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Celebrating Africa’s Giraffes

The 21st June marks the summer and winter solstice – depending on where you are in the world – and in the northern hemisphere, it is the longest day of the year. It is then entirely appropriate that the day also marks World Giraffe Day, considering it is the planet’s longest-necked animal.
As one of the most iconic animals around, a giraffe’s sheer size and gracefulness will undoubtedly leave you speechless as it strides over the African plains. With their long legs, beautiful eyes and regal bearing, the giraffe is a remarkable creature that deserves recognition and praise.
On World Giraffe Day, we are celebrating Africa’s giraffes in all their splendour through this gallery of stunning photos, along with some interesting facts. And they’re not just any photos; they’re some of the special photos submitted during our Photographer of the Year 2017 and 2018.
giraffes

?  Giraffe fan in Timbavati Game Reserve, South Africa © Andrea Galli

The name “giraffe” comes from the Arabic word zarāfah (meaning “fast-walker”). In the 1590s the Italian form giraffa arose, and around 1600 the modern English form developed from the French version, girafe.
giraffes

?  A young giraffe is protected from an opportunistic hyena in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Dev Raj

Giraffes are the tallest land animals in the world, with their legs alone being taller than most humans (6ft). Even newborn baby giraffes are taller than most humans.

?  “Wrong place” – an oxpecker feeds on ticks off a giraffe in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Hymakar Valluri

Oxpeckers have an excellent symbiotic relationship with giraffes, keeping them healthy and free from parasites and ticks.
giraffes

?  A tower of giraffes in Olare Motorogi Conservancy, Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Andy Howe

A group of giraffes standing still is called a tower, but once they are moving, they are called a journey.

?  Maternal background in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Andrei Daniel Mihalca

Their young are ‘dropped’ at birth onto the ground and can stand within the first hour of life. By 10-hours-old they can run with the rest of the herd.
giraffes

?  “Looking through a giraffe’s eye” in Nairobi National Park, Kenya © Swati Prasad Siddharth

Giraffes have excellent vision, which is important as they need to keep an eye out for predators that may be lurking by, and effectively maintain herd cohesion.

?  Giraffe walk across the drying lake of Lake Manyara in the Manyara Region, Tanzania © Paul Slyer

Giraffes only drink water every few days, as they get most of their water from the plants they eat.
giraffes

?  A giraffe drinks at a waterhole in Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana © Mike Pepe

Although long, their necks are too short to reach the ground. They have to awkwardly splay their front legs apart to be able to drink or investigate anything on the ground. Their jugular veins have a series of one-way valves which prevent them from getting a rush of blood to their brains when they bend down.

?  “The train” – giraffes make their way past Mount Kenya, Laikipia, Kenya © Charlotte Rhodes

Giraffe’s stand for most of their lives and you won’t often find them lying down. They don’t need a lot of sleep either and seldom sleep for longer than five minutes at a stretch while lying down. Other than that they take short power naps while standing up.
giraffes

?  A giraffe walks across the plains under a stormy sky in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa © Linda Oteri

Giraffes have enormous hearts to pump the blood around their extensive circulation system. On average, their hearts are 60cm long and weigh up to 11.5 kg.

?  Zebras and giraffes in Etosha National Park, Namibia © Andrea Galli

A giraffe’s spots are much like human fingerprints. No two individual giraffes have the same pattern.
giraffes

?  “Tall, dark strangers” in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Andy Howe

Giraffes can move surprisingly quickly and cover vast distances. They have a comfortable ‘cruising speed’ of 16 kph, but can accelerate to 55 kph when the need arises.

?  A giraffe enjoys the new leaves of a knob-thorn tree in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Annemarie du Plessis

Giraffes primarily eat the leaves and twigs of acacia and mimosa trees. They have a long prehensile tongue, and both the tongue and lips are virtually unaffected by the thorny acacia branches.

Gretzky, a desert-adapted lion, shot by Namibian authorities after killing livestock

Desert lion, Gretzky (XPL 99) in Namibia
Gretzky, XPL 99 © Inki Mandt
WARNING: CONTAINS DISTRESSING IMAGE

NAMIBIA: Gretzky (XPL 99) the iconic Huab River male desert-adapted lion, who sired and established the Ugab Pride has been shot and killed by the Ministry of Environment and Tourism (MET) at De Rust farm in Ugabriver.  According to sources, on Monday evening (11th June) he entered a kraal and killed about 25 goats and sheep at de Rust. This was the first known conflict incident he was involved in.

The lion was collared and it is said that his death could have been prevented if the early warning system had been installed in areas where problems with lions have occurred repeatedly. Apparently his skin, and most likely his bones, will be sold on MET’s behalf.

Lion being skinned at de Rust farm in Namibia, graphic content
Gretsky, XPL 99, being skinned at De Rust Farm © Izak Smit

The following is a statement by Izak Smit (Chairman and founder-member of Desert Lions Human Relations Aid Namibia) regarding Gretsky’s death:

“Unbeknown to us, the MET went to De Rust Farm on Friday. Since Gretzky, XPL 99, seemed to have moved off to the East after we successfully drove him off from the kraals at De Rust Thursday night, we did not envisage that he would return so soon.

On Saturday the news reached us that Gretzky had been shot by the MET and that the skin would be sold. We returned to De Rust to find a skinned carcass of the lion. It became clear that he was in a poor condition and emaciated. This explained his relentless returns to the kraals and his breaching of the poorly maintained and dilapidated kraal where he killed about 25 sheep and goats of Mama Rosa on Monday evening. There were two donkeys on the loose (not kraaled despite the imminent threat) this time at the De Rust farm which attracted the lion. He made a few attempts at the kraal and eventually killed a donkey and as a result, was shot not far from the farmhouses. Since he qualifies as a problem-causing animal, the MET and farmers acted within the law by killing it.

The question however remains whether a translocation could not have spared his life and defused the conflict situation. Given the lion’s poor condition he would most probably not have attempted the long way back from the Huab River to the Ugab if he would’ve been relocated back to the Huab. Given the grossly skewed gender ratio of male to female lions, favouring female numbers, and the facts published by the researcher highlighting the fact that 6 of 9 prides are without a resident male (counting Gretzky now upped to 7 prides), clearly a more conservation-friendly approach would have been desirable. Too often the problem is dealt with through the barrel of a gun and one wonders if a recommendation was at all sought from the research or whether any form of impact study to determine the sustainability of such culling was done. Given the fact that no recent statistics or census in this regard is known it seems irresponsible to just kill these animals randomly.

Namibia boasts internationally to have the largest number of free-roaming lions in the world and derives revenue and earns admiration for it but seem to not take the conservation of these animals seriously enough. The so-called early warning and response system remains an empty promise.

This is clear as the Ugab lions have already been collared in January, but clearly, no such warning or support has been given to the De Rust farmers despite the fact that Gretzky’s collar regularly transmits his position. Another international outcry can be expected by concerned international communities and tourists which could and should have been avoided in our opinion.”

Lion collar
The collar that could have saved Gretzky’s life and should have been utilised for early warning purposes © Izak Smit

Gorillas, chimps and lemurs among species in danger of imminent mass extinction

Chimpanzee in forest
Chimpanzees are among the primate species threatened globally by human activities such as habitat destruction and hunting

The majority of primate species, including chimpanzees, gorillas and lemurs, are on the brink of extinction, according to a new study.

Two-thirds of all primate species are found in just four countries – Madagascar, Democratic Republic of Congo (DR Congo), Brazil and Indonesia. Of that, 60% of these primates are Threatened, Endangered, or Critically Endangered according to the IUCN. Researchers have now found that without a concerted global effort, these primate populations will be pushed to breaking point by the end of the century.

An international group of primate researchers analysed and evaluated the situation of many endangered primate species. Using information from World Bank and United Nations databases, the group, led by scientists at Oxford Brookes University, explored likely future scenarios in the four primate-rich nations.

As part of their research, they investigated how human activities would influence the wild primate populations in the future, in terms of habitat destruction, land expansion for agriculture, hunting and the bushmeat trade.

A simulation of agricultural land expansion by the end of the century showed a decline of up to 78% in the distribution areas of many primate species. Assuming a worst-case scenario, by the year 2100, 78% of the primate habitats in Brazil, 72% in Indonesia, 62% in Madagascar and 32% in DR Congo could have disappeared.

“Many iconic species will be lost unless these countries, international organisations, consumer nations and global citizens take immediate action to protect primate populations and their habitats,” said Professor Anna Nekaris, a primate conservation expert at Oxford Brookes University.

“People do not realise that in their daily lives, by consuming less and making more ecologically friendly consumer choices, such as reducing use of single-use plastic and eating food grown locally, they can have direct impacts on tropical forests and the long-term sustainability of biodiversity.”

black-and-white ruffed lemur, Madagascar
Widespread hunting of black-and-white ruffed lemurs in eastern Madagascar has put these primates at increased risk

The study – published in the journal PeerJ – claimed that the biggest threat to primate populations is the expansion of farming, as forests are felled to make way for palm oil and sugarcane productions. In addition, illegal hunting and the bushmeat trade are also major threats, and in DR Congo, hunting has significantly reduced the numbers of gorillas and bonobos.

Unfortunately, many of the areas where primates thrive are also characterised by high levels of poverty, lack of education, political instability and food insecurity – factors that often drive overexploitation of primate-rich habitats.

The research team found that only relatively small fractions of primate habitats in the four target nations are located inside national parks and reserves, meaning many populations are left unprotected.

“More protected areas are needed together with corridors along latitudinal and altitudinal gradients to reduce isolation, along with forest restoration projects that can be beneficial to people’s livelihoods,” said Dr Susan Cheyne, one of the report’s co-authors.

The researchers warned that everyone from national lawmakers to the general public attending safaris focused on great apes has a role to play in preventing a mass extinction. They asked for immediate measures to protect the endangered primate species and supply recommendations for the long-term conservation of primates and to avert primate extinction.

Full report: PeerJ, Estrada A, Garber PA, Mittermeier RA, Wich S, Gouveia S, Dobrovolski R, Nekaris KAI, Nijman V, Rylands AB, Maisels F, Williamson EA, Bicca-Marques J, Fuentes A, Jerusalinsky L, Johnson S, Rodrigues de Melo F, Oliveira L, Schwitzer C, Roos C, Cheyne SM, Martins Kierulff MC, Raharivololona B, Talebi M, Ratsimbazafy J, Supriatna J, Boonratana R, Wedana M, Setiawan A. (2018): Primates in peril: the significance of Brazil, Madagascar, Indonesia and the Democratic Republic of the Congo for global primate conservation

Gorilla in the wild
The threat to primates of exposure to emerging infectious diseases, such as Ebola, resulting from increased contact with human and domesticated animals can result in local primate population declines

Lavish Livingstone

It is not hard to see why Victoria Falls is one of the most spectacular natural sites on the planet and continues to delight and capture the imagination of travellers. Even as early as 1855, David Livingstone described the Falls in a way that reflects this sentiment: “Creeping with awe to the verge, I peered down into a large rent which had been made from bank to bank of the broad Zambezi, and saw that a stream of a thousand yards broad leapt down a hundred feet and then became suddenly compressed into a space of fifteen to twenty yards…the most wonderful sight I had witnessed in Africa.

Fortunately, my family and I were able to experience this stunning sight firsthand, while at the same time exploring the Zambian side of Victoria Falls and the adventure capital of Zambia – Livingstone.

Aerial view of the iconic Victoria Falls – a sight to behold © Sarah Kingdom

Victoria Falls is the result of thousands of years of erosion. In ancient times, the Zambezi River started to wear away the soft sandstone that was present in huge cracks in the hard basalt plateau that it flowed over, eventually creating a series of magnificent and dramatic gorges. In fact, the Victoria Falls has been gradually receding for over 100,000 years, and the zigzagging gorges downstream of the current Falls represent the formation and abandonment of seven past waterfalls.

Today, the Zambezi crashes over a wide cliff, plunging 108 metres into a powerful whirlpool, forming the greatest curtain of falling water on the planet, and transforming the placid river into a ferocious torrent. At the height of the rainy season more than 500 million cubic metres of water per minute surge over the edge of the almost two kilometre-wide Falls and plummet into the gorge below. Columns of spray can be seen from miles away, hence its local name, Mosi-oa-Tunya – “the smoke that thunders”.

Facing the Falls is another sheer wall of rock, crowned with a mist-soaked rainforest. Walking the various paths on the Zambian side through the rainforest, over the Knife-edge Bridge (with its spectacular views of the eastern cataract, main Falls and down the gorge), ducking out to brave the spray and admire the view, you finally make your way around to the point where you can see the Victoria Falls Bridge – the next stop on the itinerary for our family adventure in Zambia.

The ultimate adrenaline activity

Aside from the Victoria Falls lure, there are numerous activities to keep even the most ardent adventure seeker busy.

Jumping off the Victoria Falls Bridge is one of the ultimate adrenaline activities. It is the highest commercial bridge jump in the world and the most spectacular setting. I, of course, was neither brave, nor foolish, enough to throw myself off the bridge, but my 16- and 17-year-old sons had no such qualms. Shearwater offers bungee, bridge swing and ziplining off the iconic bridge, and without any trouble, at all, I convinced my sons to throw themselves into the abyss.

Bungee jumping off Victoria Falls Bridge
Sarah’s son bungee jumping off the Victoria Falls Bridge © Shearwater Victoria Falls

It was only once the boys were fully kitted out in their safety harnesses that my husband voiced what was in both of our minds: “We’ve only got two children; do you think it is wise for them to both be throwing themselves off this bridge simultaneously?”

My heart stopped beating, and I held my breath as I watched them leap into space, free falling for what seemed like forever, before being propelled upwards again, at speed, by the rebound of the giant elastic rope. The looks of excitement on their faces when we were reunited said it all – they were on an adrenaline high for the rest of the day!

I, on the other hand, thought I would ease myself more gracefully into the ‘adrenaline business’ and signed up with Livingstone’s Adventure for an afternoon’s privately guided canoe safari on the Zambezi, upstream from the Falls. We paddled between the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park on the Zambian side and the Zambezi National Park on the Zimbabwean side, gliding past elephants, pods of hippos and a great selection of birdlife. I was a little surprised as to how much we saw given how much noise my husband and younger son were making in the other canoe!

Having been told clearly as we set off that the person in the back seat was in charge of steering and the person in the front was the ‘powerhouse’, there seemed to be a great deal of unnecessary gesticulating and exasperation as the two of them ‘discussed’ who was supposed to be doing what and got progressively further off course! Silence reigned supreme in my canoe, and I was feeling rather smug until I turned around to discover that my eldest son was doing what teenagers do best – having a power nap in the back seat, while I both paddled and steered! The adrenaline rush of the morning bungee jump had taken its toll.

Canoeing down the Zambezi River
Canoeing down the Zambezi River © Livingstone’s Adventure

Our first few nights were spent at Livingstone’s most recently opened Thorntree River Lodge, right on the banks of the Zambezi, with an unbeatable view of the river. There was even a gym with a view for the times when you were feeling guilty about all the excellent food you were eating. I would visit the treadmill every morning while my family were ensconced in bed, coming back with reports of all the birds, monkeys, baboons, giraffes and even elephants I had watched while running to nowhere.

A sensational view of the Zambezi River from deck
A sensational view of the Zambezi River from the deck © Thorntree River Lodge

Thorntree is located in the 66 sq km Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, home not only to Cape buffalo, Burchell’s zebra, Angolan giraffe, elephants, various antelope species, warthog and more, but also to 12 white rhinos. We were able to combine a game drive through this tiny park with the unique opportunity to get up close on foot to a few of the rhinos.

After some searching, we found a rhino mother and her calf and were able to get quite close. The calf, Baby Virginia, in a remarkably playful mood, scampered from side to side and looked longingly in our direction. I’d be willing to bet that if her mum hadn’t been there cramping her style, she would have come even closer and really checked us out!

River rafting adventure

We decided on a family rafting trip the following day with Bundu Adventures, down what is quite probably the wildest commercial white-water in the world. A rafting adventure on the Zambezi River is an adrenaline rush not to be missed. Downstream from the Victoria Falls, the Zambezi River stretches out into deep, zigzagging, torturous channels, gouged out of the surrounding basalt.

The incredible volume of water guarantees an exhilarating day of white-water rafting.

When, at the pre-departure briefing, you hear that there are rapids called ‘The Terminator’, ‘Oblivion’ and ‘Gnashing Jaws of Death’, you have an inkling of what lies ahead!

The day starts with a hike down to the ‘Boiling Pot’, a massive whirlpool at the base of Victoria Falls, where we clambered aboard our raft and set off. The sun was shining, and the water was surprisingly warm. Our guide, nicknamed Black Lizard, knew exactly which line to take through the rapids, usually giving us the option to choose the route based on whether we wanted to ‘flip’ or not… and a few flips were definitely had! Although stretches of the route are classed as high-octane Grade 5, there are several areas of scenic, calm water where we had the chance to swim alongside the raft. The whole day was an unbelievable experience and definitely worth the steep hike out of the Batoka Gorge at the end of the day.

White river rafting on Zambezi River
Sarah and her family rafting the Zambezi rapids © Bundu Adventures

From the tranquillity and luxury of Thorntree River Lodge, we moved closer to town, basing ourselves nearer the action. Maramba River Lodge is a peaceful oasis amongst all the adrenaline that is Livingstone. While close enough to all the action, we still felt part of nature as we enjoyed breakfast on the terrace overlooking a resident pod of hippos, who, complete with numerous babies, kept us thoroughly entertained for hours.

When we weren’t watching the hippos we were amazed by the vervet monkeys which, to avoid the crocodiles, clearly preferred drinking from the lodge’s swimming pool than the river; they didn’t seem remotely bothered by our presence, even bringing their tiny babies with them.

Taking to the skies

If flying over the Falls in a contraption that resembles a couple of garden chairs attached to a beach umbrella, with a lawnmower engine for propulsion, is your cup of tea, then micro lighting is definitely for you!

Sarah’s son about to take off in a microlight © Sarah Kingdom

Seriously though, while a microlight may look as fragile as a dragonfly, it is far stronger than it appears, and in the hands of an experienced pilot, it is one of the unique ways to see one of the seven natural wonders of the world in all its magnificence. My sons took to the skies and loved every minute of the ride!

Not to be outdone by our children in the microlights, my husband and I opted for a spectacular helicopter flight over the Falls, again with Livingstone’s Adventure. Known as the ‘Flight of Angels’, this thrilling flight over the waterfall is a definite bucket-list activity. Not only did we have the luxury of a private flight just for the two of us, but the views were breathtaking, offering an entirely new perspective on the Falls and the landscape below.

Livingstone
Helicopter flip over the idyllic Victoria Falls, known as the ‘Flight of Angels’ © Livingstone’s Adventure

Luxurious Livingstone

Having dispatched our children back to boarding school at the end of the school holidays, my husband and I returned to Livingstone a month later to sample a little more of the serious luxury that is on offer, and I can confidently say I have never been so pampered in all my life! It is amazing how sophisticated the northern banks of the Zambezi have become. Livingstone, once the ‘poor relative’ in the Victoria Falls experience, has undergone an incredible transformation in recent years, and now has some truly special places to stay and activities to do.

This time our first port of call was the Stanley Safari Lodge. The lodge has a very different viewpoint and perspective from many of the other lodges in the area, most of which are built right on the riverbanks. Here you are perched on a hill overlooking the unspoilt bush, with snaking stretches of the Zambezi River and the spray of the Victoria Falls visible in the distance.

We arrived in a deluge of rain and had to make a mad dash from the car to the welcoming shelter of the dining room – this rain was to continue for the rest of the night, and indeed the rest of our visit! A thunderstorm during dinner provided a spectacular display of lightning across the border in Zimbabwe, and the reflection of the lightning in the swimming pool, which we could see from our table, was incredible.

Livingstone
An unforgettable outside dinner at sunset © Robin Pope Safaris / Stanley Safari Lodge

A cruise down the Zambezi

A visit to Livingstone would not be complete without a river cruise on the Zambezi River, preferably at sunset. We chose the African Queen, and even though the sun was hiding behind the clouds as we set off (and it didn’t look like we were destined to get a very photogenic sunset) we enjoyed ourselves nonetheless; no doubt aided by the gin & tonics and tasty snacks brought to us regularly by our ever-attentive waitress. We travelled at a stately speed up the Zambezi above the Falls, catching glimpses of hippos and crocs, and just in the nick of time, the clouds cleared temporarily, and we got our sunset after all.

From left: 1) A sunset cruise is a tremendous photogenic activity; 2) Sit back, relax and enjoy a drink in the lounge area. Both photos © Livingstone’s Adventure

It was time to move lodges, this time to Royal Chundu Island Lodge, located 60km from Livingstone, upstream of the Falls. From the minute we arrived at Royal Chundu, we knew we were in paradise! Having relied on Google maps to get us there, we had taken a very circuitous route and were feeling somewhat flustered by the time we arrived.

Aerial view of the accommodation on the banks of the Zambezi River
Aerial view of Royal Chundu’s accommodation on the banks of the Zambezi River © Royal Chundu Island Lodge

Though all that fell away as we took the first sip of our welcome cocktail in the main lodge, and then stepped aboard the boat that would take us across to our room on the island. After unpacking and enjoying a delicious lunch, we had to temporarily press pause on our island retreat and head back into town for dinner aboard the Royal Livingstone Express.

Livingstone
The Royal Livingstone Express crossing the Victoria Falls Bridge © Bushtracks Africa

Dinner on a steam train

The Royal Livingstone Express is a unique and different experience; a trip back in time to the luxury and grandeur of the bygone era of steam trains. An actual red carpet welcomed us, and we boarded the train with a glass of wine in hand. Wandering through the fabulously restored and renovated carriages, we chose a seat in the elegant lounge car.

The train set off, and we nibbled on smoked salmon canapés as local fundi, Peter Jones, gave a passionate, fascinating, humorous and informative talk about the history of the train, the bridge, Livingstone and Zambia in general. Meanwhile, the train was making its way to the Victoria Falls Bridge, where we alighted to view the Falls, and those who were interested joined the driver in his compartment to learn more about the inner workings of the engine itself. The driver showed us how to stoke the engine, even allowing us to pull the cord that sounded the whistle – which had my husband grinning like a schoolboy! Once back on board, we were treated to a delicious five-course dinner in the dining car as we headed off into the night.

Livingstone
Clockwise from left: 1) Loco number 156, built in 1922, was used to pull logging carriages from the Mulobezi forests; 2) A fantastic view of the Victoria Falls from one of the steam train’s windows; 3) The charming dining car. All photos © Bushtracks Africa

Arriving back at Royal Chundu long after the rest of the lodge was asleep, we boarded the boat again for a short, moonlit boat ride upstream to the island. We reached our room to find a freshly drawn bath in the tub on the verandah, with bubbles that must have been at least a metre high! Never one to turn down a bath, I hopped in and was serenaded by a chorus of frogs. I sat there watching a sky full of brilliant stars and then as if on cue, I saw a shooting star as the lions started roaring in the park across the next channel of water. An absolutely perfect moment.

The next morning a female finfoot accompanied our early morning coffee. As we sat on our verandah watching her across the water, she was joined by a male, and not long after that, we witnessed what was either a courting ritual or perhaps just a marital spat!

Departing Royal Chundu, we headed to Islands of Siankaba, a lodge built on two private islands in the middle of the Zambezi. The wooden chalets are built on stilts and perched on the river’s edge, with verandahs jutting out over the water, and are all interlinked by a series of raised wooden walkways – something that would not have looked out of place in the Swiss Family Robinson or Pirates of the Caribbean. The walkways and suspension bridges that linked the two islands together gave an air of adventure from the moment we arrived.

Livingstone
Luxury chalets built on stilts on the river’s edge © Islands of Siankaba

The rain continued and the sound of the river rushing and swirling beneath our room and the drops of rain falling on the canvas roof at night had us feeling cosy and warm, tucked up in bed. The next morning we sat on our verandah, enjoying our coffee while watching forty or fifty blue-cheeked bee-eaters, and just as many wire-tailed swallows, swooping over the water. A Cape clawless otter appeared, swimming around the partially submerged small islands in front of our room. Walking to breakfast, we found discarded crab carcasses on the bridges, left behind by giant kingfishers who had eaten their breakfast long before we were heading to ours.

Later that day we headed upstream in a boat to a tiny island, where we got off to take a closer look at the southern red bishop birds. We had the island all to ourselves and were surrounded by red bishops courting, mating and building nests. So unaccustomed were they to human presence, that the birds allowed us to get right up close and we had some unparalleled viewing.

For a brief change of scenery, I headed back into Livingstone town and through to the famous Victoria Falls Bridge to have a good behind-the-scenes look. Even though he never visited the Falls and died before the construction of the bridge began, Cecil Rhodes was presented with the plans of the proposed Zambezi River crossing, and he apparently drew a line across the Boiling Pot (the point directly below the Falls where the water exits from the chasm of the Victoria Falls) and declared that this was where he wanted the bridge.

He envisaged the spray of the Falls landing on the trains as they crossed the bridge, and indeed for many years after the completion of the bridge, trains used to stop for a few minutes at its centre so that his dream could be realised… exactly what we had done a few nights earlier on the Royal Livingstone Express. Attached to the bridge by a series of cables and carabiners, I walked beneath it, with my guide, on the original catwalk, while learning a little more about its construction and admiring the fabulous views both up and down the gorges.

Livingstone
Guests enjoy a luxurious massage on the banks of the Zambezi River © The Royal Livingstone

After our stay at Islands of Siankaba, our last stop was the Royal Livingstone Hotel. We only had one night here, but we certainly made the most of our visit. Just after arrival, we were ushered off to an extravagant high tea, where we were each presented with a three-tiered cake stand loaded with goodies, accompanied by tea and, of course, some sparkling wine. Having missed lunch, we savoured our high tea, while watching zebras grazing by the pool. Just as I swigged the last of my bubbly, nibbled my last morsel of cucumber sandwich, and decided there was no way I was going to fit in any dinner, I was whisked off to a luxurious massage in a gazebo on the banks of the Zambezi.

On our last morning in Livingstone, we forced ourselves to endure a delicious champagne breakfast with all the trimming on the banks of the Zambezi while watching the spray of the Falls. We followed this with a last-minute visit to the Falls themselves. The rain-swollen Zambezi was chocolate in colour, and the Falls were pumping, it was hard to drag ourselves away from the mesmerising sight of the sheer volume of water that was pouring over the edge. But sadly, all good things must come to an end.

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR, SARAH KINGDOM


Travel writer, mountain guide and mother, Sarah Kingdom was born and brought up in Sydney, Australia. Coming to Africa at 21, she fell in love with the continent and stayed. Sarah guides on Kilimanjaro several times a year and has lost count of how many times she has stood on the roof of Africa. She has climbed and guided throughout the Himalayas and now spends most of her time visiting remote places in Africa. When she is not travelling, she runs a cattle ranch in Zambia with her husband.

 

 

 

Mysterious deaths of ancient baobabs leave scientists baffled

Chapman's baobab
Chapman’s baobab, before it fell in 2016 © Christian Boix
DECODING SCIENCE POST by AG Editorial

A new survey of baobab trees across several countries in southern Africa has found that most of the oldest and largest of trees have died, or significantly deteriorated, over the last 12 years. The cause is still unclear, but researchers speculate that climate change may be an underlying factor.

Adrian Patrut, a Romanian professor of inorganic and radiochemistry, and colleagues used radiocarbon dating to analyse more than 60 of the largest and oldest baobab trees in Africa to try to find out how the trees could grow so large and so old. During the survey, which started in 2005, the researchers noticed that nine of the 13 oldest, and five of the six largest baobabs had died, or at least their oldest parts had collapsed and died during the study period.

These included well-known trees that have become famous for their size or natural architecture, like the Sunland baobab (that fell in 2017), the sacred Panke baobab (around 2,500 years old when it died in 2011, according to Patrut), Namibia’s ‘Grootboom’ (thought to be at least 1,275 years old and fell in 2014), and Botswana’s Chapman’s baobab (that collapsed in 2016).

“We report that nine of the 13 oldest… individuals have died, or at least their oldest parts/stems have collapsed and died, over the past 12 years,” the team said, describing “an event of an unprecedented magnitude”.

Africa Geographic Travel

Published in the journal Nature Plants this week, the survey suggests that climate change may be affecting the ability of the trees to survive, though more research is needed to understand the exact cause.

“We suspect that the demise of monumental baobabs may be associated at least in part with significant modifications of climate conditions that affect southern Africa in particular,” said Patrut and his team. “However, further research is necessary to support or refute this supposition.”

Platland baobab
The Platland baobab after the first two splits of May and August 2016. Image source: Adrian Patrut

The team added that an epidemic did not cause the deaths and “there were no signs of disease”.

Baobabs are notoriously tricky to date because their strange shape and growth patterns can complicate traditional tree-ring analysis — and Patrut’s method drew some controversy from other baobab ecologists. But his findings about the deaths came as no surprise: Anecdotal evidence of a die-off was already spreading in the baobab research community.

Baobabs have a unique ring-shaped structure comprising multiple stems and trunks, often of different ages. Baobabs will start growing as a single trunk but over time, develop others that may fuse to form a closed circle, or remain open. The researchers found that in some cases, all the trunks had died suddenly at the same time.

Full report: Nature Plants, Adrian Patrut, Stephan Woodborne, Roxana T. Patrut, Laszlo Rakosy, Daniel A. Lowy, Grant Hall & Karl F. von Reden (2018): The demise of the largest and oldest African baobabs

Further readings about baobabs:

A brief history of Chapman’s baobab

9 Fascinating baobab tree facts

A baobab tree in Tarangire National Park, Tanzania © Christian Boix
A baobab tree in Tarangire National Park, Tanzania © Christian Boix

Kruger lion hunted – what we know

African male lion, wildlife
Stock photo of a lion (not the lion in question)
Opinion post: Written by Simon Espley, CEO of Africa Geographic

A large male lion was trophy hunted on Thursday morning last week in the Greater Kruger National Park. We have confirmed by way of personal discussion with the warden of the area that the hunter is from the United States and that he paid in the region of R1-million to kill this wild lion. The hunter’s name is unknown at this stage. Wildlife activists claim that the lion was a pride male lion they call Skye, but this fact is yet to be confirmed.

The lion was killed in Umbabat Private Nature Reserve, which forms part of the Associated Private Nature Reserves (APNR), and falls within the Greater Kruger National Park. There are no fences between the private reserves and the Kruger National Park. Umbabat, in turn, is made up of many smaller private properties.

It’s highly likely that this tragic incident will justifiably trigger an emotional tsunami, with substantial consequences for Umbabat, neighbouring private game reserves and possibly even the entire Greater Kruger. At the time of writing, there is already much speculation and finger-pointing within Umbabat, APNR/Greater Kruger and amongst the broader public. Members of Umbabat are meeting today in Johannesburg to discuss the situation.

I tried to determine the facts as they currently stand and can report as follows, after a lengthy telephone discussion this morning with Umbabat warden Bryan Havemann, and with representatives of other affected parties. Havemann provided all documentation requested by me. Africa Geographic will keep you advised of further developments, as we become aware of them.

1. Was the hunt legal?

Havemann: Yes. The authority to hunt the lion was provided in a quota letter issued on 21 February 2018 by the relevant governing authority – Mpumalanga Tourism and Parks Agency. The quota request by Mbabat was initially turned down, due to inadequate information being provided, but subsequently approved once the outstanding information was provided. Information published by wildlife activists this morning via a South African news platform was based on outdated information and is not accurate.

2. Was the lion baited?

Havemann: Yes, the lion was baited. We baited the lion in order to make sure that we did not shoot lions that are prohibited in terms of the lion hunting protocol (see below).

3. How old was the lion?

Havemann: The lion met the requirements of the Greater Kruger lion hunting protocol of April 2018. These requirements are:

i) Older than 6 years;

ii) Reasonable steps are taken to ensure that no pride males under 8 years old are selected;

iii) Consultation with lodges and landowners in the area;

iv) Males cannot be shot if in the presence of females;

v) No appearance of the recessive leucistic gene (‘white lions’).

4. Was the lion killed the lion referred to as ‘Skye’?

Havemann: I am unsure of the exact identity of the lion named ‘Skye’, as we do not name lions. We met with the local landowners and lodges during the run-up to the hunt, as required by the lion hunting protocol, who provided photos of a male lion they have named ‘Skye’ (because he has a scar under his eye). We undertook to ensure that this named lion was not the target lion, and made sure that the Umbabat professional hunter was aware that this lion was out of bounds. A report by Umbabat chairman Lenny Willson described the lion killed by the hunter as follows: no facial scarring, age 8.5 to 9 years old, worn down and broken teeth, prominent spine, no appearance of ‘white lion’ gene, no other lions in the area before or after the hunt.

5. Why does Umbabat hunt lions and other species?

Havemann: We permit hunting in order to pay for ongoing reserve management and security costs. There is no profit in this, we try to cover costs. The landowners also pay levies, which provide the balance of the funds required to keep the private land available for the good of wildlife conservation. We only have one commercial lodge amongst our landowners, and so cannot reply on tourism as a major funder. We would be happy to stop trophy hunting if third parties would provide the necessary funding.

Final comment from Simon Espley, CEO of Africa Geographic

Humankind has surely evolved sufficiently to reject the fetish of a few wealthy people for killing iconic animals for fun. It is time to get rid of trophy hunting of these icons as a conservation funding mechanism where there are alternatives, and I am totally convinced that the intellectual and financial resource at Umbabat and other nearby private game reserves could solve this riddle if they applied their minds and thought outside of traditional methods. I know that many of the Umbabat owners already do feel this way.

If alternative solutions are not found, there is a real risk that the APNR will start breaking up, and that fences will come back up in places. The anger generated amongst the social media-empowered general public, driven by activists who value impact over fact, is a toxic cocktail that will drive change – regardless of the consequences.

This will be a journey for Umbabat, not an event. It’s time to start that journey.

Zambia’s hippo cull: Valid concerns and questions from those affected

Hippo carcass with two trophy hunters
© Umlilo Safaris
Opinion post: Written by Simon Espley, CEO of Africa Geographic

A showdown is looming between tourism operators in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park and trophy hunters, in the wake of the Zambian government’s decision to cull up to 2,000 hippos over a 5-year period in Luangwa Valley, across the river from the tourism lodges – and to award the culling contract to a South African trophy hunting outfit Umlilo Safaris (so much for the empowerment of local people and generation of revenue that stays in Zambia).

The tourism operators in South Luangwa have built their industry and a hard-earned reputation for authentic camps and walking safaris over many years – and this latest blow could conceivably impact their livelihoods, on the employment of local people and on the sustainability of the industry. Luangwa Valley is the home of the walking safari experience, a reputation worth defending. They have questions and very valid concerns, but it would appear that these are falling on deaf ears.

Contextual reality check:

1. Tourism in Luangwa Valley brings in about US$27m per annum in revenues and employs approximately 1,200 people directly and indirectly. Revenue from trophy hunting amounts to approximately US$200,000 per concession, and there are two such concessions nearby the main tourism areas. Employment figures for trophy hunting are unknown.

2. The hippo is classified as “vulnerable” on IUCN’s Red List of threatened species. There is an estimated population throughout Africa of only 115-130,000 individuals, with a “downward shift”. IUCN: “The conservation status of Hippos remains precarious and the need for direct conservation action to protect Hippos and Hippo habitat across their range is a priority”;

3. The Zambian authorities have justified this culling exercise on the basis that this will prevent anthrax outbreaks among animals due to high populations of hippo. And yet, in this research paper by their very own Chansa Chomba from the Department of Research, Planning, Information and Veterinary Services at Zambia Wildlife Authority, advises that culling is not an effective population control strategy. His research goes on to advise that culling:

i) removes excess males and frees resources for the remaining female individuals, leading to increased births and facilitating rather than suppressing population growth rate;

ii) did not significantly affect population size and density.

Comment from tourism operators in the area:

Opening statement: “If culling for meat and revenue could be done without negatively affecting tourism in the area, and the hippo population would not be jeopardised, many of us here would support it, as it could provide protein and additional revenues for local people… and that would help to secure the future of conservation.”

Concerns and questions:

1. This five-year cull is in the main tourist area of South Luangwa, where ease of road and air access was built on the backs of photographic tourism investment and development from the safari lodges, operators, NGOs and charities. Now, these people are going to come and take advantage of that, and in the process, threaten the survival of the very industry that created a nice environment for them!

2. This the reality of hippo hunts:

Umlilo Safaris offers clients five hippos per trip, during our prime tourism season of June to October, from now until 2022.

Relatively unskilled trophy hunting clients will be shooting hippos in the river opposite the busiest game viewing area in Zambia. The hunts will take place in the day time when the hippos are in the water. We know that killing a hippo in water often takes 6 or 7 shots and that the carcass will then sink before resurfacing later. The carcass will then be hooked, dragged to the shoreline, butchered and dried on drying racks.

Photographic tourists will boycott the area and instead go to countries that do not also host trophy hunts. This will lead to tourism camps shutting down, jobs being lost and hard-earned conservation successes coming under threat.

3. How will the hippo meat be cured? Usually, this is done by drying it, using the traditional method of fires made from mopane wood. It would appear that Umlilo Safaris has been given permission to fell trees in order to cure the hippo meat. We have a continuous battle on our hands to save the woodland and habitat that supports such amazing wildlife. Local people are not allowed to cut these trees, so why should trophy hunting be allowed to cut down trees? Has a permit been issued by the Forestry Department or Community Resource Board? So many elephants are killed by trophy hunters on the basis that they push over trees and are a ‘threat to biodiversity’ – it seems hypocritical that trophy hunters now want to cut down trees to cure hippo meat.

4. Predators will be lured out of the park by the smell of dead hippos, and become ‘fair game’ for the trophy hunting concessionaires that operate the concession that Umlilo Safaris is using to kill hippos. These legally chosen concessionaires are also not happy to have these fly-by-night hunters, operating in what they were promised was their exclusive hunting area. True fair chase hunters have the good sense to stay away from the photographic tourism area and conduct their hunts away from the river and the park.

Local tourism operators are not the only people with questions and concerns:

1. In a statement to Zambia’s Lusaka Times, Peter Sinkamba, President of the Zambian Green Party, said “Culling of wildlife is not an option. It is a primitive wildlife conservation strategy… What is more appalling is that the Luangwa Valley is not overpopulated as they claim. The hippo population in that conservation area has dwindled by about 14-20% in the last 20 years, motivated by mainly poor conservation policies, strategies and allocation of financial and human resources. The culling policy is motivated by pure greed.”

2. Richard Kock, professor of wildlife health at the Royal Veterinary College, speaking to the UK’s Independent newspaper, says he believes the Zambian government have yet to provide adequate data to justify the ‘cull’. “There’s no doubt that hippos can build up numbers until there really are probably too many for the ecosystem… and so I think anthrax may well be a factor in controlling their populations, and it may benefit the environment because they will consume large quantities of herbage, and obviously that will affect other species.”

3. Will Travers, chief executive of Born Free, believes that the government has failed to provide sufficient evidence to demonstrate any overpopulation of hippos in the Luangwa River, or to make public any data that justifies the cull. “They are, apparently, using the same flawed rationale for the slaughter as last time – a preventative measure to avoid a future outbreak of anthrax, combined with an assertion that low rainfall will exacerbate the situation… They also appear not to have informed key stakeholders in the Luangwa Valley… The negative consequences for thousands of hippo and Zambia’s reputation as a wildlife tourism destination cannot be underestimated.”

My final thoughts

This hippo cull strategy has the stench of underhand dealings, and good people on the ground in Zambia will be negatively affected if the decision to cull up to 2,000 hippos over five years goes ahead.

There is no question in my mind that African governments should determine their own conservation strategies, as unpopular as some of their decisions may be for members of the public. And I also have no doubt that international pressure groups and animal rights activists do not have the granular understanding to make these decisions on behalf of Africa. They play an important whistle-blower role, but that is where it stops. And neither should the trophy hunting industry be permitted to hold sway over conservation decisions like these. They do not have the big picture in mind, and their industry is too riddled with corruption and morally-bankrupt operators to be taken seriously.

That said, our African governments have to finally understand that these decisions are not made in an information vacuum (as they were before the advent of the Internet and social media). They surely have to grasp the reality that the fragile tourism industry is Africa’s great long term sustainable economic hope, and that lack of transparency and proper scientific justification for controversial decisions will harm this industry, and ultimately our own people.

Zambia’s Luangwa Valley is an absolutely amazing tourism destination, and hopefully good will come of this negative publicity. A luta continua!

There’s a Leopard in my Garden

One of the most popular requests from safari tourists to their guides is to see leopards. This is a tough task, even for the most experienced of guides, due to the elusive and cunning nature of these big cats. But there is a town called Hoedspruit, near the Kruger National Park in the Limpopo Province of South Africa, where having leopards in your garden is, well, the norm.

The residents of Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate (HWE), a fenced lifestyle ‘suburb’ of this bushveld town, are blessed with regular sightings of leopards. Fences pose no problems for these lithe felines as they come and go at will.

HWE is 680ha in extent, with half consisting of undeveloped bushveld and the other half consisting of residential homes. Various species such as impalas, giraffes, wildebeest, zebras and warthogs call this estate home, as well as a host of smaller species such as mongooses, genets, porcupines and civets. And then there are the predators that come and go at will, often making use of holes dug under the fence by aardvarks and warthogs.

Left: Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate homes, from the perspective of a drone © Jurie Moolman; Right: Google Earth image of Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate 

We asked HWE resident and confessed leopard junkie Villiers Steyn a few questions about what it is like to live with leopards in your garden:

Africa Geographic (AG): Let’s get to the scary bit first, have people been attacked by leopards in HWE, and how do you stay safe while out walking in the estate?
Villiers Steyn (VS): I’m not aware of any attacks on humans. They have, however, surprised quite a few residents by suddenly appearing in their gardens. My wife and I have been lucky enough to encounter them on foot, and I’ve even cycled past one as well. I believe it’s perfectly safe to walk around the estate during the day, but I wouldn’t recommend walking alone at night.

A relaxed Big Boy strolls confidently across a road
A relaxed Big Boy strolls confidently across a road in the estate. He used to drink water from the author’s birdbath and was regularly seen strolling amongst houses on the estate © Villiers Steyn

AG: Based on anecdotal evidence, leopards seem to target and eat dogs – how do you keep your pet dogs safe?
VS: Leopards have attacked and eaten dogs on the estate. It infrequently happens though because residents are continually being made aware of the risks in estate correspondence. The rule is simple – keep your dogs inside the house when it’s dark; otherwise, they might become leopard food. In fact, we don’t even like leaving our dogs alone outside during the twilight hours, because leopards are very active around sunrise and sunset.
Leopards easily jump over the small fences to get into gardens and wouldn’t hesitate to grab Fluffy where he’s taking a nap on the porch! Dogs are not allowed off the lead when they’re being walked in the estate and walking them at night is looking for trouble…

AG: How often do residents report leopard sightings and are the leopards relaxed with humans in the vicinity?
VS: When we first moved to HWE in 2013, there was a massive male called Big Boy that was frequently seen by residents. My wife and I would jump in the car every time we heard monkey or impala alarm calls nearby our house, and more often than not, we’d find Big Boy. He would casually walk between houses and cars, and even drink from our birdbath!

Thanks to spot pattern analysis, a local guide identified him as a leopard that grew up in the nearby Thornybush Game Reserve, hence his relaxed demeanour around vehicles and people. Unfortunately, he disappeared in mid-2015, perhaps due to a territorial dispute with another leopard, Houdini, who took over as the dominant male in the area.
The rest of the leopards that frequent HWE are much shyer than Big Boy. They are hardly ever seen during the day, but if you’re lucky to catch a glimpse of one of them at night, they’re less likely to dash away into the thickets as they do when the sun is up. Sometimes months go by with no leopard sightings, but recently a female leopard, Kulua, and her two cubs were seen in the same area six days in a row. She must have had a kill in the vicinity.

Clockwise from top left: 1) Houdini is a massive male leopard, and is currently the dominant male frequenting the estate; 2) A female leopard named Nsuku, regularly seen on the estate; 3) A young male leopard named Ntambo; 4) A female leopard named Kulua enters the estate via a hole under the boundary fence. All photos © Villiers Steyn

AG: How many leopards frequent HWE, and do you have any population dynamics?
VS: Over the past five years, I’ve identified 15 individual leopards on HWE – four adult males, three adult females, seven cubs and one unknown individual. Some have come and gone, and others have successfully defended their territories here for many years.

The leopards certainly don’t live on the estate permanently. Their movements take them beyond the estate boundaries into neighbouring game farms and the Greater Kruger National Park.

Currently, HWE is dominated by one massive male we call Houdini. Two adult females, Kulua and Nsuku, are also regularly captured on camera traps, and both have cubs. Kulua’s two cubs are close to a year old, and Nsuku’s cub is closer to six months old. It is difficult to age the cubs because we hardly ever see them and they seldom show up on camera trap photos. We do know that one of Kulua’s current litter is a male. Her previous litter consisted of a male and a female (Mafu and Mila), both of which survived to adulthood, and Nsuku raised a male cub (Ntambo) successfully in her previous litter.

A leopard feeds on a large kudu bull on the estate
A leopard feeds on a large kudu bull on the estate © Villiers Steyn

AG: What species do the leopards prey on in the estate?
VS: Much of the hunting happens at night, so it’s tough to say precisely what the leopards prey on in the estate. I have, however, followed their tracks and drag marks to carcasses of duikers, waterbuck calves and impalas. I’m sure they also catch a lot of small things like francolins and guineafowl, of which there is no shortage. Interestingly, the leopards don’t hoist the carcasses up into the trees like they usually do – perhaps this is due to the low number of competitive predators and plenty of dense shrubs to hide the carcasses under.

AG: How do leopards enter or leave the estate, bearing in mind the electrified game fencing?
VS: The leopards crawl underneath the fence at various points along the boundary where warthogs and other creatures have dug holes. These become little highways in and out of the estate for a variety of creatures – including genets, civets, honey badgers, porcupines, spotted hyenas and even wild dogs and aardvarks! I often place camera traps at these points.

Camera trap images: Other wildlife seen on the estate includes civets, aardvark, wild dogs, hyenas, honey badgers and porcupines © Villiers Steyn
Africa Geographic Travel

AG: Are HWE residents proud of having leopards in the estate?
VS: Yes! The residents are very proud of having leopards on the estate and show incredible interest in the camera trap photos and videos I post and the short reports I write from time to time. Some of us are members of WhatsApp groups that alert each other when we see one so that everyone can come out and enjoy the sighting.

AG: Concluding thoughts?
VS: Many people think it’s “strange” or “amazing” that leopards and so many other beautiful creatures live amongst people here in the estate. If you ask me, it’s perfectly normal. I don’t look at it as animals living in a suburb, but rather as humans that live in the bush. Their numbers and behaviour here in the estate are probably very similar to what it is in the neighbouring reserves. The only difference is, we’ve built our houses in their home ranges. 

ABOUT VILLIERS STEYN


After completing a diploma in Nature Conservation, Villiers Steyn studied the movement patterns of leopards in Botswana’s Mashatu Game Reserve as part of his Master’s Degree. Following that, he crisscrossed southern Africa for six years as a freelance travel writer for some of South Africa’s leading travel magazines, focusing primarily on wilderness areas. Today he’s based in Hoedspruit where he makes a living as a professional photographer and photographic safari guide. Follow Villiers as the Safari Expert on Instagram and Youtube.

Mountain gorilla numbers surpass 1,000

Mountain gorillas in Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda
Mountain gorillas in Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda © Stuart Sinclair

Media release from Greater Virunga Transboundary Collaboration

The population of mountain gorillas, one of the world’s most endangered species, is on the rise after a population survey was performed in the transboundary Virunga Massif, one of the two remaining areas where this critically endangered great ape is still found.

The survey results revealed that numbers have increased to 604 from an estimated 480 in 2010, including 41 social groups and 14 solitary males in the transboundary area. When combined with the published figure of 400 mountain gorillas from Bwindi Impenetrable National Park (where the rest of the sub-species is found), the total population sits at an estimated 1,004 mountain gorillas.

The survey was conducted by the Protected Area Authorities of DRC, Rwanda, and Uganda under the transboundary framework of the Greater Virunga Transboundary Collaboration, and supported by many partners and various donors.

As in the previous mountain gorilla census in 2010, survey teams walked pre-determined “recces” (reconnaissance trails) ensuring thorough coverage of all forest areas to sweep the Virunga Massif from the southwest to northeast and search for signs of gorillas, other key mammals, and illegal activities.

When fresh gorilla signs were detected, the teams followed the gorilla trail to locate three recent night nest sites. At each of these nest sites, the teams collected faecal samples that were analysed genetically to determine individual genotypes. The survey teams also collected data on signs and sightings of select mammals, such as elephants, and illegal activities, such as snares. While exercising caution due to the limitations of the study, there were no indications of declines in populations for the select mammals surveyed, including elephants, since 2010.

Young mountain gorilla juvenile reaching out in Virunga National Park, DRC
A young mountain gorilla juvenile reaching out in Virunga National Park, DRC © Bobby-Jo Photography

The increase in mountain gorillas inhabiting the Virunga Massif is attributed to the effectiveness of conservation policies, strategies, notably regulated tourism, daily protection and veterinary interventions, intensive law enforcement, community conservation projects, and transboundary collaboration among government institutions and NGO actors. Further, these results are a testament to the tireless effort of the rangers and trackers who daily protect and monitor mountain gorillas and their habitat, including those that have been killed in the line of duty.

It is also important to recognise the role of the communities that live in close proximity to these national parks who co-exist with mountain gorillas and contribute to conservation efforts.

Despite the rise in numbers, the two populations of mountain gorillas still remain relatively small and vulnerable to a potential rapid decline due to factors such as their limited habitat, climate change, dependency on resources in the park by people, and the risk of disease transmission.

Mountain gorilla family in Virunga National Park, DRC
A family portrait of the Rugendo mountain gorilla family in Virunga National Park, DRC © Bobby-Jo Photography

The black & white of African wildlife explained

King cheetah, pseudo-melanism in animals
A ‘king’ cheetah’s colouring is an example of pseudo-melanism, also called abundism. This photo is of a zoo animal. © Brad Francis/Flickr
DECODING SCIENCE POST by AG Editorial

Every now and then nature experiments by producing a black or white mutation of an animal or bird that is otherwise normally coloured. There is something magical about seeing a white lion, black leopard or ‘king’ cheetah in the wild, as if it were a spiritual shadow of the species, a form of higher being.

Note that these white or black individuals are not a separate species or subspecies of the normally-coloured animal – they are purely a genetic anomaly. While the occurrence is very rare in the wild, and worth celebrating when seen, claims that ‘white lions’ (for example) are a rare species are incorrect and misleading.

white lion cub
A white lion cub © Simon Vegter/Wild Wings Safaris

When it comes to white lions (who are technically leucistic), the white lion gene lives on in the tawny lion population in the Timbavati area of the Greater Kruger National Park, and white individuals will probably keep popping up sporadically – for as long as the tawny lion population there remains stable. Attempts to breed white lions in captivity to ‘save the species’ are misguided and usually all about money – because white lions are popular as caged exhibits and hunting trophies.

The process of captive breeding of white lions by isolating the gene and producing more white lions than nature would usually produce leads to inbreeding and weak/genetically compromised individual animals that are not suitable for introduction into wild lion populations.

white lion cub sitting with normal-coloured siblings
A white lion cub sits among its normal-coloured siblings © Simon Vegter/Wild Wings Safaris
Africa Geographic Travel
Let’s understand the phenomena at play here, in layman’s terms:
Albinism

Albinism (white) results in whitish-pink fur or feathers, and eyes with reddish pupils (the diagnostics trait). It is only passed on if both parents transfer it to their offspring.

Albinism is caused by a genetic mutation causing an absence of tyrosinase in pigment cells. Tyrosinase is a copper-containing enzyme that is needed to produce melanin, the pigment responsible for blacks, grays, browns, rusty browns, and pale yellows of feathers and body parts – and so albinos cannot produce any melanin at all and thus lack any colouration that is caused by the pigment. Eye colour is also produced by melanin, and so albinos have reddish/pink eyes because the blood vessels show through, not being masked by the darker melanin usually present in eyes. Albinism occurs in many species, including humans.

Albino civet at waterhole
A rare albino African civet © Shenton Safaris
Leucism

Leucism (white) results in a partial or total loss of pigmentation – resulting in patches of white colouring in fur or feathers. Leucines, unlike albino animals, have normal-coloured eyes, and may or may not have normally coloured legs and beaks. Leucistic animals and birds do produce melanin (unlike albinos which produce no melanin), BUT the condition prevents melanin from being deposited in the fur or feathers.

So, melanin would be present in the skin, beak, legs, eyes and other body parts of a leucistic bird, for example. The white lions referred to above are also another example of leucism.

White baboon in Arusha, Tanzania
A leucistic baboon © Tracey Sawyer – read more about this sighting here
Melanism

Melanism (black) results in an excess of dark pigmentation. Melanism is found in many different species, including amphibians, reptiles, and mammals – but not in humans. Pseudo-melanism, also called abundism, is another variant of pigmentation, characterised by dark spots or enlarged stripes, which cover a large part of the body of the animal, making it appear melanistic. One example of abundism is the ‘king’ cheetah.

All three conditions above are hereditary but can skip generations. The condition can be passed on by generations that show no visual signs of the condition.

baby pseudo-melanistic zebra, Okavango Delta, Botswana
A baby zebra with what appears to be abundism (pseudo-melanism) © Michael Fitt

The Turkana people – Nomadic by Nature

Joe Bürgi and his wife, Ursula, are perennial travellers and photographers from Switzerland. Their passion for the exploration of off-the-beaten-track destinations has allowed them to compile a catalogue of unique photos that tell inspiring, eye-opening stories of remote tribes that are mostly unknown to the rest of the world.
In this gallery, we showcase a series of photos of the nomadic, pastoralist Turkana tribe in northern Kenya. These photos are a true reflection of the raw, harsh environment that they inhabit, and the pride that they possess is a testament to their cultural beliefs. It is astonishing, enthralling and above all, real.

?  Three Turkana tribeswomen wearing traditional necklaces © Joe Bürgi

The Turkana tribe inhabit the Turkana district in Kenya’s Rift Valley Province. They form part of the Nilotic tribes and are regarded as the third largest pastoralist community in Kenya, after the Kalenjin and Luo, being slightly more numerous than the Maasai.

?  Turkana tribesmen standing Turkana-style, on the shores of Lake Turkana © Joe Bürgi

The Turkana originated from the Karamojong region of northeastern Uganda. Oral tradition suggests that they arrived in Kenya while chasing a disobedient bull. History shows that unlike many other tribes, they were not affected by colonialism as little value was seen in the dry, arid land that they inhabited.

?  Turkana village near Lake Turkana © Joe Bürgi

The Turkana don’t have any permanent settlements, frequently moving as food and water sources become exhausted. Livestock not currently being milked are moved to mountain slopes or foothills, where the vegetation lasts longer than on the plains.

?  Turkana tribeswoman with the traditional beaded necklace worn as a sign of marriage © Joe Bürgi

Similar to the Maasai and Samburu, the Turkana wear colourful clothing and regalia. Women adorn themselves with brightly-coloured, beaded necklaces, and the men dye their hair with specially-coloured soil. The social standing of a woman in the tribe is evident by the quantity and style of jewellery that she wears.

?  A young herder and his camel on the dunes of Lake Turkana © Joe Bürgi

Just like the Maasai, the Turkana’s livelihood is dependent on their livestock to provide sustenance – though they do not revere livestock to the same extent as the Maasai. Camels are one of the animals that they raise, along with other livestock such as goats, zebu (subspecies of domestic cattle) and donkeys. They live completely off the animals’ produce – such as milk, blood, skins and meat. Any money made from the selling of livestock is used to buy goods such as maize, beans, sugar, tobacco, and vegetables.

?  Turkana tribeswoman outside her home – the huts and fences are constructed from doum palm leaves © Joe Bürgi

The Turkana live as a social unit called an awi – this consists of the man, his wives (polygamy is an accepted practice), children and dependent women. The size of the awi differs according to wealth, but the average awi size is approximately 20-25 individuals. The head of the household ‘owns’ the livestock, but they are allocated to the women – the number of animals received depends upon the women’s status within the awi.

?  Turkana tribe children © Joe Bürgi

Unlike other nomadic tribes, the Turkana do not have many complex customs or strong social structures. Each Turkana family tends to be self-sufficient, though, at times, several families may graze their livestock collectively.

?  A traditional Turkana dance on the shores of Lake Turkana © Joe Bürgi

In terms of faith and religion, the majority of the Turkana still practice their traditional African religion. They believe in a god of the heavens or skies, whom they call Akuj or Kuj. This god is usually called upon when they are experiencing extreme hardship or crisis, such as during times of drought.

?  A Turkana boy keeping an eye on his camels near a waterhole © Joe Bürgi

The Turkana keep camels for two main reasons. The first is for their use as a pack animal – ideally suited for the harsh conditions of a desert environment. The second is for their nutritious milk that is easily digestible.

?  The village chief sitting on a typical Turkana stool – an ekicholong © Joe Bürgi

Turkana men carry around stools, or ekicholongs, which are used for a variety of purposes, from simple chairs to avoid sitting directly on the hot desert sand, to headrests that help keep their head off the ground and protect any ceremonial head decorations from being damaged.

?  A Turkana tribesman on the shores of Lake Turkana © Joe Bürgi

The Turkana are quite adept at crafting their jewellery – such as the stunning bracelets and necklaces that the women wear. They are also quite proficient in woodcarving, stone carving and metalwork, producing their weapons such as spears, clubs and knives.

?  A young Turkana herder and his camels © Joe Bürgi

Like cattle, camels can also be negotiated as bridewealth, slaughtered on ritual occasions, and are also given between men to create or to affirm pragmatic friendships.

?  Young herders with their goats, making their way to a nearby waterhole early in the morning © Joe Bürgi

Due to the high value the Turkana place on their livestock, often they will raid other tribes to acquire more animals. Even though this could be seen as theft from an outsiders point of view, it is considered a perfectly acceptable traditional custom amongst the Turkana and other pastoralist tribes in northern Kenya.

Opinion: Africa is not Disneyland

Southern ground-hornbill with hare in Serengeti, wildlife photography, Africa
Southern ground-hornbill with hare in the Serengeti National Park, Tanzania © William Walldén – Photographer of the Year 2016 wildlife category winner

Some imagery that comes to our screens can be tough to stomach, and every now and then Africa really tests one’s emotional make-up.

There is primordial energy in the wilds of Africa, where ecosystems still function naturally, and wild animals are, well, wild. The following photos submitted to our Photographer of the Year competition reflect what goes on all day every day out there in the wild, where animals kill to survive and where individuals (weak and strong, old and young) often suffer horribly in the process.

Four lions fighting over zebra carcass in Kruger National Park, South Africa, Africa wildlife photography
Lions fight over a zebra foal carcass in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Sibyl Morris (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

Death can be slow and agonising or violently immediate, with many versions in-between. What is noticeable to the Africa Geographic team is how some people react negatively to such images, condemning these natural events as cruel, or unfair even, sometimes insisting that the ‘victim’ should have been ‘saved’. As if leopards have a vegan option.

We even receive direct messages from incensed followers, demanding that we remove these ‘horrible’ scenes, or face the cold shoulder.

African wild dog carrying impala head in Khwai Concession, Botswana, African wildlife photography
An African wild dog with his young impala trophy in Khwai Concession, Botswana © Anja Denker – Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant

Behind the scenes, there appears to be a sympathy ranking system. For example, a fish gasping its last breath in a rapidly drying pool of muddy water would not generate too much sympathy, whereas a cute baby scrub hare being snacked on by a ground-hornbill would get people tapping that ‘sad face’ emoji.

African rock pythons suffocating impala in Kruger National Park, South Africa, African wildlife photography
An African rock python kills an impala in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Jennifer Kucherawy – Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant

So many storified wildlife documentaries follow the same Disney theme – lioness has cute baby cubs, cubs get lost, cubs get found again, all is well in Simba country.

In real life, of course, many cubs are killed by rival male lions, hyenas and crocodiles. Others starve to death or die of thirst. Only one in eight male lion cubs survive the rigours of life in Africa.

Three wild dogs attacking hyena in Savute, Botswana, wildlife photography
Three wild dogs attack a hyena that stole their kill in Savute, Chobe National Park, Botswana © Johan J. Botha – Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant

The Africa Geographic team compiled this amazing celebratory video from clips submitted by our community. All 18 wild dog puppies featured towards the end were killed shortly after this video clip was filmed, by lions. THAT is the real Africa!

Bateleur eagle sitting on stennbok carcass in Kruger National Park, South Africa, wildlife photography
A bateleur eagle visits a steenbok carcass in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Jennifer Kucherawy – Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant

Whatever floats your emotional boat, wherever you draw the line – hopefully, you all agree that Africa’s wild essence is to be celebrated and that these images represent Africa in all her raw, savage, AWESOMENESS.

Lion staring at camera through buffalo carcass in Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, South Africa, wildlife photography
A lion cub stares at the camera through a buffalo carcass in Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, South Africa © Bobby-Jo Vial – Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant

Zambia hippo cull via trophy hunting not as high as 2,000, says minister

Hunter with hippo, trophy hunting
© Umlilo Safaris

Sourced from third-party site: Xinhua

The Zambian government on Tuesday denied reports that it has authorised the culling of 2,000 hippos in the Luangwa Valley.

Born Free, a conservationist organisation which two years ago led protests against plans by the government to cull elephants in the famous Luangwa Valley, in eastern Zamiba, has reported that the government plans to reinstate the culling program which was halted after protests in 2016.

According to the organisation, the government has agreed to conduct the culling with a South African hunting firm of up to 2,000 hippos over the next five years.

But Minister of Tourism and Arts Charles Banda, while acknowledging that the culling will take place, said it was not 2,000 hippos that will be killed. He told reporters during a press briefing that the government has agreed with the South African firm that not more than 250 hippos will be culled in a year and that the figure may vary depending on the environment.

Hunters with hippo, trophy hunting
© Umlilo Safaris

The culling has been necessitated by the growing population of the hippos on the Luangwa River and that the killing will be done to maintain a suitable habitat for other aquatic species, Banda said.

He said the ministry has taken interest in the program to ensure that it is done in the interest of the country and that consultations with the attorney-general have been done on the validity of the agreement with the South African firm.

An introduction to Maa – the language of the Maasai and Samburu people

Maasai warrior with cellphone driving a game drive vehicle, speaking the Maa language
© Simon Espley

How to prepare for the safari of a lifetime to Kenya and Tanzania? Learn the local Maa language.

Once you’ve decided where to go and bought those khaki shorts and oversized safari hat, how do you make sure that you REALLY connect with the country of your choice – that you are not merely a visitor passing through?

You learn the language, Maa.

Swahili (along with English) is the national language of Tanzania and Kenya and is surprisingly easy to learn. Tanzania is home to about 130 tribes, and each of these tribes speaks its own distinctive language; however, one of the biggest tribal groups is the Maa speakers. Maa is spoken by the Maasai tribes as well as the Samburu and Datoga tribes, to name but a few.

You are bound to have contact with the Maasai and Samburu people as they often reside close to famous game reserves.

So, in order to give you the tools to be able to connect with these fascinating tribal groups, and even make some friends, here are some Maa language basics:

Greetings

Supai – Greeting for men

Ipa – Reply to supai

Takwenya – Greeting for women

Iko – Reply to takwenya

Errabioto? – “Are you well?”

Arrabioto – “I am well”

Ashe – “Thank you”

Kai iloito? – “Where are you going?”

Kai ingwaa? – “Where are you from?”

Kai ijii? – “What is your name?”

Kai ita? – “What’s new?”

Kiti –  Reply to Kai ita

Ai? – “Where?”

Ng’ai? – “Who?”

Anu? – “When?”

Nyorr? – “What?”

Sidai – nice, beautiful, good

Torronok – bad, ugly, unpleasant

Engop – ground, floor, land

Engarre – water

Enkai – God, sky

Engolong – sun

Olappa – moon

Lolkirr – stars

Animals

Ol’ngatun – lion

Ol’ngorjine – hyena

Louwaru keri – leopard

Oldome – elephant

Esiram – kudu (antelope)

Olosokwan – buffalo

Olmaaut – giraffe

Elmun – rhino

Enketeng – cow

Enkine – goat

Engirr – sheep

People

Enkitok – woman

Endito – girl

Engerai – child

Olpaijan – man

Olaiyoni – boy

Olmorani – warrior

Ilmoran – warriors

Numbers

Nabo – 1

Are – 2

Uni – 3

Omwan – 4

Imiet – 5

Ile – 6

Napichana – 7

Isiet – 8

Endoroit – 9

Tomwon – 10

Photographer of the Year 2018 Winners

2018 Photographer of the Year 2018 Winners

MESSAGE FROM OUR CEO:
What a privilege it is to receive these fantastic images from all over the world, and to have this first-hand feel for the experiences our community members enjoy across this fantastic continent we are lucky enough to call home!

We received 25,593 entries to the 2018 Photographer of the Year competition, up from 15,171 last year, and the standard of entries was again spectacular. Reducing that incredible volume to one winner was a fantastic journey for my team and I. We met each week over the five months to make a weekly selection, and then during the judging month of May, we had the tough job of choosing the photos that we feel stand out this year. A daunting task indeed.

Our approach to what makes a good photograph is primarily based on whether that photograph evokes an emotion, tells a story and reflects the true diversity and amazingness of Africa. Of course, there are technical issues to consider, and these are important. But most important for us is that the photograph breaks through the clutter of everyday life and makes you FEEL Africa’s pulse.

This year the 25 images that made it into the final round were of a similarly high standard, and choosing an overall winner, two runners-up and seven commendable finalists was especially tricky. The final choices were made based on the underlying message communicated by the images.

I want to thank our sponsors Land Rover South AfricaCanon South Africa and Tanda Tula – because in these days where just about everything has been commoditised, they understand that quality ALWAYS trumps quantity.

Lastly, a special thank you to everybody who entered this fantastic display of Africa’s wealth. Please do so again in 2019.

~ Simon Espley, CEO

A Rüppell’s vulture in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Sushil Chauhan

WINNER – 2018 PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR

Sushil Chauhan – A Rüppell’s vulture in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya

“While waiting for over two hours in the hot equatorial sun for a migration crossing to happen, I decided to change my focus to a group of vultures that were feeding on a drowned wildebeest carcass. Fully fed, this beauty decided to dry off its wings in the sun, which produced this interesting image of a great raptor. These raptors face many problems, from loss of habitat, reduced breeding sites, and reduction in large ungulates (resulting in fewer sources of food), to death from poisoning, the witchcraft trade and collisions with power lines. They play such an important role in making sure that diseases such as rabies and anthrax do not spread, and they also help cycle nutrients back into the ecosystem. We must help conserve these amazing raptors at all costs.”

Judges’ comments:

This amazing image portrays vultures for what they are – majestic and regal birds that deserve our respect. This sensitive representation of one of Africa’s most threatened birds is a refreshing change from the stereotypical vulture image of bloodied hoodlums fighting for scraps of meat. The coincidental draping of another vulture’s wing over the head of this bird is almost ‘angelic’ and adds to the dignity of the image.

ABOUT SUSHIL CHAUHAN

I am a Kenyan wildlife enthusiast, nature lover and keen photographer. Trained professionally as a safari consultant and guide, my most profound passion has always been to work with wildlife and travel the world. My goal is to take photographs that create awareness about wildlife, conservation and wilderness areas.

A baby mountain gorilla gets all the attention in Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda © Stuart Sinclair

FIRST RUNNER-UP

Stuart Sinclair – A baby mountain gorilla gets all the attention in Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda

“This photo was taken in Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda. Walking into this family of gorillas was spectacular. They were so comfortable in our presence, very relaxed and observant. It was amazing to see their strong family bond, and this photo highlights that. After a short time, they played and fed in front of us. Some of the youngsters ran through the group, seemingly knowing that it would cause a stir, and enjoying the reaction!”

Judges’ comments:

This touching image speaks volumes about family bonds and parental pride. The close framing adds to the intimacy of the moment, and the eye contact from father and infant drags you in. Those of us who are lucky enough to have been gorilla-trekking understand the technical difficulties in low-light conditions, thick vegetation and the limited available time.

ABOUT STUART SINCLAIR

I was born in Zimbabwe but moved to Australia as a child 22 years ago. Africa is well and truly in my blood, though, and I love getting back as often as possible. There is something magical about the wildlife in Africa. It’s so important that we cherish and protect it for future generations.

A male leopard stalks guineafowl in the early morning golden light in Sabi Sands Game Reserve, Greater Kruger National Park, South Africa © Annemarie du Plessis

SECOND RUNNER-UP

Annemarie du Plessis – A male leopard stalks guineafowl in the early morning golden light in Sabi Sands Game Reserve, Greater Kruger National Park, South Africa

“This young male leopard was stalking guineafowl during the early morning, paying absolutely no attention to our game drive vehicle in the Greater Kruger. We were following him for quite a while, and then he disappeared into the bushes, following the unsuspecting guineafowl. He suddenly appeared from the bushes behind us and stalked into an open area, providing me with the perfect opportunity to get this shot. What makes this shot so much more special to me is the streak of sunlight creeping through the bushes and onto his face. He may have missed the guineafowl, but I got my shot!”

Judges’ comments:

We found ourselves caught in the moment with this stalking leopard, wondering what he was hunting and when he would pounce. The framing of his tightly-coiled yet light-footed body and curled tail occupies the entire image and creates a sense of fluid motion. The intense concentration so evident in his piercing eyes also helps to balance the image.

ABOUT ANNEMARIE DU PLESSIS

Wildlife photography is my absolute passion and sadly, only a hobby. I would love to be in nature permanently, capturing all happenings and sightings to the audience at home! I am a businesswoman and co-owner of Zanis Gymnastics Academy in Polokwane, Limpopo in South Africa. My love for wildlife and nature started at a young age, and since then it has just grown – and with Kruger only 3 hours away, I can live my passion! Initially, I decided to start a Facebook page to share my images with the people at home. The response was overwhelming, and due to my supporters’ demand, I started entering small competitions. Africa Geographic is supplying a massive platform for us amateur photographers, and it is the second year that I have entered. In 2017, my image of the majestic elephant bull was under the Top 24 images and printed in their high-quality coffee table book – a first for me!

A gorilla inspects a shoe in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda © Andrea Galli

COMMENDABLE FINALIST

Andrea Galli – A gorilla inspects a shoe in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda

“The rule says that you should keep a 7-metre distance from gorillas… but what can you do if you are stuck between a silverback and some curious youngsters who want to play? You just stay put and enjoy… One of them tried to steal my camera, and after a talking-to from the guide he just pretended he was doing nothing wrong, and with nonchalance started playing with the shoelaces of a guest close to me…”

Judges’ comments:

This image spoke to us of that push-pull tension between man and beast. Humans are the cause of the rapid decline in mountain gorilla populations, and yet without the tourism dollar and 24/7 involvement on the ground from local human inhabitants, government employees, researchers and conservationists, this critically endangered great ape would surely go extinct. Andrea’s caption explains that the young gorilla was keen to engage, and in so doing ‘disobeyed’ the strictly-enforced proximity rules – adding a touch of humour to the conservation message.

ABOUT ANDREA GALLI

Born and bred in Italy on Lake Como, my wife, Linda Oteri and I decided to follow our passion for wildlife photography and moved to Johannesburg 3 years ago. Here we founded Wildshot Safaris, and now we organise photographic tours and tailor-made trips.

Two elephant bulls fight under a stormy sky in Amboseli National Park, Kenya © Andrew Campbell (Instagram/acsafaris)

COMMENDABLE FINALIST

Andrew Campbell – Two elephant bulls fight under a stormy sky in Amboseli National Park, Kenya

“I watched these two bulls sparring for over an hour on a floodplain in Amboseli in Kenya. At first, there were clear skies, and then a huge storm built up above and around them. What with the dust, the clouds, the light, the drama and the action it was truly an incredible scene and I was lucky to pop off a few shots before they eventually moved off.”

Judges’ comments:

There is so much going on in this dramatic image – and we were all transported there to watch these giants fight it out. The energy of the moment is palpable, and the combination of sparring elephants and threatening clouds with the subtlety of swirling dust and shafts of sunlight make this an evocative image.

ABOUT ANDREW CAMPBELL

Having been born and brought up in Kenya, I have had the luxury of living a good deal of my life on safari. I am now lucky enough to live a lifelong dream, and my passion for the great outdoors has now become my job, and the bush is now my office.

Leopard cub and its meal in Olare Motorogi Conservancy, Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Andy Howe

COMMENDABLE FINALIST

Andy Howe – Leopard cub and its meal in Olare Motorogi Conservancy, Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya

“This is a four-month-old cub of the leopardess called Fig, in the Olare Motorogi Conservancy in Kenya. We found Fig about a kilometre away from her cub, where she had been resting up for most of the day. She eventually made her way back to her cub’s location, and as they were greeting each other, a hare appeared in the acacia scrub nearby. Fig didn’t think twice, and the unsuspecting hare had no chance as she quickly caught and killed it. She was immediately joined by the cub who took control of proceedings, with a little guidance from its mother.”

Judges’ comments:

This image speaks of that raw naked instinct that is so essential for survival in the wild, and yet so missing from the modern-day portrayal of wildlife, which tends to be Disney-like and driven by human sensitivities and political correctness. The fierce eye contact from this leopard cub speaks volumes about how tough and resilient Africa is, and of how it will survive despite human efforts to tame it.

ABOUT ANDY HOWE

Andy Howe is a UK-based wildlife photographer, specialising in capturing the personality and character of his subjects with a particular focus on owls and birds of prey. He also loves Africa and its wildlife with a passion. Andy leads small groups of photographers to the Maasai Mara region of Kenya several times a year to photograph the Great Migration and Africa’s big cats. Andy has been honoured, awarded and published internationally in such publications as Bird Guides Bird Photographer of the Year, Nature Photographer of the Year, Africa Geographic, Nature’s Best Awards, to name but a few. Recently he received honours as a Fellow of the Society of International Nature and Wildlife Photographers and also as an Associate of the Royal Photographic Society. Andy also donates images to worthy causes and is currently involved in the charity, Art For Africa exhibition, helping to raise funds for vulnerable and disadvantaged children, as well as also actively helping the Remembering Wildlife charity for critically endangered species.

The Milky Way over Baobab Forest at Kubu Island, Botswana © Darryn Haltmann

COMMENDABLE FINALIST

Darryn Haltmann – The Milky Way over Baobab Forest at Kubu Island, Botswana

“Kubu Island is as remote as it is picturesque, and I long wanted to return there for some astrophotography. I planned my holiday around getting there at new moon and managed to find this beautiful baobab outcrop when I scouted for locations on the first night and day. I also noted the ambient light on either side from two small towns in the distance and hoped to capture this. Returning on the second night, I managed to capture this Milky Way.”

Judges’ comments:

We were impressed by the technical prowess of this image, and by the sense of mystical awe generated. We love how the photographer anchored each end of the Milky Way halo as it forged its path across the night sky, making a perfect dome over the central group of baobabs.

ABOUT DARRYN HALTMANN

Darryn is a passionate astro and wildlife photographer who enjoys combining his love of nature with his passion for photography. From a young age, he spent hours in the garden photographing birds and reading photography magazines. He honed his skills through various courses, workshops and online tutorials. He believes that the essence of photography is capturing a moment and always strives to use his photos to communicate the inherent beauty of nature.

Maasai warriors jump at sunrise near their village on the outskirts the Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © John Kerrod Wells

COMMENDABLE FINALIST

John Kerrod Wells – Maasai warriors jump at sunrise near their village on the outskirts the Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya

“In the early morning, we were fortunate enough to witness a group of Maasai warriors display their strength and skill as they jumped, framed by the golden light of sunrise. Later at their village, we learned of their history, watched the adamu (the jumping dance), and perused their wares. Another amazing day in Africa!”

Judges’ comments:

This image is all about energy and fun – and instantly drives us into safari mode. Capturing the jumping warriors in the perfect wave formation conveys a sense of constant motion, and the rising sun silhouetting the warriors and etching the quintessentially African umbrella thorn tree adds dollops of romance.

ABOUT JOHN KERROD WELLS

With interest in photography sparked by a photography-loving dad, it was a once in a lifetime trip to Antarctica that turned my hobby into a passion. I love to photograph wildlife, landscapes, cityscapes, and everything in between, while travelling to far off places or at home in Central Queensland, Australia.

A row of white rhinos in a reserve in Kenya © Luke Street

COMMENDABLE FINALIST

Luke Street – A row of white rhinos in a reserve in Kenya

“Laikipia County in Kenya is one of the last strongholds for the white rhino in East Africa. It was a true honour to be able to view these animals in such numbers, under such incredible protection. I was delighted in capturing just about the full spectrum of the different life stages of the white rhino in one image.”

Judges’ comments:

We were overcome with a sense of hope and wonder at seeing three generations of rhinos so perfectly captured. So much coverage these days of rhinos is distressing, and by contrast here is an image that speaks of future generations in safe hands. So many rhino custodians are fighting seemingly insurmountable obstacles in the battle to keep these special unicorns safe, and this image speaks to years of investment and effort by so many people.

ABOUT LUKE STREET

I have always had a deep passion for nature and wildlife, and always knew I wanted to be involved in the industry. I have been a safari guide for the last seven years and for the last three of those years, I have found an incredible passion for nature photography.

An attractive feather duster worm in False Bay, Cape Peninsula, South Africa © Peet J. van Eeden

COMMENDABLE FINALIST

Peet J. van Eeden – An attractive feather duster worm in False Bay, Cape Peninsula, South Africa

“The feather duster worm is also known as a mop worm and has a white fan of feeding appendages. The crown of feeding appendages, or radioles, consists of two fan-shaped clusters that project from their tubes when underwater. Each radiole has a paired side of branches, making a two-edged comb for filter feeding. Size varies between tiny to over 10 cm (2.5 in) in length. Some small species can bend over and extend their tentacles to the seafloor to collect food.”

Judges’ comments:

This image immediately drew us in, confused as to what and where. The feathery lace-like detail and sense of swirling motion generate a sense of wonderment, almost to the point of being hypnotic. We know so little about life in the oceans, and this image helps draw us into that realm.

ABOUT PEET J. VAN EEDEN

I am a full-time Gastroenterologist based in Cape Town. As a weekend diver and photographer, I have been involved in underwater photography for over four decades. I specialise in underwater macro photography. My key inspiration remains my love for the world below the waves.

Portrait of a leopard mother and her 6-month-old cub in Thornybush Game Reserve, South Africa © Henrico Muller

THE “FACEBOOK FAVOURITE” WINNER – as voted by our Facebook community
Henrico Muller – Portrait of a leopard mother and her 6-month-old cub in Thornybush Game Reserve, South Africa
VOTES: 546

An African rock python kills an impala in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Jennifer Kucherawy

THE “WEBSITE FAVOURITE” WINNER – as voted by visitors to our website
Jennifer Kucherawy – An African rock python kills an impala in Kruger National Park, South Africa
VOTES: 5,553

“Slow dancing” in Pilanesberg Game Reserve, South Africa © Deon Hoon (Instagram/deon.hoon)

THE “INSTA FAVOURITE” WINNER – as voted by our Instagram community
Deon Hoon – “Slow dancing” in Pilanesberg Game Reserve, South Africa (Instagram/deon.hoon)
VOTES: 3,804

Forest hornbills being decimated in Ghana

Brown-cheeked hornbill, African birdlife
Brown-cheeked hornbill © Dimitry Naumenko/WikiCommons

Six out of eight Ghanaian forest hornbill species have shown significant population declines due to uncontrolled hunting, according to a long-term research project.

The large forest hornbills of west Africa are now popular targets of the rampant bushmeat industry now that most mammal species have been all but wiped out in certain areas. Large hornbill species are also targeted for their unique casques (a hollow helmet-like structure on the bill, used for decorative purposes) and suffer population declines due to habitat destruction – but in this case the primary cause for population reductions is hunting for meat.

The Upper Guinean rainforests are a biodiversity hotspot because of the wide range of species found there, and they are on the front lines of the current global extinction crisis. Species such as large hornbills, with restricted habitat requirements and slow reproductive rates, are particularly vulnerable.

The research project was carried out in 26 forests from 1990 to 2014 – covering a range of key areas, from national parks to logging concessions. Of concern is that the hornbill species were already locally extinct or rapidly disappearing – even in the relatively protected national parks with largely intact forests. Encounter rates during the period of the research dropped by up to 88% for certain species.

Depleted populations of large hornbills persist mainly in two large and relatively well-protected wildlife reserves – Ankasa Resource Reserve and Kakum National Park. Contrastingly, the five largest species of the nine hornbills known to Bia Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, have vanished completely.

The researchers conclude that uncontrolled hunting is the major driver of the recent drastic forest hornbill population declines and local extinctions. They call for urgent conservation action to prevent further declines and impending extirpations of forest hornbills and other wildlife in West Africa.

List of Ghanaian forest hornbill species

• Red-billed dwarf hornbill (Lophoceros camurus)
• African pied hornbill (Lophoceros fasciatus)
• White-crested hornbill (Horizocerus albocristatus)
• Black dwarf hornbill (Horizocerus hartlaubi)
• Black-casqued hornbill (Ceratogymna atrata)
• Yellow-casqued hornbill (Ceratogymna elata)
• Black-and-white-casqued hornbill (Bycanistes subcylindricus)
• Brown-cheeked hornbill (Bycanistes cylindricus)
• Piping hornbill (Bycanistes fistulator)

Full report: Biological Conservation, Holbech, L. H., Annorbah, N. N., Phalan, B., & Arcilla, N. (2018): Uncontrolled hunting and habitat degradation decimate and extirpate forest hornbills in Ghana, West Africa , 223, 104-111

Zambia reinstates plan to cull 2,000 hippos

Two hunters with hippo carcass, trophy hunting hippos
© Umlilo Safaris

Sourced from third-party sites: Born Free Foundation and CAJ News

Conservationists are up in arms over the announcement by Zambian authorities that the 2016 decision to suspend the culling of 2,000 hippos has been overturned. The plan to reduce the hippo population in the Luangwa Valley over the next five years has been justified by Zambia’s Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW), arguing that the exercise is a wildlife management tool aimed at preventing anthrax outbreaks among animals due to high populations of hippo.

The cull is being promoted to trophy hunters by the South African hunting outfitter Umlilo Safaris as a ‘hippo management hunt‘.

Born Free, the conservationist organisation that led the efforts to stop the slaughter in 2016, is calling for the authorities to urgently reconsider and abort the agreement that only benefits private safari hunting companies and trophy hunters.

A hunter with a hippo carcass, trophy hunting hippos
© Umlilo Safaris

“Our sources reveal that the government has moved swiftly to reinstate the cull, perhaps hoping this would go unnoticed,” said Born Free President, Will Travers. “They are, apparently, using the same flawed rational for the slaughter as last time.”

He said the authorities had neither provided evidence demonstrating that there is an overpopulation of hippos in the Luangwa River nor proof that such a hippo cull of healthy animals would prevent a future outbreak of anthrax.

Born Free is now appealing to national and international wildlife conservation organisations in calling on President Edgar Lungu to “personally intervene and call a permanent halt to this damaging and distressing plan, with immediate effect”.

Wild hippo numbers across Africa are under increasingly pressure with a maximum estimate of just 130,000 animals. In addition, as efforts increase to end the trade in elephant ivory, hippos are being increasingly targeted for their ivory as a replacement. According to Born Free, the latest data confirms that in the decade to 2016, more than 6,000 hippo teeth, 2,048 hippo tusks and a further 1,183 hippo ‘trophies’ were exported to EU Member States alongside thousands of other ‘parts and products’.

Elephant cow with calf saved from snare

Elephant under sedation while being treated for injury © Peace Parks Foundation
The elephant cow under sedation while her injury is treated © Peace Parks Foundation

Sourced from third-party site: Peace Parks Foundation

A remarkable rescue mission was undertaken Sunday, 20 May 2018 in Mozambique, when a female elephant, with a two-week-old baby right on her heels, was seen early-morning with a snare cutting into her left hind leg.

Brian Neubert, Peace Parks Foundation’s Conservation Manager in Maputo Special Reserve, spotted the elephant in a group of around 20 other elephants. Flying with helicopter pilot Richard Fair, he noted her position and hastily returned back to base to refuel and mobilise a ground-crew to assist with removing the snare.

“After a fair amount of flying, she was again located around 3pm. She was darted from the air and while the helicopter chased the rest of the herd away, the ground grew started to move in. Once the area was safe, veterinarian Dr João Almeida was able to remove the snare and treat the wound,” says Peace Parks Foundation’s Operations Manager, Gavin Hulett.

Treating snare wound on elephant's leg © Peace Parks Foundation
The team remove the snare and treat the wound © Peace Parks Foundation

The small calf was secured and held away from the mother while she was being treated. DNA samples were also taken of the mother by the Eduardo Mondlane University for their data base collection.

Maputo Special Reserve staff ensured the safety of all involved in the operation, while Peace Parks Foundation staff handled the coordination between the various teams. Thanks to this effective teamwork and speedy response both the mother and baby elephant are doing well.

Elephant calf being kept safe while its mother was being treated for snare injury © Peace Parks Foundation
The calf was kept safe while the team treated the elephant cow’s injury© Peace Parks Foundation

Snaring is a common poaching method used to capture animals of all sizes. Unfortunately, as is the case with this elephant, other species that are not the primary target often get caught in snares which severely impacts on population numbers. Plans are in place to train and deploy additional field rangers to counter this.

This intervention was made possible through financial support received from Moz Parks Foundation and Travel Channel.

Aerial view of elephant and her calf © Peace Parks Foundation
Both the mother and her calf are doing well now © Peace Parks Foundation

Photographer of the Year 2018 Finalists: Gallery 2

The time has come to announce the Finalists for our Photographer of the Year 2018! It gives us great pleasure that we present (in no particular order) the top 25 photos, as chosen by our judges, exhibited in two stunning galleries.
The overall winner of the competition will receive a Canon EOS 7D Mark II with a 18-135mm IS USM lens. In addition, the overall winner, first runner-up, and second runner-up (along with their partners), will experience the ultimate photographic safari at Tanda Tula Field Camp, located in the heart of the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve.
The most popular entries on FacebookInstagram, and our Website will receive our 2018 Yearbook – a stunning selection of the past year’s greatest photography from around Africa. In addition, five commendable finalists will also receive a 2018 Yearbook.
The following gallery showcases the Finalists. To see the other gallery click on the link below:
• Finalists Gallery 1
The Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year 2018 competition is brought to you by Land Rover South Africa, with stunning prizes from Canon South Africa and Tanda Tula. To see the complete collection of 2018’s Weekly Selection galleries click here.

?  A gorilla inspects a shoe in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda © Andrea Galli

?  A black rhino is photographed through the legs of an elephant while drinking in Etosha National Park, Namibia © Johan J. Botha

?  Maasai warriors jump at sunrise near their village on the outskirts the Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © John Kerrod Wells

?  A baby mountain gorilla gets all the attention in Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda © Stuart Sinclair

?  Two elephant bulls fight under a stormy sky in Amboseli National Park, Kenya © Andrew Campbell (Instagram/acsafaris)

?  Portrait of a Samburu woman in northern Kenya © Vedran Vidak

?  A hamerkop with a toad in Zimanga Private Game Reserve, South Africa © Andreas Hemb


?  A young lion after a delicious zebra meal in the mud in Serengeti National Park, Tanzania © Panos Laskarakis

?  Leopard cub and its meal in Olare Motorogi Conservancy, Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Andy Howe

?  “Horror of drought” in Nsumo pan, Mkuze Game Reserve, South Africa © Tanya Nadauld

?  Wet baboons after the rain in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Annemarie du Plessis

?  An attractive feather duster worm in False Bay, Cape Peninsula, South Africa © Peet J. van Eeden

?  A beautiful atmospheric sunset with elephants in Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe © Greg Metro

Photographer of the Year 2018 Finalists: Gallery 1

The time has come to announce the Finalists for our Photographer of the Year 2018! It gives us great pleasure that we present (in no particular order) the top 25 photos, as chosen by our judges, exhibited in two stunning galleries.
The overall winner of the competition will receive a Canon EOS 7D Mark II with a 18-135mm IS USM lens. In addition, the overall winner, first runner-up, and second runner-up (along with their partners), will experience the ultimate photographic safari at Tanda Tula Field Camp, located in the heart of the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve.
The most popular entries on FacebookInstagram, and our Website will receive our 2018 Yearbook – a stunning selection of the past year’s greatest photography from around Africa. In addition, five commendable finalists will also receive a 2018 Yearbook.
The following gallery showcases the Finalists. To see the other gallery click on the link below:
• Finalists Gallery 2
The Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year 2018 competition is brought to you by Land Rover South Africa, with stunning prizes from Canon South Africa and Tanda Tula. To see the complete collection of 2018’s Weekly Selection galleries click here.

?  A row of white rhinos in a reserve in Kenya © Luke Street

?  A Rüppell’s vulture in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Sushil Chauhan

?  An elephant’s trunk in Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe © Giovanni Frescura

?  The Milky Way over Baobab Forest at Kubu Island, Botswana © Darryn Haltmann

?  A male leopard stalks guineafowl in the early morning golden light in Sabi Sands Game Reserve, Greater Kruger National Park, South Africa © Annemarie du Plessis

?  Aerial view of Sossusvlei in Namibia © Panos Laskarakis

?  A Maasai warrior jumps in Lolkisale, Arusha region, Tanzania © Ian Hanson (Instagram/thespurtrail)


?  A hyena pup guards his mother while she rests in Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana © Johan J. Botha

?  A food stall in the busy square of Jemaa el-Fna in Marrakesh, Morocco © Miguel De Freitas

?  A wise-looking chimpanzee in Kibale National Park, Uganda © Prelena Soma Owen

?  Lioness and her cubs drinking in Zimanga Private Game Reserve, South Africa © Leon Fouche

?  A wasp at a water tap in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Botswana © Fanie Heymans

?  A martial eagle with a banded mongoose in Singita, Sabi Sands Game Reserve, South Africa © Ross Couper

How cheetahs modify prey handling behaviour to outsmart lions and hyenas

Two cheetah eating prey
© Derek Keats

Cheetahs in the Serengeti National Park change their behaviour when handling large kills based on the threats presented by lions and hyenas, according to researchers. A new study – led by Anne Hilborn of Virginia Tech’s College of Natural Resources and Environment in the US – has revealed that male cheetahs and single females eat their prey as quickly as possible, whereas mother cheetahs take things a bit more slowly, allowing their cubs to eat their fill while keeping an eye out for possible threats.

Hilborn and her colleagues studied 35 years of observations from more than 400 hunts involving 159 cheetahs in the Serengeti in northern Tanzania to find out whether cheetahs’ prey handling behaviour altered in response to the threats from larger predators.

Cheetahs do not have the strength to haul their prey up trees like leopards do, nor can they defend themselves against larger predators, such as lions and hyenas. This is why they have developed certain tactics when it comes to hunting and eating their prey, and research shows that they tend to hunt when larger predators are away or less active.

Five cheetahs eating a kill
A mother cheetah keeps an eye our while her sub-adult cubs eat © Derek Keats

Lions and hyenas are known to attack cheetah cubs, as well as steal prey (known as kleptoparasitism). The primary threat for male cheetahs and single females is having their prey stolen – this is why they will eat their prey as quickly as possible, rather than keeping an eye out for attacks, to reduce the risk of theft. On the other hand, a mother cheetah prefers safety over speed, and her main concern is to ensure that her cubs are safe and that they can get enough to eat – which can take some time as cubs can be slow eaters and will take time out to rest and play.

“Instead of speed, mothers use vigilance to minimise risk,” explains Hilborn. “They spend more time paused before eating, perhaps also to catch their breath, and are more vigilant. This increases the amount of time they spend eating, which in turn increases their overall handling time.”

The ability of cheetahs to modify their prey handling behaviour depending on the type of risk they face likely allows them to coexist with numerous larger carnivores.

Two cheetahs eating prey
© Anne Hilborn

Full report: Springer’s Behavioral Ecology and Sociobiology journal, Anne Hilborn, Nathalie Pettorelli, Tim Caro, Marcella J. Kelly, M. Karen Laurenson, Sarah M. Durant (2018): Cheetahs modify their prey handling behaviour depending on risks from top predators

Ranger forces strengthened in Mozambique

Rangers marching in Limpopo National Park, Mozambique
The 39 recruits demonstrating their marching skills during a passing out parade held in Limpopo National Park, Mozambique © Peace Parks Foundation

Press release from Peace Parks Foundation

On 16 May 2018, 39 recruits, of which three are women, celebrated their graduation as rangers during a passing out parade held in the Limpopo National Park, Mozambique. This follows the successful completion of a gruelling eight-week ranger training course presented by the Southern African Wildlife College, that prepared the new recruits for their stand against wildlife crime in the various conservation areas to which they will soon be deployed.

During the first two weeks of the course, the more than 100 applicants selected from the region were put through intensive mental and physical training sessions. Sourcing these candidates from communities surrounding the conservation areas contributes to job creation and improving community support for conservation within the region. Only the top 40 students were then selected to complete the remainder of the course which focused on both the practical and theoretical aspects of anti-poaching operations, such as patrolling, road-blocks, gate controls and arrest procedures. Senior Limpopo National Park rangers, as well as various local institutions, contributed to the curriculum by offering additional training support in conservation legislation, shooting skills and drill instruction.

At the end of the training, each ranger was evaluated based on critical attributes and skills needed in teams that stand against wildlife crime, based on which the rangers have been assigned to appropriate roles within several anti-poaching forces.

Ranger receiving her certificate
Gilda Jorge Chitlango receiving her certificate from field ranger, Simao Manyike and LNP Park Manager, Peter Leitner. Gilda is one of only three female students who completed the course © Peace Parks Foundation

Of the 39 elite rangers who completed the course, five will be posted to Banhine National Park which sits within the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area. The anti-poaching support, which started in 2017, addresses both illegal logging and charcoaling as well and wildlife poaching to prepare the Park for potential future wildlife relocations.

Limpopo National Park will employ 29 of the new rangers. The region which includes Limpopo National Park continues to struggle under the strain of poaching of key species such as elephant and lion and has seen an increase in wildlife poisoning and snare traps – both methods which leave a myriad of species, including large numbers of vultures and critical small carnivores, devastated in the process. The strengthened ranger forces will focus on securing the so-called Intensive Protection Zone which borders Kruger National Park on its western perimeter, protecting the areas of the park with the highest game densities and tourism development potential. They will operate from a new mobile field operations base supported by a helicopter that will greatly increase ranger mobility.

Graduating ranger and his family
Erduardo Alfredo Thaunde poses with his proud family shortly after the parade. Friends and family members attended the ceremony in support of the loved ones who completed the gruelling eight-week course © Peace Parks Foundation

The remaining five rangers have been assigned to offer support to the Carnivore Protection Programme within Limpopo National Park. Their specialised duties will include patrolling and monitoring known carnivore range areas in an effort to gain a better understanding of the movement and habits of carnivores in the park, reduce the potential for human-wildlife conflict, and eliminate any poaching threats.

This latest batch of recruits is the result of a project embarked upon by Mozambique’s National Administration of Conservation Areas (ANAC) in partnership with and funded by Peace Parks Foundation, to improve ranger capacity in the Mozambique components of the Great Limpopo and Lubombo Transfrontier Conservation Areas. The project will increase the number of feet on the ground, as well as improve their skill set, whilst putting in place suitable infrastructure and support resources and developing standardised operations and protocols. These include establishing central command and control structures that are integrated into digital radio networks in all relevant parks. Mobility for deployment and recovery of patrols and support logistics will also be improved through the provision of solar bicycles, motorbikes, vehicles and Samil trucks.

In addition to the graduating class of 2018, the Peace Parks funded project has trained and deployed 26 new rangers to Zinave National Park as well as 5 rangers to Banhine National Park in 2017, and will also see 30 rangers added to the Maputo Special Reserve forces in the near future.

Group photo of the graduating ranger class
The graduating class of May 2018 © Peace Parks Foundation

Photographer of the Year 2018 Semi-finalists: Gallery 3

Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year 2018 has come to an end.
With the competition closed, the judges now face the incredible task of going through hundreds of photos – featured in the Weekly Selection galleries – to choose the finalists and eventually the winner!
It is now with great pleasure that we present (in no particular order) the Semi-finalists! These are the top 51 photos, as chosen by our judges, exhibited in three stunning galleries.
The overall winner of the competition will receive a Canon EOS 7D Mark II with a 18-135mm IS USM lens. In addition, the overall winner, first runner-up, and second runner-up (along with their partners), will experience the ultimate photographic safari at Tanda Tula Field Camp, located in the heart of the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve.
The most popular entries on FacebookInstagram, and our Website will receive our 2018 Yearbook – a stunning selection of the past year’s greatest photography from around Africa. In addition, five commendable finalists will also receive a 2018 Yearbook.
The following gallery showcases the Semi-finalists. To see the other two click here:
• Semi-finalists Gallery 1
• Semi-finalists Gallery 2
To see the complete collection of 2018’s Weekly Selection galleries click here.

?  A food stall in the busy square of Jemaa el-Fna in Marrakesh, Morocco © Miguel De Freitas

?  Aerial view of Sossusvlei in Namibia © Panos Laskarakis

?  A Rüppell’s vulture in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Sushil Chauhan

?  A mountain gorilla infant in Virunga National Park, DR Congo © Bobby-Jo Vial

?  Maasai warriors jump at sunrise near their village on the outskirts the Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © John Kerrod Wells

?  A black rhino is photographed through the legs of an elephant while drinking in Etosha National Park, Namibia © Johan J. Botha

?  “Horror of drought” in Nsumo pan, Mkuze Game Reserve, South Africa © Tanya Nadauld

?  A wise-looking chimpanzee in Kibale National Park, Uganda © Prelena Soma Owen

?  Flies surround a dung beetle at the African Impact Dumela Lodge, Hoedspruit, South Africa © Yvonne Katrin Baeumchen


?  Wet baboons after the rain in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Annemarie du Plessis

?  A hyena pup guards his mother while she rests in Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana © Johan J. Botha

?  “Teething toy” – a baby baboon chews on a stick in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Annemarie du Plessis

?  “The winged soldier” – a devil firefish in northern Zanzibar © Peet J. van Eeden

?  Up close with a chameleon in Sapo National Park, Liberia © Gianluca D’Amico

?  A martial eagle with a banded mongoose in Singita, Sabi Sands Game Reserve, South Africa © Ross Couper

?  “The artful maze” – a herd of zebra stand together in random formation in Etosha National Park, Namibia © Shishir Kumar Jain

?  A pair of collared nightjars roost on the ground in Madagascar © Aron Frankental (Instagram/afrankental)

Photographer of the Year 2018 Semi-finalists: Gallery 2

Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year 2018 has come to an end.
With the competition closed, the judges now face the incredible task of going through hundreds of photos – featured in the Weekly Selection galleries – to choose the finalists and eventually the winner!
It is now with great pleasure that we present (in no particular order) the Semi-finalists! These are the top 51 photos, as chosen by our judges, exhibited in three stunning galleries.
The overall winner of the competition will receive a Canon EOS 7D Mark II with a 18-135mm IS USM lens. In addition, the overall winner, first runner-up, and second runner-up (along with their partners), will experience the ultimate photographic safari at Tanda Tula Field Camp, located in the heart of the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve.
The most popular entries on FacebookInstagram, and our Website will receive our 2018 Yearbook – a stunning selection of the past year’s greatest photography from around Africa. In addition, five commendable finalists will also receive a 2018 Yearbook.
The following gallery showcases the Semi-finalists. To see the other two click here:
• Semi-finalists Gallery 1
• Semi-finalists Gallery 3
To see the complete collection of 2018’s Weekly Selection galleries click here.

?  A baby mountain gorilla gets all the attention in Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda © Stuart Sinclair

?  A male leopard stalks guineafowl in the early morning golden light in Sabi Sands Game Reserve, Greater Kruger National Park, South Africa © Annemarie du Plessis

?  A row of white rhinos in a reserve in Kenya © Luke Street

?  A priest rests at sunset in front of the ancient rock-hewn Abuna Yemata Church in Tigray, Ethiopia © Greg Metro

?  “A mother’s love” in Manyeleti Game Reserve, South Africa © Armand Grobler

?  A dense concentration of box jellyfish in the Atlantic Ocean, Cape Town, South Africa © Geo Cloete

?  A wasp at a water tap in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Botswana © Fanie Heymans

?  “The lion” – A black-and-white portrait taken at Thorny Bush Game Reserve, South Africa © Dave Southwood

?  “Tall, dark strangers” in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Andy Howe


?  “Flying queen” in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Paras Chandaria

?  A greater blue-eared starling drinks water in Karongwe Private Game Reserve, South Africa © Michael Heyns

?  Leopard cub and its meal in Olare Motorogi Conservancy, Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Andy Howe

?  Portrait of a Samburu woman in northern Kenya © Vedran Vidak

?  The Milky Way over Baobab Forest at Kubu Island, Botswana © Darryn Haltmann

?  A gorilla inspects a shoe in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda © Andrea Galli

?  A tractrac chat hovers in front of the sun in Swakopmund, Namibia © Chantelle Bosch

?  Lioness and her cubs drinking in Zimanga Private Game Reserve, South Africa © Leon Fouche

Photographer of the Year 2018 Semi-finalists: Gallery 1

Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year 2018 has come to an end.
With the competition closed, the judges now face the incredible task of going through hundreds of photos – featured in the Weekly Selection galleries – to choose the finalists and eventually the winner!
It is now with great pleasure that we present (in no particular order) the Semi-finalists! These are the top 51 photos, as chosen by our judges, exhibited in three stunning galleries.
The overall winner of the competition will receive a Canon EOS 7D Mark II with a 18-135mm IS USM lens. In addition, the overall winner, first runner-up, and second runner-up (along with their partners), will experience the ultimate photographic safari at Tanda Tula Field Camp, located in the heart of the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve.
The most popular entries on FacebookInstagram, and our Website will receive our 2018 Yearbook – a stunning selection of the past year’s greatest photography from around Africa. In addition, five commendable finalists will also receive a 2018 Yearbook.
The following gallery showcases the Semi-finalists. To see the other two click here:
• Semi-finalists Gallery 2
• Semi-finalists Gallery 3
To see the complete collection of 2018’s Weekly Selection galleries click here.

?  An elephant’s trunk in Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe © Giovanni Frescura

?  A thirsty hyena enjoys the water from the Cubitje Quap waterhole in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa/Botswana © Willem Kruger

?  A Maasai warrior jumps in Lolkisale, Arusha region, Tanzania © Ian Hanson (Instagram/thespurtrail)

?  A pangolin recently rescued from poachers wallows in a stream nearby the Rare & Endangered Species Trust rehab facility in Outjo, Namibia © Noelle Alcorn/Rare & Endangered Species Trust/Global Conservation Force

?  “Licking party” – a mother and her four cubs in the rain in Ndutu, Tanzania © Roie Galitz

?  A honey badger cleans up after a mud bath in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa © Johan J. Botha

?  A young lion after a delicious zebra meal in the mud in Serengeti National Park, Tanzania © Panos Laskarakis

?  A cheetah mother observes human movement from the safety of the grass in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Olli Teirilä

?  Catching the sunrise while hot air ballooning over the awakening Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Arnaud Legrand


?  A pygmy woman near Kahunzi Biega National Park, Congo © Sepp Friedhuber

?  A cheetah flicks her tail in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © India Bulkeley

?  A hamerkop with a toad in Zimanga Private Game Reserve, South Africa © Andreas Hemb

?  “The knobkierie” – taken in a rural Zulu village in the Umzimkulu Valley, South Africa © Tanya Nadauld

?  A young leopard cub in Khwai, Botswana © Linda Oteri

?  A whispering lion couple in strong wind in Etosha National Park, Namibia © Johan J. Botha

?  Two elephant bulls fight under a stormy sky in Amboseli National Park, Kenya © Andrew Campbell (Instagram/acsafaris)

?  An attractive feather duster worm in False Bay, Cape Peninsula, South Africa © Peet J. van Eeden

Terminally ill Vietnamese find comfort in rhino horn

Wild African rhino

A recent study has revealed that the reasons why the Vietnamese buy illegal rhino horn is not only for medical and health-related reasons, but also as a form of comfort to those that are terminally ill.

Conducted by the University of Copenhagen and the Vietnamese office of Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ), the study found that there has been a shift in values that drive the poached rhino horn trade in Vietnam. For example, instead of using rhino horn as a treatment for cancer, family members are using it rather for a ritualistic purpose – offering it to those who are dying (from illnesses like cancer) as a source of comfort.

“For us, the surprising trend is that horn is increasingly being used as a symbolic gesture to console terminally ill family members,” said Associate Professor Martin Nielsen, of the University of Copenhagen.

“The horns are intended to provide the ill with a final source of pleasure and to demonstrate that their families have done everything possible to help them.”

Through 30 interviews with Vietnamese purchasers of rhino horn, it was discovered that the most prevalent use was for treatment of hangovers, followed by treating minor ailments such as backache and fever. And now, using it as a form of comfort to terminally or seriously ill patients hoping for a cure has been added to the list.

The demand for rhino horn is widespread and growing in Vietnam. From the interviews, it was revealed that over 70% of the respondents preferred horn from wild rhinos over farmed animals due to their perceived higher potency. The World Wildlife Fund estimates that 1,054 rhino were killed by poachers in South Africa in 2016, and 1‚028 in 2017. The number of rhinos remaining worldwide is estimated to be 30‚000, with an estimated 19,000 and 21,000 living in South Africa.

There is also a particular interest to those in the higher income brackets who are willing to pay premium prices for rhino horn in order to show off their socio-economic status, or by gifting it to seek favour and support from those in power. Powdered horn can fetch up to R1-million (500,000 kroner) per kilo.

With this new understanding of the different values of rhino horn, the researches hope that this will help in developing new strategies that can be used in campaigns to reduce the illegal trade in rhino horn.

“Understanding the motivation of horn buyers is vital for addressing this problem. Among other things, our results demonstrate that the nature of demand changes over time. As a result, we must continually rethink strategies to curb the trade in rhinoceros horn,” says Nielsen.

“The study suggests that information about the decline of rhinoceros populations and awareness about hunting being controlled by organised crime does not affect consumer demand. Dealing with the problem requires other strategies.”

The rhino horn trade is among one of the most organised forms of environmental crime, and the number of rhinos killed by poachers has increased markedly since 2008. Because Vietnam is the country with the greatest demand for rhino horn, it also bears the brunt of the blame for poaching.

Full report: Human Dimensions of Wildlife, Hoai Nam Dang Vu & Martin Reinhardt Nielsen (2018): Understanding utilitarian and hedonic values determining the demand for rhino horn in Vietnam

Tanzania invites bids for logging in Selous to pave way for huge hydropower plant

Logging in East Africa
© Simon Espley

The Tanzania Forest Services (TFS) has invited tenders for large-scale logging in the Selous Game Reserve, a world-renowned wildlife area, where it plans to construct a large hydropower plant. 

TFS has placed a tender invitation on its website inviting bids for logging of standing trees with a total volume of almost 3.5-million cubic metres in the Rufiji district, setting in motion plans to develop the project.

“Our intention is to clear the project area before implementation of the project starts,” said Dos Santos Silayo, Chief Executive of the Tanzania Forest Services Agency.

The logging tender will be opened on Wednesday morning at the TFS office in the commercial capital Dar es Salaam, according to the document.

By clearing the trees, the construction of the Stiegler’s Gorge hydropower project will be able to commence in June this year. Upon completion, the plant will provide 2,100MW of electricity to a country that is currently extremely under-supplied. The plant will be designed to supply more than double the country’s power generation capacity.

According to Tanzania’s Minister for Energy, Medard Kalemani, the plant is expected to completely end the country’s power woes and sustain local industries with electricity and sell the surplus power to neighbouring countries.

The Selous Game Reserve is a Unesco-designated reserve and is one of the largest protected wild areas in Africa, home to elephants, lions, rare birds and other species. Conservationists are opposed to this project as it is likely to have a potentially negative impact to wildlife in the area, especially for the critically endangered black rhinoceros.

9 Fascinating facts about black-footed cats

Black-footed cat in the wild, Kimberley, Northern Cape, South Africa
© Andreas Jonsson

The black-footed cat (Felis nigripes) might weigh as much as a lion’s paw, but it is as vicious as the rest of the wild cat family. Here are 9 facts about the black-footed cat, also known as the small-spotted cat, that you need to know:

1. Even though this member of the genus Felis looks more like an adorable moggie, it is believed to be the world’s deadliest cat. They achieve the highest kill rate, successfully taking their target in 60% of hunts. Other wild cats often spotted on your African safari, such as lions and leopards, rarely succeed more than 20-40% of the time. (Read more on Africa’s 10 cat species here).

2. This tiny cat is perhaps the smallest of all wild cat species in Africa. The total length of its body is between 50-72 cm (including the tail). The male weighs between 1.7-2.4 kg while the female is only 1-1.6 kg. Kittens weigh a mere 60-90 g when born. They are so small that they do not even trigger conventional camera traps, making them difficult to study. For this reason, it is tricky for researchers to estimate the number of black-footed cats in the wild, but it is believed that there are less than 10,000 mature individuals in the wild, and that the population is declining. For these reasons, the black-footed cat is listed as ‘vulnerable’ on the IUCN Red List.

Africa Geographic Travel

3. Sometimes walking more than 35km a night to find prey, the black-footed cat is an opportunistic hunter that takes anything it can overpower. Males can even take down hares or small bustards.

4. The black-footed cat is also solitary, with both sexes marking their territories by urinating.

Black-footed cat in the wild, Kimberley, Northern Cape, South Africa
© Andreas Jonsson

5. These cute cats have pink skin, which is different from other wild cats, whose skin is usually dark tan to black.

6. The black-footed cat’s vision is six times better than that of humans, aided by enormous eyes. It’s also equipped with excellent night vision and impeccable hearing that can pick up even the tiniest sound – which is why they are easily disturbed and tricky to spot when on safari.

7. Despite its name, only the pads and underparts of the cat’s feet are black. Coat colouration ranges from reddish-fawn (in the southern parts of Africa) to a much paler colour further north. The chin and throat are white, with distinct dark bands on the throat, and a black-tipped tail. This description helps a lot when differentiating it from an African wildcat.

Africa Geographic Travel

8. The black-footed cat can be found in parts of southern and central southern Africa, favouring arid to semi-arid scrub and short grassland, and open terrain close to rocky outcrops. (Check out our safaris to Southern Africa here).

9. This great hunter is predominantly nocturnal but occasionally crepuscular – which means it can be seen out of its den just after sunset and before sunrise (add this to your sighting list for your next African safari). During the day they rest either in burrows dug by other species, in hollow termite mounds or among rock tumbles. That’s where it gets its Afrikaans name from – miershooptier – which means anthill tiger.

Black-footed cat in the wild, Kimberley, Northern Cape, South Africa
© Andreas Jonsson

Kenya to fast-track laws to make wildlife killing capital offence

Black rhino
© Gerry Zambonini/Flickr

Sourced from third-party sites: Xinhuanet and Save the Rhino

Kenya will fast-track laws to make wildlife poaching a capital offence as part of the country’s bid to conserve flora and fauna, a senior government official said last week.

Najib Balala, the Minister for Tourism and Wildlife, said that once the laws are enacted, the offenders of the wildlife crimes will face the death penalty in accordance with the laws of the land.

“We have in place the Wildlife Conservation Act that was enacted in 2013 and which fetches offenders a life sentence or a fine of 200,000 U.S. dollars. However, this has not been deterrence enough to curb poaching, hence the proposed stiffer sentence,” Balala remarked during the official launch of the northern white rhino commemorative stamps at Ol Pejeta Conservancy located in Laikipia County on the slopes of Mount Kenya.

The initiative to issue a set of stamps to celebrate the northern white rhino was instigated by the Postal Corporation of Kenya in honour of ‘Sudan’, the remaining male northern white rhino that died on March 19 after suffering from age-related health issues and from a series of infections.

Last year Kenya saw a decline in the number of rhinos and elephants poached, largely thanks to enhanced wildlife law-enforcement efforts and investment in conservation. “Kenya lost nine rhinos and 60 elephants to poachers in 2017, compared to 14 rhinos and 96 elephants lost in the previous year” said Balala.

However, just earlier this month poachers shot dead three black rhinos inside a rhino sanctuary in Meru National Park and had their horns removed.

Richard Vigne, the CEO of Ol Pejeta Conservancy that was home to Sudan the rhino, said the tragic story of the northern rhino will be captured forever as a signal to the world. He added that whilst Kenya remains a global leader in conservation, there are nonetheless many species across the planet that face a similar plight.

Attacks by captive carnivores – the stats revealed in open letter to minister

Petting a captive cheetah

Media release by Endangered Wildlife Trust, Blood LionsNational Association of ConservanciesPantheraWild TrustWildlifeACT

OPEN LETTER TO DR EDNA MOLEWA, THE MINISTER OF ENVIRONMENTAL AFFAIRS RE CAPTIVE CARNIVORE INTERACTIONS

It is with grave concern that the undersigned organisations, note that yet another person has been seriously injured by a captive carnivore in South Africa. The incident, which took place at Thabazimbi Predator Park in Limpopo at the end of April 2018, is not an isolated incident. Records show that at least 37 similar incidents have occurred since 1996, affecting no less than 40 victims. This figure reflects only those incidents that have been reported in the media and hence there could be more.

We respectfully and urgently request that you take the following information into consideration:

Of the 37 known incidents:

•Forty victims were involved with 28 being injured and 12 killed;

• Fourteen (38%) of the incidents involved captive cheetahs;

• Twenty-two (60%) incidents involved captive lions;

• One incident involved a captive tiger;

• 92% of the fatalities were due to lions and 46% of all lion attacks were fatal;

• These incidents involved 13 adult women, 18 adult men, and nine children, showing that no gender or age group is exempt;

• These incidents are geographically widespread as follows: Limpopo – nine; Eastern Cape – eight, Gauteng – six; North West Province – four; KwaZulu-Natal – four, Western Cape – two, and one unknown.

• These incidents occurred in a variety of ways, with the most common attacks occurring while people were inside the camps with the carnivores (24 incidents). Four incidents involved people being attacked through a fence. On three occasions, the animals had escaped, while on another three occasions victims were inside or on a vehicle. Another three incidents involved the victim trespassing, attack by released captive cheetahs and one unknown circumstance.

Members of the conservation sector have been expressing concern about the captive facilities where these interactions take place for more than 10 years because:

• They have no conservation value;

• There are no adequate safety regulations in place to protect tourists and facility staff;

• Welfare standards are often compromised or not regulated or monitored, and are further complicated by unclear mandates on welfare between the Department of Environmental Affairs and the Department of Agriculture Forestry and Fisheries;

• Links to shooting (‘canned hunting’) of captive Lions and the bone trade are negatively impacting on South Africa’s conservation image.

There are clearly significant risks posed by the interactions between humans and captive carnivores, and it is worrying that despite this, the sector remains ineffectively regulated. There are no regulations governing which carnivores may be kept in captivity, or why; by whom and for what purpose; under which conditions and with what activities related to them. As a result, it is highly probable that the incidences of injury or death as a result of interactions with captive carnivores will continue.

With at least 28 injured people and 12 fatalities, the time has clearly come for legislation to be put in place to end all public interactions with carnivores in South Africa. There is no justifiable rationale for the public to be interacting with carnivores in captivity, risking people’s lives.

We further call on the South African government to institute strict regulations for the management of all carnivores held in captivity that ensure that only qualified, experienced people have access to these animals and that no risks are posed to either human or animal life by unrestricted, unregulated access by all people.

Should the South African government continue to turn a blind eye to this issue, more people will be injured or killed. It is clear that the current system is flawed and a failure to react rapidly to protect people would be negligent.

Signed:

Endangered Wildlife Trust,

CEO, Ms Yolan Friedmann, yolanf@ewt.org.za

Senior Trade Officer, Dr Kelly Marnewick, kellym@ewt.org.za

Blood Lions

Producer, Ms Pippa Hankinson, hancobb@iafrica.com

National Association of Conservancies, Stewardship of SA,

Chairman, Mr John Wesson, jjwesson674@gmail.com

Panthera

Senior Director, Lion & Cheetah Programs, Dr Paul Funston, pfunston@panthera.org

Wild Trust

CEO, Dr Andrew Venter, andrewv@wildtrust.co.za

WildlifeACT

Director, Mr Mark Gerrard, mark@wildlifeact.com

Identifying venomous snakes: How hard can it be?

Juvenile boomslang, snake, reptile
The large, emerald green eyes of a juvenile boomslang © Tyrone Ping

Actually, it’s a lot more complicated than you’d think. There aren’t any hard and fast rules to distinguish a venomous snake from a non-venomous snake in southern Africa, and many people get bitten by snakes that they misidentify as ‘harmless’. I like to call this “learning the hard way” once they realise they’ve just picked up a venomous snake.

In our digital age of the internet and social media, we have access to a wealth of information about snakes. However, a large portion of this information is inaccurate, and it’s not governed by any standards. This means that anyone with access to a computer can write about any given topic and publish articles online. So, when it comes to telling the difference between venomous and non-venomous snakes you can’t always trust Google.

Snake eyes

A common piece of misinformation that has gone ‘viral’ online is that you can tell harmless snakes from harmful ones just by looking at the eyes. If the snake’s pupil is round it is said to be harmless, while if the eye is elliptical (like cat eyes) the snake is said to be venomous, which is totally false within southern Africa.

All the shape of the pupil tells you about the snake is whether it is nocturnal (active at night) or diurnal (active during the day).

Let’s debunk this myth by having a look at some of southern Africa’s venomous and non-venomous snakes, and the pupil shapes they have.

Puff adder, reptile, snakes of southern Africa
The highly venomous puff adder © Tyrone Ping
Rhombic egg eater, reptile, snake of southern Africa
The harmless rhombic egg eater © Tyrone Ping

In short, if you have to get close enough to see the inner workings of a snake’s eye you are already too close, and well within the strike zone of the snake. So, it’s best to avoid this all together!

Green mamba, reptile, snake of southern Africa
The highly venomous green mamba © Tyrone Ping
Spotted bush snake, reptile, snake of southern Africa
The harmless spotted bush snake © Tyrone Ping
Snake head shapes

Another common misconception that sits in fiction is that all venomous snakes have triangular heads (much like an adder). Many non-venomous and mildly-venomous snakes may imitate adders by flattening their heads and striking out viciously.

The harmless rhombic egg eater and the herald snake are well known for this behaviour.

Herald snake, reptile, snake of southern Africa
A herald snake flattening its head in a defensive pose © Tyrone Ping

There are numerous venomous snakes capable of inflicting dangerous, painful bites, such as the infamous stiletto snake. This snake’s head is barely discernible from its body, which makes it easily confused with many harmless snakes such as blind snakes or thread snakes.

Bibron's stiletto snake, reptile, snake of southern Africa
The dangerous Bibron’s stiletto snake © Tyrone Ping
Bibron's blind snake, reptile, snakes of southern Africa
The harmless Bibron’s blind snake © Tyrone Ping
Snake colours

When it comes to snakes and their colours, there are typically two variations you’ll encounter: snakes with bright colours and those with dull or cryptic colours. It’s commonly known that animals with bright colours are coloured so as a warning sign to keep away.

There are many brightly coloured snakes found in southern Africa, although many of these simply imitate the dangerous species while being practically harmless.

The old rhyme “Red touch black, safe for Jack. Red touches yellow, kills a fellow” is not applicable to southern African snakes.

Coral shield cobra, reptile, snakes of southern Africa
The dangerous coral shield cobra © Tyrone Ping
Spotted harlequin snake, reptile, snake of southern Africa
The mildly venomous spotted harlequin snake © Tyrone Ping

Dull or cryptic colours are used by animals as camouflage to blend into their natural habitat and surroundings.

Many snakes rely on their camouflage to hide them while they ambush prey, or to simply help to prevent them from becoming prey to something else. Both highly-venomous and harmless snakes make use of cryptic colours, so don’t let this fool you.

East African gaboon adder, reptile, snake of southern Africa
The dangerous East African gaboon adder © Tyrone Ping
Rhombic egg eater, reptile, snake of southern Africa
The harmless rhombic egg eater © Tyrone Ping

What should you do when you encounter a snake?

• Do not panic. Contrary to popular belief, snakes won’t simply attack you.

• Do not pick up the snake, especially by the neck or behind the head; this is extremely dangerous and if done incorrectly you could get you bitten.

• Do not attempt to kill the snake. Remember, if you’re close enough to strike the snake with something, you’re close enough to get bitten. Some snakes can spit/spray their venom up to 3 metres.

• Do maintain a safe distance away of at least 3 metres. At this range it is very difficult for a snake to bite you.

• Do keep an eye on the snake at all times and call a local snake catcher (Google is your friend here) to safely relocate it.

• Do take a photo of the snake if possible, and only if it can be done safely. This will help the snake catcher identify the snake should it disappear before they arrive.

The snakes of southern Africa are a complex group of animals, and no single rule applies to all of them. If you’re still concerned about coming across a snake at some point, invest in a good field guide and get to know the venomous snakes in your area; education is the key.

SA hunters expelled over canned lion hunting

Lion cubs bred in captivity
Lion cubs bred in captivity © Audrey Delsink

Written by Simon Bloch

Two South African hunting associations that embrace canned lion hunting have lost an appeal to retain their membership to Europe’s top hunting organisation, and have been thrown out of the International Council for Game and Wildlife Conservation for breach of policy. The decision was taken by the international council’s general assembly in Madrid.

The expulsion of the Professional Hunters’ Association of South Africa (PHASA) and Confederation of Hunting Associations of South Africa (CHASA) is considered the strongest rejection of South Africa’s hunting policies, as well as of bodies that support canned lion or captive-bred lion shooting operations which are widely regarded as unethical and unsportsmanlike.

The expulsion follows a policy reversal by the two hunting bodies in November last year to support the captive lion hunting industry, and permit membership of their organisations by persons who engage in the practice of captive-bred lion shooting. This is despite the fact that in 2015, PHASA members voted unanimously to reject captive lion hunts at the body’s AGM in Polokwane.

Tamás Marghescu, Director General of the International Council said that “both organisations had exercised their rights of appeal in accordance with the statutes, but failed in their bid to be reinstated. At the 65th General Assembly held in Madrid on May 4, an appeal was heard concerning the decision by the executive committee to expel the two organisations. The members decided by 114 votes to 3 that the organisations were in breach of policies and the expulsion was confirmed. There were 9 abstentions.”

In September 2016 the executive committee of the International Council adopted the International Union for Conservation of Nature 13 which called on the South African government to terminate the hunting of captive-bred lions.

Since PHASA’s 2017 AGM in November, the world’s leading hunting institutions have moved to distance themselves from the organisation and the canned lion hunting industry, which continues to tarnish South Africa’s conservation reputation.

The decision to expel the two organisations was widely welcomed by representatives of prominent African hunting bodies and organisations.

Danene van der Westhuyzen chairperson of the Operators and Professional Hunters Associations of Africa and vice president of the Namibian Professional Hunters Association said both organisations supported and applauded the decision. “It shows a movement towards unity, but even more so, that hunters condemn any such unethical practices.”

Several unsuccessful attempts were made to contact Professional Hunters’ Association of South Africa exco members for comment. Meanwhile, the Brandfort lion breeding farm and slaughterhouse discovered by the Free State SPCA last week, belongs to a former SA Predator Association council member Andre Steyn.

The gruesome discovery of at least 54 dead lions and a further 260 plus lions in captive conditions at Steyn’s farm, Wag-’n Bietjie, last week, sparked public rage over lions and tigers that are bred for the bullet and skinned for their bones for export to South East Asia’s widely unregulated medicine markets and wildlife body-parts trade.

Photographer of the Year 2018 Top 101: Gallery 4

Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year 2018 has come to an end.
With the competition closed, the judges now face the incredible task of going through hundreds of photos – featured in the Weekly Selection galleries – to choose the finalists and eventually the winner!
It is now with great pleasure that we present (in no particular order) the top 101 photos from the competition!
The overall winner of the competition will receive a Canon EOS 7D Mark II with a 18-135mm IS USM lens. In addition, the overall winner, first runner-up, and second runner-up (along with their partners), will experience the ultimate photographic safari at Tanda Tula Field Camp, located in the heart of the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve.
The most popular entries on FacebookInstagram, and our Website will receive our 2018 Yearbook – a stunning selection of the past year’s greatest photography from around Africa. In addition, five commendable finalists will also receive a 2018 Yearbook.
The following gallery showcases the Top 101. To see the other four click here:
• Top 101 Gallery 1
• Top 101 Gallery 2
• Top 101 Gallery 3
• Top 101 Gallery 5
To see the complete collection of 2018’s Weekly Selection galleries click here.

?  “A mother’s love” in Manyeleti Game Reserve, South Africa © Armand Grobler

?  Portrait of a Samburu woman in northern Kenya © Vedran Vidak

?  “The lion” – A black-and-white portrait taken at Thorny Bush Game Reserve, South Africa © Dave Southwood

?  A healthy reef with an abundance of life in Sodwana Bay, South Africa © Geo Cloete

?  A pangolin recently rescued from poachers wallows in a stream nearby the Rare & Endangered Species Trust rehab facility in Outjo, Namibia © Noelle Alcorn/Rare & Endangered Species Trust/Global Conservation Force

?  A black rhino is photographed through the legs of an elephant while drinking in Etosha National Park, Namibia © Johan J. Botha

?  A priest rests at sunset in front of the ancient rock-hewn Abuna Yemata Church in Tigray, Ethiopia © Greg Metro

?  “Street wars” in Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, South Africa © Luke Street

?  Flies surround a dung beetle at the African Impact Dumela Lodge, Hoedspruit, South Africa © Yvonne Katrin Baeumchen

?  A gorilla inspects a shoe in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda © Andrea Galli


?  A whispering lion couple in strong wind in Etosha National Park, Namibia © Johan J. Botha

?  A lazy leopard in Samburu National Reserve, Kenya © Clara Anne Davies

?  Catching the sunrise while hot air ballooning over the awakening Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Arnaud Legrand

?  A wise-looking chimpanzee in Kibale National Park, Uganda © Prelena Soma Owen

?  A cheetah mother observes human movement from the safety of the grass in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Olli Teirilä

?  “Gold, silver and bronze” – a crocodile in Zimanga Private Game Reserve, South Africa © Alan Smith

?  An attractive feather duster worm in False Bay, Cape Peninsula, South Africa © Peet J. van Eeden

?  A martial eagle with a banded mongoose in Singita, Sabi Sands Game Reserve, South Africa © Ross Couper

?  “The long march” in Amboseli National Park, Kenya © Paolo Torchio

?  Moments before dusk at a swamp near the ‘Avenue of the Baobabs’ in western Madagascar © Pedro Ferreira do Amaral

Photographer of the Year 2018 Top 101: Gallery 2

Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year 2018 has come to an end.
With the competition closed, the judges now face the incredible task of going through hundreds of photos – featured in the Weekly Selection galleries – to choose the finalists and eventually the winner!
It is now with great pleasure that we present (in no particular order) the top 101 photos from the competition.
The overall winner of the competition will receive a Canon EOS 7D Mark II with a 18-135mm IS USM lens. In addition, the overall winner, first runner-up, and second runner-up (along with their partners), will experience the ultimate photographic safari at Tanda Tula Field Camp, located in the heart of the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve.
The most popular entries on FacebookInstagram, and our Website will receive our 2018 Yearbook – a stunning selection of the past year’s greatest photography from around Africa. In addition, five commendable finalists will also receive a 2018 Yearbook.
The following gallery showcases the Top 101. To see the other four click here:
• Top 101 Gallery 1
• Top 101 Gallery 3
• Top 101 Gallery 4
• Top 101 Gallery 5
To see the complete collection of 2018’s Weekly Selection galleries click here.

?  A row of white rhinos in a reserve in Kenya © Luke Street

?  Aerial view of Sossusvlei in Namibia © Panos Laskarakis

?  Baboon youngsters play in Karongwe Private Game Reserve, South Africa © Johan J. Botha

?  A blue dusk elephant fight in Zimanga Private Game Reserve, South Africa © Andreas Hemb

?  “Flying queen” in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Paras Chandaria

?  “Tall, dark strangers” in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Andy Howe

?  Waiting for the rain to pass in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa © Willem Kruger

?  Guelta d’Archei in Ennedi Plateau, Chad © Sepp Friedhuber

?  An intimate moment between a baby ground squirrel and his mom in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa © Henning de Beer

?  “The knobkierie” – taken in a rural Zulu village in the Umzimkulu Valley, South Africa © Tanya Nadauld

?  A four-day-old white lion cub is carried by its mother in Ngala Private Game Reserve, South Africa © Daryl Dell (Instagram/daryldellsafaris)


?  A greater blue-eared starling drinks water in Karongwe Private Game Reserve, South Africa © Michael Heyns

?  “Perched in the wind” – a southern ground-hornbill’s feathers are ruffled by the breeze in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Chantelle Melzer

?  A humpback whale breaches in the waters by Nosy Boraha Island (Île Sainte-Marie), Madagascar © Gudkov Andrey

?  “Look carefully” – A lion cub stares at the camera through a buffalo carcass in Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, South Africa © Bobby-Jo Vial

?  “Don’t worry mom” in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Annemarie du Plessis

?  “Rain brothers” in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Shivang Mehta

?  Cheetah cub guarding its kill in Etosha, Namibia © Manuel Graf

?  A little egret in Umkhobi Lagoon, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa © Jacques Sellschop

?  “Chaos and calm” in Mara Triangle, Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Ketan Khambhatta

Photographer of the Year 2018 Top 101: Gallery 5

Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year 2018 has come to an end.
With the competition closed, the judges now face the incredible task of going through hundreds of photos – featured in the Weekly Selection galleries – to choose the finalists and eventually the winner!
It is now with great pleasure that we present (in no particular order) the top 101 photos from the competition!
The overall winner of the competition will receive a Canon EOS 7D Mark II with a 18-135mm IS USM lens. In addition, the overall winner, first runner-up, and second runner-up (along with their partners), will experience the ultimate photographic safari at Tanda Tula Field Camp, located in the heart of the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve.
The most popular entries on FacebookInstagram, and our Website will receive our 2018 Yearbook – a stunning selection of the past year’s greatest photography from around Africa. In addition, five commendable finalists will also receive a 2018 Yearbook.
The following gallery showcases the Top 101. To see the other four click here:
• Top 101 Gallery 1
• Top 101 Gallery 2
• Top 101 Gallery 3
• Top 101 Gallery 4
To see the complete collection of 2018’s Weekly Selection galleries click here.

?  A hyena pup guards his mother while she rests in Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana © Johan J. Botha

?  A wet and bedraggled leopard cub walks in the rain in the Auob River, Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa © Charmaine Joubert

?  Aerial view of the hypnotic sand dunes at Sossusvlei, Namibia © Julie Rathbone

?  A baby mountain gorilla gets all the attention in Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda © Stuart Sinclair

?  Mursi girl with traditional ornaments in Omo region, Ethiopia © Enrique Lopez-Tapia

?  “The artful maze” – a herd of zebra stand together in random formation in Etosha National Park, Namibia © Shishir Kumar Jain

?  “Horror of drought” in Nsumo pan, Mkuze Game Reserve, South Africa © Tanya Nadauld

?  A honey badger cleans up after a mud bath in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa © Johan J. Botha

?  A solitary elephant bull in Amboseli National Park, Kenya © Martin Fromer

?  “The winged soldier” – a devil firefish in northern Zanzibar © Peet J. van Eeden


?  A meerkat with baby in Tswalu Kalahari Private Game Reserve, South Africa © Andrea Galli

?  “Amused” – a young vervet monkey keeps itself amused with a piece of wire as it looks into the camera in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Adam Kotze

?  “The Thinker” – chimpanzee in Kibale National Park, Uganda © Yaron Schmid

?  Traffic jam at a waterhole in Etosha National Park, Namibia © Inger Vandyke

?  Desert elephants in the Huab River Valley, Damaraland, Namibia © Norman Victor (Instagram/norm_northmen)

?  Close up of baby gorilla feet in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda © Prelena Soma Owen

?  “Rainforest in the mist” in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda © Thorsten Hanewald

?  Two elephant bulls fight under a stormy sky in Amboseli National Park, Kenya © Andrew Campbell (Instagram/acsafaris)

?  A leopard launches his attack in Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe © Jens Cullmann

?  “Hand” – a young baboon plays on the Lower Sabie bridge in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Gabriella Kiss

?  A beautiful atmospheric sunset with elephants in Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe © Greg Metro

Photographer of the Year 2018 Top 101: Gallery 3

Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year 2018 has come to an end.
With the competition closed, the judges now face the incredible task of going through hundreds of photos – featured in the Weekly Selection galleries – to choose the finalists and eventually the winner!
It is now with great pleasure that we present (in no particular order) the top 101 photos from the competition!
The overall winner of the competition will receive a Canon EOS 7D Mark II with a 18-135mm IS USM lens. In addition, the overall winner, first runner-up, and second runner-up (along with their partners), will experience the ultimate photographic safari at Tanda Tula Field Camp, located in the heart of the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve.
The most popular entries on FacebookInstagram, and our Website will receive our 2018 Yearbook – a stunning selection of the past year’s greatest photography from around Africa. In addition, five commendable finalists will also receive a 2018 Yearbook.
The following gallery showcases the Top 101. To see the other four click here:
• Top 101 Gallery 1
• Top 101 Gallery 2
• Top 101 Gallery 4
• Top 101 Gallery 5
To see the complete collection of 2018’s Weekly Selection galleries click here.

?  Leopard cub and its meal in Olare Motorogi Conservancy, Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Andy Howe

?  An inquisitive pangolin gets up close and personal in Tswalu Kalahari Private Game Reserve, South Africa © Andrea Galli

?  An elephant’s trunk in Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe © Giovanni Frescura

?  A food stall in the busy square of Jemaa el-Fna in Marrakesh, Morocco © Miguel De Freitas

?  Maasai warriors jump at sunrise near their village on the outskirts the Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © John Kerrod Wells

?  A wild, weathered warthog boar drinking at a bird hide in Zimanga Private Game Reserve, South Africa © Johan J. Botha

?  A blue shark just below the surface about 40km off Cape Point, South Africa © Geo Cloete

?  An epic river crossing with wildebeest in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Boone Thomson

?  The Ubari Desert, or Ubari Erg, in Fezzan region, southwestern Libya © Sepp Friedhuber

?  A mountain gorilla infant in Virunga National Park, DR Congo © Bobby-Jo Vial


?  Honey badger and giraffe carcass in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa/Botswana © Willem Kruger

?  A male leopard stalks guineafowl in the early morning golden light in Sabi Sands Game Reserve, Greater Kruger National Park, South Africa © Annemarie du Plessis

?  Lioness and her cubs drinking in Zimanga Private Game Reserve, South Africa © Leon Fouche

?  A relatively large jumping spider (Hyllus treleaveni) in Greater Kruger National Park, South Africa © Eraine van Schalkwyk

?  A dwarf mongoose peers out of a log in Savuti, Botswana © Adam D. Barnard

?  A dense concentration of box jellyfish in the Atlantic Ocean, Cape Town, South Africa © Geo Cloete

?  A pygmy woman near Kahunzi Biega National Park, Congo © Sepp Friedhuber

?  Up close with a chameleon in Sapo National Park, Liberia © Gianluca D’Amico

?  A salt caravan in the Danakil Depression, Afar region, Ethiopia © Günther Kopp

?  “Feeding on leftovers” – a lioness walks with a piece of elephant tail in South Luangwa National Park, Zambia © Manuel Alexander Graf

Photographer of the Year 2018 Top 101: Gallery 1

Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year 2018 has come to an end.
With the competition closed, the judges now face the incredible task of going through hundreds of photos – featured in the Weekly Selection galleries – to choose the finalists and eventually the winner!
It is now with great pleasure that we present (in no particular order) the top 101 photos from the competition!
The overall winner of the competition will receive a Canon EOS 7D Mark II with a 18-135mm IS USM lens. In addition, the overall winner, first runner-up, and second runner-up (along with their partners), will experience the ultimate photographic safari at Tanda Tula Field Camp, located in the heart of the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve.
The most popular entries on FacebookInstagram, and our Website will receive our 2018 Yearbook – a stunning selection of the past year’s greatest photography from around Africa. In addition, five commendable finalists will also receive a 2018 Yearbook.
The following gallery showcases the Top 101. To see the other four click here:
• Top 101 Gallery 2
• Top 101 Gallery 3
• Top 101 Gallery 4
• Top 101 Gallery 5
To see the complete collection of 2018’s Weekly Selection galleries click here.

?  A young lion after a delicious zebra meal in the mud in Serengeti National Park, Tanzania © Panos Laskarakis

?  A pair of collared nightjars roost on the ground in Madagascar © Aron Frankental (Instagram/afrankental)

?  A young giraffe is protected from an opportunistic hyena in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Dev Raj

?  A Maasai warrior jumps in Lolkisale, Arusha region, Tanzania © Ian Hanson (Instagram/thespurtrail)

?  A Rüppell’s vulture in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © Sushil Chauhan

?  A thirsty hyena enjoys the water from the Cubitje Quap waterhole in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa/Botswana © Willem Kruger

?  “Teething toy” – a baby baboon chews on a stick in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Annemarie du Plessis

?  A rescued pangolin relaxes at the Rare & Endangered Species Trust rehab facility in Outjo, Namibia © Rare & Endangered Species Trust/Noelle Alcorn/Global Conservation Force (Instagram/restnamibia)

?  A cheetah flicks her tail in Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya © India Bulkeley

?  A hamerkop with a toad in Zimanga Private Game Reserve, South Africa © Andreas Hemb


?  The Milky Way over Baobab Forest at Kubu Island, Botswana © Darryn Haltmann

?  A tractrac chat hovers in front of the sun in Swakopmund, Namibia © Chantelle Bosch

?  A lion looks up a tree in a reserve in South Africa © Henrico Muller (Instagram/henricomuller)

?  A young leopard cub in Khwai, Botswana © Linda Oteri

?  Wet baboons after the rain in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Annemarie du Plessis

?  Sailors wait for a storm to clear along the eastern coast of Zanzibar © Johan J. Botha

?  A wasp at a water tap in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Botswana © Fanie Heymans

?  “Different ways” – gemsbok cross the dunes on a winter’s morning in one of the most remote places on the planet in northwestern Namibia © Panos Laskarakis

?  “Licking party” – a mother and her four cubs in the rain in Ndutu, Tanzania © Roie Galitz

?  Getting up close and personal with a puff adder in a reserve in South Africa © Joel Alves (Instagram/joelalves15)

Celebrating Africa’s Elephants

The African elephant (Loxodonta africana) is the largest land mammal in the world and one of nature’s great ecosystem engineers. For many people, elephants epitomise an African safari. Their big stature, tactical trunks, and human-like qualities make them a point of interest for both avid and novice safari-goers alike. Their beneficial impact on biodiversity in large unfenced ecosystems and their potentially negative impact on same in fenced environments, make them a unique and crucial keystone species in Africa.
In this gallery, Celebrating Africa’s Elephants, we are taking a look at these incredible animals through the lens of some incredibly talented photographers who entered our Photographer of the Year 2017 and 2018 competitions. So sit back, relax, and enjoy this awe-inspiring gallery honouring these majestic pachyderms.

“Circles of protection” at Addo Elephant National Park, South Africa © John Vosloo (Photographer of the Year 2017 Winner)

“While this elephant herd was at the waterhole, I noticed that there was only one little calf amongst them. It seemed to be the subject of overprotectiveness with almost every elephant it came into contact with. This image shows more than one adult elephant very carefully and delicately using their trunk to protect and guide this little one.” ~ John Vosloo

“Strong family” – an elephant herd make their way through Serengeti National Park, Tanzania © Panos Laskarakis (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“Along the endless plains of Serengeti National Park, a large family of the biggest land mammals on Earth approached. As I captured their magnificence, I wondered to myself what it felt like to be such an incredible creature, to have that power and those strong bonds that they keep within the herd.” ~ Panos Laskarakis

Two iconic tuskers flank a younger ‘askari’ in East Africa © George Dian Balan (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“If there is any ‘Walk of Fame’ in the elephant world, then this must be the one. Two living monuments of natural history in an exquisite display. The young bull in between the patriarchs has just left his maternal family and is looking for role models. The two iconic bulls probably have the same father. For the most part, they are “brothers in tusks”. The one in the background is three years older and has possibly the biggest tusks on any elephant alive.” ~ George Dian Balan

A blue dusk elephant fight in Zimanga Private Game Reserve, South Africa © Andreas Hemb (Photographer of the Year 2018 Top 101)

Elephants are the heaviest land mammals, at 4-7 tons, and the second-tallest land mammal (behind the giraffe) at 3.1 to 3.4 metres at the shoulder. The largest elephant on record weighed 10.9 tons and was 3.9 metres at the shoulder.

“Eyes only for you” – two rescued adolescent elephants at David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust’s Elephant Orphanage, Nairobi, Kenya © Poulomee Basu (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

Elephants communicate in a low-frequency soundwave, the majority of which is below our hearing spectrum. The hungry tummy rumble is the portion of the sound that we can hear. However, it has been suggested that there are over 23 different vocalisms – of which 80% are used exclusively by the cows.

“Majestic elephant bull” in Etosha National Park, Namibia © Annemarie du Plessis (Photographer of the Year 2017 Finalist)

“A lonely elephant bull appeared on the horizon in Etosha, approaching the Newbrownii waterhole. The closer the bull got to the waterhole, the more majestic he towered above the herd of springbok and other game at the waterhole… I knew I had to get to the waterhole’s viewpoint! But there was no time! I suddenly realised that I was in the perfect place to take the shot. The contrast between the white-dusty elephant and clear blue Etosha skies contributed to an awesome shot.” ~Annemarie du Plessis. Editors: Bear in mind that for epic shots like this, October is one of the best months for wildlife viewing.

An elephant rests its trunk on its tusk in Addo National Park, South Africa. © Prelena Soma Owen (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

Elephants are either left or right-handed. They are born not knowing how to use their trunks and learn as they grow. Like humans, they show a preference for grasping objects to the left or right. You can tell which side elephants prefer – tusks are shorter on the preferred side (because they get worn down more on that side).

“The long march” in Amboseli National Park, Kenya © Paolo Torchio (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“For the majority of the year, Lake Amboseli is an immense, flat, arid land. Nothing can grow on it, and under the African sun, the temperature during the day can be unbearable. So many times, while driving along the desert, I dreamt of seeing the elephants that are forced to cross the desert to reach the Amboseli swamp and the freshwater from Mount Kilimanjaro. And one day it happened. Far away, like a mirage, I saw a long line of pachyderms slowly marching through the heat waves. I carefully approached them, and I finally took the shot I was looking for, in the incredible silence of the dusty desert.” ~ Paolo Torchio

An elephant’s trunk in Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe © Giovanni Frescura (Photographer of the Year 2018 Finalist)

There are about 50,000 muscles in an elephant’s trunk, made up of six muscle groups, and no bones. This compares to 639 muscles in the entire human body! The closest thing we have to an elephant’s trunk is our tongue. Elephants use their trunks to breathe, drink, eat, smell, snorkel, wrestle, communicate, touch, feel, hold, grab and pull. We can’t think of any other appendage that is so versatile.

Flight of gold in Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe © Vikram Ghanekar (Photographer of the Year 2017 Top 101 Finalist)

“The plan was to capture this majestic elephant bull in Mana’s golden light before the sun disappeared beyond the Zambian escarpment. There was a flock of cattle egrets feeding on the insects disturbed by the elephant. All of a sudden, they took off and flew right across the elephant. With some quick camera work, I was able to freeze their motion against this unique and beautiful background in magical light. An impala startled by the birds added to the scene.” ~ Vikram Ghanekar

“Shy portrait” in Mala Mala Game Reserve, South Africa © Mike Pepe (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

Many tree species rely on elephants to spread their seeds. But that is not all. Many seeds are more likely to germinate after passing through an elephant’s gut. Elephants transport these seeds for many kilometres as they process their food, before depositing them in their dung balls – a vital fertiliser and moisture package for those seeds, and a kick-starter to life.

“Unsteady but secure” in Skukuza, Kruger National Park, South Africa © Thinus Schoeman (Photographer of the Year 2017 Top 101 Finalist)

“A family of elephants were resting in the shade of large riverine trees on the riverbank, approximately 8 to 10 metres from the road. I spotted this very young baby elephant, still unsure on its feet, secure between the elephant cow’s legs. I liked the natural framing of the body and legs of the elephant cow provided and had an image in mind. I had time to take four photos before the baby turned away and disappeared deeper into the herd. It was a privilege to witness how protective the family was of this baby elephant.” ~ Thinus Schoeman

Up close of an elephant’s foot in Madikwe Game Reserve, South Africa © Subi Sridharan (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“This photo was taken from a hide next to a waterhole near the lodge where I stayed in Madikwe. I was in the hide when a herd of elephants approached. I wanted to show the size of these gentle giants, so I started taking close-up photos of one of the elephant’s legs. Only after viewing it through the viewfinder, I could see the details (including the broken nail!) which I would not have seen otherwise.” ~ Subi Sridharan

A natural spotlight in Amboseli National Park, Kenya © Dana Kennedy (Photographer of the Year 2017 Top 101 Finalist)

“Out on Lake Amboseli, one gets a sense of colossal space and unobstructed views. On this evening game drive, the angry skies produced a dramatic backdrop to this image of a lone bull elephant as he walked by our vehicle in total silence. Amboseli and its elephants provide an extraordinary window into the world of these majestic creatures like no other place on Earth.” ~ Dana Kennedy

An elephant crosses the Chobe River in Chobe National Park, Botswana, © Johan J. Botha (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

The elephant’s sense of smell is estimated to be four times that of a bloodhound or 160 times that of a human. They can smell water from many kilometres away.

“Giant walking” in Kruger National Park, South Africa © Bernhard Bekker (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

“While travelling from the airport to our photographic safari destination, we took a small detour on a well-known loop when suddenly this massive elephant bull appeared out of nowhere. He was so gracious and not bothered by our presence at all. While he was walking, the perfect side profile shot presented itself for this amazing capture. It was truly amazing to see this tusker in this area just going about his daily routine.” ~ Bernhard Bekker

A lazy sunset along the riverbank with an elephant herd for company in Chobe National Park, Botswana © Poulomee Basu (Photographer of the Year 2018 entrant)

Elephant herds are led by older cows (matriarchs), with young bulls forming their own smaller herds after leaving the breeding herd. Old bulls often roam on their own, or with a few companions (often referred to as askaris), meeting up with breeding herds as cows come into season.

Giraffe survives despite deformed jaw

giraffe with deformed jaw in Kruger National Park, South Africa
© Nikita Loreggian

Written, and photographs, by Nikita Loreggian 

This giraffe cow, with a noticeably deformed jaw, was spotted last month on the Pretoriuskop road in the Kruger National Park, South Africa. She was with her herd and clearly in very good health – she was even able to eat despite her deformed jaw.

giraffe with deformed jaw in Kruger National Park, South Africa
© Nikita Loreggian

This is not a common sighting in the Kruger National Park, but there are a few of those who have seen this giraffe before. The same giraffe was spotted by someone in back in 2009, and then there was another report of seeing her in 2013.

It is wonderful to see how long this giraffe has been around in the park and that she has been able to adapt to her condition.

giraffe with deformed jaw in Kruger National Park, South Africa
© Nikita Loreggian

Should businesses pay to use animals in their logos and marketing efforts?

Icons of charismatic wildlife

Many charismatic species such as elephants, lions, tigers and pandas face the threat of extinction, despite being held up as the poster characters for conservation. The logic of using these species to raise funds and awareness is that they elicit a stronger emotional connection and reaction from potential donors than do say sparrows, plants and beetles.

Proponents claim that many less charismatic species will benefit by association because they live in the same ecosystems. And yet, the charismatic species are not faring well, with many facing steep population declines. Is it time to change the strategy?

A recent report suggests that companies and businesses that use the likeness of these and other species in their logos and marketing efforts should pay a license fee towards conservation efforts. While the legal implications of this suggestion are probably extremely complex, the concept has validity and requires further thought and investigation.

Graph showing wildlife species decline over the years
Recent, dramatic declines of the most charismatic animals. Time, but not date, is taken into account, explaining why all trajectories have the same origin. Long, steep lines indicate a large decline at a high rate © Courchamp F., et al

The report suggests that the public is mostly ignorant that these charismatic animal species face extinction, possibly because people think these animals are widespread in real life, as they appear so often in business marketing collateral and online content. And so, there is a lack of strong mainstream public support and monetisation. This ignorance of the actual state of affairs is arguably nurtured by the wide-scale and free use of the images of rare and threatened species in commercial product marketing – with no associated educational campaigns.

The researchers used four different methods to establish the ranking of the ten most charismatic species in the eyes of the public and reviewed their conservation status and level of public knowledge. The results suggest that the conservation status of the ten most charismatic species is grave, while the public is mostly ignorant of the conservation status. This “beloved but ignored” paradox probably stems from a mismatch between the virtual presence and natural presence of these particular species. In other words, public perception reflects virtual rather than real populations.

The report argues that the representations of charismatic species in commercial, artistic, and cultural outlets act as virtual, abundant populations competing against real threatened populations for public attention.

Graph showing direct and indirect human threats that charismatic species face
The direct and indirect human threats that charismatic species face © Courchamp F. et al
The jeopardised future of the ten most charismatic species:

Tiger: total abundance estimated at less than 7% of their historic numbers. Three subspecies (Bali tiger, P. tigris balica; Javan tiger, P. t. sondaica; and Caspian tiger, P. t. virgata) are now extinct, and another one (the South China tiger, P. t. amoyensis) is considered as possibly extinct

Lion: declining almost everywhere in Africa, with populations estimated to be at less than 8% of historic levels. In Eurasia, except for the only remaining population of about 175 individuals of P. leo persica in India, all lions are now extinct.

Elephant: the African savannah elephant never recovered from the 20th-century massive poaching levels and are believed to remain at less than 10% of their historic numbers; the African forest elephant declined in a mere nine years (2002–2011) by 62%, with about 30% corresponding range contraction; the Asian elephant lost 85% of historic range, and almost half of the remaining 15% is both fragmented and heavily impacted by an ever-increasing human population.

Giraffe: previously classified as Vulnerable because it was assessed as a single species. Three of the four newly identified species have declined by 52%–97% in the last 35 years and are likely to be uplisted by IUCN.

Leopard: classified as a Vulnerable species because the nine subspecies are altogether abundant and widely distributed; however, three are Critically Endangered, two are Endangered, two are recommended for uplisting to Critically Endangered and Endangered, and two are Near Threatened. Leopards have already lost as much as 75% of their habitat range, and 6 out of the nine subspecies occupy a mere 3% of the remaining range.

Image showing competition hypothesis between virtual populations and natural populations
Illustration of the competition hypothesis between virtual populations (here represented by iconic logos of commercial companies) and natural populations (here represented by clip art of real animals), whereby an abundance of virtual animals in culture alters the perception of an actual rarity in real animals and, therefore, the perceived need for their conservation © Courchamp F., et al

Panda: with fewer than 2,000 remaining individuals, distributed within 33 subpopulations and scattered on less than 1% of its historical range, its future remains particularly uncertain, especially in light of climate change, predicted to reduce most of its bamboo habitat.

Cheetah: occupies only 9% of its historic range in Africa, being extirpated from 29 countries on the continent, while the Asiatic subspecies Acinonyx jubatus venaticus, numbering fewer than 100 individuals, is listed as Critically Endangered.

Polar bear: lack of population abundance and trend estimates; 9 out of the 19 known populations are of unknown status. It is considered severely impacted by climate change and related sea ice decline. The few populations with available data show drastic population declines.

Wolf: once the world’s most widely distributed large predator, it has now lost about one-third of its original range, becoming extinct in much of Western Europe and the United States and being endangered in several other regions.

Gorilla: of the four gorilla subspecies, two are limited to a few hundred individuals in small and highly fragmented populations, while the two others have lost most of their numbers in about 20 years

The report concludes by suggesting that a concrete mechanism should be established to ensure financial support from companies that use charismatic, endangered species for their branding. Resultant funds should be directed at innovative interdisciplinary conservation strategies and projects.

Full report: PLOSBiology – Courchamp F, Jaric I, Albert C, Meinard Y, Ripple WJ, Chapron G (2018): The paradoxical extinction of the most charismatic animals

Wild black rhinos to return to Chad after 50-year absence

Black rhino in a boma
© Scott Ramsay / African Parks

Sourced from third-party site: African Parks

Through rare institutional cross-collaboration, an initial consignment of up to six black rhinos are being translocated by air over 3,000 miles from South Africa to Zakouma National Park, a secure park in Chad managed by African Parks in partnership with the government since 2010. The announcement of this unprecedented international conservation initiative happened on Thursday, 3rd May, and is thanks to the collaboration of South Africa’s Department of Environmental Affairs (DEA), the Chadian Government, conservation non-profit African Parks and South African National Parks (SANParks).

The project is being undertaken to aid the long-term survival of the species on the continent and to contribute to restoring biodiversity as a national asset for Chad. While the country’s last black rhino was recorded in 1972, over the past seven years African Parks has implemented extensive measures to practically eliminate poaching in Zakouma, making it possible to reintroduce this critically endangered species after almost half a century of its absence, establishing Chad as a new range state for the species.

The governments of South Africa and Chad signed a memorandum of understanding in October 2017 to enable the translocation of up to six black rhinos to Zakouma National Park in southern Chad with the aim of returning the species to the nation almost fifty years after its local extinction. Following two years of substantial planning to ensure the animals’ safety and well-being, on Thursday six wild black rhinos were moved from a holding facility in South Africa’s Eastern Cape to begin a 3,000-mile translocation by air to Zakouma. Following their arrival in the park, the rhinos will be released into specially built bomas (or enclosures) for a short period of time to enable close monitoring and acclimatisation before being released into a wider, intensively protected sanctuary.

One of the black rhinos in the holding boma
One of the black rhinos in the holding boma @ GovernmentZA/Twitter

The cross-continent translocation culminates in the return of rhinos to a country that is exercising a bold vision in securing its wildlife and natural landscapes, building a future in which biodiversity has a firm place in contributing to socio-economic growth for its people.

“We are resolved to create a secure and prosperous future for wildlife and people, so that generations of Chadians can experience the benefits of healthy and intact natural landscapes. It is a mark of the strength of our partnership with African Parks and the transformation of Zakouma in to a secure sanctuary that we are now able to bring rhinos back to Chad where they will receive enduring protection,” said Chad’s Ambassador to South Africa Sagour Youssouf Mahamat Itno. “Their reintroduction signifies an important advancement in the restoration of the park, furthering its potential as a conservation area to contribute through tourism to local economies and social development”.

Last year the Chadian Government signed an agreement with African Parks to expand their management mandate for Zakouma to include critical peripheral reserves and adjoining wildlife corridors, which was followed soon after by an agreement with African Parks for the management of the 40,000 km² Ennedi Natural and Cultural Reserve, a World Heritage Site in the north-east of the country. The conservation of these important areas is possible because of the significant support of the European Union.

The rhinos ready for relocation
The rhinos ready for their 3,000-mile translocation by air to Zakouma @ GovernmentZA/Twitter

“All too often, headlines on rhinos are about their demise as they teeter on the brink of extinction. However, today we are participating in an historic event and peering into a brighter future for this species which has persisted on this planet for millions of years,” said Peter Fearnhead, CEO of African Parks.

He continues, saying: “Regional cooperation is critical if we are to give these iconic animals a future on this continent. Our collaboration with the Chadian and South African governments and SANParks gives us a unique opportunity to encourage population growth, expand rhino range, and contribute to restoring biodiversity in Chad. The extraordinary gains made in protecting and revitalising Zakouma result from our partnership with the Government of Chad and their commitment to conservation, enabling this profoundly important reintroduction to take place and providing a truly hopeful story for rhinos across Africa”.

Lion mass slaughter house

Man drying lion bones and carcass, lion bone trade
© Blood Lions / Facebook

Sourced from third-party site: Blood Lions Facebook page – original article published in Beeld (28 Apr 2018), written by environmental journalists Elise Tempelhoff and Marietjie Gericke

Editorial comment: Please be aware that this news relates to captive-bred lions and not wild lions. This does not diminish the seriousness and abhorrence of this situation, but it is an important distinction.

A statement released by Blood Lions claims that there has been a mass lion shooting in the Free State Province, South Africa. The Blood Lions team and other environmentalists reacted with horror to reports that a lion slaughterhouse was established ‘overnight’ on a farm outside Bloemfontein.

The team said in a statement that 19 lions were shot on this farm last week and 80 were allegedly on their way to the Free State, or were already being held on the farm to be shot and their bones to be sent to the East. However, another source said 26 lions were shot on the farm on Tuesday and 28 more were shot on Wednesday. Allegedly the lions were anaesthetised before they got shot.

Their skeletons are then boiled until the meat falls off. After that, the bones are brought to a collecting point at a free-trade branch in the Free State where everything gets prepared for export. Traders in China and Vietnam pay for what is claimed to be as much as R100,000 for a lion skeleton exported from South Africa.

Blood Lions referred to the decision of Environmental Minister Edna Molewa, who announced last year that 800 lion skeletons may be exported to the East every year.

Ian Michler, campaigner for lions and member of the Blood Lions team says that this trend should be very worrying for South Africans because the farmers of the country’s 8,000 captive-held lions will start shooting them all over the country. André Steyn’s farm, Wag-’n Bietjie, outside Bloemfontein is just the first of many to follow, says Michler. “The cruel reality is that South Africa’s iconic lions are traded on an industrial scale, to provide for China’s insatiable demand for their bones.”

Beeld was told on Thursday that lions in crates were brought to the farm from Gauteng, North West and other parts of the Free State. A source who works at a game farm in North West approached Blood Lions and asked for help after two lions were shot on the farm this week, were loaded on a truck and brought to the Free State. No permits were issued for the transport of the lions from North West to the Free State.

According to legislation, a veterinarian should have shot the lions but the driver of the truck shot them himself, he said. According to him (the source), he watched powerlessly how the lions were taken away. Steyn did not respond to inquiries. Complaints about alleged animal abuse on Wag-’n Bietjie have been received. A veterinarian, Dr Hennie Klopper of Bloemfontein, confirmed he was involved in the anaesthesia of the lions at Wag-’n Bietjie. He said he had received permits to anaesthetise the lions.

Reinet Meyer, a senior inspector of the Bloemfontein Animal Protection Association (DBV), confirmed to have been called to the farm on Tuesday. “It was about two lions held in a very small crate for two or three days before being destroyed.” Meyer says the SPCA is investigating the incident.

Adv. Antoinette Ferreira of the National Prosecuting Authority in Bloemfontein says she has no file/info at this stage and does not know whether criminal charges can be filed. She said the big question is if there were legal permits issued for this shooting. She said the National Department of Environmental Affairs issued permits according to a quota system. The other question is if cruelty was committed to the animals when they were shot or before they were shot.

The National Department of Environmental Affairs sent Beeld to the Free State Department of Economic Affairs, Small Business Development, Tourism and Environmental Affairs. This department did not respond to inquiries at any time. According to the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (Cites), export permits must also be obtained because lions are an endangered species.

See this short clip on the lion bone trade from Blood Lions

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pim3az_h6BU

Impalas cry wolf, so say zebras!

Herd of impala

We all have that friend – the drama queen who goes off at the drop of a hat, and seems to live in a world crowded with danger and stress. Aside from the entertainment value, we tend, after a while, to ignore their theatrics – right?

Well it turns out that impalas are the drama queens of the African bushveld, and other species know it, and don’t take their predator alarm calls too seriously.

Life in the bushveld is indeed tough – full of dangerous predators like lions, leopards and cheetahs that would make a meal of you if they had the chance. Prey species such as impalas, zebras and wildebeest are constantly on the lookout for predators, and will sound the alarm when they see, smell or hear one. And all prey species in the area will recognise and react to the alarm calls – but to various degrees, depending on the species sounding the alarm.

Researchers have published a report in the journal Animal Behaviour, which suggests that all alarm calls do not carry the same degree of credibility. Their study focused on zebras, wildebeests and impalas.

When they played recordings of zebra alarm calls (high-pitched whinnying) all three species went on high alert, whereas when impala (loud snort) and wildebeest (sneeze-like snorts) alarm calls were played, zebras were not so concerned.

Two zebra

“They know what the calls mean, that there’s a predator around,” says Meredith Palmer, an ecologist at the University of Minnesota’s St. Paul campus. “But they also know to temper the degree to which they respond to these calls based on how much of a threat this call is actually signalling to them.”

She and her colleague Abby Gross collected alarm call recordings of the three species by showing them a life-sized photograph of a stalking lion mounted on plywood, and taping the resultant vocalisations. They then played the alarm calls to grazing herds of each species and observed how long each species spent on alert, scanning their surroundings for predators, and how swiftly they sounded the alarm and fled.

For every species, zebra alarm calls provoked strong reactions. But zebras either ignored impala or wildebeest alarm calls or stayed vigilant for only a brief time. This may be because adult zebras weigh in at about 450kg/1,000 pounds and have a lethal kick, and would not be too concerned with smaller predators (such as cheetahs and leopards) that could easily kill impalas that weight up to 75kg/165 pounds.

Impalas, on the other hand, reacted to every animal’s distress call. Interestingly, they also reacted more to alarm calls from zebras and wildebeest than they did to those from other impalas!

“If you’re an impala and you know that other impalas are probably responding to a predator but there’s also a 25 percent chance that they are alarm calling at some waving grass, maybe you would give more weight to an alarm call from something like a zebra which perhaps is a little more discriminatory,” Palmer says.

So it seems that even alarm calls are not all equal, and impalas are seen by other species as the drama queens of the bushveld.

Full report: ScienceDirect – Meredith S. Palmer, Abby Gross: Eavesdropping in an African large mammal community: antipredator responses vary according to signaller reliability

Impala ewe

Wild grey parrot trapping methods are ruinous, says new research

African grey parrot, stock photo

Grey parrots (Psittacus erithacus) are wild-caught from Africa in big numbers, to satisfy the pet trade. The wild populations are plummeting, implying that the trapping industry is not sustainable.

Recent research sheds light on how different capture methods and other aspects of the industry materially affect grey parrot populations. This compares to how CITES determines trapping quotas – based solely on the volume of trade.

The research was undertaken on a closed population of grey parrots on the island of Principe, off the West African coast. Trapping is permitted on Principe, and the island has a relatively stable population of wild grey parrots. Data was input into a model that ran 50-year simulations to predict the impact of different harvest scenarios on wild parrot populations.

The results were startling, and should cause CITES to reconsider the wisdom of their strategy for the determination of quotas.

A few interesting extractions from the research:

1. There is a tipping point for capture volumes, beyond which populations were highly sensitive to changes. A harvest rate of 11% was described as ‘robustly sustainable’ whereas 15% was ‘dramatically unsustainable’ – a fine line indeed;

2. The inclusion of even a small number of adult birds in capture volumes impacted negatively on population sustainability. On the island of Principe, only young birds are harvested, with adults being spared. This is not the case on mainland Africa, where we see indiscriminate mass trapping of individuals of any age class from roosting and feeding sites;

3. High annual variation in capture rate (reflecting poor management) impacted negatively on population sustainability;

4. Destruction of habitat also effects grey parrot population sustainability, a factor not present on Principe, where sufficient habitat and secure nest sites exist.

African grey parrot, stock photo

Concerns about the sustainability of current levels arise not only from the sheer volume of parrots in trade, but also from the birds’ poor resilience to over-harvesting, inadequate enforcement of trade regulations and the absence of reliable population and demographic data to support harvest models.

If trade in parrots is to continue sustainably it will require reliable demographic and harvest data and must eliminate instability in quota observance (exceeded quotas are not compensated by shortfalls in other years) and, especially, the indiscriminate capture of adults.

To read more about these intelligent birds read Shades of Grey.

Full report: ScienceDirect – Simon Valle, Nigel J.Collar, W. Edwin Harris, Stuart J. Marsden: Trapping method and quota observance are pivotal to population stability in a harvested parrot

Another collared elephant shot outside Zim national park

African elephant, stock
Stock photo of an African elephant

Conservationists have announced that another collared bull elephant has been shot by a professional hunter in an area adjacent to Gonarezhou National Park in Zimbabwe. This comes in the wake of a similar incident where a collared bull elephant was shot in the same area on March 7.

Gonarezhou National Park’s elephant population is well protected, with a population estimated at over 11,000 individuals. There are currently no fences that limit their movement, or that of other wildlife, out of the park and are free to wander the wider ecosystem. In order to monitor the elephants’ movement, and gather data for conservation purposes, satellite collars were placed on 22 individual elephants in the park by the Gonarezhou Conservation Trust (GCT).

In a statement released by the trust, they said that “whilst it is not illegal for a hunter to shoot a collared elephant, the general position taken by the Zimbabwe Professional Hunters and Guides Association (ZHPGA) is that it is unethical and should be avoided wherever possible”.

They go on to say that “the operator was well aware of the ethical stance and, as a result of previous similar incidences, was aware of the potential for collared individuals to roam into hunting areas outside of the park”.

The ranger assigned to monitor the hunt has been suspended by GCT and the elephant’s ivory confiscated pending the outcome of an investigation.

GCT say that this is a significant blow to their conservation efforts in the greater ecosystem and “incidents such as these threaten to undo much of the progress made and reinforce the need for stricter adherence to the ethical code of conduct for any hunting around the park”.

The Ultimate Primate Experience

Seeing animals in the wild is truly special – but, trekking for gorillas is on another level. The close genetic relationship between us makes it more than just another wildlife safari; add golden monkeys to the same trip, and you have hit a double jackpot. This is the ultimate primate experience – created by safari experts, Africa Geographic Travel.

When it comes to gorilla trekking destinations, most people think of Uganda or Rwanda. However, far off the beaten track lies the mighty Virunga Mountains in the Democratic Republic of Congo. Its remote, untouched and pristine rainforest gives it a genuine feel – no large crowds are queuing to get a quick photo of the apes. This is how real gorilla trekking should be done.

The mighty Virunga Mountains
The mighty Virunga Mountains located in the DR Congo © Björn Persson

The gorillas of the Virunga Mountains

The tension and the expectations are as sweltering as the humid rainforest air. Somewhere out there, one of my closest relatives is waiting. This was more than just another wildlife experience; this has to be the ‘family’ reunion of a lifetime. From what I have read, human gene sequences differ by only 1.6% on average from gorilla genes. I’m so curious to discover what they will be like, and what they will think of me – their weird, skinny cousin from out of town.

silverback gorilla
An authoritative stare from a silverback gorilla © Björn Persson

After a short introduction, we made our way through a thick green wall of plants and vines as the canopy rang with birdsong. After about two hours, the guide freezes like a statue. My heart started pounding – a sudden stop is always a good sign.
“Can you smell it?” he says.

I stick my nose up in the air… an unpleasant smell invades my nostrils. I couldn’t see them, but I’m pretty sure they could see us…

Clockwise from left: 1) A gorilla with stunning amber-coloured eyes; 2) Young gorilla eating a piece of bamboo; 3) The loud, guttural sounds can be quite unnerving. All photos © Björn Persson

The first thing I saw were two amber eyes belonging to a female gorilla looking back at me curiously. I had disturbed her right in the middle of breakfast, typical me. My body froze, not from fear, but pure joy. Shortly after, she went back to her vegetarian buffet and continued eating like I wasn’t even there.

Instinctively I sat down near her in the lush bed of grass; somehow, it just felt more appropriate. When you visit a church, you bow, and at a concert, you stand. When you visit a gorilla, you should assume the posture of your distant ancestors.

It felt completely unreal. Even though she was just a few metres away, I couldn’t believe that what I was experiencing was real. I studied the distinct wrinkles in her face and those warm, intelligent eyes; I followed her five-fingered hands gently breaking off the bamboo; and admired her soft, black fur that shone in the sunbeams breaking through the foliage.

For a weird moment, I thought this couldn’t be real. These are men in gorilla suits: their hands are too shiny and plump – they look like bad imitations, like extras dressed as outer-space apes in an old episode of Star Trek. But they must be real because a human actor couldn’t imitate those feet.

A gorilla's foot
The resemblance of a gorilla’s foot to a human hand is remarkable © Björn Persson

Then there are the noises: grunts, pants, yodels and sighs. There’s the cracking of roots and twigs, the crunching of fibrous bulbs. Maybe they don’t write poetry or read Dostojevskij, but gorillas have their language.

Suddenly, a young male makes his mark with a loud shout that echoes through the jungle. Did he say, “Good morning”, or “Where’s my breakfast?”.

Only one thing is for sure, a visit to the dentist wouldn’t hurt!

We then spotted a big silverback relaxing in the sun. Just the sheer size of his shoulders and biceps makes a heavyweight boxing champion look anorexic. And me? Compared to this mountain of muscles, I felt like one of those fire ants crawling around on the ground. You could immediately sense who the boss was.

silverback gorilla
An iconic silverback gorilla © Björn Persson

After finishing his meal, the silverback suddenly started to walk straight towards me. I heard the guide’s instructions echo in my head:
Stay at least 22 feet away and avoid sustained eye contact or finger-pointing. If a gorilla moves toward you, step calmly out of the way. If one charges, follow the guide’s instruction to drop to the ground in submission. And whatever you do, don’t freak out – the gorilla can sense your fear.”

Unfortunately, none of the advice seemed to help. It’s easy to brag or play macho, but when you have a 250 kg silverback passing by – so close you could feel his breath – you turn into a little pimple-faced altar boy.

“In more than 30 years, the guides have never had to shoot a gorilla, and no visitor has ever been harmed in an incident involving one”, the guide explains. “I mean, no incident apart from friendly kicks or slaps,” he added.

I’m pretty sure he says that to help me relax, but for some reason, the words don’t have any effect.

Later, we found the ‘boss’ in a shaded alcove not far from the first group. He was sitting upright with his legs crossed and his great furry mitts draped over his knees – his size, and the sweeping crown of his head distinguished him from the others. Surveying his domain, first left and then right, he could not look more imperial. As two youngsters tussled at his feet, he nudged one away so he could groom the other with his long, nimble fingers.

A little further on, we bumped into a whole group of gorillas who were relaxing in the early morning sun. Some were eating, and some were having a nap or picking fleas. A baby climbed onto his mother and went tumbling as she rolled over onto her side. He staggered to his feet, saw me and started tottering curiously towards me. I held my breath, but the guide hissed and gestured, and I had to back away, not because his parents would mind the contact, but because of our germs. Gorillas can catch the flu from us, and the common cold. We can kill them with our breath. Even in the moments of our greatest vulnerability, the threat is always from us to them.

Clockwise from left: 1) A gorilla sits in the shade with its arms wrapped around itself; 2) A silverback sits in the shade; 3) Up close and personal with a baby gorilla. All photos © Björn Persson

Throughout our hour with these great apes, the enduring wonder was how close we were able to get. Our telephoto lenses poked through branches to find a new mother suckling her infant; a juvenile twirled its way down a bamboo stalk and scampered past my pant leg, near enough to high-five; a large female, perched just above us in low-hanging branches, methodically stripped bamboo stems as if she were shucking corn.

The longer we spent with them, the more I realised they were not the hairy monsters as portrayed in horror movies. In fact, unlike humans, there’s nothing aggressive about them at all. For millions of years, these gorillas have lived in balance with nature. Never over-populating, never destroying the nature that nurtures them. Maybe we should learn from them.

There are fewer than 900 mountain gorillas on the planet, and here I am surrounded by 12 of them. The privilege is overwhelming, but at the same time so very sad considering the poaching and destruction of habitat that they must endure.

Gorillas scowling and smiling
A smile and a scowl – who says gorillas don’t have emotions? © Björn Persson

While I was with them, I became overwhelmed with the affection they showed to each other. Kids climbing on moms, siblings tussling, grown males reaching out and touching their brothers just to let them know they’re still there. Only the silverback stayed aloof, but even he came over and brushed against one of his children, or offered himself to be groomed. I wouldn’t call it love – we’re the only primates to evolve fancy-pants ideas like that – but through the touching, reassurance and comfort, you can see from where love grew.

I lived in the moment, watching these critically-endangered creatures experience what I like to believe all of the same emotions we feel each day: hunger, fatigue, boredom, curiosity, love, happiness, wariness, tolerance, respect, trust.

When the time was up, I felt incredibly disappointed, like a kid being forced to stop playing with his friends because it was time for dinner. I didn’t want to leave this place. I wanted to stay with the gorillas and get to know them. In just that short time with them, it felt like I was able to discover their personalities. Adrenaline was pumping through my body, and with a mixed feeling of joy and sadness, I finally forced myself to leave. This was the fastest (and most memorable) hour of my life.

Gorilla sitting in an alcove
The ‘boss’ relaxing in an alcove © Björn Persson

The golden monkeys of Volcanoes National Park

Just when I thought I couldn’t have had a more thrilling experience, it was time for another unique primate encounter. After a few hours on bumpy, practically nonexistent Congolese roads, we entered the beautiful Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda. Now it was time for the golden monkeys and another tick off my bucket list. Golden monkeys are approximately 50 centimetres tall, weigh around 7kg and look like some little creatures from a Star Wars movie.

They are an endangered species, and unique to the Virunga mountain range. Rwanda and Uganda are the only two countries where visitors have the opportunity of trekking to see them up close. I hope the incredible luck that I had with the gorillas would stay with me on this trek.

Volcanoes National Park
Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda © Björn Persson

Trekking for these primates is not as hard when compared to their cousins, the gorillas. The only similarity is the landscape. Though the bamboo forest that we trekked through seemed never-ending, and I found myself wondering how we were ever going to find them in this eternal world of green.

After a 20-minute walk, our trackers told us the monkeys were close. We left our bags and looked up into the trees – within minutes we saw furry faces and inquisitive eyes peeking out from behind the thin bamboo stalks. I don’t think I had ever seen cuter animals in my life!

Clockwise from left: 1) Close up portrait of a golden monkey; 2) Trekking through the bamboo forest in search of golden monkeys; 3) A golden monkey sits amongst bamboo, which is their primary food source. All photos © Björn Persson

I discovered that these are some of the least shy monkeys around, as you can get as close as a metre to them. It turns out that these monkeys were real supermodels, taking every opportunity to get their faces in front of the camera lens!

The monkeys were playful and entrancing, their soft, reddish-gold fur creating a blur of colour as they darted and danced through the bamboo. They daintily jumped from one stalk to the next and sucked the sweet juice from bamboo shoots that they dug up from the forest floor.

The other people in the group had the time of their lives filling their memory cards full of images of these little teddy bear-like monkeys. The only problem was that many times the little guys got so close you couldn’t even get them in focus!

At one point, one of the little fellas got so close that he stepped on my arm. They might not be very impressive in size, but in the jungle that doesn’t seem to matter. Here, it is all about attitude.

A golden monkey's expressive face
A golden monkey with a seemingly contemplative expression © Björn Persson

The rest of the hour passed by remarkably fast, but even so, the character of each monkey came out as we watched on – the mischievous adolescents making daring leaps between the vines; the bored-looking uncle who watches the younger ones playing; the timid curiosity of a two-month-old baby leaving the warmth of his mother. It was easy to see this troop as a family, connected in a myriad of ways, just as the vines and leaves of the bamboo wove together to create a beautiful tapestry of life in the forest.

It was hard when I had to say goodbye to the gorillas; my heart broke once more when we said goodbye to the golden monkeys. The visit was way too short, but the memory of their incredibly cute faces and big, curious eyes will stay with me forever. 

Clockwise from left: 1) Group members filling their memory cards with photos of these adorable primates; 2) The ability to get close to photograph golden monkeys is a privilege; 3) A close up showing the beautiful golden fur around the face. All photos © Björn Persson

Click here to see some of our primate safaris:
• Ultimate primate safari
• Lowland gorilla trekking
Gorilla trekking in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda
• Gorilla trekking in Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda


Africa Geographic Travel

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Björn Persson is a photographer and travel writer who’s visited over 20 African countries. His favourite destination is Kenya, but the Nyiragongo hike – featured here – was one of his most memorable adventures. Besides being an avid traveller, Björn also has a degree in wildlife conservation and uses his photos as a weapon against poaching. His first wildlife photography book, The Real Owners of the Planetis being released later this year. A big part of the profit will go to wildlife conservation.

Wild dogs return to Gorongosa after decades of absence

Wild dogs return to Gorongosa
© Wildlife Act

Information sourced from third-party sites: Endangered Wildlife Trust  and Wildlife Act

In a monumental initiative driven by the South African Wild Dog Advisory Group (SAWAG), a founding pack of 15 African wild dogs has been translocated from KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa, to Mozambique for reintroduction into Gorongosa National Park, marking the return of this endangered species to the Park after an absence of more than 25 years, and signifying the first ever wild dog introduction into Mozambique.

With only around 6,600 wild dogs left in Africa, this incredible animal is one of the continent’s most at-risk carnivores, and is listed by the IUCN as Endangered. A key conservation strategy is the reintroduction of packs into viable habitats where they once occurred. And now wild dogs will again roam free in Gorongosa, thanks to an innovative and exciting cross border collaboration between wildlife NGOs and government agencies.

Wild dogs return to Gorongosa
© Wildlife Act

This is a landmark occasion, as wild dogs have never before been reintroduced into Mozambique. Wild dogs have disappeared from much of their former range in Mozambique (although there is a healthy population in Niassa National Reserve), and Gorongosa lost all of their wild dogs as a result of the 1977–1992 civil war.

Today, the 400,000 ha Gorongosa is Mozambique’s flagship natural area and lies at the heart of the work being undertaken by the government of Mozambique and the Carr Foundation to bring back to life a vast and diverse natural ecosystem over a 25-year period. Wildlife is now thriving in the park, with numbers of species and animals having made a strong comeback. With the abundance of herbivores, the natural next step is the return of large carnivores.

Nine male wild dogs from uMkhuze Game Reserve in KwaZulu-Natal (KZN) that naturally dispersed from their pack in late 2016, and six free-roaming female wild dogs from the region were earmarked for this reintroduction. The new pack spent bonding time at a boma at uPhongola Nature Reserve in KZN in South Africa before being flown to Gorongosa where they will spend six to eight weeks in a boma before being released. The KZN metapopulation of wild dogs is the largest outside of the Kruger National Park, and a vital resource for redistribution to their former range.

The following entities collaborated to make this innovative relocation happen:

Ezemvelo KZN WildlifeWildlife ActEndangered Wildlife TrustSouth African Wild Dog Advisory Group, and Gorongosa National Park.

Read more about wild dog meta-population management in South Africa in this online magazine feature.

Wild dogs return to Gorongosa
© Endangered Wildlife Trust

Witnessing an elephant relocation in northern Kenya

Veterinarian monitors elephant during relocation in northern Kenya
Veterinarians monitor the elephants condition during the relocation © Iris Breeman

Written by Iris Breeman – manager of Lewa Wilderness in Lewa Wildlife Conservancy

Since 1995, Lewa Wildlife Conservancy in Kenya has been home to hundreds of elephants and offers them a safe refuge during heightened cases of insecurity in other areas. Unfortunately, cases of human-elephant conflict have been on the rise due to diminishing natural resources across the landscape for the elephants, and an increase in human population and settlement.

In some cases, farmers may lose their entire livelihoods because of elephants destroying their crops and the water irrigation systems, which often drives families to bankruptcy. Retaliatory attacks put both human and elephant lives at risk.

Ranger with spear taken from elephant in northern Kenya
An elephant is treated for a spear wound as a result of human-elephant conflict © Ian Lemayian

After much deliberation and consultation, a translocation exercise to Tsavo was planned, where individual elephants (often involved in conflict cases) would be moved. While translocation is not a silver bullet for human-wildlife conflict, it provides a reasonable compromise. It saves the animals from death through retaliatory attacks and helps maintain the delicate balance between conservation and livelihoods in an ever-changing ecosystem.

The elephants new home, Tsavo, is surrounded by sparsely populated settlements, meaning cases of conflict are more unlikely in that landscape compared to Lewa. It is also considered a favourable habitat for elephants, already hosting thousands of other pachyderms.

Elephant in farmer's crop field in northern Kenya
An elephant makes its way through a crop field © Ian Lemayian
Going behind the scenes

The lodges on Lewa have close ties to Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. As a guest, you can visit the conservancy’s headquarters to get a look behind the scenes. Not many guests realise this, but besides patrolling the terrain and monitoring the rhinos, the community plays a big part in conservation and forms the backbone of Lewa.

“Without their direct involvement in conservation, without practising inclusive conservation,” as Geoffrey Chege (Lewa’s Head of Conservation) calls it, “it would not be possible to be free of poaching incidents for over 5 years”. It leaves an impression: this place is much more than a wildlife safe haven. To make conservation even more ‘real’, the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy occasionally allows guests to witness specific exercises.

Nevertheless, I’m stunned when we get an invitation to witness the move of an elephant from Lewa to Tsavo to mitigate the human-elephant conflict.

Helicopter in Lewa Conservancy with elephant on the ground
A helicopter locates the elephant © Iris Breeman
Prima ballerina

We gather on a ridge; the elephant is within sight, and he’s happily munching away. I’ve gathered from the stories I’ve heard that this is one clever and notoriously smart elephant! His latest trick is to push over fence poles to avoid having to touch the wires and then walking over that one pole like a prima ballerina.

Tranquillised elephant lifted onto flatbed tralier
The tranquillised elephant is lifted onto the trailer © Iris Breeman
Moving 6 tons

A helicopter lands among dozens of people and vehicles. It’s here to pick up the veterinarian that will administer the tranquilliser. Looking around I see a host of wildlife professionals, together making up a team of veterinarians, researchers, and coordinators from Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, Borana Conservancy, Kenya Widlife Services and Save the Elephants. The cars transporting these professionals move in a distinct order. The (limited) number of lodge cars are last, naturally.

The truck and trailer are ready to transport the elephant, and the tractor is on stand-by in case a vehicle gets stuck. Nothing in this operation is left to chance, though everyone involved seems relaxed. They’re focused, but still find time to talk to guests, answering their dozens of questions: “Sedating the elephant from the air is quicker and therefore less stressful for the elephant…”; “It will take about 5-10 minutes for the elephant to go down…”; “We have waited for him to be in this area, close to the road…”; “We don’t want to manoeuvre too long…”

Tranquillised elephant on trailer with rangers
The tranquillised elephant lying on the trailer © Iris Breeman

Before we know it the elephant has a bright pink tranquilliser dart in his rear. The team moves in – swift but orderly. No running, no shouting.

A small stick is placed in the elephant’s trunk to help keep it open and ensure the elephant is able to breathe properly. One person monitors the breathing, while another monitors the heart rate. The elephant is calm, so measurements and samples of blood and tissue are taken. The truck and trailer park right beside the elephant as a crane connected to the truck carefully lifts the 6-ton animal onto the trailer.

Once secured – and all the while accompanied by vets – the elephant is transported to the edge of the conservancy. There, he is carefully moved into a double cab wildlife container. As he wakes up he gets to his feet and as many of us peek inside, he pees on the floor – a healthy sign of relaxation and muscle control. It’s enough reason for all of us to back off from the container.

School children watch relocation of tranquillised elephant in northern Kenya
School children watch on © Iris Breeman

Hundreds of bystanders including an entire school have gathered. They’re happy about the relocation, thanking those involved.

And then it dawns on me: we’re in this spot for a reason! The symbolic message of this relocation is much bigger than just moving elephants to avoid conflict. By listening to the communities, Lewa Wildlife Conservancy shows its true colours. It literally says: “We’ve got your back, as you have ours.”

Ranger in northern Kenya keeping an eye on tranquillised elephant
© Iris Breeman

Africa comes out tops in megafauna conservation survey

African lion, wildlife

A group of biologists, led by Peter Lindsey of the University of Pretoria in South Africa, has developed an index – the Megafauna Conservation Index – to determine the top megafauna species conservation countries in the world.

The Megafauna Conservation Index (MCI) looked at three main components as part of their study: ecological (the proportion of the country occupied by each mega-fauna species); protected area (percentage of megafauna habitat that is strictly protected); and financial (the financial contributions of countries through funding for domestic and international conservation efforts) components, which were applied to each of the 152 countries assessed.

The top major performers (152 countries in total)

1. Botswana

2. Namibia

3. Tanzania

4. Bhutan

5. Zimbabwe

6. Norway

7. Central African Republic

8. Canada

9. Zambia

10. Rwanda

11. Kenya

12. Costa Rica

13. Thailand

14. Malawi

15. Mozambique

16. Sweden

17. Brunei

18. Estonia

19. USA

20. Finland

The five best-performing countries for the ecological component were Botswana, Tanzania, Zimbabwe, Kenya and Zambia.

Figure showing relative importance of ecological components in MCI
Relative importance of the ecological (herbivores: Eco.H, carnivores: Eco.C), protected area (herbivores: PA.H, carnivores: PA.C), and financial (GDP) components in the Megafauna Conservation Index scores © Peter Lindsey, et al

The team chose megafauna because they are particularly valuable in economic, ecological and societal terms, and are challenging and expensive to conserve. Also, megafauna tends to require large areas for their conservation and so act as umbrella species for the conservation of other species.

Table showing number and percentage of countries that are major MCI performers
Number and percentage (%) of countries in each continent that are major performers, above-average performers, below-average performers or major under-performers in terms of Megafauna Conservation Index  © Peter Lindsey, et al

Megafauna is challenging to conserve as many large species require significant blocks of wilderness set aside to accommodate them, and some are dangerous or costly for humans to live with and pose a direct risk to human life, crops, livestock and pets.

Key causes for loss in wildlife populations include habitat destruction, excessive hunting, increasing international trade in wildlife parts, increasing demand for bushmeat and human-wildlife conflict.

The results of the study revealed that poorer countries tend to contribute more to megafauna conservation, and have higher MCIs, whereas richer countries contribute less, with lower MCIs. African countries scored highest, those in Asia and Europe the lowest.

Full report: ScienceDirect – Peter A.Lindsey, et al: Relative efforts of countries to conserve world’s megafauna

 

Map of world showing MCI rankings
World map of showing ranking of countries according to their Megafauna Conservation Index scores © Panthera

Manyeleti: The Place of Stars

Manyeleti Game Reserve is a bit of an open secret amongst those in the know. But the secret details depend on who you speak to. Jaundiced, local Kruger National Park die-hards have either never heard of it, or write the reserve off as not worthy of their holiday time (most never having been there). Others with more experience, whisper that this gem is poised for stardom.

And so, when a good friend of many years, Michel Girardin, landed the job of managing a rustic bush camp in the remote south of the reserve, I grabbed the opportunity and headed out to see for myself.

Lions are frequently encountered in Manyeleti © Tintswalo Safari Lodge

I trundled into Pungwe Safari Camp late one afternoon and fell in love with the place. There is something about off-the-grid bush camps that stirs the primal bushman in me. Soon, I had met the six European guests who had already been there for a few days and were enjoying tea and delicious pastries before heading out for another game drive adventure.

Two things hit home immediately. Firstly, their stories of lion, leopard, elephant, rhino, buffalo, wild dog, and cheetah sightings suggested a productive game-viewing area. And secondly, the laid-back charm of this rustic off-the-grid bush camp had seeped into their bones, and they clearly felt like part of the family.

Clockwise from bottom left: 1) Delectable scones and a selection of preserves © Pungwe Safari Camp; 2) Pungwe Safari Camp’s entrance sign, complemented by Simon’s Africa Geographic cap © Simon Espley; 3) Teapot being brought to the boil over an open flame © Pungwe Safari Camp; 4) Lanterns light your way during the night © Simon Espley; 5) Africa Geographic’s 2017 Yearbook is proudly displayed at the camp © Simon Espley

And so, that afternoon Michel and I jumped into a game drive vehicle and headed out. An hour of slow meandering found us near the unfenced Kruger border, watching two cheetah brothers patrolling the open savannah that makes this part of the Greater Kruger so good for wildlife sightings. One of the brothers jumped onto a concrete road sign a few metres from our vehicle to get a better view of the surrounding area.

We sat with these boys for a while before they sauntered casually off into a thick grove of bushwillow shrubs some distance away. Thrilled with my first cheetah sighting in years, the pride of lions slinking across the road in the fading light was a bonus. That night, a leopard rasping his challenge next to my tent and four species of owls hooting kept me awake for a few hours – my urban senses absorbing this beautiful African soundtrack like a sponge.

Manyeleti
A male cheetah uses a road sign as a lookout post © Simon Espley

Two days of bliss later, Michel dropped me off at Tintswalo Safari Lodge, my home for the next two nights. Along the way, we stopped for an hour to watch a baby leopard hiding halfway up a massive weeping boer-bean tree. He had been left there by his mom and was obviously given strict instructions not to move under any circumstances. Michel and I parked in the shade a distance away to see if mom would return. She did not.

Michel and I did not say much during that hour, but he did ask me an important question.

“What does exclusive mean to you, concerning lodges?” he probed.

After some pondering, I ventured that exclusive means expensive, for rich people, not available to ordinary people.

He proffered: “Sadly, that is more a reflection of how marketers have hijacked the word. In fact, exclusive has no association with cost. Exclusive means that the experience is limited to a few people at a time. Remember that when you write about Manyeleti.”

Manyeleti
Manyeleti bush breakfast © Simon Espley

I was greeted at my new home for the next few days by my guide, Christof Schoeman, who led me across a wooden bridge, past a tree hosting a family of bushbabies and through a seriously grand and intriguing lodge entrance. Tintswalo Safari Lodge, in the northern sector of Manyeleti, is inspired by a fusion of the magnificent rock structures of the Monomotapa kingdom (think Great Zimbabwe) and colonial-era explorers, such as Speke, Livingstone, and Burton.

The levels of luxury and superb service are outstanding, and my two days there were remarkable in many ways. I live in Cape Town, where excellent restaurants grow on trees, and well, the meals at Tintswalo were to die for.

Clockwise from top left: 1) Make use of the exclusive spa facility to unwind at the end of the day © Tintswalo Safari Lodge; 2) An assortment of savoury snacks, complemented by a glass of wine © Tintswalo Safari Lodge; 3) Entrance sign to the luxurious lodge © Simon Espley; 4) Delicious cupcakes and incredible wildlife – what more could you want? © Tintswalo Safari Lodge

Michel had told my guide Christof of my fondness of wild dogs (painted wolves), and despite my assurance that I am not phased about which encounters we enjoy, Christof and his tracker, Ntsako, set out to find wild dogs. Not only did we find wild dogs, but we spent a few happy hours with them as they patrolled the area before finding some shade and parking off. Happy me.

Christof, Ntsako, and I spent many happy hours driving the concession to give me a good idea of the Manyeleti landscape. We watched grumpy, smelly dagga boys (old buffalo males) wallow in mud, a demure female leopard silently and patiently hunt impala in the moonlight, rotund lions sleeping off a meal, and celebrated a rain squall that caught us as we sipped G&Ts and tucked into sundowner snacks.

Manyeleti
A leopard rests while guests look on © Tintswalo Safari Lodge

And that, ladies and gentlemen, is the essence of Africa – you can choose your lodging based on your budget, but the real experience is out there where money means nothing, where exclusivity means enjoying beautiful moments away from the hustle of modern-day life.

I am not a fan of chasing the Big 5, or of ranking a game reserve by the species count. I did see the Big 5 in Manyeleti, and cheetahs, wild dogs, and many other species, but those sightings do not govern my personal ranking system. What excites me about Manyeleti is that the land is owned by the local community, who benefit financially, and is managed by Mpumalanga Tourism and Parks Authority as an integral part of the Greater Kruger.

Manyeleti
Buffalo skull in Manyeleti Game Reserve © Simon Espley

 

ABOUT MANYELETI

Manyeleti, meaning ‘the place of stars’ in Shangaan, is a 23,000 ha community-owned private game reserve forming part of the Greater Kruger. Sharing unfenced borders with the private reserves, Timbavati to the north, Sabi Sand to the south, and the massive Kruger National Park to the east; Manyeleti is in prime Big 5 safari country.

For those familiar with the Kruger National Park, Manyeleti is close to the Orpen area and shares the same habitat of open grasslands and marula/acacia woodland. Aside from the Big 5, sightings of cheetah and wild dogs are a regular occurrence. The reserve has no perennial rivers or natural wetland areas, and so animals congregate at the waterholes and man-made dams in the reserve – ensuring excellent sightings.

Manyeleti
Views over Manyeleti from Dixie Koppie © Simon Espley

Manyleti is owned by the local Mnisi tribe, who have lived in the area for many generations and who successfully claimed and won the land in terms of South Africa’s Restitution of Land Rights Act. Lodges in the reserve operate on a concession basis and pay concession fees to the tribe.

At the time of writing, an additional land claim has been lodged against the same land, causing anger and frustration amongst all parties concerned. Before the end of Apartheid in South Africa, Manyeleti was viewed as the game reserve for non-whites, located as it was in the then Gazankulu, a former homeland set aside for black inhabitants. Declared in 1967, the reserve received scant governmental support and few visitors, and even today is relatively undeveloped.

But the wildlife does not care about politics or commerce, and you will find that Manyeleti delivers wildlife sightings to rival its famous neighbours – but with far fewer people to enjoy them. The lack of investment into the reserve compared to the neighbouring private reserves of Timbavati and Sabi Sand has resulted in a far lower lodge and vehicle density – adding to the sense of solitude and exclusivity.

I am certain that more lodges will be constructed once the land tenure situation is resolved, and am hopeful that this will be done in a way that is of most benefit to the people of the area, for the foreseeable future.

Where to stay in Manyeleti 

PUNGWE SAFARI CAMP

Pungwe Safari Camp is an intimate, comfortable, and authentic bush camp that brings back the essence of a real safari experience – the enjoyment of the wildlife, sounds and smells of wild Africa.  This off-the-grid rustic camp utilises solar and generator power for refrigeration (including ice), lights, and charging your devices and ‘donkey boilers’ (water boiled over a wood fire) for bathroom water.

Manyeleti
Clockwise from top left: 1) Inside one of the large, luxurious en-suite tents © Pungwe Safari Camp; 2) Guest unit with thatched roof © Simon Espley; 3) Entrance to the main lounge area © Pungwe Safari Camp; 4) A view from inside the comfy lounge © Pungwe Safari Camp

TINTSWALO SAFARI LODGE

Tintswalo Safari Lodge shelters under the shade of massive ancient sycamore fig trees on a seasonal riverbank in the northern reaches of the Manyeleti Game Reserve, Greater Kruger. The rather eccentric design offers a fusion of the great rock structures of the Monomotapa kingdom (think Great Zimbabwe) and colonial-era explorers, such as Speke, Livingstone and Burton. The nearby Manor House overlooks a waterhole often frequented by elephants and other large animals.

Manyeleti
Clockwise from top left: 1) A tastefully decorated, lavish suite © Tintswalo Safari Lodge; 2) Entrance to Tintswalo Safari Lodge © Simon Espley; 3) Luxurious main lounge, complimented with elegant decor © Tintswalo Safari Lodge; 4) Private pool built into a wooden deck outside the suite © Simon Espley

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Simon Espley is an African of the digital tribe, a chartered accountant and CEO of Africa Geographic. His travels in Africa are in search of wilderness, real people with interesting stories and elusive birds. He lives in Hoedspruit with his wife Lizz and two Jack Russells, and when not travelling or working he will be on his mountain bike somewhere out there. His motto is ‘Live for now, have fun, be good, tread lightly and respect others. And embrace change’.

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