Assessment identified habitat loss and illegal and unregulated hunting (for meat and ivory) as the two primary threats to hippo populations. According to the CITES Trade Database, 77,579 hippo “specimens” (including ivory, teeth, trophies, skulls and live animals) were globally imported between 2009 and 2018, 98% of which were wild-sourced. Using the Trade Database statistics, the proposal estimates that these specimens represent some 13,909 individual hippos. The most common trade was in ivory carvings. The USA, France and Hong Kong were among the top importers, while the leading countries of origin were Tanzania, Zimbabwe, Uganda, South Africa, and Malawi.
In addition to the legal trade, the illegal trade in hippo ivory rose sharply following the listing of African elephant species in Appendix I in 1989. In the years following this decision, the export of illegal hippo ivory increased by an estimated 200% – a trend that has continued in the intervening decades. Between 2009 and 2018, nearly 1,000kg and over 6,000 hippo specimens destined for illegal trade were seized in 48 countries.
Safeguarding Africa’s hippos
Research suggests that for the hippo, even an offtake of 1% of the adult population sustained over several decades can result in population declines when accounting for rainfall variability and habitat loss. Yet in all the top countries of origin but for Zambia, the estimated legal trade exceeded 1% of the total population.
The hunting of hippos is completely banned in 14 African countries: Angola, Burkino Faso, Cameroon, Central African Republic, the Democratic Republic of Congo, Gabon, Ghana, Guinea Bissau, Kenya, Niger, Nigeria, Rwanda, Senegal and Somalia. Yet according to the CITES Trade Database, hippo specimens from five of these countries entered legal trade despite such exports being illegal under national law. Of all countries where the hunting and export of hippos is legal and regulated (including South Africa, Tanzania, Zimbabwe, Zambia and Malawi), only Cameroon has a national hippo management plan currently in place.
Final thoughts
The shift of animals from Appendix II to Appendix I is understandably celebrated by those campaigning for stricter trade regulations. However, it is also an indictment of the failings of conservation efforts to protect these species and should serve as a grave warning of the ongoing challenges they face. Whether hippos are uplisted to Appendix I at this CoP or one in the future, it will mark a grim milestone in the precipitous decline of another of Africa’s iconic large mammals.
Resources
CITES was established to regulate the international trade of animals & plants to avoid the over-exploitation of endangered species. Read more about how CITES works here.
A grey crowned crane stretches out its neck and wing during a mating dance. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. Photographer of the Year 2020 entrant
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
Fallen tusker + magical Bazaruto + human-wildlife conflict in Namibia
Turn up the mic. I have something to say.
Social media discussions about trophy hunting as a tool to save Africa’s wild places often collapse into bitter spats. How many keyboard warriors (on both ends of the ideological spectrum) go beyond the bickering to actually DO SOMETHING?
I know of one (non-tourism) company that leases a vast (60,000 ha) hunting concession in the Mana Pools area of Zimbabwe – that’s 36km of Zambezi River frontage. Over the last five years, they have paid the annual trophy hunting fees due to the government – and yet not one animal has been hunted. They also got rid of poaching, improved the roads and implemented successful local community projects. Wildlife populations have bounced back. They did this without fanfare because they believe it is the right thing to do. Now, this slice of paradise is ready for the next phase of its journey – responsible photographic tourism. There is no shortage of willing operators keen to set up shop. But someone must fund the ongoing legacy – by paying the annual trophy hunting fees. The required amount is significant at +/- USD300,000 per annum.
Are there any well-heeled individuals or anti-hunting charities out there that are prepared to step forward? Contact me for a private discussion. My team and I have no financial interest in this operation – just a deep-seated drive to help others work their magic. No chancers, please.
Keep the passion
Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
We have two thrilling safaris lined up for those seeking a fiery introduction to some of southern Africa’s best destinations.
Cape Town and Kruger safari – 7 days:
Blend sophisticated, vibey Cape Town and the Cape Winelands with exceptional Greater Kruger Big-5 game viewing in this classic bucket-list safari. We recommend 7 days, but will adapt the safari to suit your needs. Budget, mid-range and luxury options are all on offer
Okavango Delta safari – 4 days:
This safari in the Okavango Delta is a great introduction to this watery paradise. The Okavango is a lush wilderness of grassy floodplains, islands and water channels, which are engineered and maintained by hippos & elephants. Don’t miss out on one of the most fascinating ecosystems on the planet
From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld
This week we explore the magic of Bazaruto Archipelago National Park, a marine paradise off the coast of Mozambique. Bazaruto has all the ingredients of a sublime ocean-themed safari. Fascinating creatures, breathtaking scenery, and exceptional biodiversity define the five islands and marine habitats making up the archipelago, where diverse coral reefs thrive. If you’re keen for a barefoot adventure in one of the planet’s most beautiful seascapes, check out our first story below.
The answer to mitigating human-wildlife conflict in wild areas in Africa is no simple one. But understanding long-term trends associated with different types and frequencies of conflict incidents is essential in planning mitigation policies and aiding communities negatively affected by them. Our second story below examines research from Namibia, delving into the history of human-wildlife conflict incidents in the country between 2001 and 2019 to identify some crucial trends. An important story when trying to understand the complexities at play. See below.
Lastly, elephant Dida, tusker and matriarch of Tsavo National Park, and possibly Africa’s largest female tusker, has died of natural causes. Read more about this fallen giant in our third story.
There is a glorious moment at the end of the long dry season when the storm clouds build and release the first drops of precious, life-giving water. At this point, someone invariably says, “Ah, I love that smell,” and someone else is bound by the inexplicable laws of the Universe to nod sagely and reply, “There’s a word for that smell – it’s ‘petrichor'”. Happens every year and comes as a revelation to no one.
But did you know that the smell of petrichor is the scent of dead bacteria? Specifically, a compound called geosmin, which is released by dead microbes like Streptomyces bacteria in the soil. Apparently, the human nose is 200,000x more sensitive to geosmin than a shark is to blood in the water.
It is a pleasant smell, though.
WATCH: Watch as Verity, a 15 year old lioness in Khutse Game Reserve in the Kalahari, Botswana, fends off a pack of wild dogs so she can get to the waterhole to drink. Female lions have a life expectancy of 15-16 years in the wild: Verity has done very well for a lion of her age in the harsh Kalahari environment (02:29). Click here to watch
Picture the scene: you’ve spent the day exploring the azure waters of a marine sanctuary, suspended in the amniotic embrace of the Indian Ocean and marvelling at encounters with its enigmatic residents. Sun-kissed and slightly salty, you sip a cocktail (of a suitably lurid colour) and watch the hues of the sky and sand as Africa delivers one of her speciality sunsets. Mozambique’s Bazaruto Archipelago has all the ingredients of a sublime safari, albeit ocean-themed: fascinating creatures, breathtaking scenery, and exceptional biodiversity.
Bazaruto Archipelago National Park
Bazaruto Archipelago National Park spans a vast 1,260km² (126,000 hectares) off the coastline of Mozambique, encompassing five islands, diverse coral reefs and critical marine habitats. Declared a protected area in 1971, Bazaruto (meaning ‘island of the mist’) is the country’s oldest marine park. Three of the five islands are home to a tiny rural population of some 5,000 people, who survive predominantly through subsistence farming and harvesting the archipelago’s natural resources.
The eponymous Bazaruto Island is the largest of the islands by a substantial margin. Its eastern edge is dominated by enormous and ancient dunes, while the interior is pockmarked by inland lakes and wetlands, home to crocodiles and abundant birdlife. Benguerra and Magaruque Islands to the south are similarly structured on a smaller scale. Santa Caroline (also known as Paradise Island – for good reason) is the only true volcanic island, uninhabited and positioned between Bazaruto and the mainland. Finally, tiny Banque Island (and its satellite Pansy Shell Island) occupies the southernmost tip of the park – little more than a stretch of sand.
Each of the five islands has a unique character, but all share the same fundamentals: long stretches of the white sandy beaches for which Mozambique is renowned and a cornucopia of life in the seas around them.
A glimpse of Bazaruto’s azure-blue waters and extensive beaches
Bazaruto’s picture-perfect beaches roll on as far as the eye can see. This profusion of natural resources paved the way for abuse through overuse, illegal fishing practices, poaching and poorly regulated tourism activities, which threatened Bazaruto’s rare and endemic marine life. Fortunately, the park became the first marine reserve to fall under the management auspices of African Parks in 2017 when they partnered with Mozambique’s National Administration of Conservation Areas to protect the country’s sapphire treasure.
DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.
The non-profit organisation immediately set about securing the region, clamping down on illegal fishing and turtle poaching, and intercepting commercial fishing vessels. To ensure the park’s long-term future, African Parks immediately established a community engagement programme to build a relationship between local communities and park management teams. Through scholarships, learning materials, uniforms, and several other initiatives, such as disaster relief, the goal is to ensure that communities sustainably benefit from their country’s resources. African Parks also worked with tourism operators in the region to formalise the regulation of activities conducted in the park.
The result is a thriving seascape with flourishing aquatic inhabitants (including endangered sea turtles and rare dugongs) and exceptional potential for high-end, low-impact tourism.
Bazaruto consists of five islands and diverse coral reefs; long white beaches dominate the island; the island is home to critical marine habitats, and sea turtles are a common sight here; Santa Caroline Island is also known as Paradise Island
Ocean safari
Bazaruto is one of the most valuable marine sanctuaries along the East African coastline, protecting critical habitats for many rare and endemic species, including iconic oceanic megafauna. The temperate and calm waters of the area act as one of the most important breeding grounds and migratory corridors of East Africa’s coast. Pods of six species of dolphins (bottlenose, common, Fraser’s, humpback, spinner and striped) cut through the turquoise waves. Below the surface, silver flashes and kaleidoscope colours reveal some 2,000 species of fishes. For half the year, migrating southern right and humpback whales move through the warm waters, their leviathan figures breaching out of the water before slamming down in a cloud of spray. Now and again, the long black fins and sleek tuxedo forms of orcas (killer whales) move silently through the tranquil seas.
For elasmobranch (cartilaginous fish – sharks, rays and so on) enthusiasts, the waters of Mozambique are home to 122 species. In particular, the country is famous for its whale shark encounters. These gentle giants are the biggest fishes in the world, reaching over 14 metres in length, dwarfing those fortunate enough to swim by their side. They congregate around Bazaruto between October and April and (provided they are treated with respect) are slow and docile, allowing for the deeply humbling privilege of time spent in their harmless company. Each of these prodigious plankton-eaters is covered in a unique constellation of white spots, which help scientists keep track of an individual’s movements across the globe.
The whale sharks generally prefer the deeper waters further from the coast, along with other pelagic sharks, manta rays and myriad fish species, including kingfish, king mackerel, marlin, and sailfish. Closer to shore, deep calm blue gives way to the hustle and bustle of the reefs. Coral reefs cover just 0.1% of the ocean yet support 25% of all marine life, which gives some idea of the tremendous diversity on display. In Bazaruto, these vibrant oceanic hubs support a plethora of fauna and flora, from eye-catching fishes to flamboyant nudibranchs.
Every year from November until March, the seas fill with female sea turtles bobbing through to nest on the islands’ beaches. Many (but not all) are returning to the place where they once made the terrifying journey to the sea as hatchlings at least thirty years previously. African Parks has implemented a turtle nest monitoring programme and has since confirmed that five species of turtle: leatherback, loggerhead, green, olive ridley and hawksbill turtles all nest on the beaches of the Bazaruto Archipelago.
2,000 species of fishes call the national park home; a crocodile fish blends into the reef; bottlenose dolphins frolic in the waves; scuba diving in the numerous coral reefs is a popular activity around the islands
A mermaid’s tale
Yet of all the marine wonders of Bazaruto, the dugongs are the archipelago’s most sought-after residents. Dugongs are the only surviving representatives of an entire family (Dugongidae), and those inhabiting Bazaruto are the last viable population in the western Indian Ocean. Cousins to the manatee, these peculiar-looking creatures look a little as though someone crossed a hippopotamus and a dolphin. Some historians have even postulated that the dugong may be the origin of mermaid mythology in certain cultures.
These massive (up to around 500kg) animals are strictly herbivorous, and their snouts are adapted to vacuum up seagrass from the ocean floor, imparting a rather woeful expression to their round faces and earning them the nickname “sea cows”. Due to the fragile nature of this remaining population of some 300 individuals, African Parks has implemented strict rules for viewing them from boats or underwater. Swimming with dugongs is only permitted in the presence of a guide and is limited to four people at a time. These restrictions (along with the other widescale protective measures) have already proved successful. At the end of 2021, Mozambique documented the largest dugong herd in East Africa in nearly thirty years.
Dugongs are the archipelago’s most sought-after residents
Explore & stay
Want to go on a safari to Bazaruto? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team, scroll down to after this story.
Bazaruto Archipelago National Park is open to day visitors and is easily accessible from the nearby towns of either Vilankulos or Inhassoro. Visitors will find accommodation options within and around these mainland hubs to suit almost any budget, from backpackers and hostels to private villas and five-star luxury. However, many visitors opt to stay within the park at one of the magnificent lodges tucked away on a private beach.
Unsurprisingly, most hours are whiled away enjoying the soft white sands of the beaches or exploring the cerulean waters beyond. Hence, activities such as diving, snorkelling, kite surfing or deep-sea fishing are the order of the day. Tiny sailboats transport sun-kissed visitors between islands, stopping over for an intimate picnic beach without another living soul in sight. Experienced equestrians can crest the dunes on horseback before galloping through the sea spray, while less-experienced riders can sit back in the saddle and let their horses amble through the lapping waves. Helicopter flips, sunset cruises on local dhows, beach barbeques and dune boarding – this magical section of the Mozambican coast is a tropical beach paradise.
For those able to drag themselves from the sea, there are inland hikes past scenic freshwater lakes (many of which are home to Nile crocodiles, so swimming is not advisable!) framed against a backdrop of enormous dunes.
Deciding on when to visit is a matter of personal priorities based on both temperatures and seasonal movements of marine life. The park is at its hottest from October to March, when the whale sharks concentrate around the Bazaruto waters. This is also the rainiest time of the year; December through April is considered cyclone season. Unless the goal of the trip is to swim with whale sharks, many travellers prefer to visit during the milder winter months between May to September. The first humpback whales move through Bazaruto in July, with the stragglers departing around October. (For a seasonal calendar of wildlife viewing and weather and up-to-date feedback on research conducted in the area, the Bazaruto Centre for Scientific Studies website is an excellent resource.)
Dhows line the beaches; explore the beaches and dunes on horseback; there are ample opportunities for water activities; fishing activities are closely controlled on the island; a dhow bobs on the water, playing host to seabirds; epic snorkelling opportunities abound throughout the archipelago
A synonym for blue
While it may not include the standard African safari “fare”, there is no question that a sojourn to Bazaruto Archipelago is defined by a celebration of its spectacular and diverse wildlife. The intoxicating thaumaturgy of water and light accentuates the stunning seascapes supporting rare and endemic marine creatures.
There are no one-size-fits-all or universal criteria for predicting and mitigating human-wildlife conflict. However, understanding long-term trends associated with different types and frequencies of conflict incidents is essential in designing mitigation policies and allocating resources. New research from Namibia examines human-wildlife conflict between 2001 and 2019 to identify some of these crucial trends.
Of the total 112,165 human-wildlife conflict incidents (HWIs) reported across the country, livestock depredation was the most common type of conflict (83%), and elephants were the species most associated with conflict incidents (22%). However, the researchers found marked variation between regions, as well as the significant impact of various factors, including distance to the nearest protected area, geography, conservancy size and, in particular, both annual and average monthly rainfall.
In arid north-western parts of Namibia, where extensive pastoralism is the main agricultural activity, livestock depredation and infrastructure damage ranked highest in frequency. In the wetter regions of the northeast, where higher rainfall and productive soils favour crop production, HWIs were more associated with crop raiding and attacks on people. A total of 1415 “problem animals” were killed or trapped across 79 Namibian community conservancies from 2001 to 2019.
The authors point to an overall lack of national spatio-temporal data as hampering the identification, targeting and prioritising of hotspots of wildlife damage throughout Africa. Given that resources to mitigate such conflict are invariably limited, they must be appropriately allocated to reduce livelihood losses. Hence mapping negative impacts and identifying drivers of high levels of damage is an essential first step in apportioning resources in a species- and area-specific manner.
Though they acknowledge that humans are the principal architect of negative interactions with animals, their results indicate the extensive adverse impacts wildlife can have on people and their livelihoods. Restricting wildlife to protected areas significantly limits wildlife abundance and distribution, but a coexistence model increases the risks of negative wildlife interactions. Thus, the study concludes that the “goal… is to both monitor these interactions and attempt to mitigate through appropriately scaled and affordable interventions which will improve tolerance towards wildlife and conservation objectives as a whole”.
An aerial view of the sandy red dunes of the Namib Desert, Namibia. Photographer of the Year 2020 entrant
This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.
Disappearing lions + Botswana safari SADC special + Mara champagne safari
Africa’s disappearing lions have been the subject of animated discussion for years, but just how dire is the situation? Pretty dire: scientists have found that there has been a staggering 75% decline in Africa’s lion populations in the past five decades. In our first story below, we examine the disappearing habitats and disconnection leading to dwindling lion numbers.
Our second story below is for residents of the Southern African Development Community planning their summer holidays. Botswana is a dream destination for safari fanatics – though a luxurious lodge holiday here is often out of reach for those in its neighbouring countries. But that’s about to change as we make your Botswana safari fantasy come true. We’ve put together our guide of jaw-dropping special offers and staggeringly low prices for SADC residents.
If you’re a non-SADC resident, do check out our special offers and tasty packages in our Travel Desk below – we endeavour to make your safari dreams come true.
Nose-picking is a terrible human habit, is it not? There is little as off-putting as the sight of a finger venturing into the nostril in pursuit of something unmentionable.
Yet here’s the thing about rhinotillexomania – there appears to be some inexplicable impulse to do it. And human beings are not alone in this. Did you know that 12 primate species have been observed picking their noses? The most recent example was an aye-aye, filmed taking this pursuit to new extremes with its elongated finger.
Apparently, this multispecies commonality tells us that this “bad habit” may have some functional and even advantageous role. Make of that what you will…
TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:
We’ve put together two dream safaris that will have the worries of reality melting away, as you sink your toes into soft white beach sand or sip on bubbles overlooking the savannah.
Maasai Mara champagne safari – 6 days: This signature Maasai Mara safari offers supreme luxury, a private vehicle, hot-air ballooning and champagne breakfasts. And your huge room has magnificent views as far as the eye can see.
Mozambique beach holiday – 8 days:
SPECIAL OFFER! It’s time to SPOIL YOURSELF and recharge those batteries, and there is no better destination than Mozambique’s pristine beaches and warm ocean. 8 days of exclusive barefoot luxury.
Adventure with AG
Maggie Nunley and her partner are currently on a cross-continental adventure with AG, celebrating their honeymoon. The couple started their adventure in Mgahinga National Park in Uganda and moved on to Maasai Mara National Reserve in Kenya. They are finishing off their African holiday with a trip to Chale Island off Kenya’s Diani Beach to deflate in the warm waters of the Indian Ocean.
The honeymooners’ search for gorillas in Mgahinga proved fruitful, when they came across these majestic giants.
WATCH: What happens when a fearsome honey badger meets a mole snake – a powerful constrictor – on the battle field? A short video shedding light into the tenacity of these two species (02:10). Click here to watch
Dida, a well-known Tsavo tusker, has died of natural causes. Photos courtesy Tsavo Trust / @nicholashaller
Another big tusker has fallen – this time, the matriarch of Tsavo East. Dida, one of the largest female tuskers recorded in Africa, has died of natural causes in Tsavo National Park, as announced by the Tsavo Trust and Kenya Wildlife Services (KWS) this week.
“Dida, the area’s best-loved matriarch and the greatest repository of many decades worth of knowledge, has sadly passed,” announced Tsavo Trust in its statement.
Dida, 60-65 years old at the time of her death, was well known for her tusks that stretched right to the ground – a noteworthy occurrence in a female elephant. She was a popular sighting during Tsavo walking safaris with elephants.
“Dida died naturally of old age; in fact, she surprised us all,” continued Tsavo Trust’s eulogy. “She lived longer than many of us thought she would. To us, allowing an elephant to live its full life is something we are very proud of.”
KWS shared an image on Facebook of Dida’s decomposed remains as discovered by the team. KWS added that “those who got to know her through pictures and videos, as well as those who had the exquisite pleasure of meeting her in person, will remember her”.
Dida was well known for her tusks that stretched right to the ground – a rare occurrence for female elephants. KWS shared an image of Dida’s decomposed remains on Facebook. Photos courtesy Tsavo Trust / @nicholashaller / Keith Hellyer
In its statement on the passing of the Tsavo queen, Tsavo Trust said that Dida was the true embodiment of an iconic cow. “Over the course of her long life, she shepherded her herd through many difficult times. She was the inspiration for documentarians and the pull for tourists.”
While Africa’s last remaining tuskers are under threat, they are given their best chance for survival in protected areas such as Tsavo, where elephants are closely monitored for protection against poaching and injury. Kenya does not permit trophy hunting, unlike countries such as Botswana and Zimbabwe, where Africa’s last giant tuskers are targeted as prized trophies (follow the links for two examples). The Tsavo Trust’s Big Tusker Project and KWS provide aerial and ground support to collect data and respond to imminent threats to the living legends. This ongoing presence is a significant deterrent to poachers and other illegal activity.
Today, nine giant bull tuskers remain in Tsavo. There are also 27 emerging tuskers and three remaining iconic cow tuskers on the Tsavo Trust and KWS Tusker database.
Travel in Africa is about knowing when and where to go, and with whom. A few weeks too early/late or a few kilometres off course, and you could miss the greatest show on Earth. And wouldn’t that be a pity?
Trust & Safety
Guest payments go into a third-party TRUST ACCOUNT - protecting them in the unlikely event of a financial setback on our part. Also, we are members of SATSA who attest to our integrity, legal compliance and financial stability.
We donate a portion of the revenue from every safari sold to carefully selected conservation projects that make a significant difference at ground level.
YOUR safari choice does make a difference - thank you!
Our HUGE news + bongos + extraordinary pics
. Elsewhere we see artificial intelligence software 
Use of rapid response units to de-escalate conflict situations and protect people & elephants
Planting elephant-unpalatable crops to protect AND supplement farmers livelihoods
Photographer of the Year is here!
The real mystery is how they selectively pool nearly 90% of the red blood cells in one place without triggering a clotting cascade, yet they still clot when injured. The physiological explanation may have profoundly practical applications in human medicine.
Dust off your cameras! 
Want to plan your African safari to spot giraffe in the wild? We have 
Christina Hagen, Project Rep for Birdlife South Africa’s African Penguin Conservation project, writes on the 
So where did they go? Well, no one knows for sure, but (somewhat unsurprisingly) their disappearance seems to 
Maggie Nunley and her partner are currently on a cross-continental adventure with AG, celebrating their honeymoon. The couple started their adventure in Mgahinga National Park in Uganda and moved on to Maasai Mara National Reserve in Kenya. They are finishing off their African holiday with a trip to Chale Island off Kenya’s Diani Beach to deflate in the warm waters of the Indian Ocean.
