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Baby elephant tragedy leads to appeal for help

The early morning phone call came into the Wildlife Works offices in Tsavo, Kenya. A baby elephant had been hit by a large truck. Written by Raabia Hawa, Founder of Walk With Rangers

Head ranger Eric Sagwe responded swiftly, using the donated anti-poaching vehicle. He set off, with numerous thoughts running through his mind, “They must be mistaking it for another smaller animal, surely not a baby elephant! What if it’s still alive?

When he arrived at the scene, people had begun to gather around…

baby elephant roadkill
©Eric Sagwe

There he lay, an elephant not more than two or three weeks old, his young life terminated. Just like that.

According to community members who had witnessed the incident, a family of elephants crossing the busy highway that dissects East and West Tsavo turned back when faced by the barrier of the new elevated Mombasa-Nairobi standard gauge railway – the biggest infrastructure project in Kenya since the country’s independence. Unaware of the underpasses provided for elephants, the herd turned back in the confusion and panic, and the little one was struck by an oncoming truck.

People crowded the scene, eager to utilise the calf for meat. Thankfully, Eric wasn’t going to have any of it and carried the calf’s lifeless body into the vehicle. With a heavy heart, he drove deep into the bush, where he left the baby elephant in a peaceful spot.

The controversial railway line has impacted on communities living around Kenya’s famed Tsavo ecosystem, with human-wildlife conflict cases rising significantly since the construction began; putting pressure on wildlife, and inevitably transferring that pressure to people – a fact that perhaps was overlooked during the planning process.

baby elephant roadkill
©Eric Sagwe

My regular drive to Tsavo regularly reveals numerous roadkills – from hyenas to mongooses, squirrels, giraffes and even endangered Grevy’s zebras. Even lions, the majestic symbol of Kenya’s Coat of Arms, have been forever silenced on this highway.

Tsavo’s elephants have been an iconic species for Kenya since it’s independence. They bring in much-needed revenue for the tourism industry, thereby contributing significantly to the nation’s GDP and to employment levels. We revere elephants and respect their close family structures and contributions to the ecosystem services we all enjoy, even in the cities.

We mourn the loss of such a young life, but perhaps this young elephant’s legacy is to help us inform you what is happening here in Tsavo.

Elephant Ignite Expedition

Africa is untamed, rugged and breathtakingly beautiful. It offers the adventure traveller a kaleidoscope of experiences that will imprint the essence of Africa on your soul for life. From stark desert landscapes to lush green plains teeming with wildlife, Africa is unique in its diversity and sheer natural splendour. This is Elephant Ignite territory.

Sadly, Africa is also a continent mercilessly targeted by poachers, stripping it of its wildlife and threatening one of its most majestic inhabitants, the African elephant, with extinction. In the last decade, Central Africa has lost 64% of its elephant population as a result of the ivory trade. A staggering 30 000 elephants are killed every year across Africa – and sadly, it has now become a battle for survival for these majestic and gentle giants.

Enter the all-female crew of the Elephant Ignite Expedition, a group of passionate ladies from vastly different walks of life who embarked on a 16 000km, 100-day journey across 10 African countries to cast the spotlight on the poaching crisis. The expedition focussed on community upliftment, youth education, public awareness for wildlife crime and poaching, and a fundraising drive to support the organisations that are fighting the critical conservation battles on the frontline.

elephants-crossing-road-adventure
Elephants crossing the road in Tarangire National Park, Tanzania © Kennedy Zaheer

Travelling through South Africa, Swaziland, Mozambique, Zimbabwe, Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, Tanzania, Malawi and Kenya, the ladies visited 37 conservation organisations to get involved and to gain a deeper understanding of the work they do. They distributed 20 000 educational booklets to schools and communities along the way, and also delivered talks and performances focussed around conservation amongst the youth. The entire crew self-funded all their participation costs, and the proceeds from the fundraising campaigns were directed to the nominated beneficiary projects.

“Every one of us can make a difference, no matter how big or small. We set out determined to ignite a fire in the hearts and minds of Africans, that would ultimately help to fight the war that is raging against our wildlife. We finished 100 days later, stronger than ever and even more dedicated to doing more for our wildlife.  I am exceptionally proud and honoured to have organised and led this crew of amazing ladies with such big hearts, and to have raised awareness, connected organisations and hopefully come up with some solutions for how we can initiate change ” said expedition leader, Carla Geyser from registered NPO Blue Sky Society Trust. The Elephant Ignite Expedition was one of the Trust’s conservation projects for 2016.

african-elephants-amboseli
Elephants in Amboseli National Park, Kenya © Yolande Kruger
living-with-elephants-tourism
Members of the EIE crew on a ‘Living with Elephants’ tour in Botswana © Graham McCullogh

COURAGE, HOPE AND LOVE

In true female style, the rugged-looking vehicles received some rather emotionally charged, but very apt names: ‘Courage’, ‘Hope’ and ‘Love’. Courage, loosely defined as , “the ability to do something that frightens you,” aptly named for all the courageous people out there with the incredibly tough task of living and working on the front lines to keep Africa’s wildlife safe. Also, because an all-women, African expedition – the first of its kind in the word – was an incredibly courageous undertaking and took some real guts.

Hope, because the people so passionately committed to African conservation give hope for all the endangered species on the continent. Elephant Ignite also hopes that their journey helped to ignite passion and inspire change, providing the people they met along the way a renewed sense of hope that they have what it takes to continue fighting the good fight.

Love, because without love and compassion, there would be no hope or courage for people to do what they do and make the sacrifices necessary to save Africa’s wildlife. The Elephant Ignite crew are full of love for Africa’s special places and wildlife, and on this particular journey, they came together as a powerful sisterhood in the battle for Africa’s elephants.

ngorogoro-crater-tanzania
A spectacular view from the top of the Ngorogoro Crater in Tanzania © Kennedy Zaheer

Travelling through some of Africa’s most scenic and awe-inspiringly beautiful regions was one of the most memorable experiences for this tough-as-nails group. Always on the move, they covered long distances under the challenging conditions expected of any real African adventure – with water crossings and heavy sand on some of the characteristic African dirt roads putting their adventure driving skills to the test!

For the team, the journey was a roller coaster of emotions, and they embraced Mother Africa with loads of laughter, the odd tear and an unwavering sense of connected sisterhood.

MEMORABLE MOMENTS

Along their journey, the team had the incredible opportunity to spend time and get involved hands-on with some on-the-ground conservation efforts in critical conservation areas in Africa. Here, they detail some of the most memorable moments from their active participation in the various conservation efforts they got involved in along the way.

A hands-on elephant collaring operation of three elephants with Dr Michelle Henley from Elephants Alive in Hoedspruit. The crew was part of the immobilisation team and stepped in to assist with data collection, sampling and measurements. The expedition also funded a tracking collar for one of the female elephants and Dr Henley announced that they would be naming the female “Ignite” in honour of the expedition’s elephant conservation efforts. The team have a follow-up visit scheduled for 2017 to report back on the progress of this project.

underside of an elephant foot
An emotional moment with a gentle giant, while collaring with Elephants Alive © Carla Geyser
Rescuing an elephant
The EIE and Elephants Alive crew in Hoedspruit, South Africa © Carla Geyser

Taking part in an active anti-poaching roadblock with Conservation South Luangwa and their canine unit in Zambia that positioned the team on the frontline of anti-poaching operations, where they truly discovered how dangerous it is for the teams on the ground.

The expedition donated funds to install a borehole and water pump in Mndanka village in Malawi – a community bordering on the Kasungu National Park where the human-elephant conflict is extreme. The community had no access to water and used to go into the park for water, putting them at risk for conflict with elephants. With access to water, their risk of elephant encounters is reduced, and they now grow crops and oyster mushrooms as the first step in a sustainable permaculture initiative. Newly installed beehive fences also help keep the elephants at bay. The expedition officially unveiled the pump and had a tour of the new agricultural initiatives.

Waterpump given to kasungu national park
EIE hands over a water pump donated to Mndaka village outside Kasungu National Park, Malawi © Carla Geyser

A visit to farmers in rural Kenya where the beehive fences that EIE donated as part of the Elephants and Bees Project with Dr Lucy King are helping to mitigate human-elephant conflict. EIE sponsored hives to protect the crops for two rural farmers, Phelicia Wanyika and Josiah Kimanga in Mwambiti Village, Sagalla. This project is gaining traction across Africa and providing tangible benefits to protect the communities and elephants.

A visit to the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust‘s release facility in Voi, Kenya. The DSWT team care selflessly for orphaned elephant calves, never leaving their sides and sleeping with the young calves at night. Once they are a bit older, the calves are allowed to roam into the wild for extended periods and taught to be more independent. This facility cares for the slightly older calves and prepares them for their release back into the wild.

feeding an African elephant
Feeding time at the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust in Voi, Kenya © Kennedy Zaheer

A tour of Ol Pejeta Conservancy, Kenya and meeting ‘Sudan’, the last living male Northern white rhino left in the world, destined for extinction. Standing next to this magnificent animal, everyone was overcome with deep sadness and shame at the realisation that humanity has failed the rhino as a species, as we have failed so many others before him.

Meet ‘Sudan’ in the video below.

The immobilisation and successful treatment of an injured elephant cow in Kenya with Kenya Wildlife Services. The cow was found with spear wounds, and members of the team supported KWS during the rescue mission. Just a couple of days later, on a visit to Save the Elephants research camp, yet another emergency search and rescue mission prompted the team to rush out and locate an orphaned calf “Shaba” in Samburu National Park. The mother was killed, leaving behind two calves; the older calf was reunited with the herd and the young baby, successfully darted and airlifted to safety at the Reteti Elephant Sanctuary. Shaba is doing very well and proved to be a real leader, already taking on a matriarch role at the sanctuary.

saving shaba the elephant
Saving ‘Shaba’ with KWS and Save the Elephants in Samburu National Park, Kenya © Natalie Dumbrill
Elephant being transported in a helicopter
‘Shaba’ en route to the Reteti Animal Orphanage in northern Kenya © Penny Parker

This expedition was a real journey with purpose, allowing the team to explore Mother Africa and experience her in all her splendour.  Breathtakingly beautiful, at times brutal, but always ready to welcome and inspire. It has ignited a passion in each of the ladies to protect and commit to sharing stories of the work done by the extraordinary wildlife warriors on the frontline of African wildlife conservation.

To find out more about the expedition team, continue reading below the advert.

Africa Geographic Travel

THE TEAM

The team consisted of six permanent crew members that completed the entire journey, and seven alternating crew that joined for shorter periods. Each permanent crew member had a stake in the planning and on the expedition, the duties were shared between all team members. A duty roster ensured that the workload was covered and that each person pulled their weight. The responsibilities included: cooking, washing up, maintenance and safety.

wounded elephant rescue conservation
At Teita Estate in Tsavo, Kenya, after helping to treat a wounded elephant cow with KWS © Jen Hartley

The maintenance involved setting up the camp chairs and tables, making fires and spraying all the tents with a special mosquito repellent. The safety person had to charge two-way radios and GPS’s for the following day’s use. She also had to remain with the vehicles during stops to ensure that no-one tampered with them, and ran extra checks on locks or items left behind. Security is critical when travelling in Africa…

THE VEHICLES

The Elephant Ignite expedition would not have been possible without the three fully-kitted safari vehicles sponsored by Avis 4×4 Safari Rentals/Overland 360. The 4×4 Ford Ranger proved itself as a reliable, all-terrain workhorse. The ladies prepared for off-road driving under the watchful eye of 4×4 instructors and braved a selection of difficult obstacles during their training sessions. From rough ditches, fearsome hills, steep declines, deep sand, mud and water – even with the added weight of carrying a ‘mini motel’ on the back of the vehicles – the Ford Rangers performed reliably and brilliantly.

Vehicles crossing the river in the eastern panhandle of the Okakango Delta
The fearless EIE team crossing high water in the eastern panhandle of the Okavango Delta, Botswana © Carla Geyser
vehicles driving in Tsavo in Kenya
EIE vehicles driving through the dry season in Tsavo West, Kenya © Carla Geyser
A baobab tree
A baobab tree stands watch like an ancient giant in Zimbabwe © Yolande Kruger

View a map of all the national parks and reserves visited on the expedition below

Africa Geographic Travel

About the authors

Expedition leader Carla Geyser (founder of the Blue Sky Society Trust) started dreaming about doing an expedition dedicated to elephants in 2012. She just loves elephants and wanted to do something special to make a difference for them, and to say thank you to the people on the ground who work continuously to ensure their survival. The Elephant Ignite Expedition was her way of paying tribute to these majestic animals.

 

 

Permanent crew member Yolande Kruger is extremely passionate about Africa, and serves as an executive board member of the Lawrence Anthony Earth Organisation. She is also a patron of the Blue Sky Society Trust. She believes that elephants are an iconic species, and that everyday individuals can do more to support and create awareness for the survival of these majestic animals. This was her motive on this expedition, and Elephant Ignite is a brand that she is proud to be associated with.

 

Also read: Love for elephants in this expedition

Love for elephants on the Elephant Ignite Expedition

elephants

Most of us take elephants for granted.Written by Carla Geyser

They are the largest land mammal on earth and a key part of the Big Five. We often get to marvel at their beauty on African wildlife postcards or admire them while watching National Geographic documentaries. Most people think it’s the rhino that is the only animal under threat, but sadly elephants are right up there alongside them.

These magnificent lumbering giants are steadily being butchered at an alarming rate. Elephants are one of the major casualties of a poaching war against wildlife that has completely spiralled out of control. If you live in Africa and have had contact with the wildlife it is hard not to have the urge to protect them fiercely. But what can we all do about it?

The Elephant Ignite Expedition was an idea that I came up with as a way to raise money and awareness for elephant conservation projects. My idea was to bring a group of passionate and skilled women to see first-hand just what the real threats were against these mighty creatures. To harness their talents and to try and find solutions.

elephant-ignite-team

This epic expedition was a means to highlight in the worldwide media what is happening to these animals on a grand scale. The expedition was plotted over 15,787 kilometres over a period of 100 days.

This dynamic all-female crew left Durban on Women’s Day, 9 August 2016, and proceeded to visit ten different countries, visiting 37 projects that work tirelessly to save the dwindling elephant populations. All this was done within 100 days. An amazing achievement!

Collaring-with-Elephants-Alive

I have been asked plenty of time: why only women? Well, elephants have always been one of my passions – they seem to embody everything that is good about Africa and family. Elephants are wise old souls and they are deeply intelligent.

Elephants-and-Bees

The herd is managed by a matriarch. There are things that we as a species can learn from the matriarch. She leads her herd with great strength and confidence, secure in any decisions she needs to make, but at the same time leading with a firm, but gentle hand. Elephants are full of compassion and empathy, and they are not shy to show their emotions. Most of all a matriarch relies on her network. She does nothing alone and has her family and all the other elephants to lean on. As a combined unit they achieve a WHOLE lot more than as individuals.

We can learn SO much from our wildlife if we just open our eyes, our ears and our hearts.

elephant-ignite-crew

R.I.P SATAO 2

R.I.P. SATAO 2 – a giant amongst elephants

Another giant has fallen to poachers, and the remaining estimated 50-100 Tuskers survive in small pockets across East and Southern Africa, pursued by poachers and trophy hunters alike. You see, it’s their tusks, 100 pounds on each side to qualify as a ‘Tusker’, that is their crowning glory and their death sentence.

Our blog post earlier this week goes into the details of Satao 2’s death, so my team and I wish to pay tribute to him, as we did in 2014 for his erstwhile companion Satao, also claimed by a poacher’s arrow. Every time one of these gentle giants goes down to a poacher or trophy hunter, we lose another part of Africa’s soul.

In the following tributes, you will hear from some of those who had the privilege of being near Satao 2 recently, touched by his massive, gentle presence and saddened at his death. You will also learn more about Tsavo National Park in Kenya and what you can do to help.

There are, of course, many good people working under incredible pressure all over Africa to stem the tide of poaching. On this occasion, though, the spotlight falls on the good people of Kenyan Wildlife Services and the Tsavo Trust, who work tirelessly to safeguard Tsavo’s gentle giants.

Richard Moller, who runs Tsavo Trust, has called for a few Tsavo Tuskers to be granted Presidential Security Decree, as was the case with Marsabit National Park’s famous tusker ‘Ahmed’ in the early 1970s. Now, there is a campaign worth supporting!

If you feel emotional, angry or downright frustrated about the situation, consider finding out about Tsavo Trust and donating some of your hard-earned money. Every little bit helps.

Simon Espley
Africa Geographic CEO

satao

©Johan Marais, wildlife vet and CEO of Saving the Survivors

I am pretty gutted, really. Satao 2 was a good-natured elephant and very approachable, one of those easy old boys to find. Many of the others are much more challenging to see.

Satao 2 has been a film star for many film crews enjoying Tsavo and its last remaining iconic Tuskers. Most recently, Tsavo hosted the BBC “My Family and Me” shoot that took place in mid-2016 and aired in Britain in December 2016 – Satao 2 was showcased to millions of people.

During our ‘Big Tusker Project’ surveillance, we logged Satao 2 no fewer than 160 times since December 2013 – that’s once every 6.5 days on average. Although this undoubtedly did help in his security and gave us a better understanding of his home range (and that of the other impressive emerging Tuskers that he roamed with), this incident shows some gaps need to be filled. There is an urgent need to step up activities with regard to Tsavo’s super tuskers.
Many will miss him.”

Richard Moller
Chief Conservation Officer, Tsavo Trust

satao

©Dex Kotze

“I feel a strong sense of connection to the big tuskers and I made my way to Tsavo National Park in 2016 to spend a week with some of these exceptional, majestic elephant bulls that still survive in Africa. Finding them was not easy, but searching for 11 hours a day eventually ensured success, and I was fortunate to closely observe three of the remaining Tuskers on the continent. Luck was on my side, and I had daily sightings of Satao 2, watching him for hours, flanked by another large bull that seemed so small alongside him in the dry savannah. Drinking at waterholes amongst the herd, he commanded complete respect from all the other elephants. His towering presence will remain with me forever, vividly etched into my memories. His death is another immeasurable loss to the big elephant gene pool and, of course, to Kenya’s tourism industry. Now, more than ever, the last remaining Tuskers need presidential protection.”

Dex Kotze
Businessman, conservation activist and fundraiser

satao

©Greg du Toit

“After hearing about the death of Satao 1 three years ago, I visited Tsavo to look for emerging tuskers. Finally, after days of searching, we spotted a wonderful younger bull called Satao 2 from the air. As we circled over him, I snapped this shot, and I was so ecstatic. His tusks were not as big as those of Satao 1, but my guide exclaimed: “give him ten years, and he will be as big as Satao 1!” Leaving Tsavo, I was so relieved that Satao 2 was ‘in the pipeline’, so to speak, to become one of Africa’s great tuskers. As it turns out, this was not to be. On my visit, I saw many more emerging tuskers – so perhaps now is not the time to mourn.

Now is the time to act! If you want to help, please donate to the ‘Big Tusker Project’ (run by the Tsavo Trust), which not only does aerial surveillance but puts armed scout units on the ground. Every cent helps to employ more scouts. I have visited this project on the ground, and it is excellent. Seriously, every cent helps!”

Greg du Toit
Professional wildlife photographer and guide and winner of ‘Wildlife Photographer of the Year 2013.’

Note from the editor: Apologies for the grainy picture. Greg is currently guiding in Tanzania, and could not email us a higher resolution picture.

satao

©Dex Kotze

More about Tuskers

The name tuskers or super tuskers, or ‘hundred pounders’ in hunting terms, is reserved for male elephants with at least one tusk of 100 pounds (45,45kg). They tend to be larger than other elephants and stand out in a herd, even when accompanied by other large males.

Trophy hunters have sought out big-tusked elephants since the ‘great white hunter’ days; to this day, they still kill these giant elephants for bragging rights. Yet today, the most immediate threat to tuskers and all elephants is poaching to supply the insatiable demand from the Far East for ivory. Most tuskers have been wiped out after many years of poaching and trophy hunting, and the gene pool is severely compromised.

The massive 44,000 km² Tsavo Conservation Area is home to the world’s highest population of large-tusked elephants, with 6 super tuskers and 15 emerging tuskers (young bulls with the genes and potential to become tuskers). Seven cows with tusks reaching the ground are also being monitored.

Every tusker plays a vital role in the genetic stability of elephant populations and should, in the ideal world, be granted individual protection against those wishing to kill them.

Richard Moller, CEO of Tsavo Trust, has called for a few Tsavo Tuskers to be granted Presidential Security Decree, as was the case with Marsabit National Park’s famous Tusker ‘Ahmed’ in the early 1970s.

©Dex Kotze

Tsavo National Park, Kenya

East and West Tsavo National Parks combine with the neighbouring Chyulu Hills National Park to form one of Africa’s largest wildlife areas – the Tsavo Conservation Area of 44,000 km2

Tsavo West is dominated by magnificent hills that tower over the surrounding arid plains and shelter the crystal-clear waters of Mzima Springs, where you can sit in an underwater glass chamber to watch hippos and crocodiles. Tsavo East, on the other hand, is a flat thorn and baobab savannah – ideal for spectacular views of the large elephant herds and huge bulls that are famously always covered in red dust.

The view across the arid plains to the iconic Mount Kilimanjaro is spectacular.

One way to contribute to the conservation of Tsavo and the super tuskers is to visit the area on safari. In doing so, you not only contribute to Kenyan revenue but also help lodges employ and upskill local people. For a few years now, we have offered the popular Walking with Giants safari in Tsavo to those of our guests who enjoy an authentic mobile camp safari from a bygone era.

satao

©Tsavo Trust

Tsavo Trust and the Big Tusker Project

The Tsavo Trust operates the Big Tusker Project in conjunction with Kenyan Wildlife Services. They focus on aerial and ground surveillance and data capture, backed up by the KWS’ rapid reaction teams that deal with poaching incidents.

This successful cooperative model with KWS has substantially reduced poaching in the area despite a chronic shortage of funding.

Tsavo Trust CEO Richard Moller and his co-pilot Josh Outram spend over 60 hours per month logging the movements of Tsavo’s elephants. Since their inception, they have donated more than US$300,000 worth of anti-poaching vehicles and equipment to KWS.

They also work closely with local communities, as they fully appreciate that the survival of Africa’s iconic species depends on the participation of people who live on park borders. Human-wildlife conflict is the cause of so many wild animal deaths in Africa, and no conservation project can succeed without the total involvement of communities at a meaningful level.

Spending time on safari at a Maasai village

Giada and Gianluca Ventura from Italy visited a Maasai village during their recent Kenyan safari and had this to say:

“We had always wanted to visit a Maasai village and witness the famous adumu (‘jumping dance’) as performed by the Morani. During our stay at Sentinel Mara Camp in the Maasai Mara, our dream came true!

Maasai

We had read many stories regarding the Maasai warriors and wished to understand why they were so widely employed by camps and hotels as askari (guards). Approaching the village, our first clue dawned on us when Dominic, our Maasai guide, pointed to a hyena apparently on the horizon: “Guys… do you see the blood on her face?” The blood?! We couldn’t even see the hyena!

Maasai welcome

Arriving at the village in the middle of wild Africa, we noticed the fence made of acacia branches with thorns and wondered if it was solid enough to protect the village against wild animals like lions, leopards, and hyenas.

Maasai woman

We were greeted by the boss of the clan (who thanked us for coming to visit the village) and invited us to wait for the women coming from inside the kraal. It was an amazing welcome! Maasai women sang in front of us while wearing beautiful bangles and strings of coloured beads around their necks. Giada was especially pleased about the chance of doing some jewellery shopping at the village!

Maasai making fire

We had fun (and learned a lot) trying to light a fire in less than three minutes – using just two sticks of wood and elephant dung. Amazing! I remember trying this in Italy, but of course, without the elephant dung! And then came the ‘jumping dance’. I was invited to participate in it and lifted from the ground and jumped so high that it was impossible to take a good photo of my superb athleticism! Jokes aside, it was a privilege assisting with the adumu – a dance usually performed during the coming-of-age ceremony where adult boys are initiated into warrior men.

adumu

We also visited a Maasai hut, which was very small and had only three rooms – the entrance, a shelter for some animals, and the main room. It wasn’t even high enough to stand upright! A tiny hole in the roof let a little light into the hut, but we were told its main purpose was to let the smoke from the smouldering fire – used for cooking and warmth – escape. Exiting the hut, we had to wear sunglasses to protect our eyes from the contrasting glare!

Maasai

Our visit was almost over, and we were about to leave when Giada grabbed my arm and turned me back towards the assortment of fantastic Maasai jewellery and other items that were proudly displayed for sale. How could I have forgotten?! Now was the time to buy some really special souvenirs!”


Find out about the Maasai Mara for your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.


 

Maasai

Satao 2 poached in Tsavo – 6 super tuskers left

SATAO 2 is dead, and another of the last tuskers left in Africa has been poached, leaving only 6 of these giants in the Tsavo Conservation Area in southern Kenya. This is a devastating blow to elephant conservation and super tusker genes.

satao
Satao 2 carcass, discovered with tusks intact. © Tsavo Trust

SATAO 2 was named after SATAO, the iconic giant who was poached in 2014 and was one of the largest tuskers left on Earth. A ‘tusker’ is an elephant whose tusks each weigh more than 100 lbs / 45,45kg. The tusks of Satao 2 weighed 51kg and 50.5kg.

Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) rangers discovered the gruesome kill site before the poachers had the time to remove the tusks. Although not totally certain, indications are that a poison arrow killed SATAO 2. In subsequent investigations, two people have been apprehended and weapons seized. KWS continues to work hard to rid Tsavo of poaching teams that roam the reserve.

satao
Satao 2 © Dex Kotze

The massive 44,000 km² Tsavo Conservation Area (twice the size of South Africa’s Kruger National Park) is home to the highest population of large-tusked elephants in the world, with 6 ‘super tuskers’ (of approximately 25-30 in the whole of Africa) and 15 emerging tuskers (young bulls who have the genes and potential to become tuskers). There are also seven cows with tusks reaching the ground that are being monitored.

Elephant populations in the area crashed due to poaching from the highs of 45,000 in the early 1970s to fewer than 6,000 in 1989. Since then the population has recovered to 11,000 (last aerial census in 2014) due to the formation of the KWS and the international ban on ivory trade – although there has again been an increase in poaching since then. For further information see our magazine issue The Silent Giants of Tsavo.

tsavo-trust-ivory
The tusks from Satao 2, recovered from his carcass by KWS rangers. © Tsavo Trust

The Tsavo Trust operates the Big Tusker Project in conjunction with KWS and focusses on aerial and ground surveillance and data capture, backed up by the KWS’ rapid reaction teams that deal with poaching incidents.

SATAO 2’s death, and the recent spike in poaching, represent a significant threat to the world’s last-remaining tuskers and Tsavo’s precious elephant population. PLEASE consider supporting the Tsavo Trust in their brave battle to keep these elephants safe from the ruthless poaching syndicates.

Tsavo Trust CEO Richard Moller would like to see one or two of the iconic Tsavo super tuskers enjoy a Presidential Security Decree, as was the case with the famous tusker called Ahmed of Marsabit National Park in Kenya in the early 1970s. If successfully repeated, this will be a momentous achievement in conservation leadership by an African president.

Satao-2-big-tusker
Satao 2 © Dex Kotze

18% crash in Kruger white rhino population

The combined effects of drought and poaching have reduced estimated white rhino numbers in South Africa’s Kruger National Park by 18% during the past year, according to the latest official figures. See point 4 below, for more information about this specific statistic. This amid a decline in poaching statistics generally.

white-rhino-kruger-national-park
White rhino in Kruger National Park, South Africa ©Simon Espley

South African Minister of Environmental Affairs Edna Molewa last night issued a lengthy report back on the Integrated Strategic Management of Rhino during 2016. Here then are the 10 facts from her report that we think you should be aware of. Read the entire announcement here.

1. A total of 1 054 rhinos were poached nationwide in 2016 (1 175 in 2015) – a decline of 10.3%;

2. Specifically for the Kruger National Park, a total of 662 rhino carcasses were found in 2016 (826 in 2015) – a decline of 19.85%;

3. Again for Kruger, there were a staggering 2 883 instances of poaching-related activities in 2016 (2 466 in 2015) – an increase of 16.9%. These include poaching camps, contacts, crossings, sightings, tracks and shots fired. These criminal gangs are armed to the teeth, well-funded and part of transnational syndicates who will stop at nothing to get their hands on rhino horn;

4. White rhino population estimate in Kruger is 6 649 – 7 830 (corresponding 2015 estimate was 8 365 – 9 337) – a decrease of 18%. It must be noted that there was an increase in natural deaths of white rhinos due to the unprecedented drought conditions;

5. Black rhino population estimate in Kruger is 349 – 465 (corresponding 2015 estimate was 313453 – an increase of 6%. The drought effect was not as noticeable on black rhinos;

6. 46 elephants were poached in the Kruger (no 2015 figure provided);

7. 11 rhinos were internally translocated away from boundaries in the Kruger for security reasons – part of an ongoing internal translocation strategy;

8. 106 rhinos were translocated from national parks to private strongholds, and none of these were poached;

9. There are approximately 38 orphans under the care of Kruger National Park and partners and Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife;

10. 680 poachers and traffickers were arrested for rhino-related poaching offences nationally (317 in 2015). Of this number, 417 were arrested in or near the Kruger National Park. 148 firearms were seized inside the Kruger, and 6 just outside the park.

Also read: January 2022 update on rhino populations in the Kruger National Park

Trophy hunting: leopard update

Earlier this year, South African Environmental Affairs minister Edna Molewa announced a ZERO quota for leopard hunts in 2017, a continuation of the 2016 ruling.

This after an alert by the country’s Scientific Authority that the number of leopards in the country was unknown and that trophy hunting posed a high risk to the survival of the species.

But in the latest development, Molewa has now proposed control measures relating to the trophy hunting of leopards, that will apply once the quota is reinstated. Conservation-minded people should read the summary below, to better understand the situation as regards to leopard hunting in South Africa, and to respond to the Minister (you have 30 days).

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Here is a brief summary of the notice, which attempts to establish a framework for future leopard trophy hunts:

1. Most leopards are hunted by way of baiting (using a carcass to draw the leopard in), from a shooting distance of 50-80m.

2. Leopard Hunting Zones (LHZ) will be determined, based on leopard populations and hunting pressure. No individual property may be included in more than one permit application.

3. Male leopards can be accurately aged based on the dewlap size (the dewlap is the loose flap of skin on the throat).

4. Harvesting male leopards older than 7 years has the least effect on population stability because at that age they will have held their territory for long enough to allow one litter to grow to independence. Accordingly, only male leopards that are 7 years or older may be hunted. If this rule is broken, the relevant LHZ will receive no quota for the following year.

5. Each hunt requires a permit in the name of the hunting client or the local professional hunter, for each leopard to be hunted (multiple leopard hunt applications will be accepted). These permits must be applied for before September, for hunts taking place in the following year.

6. The professional hunter accompanying the client must pass a once-off ‘leopard hunting examination’. Bizarrely this website permits an unlimited number of practise exams, before the official exam is taken online. Professional hunters that can provide evidence that they have undergone approved training in the determination of a leopard’s age do not need to pass the exam.

7. Each leopard trophy must be inspected within 24 hours of the hunt by an environmental management inspector of the relevant permit-issuing authority, and DNA samples taken.

8. If any hunt contributes to the destabilisation of the relevant leopard population, appropriate action will be taken against the professional hunter to curtail their leopard hunts and/or institute criminal proceedings.

Interested parties have 30 days from 8 February 2017 to make representations or to object in writing, to Ms Makganthe Maleka mamaleka@environment.gov.za and +27 (0)12 399 8865

Download your copy of the relevant Government Gazette notice (the leopard-related content is after the rhino-related content)

Of leatherbacks and loggerheads

As our guide brought the open game vehicle coasting to a halt, the only sound was of waves breaking gently on the sand. That morning, Sodwana Bay had been clamorous with tractors and trailers, speedboats and scuba divers. But now, late at night, the beach was utterly empty. And out there, somewhere, an ancient and awe-inspiring story was unfolding.

You see, as well as being one of the world’s top dive sites, Sodwana Bay in the iSimangaliso Wetland Park is also one of the very few places in southern Africa where sea turtles nest. Of the five species of turtles found in these seas, the two largest come here to lay their eggs. ISimangaliso is Africa’s last primary nesting site for leatherbacks and loggerheads.

Each year, from November to January, the giant tracks of female leatherback and loggerhead turtles emerge from the surf, looking like paths left by aquatic tanks. A couple of months later, the tiny, almost invisible trails of baby turtles scatter from holes below the dunes. Not all of them reach the sea.

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When the sun sets, legions of stalk-eyed ghost crabs scuttle up and down the beach, ready to grab turtle hatchlings as they try to reach the sea. © Scott Ramsay

The serious circumstances of sea turtles

It was mid-January, so we were just in time to witness both sides of this 100-million-year-old ritual. Our guide was Peter Jacobs of Ufudu Turtle Tours. He’s an honorary wildlife officer with Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife who’s passionate about protecting Sodwana Bay’s sea turtles. The tours he runs on this 10-mile stretch of beach aren’t just for entertainment. They’re a way to create a public appreciation for these magnificent creatures – and some awareness of their plight.

After Peter gave us an introductory talk about sea turtles, we drove north along the beach, below the high tide mark. The only illumination came from our dim yellow headlights, the pale glow of a gibbous moon slipping between clouds, and the rhythmic slash of the lighthouse on the hill. Unfortunately, said Peter, this was too much light. Ideally, the lighthouse would be turned off, and so would our headlights. Nothing besides the moon and stars should shine on a beach where turtles are nesting.

That’s because turtles are incredibly sensitive to light. Female turtles navigate towards the shore using the dark outline of vegetated dunes against the night sky. Hatchlings find their way to the sea by orienting themselves to its reflective glimmer. Any artificial light at a sea turtle nesting site dramatically lowers their chances of success.

And it’s not as if their odds are particularly good in the first place. Although leatherback and loggerhead turtles usually lay around 100 eggs in a nest, and dig on average five nests in a season, it’s estimated that scarcely one in a thousand hatchlings make it to maturity.

From the moment a sea turtle egg hits the damp sand of a nest, it’s under threat. Once the female turtle has dragged herself laboriously back to the ocean, the eggs are left entirely unprotected. Dogs and jackals, ants and ghost crabs, snakes, gulls, rats, cats and mongooses all adore a tasty turtle egg.

Then, once the turtle hatches, it has to push its way up through the sand and hope for a clear passage to the sea. This, however, is highly unlikely. While adult leatherbacks and loggerheads weigh hundreds of pounds and are virtually immune to natural predators, their hatchlings are just a couple of inches long and weigh less than two ounces.

Thousands of stalk-eyed ghost crabs patrol the dunes, waiting to drag the tiny turtles away. If a hatchling doesn’t reach water before daylight, it will die of dehydration or be scooped up by gulls and raptors. Even if a baby turtle successfully reaches the ocean, there’s no respite. Squid, fish, sharks and eels are all waiting to gobble it up.

Although adult leatherbacks can grow up to seven-foot, hatchling leatherback turtles are less than two and a half inches long, making them easy pickings for predators. © Scott Ramsay
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To humans, stalk-eyed ghost crabs seem harmless, but it’s estimated that they make off with more than 10 per cent of newly hatched turtles. © Scott Ramsay

Finding Fynn

Peter stopped the vehicle a short stretch along the beach. He explained that he and a group of volunteers monitor each nest they locate. A loggerhead nest nearby was due to hatch any day now. Perhaps we would be lucky enough to see it happen. We waited while he trotted up the dune with a red torch (red light doesn’t confuse turtles) and jumped out to join him when he beckoned.

“We just missed it,” said Peter, kneeling beside a hollow in the sand, around which some rubbery egg fragments lay. “They probably came out about half an hour ago. Let’s see if there are any stragglers left in the nest.” He dug carefully. “Aaah, this one hatched but didn’t make it. It might have suffocated.”

There were no live turtles in the nest, but Peter noticed several trails leading away from it towards the dunes. He suggested we fetch our torches to see if we could find any hatchlings that had been kidnapped by ghost crabs.

Holding my headlamp close to the ground to minimise its range, I followed a pair of tracks into the hollow of a dune. “Oh! I’ve found one!” The little loggerhead had turned towards my torchlight and was determinedly forging its way onwards with three flippers.

“A crab must have dragged it by its front flipper and damaged it,” said Peter when he saw it. “It’s highly unlikely that this one would have survived anyway. It’s lost in the dunes, out of sight of the sea, and it’s injured. So I’m going to allow you to help it.”

This sounded like an odd thing for Peter to say, but he told us that people’s attempts to help turtle hatchlings could often do more harm than good. Picking them up transmits bacteria they’re not equipped to fight. And carrying them to the sea instead of letting them walk means their flippers don’t get the vital exercise they need to strengthen them for swimming.

So we scooped the little loggerhead up in a handful of sand and carried it back to the nest. Then, since we were desperate to be helpful, Peter allowed us to use torches to guide it to the water.

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Turtle tourists must make sure that any lights they shine are directly in line with the turtles’ path to the sea, so as not to lead them astray. © Scott Ramsay
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A turtle’s sex is determined by the temperature of the sand around the nest. At 29 degrees Celsius, hatchlings will be evenly split between males and females. Colder temperatures produce more males, warmer sand will result in more females. © Scott Ramsay

By now, I had named the turtle Fynn. (There’s no way to tell a turtle’s sex by sight, so I’d decided he was a boy.) I growled whenever someone shone a torch, or turned on a cellphone or camera that wasn’t directly in line with his path to the sea, because, each time, no matter how faint it was, Fynn would turn towards the light, and away from the water.

So I crawled in front of him with my torch, smoothing the sand, and saying stupid things like “Come on, Fynn! You’re a champ! You can do it!” Never has 100 metres felt so far. But at last, Fynn’s first wave washed over him. His flippers waggled with what looked like delight. We clapped and cheered. Then another wave whisked him out and away.

Beyond the beach, endless dangers waited: marlin, barracuda, tiger sharks – predators too numerous to name. And then there are the human perils of plastic, pollution, poaching, fishing lines, nets and boats. Fynn has less than a one in a thousand chance of reaching adulthood. But, at least he lived long enough to swim.

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Newly-hatched loggerhead turtles are less than five centimetres (two inches) long and weigh only 20 grams (less than one ounce) © Scott Ramsay

Lady Leatherback

Exhilarated by this remarkable encounter, I felt that the evening couldn’t possibly get any better. Although, as we enjoyed a midnight feast on the beach, I admitted that it would be nice to see a leatherback turtle too.

Leatherback turtles are the rockstars of the turtle world. They grow the longest (up to 7 feet), weigh the most (up to almost a ton), swim the fastest (up to 22 miles an hour), dive the deepest (up to 1,200 metres) and range the furthest (from Norway to New Zealand). And they do this all on a strict diet of jellyfish, which are 95 per cent water.

So it was an immense thrill, when, on our way back along the beach, Peter spotted the massive shape of a female leatherback. She’d already reached the dunes and was looking for a place to lay her eggs. We waited quietly in the dark until she started digging. Only then did Peter permit us to approach, on condition that we kept well behind her and did not use torches, cellphones or cameras.

She was a giantess, dwarfing us all. And she was beautiful. Her soft, leathery carapace was deep blue-black splotched with white. It looked as though she had mapped the galaxies. Her dappled flippers and neck shaded down to shell-like pink. The salt glands above her large, dark eyes made it seem as though she was shedding soulful tears, and her breath hissed sharply with the effort of digging.

Patiently, methodically, meticulously, the leatherback’s rear flippers scooped and slapped the sand aside. Even though the tide was rising and our time was running out, we were mesmerised. At last, the nest was as deep as the turtle could make it and her eggs, looking precisely like ping pong balls, started to drop into it.

With luck, in a few weeks, most of those eggs would hatch. Dozens of miniature leatherback turtles would toddle towards the starlit sea. And then, perhaps, many years later, one of her offspring would emerge again on this beach – in almost the same spot – to repeat this mysterious cycle of life.

The leatherback turtles of iSimangaliso are the most southern breeding population in the world, and with fewer than 100 laying females coming ashore each year, they are rarer than black rhino. © Gal Zanir
Leatherback hatchlings push out of their nest to start their long walk to the sea. Male sea turtles never leave the water once they enter it, but the females will return to nest on the beach where they were born. © Scott Ramsay

What to do in iSimangaliso

Ufudu Turtle Tours conduct turtle tours in Sodwana Bay from November to May. Tours are around low tide times in the evenings or late at night and last around four hours.

With coral reefs that boast two-thirds of the species diversity of the Great Barrier Reef in an area a tenth of the size, scuba diving in Sodwana Bay is not to be missed. Coral Divers is a PADI 5 star Gold Palm IDC Centre, offering every level of dive instruction.

Even if you’ve never scuba dived before, they’ll have you safely under the sea within a day. In just three dives, I was lucky enough to see ragged-toothed sharks, green turtles, eagle rays, moray eels and hundreds of species of fish and corals.

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The coral reefs at Sodwana Bay support mare than 1200 fish species as well as more than 100 coral species © Fiona Ayerst

The Fig Forest guided walking trail in uMkhuze offers birders the chance to spot the incredibly rare Pel’s fishing owl. We weren’t in luck that day, but we did see squadrons of trumpeter hornbills, thousands of butterflies, and, of course, spectacular sycamore figs.

On a night game drive in the Eastern Shores section of iSimangaliso with SHAKAbarker Tours, we learned how to spot chameleons in the dark, and saw plenty of larger animals, including elephants, kudu, buffalo and hippopotamus.

We also took a leisurely boat cruise to view hippos and crocs in the St Lucia Estuary with Shoreline Boat and Walking Safaris.

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Lake St Lucia in iSimangaliso is Africa’s most extensive estuarine system and is home to more than 800 hippos and 1200 crocodiles @ Alison Westwood
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A guided walk through the sycamore fig forest and a visit to iNsumo Pan are favourite activities for visitors to the uMkhuze section of iSimangaliso © Alison Westwood
Africa Geographic Travel

About the author

image1Alison Westwood is a South African travel writer based in Cape Town. She’s written and photographed for magazines, travel websites and travel guides, and has recently co-authored a book about Secret Cape Town.
Alison has interviewed some of Africa’s most interesting travellers as well as investigating all sorts of travel-related issues, from elephant culling to carbon-offsets. In addition to travelling, Alison loves to hike. She blogs about getting lost in the mountains on 52 Cape Town Hikes.

Protecting pangolins with the Tikki Hywood Trust

The Tikki Hywood Trust is an organisation that focuses on the conservation of lesser-known endangered animals. Their flagship species – pangolins – has found its way into mainstream media as the most trafficked animal in the world.

What is the Tikki Hywood Trust?

The Trust is a wildlife-based Non-Governmental Organization (NGO) whose focus is on generating awareness based on the legislation that governs conservation practices. Founder Lisa Hywood wanted to do something that honoured the memory of her father who inspired a love of the wild and an ability to get results. It is this ethos and the determination to preserve the heritage that is our natural world, which drives the Trusts’ work with pangolins.

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“We are not a zoo in any way. We are not open to the public. We do not have a volunteer program” – Tikki Hywood Trust

Lisa is adamant that, “conservation is not just cute and cuddly”. While her childhood passion and first love are the animals that she fights so hard to protect, she maintains an expansive view of conservation that reaches over and beyond the animals. “Sitting with members of different departments, developing strategies, strengthening wildlife protection, challenging legislation which protects wildlife and training different groups of people, officials stake holders… this is all part of conservation. That is the reality of conservation,” she says.

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“We always wanted to be able to get these pangolins back into their wild” – Tikki Hywood Trust
In the early days…

What most people don’t know about the Tikki Hywood Trust is that the animal that launched them was the elephant. In 1994, due to the drought in Zimbabwe, the Trust was involved with the first translocation of 40 bull elephants. It was an experience that made a lasting impression on Lisa.

What is more remarkable, however, are the parallels she draws between the two species. “With elephants,” she begins “we relate to them because we can see the similarities between ourselves and them. But I can honestly say that pangolins, even though they are incredibly different, have intelligence that I don’t even think we have begun to understand.”

The lack of knowledge and understanding of the pangolin inspired so much of the Trusts’ work with pangolins. In 1994, Lisa received her first pangolin in what she describes vividly as a “foul-smelling sack” that contained a “heavy lump”. Not knowing what to do, Lisa began walking with the pangolin. Her name was Negomo and it was this intensive interaction, observation and dedication to her that enabled the Trust to help pangolins around the world.

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“The government of Zimbabwe, through the judiciary have sent a very strong message to wildlife criminals. We now need countries in Africa and destination countries in Asia to follow suit if we have a hope of winning this war” – Tikki Hywood Trust
Awareness and the importance of legisation

The Tikki Hywood Trust’s approach is based on conservation, education and legislation. Lisa says that in Zimbabwe, the key species in terms of legislation is the pangolin, “when we do change legislation we don’t just change it for the pangolin. We change it for the A-Z of all species”. It is through the work that the Tikki Hywood Trust has done that legislation for wildlife has been changed and Lisa says that the challenge is to get stakeholders to focus on and to understand the laws pertaining to wildlife and prosecution within their own countries.

Many stakeholders, from conservation officials to police and the judiciary are unaware of the law. As a result of this many poachers simply fall through the cracks before they even get to court. The onus, therefore, falls on educating the various stakeholders and addressing legal loopholes that are outdated. “Don’t be afraid to address the law. If it is not working then we must address it because it is the law and the law is there to act as a deterrent,” says Lisa.

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“It is only when the law acts as a deterrent that we are having a positive effect” – Tikki Hywood Trust

As an example, South Africa has the strongest legislation pertaining to pangolin protection in the world. Illegal possession of a pangolin can result in a fine of US$694,000 and ten years in jail. Despite this hefty punishment, there have been no convictions for pangolin poaching. The result, Lisa believes, of a lack of awareness from law enforcement and judiciary. It indicates a disconnection between the legislation and what is happening on the ground.

In Zimbabwe, the punishment is 9 years on the first offence, 11 years on the second offence and a US$5,000 fine. In 2015 forty-seven poachers were convicted to 9 years in jail. For people who are trying to provide for their families, this is a hefty price to pay and so acts as a real deterrent. Lisa maintains that “education is key across the board”. In 2016 alone, the Trust did 5 workshops with the judiciary, stakeholders, police and personnel that are involved from point of arrest to prosecution. In this way, through education, the Tikki Hywood Trust affects positive change.

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“What is important to understand is that the demand is coming from Asia” – Tikki Hywood Trust
Trust and collaboration

In a very real way, the Tikki Hywood Trust is forging connections across different social spectrums. In December of 2016, Lisa flew to London for the launch of the Patrick Mavros collection of pangolin jewellery; a collection that was three years in the making. It was through this collaboration that Adrian Steirn was invited to document the Trust’s work. The series of images “The Pangolin Men” was exhibited alongside the jewellery at the launch. While 10% of the proceeds go towards pangolin conservation, more importantly, the marriage of the different mediums got everyone talking about pangolins!

In a way that transcends the usual conservation models, the Tikki Hywood Trust, through these collaborations, is spreading the word and generating both interest and awareness. As Lisa says, it is not about the individual, “you have to join at the hands and walk together.”

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“Where and how we can we do the best we can” – Tikki Hywood Trust
And the future?

The scary thing for Lisa is that the Tikki Hywood Trust has expanded on its own. As an entity, it has grown because the policies have had an impact on the ground and this is what makes a real difference to wildlife. “One day,” says Lisa, “I am not going to be here and I want to know that the work we have done will continue, and will continue to have an impact in a positive way”.

The Tikki Hywood Trust has the potential to continue this work because it is a multifaceted team that has developed over 22 years. It is not just people that are linked directly to the Trust but groups of people, from the police to the magistrates to the public prosecutor, Zimbabweans who want a heritage for tomorrow. “We have all come together, shared the passion and the drive and the determination,” says Lisa, and what she finds incredibly encouraging is that the “strength that we have presented to one another is what creates and achieves the results at the end of the day.”

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“This is a silent war and we don’t know how many tons are getting to the end-user and how many there are. The same goes for ivory, for every bust how many get passed?” – Tikki Hywood Trust

The Tikki Hywood Trust is leading by example. “Utilizing conservation and education as stepping stones towards a future where humans live in harmony with wildlife”. It is organisations like this that show us that wildlife touches everybody and that no matter who you are or where you live you can take responsibility for the world that you live in.

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Also read: Fascinating pangolin facts

Rhino orphans released into iSimangaliso

On Monday, three white rhino orphans were peacefully released into their new home within the iSimangaliso Wetland Park.

Survivors of mothers who were poached for their horns in various other Kwa-Zulu Natal game reserves, the male and two females are around five years old and have formed a close bond while being cared by dedicated Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife staff.

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The release of three white rhino orphans into their new home in the iSimangaliso Wetland Park ©iSimangaliso

According to iSimangaliso CEO Andrew Zaloumis, “We are very pleased that we can offer these three orphans a new home and brighter future. As a Park undertaking major ecosystems restoration, iSimangaliso offers an ideal habitat for them.  The reintroduction of historically occurring species is a critical part of this. Despite the severe drought in KZN, there are parts of iSimangaliso that have received decent rainfall, providing good grass, water and a softer, friendlier refuge for the orphans. iSimangaliso has a long-term conservation partnership with Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife, which is doing an excellent job rehabilitating rhino orphans. We thank them and the Peace Parks organisation – which funded the costs of this relocation – for making this possible.”

The iSimangaliso Wetland Park World Heritage Site has undergone an extensive rewilding programme over the past 15 years, and the ongoing rehabilitation of the habitat has enabled the reintroduction of all historically occurring species into the Park – lion, wild dog, cheetah, oribi, tsessebe, buffalo, elephant, giraffe, black and white rhino – with the exception of the eland. The drought placed a hold on the last of these planned relocations, but eland are now being sourced for introduction given improved conditions. This last historic step will complete the process.

Says Zaloumis, “The restocking, management and monitoring of many of our rare and endangered  species is primarily supported by participants in our Eco-Series events – like the iSimangaliso MTB 4 Day bike ride in August each year. This ‘safari from the saddle’ is the largest contributor to the Parks’ Rare and Endangered Species Fund.

These events enable visitors to engage with and discover iSimangaliso in unique ways while making a tangible difference to species conservation. Runners, riders, divers and adventurers are invited to explore the options to support conservation of rare and endangered species by participating in one of our superb annual events.”

New species of dwarf lemur discovered in Madagascar

In the forests of northern Madagascar, scientists have discovered a new species of dwarf lemur. Written by: Shreya Dasgupta for Mongabay

The newly described Ankarana or Sheth’s dwarf lemur is tiny, weighing just over 100 grams. Its body is only about 16 to 17 centimetres long, with an additional 16 centimetres long tail, making it one of the smallest lemurs in its genus Cheirogaleus.

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The newly described Ankarana dwarf lemur. Photos taken at Ankarana Special Reserve by Richard Randriamampionona. Photo courtesy of Cynthia L. Frasier et al, in Primate Conservation, 2016

The lemur has a grey body and a white underbelly, and its tiny hands and feet are lightly colored, the researchers report in a recent study published in the journal Primate Conservation.

The researchers have named the new dwarf lemur Cheirogaleus shethi after Brian Sheth, the Chair of the Board of the NGO Global Wildlife Conservation.

“Brian is deeply committed to biodiversity conservation worldwide, and is a leading philanthropist for species and ecosystem conservation,” the authors write in the paper. “He has supported many projects in Madagascar, including research and the establishment and management of nature reserves. His passion and drive to help save the diversity of life on our planet has been an inspiration to all around him.”

The lemur was first identified in 2014, but researchers have only just confirmed it as a distinct species by analyzing its DNA. The new lemur is separated from other species of dwarf lemurs both genetically, and geographically, the authors say.

So far, the Ankarana or Sheth’s dwarf lemur is known only from northern Madagascar, along the forest corridor from Ankarana Special Reserve east to the Analamerana Special Reserve, down to the Bekaraoka forest in the Loky-Manambato Protected Area. Much of this corridor lies within Madagascar’s system of protected areas, the researchers say, and effective management of the protected areas is essential to maintaining connectivity between different populations of the dwarf lemur.

Scientists are yet to determine its population and conservation status.

“Additional fieldwork is necessary to establish baseline data on population density and the extent of the range to determine to which IUCN Red List category this species belongs,” the authors write.

The researchers add that like the Sheth’s dwarf lemur, several other dwarf lemurs likely remain to be described.

Also read: Lemurs of Madagascar

Rhino Bombshell: SA Minister plans to permit trade in horn

In a somewhat bewildering announcement today, South African Environmental Affairs Minister Edna Molewa has declared that she plans to permit the trade in rhino horn domestically and, in what looks like a loophole big enough to drive a tractor through, the export internationally of horn for ‘personal purposes’. This after years of repeated attempts by her in court to resist applications by local rhino farmers to trade horn on the domestic market.

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©Simon Espley

Anyone wanting to take advantage of the proposed legislation will need to acquire the necessary permits, and the rhino horn has to be genetically profiled by a suitably registered scientific institution. Non-South African citizens and residents may also apply for the necessary permits, so long as their home country provides a letter stating that domestic legislation is in place to prevent the contravention of the relevant ‘provisions of CITES’.

Those wishing to export rhino horn (for ‘personal purposes’ only) are limited to two horns per person. Not long ago similarly flimsy regulations relating to trophy hunting were famously massaged by members of the trophy hunting industry and wildlife trafficking kingpin Chemlong Lemtongthai (currently residing in jail as a result), in order to illegally trade in rhino horn – by the use of Thai strippers and prostitutes posing as huntresses, each there to bag their rhino kill and export the horn as a ‘trophy’, again for ‘personal’ purposes.

Anybody in contravention of the proposed legislation will be fined up to R5 million or sent to jail for up to 5 years, or both. Repeat offenders will receive double those punishments.

The focus in this proposed legislation on permits to control this extremely lucrative industry could be a concern for informed conservationists – in a country that has a notoriously bad implementation of permit requirements and rampant and rising fraud and corruption amongst government officials.

Interested parties have 30 days to make representations or to object, to Ms Magdel Boshoff at MBoshoff@environment.gov.za

Read or download the relevant government gazette notice.

Also read: Farmed vs wild rhino horn – what the research tells us

Why conservation is failing

Free-roaming wildlife populations are crashing in many areas, and natural habitat is being destroyed at an alarming rate. There is a conservation war going on, and the other side is winning hands down – why is that?

For the sake of simplicity, I refer to the two sides in this war as the ‘Exploiters’ and the ‘Protectors’.  I do generalise enormously, please bear with me.

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Cartoon by ©Walter Pichler

The Exploiters have money, lots of it. They also have focus and the determination to do whatever it takes to achieve their goals – they will ruin entire ecosystems and communities in pursuit of a specific hardwood or mineral and kill animals in the most barbaric way to extract specific body parts. They will threaten, terrify and kill people and bribe whoever it takes. They research, plan and execute their extraction strategies with military precision and their leaders live in financial and legal twilight zones, protected by a ring of violence, corruption and morally bankrupt government officials, bankers, accountants and lawyers. They have hoovered up vast swathes of Earth’s bounty and they will continue to do so until there is nothing left.

Some of them live amongst you, although you may not recognise them in this light. Perhaps they are not involved in poaching (as you define it), or other obvious illegal exploitations, and so you don’t see them as exploiters. Perhaps they wear suits, and work in respected companies and governments.  Extraction industries such as mining, commercial fishing, hardwood logging and fossil fuel energy provide products that humans need, but many of them do so at massive cost to the environment – and leave taxpayers and rural communities to carry the cost. Great business model – bank the revenue and leave others to pay the bills.

The Protectors, on the other hand, are largely a ragtag, passionate bunch of do-gooders (myself included) all beavering away in various ways, driven by the strong belief that somehow, sometime, things will change.

Protectors are ALWAYS under-resourced. Try securing funding from banks, investment companies and the wealthy elite to save a species or wetland. On the other hand, go to the same places to fund a diamond mine or oil refinery – no problem. Why is that? In solving this riddle, perhaps you will come to better understand why we are in this mess and why the Exploiters are winning. Hands down.

Protectors often spend a good deal of time, energy and money passionately fighting each other in a glorious orgy of personal agendas. Social media has ramped up this phenomenon, providing a fertile breeding ground for Protectors to shout the odds, bicker and jockey for attention. Amongst the many committed and effective activists out there are a growing number of self-proclaimed online activists, some of whom extract precious donations to fund their lifestyles, many of whom have no clear strategy other than to pay their bills and feed their egos. At best these warriors preach to their close circle of disciples, at worst they confuse Joe Public with their emotional outbursts, and desensitize good people about the real conservation issues.

Some Protectors have organised themselves into groups and institutions – WWF, Conservation International and Greenpeace for example. Many of these do fine jobs, many on limited budgets, and are staffed by outstanding people – others have become bloated bureaucracies with high overheads. And again, these wildlife warriors fight tooth and nail for attention and funding, to feed personal careers and pay the overheads. And then there is CITES. For some reason, many Protectors don’t realise that CITES is an agreement between governments, politicians and businessmen about how much of nature can be consumed without completely destroying it. In other words, CITES represents the Exploiters, not the Protectors.

I could go on and on trying to summarise the chaotic world that is nature conservation. But I won’t. The industry is too wrapped up in personal agendas, lifestyle activists and destructive territorialism to ever be understood fully.

And therein lies the problem – Protectors operate in an underfunded environment with no industry cohesion or business model to speak of, driven largely by passion and dogged by infighting and personal agendas. Compare that to the focussed, ruthless Exploiter business model. In my experience, ruthless strategy trumps misguided passion hands down. And while Protectors run in circles, the Exploiters continue the massacre – all the time operating in the shadows, perfecting their extraction techniques and hoovering up the spoils.

Finding Africa’s rarest parrot – Cape Parrots in Magoebaskloof

As if finding the Cape parrot – Africa’s rarest – is not enough of a challenge, my wife and I went about this daunting task accompanied by our 20-month-old toddler!

Renate and I always try to fit in a bit of quality time together before heading to the coast for the greater family Christmas obligations.  This year we decided on a 4-night stay in Magoebaskloof, to find said rarest parrot and do some serious birding (avec our bundle of joy and mischief).

cape parrot
Cape parrot adult female ©Anton Kruger

Our birding mission for the trip was to get photos of some forest specials and to spend time with South Africa’s only endemic parrot – and to get photos of it in the process!

Cape parrots (Poicephalus robustus) are threatened by a cocktail of threats including illegal capture, disease and low breeding success due to the large scale destruction of their mist-belt forest homes (they depend on yellowwood trees for nesting sites and food). So yes, they are seriously special – and being a forest bird, really tough to get good views of.

We stayed at Kuhestan Organic Farm, a perfectly located farm if you are into birding.

green twinspot bird
Green twinspot ©Anton Kruger

After arrival, we set out from the farm to explore the immediate surroundings. The going was slow…really slow!  Our daughter wanted to play with every stick, rock, creepy-crawly or whatever she could find – we did about 300m in more than an hour and didn’t even get into the forest patch! Renate and I looked at each other with large eyes – how are we going to do this??  We heard a narina trogon and a buff-spotted flufftail calling tantalisingly from the forest patch, but we couldn’t get that far. But at least our daughter had some fun!

african emerald cuckoo
African emerald cuckoo ©Anton Kruger

The next morning, I headed for the forest with Paul (a bird guide from the area).  My tactic was to go with a guide who would show me the productive sites, that would give me a better feel for the area, and then during the next three days bird these areas with my wife and daughter.

Paul and I enjoyed awesome views of narina trogon, African emerald cuckoo, orange ground-thrush (although high up in a tree), yellow-streaked greenbull, black-fronted bushshrike, olive woodpecker, Barratt’s warbler and the highlight of the morning – awesome views of a buff-spotted flufftail! I messed up the photo though, but was really happy with an excellent view of the bird!

narina trogon
Narina trogon ©Anton Kruger

We also visited the beautiful Debegeni waterfalls, where we picked up a rarity/ palearctic vagrant, the grey wagtail! It was really skittish, but luckily I was able to get a decent photo.

In the next few days we birded the area and I was able to get photographs of most of the forest specials, except the Cape parrot – although we did glimpse a few brief fly-bys…

We also visited Kurisa Moya Nature Lodge, one of our favourite forest birding destinations, and added photos of forest canary, green twinspot, swee waxbill and African firefinch to our list.

We really enjoyed our stay at Kuhestan Organic Farm.  The owners provided us with fresh bread and milk daily, as well as a freshly harvested mixture of berries, which our daughter loved!  The gardens and lawns are exquisite, and the cottages really comfortable.  It must be one of the best located farms if you are into birding!  Highly recommended.

But still, a decent Cape parrot sighting evaded us, and we were already in the post-lunch session of our last day…

cape parrot
Cape parrot male ©Anton Kruger

Our luck changed on the last afternoon! It is crazy how often it happens that on the last stretch you get your target!  A mere 10 minutes’ drive from Kuhestan we came across a huge flock of more than 40 Cape parrots – feeding in the Mexican cherry trees alongside the main road! We had checked out this area during the previous 3 days, but without luck – and now they are here, giving us a show!  We spent the next hour or so with the flock, they got used to our presence and moved lower down in the trees, which of course meant better photos! Such a privilege spending time with Cape parrots – a moment we will never forget.

 

birding in the magoebaskloof
Birding in the magoebaskloof ©Anton Kruger
cape parrot
Cape parrot juvenile ©Anton Kruger

We did well, especially our little daughter.  She enjoyed the forest a lot, and absolutely loved the Cape parrots – I think probably because it was the only forest bird she actually saw!

Magoebaskloof is on your way if you are visiting central Kruger National Park or the Lowveld from Johannesburg, so make sure to spend some time there and explore these wonderful forests and waterfalls.

Also read: Counting the Cape parrot

Hunting: the colour game is over

The breeding of wildlife to produce unusually coloured animals, in the hope that hunters would pay a lot more to shoot them, has fallen flat in a spectacular manner — with the practice being widely condemned. Written by: Stafford Thomas for Financial Mail 

If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. The old adage has become a painful reality for speculators who stampeded into the colour-variant game sector.

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Falling gold price: A golden wildebeest, right, with a herd of split wildebeest in Limpopo. ©BLOOMBERG

Luring them were rocketing prices being paid at game auctions for colour variants bred in captivity and not found in the wild. Described as “unnatural freaks” by Peter Flack, one of South Africa’s foremost game experts, colour variants include black impala, white impala, gold wildebeest, white gemsbok and king wildebeest.

“Buyers grabbed anything they could at auctions,” says Johan Vorster, a Vleissentraal game auctioneer.

The idea was that hunters would pay more to shoot unusually coloured trophy animals. But what the buyers were getting into had all the makings of a classic pyramid scheme: early entrants make big money. Latecomers lose their boots.

This is exactly how it played out. By early 2016 prices of colour variants were already sliding. They went on to collapse.

It is not that there weren’t warning signs. As early as 2011 the International Council for Game & Wildlife Conservation (CIC) declared colour variants a manipulation of wild game and said they should not be hunted.

Average auction prices supplied by Game & Hunt of colour variants tell a sad tale. Among extreme examples, the average price paid for white impala in 2014 was R8.2m. In 2016 the average was R48,333.

Other colour-variant prices have suffered a similar fate. Of black impalas, which sold at an average of R384,964 in 2014, SA-based CIC executive Gerhard Damm says: “I doubt you will get more than R10,000 for a black impala ram.”

With colour-variant animals, a supply was created for which there is no real demand where it counts most — from hunters, says Lizanne Nel, conservation manager at the 45,000-member SA Hunters & Game Conservation Society (SA Hunters).

It is not only because of their unnatural nature that hunters shun colour variants.

“Most hunters want a responsible hunt,” says Nel. “You can’t have it when an animal is bred in captivity.”

Virtually all leading foreign hunting organisations have adopted this stance. Among them is the influential US-based Boone & Crockett Club, which has voiced strong opposition to the hunting of bred animals.

Nel believes the collapse in colour-variant animal prices is primarily thanks to advocacy work done by SA Hunters and other hunting and conservation bodies. Not all industry players fully agree.

Among them is game breeder Jacques Malan. He concedes “badmouthing by hunters” has done a lot of damage, but argues the biggest problem has been the devastating drought.

“There was no natural vegetation,” says Malan. “Breeders faced the huge expense of buying fodder.”

“The drought had a big impact,” says Vorster. “Some breeders had to sell at any price.”

Malan believes recent good rains will restore the colour-variant market’s fortunes. “The natural vegetation is back. We will see a lot of confidence return.”

Nel disagrees. The drought, she says, may have contributed to the collapse but the real damage has been done by the realisation that there is no viable market for colour variants.

“The colour-variant game is over,” says Flack. Damm agrees.

But Damm, Flack and Nel stress that the colour-variant controversy has dealt SA’s game industry another big reputational blow. It follows the huge damage done by the “canned lion” hunting debacle.
Canned lion hunting involves releasing captive-bred lion into small enclosures where they are shot with ease by “hunters”. It is a practice of which Flack has said: “It is not hunting, it is slaughter.”

The world agrees. The US has banned the import of lion trophies from SA.

The captive breeding of buffalo for hunting

There is another area of concern for conservationists: captive breeding of buffalo with exceptional horn-spread widths. Huge prices are paid for these animals. In September a new record for a single animal was set when a buffalo bull was sold for R168m. Four years earlier the record was R26m.

Buffalo ranchers claim they are breeding back top genetics ruined by reckless hunting in the past. Nel is not buying it.

“The principles are the same as those applying to colour variants,” says Nel. “Animals are dependent on humans. You can’t hunt them and then say it was a fair hunt.”

“You would think SA’s game industry is on a mission to self-destruct,” says Damm. Foreign hunter numbers coming to SA underscore his concern.

In 2014, the latest year for which data is available, 7,638 foreign hunters came to SA, less than half the best-yet figures of 16,394 in 2006.

The big winner is Namibia, a country free of canned hunting and colour variants.

“Foreign-hunter numbers to Namibia grew from 6,300 in 2007 to 23,768 in 2014,” says Flack

Also read: Recreational hunting: 50 years of scientific research

Lion bones: SA public has no time to contest sale

 South Africa is about to permit the export of lion bones to produce fake tiger wine but has given the public almost no time to object. The permit will allow an annual export of 800 skeletons to Asia. Written by: Don Pinnock

The Department of Environmental Affairs made the decision without public consultation but was forced to hold a stakeholder meeting to comply with CITES quota conditions. This was clearly planned as a once-off meeting, but delegates managed to get the department to open a two-week window for public comment, ending on Thursday [February 2].

lion bone trade south africa tiger wine
©Audrey Delsink

The meeting, publically announced on 25 January leaves virtually no time for popular comment or intervention, so the proposal will probably go ahead. The DEA also plans to appoint a research group to monitor the export of lion bones.

“The decision is misguided and shameful,” said Audrey Delsink, Africa’s director of the Humane Society International. “Breeding captive lions is not only cruel and contrary to the global shift against captive wildlife, but is a potential threat to wild lions.”

According to Pippa Hankinson, the producer of the film Blood Lions, the quota appears to lack the requisite scientific basis and was arrived at without consideration of proper welfare or conservation protocols. There was no formal document to support how the quota of 800 skeletons was arrived at or how it would be enforced.

“South Africa [is showing] complete disregard for the overwhelming response by key global conservation leaders calling for the termination of captive lion breeding. In addition, this shocking industry is already adversely affecting Brand South Africa.”

The move is tacit support for the canned lion industry presently hurting from a US ban on the importation of lion trophies from South Africa where captive-bred lions are something of a black hole.

The government’s 2015 Biodiversity Management Plan mentions captive-bred only in passing, saying: “there is intense controversy over the merits and ethics of the captive breeding and subsequent release for hunting of captive-bred lions, although it remains legal to do so.” A CITES report notes that trade is fine, “if the relevant authorities are satisfied that certain conditions are met, above all that trade will not be detrimental to the survival of the species in the wild.”

In dealing merely with the impact of captive-bred lions on wild breeding stock, these reports ignore ethical and welfare issues and relegate lions to merely domestic farming stock. The permitting of the export of 800 lion carcases simply underlines this perspective.

Also read: Lions, bones and bullets

Chinese traders going after Africa’s donkeys

According to several sources, there is a growing demand in Chinese markets for donkey pelts, and some rural areas in Africa are reportedly being stripped of free-roaming donkeys to feed the demand.

chinese traders go after African donkeys for their pelts
©NSPCA

Some might view the removal of donkeys as a good thing, because donkeys are not indigenous and can cause damage to vegetation, especially in arid areas. But in fact these donkeys are most often owned by rural villagers who rely on them for transport, food and trade.

In some African countries the exporting of donkey pelts to China has led to local scarcity and driven up the price of donkeys, making them too expensive for many rural villagers. As a result, countries such as Niger and Burkina Faso have banned donkey exports, although some countries are considering formalising donkey product exports as a lucrative industry. In South Africa, the National Council of Societies for the Prevention of Cruelty against Animals (NSPCA) is investigating cases of cruelty, with donkeys being rounded up and kept in appalling circumstances, often leading to them being weak and emaciated – before being bludgeoned to death and skinned. The NSPCA’s Mpho Mokoena: “People are using a hammer to hit them. When they fall down, they don’t even wait to see if the donkey is dead and just start skinning it.”

Chinese traders go after African donkeys for their pelts
©NSPCA

Donkey hides are boiled to produce a gelatine that is said to have anti-ageing properties‚ used to combat insomnia, bleeding, dizziness and aid in improving blood circulation.

*The pictures featured in this post appeared on the NSCPA Facebook page and were taken at an illegal slaughter site in Sani Pass, South Africa, where 35 carcasses were reportedly recently found, and 2 people arrested.

Lion skeletons – 800 to be exported annually

CAPE TOWN, South Africa (19 January 2017)—A decision to allow export of 800 captive-bred lion skeletons from South Africa is coming under fire from Humane Society International and the producer of the film Blood Lions. By Blood Lions 

lion-blood-lions
©Pippa Hankinson for Blood Lions

Yesterday the South African National Biodiversity Institute, which is the scientific authority to the Department of Environmental Affairs, announced its recommendation to institute an annual export quota of 800 captive-bred lion skeletons, traded in large part for use in traditional medicine to southeast Asian countries like Laos, Vietnam and Thailand. The decision to make this recommendation was made prior to public consultation and without the appropriate scientific basis required under South Africa’s obligations under the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora. The DEA has now opened a two week comment period – ending on 2 February 2017 – to collect input on the recommended quota.

Humane Society International and Blood Lions strongly urge the DEA to establish a zero export quota, thereby suspending trade in captive-bred lion parts given the absence of scientific evidence that such trade is not detrimental to the survival of wild lions, as required for export under CITES. The captive breeding of lions for the purpose of killing them to supply the bone trade is ethically unacceptable and seriously harms South Africa’s global image.

The decision follows an ongoing controversy about South Africa’s lion breeding industry that promotes cub petting, lion walks, canned lion hunting while practising euthanasia to supply lion bone and other parts.

lion-blood-lions
©Pippa Hankinson for Blood Lions

The South African government will permit lion skeletons to be sourced from the natural deaths of captive-bred lions and also from lions euthanized, as well as remains of lions trophy-hunted by South African and international hunters.

Audrey Delsink, executive director of the Africa office for Humane Society International, said “The Department of Environmental Affair’s decision to support the trade in lion parts is misguided and shameful. Breeding captive lions is not only cruel and goes against the global shift against captive wildlife, but South Africa’s captive-bred lion bone trade is a potential threat to wild lions. Conservation efforts must focus on protecting lions in the wild, and not prop up facilities where they are bred for slaughter and canned hunting. Unless research proves otherwise, caution must prevail and trade in these parts must be completely suspended given South Africa’s commitments under international law.”

Pippa Hankinson, the producer of Blood Lions, said “Blood Lions is deeply concerned by this announcement from the South African government. The quota appears to lack the requisite scientific basis, and there has been no apparent consideration of proper welfare or conservation protocols. South Africa has shown complete disregard for the overwhelming response by key global conservation leaders calling for the ‘termination of captive lion breeding for commercial, non-conservation purposes and the hunting of captive-bred lions and other predators’ at the IUCN World Conservation Congress in September last year. In addition, this shocking industry is already adversely affecting brand South Africa. We urge the public to call for a suspension of trade in captive lions and their bones, and to bring an end to the captive lion breeding and canned hunting industry.”

FACTS:

·         The South African government estimates are that there are approximately 6,000 captive African lions in South Africa, bred for various economic purposes. However, other experts reveal the number is likely closer to 8,000.

·         The recently appointed Chief Executive Officer of South African Tourism, Mr Sisa Ntshona, has spoken out against the petting of lion cubs and similar exploitative activities.

·         A 2015 film titled Blood Lions exposed the true nature of the lion breeding industry in South Africa, revealing poor living conditions, false pretences under which breeders contract volunteers to care for the animals, misleading information provided to tourists about the conservation benefit of lion breeding, and lack of appropriate regulation.

·         The African Lion Working Group has stated that “sport hunting of lions that occur in fenced enclosures and are not self-sustaining does not provide any demonstrated positive benefit to wild lion conservation efforts and therefore cannot be claimed to be conservation.”

·         At the September 2016 IUCN World Conservation Congress, the world’s top scientists, government representatives, non-profit organizations, and experts adopted motion 009 on terminating the hunting of captive-bred lions and other predators and captive breeding for commercial, non-conservation purposes.

·         In November of 2015, the majority of the members of the Professional Hunters’ Association of South Africa passed a motion that “disassociates PHASA with the captive-bred lion industry until such a time that the industry can convince PHASA and the IUCN that the practice is beneficial to lion conservation.”

A closer look at pangolins and the pangolin men

Imagine the possibility of walking with pangolins. Adrian Steirn’s recent photographic series The Pangolin Men captures a unique and exceptional scenario of beasts and men. The images are captivating. The skin of the minders glows as they walk alongside these armour-plated, cat-size mammals. It is intriguing to wake up and discover the possibility of something that you never knew existed. I scratched a little to find out more about these images, about pangolins and the Pangolin Men.Written by Andrew Hofmeyer 

pangolin-men
©Adrian Steirn, Pangolin and Pangolin Man

Pangolin: The Most Trafficked Mammal in the World

Let’s not beat around the bush. This diminutive mammal is under threat of extinction before most people even know it is in danger. For pangolins, this is the reality. There are eight species of pangolin, four in Asia and another four in Africa. The appetite of the Asian black market has seen millions of these mammals butchered for their meat and their scales. While the flesh is considered a delicacy, the scales – made of keratin – are used in a powdered form to treat anything from stomach cramps to impotency.

ground-pangolin
©Tikki Hywood Trust, A Ground Pangolin

In June 2016 a shipment of 4 tonnes of pangolin scales was seized in Hong Kong. Pause for a second to process this figure which represents a conservative estimate of 10-20% of the actual trade. One shipment from one place. Not of heavy flesh and blood wriggling animal but dry, lifeless, nail-like scales. While a live pangolin, bones and all, can weigh between 2 and 35 kgs, the dry weight in scales is a fraction of this. 4 tonnes of confiscated scales represents between 1100 and 6600 wild animals. In Pangolin numbers this drop in an ocean of illegal trafficking represents the demise of a species.

The Tikki Hywood Trust

Lisa Hywood founded the Tikki Hywood Trust in 1994 in the memory of her father who she says “looked to the future with optimism”. It is this ethos that drives the Trust’s work, an ethos says Lisa, that has not changed in over 20 years.

pangolin-men
©Adrian Steirn, Pangolin Man

The Trust has a three-pronged approach, Conservation, Legislation and Education and they all have an important role to play. “It’s no good,” says Lisa “if the law enforcement officers don’t know what the penalties are or the judges aren’t aware of the sentences”. Education for the Tikki Hywood Trust means a focus on ALL stake-holders, the public (especially children) and conservation personal as well as law enforcement from police officers to judges.

In addition to this, the Trust focuses on changing legislation itself. Lisa pointed out that South Africa has the strongest legislation for pangolin trafficking. If caught in possession of a pangolin the fine in South Africa is a whopping US$ 694000 and 10 years imprisonment. However, she drove her point home by asking me if I knew how many convictions there had been? “None?” I ventured. “Exactly”. There is a massive disconnect between the laws, the judiciary, law enforcement and conservation. If all stakeholders are not informed and aware then criminals and poachers simply fall through the cracks.

pangolin-man
©Adrian Steirn, Pangolin Men

In Zimbabwe, on the other hand, the approach of educating all stakeholders has yielded tangible results. “We have 9 years on first offence, 11 years on second offence and a $5000 fine. In 2015, 47 pangolin poachers were sentenced to 9 years in jail”. Magistrate Tendai Mahwe said, “This is a serious offence which is now prevalent and deterrent sentences are called for if pangolins are not to face extinction”. With sentences like this being passed, it results in a substantial deterrent for would-be poachers.

Lisa is adamant that conservation is all about awareness. Knowing about the plight of pangolins, who to contact and what to do translates directly into saving pangolin lives across the globe. “Conservation is about all of us, not just one animal. We need all the animals”. In addition to this Lisa says that for her, conservation is a team effort. Enter the Pangolin Men and Adrian Steirn.

©Adrian Steirn, Tikki Hywood Trust Pangolin Minders

The Pangolin Men

“It was a moment where time stood still,” says Lisa Hywood recalling her first encounter with a trafficked pangolin. “I received this foul-smelling sack and inside was this heavy lump. When I opened it there was this one eye looking at me. It was the saddest most enduring eye that I have ever experienced. In that one look, I felt that she understood me and I had no idea about her”.

pangolin-men
©Adrian Steirn, Tikki Hywood Trust Pangolin Minders

This particular pangolin, a female who Lisa called Negomo, survived the early days of the Trust’s ignorance. Through working with her, Lisa realised that pangolins, like baby elephants, needed specialised one-on-one care and attention to successfully rehabilitate them and return them to the wild. “I would spend many many hours just foraging and walking and looking and watching and studying these animals to see if I could get an inner idea as to what we were missing, why were these animals so difficult to keep in captivity”. Lisa realised fairly quickly that their best chance of recovery and survival meant being in as natural an environment as possible.

©Adrian Steirn, A confiscated Temminck’s ground pangolin seized from poachers being rehabilitated by the Tikki Hywood Trust

“A pangolin will forage from anywhere between 3 to 4 plus hours,” she says “so it is quite a labour-intensive job”. Rescued pangolins are often extremely compromised, suffering from stress, malnutrition and dehydration. The pangolin minder accompanies the pangolin into the bush so that they can forage without being disturbed. A relationship naturally develops between the minders and the pangolins.

The Pangolin Men are employed by the Tikki Hywood Trust who screen and vet candidates. “It is a process that is fairly lengthy and stringent and we look for specific qualities in each individual”. Individuals have then trained in all things pangolin. Every day the pangolins are weighed, observations are recorded, the temperature, weather conditions and the movement of the pangolins. Lisa, resident zoologist Ellen Connelly and local and international vets are co-authoring papers about pangolins. The data collected is being used to make a real contribution to our knowledge and understanding of pangolin behaviour.

tikki-hywood
© Adrian Steirn, Tikki Hywood Trust: Sleeping crates being prepared for the pangolin

The work that the Pangolin Men do is fundamental to the lives of these animals. It is the relationship between these men and the pangolins that is so captivating. Today there are 20 of these Pangolin Men.

Collaboration is Key

For the last three years, the Tikki Hywood Trust has been working with Patrick Mavros Jewellers to create a range of pangolin-inspired jewellery. Through this collaboration, Adrian Steirn was invited to capture the images of these men as they walked with the pangolins.

pangolin-man
©Adrian Steirn, Pangolin Man

Having a natural affinity with animals naturally lead Adrian to wildlife photography and today he travels around the world capturing rarely seen and exotic animals. On shooting the Pangolin Men Adrian says “It was amazing. I’ve been shooting in the bush for many years and I have never seen a pangolin in the wild. To go in there and have an opportunity to get access to photograph those men and what they do every single day was truly something that I cherished”. ­­­

“I always wanted to tell stories that create positive change” says Adrian. To translate the world into a single image that conveys at a glance the importance of the subject matter is a huge challenge. “I wanted to ensure that people sat up and looked and watched and understood and incentivise people who may not be very green or conservation focussed to be enthralled by the beauty of the natural world and I guess, let art pull them into the space where they cared for the first time”.

© Adrian Steirn, Pangolin Minders

The result is the series of photographs called the Pangolin Men which appeared on Steirn’s project “Beautiful News”. The photos were launched in London alongside the Patrick Mavros Jewellery collection and a percentage of proceeds from both collections will go directly to the Tikki Hywood Trust.

Looking to the Future with Optimism

Despite working with these creatures for over twenty years, Lisa says that the first time they made it into the news was in 2015 and 2016. The focus is always on the flagship species. While this is important and needed it also leaves a whole host of animals in the blind-spot of mainstream media. The pangolin is one of these casualties and bears the unfortunate title of the most trafficked animal in the world.

pangolin-minder
©Adrian Steirn, Pangolin Man

In October of 2016 at the CITES convention in Johannesburg, all eight pangolin species were bumped up into Appendix 1, meaning that all trade in the animals is prohibited by international law. I asked Lisa Hywood if she was pleased about this and was rather surprised and sobered at her response. “The fact that we are only doing this now means that we have already failed them”.

It is not all doom and gloom though and she continued to say that, as an African, she was incredibly proud to see the African delegates take responsibility and act unanimously in favour of protecting these animals. When I asked her what people in cities, at home, in other countries – people who are disconnected from the ‘wild’ in their day to day lives – can do to contribute towards the process of conservation, she replied without hesitation:

“wildlife touches each and every one of us, take responsibility”

pangolin-men
©Adrian Steirn, Tikki Hywood Trust, Pangolin Minder

Kruger Walking Magic

This is a trip report of our five-night stay in the Kruger National Park, which included the three-night Mphongolo Backpack Trail – a trail that not only takes you into the largest wilderness area in the Kruger but also takes your soul to a deeper level than you could ever have imagined.

Our travelling group, consisting of family and friends, left Pretoria at 3 am on the day of travel. The Kruger is less than five hours drive from Gauteng, but when you are dealing with a group of people with such an intense obsession for the bush and an uncontrollable itch to get there, this is quite a late start.

We planned to enter the park at Orpen gate and take the Timbavati River road to spend the night camping at Letaba Rest Camp. At this stage, we all had ‘leopard fever’, and we thought that taking this route would maximise our chances of seeing our favourite feline creatures. Unfortunately, we didn’t see any leopards, but we did have a magnificent sighting of the notorious honey badger.

Kruger-National-Park-Mphongolo
Beautiful view over the Letaba River ©Anton Kruger

The trail begins

The next morning we left Letaba camp at sunrise and headed north towards Shingwedzi Rest Camp, where we met our excellent guides, Brenden and André, for the start of the Mphongolo Backpack Trail. They gave us a short talk on what to expect on this unique trail, whereafter we did some last-minute backpack checks, packed the trailer and headed further north towards Sirheni Rest Camp. En route, we veered off onto a small, dusty track – and we all unanimously got the sense that the wilderness had begun…

Mphongolo Kruger National Park
Zebras through the dust at the Mooiplaas water hole ©Anton Kruger

After about 15km on this track, the driver stopped – it was time for our trail to begin. You feel a bit vulnerable and exposed when a SANParks vehicle drops you off and leaves you there alone – in the largest wilderness area in the park (all 150 000ha of it) with nothing except your backpack.

Kruger-National-Park-Mphongolo-Trail
Just one of our incredible camping spots ©Anton Kruger

But, after a brief safety talk by our guides, we soon realised that this is different than your usual visit to a game reserve. Brenden explained the feeling well: “Normally when you visit a park, you are only observers.  You look at the wildlife, but you are not part of it. With this backpacking trail, you become a participant.

You become part of the wildlife, and are exposed.” After this touching introduction, we started our walk towards the Mphongolo River, which would be our life-line for the following four days.

Harsh reality checks in the wild

Our afternoon walk took us down the desperately dry Mphongolo River – our first reality check on the trail. We found a suitable camping spot for the evening, but there was one problem – after a lot of digging for water, there was only dry sand. This was our first taste of the rampant drought that the Kruger National Park is currently experiencing.

Kruger-National-Park-Mphongolo-Trail
Enjoying an afternoon siesta on the trail ©Anton Kruger

We made a plan and emptied our water bottles into a container, and the verdict was that we should have enough water for the night and following morning. The next day, we would continue our urgent search for water. But, the relaxed evening that we had planned developed into reality check number two…

…At 3 am that night, we heard some strange and very loud noises next to our little tents. Whatever it was, it was big! At first, I first thought it was lions, or maybe elephants. Brenden even believed that it could be black rhinos fighting at one stage.  As the noises got closer, we saw that it was two hippo bulls having a full-blown fight!

Kruger-National-Park-stars
Enjoying the milky way at a night-stop ©Francois du Plessis

In reality, this could have been a life-threatening situation, but the guides handled it in a very professional manner to ensure that we all stayed safe. Scary as it was and shocked as we were, the next morning we were able to follow the blood trail – this was a serious fight, and the closest they came was four metres from our tents!  We were lucky to survive. On a positive note though:  if there were hippos around, there must’ve been water not too far away!

Wilderness backpacking at its best

For the following three days, we followed the course of the river in a leisurely manner, enjoying sightings of large buffalo herds and numerous old buffalo bulls. Elephant dung was everywhere, and we saw their spoor frequently too. We saw African wild dog tracks and had many more awesome, exciting sightings – we even encountered a leopard in broad daylight on one of the afternoon walks!

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As close to hippos as we would like to be! ©Anton Kruger

We learned about the trees, the elephant teeth, the porcupine dung, and how to measure the stride of an animal by looking at the tracks and everything in between. Digging for water in the river and using the dug-out ‘wells’ the elephants had created was a memorable daily event.

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Brenden Pienaar, our guide, teaches us about animals’ stride length by looking at their tracks ©Anton Kruger
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Getting a closer look at some elephant teeth ©Anton Kruger

The birding highlight for me was a family of Grey Penduline-Tits – they weigh only six grams!  I also heard the coolest plant name ever – have you heard of a “Northern fluffy-flowered Jackal-coffee”? What an incredible name!

The trail is not a strenuous one, but what it lacks in strenuousness it makes up for in serenity. One day we had brunch at a fantastic spot alongside the river, and we promptly decided to camp there for the night. That afternoon we took our walk without our backpacks.

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Taking a leisurely afternoon river stroll without our backpacks ©Anton Kruger

We also enjoyed some quiet time alone. Sitting next to the river and staring down at it watching darkness creeping closer is total relaxation. It is in these quiet moments with nature when you realise what is important in life, and how we should push not to just ‘exist’ but to ‘live’! These are the opportunities for peaceful introspection that the trail offers.

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Spending some quality, peaceful time next to the river ©Anton Kruger

Highlights of the trail

What is the ultimate highlight of such a backpacking trail?  For me, it was being part of the ecosystem, without a watch or cellphone, without any human evidence anywhere, no roads, no showers, nothing – and being in the presence of big game while experiencing the wilderness.  There are some hair-raising and heart-pumping experiences along the way that make you feel alive – and then there is also some much needed quiet time to reflect…

Dinner time at an impromptu camp ©Anton Kruger
The birding highlight – A Grey Penduline Tit! ©Anton Kruger
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Team members collecting water from a hole dug by an elephant! ©Anton Kruger

On the last morning, we were greeted by our friendly SANParks guide with a pleasant surprise.  A cooler box full of ice-cold beer!  A Castle Lite had never tasted this good before! Cheers to the guides for an unbelievable few days!

Africa Geographic Travel

About the author

Anton-KrugerAnton lives in Pretoria, South Africa, and works in his family’s property development and investment business. He and his wife Renate both have a passion for wildlife, with a special interest in birds.

 

Supernatural South Luangwa

“Turn left. Continue along the road, through a dry riverbed. When the road forks, keep to the left.” We were 371km from home, six hours into our journey, and at the bottom of page two of a three-page printout of detailed instructions describing how to get to South Luangwa National Park in Zambia.

We weren’t taking the usual route into the park. We’d decided to take a more adventurous approach, entering the park from the north, down the Muchinga Escarpment. The directions were explicit: “The road over the escarpment requires a high clearance, four-wheel drive and low range. The road is seldom used. Waiting for help if you break down might take days.”

The 450km drive took us eight hours to complete. One 12km stretch down the escarpment took an hour to cover. I spent most of that time with my foot firmly on an imaginary brake as my husband negotiated the steep and rocky descent.

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Elephants crossing the Luangwa River at sunset © Peter Geraerdts

Teeming with wildlife

The Luangwa Valley marks the end of the Great Rift Valley. The Muchinga Escarpment forms the northern and western boundary of the Luangwa Valley and South Luangwa National Park. Starting in Miombo woodland, the escarpment slopes down through Mopane woodland to the valley floor. This is covered in swathes of grassland, which ultimately become the floodplains of the Luangwa River. Most of the park is on the western banks of the Luangwa River, which is its lifeblood.

South Luangwa is probably one of the most unspoilt natural habitats remaining in Africa. Founded as a game reserve in 1938, this 9,059km² area became a national park in 1972. It has some of the highest concentrations of animals on the continent.

Home to around 60 animal species, the park supports herds of elephant and buffalo that often number into the hundreds. The Luangwa River is also home to multitudes of crocodiles and hippopotamus. There are over 400 species of bird, including 39 types of raptor and 47 migrant species.

In addition to the abundant wildlife, the changing seasons add another dimension to South Luangwa’s richness. The dry, bare winter bushveld gives way to a lush, green wonderland in the rainy summer months.

Marvellous Mfuwe

There are two main areas of South Luangwa National Park that are accessible to visitors: the Mfuwe sector and the Nsefu sector. We had the privilege of visiting both. We started near Mfuwe Gate, the main entrance to the park, which has a bridge across the Luangwa River.

This is an ideal place for less experienced safari visitors to start, as game concentrations are high. However, it’s also the busiest part of the park. At times it can get a bit frenzied, as safari vehicles jockey to get the best views at lion kills or wild dog sightings.

Our first port of call was Track & Trail River Camp, a short distance from the Mfuwe Gate. The highlights of our stay here were the two dramatic lion kills we witnessed on our evening drives. Both victims were pregnant female impalas. They must have been mere hours away from giving birth. To see the babies being eaten before they had drawn breath was a stark reminder of the savagery of the African bush.

On the second evening, my husband decided to skip the game drive. However, he didn’t miss out on the wildlife. While napping in our chalet, he was rudely awoken by a rattle of the door handle. It was a clever baboon trying to get into the room. My husband’s shout dissuaded the intruder, but he could hear it trying all the other chalet doors, in the hope of making a raid on an unsecured room.

Abandoning his nap, my husband decided to laze by the pool, which is raised about four metres above the ground. Emerging from the water after a refreshing dip, he discovered he was almost head to head with a herd of elephants.

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Thanks to the high concentrations of prey animals, game drives in South Luangwa are likely to deliver predators too © Shenton Safaris

Deeper into South Luangwa

From Mfuwe, we moved deeper into the park to the Nsefu sector. The atmosphere here is remote, quiet and slightly more exclusive. Some of the most experienced guides in the Luangwa Valley work in the Nsefu sector, and it’s probably also the most game-intensive area of the park. It’s known in particular for exceptional leopard sightings.

Lodges and camps in this part of South Luangwa are only open in the dry season, from early May to the beginning of November. Because lodges here aren’t open all year, the animals don’t have constant exposure to people. They are less accustomed to vehicles and visitors, so the game viewing feels more natural.

We stayed at three stunning lodges in Nsefu, each special in its own way. Tafika Camp is on the banks of the Luangwa River, just outside the park boundaries.

We took drives into the park with co-owner and safari manager Bryan Jackson, who has been guiding in Luangwa for more than 20 years. On one of them, a group of four young male lions were happy for us to park just a hair’s breadth away while we sat watching them relax in the shade.

One evening during dinner at Tafika, the first rains of the season arrived – a welcome relief from the oppressive heat. The next morning, we found strange sliding prints all around our chalet. Luangwa’s infamous sticky black cotton soil becomes exceptionally slippery when wet, and it appeared that hippos had been skating around in the mud while we slept.

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Enjoying views of the Luangwa River and its resident hippos on a walking safari © Shenton Safaris
Elephants move like ghosts through the twilight in a leadwood forest © Peter Geraerdts
Elephants move like ghosts in the twilight of a leadwood forest © Peter Geraerdts

Hiding out with the locals

On the west bank of the Luangwa River, inside South Luangwa National Park, are Shenton Safaris’ Kaingo and Mwamba camps. To save ourselves a long drive, we left our vehicle at Tafika Camp and canoed a short distance across the river. We clambered up the bank on the other side and into a waiting safari vehicle.

Derek Shenton, who created the camps, took us on a tour of three of his famous hides. The first was a permanently anchored boat in the river, facing a bank where a large colony of carmine bee-eaters have excavated their nests. We sat in the hide, watching the birds swoop over the water, darting in and out of their burrows to feed their young.

At Mwamba camp, we were concealed directly in front of a waterhole, at eye level with impalas, kudu, buffalos and warthogs as they took turns to drink. We were so close that we could see and hear drops of water falling from their mouths between sips. Guinea fowl, Lilian’s lovebirds and weavers darted between the animals.

At the third hide, we were almost close enough to touch the oxpeckers hopping along the backs of a large pod of hippos. As we sat watching the hippos and their nursery of youngsters, a family of elephants, also accompanied by several babies, came to drink just a few metres in front of us. Although they appeared oblivious to our presence, I felt that the piercing gaze of the matriarch occasionally seemed to look directly through the hide and straight into my eyes.
On drives at Kaingo, we spotted so many lions that we were in danger of becoming blasé about them. To top it all, we had a fabulous sighting of a leopard stretched out on a tree branch. When we came back to check on her later, we found her feeding on a kill she’d left concealed in the undergrowth while she slept.

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A leopard guards its kill © Peter Geraerdts
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Carmine bee-eaters nest in colonies on the banks of the Luangwa River © Peter Geraerdts

Wild dogs and dagga boys

We paddled back across the river from Kaingo, collected our car, and drove on to Nsefu Camp. Built in 1951, before South Luangwa had even been declared a national park, it’s situated on a picturesque bend of the Luangwa River.

This spot is perfect in two ways. Firstly, a well-positioned chair in the shade makes for a very scenic location to read, relax and look out for local wildlife. Secondly, and more importantly, the camp is ideally positioned to catch a welcome river breeze on hot days at the end of the dry season.

On one early morning walk at Nsefu, we found ourselves amongst a herd of buffalo several hundred strong. Suddenly, we heard a loud and anguished bellow.

Two buffalos had been involved in an altercation. The result was that the horn of one had been wedged into the posterior of the other, producing understandable cries of distress.

Fortunately, the horn was extracted without too much delay, and the two continued on their way – although the injured party might have been limping slightly.

On our final night at Nsefu, we watched nine wild dogs demolishing the carcass of an impala, stripping it of the meat and organs and leaving only the skin, head and skeleton behind.

A wild dog chases a hooded vulture away in South Luangwa © Peter Geraerdts
A wild dog chases a hooded vulture in South Luangwa © Peter Geraerdts
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South Luangwa is famous for its walking safaris – and its large herds of buffalo © Shenton Safaris

No need to leave the lodge

Our final stop was Kafunta River Lodge. The night before we arrived, a large tree had fallen over inside the camp. We were greeted by a whole family of elephants, including a tiny baby, feasting on the fallen branches right there in the middle of the camp. These elephants are frequent visitors, and we repeatedly saw them wandering through the grounds.

The dining area at Kafunta looks out over a floodplain and a waterhole, both full of wildlife from before sunrise to well after sunset. First thing in the morning come the giraffes, followed by buffaloes, elephants, and impalas. Along with the resident hippos and plenty of birdlife, you barely need to leave the lodge to see some fantastic things.

When drilling for a borehole some years ago, Kafunta struck gold, unexpectedly tapping into a natural hot water spring. This spring now flows into a hot tub that also overlooks the waterhole. However, with temperatures in the mid-40s during our stay, we hadn’t been tempted to try it.

But, as the sun went down on our final day in South Luangwa, dark clouds gathered, and thunder rumbled promisingly. When the skies opened, and rain fell in sheets, the hot tub was the perfect place to sit. Up to our waists in warm water, with refreshing cold drops falling on our shoulders, a gin & tonic in hand, and hippos huffing and puffing below us, it was a truly magical end to an enchanting visit.

The fabulous hot tub at Kafunta River Lodge, fed by a natural hot spring and looking out over the game rich floodplain.
The fabulous hot tub at Kafunta River Lodge, fed by a natural hot spring and looking out over the wildlife-rich floodplain.
The Robin Pope Safaris’ Mobile Walking Safaris have long been known as the best wilderness experience of the South Luangwa. Guests spend five days walking through the north of the park.
The Robin Pope Safaris’ mobile walking safaris have long been known as the best wilderness experience of the South Luangwa. Guests spend five days walking through the north of the park.
How many elephants can you spot enjoying Track & Trail River Camp?
How many elephants can you spot enjoying Track & Trail River Camp?
South Luangwa
Special features of Kaingo Camp are the unique individual decks built out over the river in front of each chalet and the stunning outdoor bathtubs.
The Jackal-Berry tree house at Flatdogs Camp is built around three live African ebony trees (Diospyros mespiliformis) with unspoilt views out across a dambo and lagoon system which is regularly visited by elephant and giraffe.
The Jackal-Berry treehouse at Flatdogs Camp is built around three live African ebony trees with views across wetlands regularly visited by elephant and giraffe.
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Each year in November, the elephants near Mfuwe Lodge go in search of wild mangos. One particular family always takes the most direct route to the mango trees, calmly walking straight through the reception area, to the delight of staff and guests.
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Luambe Lodge is home to one of the largest hippo pools along the Luangwa River. During the dry season, several hundred hippos gather in front of the lodge.

Further reading

Africa’s Golden Valley – Luangwa Valley

Walk on the Wild Side – North Luangwa

For camps & lodges at the best prices and our famous ready-made safari packages, log into our app. If you do not yet have our app see the instructions below this story.

About the author

sarah-kingdomBorn and raised in Sydney, Australia, before moving to Africa at the age of 21, Sarah Kingdom is a mountain guide, traveller, and mother of two. When she is not climbing, she also owns and operates a 3,000-hectare cattle ranch in central Zambia.
She guides and runs trips regularly in India, Nepal, Tibet, Russia, Turkey, Uganda, and takes travellers up Tanzania’s Mount Kilimanjaro numerous times a year.

 

 

 

China announces end of legal ivory trade

China announces 2017 timeline for its domestic ivory ban. By WildAid

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BEIJING (30 December 2016) — The end of the world’s largest ivory market was announced today by the Chinese government as it released a detailed timetable for ending its legal trade. Domestic sales will be banned by the end of 2017 with the first batch of factories and traders to close their business by 31 March 2017.

Last year, President Xi Jinping made a public commitment to phasing out the trade, which may be falling out of favour with Chinese consumers. A recent conservation group Save the Elephants survey reported that ivory prices in eight mainland Chinese cities had fallen by half in a two-year period ending December 2015. Anecdotal evidence gathered by WildAid campaigners in China indicates prices may have decreased further this year: Market inquiries in May 2016 found raw ivory prices of around $450 to $900, representing a decrease of 57% to 78% compared with a 2014 high of $2,100 per kilogram in mainland China. A ban was first proposed to the National People’s Congress by former NBA star, Yao Ming, who also led documentaries on the trade for state broadcaster CCTV in partnership with WildAid.

WildAid CEO Peter Knights said, “China’s exit from the ivory trade is the greatest single step that could be taken to reduce poaching for elephants. We thank President Xi for his leadership and congratulate the State Forestry Administration for this timely plan. We will continue to support their efforts through education and persuading consumers not to buy ivory.”

With China’s announcement, international attention is now shifting to Japan, which voted against all CITES proposals to protect elephants and has insisted its trade is not tainted by illegal ivory. However, a recent report by the Environmental Investigation Agency (EIA) found that the nation’s elephant tusk registration system widely allows for poached tusks smuggled from Africa to be sold legally in the domestic market.

“Japan is the last man standing as a major legal destination for ivory.” Knights said. “If Japan joined the global community on this we could consign the abuses of the ivory trade to history.” 

The international commercial ivory trade was banned in 1989, following a decade of out-of-control poaching that decimated African elephant populations from 1.3 million in 1979 to an estimated 609,000 by the late 1980s. As a result of the ban, poaching decreased significantly and ivory prices plummeted. But a “one-off” sale of ivory in 2008 and the legal domestic trade in places such as Hong Kong, China, Thailand, Vietnam and the US have allowed for the laundering of illegal shipments from recently poached elephants.

Also read China’s ban on domestic ivory sales now in effect

The Askari Project: a Tsavo tusker conservation initiative

Ivory poaching continues to threaten elephant populations throughout the continent with recent census data indicating as few as 380,000 may be left in all of Africa. Poaching also threatens the last-remaining giant (tusker) elephants. Written by: Bradd Johnston for The Askari Project

The elephants of Tsavo are known around the world for their distinctive red colouring and this region is also home to some of the last great tuskers of Africa.

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©The Askari Project

Tsavo has always been a special place for elephants and this vast expanse is currently home to Kenya’s largest elephant population numbering around 14,000.

The Askari Project is a not-for-profit organization specifically set up to raise funding and support for The Tsavo Trust a local Kenyan organization that works in conjunction with the Kenya Wildlife Service to monitor and protect the elephants in Tsavo with a specific emphasis on their signature program – The Big Tusker Project.

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©The Askari Project

Tusker is the term used to describe bull elephants that have tusks that each weigh in excess of 45 kilograms (100 pounds).

The immense size of their tusks and the profits they bring have meant that tuskers have been relentlessly targeted by elephant hunters and poachers.

Tuskers are now incredibly rare with possibly as few as 20-30 left on the entire African continent. The greater Tsavo ecosystem containing Tsavo East, Tsavo West and Chyulu Hills National Parks is home to possibly the largest population of tuskers left in all of Africa.

The Askari Project fundraising

As part of their fundraising initiatives to help protect the tuskers of Tsavo, The Askari Project is running two exciting adventure tours in Africa in 2017.

The first being a nine-day Kilimanjaro climb (running from 31 August to 8 September) for elephant conservation which will attempt to summit Africa’s highest peak on the full moon in September. This trek up the Rongai route will be led by an expert mountaineer guide and Africa Geographic contributor Sarah Kingdom. Not only will participants achieve a personal milestone in reaching the summit but be climbing with a group of like-minded individuals wanting to raise vital funding for elephant conservation.

The second tour run with the help of RAW Africa Ecotours offers an incredible opportunity to come on safari to the elephant hotspots of Amboseli & Tsavo in Kenya. This tour will offer a rare and unique behind-the-scenes look at the conservation work of The Tsavo Trust, meet some of the hard-working staff and accompany them on the search for some of the magnificent and iconic elephants they monitor in the region.

This 10-day tour from 10 to 19 September 2017 offers some fantastic safari highlights but also contributes funding directly to the conservation work of The Tsavo Trust. The group size for this safari experience is restricted to just six lucky people.

Also read: Time with super-tuskers

Trophy Hunting: unethical Namibian hunters to blame for poor image

Hunters who engage in unethical and illegal practices are largely to blame for the decline in the “overall acceptance” of trophy hunting by the general public and influential institutions across the globe says Namibian Professional Hunting Association (NAPHA) immediate-past president Kai-Uwe Denker. Written by Oscar Nkala

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©Conservation Action Trust

Addressing delegates at the association Annual General Meeting (AGM) in Windhoek in early December, Denker said the global hunting industry has been under siege from a coordinated, international anti-hunting movement since the 1970s.

He said of late, the image of the industry business had been battered by numerous revelations of unethical conduct by some hunters who are motivated by greed.

“Typical of human nature and for many reasons including greed, many hunting operators have thrown into the wind, not only the generally accepted standards of ethical hunting but also the very important ecological and nature conservation linkage it has to the principle of sustainable use (of wildlife resources),” Denker said.

Further, he said because financial motives tended to over-ride any moral considerations within the hunting industry, the little public support for trophy hunting had been lost to mounting reports of illegal and unethical hunting.

Such reports exposed the “well-founded and well-meant” principle of sustainable use of natural resources to rhetorical questions such as whether it was now about the abuse of natural resources.

Denker said the Namibian trophy hunting industry could survive, but only if its members restored the conduct of ethical and morally acceptable hunting. Such conduct would include the wider observation and adherence to a strict animal welfare code in order to convince the sceptical public that the only acceptable justification for trophy hunting is that it is an “indispensable” tool for practical nature conservation.

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©Conservation Action Trust

“It is no longer acceptable to try and justify unacceptable hunting practices by claiming that ethics and morals are matters of personal opinion. The worldwide community has clearly told us that with this, you have crossed the line. It is no longer good enough for a professional hunter to just drive a Landcruiser off the road and shoot a big boar with a rifle,” Denker said.

The strategy to win back public support for trophy hunting would also involve education and awareness campaigns to teach the hunters about the basics of conservation and sustainable use of wildlife resources.

The outgoing association president called for the introduction of a new professional hunter training curriculum that would prioritise conservation, with emphasis on aspects like functioning ecosystems, habitat aspects and population dynamics.

The current Namibian professional hunter training curriculum is an oral and practical course that was tailored-made to suit candidates who cannot read or write.

Denker said the reputation of the hunting industry would remain on “accelerated decline” as long as sectoral audits continued to reveal evidence of its manipulation of rules to facilitate the illegal exploitation of wildlife resources.

Should the sector fail to restore mechanisms to monitor adherence to hunting rules and moral ethics, professional hunters might as well abandon the business and hang up their rifles, Denker warned.

Addressing the same meeting, Deputy Minister of Environment and Tourism Tommy Nambahu said throughout 2016, the Namibian hunting industry struggled against severe challenges which threatened it’s sustainability as a lead contributor to wildlife and nature conservation.

These included the four-year-old regional drought that has dried up water resources, killing thousands of wild animals and livestock across the semi-desert country.

The ripple effects of global events such as the attack on, and advocacy against all forms of trophy hunting following the shooting of Cecil the Lion in Zimbabwe in mid-2015, have negatively affected the Namibian trophy hunting industry.

The iconic Zimbabwean male lion, which was a collared subject of a continuing lion research project run by Oxford University, was lured out of Hwange in July 2015 and killed by US doctor Walter Palmer with the help of professional hunter Theo Bronkhorst.

The US doctor initially shot and badly injured the lion with a bow and arrow. However, the bow-hunt, which is illegal in Zimbabwe, did not kill the lion and he had to finish it of with a rifle, hours after the first attack.

The public outcry generated by the criminal and unethical nature of the hunt galvanised the global anti-hunting lobby with some conservationists calling for a total ban of trophy hunting of lions and other endangered wildlife species.

Nambahu said trophy hunting in Namibia had declined in the aftermath of the illegal and unethical Cecil hunt because it generated global calls for a ban on trophy hunting and forced several airlines to boycott the transportation of trophies hunted in Africa.

“It is important for us as regulators, hunters, hunting outfitters and stakeholder communities to remain ethical in our dealings to avoid some of the unbecoming criticisms that may tarnish and further diminish our reputation,” the deputy minister said.

Internally, NAPHA is struggling to get rid of the perception that it is a white-dominated industry amid reports that the country has managed to train only 350 black professional hunters since the government drive for racial inclusion in the industry began in 2001.

elephant-selfie-francis-garrard
©Conservation Action Trust

Denker said in the past 20 years when efforts to promote inclusion largely failed, white members of the hunters association occasionally felt unwelcome although they were citizens who loved the country like any other.

Apart from the black professional hunter training project, another initiative that sought to promote black participation in the hunting business was the provision, in 2013, of courses to help communal conservancy operators become independent hunting operators.

Read about the link between hunting and tourism in Namibia

Kicking back in Mauritius

The year is all but done, the mountain of admin has got the better of you, and strings of last-minute things to do are being pulled from your threadbare brain like a magician’s trick. It’s now, more than ever, that you need to be sitting on a beach, staring out over the turquoise water with a tall glass of citrus-something in your hand. Mauritius, anyone?

Mauritius is the ideal place to kick off your shoes and get sand between your toes. I know this because I recently found myself doing just that at the newly renovated Constance Belle Mare Plage. Sun loungers beckoned, whispering of days spent indulging in fine French wine from a floating platform on the pool. Scents of ylang-ylang, vanilla, frangipane and sweet orange filled the air.

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Strolling along the beach at sunrise at Belle Mare Plage © Constance Hotels and Resorts

This dream hotel, which seems to hang somewhere between heaven and earth, is found on the northwest coast of Mauritius overlooking two kilometres of pristine beach. Behind it lies a lagoon as clear as glass. The hotel was one of the first to be established on the island back in 1975 when Mauritians began to recognise its incredible potential for tourism. The Constance Group opened Belle Mare Plage with just ten self-catering bungalows, offering a unique style of beach living.

Today, the wealth of establishments to choose from along the island’s 330km coastline clearly illustrates how the tourism industry has blossomed here. Perhaps part of the secret to its success is that hospitality seems to be in Mauritian blood. Everyone I met was always willing to lend a hand and share a smile.

Once you’ve worked your way through a few of the 200 illustrious rums at Belle Mare Plage’s Blu Bar, you may regain enough mojo to set your sights on something more than sand and sun. So what is there to do in Mauritius besides sipping piña coladas and sneaking glances at the sexy French boat boy from behind your sunnies?

Play golf with Rudolph

Mauritius is definitely on the map as a golf destination. For a small island, there is a surprisingly large assortment of spectacular courses. Notable among them is The Legend Golf Course at Belle Mare Plage. Opened in 1994, it spreads over 70 hectares of a former deer reserve. Deer still roam here, and they can be quite a surprise for golfers who don’t expect to meet Rudolph in a tropical paradise.

Javan deer were introduced to Mauritius by a Dutch governor in 1639. They flourished on the island, finding agreeable homes in the forests. Deer from Mauritius have even been sent back to Java to help restock the now vulnerable population there.

Deer motifs also decorate the hand-painted wallpaper at Chateau de Labourdonnais. Built in 1859, this colonial mansion has been beautifully restored and is now a cultural museum. You can tour the house, learning about the island’s history, flora, architecture and cuisine. And, when you are done, the tasting bar beckons with yet more traditional island rum.

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Javan deer take a dip at Legends Golf Course © Janine Avery
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Guests have free access to two 18-hole golf courses at Belle Mare Plage © Constance Hotels And Resorts

Sacred sites and a festival of lights

This extraordinarily, peaceful nation is remarkably diverse. You’ll find Catholic churches alongside Tamil temples, and Chinese pagodas cheek by jowl with Hindu statues. Interestingly, Mauritius is the only country in Africa where Hinduism is the dominant religion.

The most sacred Hindu site in Mauritius is the Grand Bassin crater lake. It’s a tranquil spot, framed by colourful statues and food stalls where locals offer refreshments to the pilgrims. Nearby, the Mangal Mahadev rises out of the mist. This 33-metre high statue of the Hindu god Shiva is one of the tallest monuments in the world and is well worth a visit.

I was lucky enough to be on the island for Diwali, the Hindu festival of lights. Houses aglow in a thousand fairy lights directed me back to Belle Mare Plage.

Staff dressed in traditional saris added another layer of colour to the multicoloured flowers, intricate Kolam rice drawings, and the ocean sparkling beyond.

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Hindu forehead marks represent the mythological third eye, which is thought to be able to gain spiritual insights © Janine Avery
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Kolam rice paintings are a Hindu tradition performed to bring prosperity to a home © Janine Avery

Sugar cane juice and pamplemousse

If you love to shop, the Port Louis market has a t-shirt with your name on it. Besides the usual souvenir stalls and flower sellers, an abundance of deliciously fresh fish, fruit and vegetables will get your mouth watering.

Just around the corner, Le Caudan Waterfront offers more upmarket stalls and a duty-free store. Its indoor craft market had me bewitched with a multitude of local one-of-a-kind handicrafts which can be customised on the spot for your family and friends. Buy yourself some traditionally-pressed sugar cane juice and sip it under the colourful umbrellas that dance over the central courtyard.

Model ship making is a celebrated craft in Mauritius, and a visit to a model ship factory is a fascinating experience. You can watch the tiny boats being brought to life by artisans as they painstakingly build each miniature replica by hand.

The island’s natural attractions are no less enticing. In the southwest, the Black River Gorges National Park is famed for its gorges and waterfalls. Hike through them, and you’ll spot pink pigeons and monkeys. Nearby you’ll find the Chamarel Waterfall – which plummets more than 300 feet off a vertical cliff – and the Seven Coloured Earths. These surreal rainbow dunes are striped in red, brown, yellow, green, blue, purple and violet sand. They were created when basaltic lava from the volcanic eruption that formed the island nine million years ago cooled at different temperatures.

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Colourful umbrellas form a floating awning at Le Caudan Waterfront in Port Louis, the capital of Mauritius © Janine Avery
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The model ships made in Mauritius are faithful reproductions of famous sailing ships, such as the Mayflower, the Bounty and Nelson’s Victory © Janine Avery
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Sugar cane juice, also known as fangourin, is made by crushing the stalks in a mill © Janine Avery

Mauritius boasts the oldest botanical gardens in the southern hemisphere. The Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanical Garden is named after the first Mauritian prime minister but is more commonly and conveniently known as the Pamplemousses (pamplemousse are grapefruit trees, which grow in the area.) Here you can see the famous giant water lilies, sacred Indian lotus, and over 80 species of palm trees. Look out for the bleeding tree (Pterocarpus angolensis), a teak tree that leaks macabre red-black sap, as well as the erotic Amazonia Pona palms, with their suggestively-shaped roots which had me giggling like a schoolgirl.

Fruit bats, the island’s only native mammals, can be spotted flitting through the trees in their hundreds.

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In the rain, the Seven Colored Earths become a terrestrial rainbow © Janine Avery
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The Pamplemousses Gardens are famous for this long pond of giant water lilies (Victoria amazonica) © Alison Westwood
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The Rochester Falls in the south of the island boasts unusual rectangular rocks and are the widest falls in Mauritius © Alison Westwood

Mauritius Travel Tips

Weather
Mauritius has almost 300 days of sunshine a year. Daily temperatures usually range between 20°C and 35°C. However, those sunny skies are not always clear, and rain can come down at the drop of a hat. It may last a few short minutes or the rest of the day. During showers it can get chilly, so, if you are out and about, be sure to pack a light jersey just in case.

Accommodation
If you are staying at a hotel, choose an all-inclusive rate if possible. Many hotels offer several restaurants (the Belle Mare Plage has no fewer than seven), and going all-inclusive gives you the chance to try them all without worrying about your budget. It’s also worth bearing in mind that spirits and wine are expensive on the island due to high taxes. All-inclusive packages ensure you can relax with a mojito whenever your heart desires.

Food
If you are a seafood lover, go ahead and indulge. Fish is fresh and reasonably priced. Tuna and marlin are reliably delicious wherever you go. And, with great local and French chefs around every corner, you’re unlikely to be disappointed by your dinner. At Constance Resorts and Hotels, fine cuisine is one of the highlights of the experience. I was treated to a dinner with a Michelin star chef and a cooking class that was a highlight of my stay.

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Blu Bar at Belle Mare Plage is the place to head to meet up with friends for a cool cocktail © Janine Avery
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The relaxed, upbeat atmosphere of Indigo Restaurant is combined with stunning views out across the white sand beach © Janine Avery
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There are four swimming pools and seven restaurants at Belle Mare Plage © Constance Hotels And Resorts

Getting around
Take some time to explore the island. Although your hotel will probably offer everything you could want to enjoy your holiday in Mauritius, there is so much else to see in this gorgeous country.

While it’s possible to travel by bus, they can be unreliable, and taxis are expensive. Instead, rent a car from a local company. I recommend Maki Car Rental. They offer fantastic service, are budget-friendly, and the free GPS that comes with the vehicle offers interesting information at tourist spots. A rental car also allows you to explore at your own pace, stopping off at any of the picturesque places along the way.

If you prefer to learn as you go and leave the driving to someone else, you can sit back and enjoy a guided tour with a local. Mauritours offer very informative tours of the island. Ask for Mary, the guide who became my firm friend within a matter of minutes.

Flights
Keep an eye out for flight deals, especially if you’re South African. Special offers sometimes include ‘two for the price of one’ or free accommodation. Air Mauritius, the island’s carrier, is comfortable and efficient.

For camps & lodges at the best prices and our famous ready-made safari packages, log into our app. If you do not yet have our app see the instructions below this story.

Also read: Protecting Paradise

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From waterskiing, windsurfing and Hobie Cat sailing, to big game fishing, parasailing and kite surfing, you’ll find plenty of ways to enjoy the ocean waves © Janine Avery
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Local fishing boats bob in the calm, clear bay © Janine Avery
Africa Geographic Travel

About the author

janine-avery-victoria-falls-zimbabweJANINE AVERY is the first to confess that she has been bitten by the travel bug… badly. She is a lover of all things travel, from basic tenting with creepy crawlies to lazing in luxury lodges – she will give it all a go.
Janine is passionate about wildlife and conservation, and she comes from a long line of biologists, researchers and botanists.

 

 

 

 

 

 

iSimangaliso: the moving release of two rehabilitated turtles

Sodwana Bay, in the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, boasts the southernmost reaches of the tropical west Indian Ocean and a population of green turtles. 

On 28 November 2016, two rehabilitated green turtles (Chelonia mydas) nicknamed ‘Mel’ and ‘Grotto’, were released here at Mabibi by park CEO Andrew Zaloumis and senior aquarist Robert Kyle from SAAMBR (South African Association for Marine Biological Research).

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Grotto being reintroduced into the ocean ©Fiona Ayerst

Each year, concerned members of the public take stranded turtles to local vets or into Aquaria around the country. This release was part of ongoing rehabilitation measures undertaken by iSimangaliso together with the Two Oceans Aquarium in Cape Town, uShaka Marine World in Durban and Bayworld in Port Elizabeth.

During winter, juvenile turtles are swept down from the northern coast of KwaZulu-Natal in the Agulhas current. They are often in a weak condition and could be dehydrated or hypothermic, or worse, injured in some way.

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Mel being reintroduced into the ocean ©Fiona Ayerst

Green turtles don’t nest on our beaches, but rather on the beaches alongside the Mozambique Channel. However, they are common in the South African offshore waters. Of the two turtles that were released, little Mel is the smallest weighing 816 grams. She was stranded at the Willows outside Port Elizabeth on 16 December 2015 and treated at Bayworld for ‘shell rot’. She recovered completely. As Mel was treated medically she could be sexed.

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©Fiona Ayerst

The second turtle ‘Grotto’ was stranded on Grotto Beach near Cape Town on 29 April 2016. This turtle weighs 12.6 kg. Grotto cannot be sexed as green turtles only become sexually mature at 50 years old. This is just one of the reasons why saving, rehabilitating and releasing Green turtles back into the wild is so vital.

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©Fiona Ayerst

Both turtles were rehabilitated at Two Oceans Aquarium in Cape Town and then sent up to uShaka Marine World where they were observed for a few weeks before being released inside the marine protected area of the wetland park.

The Two Oceans Aquarium in Cape Town started releasing larger numbers of rehabilitated turtles in 2009, starting off with eight. Within only six years the numbers have increased dramatically and in 2015, 162 turtles were released back into the wild.

A proportion of the Shootout event entry fees contribute directly towards the iSimangaliso Rare and Endangered Species Fund which is used exclusively for the protection, reintroduction, monitoring and research of species such as these two turtles, within the park.

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©Fiona Ayerst

Zaloumis told me that, “this year for the first time, the fund is contributing to marine species conservation. R100 000 has already been allocated to a project on the ecological state of the coral reefs in the area.”

Zaloumis hopes both to increase awareness, and also to improve the efforts being made by the iSimangaliso Authority to protect and conserve marine areas.

Visitors to the park at this time of year (November through to March) could witness the miracle of egg-laying and the hatching of loggerhead and leatherback turtles. Watching a huge mother turtle lumber down the dunes and slip silently into the dark waves after covering her eggs in a deep sandy nest is strangely moving.

As I witnessed the release of Grotto and Mel back into the wild waters I noticed more than a few wet eyes amongst those involved. I hope my photos impart some of the emotion of that moment – a moment everyone present will remember forever.

Hwange

At thirteen minutes to midnight, I looked over my shoulder. My blood temperature dropped to match the chilly Hwange night. There he was, hugely muscled with a big black mane, padding silently, dangerously under the full moon.

The fully-grown male lion stood six metres behind me. I stood, swaddled in a blanket and beanie, in an open-sided hide at Big Toms, not far from Robins Camp. I could hear my heartbeat and feel the adrenaline. But there was no way I was going to call out to my fellow counters, snoring in their roof tents, in case that big boy decided I was worth a closer look.

It’s never boring on the Hwange Game Census. This is remarkable in itself, because on ‘the count’ – as it’s better known – teams of volunteers sit as still and as quietly as they can for 24 hours. They must remain silent and motionless from midday to noon the next day over the last full moon of the dry season.

It turns out that when you’re sitting in a hide, or a vehicle in the middle of the bush, just watching and waiting, animals and birds you might otherwise disregard become reason for great excitement. On quiet counts, I’ve seen people high-five when a herd of impala strolls by.

Young elephants kicking up dust in Hwange © Sue Flood
Elephants kicking up dust in Hwange ©Sue Flood, The Hide

One thing you can count on

The Hwange Game Census is organised and run by Wildlife and Environment Zimbabwe (WEZ). It has the distinction of being the longest continuously-running game census in Southern Africa. Since 1972, through war, drought, boom years and bust, and all of Zimbabwe’s economic and political instability, the count has been one constant in an ever-changing country.

The count covers about 90 pans, dams, hides, natural springs and river pools. For three nights, including the night of the actual census, Hwange is busier than at any other time of year. About 300 WEZ members, all volunteers, take over virtually all the accommodation in Hwange’s three camps: Main Camp, Sinamatella and Robins.

Although its numbers are never going to be completely accurate, the annual census report, compiled by long-term WEZ member and statistician Foster Betts, makes for fascinating reading. Two crucial things the count identifies are the location of species of interest to researchers and trends within the park.

The most notable trend in the 18 years I’ve been counting is the increasing presence of elephants. Elephant numbers on the count have reached around 30,000 in recent years. And their proportion relative to the total animals counted has risen from between 30 and 40 per cent in the 1980s to 60 per cent or higher.

A family of elephants in Hwange ©Jo Sharp
A family of elephants in Hwange ©Jo Sharp
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Close encounters with elephants in Hwange ©Dave Dell, The Hide

Other animals’ fortunes wax and wane. Giraffe numbers are down. This is not surprising, given the toll the elephant population takes on trees. However, rarer antelope such as sable and roan are doing well in Hwange. Buffalo and lion numbers are good. My team counted a herd of 1,000 buffalo last year, and other big herds were seen on this year’s count.

In addition to my moonlit male lion – who conveniently reappeared shortly after dawn so that my fellow counters could get a look at him – we counted giraffe, zebra, reedbuck, sable, warthog, impala, spotted hyena, and black-backed jackal. Two days before the count, I had two separate sightings of wild dog. And, on the morning after the count, two dogs killed an impala just outside Robins Camp.

Birds aren’t counted during the census, but teams are issued with a bird identification sheet to tick and separate forms to record species that are rare in Hwange. These include ostrich and martial eagle, both of which our team spotted.

Clockwise from left: WEZ volunteers scanning and recording as zebras drink at Big Toms Hide © Tony Park; Making friends with the Hwange Park Rangers ©Annelien Oberholzer; An unusual sight: vehicles queueing to enter Hwange ©Annelien Oberholzer
Clockwise from left: WEZ volunteers scanning and recording as zebras drink at Big Toms Hide ©Tony Park; Making friends with the Hwange Park Rangers ©Annelien Oberholzer; An unusual sight: vehicles queueing to enter Hwange ©Annelien Oberholzer
Deteema Picnic Site, Hwange National Park
Rooftop camping at Deteema Picnic Site, Hwange National Park ©Annelien Oberholzer

Close encounters of the wild kind

The game count is the only time ‘ordinary’ people like me can be out in the park alone after dark. It’s fun, but not for the faint-hearted. First-time counters are usually paired with more experienced volunteers.

I’ve had a lioness run past me just a few metres away as I was boiling a kettle. A bull elephant stuck his trunk through the window of my Land Rover. A curious hyena sniffed at my door as I drank chicken cup-a-soup. And a hungry giraffe mistook my roof tent for a tree.

Counters not in a hide generally set up next to their vehicles. They might sit under the shade of an awning during the day, but at night they keep inside their cars unless answering the call of nature.  But sometimes not even that is possible.

As we headed back towards Robins Camp after our count this year, we came across friends who’d been at Little Toms, just down the road. Apparently, they’d also been visited by lions. In the middle of the night, 14 female lions and cubs had decided to lie down to sleep in a circle around their camper. The Hwange game count is not for sissies.

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Buffalo drinking from a pan in Hwange ©The Hide
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A black-backed jackal drinks from a shallow pan supplied by a solar pump at Mbiza in Hwange ©The Hide

Participate in a game count

Every year, WEZ runs game counts in Hwange, Mana Pools, Gonarezhou, Hippo Pools and Lake Chivero. The counts give a rough indication of population sizes and show if animals are being disturbed by poachers. Counters also assess the status of vegetation and the availability of water. WEZ uses the census information to advise Zimbabwe National Parks on the state of biodiversity and to help set conservation and management priorities.

The game counts are usually done in September, October or December and are open to anyone to participate. For more information about participating in a game count, email mashwild@utande.co.zw.

About Hwange

Hwange National Park is Zimbabwe’s largest national park, covering an area of 14,651km² – approximately half the size of Belgium. The name – mispronounced ‘Wankie’ in colonial times – comes from a local chief. In the early 19th Century, the area was the royal hunting grounds of the Ndebele warrior-king Mzilikazi. Later, settlers tried to farm and breed cattle there but were deterred by the lack of water and abundance of tsetse flies and predators. It was set aside as a game reserve in 1928 and proclaimed a national park in 1961.

Although it has virtually no natural water sources (water must be pumped in), Hwange is a haven for over 100 mammal and 400 bird species. There are more than 20,000 elephants in the park, and it protects what is thought to be one of the largest populations of African wild dog. Large prides of lion and buffalo are frequently seen there, and you also have a good chance of spotting leopard, as well as cheetah and spotted hyena. The wild and woolly brown hyena occurs here too but is rather rare.

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A large herd of buffalo trails in to drink water from the pan during the dry season in Hwange ©The Hide
Rain approaches Hwange © Tim Marks
The sky darkens before the rain in Hwange © Tim Marks, The Hide
Rain transforms Hwange's dry landscape into lush grasslands
Rain temporarily transforms Hwange’s arid landscape into lush green grasslands ©The Hide

Where to stay in Hwange

There are three national parks camps inside Hwange. Main camp, at the main entrance to the park, is close to several pans and pumped waterholes. Sinamatella, on the northern border of the park, is set on an outcrop overlooking a riverbed and plains. Robins Camp is close to the western boundary and was bequeathed, along with his cattle ranch, by farmer Harold Robins in 1939.

The camps offer self-catering cottages and camping sites, as well as restaurants, bars and basic shops. Fuel may be available, but it’s best not to rely on this. Camping is also permitted at several picnic sites within the park. Bookings for national parks camps and campsites must be made directly through national parks at kkgatsiga@zimparks.co.zw or on +263 14 706077/8.

For camps & lodges at the best prices and our famous ready-made safari packages, log into our app. If you do not yet have our app see the instructions below this story.

Africa Geographic Travel

About the author

Tony Park © Annelien Oberholzer
Bestselling author Tony Park first visited southern Africa 21 years ago as a tourist on a once-in-a-lifetime holiday.  That first safari turned out to be anything but. After returning every year since 1995 he and his wife, Nicola, put down roots in South Africa four years ago, buying a house in a game reserve on the edge of the Kruger National Park. The former journalist, public relations and army officer (he served in Afghanistan in 2002) now spends six months of the year in his native Australia and the balance in Africa where he researches and writes his thriller novels.

In this edition, Tony talks about his personal experiences in Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park, including the annual game census in the park, which Tony and Nicola have taken part in for the past 17 years.
Several of Tony’s novels, including Far Horizon, African Dawn and Safari are set in Hwange and they reflect his love for troubled Zimbabwe and its flagship game reserve. Tony’s African novels have a strong environmental bent. His 13th and latest book, Red Earth, set in KwaZulu-Natal, focuses on the plight of Africa’s endangered vultures. Read more at www.tonypark.net

Himba: Hearts of Sand

Travel photographer Matthieu Rivart has spent a great deal of his time travelling to some of the world’s most remote places to document the beauty of vanishing cultures. These trips are his attempt to understand human nature, and to preserve its essence through photography before our world becomes less rich in cultural diversity. The Himba tribe is one of the first indigenous tribes that Matthieu ever heard about.

Living in the northern desert region of Namibia, the Himba are a semi-nomadic people whose population is estimated to be around 50,000. As this region is considered to be one of the wildest on the African continent, they have largely managed to resist modernisation.

Every time Matthieu visits the Himba, he drives through Namibia to reach Opuwo, the small capital of the Kaokoland region, which is close to the border of Angola. In Opuwo he meets a local guide, who shows him the way to the most remote villages, introduces him to the inhabitants, and also plays the role of translator between the photographer and the people.

From his own experience, Matthieu can testify that being accompanied by a good guide is the key to a successful trip. Before heading to the Himba villages, Matthieu and his guide buy food to show their gratitude to the tribe for welcoming and spending time with him. In every encounter he has, Matthieu first builds a strong link with the individual before taking a photo. He believes that a good photograph relies on a unique interaction between two people, so he has always been reluctant to give money in exchange for taking photos, as he believes that paying people prevents creating a genuine connection. He also fears that money earnt from cultural tourism could threaten the Himba’s traditional way of life, as the financial incentive erodes at the culture and turns the people into objects of entertainment who are merely required to re-enact traditions for spectators.

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? © Matthieu Rivart

Himbas are particularly known for their beauty regime, as they cover their skin and hair with a red mixture called otjize, which is made of ochre and butterfat.
As Himba live in isolated desert regions, access to water is a daily concern, and the precious resource is reserved solely for drinking. Over time, water has even developed a holy element, and many Himba women actively avoid putting their body in contact with water.

Otjize is used to protect the skin from sun and insects, and to perfume the body. It has both a hygienic and aesthetic function, and rubbing their skin with this mixture is part of a morning ritual for Himba women. It is also used to cover jewellery, clothes and headdresses, and is re-applied to hair braids roughly every two months.

In addition to this, women also burn aromatic herbs and roots to perfume their body. On such occasions, they sit by the burning herbs under a blanket and wait for several minutes until the perfumed smoke has done its job. It’s quite the sight to see when a woman removes the blanket, as a cloud of smoke temporarily hides her!

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? © Matthieu Rivart

Jewellery and headwear both play an important role in Himba culture, as they reflect the status of a person. Many Himba women fix hair extensions made of goat hair to their natural hair, which is then applied with otjize. This hairstyle shows that the girl has reached puberty and is now considered a woman, and she will keep that hairstyle throughout her adult life.

Himba women also wear a headdress if they’re married, which usually takes the form of a small hat made of leather. During one of Matthieu’s stays, he met women who were crossing the desert on foot to visit relatives. As they wanted to travel lightly, they just placed a piece of plastic bag between their central braids to make sure their status as married women could still be recognised.

The jewellery of many Himba women consists of a mix of plastic bracelets bought at the closest market, recycled wire, and more traditional necklaces. The most iconic of them, called ohumba, is made of metal beads that support a shell. This necklace, which is a symbol of fertility, is passed down from one generation to the next and isn’t always worn on a day-to-day basis.

During Matthieu’s stay in one Himba village, two young girls were particularly interested in looking at the photos that he was taking, and were complimenting each other on their beauty. They would even use their image on the screen as a way of knowing how to readjust their jewellery – before asking for another photo to be taken!

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? © Matthieu Rivart

Young Himba girls have a specific hairstyle that is easily recognisable – this consists of two braided hair plaits that extend forward over the forehead. Boys, on the other hand, have just a single braid that extends backwards to the rear of the head.

Once a girl has her first menstrual cycle, her status changes and a ceremony is organised to celebrate this rite of passage. Before attending the ceremony, the girl must leave the village for several days on her own. When she’s back, the village organises for an animal to be sacrificed, which is usually a goat, and the girl receives jewellery that will show her new status. A change of hairstyle will also be part of the transition, as the girl, who is now a woman, will wear her hair in the traditional braids covered with otjize.

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? © Matthieu Rivart

Meeting traditional tribes requires showing respect and developing trust for the experience to be meaningful for both parties. Nowadays, with cultural tourism on the rise, genuine encounters with tribal communities are harder to achieve and often involve travelling to remote areas that tourists don’t tend to visit. It is important to spend time with the people and to adapt to the local way of life to integrate a bit in the community. Matthieu also feels that it is important that visitors interact without disturbing the daily life of the village – even if this means refraining from taking photos at first.

During Matthieu’s first trip to a Himba village, he met the young woman in this photograph. She was living in a small village occupied by a dozen inhabitants. After several days spent in the village, she became more familiar with Matthieu’s presence, and they spent a long time talking about the meaning of her jewellery – their discussion became so natural that taking this photograph happened organically.

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? © Matthieu Rivart

For many visitors, the proportion of women in Himba villages is striking. The main reason for this is that men spend most of their time looking after the cattle and sometimes have to be away with the animals for several days to lead them to areas with sufficient amounts of grass for grazing.

The women, on the other hand, stay in the village where their daily life consists of looking after their children, collecting wood to build houses, or preparing meals. Even during their demanding and sometimes physical tasks, which can even involve digging for water in the sand of a dry riverbed, Himba women still wear their jewellery, which is part of their identity.

Men can marry several women, depending on their level of wealth, which is mainly judged by how many cattle they own. But women are only permitted to have one husband. Although this may be the case, Himba society is relatively open-minded with regards to relationships between men and women, and married women tend to have boyfriends, while some single women sometimes even have children with married men.

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? © Matthieu Rivart

Himbas often face discrimination due to their ancestral way of life – especially with regards to their partial nudity, as women tend to wear short skirts made of goatskin. As the modern world closes in, the Himba often have to negotiate the gap between their traditional culture and consumer society. In Opuwo, Himba women can sometimes be seen in supermarkets. To afford their purchases, many are forced to sell their cattle or their jewellery, which gradually detaches them from their ancestors and traditions. Nowadays, more and more Himbas are also leaving their villages in pursuit of a more prosperous way of life.

When Matthieu spends time with tribes, he systematically shows people the portraits and photos that he takes. He feels that this helps to establish trust, as people can see exactly what he is doing, especially if they are not used to cameras.

? © Matthieu Rivart

Three places are particularly important in an onganda (Himba village) – the hut of the oldest man of the clan, who is the leader of the village, the kraal (livestock enclosure), and the okuruwo (holy fire).

The okuruwo plays an important role in daily life and, during his last stay with the Himbas, Matthieu would spend evenings gathered around the fire with the community, sharing the traditional porridge made of flour and goat milk, while the elder would tell the children stories and the women would dance and sing.

The Himba believe that the holy fire is a medium by which they can communicate with the spirits of their dead ancestors, and when the fire is not lit, it is considered offensive for foreigners to near or cross the fireplace.

One night, Matthieu recognised a young girl called Makupuaere sitting by a fire when most of the villagers had already retired to their huts to sleep. When he was close enough, he took a photo of her. The sound of the shutter echoed in the silent night, but Makupuaere did not move as she was sound asleep.

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? © Matthieu Rivart

Taking photographs in indigenous villages means sharing the daily life of its inhabitants. As they usually live in remote areas, they’re quite reluctant to see foreigners so, to be accepted, one needs to adapt to their way of life, which is part of the magic of the experience.

Social ties are at the heart of daily life in any Himba village, which is made up of relatives. Communities are quite small – the biggest village that Matthieu has stayed in was composed of a dozen huts, while the smallest was a mere group of three huts inhabited by just a dozen of people

Also read: Himba – a people in transition

About the photographer

Raised in France, but now living in South Africa, Matthieu Rivart has been passionate about photography for a decade, and he strives to achieve the balance in his endeavours between expressing creativity and preserving authenticity.
Inspired by the work of anthropologists and explorers, Matthieu Rivart travels across the world – through deserts, jungles and mountains – to witness the beauty of diversity in humans and nature. As the winner of several international photo contests and prizes, Matthieu’s work can be enjoyed online on his website and in art galleries. You can also follow him on Facebook and Instagram.

Trophy hunting: sustainability problems in Zimbabwe exposed

Trophy hunting in Zimbabwe’s Matetsi Safari Area is not sustainable at current levels as trophy sizes are declining, there is little scientific data supporting quota sizes and hunting management is seriously incapacitated. Written By: Andreas Wilson-Späth

A paper published in the open-access scientific journal PLOS ONE last month reveals several major problems with trophy hunting in Zimbabwe’s Matetsi Safari Area.

Investigating the impact of trophy hunting

The effect trophy hunting has had on the Cape buffalo, elephant, greater kudu and sable antelope populations of the Matetsi Safari Area in the northwest of the country was analysed by a group of researchers led by Victor Muposhi of the Chinhoyi University of Technology in Zimbabwe. Specifically, they looked at records of trophy size, the age of killed animals at the time of “harvest”, annual hunting quotas and the number of animals actually shot by trophy hunters.

The study area covers about 3000 square kilometres and forms part of the much larger Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA TFCA) which straddles the borders of Angola, Namibia, Zambia, Botswana and Zimbabwe. It is divided into seven management units that have seen more than 37 years of trophy hunting.

Between 2004 and 2015, trophy hunters killed 807 Cape buffalo, 565 greater kudu and 369 sable antelopes here, while the period from 2005 to 2015 “yielded” 258 elephants.

A “dilemma” of sustainability

While they acknowledge that there has been “perpetual debate and polarity on the sustainability of trophy hunting”, the authors of the study clearly position themselves on the pro-hunting, “sustainable utilisation” side of the fence, suggesting that trophy hunting is “still considered as one sustainable way of supporting conservation in African countries endowed with abundant wildlife species” and that the use of a quota system “promotes sustainable off-takes” with “a negligible impact on overall ecology of wildlife species”.

It comes as somewhat of a surprise then that a number of their findings point to significant shortcomings of this philosophy in their chosen study area. These include the following

1. The trophy (i.e. tusk) size for hunted elephants has declined significantly from 2005 to 2015.

2. There is a tendency for the species under consideration to avoid “the hunting areas in favour of the neighbouring National Parks within the KAZA TFCA where there is no hunting”. This is consistent with earlier studies in the Greater Mapungubwe Transfrontier Conservation Area between South Africa, Botswana and Zimbabwe, which found that while ecotourism in an area caused elephant numbers to increase, trophy hunting was detrimental to transfrontier elephant populations.

3. Annual trophy hunting quotas issued for sable antelopes increased significantly during the study period. What’s of particular concern in this regard is that quotas for the area don’t appear to have been set on the basis of real scientific data. The researchers warn that their “findings cast doubt on the sustainability of […] the quota setting processes in this area” noting that “there seems to be over-reliance on questionable and subjective personal opinions in the quota setting process which in actual sense is supposed to be based on scientific evidence and ecological principles”. The severity of this matter is evident from the statement that “the viability of trophy hunting in this area over time may be compromised unless a review on the current trophy hunting policy is done”.

4. The authors argue that within the KAZA TFCA landscape current “harvesting rates” for the species under consideration “may not be sustainable from a trophy size perspective if age restrictions and trophy size limits were to be imposed”.

5. The scientists are critical of the management of trophy hunting activities in the area and emphasise that the economic decline of the country “seriously incapacitated” the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority’s ability to conduct the “periodic surveys and monitoring programs which are critical in the quota setting process”. While the Authority didn’t necessarily raise quotas for all of the hunted species, it did increase its control over hunting areas “in an attempt to increase its revenue base”. Crucially, “the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority is confronted with the dual task of generating revenue”, while simultaneously playing “the regulatory role in trophy hunting and wildlife conservation issues in Zimbabwe”. In a particularly incisive statement, the researchers observe that “self-regulating is always a problem as there is [sic] often questions on ‘who will police the regulator’”.

Having exposed all of these problems, one might expect the authors of the study to call for an outright ban on trophy hunting in the Matetsi Safari Area. Yet they refer merely to “a conservation and management dilemma” and recommend the implementation of age-based harvesting policies and the use of “ecological principles in the quota setting process”, while suggesting that for some species, hunting should be reduced or temporarily stopped by “introducing fallow or resting hunting years on a rotational basis” and that “temporal and spatial refuges” should be created “to facilitate ‘trophy hunting rest’”.

With the free for all in Zimbabwe since the virtual collapse of the state and all its organs post land invasions in 1999, no one really knows the extent of the looting in National Parks and other conservation areas where the situation may be far worse.

Also read: Is lion hunting sustainable?

Anti-poaching pooches

Earlier this year, I had the privilege of meeting some of the Kruger National Park’s anti-poaching team, and I fell in love with one of them. Muscular and strong, he embodied everything you would come to expect in this line of work. A fierce protector, he also had a heartbreakingly vulnerable side. He cowered when faced with the inevitable shouting and shooting that comes with successfully tracking down a poacher; visibly upset. He required affirmation at this moment, some acknowledgement for a job well done. Because this lovable ranger had been trained a little differently and, as a four-legged, waggy-tailed member of the canine team, he stole my heart.

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One of the new bloodhounds trained by Tracking and Conservation K9 Training for Kruger National Park ©Janine Avery

A history of canines in conservation

Man has trained dogs to help with work for generations. From security hounds and police force canines to hunting dogs, herding dogs and Anatolian shepherds that work to protect domestic livestock from predators, dogs are not only man’s best friend but have proven themselves to be some of our most valued employees and colleagues.

When it comes to anti-poaching, canine units are now all the rage, but this wasn’t always the case. Eric Ichikowitz, Director of the Ichikowitz Family Foundation, whose initiatives include the establishment of one of the most substantial anti-poaching skills and canine training academies in Africa, explains: “The first canine was introduced to Kruger National Park in December 2010 to help fight poaching. At the time, the use of canines in a Big Five game environment was met with a lot of resistance, and most commentators were of the view that canines were not suited for an anti-poaching role when faced with the Big Five.”

When the PAMS Foundation in Tanzania first started talking about the amazing abilities of tracking and detection dogs, little was known about working with dogs in Africa, and law enforcement and conservation officials were sceptical. But after seeing them in action, many a raised brow turned into a crinkled one as people began to formulate plans to establish anti-poaching canine units, and criminals who observed them in action soon started to fear them.

Kruger now has over 50 working dogs spread throughout the park

After the success of Ngwenya, the first dog to be introduced into the Kruger National Park, everyone began to see the impact that properly trained dogs and handlers could have in anti-poaching teams. Says Ichikowitz: “These days, almost all big reserves have a canine unit assisting their anti-poaching units. Since the launch of Paramount Group’s Anti-Poaching and K9 Academy, we have seen a rise in national parks – not just in South Africa but in many African countries – and private reserves that are establishing canine units in their parks.” For instance, Kruger now has over 50 working dogs spread throughout the park under the guidance of the dedicated and passionate Johan de Beer, who has been instrumental in setting up the canine centre in Kruger for the continued management of this programme.

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New dogs at the Kruger National Park Canine Centre pictured with Johan de Beer of SANParks and Gaven Holden-Smith of Tracking and Conservation K9 Training. Handlers’ faces are blurred to protect their identity. ©Janine Avery
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Pooches are hot on the trails of poachers ©K9 Conservation
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A handler and his best friend ©Jeremy Goss, Big Life Foundation

Types of dogs

While it would be wonderful to adopt every single rescue dog and turn them into anti-poaching pooches, the reality is that these dogs need to be selectively bred for efficiency in their specific line of work. As Kirsty Brebner, Rhino Project Manager at the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT), puts it: “You wouldn’t use a dachshund to cover long distances at speed – it just doesn’t have the legs. Breeds of choice are generally shepherds (Belgian and German), but other breeds include border collies, labradors, springer spaniels, beagles, bloodhounds and bloodhound crosses. Working Dogs for Conservation (WD4C) works successfully with shelters, but it is difficult – it takes assessing a lot of dogs to find the right dog with drive.”

For instance, in the Detection Dog Programme, supported by PAMS Foundation, which falls under the Tanzanian Police Horse and Dog Unit, there are nine dogs in the team. Five of these are a mixed-breed of local Tanzanian dog with some German shepherd. These dogs are more resistant to disease than foreign dogs and are better adapted to the local climate. And at Big Life Foundation in Kenya, they typically work with two breeds – bloodhounds and shepherds.

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Neels van Wyk, the Crocodile Bridge Section Ranger in Kruger, with a tracking bloodhound ©Janine Avery

However, there is a mixed breed rescue dog, called Didi, who is an exception to the rule. Jeremy Goss of Big Life Foundation explains: “She was selected because she certainly has some German shepherd in her, but that’s about all we know. Thanks to her diverse genetic background, Didi has turned out to be remarkably resilient to local diseases, and this makes up for her relative lack of scent receptors.”

When it comes to dogs with a strong sense of smell, you can’t go wrong with a hound. Foxhounds, blue ticks, and bloodhounds are all instinctively tracking dogs and can follow older tracks under challenging circumstances. It is said that one dog, together with its handler, can cover 60 times the area that a ranger without a dog could. Hounds also have great stamina and can handle extreme temperatures better than other breeds.

In Kruger, the latest additions of four bloodhound-doberman crosses have been a great success. One particular dog, Kilalo, even surprised her handler on a recent practice patrol when she led him on what he initially believed to be an incorrect detour after he lost sight of a poacher’s footprints. However, the dog was indeed still following her nose and managed to cut out a large section of track by taking a nifty shortcut. Together, Kilalo and her handler have already led to 18 successful poacher arrests in Kruger.

The rest of Kruger’s canine unit consists of a mix of bloodhounds, malinois and shepherds, with each dog playing a unique role. Specialised tracker dogs can follow spoor for up to two to three days; search dogs are used to detect species items such as rhino horn and ivory, or sniff out arms and ammunition at roadblocks, park gates, crime scenes or at suspect’s houses; and assault dogs are trained to attack and detain poachers.

Conraad de Rosner, founder and director for K9 Conservation, is well known for his work with weimaraners and Belgian malinois. Weimeraners are used to track animals, detect animal remains and snares, locate wounded animals and occasionally assist wildlife vets and scientists with their work. His malinois, on the other hand, are used for tracking human suspects, detecting firearms and bullet casings, and performing restraining functions when detaining suspects requires force. Rosner says: “While both breeds are classed as ‘patrol dogs’, their functions differ somewhat and often their skills and abilities complement and assist each other in the field. For this reason, and depending upon the situation, two field rangers – each with a different dog breed – are sometimes deployed together. All our dogs are trained in protection work, and they are capable of suspect apprehension should the need arise. These dogs are specially trained to bite or apprehend a suspect only upon command, and to detain that suspect with minimal force.”

With so many personalities around, it’s challenging to pick a favourite pooch. That said, van Straaten’s favourite breed is the Belgium malinois. The reason, he explains, “is that it’s a good all-rounder. It can track, apprehend a poacher, protect the handler, and search for evidence and illegal substances.” However, he does say that every dog he has worked with has a special place in his heart – they are all individuals.

Don't mess with a Kruger attack dog ©K9 Conservation
Don’t mess with an attack dog ©K9 Conservation
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An attack dog in training in Kruger National Park ©Ryan Avery
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And it must be anti-poaching puppy love! ©Jeremy Goss, Big Life Foundation

Trials and tribulations

It has not always been easy trying to convince rangers and anti-poaching teams, which have more than enough on their plate and limited access to funds, that dogs are a good idea. And, as the use of canines in conservation work progresses, new issues arise that need to be worked into budgets and training programmes.

For instance, dogs are initially often trained with rewards. Now, imagine a dog that has completed a job well done, suddenly to be faced with a situation in which the handler is in a combat zone, complete with gunshots, shouting and confusion. This is not the reaction the dog necessarily expected, and it can become frightened. Krissie Clark of PAMS Foundation explains: “Dog handlers have had to learn new skills and have to carry around dog treats and toys to reward the dogs when they detect the correct scent. One challenge is to keep the dogs productive and motivated, as they need to be finding the right scent regularly so they can be rewarded. Thus, operations need to be increasingly based on good intelligence to avoid doggy burnout (dogs sniffing for days on end without finding anything, resulting in limited rewards and playtime for the dogs).”

Handlers also need to know how to react if a dog gets injured in the bush, or how to keep their dogs fit if they can’t work for a couple of days or weeks for any reason. Sniffer dogs also don’t necessarily come across the contraband they are trained to sniff every day, such as rhino horn and ivory. Thus the dogs and their handlers need constant refresher courses to tackle these issues, often with trained professionals and specialised veterinarians, which can be challenging to arrange.

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EWT sniffer dog, Renaldo, quickly makes correct identifications during training ©Belinda Glenn, Endangered Wildlife Trust
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Launch of Paramount Group’s Anti-Poaching and K9 Academy ©Paramount Group
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Condor is rewarded with his ball during training ©Belinda Glenn, Endangered Wildlife Trust

Dogs themselves also need to be protected. They work in daytime temperatures that can often reach over 40ºC on challenging terrain, with several threats to their lives. De Rosner explains: “The challenge is, of course, being on a Big Five game reserve and the dangers that come with mostly walking on foot. The heat of the day also limits the working hours of the dog. The kit and equipment used for a working dog are crucial. It must be comfortable for the dog and easy to use for the handler. For instance, there are now companies that are testing lightweight but effective bulletproof vests for canines, which have a specialised gel that can regulate the dog’s body heat. So they keep it warm when it is colder or cool it down during hot temperatures.”

Also, specialised goggles to protect dog’s eyes, booties to prevent cuts and lacerations on their feet, compactable water bowls, air-conditioned portable kennels, and high-tech electric fences to keep predators out, are now all things seen on wishlists of game reserves across Africa. A handler no longer carries only a gun and a radio, but also a canine first aid kit and a ball for his trusty sidekick. Krissie Clark of PAMS Foundation elaborates: “As with any domestic animal, the detection dogs are susceptible to disease and heat. In Tanzania, if the dogs are working in the bush, trypanosoma (sleeping sickness), which is transmitted through tsetse fly bites, can kill them if not detected and treated early. There are also many other parasites to which the dogs may be susceptible. Good quality food and regular check-ups with the veterinarian are essential for healthy, happy dogs.”

Goss echoes these sentiments: “The African bush is a challenging environment – often hot, dry and dusty. The dust, in particular, has been a challenge for the bloodhounds due to the rolls of skin that they have, and our dogs were contracting frequent eye infections. They have now had operations to remove some of the excess skin around their eyes, which will hopefully solve the problem. There is only so much equipment that is useful when working with tracker dogs – the most important skill is a timeless one, and that is the handler’s understanding of the abilities (and limits) of their animals.”

It does indeed seem to be that the biggest challenge of all is selecting the best handler for each dog. But while it may be the greatest challenge to pair dog and handler, it also may be the greatest reward. Clark says: “It has been heartwarming to see how the relationships between the handlers and their specific dogs have developed so rapidly to the point that they have truly fallen in love with their dogs and care for them as if they are their own children. Developing such close bonds with dogs is so special.”

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An anti-poaching pooch leads the way! ©Jeremy Goss, Big Life Foundation
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Kennels at the Kruger Canine Centre ©Janine Avery
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Handlers and their dogs ©Jeremy Goss, Big Life Foundation

Notable achievements

Some of these canine units have become so successful that their operations have led to a significant decrease in poaching. De Rosner can proudly boast about one particular reserve, with an anti-poaching unit supplied by K9 Conservation, that saw the addition of 18 black rhinos two years ago. To date, all the rhinos are alive and well, and a few of the females are even pregnant. Goss echoes a similar sentiment: “When Big Life Foundation started using dogs in 2010, poaching (and particularly elephant poaching) was still a major threat in the Amboseli ecosystem. At that time, the dogs were responsible for tracking down poachers, with such success that they can certainly be identified as a factor in the huge reduction in poaching in Amboseli. But the dogs are now more important as a deterrent, as poachers know that it is highly risky to poach in these areas.”

Goss uses one particular incident to explain just how effective the dogs can be. This time it was Didi that was involved in tracking elephant poachers from a scene in Tsavo West National Park. “It started the same way that all elephant poaching incidents do – the grisly discovery of lifeless bodies, five of them in this case, lying in the bush with their faces hacked off — a family group of all ages. The Kenya Wildlife Service tracker dog was straight on the poachers’ trail. The Big Life tracker dog, Didi, and rapid response units joined the hunt where the tracks left the Tsavo West National Park, moving onto community land. The tracks ran, and the rangers ran with them. Assisted at times by expert human trackers, the dogs led the rangers to two neighbouring homes. There was no sign of the ivory, but Didi led the search to a home that contained two axes and a saw, still wet with blood. With the help of the local community, two suspects were identified and arrested. Big Life activated its informer network and, a day later, word came back on a third member of the gang, hiding out in a small town some 40 miles from where the elephants were killed. An undercover Big Life team went in that evening, and together with a back-up unit, arrested the third suspect at 4 am the next morning.”

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A sniffer dog is on the scent in Kruger ©Ryan Avery

And when it comes to arrests, the dogs are proving to play a vital role. Notable achievements include the detection of ivory in several critical cases in Tanzania involving notorious Chinese poaching syndicates. And in South Africa, according to a recent statement from SANParks, “over the past ten months, the canine units have successfully tracked and taken down over 90% of the poachers arrested in the Kruger National Park.”

Ichikowitz says: “The most notable achievement is Killer, a Belgian malinois that was trained by us and that is deployed in Kruger National Park as part of their anti-poaching unit. Killer and his handler have been responsible for the arrest of 115 groups of poachers in Kruger. Killer received a gold medal from Prince Harry for his contribution to conservation.” While another of the Paramount Group’s pooches, Arrow, made history earlier this year when he became Africa’s first skydiving anti-poaching dog, truly taking conservation efforts to new heights.

Another particularly special canine is Duma, a German shepherd puppy at the Fundimvelo Thula Thula Rhino Orphanage. He plays the role of protector and playmate for orphaned rhinos and will go and get the carers if a rhino is calling or awake. The team at the orphanage are also trying to train him to detect orphaned rhino calves in the bush.

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A parachuting pooch ©Paramount Group
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Camouflaged and ready to take to the skies ©Paramount Group

 

What the future looks like

A positive message of success consistently comes from the people involved with canine anti-poaching units. In the words of Kirsty Brebner, Rhino Project Manager at EWT: “Conservation dogs are playing an increasingly important role in tackling the scourge of wildlife crime – these animals are often the unsung heroes in this battle.”

The future looks promising but, according to Brebner, “increased and more dangerous contact with poachers, as well as smarter ways of smuggling contraband, need changes in training methods. The most valuable thing I think is networking and the sharing of successes and failures. I think that this is critical going forward – that we encourage dog programmes to talk to each other, share, and even have rangers from new projects spend time with seasoned rangers.”

Van Straaten also emphasises that, as poaching activities become more complex, so anti-poaching methods need to adapt. “New projects are on the way where dogs are going to be trained to detect poison and gunshots to take the handler to the crime scene where the shots are being fired. These skills add value to the dogs and will make the dog teams much more functional and efficient.”

Other projects include the use of canines at more points along the supply chains of illegal wildlife products, including international shipping and aircraft ports, a coordination between on-the-ground canine units and drone technology, and even a coordinated project between the National Parks Agency of Gabon and the Ichikowitz Family Foundation, to introduce an anti-poaching canine team to protect Gabon’s forest elephants.

De Beer sums it all up, succinctly: “I do think that anti-poaching units will never again work without a good tracking dog.”

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EWT Rhino Project Manager, Kirsty Brebner, Afri Guard Training Manager, Nick van Loggerenberg, and Afri Guard PEDD Handler, Beny van Zyl, with Condor ©Belinda Glenn, Endangered Wildlife Trust
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An anti-poaching pooch prepares for take-off ©Paramount Group

How you can help

There are many ways that people can help to support the canine anti-poaching units. The best way is often through a responsible monetary donation, as any funds can then be combined to spend on priority items. Unfortunately, much of the gear and medical equipment is highly specialised and can only be purchased from specific suppliers.

You can also make contact with the different canine units featured below to find out their wishlists if you prefer to provide a specific item or service.
– Ichikowitz Family Foundation
– Paramount Group
– Ngala Private Game Reserve, supported by Our Horn is NOT Medicine
– PAMS Foundation, Tanzania
– SANParks’ Kruger National Park K9 Centre, supported by the Lowveld Region of the SANParks Honorary Rangers
– EWT’s Rhino Conservation Project
– Big Life Foundation
K9 Conservation

Also read: More dogs for Kruger’s canine unit

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An anti-poaching dog keeps an eye out for rhino in Balule Private Game Reserve ©Craig Spencer

About the author

janine-avery-victoria-falls-zimbabweJANINE AVERY is the first to confess that she has been bitten by the travel bug… badly. She is a lover of all things travel, from basic tenting with creepy crawlies to lazing in luxury lodges – she will give it all a go.

Janine is passionate about wildlife and conservation, and she comes from a long line of biologists, researchers and botanists.

PHASA to defend captive-bred lion resolution

The Professional Hunters Association of South Africa (PHASA) is to defend its position on captive-bred lion hunting and breeding in the Pretoria High Court on 22 November. Originated by The Professional Hunters’ Association of South Africa

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Captive lion cubs – bred for the bullet. © Blood Lions, Pippa Hankinson.

Ironically, the court date coincides with the association’s 39th annual general meeting (AGM) to be held from 21 to 23 November this year.

A year ago, the majority of members voted in favour of the association’s resolution to distance itself from captive-bred lion (CBL) hunting and breeding until such time as the South African Predators Association (SAPA) could convince PHASA and the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) of the conservation value of captive-bred lions.

Today, PHASA’s CBL resolution still stands; SAPA has failed to prove the above.

“Members engaging in CBL activities would be in direct violation of PHASA’s constitution, and would face an internal disciplinary hearing, which will end in dismissal if found guilty,” explains PHASA President, Stan Burger.

Why go to court?

Some PHASA members who wish to continue hunting CBL, and had their membership of PHASA suspended by the executive committee, have challenged their suspensions and the resolution taken at the 2015 AGM by approaching the court.

“PHASA stands by its resolution to distance itself from captive-bred lion hunting and breeding, and will defend its CBL resolution in court,” says Burger

PHASA’s concerns

“PHASA’s concern is rooted in the fact that the prevailing view amongst carnivore specialists, is that “the breeding of lions in captivity does not contribute to the conservation of the species,” notes Burger.

The above-mentioned view is shared by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES), the IUCN, the US Fish & Wildlife Services (USFWS), the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) and many more, including local hunting associations and many prominent international hunting associations (and hunters) across the globe.

The mere adherence to the minimum national and provincial legislative requirements of our country and/or the SAPA norms and accreditation process does not lend CBL shooting any credibility nor give it any social license. “No activity that is not socially acceptable is sustainable,” adds Burger.

“Captive-bred lion breeding and shooting do not uphold the moral principle that justifies responsible, ethical and legal hunting of wild lion (where the conservation value of hunting has been scientifically proven time and again) under the conditions of Fair Chase. For this reason, it is ethically indefensible and we will not support it,” says Burger.

Read more about South Africa’s captive lion breeding industry

The art of pottery making in Sudan

The streets in Sudan are lined with pottery. Every few hundred meters large clay pots are placed, full of clean, drinking water. And the clay keeps the water cool, even in the desert’s baking sun.

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“The Sudanese are very generous,” my guide explained when I asked about the jugs. “They’ll put water in the pots every morning for people to drink because it gets so hot.” In fact, the water in Sudan is the best I’ve ever had. It’s a touch on the sweet side and pumped straight from the Nile.

My guide explained that, “The age-old tradition of pottery making is a skill passed down through the generations. But it’s a dying tradition.”

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On the main road we came across a huge clay compound. From this one location the clay is collected, mashed up by a young boy whose sole duty is to crush out all the air as though he were crushing grapes. Beside him sits the pot maker.

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He sits for hours, moulding and shaping the pots and remarkably, each pot looks exactly the same as the one before. There’s absolutely no difference, yet all of the pots are hand made. Once moulded into shape, the pots are placed in the kiln which is fired by a huge fire-pit dug into the clay mound.

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Each person in the compound has their specific job; the air-crusher, the clay collector, the fire controller and the pot maker. Clay is quite popular in Sudan and found abundantly. In fact, most of the houses are built of clay – clay bricks are moulded and simply left in the sun to dry, becoming as hard and as reliable as standard bricks.

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“Because of the plastic coolers coming in, this tradition will soon be lost,” my guide said sadly.

Yet again, plastic seems to be taking over livelihoods and it’s a sad fate that old traditions like these are doomed. You might think of it as progress or development but really it sets us back and with the continuing consumption of plastic we continue to suffocate our planet – the one true home we really should be taking better care of.

Read more:

a cultural awakening in Sudan

Seventy years of studies on Sudanese pottery 

A petrified forest in Sibiloi National Park

Sibiloi National Park in northern Kenya is vast, arid, remote and miles from the capital Nairobi and wildlife areas that the country is famed for.

“Next on our itinerary is the petrified forest,” said our guide as he came by our hotel to pick us up. “That’s interesting,” I thought to myself, curious to find out what a petrified forest looked like. We were on a week-long tour to Northern Kenya’s Sibiloi National Park. The drive from our hotel to Karsa Gate (the main entrance to the Sibiloi National Park) was about an hour or so. It took another half an hour from the entrance to reach the site of the petrified forest.
sibiloi-national-park

Discovered by researchers in the early ’70s, this site of numerous fossilised sections of trees, dates back to prehistoric times. According to our guide, this scrubland was once covered with lakes, rivers and lush rain forest. Powerful torrential rivers carried fallen trees into a vast swampland. The trees sank deep into the morass absorbing sediment and large amounts of the minerals in the water. Over an inordinate amount of time the trees became fossilised and turned into stone.Sibiloi

We immediately embarked on the trek up the hill. Most of the petrified tree trunks are strewn across hilly terrain. This means the petrified forest is mainly accessible by foot. It was hot. The sun was merciless. Eleven o’clock and the heat of the day was already in the mid-30s. Plodding up, using the protruding roots and rocks as support, I steadily made my way to the top following a marked path. Interspersed with huge logs of stone and countless broken chunks strewn about the ground, the hike gives you an up-close and touchable experience with the petrified trunks.
Sibiloi

At the top of the hill, we were able to enjoy uninterrupted views of the petrified forest, the panoramic view gives you an overall lay of the land, with some of the petrified tree trunks looking like small dots from afar. The view was well worth walking through the sweltering heat. We spend a good amount of time up close and personal with the petrified trunks taking pictures, exploring the surroundings, watching the stone tree trunks sparkle in the sunlight and simply savouring the views.
Sibiloi

All in all, it was a fascinating experience to hike through this place that was once a forest but vanished aeons ago. I loved this unique natural phenomenon that seemed to be from another world, a place resembling a mysterious cache of natural art frozen in stone. An austere landscape where the past speaks about a history of repeated jolts of climate change.

The petrified forest in Sibiloi National Park is definitely one of Kenya’s hidden gems and I would highly recommend this place to anyone. Get to experience life in this middle-of-nowhere in Kenya’s northern frontier. The remoteness undoubtedly adds to the charm of the destination.

If you are planning a trip to the petrified forest plan to carry your camera for excellent photographic opportunities. It goes without saying that in the blistering terrain you will need to refresh and replenish yourself with plenty of water, but also probably a good idea to pack some snacks. Don’t forget to put on your sunscreen and if possible wear a hat.

A shout out to Abdikadirhe, a curator at the nearby Loiyangalani Museum, who was not only a wonderful guide but gladly shared his wealth of information about the petrified forest.

Also read: Kenya’s Shaba National Reserve: wild Africa at its best

The model and the San

How can I begin to tell the story of the Ju/’Hoansi-San people? There are so many stories to tell, and they are the original storytellers. They have hunted and gathered for centuries, and they have left a long legacy of taking responsibility for the natural world around them, which they understand to be their provider.

The San have always been survivors who adapt against the odds, and perhaps this is partly due to their exemplary ethos of sharing everything they have with each other. For they believe that if we share, we will have enough.

San hunters stalking prey using bows and poisoned arrows ©Christian Boix
San hunters stalking prey using bows and poisoned arrows ©Christian Boix

The Ju/’Hoansi-San people of the Nyae Nyae

The country that we now call Namibia was settled by hunter-gatherers at least 100,000 years ago. This may have only recently been proven by scientists thanks to archaeological discoveries, but the few hunter-gatherers that remain have always been aware of their ancestry. Now known as bushmen or the San, their ancestors were Namibia’s very first citizens, and they are part of one of the oldest tribes on Earth. Experts say we can still find traces of the earliest relatives of modern man in their genes.

Most people have heard of the Maasais, the Zulus, and many other indigenous groups across Africa but, for some reason, the San are often overlooked. Perhaps some people prefer to forget that the San were once classified as animals; that they were showcased in museums; that they were hunted for sport, trapped and abused.

San children playing together ©Christian Boix
San children playing together ©Christian Boix
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A San tribesman prepares a freshly caught animal for consumption ©Aleksandra Ørbeck-Nilsen
San people set off with poles used to hook and retrieve porcupines or spring hares from their deep burrows ©Christian Boix
San people set off with poles used to hook and retrieve porcupines or spring hares from their deep burrows ©Christian Boix

2,300 Ju/’Hoansi-San are living in the Nyae Nyae Conservancy – a semi-desert region covered by thorn bush that is located in part of an area, formerly known as Bushmanland, that was used to segregate ethnic groups during Apartheid.

Due to a rapidly developing world, today the San are arguably considered to be the most marginalised group in Southern Africa and are squeezed into 10% of their former territory. They live in extreme poverty and have been forced away from their original lands as a result of illegal land grabbing, leaving the San unable to survive in their traditional way. It used to be easy for the San women to gather when they could move from place to place, but nowadays the resources in their area do not have enough time to replenish, and the community is in competition with the elephants over the little food that is available. As a result, food security is generally quite low in San communities, and not many youths gain a basic education, so illiteracy and unemployment rates are very high.

The majority of the children living in this isolated region don’t have a bright future, and the health status of the San is undoubtedly linked to their low socio-economic status, as their life expectancy – at just 48 years – is 22% lower than the national average. These may all be sad facts, but the San are not unhappy people. On the contrary, they are great, and I feel lucky to learn from them.

If you are someone who adds baobab powder to your smoothie, follows a Banting diet, or tries to focus more on the now and to own less, then you are already following in the footsteps of the San without even necessarily knowing it. Ancient knowledge is catching up with us in a modern context, and there is a reverse trend towards a simpler way of life. But the San are already experts in this field.

A San game that involves enacting a mirror image of your opponent ©Christian Boix
A San game that involves enacting a mirror image of your opponent ©Christian Boix
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A San tribal dance around the fire ©Jarrod Kyte
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The San people are the original hunter-gatherers of Africa ©Harald Pokeiser

A barefoot solution

When I first went to Africa, I was like many travellers in that I wanted to help. But when I met the San people, I realised that the opposite had happened. They had saved me from my poverty of perception and opened my eyes to how much we can all teach each other. What they may lack in material wealth, they more than make up for in richness of spirit.

I started to realise that the western perception of Africa is creating more limitations than possibilities. For many years westerners have been arrogantly trying to change people’s lives without actually including them in the decision-making process.

This inspired me to upgrade the traditional outreach approach to encourage inter-dependency so that both parties give and receive. We need knowledge exchange and communication to all be able to live happily in this world, and everyone needs to teach and be taught.

Cultural tourism involves profiting from indigenous communities by offering tourists a chance to see how the locals live. However, in many cases, the tour operators are getting richer from this initiative, while the local people and their culture is becoming poorer. If cultural tourism is the only future that awaits, it’s understandable why school drop-out rates and alcohol abuse is rife in some indigenous communities.

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A San tribesman bends down to talk with Aleksandra ©Harald Pokeiser
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Aleksandra sitting around the fire talking to the tribesmen ©Harald Pokeiser
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A skilled San tracker shares his knowledge with Aleksandra ©Louis Libenberg

However, there are ways to share the stories, dreams, ideas and experiences of African tribes without compromising their lifestyle or pride. At Nanofasa Conservation Trust, we believe that ancient knowledge can create modern-day work opportunities. Nanofasa is a non-profit trust in Namibia that was established in Norway in 2011, and that aims to empower the ancient San communities living next to conservation areas to protect wildlife while maintaining and celebrating their culture.

Nanofasa means ‘nature never jumps’ and, together with the San people, the organisation works to ensure healthy and productive interactions between nature, culture and communities to conserve biodiversity and ecosystems for a sustainable future.

The Chinese proverb goes: “Give a man a fish, and you feed him for a day; teach him how to fish, and you feed him for a lifetime.” However, what happens if you do not need to teach a man a skill because he has all the skills he needed for thousands of years until modernity took away many of his possibilities to live off the land? Give a man a job he does not like, and there will be little success. However, if you give him the resources he needs to make his skills and knowledge useful again, you then have a sustainable model at hand.

Nanofasa provides San people with the opportunity to become qualified trackers, traditional teachers, guides, and botanists, then assist the Nanofasa research team in ensuring that their surrounding environment thrives. The San people have passed invaluable skills from generation to generation, and Nanofasa’s Barefoot Academy empowers individuals in their area of expertise.

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Two women from very different cultures connect ©Harald Pokeiser
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The team at Nanofasa ©Nanofasa Conservation Trust
Learning about the San ©Harald Pokeiser

The moral of the story

The Ju/’Hoansi-San have shown me that nature needs people and that people need nature. Their intrinsic understanding of this symbiosis is why we decided to run Nanofasa based on a model where the San are responsible for leading the way to sustainability.

For real development to take place, we need to nurture, protect and preserve not only our natural environment and wildlife but also our people, their culture and customs. Local communities are the key to a sustainable future. Nanofasa wishes to assist in the battle against poverty and discrimination by facilitating projects that are initiated by the San communities, grounded in their participation and driven forward by the local people themselves.

We need to start working with communities and natural areas within Africa that have stories to tell – stories that will make outsiders want to contribute. We do not have to sell Africa and all its contents; we can tell its stories so that they can continue to be written for generations to come.

We can switch our phones to silent, rewild our perceptions and roar together as one. The tracks are already there, but we have to read them and choose which direction to take. And I choose to leave tracks alongside the San, with the hope of heading together towards a sustainable future.

Working towards a sustainable future with the San people ©Harald Pokeiser
Following in the footsteps of the San ©Louis Liebenberg

 

About the author

aleksandra-orbeck-nilsenAleksandra Ørbeck-Nilssen is a 26-year-old viking from Norway. She is the founder and CEO of Nanofasa Conservation Trust, and has a heart that is dedicated to Namibian communities and wildlife conservation.

After working many years as a model and actress at an international level in Paris and New York, Aleksandra chose to settle in Africa. She now works to protect the remaining wilderness in Namibia – the home of giant trees, endangered wildlife, and the ancient San tribe.

Zambian poaching crisis fuelled by Chinese military

Zambia’s elephant population has declined by about 90% due to poaching. Its black rhino population, estimated at 13,000 in 1981, is now extinct. Oscar Nkala visited the border town of Livingstone to find out what’s driving the poaching crisis. Written by: Oscar Nkala for Oxpeckers 

An estimated 14 elephant tusks worth US$140,000 were found in two suitcases belonging to Colonel Oscar Chapula, then military adviser to the commander of the Zambian army, as the commander’s entourage prepared to fly out on a seven-day working visit to China on 29th May 2013.

Zambia game rangers
Zambian game rangers and vets remove a wire snare that had entangled Inonge, a matriarch rhino in the Mosia-Tunya National Park near Livingstone on 8 February this year. The rhino survived another snaring incident early in 2014 ©Oscar Nkala

Chapula was arrested, along with two unnamed Chinese embassy officials who reportedly claimed diplomatic immunity. They were released following interventions by authorities, including then defence minister Geoffrey Mwamba, army commander Brigadier General Paul Mihova, and the then Chinese ambassador to Zambia, Zhou Yuxiao, who deployed his military attaché to win back custody of the tusks, according to a report in the Zambian Watchdog.

“The latest [ivory] seizure and arrests at the Kenneth Kaunda International Airport involved some diplomats. We needed to get some clearance from the Ministry of Home Affairs for police to conduct interviews so that they can establish who the owner of the tusks was and where those tusks were going,” the then Zambian minister of tourism and arts, Sylvia Masebo, said on 12 June 2013 as she explained why the government had not opened an investigation into the incident.

That was the last official pronouncement on the case, and none of the Chinese embassy or Zambian army officials involved were ever prosecuted.

Army role in poaching

According to a Transparency International Government Defence Anti-Corruption Index report of February 2015, there is a “very high risk” of defence force corruption in Zambia.

The report probed for evidence of defence institutions having control or financial interests in businesses associated with natural resource exploitation, what the interests were, and whether they were publicly stated or subjected to scrutiny.

“Members of the Zambian army and police units, all suffering from income declines, possess the weapons and authority to support a great deal of illegal hunting activity,” it said.

“A report by the Zambia Wildlife Conservation Society found well-documented incidents of army personnel setting up roadblocks at game park entrances. Army vehicles, laden with meat and tusks, would be seen driving away later.

“Even if not directly poaching, soldiers and police have regularly allowed other Zambians to rent, purchase, or borrow official weapons and ammunition.

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Slaughter scene: piles of game meat recovered from poachers in March 2016 ©Zambian Parks and Wildlife Authority

“There are also allegations of Chinese diplomats involved in cartels with rogue military officials in Zambia in exporting ivory to China. There is no evidence to suggest that the interests of defence and security institutions involved in illegal hunting are publicly declared and subject to public and parliamentary scrutiny,” the anti-graft watchdog concluded.

On 16 May this year, the Zambian Department of National Parks and Wildlife announced that Zambian Air Force captain Mwiya Masheke and flight sergeant Mutemwa Chripine had been detained, together with Namibian national Nefuma Taleni Stefanus and Zambian businessman Martin Maimba, in connection with the illegal possession of rhino horns weighing 3.9kg.

The four were arrested by police acting on a tip-off while they were allegedly selling the ivory to the businessman at a shopping mall in Chawama township, Lusaka. They were remanded in custody after appearing in court on charges of violating the Zambia Wildlife Act.

Poaching – an organised crime

Earlier this year, Deputy Tourism Minister Patrick Ngoma told a regional wildlife conference in Victoria Falls that Chinese ivory trafficking syndicates were responsible for hiring Zambians to poach elephants and rhinos in Zimbabwe, Botswana, Angola and Namibia.

Ngoma pointed out that, despite some improvements in counter-poaching initiatives, Zambia is struggling to contain the internal poaching crisis, which has led to the extinction of the country’s black rhinos over the past decades.

Asked to comment on whether the government had found evidence of Zambian army involvement in poaching, Ngoma said it would be unfair to label the army as an institutional driver of the poaching crisis, although some soldiers had been found to be involved in ivory poaching and trafficking.

“In Zambia, we have poaching syndicates made up of locals, some of them in the army, and yes, some Chinese as well as Zimbabwean, Malawian, Tanzanian, Namibian and Congolese [Democratic Republic of Congo] nationals,” he said.

“In cases where soldiers are arrested, they face the same criminal justice system as everybody else. We are not looking at apportioning blame, but rather we want to stop poaching regardless of whether the perpetrators are soldiers, civilians or foreigners.”

The army’s public relations officer, Lieutenant Colonel Luwespo Sinyinza, told Oxpeckers that, like in every other army in the world, there are rogue soldiers who commit crimes while serving. However, he said the activities of a few “rogues” should not be used to create the impression that the army as an institution is involved in poaching.

“The Zambian army, like all other professional institutions, has to deal with rogue soldiers who commit crimes from time to time. We always let the law deal with the criminals as individuals. We, therefore, do not understand why the media and other organisations should use isolated incidents to paint the army as a poaching institution,” Sinyinza said.

He declined to comment on whether there had been any follow-ups to the 2013 ivory seizure at Kenneth Kaunda International Airport involving Chapula and two Chinese embassy officers. Efforts to contact former defence minister Mwamba were unsuccessful.

Multiple drivers

Conservation bodies estimate Zambia has lost more than 144,000 elephants to poaching in the past 30 years. According to the International Union for the Conservation of Nature, the country’s elephant population has declined by 90%, from an estimated 160,000 in 1981 to just over 16,000 in 2015.

The black rhino population, estimated at 13,000 in 1981, has been depleted to extinction by poachers. Only a small population of white rhinos remains in national parks.

The Zambian government’s attempts to contain the multiple drivers of the poaching crisis have failed since the extinction of the black rhino in 1984, said a report published by the American University (Washington DC) in February 2015.

“Faced with the extinction of the black rhino and the decimation of the elephant, the Zambian government initiated several wildlife conservation policies, including cross-border agreements with Zimbabwe and other countries where rhino and elephant poaching is common, aimed at reducing the amount of rhino and elephant poaching,” it said. “But these conservation efforts have had little long-term impacts as many Zambian poachers have crossed the border to neighbouring Zimbabwe to continue poaching.

“Other problems – such as a weak economy, limited resources for wildlife preservation, competition with local farmers for land, the politics of wildlife legislation and a very lucrative global market in ivory – have made it very difficult for the Zambian government to protect its rhino and elephant populations.”

The current Tourism and Arts Minister, Jean Kapata, said the government was concerned about the emergence of poaching syndicates, which have resorted to the use of poisons to kill elephants in large numbers.

“Of late, we are more concerned about the use of poisons to kill animals, especially elephants and hyenas, vultures and other collateral poaching targets. These poaching syndicates remain a threat to all the gains we have achieved working together over the last 30 years,” Kapata said at an event held on 22 March 2016 to commemorate 30 years of working with the Frankfurt Zoological Society on elephant conservation initiatives through the North Luangwa (National Park) Conservation Programme.

Chinese-Zambian army relationship

Military relations between China and Zambia have blossomed, with the sale of aircraft, small arms and, more recently, patrol boats to equip the new Zambia Army Marine Commando force, which was set up to patrol the country’s lakes and rivers last August.

Three months after the May 2013 arrest of the Chinese diplomats and the seizure of the elephant tusks, Chinese ambassador Zhou Yuxiao announced the signing of a US$8-million agreement on the sale of military equipment to Zambia.

The deal also covered the secondment of 11 Chinese doctors to Zambian army hospitals, as well as the rehabilitation of military hospitals in the towns of Ndola and Maina Soko.

In April 2014, the two countries capped their relationship with a Zambian air force order of six Chinese jets worth US$100-million. The first aircraft was due to be delivered to Zambia within the first half of 2016.

Ambassador Zhou Yuxiao left Zambia in July 2014, and was replaced by the current ambassador, Yang Youming.

He did not respond to questions emailed to him by Oxpeckers, as advised by an embassy official. Oxpeckers was also unable to get a response from the Chinese chancellory, an annex of the embassy in Lusaka.

Pack of rogue domestic dogs chase animals in Kruger

A pack of nine domestic dogs were spotted recently on the S3 near the Kruger National Park (KNP) by Samuel Breisacher and his uncle Daniel Waldis. The dogs were chasing a jackal. Source: Lowvelder

dogs-kruger

Breisacher said these dogs might have crossed over into the KNP from the Cork community. They crossed the dry Sabie River into the park. The sighting was reported to rangers that Breisacher luckily bumped into on the S3.

“I could see the rangers were shocked and worried. They immediately radioed for help and left in a hurry,” he said. “‘I have never seen anything like this. The dogs were very focused and showed the same behaviour as wild dogs. It is not good at all that they were in the park because they might have diseases and pass that on to the other animals, especially the wild dogs,” said Breisacher.

Breisacher is a chocolatier from Stellenbosch and his main chocolate brand, Le Chocolatier, is sold in the retail outlets in the camps so he frequents the KNP often. He is a dedicated conservationist. One of his other chocolate brands, Big 5, is designed to further the cause of saving endangered rhinos. A portion of the profit goes towards Unite Against Poaching.

Dr Kelly Marnewick, manager of Endangered Wildlife Trust’s Carnivore Conservation Programme, is currently busy with Grant Beverley, field officer for the EWT’s Kruger Park Wild Dog Project. They are darting and inoculating wild dogs in the KNP against distemper and other diseases. She said there is a danger of passing diseases on if dogs like these come into contact with wild dogs during a fight.

Since May seven packs of wild dogs have been vaccinated. It is estimated by Marnewick that there are only 300 of them left in the KNP, and only 500 in South Africa.

“It is difficult to say if these dogs would be able to reach the wild dogs, but it is a real risk if they do get to a pack that has not been vaccinated,” said Marnewick.

As recently as 13 May 2016 a pack of wild dogs was found dead with distemper, a dog disease caused by a virus found in domestic canines. The virus had wiped out the pack within 48 hours of it being detected, indicating an incredibly vicious strain.

Canine distemper quickly attacks the nervous system and causes discharge from the eyes and nose, excessive diarrhoea, lung damage, vomiting and eventual death.

There was an outcry on Facebook when Breisacher mentioned his sighting. Regular Kruger visitors stated that the dogs belong to poachers, who use them in packs to hunt down animals in the areas around their communities for subsistence living and to sell to bush butcheries.

Mr Wiliam Mabasa, acting head of communications at SANParks, said the dogs will be put down if they are found in the park. “The danger remains that rabies could be passed on to other animals if these dogs are disease-ridden.”

A dog with rabies was recently put down in White River by the SPCA. White River is about an hour’s drive from the community that Breisacher thinks the dogs hailed from.

Taking a safari to new levels

Africa Geographic organised for our safari to start in Zimbabwe with a visit to Hwange National Park at the wonderful Camp Hwange. Located in a beautiful open area of the park, Camp Hwange overlooks a pan that constantly attracts elephants, zebras, impalas, sables, and warthogs. The hosts, the guides and the food were all exceptional, and we enjoyed both game drives and walking safaris. Written by: Justin Mason

safari

There were many highlights of the trip – approaching a huge bull elephant on foot and tracking a lioness through the bush, only to be warned off by a growl, were just a couple of these. The game viewing was terrific every single day, and we enjoyed several amazing lion encounters and a very special encounter with African wild dogs.

safari hwange-wild-dogs

After Hwange, we travelled by road to Botswana where we met up with other AG guests and our brilliant guides Francois and Alex. Suffice it to say we had a week full of laughs and incredible game viewing. Based at an excellent campsite, we explored the stunning and harsh landscape of the Savute in Chobe National Park.

The trip’s predator theme lived up to its name and we enjoyed exceptional sightings and photographic opportunities of the elusive leopard, as well as lions and hyenas on many occasions, and we also spotted Savuti’s wild dogs. Elephants drinking in a dust storm, the exceptional birdlife, baobabs at sunset, and the diversity of game were all very special highlights. Each evening we sat around the campfire and listened to the resident leopard roaring as she circled the camp, while we photographed the beautiful owls that visited the site.

savuti-lioness safari lilac-breasted-roller

We eventually had to bid a fond farewell to our group and headed back to Zimbabwe to finish our trip at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge and the famous ‘smoke that thunders’. AG was spot-on once more and we cannot more highly recommend this fun and friendly hotel, its gorgeous views, busy waterhole, terrific rooms, delicious food and extensive range of activities.

Witnessing firsthand the Victoria Falls was not only magnificent but a thoroughly enjoyable and awe-inspiring experience, as was canoeing and fishing on the wonderful Zambezi River, while dodging hippos and crocodiles and watching a variety of game coming down to drink. Christian from AG recommended that we visit Siduli Hide on our final morning on safari in Vic Falls, and indeed it was a fascinating and fun end to a trip not to be missed.

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Thank you Africa Geographic! Zimbabwe and Botswana – we will be back!

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A photographic bonanza of predators in Savuti

Written by: Francois van Heerden (guide)

I had the pleasure of guiding Africa Geographic guests on a photographic trip to search for predators in Savute – Chobe National Park, Botswana. Here are some images and feedback from the trip.

Early morning rays ©Joe Knapman
Early morning rays ©Joe Knapman

When we arrived in Kasane and saw warthogs running down the main road through town, we knew this was going to be an experience we would all remember!

After settling in and meeting all participants on our first afternoon, we set off on a leisurely boat cruise down the Chobe River. We were soon elated to watch herds of elephant and buffalo crowding on the river banks to quench their thirst. Pods of hippo snorted and sprayed as we floated by, and massive crocodiles that were basking on the banks watched us carefully as we approached and left them behind.

Few treats beat a Photographic cruise on the Chobe like the one that awaited us on the first day © Joe Knapman
Few treats beat a photographic cruise on the Chobe like the one that awaited us on the first day ©Joe Knapman

Early the next morning we set off for Savuti, taking in the sights along the way and stopping for a packed lunch in the middle of nowhere. Upon arrival at our private campsite, we were excited to note that we were superbly positioned next to the Savuti Channel. The excitement was palpable as everyone realised what an idyllic and productive base this would be from which to explore this surreal wilderness. Our first drive served as an excellent taste of what was to come, as we saw two leopards with a kill up a big old camel thorn tree!

Kickstarting the safari in style by seeing a leopard in a camelthorn tree. ©Francois van Heerden
Kickstarting the safari in style by seeing a leopard in a camelthorn tree ©Francois van Heerden

The evenings in camp were accompanied by an orchestra of sounds as the bush came alive around us with smaller predators calling incessantly. The barred owl, the white-faced scops owl, the pearl-spotted owl and the African scops owls even modelled for the odd photo shoot! Every single night we heard the territorial calls of lions and leopards around camp, and a leopard strolled through camp twice in plain sight, without a care in the world. We were also visited by an endearing honey badger one evening after dinner!

An Africa barred owl warming up for its crepuscular serenade ©Sarah Drake
An African barred-owl warming up for its crepuscular serenade ©Sarah Drake

Dinner was, without exception, simply amazing! The camp staff provided excellent bush cooked meals, including an utterly decadent chocolate cake cooked in a pan over the open fire. The staff, guides and cooks at our exclusive mobile tented camp did an awesome job, seamlessly keeping the mood upbeat and the element of surprise alive. There is not enough praise to commend their efforts in making us feel simultaneously at home and pampered whilst in the bush – they truly re-defined ‘glamping’.

Glamping ©Justin Mason
Camping in style in Savuti ©Justin Mason
Fun times at camp ©Justin Mason
Fun times at camp ©Justin Mason

Every drive had its highlight but the first morning set the tone for the rest of the trip, as a big sandstorm gave us the unusual photographic opportunity to watch and photograph several bull elephants drinking against an eerie, ghostly white backdrop.

Elephant drinking ©Francois Van Heerden
An elephant drinking ©Francois Van Heerden

We managed to locate lions on almost every drive and it was such a pleasure to photograph the well-known Savuti Marsh Pride. Years ago when the Savuti Channel dried up, this pride survived against the odds by learning to take down elephants, as game was hard to come by with such little water available.

Lioness on the prowl ©Joe Knapmann
A lioness on the prowl ©Joe Knapman

The harshness of Savuti cannot be easily explained, it has to be experienced. Fortunately for the lions and the elephants, the channel started flowing again and the general game returned to the area, providing the predators with easier hunting opportunities.

After an awesome week of fantastic sightings around every corner – we managed to see spotted hyenas on a few occasions and even endangered African wild dogs – the only thing we were missing was a sighting of one the area’s iconic male lions. And, as if on cue, on the last morning drive before we had to head back to Kasane, we were spoilt with two of the dominant male Marsh Pride lions feasting on a buffalo that had been hunted the night before. Watching these two kings was just a perfect send-off and we could not have asked for a better grand finale.

Early morning rambler ©Joe Knapmann
An early morning rambler ©Joe Knapman
A royal whisker licking treat ©Justin Mason
A royal whisker-licking treat ©Justin Mason

All in all, it was a truly memorable trip for many reasons, but most particularly thanks to the passionate, dedicated and enthusiastic group of people who I can today call friends. It was the perfect combination of guests with a great sense of humour and a seasoned understanding of the bush, and great support staff and facilities, as well as endless photographic opportunities to extend portfolios.

The Savute team ©Peter Sandyford
The Savuti team ©Peter Sandyford

And in case you needed any more convincing, here’s what some of our guests had to say:

“This trip lived up to its name and we enjoyed exceptional sightings and photographic opportunities, including the elusive leopard as well as lion and hyena on many occasions. We even spotted the Savuti wild dogs. Elephants drinking in a dust storm, the exceptional birdlife, baobabs at sunset and the diversity of game were all very special highlights. Each evening we sat around the campfire and listened to the resident leopard roaring as she circled the camp, stunning and never to be forgotten, and in between we photographed the beautiful owls that visited.” –  Justin Mason, UK

“There is an energy and heartbeat in Savuti unlike anything else I’ve ever experienced. The cherry on the top was meeting the incredible individuals that were on the trip. Francois is an incredible guide, photographer and friend, and Alex too was such a star. As for the crazy twitchers and photographers – what a fabulous group! By far my best trip in Africa; it topped the Serengeti by a good margin!” –  Sarah Drake, RSA

“Along with the spectacular landscapes and the best of Africa’s sunrises and sunsets, the abundance of birds and other mammals made this a truly spectacular and amazing safari – without doubt one my best experiences to date.  The camp was about as wild as it comes, with nightly calls from hyenas, leopards and lions, and in a couple of instances a leopard walked straight past the camp. A honey badger scurried around the back of the tents one evening to our delight. Daily doses of huge elephant bulls at the waterholes, and warthogs and wildebeest kept us amused and provided great photo opportunities.  A perfect photographic safari, and one of the most amazing learning experiences I have had so far.” –  Joe Knapman, UK

“I arrived back from this incredible adventure yesterday, and I am still struggling to process what I experienced.  Firstly, the camp and staff were all superb. How those guys managed to feed us delicious three-course meals cooked on a fire in a cast iron pot is just beyond belief.  Getting a chocolate cake cooked in a pan on the fire was just amazing! Alex, our guide, was the best possible guide. He was so tuned in to Francois’ needs as a photographer. He was fun, knowledgeable and mindful at all times.  A TOP CLASS guide indeed! Francois, I consider my friend now.  I purposely have not gone on any other photographic safaris with other guides because he is a hard act to follow.  There are not enough superlatives to describe his guiding, teaching and photographic skills.” – Karen Van Rensburg, RSA

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USA bans trophy imports of captive South African lions

The United States government has again tightened regulations regarding the importation into the USA of lion trophies, this time focusing on populations of captive lions in South Africa

lions
©Kim Bartlett – Animal People, Inc.

US Fish and Wildlife Service (USFW) director Dan Ash recently published background to this announcement in The Huffington Post. For those who prefer a very brief summary, I have extracted the salient points. For the complete picture please read the entire announcement.

1. Scientifically sound conservation programmes (including the trophy hunting of wild lions) can significantly contribute to the long-term survival of lions. U.S. hunters make up a disproportionately large share of foreign hunters who book trophy hunts in Africa, and their participation in well-managed hunting programmes can help advance the conservation benefits provided by such programmes.

2. Earlier in 2016 USFW introduced a new permitting system to regulate the import of live lions, lion trophies and other parts – the primary aim being as an incentive for lion range countries to work towards sustainable, scientifically-sound management strategies, including hunting.

3. Beginning as of 20 October 2016, the United States has effectively banned the import of lion trophies taken from captive lion populations in South Africa.

4. In order to permit the import into the USA of lion trophies, exporting nations like South Africa must provide clear evidence of a demonstrable conservation benefit to the long-term survival of the species in the wild. In the case of lions taken from captive populations in South Africa, that burden of proof has not been met.

5. If and when such benefits can be clearly shown, UFWS may reevaluate their position.

6. The vast majority of lion trophies imported into the United States in recent years has been from these captive populations in South Africa, so this decision will likely substantially reduce the total number of lion trophy imports.

7. USFW will allow the import of wild or wild-managed lion trophies from South Africa, largely due to effective management by South Africa’s Ministry of Environmental Affairs.

lions
©Janine Avery

Dan Ash concludes as follows: “Let me be clear – we cannot and will not allow trophies into the United States from any nation whose lion conservation programme fails to meet key criteria for transparency, scientific management and effectiveness… But it’s important to understand that lions are not in trouble because of responsible sport hunting.”

The Magic of Zanzibar

East Africa has an irrepressible allure, and I’ve become addicted to its vibrant kangas (patterned fabric), its friendly people and its crystal clear waters. So, to get my next Kiswahili fix, we headed to Unguja Island – more commonly known as Zanzibar – which is just a two-hour ferry ride from the Tanzanian coastal capital of Dar es Salaam, or a direct flight from many African cities.

Thanks to its close proximity and budget airline options, the largest island in the Zanzibar Archipelago is an easily accessible and relatively affordable idyll where South African residents with itchy feet can spend their crashing currency. And with a week’s prescription of sun, sea, sand and Stone Town tucked between the pages of my passport, a holiday in Zanzibar proved to be just what the doctor ordered to take the edge off my East African cravings.


Find out about Zanzibar for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.


 

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The Vision of Freedom jetty was erected in 2015 in Kama and is considered to be one of the best places to watch dolphins in Zanzibar ©Zanzi Resort

Not all who wander are lost

Our first stop was Stone Town – the historical part of Zanzibar City and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which lies 10 minutes from the international airport on a western headland that protrudes into the Indian Ocean.

Stone Town has all the accoutrements of a magician, whereby the distractions of noise and charm mask its subtle changes to amaze and astound the amateur. It is a hypnotist by whose acquaintance you allow yourself to be harmlessly deceived as you wander beguiled under its spell; submitting to its whims at every indiscernible turn.

Its smoke and mirrors are a labyrinth of coralline ragstone and mangrove timber architecture, and its urban fabric tells the tale of the town’s former life as a Swahili trading port. The now crumbling buildings were once moulded under the influence of disparate cultures from Asia to Europe, and its notorious history as East Africa’s primary slave market remains imprisoned in the foundations.

Its bells and whistles are the elaborately hand-carved doors that are hewn along the narrow walkways, the spice shops that pepper the alleyways, the smell of incense that permeates the clothes drying on verandas. A stolen glance into an interior courtyard offers an intimate hint of a different life. Each lane is in an active state of dissolution, disappearing seamlessly around every corner before it has barely come into being. At first, I felt this disorienting, but when I surrendered to the colours and the calls to prayer, I found myself smoothly absorbed into the town’s creases; another laughter line on its wrinkled face.

For me, the smells, sights and sounds were as heart-warmingly familiar as a box of Quality Streets at Christmas, and our first day of aimless exploration summoned countless recollections from previous travels. However, it was the convergence of this diverse range of memories that took me by surprise. How magical it was to be reminded of wandering down a cobbled lane in Italy at one turn, then looking up at a wooden balcony reminiscent of Nepal at the next.

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Handmade frames on display outside a wood carving workshop in Stone Town ©David Capes-Winch
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An elaborately-carved double door that is so synonymous with Zanzibar ©David Capes-Winch
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Selling spices in Darajani Market ©David Capes-Winch

After a few hours of ambling, we found ourselves dodging the tentacles of octopus and salesmen at Darajani Market, which was nothing fancy but all compelling. Following some serious deliberation on whether we should buy coffee beans or vanilla pods, we settled on a bag of saffron. It seemed appropriate and, although neither of us has any idea how to cook with it, the little threads of red conjure the memory of our meandering in a way that a cappuccino never could.

At the end of a day spent enjoying being lost, our tired feet stumbled past House of Wonders – the first building in East Africa to have electricity and an elevator, and then upon Forodhani Night Market, where we gorged on Zanzibar pizzas and nyama choma (barbecued meat) and drank out of coconuts by the sea until it was time to allow our senses to unwind.

As much as we had enjoyed being schedule-free for a brief interlude, we started the next day with a purpose. Full of (Zanzibari coffee) beans, we jumped on a boat with Colors of Zanzibar to visit the old quarantine station and the giant Aldabra tortoise colony on Prison Island. This endangered species was given as a gift from the Seychelles government in the 19th century, and it was astounding to be in the presence of these testudinal relics – one of which was 158 years old!

While snorkelling in the clear waters around the island at the end of our tour, we manoeuvred through harmless jellyfish. We were amazed to be in such a peaceful and pristine environment while so close to the bustle and dilapidation of Stone Town. Our sneak peek of the marine world also gave us a thirst for more water-based activities, and thus, after a late seafood lunch back in town, we set off on an intoxicatingly beautiful dhow sunset cruise with Zama Tours.

As we sailed past the architectural wonders along the shoreline and watched the sun set over fishermen diving into the waters of the Indian Ocean, we ate spicy cassava chips. At the same time, the sky turned pink and counted the stars as another day came to a close in magical Zanzibar.

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A 158-year-old giant tortoise in the sanctuary (left); The beach and pier of Prison Island on a tour with Colors of Zanzibar (right) ©David Capes-Winch
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Photos taken from a dhow sunset cruise with Zama Tours (left and top right); The House of Wonder (bottom right) ©David Capes-Winch

 

Sun of a Beach

My husband and I share one thing in common – a mutual horror for inclement weather. We are partners in a quest for sunshine, and Zanzibar was our light at the end of the tunnel after surviving another winter in Cape Town. So, with little more than a yearning for vitamin D and crayfish, we bid a fond farewell to Stone Town and headed off to explore the beaches for the rest of our break.

Over the next few days, we travelled from the cliffs of Kama along the west coast to Michamwe-Pingwe in the east, before heading down to Menai Bay in the southwest of the island. Our little circuit made it clear that, although only 85 kilometres in length, the diversity of places to lay your beach towel in Zanzibar is immense, and every nook and cranny has something unique to offer.

From rocky shores with private jetties to beautiful stretches of white sand beaches, it’s fascinating how many sides there are to the Spice Island. Even the same area can change dramatically at different times of day, depending on the tide or weather.  There is also a range of activities to spice up your days – from swimming with dolphins or walking in the mangrove forest, to scuba diving or joining a spice village tour with a cooking lesson. As a result, you can relax, safe in the knowledge that your days by the ocean will be sure to make a splash.

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Catch up on some R&R on Paje Beach ©Viva Africa Tours
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If you like cocktails, then head to Fumba Beach Lodge for that island feeling ©David Capes-Winch
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Soak up the delights of Machamwe-Pingwe Beach by staying at Boutique Hotel Matlai ©David Capes-Winch

Where to stay in Stone Town

Check out our preferred camps & lodges for the best prices, browse our famous packages for experience-based safaris and search for our current special offers.

Zanzibar Palace Hotel provides the perfect launchpad for a stay in Stone Town. And the climb to the Dunia Honeymoon Suite on the top floor is particularly worth the lactic acid build-up. Feeling like Rapunzel in her tower, but surrounded by antique Zanzibari furniture, this suite offers a fantastic view over Stone Town, and a further short flight up to the ensuite bathroom provides a loo with a view and loungers to soak it all up from.

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The view over Stone Town from the Dunia Suite (left); Lounging on our bathroom balcony above the rooftops (top right); Zanzibari lighting (bottom right). All photos were taken at Zanzibar Palace Hotel ©David Capes-Winch

For those on a budget, Warere Town House is a great option that lies near the ferry terminal. Basic but clean and comfortable, beautiful fabric designs and other Zanzibari decorative touches make it a welcoming place to lay your head. Its rooftop restaurant – where you can start the day with a breakfast of champions – also offers a great lookout over the town.

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Warere Town House offers a clean, comfy and convenient stay in Stone Town ©Warere Town House

House of Spices doubles up on the goods. Not only is it a centrally located hotel, making it a convenient base from which to explore Stone Town’s alleys, but it is also one of the town’s most reputable restaurants. Something of a local icon, House of Spices provides a fantastic fusion of Italian and Zanzibari cuisine, thanks to its Modena-born owner and local chefs. Spices are woven into the variety of dishes in a delectable manner that will help you to understand how the Spice Island got its name. Book your stay through Adventure Camps Tanzania and don’t miss out on the chilli chocolate mousse for dessert!

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Head to House of Spices – a hotel and rooftop restaurant – for a mouth-watering meal ©House of Spices

 

Where to stay by the beach

Check out our preferred camps & lodges for the best prices, browse our famous packages for experience-based safaris and search for our current special offers.

People often rave about the resorts along the north coast of Zanzibar, which do most certainly offer the R&R that many require. However, if you venture off the beaten beach to some more secluded coves, there is plenty of fantastic accommodation available.

From beach huts and private villas to luxury boutiques and first-class resorts, there is something for everyone in Zanzibar. And it’s well worth taking a break from bronzing to explore the shoreline – both above and below the water.

Zanzi Resort offers privacy and luxury in a tropical setting on the west coast of the island. From the moment you enter the grounds and drink your welcome coconut, you know it’s time to kick back and relax. A luxury villa with a private pool is the way forward here, especially if you’re looking for some one-on-one time with your nearest and dearest.

Everything has been considered to make you feel at home – from television with DVDs, to a mini-library; and the service is impeccable. Once a week for dinner, a communal barbecue and live music is organised, so you can feast on crayfish and steak, while bush babies pop in to see what’s going on before you take to the dancefloor.

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The benefits of an ocean view villa with private pool ©Zanzi Resort

Located along the same stretch as the famous Rock Restaurant, Boutique Hotel Matlai offers an intimate experience along the stunning stretch of Michamwe-Pingwe. With just six bedrooms across two buildings – Asili House and Villa Kidosho – guests are provided with a butler service that makes this a genuinely personable experience. You can expect to wake up in a king-sized four-poster bed to see the sunrise before your eyes and enjoy a romantic dinner on the privacy of your balcony in the evening. Still, the hotel’s most impressive feature is arguably its swimming pool. Fit for a movie set, its dramatic curvatures jut out to the beach and make for the perfect place to dream while resting on a floating beanbag. Except you don’t have to imagine because this could be your reality!

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The view from our balcony of the swimming pool at Boutique Hotel Matlai ©David Capes-Winch
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Wake up to the Indian Ocean in one of the suites in Asili House ©Boutique Hotel Matlai

If you love scuba diving or are interested in joining the Safari Blue tour, Fumba Beach Lodge is an excellent place from which to explore the Menai Bay Conservation Area. A haven for flipper fiends, you can expect your days to be filled with dolphins, islands, sandbanks, and coral reefs, before you return to the lodge to read a good book in your hammock, surrounded by monkeys. An endemic Zanzibar colobus monkey has also recently been spotted here for the first time!

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Round off the day with a Happy Hour cocktail under an ancient baobab tree at Fumba Beach Lodge ©David Capes-Winch

What to know

Zanzibar is a predominantly Islamic island, which makes for a beautifully rich culture. Expect five calls to prayer a day, beef bacon for breakfast, and most women – even girls from a young age – to be wearing a hijab. It’s unlikely that anybody will take offence at any scantily-clad tourists. Still, it’s always nice to be considerate by covering up your wobbly bits and being respectful in how you dress.

It’s no easy feat to get around the island unless you hire a taxi. Some roads aren’t fantastic, and police officers are out to pocket a few pennies so will happily detain anyone on false premises, such as not having a valid driving licence if you hire a car or motorbike. Even though you may escape unscathed from any run-ins, they can still put a dampener on your day and waste a lot of precious tanning time. So if you don’t fancy sweating over petty injustices, it’s worth splashing the cash and jumping in a taxi. Also, consider staying in just one beach spot to save wasting time and dollars on the road.

Zanzibar is still a low-risk malaria area, so consult your travel clinic before you leave and make the decision that feels best for you. If you do decide to forego antimalarials, cover up in the evenings and consider travelling in cooler periods. We visited in late August during the winter season, and an upside to it being a bit nippy was that we didn’t get bitten once!

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Clockwise from top left – Choosing dinner at Forodhani Night Market; Walking along the beach in Stone Town; Exploring the narrow alleys of Stone Town; The view of the buildings along the shoreline ©David Capes-Winch

Visa requirements

As a British citizen living in South Africa, visas are the bane of my present-day existence. But for once, a visa didn’t require the promise of my firstborn and my inside leg measurements. South Africans have the good fortune of being able to waltz into Zanzibar for free on their Green Mamba, but thankfully most Europeans don’t have it too much harder.

It is recommended that visas be obtained at the nearest Tanzanian High Commission before departure, but living in Cape Town makes this no easy feat, so I opted to pay my US$50 and present my yellow fever certificate on arrival, which secured my single-entry visa to paradise before I could say jambo (hello).

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The bustle of the beach in Stone Town ©David Capes-Winch

About the author

mei-namibiaMEI CAPES-WINCH is half-Chinese, born in England, and South African at heart. She received a BA Joint Honours in French and German from the University of Warwick before spending a decade bumbling around Europe, Asia, Australia and Central America, then settling in Cape Town.

Tired of pretending to be a grown-up, she takes every opportunity she can to explore her new home continent, accompanied by her canine best friend and her husband, who lovingly goes to great lengths to stop her whinging about being bored.

4 must-visit Nairobi museums

Nairobi is Kenya’s principal economic, administrative and cultural centre, with a vibrant culture, fabulous restaurants and exciting nightlife. But the rich cultural heritage, as displayed in these three Nairobi museums, is also another fascinating aspect of the city.


So if you are on a visit to Kenya’s capital city and looking to venture out of your hotel for a few hours or so, here’s a list of four amazing Nairobi museums within the city CBD that will definitely be worth your while.

These museums provide evidence of the city’s historical significance and also the cultural richness of Kenya and Nairobi in particular.

The Nairobi National Museum

The Nairobi National Museum is situated on Museum Hill road, five to ten minutes away from the CBD and accessible both by public and private means. It is the perfect one-stop for visitors, presenting them with Kenya’s rich history, nature, culture and contemporary art.

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©Nairobi National Museum

The museum houses an extensive ornithological collection representing most of Kenya’s thousand-odd species of birds. The Geology Gallery contains a great deal of interesting information on plate tectonics and the life cycle of volcanoes, which is particularly relevant to the Rift Valley regions. The Gallery of Contemporary East African Art is an exhibition area where artists from East Africa display their artwork. The Prehistoric Gallery houses the palaeontology exhibits, highlighting the East African region as the cradle of mankind.

Also within the grounds are the famous snake park, botanical gardens and nature trail. Not forgetting an excellent cafe that serves some of the best coffee in Nairobi and hosts occasional performances too.

The Nairobi Railway Museum

Nairobi, and to an extent the nation of Kenya, owe their very existence to the Uganda Railway. The outcome of the railway is aptly described by Sir Charles Elliot, a senior British official at the time, with the words, “It is not uncommon for a country to create a railway, but it is uncommon for a railway to create a country.”

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© Nairobi Railway Museum

The construction of the railway linking the East African coast to Uganda at the beginning of the 20th Century is a story of grand vision, tragedy, and triumph over enormous odds in the quest to effectively administer the British Protectorate of Uganda and control the source of the River Nile. The railway achieved notoriety in the 1900s when ‘the man-eaters of Tsavo’, a pair of rogue man-eating lions, preyed gruesomely on numerous railway construction workers at a section of what is now the Tsavo National Park. The railway took five and a half years from 1886 to 1901 to be completed. The construction took a heavy human toll, a total of 2,493 lives, 38 per month, or five people for every 2km were lost.

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©Nairobi Railway Museum

The Nairobi Railway Museum has a collection of photographs from the above period, including historical pictures of Nairobi from its infancy, and images of other occurrences and milestones during the railway construction. Numerous artefacts from the early years of the railway operation are also on display. The museum also has a yard with exhibits of the different steam engine locomotives used on the railway system from 1898 when the first train set off on its maiden voyage from Mombasa. One of these, the 59 or ‘Mountain’ class locomotive weighs 254 tons and is reputed to have been the most powerful metre-gauge locomotive ever built, capable of moving 1,200-ton trains in one trip. Another one is the carriage in which Charles Ryall was sleeping in 1900 when a lion seized him through the window, broke his neck and dragged him to his death. Other exhibits include a sample water crane similar to those used at various water stops and stations along the railway line.

Situated off the Uhuru highway close to the CBD, the Nairobi Railway Museum is an informative and engaging destination that should not be missed.

The Kenya National Archives

A repository of some of Kenya’s most significant cultural, political, social, and academic history, The Kenya National Archives is situated on Moi Avenue in the Central Business District, a stone’s throw away from the Nairobi Hilton Hotel.

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© Oliech on the go

One of the major attractions in the archives is the arts and crafts collection of the Late Joseph Murumbi, a former vice-president of Kenya. The collection consists of an array of traditional tools and artefacts from different parts of the African continent. The collection includes drums, weaponry, cowbells, traditional attire, tapestry, furniture and cooking implements among others. Notable in the collection is a variety of traditional African sculptures whose aesthetic became a powerful influence and inspiration to the world’s most celebrated artists such as Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse and Amedeo Modigliani.

The Kenya National Archives leads in the preservation of Kenya’s heritage and history. You also get to see the rich diversity of cultures in Kenya, with its 42 ethnic groups’ history, traditional artefacts and utilities on display. Records, reports, and diaries of the Church Missionary Society (CMS) dating back to the 17th century are among millions of rare and unique publications under the custody of the Kenya National Archives.

Every October, the Kenya National Archives holds a Heritage Week, during which members of the public are allowed access for free – a push towards helping more people discover its records and books, among other cultural documents. Use that as a reason to visit these three Nairobi museums.

The Karen Blixen Museum

Set in the serene suburb of Nairobi, the Karen Blixen Museum provides the most comprehensive insight into this remarkable woman who was made famous by the movie ‘Out of Africa’ about her life in Kenya.

The Museum is located in a tranquil garden and indigenous forest, with a splendid view of Karen’s beloved Ngong Hills. The well-maintained gardens offer a wonderful setting for weddings and corporate events. A museum shop offers many souvenirs, including handicrafts, posters and postcards, the Movie ‘Out of Africa’, books and other mementoes.


Find out about Kenya for your next African safari – find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.


 

Behind the scenes of an elephant relocation

I kneel in the dust beside the fallen elephant as if seeking absolution in a cathedral… the cathedral in this case is a forlorn and brittle circle of desiccated mopane bush in the Limpopo Valley. The capture team descend on the sleeping giant and begin their ministrations with quiet precision, while chainsaws carve a track for the flatbed truck. Written by: Andrew Rae

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©Skyhawk Photography

This prone elephant bull stirs my recollection of another time in another park when these magnificent, sentient creatures were killed to control their impact on the landscape. I remember the smell of cordite and blood mingling in the warm Lowveld air as carcasses were loaded and a chopper arced overhead with a clatter of blades like some glistening angel of death.

This time will be very different as the bull I kneel beside forms part of a small herd of seven elephant set aside for relocation to Mapesu – a private nature reserve established by The Shared Universe Foundation to protect and expand the rangeland of these mighty denizens of the African wilderness.

It is a monumental undertaking, requiring an army of well-trained personnel and specialised vehicles and equipment. Trucks and capture containment are first positioned close to where the elephants are ahead of the capture. This takes hours of ponderous manoeuvring before things are finally set and ready. The chopper chases and corrals the herd as a wildlife vet fires darts dosed with a powerful opiate known as M99. The animals mill around the first of the fallen, the matriarch, and are easily dispatched close by. The young adult bull succumbs a few hundred metres further away. Bush is carved open and flatbed lorries with huge hydraulic cranes attached are moved into position alongside the slumbering pachyderms.

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©Skyhawk Photography

A radio and GPS tracking collar is attached to the lead cow, while I hold my hand near the opening to her trunk monitoring her deep and laborious breathing. Like titanic, wrinkle-covered bellows, her flanks rise and fall in a rhythm as old as the dust coating her, and tears blur my vision as a deep melancholy overwhelms me… she exhales and her tepid breath stirs the hair on my forearm. It is a moment with an ancient creature of the veld that I will never forget.

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©Skyhawk Photography
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©Skyhawk Photography

It is truly momentous releasing wildlife back into areas they once occupied historically. It is the act of completing something monumental, something grand. It is finishing a complex tapestry that for more than a century has been but an anaemic, unfinished version of the original. It is placing that which has been missing back where it belongs.

The long container truck came lumbering over the ridge – a clanking, dust-shrouded juggernaut. A crowd of us gather on the fence-line behind a shade cloth barrier while photographers clamber on top of the truck to capture images of the occasion. The sun begins a fiery descent into the heat haze along the western horizon and shadows lengthen and the light softens into that pre-dusk glow that so many before me have tried to describe. The scene is set, the elephants are finally here.

©Skyhawk Photography

Steel barriers slide open and we all hold our breath. Nothing stirs on the tepid Limpopo breeze except for the distant, languid call of a hornbill. The container stands open like some dark, cavernous maw, and then it happens – a three to four-year-old male elephant calf saunters out into the open and down the concrete ramp – ears flared and trunk aloft, testing the air. This followed by an adult cow and her female calf, and then the collared matriarch with her new female calf and another sub-adult cow and finally the young adult bull. They gather together, tenuous, guarded, unsure of how to proceed.

I watch as camera shutters fire staccato bursts and a video drone buzzes overhead. I watch them, these new arrivals back in this valley after more than a century of absence and I feel inexplicably alive. I rejoice. I revel in this sensation of completion, of hope for a species that still defies our understanding; this giant so intelligent, so incredibly representative of this wondrous continent. I think of our entwined history together… humankind and elephants, and how full of conflict and carnage it has been. I ponder how elephants must perceive us as we expand our population and consume like ravenous insects – insatiable, uncaring, deadly.

I also perceive hope. Having been privy to the culling in the nineties and now the infinite hunger for ivory in Asia that is decimating the great lumbering herds of East and West Africa and reducing the continent’s population by more than 100,000 in less than a decade.

I have hope because I stood today peering through a steel hatch and I saw an elephant arise. An animal that was prone and lifeless rose up; vital, majestic and beautiful, and I was awestruck.

©Skyhawk Photography

Something is different now on Mapesu Private Nature Reserve. There are large circular tracks in the dust, each of them etched with a labyrinth of delicate wrinkles. Mopane trees are scarred and splintered in certain places and reddish-brown balls of dung lie scattered on lonely game paths everywhere.

There are elephants here once again.

Gallery: Capturing Namibia

Home to fascinating tribal cultures, desert-adapted wildlife and breathtaking vistas, Namibia is a unique Southern African country that appeals to visitors for its promise of relatively untouched beauty.
In September 2016, AG director Christian Boix and a group of our safari clients visited the country’s most popular tourist destinations on a photographic trip that aroused the wildest of senses. Enjoy this gallery of some of the photographic highlights from their whirlwind adventure to Namibia.
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? An iconic image of Deadvlei ©Adriano Gannam

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? Burchell’s zebras in Etosha National Park ©Adriano Gannam

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? Dune textures in Sossusvlei ©Adriano Gannam

? A Herero woman in Damaraland ©Adriano Gannam

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? Ground squirrels in Solitaire ©Christian Boix


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? A quiver tree in the Namib Desert ©Adriano Gannam

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? An abandoned vintage vehicle in Solitaire ©Christian Boix

? A nightscape of a moringa tree in Sossusvlei ©Christian Boix

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? A web-footed gecko (Palmatogecko rangei) in Dorob National Park ©Christian Boix

? A Himba child in Kaokoland ©Adriano Gannam

? The Naukluft Mountains ©Christian Boix

Resources

More information and stories about Namibia

The Himba – a people in transition

For camps & lodges at the best prices and our famous ready-made safari packages, log into our app. If you do not yet have our app see the instructions below this story.

Classic Namibia

Namibia is a land of stark contrasts, and a typical visitor can expect to be left in awe by its magnificent polarities – from an abundance of wildlife around waterholes in Etosha to withered tree stumps between the dunes in Deadvlei.

The country is perhaps best known for its vast landscapes, blue skies, sand dunes and endless white gravel roads. Protecting some of Africa’s most untouched wildernesses, it is also an excellent destination for photographers and wildlife lovers. All creatures great and small make an appearance in Namibia’s sandy nooks and crannies – from chameleons by the roadside and meerkats on the gravel plains, to black-maned lions and desert-adapted rhinos or elephants roaming massive expanses of semi-arid terrain.

And on a two-week trip AG director Christian Boix and six guests from Brazil and Canada crisscrossed this land in search of some of its most iconic photographic highlights. Armed with tripods, lenses, filters, hats, and oodles of suntan lotion, they ventured forth into its wildernesses with a thirst for quirky light, moonless nights, impressive vistas, beautiful people, great wildlife sightings and cold Windhoek lager.

This gallery showcases some of the highlights of their journey to most of the hotspots in this country that offers a little something for everyone.

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? The iconic dunes of Sossusvlei ©Christian Boix

Nestled in the largest tract of conservation land in Africa – an impressive enough reason to visit the Namib-Naukluft National Park – lies one of the continent’s true geological gems. Sossusvlei is home to some of the most spectacular natural sand dunes in the world and is undoubtedly one of the most photographed desert landscapes in Africa. A single picture of Sossusvlei’s stark natural beauty – silhouetted camelthorn trees against a glowing morning backdrop of a towering, curvaceous red dune – can capture the essence of Namibia and what it has to offer. Nowhere else in Africa does a desert landscape convey such raw, aesthetic beauty than in Sossusvlei.

For a fantastic view of this magnificent landscape, a climb up Big Daddy or Dune 45 is well worth the hot, sweaty slog. But for an even higher viewpoint, you might want to consider a sunrise hot air balloon safari!

Finding a quiet spot to yourself in this massive landscape is not too hard, despite the hundreds of tourists that visit it daily. Sitting on a dune silently will soon reveal a gamut of critters, which eke out an existence in this seemingly dead land. The sound of a desert breeze, or the gentle crinkle of sand on the move, is often dimmed by the sound of your blood rushing through your eardrums. Vivid colours, wrinkled rocks, polished logs, and at times the sweet scent of acacia blooms, encapsulate the true essence of this magical spot.

Also worth experiencing in the area is the Sesriem Canyon – the gateway to Sossuvlei. Formed over many millennia by the Tsauchab River, the canyon is about a kilometre long and 30 metres deep in places. It is home to some of the most captivating rock formations in Namibia and is also one of the only places in the region that holds water non-perennially.

While a trip to Sossusvlei is essential on your Namibian itinerary, it can be challenging to access without a 4×4 vehicle. Access to both Sossus and Deadvlei can only be attempted by 4×4 travellers, while 2×4 travellers should park their cars and take the shuttle that covers the last five kilometres of deep sandy tracks. In fact, why not walk the final stretch and take in the spectacular scenery, sounds and smells no matter what vehicle you have?

? Making friends while sea kayaking in Walvis Bay ©Christian Boix

About 30km south of Swakopmund lies a busy harbour town on the edge of a wide lagoon that serves as the perfect hibernation area for thousands of shorebirds and migratory bird species. It offers a fantastic source of food for innumerable pelicans, flamingos, and terns – more specifically the diminutive and endemic Damara terns – while the booming fishing, cargo and sea salt industry provides many of the town’s residents with their daily bread.

Walvis Bay has always offered a gamut of exciting activities centred around its lagoon, dunes and the nearby Sandwich Harbour. A plethora of food and accommodation options have sprouted as a result. You can even expect to find a desert golf course, catamaran trips, dolphin cruises and historian quad bike rides of the dunes at your fingertips.

A climb up Dune 7 on the outskirts of town will reward you with splendid views of the lagoon, but if you want to get acquainted with those that live in its waters, then dolphins, whales and Cape fur seals can be found splashing around the black-and-white Pelican Point Lighthouse. The best way to make friends with the colony of seals is by a spot of sea kayaking, which will give you the chance to get up close and personal with these thick-pelted divers.

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? The sun sets over the pier in Swakopmund ©Christian Boix

Sandwiched between the Atlantic Ocean and the Namib Desert lies a coastal oasis that feels like a surreal remnant of a bygone colonial era. Distinctly German in flavour – thanks to its residents, visitors, architecture and cuisine – it’s the perfect place to enjoy a sunny, if somewhat cool and windblown, stroll down a seaside promenade before tucking into stewed venison spätzle.

As Namibia’s most popular holiday destination, it’s not only our Baltic friends who are attracted to Swakopmund, but it’s also the place-to-be for adrenalin junkies. From skydiving and surfing to living desert tours and camel rides, the range of activities on offer is responsible for the town’s reputation of being the adventure capital of Namibia. There’ll never be a dull moment here, whether you wish to wander along the iconic pier or throw yourself out of an aeroplane over the dunes.

? A photographer’s dream at Spitzkoppe ©Christian Boix

Spitzkoppe, an awesome granitic inselberg, rises out of the Namib’s barren landscape. It has become an iconic landmark of Damaraland and is recognised by many granite-climbing junkies all over the world as the “Matterhorn of Africa”.

Most who journey here are content to stand in awe at the 100-million-year-old formations – around which are several San bushman rock art sites to explore – but, for the more intrepid travellers, the peaks are begging to be climbed. A Spitzkoppe ascent is not to be made without adequate climbing gear or experience and, at 700 metres above ground level, it is not for the faint of heart either.

Part of the Erongo Mountain range, Spitzkoppe is a remnant volcanic plug that now stands as one of the most celebrated mountains in Namibia. There are several other features of the range in the Damaraland region that are well worth adding to your itinerary. The Brandberg or ‘fire mountain’ gets its name from the burning-red hue glowing on its face at sunset – a spectacular time of day in this region. The Petrified Forest is a mystical forest of 200 million-year-old fossilised trees that were uprooted during a flood and have since been revealed by erosion as a striking spectacle of the landscape. God’s Finger, Organ Pipes, Burnt Mountain, and a never-ending list of other incredibly beautiful sights and formations, await around every turn of the road.

No matter what type of traveller you are or what you’re looking for in your Namibia experience, you’re bound to consider Spitzkoppe to be one of the most striking landscapes on your trip.

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? A Herero woman in traditional dress in Damaraland ©Adriano Gannam

The Herero are a fascinating tribal group, known mostly for their antiquated clothing, which was introduced by Christian German settlers who sought to convert the tribe and clothe them in the European fashion of the times. This has since become a distinguishing mark of their identity despite the war that these same colonisers waged on them at the turn of the 20th century, which led to the death of about three-quarters of the tribe. By 1905 it is estimated that only 16,000 Herero remained, but today there are about 100,000 living mainly in the central and eastern parts of Namibia.

It is argued that the Herero’s choice to continue wearing their formal attire is a symbol of defiance and survival. The Herero women tend to wear traditional floor-length dresses from their wedding day onwards, and the men dress up at ceremonies in the uniforms of their European oppressors. This is said to be a way of honouring their ancestors who would wear the uniforms of German soldiers that they killed during their genocide. The Herero are proud cattle farmers who, before colonial times, prospered in the central grassland areas where there was ample grazing opportunity. They continue to measure their wealth in cattle – the importance of which is also reflected in the women’s headwear and dances. Their hats are designed to resemble cow horns, which get smaller as they get older as a symbol of their decreasing fertility. And during celebrations they perform the cow dance, which involves stamping feet, kicking up dust, and imitating the upraised horns and swaying movements of cattle.
If you’re in Namibia at the end of August, then it’s worth trying to head to the Herero festival, which is held in Okahandja on Maherero Day.

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? Dancing kudu rock art at Twyfelfontein ©Christian Boix

The oldest example of bushman art in Namibia is thought to date back 28,000 years. And in Twyfelfontein or /Ui-//aes you will find one of the largest concentrations of rock engravings on the continent. Most of these preserved petroglyphs feature rhinos, but elephants, ostriches and giraffes are also well represented, as well as drawings of humans and animal footprints.

Some of these engravings and red ochre paintings date back to the Stone Age, and the site at Twyfelfontein provides an extensive record of rituals and economic practices of San hunter-gatherer communities in this part of Southern Africa before Damara herders and European colonialists moved in.

Separating it from the rest of the country’s rock art sights, Twyfelfontein truly feels like one of the world’s most ancient universities. The stories, engravings and meticulous detail represented in the sandstone are testimony to a very elaborate and active teaching process. Waterhole maps depicting game trails, footprints of different animals, and drawings of coastal creatures, are all evidence of what must have been an incredibly lively and enthusiastic lecture – The Science of Tracking!

Apart from one small engraved panel, which was relocated to the National Museum in Windhoek at the start of the 20th century, none of the rock art has been removed or tampered with.

? A Himba dance in Kaokoland ©Christian Boix

One of the most isolated and sparsely populated regions in all of Southern Africa, Kaokoland, can be fittingly described as one of Southern Africa’s true Edens and last remaining wildernesses. This arid landscape may come across as a harsh environment for living things, but it is, in fact, a refuge for two of the most famous and best-adapted desert icons in Africa – the desert elephant and the Himba people.

Descendants of the ancient Herero people, the Himba are a celebrated indigenous people with a population of about 5,000 – numbering one person to every two square kilometres in population density. They are renowned for the startling intricacy of their garments, as well as their traditional hairstyles. A characteristic feature of the Himba of this region is the red complexion of their skin, obtained by applying ochre as natural suntan lotion.

A semi-nomadic people, they are both proud and generous in offering visitors a glimpse into their traditional way of life, and a visit to a Himba village can be an insightful experience if undertaken with the due respect. It is crucial on any cultural tour in Africa to be sensitive of your tourist footprint; to always ask for permission when taking images, to pay your dues to the local chieftain and photographic subjects, and to be ever mindful of your conduct.

If you are lucky, you may also see the rare desert elephants while you’re in Kaokoland. Their true majesty reigns in an environment where they have mastered the principle of adaptation and sustainable resource use.

In true Namibia style, Kaokoland offers a landscape of magnificent, rugged contrasts. And as it’s not far from both Etosha and the Skeleton Coast national parks, it’s worth making this northern detour.

namibia

? White elephants fight in Etosha National Park ©Adriano Gannam

The gateway park to the north of Namibia and the Ovamboaland region, Etosha National Park holds its rightful place as one of the finest wildlife sanctuaries in the world. It is home to the Etosha pan, a salt pan which covers roughly a quarter of the park’s area and can be seen from space.

Far more than just a barren Namibian landscape, the ecosystem here is teeming with life. When the perennial rains grace the land, the pan becomes home to a population of roughly a million flamingos. And where water springs from the cracks of the earth around the edges of the pan, wildlife abounds in a diverse and thriving ecosystem.

The waterholes at the convergence of the pan and the bush are the main game viewing attraction, and with just a hint of patience, you can be rewarded with spectacular sightings of plentiful game. White elephants are one of the park’s main icons, but large prides of lions, stately giraffes and vast herds of springboks, Burchell’s zebras, oryx and wildebeests are ubiquitous too.

Any itinerary to Namibia would be incomplete without a few days at this ambassadorial national park, where natural history, wildlife and San culture all have a home.

? San bushmen hunting in //nhoq’ma ©Ana Zinger

The village of //nhoq’ma (Nhoma) lies about 40km from Tsumkwe in the north-east of Namibia, close to the border to Botswana. It is the ancestral home of a small population of Ju/’hoan San.

Various rock art sites prove that the San were the indigenous hunter-gatherers of Southern Africa, but now only approximately 55,000 members of this tribe remain in total – 20,000 of whom live in marginal settlements across Namibia.

Traditionally the San were nomadic, following food and water sources rather than farming or keeping livestock, and the women gathered edible plants, while the men hunted. There is evidence that until quite recently, many of their cultural practices were still being followed, but nowadays their traditional hunter-gatherer lifestyle is often not feasible.

The community of Nhoma consists of about 50 adults and 100 children, who make their income from tourism. Time spent at Nhoma with this San community is a most rewarding back-to-basics experience. Mornings in the bush are spent tracking, and perhaps even hunting for the pot. The art of tracking, stalking and using the different hunting paraphernalia is eagerly demonstrated during this excursion. Lighting a fire with sticks, making rope from plant fibres and setting up traps make for a fascinating start to the day. Fruit, root, bark and tuber gathering is on the agenda for the ladies, and it is mesmerising to watch how much knowledge has been passed from one generation to the next. Soon you start to understand how hard survival in this environment is, even though the San’s resourcefulness makes it look so easy.

Social and jovial, there is no opportunity missed to engage in song, dance, play or games, and back at camp you can be guaranteed to witness many dances and rituals, and before you know it be drawn to partake in the laughter, encouragement and praise of these humble people of the sands.

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? A nightscape in Tsumkwe ©Christian Boix

Tsumkwe is a town in the semi-arid region of Otjozondjupa, which is nearby the San village of //nhoq’ma. So if you have been visiting the bushmen, this is a lovely place from which to admire the night sky before crossing over to Botswana. The area is sparsely populated, and the nearest town that has more than 50,000 inhabitants takes about 10 hours to reach by local transport.

The land around Tsumkwe is not cultivated, which means that most of the natural vegetation is still intact, and the soil in the area is high in arenosols, which give the ground a sandy texture that makes it comfortable for camping. September tends to be the month with the most sunshine, but the most fun arguably comes when the sun goes down and when, thanks to there being no light pollution, it is magnificent to watch the Milky Way come to life in the clear night sky.

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? Africa Geographic’s Travel Director, Christian Boix, in action ©Oz Pfenninger

Christian left his birth country of Spain – its great food, siestas and fiestas – to become an ornithologist at the University of Cape Town and to start Tropical Birding, a company specialising in bird-watching tours worldwide.

For 11 years following his arrival in Africa, he travelled to over 60 countries in search of over 5,000 bird species. Time passed, his children became convinced that he was some kind of pilot and his wife acquired a budgie for company. And that’s when the penny dropped that he needed to stay put a wee bit more.

In 2012 he took the reigns at Africa Geographic Travel as its Director and infused his energy and passion for all things African into the role. Contagiously enthusiastic, he is always eager to report back on his exciting travels across the continent, and never tires of sharing the joy of birding and exploration through his photography and guiding.

Click here for more information and stories about Namibia

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Letter: flaws in plan to sell rhino horn

Demand reduction needs to be driven by enforcing the laws promulgated in horn-consuming countries. The arguments vented by commentators to promote the concept of a central selling organisation (CSO) as the anchor component of the legalisation of the trade in rhino horn debate are seriously flawed. Written by James Campbell for Business Day

The success of a CSO, as once practised by de Beers for the sale of diamonds, had as a fundamental tenet, the focus on price stability throughout all aspects of the industry: the producer, the trader, the polisher and the consumer.

rhino
©REUTERS

This was achieved via a supply-control mechanism at the De Beers wholesale level coupled with the ability of its customers to buy and move diamonds to the international market. In poor market conditions, such as high interest rates, de Beers put into stock millions of US dollars worth of diamonds to avoid a slump in prices and for these stones to be released to the market under better economic conditions.

Another key component of such a strategy was the massive annual investment in marketing campaigns to promote diamonds to the world consumer using its well know marketing slogan, “A diamond is forever”.

There is no similarity between the diamond CSO and a CSO as a driver in the legalising of rhino horn trade. A CSO focused on maintaining the price for horn at a level greater than the transport costs of moving illegal horn from the killing fields of SA to the markets of China and Vietnam, argued by pro-trade parties as needed to provide funding for rhino security in the wild, will continue to provide the financial motivation for the syndicates to increase poaching.

It has also to be remembered that the CSO in the diamond industry did not arrest the trade in stolen diamonds, illegally mined diamonds or blood diamonds. The Kimberley Process was developed much later as an attempt to curtail aspects of these activities..

Legalisation of horn will provide low-cost marketing credibility to the much published medicinal myths of rhino horn in these consuming countries with a resultant increase in demand.

There is a very low percentage, estimated by some commentators at 0.15% of the Chinese and Vietnamese population, who are users of this form of keratin. Even an increase in demand to supply 1% of the population triggered by the legalisation of trade will set the platform for an increase in poaching based on the most easily understood logic — the syndicates have structures now to obtain the product basically for free or close to it. Why would they abandon such structures to buy legalised horn at five to 10 times the cost of procuring poached horn?

While there is some rhino horn in stock to meet an increase in demand in the immediate short term, it is totally unsustainable beyond the very short term and will only benefit a few people like me.

Demand reduction needs to be driven by enforcing the laws promulgated in horn-consuming countries. Host countries need to be supported by international government and non-government agencies to frustrate the poaching scourge throughout the supply chain. There must be full implementation of harsh legislation similar to illegal diamond buying legislation.

Otherwise, Africa will have to reflect in a few years’ time on the aftermath of the colonisation of its wildlife heritage by Eastern forces and the major damage to an increasing and highly sustainable wildlife tourist industry not available on other continents.

The six most memorable white water rafting rapids on the Zambezi

Imagine the most thrilling rollercoaster ride you have ever been on – with its sharp turns, steep drops, unexpected twists and ability to temporarily rearrange your organs. Well, white water rafting is Mother Nature’s gift to thrill-seekers at the Batoka Gorge Rapids, which lie not far downstream from Victoria Falls on the Zambezi River. Written by: Jessica White

white-water-rafting

Just taking one trip between the walls of this cavernous gorge, down a river with a mind of its own, leaves white water rafting fans feeling euphoric and hungry for more. If you are having trouble deciphering whether you are being churned through “The Washing Machine” or tripping up “The Stairway to Heaven”, here’s all you need to know about the six rapids that are sure to still be running through your mind long after they have spat you out.

1. The Stairway to Heaven

As one of the biggest rapids in the world, the fifth rapid is fondly referred to as the Stairway to Hell by those who have been on her bad side. Beware not to be lulled into a false sense of serenity, as the drop into the frothing water is so steep that, only at the moment when your raft is balanced precariously on the edge, do you realise what a steep plummet you are in for. One minute you will be staring at a smooth horizon, the next your heart is in your throat and your paddle is frantically snatching at the water as you attempt to launch yourselves to the other side. Fortunately, at the base is a massive standing wave, named the Catcher Mitt, ready to hurl you out and on to the next one.

Grade 5 – Large and irregular waves, long and violent rapids with many obstructions in the forms of stoppers or rocks. May have big drops or steep gradients.

2. Gulliver’s Travels

True to its name, this rapid is bound to take you on the journey of a lifetime. Much like Gulliver’s Travels, this rapid is long and complex, and requires careful navigation of features such as Indicator Rock, which helpfully alerts you to turn right in order to avoid being flipped into the tsunami-sized waves known as Land of the Giants.

Grade 5 – Large and irregular waves, long and violent rapids with many obstructions in the forms of stoppers or rocks. May have big drops or steep gradients.

white-water-rafting-zambezi
3. Commercial Suicide

This is the only grade six rapid that you will encounter, and it is the unrunnable rapid. However, it is still an incredible spectacle, as it is impossible to tell which direction the enormous and furious waves are crashing from. Whether it was with rage or love, Mother Nature poured a lot of powerful emotion into the creation of this awe-inspiring rapid.

Grade 6 – Commercially unrunnable in a raft. We carry our rafts around these rapids.

4. The Washing Machine

An ominous black rock lurks in the middle of this rapid, causing the water to churn into a frenzy of agitated waves, which resemble the inside of a washing machine that’s gone into overdrive. This rapid will snatch you up, spin you around and squirt you out, cleaner than you have ever been.

Grade 5 – Large and irregular waves, long and violent rapids with many obstructions in the forms of stoppers or rocks. May have big drops or steep gradients.

5. The Terminator

This rapid is a genuine traffic-stopper. A solid wall of water builds up and crashes back on itself, bringing rafts to an abrupt halt before tossing them over, scattering paddles and rafters across the Zambezi.

Grade 4 – Many irregular-sized waves and obstacles including rocks and strong eddies

6. Oblivion

This is the most photographic rapid on the river and it has caused more rafts to somersault than any other on the planet. This rapid comprises of three waves, and the star of the show stands at an impressive four to five metres. If you don’t capsize, then it is possible to surf the wave for up to 45 seconds. Rafters who do abruptly disembark are quickly flushed to safety.

Grade 5 – Large and irregular waves, long and violent rapids with many obstructions in the forms of stoppers or rocks. May have big drops or steep gradients.

These are only six of the rapids to be found on the Zambezi, and it’s up to you to come and discover the rest. Do yourself a favour and come white water rafting in Victoria Falls. Just one trip and you will be hooked. Warning: Rafting is highly addictive.

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Hiking across Africa’s largest canyon

Written by: Kabo Letlhogela

Our 85-kilometre hike across the Fish River Canyon, Africa’s largest canyon, began with a torturous two-kilometre descent from the main viewpoint near Hobas. Most people consider this to be the most strenuous section of the trail, and three hours later our group had only reached the lowest point and still had a while to go before reaching the sandy riverbed.

Kabo Letlhogela standing at starting point

Due to the tiring descent, we only covered a further 1.8km before setting up camp near First Rest Pools, where we bathed and swam in the water of the Fish River and used it to cook our evening meal.

fish-river-canyon-hike fish-river-canyon-river

The following day, we proceeded across thick desert sand, passing gigantic boulders, magical mountain ridges and bushes. Just before lunch, we stopped at the Wild Fig bend where you can find a Vespa scooter from a 1968 expedition that didn’t quite go according to plan. Nearby, an old carcass of a zebra greeted us. We then camped at Palm Springs and enjoyed a hot bath in the thermal sulphur pools. Across the pools, Namibia’s famous wild horses emerged.

hike-fish-river-canyon hiking-fish-river-canyon

On day three, we covered our greatest distance of 31 kilometres. Towering above us were prominent attractions such as Monument Mountain and Table Mountain, which resembles the Table Mountain in Cape Town. At Baboon Mountain Pools, the boys went for a swim to cool down, while the ladies proceeded for an extra kilometre to set-up camp at Bushy Corner.

fish-river-canyon-black-and-white

On the fourth day, the Fish River split into three directions and our group disbanded, some of us getting lost before regrouping. Back on the trail we saw a pair of old rusty hiking boots left by a fellow hiker and, a few metres away, a colony of nearly 40 baboons marched in the opposite direction.

fish-river-canyon-hikers

The hike was starting to take its toll as many members of our group were suffering from various injuries. As we passed the German soldier’s grave and the Four Finger Rock, the unrelenting heat forced us to take a longer break than usual before continuing to our last campsite for the hike – Fool’s Gold Corner.

The prospect of clean water and a cold beer were the motivating forces for us to hike the remaining kilometres on our final day. We passed through the Fish Eagle Pools and a rock inscribed with the words ‘COLD BEER’ and pointing to the resort was our final sign of hope that the end was in sight. After five days of hiking in the heat, we arrived at the resort and had accomplished our goal of conquering Africa’s largest canyon during heritage month!

We bet you didn’t know these weird wildlife collective nouns

The collective nouns for lions and other animals
©Simon Espley

How often have you heard someone say “so what do you call a group of giraffe?” or mongooses or whatever? Well, we did some research and came up with the following wildlife collective nouns, some of which had us giggling 🙂

A clan of hyena

A leap of leopards

A dazzle of zebra

A memory of elephant

A prickle of porcupine

An armoury of aardvarks

A pod or raft of hippos

A crash of rhino

A parliament of owls

A confusion of guinea fowl

A convocation of eagles

A whoop of gorillas

A business of mongoose

An obstinacy of buffalo

An implausibility of wildebeest

A wake of vultures

A fling of oxpeckers

A gaggle of geese

A hedge of herons

A pod of pelicans

A tower of giraffe (when the giraffe are standing still)

A journey of giraffe (for moving animals)

A pride of lion

A coalition of cheetah

A bask of crocodiles

A flamboyance of flamingoes

An elephant family finds a new home

Written by: Jay Roode

The Great Elephant Census of 2016 has just published its findings and they are shocking. African elephant populations are down 30% in the past seven years and individual numbers stand at only 350,000 across 18 African countries. One elephant is being poached every 15 minutes for its ivory – that’s 40,000 a year.

In an era during which the wilderness is shrinking, conservation areas are becoming ring-fenced and human populations are expanding; the space for wild things is dwindling. We stand at the edge of a world where the magnificent creatures that have travelled with us through the ages, and form part of humanity’s fabric, are reduced to theme park amusements in zoos and synthetic wilderness parks.

elephant-relocation

We too readily forget that the wilderness is not a luxury but a necessity for the human spirit. This is an era that demands urgent conservation philanthropy, particularly from the private sector, with regards to creating or expanding habitat for wild creatures and protecting them for future generations.

This concept became avidly clear when I recently accompanied the Shared Universe Foundation on the relocation of a family group of eight elephants into the newly expanded conservancy of Mapesu. The reserve was historically used for cattle farming and hunting and hasn’t seen resident elephants for over 100 years. But all that is about to change.

elephants-limpopo

The Limpopo valley is a vast wilderness area; a quiet primitive place that is home to some of South Africa’s most noteworthy Khoi San rock art and of course to the ancient kingdom of Mapungubwe – a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This valley has enormous potential as a vast transfrontier conservation area, which is a vision actively promoted by Shared Universe.

Poaching has reached unmanageable proportions in certain parts of the valley, and this elephant family was in desperate need of a new home.

I was completely unprepared for the scale of the operation and the dedication of the people involved. It was a massive undertaking involving vets, helicopters, large cranes, specially modified transport containers and a brave and dedicated ground crew.

helicopter

The operation got off the ground before dawn but it was only at around midday that the elephants were located and nudged towards our position by the patient buzzing of an experienced helicopter pilot.

The heat seemed to flow upwards and the entire landscape shimmered under a relentless assault. Even the giant baobabs seemed to melt like silvery grey wax; their voodoo limbs reaching to the heavens in a desperate plea to end the inferno.

We were all concerned that the elephants may succumb to these extreme conditions, so the operation had to happen quickly and seamlessly to ensure there were no fatalities. The highly experienced crew managed to dart and load these slumbering giants into the specially modified transport containers within a couple of hours.

elephant-relocated-limpopo

The cavalcade of trucks, surrounded in billows of red dust, ponderously made its way along rough dirt tracks on their long drive through silent rock and unbounded space to Mapesu and freedom.

Once the antidote was administered, it was thrilling to hear the thundering bangs and thumps as the elephants slowly awoke and came to their feet. The huge containers shook and quivered with their colossal load.

elephants-relocation

Although it had been a taxing day and everyone was fatigued after what had been a herculean effort, all was forgotten as we stood in a reverential hush as these gentle behemoths slowly walked out of the truck and into their new home.

The landscape itself seemed to expand and welcome home these gentle hearts, and a sense of completeness pervaded the air. An essential puzzle piece had been restored.

elephants-relocated

Elephants are a keystone species and crucial to Africa’s forests and savannahs. Creating a sustainable elephant population will require a coordinated and multi-faceted effort. We all need to be committed to the belief that, through innovation and dedication, we can conquer what initially appears insurmountable.

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