Page 36 – Africa Geographic

All about the Kruger to Canyon Biosphere Region

Written by: Lindsey Jones

The World Network of Biosphere Reserves currently has 669 sites, including 16 trans-boundary sites, in 120 countries all over the world. South Africa is home to eight Biosphere Reserves, with the Kruger to Canyons Biosphere Region declared by UNESCO in 2001.

The Kruger to Canyon Biosphere Region, located on the western border of Kruger National Park, in the north-eastern part of South Africa, covers about 2.6 million hectares, encompassing both protected areas (conservation) and agricultural lands, as well as rural development, urban development, mining and forestry. It spreads across three major biomes; savannah woodlands, Afromontane forests and grasslands.

all about the kruger to canyon biosphere region — Keeping a watchful eye on rhinos ©Wynand Uys

Although this biosphere represents only 1.4% of South Africa’s total land surface, it contains nearly 75% of all terrestrial bird species, 80% of all raptor species, 72% of all mammals, 50% of all butterflies and 50% of all frog species found in South Africa. It is also home to seven endemic frogs and two endemic reptiles found only on Mariepskop – the Mariepskop dwarf chameleon and the Mariepskop flat gecko.

Famous tourism hotspots include Kruger National Park, God’s Window, Bourke’s Luck Potholes, Pilgrim’s Rest and the Blyde River Canyon. The Blyde River Canyon is the third largest canyon, as well as the greenest canyon in the world. In addition, the Kruger to Canyons Biosphere is home to the largest privately owned conservation area in the world.

Ballooning over Blyde River Canyon ©Wynand Uys

The biosphere reserve was established with the aim of bringing stakeholders in the area together for collective impact. The Kruger to Canyons landscape aims to promote and demonstrate a mutually supportive relationship between people and nature. This is done via a number of strategic objectives, including the implementation of socio-economic development initiatives to support sustainability and climate change adaptation, supporting institutions engaged in research, education and training, and partnering with government agencies to promote compliance to environmental laws and regulations.

A map of the Kruger to Canyons Biosphere Region

In partnership with Wildlands, a variety of NPO’s in the area are working on a Tree-preneur and Waste-preneur programme. The Tree-preneurs care for indigenous trees that are then bartered for food parcels. The Waste-preneur programme works on various recycling projects in the communities. Through the Working for Water Programme various teams of community members are also employed to remove alien vegetation and assist with issues of erosion. The trees, received from the Tree-preneurs, are then used to replant in areas where alien vegetation has been removed.

The beautiful landscape of the Kruger to Canyons area ©Wynand Uys

Another notable project, managed by the Kruger to Canyons Biosphere Region, implemented by the SANParks Biodiversity Social Programme, and funded by the Department of Environmental Affairs, sees over 260 environmental monitors hosted with various organisations throughout the Biosphere. One group focuses on educating communities on environmental issues, while another group focuses on security in protected areas and are divided into those that are armed and unarmed, most notably the all-women Black Mamba Anti-Poaching Unit in Balule Private Nature Reserve.

Members of the Black Mamba Anti-Poaching Unit

The project has had a significant impact not only on socio-economic status and skills development, but also on creating greater awareness of why conservation and environmental issues are so important in the rural communities adjacent to protected areas.

To learn more, watch the following video:

Read more about the Kruger to Canyons Biosphere Region and its programmes and partners on their website here.

Read more about Kruger to Canyons in this travel diary.

The legal racketeering of ivory

The history of the ivory trade since the colonial era paints a depressing picture about the fate of elephants. Between 1860 and 1920 roughly 33,000 tonnes of ivory were shipped from Africa to the British Empire – the equivalent of 1.1 million elephants.

Approximately 100,000 elephants were slaughtered per year in Africa from 1850 to 1929 to supply ivory to companies in the USA that manufactured piano keys and billiard balls from ivory. In 1916 Americans even hung a circus elephant called Mary who mauled her keeper to death. 13 years earlier Thomas Edison captured his highly publicised electrocution of an elephant on film.

The Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) is a multilateral treaty to protect endangered plants and animals. It was drafted as a result of a resolution adopted in 1963 at a meeting of members of the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN). The convention was opened for signature in 1973, and CITES entered into force on 1 July 1975. Its aim is to ensure that international trade in specimens of wild animals and plants does not threaten the survival of the species in the wild, and it accords varying degrees of protection to more than 35,000 species of plants and animals. CITES is an international agreement to which countries adhere voluntarily. There are currently 183 members.

The triennial Conference of the Parties (CoP) of CITES takes place in Johannesburg from 24 September to 5 October 2016. This will be the seventeenth time members will convene since CITES was established in 1975. All commercial international trade of ivory from elephants is presently prohibited under CITES.

It is estimated that there were about 5 million elephants in Africa at the turn of the 19th century. In 1979 there were approximately 1.3 million elephants in Africa and by 1989 the numbers declined to 600,000. The Great Elephant Census released its results in September 2016, proving that only 352,271 savannah elephants survive in sub-Saharan Africa. Forest elephant populations have crashed by 60% since 2002, now counting less than 60,000.

Since 1999, CITES approved two “one-off” sales of ivory. In 1999, 50 tonnes of ivory were sold to Japan for a meagre US$5 million. China’s inexcusable reputation as importers of illegal ivory prevented it from buying in the 1999 sale (all went to Japan), but China did participate in the 2008 sale after TRAFFIC representatives investigated and approved the so-called effectiveness of Chinese controlling mechanisms. This did not deter ivory smuggling to China. Between 2012 and 2014 over 41 tonnes of smuggled ivory were confiscated in China.

In 2008 Botswana, South Africa, Zimbabwe and Namibia were again allowed by CITES to complete once-off ivory sales, selling 108 tonnes of ivory at an average price of US$157 p/kg for only US$15.5 million. Records of how these funds were ploughed back into conservation are not available on the CITES website.

At the time, CITES issued a press release stating ” Elephant populations of the four countries are in Appendix II of CITES, which means that, even though they are not necessarily now threatened with extinction, the trade in their products is strictly regulated. Recent studies concluded that over 312,000 elephants live in these four countries and that their number has increased in recent years.” Earlier this year Namibia claimed to have over 20, 000 elephants. Adding the very recent results from The Great Elephant Census, these four Southern African countries today have about 261,000 elephants, which is a 16% decrease equal to 51,000 elephants (7,200 per year) since the 2008 sale.

The 2007 African agreement stipulates that no new proposals for further sales from the four countries concerned are to be considered by CITES during a resting period of nine years, commencing as soon as the new sales have been completed.

CITES, MIKE and ETIS

The Elephant Trade Information System (ETIS) is a comprehensive information system to track illegal trade in ivory and other elephant products. It aims to record and analyse levels of illegal trade. Monitoring these statistics started as far back as 1997. It has become a well-established and effective tool for monitoring illegal trade in elephant products.

The Monitoring of Illegal Killing of Elephants (MIKE) is another division of CITES (far more expensive than ETIS) that was created in 1997 to provide further reports and information to CITES at each meeting of the Conference of the Parties. MIKE assists in the dialogue between CITES members and facilitates the decision-making processes of CITES. It also provides elephant range states with data to assist with the management and enforcement decisions for the long-term management of their populations of elephants.

In her 2002 book Policing International Trade in Endangered Species: The CITES Treaty and Compliance, Rosalind Reeve mentions that the projected cost for the first six years of MIKE was conservatively US$13.4 million. MIKE faced criticism from several countries when India and Kenya commented that funding should rather be used for the prevention of elephant poaching than the establishment of expensive Rolls Royce programmes for monitoring elephant populations. Reeve comments: “..it is questionable whether the human and financial costs of ETIS and MIKE, all to satisfy the desire of a handful of parties to trade in one commodity from one species, can be justified, especially given the limited funds available to CITES. Elephants are the “flagship” species of CITES, spending such vast sums on verification and monitoring without attempting to raise equivalent funds for preventative anti-poaching measures detracts from crucial issues such as improving the capacity for enforcement of CITES at national level.”

The Context

In early September 2016, over 6,000 delegates attended the IUCN congress in Hawaii. More than 90% of members voted against all future domestic ivory sales by adopting Motion 007. Several countries voted against motion 007 namely Japan, South Africa, Thailand, Vietnam and Namibia. (South Africa and Namibia threatened to resign from the IUCN).

In 2015 the presidents of the USA and China undertook to impose a near total ban of ivory trade. Hong Kong has committed to phasing out the ivory trade over the next five years. However, South Africa, Namibia and Zimbabwe have submitted proposals to CITES to re-open discussions at CoP17 surrounding the Decision Making Mechanisms for the ivory trade.

On the opposing side, 29 African states formed the African Elephant Coalition and have submitted proposals to CITES for consideration at CoP17 to upgrade all African elephants to Appendix I (countered by South Africa, Namibia, Zimbabwe) and to agree to close all domestic ivory trade. The European Union, WWF and CITES are rejecting both these opposing proposals.

Ivory burns

Ivory destructions are a popular and contentious method for nations to publicly assert their opposition to the illegal wildlife trade. Since 1989 about 20 of these events have taken place all over the world. These countries have openly declared war on ivory smuggling and that wildlife crimes will not be tolerated. So far over 220 tonnes of ivory have been destroyed. WWF and TRAFFIC want the destruction of ivory to be monitored by rigorous documentation and audits to reduce the risk of leakage into the black market.

A third “once-off sale” and re-opening discussions of the ivory trade

Firstly, why even call it a once-off sale? The previous sales were supposed to flood the market. Since then, African elephants have reduced by 30%, or 144,000, with over 30,000 elephants being killed for their ivory every year.

South Africa’s stockpile of ivory is 65 tonnes. Assuming South Africa, Namibia and Zimbabwe collectively held as much as 200 tonnes, the stigma of buying ivory will restrict bidders to a few Asian buyers. Latest studies have shown that the price of ivory has dropped from US$2,100p/kg to US$1,100p/kg. Should an optimistic auction price of US$300 p/kg be achieved, the sale could gross about US$60 million, less the enormous costs associated with the auctions. Historically CITES is unable to control if funds from approved ivory sales are ploughed back into conservation efforts and not racketeered by the corruption so prevalent all over Africa.

Some individual philanthropists have single-handedly donated US$24 million to conservation in Africa. Funds raised from the ivory sales in 1999 and 2008 are infinitesimal if compared to the conservation finance funneled to the African continent. It is time to donate conditionally in return for guaranteed ivory destruction by those minority African nations determined to re-open the trade, regardless of the international condemnation and abhorrence evidenced at the IUCN conference in Hawaii, when more than 90% of members voted in favour of a domestic ban across all nations.

South Africa’s Department of Environmental Affairs has an approved budget of US$9 million to host the CoP17 of CITES in Johannesburg from 24 September to 5 October. Over 3,000 delegates from 183 member countries, NGOs and international media will attend. Costs of delegates’ flights, accommodation, salaries etc. will again amount to millions. Expenses at the recent IUCN congress would have been much more due to 6,000 delegates in attendance. Since the establishment of CITES, ivory trade has been discussed ad infinitum in boardrooms and conference halls around the world. Donor funding in lieu of ivory destruction will obviate the need for further onerous record keeping of tracking sales, certificates and inventories of legal sales versus parallel illegal markets, channeling these funds rather prudently into combatting wildlife crime.

Conclusion

Will the world witness another round of dubious, unkind and immoral decisions taken at Cop17? At this juncture of civilization, leaders need to grasp that geographic borders do not bestow ownership of sentient animals whose boundaries have been created by mankind. Besides the threat of habitat destruction caused by global warming, civil war, population explosions, hunting and poaching, the elephant cannot be hung in conference halls like yesteryear. Arguments by minority CITES members who want to trade ivory because elephants reside in their borders are ignorant of fiscal intelligence. Future generations will be dumbstruck when studying history that illustrates amorphous political agendas in the conservation world, where ignorant politicians yielded power and influence over transitory officials for the sake of paltry dollars.

Kgalagadi versus Kruger

Calm down; I can practically hear you screaming at me already! I know, I know, the two parks cannot, and perhaps should not, be compared. But the truth is that I cannot get the red dust of the Kalahari out of my one shoe while my other foot is still firmly planted in the land of the Kruger-holics. So I do find myself comparing the two. And, as South Africa’s biggest national parks – both of which claim transfrontier status and are popular amongst local and foreign visitors alike – I am sure I am not the only one who weighs up the options when faced with two weeks of annual leave. To Kruger or Kgalagadi? So recently when faced with that impossible either/or decision, I did what few men dare and spent a week in each, and here is my comparison like it or not.

greater-kruger-samuel-cox — Another beautiful day comes to an end in the Greater Kruger National Park ©Samuel Cox

My experience

Kgalagadi
To compare apples with apples, I stuck to the SANParks camps on the South African side of the park and divided my time equally between Twee Rivieren, Mata Mata and Nossob. We camped in true Kgalagadi style and, while I am still finding sand in many a crevice, it is the way to go. A cold spell during our time in the park in August meant that temperatures at night reached a chilly -9°C and that, despite popular opinion, mornings and evenings were not necessarily the best time for sightings.

The silence, vastness and unexpected beauty of the landscapes are what stand out from my trip. The image of a wildebeest left dying alone at a waterhole, while a jackal awaited his imminent demise and an oryx stood guard over his body, is forever etched in my memory as a symbol of this land of contrasts and of life and death in a magical desert.

A lone jackal has the waterhole to himself ©Samuel Cox

Camp with the cool kids in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park ©Janine Avery

Kruger
It is not humanly possible to cover all that Kruger offers in a week. From walking safaris to rustic bush camps, 4×4 trails, golfing, and a host of accommodation options, Kruger has it all. That said, I am a firm believer that a visit to the Kruger is best enjoyed slowly. Take it easy, make yourself a base at one of the exquisite rest camps, and indulge a little.

A region where nature meets hospitality and a connection between man and beast reigns supreme

So with this in mind, I divided my time between some of the popular camps in the south of the park to get a taste of what the average visitor experiences. While not everyone’s cup of tea, I like that I can stop for a great steak and a glass of wine at one of the modern restaurants in the rest camps and that well-tarred roads and little loops mean I can return to the shop easily when the need for ice cream calls. By doing it this way, there was always something new to gawk at around every corner, and a host of picnic spots and places to stretch my legs – and it was these simple comforts that stood out from my trip.
The image of an elephant taking a morning drink at the waterhole outside the rest camp while I sipped on my cappuccino is etched in my memory as a symbol of this region where nature meets hospitality, and a connection between man and beast reigns supreme.

What you can expect to see

Kgalagadi
Big cat sightings in the Kgalagadi are incredible. The wildlife densities are lower than in Kruger, which means that you can drive for a couple of hours with little more than some oryx, springboks and wildebeests to keep you entertained. But when you do see big cats, the sightings are pretty spectacular. Talking to fellow red-dust fanatics in our campsites, stories ranged from cheetahs climbing trees and four tiny cheetah cubs playing, to big black-maned lions causing a roadblock and an entire pride lazily lapping at the waterhole. My big cat sightings included spending time alone with a leopard for about half an hour, a cheetah calling consistently while we followed it at a leisurely pace, and a lion causing heart palpitations right next to the fence at Nossob Rest Camp.

A juvenile gabar goshawk is just one of the many birds of prey that you could spot ©Anja Denker

Everyone we met in the Kgalagadi was also mad about birds in some way, and raptors are a sheer delight in this part of the world. Much to my mom’s dismay, there was a bird of prey around every corner. Still, even her non-birder self eventually learnt to appreciate just how close you could get to a martial eagle or spotted eagle-owl in the Kgalagadi.

With this in mind, Kgalagadi is a treat for photographers, thanks to its relaxed wildlife, majestic light, fewer cars and spectacular scenery. Smaller animals are also always around to entertain and provide great subjects on which to test your photography skills and camera settings. From meerkats and ground squirrels to whistling rats and sociable weavers, which astound with their gigantic nests on virtually every tree, you will always find an interesting subject at which to point your lens.

Four cheetah cubs make everyone’s day in the Kgalagadi! ©Cornell Nortier

Kruger
Great for first-time safari-goers, it is not uncommon to see the Big Five in one day in Kruger – be it on a self-drive or guided safari. Apart from the famous five, Kruger is home to an impressive number of species – including almost 2,000 plants, 147 different mammals and 517 bird species. Some of the more interesting animals, which a fair amount of people have been lucky to spot, include wild dogs, bushbabies, aardwolves, aardvarks, pangolins, and roan and sable antelopes.

The wide variety of animal species and high density of game means that a safari in Kruger offers something new every day – even something new around every corner – and it is precisely this that calls people back to this great land time and time again. From crocodiles and hippos to elephants and rhinos, zebras and giraffes, Kruger is also great for bucket-list tickers, first-time safari-goers or families with small kids.

My trip to Kruger included close-up sightings of elephants, rhinos, cheetahs and lions – all either just off the road or directly in our way, although we weren’t asking them to move. The majestic leopard continues to elude me when I visit the park; however, a quick two nights in the Sabi Sand, which is part of the Greater Kruger ecosystem, meant I got my spotted fix.

Photographic opportunities were limited in the park itself as sightings were often shared with a fair number of other vehicles, but this is the price you pay for staying in the south during the busy season. If you venture further north on roads less travelled, or on foot on one of the walking trails, you’ll probably find that sightings are much more rewarding. By experiencing Kruger on foot, I have had male lions all to myself, have come face-to-face with elephants, and have watched hippos take to the water at a spot that can’t be reached in a vehicle.

A zebra fight in the Kruger ©Corlette Wessels

Which park is best for you?

Kgalagadi
The Kgalagadi is fantastic for camping enthusiasts, as the three South African rest camps are spacious and ideal for extended braais with gin and tonics in hand. On the Botswana side, no fences mean that lions licking your tent or hyenas coming to see what’s on the menu is not uncommon, and this connection to the wild is one of the many reasons that people return time and time again.

There are several more sophisticated accommodation options, such as the wilderness camps of Urikaruus and Kalahari Tented Camp, and a few lodges are available for those that don’t like roughing it, such as the community-owned Fair Trade Tourism certified !Xaus Lodge, and Ta Shebube’s Rooiputs and Polentswa lodges on the Botswana side. The new ‘riverfront chalets’ at Mata Mata are also lovely, overlooking the dry riverbed where wildebeest and springbok graze peacefully and jackals dart around at night.

However, camping is arguably why most people come to the Kgalagadi, and 4×4 trailers and rooftop tents are the way to fit in with the crowd. The Kgalagadi is best suited to those who like to kick back, relax and feel the desert breeze in their hair, don’t mind a little sand in their sheets, and enjoy a time that stands still and a silence broken only by the sound of a lion roaring.

The Kgalagadi camps do offer some guided 4×4 trails, safari walks and the usual game drives. We enjoyed three night-drives during our trip, which gave us the chance to spot lesser-seen nocturnal creatures, such as bat-eared and Cape foxes, spring hares, owls, genets and African wild cats. But I found the real joy of the Kgalagadi to be taking long, slow, sandy self-drives. However, do be warned that the corrugated roads cover patches of deep sand that are best navigated in a capable 4×4, as the guy stuck in his Renault Clio and the woman crying in her Toyota Corolla buried up to its chassis, will attest.

bat-eared-fox-kgalagadi-samuel-cox — A scruffy bat-eared fox in the Kgalagadi stares at the camera ©Samuel Cox

Kruger
One thing I love about the Kruger is the versatility that it offers. When budgets are tight, you can camp, caravan or hire a cheap room in one of the rest camps or a B&B just outside the park gates. But if you are celebrating something special or feel like a splurge, several private game lodges both within the park and in the private game reserves that make up the Greater Kruger region are on offer to cater to your every whim. This makes Kruger ideal for a wide range of travellers, be it honeymooners who want to be wined, dined and pampered, or families with young kids that want short bursts of game drives followed by a place where children can run free and parents can catch a nap in the heat of the day. The Kruger National Park rest camps also offer easy access to restaurants, shops and facilities, and this easy DIY-style of holiday is what makes the park appeal to a wide range of travellers.

Kruger also offers several road conditions, from main tarred stretches to dusty dirt roads. It also provides the chance to book guided game drives or even head off on a 4×4 eco-trail in the park. And while you may feel like a dinky car when face-to-face with an elephant in your rental Kia Picanto, it is quite possible and comfortable to enjoy Kruger in almost any vehicle. With accessible routes to follow and places to frequently stop, be it to enjoy a skottle breakfast, indulge in a decadent lunch or get out to take in the view, the Kruger National Park can be enjoyed in a multitude of ways.

For those that are ‘Krugered-out’ or ‘have done Kruger’ I recommend you take a trip to one of the quieter camps in the picturesque northern section of the park, enjoy a night sleeping out in a hide, book on the mountain bike trail at Olifants, or take a walk on the wild side with some of the best guides that you could ever have the pleasure of meeting on a backpacking trail.

Crossing borders

Kgalagadi
Transfrontier parks have been established so that animals can roam freely across invisible boundaries, and natural migration can take place. It’s about ecosystems taking pride of place over geological or political boundaries; promoting collaboration between the countries involved. This also allows us humans to roam free to some extent and, within the boundaries of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, one can travel between South Africa and Botswana – without the need for a passport. Granted that one can’t exit into the surrounding countries (with the small exception of a tiny farmstall on the Namibian side outside Mata Mata to which you can quickly walk to pick up a gemsbok fillet for dinner).

Kgalagadi, at nearly 38,000km², is larger than many countries and one of the largest national parks in the world. It was officially declared a transfrontier park in 2000, making it the first of its kind in Africa. It is a combination of the Kalahari Gemsbok National Park in South Africa and the Gemsbok National Park in Botswana. The park is bordered by the peaceful countries of Botswana and Namibia and, with few settlements existing on the park boundaries, conservation efforts are embraced by all. The communities around the park are often made up of those that work in the park itself, so things like bushmeat poaching are a non-issue. While human-wildlife conflict occasionally raises its head when lions manage to breach the park’s boundaries, the communities seem willing to call those in charge to correctly handle the matter, rather than taking it into their own hands.

Part of the park is owned by the local Khomani San and Mier communities, and the local community is allowed to use the land for cultural purposes. It is on this land that the Fair Trade Tourism certified !Xaus Lodge can be found.

©Fair Trade Tourism — Local members of the community play an active role in conservation efforts ©!Xaus Lodge, Fair Trade Tourism

Kruger
The boundaries of the Kruger National Park cover nearly two million hectares in wild space. The national park was established in 1898 and, while talks for the declaration of a transfrontier park started in 1990, it was not until 2002 that the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park was made official.

The Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park links the Kruger with its neighbours – the Limpopo National Park in Mozambique and Zimbabwe’s Gonarezhou National Park, Manjinji Pan Sanctuary and Malipati Safari Area. This conservation area also includes two areas between Kruger and Gonarezhou, namely the Sengwe communal land and the Makuleke region. This project joins some of the most beautiful and essential wildlife areas into a vast conservation area of over 37,000km². It is just the first phase in a plan for a larger transfrontier conservation area that will measure almost 100,000km².

With turbulent political climates in these countries, it is no secret that rhino poaching has ravaged the park and elephant poaching is on the rise. But it may only be through working together that these remaining wilderness areas are protected. With a memorandum of understanding between Mozambique and South Africa being implemented, we are now seeing coordinated law enforcement operations, management efforts, joint training initiatives and anti-poaching work across borders.

What this also means is that visitors are now offered several cross-border tourism experiences. In 2013 a wilderness walking trail in the Pafuri area was launched, and visitors can now cross easily from Kruger National Park in South Africa to Limpopo National Park in Mozambique – opening up a shorter route to the beautiful Mozambican coastline and that perfect bush and beach break.

Thanks to cross-border agreements and experiences, hopefully, the only way is up for the Kruger’s wildlife ©Ross Couper.

How to get there and what to do in the surrounding area

Kgalagadi
Stock up on food and water in Upington as the shops in the park are minimal. Be sure also to fill up here and take extra jerry cans for fuel, as while there are petrol stations at each of the three SANParks camps within the park, the fuel within the park can be unreliable. Upington is 255km away along a pleasant tarred road and is home to the nearest airport. Airlink flights from Johannesburg or Cape Town are available frequently, and from here you can hire a vehicle or book a transfer or tour with a company like Tata Ma Tata tours, which specialises in trips to the Kgalagadi and the surrounding areas.

A trip to the Kgalagadi can be combined with one of the other arid region national parks based nearby. Combine your trip with an adventure into Namibia to see the Quiver Tree Forest and to the /Ai/Ais Richtersveld for a dip in the hot springs and to take in the views over the Fish River Canyon. The Augrabies Falls National Park is also easily reached from Upington and offers the ideal overnight stop before heading down to see the flowers in Namaqualand and onwards along the coast to Cape Town.

Enjoy the best of two countries in one park! ©Ryan Avery

Kruger
Airlink flies from Cape Town or Johannesburg to Nelspruit KMIA or directly into the park via Skukuza’s airport, which I recommend. Car hire is available from either of these airports and, with some towns close to the various park gates and well-stocked shops within the rest camps, self-catering for your trip is super easy. The bigger rest camps are also home to some well-known restaurant franchises like Mugg & Bean, Cattle Baron and Wimpy, and the picnic sites either offer skottle facilities or little take-away spots for the peckish.

For those looking for a bit of luxury, private game reserves like the Sabi Sand, Manyeleti, Klaserie and Timbavati share open borders to the national park and form part of the Greater Kruger National Park ecosystem. You can even take a lodge link flight from Nelspruit KMIA or Skukuza directly to the door of one of the stunning Sabi Sand lodges like I did at Arathusa where I touched down to a leopard on the runway.

For accommodation options at the best prices visit our private travel & conservation club to view our collection of camps and lodges. If you are not yet a member, see how to JOIN below this story.

About the author

JANINE AVERY is the first to confess that she has been bitten by the travel bug… badly. She is a lover of all things travel, from basic tenting with creepy crawlies to lazing in luxury lodges – she will give it all a go.

Janine is passionate about wildlife and conservation, and she comes from a long line of biologists, researchers and botanists.

SANParks responds to Kruger off-takes

EXTRACT FROM THE FOLLOWING THIRD PARTY SOURCE: Written by: Lesley Nyawo, Public Relations Assistant at SANParks – Kruger National Park

The large herbivore biomass is currently the highest ever in Kruger’s history – with +- 20,000 elephant, 47,000 buffalo, and 7,500 hippos – which results in significant changes in habitat.

Buffalo and hippo are drought-sensitive species, and previous droughts in Kruger National Park have shown population declines of up to 50%. The buffalo population is at higher densities than previous droughts, so it is, therefore, expected that the population will incur huge losses during the current drought. If the numbers that remained after the previous droughts in the 1990s for buffalo and hippo are considered (14,000 and 2,000 respectively), significant mortalities are anticipated. Hippos and buffaloes are the largest grazers with the highest biomass and impact on habitats. The purist way of allowing natural attrition to take its course is not always ecologically the best, especially if populations are unnaturally high due to man-made influences.

Removals will be focused on alleviating pressure on sensitive areas in the park e.g. removing hippo from small natural pools where they have concentrated in unnaturally high densities and defecate in the water, making it unusable for other animals. These hippos generally originated from man-made dams that dried up and now populate small natural pools in large numbers.

Culling, cropping, harvesting, ecological removals, sustainable resource use are all terms that have been used. If the term culling in your book means controlling the size of these populations, that is not what SANParks is doing. The numbers are also not cast in concrete, purely as it is not possible to determine how the situation will unfold as the drought further develops. However, the numbers will be kept very low (between 0.5 and 1% of the respective populations).

Logistically it will not be possible to remove higher numbers now, and ecologically it will not be suitable to remove unsustainably high numbers in future. In view of the huge populations of these large herbivores and the mortalities we have already observed amongst buffalo and hippo this year, as well as the anticipated mortalities later in the year, these numbers to be removed are not significant at the population level.

The current drought is being noted for its unprecedented impact on human well-being with an estimated 22 million persons in Southern Africa in need of some assistance. SANParks cannot remain oblivious to this issue. Kruger National Park is, therefore, planning to use the opportunity to sustainably harvest in the region of 350 animals during this drought in order to test different models for meat distribution to disadvantaged, low-income communities on the border of the park. The Kruger National Park will be targeting quintile primary schools, part of the National School Feeding scheme and will use these drought-related removals as an ad hoc opportunity to share benefits with communities.

In light of veterinary regulations with regards to foot and mouth disease, the park will be testing the feasibility and suitability of cloven-hoofed animals products permitted to leave the park, which include: break-dry biltong (BRB) and well-cooked meat (WCM). A secondary objective of the removals will be assessing genetic selection for fitness during droughts and the interactions between disease and drought.

This is not a “sneaky reintroduction of culling by SANParks” as put by some. Kruger National Park is managed according to an approved management plan that makes provision for both biodiversity management and sustainable resource use. Part of the process of drafting this plan was an intensive public consultation process. It is practically not possible to consult the public on each and every management action implemented. A new round of revisions of the Kruger National Park Management Plan has started and will come in full swing in the year 2017. The public is encouraged to register and take part in this process.

Celebrating culture at the Kuru Dance Festival

The Kuru Dance Festival is an annual cultural event where different San groups from Botswana, Namibia and South Africa come together to celebrate and share their rich cultural heritage of storytelling, song and dance. Written by: Bakang Baloi

Dancers gather at the Dqae Qare Farm in the village of D’kar just outside Ghanzi in Botswana. The heat, the dust, the clapping and the rhythmic stamping of feet all add to an intensely spiritual experience.

Different dances are performed to tell the life story of the San people. There are hunting and gathering dances, rite of passage, puberty and courtship dances and, of course, trance healing dances. Hunting dances are dramatic renditions of the hunt – from spoor recognition to the ultimately slaughtering the animal. They celebrate a successful hunt and pay reverent respect to Mother Nature. The Kuru Dance Festival is about these dances.

Rites of passage dances welcome a young woman into adulthood and marriage. A young woman experiencing puberty for the first time is said to be suffering from the ‘eland illness’ and is secluded. The eland symbolises femininity, fertility and good health. In her seclusion the young woman is ritually painted in red ochre, wood ash and charcoal, all mixed together with animal fat and plant pigments. Puberty dances are demure, coquettish and playfully seductive. Males taking part in the dances enact the mating behaviour of eland bulls by sniffing the female folk, grimacing in mock ‘Flehman display’ and emulating the mounting action of bull animals.

Khoi-San healers or shamans are spiritual custodians for the community who intervene with the ancestral spirits and other venerated forms on the community’s behalf. They intercede with all of creation to heal the community, to request good weather and successful hunting trips or to foretell future events. They perform trance healing rituals to propitiate the ancestors. Even though performances of healing dances may be done during the day, a real healing ceremony is conducted at night. Night time is the mythical part of the day when the universe vibrates with sacred energy.

Kruger cull: a bad idea?

One of the basic principles of wildlife management is that large game reserves require less intensive management than small ones. This concept is very applicable when discussing the ecological management of the Kruger National Park.

The ecological impacts of disturbances have a far greater effect on smaller reserves than they do on larger ones. For instance, if a fire burns 5,000 hectares of a 10,000-hectare game reserve, that is a major impact that needs to be managed. However, the same 5,000-hectare fire in Kruger (2 million hectares) is negligible and will have almost no impact. This concept can be applied to all spheres of ecological management – the impact of overgrazing, elephant impacts, diseases, water availability etc.

To say that the Kruger National Park is fenced and, therefore, needs to be micro-managed is incorrect – Kruger is a large enough system that is able to withstand the majority of ecological impacts originating inside its borders – and that includes elephant impacts and the effects of drought.

The majority of species in Kruger occupy fixed home ranges or territories, and historic migrations outside of Kruger were limited to mainly wildebeests and zebras (elephants undertake long-distance movements by nature and this is not a migration). Most of the areas where zebras and wildebeests used to migrate to in spring have now been re-included into the Greater Kruger ecological system (Klaserie, Timbavati, Sabi Sands etc). Therefore, to say that their migration routes have been cut off is incorrect. Unfortunately, migrations back into these areas are unlikely to occur – mainly because of vegetation changes during the period that they were isolated from Kruger (again an example of the size effect). With the current drought, one does not find herds of animals massing along the boundaries of Kruger to escape.

Another important point is how savannahs are maintained in nature. Savannah is a unique biome where there is an uneasy “co-existence” of woody plants and grass. This system is continually developing (vegetation succession), and in Kruger, given the opportunity, the system would progress into a woodland thicket. Ecological disturbances are essential in reversing this natural progression from mixed woodlands to woodland thickets. In other words, savannahs thrive on disturbances – it maintains not only species diversity but also productivity. Disturbances such as fire, drought, elephants, buffaloes and hippos, among others, are critical in reversing the slow and steady progression to a woodland thicket, which would offer far less habitat for animals and also far lower biodiversity of all major taxons.

Climate change is also a major contributory factor to this progression (higher levels of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere encourage the more rapid growth of woody vegetation). Savannahs need constant disturbance to create niches for species that would not be there if the effects of those disturbances were restricted.

So, to all those people supporting culling of animals in Kruger, please reconsider your viewpoint – sure, it is not a pleasant sight to see animals dying during a drought. Sure, it is a waste not to use those carcasses to feed people, but how much meat will you get off the carcass of a dying buffalo anyway?

There are ecosystem processes at work during a drought that are critical for the efficient functioning of the ecosystem – in good times and in bad. Let those ecosystem processes do their job!

Leopards: The Cats of the Shadows

The spiked mountain range of uKahlamba in South Africa is often called the barrier of spears. Also known as the Drakensberg, which translates to ‘dragon mountains’, its high, jagged peaks shadow a cave hidden in a sandstone cliff. The cave once concealed creatures that stirred only with the setting sun – leopards.

To reach the animal’s hide-out, a hiker must scale Solar Cliffs and Cathedral Peak and pass through Ndedema Gorge. Not everyone survives the journey.

A modern sign near the cave’s entrance announces it is ‘Closed’ as if its dweller had served notice. The inhabitant was a leopard, its lair called Leopard Cave.

Near this opening in the Earth is a rock painting of a leopard chasing a bushman who escaped to return another day to tell his tale in art.

The leopard likely had good reason to give chase and eventually vacate the premises. Its species, Panthera pardus, has been overhunted and harassed and lost much of its habitat and its prey.

A blind spot in conservation

Smallest in the genus Panthera – of which lions, tigers, and jaguars are also members – leopards (Panthera pardus) once lived from Siberia to South Africa.

But the cats have relinquished as much as 75 per cent of their range, according to a paper published in May 2016 in the scientific journal PeerJ. The study — sponsored by the National Geographic Society’s Big Cats Initiative and conducted by its scientists and others affiliated with the Zoological Society of London (ZSL), Duke University, Panthera (an international cat research and conservation organisation), and the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Cat Specialist Group — is the first to produce a comprehensive analysis of leopards’ status across their entire range and for all nine subspecies.

The PeerJ co-authors found that leopards long ago occupied a vast range of approximately 35 million square kilometres throughout Africa, the Middle East and Asia. Today, however, leopards are restricted to about 8.5 million square kilometres. In Africa, range loss varies by region – as much as 99 per cent in North Africa, 86 to 95 per cent in West Africa, and 28 to 51 per cent in Southern Africa.

The scientists created the most detailed reconstruction to date of the leopard’s range, says paper co-author Peter Gerngross, a cartographer at the Austria-based mapping firm BIOGEOMAPS.

The biologists reviewed more than 1,300 sources to derive the leopard’s historic (post-1750) and current range.

“Contrary to the pervasive impression of the leopard as one of the most widespread, adaptable and resilient carnivores,” the researchers reveal in their paper, “our calculated range loss exceeds the average range loss for [17 species of] the world’s largest carnivores.”

The results confirmed conservationists’ suspicions that leopards are losing the battle against a many-headed threat – habitat loss and fragmentation, human population density, conflict with livestock-keepers and game-keepers, loss of prey, killing for the illegal trade in skins and parts, and, in some areas, unsustainable but legal trophy hunting.

“Our results challenge the conventional assumption that leopards remain relatively abundant and not seriously threatened,” says paper author Andrew Jacobson of ZSL. “The leopard is an elusive animal, which is why it has taken so long to recognise its global decline.”

“The cat’s status is more grave than previously understood.”

Because of that downturn, the cats are currently listed as “Vulnerable” by the IUCN. According to Andrew Stein, a member of the group and co-author of the PeerJ paper, the organisation’s Cat Specialist Group recently recommended a change from Near Threatened to Vulnerable. “The change signals to leopard range countries that the cat’s status is more grave than previously understood,” he says. “It begins a process of deeper evaluation, including calls for greater protection and intensified regulation of trade and trophy hunting.”

Philipp Henschel of Panthera, also a paper co-author, adds that “a severe blind spot has existed in the conservation of the leopard, especially in North and West Africa. The international conservation community must support initiatives protecting the species. Our next steps will determine the leopard’s fate.”

Leopard findings

Leopards are part of what’s called the large carnivore guild, which includes lions and hyenas. An ecological guild is a group of species that exploits the same resources. “The large carnivore guild is mostly intact in protected areas,” says South African National Parks biologist Sam Ferreira. “These are the places where leopards still thrive and have relatively large populations.”

Results of a camera trap survey Ferreira conducted in the N’wanetsi concession in Kruger National Park in 2008 led to an estimate of 19 leopards in a 150 square kilometre area. He and colleagues published the results in 2013 in the African Journal of Ecology. The biologists continue using camera traps to study the park’s leopards.

Next door at the Sabi Sand Game Reserve, biologist Guy Balme of Panthera is working with safari guides at more than 20 lodges to track leopards. “Because of the large number of vehicles in Sabi Sand and the reserve’s long history of protection,” says Balme, “leopards have become habituated to game drives.” Guides are familiar with the leopards in their areas. “Their unique spot patterns can distinguish individual leopards,” says Balme, “so we’ve been able to monitor their fates over time.”

Biologists and safari guides have tracked more than 600 leopards over the last 37 years through the Sabi Sand Leopard Project. The results align with Sabi Sand’s protected, stable leopard population.

Across the continent in West Africa, however, the news isn’t as good. From 2009 to 2012, Henschel led big cat surveys in 21 of the region’s largest protected areas. His team’s efforts were rewarded – to some degree. “We found leopards in seven of the 21 areas,” he says, “but only one of these populations numbered more than 100 individuals.” Fewer than 500 breeding-age leopards may remain in the entire West African region, Henschel believes.

He and Luke Hunter, president of Panthera, and scientists at the U.K.’s University of Oxford and other institutions, have identified another threat to Africa’s leopards – competition with bushmeat hunters for the same food source.

Their research, reported in the Journal of Zoology, took place in the rainforests of the Congo Basin. It shows that bushmeat hunting is likely responsible for a dramatic drop in leopard numbers in the Congo. Leopards have vanished without a trace in the most over-hunted of the project’s sites.

“A critical part of protecting big cats and their landscapes is documenting the presence and behaviour of wild cats using camera traps,” says Hunter. “Panthera’s motion-activated cameras collect hundreds of thousands of wildlife images every year. With help from the public, we can analyse these photos to identify the animals shown, enabling us to track wild cat population trends over time and determine what conservation actions are needed to protect these species better.”

A leopard takes in the stillness of the night in the Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya ©Alison Buttigieg

Survival instincts

Wherever leopards manage to eke out a successful living, they do so by stealth. They’re camouflaged by their spots, blending into the dappled shade of trees and rock piles.

Leopards are also furtive in other ways. They mainly come out at night. By day, studies have shown, leopards hide in dark recesses such as caves. In hot, dry environments, leopards use caves to escape high temperatures. “Leopards are secretive predators, making use of caves as retreats, feeding places, and breeding lairs,” states palaeontologist Charles Brain in his book, The Hunters or the Hunted?: An Introduction to African Cave Taphonomy.

In South Africa, scientist Darryl de Ruiter of Texas A&M University discovered one such leopard cave in Malapa Nature Reserve. “In contrast to the ‘leopard in the tree’ idea that these cats cache their kills most often in large tree branches,” says de Ruiter, “they may well prefer to use the deep recesses of caves,” as vultures, hyenas and lions, which might steal a leopard’s kill, usually won’t enter, and caves may give leopards the ability to store larger prey. Most caves in the Highveld area of South Africa have trees growing in their entrances. “Nonetheless,” says de Ruiter, who published his findings in the Journal of Archaeological Science, “leopards haul carcasses into caves, avoiding trees entirely. In our study, 83 per cent of the cached carcasses were in caves, and only 17 per cent in trees.”

A leopard comes out of its cave hideaway ©Corlette Wessels

A look at the future

Our ancestors may have been intimately familiar with leopards, ancient cave paintings in Europe tell us. But a question asked by biologist Theodore Bailey in The African Leopard: Ecology and Behavior of a Solitary Felid remains: “Will wild leopards survive to evoke the admiration of our far-away descendants as they once did our distant ancestors?”

Recently reported sightings of erythristic, or ‘strawberry pink,’ leopards in South Africa’s Lydenburg region of Mpumalanga may be an indication. Scientists recently reported in the journal Bothalia: African Biodiversity & Conservation that “the presence of this rare colour morph may reflect the consequences of [leopard] population fragmentation.”

Leopards can survive in human-dominated landscapes if they have enough cover, access to wild prey, and acceptance by local people. But in many areas, leopard habitat has been converted to farmland, and native herbivores have been replaced with livestock.

Scientists believe it is mostly a matter of developing tolerance to leopards’ presence. Leopards are usually quiet neighbours and, in many locations, they’ve long-lived among us. However, successfully sharing the same territory will take some adjustment on the part of humans. Livestock owners, for example, may need to develop new ways of guarding their herds.

“It’s not asking too much of people to give thought to the welfare of these cats,” says Stein. “Leopards badly need the reprieve.”

About the author

Ecologist and science journalist Cheryl Lyn Dybas, a Fellow of the International League of Conservation Writers, fell in love with Africa and its savannas at first sight. She lives in the U.S., outside of Washington, D.C., and also writes on Africa and other subjects for National Geographic, BioScience, Natural History, National Wildlife, Scientific American, Oceanography, The Washington Post, and many other publications. She is a featured speaker on conservation biology and science journalism at universities, museums and other institutions. Eye-to-eye with the wild is her favourite place to be.

A Savuti fishing leopard in action

We were on safari in the Savuti, Chobe National Park in Botswana during the winter months when the Savuti Channel had been reduced to a series of small pools. We knew about Savuti fishing leopards thanks to a BBC documentary we had watched, so we waited close to the waterhole where a leopard had recently been spotted in the hope of witnessing a fishing feline. Written by: Marco Ansón

And then we saw her. There were catfish in the waters, but when we saw the leopard move to the pool’s edge, we initially thought she would just have a drink.

However, the leopard surprised us by slowly entering the water pool. Time stood still for us as we watched, and she seemed to take a long time to make her way steadily further into the shallows.

Everything was silent. Then suddenly, the leopard dunked her head into the dark pool and, as fast as lightning, caught a catfish (barbel) in her mouth!

She left the muddy waters quickly and came close to our vehicle to rest in the shade and eat her catfish trophy. We couldn’t believe our luck!

Watch the video of this fishing leopard here:

More about that Savute safari

Savute is the remote western section of Chobe National Park – far away from the shores of the Chobe River. Abundant wildlife – including lions that specialise in hunting elephants during the dry season – congregates along the Savute channel, which empties into the Savute Marsh.

The Savute River was dry from the late 19th century until it flowed some 75 years later in 1958, only to dry up again periodically for years and even decades. The dry savannas are dotted with rocky outcrops where ancient humans left their ochre drawings. Book your Savute safari here

A prehistoric giant of the oceans – the leatherback turtle

nesting — Leatherback turtle © Bart Lukasik

Seven species of sea turtles are roaming our world’s seas and oceans. Four of them regularly visit the east coast of Southern Africa: the hawksbill, loggerhead, green, and the species which is both the most impressive and elusive, the giant leatherback turtle.

All sea turtles undertake long, perilous journeys to return to the beaches where they hatched to lay their eggs. Leatherbacks – the largest of all living turtles – break all the distance records. They live in open water and can travel across the ocean in pursuit of the best jellyfish feeding grounds, which they prey on. The resultant round-trip to nesting grounds can be up to 6,000km.

To accomplish such journeys, leatherbacks have developed a hydrodynamic, teardrop-shaped body. Their carapace is covered with oily skin to further reduce drag, unlike other sea turtles with bony scutes or external plates on their carapace. This immense body can grow over two metres in length and weigh between 250 and 700 kg on average, although a weight of 900 kg has been recorded.

Leatherback turtles are propelled by the largest flippers of all sea turtles – the flippers can reach 2.5 metres in length. They allow the leatherback to achieve considerable speed needed to traverse long distances, which unfortunately no scuba diver can match. Sightings of these turtles underwater are few and far between, especially as these turtles do not favour coral reefs and only pass through to get to the beaches, where they nest and lay eggs.

It is fair to say that meeting one while scuba diving is rated among the rarest sightings of marine life. Even if you are lucky enough, it will most likely be a fleeting moment, as you do not stand a chance of catching up with a swimming leatherback.

You can, however, see them on one of the northeast coast beaches of South Africa, like Sodwana Bay and St. Lucia in Isimangaliso Wetland Park. During nesting season, which takes place in the summer months in South Africa, leatherbacks can be spotted, mostly at night, laying eggs in the beach sand across many kilometres of local beaches. Find your environmentally responsible turtle watch operator and meet one of the last living dinosaurs of our time.

Facts about leatherback turtles:

1. Leatherbacks feed almost exclusively on jellyfish. They often mistake plastic bags floating in the ocean for food, which can be fatal by blocking digestion tracks. Segregate and recycle your plastic waste to avoid contributing to this unnecessary threat.

2. They are the fastest-moving reptiles of all. Their average speed can reach 10km/hr with bursts up to 30km/hr.

3. They inhabit all subtropical and tropical waters and have been seen even in the waters of the Arctic. The open ocean is their main habitat; they only move closer to land during nesting season.

4. A female leatherback lays about 100 eggs in every clutch. The nest’s ambient temperature will determine the sex of hatchlings (baby turtles) – hotter nests will produce more females and cooler ones will be more male dominated.

5. Male leatherbacks will stay in the open water their whole lives, while females will periodically return to their nesting regions to lay eggs.

Wüstenquell in Namibia offers unique rock formations for photographers

Wüstenquell is a private nature reserve just outside Karabib in Namibia. Its abundant rock formations make it one of most spectacular locations for any landscape photographer, providing you with a show of beautiful panoramics of the desert along with its fauna and flora.

Situated on the edge of the Namib desert, within the misty region of the Atlantic Ocean, Wüstenquell is surrounded by huge granite rock formations, crystal clear running springs and a large variety of succulent and desert plants.

There is no other place in the world with the same amount of these type rock formations per km². There are three different types of granite weathering which mainly consists of feldspat, quarz and glimmer.

We take a closer look at some of these formations below:

1. Wollsackverwitterung – underground weathering

During the damp climate period of the Tertiär, water entered and dissolved the granite along its gaps and chasms. Later the result of this weathering came to the surface resulting in some truly unique looking rock formations.

2. Desquamation – physical weathering

Physical weathering is caused by flat, shell moulded plates that have burst off the rocks due to temperature changes. This can be found fairly easily around the farm house.

3. Tafoni – chemical weathering

Chemical weathering causes ball or kidney shaped cavities. They vary in size from only a few centimetres up to half a metre in diameter. Some of these so called ‘weathering crusts’ form stunning rock overhangs. It was this form of weathering that gave Wüstenquell its unique symbol, the Adlerfels (Eagles Rock).

The reserve is also home to springbok, oryx, ostrich, kudu, warthog, leopard and numerous smaller animals and birds.

Hiking in these beautiful formations is an adventure on its own. For the inquisitive, there are also some caves to explore, complete with bushmen art and much more.

With the beautiful clear skies Namibia has to offer, night photography is an absolute must when on the reserve. When planning your compositions , you can make use of not only the rock formations but the unique quiver trees that provide you with beautiful textured foregrounds. Wüstenquell is worth a visit by any aspiring photographer.

Kruger to Canyons

Hoedspruit is my favourite safari gateway town to the Kruger National Park in South Africa. With several private Big 5 game reserves neighbouring the town and the spectacular Blyde River Canyon nearby, it is located in a fantastic stretch of paradise, known as Kruger to Canyons. This is a wonderfully diverse safari destination for those who prefer to mix up their game viewing with cultural and adventure activities. During my recent week in the area, I sampled some of the many activities and lodges available – and I left already planning my next visit!

blyde-canyon-photography-des-jacobs — The beautiful Blyde Canyon is a photographer’s dream ©Des Jacobs

Watch this short video of Simon’s week in Kruger to Canyons

Mountain bike migration

The main reason for this particular trip to the area was to participate in the second edition of the K2C Cycle Tour – an annual 95-kilometre mountain bike fundraising tour from the Kruger National Park to the Blyde River Canyon, passing through various private game reserves on the way.

Eighty lucky cyclists of all levels undertook this epic journey for the soul, split into five groups, each accompanied by two armed cyclist guards and a backup vehicle. For safety reasons, this isn’t a race, which means that the pace is slow and the attitude laid-back – we frequently had to stop and gently navigate our way past herds of elephants, buffalos and even the odd snorting rhino!

Rotary Hoedspruit organised the event superbly, and the many tables in rest areas along the way groaned under the weight of delicious snacks, water and energy drinks. The tables were staffed by sponsors who cheered us on and encouraged even the most lethargic to keep going. I highly recommend this superb event and encourage anyone interested to contact the organisers soon about the next edition.

A group effort on the K2C cycle tour ©Simon Espley

On safari in Kruger to Canyons

Once the cycle tour had ended, there were still plenty of other fantastic reasons to stick around in the Kruger to Canyons area for a few days, and I didn’t need any convincing. I happily headed back into the bushveld – on four wheels this time – and was blessed by the gods of safari luck on a three-hour game drive that would impress even the most seasoned safari-goer. Back at the lodge afterwards, beverage in hand, I explained to the wide-eyed American couple that the last three hours did not constitute a typical game drive, which can sometimes consist of nothing but the odd impala and turtle dove. But I fear my advice fell on deaf ears, as the next two days produced regular Big Five encounters and plenty of action!

Following elephants on safari in a private game reserve ©Villiers Steyn

Rather than attempting to re-hash my three days in the bush, here is an extract from my travel diary:
Makanyi Lodge, Timbavati Private Nature Reserve. Guide: Warren ‘Woza’ Jacobs

18 July 2016, 17h30
A herd of elephants surrounds us, very relaxed, then a young female just a few metres away gives us horns for no reason – ear-clapping and a big attitude before she changes gear and wanders off as if nothing happened. My companions giggle nervously and breathe out, and we are on our way again.

18h30
Damside sundowner drinks – surrounded by 11 rotund lions as they relax, satiated after gorging on a two-day-old buffalo carcass. Three rhinos trot by to slake their thirst before snorting off into the fading light. A massive herd of buffalos on the far bank drinking and kicking up dust – must be a thousand-plus thirsty bovines. Lions not interested – #FlatCats. Then a buffalo bellows in the dark distance and hyenas cackle excitedly. The largest male lion is up and running, very focused. So are we, engine gunning and flashlight darting, searching. Ten minutes later and the bellowing and whooping are intense – then we smell blood. Up ahead, we see hyenas mauling a buffalo, tearing chunks off the struggling bovine. But hold on, what’s that? With her back to us and watching the ruckus intently, is a leopard – also drawn by the noise and promise of a meal. Then all hell breaks loose – the lion arrives, full of piss and brandy, and the leopard bolts, as do the hyenas after the largest collects a smack from the boss cat. Lion slaps the buffalo around before clamping down on its throat, ends the suffering. A second male lion arrives, chases off the lingering hyenas and settles down to feed – fat belly and all.

19 July 2016, 07h00
Three lions from a rival pride – we watch as the two big blonde boys take turns mating with the lady, while she switches from flirty and coy to angry slapping and guttural growling after each session.
Klaserie Sands River Camp, Klaserie Private Nature Reserve. Guide: Andre ‘AK’ Kruger

19 July 2016, 16h30
Surrounded by 18 lions near a buffalo carcass – another large pride! Some are crunching the last few ribs. Most are feral-looking young males – pushed out by the dominant males further north? We drive a few kilometres away for sundowners, displacing a large male leopard chillaxing on the same riverside rocks.

20 July 2016, 11h15
A herd of 30 elephants drinking at the waterhole in front of the lodge deck. Downing my last lime and soda, I tear myself away, load up the rental car and head out – only to spend 30 minutes waiting in the shade of a mopane grove for the same herd to move off the road. A few enormous bulls surround me and linger, tossing ear-claps in my direction now and then and kicking up dust – they seem to enjoy keeping me waiting. I don’t fancy my chances if these six-tonne behemoths pull rank on my tin can car. No worries, no rush. Eventually, they move off, and so do I, on to the next adventure.

lion-buffalo-carcass — A buffalo feast fit for a king in Klaserie Private Nature Reserve ©Simon Espley

Kruger2canyons — Simon watches elephants paying a visit to Klaserie Sands River Camp ©Simon Espley

Make your visit count

As enticing as the wilderness can be, no matter where my travels take me, I always try to connect with local people as they go about their daily lives. I enjoy visiting people in their villages and homes – obviously with their permission. And so, on my Kruger to Canyons safari, I spent time with Prince Nkuma, the manager of Shik Shack. This organisation arranges community tours and Nourish, an upliftment project with a strong wildlife focus for community children.

Prince is a gem, and his fascinating insight into how the local folk relate to wildlife and poaching had me captivated for hours as we strolled around Sigagula, his hometown on the Orpen Road approach to Kruger. We even hired a donkey cart to visit local homes to taste homemade peanut butter, umqombothi (local beer made from maize), and to visit a sangoma (traditional medicine man) who threw bones to look into my soul. We also visited a home to attend a short dance and eat a humble meal consisting of fried chicken, morogo (wild spinach), roasted groundnuts and pap (a soft starch dish made from corn/maize). Dancing was performed by young girls who were all smiles in pursuing this passion.

If you’re ever in the area, I encourage you to support this and similar causes with your patronage and donations. The Kruger to Canyons area is dotted with cultural villages, farms, curio markets and community-run restaurants that are well worth your support.

Birding and Blyde

The Kruger to Canyons Biosphere houses three significant biomes, which means that it’s not only the bushveld that attracts animals and tourists to the area, but the forests and mountainous regions found around Hoedspruit are also well worth exploring. On my final days in the area, I went up Mariepskop – one of the highest peaks in the northern Drakensberg – with a community guide to go birding, but we had thick mist, so I only took a few pictures and some video footage.

Marieskop is unique in that it is home to over 2,000 plant species and, with the Kruger to Canyons region holding up to 75% of all terrestrial bird species and 80% of all raptor species found in South Africa, it is one of the best places in the world for twitchers. I also flew like a bird myself in a microlight flight with Leading Edge Flight School over the canyon and took in the spectacular views of a place that earns its name as the Panorama Route.

mariepskop-birdwatching-simon-espley — Birding in Mariepskop with Abednigo ‘Bedneck’ Maibela ©Simon Espley

A few weeks later Africa Geographic’s general manager (at the time), Janine Avery, also explored the rKruger to Canyons area. Here is an extract from her travel diary from her day out in paradise.

Panorama Route. Guide: Hans Swart

10 August 2016
Gazing out onto the natural formation of the three rondavels, named so because of their hut-like appearance, I can’t think of a better place to spend my birthday. The world’s third-largest canyon falls at my feet and, despite a simmering haze and the harsh drought that has ripped the colour from the landscape, I still feel a sense of awe. A boat putters along the Blyde River below me as my enthusiastic guide regales us with tales of adventures, discovery, gold miners, pilgrims and a small town that had electricity before the streets of London – a town that I am promised serves the best Mampoer milkshakes and to which I look forward to indulging in later. Off to my left a Google’s Street View Trekker with a unique contraption on his back, which resembles a soccer ball housing multiple cameras, dances alongside a villager selling curios. Her deep and bellowing “Shap, Shap” is echoed by his American accented version and his clumsy footing as he attempts a bootie wiggle that can’t compete with hers. Their fun-loving antics tear my attention away from the majestic views as I stroll over to add yet another culture to the mix…

Simon continues…

Where to stay in the Kruger to Canyons area

Makanyi Lodge, Timbavati Private Nature Reserve

Makanyi Lodge is an extremely luxurious lodge set in south Timbavati, with excellent game viewing throughout the year. Every attention to detail has been considered, and every comfort provided. The outside shower is probably the best of many I have enjoyed, thanks to its views over the nearby waterhole. I departed knowing that I needed to bring my wife here on my next visit, as she is very inclined towards safari chic.
Food and service were top drawer, as was the guiding. I shared game drives with a mad bunch who had adopted our guide Warren Jacobs, renaming him Woza, and the hilarious banter blended with the unparalleled wildlife viewing!

Relaxed pool deck vibes at Makanyi Lodge ©Simon Espley

Tanda Tula, Timbavati Private Nature Reserve

Tanda Tula consists of an exclusive lodge and a seasonal tented camp in the heart of the Timbavati Game Reserve, part of the Greater Kruger. Spending a night in a starbed rising your safari – sleeping high up on a wooden platform while being serenaded by lions, hyenas, Verreaux’s eagle owls and ground hornbills – features high on my list of incredible experiences that I have had in Africa. Their Field Camp is also one of the unique experiences found in the Greater Kruger area – an authentic glamping experience.

tanda-tula-safari-camp — Make the most of the Timbavati at Tanda Tula’s Safari Camp ©Tanda Tula

Umlani Bushcamp, Timbavati Private Nature Reserve

Umlani Bushcamp is another Timbavati classic. Your safari in a rustic rondavel at Umlani will feel like a family affair, thanks to hearty communal meals served under the African sky. This down-to-earth safari camp runs mainly on solar power, and you’ll be made to feel at home in no time at all.

Outside the Greater Kruger?

Many people choose accommodation outside the Greater Kruger boundary and enter the park each day for game drives, either in their own vehicle or with a guide. I was lucky enough to spend a night at some of these lodgings.

Wild Olive Tree Camp

Wild Olive Tree Camp is a rustic and affordable community-owned tented camp a few kilometres from Kruger’s Orpen Gate and a few hundred metres from the gate to Manyeleti Game Reserve. It’s a basic but charming camp for independent travellers. The Wild Olive team arrange game drives into the park or reserve if you don’t have your own wheels. The camp runs on solar power and gas showers, with battery charging at reception. The tents will probably get very hot during the day in the summer months (when you would probably be out and about), but during my visit in mid-winter, they were just right. Meals are served in a communal dining tent, and service was excellent, and the smiles wide. This new community endeavour is well worth supporting.

Blyde Canyon, a Forever Resort

Blyde Canyon, a Forever Resort, is one of the only accommodation offerings in the canyon itself, and its views of the Three Rondavels are even better than at the main tourist viewpoints. The resort is the ideal overnight stop for guests exploring the Panorama Route before venturing into Hoedspruit and heading towards Kruger. The accommodation offerings are also expansive, with camping and caravan options and large self-catering units that appeal to families. With a putt-putt course, trampolines and a large pool on site, the little ones will be entertained while you try to protect your braai from the cavorting troupes of vervet monkeys.

Unembeza Boutique Lodge

This popular lodge is located within the Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate – a stunning location that places you on the doorstep to the town and its variety of exquisite eateries, while still providing the feeling that you are in the bush with resident warthogs, kudus and bushbucks running around. Unembeza provides the perfect base from which to explore the surrounding area. The lodge management is always around to offer advice and assistance with your day’s plans without intruding to the privacy and peace of quiet the lodge offers. The affordable rooms are a breath of fresh bush air, and each suite is decorated with class and simplicity.

kruger-unembeza — Enjoy the sleek setting of Unembeza Boutique Lodge ©Unembeza Boutique Lodge

Go on a two-wheeled safari at Unembeza Boutique Lodge in the Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate ©Unembeza Boutique Lodge

About the author

Simon Espley is an African of the digital tribe, a chartered accountant and CEO of Africa Geographic.
He is a seasoned African traveller – walking, driving, boating, cycling, horse riding and flying his way in pursuit of true wilderness and elusive birds.

Simon’s love of mountain biking took him to Hoedspruit to participate in the annual Kruger2Canyons mountain bike tour, so it made sense for him to explore this region on his own two feet and on two wheels.

More dogs for Kruger’s canine unit

For most visitors, the deep grumble of a lion roaring or the high-pitched whooping of hyenas epitomise the nightly noises of Kruger National Park. But on my recent trip to Kruger, it wasn’t these iconic sounds that woke me up in the dead of night; it was the synchronised howl of four domestic dogs – members of the canine unit.

bloodhound-kruger — A bloodhound/doberman cross ready for his close up.

I was privileged enough to spend the night away from the tourist camps at Kruger’s newest addition – the K9 Centre. Those four howling dogs were young bloodhound/doberman crosses, excited at the prospect of their future working life in South Africa’s premier national park.

new-dogs-kruger-canine-unit — The four new dogs alongside side their handlers with dog trainer Gaven Holden-Smith and kennel master Johan De Beer. Handlers’ faces are blurred to protect their identity.

The dogs, now just over a year old, have been brought up as working tracking dogs and having just finished their training at the centre, they were ready to be handed over to their respective section rangers to get to work. I was at the centre to see the great work being done behind the scenes to get these dogs out and working in Kruger. The canine unit is now a vital component in the war against poaching. These dogs join a formidable team of attack dogs, contraband detection sniffer dogs and other tracking dogs like themselves.

canine-unit-bloodhound — A handler sits alongside Kilalo – the latest addition to Kruger’s canine unit. The handler’s face is blurred to protect his own identity.

They were trained by the capable Gaven Holden-Smith of Holden-Smith Tracking and Conservation and donated to Kruger thanks to funding from Star Project in San Francisco and Wuppertal Zooverein in Germany.

But the truth is it is not all cute and cuddly puppies or dramatic grenade launchers and helicopters in the world of anti-poaching. Sometimes it is the day to day stuff that these organisations need. Hence why, on the day of the dog handover, the K9 Centre also received donations of a high-pressure cleaner from Karcher, LED spotlights for the section rangers from MSC LED Lighting Solutions, alongside chains, harnesses, bite suits, mattresses, grooming brushes, transport boxes, dog bowls, materials for new kennels and Hills dog food all organised by various regions of the SANParks Honorary Rangers.

Members of the SANParks Honorary Rangers at the hand over ceremony. — Members of the SANParks Honorary Rangers at the handover ceremony.

safari-guide-of-the-year — Safari Guide of the Year, Jaco Buys, with Badger – a beloved tracking dog.

But perhaps the most interesting initiative that stood out for me was one pioneered by Casterbridge Animal Hospital in association with the Lowveld Region of the SANParks Honorary Rangers and the Wuppertal Zooverein. The initiative involves training each handler on basic dog first aid so they are able to care for and attend to their dog while hot on the heels of poachers. What this means is that should these four brand new additions to the canine unit be bitten by a snake, lacerate a paw or get dehydrated while deep in the bush, we can all rest easy knowing that we won’t lose a dog to save a rhino.

med-aid-for-dogs — Veterinary nurse Elzabe de Bruyn hands over the trauma kits to SANParks

Thus far, 22 trauma kits have been handed over to the handlers who have received this doggie first aid training, and the K9 Centre also has its master trauma kit. But it doesn’t end there – the aim is now to compile more comprehensive kits for the section rangers, and the Honorary Rangers are even looking to buy/obtain a container which they can convert into a mobile vet clinic, complete with anaesthesia machine, operating table and the like. But this all costs money, or those with access to this equipment give donations. And this, my fellow puppy-lovers, is where you come in! Have a way to help? Want to donate to the K9 Centre by way of cash or equipment? Then be sure to email Grant Coleman, chairman of the Lowveld Region of the SANParks Honorary Rangers, and do your part to support the canines of Kruger!

kennels-canine-unit — New kennels at the K9 Centre keep the dogs safe and sound at night in leopard country!

Book Review: Elephant Dawn by Sharon Pincott

Now and then, a book breaks through the wallpaper of my life and delivers its message intravenously. Elephant Dawn by Sharon Pincott did that for me – an intense, inspiring, and moving read.

Sharon Pincott made the life-changing decision in 2001 to forgo her jet-setting job and comfortable Australian home to make a difference in the world. Having sold her possessions, and later her home, to fund this project, she arrived in Zimbabwe during a tumultuous time in this country’s history – to spend time with a herd of elephants that in 1990 was granted protection under President Mugabe’s decree.

These wild elephants roam over a large, unfenced area that includes the magnificent Hwange National Park and the adjacent Hwange Estate. The presidential protection turned out to be a paper tiger, and to this day, the elephants face the same threats that elephants face all over Africa – primarily poachers and trophy hunters – exacerbated and fuelled by Mugabe’s controversial and destructive land reform programme.

This book is not your classic African safari story; it chronicles Pincott’s roller-coaster journey and follows the lives of several of the matriarchs she got to know.

Over an incredible 13 years, this tough-as-teak lady developed a valuable understanding of all 17 extended family groups that make up the greater 500-strong herd. She also became the public figurehead of this herd in their battle against the deadly intentions of the poachers and trophy hunters. Her deeply personal bond with some of the matriarchs (who would come running when she called) struck a chord with me, although the touching and caressing of some of the elephants would surely have attracted criticism from many.

And yet, here we are – Zimbabwe’s Presidential Herd of elephants is now famous and under intense international scrutiny. Job done. Well, partly. Will Zimbabwe take advantage of this marketing godsend and capitalise on high levels of safari tourism interest? Time will tell.

Sharon Pincott is, at the time of writing, currently back in Australia, taking a break from the pressures of the intensely political world of wildlife conservation. Hopefully, her energy and passion will not be lost to Africa, and she will soon return. Again, time will tell.

Elephant Dawn by Sharon Pincott is available on amazon.com.

Rhino horn?

A chainsaw sputters to life, and its loud hum fills the air. Two black rhinos – a mother and her calf – lie helplessly on the ground. They tremble a bit, though never move from where they have fallen. A helicopter takes off and buzzes above us before speeding away, its heavy blades chopping through the sky. The mother is an exemplary rhino; her primary horn is long and curved like a crescent moon, and her secondary horn is tall and straight, almost matching the first horn in length.

Today, both the mother and the calf will lose their horns because of rhino poaching. There are, however, two crucial factors that affect today’s outcome. The first is that the rhinos will walk away from this experience with their lives and the second is that the process is performed by a highly-skilled wildlife veterinarian and an accompanying team of conservation professionals – the very people who dedicate their careers and lives to protecting these animals. The Zululand Rhino Reserve (ZRR), located in northern KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa, is in the midst of the process of dehorning all of its rhinos. The reserve is not alone in this decision and rhinos all over the country are having their horns removed by the very humans who are trying to protect them.

two-rhinos-peter-chadwick — A white rhino mother and calf run through an open area before being darted from the air to begin the dehorning process ©Peter Chadwick

rhino-helicopter-peter-chadwick — A helicopter hovers close to a white rhino that has just been darted from the air by a qualified veterinarian ©Peter Chadwick

rhino-long-horn-peter-chadwick — A large white rhino cow, which has had her eyes covered for protection, begins to settle as the sedating drugs take effect ©Peter Chadwick

Where to start

The chainsaw’s blade starts to whir and plunges into the rhino’s horn. It cuts loudly and steadily through the thick horn, and suddenly, under the Zululand sun, it begins to rain rhino horn dust. A large tarpaulin is draped on the ground under the rhino’s head to catch all of the shavings, as even the smallest amount of horn holds value in the illegal rhino horn market. As the blade continues to carve its course through the horn, I flinch and look away, nervous that the cut is too deep. But it is not. The cut is perfectly executed and just nicks the growth plate. The wildlife veterinarian, Dr Mike Toft, is not new to this practice. To date, he has personally dehorned almost 200 rhinos in the greater Zululand area. Mike wields the chainsaw like a practised artisan and expertly cuts around the base of the horn towards the growth plate, which rises in the middle like a small mound.

After the cutting is finished, he uses an angle grinder, explicitly designed for keratin, to grind down as far as he can. Small drops of blood begin to form on the base of the horn. “That’s how you know you’ve gone far enough,” Mike assures us. Previous dehorning methods made only the initial cut, leaving a large chunk of horn mass sitting around the growth plate at the base of the rhino’s horn. Recently Mike cut an additional 2.1 kilogrammes of rhino horn off of a large white rhino after the first cut. With 2.1 kilogrammes of rhino horn translating to approximately US$275,000 on the black market, he is undoubtedly correct when he explains, “that’s why rhino dehorning was not considered successful in the past – there was still enough horn left to tempt poachers.”

cutting-off-rhino-horn-peter-chadwick — A front horn is carefully removed with the aid of a chainsaw ©Peter Chadwick

cutting-rhino-horn-with-chainsaw-peter-chadwick — A back horn is carefully removed with the help of a chainsaw ©Peter Chadwick

The secondary horn is cut just as close, and then the horns are removed from the calf. All the while the ground team works hard, taking blood, skin and hair samples for DNA, recording ear notches and identification numbers, and photographing the animals for records. Mike simultaneously monitors their condition while dehorning the rhinos. They have been darted from a helicopter with a cocktail drug containing an immobiliser, a tranquilliser and an enzyme to ensure rapid absorption. The immobilising drug causes a surge of adrenaline, which accounts for much of the trembling. The entire process is quick and professional.

“It’s not gentle, but it is effective,” according to Mike.

Although that is the case, many rhino lovers still find the process traumatic to watch. Rangers and onlookers choke back tears and soldier on with the task at hand. The dehorning of these two rhinos has been sponsored by a generous donor from the United States, who accompanies us today. Before the rhinos are woken up, he kneels and places his hand on the calf’s small body and takes a silent moment. There are so many things a person desires to communicate to a rhino in this circumstance: compassion, assurance, sorrow, frustration, solidarity. Instead, the team works quickly and calmly, accomplishing what they believe is necessary to protect their rhinos.

injecting-rhino-peter-chadwick — Each darted rhino is given a long-lasting antibiotic in the spot where the dart penetrated ©Peter Chadwick

cutting-closely-rhino-horn-peter-chadwick — Once the horns have been removed with a chainsaw, the stumps are carefully ground with an angle grinder to remove any remaining horn ©Peter Chadwick

blood-samples-rhino-peter-chadwick — Blood samples are taken for DNA sampling from each sedated rhino ©Peter Chadwick

The veterinarian administers a reversal drug to the mother and calf. Within minutes they are both on their feet, huffing and puffing. They charge off into the bush seemingly unaffected albeit a few kilogrammes lighter. The quick return to normalcy is reassuring, and the team proceeds with a sense of accomplishment and purpose. Our next targets have been identified by rangers in the field, and the ground team’s vehicles rush off to meet the helicopter, which is quickly making its way to dart the identified rhinos. The second set of rhinos is another mother-calf pair, but this time of white rhinos. Again, the mother is remarkably beautiful – an older female with an impressively sizeable primary horn. With a horn of this size, it is only due to the hard work of the anti-poaching team in the ZRR that she is still alive. Removing it is demoralising. “It’s devastating to have to deface a rhino because of human greed,” notes Karen Holmes, the general manager of the ZRR.

A crossroads in conservation

We are at a critical moment in rhino conservation. While overall the population of both black and white rhinos in Africa is still growing, we are getting incrementally closer every year to that crucial tipping point where poaching pressure exceeds population growth. From there, it’s a slippery slope to extinction. Many subpopulations have reached that point already. In 2015 alone, over 1,300 rhinos were poached in Africa. Those on the frontlines protecting our rhinos are battle-weary, and the demand for rhino horn shows no sign of relenting. Rangers, managers and owners are desperate for help to stop the ongoing slaughter.

The solution that many are currently turning to is the removal of rhino horns. Dehorning has become commonplace mostly because it is working. Removing the horns is effective at decreasing the reward for poachers’ efforts. Alternative solutions, like poisoning of rhino horn, have proved ineffective, and anti-poaching activities alone are not enough.

A partially sedated white rhino’s pupils begin to dilate before they are covered with a cloth to protect them from damage ©Peter Chadwick

blindfolded-rhino-peter-chadwick — The dehorning process is professionally managed at all times and is carried out to reduce the impacts of poaching on the animals. Although the horns do grow back in time, it is hoped that the dehorning will buy time to find longer-lasting solutions to the current poaching war. ©Peter Chadwick

The issues to consider

It may seem an obvious solution, but from a reserve’s point of view, the decision is never easy. There are logistical, financial and ethical issues with which to grapple when considering rhino dehorning. Dehorning is not a cure-all solution. Rhino horn grows back rapidly and, within about a year and a half, the horn on a young rhino is usually big enough to tempt poachers again. The effectiveness of dehorning is, therefore, temporary and the process must be repeated to continue to be a deterrent. Each dehorning procedure is costly, especially with veterinarian and helicopter fees to factor in. Some reserves are simply too big to be able to dehorn all of their rhinos, and there are also concerns that removing horns will negatively impact tourism.

Yet even when logistics and finances are managed, the number one consideration for whether or not to dehorn rhinos is always the potential effect on the rhinos themselves. Removing the horn from a rhino feels like a gross violation of nature. Evolution favours exaggerated traits, like the rhino’s horn, if there is a strong selective pressure for it to do so. Rhinos use their horns for territorial defence and dominance struggles, to assist in foraging, to protect their young from predators, in courtship, and possibly in mate selection. The knock-on effects of dehorning rhinos could, therefore, slow species growth rate. At an evolutionary scale, it’s a heavy price to pay to protect a species.

blindfolded-dehorned-rhino-peter-chadwick — A dehorned white rhino with a protective cloth covering its eyes just before being awoken from sedation ©Peter Chadwick

blindfolded-rhino-without-horn-peter-chadwick — The chaos of the dehorning scene, with an oxygen cylinder close at hand to assist with the easy breathing of the sedated rhino ©Peter Chadwick

dehorned-rhino-peter-chadwick — A white rhino bull begins to awake after sedation. The area where his horns were removed has been carefully sprayed with a purple coloured antiseptic. This colour will disappear in a few days. ©Peter Chadwick

Zululand Rhino Reserve make their decision

The Zululand Rhino Reserve was formed in 2004 as part of the WWF Black Rhino Range Expansion Programme, comprised of a consortium of private landowners with varying interests, and decisions are made by a board of directors on Karen’s recommendations. When the ZRR’s board sat down to debate the choice of dehorning rhinos, many of the reserves around them had already instituted dehorning programmes. Like a horrible game of dominos, poaching pressure passes to the next population.

The vast majority of the reserve’s budget was already being spent on anti-poaching efforts to protect their rhinos. While these efforts had been mostly successful in the reserve, it continued to have poaching incursions regularly. Karen, having researched the pros and cons of dehorning, presented her recommendation to dehorn the ZRR’s rhinos with tears in her eyes, explaining how “it felt like we were admitting defeat.” The board’s vote was not unanimous, but the majority voted in favour of dehorning.

rhino-with-detached-horn — A white rhino that has just been dehorned with earplugs and a protective cloth covering its eyes ©Peter Chadwick

The legalisation of the trade in rhino horn

An unfortunate bedfellow to dehorning as a conservation strategy is the issue of legalisation of the trade in rhino horn, another hotly debated topic. When one of the ZRR’s neighbours went public with the announcement that they had instituted a dehorning programme, they were both praised and criticised. There were allegations that they had failed to protect their rhinos, hadn’t adequately considered alternatives, and worst of all, that the programme was a scam designed to harvest and bank rhino horn. These are stinging accusations for people who regularly risk their own lives in the line of duty and spend millions on protecting rhinos. While the company behind the reserve has publicly confirmed that they would be in favour of a legalised trade in rhino horn, this did not factor into their conservation manager’s analysis and recommendations for implementing a dehorning programme. His decision was made because they were doing everything they could on the ground but still struggling to keep rhinos alive.

Wildlands Conservation Trust, an NGO that runs community-owned Somkhanda Game Reserve (located a short distance north of the ZRR) is decidedly against the legalisation of the trade in rhino horn. They still decided to dehorn Somkhanda’s rhino population. As Kevin McCann, the Deputy Director of WCT succinctly puts it: “We decided we’d rather have rhino alive without horns than dead.”

Regardless of which side of the debate individuals or organisations fall on, the crux of the situation is that the international trade in rhino horn is currently illegal and that CITES is unlikely to legalise the trade. There’s no doubt that there are a few unscrupulous individuals who are dehorning rhinos and wagering on trade legalisation, but these are the minority. The vast majority implementing rhino dehorning programmes are doing so with the safety of the rhinos and the people protecting them in mind.

drilling-rhino-horn-peter-chadwick — Each removed horn is measured, weighed and logged, and DNA samples are collected for future ease of tracking ©Peter Chadwick

rhino-horn-shavings-peter-chadwick — Horn shavings from the dehorning exercise are carefully collected, bagged and removed from the site – together with the horns and in accordance with legislative requirements. ©Peter Chadwick

The future

On our sixth dehorning of the day, as the secondary horn is cut off a young male white rhino, it bounces towards me on the tarpaulin. I pick it up, and it fits perfectly into the palm of my hand. How absurd that this inert lump is worth more than its weight in gold on the black market. It is not a cure for anything. It is essentially the world’s most expensive placebo. This culturally-created placebo effect results in a substance with such astronomical worth that it is valued above the life of an animal, above human lives and above the obliteration of a species. I toss it back on the tarpaulin. In my eyes, it is worthless now that it has been removed from the rhino. The day wears on, and we dehorn nine rhinos in total. It is a full day’s work, and the physical and emotional exhaustion is evident on everyone’s faces.

The ZRR will continue with its dehorning programme and remove the horns from all the rhinos in the reserve. It is a colossal undertaking and a heavy responsibility to protect a population of rhinos. The relief, though temporary, must be tremendous. The next years will be critical in evaluating the success of dehorning programmes, as poaching and population growth rates are closely monitored.

Due to the security risk, any horns that are removed during dehorning programmes are immediately taken off the property and moved to a secure undisclosed location and stored in accordance with South African law.

On our drive back to camp we pass a dehorned female rhino grazing. She does not have a horn, but she is still a rhino and, most importantly, she is still alive.

Perhaps in the future, there will be a time when a rhino’s horn does not dictate its likelihood to live or die, but not today. Today there are nine fewer rhinos that will die at a poacher’s hands.

rangers-with-dehorned-rhinos-peter-chadwick — Dr Mike Toft makes a final check on a white rhino mother and calf before administering the antidote that will awaken the two animals from sedation ©Peter Chadwick

two-dehorned-rhinos-peter-chadwick — Two white rhinos that have recently had their horns removed wander off into the surrounding bushveld ©Peter Chadwick

rhino-and-ranger-peter-chadwick — Dr Mike Toft carefully monitors the sedated rhinos throughout the dehorning procedure, providing the highest level of professional care ©Peter Chadwick

About the photographer

All images ©Peter Chadwick. Peter Chadwick is an internationally recognised award-winning photographer.
He specialises in photographing and writing about conservation and environmental issues on the African continent. Peter is a Fellow of the International League of Conservation Photographers.

Shannon Airton is an American expat living in South Africa. She has a Bachelor’s degree in Ecology, Behaviour and Evolution and a Master’s degree in Biological Anthropology. A conservation biologist by training, she has worked in Zululand researching rhinos, wild dogs and leopards for the last 14 years.

She has recently made the decision to give up the rather rough and nomadic life of a researcher to raise her two-year-old son and help run the family business, Rhino River Lodge, in the Zululand Rhino Reserve. Following her passion for conservation biology, her writing focuses on bringing important conservation issues to a public audience.

Sustainable utilisation of wildlife not so sustainable

A comprehensive new review of the threats facing global biodiversity indicates that a popular approach to saving the planet’s wild animals from extinction may be fatally flawed. Written by: Andreas Wilson-Späth

‘Sustainable utilisation’ is a catchphrase that is as fashionable in wildlife conservation circles as it is controversial. In essence, it suggests that natural resources – in this instance, wild animals – can be ‘harvested’ in a way that will not endanger the continued survival of the species in question. Furthermore, proponents argue that this form of commercial exploitation is a legitimate (some would say the only) way to raise the money required to fund conservation measures.

This philosophy of sustainable utilisation is central to the South African government’s wildlife conservation policy. It underpins claims by the hunting fraternity that killing animals for sport contributes to their conservation, and it forms the basis for arguments that legalising the international trade in products such as elephant ivory and rhino horns will reduce poaching.

New research shows that the belief that humans are capable of using wild animals in this fashion without ultimately causing their demise may be misplaced. In the article, published in the prestigious journal Nature this month, a group of conservation scientists assess the factors that are driving wild species towards extinction. They identify overexploitation, including hunting, as the biggest threat.

The authors analysed the threat information for 8,688 ‘threatened’ and ‘near-threatened’ species contained in the International Union for Conservation of Nature’s (IUCN) Red List of Threatened Species. They found that climate change, pollution, invasive species, urbanisation and agricultural activities present some of the most serious dangers to these species.

The single biggest threat, however, is overexploitation, defined as “the harvesting of species from the wild at rates that cannot be compensated for by reproduction or regrowth”. This affects 6,241 of the species considered. After logging (the survey includes both plants and animals), the researchers show that hunting is the second most perilous subset of threat factors within the category of overexploitation. Hunting impacts detrimentally on 1,680 species. That’s almost exactly the same number of species as are affected by global climate change.

Pointing out that the threats to endangered species are likely to remain as populations grow and human development continues at full pace, the authors of the paper warn that “of all the plant, amphibian, reptile, bird and mammal species that have gone extinct since AD1500, 75% were harmed by overexploitation or agricultural activity or both”.

According to one of them, Sean Maxwell of the University of Queensland in Australia, addressing these two major threat factors “must be at the forefront of the conservation agenda”, this being “key to turning around the biodiversity extinction crisis”.

As the 17th meeting of the Conference of the Parties to the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) in Johannesburg draws near, these new findings should inform the critical debate around a joint proposal to legalise the trade in ivory submitted to the meeting by South Africa, Namibia and Zimbabwe.

In direct opposition to the 29 Central, West and East African nations that make up the core of the African Elephant Coalition, the three Southern African countries want to be allowed to sell ivory from their national stockpiles on a legalised international market. Citing the need to raise capital for conservation measures and poverty relief, they assert their right to sustainably utilise their wild animal resources. But the new findings identifying overexploitation as the most serious threat to thousands of species cast serious doubt on the validity and wisdom of this approach.

And the Nature article isn’t the only recent document that should give us pause when considering so-called sustainable utilisation as an effective conservation philosophy. In July a large group of international scientists, including representatives from South Africa, came together to pen a declaration to save the world’s terrestrial megafauna.

This is especially relevant to the current debate since sub-Saharan Africa has the planet’s greatest diversity in megafauna, from elephants, gorillas and large cats, to hippos, rhinos, giraffes, buffalos and more.

Noting that 59% of the world’s largest carnivores and 60% of its largest herbivores are now classified as threatened with extinction on the IUCN Red List, the authors of the declaration highlight the fact that among other factors, “the current depletion of megafauna is also due to overhunting and persecution: shooting, snaring, and poisoning by humans ranging from individuals to governments, as well as by organised criminals and terrorists”.

They warn that “under a business-as-usual scenario, conservation scientists will soon be busy writing obituaries for species and subspecies of megafauna as they vanish from the planet. In fact, this process is already underway…”

In the face of growing evidence from researchers working in the field that overexploitation represents the preeminent threat to the survival of many endangered species of wildlife, proposals for sustainable utilisation need to be examined with extreme care.

By turning wild creatures into commodities, financial incentives reinforced by market mechanisms are at risk of undermining the conservation prerogative that should form the foundation of this discussion.

Proponents of so-called sustainable utilisation in wildlife conservation often argue that wild animals have to “start paying for themselves” – an attitude that their critics find uncomfortably close to the dictum, “if it pays, it stays”. The latter are particularly concerned about what happens “if it doesn’t pay”, wondering whether wild animals don’t, in fact, have an intrinsic right to inhabit their indigenous habitats without the risk of being sustainably exploited to extinction for the benefit of humans.

Given the fact that our overexploitation of wildlife has been identified as one of the biggest, if not the biggest, causes of the current crisis in which many species may not make it to the end of this century, it is high time that we join the authors of the declaration to save the world’s terrestrial megafauna by stating that we “affirm an abiding moral obligation to protect the Earth’s megafauna” along with all other threatened plant and animal species

I can’t afford to volunteer in my own country

After four splendid years of studying conservation, I received my BTech degree cum laude in nature conservation. I was now ready to make a difference and plough my way into this difficult industry, but I was in for a big surprise. By volunteering, others may have affected my career opportunities. Written by: Zandri Benade

fence-maintenance-jarrett-joubert — Volunteers maintain fences ©Jarrett Joubert

After my studies came to an end, I started to do research on how to become a more desirable candidate within my industry. Volunteering to gain field experience came out top in most of the articles that I read, and this came as no surprise. I started researching wildlife volunteering in South Africa, which led me to my discovery that conservation experiences and wildlife research has become an industry for rich (by my standards) foreigners and not young local scientists like me.

I visited various websites claiming to help you to “start your career in conservation” by joining their various volunteer programmes, of which the itineraries were absolutely fabulous for a young graduate like me! The only problem, aside from having to leach money off my parents for yet another year of unpaid work, was that these programmes were expecting me to also pay ridiculous amounts of money for lavish accommodation and unnecessary sightseeing. Starting anywhere from ZAR90,000 for 24 weeks, I soon came to realise that I was simply not wealthy enough to take part in these fantastic programmes. To put that into perspective, ZAR90,000 equates to roughly four years of conservation class fees.

alien-vegetation-clearing-jarrett-joubert — Volunteers work to clear alien vegetation ©Jarrett Joubert

One can argue that these programmes are designed with tourists in mind and that they would be cheaper had they been set up for locals. But this is exactly where it becomes quite problematic. Many game reserves benefit from volunteer programmes, as the enterprises that run these programmes often provide their beneficial conservation services for free or at a small price. They thus acquire all the necessary funding to run their programmes from the volunteers themselves. So essentially it is a win-win situation for both organisations – but with dire consequences for young graduates in a country with one of the highest unemployment rates in the world.

In my opinion, the lack of affordable volunteering opportunities for locals could lead to a loss of local knowledge and could complicate career growth amongst educated youth in our country, as foreign volunteers gain valuable experience that they take back to their home country with them.

My future in conservation remains uncertain but I refuse to give up, and I hope that the value of local educated youth will be realised and that we will be given the opportunity to once again become the movers and shakers in the preservation of our own natural heritage.

Poaching along the Okavango River

Elephants in the newly proclaimed Luenge-Luiana National Park in Angola recovered well from over an entire generation of war that this country has endured. This area, previously UNITA occupied, has had time to adjust, and the proclamation of the park in May 2012 was a welcome surprise. But what about poaching? Written by: Mark Paxton

For many of us, this had shown that the KAZA concept could now finally actually be gaining ground, and we were all looking forward to this over nine million hectare park being managed as the star park in Angola. But alas, this seems not to have been the case, and interference from uncontrolled human settlements along the Cuito River boundary has resulted in escalating large-scale poaching incidents in the neighbouring park, targeting mostly the elephants.

poaching-okavango — One of three poached elephant near the Cuito/Okavango river confluence and within the Luengue-Luiana National Park.

Two years ago, for the first time in decades, we saw elephants on the banks of the Okavango River in the Shamvura area where I live. Everybody in the area saw this as a positive and encouraging sign, but I was sceptical. I have been involved in conservation and park management all my life, so I could see this was a sign that the elephants in the park’s interior were being persecuted. As a result of this pressure, I could understand that they were forced to seek refuge and sanctuary further south towards the Okavango River areas, which previously they would only visit occasionally.

It was one of these pressured groups of between 20 and 40 animals that were attacked by poachers in the Kashira area recently. The incident happened at around 17h00 on Saturday, 23rd July, and was first reported to me by my staff and then by our nearest neighbours. I then received a call and was asked how to deal with this incident. I immediately contacted several top senior members of Nampol (the Namibian Police Service), MEFT (The Namibian Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism) and then the regional commander of the Angolan Border Police in the Cuando/Cubango Province, Commander Mino. I also alerted several media contacts and, through other contacts, the Cuando/Cubango province governor and the National Director of the Ministry of Ambiente in Angola.

Yet, despite this prompt and widespread reporting to multiple authorities from both countries, it was only the following day that the scene was investigated. They found carcasses of the slaughtered elephants with the tusks removed. Two other wounded animals were tracked but not found. The tusks from the slain animal had been transported that night over the river into Namibia, where the authorities are apparently trying to trace the tusks and poachers.

elephant-poached — A mixed group of officials from Angola and Namibia investigate the elephant poaching incident.

This is not the first poaching incident I reported in this park. In the last four years, I have reported four hippo and four crocodile poaching incidents, as well as many incidents of elephant and other wildlife meat being sold on the Namibian side of the river.

hippo-poaching-okavango — Dead hippo killed by gunshots being dragged in for investigation

The river area is also constantly under threat from illegal fishermen and commercial fishing operations using numerous large nets on Angolan Government boats, apparently with the knowledge and permission of the administrator from Ndirico in Angola.

illegal-fishing-okavango — A boat full of confiscated nets after a combined Namibia/Angolan river patrol.

For years, the Fisheries Inspectors and MEFT Officials have refused to react to these reports, claiming that when Angolans are involved and any activity on the Angolan river bank is reported, they are not entitled to follow up and prosecute. I’ve become quite accustomed to the well-known excuse of “our hands are tied.”

fishing — A heap of fish recently caught and ready to put out to dry.

Strangely, Nampol does not use that excuse, and I have managed many successful anti-poaching river patrols with the Nampol Border Police at Evero Border Post nearby. Several recent meetings with Angolan authorities confirm that they are only too willing to help but have never been approached to do so. I continue to get excellent help from Nampol, which has no problems involving their Angolan counterparts.

The poaching activities along this park’s southern border are beginning to severely impact the Namibian tourism sector along the Okavango River. One of the recent hippo poaching incidents reported in this area occurred during an international fishing competition that was held on the river. Several boats were in the immediate vicinity where the incident took place and found themselves in the way of flying bullets, forcing them to immediately leave the area for fear of being shot. Obviously, word of the experience has spread, which does not do the area any good.

I understand that the Luenge-Luiana National Park has established a Rangers Corp within the park, which has a relatively well-equipped base station. I also understand that they are under-equipped and need some support and training before they can be as effective as they should be. I chair the Namibian Chapter of the GRAA (Game Rangers Association of Africa), and we are hoping to get involved in Angola with our next AGM being there. We hope that, with our resources, we may well be able to offer the necessary assistance to give this park much-needed professional support.

Why you should vote to stop trade in African grey parrots

So a car is rolling down a hill, at the bottom of which is a cliff and a 400-metre sheer drop to rocks below, and inside the car is a guy enjoying a steaming mug of coffee. He is concerned that the car seems to be picking up speed and heading towards certain destruction. He has considered pulling up the handbrake to stop the car and prevent disaster. But that would also spill his coffee, which he does not want to do. And so he continues sipping and rolling down that hill. What does this have to do with grey parrots?

CITES is that man sipping the coffee. They know that they need to pull up that handbrake and prevent certain disaster (grey parrot extinction in the wild). But by doing so, they will spill some coffee (the many legal and illegal traders, politicians and breeding factory owners who rely on the trade of wild-caught grey parrots for their livelihoods and, in some cases, their vast fortunes).

African grey parrots in flight in Odzala ©Dana Allen

On the table at the upcoming CITES CoP17 conference in South Africa will be the upgrading of the status of grey parrots from Appendix 2 to Appendix 1, which will mean no further trade.

This is where you come in…

I am not convinced that members of CITES have the guts to do this, to pull up that handbrake. It’s complicated, apparently. They need encouragement, coercion perhaps.

By signing the petition below, put together by the respected World Parrot Trust, you will make your voice heard. Then send this post to your friends and ask them to do the same.

If you don’t know much about the topic, read my article, Shades of Grey, or scan this startling summary:

Approximately 1.36 million wild-caught grey parrots have been exported legally since 1975, and when one factors in the 33-60% death rate during transport, the likely number of parrots actually trapped legally from the wild is probably more than 3 million birds. There is no accurate estimate for the number of illegal birds taken from the wild – but it would certainly add significantly to this offtake figure. When one considers that total wild populations have crashed to an estimated 560,000 to 12.7 million birds, this offtake figure is staggering.

captured-adult-grey-parrot-put-in-box — A captured adult grey parrot being placed in a transport box in the DRC ©TL2 Project

wild-caught-immature-grey-parrots-in-drc — Wild-caught immature grey parrots in the DRC ©TL2 Project

Message to CITES: Move the grey parrot Psittacus erithacus to Appendix I and end the trade of this globally threatened species for good.

Please sign your name, share with your friends, and help us to save thousands of wild parrots!

Make a difference and sign the petition here.

An African grey parrot in Odzala ©Dana Allen

Rwanda: into the heart of Africa

Our silver Jeep bravely struggled up and down the steep hills of the Rwanda countryside. Breathtaking views and terraced fields endlessly accompanied us on the road to the Virunga Mountains, where we hoped to encounter the endangered mountain gorillas and golden monkeys. As a wildlife photographer, I was extremely excited about the prospect of meeting two such rare species in their natural habitat.

The roads were narrow and lined with people in colourful clothing, cycling, walking, or carrying baskets full of fruit and vegetables. As we navigated our way to Musanze in the northwestern province, I was amazed by how incredibly clean the country was. There wasn’t a piece of paper or a plastic bottle in sight, even though Rwanda is Africa’s most densely populated country. I was genuinely intrigued by this, and later found out that Rwanda has a rule requiring every able citizen to help clean the streets between 8 am and midday on the last Saturday of each month.

Finally, after a spectacular journey, we arrived at the conservation office on the border of Volcanoes National Park, where we met the friendly trackers and park wardens, who went out of their way to make us feel welcome. Volcanoes National Park protects the Rwandan section of the Virunga Mountains, which forms part of a transfrontier conservation area that includes protected areas in Uganda and the DRC. It is a range of mostly dormant volcanoes that includes Rwanda’s highest point – the 4,507-metre-high Mt Karisimbi – and two active volcanoes, Mt Nyiragongo and Mt Nyamuragia.

After our introductory meeting, we made our way back along the 20-kilometre road to Musanze, which is filled with gaping potholes and people transporting enormous bags of potatoes on bicycles. Irish and sweet potatoes are grown extensively in this region, as is the fantastic pyrethrum – a small white daisy decorating the countryside across seemingly endless fields. The plant is used as a natural insecticide and exported worldwide.

rwanda-agriculture-pyrethrum — Hard-working women tend to the fields with their children in tow (left); The pretty pyrethrum (right). Both images ©Jytte Fredholm Ferreira

Meeting the mountain gorillas

After a night’s rest in a small hotel, the day of the gorilla trek arrived, and I was ecstatic. The mountain gorilla is one of the rarest species on Earth, with only approximately 1,000 left in the wild, so it is an enormous privilege to see them. Different gorilla families live in the Virungas – certain families are large, with nearly 30 individuals, while others have between 10 and 20 members.

I was fortunate to be placed in a small group with only two other people. After introductions, we drove another 20km to the trek’s starting point before tackling the last 1.5km, which involved driving over sharp volcanic rocks. I held my breath for about 20 minutes, negotiating each treacherous rock, hoping to make it to the end.

The gorilla trek into the mountains was strenuous, to say the least. A certain level of fitness is required, and I was grateful for my gym sessions. However, after three hours of hiking, our guide instructed us to leave our equipment in a small clearing and only bring along our cameras. He told us to be quiet as the gorillas were nearby. And he was right. Before we even had time to leave our bags, a young gorilla came rushing out of the foliage into the clearing, so close to me that he brushed against my pants as he scampered past. He was inquisitive and kept on moving in and out of the clearing. He seemed unsure of what to do until another juvenile arrived with a baby in tow. The two boisterous juveniles played roughly with the little baby until he was finally rescued by his mother, who had been quietly watching the spectacle from behind some bushes a little further away.

Within 10 minutes, a dominant male (silverback) arrived. At this point, the atmosphere changed. There was no question as to who the boss in this family was. We were told to remain calm as the silverback took his time to scrutinise each one of us. The tracker used various sounds to signal that we were not a threat. The family accepted our intrusion, so we were allowed a humbling look into their mysterious world.

It was, without a doubt, one of the most magical moments of my life. Coming face-to-face with a gorilla family of 18 individuals in their unique habitat is something I wish every animal lover could experience once in their lifetime. This is a mystical and spectacularly beautiful area where the gorillas live in the mist.

Monkeying around

The following day, we embarked on our golden monkey trek, which was much easier than our previous trek, and our trackers located a substantial troop of about 120 individuals. The golden monkey is endemic to the region and inhabits only a few small pockets of Rwanda and the DRC. It was an absolute privilege to encounter this rare and lovely monkey, but taking good photographs of them proved quite a challenge, as they constantly moved through the bushes and tree canopies. However, they are a whole lot of fun to watch, and I had a good laugh at their performances and games!

golden-monkey-looking-at-camera-jytte-fredholm-ferreira — Look into the eyes of a golden monkey ©Jytte Fredholm Ferreira

Grave encounters

Our third day was dedicated to visiting Dian Fossey’s gravesite and what remains of her old research station, Karisoke. This turned out to be quite a strenuous trek again, but it was well worth it, mainly thanks to our tracker, Francois, who used to work with Dian Fossey, researching the gorillas from the 1960s until Dian’s tragic and unsolved murder in 1985.

It was indeed an emotional experience reaching the gorilla graveyard. All the gorillas that pass on – whether from natural causes or poaching – are represented by a wooden cross with their names carved on it. Digit’s grave was at the far end next to Dian’s tomb. Digit was the silverback with whom Dian had a powerful bond, and their relationship ended in 1977 when poachers attacked Digit’s group. The fearless gorilla sacrificed himself for the good of the group, sustaining several spear wounds while fighting to the death so that his group could escape unharmed. The poachers subsequently decapitated him and removed his hands. This tragedy weighed upon us, and the energy of both Digit and Dian hung strongly in this tranquil spot in the depths of the jungle.

It was then time to trek back, but it had started raining, and the black mud grew deeper by the minute. We descended the mountain, slipping and sliding down the slopes. We must have looked very comical, and I don’t think that I have ever laughed so much on a trek in my life – it was like being a kid again!

jytte-fredholm-ferreira-by-dianne-fossey-grave — Paying respects at Dian Fossey’s gravesite ©Jytte Fredholm Ferreira

pandora-gorilla-grave-jytte-fredholm-ferreira — A female gorilla’s grave (left); Jytte and Francois (right). Both images ©Jytte Fredholm Ferreira

The end of an adventure

After all the excitement, we rounded off our trip with a visit to Akagera National Park, which is situated at a lower altitude than the rest of the country and is home to one of the highest concentrations of hippos in Africa. From there, we made our way to our final destination, Lake Kivu, Rwanda’s largest lake at 480 metres deep. It is truly spectacular, surrounded by mountains with irregular shores, peninsulas, and plenty of waterfalls.

Towards the end of our stay, we hired a local to take us on a boat ride, and we ended up on Napoleon Island, a desolate home to many fruit bats feeding on the plentiful guava growing on the island. It was an incredible experience when thousands of squeaking bats filled the dusky skies above us.

On our return, we watched numerous local fishing boats leaving the shores for the night. The men’s singing voices permeated the air as they began their long night’s job under the African stars. Rwanda was grandly bidding me farewell, and I left the country with a warm and fuzzy feeling. What a fascinating place – incredible people, dramatic history, and awe-inspiring wildlife. Rwanda will leave no one untouched. I will return…

breakfast-at-dawn-ruzizi-camp-jytte-fredholm-ferreira — Breakfast at dawn in Akagera National Park ©Jytte Fredholm Ferreira

Best time to travel

The best time to head to Rwanda depends on many things, such as personal interests and the reasons for travelling. One person’s best time could be another’s worst, depending on where you want to visit, and Africa’s weather patterns are becoming increasingly unpredictable.

Rwanda lies fractionally south of the equator, in the heart of Africa. It’s relatively high altitude offers a remarkably pleasant tropical highland climate.

Temperatures vary considerably between locations but change very little from month to month at the same location. In the capital of Kigali, the average daily temperature is about 21°C.

Rwanda’s long rainy season lasts from about March to May, when rainfall is heavy. Having said that, though, I was there at the end of March, and we only had a few bursts of rain in over two weeks. The long dry season is generally the best time to visit for most people, from June to mid-September. From October to November, there is a shorter rainy season, followed by a short dry season from December to February.

Healthy cascades on a waterfall trail in Nyungwe National Park ©Christian Boix

Health and safety

When it comes to safety, Rwanda is right at the top. There was a significant police presence, and not once during my visit did I feel threatened in any way, whether in a city or the countryside. The laws are stringent, and crime statistics are low, but, as always, general precautions should still be taken to be on the safe side.

To travel to Rwanda, you must be vaccinated against yellow fever and carry the certificate. There is a moderate risk of malaria, and tsetse flies are prevalent in some areas at certain times, but they are generally not a problem in Kigali or the Virunga Mountains.

Tap water in Kigali is generally drinkable, but you may prefer to err on the side of caution and purchase bottled water.

Trekking at high altitudes can be strenuous, and to alleviate some of the side effects, I used Cellfood oxygen drops in my drinking water when hiking, which worked brilliantly for me.

A traffic jam behind a herd of Ankole cattle ©Christian Boix

What to do in Rwanda

A trip to Rwanda doesn’t have to focus on visiting the mountain gorillas and golden monkeys in the Volcanoes National Park in the Virunga Mountains. You can also visit Nyungwe National Park, which hosts 13 primate species, 75 mammal species, and 278 bird species, and is one of the wealthiest areas in Africa for endemic species.

Akagera National Park is also spectacular, thanks to its lakes and grasslands. Akagera has recently reintroduced lions into the park, and birding is excellent, with more than 525 species.

Beyond the national parks, a visit to the genocide memorial sites may be of interest to you. It may seem morbid, but it is well worth a visit to better understand Rwanda’s history, culture and people. It is also worth visiting Lake Kivu, a popular destination for swimming, beaching, or taking a boat trip to one of the many islands.

lion-rwanda — Look out for the lions that have recently been reintroduced into Akagera National Park ©Jytte Fredholm Ferreira

baby-baboon-scratching-behind-ear — Visit Nyungwe National Park, which hosts 13 species of primates! ©Jytte Fredholm Ferreira

About the author

Jytte Fredholm Ferreira is a wildlife photographer, animal communicator, travel writer, diver and sailor passionate about Africa and its wildlife. She is deeply involved in nature conservation and has won a prestigious SKAL International award for media and conservation. She hopes that her unique photographic perspective, as well as her connection with animals, will convey their emotions and conjure in readers the feeling of being out in the wild.

As a naturalist and passionate conservationist, Jytte feels there is an urgency to foster greater understanding, love, and appreciation between humans and nature. Otherwise, she fears that our natural world and its wonders will soon be lost.

Originally from Sweden, she now spends much of her time in the bush on photographic expeditions and has travelled extensively across Southern and Central Africa. She recently started offering photographic wildlife trips into the Sub-Saharan wilderness. You can visit her website for more information.

The antics of adorable hyena cubs

My neighbours call me the hyena lady and I choose to take this as a compliment. I earned this name because of my insatiable fascination with spotted hyenas. Written by: Sharon Haussmann

In the special part of wilderness where I live, Balule Private Nature Reserve, we have a territorial clan of hyenas totalling about 24 adults. This clan regularly dens near my house and this has enabled me to spend many hours observing them. I have seen them hunt, scavenge, sleep, play, mate and very near giving birth. I have heard them whoop, growl, whimper, cackle, yelp, and so much more. I know every individual; I have taken thousands of photos and videos and done some extensive sound recordings. These misunderstood animals have become a part of my daily life.

hyena-baby — A six-week-old cub looking at the world differently! Snuggling in the safety of mom’s company this curious cub stared at me intently – I was left wondering if he would have an upside-down imprint of humans in his mind forever!

It is every time that I look into the dark, soulful little eyes of a hyena cub that I wish to tell the world, and especially children, that there is so much more to hyenas than the villain characters so strongly portrayed in Disney movies.

hyena-cubs — Little black cubs, estimated to be two weeks old, exploring outside their burrow.

While they certainly are fierce predators, they are also very nurturing, social and caring creatures. I have had the privilege to observe this active hyena den for almost three years now and my fascination with these beautiful, complex animals grows stronger every day.

hyena-cub — A mom moving her cub from one burrow to another.

Early mornings at the den are my favourite time. This is when the adventurous cubs come out to play, and their curiosity and mischievous antics can soften the steeliest of hearts and captivate one’s attention for hours.

hyenas-with-cub — Clan members take a close look at a small cub while mom, in the middle, keeps an eye.

The cubs’ play closely resembles that of domestic dogs. They love an energetic game of chase, leaving dust billowing over the den. The chase always ends with a tumble and some biting and playful bullying. Another amusing and favourite game of theirs is tug-of-war – one cub will find a stick, and another tries to steal it away, resulting in two cubs growling and pulling fiercely at opposite ends!

The cubs often run right over resting or sleeping adults, tumbling and scrambling over them and away. The adults do not flinch, tolerating the cub’s play almost with amusement, and sometimes they even join in. While this play is important for their muscle development, it is evident that some superior hunting skills are packaged in those cute little black bodies.

hyenas-playing — The two little cubs were enjoying a good game of chase when the sub-adult joined in but was playing too rough and hurt the babies. Mom was lying down to the side but in a flash jumped up and disciplined the sub-adult.

Hyena cubs are born completely black, with open eyes and a full set of teeth. They cautiously emerge from the burrow at around two to three weeks old and soon gain enough confidence to venture and explore nearby the den. They gradually develop spots from the neck down and are completely spotty around six months of age.

Hyena clan — Some clan members socialising. Adults, sub-adults and cubs all interact and communicate with each other.

It is when I see the tenderness with which a mother nurses her cubs, the affection between family members and the playful nature of these fascinating creatures that I wish to tell the world there is so much more to hyenas than the sly scavenging characters of Shenzi, Banzai, Ed and Janja!

hyenas — Mom sleeping soundly while her eight-week-old cub looks around.

Meet 3 elephant angels

Three of the world’s leading African elephant conservationists offer hope and inspiration for saving elephants, the largest land animal on earth, from extinction.

Iain Douglas-Hamilton

Many people consider Iain of Save the Elephants to be the grandfather of elephant conservation. Fifty years ago, at the age of 23, Douglas-Hamilton moved from Britain to Lake Manyara National Park in Tanzania to live in the wild, conducting the first scientific study of the social interactions of the African elephant. Douglas-Hamilton argues that collecting and analysing large amounts of data on elephant locations and migrations can lead to insights into their choices and, therefore, assist in protecting against rising threats, including poaching and human-wildlife conflict. Douglas-Hamilton was the first to alert the world to the ivory poaching holocaust, and he helped bring about the world ivory trade ban in 1989.

What gives Iain Douglas-Hamilton hope and inspiration for saving elephants?

“Various collaborations of concerned individuals, non-governmental organizations (NGOs), institutions and governments playing such a big role in demand reduction gives me such joy and hope that we are all working together to ensure the survival of elephants. Whenever I feel down, I go and hang out with the elephants in Samburu (Kenya), who are very used to me and allow me into their world to watch as a silent observer. I see the young mothers who have grown up from childhood, and I get my elephant fix for a few hours. This re-invigorates me to face and combat the awful realities of the elephants’ situation in Africa today.”

Cynthia Moss

American-born Cynthia Moss moved to Africa in 1968 and has spent the past 47 years in Kenya studying elephants and working for their conservation with the Amboseli Trust for Elephants.

How does Cynthia Moss stay inspired?

“It’s not difficult to stay inspired when one is dealing with elephants. They are infinitely inspirational—long-lived, intelligent, intensely social, charismatic, empathetic, amusing, endearing and more. Anyone could be inspired by elephants without ever seeing them in the wild. Of course, there are bad days when it seems impossible to conserve elephants, but I have never once thought of giving up. There is nothing heroic or commendable about my position; there is simply no choice for me.”

Daphne Sheldrick

As a child, Daphne Sheldrick rehabilitated injured animals before returning them to the wild. Today, through the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust organisation, she is considered the world’s expert on raising orphaned elephants (who have lost their families mainly due to poaching) and re-introducing them back into the wild.

How does Daphne Sheldrick stay inspired?

“By involving oneself in the natural world, one understands that the other beings that share our planet home have to cope with far worse traumas [than we], and yet find the courage to turn the page and focus on the living. The elephants, in particular, have given me the strength to emulate them in this way. There are always highs and lows in the work I do, but one simply has to cope and accept the rough with the smooth!”

*All quotes are excerpts from my book Saving Wild, Inspiration From 50 Leading Conservationists, which is available on Amazon.

Read more about some of the world’s leading conservationists: Message of Hope.

Find out about Kenya for your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

Supporting the canines of Kruger

General Johan Jooste qualifies the canine involvement in anti-poaching rather simply by saying, “They are game changers”. And they truly are. Today, Kruger’s canine unit sees about 52 dogs operating in a Big Five area that many now call a war zone. On a recent trip to Kruger, I learned that these hardworking dogs have many different functions, including tracking poachers in the park and detecting contraband at entrance and exit points.

The canine function is so important that I was keen to get involved and help out. And because doggies tug on everyone’s heartstrings, there is often an outpouring from the public wanting to assist Kruger’s canines. But hearts, funds and help must be pointed in the right direction.

kruger-anti-rhino-poaching-dog — ©Ravi Gajjar, Rhino Tears

The K9 Centre in the Kruger National Park, managed by Johan De Beer, was initially established to bring in dogs and handlers for training, re-training and evaluations. Dogs are also brought to the centre when handlers are on leave. However, Grant Coleman, chairman of the Lowveld Region of the SANParks Honorary Rangers, believes that the centre’s function as a training ground for dogs and handlers will become far bigger than originally planned. Grant says that the K9 Centre could very well become “a centre of knowledge – radiating information out to other centres and parks. But this transfer of knowledge comes with a cost. Transferring information between organisations means that Kruger’s K9 Centre needs to grow and develop. Just by working at the centre, we realised, sometimes daily, that the needs are growing. For instance, a small clinic, an auditorium, obstacle courses, and storage are a few important items we now know we need.”

The SANParks Honorary Rangers have adopted the K9 Centre and taken it under their wing. The Lowveld Region, being the closest region to the centre, coordinates all activities, maintenance, duties, and fundraising that may occur at the centre. The SANParks Honorary Rangers have committed to assist the K9 Centre under the “Project Watchdog” banner. Project Watchdog is a registered project within SANParks through which the Honorary Rangers can officially assist the canine operation in Kruger and the other national parks with canine units. To date, the SANParks Honorary Rangers have purchased trauma kits, donated a few dogs, implemented vet training for handlers, worked on maintaining the centre, established a Hero’s Acre, assisted in general duties at the centre, and are currently looking at building new kennels at ranger posts… to name but a few of the projects underway.

All monies raised by the SANParks Honorary Rangers for Project Watchdog go back to the canine operations in totality. This means that 100% goes back to where it was intended. The canine unit is regularly offered expertise, dogs, training, assistance to help in operations, etc. But Grant believes that “the willing public needs to be aware that the expertise, training, and dogs are all in place. The need for new dogs has nearly reached saturation point. The emphasis these days is not on the supply of the dogs but rather on the support of the dogs and their handlers in the field. About 52 dogs are currently operating in Kruger alongside their dedicated handlers. The dogs need support as they continue to work in a Big Five area that has basically been turned into a war zone, operating in difficult and testing situations. Medical equipment, food, transport boxes, mobile kennels, and permanent kennels are but a few of the items needed to keep this four-legged force mobilised. The best way to support the canine efforts in SANParks is to support the SANParks Honorary Ranger Initiatives. If anyone would like to assist, please do not hesitate to contact me via email.”

kruger-anti-poaching-dog — ©Ravi Gajjar, Rhino Tears

In the near future, the K9 Centre intends to start an “Adopt a Dog” programme, where the public can support the dogs through minimal financial help. This support will give the donor access to information on the progress of the dog they have ‘adopted’. They will be able to see their dog’s challenges and successes on a monthly or quarterly basis, and their financial support will assist the dog and handler in being more effective in their daily anti-poaching operations. In keeping with this line of thinking, the official SANParks – Kruger National Park Facebook group recently raised over ZAR35,000 for the K9 Centre through an initiative pioneered by SANPark’s guide and Safari Guide of the Year, Jaco Buys. This money will officially be handed over on 7th August at a ceremony arranged and hosted by the Lowveld Honorary Rangers to Xolani Nicholus Funda, Chief Ranger of anti-poaching operations in the Kruger National Park. The money will be used to adopt the fees and well-being of one of the dogs that will be handed over on the day.

Game census safari

Countless gung-ho riders were galloping back and forth, and frantic calls were coming from all over the property on the radio. We had lost a precious female buffalo after darting her, and the race was on to find the drugged cow before it was too late. As everyone soon discovered after their arrival, this was not typical of horseback riding safaris. This was game census week in the Waterberg, and the catch-and-release of wild animals doesn’t always go according to plan.

As a fellow guest pointed out, there are plenty of places to ride around in the dust, but you can do so with a purpose in the Waterberg. Game Census Week aims to ensure that the private reserve and its wild residents continue to thrive. A game census is a vital tool to achieve this, as it is essential to have accurate numbers of browsers, selective grazers and bulk grazers to maintain a balance in the ecosystem and not over-utilise the environment, which could cause permanent damage to the vegetation.

The week also lends itself to other conservation activities, such as darting and relocating wildlife to establish new populations or to avoid culling. The Waterberg region of South Africa has been exceptionally dry this winter, as the area has been crippled recently by the El Niño drought. As a result, the reality is that farmers either have to sell, move or shoot their livestock or game; otherwise, there is the costly exercise of subsidising feed. The Ant Collection has made a plan to mitigate such circumstances. Once a year – during the winter months, as you can only move animals when it’s not breeding season – guests are invited to saddle up and play cowboy in a modern-day South African context. The pace of the game census week varies, from lots of waiting around to manic adrenaline-pumped riding, which keeps things interesting for the participants.

horse-riding-game-census-the-ant-collection — Riding through the dust in the golden hour of the Waterberg ©James Fox & Kerryn Chegwidden

game census — An aerial view of The Ant Collection ©Oliver Whittle

The Ant Collection has a herd of about 90 horses of five different breeds – athletic thoroughbreds, sure-footed South African boerperde, calm Frisians, spirited Arabians and steady appaloosas. The horses are well-oiled game census machines, knowing to wait patiently while listening for the dart gun before they go racing off to find the targeted animal after a radio cue.

Game capture entails selecting an animal to be darted, which is then surrounded on horseback to keep it in sight. The height and non-threatening presence of the horses allow for good accuracy when counting or capturing game, and it is much less stressful for the wildlife to be approached on horseback rather than in a noisy helicopter.

After what felt like searching for a needle in a haystack, we eventually found that buffalo cow, which had fortunately fallen in sternal recumbency (on its chest). If an animal, except for the rhino, falls in lateral recumbency (on its side), it is predisposed to bloat due to a build-up of gastric gases in the rumen, which is often fatal. With a massive sigh of relief – and a couple of cries – we loaded her up in a trailer and took her to greener pastures where she could start a new breeding herd.

ants-collection-buffalo — Relocating a buffalo cow ©James Fox & Kerryn Chegwidden

Ant’s antelope

During the week, one of our focuses was to relocate young sable and nyala bulls before they reached maturity and would start to challenge the dominant male in the breeding camp. The goal was also to move females with strong genes to a new camp to help establish populations there.

Fortunately for us, the sable and nyala were relatively predictable and easy to handle. Sable are curious and keen to stick together when darted, while nyala tend to split and run. Once the browser is down, someone has the job of holding the slobbery tongue out of the mouth to stop it from choking. Branches are then placed in the trailer around the animal to make it feel more relaxed and at home while being relocated.

sable-relocation-the-ant-collection — Lifting a darted sable onto a truck ©James Fox & Kerryn Chegwidden

sable-release-the-ant-collection — Releasing the sable into new pastures for breeding purposes ©James Fox & Kerryn Chegwidden

Things were a bit trickier when it came to trying to relocate the shy eland, as we had to bribe Africa’s largest antelopes out of the thicket with oranges, which they love because of their vitamin-rich content. It is highly entertaining to watch an eland eat an orange, as they swallow them whole! Eland are also notorious for running away when you see them, so the horses were not always up to speed, and helicopters were called in.

Rather than merely relocating eland, it became more a question of reacting to medical emergencies that the vet had spotted. In particular, a quick change of plan was required when we found two eland with abscesses that were infested with maggots. Tick bite necrosis is a fairly common – and sometimes fatal – problem for kudu and eland, as these two species tend to be predisposed to abscesses caused by ticks around the genitals and ears. But luckily, Dr van Zyl was there to save the day, and he scraped the wounds clean while his audience worked hard to control their gag reflexes. Once injected with an antibiotic and loaded with medicine, the eland were then moved to a smaller camp where they could be monitored.

During our relocation efforts that week, a kudu calf was also reportedly stuck in the mud, so we diverted our route home one day to pull him out! The calf was so exhausted, and his mother was nowhere in sight, so a decision was made to take him back to camp after the successful rescue. The staff at The Ant Collection are no strangers to saving animals and after initially trying to bite his rescuers, the young kudu quickly took to bottle feeding and has gone from strength to strength ever since. Affectionately named Muddy, the little antelope will have to return to the wild eventually, but his kudu cuteness and doe eyes have melted the hearts of every guest and guide in the meantime.

eland-capture-and-release-the-ant-collection — A helicopter is used to help capture a shy eland (left); The eland is released after its successful relocation (right) ©James Fox & Kerryn Chegwidden

The tears of a giraffe

As much as we all fell in love with Muddy, the giraffe capture day was the most exciting part of my week-long experience. However, this was also the most emotionally draining day, as giraffes are a vet’s trickiest patient due to their physiology, and they have been known to die randomly under anaesthetic. To our dismay and horror, we were to witness such a death.

However, we had to take this risk to be able to move three of these gentle giants to a local buyer’s farm. As a result of the drought, the reality is that the giraffes will otherwise starve to death and with no big predators on the property, there is no means of natural population control. The other alternative to relocation is culling, which The Ant Collection has decided against.

Giraffe are complicated to capture and before making any attempt, the vet and the guides gave us a step-by-step demonstration. Ralph, the reserve’s black labrador, also assisted. We not only discovered that giraffes tend not to fall after being darted, which means you have to trip them, but we also learnt that you have to help them to stand upright when they wake up.

tripping-giraffe-the-ant-collection — It is necessary to trip a giraffe once it has been darted so that it doesn’t cause itself any harm ©James Fox & Kerryn Chegwidden

Like a buffalo, a giraffe has to lie on the ground abreast once it has been tripped, but the difference is that its head has to be kept suspended due to its unique circulatory system. The giraffe has double the blood pressure of other mammals (for blood to reach its brain), which means that the brain can quickly become flooded with blood and damaged if it is not above the heart. By the time I arrived on the scene after an unfortunate detour through the thorn bushes, the spotted ungulate was already blindfolded with its ears plugged and ropes on. As it tried to muster enough momentum to stand up again, guides, guests and volunteers pushed and pulled relentlessly, willing it to stand. Everyone knew that the longer it remained on the ground, the riskier the situation became.

After a great deal of sweating and muttering prayers under our breath, the giraffe’s movement became less frequent, and it took its last breath. Tears left treadmarks in dusty, exhausted faces – the energy that went into trying to save the giraffe was heart-wrenching. The sad loss made me realise how there is a fine line between life and death, and tragically, we had lost this giraffe even though we had managed to save little Muddy against the odds. It’s best to remain impartial when dealing with wild animals, but this is easier said than done. Or sometimes near impossible.

Rescuing rhino

Following this emotional rollercoaster of an experience, it was time to focus on the rhinos. After three rhinos were poached at The Ant Collection in two separate incidents in 2011, the owners, Ant and Tessa Baber, enlisted the help of the Rhino Rescue Project – an NGO that specialises in making rhino horn unfit for human consumption by infusing a compound consisting of ectoparasiticides into the horn fibres.

This is a costly but worthwhile process as they have not lost a rhino since employing this technique, and there is also an around-the-clock anti-poaching unit guarding these odd-toed ungulates as a further precaution.

During game census week, two young rhinos were cited as having long enough horns for the infusion process, but we first had to separate the calves from their mothers using ‘horsepower’. Once darted, Lorinda and her team from the Rhino Rescue Project worked under pressure to take blood samples and measure the horns while their machine worked to ensure that no one would want the horns other than the rhinos themselves!

The rhinos are an intricate part of life at The Ant Collection, and the Babers have been instrumental in establishing the charity Save the Waterberg Rhino, which plays a vital role in educating local communities about the importance of the Waterberg rhino. So far, the organisation has not only unified local landowners in the Waterberg Biosphere, but it has also made roads less accessible to poachers.

rhino-the-ant-collection — One of the highly protected Waterberg rhinos ©James Fox & Kerryn Chegwidden

What you need to know to take part in Game Census Week

You don’t have to be a rider to participate in game census week, as there is plenty of action in the darting and recovery vehicles. However, if you wish to saddle up to help, it is crucial to be an experienced and confident rider.

Be sure to pack proper riding attire, as every little bit helps to make you more comfortable and secure in your task. It’s also worth bringing neutral-coloured clothing, a swimming costume in case you want to take a dip in the pool after a long ride, and a warm jacket to wear in the early mornings or evenings if it gets nippy. Don’t be afraid to pack light; the laundry service is brilliant!

The daily activities make you so hungry that you could eat a horse, and for this reason, you can expect to enjoy three delicious meals per day, on top of mid-morning saddle bag snacks, afternoon tea and sundowners.

The Ant Collection is a horse of a different colour during game census week, but at other times the lodge operates on a flexible timetable, and guests can pick and choose from a host of activities, from bush walks and game drives to cycling and horse riding. On a regular horseback safari, no previous horse riding experience is required as the horses are well-trained and you’re not expected to keep up such a frantic pace.

Situated in a malaria-free area in South Africa, a trip to the Waterberg makes for a fun holiday for all the family, especially as there are no lions or elephants on the private reserve, which makes it an even safer choice for children.

One of my favourite activities was a late-night lecture presented by Dr Philip Calcott, whose knowledge of the night sky was quite literally out of this world. The lack of pollution results in a starry sky, and while cuddled up under blankets and clutching cups of hot chocolate, we learnt about the planets and some iconic constellations. This Night Sky Safari was full of interesting facts, which surprisingly didn’t take light years to learn. Did you know that the same iron oxide in the Waterberg occurs on Mars, too?

When you’re not snaking through the bush on horseback, a real hit is Craig’s reptile demonstration, during which guests can learn about the resident snake species, including African rock pythons, puff adders and cobras. Craig aims to challenge the misconceptions of snakes and offer an informative perspective.

With so many options and such fun-filled days, choosing a favourite experience is difficult. However, what I found most astonishing about my trip was the personal bonds I formed during my game census safari. The shared adrenaline-filled experiences and boozy campfire banter create the perfect recipe for friendship, and the number of recurring guests is an accolade to this. In the words of Tessa, the owner: “You arrive as guests and leave as friends.”

Find out about South Africa for your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

people-having-fun-the-ant-collection — Make lifelong friends in the bush ©James Fox & Kerryn Chegwidden

About the author

Georgie grew up escaping city life by going horseback riding in the Magaliesberg mountains or Land Rover-ing in the Madikwe sandveld. Accustomed to the sun on her face and the wind in her hair, Georgina then embarked as a trainee sailor on a three-masted barque after graduating with a degree in Environmental Science.

Ship life steered her beyond her beloved Southern Africa to remote destinations and ecological treasure houses like the Galapagos, Pitcairn Island and Polynesia. Once grounded, her love of the outdoors developed into a deep respect for the environment and a desire to preserve it.

Birds, great apes, and so much more in Uganda

Uganda2016_Shoebill1 — A shoebill hunting for catfish in Uganda © Malcolm Lund

In June 2016, my wife Trish and I signed up for a safari to Uganda with Africa Geographic. We have travelled extensively in eastern and southern Africa, but this would be our first visit to this less-discovered jewel. We had high hopes for superb birding and some memorable great ape encounters. Uganda delivered those, and so much more. By Malcolm Lund

Our safari began in Entebbe on the shore of Lake Victoria, where we found almost 70 bird species on our first day without even leaving town. Then it was off to Mabamba Swamp for our first try at that most unique and prehistoric-looking of birds, the shoebill. We had a terrific ‘photoshoot’ with this highly sought-after Ugandan speciality and many other marsh and water birds.

Uganda2016-Gorilla-Mom-Infant — Mother and child mountain gorilla © Malcolm Lund

After a quick visit to Lake Mburo National Park to enjoy its savannah wildlife and chalk up many more bird species, we headed into the highlands of southwestern Uganda.

We spent five glorious days in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, hiking and enjoying its highland forest’s serene beauty and prolific birdlife. But the show’s real star here was gorilla trekking – an easy forest walk to visit a troop of mountain gorillas. Spending an hour in the presence of such gentle giants was a highlight of this trip and all our time in wild Africa.

We could have happily spent our entire holiday in Bwindi, but Uganda had many more secrets for us to discover.

Uganda2016-Gorilla-Silverback — A silverback mountain gorilla © Malcolm Lund

Next up was a visit to the game-rich savannahs of Queen Elizabeth National Park. Here, we met the handsome Ugandan kob and the renowned tree-climbing lions of Ishasha.

tree-climbing-lions — A tree-climbing lion of Ishasha © Malcolm Lund

We also took a relaxing boat cruise along the bird-rich shores of the Kazinga Channel. Herds of water-loving elephants were entertaining, but the hundreds of pied kingfishers really stole the show.

elephant-uganda — A herd of elephants drinking © Malcolm Lund

pied-kingfisher-uganda — A male pied kingfisher © Malcolm Lund

Next up was our second great ape encounter of the tour, a morning of chimpanzee tracking in Kibale Forest. The forest walk was pleasant, and we had an excellent viewing of chimps engaging in many interesting behaviours. What struck us most was how different this was from our mountain gorilla encounter. The gorillas were docile and calm, while the chimps were very vocal and constantly on the move in their forest home.

chimpanzee-uganda — A chimpanzee vocalising © Malcolm Lund

After Kibale, we got down to the serious business of Uganda birding. The lowland rainforest of the Congo Basin extends into the Albertine Rift Valley of extreme western Uganda. Two very special reserves there, Semliki and Budongo, are nirvana for serious birders.

royal-mile-uganda — The Royal Mile, Budongo Forest © Malcolm Lund

There are rewards for more casual birdwatchers, including many species of hornbills, kingfishers and bee-eaters. For hard-core twitchers, the deep forest birding is both challenging and very rewarding, with the enticing possibility of seeing birds that you will not find anywhere else in East Africa.

My personal favourite was a gorgeous chocolate-backed kingfisher, which gave us a memorable show along a beautiful forest path called the Royal Mile.

bee-eater-uganda — Red-throated bee-eater ©Malcolm Lund

Our final stop on the tour was in Murchison Falls National Park, where several compelling attractions competed for our attention. Much of the park is lovely savannah parkland dotted with Borassus palms.

Rothschild-giraffe-uganda — Rothschild giraffe © Malcolm Lund

Huge numbers of antelopes such as Uganda kob, waterbuck, topi, hartebeest and oribi mingle with elephants, buffaloes and giraffes. And flowing dramatically through the middle of the park is the grand Victoria Nile, with its complement of hippos, crocodiles and teeming birdlife.

Uganda-Hippos — A pod of hippos © Malcolm Lund

We couldn’t have scripted a better finish to our safari. On a Nile cruise on our final morning, we ended just as we had started: with a photo shoot of that rare, magnificent, one-of-a-kind Ugandan special, the shoebill.

shoebill-uganda — The iconic shoebill © Malcolm Lund

Uganda proved to be much more than we imagined, with something for everyone – beautiful and diverse landscapes, very welcoming people, world-class guides, excellent game reserves, unforgettable great ape encounters, and truly outstanding birding.

Even with over 440 bird species in 19 days, we were lucky not to have seen them all – because now we have a reason for a return trip to Uganda!

Find out about Uganda for your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

nile-uganda — Sunset over the Nile ©Malcolm Lund

Bushmeat hunting alarmingly high in South Africa

Bushmeat hunting in Africa is rife, with estimates stating that more than eight million tons of wild animals are eaten every year. Although most research on this hunting focuses on the tropical forests of Africa, in countries such as the DRC and Cameroon, the following survey results show that hunting for the pot is very common in South Africa.

bushmeat-hunting-Africa — Primates are often consumed as bushmeat in Africa. ©Name withheld

As the infographic below shows, a study exclusively made available to Africa Geographic shows just how serious the problem is in savannah habitats too. The survey results, which surveyed rural inhabitants in KwaZulu Natal, South Africa, show that 90% of men hunt illegally, but none of the women surveyed hunted.

Amongst the men who hunted, most claimed that they hunted more than three times a week, and more than three-quarters of the men hunted at least weekly. When asked if they were worried about getting caught and prosecuted for illegal hunting, over 95% of people said they were unafraid of getting caught.

The survey asked what methods of hunting respondents used. The most frequent hunting method was the use of traps and snares, which is also the most wasteful method of hunting, as often animals are not collected from snares and left to rot. The second most common method of hunting was using dogs to chase down prey. Very few men hunted with guns, and most said the reason for this was they could not afford them.

Most men – 65% – said they hunted to feed themselves and/or their families. Approximately 20% hunted for sport or gambling (placing bets on the outcome of the hunt, for example, whether the dogs will catch prey), whilst 5% hunted for traditional medicine. The implications of such responses are important not just for conservation because, whilst the number of animals lost is significant, the fact that almost seven out of ten respondents were hunting to eat makes this a significant human welfare concern.

It is easy to argue against illegal bushmeat hunting, but with hunger as the driving force, it is difficult to moralise. What is clear is that further research is needed to identify bushmeat hotspots across Africa and to aid control measures that prevent huge losses of animals in these areas, with a specific focus on animals that are declining significantly due to these hunting pressures.

ALSO READ: Saving rodents, losing primates – we need tailored strategies to manage bushmeat trade

Hope: a rhino’s story of survival

Award-winning filmmakers Susan Scott and Bonné de Bod are currently filming the much-anticipated documentary film, STROOP. The duo are in the editing stage, and the film about rhino poaching is due for release by the end of 2016. Bonné is well-known as a South African wildlife television presenter. The special story of Hope has temporarily paused their journey.

We all know the image of a rhino poaching by now. We have seen the bloated carcass of a once majestic animal and, of course, the cruel empty space of missing horns set against blood-red tissue and bone.

Johan-Hope-Evaluation-Rhino — Bonné de Bod and Dr Johan Marais of Saving The Survivors with Hope, the rhino, on a recent evaluation.

Early on in our filming of STROOP, we realised that once… well, once was enough for most folk. We were new to partnering social media with filming, but it was and still is our connection with those who fund the film – the public. Not only is it vital for us to share our filming journey, but it’s also a great way for us to see immediately what people want to know more about and what they don’t like. And what they don’t like are pictures of dead rhinos with hacked-out faces lying rotting in the African sun. Literally, the minute we share a post with a poaching image, we lose followers on our page, and we’d receive messages saying images like this should not appear in early morning coffee time on Facebook feeds! So people care about our rhinos and are worried about the crisis, but not the gore, the reality smacking them in the face.

All this changed just over a year ago.

Hope-Legs-Hope-rhino — Hope’s legs during one of her immobilisations on her side.

A horrific photo of mangled pink tissue against a backdrop of grey skin showed up in our news feed. This time, though, the rhino was alive. She had been darted and left for dead after the poachers cut deeply into her sinuses, removing most of her face. It was incredibly tough to look at this image of what was left and even harder to believe she had survived for days before being found. She was moved to Shamwari’s rehabilitation centre, where the veterinary organisation Saving The Survivors was called in to start treatment on her face.

The-Face-of-Hope-rhino — Dr Johan Marais documenting Hope’s wound progress.

It seemed an impossible task, and a controversial one too, as many in the “rhino industry” disapproved, wanting her to be put down – euthanised because she was beyond care. Those working with the rhino named her Hope.

Dr Johan Marais, CEO of Saving The Survivors, is one of our characters in STROOP. We had been with him before on treatments of poached rhino survivors, but nothing prepared us for seeing Hope.

As Bonné said, “You can look at photos and feel a pull in your stomach at the brutality and how painful that must be for her. But when you smell the fresh tissue and blood, when you hear her breathing through that mangled mass, and you turn to look at what’s left of her face, and she looks at you and then blinks … wow. You can’t explain that. And that’s my job, explaining this to people who can’t be there. How do you do that when there aren’t words made for this?”

httpv://youtu.be/eaj_DfvAmK0

Clearly, this resonated with people around the globe. Almost overnight, Hope became a media sensation. She was featured in hundreds of print publications and on all the major news channels and networks worldwide. She suddenly became the most famous rhino on the planet, and social media peeps couldn’t get enough of her. Posts went viral. Americans, Europeans, Australians, Egyptians, Brazilians, Ukrainians, Fijians… every corner and every far-flung place, thousands of miles away from the Eastern Cape shrubbery of her home, wanted more information. How much she was eating, what she was eating and most especially, her wound covering and the technology involved in her many operations became long discussion points on Facebook.

rhino-Hope — Dr Gerhard Steenkamp of Saving The Survivors drilling screws into Hope to hold her wound-protecting shield in place.

The healing process under her wound covering was obviously becoming itchy for Hope. Dr Marais and the team of vets would drill screws into what was left of her bone structure to hold a variety of coverings ranging from fibreglass to metal to cutting-edge materials from the military and even cured elephant skin. Varieties of surgical steel wire and different binding techniques were used to hold the covering where there was no bone or where sections of her top lip used to be. But this gal always found ways to rip the coverings off!

rhino-poaching-wire-surgery — Dr Gerhard Steenkamp of Saving The Survivors working with surgical stainless steel wires on the rhino survivor Hope in the Eastern Cape.

Hope-Plastic-Surgery-Technology-FG-web — The ABRA® plastic surgery technology being used for the first time on an animal, in this case, rhino poaching survivor Hope.

She was also quite bad-tempered, and who can blame her? When a new boma structure was being built for her, she would stand at the top of a hill in her enclosure, move her head side to side to look through her bandages at people working at the boundary and then move her massive two-tonne body in a full-blown charge down towards the fleeing workers! She would only stop millimetres from the fence line, causing everyone to draw breath at the expected damage to her face from fence posts. The thought that this animal was feisty or an emotional eater fuelled social media even more. Her global reach has been impressive for sure, but she has given a face to rhino poaching that no human could ever do. With each operation, she shows us all the struggle to survive. To get back to normal when it’s quite clear “normal” is as difficult as landing on Mars.

It’s been a year of operations and searching for ways to do the impossible and close the wound. It’s hard to believe that in seven years of poaching, so little is known about the facial structure of rhinos. Dr Marais, also a professor at Onderstepoort, has been cutting up rhino heads from carcasses and x-raying, MRI and CT scanning rhino skulls in a desperate effort to know more about what lies behind Hope’s damage.

rhino-ct-scan — Bonné de Bod interviewing Dr Johan Marais of Saving The Survivors before he conducts a CT scan of a rhino poaching victim’s skull.

The journey of finding solutions has, of course, been shared on social media and has had the mushroom effect of finding ideas from all over, especially those never used before on animals. A Canadian plastic surgery technique of pulley systems and “glue-on-steroids” is now being used on her in the hopes of pulling the wound closed. It beggars belief but it seems to be working. Her face has changed dramatically, and there are always never-ending discussions about this online. But Hope being Hope, she has also thrown her facial surgeons by, unbelievably, growing a new back horn!

Hope-and-Press-rhino — Hope on an operation day where the press have been called in to document her journey.

Hope-Limpopo-Boma-rhino — Hope the rhino poaching survivor exactly one year after her poaching with her wound covering off.

We look forward to including this incredible animal in our film, and as Bonné so appropriately said after the first time she saw her, “I felt so privileged to be making eye contact with this animal who has been made ugly by human greed but has become so beautiful because of her desire to live.”

Walking Chief’s Island, Okavango Delta, Botswana

Tim and Heather Doyle recently went on safari to the Okavango Delta in Botswana with Africa Geographic. Here’s what they had to say about their trip.

On our first evening at the mobile tented camp on Chief’s Island, the frog calls were deafening! The list of amphibians included the raucous toad, painted reed frogs, and many others. At the same time, a bull elephant browsed in the reeds towards the setting sun. It was just an awesome time before darkness fell!

This was our first safari to the Okavango Delta, and we agreed on an itinerary comprising flights between Maun and Chief’s Island, the first and last nights at Gunn’s Camp, and three nights in a mobile tented camp. June was a great time for the trip as the seasonal flooding is almost at its peak, but it can get chilly at night. We asked for a classic Botswana safari – and we got what we asked for!

The trip comprised a combination of boat trips from Gunn’s Camp exploring the nearby delta channels, mokoro trips and walking from the tented camp. We did have our first lesson in piloting the mokoro ourselves, which was a lot of fun, and we stayed dry.

We believe walking safaris are the ultimate adventure, experiencing the environment and wildlife on foot. Our two guides, Mike and Edward, who looked after us for the six days, were phenomenal – very knowledgeable and safety aware.

Several times, we encountered male buffalo on our walks without incident. We respected the distance to them, watched them for a time, and moved on.

The birding in the Okavango Delta is just spectacular, and highlights for us included wattled crane, coppery-tailed coucal and a pair of Pel’s fishing owls.

Elephant sightings were frequent, and a highlight of the trip was watching a breeding herd crossing a river channel, feeding as they went. There was also some excitement as we navigated narrow channels passing territorial male hippos. Unfortunately, we had no predator sightings on this trip, but we heard lions calling every night.

Thank you for a lovely trip!

Find out about Botswana for your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

Africa Geographic team finds new location for previously ‘extinct’ frog species

The Bururi long-fingered frog (Cardioglossa cyaneospila), previously thought to have gone extinct in 1952 and then rediscovered in 2011 after one specimen was discovered in Burundi, has now been found in Nyungwe National Park, Rwanda – a new site for this frog. And a member of the Africa Geographic team made the discovery!

bururi-long-fingered-frog-rediscovered — The Bururi long-fingered frog

This exciting discovery was made by Africa Geographic director Christian Boix while on safari with clients.

Says Boix: “It was early morning, and our safari clients and I were trekking for chimpanzees in the dense highland rainforest of Nyungwe when I noticed this gorgeous frog in the dense undergrowth. At the time, I did not know it was once thought to be extinct, but it reminded me of poison dart frogs I had seen in South America, and I was curious about its identity. That evening, I emailed the picture to the Africa Geographic team in and asked them to confirm its identity. I am elated to hear that this is a discovery for this area and that we have contributed to the pool of knowledge about this stunning frog.”

Says an elated David Blackburn, Associate Curator of Herpetology at the Florida Museum of Natural History (University of Florida), and a member of the team that rediscovered the frog in Burundi in 2011: “This is only the second time that this species was found in Rwanda, the last time being in 1952. It has never been found in Nyungwe, but we expected it to occur there because of the available habitats. Following several initial records in the late 1940s and early 1950s, it was more than 50 years before more recent records in Uganda, Burundi, DRC, and now Rwanda.”

Read about the distribution of the frog here.

frog-forest — The forest habitat in which the frog was found.

Find out about Rwanda for your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

Gallery: Faces of Africa

This gallery Faces of Africa by the photographer Trevor Cole consists of several portraits taken in Ethiopia, Somaliland and Namibia. Trevor has a passion for indigenous people and how they live in such a connected way to their environment.
Portraiture is something that enables Trevor to see the person and relate to them. He feels that photography should be an interactive moment that captures the subject and offers an insight into their character. He aims for his images to portray a feeling or a connection, or perhaps even summon empathy.
As a result, some of his images are candid and spontaneous, while others may be posed but seek to expose an inimitable moment nevertheless. Trevor sees beauty in all, and he finds lifelines in the old, as well as the innocence of youth, enticing. He also seeks to convey somehow how people live, as well as their cultures and traditions. He feels that a portrait can reveal a hardship or happiness, and he has often noticed strikingly similar traits in communities, due to numerous environmental factors as well as genetics—Trevor endeavours to capture these common characteristics through alternative perspectives.
Trevor believes that taking portraits of people in the marketplace, street or a tribal village requires interaction. At times he discretely takes clandestine shots with a longer lens, but most of the time he likes to get to know whomever he is photographing. When it comes to portraiture, he always asks for permission and, if rejected, he respects personal choices, which may be based on conservative cultural or religious beliefs. However, in his experience, he does often find that spending a little time and using a little humour can yield a positive response.
Trevor notes that photographing tribal people requires a different approach. For example, a good guide is vital when it comes to photographing the Himba in Namibia and Ethiopia’s Omo Valley tribes. He has found that taking some provisions to the village and presenting them to the headman makes a huge difference and enables an amicable atmosphere that involves the whole village. In contrast, he has encountered a different ballgame in Ethiopia where there is the additional precedent of paying villages or individuals. However, Trevor always prefers to give to the village instead of a person because he feels that otherwise, there is a tendency to favour the most photogenic!
Trevor is very sensitive to the impacts that tourism can have, so he will always try to avoid treating a village like a zoo. He feels that it is all a delicate balance and a good guide can help to decide how best to go about things. For example, when he stayed in a Suri village, he wandered around without a camera to become a familiar sight as he believes that interaction is what can make the moment count. And at that moment he wants to capture light, colour, emotion, character and spirit. He tries to shoot in the golden hours or at least where there is shade from the intense African sun. In the right light, at the right time, with the right connection, Trevor believes that the ordinary becomes extraordinary, and that is something he strives for in his work.
Cover image of a Suri girl at a wedding ceremony in the Kibish region of the Omo Valley in Ethiopia.

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‘The miller’ © Trevor Cole

A young man emerging from the flour mill in a small town in eastern Ethiopia. The flour and dirt on his face, his eyes, and his candid expression make this image stand out. His portrait contrasted against a dark doorway makes a further visual impact.

‘Hamar beauty’ © Trevor Cole

A young girl of the Hamar tribe, which is one of the largest tribes in the Omo region of Ethiopia. They are culturally strong and still adhere to many of their ancient traditions.

‘On the edge’ © Trevor Cole

An Ethiopian man in the town of Harar, is living on the edge of existence. His expression and somewhat startled look drew me in to capture the moment. His face portrays a life of struggle and hardship, and his gaunt look adds to the impact of the image and highlights his impoverished state.

‘Girl from Afar’ © Trevor Cole

A young girl from Afar in the Danakil Desert area of Ethiopia. The Afars are complicated to photograph, but occasionally the opportunity materialises. The girl had facial tattoos, which are commonplace in the women of the tribe. They lead a very tough life and are resilient people, but the women often engage in traditional practices that are difficult for westerners to comprehend.

‘On the path’ © Trevor Cole

A man from Harar on his way to the Mosque. Clearly, his mind and focus were elsewhere, as he was oblivious to the candid image being taken of him on the streets of Harar in eastern Ethiopia. Harar is the fourth city of Islam, hence the devotion of its populace. The old man had an interesting face, which was a reflection of not only his walk to the mosque but also his journey through life.

‘Suri tradition’ © Trevor Cole

A young Suri woman with a large lip plate. Younger women are now being discouraged from putting in lip plates, but the tradition does still exist in more remote areas of the western Omo Valley in Ethiopia.

‘Beauty in Afar’ © Trevor Cole

A beautiful young Afar girl in the Afdera region of Ethiopia. Afars are Muslim, so their attire tends to be conservative. Women wearing the hijab, or headscarf, can be seen in many parts of the world, but unmarried girls from Afar noticeably tend to enjoy colourful attire. They also braid their hair in a very distinctive manner and adorn themselves with beads.

‘Hamar siblings’ © Trevor Cole

There is an inextricable bond between Hamar siblings in the Omo Valley of Ethiopia, as many take on responsibility for younger family members at an early age. Brothers and sisters have a very special relationship, which can be particularly noticed during the bull jumping ceremonies that are a rite of passage for young boys when they come of age.

‘Afar vision’ © Trevor Cole

A young girl from Afar in traditional attire with eyes that reflect and draw in the viewer. Despite living a hard life, the people of Afar are very proud and resilient in their isolation. This particular girl has a very serene face with an inimitable allure.

‘The old woman of Berbera’ © Trevor Cole

An old woman, who has lived life and was still doing so, on the streets of Berbera – a coastal port in autonomous Somaliland. It is an important seaport because it is the only sheltered harbour in the southern part of the Gulf of Aden.

‘Himba braids’ © Trevor Cole

A young Himba girl with striking features and beautifully braided hair in the Kunene region of Namibia. Young Himba girls typically have two braids, which come forward over the face. These are called ozondato and are covered in wood resin to stiffen the braiding. Each style is determined depending on the paternal clan.

‘The Somalilander’ © Trevor Cole

An old man in Hargeisa in Somaliland, who was wearing rather cool Rayban-esque frames. Somaliland is an independent nation that is internationally recognised as an autonomous region of Somalia, but its sovereignty is only accepted by Ethiopia and Djibouti. The people are proud of their nation and resolute in their right to independence. Despite perceptions to the contrary, it is a safe, if rather adventurous, place to travel.

‘I am Hamar’ ©Trevor Cole

A Hamar girl at the market in Turmi in the Omo Valley of Ethiopia. The girls take pride in their appearance on market days as they get to meet and interact with others in the marketplace.

About the photographer

Trevor Cole aims to capture people, landscapes – and the interactions between them – in a world that is constantly in transition. As a ‘geographer photographer’, his goal is to capture the unique moments that will never materialise again.
Trevor has lived in England, Singapore, Togo, Italy, Ethiopia and Brazil but has recently returned to Ireland, his country of birth.
Photography and travel are two of his life’s passions. His photography focuses on culture, landscapes and wildlife – images that reflect a spatial and temporal journey through life, which try to convey a need to live in a more sustainable world. He seeks the moment and the light in whatever context, before using his photographic acumen to turn the ordinary into the extraordinary.
Trevor aspires to have an alternative vision for tomorrow, and he believes that photography can capture those moments that empower us to make a positive change in our world.
His photos have been exhibited in London, Ethiopia, Switzerland and Ireland, and he has had great success in various photo competitions. His images have also been featured in The Guardian, The Telegraph, National Geographic, and La Republica, as well as numerous photographic publications.

Swaziland: Africa’s Little Secret

As a South African, I’ll admit that I only thought of Swaziland as just an obscure little country almost entirely engulfed by my own, and I hadn’t considered it much of a travel destination. Perhaps because of its small size, Swaziland often tends to get overlooked when people are planning a trip through Africa. However, when Swaziland Tourism recently sent out an invite to join them on a media trip, I jumped at the opportunity to get off the beaten track and find out more about this unexplored treasure. I soon discovered that this Southern African country might be small but limitless.

As soon as we drove across the unassuming Ngwenya border from South Africa, I was struck by how the yellow of South Africa’s plains gave way to an eruption of pea-green hills and sandy red roads.

swaziland-panorama — The rolling hills of Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary ©Big Game Parks Swaziland

Swaziland’s diverse landscapes include magnificent mountains, gorges, rivers, waterfalls, lush valleys, typical African bush, and unique rock formations. Our five-day whirlwind trip saw us exploring both the glorious natural beauty of Swaziland as well as the heritage and culture of its proud population.

Action-packed adventure

Our journey started at Hawane Resort, which is not 30 minutes from the border. Nestled in Swaziland’s rolling hills, we got close to nature on horseback in this idyllic setting. Walking, trotting and sometimes unintentionally cantering through the grassy wilderness was a fantastic way to experience the country’s expansive beauty, and I immediately fell in love.

While our group leader, Star, sat nonchalantly astride his mare with his cowboy hat tipped partially over his eyes, the rest of us wiggled in our saddles through the first half of the ride. But as soon as we gained some confidence and crossed the road into the grasslands, we were blown away by the view before us. The crisp air and the scent of morning dew made for a heady combination, and my horse, Mystery, and I became fast friends as we strolled through our stunning surroundings together.

Horseback safaris are a great way to explore the wilds of Swaziland ©Big Game Parks Swaziland

hiking-swaziland — Take in the views and enjoy the fresh air of the mountains ©Big Game Parks Swaziland

Once we had been filled with our fair share of wonder, we returned to the resort with aching legs. We headed off to the Malolotja Nature Reserve, where we substituted our saddles for harnesses in preparation for a different adventure. Malolotja covers some 18,000ha and offers diverse wetlands, woods and highveld landscapes. And here in this mountain wilderness, we set off on a bumpy game drive, during which our guide regaled us with safari stories and pointed out the different antelope and far-off baboon troops that inhabit the reserve. We also crossed paths with two women who were gathering grass to create brooms and other household items, and this encounter served to highlight the secure connection that the local rural communities have with nature.

Our driver soon dropped us off at the starting point of a hike to the treetop canopy tour. As we hiked down the valley, rolling grasslands gave way to a dense forest of vibrant greens and the occasional ‘whoop’ of a calling primate. This tour is arguably one of the most beautiful of its kind, and it is a fantastic way to view the park from up high, thanks to a wobbly bridge and ten zip lines that offered some unforgettable scenes as we whizzed through the trees.

Exhausted after a day filled with activities, we were ready to leave this leafy paradise and unwind at the stunning Maguga Lodge, which presented the opportunity to round off the day perfectly with a sunset cruise on the Maguga Dam.

treetop-canopy-tour-swaziland — At the start of the hike to the Treetop Canopy Tour in Malolotja Nature Reserve ©Lucky Nhlanhla

swaziland-ziplining — Whizzing through the beautiful Malolotja Nature Reserve ©Canopy Tours South Africa

sunset-cruise-swaziland — Enjoying a well-deserved glass of wine on a sunset cruise on Maguga Dam ©Lizzy Moletsane

A Southern African sanctuary

The next part of our trip took us to the unforgettable Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, where our accommodation came in the form of beehive huts – a magical experience for someone whose sleeping quarters have always involved four walls and a roof. However, traditional elements were combined with a welcome level of luxury that included running toilets and a comfortable bed, rather than a traditional sleeping mat.

Prying ourselves away from the novelty of our new bedrooms, we explored the camp and park. Mlilwane is a secluded sanctuary in Ezulwini Valley, also aptly known as the ‘Valley of the Heavens’. It is Swaziland’s pioneer conservation area, and the name ‘Mlilwane’, meaning ‘little fire’ in the local SiSwati language, holds particular significance as it is considered to be the metaphorical spark that started a significant conservation movement in Swaziland that resulted in over 22 species being saved from local extinction.

Adding to the charm of Mlilwane, many of the antelope found in the park wandered into camp each day, and I came face-to-face with a startled-looking impala several times while walking back to my hut. Another treat is the warthog family that has made their home under the restaurant’s deck and that spends its mornings warming up by the continually burning campfire, which is rumoured to have not been extinguished in three decades.

milwane-dam — A beautiful dam in Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary ©Big Game Parks Swaziland

After arriving late the night before, our group was excited to partake in an early morning cycling safari to shake off the cobwebs. Mlilwane offers many different ways to experience the bush – from game drives to horseback safaris. Still, we had the chance to practice our pedalling on some somewhat professional-looking mountain bikes.

After a shaky first ride around the camp, we set off on the trail but soon stopped to gawk at a nearby crocodile sunning itself less than five metres away from the track. This was the first of many stops along the trail, and I soon got up to speed when I didn’t want to be left behind with the croc!

If you are moderately fit, which I’ll readily admit I’m not, a mountain bike is a great way to experience a safari. Much like on horseback, you can get closer to the wildlife than in a vehicle, as they aren’t scared off by the sound of an engine, and it offers the chance to easily stop to inspect termite hills and animal tracks that provide a richer experience of the bush.

swaziland-beehive-hut — Beehive huts with a touch of luxury in Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary ©Big Game Parks Swaziland

swaziland-bicycle-safari — Getting up to speed on a cycle safari through Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary ©Big Game Parks Swaziland

Culture

After spending the first half of our trip absorbing the natural beauty and wildlife that Swaziland has to offer, we spent the rest of our tour exploring the cultural heritage of which the country is so proud.

Swaziland upholds and embraces its ancient traditions. The different clans in Swaziland are all part of a single ethnic group that is united under the last true monarchy in the world, meaning that the current King and the Queen Mother have indisputable authority when it comes to governance. And while some people might be surprised to learn that King Mswati III has 15 wives – a number that increases yearly – the people seem to love the royal Dlamini family.

As each king tends to have many wives and many children, the heir to the throne is selected based on his mother’s status. The king, who is referred to as Ngwenyama (lion), has to be her only son and, once crowned, he is expected to choose wives from multiple clans to ensure national unity.

The Swazi nation hosts several ceremonies throughout the year to celebrate its heritage. Still, the most well-known is the Reed Dance – an eight-day ceremony during which young women honour the Queen Mother, who is known as Indlovukazi (she-elephant), by presenting her with freshly cut reeds at the royal homestead, before the dancing and singing begin.

swazi-cultural-dance — Traditional Swazi performances at Mantenga Cultural Village ©Katherine Verhoeven

While our visit didn’t coincide with the Reed Dance, we had the opportunity at the Mantenga Cultural Village to see some of the country’s traditional dances and many of their other costumes and customs. The performances were powerful, and you could feel the passion in the dancers’ movements, as grown men and young boys moved with the grace of ballerinas before stomping down with a thud.

While people are ferociously protective of their culture and way of life, they also love welcoming tourists. They can be master negotiators, which we discovered firsthand during our Mbabane Market trip. This market is a great place to pick up curios and handcrafted gifts, but it is best visited by those who are ready and willing to haggle. Excited calls in SiSwati welcomed us as we clambered out of our bus. A few hundred Rands later, we left with some stunning trinkets and a slightly dazed sensation at having encountered so many keen salespeople.

Finally, the last stop on our trip was in the country’s capital of Mbabane at the prestigious Mountain Inn, which has played host to many delegates over the years and overlooks the stunning valley below. Here, we ended our tour of Swaziland – with a glass of wine in hand, a content feeling of discovery, and a new appreciation of this marvellous part of the continent.

waterfall-matenga-cultural-village — The Matenga Waterfall greets visitors as they enter the cultural village ©Katherine Verhoeven

traditional-home-swaziland — Our guide, Lucky Nhlanhla, wearing traditional Swazi attire outside our beehive hut accommodation ©Katherine Verhoeven

When and how to get there

While the country has excellent weather all year round, it’s widely agreed that the best time to visit Swaziland is during the annual Reed Dance ceremony, which is particularly remarkable to watch as about 40,000 young women take part in the colourful celebrations. This event takes place around the last week of August or the first week of September, but the exact dates are based on ancestral astrology, so they are confirmed each year closer to the time.

While Swaziland is a beautiful country in its own right, flying straight into the international airport is rarely recommended, as it is far from the country’s main attractions. As a result, a preferred option is to drive to Swaziland from South Africa or Malawi, and, as it’s just over four hours by car from Johannesburg, it’s an excellent excuse for a road trip!

driving-swaziland — Take a drive through the stunning scenery of Swaziland ©Big Game Parks Swaziland

What to do

Swaziland offers many attractions to attract different travellers, and its tiny size lends itself easily to exploration. That said, you still need to know what you’re looking for to uncover all of its hidden treasures. A guided tour of the country is one of the best options to ensure you don’t miss out on anything, and hiring a Swazi driver allows you to learn firsthand about the rich heritage and wilderness. The Swaziland Tourism Association is situated on the Ngwenya border and can help guide your trip from there.

If you’re a bush enthusiast, a safari in one of the country’s game parks is a must, whether this is on horseback, bicycle or game drive. There is also the fantastic option of combining a trip to the reserves in Swaziland with a holiday at the Kruger National Park to make the best of two Southern African worlds.

cycling-safari-swaziland — Get your heartbeat racing along the scenic mountain bike trails ©Big Game Parks Swaziland

zebras-swaziland — Spot the stripes of a zebra in Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary ©Big Game Parks Swaziland

horse-safari-swaziland — Equine adventures across the plains of Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary ©Big Game Parks Swaziland

If birds get you reaching for the binoculars, Phophonyane Falls Nature Reserve near Pigg’s Peak not only offers beautiful riverine walks surrounded by mountains and waterfalls but over 250 species of our feathered friends, making it an ideal place for avian admirers, especially if the Narina trogon or crowned eagle is still on your bird list!

Those wishing to unleash their inner historian should visit Nsangwini Rock Art to see some of the world’s most diverse bushman paintings, which date back 4,000 years. It’s also worth stopping at Sibebe Rock, a famous execution rock used by ancient Swazi lawmakers, before hiking to explore the unique ‘Potholes’ rock formation at the Gap.

Shopaholics will also be in paradise as there are several shops to splash some cash, including Ngwenya Glass, where you can watch the glassblowers make beautiful curios from recycled glass. This is an entrancing sight to behold, and any purchase will support a great community project. A stop-off at the famous Swazi Candles to watch the candlemakers craft unique mementoes won’t go amiss, and a walk through Mbabane Market is the perfect place to brush up on your bargaining skills.

execution-rock-sibebe-rock — Sibebe rock – otherwise known as execution rock – overlooks the capital city of Mbabane ©Katherine Verhoeven

house-on-fire — A statue at the House on Fire entertainment venue (top left), Woven bowls on sale at the gift shop (bottom left), Sitting on the steps of an art installation at House on Fire (right) ©Katherine Verhoeven

Where to stay

Swaziland’s accommodation options are varied. What’s more is that they’re incredibly affordable compared with other leading safari destinations in Africa, and most also offer discounted rates during winter, which is their dry season. As the country is so small, you can stay almost anywhere and still have access to different attractions. This said, there’s nothing quite like waking up in the wilderness to the sound of wild animal calls, so a stay in one of the country’s three big game parks is highly recommended.

Most parks offer a range of options, from rustic camping to luxury lodges. Depending on your preferences, you can find unique accommodation in beehive huts in Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary or choose to pitch your tent at Malolotja Nature Reserve, which is an unparalleled choice for campers. Visitors here can hike into the hills and camp in several designated spots, where they are likely to be the only people for miles.

Find out about our ready-made safaris for your next African adventure – or ask us to build one just for you.

view-from-maguga-lodge — The view from Maguga Lodge over Maguga Dam ©Katherine Verhoeven

rolling-hills-malolotja-nature-reserve-swaziland — Marvel at the vast expanse of Malolotja Nature Reserve ©Katherine Verhoeven

About the author

Katherine Verhoeven is a Saffa through and through. Having studied Journalism and English at the University of Cape Town, she set her sights on the digital world and spent a year with the Africa Geographic editorial team as Community Manager, working hand-in-hand with lodge and tour partners to celebrate the continent.

Spending as much time travelling as she possibly can, Katherine has a ‘must-see’ list of countries that she is ready and raring to visit, but she enjoys bumbling around beautiful South Africa as much as she does exploring the rest of the world. Preferring to sit in front of a sunset rather than a television, she takes every opportunity to lock up her flat, pack up her bag, and hit the road to nowhere.

Watch: A baby snow-white baboon

A white baboon is a rare sight indeed, and capturing one on video is a never-to-be-repeated opportunity. This baby leucistic baboon was spotted during a game drive in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park.

This tiny baby’s eyes were normally coloured, leading observers to conclude that he was leucistic and not an albino. Read this post, The Black and White of African Wildlife Explained, for more information on the difference between the two conditions.

Gorillas, volcanoes and mountains of the moon

How often do you get to tick off two bucket list items in one safari? Well, if seeing Endangered mountain gorillas AND sleeping on the ridge of an active volcano floats your boat, then we have just the safari for you – and it’s one of our most popular safaris at the moment.

Our guests, Fatima and Dane Harvey answered some questions about their awesome safari: climbing Mount Nyiragongo, mountain gorilla trekking and visiting Lake Kivu.

accomodation-crater — Accommodation on Mount Nyiragongo’s crater edge ©Fatima and Dane Harvey

What was your favourite moment?

That first moment we saw the gorillas AND watching the volcano at night.

Nyiragongos-boiling-cauldren — Nyiragongo’s boiling cauldren

How were the guides?

The park rangers were wonderful; learning the town’s background, the forest and the gorillas was interesting.

What was your accommodation like?

The hospitality was incredible, and the food and service were great. We really enjoyed the lakeside location and furnishings in the common area. The rooms were basic but comfortable. We enjoyed the live show and music in the evenings. Accommodation on the volcano was basic (as expected), but the staff were wonderful – the porters were a godsend, and we adored our cook, Amani.

Was it worth the money? Would you travel with Africa Geographic again? Would you recommend Africa Geographic to others?

Yes, yes, yes!

3 tips from the Harveys

1. Invest in a good pair of hiking boots.

2. Layers of clothing are essential – you’ll experience sunshine, rain and cold in one day!

3. Ensure you bring enough local currency to tip porters, cooks and drivers – they work hard!

A brief overview of their safari

Their five-day safari started off in the modern and thriving capital city of Kigali in Rwanda, where highlights included the Kigali Genocide Memorial, which is a vivid testimony to the Rwandan people’s reconciliation achievements, and the Kimironko City Market, where all sorts of colourful and tasty food is on display.

The next leg of the safari was a short drive away – Volcanoes National Park – for the main event. Gorilla trekking was enjoyed in stunning forest scenery, which made up for the physically demanding one-to-six-hour walk.

mountain-gorilla — A mountain gorilla ©Fatima and Dane Harvey

Once the gorillas were located, all fatigue was forgotten as they enjoyed time with our enigmatic and dignified close relatives. This is one of the world’s most poignant and profound natural history experiences.

This unique safari’s final leg was across the DRCongo border – a four to six-hour hike to the lava cauldron of Mount Nyiragongo. After several hours of lush forest walking, their party emerged onto a plateau that felt like it was at the top of the world. They felt like the great explorers Burton, Speke and Livingstone as commanding views stretched across Lake Kivu, Rwanda and Burundi.

From there, the vegetation became low and flat as they summited Nyiragongo’s crater and gazed into the boiling cauldron below. That night, spent perched on the lip of the crater, is likely to be etched onto their memories forever. The dark of night emphasises the drama and spectacle of this active lava cauldron as it spits, flares and fountains in one of the greatest shows on Earth.

Mount Nyiragongo ©Fatima and Dane Harvey

Their transfer back to Kigali was likely in silence as they contemplated what is one of Africa’s most iconic safaris.

Famous big tusker Tim speared

Tim is Amboseli’s greatest elephant – the biggest tusker in the ecosystem and a huge contributor to safari tourism revenue. Because of the size of Tim’s tusks, rangers keep an extra eye on his whereabouts and always ensure that a team is near him for security and conflict mitigation. Info provided by Big Life Foundation

Last week, a call came through that Tim had run the narrow gauntlet through the Kimana Corridor, a critical area becoming increasingly constricted – down to less than just 1km in places – by agriculture and development, into Sidai ‘Oleng Conservancy. Tim was spotted towards sundown the following day with a piece of metal sticking out from his left ear at right angles.

Calls reverberated around the ecosystem. At first light, the next day, Big Life, Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) units, and Amboseli Trust for Elephants (ATE) research staff initiated searches throughout the corridor area and aerial surveillance was deployed.

After three hours, Tim was spotted from the air. Thanks to the fantastic response of everyone involved – along with Big Life, ATE, KWS, David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, and Tawi Lodge – enough manpower and vehicles were on hand to quickly and safely roll Tim onto his correct side for treatment.

To great relief, the spear wasn’t poisoned, and had gone through the ear and merely scratched the skin underneath. Within five minutes, Tim was up and heading back to the swamps in the middle of Amboseli. For now, Tim is safe.

However, this clearly illustrates that the Kimana Corridor has become an increasingly high-pressure area.

A couple of weeks ago, an appeal was launched for funding a 40km fence – a life-saving line of protection – along the edge of the farmland to keep the elephants and man separated and safe from one another. This, along with land leasing, is critical to the future survival of Tim, the other elephants, and the Amboseli ecosystem.

Subsequent note: Tim died from natural causes in February 2020

Missing the Mark: African trophy hunting fails to show consistent conservation benefits

The pressure on the trophy hunting industry to take increased responsibility for its impact on endangered and threatened species is growing, with the US now assessing the impact of their trophy hunting activities on African wildlife. The Democratic Staff of the House Committee on Natural Resources has published 25-page report discussing the failure of trophy hunting in conserving species in many areas of Africa.

The report discusses successful and failing programmes in-depth, but for those who don’t wish to read the entire document, here are the key findings. Of course, any summary will neglect the details, so the best option is to download and study the full report. Any omission is in the interests of expediency, and any perceived bias is unintended.

Introduction

The report acknowledges that although the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service’s (FWS) official stance is that the trophy hunting industry “can and has provided significant long-term benefits to the populations of many species,” in many instances this has not been the case.

The report then goes on to examine under what conditions trophy hunting may contribute to conservation, highlighting that “in places like the United States, where laws against wildlife poaching are generally well respected and enforced and transparent mechanisms funnel taxes and fees generated by hunters to effective conservation programs, hunting has helped restore populations of some prized game species” however in parts of Africa trophy hunting has not helped species.

The report examines the effects of trophy hunting on five major threatened or endangered game species (the African elephant, African lion, black rhinoceros, southern white rhinoceros, and leopard) in four African countries (Namibia, South Africa, Tanzania and Zimbabwe), noting that the laws, institutions, and capacity necessary to make trophy hunting benefit conservation are often lacking.

It notes that the FWS is responsible for significantly improving its permitting process to ensure that trophy hunting doesn’t destroy existing populations of these species.

Important findings of the report

1. Scientists believe Earth is now on the cusp of a sixth great extinction – the first one driven by humans. A major driver of this extinction event is poaching and trophy hunting and although poaching is a major driver, trophy hunting does remove significant numbers of animals and appears to be the primary driver of certain animal (such as lion) declines.

2. While some species can support a level of hunting, this report focuses on Threatened or Endangered animals, where there is little margin for error in managing these species.

3. American hunters of these species have the financial means to ensure that they act responsibly and not promote practices that are detrimental to wildlife. This is of great importance as the US is the world’s largest importer of wildlife trophies.

4. It is clear from this report and others that these hunters do not always act ethically or in a way that promotes wildlife conservation – as demonstrated by the killing of Cecil the Lion. In addition, there is no evidence that trophy hunting lessens the rate of poaching, despite claims to the contrary.

5. A strong legal framework that promotes conservation in the source countries is required to prevent these types of practices. In addition, hunting outfitters need to demonstrate conservation benefits. Obviously where corruption levels are high, trophy hunting ‘benefits’ are negligible or nil.

6. The findings of this report were that, in many instances, funds that should have been used for conservation were diverted from their purpose and instances of non-sporting hunting methods are increasing. In addition, some species are being hunted at a rate that out-paces reproduction, making the justification of trophy hunting very difficult.

7. The report notes that not all trophy hunting operations failed, with Namibia’s conservancy model working well to conserve wildlife and enhance local welfare.

8. On the importer side, the FWS has only required one import permit from 2010-2014, even though 2,700 permit-eligible trophies were imported during that time. Failing to do so meant that the FWS did not collect data, which is vital as many individuals or organisations are known to violate wildlife laws repeatedly.

9. Instead, the FWS often uses data from external organisations, including Safari Club International (SCI) – the biggest advocacy organisation for trophy hunting. At times, the FWS may not disclose the sources of data aside from authors without naming affiliation(s). Recent external evaluations of SCI ‘surveys’ found no scientific merit in any of them.

10. The report states the FWS is not using its position to ensure American trophy hunters are not making bad situations worse for African wildlife species.

Conclusions and recommendations

The benefits of trophy hunting cannot be assumed. There can be benefits, but only under specific conditions where corruption levels are low, legal frameworks are strong, and there is transparency regarding conservation funding practices.

American organisations need to do more to ensure that trophy hunting does not decimate struggling wildlife populations. Data collection from impartial and scientifically sound studies and the enforcement of permits is one way the FWS could assist African countries to conserve their wildlife.

In addition, the FWS should not allow imports without verifying that these imports enhance species conservation. Loopholes must be closed, and import permitting requirements must be tightened.

Finally, the report recommends that the trophy fees should be increased to fund scientific research and conservation and that trophies should only be imported from fair chase methods.

Tourists answer our 2016 African travel survey

Six safari questions answered by you:

We recently conducted a snap travel survey about six vexing questions that our travel clients and safari lodges are curious about. The interesting (and sometimes surprising) results are illustrated below. Thanks to all who participated, and here is the link to those who wish to do so now.

87% of you said YES to having children at safari lodges (we were surprised at this one), but the vast majority placed conditions on their approval.

We were equally surprised that 55% of you said NO when asked if wifi is essential on safari. During a previous survey, 68% of you told us you access the Internet for various reasons while on safari. Perhaps the difference lies in our use of the word ‘essential’ in this snap poll. The travel industry should take note of these statistics because the likely implication is that Internet access is an important factor when choosing your safari lodges.

79% of you prefer to be charged separately for drinks and 51% of you prefer to tip lodge staff directly, as opposed to via a communal tip box (2.5% do not tip at all). 81% feel that it’s unfair to charge single-person supplements, and a resounding 88% of you would pay a 1% voluntary conservation levy.

Our travelling audience

We know from a previous travel survey and ongoing audience monitoring that our audience is primarily from Europe / UK (29%), USA/Canada (26%) and South Africa (21%). We also know that 36% have travelled in Africa more than ten times and 33% between three and ten times.

Keep the passion

Full survey results below:

Q1: Should children be permitted at safari lodges?

Q2: Is it essential to have WiFi at your safari lodge?

Q3: Should alcoholic drinks be charged separately by lodges?

Q4: What about tipping guides and staff at your safari lodge?

Q5: Is it fair to charge single travellers a single-person supplement?

Q6: Would you pay a voluntary conservation levy of 1% of your lodge bill?

Find out about our ready-made safaris – or ask us to build one just for you.

Saving elephants

Laid on a mattress, covered in a warm woollen blanket, his chest rising and falling as he breathes, Murit sleeps soundly. Should he wake, a keeper is sleeping in a bunk above, ready to offer reassurance if he needs it. It’s a far cry from the weak and bruised baby with blood-red infected eyes that The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust (The DSWT) rescued in March 2015 after Murit was trapped in a well.

Murit was flown from Northern Kenya in a specially chartered aircraft to Kenya’s capital city, Nairobi. He was one of 28 orphaned baby elephants rescued by The DSWT in 2015 as part of their Orphans’ Project. Permanently on standby, the DSWT swings into action with veterinary supplies, including IV drips and milk, the minute that a call to rescue is received.

saving elephants — Baby Murit gets the best of care after a traumatic experience ©The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust

Once at the orphanage, a period of intensive care begins as keepers work together to form a new family for the orphan, replicating all the actions that the elephant’s mother or herd would have carried out. The keepers feed the orphans a specialist milk formula – developed over 28 years by Dr Dame Daphne Sheldrick DBE – to ensure they grow strong. As a highly emotional species, the babies receive regular reassurance from their keepers, who even lend their fingers and thumbs for the orphans to suck. The keepers also slather suncream on the youngest elephants and wrap them in blankets for comfort and warmth when it gets cold in the evenings.

The Nairobi Nursery will provide a home to these orphaned elephants for the first three years of their life, and they are cared for by the keepers around the clock. But just as children must take steps to independence, the orphans graduate to one of three reintegration centres, where they take up to seven years to learn how to live as a wild elephant. From meeting wild herds and orphans that are living back in the wild to learning elephant society etiquette, The DSWT’s reintegration centres provide a haven for orphans to make the gradual transition while in the safe presence of the keepers.

Kenya safari — Benjamin Kyalo, head keeper at Ithumba Reintegration Unit, connects with an elephant ©The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust

Threats facing elephants

Intelligence, teamwork and compassion are some attributes accredited to elephants, the world’s largest land mammal. With a whopping 22-month gestation period, herds that stay together for life, and an impressive memory to boot, it is difficult not to sing the praises of this species.

But the words ‘crop raider’ or ‘problem animal’ might also be heard among those living near elephants. Amongst dealers in China, elephants are described as a ‘source of ivory.’ These phrases are demonstrative of the myriad threats that face pachyderms. The demand for ivory has led to increased poaching activities, and human populations have grown so much that they have expanded into elephant ranges. As a result of these pressures, there are now less than 400,000 elephants across Africa.

Demand for carved ivory was almost negligible 20 years ago in Hong Kong, thanks to a ban on the international sale of ivory in 1989 after a global outcry. However, two ‘one-off sales’ in 1999 and 2008 caused the popularity of ivory to skyrocket, which had a devastating impact on elephants in Africa. Weak penalties for poaching and the misguided impression that elephant tusks can fall out naturally like teeth are also to blame. One hundred thousand elephants were killed for their tusks between 2010 and 2012, causing population declines of as much as two to three per cent per year.

At this rate, and without action, elephants could be extinct from the wild within our lifetime. But the writing is not yet on the wall for this species, and The DSWT has been uniquely positioned for almost 40 years to help save the species. Working tirelessly through projects that encompass anti-poaching, vet units, aerial surveillance and, of course, their world-renowned elephant orphanage that cares for elephant calves whose parents are poaching victims, they’re the first line of defence for elephants in Kenya.

Wildlife safari in Africa — Aerial surveillance of elephant herds pushing through dense vegetation in Nairobi National Park ©The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust

Big 5 safari — Wild elephants ©The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust

A bird’s-eye view

Flying high over the acacia trees and herds of elephants that roam the Tsavo ecosystem is Neville Sheldrick, one of the pilots that make up The DSWT’s Aerial Unit. It’s a privilege that’s not lost on him.

“While our ground teams understand the situation on the ground, their work limits them to a relatively small area of operation. In the Aerial Unit, we have the amazing opportunity to experience every corner of the Tsavo ecosystem and beyond,” explains Sheldrick.

Tsavo is comparable to the size of Wales or Massachusetts, so the ability to fly is a huge asset when protecting such a vast ecosystem. The unit consists of four fixed-wing aircraft and one helicopter, and they operate daily to look for and report illegal activity, check on elephant behaviour, locate injured wildlife and fly out vets to help them and drive elephants away from communities.

Their role is especially vital when you consider that elephants can roam up to 80km over a day. While scouting for food and water or using traditional migratory paths passed down from female to female, elephants do not discern man-made boundaries where a national park might end and a farmer’s plot begins.

Increasingly, elephants are being forced into direct contact with humans due to communities building on national parks’ borders, small-scale farmers planting in buffer zones, and herders bringing cattle into the park searching for food and water. The consequences of human activity are immense – elephants can be seriously injured, or their calves can be abandoned in the chaos of conflict, while poachers can hide amidst illegal herders.

Bringing elephants back from the brink

It’s a little-known fact that elephants snore. It sounds like a deep rumble. Dr Rono, a Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) vet, would know best as he is part of one of the DSWT/KWS Mobile Vet units. To date, the teams have treated more than 1,800 elephants for wounds caused by poisoned arrows, spears and snares.

Dr Limo heads up The DSWT/KWS Mara Vet Unit, which is one of four DSWT/KWS Mobile Vet Units that cover 15 of Kenya’s national parks between them, in addition to the SkyVet service, which transports on-call vets to emergencies in remote or unattended areas. Thanks to Dr Limo and his colleagues, injured elephants and other wildlife have a lifeline. Each unit is fully prepared to treat any injured animal, thanks to a custom-designed vehicle and all the necessary equipment, including a vaccine refrigerator, dart gun, VHF radios, GPS, camera and binoculars.

Kenya safari trip — Arrows confiscated by anti-poaching teams ©Joachim Schmeisser and The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust

Anaesthetic and a good aim (with a dart gun) are vital. Weighing up to six tonnes, a fully grown wild elephant can pose a real threat to anyone who comes into close proximity, especially when dealing with a protective mother, anxious herds or loyal friends hiding out in thorny bushes. Treatment depends on the wound – removing poisoned arrows can be a relatively simple operation, which takes about 15 minutes, whereas treating bullet wounds is a difficult task, as some bullets can become embedded deep in an elephant’s body and be impossible to retrieve.

“Determination and a will to save Kenya’s wild species has pushed my team and I to deliver in even the most challenging situations,” says Dr Limo. “We do it out of determination and a love for these animals. It requires a lot of caution and courage, but at the end of it all, you feel greatly satisfied that you have helped to save one of these massive animals whose kind are dwindling,” he explains.

Big 5 safari Kenya — The DSWT/KWS Vet Unit in action ©The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust

Safari in africa — The DSWT/KWS Mara Mobile Vet team save the day ©The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust

The fruits of their labour

A little elephant named Wiva is a testament to the fact that protecting, treating and caring for elephants can mean more than just saving one individual. Wiva is one of 18 wild-born calves to orphans that are now living back in the wild, and by giving each infant a second chance, as The DSWT did for Wiva’s mother, The DSWT’s Orphans’ Project also allows elephants to have their own wild-born young, which further helps a population that is in decline.

Wiva’s mum, Wendi, is one of 190 orphaned elephants that The DSWT has successfully hand-reared thanks to the pioneering efforts of their founder, Dr Dame Daphne Sheldrick DBE, who discovered the milk formula baby elephants need and who established the core principles that the keepers follow. This knowledge has also been shared with other orphanages and sanctuaries to help orphaned infant elephants elsewhere. The DSWT’s passion for the species is regularly shared with local communities through community outreach projects, including creating beehive fences to reduce human-wildlife conflict.

The importance of The DSWT Anti-Poaching Teams, Aerial Surveillance and Mobile Vet Units, together with their Saving Habitats project, which safeguards areas of biodiversity importance, is evident. Working together, they provide a safety net for the orphans and their wild kin.

How you can help

All the work of The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust is funded by generous donations from passionate individuals concerned about the future of our wildlife. Whether you donate to a specific project or a particular item like a bottle of milk, your donation can make a difference on the frontline of elephant conservation.

Visiting the DSWT’s Elephant Orphanage in Nairobi National Park is one way to better understand their work. Open every day between 11 am and midday for a small entrance fee of US$7, you can see the youngest elephants have their mud bath and milk feed and perhaps meet a muddy little elephant with whom to exchange hellos. Visitors can opt to stay at eco-lodges in the Kibwezi Forest, which help to fund the DSWT’s projects and are located close to the Ithumba Reintegration Unit. Alternatively, you can relax and unwind at Nairobi Tented Camp – the only accommodation in the national park – and then you don’t even have to leave the park!

But perhaps one of the best ways to get involved is to foster an orphaned elephant. You can choose an infant elephant from as little as US$50 a year and follow their journey through monthly email updates. As the perfect gift for children, wildlife lovers or even yourself, it’s one way to get to know some of the characters at the nursery and be part of their recovery, as well as help protect the species’ future.

Back to the future

The DSWT believes there are few greater rewards than helping one of the world’s most iconic animals. Increasingly, the world’s citizens and governments are coming to this realisation too.

While working tirelessly on the frontline to protect elephants, they’ve been campaigning to end all ivory trade and are happy that some hugely positive steps have been taken in the past year. The most important of which are the recent announcements by China to end its legal domestic ivory trade. This should hopefully pave a new era for the species and if promises prevail, everyone can hope to secure a future for Murit and his wild kin.

Find out about KENYA for your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

About the author

Having established and directed The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust’s UK charity in 2005, Rob Brandford’s passion for wildlife conservation stems from his deep, personal appreciation for nature and wild spaces.

With a particular fondness for elephants, Rob remains committed to educating the world about the species’ crisis so that we can guarantee them a future together.

Gallery: Reflections of Elephants

In May 2014, Africa lost one of its greatest treasures – Satao, a truly magnificent elephant. As a great tusker, he carried enormous ivory, with each tusk weighing nearly 50 kilogrammes (110 pounds), and he roamed the red dust bush of Tsavo National Park in Kenya for about 50 years. Satao was killed with a poisoned arrow, his face crudely hacked away, his tusks stolen, and his body left to rot. The impact of his untimely, wasteful death was felt around the globe.
Bobby-Jo Clow is a wildlife photographer based in Dubbo, Australia. Satao’s death became the genesis for her new book project – one befitting the legacy of such a magnificent animal. Reflections of Elephants combines Bobby-Jo’s photography with the written reflections of a diverse team of writers, including best-selling authors, award-winning poets, conservationists and elephant experts from around the globe.
The cover photo of this gallery portrays a Tsavo tusker surrounded by his askaris. ‘Askari’ is the Swahili word for a soldier and is a term often given to young bull elephants found in the company of larger and older bulls. These young bulls learn many things from their more experienced teachers, lessons that they will need to learn to become a dominant bull. In return, these askaris provide company and security to the older bulls, detecting threats and dealing with dangers.

Find out about your next safari here – be it a ready-made safari, or ask us to build one just for you.

Bobby-Jo spent the morning in the Tsavo Trust aircraft called Ace, from which she photographed some of the elephant herds from above. Proceeds raised from Reflections of Elephants will provide fuel for ‘Ace’. © Bobby-Jo Clow

This is Bobby-Jo’s favourite image from the book. She waited 90 minutes for this bull to come close enough to their vehicle, and then he came so close that she had to use a wide-angle lens to take this photo of him. © Bobby-Jo Clow

A lone bull at dusk in a national park in Tanzania. This moment is representative of Heaven on Earth for the photographer. © Bobby-Jo Clow

Bobby-Jo waited an hour and a half for these bulls to come close enough so that she was able to take this shot. © Bobby-Jo Clow

This photo is of a famous tusker, which is a term given to an elephant whose tusks weigh in at 100 pounds each or more. © Bobby-Jo Clow

Reflections of Elephants cover

Reflections of Elephants will feature a foreword by New York Times bestseller, Bradley Trevor Greive AM, and the book will raise funds to protect elephants, especially the last great tuskers of Tsavo. All profits from book sales and a percentage of the money raised in crowdfunding efforts will be donated to The Askari Project – a fundraising initiative supporting the efforts of The Tsavo Trust. The money will help The Tsavo Trust with their anti-poaching operations and monitoring the last few great tuskers of the region, primarily through the use of aerial surveillance.
So, if you have loved what you’ve seen in this gallery, click here to buy this magnificent book, and play your part in helping to protect Africa’s elephants.
The cover photo of this book was taken at a photographic hide in Botswana, where Bobby-Jo spent a few days waiting for the elephants to turn up at the waterhole. She was finally rewarded on her very last afternoon when the light was gorgeous, and there wasn’t a breath of wind. The moment she clicked the shutter, Bobby-Jo knew she had her cover shot!

6 things to do in the Robertson Wine Valley

Living in the Cape, we are spoiled regarding gorgeous winelands. From the swanky Constantia Valley to historical Franschhoek and stunningly scenic Stellenbosch, we really have our pick of the grapes. But for me, the lesser-known and explored Robertson Wine Valley, has always held a special place in my heart.

A little further out of the way than the Cape’s more famous wine routes, the towns of Robertson, McGregor, Montagu, Ashton and Bonnievale combine to make up an area that features stunning scenery with awesome opportunities to wine and dine, all led by the most friendly wine-makers, chefs and farm owners.

The fun and fabulous Wacky Wine Weekend was held recently, and this festival only reminded me of all I love about this area. Here are just six of my favourite things to do in the Robertson Wine Valley:

1. Learn from the wine masters

A great thing about Wacky Wine is that farms around the valley open their doors to give you a glimpse behind the scenes as wine-makers and chefs let you in on their secrets. This year’s event saw visitors indulge in underground cellar tastings at Weltevrede and De Wetshof, while those in the know explained the finer details of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. And the good news is that many of the farms offer these types of experiences year-round.

cellar-tastings-robertson — ©Robertson Wine Valley/Breede Photography

Not that into wine? Then try a unique and personal grappa tasting experience at Tanagra with the owners of this boutique-style winery, or experience a tutored tour and tasting of the Klipdrift brandy distillery – nothing wakes one up like a brandy and ginger ale in the morning!

underground-cellar-tastings-robertson — ©Robertson Wine Valley/Breede Photography

2. A plethora of wine pairings

The farms in the Robertson Wine Valley offer an array of delicious pairings that make your wine-tasting experiences all that more exciting.

We indulged in a delicious homemade biscuit and wine tastings at Bonnievale Wines, luxurious chocolate and wine pairing at Rosendal, as well as a decadent array of goodies courtesy of the ‘fan pairing’ at Van Loveren, which pairs wines, a cream liqueur and even a wine slushy with some tasty nibbles. Van Loveren’s newest pairing, the ‘Fiver Party Plate’, also comes highly recommended as you get to pair some uniquely flavoured ciders with candyfloss, cake pops and cookies.

van-loveren-robertson-wine-tasting — ©Janine Avery

3. Get back to nature in the Breede Valley

The Robertson Wine Valley festivals allow visitors to enjoy the farms in their entirety. During Wacky Wine, we enjoyed a 4×4 nature bumble at Jan Harmsgat while Ashton Kelder offered game drives, and guided hikes with an experienced mountaineer and horticulturist were available at Wolvendrift. Earlier in the year, during the Hands-On Harvest Festival, we enjoyed tractor rides and potjie making in the vineyards at Graham Beck, while all year-round, the area offers a host of gorgeous hiking trails and scenic spots for picnics and days out in the sun.

breede-river-robertson — ©Robertson Wine Valley/Breede Photography

The Breede River runs through the valley, so canoeing and swimming are the order of the day during summertime, while boat cruises on the Breede at Viljoensdrift are definitely one of the highlights of the region – especially during the Wine on the River Festival in October.

breede-river-robertson-boat — ©Robertson Wine Valley/Breede Photography

4. A splash of culture

The farms and restaurants in the Robertson Wine Valley often host fabulous local bands and artists, so you can sip your wine in rhythm to a relaxed beat.

robertson-wine-music — ©Robertson Wine Valley/Breede Photography

At the Wacky Wine Weekend, they really pulled out the stops, with each farm seeming to have found some hidden talent. Lord’s Wines in McGregor even offered private concerts and movie nights, while Karen Zoid and Majozi graced the stage at Graham Beck. On a normal night in the valley, you are bound to find a budding guitarist strumming a tune at a cosy restaurant while local art brings a touch of colour to the walls of various eateries and tasting rooms.

wacky-wine-robertson — ©Robertson Wine Valley/Breede Photography

5. Unleash your adventurous side

At this year’s Wacky Wine Weekend, Robertson Winery and Impact Adventures hosted the 10th edition of their mountain bike event with four exciting routes for riders.

mountain-biking-robertson-valley — ©Robertson Wine Valley/Breede Photography

All year round, this area is a firm favourite for mountain bikers, while a range of other adventurous activities can also be found in the valley. From kayaking down the river to hikes in the mountains or rock climbing and abseiling in Montagu, the Breede Valley offers something for everyone.

Impact Adventures also runs adventure camps and team-building weekends for those looking for an adrenaline-filled getaway.

swing-impact-adventures — ©Impact Adventures

6. Food, glorious food in the Robertson Wine Valley

Last but not least, you can’t have wining without dining! Spoilt for choice in the Robertson Wine Valley, a host of lovely delis and outdoor restaurants offer the opportunity to kick back and relax with a bottle of bubbles. This weekend, a braai-fondue experience with a magnificent selection of Namibian meats could be found at Rietvallei, while at Rosendal Winery, a twist to the normal dining experience was offered with a ‘guess the meal’ dinner.

robertson-wine-valley-food — ©Robertson Wine Valley/Breede Photography

Excelsior’s Deli offers gourmet ‘roosterbrood’ sandwiches any day of the week, and you can also blend, cork and bottle your own creation in their tasting room before sitting down to your picnic on the lawn overlooking their dam.

robertson-wine-bottling — ©Robertson Wine Valley/Breede Photography

Then, for those who can’t do wine without olives, Marbrin Olive Growers offers unique, up-close tours of their olive farm and the chance to learn about how olives and olive oils are processed.

All in all, life in the Robertson Wine Valley is about slowing down, enjoying the journey, and not racing around from one farm to another. It’s about connecting with the land and with the people that call this area home, and it is well worth the visit any time of year.

Find out about the Cape Winelands blended with great safari ideas – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

The wilds of East Africa – photo gallery

The magic of Kenya and Tanzania is stronger than ever in this selection of evocative black-and-white photographs by Federico Veronesi.

In the cover photo above, a lion enjoys the warm rays of the sun that have finally broken through the clouds in the Serengeti National Park. This male and his two brothers have recently moved into this new territory where many females reside. They are young, healthy, and in their prime, so they will hopefully sire many cubs in the months ahead.

While driving around a croton bush surrounded by the vast open plains of the Maasai Mara National Reserve, I frequently stopped to listen to the alarm calls from birds or dik-diks that might reveal a predator hidden in the bushes. For a long time, nothing happened, and the air was mostly silent. Then suddenly, a loud call from a slate-coloured shrike broke the silence. A few seconds later, it happened again.

I slowly drove closer, but I couldn’t see anything. I tried to pinpoint the bird’s location to localise the area, and eventually, I found it perched on top of a bush, looking down into the thicket. I turned the engine off and waited, binoculars in hand, trying to catch a rustle in the undergrowth. Then, finally, something started moving deep inside. Two brownish feline caracals – a mother and a fully grown cub – became visible. I looked harder and noticed a freshly killed impala fawn, and took this photo when the cub approached the carcass to start feeding.

I parked on the edge of the dry Amboseli lake early one morning as the sun struggled to shine through a layer of clouds. From a small elevation, I scanned the opposite side of the lake using a pair of binoculars. I saw wildebeests, zebras, gazelles, and a couple of giraffes walking across the landscape. And then I noticed some small dust devils rise in the far distance. Finally, huge dark shapes appeared through the hazy air. Elephants.

These gentle giants cross the lake frequently to reach the water points and the lush marshes in the heart of Amboseli National Park. A matriarch led her family on this long journey, which took them about one hour over hard, cracked soil. They followed ancient trails that their ancestors had used for thousands of years. Sometimes, they paused to smell other elephants’ droppings, to see who had passed by before them. I stopped far away and waited for them to come toward me. It was a magnificent and timeless scene.

I encountered a small group of southern white rhinos on the grassy shores of Lake Nakuru one morning. The sun hadn’t yet cleared the hills in the east, and a soft mist was still hanging over the water. The incessant call of the flamingos was the only sound I could hear. Most of the rhinos were still resting, but one of them was awake. I waited for the sun to shine on its thick skin, highlighting the beautiful texture, before taking this photo.

Although they aren’t originally from East Africa, southern white rhinos have reproduced successfully in Lake Nakuru National Park after having been transferred there from South Africa in the 1990s. They have bred so well that many have been translocated to other parks and conservancies in Kenya over the years.

Huge rocky outcrops rise in the middle of the endless plains of the Serengeti National Park. These are called kopjes, and they are an excellent home for the many lion prides that inhabit these lands.

Early one morning, four lionesses and three males were actively following each other up and down the rocks after it had rained almost incessantly the previous day. While the morning sun struggled to shine through the lingering clouds, this male lion paused on his way down to survey his kingdom.

The sun appeared below the clouds before sinking behind the horizon in the Maasai Mara one late afternoon. The light in Africa on the equator is only good for a very short time after sunrise or before sunset, and in these moments, I hate being caught out on the plains without a subject. In these moments, the light becomes such a beautiful and dramatic element that it can make the portrait of any animal fascinating.

On this particular day, two beautiful buffalo bulls were sitting in the middle of the plains. I approached them slowly to allow them to become habituated to me, as I wanted to get quite close to them to frame what I felt were their most impressive features – their horns and eyes. I wanted the light coming from behind them to emphasise the texture of the horns and to reflect on the pupil. And my vision came together in this image.

It was a cold and gloomy day in a remote area of the Mara. Just as I was about to reach the bottom of a valley, I noticed a cheetah to my left – it was a female, and she was stalking an impala just ahead of her. As she crept forward, I realised that there was another cheetah behind her – and another one. There were six adolescent cubs in total, which were all almost as big as their mother but still had fur on the back of their necks.

I parked and watched the mother cheetah explode in a fantastic chase. As soon as the impala was on the ground, the young cheetahs boldly ran across the gulley to reunite with their wonderful mother. She has kept all of them safe and healthy for 14 months in the heart of lion country, which is quite an extraordinary achievement.

These cubs are now ready to fend for themselves, and their mother probably needs some rest. As the young cheetahs voraciously feed, she sneaks out of their sight, and then she is gone. After feeding, they look around, wondering where their mother is, anxiously awaiting her return, which will never occur. From now on, they’ll be on their own.

On a cloudy afternoon in August, I was driving on a slippery track along the edge of a forest in Lake Nakuru National Park. Soon, it started pouring, and I knew I had to pay attention to the track not to get stuck for the umpteenth time. However, I also tried still to keep an eye on every branch and every bush until, finally, I spotted the unmistakable shape of a feline on a fallen log.

It was a leopard in the pouring rain, a huge female that I have seen many times and has two fully grown daughters who are also often seen in the area. The rains probably woke her up from her afternoon rest, and she stretched and licked the water off her fur. Then suddenly, a five-month-old cub, which I had never seen before, climbed on the log. She licked it for a while before the cub descended to play on a dry bush at the tree’s base. Soon, she jumped down, too, and together, they disappeared into the forest’s depths.

During the wet season, big herds of elephants gather around the swamps of Amboseli to feed on the fresh green grass. As food is abundant and especially nutritious during this period, this is also the peak time for socialisation.

The youngsters and calves are energetic, often engaging in games and play-fights. Many females also come in estrus around this time, attracting males from the entire ecosystem. Fights frequently erupt between males who are not willing to acknowledge submission. However, none of these males will dare to challenge the famous big tusker, Tim – Amboseli’s biggest and most dominant male.

One early morning, I spotted a huge herd of wildebeest heading towards the opposite bank of the Talek River in the Maasai Mara National Reserve, and their intention to cross over was clear.

As the sun struggled to shine through a layer of clouds, the animals descended the banks with little hesitation. The water was very shallow, so there wasn’t a massive danger in terms of crocodiles lying in wait or fast-flowing rapids, but the banks were very steep and slippery. Lions and leopards also often ambush the animals in these situations, taking advantage of the channels dug by hippos.

However, on this particular day, the crossing went smoothly. The animals ran across the river in their thousands, but when I turned around, I realised that those that had successfully crossed the river had grouped just above the banks instead of dispersing across the plains. The first animals to cross over had stopped and looked intently in one direction. I looked through my binoculars and saw a lone male cheetah ambling by, not actively hunting but still posing a great enough threat to halt the natural flow of the migration.

The air was chilly on the morning that I took this photo, and I headed towards Lake Nakuru to be there way before the sun rose. When I reached my spot on the lakeshore, the barely lit mist lingered on the water, enveloping a colony of lesser flamingos.

I watched as the light intensified in the east and on the lake, silhouetting the flamingos against this ethereal layer of a shroud. On the far shore, some flamingos abruptly took off, while the ones near me noticed the alarm calls and looked up. A spotted hyena was hunting along the shore, causing panic among the birds.

On the shores of Lake Nakuru, a daily ritual occurs at around sunrise. As the flocks of lesser flamingos feed peacefully in the shallow waters, a couple of spotted hyenas cross the plains and quickly approach the sandy shore.

The nearby birds look up at them warily. As the first hyena enters the water at a steady pace, the flamingos start walking away in unison. The hyena then sprints toward them at full speed, and its endurance is impressive, but all the flamingos are quick enough to take off before the hyena reaches any of them.

The sky turns pink as the flamingos fly along the lake’s edge to another shore. The hyena stops and looks at the now-empty section of the surrounding lake. Unabated, it heads back to the shallow waters and walks towards other flamingos instead. Though it seems like an almost impossible task, this carnivore will try three times again before retreating to the forest to rest as the day gets warm.

It was early morning in the Mara after a night of heavy rain. I ventured out onto the plains, my tyres slipping on the wet track, intending to cross the river once I reached it. However, I found it to be full of raging water as a result of a flash flood. My plans for the morning quickly changed, and I decided to stay on the same side of the river as I was already on.

After a short while, I was thrilled to find a couple of amorous lions lying in the wet grass. Flies buzzed around them in droves, and they mated approximately every 15 minutes. This continued for a period of five to seven days.

I am always fascinated by the explosion of violence that marks the end of each bout of intercourse, with both male and female growling at each other with bared teeth. Peace is restored immediately after this, and the female generally turns on her back to ease ovulation while the male looks around before lying down again.

I was driving along the Mara River with a dark sky hanging over my head and a cold wind blowing from the northeast. When it neared midday, the clouds broke into heavy rain, and the storm caught a pod of basking hippos by surprise. Initially, they didn’t move but as the rain increased, they got up individually and returned to the water.

Their enormous, shiny backs formed an interesting composition as they were all hit by the rain next to each other. I opened the window just enough to sneak the lens out and take some images, but in the space of just a few seconds, both the camera and I were completely soaked.

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About the author

Born in Italy in 1975, Federico Veronesi is a wildlife photographer who has been fascinated by large African mammals since childhood.

In 2002, he moved to Kenya to follow his dream of living full-time amongst them. Since then, he has spent most of his days in the wilderness of East Africa, photographing the wildlife day after day, following their lives, and watching their stories unfold against the majestic backdrop of the African savannah.

Federico’s work spans from black and white to colour. He always looks to blend light, emotion, contrast, scenery and atmosphere into evocative images. His coveted prints are now sold worldwide, and the BBC regularly uses his images in their books to accompany their much-loved nature documentaries.

In his first book, Light and Dust, which was published in 2015, Federico reveals animals’ most intimate behaviour and emotions, and their resilience and beauty, as well as the wilderness that they live in. To do so, he sought the most dramatic weather conditions – morning mists, dust storms, heavy rains or rays of light shining through the clouds – and followed the animals on endless journeys along ancient trails, across dry lakes and raging rivers, and watched them fight for survival with undying strength and determination.

Federico is also a professional guide certified by the Kenya Professional Guides Association. He organises and leads photographic safaris in East Africa and other African countries.

SANParks concerned about the use of mobile apps for wildlife sightings

The introduction of mobile apps for wildlife sightings – designed to share information on interesting animal sightings in Kruger National Park – has become a major cause for concern for South African National Parks (SANParks).

The rise in the use of these applications has resulted in an increased rate of lawlessness in the parks, including speeding, congestion at sightings as well as road kills caused by guests rushing to and congregating around these sightings.

This is according to SANParks Managing Executive: Tourism Development & Marketing, Hapiloe Sello, who said SANParks has been inundated with scores of customer complaints emanating from the use of these mobile applications.

According to Sello, since the arrival of mobile apps for wildlife sightings, authorities have received a considerable increase in reports of speeding cases, road kills, and road rage incidents at sightings. “As an organisation, we appreciate the fact that technology has evolved and that guests are taking advantage of it. However, this compromises the values of good game viewing in national parks.”

She said, “SANParks holds a leading position globally in the conservation of biodiversity and the management of eco-tourism; it would therefore be regrettable for SANParks to turn a blind eye to trends that reverse the gains made in these fields.”

“Most guests appreciate the leisurely drive through the parks and the potential reward of a good sighting as a key element of the visitor experience. This is an experience that SANParks commits to protecting, and therefore, the usage of these mobile applications is in direct contradiction to the ethos of responsible tourism espoused by SANParks.”

“We at SANParks discourage the use of these mobile applications as they tend to induce an unhealthy sense of eagerness for visitors to break the rules and we are exploring legal mechanisms to curtail the use of sightings apps,” concludes Sello.

Why Etosha is the perfect place to sketch wildlife

I was looking for a unique African wildlife experience, and the Africa Geographic team suggested that a Namibia safari to Etosha National Park would be the perfect place to start! By Francisco Hernandez

After a very pleasant flight over Africa, with incredible views, I picked up my car in Windhoek and drove to Okaukuejo Camp in Etosha National Park, arriving shortly after sunset. As I drove through the main gates to explore the surroundings of Okaukuejo Camp, my first impressions were summarised in one word – amazing.

In Okaukuejo, as you approach the waterhole on foot, you start hearing sounds that are reminiscent of an African wildlife documentary and the feeling that envelops you is one of calm. The meditative state is interrupted only by the sound of water splashing, animal grunts and birdsong.

Only once you reach the banks of the waterhole does your mind start to take in the tremendous beauty of the surroundings. I could only stare in disbelief. At first, it was difficult to comprehend that what I was witnessing could be real. The animals were completely disinterested in us and went about their business as if we weren’t there.

For three days straight, I drew. The waterhole teemed with wildlife, from sprightly springbok to enormous elephants and oryx, kudu, giraffe and many more. I scarcely put down my pencil.

Etosha — Giraffe head study by Francisco Hernandez

Sketching wildlife is notoriously difficult; animals are not in the habit of posing. But here, it was often the case that there were so many animals in one area that if the animal you were drawing moved, there were 10 others in the same position that you could focus on instead. Sometimes, it was necessary to practice a bit of patience, but ultimately, another animal almost always took up the same position a few moments later. Frequently, the animals often remained in the vicinity of the waterhole for a long enough time to be able to complete some sketches.

Springbok Drinking by Francisco Hernandez — Springbok drinking by Francisco Hernandez

Next to the waterhole, there was a big tree under which hundreds of springboks spent hours resting and ruminating in the shade. On the same tree, I even saw a steppe eagle, a black-chested snake eagle and a pied crow.

There are many reasons why Okaukuejo is a special place to draw wildlife. Firstly, the wildlife comes almost continuously to the waterhole to drink, and there is a large open vista without any vegetation, which means that you can continually observe the movements of hundreds of animals easily. In addition, as there are so many pairs of watchful eyes keeping a lookout in the vicinity, the waterhole is not the best hunting ground for predators, which makes the animals feel safe and calm.

There are many places to observe and draw comfortably while sitting on wooden benches under the shade of trees or from a high, sheltered observatory. A roof is an important component for those planning to draw for several hours. The campsite is close enough to the waterhole that one can easily walk there in a few minutes.

For most of the day, visitors prefer to leave the campsite and waterhole on game drives through the park, which means that one can be completely absorbed in art creation with few distractions. I have to say this was one of the best natural drawing studios I have ever had the pleasure to spend time at.

Guineafowl in Etosha — Guineafowl drinking in Etosha by Francisco Hernandez

Find out about Etosha National Park for your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

Gallery: Samburu Tribe

Photographer Daniel Schuhmacher recently visited the Samburu National Reserve in Kenya, where he had the opportunity to spend time with a local Samburu tribe and enjoy the incredible wildlife safaris that the region has to offer.

A local guide took Daniel to a Samburu village, where he was welcomed by the tribe, which showed him around the village in exchange for a bit of money. The local guide explained that any money earned from tourism is then shared with the rest of the village, and a big part goes towards children’s education.

The Samburu people are related to the Maasai and share a few traditions, but they inhabit Kenya’s north-central plains, whereas the Maasai are concentrated in the region surrounding the Maasai Mara. Both tribes are thought to have come from Sudan in the 15th century, but they parted ways when the Samburu settled just north of the equator in Kenya’s Rift Valley area while their Maasai relatives moved further south. The Samburu language is similar to the Maa language spoken by the Maasai, and both tribes are semi-nomadic pastoralists who value cattle. However, the Samburu are thought to adhere more to cultural traditions than their Maasai kin, as their more remote location means they are slightly less affected by modern trends.
The village members that Daniel visited showed him their houses and animals and demonstrated their traditional dances, which are a significant part of the Samburu way of life. While Daniel was in the Samburu village, he was given permission to take a few pictures – the results of which he put together in this photography series.
Cover image by ©Daniel Schuhmacher

Upon Daniel’s arrival, he received a warm welcome from the Samburu men in front of their village, and this photo symbolises his introduction to the different way of life of this brightly attired tribe.

This photo is of the tribal leader, who was happy to pose for this great portrait.

The Samburu and Maasai tribes are known for their beautifully beaded jewellery, and both men and women adorn themselves with earrings, bracelets, anklets and necklaces. The number of beads or necklaces that a woman wears is said to be indicative of her beauty, wealth and status.
This photo shows an older woman selling some of her handiwork to tourists to earn money to support her community. Traditionally, the Samburu people depended on their cattle to survive, but the impacts of drought on livestock numbers have meant that the tribe, like their Maasai cousins, has become more involved in the tourism sector.

The Samburu warriors jump very high when they dance to show their strength. While they do this, the tribe’s women sing and dance in the background to support the warriors’ efforts.

The houses of the Samburu tribe are built from materials that can be sourced locally, such as sticks, mud and cow dung. They also tend to use bits of plastic – collected from waste products – to offer additional protection from the rain.
The manyattas (settlements) cater to the Samburu people’s polygamous system of marriage, and each manyatta is home to about four or five families, with each wife having her own house. Acacia thorn bushes then protect the manyatta to protect the families and their cattle from any roaming predators.

During his visit to the tribal village, the community showed Daniel how they live. This man took him inside his house so that he could see what it looked like on the inside – it had a bed, a kitchen and a small goat.

The Samburu tribe has a patriarchal system wherein the elders decide how many wives a man can have. Generally speaking, the women take care of collecting food and firewood, cooking, child-rearing and craftsmanship, while men are responsible for cattle herding and security

Some of the men showcased their survival skills with regard to making a fire from scratch.

During his visit, Daniel found that many of the young warriors enjoyed posing in front of the camera, which was great for him as a photographer.

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ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHER

Daniel Schuhmacher is a self-taught photographer from Germany who has a love for nature and animals and an infinite passion for taking pictures. In his travels, he finds himself always hunting for the best light, and he makes it his goal to photograph the places, the people and the things that he loves the most.

Walking with the Maasai

It was July 2014, and I was in Kenya’s Mara North Conservancy having a cup of tea and a homemade scone (yes, really!) with the manager of one of the Maasai Mara. We chatted about hiking, and he told me how, just that morning, he’d walked for miles through the conservancy. This was a revelation for me.

My experiences of bushwalks in much of East Africa were generally confined to very brief strolls close to the safety of the camp. And now here I was, being told it was entirely possible to hike for hours, or even days, across these wildlife-filled savannahs.

That evening, I casually mentioned the conversation to my wife and to my surprise, she suggested that I return to the Mara area one day to “spend a while walking and staying in Maasai villages and then write a book about it.” It was at that moment that the idea of the Walking with the Maasai project was born to gain a deeper understanding of contemporary Maasai life and the impact of 21st-century trends, conservation, political pressures and tourism on them.

Stuart Butler and his Maasai companion, Josphat Mako, walk through the region that is famed for its great migration ©Stuart Price — Stuart Butler and his Maasai companion, Josphat Mako, walk through the region that is famed for its great migration of wildebeest and zebra ©Stuart Price

In May 2015, a year after my tea and scones conversation, I set off on a five-week walk across a part of Kenya’s Maasai lands with Josphat Mako, a Maasai friend who worked as a guide in the Mara. Our walk began at the highest point of the Lebtero Hills, which are a densely forested, remote and very traditional corner of Maasailand. From here, we walked westwards along the Kenya-Tanzania border to the edge of the famous Maasai Mara National Reserve. We hadn’t been able to get permission to walk through the reserve itself, so when we reached the edge of the reserve, we veered north and walked through community land until we got to the hot springs at Maji Moto. Here, we turned south-west, then walked clean across the renowned Olarro, Naboisho, Olare Motorogi, Mara North and the Lemek wildlife conservancies, which are essentially private game reserves that together constitute some of the finest wildlife habitats in East Africa. Our walk eventually ended on the banks of the Mara River at the foot of the Oloololo Escarpment.

takig-photos-maasai-stuart-price-make-it-kenya — Keeping a close eye on their surroundings using different devices ©Stuart Price, Make It Kenya

sunset-silhouette-walking-maasai-stuart-price-make-it-kenya — Sunset in the Mara eco-system ©Stuart Price, Make It Kenya

Enjoying the journey

The point of this project was not so much the walk itself – especially as I don’t know how far we even walked – but rather the opportunity it presented for me to get to know the Maasai people and their culture, as well as the landscapes and animals that they live with. Before I set off on the walk, I vowed not to be tied to walking a certain amount of kilometres a day or sticking religiously to a predetermined route. I wanted to be able to deviate from a path as and when I felt like it to take in as many interesting encounters as possible.

Along the way, we visited and slept in numerous Maasai villages and spent as much time as possible with the Maasai, interviewing them and learning what we could of their traditional culture and their contemporary lifestyles. But it wasn’t all about the Maasai. By walking at a leisurely pace, I hoped also to understand something about the landscapes and wildlife of the region. On the nights when we weren’t guests of the Maasai, we had the excitement of camping in the bush with the animals or, once we were inside the Maasai Mara conservancies, where bush camping is banned. There were no villages to stay in; we stayed as guests at some of the safari camps, which gave me the chance to talk conservation and tourism with camp managers, guides, staff and field workers, and to visit some of their community projects.

maasai-women-mirror-stuart-butler — Reflections of the Maasai ©Stuart Butler

sunset-walking-maasailand-stuart-price-make-it-kenya — Walking in the renowned golden light of the region ©Stuart Price, Make It Kenya

maasai-jewellery — Beaded jewellery worn by the Maasai ©Stuart Butler

A rapidly changing culture

Over the weeks, I interviewed dozens of people, and I always tried to keep my interviewees as broad in interest and conflicting in views as possible. If one day I interviewed a traditional Maasai healer, then the next I spoke to a Maasai doctor working in a clinic. If one afternoon, I sat in the shade of a tree chatting with a hunter then the following day, I would meet someone working in the field of conservation. We met religious leaders, warriors, biologists, activists, scientists, artists, politicians, vision seekers, TV personalities, tourist industry representatives, shepherds, housewives and many others. I spoke to elderly Maasai about days past, and I listened, spellbound, as they recounted tales of cattle rustling and hunting lion and ostrich with spears to prove their manhood. However, I also spoke to an equal number of young Maasai – the ‘Digital Maasai’ as the elders called them – for whom stories of the old ways were as exotic-sounding as they were for me.

If one thing became clear through all of these conversations, it was that Maasai culture was in the process of rapid change and that if I had wanted to catch the last of the old lifestyles, then I was probably ten years too late. Even the famous Maasai moran (warriors) were now almost a relic of a bygone age, and most of those long flowing locks of hair are now made of string, while the lion mane headdresses tend to be hand-me-downs from fathers and grandfathers. In fact, in the whole course of our walk, we only encountered three or four genuine Maasai moran, and Josphat and Patrick, another Maasai friend I was walking with at the time, were so excited at meeting ‘real’ moran that they asked if they could take pictures of them on their camera phones. The moran declined!

For me, this clash of globalisation and its impact on Maasai culture was one of the most fascinating aspects of the walk. Still, of course, nobody can walk across the Maasai lands without wildlife featuring strongly.

maasai-cattle-holding-hands-stuart-butler — Two cultures go hand-in-hand ©Stuart Butler

maasai-lion-mane-headdress-stuart-butler — A traditional lion mane headdress ©Stuart Butler

maasai-motorbike-stuart-butler — A modern means of movement ©Stuart Butler

Local Encounters

Sometimes, these wildlife encounters were simply fantastic. Walking for hours over the savannah as huge herds of zebra and wildebeest parted for us as we strolled by was undoubtedly a highlight. Walking also allowed us to see all the little creatures we’d have missed in a vehicle – the ants and tortoises, the butterflies and lizards. Other encounters were less heart-warming, though. Meeting the Maasai family who’d lost their three-year-old son to a leopard attack was the clearest such example. There were also the numerous families I spoke with who seemed caught in a never-ending cycle of conflict with hyenas, lions or leopards raiding their cattle bomas at night and elephants destroying their crops.

The issue of human-elephant conflict is an important one to consider ©Stuart Butler — Human-elephant conflict is a very real issue for the Maasai people ©Stuart Butler

Over the weeks that we walked, we met dozens of conservationists, scientists and concerned individuals working hard to protect what’s left of Kenya’s wildlife heritage. That they’re doing a sterling job is undoubted. On my many previous visits to the Mara region, I’ve seen the landscapes and wildlife through the prism of a safari vehicle and through the eyes of whichever expert wildlife guide was with me at the time. After driving around the conservancies and the Maasai Mara National Reserve, I had always been left with the impression that these vast spaces were home to healthy wildlife populations.

On the other hand, walking through those same areas opened my eyes to another reality. Protected areas that I had once imagined to be nearly endless suddenly appeared very small when I realised I could walk clean across a conservancy in a day. Human interference, though a part of the environment ever since man’s earliest ancestors first swung out of the trees, was undeniably intense and had an increasingly severe impact. All around the edges of the protected zones, land is being demarcated, fences are going up, development is taking place, wildlife migration routes are being disrupted, human-wildlife conflict is increasing and, close to the Maasai Mara National Reserve itself, resentment against the reserve and conservation is substantial.

maasai-giraffe-stuart-butler — The spots of Maasai giraffe – one of three subspecies of giraffe in Kenya ©Stuart Butler

walking-maasai-gazelle-stuart-price-make-it-kenya — Walking in harmony with nature ©Stuart Price, Make It Kenya

hyena-maasailand-stuart-butler — An unperturbed hyena passes by ©Stuart Butler

The importance of conservancies

However, in and around the conservancies, where local communities are more involved and gain more benefits from safari tourism and conservation, the attitude is generally more positive.

It’s no secret that populations of some species are crashing, and I knew all this before I set out on the walk. However, although I didn’t plan on any daring encounters with potentially dangerous animals, both Josphat and I had expected that we would bump into big cats, buffalos and elephants by walking so many kilometres over these grasslands – whether we liked it or not. But as the Mara River and the end of our walk came into view, I was struck by the overwhelming realisation that we had walked so far but had only encountered on foot one elephant, a handful of buffalo and not a single, solitary cat. When we mentioned this to older Maasai, the reaction was always the same – they shook their heads and told us how when they were younger, they would encounter these animals on an almost daily basis as they walked with their cattle. They invariably told us that they had seen the number of animals falling over the years, but then, without fail, they always expressed surprise and dismay that after five weeks, we had not seen a single lion as we walked.

If one thing became clear from our walk, it was that there were many very concerned people, Maasai and others, working to preserve Kenya’s wild places and wildlife. It was apparent to me that the conservancies could only be a good thing, but it was also clear that right now, they are simply not large enough. If we want to save the wildlife of the Mara ecosystem, then the conservancies need to grow and multiply, and they need to do so quickly, or there will be nothing much left to protect.

Stuart and Joseph come across a lone elephant bull ©Stuart Price, Make It Kenya — Stuart and Joseph come across a lone elephant bull on their journey ©Stuart Price, Make It Kenya

walking-with-maasai-stuart-butler — A Maasai wears a traditional red shuka, and the colour is believed to scare off lions ©Stuart Butler

maasailand-stuart-butler — Surveying the vast lands surrounding the national reserve ©Stuart Butler

giraffe-silhouette-stuart-butler — Silhouettes at sunset ©Stuart Butler

maasai-stuart-butler — Conservancies are the way forward to help the Maasai communities and the wildlife ©Stuart Butler

Find out about KENYA for your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

About the author

Stuart is a writer, photographer and the author of the Lonely Planet Kenya guidebook, as well as numerous other Africa and Asia titles for Lonely Planet, Rough Guides and Bradt.

Once We Were Lions, a book about this walk, the Maasai, wildlife and conservation, will be published in late 2016. At the same time, a travelling photographic exhibition and a series of speaking dates by Stuart and Josphat will take place.

Diving with potato bass

Potato bass are probably the most curious fish of all. While scuba diving on reefs on the east coast of South Africa and Mozambique, you are almost guaranteed a close encounter with this massive fish, which commonly grows up to 1.5m in length – making them one of the largest of all the coral reef predators in the region.

Also known as potato groupers, they are generally harmless and quite friendly towards scuba divers. Many times, you will find yourself literally face-to-face with one of them. They tend to approach divers and hang around the group, enjoying all the attention. As an underwater photographer, you cannot ask for a more amenable subject as they will provide you with all the angles and poses you need for a full shoot.

The situation may, however, get slightly nerve-wracking when you stop paying attention to them, as potato bass can get jealous and start bothering you by trying to nibble on any loose pieces of equipment hanging from your dive gear! Groupers don’t have big sharp-edged teeth but do have rows of small needle-like teeth, so anything that comes into their enormous mouth does not get out, so caution is advised. While this is an extreme situation, in most cases, you will find them amazing companions that may stay with you during the whole dive, providing great photos and broad smiles all around after the dive.

Potato bass are territorial, and often there are one or two individuals that frequent the same dive site on a reef

Potato bass facts:

– They are one of the largest predators on a coral reef

– They primarily hunt at night

– Inside their massive mouth are rows of tiny pointy teeth, which hold prey inside

– Prey is swallowed whole

– They can change the shade of their skin to reflect their mood

– They are very inquisitive fish, particularly towards scuba divers

Watch the below video on potato bass, part of my Creatures of the Sea series:

Video: 60 hyenas take on a lion

Guests on one of our Maasai Mara safaris were lucky enough to witness the legendary Musiara Marsh Pride of lions take on a large clan of hyenas that were determined to rob them of a recent Cape buffalo kill.

The overnight hunt was an exhausting affair for the lions, with the powerful buffalo seeking refuge in deep pools on several occasions, before eventually succumbing to the determined and experienced lions. The lions feasted well, and in the morning all had bellies full to bursting. Many of the pride members moved away from the buffalo carcass to drink and rest. That’s when the clean-up crew of jackals, hyenas and vultures moved in to pick the carcass clean.

The few lions that remained at the carcass were soon outnumbered, as 60 hyenas (not all can be seen in the video) gathered and ripped the carcass to shreds, consuming all remaining meat.

The brazen and confident hyenas set off in pursuit of one lion and her cubs at one stage, but full bellies and the return of a few more lions halted that charge. During the melee, Siena (a lioness famous for killing hyenas) made a comeback attempt, giving a few retreating hyenas a fright as she bowled them over. In the end, though, full bellies won the day and each protagonist retreated to safety.

Find out about KENYA for your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

Wounded elephant limps to a local lodge for help

On Saturday morning, staff at a Bumi Hills lodge in Zimbabwe were surprised to discover that an elephant bull had arrived outside one of the staff houses with a severe limp. Upon closer inspection, they suspected that the wounded elephant had been the victim of a failed poaching attempt. He had two bullet holes through his left ear and a septic wound on his left shoulder.

elephant-at-Bumi-Lodge — ©Bumi Hills via Facebook

Estimated to be at least 30 years old, the bull had made his way up the steep escarpment to the lodge during the night despite the painful-looking wound on his shoulder. The wounded elephant was clearly quite dehydrated as he readily drank the three buckets of water we gave him and had not moved away from the house for nearly five hours. Perhaps the elephant knew that we could help.

Staff quickly arranged for a wildlife vet to fly in to the lodge that afternoon, dart him and give him the necessary life-saving treatment. Six hours later, when the vet arrived, the elephant hadn’t moved further than a few metres.

Seeing his wounds, Dr. Richard Hoare quickly went to work preparing to dart and treat the animal.

vet-preparing-dart — Dr. Richard Hoare preparing the dart. ©Bumi Hills via Facebook

elephant-darting — Perfect shot and waiting for the drugs to take effect. You can see the staff housing in the background, showing how close this elephant had stayed all day. ©Bumi Hills via Facebook

The dart went into his rear rump perfectly, and he only moved off a short distance in the seven minutes before he went down. He also landed perfectly on his haunches with his right side up a slope, the perfect position considering we needed to work on his left side.

Once darted, the whole treatment took a little over an hour, in which the vet and workers managed to clean and disinfect his wound, check for any remnants of a bullet and administer antibiotics to the wounded elephant.

pushing-over-sedated-elephant — It took 12 men to pull and push him over! ©Bumi Hills via Facebook

Metal-detector-on-elephant — Using a metal detector to try and locate the bullet head or fragments. ©Bumi Hills via Facebook

The nature and cause of the wound has left everyone puzzled. It is a large entry hole, approximately 4cm in diameter, perfectly round and smooth and extends approximately 10cm downwards into his shoulder joint, and there are no other wounds visible on the animal at all. The wound was approximately a month old, but again, this is difficult to tell exactly.

The nature of the wound suggests that if caused by a bullet, it was fired from an elevated position down onto the animal, not a commonly used method of shooting an animal, but with our rugged terrain, it is quite possible. We will arrange for a mobile X-ray unit to be brought in if he requires follow-up treatment, which will hopefully give us a better idea of what happened.

bullet-holes-in-elephants-ear — The 2 bullet holes in his right ear that were seen before the darting are definitely old and have healed completely, suggesting this poor elephant had been fired at before this incident. ©Bumi Hills via Facebook

Cleaning-elephant-wound — Cleaning the wound out with a probe. ©Bumi Hills via Facebook

Once the operation was completed and the drugs had worn off, he was back up on his feet within five minutes before rushing off into some thick cover.

elephant-getting-up — A few minutes later, he was trying to get up. ©Bumi Hills via Facebook

The team also fitted Ben, named after the staff member who found him, with a VHF tracking collar so that we can monitor him closely over the next two weeks when we will dart him again to carry out a follow-up check and hopefully remove his collar.

standing-elephant — A shake of the head before he wandered off into the bush. ©Bumi Hills via Facebook

We are still unsure of the extent of the internal damage this animal has sustained at this stage but, having treated the wound, we have hopefully minimised the risk of serious infection and got him out of immediate danger. It is incredibly humbling how everyone just pulls together when an animal needs urgent medical attention, and we are extremely grateful to all those who helped out.

Yesterday, the elephant spent most of the morning in fairly open bush,veld and the photo below was taken of him, albeit at long range.

Elephant-spotted-from-afar — ©Bumi Hills via Facebook

When the above photo was taken, the wounded elephant was not limping as badly, and the wound seemed to be healing well externally. His condition remains good, and he is feeding normally. These are all positive signs; however, there is still a very long road ahead for this elephant, considering we still do not know the extent of the internal injuries he may have, but we will be keeping a close eye on him to determine if any further treatment is needed.

From data collected in aerial surveys carried out over Zimbabwe in 2001 and again in 2013, there has been an estimated decrease in elephant numbers of 75% in the Sebungwe area, which basically stretches the length of Lake Kariba and includes inland areas such as Matusadona and Chizarira National Parks. These worrying statistics have resulted in the formation of the Bumi Hills Foundation in March 2016. The foundation will focus predominantly on community development initiatives within the local community, including healthcare, education and economic empowerment, while continuing to carry out vital conservation work through the newly incorporated BHAPU.

UPDATE 23 June 2016:

Based on the improvement in his condition and mobility over the past two weeks and the state of the wound now, the overall prognosis is that Ben has an extremely good chance of fully recovering, albeit over a couple of months.

Trophy hunting – a compromise?

As an individual who abhors the notion of a trophy hunt, the Cecil the Lion debacle prompted me to interview various conservation scientists and practitioners, ecotourism professionals, hunting associations and more to understand the real issues behind the enormous amount of social media hype. The article that I wrote based on my findings was published here. Written by: Ian Vorster

leopard-in-tree — A leopard, as most wildlife lovers prefer to see them ©Ian Vorster

The first person I made contact with was Dereck Joubert, who operates high-end ecotourism camps in Botswana’s Okavango Delta. He is currently writing a book that digs deep into the ‘pro-hunting model’, and had this to say, “The more I scratch, the more disappointed I become in my quest to find one good example of where hunting actually works well.”

Dereck believes that hunting is an archaic management method at best, one that actually doesn’t manage anything. He asserts: “It is a selfish and incredibly brutal activity that is designed to simply serve the killer. We also need to understand the claimed amount of how much actually gets to the communities that are reported as benefactors. I can tell you this, however: if it were working well, after over 100 years of hunting-era management, the communities and wildlife would be in good shape. Instead, we are seeing massive declines in wildlife, and increased levels of poverty and corruption surrounding wildlife areas.”

Following that, I contacted Dr Michael Knight, the director of science for SANParks, and Chris Weaver, the conservation programme director for World Wildlife Fund’s Southern Africa programme.

What they had to say could be summarised in these three points:

1. The current trophy hunting model is corrupt;

2. All areas and all species cannot be regarded in the same way — for example, rhino habitat and management in Namibia differs from lion habitat and management in Tanzania;

3. And if the revenue stream from trophy hunting is taken away, it will only hasten the demise of wildlife because of human-animal conflict in remote areas – especially in areas in which the ecotourism lodge model does not work as well.

The third point seems to serve as a wrench in the wheel for anyone who might be opposed to the trophy hunt.

Dr Stuart Pimm is the Doris Duke Professor of Conservation Ecology and the division chief of the Environmental Science and Policy Division at Duke University. He notes the tension between the factions: “The issues with hunting wildlife are very complicated, and those in Africa especially so. There are those who think all hunting is unethical. There are those who think sustained hunting can do a lot of good.”

Pimm illustrates his point with the following example of two adjacent countries – Kenya bans all hunting, while Tanzania devotes far more of its land to hunting concessions than it does to protected areas. Namibia, like Tanzania, has a mix, and yet is a very different country ecologically and in terms of its per capita wealth.

“Some in Kenya feel that what it gains from tourism is its best land use. Tanzania has vast areas of very poor quality land for which hunting may be the best use. Hunters argue that without the money they bring in, these areas would likely be converted to other uses, and all wildlife, including those species that are hunted, would suffer.” Recent reports in Kenya say that the country is suffering a steep rate of loss of wildlife and habitat, which many attribute to its non-hunting policies. However, both Tanzania and Mozambique have suffered similar losses, and yet both countries have hunting.

So what is a possible solution if neither the current hunting model nor refraining from the trophy hunt works?

A caveat that has endured in this investigation seems to be that hunting needs to be done in a legal and sustainable way. This is especially a challenge for poor countries with limited resources, like Zimbabwe, where the government has been implicated in both rhino and elephant poaching.

Michael Knight explains: “The principle of getting the most return for a hunt is good – it increases the value of wildlife. In many cases, authorities are actually under-charging, and without good governance, the system is open to corruption.” Dr Knight supported the black rhino hunt in Namibia, partly because 100 percent of the funds went directly to support a small community and further conservation efforts and because the rhino was an old male who could no longer breed.

Regarding revenue, lion researcher Dr Craig Packer notes that a prime trophy lion costs about a million dollars to protect through its life, so US$50,000 for Cecil was minuscule. He suggests that the prices should be raised significantly and that the hunting culture should be changed so that, for example, 20 hunters each pay US$50,000 for a lottery tag to get the chance to shoot one six-year-old male. He emphasised that land is not being adequately maintained in most of Africa. “African sport hunting stands in stark contrast to what we see in the U.S., where operators really do help conserve habitat. Most African sport hunting operators are strip miners who gain access to the land through under-the-table deals and try to make a profit by promising 100 percent hunting success rates and minimising their investments in anti-poaching or community conservation, or anything else. There are a few exceptions, but only a few.”

In closing, I’d like to give Dereck Joubert the last word: “While this is a practical debate, it is also a philosophical one. In my opinion, one has to tackle the moral and ethical issues first, and the financial or economic ones only after that; otherwise, we will be making terrible decisions that take us down an ever more slippery slope in life. Some things in life make perfect economic sense, but we should never even consider them based on moral grounds – slavery would be a prime example.”

Whatever our personal opinions, it’s clear that trophy hunting remains a contentious debate. It seems to me that some compromise is needed if we hope to save what is left of our wildlife. We need to find a 21st-century way forward.

Build your own owl box!

Owls have captivated the human imagination for centuries, and few animals have so many different and contradictory beliefs about them. Owls have been both feared and venerated, despised and admired, considered wise and foolish, and associated with medicine and witchcraft. Having an owl box near your home may help you understand them better. Written by: Craig Glatthaar

In the mythology of ancient Greece, owls were honoured. Athene, the goddess of wisdom, adopted the little owl (Athene noctua) as her favourite feathered creature. However, in Roman mythology, the deaths of Julius Caesar and Commodus Aurelius were supposedly predicted by an owl. In English folklore, owl eggs cooked until they turned to ash were used as a potion to improve one’s eyesight. The Apache believed that dreaming of an owl signified approaching death, and in many African tribal beliefs, the presence of an owl on the roof means a death in the family is imminent. These days’ owls are rather revered, not for their symbolism, but for the very real reason that they keep rodent populations in check and they’re just amazingly well-adapted animals.

Despite all the myths and legends that surround these “wise” creatures, the reality of attracting owls to your garden is a wonderful way to marvel at these incredible hunters of the dark. Building an owl box is a great way to encourage them to your garden. Many owls use an artificial nest box – such as African wood owls, scops owls and pearl-spotted owlets. Barn owls and spotted eagle owls have learnt to live in close proximity to humans.

One of South Africa’s most common owl species is the spotted eagle-owl (Bubo africanus). They require a specific type of design for their owl box that is quite different from many of the other owls, but luckily, rather simple to build.

Spotted eagle owls are often hiding and resting during the day in rocky ledges or amongst the thick foliage of tall trees. For this reason, you will want to locate your box away from the hustle and bustle of your home. One doesn’t want to have to dodge a protective mother every time one goes in and out of your home. During the day, the owls will be relatively sedentary. However, nighttime is an altogether different story, where their acute vision, sensitive ears (within a large facial disk) and delicately designed quiet flying feathers turn them into the perfect nighttime assassins. They target all manner of prey, from insects to bats and even nightjars. One primary prey species is rodents, and here, attracting an owl to your home can serve a positive purpose… as opposed to being the bearer of all things evil.

Spotted eagle owls will mate for life, and they usually lay around two to three white eggs at intervals of between one to four days. The female incubates the eggs, while the male provides the food. Chicks hatch blind and begin to open their distinct yellow eyes after seven days. The young start leaving the nest and exploring at about four to six weeks and are normally flying by seven or eight weeks. The parents continue to care for the young for a further five or six weeks after they fledge. Their life cycles remind us of the small part we play on the planet, and it’s a humbling experience to watch an owl family going through the trials and tribulations of life – a wonderful reason to build your own owl box!

The truth about volunteering with lions

I had been an animal lover – more specifically, a cat lover – since I was little. So, when I finished school, it seemed only logical to sign up for an animal-focused volunteering trip – especially volunteering with lions. Written by Lucy Stewart

I found Real Gap, a company centred around sending students abroad. Amongst their top trips was the ‘Live with Lion Cubs’ experience at Ukutula – a fortnight in South Africa with hands-on experience helping to rehabilitate lions, all in the name of conservation. The two-week volunteering with lions experience cost £1,118 (ZAR25,689 at the time), excluding flights, but it seemed like such a good cause that I didn’t mind putting all my savings towards it.

Before the trip, I was not at all clued up about the canned hunting business. I knew all about poachers and trophy hunting, but that didn’t strike me as being related to what I was about to do. I posted a tweet expressing my excitement about the trip and received a message from a girl urging me to avoid Ukutula and that the reserve was affiliated with canned hunting. I was distraught but managed to convince myself that it was an online troll. The idea played on my mind, however, and I sent a message to a representative at Real Gap querying the reserve, but their response was just what I needed to ease my mind – they were disgusted at the very idea of canned hunting and assured me that the trip was solely for the sake of conservation.

On arriving at the reserve in July 2014, I was more excited than ever. The reserve itself was beautiful, located in Brits, just outside of Johannesburg. We were shown to our room, which was in the ‘Devils’ enclosure – a small hut surrounded by 26 three to six-month-old lion cubs.

There were eight volunteers in my group, who had all booked through the same company, along with another 25 volunteers, some of whom had been to Ukutula before. On the reserve at the time were four young cubs, which we cared for on cub duty. The environment seemed welcoming enough, but the staff were sometimes incredibly rude, and any questions regarding the animals were dismissed and scorned. For volunteers with no experience, to be treated like this was a bit off-putting.

In our duties of cleaning enclosures, however, I began to feel slightly uneasy. The female cheetah’s enclosure was small and overgrown, and she was alone in there for 24 hours a day. This did not make sense to me as the reserve was supposedly based on white lion conservation, so why was the cheetah there? The same situation applied to two tigers, which were fully grown and pacing back and forth in their enclosure. We were told that the tigers were mistreated when they were younger and would not survive in the wild alone. There were also two hyenas, which belonged to the owner’s son, who was one of the rangers there. These hyenas were treated like pets, but whenever we cleared their small and sparse enclosure, they would run the entire length of the enclosure back and forth in a straight line, looking utterly demented. It was heartbreaking, but the rangers assured us that this was their natural behaviour and that they were ‘fairly stupid creatures’ anyway.

One of the workers on the reserve, a chef in the kitchen, had two pet caracals, which were kept in a small and unnatural enclosure. He assured us that they were small enough animals for this; he told us they “had all the space they need – they wouldn’t need any more.”

We were also shown two newborn cheetah cubs, which were kept alone in a tiny enclosure. We were not told very much about these two cubs and were not allowed to enter their enclosure – only pet them through the bars. This was something else we found strange, but when asked, the rangers were extremely vague and never quite answered our questions about where the cubs came from or what would happen to them.

The volunteers were to take on cub duty for a large part of their stay, and this involved feeding, bathing and stimulating the four young lion cubs of about two months old to pass urine and faeces. These cubs were available for guests who would come in to play with the animals. There were roughly two or three tours a day of about a dozen or so members of the public, including some very young children. They would stay in the enclosure for about 20 minutes, passing the cubs around and posing for photographs. Any questions from the public were answered with the same scripted speeches – about conservation and how it was beneficial for cubs to interact with humans. However, the cub petting experience did not seem to be for any other reason than novelty and enjoyment.

Cub duty was basically carrying out the jobs which the mother usually does, as the cubs were so young they could not yet look after themselves. We were required to prepare the milk formula and feed the young cubs. Bathing them involved gently dunking them into a tub of warm water and soap and scrubbing the lower half of their body before drying them off. The cubs did not enjoy this one bit, and we were scratched to bits.

When we arrived at the reserve, there was a five-day-old cub that still had his eyes closed and was unable even to walk yet. We were given the surreal opportunity to care for this cub while posing for photos and passing this tiny creature around like a toy. He was not available for the cub petting with the paying members of the public, but towards the end of my time at Ukutula, the owner started to show him off to the public. At night, he was kept indoors with the owners, but if requested, any of the volunteers were able to have him stay in their room overnight.

The cub was taken from its mother and when we questioned this, we were assured that it was for his own good, and it was to be released into the wild when it grew up. Volunteers are often told that these cubs are orphans or in danger of being attacked or eaten by the other lions and can only be raised in this environment. Again, this is obviously false. At the end of my two-week stay, the little cub was moved into the other enclosure to interact with the four other young lion cubs there, and I assume this was the beginning of his ‘cub petting’ days.

Interacting so closely with a lion cub may seem like a very difficult thing to turn down. However, parks that offer ‘cub petting’ cannot be associated with promoting the welfare and conservation of lions. These cubs are passed around between volunteers and paying customers with no animal care experience until they are too big to cuddle, by which point they are so used to human interaction that they would not survive in the wild.

At Ukutula, after they grow out of cub petting, they are moved into the ‘Devils’ enclosure, where there are huts for volunteers to stay in so that they get to see lions right outside their window. These lions were around four to six months old and had to be fed from a distance. Rangers and volunteers would prepare the food, which involved studding what looked like fairly rotten chickens with a nutrient and calcium formula known as ‘Predator Powder’. These chickens were then thrown over the fence into the enclosure, and each lion would grab what it could. The volunteers were told never to get too close or go into the enclosure when the lions were feeding, as they would become aggressive.

When the lions reached around nine months to one-and-a-half years old, they were then moved into an area known as the ‘Gremlins’. There were around 30 ‘Gremlins’ in one enclosure, and there was more than one enclosure on the reserve – racking up quite a high number of lions in this age group. These enclosures were basic squares of dust, with a watering pool and some trees for shade – a fairly grim sight to look at, but the rangers ensured us it was temporary and they would be ‘soon released’.

These lions were trained to partake in ‘lion walks’ in which volunteers and paying customers are given waist-height wooden sticks to use as ‘warnings’ against the animals, should they get too close. We were told never to bend down below waist height, as the lions could pounce on us – but this seemed to be the only safety precaution. Throughout the walk, we stopped at various trees and areas where we could pose for photographs. The lions were coerced back and forth with bits of chicken in order to get a good shot and look at the camera. The rangers also used chicken and sticks to get the lions to climb up into the trees for the best photo opportunity. We were told this was natural behaviour.

When the lions have grown past the ‘lion walk’ stage and reached adulthood – at around three years old – the volunteers lose track of them. We are told they are released into the wild, which is laughable, come to think of it. These animals are so used to human contact, as it is all they have known, and would never survive in what should be their natural environment. The harsh reality is that these animals will be sold – perhaps to zoos, private owners, or canned hunting middlemen.

Looking back now, I feel the most anger towards the owners of the lodge. There was a meeting called between all of the volunteers and staff in our first couple of days, during which the owner told us how they had bought the reserve years ago and were breeding lions, and ‘much to their surprise and disgust’ were receiving requests regarding the hunting of their lions. They then told us how, unbeknown to them, they had bought into the canned hunting business, at which time they cut off all ties and turned the lodge into ‘Ukutula’ – meaning ‘place of quiet’, a peaceful place to promote breeding and conservation. The apparent ‘research’ being carried out on the reserve was not explained fully to the volunteers, but the general idea was conveyed that Ukutula was attempting to increase the number of white lions by breeding them on-site in a protected environment – away from poachers – and releasing them into the wild when old enough.

It was not until maybe a year after I returned home when a friend who had been in my group shared a post that everything changed, and I discovered the truth. I was utterly distraught. It had not only all been a sham, but I had been part of something that I had wanted to explicitly prevent – the hunting and unethical treatment of these beautiful creatures. I immediately wrote furious emails to Real Gap, Ukutula, and anyone who would listen, but I got very little response. I kept sending more and more messages to Real Gap, and a few months later, received another message from a friend saying the trip had been removed from the website.

Reading this, it may seem I was incredibly naïve, but at the time, these places offered incredibly convincing cover stories. I feel sick to my stomach at the thought of it, but can only use this negative experience in a positive way. Making people aware of these issues is so important, and I aim to do everything I can to ensure that this does not happen to any more volunteers looking to help.

Malena Persson, from Campaign Against Canned Hunting UK, concludes: “When I read about Lucy’s experiences, the full scale of the canned hunting operations hit me – these poor individuals are being harshly duped into repressing what little suspicions they have. They get entirely caught up in the long string of lies that they are being fed over and over. Ugly lies are hidden behind cuteness, as lion cubs are dangled in front of the volunteers to take their eyes and minds off their gut feeling that something is very, very wrong. Lion farms are clever; they bring up the horrors of canned hunting before anyone even asks about it, assuring their volunteers that they are indeed the good guys and that they would never have anything to do with that kind of appalling cruelty. Lion breeding facilities abuse the trust of genuinely goodhearted young people. Many volunteers go to South Africa because they want to help; they want to save lions. But instead, they end up supporting one of the biggest frauds of our time. And it is about time that everyone sees captive breeding of lions for what it is – it is the first step in the canned hunting chain; it is deception with a deadly end.”

Rhino rangers

When it comes to the fight against rhino poaching, there are simply too many heroes to mention. They take the form of guides, researchers, vets, rangers and volunteers, and each Rhino Tears wine, I was lucky to brush shoulders with some of these eco-warriors while they gave us a glimpse behind the scenes. I was introduced to the park’s canine unit and learned more about the various teams protecting our rhinos.

As the newly-appointed head of ranger services, Xolani Nicholus Funda has brought some fresh blood and a renewed fire to this dedicated team of more than 700 individuals. He has a sense of community and the bigger picture that not only demonstrates his vast wisdom and know-how but also his compassion for the real heart of this issue. After working as a ranger in his early years, Mr Funda went on to become a lecturer at the University of Tshwane under the Department of Nature Conservation, where he worked for seven years. Apart from his conservation experience, he holds a master’s degree in environmental management from the University of Free State.
A quote from the man in charge: “Poverty is a serious threat to conservation and natural resources, and if we don’t deal with that, we cannot combat the poaching issue.”

Brad Grafton is the new kid on the block regarding Kruger’s air services. Brad comes from a military background, and his skills bring an interesting perspective to the party – clearly indicating what Kruger’s rangers are up against. Despite a demanding schedule that sometimes sees him running four or five aerial missions a day, Brad always seemed to have a smile on his face. His sheer enjoyment and fascination for his job were evident when he took us up in his helicopter for a quick spin. This helicopter pilot loves life in the bushveld, and I can say that the views he gets to experience each day are worth fighting for.

Craig Williams is a relatively new addition to Kruger’s team of section rangers. He, unfortunately, had to take over a messy wake after his former section ranger at Lower Sabie was arrested, along with two others, for rhino poaching – evidence of just how tempting this illicit trade is. But Craig is definitely up for the job – he comes from Mountain Zebra National Park, where he picked up a Frontier Shield award for bravery for his quick thinking in June 2012 when he managed to save his colleagues from a charging black rhino. Dog Badger at his side is a unique bluetick, and while he may look like the ultimate sweetheart with that lolling tongue and loveable demeanour, Badger is a lean, mean tracking machine.
For Craig, working in the Kruger with Badger at his side has always been a dream, and in his words, “It is a privilege and honour to do what we do.”

A feminine face in a man’s world – but no less hardcore. It was clear from the outset that Tebogo is deeply passionate, committed and humble. As an outsider looking on, you could see she was eager to learn, but she also easily held her own and demanded respect from a team of manly green. She was the right-hand woman to head vet Markus Hofmeyr, and she diligently went about her work with the utmost grace, taking blood samples and doing the necessary checks on the rhino that we darted. The guys expect big things from her, and I have no doubt she will live up to the challenge.

Jaco was one of our guides for our Kruger trip, and I think it’s safe to say that his keen sense of humour is matched only by his vast bush knowledge. I can attest firsthand that if an elephant ever charges you, Jaco is the man you want out in front of you. As a Level 3 trails guide, trainer and assessor, Jaco also has experience in safari management services and the management of private lodges, and he was recently selected as one of the top six in the Safari Guide of the Year 2016 competition. His utter dedication to his job extends above and beyond the call of duty, and he has even started his own campaign, challenging Kruger fans to get involved in the fight to save our rhinos by sponsoring a dog for the park’s canine unit. A quote from Jaco: “I believe that as South Africans, we can be better, we can affect change positively, and we can channel our energies positively.”

Dr Markus Hofmeyr is the head of SANParks Veterinary Wildlife Services – a job he takes very seriously. He has a rich background in veterinary work and played a part in setting up the gorgeous Madikwe Game Reserve. While his job may sound like a dream come true, with great things comes great responsibility – he holds the life of the park’s wildlife in his hands. His work includes rhino translocations, establishing new techniques and best practices, monitoring of animal populations in the Kruger-Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area and operational management. His eternal optimism must see him through each day as he no doubt witnesses the worst of the worst.
In the words of the brave Markus Hofmeyr: “We are not at the point of no return (and) can still see a turnaround in South Africa.”

The serious and dependable Frik Rossouw cuts to the chase, and, as the senior investigator at the Environmental Crime Investigations unit in Kruger, one can see where his firm hand comes from. The unit he runs is responsible for analysing rhino poaching crime scenes, forensics, evidence interpretation, investigations (both reactive and pro-active) and cross-border liaisons. He works with dedicated prosecutors, and he and his team have been responsible for some serious arrests, particularly in recent months. His role is to make sure that poachers don’t do it again or never get a chance in the first place. And he had me quivering in my boots!
A message from Frik: “Our strategy and commitment are beginning to bear fruit; the poachers are increasingly becoming unsuccessful.”

Standing next to Patrick while his colleagues rallied around the darted rhino, taking samples and measurements, was like standing in the eye of the storm. As one of the first on the scene, his job was to make sure the rhino was safe and secure and that her movements were limited – ensuring the safety of the vets that crowded around her. As the hustle and bustle ensued all around him, Patrick stood firm in his duty. He demurely smiled at the camera, blushing at being the centre of attention while keeping a trained, watchful eye on the rhino and the scene behind him. That rhino had 100% of his focus, and I have no doubt she was safe in his hands.

John Hooper of Klapmunts-based wine cellar Mt Vernon Wines may be a businessman and winemaker, but his passion for rhinos hits all the right notes. The idea for Rhino Tears – a wine that could raise money for anti-poaching efforts – was borne around a dinner table in Hoedspruit when John decided that he could marry his love for wine with his passion for the bushveld. From every bottle of his Rhino Tears wine – be it the chenin, red blend, or rose – ZAR15 goes directly to the SANParks Honorary Rangers and helps in the fight for our rhinos. And in its first year and a half, John has already raised more than ZAR700,000 for the cause. A quote from John: “The anti-poaching war is expensive, and the men and women involved need all the help they can get against a ruthless enemy.”

The legendary John Turner chairs the SANParks Honorary Rangers Counter-Poaching and Ranger Support Services National Project. John’s primary concern is to raise funds to support the anti-poaching units with the necessary equipment through the Honorary Rangers. All monies raised by the Honorary Rangers go directly to the cause and are not redirected into admin fees or hidden costs – a responsibility John takes very seriously and a feather he can wear in his hat with pride.
Some of his most successful fundraising initiatives include sunset serenades at Letaba and Mopani and the introduction of annual Mokhohlolo camps in which lucky visitors are given a glimpse into the behind-the-scenes efforts of the rangers. It was at one of these camps that I was introduced to John and where I came to see him as the father figure who considers each of the rangers as his children – with everyone finding a special place in his big heart.

My favourite ranger of all, a bloodhound-doberman cross and a relatively new addition to the team, stands next to his accomplished handler. Responsible for eight poacher arrests in just three weeks, the dog pictured here is born to track and is so good at his job that he can follow the scent of a poacher for 20 kilometres. His badass handler is beside him every gruelling step of the way, keeping control while putting his life on the line. His handler’s face cannot be shown due to the potential for threats to his life and family.

Never have I met a man more dedicated to his position than Neels van Wyk. You can see that his title as Crocodile Bridge section ranger is so much more than a job to him. He commands respect, and he deserves it. Despite taking the lead in what can only be a heavily taxing role, Neels still had the time to sit down with us and explain the trials and tribulations of his day job. This turns out not to be a day job at all but instead, an around-the-clock passion that sees him on his toes chasing poachers, relocating big cats, managing a team of rangers in an intensive poaching zone, and calmly trying to explain the needs of the park to pestering journalists – all at the same time.

This gallery was compiled by teamAG member Janine Avery. Janine met the inspiring men and women featured here while staying at Mokhohlolo camp. The SANParks Honorary Rangers organised her stay to give Kruger lovers a look behind the scenes at their favourite park while contributing financially to the cause.
The stay involved bush walks alongside passionate field guides in the lesser-explored areas of Kruger National Park, an exploration into the sides of the park not normally open to the public, and the opportunity to observe the hard work done every day by the rangers and vets you have met in the last few slides. The camp lets like-minded people come together to discuss the issues facing the park, and it often results in pledges being made for specific projects – especially after a refreshing drink or two around the communal campfire.
The non-permanent Mokhohlolo camp is booked out as a group and accommodates 20 guests. Enquiries can be made by emailing John Turner. The trip was sponsored by Rhino Tears Wines, which donates proceeds from every bottle sold to rhino anti-poaching efforts. Learn more about the great work this wine is doing to save rhinos on their Facebook page.