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R.I.P. Sudan – last male northern white rhino

Sudan, the last male northern white rhino with handler
© Ol Pejeta Conservancy / Facebook

Sudan, the last male northern white rhino, has sadly passed away at the Ol Pejeta Conservancy in Kenya. Our thoughts are with his keepers and the rest of Ol Pejeta Conservancy staff.

The following is a statement by Ol Pejeta Conservancy on Facebook:

It is with great sadness that Ol Pejeta Conservancy and the Dvůr Králové Zoo announce that Sudan, the world’s last male northern white rhino, age 45, died at Ol Pejeta Conservancy in Kenya on March 19th, 2018 (yesterday). Sudan was being treated for age-related complications that led to degenerative changes in muscles and bones combined with extensive skin wounds. His condition worsened significantly in the last 24 hours; he was unable to stand up and was suffering a great deal. The veterinary team from the Dvůr Králové Zoo, Ol Pejeta and Kenya Wildlife Service made the decision to euthanize him.

Sudan will be remembered for his unusually memorable life. In the 1970s, he escaped extinction of his kind in the wild when he was moved to Dvůr Králové Zoo. Throughout his existence, he significantly contributed to the survival of his species as he sired two females. Additionally, his genetic material was collected yesterday and provides hope for future attempts at reproduction of northern white rhinos through advanced cellular technologies. During his final years, Sudan came back to Africa and stole the heart of many with his dignity and strength.

“We on Ol Pejeta are all saddened by Sudan’s death. He was a great ambassador for his species and will be remembered for the work he did to raise awareness globally of the plight facing not only rhinos but also the many thousands of other species facing extinction as a result of unsustainable human activity. One day, his demise will hopefully be seen as a seminal moment for conservationists worldwide,” said Richard Vigne, Ol Pejeta’s CEO.

Unfortunately, Sudan’s death leaves just two female northern white rhinos on the planet; his daughter Najin and her daughter Fatu, who remain at Ol Pejeta. The only hope for the preservation of this subspecies now lies in developing in vitro fertilisation (IVF) techniques using eggs from the two remaining females, stored northern white rhino semen from males and surrogate southern white rhino females.

Sudan, last male northern white rhino, died March 2018
© Ol Pejeta Conservancy / Facebook

5 Facts you did not know about African wild dogs

African wild dogs playing
© Anton Kruger

Many will know that Africa’s wild dogs (Lycaon pictus) require vast areas to roam, hunt cooperatively to run down their prey and regurgitate food for pups and other pack members. But there are other remarkable facts about these beautiful animals that perhaps you didn’t know.

Here are 5 fascinating facts about African wild dogs:

1. Wild dogs have only four toes on each foot, lacking the fifth (dewclaw) that other dogs have on the front foot (and sometimes also on the back foot).

2. Once wild dogs reach maturity it is the females that leave the pack to seek out other breeding opportunities, while the males stay behind to form the nucleus of the pack.

3. Pups that are old enough to eat solid food are given priority at a kill – even over the dominant pair.

4. Wild dogs have specially adapted teeth, different to other canids, to enable the rapid shredding of carcasses and therefore lessen the chance of having their meals stolen by other predators.

5. Wild dog fur differs from other canids – they have stiff bristle-hairs and no underfur. They lose their fur as they age, with very old dogs being almost naked.

And did you know? Research has revealed that the decision by a group of African wild dogs to get up from rest and hit the road to hunt as a collective pack is a democratic one, albeit with a twist. Votes are cast by way of sneezes. Read more about how wild dogs vote with sneezes here.

African wild dog puppy
© Thea Felmore

Opinion: Timbavati increases conservation levy to fund anti-poaching and other costs

Elephants drinking at river at Tanda Tula in Greater Kruger
© Tanda Tula
OPINION POST by Don Scott

For the past few years, the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve – home to both of our Tanda Tula camps – has been facing a dilemma. In the Greater Kruger, poaching has shown no signs of abating, wildlife crime syndicates are becoming increasingly ruthless, and reserve security costs have continued to soar – 850% in the last five years, to be exact. We have become increasingly aware that this situation is not sustainable, and for some years now, we have been exploring leverage points. Where could the much-needed revenue be generated?

Traditionally Timbavati, along with many other private nature reserves within the Greater Kruger, has relied on hunting revenue as a significant contributor to the enormous operational costs of running and securing a private nature reserve (which receives no government subsidies). Hunting is regulated by government conservation agencies and is sanctioned by the Kruger National Parks’ (and the Timbavati’s) strict ethical norms towards sustainable utilisation of wildlife. Since the idea behind sustainable utilisation is for it to be just that – sustainable – increasing hunting quotas to boost income is simply not an option. Using the same logic, increasing revenue by adding too many commercial beds in the Timbavati would also be unsustainable.

Now, I fully appreciate that hunting is still a contentious issue which can polarise opinion and create heated debate. Tanda Tula is a photographic tourism operation and I am not a hunter myself in any way shape or form. However, my work on regional conservation forums has made me appreciate that in the Greater Kruger, hunting continues to play a role in creating revenue for the conservation and maintenance of the wilderness landscape. As a citizen of the Greater Kruger, the Tanda Tula philosophy is that we focus on the big picture – one where multiple land-uses co-exist, but where common ethical norms and standards are playing an increasing role in the regulation of all activities including hunting, tourism, security and conservation. In fact, it is the willingness of the multitudes of stakeholders, within the Greater Kruger, to accept their differences, but work with common principles towards a common goal, that has made the Greater Kruger such an enormous success – one of the only wildlife areas in Africa that continues to expand and grow, despite all of the external pressures on land use.

Rhino with game viewing vehicle in Tanda Tula in Greater Kruger
© Tanda Tula

As one of the members of the Timbavati Exco, my portfolio in the reserve is to look after the commercial lodges and also to assist with financial management and planning for the reserve. Last year, during the Timbavati’s annual budgeting exercise, I analysed the reserve’s historical revenue data, and I made a somewhat startling discovery.

In our most recent year of data, where the Timbavati photographic tourism numbers had peaked, the revenue brought into the reserve by 24,000 photographic tourists was less than one third of the revenue brought in by only 46 hunters for the same year. It’s not hard to imagine that 24,000 tourists have a much larger carbon, and resource use, footprint than 46 hunters, not to mention the amount of activity within the reserve required to support all of those photographic tourists – deliveries, waste management, water use, electricity provision, and staff, to name but a few. My wife (and co-owner of Tanda Tula) Nina and I discussed how we could address this dilemma, and how Tanda Tula could, as a leader in the luxury safari industry, help to solve this untenable equation. The first step was to get all of the lodges of the Timbavati together to establish if the commercial operations could jointly come up with a solution that would help balance the revenue budget and more effectively account for the utilisation of the reserve by photographic tourists.

In the last two years, Tanda Tula has also been a key role-player, together with other tourism experts and the Kruger National Park, in devising common sustainable tourism norms and standards for the Greater Kruger region. Part of this process is to standardise how we structure conservation fees in the area, and what better place to start than at home? In fact, the Timbavati was the perfect place to start, being a much-loved and respected reserve with a healthy photographic tourism support-base. So, the logical next step was to align our Conservation Levies with those of our direct neighbour, the Kruger National Park.

With the above in mind, we called a meeting of all of the lodges in the Timbavati, and together we agreed that a new Conservation Levy model should be proposed to the reserve landowners. It is important to note here that many of the lodges in the Timbavati, including Tanda Tula, are tenant operations with sometimes limited say in the decisions that are made by the landowners, who are the ultimate decision making body of the reserve. The new model was designed to standardise and match the conservation fees charged by the Kruger National Park. It was also designed to increase revenue for the reserve without having to increase the number of tourism beds in the reserve – thus underpinning our joint commitment to truly sustainable tourism in the Timbavati.

What followed was months of robust negotiations to get the Timbavati’s Exco, landowners and all of the lodges on board with a new revenue model. As with all multi-stakeholders initiatives, this was an intense and time-consuming process, and was not without some stumbling points. After what seemed like an endless stream of emails, meetings, negotiations and – well, lobbying! – our joint vision, that had been decided at a meeting of the lodges in April, was finally realised. On 1 September 2017, for the first time in decades, Timbavati had a new revenue model for conservation fees that would change the reserve’s reliance on its traditional revenue streams.

Guest watching elephants cross dry riverbed in Tanda Tula in Greater Kruger
© Tanda Tula

After all of the hard work and discussions with other stakeholders in the Timbavati, the new Conservation Levy model became effective on 1 January 2018. The key change was moving from a “per stay” Conservation Levy model to a “per day” model. Whilst we are only into the third month of the new year, all indications are that the new Conservation Levy model is set to be a resounding success. Just last month (February 2018), thanks to the amazing support from our numerous trade partners and guests, the revenues from Conservation Levies exceeded the budget by more than 41%! If the budget is maintained for the 2018 year, revenues from Conservation Levies will have increased by almost 300%, year-on-year. Even so, in comparison to the rest of Africa, our Conservation Levies remain very affordable, being around $28 per person per day in comparison to $100 per person per day in most other parts of Africa. In keeping with the decisions of the Timbavati landowners, the management of the reserve has responded to this increased revenue, brought in by Conservation Levies, by reducing the budgets and quotas associated with the hunting revenue stream.

Make no mistake, generating revenue for the management of the Timbavati is part of conserving the Greater Kruger landscape. Security costs now represent 50% of Timbavati’s operational budget and the dedication of our field rangers greatly benefits all endangered species in the fenceless, open system. Timbavati is still the reserve with the lowest losses of rhino per hectare in the whole of the Greater Kruger – a testimony to the enormous spend that has been applied to the security of the reserve, thus aiding the overall effort of the security of the Greater Kruger landscape.

I am personally delighted at the outcome of the new Conservation Levy model. I am sure that my fellow lodge owners in the Timbavati share my view that it would be a great achievement for the Conservation Levies to, one day, fully cover the operational expense budget of the Timbavati. The key, of course, is to achieve that goal whilst maintaining our sustainable low volume and high value tourism offering, that makes the Timbavati unique.

As I said before, none of this would be possible without the overwhelming support of the guests and tourism trade partners of all of the lodges of the Timbavati. I’d like to extend a special thank you, from Tanda Tula, to every guest and to every trade partner who chooses to send guests to the Timbavati. You have understood our philosophy that we must find a way to increase our financial contribution to the conservation effort in the Greater Kruger because it is the right thing to do in terms of a sustainable tourism philosophy. Your contributions are now a significant portion of the reserve’s income and your continued support is helping to maintain and even grow the wilderness of the Greater Kruger National Park.

Magical Maasai Mara

The fascination of Kenya’s Maasai Mara National Reserve and its abundance of wildlife brings fond memories to many seasoned African safari travellers; I am no exception. In January this year, I was invited by some good friends from the USA to join them on a trip to this remarkable reserve.

We departed from Wilson Airport in Nairobi, and upon landing in the Mara, were greeted by a lineup of friendly Maasai guides and their safari game-viewing vehicles parked next to the dirt airstrip.

Pride of lions
Maasai Mara is home to prides of lions – one of Africa’s iconic Big 5 © Dex Kotze

Magnificence of the Mara

The open plains of the Mara are known for providing safari-goers with a rolling landscape filled with wildebeest, zebras, lions, large hyena clans and elusive leopards stalking in the riverine forests; this is a healthy ecosystem for prey and predator.

We were privy to several fascinating moments that depicted the reality of the wild, from lion prides successfully catching large prey to cheetahs devouring a steenbok they had caught.

Although the annual migration into the Maasai Mara takes place from July to October every year, the plains were filled with thousands of zebra and wildebeest, grazing on the short, green grasses. On our first game drive, it didn’t take long before we saw a pride of 14 lions, blustering with confidence as they walked towards the hills, oblivious to the many zebras gawking at them from a close but safe distance.

This scene was totally opposite from many other wildlife reserves where contact between predator and prey is not as seemingly nonchalant.

Thousands of zebra grazing
Thousands of zebra graze on the green grass of the savannah wilderness © Dex Kotze

Early the next morning, our attention was drawn to a different lion pride that had killed a large eland. The lions had dragged the carcass into dense bush, protecting it from a clan of about 19 hyenas who stalked the area from all directions, typical behaviour of Africa’s cunning scavengers.

The hungry lions feasted on more than three-quarters of the eland overnight, resulting in full bellies. Afterwards, they lay spread-eagled all over the place. The insolent hyenas that approached, eager to claim the scraps, were instantly chased away by two sub-adult male lions.

Full-bellied lions
Full-bellied lions © Dex Kotze

A photographer’s paradise

Our guides’ knowledge and ability to steer the vehicles across the river tributaries allowed us to explore new areas of the Mara, offering opportunities to take unique photographs on a specialist photographic safari.

I was privileged to share my journey with the formidable marine biologists and NatGeo explorers, Christina Mittermeier and Paul Nicklen, from SeaLegacy fame. This was Paul’s first trip to Africa, and being able almost immediately to capture photos of the abundant wildlife was a stark contrast to his explorations across the Arctic observing polar bears – he’d often walk for days before he had an opportunity to capture images of these endangered bears.

We quickly found common ground through our discussions about the effects of global warming on conservation efforts in marine biology and savannah conservation in Africa.

Clockwise from left: 1) Maasai Mara is a haven for photographers looking to capture photos of the diverse wildlife; 2) An elephant cools off in the Mara River; 3) Two elegant grey crowned cranes. All photos © Dex Kotze

It’s not often that two cheetah kills are observed within an hour. On one of our morning drives, we came across a male cheetah that had successfully caught a steenbok. We spent nearly 40 minutes with him before we trekked north, only to witness another cheetah that was halfway done with devouring a newborn impala.

Apparently, wildlife vets had treated this particular mange-infested cheetah the day before, as well as a pride of about 17 lions who also suffered from the same disease.

A cheetah eating its fresh kill of a young steenbok
A cheetah consuming its fresh steenbok kill © Dex Kotze

Later, the sight of a huge, wet and muddy male leopard stalking the slippery riverbanks (after a serious confrontation with another young leopard) had guides clambering for position to allow their guests the best visibility of the majestic cat. The leopard was visibly irritated. A territorial fight had left him with puncture wounds to his head and neck.

It was clear that he was not enamoured by the array of vehicles following his escape route.

A muddy leopard
A muddy leopard on the banks of the river © Dex Kotze

We also had a memorable viewing of ‘Bahati’, a beautiful female leopard and her young cub who live around the Talek River. According to our guide, she has successfully raised several cubs, and we were fortunate enough to spot her on two occasions; one being with her extremely cautious cub.

At another fantastic sighting, we saw a lion pride of about 17 lions that had taken refuge on a small koppie. The remaining bits of a wildebeest kill were being tossed around and played with by two sub-adults as the others relaxed. Not far away, a hyena clan, hopeful of scavenging some of the wildebeest’s remains, became embroiled in their own territorial dispute. The pecking order left several hyenas attacking one of their kin in a display of irritability, possibly caused by the fact that the lions had left nothing for them to eat.

A clan of hyenas
A hyena clan embroiled in a territorial dispute © Dex Kotze
Africa Geographic Travel

The next day we came across a beautiful lion called ‘Long Face’. We followed him for nearly two hours as he crossed rivers and eventually entered dense bush where two eland were grazing, oblivious to his presence. I asked our guide to re-position our vehicle, expecting the lion to give chase to the eland.

From left to right: 1) A majestic lion named ‘Long Face’ about to cross a river in pursuit of two eland; 2) A sensational portrait of Long Face. Both photos © Dex Kotze

Exactly three minutes later, two eland (who were each nearly 1,000 kg in body weight) came charging out of the bush. One of them narrowly avoided colliding with a Land Cruiser by way of a mind-boggling, gigantic leap over the vehicle – clearing it by several feet – as can be seen from some astonishing photography by Eric, our host.

One of the eland takes an unbelievably high jump
An eland takes an unbelievably high jump, clearing the Land Cruiser that was obstructing its escape path © Dex Kotze

Hippo sundowners

The large hippo population in the Mara River, combined with backdrops of idyllic African sunsets, provided the picturesque scene that had everyone reaching for their cameras – with sundowner drinks in hand.

Hippo pods in the river are plentiful, and I was surprised by how many submerged hippo bulls appeared seemingly out of nowhere every few minutes in a splendid display of power, with water gushing around their large legs as they made their appearance known to all the cows.

The Mara River is home to a large hippo population
The Mara River is home to a large hippo population. Here, a bull is making his presence known to the cows © Dex Kotze

A highlight was the one evening when Eric invited Jonathan Scott, of BBC Big Cat Diary fame, to join us for dinner and share his experiences of over 30 years in the Mara. A charming and intelligent man, Jonathan delighted us with many captivating tales of his Kenyan adventures after studying Zoology in Britain and settling in Africa; a fantastic artist and wildlife photographer living the dream life in paradise.

On the last day, we enjoyed another hearty breakfast while observing life on the vast savannah plains. We embraced the final game drive with a bit of sadness before departing on a Cessna Caravan plane from the Talek airstrip en-route to Wilson Airport in Nairobi.

Karen Blixen’s paradise provided us with a whirlwind trip that will never be forgotten.

Have a look at our bucket-list safaris below:
• The great wildebeest migration season 7-day safari in Maasai Mara
• Family safari in the Maasai Mara
• The ‘secret season’ in Maasai Mara – Lower prices

Africa Geographic Travel

 ABOUT THE AUTHOR


Dex Kotze’s passion for wildlife photojournalism and the bush encouraged him to encompass his business network and marketing expertise to assist in raising funds and global awareness for the plight of Africa’s endangered species, particularly rhinos, elephants and lions. In 2012, he founded Youth 4 African Wildlife, a global initiative that educates youths to become actively involved in conservation, using photography and social media marketing to advocate against wildlife trafficking.
He has researched the Chinese luxury markets extensively and works on strategies through his networks for the reduction of the trading of rhino horn and ivory.

The angry hippo and a tragic Mara River crossing

Hippo and dead wildebeest in Mara River in Maasai Mara, Kenya
© Paolo Torchio

There is only a month and a half to go until our Photographer of the Year 2018 closes for entries, and so far we have received some incredible photos that do more than just show wildlife doing what they do best, but they also tell a story.

Paolo Torchio – a professional wildlife photographer based in Kenya – sent in a photo of a dominant male hippo who was taking his frustration out on the carcasses of wildebeest after a tragic Mara River crossing. He now shares with us this amazing wildlife encounter that he managed to capture on camera.

Wildebeest crossing the Mara River in Maasai Mara, Kenya
© Paolo Torchio

Written, and photographs, by Paolo Torchio 

Every year, from around July through to October, around two million animals migrate from Tanzania to Kenya. During this long journey, they are forced to cross several rivers, some of them infested by crocodiles, which carries a huge risk of loss of life in the water.

Angry hippo around dead wildebeest in Mara River in Maasai Mara, Kenya
© Paolo Torchio

The crossing of rivers can be quite tragic as the animals can also die from suffocation by their own herd during the frantic and chaotic effort to climb the steep banks of the rivers.

In addition, crocodiles are not the only dangerous animal that lurks in the river, waiting to prey on these migrating animals. A gigantic and irascible hippo can create the same devastation as that of a crocodile, and despite the fact that they are known to have an aggressive nature and display unexpected behaviour, a cold-blooded kill by a hippo is rarely caught on camera.

Hippo approaching wildebeest in Mara River in Maasai Mara, Kenya
© Paolo Torchio

Last year in late July, from the banks of Mara River, I was taking pictures of one of the first seasonal crossings. The confusion was immense as hundreds of wildebeest were dying in the stampede and at the end of the mayhem, the carnage was tremendous.

Hippo chasing wildebeest in Mara River in Maasai Mara, Kenya
© Paolo Torchio

Suddenly, from the carcasses that have piled up against the bank, a lone wildebeest got onto his feet – dirty, shaken, confused, but alive – and went back into the water with the intention to reach the opposite side of the river.

Hippo grabbing onto wildebeest in Mara River in Maasai Mara, Kenya
© Paolo Torchio

Unfortunately, it was just not his day as one angry male hippo immediately confronted the wildebeest, chased him in the water, and then killed him instantly with his enormous jaws!

Hippo kills a wildebeest in Mara River in Maasai Mara, Kenya
© Paolo Torchio

It was so sad to see that wildebeest escape death against all the odds, only then to be brutally killed without a practical reason – not for food by an hungry predator, but at the wrath of an angry bull hippo.

Hippo on the bank of the Mara River with dead wildebeest in Maasai Mara, Kenya
© Paolo Torchio

Unique sighting: Cheetahs in group mating frenzy

Cheetahs mating in Maasai Mara National Reserve in Kenya
© Elena Chelysheva

We’re just over halfway through our Photographer of the Year 2018 and every day we are receiving fantastic entries of African wildlife, landscapes and culture. Elena Chelysheva, from Mara-Meru Cheetah Project, sent in photos of a unique sighting of mating cheetahs in Kenya. She now shares with us this amazing wildlife encounter that she managed to capture on camera.

Female cheetah walking away from male cheetah in Maasai Mara National Reserve in Kenya
© Elena Chelysheva

Written, and photographs, by Elena Chelysheva – Project Founder and Principal Investigator of Mara-Meru Cheetah Project

In the last days of December 2016, a coalition of five males appeared in the Maasai Mara National Reserve in Kenya from one of the adjacent conservancies. It was the largest cheetah male coalition ever observed in the Mara and they were named the ‘Fast Five’.

Within a few next months, one of the smallest males became not only one of the biggest, but also the decision-maker and ‘first’ leader of the group. There was clearly a hierarchy in the group, and since July 2017 two apparent leaders emerged, with a ‘second’ leader playing more of a peacemaker role – often standing up for bullied males and fighting against the first leader.

Cheetahs mating in Maasai Mara National Reserve in Kenya
© Elena Chelysheva

It is extremely difficult to witness cheetahs mating in the wild as they shy, and although they display courtship behaviour during the daytime the actual mating takes place at night.

The key to successful mating is avoiding the competition, and in some Mara cheetah male coalitions, brothers split for the time of courtship so that only one gets a chance to mate, or males take turns with the same female. In the case of a big coalition, chances to escape with a female are low.

Four cheetahs trying to mate with female in Maasai Mara National Reserve in Kenya
© Elena Chelysheva

On 19 December 2017, the four males (without the first leader) encountered the five-year-old female called Nora.

The second leader used his chance with Nora when the other three went hunting, following her when she started moving off. As he approached her, she took the posture for mating – crouching and pulling the tail aside – and he immediately mounted her. While copulation was in process, the three other males returned, and when noticing what was going on rushed to the mating couple to participate.

Female cheetah runs away from male cheetahs in Maasai Mara National Reserve in Kenya
© Elena Chelysheva

After a while, and once things had calmed down a bit, Nora started enthusiastically rolling over – an indication of a successful mating.

Five cheetahs in Maasai Mara National Reserve in Kenya
© Elena Chelysheva

Unfortunately, soon after that a lioness appeared in the distance, attracted by the cheetahs’ vocalisations. The cheetahs dispersed and the males lost visual contact with Nora, who they tried to locate into the night, calling loudly for her return.

Cheetahs watch a lion in Maasai Mara National Reserve in Kenya
© Elena Chelysheva

Research: Are there too many elephants in Botswana?

Elephant going through the water in Botswana
An elephant in the Mababe floodplains in northern Botswana © Gail Potgieter

Written by Gail Potgieter ~ Conserve Botswana

Elephants: the majestic gentle giants of the African savannah. Their enormous intelligence and close family bonds fascinate safari-goers and scientists alike. Whilst strolling through the bush, they shovel masses of grass into their mouths and occasionally bump into the odd tree – effortlessly breaking large branches and even pushing the whole thing over. Elephants are awesome creatures, and even lions keep a respectful distance from these megaherbivores.

All of the unique characteristics that put elephants at the top of the must-see list for many international visitors also serve to create controversy and management headaches among conservationists. These giants need gigantic amounts of space and natural resources – at one point in history, this was not a problem, as all of Africa except the Sahara was available to them. Today’s remnant populations have been constricted to relatively small areas, which are often fenced and managed by humans. Their food requirements, however, have not changed – they need to eat anywhere between 140 and 490 kg of plant matter every single day! Additionally, they are highly dependent on water, and each bull elephant will drink up to 120 litres per day.

In short, the impact of elephants does not go unnoticed in the African savannah. Certainly, the effects of Botswana’s 130,000 pachyderms are easy to see from just a cursory glance at the landscape. Broken and uprooted trees are the most obvious signs of elephants, but they also eat huge amounts of grass and other small plants (called forbs). Whilst elephants mainly eat grass and forbs in the wet summer season, they rely on trees (leaves, bark, roots) to get them through the dry winter season. Trees are therefore most vulnerable to being de-barked and uprooted in the late dry season.

Mopane woodland in northern Botswana
A mopane woodland in October 2010 at a location in northern Botswana © Christiaan Winterbach

These facts leave us in no doubt about the enormous impacts that elephants have in any ecosystem where they occur. Although Botswana’s elephant population is not overly restricted by fences (as are those in many of southern Africa’s protected areas), they seem to concentrate in northern Botswana. In particular, huge herds of elephants congregate by the Chobe River during the dry season – a spectacular sight for tourists, but a cause for concern among ecologists.

Destroyed mopane woodland in Botswana
The same mopane woodland in October 2013 showing large-scale elephant damage © Christiaan Winterbach
The elephant debate

The question that many ask is: Are there too many elephants in Botswana? This question, however, begs another more critical question – how do we know how many is too many? This latter question is subject to enormous debate within southern Africa, which focuses on the ecological carrying capacity of certain National Parks for elephants. Carrying capacity is often seen as a ‘golden number’ of elephants, beyond which they begin to overuse the local ecosystem, thus damaging it and negatively affecting other species. On the other side of the debate, some point out that whilst elephants seem to cause enormous destruction in the immediate vicinity of waterholes, this does not necessarily mean that they are destroying the entire ecosystem.

These debates are far from merely academic. If those warning that there are too many elephants for ecosystems to support are right, then something needs to be done before the damage becomes irreparable. What that ‘something’ entails, however, is often too terrible for most elephant-loving people to consider. The large-scale elephant culling operations suggested by some are not a popular solution, unsurprisingly. Other options, like translocation and contraception are more palatable, but too expensive to be used on large elephant populations. In particular, the sheer size of Botswana’s elephant population means that none of these solutions is currently practical – including culling. However, some commentators warn of catastrophic consequences for all species if nothing is done, and soon.

A local scientific contribution

Avoiding emotionally charged debates based on little more than informed opinion, researchers from Botswana decided to tackle the critical elephant question head-on. Dr. Keoikantse Sianga and Dr. Richard Fynn of the Okavango Research Institute (a specialised department of the University of Botswana) joined forces with three Dutch researchers from Wageningen University in a vegetation study focusing on a large natural area called the Savuti-Mababe-Linyanti Ecosystem. This enormous area of nearly 30,000 square kilometres lies between the Okavango Delta, the Mababe Depression and the Linyanti Swamps, and therefore hosts a healthy proportion of Botswana’s elephants.

Researches in the field in Botswana with elephant in background
The researchers doing fieldwork. Note the elephants in the background! © Jip Vrooman

They chose this particular area as it is almost untouched by human management efforts, unlike most other locations in southern Africa. Only one pan is artificially pumped to maintain water throughout the dry season in their entire study area, and there are no fences within the area to inhibit elephant movement. They could therefore ask: in the virtual absence of human interference, are there too many elephants for this ecosystem to support? Additionally, this important work reveals how elephants naturally affect their habitat, thus providing a baseline to compare with other areas that are heavily managed. Whilst not resolving the elephant debate, this scientific knowledge can help wildlife managers in southern Africa to better understand the problem and consequently make better decisions to resolve it.

Rather than trying to calculate the ‘golden number’ of elephants that can be supported by the ecosystem, the research team sought to answer the underlying question – is the current elephant population is actually damaging the ecosystem? They viewed ecosystem health as its ‘heterogeneity’, which is an indication of how many different habitats are available for different species (known as ecological niches). A heterogeneous ecosystem has many different species of trees and grass, all growing to different heights. Some grazing herbivores prefer tall grass, whereas others prefer short grass; some bird species prefer dense shrubs to live and nest in, whereas others prefer tall trees. Consequently, to support a large variety of animals, you need a variety of different habitats, which can be measured directly by looking at the plants.

If the plants in the Savuti-Mababe-Linyanti ecosystem were all the same species, or all the same height, it would indicate a serious problem. Something (e.g. elephants) would be ‘homogenising’ the ecosystem; i.e. reducing the number of habitats available for other species. If, however, the system is still heterogeneous (i.e. containing many plant species of different heights), then it can still harbour a good diversity of species.

Understanding elephant behaviour and biology helped the team develop a suitable way to test how elephants are influencing the ecosystem. Although elephants can traverse great distances if they want to, they are highly dependent on water and must drink daily. During the wet season, water dependence is not an issue, as temporary natural pans fill up with water, thus allowing many elephants to move away from permanent water sources and use most of the ecosystem. However, in the dry season these pans dry up, and elephants have to stay close enough to rivers and permanent lakes to return to them on a daily basis. The average distance that bull elephants will stray from water in a day in search of food is around 15 kilometres, whereas herds of females and their young ones will only go as far as 5 kilometres. Consequently, the largest elephant impact will be found less than 5 km from permanent water, with less impact in the 5-15 km zone, and minimal impact over 20 km from water (only accessible to elephants during the wet season).

The research team investigated the species diversity and plant height of trees, grasses, and forbs in each of these three zones on four different routes through their study area. They also counted the dung of elephants and other herbivores to find out how much these places were visited by herbivores. Finally, they obtained fire records for the last 15 years to ensure that the effects of fire could be separated from the effects of elephants and other herbivores.

Researcher in the field in Botswana
One of the researchers measuring tree height © Jip Vrooman

Their results revealed that, rather than irreparably damaging the ecosystem, elephants actually help maintain heterogeneity by improving grass and forb species richness in the zone closest to permanent water. These grasses were kept short through year-round grazing by elephants and other herbivores. In contrast, the zone furthest from water was dominated by high-quality long grasses, which are preferred by species such as sable and roan antelope. These results were found in the vegetation type known as sandveld, which is especially important for grazers, as it supports a rich diversity of grass species.

Similarly, trees were taller in the zones far from water than in the zone less than 5 km from water. During the dry season, elephants use trees more heavily and it is therefore not surprising that the trees closest to permanent water are frequently broken and thus kept in a shortened state. They found this trend for the two most common tree species in the ecosystem – mopane and Terminalia sericea (silver cluster leaf). Although short, stumpy shrubs look less attractive to us than tall trees, it is important that ecosystems contain both shrubs and trees.

Managing ecosystem health in Botswana – recommendations

The researchers concluded that the large population of elephants in northern Botswana perform a key ecological role by maintaining heterogeneity in the ecosystem. There is, however, one important caveat to this conclusion: this system can continue to sustain large elephant numbers only as long as there are large distances (at least 50 km) between permanent water sources.

The fact that young elephants cannot walk as far as adults between food and water is one of the key natural ways of preventing elephant populations from growing too large. In long dry seasons, adult females are forced to move further away from water to find food, and this may mean that some calves do not survive the dry season. They therefore warn against developing new waterholes in this ecosystem for two reasons. Firstly, the impacts of large elephant herds all year every year would soon turn the whole area into short grass and shrubs with little species diversity, to the detriment of other animals that prefer long grass and trees. Secondly, providing permanent waterholes would remove one of the few natural mechanisms for limiting elephant numbers.

These warnings are not idle, as they build on harsh lessons learned in other places. It is also about more than just elephants. Studies in the Kruger National Park show that when waterholes were developed throughout the park (such that the average distance to water in the dry season was a mere 6 km), the habitat for sable and roan shrank, as water-dependent grazers (e.g. zebra and buffalo) moved into previously waterless regions. The ultimate result was a tragic population crash of both species, and very few can be found in the Kruger today. Predators like lions are also favoured by increasing waterholes, as many of their preferred prey species are water-dependent. Although this sounds great for tourism, larger lion populations may have contributed to the crash of roan and sable, and are likely to reduce the number of African wild dogs. These are just two examples of the unintended negative consequences of artificial waterholes. Northern Botswana currently hosts healthy populations of roan, sable, and African wild dogs. Lessons learned from the Kruger should therefore provide major pause for thought before developing waterholes in this region.

Sable antelope in Botswana
A family of sable antelope in the wild in northern Botswana © Rob Thomson

Similarly, the researchers warn that the waterholes in the Chobe region are the primary cause for large-scale elephant damage seen far beyond the Chobe River. However, the tall trees growing along the Chobe River (a vegetation type known as riparian woodland) are a special cause for concern, as elephants gather in high numbers along the riverfront in the dry season. This area lacks the tall grass and sedges that can be found year-round on the floodplains in the Okavango Delta, which means that the elephants along the Chobe River rely almost entirely on trees – to the detriment of riparian woodland. One of the research team, Dr Richard Fynn, suggests: “In areas without extensive tall grass floodplains, the only hope for protecting riparian woodlands is to find ways of preventing elephants from staying too long in riparian vegetation during the dry season, or by protecting specific trees from elephants.”

The researchers point out that fencing that restricts elephant movements during the wet season is also likely to increase pressure on the ecosystem. Rather than allowing the short grasslands near permanent water to rest during the dry season, the megaherbivores (elephants and buffalo) are forced to use these grasses heavily throughout the year, rather than migrating to other areas.

Artificial waterholes and barriers to elephant movement (such as fences) are thus ultimate causes of ecosystem damage, rather than the elephants themselves, which simply respond to the available resources. Simply removing many elephants will not solve the underlying problem, so the population will keep rebounding and there will be an endless battle for the health of the ecosystem.

For the moment, the Savuti-Mababe-Linyanti Ecosystem remains intact. However, the researchers recommend that this area should be carefully monitored and that pumping new waterholes should be tightly regulated. Furthermore, the prevalence of current waterholes in the Chobe Region (east of their study area) and threats to elephants beyond Botswana’s borders that restrict elephants to northern Botswana are key issues that need to be addressed. Allowing elephants to move freely over large, unfenced areas is a regional challenge that needs to be discussed between Botswana and neighbouring countries. Perhaps it is time the debate around elephants evolves from carrying capacity numbers and elephant management to ecosystem health and landscape management.

Full report: SciELO SA – Koedoe vol.59 n.2 Pretoria 2017, Keoikantse Sianga; Mario van Telgen; Jip Vrooman; Richard W.S. Fynn; Frank van Langevelde: Spatial refuges buffer landscapes against homogenisation and degradation by large herbivore populations and facilitate vegetation heterogeneity

Elephants in water in northern Botswana
Elephants enjoying a seasonal pan during the late wet season. When this pan dries up, they will move to permanent water sources in northern Botswana © Gail Potgieter

Trump administration to allow elephant trophy imports on “case-by-case basis”

African elephant in Zimbabwe grassland

Sourced from third-party site: The Hill, written by Miranda Green

The Fish and Wildlife Service (FWS) announced last week that it will now consider all permits for importing elephant trophies from African nations on a “case-by-case basis”, breaking from President Trump’s earlier promises to maintain an Obama-era ban on the practice.

In a formal memorandum issued on Thursday, FWS said it will withdraw its 2017 Endangered Species Act (ESA) findings for trophies of African elephants from Zimbabwe and Zambia, “effective immediately”. The memo said “the findings are no longer effective for making individual permit determinations for imports of sport-hunted African elephant trophies”.

In its place, FWS will instead “grant or deny permits to import a sport-hunted trophy on a case-by-case basis”.

FWS said it will still consider the information included in the ESA findings, as well as science-based risk assessments of the species’ vulnerability when evaluating each permit request. The service also announced it is withdrawing a number of previous ESA findings, which date back to 1995, related to trophies of African elephants, bontebok and lions from multiple African countries.

The decision to withdraw the FWS findings followed a D.C. Circuit Court decision in December that found fault with the initial Obama-era rule, which banned importing elephant hunting trophies from Zimbabwe.

“In response to a recent D.C. Circuit Court’s opinion, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service is revising its procedure for assessing applications to import certain hunted species. We are withdrawing our countrywide enhancement findings for a range of species across several countries,” a spokesperson for FWS said in a statement. “In their place, the Service intends to make findings for trophy imports on an application-by-application basis.”

A federal appeals court ruled at the end of last year that the Obama administration did not follow the right procedures when it drafted its ban on the imports. The court also said the FWS should have gone through the extensive process of proposing a regulation, inviting public comment and making the regulation final when it made determinations in 2014 and 2015 that elephant trophies cannot be brought into the country.

The agency used the same procedures as the Obama administration for its ESA determination in 2017 that led to reopening African elephant imports to the U.S. in November. At the time, a FWS spokesperson said the reversal “will enhance the survival of the species in the wild.”

Following the fall announcement to overturn the ban, the Trump administration faced immense backlash, which played a role in leading the president to denounce elephant hunting and promise to re-establish the ban. Trump in February called the administration’s initial decision to overturn the Obama-era ban “terrible”.

In an interview with British journalist Piers Morgan, Trump said he had decided to officially turn the order around.

“I didn’t want elephants killed and stuffed and have the tusks brought back into this [country] and people can talk all they want about preservation and all of the things that they’re saying where money goes towards ― well, money was going ― in that case, going to a government which was probably taking the money, OK?” Trump said.

Despite the president’s tweets and interviews, however, FWS and the Interior Department remained tight-lipped as to the status of the ban. Numerous requests for information to FWS from The Hill over several months were referred to Interior and left unanswered. (continue reading full story)

Fantastic sighting: Honey badger versus jackals

Honey badger and black-backed jackal with giraffe carcass in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
© Willem Kruger – Nikon D4 & Nikkor 300mmf2.8 lens, 1/3200 sec, f8, ISO 2000

We’re just over halfway through our Photographer of the Year 2018 and every day we are receiving fantastic entries. Willem Kruger, a winner from our 2017 competition sent in a photo of a honey badger and black-backed jackals interacting over a giraffe carcass. He now shares with us this amazing wildlife encounter that he managed to capture on camera.

Male lion with giraffe carcass in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
© Willem Kruger – Nikon D500 & Nikkor 70-200mmf2.8 lens, 1/500 sec, f4, ISO 250

Written, and photographs, by Willem Kruger

On a trip to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in November 2017, we came across an interesting interaction around a giraffe kill near the Kwang waterhole in the northeastern part of the park. A pride of lions had killed a giraffe next to the road about 300 metres north of the waterhole. When we first arrived at the sighting in the late afternoon a male lion was still feeding on the carcass on the grassy bank next to the road. The black-backed jackals kept a safe distance away from the carcass and the lion. We took a few photos and then left the sighting as we had to still reach Nossob rest camp before the gate closed for the day.

Black-backed jackals with giraffe carcass in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
© Willem Kruger – Nikon D4 & Nikkor 600mmf4 lens, 1/4000 sec, f8, ISO 1600

The next morning we drove north along the Nossob River back to the sighting. On arrival we saw that the lion had abandoned the carcass and the black-backed jackals had clearly made use of this opportunity – there were 15 of them around the kill! We parked our vehicle about 30 metres from them to capture the interaction amongst the jackals feeding on the carcass.

While watching the jackals, we heard movement in the grass bank next to our vehicle. To our surprise, a honey badger was moving through the grass very close to our vehicle.

Honey badger in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
© Willem Kruger – Nikon D500 & Nikkor 600mmf4 lens, 1/1250 sec, f8, ISO 2000

The honey badger passed right underneath our vehicle and approached the carcass. Some of the jackals were disturbed by the approaching badger, while others just kept on eating. The badger approached the carcass very cautiously, and surprisingly the jackals did not back away at all. He took his time to sniff around but did not try to eat anything.

Honey badger and black-backed jackal with giraffe carcass in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
© Willem Kruger – Nikon D4 & Nikkor 300mmf2.8 lens, 1/5000 sec, f5.6, ISO 1000

A few of the jackals followed the badger all around the carcass and this seemed to make him nervous. Eventually, the jackals persuaded the badger to leave the carcass without a fight and he made his way over the sandbank on the opposite side of the road.

Honey badger and black-backed jackal with giraffe carcass in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
© Willem Kruger – Nikon D4 & Nikkor 300mmf2.8 lens, 1/4000 sec, f5.6, ISO 1000

We thought the badger was not interested in carrion as we believed that they only eat freshly killed animals. We followed him as he made his way towards the Kwang waterhole, followed by a jackal or two.

Black-backed jackal sniffing honey badger with giraffe carcass in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
© Willem Kruger – Nikon D4 & Nikkor 300mmf2.8 lens, 1/4000 sec, f5.6, ISO 1000

He reached the waterhole and started to drink in the early morning sunlight under the watchful eye of a nearby jackal.

Honey badger and black-backed jackal at waterhole in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
© Willem Kruger – Nikon D500 & Nikkor 600mmf4 lens, 1/6400 sec, f4, ISO 640

After drinking, the badger crossed the road again but did not approach the carcass. He gave a quick glance in our direction – just enough time to get an interesting portrait photo and then he disappeared into the grass. We went back to the carcass and spent about an hour there photographing the jackals, tawny eagles and vultures that had descended.

Vulture and black-backed jackal with giraffe carcass in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
© Willem Kruger – Nikon D500 & Nikkor 600mmf4 lens, 1/1250 sec, f8, ISO 2000

For our afternoon game drive we decided to drive directly to the carcass again to see what had transpired since last we were there – we were hoping for more jackal and possible jackal-vulture interaction like we had that morning. On our arrival, we found that the carcass had been dragged off the road back up to the bank and there was just one jackal sniffing around.

Honey badger eating giraffe carcass in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
© Willem Kruger – Nikon D500 & Nikkor 300mmf2.8 lens, 1/6400 sec, f8, ISO 640

We decided to move off and head north, however, on our way back to Nossob we once again passed the carcass and to our surprise found the same male honey badger now feeding on the carcass!

As is expected, the jackals were not impressed with the presence of the badger. Some of them tried to intimidate the badger but unlike that morning, the badger was unperturbed and even showed aggression towards those that bothered him.

Honey badger being aggressive with black-backed jackal in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
© Willem Kruger – Nikon D4 & Nikkor 300mmf2.8 lens, 1/3200 sec, f8, ISO 2000

However, most of the jackals kept a safe distance from him. Every now and again one of the jackals would approach the badger from behind, smelling him and one even tried to bite him! The badger’s only reaction to this was to turn around and show his teeth. The jackals would then made hasty retreats to a safe distance.

The occasional jackal that did stand its ground was, however, not attacked by the badger – he just showed his own aggression and went back to looking for more meat on the carcass.

Black-backed jackal sniffing honey badger in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
© Willem Kruger – Nikon D500 & Nikkor 600mmf4 lens, 1/640 sec, f4, ISO 250

After about half-an-hour, the badger stood up and left the carcass without looking back. We tried to follow him but he disappeared amongst the grass and bushes. We stayed with the carcass for another 20 minutes but the badger did not return.

Honey badger walking in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
© Willem Kruger – Nikon D500 & Nikkor 600mmf4 lens, 1/4000 sec, f8, ISO 640

For us this was a very special sighting for the following reasons. Firstly, to see a honey badger feeding on a carcass killed by lions, and secondly, to find a giraffe (even though it was dead) so far north in the eastern part (Nossob River side) of the park.

We initially though the carcass was an eland because we have never seen giraffes in this area. However, the staff at Africa Geographic immediately identified the carcass as that of a giraffe. The giraffes in this park are usually found along the Auob River bed in the western side of the park from Mata Mata rest camp southwards towards the Gemsbokplein waterhole.

Black-backed jackal pulling the tail of a giraffe carcass in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
© Willem Kruger – Nikon D4 & Nikkor 300mmf2.8 lens, 1/3200 sec, f8, ISO 2000

The Sad 5: Endangered animals you don’t see in the headlines

Author: Raeesah Chandlay

Cape vulture at Drakensberg
The Cape vulture, considered one of the Ugly 5, and now also part of the Sad 5 © Francesco Veronesi/WikiCommons

With the lion’s share of international hype seized by flagship species, lesser-known endangered animals seem to succumb to the shadows. Naturally, attention is drawn to more charismatic species and national icons. And while every effort is needed now more than ever to save our rhinos, elephants, and big cats, it is equally important not to forget the little guys.

These five species are among Africa’s most endangered, yet many people don’t even know they exist.

Riverine rabbit (Bunolagus monticularis)

Status: Critically Endangered

Also known as the bushman hare, this lagomorph is one of the most endangered animals in the world. Endemic to the Karoo region of South Africa, their exact numbers are unknown, but it is estimated that there are less than 250 breeding pairs in the wild. Agricultural development is causing the degradation of their specialised habitat along riverbanks, pushing them precariously close to the brink of extinction.

On a positive note, Cape Nature has discovered a new breeding population in the succulent Karoo.

Riverine rabbit in the Karoo, South Africa
Riverine rabbit © Jeremy Bolton (BushCam Consulting)

Pickersgill’s reed frog (Hyperolius pickersgilli)

Status: Endangered

Frogs are among the least loved animals on the planet. Yet these under-appreciated creatures play a vital role in nature. Other than serving as biological pest control and an important source of food for many animals, frogs are also excellent ecological indicators. This means that they provide us with valuable information about the habitat and overall health of the ecosystem – in part due to their sensitivity to environmental changes.

Pickergill’s reed frogs have very specific habitat requirements and are only found in the wetlands of a small fragmented area along the coast of KwaZulu-Natal in South Africa. Wetland degradation caused by coastal development, mining, invasive species, and agriculture has put this tiny amphibian’s survival at stake.

Pickersgill's reed frog
Pickergill’s reed frog © Nick Evans

Knysna seahorse (Hippocampus capensis)

Status: Endangered

This rare sea critter is the most endangered seahorse in the world. Captive breeding programs have been underway for the last two decades but major habitat reclamation efforts are imperative or the future is bleak for wild populations.

The Knysna seahorse is only found in three estuaries in South Africa and the quality of their habitat is sharply declining due to the pressures associated with an increasing population. The Knysna estuary is heavily impacted by industrial, domestic and recreational activities. In recent times, poaching and illegal trade have also contributed to their decline.

Knysna seahorse
Knysna seahorse © Professor Charles Griffiths

Golden moles

Status: Near Threatened to Endangered

What does it take for a species to be deemed important enough to conserve? Once protected by the National Environmental Management Act, golden moles are not regarded as an economically important species and are thus no longer protected. Of the 21 species of golden mole, no fewer than 11 are threatened with extinction.

Unfortunately for these guys, they may not last much longer without protection. Impacts from agriculture, mining, urban expansion, and infrastructure development have severely fragmented their range. They now only exist in three geographically separated populations. The isolation of populations leads to inbreeding which results in poor genes – putting the species at risk of extinction.

Awareness campaigns are desperately needed to raise the profile of this highly elusive animal before they completely disappear.

Cape Golden Mole
Cape golden mole © Jon Richfield/WikiCommons

Cape Vulture (Gyps coprotheres)

Status: Endangered

This unfortunate raptor is the poster child for bad press. They are also one of the Ugly 5, and always portrayed as the bad guy in fiction works, but the hard knocks don’t end there. The Cape vulture is the victim of at least sixteen known threats jeopardising its survival. At the top of the list is the contamination of their food supply by means of certain drugs – poisonous to vultures – which are being used to treat livestock. They also inadvertently ingest pest-control poisons intended for other animals. Electrocution by collision with power lines is another critical issue and is a primary cause for the declines of several other bird species. Vultures also fall prey to illegal harvesting for traditional medicine.

An underrated beast, the vulture is crucial to ecosystem functions. Specialised for scavenging, they play a critical role in waste removal and nutrient cycling. Other scavengers depend on vultures to find carcasses. Studies reflect that vulture declines can lead to severe ecosystem imbalances.

Cape vulture
Cape vulture © Bushwise
What can we do?

Over the last decade, previously underrated animals like the pangolin and African wild dog drew international attention and media hype. Raising the profiles of these species initiated increased conservation efforts across the globe. These five unsung heroes deserve the centre stage for the important ecological roles they play and the threats they face at our hands. We owe it to them give them the pedestal, raise awareness, and increase efforts to keep them off the extinction list.

11 Leopard facts you need to know

Female leopard lying down
© Benjamin Ackerman

The African leopard (Panthera pardus) is an elegant and powerfully-built predator. It is the most secretive and elusive big cat, and arguably one of the most beautiful members of the entire Panthera genus.

Here are 11 facts about the African leopard that you need to know:

1. Because of its adapted retinas, leopards can see seven times better in the dark than humans.

2. Black leopards are seen infrequently in parts of Africa. The difference in colour is not indicative of a separate sub-species, but rather dominance of the dark-coloured pigment melanin in the skin, and is the opposite of albinism. Talking about the leopard’s physical appearance, there is a considerable variation in the coat colour and rosette patterns depending on the location of the animal. In East Africa, the leopard’s rosettes are more circular but tend to be more square-shaped in southern Africa. The yellow coat is paler in the desert regions.

3. Portrayed as the most seldom seen, leopards are actually the most widely distributed African big cat. They can be found in a variety of habitats ranging from desert country to equatorial forests, high mountains to coasts. Few can also be spotted on the outskirts of large cities like Pretoria, Harare and Nairobi.

Leopard climbing tree
Leopards use their incredible agility and strength to climb trees with ease © Benjamin Ackerman

4. Leopards are spectacular hunters! Not only are they quite fast and can run up to 58km/h, but are also famous for their incredible agility and strength to climb trees while dragging a kill that is sometimes heavier than their body weight.

5. Leopards survive on a variety of prey. For example, in some regions of southern Africa, 80% of their diet comprises of rock hyrax. In the Kalahari Desert, they are known to favour bat-eared fox. Leopards also eat fish, insects, reptiles, birds, rodents, porcupines, mongoose, baboons, genets and monkeys.

Leopard with kill in tree
© Benjamin Ackerman

6. How do you tell the difference between a leopard, cheetah and jaguar? Look at the spots! Leopards have rosette spots on the body and solid black spots on the legs, head and sides. There are also no black facial stripes, unlike cheetahs. Compared to jaguars, leopards do not have smaller spots inside the polygonal rosettes.

7. To recognise a male from a female take a look at the difference in size. Males are usually much larger and stockier and have a significantly bigger head and paws compared to females. Male bushveld leopards can weigh up to 90kgs, with female’s around 60kgs. The Cape leopard (not a separate species or sub-species) is much smaller with males around 35kg and females around 20kg.

Leopard jumping over water
Leopards can leap over six metres. This is where its curled tail comes in handy as it helps the leopard maintain balance and aids in steering the jump © Benjamin Ackerman

8. African leopards mate throughout the year, but a higher sexual activity is recorded during the wet season.

9. Female leopards protect their young cubs by hiding them in lairs. Lairs can be found in a variety of places, including outcrops of granite boulders, old aardvark holes made in the side of termite mounds, or dense thickets at the bottom of deep galleys. These hiding places serve as a refuge for when the mother is away, as lions and hyenas pose a significant threat to the cubs. The mother changes the lair every few days to eliminate the chances of discovery by other predators.

African leopard in the wild
© Benjamin Ackerman

10. Leopards make a variety of sounds, including a territorial hoarse, raspy cough, a contented purr, and a threatening hiss.

11. Even though most photographs show leopards in trees, research reveals that they spend most of their time on the ground. Leopards use trees as the perfect escape point from predators; to keep their kills out of the reach of scavengers, and to get the best vantage point.

Leopard in a tree
Leopards may rest on the branches of trees, but during the heat of the day prefer to seek shade somewhere on the ground © Benjamin Ackerman

The Mighty Zambezi: More than a River

She goes from lazy and beguiling to a raging beast capable of pounding a man and his ambitions into submission. Indeed, the Zambezi River is quite a lady…

Most people know the Zambezi as that intoxicating cauldron of the elements and humankind at Victoria Falls – where that massive river inhales and forces itself into a few narrow channels, before plunging a hundred hurly-burly metres onto the rocks below. Mosi-oa-Tunya – ‘the smoke that thunders’. That heady, somewhat eclectic, mix of 5-star luxury safari and backpacker basics, of gentle sunset cruises and bruising white-water rafting …

Victoria Falls
An aerial photo of the legendary Victoria Falls, also known as ‘the smoke that thunders’ © Janine Mortimer

The life force of southern Africa

But the Zambezi is more than that – far more than that. It is the lifeblood of southern Africa, providing drinking water, food, irrigation, transport, tourism services and more. Many significant, east-flowing rivers in the region marry into the Zambezi kingdom before completing their quest to reach the Indian Ocean. Yes, the Zambezi gobbles up the likes of the Chobe, Kafue and Luangwa rivers on her way to complete dominance.

I am one of the privileged few who have charted her waters from source to sea, an experience that will forever remain etched in my memory.

Group of people gliding down the Zambezi River
Canoeing down the Zambezi is a popular activity, with spectacular wildlife encounters © Zambezi Expeditions

The 2,574km-long Zambezi River has a 1,390,000 km2 catchment area, making her the fourth-largest river in Africa, after the Nile, Congo and Niger rivers.
She goes through three phases in her journey from source to mouth, and visits six countries – Zambia, Angola, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Mozambique. First, she is a vast floodplain in remote western Zambia, and then a river as we know it as she squeezes between five countries, and finally a delta at journey’s end in Mozambique – the Indian Ocean. Of course, man has tried to tame her wild ways along the way, and the dams Kariba and Cahora Bassa, both of which generate hydro-electricity for the region, create brief moments for pause in her journey. Kariba Dam holds back the world’s largest man-made lake, at 226km long and up to 40km wide in places; and 86 men lost their lives before construction was completed in 1977.

A travellers’ paradise

Along the way, the Zambezi offers a multitude of experiences for travellers. If you scan the famous names below, you will cover most of southern Africa’s top safari destinations!

If you seek isolation and zero infrastructure, then Barotseland, Liuwa Plain and Sioma Ngwezi in western Zambia are the ticket. Look out for the annual wildebeest migration in Liuwa Plain, but be warned that this entire area is not to be taken on unless you are well prepared, or with an experienced operator.
Much of this area becomes a vast mass of water during the wet summer season, with people, livestock and wild animals fleeing to higher ground. The famous Ku-omboka is a ceremonial enactment of this annual pilgrimage as the Lozi chief leads his people to dry ground. Dry land could, of course, be a small mound surrounded by rising water – as a few trillion ratty ants and I found out one evening during my sojourn from source to mouth…

The annual wildebeest migration in Liuwa Plains
The iconic annual wildebeest migration in Liuwa Plain © Andrew Macdonald

If you seek more traditional safari experiences then the stretch of the river forming Zambia’s international border with Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Mozambique are where you should head. Isolation is still the keyword in much of this section, but of course, areas near Victoria Falls are very accessible. Famous names like the Caprivi Strip, Chobe National Park, Lake Kariba, Mana Pools and Lower Zambezi National Park provide legendary wildlife encounters. And then, of course, there is Victoria Falls.

If you enjoy the relaxed coastal life, then head for the mouth of the Zambezi. The river spreads out into a myriad of mangrove-infested channels before meeting the Indian Ocean in a heaving display. But be warned that the mouth of the river is almost 100 kilometres wide, with tidal swings of four metres, and you will undoubtedly get lost if you head into the mangroves without an experienced local guide. Even GPS co-ordinates are not a guarantee for not getting lost, as my fellow adventurers and I found out…

Clockwise from left: 1) Legendary white-water rafting at Victoria Falls; 2) A game drive vehicle makes its way across the flooded Barotse floodplain, near the source of the Zambezi River © Time + Tide; 3) Mana Pools is arguably Africa’s top walking safari location © Vundu Camp

The Zambezi is a lady for all seasons. Birding is generally better during the hot and wet summer months (October to March), whereas game viewing is best during the cool, dry winter months and cusp seasons (April to October). White-water rafting at Victoria Falls is available all year round but sometimes postponed if the conditions are considered too dangerous.

You could spend your lifetime exploring the Zambezi and surrounds. You can do this in supreme comfort or rustic simplicity, and anything in-between. Whether your interest lies in big game or bird watching, bushwalking, water sports or any of a myriad of activities, and whether your style is hammock or high-adrenaline, the Zambezi is the place to go. Short excursions from the river get you to northern Botswana’s predators, Kafue’s diversity, Liuwa’s migrations and much more. There are remote river lodges where you will not see another soul for weeks, and hotels are brimming with activity. Such is the diversity of the Zambezi.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Simon Espley is an African of the digital tribe, a chartered accountant and CEO of Africa Geographic. His travels in Africa are in search of wilderness, real people with interesting stories and elusive birds. He lives in Hoedspruit with his wife Lizz and two Jack Russells, and when not travelling or working, he will be on his mountain bike somewhere out there. His motto is ‘Live for now, have fun, be good, tread lightly and respect others. And embrace change.’

Breeding project to save the Knysna dwarf chameleon

A Knysna dwarf chameleon
A Knysna dwarf chameleon (Bradypodion damaranum) © Joggie van Staden / Knysna Dwarf Chameleon Project/Facebook

Written by Noelle Oosthuizen

After the fire in Knysna, in South Africa, there was so much devastation for everyone to consider. People had to salvage what they could, start rebuilding their homes, and continue to work hard to prevent further flare-ups. And in the midst of the chaos there were some conservation-minded folks who had yet another urgent question on their minds: where were all the chameleons?

The Knysna dwarf chameleon (Bradypodion damaranum) is a species of chameleon that is endemic only to that area. With no defence against the fast-moving fire, it is highly unlikely that any chameleons survived in the areas that were burnt. There is a small pocket of remaining indigenous forest that serves as the last refuge for the chameleons, along with suburban gardens – but this man-made landscape holds many dangers the chameleons aren’t prepared for, from hedge trimmers and garden shears to domestic cats and crows. Life for the urban-dwelling chameleon is a peril-filled affair.

Luckily for them, a small team of dedicated individuals have set out to change the fate of these unique creatures. Knysna resident, Aldo Kleyn, had already set up a successful chameleon-breeding project before the fire, but sadly lost 17 breeding pairs when his house burnt down. Now, in the aftermath of the fire, Aldo is rebuilding his sanctuary. He is also lending his support to Alex, Jezebel and their team from Garden Route Guardians (a community-based environmental organisation), who are working to expand this model of chameleon conservation by creating a network of guardians.

Signing up to be a guardian means committing to having a small sanctuary set up in your garden, that will house a breeding group of chameleons. Each breeding group consists of 1 male and 5-6 females, and the older the female, the more babies she births in every litter. While becoming a chameleon breeder may sound like a novel idea, the program is strictly monitored, with check-ups conducted on a regular basis.

A baby Knysna dwarf chameleon
A baby Knysna dwarf chameleon © Knysna Dwarf Chameleon Project/Facebook

It is also important to note that this breeding scheme does not require any chameleons to be removed from the wild. Instead, in the dark of the night, these wildlife rebels head out to prospective building sites, armed with flashlights, and gather up all the chameleons they can find. When day breaks construction will begin, which means certain death for any chameleons or other small creatures left behind. The reason these hunts are carried out at night is that chameleons are much easier to spot with a flashlight. All the chameleons rescued are taken back, and either paired up and placed in a breeding sanctuary or released into a chameleon-friendly garden.

Despite being nicknamed ‘slow foot’, these little creatures make use of around seven gardens as their home territory. For this reason, the team is encouraging residents to set up chameleon corridors, whereby an entire row of houses commits to keeping their gardens chameleon friendly. These wildlife corridors prove especially vital on the urban edge, allowing chameleons to move safely from the gardens to the indigenous forest and back again. Another advantage to having your neighbours on board is that it ensures that when ‘your’ chameleons climb over the fence, there isn’t a pet cat or a lawnmower waiting for them.

Chameleon in the bushes
One of the rescued chameleons © Aldo Kleyn, Knysna Dwarf Chameleon Project/Facebook

If enough guardians volunteer their backyards, the breeding project has the potential to make a real impact for the chameleon population. As it stands the Knysna dwarf chameleon is listed as least concern, on the IUCN Red List, but there has not yet been a re-count after the fire. With very little scientific population data available, the breeding program may seem like a cautionary measure. But it is very possible that it ends up being the reason this species is able to bounce back. The vision is that roughly a thousand young chameleons from the breeding program will be released back into the nature reserve every year. The babies are kept in the sanctuaries and only released back into the wild when they are bigger and have a better chance of survival. It is unlikely all thousand will survive, but even just 100 survivors would mean a boost for the population.

A few weeks ago three new chameleon babies were born. No bigger than a R5 coin at birth, it will take a while before they are big enough to be released. The Knysna Dwarf Chameleon Project is currently awaiting permits from Cape Nature before the first release can take place.

For me, there are two factors that set this project apart from a lot of other species preservation projects. Firstly, it allows individuals to be actively involved in a breeding program, and secondly, it makes use of a local solution for a local problem. This is just the beginning for the Knysna Dwarf Chameleon Project, but I believe it marks an exciting turning point for the little slow-foots.

GET INVOLVED

If you want to become a chameleon guardian, create a chameleon-friendly garden, or volunteer to help with the rescues, get in touch with Alex.

Chameleon with claw on person's finger
© Knysna Dwarf Chameleon Project/Facebook

Could naked mole-rats live forever?

Naked mole-rat eating

Naked mole-rats are weirdly spectacular – they are bare-skinned, wrinkly and buck-toothed, and they live in large underground colonies in East Africa where only the queen breeds, with a few selected males. They produce a unique protein form called hyaluronan, which has anti-cancer properties, and they don’t go through menopause and can breed at any age. They can also live without oxygen for up to 18 minutes. What’s more, they live for more than 30 years – about five times longer than other mammals of similar (mouse) size.

But there is more…

Did you know that the risk of dying in humans doubles every eight years after the age of 30? This mathematical equation that describes ageing is known as the Gompertz’s mortality law, and applies to most species.

But naked mole-rats ignore this norm – their risk of dying remains constant as they advance in age! They share this trait with a few other animals and plants, like some species of jellyfish, tortoises and trees. They do eventually die, of course, but the reasons for death are still being researched – and seem to relate to predation, infection, starving or lack of water.

According to a recent study, these fascinating creatures have a flat mortality curve.

Naked mole-rat
© Roman Klementschitz

Says Buffelstein: “Research has shown that the chance of dying for mammals such as humans, horses and mice, among others, increases exponentially with age, according to the Gompertz law. Our research demonstrates that naked mole-rats do not age in the same manner as other mammals, and in fact show little to no signs of ageing, and their risk of death does not increase with age. These findings reinforce our belief that naked mole-rats are exceptional animals to study to further our understanding of the biological mechanisms of longevity.”

The researchers based their findings on 3,329 naked mole-rats living in colonies in their research facility over more than 30 years. They found that on any given day, an average mole-rat’s chances of dying were 1 in 10,000. “Most naked mole-rats never breed, but the small proportion of mole-rats that do breed fared even better”, said study co-author J. Graham Ruby.

The full report: eLife Sciences, J. Graham Ruby, Megan Smith & Rochelle Buffenstein: “Naked mole-rat mortality rates defy gompertzian laws by not increasing with age”

Lion relocation success: Somkhanda lions reveal their cubs

Two lion cubs and mother in Somkhanda Community Game Reserve in South Africa
© Pippa Orpen

Media release by Blood Lions Campaign

In May 2017 a pride of three lions (one male and two females) arrived at their new home – Somkhanda Community Game Reserve in northern KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa, from Phinda Private Game Reserve. This translocation was carried out as part of Phinda’s lion management strategy, supported by Empowers Africa and inspired by the powerful feature documentary – Blood Lions®.

The lions were released from the boma into the greater reserve in August 2017 and have roamed freely over approximately 12,000 acres ever since.

“Soon after their release the male was seen mating with one of the females and we suspected she was pregnant,” said Wildlands’ Strategic Manager of Conservation, Dave Gilroy. “The teams then saw some signs that indicated the female had given birth and we have been anxiously waiting for her to bring the cubs out into the open. Our monitoring team finally had their first glimpse of the female with her cubs (and had a camera in hand) and we can confirm that there are four healthy and happy cubs in the litter. These cubs are the first wild lions born on Somkhanda in the past 50 plus years since lions were persecuted and exterminated from the area.”

Very young lion cub in Somkhanda Community Game Reserve in South Africa
© Pippa Orpen

“This introduction was supported and guided by the Emwokweni Community Trust and Gumbi Community’s vision to create a premier Big 5 game reserve on their land,” said Wildlands CEO and Executive Producer of the groundbreaking film, Blood Lions®, Dr Andrew Venter. “It has been a privilege to work with the Gumbi community to enable the successful re-introduction of lion onto their ancestral lands. Their vision and courage has been inspirational and sets a real example of how a deep rural community can use its land assets sustainably to stimulate local economic development. The Somkhanda lion cubs demonstrate that it is possible to expand lion range in South Africa, through real grass root conservation efforts, rather than the immoral and unethical approach adopted by South Africa’s lion breeders, who argue that they breed for conservation, yet the reality is that they simply breed for profit.”

“As one of the founders of Somkhanda I am very excited about the news of the cubs,” said Nathi Gumbi, a member of the Gumbi tribe and Wildlands’ Strategic Manager for Community Engagement. “The female will now play her role as a mother and the male will guard his cubs and their territory, keeping his family safe. This is a good example of how animals are actually similar to us as human beings. We share our lives with nature. Our ancestors and my community have welcomed the lions and we are very proud.”

Three lion cubs following their mother in Somkhanda Community Game Reserve in South Africa
© Pippa Orpen

“Blood Lions fully supports the conservation of lions in the wild,” commented Pippa Hankinson, Producer of Blood Lions®. “When one sees a great example of lion conservation in a natural area, such as the Somkhanda lion translocation project, it once again raises the question as to why South African decision-makers continue to support the captive breeding and canned hunting of lions?  As lion ecologists repeatedly state, captive-bred lions have no conservation value and attempts to reintroduce these animals into natural areas is not a viable conservation option. When visiting South Africa, one cannot surpass the incredible experience of seeing lions roaming free in the wild, as opposed to seeing them in small enclosures with no possibility of ever leading the wild lives they were born to live. There is a rapidly growing global movement away from all forms of wildlife interactive tourism, and this can be measured by the support of the Blood Lions ‘Born to Live Wild’ tourism campaign and pledge.”

“We cannot thank our loyal donors and partners enough for their support in making this translocation possible,” said Venter. “We must extend huge thanks to Empowers Africa, the Emvokweni Community Trust, Blood Lions®, Different.org, WildlifeACT, Jonsson Workwear and Phinda Private Game Reserve.”

You also have a chance to contribute, no matter how big or small, to enable a safe and secure home for this pride of lions. If you would like to donate or potentially Adopt-the-Pride contact us via info@wildtrust.co.za or visit our support page.

Lion cub staring at camera in Somkhanda Community Game Reserve in South Africa
© Pippa Orpen

Klaserie through the Lens

Every year, the Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year competition showcases a plethora of phenomenal photos from around Africa by professional and amateur photographers, alike. The lucky winners are awarded incredible prizes that reflect their talent.

Wildlife photographer Willem Kruger won first place in the ‘travel’ category in 2017 and enjoyed a memorable trip to Klaserie Private Nature Reserve in the Greater Kruger as his prize. The following is an account of his magnificent experience, in his own words.

Klaserie horseshoe
Klaserie’s vast landscape © Willem Kruger

Willem’s photographic adventure

As one of the winners in the annual Africa Geographic Photographer of the Year for 2017, I received as my prize a two-night stay in Klaserie. My wife and I decided to use the prize during our first available free time, which was at the end of September 2017.

Not long into our first game drive, we were alerted over the radio about a group of wild dogs about 20 minutes away. We reached the sighting just in time to find the puppies starting to play. Unfortunately, it was a cloudy afternoon, and the sun was already setting, but nevertheless, we got some interesting photos of the young wild dog cubs playing while waiting for the adults to return from their hunt.

Wild dog pups playing
Wild dog pups playing © Willem Kruger
Nikon D4 camera with Nikkor 600mm lens, 1/3200 sec, F4, Exposure = -0.67, ISO 6400, 21 metres from the wild dog pups

We spent the rest of the late afternoon with them until the adults arrived. The puppies were very playful but ever so watchful for any signs of danger.

Unfortunately, the adults were not successful during their afternoon hunt, so the puppies left with the adults to continue hunting. We tried to follow them, but it was already dark, and they disappeared into the thick vegetation. We decided then that it was the perfect time to enjoy the evening under the rising stars with sundowners, and soon after that found ourselves driving slowly back to camp, listening to the sounds of the nightlife of the veld. Arriving back at camp, we had an excellent dinner thanks to Steven, the chef.

Two wild dog pups
Ever watchful wild dog pups © Willem Kruger
Nikon D4 camera with Nikkor 600mm lens, 1/800 sec, F4, Exposure = -0.67, ISO 2000, 25 meter from the wild dog pups

The leopard hunt

Before we knew it the morning had arrived, and we were back on the game drive vehicle before sunrise, keen for some interesting sightings.

Once again, the game drive delivered great excitement as a male leopard had been sighted about 30 minutes away from our current position. The message was that it was “mobile”, so we had to rush to the sighting or else lose it to the thick vegetation. When we arrived, we were thankful that he hadn’t moved off, and were pleasantly surprised to see he was in the process of stalking a steenbok – a first for us!

We stayed with the leopard and waited patiently, but not to get too close – in order not to interfere with the hunt.

Leopard peeking from behind a termite mound
The leopard peeking from behind a termite mound © Willem Kruger
Nikon D500 & Nikkor 300mmf2.8 lens, 1/3200 sec, f2.8, ISO320, Exposure = -0.33, white balance = sunlight, Aperture mode, 30 metres from the leopard

We had the privilege of staying with this leopard without the pressure of making way for other parties of tourists, thanks to no other game drive vehicles being in the vicinity.

It took the leopard about 30 minutes to get close to the steenbok – about 15 metres – but not close enough. The leopard suddenly made a go for the steenbok (perhaps more out of frustration) but unfortunately was unsuccessful in capturing it. The disappointed leopard stood in the same spot where the steenbok was a few seconds earlier – you could almost see the frustration in his body language.

Left to right: 1) The steenbok in question [Nikon D500 camera with Nikkor 300mm lens = 450mm, 1/6400 sec, F4, Exposure = -0.3, ISO 640, 30 metres from the steenbok]; 2) The leopard with its eye on the steenbok [Nikon D500 camera with Nikkor 300mm lens = 450mm, 1/6400 sec, F4, Exposure = -0.3, ISO 640, 30 metres from the leopard] Both photos © Willem Kruger
The leopard, having given up on any further attempts to hunt the steenbok, crossed over to the ‘forbidden land’ (a restricted area which we were not allowed to drive on), which signalled the ideal time for us to enjoy a cup of tea and coffee with rusks on a nearby termite mount – nice refreshments after a morning’s ‘hard’ work!

Afterwards, we made our way back to camp, while enjoying the birdlife along the way, and were treated to a hearty breakfast on the deck overlooking the waterhole in front of the camp.

Clockwise from left: 1) The leopard looks back on a failed hunt [Nikon D500 camera with Nikkor 300mm lens = 450mm, 1/6400 sec, F2.8, Exposure = -0.3, ISO 320, 20 meter from animal]; 2) Breakfast on the deck [i-phone 6]; 3) Stopping for a tea break while out in the bush [i-phone 6] All photos © Willem Kruger

Africa Geographic Travel

Of elephants and wild dogs

After some downtime at the camp (spent relaxing while downloading photos), we headed out for our final afternoon drive, which started with a fantastic sighting of a herd of elephants.

Elephant calf feeding
Elephant calf feeding © Willem KrugerNikon D4 camera with Nikkor 600mm lens, 1/1000 sec, F4, Exposure = -0.67, ISO 2000, 32 metres from the elephant calf

Afterwards, we were lucky enough to come across the same wild dog pack we saw the previous evening next to a dam. It was interesting to see how cautious they were and did not head straight to the water to drink – they probably had previous encounters with crocodiles.

This time the pups were not so playful as the previous evening. The adults, however, were trying to encourage each other to start with the evening hunt. Shortly afterwards they took off as a group to hunt before darkness caught up with them.

Two wild dogs licking each other
Two wild dogs greeting each other © Willem Kruger

Nikon D4 camera with Nikkor 600mm lens, 1/500 sec, F4, Exposure = -0.67, ISO 2000, 32 metres from the wild dogs

By this time it was overcast and already very late in the afternoon, so I tried to play around with a slow shutter speed to create a more interesting photo (one of the most challenging shots to capture in photography – a lot of luck involved and you cannot ask the dogs to run again and again until you get it right). Sometimes you only have one of two opportunities to capture the moment of wild dogs running by.

Wild dogs running
Wild dogs as they take off to hunt © Willem Kruger

Nikon D4 camera with Nikkor 600mm lens, 1/2500 sec, F4, Exposure = -0.67, ISO 6400, 40 metres from the wild dogs

We tried to follow them as they were hunting, but it was just too challenging to keep up in some of the more bushy areas, and soon after gave up and continued with the drive back to camp. The evening was concluded with a special guest lecture for staff and friends regarding a rhino protection project – shipping rhinos to Australia for conservation purposes. Again we were treated to an excellent dinner.

The last morning was cold, windy and rainy. Not much to see except for a leopard kill up in a tree and a red-crested korhaan saying farewell to us from a termite mound.

A beautiful Korhaan
A beautiful red-crested korhaan © Willem Kruger

Nikon D4 camera with Nikkor 600mm lens, 1/2000 sec, F4, Exposure = 0, ISO 400, 15 metres from the spurfowl

My message to take home…

This was our first trip to this area of the Greater Kruger. For wildlife photographers, it is essential to get away from your home, your familiar environment and even your comfort zone (including the photographic areas you are familiar with). Exploring new territories as we did during this trip is a great way to find inspiration and try to get some alternative images. The Greater Kruger is not always seen as the ideal photography destination, but then that is the purpose of visiting other destinations – a world away from your comfort zone. Remember, when visiting a new photography destination, think outside the box, break out of your rut and use alternative methods to capture those unique, innovative images.

Until next time, keep on shooting!

For accommodation options at the best prices visit our collection of camps and lodges: private travel & conservation club. If you are not yet a member, see how to JOIN below this story.

Leopard on a termite mound
A majestic leopard standing on a termite mound surveying his territory © Willem Kruger

Nikon D4 camera with Nikkor 600mm lens, 1/8000 sec, F4, Exposure = -0.67, ISO 800, 32 metres from the leopard

Africa Geographic Travel

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Capturing the moment in time to be appreciated in the future is the vision for my photography. I am Willem Kruger from Bloemfontein, South Africa. I am a public health specialist.
My interest in photography was motivated mainly by my wife because of her love for nature and wildlife. Because of my passion for nature and originally coming from the rural area of the Free State, it is just logical that the focus of my photography leans heavily towards wildlife photography.
To learn more about me and my travels, you can visit my blog.

Vibrant festivities at Sukuma weddings

Traditional wedding celebration in Sukuma village in Tanzania
The bride and groom balance a bowl of pumpkins on their head during a wedding game © Beate Apfelbeck

North of Chimala, in the Usangu wetlands, at the border to Ruaha National Park in Tanzania, is the land of the Sukuma people. The dwellings of different families are spaced far apart, often fenced in with thorny acacia twigs. As pastoralists their whole pride are their herds of cattle and goats – and their wives, as wealthier men can afford more.

Recently we had been invited to the marriage of a Sukuma friend who got married to his third wife. It turned out that my role was mainly to act as the wedding photographer.

Sukuma woman dancing at a wedding in Tanzania
Wedding guests singing and dancing © Beate Apfelbeck

The ceremony lasted for two days, and we had been invited for the afternoon of the second day. When we approached in our Land Rover, we were confused as the farm of our friend seemed deserted. It turned out that everybody was hiding inside the huts or in the stripes of shadows along the walls of the huts to escape the burning sun and hide from the wind and the dust.

Now in August, after many months of dry season without a single drop of rain, the land has turned into a desert of fine, penetrating dust. Unfortunately, most of the acacia trees had been cut for firewood.

Sukuma village in Tanzania
The village of the Sukuma people © Beate Apfelbeck

After a friendly welcome by the family, we were shown into a little hut for shelter to wait for the start of the festivities. The bride and bridegroom were still getting dressed.

I had a little bit of time to study our surroundings. The hut was a simple square construction made of bricks, but the roof of our hut was made from reeds expertly weaved together with strips of animal skin. Outside in the scorching sun in the central area of the farm, food was simmering in large, covered aluminium pots on fire places arranged with bricks.

A young Sukuma man in Tanzania
A young Sukuma man © Beate Apfelbeck

I got out my camera to take a few shots and that attracted the attention of some young men who wanted to pose for their picture. It turned out that everybody wanted a picture!

Sukuma man poses for the camera in Tanzania
A Sukuma man poses for the camera © Beate Apfelbeck

The steady beating of a drum announced the start of the festivities. The guests had gathered in a half circle opposite the main hut from which the bride and bridegroom and close family members were emerging. The bridal couple was adorned with several strings of colourful plastic beads around their necks, wrists and ankles.

Sukuma woman with two children in her village in Tanzania
The Sukuma bride, adorned with colourful beads © Beate Apfelbeck

The colourful dresses of the men and women were in stark contrast to the monotonous surroundings of grey dust. The rhythm of the following series of games and challenges that the couple had to master was set by the beat of the drum and the hypnotic song of the wedding guests.

Sukuma village musician in Tanzania
Music plays a great part at wedding festivities © Beate Apfelbeck

They were dancing and running and singing, their stomping feet raising dust that was taken up by gusts of wind and whirled away. The bride pair and family were then seated around a table and speeches and more song in their Sukuma language followed, which included receiving money presents in two pots – one for the bride and one for the bridegroom. The whole procedure was accompanied by lots of laughter!

Traditional wedding celebration in Sukuma village in Tanzania
Guests collect sticks as part of the games © Beate Apfelbeck

After the first part of the ceremony the food was served. We were brought back to our hut where a table had been set with plates of rice and bowls of meat. Water was brought to wash our hands and everybody was eating with their hands while at the same time chasing away the hordes of flies that seemed equally hungry as us.

Traditional wedding celebration in Sukuma village in Tanzania
Sticks and dust fly into the air as the wedding games continue © Beate Apfelbeck

After the meal, the drummer gathered the family and guests back into a circle. This time everybody had brought a stick and accompanied by the beating of the drum and song, they ran to the middle of the circle and brandished their sticks as if fighting. The air was thick with dust! I had not been prepared for this and hurriedly fled from the scene to avoid getting in the way.

The last game involved less dust as the couple had to balance a bowl of pumpkins on their head, while everybody else was trying to steal a pumpkin from the bowl.

Traditional wedding celebration in Sukuma village in Tanzania
Dancing, running and singing are all part of the two-day wedding festivities © Beate Apfelbeck

Finally my great moment as official wedding photographer arrived and everybody gathered for pictures. Exhausted and covered with dust, but exhilarated and happy, we left the wedding in the already setting sun.

Sukuma village members pose for a family photo in Tanzania
Group portrait of the wedding party © Beate Apfelbeck

Gory splendour: Lion cub and buffalo carcass

Lion cub stares at camera through buffalo carcass in Timbavati, Greater Kruger National Park, South Africa
© Bobby-Jo Vial

We’re halfway through our Photographer of the Year 2018 and entries are filling up our inbox at an incredible pace. Last week, we featured a photo of a lion cub looking at the camera from inside a buffalo carcass, taken by Bobby-Jo Vial. This was quite the shot and we were interested to find out more about the scene. So here Bobby-Jo shares with us this amazing wildlife encounter that she managed to capture on camera.

Lion cub with pride in Timbavati, Greater Kruger National Park, South Africa
© Bobby-Jo Vial

Written, and photographs, by Bobby-Jo Vial 

On the 7th February 2018, I photographed the Avoca lion pride eating a fresh buffalo kill. I have been photographing this pride of Timbavati lions in the Greater Kruger for over four years now but this time was different…

The pride have been struggling lately and two lionesses and their cubs were looking extremely thin and weak. We were very concerned about their well-being but as always, nature surprises us.

The next morning we found them with the buffalo carcass. It was an incredible relief to see the mothers and their cubs gorging themselves on the buffalo. The cubs were very aggressive and growling at the adults. I noticed that one cub, in particular, was very possessive of the buffalo and he started to climb inside the carcass from the stomach area.

Lions eating a buffalo carcass in Timbavati, Greater Kruger National Park, South Africa
© Bobby-Jo Vial

I then noticed that the adult lions had eaten the backside of the buffalo first and I knew that this could be a unique photo opportunity.

We positioned our vehicle so that I could capture the cub’s face through the carcass. At first all I could see was a pair of little yellow eyes staring back at me and I pressed the shutter. This photo is a celebration of nature in all her gory. The little cubs will get through another day in the Lowveld.

Lion cub eating buffalo from the inside out in Timbavati, Greater Kruger National Park, South Africa
© Bobby-Jo Vial

17 Elephant facts you need to know

Elephant drinking water at waterhole in South Africa
© Derek Keats / Flickr

The African elephant (Loxodonta africana) is the largest land mammal in the world and one of nature’s great ecosystem engineers, being a major contributor to maintaining the balance between wooded and grass ecosystems. Their beneficial impact on biodiversity in large unfenced ecosystems and their potentially negative impact on same in fenced environments, make them a key species in Africa.

Here are 17 facts about African elephants that you need to know:

1. There are about 50,000 muscles in an elephant’s trunk, made up of six muscle groups, and no bones. This compares to 639 muscles in the entire human body! The closest thing we have to an elephant’s trunk is our tongue. Elephants use their trunks to breath, drink, eat, smell, snorkel, wrestle, communicate, touch, feel, hold, grab and pull. We can’t think of any other appendage that is so versatile.

2. Elephants cannot jump, gallop or canter. They can only walk at various speeds – from a slow walk to a moderate ‘amble’ and fast shuffling ‘run’ where their stride remains the same but the leg speed increases. Their top speed is about 24 km/hr. For more information, read our article Can elephants run, or do they just walk faster?

3. Elephants are either left or right ‘handed’. They are born not knowing how to use their trunks and learn as they grow. Like humans, they show a preference between grasping objects to the left or right. You can tell which side elephants prefer – tusks are shorter on the preferred side (because they get worn down more on that side).

Baby elephant with mother at waterhole in Punda Maria, Kruger National Park, South Africa
© Derek Keats / Flickr

4. The elephant’s sense of smell is estimated to be four times that of a bloodhound or 160 times that of a human. They can smell water from many kilometres away.

5. Many tree species rely on elephants to spread their seeds. But that is not all. Many seeds are more likely to germinate having passed through an elephant’s gut. Elephants transport these seeds for many kilometres as they process their food, before depositing them in their dung balls – a vital fertiliser and moisture package for those seeds, and a kick-starter to life.

6. During the dry season, elephants provide access to water for other species. They dig holes in dry riverbeds to get to deep water – opening the water up for other species not able to dig. They also enlarge, and compact mud wallows to form large pans that fill up with water – again providing water for other species.

Elephant herd at waterhole in Punda Maria, Kruger National Park, South Africa
© Derek Keats / Flickr

7. Elephants are the heaviest land mammals, at 4 to 7 tons, and the second tallest land mammal (behind the giraffe) at 3,1 to 3,4 metres at the shoulder. The largest elephant on record weighed 10,9 tons and was 3,9 metres at the shoulder.

8. Elephant herds are led by older cows (matriarchs), with young bulls forming their own smaller herds after leaving the breeding herd. Old bulls often roam on their own, or with a few companions (often referred to as askaris), meeting up with breeding herds as cows come into season.

9. Elephants live for 50 to 70 years. Bulls only start contributing to the gene pools at 35 to 40 years old and cows start breeding at 12 to 14 years old. Cows undergo the longest gestation period of all mammals – they are pregnant for 22 months.

10. Bull elephants periodically go into musth, when testosterone levels are up to 60 times higher than normal. Symptoms include unpredictable and aggressive behaviour, urine dripping from the penis, discharge from the temporal glands behind the eyes and a strong odour.

11. Elephants grieve their dead and carry out ritual greetings at old carcasses – covering bodies of deceased elephants in plants and frequently visiting old carcasses to linger, gently touch and pick up bones. They also exhibit signs of post-traumatic stress disorder and depression.

Elephant bull drinking water at Punda Maria, Kruger National Park, South Africa
© Derek Keats / Flickr

12. Bull elephants have internal testes, much like the rock hyrax – a rodent-like mammal and close relative to the elephant.

13. Elephants can detect seismic signals via their feet, through the leg and shoulder bones and into the middle ear. They communicate with each other over distances up to 10 km via low-frequency rumbles, again picked up via the feet.

14. Elephants starve to death once their teeth wear out. They produce six sets of teeth in their lives, with each set pushing forward from the back of the jaw to replace worn teeth at the front. After six such sets, elephants run out of teeth, cannot chew food, lose condition and either fall prey to disease or predators or starve to death. Contrasts this with humans, where one set of adult teeth is produced from the top and bottom of the jaw, to replace the original set of baby teeth.

Close up of an elephant's foot in Punda Maria, Kruger National Park, South Africa
© Derek Keats / Flickr

15. An adult elephant requires up to 300kg of food and 160 litres of water per day.

16. African elephants are listed as CITES I (threatened with extinction) in all African countries except for Botswana, Namibia, South Africa and Zimbabwe, where they are listed as CITES II (not necessarily threatened with extinction, but in which trade must be controlled to avoid utilisation incompatible with their survival).

17. On average, 96 elephants are poached every day for their ivory – out of an estimated total population of 350,000 savanna elephants. The population of savanna elephants declined by 8% per annum during the years 2007 to 2014. It is estimated that there are only 25 to 30 ‘tuskers’ left (bulls with tusk weight of more than 45 kg on each side), with poachers and trophy hunters threatening the remaining individual elephants. Read more about tuskers in our online magazine feature Africa’s big tuskers.

16 days in Uganda

It was in the early 2000s when my father started seriously talking about gorilla trekking as one of his bucket-list adventures. But it would take another 16 years of reading, research, and reluctance before it would finally become a reality. Finally, on the 1st of July 2017, my father, along with my two brothers, my sister-in-law, and me, set off from Cape Town to Uganda for an incredible 16-day cross-Uganda trip arranged by Africa Geographic.

Uganda
A roadside market selling produce at Masaka en route to Entebbe © Gerhard Pretorius

After touching down at Entebbe International Airport and clearing customs, we were met by Bosco, our driver and tour leader, and Gerald, our birding guide.
In total, our party was comprised of seven relatively fit and avid lovers of the bush, eager for a Uganda adventure of a lifetime, and the opportunity to spot some of the rarest wildlife on the planet.

Uganda
The Pretorius family with their driver/tour leader, and birding guide © Gerhard Pretorius

UGANDAN CULTURE

Uganda is landlocked, with more than 15% of the country covered by lakes. This leaves relatively little space for its 40 million people. As much as 90% of the agriculture is subsistence farming, and driving through the country, you’ll see everyone from children to adults working the land, growing bananas, coffee, tobacco, tea, groundnuts, cassava, more bananas and other staple starches. You get the distinct sense that they’re not doing it to make a living – they’re doing it to survive.

Uganda
A young man transports a load of thatch on a bicycle © Gerhard Pretorius

Every town in Uganda has a bustling pavement economy, which means you’re never far from a local market, street-side butchery, pork joint, liquor shops or bodabodas. Bodabodas is the nickname for the millions of cheap Indian motorcycles used by East Africans to cross borders, transport produce, and commute.

Everywhere you go in Uganda, you’ll see them, but it’s predominantly men who drive them, as in some parts of the country, women are discouraged from driving them or, as our guide put it, not allowed to.

And amidst this organised chaos, people are warm, friendly and seem content. You’re made to feel welcome and safe to wander around freely.

Clockwise from left: 1) An Indian motorcycle, known locally as a bodaboda, ready to transport eggs in Buhoma; 2) An ankole cattle farmer with a beaming, welcoming smile at Lake Albert; 3) A butcher selling meat on the side of the road at Lake Mburo. All photos © Gerhard Pretorius

Searching for the prehistoric shoebill

From day one, we set off to see as many as possible of the 1,100 bird species that Uganda has to offer, and eventually, we succeeded in ticking off just over 400. But for the first and foremost on our list, we went wading through the waters of the Mabamba Swamp – roughly two hours west of Entebbe – one of the world’s last remaining habitats for shoebills.

The swamps are navigated in old wooden boats fitted with outboard motors and oars (for when the boat inevitably gets stuck in the shallow, overgrown canals). Each boat has a captain and spotter who are in contact with the other boats via cell phones, trying to locate the elusive species.
It took a little over two hours, but finally we got word that a shoebill had been spotted about a 30-minute ride away. The odds were slim, but we took the chance, and it paid off.

Whatever preconceptions you may have of seeing a shoebill up close and in the wild, forget them. If you’re fortunate enough to find one (many people travel from across the globe without any luck), you’re hit by an overwhelming sense that this is a distinctly prehistoric creature. An animal that has laid claim to the slowly disappearing environment it lives and breeds in, long before we humans imposed. It’s this dichotomy of awe and compassion that makes the moment you see a shoebill one you’ll never forget.

Uganda
A beautiful portrait of a shoebill in the Mabamba swamps © Gerhard Pretorius

After ticking off the shoebills, we headed north to the Masindi District. It’s a long drive from Entebbe, and even on a Sunday, the Kampala traffic can be a bumper-to-bumper nightmare. But once you break through the city and hit the road, you get to take in the ever-changing landscape and spend time with your guides, learning more about the people of Uganda.

The mighty Murchison Falls

The iconic Murchison Falls – the world’s most powerful waterfall © Gerhard Pretorius

Masindi district is home to two of Uganda’s biggest attractions: Murchison Falls and Murchison Falls National Park. Undoubtedly, this is the main reason most visit the district, but it’s also a wonderful place to see how the locals earn a living.

The area in and around the Murchison Falls National Park has plenty of accommodation, and staying on the banks of the River Nile is the way to go. A word of warning, though – hippos often roam through the camps when they come out to feed at night.

Other wildlife to spot in the park includes patas monkeys, Ugandan kob, hartebeest, buffalo, elephant, the very rare Rothschild’s giraffe, and lion. You can also drive along the banks of the Nile, which offers more birding opportunities.

Murchison Falls is not to be missed. It’s the world’s most powerful waterfall, where the White Nile is funnelled through a 7-metre wide gorge, at a rate of 300,000 litres per second, and plummets 45 metres. It’s worth visiting the falls from the top (by road) and booking a cruise to approach it from below as well to get a sense of its awesome power.

The Murchison Falls National Park is reached by ferry across the Nile, and it’s best to do so early in the morning to avoid queuing.

Clockwise from top left: 1) A boat cruise on the River Nile provides excellent opportunities for bird and wildlife viewing; 2) The rustic tented accommodation at the Murchison Falls National Park; 3) A sensational portrait of a Ugandan kob – a species of antelope that is endemic to sub-Saharan Africa; 4) At a rate 300,000 litres per second, there is no doubting Murchison Falls is the world’s most powerful waterfall. All photos © Gerhard Pretorius

Kibale’s chimpanzees

Kibale National Park is one of the best places to visit for chimpanzee trekking, and with approximately 1,450 chimps in the forest, about 120 are habituated. As ready as we were, we soon discovered that coming face to face with a chimpanzee or mountain gorilla isn’t something you can ever really be prepared for.

It’s a lot like unexpectedly running into an old friend you haven’t seen in years, or being startled by your reflection. For a moment, you freeze as you try to make sense of it all. Simply put, it’s impossible not to be moved.

We spent a full day with two different chimp groups. We saw elders with grey beards, dominant alpha males, and females with newborn babies. But we saw more than just wild animals. We saw intelligent beings that use language, tools, and make a ‘home’ to sleep in come dusk. We saw a society. We saw a family.

Photographing them made it even more evident. There’s everything you’d find in a human face: emotion, thought, intelligence, and something mysterious. It was more like taking photos of people than of wildlife.

From left to right: 1) A portrait of a Kibale chimpanzee taking some time out; 2) It’s impossible to deny the similarities between chimpanzees and humans. The emotion behind their eyes is astounding. All photos © Gerhard Pretorius
Africa Geographic Travel

Trekking for Bwindi’s gorillas

Whether you set off on your gorilla trekking from Ruhija or Buhoma, there’s no way of knowing how strenuous your hike will be.

It’s down to luck. You could either be drenched in a torrential downpour and hike for several hours up and down muddy slopes. Or, as in our case, you could stay dry and have a short hike one day, and a long hike the next. One thing’s for sure, the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park truly lives up to its name.

It’s one thing expecting to see a gorilla at eye level, but seeing a 220kg silverback perched 20 metres up a tree, breaking branches the width of your arm as if they’re twigs; or a month-old gorilla playing aimlessly, but under the watchful eye of its mother – there are no words. There’s just pure awe.

When photographing mountain gorillas, one of the hardest things is deciding which individual to follow and focus on. You simply don’t have enough time to capture all of them. In the end, whenever they were too far or too close, or moving too quickly for a decent shot, the best thing to do was just to enjoy the moment. To simply be with them and connect.

From left to right: 1) A young gorilla in the arms of its mother; 2) The Pretorius family thoroughly enjoying their trek – truly an experience of a lifetime. All photos © Gerhard Pretorius

Lake Mburo and birding

Lake Mburo National Park seems to be suffering from low game numbers due to poaching and the encroachment of farmers into wildlife habitat. When we visited, our guides told us that only one lone male lion remains in the area.

The park itself is home to leopards, zebras, giraffes, buffalos, and many other antelope species. For birding, visiting Lake Mburo itself is a definite must. Cruises during the early morning and late afternoon magic hours get booked up quickly, so plan in advance.

Some highlights include the elusive African finfoot and ample opportunities to get up close to the most common African waterbirds and wildlife, including fish eagles, pied and malachite kingfishers, monitor lizards, hippos, crocodiles, and more.

Uganda blew us away, and we hope to return one day!

Clockwise from left: 1) A gorgeous buffalo – one of Africa’s famous Big 5; 2) A majestic zebra strolling through the park; 3) The bright colours of the malachite kingfisher are entrancing. All photos © Gerhard Pretorius

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Born in Johannesburg, raised in Robertson, now living in Cape Town, Gerhard Pretorius writes, films, and photographs many different types of topics. He especially loves to travel and capture moments that will last a lifetime.

Mass poisoning incident leaves lions, vultures dead near Ruaha

Person inspecting dead lion killed from poison in WMA, Ruaha, Ruaha Carnivore Project
© Ruaha Carnivore Project

The following is a statement released by Ruaha Carnivore Project on their Facebook page:

“We are deeply saddened to report a mass poisoning incident in the Wildlife Management Area (WMA) just outside Ruaha National Park, Tanzania. We received a ‘mortality alert’ from one of our collared lions, and the team responded rapidly. When they arrived at the site, they found a devastating scene – six lions (the collared adult female, three sub-adult females and two sub-adult males) had been killed, apparently from poison as they were all found close to a scavenged cattle carcass.

This event had additional tragic consequences, with dozens of critically endangered vultures found dead or badly affected. RCP worked closely with colleagues from WCS Ruaha-Katavi, Tanzania, the Parks authorities and other local agencies, and they eventually found 74 dead vultures as well as the six lions. Thanks to the skills of the WCS team, four other sick vultures were able to be taken to the Park for treatment. Sadly, one died shortly after arrival but the others are currently doing well.

The authorities are investigating this incident, but it appears as if someone poisoned a carcass after lions attacked cattle. Alarmingly, poisoning is a common response to conflict, and this highlights how vital it is to do all we can to prevent carnivore attacks on stock, and reduce chances of retaliatory killings. Cattle are extremely important to local people, and carnivores can cause major economic and cultural hardship when they attack stock – and, when people don’t benefit from lions, it is unsurprising that they resort to killing them. Thanks to support from many partners, we have made great progress in reducing such attacks, for example by predator-proofing enclosures and engaging communities, but there is much more to be done across the landscape, and protecting grazing livestock is particularly challenging. It is also vital to secure the Wildlife Management Areas and – probably most important of all – make sure that local people receive real benefits from wildlife, so they eventually see them as more of an asset alive than dead.

Heap of dead vultures killed via poisoning in WMA, Ruaha, Ruaha Carnivore Project
© Ruaha Carnivore Project

This kind of event is truly devastating, but it does highlight the value of our collaring programme – without alerts from the collars, we are very unlikely to find out about such incidents, especially when they occur in remote areas. It also highlights the importance of close collaboration on the ground with partners such as Wildlife Conservation SocietyRuaha National ParkTanzania National Parks and others, as the rapid and coordinated response meant that at least some animals could be found alive and treated.

Although this incident occurred in the WMA and not on the village land where we do most of our work, it is an extremely distressing reminder of the impact that conflict can have on wildlife. It reinforces how crucial it is to continue and expand our conflict mitigation work across the landscape. Although it is hard to measure, we are certain that by protecting livestock, providing local benefits and engaging communities, we have prevented many similar incidents occurring on village land over the past few years. The challenge now is to redouble those efforts, including collaring more lions, to learn the true scale of conflict-related mortality around Ruaha, and work as hard as possible to reduce it. This has affected the whole team, who work tirelessly day and night to prevent carnivore killings, but we thank everyone who supports us, as together we know we can reduce these terrible impacts in the future.”

Can elephants run, or do they just walk faster?

Elephants running to a waterhole
© Brian Ralphs/Flickr

A fascinating study has revealed that although elephants can move at a considerable pace, there is a question as to whether they can run.

The study was published in Nature and reported on in the Stanford News Service way back in 2003 by Dawn Levy. An oldie but a goodie!

The study suggests that, even at fast speeds (up to 15 mph/24 km/h), it might seem to the casual observer that elephants don’t run. Their footfall pattern remains the same as that in walking, and never do all four feet leave the ground at the same time – a hallmark of running. But an elephant’s centre of mass appears to bounce at high speeds, which meets the biomechanical definition of running.

“We do find evidence that elephants run in a sense,” said first author John Hutchinson, a Stanford postdoctoral research fellow in the Department of Mechanical Engineering. “It’s an intermediate sort of gait, but it looks like what we biomechanically would call running. They don’t leave the ground, which is the classical definition, but they do seem to bounce, which is the biomechanical definition.”

For their experiments, Hutchinson and co-researcher Dan Famini palpated the limbs of captive Asian elephants to find their joints and then marked the joints with large dots of water-soluble, non-toxic paint. They videotaped 188 trials of 42 Asian elephants walking and running through a 100-foot course and measured their speed with photosensors and video analysis.

Young elephant crossing dirt road at high speed
So, what turns a walk into a run?

It isn’t just speed, although that plays a part.

Kinematically, one thing that distinguishes walking from running is the footfall pattern. Typical quadrupeds use a walk at slow speeds, a trot at medium speeds and a gallop at fast speeds – and each gait has a different footfall sequence/pattern. But elephants are weird because no matter how fast they go, their footfall pattern doesn’t change. They use a walking footfall pattern even at top speed. That pattern has the left hind foot moving first, followed by a brief pause, after which the left front foot moves. Then there’s a long pause, after which the same thing happens on the right side.

An all-aerial phase, where no feet are touching the ground, also kinematically differentiates running from walking. But elephants never have all their feet off the ground. Other species also do not leave the ground when running, including many ground birds.

A deeper biomechanical mechanism may explain running better than the aerial phase frequently observed. Animals shift from a walk to a run because at faster speeds, walking becomes less energetically efficient, or more mechanically stressful, than running. But again, elephants seem to avoid that shift in gears.

Hutchinson said “walking is a stiff, pendulum-like gait; the limb stays pretty straight and swings back and forth. Running is a bouncing gait in which the limb actually compresses and bounces back with a spring.”

The researchers’ kinematic measurements suggest that fast-moving elephants may switch from a pendulum-like gait to a bouncing gait – a bit like a pogo stick, but without leaving the ground. If they do, they fit the biomechanical definition for running. But to measure this, the elephants would need to move across a device that measures their impact on the ground. And that needs to be a very sturdy device.

So, do elephants actually run? We think so, but the jury is still out…

The full coverage of the report: Stanford News Service, Dawn Levy: “Speedy elephants use a biomechanical trick to ‘run’ like Groucho”

Elephant herd making their way through arid environment

Nyiragongo: A hike to the centre of the Earth

Rumour has it that Mount Nyiragongo, home to the largest lava lake in the world, is said to attract only a small number of ballsy travellers who are looking for an extraordinary, out of this world adventure. It’s not an all-inclusive, everyday charter destination, so I suppose it does help to be a little nuts to attempt a hike to the summit.

Which is precisely why I was there, in the Virunga National Park in the Democratic Republic of Congo, getting ready to set out to explore the fascinating natural wonder of the world. I was embarking on a (relatively) safe and almost spiritual adventure to what some refer to as the ‘gates of hell’, and was sure I would be creating memories that would stay with me for a lifetime.

Nyiragongo
The largest lava lake in the world awaits © Björn Persson

Gearing up for an adventure of a lifetime

The experience of a lifetime was about to begin, but the welcome sign didn’t feel all that inviting. I checked my backpack for the 87th time and took a moment to reflect:  I was about to climb one of the world’s most beautiful and active volcanoes. Chills went down my spine. Had I completely lost my mind?

Nyiragongo
A sign to help prepare those for the journey ahead © Björn Persson

Once I had met up with the group I was hiking with I started to relax. Everyone seemed pretty cool. I had a chat with a few Russians not looking the least concerned – like we were about to go for a Sunday stroll in the park – and I soon realised that thankfully I wasn’t the oldest guy in this kamikaze crew. But then I had a closer look at their gear: very expensive-looking wind jackets, barometer watches and all sorts of high-tech survival gear. I looked down at my old crumbling boots. Was I ready for this?

I looked up at the volcano, but the clouds hid it. Maybe that was a good thing. Seeing its glowing, Mordor-like peak before the hike might give me second thoughts. I handed my permit to a member of staff in the office and found myself chatting with three other guys from the group, some seasoned Americans working with humanitarian aid in other parts of Africa. In other words, not your regular charter tourists.

Nyiragongo
The group listening to essential safety instructions from the guide © Björn Persson

There were about 12 of us in the group. We were coming from all parts of the world, and we were all driven here by that same lust for adventure. Our guide started to explain the rules: “Stay together. Drink a lot of water. Walk slowly. All fine”. Until now, everything sounded just like the information I had got on other, regular hikes. But what about the military guy with the Kalashnikov next to him? What was he doing here? I decided not to over-analyse it. I had already left my brain at the hotel.
From this point, there was no turning back.

And off we go!

The first segment was a warm-up stage: just a 45-minute trek over reasonably flat ground in the jungle. But the hike started at 2,000 metres, which my body found hard to acclimatise to. We made our way through dense rainforest resembling scenes from Jurassic Park. This seemed like the perfect time to chat to the people in the group, to find out where we were all from and what the hell had brought us to the Democratic Republic of Congo to climb an active volcano. Everyone looked as fresh as spring roses and smiled for the camera – but that was all about change.

The upward hike through the thick, muddy terrain begins © Björn Persson

After only about an hour, it was time for the first break. It didn’t feel necessary. My worries had been replaced with a false sense of bravery. I was eager to push on. I hadn’t come halfway around the world for a picnic, and I was ready for adventure! Not tea and cookies.

But when I sat down, I collected my foolish thoughts. “Don’t get cocky,” I told myself. That’s always a beginner’s mistake when attempting to climb a mountain. I started chatting with a couple from the Netherlands. Looking at their thin Converse sneakers and blue jeans, I knew that if worse came to worst, I probably wouldn’t be the first to go down.

Clockwise from left: 1) The serene scenery acts as a backdrop to the strenuous hike; 2) The group takes a much-needed break and uses the time to get to know each other; 3) The steep incline and thick, muddy terrain aren’t doing us any favours. All photos © Björn Persson

We packed down our lunch packs and continued. We left the rainforest behind, and suddenly the lush landscape was replaced by rocks and boulders. Back in 2002, Nyiragongo had erupted from its flank, sending a two-metre high wave of lava down into the city of Goma. We were now walking on that same ground where it had all begun.

After another two hours, it was time for our second lunch break. We were halfway there. We got some more bananas, peanuts and baked cookies, and enjoyed the breathtaking views. Everyone was in a good mood, chatting and taking pictures. But then I turned around. Dark clouds came rolling in over the volcano. The rain was on its way, and I knew there was not going to be a warm, 5-star hotel waiting for us at the top.

Reenergised with fresh coffee, we pushed on. But the second segment was a real slog – it was the longest part of the hike, far steeper than the stages we’d encountered before.

We were gaining altitude rapidly now, taking huge steps continually upwards with little time for rest. Some of the guys who had initially hiked up the trail like Olympian gold medallists now looked like a bunch of panting seniors in need of their walkers. I kept looking up at the big, black clouds building up. You didn’t need to be a meteorologist to understand we were heading towards trouble.

I was starting to push myself hard now, and even though I was exhausted, the views just got better and better, and I made several stops to enjoy the stunning valley below. I almost had to pinch my arm – I was getting closer and closer to one of the world’s most active volcanoes, and it wasn’t a dream. The overwhelming sense of adventure overtook the pain in my legs. But just as I got my positive energy back, I felt a raindrop hit my head.

Nyiragongo
The rain began to pelt down – as if this hike wasn’t physically draining already! © Björn Persson

Rain. Just what we needed after four hours of fighting the elements. In a few minutes, the sky opened up. My feet were swimming in my soaking wet boots, and each step made a loud, slurping sound. I looked around but could hardly see the guys in front of me. The rain even got through my ‘waterproof’ poncho. Nobody said a single word as we continued with the remaining 60-minute hike to the summit. I knew I could make it – not even the volcano having a full eruption was going to stop me now.

As the skies cleared up, our good spirits returned, but now we could feel the altitude. Breathless at 3,350 metres high, an unbelievably steep climb was stretching in front of us to the top. There wasn’t much of a path to follow any longer, just a side of a volcano to scale, choosing whichever route that made the most sense; none of them any easier than the other. Up we climbed, some of us on our hands and knees, all of us taking it slow and steady, the smell of sulphur now beginning to penetrate our nostrils.

Just before reaching the top, we stopped at a small cabin to change clothes and get ready for the final walk to the summit. Our aching bodies were steaming in the cool air, and we shared the last of the baked cookies. I couldn’t forgive myself for not having followed the packing advice: Don’t forget to bring a second pair of dry shoes. Luckily, I found two plastic bags and wrapped them around my feet. Desperate times call for drastic measures.

An ICCN (Institut Congolais pour la Conservation de la Nature) ranger accompanied the group to show us the route and ensure our safety © Björn Persson

The last part was all about determination and focus. I didn’t care about having the world’s best view behind me. And I completely ignored the fact that I was almost at the top of a volcano that only a decade ago had destroyed a whole village and put over 400,000 people on the run. The only thing I was thinking about was how to put the next foot in front of the other.

But with only about thirty metres left to the rim, my head was getting even more messed up – I could hear the ocean. Seconds later, I realised it wasn’t waves. It was the sound of the fierce, rolling lava.

Africa Geographic Travel

Reaching the summit

There are some things you never forget. Like your wedding day (for better or worse) or when your team won that big championship. For me, seeing Nyiragongo’s crater lake was one of those moments. It was like watching an IMAX movie. I’d spent so much time planning for the adventure that now that I was finally here, it didn’t feel real. I was so in awe that I had to keep blinking to prove to myself this wasn’t a dream. I sat down on a nearby rock, inhaling the fumes, watching the sunset, and thinking to myself that this would be something I’d still remember on my 90th birthday.

Nyiragongo
What a sight! All the hard work has paid off. This is truly a sight that will be etched in my memory forever © Björn Persson

“General Nyiragongo,” my guide said and smiled. “Because when he comes, everyone runs.”

But when looking down at the lava lake, I didn’t feel any fear. Just pure, bubbling joy. I started to think about what my friends were doing. Most of them were probably at work right now or stuck in traffic. Here I was, in the middle of the planet staring down into the ‘gates of hell’. It was like time had stood still here. Like we had been transported to this wonderfully weird place in time machines, back to a prehistoric era when dinosaurs roamed the planet and the continents were still taking shape. I glanced around a few times to make sure there wasn’t a T-Rex sneaking up behind my back.

Remember when you were a little kid? When playing in the sandbox was a great adventure, and everything you saw or did was a great, first-time wonder? That’s how we all felt up there. There is no better feeling than a new, overwhelming experience. As we get older, hardly anything ever surprises us. Been there, done that. But when seeing Nyiragongo with your own eyes, you turn into a little kid in Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory. The only difference is the chocolate is 900° Celsius hot lava, and the factory is a 3,470 metre-high volcano.

Watch the video below for a taste of what you can expect…  

Living on the edge

As we sat and drank hot cups of coffee together, we discussed whether you’d feel any pain if you were to fall into the sea of lava or whether you’d be obliterated in an instant.

We spoke about how this was one of the coolest things we’d ever seen and shared stories of other amazing places we’d travelled to around the world. Everyone agreed that few experiences matched up to this one.

We sat there enjoying the view as it changed every minute, and as the evening turned to night, we found the lava got so bright you were tempted to wear your shades. Funnily enough, the volcano suddenly reminded me of one giant barbecue fire – the only things we were missing were some sticks and hot dogs. As the winds calmed down, you could feel the comforting heat from the fiery turmoil. I looked around, and everyone looked like they were meditating. I think everyone would have agreed that this was one of the best coffee breaks in their lives.

Clockwise from top left: 1) A few of the group members taking in the wonders of the volcano – not too much space is there! 2) Relaxation time. A hot cup of coffee and some delicious food; 3) Living on the edge – what an experience! All photos © Björn Persson
Africa Geographic Travel

Getting a closer look, the lava almost seemed to cannibalise itself as pockets of fire engulfed new areas. It looked like what one could imagine the entrance to hell to be like or a graphic, abstract painting with its distinct orange patterns. After a warm dinner of rice and beef stew, we sat at the crater’s edge and passed around bottles of the local beer.

Part of me considered sitting up on the rim for the night, shivering while watching the lava crash like ocean waves against the crater’s walls. Part of me knew I’d regret not making the most of my time in such a special place, but I also knew that I had a long climb back down the following morning, and I needed to get some rest.

Nyiragongo
An iconic photo of the accommodation perched on the rim of the crater © Björn Persson

A thick mist gave the next morning an illusion of calm. The descent was much tougher than I had imagined. The four-hour hike was punctuated by yelps and the sound of sliding rocks. The first section was the toughest of the day. It was the steepest part of the hike and consisted of loose lava rocks that fell away as soon as you attempted to transfer any weight to them.

Taking deep breaths, I hovered a tentative foot down, windmilling my arms in wide circles as I tested every rock with my toes. There was little way of knowing which ones would tumble away until it was too late and you were tumbling down with them.

When finally reaching back to the base camp, it all felt like one big dream. And it sure was. One big dream that finally had come true.

Lava bubbles and smoke bellows in this perpetual inferno. It is of low viscosity and therefore flows quickly © Björn Persson

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Björn Persson is a photographer and travel writer who’s been to over 20 African countries. His favourite destination is Kenya, but the Nyiragongo hike was one of his most memorable adventures. Besides being an avid traveller, Björn also has a degree in wildlife conservation and uses his photos as a weapon against poaching. Later this year, he will release his new wildlife photography book, The Real Owners of the Planet. A big part of the profit will go to wildlife conservation.

 

 

7 Consequences of replacing wildlife with livestock

Cattle and herder in a drought-stricken region in Africa

Africa has the largest remaining area of untransformed (uncultivated) land on Earth, but research suggests that the combined impact of increasing human populations and the decimation of native species over the last few centuries by colonial hunters, means that livestock populations now vastly outnumber wildlife.

Do livestock species restore ecological processes, by serving as comparable replacements for native herbivores?

A fascinating study has been published about the impact on ecological processes and ecosystems of the ongoing extinction of native African herbivore species and the increase in livestock populations. This report compares current data with estimates of herbivore biomass since the Pleistocene period (11,700 years ago).

Here are 7 interesting findings:

1. Herbivore biomass change

Total herbivore biomass has decreased across Africa, mainly due to the removal of elephants by hunters. Only arid regions have experienced increases, largely due to the use of artificial water points and forage for livestock.

Relatively speaking, livestock biomass now surpasses native herbivore species biomass.

2. Herbivore functional diversity

African rangelands are now dominated by three species – cattle, goats and sheep – which account for 90% of current herbivore biomass. In other words, Africa has undergone a vast contraction in herbivore diversity.  The removal of elephants has had a particularly pronounced impact, due to their beneficial impact on density and diversity of forest saplings and on seed dispersal – but the removal of other specialist browsers and frugivores has also been felt. The result has been an increase in bush encroachment and a reduction in seed dispersal.

3. Fires versus grazers

Fire is a significant alternative consumer of vegetation to herbivores and the balance between the two shapes ecosystems. Conceptually, grazers can suppress fires when they consume so much grassy material in the wet season that there is insufficient fuel to carry fires in the dry season. Fewer grazers therefore means more fire, and vice versa – all of which is subject to rainfall levels.

4. Woody cover

Herbivores, directly and indirectly, affect woody cover. The report predicts that the increasing dominance of livestock over native herbivore species will enhance woody cover in African savannas, in addition to other factors such as carbon dioxide levels.

The substantial contraction of elephant distribution ranges and populations has and will result in more woody cover as fewer trees are toppled. Moreover, the increase in grazer densities (livestock) has reduced fire across much of the continent, thereby also increasing woody cover. However, mitigating this to a degree is the increase in small-stock browser farming and subsequent increase in consumption of woody cover.

5. Greenhouse gas emissions

Carbon is stored above and below ground. The increase of woody cover increases the above-ground carbon stocks and therefore influences the carbon cycle – but the exact extent is not known. More easily measured is the methane emissions of herbivores. Methane has 28 times the warming potential of carbon dioxide. Ruminants (mammals that first partly digest food in one stomach, then regurgitate it and chew it further before re-ingesting it) such as cattle, sheep, antelope and giraffes produce considerably more methane than non-ruminants such as elephants, hippos and zebras. In addition, larger animals produce more methane per body mass. The dominance of livestock in Africa has resulted in a significant increase in methane emissions – up to 15% of the global emission levels.

6. Movement of nutrients

Animals move nutrients from nutrient hotspots across ecosystems, thereby increasing overall fertility. The dominance of livestock has resulted in widespread loss of nutrient dispersal – with current levels estimated at being less than five percent of previous levels.

7. Ecosystem susceptibility

Mesic habitats (those with a balanced supply of moisture) have experienced biomass losses while arid habitats have experienced biomass increases.

The imposition on arid habitats of increased livestock biomass (mostly sedentary), is causing disturbance to vegetation that usually has a seasonal dynamic. For example, year-round trampling and grazing may increase grass tuft mortality and thereby increased soil erosion by wind and water, and reduced water infiltration due to soil compaction and greater run-off.

The removal of elephants from mesic habitats holds more substantial ecological implications, by increasing woody growth and reducing movement of nutrients in these typically highly leached, nutrient-poor ecosystems. Humans are replacing some of this elephant functionality by harvesting fuelwood, and currently, woody biomass is reducing over much of the continent, despite the ongoing encroachment of woody vegetation.

Human hunting is likely to remain the greatest threat to large mammal herbivores in Africa’s tropical forest ecosystems, exacerbating current effects on seed dispersal, recruitment and vegetation structure in the forest understory.

The general shift from migratory native to resident livestock herbivore populations represents a ubiquitous distortion of large mammal herbivore ecology. Only a handful of ecosystems now retain the diversity of functional seasonal resources necessary to support large, migratory herbivore populations that can adapt to inherently variable ecosystems. Populations that cannot migrate are more susceptible to drought and are subject to considerable natural fluctuation in herbivore densities.

The full report: Nature.com, Gareth P. Hempson, Sally Archibald, William J. Bond : “The consequences of replacing wildlife with livestock in Africa

Largest US safari club slams door shut on SA’s canned lion industry

African lioness

Sourced from third-party site: Traveller24, written by Simon Bloch

The world’s largest hunting club, Safari Club International (SCI) has slammed the door shut on South Africa’s canned lion industry, announcing it will no longer allow captive-bred lion operators to advertise or market captive-bred lions (CBL) at its annual convention, and will reject all captive-bred lion entries for its record books.

According to the SCI website, the SCI board’s latest decision came into effect on Sunday, a day after its 46th annual convention wraps up in Las Vegas, Nevada.

“This outcome should have an immediate effect on government policy going forward,” a local professional hunter told the author.

He said sources at the SCI convention reported seeing a special representative dispatched by Minister for Environmental Affairs Edna Molewa, assessing the situation there.

According to global opinion, the canned hunting and captive-bred lion industries have caused severe reputation damage to the image of South Africa and Brand SA.

Three weeks ago, the Dallas Safari Club joined a host of America’s most reputable hunting institutions that have rejected the Professional Hunters’ Association of South Africa’s (PHASA) recent reversal of its policy around captive-bred lion hunts.

Speaking to the media, Stan Burger, the former president of Professional Hunters Association of South Africa (PHASA), says, “I can’t tell you how happy I am. This is like a crowning achievement for me, and the culmination of two years of hard work. I have been through two years of suffering and anguish because of certain people in the hunting industry. But now this is proof I am finally vindicated,” he said.

Last year, Burger was ousted as the PHASA’s president for trying to enforce its anti-CBL hunting policy and purge the association of CBL operators. He was made to sign certain non-disclosure agreements and later quit the association in disgust.

Johannesburg director for CACH (Campaign Against Canned Hunting), Linda Park, said, “I was over the moon when I read the SCI statement. The leadership at SCI have listened to the voices of reason and acted, and for that, they should be congratulated. We were all anticipating an announcement from SCI, but what they were going to say, nobody really knew.

“SCI’s position at this crucial time in our campaign is most welcome and adds to our firm belief that the end of this wretched and deplorable practice is in sight.

“Our own government should listen and follow these examples, and close down these pitiful lion breeding operations, as well as the ruthless killers who market and conduct these disgusting hunts.

“That will be the ultimate vindication for all those who have been fighting to close this shameful industry down. To paraphrase Neil Armstrong: ‘one small step for man, one giant leap for lions’,” she said.

In its statement, SCI says: “In considering that the practice of the captive breeding of lions for the purpose of hunting has doubtful value to the conservation of lions in the wild, and considering that such hunting is not consistent with SCI’s criteria for estate hunting, the SCI Board has adopted the following policy:

• SCI opposes the hunting of African lions bred in captivity.

• This policy takes effect on February 4, 2018 and applies to hunts taking place after adoption of this policy and to any Record Book entry related to such hunts.

• SCI will not accept advertising from any operator for any such hunts, nor will SCI allow operators to sell hunts for lions bred in captivity at the SCI Annual Hunters’ Convention.”

Stewart Dorrington, president of the newly-formed Custodians of Professional Hunting and Conservation South Africa (CPHCSA) says, “We commend SCI for their bold statement on captive bred lions and trust that other respected hunting associations will take note and follow suit.”

Lamu Town: A place forgotten by time on Africa’s coast

Donkeys and tourist in Lamu Town, Kenya
© Maurice Schutgens

Established in 1370 as one of the original Swahili settlements, the charming town of Lamu in Kenya is one of Africa’s oldest and most authentic places. The chaotic narrow streets pulse with life, in a laid-back way, while the historic sights and rich aromas of spices transport you back to a time when the Portuguese, British and Omanis fought for control over the jewel of the Lamu Archipelago.

Lamu Town from across the channel in Kenya
© Maurice Schutgens

Our flight from Mombasa touched down at Manda Airport, located across the channel from Lamu Island, at midday. Navigating our way through the small airport was but a formality as the humidity settled in with a vengeance.

At the end of the pier, we watched the jostle for position amongst the boat captains with awe as each tried to secure a fair from one of the newcomers to Lamu. Captain Abdi was waiting to whisk us across the channel.

Lamu Town, Kenya
© Maurice Schutgens

Constructed from a mixture of white limestone and coral, with intricately carved Lamu-style doors, Lamu Town’s architecture is simply stunning.

An intricately carved Lamu-style door in Lamu Town, Kenya
© Maurice Schutgens

Wandering aimlessly through the narrow corridors, being careful to sidestep the odd donkey on the trot, is the best way to explore and immerse yourself in the fusion of Swahili culture that is on display waiting to be experienced.

A local tourist guide in Lamu Town, Kenya
© Maurice Schutgens

Omar, one of the most respected guides in town, weaved us through Lamu with quiet confidence, stopping here and there to show us everything from the fort to the museum to the local market to one of the 26 exquisite mosques along the way.

Mosque in Lamu Town, Kenya
© Maurice Schutgens

Each stop was accompanied by a detailed history of the struggle, opportunity and hope that has shaped Lamu Town over generations. It is fascinating.

Lamu Town castle in Kenya
© Maurice Schutgens

Over the next few days, we fell into a comfortable rhythm. In the mornings, we were awoken by the nearby mosques calling the faithful to prayer before heading out to explore the town, while in the late afternoon, we watched the dhows from our rooftop house patrol the channel as the sun set over the island.

In the early evening, we once again ventured out into the streets to sample the delicious street food on offer while enjoying the warm sea breeze.

Food for sale in Lamu Town, Kenya
© Maurice Schutgens

With our time coming to an end, there was one final place we wanted to see – the famed Shela Beach, located just a stone’s throw away from Lamu Town. Shela Beach is an expansive and completely empty 13km stretch of golden coastline flanked by silent sand dunes – it’s absolutely spectacular.

It took just under three hours to walk to the little settlement of Kizingo on the other side of Lamu Island. In Kizingo, our ever-reliable Captain Abdi picked us up and sailed us around the back of the island, stopping at little villages along the way to demonstrate how traditional dhows are painstakingly constructed.

Person sitting on drift wood on empty beach in Lamu, Kenya
© Maurice Schutgens

Lamu Town has so much to offer for the intrepid traveller. We will be sure to return soon!

Tourist down a side street in Lamu Town, Kenya
© Maurice Schutgens

Trump confirms US elephant trophy ban remains

African elephant in South Luangwa National Park, Zambia
© yeowatzup/flickr

Sourced from third-party site: Traveller24, written by Gabi Zietsman

US President Donald Trump has confirmed in an interview with Piers Morgan that he will not be lifting the ban on elephant trophies from Zambia and Zimbabwe.

In an interview with Piers Morgan for the UK’s ITV that aired on Sunday, the president announced this month after it was first announced that the ban was to be repealed by the United States’ Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS), later halted by Trump after a worldwide outcry.

His reasoning? That the money from hunting doesn’t go to conservation in those countries but instead was “going to a government which was probably taking the money, ok?”

He went on further to explain that the decision to repeal was made by a “high-level government official” that appears to have gone behind the president’s back.

“As soon as I heard about it, I turned it around. That same day – not even a day went by,” Trump said in the interview.

In 2014, the USFWS implemented the import ban on the basis that Zimbabwe had failed to manage its elephant population sustainably. And ongoing anaemic enforcement of wildlife laws has been widely criticised in Zimbabwe. Just last year, the country was shunned for exporting baby elephants caught in the wild, some of which died in transit to a zoo in China. The year before, an international outcry ensued after one of the most beloved and well-studied African lions, Cecil, was lured out of a national park and shot by a US hunter.

The Centre for Biological Diversity and Natural Resources Defence Council initially preempted the potential lifting of the ban by suing the Trump administration.

“Trump is correct that trophy hunting is not benefiting elephants and we hope he follows through on reinstating the trophy import ban, but a tweet is not a policy,” says Tanya Sanerib, senior attorney for the Centre in a tweet.

The USFWS consideration to reverse the ban also applies to trophies from Zambia, where, according to the Great Elephant Census, the elephant population dropped from more than 200 000 elephants in 1972 to just a little over 21 000 in 2016.

Recently there were reports that the new Zimbabwean president also had plans to ban the country’s highly controversial live elephant trade, though a lot of confusion arose about whether this was confirmed by the government, and there hasn’t been any updates confirming or denying it, except that the new regime will be reviewing their conservation policies in order to boost tourism.

Tantalising Tswalu: The Kalahari’s diamond in the rough

It was like a scene out of the movie Jurassic Park. You know, that adrenaline-fuelled, chaotic scene when the bad guys arrive on the island in their vehicles and speed through the bush while dinosaurs scatter out of their way as they hunt for the ultimate dinosaur trophy. Well, this was like that, except I was on a Land Rover flying through the Kalahari bush with a guide at the wheel, with two other Landies driving parallel about 50 metres away. And rather than dinosaurs flanking our sides, there were wild dogs, and they were the ones hunting…

The stunning vistas of the Kalahari are truly awe-inspiring © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve

While trying not to lose sight of the dogs – who had transformed from big-eared, playful puppies to racing greyhound hunters in a millisecond – the guide weaved us around and through the scrubland bushes, dodging porcupine burrows and camel thorns, and it was here that I briefly questioned how on Earth I was here, in the middle of the southern Kalahari, when only just that morning I was still at home in Cape Town.

Well, it all started with a question.

“How would you like to go there?” my boss said, pointing to the screen displaying the most luxurious-looking lodge, seemingly in the middle of nowhere. My first thought was that it looked stunning; my second was: seriously?

Clockwise from left: Caracal relaxing © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve; 2) Cheetah brothers on the prowl  © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve; 3) A gorgeous roan © Christian Boix 4) Elegant herd of impala © Thea Felmore

LEAVING ON A (PRIVATE) JET PLANE

Before I knew it planning was underway to send myself and our travel director, Christian, to Tswalu Kalahari Private Game Reserve in the southern Kalahari – a malaria-free, five-star exclusive lodge owned by the mining magnet Oppenheimer family – to experience the ultimate ‘bling safari’, accompanied with a level of service, cuisine and accommodation that would come to exceed all my expectations (and far beyond anything I could afford). This would be even more luxurious than the Namibian desert flying safari I recently enjoyed.

From Cape Town International Airport we were whisked away in a private jet from the Oppenheimer’s private hanger, Fireblade Aviation, flying directly to Tswalu’s airstrip in a seemingly brief two-hour flight.

The deep red sands of the Kalahari greeted us as we stepped off the plane and were directed to the ‘bush’ terminal where ice-cold wine and snacks were served while our bags were loaded into the Landies by our guide, Julian, and tracker, Ari. The ‘bush’ terminal, an open-air thatched building, had all the necessities required to freshen up before leaving for the lodge. It even included some entertainment, provided by the dozens of sociable weavers who reside inside a massive nest built under the thatch roof – they were constantly darting in and out from the numerous chambers, providing some great photographic opportunities.

A private jet outside a hangar
Thea and Christian’s private jet ready to whisk them off to Tswalu – talk about travelling in style! © Fireblade Aviation

A WARM WELCOME

We arrived at Tswalu’s The Motse lodge to warm hand towels and more refreshing drinks. From the moment I got off the Landy, I felt incredibly welcomed by all the staff I met – each one taking time out from their duties to come and introduce themselves. Everyone seemed to know my name – it was as if I was returning home to a large, extended family, rather than a first-time visit to a private, upmarket lodge. It was refreshing to be in such a friendly, welcoming atmosphere, and I was excited at the thought of what the next three days could hold in store for us.

Christian and I were staying in one of the three family legae (“dwelling” in Tswana) – there are nine legae altogether – where we each had our own room with en suite bathroom and outdoor shower. Massive king-sized beds faced large glass doors that provided unobstructed views of the Kalahari wilderness. As there are no fences between the legae and the wilderness, one of the first rules we were told was never to leave our patio and walk into the bush – who knows what lies in wait?

Beautiful, elegant photo of a king-size bed
A sensational photo of one of the three family legae (“dwelling” in Tswana) at the Motse © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve

With that in mind, I was fervently scanning the landscape from the comfy of my excessively large wicker chair with a drink in hand – having raided the drinks cabinet as one does… – when all of a sudden, my eye caught something small, slinking over towards a hole about two metres away from the patio. I immediately got Christian’s attention from where he was sitting, and we quickly identified the stealthy animal: a Cape fox!

Suddenly she was joined by four baby foxes that zoomed out of their burrow to drink from her. Christian and I just looked at each other, our faces as expressive as an excited mime. We pulled a Matrix move stealthily and silently reaching for our cameras, to not disturb the mother and her babies as they went about playing and relaxing right under our noses. What a way to start our Kalahari adventure!

Left: Cape fox – cuteness overload! © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve; Right: Two cape fox pups with their mother © Christian Boix

JULIAN AND ARI

The exclusivity of Tswalu knows no bounds as guests each have their own guide and tracker, along with the freedom to decide your daily itinerary, and even when you want to eat – the chef is available 24/7. Don’t forget to fit in a spa treatment as well while you’re planning your day.

Because of this flexibility, the likelihood of spotting another game drive vehicle while out in the reserve is highly improbable. It also helps that Tswalu will only take 28 adults at maximum capacity.

It was fantastic to know that we had Julian and Ari all to ourselves. When asked what we were keen on seeing, we replied: “Everything!” And for how long do we want to be out? “As long as possible!”

And that’s precisely what happened. Every morning we were out by 6 am, returning briefly for lunch and a mini siesta for two to three hours, and then back out until returning for a late dinner at 9:30 pm.

Julian was an incredibly enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide, as well as a keen birder, so he and Christian had a lot to talk about, and were kept quite entertained by the myriad of bird species that they spotted. Ari was a phenomenal tracker, and I was amazed by his eagle-eyed spotting skills – even more so when he spotted a stunning rock monitor under a bush!

Clockwise from top left: 1) Black-faced waxbill © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve; 2) A group of beautiful meerkats © Christian Boix; 3) Rock monitor © Thea Felmore; 4) Sociable weaver nest colony © Thea Felmore; 5) Pygmy falcon © Christian Boix

From spending time identifying an array of birds (many that I have never seen before) and getting up close and personal with the habituated meerkat colony, to tracking cheetahs on foot and then quietly observing the southern lion pride for over an hour – I was lost for words.

The four of us journeying around Tswalu non-stop for three full days was just marvellous, albeit exhausting by the end of day three, but we were in our element here in the bush and for that privilege, I would not change a thing!

THE WILD DOG HUNT

A pack of wild dogs and a safari vehicle
A thrilling sighting of a pack of wild dogs while on a game drive © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve

So it was here, on the first afternoon drive at Tswalu, where I found myself grinning from ear to ear as we raced side by side with a hunting pack of four wild dogs. Typically only two vehicles are allowed at a sighting, but when it’s a hunt, then three are permitted.

Julian was always on the radio with the other two guides, keeping each other up to date on the fast-paced movements of the dogs, while Ari directed Julian from the tracker’s seat.

Suddenly we lost sight of the dogs, and while frantically searching for them among the thick vegetation of acacia trees and grasses Ari suddenly shouted: “They have something!… They’ve got a warthog!”

Pulling up beside the dogs we watched as they went after a large warthog, which didn’t seem to be putting up much of a fight – Julian suspected that it was not in good health due to the current dry conditions. The next thing the one dog grabbed the warthog’s tail and dragged it backwards. I looked away, suddenly recalling wild dog hunting techniques: they start eating their prey while it’s still alive.

I paled at the thought, at what was happening right before our eyes. It was the first time I was witnessing a hunt and a kill, and unable to watch such an event I turned away, trying to block out the squealing warthog. It seemed brutal, almost heartless in the way the dogs killed the warthog, and even though it was hard to stomach, I reminded myself that this was raw nature, this was the wild, this was real.

“I knew that warthog,” Ari said with a sad smile once everything had calmed down and the squeals were silenced, “it had half an ear missing, so it was easy to recognise”. C’est la vie.

Left: Alpha female wild dog with two male wild dogs; Right: Wild dog puppy pile. Both photos © Thea Felmore.
Africa Geographic Travel

THE BLACK-MANED BROTHERS OF LEKGABA

With such an overwhelmingly eye-opening start to our stay, we didn’t think anything else could top that – but we were wrong.

Early the next morning, we made our way over to the Lekgaba section of Tswalu. This area is separate from the main part where The Motse is located because a service road (from the time when the area was farmland) still runs through, dividing the two properties.

The one thing that Lekgaba has, that the other does not, is Kalahari black-maned lions.

In Lekgaba the landscape seemed different, with rolling hills and mountains, the bush was thicker and the grass longer thanks to the smaller amount of grazers found on this side. It was quite a treat to experience two very different landscapes on the same reserve.

It didn’t take long for Ari to pick up two sets of tracks belonging to black-maned lion brothers, who are approximately eight to ten-years-old. “Just past their prime,” according to Julian. It was thrilling to think that there was a possibility of seeing my first wild lions – black-maned at that! I was starting to get goosebumps.

Two black-maned lions walking in the Lekgaba section of Tswalu
The famous Kalahari black-maned lion brothers located in the Lekgaba section of Tswalu. This is the only section where these lions can be found © Thea Felmore

Another vehicle joined us in tracking the lions and together Julian and the other guide helped each other out with updates over the radio. At the same time, we slowly headed towards their last known sighting near to the border fence.

Then all too quickly, we found them! And it took my breath away. Tears formed in my eyes as I was taken aback with what I saw: two magnificent, incredibly large male lions strolling through the long grass in the morning sun, casually aware of us but at the same time not interested in our presence at all. I almost forgot to pick up my camera as I was mesmerised by their beauty and raw power.

Julian made sure to keep with the lions’ pace, but at one point the one brother came awfully close to us, glancing up at the vehicle and straight into my eyes.

“Are we not too close to them?” I whispered to Julian, “Will we be safe being so close?” I was starting to feel nervous, but Julian assured me that these two brothers were fine with the vehicle, and besides, “they are more interested in the zebra across the road”.

“Zebra? What zebra?”

And sure enough directly across the service road, behind the fence, was a Hartmann’s mountain zebra, following the lions as they kept on walking down the road along the border fence. It was hilarious and surreal at the same time – it was as if the zebra was almost mocking the brothers as if to say: “You want me? You want a piece of this? Well, you can’t, so there!”

I came away with one of the most incredible sightings of my life. I can still clearly remember the thrill of watching those two magnificent creatures walking so close to us, looking into their eyes, and feeling powerless and vulnerable in their presence.

A lion grooming his cub
A wonderful moment of the bond between a lion and his cub © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve

MEETING SIR CHARLES

Of all the animals that Tswalu featured on their list of wildlife species, the pangolin was one that I was most hopeful to see, though I knew the chances were slim.
However, I discovered that an academic researcher from Wits University, Wendy Panaino, who’s studying them as part of her doctorate, would be out in the field on our second night.

An up close photo of a pangolin
Pangolins are burrowing animals. They are insect eaters, with ants and termites being their food of choice. © Christian Boix

Waiting with baited breath, our prayers were answered late in the evening when we got the call that she was out and with one of the pangolins, ‘number four’, or fondly referred to as ‘Sir Charles’ by the guides.

Having published so many articles about the tragic fate that pangolins are currently going through with poaching and illegal trafficking, it was an ethereal moment when I met Sir Charles. He was going about his night digging and excavating ant nests while I stood a mere metre away spellbound. It was incredible to watch him in action, eating only particular ants and termites that make up his main diet.

Pangolin rolled up into a ball
Pangolins roll up into a ball when they feel threatened © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve

Wendy told me more about her research while we observed Sir Charles rummaging through the bushes. Her doctorate is based around researching the consequences of climate change in the arid Kalahari and how it affects the availability of ants and termites, their social behaviour, the timing of the breeding season, and home range shifts. There are several pangolins that she studies in Tswalu, each fitted with a body temperature monitor and tracker.

We spent almost three hours following Sir Charles around in the dark, watching as Wendy took notes of his movements and collected samples of the ants he was choosing to eat.

Later that night I reflected on my encounter with Sir Charles, and realised that I couldn’t find the right words to describe the sort of emotions I was going through while being so close to such an endangered species – I found myself speechless, honoured and humbled to have met such an incredible creature that night.

Read more about Sir Charles and the rest of the pangolins and the research being done in the Kalahari.

OVERINDULGING WITH NO REGRETS

Tswalu is all-inclusive, and that includes drinks (soft and alcoholic), as well as much as you want to indulge in. Sumptuous dinners take place in one of three locations, depending on the day, and the menu is catered towards your particular eating preferences. The meals are exquisite and decadent – flambéed Magnum ice-cream a la baked Alaska anyone?

Breakfast and lunch can be taken at any time during daylight hours, and I thoroughly enjoyed eggs benedict with salmon for one of my lunches.

Every afternoon the chef lays out a delicious high-tea spread, where sweet and savoury bite-sized snacks were on offer.

Of course, there is also the wine cellar and drinks bar in the lodge bar where you can help yourself to whatever takes your fancy.

Did I mention that there is a pre-game drive breakfast spread in the main lounge for early rises? Everything from croissants, muffins, yoghurt, fruit, cheeses, bread and a range of coffees and teas are available.

And then, of course, there are the midday snacks of nuts, fruit, date balls and rolled omelettes served with filter coffee while out on a drive.
Tswalu is a culinary destination where you bring your appetite and leave your diet at the door.

Clockwise from top left: 1) A mouth-watering afternoon tea selection of food as well as tea and coffee; 2) A vibrant-coloured carrot cake, complemented by an eclectic presentation; 3) Indulging in tasty game drive snacks. 4) Asian prawn curry – are you hungry yet? All photos © Thea Felmore

AARDVARK, AARDWOLF… AND AARDAPPEL?

Christian and I were keen on seeing some creatures of the twilight, including the elusive aardvark and aardwolf. However, the most we got out of our evening/night drives were a lot of jackals, spring hares (humorously referred to as ‘Kalahari kangaroos’), and nightjars.

We started to joke that even an aardappel (potato) would suffice.

It was our last evening drive, and the sun was quickly making its way to the horizon as we ventured into an unexplored area, keeping an eye out for the “aards” and brown hyena.

A close up of an Aardvark
The reclusive aardvark © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve

As Julian rounded a corner and drove into a large open area, Ari quickly shot up his hand, pointing to a spot about a hundred metres away, we followed his direction, and our eyes landed on two black rhinos!

We had unknowingly stumbled upon the elusive black rhino mother and her year-old calf.

They were some distance from us, but unfortunately, the wind was not on our side, and she immediately picked up on our presence, and they disappeared into the safety of the thick bush. It was unbelievable luck to come across such a sighting (a first for me!), and in celebration, we brought out the sundowners and observed as the blanket of diamond stars began covering the darkening sky.

Sipping on gin & tonics, we reminisced about our brief but action-packed adventure in the wildlife-rich Kalahari, on how it had been such a phenomenal, once-in-a-lifetime experience for me.

A close up of the elusive black rhino – a very special sight © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve

Just as we were finishing up, we suddenly heard what sounded like thunder emanating from the darkness. It was deep, constant, and coming closer. Ari spun around, hands cupping his ears as he tried to pinpoint the source. It was the rhino, and according to Ari, she and her calf were aiming for the waterhole nearby, charging through the bushes in the dark. It sounded terrifying, and immediately I was looking for the quickest route into the Landy.

Fortunately, she must have taken a wide detour to the waterhole as she never appeared, but it was still a close call, especially in the dark where the vegetation was melting into the darkness.

Adrenaline pumping and eyes wide, we all looked at each other, nervous laughter spread through the group as we realised how close we were to meeting the rhino and her calf up close.

We decided that maybe it was best we packed up and headed back to the lodge for dinner… though… on second thought, perhaps just one more gin & tonic for the dusty red road.

Africa Geographic Travel

ABOUT THE SOUTHERN KALAHARI

Situated in the Northern Cape of South Africa, the southern Kalahari forms part of the larger Kalahari Desert that covers 9,000,000 km² of arid to semi-arid land covering most of Botswana and parts of Namibia and South Africa.

The name Kahalari is derived from the Tswana word “Kgala”, meaning “the great thirst”, or Kgalagadi, meaning “the waterless place”.

The southern Kalahari is also known as the ‘green’ Kalahari due to its location and climatic conditions – as it receives more rain than the central Kalahari.

It has been inhabited by Bushman for 20,000 years, who lived as hunter-gatherers in a harmonious relationship with the environment until the influx of Africans and Europeans.

Known for its stunning red sand dunes, vast landscapes and the incredible night sky, the southern Kalahari supports a variety of flora, such as acacias and grasses, and fauna. Animals that live in the region include brown hyenas, the Kalahari lion, leopards, cheetahs, meerkats, giraffes, warthogs, jackals, chacma baboons, and several species of antelope (including the eland, gemsbok, springbok, hartebeest, steenbok, kudu, and duiker), and many species of birds and reptiles.

Clockwise from left: Three exquisite giraffes ambling through the bush © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve; 2) Sable antelope, with his sensational curved horns © Christian Boix; 3) A regal leopard © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve

ABOUT TSWALU KALAHARI PRIVATE GAME RESERVE

Tswalu is South Africa’s largest private game reserve, situated on the edge of the southern Kalahari, surrounded by the beautiful Koranneberg mountains. Covering an area of over 1,100 km² (110,000 hectares), it is family-friendly and malaria-free.

Over 80 species of mammals can be found on the reserve, including black-maned lions, pangolin, aardvark and black rhino, together with approximately 240 species of birds.

History
The original reserve was created as a hunting property by Stephen Boler, a British businessman, who bought up 35 farms, totalling some 88,000 hectares. Stephen and Nicky Oppenheimer met only once but instantly recognised each other’s love and respect for the southern Kalahari. When Stephen tragically died, his will specified that Tswalu was to be offered first to Nicky.

The Oppenheimer family took ownership in 1998. Hunting stopped overnight, and the land was given back to itself. Breeding programmes for rare and endangered species, such as roan and sable antelope, were developed and academic researchers were invited in.

Further neighbouring farms have been gradually acquired and transformed, adding more habitats, more of the spectacular Korannaberg mountains, more diversity. Countless buildings have been demolished and removed. And everywhere, the grasses have returned.

Where to stay at Tswalu Kalahari

Check out our preferred camps & lodges for the best prices, browse our famous packages for experience-based safaris and search for our current special offers.

Thea and Christian stayed at one of the three accommodation options at Tswalu Kalahari Reserve: two accommodation options, along with a sleep-out experience.

THE MOTSE

The Motse can accommodate up to 18 adults in nine individual thatch-roof legae. Each legae comes with an en suite bathroom, outside shower, and private patio providing sweeping views of the Kalahari landscape. Three of the legae are family units that come with two separate rooms with their own en suite bathrooms.

From left to right: 1) The glorious boma. Enjoy your meal under the African sky; 2) Cool off and relax at the splendid pool deck All photos © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve

TARKUNI
Tarkuni, originally the Oppenheimer’s private villa, was transformed into a homestead that can accommodate up to 10 guests, ideal for smaller groups and family gatherings.

Each room has an en suite bathroom and outdoor star bed. All of the rooms open into an open-plan lounge and dining area. Guests can enjoy a swim in the private pool, or relax in the library or games room. A personal chef, vehicle, guide and tracker are at your disposal while at Tarkuni.

Clockwise from top left: 1) The stunning fire pit, complemented by the inviting semi-circle-shaped couch, is the perfect place to keep warm on a chilly night; 2) The fusion of rustic decor – yet with a sophisticated flair – is exquisite; 3) A luxurious suite that boasts a beautiful balcony overlooking the bushveld; 4) Cool off in the pool and then recline back on one of the deck chairs – a perfect way to relax. All photos © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve

THE MALORI
The Malori gives guests the option of an incredible ‘sleep under the stars’ experience. Built on a raised platform, the Malori is fitted with all the luxuries, including a king-sized bed. A short walk leads you to the outdoor toilet, basin and shower. Guests can enjoy dinner prepared by their guide (or opt to make it themselves) while watching the sun set over the rolling red sand dunes of the Kalahari.

Clockwise from left to right: 1) Your king-sized bed is covered by a thatched roof – that’s it. No windows or doors at all; 2) An incredible view of the expanse of the wondrous landscape; 3) The sleep-deck is equipped with an outdoor shower. All photos © Tswalu Kalahari Reserve
Africa Geographic Travel

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

As a former field guide and teacher, Thea Felmore has combined her passion for the English language and love of wildlife to work behind the scenes as a content editor sharing African wildlife, travel and culture with a global online audience. When not in front of the screen she makes time to get out and explore the beautiful Cape Town wilderness in search for her favourite reptile species (and other fascinating creatures, of course).

Cuteness alert: Rescued baby genets

baby genets
© Zuri Orphanage

Curled up in a blanket, sleeping next to their furry little friends, these two baby genets stole the heart of their caretaker, Erika, at ZURI Orphanage in Namibia. The two genets arrived at different times and are being raised for release back into the wild.

baby genet and friend
© Zuri Orphanage
babies and Erika, the caretaker
© Zuri Orphanage
cute baby genet
© Zuri Orphanage

Here is what Dr Erika de Jager shared with Africa Geographic:

“I received a phone call from one of my clients asking me if I would like to take care of a baby genet. It was love at first sight! We fed him kitty milk and he loved it. During the same time, my cat had a litter of kittens. This was a lifesaver as the kittens loved to play with the baby genet.  It is pure magic to watch them play. Then, it was an even greater surprise when Onguma Lodge asked me if I could take care of another baby genet.

“We are so grateful that they entrusted him to us as he was only a day old. We fed him with an intravenous catheter the first two days with kitty milk and then he started drinking on his own – his eyes only opened after 10 days. The genets are both doing very well and are still drinking from the bottle. They are not ready to be released yet.”

ZURI Orphanage is currently raising funds to build a large cage to prepare the genets to be released. Any donations would be appreciated. Please note that genets are wild animals and do not make good pets.

feeding baby genet
© Zuri Orphanage
sleeping babies
© Zuri Orphanage
baby genet and his kitten friends
© Zuri Orphanage
baby genet and friends
© Zuri Orphanage
a day old genet
© Zuri Orphanage
baby genet
© Zuri Orphanage
baby genet and a friend
© Zuri Orphanage
baby genets and Erika
© Zuri Orphanage

Rhino poaching update – we look behind the numbers

Poached rhino
A poached pregnant rhino © Susan Scott for STROOP

The 2017 rhino poaching numbers were released yesterday by Dr Edna Molewa, South African Minister of Environmental Affairs (DEA). We look at the numbers behind the numbers.

Susan Scott and Bonné de Bod of STROOP report:

Year after year we hear the rhino poaching numbers on radio, watch them on tv or read them here at Africa Geographic.  But what do those figures mean, and what’s actually behind them. Because let’s be honest, there’s so much secrecy in the fight against rhino poaching that a lot is kept from the public … in the interest of rhino security, sure, but so much is happening on the ground that the numbers don’t show. As filmmakers, we’ve been lucky to get access to all these role-players on the ground and this is our take on the numbers released for 2017:

“A minor decrease in the number of rhino poached nationally in 2017”.  That’s the line Minister Molewa used in her report.  A total of 1,028 rhinos were poached during the year 2017, down from 1,054 in 2016 – the second year in a row we have seen a slight decrease – mostly because of the reductions achieved in the Kruger National Park.  Great news for Kruger, down 24% to just over 500 rhinos poached for 2017. But if we take a closer look at the provincial stats, we see the true story behind the overall decrease:

Rhino poaching 2017 numbers by province

Apart from the Kruger region, only three other provinces achieve negative poaching numbers.  Gauteng doesn’t really count with a drop from 6 to 4, and in the Eastern Cape, the drop from 17 to 12 was probably due to the arrest of one gang of darters. But Limpopo, down to 79 from 90, is great news! Bear in mind that Limpopo had four years of high numbers around the 100 mark.  The bulk of rhinos in Limpopo are privately owned and the Limpopo Rhino Security Group (LRSG) was formed two years ago in an attempt to join the farmers in targeting the onslaught.  The group has been working with various SAPS units (from stock theft to crime intelligence), private anti-poaching units and the DEA’s EMI enforcers to bring down the poaching. It’s been a huge effort and it’s paying off. The legalizing of local trade did have some impact in the province with several of the farmers telling us they would sell horn the minute it became legal to do so.  Several owners dehorned in anticipation of sales – possibly an added benefit as a deterrent.

Rhino poaching carcass
Bonné de Bod and a private rhino owner inspect a rhino poached on his farm © Susan Scott for STROOP

The rest of the provinces however have been hit hard.  Kwa-Zulu Natal was a disaster area, with the well-publicized onslaught in the provincial parks. How can we forget the cow and calf killed right in the heart of iMfolozi, at the game capture bomas, just after the organization’s game auction. How shocking that two security guards with one weapon between them were protecting millions of rands of assets that had just been sold. Almost all of the 222 poachings in Kwa-Zulu Natal were government-owned rhinos – fewer than 5% from privately-owned reserves and farms.  A massive dehorning effort from the private owners in the area throughout 2017 may have acted as a further deterrent.  The vets were very busy in Limpopo and KZN during 2017.

North West suffered a 72% increase – with tourists to Pilanesburg reporting the massacres. Several private rhino owners in the province were also targeted.  The Northern Cape and the Freestate continued their significant poaching increases from 2015 through into 2017 (100% and 124%).  The bulk of rhinos in these provinces are privately-owned. We visited a farmer just outside Kimberley in the middle of winter last year who had lost 9 rhinos literally overnight. 9 rhinos!

Surely Kwa-Zulu Natal, the home of the white rhino, should be doing a better job of securing their future? Unconfirmed reports of alleged “capture” of some of the province’s judiciary and enforcement resources are a concern. And it’s sobering that even our own police minister tweeted last year that our police force has been infiltrated.  We know from rangers on the ground in Kwa-Zulu Natal that many of the spoor from poachers they follow under the full “poachers moon” are of repeat offenders – caught previously with blood all over them, in possession of rhino horns. It’s simply not good enough that our dedicated rangers are putting their lives on the line, and yet not getting the support they need.

Contrast that to what is happening in the Kruger National Park. We’ve been filming with the rangers on the ground there as well as the SAPS investigating officers and the special prosecutors from the NPA. Everyone works exceptionally well together and you can see it in their convictions, almost doubling from 58 to 111 last year. One of the reasons why the poaching has decreased in the park, is not only new technology coming in over the past year but also, as Maj. Gen. Jooste always says, ‘technology can do a lot, but it’s the human element that makes the real difference’.  And we’ve seen that success on the back of a team effort – from the Kruger ranger who ensures a clean arrest to the SAPS investigating officer who makes the case watertight, and the prosecutor who doesn’t let the well-paid defence team of lawyers get the poachers off on technicalities.

In closing, it is with some heartache that we look at the figure of 222 poached rhinos for Kwa-Zulu Natal.  Two of those rhinos we got to know well and filmed on numerous occasions – Gugu and Impy.  Gugu and Impy were orphans who were saved and taken to Karen Trendler and her team at the Thula Thula Rhino Orphange. They were poached when the orphanage, now closed, was attacked in February 2017. Gugu was killed immediately, but little Impy suffered tremendously and had to be euthanised while battling to breathe through what was left of his face.  It must’ve been an awful thing to see him struggling to keep his battered head up out of the mud that surrounded him, threatening to suffocate Impy through his open nasal cavities.  The irony, is that when he was orphaned, he was found next to his mother’s carcass drinking her seeping body fluid and eating the mud surrounding her to stay alive. 18 months later, here he was suffering the same awful, awful death.

It’s tough for us to read the 222 statistic for Kwa-Zulu Natal and not think of Impy. For us this puts a real perspective on each individual rhino of the 1028 poached in 2017.  What we can take away is what the minister said, “I know it doesn’t sound like a lot but it’s 26 fewer animals”.  And that has to count for something … surely? Susan Scott and Bonné de Bod

©
Kruger National Park crime scene © Susan Scott for STROOP

Pangolin research in the Kalahari

Up close of a pangolin in the wild
Sir Charles the pangolin © Christian Boix

Out among the red sand dunes of the southern Kalahari, with the sun setting on the horizon, you may be lucky enough to find a small armoured creature going about its evening, foraging and scratching around for its favourite food – ants and termites – seemingly oblivious to any human presence.

As a torchlight illuminates his way, ground pangolin ‘number four’ – or Sir Charles as he is fondly called by the guides – is unknowingly helping research to determine the real effects of climate change on the physiology of pangolins and how they might cope with increasingly hotter and drier conditions in arid environments. In the greater scheme of things, this research should hopefully contribute to the larger issue of global pangolin conservation and help to predict how pangolins may respond to climate change in the future. Ground pangolins are also called Temminck’s or the Cape pangolin.

And out there leading this particular research is Wendy Panaino. As part of her PhD at Wits University, she is currently conducting research at Tswalu Kalahari Private Game Reserve in South Africa, situated on the southwest edge of the ground pangolin distribution range. She has been heading out into the Kalahari wilderness practically every night for the past few years to track and monitor one of a number of tagged pangolins, thanks to a VHF receiver and antenna to help locate them.

Ground pangolin with tracker attached in Kalahari, South Africa
Sir Charles with the tracker attached to his scales © Christian Boix

Her research is mainly centred around determining the consequences of climate change on pangolins. For example, pangolins are primarily nocturnal but may shift their activity times to avoid the high temperatures during summer or become more diurnal to avoid the cold nighttime temperatures during winter.

In addition, the impacts on prey availability of specific ants and termites may affect their diet if drier and hotter conditions prevail, as insects are very susceptible to changes in climate and environment. One aspect affecting pangolin physiology and behaviour is increased temperatures, leading to an increase in water requirements and an increase in prey consumption (their main source of water).

Wild pangolin head and claws digging up ants
Pangolins are myrmecophagous, meaning that they feed exclusively on ants and termites © Thea Felmore

One of four pangolin species found in Africa, the ground pangolin (Smutsia temminckii) is the only pangolin species to inhabit arid environments in the southern African region.

Because not much is known about the physiology and ecology of these pangolins, this long-term, detailed research (a first of its kind for this species) will determine how they may react and cope with increasingly warmer conditions in this arid region. Using miniature temperature data loggers implanted in the pangolin, Wendy has been able to investigate and measure core body temperatures of the pangolins and has documented several interesting behaviours and dietary patterns.

Researcher collecting ant samples for pangolin research in Kalahari
Wendy collecting ant samples © Thea Felmore

As Wendy follows Sir Charles around, she collects data in the form of ants and termites that he has just fed on, from which she can determine the type of ant/termite species he is eating, the amount of nutrients and water he is receiving in his diet, among other things. She is also observing his behaviour (activity levels, feeding habits, types of ants or termites eaten, distance covered, etc), and the availability of ants and termites in his habitat.

Pangolin scales up close
Pangolin scales up close © Thea Felmore

Wendy’s research on a wild population of pangolins at a regional scale will provide valuable information that can be used to ensure the survival of a species that is already severely threatened by the illegal wildlife trade.

Ground pangolin foraging for food in bush in Kalahari
Sir Charles going about this evening foraging © Thea Felmore

Zombie ants and the dark side of the Force

zombie ant in Sapo National Park, Liberia
A zombie ant in Sapo National Park, Liberia © Andrei Daniel Mihalca (Photographer of the Year 2018 entry)

You may be mistaken to believe that the Force is only found out in a galaxy far, far away, but in actual fact you can find it right here in nature. Next time you’re in a tropical rainforest, take a look under a leaf close to the ground and you may find a zombie ant, clinging to life while a deadly parasitic fungus uses mind-control to slowly feed off it and grow.

Zombie ants may sound like something out of a sci-fi thriller, but they do exist, and the culprit that uses it’s own dark version of the Force is the deadly Ophiocordyceps unilateralis – an insect-pathogenising fungus.

The parasitic fungus infects mainly one variety of ant – the carpenter ant – where its spores are picked up by the ant on the rainforest floor. (Normally the ants are located higher in the canopy, but sometimes they deviate from the normal trail and fall to the floor). Once infected, the fungus uses its powers to have the ant ascend the nearest plant stem where it settles under a leaf (or attaches to the stem itself) that is around 25cm off the ground – the ideal zone where the temperature and humidity allow the fungus to grow.

With the ant’s mandibles permanently locked onto the leaf (thanks to the fungus mind-control), the fungus will grow and feed off the ant’s non-vital organs. Eventually the ant dies and the fungus sends out a stalk through the ant’s head where fresh spores are released allowing for more ants to become infected.

Interestingly, it was only until recently that studies revealed how this parasitic fungus actually takes control of an ant. Initially it was thought to go for the brain, controlling the ant’s actions while feeding off its non-vital organs. However, it has now been discovered that the fungus actually infects the ant’s muscles and incredibly leaves the brain untouched. This means that the ant is still technically conscious of what is going on, but it cannot move as the fungus has control.

Now if that isn’t a horror story of minuscule proportions we don’t know what is!

Kalahari lions: Research sheds light on population

Two African lions in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in South Africa
© Derek Keats/Flickr

Lions are threatened across their natural range, and the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (KTP) straddling South Africa and Botswana is a stronghold for the species.

research project, conducted during 2013-2015 and published in April 2017, resulted in a population estimate of 246 (237–256) lions (most precise of three count methods) in the southwestern sector of KTP, which is higher than previous estimates.

Summary

A 30% population decline and 80% range reduction over the past 20 years has resulted in there being fewer than 20,000 wild lions remaining in Africa, across 65 natural populations. Ten of these natural populations are considered strongholds – and KTP is one of these ten strongholds.

Small populations of animals that are subjected to high rates of human persecution, such as Africa’s lions, have a greater likelihood of extinction, and so understanding trends in population size, age and sex is important.

Previous research over the preceding 40 years suggested a relatively stable Kalahari lion population of 517 lions in the entire KTP, but research in 2010 off a small sample suggested a male bias of 56%, compared to previous research reflecting a female bias of 58%.

The aim of this research, therefore, was to reduce uncertainty as to population size and key variables.

African lions and cubs at Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in South Africa
© Derek Keats/Flickr

The research was conducted in the dune savanna semi-desert of the southwestern sector of KTP. The area of 14,250 km² covered the Kalahari Gemsbok National Park in South Africa and a buffer strip to the east, in the Gemsbok National Park in Botswana. The researchers drove 49,784 km over 26 months, with 317 days of sampling. They counted 261 individual lions, from 1,162 sightings (of which 1,022 could be identified), and recorded 11 deaths. Of the identified lions, 74 were cubs born during the survey period.

Three methods of counting were utilised, producing the following results:

1. Mark-recapture: 246 (237-256) lions

2. Track indices: 242 (176-307) lions

3. Registration study (after removing known deaths): 250 lions

The report includes a detailed discussion about each of the three methods, including shortcomings and inaccuracies.

The full report: African Journal of Wildlife Research, B. Otto Beukes, Frans G.T. Radloff, Sam M. Ferreira.: “Estimating African lion abundance in the southwestern Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

A large African lion in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in South Africa
© Derek Keats/Flickr

Safari tips: How to find luxury safari lodges at a discount

Luxury lodge in Klaserie, Greater Kruger National Park
Even luxury lodges like this are affordable if you travel outside of the high season © Simon Espley

The price you pay for your safari lodge is primarily determined by when you travel, and so with a bit of flexibility as to the timing of your holidays, you can slash big chunks off your accommodation cost.

It helps to understand what it means to go on safari outside of the usual tourism seasons, and so we have prepared an explanation of the when and what of the safari seasons.

The HIGH / PEAK season – June to October

This is when most people take long leave (the northern hemisphere summer break), and go on safari.

The rules of supply and demand kick in, and lodges are priced at their peak – AND you will find that popular areas such as Botswana and South Africa’s Greater Kruger become fully booked during this period, far in advance. Some publicly accessible wildlife areas can be congested during this period, whereas lodges with exclusive traverse areas don’t suffer from this problem.

These are the dry and dusty months, when there is less vegetation to hinder your view and when animals congregate near water sources and are therefore easier to find. You are likely to see more wildlife during this period and have a higher chance of seeing predators in action.

Wild dogs and elephants at waterhole
Wild dogs share a Savute waterhole during the dry season with elephants © James Gifford

The SHOULDER seasons – November/December & April/May

This is when most international travellers have gone home, and the local and regional travellers are left to enjoy the show.

Lodges drop their prices, and the crowds evaporate – an excellent time to travel!

November/December is a great time for safari because the height of the dry season has broken and the first brief rains bring change to the landscapes, as grass and buds start popping up everywhere. Cute babies start dropping all over the place, and resident predators have a field day. Migratory animals start dispersing after the first rains, but resident populations of most species keep the show on the road.

Migratory birds arrive, and most birds get stuck into breeding and are therefore more vocal and visible. Flying termites emerge and are preyed on by many species, from eagles and snakes to frogs and even leopards. Temperatures are more bearable than in September/October, and the usually infrequent rain clears the smoke and dust from the air.

In April/May, the rains have ended, and widespread water sources are starting to dry up, and animals start moving to areas with permanent water. Temperatures are pleasant, and the bushveld is particularly lush and beautiful.

Shoulder season safari in Africa, lodge accommodation
November/December sees bursts of green grass and buds after the first rains © Simon Espley

The LOW / GREEN / EMERALD season – January to March

This is when all significant holiday periods (local and international) are over, and few people go on safari.

Lodges drop prices significantly as occupancies plummet. This a great time to negotiate reasonable rates and those extras that make you feel pampered and special!

This period sees trees, shrubs and grasses thicken up – making wildlife viewing more difficult. Rainfall (usually once a day in the late afternoon) means widespread water availability, and many species disperse to take advantage of specific food opportunities and to get away from predators. Many resident species remain though but are harder to see. For some experienced travellers, this is their favourite time – because nature is now at full throttle as many species are breeding and there is plenty of food for everybody.

Green season safari in Africa, walking through African bush grass
During the green season, the grass is long, and the trees and bushes are thickly foliaged © Kelsea Lee
Ask an expert

Of course, these ‘rules’ vary regionally, and according to local conditions and animal movements. For example, the Kasanka bat and the Liuwa Plain wildebeest migrations in Zambia happen in November.

That’s why you need sound advice about when, where, and what on safari. There is nothing like experience to guide your safari choices.

For accommodation options at the best prices visit our collection of camps and lodges: private travel & conservation club. If you are not yet a member, see how to JOIN below this story.

Rediscovering Kruger

Living on the African continent, we have a vast array of protected areas to visit. Those of us with a travel-addiction and passion for wildlife endeavour to visit them all – the Okavango, Maasai Mara and Serengeti to mention just a few. However, we sometimes overlook what we have right on our doorstep, such as the legendary Kruger National Park in South Africa. Some of us have practically grown up with it, building layers upon layers of wonderful and precious memories.

After spending a couple of years visiting other parks, I decided it was time to go back to Kruger and recollect those memories. I booked in the northern area as this would give me access to travel to the central area of the park as well.

The first thing that hit me was how dry everything was. I remember many years ago all the rivers were full and flowing, and now the Shingwedzi and Letaba were dry riverbeds with pools of water here and there. The clouds had been gathering on my arrival, and hopefully, the rain was on the way. Nevertheless, the landscapes were still remarkable.

A dry riverbed, Kruger National Park, South Africa
A dry riverbed in Kruger – rain is needed desperately © Shirli Jade Carswell

The magnificent boys

In the Kruger, there is a project called the Emerging Tuskers Project that aims to identify all of the tuskers (elephants with large tusks) in the park. More in-depth coverage of this project can be found here: Giants of the Future. Due to poaching concerns, specific locations of these tuskers, such as the ones I was fortunate to spot, are not revealed.

First, there was Nkombo – whom I managed to identify later correctly – and I was able to watch him from a safe distance while he went about his daily activities. His enormous tusks were perfect, and as the only vehicle in his presence, I felt truly honoured and in awe.

Elephant with magnificent tusks in the Kruger
Nkombo’s gigantic tusks are a sight to behold © Shirli Jade Carswell

Later on, in a different area, the breathtaking Mandzemba stood in the pale grass, pulling tufts and shaking them briefly before eating. In the stillness of the bush, I could hear his chewing and shifting from one foot to another. His tusks looked as though they would surely plough through the earth if he put his head down. I saw him again some days later, heading for the water as the sun was going down. I could not have wished for a better sundowner.

A large tusker elephant named Mandzemba in Kruger National Park, South Africa
The mighty – yet elegant – tusker, Mandzemba © Shirli Jade Carswell

Because of the dry conditions, the waterholes were a constant hive of activity. In the late afternoon, the breeding herds would arrive from every direction.

Appearing through the stunted mopane bush, their pace would pick up when the water was in sight, and the younger generation would start running with the matriarchs, aunts and sisters keeping up.

A herd of elephants at a waterhole in Kruger National Park, South Africa
There was constant activity at the waterholes because of the dry conditions © Shirli Jade Carswell

Their arrival, of course, would scatter the rest of the wildlife by the waterholes. The dust filtered through the air and light, giving me some delightful photos.

Zebra and buffalo scatter as an elephant approaches waterhole in Kruger National Park, South Africa
The dominance of the elephant is clearly shown as zebra, wildebeest and buffalo scatter as it approached the waterhole © Shirli Jade Carswell

And once again, I found myself falling in love with these special Kruger elephants, wondering why I had stayed away for so long?

Large tusker elephant at a waterhole in Kruger National Park, South Africa
Mandzemba making his way to the waterhole for a much-needed drink © Shirli Jade Carswell
Africa Geographic Travel

Travelling light

I enjoy camping; it somehow makes me feel more connected to wherever I am. And when it comes to camps: the smaller, the better. I enjoy the more rustic wilderness camps like Balule or Tsendze where like-minded people enjoy the peace and quiet.

When camping, I sleep in my very own little ‘tent-cot’, which is a bit unusual, but perfect for light packing. It folds out as a lounger would, and getting in and out is an art. At Shingwedzi early one morning, as I slid carefully out of my tiny abode in a half-asleep state, I was faced with about eight people all standing in a circle around my tent discussing what this ‘thing’ could be… it was a slightly awkward encounter, and I’m not sure who was more surprised!

A tent-cot, camping table and 4x4 vehicle in Kruger National Park, South Africa
A tent-cot is a real space saver! © Shirli Jade Carswell

Part of the pleasure of a park like Kruger is the self-drive aspect and spotting wildlife yourself. The unpredictability of what you may see is exciting, and I always recommend that visitors who are coming for the first time take the opportunity of a self-drive after staying at a safari lodge, to experience another perspective.

Cheetahs are just thrilling to see, no matter where you are. While I was in Kruger, I happened to come across a mother and her two cubs who were finishing up their lunch – their interaction was captivating. Besides helping to clean each other in spots they would not otherwise reach, the grooming is essential for bonding. Fortunately, that wasn’t my last cheetah sighting, and I was thrilled to come across a solitary cheetah peering through the gnarled trunks of the mopane.

Left: A solitary cheetah peers through the gnarled trunks of the mopane; Right: A beautiful moment captured of a cheetah mother and her two cubs © Shirli Jade Carswell

I can spend hours watching the chacma baboon troops in Kruger. Their relationships can be likened to that of human relationships, and the new babies are simply enchanting.

Every time I see a troop, I am reminded of my father’s favourite story:

Many years ago, we were driving through the Kruger in our family Pontiac, a classic car now, but then quite standard. My father had, up to that point, endless problems with the one windscreen wiper – no one could seem to get it to sit correctly. In those days, the baboons had a habit of jumping on cars to peer through the windows. A big chap jumped onto the Pontiac, grabbed the offending wiper, thus bending it, before jumping off again. Would you believe it? The wiper sat perfectly! My father took great delight in making sure the auto guys knew who had fixed the wiper.

Baby chacma baboon with mother in Kruger National Park, South Africa
The chacma baboon is also known as the Cape baboon. Their social behaviour is not too dissimilar to humans in certain aspects © Shirli Jade Carswell

Natural design

As a designer, I am always blown away by the shapes, colours and structures of how everything in nature is ‘put together’. Zebras with their graphics, the way the lines move or are caught by the light. The elegant giraffe floating between the treetops in their geometric design and the icon of the national parks. The handsome kudu with sculpted horns and their soft female counterparts.

Giraffe from behind in Kruger National Park, South Africa
A giraffe browses in the Kruger © Shirli Jade Carswell

Overall I found that Kruger’s wildlife looked impressive and healthy, even though it was dry with the park holding its breath for rain. 

Clockwise from left: The stripes on every zebra are unique to the individual – the detail is phenomenal; A herd of zebra provide the opportunity for exquisite photos; The iconic kudu is a delicate, wondrous animal © Shirli Jade Carswell
Africa Geographic Travel

Hippo love, lunch with a leopard and dagga boys

They may act like ‘blobs’ in the water with a nice yawn now and then, but hippos can be full of humour. I have seen them playing like puppies, and one thing was confirmed for me while in Kruger: those photos you see with the plants on their heads are sometimes on purpose.

There were hardly any plants in the water except for this one floating ‘garland’, and this chap made a point of going underneath it, to have it positioned on his neck, to present to his lady-love. He eventually got it right after several attempts, and I felt like they were now ‘married’, joined by the floating garland, amidst the cheers of my clapping.

I have always managed to get good sightings of leopards in the Kalahari and other parks, but no such luck with Kruger, having always just missed seeing it, or at such a distance that it is hardly a proper sighting. This particular trip, however, presented me with three beautiful specimens, the last being this little lady (see photo below) who seemed to be waiting for her mother. She sat in the tree, no more than four metres away, mostly just gazing at me. I sat there for hours, enjoying her presence.

Left: A breathtaking close up of a leopard; Right: A splendid capture of two hippos at play © Shirli Jade Carswell

Someone once described the look from a buffalo as, “You owe me money”, a perfect description I thought. In earlier years, I remember watching massive herds stampeding in the dust. Years later, on other visits, it seems as though these herds have disappeared. Fortunately, luck was on my side, and I came across some decent-sized herds on this trip.

A herd of buffalo in Kruger National Park, South Africa
The buffalo is one of South Africa’s Big 5, and they are abundant in the Kruger © Shirli Jade Carswell

From my time spent in Kruger, one thing is for sure: I will be back shortly! I fell totally in love yet again with this gem we have just hours away.
My parents, John and Ann, who taught my sisters and me the love and respect for wildlife, have a memorial bench at Lower Sabie camp. If you ever there, please sit down and have a beer with them.

For accommodation options at the best prices visit our collection of camps and lodges: private travel & conservation club. If you are not yet a member, see how to JOIN below this story.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Passionate about Africa; Shirli’s energy, life, spirit and career revolve around the continent and its wildlife. Shirli cut her teeth in the world of advertising after art school, realising her forte was in the raw design field – added to this her love for wildlife and travel – she established her own design company called JADEWORKS, which has made a name for itself in the safari and tourism industry.

Photography was a natural evolution, and the more she experimented, the more she was captivated by the medium – the collaboration of design, travel and vision was initiated through the name of AFRICAALIVE.

She has travelled extensively in Africa and recently co-authored a photographic coffee table book called Africa’s Ultimate Safaris, in addition to becoming a co-owner and founder of THE WILDSIDE SAFARI COMPANY, an exciting new travel venture.

Mr President: Selling wild-caught baby elephants to China is just plain evil

Elephant calf mistreated after capture in Zimbabwe
Footage from the capture of the elephants in Zimbabwe © The Guardian
Opinion post: Written by Simon Espley, CEO of Africa Geographic

AN OPEN LETTER TO THE PRESIDENT OF ZIMBABWE – EMMERSON MNANGAGWA

Attention: Your Excellency Emmerson Mnangagwa, president of Zimbabwe

As another shipment of wild-caught baby elephants from Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe jets out of Victoria Falls airport on Ethiopian Airlines to zoos and private collections in China, it’s surely time to call this for what it is: Just plain evil.

This is not a conservation or ‘sustainable utilisation’ issue – the removal of this quantity of elephants will certainly not impact significantly on wild elephant populations, or alleviate the claimed pressure from ‘too many’ elephants on vegetation in Hwange. This is also not about what is permissible under CITES regulations.

No, this is quite simply about people in positions of authority abusing their power to do each other favours. This is about return favours between high-level people in Zimbabwe and China – “you approve this transaction and I will throw in a few baby elephants for your entertainment” sort of thing. These baby elephants are trinkets on the arms of people who do not care about brand Zimbabwe or the dignity or well-being of individual creatures.

If you are not well-advised on how elephants fare in zoos, this quote is from Peter Stroud, the former curator of the Melbourne Zoo from 1998-2003, who was involved in sourcing elephants from Thailand:

“There is now abundant evidence that elephants do not and cannot thrive in zoos,” Stroud says. “Young elephants will never develop naturally as socially and ecologically functioning beings in zoos. They will face a very long and very slow process of mental and physiological breakdown resulting inevitably in chronic physical and mental abnormality, disease and premature death.

Moving aside from the moral issue, does it make business sense to endanger your tourism industry, just to keep this barbaric practice going? Zimbabwe is a beautiful and diverse country, with good wildlife populations, fantastic lodges and warm, welcoming people. If you have any doubt about how the world of safari-goers feels about this practice of selling baby elephants to zoos, why not ask them? Use social media to reach out – and ask them. Then get clever people to quantify the negative response into likely ongoing loss of tourism business. You decide if the cost is worth the supposed benefit.

If hugely important commercial and political agreements between Zimbabwe and China are dependent on baby elephants being tossed in as by-products, then perhaps you need to ask yourself just how serious China is about Zimbabwe in the first place.

Mr President, your recent rise to power provides a unique opportunity to rid Zimbabwe of this cancer – this morally bankrupt notion that everything is for sale – even baby elephants. Perhaps it’s time to give this issue your attention, and to take action? Zimbabwe’s tourism industry would certainly benefit if you took action and drew a line in the sand. Please, Mr President.

Niassa suffers forest loss, but able to support elephants and lions

Niassa National Reserve, aerial view
© Jean-Baptiste Deffontaines

The vast and remote Niassa National Reserve in northern Mozambique is a sprawling mass of miombo woodland, savannah, granite inselbergs, wetlands, river floodplains and riverine forest. Despite its remote location, the hand of man impacts heavily on this wilderness.

A recent study by James R Allan et al, published in the PARKS Journal, found that some 108 km² of forest has been destroyed between 2001 and 2014, which is almost 1% of the 42,000 km² protected area. The reserve has also suffered at the hands of commercial poaching, with elephant populations plummeting by more than 70%. In 2012 there were 12,000 elephants; in 2016 only 3,500 remained.

Most encouragingly, the report suggests that Niassa still has the potential to support tens of thousands of elephants and 1,000 lions, as the vast majority of the ecosystem is intact.

Lions in Niassa National Reserve
© Jean-Baptiste Deffontaines

The 1% loss of forest within the reserve over the 14-year study period is lower than losses in neighbouring regions (2%) and the two northern Mozambique provinces (5.7%) during the same period. Most of the losses occurred due to agriculture and settlement along roads.

Although forest loss is always a source of concern, the relatively low percentage loss in this instance is good news in the broader African context, where forest loss is five times the global average. The authors report that Niassa’s protected area status has helped save it from large-scale land clearing that has plagued outside areas, despite the fact that that forest governance in Mozambique is generally weak.

Niassa National Reserve is Mozambique’s largest protected area, spanning 42,000 square kilometres, and is home to approximately 40,000 people legally living in 40 villages within its boundaries. These isolated people have no access to jobs and have historically eked out a subsistence lifestyle from the bush. They fish, gather honey and hunt for bushmeat, skins and ivory. They also grow tobacco and food crops, which are raided daily by wild animals. Villagers are frequently attacked and sometimes killed, by crocodiles, hippos, elephants and lions.

Niassa National Reserve, aerial view
© Jean-Baptiste Deffontaines

The study found that the reserve’s diverse miombo woodland habitat is still intact, and with proper investment in best practice management could support large assemblages of megafauna. Though rampant poaching has impacted wildlife – particularly elephants – residual wildlife populations could recolonise.

Other threats to Niassa include artisanal mining, land-use change, bushmeat poaching, commercial poaching, wildfires, climate change, and selective logging.

The authors say that given the potentially substantial benefits to biodiversity conservation and broader societal goals, investing in the effective management of Niassa should be a global conservation priority. There are very few places remaining on the planet that can hold populations of large wildlife in the tens of thousands, and Niassa Reserve, with its connection to Selous Game Reserve in southern Tanzania, is one of these places.

The full report: PARKS Journal, James R. Allan, Falk Grossmann, Rob Craig, Alastair Nelson, Joseph Maina, Kathleen Flower, James Bampton, Jean-BapƟste Deffontaines, Cornelio Miguel, Baldeu Araquechande and James E.M. Watson: “Patterns of forest loss in one of Africa’s last remaining wilderness areas: Niassa National Reserve

Niassa deforestation, Niassa National Reserve
© James Allen

Federal Court invalidates decision for trophy imports to US

African elephant, trophy hunting, USA

Sourced from third-party site: The Humane Society (USA)

On December 22, 2017, the U.S. Court of Appeals for the DC Circuit upheld the conservation mandate of the Endangered Species Act, supporting the need to rigorously analyse applications to import hunting trophies of species threatened with extinction.

This federal court order, coming only weeks after President Trump tweeted that he was reconsidering the agency’s decision to allow imports of elephant and lion trophies from Zimbabwe and Zambia, means that those recent decisions by the agency are invalid.

Anna Frostic, managing attorney for wildlife litigation for The Humane Society of the United States, said, “The federal government must carefully consider the science demonstrating that trophy hunting negatively impacts the conservation of imperilled species. We strongly urge the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to take immediate action to rescind its unlawful decisions to liberalise elephant and lion trophy imports.”

The Court also held that the agency must take public comment on any blanket decisions to allow or prohibit trophy imports based on individual countries management plans.

China’s ban on domestic ivory sales now in effect

Ivory, tusks, for sale
© The Citizen

Sourced from third-party site: The Citizen

China’s complete ban on ivory trade went into effect Sunday, officials said, a major step forward in Beijing’s efforts to rein in what was once the world’s largest market for illegal ivory.

“From today… the buying and selling of elephant ivory and goods by any market, shop or vendor is against the law!” the forestry ministry said on its official account on Chinese social media platform Weibo.

“From now on, if a merchant tells you ‘this is a state-approved ivory dealer’… he is duping you and knowingly violating the law.”

The ministry added that the ban also applied to online sales and souvenirs purchased abroad. According to the Xinhua state news agency, a partial ban had already resulted in an 80% decline in seizures of ivory entering China. Domestic prices for raw ivory are down 65%, it said.

The total domestic ban was announced at the end of last year. By this March, Xinhua reported, 67 factories and shops involved in China’s ivory trade had closed. The remaining 105 were expected to close Sunday.

China had previously banned imports of all ivory and ivory products acquired before 1975, after pressure to restrict a trade that sees thousands of elephants slaughtered every year.

African ivory is highly sought after in China, where it is seen as a status symbol, and used to fetch as much as $1,100 a kilogram. Poaching in Africa has seen the elephant population fall by 110,000 over the last 10 years to just 415,000, according to the International Union for Conservation of Nature.

Despite an overall fall in poaching, Africa’s elephant population has declined in part because of continued illegal killing, said a report this year by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species.

Opinion: Hunting’s threat to conservation

Lion hunting, Photo for illustrative purposes only
Photo of a lion hunt for illustrative purposes only
Opinion post: Written by Steve Wiggins and Chris Mercer

Peter Flack’s (“South African lawyer, business man and hunter”) recent piece in the Daily Maverick, titled “It is canned killing, not hunting, that hampers conservation efforts” (17 December 2017) offers a hunter’s perceived threats to conservation in South Africa (and beyond):

1. Canned hunting;
2. hybrid breeding of target species; and
3. the animal rights movement.

Dealing with those claims seriatim:

Canned hunting

How can ‘canned’ possibly be a major threat to conservation on the basis advanced by Flack; namely, the absence of fair chase – where in theory, the hunter’s quarry has a (limited) chance to evade its own unnatural death? What on Earth does fair chase have to do with conservation? Whether a target is fairly chased or not, it still bleeds and dies and is removed from the environment. On the contrary, there is an argument that the canned hunting of captive-bred lions causes less damage to lion conservation in one respect than hunting wild lions, with all the damage the latter causes to pride dynamics. I am not hereby endorsing the hunting of wild lions – rather I am pointing out the shortfalls in Flack’s logic.

No, the real objection that Flack has to canned hunting is that it is a reputational threat to the existence, “good reputation” [sic] and profitability of the whole hunting industry. He fears that the increasing public disgust ‘canned’ is causing is pulling down the whole trophy hunting industry with it.

We should not forget the negative conservation implications of ‘canned’ (the hunting and lion bone trade) due to its lack of any credible proven positive conservation contribution or conservation need.

There are no proven conservation benefits of ‘canned’ (‘captive’, ‘ranch’) – but quite the opposite, with the potential detrimental impact still to be adequately acknowledged and addressed by the Republic of South Africa’s Department: Environmental Affairs (DEA);

In their 29 November 2017 “Open letter to Secretary Zinke: The African Lion Conservation Community’s Response,” the need for any conservation (rewilding potential) from South Africa’s ‘canned’ industry was rejected.

Hybrid breeding

Indeed the cross-breeding of species to produce mutant freaks for the hunting industry merely underlines the threat that hunting poses to wildlife.

If the breeders will do anything to grasp at the almighty dollar then this supports our view that hunting is not about conservation at all, but is driven by commercial profiteering.

Animal rights

It is popular in hunting circles to blame ‘animal rightists’ for hunting’s shortcomings and to throw epithets like ‘radical, extremist, and a threat to conservation.’ But these labels assume that hunting is conservation. The animal welfare movement certainly damages the hunting industry, but whether it damages conservation depends on the proven truth of hunting’s animal welfare claims, and the falsity of hunting propaganda. The truth is always subversive of an entity built upon lies.

Accordingly, we would contend that the three major threats to conservation in Africa are:

1. The unrelenting growth of the human population is devouring the wilderness and causing massive habitat loss for wildlife.

2. The lamentable failure of African governments to devote available resources to protecting wilderness and existing wildlife populations.

3. The hunting industry. Not only does the hunting industry inflict massive damage upon wildlife populations in Africa, but by expanding its profitable business model of breeding wildlife species as alternative livestock, the industry is effectively changing the land-use from the serious business of producing food for the nation, to mere entertainment.

Is it really in the national interest that vast tracts of land which represent food security are being converted into providing hunting entertainment for a wealthy elite?

Compare the three items above that Flack contends are the major threats to conservation with our own. We doubt if there is a single conservation scientist in the world who would agree that the Flack list is defensible.

The assertion is made by Flack that the “1977” trophy hunting ban implementation in Kenya and Botswana’s move to ban trophy hunting in 2014 have been “manifest disasters” for wildlife because of the loss of trophy hunting’s claimed ‘benefits’ – an oft repeated pro-hunting mantra.

Scientists conducting a 2009 study (“Effects of human – livestock – wildlife interactions on habitat in an eastern Kenyan rangeland”) – they believe the surge in domestic livestock is predominantly accountable for the drop in Kenya’s wildlife population – the three main causes cited for the drop in wildlife numbers are illegal poaching, larger numbers and ranges of domestic livestock, plus changing land use patterns on the ranches. There is no mention of trophy hunting’s absence as a cause/effect for the decline in Kenya’s wildlife since the ban was implemented in 1979.

Is Kenya an example of what will happen if trophy hunting is banned in a country? No, it is not. Kenya would seem to be an example of poor land management, poaching and wanton over-grazing, based on a culture where a man’s wealth and social status is directly linked to owning large herds of cattle, which dominate the grazing available to the detriment of wildlife.

Botswana’s tourism figures surpassed 2 million in 2016, so clearly there is demand within Botswana for non-consumptive tourism (and long may it continue).

In support of his ‘hunting is a saviour’ arguments, Flack states “some simple, scientifically established facts” including the statement at point 5 of his article: “…those [endangered species] that had been hunted most assiduously had recovered best, for example … rhinoceroses …” So, the claim is hunting saved the rhinoceros (referring to ‘Operation Rhino’ in the 1960s no doubt) and by logical extension of this claim, “assiduously” hunting and killing endangered species is a guaranteed saviour.

However, it is also a ‘fact’ that unregulated and excessive hunting pre-‘Operation Rhino’ overwhelmingly contributed to the decimation and plight of rhinoceros in the first place:

South African populations of black and white rhinos (subspecies C. s. simum), both of which had been nearly extinct in the year 1900 due to uncontrolled hunting…” (Sustainable rhino horn production at the pointy end of the rhino horn trade debate,” Taylor et al., Biological Conservation: Vol. 216, page 60 – 68, December 2017).

So, any claims that hunting was the saviour of the rhinoceros as a ‘fact’ are somewhat disingenuous. Hence, any claims that “assiduously” hunting therefore must be endured as the saviour of all endangered species should be treated with incredulity.

A new generation of Kruger photographers

The Wild Shots Outreach programme began just over two years ago in November 2015. The programme aims to give students from disadvantaged communities that border the Greater Kruger National Park area in South Africa the opportunity to experience the wonder of the wild and immortalise moments through the lens of a camera. The majority of these students have never been to a national park or reserve before.

The programme is based in Hoedspruit, which allows the students to visit the famous Kruger National Park. Since its inception, 32 projects have been run, encompassing a total of 291 students.

This initiative is genuinely sensational, and Africa Geographic is proud to be able to showcase these students’ photos and thoughts of their experience.

CHEYEZA KHUMALO
Cheyeza is 16 years old. She attended a Wild Shots Outreach course in Selati Game Reserve as part of Selati’s “Bush Buddies” programme fostering links between Zivulo Senior School, a local government school, and Penryn College.
The lion is my favourite animal. It was so exciting to see one and take some photos. Africa’s wild places are the best places you can go to experience nature at its best. Wildlife photography is a thrilling experience. It makes you feel alive.

 

 

 

A lioness in the bush staring back at the camera
Photo credit: Cheyeza Khumalo © Wild Shots Outreach

BRIDGET MOKOERA
Bridget is 13 years old and attends Hoedspruit Hoerskool. This is a new government school serving Hoedspruit and the surrounding communities. Bridget and her Wild Shots Outreach group did their game drive in a wildlife estate near Hoedspruit.
I feel that conservation and our wild places are critical. I like taking photos because of the story behind each photograph.

Four birds gliding through the air
Photo credit: Bridget Mokoera © Wild Shots Outreach

DAN MAKUBELA
Dan is 13 years old. He attended a residential Wild Shots Outreach course for the children of staff from Tanda Tula Safari Camp in the Timbavati Game Reserve. Even though his father Erick works at the lodge, this was Dan’s first visit to a game reserve.
I feel very happy about my experience as it is the first time I have been. I enjoyed everything we did with the cameras – I can get good shots now. My favourite animal is the elephant. They have power and are tough.

Africa Geographic Travel
Leopard sitting on a rock looking at the camera
Photo credit: Dan Makubela © Wild Shots Outreach

Hands-on experience

The students experience a very practical, hands-on course, where they start with learning camera basics and how to use the controls. After that, they build up their knowledge with more advanced techniques and settings, such as learning about shutter and aperture priority. Once the course is complete, they set off into the wilderness to put their photographic knowledge and skills to the test.

FAITH KHOSA
Faith attends Southern Cross School in Hoedspruit, where the original pilot for the Wild Shots Outreach course was run. At 18 years old, her ambition is to be a lawyer specialising in conservation.
I feel like we are losing Africa’s wild places. The wilderness and the animals need saving. I like taking photographs because it helps people see things the way I see them. I loved learning about the camera beyond the auto button.

Leopard relaxing in the bush
Photo credit: Faith Khosa © Wild Shots Outreach

LUCKY RAPITSI
Lucky took part in the Wild Shots Outreach course in May 2016. Lucky, who is 26 years old, now works as a photojournalist at the local newspaper in Hoedspruit. He also assists with residential Wild Shots Outreach courses.
Wild Shots Outreach changed my life. I didn’t know how to operate a camera before, and I knew nothing about conservation. I have always had the ambition of educating the youth about what is happening around South Africa and through Wild Shots Outreach, I was able to realise my dream. From my experience, I now know that the animals we have are our heritage and that they will provide jobs for our youth in the future.

Photo of the inside of a cut off piece of rhino horn
Photo credit: Lucky Rapitsi © Wild Shots Outreach
Africa Geographic Travel

Positive experiences

Through the experience of the Wild Shots Outreach programme, the students can better appreciate and understand the value of wildlife and the wilderness of the national parks and reserves. Even though they live just a few kilometres from the Greater Kruger, many of them have never stepped inside the reserve nor seen a wild animal before going on the course. Just from looking at their photos and reading their comments, it is clear that the programme has had a positive impact on their lives.

PRINCES NYATHI
Princes is 12 years old. She took part in a residential Wild Shots Outreach course for the children of staff from Umlani Bush Camp in the Timbavati. Her mother works in the kitchen at the lodge, but Princes had never been on a game drive before her Wild Shots Outreach course. “Conservation is the best because it can keep our wild animals safe. I want to share my photographs because my friends have not seen wild animals.

Elephant having a dust bath
Photo credit: Princes Nyathi © Wild Shots Outreach

PROUD NDLOVU

Proud is a 16-year-old student in grade 11 at Phendulani High School, Acornhoek. This is the second year that a group from this school has taken the Wild Shots Outreach course.
Going on the game drive is a dream come true. It doesn’t happen to kids like us. I never liked conservation before as it was just a theory and we never had a chance to experience it. Now I am starting to understand conservation.

Three zebras in the bush
Photo credit: Proud Ndlovu © Wild Shots Outreach

RICKY TIBANE

Ricky is 15-years-old and in grade 10 at Pendulani High School, Acornhoek. His principal, Lorraine Kubayi is very keen for her learners to take the Wild Shots Outreach course. She feels that Wild Shots is developing confidence in her learners.
I enjoyed all the Wild Shots lessons. Rhinos are my favourite animals because they are one of the Big 5 and they bring tourists to our country. I like photography because it makes the animal to be well known and makes nature even more beautiful.

A herd of wildebeest
Photo credit: Ricky Tibane © Wild Shots Outreach

SARAH KHUMALO

At 17 years old, Sarah attended the Wild Shots Outreach course at NP Mathabela Secondary School in Greenvalley. This was the second year that Wild Shots have visited the school.
I enjoyed the game drive because I could admire the animals and see them with my own eyes. Africa has the best wild places, and they attract tourists to our country. More young people need to be aware of conservation so that more can be involved.

Small bird sitting on a branch
Photo credit: Sarah Khumalo © Wild Shots Outreach

Helping develop young aspirations

The programme helps to make students aware of their own unique abilities and that they have what it takes to acquire new skills and create stunning photos of wildlife and the natural world. By holding exhibitions and publishing their photographs, the students’ self-esteem and aspirations grow.

SIKHULILE NGWENYA

Sikhulile is 17 years old and in grade 11 at Frank Magkinyane High School, Ludlow.
I enjoyed taking pictures and using the camera properly, such as changing the ISO. I am really happy about conservation so long as the future generations get to see the wild animals. I wish many more children could do the Wild Shots Outreach course and explore their talent.

A bird soaring through the air
Photo credit: Sikhulile Ngwenya © Wild Shots Outreach

THAROLLO SHAI

Tharollo is 16 years old and took part in a Wild Shots Outreach course with her friends from Relebogile School in Namagale, near Phalaborwa. Sefapane Lodges and Safaris hosted the course.
I enjoyed learning to freeze the action most. I want a career in conservation when I finish school. I feel unhappy because some of our animals are living in unsafe places.

Two birds sitting in a tree and one flying through the air
Photo credit: Tharollo Shai © Wild Shots Outreach

VAN ROOY SONDLANE

Van Rooy is 26 years old and works as an art assistant with the Seeds of Light NGO. He was part of a group of young leaders from the Acornhoek community chosen for a specially designed Wild Shots Outreach course.
I want to use my photography to send out a message. All people must be aware of our wildlife and conservation. I am going to use photography in my art and my art teaching.

An impala jumping through the air
Photo credit: Van Rooy Sondlane © Wild Shots Outreach

VUSI MATHE

Vusi is 18 years old and took the Wild Shots Outreach course at Madizi High School. They did their game drive in Sabi Sands and were featured in a video made by Beautiful News. His group attended the Wild Shots Wildlife Photography conference in Cape Town in September 2017.
The best thing was the game drive, but I loved learning to use the camera. We have to conserve our wildlife for future generations. I want to work for Wild Shots one day.” 

A close up of an elephant.
Photo credit: Vusi Mathe © Wild Shots Outreach

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Mike Kendrick is the founder and director of Wild Shots Outreach. Mike is an experienced senior leader in education, teacher of Life Sciences and Photography, and outreach specialist. He has run 32 courses with 291 graduates since starting the programme in late 2015.
He is a published photographer at international and national level. Publications include Africa Geographic, Travel AfricaWanderlust, Hello magazine, Beeld and Wild magazine. He is the photographer of choice for NGOs such as Elephants Alive, Conservation Action Trust, Cheetah Outreach and Birdlife International SA and a photographic tutor for guide training agencies such as Bushwise.
Wild Shots Outreach recently won the SANParks Kudu Award for the best environmental education programme.

Opinion: Elephants damage only 1% of Hwange’s vegetation

Elephant in Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe
© joepyrek/Flickr
Opinion post: Written by Bryan Orford

The main motivation put forward for killing elephants in Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe is the argument that they destroy the plants, and this is accepted by many as a problem. Let’s discuss whether this argument has any validity, and whether this argument for culling is really more about sourcing more ivory for the ivory trade, or to justify higher quotas for nearby hunting areas.

Actual damaged areas – waterholes

Let us look at the argument that pumped waterholes or permanent water is stimulating elephant damage of Hwange’s vegetation in a ‘catastrophic’ manner, and that it is a man-made problem that now needs a man-made solution, and that culling is a necessity.

In Hwange there are a variety of habitats and vegetation types, with only a limited number of waterholes. In the dry season the elephants are normally found drinking at these, so there are huge areas of the park at this time with no elephants. So even if damage was done to areas with pumped water, the other areas have no problem.

Now let us look at the areas with pumped water. Some open areas near water are vlei lines, or calcrete soils, which would have few trees in any case – with pumped water or not, and with elephants or none. So one should not confuse these open areas with elephant damage. Now even if you do have elephant damage around a waterhole there can be benefits to grazing animals as grass grows better in open areas. Research in Hwange has found that soils near waterholes are heavily fertilised by elephants, and this benefits many smaller and unnoticed plants in the rainy season.

Normally a pan has a natural open area that has few trees, and only at a certain distance from there will you get the tree line. Damage to the tree line is dependent on the species, depth of soil and distance from the pan, but if you come back in say, 10 years, you will see almost the same picture you saw before.

Elephants drinking from waterhole in Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe
© joepyrek/Flickr

So if we work on an average of 100 metres we can try and work out the zone of realistic damage, if there is any. In reality it would be a ring as there are few trees naturally occurring by the waterholes. In some cases if there is a vlei, the tree line may be so far that tree damage is not even an issue.

In some places, trees like camelthorns, mopanes and the combretum families can be heavily pruned, but seem to survive anyway – although to the uneducated person it might look bad.

So for just the rough calculations on the 14,600 sq km park, I will use 75 waterholes as an example, many of which have no tree damage.

Assuming a ring of 100m around each waterhole, this equates to an area of roughly 7,800 square meters for each waterhole. Times this by 75 we get 585,000 square meters (or 0.585 sq km). This equates to a very small figure of potential elephant damage. Even if we double that to one square kilometre, this equates to roughly 0.0068% of the park that might suffer tree damage from elephants.

So, to be sure you understand my calculation and logic, less than 1% of Hwange vegetation has been potentially damaged by elephants. And there are questions as to whether this is in fact damage, as there are benefits to the ecology of having highly trampled and impacted areas.

Endemic plants

Looking at the number of plant species stretching from Hwange up to the Victoria Falls, the last number I got was 1,334 species. Even the best botanist and guides know only a small portion of these, and you will notice much of the research on elephant damage is concentrated only on a couple of species of trees that are not even endangered inside or outside of Hwange. No one pays attention to the ecology of many of these other plants.

Someone might argue that there is a possibility that some plants might be endangered and that elephants are a threat to them. Well, let us look at endemic plants in the area (some may just be subspecies). These include Aristida brainii, Danthiopsis petiolata, Euphorbia fortissima, and Jamesbrittenia zambesica, all in the rocky gorges below Victoria Falls, far away from Hwange and in an area unlikely to be impacted by elephants.

There is a grass called Eragrostis glischra that is found in mopane woodland, rocky places and Kalahari sand in the north and west of Zimbabwe, and possibly in Hwange. Elephants are not a problem for this grass, and its range extends well out of the park and into areas closer towards Kariba. So we can see there are no endemic plants threatened by elephant numbers in Hwange and up to the Zambezi.

Elephant herd in Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe
© joepyrek/Flickr
Biased research

Bearing in mind that elephants are large animals and many people who visit the park are not used to the sort of damage present in all bushveld ecosystems – they being more used to manicured gardens in their neighbourhoods. So broken / fallen trees and heavily pruned bushes can be a shock and appear to be a bigger problem than they really are. Most studies on elephant damage have concentrated on big tree species such as teak, mopane, combretums, marula and a few other trees near waterholes.

The damage measured is normally only measured close to waterholes and little work done miles away.

I still remember helping Zimparks years ago on a project which was basically titled “Elephant damage on teak trees”. Before the research was started the assumption had been made that the elephants were causing damage to the teak forests, and the research was intended to prove this. One soon saw that they did very little damage, and did not seem to favour these trees for food. So the elephants had a bad rap and the research was launched on a false assumption!

Some researchers have noted little change in the vegetation since the 1960s in Hwange and some areas seem to be more wooded than before. The elephant impact on trees helps stop bush fire damage, fertilises the soil, and spreads seeds etc. – so tree impact has its ecological benefits. A good example is the spread of camelthorn trees and ilala palms. A very interesting example of seed dispersal is a large albida tree at Ngamo, no doubt brought there from 20 plus or so kilometres away by elephants and the seeds germinating in elephant dung.

Conclusion

So in conclusion, in my opinion, elephants are not a problem for Hwange’s vegetation and this should not be used as an excuse for any culling in the park. I would also encourage those who visit Hwange to go not only in the dry season to see how well the areas around the waterholes recover during the rains, as dry season visits can give an unrealistic desert experience, in which the casual visitor can get a distorted view of the real situation on the ground.

I believe all those who push for the culling of elephants in Hwange should be punished with a 24-hour game count in February or in the rainy season and in their report list all the small plant species that are around the waterhole. Hopefully, they won’t die of boredom or sleep due to there being no elephants around at that time of year!

Two elephants in Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe
© joepyrek/Flickr

Wild dogs vote with sneezes

African wild dog
© Dr Andrew King, Swansea University

Research has revealed that the decision by a group of African wild dogs to get up from rest and hit the road to hunt as a collective pack is a democratic one, albeit with a twist. Votes are cast by way of sneezes.

Yes, those dogs that wish to participate in the vote do so by sneezing, and, just like in company meetings, once a certain number (quorum) of votes has been reached (sneezes made) the pack will obey the results of the vote and move on.

But that’s not all….

It appears that higher ranking members of the pack have to sneeze less often in order to achieve quorum.

So, for example, a high-ranking pack member may have to sneeze just three times to achieve the same result as a lower ranked member that may have to sneeze 10 times.

This is a form of democracy, modified to reflect rank. Persistent lower ranking dogs can achieve the desired results if they are persistent, and sneeze often enough. As such, the ‘will of the group’ may override dominant preferences when the consensus of subordinates is sufficiently great.

Wild dogs (Lycaon pictus) are among the most ruthless and efficient of hunters, achieving excellent success rates because of high levels of cooperation amongst pack members. They also have one of the most peaceful of pack dynamics, with a dominant (alpha) female and male governing reproduction and other pack members assisting to keep babies safe and fed.

African wild dog with prey
© Dr Andrew King, Swansea University

The use of voting mechanisms is seen in several other species, including meerkats, capuchin monkeys, and honeybees. The exhalation of air to communicate is also seen in dingoes and coyotes, but it appears that wild dogs are the only dogs to use ‘sneeze voting’ in decision making.

The research was conducted in Botswana’s Okavango Delta by Reena H. Walker and her colleagues from the Botswana Predator Conservation Trust, and the Universities of Swansea, UK, New South Wales, Australia and Brown University, US.

The full report: The Royal Society, Reena H. Walker, Andrew J. King, J. Weldon McNutt, Neil R. Jordan: “Sneeze to leave: African wild dogs (Lycaon pictus) use variable quorum thresholds facilitated by sneezes in collective decisions

Macro photography: Up close & personal

How often can you say that to take photographs of your subjects you have to lie down on the ground? Well, how else would you be able to get a ground-level perspective of the life of an ant, or peer in close to fully appreciate the form of a spider? Most people don’t. We walk past and step over these creatures without a second thought of the incredible and alien-like world all around us.

Macro photography is an essential part of wildlife photography, shining a spotlight on the smaller lifeforms that are not only essential to our ecosystem but, quite simply, are downright incredible to photograph! Whether a beginner or a seasoned professional, here are some tips and pointers to ensure that you get the best results from your macro photography.

Colours tend to be all the more vibrant and vivid when you get in closer to this African assassin bug © Sam Cox

SPEED
A good, sound rule: the smaller your subject is, the faster it will move. You can get away with low shutter speed for elephants, but with birds, you have to crank it up quite a bit more, and the same goes for the phenomenal insect kingdom.

Ants crawling across a tree branch might not seem fast at first, but when you get in close, your perspective changes and trying to capture one in sharp focus can be very tricky. Throw your lens in front of dragonflies, bees or grasshoppers, and again, you need to be quick with your reactions and have a very high shutter speed to freeze the moment. Of course, this requires a good amount of light, which takes us nicely to the next point…

A termite standing on a mound
Termites, a real challenge to photograph, but well worth the effort © Sam Cox
Africa Geographic Travel

LIGHT
Light is your best friend, though a simple spot of shade or wisp of cloud can dramatically alter your shot. Sunny days are ideal because insects tend to be more active in the heat, and you can maintain optimal camera settings.

However, always keep an eye out for incoming clouds and shadows – in particular, your own or of others that will cast a shadow over your subject. Flash rings are great for still life, but natural lighting for wildlife is infinitely preferred so as not to flatten your subject with an overabundance of a front-facing light source.

Clockwise from top left: 1) Aiming high on a bright sunny day; 2) Details and personality, even from something as seemingly insignificant as an ant, can change perspectives; 3) A dice moth caterpillar covered in sand and grit from a mornings’ travels © Sam Cox

FLEXIBILITY
Tripods or monopods are fantastic for stabilising your camera, but when it comes to wildlife, forget about it. You need to be flexible and quick! A butterfly isn’t going to sit waiting for you to adjust your tripod legs, so you need to practise holding your camera steady, getting into comfortable positions quickly and controlling your breathing. Composure, patience and plenty of practice is the trick.

A close up of a bee flying
Caught in flight © Sam Cox
Africa Geographic Travel

APERTURE
Most people, when starting macro photography, jump straight to their shallowest depth of field, an f2.8 or f1.4, but this is unnecessary and can become a hindrance. First and foremost, that shallow depth of field, when used so close, will often slice your subject into three sections with the plane of focus being minuscule.

You want to show off the subject in its entirety and not just a segment, so instead try an f8 or even an f16 to give a broader depth of field to your photography.
Your background is often so far away comparatively that it will remain nicely blurred, but it means you’ll get more of your subject in focus and allows more breathing room if it is moving. Of course, this once again links into the lighting of the scene: the lighter, the better.

Clockwise from top left: 1) A female golden orb spider devours her male, who says romance is dead?; 2) A nomadic ant marches to a dead end; 3) Crawling upwards with the morning rays streaking down; 4) A green pea spider beginning to stretch out amidst a morning chill © Sam Cox

PERSPECTIVE
This is the one crucial point that I’m adamant about getting across to any photographer I’m teaching macro to.

When photographing a lion, would you photograph it from above at a 45-degree angle? Of course not, you’d want to get in front of it and be as low as possible to give it a powerful and grandiose appearance – and the same applies here.

Shooting something from above can make it seem inferior, and this is the opposite of what we want to do. So getting down to ground- or eye-level is always preferential.

A sensational, intimate close up of a dragonfly
A sensational, intimate close-up of a dragonfly © Sam Cox

NOT JUST FOR WILDLIFE…
Macro photography, beyond wildlife, is a great way to explore and represent other subjects. Dewdrops clinging to spider webs, the texture of tree bark, or the vein structures of a backlit leaf can result in absolutely stunning photographs.

Commercially speaking, the details of a wedding dress or engravings on engagement rings are always better represented through the medium of macro, blurring out the unnecessary background and bringing out the artistry.

Whether you live out in the African bush or a bustling city, there are opportunities everywhere for interesting and versatile photographs. The great thing about today’s digital technology is that you don’t even need a special camera or lens to get involved – most cameras on phones have an impressive ability to focus on subjects up close and personal.

It’s all down to how you use it, but remember, by getting down and dirty, you’ll raise the love for all things often ignored. 

Dew drops on a spider's web
Dewdrops caught in a spider’s web, glinting in the morning sun © Sam Cox

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Sam Cox originally studied filmmaking, earning a BA Honours degree in filmmaking before moving his sights onto photography. Travelling to Africa since 1999, his passion for wildlife quickly drew him to focus on photographing the diverse wildlife the continent has to offer and has seen his images published online with National Geographic and Africa Geographic, with printed publications in Travel Africa Magazine and BBC Wildlife Magazine.
Wanting to put aside work photographing weddings and events in the UK for a life and career in Africa, he dipped his toes into the water by volunteering with African Impact in Zimbabwe and South Africa – using his camera skills to aid in conservation efforts. Since then, he has joined the team at African Impact in the Greater Kruger National Park as the Photography Coordinator, teaching wildlife photography to international volunteers while also contributing to conservation and local community-based projects.

Japan’s ivory market must close down, according to study

Ivory products for sale in Japan
Elephant ivory figurines, chopsticks and jewellery for sale in Japan © TRAFFIC

Japan’s poorly regulated domestic ivory market and efficient transnational criminal networks are among the factors driving the illegal export of ivory products to other countries. Due to this continued absence of effective regulation and law enforcement, two major conservation groups are calling for the closure of Japan’s domestic ivory market – in accordance with CITES.

In a report released on Wednesday by TRAFFIC and WWF, researches found that ivory products have become increasingly popular among antique and tourist markets where unregistered ivory is bought for illegal exports.

With China announcing that it would shut down all ivory trade by the end of this year, concerns have been raised that Japan’s failure to prevent illegal ivory exports will undermine China’s prospective ban and the efforts to end the global trafficking of elephant tusks.

Surveys were conducted in physical ivory markets, and physical and online auction platforms between May and September 2017, while antique dealers as buyers of privately owned ivory were also interviewed during the same period.

Between 2011 and 2016, a total of 2.42 tonnes of ivory was illegally exported from Japan, most of which was intercepted going to China.

Seized elephant ivory
Ivory tusks seized in a June 2017 case of illegal domestic trade of unregistered ivory tusks by an antiques dealer © Tokyo Metropolitan Police / TRAFFIC

The Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) bans the international trade in ivory to protect endangered African elephants and has called for the closure of domestic ivory markets in all member states.

Japan, however, says ivory products traded domestically were not acquired illegally. The government has approved a proposal this year to tighten registration requirements and inspections for more than 8,000 ivory retailers and manufacturers in the country. However, many campaigners feel that this is inadequate and that stricter measures should be put in place.

“Our findings show that without doubt, Japan’s largely unregulated domestic ivory market is contributing to illegal trade – a condition considered by Parties to CITES to warrant much stricter regulation and even the closure of the market,” said Tomomi Kitade, one of the authors of the report.

“It is imperative that Japan’s role within international illegal ivory trade be recognised, and urgent steps are taken to address the on-going illegal export and the regulatory gaps that are facilitating such criminal activity,” he added.

Online sites, such as Yahoo! Japan, are one of the major contributors in the purchasing of worked ivory products, with a recent seizure made by China’s Customs authority in 2016 involving 1,639 pieces of worked ivory and carved tusks.

With this substantial evidence, the report has urged the Japanese government to raise public awareness about the controls on illegal ivory and to tighten up on the controls at customs to prevent items such as ivory hanko stamps and figurines from leaving the country. It goes on to say that with China shutting down its legal ivory trade on 31st December, Japan and other key countries should follow suit.

Harmless aardwolf killed: The need for education

Deceased aardwolf in the Maasai Steppe, Kenya
This aardwolf was killed after being mistaken for a striped hyena © Stephanie Fuchs

Comment from the editors: For the Maasai people, cattle are considered extremely valuable and form an intrinsic part of their daily lives. Their cattle are at the centre of everything, providing them with food and materials, as well as playing an important role in their rituals and representing their wealth and status. For those of us living in urban areas, it is important to understand the Maasai culture, where the need to protect and care for their cattle is paramount. Stephanie, who is married to a Maasai warrior, recently shared with us her own unique insight and thoughts about how the Maasai protect their cattle. In this post she tells us about the problems these rural farmers face with predators that kill their cattle:

Maasai steppe landscape, wildlife
The calves were killed where the photograph was taken, while the burrow of the suspected hyena was not too far away (where the Maasai warrior is standing) © Stephanie Fuchs
Written by Stephanie Fuchs

I have lived with the Maasai now for six years and have in that time witnessed several incidents of human-animal conflict.

Most of the time it is lone hyenas that break into the goat pen at night and kill and injure at random. They did so at our boma in January 2016 – two sheep were half-eaten and two others injured so badly that we had to put them out of their misery. A third sheep got away with just a bitten tail.

On another occasion, we had a leopard kill livestock, and just recently what is believed to be wild dogs attacked several goats while they were out browsing in the afternoon. And on the morning of November 19th, 2017, my husband woke me with news of two calves having been eaten by hyenas the night before at our local waterhole.

I am recounting here what I have gathered happened on that evening, after questioning my husband and other Maasai and after visiting the site.

I was told that two hyenas killed two calves that were separated from their herd while out grazing in the afternoon. A farmer who lives close to the waterhole heard the cattle scream and alerted a Maasai warrior by phone about the attack by what he thought to be hyenas. Two warriors came running, but by the time they got to the scene, the calves were dead. They heard two hyenas calling from a distance and what they believed to be a third hyena that took flight as they approached. When they gave chase, the animal fled into a nearby burrow.

The Maasai warriors, being fiercely protective of their cattle and not willing to let what they thought had killed their livelihood go unharmed, started digging up the burrow. They dug until the early hours of the morning and eventually, the animal (thought to be a hyena) fled from the safety of the burrow – and was unfortunately killed.

Aardwolf burrow, Maasai steppe landscape, wildlife
The burrow was dug up by the warriors who were after what they believed it to be a striped hyena © Stephanie Fuchs

On being shown the scene and dead animal, I confirmed that the warriors had not killed a hyena, but an aardwolf.

To the untrained eye aardwolfs and hyenas may look similar, and yet aardwolfs are insectivorous and not capable of killing cattle – they don’t have the right jaw structure for the job. The regrettable truth is that this aardwolf was killed for a crime it did not commit.

This unfortunate incident shines a light on the fact that rural communities living amongst wildlife require wildlife education. The Maasai frequently encounter wildlife while herding their livestock and have in this way attained a traditional knowledge about it. An animal like the aardwolf, however, shy and nocturnal as it is, will not have often crossed paths with them, and if it did, it would have been mistaken – as in this incident – for a striped hyena. They have no means of knowing that an animal so similar in looks to one that frequently kills their livestock, only eats termites.

The world of the Maasai is changing at an alarming rate and with this they have come to understand that there is a need to adapt. Some of their traditions are these days left behind, yet others are harder to let go of. From my observations, I gather that there is confusion over what to hold on to and what to let go.

Retaliation for the loss of a goat or cow is ingrained in their culture – and yet I believe that their attitude towards wildlife is changing. They see that wildlife has become rare, as have attacks on their animals, and they are now shifting towards wanting to protect what is left.

I try whenever I can to influence them towards taking better care of their land and all living things within it. This is why I have created a campaign where I aim to educate a Maasai community in Tanzania about conservation and land management to inspire them to look after their land. By doing so, I hope to help them preserve their culture and the wilderness they live in.

To achieve these goals, I would like for four Maasai from our village (two chosen by me and two by the village) and myself to be trained in land management and sustainable grazing at the Mara Training Centre in Kenya. Any donation to our campaign will help us to get one step closer to achieve this goal.

Showing the difference between an aardwolf and striped hyena
An aardwolf (left) and a striped hyena (right) © Dominik Käuferle / Shamshad Alam

Pangolin trafficking: Research reveals new routes

African pangolin
Known as the world’s most trafficked mammal, all eight (four Asian and four African) species of pangolins are prohibited from international trade under CITES © Christian Boix

A recent study has revealed that pangolin smugglers are constantly opening up new global trade routes every year to avoid law enforcement agencies.

In light of the recent, world’s largest, pangolin seizure where 11.9 tonnes of scales were confiscated from a ship in Shenzhen, China, the new research highlights the challenge of tackling the trade of the world’s most trafficked mammal.

Released by the wildlife trade monitoring group TRAFFIC and IUCN on Friday, the comprehensive analysis reveals that an average of 20 tonnes of pangolins and their parts have been trafficked internationally every year, with the smugglers using 27 new routes for their illegal trade every year. Smuggling networks have become highly mobile and adaptable to shifting and creating new routes.

All eight pangolin species (four Asian and four African) are prohibited from international trade under CITES. However, this has not stopped the poaching of this mammal where, between 2010 and 2015, a combined minimum of 120 tonnes of whole pangolins, parts and scales were confiscated by law enforcement agencies involved with cross-border seizures.

“This paints a grave picture of a phenomenal quantity of pangolins being trafficked and very nimble traffickers who adapt fast, likely in response to enforcement actions,” said Kanitha Krishnasamy, Acting Regional Director for TRAFFIC in Southeast Asia. “It shows traders are indiscriminate about the new routes they choose and any legitimate means of transport is fair game for them to exploit.”

The findings show that 67 countries/territories were implicated with the recorded 1,270 cross-border pangolin seizures.

African pangolin
The report urges all implicated countries to review laws and increase vigilance of pangolin trafficking © Christian Boix

China was the most common destination in terms of large-quantity shipments of pangolin scales while whole pangolins were mostly traded within Asia, with Indonesia seizing the largest volume during the six-year period of the analysis. Minor shipments of pangolin body parts mainly went to the U.S., however, the quantities entering the U.S. were not comparable to the massive shipments trafficked through Africa and Asia.

“This report highlights again the alarming global nature of trafficking in pangolins and their parts, and is particularly concerning because it shows that trafficking takes place through highly mobile networks that use shifting trade routes,” says Daniel Challender, Chair of the IUCN SSC Pangolin Specialist Group and an author of the report. “Concerted action is needed along the entire trafficking routes identified to ensure illegal trade no longer poses a threat to pangolin populations.”

The report urged all countries implicated to review laws and increase vigilance of pangolin trafficking, in particular those countries with low numbers of seizures, but implicated in many trafficking incidents.

The full report: TRAFFIC, S. Heinrich, T. A. Wittman, J. V. Ross, C. R. Shepherd, D. W.S. Challender, P. Cassey: “The global trafficking of pangolins: A comprehensive summary of seizures and trafficking routes from 2010–2015”

Riding in lion country

Equestrian types tend to come with a few traits that, while charming to fellow horsey folk, are unbearably irritating to those not of a horsey nature. One such quirk is the devout belief that having ridden one way, you probably know – better than most – how to ride another. We also have an unwavering belief that we know exactly what to expect from most types of rides, regardless of whether or not we’ve participated.

Indeed, that was the case for me. I’ve ridden since the age of two when I was plonked onto the back of an obliging Shetland pony. Since then I’ve ridden eventers, dressage divas, highly-strung showjumpers, focused polo ponies, and wild ex-racehorses. So, when the opportunity arose to go on a horse safari in Botswana, I knew exactly what to expect (not because I’d ever done one before of course, but because I’m a horse person).

A group of people riding on horseback
Riding deep into lion country in the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park in Botswana © Roger Turski

I thought we’d be riding around safe game only – meerkats would probably be the only carnivores we’d encounter; the horses would be dead to the leg, gone to the world, and know exactly where to walk, where to stop, and where to trot (if indeed such speed was allowed). I also knew jolly well that this was to be a glorified trail ride – a bit boring perhaps, but an excellent opportunity for those all-important insta-snaps and an experience to supplement future conversations.

Or, so I thought.

Being a horse person, I insisted on taking my own gear: a lightweight ventilated helmet, jods, chaps, riding boots, gloves, and even a GoPro. My husband (himself a very experienced safari-goer and former guide) raised his eyebrows further north with each pristine piece of clothing I produced and folded carefully into my canvas bag. I should point out at this stage that our luggage allowance was minimal, but he knows better than to argue with a horse person. I could not have felt more ready for my impending horseback safari… I was not ready.

Watching lions from a safari vehicle
Here be lions, which adds a degree of edge to your horse ride! © Uncharted Africa

The evening before my ride we went on a game drive through Botswana’s Makgadikgadi salt pans, and amongst the abundance of wildlife we saw lions. As we sat and watched the sun set behind a huge male, his lady friend began to call.

“She’s calling to her mother,” our guide explained.

“Where is her mother?” I asked.

“Somewhere on the other side of the pans,” came the relaxed response as we watched the golden cat slink off towards the pans.

As we pulled up for our evening drinks a short while later, our guide checked carefully that neither lion was tucked behind the foliage nearby before releasing us from the vehicle. Still, in the haze of wine and excited lion chatter, we thought little more of it.

Sitting on horseback watching the sunrise
Setting off on the day’s horse safari at dawn © Stephen Stockhall and Dean Fitzpatrick

Horse safari day dawned with the pastel-infused skies that only Botswana can produce. We were travelling with our young daughter, so lengthy rides were off the table for me; I’d signed up instead for a sunset ride that evening.

We spent the morning on another drive, during which we enquired about the whereabouts of the lions we’d seen the previous night. Our guide wasn’t sure exactly where they were since they’re nocturnal and had moved overnight, but there was plenty more wildlife for us to see – happy hours were spent watching elephants feed on and destroy the trees at the edges of the pans.

Aren’t there lions out here?

When the time came for my ride, we were driven through an electric gate and up a drive to where the horses lived. I saw a smile play on the lips of the horse guide as he watched me hop from the 4×4 vehicle, GoPro strapped to the top of my helmet like evolution’s most dastardly attempt at an antenna.

Consummately professional though, he greeted me without so much as a snigger, and introduced me to my mount – a chestnut named Socks.

Woman sitting on a horse preparing for a ride
My trusty steed for the journey – Socks the chestnut © Pru Allison

I felt rather smug to see that Socks looked every inch the trail horse, standing calmly as his girth was tightened, and not batting an eye at the strange contraption protruding from my head. I was busy congratulating myself on my correct intuitions about the ride when I realised that my guide, Levius, was heading for the gate through which we’d driven.

Without a moment’s hesitation, he rode into the park where we’d watched lions the night before, and where that very morning, our guide had been unable to confirm their location. I’d imagined a sedate amble behind the safety of the game fence, and now here we were, riding straight into lion country.

Suddenly, aware that I genuinely had no idea what to expect from the ride, I noticed a chunk missing from Socks’ ear; as we rode deeper into the reserve, it began to look increasingly jaw-shaped.

“Aren’t there lions out here?” I eventually squeaked, hoping I didn’t sound too terrified.

“Yes, there are,” came the cool response. “That’s why I have my banger.”

I glanced down to Levius’ hip, attached to which was a small, almost gun-like contraption.

“It makes a loud firing noise that frightens lions away,” he reassured me. “But the horses know when there are lions. They smell them, and they won’t want to go that way.”

Riding through the grassy plains of Makgadikgadi
Riding through the grassy plains of Makgadikgadi with Levius, my guide © Pru Allison

I furtively scanned the horizon to ensure that we would spot the big cats with plenty of time for Levius’ banger to be deployed, should the need arise. If there were lions around, Socks had yet to smell them.

I’ve ridden many horses, and in my experience, most find plastic bags more terrifying than genuine danger. I desperately hoped that Socks’ intuition was more finely tuned. I felt confident that Levius had the faster mount, so if a lion did give chase dear old Socks and I were surely supper.

A lion standing in the grasslands
Looking out for lions in lion country © Pru Allison

Levius, it turned out, hailed from a small village in Botswana and now guides for a company called Ride Botswana who operate between the Uncharted Africa camps here in the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park, and routes through the Okavango Delta. He’d never been interested in horses until David Foot (the owner of Ride Botswana and safari guide) took him under his wing and taught him how to ride and how to guide. Still, he’s now every inch the horse person, with leather gaiters perfectly tailored to fit, and gloves that made me decide to upgrade my own.

To read more about the safari guide on horseback, continue reading below the advert 

Africa Geographic Travel

He’s also nothing that I’d expected a trail guide to be because he isn’t. He’s a safari guide who happens to do the job on horseback. There was none of the boredom I’d encountered on treks through the Welsh hills on family holidays. Levius loved his job, his horses, the area; he rode beautifully despite likening his style to that of a cowboy. His mount was a former racehorse intriguingly named Bon Jovi, and with plenty of spirit (horse person speak for ‘you’ll probably fall off’), but instead of pulling and hauling the thoroughbred, his hands remained soft and gentle – showing balance, kindness and confidence that many a more experienced rider lacks.

Riding on horseback across the salt pans
Levius, my guide, showed a rare breed of balance, kindness and confidence © Pru Allison

“Do you ever worry about lions coming for the horses during the night?” I queried, unable to shake the big cats from my mind.

“I sleep with my tent open so that I can hear,” he answered. “They are my babies, and I have to take care of them.”

Despite the dedicated care and commitment that Levius showers upon his steeds, he’ll admit to a close call where lions are concerned, telling me that he’d come out of his tent to check on the horses one night only to find a lion playing with a piece of tarpaulin. He assures me that his trusty banger did its job, seeing off the enormous cat, but it’s not an experience he’s keen to repeat.

People on horseback looking a large herd of zebra
Makgadikgadi plays host to the second largest zebra migration in the world, as thousands of zebras move into the area after the first summer rains to feed on sweet summer grasses © Roger Turski

“You know, we did see lions here last night,” I offered, concerned that he might not have realised they were in the area.

“Where were they?” he asked.

“Well, I’m not exactly sure, but one was under a palm tree,” I offered.

Levius’ face cracked almost open with a wicked grin as he gestured towards the landscape, which is punctuated every few metres by palm trees. It wasn’t, I suppose, a particularly helpful landmark to offer.

After some time riding through the grasslands, we came to the pans. The Makgadikgadi salt pans are the world’s most extensive salt pan system, and quite a sight to behold. Despite having ridden through the sea, river, woodland, countryside and much more, to ride across the pans was incomparable.

Riding across the Makgadikgadi Pans
Riding across the Makgadikgadi Pans – an incomparable experience © Garth Thompson

Animals, grassland and the moon

The vast, silent landscape could very well be likened to standing alone at the top of a ski slope and is almost exactly how I imagine it might be to stand on the surface of the moon. This was unlike any trail I’d ever ridden, and Levius dispelled my expectations once more by suggesting we pick up the pace. As we progressed through the horses’ gears, I saw Bon Jovi starting to get excited, but his gentle rider was unfazed, expertly guiding his mount instead of fighting him.

Socks, meanwhile, was also surprising me with his turn of speed and love of life, waiting for commands rather than merely following the horse in front, and offering a keenness rarely seen on trails and treks.

Riding across the grassy plains of the Makgadikgadi savannah
Riding across the grassy plains of the Makgadikgadi savannah © Stephen Stockhall and Dean Fitzpatrick

We reached the edge of the pans and slowed back to a walk as we proceeded through the grasslands; the guide and horses were fit enough to hit their strides straight away, while I did my best to conceal my lack of fitness. Taking pity on me, Levius paused alongside an aardvark hole, and kindly took his time to explain how they get utilised by a variety of different species.

Feeling fine, we continued through the grasslands, chatting as the sun began to sink through the sky, painting the horizon with strobes of orange and pink.

Through the splashes of colour and dust, we began to make out the shapes of wildebeest and zebra, making their way to congregate in the safety of the open for the night.

Above collage: Makgadikgadi attracts a variety of wildlife species, including elephants, leopards, brown hyenas, zebras and wildebeests (© Uncharted Africa)

We rode towards the animals, and I was waiting for them to scatter, but they didn’t, and before long, we were almost upon them.

“They don’t worry about the horses,” explained Levius. “We can get much closer to them like this than in a vehicle.” So we were able to spend time with both species, watching their interactions and dynamics. While they were aware of our presence, they didn’t seem to mind it one bit, and it felt a wonderfully unobtrusive way to be around them.

Eventually, with the light fading, we left this intriguing mixed herd who’d welcomed us to join them and turned back towards the camp, taking advantage of a dirt track along which we could enjoy a final canter, the horses even faster in the direction of home. In a flurry of hot African dust, we reached the game drive vehicle in which my husband and daughter sat, waiting to meet us with drinks and an array of snacks. The car seemed so cumbersome after my adventure with Socks.

“What would have happened if we’d met a lion?” I felt suddenly brave enough to ask, now that the vehicle was within hopping distance.

“I’d have stood in front of it until it went away,” explained Levius.

“What if it didn’t go away?” I pressed.

“Then I’d have stood there for a very long time,” he smiled.

Riding across the magnificent salt pans
Riding across the pans is as close as you’ll get to riding on the moon © Stephen Stockhall and Dean Fitzpatrick

The final horse straw

There remained one final question that I was reluctant to ask though, all too aware that when horses are business, the answer is rarely kind. “What happens to the horses when they can’t be used for safaris anymore?” I grudgingly enquired.

“They go to rest,” replies Levius, but he looked confused when my face fell. Understanding my dire assumption, my guide reassured me, “there’s a mare in Maun who’s in her thirties. She’s worked hard, so now she relaxes.”

My heart sang. I bade Socks farewell, seeing this brave, sweet horse in a new light as the horizon flashed its kaleidoscope of colours behind him. Gone was the trail horse I’d first imagined him to be. This Socks was brave, independent and capable of negotiating lion country with only a nicked ear.

To read more about the final leg of this horse riding safari, continue reading below the advert 

Africa Geographic Travel
A group of people riding on horseback across the salt pans
Riding back to camp, like a posse back from the wild west © Garth Thompson

As we watched Levius ride and lead the duo back to the safety of camp, I caught sight of a cat-shaped piece of gold in the distance.

“Lion!” I shrieked, at which my husband and our safari guide chortled in unison: “That’s a termite mound.”

I never did find out whether Socks’ ear was bitten by a lion, and I know that Levius would never have allowed such a thing to happen. Still, when I tell the story around dinner tables to fellow horse people, the ear was bitten fully off before brave Socks fought his way to freedom, or at the very least, a happy retirement in Maun.

As for the lions, I didn’t see them again, but I’m pretty darn sure that they were watching us for every step of the ride. 

Clockwise from left: Large baobabs characteristic of Makgadikgadi; A walking safari through the pans; Elephants at a waterhole during the rainy season (© Uncharted Africa)

Makgadikgadi Pans info

SIZE
Makgadikgadi Pans is a 16,000 km² network of natural salt pans and surrounding Kalahari Basin bushveld in Botswana. Together, these pans comprise one of the largest salt pan ecosystems in the world – with the Sowa, Nxai and Nwetwe pans being the largest individual pans.

The Makgadikgadi Pans National Park (3,900 km²) and Nxai Pan National Park (1,700 km²) together cover one-third of the Makgadikgadi Pans area. The two primary sources of seasonal water to the pans are the Boteti and Nata rivers.

HISTORY
The pans are the dried-up lake bed of the ancient Lake Makgadikgadi that once submerged the entire area. Human habitation is evident here since the early Stone age, and the area is rich in archaeological history, displaying tools and other remnants of early man.

Chapman’s Baobab, an iconic landmark of the Makgadikgadi landscape that has stood the test of time for nearly 4000 years, was made famous after a Makgadikgadi crossing by celebrated explored Dr David Livingstone in the 19th century. Unfortunately, the giant tree crashed to the ground on 7th January 2016 but is still regarded as an impressive sight. Other noteworthy icons are the rocky Kubu Island in Sua Pan and Baines baobabs in Nxai Pan.

FLORA
The salt pans themselves cannot support major plant life, and the only flora here is comprised of a very thin layer of blue-green algae. However, the dry salt pans are surrounded by salt marshes, grassland and shrubby savannah.

WILDLIFE
During the dry winter months, most wildlife will be found to the west of the Makgadikgadi Pans, near the Boteti River. After the first rains in November, the second largest zebra migration in Africa occurs as zebras and wildebeest move in an easterly direction, to the grassy areas north of the pans. Other large species found in the area include oryx, springbok, eland, red hartebeest, giraffes, elephants, lions, cheetahs, leopards, hyenas, white rhinos and wild dogs.

The pans attract large numbers of waterfowl when full of water, and are an essential habitat for one of only two breeding populations of greater flamingos in southern Africa.

Witnessing the largest migration of animals in Southern Africa © Uncharted Africa

SEASONS
Makgadikgadi sees a tremendous environmental and landscape change between the seasons. In the drier months, between April and November, the landscape is dry and arid with little life. During the rainy season, between November and March, the landscape is transformed into a thriving paradise for both flora and fauna.

TRAVEL

For accommodation options at the best prices visit our collection of camps and lodges: private travel & conservation club. If you are not yet a member, see how to JOIN below this story.

The pans themselves are only accessible in the drier months. This attraction alone makes the months between April and November a more popular time to travel. However, January through March is popular as well – to witness the second largest migration of animals in Africa on the grassy plains north of the pans.

Pru’s Makgadikgadi Pans Accommodation

Camp Kalahari is a traditional safari camp on the fringes of the Makgadikgadi Pans. It is designed in the old, Meru-style of safari camps reminiscent of the pioneer explorers of the African continent. The camp has ten of these spacious, luxurious tents and is the perfect place to relax, unwind and cool off after a day exploring the hot and sweltering pans.

Activities here include bushwalking with local Bushmen, a visit to the famously fallen Chapman’s Baobab, and safaris to witness the last-surviving migration of animals in southern Africa.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Originally from England, Pru Allison first completed a degree in theatre before furthering her studies in animal behaviour. This proved a winning combination for the spectacle of the natural world when love brought her to Africa and a new home in Cape Town.
She’s written for a range of magazines in a variety of countries, and wildlife highlights so far include sitting with baby brown hyenas in their den in Namibia, meeting giant tortoises in Seychelles, finding snow leopards in the Himalayas, and following wolves in India.
Pru has ridden horses since the age of two, and can currently be found scouring tack shops for a helmet small enough to fit her baby daughter so she too can saddle up. You can follow her on her Instagram account.

New hunting association formed after outcry over captive-bred lion hunting

hunting, rifle, wildilfe

Sourced from third-party site: News24, written by Simon Bloch

A new association, representing the interests of professional hunters opposed to hunting captive-bred lions, has been formed in South Africa.

Former Professional Hunters’ Association of South Africa (Phasa) president Stewart Dorrington was elected as the body’s first chairperson.

Dorrington told News24 the mandate of the Custodians of Professional Hunting and Conservation South Africa (CPHCSA) was to “promote only ethical and responsible conservation-based hunting principles, such as hunting only under fair chase conditions”.

The formation of the new body followed an urgent meeting in Johannesburg on Wednesday, attended by some of the top guns in South African hunting circles.

It comes less than two weeks after constitutional and policy changes of PHASA (Professional Hunters’ Association of South Africa) sent shock waves throughout the industry.

At its annual general meeting, PHASA members voted to reverse the body’s 2015 resolution and policy, which opposed promoting the hunting of captive-raised lions.

Following the decision, PHASA members, including seven past presidents, resigned en masse, with sponsors and internationally-recognised hunting organisations voicing their strong disapproval.

Several affiliate hunting bodies, including the Operators and Professional Hunting Associations of South Africa, the Namibia Professional Hunting Association, Boone and Crockett Club, and the Nordic Safari Club, immediately stripped PHASA of its membership status on the continent and abroad.

There had also been a growing number of outfitters and professional hunters who have brought the South African hunting industry into disrepute.

“The decision to form the CPHCSA was necessitated by PHASA’s unpopular decision last month. Fellow neighbouring countries’ associations, sponsors and many PHASA members voiced their disgust and condemnation of this inexplicable action,” Dorrington said.

“The launch of CPHCSA breathes new life into professional hunting and conservation, and we aim to restore the integrity of the vast majority of South African professional hunters,” he added.

Safari tips: safety and wild animals

Safari tips Tourists approaching a wild bull elephant at a campsite near Ngorongoro crater
Example of bad behaviour by tourists. © Yathin Krishnappa/WikiCommons

Going on a safari in Africa means that you will encounter wild animals at some stage. Some of these animals will be dangerous, and all deserve your respect.

Here are 10 essential safari tips about wild animals to keep in mind:

1) They are wild! These are not tame theme park animals, or Disney channel characters. Even a small doe-eyed antelope or cute warthog can and will attack you if it feels threatened;

2) Most safari camps are unfenced and dangerous animals can (and do!) wander through the grounds, particularly at night;

3) Please listen to advice from camp staff and guides, and strictly adhere to safety precautions;

4) Don’t go wandering off on your own without a guide. Even walking to your room at night can be dangerous. Elephants and buffaloes are impossible to see after dark, even a few metres away. Don’t leave your room at night and avoid walking along river banks (crocodiles and hippos kill many people every year);

5) Observe animals silently and with a minimum of disturbance to their natural activities. Talking loudly and standing up on game drive vehicles can frighten the animals away, or even trigger an attack;

6) Never attempt to attract an animal’s attention. Don’t imitate animal sounds, clap your hands, pound the vehicle or throw objects. Please respect your guide’s judgement about proximity to predators and large animals like elephants. A vehicle driven too close can hinder a hunt or cause animals to abandon a hard-earned meal. It can also trigger a charge;

7) Litter tossed on the ground, in addition to being unsightly, can choke or poison animals and birds;

8) Never attempt to feed or approach any wild animal on foot. Lodges and campsites will suffer the consequences of your actions, as these animals then become accustomed to humans – leading to danger for all involved;

9) Refrain from smoking on game drives. The dry African bush ignites very easily, and a flash fire can kill animals and destroy vast areas of grazing;

10) Be especially wary of leaving young children unattended while on safari. Noisy children not only irritate other guests, but they also attract predators like leopards because their vocalisations sound like distress calls from prey animals. Young children are often unsteady on their feet or erratic in their movements, and this can trigger an attack from even small animals that would typically avoid humans. For these reasons, many lodges do not take young children on game drives or even allow them at the lodge. Read more info about kids on safari.

For accommodation options at the best prices visit our collection of camps and lodges: private travel & conservation club. If you are not yet a member, see how to JOIN below this story.

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