Page 34 – Africa Geographic

Kruger Addicts

We’re a couple of Australians from Perth who are mad about South Africa and feel that there is nothing quite like the experience of visiting Kruger National Park in particular. We’ve been at least 25 times and almost always stay for six weeks at a time, which makes our friends and family ask: “Why are you returning to the same place yet again?” They assume it must be boring and repetitive, but they don’t realise that it is very different in unpredictable ways every time and every day.

Kruger National Park is a vast area of about 19,485km², which is 360km long and about 65km wide, making it the size of a small country. And visiting Kruger can be an enriching adventure if you tackle it right! Sure, you can go on an all-inclusive safari where you will stay in luxury lodges and be driven around, but you could also do it yourself and indulge in the same serendipity for a lot less money. This serendipity comes from seeing what offers itself up to be seen – where what you see next is determined by what you stop to look at along the way.

sally-and-bob-redrocks-near-shingwedzi-ann-ansell — Cover image provided by Scott Ramsay, LoveWildAfrica.com, (right) Bob Humphries and Sally Robinson at Red Rocks near Shingwedzi Rest Camp ©Ann Ansell

leopard-crossing-road-kruger-sally-robinson — This leopard was in a tree on the right-hand side of the road before crossing just in front of us and climbing another large tree on the other side. I always think that one doesn’t find a leopard – they decide whether to show themselves to you, and it is always special when they do. ©Sally Robinson

Kruger offers us a fantastic opportunity to drive ourselves, stay in a small, thatched rondavel, and cook simple food. The trappings of Western life don’t belong here – television, the 24-hour news cycle, instant access to everything, constant phone calls and emails, and so on. We feel a deep, almost primaeval, satisfaction in finding our ‘own’ birds and wildlife. It feels good to connect with our pure instincts and be reminded of adrenalin’s real purpose – not for stress in the workplace, but for basic survival in the wild.

You do not know what will expose itself from one moment to the next. Each day, what you see or don’t see is determined by the stops you make along the way, a bit of skill and some luck. Ultimately, this combination determines whether you have the most amazing time with a leopard or miss out on seeing it!

We may have stayed in some upmarket places over our years of visiting Africa, but the place we always miss and yearn for is Kruger, where our souls get mended and restored without having to do anything to make it happen.

impala-kruger-national-park — Impalas are always beautiful and graceful. They are at the bottom of the food chain for many carnivores and are often referred to as the ‘McDonalds of the bush’ because of the ‘M’ shape on their rumps and because there’s one on every corner! ©Sally Robinson

Let’s take it back to the start

How did our obsession with Kruger begin? We first visited South Africa in 1994 as members of an Australian-South African scientific symposium on river classification and management. The meeting was to start in Kruger at the conference centre in Skukuza, so we decided to arrive a few days early. As soon as we had flown into the park and collected our rental minivan at Skukuza Airport, we headed off for a life-changing experience.

We drove out of the Skukuza Airport gate and agreed that the first one to find a big animal would buy the other dinner. Sally saw an impala after about 30 metres but protested that it wasn’t really that big! Then, almost immediately, she spotted a colossal giraffe browsing on thorns – now that is a big animal. She bought dinner.

We vividly remember stopping on the Sabie River causeway near the airport and being transfixed by the amazing birds we’d never seen before. One was black and white with a long tail and a lolly-pink beak, and the other was a pied kingfisher hovering before diving to catch a fish. We didn’t know where to look! As we arrived at Johannesburg airport very early that morning, we’d had a chance to load up on bird books and mammal guides at the airport bookshop, but we had no idea how to look up a bird we’d never seen before. With Bob driving, it fell to Sally to thumb through the book until she found the bird with the lolly-pink beak. It was a male pin-tailed whydah, and this method of thumbing through the bird guide became a great way to familiarize ourselves with a range of new birds quickly.

roller-kruger-sally-robinson — European rollers are prominent, often noisy birds that migrate from Europe and North Africa each year ©Sally Robinson

lion-drinking-kruger-sally-robinson — A male lion drinks from a puddle, causing a traffic jam on the bridge over the Vurhami River north of Crocodile Bridge on the H4-2 ©Sally Robinson

All about Kruger

Kruger has a subtropical climate and a wide range of habitats that change from west to east and south to north as the underlying geology, soils, and average rainfall varies. In general, the park is relatively flat. Still, the topographic monotony is broken by the Lebombo Mountains bordering Mozambique to the east, the Muntshe and Nkumbe hills, the hilly southwest area around Pretoriuskop and Berg-en-Dal, and the spectacular escarpment overlooking the Olifants River, which is one of our favourite views in the world.

Kruger is relatively well-vegetated and lacks the sweeping plains of East Africa. The southern half of the park supports thorny acacia and bush-willow savannah, and this zone has a greater variety of plants than the seemingly endless mopane scrubland that lies further to the north. Open grassland with large herds of wildlife is rare but can be seen around the park’s centre. The ‘bushy’ nature of Kruger means that it is often harder to find animals – some estimate that only 2% of the park is visible from its extensive network of tar and dirt roads. However, despite this, the fantastic array of birds is always visible, and you usually spot animals every 15 to 20 minutes unless the weather is poor.

The varied habitats support an extraordinary range of plants and animals – about 500 species of birds, more than 145 mammals, lots of frogs and reptiles, and innumerable insects. On our last trip, we spotted 45 mammal species and over 300 birds, and there are very few places in the world where this is possible!

two-hippos-kruger-sally-robinson — Two hippos mouthing as a way of checking who’s bigger ©Sally Robinson

banded-mongooses-sally-robinson — A pack of banded mongooses appeared out of nowhere – they are always fun to watch! ©Sally Robinson

saddle-billed-stork-sally-robinson — The saddle-billed stork is another favourite of ours. Without the yellow beak plate and wattles, it is very similar to the Australian black-necked stork, which used to be called the Jabiru. ©Sally Robinson

Where to stay

The 13 main rest camps are well located throughout the park to provide easy access to this spectacular diversity and enable drivers to travel from east to west across the ecozones or from north to south. The fact that the park has been mapped into ecozones makes it unique, and the ecozone guidebook is cheap. The main camps provide accommodation options of bungalows, permanent tents and DIY camping grounds. The available cottages, usually thatched, are comfortable, well-priced and adequately equipped (except none have a sharp knife). There are also five rustic bush camps and luxury game lodges on private concessions, so there is plenty of choice.

Find out about the Greater Kruger for your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

olifants-camp-kruger-sally-robinson — The front row of huts at Olifants Rest Camp is midway up the park and is one of our favourites. We’ve even seen lions eating their kill from here and spotted rhinos across the river. ©Sally Robinson

bob-humphries-sally-robinson-kruger — (left) Bob Humphries enjoys a glass of wine ©Sally Robinson, (right) Sally Robinson wraps up warm on a freezing cold day in Pretoriuskop following temperatures of 40ºC the previous day ©Bob Humphries

We mostly stay in the park for five to six weeks, beginning in the south at Crocodile Bridge or Berg-en-Dal and gradually working our way north to Shingwedzi Rest Camp or Punda Maria Rest Camp, staying three to five nights in each camp, before turning south again. This maximises the opportunity to discover the local specials, and avoids the problem of packing, moving and unpacking all of the time. Instead, we unpack once at the beginning and rely on using themed carriers, such as what we call a ‘bathroom bag’ and a ‘kitchen bag’. We then only pack up when we have to leave.

satara-camp-kruger-sally-robinson — Another of our favourite places to stay is Satara Camp. The area around Satara is usually good for larger herds of grazing animals and, therefore, lions too! Many of the huts are close to the fence, and kills can sometimes be seen along the fence line. ©Sally Robinson

huge-baobab-at-mopani-rest-camp — The massive baobab at Mopani Rest Camp is full of nests and like a city in its own right. The distribution of baobabs and elephants is closely linked as elephants disperse the seed pods, ©Sally Robinson

When to visit

Our favourite time to visit is in late October to early November onwards, as we hope to catch the beginning of the rains when the biology of the park just explodes. Within a few days of the start of the season, impala ewes have lambed, green grass appears, leopard tortoises drink from puddles on the road, migratory birds arrive, and the stunning weaver finches begin breeding. This is not the easiest time to see mammals, as it’s sweltering and there is water everywhere, which means that the game is less dependent on formal watering points. Still, the considerable level of activity and the diversity of sightings outweighs this. Whereas in February and March the grass is tall, so we find spotting game to be challenging.

Many people consider the dry winter months best for game viewing due to the bush being less dense and the tendency for wildlife to congregate at waterholes.

However, due to the local school holidays in June and July, and the fact that this is low-risk malaria season, this is also the busiest time at Kruger.

grooming-time-sally-robinson — It’s grooming time for this alpha male vervet monkey, while the small one in the foreground is eating flakes of salt from his fur ©Sally Robinson

bob-in-ratel-hide-sally-robinson — Bob is videoing from inside the Ratelpan Hide on the Timbavati River. This is a good spot from which to see the details of thick-billed weavers building their nests and elephants threatening to destroy them, and it also provides nice shade on a warm day! ©Sally Robinson

A bit of advice from the pros

We discovered early on that the best way to have a profoundly satisfying visit to Kruger is to be interested in everything. This is because finding things isn’t as easy as it seems in wildlife television programmes about Africa. Some days there is so much happening that we hardly know where to look, whereas, on slow days with little mammal or bird activity, we choose to focus on the plants and insects instead.

We have lost count of the number of times that we’ve stopped to observe a bird to be asked by someone what we are looking at before they drive off as soon as they realise it’s ‘only a bird’. But then a lion pops its head up from under the bush that the bird was in! Patient observation is the way to go, and taking the time to watch the natural behaviours, even of common animals, is rewarding and often surprising.

Kruger National Park has fantastic maps and guidebooks for sale, and South African National Parks has an excellent website. We mostly self-cater by shopping in one of the towns bordering the park at the beginning of our stay, and sometimes again half-way through our holiday. The park shops have a limited range of food and sometimes run out of things during busy times, so it’s essential to plan. We also pre-order good wine as the park shops don’t tend to stock South Africa’s best drops. The park restaurants are fine, but it’s part of our ritual to light the braai and wait for the coals to form as we sip gin and tonics, listening to the night sounds and reliving the day.

Please don’t speed – show respect and give animals the space to move

Safety around the wildlife is critical, so please don’t speed – show respect and give animals the space to move. Don’t reverse if a bull elephant blocks the road; this signals fear and submission, which keeps the elephant engaged. Instead, turn around and drive two to three kilometres away before turning off the engine and waiting 10 to 15 minutes for the bull to become bored and go back into the bush.

What to bring

– A pair of good binoculars are essential to see things up close – we suggest 8x32s as they are not too heavy.
– Hire a large, tall vehicle – we like the VW Kombi T5 the best.
– Be prepared for a range of hot, cool and wet weather.
– Carry insect repellent and a cortisone cream to treat bites.
– Take wildlife and plant guides, or download some of them as smartphone apps.
– Bring a camera with at least a 300mm lens to avoid getting disappointingly distant shots.
– Stock up on food and supplies outside of the park, and take a couple of cooler boxes as you may want access to food and drinks when you are not allowed out of your vehicle.

(Above) A young, very relaxed lion already bears scars from fights ©Sally Robinson, (Below) A map of Kruger National Parks ©SANParks

About the authors

Sally Robinson cut her teeth on zoos and Gerald Durrell’s books and loves seeing animals in their natural environment. She was Deputy Chairman of the Western Australian Environmental Protection Authority and works as an independent environmental consultant. She has won awards for her work in environmental protection and policy development. She is now a wildlife photographer.

Dr Robert (Bob) Humphries is a systems ecologist with a PhD in frog ecology. He has worked as an environmental consultant for the Western Australian EPA and the Australian water industry. At heart, he’s a naturalist, so his recent retirement is great – it means more time in the bush with his video camera.

An open letter to point out flaws in legalising the rhino horn trade

Dear Mr Hume, let’s talk about trade in rhino horn – by Alisha Kirk

My thoughts here, written in my own capacity, are neither intended criticism nor an inference of ill-intent. Your achievements confirm your commitment.

For clarity, I have no association with commercial wildlife farming/ranching. I’m not a veterinarian, a scientist, a government official, a lobbyist, affiliated with an NGO or a member of any APU unit. I’m also not involved in conservation unless, of course, you wish to include donations to various conservation bodies, which, I must admit, I have been guilty of in the past.

I am, however, a South African, and proudly so. Each sunrise still holds promise for a brighter future. My children understand this, too. To pay for this privilege, I trade globally. I know stock markets, trading floors and exchange regulations as well as anybody anywhere, and I sleep with one eye open, watchful for substantive change in commodities, equities, traded products, derivatives, currencies and debt. This is my world.

We agree that rhinoceros are being poached for their horns; composed mostly of keratin, the same protein in our hair and fingernails. In the past, western society believed, erroneously, as it turns out, that the demand for rhino horn was ostensibly driven by the sexual desires of Asian men. During the same period, Yemeni demand for dagger handles made of rhino horn, considered a symbolic rite of passage, also contributed to global demand. Until very recently, it was thought that Eastern medicinal requirements primarily drove demand for horn. Rhino horn is said to ‘cool the blood’ and break a fever. Notwithstanding, Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM ) does advocate an alternative. Modern demand theory challenges the notion that TCM demands are causal in the main. It’s now believed that rhino horn symbolises status for the elite. The ‘cure for cancer’ theory emanating out of Vietnam has also largely been discounted.

To clarify then, rhino horn is not an aphrodisiac. Yemeni demand for dagger handles has all but disappeared, and even though rhino horn has been used in TCM in the past, today’s practitioners prescribe alternatives. Most agree that rhino horn does not cure cancer. Modern theory holds that it is considered symbolic of status. What’s clear is that the demand for rhino horn is tangible.

Over the last century, 90% of the world’s rhinoceros were killed/harvested, mostly for their horn. As a result of this decline, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES), of which South Africa is a founding member, instituted a complete ban on all trade in rhinoceros products. For a time, pressure on the wild herd was seemingly controlled. In South Africa, the success was even better than most had hoped for. Consequently and simplistically for our purposes here, CITES downgraded the white rhinoceros to Appendix II, which allowed for limited trade. South Africans are, if nothing else, tenacious in business. Specific animals, considered surplus then, were offered to the private sector, and the local herd expanded.

Whilst South Africa enjoyed success, the rest of Africa’s rhinoceros population declined. Different theories account for this decline. Some say corruption, ease of access, leaky borders, less likelihood of getting caught etc. accounted for most. Nobody knows for sure. What’s clear, however, is that demand for rhino horn during that period was robust.

Back in South Africa, whilst rhinos were getting more costly to harvest illegally elsewhere because there were simply too few to harvest cost-effectively, our herd had expanded. Even though the harvest in the rest of Africa was patently illegal, the downgrading of our white rhino herd to Appendix II legitimised the harvest of trophy rhinoceros, subject to local permit approval, by sportsmen prepared to pay for the privilege. The illegal trade immediately focused on South Africa, which had inadvertently offered the illegal trade some legitimacy; most claim unintentionally. Pseudo-hunts for pseudo-sportsmen were facilitated locally, and rhinoceros were shot for horn to (illegally) supply what was becoming an insatiable Eastern demand. The South African authorities, belatedly appraised, instituted a ban on these pseudo-hunts, but the damage was done. The illegal trade had established local contact, formulated transfer channels and entrenched local infrastructure. Illegal harvest or poaching of the South African herd had begun in earnest.

In the current environment, demand for rhino horn is robust, and supply is imperfect, bottle-necked through illegal channels.

Economic theory tells us that markets exist mostly to facilitate supply and demand. In early times, we bartered one bundle of goods for another. The constituents or volume of the bundle determined the exchange. Today, we establish a price at the point of exchange, which the buyer pays in currency – usually the US dollar. Price, in turn, considers scarcity, real or perceived. In theory, the more scarce the bundle of goods, the higher the exchange price. The theory holds true in all markets, legal or otherwise, as long as demand is constant (or rising) i.e, not price sensitive.

On the ground, the supply of rhino horn is constrained and wholly dependent on illegal harvesting or poaching. It’s safe to assume that demand is constant at the current price, or prices would have fallen. The CITES ban has limited the supply of rhino horn to the end-user (currently illegal everywhere). The illegal trade facilitates the supply through a complex, convoluted maze of diverse and largely independent groups of harvesters in the field. Infrastructural corruption up the chain facilitates the transfer of product through the distribution channels to the end-user.

This is where you come in. You say to lift the CITES ban on rhinoceros trade. Legitimise the demand at the end-user. Eliminate the illegal supply chain. Establish a Central Selling Organisation mandated to control the supply of approved product through legal channels and to approved distributors only, who in turn supply the end-user markets. De-horn rhinoceros safely and without any negative effect on the donor-animal and collapse prices by volume of supply. Funds raised from the legal sales would contribute to current conservation in any one of a number of ways, either by bolstering fortress conservation (security) or for the purchase of land etc. Your point is well made but, dare I say it, flawed.

Allow me to clarify as best as I can. For ease of reference, the points will be annotated.

1. Nobody detracts from the success of your herd. I certainly don’t. Even so, as the owner of South Africa’s largest privately owned herd, you stand to benefit more than most from a resumption of trade. It’s a conflict of interest, which I can’t, in good conscience, ignore. Whilst the authorities deliberate, perhaps you would consider recusing yourself from the discussion and withdrawing from the media?

2. It’s true that rhino horn can be harvested as and when the animal regenerates its horn over the course of its life. It’s also true that the animal doesn’t have to be killed to do so. Notwithstanding, unless SANPARKS and/or Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife intend to dehorn their herd in the field, which you’ll agree is an unlikely occurrence, the only benefit to either would be the sale of surplus animals to private owners. To participate equitably, these rhinos would need to be sold at prices at, or in excess of, the current price of horn. A single animal yields approximately 4-6kg of horn? At current prices of US$30,000-US$50,000 per kilogram, that equates to approximately ZAR1,500,000 to ZAR2,500,000 per animal or circa 10 times the current price of the live animal.

3. On my point 2. above, you might be inclined to point out that an increase in supply should, by definition, drop the price of the product to more ‘reasonable’ levels. That’s true if demand stays constant, but it’s an assumption best left in the bin where it belongs. There is no irrefutable evidence that demand won’t increase, perhaps dramatically so, if ever trade was legalised. A possible/’probable’ shift outwards of the demand curve would leave prices unchanged at best or resume its upward spiral as new users enter the market.

4. The global regulatory environment is constantly in flux. It’s safe to expect some significant change within my own industry. The CSO concept as a stand-alone entity will soon be obsolete. A fairly common criticism of the CSO structure is its bias towards some form of complicity, either in open forum or disguised by internal policies. In truth, most operate as cartels, controlling both price and supply. Manipulation is simply endemic in such a structure. The same cartel-like complicity will manifest in the demand markets. Selling to ‘selected’ distributors has the same causal effect.

5. It does not follow that illegal syndicates will become redundant when trade is legalised. On the contrary, the scope to ‘launder’ illegally harvested product through official channels becomes entrenched, particularly in a corrupt environment or when large sums of money are involved. At the same time, your cost of harvesting horn or your production costs are significantly higher, I suspect, than the price of a bullet plus one or two thousand dollars for the trigger-men.

6. You have said that illegal trade will be eradicated in a legal trade environment. I don’t see why. The infrastructural environment under the auspices of legal trade would, in all likelihood, be no different from the current. Illegal networks are well established. Fortunately, some commendable work has been done by the authorities to break down these structures, but they still exist and will continue to exist until they don’t and certainly for reasons other than resumption in trade.

7. The most blatant flaws in your argument I’ve left to last, and they detract from the rest of your argument. Cattle farming has little to do with conservation. Farming lions for the ‘legal trade’ is, by anybody’s definition, not conservation. The same applies to the farming of chickens or pigs or sheep or, in this case, rhinoceros. Farming rhinoceros to shave their horns is as far removed from conservation as farming crocodiles for their belly skins. Yes, they’re not domesticated, but they’re hardly free-roaming ‘wild’ animals, either. Your herd is supplementary-fed and controlled in relatively small paddocks. Mauricedale is obviously a well-run farming operation.

8. Now, if you were to publicly distinguish your herd from the free-roaming herd and openly commoditise your rhinoceros, then your herd becomes a product, like eggs or bacon. Yes, it’s still an illegal commodity, but your exhortations in the public domain to reopen trade would be inscrutable. Intentions are made clearer, are based on sound business principles and are more readily understood in the public eye. However, masking intent by including conservation benefits and the project- integration of the local community in the same dialogue is misleading, although unintended perhaps.

9. In passing, I am confident that the authorities in control of the valuable stockpile of rhinoceros horn will remain steadfast in their application, thus avoiding any potential conflicts of interest. These same officials hold the elective right to lobby CITES to renew trade.

Also read – Opinion: Rhino horn trade = extinction in the wild

Lions, trophy hunting and the US government – the 27 facts you need to know

The US government has changed the rules relating to lion trophy imports. I have attempted to summarise their report of circa 64,000 words into 1,700 words, including 27 important facts about lions and trophy hunting that everyone should know.

The US government’s Fish and Wildlife Service (USFW) recently reclassified the subspecies of lions occurring in southern and eastern Africa to ‘Threatened’ (likely to become ‘Endangered’ in the foreseeable future) and the subspecies occurring in the rest of Africa and India to ‘Endangered’ (on the brink of extinction). At the same time, USFW changed rules relating to the import of sport-hunted trophies to address a perceived shortcoming in the sustainability of trophy hunting of wild lions.

In arriving at these conclusions, USFW considered a raft of information from scientific sources, which they presented in a lengthy and absorbing report. I would encourage you to set aside a few hours and read the USFW document as it contains many informative facts that I have excluded out of necessity or, at best, considerably shortened.

Here, then, is my summary:

1. Historical lion ranges included most African countries from Greece through Eastern Europe, the Middle East and India.

2. The lion has since been extirpated from all of Europe, the Middle East and North Africa and now occurs only in the Gir Forests of India and in some countries of sub-Saharan Africa.

3. In Africa, lions now occur in 8% of their historical range and are restricted mainly to protected areas and surrounding conservancies.

4. Lions are difficult to count – due to low densities, extensive ranges, cryptic colouration, and wary nocturnal habits. The earliest estimates of lion abundance in Africa were educated guesses made during the latter half of the 20th century, as follows:

i) Myers (1975) wrote: “Since 1950, their numbers may well have been cut in half, perhaps to as low as 200,000 in all or even less.”

ii) Ferreras and Cousins predicted lion abundance in Africa in 1980 to be 75,800.

iii) Riggio et al. (2013)—estimated lion population sizes ranging from 23,000 to 40,000

iv) Bauer et al. (2015) estimated the lion population in Africa to be between 18,841 and 31,394 (although many believe that 20,000 is closer to the mark).

v) In 2015, the Government of Gujarat completed its latest census, estimating 523 lions in India.

5. Sample populations were measured between 1993 and 2014, with varied results, but broadly suggest that unfenced populations declined rapidly and fenced populations did not.

6. Lion populations in all but five countries are estimated to have dropped by 60% between 1994 and 2014, while populations in five countries (India, Botswana, South Africa, Namibia and Zimbabwe) are estimated to have increased by an average of 12%. These numbers are rough estimates.

7. The largest lion population in Africa is found in Botswana’s Okavango Delta, which experienced a reduction over that period, and it is estimated that even this area will lose a further one-third of its population over the next 20 years.

8. In East Africa, the lion population of the Serengeti is the only one not to have decreased over that period.

9. Trophy hunting was included in the list of the four main threats that lions face – the others being habitat loss, loss of prey base and human-lion conflict. Other related factors include harmful effects due to small populations and climate change, inadequate regulatory mechanisms and weak management of protected areas.

10. Documented declines in lion populations of Africa are a result, in part, of mismanaged trophy hunting (numerous studies listed).

11. As of May 2014, approximately 18 African countries allowed the legal hunting of lions for trophies (although hunts only took place in nine of those). Of these, all but three experienced rapid population declines between 1994 and 2014.

12. Where trophy hunting occurs, quotas are set by the government. The scientific community has raised two primary concerns about the current lion quotas. These are that (1) existing quotas are set above sustainable levels, and (2) the data used for setting quotas is inconsistent and not scientifically based.

13. Of the nine countries allowing trophy hunting of lions in 2013, eight have quotas set higher than current recommendations.

14. South Africa’s lion hunting industry is predominantly captive-bred lions, with little impact on wild lion populations.

15. Proponents support trophy hunting as a conservation tool for the lion if it is practised in a sustainable and scientifically based manner because it can provide incentives for the conservation of large tracts of prime habitat and funding for park and reserve management, anti-poaching activities, and security activities.

16. As habitat loss has been identified as one of the primary threats to lion populations, it is notable that the total amount of land set aside for hunting throughout Africa exceeds the total area of the national parks and accounts for approximately half of the amount of viable habitat currently available to lions.

17. When the value of lions in areas outside national parks is diminished, those areas are likely to be converted to forms of land use less suitable for lions, such as agriculture, livestock pastures, or areas of resource extraction, making lions even more vulnerable to expanding human settlement

18. The report identified six key trophy hunting practices undermining the sustainable management of lions:

i) A lack of scientifically based quota that results in excessive harvests;

ii) A lack of enforcement of age restrictions, which leads to unsustainable harvests, increased rates of infanticide, and population declines;

iii) Hunting of female lions in Namibia, which decreases reproduction success, thereby reducing males available for trophy hunting;

iv) The use of fixed quotas (fee has to be paid regardless of whether a lion is killed), which encourages hunters to be unselective in their take of a trophy (i.e., they will kill younger, less desirable males);

v) A lack of minimum hunt lengths or minimum lengths that are too short to allow hunters the time needed to be more selective in their take of trophies;

vi) General problems associated with management of trophy hunting, including corruption, allocation of concessions, and lack of benefits to communities and recognition of their vital role in conservation.

19. As individuals who display certain characteristics (such as largest size) are more likely to be harvested by trophy hunters, this selective removal will bring about genetic change in future generations, as those individuals are no longer contributing to the gene pool.

20. Trophy hunting concession areas are leased to operators without regard for the operators’ track record in conservation.

21. The main problem with mismanaged trophy hunting stems from excessive harvests and impacts associated with the removal of males.

22. Male dispersal is important in determining the level of inbreeding in lion populations. The fewer males present to contribute genes to the next generation, the more inbred the population will be. Therefore, not only does dispersal impact inbreeding, but so does the loss of male lions due to excessive trophy hunting and infanticide.

23. Unless reforms are made to the current management of trophy hunting, excessive harvests will further contribute to declines in the species across its African range.

24. Certain aspects of the current lion bone trade suggest that the potential for the trade to impact wild lion populations may be high.

25. Evidence also indicates “well-established” links between South Africa’s legal lion bone trade and the Xaysavang Network. This international wildlife trafficking syndicate is also involved in the illicit rhino horn trade in South Africa.

26. Although the current lion bone trade is predominantly from captive-bred lions, evidence suggests the incentive to poach wild lions for the bone trade may exist.

27. Based on the effect of the tiger bone trade on tiger populations, if current conditions continue unchanged, there is considerable potential for extensive poaching of wild lions to meet demand.

Some of my thoughts:

The thoughts below do not represent an Africa Geographic house view or mirror the thoughts of any passionate team members working with me.

There is no doubt that this is a complex issue. But, as is often the case, it is possible to rise above the emotion and complexities to single out the elephant in the room.

When it comes to wild free-roaming lions, it has become clear that the theory of a well-managed and sustainable trophy hunting industry is just that – theory. In practice, except for a few well-managed areas, the trophy hunting of wild lions is speeding up the demise of wild populations across Africa. Please read the USFW report if you would like further evidence for this.

Surely, it’s pointless going on further about how trophy hunting could contribute to a lion conservation strategy. We know that free-roaming lion populations are crashing and that trophy hunting plays a role. In other words, trophy hunting of wild free-roaming lions has become part of the problem. Again, I’d highly recommend reading the USFW report if you have any doubts.

Perhaps it’s time to recognise that a total ban on trophy hunting of wild free-roaming lions should be implemented until these populations recover. Or even forever. I’d like to think that humans have evolved and no longer see the need for this relic from the distant past.

It’s clear from the past few years that the rules of engagement have changed and that trophy hunters and their families will increasingly be targeted for special treatment – often by aggressive activists, but increasingly by Joe Soap, who just doesn’t buy the “trophy hunting is conservation” story any more. It’s also clear that free-roaming wild lion populations are not what they used to be – and that the trophy hunting industry needs to start recognising that fact.

We all must recognise this need for change and adapt to modern-day dynamics and realities. Perhaps, mainly due to seismic events such as Cecil the Lion, we are seeing the beginning of a massive change in an industry that needs a good shakedown.

Keep the passion

Local community rallies together to save elephants that are stuck in the mud

In November 2015, a valiant attempt was made to rescue and resuscitate two elephants stuck in the mud at the Gubu mouth of the Ume River in Zimbabwe. Sadly, due to the intense heat, the elephants were too far gone to carry on, but this wasn’t for lack of everyone trying. Written by Nick Milne

What is incredibly humbling is how our little community just pulls out all the stops and bands together when we need to. Rae from the African Lion & Environmental Research Trust, Levi from Rhino Safari Camp, all staff from Bumi Hills Safari Lodge and Spa and Bumi Hills Anti Poaching Unit (BHAPU), Matusadona National Parks rangers, Pierre and Ian from the Ume Croc Farm, various houseboat guests including Lauren Luitingh and Taryn Luitingh, and all the local subsistence fishermen literally risked life and limb tying ropes onto the flailing legs and trunks of the two elephants. They pulled and pushed and dug through the mud for hours on what would have probably been the hottest two days of the year so far in Zimbabwe.

You win some, you lose some, and it is with a very heavy heart that I have to say that we lost this battle. There comes a point in every rescue operation where all you do is delay the inevitable and prolong the suffering. These two elephants were sadly too far gone, so the decision was made to put them down.

We tried everything we could, from feeding them oranges to giving them enemas to try to give them enough energy to get back up on their feet. We were so close so many times, but they were just too dehydrated and exhausted to continue their fight for survival.

Nevertheless, on behalf of everyone who pulled out all the stops to try to save these two elephants, we wish to thank Lisa from the Aware Trust Zimbabwe, Debbie and Andries from KAWFT for their advice and support, and everyone else involved for doing everything they could to help.

Exploring Etosha

I enter a barren land where white clay meets an ice-blue sky. The ‘Great White Place’ gives new meaning to ‘bone dry’. At the end of a ruthless dry spell, the land is crying out for the taste of rain, but there are no signs of a storm brewing. Africa is renowned for its big skies, and never more so than at Etosha.

On the ground, primal energy rules. The awkward stoop of thirsty, drinking giraffes makes them easy prey for Etosha’s lions, and bones lie scattered around the waterhole. Hyenas, jackals and vultures are queuing up for their turn at the buffet, that is, if the lions leave anything behind.

Etosha Lions are in for a feast ©Janine Avery — Lions are in for a feast ©Janine Avery

Etosha - Namibia's national animal holds fort ©Janine Avery — Namibia’s national animal holds fort ©Janine Avery

A young kudu bleats, stuck up to its shoulders in the middle of the shrinking waterhole. A hyena looks on, sensing easy prey, while the kudu’s father stands watch with his snaking horns, and a skinny warthog tentatively drinks nearby. The young kudu makes it out safely, the hyena skulks away, and I, too, move on past the Etosha Pan, which is so large that it can be seen from outer space.

There is no car in sight, and I could be forgiven for thinking that I own the land, until a stubborn rhino lets me know that he does. I understand my place and pay my respects to Namibia’s national animal as an oryx ambles past, followed by elephants of varying shades, from ivory white to ebony black – depending on which waterhole they decided to bathe in.

Members of a mongoose family go about their business, while a lazy few lie flat in the shade of a cool termite mound, and a hyena drags around a zebra skin, her rotund belly scraping the ground.

A wildlife haven that represents raw Africa

This is Etosha National Park – a unique reserve in Namibia home to a 100-million-year-old salt pan and a turbulent history, remembered on the monuments throughout the park’s rest camps. It is a photographer’s dream come true, a birder’s delight, a wildlife haven and a place that, for me, represents raw Africa.

Etosha mayhem-at-the-waterhole-anja-denker — It all kicks off at the waterhole ©Anja Denker

What to see and how to see it

The ‘white elephants’ that garner their colour from the clay of the salt pan, which acts as a form of sunscreen and which they liberally smear over their bodies to cool down, should be at the top of anyone’s Etosha bucket list. The best place to catch a glimpse of one of these famous ‘ghosts’ is at Nebrownii waterhole, where that iconic Etosha scene will unfold before your eyes with ostriches, springbok, zebra, gemsbok, giraffe, wildebeest and zebra all congregating for their share of the life-giving waters.

If you are visiting during the dry season, it is best to hunker down at one of the many waterholes – including natural springs and man-made boreholes – and wait to see what comes for a visit. The stretch covering the Sueda, Salvadora and Rietfontein waterholes provides a wealth of sightings, and we were lucky to see two lionesses with their cubs on this stretch of road.

A lioness passes with her cubs in tow ©Janine Avery

A 'white elephant' keeps the ostriches company at an Etosha waterhole ©Janine Avery — A ‘white elephant’ keeps the ostriches company at the waterhole ©Janine Avery

Chudob was another winning choice for our trip, as it was situated within easy reach of the Von Lindequist Gate and our accommodation at Mokuti Etosha Lodge, located just outside the national park. Here, we could watch the wildlife come and go as the sun set in the background, while still having enough time to make it to the gate before closing.

The man-made Halali waterhole is situated at Halali Rest Camp and is a great place to sit with a sundowner or snack and a pair of binoculars. But be careful not to leave your food unattended, as a pair of honey badgers are known to go after anything they can!
If you’re a birder, you’ll find Fisher’s Pan an absolute delight during the rainy season when the pan welcomes thousands of flamingoes and other wetland birds and migratory species.

The plains between Halali and Okaukuejo camps are a great place to spot smaller creatures such as the bat-eared fox. At the same time, the western side of Etosha has recently opened to the public and provides a different type of landscape thanks to its red soil and undulating terrain. On this side of the park, you will find Hartmann’s mountain zebra, black rhino and black-faced impala.

Before visiting the park, it is essential to note the fees that are based on your nationality and vehicle. These fees are paid at the camps within the park, and proof of payment needs to be presented when exiting.

It is also important to respect the opening and closing times of the park, which are based on sunrise and sunset and so change with the seasons.

The recently opened western side of the park ©Anja Denker — Wildlife in the recently opened western side of the park ©Anja Denker

When to go

Winter: May to October is the dry season, providing the most action in Etosha as the wildlife congregates around the waterholes. This is the busiest season for visitors due to the excellent visibility for sightings and the mild weather. I visited the park in November, which is the end of the dry season in the region, but the park still had not seen any rain. While waterholes were low, the game looked healthy. However, there was little game to be seen between these sources.

Summer: January and February are the height of the rainy season. In these months, Etosha’s usually dry salt pan is transformed into an exquisite birder’s haven with thousands of flamingoes and migratory birds. The European bee-eater is a particular delight! However, it is harder to guarantee game sightings during this quieter period, as the animals do not need to visit the waterholes. Consequently, more driving is necessary, and you can expect temperatures during the day to reach up to 40°C.

Etosha - A damara dik-dik ©Anja Denker — A Damara dik-dik ©Anja Denker

Etosha - Life at the life-giving Chudop waterhole ©Anja Denker — Life at the life-giving Chudop waterhole ©Anja Denker

I broke the journey into two parts by stopping at Okonjima, home of the AfriCat Foundation, on the way up. At Okonjima, various accommodation options are available, from camping to your private bush villa. Money raised from their lodgings goes to supporting the work of AfriCat, which focuses on the conservation of Namibia’s large carnivores, conservation education and the mitigation of human-wildlife conflict in Namibia. AfriCat also has another base on Etosha’s south-western border, aiming to mitigate conflict between local farmers and lions. Okonjima is currently home to leopards, lions, hyenas and wild dogs – many of which have been rescued, while some are natural residents of the reserve. These carnivores, which may otherwise have been confined to a life in captivity, can become self-sustaining in Okonjima’s protected area. And I managed to tick three of Namibia’s big cats off my list before I even reached Etosha. This was great as it meant that I wasn’t so focused on predator sightings during my time in the national park. The shorter drive also meant that I had time to enter the park through Anderson Gate and spend the rest of the day driving to exit at Von Lindequist Gate near Namutoni, where Mokuti Etosha Lodge was awaiting my arrival.

Find your ready-made Etosha safari, or ask us to build one just for you.

A collared cheetah at Okonjima ©Anja Denker — A collared cheetah roams its home at Okonjima ©Anja Denker

Poison destroys another Kenyan lion pride

The dead flies are the first sign, their blue bodies reflecting the sun in glittering piles. This was followed by that sinking feeling upon discovering a cow carcass eaten by more than just flies. Another example of the use of poison in human-wildlife conflict.

Poison — Dead insects, particularly flies, are always the first sign of a livestock carcass poisoned to kill returning predators.

On the morning of 9th December, a community informer came to Big Life Foundation, an NGO operating in the greater Amboseli ecosystem of Kenya and Tanzania, with worrying information. Multiple livestock had been killed the night before, and lions were responsible for some of the deaths.

The call came from an area to the north of the core Amboseli ecosystem, a human-dominated place where there are no livelihood benefits associated with wildlife, and communities deal only with the costs. Knowing the threats this set of circumstances posed, the informer was immediately sent to investigate further.

He visited each livestock carcass, and the owners all appeared calm. Some had slaughtered what remained of their animals, and no one was talking about retaliation. But he missed one cow carcass.

The next day, there were rumours of poison, and staff from Big Life, Lion Guardians, and the Kenya Wildlife Service scrambled to get back to the scene. The rangers discovered the remains of a poisoned cow carcass, with lion tracks next to it. It wasn’t long before three dead lions were found, including two young cubs.

Tracks indicated that at least one (thought to be the pride male) survived, but four other lions remain unaccounted for in the pride.

The only adult female in the pride was also confirmed dead (her carcass is being burnt here), a blow to the future of the pride even if the rest did survive. — The only adult female in the pride was also confirmed dead (her carcass is being burnt here), which is a blow to the future of the pride even if the rest did survive.

The Amboseli lion population has been increasing for the past decade, which serves as a beacon of hope at a time when an IUCN assessment estimates a 59% drop in sample populations across East Africa over the last 20 years. This is a testament to the success of a Big Life livestock compensation programme, and the complementary work of groups such as the Lion Guardians.

But these interventions cannot reach everywhere. Sadly, this tragedy, which comes less than a week after a separate poisoning incident killed three lions in the Maasai Mara, was almost inevitable. Lions (or any predators, for that matter) that stray beyond zones of community tolerance are in immediate danger. Many of the communities in the areas bordering core wildlife habitat can ill afford the economic losses incurred by predators, particularly when any benefits from the presence of wildlife do not balance these.

There are some places in Africa where wild animals have a chance and others where the balance has tipped too far away from natural systems. This is not a situation that needs anger to cloud understanding. These are complex issues, involving the welfare of people and wild animals. Community engagement is the place to start, but unless predator conservation interventions can be scaled up, the reality is that it will always be difficult to prevent the ‘leakage’ effect when species that cause economic damage leave protected havens.

Famous Marsh lions poisoned in Maasai Mara

Lions from the Marsh Pride, made famous by the Big Cat Diary series, have been poisoned in the Maasai Mara, with at least two lions dead as a result.

According to a post on the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust (DSWT) Facebook page, “On Sunday morning at 8 am Patrick Reynolds of Governors Camp in the Maasai Mara received a call that some of the lions from the famous Marsh Pride were acting strangely, collapsing and suffering from spasms. Patrick immediately called the DSWT-funded Mara Mobile Veterinary Unit, headed by Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) Veterinary officer Dr Limo, who was on the scene by 11.30 a.m.

Dr Limo confirmed that up to five lions had suffered from ingesting a poison of some description – including a two-year-old sub-adult male whose mother is Siena, the lioness we have successfully treated on several occasions for severe injuries. Siena remains unaccounted for, while the two-year-old son has responded well to treatment and is looking brighter, having been guarded all night to keep him safe from hyenas as he recuperated.

Dr Limo began treating the lions yesterday, and today the DSWT is flying in emergency supplies of Atropine Sulphate, an additional helpful antidote for poisoning. Tragically, one older lioness from the Marsh Pride has died due to this poisoning incident, and the Mara Veterinary Team is back on site today, treating some more lions from the pride.

KWS reported that three people have been arrested concerning the poisoning of the lions. With lions being endangered, the three, if found guilty, could face fines of USD200,000 or life imprisonment.”

Hyenas, vultures and jackals have already been seen preying on the carcasses of the dead lions, and conservationists expect the death tally to rise.

Collins Omondi, the senior warden at Narok Kenya Wildlife Service, said the lions had been poisoned after they killed some cows grazing in the reserve. The herders have been arrested after they took the cows, laced them with poison and gave them to the pride. Omondi said the herders should have filed for compensation and the KWS veterinary department is conducting tests to identify the poison used.

It is rumoured that these lions had been killing livestock as the Maasai bomas are right on the edge of the reserve, with the cattle being taken into the reserve every night when the likelihood of conflict with predators such as lions and hyenas is at its greatest.

A post by Big Cat Dairy’s Jonathan and Angela Scott on their website said, “The Marsh Pride have always been vulnerable due to their being a boundary pride – their territory spreads beyond the reserve boundary. This is particularly apparent in the wet season when Musiara Marsh (and Bila Shaka at times) becomes waterlogged, and the lions move to higher ground to the north and east. Each year, we lose lions to poisoning or spearing by pastoralists – that was always part of life for the lions. But in the last few years, the situation has escalated beyond all reason, with the Marsh Pride becoming increasingly fragmented by the influx of cattle and herdsmen.”

Saving the cheetah: a need for speed

The cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus) is famous for its speed, reaching over 100 kilometres per hour in short bursts. All parts of its body have evolved for precision and agility, from the small aerodynamic head, lean body and long legs to a tail that works like a boat’s rudder.

People often confuse cheetahs with leopards or jaguars, but several points of physical difference make it easy to distinguish them. In addition to having a light-boned, elongated frame, the cheetah’s undercoat is marked with solid black spots instead of rosettes. Cheetahs also possess distinctive ‘tear marks’ that extend from the corners of their eyes along their nose to their jaw. The biological purpose of these marks is to cut the sun’s glare so that they can see more clearly across long distances.

wim-van-den-heever-cheetah — The tears of a cheetah ©Wim van den Heever

cheetah-spots-andrew-harrington-cheetah-conservation-fund — Connect the spots ©Andrew Harrington, Cheetah Conservation Fund

History of the cheetah

The cheetah was once one of the most widely distributed land animals. Phylogenetic research has shown that the cheetah evolved from a common ancestor with the puma and jaguarundi in the Americas during the Miocene era, which was five to eight million years ago. Over time, the cheetah migrated, crossing land bridges from North America into China, through India and Europe, before finally settling in Africa as recently as 20,000 years ago.

Genetic research indicates that today’s cheetahs are descendants of but a few animals that survived 12,000 years ago following the last glacial event in the Pleistocene era. The population then experienced what is referred to as a ‘population bottleneck’, a sharp reduction in size. As a result, cheetahs lack genetic diversity, making them more susceptible to certain feline diseases.

The earliest record of human interaction with cheetahs dates back to the Sumerians in 3,000 BC. In Egyptian history, it was believed that the cheetah would swiftly carry away the Pharaoh’s spirit to the afterlife, and symbols of cheetahs have been found on many statues and paintings in tombs. They have also been long revered as hunting companions for royals.

The thrill of the chase ©Wim van den Heever

Nothing can outrun the cheetah ©Suzi Esterhas, Cheetah Conservation Fund

Modern decline

At the beginning of the 20th century, approximately 100,000 cheetahs were found in at least 44 African countries. Today, fewer than 10,000 cheetahs are left on the continent, and they are found in small, fragmented areas spread across only 23 countries, at the most. This represents a decline of 90 percent in the last 100 years.

Although seven subspecies were originally proposed based on morphological criteria, five are currently recognised. The Southern African cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus jubatus) is the largest remaining population and was originally found throughout Southern Africa, but now is mostly limited to Namibia, Botswana and South Africa. The East African cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus raineyii) has the second-largest wild population in Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda and Somalia. The Central African or Sudan cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus soemmeringii) is found in Sudan, Cameroon, Niger, Nigeria, Chad, Ethiopia and the Central African Republic. Approximately 250 North African or Saharan cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus heck) are now found mainly in the central western region of the Saharan desert and the Saheland. And less than 100 Asiatic cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus venaticus) remain in Iran despite being previously spread across Asia.

cheetah-conservation-fund-range-map — Cheetah range map ©Cheetah Conservation Fund

The king cheetah was once thought to be a separate subspecies (acinonyx rex), but is actually a mutation due to the same recessive gene responsible for the two types of coats in domestic tabby cats – the striped mackerel tabby and the swirl-patterned classic tabby. King cheetahs are easily recognisable thanks to their coats, which have large, solid spots, some of which have merged to form dark stripes down the middle of their backs. King cheetahs also have somewhat of a larger build than the average-sized cheetah. Rarely seen in the wild, they are more frequently found in captivity, where they are intentionally bred.

Threats to survival

For many African wildlife species, living within a protected national park or private game reserve, such as the Maasai Mara Game Reserve in Kenya, the Serengeti National Park in Tanzania, or the Kruger National Park in South Africa, is the difference between life and death. However, for species like the cheetah, living in protected areas results in greater competition with other larger and more aggressive predators that steal their kills and kill their cubs. Consequently, 90 percent of all cheetahs live outside of protected parks and reserves, making them more vulnerable to human conflict.

Most people who live alongside cheetahs are rural communal farmers whose livelihoods depend on the health and well-being of their livestock. Most are poor and cannot afford to lose even a small fraction of their animals to predators. These farmers have traditionally viewed cheetahs as vermin, a nuisance and a threat. Some governments sanction herd protection programmes allowing cheetahs on farmlands to be trapped, removed, or killed on sight. Popular during the 1970s and 1980s, these programmes led to a rapid, widespread reduction in the number of wild cheetahs. Still, fortunately, since then, the introduction of non-lethal predator control techniques has stemmed the tide.

cheetah-maasai-mara-neal-cooper-photography — Two become one ©Neal Cooper Photography

cristian-boix-malaika-leaping-in-full-chase — A cheetah takes things in her stride ©Christian Boix

Bush encroachment is a form of desertification caused by the overgrazing of arid landscapes, which results in the prolific growth of native plant species commonly known as thornbush. On traditionally open savannas where cheetahs hunt, bush encroachment alters the landscape and limits the cheetah’s success in hunting, creating an imbalance in the mix of wildlife.

Bush encroachment is devastating for cheetahs as their habitat is now nearly impenetrable. As the cheetah sprints through thornbush, its eyes are scratched, often resulting in permanent damage. The cheetah relies on its eyesight to hunt and detect threats, but with impaired eyesight, cheetahs are more likely to consider livestock prey, becoming a problem animal for farmers, and thus increasing conflict.

Another issue impacting the cheetah is tourism. Everyone who travels to Africa and goes on safari wants to see a cheetah. While tourism helps to bring the species’ international attention and instils economic value in the species’ survival, crowds of multiple vehicles surrounding cheetahs are dangerous for the animal. The disruption of a mating event or a hunt, or getting too close to a mother with offspring, can have a lasting and devastating effect.

cheetah-wim-van-den-heever — Surveying its shrinking kingdom ©Wim van den Heever

Exotic pet trade

Most disconcerting of all, an estimated 300 cheetah cubs are being smuggled out of the continent each year, mostly to the Gulf States – to supply the illegal pet trade. Cheetahs as exotic pets are considered status symbols and live inside private homes, sleeping on furniture or tile floors that bear little resemblance to their natural habitat. Photos on social media depict cheetahs with gem-studded collars riding in speedboats, sitting in luxury vehicles and posing at social functions.

Keeping a wild cheetah as an exotic pet undermines the species. Five out of six poached cubs are believed to die before reaching their final destination, while mother cheetahs are often killed defending their cubs. Cheetah cubs that survive long enough to be sold most likely do not make it beyond two years of age.

Those that do, often become sick or disabled and die from improper care.

cheetah-cub-playing-with-mum-cristian-boix — A cheetah cub plays with its mum and sibling ©Christian Boix

A cheetah cub stares into its future ©Christian Boix

Strategies for survival

Although people are the root of most problems facing the cheetah, they are also the solution. Over the past 12 years, conservation professionals have come together to devise strategies to help the cheetah win its race for survival.

In 1994, the Cheetah Conservation Fund (CCF), a research education and conservation institution based in Namibia, initiated a programme to provide rural farmers with livestock guarding dogs as a non-lethal means for predator control. Two rare, large breeds were chosen, the Kangal and the Anatolian shepherd, because of their loud bark, protective nature and successful history guarding livestock in Turkey – a country with similar climate and terrain.

CCF livestock guarding dogs are credited with saving the lives of hundreds of cheetahs each year. Farmers with a CCF dog report a drop in stock losses due to predation anywhere from 80 to 100 percent, meaning they no longer feel as much pressure to trap or shoot cheetahs. CCF has placed more than 650 of these specially trained dogs and helped launch sister programmes in Botswana, South Africa and Tanzania.

anatolian-shepherd-puppies-eli-walker-cheetah-conservation-fund — Anatolian shepherd dogs to the rescue ©Eli Walker, Cheetah Conservation Fund

Polly and Rohinni are best of buddies at the fund in Namibia ©Cheetah Conservation Fund

In 2001, CCF also launched a project to combat bush encroachment by transforming selectively harvested, excess thornbush into a biomass fuel product. Today, the manufacture of BUSHBLOK™, a clean-burning, low-emission fuel log, helps restore thousands of acres of cheetah habitat each year. In 2012, with support from the Clinton Global Initiative, CCF expanded its BUSHBLOK™ production and is leading the way for an emerging biomass industry in Africa.

Nowadays, conservation priorities in each country where the cheetah is found are under evaluation. According to Dr Laurie Marker, founder and executive director of CCF, ensuring a future for cheetahs requires enhancing the livelihoods of human communities that live alongside them. Her creative approach includes developing alternative income sources in eco-tourism and craft making, providing economic incentives for predator-friendly agricultural products, and training workers to make value-added products derived from livestock, like goat cheese or soap.

CCF recently initiated an eco-label programme to motivate farmers to peacefully coexist with cheetahs. Under CCF’s model, farmers who agree to practise predator-friendly livestock management become certified with a Cheetah Country Beef eco-label and receive premium prices for their meat. “This concept works very well for the tuna industry, which markets dolphin-friendly products with great success,” said Dr. Marker. “We think we can adapt this approach with beef producers to benefit the cheetah in Africa”.

To celebrate the 5th annual International Cheetah Day this 4 December, check out our gallery, which showcases a selection of cheetah images from some of the continent’s most prestigious photographers.

Learn more about the cheetah here

A cheetah on an anthill ©Andrew Harrington, Cheetah Conservation Fund

About the author

Dr Laurie Marker is one of the world’s leading experts on cheetahs. The founder and executive director of Cheetah Conservation Fund (CCF), an award-winning research, education and conservation institution dedicated to ensuring the long-term survival of the cheetah, Dr. Marker has worked with the species in Africa since 1974. In 1990, Dr. Marker established the not-for-profit fund and relocated from the U.S. to Namibia to dedicate her career to saving the wild cheetah. Now the longest-running cheetah conservation organisation, CCF has helped stabilise the population in Southern Africa and is considered a model for large predator conservation.

Climbing Nyiragongo – an active volcano in the DRC

Why on Earth would you want to climb an active volcano in the Democratic Republic of Congo? This is a question that many people asked me when I told them about the smouldering adventure that Africa Geographic crafted for me, which entailed climbing Mount Nyiragongo in Virunga National Park plus meeting one of Africa’s greatest ape species.

My reply was simple: “It is something that not many people get to do – I will finally come face-to-face with mountain gorillas and the largest lava lake in the world, which is actually easier and safer to see nowadays than ever before.”

The area where I was headed lies north of Lake Kivu, the Rwandan and Uganda border confluence that hugs the DRC. Mount Nyiragongo is an active stratovolcano, with an elevation of 3,470m, which looms over the town of Goma and Lake Kivu. It is a mere 30-minute drive from Goma International Airport and an hour’s drive from Mikeno Lodge, where you can meet the valiant staff of Virunga National Park and learn about the many projects that these determined custodians are undertaking to protect the Virunga Mountains and their wildlife.

I entered DRC via Gisenyi after spending a few days with a family group of mountain gorillas in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park. Albeit a bit time-consuming, crossing into the DRC was surprisingly hassle-free, and the Africa Geographic team handled everything very efficiently.

Once through border control, we were met by a charming guide who drove us through Goma’s streets to the Nyiragongo hike’s beginning. The drive to the Kibati Patrol Post at the base of Mt Nyiragongo was quite an eye-opening experience. The pot-holed dirt roads lined with dilapidated buildings were a stark reminder of the devastating effect of years of unrest. The beautiful, green slopes of the Virunga Mountains were a stark contrast as they climbed valiantly towards the heavens and clouds. Staring at so much natural beauty, I could not help but feel the urgency to remove the burden of war to allow the wildlife, people and the region to prosper from eco-tourism.

As we prepared to start our Nyiragongo climb, standing in a clearing of lush tropical rainforest and listening to the ranger’s instructions for the trail, I had the distinct feeling that everyone here was playing an important role in this park’s future.

The magnitude of the challenge ahead also suddenly dawned on me.

Not only was I about to climb an active volcano that last erupted in 2002, but I would need to ascend 1,500m to the crater’s rim to reach its peak at 3,470m. Luckily, my nerves were quickly soothed by a concise and very enthusiastic prep talk by the Virunga National Park head ranger.

It takes four to six hours to reach the Nyiragongo summit – depending on the group’s fitness level, and this is broken up into five main parts with well-located resting spots at the end of each section. On some occasions, members of our group moved at their own speed and then regrouped, but overall, our progress was determined by the pace of our slowest members. This gave everyone an ample chance to rest and catch their breath.

The first section is mostly flat and wet, but incredibly stunning. The thick rainforest engulfs you in a world that rivals JRR Tolkien’s imagination. This is the longest section and a good opportunity to loosen the cobwebs from your knee joints. It was also here that I was most grateful for my choice to accept the help of a porter, who took my main bag and enabled me to enjoy this rainforest and acclimatise to the humidity and heat.

Eventually, the forest thinned, and we slowly moved onto a trail naturally formed from the lava that flowed in 2002. At first, I found it quite tough to maintain my footing on the loose rocks, but the ground soon became solid and a little easier to negotiate, even though it also became steeper. The rangers slowed down their pace in a few areas and announced that a family of chimpanzees could be found in the area. The mere idea that I could glimpse unhabituated chimps made my heart swell. “They are here,” I thought. Sadly, we never saw them, but a few sightings of blue monkeys were most welcome.

As the trail got steeper and reached higher altitudes, people started to feel the challenge, and some struggled with the third and fourth sections of the hike. However, the rangers had developed a feel for the group’s fitness and stopped frequently enough for people to catch their breath. They also cunningly helped to distract our minds by pointing out the view and forcing us to absorb the amazing beauty of the valleys, lakes, mountains and forests below.

As we began to climb into the clouds, the temperature dropped dramatically. But the open terrain of dark charcoal solidified volcanic rock, and the view of the mist below our feet took our breath away. I could see our accommodation ahead and knew I was close to viewing a lava lake for the first time. I began to feel the satisfaction of what I was about to achieve boil up inside of me and was far too excited to rest. I was on a volcano and couldn’t wait to get to the top and see lava for the first time.

Nearing the summit, it became evident that the next 12 hours would be pretty cold. I would strongly suggest that anyone heading up this way be well prepared and bring a warm set of clothes to make your overnight stay on Nyiragongo more comfortable. The guides were very good, and they quickly had a fire going and soon served us all a very welcoming hot beverage.

A collection of small A-frame huts are perched on the slopes of the Nyiragongo crater, only a two-minute walk away from its rim. The sound of churning lava and exploding gases kept our excitement levels and expectations high. The huts are basic, and there’s only enough space for two people to lie down. Still, when you consider the challenges that the Virunga National Park rangers and staff have had to overcome to build them and protect them from the ravaging onslaught of climatic conditions, they’re more than adequate. Especially when a chilly swirl of wind whistles outside.

My first view of the lava lake will forever be infused into my memory. It did not disappoint. There I stood at 3,470m, on the edge of the volcanic crater, looking down at the largest lava lake in the world. But the sound of the churning lava and exploding gases first impressed me, as the noises echoed so loudly up the crater that they seemed to explode in my ears. Although it was a 250m descent to the lava lake, the sounds were loud enough to make me feel as if I were standing right next to the churning lava.

However, it wasn’t long before the clouds drifted over and concealed the view of the lava lake. My guide, Joseph, offered comfort by telling me that the best time to view the lake would be later at night. So I took the opportunity to put on some dry, warm clothes and shelter from the chilly wind in my small hut.

Being a keen photographer, I was itching to capture photographs of the crater, so after a lovely hot meal of pasta and potatoes, Joseph and I made our way to the crater’s edge to wait for the view to clear. And when it did, the syrupy red and orange lava was a sight to behold.

There are two viewing points that the rangers and guides ask you to use, and both provide fantastic views of the crater. It is a little tricky to capture the full intensity of the glow and light from the lava as it is constantly churning and boiling over. This means there is a harsh contrast between the lava in the centre of the volcano and the glow it provides on the outskirts of the rim.

Unfortunately, I only had about two hours of viewing before the clouds pulled the veil over the spectacle again.

When I woke up the next morning, I was greeted by a hot cup of coffee and a warm omelette. This warm meal solidified an overwhelming aspect of the trail – the amazing efforts that all the rangers, guides and porters made to ensure I was always comfortable. Their sense of hospitality, despite a language barrier, was a memorable component of this hike and a memory I took from the mountain to cherish forever.

The same applies to the Africa Geographic team, who set high standards for planning and managing my safari. Christian and his team checked on us regularly to ensure that things were going smoothly before, during and after the trip. And I couldn’t be happier with how the entire trip to Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo went.

Find your ideal African safari – ready-made, or ask us to build one just for you.

Chimp trekking in Mahale with Africa Geographic

Anna’s emailed request went like this: “After reading all of her books, I long to feel a little bit like Jane Goodall – like a castaway in a remote corner of Africa, chimp trekking in the wild! Can you suggest where I can track down this feeling?”

Mahale Mountains National Park in Tanzania hosts a healthy chimpanzee population that remains protected thanks to the remoteness of the Mahale Mountains. Disturbance to the primates is minimal, there is no infrastructure within the park boundaries, and the only way in and out of the park is by boat across Lake Tanganyika.

As a result, our intrepid traveller became ever more enthused at the prospect of visiting Mahale, which is increasingly recognised as Africa’s ultimate chimp trekking experience.

We asked Ana Zinger to share some of her thoughts about her experience:

“To achieve my dream, Africa Geographic designed an itinerary that involved flying for four hours to the furthest and most remote confines of Tanzania, followed by an epic two-hour lake cruise in a dhow, braving the somewhat angry waters of Lake Tanganyika.

Throughout the trip, I remained hypnotised by the alluring and incomprehensible vastness of Congo’s lowlands that extended to the west – the far bank of the vast lake. When we eventually reached the white beaches of Greystoke-Mahale, I could not unlock my gaze from the verdant and looming peaks that towered behind the lodge. We had finally arrived, and I have to confess that, not only did I feel a bit like Jane Goodall, but I also felt a bit like Tarzan’s Jane!

The staff at Greystoke were wonderful. I felt welcome and comfortable from the moment I walked into the lodge! I shall also always be thankful to them for introducing me to the delicious Ndovu Beer, now my favourite beer in Africa.

Anyone landing at Greystoke is bound to become enamoured with every nook and cranny of this lodge. The lofty main banda, visible from the lake, provides a charming and relaxing ambience to read or just hang out and chat with other guests.

Everywhere in the lodge, you stumble across cleverly considered and skillfully designed nooks to take in the beauty and serenity of Lake Tanganyika.

Each room is a love affair, spiced with exquisite décor and disguised from the next. They are tucked into the surrounding bush and at perfect distances from each other, which gives guests all the privacy that they deserve.

But chimp trekking is what this whole trip was about.

I have trekked for gorillas before – in Uganda – and, as magnificent as that experience was, I have to say that tracking chimpanzees is in a league of its own. When it comes to gorillas, you know the drill – you find them and then stay put wherever they are, watching them and the odd movements that may happen, from playful youngsters darting about to the general allogrooming and social interactions that keep troops cohesive. Chimps, on the other hand, tend to always be on the move. And boy, do they move! Trees and hills are conquered with ease, and they move like black phantoms. They are not the easiest primates to keep up with, but this is where the skills and instincts of Greystoke’s trackers kick in, and they amazingly keep you on track every time you set off after them.

I also noticed another key difference to my gorilla experiences. Chimps are ‘all over the show’ compared to gorillas, which are generally quite merry and calm. Chimp troops are more likely to be divided into sub-units, with several still up in the canopy, while others swing in the mid-storey, and the remainder interact with each other and their babies at ground level. However, on sunny days, when light beams pierce through the forest leaves, it was common to find the entire group down below, stretched out and enjoying the sun’s warm rays, or engaged in some serious grooming sessions. Needless to say, these all make for the most perfect photographic opportunities.

Whilst framing them in my viewfinder, I could not help feeling a bit jealous. I thought to myself that I could definitely use a bit of that grooming as it looked very relaxing. I felt a bit like I was photographing a chimp spa! Comparatively, observing how edgy and grumpy they were on a misty morning after a night of rain was funny.

This was one of the most intense experiences I have ever had in the forests of Africa, and it is in no small measure thanks to Africa Geographic, as well as Mahale’s Mountains, the incredible lodge and the amazing guides at Greystoke. I shall never forget their patience, innate ability to track the chimps, and how we laughed when they discovered my ability to imitate chimp contact calls. When they asked how I did it, I replied: ‘I have learned from the best.’

Back at home, when I close my eyes and think back, I can vividly remember the chimps’ chestnut brown eyes, fascinating gazes, and intense stares.

No one forgets the power of a pant-hoot. Hearing the noises they make carried a very special significance for me, as these were the sounds that Jane Goodall played as an overture to her presentations. The same cries triggered my curiosity and yearning to experience chimp tracking in Africa. Needless to say, my dream came true.

Africa Geographic got everything right. Starting with the suggestion of this wonderful place for my chimp trekking dream safari, all the information they provided, their patience, and the swiftness with which they replied to my queries. Even my rather complicated flight schedule was arranged splendidly, and all flight connections worked like clockwork. Throughout the trip, I had no surprises or changes to my itinerary, and I felt well looked after at all times so that I could relax and enjoy a most magical time.”

Find out about our chimp trekking safaris here – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

Why you should care about thickets

Thickets have perplexed botanists for decades. Also called karoo, savanna, and forest, thickets share many characteristics with these vegetation types, but do not fit snuggly into any of them. As such, thickets have recently been recognised as a distinct South African biome. Written by: Adriaan Grobler and Catherine Browne

In its typical form, a thicket forms a dense, almost impenetrable tangle of trees, shrubs, and vines, many armed with thorns and spines. Historically, thickets have received very little attention compared to their more inviting floral neighbours – the fynbos and succulent karoo.

Thicket forms one of the major vegetation types in all three of South Africa’s Biodiversity Hotspots: the Cape Floristic Region, the Maputaland-Pondoland-Albany, and the Succulent Karoo hotspots. Thicket can be found along the south-eastern coast of South Africa between the Gouritz River in the west and the Kei River in the east, and it is the dominant vegetation in the central and eastern Little Karoo, and in the major river valleys coastward of the Great Escarpment. The largest thicket areas occur in the valleys of the Gamtoos, Sundays and Fish rivers.

Haworthiopsis viscosa © Adriaan Grobler — *Haworthiopsis viscosa* © Adriaan Grobler

Thickets are rich in plant life, and the plants come in a myriad of forms, including trees and tall shrubs, low and dwarf shrubs, succulents, vines, bulbs, and grasses, as well as perennial and annual herbs. This great diversity of plant types is unmatched by any other of South Africa’s biomes. After the succulent karoo, thickets have the second-largest succulent flora in the world, and half of the 344 succulent plants found here are endemic.

Thicket also has the richest mammal fauna of any area with a similar climate. At 106 species, it is home to almost half of South Africa’s mammal fauna, including the Big Five: African elephant, black rhino, Cape buffalo, Cape leopard and lion. Similarly, thickets support close to half of South Africa’s bird fauna. 349 bird species find refuge here, making it one of the richest bird environments among similar-sized regions outside of the tropics. Trumpeter hornbills, narina trogons, orange-breasted sunbirds and Knysna turacos are bird species that one will encounter in a thicket. The rare and threatened Cape parrot can also be found in the thicket of the Amathole Mountains.

Close to 10% of thicket has been obliterated, primarily by crop production, unsustainable livestock farming and urbanisation. A further 55% of thicket is heavily degraded, and only about 10% remains pristine. Most of the unspoiled thicket can be found within the borders of state-owned nature reserves and national parks. Foremost among these is the Addo Elephant National Park, which currently covers 180,000 ha. The area consists predominantly of thicket but also includes subtropical and temperate forests, fynbos, grassland, karoo, and savanna. In addition to hosting elephant, black rhino, buffalo, zebra, leopard, lion, spotted hyena and numerous antelope species, the thicket at Addo is also home to the largest remaining population of the threatened Addo flightless dung beetle.

In light of the unique biodiversity of thicket and the fact that it is not yet adequately protected, the Subtropical Thicket Ecosystem Planning project (STEP) identified a vast network of corridors that, if protected, will ensure the persistence of the irreplaceable natural heritage that we find here. This network covers about 22% of thicket’s core area. It will need to be protected in its entirety to allow the continued functioning of thicket, especially in the face of climate change.

Euphorbia radyeri © Adriaan Grobler — *Euphorbia radyeri* © Adriaan Grobler

The Botanical Society of South Africa is committed to conserving our unique floral heritage. You, too can help make a difference for the conservation of South Africa’s vegetation, to ensure your children and their children get to explore and enjoy the wonders of biodiversity we have today.

Rehabilitating and releasing baby rhinos

Poachers often target female rhinos as they tend to have larger horns than males, as males wear their horns down when fighting. But often, adult females have baby rhinos that will not survive if she is killed.

That is why the Rhino Orphanage in Limpopo, South Africa, is the world’s first centre dedicated solely to baby rhinos. Arrie and Marietjie Van Deventer were the driving force behind this non-profit company. Their love and passion for this cause are at the operation’s heart.

I fell in love with Ntombi, a newly orphaned white rhino calf, in January 2013. She was predicted to be about 12 weeks old and had just arrived at the Rhino Orphanage after suffering 18 hack wounds at the hands of the poachers that killed her mother for her horn.

Her wounds indicated that the assailants had stood side by side, one armed with an axe, the other with a panga. The axe had struck her forehead – the damage was deep and sliced through her skull. She ran around in panic, and blood splashed out every time she moved her head. The panga had cut through where her horn would one day grow and into her nasal cavity, and whenever she put her head down to rest, blood would trickle out of her nostril.

I cried the first time I saw her. How could someone do this to an animal?

The people responsible for the killing of Ntombi’s mother are still out there, and that is a thought that sickens me.

True animal rehabilitation is extremely difficult. Your job is to gain the trust of a traumatised, wild animal, nurse it to health and maturity and later break that bond so the animal can one day continue its life in the wild. Baby rhinos are no exception. This was to be my role in Ntombi’s life alongside another carer called Vicky.

Being a rhino mum is no small feat, especially when your baby weighs more than you do! Rhino calves spend 24 hours a day with their mothers, so even a quick bathroom break can cause distress!

It didn’t take long to earn Ntombi’s trust as she took milk readily from the beginning. This trust was important as her wounds needed tending and cleaning regularly to prevent infection.

Ntombi adored our company and would regularly seek physical contact. During the day, she would sleep for long periods. In the morning and afternoon, we walked her in the bush so she could explore and wallow in the mud. At first, she needed coaxing into the mud, but this later became one of her favourite pastimes. At night she curled up with a blanket under a heat lamp and woke us up every three hours for milk.

As Ntombi grew physically, so did her personality. She was a bouncy ball of joy who loved to play and was good at getting her own way. I would spend hours reading aloud to her in the shade while she slept peacefully. It is a privilege to play a major role in one of these special animals’ lives. The days were long and the nights short, but I loved every second I spent with my adopted baby.

However, I had some fears – did she understand that she was a rhino? Would she be able to integrate with other rhinos in the wild one day? And most of all, would she be safe when she left me?

Before too long, another orphaned white rhino calf, Nkwe, joined our family. Nkwe was difficult to settle in as she refused milk and didn’t take kindly to humans.

Once she had calmed down and started taking meals, we slowly introduced Ntombi to Nkwe. They were unsure what to make of each other and ran around with their tails curled up. Each expected the other to be a surrogate mother, leading to confusion, but they soon became the best of friends.

During this time, we could take a step back, and although we still spent a lot of time with the calves, it was important for them to remember that they were rhinos. They were happy with each other’s company and would snuggle up together at night under the red light. Every time we entered their enclosure, we were greeted with rhino pushes and kisses, and they would often roll over for a belly rub.

Nkwe and Ntombi are now independent and released together into the wild. Not a day passes that I don’t think about these two special rhinos. I pray they will be safe and have their own young one day – helping build on the dwindling rhino population.

Thanks to the Rhino Orphanage, these two rhinos are alive, well and free today.

I Love Namibia

At the start of September, we left our home in Cape Town to embark on a six-week road trip to celebrate our recent nuptials. Exploring the wild places of Namibia made for a different kind of honeymoon, and our road trip turned out to be a journey of a lifetime.

Sam and James' journey across Namibia — Sam and James’ route across Namibia

Criss-crossing borders

It made sense to break up the seven-hour drive to the Namibian border by first stopping at Namaqualand National Park in South Africa, where the flowers were in spectacular bloom. After a night of camping amidst a tapestry of brilliant colours, we continued on our way until we reached Sendelingsdrif on the Orange River in |Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier National Park. This meant crossing into Namibia only to cross back into South Africa for the night, but it was all relatively easy. This border park is the only real mountain desert in southern Africa, and the Richtersveld’s Martian landscape left a lasting impression on us. In this arid area, only the hardiest of life forms survive. However, despite this, the Richtersveld is regarded as the only Arid Biodiversity Hotspot on Earth, with a surprising variety of plant, bird and animal life; much of which is endemic.

We travelled back into Namibia the following day and drove to Fish River Canyon. This is the second-largest canyon in the world after the Grand Canyon, and it was well worth the visit. We hadn’t planned it, but we even managed to make it to the quiver tree forest just outside Keetmanshoop by sunset and spent our evening with dassies, meerkats, a warthog and a border collie. Quiver tree forests are rare, and all three subspecies of the strange but beautiful trees that appear in the forest also, unfortunately, appear on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species.

Exploring Namibia’s vast landscapes is a treat as the country is one of the ten least densely populated places in the world, and it often felt like we had it all to ourselves. The next day, we returned to South Africa to enter the Kgalagadi. The Kgalagadi has an abundance of varied wildlife, and it is home to large predators such as the iconic black-maned Kalahari lions, cheetahs, leopards and hyenas. Although the park was full, it didn’t feel overcrowded and once we drove some distance from the rest camp each morning, we were often on our own.

Exploring the Namib and its surrounds

Continuing our journey after we’d had our fill of predators, we thoroughly enjoyed the drive to Sossusvlei from the Kgalagadi via Mariental. The ambience created by goats, cattle and windmills along the dusty, open roads made it particularly magical.

We stayed at Desert Quiver Camp just outside the Sesriem Gate, the entrance to the Sossusvlei area of the Namib-Naukluft National Park. Sossusvlei is one of the most photographed places in Sub-Saharan Africa, and it is easy to see why. The enormous red dunes, so perfectly sculpted against the backdrop of the dazzling Namibian sky, are something to behold. Even experiencing a full-blown dust storm turned out to be quite spectacular.

These pristine mountains of sand have been shaped over millions of years by the colliding easterly winds from the Atlantic Ocean and the westerly winds from the Naukluft Mountains. We also spent a couple of hours alone exploring Deadvlei, and it was during this time that we encountered a solitary oryx. This iconic antelope was more relaxed than we would have expected, and we walked with him for some time while accompanied by the distinct sound of the Namibian sunset – the soft, rhythmic knocking of the toktokkie beetle.

Heading north-west the next day, with the toktokkie’s morse code still ringing in our ears, the relatively short drive from Sossusvlei to Swakopmund was beautiful, and the terrain became increasingly more mountainous with spectacular strata. We were excited to arrive in Swakopmund, a beach town with German colonial architecture situated in the Namib Desert on the country’s wild coastline. We had our first meal at The Tug restaurant, which is stylishly built around the original Danie Hugo tugboat next to the jetty on the beachfront, and we checked in at the quaint Secret Garden Guesthouse, which is an excellent home-away-from-home that has the bonus of being within walking distance of the town. There is so much to do and see in Swakopmund, from sunset walks and dinners on the beachfront to spotting jackass penguins, sea lions and Cape fur seals on a boat cruise with Ocean Adventures in Walvis Bay.

Quadbiking near Namibia's adventure capital, Swakopmund — Quad biking near Namibia’s adventure capital, Swakopmund ©James Suter

Ancient rock art and desert-adapted wildlife

Once our bellies were full of German food, we left Swakopmund and drove up the Skeleton Coast, which is inundated with fog for most of the year as a result of the cold Benguela upwelling – a process in which deep, cold water rises to the surface and cools the overlying air. We spent time at Cape Cross and relished this fisherman’s paradise and the temperature change – this was the only time we wore beanies in Namibia. Then, we journeyed out of the fog to defrost in Twyfelfontein, passing through the small town of Uis on the way.

Twyfelfontein in the Kunene Region of north-western Namibia is famous for its ancient rock art, and this UNESCO World Heritage site is one of the many great reasons to visit the country. Ancient rock engravings and paintings can be found around a site inhabited 6,000 years ago – first by hunter-gatherers and later by Khoikhoi herders. At least 2,500 rock carvings and a few rock paintings can be admired. These engravings were the social media of yesteryear, and it was amazing to see the magic and mystery of these artworks.

North-western Namibia has been called an arid Eden, and people share their land and resources with desert-adapted elephant, black rhino, lion, giraffe, springbok, gemsbok, zebra and other wildlife. For this reason, it was hard not to prioritise on our trip, and we even had the chance to track rhino in a restricted area with Save the Rhino Trust Namibia. With poaching on the increase, we witnessed firsthand this small team’s challenge of patrolling an unfenced area larger than South Africa’s Kruger National Park.

Tracking desert-adapted rhino with Save the Rhino Trust ©James Suter

Reaching our oasis

After this rare opportunity, we ventured to Epupa Falls and northern Kunene. Epupa Falls is one of Namibia’s most picturesque destinations and a place we battled to leave. The falls lie within easy reach of the town of Opuwo, a bustling stop that boasts an eclectic mix of people, from tourists and business people to Himba men and women adorned in red ochre and hand-crafted jewellery. Axel Hartman, the chief operating officer at Save the Rhino Trust, had put us in touch with his friend, Koos Verwey, an ex-military man with a heart for the local people. We will never forget driving over the hill after kilometres of harsh, arid landscapes to see palm trees, baobab trees and other lush vegetation surrounding the falls and the beautiful Kunene River.

Meeting Ndjinaa, who was chained for 20 years because her community was unable to diagnose her dementia and believed that she was bewitched. Koos worked alongside the Michelle Group Trust to teach locals about this illness and they have built a dementia clinic in the area. — Meeting Ndjinaa (left), who was chained for 20 years because her community could not diagnose her dementia and believed that she was bewitched. Koos worked alongside the Michelle Group Trust to teach locals about this illness, and they have since built a dementia clinic in the area ©James Suter

A young Himba woman in northern Namibia ©James Suter

Sam soaking up the beauty of the falls ©James Suter

Waiting games at waterholes in Etosha

After three short days visiting local communities, making friends and learning about Koos’ work with the Himba tribe, we left Epupa Falls. We were soon immersed in Etosha National Park – a place we have always wanted to visit. We entered the formerly restricted western and wilder section of the park, which was only opened to the public in 2014, and we camped at the new Olifantsrus Camp right next to a waterhole teeming with wildlife. We then made our way across the park and spent two nights at Etosha Safari Lodge, which lies just 10km from the Anderson Gate near Okaukuejo. This was our first experience of the Gondwana Collection, and we can truly testify that there is something special about these lodges. After a fantastic two nights there, we indulged in another two at Mokuti Etosha Lodge, located just a four-minute drive from Etosha’s eastern Von Lindequist Gate near the historical Namutoni Fort.

Our muscles were soothed during a massage at Mokuti’s stunning spa that lies deep in the bush, away from the accommodation and other guests, and once rejuvenated, we spent the rest of our days waiting patiently at the waterholes. With it being so dry and so hot, the waterholes were alive with many different species that would visit them for a drink. In the short time that we stayed in the park, we sighted lion, hyena, black rhino, elephant, springbok, gemsbok, hartebeest, jackal, zebra, ostrich, honey badger, giraffe and wildebeest, as well as a variety of birds and smaller mammals like African wildcat and mongoose.

To avoid predators, lots of animals choose to drink at the hotter times of day when they are less likely to encounter danger ©James Suter

Hyenas take a dip to cool down. — Hyenas take a dip to cool down ©James Suter

A regal lion surveys his kingdom — A majestic lion surveys his kingdom ©James Suter

The Caprivi Strip – where four rivers meet

In contrast to the rest of the country, the Caprivi Strip, bordered by the Okavango, Kwando, Chobe and Zambezi rivers, is an area of fertile floodplains surrounded by perennial rivers.

The lush countryside appears out of nowhere after the desert landscapes of the south. Suddenly, we passed villages with goats, cattle and people by the roadside. We stayed at Hakusembe and Namushasha lodges, both part of the Gondwana Collection, and we enjoyed stunning boat cruises surrounded by lush vegetation and incredible birdlife.

Return to Cape Town

As soon as we left Namibia to enter Botswana and start our long journey home, we were welcomed by a herd of elephant crossing the tarred road just after the border post. We stayed at Chobe Marina Lodge and enjoyed cruises on the Chobe River before heading to Africa Albida’s Victoria Falls Safari Club, where we loved the vibe and energy of the lodge and the area. We had impeccable service while at the Safari Club, and we highly recommend their restaurant, The Boma.

Relaxing on a boat cruise along the Chobe River ©James Suter

A hippo has a good splash in the Chobe River ©James Suter

Elephants from a boat cruise on the Chobe River ©James Suter

The most memorable part of our stay at Victoria Falls was white water rafting down the mighty Zambezi River. This was a little more extreme than we had anticipated – we got some serious exercise from paddling 27km down the river through rapids and climbing the steep winding path afterwards to catch our ride home.

We had now reached the most northern point of our travels, and it was time to turn back and head home. On the way back down, we stopped for a night at Planet Baobab near the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans in the middle of the dry savanna of north-eastern Botswana. It is one of the largest salt flats in the world, and the pan is all that remains of the enormous Lake Makgadikgadi, which once covered an area larger than Switzerland but which dried up several thousand years ago.

We also stopped at the Kalahari Farmhouse in central Namibia en route home – where we loved our stone cottage and reading on the lawn. We hopped on a game drive into the Central Kalahari from their neighbouring lodge before having our last sundowner with our feet in the red dunes overlooking the desert.

Where to stay

For accommodation options at the best prices, visit our collection of camps and lodges.

From campsites to luxury lodges, there’s something for everyone in Namibia. If you’re thinking of planning a trip, here’s a shortlist of some of the places where Sam and James stayed on their travels that they highly recommend:

Twee Rivieren Rest Camp is run by SANParks and is the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park’s largest camp. It is the only camp in the park with round-the-clock electricity and cell phone reception, so if you’re tired after a long day’s travelling, this is the best place to re-charge your batteries.

The Secret Garden Guesthouse is in the heart of ‘Old Swakopmund’ and offers a home for pizza-loving families and pets. Reasonably priced, it is an excellent base from which to explore all the adventure that the town has to offer.

Situated 120km north of Swakopmund, Cape Cross Lodge lies just metres from the Atlantic Ocean, providing a perfect place to explore the untamed wilderness of the Skeleton Coast.

Are you looking for the best seat in the house to view the falls? Then head to Epupa Falls Lodge, owned by ex-military man Koos Verwey and found in the heart of Kaokoland – home to the ancient Himba people who are indigenous to Namibia.

Epupa Falls Lodge in northern Kunene ©Sam Suter

Twyfelfontein Country Lodge is a luxurious lodge located in the Kunene region of Namibia, which prides itself on various rock engravings and paintings that date back to the first hunter-gatherers in the area.

Mokuti Etosha Lodge is the perfect place for travellers who wish to explore the diverse wildlife in the famous eastern side of Etosha National Park. Mokuti prides itself on modern accommodation in a landscaped setting, with views of beautiful gardens and the indigenous bush beyond.

Hakusembe River Lodge and Namushasha River Lodge on the Caprivi strip both provide incredible idylls for the most seasoned of travellers, and you can unwind away from the world once you’ve stepped into the magical enclave of the Kalahari Farmhouse.

Search our ready-made safaris or ask us to build one just for you.

Where to eat

Stop off for an apple crumble at Solitaire Moose Macgregor Bakery at Solitaire Country Lodge en route to Swakopmund from Sossusvlei. Life’s short; eat dessert first.

Tuck into a richly diverse menu at The Tug in Swakopmund and pair your meal with one of 140 of the finest South African wines on offer. Or if you have more of a craving for bratwurst and sauerkraut, don’t miss the Swakopmund Brauhaus for the chance to dine in a typically Bavarian setting in Africa.

With three restaurants, as well as a microbrewery, beer garden, deli and a beach kiosk with its private pavilion, the Strand Hotel Swakopmund has it all. Its sea-facing terraces make it the perfect place to enjoy Namibian oysters and a great view.

Don’t drive past The Fish Deli in Swakopmund without stopping for a delicious smoked salmon and egg roll.

Tips and tricks

1. When going on a game drive in the Kgalagadi, get out as early as possible so you don’t have to endure the dust from other vehicles.
2. Book well in advance for a trip, especially if you wish to travel in September.
3. Spend quality time at waterholes in Etosha, and your patience will pay off.
4. Many people find Deadvlei more impressive and less busy than Sossusvlei.
5. Beat the crowds and enjoy the sunrise by climbing the dunes in the morning.
6. Drink lots of water to avoid heatstroke, but first, ensure it is drinkable.
7. Don’t swim in the Kunene River at Epupa Falls, as there are crocodiles. Rather cool off in the pools at the top of the waterfall – after checking which ones are safe.
8. Support a community campsite. You are almost camping in the community’s backyard, contributing to conservation by supporting these sites.
9. Know your vehicle. Although help can be found along some routes, be prepared to change a tyre (or three).

About the authors

James and Sam Suter were exposed to the wonders of Africa and its wilderness areas from a young age. After graduating with a diploma in Environmental Studies, James went on to guide where he honed his skills, picked up his camera and started documenting the scenes from his day-to-day life. James now offers private photographic safaris and operates throughout Southern and East Africa. As well as his private guiding, James is co-owner of Black Bean Productions – a small, independent production company in Cape Town. Sam is the producer at Black Bean Productions. With a passion for conservation, travel and Africa, she creates short films and assists teams in raising much-needed funds and awareness to continue the good work that they are doing on the ground.

Herero

Photographer Jim Naughten first came across the Herero tribe when he visited Namibia fifteen years ago. He fell in love with the country and its extraordinary inhabitants. He was particularly spellbound the first time he saw a Herero lady sashaying across the desert outside Swakopmund in her beautiful dress.
What interested him, particularly, was the history behind the dresses and how things can get frozen in time. Their antiquated clothing was introduced by the German settlers and has since become a vital part of Herero identity, despite a dreadful war waged by the colonisers that resulted in the death of 80% of the Herero tribe.
Jim sees the dresses and Herero costume as symbols of defiance, survival and cultural identity. In this photoshoot, he was lucky enough to work with a Herero tour guide company, which backed the financing for the project. All the people photographed also received fees, and the crew brought supplies, such as maize, coffee, and sugar, to the villages where they stayed.
Jim had the chance to get to know the people and their culture very well during his three-and-a-half-month stay in their villages, and the response to his work from the Herero community has been very positive.
In the above photo, two women from the Otjigrine section of the Otruppe march alongside women from a different group in military dresses worn at ceremonies such as Herero Day to commemorate Herero chiefs of the past.

Two Herero women display their traditional patchwork dresses. Their hats are designed to resemble cow horns, and the ‘horns’ of their headdresses get smaller as they age. Some say that this is a symbol of their decreasing fertility.

The tradition of wearing floor-length formal attire started in the late 19th century when Christian missionary women sought to convert the tribe and clothe them in the European fashion of the times. The Herero women tend to wear these traditional dresses from their wedding day onwards

Herero women assume the cow dance pose; a celebration dance during which participants stamp their feet and kick up dust to imitate the upraised horns and swaying movements of the cattle they rear.

The men of the Herero tribe, in contrast to the women, do not dress up as Victorian gentlemen but as soldiers. Their attire is a permanent reminder of when the tribe came close to being exterminated by German colonisers. By mimicking the style conventions of their oppressors, they diminish the enemy’s power.

These uniforms demonstrate a form of social structure more than a present-day military movement, and male members of the tribe tend to wear these outfits at ceremonies and festivals mainly.

During the war that ended in 1908, Herero men would take pride in wearing the uniforms of German soldiers they had killed. To this day, the Herero people continue to wear the uniforms of their European oppressors to honour their warrior ancestors.

The cavalry struts by

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ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHER

Jim Naughten is a photographic artist currently exploring themes with historical subject matter. He was awarded a painting scholarship to Lancing College and later studied photography at the Arts Institute of Bournemouth in the UK.
Naughten’s work has been widely featured in European and US exhibitions. It includes a solo show at the Imperial War Museum, and group shows at the Royal Academy of Art and National Portrait Galleries in London.
His first series, Re-enactors, was published as a monograph in 2009 by Hotshoe Books. His second, Hereros, was published by Merrell in March 2013, and his new book, Animal Kingdom, will be published by Prestel in April 2016.
Collections of his work are held at The Imperial War Museum, The Museum of Fine Arts in Houston, Honolulu Museum of Art, and many private collections in the US, UK and Europe.

A very special pangolin rescue

This is not just another story about a pangolin rescue. This is a story of compassion and hope, a story of transboundary teamwork of two nations coming together to help two endangered mammals. A story that hopefully reminds us that we all have a role to play no matter how big or small. Written by: Ellen Connelly

When an email arrived alerting me of two rescued pangolins in Mozambique. My heart sank, and I had to take a deep breath before I could even read the words on the page. Two pangolins were being sold on the side of the road in Nampula in northern Mozambique. The rescuers, Nuno and Vicky, had seen this type of poaching occur while working in Mozambique. Knowing that buying the pangolins from the poacher could perpetuate the continual trade, Nuno and Vicky were at a loss as to what they should do. Honestly, though, there was only one thing to do, and that was to save these animals from starvation, dehydration and ultimately death. So they bought the pangolins from the poacher and took them to a safe ‘temporary’ environment.

It was at this point that the Tikki Hywood Foundation in Zimbabwe got involved. Through the IUCN-SSC Pangolin Specialist Group based in London, we were contacted to assist with supportive care and a solution to the problem. I was so relieved that we live in a world of emails and Skype, as it was not long before we were communicating with Nuno on a way forward. We quickly established the weights of the pangolins and offered advice on how best to proceed.

True to any epic tale – the plot could only thicken from this point. It was obvious that the two pangolins, which we now had established were mother and son, could not stay where they currently were. Within a few phone calls, we were put in touch with people on the ground in Mozambique who could take the pangolins.

Niassa Carnivore Project, run by Keith Begg, was the solution, and Keith jumped full force behind this project. Without worrying for a second about any cost implications, he was only concerned about the safety of the pangolins. But some issues to be considered – moving wildlife in Mozambique requires a permit, and up until this particular pangolin rescue, we had not had any involvement with the Mozambican authorities so we were rather concerned as to how we were going to achieve this without knowing the ‘right’ people.

We contacted Damien Mander of IAPF, who is currently involved with a rhino project in Mozambique and asked if he could direct us. Moments later, Damien emailed Dr Carlos Pereira and introduced the Tikki Hywood Trust and our work in Zimbabwe concerning pangolins. I was incredibly relieved when a new email arrived in my inbox from Dr Pereira. Not only was he aware of the increased pangolin poaching in Mozambique, but he was also completely on board in supporting the move of these rescued pangolins.

Together with Cornelio Miguel, warden of the Niassa National Reserve, Luis Tomas Sande, the chief of services who issued the permit that was required over a weekend, and Mr Aly, the head of the wildlife sector in Nampula, the necessary documentation and approval was given. The plan was put in action to get the pangolins to Niassa.

With just a cardboard box and a couple of towels, the pangolins were taken to the airport, where Keith would collect his precious cargo and give them their second chance. Both pangolins remained calm and never tried to leave the box, and the mother nurtured her young when the opportunity allowed. We had become concerned about both pangolins because they had dropped weight, likely from lack of food, but this was to be expected, and the time could not come sooner for them to move back to the wild.

The morning of 18th October arrived, and there was great excitement from Zimbabwe to Mozambique. The pangolins were to be transported to Nampula Airport by Nuno and Vicky, who would be met by the necessary authorities and ushered through the airport checks, where Keith would be waiting with the pilot, Alan Evans Hanes. Thanks to the organisation and support of everyone involved, the process was quick, and it was not long before the pangolins were loaded into the plane and their journey to freedom began.

The persecution of the pangolin continues unabated. An increasing number of these shy creatures are being tortured and killed for an unsustainable belief system in Asia facilitated by the illegal wildlife trade in Africa. We are losing our wildlife at a dramatic rate, which is why this rescue was all the more crucial. On behalf of the Tikki Hywood Trust and myself, we would like to thank the pangolin team who bravely and compassionately gave these two pangolins a second chance. This rescue could not have been achieved without dedicated people.

Like any true epic tale, however, there will be a part to the story that pulls heavily on the heartstrings. Unfortunately, the mother pangolin died shortly after arrival at the intended release site. We believe she had succumbed to starvation whilst still trying to nurture a growing baby. The silver lining is that the little boy is doing well, and his prospects for a successful release are positive.

Read more about Africa’s arboreal artichokes: Fascinating Pangolin Facts

5 things I wish I knew before climbing Kilimanjaro

If you make it to the crater of Mount Kilimanjaro, being able to see for miles and miles above the clouds makes the whole experience worthwhile. Written by: Matt Phillips

One final push and you arrive at Uhuru Peak – something I thought impossible. People are exhausted and very emotional, and you take it all in before you realise that you have to walk all the way back down. But here are five things that I wished I knew before I left:

1. Porters are the hardest-working people on the mountain

These guys will pretty much pick you up when you are down; they will leave camp after you and arrive before you; they will carry your bags, tents and other bits of equipment. Porters will completely go out of their way to make sure you are happy and safe; they will sing and dance all the way to the top of Kilimanjaro and stay with you when you most need support.

2. Altitude sickness

Not everyone will suffer from this, but many people do, especially after climbing to a high altitude too quickly. Most people get headaches, feel sick and dizzy – and the higher you go the worse the symptoms. On summit night, I suffered headaches, exhaustion and confusion while others suffered from sickness.

3. Bring plenty of water neutralising tablets

If you have treated your water with chlorine tablets, you will have a horrible taste of swimming pool water because of the chlorine. I found it very hard to want to drink water tasting like that, but neutralising tablets will take the swimming pool taste away completely. Not packing these is one of my biggest regrets!

4. Learn basic Swahili

English is not the first language for many porters and guides, so communication can sometimes be difficult. But do not worry; learning and speaking Swahili with your porters and guides can be fun.

5 . Nothing can prepare you for summit night

This was potentially the hardest night of my life. The more people I tell this to, the more people think it’s a complete exaggeration.

Leaving base camp at around midnight, after trying to sleep for a maximum of three hours, you start your summit climb. Two hours go by, and you are still walking. Five hours go by, and you are still walking. Everything will start to freeze – including your water. You stop for 10 seconds and struggle to get your breath back. I felt so exhausted and confused that I wanted to throw down my trekking poles and go home. That night, I kept asking myself why I was putting myself through so much physical and psychological pain on earth.

Then you reach Stella Point. The Kilimanjaro summit is only 45 minutes away, and the remaining walk is mostly flat and offers the most amazing view of the sun rising through the clouds, lifting everyone’s spirits. You then make it to the crater of Kilimanjaro. Looking around at all the glaciers and being able to see for miles and miles above the clouds, makes the whole experience totally worthwhile.

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A photo safari to South Luangwa

A group of six intrepid guests recently participated in an Africa Geographic safari to the remote and wild Nsefu Sector of the South Luangwa National Park. By: Ed Selfe

This area is only accessible during the sector’s peak game viewing months (August-October). It offers some of the most genuine and rewarding game-viewing in Southern Africa, with the increasingly rare benefit of being extremely remote and secluded with few other visitors. The Luangwa River’s meanderings create a diverse matrix of beautiful habitats that form a stunning natural backdrop.

The very first evening in Luangwa was blessed by a beautiful sunset with a couple of elephants sedately drinking at the river. We couldn’t have set it up more perfectly! And it did set the tone for the week as we enjoyed wonderful sightings in the Luangwa Valley.

The benefits of this remote area were evident on the very first morning when a herd of bull elephants of mixed ages were spotted heading towards the river. We followed the river and stopped in the perfect spot to view them cross – with no one else around.

Holding a Grade 1 guide’s licence allows me to lead walking safaris in the national park, so when the bulls moved out of the river and across the sand, we got down from the vehicle and flat on the ground. Whilst safely protected by the vehicle, we took some wonderful low-angle photos.

One of the mornings, we locked onto the alarm calls of a puku (an antelope species found almost exclusively in Zambia’s riverine regions) and after some searching, we came across the source of the commotion – a chunky male leopard climbing from tree to tree.

We used Zikomo Safari Camp as our base – a simple, rustic and remote camp on the banks of the Luangwa. They have an enviable location bordering the main South Luangwa National Park and the Nsefu Sector. This meant that we had permission to cross the rivers that form the park’s boundaries, which allowed us to follow up on any sightings or sounds happening on either bank of the river. There is nothing more frustrating than spotting lions on the far bank and being powerless to approach them!

So it was one morning that we found the local Luwi pride resting in the shade of a sausage tree on the opposite bank. That afternoon, we left camp, crossed the river and approached the pride as they were rousing. The light was perfect, and the interaction between the males and their cubs was one of the highlights of the trip.

The females soon set off hunting, so we gave them some space to manoeuvre, but the light was still too bright, and their attempts failed. We settled down in a sandy riverbed and shared the last of the evening light with them. Once again, we were entirely alone at this wonderful sighting in one of Africa’s most remarkable locations – a truly amazing feeling. There was ample time to discuss compositions, the best angles for lighting, and for every guest to ask questions about how to get the photos they wanted.

One night, we carefully approached a hyena den, knowing that they had small cubs. We kept very quiet and waited for them to come out. It didn’t take long, and the following 30 minutes became an incredible highlight of this trip as two cubs were seen being groomed and cared for by a large female. We were able to sit and watch this behaviour without disturbing them and enjoyed a great chance to discuss what were the best settings to make the most of spotlight photography.

Later that night, we met another vehicle on a lion sighting. We took the chance to photograph the lion using their light – a textbook opportunity to photograph with a spotlight and another chance to teach and learn.

Our last morning turned out to be the best. Just when I wondered what else I would try to show the group, a large herd of buffaloes approached the river. While the buffaloes sniffed the air and decided whether to come down, we played with fast-shutter speed shots of impalas running across the sand – producing a very respectable and fun collection of panning shots.

Finally, the large buffalo herd came down the bank, and we all managed to take some great photos that captured the moment – the haze, dust and slightly harsh light worked beautifully to accentuate the drama of this encounter.

Moving on from this, we were very happy to find a small lion pride we had followed earlier in the week. They had recently killed a warthog and were contentedly feeding on the carcass.

Returning to camp as the light became too bright, we found giraffes coming to drink at the river and enjoyed their reflections appearing and disappearing as the wind blew ripples across the water.

Next year, we will continue to use the rustic and simple offerings of Zikomo Bush Camp, and we plan to visit the valley a little earlier to avoid the heat while still reaping the endemic benefits offered by the Nsefu Sector.

As it often happens when I leave this area, I am already yearning to be back. I cannot wait to show this awesome corner of Zambia to anyone who chooses to join us on an Africa Geographic safari.

Comments from our guests:

“The lodge staff are very friendly, accommodating and helpful and went out of their way to make our stay comfortable. Food was good and one could not expect any better, considering the remoteness and heat that they have to contend with on a daily basis. Ed is a highly likeable person and conducted the safari in a very professional manner. He is very knowledgeable and explained things about nature in good detail. He understands photography and manoeuvred the vehicle into great positions for making the most out of photographic opportunities.” – A.Ellmer, South Africa

“Ed Selfe, the guide on this photographic safari, was brilliant at accommodating the wide variety of levels of photographic experience on the trip. His photographic knowledge and ranger experience were invaluable to improving my photographic skills.” – B. Hobday, Australia

How about South Luangwa for your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

8 unexpected uses for elephant dung

Elephants spend a good portion of each day eating. These gentle giants consume 150-200kg of food daily – and produce up to 100kg of elephant dung daily. Written by: Willow Alexandria Brough

An estimated 130,000 elephants occur seasonally in Botswana, meaning they produce about 13,000 metric tons of manure daily in that country! It is unsurprising that people have thought up some pretty creative uses for elephant dung over the years.

As the old adage goes: “waste not, want not!”; here are eight useful ways to make the most of all that poop:

1. Mosquito repellent

Lighting up a piece of elephant dung to keep the mozzies away might not sound incredibly appealing to some, but I can promise that if you ever find yourself out in the bush with no alternative, the bites on your ankles will quickly change your mind. Luckily, just the smoke from burning a dried-up chunk of dung is enough to repel mosquitos, which saves you from having to rub it on your skin. Surprisingly, it also doesn’t have a particularly pungent smell and is less offensive to your nostrils than the average spray-on repellent.

2. Lifesaving water

I genuinely hope you’ll never be in a situation where squeezing the last remaining liquid out of fresh elephant dung is your only option. However, for the sake of survival, if you are ever lost with no water in an area where elephants roam, this is a solution; albeit a rather undignified one. Take a handful of fresh elephant dung and squeeze …

3. Mild pain killer and a remedy for a bleeding nose

Because of the large variety of plants an elephant consumes daily, their dung is a one-stop-shop for traditional healing. In their faeces, you can find traces of most of the foliage that a medicine man would use in his treatments. Once it has been lit and the flames have been blown out, allowing it to smoulder, all it takes is one deep breath of smoke and that headache should be gone. As well as curing headaches, dulling toothaches and limiting other pains, elephant dung is known to clear the sinuses and cure bleeding noses. So rather than searching the savannah for the herb or bark used to cure a specific ailment, just consider inhaling some elephant dung instead!

4. Eco-friendly paper

Despite the vast quantities of food they shove in their mouths, an elephant digests only about 45% of what it consumes. Elephants are herbivores with highly fibrous diets, so much of the undigested material passes through them as intact fibres. And this is why their excrement can easily be made into paper products. Today, our paper is most commonly made with wood fibre pulp, but a similar pulp can be derived from the fibres in elephant dung. This ‘poo paper’ does have a slightly different texture than what we’re used to, but I would rather write on slightly rougher paper than watch our forests be chopped down.

5. A coffee brew

You’ve probably already heard of those ‘trendy’ (but ethically highly compromised) coffee beans passed through farmed civets’ digestive systems. The beans are collected from their stool, then washed, dried and roasted by brewers before being sold for ridiculous sums of money. Well, now it seems that someone in Thailand’s Golden Triangle has had a similar idea, but on a much larger scale. Instead of civets, a herd of 20 captive elephants are pooping out coffee beans made into coffee. They’re calling it Black Ivory Coffee and are serving it exclusively in five-star resorts across Asia and the Middle East. As elephants are herbivores (unlike civets), the fermentation process they use to break down the cellulose in their food brings out the sweet, fruity flavours in the bean and gives the coffee its chocolatey-cherry taste. All traces of bitterness vanish, and it has even been described as a sort of tea-coffee hybrid due to its softness on the palate.

6. Bizarre beer

The success of Black Ivory Coffee has inspired an even stranger drink – Un Kono Kuro. The name of this strange beverage is a pun on the Japanese word for poo, ‘unko’. Those same beans that elephants excrete are then fermented into beer. Its flavour is similar to that of the coffee – mellow and sweet, with its initial bitterness giving way to a hint of chocolate. One satisfied reviewer went so far as to refer to the aftertaste of the beer as more of an afterglow. With such a demand for this novelty alcohol, Un Kono Kuro was so successful that its online store sold out within minutes of its launch.

7. Biogas

Sources of green energy are becoming more important by the day. With fossil fuel supplies dwindling and global warming taking its toll, the time to find alternatives is now. Luckily, some zoos and sanctuaries are wising up and using the resources right under their feet. With the help of biogas digesters, the waste products of herbivores can be used to generate gas for stoves, heat and even electricity. And as we all now know, elephants are a perfect candidate thanks to the amount that they poop. As the digesters break down the organic waste, methane and carbon dioxide are collected to be used in stoves or gas-powered engines. Nutrient-rich bio-slurry is also created during this process, which can then be used as a fertiliser.

8. A home

This last one isn’t for us humans, but a lump of elephant dung acts as home to many creatures. Scientists know elephants as ‘eco-system’ engineers – meaning they can control the availability of resources for other organisms by modifying the physical environment. Many insects make these piles of poop their home, including beetles, scorpions, crickets, termites and millipedes. And we all know that dung beetles bury balls of elephant dung after laying their eggs in it. As well as creating a highly nutritious home for some of the smaller creatures, it also benefits those who would want to eat those creatures. Honey badgers, mongooses, hornbills and francolins will scratch through them, snacking on the hidden bugs and grubs.

And this concludes our chat about elephant dung. Remember, just because we call something a waste product doesn’t necessarily mean we should waste it.

iSimangaliso: park for the people

The name iSimangaliso means miracle and wonder in isiZulu, and Africa Geographic’s CEO, Simon Espley, can most certainly attest to that after completing iSimangaliso’s mountain bike challenge:

“‘If you encounter an elephant, buffalo or hippo, keep cycling!’ This was the gist of the briefing that we were given before the start of our mountain bike adventure. This was followed by advice on how to behave if any of the animals as mentioned earlier might be stubbornly blocking the bush tracks and game trails that we were following on our 4-day cycle through Maputoland.

And so began an immersion for me into the depths of iSimangaliso Wetland Park – a World Heritage Site, Africa’s oldest protected area, and without a doubt one of South Africa’s most beautiful and diverse national parks.

Perhaps a safari from a saddle is not everybody’s cup of tea, but potentially being ‘on the menu’, as it were, certainly gave me a different perspective than from the comfort of a vehicle. Throughout the event, we had the chance to cycle through eight distinct interlinking ecosystems – each one unique and yet somehow also at one with the others.

The region was experiencing an extended drought during my adventure, with the receding lake shoreline and many of the marshes reduced to rock-hard cracked mud as far as the eye could see. Yet each day was magical as we navigated our way through sand forests, thorn savannah, rolling palm-dotted grasslands, lake shorelines and across rocky Lebombo mountain ridges.

One particularly magical stretch for me was a long track through the sand forests bordering Lake St Lucia’s False Bay. It was early morning, and the forest was alive with birds – crested guineafowl and gorgeous bush-shrikes being personal highlights as I toiled through the thick sand, alone in my thoughts. A red forest duiker scuttling across the path in front of me caught my attention, as did a family of bushpigs that went snorting off into the undergrowth at my approach. As the morning matured and the temperature rose, so the avian chorus changed, with tambourine doves and yellow-rumped tinkerbirds taking over with their melancholy musing.

One afternoon I strolled through the extremely laid back town of St Lucia to catch a ferry cruise up the lake – cold beers and a comfy chair made for a nice change from a day in the saddle. Imagine my excitement when I spotted a reclusive African finfoot in the nearby reeds, and I tried to point it out to my fellow passengers. However, they were captivated by the large pod of hippos grunting, snorting and cavorting right next to the ferry. And for me, that moment sums up iSimangaliso in a nutshell – this incredibly endowed wonderland has something for everybody.

There’s something for everyone to get excited about at iSimangaliso ©Jacques Marais

During our cycle, we also mingled with the local people who depend on this spectacular area for their livelihoods and who play such a vital role in its ongoing survival. A lasting memory of iSimangaliso was the involvement of local people in the management of the park and the surrounding areas – this is an essential element of conservation going forward. It is also good to know that visiting iSimangaliso contributes directly to community welfare as well as to biodiversity conservation.”

The history of iSimangaliso makes it clear why the park places community development at the forefront of their conservation strategies.

A successful conservation model that also offered tangible benefits to poverty-stricken communities

During the late eighties and early nineties, half a million South African citizens signed a petition against a multinational mining company’s plans to mine the iSimangaliso dunes for titanium and other heavy metals. The citizens were also backed by Nelson Mandela, who strongly approved of nature-based tourism as an environmentally friendly approach to income generation. A battle ensued, and the citizens won, with South Africa’s government ruling in favour of protecting the area’s fragile beauty. With five cultural groups that call the park their home, the development of a ‘people’s park’ in the area was suggested as an alternative to mining, and tourism and conservation became important regional economic drivers. It became vital that iSimangaliso create a successful conservation model that also offered tangible benefits to poverty-stricken communities in and around the area.

According to iSimangaliso’s CEO, Andrew Zaloumis: “There are still many challenges facing iSimangaliso. The most important is to ensure that progress continues to be made towards putting an end to the paradox of poverty amidst the plenty of nature.”

Local community members play a large role in the tourism industry ©Scott Ramsay, LoveWildAfrica.com

With this in mind, there is an essential focus on improving soils and providing access to water, fencing and seeds to communities to improve food security in the area, while also protecting the vulnerable coastal peat swamp forest.

Furthermore, the development of infrastructure in the park is creating employment, and land claimants are empowered to co-manage the area. At the same time, the iSimangaliso Authority enables community members to develop skills in hospitality and guiding so that they can prosper in the local tourism industry.

A craft programme also links about 300 women crafters to an urban retail market that includes Mr Price Home.

The communities living in and around iSimangaliso today have a rich relationship with the land and its past, and tribal traditions, as well as indigenous knowledge, continue to shape the current environment in which 526 bird species and 2,505 species of flowering plants flourish. And it is the inherent understanding of the importance of conserving both our cultural and natural landscapes that makes the surrounding majesty of Lake St Lucia so unique.

Cormorants sit on traditional fishing traps ©Scott Ramsay, LoveWildAfrica.com

With its 25,000-year-old coastal dunes and 700-year-old fish traps, the wetland park is of historical significance. It is home to the prehistoric-looking coelacanth, which was once considered extinct, but has been discovered living in the deep submarine canyons off Sodwana Bay. The park is also the largest protected area of recorded Stone Age and Iron Age sites in South Africa.

With the world’s highest density of black rhino, Africa’s largest estuarine system, and the greatest bird diversity on the continent, the biological wealth of this area is testament to what can be achieved in the name of conservation.

There’s so much to see both above and below the water ©Scott Ramsay, LoveWildAfrica.com

This 332,000-hectare park is an outstanding example of the global values that former President Mandela so strongly stood for, and it’s easy to understand why the park became the first place in South Africa to be listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in December 1999.

In a poignant speech that marked the reintroduction of elephants to the Eastern shores of Lake St Lucia in 2002, Mandela pronounced:

“iSimangaliso must be the only place on the globe where the oldest land mammal (the rhinoceros) and the world’s biggest terrestrial mammal (the elephant) share an ecosystem with the world’s oldest fish (the coelacanth) and the world’s biggest marine mammal (the whale).”

These words have forever engrained themselves onto the shores that stretch from Maphelane to Kosi Bay, and no sentence has ever better captured the essence of the area.

Surrender to the beautiful coastline of KwaZulu-Natal ©Paul Changuion, Makakatana Bay Lodge

WHAT TO DO

Thanks to its entry fee pricing strategy, iSimangaliso truly remains a park for the people by maintaining public access to the park and activities at affordable prices.

And to complement the sheer ecological, historical and social diversity of the region, there is a variety of adventure activities to enjoy in the area, including kayaking, deep sea charter fishing and horseback riding.

Get to know your neighbours ©Scott Ramsay, LoveWildAfrica.com

Whether you’re interested in birding or game viewing on trails, making friends with the hippos and crocodiles on an estuary boat cruise on Lake St Lucia, or scuba diving amidst the 1,258 species of fish and colourful coral reefs, there is something for everyone both above and below land.

From spotting the Big Five in the bushes to finding the five different species of turtles on the beaches, it’s hard to run short of things to keep you busy in this stretch of paradise.

Just don’t miss the start of the ancient nesting ritual when the leatherback and loggerhead turtles return each November to lay their eggs on iSimangaliso’s pristine shores. From 1^st November 2015 to 28^th February 2016, iSimangaliso has allowed Thonga Beach Lodge to conduct turtle drives once per night in a 4×4 vehicle that is allowed to carry a maximum of 10 guests and that leaves one hour before low tide. This can mean some very late nights, but it’s worth it!

Don’t miss turtle nesting season ©Scott Ramsay, LoveWildAfrica.com

WHERE TO STAY

For accommodation options at the best prices, visit our collection of camps and lodges

Accommodation ranges from rustic trail camps to high-end lodges, so the park caters to almost every passion and budget, which explains why thousands of tourists worldwide visit each year.

If you’re a happy camper, you have your pick of the litter in iSimangaliso. The campsites in the park vary in size from a private 10-site facility at Mabibi Beach to a much larger facility divided into several camps at Sodwana Bay. It’s worth checking out the iSimangaliso website for further information to help you decide what suits you best.

Cranking the comfort up a notch, several self-catering options range from rustic huts to log cabins. These are based primarily in Kosi Bay, uMkhuze, False Bay, Eastern Shores and Maphelane, and you can make your choices depending on whether a swimming pool is of prime importance or ocean views are what makes you tick.

And if you’re only interested in catered lodges, try these incredible options that will cater to your every whim in the Coastal Forest section of the park – Kosi Forest Lodge, Makakatana Bay Lodge and Thonga Beach Lodge.

Find your ideal ready-made package for your next African safari – or ask us to build one just for you.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

Each season has something extraordinary to offer in this region, but you can expect more rain from November to February, which means that the vegetation is much greener. March to October are the cooler months when it is less humid, so if you love to walk or hate the heat, then this is the best time for you. And if you’re a twitcher, then June to August are the best months to bring your binoculars as this is breeding season.

Just be warned that if you do wish to visit the park over the South African school holidays, you’ll need to book accommodation well in advance.

iSimangaliso is a twitcher's paradise ©Scott Ramsay, www.LoveWildAfrica.com — iSimangaliso is a twitcher’s paradise ©Scott Ramsay, LoveWildAfrica.com

The wetlands during times of drought ©Paul Changuion, Makakatana Bay Lodge

Seaweed – 10 facts and interesting uses

Seaweed is a plant. All too often, when thinking of our vast floral biodiversity, we think of all the land plants and forget about the marine and aquatic plants out there. The Botanical Society of South Africa and Gavin Maneveldt, of the Department of Biodiversity and Conservation Biology at the University of the Western Cape open your eyes to some interesting facts about life in the sea and marine ‘flower beds’. Written by: Gavin Maneveldt and Catherine Browne

Oceans cover 71% of Earth’s surface and contain 97% of Earth’s water. Not surprisingly, the oceans are the largest source of biotic diversity on the planet. It is estimated that as much as 80% of all life on Earth is found under the ocean surface, and an estimated 90% of all photosynthetic life occurs in the oceans. This means that seaweeds and the microscopic algae of the ocean make up roughly nine-tenths of all the plant-like life on Earth.

Did you know these 10 facts about seaweeds?

1. Most of the world’s oxygen (about 70%) comes from seaweeds and other microscopic algae.

2. Seaweeds support primary production levels 6-10 times greater than the most intensive land-based agricultural systems.

3. It is estimated that there are nine times more microscopic algae and seaweeds in the oceans than plants on land.

4. Together with microscopic algae called phytoplankton, seaweeds (macroscopic algae) are responsible for all primary production in the oceans and, therefore, form the basis of the food chain in the oceans.

5. Seaweeds are amongst the fastest-growing organisms on the planet. For example, under optimal conditions, the giant kelp Macrocystis pyrifera, can grow nearly a metre (three feet) a day – attaining lengths over 50m.

6. While most seaweeds are soft and fleshy, many, particularly red seaweeds, are hard as rock. These hard red seaweeds, commonly known as coralline algae, deposit lime into their cell walls.

7. Strictly speaking, seaweeds are not plants. Only green seaweeds are considered plants as they have given rise to land plants. However, like plants, most algae and seaweeds depend on sunlight to create energy through photosynthesis.

8. Many argue that red seaweeds should be placed in a kingdom of their own. They are the only organisms on the planet with three life cycle stages.

9. Seaweeds assimilate minerals directly from the sea and are thought to be the most nutritious foods you can eat. Rich in trace elements and vitamins, many frequently contain more protein than meat and more calcium than milk.

10. The word seaweed is so commonly used, yet to refer to these marine algae as ‘weeds’ is very far from the truth. Although we often cannot smell or taste them, many ingredients in our foods and household products come from the sea and seaweed.

Common uses of seaweeds:

1. Green seaweeds:

– Eaten in the Far East as a green vegetable in salads and soups

– Are rich in carotenoids (an antioxidant, age-defying substance)

– Are now known to help prevent cancer (including breast cancer in women), heart disease and strokes.

– Beta carotene, derived from green seaweeds, is used as a yellow-orange food colourant in cheese, coffee creamers, egg substitutes, margarine, mayonnaise, multivitamins and salad dressings.

2. Whole brown seaweeds such as kelp:

– Considered an excellent detoxifying agent.

– Produce alginate, a substance of considerable economic value used as a gelling and emulsifying agent. For example, alginate prevents the formation of ice crystals in ice cream. In the medical industry, alginate is used to encapsulate tablets in powder form and to form fracture castings and moulds. Other alginate products include brownie mix, frozen foods, desserts, relishes, salad dressing, sauces, gravies and even beer foam.

– Kelp also contains an astonishing amount of vitamins and minerals, particularly iodine, which has a normalising effect on the thyroid gland that controls the body’s growth and development.

– In many countries, kelp is harvested as a feed and nutritional supplement for commercially farmed animals.

– Due to its high micronutrient contents, kelp is widely used as fertilisers and plant growth stimulants.

3. While the seaweed industry in the West is based mainly on seaweed extracts, in the East, seaweeds are cultivated in huge quantities for human consumption. Red seaweeds from the genus Porphyra (purple laver), in particular, contribute at least 80% of all seaweed harvested worldwide.

In Asia, Porphyra (known as nori) is eaten as a whole seaweed, either dried or in soups, and globally as tasty wrappings for sushi. Nori’s iodine and high vitamin and protein content make it attractive, as does the relative simplicity of its mariculture (sea farming), which began more than 300 years ago in Japan.

4. Besides food for direct consumption, red seaweeds are also important for their phycocolloid extracts. Phycocolloids are seaweed derivatives that cause particles to remain suspended in solution and are, therefore, excellent as stabilising and gelling agents. The main phycocolloids derived from red seaweeds are carrageenan and agar.

Carrageenan is highly sought-after in western societies and is especially important in the dairy industry. Milkshakes, cheese, yoghurt and powdered milk (including baby formula) all possess red seaweed carrageenan extracts. Carrageenan is also used in toothpaste, cosmetics, shampoos, paints and pet food.

Agar, on the other hand, has its most important use as a medium on which to culture fungi and bacteria in microbial and medical pathological research. In food for human consumption, agar is found in baking and confectionery products and is widely used to clarify wine, juice and vinegar due to its excellent protein-binding properties. In larger industries, agar is used to make adhesives and capsules for tablets.

Sweets made with agar © Gavin Maneveldt — Sweets made with agar ©Gavin Maneveldt

5. Due to their hard, calcified nature, encrusting coralline red seaweeds have several economic uses. In modern medical science, coralline algae are used to prepare dental bone implants. Coralline rubble (maerl) is used in calcium mineral supplements, as soil pH conditioners, in the filtration of acidic drinking water, and as food additives for livestock. Coralline algae are commonly used as “live rock” in the marine aquarium industry, and in many tropical communities, coralline rock is used as building stones.

12 edible indigenous South African plants

Edible indigenous plants offer a great way to eat well and garden sustainably. We share some great tips on indigenous plants that you can easily grow and harvest in your garden for medicinal remedies and exciting culinary experiences – courtesy of Good Hope Garden Nursery. Written by Roushanna Gray & Gael Gray

We have a treasure trove of edible and medicinal plants within our rich plant kingdom in South Africa. It is important to know what part of the plant to use and how it can be used for culinary concoctions; some are edible only in certain seasons or after certain preparations. Below is a selection of some of our favourites!

Planting these indigenous edibles into your garden gives you easy access to fresh flavours that, at the same time, can handle our harsh South African climate as they are water-wise and easier to maintain than your classic herb or veg. This makes it much simpler to connect to your food and the rhythm of nature in a fresh and wild way and enjoy playing with new recipes using these ingredients picked on your doorstep. The local birds, bees and insects will be grateful, too.

1. Pelargonium culallatum (wild malva)
– The leaves of this plant diffused into a tea can be used to treat stomach disorders.

– Bruised leaves can be used as a poultice for sores and wounds, and a rolled-up fresh leaf inserted in the ear (not too deep) can reduce earache.

– Add the leaves to your bath for a fragrant, relaxing soak to relieve tired muscles.

– Tickle your salads and baked goods pink with the flowers of the wild malva.

Edible indigenous plants © Werner Deblitz — © Werner Deblitz

This showy pelargonium grows to a height of one metre and flowers beautifully in post-fire years. It grows best in a sunny position in well-drained soil and looks best if pruned after flowering to prevent it from getting leggy.

Edible indigenous plants © Roushanna Gray — © Roushanna Gray

2. Pelargonium tomentosum (peppermint-scented pelargonium)
Peppermint pelargonium is high in essential oils.

– Use the flowers in salads and to decorate cakes.

– Simmer leaves in milk, strain and use in baking or as teas.

– Makes a delicious flavouring for ice cream.

– The leaves can be crushed and used to soothe bruises by adding the leaves to your bath or as a poultice.

Edible indigenous plants © Claire Mcnulty — © Claire Mcnulty

A shady position, compost and a bit of water in summer will keep this fast-growing pelargonium happy. One plant can cover 0.75m².

Edible indigenous plants © Kate Higgs — © Kate Higgs

3. Coleonema pulchellum (confetti bush)
– Traditionally used as a deodoriser, add this to potpourri

– This aromatic herb can be used in sweet or savoury dishes – strip the little leaves off the stems as with thyme.

Edible indigenous plants © Gabrielle Holmes — © Gabrielle Holmes

Known as false buchu, this lovely shrub grows to one metre or more in height and width. They like well-drained soil and a bit of compost, and they prefer a sunny position, although they do tolerate light shade. As with all fynbos, a mulch of compost or bark is beneficial as it keeps the shallow root system cool. It responds well to pruning.

4. Oxalis pes-caprae (wild sorrel)
The whole plant is edible, and it has a nice, sharp taste. It is sour due to the oxalic acid content, so don’t overeat.

– The flowers can be used in salads, and the heart-shaped leaves can be used as a garnish in salads and dips.

– The stalks and roots can be eaten raw or cooked in milk. Traditionally oxalis is used as an ingredient in ‘waterblommetjie stew’ and as a salt substitute.

Edible indigenous plants — © Roushanna Gray

We all take this lovely spring flower for granted. It occurs naturally in the Western Cape and doesn’t have to be planted. It regrows from little underground corms as soon as the rains start. It responds well to a bit of compost and a sunny position, although a bit of shade doesn’t stop them from flowering. They die down at the end of spring.

5. Artemesia afra (African wormwood)
– The wormwood is used medicinally to treat fever, colds, flu, sore throats, coughs, asthma, pneumonia and headaches.

– The bruised leaves can be used as a poultice for sores and wounds, and a rolled-up fresh leaf inserted in the ear (not too deep) can also help earache.

– The leaves have a very strong flavour, so use sparingly, but it makes a great addition to iced tea and herbal drinks.

– Crush for a beautiful flavour addition to cocktails.

This hardy shrub has delicate-looking foliage and can be used effectively in a herbaceous border. It is easy to grow, drought resistant and responds well to being composted. It should be pruned hard after flowering to keep it looking good. Excellent garden plant.

6. Carissa macrocarpa (num-num)
The beautiful berries of the num-num can be eaten as a fruit as they are very high in vitamin C and pectin.

– Excellent for making jam and preserves.

– They impart a gorgeous ruby-red hue to syrups and cordials.

This reasonably slow-growing summer rainfall coastal shrub grows best in nutrient-rich soil. It is often used as a windbreak or a security hedge plant but also stands very well on its own. It is drought-resistant and grows up to two metres. The num-num has lovely white flowers in spring and summer, followed by delicious fruit.

7. Tulbachia violacea (wild garlic)
The whole plant is edible.

– The flowers can be used in salads and as a garnish.

– The leaves can be used like chives or as an insect repellent.

– The roots have a very pungent garlic flavour (so use them sparingly) and can be used like regular garlic. They are particularly great in stews and roasts.

– A tea made from the roots or leaves is good for coughs and colds, and it has similar medicinal properties to regular garlic.

This excellent border plant has bluish-green leaves. It flowers profusely if watered through the summer months with attractive mauve flowers. It is easy to grow and is reported to keep moles away. It occurs naturally along the south coast.

8. Jasminum multipartitum (many-petalled jasmine)
This wonderful perfume-scented, delicate white star flower is used cosmetically and in potpourri.

– Use the flowers in salads, baking, teas or as a flavouring.

– Makes a beautiful garnish but discolours quickly, so it has to be used fresh and fast.

This plant has two forms – a scrambling shrub and a creeper. Both have beautifully scented large white jasmine flowers with a pink reverse from August to November. They are naturally widespread in summer rainfall areas. They will grow in sun or semi-shade and can tolerate wind.

9. Carpobrotus edulis (sour figs)
– The succulent leaves are excellent for skin problems like sunburn, bee and blue bottle stings, rashes, cold sores and insect bites.

– Chew on the leaves for sore throat relief.

– The fruits have a tamarind-tasting juicy seed centre and are used to make jams, chutneys and sauces.

– The pink flowers produce a sweeter-tasting fruit than the yellow flowers.

This fast-growing succulent ground-cover flowers from August to October. The large flowers are yellow but turn pink with age. It is widespread in the south Western Cape, where it is used as a pioneer plant to hold banks and exposed sand.

10. Mentha longifolia (balderjan)
– Use medicinally as a tea for stomach disorders as this plant has calming properties similar to exotic mint.

– Suitable for flavouring in baking, jams, syrups and salads.

– Can be used as regular mint for culinary uses.

This easy-to-grow herb is found naturally from the Cape to Lesotho. It grows in damp areas in sun and light shade.

11. Salvia africana lutea (aromatic sage)

– This sage can be used medicinally as a tea for coughs, colds and stomach ailments.

– A delicious herb in cooking as it works well with veg and pasta dishes, chicken, sauces, stews and roasts. Add a sprig and fish it out later, as it imparts a delicious flavour but is bitter to eat.

– Dry the leaves and store them in a glass jar in your spice cupboard or add them to a salt mix.

– Use the flowers as a garnish in salads.

It is a hardy coastal shrub and grows in sandy coastal soils. It forms a good windbreak and is an excellent pioneer plant. It is covered in orange blooms with darker bracts in the early spring.

Salvia africana lutea — © Roushanna Gray

12. Agathosma apiclata (garlic buchu)
It possesses a strong garlic scent and is high in essential oils.

– Adds a garlic flavour to cooking and baking.

– Good for flavouring vinegar and oils.

This metre-high, hardy shrub grows in coastal dunes and limestone soils of the Southern Cape, giving the ‘holiday’ smell to the Knysna area. It prefers a sunny position and is covered in white flowers in late winter.

PLEASE NOTE: Good Hope Gardens Nursery and Veld and Sea cannot take any responsibility for any adverse effects of using plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.

Extinct, then rediscovered – the ‘little violins’

Extinct, then rediscovered. Lachenalia mathewsii stands quite tall at 10-20 cm and produces beautiful bright yellow flowers in a spike with a spicy scent that attracts honeybees. The entire genus of Lachenalia is endemic to South Africa. They are commonly known as “viooltjies” (the Afrikaans word for ‘ little violin’) as they look like little violins. Written by: Dewidine van der Colff, Botanical Society employed Red List scientist with the CREW programme

Almost extinct. Lachenalia mathewsii in full flower with golden glowing yellow flowers. Picture by Ismail Ebrahim. — *Lachenalia mathewsii* in full flower with golden yellow flowers ©Ismail Ebrahim

Lachenalia mathewsii, once thought to be extinct, was rediscovered in 1983. Currently, the species is only known to exist on two sites – one on a farmer’s property where it is potentially protected, and the other on municipal grounds just outside Vredenburg where there might be development plans in the near future.

This species is currently listed as endangered according to the IUCN Red Listing system. Its main threats have been identified by Custodians of Rare and Endangered Wildflowers (CREW) volunteers visiting the sites and collecting threat and population data of this precious plant. The main threats are habitat loss as a result of potential development, habitat degradation due to grazing pressure, and fire exclusion which is needed to rejuvenate the species.

Previously, Lachenalia mathewsii‘s sunny disposition could be seen within seasonally moist Cape inland salt pans in Saldanha granite strandveld but the species has gone extinct in all of its historic localities.

Urgent attention should be given to Lachenalia mathewsii, and searches for more populations might ease its plight. However, the CREW project manager, Ismail Ebrahim, and our dearest volunteers, Oom Koos and his wife Tannie Elise, have been searching for years without much success. Our CREW FoTH (Friends Of Tygerberg Hills) team has also been very busy surveying the area without much luck. We hope that future searches may yield some fruit, however, based on the available suitable habitat, the hope of finding more sub-populations are very low.

Almost extinct. Oom Koss Claassens (CREW volunteer) explain how to locate Lachenalia mathewsii to Vatishwa Zikishe a CREW staff member. Picture by Ismail Ebrahim. — Oom Koss Claassens (CREW volunteer) explains how to locate *Lachenalia mathewsii* to Vatishwa Zikishe, a CREW staff member ©Ismail Ebrahim

CREW volunteers searching for Lachenalia. mathewsii plants on municipal ground west of Vredenburg, Western Cape, South Africa. Picture by Ismail Ebrahim. — CREW volunteers searching for *Lachenalia mathewsii* plants on municipal ground west of Vredenburg, Western Cape, South Africa ©Ismail Ebrahim

We aim to ignite the passion for conserving the little bits of natural veld that still remain within areas of high agricultural activities. For the future of biodiversity conservation and economic growth in South Africa, we really need to find the perfect balance as this relationship is unfortunately not a mutual one. We need nature more than nature needs us, so we need to conserve these precious species, their natural habitats and ecosystems so that one day future generations may experience the violins of the veld.

Almost extinct. Mass flowering display of Lachenalia mathewsii next to agricultural fields growing in Cape inland Salt pans in Saldanha Granite Strandveld. Picture by Ismail Ebrahim. — Mass flowering display of *Lachenalia mathewsii* next to agricultural fields growing in Cape inland Salt pans in Saldanha Granite Strandveld. © Ismail Ebrahim.

Many of the species of plants found in the Cape floristic regions are facing a similar threat, and public awareness is a vital part of protecting our precious plants, such as the Lachenalia mathewsii.

The Botanical Society of South Africa is a long-standing partner of CREW and many of our members volunteer with CREW. Become a member and get involved in citizen science.

Zimbabwe elephant hunter identified as German mogul Rainer Schorr

Leading animal rights group PETA has named the man they believe to be the German hunter who allegedly paid nearly £40,000 to shoot one of the largest remaining large-tusked elephants in Africa in a legal hunt. Several sources subsequently named the trophy hunter Rainer Schorr, a German businessman.

According to the Daily Telegraph and numerous other media sites, PETA in Germany offered a €1,000 reward to anyone who could identify the trophy hunter who killed what is thought to be the biggest elephant killed in Africa for 30 years and one of a dwindling remaining population of ‘super tuskers’. Photos of the dead elephant, the professional hunter and Rainer Schorr were circulated widely online at the time (see below).

In a case that echoes the furore that erupted after Cecil the lion was shot by an American dentist, 55-year-old Mr Schorr allegedly and, according to The Daily Telegraph, paid US$60,000 (£39,000) for a permit to hunt a large bull elephant.

The Daily Telegraph claimed that a former friend of Schorr recognised him from the photo of him posing with the body of the huge elephant. The man, who ended his eight-year friendship with Schorr more than a year ago over a business disagreement, said he was told a few weeks ago by a mutual friend that the businessman was on a hunting trip in Zimbabwe.

The former friend said that hunting was Mr Schorr’s “big passion” and that the entrepreneur partly owned a hunting farm in Namibia.

According to the Daily Telegraph, the former friend added: “On the other side, you have to be realistic; when that guy pays for a hunt, which is legal in Zimbabwe, you do nothing wrong according to national laws.”

This iconic elephant, one of the largest of a dwindling population of ‘super tuskers’, with tusks weighing in at 121 and 123lb, was shot on 7 October in a private hunting concession in the Malipati safari area in Masvingo Province. Rainer Schorr also allegedly killed other species during this hunting trip in Masvingo, including leopard and buffalo.

When approached by the Daily Telegraph, Rainer Schorr said: “I don’t know what you are talking about. You have the wrong person.” He claimed he was at a trade fair from 5-8 October in Munich, southern Germany when the hunt took place. He refused to provide evidence backing up his claim.

In Zimbabwe, hunting is legally permitted in certain areas, and the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority has said that the Malipati safari area, where the elephant was shot, is being leased out to the Chiredzi Rural District council under “arrangements where communities benefit from revenue generated from wildlife-based projects including hunting in the area”.

“Such hunts go a long way in assisting communities in the surrounding area,” said the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority.

It added that the elephant population of the Gonarezhou-Malipati complex was estimated at 11,452 elephants according to a 2014 aerial survey and that the Malipati safari area is allocated an annual sustainable quota and hunting permit.

Editorial note: More than four years after the publishing of this article, a lawyer claiming to represent Rainer Schorr contacted Africa Geographic and threatened legal action if this article was not removed, claiming that the trophy hunter in the photo is not his client. As a matter of courtesy Africa Geographic CEO Simon Espley temporarily removed this article from the public domain, while conducting further research amongst his networks as to the accuracy of the lawyer’s claims. On receiving irrefutable evidence that the hunter was indeed Schorr, Espley contacted Schorr’s lawyer and advised him of his findings. He gave the lawyer a period of time to produce evidence backing up his claim, advising him that in the absence of such evidence the article would again be made available to the public. The lawyer did not respond, and Espley subsequently made this article available again to the public.

18 000 Mauritian flying foxes: to cull or to treasure?

Islands are known to have high levels of endemicity with many unique species found only within their small areas. Madagascar, the land of the dodo, and several Indian Ocean islands such as Seychelles and Mauritius collectively form one of the 25 most biologically rich areas on earth. Mauritian flying foxes, found in Mauritius, are one such species. Yet it may soon join dodos on the extinct list. Written by: Fabiola Monty

Once occupying three islands in the southwestern part of the Indian Ocean, it is now found only in Mauritius due to habitat loss, cyclones and hunting. It is a threatened species that can play an important role in regenerating the severely degraded Mauritian native forests.

However, due to claims of economic losses from fruit growers, and assumptions that the population of the species has increased dramatically, a decision was made by the Mauritian government at the beginning of October 2015 to cull 20% of the bat’s global population. Despite local and international NGOs providing scientific evidence that this culling will not only be catastrophic for this threatened species but will also not solve the problem, around 18,000 Mauritian flying foxes are targeted and will soon be shot.

endemic-mauritius-flying-fox — © Jacques de Speville

We await the world’s response to the killing of 18,000 individuals of an endemic and threatened species for no justifiable reasons. Join the Campaign to help save the Mauritian flying fox.

endemic-bat-mauritius — © Jacques de Speville

mauritian-fruit-bat — © Jacques de Speville

Where did all the penguins go?

Penguins are in trouble – we all know that. But the extent of the population decline became clear when I attended a talk by Dr Stephen van der Spuy, executive director of SANCCOB. Written by: Georgina Lockwood

There are few things as delightful as watching a clumsy African/jackass penguin running like a schoolboy with his pants down, then transform into a master swimmer with torpedo-like agility as it dives into the ocean. The African penguin is such a character that it even has its own day – African Penguins Awareness Day.

I was at SANCCOB’s General Meeting at the Two Ocean’s Aquarium, learning about the charismatic penguins that attract 650,000 tourists to the sleepy coastal village of Simon’s Town and what SANCCOB is doing to save them – treating an average of 1,500 penguins in a non-oil-spill year.

The biological definition of a colony is: organisms of the same species, in this case, African penguins, living closely together to benefit from the safety found in numbers. Colonies of these suited-up little birds used to exist all along the southern African coastline. In the 1900s, it was estimated that there were between three and four million penguins – now, that’s a happy and healthy ‘colony’.

By 2014 there were only 19,000 breeding pairs dotted across South Africa, with another estimated 6,000 in Namibia – that’s not many, is it?

Penguins © Michael John Nicoll — Penguins at Dassen in 1908 © Michael John Nicoll

Penguins © Mikkel Houmøller — The African penguin colony at Boulders Beach in Simon’s Town in 2009© Mikkel Houmøller

Sadly, overfishing, habitat loss, oil spills and predation by domestic and man-introduced animals pose the biggest threats to the African penguin’s survival. The population in South Africa is now restricted to areas around Simons Town, Robben Island, Dyer’s Island, Stoney Point and Dassen Island, with 60% of the birds occurring on St Croix Island and Bird Island near Cape St. Francis.

What is SANCCOB doing to help? In 2006 SANCCOB embarked on a Chick Bolstering Project – treating between 800 to 900 penguin chicks per year and roughly 500 just between October and January that were abandoned by their parents in moulting season – a time during which the adults shed and regrow their tuxedos and are unable to feed. This is a natural occurrence, but as so few penguins are left, human intervention has been deemed essential for the aquatic bird’s survival. And the good news is, it’s working! A recent study has revealed that hand-reared chicks survive just as well as wild ones.

SANCCOB has treated 95,000 oiled, injured, abandoned, and ‘at risk’ African penguins and other seabirds since 1968 in Cape Town and Cape St. Francis, and in my humblest of opinions, this is a charity worth supporting.

Rescuing Beatrice the baby aardvark

What would you get if you mixed the body parts of a kangaroo, horse, rabbit and hyena and then, just for fun, added massive fingernails? Certainly, one of the most unique-looking animals in the world – the aardvark. Written by: Maria Diekmann, founder and director of REST

This fascinating creature has rarely been studied. Few are kept in captivity due to their nocturnal behaviour, difficulties with an artificial diet and the need for large foraging areas. Their teeth, located towards the back of their mouth, are susceptible to infection in captivity, but no one is exactly sure why. While found in most ranges of southern Africa and not listed as threatened or endangered, many believe the species is declining.

The Rare & Endangered Species Trust (REST) in Namibia is preparing a young female aardvark for release back into the wild. Caught in a snare and found on a private farm, she was close to death when given to REST. Once her wounds had been cleaned, the long task of healing and gaining weight began.

Beatrice, or “B’ as she has been nicknamed, is amazing. As a young female, she only weighs about 45lb (20kg) – adults can reach 143lb (65kg). She sleeps approximately 18 hours a day, and REST supplements her natural foraging with a milkshake of food, cereals, grains, fruit and honey, both in the morning and noon. She wakes up between 6pm and 8pm and is taken out to forage naturally in the bush in the same habitat where she was found. Initially, a soft rope leash was attached, but for a few weeks now, B has been walking unleashed with me.

Fortunately, we have years of experience following released Cape pangolins in the bush, so my staff and students are used to walking silently behind a creature late into the night.

Having never rehabilitated an aardvark before, I was slightly concerned initially. However, my experience with Cape pangolins prepared me for the habits and needs of a similar, mainly nocturnal, ant-eating species. Like the pangolin, the information about aardvarks is conflicting and often wrong – at least in the region where I work. Both species prefer ants to termites, and the tongue of the aardvark is much thicker but shorter than that of a pangolin, only about 6-8 inches long. While a pangolin mainly uses its long, narrow, sticky tongue to attract and capture ants, the aardvark digs much deeper and laps up the ants. During these tongue licks, they consume massive amounts of dirt and small rocks. These small pebbles are believed to help with digestion and are then chewed for up to 10 minutes with a crunching sound that would displease any dentist.

Beatrice has taught me so much about aardvarks. If she represents the species, they are one of the gentlest alive as long as they do not feel threatened. Her nose, which she pushes into the hard ground to sniff out ants before digging, is as soft as velvet, and her powerful front feet have nails five times larger than humans and can move a foot of soil in less than a minute. Her back legs are used for covering her faeces and walking, which she does with a long sloping back like a hyena.

I have contacted a manufacturer of tracking units so that she can be tracked when released – to date, other researchers have used an implanted radio device, so I am gathering information on the best way forward. By Christmas 2015, Beatrice should be walking free. She will be monitored for health and safety, and I am confident that after months of rehab in the same area, she will do fine on her own.

PALF’s dogs sniff out illegal bushmeat

The town of Ouesso lies in the heart of the rainforest in northern Congo. Spider webs of logging roads emanate from the settlement, dissected by the ‘forest highway’ of the Sangha River. The town’s location and accessibility from the forest make it a hub for the illegal wildlife trade. Bushmeat is openly sold in the markets with little regulation.

Although the spectacle of grimacing monkey carcasses and hacked crocodile tails on display at market stalls is an alarming sight to be confronted with, bushmeat has been an important source of protein for rural communities within the forest for centuries. However, today bushmeat usage has evolved from the small-scale, local consumption of the past. It has developed into large-scale exploitation with trade, shifting to the lucrative business of transporting the meat to cities for consumption by the urban elite as a delicacy, thus rendering the industry completely unsustainable.

The transportation of large amounts of bushmeat away from rural forest communities to urban areas is illegal in the Republic of Congo. At the end of 2014, the governor of Sangha province issued a statement to reinforce the application of these environmental laws – an important move for the region’s wildlife and its rural people whose livelihoods have come under threat due to the greedy exploitation of their primary food source.

In August 2015, the annual Congolese Independence Day celebration took place in Ouesso. Thousands of people travelled north from the more populated south of Congo to attend the Independence Day celebrations. The PALF (Project for the Application of Law for Fauna in the Republic of Congo) sniffer dogs were posted on the main road out of Ouesso to search the mass exodus of vehicles from the north during the days following the 15th.

2. Vehicles line up at Yengo-Mambili check point. A team of eco-guards from Odzala-Koukoua National Park permanently mans Yengo-Mambili control post. The boom gate is the only permanent wildlife product focused control post on the main road from northern Congo to the urban areas in the south. — Vehicles line up at Yengo-Mambili checkpoint. A team of eco-guards from Odzala-Koukoua National Park permanently man Yengo-Mambili control post. The boom gate is the only permanent wildlife product control post on the main road from northern Congo to the urban areas in the south.

3. An African palm civet (Nandinia binotata) found in a vehicle heading south to Brazzaville. — An African palm civet (Nandinia binotata) found in a vehicle heading south to Brazzaville.

4. Three confiscated crocodiles keenly await their release as the team continues to search the constant flow of vehicles passing through the control post. — Three confiscated crocodiles keenly await their release as the team continues to search the constant flow of vehicles passing through the control post.

The dogs continue working late into the night when there is a much higher chance of illegal products being transported.

Bushmeat — Buses loaded with luggage and passengers are searched. This requires encouraging all the passengers to exit the vehicle and wait beyond the barrier while the dogs search the bus’s interior.

Read more about dogs working in Africa: Conservation’s Best Friend

The Cape Winelands with a difference

A visit to the Cape Winelands is a great way to spend a sunny Saturday, a long weekend or a couple of nights tacked on to a holiday in Cape Town. And recently, I was privileged enough to spend four glorious Cap Classique-filled days in the area.

However, even after a very long weekend, I felt like I hadn’t even skimmed the surface of the many wonders the Cape Winelands offers.

With so many places to stay, wines to drink and fresh produce to stuff into my mouth, choosing which farms to visit was a tough decision and already had me reaching for the nearest glass of Pinotage. I wanted to see the farms that cared about what they gave back to the soil, the people and the environment.

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This treading lightly approach didn’t mean that I visited strictly sustainable or organic establishments, but simply that I chose to visit wine estates that are both making a difference and trying to offer something different.

honeycomb-at-bablyonstoren — Beekeeping not only saves bees, but it also means a fantastic supply of raw honey ©Babylonstoren

My first stop was Boschendal, where a thoughtful dinner in my charming room went down a treat after a long day at work; especially when I spotted the bottle of Blanc de Noir reflecting the sun setting over the Simonsberg Mountains.

piggyback-simonsberg-babylonstoren — A piggyback against the stunning backdrop of the Simonsberg Mountains ©Babylonstoren

Boschendal was the perfect start to my Cape Winelands trip, considering that the first malva pudding ever served in a restaurant was rumoured to have been on that farm in the summer of 1979. And years after that famous dish touched the lips of awe-struck diners, I arrived on Heritage Day just in time for the farm’s 330th birthday bash! Boschendal has an admirable minimum food-miles policy of growing as much of the restaurant’s produce on the farm as possible – a pasture-fed black Angus cattle was on the spit that day, with no packaging or antibiotics included. A herb and veggie garden lies in front of the Werf Restaurant, and any food not locally grown or reared is sourced from sustainable small producers in the area.

cattle-amongst-the-vines — Pasture-fed steer wander amidst the vines ©Boschendal

From Boschendal, it was an easy meander down the road to quirky Babylonstoren, where Gundula, the resident gardener, introduced me to her pride and joy. As she strolled through the garden of edible greens in her zig-zag skirt and Pippy Longstocking socks, she spoke of how the team at Babylonstoren had nurtured a virtual wasteland into what is now the heart of the farm. This seasonal wonderland is home to laughing ducks that may waddle behind the occasional bride but whose real job is to act as an organic pest control by chomping up snails. An insect hotel also ensures that the organic produce from the garden is as fresh on your plate as it was on the bush.

Working-ducks-cross-the-bridge-to-the-vineyards,-cape-winelands-babylonstoren — Hi ho, hi ho, it’s off to work we go! Ducks file off for a great day’s work of chomping snails ©Babylonstoren

breakfast-at-babylonstoren — Farm-fresh juices at Babylonstoren ©Janine Avery

room-service-at-the-insect-hotel — Room service at the insect hotel, which provides a home for pollinators and pest controllers ©Babylonstoren

After an early wake-up call followed by a stretch of yoga in the blissful Babylonstoren spa, I left behind the traditional Cape Dutch farms and moved on to the modern setting of Leopard’s Leap. While I indulged there in a Culinaria Food and Wine Pairing, it dawned on me that the magic of the Cape Winelands is thanks to the passion of its people. Creating wine is an art form – each grape is lovingly cared for, each wine tenderly nurtured, and every bite of food is that wine’s soulmate – bringing out the best. And La Motte, the sister farm of Leopard’s Leap, also adds another passion to the mix with a museum that features a rotating gallery of local art and is dedicated to Jacob Hendrick Pierneef, whose famous linocut designs adorn the estate’s Pierneef collection of premium wines.

La Motte is also a proud champion of the Biodiversity and Wine Initiative (now called WWF Conservation Champions) – a collaboration project between the wine industry and the conservation sector that recognises farms leading the way in production integrity, environmental sustainability and conservation.

leopards-leap-wine-barrels — A treasure cove of divine wine ©Leopard’s Leap Family Vineyards

This passion for the natural environment was evident in the Cape Winelands, with nearly 90% of South African wine producers now displaying the Integrity and Sustainability Seal. At Leopard’s Leap, faces lit up at the mere mention of the Cape Leopard Trust, of which they are a sponsor. Jeannie and Anita are doing great work in the Cape Winelands and beyond to preserve over 60 Cape leopards that call the area home. A mother leopard with small cubs has even been spotted just up the slopes from the vineyards.

After all the food, a short nap was appreciated in a shiny bedroom complete with feathered lamps at Jordan Wine Estate – a far cry from the famous Cape Dutch gables but a great example of how the traditional and modern have interwoven themselves throughout the area. At Jordan, the natural environment gives each wine its unique appeal, and every wine has its own story. The one that stood out for me was the chameleon range, inspired by the Cape dwarf chameleon. Proceeds from the wine even go to the Jordan Chameleon Bursary for the conservation of these cute little creatures. I had the pleasure of tasting more of these wines at Jordan Restaurant, which has been voted one of the country’s top ten restaurants by Eat Out, and is where the famous George Jardin uses local ingredients to create delicious masterpieces.

Cape Winelands — Shopfronts in Stellenbosch, a town steeped in history and a fascinating culture ©Janine Avery

From Jordan, it was on to the ever-popular Spier Wine Estate, exploring the farm on a Segway tour and indulging at Eight Restaurant. Eight offers a farm-to-table experience with an inventive tapas-style menu allowing you to choose from various delights. At the same time, I took in the nifty recycled fixtures, such as the 10,000 flower-shaped roof fittings made from old milk bottles.

My last day brought a tour of Stellenbosch by bicycle, courtesy of Adventure Shop. This low carbon emission tourism experience saw me weaving through town, learning more about Stellenbosch’s heritage and Cape Dutch influence. It was then time for a final spot of wine tasting as I cycled from farm to farm while soaking up the breathtaking scenery. To round off the day nicely, we visited the Cape Winelands region’s most picturesque tasting room at Stark-Condé. We enjoyed hand-crafted chocolates with fine wines at Lanzerac. The cycle back allowed me to work off the fantastic food and wine from the week, and while I stopped to give my tired legs a break, I thought about how lucky I am to live within easy reach of an area so rich in history, culture and culinary delights.

And now, the next time I pick up a bottle of my favourite Sauvignon Blanc, I will know that it has its own story.

My top picks of what to do:

Go horse riding at Boschendal
Take a ride on a Clydesdale – the working (but not too hard) horses. These happy plodders will take you around the farm, passing the pasture-fed Angus cattle while you take in the surrounding views of the Drakenstein Valley. With almost half of the farm’s land set aside to conserve the fauna and flora of the Cape Floral Kingdom, overnight guests are encouraged to explore by mountain bike or on foot.

Vineyard and cellar tours at Jordan
Jordan Wine Estate is a bit off the beaten track, but getting there is worth the extra effort. The tour of the estate’s vineyards by Gary Jordan allowed me to take in the fabulous location of Jordan with its 360° views of the Winelands, oceans and even Table Mountain. Finish the tour in the estate’s underground cellar and appreciate how their Chardonnay is made – with a glass of it in hand.

Segway tours at Spier
Enjoy the 300 hectares of biodynamic farming, where mobile chicken coops and pasture-reared Angus cattle are used to fertilise vineyards. Pass by the free-range chickens and whizz past the wastewater treatment plant where all of the farm’s wastewater is recycled, which means that Spier is not even batting an eyelid even after the Cape’s driest winter since before I was born.

My top picks of where to stay:

Boschendal
Boschendal offers several accommodation options – you and ten friends can even spend time in Cecil John Rhodes’ holiday home playing bowls, dining under the stars and swimming in your own eco-pool. Franschhoek, Paarl and Stellenbosch are all within a 15-minute drive, making Boschendal the perfect base for your ultimate Winelands getaway.

Spier
Spier is an excellent choice for families. There is so much to do at the farm, from picnicking with homemade deli treats to exploring the educational protea garden or visiting the Eagle Encounters rehabilitation centre. It is also a hop, skip and a jump away from many of Stellenbosch’s other great farms, markets, restaurants and shops.

Find out about the Cape Winelands as part of your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

children-having-fun-at-spier-wine-farm — Fun for all the family ©Spier Wine Farm

My top picks of where to eat:

Jordan Restaurant
This is the locally sourced strawberry on top of Stellenbosch’s culinary collection. The menu changes daily and is prepared by a team of seven expert chefs in an open kitchen. As some of the last guests to leave, we had the privilege of eavesdropping on the multi-talented George Jardin as he planned the menu for the next day, ordering the freshest ingredients from his suppliers – a process which takes at least an hour and a half after the last guest has gone to bed. This results in the freshest, most exquisite four-course meal, and I suggest you indulge in their food and wine pairing menu, then skip the sweet stuff for a trip into the cheese room, where I selected a fantastic array of South Africa’s top cheeses to round off my meal.

Babel
The menu at Babylonstoren’s signature restaurant changes daily according to what vegetables and fruit have been gathered from the garden. The fresh papaya that Gundula discovered on my garden tour undoubtedly found its way into the generous three-course wonder offered at Babel that evening.

Leopard’s Leap
Relaxed rotisserie lunches with wine cocktails are offered at Leopard’s Leap from Wednesday to Sunday. Alternatively, their cooking classes often result in full bellies being supported by wobbly legs that need the help of newfound friends to find the door when it’s time to go home. The food and wine pairing is an intimate experience that is said only to get better the more times you partake!

Pierneef à la Motte
The Pierneef à la Motte restaurant overlooks a gorgeous pond, and diners can enjoy meals made from biologically farm-grown produce. The farm shop also sells this produce and a variety of freshly-baked bread – including a Shiraz loaf. However, the highlight for me was the Winelands Tea Experience, where homemade confectionaries were paired with my gorgeous crème caramel tea selection. Not to mention that the Van der Hum truffle was to wine for!

Lemurs of Madagascar – photo gallery

For the last 88 million years, life on Madagascar has been on its own – creating an island of evolutionary oddities and diverse safari travel experiences. Sometimes referred to as a “Noah’s Ark” or the “eighth continent” due to its geographic isolation and high levels of endemism, the island is home to over 110 species of lemurs.

In this gallery, we celebrate some of these lemurs:

Black and white ruffed lemur ©Alison Buttigieg

Ring-tailed lemur ©Alison Buttigieg

Crowned lemur ©Alison Buttigieg

Verreaux’s sifaka ©Alison Buttigieg

Indri lemur ©Alison Buttigieg

Red-fronted brown lemur ©Alison-Buttigieg

Ring-tailed lemur mother and baby ©Alison Buttigieg

Diademed sifaka ©Alison Buttigieg

White-footed sportive lemur ©Alison Buttigieg

Grey mouse lemur ©Alison Buttigieg

More about lemurs

The IUCN currently recognizes 107 species of lemurs, but their classification is an ongoing process that incorporates new knowledge and research on a regular basis. The lemurs of Madagascar have evolved with the island, influencing the plant life, and filling every available niche to for an astoundingly diverse superfamily of multitudinous shapes and sizes.

Unravelling the history of the animal occupants of Madagascar has proved somewhat complicated for scientists because, despite the existence of various dinosaur fossils, there are almost no fossil records from around 66 million years ago to about 26,000 years ago. However, through a series of complex genetic studies, researchers believe that rather than already being present when Madagascar broke away, the ancestors of modern lemurs arrived sometime after it achieved its geographic isolation, probably between 50 and 60 million years ago. Since then, the family has evolved in a wide variety of diverse primates whose closest relatives are bushbabies (galagos), lorises and pottos. Read more about lemurs here.

More about Madagascar

Southern & central Madagascar

Northern Madagascar

Western Madagascar

Eastern Madagsacar

Find out about your next African safari – what, where and when. Also, find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

About the photographer

ALISON BUTTIGIEG is a Maltese IT Consultant and self-taught Wildlife Photographer. She loves spending time in the wilderness – especially if it happens to be in Africa – photographing the wild animals inhabiting the wilderness areas. I

For more of Alison’s images, go to www.alisonbuttigieg.com
Alison’s Facebook Page: www.facebook.com/AlisonButtigiegPhotography

Elephants held hostage in Laikipia

It started with a phone call. The man on the other end of the line reported seven elephants stuck in the mud on the community side of the 164km West Laikipia fence near Pesi. The news was not promising – we needed to make a plan – quickly!

Word had already reached the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS), and they were on their way to the scene – a two-hour drive from Nanyuki, where Space for Giants (SFG) offices are located. We jumped in a vehicle and headed into the bush.

The story changed as we neared the scene, getting hopelessly lost on the narrow tracks between maize fields. The elephants were not stuck – the community was holding them hostage.

The moment we reached the dam, we were mobbed by several hundred local community members. We spotted the KWS senior warden for Laikipia County trying to placate a group of 50 men surrounding him. He had his hands full.

We pushed through the crowd to reach the dam’s edge and assess the situation. One boy of about ten years of age stopped us, “elephants eat my maize,” he mumbled in broken English.

Now we understood. These seven males, all known fence-breaking elephants to SFG researchers, had broken through the West Laikipia fence that is supposed to separate community land from large-scale ranches, where wildlife is tolerated. The elephants had smashed through the fence, entered the community land and destroyed a large crop of maize. The villagers were furious, understandably so. They had seen their livelihoods destroyed before their eyes. They wanted compensation. They wanted these elephants dead.

Human-elephant conflict in the Laikipia area is amongst the worst in East Africa and probably the most severe in Kenya. In 2007, SFG estimated that elephant crop raiding had cost local communities over US$1 million in lost revenue. These losses are catastrophic.

The KWS rangers had the situation under control – but it felt like a time bomb. You could feel the tension in the air. All the villagers were armed with sticks and machetes, angrily demonstrating at the elephants huddled together in the dam no more than 50 metres away. It would not take much to see this situation erupt into violence and bloodshed.

SFG called in support from our partners at Lewa Conservancy and Ol Pejeta Conservancy and chartered a support helicopter from Tropic Air – these elephants would have to be pushed from the dam. Soon a helicopter emerged over the horizon.

The helicopter’s arrival sent the crowd into a frenzy – it was there to help the elephants and not them. The KWS did well to control the crowd. But their increasing frustration was now aimed at the elephants, eager to leave and approaching the dam’s edge. The villagers mobilised themselves and set all the vegetation surrounding the dam on fire. A gang of 30-50 men started throwing stones. The crowd screamed and whistled. The elephants were trapped – and they knew it. They retreated and sought another way out, only to receive the same treatment. The panicked elephants huddled together in the centre of the dam, unsure of what to do as smoke filled the air and stones splashed around them.

There was no way of stopping the crowd from doing this – by now, they numbered at least 400 – a few rangers with guns would not intimidate them. The helicopter attempted to push them away by flying low overhead, but it only fueled their resistance. It was a standoff.

Suddenly one of the elephants – the one that had been attempting to escape for hours already, made his move. It had had enough. It was showered in stones and sticks as it reached the shallows, fires roaring in the background. It charged into the crowd that scattered before it. We lost sight of it immediately amongst the maize.

The Tropic Air helicopter reacted quickly, and the experienced pilot managed to steer it away from the fleeing crowd and to safety.

The courage of this elephant seemed to infect the three remaining elephants. As the helicopter returned, the police and KWS helped disperse the individuals trying to prevent the elephants from escaping, and the helicopter guided them out of the dam. Nevertheless, the remaining three elephants were in no mood to move. Stubbornly they huddled together and waited for night to fall. Under the cover of darkness, they slipped away unharmed.

The whole incident was bittersweet. There are no winners here. We are delighted all the elephants got away largely unharmed, but this incident illustrates the true state of affairs in Laikipia County. Local communities living side by side with these giants suffer significant losses daily and have little reason to value elephants. When elephants raid their farms, their complaints and requests for compensation fall on deaf ears – when an elephant is in danger, there is a monumental response from both the public and private sectors. The inequalities are all too clear.

The solution?

The rehabilitation of the West Laikipia fence. There has never been a more pertinent example of the need for a fence to separate man and beast. In Laikipia, the peaceful coexistence that we as conservationists strive for depends on a barrier made of wire, posts and 8,000 volts. It may not be pretty – but it works.

Space for Giants is an international conservation charity in Kenya through a local charitable trust with an independent board. SFG also focuses on mitigating human-elephant conflict in Laikipia County, securing space for these giants to roam and training the next generation of conservationists.

Hermanus & the not so False Bay

I am lucky to call Cape Town home because it means I’m able to enjoy the ocean right alongside mountain wilderness, five-star dining enhanced by fine wines, a buzzing art scene and a vibrant nightlife, the ramifications of which can be cured with exceptional coffee found on every street. To leave Cape Town for a holiday seems like madness, but perhaps it’s okay if it’s just for a weekend.

steam-train-fish-hoek — Top: Atlantic Rail’s “Katie” Steams towards Simonstown ©Anton Crone. Middle: Victorian buildings line the main street of Simonstown ©Cape Town Tourism. Bottom: Boulders penguin colony in Simonstown is the protected home of more than 2,000 endangered African penguins ©Mikkel Houmøller

A certain train leaves Cape Town for Simonstown in False Bay every second weekend. Catch it, and you’ll travel back in time – not just because Simonstown clings to a bygone era, but because this train runs on steam. As you chug away from Cape Town, the expanse of False Bay is steadily revealed. Before long, the ocean is almost lapping at the rails, the hiss of the engine marks your passage in time and you eventually arrive, with a steamy shudder, in the 1800s.

Victorian buildings line Simonstown’s streets. With shuttered windows flung open to the bay and naval flags lining the eaves, it’s clearly the ocean upon which this town thrives. A centuries-old naval base gives credence to the old cannons that spike the surrounding hills, and a yacht club lures sailing ships from around the world. Not far from the old town, on the way towards the jagged cliffs of the Cape Peninsula, penguins make their home on protected beaches, and False Bay’s secrets of kelp forests and strange creatures are hidden beneath the waves.

Find out about Cape Town for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.

It’s a wonderful place from which to explore the peninsula, surf the waves of Muizenberg and commune in the antiquarian haunts and coffee shops of nearby Kalk Bay. But don’t miss lunch at The Flagship back in Simonstown. Chef Duncan Doherty is the relaxed and funny host of this unique establishment – more of a delightful home than a lodge and restaurant.

The-Flagship-13-(PREF) — Top: The view over False Bay from the deck of The Flagship. Middle: Chef Duncan Doherty’s fare is inspired by the ocean on his doorstep ©The Flagship. Bottom: The author chats to a Hermanus fisherman while looking out over Walker Bay ©Romy Chevallier.

Nicole-Krummacher-flagship-fish-plate — Top: The view over False Bay from the deck of The Flagship. Middle: Chef Duncan Doherty’s fare is inspired by the ocean on his doorstep ©The Flagship. Bottom: The author chats to a Hermanus fisherman while looking out over Walker Bay ©Romy Chevallier.

Much of his fare comes from the ocean on his doorstep, and although many arrive at his table as strangers, they soon kick their shoes off as friends. I kicked mine off, made some new American friends and stayed the night, anticipating the next leg of my next trip around False Bay on a more modern form of transport.

If motorcycles came with cup holders, I might have taken off immediately, but coffee was enjoyed sitting on Kalk Bay’s vibrant street, gazing alternately at the passersby and the imposing motorcycle that Tyger Valley Harley Davidson had lent me. I couldn’t help comparing it to a steam train because it handled like it was on rails. The size of the bike belies surprisingly nimble handling on the most curvaceous of bends.

Sticking to the coast after Muizenberg, the road skirts along a windswept stretch of beach, making up the deepest cut of False Bay; then, after crawling through Strand and Gordons Bay, you are rewarded with the most scenic stretch of coastal road in South Africa, if not the entire continent. It’s also the most fun. You can’t take a train around the tight turns of Clarence Drive, but on a bike, it becomes a fairground ride enhanced by the sea air washing up from the waves below and the breathtaking views around every bend.

birkenhead-house-Terrace-Sunset — The view from Birkenhead House’s pool deck at sunset ©Birkenhead House.

When the curves run out, you can’t just stop and turn around, no matter how enticing the road. Hermanus is too close to ignore, especially during the whale season, and it’s a perfect base to explore the beautiful Hemel-en-Aarde wine valley just outside Hermanus and commune with the water creatures of Walker Bay.

Birkenhead House is an incredible base, the hotel’s location being the envy of many – on a small cliff-top in Hermanus overlooking Walker Bay, where so many whales come to calve their young.

The unobtrusive entrance gives little away of its wonderful interior. As you descend its three expansive levels, flanked by an enviable collection of contemporary art, the ocean grows larger and larger in your view until you walk through the lounge and stand on the pool deck with the entire bay at your feet. Then a whale waves a flipper in greeting, a chilled glass of wine is put in your hand, and you think, perhaps getting away from Cape Town is something I should do more often.

Practical info

HERMANUS

ivanhoe-whales — Top: ©Ivanhoe. Bottom: ©African Wings

Humpbacks2 — Top: ©Ivanhoe. Bottom: ©African Wings

Whale Watching by boat: Ivanhoe Sea Safaris specialises in boat-based whale watching from June to September. They are located in Gansbaai, just 40 minutes from Hermanus, operating in the waters of Walker Bay which is famous for its whale activity. Ivanhoe also offers eco trips focussing on the wider marine life and private charters.

Whale Watching by plane: African Wings takes off from Stanford, just 25 minutes from Hermanus, giving you a unique perspective on the whales in Walker Bay. Flights take up to three people and vary in duration between 30, 45 and 60 minutes. African Wings also offers a variety of scenic flights and tailor-made experiences.

Wine tasting in the Hemel-en-Aarde valley:

Before reaching Hermanus when driving from Cape Town, turn left onto the R320 Hemel-en-Aarde Road to explore the wines and landscape of this beautiful valley. It’s a refreshing alternative to Franschhoek and Stellenbosch, with a wide selection of award-winning vineyards and restaurants.

Ataraxia’s tasting room, The Wine Lounge, is built as a chapel situated on what must be the most spectacular spot in the valley – an ideal place to sit and contemplate their delicious wines.

Creation Wines has wonderful wine pairings with tapas, brunch pairings and a secret food & wine pairing.

Birkenhead-Clifftop-Panoramic — ©Birkenhead House

Birkenhead House is situated in a quiet part of Hermanus on a cliff-top overlooking the whale haven of Africa. It comprises three houses with 11 eclectically decorated rooms, a spa, gym, and two pools. Stylish luxury contrasts with a laid-back atmosphere that has you feeling completely at home. Everything is at your own pace here, and the staff treat you more like friends than guests.

SIMONSTOWN

Boulders penguin colony:
As part of Table Mountain National Park, Boulders Beach is the protected home of over 2,000 endangered African penguins. But it doesn’t mean you can’t visit to delight in the antics of these characterful birds. From the turnstile entrance, a walkway means you can view the penguins without destroying their natural habitat, and there is also access to a sheltered beach where you and the kids can swim – but don’t touch the penguins.

The penguins are supported by SANCCOB (Southern African Foundation for the Conservation of Coastal Birds)

Simonstown waterside and Naval Museum:

The variety of eclectic shops, restaurants and cafés on Simonstown’s main street and waterside belie the quaint size of this town. You can lose yourself here for a day hunting down that art piece, learning about the history and sampling the tasty wares of its restaurants and cafés.

Hard work like this needs a respite, and the restaurants on the waterfront are a good place to relax for a maritime meal while you watch the sailboats bob in the harbour. Boat excursions to Cape Point and Seal Island can also be arranged here with Boat Company and whale watching excursions in False Bay.

Simonstown Naval Museum:

The town’s naval history goes back to 1810, when the Royal Navy moved its headquarters from Cape Town to Simonstown. It’s a fascinating place to learn about the history of South Africa’s fighting and defensive ships, from the days of sails through to the minesweepers and submarines of World War 2 and beyond. Most surprising are the mapped records of German U-boat activity along South Africa’s coast, making one realise this wasn’t necessarily a quiet theatre of maritime war.

Lunch at The Flagship:

Chef Duncan Doherty hails from the renowned culinary and wine capital of Franschhoek, his connection with wine and food showing in his portfolio of work with Haute Cabriere, Fancourt, The Lanzerac Hotel and the Graham Beck Wine Estate. At The Flagship, he builds your 5-course meal around the best wines, pairing them with local, sustainable seafood in a relaxed atmosphere that makes you feel completely at home. To top it off, four sea-facing suites are waiting for you so you can linger in Simonstown for much longer.

Kalk Bay

This seaside town is the hip sister of Simonstown with restaurants, cafés and shops that range from cool and funky to discerning and chic. Kalk Bay’s harbour is a small, buzzing fish market where fishing boats offload their catch daily. A couple of tasty fish and chip restaurants line the harbour, and the finer fare can be found at Harbour House, with a view over the crashing waves of False Bay. Punctuating the shops of this town are several cafés, each with its own eclectic vibe, but make sure to sample the fare of Lekker, an Afrikaans word meaning “tasty”.

GETTING AROUND

Rent a Harley Davidson:

The Western Cape’s coastal roads are ideal for two-wheel touring – with twisty roads and incredible scenery, there’s no better way to experience it. If it’s for a weekend away, you can fit everything you need on a tourer like the Ultra Limited, which has enough luggage space for you and a passenger.

Let off some steam with Atlantic Rail:

Atlantic Rail gets underway every second weekend, steaming down the track towards Simonstown or Stellenbosch and back again. Invite friends and family, take a picnic along, and if you really want to get into the swing of it, wear period costume for a true journey back in time.

About the author

ANTON CRONE quit the crazy-wonderful world of advertising to travel the world, sometimes working and drifting. Along the way, he unearthed a passion for Africa’s stories – not the sometimes hysterical news agency headlines we all feed off, but the real stories. Anton strongly empathises with Africa’s people and their need to meet daily requirements, often in remote, environmentally hostile areas co-habitated by Africa’s free-roaming animals.

Rats sniff out landmines in Mozambique

His Excellency Minister Oldemiro Júlio Margues Baloi – Mozambique’s Minister of Foreign Affairs – has declared the country free of all known landmines.

APOPO, has been working in the country to help clear the landmines since 2007, extended their heartfelt congratulations to the people and government of Mozambique. Tess Tewelde, APOPO’s Head of Mine Action Africa, said, “APOPO is extremely proud to have played a part in this historic achievement that now allows the people of Mozambique to finally live without the fear of landmines and explosive remnants of war.”

Following the completion of remaining landmine sites in Manica and Sofala provinces in early 2015, APOPO proudly and safely finalised all their humanitarian tasks in Mozambique, in the process destroying a total of 13,274 landmines and returning 11,124,446 square metres of land for safe and productive use.

APOPO has helped rid five provinces of landmines, returning safe land to local communities to live, work, farm and play without fear. Most households in these areas are headed by smallholder farmers who have been unable to use the land to grow crops and sustain their livestock for decades until APOPO arrived to clear and release the area.

APOPO remains in the country at the request of the National Institute of Demining to continue providing technical expertise and capacity for any residual or remaining clearance work, such as the former ammunition store now known as the Malhazine Ecological Park, which Mozambique’s Ministry of Environment is transforming into a nature reserve, educational and tourism centre.

Mozambique’s landmine problem was once one of the most severe in the world, with a legacy of landmines and explosive remnants of war from decades of conflict. Thousands of landmines were laid in the country during its 1964-1975 fight for independence and the following civil war. All factions used landmines to defend provincial and district towns, roads, airstrips, key bridges, power supply infrastructure and military posts. Although the civil war ended in the early 1990s, landmines and unexploded ordnance have continued to claim hundreds of lives of innocent people and hinder development.

A large-scale mine clearance effort was launched in 1993 by the United Nations Operations in Mozambique and international NGOs. At that time, Mozambique was considered one of the most mine-affected countries in the world.

As well as traditional approaches to mine action such as manual de-miners with metals detectors, ground preparation, and de-mining machines, APOPO also deploys its unique mine detection rats to help speed up operations as they detect only explosive material (TNT) and ignore harmless scrap metal. One HeroRAT can check an area of 200m² in about 20 minutes – a task that would take a conventional de-miner up to four days.

Welfare of elephants in captivity comes under question

An NSPCA report has revealed that tourists are still riding elephants in South Africa, despite a growing international move away from the controversial practice. Written by: Melissa Reitz

A report by the NSPCA (National Council of SPCAs) on the welfare status of elephants in captivity at 26 elephant facilities nationwide (14 of which offer elephant-back riding) reveals that nearly all captive elephants suffer welfare deficiencies in one way or another. This highlights the fact that South Africa is lagging in a growing global trend against using captive elephants for entertainment.

The report, compiled by the NSPCA’s Wildlife Protection Unit, has been submitted to all relevant government departments in South Africa and NGOs nationally and abroad and offers a scientific overview of the cruel realities that many captive elephants endure physically and emotionally.

The report also confirms the lack of conservation benefits of the captive elephant industry. The WWF (World Wide Fund for Nature) and IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) do not consider captive breeding a significant contribution to elephant conservation due to low breeding and high mortality rates. Also noted in the report is the high number of human injuries and fatalities due to public interaction with captive elephants.

According to the NSPCA report, more than half of the 26 facilities keeping captive elephants for public interaction use a method called: “free contact”, which includes the use of physical punishment, using an ankus or hook, to train elephants into submission.

“If tourists knew what it took to train an elephant for their ‘pleasure’, South African tourism could be damaged,” states Dr Mandy Lombard of Public Watch. “Although we hear of people being killed, few incidents where elephant handlers or tourists are attacked have been publicised.”

In the rest of the world, a growing movement against elephant back riding is emerging – with many travel agencies taking elephant riding off their itineraries and dissuading customers from supporting the practice.

Unlike South Africa, thirty-seven countries across the globe have bans on animals in circuses, including Mexico, Greece, Belgium and the Netherlands. Although not yet nationally endorsed, certain states of America have also issued circus animal bans. Still, England remains divided on this as political parties debate whether or not to change legislation.

Also read: Lion cub petting & captive wildlife interactions: what tourists need to know

Dereck Joubert responds to a hunter on the economics of hunting

After being sent the following offer several times from professional hunter Ivan Carter, award-winning filmmaker, Dereck Joubert decides to reply.

Dear Ivan,

This economic case is intriguing and worth unpacking scientifically and politely. Your note has a blend of economics and ‘experience’ or emotion, and I will attempt to separate them.

1. We have done much of this list already. Most guests in eco-tourism camps go out each day and do what most hunters do, except, of course, the experience is different as they actually walk more than trophy hunters do and leave the wildlife intact.

During the period from 1995 to 2003, I took notes on trophy hunting in what was called Area 6 (Linyanti Selinda) in Botswana and between 90-95% of animals were shot from vehicles so very little walking and stalking was involved. This, of course, was illegal, but this discussion is about viability, not infringements.

2. The photographic tourist with a camera gets up close enough to take a decent image with a 300mm lens, which is about 30% closer than a hunter has to with a high-powered rifle and a telescopic sight.

3. It’s a misnomer that each buffalo costs US$3,000 to stalk. This makes a basic assumption error that once you photograph the buffalo, you cannot take another photograph of it, either that day, the next or ever again. An image taken and a bullet fired have two completely different outcomes. The argument presented also assumes that while the buffalo may live for another 15 years, no one else can visit, pay the fees or photograph the buffalo. Great Plains provides free cameras in most of its camps, and the resulting statistics are revealing: most people take about 1,000 images a day. With a burn rate (those that are not keepers) of 50%, that implies 500 photographic trophies per day per person or couple! It is not fair to equate one photograph to one bullet. One bullet ends the potential. I would argue that each photograph gets taken back to the visitor’s circle of friends and serves as a brochure for more travellers to visit that same buffalo. One bullet? End of that cycle.

We once did a survey in Savuti in Botswana and calculated the value of a male lion dead (as a trophy) versus its value as an eco-tourism asset. It is complicated, but its value dead was US$15,000 then, whereas its value alive was around US$2,000,000. This is because of that basic oversight in your argument: a photographed lion yawns at the dawn repeatedly for photographs for over 10 years, attracting fees and lodging costs and also, importantly, distributing value down the chain to airlines, wages, curios, communities and food purchases (none of which were actually included in the US$2M calculation). However, one bullet ends those yawns in the sunrise forever for that lion.

Today you can hunt a lion for about US$23,000 for a male and, shockingly, just US$9,000 for a lioness! Who wants to shoot a lioness, by the way? A rare white lion will set you back about US$30,000. Who wants to shoot a rare white lion and end its life? I could run the numbers again in today’s terms, and we would find a proportionate increase in its value to be kept alive and wild.

4 An average stay at a place in Botswana, like the Zarafa Dhow Suite or Mombo, will cost you US$2,500 per day per person. In contrast, the average lodging fees for most hunting companies (I researched about 40) are around US$350-$450 per person.

5. Another miscalculation is in the sum that goes to the government. According to three sources, this is less than 5% of the price paid for the trophy, rather than your calculation of a third. And one of these sources was a government of Botswana study in 1999 and later a study by Animal Rights of Africa in 2008. Similar results are cropping up in IFAW and other NGO studies.

6. All of the Great Plains camps do actually give US$100 to communities as a conservancy or community fee, as do many others, so that is at least equal to your ‘offer’. However, most hunting concessions can only service 12-15 or so hunters a year. Even on a seven-day safari, that is, at best, 20 clients a year. So the average hunting operation produces US$15,000 in community fees in a five-month hunting season. From one camp like Mara Plains, at a 60% occupancy of 14 guests per night for 12 months, the community fee would be US$306,000. Even if we remove from this any anti-poaching contribution, which on a hunting concession calculation may be US$15,000 (per your note), a very liberal comparison would work out as a net benefit to the community and conservation of US$30,000 for hunting versus US$300,000 for a photographic trip.

7. Keeping the animals alive is clearly more viable but also increases exponentially if you consider the addition of their offspring to the ecosystem. In the case of lions, each male lion would add a further US$2M every time a cub survives to adulthood, and lions have an average output of about six cubs in their lifetimes.

8. The entire safari cost of US$20,000-$25,000 you quote equates to a ten-day photographic safari with Great Plains. That excludes flights and tips etc. However, I see that if two people are on a hunt, the fee goes down by about 33% for the second person, so a trophy hunt for two people would be about 15% less than an average photographic safari. Hence photographic safaris, in some cases, already exceed the prices achieved from hunting.

9. So yes, converting that land to non-hunting ground would probably make more money, especially if your business model, which now aims at 15 people, could be increased to 100 as per your request.

10. To summarise, it is impossible to win any economic argument for hunting, so it comes down to an emotional one. Ironically, the hunting representatives urge everyone not to get emotional about the subject, yet hunters come to Africa to get the (emotional) thrill of killing. Anyone who says it is for conservation can simply write a cheque to any great NGOs saving wildlife today.

The argument for hunting gets thinner each time it is tested. Ultimately, it may be reduced to some small game farms in South Africa, but it should certainly not exist in the wild.

Dereck

‘Extinct’ plant discovered on Lion’s Head

Cape granite flax was considered extinct, and the only evidence of its existence was scans of herbarium sheets dating back to the 1830s. Gigi Laidler was told to go and find one. In the wild. No pressure, then.

Gigi Laidler, a staff member at CREW, has this to say about the project, “One of the first things I learnt when I joined the CREW team is that ‘special’ doesn’t always mean big or showy when it comes to threatened species. There is much reward to be found in the small and seemingly uninteresting plants.

On my very first outing with the team, I was instructed to seek and find Granite Cape Flax Polycarena silenoides – a tall order for a small plant found only on Lion’s Head granites and presumed to be extinct. The only visual material I had to work with were scans of herbarium sheets dating back to the 1830s and descriptions gleaned from sources like Cape Plants and other Cape Floras. According to the Red List website, the status is Critically Endangered, possibly extinct and “Known from the slopes of Lion’s Head – three collections were made before 1940. We suspect this species may be extinct due to alien grass invasions and incorrect fire management.”

Of course, we didn’t find our plant on our first search in October, but undaunted, if I subsequently heard of anyone going anywhere near Signal Hill/Lion’s Head, I beseeched them to look out for a small plant in granitic areas.

Then one Sunday, I set off in search of this elusive target on a mild, overcast morning, with the odd hint of impending bad weather threatening to disrupt our botanising fun. Eventually, we reached our main target area on the lower road on the western side below Lion’s Head, where the granites start. We split the group with those feeling nimble and fleet-of-foot exploring the more bouldery section while the more “cautious” of us would simply scramble our way up the steep slope to the path, where we would rendezvous before returning to our vehicles.

I opted for the more direct scramble up the slope, and I didn’t get very far when an insignificant little weed-like plant about 8 or 9cm high caught my eye. Closer inspection confirmed all the “boxes” for the identifying features appeared to be “ticked”, – so I hazarded a guess that we had finally found our plant and proceeded to take many pictures. I will admit that the prospect of rediscovering a presumed extinct species is exhilarating, so Sunday night was a bit restless for me!

Cape Granite flax — Granite Cape Flax *Polycarena silenoides* © Gigi Laidler

On Monday morning, my find was indeed confirmed as being the long-lost Polycarena silenoides – a little plant that can be easily overlooked and dismissed as being something common. Granite Cape flax, as it is commonly known, was probably obscured by mature vegetation on previous searches, and we are fortunate that after the fire, it is now visible in the burnt area, where there is not too much competition from other larger plants.

This population of Polycarena silenoides will now need to be more fully assessed and monitored so that its Red List status can be revised, and more can be learnt about its life form and responses to fire and other threats.

It is encouraging to know that perseverance pays off, and small can be exciting too. So let’s keep looking for those elusive threatened plants, and who knows how many other long-lost species are waiting to be rediscovered.”

The Cape Floristic Region Custodians of Rare and Endangered Wildflowers (CREW) team is a citizen science programme that uses volunteers passionate about plants, many of which are also members of the Botanical Society of South Africa. CREW data feeds into IUCN Red Listing data with the SANBI Threatened Species Programme and is a way for the general public to make a meaningful contribution to conserving our unique natural heritage. This is plant conservation in action.

The hidden struggle of South Africa’s freshwater fish

A hundred years ago, our fynbos rivers pulsed with fish life: glowing redfins swarmed among the cobbles, speckled galaxias suspended weightless in the bubble line, and a pack of mottled kurpers lurked silently in the shadows. Wiley eels grinned in their cavernous lairs as night set in and their hunt began. Large cyprinids, like the Clanwilliam sandfish, migrate great distances upstream to their rocky spawning grounds as the winter floods subside. But sadly, those days are now long gone.

Breede River redfins swarming among cobbles

Low-lying reaches have been degraded by human activities like agriculture, and fish populations have been decimated by predatory alien fish. Today our fynbos rivers are largely devoid of native fish species – a depressing realisation given that most of these species occur nowhere else on the planet. Our sensitive fynbos fishes are backed into a corner like a wounded boxer. They have retracted deep into isolated mountain tributaries, now their last outposts within vast networks of uninhabitable riverscapes.

Smallmouth bass have eaten their way through our fragile native fish populations.

Nearly all of these species have made their way into the pages of the IUCN’s red list, and some are now so rare and isolated that they are literally swimming on the edge of extinction. Again, a depressing prospect, but there may yet be light at the end of this dark tunnel.

The author surveying fish populations in a mountain tributary. © Steve Benjamin — The author surveying fish populations in a mountain tributary © Steve Benjamin

In 2012/13, an ambitious conservation project conducted in the Rondegat River in the Cederberg demonstrated, under the disapproving eyes of its many sceptics, that sections of rivers can be rehabilitated and cleansed of alien fish. The project was spearheaded by the local conservation authority CapeNature, and monitoring by the South African Institute for Aquatic Biodiversity (SAIAB) revealed rapid recolonisation by native fishes and aquatic invertebrates from upstream following alien fish eradication. The project showed that a chemical called rotenone can eliminate alien fish without detrimental long-term effects on the rest of the river ecosystem and thereby give our native species back some room to survive – an aquatic miracle if ever there was one!

Feeding marks on a rock indicate the presence of Clanwilliam sandfish in a Cedarberg stream. © Riaan van der Walt — Feeding marks on a rock indicate the presence of Clanwilliam sandfish in a Cedarberg stream © Riaan van der Walt

Unfortunately, though, this solution doesn’t come cheap. This project, which successfully eradicated alien bass from four kilometres of stream and rehabilitated riparian habitat, cost more than ZAR4 million. While several species desperately need this type of intervention, future projects will rest on our ability to acquire the necessary funds – a tough challenge when working to save small, shy aquatic creatures that fall outside of the conservation spotlight.

A tiny galaxias in need of a helping hand. © Alexia Webster — A tiny galaxias in need of a helping hand © Alexia Webster

With my new film, Fins in the Fynbos, I hope to raise the profile of these unique but globally threatened fish, highlight their struggles and offer a way to invest in their future by supporting very much-needed conservation interventions:

Baobab and quiver trees – reaching for the stars

“Our relationship with the wild has always been important in my work. This series on starlit baobab and quiver trees was inspired by two fascinating scientific studies that connect tree growth with celestial movement and astral cycles. Most locations were truly wild and remote – far from civilisation and light pollution – in Botswana, Namibia and South Africa. Mighty and eccentric baobab and surreal quiver trees are featured in my work, each titled after constellations named by the ancient Greeks and Romans.” Beth Moon

“LYRA”

“CORVUS”

“ANDROMEDA”

“POLARIS”

“ARA”

“IZAR”

“HERCULES”

“VELA”

“OCTANS”

ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHER

The American-born photographer BETH MOON has gained international recognition for her large-scale, richly-toned platinum prints. Since 1999, Moon’s work has appeared in more than sixty solo and group exhibitions in the United States, Italy, England, France, Israel, Brazil, Dubai, Malaysia and Singapore, receiving widespread critical praise. Her prints are held in numerous public and private collections, and in 2013, the first monograph of her work, Between Earth and Sky, was published by Charta Art Books of Milan. In 2014, Abbeville Press published Ancient Trees: Portraits of Time, with a third book to follow in 2015 from German publisher Galerie Vevais titled La Langue Verte. Beth’s work can be seen at www.bethmoon.com
Her book Ancient Trees: Portraits of Time is available from the publisher Abbeville Press or Amazon.

Lion cub petting – but first, let me take a selfie!

As I apprehensively shuffled into the caged box, my stomach clenched, and my heart stopped. I immediately knew I was in a bad place and desperately wanted to run straight back out.

But something told me to carry on; something told me that by enduring the next hour in this awful place, I could hope to make a positive change to the hell that I currently found myself encased in. And that’s when I decided that I should try my absolute hardest to turn my experience into a huge positive. And that’s when I came up with this experiment.

I spammed this lion cub petting photo the following day across my social media platforms. Within minutes of uploading the image, likes and comments immediately began to pour in, as I predicted they would.

Everyone loves to see a cute lion cub gazing into the camera, heightened by the fact that he had his paw on my shoulder as I stared lovingly into his beautiful big eyes.

However, the truth of the lion cub petting industry is that one of the enclosures that I was taken into contained three lion cubs that, at merely three weeks old, had been taken away from their mother, who was in another enclosure far away. The cubs were given “lion milk formula”. The sad thing is that the guide answered absolutely every question I asked him without thinking anything was wrong. Knowing full well that everyone who pets these poor cubs in their enclosures is making them more accustomed to humans and losing their instinctual fear.

Sadly, many places in South Africa like this one claim to be good places for animals, which thousands of tourists believe. They make millions by attracting tourists from all over the world to see, hold and interact with ‘wild animals’. There are currently only about 2,000 lions left in the wild in South Africa, whilst there are as many as 7,000 currently in captivity.

While you may see a cute lion, happy to be involved in today’s selfie culture, this cub’s future is headed for the canned hunting industry. So if you dream about stroking, holding and taking your selfies with lions, know that you will contribute to a multi-million dollar lion cub petting industry that ends in a bullet lodged in this lion’s brain – to put it straight to you. Sorry.

If you are unfamiliar with the term ‘canned hunting’, let’s use the example of the lion in my selfie and call him Leo.

When Leo reaches an age when he is too big to cuddle, he will be taken on walks with tourists who pay big bucks for that ‘privilege’. When Leo turns two years old, he will be too big or dangerous to interact with people closely, although he is now very comfortable with the idea after interacting with hundreds every week.

Leo will then be left in an enclosure until he reaches his prime – to look his most impressive. When Leo is about six, a trophy hunter will travel to South Africa, after paying around US$38,000, to point his big man gun at Leo while accompanied by guides to protect the trophy hunter.

Meat will even be put out for Leo so that the hunter will know exactly where he will be. And as Leo has been around people since he was taken from his mother at two weeks old, he has no reason to fear the hunter.

Now that the bullet is lodged in Leo’s brain let’s take a selfie next to this trophy. What a brave ‘hunter’.

And while you may venture to these lion cub petting places and think that they are doing good for conservation due to the sheer volume of animals held in these places, know that these animals are suffering greatly – both physically from malnutrition and poor living conditions and mentally after being taken from their mothers at such a young age.

The horrors I saw included hyenas in cages with lions “to see if they will be friends.” I also experienced an attempted attack by an older tiger cub who I was told was “just playing” as his claws dug into me, hissing caracals being shoved into my arms, and three-week-old lion cubs with chunks of their fur missing.

Is this conservation? Is this right?

Whilst I strive to share my story far and wide to educate as many people as possible about the truth, I remain optimistic that there is hope for the future of our wildlife. With the release of the canned hunting exposé Blood Lions, I am filled with faith that as much as people are trying to harm our animals, more are trying to save them.

When I attended a talk by Blood Lions star Ian Michler in South Africa, I could feel the passion-driven fight in every person in the audience wanting to contribute to saving these majestic species. And that has only increased recently since Blood Lions was released in South Africa. With plans for screenings worldwide, the impact of this footage will surely unite the world in fighting against these awful lion prisons.

And whilst many see the death of Zimbabwe’s most famous lion as a heartbreaking truth of the occurrences of our modern society, I see it as a window of hope. To me, Cecil did not die in vain. His death has caused a stir in the world, and many are finally opening their eyes to the extent of the problem.

Blood Lions, together with the killing of Cecil, has sent the world into action, with airlines including British Airways, Virgin, Delta and many more, banning the transport of animal “trophies”, meaning that the estimated 15,000 American tourists who visit Africa every year on hunting safaris will struggle to return home with their “prize”.

People increasingly question the hunters’ statements that their actions are all for conservation. It costs an estimated US$26,000 for a lion conservation charity to continue their research, whilst a hunter will pay up to US$50,000 to kill one male lion. So if a trophy hunter told you they are helping conservation by shooting a lion, would you now believe them?

All I ask is that you share this message and my story so that our children can grow up knowing the beauty of the natural and rightful king of the jungle. We will not stop fighting!

Read more about the lion breeding industry in South Africa: Lion King or Commodity

Graphic content: Baby hippo killed by its pod

On an African safari, we see hippos lazing in the water with the tips of their ears and eyes poking out and the occasional spout of water as they take their next breath. But some of us working in the safari industry in Botswana discovered another side to these animals while on a weekend away in Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe. Written by: James Wilson and Tim Frayne

After an exceptional shortage of rain during the wet season, the heavens opened for two consecutive days in April. After waiting the whole morning for the downpour to subside, we realised that we were waiting in vain and decided to pack a lunch and set out for one of the many game-viewing hides strategically placed above a waterhole.

What transpired was a scene like no other – none of us had ever experienced such a thing.

As the rain continued to pour, it became apparent that a mother hippo (separated from the pod) was suckling her newborn calf. On closer inspection, we saw that the hippo calf was only a couple of days old and had not yet been introduced to the rest of the pod. Mother hippos usually isolate themselves from the pod to give birth and slowly introduce the calf when ready. Fortunately, we arrived when she revealed her calf to the pod – a special experience.

Slowly, the hippo mother exited the water to the waterhole’s edge. Almost instinctively, other pod members inquisitively made their way to the water’s edge. Three or four family members came out of the water and proceeded closer to the mother and calf. While the mother was protective of the calf, she did not try to keep the other hippos from coming too close as it wobbled precariously during its first steps on land.

For no apparent reason, the mother began backtracking and quietly returned to the water, while the other hippos that came to inspect the newcomer also backtracked to the water.

Something was about to go down.

A scene of complete chaos ensued that none of us expected after such a touching family moment. As if the incessant tapping of the raindrops on the tops of their heads had caused them to lose all sense of control, they attacked the mother. Three adults launched towards her and sent her fleeing for safety into the deeper water of the waterhole.

After this battle, the calf was left stranded on the other side while the hippos continued to target the mother. After about two minutes of the mother defending herself and the deafening grunts and groans of the fight, things began to settle down again.

Suspecting the hippo calf might be in trouble, we watched as a few adult hippos cornered the mother on one side of the waterhole while about seven hippos began moving in on the calf. We’ve seen dominant bulls attack younger male hippos that may threaten their dominance, but here both males and females seemed to have a collective plot to attack the calf.

Chaos ensued once more as they lunged for the helpless calf and flung it into the air. This set off the rest of the pod, and the scene turned to carnage, the small waterhole becoming a whirlpool of blood and drama. The mother watched helplessly as the entire pod attacked and slaughtered the calf. Each adult fought for an opportunity to attack the calf, pulling it from one side of the waterhole to the other.

Even the most seasoned guides felt a little traumatised by the sight of the baby hippo killed.

We’re not sure exactly what possessed the hippos to do this and how they did it. They may know the pressure on the pod every dry season as water dwindles in the waterholes. Perhaps this female had migrated from another region last season and wasn’t fully accepted by the pod.

The point is that this is the reality of life and death in the African bushveld. Like everything in nature, the carcass made for much-needed sustenance for the resident crocodiles, terrapins and fish. Although all a little startled by what we had just seen, we knew we had been fortunate enough to witness an incredible natural moment while on safari.

Watch: Hippo commits infanticide

CSI Bushveld – how did the python die?

During a recent trip to Madikwe Game Reserve, we were tracking lion spoor in the early morning light. The game ranger left the vehicle and followed the spoor that had veered off into the veld. He returned quickly with an excited glint in his eyes that had us all thinking: ‘Yes, lions!’ He informed us that he had not seen the lions but had found something else that was also, apparently, very interesting. The lions had led us to an enormous dead African rock python which was exceptionally fascinating to us as we flicked through pictures on his phone, but not interesting enough for the king of beasts as they had moved on.

Our ranger said we could see it for ourselves. I jumped at the opportunity – my 9-year-old son is mad about snakes, and a sighting like this would make me his heroin.

So, off we went to go and see the snake. When our group descended upon the snake, we fell silent out of respect and amazement for this five-metre-long legend of a snake. We slowly stepped closer to examine the dead python – there were no ants or insects on the snake and minimal signs of decay, so it couldn’t have been dead very long. So, why did it die?

The closer we got, the more we could smell a rotting stench coming from the snake’s middle, which was confusing as the corpse didn’t look old at all. There was fresh jackal spoor around the snake and pieces of flesh missing from the snake’s back where the jackal had begun to eat.

dead-african-rock-python-in-madikwe-corlette-wessels

By now, I was truly curious! I wanted to know what happened! This was turning into an episode of bushveld CSI. The ranger pointed out that horns had punctured the snake’s bulging side – whatever the snake had eaten, a small impala or steenbok. That was it; that was how a python this big had died!

My first wild python sighting blew me away: the snake’s size, its exquisite patterns, the colours – just breathtaking and what an unfortunate death, but such is nature.

On my return home, I decided to turn to Facebook for answers. Hopefully, a few reptile specialists would be able to explain what happened.

Johan Marais of African Snake Bite Institute thinks that the snake caught the antelope and was unable to digest it and was trying to regurgitate the meal then his horns punctured his body.

To me, this sounds like what could have happened. The smell was wafting directly from the middle of the snake’s bulging belly, not from the head or where the jackal had begun eating. So, that is probably how the African Rock python died.

Drones keep elephants safe in Tanzania

It happens in seconds. Tusks turn towards the sky, and the 5-ton elephant stops, scuttles backwards, flaps its ears, turns around… and runs in the opposite direction. The reason? Drones. Written by: Christina Goldbaum

“People think the drones work because they sound like bees,” says conservation biologist David Olson, noting that bees are a nuisance to elephants. “And the drones are like the mother of all Tsetse flies.”

Olson and his team at the conservation organisation RESOLVE and the Tanzania Wildlife Research Institute have been experimenting with the ability of small drones to herd elephants out of farms and into protected areas in Tanzania. The goal is to reduce human-elephant conflict (HEC), the decade-old struggle between farmers trying to grow crops and elephants scavenging for a meal. Unable to effectively discourage the elephants, farmers have begun resorting to extreme measures, including killing the animals with poisoned watermelons and arrows to save their crops.

The project is being tested this month in Tarangire National Park as crops are harvested and the height of elephant raiding season begins. Community scouts patrol the surrounding farms each night, calling in rangers armed with drones when they spot an elephant crossing into farmland.

And so far, the test results are clear: drones work.

“Elephants react in thirty seconds, and it only takes four minutes or less to chase the elephant off the farm,” says RESOLVE’s Jonathan Konuche, who has helped to train rangers to use drones. “And the rangers are in their vehicle at a safe distance.”

Before using drones, rangers flashed lights, made loud noises, and threw firecrackers wrapped in chilli – a substance elephants hate – to chase the animals out of farms, but the process was time-consuming and often ineffective.

When the possibility of using the aerial machines emerged, the team imagined attaching small sacks of chilli powder to the drones’ bellies, flying them over stubborn bulls, and shaking the drones to disperse chilli powder over the elephants – what they dub “chilli clouds.” But after initial tests, rangers realised that using chilli would present more problems than solutions.

“We’ve had a lot of chilli in the eye,” Konuche laughs. “But the rangers are tough.”

Chilli accidents aren’t the project’s only challenge, though. The drones are expensive (roughly US$1,100 per drone), their batteries last only twenty minutes, and their durability in tough field conditions is still uncertain.

“We can’t afford to buy six new drones yearly,” says Olson. “They need to last two to three seasons.”

Olson still hopes to scale the programme in Tanzania, where the elephant population has plummeted by 60% in the last five years, according to a new report from the Tanzanian National Parks Authority.

“We’re losing elephants fast,” Olson says. “We think these drones have a good use wherever elephants are.”

Professional hunters’ association president calls for a review of lion hunting

Hermann Meyeridricks, president of the Professional Hunters’ Association of South Africa (PHASA), is asking the hunting association to reconsider its position on lion hunting. This comes after Meyeridricks and the CEO of PHASA, Adri Kitzhoff, attended a screening of Blood Lions, a new film exposing the brutal practices of the captive breeding and canned hunting industries.

In a letter emailed to PHASA members dated 24 July 2015, Meyeridricks says that the campaign against trophy hunting has intensified around the canned or captive-bred lion hunting issue since its current policy on lion hunting was adopted at its AGM in November 2013.

“We took the view that our position was a stepping-stone to clean up the captive-bred lion hunting industry and made it clear that it was certainly not our final word on the hunting of lions,” he says.

“From my dealings with the media and the community, it has become clear to me that those against the hunting of lions bred in captivity are no longer just a small if vociferous group of animal-rights activists. Broader society is no longer neutral on this question and the tide of public opinion is turning strongly against this form of hunting, however it is termed. Even within our own ranks, as well as in the hunting fraternity as a whole, respected voices are speaking out publicly against it.”

Meyeridricks says that with some airlines and shipping lines refusing to transport hunting trophies, PHASA has to face the fact that the lion issue is putting at risk the reputation of professional hunting in South Africa and its very survival.

“PHASA’s current policy on the issue is, broadly speaking, that it recognises the legality of and demand for captive-bred lion hunting, and is working with the predator breeders and government to improve its standards and conditions to a generally acceptable level. We have made little demonstrable progress on this front,” he says.

“Against this background, I have come to believe that, as it stands, our position on lion hunting is no longer tenable. The matter will be on the agenda again for our next annual general meeting and I appeal to you to give it your serious consideration, so that together we can deliver a policy that is defensible in the court of public opinion,” he says in the letter.

Read an interview with the Blood Lions filmmakers

Snakebite!

Panic

People panic in the event of a snakebite. The victim panics – so much so that he or she may get nauseous and start vomiting; those in attendance panic and make poor decisions as to applying first aid and assisting the victim; even doctors panic when faced with an emergency – several have called me, desperate for advice. So, when young Crawford Coulson walked into my office one Saturday morning in the Valley of a Thousand Hills (near Durban, South Africa) with a terrified look on his face and said, “A black mamba has just bitten me,” I knew I had to think fast.

I did not doubt that Crawford knew what he was talking about – he was the snake park curator at Assagai Safari Park, a crocodile and snake park in the Valley of a Thousand Hills. Although it may take 3 – 16 hours for mamba venom to kill an adult, there are many cases where the victim has died within an hour.

“I have just been bitten by a black mamba”

We were about a thirty-minute drive from Addington Hospital in Durban, and Crawford clearly had a severe bite – the snake bit him on the back of the calf, and its fangs got stuck for several seconds. Within minutes Crawford complained that his lips were going numb. I got him into a vehicle and ran to the restaurant for help, but it was chaotic with tourists that had just emerged from two luxury buses. I drove to the owner’s house about 100 meters up the driveway, but it was empty – they had all gone shopping.

I sped off for Addington Hospital with the little BMW drifting from side to side as I took the corners on the highway. After fifteen minutes, Crawford was going downhill fast. He was sweating profusely, finding it difficult to keep his head up, and his speech was intermittent and slurred. I contemplated stopping at the closer Westville Hospital but knew they did not have a trauma unit, and I was not sure whether doctors would be available to deal with a snakebite emergency. I resolved to head for Addington, the main snakebite hospital in Durban at the time. The road was busy, as it is most Saturday mornings; I had my emergency lights on, and I was hooting to usher vehicles out of the way. As I entered Durban off the Western freeway, I blew the fuse on the hooter and had to worm through the traffic.

Crawford survived the bite without antivenom

As I pulled into Addington, Crawford was slipping into unconsciousness, and he was rushed into I.C.U. There was chaos and panic as they had no antivenom. But eleven hours later, after excellent hospital care, Crawford was out of danger, and he returned to work within a few days.

Miraculously, by being placed on a ventilator, Crawford survived the bite without antivenom.

The major effect of neurotoxic envenomation is that the venom paralysis the chest muscles and the victim stops breathing. But if the patient is properly ventilated, he or she may survive the bite without antivenom as the body eventually breaks down the venom – I stress, may survive; this is risky and does not always work.

Mamba bites are few and far between in South Africa, and in most years we hear of just a dozen bites or so. This deadly snake with its fearsome reputation and supposedly aggressive nature is far from the deadly attacker that people imagine; the black mamba is in fact a very shy and elusive snake that is quick to escape when disturbed. But if cornered or threatened without hope for escape, it will bite and may even deliver multiple bites.

In Crawford’s case, the snake was coiled up in the morning sun and fast asleep when he accidentally stepped onto it. About two weeks later I caught a 2.5metre black mamba a few paces from where Crawford was bitten.

In Southern Africa, snakebite is a reality that many people have to deal with. There are over 170 different types of snakes in the region and of them, about 20 are potentially deadly. In the region of 7,000 snakebites are recorded annually, with close on 50 fatalities.

The main snakebite culprits

Cytotoxic venom

The vast majority of snakebites are inflicted by snakes with cytotoxic venom. Cytotoxic venom, though extremely destructive to tissue, seldom causes fatalities, and most victims recover quite quickly, although some require multiple operations to counter the devastating effects of the destructive venom on body tissue.

The most common snakes responsible for bites are:

Other snakes with predominantly cytotoxic venom include:

Symptoms include:
– severe pain.
– excessive swelling.
– in many cases, blisters followed by necrosis (death of body tissue).

Neurotoxic venom
The two snakes that cause the most fatal bites are the black mamba and the Cape cobra. Their venom is potently neurotoxic and fast-acting.

Symptoms include:
– Nausea.
– Slurred speech.
– Ptosis (drooping or falling of the upper or lower eyelid).
– Progressive weakness.
– Eventual paralysis of chest muscles causes difficulty in breathing and death. In severe cases, victims struggle to breathe within 20 minutes, but in untreated cases, death could take about 4 – 16 hours.

Haemotoxic venom
Two of Southern Africa’s snakes, the boomslang and the twig or vine snake, have haemotoxic venom, affecting the blood clotting mechanism. Fortunately, both these snakes are placid and seldom bite unless captured or accidentally stepped on. One or two boomslang bites are reported yearly, and virtually all twig snake victims are snake handlers.

Symptoms include:
– Victims may experience no symptoms for several hours after a bite, but eventually, blood starts oozing from the fang punctures.
– This is followed by a bleeding nose, bleeding from the mucous membrane and eventually massive internal haemorrhaging. This could take a day or two and, in untreated cases, a slow and painful death.

Preventing snakebite

Most snakebites occur during warm wet summer nights from January to March/April.
Should you encounter any snake, back off and move away. Five metres or more from any snake is a safe distance, and it is a myth that snakes chase after people. Even the deadly black mamba never chases people and avoids confrontations unless cornered. It is not an aggressive snake and seldom accounts for bites.

– Wear adequate boots when in the field.
– Never handle any snake, regardless of size (some snakes play dead).
– Use a torch when walking at night.
– Keep your tent zipped closed at all times when camping.

In the event of a snakebite

In the event of a snakebite, it is best to keep the victim calm and rapidly, but safely, transport them to the closest hospital with a trauma unit.

Do not do any of the following:
– Never cut or try to suck the venom out. It does not work, and you will do more damage than good.
– Never apply a tourniquet. Arterial tourniquets do not slow the rate at which venom is absorbed and often do far more damage than good.
– Do not apply ice or heat; never give the victim alcohol.
– Forget about traditional remedies, including Condy’s crystals and charcoal – no traditional remedies help for snakebite.
– Never inject antivenom, cortisone or antihistamine. Antivenom is highly effective when required and must be administered by a medical doctor in a hospital environment. Many people are allergic to antivenom (it is made from horse blood), which may result in anaphylaxis in severe cases. This critical medical condition will require urgent medical intervention by a doctor.

The biggest danger is a neurotoxic bite that affects breathing

The first aid options for snakebites are limited, and victims must be transported to a hospital urgently. The biggest danger is a neurotoxic bite that affects breathing. If you are several hours from a hospital and have pressure bandages (crepe bandages), and you are quite sure it was a mamba or cobra bite, you can apply the pressure bandages around the limb from the bite towards the heart as tight as you would for a sprained ankle. This puts pressure on the lymphatic system and may delay the rate at which venom is spread through the body. But the pressure bandage should not be used for cytotoxic venoms with a lot of swelling.

Otherwise, one can assist-breathe the patient or resort to C.P.R., but that is seldom effective for more than 15-20 minutes. Never attempt mouth-to-mouth resuscitation without a face mask – you do not want to swallow someone else’s bodily fluids. The most effective form of first aid in serious bites from snakes with neurotoxic venom is using a bag valve mask (BVM) which could be life-saving. But one would need some training in using a BVM – something worth considering if you are far away from medical help or often venture into the bush.

The African Snakebite Institute provides a variety of snake awareness and first aid for snakebite courses. More details on snakebite are available in the book Snakes and Snakebite in Southern Africa and the downloadable app: Snakebite First Aid Africa.

About the author

Johan Marais has devoted most of his life to his favourite hobby – reptiles. He grew up in Durban, where he encountered common reptiles regularly. In his early twenties, he worked at the Fitzsimons Snake Park in Durban and then moved up to the Transvaal Snake Park in Halfway House where he worked as curator for three years followed by about six years farming crocodiles. During this time, he was an active member of the Crocodile Specialist Group of the International Union for Conservation of Nature.

Over the years Johan has conducted numerous reptile field trips with friends and scientists either in search of specific reptiles or conducting reptile surveys. Today he spends most of his time lecturing on reptiles, training people to handle snakes safely, conducting field trips, photographing reptiles and talking on the corporate circuit.

African Parks to manage two more conservation areas in Malawi

African Parks is pleased to announce that it has agreed with the Government of Malawi to manage and operate Liwonde National Park and Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve for 20 years. The agreement follows an application and evaluation process administered by the Public-Private Partnership Commission in which African Parks emerged as the preferred partner to manage the two protected areas.

Elephants on the Shire River in Liwonde National Park © Central African Wilderness Safaris/ African Parks

Liwonde National Park, located in southern Malawi, is 548m² and consists of woodland, floodplains, grasslands, and lagoon. It supports the largest remaining population of elephants in the country as well as one of two populations of black rhino. Other mammal species include hippo, hyena, buffalo, warthog, several antelope species and more than 400 bird species. Lions were once commonplace, and the healthy populations of other large mammals will allow for the quick reintroduction of predators.

Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve, located in the central region of Malawi, is 1,800 km², lying within the miombo woodland zone. It is a major catchment area for Lake Malawi. Although a depleted park, it still has remnant populations of elephant, warthog, baboon, and various antelope species, as well as 280 bird species. Well managed, it has the potential to become an important area for elephant conservation in Malawi. Black rhinos, lions, cheetahs and wild dogs once existed here but are now all locally extinct.

“We are excited about the mandate granted to us by the Ministry Of Information, Tourism and Culture and are encouraged about the potential of both projects,” said Peter Fearnhead, African Parks CEO. “We aim to restore the biodiversity in both Liwonde and Nkhotakota completely, enhance the tourism product and experience, reduce the extensive human-wildlife conflict, ensure the sustainable use of natural resources and contribute to the socio-economic development of local communities living around the two areas. This will be achieved through a US$18m investment in the two parks over five years, made possible by a few key partners of African Parks”.

African Parks is a non-profit organisation that takes on total responsibility for the rehabilitation and long-term management of national parks and protected areas in partnership with governments and local communities. With the addition of the Liwonde and Nkhotakota tour portfolio, they now manage three parks in Malawi, including Majete Wilderness Reserve.

DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.

Pousargues’s mongoose rediscovered after 20 years

With only 31 museum specimens and a handful of possible sightings over the last twenty years, the Pousargues’s or savanna mongoose (Dologale dybowskii) is one of the least known carnivores in the world. But now we can learn more about them. Written by: Thierry Aebischer & Raffael Hickisch

During our fieldwork between 2011 to 2015 in the southeastern part of the Central African Republic, we discovered a population of this forgotten dwarf mongoose in the Chinko Project Area, a conservation zone recently founded and now part of the African Parks network.

Before we started the first expedition, almost nothing was known about the wildlife in the eastern Central African Republic. We now have a better understanding of this small carnivore and its social structures thanks to direct field observations and strategically placed camera traps installed around termite mounds occupied by Pousargues’ mongoose. Astonishingly, the Pousargues’s mongoose shares its jungle home with eight different species of mongoose.

Observations from the Chinko show that Pousargues’s mongoose lives in small groups ranging from three to 12 individuals, which regularly move between their favourite termite mounds. Breeding has been observed taking place in mid-May during the early rainy season. A small group of three adults have been observed caring for an infant, carrying it around in their mouths. A first genetic survey based on collected scat samples shows the Pousargues’s mongoose being a close relative of the forest-dwelling Kusimanse crossarchus.

Based on more than 1,500km of walked transects, over 14,500 camera traps, days spent in more than 400 different locations and countless hours of field observations, Pousargues’ Mongoose seem to occur in much lower densities than most other mongoose in the Chinko Project Area. Habitat preferences and their ecological recommendations are still largely unknown, so further studies are needed. The vegetation is relatively pristine in eastern CAR, South Sudan and northern DRC due to less human interference in these areas. As such, it can be assumed that the habitat of Pousargues’s mongoose is still available at scale.

Poaching and overgrazing seriously threaten animals like lions, elephants, wild dogs and possibly this little mongoose in the Central African Republic. Therefore, managing large-scale reserves like the Chinko Project Area is important to secure a functional ecosystem and the long-term survival of a diverse wildlife community, including nondescript dwarfs like the Pousargues’s mongoose.

Blood Lions – a film exposing the brutal exploitation of the king of beasts

Many tourists are lured to South Africa with the prospect of petting a lion cub or walking with young lions. Some come as “volunteers”, paying to stay at lion breeding facilities where they hand-rear cute cubs. All are sold the lie that their money and help go towards increasing lion numbers and conserving the species. These are ‘blood lions’.

The truth is that most of these lions are bred for the bullet, with over 800 captive-bred lions being killed annually by trophy hunters. Due for release at the Durban International Film Festival on 22 July, Blood Lions is set to expose this bloody and brutal industry.

Every single day in South Africa at least two to three captive bred or tame lions are being killed in canned hunts.

There are about 200 farms and breeding facilities holding as many as 7,000 lions in captivity today – about three times the number of wild lions in legitimate conservation areas. Breeding farms supply hunting operators with adult lions to be shot in confined areas. This makes it difficult for the lions to evade hunters, and easier for hunters to locate and kill them. Canned or captive hunting has opened up an entirely new market for people that would otherwise not have been able to afford a wild hunt, and business is booming.

The film follows longtime wildlife campaigner Ian Michler on his quest to uncover the truth behind these breeding facilities and the canned hunting industry. Opponents to predator breeding and canned hunting have been calling for an end to these practices for almost 20 years, but with little lasting success as both practices continue to grow.

“The Blood Lions team believes the film will provide the campaign with a significant boost,” says Michler. “Powerful footage and a compelling narrative from a number of world-renowned conservationists and welfare experts will leave viewers in little doubt as to what is taking place on many private farms across South Africa. Other than greed and ego, there are no reasons to be breeding lions in captivity to be killed in captivity. We believe the film can be a global tool for meaningful change.”

Filming undercover

One of the greatest challenges for Michler and filmmaker Nick Chevallier was gaining access to and filming on breeding and hunting farms that are not open to scrutiny. “Many of the operators, which includes the hunters as well as the cub-petting and other farms, are hostile to any inquisitive questioning because they do not want the fraud exposed,” says Michler.

“Investigative filming techniques became critical to telling this story and to the journalistic process,” explains Chevallier who has been involved with wildlife documentaries for most of his long career. ‘This documentary was different in that the story unravelled over a couple of years. We knew it was going to be a difficult project in view of the secrecy and sensitivity of the topic. Getting access to places was a big challenge, as was trying to film and capture sequences without revealing too much of what we were doing. In the field, it was also emotionally challenging for me, particularly on the breeding farms, and later when viewing footage.”

There is no doubt that the revealing and graphic nature of the film will affect animal lovers and wildlife campaigners alike, potentially motivating them to action. But one of the key questions is if it will motivate trophy hunters and hunting organizations.

blood lions — Tourists pay to pet lion cubs that are being bred for the bullet. ©Ian Michler

Breeding lions have no real conservation or educational purpose

“Given that breeding and canned hunting of lions serves no real conservation or educational purpose, and that the ethics and sportsmanship of the behaviour are seriously questionable, you would have thought that any self-respecting hunter would be completely on-sides in trying to have the practices stopped,” says Michler. “However, the mainstream bodies, PHASA (Professional Hunters Association of South Africa) included, have decided to side with the breeders and canned hunters as these practices provide easy trophies to a far greater market than traditional fair-chase hunting could ever do. Throw in all the other commercial activities such as cub-petting, trading and the volunteer tourist scam, and you have an industry that provides significant profit opportunities to their membership. So the lucrative financial spinoffs have trumped everything else.”

The breeding and hunting industries try to justify their activities on the grounds that they are making significant contributions to conservation, either financially or by protecting the species. But Michler says they can make no such claims and that it is detrimental to conservation. “The breeders and hunters do not work with any recognised conservation agencies or lion ecologists,” says Michler. ‘”y making the claims they do, the true conservation messages and priorities are being confused and vital funding is being directed away from where it is needed most.”

Asked about the ability of such documentaries to generate public awareness, Chevallier said, “Today there are a lot more well researched, investigative type stories out there focusing on cruelty issues and the viewer respects this opportunity of ‘lifting the lid’. As much as viewers worldwide love to watch beautiful natural history documentaries that show animal behaviour in wild settings, the world is changing fast, as are concepts like ‘wilderness’. The global human population explosion is obviously having a major impact on wildlife, as is the commoditisation of nature, and people are catching on to this. There’s more awareness and social media is playing a very big role.”

Hunters standing up against canned hunting

Thanks to this awareness there has been positive progress in the campaign to eradicate the exploitation of wildlife. Recently a number of international airlines banned the transport of animal parts, including hunting trophies, on their flights, and Australia has banned the import of hunting trophies. There is also progress in hunting circles. “There is a growing group of professional hunters here in South Africa that have stood up against the practices. They have taken on PHASA and are prepared to see a split in the body between the ethical and unethical hunters,” says Michler. “I do see opposition to breeding and canned hunting growing significantly across the world and hopefully many more hunting organisations will realise they are damaging their reputation if they continue to support canned hunting.”

A film set to provoke change

Blood Lions has already been accepted in some international film festivals and will be screened in parliaments around the globe, universities and schools, as well as to select audiences of decision-makers.

Chevallier considers himself fortunate to be able to influence some way “I really enjoy tackling nature-based, environmental stories where I can help support the “voiceless”.”

Michler says he sees the film as a significant step up in over 15 years of efforts for him. “The process is unfolding at a quicker rate. Throughout the Blood Lions film and the campaign, I have noticed two things”, he says. ‘One: opposition to hunting, in general, is growing, and, other than for those involved, it is almost universal when it comes to canned hunting. Two: The justifications have run out for the vested interests, especially those that make the killing or make money.”

Visit bloodlions.org to learn more and get involved.

Female elephant mistakenly shot by hunters

A hunter recently shot and killed a female elephant while trying to hunt a bull elephant at Mabalingwe Nature Reserve near Bela-Bela in Limpopo province. Written by: Sharon van Wyk

Controversy surrounds issuing the permit to hunt the bull and killing the apparently very docile cow. teamAG attempted to speak to the management at Mabalingwe and was referred to Hannes Wessels, who did not return telephone messages.

According to Mabalingwe shareholder Rob Preller, one of the owners, Hannes Wessels, approached Limpopo’s Department of Economic Development, Environment and Tourism (LEDET) for a permit to shoot the bull. The application was declined because Mabalingwe didn’t have an elephant management plan, a legal requirement for reserves with wild elephants.

Dr Yolande Pretorius of the University of Pretoria’s Centre for Wildlife Management was contracted to draw up the plan, and interim recommendations included the use of GnRH and putting the female elephants on a contraceptive programme. A bull elephant, without other competitive bulls around, stays in permanent musth, which is a state of sexual arousal. This makes it aggressive but the issue can be managed by administering a course of vaccines known as GnRH that lower testosterone levels.

“He apparently gave the bull the first round of GnRH, but it seems likely that he didn’t complete the course, and continued to be aggressive as a result,” said Dr Pretorius.

“At this stage, I brokered a deal to buy the bull and translocate it,” says Rob Preller, but added that Wessels refused the deal, preferring to shoot it.

Pretorius says Wessels pressured her to finish the elephant management plan by the end of June. “I became uneasy because I knew he wanted to get a permit to shoot the bull and couldn’t without the management plan,” she says. “After constant pressure from him – and the fact that he had ignored my recommendations to manage the bull properly – I withdrew my services without finishing the management plan.”

Investigations suggest that Wessels may have persuaded LEDET to issue a permit on the grounds that the bull was a ‘damage-causing animal’ (DCA). “If he did, I don’t know how,” says Preller, “because LEDET is supposed to investigate DCA claims before issuing permits, and no such investigation occurred. LEDET is also legally obliged to either put down the problem animal themselves or use a professional hunter, and a nature conservation officer must supervise the shooting. Instead, it appears Wessels ‘sold’ the permit to a local hunter.”

That’s when things went awfully wrong. A female elephant allegedly charged the vehicle carrying the hunter during the hunt and was shot instead. Wessels refused to comment on the incident, claiming it was ‘too controversial’.

The head of the Mabalingwe Common Property Association, Jan Zeederberg, was also unavailable for comment, as was Matie Barnard, manager of Mabalingwe’s agents, Waterberg Property Management. Kgmotoso Theko of LEDET’s Modimolle permit office was not taking calls, and the LEDET communications officer, Mboni Mushiana, has not responded.

With the hunting permit still valid, the bull’s future is uncertain, although sources at Mabalingwe suggest it has been postponed.

“We’ve got the solution to this problem in the form of the GnRH,” says Preller. “But it seems that Mabalingwe’s owners are more concerned with making money from its death than giving it a fair chance at life.”

Deeper into Durban

A vibey start to a “staycation”

To ease us into the “staycation” concept, our city safari adventure began at the vibey Unity Brasserie & Bar. Durban is known for being quiet on weeknights, and Unity proved that wrong by being packed at 6 pm on a rainy Tuesday night. We were treated to a local beer tasting courtesy of That Brewing Co., then dived into our new favourite brew “Beasts of the Deep”. To stave off any hangovers, we also tucked into outstanding veg burgers; their gourmet bunnies are the stuff of legends.

Our beer buzz on, we made a late check-in to our home for the next two nights. The Concierge Boutique Bungalows shares premises with the innovative Freedom Cafe, made of two bright red shipping containers. We did not expect to find the colourful art explosion that burst out of our room as we opened the door and loved the Daschund-inspired graphics and wine. Our room opened out onto our own partitioned patio garden, so we felt like we were in an exotic Henri Rousseau painting when our doors were open.

An old neighbourhood with a tasty new vibe

The next morning, after a good strong cup of coffee on our private patio, we arrived at what must be one of the regeneration cornerstones of the Glenwood neighbourhood – The Corner Café. Editorial note: Corner Cafe has subsequently closed. Founder Judd has become something of a Durban institution himself, building on his ethos of seasonal and locally grown produce served in the warm and homely atmosphere of the Café.

Tucked away in the depths of Glenwood is another local legend, 36o3, a cosy sibling-run restaurant that has built a reputation for some of the most vibrant and innovative food in Durban. We don’t usually seek out the chef to compliment them, but Andy felt he needed to hug Brett Gentles after the best meal we have ever eaten in Durban or South Africa.

One morning we were lucky enough to get a table at the always bustling Glenwood Bakery, surrounded by the aromas of freshly baked artisanal bread.

We often filled our faces in the tasty Glenwood neighbourhood before heading out for the day to see what Durban had to show us.

Having a ball in the
Valley of a Thousand Hills

A twenty-minute drive from Glenwood found us in the Valley of a Thousand Hills, surrounded by what looked like giant hamster balls. There are two types of balls, officially known as Groovy Balls – an Aqua Ball, aka “Washing Machine”, and a Harness Ball, aka “Tumble Dryer”. We both jumped inside the washing machine and linked arms to prevent head-on collisions. After throwing a bucket of warm water in with us, we were rolled down a hill for an intense 27-second churn in what felt like a giant slip ’n slide. This will definitely whet any adrenaline junkie’s appetite!

With every turn of the spiralling road, we delved into a Durban we knew nothing about

An incredible homemade lunch was had at Kloof’s famous Sprigs restaurant; then we headed deeper into the hills. Our next adventure was in the rural village of isiThumba, and with every turn of the spiralling road, we delved into a Durban we knew nothing about and felt the anticipation we usually get when arriving in exotic and far-flung places.

Our guide Nhlakanipho, from Durban Green Corridor, spent the afternoon with us in the village of his birth and proudly shared stories of the area and the people who live here. He explained that isiThumba means “kidnapping” and is named after the mountain above the valley. According to legend, after some local herdsmen disappeared, their chief, wanting to avoid a war with the neighbouring village suspected of killing the herdsmen, told the community that the mountain had kidnapped the men and that they should avoid that area at all costs. While the story may have passed into folklore, the name remains.

Feeling irie

Venturing into the heart of the Inanda Valley, the great people of Durban Green Corridor took us to one of Durban’s most unique attractions: the Rasta Caves. We were beneath a huge rock overhang after a long walk and steep ascent along the cliff face near the uMzinyathi Waterfall. The cave walls are decorated with paintings and Rasta scriptures. Until recently, a community of Rastafarians lived and worshipped here. While nosy tourists like ourselves have largely chased them off, we were fortunate enough to meet 17-year-old Shadow Shakes, who looks after the caves and lives there in solitude, worshipping Jah.

comp-77 — Clockwise: A cultural visit of a different kind – the Rasta Caves with Durban Green Corridor; Shadow Shakes who lives and worships in the caves; Andy enjoys an Ethiopian meal at Habesha in Glenwood. ©knotjustpics

Feeling irie and having spent some time in Ethiopia and fallen in love with their food, it was a delight to sit in the home of Habesha back in Glenwood that evening, where we relived the magical energy of Ethiopia and North African cuisine. A good shiro wot (spicy chickpea stew), injera (the spongy pancake-like accompaniment to all Ethiopian meals) and a cup of buna (strong, aromatic Ethiopian coffee) was the perfect way to end an exhausting yet enlightening day.

Walking on water for the best view of Durban

Being a terrible human before 10 am, the idea of Stand-Up-Paddle boarding at sunrise was something I (Szerdi) was dreading. Luckily we had the vibrant Charlotte from Xpressions and the flattest sea I have ever seen. After a quick lesson on the beach, we struck out for open water only to be dumped by an ankle-high wave; finally, I was awake and ready to see Durban from the sea.

After that wobbly start and a stance that resembled someone hovering over a port-a-loo, I finally got the feel of it and “SUPed” forth. Seeing the city’s beauty from such an unusual vantage point took my breath away.

While at the beach, one of the best ways for couples to explore Durban’s seafront promenade is on a tandem from Bike and Bean. Despite being the middle of winter, Durban weather is relatively warm, and locals keep in shape throughout the year, so we rode along with many other riders and runners. Once back at Bike and Bean, we recharged with muffins and coffee while taking in the unspoilt sea view.

The South Asia of South Africa

You can’t but love Durban’s South Asian influence, and the Bangladesh market tucked away in the suburb of Chatsworth is a must. Walking down the market aisles, you’re struck with sensory overload. There was so much to see, hear, smell and taste, and we ended up chatting with friendly stall owners and shoppers as we wandered through the vibrant market.

Down the road is the Hare Krishna temple. The Temple of Understanding, as it’s known, is hard to miss with its three gold-tipped towers. The temple’s restaurant is famous in Durban for its vegetarian meals. After spending a good deal of time sampling pretty much everything, we were lucky enough to be in time for a ceremony known as the Raj Bhoga-arati.

The burning of incense and rhythmic drumming brings devotees into the centre of the temple, where they await the unveiling of curtains that reveal statues of their gods, to which they sing while receiving a blessing. The chanting, drumming and burning incense that filled the great hall created a powerfully calming atmosphere.

One evening we found ourselves at one of Durban’s best-kept secrets, Palki. Tucked away in an old Berea house, this restaurant has served authentic Indian cuisine for eighteen years. It has become a favourite with Durban’s Indian community and a growing number of people keen to expand their culinary horizons. With our tummies full of spicy goodness, we ventured across the (Umgeni) River for our night at the luxurious Three Cities Auberge Hollandaise Guesthouse. Being regular travellers, our idea of luxury is our own toilet and hot water. Still, our room was almost half the size of our entire house, and we felt completely rejuvenated by the luxury of it all.

Downtown – Durban deep

Leaving the luxury behind, we headed for the vibrance of downtown Durban. As sheltered suburbanites, it’s embarrassing to admit that this is one area we have been dying to explore but lacked the nerve to do so. What’s strange is that everywhere else we travel, we are usually the first to seek out and explore the rougher areas, but home-based prejudices seem to be the hardest to break. We are so glad we finally did. Seeing this part of Durban really illustrates what a melting pot of African and international cultures Durban is, and engaging with the street life of our city was one of the turning points for turning our crush on this city into a fully-fledged love affair.

We ultimately met up with Stembiso and Jonas, owners of the energetic and bespoke Street Scene Tours, who took us on a passion-filled, shebeen hopping tour of the KwaMashu township. Ste’s passion for his hometown and his depth of historical knowledge saw us visiting the homes of Mahatma Gandhi and the Ohlange School, where Nelson Mandela cast his historic vote in the 1994 elections.
What made this tour so special was meeting people like Mandla, an IEC worker who was the first person to shake Mandela’s hand on the day of the election and whose story left us with goosebumps and tears, and the personal relationships Street Scene has built up with the community. After a few quarts at the shebeens, which certainly enhanced our passion for Durban, we ended our day and exploration of our city with a Durban classic: a beans bunny chow at the Britannia, Durban’s oldest hotel.

Durban moves up a notch on the “Go-to” list

In hindsight, we were naive to think that a staycation in our own city wouldn’t show us anything we didn’t already know. We’ve always had a lukewarm admiration for our city – the same fondness for that ugly but warm sweater you don’t wear anywhere else but home. But Durban proved us wrong. Now, when talking to other travellers, our “go-to” list of cool South African places won’t be limited to the safari icon of Kruger National Park and Cape Town – the Mother City; our Durban will have pride of place.

Find out about Africa’s epic safari destinations and our ready-made safari packages – or ask us to craft your ideal vacation.

About the authors

ANDY STENT AND SZERDI NAGY are a married photographic team intent on exploring and discovering as much of our incredible world as they can. Their passion for travel was sparked when they travelled to Nepal in 2010 and since then they have used their wedding photography business to fund their adventures. They love exploring Africa in their trusty Land Rover, Murray, and having the chance to meet and interact with people from all over the world. They also have a quest to find the most beautiful campsite on the planet.

Follow Andy and Szerdi on Instagram @wechooseadventure and @knotjustpics. See more of their incredible adventures on their website.

Wings over Namibia – an aerial safari

Rising hundreds of meters off the desert floor, the ancient Namib Nauklift National Park dunes in Namibia are unforgettable.
“After soaring high above the vast landscapes of Namibia, we feel blessed and privileged to be alive. We have seen landscapes that have left us breathless with their beauty, terrified at their expanse and lonely in their isolation. There is a certain stillness you find deep inside when viewing the wild open places of Namibia from above…… great herds of buffalo, a lone elephant bull on an endless plain, marching dunes, dancing flamingos, the swirling and meandering Kavango and crashing waves on empty desert shores. It has been a journey and an adventure – a true African safari.”
Photographer Jay Roode

A small family of Hartmann’s mountain zebras drink their fill at the aptly named Zebra watering hole late one afternoon in the Namibrand Nature Reserve.

Where the icy Atlantic kisses the sun burnt shores of the Sperrgebiet. Here Conception Bay shimmers an emerald green in the midday sun.

It is seldom that this desert feels soft rain falling on its shoulders. Here the pans of Sossusvlei are filled with water after an unusual rainy spell.

Find out about Sossusvlei in Namibia for your next African safari. Find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

Rock art – a cultural treasure of Ennedi

More than 100 rock art sites at the Ennedi Plateau in Chad have been identified, thanks to Rocco Rava, the park manager. African Parks, who manage Ennedi, has been evaluating the potential for Ennedi to be established as a wildlife and cultural protected area. These sites show thousands of paintings and engravings on cave and rock walls, some dating back 8,000 years.

In February, African Parks concluded a memorandum of understanding with the Chadian Government to assess the landscape, obtain an understanding of the people and pinpoint the challenges in establishing Ennedi as a protected area.

Located in northeast Chad, in the Sahara Desert, Ennedi is famous for its rock paintings, towering rock arches, and quivering, yellow sands. A portion of Ennedi falls within a proposed UNESCO World Heritage site.

Its rock art tells a story of the area before it was impacted by climate change, of the presence of elephants, giraffes, rhinos, cheetahs and ostrich. Paintings also vividly depict the lives of communities, as highlighted by hundreds of scenes featuring warriors, herdsmen with cattle and dancing women.

Left unprotected, this rich tapestry of the region’s archaeological history will continue to be eroded – through sandstorms, animal defecation, human contact with the art, and the pillaging of chunks of rock art to sell to tourists. It’s one of several reasons to restore and conserve this unique landscape.

Rock art is a cultural treasure in Ennedi that needs to be protected and preserved. African Parks expects to conclude its assessment of Ennedi by November 2016 and will shortly thereafter present its recommendations to the Chadian Government for their consideration in establishing Ennedi as a protected area.

Let’s take it back to the start

All about Kruger

Where to stay

When to visit

A bit of advice from the pros

Please don’t speed – show respect and give animals the space to move

What to bring

About the authors

A wildlife haven that represents raw Africa

What to see and how to see it

When to go

History of the cheetah

Modern decline

Threats to survival

Exotic pet trade

Strategies for survival

About the author

Criss-crossing borders

Exploring the Namib and its surrounds

Ancient rock art and desert-adapted wildlife

Reaching our oasis

Waiting games at waterholes in Etosha

The Caprivi Strip – where four rivers meet

Return to Cape Town

Where to stay

Where to eat

Tips and tricks

About the authors

ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHER

A successful conservation model that also offered tangible benefits to poverty-stricken communities

WHAT TO DO

WHERE TO STAY

BEST TIME TO VISIT

My top picks of what to do:

My top picks of where to stay:

My top picks of where to eat:

More about lemurs

More about Madagascar

About the photographer

Practical info

About the author

ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHER

Panic

“I have just been bitten by a black mamba”

Crawford survived the bite without antivenom

The main snakebite culprits

Preventing snakebite

In the event of a snakebite

The biggest danger is a neurotoxic bite that affects breathing

About the author

A vibey start to a “staycation”

An old neighbourhood with a tasty new vibe

Having a ball in the Valley of a Thousand Hills

With every turn of the spiralling road, we delved into a Durban we knew nothing about

Feeling irie

Walking on water for the best view of Durban

The South Asia of South Africa

Downtown – Durban deep

Durban moves up a notch on the “Go-to” list

About the authors

Having a ball in the
Valley of a Thousand Hills